# Log Load On The Way



## Typ0 (Jul 2, 2015)

I just got word my log load will be here in the morning.  I guess it's time to get a chain saw.  Is it dangerous?


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## claydogg84 (Jul 2, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> I just got word my log load will be here in the morning.  I guess it's time to get a chain saw.  Is it dangerous?



Is what dangerous? Chainsaws in general? Yes, they are extremely dangerous if not used with caution.


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## johneh (Jul 2, 2015)

Well you have your work cut out for you now .
Just got to watch for rolling logs
How do you plan to split it ?
I have been 2 weeks bucken and splitting (Hydro) a load
of sugar maple and red oak . Now I have to stack it all .
Defiantly not the fun part. But wood for 2018-19 and part
of 20 now in place  love to be well ahead
Have Fun


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## Typ0 (Jul 2, 2015)

well joheh I have no idea really.  This is a learning experience for me.  The wood is going to come in I'm going to buy a chainsaw and see what I can do.  I have an axe in the garage i split with all winter but those were already split.  So I'm pretty much going to process it by hand.  The guy told me I should get 20 face cords out of one of his loads.  No idea what I'm in for really ...


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## Typ0 (Jul 2, 2015)

I don't have enough wood for this season right now either.  But I do have close to 2 cords I think which is a lot better than where I was last year.  This wood coming is my attempt to streamline getting ahead a couple years.  I'm going to be looking at a big pile of wood that isn't even two years worth.  I have a couple trees to cut down here too and I will start scrounging.  OK who am I kidding I have to process the wood I have before I scrounge haha.


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## sportbikerider78 (Jul 3, 2015)

Since you are a chainsaw newbie...but tacking a big job, go to a local dealer and let them recommend something.  Do not just buy the biggest one at Home Depot.


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## Typ0 (Jul 3, 2015)

I was looking at a 20" one at home depot.  My biggest concern is I don't want to be frustrated if the bar is too short...I am not going to spring for a larger bar but it makes sense they actually would be safer to use because you spend less time with the bar buried in the log.  I don't know what I'm doing though!  I don't know what the logs look like I will be cutting either.


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## sportbikerider78 (Jul 3, 2015)

Have them safely pile the logs no higher than 2 tall.  You don't want to be learning how to cut and then die under a log shifting weight.

I'd say you'd want at least a 20" bar.


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## Typ0 (Jul 3, 2015)

Well I'm going to be very careful about that stuff...I hope I can move one of these logs by myself somehow.  I will get it in a good place to cut ... I don't see me standing on top of wood piles cutting with the chainsaw until I know what I'm doing ... and then the trouble will start!


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## BrotherBart (Jul 3, 2015)

I haven't seen a mention of chainsaw chaps? 36 stitches in my left leg says ya need chaps.


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## Hogwildz (Jul 3, 2015)

Have him stack it low, have him lay several sleepers underneath to keep the stacks off the ground. An 18" bar will be plenty.

Oh yeah, chaps, gloves, safety glasses or face shield if you would rather.
I'd wait till fall to cut & split, but that is up to you.


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## Typ0 (Jul 3, 2015)

Why do you suggest waiting until fall?


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## Applesister (Jul 3, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> Why do you suggest waiting until fall?


I think it has to do with sweating.


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## BrotherBart (Jul 3, 2015)

Applesister said:


> I think it has to do with sweating.



For sure. 30 years ago when I moved here from Texas I was splitting by hand in July and the neighbors thought I was nuts. Over the years I have acclimated, and gotten old, and it is only in Spring or Fall these days.


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## SawdustSA (Jul 3, 2015)

I would really recommend you get someone to work with you for a day or a few hours to give you some guidance.  I would hate to hurt myself or the new chainsaw on the 1st job.  You need a basic understanding of how to safely operate these tools.  Safest/fastest way is with an experienced person.

ENJOY!


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## velvetfoot (Jul 3, 2015)

You don't want to be standing on the pile.  Get a peavy, or cant hook, or whatever they call it, and go to the end of the pile so you're out of the way, hook onto a log and roll it down.  The log doesn't necessarily have to be on the ground, and if there are sleepers it won't be, but your feet should be.


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## Typ0 (Jul 3, 2015)

darn truck sunk right into my lawn but she's here!


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## sequoia (Jul 3, 2015)

What did that cost?


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## velvetfoot (Jul 3, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> darn truck sunk right into my lawn but she's here!


You're lucky the outriggers for the grapple weren't on the driveway!


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## Typ0 (Jul 3, 2015)

sequoia said:


> What did that cost?



$650 ... but he gave me $50 back for the grass damage.


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## Typ0 (Jul 3, 2015)

mostly ash he said...which is good considering I need more wood this year.  Better get to work!


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## velvetfoot (Jul 3, 2015)

My last load was mostly ash.  It split easy (with hydraulic splitter).  It's the stack in front.


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## Longstreet (Jul 3, 2015)

You may be the first person in America to order a log load without owning a chainsaw.  Keep us updated.


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## Bigg_Redd (Jul 3, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> Is it dangerous?



Yes, it is.  But with a log load on the way it's also a little late to ponder that question.


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## notshubby (Jul 3, 2015)

where abouts in cny? Oswego county here. and 20 inch bar is fine remember that will get you through a 40 inch diameter and I guarantee nothing on that truck is that big.


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## Typ0 (Jul 3, 2015)

Longstreet said:


> You may be the first person in America to order a log load without owning a chainsaw.  Keep us updated.



That's too funny!  I kinda doubt it.  I am learning about all this and not afraid to dive in.  I did have plans to have a friend here to help but he got injured (not using a chain saw).  I will get someone here to learn me.

I did stop at Lowe's and held a 42cc 18" Poulin Pro and a 50cc 20" Poulin Pro.  I must say the weight difference was much greater than i thought it would be!  Then I asked myself which saw would be better the lighter saw or the heavier one???


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## Typ0 (Jul 3, 2015)

notshubby said:


> where abouts in cny? Oswego county here. and 20 inch bar is fine remember that will get you through a 40 inch diameter and I guarantee nothing on that truck is that big.



I was just in Oswego!  I live in Wayne County though.....


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## Typ0 (Jul 3, 2015)

notshubby said:


> where abouts in cny? Oswego county here. and 20 inch bar is fine remember that will get you through a 40 inch diameter and I guarantee nothing on that truck is that big.



There didn't seem to be anything too large on the truck so there should be ample opportunity for me to start small and work my way up.  The biggest thing I'm trying to get my head around right now is how am I going to move these logs?  They are much heavier than I anticipated...and then there is the issue of moving a frigging log not knowing it's got shitloads of pressure on it and is holding up a pile!


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## notshubby (Jul 3, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> That's too funny!  I kinda doubt it.  I am learning about all this and not afraid to dive in.  I did have plans to have a friend here to help but he got injured (not using a chain saw).  I will get someone here to learn me.
> 
> I did stop at Lowe's and held a 42cc 18" Poulin Pro and a 50cc 20" Poulin Pro.  I must say the weight difference was much greater than i thought it would be!  Then I asked myself which saw would be better the lighter saw or the heavier one???


 the heavier one.


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## notshubby (Jul 3, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> There didn't seem to be anything too large on the truck so there should be ample opportunity for me to start small and work my way up.  The biggest thing I'm trying to get my head around right now is how am I going to move these logs?  They are much heavier than I anticipated...and then there is the issue of moving a frigging log not knowing it's got shitloads of pressure on it and is holding up a pile!


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## Typ0 (Jul 3, 2015)

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blue-Max...-8902/202555248?N=5yc1vZbxam#customer_reviews

That looks like the one I should buy!


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## Typ0 (Jul 3, 2015)

I bought it.  Free shipping I don't even need to go pick it up!  Hope it works LOL


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## bad news (Jul 3, 2015)

Longstreet said:


> You may be the first person in America to order a log load without owning a chainsaw.  Keep us updated.



Ha!  He's at least the second - I've done it.  I was debating between 70cc pro saws at the time though, not so much between the WildThing and the Blue Max.

First post, usually just lurk but that was too funny not to comment.  Hello Hearth.com members.


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## Ashful (Jul 3, 2015)

To each his own, but I'd not be tackling that load with a 45 cc saw, nor very interested in trying to spin a 20" loop of chain with one!  That displacement is fine for a 14" or 16" bar in ash, no more.

I'd return that saw, and start shopping for a used MS-361 or 036 to run a 20" bar, if you didn't want to drop the coin for a new 60 cc saw.  I'd consider a 50cc saw the bare minimum for tackling a log load, and then it'd be wearing an 18" bar, not 20".


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## Typ0 (Jul 3, 2015)

Ashful said:


> To each his own, but I'd not be tackling that load with a 45 cc saw, nor very interested in trying to spin a 20" loop of chain with one!  That displacement is fine for a 14" or 16" bar in ash, no more.
> 
> I'd return that saw, and start shopping for a used MS-361 or 036 to run a 20" bar, if you didn't want to drop the coin for a new 60 cc saw.  I'd consider a 50cc saw the bare minimum for tackling a log load, and then it'd be wearing an 18" bar, not 20".



well I look at it this way...I'm likely to not buy the saw I want right now and don't have enough knowledge/skill/experience to really know.  So I got the kit that offered some experience and all I have to lose is $149.  I can probably sell it on Craigslist for $100 if it works.  Once I get some knowledge built up I'll be in a better position to listen to what you are trying to tell me


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## Hogwildz (Jul 3, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> Why do you suggest waiting until fall?


Between the insect biting the shat out of you, bees nests, ticks, and sweating your nuts off, you will wish you had waited till cooler weather.
You may not mind all that, I didn't at first, but now I wait till its cooler out. More enjoyable for me, and a little more workout time in the lesser active time of year.


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## Typ0 (Jul 3, 2015)

Hogwildz said:


> Between the insect biting the shat out of you, bees nests, ticks, and sweating your nuts off, you will wish you had waited till cooler weather.
> You may not mind all that, I didn't at first, but now I wait till its cooler out. More enjoyable for me, and a little more workout time in the lesser active time of year.



That does make sense in general.  I'm eager to get this wood stacked though I can always get another load in the fall I need to at least know how much time I'm going to need to process a load.  It's taking up my yard right now!


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## notshubby (Jul 3, 2015)

yeah I said go with the bigger one because I have cut a lot of loads of wood in my day. and I know not everyone out there has the desire to spend what some of us do on saws. my first load or 2  I cut with an ms260. you can cut that whole load with that saw you just bought. but you might be there a while doing it.
  bar size doesn't always equate to saw size either. ive seen some long bars on some pretty doggy saws. my 066 is a big saw (well at least I think its big) and its sported a 20 inch bar most of its life.
  my father brought over his craftsman saw once to help me cut a load when he realized I was cutting 3 to 5 chunks in the time it took him to cut 1 he put his saw down and used my 046. but at the same time I wouldn't hand either of them saws to someone who hasn't run chainsaws before. someone mentioned an 036 earlier and that's a good sized saw but I definetly would not go any bigger for a first saw.
 I guess the best advice I can give you would be to get a pevey and lay out 2 smaller logs so you can roll them off the pile onto them but not onto the ground. if you cannot get 2 of the smaller logs down use a cpl 4x4s. or use a log cant. but keep the saw out of the dirt. most newbies biggest problems come from dulling saw out and not knowing how to sharpen.



.


heres a few vids I looked up real quick showing safe chainsaw cutting.

heres a vid of a method some of us use by cutting up to finish the cut cause the cuts will line up easier however be sure to let the chain stop before pushing bar into the already cut slot because if the tip of the bar catches at speed before its in there that is when kickback will occur. as well as cutting through a log when the tip contacts the log behind it space them out. cut 1 log at a time.


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## notshubby (Jul 3, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blue-Max...-8902/202555248?N=5yc1vZbxam#customer_reviews
> 
> That looks like the one I should buy!


too late now but for the 50 bucks extra I would have went with the 50cc poulan pro. your getting less saw with the other 1 with 2 bars but they aren't much different in size(2 inches).so you wont really change them.


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## Typ0 (Jul 3, 2015)

notshubby said:


> too late now but for the 50 bucks extra I would have went with the 50cc poulan pro.



Thanks for all the input!  I do hear what you and everyone's message is about the saw...I'm just going to be happy to have something to start with that has two bars so I can start small and go slow.


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## Typ0 (Jul 3, 2015)

I watched the videos ... I have seen them before too .  Loved that marking jig thingie the one guy had I'm making this happen so I can get the logs cut for my stove.


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## notshubby (Jul 3, 2015)

my bad I thought it was an 18 and 20 inch bar. either way doesn't matter


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## notshubby (Jul 3, 2015)

remember as well if you don't have a lot to spend on the safety equip you can do without the hard hat since your not felling and safety glasses and foam earplugs will get the job done better than nothing.


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## Typ0 (Jul 3, 2015)

I got chaps, a helmut setup and gloves.


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## Ashful (Jul 3, 2015)

No cant hook?  That's going to be your best tool for moving those logs.  Of all those I've tried, the 60-inch unit from LogRite is my favorite.


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## Typ0 (Jul 3, 2015)

I do have to get one of those.


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## billb3 (Jul 3, 2015)

Applesister said:


> I think it has to do with sweating.



I've lost weight doing that.


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## velvetfoot (Jul 3, 2015)

I'd mention sweating in the chaps too, but then the thread might start to degrade.


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## bfitz3 (Jul 3, 2015)

It seems like this is a bit late, but I sprung for the ms261. It felt like a lots at the time, but it's been great! Small enough to handle for long time periods, big enough to handle any log I've come across, and in a head to head battle with a friend holding a 'lesser' Stihl model, I was cutting a solid 50% faster. 

That Odell may not be for you, but I would seriously find the $ to buy the best you can. More money can always be earned. Time can never be recovered. Efficiency=priceless!


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## bfitz3 (Jul 3, 2015)

Also...get a good sharpening tool and learn how to use it well. It's not hard! It's the difference between cutting wood with a hammer and a hit knife in butter!


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## Oldman47 (Jul 3, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> Well I'm going to be very careful about that stuff...I hope I can move one of these logs by myself somehow.  I will get it in a good place to cut ... I don't see me standing on top of wood piles cutting with the chainsaw until I know what I'm doing ... and then the trouble will start!


Get a peavey or a cant hook. You can move an amazing amount using one of those things. Remember safety first even when the saw is shut off. Ending up dead or injured under a shifting log is no better than being injured by the saw. A saw is inherently dangerous. It will go right through your leg in under 2 seconds if it gets away from you. Study your cutting area and what you will need to do to make that next cut safely. Remember to avoid impacting the dirt and to avoid the top of the end of the bar. If you are not sure what you can do next safely, take pictures of your situation and come here for advice. It might be a bit embarrassing but it is better than getting hurt. You can't learn to do better unless you first stay alive.


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## kennyp2339 (Jul 4, 2015)

Typo: first of all, good luck with the log load. Secondly - be careful with those lengths, my only good advice is DO NOT CUT LOGS WHILE STACKED ON THE PILE - there's a ton of weight up there, those logs can shift at a flip of a coin, you don't want to get flattened, what I did with my log loads was  to make a preplan, using a chain I dragged the high pieces off the pile with my truck. Yes it took a few extra minutes, but the benefit defiantly out weighs the risk.


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## paul bunion (Jul 4, 2015)

You'll do fine with whatever saw you get.   I've been using an 029 for over 20 years.  It has gotten through plenty of loads.   Just keep the chain sharp like has been pointed out.  Get some files, touch up the chain with every tank.  Remember that if the chain hits the ground it is instantly dulled.  You cannot let it touch the ground.   Don't discount a 2nd smaller saw with a narrow kerf, it saves on cleanup.   You will be knee deep in chips by the end of the day.   Its a PITA to clean up.  Making a third less isn't a bad thing.

Cutting logs that are clear of the pile is good advice too.   Not having to worry about the tip catching or what will happen if the pile shifts is a good thing. Chock the lead log so it can't roll out at you while cutting if the pile shifts.  A 2x stuck between it and the stringer should do.   Some more 2x pieces are good for chocking the log that you are cutting too.   Get yourself a prybar, it is every bit as useful as a peavey/cant dog.  Some things that it excels at are; getting at the ends and prying out a log without being in the path of where its going to roll, lifting a log over knots and nubs on other logs and moving crooked pieces that don't want to be rolled or that want to flop back when you roll them half way.  

Next time you get a load consider getting it laid out parallel and adjacent to your driveway.   Put the stringers a few feet into your driveway and roll the piece that you are cutting so you are always cutting there.   I think you will know exactly why I suggest cutting in the driveway when you go to clean up the chips and dust and bark from your lawn.  Also have him lay more than 2 stringers, with 2 they become quite useless after you cut off the outside pieces of a log.    It was pointed out that driveway damage is possible from the truck outriggers.  To avoid that damage get some 6x6 pieces and keep them handy.    Have the trucker put them under the outriggers when he unloads.      The guy who drops me logs taught me that trick.    He backed in, saw some 6x6s that I had on the side.   Then used his grapple to pick them up and place them before dropping the outriggers and unloading.   He didn't even touch them with his hands.   The 6x6 pieces also become handy for use as stringers as the logs get shorter.


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## johneh (Jul 4, 2015)

The best advice I ever got doing a log load if its hot is
Do 1hr in the morning before it get hot
Do 1 hour in the evening as it cools down
Always take your time don't rush it !


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## thinkxingu (Jul 5, 2015)

Please, please, please take your time and make good decisions. With that saw, setup, and your lack of experience, this is danger in the making.


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## velvetfoot (Jul 5, 2015)

I can see lack of experience, but the only way to get some is to do it.
Can't see anything wrong with saw and setup.  Not best saw, but it should do the trick.


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## maple1 (Jul 5, 2015)

Don't forget about your feet when it comes to safety gear. I don't do anything with a saw without chainsaw boots on, and cutting a load up might be the most dangerous for your lower body.

That pile doesn't look that high - I would just go at it. Work each end of the pile, from the front left corner looking at it. That puts the blade side of the saw towards the pile. If you CAREFULLY work your way into it from the ends, you should be able to get a sawbuck kind of thing going, and the cut pieces should fall/roll away to the sides. I have cut many piles of long lengths up, of all sizes, and have never used any tool other than the saw or needed to roll logs with a tool. But you need to always be wary of and on the outlook for shifting as you go - if you work from the ends, you should be out of harms way from moving logs.


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## Hogwildz (Jul 5, 2015)

After a few loads, you'll know how you want to attack a pile, and the safety factors involved. Till then, take your time, start on the ends, and roll the cuts out of your way as needed so you have steady ground to work off of. Sucks to be tripping over rounds, especially with a saw in your hands.


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## velvetfoot (Jul 5, 2015)

Hogwildz said:


> Sucks to be tripping over rounds


So true.


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## Bigg_Redd (Jul 5, 2015)

Ashful said:


> To each his own, but I'd not be tackling that load with a 45 cc saw



x2


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## drz1050 (Jul 5, 2015)

It's already been mentioned, but definitely look into getting a cant hook/ peavey for moving those around. 
The log rite has been mentioned, I prefer wooden handles so this is the one I went with. Don't be worried about breaking those handles.. you won't. 
http://www.amazon.com/Columbus-McKinnon-Cant-Hook-Model/dp/B000AP067M


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## velvetfoot (Jul 5, 2015)

That looks like the one I got from the local Ace Hardware store.


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## Typ0 (Jul 5, 2015)

Thanks for the input everyone.  The logger talked to me about working from the sides and working through the pile too.  I'm in no hurry I'll be making cuts cleaning up and keeping things clear for sure.


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## velvetfoot (Jul 5, 2015)

Maybe a couple of wedges in case the saw gets stuck?


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## claydogg84 (Jul 5, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> Thanks for the input everyone.  The logger talked to me about working from the sides and working through the pile too.  I'm in no hurry I'll be making cuts cleaning up and keeping things clear for sure.



I'm not sure if it was mentioned already Typ0, but your new saw is likely to come with a low kickback style chain. Combine that with the low end 45cc saw and you're likely to be cutting on that pile forever. Pick up a more aggressive chain after you get used to the saw, good luck!


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## firefighterjake (Jul 6, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> I just got word my log load will be here in the morning.  I guess it's time to get a chain saw.  Is it dangerous?



Possibly.


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## bad news (Jul 13, 2015)

Curiosity has the better of me...I'd like to hear how this worked out.


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## Typ0 (Jul 13, 2015)

Thank you for asking bad news!   The log load is safely in the yard.  I have been submersed in doing some other work and most of the stuff I need is here.  I have disassembled and assembled the saw but not started it yet.  I need to get some steel toe boots and I'm good to go.  I should be firing this all up soon just got sidetracked on some other things!


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## maple1 (Jul 14, 2015)

I would get chain saw boots, rather than just steel toe ones. MUCH more protection.


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## Typ0 (Jul 26, 2015)

Just fired up the saw for the first time.  It was comfortable.  Chain was working.  I didn't have all the proper safety attire so this run was just getting the engine going and testing if it runs.  It's kinda hot out there right now!


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## Ashful (Jul 27, 2015)

Did some cutting in the heat yesterday.  Photos are of a friend using one of my saws.  He's not much for PPE, at least in that heat.


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## velvetfoot (Jul 27, 2015)

That's a long bar!


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## Ashful (Jul 27, 2015)

36 inch Stihl Rollomatic ES


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## velvetfoot (Jul 27, 2015)

wow!


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## Typ0 (Jul 27, 2015)

my trees aren't that big LOL.  Nice!


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## Ashful (Jul 27, 2015)

I rarely get called for anything smaller than that.  Most people I know with land around here burn wood, so they usually keep all manageable stuff for themselves.  They usually call me when they have something over 40" DBH, which they're just not equipped to process.  Felling and bucking these big'uns is a lot of fun, but moving and splitting them is a very slow PITA.


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## Typ0 (Jul 27, 2015)

You know the .22 hammers you plug anchors into concrete with?  Why can't you just hit it with big enough cartridge to bust it up?  I don't know enough about wood yet but this sounds like an interesting idea for you.


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## Ashful (Jul 27, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> You know the .22 hammers you plug anchors into concrete with?  Why can't you just hit it with big enough cartridge to bust it up?  I don't know enough about wood yet but this sounds like an interesting idea for you.


Sounds like the premise for another episode of mythbusters.


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## Oldman47 (Jul 27, 2015)

Ashful said:


> Sounds like the premise for another episode of mythbusters.


Heck those guys will end up using 1/2 stick of dynamite just to prove that you can use explosives. It doesn't change the fact there is very little chemical energy stored in one of those .22 cartridges.


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## Typ0 (Aug 5, 2015)

I just actually cut wood with a chain saw for the first time.  It's easy!  I have some other things to do today but this log load is going to be rendered into rounds in the next few days I would imagine...then I will start splitting.  I'm excited to get this done and learn some new skills.  Thank you everyone for the input and help.


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## Ashful (Aug 5, 2015)

Just remember, cutting flesh is even easier than wood.  Take care, have fun!


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## kennyp2339 (Aug 5, 2015)

Good luck, the weather up by you is perfect for making rounds with the saw. Just take your time, take breaks, and preplan all of your cuts.


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## kennyp2339 (Aug 5, 2015)

Ashful said:


> Sounds like the premise for another episode of mythbusters.


a hilti wedge?


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## Highbeam (Aug 6, 2015)

So guys, I purposely roll the logs off of the pile onto the ground for cutting. I agree to store the logs on the stringers to keep them clean and dry.

When I cut on the ground I use the mingo marker to mark each cut at exactly 16" and then I run down the log cutting 3/4 or so of the way to the ground. Then roll the log 180 degrees and finish the cut. All on the ground. Seems if you tried cutting logs while on the stringers that the log would pinch your bar. What am I missing?

I'll actually lay several logs on the ground a foot or two apart and get a system down where I cut an immense amount of rounds in a short time.

Yes, I use a peavey to get logs out of the pile. I've rolled 40" douglas fir logs with that dang thing. Amazing tool.


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## kennyp2339 (Aug 6, 2015)

your 40" douglas log is prob lighter than one of our 16" red oak logs. - your lucky


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## velvetfoot (Aug 6, 2015)

You can cut a log on the stringers, not bending over as much as if it was on the ground,  going partially through before it starts binding, and then roll it off and finish it on the ground.
You can cut the ends off too, but then, you might have to move the rounds more, rather than making rounds near where you're going to do stuff next to them.

This project is way behind schedule.


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## Typ0 (Aug 6, 2015)

My whole life is behind schedule!  LOL


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## Ashful (Aug 6, 2015)

kennyp2339 said:


> your 40" douglas log is prob lighter than one of our 16" red oak logs. - your lucky


Not quite.  Assuming Doug Fir at 35 lb/ft3 green, and red oak at 61 lb/ft3 green, a 40" doug fir would weigh the same as a 30" red oak.  That r^2 thing means diameter doesn't need to vary much, for a big change in volume.

Your point is still correct tho... doug fir weighs half as much as oak, per volume.


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## Oldman47 (Aug 7, 2015)

velvetfoot said:


> You can cut a log on the stringers, not bending over as much as if it was on the ground,  going partially through before it starts binding, and then roll it off and finish it on the ground.
> You can cut the ends off too, but then, you might have to move the rounds more, rather than making rounds near where you're going to do stuff next to them.
> 
> This project is way behind schedule.


Another option, to reduce handling, would be to cut 2/3 through then place a felling wedge in the top of the cut and just finish it. No pinching and no manhandling the log either.


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## velvetfoot (Aug 7, 2015)

Oldman47 said:


> Another option, to reduce handling, would be to cut 2/3 through then place a felling wedge in the top of the cut and just finish it. No pinching and no manhandling the log either.


That's more work than rolling it with the Peavey, I would think.  Plus, if it was on the stringers, one end would fall to the ground, I'd imagine, and you';d be cutting at an awkward angle.


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## Ashful (Aug 7, 2015)

Oldman47 said:


> Another option, to reduce handling, would be to cut 2/3 through then place a felling wedge in the top of the cut and just finish it. No pinching and no manhandling the log either.


Sounds like a good idea, in theory, but falls apart in the field.

Roll them off the pile onto the ground, cut 90% thru all the way down the length of the log, roll half over, finish each cut.  It's the way every person who has cut more than a few cords eventually comes around to doing it, learn from their experience.

The only time I wedge to finish is when a log is too big to roll, like this one we cut ten days ago:


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## maple1 (Aug 7, 2015)

Sorta agree with that.

I just go at the pile, and have never used a peavy or the like (never see anything quite that big either). I just try to get things working in from the ends, then you get a sort of sawbuck thing going, and can cut multiple logs at once. Or not exactly with each cut, but cut your way through multiples - just keep going one to the next without moving sideways or re-measuring. I let gravity do the log moving, and shift around as I go depending on what the piles is doing. That can also help avoid saw pinching stuff, but you need to be aware at all times what the pile is doing.

And I'm a bit contrarian on the stringer thing. That can lead to a saw pinching situation too, once you get to the bottom of the pile and you get in between the stringers. So I would just make some cuts most of the way through & roll the log over to finish. I would use them though if the pile is going to sit there for a while before I got to it.


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## velvetfoot (Aug 7, 2015)

One time they delivered them without stringers (don't know why).
The big difference to me was there was more crouching over required.
PS:  You NEED a peavy to roll those logs.


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## Highbeam (Aug 7, 2015)

Oldman47 said:


> Another option, to reduce handling, would be to cut 2/3 through then place a felling wedge in the top of the cut and just finish it. No pinching and no manhandling the log either.



So if you do this... when you do make it through that cut your wedge, the cut round, AND the whole rest of the log fall to the ground. Now you're cutting on an angle. When you've got many cords to cut you need to be cranking through this stuff much faster anyway. No time for wedges or even a tape measure.

I'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one cutting logs on the ground for support.


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## Typ0 (Aug 7, 2015)

well I'm out there cutting rounds now....got to say I'm way more scared of the logs rolling on me than the chain saw.  Not what I expected really but I know killer danger when I see it.


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## Typ0 (Aug 7, 2015)

Highbeam said:


> So if you do this... when you do make it through that cut your wedge, the cut round, AND the whole rest of the log fall to the ground. Now you're cutting on an angle. When you've got many cords to cut you need to be cranking through this stuff much faster anyway. No time for wedges or even a tape measure.
> 
> I'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one cutting logs on the ground for support.



i wish I could get the logs on top down on the ground!  I'm hesitant to climb up there to start at the top as the whole pile could start rolling


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## sportbikerider78 (Aug 7, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> You know the .22 hammers you plug anchors into concrete with?  Why can't you just hit it with big enough cartridge to bust it up?  I don't know enough about wood yet but this sounds like an interesting idea for you.


12 Gauge axe.  I'm listening!


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## velvetfoot (Aug 7, 2015)

You go to either end of the pile, pick a likely candidate, and use your Peavy to roll it off.  You are off to the side, and, theoretically, out of harm's way.


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## Highbeam (Aug 7, 2015)

velvetfoot said:


> You go to either end of the pile, pick a likely candidate, and use your Peavy to roll it off.  You are off to the side, and, theoretically, out of harm's way.



I've even grabbed on with an axe, using it like a pulp hook, to pull them off. Usually there's one that is about to roll that you can sort of help along. You can also saw the log in half on top and then work down that half log a bit easier. You're just trying to knock it down so it doesn't need to be pretty.


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## maple1 (Aug 7, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> i wish I could get the logs on top down on the ground!  I'm hesitant to climb up there to start at the top as the whole pile could start rolling



Uh yeah, climbing up top I don't usually do. Should be able to keep working at it from all sides. Sorta like a big jenga/pick-up-sticks game. Kinda....


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## Typ0 (Aug 7, 2015)

maple1 said:


> Uh yeah, climbing up top I don't usually do. Should be able to keep working at it from all sides. Sorta like a big jenga/pick-up-sticks game. Kinda....



I'm not sure Jenga is the analogy I'm looking for here.....


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## Typ0 (Aug 9, 2015)

This morning I decided hell is going to freeze over before I split this log load with an axe.  It gets stuck every time and rarely splits the log.  UgH.


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## Highbeam (Aug 10, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> This morning I decided hell is going to freeze over before I split this log load with an axe.  It gets stuck every time and rarely splits the log.  UgH.



You're trying to hand split a log load? Yeah, I don't do that. Cut all the logs to rounds and rent a splitter. You can get a lot done, especially if someone is willing to roll the rounds to your splitting station. Just keep that ram moving.


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## bad news (Aug 10, 2015)

Don't despair!

Step one is to use a good quality maul, and make sure it's got a decent edge on it.  A lot of guys on here like the Fiskars X27 and it seems to work for them.  I use a wooden handled Husqvarna splitting maul that I like very much.  Others prefer Council Tool, Gransfors Bruks, various Monster Mauls, etc.

If you are simply sticking the maul into the wood without any splitting action whatsoever you need to generate some more speed on the tool or locate your strikes more correctly.  One trick to really get the head of the tool cooking is to lower particularly stubborn rounds onto the ground rather than splitting them up on a stump.  That extra two feet gives you a lot more swing.  Work in shorter stints so you don't fatigue or injure yourself.  Try to locate your strikes along existing cracks or with regards to forks and knots, so you're splitting through them with the grain or around them but not so much across them.

It can help to spend some quality time on the couch watching youtube videos of people splitting wood to help study up on different techniques and polish up your swing.  Don't forget to have a beer while you're doing this hard work.

Finally, rent a splitter and get that crap done.

Good luck!


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## Typ0 (Aug 11, 2015)

Thanks guys.  A friend with a splitter said he's going to come over in a couple weeks and split it up with me.  Phew


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## kennyp2339 (Aug 11, 2015)

my first year burning I hand split about 4.5 cords of maple & oak. I just made a plan of splitting between 10 -15 rounds a day, the pile was done in a few weeks. I new I could borrow a splitter also so if I ran into something that was to hard to split I would just put in the hydro pile. It worked out well for me.


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## Typ0 (Aug 11, 2015)

That's what I was thinking too ... but I need different tools and don't want to spend any more money on this project this year.  I need a good splitting maul and some felling wedges.  And a peavy which is expensive as well....


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## Ashful (Aug 12, 2015)

My first year back into burning after a twelve year hiatus, I split over 10 cords by hand.  Got pretty damn good and fast at it.  Also developed some shoulder problems that still bother me three years later.


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## Typ0 (Aug 23, 2015)

Well...I'm sawing through the load OK.  It's clear to me my sharpening skills need honing!


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## bad news (Aug 23, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> Well...I'm sawing through the load OK.  It's clear to me my sharpening skills need honing!




This will get you going good...

https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/


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## Typ0 (Aug 23, 2015)

That looks awesome but it's $125 and a future purchase I can't afford that right now!


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## velvetfoot (Aug 23, 2015)

The local hardware store here sharpens them for 6 bucks.
As I recall, I can just about get through a log load on one chain, so you must be getting close, right?


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## Typ0 (Aug 23, 2015)

I am only half way there.  I can keep cutting it's not that bad but would rather maintain it sharp.  I have to work on that!


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## velvetfoot (Aug 24, 2015)

Good.  Keep going.


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## Ashful (Aug 24, 2015)

I figure on two chains per day, when cutting.  If you want to get thru a weekend, and have them sharpened during the week in preparation for the following weekend, best just keep four chains on hand.  Once you get a good feel for the saw, you'll notice the chips getting smaller and the work getting harder, about half way thru each day of cutting.


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## Typ0 (Aug 24, 2015)

Ashful said:


> I figure on two chains per day, when cutting.  If you want to get thru a weekend, and have them sharpened during the week in preparation for the following weekend, best just keep four chains on hand.  Once you get a good feel for the saw, you'll notice the chips getting smaller and the work getting harder, about half way thru each day of cutting.




yes that's what I am experiencing....and it really shows when I cut into harder woods!  Maybe I should get another chain...just the same I have to figure out how to sharpen one!


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## Typ0 (Aug 24, 2015)

I'm getting into some big logs of hardwoods now....going to post some pics so I can get some help on what they are.  But the saw is bogging down and the work getting harder....


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## Oldman47 (Aug 24, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> yes that's what I am experiencing....and it really shows when I cut into harder woods!  Maybe I should get another chain...just the same I have to figure out how to sharpen one!


Learn to sharpen a chain. You can't go on forever relying on the local shop to do it for you. I like this tool to keep everything the way it should be. The instructions that come with it really suck but there are videos that show how to really use it for good results like this one. 

I have the Granberg version of the same file guide.


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## billb3 (Aug 24, 2015)

I touch up a chain at lunch break with a hand file.
I usually have a second chain with me just in case I hit dirt/rock .


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## maple1 (Aug 24, 2015)

I don't take any extra chains with me. I have two saws if one suddenly gets really bad, but otherwise I just take a break & handfile when needed. Only takes a couple minutes - likely not much longer than changing a chain. Usually every second fill up, depending on the wood. There is a big difference in woods though, as mentioned. I found a few big old sugar maple windfalls I've been picking away at on the weekends. One I swear has gotten to be half petrified since it fell - brutally hard stuff, once you get past the first inch or so of punk.


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## BigCountryNY (Aug 25, 2015)

IMHO, it's important to learn how to properly hand file your chain. I have recently switched to using my Dremel with their chainsaw sharpening file and guide - previously I always sharpened by hand. If you have a Dremel, the sharpening kit is $15.  That being said, I wouldn't recommend doing this until having a good grasp on sharpening by hand (which generally only takes a dozen or so times to get proficient). Power tools being faster, you can really screw up a tooth in a short amount of time.  I find that the Dremel file in the kit isn't super aggressive, which is also good as it will get the chain very sharp but not cut the teeth back too fast.  I've seen some people use bench sharpeners and they only get a handful of sharpenings out of their chain before they have to replace them. But maybe they had a cheap bench sharpener.  You'll be happier (and safer) with a sharp chain on your saw. Husqvarna and Stihl all have videos on YouTube showing how to sharpen chains and the techniques are applicable to any brand of saw.


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## Typ0 (Aug 25, 2015)

I am going to work towards getting the device Oldman suggested but today I was in Tractor Supply and they had a kit with a guide and files for $10 so I bought that.  Thank for the help everyone!


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## Ashful (Aug 25, 2015)

Watch some videos on how to sharpen, and you'll be on your way.  Don't forget the depth gauges, something too many skip.


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## Typ0 (Aug 25, 2015)

Ashful said:


> Watch some videos on how to sharpen, and you'll be on your way.  Don't forget the depth gauges, something too many skip.



yeah thanks!  That's why I wanted the guide.


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## bfitz3 (Aug 26, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> That's what I was thinking too ... but I need different tools and don't want to spend any more money on this project this year.  I need a good splitting maul and some felling wedges.  And a peavy which is expensive as well....


Hit up a few farm auctions. You can get really good tools cheaply. Of course, you can pay a lot for trash, so be careful!


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## Typ0 (Aug 26, 2015)

I notice quite a bit of difference after one sharpening with the guide.  It needs more but I'm on the right track!


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## gerry100 (Aug 29, 2015)

- working your pile is a lot of fun BUT stop when you tire , before accidents happen

- I've reduced a few pile of Log lengths to stove wood with my Stihl 026 16" bar and it's not bad. Starting anew I'd go 18"

-measure the stove length you want from the tip of your bar back to a point on the saw case and mark it with a sharpie. Makes it easy to eyeball where you want to make your cut( we are not making furniture here)

- if you plan to cut in the woods at all,a longer bar gets in the way more


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## Ashful (Aug 29, 2015)

gerry100 said:


> - if you plan to cut in the woods at all,a longer bar gets in the way more


Huh?  I cut with saws wearing bars 14" thru 36".  Any bar below 30" is a non-issue in the woods, so your comparison of 16" and 18" is just silly, in this regard.  I use my 28" bar in the woods more per year than most folks here will do in five years, and it's never been an issue.


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## Typ0 (Aug 29, 2015)

I have the 20" bar on the saw now.  The only issue I have with it is when the tip is near other logs as I'm trying  to cut down the pile.  Things are going well and even better when I keep it sharp!


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## Typ0 (Sep 19, 2015)

So my saw now seems to spin and not be cutting now .... then it will bite in and cut like a dream.  What is causing that?


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## ballibeg (Sep 19, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> So my saw now seems to spin and not be cutting now .... then it will bite in and cut like a dream.  What is causing that?


Rakers too high?


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## Hogwildz (Sep 19, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> So my saw now seems to spin and not be cutting now .... then it will bite in and cut like a dream.  What is causing that?


If it starts cutting on an angle after it bites, your bar may be worn, or one side of chain wasn't sharpened correctly or at correct angle.


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## Typ0 (Sep 19, 2015)

I can see it being a combination of the rakers and my poor chain sharpening skills I am working on improving.  

But I'm also having a hard time understanding how one second it's cutting fine and the next it's just spinning in the log.  That feels odd to me.  If the rakers were to high it should never cut right?  The poor sharpening makes more sense....maybe the saw needs to change it's alignment a little to bite in.


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## barmstrong2 (Sep 20, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> I just actually cut wood with a chain saw for the first time.  It's easy!  I have some other things to do today but* this log load is going to be rendered into rounds in the next few days* I would imagine...then I will start splitting.  I'm excited to get this done and learn some new skills.  Thank you everyone for the input and help.



This thread has been fun to go through. I did chuckle when I read this post, and, here we are at mid September.


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## Typ0 (Sep 20, 2015)

I'm still behind schedule barm but I am working the problem!


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## BigCountryNY (Sep 20, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> I can see it being a combination of the rakers and my poor chain sharpening skills I am working on improving.
> 
> But I'm also having a hard time understanding how one second it's cutting fine and the next it's just spinning in the log.  That feels odd to me.  If the rakers were to high it should never cut right?  The poor sharpening makes more sense....maybe the saw needs to change it's alignment a little to bite in.



It's likely that one side of your chain is sharper than the other, as @Hogwildz mentioned.  

Also, have you been turning your bar over every 2-3 times you sharpen your chain?  This will help your bar wear more evenly.


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## Typ0 (Sep 20, 2015)

BigCountryNY said:


> It's likely that one side of your chain is sharper than the other, as @Hogwildz mentioned.
> 
> Also, have you been turning your bar over every 2-3 times you sharpen your chain?  This will help your bar wear more evenly.




No.  I did not know anything about the turning the bar or the bar wearing!


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## Ashful (Sep 20, 2015)

Bars wear very slowly, but they do need cleaning to keep the oil ways clear.  Those of us who swap chains, rather than sharpening on the bar, just flip the bar with each chain swap.  If you're sharpening on the bar, you need to come up with some schedule for flipping and cleaning.  Every two sharpenings ain't a bad idea, depending on what you're cutting.

Clean the oil passage on side of bar, clean groove, and grease the sprocket (unless newer Stihl).  Also clean saw and sprocket cover.


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## Typ0 (Sep 20, 2015)

Thank you!


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## Ashful (Sep 21, 2015)

What bar model do you have?  Does it have a grease hole for the nose sprocket?


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## Typ0 (Sep 21, 2015)

Ashful said:


> What bar model do you have?  Does it have a grease hole for the nose sprocket?




http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blue-Max...-8902/202555248?N=5yc1vZbxam#customer_reviews

This is the saw I have.


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## Ashful (Sep 22, 2015)

Don't know that saw, but I'll bet it has a greaser for nose sprocket.  If so, you're going to need this:

https://s.yimg.com/lo/api/res/1.2/T...s/Large/226/156/999999-62093226156.jpg.cf.jpg


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## gerry100 (Sep 24, 2015)

for years I hand filed and inevitably messed up the chain.

Got a $30 bench sharpener from Harbor Freight, although it is junk as a machine once you get the hang of using it evenly it works better than a hand file.

At least doubled the useful life of my chains.

Also, as you develop more skill with thew saw you'll saw less rocks and dirt which helps a lot


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## sportbikerider78 (Sep 24, 2015)

I bought a harbor freight chainsaw sharpener that uses an abrasive wheel.  Works great for me!  $29 bucks.
I clamped it to the table of my drill press so the height is adjustable and then rolled over a shop chair.  Very comfortable to use in my basement.

I had an old chain I hit a nail with and brought it back to life.  That was 5 sharpenings ago.


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## Typ0 (Sep 24, 2015)

gerry I have not sawed a rock yet and only a tiny bit of dirt once.  I am curious how the machine is junk but works???

Sportrider can you provide a link to the sharpener you are talking about?


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## claydogg84 (Sep 24, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> gerry I have not sawed a rock yet and only a tiny bit of dirt once.  I am curious how the machine is junk but works???
> 
> Sportrider can you provide a link to the sharpener you are talking about?



It is a very cheaply made tool. I suggest learning with the hand file as there will be plenty of times when that is your only option. Once you get the hang of it you will be able to sharpen a dull chain in 5-10 minutes depending on bar size.


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## sportbikerider78 (Sep 24, 2015)

Here ya go.  It's not amazing, but we are talking about removing depth (easy to set and repeatable) and angle (also easy to set and repeatable).  It is a spinning disk under minimum load and it is much more repeatable than by hand for a beginner.....we aren't going to the moon here.     Some tools are worth spending a great deal of money on, some are not.
http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-61613.html


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## Typ0 (Sep 24, 2015)

sportbikerider78 said:


> Here ya go.  It's not amazing, but we are talking about removing depth (easy to set and repeatable) and angle (also easy to set and repeatable).  It is a spinning disk under minimum load and it is much more repeatable than by hand for a beginner.....we aren't going to the moon here.     Some tools are worth spending a great deal of money on, some are not.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-61613.html



I like the looks of that thing!  Might just have to get one to help out.  I probably will get another chain and use something like that to keep things "right" and then I can still use the hand sharpener at gas fills for touch ups.  I really like working with a good chain letting it dull is a battle some people seem to like...not me LOL.

I got a snow day today!  My school closed due to a power outage.  I have done some work on the wood for certain.  My log load is still here though LMAO!


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## HItz (Sep 24, 2015)

Don't forget to get a 20% off coupon before you go buy it.  Just google for it.


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## maple1 (Sep 24, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> I like the looks of that thing!  Might just have to get one to help out.  I probably will get another chain and use something like that to keep things "right" and then I can still use the hand sharpener at gas fills for touch ups.  I really like working with a good chain letting it dull is a battle some people seem to like...not me LOL.
> 
> I got a snow day today!  My school closed due to a power outage.  I have done some work on the wood for certain.  My log load is still here though LMAO!


 

Better pay attention to the directions - pretty sure the chain is on it backwards in two of those ad pics.


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## illenema (Sep 24, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> I like the looks of that thing!  Might just have to get one to help out.  I probably will get another chain and use something like that to keep things "right" and then I can still use the hand sharpener at gas fills for touch ups.  I really like working with a good chain letting it dull is a battle some people seem to like...not me LOL.
> 
> I got a snow day today!  My school closed due to a power outage.  I have done some work on the wood for certain.  My log load is still here though LMAO!




Any photos of the progress?


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## Ashful (Sep 24, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> I like the looks of that thing!  Might just have to get one to help out.  I probably will get another chain and use something like that to keep things "right" and then I can still use the hand sharpener at gas fills for touch ups.


Going from that style sharpener to a round file and back will not usually yield great results.  The profile left by grinding with a wheel is different than the profile you get with a round file, so you're sort of stuck going with one or the other, not switch hitting.


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## Typ0 (Sep 24, 2015)

I don't know how much wood this all is really.  The first pic is stacked right outside my back door.  It's not a very good angle and it's quite a stack.  The second is a stack in the back.  The third is what's left of the logs.


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## Typ0 (Sep 24, 2015)

Ashful said:


> Going from that style sharpener to a round file and back will not usually yield great results.  The profile left by grinding with a wheel is different than the profile you get with a round file, so you're sort of stuck going with one or the other, not switch hitting.



Thank you for saying that it makes total sense and I never would have guessed it LOL.


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## Typ0 (Sep 24, 2015)

I am getting the feeling the splitting goes quicker than the sawing really...which is kinda surprising.


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## BigCountryNY (Sep 25, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> I am getting the feeling the splitting goes quicker than the sawing really...which is kinda surprising.



Since you're just getting started using your chainsaw and working through a load of logs, it might seem like that.  As long as there is room I can cut up a whole load of logs in day's time. The rate limiting factor (even with a splitter) is splitting.


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## velvetfoot (Sep 25, 2015)

BigCountryNY said:


> As long as there is room


Key


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## sportbikerider78 (Sep 25, 2015)

Invite a few hard working friends over for when you rent/acquire a splitter.  It goes 3x faster with someone loading, someone running it, and someone stacking.


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## Typ0 (Sep 25, 2015)

BigCountryNY said:


> Since you're just getting started using your chainsaw and working through a load of logs, it might seem like that.  As long as there is room I can cut up a whole load of logs in day's time. The rate limiting factor (even with a splitter) is splitting.



Yeah Key I get that.  I was cutting a lot faster till I ran out of room LOL...but I have been clearing more room now!


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## Typ0 (Dec 2, 2015)

just an update that I only have a couple more piles to stack ... everything is split so I am pretty much done with this load.  I have a couple cords left from last year and this years wood is good so I am looking at burning decent wood all winter which is a good feeling.

Now, I am wondering what kind of gloves to buy because I am tiring of the disposable ones from Lowe's ripping right away....


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## Ashful (Dec 3, 2015)

I just buy the inexpenive leather gloves, and plan on going thru them pretty quick.  I've bought much more expensive gloves that don't last that much longer, so it seems the economics favor the cheaper leather gloves.

For running the saw, I prefer Stihl chainsaw gloves or mechanics gloves, but they too wear out quick when handling wood all day.


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## Longstreet (Dec 4, 2015)

Typ0 said:


> View attachment 162349
> View attachment 162350
> View attachment 162351
> 
> ...



It's bigger than it looks, I promise!

Lot's of people have said that before.


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