# Seeking Ramsplitter HV-16 Electric Feedback



## Sapper12 (May 3, 2009)

All,
  I am very close to purchasing a Ramsplitter HV-16 Electric Splitter (2HP).  I typically split wood 18" in diameter, but I would like to be able to split the occasional piece that is 30" or slightly larger.  I scavenge wood, so I take and split whatever I can get my hands on.   Does anyone own this splitter and can provide me feedback both good and bad on this model. 


  I split 50' from my house, and I live in a residential neighborhood.  I don't need to haul it in the woods and low noise are big benefits.  I am slightly concerned that this 16 Ton unit may be underpowered.  I am not terribly worried about speed.  Anything under 25 second cycle time is ok with me.  I plan on running it from a 20 Amp, 110 V circuit.

Any feedback would be great.  The unit is $1050 dollars.  There are other gas options that are the same price or cheaper.  Huskee 22 Ton ($1100), Earthquake 12 Ton ($700, - probably underpowered), and others.  If anyone has a good reason to consider (keeping in mind that I value low noise, and don't need portability) these over the Ramsplitter 16Ton, I would like to hear that as well. 

Thanks for any feedback, Jon

jjeckman@juno.com


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## Gooserider (May 4, 2009)

I prefer gas for the money, and don't think there is that much of a noise issue with a modern engine that has a decent muffler on it...  I considered electric, but ended up going gas, as I felt like I got more for my money, and had the portability option if I needed it.

That said, the stuff I've heard about the Ramsplitters has been pretty good, biggest thing I would say is that you will be really maxxing out the load on that 110v circuit - get a really good extension cord - at least a 12g.  It might even be worth considering putting in a 220v outlet...

Gooserider


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## pdhowell (May 4, 2009)

I have this splitter, and it has been fine.  I put a pressure gauge on it, and found I could bump it up from the 2000 psi factory setting to 2500 psi, but that was just playing because  before I adjusted it, it splits everything I cold lift on the beam.  It is compact, quiet, and splits kindling well, which is helpful because I use a lot of kindling. Out in the woods, it runs off a generator in the back of my pickup.  It does not heat the oil at all, and it cycles back and forth in fourteen seconds.  Bear in mind this is an eighteen inch ram.  It uses a box beam, (like the arms of a tractor loader) instead of an I beam and reminds me of a big splitters baby brother.  The build quality is good, good welds, good off the shelf and easily replaceable components.

It uses a 3.5 inch cylinder, which is fine. I note that the four smaller Split-Fire splitters and the fast cycle Iron and Oak splitter also used this same size cylinder.  The motor does not slow on the heaviest stuff, it simply downshifts for a second to make the split and comes back to speed to shove the ram through the wood.

It's working height is about 22 inches, sort of low for me,  There is always some stooping,  but better than the horizontal model. Get the splitter trays, if you buy this machine, as  they hold the resplits.

As Goose said, the twenty amp motor is at the edge of 110 voltage.  When it is cold, zero degrees, the motor could not pull the ATF fluid and pump drag without tripping the  20 amp breaker.  I rewired mine, (easy) and now run it off a 220 line in my shed.  A 50 foot ten gauge extension cord gives me the flexibility to move it to that part of my wood pile that I am currently stacking. Lowes  Yellow Jack extension cord is much  more flexible than the Home Depot Orange cord.

My biggest problem with it, is that I forget it is running and come back to find I haven't shut it off.  My neighbors borrow it, running it off their drier outlet without any problems.  To use my  son's term, it is "sweet".

By the way, I puzzled over, where do you put the pressure gauge?  Any help?  Does it go between the pump and valve or between the valve and cylinder ( my placing).  A neighbor suggested adjusting the valve and then replacing the gauge with a plug so that it doesn't get broken.  Done.

Hope this helps somebody,

Dave Howell


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## Lifted4x4Astro (May 4, 2009)

Bear in mind that 16 ton "rated" electric splitter running at 2000 psi is truly only around a 10 ton splitter and at 2500 psi it is only a 12 ton splitter. If you are splitting upwards of 30" rounds, that splitter will be pretty weak.


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## b121 (May 4, 2009)

I thought about the electric Ramsplitter, but got the Ramsplitter 16 with the Honda 5 HP  and have had it for one year.
I'd rather keep my fire wood processing operation away from my house so the gasoline model was a better choice for me.
The quality of the unit is very good and I would recommend it.
The unit is not as loud as my lawn mower but loud enough for me, that I wear hearing protection.
I have split knarly 16 to 18 dia. red oak, and it handled it ok.
I thought that the Operation and Maintenance Manual could use some work though.
Phone support was good. And at the time I ordered my splitter, they offered free shipping.


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## pdhowell (May 4, 2009)

Lifted,

You are right. 

Just for fun, I did the math, but a 2000 psi four inch cylinder  is only 28,000 psi, as opposed to 24,000  psi ,  for a 2500 psi pressure in a 3.5 inch cylinder.  That is about 12 percent difference.

With a gauge on the cylinder side,I find that most splits don't even bump the needle.  When I use a four way wedge, quite often, it get to 1200, maybe 1500 pounds on the gauge.  So I do wonder how much pressure you really need.  I think that the sharpened non cast wedge does help out.

In our third growth hardwood forest in Western Maryland, few trunk section are greater than 24 inches, although specimen lawn trees are much bigger.  The big thing on this splitter is that you have only an 18" of  ram length, for maybe a 20" long round.  I think the shorter rounds split have to split much easier than a 24" or 30" section, used, say, in a wood burning boiler.

For a homeowner, or somebody working alone, close to others, I think this is a pretty good machine.  For somebody in business, or building one, as you are doing, I would go for something  more powerful.

I always enjoy these conversations.

Dave Howell


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## Sapper12 (May 4, 2009)

Everyone,
  Thanks for the feedback. I rarely do pieces over 24" DIA, and my stove only accepts pieces 22" in length. I try to cut pieces 16" -18" in length anyways.   I think that now I am going to purchase the 16 Ton electric and have it wired for 220V.  I will probably run a dedicated outlet to where I will be splitting.   I am going to give myself another day or two to think about it, and then I am going to order the machine tomorrow.

Thanks, Jon


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## Gooserider (May 4, 2009)

pdhowell said:
			
		

> <trim>By the way, I puzzled over, where do you put the pressure gauge?  Any help?  Does it go between the pump and valve or between the valve and cylinder ( my placing).  A neighbor suggested adjusting the valve and then replacing the gauge with a plug so that it doesn't get broken.  Done.
> 
> Hope this helps somebody,
> 
> Dave Howell


Normally the gauge should go between the pump and the valve - I have mine at the outlet of the pump, some people put it at the inlet to the valve.  That way you see what the pump is doing at all times.  I leave my valve in place as it's out of the way, and I get a certain amount of entertainment value out of watching it as I split - but I bought the plug when I got the valve just in case it does have a problem, so your neighbor's idea is a good one

Gooserider


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## pdhowell (May 4, 2009)

Goose,

I think you are absolutely correct.  However, I plumbed my gauge  into the cylinder side of the valve because the hydraulics shop, where I got the parts, pointed out I could measure either pump pressure, as you indicate, or cylinder pressure.  The difference was the small amount of pressure drop occurring within the valve.  Since the weakest part of my system is the 2500 psi rated cylinder, I went in that direction.  Also, that location put the gauge further away from the work stream, and I was thinking it was less likely to be broken,  out at the end of the cylinder.

I am not sure whether the  location amounts to much in terms of pressure. Certaintly, i did not measure it.

My gauge always goes to zero, when the valve is closen, and comes alive when the ram is extending.  As you indicate, gauges  are fun to watch.  Oak takes zero pressure, locust about 600 psi, knotty pine almost 1600 psi.  There is no elm out here anymore.   Does anybody have a chart?

Thanks for touching back,

Dave Howell


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## Gooserider (May 4, 2009)

Well, the pump is always circulating on a gas splitter, and would be on an electric unless your setup also turns the motor on and off...  However the valve is an "open center" design, that the fluid just flows through with minimal pressure drop, so it should always go to zero when the valve is in the neutral position, or close as makes no difference.

I find the big variable on splitting isn't so much the kind of wood, as it is the degree of "gnarliness" - i.e. straight grain will split easy, and crotches and knots are tough, regardless of wood type.  Elm doesn't seem to be that bad with a splitter, as what I've found the problem always was with elm isn't getting it to crack, but the way all the strands hold it together so you can't get the splits apart...  With a splitter the wedge just powers through, so it isn't a problem.  The only thing that's annoying is it's a slower splitting wood because you have to run the wedge all the way down, then back up, while with easier splitting varietys you only have to have an inch or two of travel as the splits fall apart soon as the log cracks - so your effective cycle time is shorter.

I have a big 30-ton unit with a 5" cylinder, so my pressures will probably be a lot lower than yours but what I see typically is 

Just cycling the ram up and down, no load - 300psi
Straight grain wood, <12" diameter - 300-600 - no detectable change in engine noise
Small knots, straight grain 12-24" diameter - 500-1000, possible momentary drop to low-range, slight engine "grunt"
Large knots, rounds >24" diameter - 700-1200, definite drop to low range, and definite engine load
Gnarly crotches, ugly stuff - 1200-1800, drop to low range, engine really has to grunt a bit 
I don't recall seeing over 1800 during normal splitting, I will go over 3000 if I hold the lever past the cylinder end of travel, or if I put a peice in cross-ways.  If I let the ram do the auto-return (usually I don't since I don't want to have to wait for it to come back down on the next stroke) it will go over 2500 momentarily before the detent kicks out.

Add a couple hundred PSI to each reading if it's cold and the fluid hasn't had a chance to really warm up...

I don't think a table is possible, other than on an individual machine basis, since there are so many variables, starting with cylinder size, wedge shape, etc.

Gooserider


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## handss (May 18, 2009)

I have owned this splitter for about a year and one should definitely wire it to 220.  The 220 motor is better stronger and works less.  Also when wiring put an on/off switch on the line because a big drawback to the splitter is their is no on/off switch.  I would also be careful about using an extension cord especially one too long because of the voltage drops.  Otherwise the splitter is quite up to the task only having trouble with knots. (as all splitters)  If the piece is very large I split with a wedge and sledgehammer and after splitting manually once I could then use the splitter.  A tree service has been dropping loads on my driveway and the splitter handles everything so far (5 cords) after I split manually once.  Dennis Hershey


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## JayD (May 25, 2009)

I also have this splitter and have been happy. But I'm not one to leave things a lone, wonder? how it would run with a 220v 2hp farm duty 3600 rpm motor. VS the factory 220v 2hp 1800 rpm motor ?  Jay


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## Gooserider (May 25, 2009)

wood said:
			
		

> I also have this splitter and have been happy. But I'm not one to leave things a lone, wonder? how it would run with a 220v 2hp farm duty 3600 rpm motor. VS the factory 220v 2hp 1800 rpm motor ?  Jay



In theory, a hydraulic pump moves a certain amount of fluid per revolution, so a motor that spins twice as fast should move twice as much fluid per minute, halving cycle times, etc...  

However I'd be leary of expecting such great results - 

1. What is the RPM rating on the pump?  Will it take being spun that fast w/o breaking down?

2. It takes more horsepower to move more volume, the usual expectation is a cube/square relationship, so to double the volume should take three times the power - would a motor with the same horsepower output at the higher speed have the power it takes to turn a pump that is moving twice the volume?

Given the general tendency of manufacturers to build things pretty much at the limit of what they are capable of, I would be surprised to see your proposition give much of an improvement if it would even run at all...  My guess is that if the new motor could handle it, you might see it bog down to run somewheres near 1800RPM and produce results not much different from the OEM motor...

Gooserider


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## pdhowell (May 25, 2009)

Hi folks,

Let me  chime  in here, and hopefully be helpful.

A couple of notes on recent posts.... 

 If you have a 20 amp, 10 amp  circuit, for a splitter like this, you need to use a 10 gauge extension cord.  Even though 20 amp house wiring calls for 12 gauge wiring, that is for solid wire.  Stranded wire  (ie., extension cords),  are supposed to be one size larger (10 gauge).  Also, since a circuit  is supposed to run at at only 80 percent capacity, this should really be on a 30 amp breaker, which is 10 gauge wiring.  I have changed the my motor for 220 (easily done, five minutes) for the advantage of cold weather startup.   If you have 30 amp wiring, such as for your drier, as do my neighbors, we just plug into that with a 50 foot 10 gauge extension cord and the drier type plug.  


  have not measured the amp draw. My electrical engineer friends point out that if you do not have voltage drop in your cord, the motor  pulls 2200 watts  wired either way, and it should not make  any difference between the 110 or 220.   The 220 side allows less amp pull on start up , thus diminishing breaker problems.   I ran it on 110 volts for a year, and except for very cold weather in the mountains of western Maryland, i had no electrical issues except in below zero temperatures.  The 110 wired motor never tripped a breaker, even when the valve went to bypass.

Also, electric motors do not slow down.  They run at one speed, and if overloaded, stall and quickly overheat.   My motor has an overheat cut off, never used.   You do not hear the motor change pitch, no matter what the demand from the splitting.

My MTE pump on my splitter is rated at 11 gpm at 4000 rpm. Since the motor turns at 1750, my guess is that if volume is proportional to speed, then my pump is only pumping, say 4 gpm.  (I could be all wrong here, so be careful with this observation). The 3.5 inch cylinder and the 18 inch ram extension requires less volume to extend the ram, and the speed if fine, for me, as I usually work alone.  The cycle time, in and back, unloaded is fourteen seconds.  If the valve kicks down to the high pressure side, for a moment, as it often does, it will be slightly higher.

I have no heating of the oil, which suggests there is no pump cavitation or friction in the hydraulic lines. I believe this is a  benefit of the slower pump speed and lower flow.

An 18" diameter is pretty big  for this splitter, but I do it all the time.  Instead of splitting the round in half, you flop it on the beam and cut splits from outside in.  There is much less hand handling of heavy wood  chunks this way.  A thirty six inch round needs  more power and a bigger wedge than this machine  offers.  I use a monster maul knockoff to  halve  this size before using the splitter.  The  four way wedge can be used for limb wood up to say 10 inches without any problem.  I have a small stove, which I burn hot, and split my wood to sixteen inches and 2" to 4" wide splits.

One advantage of this machine is that the valve is in the center and you can work from either side. I notice that my workflow is one way when I am splitting rounds and stacking.  But it is the other way, when I am taking splits and making kindling ( which i do a lot of, especially for my neighbors, whom  are elderly and I  don't like to see  them using a hatchet.  This machine works very well for this.

I always enjoy this conversation and the good  information  this forum offers,

Dave Howell


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## johnnywarm (Jun 20, 2009)

Sapper12 said:
			
		

> Everyone,
> Thanks for the feedback. I rarely do pieces over 24" DIA, and my stove only accepts pieces 22" in length. I try to cut pieces 16" -18" in length anyways. I think that now I am going to purchase the 16 Ton electric and have it wired for 220V. I will probably run a dedicated outlet to where I will be splitting. I am going to give myself another day or two to think about it, and then I am going to order the machine tomorrow.
> 
> Thanks, Jon



Joh

What did you decide on doing

Thanks John


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## jdinspector (Nov 16, 2009)

Bumping this to the top. What did you find with the new electric ramsplitter? Is it working well? I'm considering the purchase of one, as my gas powered unit blew hte back off of the box beam today. Not really repairable unless I want to spend a bit of money on an OLD splitter.


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## JayD (Nov 16, 2009)

Well mine still runs great, 2-3 working yrs now. I split on average 6 cords a year Lots of elm some maple. I scrounge my wood thats why I get so much elm, as no one wants it. It will split a 20+" elm round no problem! Just work it around the edges roll as you split. The switch is the only thing that I have fixed, I put in a heavy duty toggle switch.  I'm Happy with it. The only thing I need to do is have a table welded up to fit the end so I don't have to pick up the splits. Jay  OOH yea I hate ELM


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## jdinspector (Nov 16, 2009)

Do you have a horizontal/vertical model? Sounds like it's horizontal only.

Also, since you're so kind to respond, I read this thread and see conflicting comments about what size wood it can split. Would it be able to split some of the occasional knarly crotch pieces of elm? If you're splitting elm, I expect that you occassionally get some of those?


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## JayD (Nov 16, 2009)

If their big 20"crotch pieces I halve  them with my saw first. Any smaller one's if ya start on the {straight end and split to the crotch} you can go through them quite easy. You kind of learn how to read them if you know what I mean.  Jay


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## jdinspector (Nov 17, 2009)

yes, I understand reading the grain. Great info. Thanks for your input. I'm heading out to the Ramsplitter office this week or next. They are fairly close to me (about 1-1/2 hours) and seem pretty friendly. The woman I spoke with today told me that they sometimes have splitters around that don't fit the exact specs of what was ordered (I got the impression that they build as they're ordered- a small operation- which is good IMHO)

Perhaps best of all, MADE IN AMERICA. Has a nice ring to it...


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## goody1006 (Nov 17, 2009)

New to the forum (posted about this splitter yesterday in a different section of the forum--not seeing this area--my bad!)

I have an older gas (have no idea exactly how many ton--hubby had it built)  horizontal unit, that I can't move,
service or start by myself.

Lost hubby 2 yr ago--last year had enough wood so didn't need to worry about this.  this year is another story.

I've a bad shoulder/back that prevents me from using anything requiring a 'pull' start, so I've been replacing everything
around here with one, that I can afford to do.

(I bought a stile chain saw with an 'easy start' feature that I still have one heck of a time starting....ONCE started, I can handle it great)

I've a massive amount of black locust to split....some are rather large rounds.  the rest on-hand that's down & seasoned is
knarley oak & fir (some big rounds) with some ponderosa pine thrown in whenever a tree needs to come down on my
5 acres.  

So far this year, I've been going down to the fruit orchards buying yearly trim for 60 bucks a load....but need to get what I have
split & stacked so it's getting used before it rots.  (the locust & oak has been piled, waiting to be split for 2 yr now)

I like the fact I can just plug it in and go--without the mess of gas.

This one also seems small enough that I can move it without someone's help.

I'm reading there's some difference of opinion between 110-vs-220....I've  outlets without any other pull on them which I would be using (110) but could access my dryer's plug without too much hassle, if need be.

Also--I'm a bit confused as to which extension cord to use.....12 or 10??

Depending on the severity of the winter, amount of insulating snow on the ground, what type of wood I'm burning, etc...I can burn between 2-4+ chords of woods a season, so I'm hoping this splitter can handle 4 chords a year without problems.

(I have a nice soapstone woodstove--best investment we made, I think)

Can anyone with one of these give me some advice on how well it will handle the type of wood I have on-hand?

I will be buying which ever splitter I end up choosing, in a week or two.

I'd love to be able to get one under a grand if possible, but it's not looking like that will be possible.

Oh--if it makes a difference--I'm in eastern Washington state (out the east end of the Columbia gorge).
thanks--


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## PJF1313 (Nov 17, 2009)

In line...




			
				goody1006 said:
			
		

> New to the forum (posted about this splitter yesterday in a different section of the forum--not seeing this area--my bad!)
> 
> I have an older gas (have no idea exactly how many ton--hubby had it built)  horizontal unit, that I can't move,
> service or start by myself.
> ...


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## wahoowad (Nov 17, 2009)

I wish I could say I own one, I do not. But I have closely followed every thread about them here (as well as done other research) as I plan to buy one at some point. Most folks say they are glad they got the 220 version, or originally bought the 110 model but were able to convert it. You'll get the gasoline purists who look down their nose at an electric splitter, but none of the people who actually own the electric ones complain. I have a smaller electric (4 ton Ryobi) and love it. The 16 ton should do you fine, maybe get the horizontal/vertical model given your issues with your shoulder. If you ever find a log it can't handle, roll that one into the woods. It will be rare. Get a 10 ga. extension cord, even if you have to buy SJ outdoor cord from Lowes and hook up your own ends.


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## Gooserider (Nov 17, 2009)

goody1006 said:
			
		

> (much trimmed) New to the forum (posted about this splitter yesterday in a different section of the forum--not seeing this area--my bad!)


Welcome to the forum, hope we can help you out...


> I have an older gas (have no idea exactly how many ton--hubby had it built)  horizontal unit, that I can't move,
> service or start by myself.
> 
> I've a bad shoulder/back that prevents me from using anything requiring a 'pull' start, so I've been replacing everything
> around here with one, that I can afford to do.


One option that would help with the starting is to consider getting an electric starter - many OPE engines can be retrofit with one, or can be replaced with an engine that does have a starter. (Some starters will run on 110AC, others will take a 12 volt motorcycle or car type battery)  However a Horizontal only splitter might not be your best option as it requires that you pick up rounds to get them up to the splitter.  I find it easier to use a vertical splitter, others seem to like using vertical to bust up the big rounds and then going horizontal to finish up the chunks and smaller rounds.  A lot may depend on just how your back and shoulder deals with the different sets of motions and lifting involved...  

For moving the thing around, do you have a lawn tractor or ATV, etc?  If so can you get an appropriate hitch put on it?



> I like the fact I can just plug it in and go--without the mess of gas.
> 
> This one also seems small enough that I can move it without someone's help.


While the Ramsplitter is likely smaller and lighter than what you have, judging by your description, I would not consider any splitter in that size class likely to be "small and easy to move".  In order to deal with the forces involved, you flat have to use a certain amount of steel, there is no way around it...  However it will probably be easier at least.  I would still look at getting some sort of "yard mule" and putting a hitch on it rather than shoving the thing around by hand...

In terms of the gas / electric tradeoff, it's a mixed bag - electric is easier in terms of plug in and go, but it hurts in that you are limited to only being able to work in places where you can plug it in....  Gas can be used anywhere you need it to be...  



> I'm reading there's some difference of opinion between 110-vs-220....I've  outlets without any other pull on them which I would be using (110) but could access my dryer's plug without too much hassle, if need be.
> 
> Also--I'm a bit confused as to which extension cord to use.....12 or 10??



OK, let me try to put it in non-technical terms...  starting with definitions, in many ways electricity acts like water pressure, and it can be easier to think of wiring as being like plumbing...  Voltage is the electrical "pressure"
Current is the amount of electrons going past a given point in the wire.  Power is the ability of electricity to perform work, and is equal to the Voltage times the Current.  Wire gage is the size of your electric "pipe"

When you run electricity through a wire, it looses a certain amount of power as it goes.  How much is a function of the size of the wire, the distance traveled, and the amount of current being used...  The Ramsplitter, or any other electric splitter is going to draw a LOT of power, so it will cause a sizable power drop.  Using a 10 gage extension cord will reduce the amount of drop, because it's a bigger cord (Electric cord numbers run backwards - the lower the number, the bigger the wire)

110v vs 220v is a question of the amount of electrical "pressure" being applied across the wire, and because electrical power (ability to perform work) is a function of both the voltage and the current, increasing the voltage lowers the current needed to get the same amount of work done.  Thus the BEST approach is to use a 10g power cord, and wire everything for 220v - this minimizes the power lost in the cord, and will give you the most power at the splitter.  It is also very important to keep the length of the power cord as short as possible...  Note that you might or might not be able to run safely off your drier outlet - check w/ an electrician, I don't want to go into wiring details here...

[/quote]Depending on the severity of the winter, amount of insulating snow on the ground, what type of wood I'm burning, etc...I can burn between 2-4+ chords of woods a season, so I'm hoping this splitter can handle 4 chords a year without problems.

You might have to play with the wood a bit more, in terms of nibbling away at the edges, or planning how to work the splits, but I would expect the Ramsplitter to have no trouble w/ handling that kind of quantity, or kinds of wood.

Gooserider


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## JayD (Nov 17, 2009)

If you have Central air conditioning you will have a 220v power source right there. that you can tap into. Just don't run both at the same time,  Jay


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## jdinspector (Nov 19, 2009)

OK, I visited the Ramsplitter fabrication shop yesterday, saw a 16 ton unit in operation, and ordered one. I'll pick it up next week. It's smaller than I expected, but then, I'm a homeowner using it for 4 cords a year. I expect it will be just fine. I'm going to be more selective about what I pick up in the future and look for mid-sized rounds with straight grain. Frankly, not too concerned about that. 4 cords isn't a lot, so I can afford to be selective.

The electric unit, which I'm purchasing, is a bit louder than I expected. I thought it would have a low electric motor hum, but actually has a whine from the hydraulic pump. In any case, you can talk over it, albeit a little loud. It should work for me.

I looked at their website and saw that they also do custom colors (i.e. John Deere Green) which is appealing to me. I'll call and ask. The other part is that they can make one with a little longer ram for me, if I want. The standard unit has 20" ram. I just might want to go larger/longer. Overall, great people to work with.

And, as I said earlier, MADE IN AMERICA. I feel good about helping out a poor economy. Rockford, IL is reeling in this recession and I feel good about helping out.


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## pdhowell (Nov 20, 2009)

Hi folks,

I have the same Ramsplitter 16 horizontal/vertical model and find it very satisfactory after two years.  The criticism  that it is limited to an electrical outlet and cord is somewhat misleading.  When in the woods, it runs fine off a 3500 watt generator.  I also get lights off the generator allowing me to work after I get home.  At home, it is near my woodpile, in the winter,  in my garage for making kindling (no fumes). It is sometimes used very early in the morning (no noise)  because of the electric motor.  The pump whine is irritating, but a radio or conversation with others overwhelms it.

It will split anything I can lift on the beam, and is  an excellent kindling maker, thus it has a very nice balance for the homeowner.  The build quality if much better than the production splitters I have seen.  The components are all generic and can be easily replaced at any farm supply or hydraulic shop.  

For what it is worth, this splitter is working every day for a family where the dad lost his job, then sprained his back cutting firewood.  This guys wife, daughters (and boy friends) are using this splitter in a shed, out of the wind and with dry footing underneath.  They bring the rounds in with a tractor loader, and refill the bucket with splits.  Five buckets is a $250 load  in dump trailer.  The throughput, with two people,  is about the same as a gas engine/four inch cylinder.  To the present, it seems to be solid and trouble free.  Hope this helps, dh, Maryland


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## jdinspector (Nov 21, 2009)

PDHowell, 

Thanks for your information. I'm committed to one now (I ordered it and will pick up in a few days). Just joking here, but maybe I made a mistake... I had mine wired for 240 volts. I knew I would have to purchase a long extension cord, and I wanted a good, safe install that would never overheat. I purchased a 10 gauge, 100 foot cord along with an appropriate outdoor (watertight) receptacle. The parts (cord, twist-lock plugs, outdoor wiring harness (liquid-tite) and miscellaneous items cost over $200. The cord was $92 plus tax! All in all, I'm sure I'll be happy, but I was a little bit put off when it was all tallied up. Did anyone else have this type of expense when purchasing a large electric splitter?


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## pdhowell (Nov 22, 2009)

JDinspector,

I think you are wise to get this splitter wired for 240 volts.  The amp draw is less at startup, and you have no problems with circuit breakers not holding.  I only had had the circuit breaker problem when my motor was wired 110 and it was very cold (below zero, and ATF hydraulic fluid).  It  was frustrating not being able to just turn my splitter on, as I was used to.  I got in the habit and splitting the days supply of kindling before going to work each day.

Price wise, a ten gauge 50 foot cord is about $50 here at the HomeDepot/Lowes stores we have around here, about what you quoted.   I run my splitter off a an already installed  welding outlet in a shed, so did not have any other expense.  Around here,  with 20 cent per kilowatt electricity, the full electrical draw would cost about forty cents per hour, actually much less, because the motor draws it's full amperage only when making it's max torque, which is only momentary when the relief valve opens at 2500 psi.  This which hardly ever happens.  My gauge very seldom goes above 1000 psi, and then just for a second as the wood is split.  I have never seen any affect of my splitting on my electric bill.

My thought  is that you soon recover the cost of the any electrical investment. I am guessing twenty cents max as opposed to a couple of bucks per hour for gas.  However, to be honest, I have not run a gas splitter since I rented them years ago.  My mowers/snow blowers seem to use about a gallon an hour.

I think you will like your splitter.  It will split everything I have set on the beam (except for one large walnut burl that had no grain, anywhere), it is quiet with some pump whine, and can be used anywhere, anytime.  Even deep in the woods with a generator.

For what it is worth, a wood stove and a generator makes you pretty safe combination, no matter what the weather.

Hope this helps,   Dave Howell


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## JayD (Nov 22, 2009)

Congrats! I shoped some of the salvage yards and found a 8g big motorhome power cord only 50ft but the price was right and twist locks were aleady there. You may need fluid 5 gal at auto zone. Whats with this pump whine? Mine don't whine? What RPM are these running at ? Mine is 1750 rpm, Is he now putting the 3000 rpm motors on his splitters.


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## pdhowell (Nov 22, 2009)

Hi folks,

Just to clarify, there is some noise with my electric splitter.  There is an electric hum,  and there is also some pump noise, that may or may not be noticeable depending upon location.  Outside, the motor pump noise is not significant.  In fact, my biggest problem with this splitter is not turning it off.  When I bring my 1750 rpm splitter inside my garage for the winter to split kindling, the motor hum and pump whine is noticeable, not that you need ear  protection, but you do remember to turn the motor off.  Hope this helps, Dave Howell


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## JayD (Nov 22, 2009)

OK I understand, I use mine outside next to my pile thats the difference. Its sure is nice all the nabours here is the actual wood splitting if they have windows open.  Jay


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## Gooserider (Nov 22, 2009)

Price sounds about right on the electrical stuff - copper wire is expensive, no way around it...  I also agree that you are best off getting wired for 240, it is much better for high power draw items.

Just as a note on fuel consumption - my 30 ton w/ a 9hp Subaru-robin will run for about 12 hours on a gallon tank of gas, and makes somewhat less noise than our lawn tractor or snowblower, I wear ear protection but more on general principles than because I feel like it's really essential...

On my friends 20 ton, w/ a 6hp Honda, we can split for about 6 hours on a little under a gallon, and again, noise isn't that much of an issue...

Gooserider


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## pdhowell (Nov 22, 2009)

Gooserider and other good folks,

The joy of this forum  to me is that you get the experience of lots of good people, and you get to see some excellent fabricators, both those who use what they can scrounge , and other who have access to great  equipment, design and fabrication tools.    Also, there is a spirit here, of people working hard, being honest, providing a renewable heating fuel for their families, and  to the greater community.

Back to the topic of gaoline use, my gas engines, Honda (lawn mower) and Tecumseh (snow blowers), and generator (Honda) all use about a gallon of gas an hour.  I was out of line extrapolating that experience to splitters, especially when my last experience with a gas splitters (rented) was several years ago.

To me,  to get 12 hours  of run time out of a gallon of gas in any working engine is great.  I wish I  could come close to that.


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## SolarAndWood (Nov 22, 2009)

Gooserider said:
			
		

> Just as a note on fuel consumption - my 30 ton w/ a 9hp Subaru-robin will run for about 12 hours on a gallon tank of gas,
> 
> On my friends 20 ton, w/ a 6hp Honda, we can split for about 6 hours on a little under a gallon



Is the 6 hp working a lot harder than the 9 hp?  Kinda like the gently driven V8 doing better than an 80s era underpowered 4 banger?


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## Gooserider (Nov 22, 2009)

SolarAndWood said:
			
		

> Gooserider said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Many ways the 6hp is working harder...  First off, because it is a 20 ton as opposed to the 30 ton, any given split requires more engine effort simply because the resistance is a greater percentage of the splitter output...  I notice that it is fairly unusual for my 30 ton to kick into the high pressure pump mode, and when it does, it is only for a second or two.  My friend's 20 does so on about half the splits, just because his machine doesn't get as much pressure on the wedge in low pressure mode...

Secondly, when I'm using my splitter I have to spend a significant amount of time moving wood into position to be grabbed and split - I'm working by myself and one can only stack the incoming pile so high...  When I'm using my friends machine, he has a front end loader that he uses to keep pushing the work pile up to me, so I never have to stop other than for water and potty breaks - thus while I'm on my splitter, it is actively cycling about 20% of the time, when I'm on his machine it's more like 75-80% as all I'm doing is grabbing a round off the pile on one side of me, splitting it, and tossing the splits onto the conveyor on the other side of me...

Lastly, his splitter has a slightly smaller tank...

Gooserider


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## SolarAndWood (Nov 23, 2009)

Gooserider said:
			
		

> thus while I'm on my splitter, it is actively cycling about 20% of the time, when I'm on his machine it's more like 75-80% as all I'm doing is grabbing a round off the pile on one side of me, splitting it, and tossing the splits onto the conveyor on the other side of me...



Gotcha...have to love that kind of productivity.


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## Gooserider (Nov 23, 2009)

Yes, its one of the reason I mention cycle time so often when talking about splitters...  He also has a Supersplit and when the two of us start really cranking we can fill one of his trailers with between two and three FULL cords in about 5-6 hours...  The comparison is interesting, as he can split faster than I can with the SS, but he also has a lot more down time for cleaning and maintenance on the machine, so we stay about even overall...

Gooserider


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## jdinspector (Nov 25, 2009)

I picked up my new 16 ton electric ramsplitter last night. I hooked it up this morning, filled it with hydro oil and ran through some logs. Pix to follow after Thanksgiving. Some observations:

The unit is quiet. I think the demo model that they had at their shop was a bit loud, as well as the fact that it was inside a fabrication shop area that was very echo prone. My neighbor came over and we ran it while having a conversation. Cool!

The unit is not as strong as my old gas powered model. Granted, I was splitting SOAKING wet Maple, but it struggled with some gnarly stuff. The log that had broken my old splitter was my 2nd log on the new machine. It hung up on this one, just like the old splitter did. But after freeing it and moving it around, I was able to whittle off pieces and break the whole thing down to stove size. That was the first log the old splitter wouldn't go through, so it was sweet revenge to break it down with this new splitter. I'm sure a 30 ton gas unit would probably have pushed through it, but I don't run into too many of these. The 4 way wedge works good too. I think with wet maple, it's max sze is 14" rounds. I split a piece of 20" (round) elm in half and then threw the 4 way on it and it went through "like buttah". Ash and Oak would work well. Cool

It's slower than my old splitter, and goes into "power" mode more often, but for my use, it's fine. I split about 4 cords a year, so no biggie.

The jury is out for me on whether vertical is the way to go. Certainly for large rounds, it's the way to go, but for manageable rounds (if you're in a hurry) horizontal seems to work better for me. Note that I have only split 5 logs on the thing in vertical mode, so may have a learning curve.

The unit had a loose hydraulic line when I ran it for the first time. Some oil oozed out of a fitting. simple tightening and it works fine. Another line was partially kinked in vertical mode. Also a loosen/move/re-tighten and done with that. 

I had two "custom" things done at no charge. I asked for an additional 2" of length on the beam. Since they make these custom, that was no problem. I also noticed on their website that they will paint other colors than their standard blue. Since I have a John Deere Green trailer, I asked for them to paint it that color. They obliged, happily. Kind of neat to have it personalized.

The miscellaneous items are a bit more expensive that I had anticipated. I just didn't think through the cost of the extension cord, 220 volt plugs, disconnects, etc. In an earlier post, I talked about spending over $200 on cords, etc. The unit only had a 2 foot long pig tail and I wanted longer, so I had to run out and get 25 feet of 10/3 cord. I'm sure I could have gotten away with 12/3 and gone shorter, but I wanted to do this once and be done. It works great on 220 volts and the heavy cord. I think the additional costs will be outweighed by the quietness, ease of maintenance (what maintenance?) and ease of portability. The unit is EASY to move around. I'm not counting on much savings for operating costs, as discussed earlier in this thread.

Thanks all for the input on this unit. So far, I'm a happy camper.


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## Gooserider (Nov 25, 2009)

Thanks for the positive report...  It's about what I expected judging by what other Ramsplitter owners have said, but it is good to see another positive review...

Note that even though the electric side won't have much, if any maintenance needed (maybe oil the bearings and blow the dust out of it occasionally, depending on the motor type) you will still need to deal with the hydraulic side, probably do a filter change every year or two, and a fluid change every 4-5 years or so....  Not much, but some upkeep on that side.  Also remember to always store it with the cylinder retracted in order to protect the chrome.

Gooserider


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## SolarAndWood (Nov 25, 2009)

jdinspector said:
			
		

> Thanks all for the input on this unit. So far, I'm a happy camper.



Glad you like it.  With the round that stopped it, did you notice any flex in the beam before the hydraulics stopped?


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## jdinspector (Nov 26, 2009)

Yes, the beam does flex. I can see the whole machine sort of "stretch" when it's under load. As I said above, it does go into high pressure (power) mode pretty often. I think the wood I was splitting yesterday was wet and really made a difference on how hard the unit had to work. I also noticed a lot of "chopping" as it went through the wood. I didn't notice too much of that with the old splitter, but the motor noise probably covered that noise. It occurs when the wood is really wet and the wedge moves, then hangs up for a second, then moves again. "Chopping" is closest I can think of- you know, sort of when it's shearing the wood rather than splitting it? Water was oozing out of all of the logs as I split them. Like I said, really wet wood (for use two years from now). I'm anxious to run through some ash or oak.


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## pdhowell (Nov 27, 2009)

Jdinspector,

Thanks for sharing your experience. I will check my splitter for  beam flexing.  I have never observed it, but then never precisely measured for it either. I have a precision machinists straight edge and will check  the beam by forcing it into valve bypass.  I hope that I haven't given you or anybody else here any bad advice, because I have been very enthusiastic about my splitter.  (And mine is working everyday, inside in an open shed , for a family whose only income right now,  is wood.)   I, we,  only split sixteen to eighteen inch lengths.


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## SolarAndWood (Nov 27, 2009)

I haven't seen a small residential class machine that doesn't flex a little with a gnarly round.  That is a lot of force using the foot or beam mounted wedge as a lever.    I am kind of surprised we don't hear about more failures like jdinspector's mtd.


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## pdhowell (Nov 27, 2009)

JDinspector,

Your observation about the beam bending surprised me, so I though I would measure mine, to see if there was any deflection.  I clamped a .125 (1/8 inch) gauge block under each end of a  twenty four inch machinist straightedge under the beam.  When I put a piece of locust in cross   wise , stalling the wedge at the pump bypass point, I could get a a .120 flat gauge in with a very  tight fit.  That would be a .005 inch deflection at the greatest pressure possible.  At any pressure  less than this, no measurable deflection was noted, always a tight .125. 

My valve with a decent quality gauge attached just before the cylinder was showing about 3000psi.  The surprised me, because I thought I set it up for 2500 bypass pressure.  Delivered from the factory it was set about 2200 psi, so I had bumped it a bit.  Apparently it has crept up and should be reset to 2500 psi, the rating of the cylinder.

There is side to side play built into the cylinder mount that seems to allow the cylinder to move a a bit.  
This seems to prevent side pressure on the rings in the cylinder.  I don't know for sure if this understanding is correct, but my ram does move a small amount, maybe 1/8 inch laterally.  Is this the stretching to which you refer?

If you sharpen the wedge with a file, it cuts/crushes through grain easily.  I find I have to put some grease to keep the sharpened metal edge from  rusting because my splitter is outside, under a grill cover, when not being used. I haven't noticed the stuttering you spoke of.  You might want to check the valve pressure setting, the gauges are not expensive, and the adjustment is easy.  Hope this is useful.



dh, Maryland


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## jdinspector (Nov 28, 2009)

Great info. The "stuttering" is a better word for what I've heard. I split about 2/3 of a cord today. I checked my hydraulic level about 1/2 way through and found that it was low. I guess I hadn't checked since the original fill up. In any case, when I filled it back up (not completely full, but 3/4" from the top of the tank) it seemed much stronger than before. I split through some large maple rounds today, many of which were anything but straight grained. It ran through all of them! As before, I had to nibble away around the edge, but it did split everything that I ran into it today. Some photos attached... The round in the picture had already been split in half when I took the picture. The little splitter ran through the middle of this one without a problem.

Great splitter. Very happy so far. I've split about a cord since I got it. Quiet is the key word here!


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## Gooserider (Nov 28, 2009)

Definitely looks like a nice machine...  One very minor comment - I've tried several different things for sitting on while splitting, and found that a milk crate works better for me than a bucket.  Seems to hold my weight a bit better, and I like the very slightly larger size and shape of the sitting surface...  I also found the bucket was a little to tall, the milk crate gets me at a better height. However the best seat is what I have over where I work with my friend, he has a padded mechanics height stool, with a swiveling seat.  Comfy, and allows me to turn easier to reach the rounds on the "to be done" pile that are behind me...

Of course everyone's preferences are different, so whatever works - just mentioned as it is something you might find helpful to experiment with.

Gooserider


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## b121 (Nov 28, 2009)

jdinspector said:
			
		

> I had two "custom" things done at no charge. I asked for an additional 2" of length on the beam. Since they make these custom, that was no problem. I also noticed on their website that they will paint other colors than their standard blue. Since I have a John Deere Green trailer, I asked for them to paint it that color. They obliged, happily. Kind of neat to have it personalized.



I have been lurking in the back ground following the comments and I had a question about your new Ramsplitter, if you don't mind.
In a previous thread you mentioned you ordered the beam to be 2 inches longer. 
I was wondering how many inches does the wedge on your splitter get from the foot when fully extended ?


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## jdinspector (Nov 28, 2009)

The wedge stops about 4" from the foot. I found that on some elm, it didn't split all of the way through. I put a block on the foot to make sure it went all the way through the few pieces that don't fully split. Maple splits fine, as I expect ash and oak will too. Stringy wood (elm!) has always been a problem on every splitter that I used.


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