# Mt Vernon Quadrafire won't ignite



## actionjackson208 (Nov 5, 2014)

I just purchased a home in which has a beautiful Mt Vernon Quadrafire pellet stove. Its an older model, not the AE. It appears the previous owners did not take care of it at all.  After cleaning, replacing gaskets, a new ignitor, new control box the pellet stove was working pretty good….up until this weekend. Plugged it in, set thermostat to call for heat, ignitor gets red hot, but no pellets feed into the fire pot. After going through the troubleshooting in the owners manual, I believe its the thermocouple. There is a flashing green light on the control box. Before I replace yet another part, does this sound accurate? Would a bad thermocouple cause it not to feed pellets? And since the ignitor gets red hot, shouldn't it start a fire even if I put a handful of pellets directly into the fire pot? Any advice would be great. Thank you


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## Harvey Schneider (Nov 5, 2014)

actionjackson208 said:


> I just purchased a home in which has a beautiful Mt Vernon Quadrafire pellet stove. Its an older model, not the AE. It appears the previous owners did not take care of it at all.  After cleaning, replacing gaskets, a new ignitor, new control box the pellet stove was working pretty good….up until this weekend. Plugged it in, set thermostat to call for heat, ignitor gets red hot, but no pellets feed into the fire pot. After going through the troubleshooting in the owners manual, I believe its the thermocouple. There is a flashing green light on the control box. Before I replace yet another part, does this sound accurate? Would a bad thermocouple cause it not to feed pellets? And since the ignitor gets red hot, shouldn't it start a fire even if I put a handful of pellets directly into the fire pot? Any advice would be great. Thank you


You should read this thread.
In most stoves the thermocoulple is used to verify that there is, or has recently been, fire. There is usually a vacuum switch to verify that the vacuum requirements are met. Most stoves will not feed pellets unless there is vacuum. 
That leaves door seals, vac switches, hoses, and gaskets as likely targets.

If it doesn't start when you have fed it pellets there isn't air moving the heat from the igniter to the pellets. It is hot air the ignites the pellets. If there isn't air moving you likely have a major leak or the blower isn't running or is clogged. Can you hear the combustion blower running?
There are others here that know your stove better than I do. 
The thread I referred you to has a lot of useful information.


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## kappel15 (Nov 5, 2014)

Before replacing it, you can check and make sure the cover is clean of debris, and also make sure the thermocouple is touching the inside end of the cover. You can also do a continuity test on thermocouple. Keep us informed. kap


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## DMKNLD (Nov 5, 2014)

If the thermo couple checks out OK, next step could be to jumper the vacuum switch (remember to unplug it before you disconnect anything) to see if it is a vacuum problem. Vacuum tube from switch to auger nipple is plugged up maybe?


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## actionjackson208 (Nov 5, 2014)

Thank you guys for the responses. So far I can definitely say the front door gasket seal looks shot, although it has been working fine for a few weeks. I checked the vacuum hose and its well connected on both ends. The thermocouple is definatley touching the end of the ceramic cover. I'm not too handy with electric stuff so I don't have the ability to do a continuity test on the thermocouple. But there is definatley a green light flashing on the control box which according to the owners manual, says a problem with the thermocouple. So frustrating!!


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## kappel15 (Nov 5, 2014)

The thing with the vac hose is to take it off and blow thru it to make sure there is no blockage. But, as you say, with the light flashing, it is time for a thermocouple. Do you know someone that can test it with a multi-meter, when heating the tip? A new one should be around 75.00. kap


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## DMKNLD (Nov 5, 2014)

Action - You can buy an analog multi - meter for dirt cheap - invaluable for countless of electrical tasks - continuity, resistance, battery testing, etc. Here's one on sale on Amazon for $9.00 + shipping. http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-YG188-Pocket-size-analog-multimeter/dp/B00064CH6A  . You just hold one meter probe against one connection spade terminal of the thermo-couple, and the other probe against the other connection terminal and see if it 'bumps' the multi-meter needle dial from one end of the scale to the opposite end of the scale as you heat up the soldered end of the thermo-couple with a lighter.

My electrical knowledge pre-pellet stove ownership was somewhere between zero and the null set . So I was initially pretty paranoid about 'defibrillating' myself or my stove circuit board at the thought of trying any electrical diagnostic stuff, until the fine folks on this forum helped me be more confidant 'landing the airplane'. Key is to remember to UNPLUG THE STOVE before you do any electrical connector removal or poking around w/ multi-meter probes.

I see Kap just posted the suggestion to blow through the vac hose to make sure it is open (blow from the vac switch end with the auger nipple end still attached and you won't blow any loose sawdust into your vac switch). Or as Kap said, you can remove the hose from both ends - probably a good thing to do to check for any cracks in it - then you can take a straightened out paper clip and stick it in the auger nipple to make sure it is not plugged, which has happened twice to my stove when I was burning especially dusty pellets.


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## actionjackson208 (Nov 6, 2014)

Thank you DMKNLD for the info. Yes, i have a buddy that has a multimeter who I can have test it this weekend. I really should buy one. I just bought a house for the first time, so I needed a lot of stuff, just didn't think a multimeter would be on the shopping list..lol.  I will take the vac hose off tonight after work and try blowing through it and examining it as well. I'll check the auger nipple with a paper clip as well (good tip by the way). Funny thing about the pellets, I bought a ton from Tractor supply and three of the bags on the pallet were wet. So I brought those 3 bags back and they were out of the good hardwood pellets and gave me a different brand replacement which seemed quite dusty when I added them to the hopper. I'm hoping its just one of these simple things. I'll have time sat/sunday to diagnose it some more. Thanks again for the info! I should have came here months ago for advice!


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## alternativeheat (Nov 6, 2014)

actionjackson208 said:


> Thank you DMKNLD for the info. Yes, i have a buddy that has a multimeter who I can have test it this weekend. I really should buy one. I just bought a house for the first time, so I needed a lot of stuff, just didn't think a multimeter would be on the shopping list..lol.  I will take the vac hose off tonight after work and try blowing through it and examining it as well. I'll check the auger nipple with a paper clip as well (good tip by the way). Funny thing about the pellets, I bought a ton from Tractor supply and three of the bags on the pallet were wet. So I brought those 3 bags back and they were out of the good hardwood pellets and gave me a different brand replacement which seemed quite dusty when I added them to the hopper. I'm hoping its just one of these simple things. I'll have time sat/sunday to diagnose it some more. Thanks again for the info! I should have came here months ago for advice!


Yes it's a great forum, we all learn from one another here. Be sure to pop us a message when you find the problem which probably/hopefully is a simple one.


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## actionjackson208 (Nov 23, 2014)

So heres an update to my ignition problems. My father in law who is a commercial electrician stopped by with all his tools and meters and crap and tested everything out. Thermocouple is fine, all wires check out and blower motor etc all good. Snap discs are all fine as well. We plugged it back in, and the auger motor started and pellets started to drop. It just worked again. Very confusing/frustrating. So it ran for about 45 minutes and then stopped dropping pellets once again and eventually shut it self down. I read through troubleshooting info and saw snap disc 2 could be defective. So i just pushed the little button in between the two wires, plugged it back in and it worked fine…..for about 4-5 days, no problems at all. Until yesterday. Put a bag of pellets in the hopper, plugged it in, motor starts up, but when I turn the thermostat to heat, no call light, no pellets drop. And now there is the green flashing light at the control box once again.  IM SO FRUSTRATED! If I was strong enough to pick this thing up and throw it in the street I would….lol. Please help! Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I tried blowing through the vacuum hose again with it disconnected and its clear. Put a wire through the nipple as well and there is no blockage. Brand new door seal gaskets too as of 2 weeks ago


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## kappel15 (Nov 23, 2014)

With no call light, you could have bad conections at either end of the thermostat wires, or bad thermostat. Try jumping the screws together at stove where tstat wires go to. If stove starts, then it is one of the above. As far as flashing light, make sure the firepot thermocouple is touching the inside end of the cover or it won't read correctly. kap


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## kappel15 (Nov 23, 2014)

And I would wonder why snap disc #2 tripped. Did the convection fan not come on and stove got hot?


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## tjnamtiw (Nov 23, 2014)

kappel15 said:


> With no call light, you could have bad conections at either end of the thermostat wires, or bad thermostat. Try jumping the screws together at stove where tstat wires go to. If stove starts, then it is one of the above. As far as flashing light, make sure the firepot thermocouple is touching the inside end of the cover or it won't read correctly. kap


OR it could be as simple as weak batteries in the thermostat that can't pull in the relay in the thermostat.


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## kappel15 (Nov 23, 2014)

Quad thermostats don't have batteries, unless he is using a different one


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## actionjackson208 (Nov 23, 2014)

Ok, so heres an update. It is not the original quadrature thermostat so it does have batteries. However, I found part of the problem. There was a disconnected thermostat wire going into the back of the stove, which I fixed. Now when I turn the thermostat to heat, the call light does come on. But I still can't get pellets to feed. The auger is not moving


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## actionjackson208 (Nov 23, 2014)

Kap, I checked the thermocouple to make sure its touching the ceramic cover and it is. I blew it out to make sure nothing was blocking the connection inside as well. Not sure what tripped the snap disc 2 last week, but I tried resetting it again and its not doing anything. I'm just guessing all you do is push the little button in on the middle of the snap disc to reset it right?


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## kappel15 (Nov 23, 2014)

What you need to do is have your father in law there now. He can trace where power is, and where it isn't, when stove is calling for heat. Process of elimination.Is green light still flashing? You can also try jumping snap disc #2 wires together and vac switch wires together, to eliminate them. Just always make sure nothing can get grounded as it will short out your control box! Hopefully tjnamtiw can post the pic of start up sequence on here for your father in law to follow. kap


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## DMKNLD (Nov 23, 2014)

Are you sure your snap disc has the reset post on it ? The reason I ask is that my #2 snap disc doesn't have the reset red center post, unlike my #3  disc does on the back of the auger tube. I've read that some newer style snap discs have automatic reset capability, but only for a finite number of resets - 2 or 3 maybe? Perhaps yours has 'used up its quota' ?


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## kappel15 (Nov 23, 2014)

Quad changed discs thru the years. Some have it, some don't.


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## DMKNLD (Nov 23, 2014)

Here's the link that has the start up sequence for the Quads. I can't figure out how to cut and paste it as a separate document. I'll need my tech savy teen to show me how to do that !   https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/quad-castile-combustion-fan.92374/page-2#post-1241211


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## DMKNLD (Nov 23, 2014)

Here it is - I figured it out on my own !


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## kappel15 (Nov 23, 2014)

Thanks


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## actionjackson208 (Nov 23, 2014)

DMKNLD, no my #2 snap disc doesn't have the red post like the #3 snap disc, but it has a little plastic button that I believe once it pops, you can push it back in. I was not aware that there only a few times you could reset the snap disc then its no good. Maybe thats the problem here? Although I used a wire to bypass the #2 snap disc and that still doesn't solve the problem.I jumped the two wires together and still nothing.  Those flow charts are very helpful. The vacuum switch wires are the two on the bottom left side below the control box that go into the vac switch right?


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## kappel15 (Nov 23, 2014)

Yes, and those discs should last longer then just  a few times.. And can you tell if the auger is not running at all? Not even backwards, when stove is calling for heat?


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## actionjackson208 (Nov 23, 2014)

The auger doesn't move at all . I emptied the hopped and shop vacc'd everything out. The auger doesn't move at all


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## kappel15 (Nov 23, 2014)

You would have to have the vac switch jumped with the hopper empty as there would be no vacuum.


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## actionjackson208 (Nov 23, 2014)

Ok, so I jumped the van switch with the hopper empty and still…..nothing. No auger movement at all


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## actionjackson208 (Nov 23, 2014)

Reading the flow chart, I see "heat exchanger blockage"  What exactly is that and how can I check it for blockage? I'm not sure what the heat exchanger even looks like honestly


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## kappel15 (Nov 23, 2014)

The heat exchanger tubes above the heat shield.   The entire exhaust path is what needs to be checked to make sure there is no blockage. this means thru the stove, and all exhaust pipe. If you don't have an owners manual, go to Quads website and download one so you can see what we are talking about. It takes a bit to get deflector off and panels to clean. But, with the vac switch jumped and auger still didn't run, means there is something else wrong. Jumping the vac switch tells you if there is a vacuum problem, whether it be blocked exhaust, vac hose, nipple, bad door gasket, or bad vac switch. kap


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## kappel15 (Nov 23, 2014)

One other thing to try is to unplug stove, then make sure the control box is seated properly. Sometimes vibration causes them to slip a little.  With everything jumped and still no auger, it may be time to test the control box. kap


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## actionjackson208 (Nov 23, 2014)

Hmm. Ok, I had the pellet stove cleaned by a local company 2 weeks ago and they took the baffles out and vacuumed everything out, but after they left it looked to me the baffles weren't put back in right. So I took an allen wrench and took the back panel off, right panel and top panel. Everything looked fine to me, so I put the panels back in place and screwed the back panel in just the way it was. Could that have had anything to do with it? I also had the pipe off to put in a pipe adaptor that these guys said I needed. So the pipe was apart and re-installed also


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## actionjackson208 (Nov 23, 2014)

So should I have the vacuum switch jumped at the same time as the snap disc #2? Because I did one at a time before


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## xSpecBx (Nov 23, 2014)

What about the hopper lid switch? Or has this already been ruled out by some other piece of information?


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## kappel15 (Nov 23, 2014)

They quit making the old style Mt. Vernon before they started putting hopper switches on all of em.


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## kappel15 (Nov 23, 2014)

I would do both at the same time as I posted earlier just to rule things out. kap


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## kappel15 (Nov 23, 2014)

It would still be nice for your father in law to be there with his testing equipment when the stove is calling for heat and the auger isn't running as he can trace where power is, and power isn't.  If everything you guys did was correct, then all it leaves is the control box. Wire and wire connections can do strange things. kap


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## actionjackson208 (Nov 23, 2014)

No hopper lid switch on this stove. I'll try jumping both the vac switch and the snap disc #2 at the same time and see what happens. The control box is about 2 months old if that. So I don't think that could be the issue. My father in law will be here thursday for thanksgiving and if I don't get it figured out by then, he will be bringing his tools/meters along to check it all out


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## actionjackson208 (Nov 23, 2014)

Here's a few pics of my problem child. Left and right side with panels off.


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## actionjackson208 (Nov 23, 2014)

So I tried jumping both the snap disc#2 and the vacuum switch at the same time and voila! The auger started to work. So I unplugged it again, took off the jumper from the snap disc #2 and left the vacuum switch jumped and it still worked! So I'm thinking its the vacuum switch thats the culprit. So what to do now????


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## kappel15 (Nov 23, 2014)

Up above you said you had the vac switch jumped and it didn't work when the hopper was empty. Something is not kosher here. I would try running it a while with the vac switch jumped just to see if it does it again.(Insert non responsibility here as it is a safety feature) lol


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## actionjackson208 (Nov 23, 2014)

yup, this is true, i had it jumped before and it didn't do anything. This time when they were both jumped, it worked.  Then after re attaching the snap disc wires and trying again, it still worked. What is the worse case scenario running it with the vac switch jumped?


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## kappel15 (Nov 23, 2014)

The switch is a safety feature. It shuts down the auger if there is no vacuum present in the firebox. This can be due to plugged exhaust, broke glass in door, open door. I have had people run with it bypassed to have heat. Going thru the posts on here, I am wondering if it still isn't #2 disc? It is still the common denominator here as you hit the reset on it once and things worked. Maybe try hooking switch back up and see if it works? There is a bad part, or bad wire connection somewhere. And I would be curious as to why stove shuts down.  If the convection fan quits working aka #1 snap disc, the stove will get hot and #2 snap disc will shut auger off.


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## actionjackson208 (Nov 24, 2014)

Ok great info kap. So I had the door gasket replaced two weeks ago when I had the stove cleaned and its very tight now. I wouldn't think that would be an issue. If it was my only source of heat, I'd run it to be warm, but I want to get it fixed properly so I don't have to worry about it. I'm thinking it could be snap disc #2 as well just because I've reset it before and it worked after. Also, just to note, the day I had to reset it was the same day it was cleaned by this company who also replaced the door gasket. Don't know if that could be a related issue or not. Anyway, I tried hooking the switch back up and it didn't start the auger unfortunately. The fan didn't ever stop working the time it shut itself down. I was in the room when it happened. The fire got real low and pellets stopped falling. I tried hitting the reset button, but nothing happened. The blower continued to blow out the warm air and the fan was still going. It slowly shut itself down thereafter. I was able to push the snap disc #2 little plastic button down which I'm guessing it "snapped" and it worked fine for days. Don't know why it snapped, but I believe it has a 200 degree limit then it pops for safety? Does that mean if it gets up to 201 degrees around the disc it will shut down? Here is another scenario, when they cleaned the stove and removed the baffles (inside walls) I'm not convinced they put them back in properly. It looks like there is a gap in the top left back corner now, almost like they weren't put back in the right order. The right side looks fine, the back panel has a lip on the top which holds the top in place, but the left side looks off to me. There is a lip at the top which appears to be holding the left wall in place, but I almost think the left side panel should be in front of the lip as opposed to behind it? If this doesn't make sense, maybe I can take a pic and post it and you can give me your opinion. I appreciate all the help guys!


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## kappel15 (Nov 24, 2014)

If you have a manual, it shows positions of panels, or start a new post on em so others with the same stove can help. And plugging switch back in and it didn't work tells  us something is wrong there. If you unplugged it and the stove worked again. kap


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## SantaQuad (Nov 28, 2014)

actionjackson208 said:


> Ok great info kap. So I had the door gasket replaced two weeks ago when I had the stove cleaned and its very tight now. I wouldn't think that would be an issue. If it was my only source of heat, I'd run it to be warm, but I want to get it fixed properly so I don't have to worry about it. I'm thinking it could be snap disc #2 as well just because I've reset it before and it worked after. Also, just to note, the day I had to reset it was the same day it was cleaned by this company who also replaced the door gasket. Don't know if that could be a related issue or not. Anyway, I tried hooking the switch back up and it didn't start the auger unfortunately. The fan didn't ever stop working the time it shut itself down. I was in the room when it happened. The fire got real low and pellets stopped falling. I tried hitting the reset button, but nothing happened. The blower continued to blow out the warm air and the fan was still going. It slowly shut itself down thereafter. I was able to push the snap disc #2 little plastic button down which I'm guessing it "snapped" and it worked fine for days. Don't know why it snapped, but I believe it has a 200 degree limit then it pops for safety? Does that mean if it gets up to 201 degrees around the disc it will shut down? Here is another scenario, when they cleaned the stove and removed the baffles (inside walls) I'm not convinced they put them back in properly. It looks like there is a gap in the top left back corner now, almost like they weren't put back in the right order. The right side looks fine, the back panel has a lip on the top which holds the top in place, but the left side looks off to me. There is a lip at the top which appears to be holding the left wall in place, but I almost think the left side panel should be in front of the lip as opposed to behind it? If this doesn't make sense, maybe I can take a pic and post it and you can give me your opinion. I appreciate all the help guys!



Yes.... it's best to take a picture for us. They are not the easiest thing to put back together right. They just don't slide in like butter you know. But I doubt seriously this is of any consequence in relation to your problem. When you look at Box 5 on the diagram on the 1st page of this thread, you'll see the list of things that can affect a start up problem like yours. Everything to me points to inconsistencies in wiring connections somewhere. It's a new control box you say, so that strikes that out as the cause. I've been having similar problems with either Box 5 sequence and/or Box 3, since my stove was new 7/8 years ago. Mainly I have always had problems with the igniter relay clicking on and then off. So first question; are you getting the relay click on for igniter, when signal is sent to stove to turn on ....and does it stay on or click back off? I learned to equate this sound or not with there either being block 2 failure with pellets fed or a sometimes with no pellets fed and clicking back off or not clicking at all. This has happened at least once if not many times a year since my stove was new. The click on and click off do sound different in the control Box during that startup sequence. Note that difference for future reference. You can try to jiggle the control box or wires in the wire harness card edge slot connector at startup. To see if you get any clicking of the relay or auger movement. I'd get a click on and be good sometimes for months and sometimes just minutes, till it would click off. These startup sequences pretty much overlap.... basically mere fractions or no more than a few seconds at most apart. You get the relay click and the pellets start to drop at about the same time, within a moment of it's mv (millivolt) thermostat signal to stove. You could also jumper the thermostat connections on back and then just use the wall plug to eliminate that as one of your issues.

What could cause these 'first it's there, then it isn't' issues with then it working? I don't know for sure. But I think it all relates to inconsistent wiring connections within the wire harness slot edge connector. At least in my case. Either caused by poor wire harness assembly, the fact that they're just crimped on (rather than soldered) or a thickness difference in card edge slots sizes, between 1st and 2nd gen control boxes (latest version is clear/opaque plastic and you can see inside except for label cover). What happened when I bought mine is that it was a floor model and they had been putting both 1st/2nd gen control boxes in it from customer's to test them out.... stretched the contact points... etc I just don't know. But mine absolutely needs to be replaced at this point. 

So anyway, I started jiggling the control box and wires one at a time. That's when I could get a few relay clicks the first time it happened in the first year I owned it. But it didn't fix it for long. So then I pulled it apart to diagnose the problem better. Couldn't decide whether the problem was the control box or wire harness connector. So I had a friend with the same stove bring over his Quadrafire control box, after a couple of times of this happening and it still would not start with a known good control box. After further messing with it I still had relay click, but no feed this time and relay would click off. Knew I was onto something this time, but I'd already taken it apart as far as I could to solve the problem. I then took the stove into the shop closest to me. Swapping out control box, ruled that out as the problem to me. But when they saw that I'd broke the seal on the control box, taken panels and back sheet metal off, they immediately told me that voided my warranty on a stove barely 6 month old. It was in late spring so I used a couple of electric heaters to get by that season. This is why I won't be going back to that shop ever again. Long story short along with trying to con me for a new control box and a whole new wiring harness, before even fully testing it out, I said enough. We carried it out to the loading dock. I connected it up to power outlet and jumpered the thermostat w/ a screwdriver. The igniter relay clicked on, pellets fed and it fired right up. Their jaws dropped and faces turned sour as my son and I disconnected and loaded up in the jeep and I flipped them off driving away. Some of these Pellet Stove Businesses seem to be run by scam artists to me. Charging more than it's worth for parts on such simple technology. Anyway it must have got jiggled moving it!

But when I got it home..... I was right back where I started with no clicks or pellets again. OMG I was ready to cry. This time I found that it was the thermostat wires being lose though and had in running in no time for months again. Then the next season I found that wires inside the stove were again not making good consistent connections. Either with the control board slot connections or the wires connecting to the contacts in the slot edge connector (defective assembly). So I finally traced out which connections weren't consistently making contact and it happened to be several wires, not just one in the card edge slot connector. The main one though, for me was the wire for getting the igniter heating up with a relay click on till thermocouple heated up, to click it off. Yours may be the vacuum and you may be not getting the igniter relay click at all or on and then off. This time I just jiggled the whole box, got a click and pellets were already feeding as it clicked off, with still no fire. Totally frustrated, I'm now thinking all my original problems relate to that card edge slot connector. All centered on the contacts inside that card edge slot connector not hitting the control board slot edge with solid contact.

So I pulled it apart, got a magnifying glass, some really bright lighting and noticed some weren't crimped on properly over bare wire. One looked like it had been crimped on without stripping insulation properly. That one turns out was the igniter relay. Plus the contacts looked to have been pushed in too far and stuck in. Possibly by a thickness variance in control box slot edges. Which would create a gap, with poor contact within the connector itself. My experience with card slot connectors of this crimp type has not been a good one. These crimped style are for automotive use and DC works different than AC. DC voltage will tend to make a connection even with a slight gap as long as connections are clean. AC has to be clean and actually making full physical contact and so it's best if they are soldered. Also be careful when you are dealing with the wiring on this stove, as it's got hot 110v AC the igniter at least. I'm not sure if there is any DC in the control box at all. From my experience you'll have better connections with wires being soldered into these card slot connectors running AC. That's why jiggling wires or the control box itself in the slot sometimes can work, to fix your problems. Just be careful is all. If you have somebody turn the lights off while jiggling/ tweaking the box, you might see sparks indicating the bad connection points. That would be your problem connection, if find that you hear igniter relay clicking on, yet get no pellets feeding the stove.

I've looked for the part number on that card slot connector for replacement. Nothing there and I've found all kinds of 2 x 15 card edge slot connectors online. After trying in vain to get another local stove shop to get one for me instead of being forced to buy a whole wiring harness and installing it. They all want to sell me the entire wire harness to fix a connector problem I've already isolated. Now what I need is the exact part number or spacing/pitch, card length and thickness to get the right one. Otherwise I'll just solder the wire harness to the control box and call it good, the next time it happens. Maybe find someone here with either the part number or the information on the proper 2 x 15 wire slot edge connector I need. Here's one to look at:  Down the page you see Winchester Card Edge slot connector 8BD15DBCO   https://www.surplussales.com/ComputerAccess/con_edge.html

Your problem though, may still be with that #2 snap disc, a vacuum problem or the wires connecting the disc or vacuum switch to the control board. But it sounds to me like you are having wire connection problems somewhere in your stove! .....hope you get it figured out soon, even if it's not that card edge slot connector!  (between I just replaced that tadpole door gasket myself for $19 off ebay vs super expensive local pricing, to have it done for me. A 20 minute job for me!)


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## actionjackson208 (Nov 29, 2014)

**Update**   I had a friend of a friend who is a tech come over and check it out Tuesday night. He disconnected the vacuum hose from the auger and sucked air through it a few times, hooked it back up and it worked fine and has been working fine since. Its ran 24 hours a day since Tuesday night with the exception of one night it ran out of pellets and another time I shut it down to clean it. So far so good again fingers crossed.  Thanks for the info SantaQuad


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## kappel15 (Nov 29, 2014)

Doesn't make sense from the things that  were gone thru, but glad you are up and running. kap


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## SantaQuad (Nov 29, 2014)

actionjackson208 said:


> **Update**   I had a friend of a friend who is a tech come over and check it out Tuesday night. He disconnected the vacuum hose from the auger and sucked air through it a few times, hooked it back up and it worked fine and has been working fine since. Its ran 24 hours a day since Tuesday night with the exception of one night it ran out of pellets and another time I shut it down to clean it. So far so good again fingers crossed.  Thanks for the info SantaQuad



Good to hear and I hope this simple fix lasts. I kind of agree with kap.... that it doesn't make sense, but who are we to argue with success? :D 

In the meantime I'm still worried about the next time my connection problem returns. Like in Murphy's Law..... it'll be when it's the coldest. But it's too bad I don't have someone like kappel 15 around here working, I'd hire them in a second. So far I've only talked to one friend that's had good experiences with stove shops and repairs where I live!


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