# Jotul 550 - Its a BEAST... Any advice on how to tame?



## plazorisak (Jan 10, 2008)

We recently moved in a "new to us" home and bought the Jotul 550 to fit into the existing fireplace.  Several factors went into this decision - the price of oil, the BIG existing firebox, the open floor plan, and the vaulted ceiling opening up to the 2nd floor.  I think we are feeding about 1800 sq feet ... I think (we have a baby and I do not have much time for Math or anything else lately).

Anyway - this Beast arrived before Christmas and I have been struggling with expectations vs. how to best work it.  I can get the unit hot (400 or so as measured on the pipe) but the fire seems to be on the down cycle by the time the house gets warm?  I can get the thermostat to hover at about 68 or 69 degrees when it is 0 - 10 outside, which is ehh OK....  but maybe I need to employ a different tactic for hotter more prolonged heat?  (here is where I may be expecting too much).

Since I am heating a larger space with a unit that takes some time to get humming, do I need to somehow prolong the cycle?  Does this mean that I should just keep feeding this Beast like a locomotive until I get the desired results, then throw on my big logs and put her on simmer?  

I am use to a smaller wood stove in a smaller space - so perhaps I am just being gun shy in my use of wood?   The firebox of an insert definitely is more "squatter" (fatter but not as tall) than a wood stove ... so that seems to be throwing me too...  Is there a more efficient technique I should be using?


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## kwilly (Jan 10, 2008)

I have gas fire logs that are not controlled by a thermostat. Can a gas solenoid valve controlled by a thermostat be placed between the combination control valve and the burner?


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## Jags (Jan 10, 2008)

No Ya - It doesn't sound like you are doing anything inherently wrong other than being a little stingy with wood.  It is not uncommon for a stove to consume the first (cold) load of the day to get the stove up to temp and starting the thermal gain in the house.  After the first load has burned and moving into the coaling stage, load'er up again.  Allow this load to char and then start taming the primary air down for your extended burn.

That stove is advertised at 1800 or 2000 sqft (depending on where on their website you look) so you are at the very edge of its heating capacity.  This typically means that you will be running it fairly hard (hot) to get the expected output from this stove.  That also translates into consuming more wood. 

This stove is rated for a 10 hr extended burn but that does not mean that throwing in a load of wood and lighting a match will get you a 70 deg house for 10 hrs.

How does this stove react after the second load?


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## Highbeam (Jan 10, 2008)

If you don't have one already, get a stove top thermometer to monitor the actual stove temp. Run the stove up around 600 and feed wood as needed to keep it there. 

"After the first load has burned and moving into the coaling stage, load’er up again.  Allow this load to char and then start taming the primary air down for your extended burn."

This is pretty close, but the amount you tame the primary air will be only as needed to keep the stove at the desired temperature.


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## boostnut (Jan 10, 2008)

"Does this mean that I should just keep feeding this Beast like a locomotive until I get the desired results, then throw on my big logs and put her on simmer"

If its anything like my Jotul 450 than, yes. If I start with it cold I typically burn the first load hot until the house gets to about 70 degrees (this is the temp we prefer). At that point, reload and continue to burn hot for a few minutes then shut it down about 80%. Keep in mind that there are a number of variables here. Different wood will require more or less air to maintain your houses temp, outside conditions including wind, temp, and humidity will play games with your insert, and the efficiency of your house possibly is the biggest factor. The moral of the story is patience. Get a thermometer to monitor for reference and try different methods. What works in my house probably wont be right for yours, its a game of trial and error at first. 

1 question for you, what are you burning and how long ago was it cut and split?


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## babalu87 (Jan 10, 2008)

How do you get up to speed quickly to get on the highway...........mash the throttle right?

Mash the throttle on the stove, fill er up and let it rip until the house is where you want it then re-load and damper it down.


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## plazorisak (Jan 11, 2008)

Great advice.  Thank you for your posts.  I think I have been expecting too much on the cold start to really give any subsequent starts a fair chance.  

To answer some of the questions:  

I have several cords of 'seasoned for over a year' hardwoods - mixed variety.  I don't think, however that this is a fuel issue as much as it is a user issue.  I have an 'ol reliable wood stove in the basement (separate flue) and I can get it as hot as Arizona in July using the same wood source.

I am beginning to think that I, and not the stove, needs to be broken in.  I think that the glass door has made me creosote paranoid.  I am getting some deposits from the overnight cycle and feel that I am under-firing the unit.  I removed the surround and attached a thermometer to the pipe to 'experiment.'   You see... I could not seem to get a good enough read by sticking the thermometer to the door... so  I.... well, I removed the surround... and anyway that is how it goes.  (Yes, my wife is annoyed that I have pulled apart the new stove to see how it works).

In my creosote paranoia, I have noticed that starting from coals has led to more creosote deposits.... but I may be using too large of logs on the restart?  which may be smoldering?   I never really worried too much about creosote until I got a door made out of glass.     BTW - I have to reinstall the surround this weekend.  Any idea how to better place the thermometer?  I cannot put it ontop of the stove... do I just put it on the door and wait?


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## Gooserider (Jan 11, 2008)

Bear in mind that the thermometer is more a "relative temperature" indicator than it is "absolute gospel" - I would either get a second thermometer, or get used to moving one back and forth between the pipe and the door, and figure out a rough equivalency of "X* on the pipe = Y* on the door"...  That way you can put the surround back on and still know about what the pipe temperature is.  (Note though that some folks report that they get less heat when they have the surround on, especially if they are using an outside chimney.)

Gooserider


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## Hogwildz (Jan 11, 2008)

You have to also factor in, your warming up a cold area. If you are going to burn 24/7, you can try and space 3- 8hr load her ups and after a bit, the house walls, furniture, etc become same temperature as the air, and will be easier to raise everything several degrees, rather than from a cold start trying to warm the air and the contents of the home. I personally find that spaced full loads burned hot works great for me. Less temperature swing of not only the air but the contents of the house between loads.


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## jadm (Jan 13, 2008)

Do you have a blower to move the warm around and thus heat up your room more?  

My insert will heat up and stay warm up close to it but if I want more heat in the room I have to use the blower which kind of slows the heating process up.  I'm still experimenting with this and am considering the Jotul 550. (I have a Napoleon now and it's too small.)  I'm hesitant in purchasing the 550 because it is a new model and there isn't much info. out there from consumers.  I love it's looks but wonder about heat loss with it mounted flush.  I know I get extra radiant heat from the cast iron that extends about 4" into our room.  Without a blower on the 550 it seems like a lot of the heat would be escaping up your chimney instead of getting out into your room where you want it.


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## plazorisak (Jan 15, 2008)

At first, I actually liked the Jotul 450 better, with the Tamarack surround and ash lip.. I thought that was a pretty unique look and it would fit our contemperary style home nicely.  I even switched my order in late November to the 450 because I was tired of being put off with regard to the 550's delivery date.  But to my surprise, a 550 arrived the day my 450 was supposed to come in. 

I was sold on the 550 anyway because of 1.) single swinging door vs. the "butterfly" doors of the 450  2.) bigger heating capacity 3.)  My "Chief of Finance " liked the look of the 550 better and thought it would be better for the baby.

I would probably say that most inserts now are pretty advanced in their designs and tend to reflect the heat back into the room.  I am not an expert but I believe that my 550 is actually inserted into a sleeve to create a box within a box. There is about a 1 - 2 inch space between the stove and the insert sleeve.  Air gets sucked in from the blower (standard feature) at the bottom of the stove, travels along the bottom and up the back before exiting out the top front - several inches over the top of the door.  The air getting pushed out into the room is pretty hot - depending on how the stove is burning.  

I have to say I am pretty happy with the stove.  It took some postings for me to come to terms with my expectations.  Also, over the weekend it was pretty windy and the stove really started responding.....   and so arrived the moment of clarity.  

I skimped out on the install and went with the retro fit, 3 foot up the chimney liner, vs. the full liner.  I am getting draw - just not that extra ummppff to make this stove truly outstanding.   Nice little $$$ lesson to teach me not to cut corners.... again.   Is there a cure for this?


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## begreen (Jan 15, 2008)

Now each time the flue is cleaned the stove needs to be pulled. 
The cure is a full liner & block off plate. Going through that process will remind you to do it right the first time. 


BTW, is the chimney fully tile lined? Is this an interior or exterior chimney?


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## RonB (Jan 15, 2008)

NoYo,  It would also be beneficial for you to see the following wood burning video, if you haven't already.  

http://www.ec.gc.ca/cleanair-airpur/default.asp?lang=En&n=8011CD70-1


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## jadm (Jan 15, 2008)

NoYa- A few questions for you.  I went and looked at a Jotul 550 today after having read about them here and in their literature.  Always helps me to physically check things out.  It is an insert that I have considered over the past month of my researching stoves/inserts.

What I want to know from you since you have one up and running is; How loud are the blowers?  Can you use one or do both have to be used?  Can you turn them up and down manually or is it auto?

Noticed that damper control is on top of the insert.  How does that work?  Mine is located on the bottom and all the other insert/stoves I have looked at have the dampers on the bottom with the exception of a couple of brands.  Is the air channel on top?

All of the inserts I have looked at thus far have fire bricks lining the bottom of the firebox.  The 550 only has fire bricks on the sides and back.  Is the floor steel or cast iron?  How does this affect the functioning of the stove?

Are the baffles easily removed for cleaning when a sweep comes and cleans out the chimney/liner?  I don't want a unit that has to be pulled out of the fireplace every time I have the chimney swept - which is twice a year.

Does the cast iron surround radiate a lot of heat into your room?  Does it compensate for the fact that this is a flush model?

How does your stove handle coals?  Do they burn down pretty well on cold days or do they begin to pile up on you so you can't load it really full after awhile thus not being able to run it at a high temp - 450-500 degrees?


It really is a nice looking insert and a lot more solid looking than the unit I currently have.


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## soxfan13 (Jan 15, 2008)

I know I have said this on another thread but be careful with clearance on the 550.  In the catalog I took from the stove shop it said that clearance (floor to 1" trim above stove) was NA.  Then I read the owners manual online and Jotul switched the clearance to 51".  I will probably need a mantle shield now because I only have 46".

Also, at least around here, they are hard to get.  I ordered mine in Nov. and it was supposed to be in last Friday but now I am told I have to wait until the beginning of Feb.

By the way...I hope it is a beast!


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## jadm (Jan 15, 2008)

Soxfan 13  Called my sweep this morning to have him measure fireplace to see if one will fit my fireplace.  My mantle will have to be be raised because I know I do not have that clearance but I have a friend who can do that no sweat for me.  

Saw a unit yesterday and was told that they do have 2 inserts in stock so I know I can get one...Just waiting to see if it will fit.


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## plazorisak (Jan 16, 2008)

Perplexed

I must admit that your questions have made me feel inadequate.  I wish I would have asked at least half those questions before buying.  We focused on: what color does it come in and when can it be delivered....  Although I do not have all of the answers - here is what I have observed:

The blower consists of 2 fans run by 1 switch.  You can either run on auto or manual.  The fan speed is either off, high or any infinite adjustment in-between.  I have adjusted mine to run on what I feel to be "medium."  

Since the blower consists of 2 fans, it is inevitable that you will hear that industrial whir.  The degree to which you hear this whir is determined by the speed: higher = louder.  We have a downdraft fan for our kitchen stovetop and that fan is LOUD even on low.  Using that as a comparison, the Jotul is relatively quiet.

I use the blower ALL the time on auto.  Since I always use the blower, I would probably have to say that the insert would be lost without it in my house.  The insert is in a large living room with a vaulted ceiling that opens up to bedrooms on the 2nd floor.  Without the blower, the 2nd floor will get some heat and the living room will be OK. With the blower running, it all gets warm.  

I know my insert has "cast iron parts."  I imagine these parts are the door, surround and all of the pretty parts.  The guts are most likely steel - including the "floor."  The damper on top seems to work just fine, and the "airwash" function for the glass seems to be working better now that I am burning hotter.  I was definitely underfiring the stove and that caused all kinds of deposits on the glass, poor performance, etc.  ... after posting on the site and following some advice, I can say that I am definitely pleased with the 550.

I have noticed some coals in the morning, but cannot determine if that is a function of the cold weather or running the stove with the damper mostly closed during the night.  With the damper 50% open or more, the coals are very few.

I hope that helps.  I am a fan of my Jotul, but I certainly cannot say that buying this stove has been a great experience.  I ordered it back in August with the expectation that it would be delivered in Oct / Nov. the latest.   I was definitely over promised and under delivered.  But hey, I am not whinning.... c'est le vie.  I am burning wood and life is good.


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## jadm (Jan 16, 2008)

NoYa- Thanks for your reply.  I can get my 550 right away because my dealer has 2 in stock.  The only problem I am having now is waiting for my sweep to come and check out my clearance space and we just got snow so I have to wait for the weather to clear up again.

My concern now is, after reading the manual which I got faxed to me, that our chimney isn't tall enough.  Reading through install instructions it requires 15' min. and my sweep thinks my chimney isn't that tall.....grrrr.
If it isn't one thing it is another 

While I wait out the weather I post chimney height questions here so I am armed with info!

Now that I have finally made my decision about the 550 I do not want to go back out there and start this process all over again.  Wears me out


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## begreen (Jan 16, 2008)

Don't worry, there's a solution. If you run a stainless liner up and insulate it, you may be fine with the minimum chimney height. It can even terminate in a rigid ss pipe extension of 2-3 feet. Or you can add an Extend-a-Flue. 

http://www.extendaflue.com/


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## jadm (Jan 16, 2008)

BeGreen...I just PMed you in regards to your response to the topic I had about chimney clearances.  Sorry, I didn't look at this topic when I went hunting assuming that you had responded on one of my topics....This all gets pretty confusing to a new forum person and one who has very little computer experience too boot.

I have a ss liner already in place although it is not insulated because it is already in an existing chimney and insulation was not recommended.  My sweep/installer does not like the extensions as they attract more creosote due to the temp. differences.  He will come out Sat. to get a more accurate measurement.

I did ask you this in the PM but I will ask again here.  Are the chimney heights requirements or are they recommendations?

I'm going to write down where I am leaving messages so I can keep better track!!  I am glad someone out there is on top of things


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## EddyKilowatt (Jan 16, 2008)

NoYa -- You can get dial thermometers with stem lengths in the 12" to 24" range, which would let you put the sensing part of the stem in your flue and the dial on the face of your surround.  Flue temp is a great way to monitor how hard your stove is working.  Google "dial thermometer" or "tel-tru manufacturing" (they made the one I have and use), you are looking for something industrial strength that will read up into the 750-1000F range.

Eddy


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## begreen (Jan 16, 2008)

perplexed said:
			
		

> BeGreen...I just PMed you in regards to your response to the topic I had about chimney clearances.  Sorry, I didn't look at this topic when I went hunting assuming that you had responded on one of my topics....This all gets pretty confusing to a new forum person and one who has very little computer experience too boot.
> 
> I have a ss liner already in place although it is not insulated because it is already in an existing chimney and insulation was not recommended.  My sweep/installer does not like the extensions as they attract more creosote due to the temp. differences.  He will come out Sat. to get a more accurate measurement.
> 
> ...



I don't think the installer's concern about adding 2-3 feet to the chimney is justified. However, it won't hurt to try the stove with the existing setup to see how it draws. MIf it's a foot shy of 15ft. my guess is that it might be ok in cold weather, but perhaps lackluster in milder weather. If you get smoke spilling out of the doors and a lazy flame, add to the stack. An extend-a-flue can be retrofitted. 

The difference in creosote buildup with more exterior length should be negligible, especially if good dry wood is burned. EPA stoves just don't put out as much as older stoves do. I have ~7 feet exposed and so far it is a non-issue. Just burn hot enough with good quality wood. 

- BG


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## jadm (Jan 17, 2008)

Thanks for reply on my chimney question BeGreen.  What do you consider milder weather temps?  The temps here range from 0 - mid 40s for typical winter weather and in spring and fall 40's and above.

Would love more input on an extend-a-flue.  Is it just more ss added to the liner as it leaves the chimney?


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## boostnut (Jan 17, 2008)

Perplexed, I'm not sure I'd worry too much about your chimney height. No, I'm not an expert by and stretch of the imagination but my Jotul 450 is running without any problems thru a 12' or 13' chimney (uninsulated flex thru an existing interior masonary chimney) . Run whatcha brung and see what happens. You can always add the extension later if needed.


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## jadm (Jan 17, 2008)

Boostnut - Thanks for letting me know yours draws fine.. 

I'm thinking more that this isn't a code issue as much as it is an operating function ie. how well the unit will pull air through.

Can someone explain what an extend-a-flue is?  I'm thinking that it isn't increased ss liner but rather something like a sleeve made out of ceramic material.  The liner I have now is ss and not insulated and it does extend about a foot above my chimney and it has never been a problem. The 550 is a bit bigger than what I have now so there won't be that much difference -that's an uneducated guess.  I'm figuring heat is heat and draft is draft..



NoYa - Another question for you.  There is only one review of this stove on this site.  He complained about being smoked out when starting up a fire and the smoke coming out of the stove even with the door closed.  Have you had this problem?


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## plazorisak (Jan 18, 2008)

Here is what I have experienced with smoke:

When operated improperly and impatiently, yes - you will get significant smoke within the firebox.  I have not had any smoke leak out of the unit - but I have had some pretty dark moments inside the box.  

When operated properly, the stove works great.  The video on the top down fire is a good source for how to operate properly.  Also, I find building a small hot fire and continuing to build up from there works every time.

I admit, sometimes I get a little lazy and throw on a log that is just too big for the coals and fire that I have built up.  The "too big" log will smolder, billow dark angry smoke, then eventually catch on and burn.  Sometimes to accelerate the process, I will crack open the door a tad and create swirling drafts until "too big" has burned to my satisfaction.

Now, I am not saying that the other person is operating incorrectly - BUT, I do find in my own operation that significant smoke is a result of improper ... or rather impatient...use.


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## soxfan13 (Jan 18, 2008)

NoYa Maine
Do you have a thermometer?  If so where do you place it since the 550 is flush, and what temps are you getting?

Thanks for the info.  Still waiting ( kind of impatiently) for my 550 to be installed.


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## begreen (Jan 18, 2008)

perplexed said:
			
		

> Can someone explain what an extend-a-flue is?



It's a flue extension. After visiting the website and reading the literature, what don't you understand? 

http://www.extendaflue.com/


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## jadm (Jan 18, 2008)

BeGreen - Found more info. on it last night so now I got it.  Simple enough,eh!


NoYa- Sounds like you start up fires how I do it now in my Napoleon so I will just keep on doing that when I get the 550.  I have tried other ways in the past but it just hasn't worked as well and I didn't have much luck with the top down method but I have only tried that once after watching the video.  Seemed like it took much longer to get my insert generating heat and humming along at a high temp.  I like to get it up to 500 and keep it there as long as possible.  I will try it again when I get the 550 though.


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## plazorisak (Jan 18, 2008)

Soxfan 13 (go SOX!)

I have a standard magnetic.. but I am not happy with it.  It is currently magnetized just above the door... but this area tends to stay a lot cooler than the stove.  I have removed the surround for experimentation purposes - testing the temp of the pipe vs. the door... but I cannot seem to get a good reference for ratio purposes:  ie 450 on the pipe = 250 on the door.  It just seems that the door temp (just above the door) lags too much from the pipe temto have this measurement make any sense.

Soo.... Eddy Kilowat had an interesting post on this thread and I am going to follow through on it.  He recommended a dial thermometers with a stem length of 12” to 24” range.  His quote "Google “dial thermometer” or “tel-tru manufacturing” (they made the one I have and use), you are looking for something industrial strength that will read up into the 750-1000F range. "

I thought that was pretty good advice and will be placing an order this weekend.


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## FrankMA (Jul 18, 2008)

Hello! I'm a new member and soon to be owner of a Jotul C550. My installation date is July 31st and I'm like a kid the last couple of weeks before Christmas - you remember how that felt. 

I'm glad I ordered my insert back in late June as I hear it's getting insane out there with delivery and installation times running several months in advance. I've also heard that some dealers have already exhausted their supply of stoves for this year

I had 3 cords of seasoned hardwood delivered last Saturday and have been busy building storage racks and loading them up. I wanted to get this squared away sooner than later. Some people say that wood prices are going to go up as well.

After reading the posts on this thread, I'm glad I purchased the C550. I read as much as I could about inserts prior to my purchase but did not find as much good advice and knowledge as I have found here at Hearth.com. 

I know this is going to sound crazy, but I almost can't wait for the first cold snap to happen.

Woodsy


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## Jags (Jul 18, 2008)

woodsy said:
			
		

> Hello! I'm a new member and soon to be owner of a Jotul C550. My installation date is July 31st and I'm like a kid the last couple of weeks before Christmas - you remember how that felt.
> 
> I'm glad I ordered my insert back in late June as I hear it's getting insane out there with delivery and installation times running several months in advance. I've also heard that some dealers have already exhausted their supply of stoves for this year
> 
> ...



Hold on there woodsy, lets not be wishing the warm summer days away.  It'll get cold soon enough.  After several years burning, the excitement starts to wane. 

Welcome to the site and congrats on your choice of a fine stove.


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## begreen (Jul 18, 2008)

I'll say. I am in no hurry for summer to go away. It can stick around until November and I wouldn't be complaining. 

That's a beautiful insert, be sure to post back impressions once the season starts.


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## Gooserider (Jul 18, 2008)

Welcome to the forums Woodsy, and congratulations on the stove choice...  

3 cords is a decent start on the wood pile, but you might want to consider getting more, especially if you will be using the insert for primary heating.  I'm near Lowell, and last winter I went through about 4 to 5 cords using a VC Encore Cat for primary heating.  Also if you can get a season or two ahead, you can purchase green wood at a considerably lower cost and season it yourself.  (You will also probably get more reliably seasoned wood, as what most wood guys sell as seasoned, most of the folks here would consider to be still mostly green...)  Of course the best bargain is to purchase grapple loads of log length and process it yourself, but that is a lot of added work, and requires that you have a pretty good bit of available space.

Gooserider




			
				woodsy said:
			
		

> Hello! I'm a new member and soon to be owner of a Jotul C550. My installation date is July 31st and I'm like a kid the last couple of weeks before Christmas - you remember how that felt.
> 
> I'm glad I ordered my insert back in late June as I hear it's getting insane out there with delivery and installation times running several months in advance. I've also heard that some dealers have already exhausted their supply of stoves for this year
> 
> ...


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## gibson (Jul 19, 2008)

[quote author="Gooserider" date="1216433538"]Welcome to the forums Woodsy, and congratulations on the stove choice...  

3 cords is a decent start on the wood pile, but you might want to consider getting more, especially if you will be using the insert for primary heating.  I'm near Lowell, and last winter I went through about 4 to 5 cords using a VC Encore Cat for primary heating.  Also if you can get a season or two ahead, you can purchase green wood at a considerably lower cost and season it yourself.  (You will also probably get more reliably seasoned wood, as what most wood guys sell as seasoned, most of the folks here would consider to be still mostly green...)  Of course the best bargain is to purchase grapple loads of log length and process it yourself, but that is a lot of added work, and requires that you have a pretty good bit of available space.

Gooserider


I just bought a Jotul 550 and am interested to see what I will burn.  I have 4 cords ready to go.  I have a 2800 sf colonial but only heating about 2000 sf with wood.  A friend heats 2400 sf with a 30 year old, non epa, better n' bens insert and only burns 3 cords per year.


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## jadm (Jul 19, 2008)

Welcome Woodsy-

I have two suggestions: 

 While it is summer, if you can stand it, do your 'break in' fires while you can have plenty of ventilation.  The fumes are not pleasant!

I'd like to ditto the suggestion on having another cord of wood on hand if you are going to be burning 24/7.   My first insert had a smaller firebox and I used anywhere from 2 1/2 cords to 3 cords of hard wood a season.  My 550 was installed last January and it used more wood...also produced more heat..  I ordered 4 cords for next season.  I do hope to get that amount down as I get better at burning.  I'm still in the beginning of the learning curve with the 550.

Enjoy


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## FrankMA (Jul 19, 2008)

Thanks to all for the warm (no pun intended) welcome and sound advice. 

I was thinking of having one more cord delivered as an insurance policy - I don't want to be scrounging for wood in February or March. As some of you have said, there's a learning curve that needs to be developed before I know how much wood is enough to last through the winter. Winters can be brutally harsh sometimes and I plan on using wood as my primary heat source. 

I inquired to my oil supplier about this heating season's oil prices and was told "most likely in the $ 4.50 - 5.00/gallon range". I generally use about 800 gallons/heating season which translates into $ 3,600.00 - $ 4,000.00 _*(YIKES)*_ at these insane prices. At this rate, my new insert would pay for itself in about 2 heating seasons (insert plus installation less the cost for wood).

I had actually considered doing this last year after calling my oil supplier and getting last season's "lock-in" prices - $ 2.899 on the low end and $ 3.159 max on the high end. These "lock-in" prices are good until August 1st of this year so I had my two 275 gallon tanks topped-off (@ $ 3.159/gallon) before the new prices go into effect. It's kind of funny - I thought $ 3.159/gallon was horrendous last year when I got my quote but that is now a bargain! Needless to say, it made my decision to go with wood heating fairly easy. My wife was even on-board after I ran the numbers by her.


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## Edmccabe (Dec 18, 2008)

I have been using a 550 nearly 24/7 since I installed it September and am satisfied by its performance - but have yet been able to figure out the primary air routing. Study of the parts diagram suggests it is all at the top front.

Is there any diagram or air flow schematic that I have missed?

My only source of irritation with the unit is the frequent need to remove the ash - about 10 days max.

Ed


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## Shari (Dec 18, 2008)

Logon,

That is awesome stonework!

(says a mason's daughter)

Shari


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## Custerstove (Dec 18, 2008)

Hey Logon, very very nice mantle. As for the stove, the primary air enters at the air control lever. In fact, if you put a match up to the control lever you will see the flame being sucked into the stove (I'm assuming the stove has a fire going). Beyond that point, the air flow and path is probably very complex. If you find a diagram, please post and share.


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## Edmccabe (Dec 18, 2008)

Certainly will.

Ed


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## czorbach (Jun 11, 2009)

I am attempting to attach the picture of my new 550 installation.  I plan to do the break in fires next week when my family is away.  It was installed in May and I am now glad to see that it qualifies for the tax credit.


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## Wet1 (Jun 30, 2009)

Crack kills...


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