# country hearth 2000 wood stove problems



## mamjam2004 (Mar 4, 2016)

We bought a country hearth 2000 from tractor supply 2 weeks ago. From the get go we have had nothing but problems trying to get it to burn. We even have a temporary outside air intake in place. This hasn't helped at all. Any suggestions on how to correct this problem? Any help would be much appreciated. I have 3 videos but I'm not sure how to post them. Thanks in advance for any help.


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## embers aplenty (Mar 4, 2016)

Sorry to hear that. I had one of those stoves in my garage for a while. Other then it being a bit small for my drafty garage, it burned fine. Do you have good draft through your chimney? How about your wood, has it been cut, split, and stacked up off the ground and top covered for at least a year?

More times then not, it ends up being a fuel "wood" problem. You might need to tell us more about your set up and what is going on. Are you giving it full air and leaving the door cracked a few minutes at startup? If you have good seasoned wood and good draft, she oughta burn good.


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## bholler (Mar 4, 2016)

Yeah we need a whole lot more info to be able to help you at all.  Type size and height of the chimney type and configuration of the stove pipe.  Type size and moisture content of wood or if you don't know that how long has it been cut split and covered?


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## Auzzie Gumtree (Mar 5, 2016)

i also had this stove - and if anything it had a tendency to run away with heat if you weren't careful. My monies on wet wood any takers?


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## kennyp2339 (Mar 5, 2016)

I had the bigger brother 2500 for a couple seasons, the stove was a pretty good heater, was a decent price because of budget, but literally fell apart on me and did not last, I learned a very valuable lesson, never buy something as vital as a wood stove when its made in China.
To the OP, please read and re-read your manual, make sure you have a minimum 6" flue / chimney height of 12ft (ideally 15ft minimum for best performance) Make sure the baffle boards are slid as far back into the  stove as possible, make sure the door gasket is in place, when lighting the stove make sure the air control is pulled out as far as possible.
Use dry wood only, buy a moisture meter and measure the moisture on a fresh split, you should have readings of 20% or lower, anything higher will only give you problems with heavy smoke, no heat, no flames.
Plan on buying a better stove in the near future, the factory door gasket is one of a kind, 1/2" to small 5/8" to big (if I remember correctly) the screws that hold the air tubes in place will eventually strip out and break, the air tubes will eventually start to corrode, the baffle board will start to crumble from the center out. I mention this because to do a proper cleaning you have to remove the air reburn tubes and remove the baffle board, plan on getting a good drill bit and good drill to retap screw holes for the air tubes.


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## bholler (Mar 5, 2016)

kennyp2339 said:


> plan on getting a good drill bit and good drill to retap screw holes for the air tubes.


Yeah i have had to do quite a few of them.  Luckily the metal is pretty soft.


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## Helen's Hint (Jan 15, 2018)

I have the Country Hearth 2000. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS PRODUCT/STOVE ! Do not buy it unless it's for a small work room or very small tightly sealed garage.The blower is almost useless.Doesn't hold any heat. Not good for any home use. A waste of money!.  It is meant for a small space and there is barely any heat from this stove. very disapointed. Junk.


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## bholler (Jan 15, 2018)

Helen's Hint said:


> I have the Country Hearth 2000. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS PRODUCT/STOVE ! Do not buy it unless it's for a small work room or very small tightly sealed garage.The blower is almost useless.Doesn't hold any heat. Not good for any home use. A waste of money!.  It is meant for a small space and there is barely any heat from this stove. very disapointed. Junk.


What space are you trying to heat?  What type size and height chimney do you have?  What species and moisture content is the wood you are burning?  How are you running the stove?  Beleive me i am not a fan of us stove company products but heat output usually is not an issue with these stoves.  Durability is the problem


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## Helen's Hint (Jan 16, 2018)

Hello.The space is actually the whole house. It's a two-story, older(100 yrs old) cedar shake colonial. The woodstove was purchased approx 3 years ago at a Tractor Supply by my neighbor for me.Honestly I thought he had better judgment and knowledge. The chimney is relatively new. 4- 5 years old. Originally there was a very good old cast iron stove that was in need of repair. When working properly was great for heating the entire house. Should have held on to that one. I burn mixed hardwoods that are always seasoned. Ash, Red oak, maple. Local seasoned wood. The woodstve and chimney is cleaned every year at the start of the season.


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## redktmrider (Jan 16, 2018)

Helen's Hint said:


> I burn mixed hardwoods that are always seasoned



What is your definition of seasoned wood? EPA certified stoves need wood with 20% moisture or less, with most hardwoods this requires more than 1 year of the wood being cut, split and stacked outside. Oak often requires 2 years or more to reach this moisture content. A good place to start is to purchase a couple pack of compressed sawdust logs (I believe they are Redstone or Ecobricks at TSC) an give them a try by following the directions on the package. They can be hard to start but once burning will burn well and let you know if its the stove or the fuel.

 Also purchase a wood moisture meter. Bring a piece of wood inside for 24 hours, split it, and check the freshly exposed surface with the meter. Properly seasoned wood will be 20% or less.


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## Helen's Hint (Jan 16, 2018)

Thank s for your response. It's *not the wood*. The people and friends I deal with are in the business of selling seasoned wood and I'm pretty picky. The red oak was seasoned for more than 2 years as well. The problem is this woodstove.


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## redktmrider (Jan 16, 2018)

Helen's Hint said:


> The problem is this woodstove.



The next place I would look is to read the manual (if you have one) carefully and make sure you meet the minimum chimney requirements. If you don't have the manual it is available online at http://www.usstove.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=72_76 .
How high is your chimney, does it have any offsets?


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## bholler (Jan 16, 2018)

Helen's Hint said:


> Thank s for your response. It's *not the wood*. The people and friends I deal with are in the business of selling seasoned wood and I'm pretty picky. The red oak was seasoned for more than 2 years as well. The problem is this woodstove.


Ok what exactly is going on with the stove?  Like i said these are not great stoves but the issues are not with heatoutput.  We are willing to help you get it working correctly.  But we need to have more info about how you are running the stove and about how it is set up.  If you want it to work right we can help.  If you just want to complain about the stove let us know that and we wont waste our time.


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## Woody Stover (Jan 16, 2018)

bholler said:


> these are not great stoves but the issues are not with heatoutput.


Yeah but heating a two-story, century-old house might be a struggle for that stove. The old "cast iron" stove they had maybe heated it, loading often enough, or maybe had a bigger box..


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## bholler (Jan 16, 2018)

Woody Stover said:


> Yeah but heating a two-story, century-old house might be a struggle for that stove. The old "cast iron" stove they had maybe heated it, loading often enough, or maybe had a bigger box..


Very true


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## HomeinPA (Jan 16, 2018)

Wow...color me confused. I see the OP was from March 2016....he never answered anybody and then someone finds the thread and jump starts the conversation!  It's late and I'm tired from shoveling snow. I'm easily confused.


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## Woody Stover (Jan 17, 2018)

HomeinPA said:


> Wow...color me confused. I see the OP was from March 2016....he never answered anybody and then someone finds the thread and jump starts the conversation!  It's late and I'm tired from shoveling snow. I'm easily confused.


Helen's Hint probably found this thread when searching the forum for her(?) stove, and is obviously not happy with the heat output. She thinks her wood is dry, but won't know for sure without, as redktmrider said, getting some of her larger splits to room temp, re-splitting, and testing on a freshly exposed face with a moisture meter ($14 at Harbor Freight.) She may have been getting away with burning marginally dry wood in the old cast iron smoke-blower stove, but it ain't gonna fly in a modern stove that relies on re-burning the smoke to produce heat. My cat stove, with wood that was around 20% or slightly over, would only get to about 450 on the stove top, over the cat. With the 16-17% wood I'm now burning, that spot on the stove top will go 600+. Heat output loss might not be quite as bad with her tube stove, but it will still make a difference.
@Helen's Hint, are you getting big secondaries shortly after you load the stove?


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## Helen's Hint (Jan 20, 2018)

mamjam2004 said:


> We bought a country hearth 2000 from tractor supply 2 weeks ago. From the get go we have had nothing but problems trying to get it to burn. We even have a temporary outside air intake in place. This hasn't helped at all. Any suggestions on how to correct this problem? Any help would be much appreciated. I have 3 videos but I'm not sure how to post them. Thanks in advance for any help.


Take it back immediately and do not replace it with another It only has a 30-day warranty which is equal to nothing.Get something substantial. there has been nothing but problems and insufficient heat output with this stove. i called TractorSupply and they asked me if i had read the reviews beforehand? I had not. As I said this is not a good woodstove for any home or anyone. Take it back ASAP.


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## Helen's Hint (Jan 20, 2018)

Woody Stover said:


> Helen's Hint probably found this thread when searching the forum for her(?) stove, and is obviously not happy with the heat output. She thinks her wood is dry, but won't know for sure without, as redktmrider said, getting some of her larger splits to room temp, re-splitting, and testing on a freshly exposed face with a moisture meter ($14 at Harbor Freight.) She may have been getting away with burning marginally dry wood in the old cast iron smoke-blower stove, but it ain't gonna fly in a modern stove that relies on re-burning the smoke to produce heat. My cat stove, with wood that was around 20% or slightly over, would only get to about 450 on the stove top, over the cat. With the 16-17% wood I'm now burning, that spot on the stove top will go 600+. Heat output loss might not be quite as bad with her tube stove, but it will still make a difference.
> @Helen's Hint, are you getting big secondaries shortly after you load the stove?[/QU
> The firewood that I've been using is seasoned and this problem is truly with this particular woodstovestove.


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## Helen's Hint (Jan 20, 2018)

bholler said:


> Ok what exactly is going on with the stove?  Like i said these are not great stoves but the issues are not with heatoutput.  We are willing to help you get it working correctly.  But we need to have more info about how you are running the stove and about how it is set up.  If you want it to work right we can help.  If you just want to complain about the stove let us know that and we wont waste our time.


Thank you. It could be that the seals need replacing as well. The handle is loose. The chimney is new. The hookup and placement, well it's all spot on according to code.


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## HomeinPA (Jan 20, 2018)

I'm out....


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## Helen's Hint (Jan 20, 2018)

bholler said:


> Very true


The old cast iron one was a little larger and held the heat much better. This one just doesn't radiate out much heat or hold it for very long.


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## bholler (Jan 20, 2018)

Helen's Hint said:


> The old cast iron one was a little larger and held the heat much better. This one just doesn't radiate out much heat or hold it for very long.


How are you running the stove?  What temps are you running at on the stove top and the pipe?  How far and when are you shutting it back?


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## bholler (Jan 20, 2018)

Helen's Hint said:


> Thank you. It could be that the seals need replacing as well. The handle is loose. The chimney is new. The hookup and placement, well it's all spot on according to code.


It may be to code but that does not mean it is the proper height size and type for your stove.


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## blacktail (Jan 20, 2018)

In summary...
The house size is unknown.
The chimney system is unknown.
The wood moisture content is unknown.
The operation of the stove is unknown.
The stove doesn't heat.


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## Helen's Hint (Jan 21, 2018)

bholler said:


> How are you running the stove?  What temps are you running at on the stove top and the pipe?  How far and when are you shutting it back?


I don't know the temperatures that it's running at or the any of the particulars like that. I start it up, adjust the damper after it's going for a little while and that's it. I just think that it's( this stove, Country hearth 20000) not adequate for this house. I appreciate your questions and replies. Thanks very much.


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## Helen's Hint (Jan 21, 2018)

blacktail said:


> In summary...
> The house size is unknown.
> The chimney system is unknown.
> The wood moisture content is unknown.
> ...


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## Helen's Hint (Jan 21, 2018)

The house is about 2500 sq. ft.
Chimney size??  is a completely new one which works great.
The wood is mixed( oak, ash, mulberry in there too) seasoned hardwoods with various moisture contents I suppose. Some seasoned more than others. 
I appreciate your feedback. Thank you.


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## bholler (Jan 21, 2018)

Helen's Hint said:


> I don't know the temperatures that it's running at or the any of the particulars like that. I start it up, adjust the damper after it's going for a little while and that's it. I just think that it's( this stove, Country hearth 20000) not adequate for this house. I appreciate your questions and replies. Thanks very much.


Well you obviously dont want any help so i am out as well.


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## stovelark (Jan 21, 2018)

Helen, what the folks are trying to get is about the information you're not giving them.  The chimney (new or older) size is Important because it needs to be the right size for proper drafting.  Ideally, it would be 6 inches, the same output size of your stove's flue outlet.  If the chimney is larger (anything more than an 8 x 8), sufficient draft might not be developed by the chimney so that the stove will burn properly.  The chimney drives the stove, not vice versa.  If you don't have a stove top thermometer to let you know what the stove top temps are, its hard to say if you are adjusting the air control correctly or again, the chimney may not be drafting well enough so stove top temp can develop properly.  Ideally, you want to adjust stove top temp to somewhere between 350-700 degrees stove top temp, where its comfortable for you.  Which brings us to fuel, if the fuel isn't dry enough, it too will not allow the stove temp to get to where you need to be.  Finally, I looked that stove up, its about 1.85 cuft in the firebox, enough to heat adequately around 1200-1400 sqft.  Steel stoves such as yours are usually easy to operate and use, but it still requires certain conditions be met. That's if your house holds heat reasonably and we have normal winter temps.  The cold we've experienced this past couple of weeks, you need to cut that in half for square footage.  People are trying to help, I hope this does.....


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## manooti (Sep 4, 2018)

I’m sorry guys I know it’s an old post but I’m only replying because,
1) don’t want misinformation
2) it’s almost always user error
3) was looking up my stove specs 

I have this stove. Only problem I get is it’s way too hot. House 2400 square feet. Maybe more after reassessment.

Where stove is installed highest temp was 98 degrees. Had to open windows. Damp it down. Stove top about 700ish. Don’t remember. 

6 inch pipe, up and outside through wall. 2 elbows. 18-21 feet vertical triple wall. 

I’m actually looking for something smaller now because can’t spread the heat throughout the house so just want to have a nice small stove just for that area. 

It ain’t the greatest stove out there but it works.


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## bholler (Sep 4, 2018)

manooti said:


> I’m sorry guys I know it’s an old post but I’m only replying because,
> 1) don’t want misinformation
> 2) it’s almost always user error
> 3) was looking up my stove specs
> ...


That is what i have heard from others about these stoves


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## kennyp2339 (Sep 4, 2018)

Never had an issue with heat output, just reliability issues.


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## TwoPenny (Dec 1, 2018)

I know this is an old thread,  but I stumbled across it while trying to troubleshoot the problems I'm having with this stove and I'm hoping maybe someone can help me out. 

I've had this stove for about a month. Everything is brand new and installed according to spec. My house is 1920sq ft. The stove is installed in my kitchen. Top of stove to ceiling is approx. 5ft. From there it goes through an upstairs room, where there is a 3 ft. section at a 15°offset. Probably about 6ft of pipe through that room. From there it goes straight up through the roof. The length of pipe above the roof is about 11.5 ft (to be safely clear of another section of roof with a steep pitch.) To be honest, I don't know much about wood yet, but I've had 2 different loads delivered which I was told was fully seasoned and all hardwood. I have burned from both batches and it all ignites within 90 seconds, no popping or hissing. I don't have a moisture meter yet. I made sure the baffle board is positioned correctly.

I struggle to keep this stove lit. No matter how strong the flame gets with the damper wide open, it wants to die when I push the damper in a little. When it does stay lit, it is almost impossible to get up to temperature. The warmest my kitchen gets is mid 60's and that's only if I'm home to babysit the darn thing. It takes serious effort and a little help from Jesus. Most of the time my kitchen is in the 50's with the rest of the house being unbearably cold. I hope I've provided enough info that someone can suggest some ideas.


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## kennyp2339 (Dec 1, 2018)

TwoPenny said:


> I know this is an old thread,  but I stumbled across it while trying to troubleshoot the problems I'm having with this stove and I'm hoping maybe someone can help me out.
> 
> I've had this stove for about a month. Everything is brand new and installed according to spec. My house is 1920sq ft. The stove is installed in my kitchen. Top of stove to ceiling is approx. 5ft. From there it goes through an upstairs room, where there is a 3 ft. section at a 15°offset. Probably about 6ft of pipe through that room. From there it goes straight up through the roof. The length of pipe above the roof is about 11.5 ft (to be safely clear of another section of roof with a steep pitch.) To be honest, I don't know much about wood yet, but I've had 2 different loads delivered which I was told was fully seasoned and all hardwood. I have burned from both batches and it all ignites within 90 seconds, no popping or hissing. I don't have a moisture meter yet. I made sure the baffle board is positioned correctly.
> 
> I struggle to keep this stove lit. No matter how strong the flame gets with the damper wide open, it wants to die when I push the damper in a little. When it does stay lit, it is almost impossible to get up to temperature. The warmest my kitchen gets is mid 60's and that's only if I'm home to babysit the darn thing. It takes serious effort and a little help from Jesus. Most of the time my kitchen is in the 50's with the rest of the house being unbearably cold. I hope I've provided enough info that someone can suggest some ideas.


Im willing to bet all the tea in china that's its your wood, the stove performance wise was a great heater, nothing wrong in that aspect, you also seem to have a lot of chimney  - 5ft in stove room, 6ft in the attic, and another 15ft outside so draft shouldn't be an issue. Im guessing that you bought this stove at TSC, if so stop back and pick up a few bundles of the redstone compressed wood bricks, lit a kindling fire and then place the bricks on top, let them catch then start turning the air down in quarter increments until you get lazy flames, also learn that finding a truly seasoned wood seller is like finding a needle in a hay stack.


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## Woody Stover (Dec 1, 2018)

kennyp2339 said:


> finding a truly seasoned wood seller is like finding a needle in a hay stack.





TwoPenny said:


> it all ignites within 90 seconds, no popping or hissing.


It might not hiss within 90 seconds. Have you opened the door after the wood has been burning ten minutes or more, after loading on a decent coal bed? If it's hissing or if you see moisture on the ends of the splits, it's not dry.


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## TwoPenny (Dec 1, 2018)

kennyp2339 said:


> Im willing to bet all the tea in china that's its your wood, the stove performance wise was a great heater, nothing wrong in that aspect, you also seem to have a lot of chimney  - 5ft in stove room, 6ft in the attic, and another 15ft outside so draft shouldn't be an issue. Im guessing that you bought this stove at TSC, if so stop back and pick up a few bundles of the redstone compressed wood bricks, lit a kindling fire and then place the bricks on top, let them catch then start turning the air down in quarter increments until you get lazy flames, also learn that finding a truly seasoned wood seller is like finding a needle in a hay stack.


Thanks for the quick response! I will try some different wood and see if that makes a difference. I have been experimenting with loading the wood in the stove different ways and am noticing that some ways work better than others. Thanks for the tip!


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## TwoPenny (Dec 1, 2018)

Woody Stover said:


> It might not hiss within 90 seconds. Have you opened the door after the wood has been burning ten minutes or more, after loading on a decent coal bed? If it's hissing or if you see moisture on the ends of the splits, it's not dry.


I have opened the door during different stages of the burn and have not at any point seen or heard signs of moisture. Not saying that the wood isn't the problem though.  It sounds like my next step is to try a different batch of wood and see what happens. Thanks!


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## thoner7 (Feb 15, 2019)

So I have this same stove, the country hearth 2000.  I also have really struggled to get heat out of it. I've also rarely got it into the secondary burn stage and if I do, it lasts five minutes or less.  The firebox must be really insulated as it has a 12" distance to combustables.  My hearth walls only get to like 110 degrees after a long burn

I've been running the stove for 6 hours today and my thermostat still reads the 70 degrees we set it at.  It is a huge open space but still.  There's no way I could heat my house in a power outage and cold temps --it was sunny mid 30s today. 

I have a 14 foot of double wall pipe inside with a slight offset using two 45s, then another 9 foot of class A pipe out the roof. 

My draft seems really strong and I haven't notice too much change if I open a window (my house is pretty air tight). But is there any way to measure draft?

My wood was dried and indoors for many years but since I've moved it hasn't been covered, so it's been rained on and snowed on.  But I've been leaving on my porch t dry out before I burn it (nothing goes in visibly wet).  My manual has a test procedure to verify if the wood is dry enough, and the wood passes easily. 

  I did buy some kiln dried wood to try, but I'd like some advice on the whole re-burn tubes thingy.  How hot does the stove have to get? Without a buge coal bed I can't get the top much over 500 at the hottest spot.  Is that enough to dial down into the re-burn phase?  Like I said I can't get it to work.  And because the stove must be insulated and doesn't put out much heat I must be losing heat straight up the chimney right.??  What should my Lazer gun read on double wall pipe?

Ugh so many questions.


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## kennyp2339 (Feb 16, 2019)

thoner7 said:


> Ugh so many questions.


I ran the big brother to this stove (2500) , check your draft with a manometer, if above .07" h2o then your pulling way to strong and can benefit with a key damper to slow things down.
The 2500 pumped out some serious heat, I had it originally upstairs in my living room but I had to move it to the basement because it was just to much heat. When I moved it into the basement my chimney run was longer and I suddenly suffered with lots of coaling, shorter burn times, generally poor performance. At that time I already had ordered my BK so I never really tinkered with it, but with the bk I was running to high of a draft and added a key damper which brought things under control and improved my performance.


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## Seasoned Oak (Feb 16, 2019)

For a cheap stove ($399) it works fine in a small space. I have this stove in less than 1000 SF space and other than not being able to get a lot of wood in it,it burns just fine. Actually quite well. Doesnt seem to need alot of draft as i have it piped into a 12"flue in a masonry chimney.


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## thoner7 (Feb 16, 2019)

kennyp2339 said:


> I ran the big brother to this stove (2500) , check your draft with a manometer, if above .07" h2o then your pulling way to strong and can benefit with a key damper to slow things down.
> The 2500 pumped out some serious heat, I had it originally upstairs in my living room but I had to move it to the basement because it was just to much heat. When I moved it into the basement my chimney run was longer and I suddenly suffered with lots of coaling, shorter burn times, generally poor performance. At that time I already had ordered my BK so I never really tinkered with it, but with the bk I was running to high of a draft and added a key damper which brought things under control and improved my performance.



So what you saying is... When you moved it to your basement you got more draft?? And that put out less heat??

How exactly would one hook a manometer up to a stove ?? Drill a hole in the stove pipe?  I'd rather not do that.... And wood you test it while the fire is going or coaled (see what I did there? haha)


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## Seasoned Oak (Feb 16, 2019)

I find my stoves put out more heat when the draft is better. A strong draft allows me to cut the air adjustment back farther.


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## thoner7 (Feb 16, 2019)

I would have thought the same thing regarding the draft.


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## yousmellsmoke? (Feb 17, 2019)

thoner7 said:


> So I have this same stove, the country hearth 2000.  I also have really struggled to get heat out of it. I've also rarely got it into the secondary burn stage and if I do, it lasts five minutes or less.  The firebox must be really insulated as it has a 12" distance to combustables.  My hearth walls only get to like 110 degrees after a long burn........."/QUOTE]
> 
> I have the 2000 and it took me a while to learn that it needs to be warmed up for a good hour or two before it will get hot enough to burn wood and get the afterburners to kick in. Then it gets very hot. I can heat our 1700 sq feet with it to about 70-72 degrees, when it's 17 or so outside. I can't tell you if it can handle more than that, because it rarely gets much colder here. I had a stove top thermometer tonight read about 520 degrees F, so it can get there, but it takes a lot to warm it up. I was having draw trouble a couple of months ago, really bad with smoke backing up into the home. Almost gave up on it. But, I tried different techniques (from this forum and youtube) to both warm up the firebox and warm up the flue to get draw going. It works pretty well once it gets going.
> I wanted to let you know that it wasn't just yours. I like mine, but it is fussy.


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## Seasoned Oak (Feb 17, 2019)

thoner7 said:


> So I have this same stove, the country hearth 2000.  I also have really struggled to get heat out of it. I've also rarely got it into the secondary burn stage and if I do, it lasts five minutes or less.  The firebox must be really insulated as it has a 12" distance to combustables.  My hearth walls only get to like 110 degrees after a long burn
> I've been running the stove for 6 hours today and my thermostat still reads the 70 degrees we set it at.  It is a huge open space but still.  There's no way I could heat my house in a power outage and cold temps --it was sunny mid 30s today.
> .


 This is the wrong stove for a "HUGE open space" as per your post. Its a 2CU ft small stove for a small place. That said MY Country Hearth 2000 screams heat out of a just a few pieces of wood. The stove top temps go right to 600+ secondaries blazing the whole time. Either you have a wet wood problem or there is something off(wrong) with your stove. I have it in a 14 x 20 room and it doesnt have any trouble heating that and adjoining rooms. Also if you cant heat the space with a 500 degree stove the stove is too small for the space.


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## thoner7 (Feb 18, 2019)

Seasoned Oak said:


> This is the wrong stove for a "HUGE open space" as per your post. Its a 2CU ft small stove for a small place. That said MY Country Hearth 2000 screams heat out of a just a few pieces of wood. The stove top temps go right to 600+ secondaries blazing the whole time. Either you have a wet wood problem or there is something off(wrong) with your stove. I have it in a 14 x 20 room and it doesnt have any trouble heating that and adjoining rooms. Also if you cant heat the space with a 500 degree stove the stove is too small for the space.


Well the stoves rated for 2000 SF and 89,000 BTUs.  My houses heat loss is 55,000 btu at -9 degrees.   So at Max heat output it should be plenty big enough.

I have only gotten it to 600+ one or two times when it's really loaded up with smaller pieces of wood, like hard wood scraps from my shop.  Getting to 500 is tough too and once the wood burns down a bit it's under 500.  The sides of the stove are lower than that.


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## Seasoned Oak (Feb 18, 2019)

thoner7 said:


> Well the stoves rated for 2000 SF and 89,000 BTUs.  My houses heat loss is 55,000 btu at -9 degrees.   So at Max heat output it should be plenty big enough.
> I have only gotten it to 600+ one or two times when it's really loaded up with smaller pieces of wood, like hard wood scraps from my shop.  Getting to 500 is tough too and once the wood burns down a bit it's under 500.  The sides of the stove are lower than that.


I do believe those ratings are too high ,simply for the size of the firebox alone. Any 2Cu ft firebox will have trouble heating much more than 1000SF without frequent reloading and running maxed out unless the space is very well insulated.IMO. I would rate this stove at no more than 1200SF stove. The 89000 BTUs is also very exaggerated and much more than you could expect from such a small stove.  My much larger Harman TL-300 puts out twice as much heat as my CH 2000 and is rated much lower BTU wise. Those ratings are very misleading. You most likely need a 3cu ft capacity stove or more  for the space your trying to heat. Dont go by the BTU rating,in most cases its all over the place,especially on the cheap stoves.


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## begreen (Feb 18, 2019)

Yes, marketing, not reality. They are maximum ratings, not steady state output. Technically not a lie, but there is a big difference heating 2000 sq ft in North Carolina vs Vermont.


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## Seasoned Oak (Feb 18, 2019)

begreen said:


> Yes, marketing, not reality. They are maximum ratings, not steady state output. Technically not a lie, but there is a big difference heating 2000 sq ft in North Carolina vs Vermont.


Thats true and also a big difference in an un- insulated or poorly insulated and a well insulated home. My harman TL-300 is listed at a paltry 34000 BTUs and that thing is a heat monster.  Would take at least 2 of the CH 2000 stoves to equal the heat output of the Harman. BTU ratings are useless.


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## maple1 (Feb 18, 2019)

This is quite the yo-yo thread. 

Enjoying the info though....


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## thoner7 (Feb 23, 2019)

How stupid is that.  Why rate the thing for 89k btu if it's not? What rate it for 2000sf if it can't even remotely handle that??  What a crock.  Waste of $650 bucks.


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## Seasoned Oak (Feb 23, 2019)

thoner7 said:


> How stupid is that.  Why rate the thing for 89k btu if it's not? What rate it for 2000sf if it can't even remotely handle that??  What a crock.  Waste of $650 bucks.


The  CH  2000 could easily handle 2000SF of house in many parts of the country but not the most northern states. Also even in the north if the house is relatively well insulated and tightly constructed. Too many variables to use these ratings to size a stove. As i said before firebox size is a better indicator of stove capacity and 2Cu ft is a small stove. But yes 89000 BTUs is pure marketing hype.   $650 is a lot for this stove ,i paid $399 at TSC.


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## thoner7 (Feb 24, 2019)

Ok I'm really getting upset with this stove.  I'm using kiln dried wood and it's very windy tonight, so my draft is extra strong.  And unless I leave it WIDE open, I can't get the sides much over 350.  Only one corner of the top gets over 500, and I'm chewing throw wood.  This stove just doesn't get hot. Like sitting two feet from it and it's barely noticeable. 

The ONLY other thing I can think of trying is to use very small pieces of wood instead of the normal sized pieces


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## bholler (Feb 24, 2019)

thoner7 said:


> Ok I'm really getting upset with this stove.  I'm using kiln dried wood and it's very windy tonight, so my draft is extra strong.  And unless I leave it WIDE open, I can't get the sides much over 350.  Only one corner of the top gets over 500, and I'm chewing throw wood.  This stove just doesn't get hot. Like sitting two feet from it and it's barely noticeable.
> 
> The ONLY other thing I can think of trying is to use very small pieces of wood instead of the normal sized pieces


Shut it back more and the temp will go up.


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## thoner7 (Feb 25, 2019)

bholler said:


> Shut it back more and the temp will go up.



Unfortunately my temps go down when I close the air.


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## bholler (Feb 25, 2019)

thoner7 said:


> Unfortunately my temps go down when I close the air.


Your stack temp should but the stove top temp should go up if your wood is dry


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## Seasoned Oak (Feb 25, 2019)

bholler said:


> Your stack temp should but the stove top temp should go up if your wood is dry


My stove top temps always goes up as i back off the air.


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## thoner7 (Feb 25, 2019)

Yeah my stove top temps drop to 415 or 450 obviously depending on how much I turn it down.  It'll be 350 on the side of the stove without much flame.  This happened last night with my kiln dried wood. 

If I am below 25% air the flames usually die out within 5-10 mins


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## bholler (Feb 25, 2019)

thoner7 said:


> Yeah my stove top temps drop to 415 or 450 obviously depending on how much I turn it down.  It'll be 350 on the side of the stove without much flame.  This happened last night with my kiln dried wood.
> 
> If I am below 25% air the flames usually die out within 5-10 mins


Did you test the moisture content of the kiln dried stuff?


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