# Allnighter install



## mzadrick (Nov 30, 2014)

Good morning all,

I just wanted to take a minute to post some pictures of my mid moe install with about 27 ft out metal-fav 6" double wall stainless pipe. It came out pretty good, did a 9" core through the foundation. I have a great draft without any issues. I do have one question about my wood issue. It is hickory, split small and seasoned. I noticed that, when I get the pipe low on temperature around 300-350, I start to get drops that come out of the chimney cap that smell like damp burned wood. Is that liquid creosote or the steam turning to condensation at the top of the chimney? Just looking for some ideas...

Thanks,

-Mike


----------



## Wildo (Nov 30, 2014)

Sounds like the temp at the top is below the threshold temp of 250f to keep moisture and particulates in a suspended state until they leave the chimney.  Why did you install it exterior as opposed to interior?  For simplicity of install? or another reason( joists or walls in the way)?


----------



## mzadrick (Nov 30, 2014)

Ok thanks for the information. The install of the double wall pipe? I have a chimney on the opposite side of my house with 2 flues. One for the furnace and one for the fireplace. I didn't want to install the stove in the finished part of the house because of the mess. I wanted to isolate all the mess of the stove to the unfinished side of the basement. I keep my basement staircase door open and I can keep my 1500 sq foot cape to roughly around 72 degrees. The oil furnace doesn't run anymore these days just for the hot water of course.


----------



## Wildo (Nov 30, 2014)

I meant running the chimney up thru the house for the extra heat and the higher temps in the pipes.  I assumed you didn't want to start cutting thru floors, ceilings and the roof.  As long as the oil guy misses you and you don't miss him all is well!


----------



## mzadrick (Nov 30, 2014)

Wildo said:


> I meant running the chimney up thru the house for the extra heat and the higher temps in the pipes.  I assumed you didn't want to start cutting thru floors, ceilings and the roof.  As long as the oil guy misses you and you don't miss him all is well!



Yes wildo exactly,

I didn't want to start cutting the floors and the roof. It would of definitely been the most efficient way for an install though!


----------



## begreen (Nov 30, 2014)

If you insulate the unfinished basement walls you could end up seeing 30+% more heat from the stove. That means a third less wood burned.


----------



## mzadrick (Dec 1, 2014)

Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate all the feedback. One of my friends was telling me that I have to get a stove pipe adapter and run that into the rear flue outlet on the back of the stove. I took a 6" single wall 90 degree fitting and inserted the non crimped side over it thinking that this was the correct method for install? He said that it should of been installed with an adapter, then the crimped side into the adapter and so on... Has anyone else run into the same issue? Here is the link to the adapter that my friend is talking about http://www.northlineexpress.com/6-durablack-double-skirted-stovetop-adapter-6dbk-addb-5703.html

Thanks!


----------



## begreen (Dec 1, 2014)

The fitting should fit inside the flue collar. That will help direct and contain any creosote drips back into the stove. Likewise all crimped pipe ends should point toward the stove.


----------



## mzadrick (Dec 2, 2014)

begreen said:


> The fitting should fit inside the flue collar. That will help direct and contain any creosote drips back into the stove. Likewise all crimped pipe ends should point toward the stove.



Ok great thank you for the help. I ordered the adapter off of northline express this morning. Hopefully that will be the trick


----------



## mzadrick (Dec 2, 2014)

Another question I have is about the pipe damper? Some people I have talked to say it's a good idea to keep it while others say that with air tight stoves they are not needed and only use the air controls on the stove? Any thoughts???


----------



## begreen (Dec 2, 2014)

I like to have a stack damper on old stoves. The chimney is tall enough to warrant one. Leave it open on startup but close it down once the burn is going strong. In theory this should stop excess heat heading up the flue and should make the stove regulation more precise.


----------



## mzadrick (Dec 3, 2014)

begreen said:


> I like to have a stack damper on old stoves. The chimney is tall enough to warrant one. Leave it open on startup but close it down once the burn is going strong. In theory this should stop excess heat heading up the flue and should make the stove regulation more precise.



It now works perfect, got it going hot then running it with the air vents open at about a 1/4 length and the damper about 75 degrees at the pipe thermometer before the damper is about 500 with no smoke. Thank you again for all the help, I still am very new at burning wood but with all the information on this he site it has really made it very enjoyable!


----------



## dinofire (Jan 6, 2015)

mzadrick said:


> It now works perfect, got it going hot then running it with the air vents open at about a 1/4 length and the damper about 75 degrees at the pipe thermometer before the damper is about 500 with no smoke. Thank you again for all the help, I still am very new at burning wood but with all the information on this he site it has really made it very enjoyable!





mzadrick said:


> Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate all the feedback. One of my friends was telling me that I have to get a stove pipe adapter and run that into the rear flue outlet on the back of the stove. I took a 6" single wall 90 degree fitting and inserted the non crimped side over it thinking that this was the correct method for install? He said that it should of been installed with an adapter, then the crimped side into the adapter and so on... Has anyone else run into the same issue? Here is the link to the adapter that my friend is talking about http://www.northlineexpress.com/6-durablack-double-skirted-stovetop-adapter-6dbk-addb-5703.html
> 
> Thanks!



Hello and thank you for the info. I have the same stove. I found that the crimped end of the stove pipe would not fit inside the flue outlet and was hoping to find an adapter to make it work.....Did the adapter work well for you?


----------



## coaly (Jan 6, 2015)

Over-crimp with hand crimper. Many older stoves used 6 inch OD instead of 6 inch ID. So the wall thickness can make it up to 1/2 inch smaller inside.


----------

