# Econoburn 150 cleaning tips



## jashcroft (May 19, 2010)

I just finished my first year of burning with my Econoburn 150.  Now it's time to clean it.  I watched the video and read the manual on cleaning, but I was wondering if any of you that have done it before have any tips from your experience.

Thanks


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## willworkforwood (May 20, 2010)

I didn't get a video with mine, so this is stuff you may already know. Slice large sections of the outer jacket and insulation with a sharp utility knife, and remove them taking care not to disturb the mineral wool insulation. If you do this carefully the insulation will remain completely attached to the outer jacket. If more than a small amount breaks off, you will need to buy replacement (or Dale would probably send you a small replacement quantity). And, watch out for the controller wires - they float around loose on top of the insulation. You want to remove enough sections of insulation be able to see both the top and back plates plus around 1/2 extra on all sides. When you remove the top plate, make sure the fiberglass gasket is not attached and coming along with it. Back plate has no gasket, and no special care is required. Once the plates are off, they talk about removing all of the turbs in one unit. Houdini might have done it, but I had to remove all of the bolts first and take it out in pieces. Now the key part is how clean the tubes are. If you burned well-seasoned wood (20% and less) all year, there should be no creosote in the tubes, and you can just brush out the loose ash buildup and then pack up.  If the turbs rattle inside of the tubes and come out easily, that's a real good sign. If you are in doubt about creosote in the tubes, build a small 2 1/8" probe on a wire that can test all the way down. If you have creosote, we can talk again :sick: . Finally, to botton up, you'll need ASJ tape to reseal the insulation. You can get a large roll of it for around $12.00.  Good luck!


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## wantstoburnwood (May 20, 2010)

What size brush do they recommend ? I did my boiler last year and havent even looked at it this year yet. The turbs were very hard to get out in one piece as you said. Much drier wood this year so the tubes should be cleaner


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## greg in MN (May 20, 2010)

Where did you get the video? I did not get one with my 150.


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## jashcroft (May 20, 2010)

greg in MN said:
			
		

> Where did you get the video? I did not get one with my 150.



My dealer gave me the video when I purchased my unit.  The video shows taking out one turbulator at a time, not all at once.


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## jashcroft (May 20, 2010)

willworkforwood said:
			
		

> I didn't get a video with mine, so this is stuff you may already know. Slice large sections of the outer jacket and insulation with a sharp utility knife, and remove them taking care not to disturb the mineral wool insulation. If you do this carefully the insulation will remain completely attached to the outer jacket. If more than a small amount breaks off, you will need to buy replacement (or Dale would probably send you a small replacement quantity). And, watch out for the controller wires - they float around loose on top of the insulation. You want to remove enough sections of insulation be able to see both the top and back plates plus around 1/2 extra on all sides. When you remove the top plate, make sure the fiberglass gasket is not attached and coming along with it. Back plate has no gasket, and no special care is required. Once the plates are off, they talk about removing all of the turbs in one unit. Houdini might have done it, but I had to remove all of the bolts first and take it out in pieces. Now the key part is how clean the tubes are. If you burned well-seasoned wood (20% and less) all year, there should be no creosote in the tubes, and you can just brush out the loose ash buildup and then pack up.  If the turbs rattle inside of the tubes and come out easily, that's a real good sign. If you are in doubt about creosote in the tubes, build a small 2 1/8" probe on a wire that can test all the way down. If you have creosote, we can talk again :sick: . Finally, to botton up, you'll need ASJ tape to reseal the insulation. You can get a large roll of it for around $12.00.  Good luck!



Thanks for all the info you provided!  The video makes cleaning look very easy, but I know there has to be more to it once the plates are removed.  Nothing like the value of experience!  Thanks again.


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## pybyr (May 20, 2010)

Agreed with all of the above advice, and here are some other tips from my experience so far [I don't yet have a video either- it must be something that came with boilers after mine)-

Make sure you have a tube of high temperature silicone o to re-seal the back plate as you re-install it (you should have received a tube of it with your boiler, but you'll want to make sure you have it on hand).

If you really want to do a "deep clean" on the firetubes, get a round wire wheel like this 

http://power-tools.hardwarestore.com/54-360-wire-wheel-brushes/crimp-wire-wheel-brush-643177.aspx

and a clamp like this

http://fasteners.hardwarestore.com/16-64-rope-hooks-cleats/wire-rope-clips-525405.aspx

and a piece of round steel rod 1/4 inch in diameter and about 3 feet long.

The clamp won't let you attach the brush to the rod in a perfectly concentric way, but the wobble won't matter.

You can now use this with an electric drill to really clean out the fire tubes.

DO wear a dust mask (strongly recommended for the whole cleaning).

In my case, I also stuffed a shop vac hose into one of the other firetubes next to the one I was roto-brushing, so as to cause the dust to be pulled down in-- this really minimized having the dust exit.

I was able to get the firetubes really clean this way- I'd had to use some not-so-well seasoned wood my first winter, and so, after that, really wanted to remove any build-up that might detract from heat transfer.  

Finally, be sure to expect any flue pipe/ chimneys with any horizontal or diagonal surfaces for accumulation of fine fly ash- after my first winter, I found (as expected) no creosote, but a substantial accumulation of very fine grey dust on the inner lower invert of the run of my flue pipe from boiler to chimney.


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## jashcroft (May 20, 2010)

Thanks for all the great tips/advice!  That's why I love this site.  Nothing takes the place of collective experience.


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## WoodChoppa (May 21, 2010)

I would sincerely hope that Econoburn is working dilligently to remedy this process.  Have any of the Euro boiler Mfg. figured out to clean their tubes without all this hassle?


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## sdrobertson (May 21, 2010)

WoodChoppa said:
			
		

> I would sincerely hope that Econoburn is working dilligently to remedy this process.  Have any of the Euro boiler Mfg. figured out to clean their tubes without all this hassle?



All of my problems with cleaning the boiler has come directly from not burning dry enough wood.  If the wood is the proper moisture level then it shouldn't be that much of a hassle.  The difference is between removing fly ash or sticky creosote.  Creosote is a pain and requires allot more scrubbing and tearing down the boiler allot more often.  Keep in mind that even oil burners need to be cleaned once in a while, but any wood boiler will require more.


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## willworkforwood (May 22, 2010)

One thing to add to the last 2 posts, relative to the Econoburn.  First, I agree completely with SDR about MC of the wood being the key to preventing boiler tube problems.  In my first year, I wanted to keep burning, and used wood with a MC too high.  I paid the price with a nightmarish tube creosote cleanup job - lesson learned the hard way!  So, for WoodChoppa's question about a remedy, the only answer is burn dry wood.  As SDR said, once creosote forms, it's a bear to get off.  But that being said, there are lots of differences between various boilers, and one difference in the Econoburn is that the tube cleaning process is more difficult than with some of the other makes.  Unless you have hands the size of a 2-year old, removing the top plate alone doesn't allow enough room to work the turbulator linkage bolts off, which is required in order to remove the turbs.  And, without the turbs out, you can't find out if there is any creosote collecting on the tube walls.  In order to clean tubes in an EB, you need to remove both the top and back plates.  This also requires removing at least part of the flue where it connects to the boiler, along with a bunch of insulation - not a quick job.   I know from reading other threads that Tarms have full access from the top plate - don't know about other makes.  This is a design flaw in the EB - I'm planning on experimenting this Summer to see if the turb linkage can be modified to allow removal from the top, because it would be nice to be able to take a quick look every so often.  But at the same time, I don't consider this a big deal - I'm really happy with this boiler, and have no complaints.  The turbs are levered via a handle, which is used to dislodge the fly ash inside the tubes - works great. 
I didn't disassemble during the burning season, but feel there will be no creosote when I clean it in the Summer.  Bottom line with any of these gassers is burn dry wood and the tubes will be fine.


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## Piker (May 22, 2010)

Moisture content is not the only variable in creosote production...  wood at 15% moisture content can produce copious amounts of creosote as well if the boiler is left to idle for extended periods of time... although high moisture content is likely to result in incomplete combustion, which will produce creosote even when the boiler isn't idling.  

To answer an earlier question... a few of the European gasifiers have much more accessible heat exchangers than the econoburn.  The Scandtec Solo Plus (formerly the Tarm Solo Plus) doesn't even use turbulators unless it's installed with heat storage.  To make up for the loss in thermal efficiency due to omitting the turbs, they simply install more tubes, resulting in over 2 times the surface area.  At the point when you install heat storage, simply drop a set of turbs in and you should be good to go.  The top jacket cover on these boilers is recessed into a pocket on top... no screws... and the cover over the tubes is held down with 4 wing nuts.  In less than a minute you can access the heat exchanger. They were designed around the fact that to stay efficient, they need to be cleaned regularly... and if they need to stay clean, then cleaning needs to be as painless as possible.  

The turbs on the shaker mechanism is nice... but it's no replacement for a good cleaning.

cheers


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## WoodChoppa (May 23, 2010)

It sounds like Tarm has it right.  Assuming there is no creosote build up but not being able to verify without a tear down is a design flaw IMHO.  I hope somebody from Econoburn is reading this thread and pipes in to tell us they are pursuing a design improvement and will roll it out with next years model.


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## wantstoburnwood (Jun 13, 2010)

I just cleaned my econoburn 150 this morning. Wow was it easier than last year. I think more experience with wood quanities and much drier wood. I have no heat storage so I watch that there isn't much idling. But most of all dry wood gives off better, faster, cleaner heat . The turbulators slipped right out this year.


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## b33p3r (Jun 17, 2010)

Wamtstoburnwood,
                                I'm also considering running an econoburn with no heat storage. Could you give me some insight to burn times, wood usage etc etc? If you prefer emailing me that would be fine so I don't alter the subject here.


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## wantstoburnwood (Jun 17, 2010)

Sure thing B. Can you email me with your address and I would more than happy to talk Econoburn stuff


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## Smurfberry (Sep 17, 2010)

I went with the wire wheel plan and it works great.  I burn a lot of old wood, have no storage, stove is over sized, and have long periods of idle.  So you can bet I have my share of sticky creosote.  I bought an extension for the wire wheel and cleaning is very fast.  My biggest hang up was I never got a manual with my stove so I didn't know the top came off.  I haven't cleaned my stove yet this year, but I'm getting ready to, and you can bet I'm going out the top instead of flexing and twisting the turbulators.

My question is has anyone replaced the gaskets in their door yet?  I can't get the gasket out of the bottom of the door.  Any tips?


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## NNYorker (Sep 17, 2010)

See here    https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/49582/    Use a big screwdriver, wire brush, scraper, ...... Call Dale @ Econoburn - you'll get a manual.


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## Piker (Sep 17, 2010)

Smurfberry said:
			
		

> I went with the wire wheel plan and it works great.  I burn a lot of old wood, have no storage, stove is over sized, and have long periods of idle.  So you can bet I have my share of sticky creosote.  I bought an extension for the wire wheel and cleaning is very fast.  My biggest hang up was I never got a manual with my stove so I didn't know the top came off.  I haven't cleaned my stove yet this year, but I'm getting ready to, and you can bet I'm going out the top instead of flexing and twisting the turbulators.
> 
> My question is has anyone replaced the gaskets in their door yet?  I can't get the gasket out of the bottom of the door.  Any tips?



I am curious to know what kind of wire wheel you used...  I have yet to see a wire brush or wire wheel that would touch the sticky creosote inside the tubes that can develop on a boiler left to idle for extended periods of time.  Even the flaky variety of creosote doesn't seem to come off except with a scraper tool of some sort.  Mostly a brush or wheel just seems to shine up the gunk stuck to the walls of the tube.  

A brush works very well on a boiler that has been burning clean... ie thermal storage or not oversized too terribly.

just curious.  If there's something out there that works better than a scraper of some sort, lots of people would love to hear about it.

cheers.


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## willworkforwood (Sep 17, 2010)

Piker said:
			
		

> Smurfberry said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



+1
And I also had no luck with any kind of drill-driven cutter either.  Chips would come off, but lots of the miserable stuff remained stuck in place.  That stuff was as tough as PC 7, and the only thing that finally worked for me was an ash/water mix along with lots of elbow grease   .  This method is not fast, but it did eventually get the tubes completely clean.  And it's also not obvious that there are still creosote patches remaining, even after lots of scrubbing.  I only found them by sending down a test probe - a cylinder that's slightly smaller than the diameter, and just barely slides down a clean tube.  It hangs up on any small ridge of creosote, and only when it makes it all the way to the bottom is the job done.
Smurfberry, when you pulled the turbs out the back instead of the top, did they end up looking like pretzels ?


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## sdrobertson (Sep 18, 2010)

[quote author="Piker" date="1284702935
I am curious to know what kind of wire wheel you used...  I have yet to see a wire brush or wire wheel that would touch the sticky creosote inside the tubes that can develop on a boiler left to idle for extended periods of time.  Even the flaky variety of creosote doesn't seem to come off except with a scraper tool of some sort.  Mostly a brush or wheel just seems to shine up the gunk stuck to the walls of the tube.  

A brush works very well on a boiler that has been burning clean... ie thermal storage or not oversized too terribly.

just curious.  If there's something out there that works better than a scraper of some sort, lots of people would love to hear about it.

cheers.[/quote]

I'm at work so I can't post a photo but I made a tool that works really well.  What I did was take the largest wood spade bit I could find (1 1/4" if I remember right) and then had a 2 inch washer welded on the spade part.  I then took a grinder and just touched the sides to make it just fit in the tubes.  The washer is rounded so it flows down the tubes nicely and scrapes all the hard gunk off but it does wobble some so you have to hang onto the drill.  I then run the brush down to get the tubes back to just metal.


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## Mauler (Mar 17, 2014)

first time cleaning econoburn (my 2nd season) as I didn't do it last year. Econoburn sent some info on boiler brushes and I'll probably get those but was wondering also about the spiral blade scraper shown here
http://www.mcmaster.com/#tube-scrapers/=r4wo7t

I'm sure I will have some tough creosote in the tubes, and want to try and plan ahead for when I open the boiler up.

thoughts?


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## goosegunner (Mar 17, 2014)

Mauler said:


> first time cleaning econoburn (my 2nd season) as I didn't do it last year. Econoburn sent some info on boiler brushes and I'll probably get those but was wondering also about the spiral blade scraper shown here
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#tube-scrapers/=r4wo7t
> 
> I'm sure I will have some tough creosote in the tubes, and want to try and plan ahead for when I open the boiler up.
> ...




I bought the brushes they recommend and they are a little small. They also do not remove crusted ash very well. I bought 1 see bigger and that will go down but you can't pull it back up without pushing it out the bottom of the fire tube.

I will be building a scraper this week, but I like the look of the one you posted. I posted a few weeks ago the same style but apparently no one has tried them.

gg


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## goosegunner (Mar 17, 2014)

Mauler said:


> first time cleaning econoburn (my 2nd season) as I didn't do it last year. Econoburn sent some info on boiler brushes and I'll probably get those but was wondering also about the spiral blade scraper shown here
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#tube-scrapers/=r4wo7t
> 
> I'm sure I will have some tough creosote in the tubes, and want to try and plan ahead for when I open the boiler up.
> ...




Two years is a long time, I can watch my performance drop if I go more than a month. Good luck, If the back plate is not leaking you do not have to remove it. I do top cover only, Next cleaning the two linkage bolts I remove will be replace with clevis pins. Hopefully that will work and make turbulator removal much faster in the future.

gg


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## Mauler (Mar 18, 2014)

goosegunner said:


> Two years is a long time, I can watch my performance drop if I go more than a month. Good luck, If the back plate is not leaking you do not have to remove it. I do top cover only, Next cleaning the two linkage bolts I remove will be replace with clevis pins. Hopefully that will work and make turbulator removal much faster in the future.
> 
> gg




yeah, no excuse. I have the outdoor version so I have to remove the entire back of the skin, the entire flue, before I even get to the boiler. From the looks of things I think ill have to remove the roof also if I need a 3 foot brush rod to clean them out. Definitely a pain. Good tip about the clevis pins, I hear the bolts can be slow to access/remove.

But back to scraper, from what I read here, I fully expect that a scraper is the only way to go, yet nobody here has bought one? I'd be interested in your scraper build, but it likely involves welding and I haven't learned about welding yet.

also you say the 2" brush was too small so I want to clarify the tube size on the econoburn. Is it 2 inches?


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## goosegunner (Mar 18, 2014)

Mauler said:


> yeah, no excuse. I have the outdoor version so I have to remove the entire back of the skin, the entire flue, before I even get to the boiler. From the looks of things I think ill have to remove the roof also if I need a 3 foot brush rod to clean them out. Definitely a pain. Good tip about the clevis pins, I hear the bolts can be slow to access/remove.
> 
> But back to scraper, from what I read here, I fully expect that a scraper is the only way to go, yet nobody here has bought one? I'd be interested in your scraper build, but it likely involves welding and I haven't learned about welding yet.
> 
> also you say the 2" brush was too small so I want to clarify the tube size on the econoburn. Is it 2 inches?




I will check my brushes.

I would see if you can do it with a roof removal. With the indoor they show removal of the flue and back plate. I have found that if the seal is not leaking you don't have to remove it. I tie the turbulator handle in the up position. With a 9/16 wrench and socket you can then remove 2 bolts for the turbulator linkage, put handle in the down position and pull the turbulator assembly out.

The clevis pins should make it even easier because I won't have to use wrenches to get them out. Just 2 nuts on the top cover.

gg


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## Mauler (Mar 18, 2014)

goosegunner said:


> I will check my brushes.
> 
> I would see if you can do it with a roof removal. With the indoor they show removal of the flue and back plate. I have found that if the seal is not leaking you don't have to remove it. I tie the turbulator handle in the up position. With a 9/16 wrench and socket you can then remove 2 bolts for the turbulator linkage, put handle in the down position and pull the turbulator assembly out.
> 
> ...



when you say "if the seal is not leaking" you mean leaking smoke right? I can't tell anyway because I have the outdoor version with outer skin on so I can't see any smoke....assuming no leak is it otherwise worth removing that back plate to do more cleaning or is really just the tubes and surrounding area in the top plate. I ask because I recall seeing a thread here on someone rehabbed a used econoburn and removed both plates for cleaning (I think). Thanks for checking your brushes.


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## maple1 (Mar 18, 2014)

Sounds like a fair amount of work?


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## goosegunner (Mar 18, 2014)

Mauler said:


> when you say "if the seal is not leaking" you mean leaking smoke right? I can't tell anyway because I have the outdoor version with outer skin on so I can't see any smoke....assuming no leak is it otherwise worth removing that back plate to do more cleaning or is really just the tubes and surrounding area in the top plate. I ask because I recall seeing a thread here on someone rehabbed a used econoburn and removed both plates for cleaning (I think). Thanks for checking your brushes.




The back plate really should not leak, it is held on with a lot of bolts.  The areas that need to be cleaned to keep efficiency the best would be the fire tubes and the area around the top of the tubes, a lot of ash piles up there. The back plate does not transfer heat to the water.

I have a 2" brush that says it is for 2-1/4" flue. to really scrub the tube you have to put pressure on the side of the metal rod when it is turning in a drill.

The 2-1/4" brush is too big to turn with a drill or change directions in the tube not much but it can be stubborn to remove with the brush that is just undersized a little.

I very rarely idle the boiler, I run flat out to storage and do weighed wood burns. I mostly have just ash. Sometimes it gets a little crust build up in the tu

gg


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## goosegunner (Mar 18, 2014)

maple1 said:


> Sounds like a fair amount of work?



It can be until you figure out the best method. The good thing is there is no restriction on burning oak .

gg


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## Mauler (Mar 18, 2014)

goosegunner said:


> The back plate really should not leak, it is held on with a lot of bolts.  The areas that need to be cleaned to keep efficiency the best would be the fire tubes and the area around the top of the tubes, a lot of ash piles up there. The back plate does not transfer heat to the water.
> 
> I have a 2" brush that says it is for 2-1/4" flue. to really scrub the tube you have to put pressure on the side of the metal rod when it is turning in a drill.
> 
> ...



McMaster-Carr also has other brushes, stiff wire, etc. The one econoburn suggested seemed to be the less rigid wire type, I'm thinking the stiffer wire or some of the hard scraper types may be better. Trying not to waste money buying brushes that aren't up to the job.


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## goosegunner (Mar 18, 2014)

Mauler said:


> McMaster-Carr also has other brushes, stiff wire, etc. The one econoburn suggested seemed to be the less rigid wire type, I'm thinking the stiffer wire or some of the hard scraper types may be better. Trying not to waste money buying brushes that aren't up to the job.



The scraper one looks like it would work, but it is pricey. It looks like it might be able to be tightened to increase its width.  I will measure tube at my next cleaning.

gg


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## salecker (Mar 18, 2014)

Hi Mauler
 I have the outdoor unit as well,mine is a 200.All you need to take off is the roof,it should lift right off.\then just take off the top plate that is held on by 2 nuts.You can pull the turbulators out in one piece on mine.If my tubes are dirty i have to lift the unit out with a pry bar and link.I use the lifting eye as a fulcrum to apply the leverage to get them out of the dirty tubes.I do one side at a time it makes it easier to get past the little odds and ends that get hung up.
 The first time will be a groan because you haven't done it before.If you can get someone to help it makes it go a lot faster because they can keep the odds and ends form getting hung up.I will change the bolts to clevis pins next cleaning.I trimmed a couple of other bolts while i had it apart so they wouldn't catch as easy.
 The last time i cleaned mine no brush would have touched it.It took a good 20 min each tube with the scrapper i made to get them completely clean so i could see the welds in the tubes from top to bottom.I put a light at the bottom of the tubes to see what i'm doing.
 Have fun,just remember it will be more efficient when you are finished.
Thomas


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## maple1 (Mar 19, 2014)

goosegunner said:


> It can be until you figure out the best method. The good thing is there is no restriction on burning oak .
> 
> gg


 
I'll give you a 'touche' on that one (don't know how to get the little accent thingie over the 'e') - although I'd think likely whatever oak might do to one boiler it might do to another. There's none around here to burn though - so didn't ever think much more about it than that.


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## Mauler (Mar 20, 2014)

salecker said:


> Hi Mauler
> I have the outdoor unit as well,mine is a 200.All you need to take off is the roof,it should lift right off.\then just take off the top plate that is held on by 2 nuts.You can pull the turbulators out in one piece on mine.If my tubes are dirty i have to lift the unit out with a pry bar and link.I use the lifting eye as a fulcrum to apply the leverage to get them out of the dirty tubes.I do one side at a time it makes it easier to get past the little odds and ends that get hung up.
> The first time will be a groan because you haven't done it before.If you can get someone to help it makes it go a lot faster because they can keep the odds and ends form getting hung up.I will change the bolts to clevis pins next cleaning.I trimmed a couple of other bolts while i had it apart so they wouldn't catch as easy.
> The last time i cleaned mine no brush would have touched it.It took a good 20 min each tube with the scrapper i made to get them completely clean so i could see the welds in the tubes from top to bottom.I put a light at the bottom of the tubes to see what i'm doing.
> ...



thanks salecker, interesting that you only take the roof off and not the back wall or flue. I guess you might have to reach down a bit from a ladder to free up the top plate and turbs. Are the guy who made a scraper out of a washer? Sounds like a neat idea but I don't weld. Not sure if the tubes are the same size on mine I have the 150. Are you putting the light at the bottom of the tubes in the lower chamber? any thoughts on that spiral scraper I posted above? I assume I will be heavily encrusted with creosote.


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## salecker (Mar 20, 2014)

I made a scraper out of some heavy duty banding.No welder required.
Search my threads,there are a few pic's of it.I was looking at mine yesterday and it looks like you will have to unscrew the roof.


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## NCFord (Mar 21, 2014)

Anyone have some pics of where to cut the insulation for the cleaning?  I will be cleaning my 100 for the first time in the next couple of weeks and know I will have make some cuts.


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## Mauler (Mar 21, 2014)

salecker said:


> I made a scraper out of some heavy duty banding.No welder required.
> Search my threads,there are a few pic's of it.I was looking at mine yesterday and it looks like you will have to unscrew the roof.


 
found the thread, looks good. I will do the same thanks.


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## b33p3r (Mar 21, 2014)

Wow, I didn't know there was a back plate to remove. How sad is that? I have the 150. I unbolt the turbs  through the flue. I cut a panel in the outer skin around the turb handle. I remove that panel then the 4 bolts that mount the turb rod and handle to side of boiler Once the turbs are unbolted I slide handle and turb rod out of boiler. Then it is easy to remove turbs. also wide open to clean tubes. I never got any cleaning video either so I just winged it. I'll have to look into removing the back panel. Might save on some scraped knuckles.


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## goosegunner (Mar 21, 2014)

b33p3r said:


> Wow, I didn't know there was a back plate to remove. How sad is that? I have the 150. I unbolt the turbs  through the flue. I cut a panel in the outer skin around the turb handle. I remove that panel then the 4 bolts that mount the turb rod and handle to side of boiler Once the turbs are unbolted I slide handle and turb rod out of boiler. Then it is easy to remove turbs. also wide open to clean tubes. I never got any cleaning video either so I just winged it. I'll have to look into removing the back panel. Might save on some scraped knuckles.




Don't do it! Put the turbulator handle in the all the way up position and tie it there.  From the top cover you can remove the top two linkage bolts. The the turbulator linkage, bar, and turbulators can all be removed as one. The rod and handle do not have to be removed.

gg


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## b33p3r (Apr 8, 2014)

goosegunner said:


> Don't do it! Put the turbulator handle in the all the way up position and tie it there.  From the top cover you can remove the top two linkage bolts. The the turbulator linkage, bar, and turbulators can all be removed as one. The rod and handle do not have to be removed.
> 
> gg


Goose, I'll give that a try. I'll leave the back plate alone since I never disturbed it yet. I know it was tough removing the turbs the first year I cleaned it and that's why I made a side panel that allowed me to remove the handle and rod which made things so much easier. I'll give your way a shot this year before pulling the handle/rod and see how it goes but I'm pretty confident I tried pulling with the handle in all positions???


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## goosegunner (Apr 8, 2014)

b33p3r said:


> Goose, I'll give that a try. I'll leave the back plate alone since I never disturbed it yet. I know it was tough removing the turbs the first year I cleaned it and that's why I made a side panel that allowed me to remove the handle and rod which made things so much easier. I'll give your way a shot this year before pulling the handle/rod and see how it goes but I'm pretty confident I tried pulling with the handle in all positions???




After I take out the top two linkage bolts the handle goes to the down position. I can pull all the turbulators out at the same time still connected to the bar.

I use two pieces of wire to hook the linkage where the bolts were removed and pull straight up.

I now have cleric pins installed instead of bolts. Next time it will be two top cover nuts only for tools!

gg


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