# End of season cleaning and idle boiler care



## LeonMSPT (Mar 9, 2009)

Tried this over to NEPA, didn't make much headway. Got recommendations to use stuff similar to WD-40 and the like. 

Original question was regarding New Yorker's WC90 owners manual...

says... well, look at it yourself.

"Neutral mineral oil."  

I know of mineral oil from the pharmacy that makes you poop. I know of mineral oil that goes in transmissions, hydraulic clutches, and rear ends, as well as steam engines...  never heard of "neutral" mineral oil...  

Recommendations?

I am going to clean it good, and then coat it with something. Haven't figured out what yet. 

Thinking WD-40 like stuff has a flash point that is a bit lower than any "mineral oil". No "BOOMS" allowed unless it's coal gas doing it.  

Thanks,
Leon


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## Piker (Mar 9, 2009)

It's definitely very important to remove all loose ash and creosote from the boiler at the end of the season.  Ash if left to sit over the summer will draw damp.  The moisture will mix with the acid in the ash and creosote and start corrosion.  The thick tarry stuff doesn't seem to pose a threat as there likely isn't any moisture behind it.

I too have been throwing around the idea of coating the inside of the boilers with something.  I tried to buy some mineral oil at wal mart once, but it said "lubricant laxative" and I just couldn't take it to the checkout.  That's the kind of stuff I let the better half take care of.   Not all that thrilled about coating the inside of a customer's boiler with something quite that flammable either.  

I will be interested to see what folks have come up with.  

cheers


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## LeonMSPT (Mar 9, 2009)

MSDS on mineral oil:

Fire: 
Flash point: 135C (275F) CC
Autoignition temperature: 260 - 370C (500 - 698F)
Combustible Liquid and Vapor! 
Explosion: 
Not considered to be an explosion hazard. 

MSDS on LP3 stuff recommended over to NEPA, by some members

Flash Point: < 21°C (70°F) concentrate 

I have to choose between the two for something to put inside a boiler, mineral oil is going to be it. Just asking if anyone else has any experience with it? Did they buy laxative, or did they buy "compressor oil" at NAPA, or another auto parts store? 

Leon




			
				Piker said:
			
		

> It's definitely very important to remove all loose ash and creosote from the boiler at the end of the season.  Ash if left to sit over the summer will draw damp.  The moisture will mix with the acid in the ash and creosote and start corrosion.  The thick tarry stuff doesn't seem to pose a threat as there likely isn't any moisture behind it.
> 
> I too have been throwing around the idea of coating the inside of the boilers with something.  I tried to buy some mineral oil at wal mart once, but it said "lubricant laxative" and I just couldn't take it to the checkout.  That's the kind of stuff I let the better half take care of.   Not all that thrilled about coating the inside of a customer's boiler with something quite that flammable either.
> 
> ...


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## Fred61 (Mar 9, 2009)

Baby oil is mineral oil with a fragrance. I won't point and laugh when you take that to the check-out! :lol:


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## Piker (Mar 10, 2009)

Fred61 said:
			
		

> Baby oil is mineral oil with a fragrance. I won't point and laugh when you take that to the check-out! :lol:



Yep, I figured that out and that's what I bought for treating the door seal on the Econoburn.  Smells nice.  

While baby oil might not be an explosion hazzard, it is pretty flammable.  I might give it a shot myself, but at this point I am not sure i want to recommend it to customers.

Any other ideas?

cheers


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## cguida (Mar 10, 2009)

Didn't the old timers coat their stoves with bacon grease to prevent rust when they weren't using them for a long time?


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## leaddog (Mar 10, 2009)

Maybe just paint with used motor oil. when you have the first fire it might smoke alittle but will soon be gone.
leaddog


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## Fred61 (Mar 10, 2009)

I haven't yet decided what I am going to coat the log chamber with but I am going to scrape all the tar off just in case there are bad things in it. I found that just a small amount of heat from a propane or Mapp torch softens it and it is easily scraped off. Before coating , I am considering spraying something to neutralize such as baking soda or equivalent.


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## Piker (Mar 10, 2009)

I wonder if the oil would have a negative effect on the refractory material in the boilers.  Any ideas on that?  Not that you would be coating the refractories, but what if you spilled some?  Would it matter?

cheers


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## pybyr (Mar 10, 2009)

Maybe we can get some input from Chris H at Bioheat as to what that company (which has been in the high-end wood boiler field as long or longer than anyone else on this continent) recommends or has observed about "mothballing" boilers during warm weather.  

Once I get my storage running, I plan to heat DHW with the wood, too, and so I won't be mothballing mine for extended periods in any event.


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## steam man (Mar 10, 2009)

I think the mineral based oil they talk about means it has no detergent additives. I don't care if it WD-40 or what. After months of lay up the flammable light ends would be long gone. Then a good purging would be all that is possibly needed. Expect some smoke at start up. 

Mike


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## pybyr (Mar 10, 2009)

Another idea for those of you looking to mothball your boilers to protect them from moisture and corrosion during the non-heating season.

There's a product know as Boeshield T-9
http://www.boeshield.com/
that is easy to apply (especially in the aerosol form, although you could also buy the bulk jug and put it in a hand sprayer)

part of the formula is a carrier that will evaporate to a limited degree, but part of the contents form a rather tenacious and slightly waxy film that will adhere and creep across a surface, so that even places that are missed will end up coated.

I've tried all sorts of lubricants, water repellents, penetrants, etc., on mechanical and other projects, and the Boeshield is by far my favorite for covering ferrous metal with a moisture-repelling and corrosion-preventative layer, it's also quite good at lubricating moving parts.  Seems like you could get an aerosol can of it and wave it around the surfaces of a gasifier's upper and lower fireboxes, then pull the back and hit the mechanisms and fire tubes, and be done in a lot less time than brushing something on.


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## Fred61 (Mar 10, 2009)

One mistake I made when I had my Wood Gun was That I was just using the hot water coil to pre-heat the DHW before it entered my DHW tank. After the heating season I didn't re-route the incoming water and was cooling the boiler water all summer, causing condensation on the log chamber surface. NOT GOOD! Be sure there is nothing cooling your boiler water. I don't recall who told me, but it was someone in the business that someone kept a light-bulb burning in the chamber. 

CZARCAR, 
Are you saying that baking soda and acid will produce salt? I hadn't considered using oven cleaner since the surface will be pretty clean after scraping. I will be coating after experimenting with something to neutralize but don't know what yet. Leaning toward motor oil. WD -40 and mineral oil evaporate quite rapidly. If you can get your hands on a solvent that will dissolve paraffin wax you could spray the solution on the surface and the solvent will evaporate, leaving the wax behind. Or better yet, it could be all done for you. If you can locate an "oil based" stain that has paraffin, you could apply that.


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## timberr (Mar 10, 2009)

I was planning on using a tourch and scrapper to remove creosote then jsy using high temp blakc spray paint to paint the metal. After the paint dries it is not volitil, Bare metal is protected.


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## Piker (Mar 10, 2009)

timberr said:
			
		

> I was planning on using a tourch and scrapper to remove creosote then jsy using high temp blakc spray paint to paint the metal. After the paint dries it is not volitil, Bare metal is protected.



I think I like the idea.. just wondering what the chances are of the paint not sticking, and then moisture getting behind it.

pybyr's stuff looks pretty good too.  

I was worried that whatever you spray in there would then ignite next fall in a fiery eyebrow melting inferno... but if all the volatile stuff evaporates out, then wd or some oil based spray should be ok and relatively safe?

Maybe overthinking this?  
cheers


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## wantstoburnwood (Mar 11, 2009)

Keep me up to date on this . I am very interested in coating the inside  of my boiler when shut down for the summer


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## pybyr (Mar 11, 2009)

Piker said:
			
		

> I think I like the idea.. just wondering what the chances are of the paint not sticking, and then moisture getting behind it.
> 
> pybyr's stuff looks pretty good too.
> 
> ...



WD-40 evaporates, pretty quickly, to a pretty huge degree; I've been disappointed when I've relied on it for long-term corrosion protection.

I don't think I'd want to use paint, as I think it would then leave some amount of solids on or in the boiler, at least in places, which may build up over the years, and which could be as bad (corrosivity-wise) as the combustion residues you're trying to protect from.  

With the Boeshield, I think one could run the blower periodically over the summer to keep the fumes driven out, then run the blower for a while before the first fire in the fall to purge the fumes before loading and lighting.

Actually, now that I think of it, raw linseed oil has been used for centuries to protect metal from corrosion.  Residues should burn off OK, and I'd think in a non-explosive manner (flash point temp is pretty high).  You'd want to put it on thin and avoid puddling, as it can gum when in thick layers.  Perhaps use a hand-held sprayer.  Wipe up any puddles with paper towels or rags, and get rid of any rags carefully, so as to avoid spontaneous combustion of any rags or paper towels.

With thinking, as with so many other things, anything worth doing is worth overdoing, or so, apparently, said Mick Jagger....


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## muleman51 (Mar 11, 2009)

Baking soda is Sodium bi carbonate. But besides that, I have heard of just putting a small light bulb in the boiler to maintain a slight temp to keep the moisture from condensing. Don't know if it works but would be easy.


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## pybyr (Mar 11, 2009)

people use these things in other applications-

http://www.goldenroddehumidifiers.com/

seems like it'd work in a boiler, too


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## Fred61 (Mar 11, 2009)

I learned about the Bull Frog product two or three years ago but it had slipped my mind until this morning.


http://www.rustbloc.com/cgi-bin/dept?dpt=H&srch=AW


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## Piker (Mar 11, 2009)

Fred61 said:
			
		

> I learned about the Bull Frog product two or three years ago but it had slipped my mind until this morning.
> 
> 
> http://www.rustbloc.com/cgi-bin/dept?dpt=H&srch=AW



Wow, thanks so much for offering that up.  I think this stuff is exactly what I am looking for.  A non flammable "cup" that you sit inside the boiler for the off season is about as easy and safe as it gets.

Machinists use similar stuff to keep their expensive tooling from rusting inside their toolboxes.  Never put the two together.

cheers


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## Fred61 (Mar 11, 2009)

Piker said:
			
		

> Fred61 said:
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I thought of you when I posted. Having been in business all my life, I know it doesn't hurt to get an extra $12.00 on an invoice.


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## sfriedri (Mar 11, 2009)

I may have missed it in other replies, or it could just be obvious, but keeping the combustion doors open or just removing them altogether for the off-season is also important.  This will help prevent moisture from building up during the off-season.  I think just giving the entire boiler a good internal cleaning and then removing the doors will prevent the majority of corrosion.


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## LeonMSPT (Mar 11, 2009)

With the vast fluctuations in temperature and humidity here in Maine during the spring, summer, and fall...  I think allowing "some" airflow through the firebox is a good idea. However, completely open doesn't sound great either...   coating it, adding a drying agent like calcium whatever the heck it is, or a light bulb/goldenrod, and slight airflow would be the right thing...  





			
				SWF said:
			
		

> I may have missed it in other replies, or it could just be obvious, but keeping the combustion doors open or just removing them altogether for the off-season is also important.  This will help prevent moisture from building up during the off-season.  I think just giving the entire boiler a good internal cleaning and then removing the doors will prevent the majority of corrosion.


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## sfriedri (Mar 11, 2009)

LeonMSPT said:
			
		

> With the vast fluctuations in temperature and humidity here in Maine during the spring, summer, and fall...  I think allowing "some" airflow through the firebox is a good idea. However, completely open doesn't sound great either...   coating it, adding a drying agent like calcium whatever the heck it is, or a light bulb/goldenrod, and slight airflow would be the right thing...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Don't understand how you think that allowing some(?) airflow is better than completely open access.  The chambers are not airtight, so you can't prevent any moisture in the air from getting in, but by having the chambers open you do prevent moisture from building up.  Just as an FYI, the EKO manual specifies that the doors should be left open in the off-season to minimize corrosion.  One further point is that you have to be careful applying coatings that you don't trap moisture under the coating, which would actually cause more corrosion than if there was no coating at all.  A lightbulb or small fan is a good idea as long as you don't mind the electricity consumption.


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## LeonMSPT (Mar 11, 2009)

When the ambient temperature has been cool, and then it shifts back to warm, the water jacket is going to act like a condenser and water is going to form from the humid air passing across it. The more air passing across it, the more water will form. Limiting the amount of humid air passing across it will reduce the amount of water formed. 

When the water jacket is warmer, and the air is cooler and dryer, the water will evaporate from it. It will requires less dry air to evaporate the water formed during the other phases. 

Using a water displacing coating, after cleaning the surface as thoroughly as possible, should prevent most rust as the water will be pushed off the surface, out of the crevices, and then sealed. 

A moisture collecting chemical drying agent will pull moisture from the air that manages to get into the firebox. 

After cleaning the firebox completely, might turn the circulator on and let the oil burner heat the firebox to 180 degrees, then coat it.

 



			
				SWF said:
			
		

> LeonMSPT said:
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## Sting (Mar 11, 2009)

those strips are cool for sure

But wouldn't a simple trouble light placed in the fire box with a 25 or 40 watt rough service bulb do the same for less?


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## Fred61 (Mar 11, 2009)

Sting said:
			
		

> those strips are cool for sure
> 
> But wouldn't a simple trouble light placed in the fire box with a 25 or 40 watt rough service bulb do the same for less?



Yep!


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## sfriedri (Mar 11, 2009)

LeonMSPT said:
			
		

> When the ambient temperature has been cool, and then it shifts back to warm, the water jacket is going to act like a condenser and water is going to form from the humid air passing across it. The more air passing across it, the more water will form. Limiting the amount of humid air passing across it will reduce the amount of water formed.
> 
> When the water jacket is warmer, and the air is cooler and dryer, the water will evaporate from it. It will requires less dry air to evaporate the water formed during the other phases.
> 
> ...



Come on now, I understand the process of condensation and evaporation - this is trivial.  What is not trivial is estimating the rate of these processes in different scenarios and then estimating the time-averaged moisture levels, and I don't think you have offered a good argument that supports using "some" airflow, whatever some happens to be, over a completely open system.  In my experience having a partially open system (not necessarity a boiler) that allows air and moisture to enter and be trapped is more problematic than having a completely open system, and the EKO manual recommendation seems to back me up on that experience.  Also, I am not discounting the value of coatings, I'm just implying that you can't put them on without eliminating moisture first and expect them to be better than no coating at all.


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## LeonMSPT (Mar 11, 2009)

Come on now, I understand the process of condensation and evaporation - this is trivial.  What is not trivial is estimating the rate of these processes in different scenarios and then estimating the time-averaged moisture levels, and I don't think you have offered a good argument that supports using "some" airflow, whatever some happens to be, over a completely open system.  In my experience having a partially open system (not necessarity a boiler) that allows air and moisture to enter and be trapped is more problematic than having a completely open system, and the EKO manual recommendation seems to back me up on that experience.  Also, I am not discounting the value of coatings, I'm just implying that you can't put them on without eliminating moisture first and expect them to be better than no coating at all.[/quote]

I'd never venture to tell you what to do with your boiler.  "A man's got to do what a man's got to do." 

I gave my opinion. It was free, and freely given. Last time I looked, Ontario, Canada was well inland and not subject to salt smell and large fluctuations in temperature and humidity, as seen closer to the coast. Done enough, and redone enough, body work over the years to have a passing familiarity with the expression, "If you don't want to see it, don't paint over it...  clean it off." If you seal water in there, it's going to rust. 

For reference, I would look at information regarding humidity and moisture in basements and differing opinions on whether opening cellar windows in summer to "reduce moisture" is a good idea. Most "experts" suggest allowing humid summer air to enter the basement, where the buried cellar walls will generally be 45 to 50 degrees most of the summer regardless, isn't a good idea. So far as the ECO, don't know much about it. Never seen one, and don't know if there is refractory material lining it, or the heat exchanger, tubes, or anything else. I have a bare metal water jacket the fire hits directly on...  shouldn't be too hard to clean and dry well, and coat if I decide to with whatever I decide to use based on others' recommendations and practices. 

But in the end, if it's in your basement, you have to decide what you are going to do with it. Nobody else, as you're going to be dealing with it if it's wrong or damaged, not them. There likely isn't a "best practice" for "every boiler" in "every cellar". Too much variability in cellars and boilers...


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## LeonMSPT (Mar 11, 2009)

CZARCAR said:
			
		

> SMARTVENT is computerized system for effective cellar venting=$400



That wouldn't exist if the best answer was to simply throw open the windows and let her rip...  no one would buy such a thing, or design it. They'd just open the windows and leave them open until fall.


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## pybyr (Mar 11, 2009)

The collective underwear is getting in a knot awfully quickly here, folks!  

Perhaps someone should ask folks like Bioheat or Econoburn what they recommend in terms of both preventive measures and the amount of angst spent on this.

I have a hard time thinking that wood residues are worse than the sulfur-laden combustion residues that were the norm for fuel oil until some time in the last year or two...

Cellar temperatures and moisture levels do vary tremendously from one site to another.

In my case, I used to throw open cellar windows until an astute friend pointed out that warm outdoor humid air hitting cold cellar contents = condensation, and that by leaving the cellar closed on all but the most bone-dry days, at least I was limiting the moisture entry associated with the airborne humidity.


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## sfriedri (Mar 12, 2009)

LeonMSPT said:
			
		

> There likely isn't a "best practice" for "every boiler" in "every cellar". Too much variability in cellars and boilers...



I'm not trying to draw this out any more than it has already, but where was it that we were talking about a boiler in a cellar?  I don't see it anywhere except in your quote above.  If you're comparing a freestanding boiler to a cellar, these are two different things with different characteristics.  Closing the windows in a cellar prevents air from getting in, but closing the door on a boiler does not.

The EKO is the same as most other downdraft gassifier boilers (Econoburn, Tarm, Biomass, etc.).  I just spoke with a technician at Cozy Heat about preparing a boiler for the off-season.  Given the choice between leaving the door open or closed he recommended leaving the door open during the off-season to help ventilation and said the only reason people may keep the door closed is because it gets in their way when it is open.  He said that the boiler is open to the air through the chimney and air intake anyway, so closing the door does not prevent any air or moisture from getting in.

Just trying to get the facts.


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## twitch (Mar 12, 2009)

OK, so here is the shutdown procedure from the Tarm manual.  This is from the older manual, and not the new one, but I'd guess it was the same.  I'd also add (at least for my Tarm) to remove the fan and put insulation in the intake duct as well.


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## sfriedri (Mar 12, 2009)

twitch said:
			
		

> OK, so here is the shutdown procedure from the Tarm manual.  This is from the older manual, and not the new one, but I'd guess it was the same.  I'd also add (at least for my Tarm) to remove the fan and put insulation in the intake duct as well.



Makes sense to me.  If you are going to try to close off the boiler it has to be completely closed.  Thanks for the info.


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## LeonMSPT (Mar 13, 2009)

Draw it out...    It's how we learn. 

I assumed folks knew what a New Yorker wood/coal boiler was, and where it lived. Learning the facts of a situation can assist in forming a judgement about it. It can also illustrate the maxim that there is no "perfect" practice for "every" boiler, "anywhere". 

The water jacket in this particular boiler, as well as any other with a water jacket, makes it resistant to temperature change. It'll stay cool long after the air becomes warmer and more humid...  kind of like the walls of a basement....  ? 

If I remove my fan, the smokepipe, as in the Tarm manual above, and put insulation in the holes...  it's going to be pretty airtight from an "air exchange" perspective. It might not "hold pressure" or be "watertight" sealed, but little air exchange will happen. 

Forming the plan as I read and write. 

Thanks.


Leon




			
				SWF said:
			
		

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## sfriedri (Mar 13, 2009)

LeonMSPT said:
			
		

> I assumed folks knew what a New Yorker wood/coal boiler was, and where it lived. Learning the facts of a situation can assist in forming a judgement about it.



Sorry, I did not know that all New Yorker boilers were installed in cellars.


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## jebatty (Mar 13, 2009)

I followed the Tarm manual procedure after last year's heating season. Just scraped the "loose" creosote off, vacuumed, etc. When I inspected the firebox at the start of this year's heating season, it looked identical to the way it looked after cleaning and shutdown the previous spring. I didn't use the light bulb idea.

This year I will do the same, except that after cleaning and before sealing, I will circulate some warm storage tank water through the boiler to warm it well to evaporate off any ambient moisture; then seal up the chimney collar and the draft fan port. Last year I used a tight wad of fiberglass insulation to seal up the chimney collar, then put a plastic bag over the opening, and sealed that to the chimney collar with a heavy rubber band. For the draft fan port I stuffed a rag into the port and again sealed with a plastic bag.


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## rowerwet (Mar 15, 2009)

I now am planning to buy some metal protector (MP) from Amsoil to spray the inside of my firebox with. it looks like good stuff based on what I have read about it. It is good for protecting guns, and recomended for boats in salt or fresh water, I'll let you know what happens.


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## jebatty (Mar 15, 2009)

I'm thinking the two keys to all metal protectorants for a boiler are first, to keep water vapor off the underlying metal and second the protectorant itself being nonreactive with creosote to form an acid. It's hard for me to find a downside if these are met.


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## Mack The Knife (Mar 16, 2009)

I was actually thinking about why can't desiccant bags be used? These are the moisture absorbers used in storage electronic component shipments. They can be purchased in 4" X 6" bags. When they are "saturated" you just bake them out to reactivate.
Any input?? Comments??


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## LeonMSPT (Mar 16, 2009)

Part of my plan...  scrape and brush as clean as I can. Turn on circulator and let the oil burner heat the wood/coal boiler up. Shut it off...  brush with paint brush and mineral oil based 90 wt. Place baffle in bottom of boiler firebox and stuff chimney outlet with pink...  remove blower motor and stuff hole with pink. 

Placed bucket of desiccant on grate, check monthly...  

Reverse procedure, in the fall unstuff pink, replace baffle, light fire...  




			
				Mack The Knife said:
			
		

> I was actually thinking about why can't desiccant bags be used? These are the moisture absorbers used in storage electronic component shipments. They can be purchased in 4" X 6" bags. When they are "saturated" you just bake them out to reactivate.
> Any input?? Comments??


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## Sting (Mar 16, 2009)

Mack The Knife said:
			
		

> I was actually thinking about why can't desiccant bags be used? These are the moisture absorbers used in storage electronic component shipments. They can be purchased in 4" X 6" bags. When they are "saturated" you just bake them out to reactivate.
> Any input?? Comments??


Lamping a simple trouble light with a 40 watt bulb and placing it in the fire box would be more cost effective and trouble free.


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## Rugar (Mar 16, 2009)

store your welding rods in with the 40 watt bulb and everything will be nice.  Rods will weld better.  Sounds like a good simple way to protect boiler.


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## Piker (Mar 16, 2009)

Sting said:
			
		

> Mack The Knife said:
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Is one 40 watt bulb for both chambers of a gasser adequate, or would you have to put a 20watt bulb in each of them?

cheers


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## Fred61 (Mar 16, 2009)

My guess would be 1 ...40 watt light bulb ( or lower) in the lower chamber would be adequate. I'll never forget the time I accidentally left the light in my hot tub on for 24 hours. Dipping my foot in without checking the temperature proved painful. The temperature of the water was 6* above set temp. Don't remember the water capacity but it was a 6 person tub. Any temperature above ambient should be adequate.


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## jdeere5220 (Mar 16, 2009)

My boiler manual (Maxim) says to leave the water in the boiler all summer. It's an open system with some corrosion preventer added to the water. Sound right to you guys?

I've used some stuff called "Anti-Creo-Soot" to get rid of the tar left by burning wood pellets. It works great, basically turns the tar into crumbly dust after you burn it for a couple days. I'm burning corn now but this stuff helped a lot when I was burning pellets.

How long do you guys keep your boiler running? I'm pretty much sitting idle for 10 hours a day now, so my efficiency isn't too good. Is the end of March a typical shut-down time in Michigan? Would you turn your corn-burner off during the day and fire it back up at night? Just wondering.


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## LeonMSPT (Mar 16, 2009)

Weather here turns overnight...  one day it's warm and don't need it, next day it's cold and burning oil all day. Today I am running the fireplace insert and the boiler is down. Heating my apartment, entire first floor, with the insert. Boiler's been quiet since the showers stopped in the apartments upstairs.

I have one bag of coal left...  and about a cord of weed....  

Should be all set. 




			
				jdeere5220 said:
			
		

> My boiler manual (Maxim) says to leave the water in the boiler all summer. It's an open system with some corrosion preventer added to the water. Sound right to you guys?
> 
> I've used some stuff called "Anti-Creo-Soot" to get rid of the tar left by burning wood pellets. It works great, basically turns the tar into crumbly dust after you burn it for a couple days. I'm burning corn now but this stuff helped a lot when I was burning pellets.
> 
> How long do you guys keep your boiler running? I'm pretty much sitting idle for 10 hours a day now, so my efficiency isn't too good. Is the end of March a typical shut-down time in Michigan? Would you turn your corn-burner off during the day and fire it back up at night? Just wondering.


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## LeonMSPT (Mar 16, 2009)

Got to watch the fingers...  a cord of wood...  not "weed". 

Sun's out, but it's not quite 35 degrees today. 


[quote author="LeonMSPT" date="1237234882"]Weather here turns overnight...  one day it's warm and don't need it, next day it's cold and burning oil all day. Today I am running the fireplace insert and the boiler is down. Heating my apartment, entire first floor, with the insert. Boiler's been quiet since the showers stopped in the apartments upstairs.

I have one bag of coal left...  and about a cord of weed....  

Should be all set.


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## jdeere5220 (Mar 16, 2009)

Yeah, that would be a lot of weed all right. Guess you would be all set!


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## LeonMSPT (Mar 16, 2009)

An observation I made when working in law enforcement about the drug trade...

"Money's good, but the retirement plan sucks." 

 




			
				jdeere5220 said:
			
		

> Yeah, that would be a lot of weed all right. Guess you would be all set!


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## NNYorker (Mar 16, 2009)

Worth checkin' out--  http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41100&r=4319_274147


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