# multi-purpose wood shed photo



## barkeatr (May 27, 2011)

Took my vacation this week to rebuild my woodshed boiler room.  Lost the orignal one to a breakdown in zero clearance chimney.  This one is bigger.  This will also hold a workshop, tractor storage, two bays for different ages of wood.  This is 4 days work for two men. its 20 x 40 

The steel roofing is nice, its not the regular stuff we get here, its the old fashioned 5vcrimp that costs the same as the regular stuff.  found some fiberglass 5v crimp to add light at workshop and in wood storage area. 

This is quite an investement..but I dont have any type of workshop area...my garage is a carport kind of thing.  anyway if there is interest i will keep posting progress.   picture may be bad, i had a heck of a time reducing the size and it kept saying the size was too big when it wasnt!

barkeatr


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## barkeatr (May 27, 2011)

Here are some drawing images of under construction woodshed. 

I need shelter from the rain! 

happy Memorial day weekend. 

barkeater


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## barkeatr (May 27, 2011)

some rough elevation drawings...


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## certified106 (May 27, 2011)

That is gonna be SWEET! Did you draw up the plans yourself?


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## maxed_out (May 27, 2011)

nice going, if you dont mind me asking what kind of budget are you working with?  I might want to build one of those myself.


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## lfunk11 (May 27, 2011)

keep postint progress pics - I like seeing pics of people building things.  Always learn something new.


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## Lumber-Jack (May 27, 2011)

Hope you are open to constructive criticism, because that is way too nice a shop to not invest in a proper foundation base :-/

At the very least I would have poured a concrete curb foundation for the walls to sit on to keep the wood up off the ground.


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## Backwoods Savage (May 27, 2011)

By all means, please do continue with the pictures. It looks great.


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## barkeatr (May 27, 2011)

thanks for the comments, will try to answer questions in this post.  yes i drew the plans myself and dont mind criticism. I understand the comment on the foundation, my thoughts are that if your not going to frost (5' down in these parts) then there is nothing to gain by using a concrete grade beam vs a PT grade beam.  I did use marine grade Pressure treated for all wood within 6-8" of grade.  Marine grade was a little more expensive and a special order.  The Pressure treated grade beam has 12-16" crushed stone below it (with fabric) and on both sides so its going to stay pretty dry. Columns/point loads do sit on concrete block, so its supported by both the block and crushed stone under the grade beam.   I expect to do some ajusting shimming a little over the years, although when it came to put siding on the last building i did like this, I found it remained very square and plumb over 3 winters.  While a real foundation to frost is ideal, the cost of that would have pushed my 13,-15,000 budget into the 25,000 range.  That budget number is for the entire building except for the interior fit out of the workshop ( doors, insulation, slab floor)  That number includes some hired help at 25 per hour, but lots of my labor. 

I have stakes driven between the double 2x8 PT grade beam, but plan on adding some helical screw anchors ( the kind they hold down mobil homes with) or using the concrete slab floor as an anchor, if I do a concrete slab floor anyway.  
thanks for your comments!


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## Lumber-Jack (May 28, 2011)

barkeatr said:
			
		

> thanks for the comments, will try to answer questions in this post.  yes i drew the plans myself and dont mind criticism. I understand the comment on the foundation, my thoughts are that if your not going to frost (5' down in these parts) then there is nothing to gain by using a concrete grade beam vs a PT grade beam.  *I did use marine grade Pressure treated for all wood within 6-8" of grade.  Marine grade was a little more expensive and a special order.  The Pressure treated grade beam has 12-16" crushed stone below it (with fabric) and on both sides so its going to stay pretty dry. Columns/point loads do sit on concrete block, so its supported by both the block and crushed stone under the grade beam.*   I expect to do some ajusting shimming a little over the years, although when it came to put siding on the last building i did like this, I found it remained very square and plumb over 3 winters.  While a real foundation to frost is ideal, the cost of that would have pushed my 13,-15,000 budget into the 25,000 range.  That budget number is for the entire building except for the interior fit out of the workshop ( doors, insulation, slab floor)  That number includes some hired help at 25 per hour, but lots of my labor.
> 
> I have stakes driven between the double 2x8 PT grade beam, but plan on adding some helical screw anchors ( the kind they hold down mobil homes with) or using the concrete slab floor as an anchor, if I do a concrete slab floor anyway.
> thanks for your comments!


Sounds good  :cheese:   Carry on.


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## DexterDay (May 28, 2011)

Yes Please..... Always post more pics... And more info.. I have just transformed a a Dog Kennel into a Wood Shed. Here is the that thread.   https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/75377/


I also have a "Cleary" 30x40 builing in my back 40 that I have been interested in either selling or moving closer to the house. If I could sell it. I want to build a Big Wood Shed Close to the house... Keep posting... We Love Pics.....


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## bogydave (May 28, 2011)

Great picture so far.
Cant tell squat from the drawings. We need more pictures. :zip:
Looks like a fun project.
Gonna be sweet when done. 
Gonna have power out to it? (for the beer  fridge) ?


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## raybonz (May 28, 2011)

Wow that should be awesome! Did you draft that shed with Google Sketch Up? Ya know there could be a market for shelters like yours as there are so many wood burners around these days.. I know I could use one like that with a place to keep the snowblower on the side along with bicycles etc.. A true multipurpose shelter..

Ray


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## barkeatr (May 28, 2011)

thanks for the comments, yes there is power for the beer fridge...HAHAh... somehow you folks know what a man cave looks like when you see it. HAHA.   I will post more photos in the coming days.  Rafters are all up as of today, but lifting these fresh cut 2x8 locally milled pine is a workout! 

Total lumber package, rough cut as well as pressure treated is coming in the 3400 range..give or take.  I want to guess if it was all bought at the lumber store it would have been more like 5,500 or so..

I did the drawings with vectorworks architect. 

barkeatr


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## barkeatr (May 30, 2011)

here is a photo with the rafters and furring on...the low roof portion of the salt box is not built yet and the doors and windows are not cut out yet..love the rough cut lumber.


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## raybonz (May 30, 2011)

barkeatr said:
			
		

> here is a photo with the rafters and furring on...the low roof portion of the salt box is not built yet and the doors and windows are not cut out yet..love the rough cut lumber.



Holy cow that is as big as a house! At least you know where to go if the wife kicks you out!

 :lol: 

Ray


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## bogydave (May 30, 2011)

Awesome!
Love the ridge pole sticking out. Great place for a block&tackle;
You've done projects like this before. Great workmanship!


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## barkeatr (May 31, 2011)

thanks...


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## SnapCracklePop (May 31, 2011)

Crikey! What are the dimensions of your roof trusses? Are those 2 by 10s? 2 by 8s?

Couldn't you get anything bigger??? 

Nancy


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## smokinj (May 31, 2011)

Pitch like that you can say 2 story!


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## DexterDay (May 31, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> Pitch like that you can say 2 story!



There should be a "Man-Cave" up there.. Very nice job. Bravo


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## woodsmaster (Jun 1, 2011)

Shouldn't have to worry about snow on the roof. Looks nice.


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## Beardog (Jun 1, 2011)

Looks awesome!  Pic with roof shows hoe large it actually is as the first pic makes it look mug smaller.


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## Jack Straw (Jun 1, 2011)

WOW...that's great! I don't understand your foundation (I'm a little slow, eh). You said you used treated, is that what I would call the bottom plate? What keeps the bottom of the walls from pusihing in or out? I would like to build a barn and I am always looking for ideas.


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## barkeatr (Jun 2, 2011)

bottom plate is two 2x8s with a 2x6 cap.  There are concrete blocks under column or point loads.  the bottom plate becomes pretty much encased in crushed stone and there are no forces that act on it that will push them in or out.  Also i have driven stakes down between the two 2x8 every 8 feet or so (before the 2x6 pt) was put on.... so that will resist movement.  I pack the stone under the grade beam so it is supporting wall load as well as the blocks under the point loads.  even without the stakes the top cap helps restrict lateral loads or pushing in our out. 



thanks for all your comments.


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## barkeatr (Jun 2, 2011)

Here are a few more in progress shots.  the cantilivered floor will shelter a woodsplitter below or other implements...


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## SolarAndWood (Jun 2, 2011)

Sweet building.  Does your local guy let you get away with the collar ties that high?  The guys here are strict about the 2/3 rule no matter what the pitch of the roof is.


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## Cascade Failure (Jun 2, 2011)

Nice "wood shed". Much nicer than my garage. Did the wife kick you out and you decided you need a place to live?


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## barkeatr (Jun 2, 2011)

thanks...yes its a bit over the top....  I dont have a real garage ( just a carport) so that is part of the justification.  that and the man room potential of course.  HAHAHA..

as far as collar ties, we have a structural ridge with ridge poles reducing/eliminating the need for collar ties, although code guy has no clue.


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## barkeatr (Jun 9, 2011)

we have more done than this but i keep forgetting to get pictures. 

anyway, here it is so far with about 8500 spent.  another photo to follow.


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## cptoneleg (Jun 11, 2011)

This post is called multip pupose woodshed whats the other purpose a home. That is one fine shed.


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## barkeatr (Jun 17, 2011)

latest update.  approx 11,000 spent..for workshop woodshed storage building treestand man cave.   This is also storage for my tractor.  I have no garage so this is my justification! 

photos are crappy.  Board and batten siding is started, battens have to be put on..


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## DexterDay (Jun 17, 2011)

In One Word...................... WOW...........................


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## shawneyboy (Jun 17, 2011)

In two words.....   HOLY CRAP !!


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## lukem (Jun 17, 2011)

Looks really nice.  Are you going to paint it, stain it, put a clear seal, or just leave it as-is on the siding?  If I get to vote, I'd go with the clear seal.

I like the tree on the ridge pole.  It says "this is where trees come to die...beware".


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## Gunks (Jun 17, 2011)

WOW.  I want one.  How "upstate NY" are you.  Would love to drive by to take a look.


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## firefighterjake (Jun 17, 2011)

In three words: Really Nice Woodshed.


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## raybonz (Jun 18, 2011)

That is truly amazing and impressive! Very nicely done

Ray


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## Heem (Jun 18, 2011)

jealous


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## begreen (Jun 19, 2011)

Inspiring. It's beautiful and functional. Thanks for the updates. I need to tackle our garage soon and this is incentive.


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## 94ranger55 (Jun 19, 2011)

Great job looks awesome  ! One question why use the OSB then put the board n batten onn after ...is it for structural benefit's ?


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## barkeatr (Jun 19, 2011)

thanks again..your correct.the OSB sheathing (vs strapping) is for structural rigidity..there are a lot of holes in the building..by holes i mean barn doors, windows....  On some corners Im putting sheathing on the inside also.


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## barkeatr (Jul 14, 2011)

woodshed is nearing completion...Im ordering some old fashioned barn lights for it..they are pretty cheap.  I need to place a concrete slab on the workshop side. bars from the slab continue into the pressure treated grade beam to anchor the building to the ground.  final cost is in the 14,000 range, with a LOT of my labor included.   Again, i dont have a garage, so that is part of the justification of the expenditure.  I saved a lot by using rough cut lumber and it smells so great.  I still have to add to the chimney and add a chimney cap.  Oh yea, i have to fill it with wood now.  not sure how these photos will look i had to lower quality a lot.


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## raybonz (Jul 15, 2011)

That shed looks awesome! Very nice work and quickly done for a relatively low cost..

Ray


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## maxed_out (Jul 15, 2011)

Barkeatr, your "woodshed" is sweet.  Nicer than my first house!  

Cant wait to see pics of the finished project and the inside if you can be so inclined.


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## golfandwoodnut (Jul 15, 2011)

Very nice, I am just getting a Pole Barn built here in a couple of weeks, nothing that nice, all metal exterior 20X40  one story for about 10K.  Are you saying you did not put the poles in the ground?  We are going down 4 feet deep here for lateral support and frost.  Also I have a fair amount of fill on the one side and hoping to be down on solid ground.


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## fossil (Jul 15, 2011)

That's no woodshed.  It's a spacestation!  Obi-Wan-Kenobi


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## barkeatr (Jul 15, 2011)

the entire foundation is a built up pressure treated grade beam, sitting on 12-18" fabric and crushed stone.  stiffness for lateral strength comes off the sheathing and extensive timber frame type bracing.  Ive done quite a few out buildings this way, the crushed stone minimizes/eliminates the freeze thaw movement. Expanding soils below push up on the crushed stone but the same movement does not get translated to the grade beam, it gets absorbed by the crushed stone.   If frost movement does get translated to the building, the solid PT grade beam alows for easy shimming.  Actually I have done a pole barn barn as you describe, only to have the frozen clay soils that we have here grab some of the posts on the side, and lift them and several of the posts settled because the solid CMU footing we put in must not have been large enough or it broke or the hole got overexcavated..    Of course the frost lift on the poles can be prevented with different techniques, but with our equipment on hand and a five foot frost line here, we decided to stay above it on this one. Its prolly just me but  Iv never been able to get poles in the ground with out a small degree of skew or other issues...all of which are normal with barn accuracy tolerance but certainly are about the same tolerances that might be applied if frost movement gets to my building.  With all this said, its a compromise, but with the issues surrounding other "low" cost foundations and the success of others I have done this way, we find the risks acceptable.  thansk for your comments and good luck


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## Badfish740 (Jul 15, 2011)

barkeatr said:
			
		

> the entire foundation is a built up pressure treated grade beam, sitting on 12-18" fabric and crushed stone.  stiffness for lateral strength comes off the sheathing and extensive timber frame type bracing.  Ive done quite a few out buildings this way, the crushed stone minimizes/eliminates the freeze thaw movement. Expanding soils below push up on the crushed stone but the same movement does not get translated to the grade beam, it gets absorbed by the crushed stone.   If frost movement does get translated to the building, the solid PT grade beam alows for easy shimming.  Actually I have done a pole barn barn as you describe, only to have the frozen clay soils that we have here grab some of the posts on the side, and lift them and several of the posts settled because the solid CMU footing we put in must not have been large enough or it broke or the hole got overexcavated..    Of course the frost lift on the poles can be prevented with different techniques, but with our equipment on hand and a five foot frost line here, we decided to stay above it on this one. Its prolly just me but  Iv never been able to get poles in the ground with out a small degree of skew or other issues...all of which are normal with barn accuracy tolerance but certainly are about the same tolerances that might be applied if frost movement gets to my building.  With all this said, its a compromise, but with the issues surrounding other "low" cost foundations and the success of others I have done this way, we find the risks acceptable.  thansk for your comments and good luck



Awesome design-I might try something similar (albeit a lot smaller, maybe 16' x 12') for OPE storage.  I already have nearly 5 cords worth of covered storage that pales in comparison (pallets, cinderblocks, and $60 worth of Lowes "cull pile lumber") to what you've built


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## mayhem (Jul 15, 2011)

barkeatr said:
			
		

> the entire foundation is a built up pressure treated grade beam, sitting on 12-18" fabric and crushed stone.  stiffness for lateral strength comes off the sheathing and extensive timber frame type bracing.  Ive done quite a few out buildings this way, the crushed stone minimizes/eliminates the freeze thaw movement. Expanding soils below push up on the crushed stone but the same movement does not get translated to the grade beam, it gets absorbed by the crushed stone.   If frost movement does get translated to the building, the solid PT grade beam alows for easy shimming.  Actually I have done a pole barn barn as you describe, only to have the frozen clay soils that we have here grab some of the posts on the side, and lift them and several of the posts settled because the solid CMU footing we put in must not have been large enough or it broke or the hole got overexcavated..    Of course the frost lift on the poles can be prevented with different techniques, but with our equipment on hand and a five foot frost line here, we decided to stay above it on this one. Its prolly just me but  Iv never been able to get poles in the ground with out a small degree of skew or other issues...all of which are normal with barn accuracy tolerance but certainly are about the same tolerances that might be applied if frost movement gets to my building.  With all this said, its a compromise, but with the issues surrounding other "low" cost foundations and the success of others I have done this way, we find the risks acceptable.  thansk for your comments and good luck



Just a clarifying question here, want to make sure I understand.  This design has no posts in the ground, its all resting on a thick bed of crushed stone on top of fabric, right?  Nice.  Problem building for me is my ground is very rocky...and its not all small rocks that you can move with a strong guy or two...alot of it is big boulders...if you try to dig a footing for cemented in posts, you mgiht as well get an excavator and dig/jackhammer a flat floor because thats where you're going to wind up.  The idea of a strong, good sized building that I don't need to bury posts for is very appealing to me.


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## barkeatr (Jul 15, 2011)

YOUR correct no posts in the ground.  My ground is pretty bony also.  THe workshop portion ( about one third the total area) has a 4-5 inch concrete slab (insulated) and the bars extend from the slab into the grade beam.  This should anchor it to the ground in the event of sub hurricane winds try to push it around. Workshop is on the wind side. thanks for all the commetns this is a very positive group!


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