# Hard time sharpening my Stihl chain



## wahoowad (Feb 27, 2014)

I think I understand the basics of using a file and guide to sharpen a chain but am having a problem with my new Stihl saw. I have the MS251 with .325 RM3 chain and decided to touch it up for the first time after bucking up a couple trees. 

It seemed Ok sharpening the cutters from the left side, but it felt like the file kept hanging up as I sharpened from the right side. Of course I must have the angle wrong but I payed real close attention and don't see what I am doing wrong. The file seems to be binding slightly by making contact with the depth gauge as if I have too much of an angle on the file. But I am looking closely at the 30 degree etched line and it seems to bind when I do that. I have to reduce the angle a bit to get room to make a pass with the file. 

My file is for .325 chain. I just don't feel like I got 3 good smooth passes or kept the right 30 degree angle for most of them.


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## _CY_ (Feb 27, 2014)

most common reason for chain sharpening failure is lack of consistency. it's really hard to file same angles for all tooth and keep em same size. there's a steep learning curve but once the light bulb goes off .. touching up a chain becomes second nature.

for me definitely a use it or lose it skill .. after I scored a Silvey chain sharpener .. my hand sharpening skills went right down the gutter

a good way to learn how to hand sharpen is to use a bar mounted sharpener. this teaches you correct motion/angles for a razor sharp chain. it's really important to be able to see what you are filing. bright lights and jeweler magnifier really helped me.


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## greg13 (Feb 27, 2014)

It is possible that you caught something during a cut, If you catch it just right you hit one side of the chain but not the other. Usually until you get the feel for it, one side is harder to sharpen than the other. 

Greg


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## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Feb 27, 2014)

BB gave me a great tip... He said to put the bar in a vise, sharpen all on one side, when done, lip the bar in the vise and sharpen the other side...... The theory is that your angle and force of thrust will be more consistent and accurate in the sharpening. Un even sharpening is a killer.......


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## BrotherBart (Feb 27, 2014)

Trick Eric Johnson taught me here nine years ago. Sharpen one side of the chain and then flip the saw on its top and sharpen the other side the same way. Works best on a bench in a vice on the bar. Eliminates uneven angles and stopped me from making C shaped cuts in big rounds.


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## BrotherBart (Feb 27, 2014)

We were typing at the same time.


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## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Feb 27, 2014)

BrotherBart said:


> We were typing at the same time.


Ha, well I was hoping I was explaining it right while typing.....
Thanks for the tip BB


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## wahoowad (Feb 27, 2014)

Another thing that was odd is the Stihl file guide did not have the 30 degree sharpening line enscribed to the top of the guide. I am used to that on my Oregon guide and it helps me ensure I have the right angle before I start pushing my file into the cutter. Instead it has the 30 degree mark half way down. Why is that?


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## BrotherBart (Feb 27, 2014)

Eric's original post. To me he is a wood burning god. Taught me about the years ahead thing and about sharpening. If you notice in the thread, apparently wahoowad didn't learn back then. 

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/sharpening-the-chain-by-turning-the-saw-upside-down.1013/


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## wahoowad (Feb 27, 2014)

Actually I remembered that thread and that is how I began to sharpen my Poulan and did so for years! Flipped it right over. But it still felt a little odd so I was trying to develop a better feel for simply spinning the saw around now that I have a real saw.

Where is Eric? I learned quite a bit from him too.


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## BrotherBart (Feb 27, 2014)

He still drops into the Boiler Room every once in a while.


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## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Feb 27, 2014)

Well after 8 years at least you guys are still connecting....full moon tonite.....ha


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## BrotherBart (Feb 27, 2014)

First and last person I know that had 45 cords of Beech in his back yard.


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## TreePointer (Feb 28, 2014)

Are you using Stihl files or some softer files?

Is this the first time hand sharpening that chain?  If so, it will be rough on the first few filing strokes.  Keep the 30* angle and push and pull at the same time.  You may have to take a few running "half strokes" before being able to make a full filing stroke.


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## wahoowad (Feb 28, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> Are you using Stihl files or some softer files?
> Is this the first time hand sharpening that chain? If so, it will be rough on the first few filing strokes. Keep the 30* angle and push and pull at the same time. You may have to take a few running "half strokes" before being able to make a full filing stroke.



Yes, all of this is true. New Stihl file, first time sharpening this chain. At times I could only get a decent stroke by starting halfway down the file. It just felt a little better when I did it from the other side.


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## johnpma (Feb 28, 2014)

All we use


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## Jags (Feb 28, 2014)

BrotherBart said:


> First and last person I know that had 45 cords of Beech in his back yard.



That dudes yard was a carpet of wood piles.  He was a machine.


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## _CY_ (Feb 28, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> Are you using Stihl files or some softer files?
> 
> Is this the first time hand sharpening that chain?  If so, it will be rough on the first few filing strokes.  Keep the 30* angle and push and pull at the same time.  You may have to take a few running "half strokes" before being able to make a full filing stroke.



stihl makes some of the finest files you can buy .. stihl chains are definitely harder than oregon chains and last longer. but costs 3x+ more or not worth the difference when buying in bulk 100ft rolls. if you've got several chainsaws using one size chain in bulk for all saws. roll your own chains saves serious $$$.

all my saws use 3/8in .050 rails .. only exception is MS200T and Stihl HT101 pole saw uses pico chain and Stihl 084 with 4ft bar uses .404 chain.

here's my chain sharpener setup with Simington 450 for square grind, Silvey for round and chain spinner


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## CTPhil (Apr 2, 2015)

I'm having the same problem!  I've been sharpening chainsaws my whole life.  Left side is fine, right is giving me fits!  The file is dragging on the side links and depth links which seem harder than the tooth and it's driving me crazy!  I need to look at the chain with a magnifying glass, I swear the plates on the right links must be sticking up higher or something.


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## Grateful11 (Apr 5, 2015)

I don't know if I've ever bought a Stihl file. I bought two boxes of whatever sizes I needed years ago of Pferd files and they've always served me well with Stihl and Oregon chains.


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## blades (Apr 5, 2015)

Take some bar soap and rub it into the teeth of the file, stops the chips from clogging the file teeth, which could also be part of your difficulty. File will last a lot longer this way also.


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## DougA (Apr 5, 2015)

wahoowad said:


> I have the MS251 with .325 RM3 chain and decided to touch it up for the first time after bucking up a couple trees.


It's much harder to manually file a chain after you have used it quite a bit. Most people touch up the chain after each gas tank.  I bought the same Stihl file with guide and I tossed out the guide after a few uses and found it easier to file without it. This winter, I was in the store and saw that it's much cheaper to buy the file handle separately and a package of files without handles.  
I use a 120v chain sharpener when the chain has been abused and the files to touch up the chain after every tank. I want to get the Timberline sharpener when I save up a bit of $$.  
You might want to check the thread here: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/timberline-sharpener.142194/


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## Grateful11 (Apr 5, 2015)

I served an apprenticeship under some of the most creative Machinists around. They recommended chalk in the teeth of a file to help keep it from clogging. Normally you only have a clogging problem with softer materials. A nice file card and brush is handy to have around. Light taps on soft wooden block usually works for me on a chainsaw file to make filings drop out, don't slam any file down unless you want it to shatter into a gazillion pieces. I actually made a filing jig to hold any size saw chain, I usually wait until I need 6 or 8 touched up and head for the bench vice and my jig and takes about 30-45 minutes to do 6-8 chains.


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## blades (Apr 6, 2015)

Chalk is good too, just that most have some bar soap around.


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## EG GREV NED MIN ELD (Apr 6, 2015)

A trick that works for me is to slightly pull up against the cutter, as opposed to pushing into the link.

Also, use both hands on the file with the chain tight on the bar clamped in a vice


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## CountryBoy19 (Apr 8, 2015)

EG GREV NED MIN ELD said:


> A trick that works for me is to slightly pull up against the cutter, as opposed to pushing into the link.


 This is what I do as well^^^ Just slight upward pressure keeps the file from sinking down into the links etc and reduces binding a great deal.


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## BringinHeat (Apr 8, 2015)

EG GREV NED MIN ELD said:


> A trick that works for me is to slightly pull up against the cutter, as opposed to pushing into the link.
> 
> Also, use both hands on the file with the chain tight on the bar clamped in a vice



This is a great tip.

I was also having issues until I did this.


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## Chuck the Canuck (Apr 9, 2015)

BrotherBart said:


> Trick Eric Johnson taught me here nine years ago. Sharpen one side of the chain and then flip the saw on its top and sharpen the other side the same way. Works best on a bench in a vice on the bar. Eliminates uneven angles and stopped me from making C shaped cuts in big rounds.



So does flipping the chainsaw upside down cause any issues with fluids like oil or gas leaking or spilling?


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## BrotherBart (Apr 9, 2015)

Nope. My saws leak more sitting flat on the floor than they do turned upside down.


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## Chuck the Canuck (Apr 9, 2015)

Well by golly, I think I just might give that a try!  Although I have fairly good results right now; my vice is set at the end of the workbench and this allows me to do one side of the chain and then step in behind the saw and do t'other side....  nonetheless I do notice a slight difference in the size of the cutters as I get towards the end of the life of the chain, so there's still room for improvement.....  Thanks for the good ideas people!


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## CTPhil (Apr 11, 2015)

I went at it again with a resolve to really figure it out.  I turned the saw upside down and it did help some.  I slowed myself down and thought my way through it and managed to correct the unbalance, the cutters on the right had way too deep an undercut.  So bottom line is operator error on my part.  Beats me why I seemed to have lost my technique after 40 plus years, but it seems to be the case.


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