# Wiring for Mendota FV-44i



## Tominboston (Aug 3, 2016)

Hi,

I just had a new Mendota favorite-44i gas insert installed in my masonry fireplace. My Plumber ran the gas line, and plumbing inspector signed off.  Originally the unit had a 6 foot cord and plug on it, I was hoping to avoid putting a receptacle in the back of the firebox as I just didn't like the idea of it hidden forever behind the insert and not being able to see it. So I ran armored MC 14-2 with insulated green ground conductor to the insert ( secured with proper clamp in the knockout hole)  I ran the MC cable back to my panel and added another 15a breaker so it is on its own circuit.  Does this sound ok?  The Mendota unit had a " master safety shut off switch " accessible from the front of the unit.  Do I need any other switches ..... .? 

Thank you,

Tom


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## DrewAtFPS775 (Aug 5, 2016)

Tom,
You should be alright. Keep in mind that servicing the unit may be a little tricky. Having to trip the breaker to shut the power off does not really seem like something I would want to have to do in my home. The receptacle behind the unit is usually not a problem. We install many Mendota inserts and all are installed in that manner. Also, as the manual for the unit does not specifically say if you can or not, I would ten to say it was not allowed (CYA, inspectors typically don't accept anything that is not in the manual).


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## Tominboston (Aug 5, 2016)

DrewAtFPS775 said:


> Tom,
> You should be alright. Keep in mind that servicing the unit may be a little tricky. Having to trip the breaker to shut the power off does not really seem like something I would want to have to do in my home. The receptacle behind the unit is usually not a problem. We install many Mendota inserts and all are installed in that manner. Also, as the manual for the unit does not specifically say if you can or not, I would ten to say it was not allowed (CYA, inspectors typically don't accept anything that is not in the manual).



Thanks Drew,
Yes the electrical inspector says there needs to be a "disconnect readily available"  so I think even a receptacle in the back of the firebox would be a problem as the unit would need to be pulled out in order to disconnect. 
I am going to have a Licensed electrician make it right.  I think they can use the armored cable I pulled and put a switch on the wall near the unit to kill power if necessary.  It makes sense as if something is shorting out sparking I don't want to have to run to the basement to turn the beaker off or try to move the unit to access the cord to pull out.  Hopefully a saved a couple of bucks by doing some of the grunt work getting the armored cable pulled to the unit.

Thanks again,

Tom


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