# Wood handling gloves.



## ironspider (Feb 28, 2014)

I go through the rubber gloves like underwear, I keep getting he's in the fingers. 

Anyone have a good recommendation for a strong yet flexible glove, thin enough to use with a saw and to handle wood?


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## bmblank (Feb 28, 2014)

The Kevlar gloves with the plasti-dipped palms work great. They offer a whole lot lot protection than you'd expect, too, as thin as they are.
Not all are Kevlar. Kevlar provides some cut protection, but the non-Kevlars are still good.


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## ironspider (Mar 1, 2014)

That's what I'm using, but I keep wearing out the fingers handling wood. Isn't there something better?


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## wahoowad (Mar 1, 2014)

Not sure about better but I like standard work gloves. They break in fast after handling a few splits, are pretty durable and provide good feel for whatever you are handling. Run about $10/pair at Lowes. I never seem to find them on sale though.


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## ironspider (Mar 1, 2014)

Actual lay I'm using latex dipped not Kevlar. I'll try the Kevlar. 

What about pig skin? Anyone use then.


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## GENECOP (Mar 1, 2014)

Amazon Prime....three pack, leather work, all sizes...$26.00....


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## velvetfoot (Mar 1, 2014)

(I'm assuming this is not when it's cold.)

I use the Harbor Freight cheap gloves.  They last a while, then the fingers get holes, but they're cheap.  They're not all leather, but the wear parts are.


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## Ehouse (Mar 1, 2014)

How about a piece of kevlar tape for a wrap or glued on pad at the tip?


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## WES999 (Mar 1, 2014)

I got a pair of these from HF, they are on sale now.
http://www.harborfreight.com/split-leather-work-glove-66610.html#.UxHMWs7FPnE
They quite good for the price.


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## Beer Belly (Mar 1, 2014)

I get mine from HF.....I think they're Safety Wear.....Yellow, with a rubber coating on the palm and fingers, cheap, and give a lot of grip....almost too much grip when I'm using the saw.....a tip from a friend...when using them in the cold, wear Latex Gloves under them to keep warm


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## Osage (Mar 1, 2014)

Normally I do not use gloves. But at my wifes urging I bought some of those super wizbang mechanics gloves with some kind of mean looking critter embroidered on them. After one day of cutting they already had holes in them. As far as durability I have found that the plain old leather ones last the longest. Still I would rather work without gloves. Have yet to wearout my hands in 63 years.


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## bmblank (Mar 1, 2014)

Leather and knit gloves are the only ones that will last. I think the only thing harder on gloves than wood is asphalt shingles.
Edit. And concrete blocks.


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## BobUrban (Mar 1, 2014)

two schools of thought  super cheap or super expensive.  Both have advantages but I find the longevity advantage of quality does not supersede the price point.  Others mileage varies.  I use rubber dipped cotton and wrap the tips with duct tape.  Works well for me.

Fire wood eats gloves of all quality!


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## CenterTree (Mar 2, 2014)

ironspider said:


> I go through the rubber gloves like underwear, I keep getting he's in the fingers.
> 
> Anyone have a good recommendation for a strong yet flexible glove,* thin enough to use with a saw and to handle wood?*


I think TWO different types are needed.    One thin pair to use while running the saw.  And then switch to a tougher leather pair for handling the cut log pieces. 

I dislike wearing gloves with the saw unless they are the thin rubber coated type.

I found these NICE leather gloves at Walmart for $14.  They are pre-curved to fit great.
https://www.stone-breaker.com/p-8-the-rancher.aspx

PS:  Sorry to hear about your underwear troubles.


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## Firewood Bandit (Mar 2, 2014)

I just bought a dozen Atlas Fit thermal for $42 delivered.  They aren't all that warm but looks like they are going to be great for handling firewood.  The palms and bottoms of the fingers are rubber dipped.

The fit very snug and have great dexterity.

http://www.atlasfitgloves.com/


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## Bigg_Redd (Mar 2, 2014)

ironspider said:


> I go through the rubber gloves like underwear, I keep getting he's in the fingers.
> 
> Anyone have a good recommendation for a strong yet flexible glove, thin enough to use with a saw and to handle wood?



I use Atlas gloves for all firewood processing.  Yes the rubber part wears off the tips of the fingers but I still get lots of mileage with no rubber on the tips.


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## redmule (Mar 3, 2014)

I like the leather gloves made from  buffalo hide.


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## razerface (Mar 3, 2014)

If i wear thick leather gloves with thick lining(sheepskin looking),, my hands hurt at the end of a day because the lining makes the glove "slide" on my hands,, and I must grip tighter then with a thin glove.

I buy cheep leather gloves all year when i see them at tractor, and swap meets. They can be had for 4-5 bucks a pair.


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## Zare (Mar 3, 2014)

After trying all types of Gloves, I stick with the  leather work gloves that Home Hardware (Canadian eh) has on sale every few months. There own brand, yellow gauntlets. And for reinforcement on the fingers when worn out =rough duct tape.
(note--duct tape transmits heat directly from that burning log your moving around in the fire box...)




And when they are worn out completely they burn real nice..


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## bmblank (Mar 3, 2014)

The thing I hate about most gloves is how the cuff opens up like a funnel, shooting saw dust straight down to your fingertips. That's why I like the cheap knit one with the elastic wristband.


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## bassJAM (Mar 4, 2014)

I like the Wells Lamont "Drivers"






Been using these since I was a kid baling hay, and they seem to hold up well enough.  When it's really cold I slip a pair of military surplus wool liner gloves under them.  It takes a few minutes for the leather to stretch with the liner, but eventually they do so you keep that tactile feeling like a thick pair of Mechanix gloves.

Back when I did a winter of stone masonry and my hands were always grabbing 20-80lb stones and washing them off with a sponge I used a pair of rubber dipped gloves, which held up pretty good against the stones and kept my hands dry.  I still have a pair I'd probably use if I even had to handle wood that was wet.






Overall I prefer using bare hands though, and do any time the weather permits.  I sit in an office all day so any time I do "real" work I go gloveless to try to keep at least a few callouses on my hands!


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## DanCorcoran (Mar 4, 2014)

These are my favorites.  Come in three sizes from Harbor Freight.  On sale now for $1.99 a pair.  They are warm in winter, cool enough for summer, great grip, nice and snug around the wrist, and no splinters.  Wear 'em out, throw 'em away, use the next pair.  (Sorry, I couldn't find a larger image...).


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## paul bunion (Mar 5, 2014)

CenterTree said:


> I think TWO different types are needed.    One thin pair to use while running the saw.  And then switch to a tougher leather pair for handling the cut log pieces.
> 
> I dislike wearing gloves with the saw unless they are the thin rubber coated type.
> 
> ...



That is exactly what I do.  A pair of coated gloves for running the saw and cheap leather gloves for handling the wood.  I usually get 5 cords from a pair of leather gloves.


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## bigbarf48 (Mar 5, 2014)

BobUrban said:


> two schools of thought  super cheap or super expensive.  Both have advantages but I find the longevity advantage of quality does not supersede the price point.  Others mileage varies.  I use rubber dipped cotton and wrap the tips with duct tape.  Works well for me.
> 
> *Fire wood eats gloves of all quality!*




Pretty much this

Ive used standard leather work gloves, and they get holes in the fingers. Mechanix gloves lasted me maybe a couple weeks. I started using those rubber dipped ones and they've held up alright for the price. I think the way t go is the cheapest you can get in bulk and replace as needed


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## Macpolski (Mar 6, 2014)

Atlas 300 all the way for me. Feel, dexterity, and decent grip.  Use them for cutting, splitting and stacking. Oh yeah, inexpensive and hold up very well.  Only one downside for me  - my hands tend to sweat in warmer weather with gloves, hence the gloves tend to smell after a while.


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## ClassicSWC (Mar 6, 2014)

+1 on the cheepie rubber palm, knit top yellow ones from HD.  I had a bunch of hackberry to process and leather gloves only lasted literally hours. The rubber ones lasted weeks. Actually pitched two pair that weren't worn out but started to get pretty funky from dirt and sweat.


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## razerface (Mar 6, 2014)

then i use long welding gloves to load the stove. (top load) I need some 3 inches longer as I sport 3 to 4 burns at any time on my arms.
 It sure makes you jump when your arm touches!


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## midwestcoast (Mar 6, 2014)

I'm firmly in the Cheap camp for wood gloves. I've tried pretty heavy gloves from work & they still wear through.
When running a saw I will use leather gloves or whatever really, as long as it gives good grip & feel.
For splitting & stacking I use something like these from HD (mine are orange, but I don't see them in the website now) . Nitrile coated, not rubber/latex because I can't stand super grippy latex for splitting. I like my hand to slide on the axe handle like bare skin or leather. Nitrile does this pretty well. 
For less than $2 a pair, gloves like these fit pretty good and last about as long as decent leather before getting holes in the fingers. Medium weight.


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## ironspider (Mar 13, 2014)

I just tried a few different types. I've found that none will hold up to processing wood. I had high hopes for a pair of $15 nitrile coated gloves, they felt great and had great grip but started to fall apart after one day.  

So I will stick to the cheap latex coated $3 gloves. I'd love to find nitrile gloves at that price.


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## ironspider (Mar 13, 2014)

midwestcoast said:


> I'm firmly in the Cheap camp for wood gloves. I've tried pretty heavy gloves from work & they still wear through.
> When running a saw I will use leather gloves or whatever really, as long as it gives good grip & feel.
> For splitting & stacking I use something like these from HD (mine are orange, but I don't see them in the website now) . Nitrile coated, not rubber/latex because I can't stand super grippy latex for splitting. I like my hand to slide on the axe handle like bare skin or leather. Nitrile does this pretty well.
> For less than $2 a pair, gloves like these fit pretty good and last about as long as decent leather before getting holes in the fingers. Medium weight.
> View attachment 129079



I found these in a dozen pack at Home Depot but all the gloves had melted together. Otherwise I'd have tried them.


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## bassJAM (Mar 13, 2014)

I still vote for bare hands when it's 45-50 degrees and warmer.  Your fingertips might get a little sore for the first couple times, but eventually they'll toughen up and you won't think anything of it.  And you learn pretty fast how to pull splinters out with a pocket knife.


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## ironspider (Mar 13, 2014)

bassJAM said:


> I still vote for bare hands when it's 45-50 degrees and warmer.  Your fingertips might get a little sore for the first couple times, but eventually they'll toughen up and you won't think anything of it.  And you learn pretty fast how to pull splinters out with a pocket knife.[/quot



Helll no, not me.


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## jeffesonm (Mar 17, 2014)

I use the basic el-cheapo leather work gloves.  They are reasonably durable, moderately comfortable and cheap.  I tried better, more expensive gloves and while they were nicer to use, they're just not worth the extra money as they don't hold up to heavy use.


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## Pdesjr (Mar 18, 2014)

I've had good luck with the duluth trading work gloves. Had a pair for two years and just starting to wear out.


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## smokedragon (Mar 20, 2014)

jeffesonm said:


> I use the basic el-cheapo leather work gloves. They are reasonably durable, moderately comfortable and cheap


+1



bassJAM said:


> I still vote for bare hands when it's 45-50 degrees and warmer.


Depends on the wood.....some bark is REALLY hard on your hands, especially if you work an office job 5 days a week.  Plus, if you handle pine bare handed in 50+ degree weather, it will be the last time.  Have black spots on your hands for days afterwards.


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## bassJAM (Mar 20, 2014)

smokedragon said:


> Plus, if you handle pine bare handed in 50+ degree weather, it will be the last time.  Have black spots on your hands for days afterwards.



I've got an office job, but I try to pretend that I don't lol.  Funny you mention about the pine, I had a 9" diameter split from a cedar tree fall across my driveway Sunday, and I finally got around to cutting it up Tuesday.  Decided to trim up a pine tree at the same time that was hanging over the driveway and sidewalk and hauled all the branches over to the burn pit for a little bon fire.  Brake parts cleaner does wonders to pine tar on your hands!!  It takes that crap RIGHT off!


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## Driver (Mar 23, 2014)

Time to get a new pair out, used these all winter to bring wood in the house, plus CSS'd about 4 cords with them.
Harbor Freight 5 pack less than 10 bucks.


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## Kool_hand_Looke (Mar 23, 2014)

Deer skin.


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## jdp1152 (Apr 9, 2014)

my experience....cheap rubber dipped wool  (gray with blue dip) or the synthetic warmer weather version (white with orange dip) from home depot do the trick.  Cheap enough to throw away when the inevitable hole forms and durable enough to last you a while (warmer weather ones seem to last a bit longer than the winter ones).  Surprisingly, I've been using the same pair of the white ones since start of fall...and that includes moving several cords of wood and a few tons of stone.


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## wahoowad (Apr 10, 2014)

Driver said:


> Time to get a new pair out, used these all winter to bring wood in the house, plus CSS'd about 4 cords with them.
> Harbor Freight 5 pack less than 10 bucks.
> 
> 
> ...



A little ducttape and they will work like new


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## Hills Hoard (Apr 10, 2014)

i am hooked on those rubber dipped gardening gloves...haha....I wear them all the time...I rotate a pair usually because I put them through the washing machine frequently .......Maybe try a different brand because the ones i get just at our local supermarket last well over a year before I turf them....


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## mstoelton (Apr 10, 2014)

3 pack of wells lamont leather work gloves at Sams club for $19.95 picked them up tonight.


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## Bill the Dog (Apr 14, 2014)

I've been playing hockey for over 40 years and always wore out the palms of leather hockey gloves.  About 15 years or so ago, hockey glove manufacturers stopped using real leather in the palms.  They use some type of synthetic, leather-like material.  This stuff is about 10X more wear resistant than regular leather.  I don't know if you can even buy a pair of hockey gloves with real leather palms anymore.  This led me to buying work gloves with this same material.  The material is usually black in color.  These gloves cost about $12-15 at Fleet Farm and come in many different styles.  All leather work gloves normally last me about 5 cords CSS.  Far and away the splitting and stacking is the hardest on gloves.  With the synthetic "leather" gloves I go about 20-30 cords CSS.  You'll get almost as much finger feel from the synthetic "leather" as normal leather, but man they just don't wear out for me.
Sorry, I don't know any specific manufacturer or model numbers, but you'll know these when you see them.  For all of them that I've seen the synthetic "leather" is black.  My personal favorites have the synthetic "leather" in the palms and finger fronts and a stretchy material on the back of the hands and fingers.  These things fit from the start and wear a long, long time.
Anyway, one guys opinion.

Bill the Dog


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