# Buck Stove model 280000?? help



## ryjen (Feb 2, 2014)

First of all, please accept my apologies if I ask a question (or questions) that have already been covered in previous threads. I'm new to the site, the forum, and to using woodstoves. I'm going to have tons of newbie questions, but I'm assuming more often than not the answers could vary depending on what stove I'm running.
IN an effort to make a long story short, my wife and I bought our home in October, and quickly found issues with our heating and air system. We have 2 fireplaces in the home, so I wanted a woodstove insert to supplement and/or take over heating duties. A $300 power bill was not expected last month, so I started actively looking.
Personally, I'm one who like to research and learn all I can, before making a purchase, but I came across a Buck Stove for $200 from an old farmer friend and jumped on it as it was far too good a deal to let pass. The thing looks almost brand new.
I don't know what model it is officially, but it has a 24" door opening, which I have read is the size of the 28000.
It has and elongated octagon design in each door, but this appears to be removable. The former owner said they used to sell glass kits to go in their place? This may help identify the stove?
I bought the stove yesterday, and don't have a picture of it. but it looks just like a cleaner version of this:







if the image tag doesn't work, open the link in browser. Sorry for the trouble.

I slid it into the opening of my fireplace in my basement playroom. I have no trim kit, no liner, and poor draw. The smoke will go up the chimney, but if I open the doors it pours into the room no matter how the dampers are set.

Questions:

1: Can anyone use the above information to help me positively identify the stove.
2: Will using a 6 to 8" liner help fix my draft,draw issues? (I have a 12 x 12 square clay lined masonary chimney, so I'm assuming 8" ss liner will fit)
3: What have I gotten myself into? Did I buy too big of a stove?


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## bsruther (Feb 2, 2014)

You need a stove pipe adapter that attaches to the top of the stove and a liner. I had to reread that part about sliding it into the fireplace opening and burning in it.
If you burn in it that way again, you're inviting a dangerous and possibly life threatening situation from just the smoke alone.
You got a decent deal on the stove. Do yourself a favor and use the money you saved to install the stove properly.

I have an earlier version of that stove and it heats my 1000sf ranch very well.
You had better have a lot of wood to feed it though, it will eat everything you give it and then some.


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## ryjen (Feb 2, 2014)

I understand that it needs a proper installation. However, I'm left to go it alone as I have yet to find anyone who installs them. I have a stove pipe, but I couldn't leave it attached to the stove, and get the stove to go into my fireplace opening. I have about 1 and a half inches of clearance from the top of the stove to the top of the fireplace opening. (I will post a few pics in a bit so folks can see what I mean).
Is there trick, or....like my original question.....is the stove too big?


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## bsruther (Feb 2, 2014)

Too big of a stove for what?
For your house? You didn't say how big the house is.
For your fireplace opening? Didn't say how big that was either.


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## ryjen (Feb 2, 2014)

It's not too big for the house, that is 2400 sq ft. I'm worried it may be to big for the fireplace. But pictures are worth 1000 words.

As you can see below, I have just at an inch and a half from the top of the stove to the masonry of the fireplace opening. I can't get a picture of it (Because there is a stove in the way) but this "lip" goes back into the fireplace about 3 inches, and then opens up. So an adapter to the stove will fit, once it is inside the fireplace. You just can't leave it attached, or install it afterwards as you can't get it in.







Below is the stove and opening all in once shot. As you can see....it is not centered as it was just placed there for a test run...but there is plenty of room on the sides of the stove.








Anyone know how to tackle the adapter pipe issue?
Are we agreed that this is a 280000?
Is it too big for the fireplace?
Looks pretty good in there doesn't it?


Ok, you don't have to answer that last one.


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## bsruther (Feb 2, 2014)

The only way I can think of to make that work is to pre-fit the stove pipe adapter to the stove and drill the holes in the stove top to attach it then I would tack weld the bolts to the adapter that fasten it to the stove top. I would then run the liner down the chimney flue and attach the adapter to the bottom of the liner. Then, I'd put the stove in the opening and reach up through the stoves flue opening from inside the stove and pull the bolts through the top of the stove, attach the nuts and draw the adapter down to the stove.
There is a lot more that would come into play like whether the liner would fit through your old damper opening and how much wiggle room you had to play with.
I wouldn't want to do it, but I'm sure I could. 

You could also use carriage bolts to fasten the adapter, but they would be a pita to get through the stove top holes.

Oh yeah, one more thing, you want to attach a rope gasket to the bottom of the adapter before it is bolted to the stove, and fill in any gaps where the liner meets the adapter with stove caulk.

Good luck


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## gzecc (Feb 3, 2014)

It is a 28000 buck stove. You can get adaptors from this company. They are expensive. Call them they are knowledgable
http://www.servicesales.com/buck-stack-p-178.html


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## ryjen (Feb 3, 2014)

The adapter that came with it, is just like the one in that link. The link above mentions that the adapter is not for fireplace inserts, and for free standing only.
I'm guessing that an insert adapter is going to need to be purchased.


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## bsruther (Feb 3, 2014)

Mine looks nothing like the one in the link. Mine looks like the one in this link.
http://www.efireplacestore.com/cpf-18938.html
I needed a boot that used an oval liner because at the time, the damper frame in my chimney wouldn't allow for a round liner.
They can also be found for round liners. The boot doesn't have to be specifically for Buck stoves, it just needs to be the right size for the opening on the stove top.


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## ryjen (Feb 3, 2014)

OK, that looks more like what I'm going to need. My chimney sounds more like what you had to do.
How much of the stove top did you leave sticking out?

can you help me with a few other basic questions?
My stove was free standing, so the fan is on a toggle switch. If I buy a thermostat, I can eliminate that switch, and the fan will come on when the stove reaches optimal temp, right?
Should I invest in the three speed fans I see for sale?
Do you use a grate inside the burn box? This one came with a grate, but it is my understanding that most don't use grates?


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## gzecc (Feb 3, 2014)

ryjen said:


> OK, that looks more like what I'm going to need. My chimney sounds more like what you had to do.
> How much of the stove top did you leave sticking out?
> 
> can you help me with a few other basic questions?
> ...


 
Call this dealer, they can price everything for you.
http://www.servicesales.com/buck-stack-p-178.html
They are also a sponsor of this site.
The fan should already be on a thermostatic control.
The 3 speed controls are great.
By grate, do you mean a wood cradle to keep the wood off the bottom? If so then yes you should use a cradle. These stove also were used for coal, don't use a coal grate for wood


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## bsruther (Feb 3, 2014)

ryjen said:


> OK, that looks more like what I'm going to need. My chimney sounds more like what you had to do.
> How much of the stove top did you leave sticking out?
> 
> can you help me with a few other basic questions?
> ...



It probably already has what you refer to as a thermostat. I think the folks here call it a snap disk. I believe some of these stoves came with a 3 speed switch and others came with 1 speed. Mine is a 1 speed, it has only 2 positions, 1 position bypasses the snap disk and gives full time fan, the other uses the snap disc and only comes on when the stove's at a certain temp. I never liked the single speed, it blows too hard and is too noisy. I got a 3 speed fan speed control (not a rheostat/dimmer) and put it in line on the cord. I keep it on the lowest setting most of the time and works great that way, I can barely hear it when it runs on low. You should be able to test your fan by plugging it in and trying both positions, if it works on one position and not the other, it's probably like mine. Either way, I would inspect that fan thoroughly and run it for a while before installing the stove. Make sure the motor isn't making any weird noises and is clean inside and look for vibrations and rattles on the back of the stove and fasten down anything that vibrates. Once you get the stove in, your not going to want to pull it back out.

I believe these stoves originally came with fire dogs (andirons). I tried a grate in mine years ago, but never liked it, it took up too much space and kept the wood from coaling properly. I made a set of fire dogs a few years ago out of railroad spikes and they worked best for me, although they're about shot.


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## ryjen (Feb 3, 2014)

My fan is on a single toggle switch. I have either on or off. If the stove is cold, it blows cold air.


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## bsruther (Feb 3, 2014)

ryjen said:


> My fan is on a single toggle switch. I have either on or off. If the stove is cold, it blows cold air.


The off position of your switch is not off. Read my last post again, carefully.


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## gzecc (Feb 4, 2014)

bsruther said:


> The off position of your switch is not off. Read my last post again, carefully.


 
I agree, the one position is thermostatically controlled. It comes on at a certain temperature, then increases the fan speed upon increased temperatures. At least that how mine works. Not sure if all the bucks are all the same.
The other position is hi, on all the time.


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## ryjen (Feb 4, 2014)

You guys are the experts, and I'm new so I will try it out. I can't really burn it long as it isn't installed correctly, and doesn't draft well. But I can burn it long enough to test it out.
That being said, has anyone here moved their switch? Mine is on the back of the unit, as it was being used as free standing. Once I have it installed as an insert I will not have access to the switch. My thought was to have the switch moved to the lower right corner of the trim work. I don't know that I would NEED access to it, but better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.


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## bsruther (Feb 4, 2014)

You don't need to burn it, nor should you with the way it's installed. Just trying to explain how it works. Starting up a new fire in an empty stove is going to take a while with some high heat to get up to temps anyway. My biggest concern would be that the fan is operating properly.


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## ryjen (Feb 4, 2014)

Well it runs full speed when I flip the switch to what I thought was "On". So it should be working properly. However, shouldn't I test to make sure there isn't an issue with the thermostat/snap disc before final installation?
I looked up prices on an 8" liner, and for 25 feet I'm looking at roughly $850 for the liner alone. This doesn't include a cap, cutting of the rectangular flue so I can run liner, trim kit, adapter, etc.
I had a local company quote me $1200 for complete install.
Being that I have no idea what I'm doing, and the fact that I posses the handyman skills of a monkey, I'm thinking pay someone who knows what they are doing.


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## gzecc (Feb 4, 2014)

I would imagine that you need a new wiring harness. Why else would the switch be in the back. Somebody must have rigged up a band-aid solution. Get a new harness set up from salesservice.com . Do it once right.


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## ryjen (Feb 4, 2014)

gzecc said:


> I would imagine that you need a new wiring harness. Why else would the switch be in the back. Somebody must have rigged up a band-aid solution. Get a new harness set up from salesservice.com . Do it once right.



The owners manual shows the fan operation switch (facing the unit) in the front, lower right of the stove. *Edit: The illustration shows the fan switch on the air inlet, in the lower right corner facing the stove. I have no air inlets on the front of my stove, only air vents for exit*. However I cannot see where there was ever anything there. Unless there was a secondary box or something that I missed in the illustration.  (I don't have the manual in front of me to double check) This could also be a difference between the 26000, 27000, and 28000 that isn't made obvious in the manuals illustration? When I spoke to the chimney expert I mentioned above about installation, he said he thought that it should have been on the side, and found it odd as well. This is where I'm left to shrug as I'm all new to this.


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## ryjen (Feb 4, 2014)

Another model specific question:

The draft controls on the bottom of each door look like they can be removed on the inside. Did they originally have other plates that could be installed with larger intakes, or was the removal option for cleaning purposes?


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## gzecc (Feb 4, 2014)

ryjen said:


> Another model specific question:
> 
> The draft controls on the bottom of each door look like they can be removed on the inside. Did they originally have other plates that could be installed with larger intakes, or was the removal option for cleaning purposes?


 Why do you choose to guess? I give up. Call the dealer.http://www.servicesales.com/buck-stack-p-178.html


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## ryjen (Feb 4, 2014)

I'm sorry that I have questions and that you seem to be bothered by them. I really fail to see where my question on the draft controls warrants the
response of you "Giving up". I figured since you own the exact model stove that I have, that you would have some sort of knowledge of the history of
said appliance and maybe some of the options available back when it was made. I understand you aren't my personal reference book, but isn't a forum to
be used for the purpose of learning and helping each other from the "end user" point of view? I understand that I may have missed a post or two during
the conversation about the switch and fan...I don't have the greatest of internet connections and my computer is slower than molassis on Christmas morning.
I'm only trying to learn. It doesn't have to be from you.


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## gzecc (Feb 4, 2014)

ryjen said:


> I'm sorry that I have questions and that you seem to be bothered by them. I really fail to see where my question on the draft controls warrants the
> response of you "Giving up". I figured since you own the exact model stove that I have, that you would have some sort of knowledge of the history of
> said appliance and maybe some of the options available back when it was made. I understand you aren't my personal reference book, but isn't a forum to
> be used for the purpose of learning and helping each other from the "end user" point of view? I understand that I may have missed a post or two during
> ...


 
Thank you.


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## ryjen (Feb 5, 2014)

Ok, so single speed motor is what my unit has. As bsruther mentioned above, it did take some time to get up to temp before the fan came on.
I was looking this morning for parts, and found a Switchbox/power cord on buckstoveparts.com. There is no picture of the part. If anyone has a 28000 installed as an insert, can you post a picture of yours? More importantly, the location of your fan switch?


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## valley ranch (Feb 15, 2014)

If your fan switch is in back, it was used as a free standing.. They're tough to get in, most were installed as what is called on the forum, slammers. When that is done the chimney damper is left full open. [ The stove has it's own damper] the sides, between the stove and fireplace, are filled with insulation or crumbled foil and metal covering placed over the slots between the stove and the fireplace side. { These stoves are triple walled and draw air into the outer panel. The fan you see in back is to give some circulation for the life of the wires to the motor, there is a fan inside that pushes the warmed air out the grilled openings.
The ones in use around here, burn hot and produce little build up in the chimney. The chimney is checked from the top, lots of fun on a 12' X 12' pitch roof, cleaned from the top when necessary,  the stove is pulled out to vacuum up what has fallen on top of the stove during brushing. The less the stove is use,shorter period of time each burn, the more build up. Stoves used hours at a time have little accumulation.

Some form members will gather around your house with pitchforks calling you to be tarred, if they hear you've done this, so if you do so keep it to yourself.

I would install glass in the doors, these stoves look great when working, I have glass in ours, no it hasn't been installed yet.

Here is another thing that is commonly done here in the mountains, that you are forbidden to do.
Once a hot fire is going and the chimney is warm, a hand full of rock salt it thrown on the fire, the flames will burn lemon yellow, this will lower the kindling tempeture cleaning, soot will be consumed slowly at very low temp before it is allowed to build up. I must say and repeat: Never do this, never. I did this early today, haven't done it for a while.

We have a 27000 I wish it was a 28000, to bad you live so far away I'd love to trade. Good winter, keep warm.

The switch on the 26 27 28000 is on the right side of the stove where the cord enters.


Richard


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## Kevin Okes (Feb 16, 2014)

I have the 27000 insert. Mine is 3 speed. I have a free standing 28000 like yours. It's a good stove but uses a lot more wood than the "newer" '79 model  insert. My insert is a "slam" installation and has been in constant use since my granddaddy put it in the house in 79. I clean the chimney a couple of times per season. You need a trim panel kit to seal it to the wall. The smoke will go up your masonry chimney. All you'll have to do is center the stove and attach the faceplates to the wall. Check out this link http://www.servicesales.com


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## valley ranch (Feb 17, 2014)

Greetings Kevin, when you clean the chimney, do you pull the stove out, to clean inside also? Thanks

Richard


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## ryjen (Feb 17, 2014)

I have the trim panel ordered. It should actually arrive today.
We put the stack on it that was used for the free standing, just to give the smoke some rise, and fired it when we lost power last week due to the big storm. Worked better.
I am still going to line my chimney in the spring, but I will be using as a "Slammer" in emergency situations for the last of this winter. Pitchfork wielders be damned. My family needs heat if the power goes out.
My stove isn't triple walled, only double. I have to have the liner to keep from pulling air from the fireplace, and effecting my draft and potentially pulling smoke, and blowing it into the room.
Now, If I were cheap, I could fashion myself a block-off plate at the flue and keep on rolling. But I figure it would be far easier and safer in the long run to just line it and be done.
I also will be moving the switch and power cord to the right side of the stove, as opposed to the rear, during the offseason.


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## Kevin Okes (Feb 17, 2014)

ryjen said:


> I have the trim panel ordered. It should actually arrive today.
> We put the stack on it that was used for the free standing, just to give the smoke some rise, and fired it when we lost power last week due to the big storm. Worked better.
> I am still going to line my chimney in the spring, but I will be using as a "Slammer" in emergency situations for the last of this winter. Pitchfork wielders be damned. My family needs heat if the power goes out.
> My stove isn't triple walled, only double. I have to have the liner to keep from pulling air from the fireplace, and effecting my draft and potentially pulling smoke, and blowing it into the room.
> ...


Without power most your heat will literally go up the flue. I overfired mine when superstorm Sandy dumped snow here and knocked out the power. Fried my thermostat.  Single speed is only $20. I was going to tell you about the single wall bc that's what my big buck free standing stove is. It cycles off quite a bit unless I feed the dragon by leaving the slides half open or more with the damper closed. It will heat but I much prefer the double air jacket design and three speed fan of my insert. 
When I clean the chimney I pull the stove stack firewood to support it and cock it to one side. I then wire brush the top and down around the damper. I also remove the doors and brush them outside.


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## ryjen (Feb 17, 2014)

I plugged the stove into the battery back up for the computer and it ran for about 6 hours.
Not ideal for long term use, but it helped us out overnight and kept the den warm and toasty.


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## Kevin Okes (Feb 17, 2014)

I keep generator and extension cords on the porch now just in case


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## valley ranch (Feb 18, 2014)

Small generator will do it. When calling it triple wall, I count the fire box as well, I think that add up to three. We have a generator too, the fan makes a big differents.


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## ryjen (Feb 18, 2014)

valley ranch said:


> When calling it triple wall, I count the fire box as well, I think that add up to three. We have a generator too, the fan makes a big differents.



So does Buck Stove.

I have learned a ton over the past couple of weeks, and I'm making a post soon with what I have learned. You know......for posterity.


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## Kevin Okes (Feb 18, 2014)

My insert is simply pushed tight to wall. Never had a problem with smoke. I usually clean the chimney before start of season and sometimes once 1/2 way through winter. Wondering if most folks have the insulation and seal the trim panels to brick. By the way it was operating this way thanks to Grandaddy 20 years ago.


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## ryjen (Feb 19, 2014)

The owners manual shows the use of silicone around the base of the panels (where they attach to stove), and then fiberglass insulation 1-2 inches from edge of trim where it meets the brick. The insulation is mostly to help seal the mortar joints that could create gaps, allowing air from the room to be pulled in. If you sealed it by the directions in the manual, you may see a slight increase in draft from the stove.
Aside from that, if you don't have back puffing or draft issues now......"If it aint broke, don't fix it" ??  (The fact that it is a "slammer" not-withstanding)


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## valley ranch (Feb 19, 2014)

When I install the Buck, it will be free standing, we don't have a masonry chimney at ether ranch.

Richard


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## bsruther (Feb 19, 2014)

valley ranch said:


> When I install the Buck, it will be free standing, we don't have a masonry chimney at ether ranch.
> 
> Richard


That's good, because you don't want to install it the way that these people are suggesting.
I don't think they even realize where the air supply for the blower comes from.


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## Kevin Okes (Feb 19, 2014)

Yeah I realize the fan pulls air from behind the stove. I've wondered about that. The first bucks weren't good for fireplace inserts. However I remember being in the position of needing heat quick and cheap late one winter. I installed a fisher stove 18" from the wall in my avatar picture. Insurance gave me 3 months to get it 3 feet from the wall. Tried a sorry pellet stove from Lowe's the next year. Burned 6 tons of pellets and wasn't warm. Found "old Bertha" for $400 fixed up like brand new, including all the triple wall pipe and roof kit. Figured Ryjen could use some Friendly advice. Wish I'd have found this forum back then.


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## bsruther (Feb 19, 2014)

Kevin Okes said:


> Yeah I realize the fan pulls air from behind the stove. I've wondered about that.


The only thing I can say is, you are a complete idiot.
You are encouraging someone to pull smoke into their house through their blower.

Does no one on this forum care about this kind of thing anymore?


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## Kevin Okes (Feb 19, 2014)

Can't imagine there being loads of smoke at the base of a wood stove probably over 2 feet from the smoke source.  That's without the adaptor he plans to use. If it does draw smoke he can unplug the fan.  I highly doubt after using this stove a while it becomes a permanent fixture.  Of course this "idiot" does not have a degree in theology of smoke as yourself


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## fossil (Feb 19, 2014)

Well, that'll about do it for this thread for now.  As soon as members get testy and start sniping at each other, the level of courtesy and decorum we try to maintain on these forums has been lost.  Go to your corners and take some deep breaths.  Rick


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