# Just purchased Nordic "Erik" Stove in Good Condition



## John Hubertz (Oct 8, 2012)

Just bought this mid-1980s Nordic stove.   It is a freestanding unit on legs, and appears to be in excellent condition, with manual and UL listing tags all intact.  It still looks exactly as this one from the original brochure, with a little more heat staining around the top edges of the doors.  Original wood handles intact and tight.








Anyone know anything about these?  I have learned it takes a wide stovepipe - around 8".  I hope these are readily available.

Nordic was (is?) a Nevada company, but I find no evidence of their existence.  Are parts for this sort of stove relatively easy to buy as generic and/or fabricate if needed?  (at this point everything appears to be in good shape).

It has the blower unit, and it looks unused.  The stove itself looks lightly used - it shows no signs of overheat damage or metal fatigue.   

I'd love to hear from anyone who had experience with an "Erik" or the Nordic made stove or heater.  I paid $120 for it.

JH/Indiana


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## Another Bucker (Oct 11, 2012)

I have been using an Erik wood/coal model as an insert since the mid '80s. 8" stainless liner. Mom and Dad bought it back then. I have the house now. When heating oil was cheap we burned a cord or two. Last 5 years it's heated everything but the basement (about 2500sq.ft), on about 4.5 cords a year. I have replaced gaskets afew times and the baffle so far. I'm due for firebrick and new angle irons. Typical of inserts of the period the blower is noisy, but the savings make the extra noise a non issue.  No parts are available as the manufacturer disappeared more than 10 years ago. I have never used coal in it, but as I recall it specified chestnut size coal. I have read that if you don't empty the ashes regularly they can retain heat and warp the shaker grates on similar style stoves. I fabricated the replacment baffle from 5/16 plate. Fire brick are standard size  (4.5x9x1.5)  I love the shaker and ash pan, and the unit has been great to operate. I get a nice fire going then close the underfire air, let it roll for abit then close the door air inlets down for a nice burn, but open enough so that flue gasses are still clear. Great price and hope you get at least as many years from yours as I have from mine.


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## valley ranch (Sep 29, 2013)

Greetings, This is an old thread but want to reply so those reading, we do read old threads, this will get the added info.

I installed this very stove last year at our lower ranch, free standing. It works great, easy to start, heats the 2000 sq ft like a charm. We love it.
The smoke curtain bar on the left door always gets me though, and I get a soot smug on my elbow.


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## John Hubertz (Sep 29, 2013)

Thanks for posting this - I had forgotten the thread and should update.

Installation went like a breeze - if you ever need clearances on the model with legs I've got the original data plate at the cabin.  They are pretty large as this stove generates serious heat.  We have the optional blower so if anything the stove is oversize for this 900 sqft North Ohio cabin/residence.

My son and his wife heated with it all last winter, absolutely a wonderful stove and very beautiful in the room.  For a mid-sized two door stove it really is of simple and robust construction.  The plate steel it is made of is thick and has not warped at all.

Be sure you have the baffle plate, they get lost easily.  It sits loose across a couple of ledges just above the firebox.  Anyway, I sure wish Nordic was still around, they make a fine stove. 

FYI:  They may be medium size, but they weigh as much as a piano.  Bring long beams of wood and plenty of friends to move one of these rascals.

PS:  Pic is from the internet - the stove is right but the installation is way wrong.

[pic]https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/55/55144-72f56430fdc0fd44831cc1afa7d216db.jpg[/pic]


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## COMtns (Oct 28, 2013)

I just bought a Nordic Erik and was wondering what clearances you have for clearances for freestanding options with non-combustible walls?  I have the original owner's manual, but mine shows only and "X" with number values.

Thanks for any help you have.


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## valley ranch (Oct 29, 2013)

COMtns said:


> I just bought a Nordic Erik and was wondering what clearances you have for clearances for freestanding options with non-combustible walls?  I have the original owner's manual, but mine shows only and "X" with number values.
> 
> Thanks for any help you have.




Greetings, Just read your post. Re: the clearances. On the back of ours there is a plate that has a discription of clearances. We'll be down there, at the lower ranch, I'll try to remember to get a list to bring back and post.

We built a standoff from the floor and wall so we were not held to that standard. The double wall give the Erik the a cooler side, if I remember it was 7". Our model has the stove pipe coming out the back, that requires greater distance, however we paced ours side to the wall.

I posted a picture before we completed the installation, guys on the forum we saying: " what about fire" and " Paint it"

Good luck with it, we love ours, one thing that I dislike is the bar that sticks out of the left hand door, the bar pushes the smoke curtain up when you close the door. I get soot on my had or arm with fail, forgetting it's there.

Richard

I just reread your post. For non combustible walls you can ignore the clearance specs.


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## valley ranch (Oct 29, 2013)

John Hubertz said:


> Thanks for posting this - I had forgotten the thread and should update.
> 
> Installation went like a breeze - if you ever need clearances on the model with legs I've got the original data plate at the cabin.  They are pretty large as this stove generates serious heat.  We have the optional blower so if anything the stove is oversize for this 900 sqft North Ohio cabin/residence.
> 
> ...




John, The picture you posted is ours before we installed the slate, it came out nicely. The floor, under the stove has 5/8" cement and slate. An air vent under the base vents up the side between the concrete slate barrier and wall. We live in the sierra range and in Nevada also. Nordic was made Nevada I think Winemucca, not sure the spelling.


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## begreen (Oct 29, 2013)

COMtns said:


> I just bought a Nordic Erik and was wondering what clearances you have for clearances for freestanding options with non-combustible walls?  I have the original owner's manual, but mine shows only and "X" with number values.
> 
> Thanks for any help you have.




Describe the construction of the non-combustible wall in detail. Is this stone covered cement board screwed to wood studs? If so, it isn't non-combustible. If there is cement block behind the stone veneer then it's truly non-combustible.


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## valley ranch (Nov 24, 2013)

Greetings guys, How have you been adjusting your Nordic stoves? I usually start mine with the slide on the ash/grate door open, closing it when the fire is burning good. The slides on the doors beneath the glass, I leave open. Lately, we're at the lower ranch now, because I have only Cottonwood I've tried closing the slides on the doors a bit to get longer burns. 

Cottonwood seems a poor firewood, lots of ash and shorter burn time than Fir which we use when at the upper ranch.

Richard


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## Jim Ridge (Dec 12, 2013)

COMtns said:


> I just bought a Nordic Erik and was wondering what clearances you have for clearances for freestanding options with non-combustible walls?  I have the original owner's manual, but mine shows only and "X" with number values.
> 
> Thanks for any help you have.


HELP: we just installed an Erik Nordic Stove but have not manual. We cannot figure out the brick angle iron placement inside. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## Jim Ridge (Dec 12, 2013)

Here are photos. I need help with how to put it all together.
There are 8 bricks and two angle iron pieces and a large plate inside stove.


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## tcassavaugh (Dec 15, 2013)

you might try pm-ing some of the folks here. I see that the OP has a manual. he might be able to scan the page that pertains to the brick. just saying its worth a try.


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## Jim Ridge (Dec 15, 2013)

So I guess I need to update my tech speak: OP? PM?


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## rwhite (Dec 15, 2013)

Jim Ridge said:


> So I guess I need to update my tech speak: OP? PM?


 Original poster = OP
Private message= PM


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## Jim Ridge (Dec 15, 2013)

rwhite said:


> Original poster = OP
> Private message= PM


Thanks.


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## Baffled (Dec 22, 2013)

For those that still have the manual can you tell me if lists the seal size in the replacement parts section for the doors..Thxs


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## Another Bucker (Dec 22, 2013)

I don't have a manual but I used 3/8, just matched up what was there originally, the best I could.


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