# Advice?  Rebuilding Lange 6302A Red Porcelain Wood Stove



## LuckyJim (Nov 27, 2013)

Hello everyone!

I bought a (Danish) Lange 6302A red porcelain coated, cast iron wood stove about 34 years ago, and still think it's the highest quality and most efficient wood stove I've ever seen.  It went unused for a number of years due to a geographical move, but I now want to install it in my son's new house now.  Before I do, I'd like to completely disassemble it, re-cement the panels and replace all the hardware.  That brings up two questions:

1) What do I use, standard boiler cement?

2) What type of hardware (screws & nuts) do I use?  Because Lange stopped exporting these fine stoves when the EPA started getting goofy back in the early '80s, I can't find any illustrated parts manuals, specs, or anything.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Jim


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## webbie (Nov 27, 2013)

Use black furnace cement - Rutland black is my old favorite. 

It is possible to squeeze it into the seams from the inside if you don't want to take the stove apart. However, if you decide to rebuild totally, you can simply use regular metric bolts from the hardware store or McMaster-Carr for the replacements. If you want to step up a grade, you can use hardened bolts for the leg mounting, etc. but regular should do the job just fine also.

You should be able to get enough of the old ones out to determine what the metric thread side is.


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## begreen (Nov 27, 2013)

Woodmans has parts and helpful diagrams for this stove. Enter the make and model of the stove here:
http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/68/catalogs/Wood-and-Coal-Stove-Manufacturers-Cross-Reference.html

You could give them a call to find out the metric thread pitch for the bolts.


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## LuckyJim (Dec 3, 2013)

Thanks Webbie & Begreen!

Sorry to take so long to respond, but I'm recuperating from a brain aneurysm I suffered 10/10/13, and some days I have more ambition than others.

I always loved this stove.  I'm hoping I don't have trouble getting it apart without doing any damage, particularly since most parts are no longer available.  I just want it to be in top shape for my son to start using.


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## defiant3 (Dec 7, 2013)

Woodman's won't know thread pitch I'm afraid, but it hardly matters.  Simply replace nuts and bolts with common 3/8 hardware.  Works every time for me!


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## begreen (Dec 9, 2013)

Jim, I'm glad you are recovering. I wouldn't tear it apart unless a rebuild is indicated. If it just needs liners or a baffle replacement I don't think it needs to be taken apart to do that.


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## LuckyJim (Dec 30, 2013)

begreen said:


> Jim, I'm glad you are recovering. I wouldn't tear it apart unless a rebuild is indicated. If it just needs liners or a baffle replacement I don't think it needs to be taken apart to do that.



Hi again.  Thanks for the good wishes Begreen.

I decided to take it completely apart and re-cement it because of the age of the unit, years of use, and since I could see a couple very small spots that the cement was gone from the last time I burned it.  I wanted my son to have the advantage of (functionally) a brand new stove with no worries regarding safety, as well as true airtight efficiency.

Turns out the 4 bolts that hold this stove together don't take much of a beating!!  They came out quite easily with a bit of PB Blaster, and looked fine for reuse, which surprised the Hell out of me!  The other surprise I got was finding a floor plate to the stove, under which was a layer of some kind of fine particulate that looks more like cement dust than sand.  Since I have no idea what it is, having completely disassembled, cleaned, and inspected the stove, we're going to put it right back under there before cementing it back together this weekend, unless someone has other info.

I sure wish more parts were available for these stoves, for future reference.


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## begreen (Dec 30, 2013)

I wish they still made Lange stoves. These were well made, good heating and looking stoves.


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## dplayers1 (Mar 31, 2015)

Resurrecting this old thread as I'm about to embark on the same project. I'm in almost the exact same situation... our old Lange has been sitting for years and I'd like to rebuild it before putting it back into service. 

Jim - did you wind up taking it apart? Did you use the black cement? Any pics?

Regarding liners - Woodsmans wants close to $1000 for front, back and 2 side liners. Yikes. I'm not sure if I need new ones or not. Are there any other generic alternatives?


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## Dune (Mar 31, 2015)

You can use plastic refractory. Mold it flat and the size of the panel then seat it with a rubber hammer. 1/2" or so. One box is more than enough for most stoves.
http://refwest.com/plastic.aspx


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## LuckyJim (Apr 5, 2015)

dplayers1 said:


> Resurrecting this old thread as I'm about to embark on the same project. I'm in almost the exact same situation... our old Lange has been sitting for years and I'd like to rebuild it before putting it back into service.
> 
> Jim - did you wind up taking it apart? Did you use the black cement? Any pics?
> 
> Regarding liners - Woodsmans wants close to $1000 for front, back and 2 side liners. Yikes. I'm not sure if I need new ones or not. Are there any other generic alternatives?



Sorry it took so long to respond.

Yes, I took it completely apart and resealed it---wasn't hard at all---just a bit of a balancing act putting it back together. Definitely have someone there to help you and make sure you're putting all the parts back in the right places.  I haven't seen seen reasonably priced spare parts anywhere, and don't need any yet, fortunately.


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## ahoy30 (May 2, 2015)

Hey, I'm getting in on this because my beloved lange developed a big split in the upper plate that the damper slides in, whatever that's called. Haven't called woodmans yet, but I suspect my chances are slim that I'll find this part. Anyone have any thoughts on this?


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## begreen (May 2, 2015)

Do you mean the baffle? Got a picture of the problem?


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## ahoy30 (May 2, 2015)

I don't, my camera is dead, but if you look at the blown up picture on woodmans, it's  #10. It's cracked right down the middle starting at the damper opening, and sagging into the fire box which actually limits the amount of wood I can get in, as well as hurting it's performance. The stove owes me nothing, my buddy's dad gave it to me (there's a bit of sentimental attachment, but I'm trying to knock that stuff off). At the same time now, a friend has a defiant I could get for a couple hundred bucks, which I figure would be cheaper than replacing just about any part. I love the 6302, but I know lots of people love vt castings. Also, I'm guessing I'd have to change my pipe diameter from 6 to 8. Does that sound right?


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## begreen (May 2, 2015)

Yes, that's the baffle. You have a great stove. If the rest of the stove is in good running condition then it's worth investing in to keep it running right.


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## BeachBumm (Aug 11, 2017)

//


LuckyJim said:


> Sorry it took so long to respond.
> 
> Yes, I took it completely apart and resealed it---wasn't hard at all---just a bit of a balancing act putting it back together. Definitely have someone there to help you and make sure you're putting all the parts back in the right places.  I haven't seen seen reasonably priced spare parts anywhere, and don't need any yet, fortunately.



Jim, I want to take the top off my Lange and not disturb the sides. Is it possible?  How would I do it?


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## begreen (Aug 11, 2017)

Personally for a 30+ yr old stove I'd disassemble the stove completely, then clean all joints and recement them as I put it together. It doesn't take that long with simple stove designs. I had the F602 apart, and reassembled in a few hours and that included drilling out and retapping a few metric bolts that snapped off.


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## BeachBumm (Aug 11, 2017)

begreen said:


> Personally for a 30+ yr old stove I'd disassemble the stove completely, then clean all joints and recement them as I put it together. It doesn't take that long with simple stove designs. I had the F602 apart, and reassembled in a few hours and that included drilling out and retapping a few metric bolts that snapped off.



Sounds like a daunting task!  What is the procedure when recementing?  
Do you apply the cement on both parts and push them together?
What is the set up time for that cement? Do you have to do it all very quickly once you begin the cementing?
How do you keep the fresh cement off the porcelain?  I am remembering that the cement is messy stuff. 
Do you use that Rutlund cement from the hardware store in a tube or a tub - or is there something better out there?


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## begreen (Aug 11, 2017)

_Sounds like a daunting task!_ Actually it isn't if one is prepared in advance.
_Do you apply the cement on both parts and push them together?_ - Yes. Use a ratchet strap to hold the sides together.
_How do you keep the fresh cement off the porcelain?_ I am remembering that the cement is messy stuff. Scrap off excess then wipe off with a damp rag.
_Do you use that Rutlund cement from the hardware store in a tube or a tub - or is there something better out there?_ Yes, Rutland will work. Or get some Hearthstone stove cement which is a tougher produce.


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## BeachBumm (Aug 11, 2017)

begreen said:


> _Sounds like a daunting task!_ Actually it isn't if one is prepared in advance.
> _Do you apply the cement on both parts and push them together?_ - Yes. Use a ratchet strap to hold the sides together.
> _How do you keep the fresh cement off the porcelain?_ I am remembering that the cement is messy stuff. Scrap off excess then wipe off with a damp rag.
> _Do you use that Rutlund cement from the hardware store in a tube or a tub - or is there something better out there?_ Yes, Rutland will work. Or get some Hearthstone stove cement which is a tougher produce.




I'll poke around Google and see if I can find some videos showing someone doing it.

Do you have to get ALL the old cement off prior to applying new cement?  Does it set up real quick or do you have time to 'take your time'?


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## BeachBumm (Aug 14, 2017)

Do you think a baffle made from refractory cement would work?  Would it hold up to the heat?  

Do you know it that stuff is tough enough to withstand being bumped by a piece of wood that 
might hit it when being inserted into the  firebox?


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## begreen (Aug 14, 2017)

Vermiculite or ceramic board cut to shape should work if you can achieve a good snug fit on the sides and rear. It does get brittle and will crack if hit by wood too hard.


BeachBumm said:


> Do you have to get ALL the old cement off prior to applying new cement? Does it set up real quick or do you have time to 'take your time'?


You want to go a good job of cleaning the edges. There is reasonable time to get the pieces together when reassembling. Having a helper to hold the side pieces in place can help or use a ratchet strap.


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## BeachBumm (Aug 15, 2017)

begreen said:


> Vermiculite or ceramic board cut to shape should work if you can achieve a good snug fit on the sides and rear. It does get brittle and will crack if hit by wood too hard.
> You want to go a good job of cleaning the edges. There is reasonable time to get the pieces together when reassembling. Having a helper to hold the side pieces in place can help or use a ratchet strap.



I think I'll pass on the fabricated baffle. Would refractory cement be the best to glue the cast iron back together, vs regular Rutland stove cement?


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## begreen (Aug 15, 2017)

I would use Rutland's stove cement or Hearthstone's:
https://www.lehmans.com/product/hearthstone-stove-cement/hearth-accessories


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