# Waterford 102 Wood Stove



## Blazzinghot (Oct 20, 2020)

I purchased this WoodFord Stove for $100.00 and have totally stripped it down and cleaned and repainted it. At one time it used to be baked  enamel but someone painted it olive green. This stove is very heaven cast iron each. I have posted some pictures of before and after. If you are as curious as myself I am including a picture of the inside heat baffle so you can see how it is made.  The  man that sold me this stove has a Jotul about the same size in his home. I really can't tell them apart as far as the way they are made. This WoodFord was made in Ireland and was a top notch stove in its day at least from the way it is built. This stove is like a tank.

It did have a crack around the flew and I was able to get successful weld and with some grinding it looks new again. It has a 5 inch flew. The stove is 13 inches wide and 28 inches deep and about 34 inches tall including the legs.


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## begreen (Oct 20, 2020)

Nice, it looks a whole lot better now. The Waterford 102 is similar to the Jotul F118 in design.


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## Blazzinghot (Oct 21, 2020)

Thanks  begreen,  When I first got this stove home I found that the whole top just lifts off. It has rope casket all around the rim on the bottom side.  I put a good sized fire in this stove and it did not seem to leak any smoke at the top. It seems the Jotul F118 top also lifts off.  The removable top  does not make sense as it can't be removed once the stove pipe is connected.  Maybe someone could enlighten me on this feature.


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## begreen (Oct 23, 2020)

Blazzinghot said:


> Thanks  begreen,  When I first got this stove home I found that the whole top just lifts off. It has rope casket all around the rim on the bottom side.  I put a good sized fire in this stove and it did not seem to leak any smoke at the top. It seems the Jotul F118 top also lifts off.  The removable top  does not make sense as it can't be removed once the stove pipe is connected.  Maybe someone could enlighten me on this feature.


I believe the removable top is required by England to facilitate access for the sweep. This works fine for rear or side venting, but not for top vented stoves unless the flue collar is not part of the stovetop.


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## Bluelighttaxi (Jan 7, 2021)

Blazzinghot said:


> I purchased this WoodFord Stove for $100.00 and have totally stripped it down and cleaned and repainted it. At one time it used to be baked  enamel but someone painted it olive green. This stove is very heaven cast iron each. I have posted some pictures of before and after. If you are as curious as myself I am including a picture of the inside heat baffle so you can see how it is made.  The  man that sold me this stove has a Jotul about the same size in his home. I really can't tell them apart as far as the way they are made. This WoodFord was made in Ireland and was a top notch stove in its day at least from the way it is built. This stove is like a tank.
> 
> It did have a crack around the flew and I was able to get successful weld and with some grinding it looks new again. It has a 5 inch flew. The stove is 13 inches wide and 28 inches deep and about 34 inches tall including the legs.
> 
> ...


I also have a 102 that my father in law gave me two years ago, it’s worked well for me as a shop stove, lots of the smoke leaks at the old cement joints though. I had previously patched with stove cement but I’m ready for a rebuild. As I worked at it today I realized that the base of my stove has been “packed” with like actual cement, I’m wondering if yours was this way as well? I had to break it all out with my air impact gun and chisel point to be able to separate  my side panels. I don’t have a manual for this stove but I’ve rebuilt others like my smaller enameled 104. I’m trying to decide if I need to replace the cement like material or run it without it...

Stove looks great by the way! I’ll hope to have mine looking good again soon.
Paul


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## John Markovitz (Feb 11, 2021)

Hi Waterford 102 owners-

   I purchased a enamel green 102 in 1981.  I have used the stove every winter since, and have only had one problem that baffles me (no pun intended!).   My stove came with 2 baffles that attach to the side walls (not top) that fall down all the time when loading and adjusting wood.  I wondered if your stoves also had these side wall baffles and if so, do you have same problem?

thanks in advance,

John


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## Bluelighttaxi (Feb 11, 2021)

I had the same issue, I solved it by patiently drilling small holes in the tabs that the baffles hang from and then inserting cotter pins after installing the baffle back against the side walls, had worked well for me keeping the baffles in place!
Good luck,
Paul


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## John Markovitz (Feb 11, 2021)

Bluelighttaxi said:


> I had the same issue, I solved it by patiently drilling small holes in the tabs that the baffles hang from and then inserting cotter pins after installing the baffle back against the side walls, had worked well for me keeping the baffles in place!
> Good luck,
> Paul



Hi Paul-

Thanks for your posting your remedy.  I'm thinking thats tight place to try and drill holes in those tabs.  How did you do that, beside patiently?

-John


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## Bluelighttaxi (Feb 12, 2021)

John Markovitz said:


> Hi Paul-
> 
> Thanks for your posting your remedy.  I'm thinking thats tight place to try and drill holes in those tabs.  How did you do that, beside patiently?
> 
> -John



I disconnected it from my stove pipe, removed the top plate and top baffle, which allowed me plenty of room to fit my cordless drill in there and drill the holes, they may not have been perfectly straight, which I why I went slow so as to not bust the small drill bit, a little drop or two of oil helps too. Adding that simple improvement made using the stove so much better and no longer having to try to reset the hot baffles with a fire inside was worth the small amount of disassembly.
Paul


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## John Markovitz (Feb 12, 2021)

Thats for detailing your process.   Sounds like the easiest approach is coming from the top and drilling down.   
I also wondered why the baffles are even needed considering its all cast iron. ...

Stay warm,

John


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## begreen (Feb 12, 2021)

The sidewall plates are called burn plates or side liners, not baffles. They are in lieu of firebrick and sacrificial. Their job is to protect the sides from the high heat in the firebox. Jotul uses them too in their box stoves.


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## John Markovitz (Feb 14, 2021)

begreen said:


> The sidewall plates are called burn plates or side liners, not baffles. They are in lieu of firebrick and sacrificial. Their job is to protect the sides from the high heat in the firebox. Jotul uses them too in their box stoves.



thanks for your message.  Do you think its harmful to the stove to not use them.?


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## begreen (Feb 14, 2021)

John Markovitz said:


> thanks for your message.  Do you think it's harmful to the stove to not use them.?


Yes, they have an important function.


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## John Markovitz (Sep 24, 2021)

Bluelighttaxi said:


> I disconnected it from my stove pipe, removed the top plate and top baffle, which allowed me plenty of room to fit my cordless drill in there and drill the holes, they may not have been perfectly straight, which I why I went slow so as to not bust the small drill bit, a little drop or two of oil helps too. Adding that simple improvement made using the stove so much better and no longer having to try to reset the hot baffles with a fire inside was worth the small amount of disassembly.
> Paul


Paul- I'm consider trying your remedy.   I had a couple of questions.  What type and size of bit did you use to create the hole? And any problems with cotter pins deteriorating in the stove?  Thanks for your answers.
-john


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## Bluelighttaxi (Sep 24, 2021)

John Markovitz said:


> Paul- I'm consider trying your remedy.   I had a couple of questions.  What type and size of bit did you use to create the hole? And any problems with cotter pins deteriorating in the stove?  Thanks for your answers.
> -john


Hi John,

I can’t remember what size bit I used, but I know it had to be no bigger than 1/4”, there isn’t much meat on those tabs that hold the plates up and I didn’t want to crack them off the sidewall. I had an assortment of various sized cotter pins, I think I used the thinnest ones had but also long enough to extend past the notches on both sides of the plate. I did that so that it would keep the baffle in place so that it wasn’t able to slide off past the cotter pin and fall off. I used cheap harbor freight cotter pins and never had any problems with them burning out or breaking, etc. They stayed in place until I took the stove apart to rebuild it. Just take the drilling slow, don’t use too much pressure, let the drill bit do the work. Use a new sharp bit and some oil as necessary. Good luck


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## begreen (Sep 24, 2021)

It's better to use stainless steel cotter pins. Check the local hardware store to see if they have them.


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## John Markovitz (Oct 7, 2021)

Bluelighttaxi said:


> Hi John,
> 
> I can’t remember what size bit I used, but I know it had to be no bigger than 1/4”, there isn’t much meat on those tabs that hold the plates up and I didn’t want to crack them off the sidewall. I had an assortment of various sized cotter pins, I think I used the thinnest ones had but also long enough to extend past the notches on both sides of the plate. I did that so that it would keep the baffle in place so that it wasn’t able to slide off past the cotter pin and fall off. I used cheap harbor freight cotter pins and never had any problems with them burning out or breaking, etc. They stayed in place until I took the stove apart to rebuild it. Just take the drilling slow, don’t use too much pressure, let the drill bit do the work. Use a new sharp bit and some oil as necessary. Good luck


Thanks Paul for your reply.  It looks to me you could the best or perhaps only, access the to drill the  tabs is coming in through the door and drilling in a "back to front" direction (horizontal)- was that your approach?  Kind regards, John


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