# New CAB50 - Problems



## dan v. (Mar 9, 2014)

Hello all.  New member, and new to pellet stoves for that matter.  I have a shop building where I installed a new Heatilator Cab50.  The building is 22 x58 and uninsulated.   I know, it is asking a lot to heat that space, but I thought if I could raise the temp a bit it would be nice.

Shopped several dealers of the high end stoves before buying the CAB50 from the farm store.  Main reason was because the high end dealer told me that it had the same components as their expensive stove, and the bottom line to me was more reasonable.   Stove is raised up on an iron stand 13" and I am running ICC pipe.  From the connecter T it is 4" running straight up about 12' to a 2' long 45 degree section then through the ridge for a total run of about 18 feet.   The stove was manufactured summer of 2013, so most current changes I would assume.

First time installed it readily fired up.  All seemed well at first.  But then I recognized that it wasn't throwing much heat.   Convection fan came on briefly after being run for a half hour or so, then stopped, and came on again briefly when I shut the unit down.   Flame was inconsistent and almost died several times during the hour or so it was running.   Shut down operated as it should, as far as I know, pellets stopped dropping, flame dies, blower fan ran for a while before shutting off.

Read the manual for trouble shooting (a pretty good manual, I'd say).  Checked the hopper feed adjustment - all the way open.  Discovered the unit was shipped with control dial set to "1", and reset to "4" per the manual.  Hoped that would fix issues.

Next burn - flames better but still inconsistent.  Still not throwing heat.  Called customer service and discussed the convection blower not working.  Understood that should be on when the temp came up (red light in control on).   Bypassed snap disc #1 and fan came on, so assumed snap disc bad.

New snap disc arrived and installed.  Convection blower does not come on.

What is my next step?  Farm store where purchased has no service, but I am pretty capable of doing most of the work if I can get it diagnosed.   I'm thinking control box bad?

Another thing - It has been cold in the shop.  Although uninsulated the building is dug into a hillside so only the front and roof are above ground.  Rarely (or should I say most years) does it get below freezing in the building.  I realize that I am blowing cold air past a short flame path, but the highest air temp at the stove output has been 110 degrees.   I think it should be higher that that.....

A long post, I understand, but I think I have all the details.    I appreciate any help - lets see what we can do to get things right!  Thanks!


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## Mt Bob (Mar 9, 2014)

Inconsistant flames pretty normal,I would think,most auger feed systems are not consistant.Sounds like you are asking too much of the stove(candle in a tent?) but post some pictures of the flame/burn and someone on here can judge.


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## SwineFlue (Mar 9, 2014)

As you figured out,  your stove is basically a QuadraFire.   I think it has a different heat exchanger,  but most Quad maintenance/troubleshooting techniques should apply.

Are you running the stove on High?     Your initial flame description sounds like Low, how big do they get now that you have reconfigured the control box?   It will vary as pellets feed, but should be above the lip of the burnpot pretty much all the time.

The convection blower is controlled by that snap disc, not the red light.   The red light indicates that the burn pot is above 600 degrees and it's safe for the control box to continue feeding pellets.  The blower is turned on when the snap disc senses the body of the stove to be over 110 degrees.   Normally, this could be around 15-20 minutes later.   If your stove is cold-soaked, it will be longer still.   How much time are you giving the stove to warm up?

There is one user here who bypassed that snap disk with a switch, allowing him to manually turn on the blower sooner  (wired in parallel with the snap disk to protect against overheating the stove if the switch is not turned on).


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## Lake Girl (Mar 9, 2014)

What type of pellets are you using?  This would contribute to the problem of producing heat if they are poor quality pellets.  Softwoods produce the most heat.  Hardwoods need a higher level of combustion air.


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## Mpodesta (Mar 9, 2014)

By the sounds of it, I can assume your running it on low? what pellets are your burning?

On the low setting + a low BTU pellet will result in a long start up for the blower.

Take some pictures of your flame and let us know what the setting is for that flame. There is a feed gate in the hopper, what is set at? (how far is it slid open?)


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## dan v. (Mar 10, 2014)

Thanks for the replies.  Just about gone thru the first bag of pellets - Kirtland brand.   Been running on high.  At times the flame is burning right - 10" tall or so, but far too often flames just at the top of the burn pot.  Would like to have a more consistant high flame if possible.  Hopper feed gate open all the way.

I just figured this would throw more heat.  As I mentioned, the highest temp in the air path 1" from the stove has been 110 degrees - seems like it should be more than that.  I realize that the location is not ideal, being in the cold and all, but I think that it should have better output.

Turning up the dial on the control increases the pellet flow?  I should try going from 4 to a higher number?

Played with the stove for an hour or so yesterday while in the shop working.  It was about 32 degrees inside.  It took about 40 min for the convection fan to come on and it only came on for about 4 minutes or so.  Looking at the design of the stove, snap disc #1 is installed on a sheet metal panel that is about 3/4" from the fire box.  As the stove  warms up the sheet metal "oil cans" and puts it further away from the heat source.  Held the panel in towards the fire box and the fan came on again but only briefly.

Thought about that design.  Snap disc too far from heat source to work consistantly.  Moved snap disc to the exhaust blower tube and the convection blower worked.  As the exhaust blower tube conducts heat from the fire pot it seems like a better place from which to control the convection blower.  Then the blower would come on close to the green light/red light parameters of the control box.  So.... I may wire the snap disc to the tube and see how it affects performance.

Just want more output, guys.  Seems like in one thread reports of 200 degree at the stove in the blower airstream were common.  I think I need that.  Any ideas are appreciated.


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## Mpodesta (Mar 10, 2014)

Hey Dan.

which control box do you have?

7058-188 is supposed to be set at 2 blinks

7058-172 is set at 4

out of curiosity, what is your damper set at?

my gate is 3/4 open with full open damper, this is what my flame looks like on high.







Currently I run on Med with orford hardwoods and my output temp is around 170ish F. I don't have a reading for high (have yet to run it on high since i got the thermometer) but I can tell you that holding my hand in the airstream is uncomfortably hot


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## dan v. (Mar 11, 2014)

I'll check the control box # when I get home tonight.   Damper - I don't recall seeing anything of the damper in the instruction manual.   Where is this damper of which you speak?


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## The Ds (Mar 11, 2014)

In the Heatilator stoves the damper is underneath the ashpan. It's a little square of metal that rotates on a screw. We've never noticed it making a difference in our flame.....   We have an OAK, so plenty of air.


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## Bkins (Mar 11, 2014)

I would try to locate some Pro Pellets and see if you get the same thing.  If you have bad pellets they can cause all kinds of issues even in stoves that are said to be able to burn anything.  If you can't find Pro Pellets get another name brand pellet if you can find any with the pellet shortage in most areas.


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## maineah1214 (Mar 11, 2014)

I would verify the control board is set to the correct setting. That dial isn't something you should be messing with. The number it's on is dependent on the model of stove you have, not the amount of pellets you want it to feed. You may have it set for a different stove altogether. I have a Quad Santa Fe and I adjusted mine for the 10% boost, but that was it. There is a special setting for that. 

I'd also try some different pellets. Sounds like the stove is reaching the temp for the convection blower to kick on then it's cooling off enough to tell the convection blower to shut off. 

I'd also try closing the feed gate a little bit. Maybe it's feeding too many pellets and not getting to peak burn? I dunno. Just a thought there.


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## dan v. (Mar 11, 2014)

Contol Box is #7058-188.  Changed the dial to the correct #, which is #2, as verified by the tech I spoke with at HHT.  Interesting that units made in different years have different control boxes.

Sealed up the shipping bolt holes and the slots in the back panel per the tech bulletin that was in another CAB50 thread here.

Burned the last of the load of the Kirtland pellets, and replaced with another brand.  Having a brain flush and can't remember the brand name.  We'll see how it goes with those........


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## Mpodesta (Mar 14, 2014)

Hey Dan,

How did you end up? everything working for you?


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## dan v. (Mar 14, 2014)

Well, kinda back to the start.  Moving the control to "2" didn't seem to improve the burn.  Will barely stay fired on low, hardly better on medium.  Only looks good on high and that is only if there is about a quarter bag of pellets or more in the hopper - when it is low they just don't want to feed.

Had an interesting discussion with a tech at HHT.  Sounds like I should not have considered a pellet stove for my application.  According to the tech it won't do what I ask it to do.  My desire was to come home, start the stove, go have dinner, and come back to a warm shop.  The tech said that as most shops have high ceilings and poor insulation, a pellet stove has to be burning all the time to try and keep a shop warm - and will never get as hot and radiate heat as a wood stove will.  I have been in plenty of shops that used a wood stove and I expected the pellet stove to heat as well as a wood burner.  The previous owner of my shop had an old wood fired range in there and claimed it heated it up well.

I talked with a couple of dealers about my pellet stove wants, and none of them said one wouldn't suit my needs. I even had pictures to show them what the shop looks like.  They were more than happy to sell and install a pellet stove to the tune of $4k or so, and did not try to steer me to a wood burner.  One of the dealers said he would throw in a couple of ceiling fans if I bought from him - yeah, he understood I have a tall ceiling.

Looking like an expensive education, albeit I did it myself at half the cost of the dealers.  Live and learn.  Now the question is - cut the loss or start lowering the ceiling and insulating........

The HHT rep did say that increasing the pellet output by turning the control to "3" will increase the feed by 10 percent.  Burned for about two hours on high today.  Fifty degrees outside, 34 in the shop.  Temp didn't rise much after the two hour burn, but the flame seemed to be more steady.

Stay tuned.......


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## Mt Bob (Mar 14, 2014)

Yep,candle in a tent.Don't feel bad,we all have made mistakes.You need fast heat in your situation.If you need to do something fast,go to farm store and buy a double barrel stove kit and find 2 55 gal drums.Used them several times years ago back in MD to heat shops I rented(mostly old milking parlors.One I welded exhaust pipe tubing through upper barrel,hung cheap box fan behind,worked awsome.Also converted an old forced hot air oil burner to burn used motor oil.That probably would not be legal,now.Also,in one place,found old set of stage curtains(very heavy)and closed off(kind of) part of shop in really cold weather.Just throwin out ideas.Bob


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## saladdin (Mar 15, 2014)

dan v. said:


> Contol Box is #7058-188.  Changed the dial to the correct #, which is #2, as verified by the tech I spoke with at HHT.  Interesting that units made in different years have different control boxes.
> 
> Sealed up the shipping bolt holes and the slots in the back panel per the tech bulletin that was in another CAB50 thread here.
> 
> Burned the last of the load of the Kirtland pellets, and replaced with another brand.  Having a brain flush and can't remember the brand name.  We'll see how it goes with those........



Reply from HHT.

"They are exactly the same except the newer control box has some slight
exhaust blower voltage setting changes.  "


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## dan v. (Mar 22, 2014)

Thanks for the replies.  Been away for a week so haven't anything to add.  Will see what happens in the next several weeks as it may heat up outside.  Probably will not consider a wood stove in the future as a replacement.  As I only work in the shop a couple of hours per night a few times a week it just does not seem practicable to use a wood stove, as I wouldn't feel comfortable letting it burn out when I wasn't around.

Maybe that is because I am not familiarized with wood burners in general.   There is always the option of adding a cheap? woodstove to use in  the front part of the shop by the big garage door.  The building has a block chimney; the prior stove had a 6" pipe inserted into the chimney.   Don't new stoves have 8" pipe, and you need to run a liner up the chimney?


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## Gadgetman99 (Dec 7, 2014)

When we first got our Cab50, I had to close the pellet feed (in the hopper) all the way down as our pellets burned too hot and kept shutting the stove down. And I had a hell of a time getting it to close all the way down at first because there was a pellet stick sideways int he track not allowing me to close all the way. Even with the stove being in an un-insulated area, you should be able to get it to run. You might have to wait for it to get going and hit the reset so it can get up to temp, but it should run. This stove is a bit too finicky IMO. My old Reliant (16 year old) stove runs like a top no matter what. I just clean the clinker out of the burn pot once a day and empty ash every 6 months and it runs non-stop. Funny how an old 16 year old stove runs circles around this new one.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 7, 2014)

I have a suggestion, if the convection blower isn't coming on and staying on for the purposes of properly adjusting the burn so that at least the flame is set correctly per the manual I'd jump that snap disc.  This will allow the stove to be adjusted and while doing that the convection fan can be monitored to make certain it (the convection blower) isn't shutting itself down (they can do that all on their lone).   That way you can set the burn and monitor the convection blower.  With out the burn set correctly all temperature measurements are for naught.

The stove's controller should be in default mode for the stove you have.  The adjustment is made in high fire mode, and the damper may be needed.   

There are several things that might be going on, the candle in a tent is one of them as far as heat goes but first we have to produce the heat and not send it out the flue.  Then the heat must transfer to the convection air side of the stove, then and only then can it actually come out of the stove.


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## dan v. (Dec 7, 2014)

What a coincidence - just re-installed the stove yesterday and fired it up.  I added some insulation to the garage and wanted to see how she would work.  Fired it up, watched it for about 20 minutes and went to dinner.  When I got back about an hour later, the stove was out.  Couldn't get it to work again. Dead cold.

This morning I got it to fire again, but just can't get a high burn.  Flames (if it is usually just flying embers) rarely above the burn pot.  Pulled out the pellets and noticed that the feed auger didn't seem to work, but the motor was turning.  Shut down, and pulled the motor and auger.  The tube was full of pellets, but they were apparently bridging the opening for the chute to the burn pot.  Cleaned out, re-installed and fired up again.

It just does not want to burn high.  I think that pellets aren't dropping fast enough.  Feed gate has been from shut down to fully open, and the only way to get it produce flames is to continually push the reset button.  Something is not working........  Reading the troubleshooting guide and watching the video leads me nowhere.  Can't think of any thing else to try.

Maybe the magnetic switch is bad.  I will try jumping that, but don't think that will do anything.

Calling the MFG tomorrow for more help.  Thinking I have a lemon, and have wasted my bucks.  Hope not.


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## dan v. (Dec 7, 2014)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> I have a suggestion, if the convection blower isn't coming on and staying on for the purposes of properly adjusting the burn so that at least the flame is set correctly per the manual I'd jump that snap disc.  This will allow the stove to be adjusted and while doing that the convection fan can be monitored to make certain it (the convection blower) isn't shutting itself down (they can do that all on their lone).   That way you can set the burn and monitor the convection blower.  With out the burn set correctly all temperature measurements are for naught.
> 
> The stove's controller should be in default mode for the stove you have.  The adjustment is made in high fire mode, and the damper may be needed.
> 
> There are several things that might be going on, the candle in a tent is one of them as far as heat goes but first we have to produce the heat and not send it out the flue.  Then the heat must transfer to the convection air side of the stove, then and only then can it actually come out of the stove.



Last year, thinking the snap disc for the convection blower was bad, I got another.  I wired it to the metal box that the exhaust blower is on - so now the convection blower works when the exhaust temp is up - essentially the same as jumping the disc would do.

Controller in Default mode?  You mean the Blue light flashing/ numbered dial setting?  I had set it at three last year per HHT conversation.

Yeah, I agree that have to find a way to heat it up.  It does seem like the exhaust pipe is way hotter than the airstream when the convection blower is on.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 7, 2014)

dan v. said:


> Last year, thinking the snap disc for the convection blower was bad, I got another.  I wired it to the metal box that the exhaust blower is on - so now the convection blower works when the exhaust temp is up - essentially the same as jumping the disc would do.
> 
> Controller in Default mode?  You mean the Blue light flashing/ numbered dial setting?  I had set it at three last year per HHT conversation.
> 
> Yeah, I agree that have to find a way to heat it up.  It does seem like the exhaust pipe is way hotter than the airstream when the convection blower is on.



Default mode is the mode that controller should be in for the model stove it is controlling not the + or - anything and definitely not for another stove in the HHT line of quadrafire engined stoves.

Did you set the flame height according to the instructions in the manual?   If you couldn't, you may have to close down some of the draft opening and try that until you get the stove dialed in.

If there is too much draft the heat will go guess where, yup up that exhaust pipe, that is why it must be set correctly, after it is properly set then the controller can handle switching between the heat settings and not have the stove blow out the flame or while clean having a lazy fire..  If the fire goes lazy it is time to clean the stove.


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## dan v. (Dec 7, 2014)

Went out to the garage late this afternoon to work on the stove again.  Did three things.  Jumped the magnetic switch leads.  Closed the damper plate to about half.  Moved the snap disc back to the orig. location on the inside panel.

Started it up, and got it working pretty well.  What I think is that when I had the snap disc on the exhaust blower housing  (which got the convection blower  running sooner) it not only kept the firebox cool, but there must be something in the control that reads the temps from that snap disc, and having placed it in a hotter location than which it was designed for, it slowed the pellet feed.   Moving the snap disc back to the factory location got the pellet feed right, the box temp up, and it burned with a much more steady flame.  The warmer (hot) cabinet actually allowed it to actually blow (almost) hot air when the convection fan eventually came on.

So I may have been the cause of my own problems, but when I originally installed the stove the blower would rarely come on and stay on.  Maybe because it was much colder in the garage.  When I figured out how to make the blower work, it might have been the start of the poor operation.

So I have some more tuning to do.  Reset the control, and play with the damper.  Funny thing - the manual says nothing about the damper.  How is it supposed to work - closing it down should make the burn hotter?

Not going to call it right yet - but it looks like we're getting somewhere


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 7, 2014)

dan v. said:


> Went out to the garage late this afternoon to work on the stove again.  Did three things.  Jumped the magnetic switch leads.  Closed the damper plate to about half.  Moved the snap disc back to the orig. location on the inside panel.
> 
> Started it up, and got it working pretty well.  What I think is that when I had the snap disc on the exhaust blower housing  (which got the convection blower  running sooner) it not only kept the firebox cool, but there must be something in the control that reads the temps from that snap disc, and having placed it in a hotter location than which it was designed for, it slowed the pellet feed.   Moving the snap disc back to the factory location got the pellet feed right, the box temp up, and it burned with a much more steady flame.  The warmer (hot) cabinet actually allowed it to actually blow (almost) hot air when the convection fan eventually came on.
> 
> ...




A snap disc is a simple piece of metal, it is a switch.   It sends nada for information to the control except to tell it hey dummy turn on that convection blower or else, the or else comes later when the high limit kicks out and tells the controller hey dummy I'm too blasted hot so shut down or else.  By then the poor controller is scared of its own shadow and dumps the fire while raising the white flag of surrender.

Closing the damper reduces the air flow through the stove and out the vent plus if the flame isn't correct it also corrects that allowing the fire to burn guess what?  Yup hotter.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 7, 2014)

That damper allows you to control the air part of the air to fuel ratio the feed gate inside the hopper allows you to control the fuel part of the air to fuel ratio.  When the flame is at the correct height on the high firing rate the ratio is ideal and the fire delivers its best heat.  If adjusting just the fuel feed doesn't get it set correctly that damper gets the ratio into the proper range.  This is standard burning 101, the same for oil fueled systems, gas fueled, and so forth.


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## Dmichigan (Dec 7, 2014)

Run the damper wide open the fuel rod is set per brand of pellets you use, My stove came set to #2, damper open and fuel rod open. After burning 6 brands i have it set to 1/2 open fuel rod and damper open. If its new why would you start moving stuff around? Leave the damper alone, if the fire is going out is because it's getting to much or to little fuel


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 7, 2014)

You move that damper if moving the fuel rod does not get the flame height on high to where it belongs, that is why one would close the damper and that is why it is there.


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## dan v. (Dec 8, 2014)

Thanks for the replies.  Smokey - I assumed the snap discs were just a thermoswitch, so not sure why relocating the disc was part of the better burning.  Must have just been a coincidence the pellets were feeding better.

Dmi - Things were moved around because the damn thing does not work well.  When I got it, the inst manual was for an earlier model - the later dated builds had a diff control so I set the control for what the manual said, only finding out later that the unit needed a diff setting.  The blower operated erratic.  There is a service bulletin having one seal up gaps in the unit.  If no pellets feed to the fire it goes out - have to find out why they don't feed and start investigating, right?

It is just so strange to me - the pellet feed rate is only set/adjusted by moving the gate in the hopper?  I can the gate wide open and still not get a high burn.

A lot of controls in there I don't understand.  What does the vacuum tube going to the pellet auger do, and what does the snap disc on the auger chute do.  Does the auger motor turn faster when the switch is set to high, rather than med or low?


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## Dmichigan (Dec 8, 2014)

Auger and fan speed change with the switch, the fan should not change speed on its own, are you using the thermostat it came with? A video showing start up and operation would help us to.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 8, 2014)

High burn is selected by placing the heat setting switch to the high position.  The feed restricter in the hopper is a trimming device for the fuel to air ratio, the damper is a trimming device for the air part of that ratio between the two you can get the stove properly dialed in.  The dial in for this stove is flame height when the heat switch is set to high.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 8, 2014)

Dmichigan said:


> Auger and fan speed change with the switch, the fan should not change speed on its own, are you using the thermostat it came with? A video showing start up and operation would help us to.




Don't be too sure of that various pellet stove controllers do in fact change both feed rate and exhaust speed on start up and again when they exit start up,  in fact some have also been known to having had their start up programs changed from one year to next year.

Then we have others that continuously monitor and change them.  Life has gotten really complicated in what used to be a the simple world of pellet roasting.


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## dan v. (Dec 18, 2014)

Was about ready to give up on this pellet burner.  Nothing would make the flame burn steadily higher than an inch or so above the pot when on high.  Just didn't seem to drop enough pellets.  Called the mfgr again and hoped to speak with the engineers once more, but they changed policy and won't allow that any longer.  Was told to call the authorized service center, which is a store about a 45 min drive away, and get a service man to look at it.  (The tractor store where I purchased the unit has no service).  Anyway, the authorized service center told me that a service call would cost me $120- minimum, even though my unit is under warranty, and that they rarely travel to my location.  They haven't sold Heatilators in years. Not real encouraging.

Got caught up on errands on my day off yesterday and took a road trip to the shop mentioned above, thinking that I may look for a different unit.  Spent some time talking with the very attractive red haired young lady that was manning the floor that afternoon.  She wrote me up for the service call, and started talking with me about pellets, and stated that some brands just don't want to burn.  She suggested trying a couple of bags of different pellets, to see how they would burn for me.  So - I hauled home with two bags of Uncle Jed's, and two bags of Somersets, and low expectations.

Got home and cleaned out the old pellets and threw in about a quarter bag of the Jeds.  They fired up quickly and burned high.  Long story short, but it was the only time that the Cab 50 worked as designed.  Burned high, med, and low.  Moving the feed control rod made a difference.  The convection fan came on and stayed on.  I am dumfounded at how well this stove works now.

So I had been through at least four other brands of pellets with lousy results.  One change and all works well.  It is that the Jed's are softwood, or that they are much shorter than the other brands?

Who would have thunk it?  I would have not believed it if someone on the internet told me that just changing the pellet would cure it's ills. I'm a believer now.


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## Dpopps (Dec 18, 2014)

Glad you got it going. I have tried 6 brands in mine so far without any problems. It sounds like the pellets you had got wet or maybe had moisture in them?


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## saladdin (Dec 19, 2014)

It's a great stove, really. You'll love it now.


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## TonyVideo (Dec 20, 2014)

Sounds like you had pellets that had absorbed some moisture at one time. If they are sold outside make sure individual bags were covered. One ton pallets have a big bag placed over them along with shrink wrap and can be stored outside. The good places always store them indoors. TSC stores them outside but once they break open a pallet they store them inside the double doors where I shop for individual bag purchases. My stove dealer stores them all indoors.


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## St_Earl (Dec 20, 2014)

something like that must have happened. even with budget pellets, i think the likelihood of four different brands not burning in a stove that is not at all finicky, seem vanishingly small.
i'm glad you got running.


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## Hdhogger (Dec 20, 2014)

St_Earl said:


> something like that must have happened. even with budget pellets, i think the likelihood of four different brands not burning in a stove that is not at all finicky, seem vanishingly small.
> i'm glad you got running.


X'2 haven't had a problem burning any pellet so far. Yes some are ashier or have more clinkers, doesn't change my cleaning and maintenance schedule per manual,  this stove has been great.

danv, Let her rip!  Glad your on track. Your going to love this burner!


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## dan v. (Jan 24, 2018)

I thought it may be time for an update.  Wow - four years since I got the help from this forum.  Since last posting, I have insulated the garage some more.  Firing up the stove, it heats the space to a sweatshirt  level in an hour and a half or so on most winter days.  For the most part, I have stayed with Jed's and Somerset pellets.

Still no love for other brands of pellets sold at the big box or tractor stores.  Just varying rates of less satisfying burns.  For the 6 to 8 bags burned per winter I will stick with the ones above.

Cab 50 working well, although getting rust spots all over the hot parts of the cabinet.  Been pretty happy with it.  Now thinking of a unit for fireplace insert at home.....


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