# Thoughts on echo chainsaw



## Smock2015 (Nov 21, 2016)

So I've been looking for a new saw and am leaning towards a echo cs-490-20. 50.2 cc motor with 20" bar. Anyone have any experience with echo or thoughts about them would be very helpful


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## CheapBassTurd (Nov 22, 2016)

Check
"The Gear" section.


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## ChemicalWaste (Nov 22, 2016)

I have a cs400 it's been a reliable little saw. Improper maintenance and crappy gas still haven't stopped it. I also have a backpack leaf blower with the same thing. I'm usually good about maintenance, but for some reason on these two engines I want do good in the beginning. After 6 years with the saw and 4 years with the blower I still like them both. My only issue with either us the blower has a fuel line that wiggles out of the tank and leaks on my back some times. Pretty annoying smelling like 2 stroke.

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## pma1123 (Nov 22, 2016)

My Echo always starts better than my Stihl.  I say go for it.


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## ChemicalWaste (Nov 22, 2016)

pma1123 said:


> My Echo always starts better than my Stihl.  I say go for it.


There's that, too. I don't own a Stihl, but my dad, step dad and the property owner where I cut wood all have Stihl saws. I can have that echo cutting before they get their saws started.

On the dealer argument that usually series, I have an echo dealer closer than a Stihl dealer, but regardless, if I have to have a saw that I need a dealer nearby all the time, why do I want that saw? I haven't needed the dealer yet for the echo or makita stuff I have. Let it rip.


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## sportbikerider78 (Nov 22, 2016)

I work the hell out of my Echo cs450.  It is a good saw.  

People love to talk about dealer support, but that only matters if they break!  Anyone should be able to figure out how to maintain their saw.  Super easy.


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## Smock2015 (Nov 22, 2016)

Ok so now it's between the cs490-20 50.2cc for $349 or the cs590-20aa 59.8 cc $399 is the price difference worth the motor size difference


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## ChemicalWaste (Nov 22, 2016)

Depends on what you need it for. If you're cutting a lot of big stuff, the 590. If you'll be doing plenty of limbing and not much feeling, get the smaller saw. You will appreciate the lighter weight when climbing through limbs and whatever else, lower fuel usage, less noise, and easier to handle. I don't bean easier to keep ahold of if it kicks back, I mean in the small stuff, it's easier to wield around. They all have their place. I have a 64cc saw and a 40cc saw. I'm going to get a top handle saw because it will be so nice to use on small stuff. I also want a 70cc-80cc saw for bigger stuff. It's all about the right tool for the job.

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## Smock2015 (Nov 22, 2016)

I had to use my FIL husqvarna 455 rancher on the last one I did... I'm always looking for big wood but alot of what I cut is under 20" but most of what I cut I have to fell first..


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## Smock2015 (Nov 22, 2016)

I guess I just want to make sure I have enough saw for whatever comes my way but maybe the 490 will be plenty with the 20" bar


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## jatoxico (Nov 22, 2016)

Echo makes a good product at a good price. Buy for what you need the majority of the time. My opinion for what it's worth is; if you're thinking to have just one saw and unless you're cutting 10 cords a year, I'd get the 490. If you think you might go with a 2 saw plan get the larger and pick up a 40cc for limbing etc.


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## Smock2015 (Nov 22, 2016)

I think I'm gonna go with the 490! I think it'll be able to handle what I need it too and if I come across something too big I guess I'll have to buy a bigger saw at that point... Thanks for all the thoughts and opinions. Very much appreciated


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## woodhog73 (Nov 22, 2016)

Don't know much about echo. But I do know a few things about saws.

If you plan on running a 20 inch bar and actually cutting hard wood that buries the entire 20 inches to the tip then the 50cc saw will disappoint you long term. For an extra $50 bucks the 60cc saw is a better choice.

I'm not getting into things light weight, resale, durability, etc. all I'm saying is 50cc saws regardless of the make, while can pull a 20 inch bar if pressed, they work hard when that much bar is buried in a hard dense species of wood. Perhaps once in awhile I can see, but if your taking down a large oak that big, and have to buck the entire tree, and if you do that on a regular basis, well it won't be long before your wanting a bigger saw. Spend the extra $50 now you probably won't regret it. The 60cc saw will be less taxed and is the better choice for burying a 20 inch bar in hardwood.


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## Smock2015 (Nov 22, 2016)

That makes very good sense... when. I was using my FIL saw it has 20" bar and is 55cc n it had to work hard to get thru a big oak once the whole bar was buried


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## Jon1270 (Nov 22, 2016)

woodhog73 said:


> If you plan on running a 20 inch bar and actually cutting hard wood that buries the entire 20 inches to the tip then the 50cc saw will disappoint you long term.



Agreed; 50cc is 16" - 18" territory unless you're a glutton for punishment.


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## ChemicalWaste (Nov 22, 2016)

Agreed. I'm planning on putting a 14 or 16 on the 40cc saw instead of the 18 that is p on there. I only cut larger stuff with the echo when I've flooded the Makita and don't feel like fixing it, or gotten it pinched like an idiot. After the first cut, I clear the flood. It's just too much bar and thus too much material for the engine to reasonably handle.

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## jetsam (Nov 22, 2016)

Many people (myself included) agree that the best way to go is to have a small saw and a large saw. If you don't use the saw much, one medium saw is fine; if you put a lot of hours in, it's really nice to have a big one and a small one.


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## bfast250 (Nov 23, 2016)

If you don't mind purchasing from the internet checkout Zoro. They run some 20% and 30% off coupons a few times a year that apply to both the 590 and 490. You can be in one for significantly less than the $ mentioned in this thread.


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## Smock2015 (Nov 23, 2016)

Thank you for all the opinions and advice. I bit the bullet and am now a new owner of the echo cs590


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## Smock2015 (Nov 23, 2016)

Can someone tell me what kind of chain this is or what kind I should buy for best cutting thanks again


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## woodhog73 (Nov 23, 2016)

Smock2015 said:


> Can someone tell me what kind of chain this is or what kind I should buy for best cutting thanks again



Everything you need for chain type is on the bar in the picture you posted.

3/8 pitch
70 DL ( drive links)
.050 gauge

These numbers are universal from chain brand to chain brand. Any 3/8 .050 70 link chain will work.

Looks like that new echo is fitted with low kick back safety chain, which will not be the fastest cutting.

For 3/8 chain, I'd put on a loop of Stihl RS or Oregon LGX. Both will be great cutting chain. Those numbers will be on the box.


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## Smock2015 (Nov 23, 2016)

Awesome thank-you..


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## sportbikerider78 (Nov 23, 2016)

Great saw.  My cousin has the same one...much faster than mine.


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## jetsam (Nov 23, 2016)

If you find you need more power, opening up the muffler and retuning the carb is famously effective on Echos. (Also against the rules, but the chainsaw police haven't run me down yet!)


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## jatoxico (Nov 23, 2016)

I think you'll be real happy congrats. X2 on carb adjust even if you don't want to open up the muffler.


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## xman23 (Nov 23, 2016)

Good to read about Echo from the Echo users. We get so much Stilh info here.  know they sell in HD. Are there HD models and higher quality pro models?


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## srchar (Nov 23, 2016)

I was deciding between the same two saws last year.  I ended up getting the CS-490 18" and I love it.  The 490 is very light which was a big deal for me.  I stole mine for $280 at my dealer's customer appreciation sale.  Can't beat the 5 year warranty either. Go Echo!  And please support your local dealers before the big box, the saw is the same. 


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## ChemicalWaste (Nov 23, 2016)

xman23 said:


> Good to read about Echo from the Echo users. We get so much Stilh info here.  know they sell in HD. Are there HD models and higher quality pro models?


Yeah, there are pro saws as well. I bought consumer model years ago at HD, and I bought my Makita there as well. I'm thinking that I'm going to get another Makita there and turn it into the 80cc saw that I want. Those things are a bargain at$250. Add on the Bailey's big bore kit and have almost a brand new 80cc saw for $400.

I love when I pull the orange saw and the green-blue saw out and guys all what kind of saw they are like I'm an idiot because it's not white and orange. At the end of the day, nothing else is said because they hold their own. Echo is like the Honda of chainsaws. Keep oil and gas in it and it'll run. I don't care what color your saw is, though, if it's not tuned up and your chain is dull, it won't run with a pinch of crap.


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## Smock2015 (Nov 23, 2016)

I hate to sound stupid but could someone explain how to go about the muffler mod and retuning the carb. I've had a few saws but never did anything like that to them just ran them and assumed that's what I got. Then I found this site. I would like to get as much out of it as I can! Thanks for any and all advice


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## jatoxico (Nov 23, 2016)

I re-tuned my saw (no muffler mod) and basically you want to richin up the high speed circuit until it "4 strokes" but cleans up in the cut. Mostly it seems new saws are shipped lean to meet emissions and benefit from tuning. If you mod the muffler (remove restricting material) you _have to_ turn out the high speed side or the over lean condition can damage the saw.

I'm no expert, just have basic small engine skill. I got some help here and checked out some youtube videos. A video will help a lot since it takes time to explain but the process itself is pretty easy. You may need a tool or have cut some notches in the mixture screws.


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## bfast250 (Nov 23, 2016)

Here are two good videos:



Turning the jet left adds fuel aka "fat" or "rich". Right is less fuel aka "lean". You are primarily concerned with the H jet. Hearing/picking up on the 4-stroke is the hardest part. Good luck!


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## woodhog73 (Nov 24, 2016)

ChemicalWaste said:


> I love when I pull the orange saw and the green-blue saw out and guys all what kind of saw they are like I'm an idiot because it's not white and orange.



I agree. I've got 3 Stihls, and also own Jonsereds and Huskys. I'm not brand loyal.

Looks like the Stihl marketing machine and their superior dealer network is working because many people have blindfolds on when it comes to chainsaws. If it ain't white and orange it must be low level.

Funny. I'm not into chainsaw racing. But I've got a Jonsered 2252 ( same as a Husky 545/550 orange versions) which was ported, fitted with a high compression piston, and muffler modded. I have on a few occasions been asked by a couple buddies of mine how my little saw cuts so darn fast, faster than a couple of well run but well maintained 036 Stihls they own.  And it's red so It must be low level compared to their white and orange saw. It's always good fun  

Again not a Stihl hater here I've got 3 stihl saws including a new 661 so I like them. I just don't buy into their marketing crap


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## ChemicalWaste (Nov 24, 2016)

woodhog73 said:


> I agree. I've got 3 Stihls, and also own Jonsereds and Huskys. I'm not brand loyal.
> 
> Looks like the Stihl marketing machine and their superior dealer network is working because many people have blindfolds on when it comes to chainsaws. If it ain't white and orange it must be low level.
> 
> ...


I feel the same way, really. I don't hate Stihl saws, but I don't own any right now. I also don't own any Husqvarna or jonsered saws, but I've got nothing against them. I just find it funny, no matter what, some folks think that because you made a different decision than they did, you're terrible at making decisions in their eyes, and problem should absolve yourself of your right to vote. That's how bad of a saw/truck/refrigerator/pair of jeans you bought.


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## jetsam (Nov 25, 2016)

Echo uses "limiter caps" so you can't get to the carb adjustment screws. Imagine a hollow cylinder with one side open (like a drinking glass), and a small  vertical plastic tab on the outside of the open end.

What you can do (outside of buying special dealer tools) is very carefully drive a long screw into that cap. Just put it in enough that the thread bites, and find the rotation that allows you to pull the cap off. Repeat for the other cap. Shave those tabs off the side with a knife so that they're both smooth cylinders. Tune the carb like any other carb and replace the caps. They will be easy to remove next time because you cut the tabs off.

When I tune my echo I usually use a tachometer, which a lot of people sneer at, but I think I am a little more consistent going that way than playing it by ear.

I make sure the air filter and exhaust are clean, gas up the saw, and let it warm up a few minutes at idle.

Check your saw's specs/manual for proper idle speed and max RPM.  Once the saw is warm, set the idle speed to whatever the book says (if you're too lazy to check the book, set it to where it's running fine, lower it until it starts to lub, then bump it up a little from there.)


Now turn the low speed screw rich (ccw for my saws) until it starts to run a little rough. Reverse direction,  counting the turns, until it runs well and then rough again. Reverse direction again. And put it in the middle, where it runs the best, maybe a little towards the rich side.

Now go set the idle speed again, same as the first time.

Now hold down the throttle to wide open and adjust the high speed screw. I screw it out (that's rich on both my saws) until it runs a little rough, then turn it lean through max RPM until it slows down a little, and then back it off rich again until it makes that warbly 4-cycle noise. If I'm not in the woods, I use the tachometer to fine tune RPM from there; if I am in the woods I'm done and it works fine. . If in doubt, leave this screw a little rich. The leaner you run the hotter the saw runs and the less lube it gets.  Another way to say this is that you want to find the spot where it goes from nice and smooth to rough from being too rich, and put it right on the edge towards the rich side.

Now let it idle again, and see how it goes from idle to full speed. If it doesn't idle smoothly or it stumbles when accelerated, adjust the idle and  low speed screws again as above.

Aaand set your idle screw one last time, and you're done forever, or until your saw's environmental temperature, altitude, air filter, or gas changes, or the carb somehow experiences vibrations, whichever comes first.

Edit: Oh, and 'muffler mod' is simpler but you should think about it before jumping in. You're removing the pollution controls in most cases, making the saw louder in all cases, you are voiding any warranty you might have had, and probably breaking some law somewhere. (Transporting dentures across state lines is a federal offense in the US, so I'm sure that tweaking chainsaws probably is too.)

The idea is that the muffler has lots of air restrictions for the catalytic converter and noise control baffles, which are all optional for people who own drills and files.  You are going to give the air a more convenient path to get through the muffler can- maybe a little more convenient, maybe a lot. The more you open it up, the louder the saw is going to be and the more potential gains you'll see. I suggest picking a method that allows you to keep the stock spark arrestor.

Maybe you want to leave the cat but drill out the noise baffles, or maybe you want to punch a big hole straight through, or maybe you want to cut the whole can in half and empty it out and weld it together again. 

Whatever you do, you'll need to tune the carb when you're done.


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## rowerwet (Nov 26, 2016)

I love my 590, I cut over 6 cords of hardwood a year, and it has been my go to saw since I got it. Before that I had a husky 460, which I still own, but the two are no where near equal. 
The 460 is a home owner grade saw, built with much more plastic. The 590 is a pro grade saw for a homeowner grade price.
The 460 did the job, but was never a real powerhouse, I'm amazed to see them in stores being sold with a 24" bar, I find the power to be just enough to pull a 20" bar in oak or maple, but without any extra power.
The 590 with a 20" bar blows through big oak so fast I like to call it my laser beam. 
I have the timberline sharpener, and it keeps a razor edge on my chains, the 590 just keeps throwing big chips non stop, the 460 just doesn' have the speed in the cut.
I got the 490 for my small saw, the lighter weight is nice, I actually find the 490 can do all that the 590 can, just not quite as fast.


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## Smock2015 (Nov 29, 2016)

Ok maybe a dumb question but..  when I pull the limiter caps off and shave the little tabs do I need to put  back together and tune then take apart and put caps back on or can it be tuned with caps on after the tabs have been shaved


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## Jon1270 (Nov 29, 2016)

Smock2015 said:


> Ok maybe a dumb question but..  when I pull the limiter caps off and shave the little tabs do I need to put  back together and tune then take apart and put caps back on or can it be tuned with caps on after the tabs have been shaved



The latter.Removing the tabs permanently defeats the limits.


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## Smock2015 (Nov 29, 2016)

Ok so this is how the manual says to tune the carb does this make since? I tried bringing the H screw out all the way to stop ccw but then it wouldn't even run on the high side at all


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## Jon1270 (Nov 29, 2016)

Smock2015 said:


> but then it wouldn't even run on the high side at all




Clarification, please?  What do you mean by 'it wouldn't run on the high side?'


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## jetsam (Nov 29, 2016)

Put the modified limiters back on when you're done to keep crud out of the adjustment screws.

You will have to pull them again next time, but it'll be real easy because you cut the tabs off.

Don't turn the adjustment screws all the way in either direction unless the saw doesn't run and you just want to find out where the limits are.

The Echo manual says to turn it all the way because they assume that you can only turn the screws a quarter turn or so, due to the limiter caps. If you actually need to tune the carb, you're supposed to take it to a dealer (who will pull the limiter caps and tune it as above).


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## jetsam (Nov 29, 2016)

Jon1270 said:


> Clarification, please?  What do you mean by 'it wouldn't run on the high side?'



He adjusted the H screw out to the stop on the rich side due to a misunderstanding with the Echo manual.

Something is seriously wrong if the saw runs at that point. 

No harm done, though.


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## Smock2015 (Nov 30, 2016)

Ok but the point where it did run is only about 1/2 turn ccw from the cw stop. So basically if you screw it all the way in then say unscrew it 2turns(ccw) it runs rough then turn it cw to where it cleans up and it's only half turn out. Wouldn't that be too lean?


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## Smock2015 (Nov 30, 2016)

Maybe I'm misunderstanding something


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## jatoxico (Nov 30, 2016)

First realize that adjustment may only be 1/8 or 1/4 turn so small changes can be the difference. The low side should be open enough to allow the saw to start, idle and transition crisply to WOT.

The high side only adjusts the saw at WOT and is best adjusted under load IMO. So get it started and running with nominal adjust of 2 turns out on H side. Open until saw runs rough (4 strokes) at WOT then put the saw in some wood and see if runs cleanly. If it still rough turn the high side down a bit. Rinse and repeat. Takes a little playing especially to hear the burble but go ahead and play you won't hurt anything.

One note, don't crank down hard (close) the screws or it could damage the seats. Be gentle,


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## Smock2015 (Nov 30, 2016)

WOT?


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## Jon1270 (Nov 30, 2016)

Smock2015 said:


> WOT?



Wide-open throttle.


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## Jon1270 (Nov 30, 2016)

Smock2015 said:


> Ok but the point where it did run is only about 1/2 turn ccw from the cw stop. So basically if you screw it all the way in then say unscrew it 2turns(ccw) it runs rough then turn it cw to where it cleans up and it's only half turn out. Wouldn't that be too lean?



You're talking apples and oranges here, which is causing confusion. Maybe the answer to this is upthread somewhere, but have you or have you not defeated/removed the limiters?  Are you able to turn the H screw through multiple rotations, or only half a turn?


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## Jon1270 (Nov 30, 2016)

jetsam said:


> He adjusted the H screw out to the stop on the rich side due to a misunderstanding with the Echo manual.
> 
> Something is seriously wrong if the saw runs at that point.



If the limiters are still in place then it should run even when it's up against the rich limit; as noted, the range within the limiters is quite small, and never allows it to get very rich.

If the limiters are gone, then there is no stop on the rich side.


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## ChemicalWaste (Nov 30, 2016)

The bad part is, you can adjust the carb on a new saw just fine with the limiter caps in place. If you're not entirely familiar with everything, you're better off doing only what the manual says and not what's read on internet forums. This is how some companies (care, trucks, saws) get a bad rap. 

Some dude cranks up the boost on their turbo and thinks the it's the manufacturers fault for their head gasket blowing all to hell. Or maybe it doesn't, and it worked for a while, and a bunch of other folks did the same thing to their trucks. After 5 years of running more power than it was designed for, the engine is trashed, and the transmission is in the fritz, so Fords are garbage.

I personally am not modifying any of my saws. I did it to my car, and it was light modifications, but I had to drop a ton of money into a new clutch because it wasn't designed for that.

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## Smock2015 (Nov 30, 2016)

Jon1270 I have removed the limiters and can turn the H screw thru multiple rotations.


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## Smock2015 (Nov 30, 2016)

And I realized there was no "stop" I screwed it out about 3.5-4 turns ccw then started working it back in cw from there. I did what was stated put it in wood and turned it cw till it cleaned up but after I checked it and it was only out about a half turn from all the way in. I don't know maybe I'm over thinking something it runs good and seems to be cutting good. I was just trying to get the most out of it I can and learn along the way. I don't feel I did any harm at this point.. but the more I can learn and the better I can get it to run and maybe not run as hot(to lean) and last longer because if it is fine by me. Sorry for any confusion and thanks for all the help


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## Jon1270 (Nov 30, 2016)

Smock2015 said:


> And I realized there was no "stop" I screwed it out about 3.5-4 turns ccw then started working it back in cw from there. I did what was stated put it in wood and turned it cw till it cleaned up but after I checked it and it was only out about a half turn from all the way in. I don't know maybe I'm over thinking something it runs good and seems to be cutting good. I was just trying to get the most out of it I can and learn along the way. I don't feel I did any harm at this point.. but the more I can learn and the better I can get it to run and maybe not run as hot(to lean) and last longer because if it is fine by me. Sorry for any confusion and thanks for all the help



As long as it still four-strokes / sounds rougher when you're revving it *out* of the wood, i.e. when running WOT without a load, then you're probably fine.  You don't want it to run "clean" when it's not under load, and you also don't want it to clean up under minimal load, i.e. when you're cutting very small stuff.  The four-stroking should only go away when you're making a fairly heavy cut.


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## jatoxico (Nov 30, 2016)

I don't want to keep adding new thoughts, it will just get confusing if everyone is talking at once.

Suggest now that you have the limiters off and are starting to "get it" that you watch and re-watch the videos and read and re-read the info you have and it will all make more and more sense.

One other note is always count your turns on the screws. So you might want to turn the H side in from your current setting while counting until it stops (gently). Then return it to the setting. I would guess if you're in the ballpark it will be 2-2.5 turns out or so.


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## Timberwolf530 (Nov 30, 2016)

Smock2015 said:


> And I realized there was no "stop" I screwed it out about 3.5-4 turns ccw then started working it back in cw from there. I did what was stated put it in wood and turned it cw till it cleaned up but after I checked it and it was only out about a half turn from all the way in. I don't know maybe I'm over thinking something it runs good and seems to be cutting good. I was just trying to get the most out of it I can and learn along the way. I don't feel I did any harm at this point.. but the more I can learn and the better I can get it to run and maybe not run as hot(to lean) and last longer because if it is fine by me. Sorry for any confusion and thanks for all the help


I don't want to rain on this parade, but if I were you, I would not use that saw again until I took it to a dealer and had them tune it for me.  No offense, but you obviously don't know what you're doing with tuning a saw.  Since two cycle engines rely on the oil mixed into the gas to lubricate them properly, if you're not getting enough gas, you're not getting enough oil, and bad things happen if that's the case.  Modding is great if you know what you're doing......and you're willing to void your warranty, which you've already done by altering your caps.  I  mod all my saws, BUT I run 10 -12 tanks through them first to make sure there are no defects.  If there is a defect, and I've modded it, I'm screwed.  Just have a dealer to get it running right, and learn how to use it, then start modding it.  The CS590 is a nice saw, and you'll be happy with it as it is.  If you get the mod bug AFTER you know how to tune properly, then have at it.  If you just have to learn right now, buy an old junk saw and practice on that.  If you screw it up, who cares.


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## Jon1270 (Nov 30, 2016)

Timberwolf530 said:


> Since two cycle engines rely on the oil mixed into the gas to lubricate them properly, if you're not getting enough gas, you're not getting enough oil, and bad things happen if that's the case.



Tuning a saw too lean causes problems because it drives combustion temps high enough to melt the piston, not because of lack of lubrication.


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## Timberwolf530 (Nov 30, 2016)

Jon1270 said:


> Tuning a saw too lean causes problems because it drives combustion temps high enough to melt the piston, not because of lack of lubrication.


I stand corrected, though I've always heard it's both.  The bottom line is that a novice user is messing with something he's not familiar with, and there's a good chance he's going to ruin it if he's not careful.  It's great to be enthusiastic about something new, until you wreck it and find out you voided your warranty in the process.


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## Smock2015 (Nov 30, 2016)

When I took the limiters out I counted turn in to stop so I could and did put it back to where it was from factory


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## jatoxico (Nov 30, 2016)

Personally I'm comfortable doing it but what Timberwolf said is a good thing to keep in mind. If I find that any adjustment is grossly different than what the manual says I'm real careful until I'm sure. Two turns out as a starting point should be pretty safe. After running for a bit and making a cut or two check the plug for color. Tan=good, white =bad.


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## Smock2015 (Nov 30, 2016)

So would white mean to lean or to rich?


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## sportbikerider78 (Nov 30, 2016)

Lean...quite lean.

You want it dry...a little brown ok.  Any deposits, short term is an issue.

Better to run slightly rich than to run slightly lean.  Plugs are cheap and it takes a while to fould them.  Even when I run mine a little rich, I get a year (20 tanks of fuel) to foul a plug. .


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## jatoxico (Nov 30, 2016)

^^^ Zactly. White is too lean and if you have any doubt you're better to run a bit rich. Even more so while breaking in a new saw.

Looking at the plug is a good confirmation of what your ear and feel in the cut is telling you. I'm sure more better tech's don't need to but I like to check the plug as I go along since I'm not that expert.


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## Smock2015 (Nov 30, 2016)

Thanks for all the replies and help.. the wealth of knowledge here is incredible.


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## sportbikerider78 (Dec 1, 2016)

Worst case you blow it up and you're out $100.  Then you learn how to rebuild the engine.  Another valuable skill.


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## rowerwet (Dec 1, 2016)

There are other forums where people have much more experience doing this, and do it to every echo they get. 
Just saying


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## woodhog73 (Dec 1, 2016)

A too lean condition can and will cause damage however it's probably going to take a fairly sustained use at a relatively lean condition to do so.

If your saw is running so lean that it will cause damage within a quick time frame, your going to notice it immediately. The saw will have no power in the cut. It will bog under heavy load and it should be obvious something's wrong within minutes. A slightly lean condition, from poor tuning or perhaps a small air leak, will take a fair bit of time to cause damage. Your plug condition should give you some good direction.

Back when I rode 2 stroke dirt bikes we would keep jet kits with fatter or leaner carb jets for tuning in the tool box. That's how we tuned by changing the jet. Motocross races were sometimes 20 minutes. Plenty of times it would seem a 2 stroke motocrosser ( worth way more than a saw ) was running way too lean, but I always kept riding / racing for the next 20 minutes. Never had a motor blow up from being too lean. But it can happen but you would have to ignore some fairly obvious warning signs ( no power, bogging under heavy load, etc )

My point is don't worry about it. Just get it tuned correctly. If your not sure how to tune the saw seek help and ask them to show you how so next time you can do it yourself. If it's severely lean that it's gonna cause immediate damage you will know as soon as you put the saw to wood. It will have very little power.

Just my 2 cents and gut instincts.


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## Smock2015 (Dec 1, 2016)

Thanks for all the information...


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## Smock2015 (Dec 1, 2016)

I think with all the information I've gathered I can comfortably tune my saw. I feel I can find the line between too lean and too rich and just a little more to the rich side.. and if I feel at any point that it isn't right I can accept defeat and will take it to be done before it gets to a point of destruction. Thanks again


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## cre73 (Dec 5, 2016)

Don't want to rain on the parade but I would of waited on any mods. I believe your warranty is now void if you would happen to have a catastrophic failure. I held off 3 years before I messed with my 341.


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## rowerwet (Nov 16, 2018)

The muffler mod for a 490 is nothing,  remove two screws that hold the spark screen,  under the screen is a plate with a tiny tube in it. Remove the plate, reinstall the screen and deflector.

Cut the limiters  and retune

https://store.chainsawr.com/blogs/tuning-and-repairs/1126042-adjustment-and-tuning-of-a-chainsaw-carburetor 

I love my modded 490, I use it for the small stuff, and sometimes to finish up if my 590 runs out of gas or needs to be sharpened for the last few cuts.


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## 32x20 (Nov 16, 2018)

rowerwet said:


> The muffler mod for a 490 is nothing,  remove two screws that hold the spark screen,  under the screen is a plate with a tiny tube in it. Remove the plate, reinstall the screen and deflector.
> 
> Cut the limiters  and retune
> 
> ...



Agreed.  It's like they intended for you to muff mod  it.  The external deflector/baffle is even perforated where you can dremel it.


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## jetsam (Nov 16, 2018)

My little 30cc Echo limbing saw LOVED that muffler mod.  It was a noticeable difference.


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