# Shed Floor



## mass_burner (Mar 31, 2016)

I'm looking to build an 8x4 shed for lawn tractor, snow thrower, yard tools. 

Can I get away with 2x4 joists as a support floor?


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## Buzz Saw (Mar 31, 2016)

Probably not. The cost  difference would be very small(for your build ) to use 2x6 or even 2x8's.  I would go big. Maybe even 12" on center with 2x6's.


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## Husky (Mar 31, 2016)

Is the shed going to sit on the ground or on concrete slab?


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## mass_burner (Mar 31, 2016)

Husky said:


> Is the shed going to sit on the ground or on concrete slab?


Sitting on concrete x top blocks. This is an area where rain runs off, ground needs be sloped.


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## Husky (Mar 31, 2016)

mass_burner said:


> Sitting on concrete x top blocks. This is an area where rain runs off, ground needs be sloped.


2X6 will be plenty for an 8X4 shed sitting on concrete. I would go 2X8 if sitting on ground to give a little more clearance off the ground.


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## Buzz Saw (Mar 31, 2016)

So like this?


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## mass_burner (Mar 31, 2016)

Buzz Saw said:


> So like this?
> View attachment 177478


The ground is dirt and not that steep of a slope, more a grading made to carry rain away from the back of the house towards the front then down to the street.


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## Warm_in_NH (Apr 1, 2016)

2 x 6 is plenty 16" on center. 
4 x 8 is tiny. By time you frame walls, even if you use 2 x 3 studs, you're gonna loose 5" of floor space, so you'll be down to a 43" width.
Consider going at least 6 x 8, or 8 x 10 if you can. I'd bump up to 2 x 8 joists if you go the 8 x 10 route. 3/4" pt plywood floor will not warp and evenly spread the weight as well.
My old 8 x 8 barely held my motorcycle, push mower and some lawn tools...


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## peakbagger (Apr 1, 2016)

Keep in mind frost is going to move the structure around so you will need to relevel it on occasion unless you are on well drained soils that don't get impacted by frost. As long as you can get a jack under the floor supports to relevel it smaller supports can work. Some folks build larger sheds and put concrete supports under the center of the floor to save on joists, sound good until a few years of frost and the structure needs releveling, No way to get at the center of the floor unless you cut a hole in it.


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## mass_burner (Apr 1, 2016)

Warm_in_NH said:


> 2 x 6 is plenty 16" on center.
> 4 x 8 is tiny. By time you frame walls, even if you use 2 x 3 studs, you're gonna loose 5" of floor space, so you'll be down to a 43" width.
> Consider going at least 6 x 8, or 8 x 10 if you can. I'd bump up to 2 x 8 joists if you go the 8 x 10 route. 3/4" pt plywood floor will not warp and evenly spread the weight as well.
> My old 8 x 8 barely held my motorcycle, push mower and some lawn tools...


Yea, I've been thinking the same thing. If I went with more space, I'd go longer, 12x4. I also think slat sides and metal roof will suffice. The upper part of sheds are more wasted space. I could use 6' for stacking up patio chairs. I was planning a modern , single piece roof with ~2' pitch end to end. 10x6 with 6' to 4' ceiling would be good I think.


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## CaptSpiff (Apr 1, 2016)

mass_burner said:


> Yea, I've been thinking the same thing. If I went with more space, I'd go longer, 12x4.



Are you talking about an open faced shed?


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## mwhitnee (Apr 1, 2016)

I think mass burner is.

If it was a closed shed, I would not do 12x4 if you can avoid it. It just so difficult to get to things in the back.  You play musical shed toys all the time...


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## mass_burner (Apr 1, 2016)

mwhitnee said:


> I think mass burner is.
> 
> If it was a closed shed, I would not do 12x4 if you can avoid it. It just so difficult to get to things in the back.  You play musical shed toys all the time...


Also, I was thinking of having an opening on both ends, possibly a take down draw bridge door that would serve as a ramp or just ramps. So no back.


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## Buzz Saw (Apr 1, 2016)

Is your area for a shed limited to such a small area or is this small by choice?


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## mass_burner (Apr 2, 2016)

Buzz Saw said:


> Is your area for a shed limited to such a small area or is this small by choice?


Both. Lawn tractor, chipper, snow thrower, grills/patio chairs, yard hand tools. Just trying to get these out of the basement.


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## Warm_in_NH (Apr 2, 2016)

mass_burner said:


> Both. Lawn tractor, chipper, snow thrower, grills/patio chairs, yard hand tools. Just trying to get these out of the basement.


 I keep that stuff in part of my 12 x 24 shed, they're in about a 10 x 12 section of it and it fills up fast, gotta jockey one thing around to get another out. Usually not too bad if you load one season's tools out of the way while not in use though.

If you go with open walls or open ends switch my comment about the 3/4" plywood floor to using 5/4 x 6" PT decking as your floor so snow/ice/water won't build up and puddle.


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## mass_burner (Apr 2, 2016)

Warm_in_NH said:


> I keep that stuff in part of my 12 x 24 shed, they're in about a 10 x 12 section of it and it fills up fast, gotta jockey one thing around to get another out. Usually not too bad if you load one season's tools out of the way while not in use though.
> 
> If you go with open walls or open ends switch my comment about the 3/4" plywood floor to using 5/4 x 6" PT decking as your floor so snow/ice/water won't build up and puddle.



Right, in spring/summer/fall no patio furniture. In winter, no snow thrower, but patio furniture will take up a lot of space, but chairs can be stacked up and packed in, as I won't need anything til spring.
K


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## Highbeam (Apr 6, 2016)

mass_burner said:


> I'm looking to build an 8x4 shed for lawn tractor, snow thrower, yard tools.
> 
> Can I get away with 2x4 joists as a support floor?



Of course you can use 2x4 joists. But by the time you put them close enough together to get adequate support you would be better off costwise to use 2x6 which are very cheap since they are so common in house construction.

It appears that you are trying to do this on a single sheet of plywood. It's just way too small for a shed. My chicken coop sits atop a single 4x8 sheet of plywood. It's too dang small for the chickens, much less a meaningful shed. Your shed will be more like a closet which can be very useful so if that's what you have to work with, we can make a useful closet.

In your closet you'll want closet doors that open on the 8' side so that you can reach back and hang things on the wall without actually entering the closet.

You can move bicycles out to the closet too by mounting hooks high on the wall to store the bikes vertically.


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## mass_burner (Apr 6, 2016)

Highbeam said:


> Of course you can use 2x4 joists. But by the time you put them close enough together to get adequate support you would be better off costwise to use 2x6 which are very cheap since they are so common in house construction.
> 
> It appears that you are trying to do this on a single sheet of plywood. It's just way too small for a shed. My chicken coop sits atop a single 4x8 sheet of plywood. It's too dang small for the chickens, much less a meaningful shed. Your shed will be more like a closet which can be very useful so if that's what you have to work with, we can make a useful closet.
> 
> ...



Yes, I will be using 2x6. I only need to store tractor, yard tools, chipper, and whatever patio furniture will fit it. I want to be able drive in from either side. 

I might go 12x4.


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## Highbeam (Apr 6, 2016)

mass_burner said:


> Yes, I will be using 2x6. I only need to store tractor, yard tools, chipper, and whatever patio furniture will fit it. I want to be able drive in from either side.
> 
> I might go 12x4.



What the heck is a lawn "tractor"? Do you mean a riding lawn mower? I have one of those and with the 42" deck It won't fit inside your closet. The 42" deck has the chute on the side that makes it over 4' wide. Have you checked your width? You'd not want to cut this close either, maybe an extra 6-12" on each side?


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## mass_burner (Apr 6, 2016)

Highbeam said:


> What the heck is a lawn "tractor"? Do you mean a riding lawn mower? I have one of those and with the 42" deck It won't fit inside your closet. The 42" deck has the chute on the side that makes it over 4' wide. Have you checked your width? You'd not want to cut this close either, maybe an extra 6-12" on each side?


Yes, ride mower, JD 170, 36" at its widest point on the deck. I'm liking "closet", think I'll name her that.


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## Highbeam (Apr 6, 2016)

mass_burner said:


> Yes, ride mower, JD 170, 36" at its widest point on the deck. I'm liking "closet", think I'll name her that.



So if you use 2x4's for the walls then you are down to 48-7 for 41 inches. Max. 2.5" on each side. My shoe is wider than that so you won't be able to step off of the mower beside the deck.

Just don't come out of the closet.


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## Warm_in_NH (Apr 6, 2016)

Highbeam said:


> So if you use 2x4's for the walls then you are down to 48-7 for 41 inches. Max. 2.5" on each side. My shoe is wider than that so you won't be able to step off of the mower beside the deck.
> 
> Just don't come out of the closet.



6 months from now, new post will be titled, "what's the best way to dismantle a shed to build a bigger one?"


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## mass_burner (Apr 6, 2016)

Warm_in_NH said:


> 6 months from now, new post will be titled, "what's the best way to dismantle a shed to build a bigger one?"


I may not have walls, only slats like a wood shed. I'm probably going 6 x 10. I have an 8x10 shed at my other house and it holds quite a bit I n the first 6', although its 12' high with a loft.


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## Warm_in_NH (Apr 7, 2016)

"tap...tap..." okay, I've officially tapped out of this thread. 
Stand by what I said, agree with Highbeams comments as well. 
You obviously have your mind set on what you want, you asked about the floor joists, question was answered. 
I would however really like to see a picture of the long narrow tall shed once it's completed.
Good luck!


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## mass_burner (Apr 8, 2016)

Warm_in_NH said:


> "tap...tap..." okay, I've officially tapped out of this thread.
> Stand by what I said, agree with Highbeams comments as well.
> You obviously have your mind set on what you want, you asked about the floor joists, question was answered.
> I would however really like to see a picture of the long narrow tall shed once it's completed.
> Good luck!


I hear ya, near tapped out myself. I'm gonna put down a floor and then play a bit of jazz on the walls. Leaving some things unplanned makes life more interested.


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## mass_burner (Apr 11, 2016)

Hmmm, I was thinking, maybe I could piggy back off the existing woodshed. The woodshed side faces where I want the new shed. I'd save building one wall and footings for one end. It's 5" wide there, figure I'd go out 12' from there.


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## Highbeam (Apr 11, 2016)

Thread creep is fun. It's expected and okay, obviously the initial question was answered but there are more opportunities for discussion.

You can tap out at any time without informing us.


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## mass_burner (Apr 11, 2016)

Highbeam said:


> Thread creep is fun. It's expected and okay, obviously the initial question was answered but there are more opportunities for discussion.
> 
> You can tap out at any time without informing us.


Yea, it didn't occur to me until I was looking at it again this weekend. 

Better thread creep than a creepy thread!


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## mass_burner (May 10, 2016)

"Dry fit". View from both ends. This is 8x10. That might do it.


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## Don2222 (May 12, 2016)

mass_burner said:


> I'm looking to build an 8x4 shed for lawn tractor, snow thrower, yard tools.
> 
> Can I get away with 2x4 joists as a support floor?


You can get away with 2x4s fine since my whole house was built with 2x4s there is no reason you cannot use them for a small shed! Also if you dig 2 foot holes under each cinder block and fill them with 3/4" stone then you do not need fancy cement underneath! I did that with my shed and leveled the blocks with a cheap water level and never needed one shim when the floor was built! Also the shed has stayed perfectly level for 5 years without sagging

Here are pics of my shed build
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...m-channel-under-the-rake-boards-is-for.70576/

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...or-10-2-uf-b-and-is.76717/page-6#post-1451052


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## mass_burner (Aug 26, 2016)

Okay, here's where I am now. I'm really winging it here folks. I was tempted to leave it with no walls, like a gazebo, it will be practically empty in summer, so I could put up a hammock in there. But wife wanted a wall facing the street, so I put the wood wall there. Not sure what I'm doing with the other walls.


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## mass_burner (Sep 24, 2016)

Added the  side wall facing the house and made a sliding front door. I also made a matchibg fixed door that I will put on once in winter and remove in spring.


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## semipro (Sep 28, 2016)

I really like the way the corrugated metal looks for the walls.


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## mass_burner (Sep 28, 2016)

semipro said:


> I really like the way the corrugated metal looks for the walls.


Thanks man. It really is the cheapest option also at $12 per sheet. On the far wall i attached some 3/4 ply I got for $10, cause it was cut wrong in the store.

I'm keeping a tally of total costs.


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