# The stove won't stay lit.  Help!



## MommyOf4 (Dec 27, 2012)

I cleaned out my stove including the clean out tee, but now my stove won't stay lit.  The pellets are feeding during the initial start up, but the fire dies down and won't feed even after I hit the reset button. Can anyone help me?  I'm about to go crazy and I'm starting to regret my decision on getting a stove.


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## jtakeman (Dec 27, 2012)

Sounds like the thermal couple isn't seeing the fire. Make sure the ceramic tube is all the way on and both the tube and the thermal are extending over the firepot. Could also be some ash build up on the thermal couple itself. Might need to carefully brush the wire and clean inside the ceramic tube(get all the ash out).

I am sure a quad owner will be along to assist you shortly.


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## LMPS (Dec 27, 2012)

Try putting a handful of pellets in the burn pot after it auto cleans and is in start up.  Just open the door and put a handful in.  Sometimes it does not feed enough pellets and will shut down because the fire is not getting hot enough.  If you put a hand full or so in sometimes you can trick the stove and then it will run normal.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 27, 2012)

jtakeman said:


> Sounds like the thermal couple isn't seeing the fire. Make sure the ceramic tube is all the way on and both the tube and the thermal are entending over the firepot. Could also be some ash build up on the thermal couple itself. Might need to carefully brush the wire and clean inside the ceramic tube(get all the ash out).
> 
> I am sure a quad owner will be along to assist you shortly.


 
Where would the ceramic tube be located?  I didn't see anything in my manual.  Thanks for the info and future help (LOL).


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 27, 2012)

LMPS said:


> Try putting a handful of pellets in the burn pot after it auto cleans and is in start up. Just open the door and put a handful in. Sometimes it does not feed enough pellets and will shut down because the fire is not getting hot enough. If you put a hand full or so in sometimes you can trick the stove and then it will run normal.


 
I don't have a auto clean feature.  I have a CAB50.


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## The Ds (Dec 27, 2012)

We have a PS50; basically the same as your Cab50.

The thermocouple is inside the ceramic tube that hangs over the burnpot. Also unplug the stove before working on it. There is a bolt holding the ceramic piece in place. Ash can get in there and cause problems. Just tap the ash out, put the ceramic cover back over the thermocouple (ensuring that the cover makes contact with the thermocouple). Then power up the stove and give it a try.


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## DexterDay (Dec 27, 2012)

Yep... Sounds like the thermocouple isnt sensing the flame.

Makesure the Thermocouple (metal rod) is touching the inside end of the White ceramic cover, and make sure the cover is sticking out into the pot so flame can "lick" it.


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## mralias (Dec 27, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> Where would the ceramic tube be located? I didn't see anything in my manual. Thanks for the info and future help (LOL).


 
Page 47.1 item #6.1 is the ceramic tub, item #6 is the assembly in your manual for a CAB50.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

Would the white thing sticking into the burnpot be the thermocouple you're talking about?  I vacuumed that out and the same thing is happening.


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## LMPS (Dec 28, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> Would the white thing sticking into the burnpot be the thermocouple you're talking about? I vacuumed that out and the same thing is happening.


 
The thermocouple is inside the white ceramic tube in your picture.  To clean in side it like the others have said you have to losen the nut holding it.  If you do the cover will come off.  Then follow the instructions the others have given you.


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## The Ds (Dec 28, 2012)

Is the feedgate inside the hopper completely open?


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## Jack Morrissey (Dec 28, 2012)

when you hit the reset, can you hear the auger turning, and are there ANY pellets falling?


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

I just took it off and cleaned it again, but there was no ash in it. The same thing is still happening.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

The Ds said:


> Is the feedgate inside the hopper completely open?


 
No, I have the feed adjustment a medium setting.  If I open it completely the fire gets crazy.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

Jack Morrissey said:


> when you hit the reset, can you hear the auger turning, and are there ANY pellets falling?


 
After the fire starts to die down and I hit the reset button nothing happens.  You just hear the fan going.


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## The Ds (Dec 28, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> No, I have the feed adjustment a medium setting. If I open it completely the fire gets crazy.


 But your fire is going out now.....  try opening the feedgate a bit more and see if that helps.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

The Ds said:


> But your fire is going out now..... try opening the feedgate a bit more and see if that helps.


 
Same thing. I do hear a clicking noise though.  I've heard this noise before when it was working fine.


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## Hdhogger (Dec 28, 2012)

Things to check for.
Feed system fails to
start 
Amber light blinking
Out of fuel.
#2 snap disc may be defective or tripped.
Vacuum switch not closing. No vacuum.
Defective vacuum switch
Feed system jammed or blocked.
Feed spring not turning with feed motor.
Feed motor defective or not plugged in.
Thermocouple may have failed. Amber light will blink 3 times, pauses, and keeps repeating
Check hopper, fill with fuel.
Reset or replace snap disc
Check vacuum fitting on auger tube for
restrictions. Check door rope and replace if necessary.
Check exhaust blower is plugged in and
operating. 
Check vacuum switch is plugged in. Check vacuum hose is in good condition,
clear and connected at both ends. 
Check thermocouple is in good condition and plugged in properly.
Make sure venting system is clean.
NOTE:
High winds blowing into the venting system can pressurize the firebox causing loss of vacuum. 
Replace vacuum switch
Empty hopper of fuel. Use a wet/dry vacuum cleaner to remove remaining fuel, from hopper, including feed tube.
Check feed chute for obstructions.
Remove feed assembly & check for
obstruction. 
Check that set screw is tight on feed spring shaft at end of feed motor.
Check connections on feed motor, replace if defective.
Replace Thermocouple


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## DexterDay (Dec 28, 2012)

The Ds said:


> But your fire is going out now.....  try opening the feedgate a bit more and see if that helps.




I agree. Open feed gate. The T/C isnt sensing the flame. 

Could he because of to little fuel? Or the t/C isnt touching the inside end of ceramic cover  

Is the gate set according to the manual?  (4"-6" above pot on High). Then turn to desired heat setting.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

So here's the recap of the things I've done so far:
1) cleaned stove - ashpan, vacuum inside, hopper
2) cleaned out the clean out tee
3) cleaned out the thermocouple.

This all started AFTER I cleaned the clean out tee.  Did I do something wrong?  The cap is on as far as it will go


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## The Ds (Dec 28, 2012)

OK, how about the auger (inside the hopper) and the pellet chute (the hole in the center panel inside the stove)? We had a jam in ours yesterday even though I had vacuumed all pellets out of hopper (so auger was 'empty' up there), AND had vacuumed up the chute (and got a few pellets from there too). BUT, when I pushed a smaller vacuum cleaner hose up the chute, BAM! A bunch of pellets fell! I knew that was the 'fix'! THEN I looked in the hopper and pellets had fallen back down the auger into the hopper. Lesson learned - just because you can't SEE a jam, and you've done 'everything' to clean out the area, doesn't mean there isn't a jam somewhere.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

I vacuumed up the chute (from inside the stove) and down the chute (from the inside of the hopper).  I heard a LOT of pellets being vacuumed up.  The pellets fo feed during the initial start up.


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## mralias (Dec 28, 2012)

Is it possible you knocked a wire loose when you were cleaning it? I would re-check all connections just to make sure. Especially the thermocouple spade connectors. If the T-pipe is not seated correctly you would most likely smell smoke on start-up. Make sure you unplug it first.


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## Hdhogger (Dec 28, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> I vacuumed up the chute (from inside the stove) and down the chute (from the inside of the hopper). I heard a LOT of pellets being vacuumed up. The pellets fo feed during the initial start up.


 
Does it fire up now?


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

mralias said:


> Is it possible you knocked a wire loose when you were cleaning it? I would re-check all connections just to make sure. Especially the thermocouple spade connectors. If the T-pipe is not seated correctly you would most likely smell smoke on start-up. Make sure you unplug it first.


 

The wires are all connected as far as I can see.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

Hdhogger said:


> Does it fire up now?


 
The cleaning was done before the problem started and it's still going on.


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## Hdhogger (Dec 28, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> The cleaning was done before the problem started and it's still going on.


 
Sounds like your thermocouple needs to be replaced. When you're cleaning be careful not to bang into the ceramic cover for the TC. It could damage it.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

Hdhogger said:


> Sounds like your thermocouple needs to be replaced. When you're cleaning be careful not to bang into the ceramic cover for the TC. It could damage it.


 
Even if it's a brand new stove?


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## Hdhogger (Dec 28, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> Even if it's a brand new stove?


 
The TC seems to be the problem, but might not be. Your reset isn't working also? You might want to call your dealer and get some input from them. Or have a tech check it out.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

Hdhogger said:


> The TC seems to be the problem, but might not be. Your reset isn't working also? You might want to call your dealer and get some input from them. Or have a tech check it out.


 

I just called them and they said that it doesn't sound like a cleaning issue or draft issue since it is lighting. They said that it might be a sensor issue.  Earliest they can come is on the 8th.


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## Dinger (Dec 28, 2012)

Looks like its wired exactly like my SantaFe?

If she had a bad TC wouldn't this be showing up on the control box via three yellow flashes? 

Not that it's exactly the same stove, but the only problem I've had was a plugged vac tube to the vacuum switch. I unplug the hose on mine at the switch, and blow back toward the stove. 

Maybe some ash got stirred up when she cleaned out the trap?


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## Hdhogger (Dec 28, 2012)

Dinger said:


> Looks like its wired exactly like my SantaFe?
> 
> If she had a bad TC wouldn't this be showing up on the control box via three yellow flashes?
> 
> ...


 
Could be, this is on the trouble shoot list. Haven't done it myself yet but it seems to be easily done. I'm wondering why the reset switch isn't working. Could this be a control box problem?


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

Hdhogger said:


> Could be, this is on the trouble shoot list. Haven't done it myself yet but it seems to be easily done. I'm wondering why the reset switch isn't working. Could this be a control box problem?


 
The guy at the stove shop said the stove may be overheating inside and something maybe calling for it to shut down.


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## Hdhogger (Dec 28, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> The guy at the stove shop said the stove may be overheating inside and something maybe calling for it to shut down.


 
Was the stove hot or cold when you had the misfire? If it was warm or cold I can't see overheating as the problem. If it just shut of by Tstat and tried to fire right up again, could be.


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## Dinger (Dec 28, 2012)

What about a good old fashioned reboot? Shut everything down, unplug it for a min, plug it back in and see what happens.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

Hdhogger said:


> Was the stove hot or cold when you had the misfire? If it was warm or cold I can't see overheating as the problem. If it just shut of by Tstat and tried to fire right up again, could be.


 
The stove was cold.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

Dinger said:


> What about a good old fashioned reboot? Shut everything down, unplug it for a min, plug it back in and see what happens.


 
I'm going to try that RIGHT now.


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## LMPS (Dec 28, 2012)

Try fooling the stove.  When it lights and the fire is starting put a handful of pellets in to see if you can manually keep it going or not.  While I do not have the same stove I have done this a couple of  times when mine did this and got it to build the fire enough that it took over on its own.  Just a suggestion.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

I tried rebooting and fooling the stove and both didn't work.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

I just came to check on the stove and it lit itself but died down just as quick.


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## imacman (Dec 28, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> I just came to check on the stove and it lit itself but died down just as quick.


I sent you a PM


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## fmsm (Dec 28, 2012)

I am not saying this is your issue and I do not know your stove but I had a similar problem with my p35i last year. After cleaning the stove would not stay lit, I retraced all of my steps and determined it was the right side ash clean out plate not being seated properly. Is it possible something did not go back together perfectly? I did get a fire but the flame struggled and would shut down, I also had charred pellets that did not completely burn.


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## Hdhogger (Dec 28, 2012)

How about checking the air intake under the ash pan for any thing that could be blocking it.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

fmsm said:


> I am not saying this is your issue and I do not know your stove but I had a similar problem with my p35i last year. After cleaning the stove would not stay lit, I retraced all of my steps and determined it was the right side ash clean out plate not being seated properly. Is it possible something did not go back together perfectly? I did get a fire but the flame struggled and would shut down, I also had charred pellets that did not completely burn.


 
It sounds like that is what my stove is doing, but I can't seem to find what's causing it.  I have an ash drawer, but not really sure what a clean out plate is.  Would that be the same thing?

Please excuse my lack of knowledge on this as I am a NEW, NEW stove owner.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

Hdhogger said:


> How about checking the air intake under the ash pan for any thing that could be blocking it.


 
I checked it and the only thing above it was the ash pan.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

I just found this under my ashpan


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## Hdhogger (Dec 28, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> I checked it and the only thing above it was the ash pan.


 
Ok, how about making sure the baffle plates are seated correctly. After cleaning mine I noticed before I fired up they were not in right. I've heard this can be a problem.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

Hdhogger said:


> Ok, how about making sure the baffle plates are seated correctly. After cleaning mine I noticed before I fired up they were not in right. I've heard this can be a problem.


 
The baffle plates are in correctly.


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## fmsm (Dec 28, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> It sounds like that is what my stove is doing, but I can't seem to find what's causing it.  I have an ash drawer, but not really sure what a clean out plate is.  Would that be the same thing?
> 
> Please excuse my lack of knowledge on this as I am a NEW, NEW stove owner.


Your stove may be different, if you only have baffle plates try taking them out and reseating them. My plate was off by less than an eighth of an inch.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

Ok I'll check the baffle plates when it cools down some more. Do you have any idea what the washer could be from?


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## Hdhogger (Dec 28, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> Ok I'll check the baffle plates when it cools down some more. Do you have any idea what the washer could be from?


 
Looks like it was for one of the bolts that held the stove to the shipping skid.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

Hdhogger said:


> Looks like it was for one of the bolts that held the stove to the shipping skid.


 When I called the stove shop they said the same thing.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

Ok gentlemen....

I think I may have fixed it  I went in for my last attempt and cleaned the stove out again.  I vacuumed it all and checked the baffle plates.  I'm thinking it was the baffle plates since there was some ash behind it. The stove has been feeding pellets on a consistent basis for longer than the last 24 hours. 

Thank you ALL for helping me!!  You have no idea how much I appreciate it!


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## Hdhogger (Dec 28, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> Ok gentlemen....
> 
> I think I may have fixed it I went in for my last attempt and cleaned the stove out again. I vacuumed it all and checked the baffle plates. I'm thinking it was the baffle plates since there was some ash behind it. The stove has been feeding pellets on a consistent basis for longer than the last 24 hours.
> 
> Thank you ALL for helping me!! You have no idea how much I appreciate it!


 
24 hours?


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## The Ds (Dec 28, 2012)

Glad it's working for you now!! Those plates need removed and cleaned (as well as cleaning behind them) when doing a deeper cleaning. Care must be taken to seat them properly when replacing them. They can be tricky


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

Hdhogger said:


> 24 hours?



It wasn't working since yesterday morning.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

The Ds said:


> Glad it's working for you now!! Those plates need removed and cleaned (as well as cleaning behind them) when doing a deeper cleaning. Care must be taken to seat them properly when replacing them. They can be tricky


 

I just cleaned it but when I checked last it was completely black.


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## Hdhogger (Dec 28, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> It wasn't working since yesterday morning.


 
BRRRRRRRRRRR!  Glad you got you got your heat back.


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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 28, 2012)

Good to hear.

Eric


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## fmsm (Dec 28, 2012)

Glad to hear your back up and running! Have a happy and healthy new year!


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 28, 2012)

fmsm said:


> Glad to hear your back up and running! Have a happy and healthy new year!


 
Same to you!


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## stoveguy2esw (Dec 28, 2012)

hearth dot com "A Team" strikes again, great job gang!


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## Hdhogger (Dec 28, 2012)

Kudos to all. And a Happy New Year!!


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 29, 2012)

Ugh!!  It's happening again.


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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 29, 2012)

Double check the door gasket with a folded over dollar bill. fold length wise.  Go all the way around the door.


Eric


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 29, 2012)

kinsmanstoves said:


> Double check the door gasket with a folded over dollar bill. fold length wise.  Go all the way around the door.
> 
> 
> Eric



It slides out easily.


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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 29, 2012)

There is the problem.  Use WD40 or similar and spray the door latch.  Wait wait wait for it. Then remove the nut and alter the location of the washers so it tightens the seal.  I do not want to say, I told you so.  Just kidding, you have my phone number.

Eric


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 29, 2012)

kinsmanstoves said:


> There is the problem. Use WD40 or similar and spray the door latch. Wait wait wait for it. Then remove the nut and alter the location of the washers so it tightens the seal. I do not want to say, I told you so. Just kidding, you have my phone number.
> 
> Eric


 
What do you mean alter the location?


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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 29, 2012)

Move the washer (s) to the other side of the lug.  Page 56 of your manual diagram #4.

Eric


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 29, 2012)

You're talking about this right?


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 29, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> You're talking about this right?


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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 29, 2012)

yes


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 29, 2012)

The dollar comes out with a slight tug, but the same thing happens.  Could it be the gasket (the rope looking thing) that goes around the door?


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## DexterDay (Dec 29, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> The dollar comes out with a slight tug, but the same thing happens.  Could it be the gasket (the rope looking thing) that goes around the door?



Yes. Tightening the latch will compress the gasket more. The loose gasket is causing the stove to lose vacuum and shut down the auger (any air leak will lower vacuum levels inside the firebox). 

Did you make it as tight as it will go? Any room left for adjustment?


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## stoveguy2esw (Dec 29, 2012)

where is the port for the vac switch, im not familiar with this stove but its sounding like its dropping the switch then recapturing it. the vac port may be partially obstructed, maybe the OP can locate this port and clear it with a wire or toothpick or somthing


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 29, 2012)

Same thing keeps happening.


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## DexterDay (Dec 29, 2012)

How old is the stove? Under warranty?  Call dealer. 

If not, and you are fairly handy, you could try jumping the vac switch to narrow it down to that? More than likely is losing vacuum and Gasket may need "fluffed" or replaced. 

Can you use your fingers or a pair of pliers (gently) to make the gasket fluffy (thicker) again. Over time they flatten out. 

Jumping the vac switch will require you to unplug the stove and use a small piece of wire to make the switch think it has contact.  (Dealing with Electricity here, if not able, then do not attempt).


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 29, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> How old is the stove? Under warranty? Call dealer.
> 
> If not, and you are fairly handy, you could try jumping the vac switch to narrow it down to that? More than likely is losing vacuum and Gasket may need "fluffed" or replaced.
> 
> ...



By jumping the switch, does that mean the vacuum will constantly on?


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## DexterDay (Dec 29, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> By jumping the switch, does that mean the vacuum will constantly on?



That means the vac switch will think it has contact. The vacuum is created by the combustion blower? 

The vac switch doesn't "Make" vacuum or do anything, other than tell the auger that there is sufficient vacuum (door is closed and gaskets are good.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 29, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> That means the vac switch will think it has contact. The vacuum is created by the combustion blower?
> 
> The vac switch doesn't "Make" vacuum or do anything, other than tell the auger that there is sufficient vacuum (door is closed and gaskets are good.


 


DexterDay said:


> contact. The vacuum is created by the combustion blower?



I found the vacuum switch and made sure the wires were completely connected and wiped the dust or ash off of it and it's been on for a good 30 mins.  I think I would rather have the dealer take a look at it before I mess with jumping it.  It sounds like a safety feature to me or am I wrong?


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## heat seeker (Dec 29, 2012)

It is a safety feature. You can safely bypass it if you're watching the stove, for long enough to see if it keeps burning. That would narrow the problem down to either a bad switch (not likely), or a lack of vacuum.


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## Dinger (Dec 29, 2012)

Mommy, 

You say you found the switch; it has two wires and a tube attached to it. When the switch is engaged by vacuum created by the stove, it would be the same as connecting those two wires together. That is what a "jumper" would do, replicate the switch in an active state. This must be done carefully as one of those wires is live, which is why it's done with the stove unplugged. 

The tube is what delivers the vacuum to the switch, and what I was referring to a page or so back. This tube can get plugged and block the vacuum to the switch, disabling it. 

I can get to mine quite easily, and I pull it quite often and just blow through it to make sure it's clear. For clarity, the stove is off, and unplugged, and I pull the tube off of the switch, and just blow through it to make sure it's clear, then I reinstall, plug the stove back in, and I'm good to go.


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## Harvey Schneider (Dec 29, 2012)

Dinger said:


> I can get to mine quite easily, and I pull it quite often and just blow through it to make sure it's clear. For clarity, the stove is off, and unplugged, and I pull the tube off of the switch, and just blow through it to make sure it's clear, then I reinstall, plug the stove back in, and I'm good to go.


If you do this it is important to keep track of where the tube was attached and where the wires were attached when you started so that you can make sure to put them back in the right place. If your memory is as bad as mine, take a picture. Did I say take a picture?


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## stoveguy2esw (Dec 30, 2012)

actually before jumping, take the tube loose at the switch and blow some air through it, i usually use "canned air" like you would blow out your computer with


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## stoveguy2esw (Dec 30, 2012)

Like this


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 30, 2012)

I'm really missing the warmth of a pellet stove.  It's just not the same as a heat pump (or electric heat...is it the same thing?)


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## Dinger (Dec 30, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> I'm really missing the warmth of a pellet stove.  It's just not the same as a heat pump (or electric heat...is it the same thing?)



What's your status? Waiting for repair person?


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 30, 2012)

Dinger said:


> What's your status? Waiting for repair person?


 
We have a repair person coming on Jan 8th, but I want to fix it if I can. It's going to cost $160 for the first 30 mins and $70 for each 30 mins after if it's not a warranty issue.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 30, 2012)

BTW, I noticed smoke coming from the elbow at top during the initial start up.  After a few seconds it's gone.  This just started happening as well when the stove started acting up. Is this normal?


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## mralias (Dec 30, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> BTW, I noticed smoke coming from the elbow at top during the initial start up. After a few seconds it's gone. This just started happening as well when the stove started acting up. Is this normal?


 NO! Smoke is not suppose to come from the elbow. You have a leak. What type of venting are you using?


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 30, 2012)

mralias said:


> NO! Smoke is not suppose to come from the elbow. You have a leak. What type of venting are you using?


 
Selkirk VP


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## Dinger (Dec 30, 2012)

Why don't you take a bunch of photos if everything you did; pipe, clean out, baffles, wiring etc. just put up a bunch, maybe someone will see something out of the ordinary. Cost is nothing!


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## imacman (Dec 30, 2012)

Dinger said:


> Why don't you take a bunch of photos if everything you did; pipe, clean out, baffles, wiring etc. just put up a bunch, maybe someone will see something out of the ordinary. Cost is nothing!


Good idea.


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## Brokenwing (Dec 30, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> Selkirk VP


 
Fyi that slekirk elbow needs slicone.  Tech support advised me when I did my install, to put rtv high temp silicone around both joints on the elbow.  Also check your stove adapater as well, they usually need some sealent as well


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## mralias (Dec 30, 2012)

Can you isolate where on the 45 it is coming from? Is it at a joint or in the middle of the 45? Did you move this at some point when you were cleaning it? I don't have Selkrik VP myself but I'm sure someone that is watching this thread does and can tell you how to stop the leak. The important part is leaking of any sort in the venting system, especially in the house is bad.


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## DexterDay (Dec 30, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> BTW, I noticed smoke coming from the elbow at top during the initial start up.  After a few seconds it's gone.  This just started happening as well when the stove started acting up. Is this normal?




This will not cause your stove to shut down. 

It needs sealed up for your Safety (CO Kills) but q Pellet stove will run with No Venting hooked up. 

The Feed gate being set to low, T/C placement, and ash trap door (bottom of pot) are my most likely guesses. 

Have you tried to open the Gate ALL THE WAY?? If the stove doesn't get enough fuel? It will not start or stay running? 

Try opening gate 100%. Set stove to Med or High and restart..... See what happens.


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## Dinger (Dec 30, 2012)

oldmountvernon said:


> 320 per hour ? lol  then 140 per hour lol  i would never pay the 2nd hour never mind the first


And us mechanics and shop owners get a bad rap at $90-95/hr. 

I prefer to be robbed with a gun.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 30, 2012)

I found a bit of a gap where the tee cap is and I'm wondering if that could be the problem?


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 30, 2012)

mralias said:


> Can you isolate where on the 45 it is coming from? Is it at a joint or in the middle of the 45? Did you move this at some point when you were cleaning it? I don't have Selkrik VP myself but I'm sure someone that is watching this thread does and can tell you how to stop the leak. The important part is leaking of any sort in the venting system, especially in the house is bad.


 
I haven't moved it to my knowledge.  When our 2nd installers came out they said that it was mostly likely the lubricants burning off.  Anyhow I'll make sure to get some silicone for it tomorrow.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 30, 2012)

Brokenwing said:


> Fyi that slekirk elbow needs slicone. Tech support advised me when I did my install, to put rtv high temp silicone around both joints on the elbow. Also check your stove adapater as well, they usually need some sealent as well


 
We do have silicone around the adapter.  I'll make sure to get some silicone tomorrow for the elbow.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 30, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> This will not cause your stove to shut down.
> 
> It needs sealed up for your Safety (CO Kills) but q Pellet stove will run with No Venting hooked up.
> 
> ...


 
Even with the gate open all the way the same thing happens.


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## Dinger (Dec 30, 2012)

Any chance, (I can't see it as good as you) that cap is in wrong? Blocking the exhaust flow? 

That would sure shut it down after it gets started, if your tripping the #2 snap once it got hot. Plus, that might force exhaust into the outer wall, giving you this new leak you are experiencing.

For the record, that thing is clean! Nice job.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 30, 2012)

Dinger said:


> Any chance, (I can't see it as good as you) that cap is in wrong? Blocking the exhaust flow?
> 
> That would sure shut it down after it gets started, if your tripping the #2 snap once it got hot. Plus, that might force exhaust into the outer wall, giving you this new leak you are experiencing.


 
I've matched the hole on the cap with the hole on the vent and screwed it in place.  This started happening after I cleaned out the tee


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## Dinger (Dec 30, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> This started happening after I cleaned out the tee



Then troubleshooting must start RIGHT THERE!  

Check it out and good luck. Make sure the vacuum end or a rag or GI Joe or something obscure isn't hanging out in there. You're close, I feel it.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 30, 2012)

Dinger said:


> Then troubleshooting must start RIGHT THERE!
> 
> Check it out and good luck. Make sure the vacuum end or a rag or GI Joe or something obscure isn't hanging out in there. You're close, I feel it.


 
Vacuum end?


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## Dinger (Dec 30, 2012)

You know like from the ash vac or something. Just sayin'.. Check for anything.


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 30, 2012)

Here's a better picture for you and there wasn't anything in it. I put the cap in the same as before. There was nothing in it. I realized that the gap was from it being double something...I forgot what it was called. Sorry!


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## MommyOf4 (Dec 30, 2012)

I hear something clicking when the fit starts to dim.


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## DexterDay (Dec 30, 2012)

The venting, unless blocked, will not cause your problems... 

The cap can only go on one way, please silicone any leaks to prevent smoke spillage. 

Have you looked at the Termination cap? Is it plugged up? 

Otherwise, the issue is not vent related. A stove will run with No vent. The stove needs vacuum to run, the firebox is negative pressure and vent is positive. Vent only effects the stove if plugged. If your vent is clean and cap is clear, your problem is elsewhere. 

What setting are you running on? 

Have you double checked and triple checked the T/C and ensured that the tip (metal end) is touching the end of the ceramic cover? 

Unplug stove, then plug back in. What are the color of lights from control box? How many flashes of what color? After you do this, start stove and note the color of the lights from control box and how long into start up sequence that they change color.


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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 31, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> We have a repair person coming on Jan 8th, but I want to fix it if I can. It's going to cost $160 for the first 30 mins and $70 for each 30 mins after if it's not a warranty issue.


 

Wow I need to adjust my rates.

Eric


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## tjnamtiw (Dec 31, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> We have a repair person coming on Jan 8th, but I want to fix it if I can. It's going to cost $160 for the first 30 mins and $70 for each 30 mins after if it's not a warranty issue.


Wow, is this guy a Chevy dealer mechanic as well????  That's nuts!


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## heat seeker (Dec 31, 2012)

I'm in the wrong business, he gets $140/hour? $160 to show up at the door for 30 minutes??? WOW!


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## stoveguy2esw (Dec 31, 2012)

i have to agree, the repairman's pricing is just insane, i could see it if he had to drive for a few hundred miles but the rates are just stupid high fro what ive seen around the country for this type of work.

have we checked to make sure the auger isnt slipping on the motor coupler? can we look up the drop chute with a mirror to ensure we dont have a blockage up there?

im still also fixating on the vac switch as well, have we located the port where the switch gets its presssure and ensured it is clear of ash?


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## mralias (Dec 31, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> I found a bit of a gap where the tee cap is and I'm wondering if that could be the problem?


 
Could be a source of a leak, however as Dexter has stated stove can run without venting. The venting is there so you won't fill your house with smoke and CO. That would not be a source of you original issue of the stove dying out. 

Based on the pics of the inside back of the stove everything looks real easy to get at. Not too sure what the other two pics are.


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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 31, 2012)

I am still betting on the gap in the door. Your stove is still under warranty so tell that dealer to hurry up.  Refer to post #66.

Eric


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## stoveguy2esw (Dec 31, 2012)

kinsmanstoves said:


> I am still betting on the gap in the door. Your stove is still under warranty so tell that dealer to hurry up.
> 
> Eric


 
hey eric , whats the "break point" or value of the vac switch on this stove?


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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 31, 2012)

.05" wc


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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 31, 2012)

MommyOf4 said:


> I hear something clicking when the fit starts to dim.


 
That is just the metal flexing from heat change.

Eric


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## stoveguy2esw (Dec 31, 2012)

kinsmanstoves said:


> .05" wc


 

would just a light gap in the door gasket cause that switch to drop? usually with our stoves (same value on door switch) you have to crack the door about a 1/4 inch to get the switch to drop in most cases.  where is the port the vac switch gets its pressure from? is it in the firebox area where it can be easily accessed?


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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 31, 2012)

the port is inside the auger tube, yes I am sure they can clog but never seen one clog.  I will seen numerous doors fail the dollar bill test and cause the switch to stop the auger.

Eric


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## Woody1911a1 (Dec 31, 2012)

ok question , what are the dangers of over riding that switch ?  other than protecting against people not having their door closed and latched .


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## stoveguy2esw (Dec 31, 2012)

kinsmanstoves said:


> the port is inside the auger tube, yes I am sure they can clog but never seen one clog. I will seen numerous doors fail the dollar bill test and cause the switch to stop the auger.
> 
> Eric


really? inside the tube? what keeps pellet dust out of it? is it up at the top or something? seems a strange place to put one wouldnt be getting as much negative pressure there i'd think so i guess it would take less of a air leak at the door to drop it. 

interesting concept, might have to play with that some


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## stoveguy2esw (Dec 31, 2012)

Woody1911a1 said:


> ok question , what are the dangers of over riding that switch ? other than protecting against people not having their door closed and latched .


 

its also protection against a large spillage of CO which would develop fast from a smoky lazy fire from a door being opened (latch failure)or the glass breaking by interrupting feed the amount of fuel already in the fire is all you would get thus the CO release would be greatly minimized over having more fuel being fed into a smoldering fire exposed to the home environment. it really is an important safety device and should only be overridden for test purposes when doing a monitored burn so that if something did arise a person could get the stove shut down


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## DexterDay (Dec 31, 2012)

Lots of Quad threads every year from those who have plugged Vac nipples on the Auger chute. Was just one today. 

Normally takes 1-3 seasons (most 2-3) before they plug through. Not a new unit.


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## stoveguy2esw (Dec 31, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> Lots of Quad threads every year from those who have plugged Vac nipples on the Auger chute. Was just one today.
> 
> Normally takes 1-3 seasons (most 2-3) before they plug through. Not a new unit.


 

pellet dust? wonder if we got a bag of punky pellets getting grinded up in the feed tube? i'd still take some canned air, disconnect the vac line at the switch and shoot the tube with air to clear it


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## rparker (Dec 31, 2012)

Did you check all of the connections? Possible during cleaning that you loosened one. 
Unplug stove first. Then check each wire connection (especially to the snap disks). Mine looked good but I found that the connectors were loose on one. Tightened it up and all is good.


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## gfreek (Dec 31, 2012)

Any news on the stove in this thread??


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## MommyOf4 (Jan 1, 2013)

I checked the thermocouple and it's definitely on all the way. I checked the venting - no obstructions. Connections are tight. Vacuumed the entire stove. End result - Stove shuts down about 3-5 after the fan comes on. I still hear the clicking noise once the fan comes on. Reset button doesn't work once fan comes on.


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## kinsmanstoves (Jan 1, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> I checked the thermocouple and it's definitely on all the way. I checked the venting - no obstructions. Connections are tight. Vacuumed the entire stove. End result - Stove shuts down about 3-5 after the fan comes on. I still hear the clicking noise once the fan comes on. Reset button doesn't work once fan comes on.


 
That is because the negative pressure switch has the auger stopped.  That is how the stove works.

Eric


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## gfreek (Jan 1, 2013)

So whats next?  Pay the outrageous service charge?? Did they ever jump the vacuum switch??


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## DexterDay (Jan 1, 2013)

What is the light sequence when you unplug and replug in the stove? What color and how many times?


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## kinsmanstoves (Jan 1, 2013)

Do not jump the vacuum switch if the door does not seal.  Please refer to post #66 in this thread.

Eric


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## Hdhogger (Jan 1, 2013)

Has the vac line been cleared yet? I would do this asap and try firing up. First doing the dollar bill test around all of the door gasket.


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## fmsm (Jan 1, 2013)

Stupid question time; After you removed the baffles, cleaned behind them, and then reseated them the stove worked fine for a short period of time? How long was that for and have your tried reseating the baffles again in case something was/is loose?


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## MommyOf4 (Jan 1, 2013)

Hdhogger said:


> Has the vac line been cleared yet? I would do this asap and try firing up. First doing the dollar bill test around all of the door gasket.


 
Vac line?


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## MommyOf4 (Jan 1, 2013)

fmsm said:


> Stupid question time; After you removed the baffles, cleaned behind them, and then reseated them the stove worked fine for a short period of time? How long was that for and have your tried reseating the baffles again in case something was/is loose?


 
It ran for a couple hours at the most and then it stopped.  I'm thinking it's the gasket. I'm thinking about adding another washer to see if it will help it.  Can someone tell me what kind of washer and where I need to put it?  Thanks in advance.


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## Dinger (Jan 1, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> Vac line?


The vac (vacuum) line is the tube that is connected to the vacuum switch you looked at. Its visible in your pic. Those get clogged once in a while and trick the switch. You can pull it off the switch and blow through it toward the stove to clear it. 

Have you done this?


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## Dinger (Jan 1, 2013)

It's the black tube in the middle of the pic.


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## MommyOf4 (Jan 1, 2013)

Dinger said:


> The vac (vacuum) line is the tube that is connected to the vacuum switch you looked at. Its visible in your pic. Those get clogged once in a while and trick the switch. You can pull it off the switch and blow through it toward the stove to clear it.
> 
> Have you done this?


 
I haven't done this, but didn't see any tubes to the va switch.  Maybe I was looking at the wrong thing?


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## MommyOf4 (Jan 1, 2013)

Dinger said:


> It's the black tube in the middle of the pic.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
The wire looking thing or the black round thing?


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## imacman (Jan 2, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> The wire looking thing or the black round thing?


In the pic above, it's the black tubing right in the middle.  It's coming in from the left side, and ends up right behind the middle red wire.  If you unplug everything that attaches to the vacuum switch one at a time, you'll find it.

Once you find the tube, blow through it, use compressed air, or canned air.  Just need to make sure it's clear, then reattach and try the stove.  But if the door gasket fails the dollar bill test, then it still won't stay running.....get that door tightened up.


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## MommyOf4 (Jan 7, 2013)

I talked to our repairman today and told him that our stove failed the dollar bill test.  I wanted to make sure that he brought a snap disk and a gasket for the door and he said that since our stove is a new one, he doubts that it is the gasket issue. Something tells me that I will be frustrated tomorrow...


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## kinsmanstoves (Jan 7, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> I talked to our repairman today and told him that our stove failed the dollar bill test. I wanted to make sure that he brought a snap disk and a gasket for the door and he said that since our stove is a new one, he doubts that it is the gasket issue. Something tells me that I will be frustrated tomorrow...


 

I suggest open carry vs. concealed carry of your sidearm tomorrow.  

Eric


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## MommyOf4 (Jan 7, 2013)

kinsmanstoves said:


> That is because the negative pressure switch has the auger stopped. That is how the stove works.
> 
> Eric


 
Have you seen new CAB50 with bad gaskets?


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## DexterDay (Jan 7, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> Have you seen new CAB50 with bad gaskets?



Its possible for any new stove (regardless of Manufacturer) to have a "Bad" part. Especially a gasket that is installed by an actual person.


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## rparker (Jan 7, 2013)

Just because a part is/was new, the installation or adjustment could have been sub-par.  Does the gasket have any obvious kinks, frawed parts, etc?
Wish I lived closer.


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## MommyOf4 (Jan 7, 2013)

rparker said:


> Just because a part is/was new, the installation or adjustment could have been sub-par. Does the gasket have any obvious kinks, frawed parts, etc?
> Wish I lived closer.


 
A little bit of fraying but not much.


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## rparker (Jan 7, 2013)

If the repairman is coming have him check all of the connections.  You might have slightly loosened one when cleaning.  When the stove heats up, the metal will expand and a loose connection can open up. When it cools down the metal contracts and a connection can seem ok.  Just trying to come up with any possible solutions.


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## MommyOf4 (Jan 8, 2013)

So the repairmen from our stove shop came by and has determined that the "purple" connection was not completely connected. It's working now... so far. He said the gasket was not at fault, so we shall see...


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## MommyOf4 (Jan 8, 2013)

oldmountvernon said:


> arg, didnt you say you checked that in a previous post?



The connection seemed tight to me.  He said that it was on, but not making a complete connection something to do with a plastic piece.  He was getting a little technical and it went over my head.


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## MommyOf4 (Jan 8, 2013)

oldmountvernon said:


> well at lest your running, did he rob ya?


 
Nope!  He said it was a manufacturing issue so he didn't charge me at all.


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## imacman (Jan 8, 2013)

Keep us posted if it keeps running longer than previous times.


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## gfreek (Jan 8, 2013)

Good... Hope thats it..  Keep warm...


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## DexterDay (Jan 8, 2013)

Glad you got it fixed. And Free to Boot  Nice.


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