# Grinding angles



## Butcher

So, I been playin with my new electric sharpener. It occured to me I could make a few extra bucks sharpening chains for some local guys around here. The problem I can see with that is all the different chains and the angles they require. Is there a place in the web a guy could download the specs for chains without have'n to go to each chain mfg.'s website? Kinda a one stop referance guid kinda deal? Clear as mud, right?


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## MasterMech

You would have better luck printing out and laminating the spec chart from each mfg and laminating it. Hang 'em near the grinder. No such library that I'm aware of. But I'm listening if someone else knows of one.

Carlton, Stihl, Oregon - 3 sheets ought to have 99% of the chain you'll ever see covered.


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## Butcher

MasterMech said:


> You would have better luck printing out and laminating the spec chart from each mfg and laminating it. Hang 'em near the grinder. No such library that I'm aware of. But I'm listening if someone else knows of one.
> 
> Carlton, Stihl, Oregon - 3 sheets ought to have 99% of the chain you'll ever see covered.


 
Thanks, kinda what I figured too. I'm just in the thinkin stage here for now anyways. Except for the dealers around here, no one else seems to be doing it for a decent price. Local Stihl dealer is getting 12 bucks a pop to sharpen a 16" chain! He does a damned fine job of it but really????


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## Freakingstang

here's a generic one that a couple of us put together over the years.


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## MasterMech

Butcher said:


> Thanks, kinda what I figured too. I'm just in the thinkin stage here for now anyways. Except for the dealers around here, no one else seems to be doing it for a decent price. Local Stihl dealer is getting 12 bucks a pop to sharpen a 16" chain! He does a damned fine job of it but really????


 
There is some time/effort in doing it right. $8 a chain ain't worth it if it's a hack job. Professionally sharpened chains (done correctly and with care) are better than new.

That said, $12 is the most I've heard yet.


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## Freakingstang

12bucks a chain? holy cow.  might as well buy new...  the local stihl dealer whats 4 bucks a chain up to 20" and 5 bucks for 20-24.


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## Butcher

Freakingstang said:


> here's a generic one that a couple of us put together over the years.


 Thanks abunch. That seems to cover quite afew more than the 1 that came with the grinder. Saved and printed as we speak.


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## Butcher

Freakingstang said:


> 12bucks a chain? holy cow. might as well buy new... the local stihl dealer whats 4 bucks a chain up to 20" and 5 bucks for 20-24.


 I know. Like I said, he does a really good job. Soaks them in ammonia and cleans them all up and they look and cut like new but thats still alittle pricey. Even his kid who is in bisiness with him tells him he charges to much.


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## Pallet Pete

Freakingstang said:


> here's a generic one that a couple of us put together over the years.
> 
> 
> HOLY CRAP I LOVE YOU  NO MORE SAVING BOXES


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## Pallet Pete

Butcher said:


> I know. Like I said, he does a really good job. Soaks them in ammonia and cleans them all up and they look and cut like new but thats still alittle pricey. Even his kid who is in bisiness with him tells him he charges to much.


Ammonia cleans chains ?


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## JustWood

Find a good working angle for the types of wood in your area and set it/forget it.Dense wood- smaller angle, softer woods-larger angle . Wheel sizes will be critical.
Start selling  chain/bars  all at .050 gauge , full comp,semi-skip, or full skip and eventually you'll weed out all the different types out there.
Less types= less hassle.
The different tooth spacing will compensate for different power saws and you'll have less inventory.
IMHO the chain companies have a huge $ making racket with all the different type chains. You can accomplish as much if not more  with different filiing techniques as you can changing chain styles.


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## Butcher

Pallet Pete said:


> Ammonia cleans chains ?


 
He soaks all the chains he sharpens in a can of pure ammonia for 15 to 30 minutes depending on how much crap is on them. Then he rinses them with almost boiling water. The hotter the better. Kinda like cleaning a muzzle loader. The hotter the water the quicker it evaperates.


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## jeepmedic

Thats interesting....the hand file guide on my stihl chains is at 30*, while the grinder settings are at 25* ???

Can someone explain the difference?


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## Boog

Freakingstang said:


> 12bucks a chain? holy cow. might as well buy new... the local stihl dealer whats 4 bucks a chain up to 20" and 5 bucks for 20-24.


 
Are you talking about White's?  I've never had any done there, was wondering how good a job they did.


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## fabsroman

Freakingstang said:


> 12bucks a chain? holy cow. might as well buy new... the local stihl dealer whats 4 bucks a chain up to 20" and 5 bucks for 20-24.


 
Yeah, we live in different worlds. 26 RSC3 - 74 links (i.e., 18" chain for the MS261) cost me $36 at the local Stihl dealer in 2011, and they want $12 a chain to sharpen it. After that bending over, I bought 5 Stihl chains on the internet for $17 a pop. Getting ready to order the Northern Tools grinder.

Ironically, the guide you posted above is the same exact guide that is in the pdf manual of the Northern Tool grinder. Was looking it over last night to see if it had all the angle settings for the chains I want to sharpen. Lucky for me, it covers my saws and my dad's saw. Read through the manual, and about the only part I do not understand is which way to put the 10 degree tilt angle on the chain. Hoping it is simple to figure out once I have the chain sitting in the grinder. I'll sharpen my dad's POS chains first to see if I have it right. lol

http://www.northerntool.com/images/downloads/manuals/193020.pdf

Page 9

Now, I just need to blow it up on the copier to 11" x 17" so I don't go blind.


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## fabsroman

Pallet Pete said:


> Ammonia cleans chains ?


 
This evening I took a look at the chains I need to sharpen and boy are they dirty. Thinking about putting them in the ultrasonic cleaner with some mineral spirits. I use the ultrasonic cleaner on my bicycle chains and other bike parts and it does a fine job with them. Bet the saw chains will come out sparkling.

Only question is whether to clean them before or after sharpening.


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## Freakingstang

I have the northen grinder.  The bed tilt will be fairly easy to see once you have everything in front of you.  When doing the left hnd cutters, (farthest away from you) you want the bed tilted towards you, and the right side you want it away from you. its prolly clear as mud now, but once you have it in front of you it will be better to understand.


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## Freakingstang

I always soak mine in a bucket of diesel a day or so before I sharpen them, then run the brush in the parts washer over them. then compressed air to dry them off before grinding them.  it will save your stone. I also do the same thing for hand filing square chain, as a dirty chain will kill a 10 dollar file faster that a who re running out of church.


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## Freakingstang

Boog Powell said:


> Are you talking about White's? I've never had any done there, was wondering how good a job they did.


 
thats what he told me he charged.  I hand file, but I still have a grinder to take care of the metal hit or rocked out chains.  I'd never pay someone to sharpen chains, because I am just a cheap ass


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## fabsroman

Freakingstang said:


> I always soak mine in a bucket of diesel a day or so before I sharpen them, then run the brush in the parts washer over them. then compressed air to dry them off before grinding them. it will save your stone. I also do the same thing for hand filing square chain, as a dirty chain will kill a 10 dollar file faster that a who re running out of church.


 
That got a good laugh out of me. Thanks for that.

And thanks for the advice. I will clean the chains before I sharpen them. I'll also come back to this thread once I have the chain on the grinder so I can figure out the tilt angle.I think I understood what you wrote, but it will be a lot easier to apply it when I see it.


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## Freakingstang

fabsroman said:


> Yeah, we live in different worlds. 26 RSC3 - 74 links (i.e., 18" chain for the MS261) cost me $36 at the local Stihl dealer in 2011, and they want $12 a chain to sharpen it. After that bending over, I bought 5 Stihl chains on the internet for $17 a pop. .


 

The price of stihl chain has almost doubled in the last 5-7 years.  I used to pay 27 dollars for 2- 20" 72 DL 3/8 050 yellow RSC chains from my amish dealer back home.  If I bought two, the third was 4 bucks.  Needless to say I was very spoiled by the cost of chains.  He's the only dealership ive ever been in that STOCKS 058 Stihl RS chain for the husky's too.  I was running alot of Carlton chain the last 4-5 years as I was getting 100' reel for 150 shipped... that dried up a long time ago too..


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## Freakingstang

jeepmedic said:


> Thats interesting....the hand file guide on my stihl chains is at 30*, while the grinder settings are at 25* ???
> 
> Can someone explain the difference?


 
It is indeed 30 on stihl RS.  the guy I emailed all this info too years ago put this spreadsheet together and did a quick basic... he had another full length one and it ended up being like 6 pages with every chain ever made.  it is more of a cross reference, as in 72LG is the same as 33RC, even though it is not, all the other angles should be correct, although oregon an carlton both use 25 degree top plates an stihl uses 30 (at least on RSC, I can't remember the RM off the top of my head)


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## Freakingstang

Freakingstang said:


> It is indeed 30 on stihl RS. the guy I emailed all this info too years ago put this spreadsheet together and did a quick basic... he had another full length one and it ended up being like 6 pages with every chain ever made. it is more of a cross reference, as in 72LG is the same as 33RC, even though it is not, all the other angles should be correct, although oregon an carlton both use 25 degree top plates an stihl uses 30 (at least on RSC, I can't remember the RM off the top of my head)


 
What is the price of the northern grinder these days?  there was 8-9 of us that went in on making up this chart and got to try out a new grinder for less than half of a hundred bucks for our help and info, we surrendered the rights to that info... lol.


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## fabsroman

Freakingstang said:


> It is indeed 30 on stihl RS. the guy I emailed all this info too years ago put this spreadsheet together and did a quick basic... he had another full length one and it ended up being like 6 pages with every chain ever made. it is more of a cross reference, as in 72LG is the same as 33RC, even though it is not, all the other angles should be correct, although oregon an carlton both use 25 degree top plates an stihl uses 30 (at least on RSC, I can't remember the RM off the top of my head)


 
So, for 33 RS and 26 RS, the vise angle should be 30 degrees and not 25, correct? Man, there are a lot of Stihl RS chains that are listed in the chart at 25 degrees. Maybe it is like Lees says, certain angles for certain woods. Wonder if a 25 degree angle would be better for me since I am cutting mostly oak and locust? I might have to play around with the vise angle to see if it makes a difference.


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## fabsroman

Freakingstang said:


> What is the price of the northern grinder these days? there was 8-9 of us that went in on making up this chart and got to try out a new grinder for less than half of a hundred bucks for our help and info, we surrendered the rights to that info... lol.


 
Getting ready to buy it for $119 and $14 in shipping. Have been hemming and hawing all weekend about buying it over the twice as expensive Oregon 511, but if you have been using it, that is good enough for me. You guys should work on helping them draft a clearer manual. Had to read it about 3 times to make sure I understood most of it.


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## Freakingstang

fabsroman said:


> So, for 33 RS and 26 RS, the vise angle should be 30 degrees and not 25, correct? Man, there are a lot of Stihl RS chains that are listed in the chart at 25 degrees. Maybe it is like Lees says, certain angles for certain woods. Wonder if a 25 degree angle would be better for me since I am cutting mostly oak and locust? I might have to play around with the vise angle to see if it makes a difference.


 
I've had mine, like 7-8 years now? still works awesome, although I broke the handle on it.. well worth the basically just shipping price I paid for it..

Honestly I set all mine up the same...I'll take a brand new stihl RS chain and mount it up and set my angles as close as I can... If I remember correctly it is 27-28 degrees.  but yes, a sharper angle (30) will cut faster, but will aslo dull faster as the working corner is even smaller of a point.  25 is a good fast cutting angle that is durable.  Some guys don't worry about the tilt angle at all, I myself like it and know its cuts faster than the same chain with a level bed angle (0).


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## Freakingstang

Freakingstang said:


> I've had mine, like 7-8 years now? still works awesome, although I broke the handle on it.. well worth the basically just shipping price I paid for it..  I never mountedd mine to a bench though, I mounted it to a 3" piece of C channel that I can put in the vise and remove when not needed... dropped it one time and broke the plastic pull handle... its still have there so a little duct tape covered up the cracked plastic and still works.
> 
> Honestly I set all mine up the same...I'll take a brand new stihl RS chain and mount it up and set my angles as close as I can... If I remember correctly it is 27-28 degrees. but yes, a sharper angle (30) will cut faster, but will aslo dull faster as the working corner is even smaller of a point. 25 is a good fast cutting angle that is durable. Some guys don't worry about the tilt angle at all, I myself like it and know its cuts faster than the same chain with a level bed angle (0).


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## Freakingstang

Freakingstang said:


> I've had mine, like 7-8 years now? still works awesome, although I broke the handle on it.. well worth the basically just shipping price I paid for it.. I'd buy another one if needed. Alot of guys griped out the reversing switch...i've never had an issue with it, and never seen the problem to be big enough to install a reversing motor switch.
> 
> Honestly I set all mine up the same...I'll take a brand new stihl RS chain and mount it up and set my angles as close as I can... If I remember correctly it is 27-28 degrees. but yes, a sharper angle (30) will cut faster, but will aslo dull faster as the working corner is even smaller of a point. 25 is a good fast cutting angle that is durable. Some guys don't worry about the tilt angle at all, I myself like it and know its cuts faster than the same chain with a level bed angle (0).


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## Ralphie Boy

fabsroman said:


> This evening I took a look at the chains I need to sharpen and boy are they dirty. Thinking about putting them in the ultrasonic cleaner with some mineral spirits. I use the ultrasonic cleaner on my bicycle chains and other bike parts and it does a fine job with them. Bet the saw chains will come out sparkling.
> 
> Only question is whether to clean them before or after sharpening.


 
Both... First cleaning will make the as clean as your bike chain and the second will remove any abbrasive residue let from the sharpening. What kind of cycling do you do? I've got over 137K mile in 19 years of road cycling and self contained touring on 2 continents. LAB certified instructor #1390


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## Ralphie Boy

Pallet Pete said:


> Ammonia cleans chains ?


Ammonia is a de-greaser and will also disolive some typs of "varnish" build-ups. It is also less regulated in most shop applications unlike mineral spirts that cost more and take an act of God to properly dispose of when finished not to mention the regs on evaporation control.


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## fabsroman

Ralphie Boy said:


> Both... First cleaning will make the as clean as your bike chain and the second will remove any abbrasive residue let from the sharpening. What kind of cycling do you do? I've got over 137K mile in 19 years of road cycling and self contained touring on 2 continents. LAB certified instructor #1390


 
Mostly do road riding. Have 7 road bikes and 2 MTB's. Used to race a lot as a junior amongst the likes of George Hincapie, Bobby Julich, and Jonas Carney. Jonas was the first person to ever beat me, and he continued to do so every time I raced against him. My parents were wise to make me go to college and give up the dream of racing. The sport is such a mess that I could not in good conscience even try to get my kids enthusiastic about it. I know I have over 40k on my 25 year old bike, the majority of which was put on 20+ years ago, and another 10k+ on a Colnago. If I had to guess, I would guess I am in the 70K to 80k area mileage wise. 2012 was the first time in a long time that I did not log a single mile.

Now, back to chainsaw chains. Would you recommend the ultrasonic cleaner as the "after" cleaning method too?


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## Ralphie Boy

fabsroman said:


> Mostly do road riding. Have 7 road bikes and 2 MTB's. Used to race a lot as a junior amongst the likes of George Hincapie, Bobby Julich, and Jonas Carney. Jonas was the first person to ever beat me, and he continued to do so every time I raced against him. My parents were wise to make me go to college and give up the dream of racing. The sport is such a mess that I could not in good conscience even try to get my kids enthusiastic about it. I know I have over 40k on my 25 year old bike, the majority of which was put on 20+ years ago, and another 10k+ on a Colnago. If I had to guess, I would guess I am in the 70K to 80k area mileage wise. 2012 was the first time in a long time that I did not log a single mile.
> 
> Now, back to chainsaw chains. Would you recommend the ultrasonic cleaner as the "after" cleaning method too?


 
I don't think it's needed but if you have it why not? It is most likely just as easy to toss it in the tank for a couple of minutes as it is to do anything else.

Wow sorry to hear about 2012....unless you wanted it that way. I've never competed and never felt the need to. Like the old saying says "I ride my bike to ride my bike"


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## fabsroman

Ralphie Boy said:


> I don't think it's needed but if you have it why not? It is most likely just as easy to toss it in the tank for a couple of minutes as it is to do anything else.
> 
> Wow sorry to hear about 2012....unless you wanted it that way. I've never competed and never felt the need to. Like the old saying says "I ride my bike to ride my bike"


 
There were more important things to deal with in 2012. Now, getting back to normal and about to start hitting the trainer so I will be in some sort of shape when the weather gets better.


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## kenskip1

Next question,A person wants his safety chains sharpened. The chain has the shark fin in front of the raker.You sharpen it for him but he returns saying that it does not cut worth a darn.Did you lower the raker?If the shark fin was in front of the raker how could you lower it?Do you see what I am getting at? A non safety chain is a breeze to sharpen.Adjusting the raker is easy enough however, the safety chains are another ball of wax.Personally I would get some time sharpening some of your own chains before you  try and do others.Best of luck with your grinder, Ken


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## Ralphie Boy

kenskip1 said:


> Next question,A person wants his safety chains sharpened. The chain has the shark fin in front of the raker.You sharpen it for him but he returns saying that it does not cut worth a darn.Did you lower the raker?If the shark fin was in front of the raker how could you lower it?Do you see what I am getting at? A non safety chain is a breeze to sharpen.Adjusting the raker is easy enough however, the safety chains are another ball of wax.Personally I would get some time sharpening some of your own chains before you try and do others.Best of luck with your grinder, Ken


 
Maybe suggest a non-safety semi or full chisle


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## fabsroman

kenskip1 said:


> Next question,A person wants his safety chains sharpened. The chain has the shark fin in front of the raker.You sharpen it for him but he returns saying that it does not cut worth a darn.Did you lower the raker?If the shark fin was in front of the raker how could you lower it?Do you see what I am getting at? A non safety chain is a breeze to sharpen.Adjusting the raker is easy enough however, the safety chains are another ball of wax.Personally I would get some time sharpening some of your own chains before you try and do others.Best of luck with your grinder, Ken


 
Yeah, I am about to file down the shark fins on my safety chains so I can get them out of the way. Or, at least file them down as I file down the depth gauge. Would that be a bad idea?


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## amateur cutter

fabsroman said:


> Yeah, I am about to file down the shark fins on my safety chains so I can get them out of the way. Or, at least file them down as I file down the depth gauge. Would that be a bad idea?


Compare the height to the actual raker. I think you'll find that it's quite a bit lower already. usually any anti kickback device is well below the cutter's minimum height. They slow the cut speed because they limit the depth the chain cutter can achieve while it porpoises through the wood. The more space taken up between the cutters the less distance the cutter has to gouge into the wood. My .02 worth. A C


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## Boog

I picked up several like new 3/8 16" "full" safety chains with one of the saws I traded for.  I aggressivly ground down the long "shark fins" and rakers too, took maybe a 1/3 off them, on the first chain I tried.  It seems to cut very nice with the 031AV, has enough power to move it along.  Just make sure whatever saw you are using it on can pull your more aggressive finished product!


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## Boog

kenskip1 said:


> Next question,A person wants his safety chains sharpened. The chain has the shark fin in front of the raker.You sharpen it for him but he returns saying that it does not cut worth a darn.Did you lower the raker?If the shark fin was in front of the raker how could you lower it?Do you see what I am getting at? A non safety chain is a breeze to sharpen.Adjusting the raker is easy enough however, the safety chains are another ball of wax.Personally I would get some time sharpening some of your own chains before you try and do others.Best of luck with your grinder, Ken


 
I would not "significantly" modify someone else's safety chains. Its one thing to do it for yourself, another to do it "commercially" to someone else's chain.  Might be opening yourself up to liability issues.  I'd go with Ralphie Boy's suggestion above here.


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## Butcher

kenskip1 said:


> Next question,A person wants his safety chains sharpened. The chain has the shark fin in front of the raker.You sharpen it for him but he returns saying that it does not cut worth a darn.Did you lower the raker?If the shark fin was in front of the raker how could you lower it?Do you see what I am getting at? A non safety chain is a breeze to sharpen.Adjusting the raker is easy enough however, the safety chains are another ball of wax.Personally I would get some time sharpening some of your own chains before you try and do others.Best of luck with your grinder, Ken


 Well Ken, I dont know nothin bout no safty chains. I have never seen them on a saw or for sale for that matter in my neck of the woods. I was only thinking about sharpening chains for some buddies of mine and have a few beers while we where doing so. I will thank you on pointing out the errors of my thinking though. In the late 70's and most of the 80's I was the sole butcher of our small town locker killing up to 100 head of hogs and cattle a week. While most folks in this area were otta work I was makin a good livin. Then I got back into the landscapeing biz with my wifes family that has been in biz for over 85 years. Been doing that for almost 25 years now and as a landscape superviser I have to run jobs that are 10's of thousands of dollars on a daily basis. Not to mention the fact that I also have to keep a fleet of 10 trucks, 5 tractors, 3 skidloaders, and a pile of sodcutters and edgers and weedeaters and saws running. That and the fact that over the years I have built over a dozen costom Harleys for myself and others with no complaints. I'm realizing now though that I'm a pretty ignorant hillbilly. Heaven forbide I would want to sharpen a freakin saw chain for a couple of buddies. In fact, you got me wunderin if I'm actually smart enough to heat my home with a woodstove after all these years. I'm surprized I am still livin what with all the wood I burnt over the years. Sheesh.


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## fabsroman

Boog Powell said:


> I would not "significantly" modify someone else's safety chains. Its one thing to do it for yourself, another to do it "commercially" to someone else's chain. Might be opening yourself up to liability issues. I'd go with Ralphie Boy's suggestion above here.


 
Yeah, I don't have any liability insurance related to chain sharpening, so only going to be sharpening mine and my dad's. I'm going to try grinding down the safety tabs on one of my RMC chains to see if that helps. Have 3 of those chains and it is going to take a while to wear them out to the point of justifying their replacement for RS chain.


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## fabsroman

Butcher said:


> Well Ken, I dont know nothin bout no safty chains. I have never seen them on a saw or for sale for that matter in my neck of the woods. I was only thinking about sharpening chains for some buddies of mine and have a few beers while we where doing so. I will thank you on pointing out the errors of my thinking though. In the late 70's and most of the 80's I was the sole butcher of our small town locker killing up to 100 head of hogs and cattle a week. While most folks in this area were otta work I was makin a good livin. Then I got back into the landscapeing biz with my wifes family that has been in biz for over 85 years. Been doing that for almost 25 years now and as a landscape superviser I have to run jobs that are 10's of thousands of dollars on a daily basis. Not to mention the fact that I also have to keep a fleet of 10 trucks, 5 tractors, 3 skidloaders, and a pile of sodcutters and edgers and weedeaters and saws running. That and the fact that over the years I have built over a dozen costom Harleys for myself and others with no complaints. I'm realizing now though that I'm a pretty ignorant hillbilly. Heaven forbide I would want to sharpen a freakin saw chain for a couple of buddies. In fact, you got me wunderin if I'm actually smart enough to heat my home with a woodstove after all these years. I'm surprized I am still livin what with all the wood I burnt over the years. Sheesh.


 
Yeah, it really isn't about whether or not you are smart enough to sharpen a chain, but whether or not the personal injury attorney representing the estate of your deceased buddy is smart enough to understand that the reason the chain flew off the saw and killed your buddy is because of some other reason than how you sharpened it. If not, it will easily cost you several thousands of dollars to defend the case and convince a judge/jury that it was not your fault, unless you can find some type of insurance policy you have in place that will cover the cost of the defense.

I have no idea what things are like where you live, but around here everybody looks to hold somebody else accountable for the mistakes that they themselves make. I used to help friends work on their cars, but that was when I was young, poor, and unwise. If they got a judgment against me back then, not such a big idea. Now, with assets to my name and a family, I only do the simplest of repairs to friends' cars. Not because I think I might not do the repair correctly, but because I do not want to be the defendant in a lawsuit should they leave my place after a repair and get into an accident.


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## Butcher

fabsroman said:


> Yeah, it really isn't about whether or not you are smart enough to sharpen a chain, but whether or not the personal injury attorney representing the estate of your deceased buddy is smart enough to understand that the reason the chain flew off the saw and killed your buddy is because of some other reason than how you sharpened it. If not, it will easily cost you several thousands of dollars to defend the case and convince a judge/jury that it was not your fault, unless you can find some type of insurance policy you have in place that will cover the cost of the defense.
> 
> I have no idea what things are like where you live, but around here everybody looks to hold somebody else accountable for the mistakes that they themselves make. I used to help friends work on their cars, but that was when I was young, poor, and unwise. If they got a judgment against me back then, not such a big idea. Now, with assets to my name and a family, I only do the simplest of repairs to friends' cars. Not because I think I might not do the repair correctly, but because I do not want to be the defendant in a lawsuit should they leave my place after a repair and get into an accident.


 
Your missing the big picture. I have a almost million dollar liability policey and if 1 of my close friends kilt hisself with a chainsaw  chain that I sharpenened for him he probably shouldnt have been runnin the thing in the first place. We do things alittle differantly out here in the flat lands than most of you folks do. Sides, I never heard of a chain skippin of a bar and killin no one less the was stupid. I wish I had never started this thread. It's starting to piss me off. It's a freakin chain saw chain for cryin out loud.


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## fabsroman

Not exactly on point, but nephew sues uncle over tree cutting injury:

Our client was a 56 year old man who was using a chainsaw to cut up fallen trees and branches lying on the ground of a woods in Portage County owned by his uncle.His uncle was also using a chainsaw nearby. Suddenly, a large limb fell directly on our client.The client sustained multiple compression fractures of the lumbar spine and a fractured left leg.He was transported from the scene of the accident and admitted to Akron City Hospital where he spent over two weeks and underwent a lumbar spinal fusion and open reduction/ internal fixation of his broken leg.Our client ultimately returned to his old job making the same wages and basically returned to his “normal” daily activities.A claim was brought under the homeowner’s insurance policy.The liability insurance carrier initially denied liability claiming there was no negligence on the part of the insured uncle.The insurance adjuster also raised legal defenses of assumption of risk and comparative negligence.

Our investigation revealed that the defendant had cut away smaller branches attached to a large limb which had previously snapped off and wedged in the fork of another tree with the upper portion of the large limb still attached precariously to the trunk of the tree approximately 20 feet off the ground directly above our client.We further claimed that the defendant breached his duty of care owed to our client realizing that it was reasonably foreseeable that cutting away the smaller branches would destabilize the large limb and cause it to fall on our client.Thus, through the active negligence of the owner of the property our client suffered serious personal injuries and damages.The insurance company still contested liability but ultimately agreed to settle the Ohio personal injury case for $225,000.We were able to persuade our client’s health insurance company to accept a 40% reduction on its subrogation lien for payment of medical bills.

http://pavicklaw.com/fallen-branchpersonal-injurypremise-liability/

These guys specialize in chainsaw accidents.

http://www.elitelawyerproject.com/blog/cheyenne-personal-injury-attorneys/

Maybe a general liability policy would cover the matter, but it might be worth reading it over beforehand.

I will agree that the likelihood of anything happening is slim, but the level of damages could be severe. If we were talking about $500 if I got sued over something, even if it wasn't my fault, I would be alright with taking the risk. Heck, now that I think about it, I would probably be alright with risking $10,000. Problem occurs when somebody is maimed for life or dies and the damages are in the $1,000,000 plus range.


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## n6crv

Pallet Pete said:


> Ammonia cleans chains ?


Sure and they smell good.


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## kenskip1

Butcher, I will sat this again."Just because you do not know something does not make you stupid"Unaware of something, true but not ignorant.You may be a hillbilly, but I am a "Piney". Has something to do with the mason Dixie line I think. See what I mean? I will make a bet that you have more common sense than many other around you.Take care my friend, Ken


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