# Log Lifter



## My Oslo heats my home (Sep 4, 2013)

I have asked around in various threads of ways to incorporate a log lifter onto a vert/horiz splitter. I have seen some home made versions and the ones that come on the splitter itself. Does anyone have any info on any aftermarket setups or do it yourself ideas involving hydraulics?

I'd prefer using the horizontal as much as I can, but the weight of the logs after say 18+ inches is just too much.


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## Jags (Sep 4, 2013)

Its the vert/horiz option that complicates this.  The only real viable way I see to do this, would be to make the lifter a detachable option.  Do-able, but a bit more complicated.

2 pins at the pivot point for the lift.  A pin on each end of the cylinder and quick disconnects for the hydro hoses.  Probably could be built so that removal was a 60 second dealio.


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## My Oslo heats my home (Sep 4, 2013)

Jags said:


> Its the vert/horiz option that complicates this.  The only real viable way I see to do this, would be to make the lifter a detachable option.  Do-able, but a bit more complicated.
> 
> 2 pins at the pivot point for the lift.  A pin on each end of the cylinder and quick disconnects for the hydro hoses.  Probably could be built so that removal was a 60 second dealio.



I'm sure the lift itself would be sort of considered a partial work table when it's in the up position. It will also limit the work to one side of the splitter, which I don't think would be a problem. To do the research I'll need a new hydro valve, hoses with quick connects, a plan for fabrication and an idea on how to attach it when it's needed. 
What can a typical lifter pick up? And, what size log is too big?


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## BrianK (Sep 4, 2013)

This is what I did on my splitter. Harbor Freight truck bed crane welded to box that serves as both the axle and hydraulic fluid tank. The manual hydraulic jack could be replaced with a small hydraulic cylinder.


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## My Oslo heats my home (Sep 4, 2013)

interesting....thanks for posting


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## MasterMech (Sep 4, 2013)

Most lifter setups I've seen will log way more log than you're going to want to split horizontally.  Keep in mind that you will need a kickstand of sorts to keep the splitter from flipping with the big 'uns on it in horizontal mode.  Also keep in mind what happens after that round is split and be prepared to deal with big heavy halves that will want to fall off the beam unless you have an operator side work table as well.  Have you considered using the parts you have on your current splitter to build a horizontal only machine?  Lower the beam height a bit, move the axle back to the end of the beam and possibly even convert to a wedge on the beam setup.


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## My Oslo heats my home (Sep 4, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> Have you considered using the parts you have on your current splitter to build a horizontal only machine?  Lower the beam height a bit, move the axle back to the end of the beam and possibly even convert to a wedge on the beam setup.



Good suggestion, only thing is I would have purchased a horizontal only style splitter had I known there was a way to log lift the big ones. At the time of purchase I had no way of knowing if this was something I could do. And for the price of the units that do have the LL I just couldn't afford them.


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## xman23 (Sep 4, 2013)

BrianK said:


> This is what I did on my splitter. Harbor Freight truck bed crane welded to box that serves as both the axle and hydraulic fluid tank. The manual hydraulic jack could be replaced with a small hydraulic cylinder.


 Brian, I see what your doing to get around the splitter not being able to go vertical. But that flat out looks dangerous as well as a big job.  As that thing comes apart look out below it.


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## BrianK (Sep 4, 2013)

xman23 said:


> Brian, I see what your doing to get around the splitter not being able to go vertical. But that flat out looks dangerous as well as a big job.  As that thing comes apart look out below it.



I'm not sure what could come apart unless you're referring to the log tongs dropping the log. It's rated to lift a half ton. We only use it when there are two of us, one to grapple and guide the log and one to crank the winch and guide the boom.


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## xman23 (Sep 5, 2013)

BrianK said:


> I'm not sure what could come apart unless you're referring to the log tongs dropping the log. It's rated to lift a half ton. We only use it when there are two of us, one to grapple and guide the log and one to crank the winch and guide the boom.


Besides any part of it letting go as your hoisting the log into place, I was envisioning the splitting action now having two pieces to deal with. Below I was thinking of my feet. So may times I am horizontal splitting, much smaller pieces and one piece lands on the big toe. 
I'm sure you have it well thought out and you are being careful. Just saying there's a lot of weight there, that's hard to control. 
Nice job with the hoist!!


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## BrianK (Sep 5, 2013)

xman23 said:


> I was envisioning the splitting action now having two pieces to deal with. Below I was thinking of my feet. So may times I am horizontal splitting, much smaller pieces and one piece lands on the big toe.
> I'm sure you have it well thought out and you are being careful. Just saying there's a lot of weight there, that's hard to control.
> Nice job with the hoist!!



Thanks. We just use it to lift big rounds into the splitter then move it out of the way. On big rounds we peel off the outer layers and let them fall and keep spinning the big round and peeling off the outer layers till its small enough to manage. Then we split the outer layers on the ground. It seems to work for us. I let my 17yo son man handle the big rounds on the beam while I run the splitter and move the splits. We don't often split rounds big enough to utilize the hoist but when we do I'm glad its there.


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## Shari (Sep 6, 2013)

Here's an example of an add-on for my Didier splitter which was created by a posted on hearth.com for me:  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









Bascially it is a cage that rotates within a cage.  The whole thing is detachable, held on to the splitter with 2 pins.  Granted, the splitter is not moveable with the lift on but then again my splitter stays in my yard.

It is powered by a 12v winch.


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## Jags (Sep 6, 2013)

This represents one method of connecting a lifter to the beam.  Similar to Shari's just a bit different:


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## Shari (Sep 6, 2013)

Jags,

Your lift is also powered by a 12v winch, right?


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## Jags (Sep 6, 2013)

yep.  I think that is where Triptester got the idea.


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## triptester (Sep 6, 2013)

Yup, Jags got me thinking and Shari already had the winch on a trailer so I made the winch mount so it could be used on both.


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## My Oslo heats my home (Sep 6, 2013)

Shari said:


> Here's an example of an add-on for my Didier splitter which was created by a posted on hearth.com for me:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I like the idea. I have a couple of questions; how much can the winch lift? How does the winch work with the cradle? are there any limitations?
thanks for posting the pic


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## Shari (Sep 6, 2013)

In action:





Son, on left, trying out Mom's new 'toy'.  First and last time he ever split wood.


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## Shari (Sep 6, 2013)

When you asked about limitations, I assume you mean weight limitations of the cage.  You would have to ask the designer (  ) but I haven't found any limitations to date.

The winch itself I believe is rated @ 1500-2000#.


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## My Oslo heats my home (Sep 6, 2013)

Shari said:


> When you asked about limitations, I assume you mean weight limitations of the cage.  You would have to ask the designer (  ) but I haven't found any limitations to date.
> 
> The winch itself I believe is rated @ 1500-2000#.



The video made a huge difference, thank you very much! I saw the car battery to power the winch and I like that the lifter is its own unit and can be detatched when the work is done.


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## Machria (Sep 7, 2013)

This guy did it to a dual way splitter, but you can easily do the same to any other splitter.  I asked him if he wood make me the same unit (for $), he said no, too busy...    Anyway, if you can weld, easy enough to make.  Make the "basket" fasten to beam, get a second piston, a few hoses and a dual control valve to replace the single.  I can't figure out for the life of me why nobody makes an affordable one.   Add as a 3 or 400 dollar option to a 22 ton unit.  I'd buy in a ny minute.

I'd also love to have a lift instead of flipping vert for the big guns.  I split a cord and a half today, all big urns 35 to 40" very green oak (aka heavy as can be).   Was no fun just trying to maneuver the rounds onto the foot.  I couldn't even lift the 1/2's.  had to qtr before I could muscle them into truck.  Would have been nice to use a lift instead.


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## My Oslo heats my home (Sep 7, 2013)

Machria said:


> This guy did it to a dual way splitter, but you can easily do the same to any other splitter.  I asked him if he wood make me the same unit (for $), he said no, too busy...    Anyway, if you can weld, easy enough to make.  Make the "basket" fasten to beam, get a second piston, a few hoses and a dual control valve to replace the single.  I can't figure out for the life of me why nobody makes an affordable one.   Add as a 3 or 400 dollar option to a 22 ton unit.  I'd buy in a ny minute.
> 
> I'd also love to have a lift instead of flipping vert for the big guns.  I split a cord and a half today, all big urns 35 to 40" very green oak (aka heavy as can be).   Was no fun just trying to maneuver the rounds onto the foot.  I couldn't even lift the 1/2's.  had to qtr before I could muscle them into truck.  Would have been nice to use a lift instead.



I'm glad you found that video, it's exactly the idea we were looking for. I was actually online earlier tonight looking at 2 port hydraulic valves. The cost could be a factor, I might have to collect the parts over time and put it together maybe next spring. The other thing was making the basket detachable for transport, making the lift come off with pins and maybe hydraulic couplings. Something along those lines.

Thanks for posting


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## Shari (Sep 7, 2013)

Just a couple of comments on that last video:

The hydraulic lift seems too jerky to me - too fast - causes the entire splitter to wiggle/jump.  If you had a large round on that lift I could imagine the round coming at the operator too fast and possibly rolling off the beam/possibly causing injury to the operator.  I like my winch operated lift as I can control the lift very well.

Two way splitter?  Sure, it would save time but then again in the case of the above video the operator is tossing splits from his right over to his left to the pile.  After awhile I would think your arm would get tired from all that airborne wood tossing.  Again, I like my receiver table - split, slide and stack in the yard trailer - all in one direction - nice system for me.  YMMV  (your mileage may vary)


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## My Oslo heats my home (Sep 7, 2013)

Shari said:


> Just a couple of comments on that last video:
> 
> The hydraulic lift seems too jerky to me - too fast - causes the entire splitter to wiggle/jump.  If you had a large round on that lift I could imagine the round coming at the operator too fast and possibly rolling off the beam/possibly causing injury to the operator.  I like my winch operated lift as I can control the lift very well.
> 
> Two way splitter?  Sure, it would save time but then again in the case of the above video the operator is tossing splits from his right over to his left to the pile.  After awhile I would think your arm would get tired from all that airborne wood tossing.  Again, I like my receiver table - split, slide and stack in the yard trailer - all in one direction - nice system for me.  YMMV  (your mileage may vary)



The only part of the hydraulic system that I really liked was that it could be made into a self supporting system. And the point you made about the jerking when the log is being raised did catch my eye too. My reasoning would be to take the splitter to more remote locations and just run the engine. 

How long does a battery last before charging when using your hoist?


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## Shari (Sep 7, 2013)

I can't really say how long the battery lasts - all I can say is it's never run out during use.  Don't forget, the battery is only used for transversing the 3' +/- 'up/down'.  There is no battery use once the cradle is in the 'hold' position.

If I don't feel like lugging around the battery then I have used a small power inverter like this  http://www.farmandfleet.com/product...nverter-with-battery-clamps.html#.UistSsYqiSo which again seems to last forever.


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## MasterMech (Sep 7, 2013)

That lift could be smoothed out by a simple orifice added to the circuit.  Similar to a dime with a small hole drilled in the center, works wonders to slow down a circuit that is too fast and runs intermittently.


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## infinitymike (Sep 7, 2013)

I deal with the big splits not falling on my toes





You can see the factory log lifter on the left.
Since this picture I have modified the table by putting an angled wall on the right side to keep the occasionally rogue split that wants to falls off the table.
I stand on the log lifter side and balance the round while lifting and then push it on the beam and lower the lifter.
I split from the lifter side also.
The whole operation is quite comfortable.


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## Machria (Sep 7, 2013)

My Oslo heats my home said:


> I'm glad you found that video, it's exactly the idea we were looking for. I was actually online earlier tonight looking at 2 port hydraulic valves. The cost could be a factor, I might have to collect the parts over time and put it together maybe next spring. The other thing was making the basket detachable for transport, making the lift come off with pins and maybe hydraulic couplings. Something along those lines.
> 
> Thanks for posting



Cylinder:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200442448_200442448

Control valve:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200419671_200419671

Removable Mounting point:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_614808_614808


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## Machria (Sep 7, 2013)

Shari said:


> Just a couple of comments on that last video:
> 
> The hydraulic lift seems too jerky to me - too fast - causes the entire splitter to wiggle/jump.  If you had a large round on that lift I could imagine the round coming at the operator too fast and possibly rolling off the beam/possibly causing injury to the operator.  I like my winch operated lift as I can control the lift very well.



It jerks because he has the wrong size control valve for the size cylinder.  Get the right match and it will be much more controllable and be as smooth as can be.  Does your splitter ram jerk?   No, because they are properly matched.




Shari said:


> Two way splitter?  Sure, it would save time but then again in the case of the above video the operator is tossing splits from his right over to his left to the pile.  After awhile I would think your arm would get tired from all that airborne wood tossing.  Again, I like my receiver table - split, slide and stack in the yard trailer - all in one direction - nice system for me.  YMMV  (your mileage may vary)



We are not advocating doing this on the two way splitter.  We want to do it on a Regular Horizontal splitter.


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## MNtrees (Sep 7, 2013)

Shari, Can u supply me the info abt ur lift. I am interesting put one on my NT 30 ton splitter. Thanks!


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## triptester (Sep 8, 2013)

Here are some pics of Shari's Didier splitter makeover. All the metal was recycled scrap. New material coupler, pulley, and a can of spray paint. Shari already had the winch and battery. In the last pic two U shaped brackets can be seen that help position the lifter but allow it to move up and down freely.


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## MNtrees (Sep 8, 2013)

Triptester, Many thanks for the pictures! it really big help. Wonder if u have picture(s) for other side of the lift? Can u supply me the measurement so I can show my friend who is welder and make one for my NT splitter? Thanks again!


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## My Oslo heats my home (Sep 8, 2013)

Yes, thanks for the photos! I'm going back to the drawing board and get some ideas that will work best for my particular unit.


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## triptester (Sep 8, 2013)

MNtrees said:


> Triptester, Many thanks for the pictures! it really big help. Wonder if u have picture(s) for other side of the lift? Can u supply me the measurement so I can show my friend who is welder and make one for my NT splitter? Thanks again!


The height is 1" above the top of your beam. Other than that I don't have any dimensions. Shari has the lift.


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## MNtrees (Sep 8, 2013)

triptester said:


> The height is 1" above the top of your beam. Other than that I don't have any dimensions. Shari has the lift.



Hope Shari will read this and supply the dimensions. Look like the pulley come from garage door?


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## Jags (Sep 9, 2013)

MNtrees said:


> Hope Shari will read this and supply the dimensions. Look like the pulley come from garage door?


Drop the splitter off to your welder guy.  TT/Shari's design or the style that I built is pretty easy to just piece together.  With a little imagination an engineering degree is not needed.


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## MNtrees (Sep 9, 2013)

Jags said:


> Drop the splitter off to your welder guy.  TT/Shari's design or the style that I built is pretty easy to just piece together.  With a little imagination an engineering degree is not needed.
> 
> View attachment 110938



How u attach the lifter to the beam? Look like steel pipe attached to beam? Do u have better picture of it?


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## Jags (Sep 9, 2013)

Click on the pic to get full size.  Simply two 1" pillow block bearings bolted to the web of the I-beam.

1" rod running through the bearings on each side for the pivot point.


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## MNtrees (Sep 9, 2013)

Thanks! the pictures really big help!


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## Shari (Sep 9, 2013)

First comment:  Triptester is SO talented in his fabrication.  I am very well pleased with both his design and assembly of this mod for my Didier.

Second comment:  The only thing that might not be obviously noted is what I call the "anti-roll bar" which is mounted on the operator side of the frame Triptester built.  You can see it in photos he posted and you can see why that bar works so well in the first video I posted.  That bar keeps the big rounds from rolling off the beam - it saves your toes at lot of pain.


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## mikefrommaine (Sep 11, 2013)

I have the northern tool splitter. And have thought about adding a lift.  But I don't think it would work too well for it or most other horizontal/vertical splitters.

First the pivot point for the beam seems a little weak, I'm not sure it could handle the side loading of log lift.

Most horizontal only splitters have the wedge on the end of the beam and a push plate on the cylinder, opposite of the h/v splitters. Allowing the split wood to be pushed off the end of the beam.  With a log lift added to the NT splitter on the engine side the only place for split wood to fall would be where you stand. If you added it to the operator side there wouldn't be much room to stand as the lift or tire would be in your way. You'd also have a hard time keeping the bigger pieces that need to be resplit from falling off the beam -- you'd have to lean out and over the beam -- your body mechanics would be all wrong.

I like my splitter but some day I think I will sell it and build my own timberwolf clone with a 30" cylinder and auto cycle valve. W8x40 beam, 28gpm, 16hp etc.


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## Jags (Sep 11, 2013)

I am liable to start a mini war with this next statement.

Most box store horz/vert machines are poorly designed for ergonomics UNLESS you are in the vert position.  The horz position usually has wheels, motor, something...getting in the way.


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## My Oslo heats my home (Sep 11, 2013)

Jags said:


> I am liable to start a mini war with this next statement.
> 
> Most box store horz/vert machines are poorly designed for ergonomics UNLESS you are in the vert position.  The horz position usually has wheels, motor, something...getting in the way.


go on Jags, let er rip


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## Jags (Sep 11, 2013)

My Oslo heats my home said:


> go on Jags, let er rip


The basic design of a horz/vert machine dictates where the pivot point must be located in relationship to the ground level equal to where the wheels are.  This typically means the pivot is somewhere near the center of the beam.  This also means that the axle is somewhere close to center of the beam = tight work space.


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## My Oslo heats my home (Sep 11, 2013)

Jags said:


> The basic design of a horz/vert machine dictates where the pivot point must be located in relationship to the ground level equal to where the wheels are.  This typically means the pivot is somewhere near the center of the beam.  This also means that the axle is somewhere close to center of the beam = tight work space.


I agree with that and on some of the newer models such as Ariens, the balance of weight is partially the piston being included. The beam is short and there is even less room for a workspace.


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## Machria (Sep 11, 2013)

Jags said:


> I am liable to start a mini war with this next statement.
> 
> Most box store horz/vert machines are poorly designed for ergonomics UNLESS you are in the vert position.  The horz position usually has wheels, motor, something...getting in the way.





Jags said:


> The basic design of a horz/vert machine dictates where the pivot point must be located in relationship to the ground level equal to where the wheels are.  This typically means the pivot is somewhere near the center of the beam.  This also means that the axle is somewhere close to center of the beam = tight work space.





My Oslo heats my home said:


> I agree with that and on some of the newer models such as Ariens, the balance of weight is partially the piston being included. The beam is short and there is even less room for a workspace.



I agree!  EXCEPT, with one BIG exception!

Have a look at the pictures and read post #12 in this thread:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ariens-22-ton-splitter.112892/

The Ariens 22 ton unit is the exact opposite of this.  It gives you the most work space available of ANY splitter I have seen to date.  Although I'm a new splitter user (only had a 5 ton electric previously), I searched the hell out of this to choose one.  And this is one of the things that bugged the crap out of me, the wheels and axels and sometiems even the motor seemed to be in the way on all the 22 and 27 ton splitters.  I even started a thread asking "if the wheels get your way", ( https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...ht-or-left-side-controls.112270/#post-1497135  ), everyone said "No, not at all".  But everytime I stepped in front of a splitter on display, they were dead smack in the middle.

UNTIL I found the 22 ton Ariens.  Now it's not the best built splitter, does not have a full beam and is small and lightweight which many of you probably won't like.  But those are the exact reasons I bought it.  It's light and easy to move around, and takes up very little space.  And the kicker is, it has the most work space of all of them.  I've now split 3 cords so far ith it,. and the last 2 cords was all 35" to 40" very green RED Oak.  It handled it no problem.  The big crotches with large knotts would slow it down to the 2nd stage, but it busted it up without issue.  The unit is very balanced, I can pick it up with one hand without any straing, and roll it around.  I tried that with many others in the stores, and some of them I could not budge.

Here's the work area of the Ariens 22 from above:



35" oak qtr'd:


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## Shari (Sep 11, 2013)

But, but.......the conversation is limiting itself to the discussion of horizontal versus vertical beam splitters.  There are other designs.  

Triptester, could you jump in and post a photo of the splitter you built for yourself?  If I could think of the name of the machine it was derived from I would but I'm having a senior moment here.


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## My Oslo heats my home (Sep 11, 2013)

Shari said:


> But, but.......the conversation is limiting itself to the discussion of horizontal versus vertical beam splitters.  There are other designs.
> 
> Triptester, could you jump in and post a photo of the splitter you built for yourself?  If I could think of the name of the machine it was derived from I would but I'm having a senior moment here.


  Sr moment...


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## Shari (Sep 11, 2013)

Partial 'senior moment' recovery going on here.  

Take a look at this design:  http://www.icsman.co.nz/products/log-splitters/trailed-log-splitters.aspx

http://www.trademe.co.nz/services/other-services/farming-agriculture/auction-619643570.htm


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## triptester (Sep 11, 2013)

I based my splitter build on the Powersplit/ TimberDevil design. I modified it slightly with a retractable cylinder , a mechanical log lift , a receiver hitch ,and hyway towable
http://powersplit.com/video-gallery
http://www.timberdevil.com/products.html


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## Jags (Sep 12, 2013)

If (and that is a big IF), I build another - it will be of that style.


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## MasterMech (Sep 12, 2013)

Jags said:


> If (and that is a big IF), I build another - it will be of that style.


What style was the "little" splitter you built?  Was it a horz/vert?


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## Jags (Sep 12, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> What style was the "little" splitter you built?  Was it a horz/vert?



Nope - pure horz.  Low tonnage, fast stroke, limited to 18" and it gets jiggy wid it.  Basically the same as the old I/O 15 ton unit (not built anymore) but mine has a larger beam, more HP (simply because that was the donor engine) and electric start.  It sits at a height similar to the Super splitter for ergonomics while splitting the <20" rounds that it gets feed.  Kinda purpose built.  And man can that little sucker spit out some firewood.  Fast.


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## mikefrommaine (Sep 13, 2013)

triptester said:


> I based my splitter build on the Powersplit/ TimberDevil design. I modified it slightly with a retractable cylinder , a mechanical log lift , a receiver hitch ,and hyway towable
> http://powersplit.com/video-gallery
> http://www.timberdevil.com/products.html


Got any pics of your splitter?

That gave me some ideas.  I can see myself cutting up my splitter to make a vertical only version -- at just  the right height. 

Add a log lift to one side and I could probably cannibalize an old treadmill for a conveyor to load my trailer on the other side. An auto cycle valve would be icing on the cake.

Just got to learn how to weld


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## MasterMech (Sep 13, 2013)

mikefrommaine said:


> Got any pics of your splitter?
> 
> That gave me some ideas.  I can see myself cutting up my splitter to make a vertical only version -- at just  the right height.
> 
> ...


Buy a big MIG or a stick machine and let's see some pics!


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## Jags (Sep 13, 2013)

Get a fitty dollar used lincoln stick welder off of craigslist or fleebay, wire in the appropriate 220 outlet and get to sticking things together.  I love migs, but it takes a big one to start welding the kind of steel used on a splitter.


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## mikefrommaine (Sep 13, 2013)

I'm searching CL...


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## mikefrommaine (Sep 13, 2013)

Jags said:


> Get a fitty dollar used lincoln stick welder off of craigslist or fleebay, wire in the appropriate 220 outlet and get to sticking things together.  I love migs, but it takes a big one to start welding the kind of steel used on a splitter.


$50?   The cheapest stick welder I can find is 150 -- and I'd have to drive to Mass.  How crazy would it be to try gas welding something like this?


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## Jags (Sep 13, 2013)

mikefrommaine said:


> $50?   The cheapest stick welder I can find is 150 -- and I'd have to drive to Mass.  How crazy would it be to try gas welding something like this?



Crazy - especially if you are new to welding.  Gas welding is almost a lost art.

ETA - just checked my area for giggles.  Looks like $150 for 225 amp.  I just turned one down that somebody wanted to give to me.  I told a friend about it, and he got it - free.


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## mikefrommaine (Sep 13, 2013)

Alright, thought about the vertical only concept some more. Obviously if you take a 6' beam and put it vertically on a work table 30-36" high it won't fit in the garage. And transport becomes an issue... The powersplit raises and lowers the cylinder to keep the height low. Ideally I would be able to use the existing beam and cylinder set up -- quick easy

I vaguely remember seeing someone on (maybe on AS) build a vertical only work table splitter that used a full height beam. I think the beam tilted into place.   Any ideas on how to tilt a full length beam into space on a splitter like this?


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## mikefrommaine (Sep 13, 2013)

Found a few pics of the one I was thinking of but can't find the original thread.

Looks like a typical H/V splitter could mostly be used but lifting the beam into place wouldnt be easy.


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## MasterMech (Sep 13, 2013)

What about mounting the whole table on a pivot?


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