# Kent tile fire



## Nbourque (Jan 16, 2019)

I have an older Kent stove that I’ve been using for the last 5 years. I’ve noticed an issue lately with the damper not opening and closing smoothly only when the stove is hot. I’ve read the previous threads on the issues with these but I’m wondering if the puck on the inside is indeed warped is it possible to just install a damper on the stove pipe? Or will this style of stove not run correctly with a generic style damper? Thanks.


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 16, 2019)

Nbourque said:


> I have an older Kent stove that I’ve been using for the last 5 years. I’ve noticed an issue lately with the damper not opening and closing smoothly only when the stove is hot. I’ve read the previous threads on the issues with these but I’m wondering if the puck on the inside is indeed warped is it possible to just install a damper on the stove pipe? Or will this style of stove not run correctly with a generic style damper? Thanks.


Can you stick your head in the stove, close the damper and have a look? The rod of the damper might be stuck. I have had this issue also with my Kent. Lubricating it with graphite powder helps in most cases.


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## Nbourque (Jan 16, 2019)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> Can you stick your head in the stove, close the damper and have a look? The rod of the damper might be stuck. I have had this issue also with my Kent. Lubricating it with graphite powder helps in most cases.


Take a look from the top of the stove where the pipe comes in or literally inside the stove?


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 16, 2019)

Inside. If it is warped, it will be from the bottom of the puck.


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## Nbourque (Jan 16, 2019)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> Inside. If it is warped, it will be from the bottom of the puck.


Ok I just looked. The puck completely covers the hole in the stove when damper is shut. What am I looking for?


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 16, 2019)

If the puck is not flat, but bend, it is a sign of warping. If not, you're okay and the rod is the culprit. Lubricate it with graphite powder. Available at Lowes and HD.


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## Nbourque (Jan 17, 2019)

The puck doesn’t look warped to me. Where exactly are you lubricating? Thanks for all the info.


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 17, 2019)

The puck is so solid, it won't get warped that easy. Pull the rod all the way out and lubricate the entire length with graphite powder. Push in and out a few times. Do this once every year.


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## Nbourque (Jan 17, 2019)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> The puck is so solid, it won't get warped that easy. Pull the rod all the way out and lubricate the entire length with graphite powder. Push in and out a few times. Do this once every year.


Oh that easy to lubricate huh? No need to take the stove pipe off? Thanks again.


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 17, 2019)

Nbourque said:


> Oh that easy to lubricate huh? No need to take the stove pipe off? Thanks again.


Nothing comes off, just pull the rod and start rubbing the rod.


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## Nbourque (Jan 22, 2019)

What is better the liquid or powdered graphite?


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 22, 2019)

Nbourque said:


> What is better the liquid or powdered graphite?


Powder.


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## Nbourque (Jan 22, 2019)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> Powder.


Hmmmm I bought the liquid. Tried it a couple times. Put some on the door latch that was hard to turn. Worked good for a day then it was back to being hard to turn. Maybe I’ll try the powder...


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 22, 2019)

Nbourque said:


> Hmmmm I bought the liquid. Tried it a couple times. Put some on the door latch that was hard to turn. Worked good for a day then it was back to being hard to turn. Maybe I’ll try the powder...


Powder will last a lot longer.


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## Nbourque (Jan 22, 2019)

So will this stove run just fine if I installed a damper in the stove pipe?


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 22, 2019)

Nbourque said:


> So will this stove run just fine if I installed a damper in the stove pipe?


Why would you do that? How tall is the chimney measured from stove top? That stove has a damper and unless you have extreme strong draft I don't think you need a second one. I should use the stove as it is designed.


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## Nbourque (Jan 22, 2019)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> Why would you do that? How tall is the chimney measured from stove top? That stove has a damper and unless you have extreme strong draft I don't think you need a second one. I should use the stove as it is designed.


I only ask because if the puck is indeed  warped I could install a damper on the stove pipe and not use the damper on the stove. I believe the puck is warped because it is becoming increasingly difficult to close the damper in when the stove is running hot. No issues with the damper when the stove is cooled down.


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 22, 2019)

I see, but after you checked you mentioned it wasn't warped? If you want to bypass the stove damper, I guess you need a pipe damper to avoid heat loss. It might be possible that the top of the damper is very dirty. If the chimney has been cleaned and the top of the damper has not been vacuumed, it will be difficult to close it. I would check that first. Disconnect the pipe from the stove and see if there is any debris on top and around the damper.


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## Nbourque (Jan 22, 2019)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> I see, but after you checked you mentioned it wasn't warped? If you want to bypass the stove damper, I guess you need a pipe damper to avoid heat loss.


It’s hard for me to tell if it’s warped or not. I would need a damper to control stove pipe temps. Can’t imagine running a stove with no damper?


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 22, 2019)

It is hard to imagine that the very solid steel damper is warped. IMO if your baffle is not warped, the damper won't be. The baffle goes first. My best guess is debris. You also can clean it by opening the damper and stick a vacuum hose into the whole and vacuum 360 for a few minutes. Most debris will be gone.


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## Nbourque (Jan 22, 2019)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> It is hard to imagine that the very solid steel damper is warped. IMO if your baffle is not warped, the damper won't be. The baffle goes first. My best guess is debris. You also can clean it by opening the damper and stick a vacuum hose into the whole and vacuum 360 for a few minutes. Most debris will be gone.


How can I tell if the baffle is warped?


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 22, 2019)

If it is crooked, cracked, out of shape.


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## Nbourque (Jan 22, 2019)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> If it is crooked, cracked, out of shape.


Is the baffle in front on top inside the stove? Mine seems loose...


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 22, 2019)

It is the chamber on the top of the firebox, with the drilled holes in it. A warped baffle looks like this.


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## Nbourque (Jan 22, 2019)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> It is the chamber on the top of the firebox, with the drilled holes in it. A warped baffle looks like this.
> View attachment 238897


Baffle doesn’t look cracked from what I can see. Maybe it does just need a good cleaning like u said but it doesn’t explain why the damper is hard to operate when stove is running hot. That would lead me to believe the puck is warped.


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 22, 2019)

Nbourque said:


> Baffle doesn’t look cracked from what I can see. Maybe it does just need a good cleaning like u said but it doesn’t explain why the damper is hard to operate when stove is running hot. That would lead me to believe the puck is warped.


All materials, including steel expand when getting hot. Start with the cleaning, then lubricate again. If all fails you can always bypass the stove damper using a pipe damper. Try not to modify stove if not necessary.


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## Nbourque (Jan 22, 2019)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> All materials, including steel expand when getting hot. Start with the cleaning, then lubricate again. If all fails you can always bypass the stove damper using a pipe damper. Try not to modify stove if not necessary.


Thanks for all your help. Also I have never really used the air control knob much on this Kent stove. Always leave it on full air and I use the damper to control the fire. Your thoughts?


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 22, 2019)

The damper should be closed after staring a burn. The air control is to control the fire. Start full open and reduce air intake when fire is going. With air always open you will over fire and destroy the stove. A few weeks ago I sent you the link to the manual. Have you read it?


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## Nbourque (Jan 22, 2019)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> The damper should be closed after staring a burn. The air control is to control the fire. Start full open and reduce air intake when fire is going. With air always open you will over fire and destroy the stove. A few weeks ago I sent you the link to the manual. Have you read it?


My stove pipe temp is always in the burn zone. I did not get the link to the manual.


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 22, 2019)

Nbourque said:


> My stove pipe temp is always in the burn zone. I did not get the link to the manual.


I will send it to you. Stay tuned.


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 22, 2019)

https://www.hearth.com/images/uploads/kentmansm.pdf


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## bholler (Jan 22, 2019)

Nbourque said:


> My stove pipe temp is always in the burn zone. I did not get the link to the manual.


Yes but where in the burn range and what are your stove temps?  The fact that you have to run the air wide open tells me you have weak draft or wet wood.  Can you describe your chimney setup?  And what moisture content is your wood at?


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## bholler (Jan 22, 2019)

And no a pipe damper will not perform the same function as the bypass damper


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## Nbourque (Jan 22, 2019)

bholler said:


> Yes but where in the burn range and what are your stove temps?  The fact that you have to run the air wide open tells me you have weak draft or wet wood.  Can you describe your chimney setup?  And what moisture content is your wood at?


Low to mid range in the burn zone for the most part. I will run it close to 500 upon initial startup. I don’t have to run the air wide open I have always just left it on full air and controlled the fire with the damper. My wood is right around 20 %


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## bholler (Jan 22, 2019)

Nbourque said:


> Low to mid range in the burn zone for the most part. I will run it close to 500 upon initial startup. I don’t have to run the air wide open I have always just left it on full air and controlled the fire with the damper. My wood is right around 20 %


That is not at all how the stove is intended to work.  That damper is a bypass.  It doesn't stop flow it redirects it.


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## Nbourque (Jan 22, 2019)

bholler said:


> And no a pipe damper will not perform the same function as the bypass damper


Please explain


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## bholler (Jan 22, 2019)

Nbourque said:


> Please explain


The damper in your stove if it is like all of the Kent's I work on is not blocking the exhaust it simply redirects the air through their secondary combustion chamber.  A damper in the pipe just restricts flow.


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## Nbourque (Jan 22, 2019)

bholler said:


> The damper in your stove if it is like all of the Kent's I work on is not blocking the exhaust it simply redirects the air through their secondary combustion chamber.  A damper in the pipe just restricts flow.


Pardon my ignorance but I believe the damper open and closes to allow air in from the chimney. No?


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## bholler (Jan 22, 2019)

Nbourque said:


> Pardon my ignorance but I believe the damper open and closes to allow air in from the chimney. No?


Not in the Kent's I work on.  And the manual clearly calls it a bypass damper.  Not to mention you say it blocks the whole opening when closed.  If that were the case and there was no other passage your house would fill with smoke


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 22, 2019)

In the center of the bypass damper is a hole drilled about 1/2-1 inch diameter. That will let the smoke through.


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## bholler (Jan 22, 2019)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> In the center of the bypass damper is a hole drilled about 1/2-1 inch diameter. That will let the smoke through.


Ok but doesn't it redirect the exhaust through their combustion chamber when closed?


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 22, 2019)

bholler said:


> Ok but doesn't it redirect the exhaust through their combustion chamber when closed?


If I recall correctly, the damper is above the chamber. So, yes.


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## bholler (Jan 22, 2019)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> If I recall correctly, the damper is above the chamber. So, yes.


I really thought it was a bypass but I could be wrong I haven't worked on one in a while.  But if it is just a flue damper why do they call it a bypass?


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 22, 2019)

You got me there, no idea.


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## Nbourque (Jan 22, 2019)

It looks like I can control the fire quite a bit with the damper fully open and just using the air control.


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 22, 2019)

Nbourque said:


> It looks like I can control the fire quite a bit with the damper fully open and just using the air control.


The damper should be closed.


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## bholler (Jan 22, 2019)

Nbourque said:


> It looks like I can control the fire quite a bit with the damper fully open and just using the air control.


Yes that is what the air control is for.  But the damper is meant to be closed once up to temp.


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## Nbourque (Jan 22, 2019)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> The damper should be closed.


I understand that but for now I can at least control the fire without the damper getting stuck. I will clean and inspect stove tomorrow when it cools down.


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## Nbourque (Jan 22, 2019)

bholler said:


> Yes that is what the air control is for.  But the damper is meant to be closed once up to temp.


Is this for a more efficient burn?


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 22, 2019)

Nbourque said:


> Is this for a more efficient burn?


With the damper open, your heat goes up in the chimney. Waste of fuel.


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## Nbourque (Jan 22, 2019)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> With the damper open, your heat goes up in the chimney. Waste of fuel.


True but this also produces the most heat at times.


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 22, 2019)

Nbourque said:


> True but this also produces the most heat at times.


It will require a lot of unnecessary reloads.


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## Nbourque (Jan 22, 2019)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> It will require a lot of unnecessary reloads.


So a damper of some sort is necessary with this stove?


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 22, 2019)

Nbourque said:


> So a damper of some sort is necessary with this stove?


The stove is designed with the bypass damper, so yes. Typically a pipe damper is used for extreme draft situations.


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## bholler (Jan 22, 2019)

Nbourque said:


> So a damper of some sort is necessary with this stove?


Yes they would not have designed one into the stove if it was not.  The manual is pretty clear on it as well


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 22, 2019)

I suggest to clean the bypass area first, lubricate and see what happens. The bypass damper is a solid piece of steel 5.5 inch in diameter and almost an inch thick. To get that warped you need to throw a grenade to it.


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## Nbourque (Jan 22, 2019)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> The stove is designed with the bypass damper, so yes. Typically a pipe damper is used for extreme draft situations.


Ok so what I’m getting at is if the damper puck is indeed warped is my stove completely done or can I get away with installing a pipe damper? Would hate to get rid of this stove mid season.


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 22, 2019)

If your secondary combustion chamber is not warped, your damper won't be either.


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## bholler (Jan 22, 2019)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> I suggest to clean the bypass area first, lubricate and see what happens. The bypass damper is a solid piece of steel 5.5 inch in diameter and almost an inch thick. To get that warped you need to throw a grenade to it.


Or be trying to control the stove with it by running it partially closed which would heat it unevenly.  I don't know if it is warped or not but running the stove the way he was would do it if anything was going to.


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## bholler (Jan 22, 2019)

Nbourque said:


> Ok so what I’m getting at is if the damper puck is indeed warped is my stove completely done or can I get away with installing a pipe damper? Would hate to get rid of this stove mid season.


It would not operate as designed with out the built in damper.  You could probably get through with one but it wouldn't work right.


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## Nbourque (Jan 22, 2019)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> If your secondary combustion chamber is not warped, your damper won't be either.


I shall see tomorrow. Thanks for all the info.


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## Nbourque (Jan 23, 2019)

Nbourque said:


> I shall see tomorrow. Thanks for all the info.


So it looks like baffle is indeed warped. The damper puck gets stuck while it slides over the top of the baffle. Looks like I’ll be installing a pipe damper.


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 23, 2019)

Nbourque said:


> So it looks like baffle is indeed warped. The damper puck gets stuck while it slides over the top of the baffle. Looks like I’ll be installing a pipe damper.


Can you post a few pictures?


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## Nbourque (Jan 23, 2019)

It’s hard to see but to the left in the pic the baffle is warped upwards so when the puck slides towards front of stove it comes into contact with baffle.


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 23, 2019)

Yep, been over heated. Unfortunately, the rod on the damper is also the door lock. If you won't use the damper, you need to be careful not to over fire the stove. How does the combustion chamber look like from the front and bottom?


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## Nbourque (Jan 23, 2019)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> Yep, been over heated. Unfortunately, the rod on the damper is also the door lock. If you won't use the damper, you need to be careful not to over fire the stove. How does the combustion chamber look like from the front and bottom?


Looks fine from what I can tell


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## Nbourque (Jan 23, 2019)




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## Jan Pijpelink (Jan 23, 2019)

Not too bad. But that crack in the back will get worse soon. Keep the fire low and slow, meaning no over fire.


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## bholler (Jan 23, 2019)

I think it is time to start looking for a new stove.  And this time read and follow the manual so you don't damage it as well


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## orb1talnz (Nov 7, 2019)

hi there your haveing problems with damper is that the air wash system or the by pass ?


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