# Septic Systems



## earl764 (Nov 21, 2013)

Hello,

Not sure if this exactly fits, but since this is environmentally related I thought why not.

I need a new septic system as my existing system has totally failed from the exit pipe of the tank on. This was confirmed by excavating down 7' to the existing system.

Regulations require a whole new system be designed/installed to current code. The existing system is from the late 1940's.

My contractor is scheduled to do some test holes next week & a perc test w/ someone from the health dept.

My ground is all gravel w/ exceptional drainage, so I do not anticipate any big issues with their tests.

After he does that he can do some designs and give me the price. I already have a ball-park range.

One option he told me was a Mantis system. Google turns up this:

http://www.eljen.com/Pages/MantisGSF/Mantisoverview.html

It appears that the system can perform an equivalent amount of work in less space than traditional designs and can be cheaper.

Anyone ever heard of this? Looking for any thoughts/ideas folks may have.

Thanks.


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## Circus (Nov 22, 2013)

Not a response to Mantis brand leach field.
I've heard good things about adding an aerator (aerobic) to conventional septics (anaerobic). Given time, it's actually cleared old clogged failed septics.
I'm not a plumber.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aerobic_treatment_system


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## Ehouse (Nov 22, 2013)

Around here a repair doesn't trigger a redesign.  If your tank is good fixing or even replacing the leachfield would be ok without an engineered solution.


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## velvetfoot (Nov 22, 2013)

I'm not an expert, but I'd steer away from anything electric, or even 'fancy'.  The existing system was from the 40's?  That's a pretty good life.


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## peakbagger (Nov 22, 2013)

Presby Environmental manufactures septic tank components up in northern NH. They are quite popular in the region as its hard to find a large flat area to put a conventional field. The size of the leach field is about half that of a conventional one. The lateral design is superior to a conventional system. Even if someone abuses the system and lets solids into the field, the slot design of the laterals allows it to keep running. The use of the polypropylene matting on the outside of the lateral also improve the efficiency. I hope my system lasts a lot longer but if I do need to build a new system I would go with their design.

By the way, they want to sell an entire system but I believe you can just retrofit the laterals if the tank is good.

They are kind of picky on who installs their products so finding a licensed contractor may be an issue in CT but its worth checking.


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## btuser (Nov 22, 2013)

If you've got good ground and the room I would do a conventional system.  Get prices but if you're not trying to cope with bad conditions I don't see the advantage.  Whether or not you need an aerator  (white pipe sticking up through the field, providing a continuous vent all the way to your roof that encourages aerobic bacteria growth) can depend on the height of the leech field, but nowadays it's pretty much a "mandatory" mine-as-well-doit thing.  After talking to a few designers I was thinking of adding one to my own field.  It was 2 yrs old when we bought and had failed after only 15 years due to a broken/missing baffle.  

Sometimes it's not the design of the system that can be to blame. The first thing I did when I moved into my house was to replace the toilets with low-flush models, the shower/sink heads with low gpm flow models, and get a front loading washing machine.  Another thing was to disable the sprinkler heads that spray directly over the leech field and cut down a number of trees that were shading the area.


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## dmmoss51 (Nov 22, 2013)

If your septic is operating properly and you have good perc/drainage would the low flow plumbming components be necessary or even desired?  I would think that a greater liquid to solid ratio would keep things movng so to speak and actually prevent a backup as opposed to using less water and having a thicker sludge.  Wonder what other thoughts are, I come to this viewpoint just thinking common sense and there are probably experts out there that can explain better why this is right or wrong.

(low flow plumbing being desired from a save the septic standpoint, not a save water standpoint)


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## btuser (Nov 22, 2013)

dmmoss51 said:


> If your septic is operating properly and you have good perc/drainage would the low flow plumbming components be necessary or even desired?  I would think that a greater liquid to solid ratio would keep things movng so to speak and actually prevent a backup as opposed to using less water and having a thicker sludge.  Wonder what other thoughts are, I come to this viewpoint just thinking common sense and there are probably experts out there that can explain better why this is right or wrong.
> 
> (low flow plumbing being desired from a save the septic standpoint, not a save water standpoint)


Not an expert, but I know my sh*t.

A septic tank has two compartments connected by a baffle.   As sludge settles in the first side, clearer liquid spills over (or rises up) to the second side and flows out through another baffle into to the leech field.  90% of the digestion occurs by anaerobic bacteria in the sludge, but any effluent that gets past the tank will hopefully be taken care of by aerobic activity in the leech field, otherwise the field would quickly clog.  There are 4 rules for a happy septic:

1.  Reduction of solids:  If you've got a garbage disposal don't use it unless you must, but keep in mind every bit adds up.  Other than that I guess there ain't much to do about reduction.  Coffee grinds and lint are non-digestible.  So are egg shells. 
2.  Reduction of liquids:  Solids need time to settle in the tank.  The longer the better, and the less making it into the leech field
3.  Reduction of caustic chemicals:  Limit bleach and other caustic chemicals that kill the good bacteria doing all the work.  Don't bother with additives like ridd-x or whatever else, but I have heard it can be used to jump-start a culture (have also heard it to be harmful). 
4.  Avoid compacting/watering the leech field.  Ironically there's a lot of air under the ground (think plant roots).  If you drive or compact the area it's not good for it.  If the soil is saturated less air gets to it.

So believe it or not, less use means longer life.  Bleach is bad.  A top-loading washer will dump 40 gallons quickly into the tank.  We pump our tank every 2 years, and I dig up the cover to peer inside (why oh why do I have to look!) to check the baffle.  It's  the most important part of the system, without which the field will clog very quickly.


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## dmmoss51 (Nov 22, 2013)

Thanks for the advice!


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## Retired Guy (Nov 22, 2013)

We had our system fail a couple of years ago and because of local codes requiring greater leaching area with the current design, we couldn't rebuild it. The codes did allow reduced leaching area if we used a dosing tank.


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## stee6043 (Nov 22, 2013)

I find opinions and "what works for people" in the septic system discussion can be as dynamic as a good ole Ford vs Chevy debate.

I've got a septic system new in 2003.  Just about every bit of food our family doesn't eat ends up down our disposal and into the septic system.  After six years since the last cleanout I had the tanks pumped this past spring.  The guy cleaning the pump (who also knew his $hit, no pun intended) indicated my tanks looked fantastic other than the baby wipes floating on the top.  He did suggest I not wait another 6 years just as a general rule but apparently all that food I send into my tanks had no measurable impact on septic health.  Everything looked like it should look, cleaned up very nicely, and I got a nice education on the system from the guy.  The lecture on why baby wipes were bad was quite informative.

Back on topic, my parents had a drainfield replaced with existing tanks remaining in place a while back. I don't see why you couldn't leave your tanks if it's the field that failed.  You may want to double check...


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## EJL923 (Nov 22, 2013)

Without knowing anything about other types of systems, i would stay conventional if room permits.  Its a proven and simple system.  If you know enough people that can speak to the other system then by all means...  Make sure an effluent filter is installed.  Its a plastic rinseable filter that sits in the baffle that keeps large debris from getting into the leach field should whatever it is get into the baffle.  Its cheap insurance.  I rinse it twice a year.


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## earl764 (Nov 22, 2013)

Hello,

Lots of replies, thanks. 

My 1940s system has some issues. We suspected the drain pipe from the tank to the field had failed. 

When they dug 7' down they found:

1. The tank was leaking. 
2. The drain pipe was cracked. 
3. I had no field - the pipe went to a concrete dry well. 

There was massive bio matting and the water wouldn't drain. 

The system had some sort of repair in the mid 70's. Looks like it finally died. 

Interesting all the experiences people have. We're rationing water use until the new system goes in. 

I'm thinking I will go conventional for the new system. 

Thanks.


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## sesmith (Nov 22, 2013)

earl764 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I need a new septic system as my existing system has totally failed from the exit pipe of the tank on. This was confirmed by excavating down 7' to the existing system.
> .



Before you condemn the whole system, have you taken the 1st 10 feet or so of the existing outlet pipe out by the tank?  Had a similar problem with our system.  Found that the outlet pipe from the tank was clogged very close to the tank.  We broke out about 10' of the clay tile pipe by the tank and replaced it with plastic pipe.  That was about 20 years ago and it's been fine since.  Anyone else, but the guy who came out and helped me, could have easily convinced me I needed a new system.  Not saying that this is your problem, but it might be worth checking if you haven't looked at it more closely than just digging it up.

Edit:  Just noticed your reply above mine.  We must have been replying about the same time.  Sounds like you have more problems than can be fixed without replacement.


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## flyingcow (Nov 23, 2013)

btuser said:


> Not an expert, but I know my sh*t.
> 
> A septic tank has two compartments connected by a baffle.   As sludge settles in the first side, clearer liquid spills over (or rises up) to the second side and flows out through another baffle into to the leech field.  90% of the digestion occurs by anaerobic bacteria in the sludge, but any effluent that gets past the tank will hopefully be taken care of by aerobic activity in the leech field, otherwise the field would quickly clog.  There are 4 rules for a happy septic:
> 
> ...




very good advice. Even though there have been ok results with garbage disposal, i still wouldn't do it. Over time, it will cause problems, not worth the risk.

Use basic 2-ply TP. much easier on the system than quilted perfume coated TP. Never really understood the perfume on TP. Baby wipes are a big no no.

I pump my tank every 4 yrs......every prez election yr. Easy to remember, i hold my nose when i get the tank pumped and i hold my nose when i vote.

My 2 cents, if you've got good drainage, I would put in as  simple as system as possible.


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## Hogwildz (Nov 23, 2013)

My folks have a disposal on their sink, and a septic system. Not one issue since the house was built in 1984.
Tank is pumped every 3 years.
Not saying some folks won't have an issue with a disposal hooked up, but obviously not all do.


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## bioman (Nov 23, 2013)

Try some H2O2, it will eradicate your problem.


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## Highbeam (Nov 24, 2013)

btuser said:


> Whether or not you need an aerator  (white pipe sticking up through the field, providing a continuous vent all the way to your roof that encourages aerobic bacteria growth) can depend on the height of the leech field, but nowadays it's pretty much a "mandatory" mine-as-well-doit thing.  After talking to a few designers I was thinking of adding one to my own field.


 
That is NOT an aerator. An aerator is an separate tank with an elctric blower that mechanically aerates the effluent from the septic tank in hopes of setting up an aerobic digestion and keeping those bacteria working. Aerobic bugs eat fast. Those white tubes you see out in the field are just inspection ports so that you can verify that your laterals are not holding water.


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## btuser (Nov 26, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> That is NOT an aerator. An aerator is an separate tank with an elctric blower that mechanically aerates the effluent from the septic tank in hopes of setting up an aerobic digestion and keeping those bacteria working. Aerobic bugs eat fast. Those white tubes you see out in the field are just inspection ports so that you can verify that your laterals are not holding water.


You're right, an aerator is something different.  I should have called it a vent.


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## earl764 (Nov 26, 2013)

For those keeping score I received the final cost. 

15K.


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## altmartion (Nov 26, 2013)

btuser said:


> Not an expert, but I know my sh*t.
> 
> A septic tank has two compartments connected by a baffle.   As sludge settles in the first side, clearer liquid spills over (or rises up) to the second side and flows out through another baffle into to the leech field.  90% of the digestion occurs by anaerobic bacteria in the sludge, but any effluent that gets past the tank will hopefully be taken care of by aerobic activity in the leech field, otherwise the field would quickly clog.  There are 4 rules for a happy septic:
> 
> ...


why do you say not to use ridx? I do a few septics a year and as you said I always use it for start up of a new system if I can't pump the old into the new. I also use it on systems that sit idle for months at a time. as far as once a month, no. unless you do a ton of laundry or use a ton od chemicals. I am just curious whay you don't use it.


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## EJL923 (Nov 26, 2013)

I had a conventional system installed in 2009, 1500 gallon tank and new field for $8000.  I know soil conditions could be different, but i still wouldn't expect a cost difference like that.  And yes it was done right, designed by an engineer and inspected by the town.


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## earl764 (Nov 26, 2013)

Apparently a few things factor into my cost. 

Code requirements. X number of feet tank, etc need to be from basement, slab addition, property line. 

I missed out on saving a few K due to feet restrictions. 

Doh.


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## oldspark (Nov 26, 2013)

altmartion said:


> why do you say not to use ridx? I do a few septics a year and as you said I always use it for start up of a new system if I can't pump the old into the new. I also use it on systems that sit idle for months at a time. as far as once a month, no. unless you do a ton of laundry or use a ton od chemicals. I am just curious whay you don't use it.


 
Well I went on a quest to find that answer one year, both online and talking to the county I live in and the info I found was there is way more then enough bacteria in your crap, no need to add anything under any circumstances. I was adding an additive to mine and not pumping it out every 2 years and some of the crap turned to soil, not good.


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## Highbeam (Nov 26, 2013)

altmartion said:


> why do you say not to use ridx? I do a few septics a year and as you said I always use it for start up of a new system if I can't pump the old into the new. I also use it on systems that sit idle for months at a time. as far as once a month, no. unless you do a ton of laundry or use a ton od chemicals. I am just curious whay you don't use it.


 
I am a civil engineer, this crap is my bread and butter. The first turd has more than enough bugs and bacteria to do the job. The only thing that ridx or any other septic additive will do is lighten your wallet.

The common ones won't damage anything so you don't have to go and fix your mistake, but you didn't accomplish anything.


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## btuser (Nov 26, 2013)

earl764 said:


> For those keeping score I received the final cost.
> 
> 15K.


Is that for a new leech field or does it include the tank as well?  15k is really not that crazy for a working system.  I've seen/heard prices go much higher depending on circumstances.

Sorry you've got to flush the money so you can flush other things. As someone who has survived the alternative (bad/no septic! as well as tree roots in the main line) I can say piece of mind is money well spent. In my area sewer works out to about 2k/year with average water use, so if a septic is healthy it's adds value to the property vs paying monthly.


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## earl764 (Nov 26, 2013)

15K for the whole thing.

1. new exit pipe for the basement.
2. piping to the tank.
3. new tank.
4. new field.

old tank will be collapsed and filled in.


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## semipro (Nov 27, 2013)

I'd consider using using a lint filter at your clothes washer and a filter between the tank and field; something that can be accessed easily and cleaned with a hose.
Lint from synthetic clothes doesn't degrade in the tank, may not settle well, and may work its way out to your field where it can clog the small exit holes in the drain pipes.


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## USMC80 (Nov 27, 2013)

15K sounds good,  Mine was 26k three years ago


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## oldspark (Nov 27, 2013)

USMC80 said:


> 15K sounds good,  Mine was 26k three years ago


 
Boy that sounds high, I was quoted about 8 thousand one and a half years ago.


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## USMC80 (Nov 27, 2013)

25k average price where I'm at in NJ.  Sucks


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## oldspark (Nov 27, 2013)

I guess you people in NJ have more money then us Iowa folks.


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## USMC80 (Nov 27, 2013)

oldspark said:


> I guess you people in NJ have more money then us Iowa folks.


LOL.  Someone thinks so I guess


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## Highbeam (Nov 27, 2013)

semipro said:


> I'd consider using using a lint filter at your clothes washer and a filter between the tank and field; something that can be accessed easily and cleaned with a hose.
> Lint from synthetic clothes doesn't degrade in the tank, may not settle well, and may work its way out to your field where it can clog the small exit holes in the drain pipes.


 
Good idea but lint won't clog the exit holes, it will form a mat on the soil surface that will slow or stop infiltration of effluent. Once that drainfield can no longer absorb water it fails.


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## Michael Golden (Nov 27, 2013)

Installed my own aerator septic with 420' of leech for just under $3000! Had to take simple test through the health dept. and then they had to come and inspect. It is really a very easy job and only took about 16 hours from start to finish with two guys.


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## osagebow (Nov 28, 2013)

When we bought our house there was a big ugly hole in the yard from a failed pond project. Used it to make a dry well for all the grey water. Hand dug a 30' long, 3' deep trench to it that doubles as a french drain for the yard and gutters.  That was fun.
It has worked great. We only have a 750 gallon tank, and have pumped it every 4 years.


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## Highbeam (Nov 29, 2013)

Michael Golden said:


> Installed my own aerator septic with 420' of leech for just under $3000! Had to take simple test through the health dept. and then they had to come and inspect. It is really a very easy job and only took about 16 hours from start to finish with two guys.


 
I wish this stuff was that cheap and easy. You must have great soils and a very relaxed AHJ.


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## Michael Golden (Nov 29, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> I wish this stuff was that cheap and easy. You must have great soils and a very relaxed AHJ.



What "stuff"? It was a aerator system with 420ft of leech, my soil is actually not that good. I hit some clay here and there, that is why I had to go 400 ft instead 200ft. It just shows how much things are marked up when you get someone else doing the work. I had two estimates one was $8500 and the other $10500. That right there is money in the bank!


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## Mackman (Dec 2, 2013)

House built in the 1940s and it had a septic system??  Most houses around here (SE PA) would have had cesspools.  By the way i do own a septic company.  www.bmwastewater.com.  Mods if im not allowed to post links sorry.

The best thing you can do for a septic is pump it every 2-3 years.  Also i do agree Rid-x or any other type off stuff like that is a joke.  A good working septic doesn't need anything added to it.


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## Mackman (Dec 2, 2013)

New septics around here are about 12-17,000 for a basic system.  Then if you get into sand monds or drip irrigation can get upwards of 30,000+


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## semipro (Dec 2, 2013)

Mackman said:


> The best thing you can do for a septic is pump it every 2-3 years.


Sounds a lot like the recommendation to change engine oil every 3000 miles. 
If loading is light why pump so often?  Say like my parents living in a 4 bedroom house, just the two of them. 
It would seem that as long as solids levels stay low enough that they don't exit the tank and enter the field there's no harm in extending pumping intervals.


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## Mackman (Dec 2, 2013)

semipro said:


> Sounds a lot like the recommendation to change engine oil every 3000 miles.
> If loading is light why pump so often?  Say like my parents living in a 4 bedroom house, just the two of them.
> It would seem that as long as solids levels stay low enough that they don't exit the tank and enter the field there's no harm in extending pumping intervals.




2 people i say no longer then 5 years.  I charge 235.00 up to 1,500 gallons.  Most tanks in my area are 1,000 or 1,250 gallons.  So the way i look at it is 235.00 is going to make sure there are no solids in the tank.  Thats a cheap piece of mind.  But if you want to gamble to save 235.00 it could cost you big $$$.  Then you would have wished you spent 235.00 every 3-5 years.  

Plus the homeowner has no way to really tell how much solids are in a tank.  Do they have a garbage disposal??  Do they have alot of guests over??  Do they flush wipes?etc.  There is alot of variables that go into it.  The avg. life for a septic system is around 20 years give or take.  I seen them fail at 12 years and last over 45 years.  Its all about maintenance.   Just like a car engine.


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## Beer Belly (Dec 3, 2013)

We sold a home a few years back, and the buyers were more worried about "is there any paranormal activity", than they were about testing a 1953 Septic System....2 years later they dropped 20K into a new system. One of the selling points to our current home was that a sewer line was under way.....granted, we now have an assessment of 22K, but that is over a 20 year period, and getting quotes of $3,500- $4,000 to hook up....oh yeah, then you get the "usage" bill......to us, it's worth the cost to have the option.


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## oldspark (Dec 3, 2013)

semipro said:


> Sounds a lot like the recommendation to change engine oil every 3000 miles.
> If loading is light why pump so often?  Say like my parents living in a 4 bedroom house, just the two of them.
> It would seem that as long as solids levels stay low enough that they don't exit the tank and enter the field there's no harm in extending pumping intervals.


 
Well we dug mine up to fix a pipe going into it a few years ago and part of the crap had changed to dirt (compost) and had to be dug out, I pump every 2 years to be on the safe side.


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## semipro (Dec 3, 2013)

Mackman said:


> Plus the homeowner has no way to really tell how much solids are in a tank. Do they have a garbage disposal?? Do they have alot of guests over?? Do they flush wipes?etc. There is alot of variables that go into it. The avg. life for a septic system is around 20 years give or take. I seen them fail at 12 years and last over 45 years. Its all about maintenance. Just like a car engine.



I guess that's my point to: "there are a lot of variables".  I get your point on the cheap cost of maintenance versus replacement though. 
We've pumped twice in 12 years for our family of four and each time the solids level was feet below the outlet.  
I don't understand why inspection ports aren't built into systems so that you can check the inlet/outlet and sludge level.  
I'd rather pay someone to come out and check solids levels with a "Sludge Judge" than to pay for pumping that may not be needed. 

To your point "Its all about maintenance" I have to disagree somewhat.  I think a good deal of what determines how long a system lasts has to do with how well it was originally designed/built.  In many cases owners do "maintenance" often because the system is not handling the loading it should .  In many cases this is because the drain field is inadequate given soil conditions.


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## oldspark (Dec 3, 2013)

I do have risers on mine where I can keep an eye on it, I just let it go too long once, not going to happen again.


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## Adios Pantalones (Dec 3, 2013)

Wife and I moved in to our 3 BR (built in '79) house in 2002, septic was pumped at that time. I had them do it last year- first time, no issues. One must calculate their crap-load. If you have a couple 350#ers, and a slew of kids flushing toys down the toilet- YMMV.


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## maple1 (Dec 3, 2013)

We just had our tank pumped this past summer for the first time since we moved in almost 18 years ago. I knew I was way overdue, but just kept putting it off - mainly because the tank was covered over with I wasn't sure how much dirt & exactly where. Anyway, the system was & still is working OK, but he left with a heavy truck load, and that pump did some major thrashing. And I don't really know what kind of shape our field is in now, and won't until there's a problem - we've (family of 5) sent a ton of water through it over the years via the washers (clothes & dish), I'm sure some fines got sent to the field. But a septic system should last a long time as long as it is used & maintained right. Ours wasn't and it's almost 20 years in now with a freshly emptied tank - it won't be that long next time, for sure.

Oh yeah - don't flush baby wipes no matter how biodegradable the packaging says they are. There was a big mess of them in our tank, and our youngest kid is 14 now.

I also don't think I would sweat going 10 years between pumpings if there was only 2 in the house - unless your tank is undersized.


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## Mackman (Dec 3, 2013)

Wipes are turning into a major problem.  Even for people tied into sewer.  The treatment plants are having a hard time with them as well.  here is a good write up about them damn wipes 

http://www.pumper.com/editorial/2013/06/wipe_out


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## oldspark (Dec 3, 2013)

maple1 said:


> I also don't think I would sweat going 10 years between pumpings if there was only 2 in the house - unless your tank is undersized.


 
Chart on page 6 on how often you should pump out the tank.
http://www.nesc.wvu.edu/pdf/WW/publications/pipline/PL_FA95.pdf


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## maple1 (Dec 3, 2013)

Interesting - hadn't seen that chart before.

So with a 1000 gallon tank (our size), a family of 5 is 2 years & family of 2 is 6 years.

Given how long we went (ya, it was way too long), I'd likely not be too awful worried about going 10 years if we were 2 people.


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## oldspark (Dec 3, 2013)

Well if you wait too long and you have a problem you will regret it, peace of mind is priceless.


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## Mackman (Dec 3, 2013)

oldspark said:


> Well if you wait too long and you have a problem you will regret it, peace of mind is priceless.




Samething i tell all my customers.  For a 235.00 pump every few years is it really worth possibly ruining your drain field over it??  Plus if you have a pump tank the sludge may get into the pump tank then after awhile your pump will fail over it.


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## btuser (Dec 3, 2013)

It's worth it to pull the cover and see what's going on in there.  

Stuff happens.


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## Swedishchef (Dec 3, 2013)

In Quebec provincial regulations recommend you empty the tank every 2 years. Some towns include the pumping service in your property tax (not here). Unfortunately there is only ONE company that empties tanks around here: $460 a hit.

I have a standard system, 750 gallon tank and emptied it after 3 years. it could have waited but I would rather be safe than sorry: chit backing up in a house mid january when it is -25C outside would not be on my "top 10 favorite memories" list.

On another note, a standard install around here costs about $6K.

Andrew

PS: anyone else have a filter on the exit of the tank that requires to be cleaned every 6 months? It prevents blockage of the septic field.


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## maple1 (Dec 4, 2013)

460? Eeesh. You should buy a pumper & take a course - sounds like an opportunity there.

My folks got theirs pumped when we did (same driveway). Cost us around $350 for both at same time.

I thought about a filter, but I would have had to break out some of a divider to get one in, and build a riser & manhole - so instead I just settled for building up a riser to get to the main cleanout to make it easier to pump to help take the procrastination out of next time. The effluent filter is mandatory here now on new tank installs.


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## firefighterjake (Dec 4, 2013)

After reading of the prices here I think I have it pretty good . . . I called around and I think I paid a little less than $125 for a pumping this Summer.


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## firebroad (Dec 4, 2013)

My pump out cost $89 three years ago.  And thanks to Mackman's link, I should only have to pump out over twelve years!  But I will do it every 5, just for peace of mind.
My washing machine water goes out separately as grey water along with the utility tub water.  The previous residents had to have a new septic tank and field installed (about 20 years ago), and they put 6 inch pvc pipe out to the back yard about 100 feet away.  You can see the exit, but it doesn't get too soggy, so it might be perforated at some point.  Anyway, it, along with the softener regen water, doesn't go in the septic tank.  There may be an issue if I ever sell the place, but I will worry about it when the time comes.  Right now I see no problems.


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## Mackman (Dec 4, 2013)

Septic pumping prices range big time from one state to the next.  I was talking to a guy last year in AK who was charging 600 for 1,000 gallons.  But he also had a 500 mile round trip to the treatment plant where he dumped.  So you have to charge prices like that just to stay in business.   Then again where i live im never further away then about 25 miles from the treatment plant whee i dump.  

I pay 1.8 cents a gallon to dump.  But i have seen other plants charge upwards of 25 cents a gallon to dump.


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## firebroad (Dec 4, 2013)

Here's the odd thing:  Company not one mile from me wanted $295.  The company that cost $89 is two counties and nearly 80 miles away.  The local landfill, where guy #1 would dump, is less than 4 miles from here.
But Carroll County charges $$ for everything.  I have to contract my own trash pick-up, even though we pay the most taxes for our state; I have started taking my own trash to the dump, which costs $6 per car load.  Luckily, I only have to go once every month or two, and that's only because of non-compostable fats that get rancid and stinky.


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## heat seeker (Dec 4, 2013)

it just cost me $299 for a 1250 gallon tank and inspection of the baffles. He suggests I pump every three years (2 adults here) if only for baffle inspection.


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## Swedishchef (Dec 4, 2013)

Sweet Jebus. I love getting ripped off. But it's the only company around here. The best part: he is grandfathered to previous environmental regulations: he doesn't have to bring it anywhere to dump: he pours it into a big seepage system that has existed for 30 years. His competition is the same price but drives 600 miles return every 2 weeks to empty and pays for a disposal fee.


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## maple1 (Dec 4, 2013)

firebroad said:


> that's only because of non-compostable fats that get rancid and stinky.


 
Those burn pretty good.


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## EJL923 (Dec 4, 2013)

Its just me and my wife with a 1500 gal tank, we went three years without pumping from a new system install and the guy said we could have gone five.  I will stick with 3, its only $220.  I also clean the effluent filter in the spring and fall.  it takes me about 15 minutes from start to finish and is great peace of mind knowing there is nothing clogging the outlet and no leaks in the tank.


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## Highbeam (Dec 5, 2013)

You can add an effluent filter to the outlet of your tank outside of the tank, they are also sold as a separate device so you don't have to jack around with your tanks internal baffling. I have one and the dang things needs attention frequently, like monthly, even after a pumping. It plugs up with black gooey stuff that looks more like lint and probably is. A plugging effluent filter is a good thing, beats the heck out of that same schmagma plugging my drainfield.


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## semipro (Dec 5, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> You can add an effluent filter to the outlet of your tank outside of the tank, they are also sold as a separate device so you don't have to jack around with your tanks internal baffling. I have one and the dang things needs attention frequently, like monthly, even after a pumping. It plugs up with black gooey stuff that looks more like lint and probably is. A plugging effluent filter is a good thing, beats the heck out of that same schmagma plugging my drainfield.


Any recommendations on types, brands, installation?
I'm planning to install one outside the tank as you suggest.


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## Mackman (Dec 5, 2013)

can you post a picture or the name of the filter.  I been doing this for around 10 years and never heard or seen a eff. filter outside the tank.  But then again i come across stuff i never knew about on a weekly basis it seems lol


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## Highbeam (Dec 5, 2013)

Mackman said:


> can you post a picture or the name of the filter.  I been doing this for around 10 years and never heard or seen a eff. filter outside the tank.  But then again i come across stuff i never knew about on a weekly basis it seems lol


 
https://www.thenaturalhome.com/septicfilter.htm

The first one I found with a google search. Simply a small basin outside of the main tank in which the typical in-tank effluent filter is installed. You can imagine how easy this would be to fabircate on site out of readily available materials. I have seen other more advanced inline filters but the principle is always the same.


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## EJL923 (Dec 6, 2013)

I'm not a septic expert, but for me having the filter inside the tank keeps any possible clogs, well, inside the tank.  Just my opinion though.


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## firebroad (Dec 6, 2013)

That filter sounds like a good idea, I might look into it, even though my laundry discharge doesn't go into the tank.
Bet it would be good for those flushable wipes,


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## Highbeam (Dec 6, 2013)

EJL923 said:


> I'm not a septic expert, but for me having the filter inside the tank keeps any possible clogs, well, inside the tank.  Just my opinion though.


 
You're right, in tank is ideal. These things don't usually plug up with pine cones or anything "solid". It's the very fine stuff that is too light to sink and too heavy to float like lint, hair, and sorry to be so gross but seeds. People eat lots of seeds and those things don't digest and don't settle out very well. Like any filter they also accumulate schmoock.

The external filter sumps will accumulate stuff on the bottom but again, this is stuff that would otherwise have gone to the drainfield so you're better off to collect it any way you can.


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## Swedishchef (Dec 6, 2013)

firebroad said:


> That filter sounds like a good idea, I might look into it, even though my laundry discharge doesn't go into the tank.
> Bet it would be good for those flushable wipes,


 
Don't try it. We used em for a bit and when I checked the in-tank filer, I had lots that had been filtered. To the point that when I cleaned the filter and put it back in (with the filter out the tank doesn't let liquids into the field) the level dropped 6 inches.


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## firebroad (Dec 6, 2013)

Swedishchef said:


> Don't try it. We used em for a bit and when I checked the in-tank filer, I had lots that had been filtered. To the point that when I cleaned the filter and put it back in (with the filter out the tank doesn't let liquids into the field) the level dropped 6 inches.


I don't even use "good" toilet tissue;  The cheaper the better it dissolves.


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## Highbeam (Dec 9, 2013)

Swedishchef said:


> Don't try it. We used em for a bit and when I checked the in-tank filer, I had lots that had been filtered. To the point that when I cleaned the filter and put it back in (with the filter out the tank doesn't let liquids into the field) the level dropped 6 inches.


 
That's because your filter was plugged. The same gunk that plugged the filter will otherwise plug your drainfield and cause a backup the same way. Which do you think is easier to fix? Clean the filter and reinstall or replace your drainfield?


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## Swedishchef (Dec 9, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> That's because your filter was plugged. The same gunk that plugged the filter will otherwise plug your drainfield and cause a backup the same way. Which do you think is easier to fix? Clean the filter and reinstall or replace your drainfield?


 
Oh I agree 100%! I simply meant for him not to use flushable wipes: they do not decompose and they can easily float to the exit side of the tank and really clog the filter.....

trust me, I am sold on the tanks with pre-filters. I clean mine off twice a year. Clogged drain field replaced = $2000 around here + cost of cleaning house when you realize the tank is blocked and your liquids overflow.


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## Laurent Cyr (Feb 17, 2014)

In my area, we are built on clay soil.  We found out after buying the house that we didn`t have a drain field.  Grey water was just dumped into a local Stream.  Well my friends, it cost me 21K to have a new septic system installed.  It is an Enviroseptic system.   And they replaced the old septic tank for a 4 bedroom tank, with filter.  So, none of those baby wipes, and none of that expensive toilet paper that is really soft.  After using that, we had a 1 1/2 foot of toilet paper floating on top of the water, plugging up the pipes.  Like what was said earlier by Firebroad, the cheaper, the better.  Oh, and we also have a mandatory cleanout every 3 years.  It costs $350, and only one company has the Monopoly of that .

The filter is a good idea.  Better to have the clog at the filter, than in your septic field.  I clean mine in the spring after the thaw, and last thing in the Fall before it freezes up.  I also have a pump set up after the filter, to push the water to the field which is located 150 feet from the house, on a small uphill to the field.  There`s an alarm system hooked up to the pump in case the pump fails, or the water won`t drain.

Laurent


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