# How many BTU"S



## micahr (Jan 3, 2009)

Our 750 sf house with vaulted cielings and poor insulation has a Dovre freestanding gas heater.  It takes hours to heat the place up and it never gets toasty, just not freezing like outside.  

So we want to upgrade.  Here's the thing though.  I beleive the model is a DV400, rated with a max BTU output of 30,000.  We've been to three retailers and all of the models they have shown us are rated the same.  I get the feeling the Dovre is an off brand piece of junk, but I dont wanna spend the money on a new stove to be stuck in the same situation.  Any advice?


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## DAKSY (Jan 3, 2009)

Hey, micahr,

Our 750 sf house with vaulted cielings and poor insulation 

Add ceiling fans in the higher areas & MORE INSULATION. If you HAVE the fans & use them & STILL can't get warm you need MORE INSULATION!

I beleive the model is a DV400, rated with a max BTU output of 30,000.

You sure that's not the INPUT rating? If it is the IR, then there are Jotul, Regency & Hearthstone DV units (that I know of) that have higher BTU input, but will still only get about 30K output based on their efficiency. Even with a very poorly insulated home, you should be able too adequately heat it with 45 BTU/sf,
so you need right around the high side of 30K (32.5K)
If you DV400 is rated at 30K INPUT & is 75% efficient, the output is 22.5K, much less than you need...
HTH


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## micahr (Jan 3, 2009)

Thanks Daksy,

Insulation is in the works for the underfloor, that'll be a project unto itself.  I'd love to get it in the roof, but the framing is not configured for it.  Our stagered vaulted cieling dives into clearstory windows just at the plane of the roof, if I add 4-5 inches for riged insullation Ill bury the windows.   

Anyway, it sounds like we need a unit with a BTU input over 38,000 for now.


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## Wet1 (Jan 4, 2009)

Rather than replacing your heater with a larger one, you might want to consider just adding another (which would double your output).  This way you could use the second as needed and also locate the second one in another location which would help even out the temps around the house.

Also, get a big ceiling fan if you don't already have one!


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## micahr (Jan 4, 2009)

Thanks Wet1,

Though we've settled for a jotul GF 600 DV II Firelight with a BTU input of 40,000 and the add on blower.  We've got a ceiling fan.  Hopefully I can get the underfloor insulation tackled before it comes in.  We're sittin on a post and pier foundation with 2x t&g;subfloor over 4x6 girders 4' OC.  For that Im gonna wanna use rigid insulation, fiberglass bats will just probably not hold up being semi exposed.  Plus, with the rigid I can seal the edges to the joists with spray foam, but maybe some kind of ventilation may be a good idea, Im still brainstorming on that one.  Any advice on the insulation, shouldn't have any condinsation issues if it is sealed and the floor framin is within the "conditioned space."  I like the idea of an air barrier between us and the cold air below.


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## RedRanger (Jan 4, 2009)

JUst gonna add that we have a propane DV insert upstairs and a newer epa wood insert downstairs.

There is no comparision regards the heat output.  what it feels like, how it warms you.??

Wood --   Hands Down!!


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## Fire Bug (Jan 5, 2009)

sonnyinbc said:
			
		

> JUst gonna add that we have a propane DV insert upstairs and a newer epa wood insert downstairs.
> 
> There is no comparision regards the heat output.  what it feels like, how it warms you.??
> 
> Wood --   Hands Down!!



Hi Sonny,
 I have to agree with you on the heat output and how the wood heat warms you, but when it comes to convience,safety, and less hastle, "Gas--Hands Down"
John


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