# How much overhang on shed roof (and other Qs)



## Soundchasm (Apr 12, 2014)

Howdy,

My intent is to build a minimalist woodshed.  I have no construction skills whatsoever, but I'll get help from qualified folks.  I've got more than a few questions, and have read the shed-thread twice and stolen photos.

Plan is to go 8x12, 6' high in the back to 7' high in the front.  So three 4x8 sections, each with two pallets for the floor.

1.  Corrugated metal or plastic roof?  First thought is that metal would conduct more heat through.  Galvanized if metal?  I don't prefer OSB and shingles.  What about painting metal black for more heat?
2. How much overhang for roof?  144" panels on a 96" roof leaves enough for 2' out the back and 2' out the front.  Is overhang on the side a good thing?
3. My split length is 16", so I'd stack six rows N/S to fill a section.  I know I'm going to need something to keep wood from squirting out the sides.

Here are two shots I liked.  Not my photos, but these got me thinking.  Thanks.


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## blades (Apr 12, 2014)

You do not need a black roof, air flow is what counts more than anything. 2 FT front and back is fine.  Sides really do not need any  but 4-6" keeps drips away from the rafters.  some roll up tarps for the sides to keep things dry during in-climate weather would be a nice touch.


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## paul bunion (Apr 12, 2014)

Heat (energy) is what is needed for water to evaporate.   Air movement is part of the equation but in itself it does not dry wood. So elevating your temperature will help to speed drying.  But unless you enclose your shed and essentially build a solar kiln your roof construction will not matter.   Any gain in temperature in the roof will never make it to your stack as the air will heat up under the roof and run out of the shed.   It won't raise the temperature of your stack.


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## Soundchasm (Apr 12, 2014)

I guess if it were enclosed hot air exiting the top would draw air from the bottom and make circulation.  I was almost thinking in terms of a dark color gaining heat to melt snow more quickly, like my neighbor's asphalt driveways.  I saw a line somewhere that you could paint galvanized steel.

I have a very old structure on the property with almost the exact same slope with galvanized metal roofing, but it's never needed the slightest bit of help in the 10+ winters here.  But I expect that stuff is much thicker than what I'm going to find in the big box stores.  There's very little roofing structure in it compared to the designs I see being built on the forum.

Thank you guys.

Looking at those deck blocks, is gravity the only thing keeping the posts in the blocks?  Haven't seen any other method mentioned yet.


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## DougA (Apr 12, 2014)

Soundchasm said:


> Looking at those deck blocks, is gravity the only thing keeping the posts in the blocks?  Haven't seen any other method mentioned yet.


If you get a tornado or a high wind storm, your roof will be miles away no matter if you are on blocks or the posts are 5' down embedded in concrete. The wind will rip the nails holding the roof, the method of support won't matter. Concrete blocks are cheap, simple, easy to move and will last as long as anything that you can bury.  If you want to be sure, bolt a couple of 4x4s across the bottom that go under the skids, so the weight of the wood is holding the uprights.  Honestly, if the wind is that strong, nothing will matter because your house will be gone too.


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## ihookem (Apr 12, 2014)

I built one last year . A 6'x12' , 6' high on one side and 9' high on the other. I didn't have much of an overhang for reasons of the wind in my area. It is brutal and dangerous if it flies off and hits someone. Screw the heck out of the roof and llittle overhang. The wood dried very well last summer.


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## 711mhw (Apr 12, 2014)

Overhangs are a good thing on all of your walls.


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## bigbarf48 (Apr 12, 2014)

Id leave that overhang. Id go with metal over plastic, painting is unnecessary. I wouldnt worry about too much of an overhang on the sides, mine has maybe 8"


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## Soundchasm (Apr 13, 2014)

These are all good thoughts as I try to develop brand new neural pathways.  That's a good conclusion about the wind.  If it's going, it's gone.  Reminds me of the "open windows to equalize pressure during a tornado" advice...  Or duck and cover.  Or self-administered CPR.

I still need to consult with some experts, but much after puzzling I figured out I've ended up with more questions.  Here are a few.

Became aware that the longer something spans, the wider it needs to be, 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, etc.  I think I'm on a cusp with the 12' opening.
Bracing with another post at 6' across makes sense.
Any thoughts on using 2x6, 2x8, etc to span 6"?  Is spanning the whole 12' possible?  I see folks are putting boards on the front and back of the posts.  I found the charts for rafters, but not for the thing that holds the roof up!   What is that called, anyway, a header?

Going through this process really makes me appreciate some of the sheds I've seen posted.


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## blades (Apr 13, 2014)

Yes header.  basic shed  vertical can be 4-12ft on center ( 4x4 on the corners 2x4 elswhere)  12 ft span 2x6 on edge, header 2x6 on edge  Only because of possible snow load Rafters spaced so you can screw down roofing material depends on panel width. Look at simple pole type lean to structures. Be awear that there may be local ordinances concerning your build. Non permanent structures  are mostly non regulated but anything tied to one spot are. If your in town they always have a lot of funky regs to deal with.
Last one I built some 25 years ago was a 2 story 12X16 ft barn using standard 16" on center spacing throughout - basically a single car garage with a barn style roof. This was on a cement slab local restrictions had a size ref. much smaller but as I was replacing something that collapsed from age it was grandfathered in. I snookered them by going vertical for more space no regs on height only perimeter .


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## Soundchasm (Apr 13, 2014)

Blades, no kidding on the local ordinances.  I needed an outdoor structure and it was nutty.  Ended up that I had to build a "garage" (poured concrete) because the front of the structure was forward of an invisible line from the back of my deck, which was deemed the rear of my house.  Therefore, no "shed" since it wasn't in the back yard.  Ye Gods.

Just read a sentence where they declared that a corner lot is TWO front yards...

I'm closing in on this design.  It's starting to look good on paper.


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