# what is the best way to assemble pellet vent pipe?



## Val (May 27, 2012)

I really wanted to ask about this basic question.  I am "reassembling" some pipe (some new pieces and some old) and figure the best way is to use the twistlock by itself, but perhaps add some Rutland direct vent sealant to the joints after assembly. This squeeze-tube sealant is flat black in color and latex based so I can get it apart for cleaning/ or other in the future. In the past, I assembled pellet pipe with clear silicone hi- heat caulk at the joints and it is a pain to take apart. Also, when I deal with one of Simpson Dura Vents adjustable pipes (usually I use 1 foot section), do you caulk this adjustable section in particular because it is prone to leaking? Also, do you screw fasten it to the twist sections, or do you prefer to let it "float" more for ease of dissassembly-sealing it with caulk later after the height is set. In one forum, someone suggested putting HVAC foil tape on the joints. I like that idea, but wonder if the tape holds up to that much more heat. Also, I have been painting the pipes black in color. If I knew about the tape idea, I would have left them galvanized. The paint actually does stick to the galvanized, I dont think it comes out that bad.


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## DexterDay (May 27, 2012)

I use the tape.... Works great and the pipe doesn't get nowhere near hot enough to worry about it.

Paint the pipe with the tape on it... Should still look decent.

Or use High temp RTV and put it on the outside of the joint. Light coating and your Good to Go.


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## Defiant (May 27, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> I use the tape.... Works great and the pipe doesn't get nowhere near hot enough to worry about it.
> 
> Paint the pipe with the tape on it... Should still look decent.
> 
> Or use High temp RTV and put it on the outside of the joint. Light coating and your Good to Go.


X2


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## smoke show (May 27, 2012)

Quality pipe don't require additional sealants.

just sayin.


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## Don2222 (May 28, 2012)

Hello

In my shed I have the standard duravent with 2 adjustable one foot lengths for the stoves that I rebuild. When I went from the Pelpro where the stove output pipe almost touched the floor to the Enviro Meridian that was 18 inches on center high off the floor I had to make quite an adjustment. So I found that the duravent interlock is very good and I do not have leaks there. In fact I coat these connections with Never Seez grease that boiler men use so I can get these connections apart easily when I change stoves. Most of the time I find the problem area is where the stove connects to the stove adapter may not always fit well. The old year 2,000 Quadrafire Classic Bay really did not fit well. So for that connection RTV or foil really helps keep the smoke out of the room. Some people put one or two self tapping vent pipe screws thru the vent pipe and into the stove output flange to prevent the seal from breaking easily. This ensures no smoke leakage!

In my home, I got tired of taking the pipes apart for cleaning so I just go 2 Ts and a Double T. Now I can clean all the pipes in 10 mins!

See photos!


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## smwilliamson (May 30, 2012)

Val said:


> I really wanted to ask about this basic question. I am "reassembling" some pipe (some new pieces and some old) and figure the best way is to use the twistlock by itself, but perhaps add some Rutland direct vent sealant to the joints after assembly. This squeeze-tube sealant is flat black in color and latex based so I can get it apart for cleaning/ or other in the future. In the past, I assembled pellet pipe with clear silicone hi- heat caulk at the joints and it is a pain to take apart. Also, when I deal with one of Simpson Dura Vents adjustable pipes (usually I use 1 foot section), do you caulk this adjustable section in particular because it is prone to leaking? Also, do you screw fasten it to the twist sections, or do you prefer to let it "float" more for ease of dissassembly-sealing it with caulk later after the height is set. In one forum, someone suggested putting HVAC foil tape on the joints. I like that idea, but wonder if the tape holds up to that much more heat. Also, I have been painting the pipes black in color. If I knew about the tape idea, I would have left them galvanized. The paint actually does stick to the galvanized, I dont think it comes out that bad.


Sealing the outsid eof the joint does little to nothing for a seam under positive pressure from the inside. Try sealing a garden hose with duct tape. You have to seal from within. If its old pipe, good luck, the silicone doesn't stick to ash.


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## AbetterChimneynm (May 30, 2012)

We use ICC Pipe so we dont need any sealant as it has a high temp rubber seal inside (Best pipe on the market if you ask me!!)


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## smwilliamson (May 30, 2012)

AbetterChimneynm said:


> We use ICC Pipe so we dont need any sealant as it has a high temp rubber seal inside (Best pipe on the market if you ask me!!)


It isn't high temp rubber...it's silicon gasket. Duravent pellet pro has it too but the ICC is better. I love ICC pipe.


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## Val (May 31, 2012)

smwilliamson said:


> Sealing the outsid eof the joint does little to nothing for a seam under positive pressure from the inside. Try sealing a garden hose with duct tape. You have to seal from within. If its old pipe, good luck, the silicone doesn't stick to ash.


 What type of advice would you give to those who support the tape idea? I mean, it works on HVAC. I just thought the foil tape wouldn't withstand the heat from a pellet stove pipe. I am not against sealing the inside of a pellet stove pipe. I assume you mean putting silicone on the "twist" part that goes between the inner and outer walls of the mating pipe. But my goal was to be able to get the pipes apart again. Silicone can be really tough. Also, when it comes to cleaning old pipes for reassembly, I just brush the ash out but can clean the steel up with brake cleaner at the edges if I want to apply sealant.


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## Val (May 31, 2012)

Don2222 said:


> Hello
> 
> In my shed I have the standard duravent with 2 adjustable one foot lengths for the stoves that I rebuild. When I went from the Pelpro where the stove output pipe almost touched the floor to the Enviro Meridian that was 18 inches on center high off the floor I had to make quite an adjustment. So I found that the duravent interlock is very good and I do not have leaks there. In fact I coat these connections with Never Seez grease that boiler men use so I can get these connections apart easily when I change stoves. Most of the time I find the problem area is where the stove connects to the stove adapter may not always fit well. The old year 2,000 Quadrafire Classic Bay really did not fit well. So for that connection RTV or foil really helps keep the smoke out of the room. Some people put one or two self tapping vent pipe screws thru the vent pipe and into the stove output flange to prevent the seal from breaking easily. This ensures no smoke leakage!
> 
> ...


 Actually, I like the never sieze idea, but I wonder if you have to be careful not to put too much on so it doesnt squeeze out into the pipe inside and make a mess. Also, isn't this automotive never sieze? Instead of the silver, use the hi-temp copper?  I like the Tee idea, but to do this on a pellet stove pipe the idea would be to use perhaps another tee at the top of the pipe, instead of an elbow, but I dont think people do this because  they would want the exhaust gases to flow smoother, without harsh angles? Also, a four way is neat at the bottom, but I dont think I could get at the fourth leg of the tee, because pipe  is usually put close to the wall to save space. But it is an interesting idea if one could fit all those tees in, like for a basement pellet furnace application.


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