# Effecta lambda 35



## chewy (Jan 26, 2019)

*Effecta lambda 35*
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces




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#1Today at 11:38 AM




*chewy *

*Member*
Hello all. I have an effecta lambda that isn't running properly. For the last couple weeks when I start a fire, at 100*c the boiler adjusts to full primary air and stays this way for about the first 2ish hrs of my normal 5 hr burn. Normally the secondary air from the start is adjusting once the boiler temp reaches 100*c. My co2 % for the first half of the burn stays at the 6-8% range. The manual suggests between 10-13% and 12% for the most part has been where I've kept it for the 4years I've had it. 

Things I've already tried:

I've cleaned the tubes/turbulators

Taken the fan out and cleaned it. (My fan makes a weird noise while running and has so ever since I've installed the boilet). I will attach a video of the fan running bc this could be the problem.

I've replaced the lambda sensor 

I've taken apart the flu to make sure there was no blockage 

I've cleaned the secondary air holes in the firebox

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Ty, erin

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a" style="margin: 0px; padding: 10px 10px 0px; overflow: hidden; zoom: 1; background: none center top repeat-x rgb(255, 255, 255); border-radius: 5px;">
*20190124_113832.mp4*
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## TCaldwell (Jan 26, 2019)

You might try contacting John dolz, he has affecta also


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## chewy (Jan 26, 2019)

Ok,  does he still frequent this forum?


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## TCaldwell (Jan 26, 2019)

Yes he does and I texted him as you to you needing his help


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## chewy (Jan 26, 2019)

Thanks tc,  I really appreciate it.


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## TCaldwell (Jan 26, 2019)

He said he’ll get with ya tomorrow


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## chewy (Jan 26, 2019)

Ok,  ty again


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## TCaldwell (Jan 26, 2019)

Are you into a wet area of the woodpile, seems like the primary is tryingto increase the fire. Until the co2 increases I doubt the primary will start to close, this scenario is usually representative of wet wood. 
 If the wood was dry, with the primary open, the flue temp would increase as well as the co2.


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## TCaldwell (Jan 26, 2019)

Does he o2 sensor respond correctly, one way to check is to remove it from the flue( with no fire in the boiler) hold the sensor with a pair of Chanel locks, heat the end of the sensor with a propane torch, ( you won’t hurt it) immediately the Effecta should display a full scale rich reading ( a co2 reading in the area of 20) and the dampers respond accordingly, primary modulates to close and the secondary modulates to open. When you remove the torch co2 should drop to 0 and dampers assume the start of burn positions. If you get this response then the sensor and dampers are responding correctly, if not then you’ve got a problem.


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## JohnDolz (Jan 27, 2019)

TCaldwell said:


> Are you into a wet area of the woodpile, seems like the primary is trying to increase the fire. Until the co2 increases I doubt the primary will start to close, this scenario is usually representative of wet wood.
> If the wood was dry, with the primary open, the flue temp would increase as well as the co2.


I'm with Tom on this one, since it does start to function properly after 2 hours and it is reading an co2 of 5-6% and then climbs I have to think it is the wood (bringing back fond memories of my 1st year with the Effecta 35). I had a lot of bridging issues in year 1 caused by wood that was not properly dried. As a Sidenote I new have the Effecta 60kw (the 35 was undersized for my home) and it is much less finicky. Tarm USA in NH is now Effecta's US distributor and can help with support issues but I would get some kiln dried wood and give it a go to see what happens. Good luck.


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## chewy (Jan 27, 2019)

Hi guys,  thanks for the responses.  My would pile is consistent.  I've had wet wood before and what it does is starve the fire and send smoke out the chimney.   I can see a couple fires here or there doing this,  but not everyone for the last couple of weeks. 

 It does seem to be an air issue though.  I'm going to clean it again to see if I missed anything.  Another thing I read in the manual is maybe the damper doors have moved and need to be reset.  

After 3 years of using the stove I can definitely tell it's not responding right.  I just cant figure out what it is.

Any other thoughts?

Thanks again.


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## chewy (Jan 27, 2019)

JohnDolz said:


> I'm with Tom on this one, since it does start to function properly after 2 hours and it is reading an co2 of 5-6% and then climbs I have to think it is the wood (bringing back fond memories of my 1st year with the Effecta 35). I had a lot of bridging issues in year 1 caused by wood that was not properly dried. As a Sidenote I new have the Effecta 60kw (the 35 was undersized for my home) and it is much less finicky. Tarm USA in NH is now Effecta's US distributor and can help with support issues but I would get some kiln dried wood and give it a go to see what happens. Good luck.


Tom,  I see what you are saying,  it does seem to be a starving issue.  What else could cause this if the wood isn't the issue?


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## chewy (Jan 27, 2019)

I meant John,  sorry.


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## chewy (Jan 27, 2019)

Also,  does the fan motor sound normal


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## JohnDolz (Jan 27, 2019)

chewy said:


> Also,  does the fan motor sound normal


Sorry, no other thoughts. It sounds like how my Effecta behaved when I was having bridging issues (are you using bigger wood than previous years?).  The fact that it starts to function as normal after 2 hours sounds like the wood dries out during that time and the your fire burns as previous years. I will shoot this thread over to someone I know at Effecta and see if he has any thoughts.


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## chewy (Jan 27, 2019)

JohnDolz said:


> Sorry, no other thoughts. It sounds like how my Effecta behaved when I was having bridging issues (are you using bigger wood than previous years?).  The fact that it starts to function as normal after 2 hours sounds like the wood dries out during that time and the your fire burns as previous years. I will shoot this thread over to someone I know at Effecta and see if he has any thoughts.


Ok,ty.  Over the years I've used all sizes of wood,  usually hand size.  I wouldn't say it runs normally after 2hrs,  that just when the secondary air starts to adjust.  My wood sizing is no different than it has been for the past 3 years.  I'm wondering if it's not calibrated properly?


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## JohnDolz (Jan 27, 2019)

chewy said:


> Ok,ty.  Over the years I've used all sizes of wood,  usually hand size.  I wouldn't say it runs normally after 2hrs,  that just when the secondary air starts to adjust.  My wood sizing is no different than it has been for the past 3 years.  I'm wondering if it's not calibrated properly?


Sorry I could not be of more help, that's all i got for you. I pinged someone over at Effecta, I am sure you will hear from them in a day or two. Let us know what it turns of to be.


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## chewy (Jan 27, 2019)

This is an image of the screen after 2hrs of burn.  I started this fire at 9am.  

Co2= is at 7%


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## JohnDolz (Jan 27, 2019)

chewy said:


> Ok,ty.  Over the years I've used all sizes of wood,  usually hand size.  I wouldn't say it runs normally after 2hrs,  that just when the secondary air starts to adjust.  My wood sizing is no different than it has been for the past 3 years.  I'm wondering if it's not calibrated properly?


What happens after 2 hours? I guess I assumed that once the secondary starts to adjust your co2 works its way to 13% and you start running 50/50 primary/secondary.


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## chewy (Jan 27, 2019)

Here are a couple of pics of the wood moisture %.  I have probably at least 3 years of wood,  if not more.


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## chewy (Jan 27, 2019)

Another current image of the screen.


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## chewy (Jan 27, 2019)

A current image of the burn.


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## chewy (Jan 27, 2019)

JohnDolz said:


> What happens after 2 hours? I guess I assumed that once the secondary starts to adjust your co2 works its way to 13% and you start running 50/50 primary/secondary.


John,  if you notice in the newest picture the secondary door has opened one notch.  I have the boiler set to 10% currently to try to get the secondary to adjust.  It will barely reach 10%.  Usually it reaches 12% plus right after the boiler reaches 100*c,  and then the secondary kicks in.


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## TCaldwell (Jan 27, 2019)

Have you tried shutting it down, rebooting power, reverse wires when you changed o2 sensor?


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## chewy (Jan 27, 2019)

John,  what year was you 35?  Was it like mine?  Did your fan sound like mine?  Were you able to see the video I posted of the fan running?

I'm wondering if the fan isn't slowly going out and it's not drawing enough air?


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## chewy (Jan 27, 2019)

TCaldwell said:


> Have you tried shutting it down, rebooting power, reverse wires when you changed o2 sensor?




Tc,  I've tried rebooting/recalibrating it.  I just switched lambda sensors and it is just a plug, so I dont know how to switch the wires.


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## TCaldwell (Jan 27, 2019)

Have you tried removing the sensor and testing with propane, you could also watch the damper position bars on the screen to see if they correlate to the the actual damper positions. Have you checked the opening in the door that the primary air pulls through, it seems to me like something is not right with the primary air delivery.


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## chewy (Jan 27, 2019)

I'm reluctant to check the sensor with a torch.  I guess I can put the old one back in.   I assume you mean to do this with no fire?  I haven't checked the primary/secondary dampers yet.  I have to wait till I dont have a fire.  Its supposed to get up to 40*  tomorrow so I'll be able to clean and check a few more things


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## TCaldwell (Jan 27, 2019)

Look, I know I don’t have a Effecta, but I’ve been dealing with my own o2 sensors for years, Bosch suggested to me this method, it also burns the crud from it. These things run cherry red in a auto exhaust system. If you doubt me try it with your old sensor.


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## chewy (Jan 27, 2019)

I dont think I can do it without a fire going.  The boiler has to get up to 100*c before the 02 sensor starts reading.  I wish I had confirmation on this.


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## TCaldwell (Jan 27, 2019)

That could put a damper on things, it just would be nice to see the control panel co2 percent drive the primary damper, confirming its working as it should.


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## chewy (Jan 27, 2019)

Let's see if effecta responds.  If they dont I might have to try this.


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## maple1 (Jan 27, 2019)

chewy said:


> I dont think I can do it without a fire going.  The boiler has to get up to 100*c before the 02 sensor starts reading.  I wish I had confirmation on this.



The boiler needs to get to 100c before the sensor starts reading?

Are you sure? It should be ramping down before that, shouldnt it? That's a pretty hot boiler temp.


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## TCaldwell (Jan 27, 2019)

Flue temp


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## chewy (Jan 27, 2019)

Maple1,  it may be reading, but there is no 02 value shown on the screen until the flue temp reaches 100*c.  So I would need a fire to check it like TC suggested.


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## maple1 (Jan 27, 2019)

I'm over my head here but can you unplug the wires from the installed o2 sensor, plug them onto the uninstalled one, the start a fire and do the torch thing?


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## JohnDolz (Jan 27, 2019)

chewy said:


> John,  what year was you 35?  Was it like mine?  Did your fan sound like mine?  Were you able to see the video I posted of the fan running?
> 
> I'm wondering if the fan isn't slowly going out and it's not drawing enough air?


Just got a chance to watch your video - my fan is definitely not that noisy and I do not recall my 35kw being that noisy (mine was about that same vintage). Assuming you tried the basics: remove the fan, cleaned it, make sure everything is tight on it, etc. There is an impeller impeller between the boiler and the fan motor - any chance the shroud around it got bent and is hitting the fan blade? Tarm USA has a big inventory of spare parts, I imagine they have a fan for you (keep in mind that your is probably the 50 hz version - not sure it matters but make sure Tarm is aware of that. If they do not have it in stock, they were awesome at getting something for me out of Sweden.


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## chewy (Jan 27, 2019)

JohnDolz said:


> Just got a chance to watch your video - my fan is definitely not that noisy and I do not recall my 35kw being that noisy (mine was about that same vintage). Assuming you tried the basics: remove the fan, cleaned it, make sure everything is tight on it, etc. There is an impeller impeller between the boiler and the fan motor - any chance the shroud around it got bent and is hitting the fan blade? Tarm USA has a big inventory of spare parts, I imagine they have a fan for you (keep in mind that your is probably the 50 hz version - not sure it matters but make sure Tarm is aware of that. If they do not have it in stock, they were awesome at getting something for me out of Sweden.



John,  do you remember if you used a step up converter to wire up your old 35?  Or, do you remember how it was wired?  The way I have mine wired I use a step up to convert 110 to 220.  I was told that this is how I had to wire it.  I never understood why I couldn't just run 220 to the stove.

This fan has always made this noise from day 1.  I've never thought it was wired right,  but the stove has performed good until the last couple weeks.  

I am in contact with tarm and waiting to hear back from them.  They dont know much about my model bc they just started selling effectas.


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## chewy (Jan 27, 2019)

maple1 said:


> I'm over my head here but can you unplug the wires from the installed o2 sensor, plug them onto the uninstalled one, the start a fire and do the torch thing?



Maple1,  that is a very good idea.  I just might try that!    Thanks!


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## JohnDolz (Jan 27, 2019)

chewy said:


> John,  do you remember if you used a step up converter to wire up your old 35?  Or, do you remember how it was wired?  The way I have mine wired I use a step up to convert 110 to 220.  I was told that this is how I had to wire it.  I never understood why I couldn't just run 220 to the stove.
> 
> This fan has always made this noise from day 1.  I've never thought it was wired right,  but the stove has performed good until the last couple weeks.
> 
> I am in contact with tarm and waiting to hear back from them.  They don't know much about my model bc they just started selling effectas.


 I used a Step Up as well, don't recall why it was setup that way (thought buying a step up was a lot cheaper than running 220 to where my boiler is. If the fan always made that noise then would guess that is not the issue. I am sure that between Tarm and Effecta they will help you get to a resolution. My gut keeps telling me it is a fuel issue - when I was having my bridging problems my moisture meter was reading same as yours. I was insisting it was not a wood issue. The next season I had "dry" wood and was in business. At the end of the season I ran low on wood, bought some Split/"dry" wood, moisture meter said dry - the Effecta told me otherwise. Not saying it is the fuel, I just don't know what else to suggest to you. Good luck.


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## TCaldwell (Jan 28, 2019)

While you can clean a sensor that way , the idea was to watch the reaction of the sensor/ electronics / damper while you induced a reaction with the propane


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## chewy (Jan 28, 2019)

This is the fan running outside of the boiler.  It doesn't make any noise.  And it seems to be running faster.


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## JohnDolz (Jan 28, 2019)

chewy said:


> This is the fan running outside of the boiler.  It doesn't make any noise.  And it seems to be running faster.


Sounds quieter than when you had it inside but tough to tell via video. Can't imagine it is running faster unless there has been a change in the electricity being delivered to it (it does run a little faster than designed because you are running 60hz through a 50hz motor but that has been the case since day 1 - same here when I had the 35kw).


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## chewy (Jan 28, 2019)

Ok,  went through and cleaned the boiler.  Took a wire and made sure every hole was open in the secondary air of the bottom of the fire box.  I took the cover off to expose the damper doors to make sure they are working and as far as I can tell they are working correctly.  Ran the brush down the tubes.  Shook out the turbulators.  

Started another fire and no change.  

I was in contact with tarm last week asking questions and looking for some suggestions.  Still no word back.

Erin


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## TCaldwell (Jan 28, 2019)

How about your flue after the boiler?


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## maple1 (Jan 28, 2019)

Hmm, yes, a plugged cap might mess something up. Although not sure that would happen with such a clean burner. Fly ash can settle out in a horizontal section too though.


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## chewy (Jan 28, 2019)

I checked my horizontal section last week and it was pretty clean.  I haven't checked the vertical section though.  That is on the list.  Good suggestion.


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## maple1 (Jan 28, 2019)

I'm doubtful, since it's a pretty clean burner - would just be something to check off the list. I haven't touched my chimney since summer of 2012. My stove pipe section does get fly ash settling out though.


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## TCaldwell (Jan 28, 2019)

My bet, it’s a moderately plugged cap


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## TCaldwell (Jan 28, 2019)

Or if there’s a t-y cleanout plugged or restricted?


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## Fred61 (Jan 28, 2019)

Squirrel cage fan is going to run at a higher RPM when it's out of the housing because the housing directs the air to the vanes and to the outlet. Just running it out in the room like that doesn't apply any air load to the vanes. If you think the blower is running faster when it's in the housing you should check for obstructions at the air supply inlet. Analogous to blocking inlet air on your shop vac with the palm of your hand causes the blower to speed up by eliminating the air load on the vanes.


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## TCaldwell (Jan 28, 2019)

Did you find anything?


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## chewy (Jan 28, 2019)

TCaldwell said:


> Or if there’s a t-y cleanout plugged or restricted?


Ok,  I took the cap out of the tee while a fire is going.  No improvement.  Image attached of a shot from bottom up through to the cap.


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## chewy (Jan 28, 2019)

Image


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## TCaldwell (Jan 28, 2019)

Okay, what next?


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## chewy (Jan 28, 2019)

Fred61 said:


> Squirrel cage fan is going to run at a higher RPM when it's out of the housing because the housing directs the air to the vanes and to the outlet. Just running it out in the room like that doesn't apply any air load to the vanes. If you think the blower is running faster when it's in the housing you should check for obstructions at the air supply inlet. Analogous to blocking inlet air on your shop vac with the palm of your hand causes the blower to speed up by eliminating the air load on the vanes.


Fred,  did you listen to the sound of the fan installed in the boiler?  I agree that it is starving for air.  When I start the boilet empty the fan noise is quieter with the firebox door open and then gets louder when the door is closed.  I observed this this morning while cleaning it again.  I even ran it without the turbulators in to see if I was getting restriction in the tubes.  No difference.  

At this point I have tried everything I know to do.  

Erin


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## chewy (Jan 28, 2019)

TCaldwell said:


> Okay, what next?


I have no idea.


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## chewy (Jan 28, 2019)

I do appreciate everybody's help so far though.  Thank you.


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## SpaceBus (Jan 28, 2019)

Do you have access to bio bricks or a similar product? I saw your moisture content photos and saw that it looks good, but looks can be deceiving. Fuel is the only thing you haven't checked, yet.


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## chewy (Jan 28, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> Do you have access to bio bricks or a similar product? I saw your moisture content photos and saw that it looks good, but looks can be deceiving. Fuel is the only thing you haven't checked, yet.


I will look them up.  I have never heard of them.


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## TCaldwell (Jan 28, 2019)

Could the fan be just a little lose on the motor?


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## chewy (Jan 28, 2019)

TCaldwell said:


> Could the fan be just a little lose on the motor?


I checked that this morning.  Seemed to be fine.


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## TCaldwell (Jan 28, 2019)

I tend to agree based on the fan noise only when the door is closed, that it’s some sort of restriction, you’ve checked the house flue, you’ve said the primary air baffle looks good but is there a center bolt that’s loose or bound or some sort of linkage that supposed to actuate the primary air baffle that could have broken or dislodged? You might need a parts pic from the manual to see what is there vs what is supposed to be there.


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## JohnDolz (Jan 28, 2019)

chewy said:


> Fred,  did you listen to the sound of the fan installed in the boiler?  I agree that it is starving for air.  When I start the boilet empty the fan noise is quieter with the firebox door open and then gets louder when the door is closed.  I observed this this morning while cleaning it again.  I even ran it without the turbulators in to see if I was getting restriction in the tubes.  No difference.
> 
> At this point I have tried everything I know to do.
> 
> Erin


I am assuming that you have checked this but have you checked the openings that allows air into the boiler (where the damper are)?  You access them from inside the boiler, on the wall below the opening for the door. Along the same lines to you clean out the bottom of the fiebox (so that the ask at the bottom does not block these openings)?


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## TCaldwell (Jan 28, 2019)

If the thermocouple in the boiler flue is above 100c/ 212f the electronics should work allowing  you to leave the existing o2 sensor in the flue, plug the old one into the harness hold it with a pair of Chanel locks and put the lot propane torch to it for 10 sec. it should drive the co2 to its high limit on the display and you should be able with the door open or front cover off to watch if you get primary baffle to close or do anything.


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## TCaldwell (Jan 28, 2019)

How about a manual mode for the controller, then change the dapper outputs and see if they move?


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## chewy (Jan 28, 2019)

Ok


TCaldwell said:


> I tend to agree based on the fan noise only when the door is closed, that it’s some sort of restriction, you’ve checked the house flue, you’ve said the primary air baffle looks good but is there a center bolt that’s loose or bound or some sort of linkage that supposed to actuate the primary air baffle that could have broken or dislodged? You might need a parts pic from the manual to see what is there vs what is supposed to be there.[/QUOTE
> 
> Tc,  this is a pic and video of the damper doors.  They are running about 70%p  30%s right now.  I have had a continuous fire since 11ish am this morning.
> 
> The dampers are adjusting as they should.


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## chewy (Jan 28, 2019)

TCaldwell said:


> I tend to agree based on the fan noise only when the door is closed, that it’s some sort of restriction, you’ve checked the house flue, you’ve said the primary air baffle looks good but is there a center bolt that’s loose or bound or some sort of linkage that supposed to actuate the primary air baffle that could have broken or dislodged? You might need a parts pic from the manual to see what is there vs what is supposed to be there.




Tc,  i think the dampers are working.  They are adjusting.


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## chewy (Jan 28, 2019)

JohnDolz said:


> I am assuming that you have checked this but have you checked the openings that allows air into the boiler (where the damper are)?  You access them from inside the boiler, on the wall below the opening for the door. Along the same lines to you clean out the bottom of the fiebox (so that the ask at the bottom does not block these openings)?



I haven't removed the damper motors from the mounts,  but looking down in there when the doors are open they look clean.  I checked the 2 Inlet holes in the firebox this morning they were clear.  I also took a coat hanger and brush and made sure every hole in the secondary inlet was open.


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## chewy (Jan 28, 2019)

John,  is there a way to manually calibrate the stove?  Or at least just let it stay at 70/30?


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## chewy (Jan 28, 2019)

I have another question.  Wouldn't wetter the wood produce higher amounts of co2?


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## JohnDolz (Jan 28, 2019)

chewy said:


> John,  is there a way to manually calibrate the stove?  Or at least just let it stay at 70/30?


There is the test function mode where you can manually calibrate but I don't know if they stay there or if the computer then resets them.


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## JohnDolz (Jan 28, 2019)

chewy said:


> I have another question.  Wouldn't wetter the wood produce higher amounts of co2?


I can only tell you that what you are describing sounds like my 1st year with the 35kw. I thought my wood was dry (moisture meter even agreed with me)  but compared to the following year (when I KNEW I had dry wood)it became obvious what my problem was. Sorry but that is all I got....good luck.


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## TCaldwell (Jan 29, 2019)

Anything yet?


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## chewy (Jan 29, 2019)

TCaldwell said:


> Anything yet?


Tc,  nothing yet.  I'm getting ready to do a load of known dry wood of scraps from my woodshop blended with some finely split wood from bags that
I have split in my shop.  

Tarm responded to me this morning telling me hannes from effecta will be in contact with me.
I sent the same video to tarm of the fan running.  He told them that something is definitely not right with it by the sound of it.  

I will keep you posted.  

Thanks again


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## chewy (Jan 29, 2019)

Well,  as much as I hate to admit it I may be wrong!  These pictures are of the first 15 minutes of the burn.  I put scraps from the shop that were in the 7% moisture range I filled it probably about a third of the way up and then the rest was small splits.  I'll check it in an hr or 2 to see what its reading.   I still think it is starving for air a bit,  but I'll find more out when I talk to hannes.

I'll update afterwhile,  thanks

Erin


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## chewy (Jan 29, 2019)

Half hour in.  Stack temp is low,  but secondary is working.


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## chewy (Jan 29, 2019)

1.5 hrs in.  Stack temp is up and its maintaining 12%.  Looks like the wood was the problem.


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## TCaldwell (Jan 29, 2019)

Guess your boiler is now clean, but your wood is wet


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## chewy (Jan 29, 2019)

2.5 hrs in.  Fire almost out. Probably another 1/2 he left.


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## chewy (Jan 29, 2019)

TCaldwell said:


> Guess your boiler is now clean, but your wood is wet


That is what it looks like.  I haven't experienced wet wood yet and this pile was processed over 2 years ago.  

This fire is only going to last about 3.5 hrs.  My next fire I'm going to do less kindling and pull some chunks off of my stack I was using before.  Well see what happens.


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## TCaldwell (Jan 29, 2019)

Do you store your wood inside?


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## chewy (Jan 29, 2019)

No,  I dont have room to.

Here's been my normal routine since I've had the effecta.

In December of '16 I rented a wood processor and processed enough wood that I'm just starting my last pile from it.  I also rented a processor December of '17 and haven't touched that run yet.

Every couple weeks in the winter I load a trailer with wood and about half of it I resplit and put into old seed bean bulk bags.  The rest of the trailer I carry into the boiler room.  If it's super cold I can only hold about 4-5 days worth in the boiler room.

When I start a fire I use kindling to get it going and then fill half of it with the fiber pieces and then put bigger chunks at the top (as the book suggests).


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## TCaldwell (Jan 29, 2019)

I think a lot of outdoor wood piles absorbed water this fall, nothing had a chance to season. 
 I’d consider some way to store at least a couple cord indoors, or start hitting home builder dumpsters for lumber scraps.


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## chewy (Jan 29, 2019)

Probably a good idea.  I appreciate the help from everyone.

I would ask one small favor.  Can you not tell my wife I was wrong?  It would ruin my reputation!

Erin


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## SpaceBus (Jan 29, 2019)

Look into products like the North Idaho Energy Logs or Red Bricks from Tractor Supply. They can be kept anywhere dry and have a super low moisture content. One pallet is like a cord of spruce.


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## chewy (Jan 30, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> Look into products like the North Idaho Energy Logs or Red Bricks from Tractor Supply. They can be kept anywhere dry and have a super low moisture content. One pallet is like a cord of spruce.




Ok,  thanks for the info.


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## Fred61 (Jan 30, 2019)

All you wood burners including yours truly have seen these same symptoms come up time and time again on this forum yet we blame them on everything else  for several days before solving the problem with dryer wood.


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## TCaldwell (Jan 30, 2019)

One thing that helps me is after a burn has finished, remove the coals from the firebox of there are any, stack loosely the next burns wood in the firebox, letting it cook for 12 hrs.


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## JohnDolz (Jan 31, 2019)

chewy said:


> Half hour in.  Stack temp is low,  but secondary is working.


Looks about right considering the super dry / small wood.


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## JohnDolz (Jan 31, 2019)

TCaldwell said:


> I think a lot of outdoor wood piles absorbed water this fall, nothing had a chance to season.
> I’d consider some way to store at least a couple cord indoors, or start hitting home builder dumpsters for lumber scraps.


Tom I would agree - I have wood in 2 general categories, 2 years worth in a woodshed. Other wood scattered around my place stacked under a tarp. The wood in my woodshed is burning perfectly, the other wood grew spectacular mushrooms.


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## JohnDolz (Jan 31, 2019)

chewy said:


> Probably a good idea.  I appreciate the help from everyone.
> 
> I would ask one small favor.  Can you not tell my wife I was wrong?  It would ruin my reputation!
> 
> Erin


What's that worth to you?


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## chewy (Jan 31, 2019)

TCaldwell said:


> One thing that helps me is after a burn has finished, remove the coals from the firebox of there are any, stack loosely the next burns wood in the firebox, letting it cook for 12 hrs.


After tonight our cold spell will be over and I'll be able to try this.  That is a good idea


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## chewy (Jan 31, 2019)

JohnDolz said:


> What's that worth to you?


I've got some wet wood I'll tradeyou!


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## JohnDolz (Feb 1, 2019)

chewy said:


> I've got some wet wood I'll tradeyou!


I'll do 3:1, the luxury of 2 years under cover! Glad you got it figured out.


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