# New Chimney Melting My Vinyl Siding



## tae111 (Mar 3, 2016)

I put up a new 8" Supervent stainless steel double wall insulated chimney last fall. I just noticed the vinyl siding behind it is starting to deform. I used their mounting kit and wall brackets. The chimney consists of a through the wall tee with six 36" sections above it. I also noticed that the first section off the tee is discolored and if you tap on it it rings like an oil drum. Behind that section is where the siding is melting. If you tap on the next section up you just hear a thud. Is it possible for the insulation in the pipe to degrade with the heat?


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## Dmriggs (Mar 3, 2016)

tae111 said:


> View attachment 176061
> View attachment 176060
> 
> 
> ...


It seems to me that maybe that particular section, maybe doesn't have any insulation in it. Did you install the chimney yourself? I'm sure there would be a noticeable difference in weight between an insulated section and one without. 
I would think it would take an extremely hot fire to burn the insulation to the point of no insulating properties at all! 
Hopefully one of the experts will chime in on this very important issue shortly!


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## saskwoodburner (Mar 3, 2016)

I would quit burning immediately, and get a professional in to assess the situation. You know how when someone leaves the barbecue too close to a house and the siding melts or starts warping? Whatever is going on is much too hot to be happening there.

Is it my eyes, or is the chimney color changed permanently to golden/straw color from the heat?

How far is your chimney away from the siding? Might give someone smarter than me a ballpark for the temps being reached.


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## Dmriggs (Mar 3, 2016)

Possibly an undetected chimney fire at some point maybe? Hmmm


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## double-d (Mar 3, 2016)

Just by looking at the lower pipe, it may have been over fired, and that is also the area where the siding is melting. I doubt that the insulation is missing or fallen down.


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## kennyp2339 (Mar 3, 2016)

After looking at the pics very closely I'm leaning towards an undetected chimney fire also, looking at the discoloring of the pipe you could see how the first (2) lengths from the bottom going up had the high temp discoloration, I would pull the cleanout cap and look up the pipe to see if the insulation intact, also if the center pipe is still smooth and not bowed out.


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## tae111 (Mar 3, 2016)

Dmriggs said:


> It seems to me that maybe that particular section, maybe doesn't have any insulation in it. Did you install the chimney yourself? I'm sure there would be a noticeable difference in weight between an insulated section and one without.
> I would think it would take an extremely hot fire to burn the insulation to the point of no insulating properties at all!
> Hopefully one of the experts will chime in on this very important issue shortly!


I did install it myself and didn't notice any weight difference.


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## tae111 (Mar 3, 2016)

Dmriggs said:


> Possibly an undetected chimney fire at some point maybe? Hmmm


Maybe but I didn't notice one. I called the manufacturer, Selkirk, and he said the chimney was supposed to stand up to chimney fires and the clearance of their mounting kit should protect the house. I had the house sided last fall and right before I did that I replaced the chimney that was there since 1984 (same model chimney) I was concerned about the vinyl siding at that time but could find nothing on the internet that said it would be a problem. I also couldn't find anyone selling a mounting system that held the chimney further away from the house. My stove is a Consolidated Dutchwest large model that I put in in 1984. Cast iron with a catalytic combustor. This year we burned only Envi 8 blocks. These are made from pressed hardwood floor (oak) dust and chips. Only water and pressure used in making them. The moisture content is close to zero so the creosote formation is way less then regular seasoned wood. I do clean the chimney out after every cord or ton on this case and I am able to keep the stove temps the same as burning split wood. In the 30 years that I had the old chimney I did have a few small chimney fires that crept up the chimney. When I took it down there was no evidence of damage inside though.


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## tae111 (Mar 3, 2016)

saskwoodburner said:


> I would quit burning immediately, and get a professional in to assess the situation. You know how when someone leaves the barbecue too close to a house and the siding melts or starts warping? Whatever is going on is much too hot to be happening there.
> 
> Is it my eyes, or is the chimney color changed permanently to golden/straw color from the heat?
> 
> How far is your chimney away from the siding? Might give someone smarter than me a ballpark for the temps being reached.


I did stop burning as soon as I noticed it


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## tae111 (Mar 3, 2016)

The chimney is a class A solid pack and has a 2" clearance requirement to combustibles. I have 2 3/4" with my set up. I also used the outside wall brackets and hardware that Supervent sells for this installation.


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## MishMouse (Mar 3, 2016)

The bottom part of the pipe should not be that color.  Some event either major over fire or chimney fire must have happened. I would not burn it until an expert has reviewed the setup and an inspection has been made.


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## webby3650 (Mar 3, 2016)

My first guess would be that you had a bunch of buildup in the tee and it caught on fire.


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## jetsam (Mar 3, 2016)

Vinyl siding usually has a very low melting point- I've seen 160°F quoted as a general rule of thumb.

Find and fix the problem that led to the pipe being that hot first- maybe a creosote issue leading to chimney fire,  maybe a gasket issue leading to overfires,  whatever.

If you want to repair the siding,  you may want to consider running a different product up behind the chimney.  If it was me,  I might get some J channel and end the siding run nicely to either side of the pipe,  and put in Hardieplank or regular cement shingles.  You can take a piece of the siding to Home Depot and ask them to colormatch it,  so you can paint the cement siding the same color as the vinyl.

Plain old cement shingles are cheap and come in 2' width,  which is probably a good size for that.  I've never installed Hardieplank but I have heard good things about it.


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## tae111 (Mar 3, 2016)

webby3650 said:


> My first guess would be that you had a bunch of buildup in the tee and it caught on fire.


That maybe the case but should that destroy the chimney section. I would think that these chimneys are constructed so that they could stand up to pretty high heat. When I tap anywhere on that first section it sounds like tapping a empty paint can now. If you tap on the tee or the next section up you just hear a thud. would the heat be high enough to disintegrate the insulation?


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## tae111 (Mar 3, 2016)

jetsam said:


> Vinyl siding usually has a very low melting point- I've seen 160°F quoted as a general rule of thumb.
> 
> Find and fix the problem that led to the pipe being that hot first- maybe a creosote issue leading to chimney fire,  maybe a gasket issue leading to overfires,  whatever.
> 
> ...


Thanks I was thinking of doing something like that. I already have the colormatch paint. I am going to take the chimney down to that section and replace it.


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## tae111 (Mar 3, 2016)

tae111 said:


> I did stop burning as soon as I noticed it


And yes it did change color from the heat


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## Dmriggs (Mar 3, 2016)

tae111 said:


> Thanks I was thinking of doing something like that. I already have the colormatch paint. I am going to take the chimney down to that section and replace it.


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## begreen (Mar 3, 2016)

It does look like something wrong happened there. Was the tee cap loose or not sealing right at some point? An air leak at the tee can cause rapid cooling of the flue gases. My guess would also be a chimney fire. This should be inspected by a certified sweep to verify current safety.


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## Dmriggs (Mar 3, 2016)

There are at least a couple of professional chimney sweeps that, frequent these forums. I hope one of them at least, will pop on here. I'm glad to hear you plan on dismantling and replacing the affected sections but, I know it's not an easy endeavor.
I've only experienced one chimney fire and caught it quickly. I've read though that they can burn  hot enough to warp or collapse the inner liner of double wall pipe so, I guess, it may be possible to incinerate the insulation. I would think it would have to burn at a real high temp for an extended amount of time though. I don't have the details but, I remember reading that double walled insulated pipe should withstand like 1100 degrees for like an hour.


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## Xtrl9 (Mar 3, 2016)

tae111 said:


> .... This year we burned only Envi 8 blocks. These are made from pressed hardwood floor (oak) dust and chips. Only water and pressure used in making them. The moisture content is close to zero so the creosote formation is way less then regular seasoned wood....



Just in case you were unaware these things burn hotter because of that.  How many and how were you loading them in your stove?


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## webby3650 (Mar 3, 2016)

tae111 said:


> That maybe the case but should that destroy the chimney section. I would think that these chimneys are constructed so that they could stand up to pretty high heat. When I tap anywhere on that first section it sounds like tapping a empty paint can now. If you tap on the tee or the next section up you just hear a thud. would the heat be high enough to disintegrate the insulation?


I don't think this one event would or should damage the pipe. Multiple flue fires can though. 
It's really odd that it sounds different when you thump on it too.


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## webby3650 (Mar 3, 2016)

jetsam said:


> Vinyl siding usually has a very low melting point- I've seen 160°F quoted as a general rule of thumb.
> 
> Find and fix the problem that led to the pipe being that hot first- maybe a creosote issue leading to chimney fire,  maybe a gasket issue leading to overfires,  whatever.
> 
> ...


Ive seen multiple times where the reflection from a window next to a vinyl sided fireplace chase actually melts the siding. It's pretty flimsy stuff! If it wasn't for the messed up chimney section I wouldn't be all too alarmed.


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## mellow (Mar 3, 2016)

I find it odd that you would have a chimney fire burning compressed wood bricks in a cat stove, are you monitoring your flue temps?  Seems to me the cat bypass/damper was left open and it burned really hot.  Can you post some pics of your stove and stove pipe setup inside?


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## tae111 (Mar 3, 2016)

Xtrl9 said:


> Just in case you were unaware these things burn hotter because of that.  How many and how were you loading them in your stove?


Yes I am aware of that and turn the air down on the stove to compensate for that. I have 3 thermometers. 2 on each top corner of the stove and one on the stove pipe. Also on this stove there is a thermometer in the top plate of the stove right above the catalytic combustor. Even though the stove could be running between 300 and 400 degrees the catalytic thermometer usually runs between 750 and 1000 degrees. I don't ever load more than 6 bricks at any one time.


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## AmbDrvr253 (Mar 3, 2016)

mellow said:


> I find it odd that you would have a chimney fire burning compressed wood bricks in a cat stove, are you monitoring your flue temps?  Seems to me the cat bypass/damper was left open and it burned really hot.  Can you post some pics of your stove and stove pipe setup inside?


 
I have to agree. I do not believe one event caused this type of discoloration. Unless it was an 8 hour event......


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## AmbDrvr253 (Mar 3, 2016)

Perhaps there was an air leak SOMEWHERE, chimney or stove, which might have caused the overfire.


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## tae111 (Mar 3, 2016)

tae111 said:


> Yes I am aware of that and turn the air down on the stove to compensate for that. I have 3 thermometers. 2 on each top corner of the stove and one on the stove pipe. Also on this stove there is a thermometer in the top plate of the stove right above the catalytic combustor. Even though the stove could be running between 300 and 400 degrees the catalytic thermometer usually runs between 750 and 1000 degrees. I don't ever load more than 6 bricks at any one time.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## tae111 (Mar 3, 2016)

tae111 said:


> Yes I am aware of that and turn the air down on the stove to compensate for that. I have 3 thermometers. 2 on each top corner of the stove and one on the stove pipe. Also on this stove there is a thermometer in the top plate of the stove right above the catalytic combustor. Even though the stove could be running between 300 and 400 degrees the catalytic thermometer usually runs between 750 and 1000 degrees. I don't ever load more than 6 bricks at any one time.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



View attachment 176101



AmbDrvr253 said:


> Perhaps there was an air leak SOMEWHERE, chimney or stove, which might have caused the overfire.


The stove has had new gaskets and cement over the summer and is air tight. All the stove pipe and chimney are brand new. I checked the bottom cap for the chimney outside  and it was secure. When I replaced the chimney I also replaced everything from the stove up.


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## tae111 (Mar 3, 2016)

Here is a pic of the inside of the chimney after I cleaned it out. There was hardly any build up inside. the brush went up and down almost as if it was a new chimney. When I pulled it out nothing went on the ground.
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
  Everything looks to be intact.


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## Simonkenton (Mar 3, 2016)

Sorry for your problem. I burn normally firewood that is between 16 and 22 percent moisture.
I had an oak floor installed, 3 1/2 inch wide t&g oak. That wood is 8 percent. I had a bunch of scraps.  I burned some of that stuff, damn did it burn hot.
I had that oak in 12 inch pieces, I couldn't put but 4 or 5 in there, any more and the heat would climb out of control.
So it is possible that your superdry blocks are just bad news to begin with.


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## mellow (Mar 3, 2016)

The stove itself has been run hot a few times, granted it is old and you might not have done it since the new chimney but the white on the upper part is from overheating, I cant but help wondering if you are leaving the damper open to long burning those bricks and overheating, they will run off on you in a heartbeat if you leave them burning with the air wide open.


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## bholler (Mar 3, 2016)

From the looks of the chimney it is not being run to hot or the cat is not working properly.  I cant tell you why the siding is melting or that pipe sounds different but i would have a pro check it out.  And yes you can have a fire with blocks in that stove.


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## tae111 (Mar 3, 2016)

Simonkenton said:


> Sorry for your problem. I burn normally firewood that is between 16 and 22 percent moisture.
> I had an oak floor installed, 3 1/2 inch wide t&g oak. That wood is 8 percent. I had a bunch of scraps.  I burned some of that stuff, damn did it burn hot.
> I had that oak in 12 inch pieces, I couldn't put but 4 or 5 in there, any more and the heat would climb out of control.
> So it is possible that your superdry blocks are just bad news to begin with.


I am having no problem keeping the stove at between 300 and 450. I just keep the air open 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I usually turn them 1 to 2 turns when burning regular seasoned firewood. I did have one time where the creosote in the stove pipe just above the stove got going pretty hot but I was there when it happened and shut the air off. It cooled down in less than 1 hour.


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## jatoxico (Mar 3, 2016)

As someone already mentioned I thought the chimney would be able to stand up to not only use, but abuse and still protect. Curious to see what you find when you pull it down.


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## bholler (Mar 3, 2016)

tae111 said:


> I did have one time where the creosote in the stove pipe just above the stove got going pretty hot but I was there when it happened and shut the air off. It cooled down in less than 1 hour.


How hot is pretty hot?  Also an hour to come back down is pretty long.


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## bholler (Mar 3, 2016)

jatoxico said:


> As someone already mentioned I thought the chimney would be able to stand up to not only use, but abuse and still protect.


Yes it will stand up to use but they should be thoroughly checked after a chimney fire.  They will stand up to some abuse but they will fail eventually.  I don't think the chimney has failed in this case but something is not working right and I cant tell from the picks or info what that is.  Someone with experience really needs to get their hands and eyes on it to see.


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## mellow (Mar 3, 2016)

tae111 said:


> I usually turn them 1 to 2 turns when burning regular seasoned firewood.



Have you checked the moisture in this wood?  Thought you were burning bricks?


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## tae111 (Mar 3, 2016)

mellow said:


> The stove itself has been run hot a few times, granted it is old and you might not have done it since the new chimney but the white on the upper part is from overheating, I cant but help wondering if you are leaving the damper open to long burning those bricks and overheating, they will run off on you in a heartbeat if you leave them burning with the air wide open.


I painted the stove once about 10 years ago it has been light colored in that area for last 7 years at least. I have never left the damper open for an extended period. I usually run it open until it is hot enough to fire up the cat. The manual says that's 400 to 500 degrees. I never wait that long. Around 300 degrees will usually get the cat going with well seasoned wood and even less with the bricks because of the low moisture content.


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## jdp1152 (Mar 3, 2016)

It might not be heat from the flue doing this.  I had a similar issue and it was the sunlight reflecting off my neighbors Windows.  Google it...very common and overlooked problem with vinyl siding.  You could be getting a double dose of heat from the chimney reflection given that it's a reflective surface.


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## tae111 (Mar 3, 2016)

mellow said:


> Have you checked the moisture in this wood?  Thought you were burning bricks?


I am burning bricks (envi8) this year. I have burned them in past years some but this year my firewood guy retired so I have been burning them only. I went through 3 tons this year. I haven't checked it but it's supposed to be near zero. Every time I cleaned the chimney this year it was almost a waist of time since there was no build up at all.


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## tae111 (Mar 3, 2016)

jdp1152 said:


> It might not be heat from the flue doing this.  I had a similar issue and it was the sunlight reflecting off my neighbors Windows.  Google it...very common and overlooked problem with vinyl siding.  You could be getting a double dose of heat from the chimney reflection given that it's a reflective surface.


I only get a short amount of sun light in the morning on that side of the house plus the siding was put up the third week of November and the neighbors house is not close enough to have any effect on my house. Also the only place the siding is warped is directly behind the discolored section of chimney pipe.


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## tae111 (Mar 3, 2016)

I am probably going to suck it up and use the electric heat for the rest of the year. I used a lift to put it up and the ground is probably too soft to get the equipment back there and I'm not going to try to do it with ladders


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## tae111 (Mar 3, 2016)

tae111 said:


> I am probably going to suck it up and use the electric heat for the rest of the year. I used a lift to put it up and the ground is probably too soft to get the equipment back there and I'm not going to try to do it with ladders
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That is the end of October. 3 weeks before the siding went on.


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## jatoxico (Mar 3, 2016)

jdp1152 said:


> You could be getting a double dose of heat from the chimney reflection given that it's a reflective surface.


Was going to ask if it was getting full sun exposure since I was thinking the same thing. Can't explain the discoloration and hollow sounding pipe section though.


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## Sprinter (Mar 3, 2016)

Well, at the risk of stating the obvious, _something_ got those lower sections too hot.  It seems very unlikely a chimney fire in the new chimney sections from what you've said, but something got the lower sections very hot and reaching 160 F two inches away from the chimney to warp the siding doesn't seem too hard to do.

It just seems to go back to the possibility of a past overfire or stovepipe fire from a previous creosote buildup.  I know that using straight bio brick products is somewhat controversial, especially in a cat stove, but it's hard to ignore the possibility of it being a contributing factor although you  seem to be on top of that.

However, the fact that thumping on the sections yields a hollower sound in the lower section (?) is very interesting too.  It would be very telling if you can determine if it was originally defective, or damaged from an overfire/stovepipe fire, or just a normal response for some reason.

I think you're right to stop burning until you can get everything evaluated properly.  But in any case,  you'll want to replace the siding in that location with Hardy Board or similar even when everything is sorted out.  Good luck.


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## tae111 (Mar 3, 2016)

Sprinter said:


> Well, at the risk of stating the obvious, _something_ got those lower sections too hot.  It seems very unlikely a chimney fire in the new chimney sections from what you've said, but something got the lower sections very hot and reaching 160 F two inches away from the chimney to warp the siding doesn't seem too hard to do.
> 
> It just seems to go back to the possibility of a past overfire or stovepipe fire from a previous creosote buildup.  I know that using straight bio brick products is somewhat controversial, especially in a cat stove, but it's hard to ignore the possibility of it being a contributing factor although you  seem to be on top of that.
> 
> ...


The hollow sound has me stumped as well I sent the pictures to Selkirk and they are trying to figure it out. Usually when you have a chimney fire it burns its way up not just one section. Also there is no sign of anything wrong when you look up the chimney. Also if you look at my stove picture you will notice the inside black stove pipe is not discolored at all. If there was a fire in there I think it would turn the black to grey but it still looks new


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## Sprinter (Mar 3, 2016)

Sounds like you're doing all the right things to figure it out.  It's an unusual enough problem to be interesting, so please let us know what happens through this thread.


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## St. Coemgen (Mar 4, 2016)

tae111 said:


> The chimney is a class A solid pack and has a 2" clearance requirement to combustibles. I have 2 3/4" with my set up. I also used the outside wall brackets and hardware that Supervent sells for this installation.



You are confusing combustion temperatures with melting temperatures. Melting temperatures are less than combustion temperatures. A candle mostly melts and drips all over the place from the heat of a flame, but does not combust (well a little on the wick does get hot enough to combust some wax to keep the candle lit). Your vinyl siding is doing something similar: melting due to the heat from the chimney, but not cumbusting. And doing it at the base because that is where the exhaust is the hottest.

I suggest to install a heat shield between the chimney and the siding. A flat sheet of galvanized steel with at least an inch of air space on each side should do the trick.


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## tae111 (Mar 4, 2016)

I am looking into making a heat shield up. It's amazing with so many houses having vinyl siding and no one is selling anything for this. Also all the mounting kits and  brackets sold by chimney companies seem to have the same 2" to 2.5" clearances.


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## begreen (Mar 4, 2016)

A heat shield will be treating the symptom, not the cause. The chimney pipe has overheated. The question is why. The lack of evidence in the stove pipe is not conclusive. You are doing the right thing by bringing in Selkirk. It could be there is a defective pipe there, but be open to the possibility that you may have had one or more runaway fires there when out or sleeping.


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## jetsam (Mar 4, 2016)

tae111 said:


> I am looking into making a heat shield up. It's amazing with so many houses having vinyl siding and no one is selling anything for this. Also all the mounting kits and  brackets sold by chimney companies seem to have the same 2" to 2.5" clearances.



If you want easy,  you could put a 4 large siding blocks behind the pipe,  screw a couple strips of 1/4" Hardiebacker to the blocks, paint it all the siding color  and call it a day.   This would mostly hide the damaged siding without replacing it,  too.


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## tae111 (Mar 4, 2016)

The possibility of having a runaway fire is pretty remote but probably not impossible. I have checked the stove for any air leaks and it is sealed up tight. The air intake is never left open more than 1/4 to 1/2 turn. The chimney itself has no creosote buildup. The only place that may get going and I can't see is the black stove pipe inside the house. It was new in November and all the connections are tight and supplemented with stove gasket cement. The only change I made from the old set up is the insulated pipe that goes through the wall was changed from 12" to 18". I am crazy about safety and always try to do everything in my power to make sure things are set up correctly. This stove will not be started up again until all the issues are resolved and I can trust all the equipment.


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## Chimney Smoke (Mar 4, 2016)

I have almost the exact same setup - vinyl siding and through the wall exposed double wall 18'.  When my flue gas is running 600-650 on a probe I can touch my exterior T and it's almost not even warm to the touch.


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## begreen (Mar 4, 2016)

That is pretty typical for exterior chimney. The pipe got very hot. The question is why?


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## tae111 (Mar 4, 2016)

Chimney Smoke said:


> I have almost the exact same setup - vinyl siding and through the wall exposed double wall 18'.  When my flue gas is running 600-650 on a probe I can touch my exterior T and it's almost not even warm to the touch.


That is how mine always was. When I saw the problem my stove was running and it was cool to the touch. It will probably be awhile before I get a chance to dismantle the chimney. Selkirk has the photos and wants that part back. So far they have said they will replace the piece for free but the cost to get to it and the cost to replace the siding are on me. I'm thinking that if it turns out to be a defective section they should cover everything it costs to replace it and the siding.


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## tae111 (Mar 4, 2016)

begreen said:


> That is pretty typical for exterior chimney. The pipe got very hot. The question is why?


I wish I could post the video of me tapping the different sections but the file is too large. The tee and the section above it have a thud sound. The discolored section has a ring like your hitting an empty oil can no matter where you tap it.


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## begreen (Mar 4, 2016)

Thud is good. Hollow ring, not good.


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## Sprinter (Mar 4, 2016)

tae111 said:


> I wish I could post the video of me tapping the different sections but the file is too large. The tee and the section above it have a thud sound. The discolored section has a ring like your hitting an empty oil can no matter where you tap it.


Could you upload the vid to youtube and post the link?  That's what I've done in the past.


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## Sprinter (Mar 4, 2016)

It's hard for me to tell from the pics, but is that lower section the only one that's discolored? And is the vinyl directly adjacent to it the only vinyl that is warped?

If that's the case, then maybe the whole thing could be explained by a defective section?  That is, maybe even a normally hot fire could have overheated a defective section?

If that turns out to be the case, I'd agree that they should fix the siding damage as well.


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## bholler (Mar 4, 2016)

tae111 said:


> The chimney itself has no creosote buildup.


There is absolutly some creosote buildup in there.  Not allot but surly enough to burn.  Honestly i think you have a defective pipe section.  But by the look of your chimney your stove is not burning like it should especially with compressed blocks.


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## Hogwildz (Mar 6, 2016)

Trade out the lower "hollow" sounding section(s), for a good top section(s), see if any further melting stops.
Most stove manufacturers would recommend against burning the bricks, let alone constant loads of bricks only for any extended period of time.
I have no experience with the bricks, but have read enough times, where they had to be mixed with wood splits, due to some issues with them burning super hot. Unless you are monitoring the stove 24/7, you really have no clue how hot it is burning while your away from it.
I can shut the insert here down at 250, 300, 400, and in time, it will always run up to 700+ on its own with air all the way to low.
Does pipe manufacturer know your running the bricks in that thing? Not sure if that would affect warranty or not?
There are only a couple few of why that is happening.
The stove is burning run too hot for whatever reason, or the pipe is no good or failing, or a combo of both.


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## kennyp2339 (Mar 6, 2016)

Hey Hog haven't heard from you in a while, how's the back doing?


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## Hogwildz (Mar 7, 2016)

kennyp2339 said:


> Hey Hog haven't heard from you in a while, how's the back doing?


The back ain't too bad, until I work on the house or something. I just get used to getting old, the aches that grow with age, and keep chugging along.


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## tae111 (Oct 13, 2016)

Well it took me awhile but I finally got around to replacing the bottom section of chimney pipe. The inside of the pipe is intact and not warped but the insulation inside  seems to be gone . Seems like it is burnt up.  I would think that whatever they use for insulation would be able to stand up to any heat without disintegrating even with a chimney fire.  I made a heat shield out of aluminum soffit sections and spaced it between the chimney and siding. In the picture it looks like the heat shield is touching the siding but it is actually halfway between the chimney and siding all the way up.


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## tae111 (Oct 13, 2016)

The old SuperVent chimney that I replaced had been up for nearly 30 years. In that time I had a few chimney fires that burned all they way up the chimney. That was before the new siding. Even after all that time the insulation of the old piped was still intact when I took it down.


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