# Harman P61 Status Light



## stoaf88 (Oct 25, 2012)

I have searched google and this forum and cannot find the answer to this question.

I just got a P61 it is a year 2000. It runs totally fine once it gets going but does have some weird quirks.

First of all it does not like to light. I fill the burn pot, put the stove into stove temp mode and then light the pellets with the gel stuff. At first only the combustion blower comes on, I think both motors should be on but whatever.

Then after like 3 minutes the exhaust blower goes into an extremely low speed, almost like it is off, but its still on just barely, also the combustion light remains on. I wait like 15 minutes but the feed never comes on, neither does the convection. I am quite certain the temp at the exhaust is at least 165 by now.

Anyway I need to put the stove into test mode to get everything going. After 2 minutes of test mode I can put the feeder back on #3 and leave in stove temp mode and everything runs totally fine.

The status light always stays on. No blinking just a solid light.

The stove is in new condition. New door gasket, very clean everywhere, the draft in the stove is great, and everything has been vacuumed out, no ashes anywhere.

Is this a control board problem? Maybe an ESP problem? Like i said the stove runs perfect. The temp settings work well once I get the stove running.  The only problems are a solid status light that never shuts off. And I need to put the stove into test mode to start it, after a minute everything is totally fine and running in normal mode.


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## subsailor (Oct 25, 2012)

Do you have an owners manual for the P-61? You can download it from the Harman website. My status light is always on unless the stove is shutting down.


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## Defiant (Oct 25, 2012)

Just your combustion blower will come on until the ESP probe senses enough heat (160) to activate the other functions. Is your flame strong or lazy? You might have to check door and ash pan gaskets for a good seal.


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## stoaf88 (Oct 25, 2012)

subsailor said:


> Do you have an owners manual for the P-61? You can download it from the Harman website. My status light is always on unless the stove is shutting down.


I was under the impression that the status light should not be on. I do have the manual.

Ok so the status light is fine I guess thats good.

Now how long does your stove take to start up?

I just put on a brand new door gasket today and the flame is vigorous.

Its weird, When I first turn it on the combustion blower is running very fast. Then after like 3 minutes it goes into a very low speed like almost off. So I put it into test mode and then it comes back on. Fire gets big then I switch out of test mode and all is normal.


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## subsailor (Oct 25, 2012)

My combustion blower always seems to run at the same speed. If it doesn't, then I guess I've never noticed.


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## stoaf88 (Oct 25, 2012)

subsailor said:


> My combustion blower always seems to run at the same speed. If it doesn't, then I guess I've never noticed.


 
So Does anyone have a clue what might be wrong?


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## smwilliamson (Oct 25, 2012)

For a manual light harman you need to get exhaust temps on the esp to 162 before the feeder will kick in and the distribution light will come on faint at 165 and strong at 180. By testing the board you are forcing feed and combustion rpm to fake out the fire....not a big issue. Perhaps you need to open the holes in the burnpot or clean out the air intake trap better. Also possible that your burnpot may be too full of pellets. The top two rows of air holes should be visible when fire is started and last but not least...you may have damp or yucky pellets which need more air and heat to get them going. I use a plumbers torch to light my manual stoves which speeds up this whole process.


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## smwilliamson (Oct 25, 2012)

Afaik the combustion motor should be running at a constant rpm through out the start up cycle...stove temp level should be on 5the or above during start up.


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## P38X2 (Oct 25, 2012)

What method are you using to start it? Harman's method in the manual SUCKS. Mix the gel into a 2/3 filled pot. Light it and leave the door open for 3-4 minutes. Shut the door and watch it. Assuming the pellets are properly lit, the stove will take up to maybe 5 minutes to satisfy the ESP and the feed process will begin.

The stove is clean correct?....particularly the burn pot and especially the ESP.

If everything seems fine, next time when you start the stove shorten the door open time to around 2 minutes. Your stove will tell you what it likes.


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## stoaf88 (Oct 25, 2012)

smwilliamson said:


> For a manual light harman you need to get exhaust temps on the esp to 162 before the feeder will kick in and the distribution light will come on faint at 165 and strong at 180. By testing the board you are forcing feed and combustion rpm to fake out the fire....not a big issue. Perhaps you need to open the holes in the burnpot or clean out the air intake trap better. Also possible that your burnpot may be too full of pellets. The top two rows of air holes should be visible when fire is started and last but not least...you may have damp or yucky pellets which need more air and heat to get them going. I use a plumbers torch to light my manual stoves which speeds up this whole process.


 

I totally agree with all of this but how do you explain the combustion blower slowing down to almost a stop after only 2 minutes?

Thats why I have to use test mode to get the combustion blower back up to speed.

Funny thing is, after I take it out of test mode the combustion blower never slows down after that.


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## stoaf88 (Oct 25, 2012)

P38X2 said:


> What method are you using to start it? Harman's method in the manual SUCKS. Mix the gel into a 2/3 filled pot. Light it and leave the door open for 3-4 minutes. Shut the door and watch it. Assuming the pellets are properly lit, the stove will take up to maybe 5 minutes to satisfy the ESP and the feed process will begin.
> 
> The stove is clean correct?....particularly the burn pot and especially the ESP.
> 
> If everything seems fine, next time when you start the stove shorten the door open time to around 2 minutes. Your stove will tell you what it likes.


 

The stove is very clean almost new clean. The only thing I have not checked is the ESP. But after test mode the ESP is working fine. Calling for heat when it needs it, and slowing down when it is satisfied.

I just dont know why the combustion blower is slowing down for no reason. I have had manual light harman stoves before so I am very familiar with the process.


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## boosted3g (Oct 25, 2012)

I have never noticed my combustion blower slowing ever even on shut down.


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## stoaf88 (Oct 25, 2012)

boosted3g said:


> I have never noticed my combustion blower slowing ever even on shut down.


 
Yea its very weird

After test mode for like 1 minute I can put it back to normal and all is well. Thats why I know the motor is good.

I ran it for 6 hours in my garage today just to make sure everything worked.


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## Bioburner (Oct 25, 2012)

Could be a bad pot switch?


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## stoaf88 (Oct 25, 2012)

Bioburner said:


> Could be a bad pot switch?


 

When it finally gets running I can turn the feed rate up and down and the convection blower up ann down using the pot switches


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## smwilliamson (Oct 25, 2012)

Is your polarity correct on yer outlets?


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## P38X2 (Oct 25, 2012)

I'm no expert but my guess is an ESP problem. You say you just got it but haven't checked the ESP to see if its crudded up. That's the first thing I'd check. I think it's a very overlooked item during a routine cleaning. Maybe it's sending some funky reading to the board and causing the RPM issue...although I believe it either tells the board "I'm ready to go" or not. Yer at least gonna eliminate that variable. 

The fact you put it in test mode and successfully got the temp up may have done just that, given you sufficient heat to get things running normally.

Again, I'm no expert...but I did stay at a Holiday Inn once.


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## subsailor (Oct 25, 2012)

stoaf88 said:


> When it finally gets running I can turn the feed rate up and down and the convection blower up ann down using the pot switches


 
I know your stove is older, but can you really turn the convection (exhaust) blower up and down?


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## subsailor (Oct 25, 2012)

P38X2 said:


> Again, I'm no expert...but I did stay at a Holiday Inn once.


 

Sorry, no bonus points awarded unless it was the H.I. Express.


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## stoaf88 (Oct 25, 2012)

P38X2 said:


> I'm no expert but my guess is an ESP problem. You say you just got it but haven't checked the ESP to see if its crudded up. That's the first thing I'd check. I think it's a very overlooked item during a routine cleaning. Maybe it's sending some funky reading to the board and causing the RPM issue...although I believe it either tells the board "I'm ready to go" or not. Yer at least gonna eliminate that variable.
> 
> The fact you put it in test mode and successfully got the temp up may have done just that, given you sufficient heat to get things running normally.
> 
> Again, I'm no expert...but I did stay at a Holiday Inn once.


 

Yea Im going to clean out the ESP tomorrow and see what happens. It probably wont make a difference but worth a try.


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## stoaf88 (Oct 25, 2012)

subsailor said:


> I know your stove is older, but can you really turn the convection (exhaust) blower up and down?


 

The convection blower is not for exhaust it is for heat. Yes I get quite a bit of variance in the speed of the convection blower. I checked it like 5 times.

The combustion blower (exhaust) should stay at a steady RPM but its not during startup for some strange reason.


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## stoaf88 (Oct 25, 2012)

smwilliamson said:


> Is your polarity correct on yer outlets?


 

Not sure but I have run 6 different pellet stoves in the past 4 years and never seen this problem before.

I thought you guys would know right away what the problem is. Of course I get the very hard to solve problem.


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## mepellet (Oct 25, 2012)

subsailor said:


> I know your stove is older, but can you really turn the convection (exhaust) blower up and down?


I can turn the convection blower up and down but not the combustion/exhaust blower.


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## subsailor (Oct 25, 2012)

mepellet said:


> I can turn the convection blower up and down but not the combustion/exhaust blower.


 

Yes, I misread that.


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## stoaf88 (Oct 25, 2012)

So I guess I will take out the ESP tomorrow and clean it. I will also try to clean every nook and cranny that I can find. If that does not work what do you think I need?

New ESP? New exhaust blower?


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## P38X2 (Oct 25, 2012)

I was gonna suggest just brushing it off through the flue, but maybe taking it out you'll find a loose wire or connection. Nice easy fix.


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## stoaf88 (Oct 25, 2012)

P38X2 said:


> I was gonna suggest just brushing it off through the flue, but maybe taking it out you'll find a loose wire or connection. Nice easy fix.


 

Yea seems like wishful thinking because I am almost sure the ESP is functioning well, but hopefully it will fix the problem.

At least I will be able to eliminate that all together.

Anyone know where I can get a cheap exhaust motor for this thing if thats what it turns out to be?

Really it seems like an electronic problem, either in the motor itself or on the board


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## stoaf88 (Oct 26, 2012)

Ok guys I took the whole stove apart.

I took out the ESP and cleaned it with windex, even though it was already very clean.

Cleaned stove from top to bottom, again it barely needed to be cleaned.

Checked both blowers, no loose connections, checked micro switch on the feeder arm, it was clean no loose connections.

Fired up the stove and it did the same problem. No blinking status light or anything.

All I have to do is put it into test mode for literally 2 seconds and the exhaust motor speeds back up. Then after 2 seconds I take it out of test mode and it continues to run at a high RPM eventually starting the stove just fine after up to temperature. Then it runs perfect.

So here is my startup procedure.

1 fill with pellets to just below holes in pot, around 1 inch.

2 put gel on and light.

3 shut door after 1 minute, fire is burning pretty well by now.

4 wait 2 minutes for exhaust blower to slow to a crawl.

5 put into test mode for 2 seconds to get rpms back up in exhaust blower

6 after 2 seconds in test mode put feed rate back at 4.

7 all done stove runs perfect

Very strange, not really a big issue I guess, but not really sure what the heck is wrong.


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## stoaf88 (Oct 26, 2012)

Anyone have any clue what could be causing this issue?


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## smwilliamson (Oct 26, 2012)

What color is the esp wire, what are the dip switch positions. I can tell you that it os not the motor. I had asked about polarity, is it ok or not? What is the voltage to the motor at start up before you go to test mode? Based upon what you are telling im inclined to say control board....


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## Bioburner (Oct 26, 2012)

There was a pc 45 on iburncorn that had issues and was polarity


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## stoaf88 (Oct 26, 2012)

smwilliamson said:


> What color is the esp wire, what are the dip switch positions. I can tell you that it os not the motor. I had asked about polarity, is it ok or not? What is the voltage to the motor at start up before you go to test mode? Based upon what you are telling im inclined to say control board....



I will check polarity tomorrow i am at work right now.

The wires to the esp are white

I will check dip switch tomorrow as well

Thanks for the reply

Why does the color of wires matter?


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## smwilliamson (Oct 26, 2012)

So you have black wires to the esp and the last foot or so are braidex white. I need to know if the esp wires where they go from black to white are shrink wrapped with and orange tape or if they are spliced with anything other than millivolt connections. Just wanted to make sure that you didnt have red wires ( digital esp).....im thinking polarity....try another outlet too.


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## Lousyweather (Oct 27, 2012)

meh....dont think there's anything wrong with it. I also burn a P61. I dont think youre getting youre ESP to temp. Here's how I start mine:

1. clean out burnpot
2. 4 handfulls of pellets in the the burnpot
3. put stove in TEST mode
4. MAPP gas! Char the top of the pellets in the pot, and hold in a spot till the pellets ignite and glow brightly.
5. Close door
6. move feed adjuster to 3.5
7. set desired room temp
8. be warm

works for me, been doing it this way for awhile now. As an aside, a self-igniting MAPP gas torch is a MUST for every home.....way too useful not to have! Need no matches....bright yellow canister makes it easy to find amidst clutter. Can swet pipes and fix plumbing leaks! Works amazingly well carmelizing the sugar on top of the creme brulee! Also good for warming up a sticky springform pan prior to removing it off the ole white chocolate/red raspberry cheesecake! We dont want them to stick! Its an art.....

I used to use gel, then I had to put the thing in TEST, take it outta test, put it back in 2-4 times....now, with the ole MAPP gas, no need!


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## stoaf88 (Oct 27, 2012)

Ok the polarity to the outlet is fine running at 120

The voltage to the motor at startup averaged around 92 with a peak of 96

The esp wires are white then shrink wrapped to black, no red or any other colors.

As far as dip switch settings on the board, i didnt see any dip switches at all.

The outlet is a gfi outlet though, could that be a problem?


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## Lousyweather (Oct 27, 2012)

stoaf88 said:


> Ok the polarity to the outlet is fine running at 120
> 
> The voltage to the motor at startup averaged around 92 with a peak of 96
> 
> ...


 
voltage seems somwhat low, but likely wont be a huge cause of issues. Unlikely the GFCI is the issue either. No dip switches? Older boards didnt have any. I stand by my nothing wrong comment.....ESP not getting hot enough to roll the dsitribution fan.....


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## stoaf88 (Oct 27, 2012)

Lousyweather said:


> voltage seems somwhat low, but likely wont be a huge cause of issues. Unlikely the GFCI is the issue either. No dip switches? Older boards didnt have any. I stand by my nothing wrong comment.....ESP not getting hot enough to roll the dsitribution fan.....



Yea but the esp not getting hot enogh after only 2 minutes?

Almost seems like a timing thing.

Lets see what scott has to say i answered every question he had.

Like i said the stove runs perfect after startup so its not a huge issue at this point


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## P38X2 (Oct 27, 2012)

Neither of my stoves start feeding til, usually, at least 5 minutes in. Keep in mind, heat immediately starts wicking into the fire box and heat exchanger and that's where a lot of the initial heat is lost.


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## stoaf88 (Oct 27, 2012)

P38X2 said:


> Neither of my stoves start feeding til, usually, at least 5 minutes in. Keep in mind, heat immediately starts wicking into the fire box and heat exchanger and that's where a lot of the initial heat is lost.



Yes but if i dont go into test mode after the motor slows to a crawl then the fire will never start because the fan is too low


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## P38X2 (Oct 27, 2012)

That is strange. I wish I could offer a solution but at least you can trick it into running.

I've lit both my stoves a hundred times and never noticed anything like that....but, if I recall, and maybe I'm imagining it, when I'm at the door open lighting stage, the combustion fan spins slower until I shut the door. Then it spools up. Again, maybe I'm imagining it and I feel stupid cuz I've done it so many times. 

What I'm getting at, assuming I'm correct, is perhaps its a draft sensor (think that's what its called) issue?


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## stoaf88 (Oct 27, 2012)

P38X2 said:


> That is strange. I wish I could offer a solution but at least you can trick it into running.
> 
> I've lit both my stoves a hundred times and never noticed anything like that....but, if I recall, and maybe I'm imagining it, when I'm at the door open lighting stage, the combustion fan spins slower until I shut the door. Then it spools up. Again, maybe I'm imagining it and I feel stupid cuz I've done it so many times.
> 
> What I'm getting at, assuming I'm correct, is perhaps its a draft sensor (think that's what its called) issue?



Yea i thought it was a draft issue. Thats why i put on a new door gasket. The draft in the stove is super strong.

I checked the clear flow switch hose thing and it was clear with no blockages.

Still could be some kind of sensor i guess.


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 27, 2012)

Lousyweather said:


> voltage seems somwhat low, but likely wont be a huge cause of issues. Unlikely the GFCI is the issue either. No dip switches? Older boards didnt have any. I stand by my nothing wrong comment.....ESP not getting hot enough to roll the dsitribution fan.....


LW,
The problem he is describing is with the combustion fan not the distribution fan. He is using terms like exhaust fan and convection fan that are confusing. The bottom line is that the combustion fan should run at the same rpm all the time and its not.


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## stoaf88 (Oct 27, 2012)

Harman Lover 007 said:


> LW,
> The problem he is describing is with the combustion fan not the distribution fan. He is using terms like exhaust fan and convection fan that are confusing. The bottom line is that the combustion fan should run at the same rpm all the time and its not.



Yes this is correct. After fire is going all is well wit the combustion fan.


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## smwilliamson (Oct 27, 2012)

I know the answer.....swap the common wires for distribution and combustion wires. They are backwards..trace from the board back.


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## stoaf88 (Oct 27, 2012)

smwilliamson said:


> I know the answer.....swap the common wires for distribution and combustion wires. They are backwards..trace from the board back.



Do i just swap them on the board?

You mean the black and white wires right? Or maybe one is red i dont remember.


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## smwilliamson (Oct 27, 2012)

no. trace all of the common wires off the board to the respective components. Harman turns on/off the commons to complete circuits. I think the common wire for the distribution and combustion are backwards. Look at the wiring diagram and trace them all to the correct components


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## stoaf88 (Oct 27, 2012)

smwilliamson said:


> I know the answer.....swap the common wires for distribution and combustion wires. They are backwards..trace from the board back.



Do i just swap them on the board?

You mean the black and white wires right? Or maybe one is red i dont remember.





smwilliamson said:


> no. trace all of the common wires off the board to the respective components. Harman turns on/off the commons to complete circuits. I think the common wire for the distribution and combustion are backwards. Look at the wiring diagram and trace them all to the correct components



Sounds good. Thanks so much for all the help so far from everyone. I knew Scott could figure it out.

When i checked the voltage the wires were all zip tied and everything and seemed to be in the correct locations.

Ill try what you said and let you know if it fixes the problem.

How did you figure this out? Is this something you have seen from Harman before?


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## smwilliamson (Oct 27, 2012)

Its why i get paid the big bucks....fix 12,000 pellets stoves and you start to recall things from the past....it still may be a problem...i dont get it right all the time.


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## smwilliamson (Oct 27, 2012)

Common wires are white. In theory. All of your components could tie into one white wire back to the board...bit they dont. Look at tje molex on the board and you will see that each component has a common out.


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## stoaf88 (Oct 27, 2012)

I am going to check it out right now


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## stoaf88 (Oct 27, 2012)

No that didnt fix it

After 2 minutes almost exactly combustion motor slows to crawl


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## smwilliamson (Oct 27, 2012)

Bummer. Oh well. I tried. So.t you feel better you arent paying my bill . Try switching out a co trol board


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## stoaf88 (Oct 27, 2012)

smwilliamson said:


> Bummer. Oh well. I tried. So.t you feel better you arent paying my bill . Try switching out a co trol board



Thanks for the help i appreciate it.

Do u think a control board will fix it?

I dont want to spend the money for no reason


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## P38X2 (Oct 27, 2012)

I just turned on my basement P38. Its an older 2 knob "Turbo" model. Immediately after turning it on, all 3 motors start running in a test mode (I think). If I open the door as if I was filling the pot, the combustion motor slows way down. Upon closing the door, it goes back to normal.

My main stoves' combustion fan, which is currently running, also slows, although not as much, when the door is opened.

Not sure how this post can help you except to confirm the combustion blower speed is in fact variable.


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## stoaf88 (Oct 27, 2012)

i dont think its supposed to be, you may have a problem as well.

my issue has nothing to do with the door though.

really i dont care about this problem because the stove runs perfect.

if more stuff starts to go wrong then ill invest in a new control board


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## P38X2 (Oct 27, 2012)

stoaf88 said:


> i dont think its supposed to be, you may have a problem as well.
> 
> my issue has nothing to do with the door though.
> 
> ...



I hear ya. Not saying the door is the issue, only that the combustion motor varies in RPM's. IMO, it's highly unlikely that both my stoves have the same or similar issue. It must be a safety feature inherent in all Harmans. Kinda like opening a washing machine door while it's on the spin cycle.

Stay warm and enjoy the storm.


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## stoaf88 (Oct 27, 2012)

you too

my generator and pellet stoves are ready


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## smwilliamson (Oct 28, 2012)

Try bypassing the air flow switch and see if it keeps the rpms up.


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## Lousyweather (Oct 28, 2012)

so, this activity has happened since you got the unit? All I can tell you is that my P61 I use the procedure I denoted above----works for me, and has for 13 years. You do kinda need to trick the unit into thinking its running tho.

To support Scott, we did once have a unit where the stove came new with the wrong wire into the wrong terminal of the bus


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## Lousyweather (Oct 28, 2012)

pigtail the combi blower directly to the wall. This ensures its not the blower......otherwise changeout the board.


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## smwilliamson (Oct 28, 2012)

When you open tthe door the combustion motor kicks down...or so it appears... try jumping the air flow switch and see if yer rpms stay up


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## Lousyweather (Oct 28, 2012)

smwilliamson said:


> When you open tthe door the combustion motor kicks down...or so it appears... try jumping the air flow switch and see if yer rpms stay up


 
I dunno Scott- rare those vac swiches fail, and we usually see them as either bad or good, not intermittent.....at least the OP is doing due diligence.....he'll get it eventually.....(psst- control board, or just live with it.... )


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## P38X2 (Oct 28, 2012)

I think WE wanna see it fixed more than he does! Lol. I'm sure its frustrating but at least his stove chugs along after start up. I can't say I'd be in a rush to drop the coin on a new board either.


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## Lousyweather (Oct 28, 2012)

P38X2 said:


> I think WE wanna see it fixed more than he does! Lol. I'm sure its frustrating but at least his stove chugs along after start up. I can't say I'd be in a rush to drop the coin on a new board either.


 
no, but at some point, the rubber has to meet the road......its why i suggested testing the combi blower directly to the wall first......


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## stoaf88 (Oct 28, 2012)

smwilliamson said:


> When you open tthe door the combustion motor kicks down...or so it appears... try jumping the air flow switch and see if yer rpms stay up



It was the other guy that had issues with the rpms and the door.

My issue has nothing to do with the door.

Its some kind of timing issue because rpms always drop after around 2 minutws.

Then a quick 2 seconds in test mose speeds everything back up.

Then i switch baxk to feed rate 4 and all is well.

Its got to be some sort of control board issue

I think we have eliminated every other possibility


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## smwilliamson (Oct 29, 2012)

Last night in my sleep I had another thought in between dreams of Gullum coveting "my precious"...yes, I watched 2 of the Lord of the Rings Trilogy with my son yesterday....try spinning up the voltage trim pot on the board. Its the little white trim pot on the face of the control board. If you have an older style board for a manual P61 you are going to have to remove the CB and look for it....turn it clockwise all of the way.

Perhaps the stove is reverting to idle until the ESP is satisfied for heat...not sure. The trim pot allows you to decrease the voltage by 10 volts. You should be running a steady 115-118 during operation, you say you are getting 92...adding 10 would only give you 102 which is still quite low. Have you tried to call Harman tech support? Don't buy any parts until you speak with a good authorized dealer or HHT themselves...they are somewhat stingy with their info...so see what you can manage there.


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## stoaf88 (Oct 29, 2012)

smwilliamson said:


> Last night in my sleep I had another thought in between dreams of Gullum coveting "my precious"...yes, I watched 2 of the Lord of the Rings Trilogy with my son yesterday....try spinning up the voltage trim pot on the board. Its the little white trim pot on the face of the control board. If you have an older style board for a manual P61 you are going to have to remove the CB and look for it....turn it clockwise all of the way.
> 
> Perhaps the stove is reverting to idle until the ESP is satisfied for heat...not sure. The trim pot allows you to decrease the voltage by 10 volts. You should be running a steady 115-118 during operation, you say you are getting 92...adding 10 would only give you 102 which is still quite low. Have you tried to call Harman tech support? Don't buy any parts until you speak with a good authorized dealer or HHT themselves...they are somewhat stingy with their info...so see what you can manage there.



Huh good idea

So where exactly on the board is this pot located?

Top right? Bottom left? Middle?

Yea when i checked voltage it started around 96 and then kept going down to 92ish


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## Nqc2k (Oct 24, 2017)

Did you ever find the fix to your stove?  Mine has the exact same problem as yours did 5 years ago.


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