# jotul gf 300 dv install?



## nola mike (Dec 6, 2016)

I plan on installing a dv gas fireplace in my basement once I refinish it. I have a window (actually old coal chute) that I want to use to vent it. I came across the above unit for sale. Looks nice. Any info on this? Would it work for me? What would be a good price for a used unit, and what should I expect to pay for the vent and whatever else is required for install? There would be a foot or 2 vertical run, a 90, and maybe 5' horizontal.


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## DAKSY (Dec 6, 2016)

The GF 300 Allagash is one of Jotul's more popular units. 
The price you pay would depend on the age of the unit..
Venting with the cap is probably gonna be about $300 - $400.
If there is any wood in that old window, you will have to refer
to the installation manual for clearance to combustibles for the 
venting requirements. You may have to blast it out & reframe it.


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## nola mike (Dec 6, 2016)

Nice. Might be a little overkill for what I need, but a real nice looking stove. If I can get it all in for $1k, seems like a good deal.


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## nola mike (Dec 11, 2016)

Pulled the trigger for $650. Thought it had a blower, but no. A little more than I would have liked, but so clean I couldn't resist. Looks like it's never been used, really nice looking piece. All old manuals, brochures, inspection reports, permits. Came with gas line and some double wall connector. It had vented into a masonry chimney, I need to see what I need to vent it out the window. Looks like 2 90's, 5 feet of straight pipe and an outside cap...


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## nola mike (Nov 23, 2018)

So this has been sitting in my (still unfinished) basement for 2 years. I want to get some idea of code for venting this thing outside of my basement window...anybody know of any gotchas that I should be aware of before I try to deal with the city?


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## DAKSY (Nov 23, 2018)

You have to go straight up to vent this unit outside if it's in a basement. 
You need to remove the zip screws holding the flue collar in place & 
rotate it to the vertical configuration...
You will have to frame in the window for the wall pass-thru (thimble), 
a build it out so the cap sits flush to the outside wall & if your siding
is vinyl you will need to add a vinyl shield behind the cap.
You may have to dig BELOW the window to meet the cap clearance to the ground.  
Check your manual for the ground -to-cap clearance. I believe it's  requires 1 foot minimum.
 I would suggest putting a basement window well by that window if you don't meet the clearance as is.
Any other questions, just ask.


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## nola mike (Nov 23, 2018)

Thanks for that. By straight up to vent, you mean v. rear vent?
There's no siding, it's all brick. I'll have to measure, I think I have 1 ft. This goes right into a city alley, no setbacks, so no chance for a window well. Thought I'd seen something about windows above the vent as well might be an issue (I would certainly never open the window while that unit is running, but...).
Otherwise sounds pretty straightforward, I'll pack a picnic lunch and head to the permit office this week...I have gas lines already in the area, so not sure what I'll need for that as well. And I guess I'll see if they'll give me copies of any relevant code so there are no surprises later.


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## DAKSY (Nov 23, 2018)

If this is venting into an alley where there can be pedestrians, you're gonna have to meet the 7' requirement (Item L)...
In order to reach that, you will have to vent straight up, thru the floor & then out...
Here are your allowable venting scenarios for the GF 300 for a horizontal cap on an outside wall...
I'm thinking you may have to run the venting out the window & then up above your roof line to get
this install approved by the Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) aka building inspector...


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## k0wtz (Nov 23, 2018)

nola mike said:


> So this has been sitting in my (still unfinished) basement for 2 years. I want to get some idea of code for venting this thing outside of my basement window...anybody know of any gotchas that I should be aware of before I try to deal with the city?


call the city have the building inspector come by and check.  I am supposing you have ng..  Be prepared the city inspector will care nothing about your pocket book!  I have had dealings with those people I can just see the costs in this!!


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## k0wtz (Nov 23, 2018)

that is a beautiful stove by the way!!


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## k0wtz (Nov 23, 2018)

nola mike said:


> Pulled the trigger for $650. Thought it had a blower, but no. A little more than I would have liked, but so clean I couldn't resist. Looks like it's never been used, really nice looking piece. All old manuals, brochures, inspection reports, permits. Came with gas line and some double wall connector. It had vented into a masonry chimney, I need to see what I need to vent it out the window. Looks like 2 90's, 5 feet of straight pipe and an outside cap...
> 
> View attachment 190009


Mike looking at your picture you have the collar that your vent pipe would hook to go though to the outside.  I think that will go through a wood surface check the manual that bob gave you.    I see you also have the install manuals I wish my stove was a dv it would have been so much simplier.  If that is a ng stove you will need black cast iron gas line you will have to break into your present gas line somewhere for your gas supply to the stove,  It all looks complicated but as you think about it you will figure it out.  Now if the stove really works I got a story ours did and it didn't.  More thinking more doing to get it going!!  If you have an installer to advice you as you go a long it will be much cheaper for your pocketbook!


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## nola mike (Nov 23, 2018)

The gas lines aren't a problem. @DAKSY you might be right. Although it's a gravel alley, but guessing that isn't important. I'd have to run pipe 30' up (or more). PITA. I know that they let people vent the HE boilers straight into the alley, don't know if that's governed by the same code.


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## k0wtz (Nov 23, 2018)

A gravel alley it won't be used much!!  You will have to get a permit..  I would direct vent through the coal chute door and be done with it!!  You have the parts for that also...


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## Millbilly (Nov 23, 2018)

Are you certain you bought a direct vent stove? I noticed you said it was installed into a masonry chimney, often times those are Bvent stoves. What is the exact model number on the tag?


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## wooduser (Nov 24, 2018)

k0wtz said:


> , It all looks complicated but as you think about it you will figure it out.





Actually,  I was thinking this wasn't a good candidate for DIY installation and having a pro do it may be worthwhile...


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## nola mike (Nov 24, 2018)

It's direct vent (hence the "DV" in the name I assume).  The installation manual actually has @DAKSY 's diagram in there. There is that 7' clearance requirement (we'll see if they'll want to enforce that, I'll argue that it isn't paved). Even with that though, why cant I just terminate it at 7' above grade rather than running it over the roof?


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## DAKSY (Nov 24, 2018)

Because you will using a Vertical Cap & that cap is designed, tested & intended for "thru-the-roof" installs 
The horizontal "Trap Cap" needs to be mounted to a wall. That requires the venting  to be INSIDE the building.
If you intend to build a chase around the pipe on the outside of your home, you can use the horizontal cap at
 the 7' location.


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## nola mike (Nov 24, 2018)

Yeah, but why do I need to run it above the roof line rather than terminate the vertical run at 7'?


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## DAKSY (Nov 24, 2018)

Go to Jotul.us. 
Go to Gas Products. 
Click on your model. 
Click on Documentation. 
Click on manual.
Read the "Venting" Section. 
Talk to your building inspector.


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## k0wtz (Nov 25, 2018)

F2f  means out the back wall.  You have the collar to do that..  You need the shield for outside  Read the install manual!!  Re-read the manual!!


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## k0wtz (Nov 25, 2018)

DV means vent through the back wall.


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