# Jotul DV 400 gas valve shutting off - too hot



## Burner (Dec 2, 2013)

Hi,

I have a Jotul DV 400 (Sebago) that is shutting off due to extreme temperatures at the gas valve. It seems as if the gas valve has a heat shutoff sensor. I've replace the gas valve and the whole pilot assembly but neither has helped. If I remove the valve and place it further away from the bottom of the stove, it stays cool and runs fine. Obviously that isn't the right way or even safe way to run the system so I am looking for any help or assistance. I removed the actual burn plate and it wasn't clogged up. I haven't replaced the main line though. I have another stove, a lopi berkshire, and the valve on that stays very cool. If anyone has seen this before and has a remedy, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks!


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## DAKSY (Dec 2, 2013)

This is a new one on me. I have never seen or heard of this issue before. The Sebago is one of the more popular Jotul DV units out there, both for operability & looks. Have you tried running the unit WITHOUT any logs in it? The log set is pretty much the only thing that can cause a heat issue, & that doesn't impact the valve, just the thermopile in the pilot assembly...


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## Burner (Dec 2, 2013)

I did try to run without logs but experienced the same overheating issue. It's so strange that it is happening with two valves. It makes me wonder if there isn't another part causing the problem. Which part I have no idea. I also want to say that the Lopi is hooked up to the same DV setup as the Sebago and no problems there.


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## DAKSY (Dec 2, 2013)

Does it run ok with the glass off?


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## Burner (Dec 2, 2013)

I actually tried that and it overheated still. The valve exterior gets so hot I can't even touch it.


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## Heatsource (Dec 2, 2013)

Never heard of a valve with a high limit switch
is this a newer model w/ modulating fancy electronic valve system??
what kind of valve does this unit have?


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## Burner (Dec 2, 2013)

It definitely shuts down with high temperature. Not sure if it's the valve or some other piece. The stove is about ten years old so it's not a new model. The valve looks like a majestic valve? It is literally the same valve that's in the lopi stove which is also about ten years old.


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## Heatsource (Dec 2, 2013)

should have a Nova Sit 820 valve
never heard of one shutting down due to getting too hot.

old guide i uploaded years ago... http://woodheatstoves.com/images/Nova SIT 820 troubleshooting guide.pdf


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## xtrordinair (Dec 2, 2013)

ive never seen this problem in the field and we are a jotul dealer ,so i deal with this model fairly often.Is there any thing blocking the intake air at the bottom back of the stove behind the burner or diverting the intake air from going under the burner area.Both your stoves use the S.I.T. valve that are pretty reliable .


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## Burner (Dec 3, 2013)

I checked the rear and bottom outside of the stove and there isn't any blockage. Do I need to check inside the stove below and behind the burner component itself? What you are keying in on seems to me to be the problem. There isn't any cooling going on below the burner so the bottom of the stove heats up radically, thereby heating the valve quite a bit. I took an  IR reader to it and it recorded the temp of the valve at around 250 degrees.


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## DAKSY (Dec 3, 2013)

How is the valve mounted to the bottom of the unit? Is there a bracket holding the valve away from the base? If not, there should be. That bracket would allow for air to flow between the base of the unit & the top of the valve...Can you take a pic of the valve in place on the unit?


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## stoveguy13 (Dec 3, 2013)

I saw this happen a few times the valve has a operating temp on it and once it gets to hot the magnet loses contact and closes it has always been related to a bad burner


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## Burner (Dec 3, 2013)

I 've attached a picture of the valve. It's attached by two brackets that are directly connected to the underside of the stove.


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## Burner (Dec 3, 2013)

stoveguy13 said:


> I saw this happen a few times the valve has a operating temp on it and once it gets to hot the magnet loses contact and closes it has always been related to a bad burner



Thanks. Finally someone who has seen this problem! What is odd is that I took out the burner and it seems fine. Nothing blocking the holes. It's possible though that it could be leaking from the sides which I guess would cause the bottom to overheat. I suppose I'll buy a new burner for it which will cost like three hundred bucks. I've already sank four hundred into it. It's like a brand new stove at this point.

I'll also replace the main gas line that goes to the burner from the valve or at a minimum check for blockage. I'll post back when I have a chance to test it with the new part.


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## stoveguy13 (Dec 3, 2013)

with  the pan burner they had some that separate and burn under the burner this would cause the valve to over heat. I would look down the the sides of the burner with it running and see if there are any flames.


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## Heatsource (Dec 3, 2013)

if there isn't a burner issue you could maybe add a section of lytherm between the valve and hot stove surface
an air gap is also important, not sure from the pics if there is room there for 1/8" lytherm and still leave an air gap>?


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