# Building a chase questions?



## Michael Golden (May 18, 2013)

I am gonna be building a chase in a week and I have a few questions about materials and support. This chase will be covered in veneer stone so there will be a good bit of weight. Question One......I have seen where they hang all this weight off the side of the house, is this a good idea? Or should I dig in a couple tubes and make a footer to support some of this weight? Question Two......should I use treated lumber with marine grade plywood or would treated plywood be just fine? Question Three......should I cover the wood with house or tar paper before I put the metal mesh over it?

Thanks,
Mike


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## webby3650 (May 18, 2013)

If you are gonna cantilever the chase, you will need to be able to run floor joists into the envelope of the home and tie them into the rest of the structure. This is very difficult to add to an existing structure. This is typically done on new construction. If you can't do that, you will really need to dig down below the frost line and pour a footer, set a block wall and then build the chase ontop of that. Otherwise the chase and the house will expand and contract  at different rates with each season.
You will want to use a piece of treated plywood fro the floor of the chase, the other framing can be construction grade lumber. I often see cantilevered chases with OSB floors, the OSB is just left uncovered on the bottom, exposed to the elements. It will only hold up for a few years like that. 
You should put tar paper over the sheathing then put the lathe on over that.

I suppose if the tubes went very deep, beyond the frost line, it might be just fine. ?


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## webby3650 (May 18, 2013)

I just noticed your stove. Is the chase just for a 6" chimney? If so I would think the chase could be supported by the house with no problems. I assumed it was for a fireplace.


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## Michael Golden (May 19, 2013)

Yes the chase is just going 6" double pipe. But, with the stone there will be quite a bit of weight won't there? I also thought about building a steel bracket almost like a air conditioner bracket and attach this into the poured walls of the basemen? Would this be a good idea?


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## Michael Golden (May 19, 2013)

I guess I should say that this chase is gonna be pretty good size! It will be app. 5' x 2' x 20'......should be around 200 sq. ft. Of stone.


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## webby3650 (May 19, 2013)

Is it that wide just just for ascetics? It will look good, that's for sure. Being that big, I really think it should have it own footing though. The steel might work just fine, but it might not too.


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## Michael Golden (May 19, 2013)

webby3650 said:


> Is it that wide just just for ascetics? It will look good, that's for sure. Being that big, I really think it should have it own footing though. The steel might work just fine, but it might not too.



Yep just aesthetics! I think I may just go the steel route, I think 3 x 3 x1/4 angle will be strong enough along with tying it back in to the house. What do you think? I would go with the footing but with it being a newer house I don't know if everything is done settling, it has only been through one winter!


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## fossil (May 19, 2013)

You need to be talking with a Professional Engineer about this. Or at least a Licensed Contractor.  Rick


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## Michael Golden (May 19, 2013)

fossil said:


> You need to be talking with a Professional Engineer about this.  Rick



You are probably right! But, my plan is just to over build it.....may even pour some concrete tubes just for ease of mind!


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## infinitymike (May 19, 2013)

I assume it is cultured stone? It can average between 8-12 pounds per square foot so anywhere from 1600 lbs to 2400lbs.
Three  steel brackets bolted to the foundation could probably hold it. 
Use the brackets to hold a floor system made from 2x6's
Then build the walls on that. Attach the 2x4's on each side wall to the existing house and lag bolt it to the box beam of the first floor then the top plates of the wall, the second floor box beam and second floor top plates (if there is a second floor).
Then when you sheath the side walls nail it every four inches plus the lagged in 2x4 will help hang the framing as well.
You can use all regular framing materials but definitely need to put tar paper on before the lath.
I would build the floor system with a piece of painted plywood on the bottom then place that on the brackets and bolt it to the house box beam then put another piece of plywood on top and build the walls on that. Of course run the flue pipe before you sheath the walls.


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## fossil (May 19, 2013)

And if it fails in any way, just contact infinitymike.  He'll fix it all up for ya, I'm sure.


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## infinitymike (May 19, 2013)

fossil said:


> And if it fails in any way, just contact infinitymike.  He'll fix it all up for ya, I'm sure.


If he builds like I suggested he'll only be contacting me to thank me


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## pyroholic (May 19, 2013)

webby3650 said:


> If you are gonna cantilever the chase, you will need to be able to run floor joists into the envelope of the home and tie them into the rest of the structure. This is very difficult to add to an existing structure. This is typically done on new construction. If you can't do that, you will really need to dig down below the frost line and pour a footer, set a block wall and then build the chase ontop of that. Otherwise the chase and the house will expand and contract at different rates with each season.
> You will want to use a piece of treated plywood fro the floor of the chase, the other framing can be construction grade lumber. I often see cantilevered chases with OSB floors, the OSB is just left uncovered on the bottom, exposed to the elements. It will only hold up for a few years like that.
> You should put tar paper over the sheathing then put the lathe on over that.
> 
> I suppose if the tubes went very deep, beyond the frost line, it might be just fine. ?


 

^^ This is the correct answer.  Framing and remodeling houses is what I do for a living.  Ideally something should be in the ground below frost line.  Would it hold up without?  Maybe.... Probably..., but maybe not.  Build the chit out of it and hope for the best.  Keep us posted, with pics.


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## ironpony (May 20, 2013)

O.K I am going to help out a fellow Buckeye. I am a licensed contractor, first off you are not going to attempt to "hang" 2400 lbs off the side of your house. You are going to do it correctly. After you locate where the chase is going to be, first is to remove the band board in that section , revealing the tails of the floor joists. Then you are going to size the joists to match existing. To frame a cantilever, for each one foot of cant you MUST have 3 feet of joist under the house, so for 2 feet of cant you will have 6 feet under the house, 8 foot joist. You will sister these to all the joists exposed and each outside rim will go under the house and be attached to a header between the 2 end floor joists. this will create a platform to build the chase on. From here up will be standard framing practice. You will tar paper before applying lath and scratch coat for attaching stone.


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## ironpony (May 20, 2013)

fossil said:


> And if it fails in any way, just contact infinitymike. He'll fix it all up for ya, I'm sure.


 





have to agree


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## ironpony (May 20, 2013)

infinitymike said:


> I assume it is cultured stone? It can average between 8-12 pounds per square foot so anywhere from 1600 lbs to 2400lbs.
> *Three steel brackets bolted to the foundation could probably hold it.*
> Use the brackets to hold a floor system made from 2x6's
> Then build the walls on that. Attach the 2x4's on each side wall to the existing house and lag bolt it to the box beam of the first floor then the top plates of the wall, the second floor box beam and second floor top plates (if there is a second floor).
> ...


 






not very convincing..........................


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## Michael Golden (May 20, 2013)

ironpony said:


> O.K I am going to help out a fellow Buckeye. I am a licensed contractor, first off you are not going to attempt to "hang" 2400 lbs off the side of your house. You are going to do it correctly. After you locate where the chase is going to be, first is to remove the band board in that section , revealing the tails of the floor joists. Then you are going to size the joists to match existing. To frame a cantilever, for each one foot of cant you MUST have 3 feet of joist under the house, so for 2 feet of cant you will have 6 feet under the house, 8 foot joist. You will sister these to all the joists exposed and each outside rim will go under the house and be attached to a header between the 2 end floor joists. this will create a platform to build the chase on. From here up will be standard framing practice. You will tar paper before applying lath and scratch coat for attaching stone.



What if my floor joists run perpendicular to my future chimney?


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## fossil (May 20, 2013)

You'll need to rotate your house 90°.


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## Michael Golden (May 20, 2013)

Should re-word that, the joists run parallel with the wall the chase will be built on!


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## Michael Golden (May 20, 2013)

Didn't plan on the chase thing, but the wife wants that pipe hidden!


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## webby3650 (May 20, 2013)

Michael Golden said:


> Didn't plan on the chase thing, but the wife wants that pipe hidden!


To have it done properly, expect to spend between $8-$10K. Does she mind the look of that pipe that much?


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## Michael Golden (May 20, 2013)

Well I don't plan on spending that type of money! But I have been given two ways to go with this, and I'm guessing they both think there way is the proper way. This is why I love this site because there are many knowledgable people here. I will post some pictures once I get going on this project.


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## infinitymike (May 20, 2013)

Michael Golden said:


> What if my floor joists run perpendicular to my future chimney?


C'mon iron pony, now what?


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## ironpony (May 20, 2013)

Michael Golden said:


> Should re-word that, the joists run parallel with the wall the chase will be built on!


 




well reframing the floor joists and adding the necessary structure is probably beyond the average DIY project.
Your best option would be to dig down 36 inches and pour a footer then lay block back up to your foundation height.
frame new floor joists and build on top of that.


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## infinitymike (May 20, 2013)

I've been a framing contractor for 29 years. I've been framing 4000-15000 square foot homes for 25 of those years. 
I've seen many new homes where the foundation was so out of square there wasn't enough of the brick shelf left. 
The mason contractor would bolt a 4"x4"x3/8" angle iron the length of the wall and support two stories of real brick. 
3 brackets welded in triangles,  made from 4x4x3/8 angle and bolted with 5/8" rod drilled all the way through the foundation wall with a 4x4 plate on the inside of the basement will hold up a more then 2400 lbs. now I only say that if its a poured foundation. If its block forget it. 

Then there are two options. Double up a floor joist about 4 feet back from the wall. Build 4 temporary support walls under the floor joists. 
Cut out a 3.25" chunk out of the flor joists where you will then put a header that will cantilever out the 2' 
Teco all the joists and frame the chase. 

Or put two 10" sono tubes in the ground 3' and out of the ground a few inches. Set an anchor bolt to attach a Simpson Post base bracket. Install a 4x4 post level with the top of the foundation and put your header on that. Lag a ledger joist to the house box and frame your 19.5 inch floor joists from the ledger beam out to the header. 
Plywood the deck, frame the walls, bla bla bla.


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## webby3650 (May 20, 2013)

infinitymike said:


> I've seen many new homes where the foundation was so out of square there wasn't enough of the brick shelf left. The mason contractor would bolt a 4"x4"x3/8" angle iron the length of the wall and support two stories of real brick. 3 brackets welded in triangles, made from 4x4x3/8 angle and bolted with 5/8" rod drilled all the way through the foundation wall with a 4x4 plate on the inside of the basement will hold up a more then 2400 lbs.


What a hack job!!
I'm sure this happens occasionally and if the person that was having the house built knew about this, it would not fly. Very uncraftsman like!
The truth is, it might hold up just long enough for the Mason and the builder to be long gone, but no where near as long as it should have. A reputible builder wouldn't let it side by, that's for sure!


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## pyroholic (May 21, 2013)

Hack job... Maybe, buy it does happen.  It all comes down to the foundation guy.  When framing the house you have to build to the blueprint and make it square.  If you follow the foundation your trusses don't fit right (affects heel height which affects overhang height [or length] which is bad).  If its not square you lose rows of tile and hardwood.  Both glaring signs of inexperience or they just don't care.

All in all the steel lentil can the lesser of two evils and does pass inspection.  That said,  I wouldn't use steel lentil on my house to hold up more brick than necessary, such as over windows and doors.


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## infinitymike (May 21, 2013)

webby3650 said:


> What a hack job!!
> I'm sure this happens occasionally and if the person that was having the house built knew about this, it would not fly. Very uncraftsman like!
> The truth is, it might hold up just long enough for the Mason and the builder to be long gone, but no where near as long as it should have. A reputible builder wouldn't let it side by, that's for sure!


 
Well they have lasted far longer then that. Some go back as far as 12 years and still not one crack.
I've seen this about 4 times, The first time I saw this happen the builder called in a structural engineer and that was his suggestion. Rather then dig out the foundation and run 4" block up from the footing this was just as strong and less expensive.
But I guess if he wanted to be a jerk he could have forced the foundation contractor to eat it. I think the builder was pretty far to all parties, and still has a good reputation between his clients and his sub's. In fact I still frame for him and see alot of the houses I have done for him over the years, they look as good as they day the people moved in.


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## webby3650 (May 21, 2013)

Well, like I said, it won't last as long as it should. 12 years isn't any kind of a track record. 99% of home owners or customers would ever purchase a home if they knew that the bricks were perched on a bracket.


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## infinitymike (May 21, 2013)

webby3650 said:


> Well, like I said, it won't last as long as it should. 12 years isn't any kind of a track record. 99% of home owners or customers would ever purchase a home if they knew that the bricks were perched on a bracket.


 
I guess you might want to read this.

http://www.jlconline.com/framing/supporting-brick-veneer-on-wood-framing.aspx

If its good enough to support full size bricks on a steel angle bolted into wood framing then I'm sure its good enough to support lightweight cultured stone on a steel angle bolted into a concrete foundation.


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## infinitymike (May 21, 2013)

Just in case you want to do a little more reading.

http://www.gobrick.com/portals/25/docs/technical notes/tn28.pdf


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## infinitymike (May 21, 2013)

ironpony said:


> not very convincing..........................


 
convinced?


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## infinitymike (May 21, 2013)

infinitymike said:


> If he builds like I suggested he'll only be contacting me to thank me


 
I'll quote myself,  in case you guys forgot


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## ScotO (May 21, 2013)

I'll throw my hat into the ring here, as I just finished up my hearth and chase.  And it's massive....and it's REAL stone veneer (very very heavy).....over 20' high, too.

Lots of good info in this post.  But, keep in mind, you local codes.  That's whats going to make a big difference.  From an inspection standpoint, and even an insurance standpoint.  But most of all, you want that thing to last, to look nice, to be safe for you and your family to be around......do it right the first time.

I dug a footer off of the foundation (almost 10" below frost line, just to be safe), built a rebar skeleton that is tied into the original stone/poured concrete foundation (which is sound and in excellent shape).  Then I [poured it solid with concrete.  Being I was using natural stone veneer, I wanted it MEGA strong....  At grade, I built up a block foundation for the chase, matching it up to the header board on the original house.  I built a joist floor in the chase, then built 2x6" walls, 16" on centers, to the shape of the chase....

The walls connected to the house (both side walls of the chase) were bolted to the house with internal supports that are tied into the interior walls (actually they are laminated 2x6" beams).  Yeah, I know.....Overkill......I didn't get my name fer nothing!!

I'll go up on my PC and load up some pics of my chase on this thread (don't have my laptop networked to the PC).......


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## infinitymike (May 21, 2013)

Scotty, I'm with ya all the way. And agree the ultimate way is to pour a concrete foundation and go from there.
But there are other alternatives that may not be as astecially pleasing but will be structrual sound and cost affective.

I always say anyone can design a bridge that  can stand, but it takes a smart engineer to design one that you can afford to build.


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## ScotO (May 21, 2013)

Here's some pics of our build.  First couple are of the foundation.  Luckily my one buddy has a little Kubota, and that did a nice job not tearing our yard up....you can also see the skeleton of rebar I built.  And just for a little more overkill, I drilled and tied it into the old foundation, and WELDED it all together.....it's friggin strong....









I poured the entire footer with concrete.  It was faster and easier to do that instead of block.  I then built block up to match the existing foundation....Matched the floor joists/flooring of the new chase foundation up with the existing flooring on my house.  The flooring is comprised of a pressure treated header and 2x8" joists, 16" on center...






Then, we stick built the chase out of 2x6's....
We had to do some engineering to get the proper taper for the top of the chase.  We wanted a colonial-look to the chase, kind of a "cabin in the woods" fireplace....





more pics on the next post...


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## ScotO (May 21, 2013)

Here's the chase before being wrapped with tar paper and after. MAKE SURE YOU USE THE 30LB PAPER, NOT THE 15LB PAPER.....DON'T SHORTCUT THIS STEP!!  I overlapped my tar paper by half a sheet, installing it from the bottom (it's overlapped like shingles) so in effect it's almost like two full layers of 30lb tar paper. 






After tar paper, install your lath. Again, I overkilled it. I used #14 x 2" screws with a fender washer on them, so as to not let the lath pull around the screw.....after that, a scratchcoat of mortar, and used a scarifying tool (looks like a little rake) to texture the mortar....




Finally, when the weather, time, and money permitted, I did the natural stone veneer.....picture of the stones laid out in my driveway, where I could wash them off good and pick-n-choose from them. When doing stone, try to work from the top-down. Keeps all that sloppy mortar from hoggin up your hard work below.....

I went back in and grouted the joints after the stone set up for a day or so......







Finally, after over a year of off-and-on work, we had the chase ready...




I'm not saying you got to do yours the exact same way we did ours, just showing you how I did mine. It's holding up like it was built yesterday, too. Don't rush yourself or short change your project. If you need to take time out to save some money or whatever to do it right, then do it that way. Make a lasting project that is safe and enjoyable for many years to come.....


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## ScotO (May 21, 2013)

infinitymike said:


> Scotty, I'm with ya all the way. And agree the ultimate way is to pour a concrete foundation and go from there.
> But there are other alternatives that may not be as astecially pleasing but will be structrual sound and cost affective.
> 
> I always say anyone can design a bridge that can stand, but it takes a smart engineer to design one that you can afford to build.


I'm not bustin your chops, Mike.  I agree, there are many ways to build this chase.  But if it's gonna be really big, and really heavy, I'd be recommending a footered foundation.  Just my opinion.....again, not saying it can't be done differently...


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## webby3650 (May 21, 2013)

infinitymike said:


> I guess you might want to read this.
> 
> http://www.jlconline.com/framing/supporting-brick-veneer-on-wood-framing.aspx
> 
> If its good enough to support full size bricks on a steel angle bolted into wood framing then I'm sure its good enough to support lightweight cultured stone on a steel angle bolted into a concrete foundation.


I never said the angle iron idea wouldn't hold up the chase with the stone veneer. It likely will, but footings would be better, for sure.  But who in the world would want all the full brick on their house held up with iron bolted through 4x4's, or whatever you were suggesting earlier. 

Great job Scotty! What a great example of a properly built chase.


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## infinitymike (May 21, 2013)

webby3650 said:


> I never said the angle iron idea wouldn't hold up the chase with the stone veneer. It likely will, but footings would be better, for sure. But who in the world would want all the full brick on their house held up with iron bolted through 4x4's, or whatever you were suggesting earlier.
> .


 
I believe this is what you said and it sure sounds like you don't think it would hold up.


webby3650 said:


> What a hack job!! I'm sure this happens occasionally and if the person that was having the house built knew about this, it would not fly. Very uncraftsman like! The truth is, it might hold up just long enough for the Mason and the builder to be long gone, but no where near as long as it should have. A reputible builder wouldn't let it side by, that's for sure!


 
And I'm not the one making up these suggestions, I'm just relaying the common practices in the building industry that are acceptable by the codes and building product manufactures themselves, hence the links to the professional sites.


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## infinitymike (May 21, 2013)

I'm not trying to make this a pissing contest so lets all agree that a concrete foundation is the best way to go, but there are definitely other options that can be considered.


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## ScotO (May 21, 2013)

I hope I didn't pizz anyone off.  Wasn't my intentions.  Just wanted to show the footered foundation idea, being the OP said he was building a stone-clad chase.  I agree Mike, there are alternative methods. 

Lets all pull in for a 'group hug'........lots of different ways to skin a cat.....


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## infinitymike (May 21, 2013)

BTW, Beautiful work Scotty. But how in the world do you get anything done when you have almost 6 times the amount of posts I have and you joined a month after me.


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## ScotO (May 21, 2013)

infinitymike said:


> BTW, Beautiful work Scotty. But how in the world do you get anything done when you have almost 6 times the amount of posts I have and you joined a month after me.


Thanks for the compliments, brother....
Honestly, I can't answer that question!!
Um.....I can type really REALLY fast, and only get a couple hours of sleep a night?


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## infinitymike (May 21, 2013)

Scotty Overkill said:


> Thanks for the compliments, brother....
> Honestly, I can't answer that question!!
> Um.....I can type really REALLY fast, and only get a couple hours of sleep a night?


 
You kill me or should I say overkill me!

And I totally agree with the last line of your sig.


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## pyroholic (May 22, 2013)

Scotty, that is a massive chase.  Looks great!  I'd be willing to bet that thing will outlast us, our children, and their children's children.

Pretty sure you could park an Abrams Tank up there


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## Michael Golden (May 22, 2013)

Thanks for the feedback! And Scotty that is pretty awesome!


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## ScotO (May 22, 2013)

pyroholic said:


> Scotty, that is a massive chase.  Looks great!  I'd be willing to bet that thing will outlast us, our children, and their children's children.
> 
> Pretty sure you could park an Abrams Tank up there


thanks, Pyro!  My Great-Great-Grandfather and Great-Grandfathers built the house around 1918, I wanted to add to that hoping my kids or grandkids can someday inherit the house and continue to enjoy it.  Being its veneered with natural stone, I'm betting it weighs up in the 10,000lb+ range.  I wanted to be sure it lasted and lasted well.....


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## ScotO (May 22, 2013)

One thing I wanted to mention is that with man-made  stone veneer, if it is properly installed, the "brick ledge" isn't as important ask it is with brick facing.  When installing a stone veneer, its more "attached" to the substrate, that's where the strength is.  Properly prepared substrate (metal lath attached to the framing with proper fasteners every 6-8" on studs and wallboard), along with a proper scratchcoat, and the grout you put between the stone, provides the real strength of the stone wall.  Natural stone can be a bit trickier, as it is heavier.  Bit you will STILL have a great deal of weight that will need to be supported by a proper foundation (be it a footered foundation or another system).  Just remember, buildings, relationships, businesses, etc.......all of the good ones are built on solid foundations!


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## Michael Golden (May 22, 2013)

Scotty Overkill said:


> One thing I wanted to mention is that with man-made  stone veneer, if it is properly installed, the "brick ledge" isn't as important ask it is with brick facing.  When installing a stone veneer, its more "attached" to the substrate, that's where the strength is.  Properly prepared substrate (metal lath attached to the framing with proper fasteners every 6-8" on studs and wallboard), along with a proper scratchcoat, and the grout you put between the stone, provides the real strength of the stone wall.  Natural stone can be a bit trickier, as it is heavier.  Bit you will STILL have a great deal of weight that will need to be supported by a proper foundation (be it a footered foundation or another system).  Just remember, buildings, relationships, businesses, etc.......all of the good ones are built on solid foundations!



Boy isn't that last sentence the truth!


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## Michael Golden (Aug 7, 2013)

Well it is long over due, I have the chimney done just have to get the cap made and clean up the door.


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## Michael Golden (Aug 7, 2013)

Forgot to mention once the cap is made I will have just about 2k in the whole build plus a boat load of time!


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## BrotherBart (Aug 7, 2013)

Wow! Beautiful.


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## ScotO (Aug 7, 2013)

That chase is GORGEOUS!  Very nicely done.....I know the work involved, that looks fantastic.


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## Michael Golden (Aug 7, 2013)

Scotty Overkill said:


> That chase is GORGEOUS!  Very nicely done.....I know the work involved, that looks fantastic.



I know you do Scotty!


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## Michael Golden (Aug 7, 2013)

BrotherBart said:


> Wow! Beautiful.



Thanks it was a lot of work, I appreciate the coment.


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## fossil (Aug 7, 2013)

Very nice, indeed. Rick


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## webby3650 (Aug 7, 2013)

Looks real nice! What kind of cover are you going to use? I think that beauty is worthy of nothing but Stainless Steel! You can get SS covers powder coated any color you want from places like Olympic or National Chimney Supply. You local Hearth store should have access to 'em. Or, just plain SS would look great! Thats my favorite color!


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## ScotO (Aug 7, 2013)

webby3650 said:


> Looks real nice! What kind of cover are you going to use? I think that beauty is worthy of nothing but Stainless Steel! You can get SS covers powder coated any color you want from places like Olympic or National Chimney Supply. You local Hearth store should have access to 'em. Or, just plain SS would look great! Thats my favorite color!


That's what I used, but boy oh boy....I sure wish I could have afforded a copper one.  A local fabrication shop did the job for me (out of stainless) and I couldn't be happier with the job.  All TIG-welded together, it'll outlive the rest of the house.....


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## Michael Golden (Aug 7, 2013)

Honestly I'm not even sure where to get one made! There is a Amish guy out the road that does a lot of chimney work and I thought about having him make something. Right now I'm just taking it in, but I need to get that cap done ASAP because I know burning weather will be here before I know it!


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## Michael Golden (Aug 7, 2013)

Copper would be awesome, but with stainless sticking out the top may look weird?


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## ScotO (Aug 7, 2013)

Michael Golden said:


> Honestly I'm not even sure where to get one made! There is a Amish guy out the road that does a lot of chimney work and I thought about having him make something. Right now I'm just taking it in, but I need to get that cap done ASAP because I know burning weather will be here before I know it!


Check around for metal fabrication shops.  If you aren't sure where to start looking, contact some local roofers.  They get flashing made all of the time from metal fab shops and such.  Things like step flashing, specialty flashing, chimney crickets, etc.....HVAC contractors also may be able to make you one.  Make sure you require that they weld or solder the stainless together to guarantee it never leaks.....


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## pyroholic (Aug 7, 2013)

Looks fantastic! Nice work!


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## Michael Golden (Aug 7, 2013)

It's gonna be a big cap, the chimney is approx. 5' wide 2' deep and 20' tall.


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## ScotO (Aug 7, 2013)

Michael Golden said:


> It's gonna be a big cap, the chimney is approx. 5' wide 2' deep and 20' tall.


Here's my cap.....it's around 5' x 4'.....


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## webby3650 (Aug 7, 2013)

Michael Golden said:


> 5' wide 2' deep


Thats not a big cap!  Thats actually a pretty common size cap. Most sweeps and hearth shops can get them at a pretty reasonable price. I'm not sure what a fab shop charges, but you can likely get a SS one from National Chimney for around $400. It'll have the hole in it and be cross broke.


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## webby3650 (Aug 7, 2013)

Here is my cap, it only cost $45 dollars! 
It's 6'x3'.


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## ScotO (Aug 7, 2013)

webby3650 said:


> Here is my cap, it only cost $45 dollars!
> It's 6'x3'.


I ain't gonna tell you what mine cost........
But, it's heavier guage stainless, all TIG-welded, and like I said it'll last a lifetime.  The storm collar extension and two storm collars were included in the fabrication as well.  In the end, it was done right and I was happy paying the price.  They did it in a hurry for me too (put me ahead of some other jobs because I wanted to get the install done over a couple of sunny days we had last fall).  That fab shop does some nice work.


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## BrotherBart (Aug 7, 2013)

My two flue chimney ain't near as big as you guys' but the crown is going to crap and I want to cap it with stainless. The problem I have is that one inch space between the tile flues sticking up thorough it. Guess I get it made to go around them and then silicone the crap out of the space between'em. I just cannot get into the crownseal thing. Especially with that large sheet of 304 stainless I have laying around.

And the fact that these old legs don't like roofs and ladders so much anymore.


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## infinitymike (Aug 7, 2013)

WOW!  That came out great!

Very nice work.

Do you have any progress pics and of the final way you decided to support it?


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## webby3650 (Aug 7, 2013)

BrotherBart said:


> My two flue chimney ain't near as big as you guys' but the crown is going to crap and I want to cap it with stainless. The problem I have is that one inch space between the tile flues sticking up thorough it. Guess I get it made to go around them and then silicone the crap out of the space between'em. I just cannot get into the crownseal thing. Especially with that large sheet of 304 stainless I have laying around.
> 
> And the fact that these old legs don't like roofs and ladders so much anymore.


 
Not to mention, a SS cover is not much more $ than a big bucket of Crown Coat.
Caulking between the flues will work, I've done it. I didn't prefer it, but there is really no other option in this situation.


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