# Harman PF100 Igniter



## Ejectr (Feb 28, 2013)

Shut my furnace down today to clean it.  First time it hasn't had a flame going in it in 2 months.  I cleaned it out, went to start and it wouldn't start.  Tried a power off/on reset and still nothing.  Had all the right lights and right things happening but wouldn't start.  Opened the door and felt the burn pot.  Stone cold.  Have a combustion fan light...power light...status light...auger feed light with pellets feeding and igniter light. Obviously a bad igniter.

I'm assuming I have the regular fin type igniter and not the pressure igniter because my furnace was built in 2008.  I didn't pull it out.  Just started it manually with starting jell.  Can't mess with it now in the cold weather.

Anyway...trying to get a warrantee replacement.  My furnace was built in 2008 but sat on a showroom floor until August 2011 when I bought it, so the damn igniter is only 2 years old use wise and it really hasn't started that many fires.

Couple questions...If I did get the pressure igniter, is it a direct replacement for the fin type?  Can chiseling away the carbon on the burn pot break the igniter if you stab the carbon in the pot with force?


----------



## Mr. Spock (Feb 28, 2013)

You may have an older 13 fin igniter which are known to fail quickly. The newer 15 fins are much more durable. Chiseling would create some vibration on the igniter but damage it...naw.


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 1, 2013)

What's involved in replacing the igniter on a PF100?  Do you pull out the burn pot and it sits behind it or do you get it out from the back where the auger motor and board is located?  If the burn pot comes out, any gaskets that have to be replaced because of removing the burn pot?

I know I can do it.  Just need to know how to approach it.


----------



## bwep (Mar 1, 2013)

I had a 13 fin ignitor only lasted a year and a half. The new 15 fin has been in for 2 and a half years, definitly a better design. Stove has been taking longer to start lately....don't think this one is going to last much longer.


----------



## Mr. Spock (Mar 1, 2013)

There are two wing nuts that secure an access plate under the front of the burn pot. Losing those nuts , remove the plate and you will be able to access the igniter.


----------



## wil lanfear (Mar 1, 2013)

The first thing to try is to loosen the 2 thumb bolts on the front of the burnpot holding the inspection plate, this is where the finned igniter is located. It sounds like you have never cleaned this area out which will cause the igniter not to work.The igniter fins could be clogged with ash preventing air from passing through it to ignite the pellets.


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 1, 2013)

wil lanfear said:


> The first thing to try is to loosen the 2 thumb bolts on the front of the burnpot holding the inspection plate, this is where the finned igniter is located. It sounds like you have never cleaned this area out which will cause the igniter not to work.The igniter fins could be clogged with ash preventing air from passing through it to ignite the pellets.


I clean that spot out every time I scrape the burn pot.  It's usually got a little bit of like sand granules for ash in it.  Only once when I first got the furnace did I not remember to clean that out and it wouldn't start.  I clean it out all the time now and I do feel the igniter wires in there, but I never looked inside it.  Actually, it looks like it would be pretty difficult to stick your head in there to see inside it.


----------



## mcmaxx (Mar 1, 2013)

There are two other screws on the front of the burn pot, not the wing screws, that need to be removed once you remove the plate this will allow you to gently pull the ignitor out, I say gently as to not break or damage the wires.


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 2, 2013)

mcmaxx said:


> There are two other screws on the front of the burn pot, not the wing screws, that need to be removed once you remove the plate this will allow you to gently pull the ignitor out, I say gently as to not break or damage the wires.


Never noticed those screws and plate. Only the butterfly screws and the plate I take off to clean that area out, but I can't say I ever looked for those other screws and plate, either.

Do the the wires have some type of push together connectors, or push and turn? I haven't got  the new one yet to check it out.


----------



## Lousyweather (Mar 2, 2013)

its the same igniter as is in all the harman units.....now a 15 fin igniter (as long as you dont have the pressure ignition unit)....and yes, it has 2 blade connectors....quite alot of instructions here on how to replace it!


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 2, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> its the same igniter as is in all the harman units.....now a 15 fin igniter (as long as you dont have the pressure ignition unit)....and yes, it has 2 blade connectors....quite alot of instructions here on how to replace it!


 Can I safely say that it is the same procedure there are many posts about replacing it in an Accentra?


----------



## Lousyweather (Mar 2, 2013)

Ejectr said:


> Can I safely say that it is the same procedure there are many posts about replacing it in an Accentra?


that yo can, amigo


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 2, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> that yo can, amigo


OK....thanks!


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 8, 2013)

I have a dealer that filed a warrantee claim to get me a replacement igniter. They are telling me I need to return the bad one to Harman for testing within 30 days. I'm a bit sceptical of that but what can I do. They are helping me out.

My question is can I run my furnace OK without an igniter being installed where the igniter usually is, because I will have to remove the bad one....send it to the dealer so he can send it back to Harman with the RMA paperwork for testing, then wait for my replacement to come in.

Kind of makes me laugh. It's like Ford saying they want to see my bad cigarette lighter before they'll replace it under the warrantee. But I've come to expect it from Harman's customer service.


----------



## wil lanfear (Mar 8, 2013)

Ejectr said:


> I have a dealer that filed a warrantee claim to get me a replacement igniter. They are telling me I need to return the bad one to Harman for testing within 30 days. I'm a bit sceptical of that but what can I do. They are helping me out.
> 
> My question is can I run my furnace OK without an igniter being installed where the igniter usually is, because I will have to remove the bad one....send it to the dealer so he can send it back to Harman with the RMA paperwork for testing, then wait for my replacement to come in.
> 
> Kind of makes me laugh. It's like Ford saying they want to see my bad cigarette lighter before they'll replace it under the warrantee. But I've come to expect it from Harman's customer service.


 I'm wondering why this dealer can't test your igniter, it's either bad or it's not. If it's bad the dealer could give you a replacement and send yours back to Harman if they want it back. Whenever I've had warantee items that have failed ( many, many burnpots) I've never had to wait for my dealer to send it back to Harman before I got a new one. Something is not right.


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 8, 2013)

wil lanfear said:


> I'm wondering why this dealer can't test your igniter, it's either bad or it's not. If it's bad the dealer could give you a replacement and send yours back to Harman if they want it back. Whenever I've had warantee items that have failed ( many, many burnpots) I've never had to wait for my dealer to send it back to Harman before I got a new one. Something is not right.


You're telling me...!  I just need to know if I can run without one being in its place.


----------



## wil lanfear (Mar 8, 2013)

Ejectr said:


> You're telling me...! I just need to know if I can run without one being in its place.


Yes you can, page 22 of the owners manual. Read page 27 also.

http://hearthnhome.com/downloads/installManuals/PF100.pdf


----------



## Lousyweather (Mar 8, 2013)

geez- I agree with Wil here....anyone can test the igniter...pull it out, run a multimeter across it......any continuity? Should be 40-50 ohms, the higher the better. I frankly dont see pulling the igniter and having it sent out to be tested...thats hokey, unless its a pressure igniter. Seems like alot of work for 100 bucks or so. Is the unit still under warrantee? Your date says 2011....2 years on electrical parts.

Leaving you without an igniter, well, the dealer isnt helping you much at all.....and I question the dealer who cant test an igniter....the only thing I see here is maybe you arent talking to the right person at the dealership? I thought I knew most of the harman dealers in your area, and frankly, they are all pretty good.


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 8, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> geez- I agree with Wil here....anyone can test the igniter...pull it out, run a multimeter across it......any continuity? Should be 40-50 ohms, the higher the better. I frankly dont see pulling the igniter and having it sent out to be tested...thats hokey, unless its a pressure igniter. Seems like alot of work for 100 bucks or so. Is the unit still under warrantee? Your date says 2011....2 years on electrical parts.
> 
> Leaving you without an igniter, well, the dealer isnt helping you much at all.....and I question the dealer who cant test an igniter....the only thing I see here is maybe you arent talking to the right person at the dealership? I thought I knew most of the harman dealers in your area, and frankly, they are all pretty good.


When I wrote to Harman about purchasing the furnace asking them if the warrantee would be good, they wrote back and said they would honor the warrantee in the manual.  The manual says 6 years on parts and 3 years on labor.  Doesn't say anything about 2 years on electrical parts.  I'm still under warrantee even if it was.

I know it's hokey and I had many back and forths with the dealer and he said ..."I've done all I can for you.  Call Harman and talk to them yourself if you want."

The dealer is not from anywhere near my area.  Because I bought this furnace from a dealer on Martha's Vineyard that went out of business and got a floor model that was brand new for a song....the locals have sour grapes for it.  Hey... if they were able to pick up a brand new PF100 for $2,150 with a full new warrantee, they would have done it, too.


----------



## Lousyweather (Mar 8, 2013)

2011, right?

http://hearthnhome.com/downloads/installManuals/PF100.pdf (couldnt find a warrantee for 2011, but this is current)....see page 44, 3rd paragraph, 1st sentence...



anyhow, so it seems its 3 years? Regardless of where you bought the unit, since the original selling dealer is out of business, Harman still needs to cover it.

I can see the situation where a local dealer would charge you for a service call, since they didnt sell the unit. I can still imagine them claiming the igniter under warrantee tho, so, you would be responsible just for the service call.

Also, another idea. maybe you pull the igniter out, bring it to the closest dealer, let them test it. I feel exceedingly confident that if you do this, AND bring them the serial number of your unit, that they will give you a replacement under warranty. They might have to call Harman, but its just a phone call. Most dealers stock igniters, assuming yours is the cartridge igniter and not the pressure unit. Maybe compliment them about how great they look that day, etc.....works for me, anyhow! Im telling you, it doesnt have to be as difficult as someone seems to be making it for you!

Many dealers wont do other dealers' warranty work for free, but you can minimize this by doing most of the legwork yourself.


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 8, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> 2011, right?
> 
> http://hearthnhome.com/downloads/installManuals/PF100.pdf (couldnt find a warrantee for 2011, but this is current)....see page 44, 3rd paragraph, 1st sentence...
> 
> ...


You are correct.  I re read my manual and it is 3 years on electrical parts.  My error, but as I said...I purchased the furnace 8/11.  I still have a year and 5 months left on my warrantee.

I thought of doing what you suggested, but the sales girl in parts at the dealer I am working with said she has been notified by Harman that the igniter will be in their hands 3/14 and I have 30 days to get the bad one in Harman's hands. So if I go to another dealer and they call Harman...Harman's going to say....what's going on here.  We already sent an igniter and been contacted about this serial number warrantee claim.

It seems what's going on is, he wants me to buy an igniter from him.  Then he will send me the RMA to send the bad igniter to Harman. He won't just give me one and wait for mine to get to him.  Once he sends the igniter to Harman and gets the word from Harman that the igniter is bad, even though I have an electronic/electrical background and know what continuity does and doesn't look like, he will then credit my card I bought the new one on.  I told him....let's do it this way.  I take out the igniter and send it to you.  You send me the new one and you send the bad one to Harman seeing you have the RMA paperwork.  Then there is no charges or credits that need to be done to my account.  He writes me back an email and says that Harman has to test mine first to make sure it's bad and then when he's sure they won't back charge his account, he will send me the new one so I could possibly be without an igniter "for a long time if I don't buy one from him".

I don't know why he has to wait for Harman's say so that it is bad.  It will be in his hands before he sends it to Harman.  If he doesn't believe me, he can check it himself!  But the fact he is mentioning RMA paperwork makes me believe Harman does indeed want the bad one back.


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 8, 2013)

wil lanfear said:


> Yes you can, page 22 of the owners manual. Read page 27 also.
> 
> http://hearthnhome.com/downloads/installManuals/PF100.pdf


 Yes...I know I can start it manually with gel.  When I say run the furnace without one...I mean can I run the furnace leaving the igniter out of where it would have been.  Will there be a hole there that would prevent me from using my furnace?  There will be no igniter mounted where it usually is and disconnected wires hanging.


----------



## Lousyweather (Mar 8, 2013)

okok, is it a pressure igniter or a 13 fin cartridge igniter?


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 8, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> okok, is it a pressure igniter or a 13 fin cartridge igniter?


13 fin cartridge, I'm assuming.  I haven't taken it out yet.  The furnace was built in 2008.  I don't think they had pressure igniters then.


----------



## dhall28 (Mar 8, 2013)

if you have the 13 fin igniter they were known for wearing out prematurely, hopefully the new 15 fin igniter will last a lot longer for you. The only reasons i can think of that the dealer doesn't want to test your igniter and send it back is one they don't know how to test them (which would be bad but not beyond belief for some dealers) and second they don't want to have to pay for the shipping. I dont know for a fact but i believe dealer pays return shipping on warranty items, i know my office guy saves up a bunch of warranty items before sending them back as one large lump. although i could be wrong on the shipping. 75% of items returned for warranty to HHT (harman,quad,heatilator,etc) are STILL GOOD. so now they are offering trainings to dealers to try to get better techs that don't just throw parts at the stove. so the whole not getting paid for warranty is not true at all. One day they will implement warranty where you don't get paid unless justified but it hasn't happened yet.
As far as the running the stove without the igniter that should not hurt a thing, i would put the bracket back in so as to close off the holes in the front of the pot for the screws that hold the igniter bracket, but other than that you can run the stove with out the igniter itself in the bracket and not hurt anything.


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 9, 2013)

dhall28 said:


> if you have the 13 fin igniter they were known for wearing out prematurely, hopefully the new 15 fin igniter will last a lot longer for you. The only reasons i can think of that the dealer doesn't want to test your igniter and send it back is one they don't know how to test them (which would be bad but not beyond belief for some dealers) and second they don't want to have to pay for the shipping. I dont know for a fact but i believe dealer pays return shipping on warranty items, i know my office guy saves up a bunch of warranty items before sending them back as one large lump. although i could be wrong on the shipping. 75% of items returned for warranty to HHT (Harman,quad,heatilator,etc) are STILL GOOD. so now they are offering trainings to dealers to try to get better techs that don't just throw parts at the stove. so the whole not getting paid for warranty is not true at all. One day they will implement warranty where you don't get paid unless justified but it hasn't happened yet.
> As far as the running the stove without the igniter that should not hurt a thing, i would put the bracket back in so as to close off the holes in the front of the pot for the screws that hold the igniter bracket, but other than that you can run the stove with out the igniter itself in the bracket and not hurt anything.


I guess there could be any number of reasons why the dealer is doing things the way he is, but as I said, I have no choice.

Thanks for the info on running without an igniter in place.  That is exactly what I'll do.  What I was going to do before this aforementioned scenario came about was just get the replacement igniter and put it in at the end of the heating season when I do my off season cleaning.  I can still do that, but now having to take it out to send to them, I will be doing everything twice.


----------



## wil lanfear (Mar 9, 2013)

The igniters used with the pressure ignition can also be measured for resistance using a multimeter. Harman igniters with pressure ignition are 450 watts, using the ohm's law calculator below plugging in 120 volts, 450 watts, these would show 32 ohms.

http://www.csgnetwork.com/ohmslaw2.html


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 11, 2013)

I got the igniter out.  Is there a trick to get those wire connectors seperated?  I'm pulling both sides as hard as I can and they aren't budging.  I don't want to put pliers on them and crush them.


----------



## dhall28 (Mar 11, 2013)

Yea they can be very stubborn sometimes. The best I have found is to just rock it back and forth while pulling them apart. I put more effort into rocking them back and forth than the actual effort to pulling them apart. I usually hold one by hand and then grab the crimped area with needle nose or extremely tiny linesman pliers.


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 11, 2013)

dhall28 said:


> Yea they can be very stubborn sometimes. The best I have found is to just rock it back and forth while pulling them apart. I put more effort into rocking them back and forth than the actual effort to pulling them apart. I usually hold one by hand and then grab the crimped area with needle nose or extremely tiny linesman pliers.


Finally got it.  Thanks for the reply.


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 11, 2013)

Batting 1.000 with this pellet furnace. Two years...two failures. Last year it was the hopper low level sensor. No big deal other than a constant flashing red light on the thermostat. This year it's the igniter.

So far the oil burner leads 2 - 0. At least I'm still under warrantee.


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 11, 2013)

The Saga continues. I took out the igniter and pulled the slack in the yellow and blue wires all the way back to the plastic insert that is in the hole they go through at the bottom of the feed mechanism weldment. I tied them back figuring they wouldn't touch anything. Then I figured I'd push one slightly in so they wouldn't touch each other. Was leary about putting electrical tape on the ends because I don't know how much heat they experience way back there from the burn pot.  I also figured the lite switch was in manual lite so the wires wouldn't be powered.

Anyway....I set everything to start the stove in manual with starter jell and I couldn't get it to keep running. I'd turn the power on using the breaker on the lower power box and the combustion motor light would come on for a second and then shut off leaving me only the power light on...nothing else. I'd also get a quick flash of the status light before it went out. Tried several times and same result. I tried adjusting the feedrate and temp knobs to something diiferent and same result. It would not run in the service position with the igniter switch on manual.

I decided to pull the igniter wires out the back so I pulled out the plastic feed through, blocked the hole with a little fiberglass wool, taped over the wires and tied them back. Should have done that the first time but I didn't know that feed through came out of the hole so easily. Tried it again in service and same thing.

What I had to do to get it going was to set it up like I was in Auto. Auto operation and auto lite. I got all the lights I was supposed to then. Power...status...combustion motor...even the igniter light only ther was no igniter. I started the jell and let it think it was starting with the igniter. The igniter light went out when the fire was established and it is running normal. I switched the auto lite switch over to manual and it's still running OK.

It seems the service mode doesn't like the fact the igniter is not connected. It started in manual when the bad one was still in there. I don't know why. Manual start doesn't even use it. Any ideas??????


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 12, 2013)

No ideas???


----------



## Lousyweather (Mar 12, 2013)

Ive got LOTS if ideas.....but, most likely due to the firebox size of your stove, you arent getting the ESP warm enough to maintain a burn.......stick the unit in ttest mode a few times (put in test mode, wait a minute, take it out and put it back in again)...get a nice big fire......then make sure the stove is set in MANUAL mode as well.....(should do this first)...


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 12, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> Ive got LOTS if ideas.....but, most likely due to the firebox size of your stove, you arent getting the ESP warm enough to maintain a burn.......stick the unit in ttest mode a few times (put in test mode, wait a minute, take it out and put it back in again)...get a nice big fire......then make sure the stove is set in MANUAL mode as well.....(should do this first)...


According to the manual, the combustion blower should stay running in manual with no fire and the status light should be on. When I turned on the power, I got a combustion blower light for a second and I could hear the blower come on for that 1 second. I also got a brief flsh of the status light then ultimately was left with just the power light.

I followed the directions in the manual for a manual start with all knobs and control where they should be, filled the burn pot with pellets and applied the starting gel. Then turned on the power. That process worked with the combustion blower staying running before I pulled out the igniter. Now it doesn't.

Also, I had been running in automatic with teh igniter switch in manual....status light on. I decided to switch it to automatic so I could turn the thermostat down and have it shut off so I could take out the igniter. Whne I switched to automatic, the status light went out. I thought that rather strange and that was before I did anything to the igniter.


----------



## mcmaxx (Mar 12, 2013)

my pf100 does this also,and my igniter is still in the furnace. I sometimes turn the control knob to off for a moment then to service and the combustion blower will stay running. As for running in auto with the igniter switch in manual the status light will stay on and the combustion blower will run until the stove goes cold by running out of pellets it won't shut down, when you switched the igniter switch to auto the thermostat was probably set below room temp. and it began shut down as it should, that is why the status light went out.


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 12, 2013)

I'm pretty sure I tried going to off and then to service and it still ran for a second and quit, but I can't be sure of that. Next time I shut it down to replace the igniter, I will give that a try. Thanks.

Yes, I know about the manual/auto ignite differences. What you mentioned could possibly be why the status light went out when I switched from manual to auto lite. The manual makes it sound like the status light should be on all the time regardless. I have to run in manual lite while the igniter is out.  If the furnace goes out, I'll have to restart it with gel again.

I wish Harman would spend as much time on theory of operation in their manuals as they do on installation specs. Their theory of operation amounts to put pellets in it and turn it on. The manual sucks for theory of operation information.


----------



## Delta-T (Mar 12, 2013)

is the thermostat set high enough to tell the unit it should run?


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 12, 2013)

The thermostat shouldn't come into play running in manual, but yes it was after I switched to auto.  The furnace had been off for several hours to cool down so I could take out the igniter.


----------



## Delta-T (Mar 12, 2013)

combustion blower does same in "service" as in "automatic"? comes on for 1 second then stops, no blinking lights?


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 12, 2013)

Delta-T said:


> combustion blower does same in "service" as in "automatic"? comes on for 1 second then stops, no blinking lights?


No...just service.  I have it running flawlessly in automatic right now.  If I switch to manual right now....it is OK.  When I tried to start a fire manually, it would not run in service. Combustion blower came on for a second and shut off....status light blinked and went out...no flashing lights....The only light lit was the power light.


----------



## dhall28 (Mar 12, 2013)

Ejectr said:


> Anyway....I set everything to start the stove in manual with starter jell and I couldn't get it to keep running. I'd turn the power on using the breaker on the lower power box and the combustion motor light would come on for a second and then shut off leaving me only the power light on...nothing else. I'd also get a quick flash of the status light before it went out. Tried several times and same result. I tried adjusting the feedrate and temp knobs to something diiferent and same result. It would not run in the service position with the igniter switch on manual.


 
If you are using the power switch and not the "auto/off/service" knob then when you have service preselected and then flip the power switch on the combustion blower comes on right away, but then the control board sees the stove is cool and turns it off and doesn't continue to run. The stove thinks it just had a very long power outage after running and wont try to light. If the power is off turn it to the off position, turn power on, and then turn the knob to service position, at that point the status light should come on and the combustion blower continue to run. If that doesn't work well then something else is wrong or the control board is acting up.


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 12, 2013)

dhall28 said:


> If you are using the power switch and not the "auto/off/service" knob then when you have service preselected and then flip the power switch on the combustion blower comes on right away, but then the control board sees the stove is cool and turns it off and doesn't continue to run. The stove thinks it just had a very long power outage after running and wont try to light. If the power is off turn it to the off position, turn power on, and then turn the knob to service position, at that point the status light should come on and the combustion blower continue to run. If that doesn't work well then something else is wrong or the control board is acting up.


Good information.  Sounds like it may have been the problem because using the power switch to turn it on and pre selecting service was exactly what I was doing.  I will try that the next time I shut it off to replace the igniter that my dealer got from Harman yesterday and I have to wait for until they send the old one to Harman to be "tested".  A complete COS.


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 15, 2013)

OK folks.....I sent the bad igniter which I tested with a meter to confirm it was bad to the dealer I am trying to get my warrantee replacement from.  They sent me an email on Monday saying they had received my replacement from Harman and asked me how I wanted to proceed.  I told them as I had said, I would return the bad one to them to return to Harman.

I contacted the dealer today to make sure mine had made it to them OK and they said yes and had sent it to Harman.  It appears they are not going to send me the replacement Harman sent them for me until Harman receives and tests my bad one.

Now isn't this just a little bit ridiculous?


----------



## Lousyweather (Mar 15, 2013)

Ejectr said:


> OK folks.....I sent the bad igniter which I tested with a meter to confirm it was bad to the dealer I am trying to get my warrantee replacement from. They sent me an email on Monday saying they had received my replacement from Harman and asked me how I wanted to proceed. I told them as I had said, I would return the bad one to them to return to Harman.
> 
> I contacted the dealer today to make sure mine had made it to them OK and they said yes and had sent it to Harman. It appears they are not going to send me the replacement Harman sent them for me until Harman receives and tests my bad one.
> 
> Now isn't this just a little bit ridiculous?


 
yup......curious who the dealer is......seems like alot of hoops to jump through to me


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 15, 2013)

I've debated whether or not to say who the dealer is but I think I'll wait until my igniter is in my hand before I decide whether or not to say. I certainly appreciate the help getting the part, but I certainly don't appreciate the run around.

Once this is over, I will be calling Harman and registering my thoughts.


----------



## dhall28 (Mar 15, 2013)

Ejectr said:


> They sent me an email on Monday saying they had received my replacement from Harman


 Did they have to order in an igniter? did they not have one in stock already?


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 15, 2013)

They had igniters in stock but told me they had to put in a claim with Harman to get the warrantee replacement for me.  They wanted me to buy one off their shelf and then credit me back the cost once Harman said mine was bad.  I said no thanks.  So they are waiting until Harman tells them mine is bad so they know that Harman won't back charge them for my warrantee replacement that Harman sent them.

Can you imagine a car dealer doing warrantee business like that.  "I'm sorry sir, but you'll have to pull out your transmission so we can send it to Ford to test before we can give you your warrantee replacement".  It's idiotic!


----------



## dhall28 (Mar 15, 2013)

right, i remember that part, i was just confused about the "part being received from harman," a dealership not having igniters is like a bar not having any beer.


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 20, 2013)

Finally got the replacement igniter in my hand.  Was in today's mail.  That only took 3 weeks.  What a freaking debacle!


----------



## Lousyweather (Mar 25, 2013)

and.....was it in fact a "bad" igniter? Inquiring minds wnat to know!


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 25, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> and.....was it in fact a "bad" igniter? Inquiring minds wnat to know!


Indeed it was.  They sent me a 15 fin to replace my 13 fin.


----------



## Lousyweather (Mar 25, 2013)

Ejectr said:


> Indeed it was. They sent me a 15 fin to replace my 13 fin.


 well, glad you FINALLY got it figued out!


----------



## Ejectr (Mar 25, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> well, glad you FINALLY got it figued out!


I had it figured out as soon as I put my hand on the burn pot and it was cold.  What I couldn't figure out was why the dealer and Harman were giving me the run around on what was obviously a warrantee item.


----------



## Lousyweather (Mar 25, 2013)

Ejectr said:


> I had it figured out as soon as I put my hand on the burn pot and it was cold. What I couldn't figure out was why the dealer and Harman were giving me the run around on what was obviously a warrantee item.


 
yeah, it confuses me as well


----------

