# Napoleon 1100CP install



## DiscoInferno (Oct 15, 2009)

This is rather late to be posted, given that the install was completed in January 2009.  Just laziness on my part.  Back in Oct. 2008 construction started on a 2nd-floor addition on our house, and I knew the Ultima wouldn't be enough to heat it.  Also it's a very long path from the Ultima to the addition.  So I decided to install a small stove on the first floor under the addition, which puts it and the Ultima on opposite corners of the house.  I chose the Napoleon because it was a good price for a cast-iron-look stove and could be placed very close (2") to the walls in a corner install.  I got the stove right as construction was starting and did some break-in fires in the driveway, see https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/25407/.

Here's the chimney ceiling support viewed from the first floor.  Although this was existing structure, it basically got gutted also.
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv149/drmrvh/Napoleon_1100CP_Install/04ec5c85.jpg

Here's the chimney, attic insulation shield, and the chase framing on the second floor.  It's Hart & Cooley insulated class-A.
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv149/drmrvh/Napoleon_1100CP_Install/1256d912.jpg

And here's the chimney install up on the roof:
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv149/drmrvh/Napoleon_1100CP_Install/a2e651c9.jpg

The old flooring where the stove will sit was carpet, so I initially planned to tile a minimal hearth section.  But then the wife says, why not just tile that whole half of the room (10' x 12').  Having never done floor tile before I say sure, no problem.   :-S  So then I pull up the carpet and proceed to actually check out the state of the floor.  This room was an option in these houses, it can be a garage or a carport or just a room like ours.  It had only about 3/4" of plywood, so I glued and nailed down another 1/2" of plywood first.  Then I checked if it was flat and level - it was neither.  Lots of high and low spots, but what was worse was that it had a clear slope from one end to the other, with around 2" height difference.  Actually it had two slopes, a mild one from the back to about 5' from the front, and then a steeper slope.  The ceiling was dead level, so the issue wasn't settling.  I finally figured out that they had poured a sloping garage slab for all the houses, and only later decided what to build on it!  This meant I couldn't use a self-leveling compound, because it would take far too much and would raise the floor 2" at the front, blocking an exterior door.  Instead I decided to settle for flat with a constant slope, bringing up the steeper slope to match the milder slope and filling in the low spots.  I did this by first mapping the floor with 1/4" contour lines (using a level and an 8' 2x4 with a straight edge), putting down layers of 1/4" cement board to match the contours, and then filling and feathering the rest with thinset.  Here's a pic of this work in progress, there are up to 3 layers of cement board in places, and bare plywood in others.  I wanted at least 1 layer of cement board everywhere, but that extra 1/4" would start to block the doorway. 
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv149/drmrvh/Napoleon_1100CP_Install/3dddf6ca.jpg

I don't really recommend this approach, it was extremely time-intensive.  I had to do a couple of thinset layers and screeding passes (with the 2x4) after the cement board to get the whole thing flat.  The right way I gather is to lay and screed a mortar bed (not thinset).  Part of why I worked this hard was that we wanted to use 16" tile.  I still used a 1/2" notch trowel to be safe.  Here's the first few rows in:
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv149/drmrvh/Napoleon_1100CP_Install/05cc44b3.jpg

And here is the floor right after grouting (you can still see the haze).  Note that this actually wasn't done until much later, after the construction and painting was done.
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv149/drmrvh/Napoleon_1100CP_Install/c82fd647.jpg

Finally, the stove is installed:
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv149/drmrvh/Napoleon_1100CP_Install/8c6ee9a1.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv149/drmrvh/Napoleon_1100CP_Install/ecd2e588.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv149/drmrvh/Napoleon_1100CP_Install/930b61e4.jpg
I've got pretty much minimum clearances everywhere, and I'm using a pipe shield to reduce the single-wall clearance to 14".  The walls get quite warm, but not dangerously so.

(cont. in next post)


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## DiscoInferno (Oct 15, 2009)

(cont. from previous post)

I knew that the way the addition was laid out that it would never heat properly without an additional air path.  The obvious solution was a register right above the stove, but most members here know this is usually discouraged for safety and code reasons.  Code wasn't an issue, surprisingly; in fact, the inspector suggested I do it and didn't even care about a fire damper.  Even though it's not a bedroom or between any bedrooms and the stairs, I wanted a safe install.  So I got a fusible-link fire damper and installed it in the opening; in the event of a fire a steel curtain will spring closed:
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv149/drmrvh/Napoleon_1100CP_Install/e0a19045.jpg
I also have smoke and CO detectors in both rooms.

Here are the finished ceiling and floor registers:
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv149/drmrvh/Napoleon_1100CP_Install/d27bb038.jpg
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/vv149/drmrvh/Napoleon_1100CP_Install/d6bc1657.jpg

I wasn't entirely sure this would actually work as intended, I thought that perhaps the cold air upstairs would drop down rather than the hot air rising.  I actually bought two sets of damper/registers to install in case one wasn't enough.  But that was quite unnecessary - the heat just shoots up though the register, and I can easily overheat the addition if I'm not careful.  The cold air returns down the central stairway.


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## btj1031 (Oct 15, 2009)

Sweet setup.  Thanks for sharing the detailed account of how you got there.


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## LLigetfa (Oct 15, 2009)

Nice looking setup but it looks awful close to the wall and the window.

How much did the fusible damper set you back?  I inquired about a small 3x10 damper locally and they quoted me $100.


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## DiscoInferno (Oct 15, 2009)

It is close, but it's allowed to be 2" in a corner install.  The cast iron back, sides, and top are basically heat shields that form a convection chamber around a steel stove.  So the surface temp never gets that high.  The white trim and the white shade on the windows (not visible) never get more than slightly warm since they reflect most of the remaining radiant heat.  The darker walls do heat up, but mostly due to the pipe and not next to the stove itself.  I forget now what the rule of thumb is for safe wall temp, but I checked with my IR thermometer under full burn last year and it was under the limit.

The 14"x14" damper cost me $30 from http://www.atlantasupply.com (the 10"x14" floor register cost $40).  It didn't come with a duct/sleeve, so I had to kind of manufacture one.  The install directions for these dampers are not geared towards residential installs (and I never found any that were), so I had to really improvise to try to come up with something in the same spirit of the damper "floating" in the firestop opening.  Basically I think it will outlast the surrounding 1/2" drywall in a fire but I'm sure it would not pass commercial fire code.


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## n3pro (Oct 16, 2009)

Thanks for the update, nice, nice setup.  Wish I had that motivation, could have saved me a lot of money.


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