# Splitting WITHOUT a splitting block?



## CenterTree (Jan 29, 2014)

During a different thread I had on Tennis Elbow, the subject of splitting WITHOUT a block came up.  So I thought it might deserve it's own thread.  Here's the precept that got me to thinking....



Backwoods Savage said:


> ....... but when splitting by hand, I do not like to set a log on top of another.* I much prefer having that log right on the ground*. Naturally the best time to do this is in the winter with the ground frozen but it works well if it isn't frozen too. The main reason is that you have a longer stroke if the log is down rather than up. It is just like the stroke, say, on a crossbow. Most times the longer stroke will give more power else they have to depend upon the strength of the limbs or the design of a cam if used. In addition, my wrists, elbows and shoulders never bothered when splitting like this but they did if I tried splitting with one sitting on top of another. That stroke just is not natural and therefore can cause the tendon problems.





Backwoods Savage said:


> ......
> *I never have worried about the axe or maul striking the ground.* It rarely happens but does a bit more with the maul. That I don't want sharp anyway......



So, my question is:  Who else here just splits on the ground?

I am mainly concerned of finding the best way to split with the LEAST undesirable force added to my body.  SO I am up for ideas.  (aside from the obvious of hydraulics) .

The other point I need to clarify is:  If splitting on the ground, how does one prevent dulling of the axe from striking dirt/gravel?    It seems that a lot of my strikes with the X27 go completely THROUGH the log to the block.

Is there an alternative "block" that can be used instead of a large round?  Something lower, yet that would still protect the blade??  Thanks!


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## Jags (Jan 29, 2014)

Plywood.

I always used a block.  I felt that the ground was absorbing some of the energy.  Large ones were left on the ground until broken up into manageable pieces.


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## DougA (Jan 29, 2014)

Jags said:


> I felt that the ground was absorbing some of the energy.


EXACTLY. It always seemed to me that using a large stump to split on was much easily on the body.  

If the axe is going completely through the log, you need to judge which pieces need more force and which need less. That comes with experience.  I used to split a prefect and straight piece with one arm on the axe. That was enough force.

If you really want to reduce stress on the body, buy a cheap 5 to 7 tone electric. I got a good used one for $50. and I almost enjoy splitting now. Oops, guess that's hydraulics.


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## bigbarf48 (Jan 29, 2014)

I usually split on the ground. You have a longer stroke which means greater speed, so it is gonna be easier to split. I don't worry about my axe going into the ground because splitting axes don't need to be, nor should they be, sharp. They're supposed to wedge not cut

I can see that being an issue if you're using an x27, but you can always just sharpen it after a session if you really want to keep it sharp


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## Jags (Jan 29, 2014)

I have never owned a maul.  All my hand splitting was done with a long handled, heavy head axe.


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## peakbagger (Jan 29, 2014)

I split on the ground. I usually buck up the wood, flip it on its side and split it where it stands.  Heck of a lot easier to move than rounds and they pack tighter in the pickup. I have just started using an X-27 so I guess I might need to sharpen it on occasion.


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## jkowch (Jan 29, 2014)

I split on a large round.  I agree with Jags.  By splitting on the ground directly you are losing a lot of energy into the ground and not the piece you are splitting.


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## woodsman416 (Jan 29, 2014)

I split on a block whenever possible. I quarter up large rounds on the ground so I don't have to lift them. I do it carefully because of past problems in my L5-S1. I use a TimberTuff timber claw for lifting rounds and splits onto the block. 

If you want something shorter than a full round, just cut one to the height you want.


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## pen (Jan 29, 2014)

Too much lifting to put it up on a block for the amount I do.... unless the ground is very soft and then it's a short stump block from something nasty.

Been splitting a bunch lately.  Was 4 degrees the other day when I was at it,,, the ground didn't give much, trust me 

I used a block for the first several cord I did with the x27 while my buddies were splitting on the ground.  I moved to a different spot to do some splitting and only had a 1/5 or 1/6 of a cord to do so I just split on the ground.  Doing this put a pencil eraser sized nick in the x27.  Initially I was irritated at myself but went home and let the bench grinder go to work.  Long story short, I realized it is a 50 dollar and not a 250 dollar splitting tool and have split on the ground ever since, haven't bothered to sharpen it again either and have probably 25+ cords (might be quite a bit more, I've lost track) done since then..... Funny enough, have not had another nick either.

In my experience, having this thing razor sharp is overrated.  Thing still splits like a champ. 

Now, if someone were to bury my hand sharpened felling axe into the dirt for some reason, I wouldn't be a happy camper. 

pen


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## BEConklin (Jan 29, 2014)

I'm often splitting in the woods at the site of the tree so I'm splitting larger rounds in half on the ground just to get them small enough to lift onto a block - which is just another round. And when I'm done, I split up the block on the ground. 
But around here, there are so many rocks in the ground that the edge of my X27 does get knicked up in the process. ...sparks fly...everything.  
So If I had my 'drathers, I'drather not split on the ground.


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## Woodman37 (Jan 29, 2014)

I always use a block underneath. Just feels more natural that way for me.


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## Sully (Jan 29, 2014)

Just the other day I got
Some ash. Usually spits great with my x27. I wanted to do some quick splits so I just put in the snow. It split but not easy. The ground was absorbing the hit. So I graben another log and split on that with ease.


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## Studdlygoof (Jan 29, 2014)

I too split on the ground using the tractor trailer tire method with nothing under it. I split with the x27 as well and the handle usually hits the tire before the blade hits the ground saving me from having to fix knicks as often


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## Lumber-Jack (Jan 29, 2014)

We generally split all our wood on an asphalt driveway, it goes without saying we use a splitting block to help prevent damage that might occur on those glancing blows.
That being said I have split on the ground before and the problems I found with it was (a) The ground was too hard. (b) The ground was too soft.
What that means was that either the ground was rocky and when the axe or maul went through the wood it would strike the rocks and damage the edge. Or else the ground was so soft that when you struck the rounds the ground tended to cushion them and absorb the blows, making it difficult to actually split the wood. Placing another large round under the one you wanted to split gave it some backing and stability, making it easier to split. While at the same time providing protection from any rocks below.
Mind you certain types of wood are incredibly easy to split and require very little force, so having a solid backing isn't really necessary, and if you don't have to swing all that hard you don't have to worry so much about over swinging and hitting rocks.  I split some maple rounds a few years ago that were so easy to split I could have split with them one handed on top of a pile of pillows. But for other wood like knotty Douglas fir, you need a serious base to stabilize the rounds and something a little heavier than your boy scout hatchet to split it.


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## USMC80 (Jan 29, 2014)

both, depending on conditions


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## NH_Wood (Jan 29, 2014)

I agree that type of wood matters. If I buck a lot of red oak, I'm going to split them on the ground rather than lift to a block - doesn't take much effort to split the round. Red maple for example, typically gets placed on a block since, in my experience, it can be more difficult to split. As for swing, I definitely prefer the block - allowing a square hit of the axe heat. I don't really like swinging very hard at ground level rounds when the head is starting to angle toward me footsies. Cheers!


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## gerry100 (Jan 29, 2014)

I started using a block but after a few years I started just standing them up and wacking them, mainly for convenience as I do most splitting right where they are bucked.

For me it's just a matter of adjusting my stance and  swing and I find I can split long and short rounds on demand in any order.

Of course I've had 30+ years of practice.

Try thinking of it as a game of skill, every golf ball is not on a tee and every pitch isn't down the middle.


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## Hickorynut (Jan 29, 2014)

Most of my handsplitting has been on the ground because that is what's handy.  Have done some on my gravel driveway too which doesn't seem to bother the mauls too much.  When a stump is convenient and is low enough to the ground will use that some.  Do agree the ground absorbs some of the energy of the maul, especially soft ground.  Do always us a low stump when using the x27 which is delegated mostly too kindling because of it's limitations.


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## bassJAM (Jan 29, 2014)

Most of my splitting is done on a block, but occasionally I'll bust up larger pieces in the dirt before lifting them up.  It always worries me because it's next to a gravel driveway, so of course there's gravel mixed in with the dirt.  I've put a few small nicks in my x27 doing this (I really should use the maul but it's so much extra work!).  Right now my block is about 15", I think soon I'm going to cut one down to about 8" and see how it holds up.  I think that would be about the perfect height for me so that the blade hits the logs as perpendicular as possible.


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## ironpony (Jan 29, 2014)

when you develop head speed, you can leave the round laying on the ground and split it.


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## splitoak (Jan 29, 2014)

I do both as others have said...big rounds need to be split on site...i also golf swing when they hit the ground works well with x27...


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## Lumber-Jack (Jan 29, 2014)

When you do speed you can do anything. 

At least you think you can anyway.


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## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Jan 29, 2014)

On the ground for me....


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## Pat53 (Jan 29, 2014)

On the ground .... too much work and time wasted lifting big heavy rounds up on a block.


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## Coal Reaper (Jan 29, 2014)

i try to find a mostly flat rock that barely protrudes about the soil.  then i position my tractor tire so the rock is inside of it, put a round in the tire, and go to town.  handle is stopped by the sidewall of tire and head never hits the rock.  sidewall doesnt send a shock up your arms either.


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## northwinds (Jan 29, 2014)

I have a thinner large round of elm that I use as a splitting block.  But I don't use it that often.  Large rounds are a pain to lift up on top.  I split those where they
lay.   For the smaller log-like rounds, I'll lean them against the big round so that they don't fall over.  I hand split all of my wood for exercise.  I've thought about
getting a  motorized splitter, but I really enjoy hand splitting wood, except for elm which I try to avoid.


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## tsquini (Jan 29, 2014)

Studdlygoof said:


> I too split on the ground using the tractor trailer tire method with nothing under it. I split with the x27 as well and the handle usually hits the tire before the blade hits the ground saving me from having to fix knicks as often


+1 on the tire. I have to pick the round once. The tire keeps it contained and standing upright so i don't have to bend over and pick after every swing. Because of this, I only have to do quick half swing. As I chop is just slide it closer to the rounds.


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## Tom Wallace (Jan 29, 2014)

I split large rounds (> 24" diameter) on the ground. Any smaller than that, I put them on top of a large round. I use a maul and wedge to split big rounds on the ground. Once they're small enough, I use a Fiskars SS with the wood on top of a block.


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## CenterTree (Jan 29, 2014)

Tom Wallace said:


> I split large rounds (> 24" diameter) on the ground. Any smaller than that, I put them on top of a large round. I use a maul and wedge to split big rounds on the ground. Once they're small enough, I use a Fiskars SS with the wood on top of a block.


This is the way I do it too.   Big rounds on the ground with the wedge and sledge....then the managable peices go to the block for final splitting with the X27.


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## CenterTree (Jan 29, 2014)

Wow,  A lot of good replies here.  I appreciate all the input.
(I am also pleased to see that no one found it necessary to mention to _"just buy a hydraulic"_)  LOL.

I should have made this a poll.   It seems about 50/50 on ground vs block.  

I like the idea of using a tire and LETTING the axe hit the side, hence stopping it from striking the ground...I will try that too.

I did think about a flat piece of lumber...(plywood or similar), but I just can imagine it kind of "bouncing" as it would maybe wobble on uneven surface???? Don't know.

I am gonna cut a lower block (big diameter round) to maybe about 8 inches and see if it holds up.


I think it is important to keep a SHARP edge on the axe.   (maybe not a maul as much)
I just have the mindset similar to using the chainsaw >  _Soil is the enemy of a sharp cutting tool._


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## yooperdave (Jan 29, 2014)

Up until two years ago, all my splitting was done by maul only...on the ground.  Used a block many years ago for only a brief period of time and then found out it was easier and faster to split without one.  Yes, the ground does absorb part of the shock.
A couple of years ago, one of 99's neighbor came over while I had been cutting and splitting for an hour or so.  By this time I was short of breath and panting like a steam engine!  Take a break he says!  After visiting for a few minutes, I realized that this shortness of breath was directly related to splitting the wood by hand and in order to avoid it, I should buy a splitter with a shorter handle (one with an engine attached)  Life's good now.
Still do a bit of splitting by hand, again, with no block -just on bare ground.  But you know I save the big gnarly stuff for when the splitter is around.


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## VAnewbie (Jan 30, 2014)

i split with an axe and just use plywood underneath.


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## billb3 (Jan 30, 2014)

ON a stump or short big round.
Dirt here is soft and splitting on the ground would get ya a fence post hole in no time.
Where there is no dirt it is gravel and full of rocks.
( I used to  split the few splits that were too big on the concrete basement floor until inadvertantly  punched a hole in the floor. )     

Splitting directly on clay ground seems a bit easier.


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## firewoodjunky (Jan 30, 2014)

I cut and split in the woods - always on the ground, neither my maul or Fiskars have been beat up too bad. When I used to get tree service loads at my house I used a block. So maybe it is dependant on the situation. I can't really say which was better - on the ground is much faster, buck, tilt up, split, throw in the trailer.

But...splitting on a round was somewhat more satisfying for some reason - something about splits flying and piling up around the block just felt good!


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## Backwoods Savage (Jan 30, 2014)

NH_Wood said:


> I agree that type of wood matters. If I buck a lot of red oak, I'm going to split them on the ground rather than lift to a block - doesn't take much effort to split the round. Red maple for example, typically gets placed on a block since, in my experience, it can be more difficult to split. As for swing, I definitely prefer the block - allowing a square hit of the axe heat. I don't really like swinging very hard at ground level rounds when the head is starting to angle toward me footsies. Cheers!



You must be doing something wrong. I've never felt my feet were in danger.


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## Backwoods Savage (Jan 30, 2014)

Would someone please come here and find me a piece of ground that absorbs the energy?! Sorry, but our ground is very hard and will not soak up any more energy than a stump would. In addition, if I am splitting wood, no matter if it is with axe, maul or hydraulics, it will be a cold day in that other place before I lift every piece of wood before I split it. 

It is strange to me that many give the excuse of the ground soaking up energy but make no mention of the energy required to lift every log before splitting. In addition, I have watched some splitting on a block and most times when they split, one or another split will fall to the ground and then they are picking it back up to place it on the block. So which wastes more energy? Splitting on a block or letting the ground absorb a little energy?

I've also stated as have others that hitting the ground is not a concern of mine. In most cases, I know how much power it will take to split a log. If I am splitting some easy stuff, why on earth would I swing hard to push the axe or maul through the wood and into the ground. It is just like splitting with hydraulics;  on the easy splitting stuff, you don't have to run that wedge all the way through the wood! Many times you barely touch the wood with the wedge and it will split (would be nice if all were this way). So, if I'm splitting, say, soft maple or white ash (we have lots), it is rare that I would put all my muscle into a swing.

One more thing about the splitting on the ground is that as someone else wisely stated, you have a longer stroke on your swing if your log is not placed on a block. That alone gives you much more splitting power.


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## Ralphie Boy (Jan 30, 2014)

I've been using a sledge and wedges with no block for years with no problem. I just bought an X-27 so when the ice melts I'll be using a block and a tire.


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## nmaho (Jan 30, 2014)

Usually split big log on ground then move to stump


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## ClintonH (Feb 4, 2014)

I've never split on a block:  split it where it lies.  I prefer this to wrangling the large rounds:  1/4s, 1/8s, 1/16s are nicer to handle any day.  Interesting note:  I can Abe-Lincoln (log laying flat on ground rather than on end) split most ash piece 8" and smaller with my X27 XD  Bwahahaha!


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## David.Ervin (Feb 4, 2014)

The x27 is a heck of a tool.  I've been splitting on the ground when it's frozen (all the time lately) and on a piece of OSB or plywood when it's not.  I had been using a short, wide round of oak to split on until the x27 went through the block I was working up and split the oak piece too.


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## Den69RS96 (Feb 5, 2014)

I have a cheap box store 4.5 lb splitting axe and I used to split on the ground.  It took forever to split a round and usually left a nice imprint in the ground of the round.  One day I had a round big enough to use as a splitting block and the axe went through the rounds with less effort.   Ijust bought a x27 and it  splits 100 times better than my box store splitting axe.


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## Lumber-Jack (Feb 5, 2014)

yooperdave said:


> Up until two years ago, all my splitting was done by maul only...on the ground.  Used a block many years ago for only a brief period of time and then found out it was easier and faster to split without one.  Yes, the ground does absorb part of the shock.
> A couple of years ago, one of 99's neighbor came over while *I had been cutting and splitting for an hour or so.  By this time I was short of breath and panting like a steam engine!*  Take a break he says!  After visiting for a few minutes, I realized that this shortness of breath was directly related to splitting the wood by hand and in order to avoid it, I should buy a splitter with a shorter handle (one with an engine attached)  Life's good now.
> Still do a bit of splitting by hand, again, with no block -just on bare ground.  But you know I save the big gnarly stuff for when the splitter is around.


Up here we call all that panting and heavy breathing _Exercise_. Some even claim it's good for you and spend a lot of money and time trying to find ways not to avoid it.


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## red oak (Feb 5, 2014)

I do not use a chopping block or anything other than the ground.  It does not dull the maul very much but I usually sharpen it once or twice a year.  I do feel like I get more power to my swing going to the ground rather than using a block.  And I've never felt my feet were in danger.


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## blazincajun (Feb 5, 2014)

I usually split on the ground as well unless it is muddy.

Most folks don't realize that if you turn your rounds upside down it is so much easier to split. I usually mark the bottom side with a mark. Sometimes you just don't know but most times with a little study of the round you can figure which side is the bottom. Other wise, good luck


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## Lumber-Jack (Feb 5, 2014)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Would someone please come here and find me a piece of ground that absorbs the energy?! Sorry, but our ground is very hard and will not soak up any more energy than a stump would. In addition, if I am splitting wood, no matter if it is with axe, maul or hydraulics, it will be a cold day in that other place before I lift every piece of wood before I split it.
> 
> It is strange to me that many give the excuse of the ground soaking up energy but make no mention of the energy required to lift every log before splitting. In addition, I have watched some splitting on a block and most times when they split, one or another split will fall to the ground and then they are picking it back up to place it on the block. So which wastes more energy? Splitting on a block or letting the ground absorb a little energy?
> 
> ...


LOL
I think this timeless discussion must be where the term "_*different strokes for different folks*_" was started.
All I know is my chopping block has been hacked up and split apart from chopping splits on top of it. I can only imagine what my driveway and splitting maul would look like now if I wasn't using a chopping block to chop on.


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## Makers Mark (Feb 5, 2014)

Don't forget the car tires around the splitting block works a lot faster don't have to stop and stand splits up again if needing another wack.


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## STIHLY DAN (Feb 5, 2014)

I just had some 30"+ rds along with some smaller ones frozen to the ground. I split them on the ground. I found that it really bothers my back, I can feel the twinge when bent over as the pa 80 hits the round. For me its less stress on the back and no loss of power, although a rarely ever swing at 1/2 power forget full.


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## Backwoods Savage (Feb 5, 2014)

STIHLY DAN said:


> I just had some 30"+ rds along with some smaller ones frozen to the ground. I split them on the ground. I found that it really bothers my back, I can feel the twinge when bent over as the pa 80 hits the round. For me its less stress on the back and no loss of power, although a rarely ever swing at 1/2 power forget full.



No way will I do that either. But then, there is no way I'll ever play golf again either. It is plain he!! on the back; extremely painful.


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## yooperdave (Feb 5, 2014)

Lumber-Jack said:


> LOL
> I think this timeless discussion must be where the term "_*different strokes for different folks*_" was started.
> All I know is my chopping block has been hacked up and split apart from chopping splits on top of it. I can only imagine what my driveway and splitting maul would look like now if I wasn't using a chopping block to chop on.





Lumber Jack, I sure hope that isn't you in the vid you posted!!  Seems to me like the guy doing the splitting needs to learn how to swing the maul...


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## Lumber-Jack (Feb 6, 2014)

yooperdave said:


> Lumber Jack, I sure hope that isn't you in the vid you posted!!  Seems to me like the guy doing the splitting needs to learn how to swing the maul...


Guess you need to post a video and show us how to do it.


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## Craby (Feb 6, 2014)

Very good points about the rocks & knicks, tool of choice, energy lost, frozen dirt vs spongy dirt, swing speed, rubber tire, and perpendicular strike.

I think the perpendicular strike is a variable that may be brushed over and needs a closer evaluation (height at which the handle is perpendicular at impact).

I am wondering, could height play a roll and the shorter you are the more you prefer that the wood you are splitting is on the ground?

I am tall, and when I'm on a scrounge run I try to get in & out ASAP (sometimes trying to make multiple trips to beat the next guy to it) so I quarter the large rounds on the ground w/ sledge/wedge/maul so I can lift them into the truck, but I *prefer* breaking them up to split size on a block in my yard w/ the Fiskars X27 where I can take my time and enjoy the process (fast food vs restaurant).

We have tall toilets, countertops, and shower heads in my house because the average height is too low for us.

There are pros and cons to both, but I gotta figure if I were short it would feel unnatural to split on a block.


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## ArsenalDon (Feb 6, 2014)

Jags said:


> I always used a block. I felt that the ground was absorbing some of the energy.


+1


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## yooperdave (Feb 6, 2014)

Lumber-Jack said:


> Guess you need to post a video and show us how to do it.




Lumber Jack...
Here is what I am talking about as to how to swing a maul and get the most of the swing.  It starts at about 1:30 on the vid.

I started out splitting the way the person in your vid does (long long time ago), and was soon taught to split like the guy in the vid I posted.  Better use of energy and motion, no?  Only thing is with the guy in my vid, I don't think I bend my knees like he suggests...seems awkward.


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## STIHLY DAN (Feb 6, 2014)

Where is this video? I can't see one. That is a fiskers also, not a maul. They swing totally different.


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## tymbee (Feb 6, 2014)

Thank you Savage for saving me all that typing as your post sums up my sentiments re. ground vs. block EXACTLY!



Backwoods Savage said:


> Would someone please come here and find me a piece of ground that absorbs the energy?! Sorry, but our ground is very hard and will not soak up any more energy than a stump would. In addition, if I am splitting wood, no matter if it is with axe, maul or hydraulics, it will be a cold day in that other place before I lift every piece of wood before I split it.
> 
> It is strange to me that many give the excuse of the ground soaking up energy but make no mention of the energy required to lift every log before splitting. In addition, I have watched some splitting on a block and most times when they split, one or another split will fall to the ground and then they are picking it back up to place it on the block. So which wastes more energy? Splitting on a block or letting the ground absorb a little energy?
> 
> ...


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## Backwoods Savage (Feb 6, 2014)

You are welcome.


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## Jags (Feb 6, 2014)

Come on down to good farmland. I will show you ground that can absorb a good swing


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## razerface (Feb 6, 2014)

Jags said:


> Come on down to good farmland. I will show you ground that can absorb a good swing


It all depends on if the ground is frozen. If you split in my woods, it would be like a sponge if not frozen. Good black dirt!


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