# Schrader stove rebuild



## Jeff2009 (Sep 2, 2015)

I'm looking to remake the doors or make then seal better.  They are just a metal on metal seal now but the doors are starting to warp.  Ive thought about adding a channel on the stove to hold a rope gasket or remake the doors and put the gasket on the new doors.  Which do you guys think will be the easiest route?  If I did remake the doors what thickness plate should they be made out of?  Any ideas and suggestions would be appreciated. 



If more pictures are needed just say something and I'll try to get them.


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## Jeff2009 (Sep 2, 2015)

Any ideas guys.  I'll be looking to start this project next week.


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## bholler (Sep 2, 2015)

I personally wouldn't waste my time on a schrader.  I will say that plate steel usually warps you would have to weld angle on the sides for sure


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## Jeff2009 (Sep 2, 2015)

bholler said:


> I personally wouldn't waste my time on a schrader.  I will say that plate steel usually warps you would have to weld angle on the sides for sure



I would like to not waist my time either but it's kinda what I have.  I'm not far enough ahead on wood supply at this point and don't have the cash for a new stove this year.  I've been looking closely at new stoves and will likely buy one next year but I've still got to get through this one.  So that why I'm asking what the easiest way would be. I got through the end of last year by wedging a brick between the bottom of the door and the ash lip.  It worked fine but I'm not trusting it to make it another full year.


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## bholler (Sep 2, 2015)

Jeff2009 said:


> I would like to not waist my time either but it's kinda what I have. I'm not far enough ahead on wood supply at this point and don't have the cash for a new stove this year. I've been looking closely at new stoves and will likely buy one next year but I've still got to get through this one. So that why I'm asking what the easiest way would be. I got through the end of last year by wedging a brick between the bottom of the door and the ash lip. It worked fine but I'm not trusting it to make it another full year.


Id look for a used stove you should be able to find a used smoke dragon that would work better than that for a few hundred bucks.


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## Jeff2009 (Sep 2, 2015)

What would you suggest personally.  I finally got this one figured out last year.  Lol.


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## bholler (Sep 2, 2015)

Fishers are good stoves from that time period much better than that schrader.  I would look around and see what is available then check back.  Is that stove hooked to a liner?


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## Jeff2009 (Sep 2, 2015)

bholler said:


> Fishers are good stoves from that time period much better than that schrader.  I would look around and see what is available then check back.  Is that stove hooked to a liner?



Not much available locally. People want $700-1000 around here for a Fisher.  This one's hooked to a liner.  I don't mind using this one.  I've usually got around an 8 hour burn time.  As high as 10 and as low as 6. Just depends on outside temp.  That's why I don't mind fixing this one.


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## bholler (Sep 3, 2015)

Jeff2009 said:


> People want $700-1000 around here for a Fisher


Really that is insane.  $400 is generally the asking price for a decent old stove around here.  





Jeff2009 said:


> I've usually got around an 8 hour burn time. As high as 10 and as low as 6. Just depends on outside temp.


That is impressive with that stove.  What does the inside of your chimney look like though?


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## Jeff2009 (Sep 3, 2015)

bholler said:


> Really that is insane.  $400 is generally the asking price for a decent old stove around here.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I'm sure more stoves will be on the market when the weather changes but those are the prices the last few weeks.
My chimney is clean.  Light and dry after 3 months of 24/7 burning.


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## Jeff2009 (Sep 3, 2015)

Here's the cheapest one and it's 3 hours away.  It's crazy what people think these stoves are worth.  

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/for/5137343057.html


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## coaly (Sep 5, 2015)

$400 for that particular one is not bad. People ask that much for unlisted older models that should be half that. (in my opinion) That one is UL listed, has shields, and the screen is worth $100 alone. It has the Fireplace legs and was the first year the new style was available. It was modeled on the XL design from 1978 and became the more expensive model from 1980 up. Probably has a baffle as well.




That door was available black, or brass or nickel plated. Many have been painted over and should look like this;






	

		
			
		

		
	
  Refinished with Thermolux paint to copy the look - only wish it had the Fireplace Legs.

What are your doors made of? Check them with straight edge? Does it have a steel ridge sticking out to make contact in the door's groove? It should make contact in three places, on the stove front and one in the groove. If the doors are flat; Lay the stove on its back, clean the contact surface (wire wheel) and check contact. You can use bluing or thin grease to show transfer contact. Course grinding compound will make a light gray surface where it touches when lapped. This will show contact area. Continue until full contact is made. If they are warped beyond sealing, cement rope gasket to door. You should be able to tell if a piece of cardboard fits under the door and it still closes. You'll get a longer burn and see some creosote until you learn how much more air it needs.


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