# Maul swinging techniquie



## wg_bent (Mar 23, 2006)

Just  curious what you all feel is the best technique for swinging a maul.  Mine is a 6 lb (I think I need an 8 now especially with all the Elm I have).  Generally I drop the maul over my right shoulder, and swing.  With tougher peices I'll step back a 1/2 step and step into the swing also.  For the really tough, I'll start with the maul at about chest high, and get more of a round about swing that makes a full circle, but my accuracy goes down with that.  I've also tried a more centerline swing with the maul start position straight behind my back so both arms make almost an identical path.  This last seems the weakest swing, but is a bit easier on the right elbow.

Any other technique suggestions?


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## babalu87 (Mar 23, 2006)

Get an 8lb Collins axe
I have become alot more efficient with that axe and the shape of the handle is easier on my hands

I bring the maul straight back over my head and touch it to the small of my back then bring it up to about horizontal, then with all the anger of a rabid Wolverine I swing with great and furious anger upon the wicked beast all the while concentrating on the exact spot where I want the steel to unleash its power and exact my revenge.



I generally swing for the fences with the Red Oak I have to split


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## elkimmeg (Mar 23, 2006)

not that big a person, So inorder to get the power and distance. I have a slight inside out swing I drive with a slight draw using the overspin to gain added running distance , Got to get that monster titanium head club.  Woops wrong forum got confused with swing technique


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## carpniels (Mar 23, 2006)

Hi Babalu,

Do you really mean axe or did you plan to say Maul? I saw that Collins stuff (both 6#, 8# and different axes) at my local Ace hardware. Pretty cheap. (max $30).

I was thinking about getting the 8# maul to add to my collection of axes. Should be more useful than my 3# Fiskars maul.

Carpniels


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## martel (Mar 23, 2006)

all these sound good- the big thing I have change due to a past thread is I stopped using a chopping block. I am splitting everything on the ground now and it make a world of a difference with the increased velocity. I am considering sinking RR ties in the ground to make a 2x2' area at ground level for splitting. This will not only create a hard surface to keep all of force in the splitting verses going into the dirt (yes, i am not the 'physics' type)- and it will keep my maul from diggin up the dirt.

also, been using a 8# cheapo true value maul with a fiberglass handle. seems to work great.


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## babalu87 (Mar 23, 2006)

carpniels said:
			
		

> Hi Babalu,
> 
> Do you really mean axe or did you plan to say Maul? I saw that Collins stuff (both 6#, 8# and different axes) at my local Ace hardware. Pretty cheap. (max $30).
> 
> ...



I'll have to post a pic later, suprised but a quick search didnt net a good picture

Its head is a little wider than a regular maul and the handle is flatter than a standard maul handle

True Value calls it a Collins axe, sounds like what Ace has is what I have


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## Sandor (Mar 23, 2006)

I use an 8 lb maul.

With torn right rotator cuff, I cannot swing from behind my back.

I lift the thing so its directly over my head. Left hand in front of right hand. (I am right handed)

With elbows close together, I peer through that area between my forearms and whack away.

This technique evolved on its own, because its the least painfull to my shoulder.


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## NWfuel (Mar 23, 2006)

I use the 6lb collin wood handle. Hit it where it lays. Alternate from side to side. This means hit one on the left side then up over the head and back down hitting one on the right side. This is a art all of its own. I only do this with green Alder. This stuff splits just looking at it.
Thomas


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## saichele (Mar 24, 2006)

I use an 8 pounder, swing from left to right.  Right hand at base of maul, left hand slides down during swing.  Start with handle horizontal maul head behind back, up over left shoulder, then pull down and in a bit to drive head into log.  I'm right handed, BTW.

I definitely tend to 'swing for the fences' but that's mostly because I hate the results of a failed attempt - dislodging the maul from the log, maul bouncing (elm, anyone), or resetting the log onthe block.  One swing, one split.

Steve


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## wg_bent (Mar 24, 2006)

Steve said:
			
		

> I use an 8 pounder, swing from left to right.  Right hand at base of maul, left hand slides down during swing.  Start with handle horizontal maul head behind back, up over left shoulder, then pull down and in a bit to drive head into log.  I'm right handed, BTW.
> 
> I definitely tend to 'swing for the fences' but that's mostly because I hate the results of a failed attempt - dislodging the maul from the log, maul bouncing (elm, anyone), or resetting the log onthe block.  One swing, one split.
> 
> Steve



Elm is the bane of my existance Steve.  The good part is that I have access to a lot of dead elm, the bad part is that elm is mother natures cruel joke.  Hey, lets grow lots of trees, then give them a plague (Dutch elm disease) and kill them all so wood burners think they hit the lottery.  Then i'll make the wood impossible to split.  Then when they burn it, it will stick to the bottom of their stoves with coal like klinker thingies.   Ha Ha Ha.  suckers!!  Did I ever mention how much I hate elm?


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## yukiginger (Mar 24, 2006)

To me, speed of the maul head is what matters, so I keep the thing moving and try for hard acceleration on the downswing, of course.  For me, my method is far superior to raising straight over head, and back near your shoulder blades.  Here is what I do (I'm right handed): with my right hand near the end of the handle and maul hanging down just off the right of my right leg I begin a clocklike motion from right to left swinging to my left by twisting at the torso, pointing my right shoulder in straight at the round (and thus, my left shoulder back).  The maul is going to be swept up just slightly behind my left shoulder.  As the head gets waist high I grab the handle with my left hand, loosely, at mid-handle, continuing the swing to get the head just above mine.  At the top of the swing my wrist is almost touching the top of my head.  When the head is straight above my head I begin the downward stroke, accelerating as best I can through the strike.  My left hand slides as the maul comes down. 

I hope the description is clear enough.  I find this easier on the body and back.  It requires little bending.  I find myself rocking off my right foot a bit on the swing, but otherwise the stance stays strong.  Last year I hand split 6 cords myself this way, but in the fall I bought a splitter, so I won't be doing much maul-swinging again (I hope).  See this attached message below for an interesting technique.

MarkG




Here is a message posted over on the Arboristsite.com website, in the firewood and heating with wood forum.  Seems really interesting, though I've never tried it.  Posted by Mister Moe:


**********************
Sure - here's a splitting tip - my buddy taught me how to REALLY split with a maul some years ago.

I watched in amazement as he laid open a two foot diameter chunk of oak with three hits! Then he showed me the secret: just as the maul head is about to hit wood, twist the head so that it's actually at an angle. Two things will happen: the maul will not get stuck in the wood, it will just bounce off. Also, the force is not just directed perpendicular to the wood leaving only the shape of maul head to split the wood apart but rather, the maul head is entering the wood at an angle and the force is directed sideways - now not only is the maul head wedging the wood apart, but the sideways force is also working for you. If it's a larger piece, say larger than a foot diameter, don't try to split it all at once, hit it two or three times. You'll find you can split it anywhere you want with this technique but for demonstration, let's say you want to split in half: hit the chunk in the center but towards one side then hit towards the other side - both of these hits should not be full out hits, just half-hearted hits to prime the wood. Then, on your last hit, just HIT it in the center and the chunk will explode in half like you wouldn't believe. 

This technique does require some practice but once you get the idea, you'll be amazed at the efficiency of it. Now I can easily split two foot diameter sections with three hits. I have a splitter but I actually prefer to split by hand (I too need the exercise). If the chunk doesn't go after a few hits I'll just kick it aside for the splitter along with the really knotted pieces. Oh - one more thing - I find that maple and oak split best when green.

Hope this helps

Moe


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## Eric Johnson (Mar 24, 2006)

I'm continually amazed and relieved to learn that I'm not the only guy left on the planet who prefers to split his wood by hand.

I lift the maul head directly up over my head so that the wedge and my face are both basically facing the same direction. Then I simply pull straight down--hard. This allows you to aim much better, while getting enough speed to get the job done. I don't see what you accomplish by pulling the maul head from behind your back, up over your head and then down onto the block of wood. Any gain in speed you might attain will be more than offset by inaccuracy in where you hit the chunk, and extra effort required to move the maul head the extra distance.

Maybe if I split more wood I would have a different method, but after more than 30 years of trying different techniques, this is the one that works best for me. Also, a dull, blunt-edged maul is much better than a narrower, sharp one.


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## velvetfoot (Mar 24, 2006)

This is very timely for me since I will be doing it again soon.
I remember doing that wrist twist thing many years ago and that it worked.
I also remember that keeping your feet far apart was a good thing.


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## cbrodsky (Mar 25, 2006)

I use a combination of some of the ideas mentioned here - I start with the maul near my feet and take a full 270 degree swing with the maul to my side.  Just before I hit the wood, I make a slight twist and relax my grip.  Much like a good golf swing, you should be letting  the club (maul) head do all the work.  If you grip a golf club really hard, and you try to hit the ball hard, you find that it just doesn't work that well.  On the other hand, it is quite miraculous how a well coordinated relaxed swing can deliver incredible force and a great shot with no pain or effort.  I think the same principles apply to splitting wood - a long swing arc to build speed, and by the end (follow-through) make sure you're not choking down on the maul.  Otherwise your body's inertia interferes with the maul's growing momentum.  When you get the flow going, it's very satisfying and very efficient!

Funny thing is that I split wood a lot better than I hit golf balls...


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## G-rott (Mar 25, 2006)

> "Here is what I do (I'm right handed): with my right hand near the end of the handle and maul hanging down just off the right of my right leg I begin a clocklike motion from right to left swinging to my left by twisting at the torso, pointing my right shoulder in straight at the round (and thus, my left shoulder back).  The maul is going to be swept up just slightly behind my left shoulder.  As the head gets waist high I grab the handle with my left hand, loosely, at mid-handle, continuing the swing to get the head just above mine.  At the top of the swing my wrist is almost touching the top of my head.  When the head is straight above my head I begin the downward stroke, accelerating as best I can through the strike.  My left hand slides as the maul comes down."



Great discription Yukiginger, I'm also right handed but have the same swing but the handing is reversed.


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## BrotherBart (Mar 25, 2006)

Lots of ways to swing a maul and get to the same result. I have always found that little wrist flick at the point of contact to make a world of difference though.

These days my preferred splitting motion is to spread my feet apart about two feet, lean down, grab the start rope handle and pull. Splitter ususally starts on the first pull. If not, rinse and repeat.


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## wg_bent (Mar 25, 2006)

Eric Johnson said:
			
		

> I'm continually amazed and relieved to learn that I'm not the only guy left on the planet who prefers to split his wood by hand.
> 
> I lift the maul head directly up over my head so that the wedge and my face are both basically facing the same direction. Then I simply pull straight down--hard. This allows you to aim much better, while getting enough speed to get the job done. I don't see what you accomplish by pulling the maul head from behind your back, up over your head and then down onto the block of wood. Any gain in speed you might attain will be more than offset by inaccuracy in where you hit the chunk, and extra effort required to move the maul head the extra distance.
> 
> Maybe if I split more wood I would have a different method, but after more than 30 years of trying different techniques, this is the one that works best for me. Also, a dull, blunt-edged maul is much better than a narrower, sharp one.



I think I get more head speed with starting from behind my back, but I agree it's not as accurate, but for most swings it's good enough. Many times I swing just as you said Eric, if it's a peice of wood I know will split reasonably easy.  Just remember how much of what I split and burn is elm.  May of my hits do not even crack the wood, and  know I'm hitting it very hard. 

Hey Craig, any chance there's a way to up load some mpeg's somewhere to the site?  Be kinda cool to be able to show motion of splitting technique.  My digital can do mpeg's.  Perhaps a special permission would be needed for each upload from you?  (Just trying to keep the space and uploads of that kind of stuff to a min)


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## Eric Johnson (Mar 25, 2006)

I don't understand what you gain by swinging from behind your back. It seems to me it would take twice as much energy for little or no force advantage. Remember, you have to exert enough force to swing the maul in a big arc from behind your back up to where it's over your head, then pull down as it descends toward the block you're trying to split. When you do it my way, the only force you're exerting is on the downstroke. Getting the maul head up into the air is simply a matter of lifting it straight up.

By that measure (which I'm not saying is necessarily correct), the behind-the-back method:

1.) requires greater exertion
2.) yields less accuracy
3.) may or may not deliver more force

I like the Mpeg idea, by the way. I think we'd all learn something from watching the other guy split.


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## cbrodsky (Mar 25, 2006)

One advantage of a full swing is that by the time the maul is coming over your head, it is already moving quite fast and will continue to accelerate from that point rather than from a dead stop.  This in principle gives you more opportunity to hit with more momentum.

To beat the golf analogy to death, it would be like a golfer only taking a 1/4 swing back.

In fact, I do take 1/4 swings for smaller easier pieces of wood, and golfers take 1/4 swings for short chip shots - so both have their place


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## babalu87 (Mar 25, 2006)

I was thinking of making a short clip and posting it too.

I was going to get one of those shots of me splitting that 30" diameter Red Oak in half, with one swing...............NOT, some split in 6 some take upwards of twenty shots.

I feel that touching it to my back keeps all the muscles stretched out.
I really only accelerate once its above my head, sort of like swinging a golf club for me.

I over did it a bit today, those 500 foot walks with a full wheel barrow take their toll


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## wg_bent (Mar 26, 2006)

babalu87 said:
			
		

> I was thinking of making a short clip and posting it too.
> 
> I was going to get one of those shots of me splitting that 30" diameter Red Oak in half, with one swing...............NOT, some split in 6 some take upwards of twenty shots.
> 
> ...



Yeah, I hear ya Bruce.   The other day I split almost 1/2 a cord of elm and my forearms were killing me.


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## wg_bent (Mar 27, 2006)

o.k. so for the past day or so I've been trying a straight over the head technique.  Start with the maul directly behind me, and touching my butt, and just pull hard through the wood.  Eric is right (again) in that the increase in accuracy is much better.  repeated strikes are now almost 100% better, so that I can split even Elm in two shots most of the time.   Also much easier on the elbows. Thanks once again for the splitting technique tips Eric.


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## michaelthomas (Mar 28, 2006)

I place the round horizontally open the valve and watch as the precision cutting edge on my splitter pushes the round into 2 pieces, all while holding a frosty cold one in my non operating hand.  Much easier on the old rotator cuff.


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## wg_bent (Mar 28, 2006)

michaelthomas said:
			
		

> I place the round horizontally open the valve and watch as the precision cutting edge on my splitter pushes the round into 2 pieces, all while holding a frosty cold one in my non operating hand.  Much easier on the old rotator cuff.



So is your splitter powered through burning wood and steam power?  Or does it have a Hemi?    If this isn't a properly green and hearthnet energy policy approved device you will be labled and enemy of the state.  The beating with a wet wood pellet will begin immediately.


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## mtarbert (Mar 30, 2006)

Guys,
       Many years ago (30) I knew a man with only 1 arm who split all his winters supply of wood with an axe. The old guy would twist the handle just as the blade hit the surface and POW two pieces. So don't let those sore shoulders slow you down.
              Mike


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## got wood? (Apr 1, 2006)

on the stubborn pieces or when I'm starting a large round I'll give it a bit extra by stretching (arching and elongating) the back on the backswing and essentially squatting a bit right as the maul is about to strike the round...sort of a downward knee bend to add that extra bit of force...seems to work really well for me.

I've gotta try this handle twist method everyone is writing about!


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## DriftWood (Apr 7, 2006)

When I get a hold of easy splitting stuff I use a small 12 LB. Monster Maul.  I center the head on the edge I want to hit and in one motion toss the head straight up as hi as I can reach, straight up. Them gravity dose the rest straight down.  The big 16 lb Monster Maul is getting to heavy to lift.

 ...On BOX ELDER, ELM and a lot of the wood I pick up along the road and in the river.  I use wedges.   I can bury all five before I get out the chain saw.  I center the hammer head on wedge and in one motion toss the head straight up as hi as I can reach straight up. Them gravity dose the rest straight down.   It helps being 6'5" tall.  I use a Sears Craftsman 8lb hammer.  (Lifetime warrantee on broken handles and mashed heads, just clear tape the name on the handle so it doesn’t ware off).


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## fbelec (Apr 7, 2006)

great reading guys. a couple of things to try now. i use a 12 pound fiberglassed handle maul and swing over my head. but i have to try some of these other techniques cause the slipped disk in the back only lets me do a certain amount before it tells me go sit down. one thing to remember that i find a bit strange and only because it has to do with how the body works and you almost have no control over it and that is when your swinging like your going to go thru the chopping block keep your eye on exactly where you want to hit, if you move your eye for a split second you'll miss that spot. and then it does pay to have your feet a mile apart :bug:


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## pinefarm (Apr 7, 2006)

I split my wood right where it fell. I don't use a chopping block. By splitting where it fell, I leave all the bark etc. in the woods plus any unsplittable chunks. People say that frozen wood splits easier than nonfrozen. They also say you should split from the top down on chunks. I never found either of these things to be true. I do know that often you can split a tough chunk by simply turning it over. I slso always work on the end away from any knots etc. The wedging effect seems to help. I see no difference in splitting dead or live wood. The one true statement I can make is that some chunks split easier than other chunks even though they look identical.  Dave Johnson


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## Corie (Apr 7, 2006)

I think I might take a video next week of myself swining a maul, since it's almost impossible to describe my technique.  

That, and it will give me an excuse to split all of the wood I cut up with my NEW CHAINSAW


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## onno (Apr 30, 2006)

I'm feel a bit sad, reading about all of these splitting techniques, I split too much wood last year, that I still have a two year supply after this warm winter. I'm figuring out ways to burn more wood.

I find that it is speed, not force, that does the trick, so most of my power is spent by the time the maul is over my head. At that point, I merely pull on  the handle as it goes down. Different muscles are involved in lifting the ax up in front of you than from behind. I like going from behind because it seems less work for a greater effect. Its more like swinging than lifting. Accuracy is not a problem. 

By the end of the day, I am not as powerful as I was at the beginning of the day, but that only shows itself when there are multiple knots in the wood. Otherwise, I make sure I hit close to the edge, and try to use the right amount of force that the two parts are still standing, with the aim to spit the log into four pieces without having to pick them back up.


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