# Dudley Stove



## 30WCF (Aug 31, 2016)

So, I know nobody here wants to be the one that gave the advise that burnt down my shop, but, I have an old Dudley. I think it was made by Washington. 
I grew up with an insert in the house vented into a brick chimney.  I spent many frozen nights hunting in the mountains sleeping cosily on the floor in a shack that has an old stove setting on four bricks on a carpeted floor. The single wall pipe poked through a 16x16 piece of tin nailed to the studs at the eve of the roof then extended upwards. Many nights of coon hunting were actually spent sitting next to a wood burner in central nc eating roasted peanuts off the cast iron pan on top the stove, telling lies while the dogs shivered in the box. 
So the stove was Great Grandpa's. I want to put it in my shop. It's a 12x16 Dutch Barn with a work bench and my axes and mauls I keep for processing wood for the smoker. I keep a supply of cured wood around. 
I would like to burn it as a novelty once in a while or as a warm room when the ice storm hits for a couple days and leaves us in the dark. The point of the above stories is, is this stove safe with the appropriate pipe. What is the appropriate pipe? I can go straight up or out the wall. I think I like straight up. Will the stove pipe go right in the vent or is there an adapter?
Yeah, I want out as cheap as possible for something that might get lit a few times a year, but I want to feel good about it too. 

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## 30WCF (Aug 31, 2016)

5-1/2" vent at top, 5-1/4" at the bottom. What size pipe?
Need fire brick?
Building a pad with cement board and tile. Sheetrock false wall thingy. I might tile it too.


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## Jan Pijpelink (Aug 31, 2016)

There are plenty posts about these type of box stoves. They are not airtight and have bad seals everywhere.  Most people on this forum call them fire hazards.  I had one, sold it and I am glad I did. Using it in a shop with flammable materials is not a good idea in my opinion.


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## bholler (Aug 31, 2016)

Ok well for your hearth you will need atleast 4 layers of backer board to get a good r value to protect the plywood.  Then you need 36" from that stove to any unprotected combustible material.  You can reduce that to 12" by making a ventilated heat shield.  As far as the pipe goes you can go out or up.  Up is generally cheaper.  You can run single wall pipe till you pass through a wall ceiling or roof.  Then you need to switch to class a chimney pipe.  The single wall pipe need to have 18" clearance to combustibles which again can be reduced by 2/3 with a proper heat shield.


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## bholler (Aug 31, 2016)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> There are plenty posts about these type of box stoves. They are not airtight and have bad seals everywhere. Most people on this forum call them fire hazards. I had one, sold it and I am glad I did. Using it in a shop with flammable materials is not a good idea in my opinion.


This is an old one not one of the crap Chinese ones sold now.   Generally the old ones have much better castings and much better fit of the lids doors ect.


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## Jan Pijpelink (Aug 31, 2016)

bholler said:


> This is an old one not one of the crap Chinese ones sold now.   Generally the old ones have much better castings and much better fit of the lids doors ect.


Thanks for educating me on this.


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## 30WCF (Aug 31, 2016)

Is that a 5" ?


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## bholler (Aug 31, 2016)

30WCF said:


> Is that a 5" ?
> 
> 
> View attachment 183378


nope that is 5.5"


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## 30WCF (Aug 31, 2016)

Any other recommendations for the hearth? Pavers, 4" cinder block...
Is sheetrock spaced off the wall with pieces of 2x4s a vented heat shield?
I have lots of red brick and can get fire brick at a local yard. 

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## bholler (Aug 31, 2016)

30WCF said:


> Any other recommendations for the hearth? Pavers, 4" cinder block...


Pavers dont have much r value.  6" block on their sides with the cores open should work.  But if you do that you will need something on top to make sure embers cant get down between the block.



30WCF said:


> Is sheetrock spaced off the wall with pieces of 2x4s a vented heat shield?


No both of those materials are combustible a vented shield needs to be a noncombustible material spaced off the wall a minimum of 1" with a non combustible spacer.  You also need the top and bottom of that shield open.


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## 30WCF (Sep 1, 2016)

1.) Chimneysweeponline has a list of building materials R-value. Is this information adequate to figure out my hearth and shield? What R-value is my target with that stove?

2.) If that's a 5.5" vent, all I'm finding is 6" pipe or 5.5"SS liners. How will the connection from the stove pipe to the vent go?

3.) I think I'll get the Super Vent 8 piece support kit for the roof. That is 6" though.

4.) Any benefit to putting fire brick in the bottom or leaned on the sides. I'm not concerned with losing room inside. One log fire is fine with me. It's only a 12x16 building.


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## bholler (Sep 1, 2016)

30WCF said:


> 1.) Chimneysweeponline has a list of building materials R-value. Is this information adequate to figure out my hearth and shield? What R-value is my target with that stove?



I would shoot for at least 1.5 but probably go with 2 for the hearth.  As far as the shield goes you don't need any r value a sheet of metal will work fine as long as it is spaced properly and there are gaps top and bottom.



30WCF said:


> 2.) If that's a 5.5" vent, all I'm finding is 6" pipe or 5.5"SS liners. How will the connection from the stove pipe to the vent go?



You are going to have to find a 5.5" to 6" adapter or have one made they are not common



30WCF said:


> 3.) I think I'll get the Super Vent 8 piece support kit for the roof. That is 6" though.



Like I said you will need an adapter



30WCF said:


> 4.) Any benefit to putting fire brick in the bottom or leaned on the sides. I'm not concerned with losing room inside. One log fire is fine with me. It's only a 12x16 building.


No there were never any firebrick in them.  There may have been a sand bed on the bottom many older stoves used that.


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## begreen (Sep 1, 2016)

It may take getting the adapter from Europe. 5.5" is about 140mm. 
http://www.stoveworlduk.co.uk/stove-ma-adapter-euro-inch


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## 30WCF (Sep 2, 2016)

I found this galvanized adapter at my neighbors. It went down to 5" so I cut it about 5-1/4 so it would fit all the way down but not be too small. Is this ok? I'm going to get new black pipe but I'm test fitting it with some old rusty pipe that was laying around. Does it get a seal?











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## 30WCF (Sep 3, 2016)

I'm sure I can find one online somewhere if that's not a good idea, but the link provided said no shipping here when I put my info in for estimated shipping.


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## 30WCF (Sep 3, 2016)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Imperial-BM0075-6X5-611-Stove-Pipe-Reducer-6-x-5-/131614349400
This goes to 5" also.


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## double-d (Sep 9, 2016)

They can make it in either Black or Stainless steel https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/custom-shop


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