# Summers Heat  3000 Sq. Ft. Wood Burning Furnace  can it be a stand alone ?



## bick65 (Dec 21, 2010)

Hi people 
Model #: 50-SHW35 
can it be a stand alone unit? Been  using wood my hole life just wondering if this will heat without duct work from another source or can I run duct work from this stove ?
just want one reg on first floor . No cold air return is my first ? has anybody used this as stand alone give me a yell back.

bick


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## savageactor7 (Dec 22, 2010)

Hi bick if you want a stand alone stove don't get that hideous monster. That's a stove you'd stick in a cellar ...like a crazy aunt.

Did you choose that model cause it's the only stove they have that will heat 3K? If that true then you might want to look for a Englander 30NC. It made by the same people and Lowes must have it available threw order.

Now if you do want Mod 50...I dunno anything requiring duck work isn't my lane. 

Anyway good luck.


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## Badfish740 (Dec 22, 2010)

bick65 said:
			
		

> Hi people
> Model #: 50-SHW35
> can it be a stand alone unit? Been  using wood my hole life just wondering if this will heat without duct work from another source or can I run duct work from this stove ?
> just want one reg on first floor . No cold air return is my first ? has anybody used this as stand alone give me a yell back.
> ...



I have the same furnace-Englander has three brand names, Englander, Summers Heat, and Timber Ridge.  If you Google "Englander 28-3500 you'll find the same furnace.  You absolutely could run it as a standalone source of heat through duct work.  I have mine plumbed into the existing ductwork in my house (I have forced air oil heat) and it may as well be a standalone unit because I never use my oil furnace.  I don't have it connected to my cold air return because the duct work would have gotten too complicated.  It just draws air from the basement, but I did add a filter housing that I picked up at Tractor Supply Company.  It's actually made for a US Stove Company furnace, but the dimensions were close enough that I could hog out the mounting holes a little.  My wife has bad allergies, so being able to put a good quality air filter on there was important.  You can check out the thread on my install here:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/41418/


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## Badfish740 (Dec 22, 2010)

Hey mods can we move this one to the boiler room?  It'll probably get more responses there.


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## SmokingAndPoking (Dec 22, 2010)

The only issue you may have with this furnace as a standalone is the blower size.  The blower is rated for between 800 and 850 CFM at zero pressure loss.  If you have a large house and a lot of duct work, its possible this furnace might no be able to push the heat to the outer edges of your home.  That'd be the only reason though, otherwise go for it!  These are very good heating stoves.


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## bick65 (Dec 22, 2010)

I have a regancy upstairs we only want the summers heat to heat the basment and the master bedroom . There is a guitars shop in basment its hard to build and customers are not 
impressed when its 45 down there. Have a harmon mark 2 coal stove down there now and I hate it, 260 a ton for coal when I have plenty of wood.Also no duct work from coal stove 
made a bad buy when I went coal .


Thanks Bick


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## bob burke (Sep 30, 2014)

Old thread, I know.  But...I'm about to purchase this stove for my shop.  My old water tank wood stove has finally gotten to the point where it's scrap metal now.  I'll miss it, as I can stuff 28 inch logs in it, but this furnace has the added plus of having the large blower system included.  Previously, I made a makeshift plenum to go on my stove, and pull the heat into the shop via fans.  (Stove sits outside the shop, in an attached shed that was built specifically for the system.)

The only issue I've read about, is in the event of a power loss, the stove can overheat, and ruin the unit.  I see battery backups are available, or I can just start my generator.

Still, even though the firebox is smaller than my current stove, I'm hoping this stove works out for me.

Can anyone give me any info re. how long I can expect the small firebox to keep heat pumping overnight?  I think they're rated for up to 9 hours.


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## mustash29 (Oct 1, 2014)

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/englander-28-3500-furnace-install-mods.102100/

Good unit.  Check out my thread for a few cheap & easy mods that work well.

Unless you are hooked up to very restrictive duct work, you should have some natural circulation during a power loss.  I don't think you will melt the stove.  Cheap duct work may be a different story though.

I've run it for 1.5 seasons.  It cooks us out of our 1800 sqft.

Burnt < 4 cord of dry oak last winter.  Single digits or below I keep the oil on in back up mode to prevent a potential problem area (4' overhang above garage doors, a 22 foot span) piping from freezing.

It will BELT out heat for 8-9 hrs for us and hold coals for 12+.


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## bob burke (Oct 1, 2014)

mustash29 said:


> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/englander-28-3500-furnace-install-mods.102100/
> 
> Good unit.  Check out my thread for a few cheap & easy mods that work well.
> 
> ...


Thanks...I'll check your thread.  I'm using it in my shop...app 1500 square feet of uninsulated block walls.  I'm hoping that I'll save on wood with a new efficient unit.  Typically, I go through about 10 cords/year.  If I go out to stoke the stove at 10 p.m, I used to still have coals at 6. a.m.  I'm hoping to be able to make my last feeding at 9, as trudging outside in the cold tends to wake me up just before bed!

I'm not going into any duct work.  I'll have less than 10 feet of pipe attached to the stove.  Sounds like this stove will work well for me, judging by your results.


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