# WOODBOSS 028?



## Rickb (Feb 28, 2014)

Anyone know what 1 of thee in good shape is worth?  Looking at putting a offer on one of these.


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## NH_Wood (Mar 1, 2014)

If in good shape, and I were buying, I'd be okay with about $150 - in nice shape. Cheers!


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## Rickb (Mar 1, 2014)

He is wanting $300.  I sent him a email offering $200 it has an extra bar and chain.  And he sent me a nasty email back explaining what $300 firm means. lol


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## smokedragon (Mar 1, 2014)

At least around my area, you can do better.  I got an 028 AV that needed a new chain for $150.  It was well maintained and runs great.

$200 is a fair offer.  Keep looking.  Have you tried craigslist?

Growing up we had Maccullough, homelite, etc.  Friend of mine talked me into buying a Stihl 4 years ago and I will not own any other brand.  Between volunteer work, storm clean up, and cutting wood for me and my parents, my MS290 has a ton of hours each year.  Clean the air filter once a year and keep a sharp chain on it, it will never let you down.

Best of luck.


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## Rickb (Mar 1, 2014)

This was on craigslist.  I have a 18" craftsman that works great on anything smaller then 14" but like today we were cutting up 18-22" trunks and my little saw just doesnt have enough ass or chain.  Lookign for something to chew up larger diameter logs.


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## smokedragon (Mar 1, 2014)

I was in that same boat.....bought a Stihl MS290.  It has an 18" bar, and will cut bigger than that (with a second pass on the back).  Stihl's are great machines.  There are others, but there are many of them out there for sale. 

Be patient.  There are folks who think their 20 year old saw is worth 80% of new.  Keep looking and you will find one.  I used to have a smaller saw with an 18" bar, but it would not cut through an 18" tree.

Word of advice.  Get a saw with a thicker bar that will take a professional chain (with out all of the kickback measures).  You are looking for an 0.063 gauge bar (standard on all of the Stihls).  Many other brands that market to professionals use these too.  You can get a much more aggressive chain for these saws.  You will be happy, and NEVER own a 0.050 gauge chain again.


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## NH_Wood (Mar 2, 2014)

300 is a crazy price for that saw - they are a dime a dozen used saw around here- see them all the time. One on CL here that looks pretty decent for $150. Hold off and deals will come - and don't just hold off for an 028 - nothing wrong with them, but they aren't a saw to dream about. Cheers!


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## 1970roadrunner (Mar 2, 2014)

And an 028 isn't a much bigger saw.  If you're looking for a saw that will be better for 24" diameter wood, you should be able to find a good medium sized saw (60-70cc) in the $300 range.


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## Rickb (Mar 2, 2014)

I also want to watch the weight.  Don't want something too heavy.  Trying to lowball a MS310 right now.  Looks like that would be good with a 20" bar and I will throw a 16" bar on my craftsman.  Use the craftsman for limbs and smaller stuff then the 310 on the large limbs and trunks.

I also see a MS290...  I assume that is going to be similar to the 028?


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## Iatrapper (Mar 2, 2014)

I paid $390 for my brand new 290 last year. $300 is way to much for a used one.


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## salecker (Mar 2, 2014)

Rickb said:


> I also want to watch the weight.  Don't want something too heavy.  Trying to lowball a MS310 right now.  Looks like that would be good with a 20" bar and I will throw a 16" bar on my craftsman.  Use the craftsman for limbs and smaller stuff then the 310 on the large limbs and trunks.
> 
> I also see a MS290...  I assume that is going to be similar to the 028?


Hi Rickb
 The MS310 is a clamshell saw.Try to wait for a MS360/1/2,or 036.If you want a little lighter look for the 026 or MS260/1/2. The Ms310 is the same saw as MS290
 Thomas


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## Rickb (Mar 2, 2014)

What does clamshell saw mean?


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## smokedragon (Mar 3, 2014)

Rickb said:


> I also see a MS290... I assume that is going to be similar to the 028?


MS 290 is a newer version of the 029.  It is made to run 18 - 20" bar.  Mine has an 18" bar and has plenty of power.  A great saw.


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## salecker (Mar 3, 2014)

Rickb said:


> What does clamshell saw mean?


Clamshell refers to the way the motor is built.On the clamshell the cylinder and 1/2 the crankcase is one piece.Usually a homeowner grade saw.The Professional saws have a removable cylinder,and a crankcase that is split to remove the crank.All the husky's,poulans in Walmart/Lowes are clamshell saws.Cheap construction,throwaway saws for the most part.
 If you are thinking about the MS290,go for the MS310,same saw more power
 Thomas


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## smokedragon (Mar 3, 2014)

salecker said:


> If you are thinking about the MS290,go for the MS310,same saw more power


If they are the same price I agree.  

For the average wood cutter (5 cord/yr) the 290 is a fine saw.  There are people around me who have Stihl 041 magnums with 18" bars on them.  Yes, it has more power than a MS290, but do you need it?

Upgrading to a professional type saw with a 63 gauge chain, he will love any of them after running that basic saw.


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## Rickb (Mar 3, 2014)

I was actually very impressed the craftsman did as well as it did.  As long as the chain was sharp it cut very well for a saw as old and abused as it was.  Just didnt do well on the big stuff.

So it looks like my best bet would be the ms360/036 or the MS260/026 because both of these are rebuild able?


EDIT: Another question... Is the MS361 just a newer MS360?


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## salecker (Mar 4, 2014)

They are all rebuild able,you will get more power with less weight with the 026 MS260.And a slight increase in weight with the 036 MS360,but another increase in power.
 The 361 came after the 360 and now there is the 362.Same as the 260 series.
 The best increase in power on a saw is a sharp chain.
 Thomas


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## Clarkbug (Mar 4, 2014)

smokedragon said:


> If they are the same price I agree.
> 
> For the average wood cutter (5 cord/yr) the 290 is a fine saw.  There are people around me who have Stihl 041 magnums with 18" bars on them.  Yes, it has more power than a MS290, but do you need it?
> 
> Upgrading to a professional type saw with a 63 gauge chain, he will love any of them after running that basic saw.



Just a quick note here.  Running .050 or .058 gauge chain doesn't make a saw any less professional.  The teeth are still the same thickness, only the width of the driver is thicker.  

For instance, I have an 026 that is .063, but my 038 is no less professional, and it came from the shop with a .050 chain.


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## blacktail (Mar 4, 2014)

salecker said:


> The best increase in power on a saw is a sharp chain.



My neighbor has a 360. Compared to my saw, it sounds like a beast when he has it wide open. I can out cut him 3 to 1 with my 290 because he can't sharpen a chain to save his life.


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## 1970roadrunner (Mar 4, 2014)

Clarkbug said:


> Just a quick note here.  Running .050 or .058 gauge chain doesn't make a saw any less professional.  The teeth are still the same thickness, only the width of the driver is thicker.
> 
> For instance, I have an 026 that is .063, but my 038 is no less professional, and it came from the shop with a .050 chain.


I agree.  058 3/8 chain has been used professionally for years.  058 is standard equipment on larger husky pro saws (at least where I live anyway). 

I think there is some confusion.  Stihl uses "green" and "yellow" to identify casual use and professional chain and bars.  Green "safety" chain means chain that has had some form of "anti kickback" built into the design, whereas the yellow or "pro" chain has traditional cutters with no anti-kickback features.  The yellow stuff will always cut better.  

If you have a .050 gauge bar, simply replace it with .050 yellow "pro" chain and you will get the same results.  No need to upgrade to the .063 bar unless you want to.


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## Rickb (Mar 4, 2014)

So....  Was BSing with a guy from work and he happens to have his old saw sitting around collecting dust!  It's an older 028 with low compression.  I told him sure.  I figure I can pull it apart and fix whatever is wrong and if nothing else throw a 16" bar and chain on it and use it to replace my craftsman.  Looks like if it needs an whole new upper end its around $150.  Unless someone has a good place for cheap parts?  I will continue to look for a decently priced ms360/036 or MS260/026.  


First time playing with a saw but I figure if I can rebuild a 302, 305, or 350 a small 2 stroke shouldn't be too bad.


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## salecker (Mar 5, 2014)

If it hasn't scored the piston you should be alright with a new set of rings.The cylinder has to be in real rough shape before they wouln't clean up.If you want to go aftermarket look for Caber rings,Meteor pistons.
 For good service and prices on aftermarket parts PM me and i'll give you the name of a place i use.
 Thomas


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## Clarkbug (Mar 5, 2014)

Rickb said:


> So....  Was BSing with a guy from work and he happens to have his old saw sitting around collecting dust!  It's an older 028 with low compression.  I told him sure.  I figure I can pull it apart and fix whatever is wrong and if nothing else throw a 16" bar and chain on it and use it to replace my craftsman.  Looks like if it needs an whole new upper end its around $150.  Unless someone has a good place for cheap parts?  I will continue to look for a decently priced ms360/036 or MS260/026.
> 
> 
> First time playing with a saw but I figure if I can rebuild a 302, 305, or 350 a small 2 stroke shouldn't be too bad.



An 028 will serve you just fine.  As Thomas mentioned, its pretty easy to fix most things on that saw.  When you get it, pull the muffler off to look for scoring.  It the piston is gnarly, dont take it apart further until you can figure out why.  (Its usually an air leak, sawdust ingestion, straight gas, or carbon scoring)  He is also right that a meteor piston and caber rings is a good aftermarket solution.

Be aware there are three different diameters of piston for that saw, so you will need to measure carefully before you order any parts.  

Before you go too far, pick up a long handled T-27 driver.  That should take care of the majority of what you will need, and you cant pull the cylinder without one.


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## Rickb (Mar 5, 2014)

Clarkbug said:


> An 028 will serve you just fine.  As Thomas mentioned, its pretty easy to fix most things on that saw.  When you get it, pull the muffler off to look for scoring.  It the piston is gnarly, dont take it apart further until you can figure out why.  (Its usually an air leak, sawdust ingestion, straight gas, or carbon scoring)  He is also right that a meteor piston and caber rings is a good aftermarket solution.
> 
> Be aware there are three different diameters of piston for that saw, so you will need to measure carefully before you order any parts.
> 
> Before you go too far, pick up a long handled T-27 driver.  That should take care of the majority of what you will need, and you cant pull the cylinder without one.




Thanks for the info.  I assume when you say air leak you mean at the carburetor?


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## Clarkbug (Mar 5, 2014)

Rickb said:


> Thanks for the info.  I assume when you say air leak you mean at the carburetor?



I mean a torn intake boot, impulse line, or bad seal.  Basically anything that will have the engine run lean by sucking air.  Then they run hot, and that causes a lean seize.


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## smokedragon (Mar 5, 2014)

1970roadrunner said:


> I agree. 058 3/8 chain has been used professionally for years. 058 is standard equipment on larger husky pro saws (at least where I live anyway).
> I think there is some confusion. Stihl uses "green" and "yellow" to identify casual use and professional chain and bars. Green "safety" chain means chain that has had some form of "anti kickback" built into the design, whereas the yellow or "pro" chain has traditional cutters with no anti-kickback features. The yellow stuff will always cut better.
> If you have a .050 gauge bar, simply replace it with .050 yellow "pro" chain and you will get the same results. No need to upgrade to the .063 bar unless you want to.



I don't disagree......but if you go buy XYZ brand (homelite, ryobi, etc) with 50 gauge chain, it will be a lower profile (smaller than 3/8) and be loaded with anti-kickback features.  I have never found a 3/8" 63 gauge chain with all the anti-kickback junk.

Some people like that stuff, but for me, it just slows me down.  I want chain that will throw chips big enough to use for bedding in a gerbil cage.  No matter how sharp you get those anti-kickback chains, they won't do that.


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## Rickb (Mar 5, 2014)

So got that 028 from my buddy at work....  Its pretty rough.  It has no compression at all.  Will rip it apart this weekend and see what is going on with it.  It may not be worth fixing this, we will see...


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## Clarkbug (Mar 5, 2014)

Rickb said:


> So got that 028 from my buddy at work....  Its pretty rough.  It has no compression at all.  Will rip it apart this weekend and see what is going on with it.  It may not be worth fixing this, we will see...



Nothing?  Hmmmmm.  

Its hard to beat free.  Unless it needs a lot of other stuff, you can probably come out ahead.

Post pics along the way and we will help get you sorted.


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## Rickb (Mar 5, 2014)

Will do...


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## Rickb (Mar 8, 2014)

Ok pics as promised. 

Saw was really dirty:




Cleaned up a bit:




Inside of the cylinder looks ok.  No gouges.  Will take it in to have it honed most likely:







I think i know why there was no compression.  The bottom ring was pushed into the slot with no springyness.  Top ring seemed ok till I broke it:




Piston definatley needs to be replaced, lots of build up:





Fuel line and impulse lines will need to be replaced as well as all the upper gaskets.  Carb looks fantastic but will be rebuilt as well.  Need to do some more cleaning before I reassemble.  BTW does anyone put some oil on the crankshaft before putting the cylinder back on?  I sprayed it out really well with carb cleaner and will some more once I get more of the dirt off.

EDIT:  Also I measured the cylinder size with my micrometer and it measures at 43.72mm.  Any idea what size rebuild kit I need then? 44?


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## Clarkbug (Mar 8, 2014)

Looks like you have a good project saw there!  

You dont need to replace the piston if the only issue is buildup.  That will clean of without too much issue.  In your last pic the top groove does look a bit funky, maybe its just the photo.  I havent honed a cylinder on these saws, since its easy to go through the nikasil coating.  If its smooth inside without any gouges, I would just buff it with some wet/dry sandpaper by hand and call it good.  

Get a meteor piston, caber rings (a number of sources should have these), and dont forget a new piston pin bearing.  New fuel and impulse line are really good ideas, check your tank vent and it wouldnt hurt to check the oil line.  While you are pulling it apart and cleaning, pull the other side and check your sprocket.  See if that is in good shape or needs some love.  

Also good to check your AV mounts, as the fronts can get pretty gummy over the years.  

You are a 44mm piston.  The really early 028wb's were 42, and the supers were 46.  Looks like yours has a chainbrake, which puts it later in the production run. If you need a bar/chain, I think that Baileys has a closeout combo on a Carlton chain/timberchamp laminated bar for relatively cheap.


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## Rickb (Mar 8, 2014)

I got a 20" bar and chain as well with this but want to down size to a 16" bar and a very aggressive chain.  Once I get a 036/360/361 I will use it with a 20"  This is going to be for smaller stuff and limbing.

Any suggestions on the bar and chain?  I know nothing on chains and sizing.


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## Clarkbug (Mar 8, 2014)

I have run 16" through 18" for my 028.  My 026 and 028 both run .325 chains, and I have 16", 17", and 18" bars.  The 17" was a Baileys deal thing, bar and chain were both less than ten bucks, so I bit.  

So the bigger question is going to be if you want to be able to swap bars/chains with a bigger saw (assuming you stick with Stihl).  If for instance you were to get an 036, that will probably use a .375 pitch chain, and a .050 gauge bar.  The 028 came with a .063 gauge bar, but could be either .325 or .375 pitch.  

Lots of guys like to keep the pitch the same so they can have one filing setup or one wheel for the grinder.  I just started down the .325 path, so Im going to stick with it.

You should check to see what you have for a sprocket on the saw now.  You might need to change that depending on what choice you make.  Any markings on the sprocket thats on there now?

My advice would be to buy a 16" bar, .325 pitch, .063 gauge for it.  Keeps it light for smaller stuff, the smaller pitch wont bog it down if you get into hard woods, and that way you arent trying to make a decision based on what a future saw might be.


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## salecker (Mar 8, 2014)

Hi Rickb
 It looks like a piece of the piston is broke above the rings ?
 You don't need to hone the cylinder,just wetsand off any transfer if there is any.Then take a 3/8 eybolt and a red scotch bright pad.Thread the pad through the eyebolt and chuck it in a drill and polish the inside of the cylinder.
 If it was me i would think about doing the seals at the same time,then you can flush the case real good,in case there is a piece of the piston missing.
 Watch the carb cleaner it may take the powder coat off the inside of the crankcase.
 You should end up with a great saw.
 A guy i know gave me an 026 today,he likes huskys and it needs some work.But free is always nice.
 Thomas


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## Rickb (Mar 8, 2014)

The piston is fine.  There is build up on top of it and a small piece of the build up broke off from me messing with it.

I am planning on replacing the piston do to the way the rings are sitting in it.


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## Rickb (Mar 9, 2014)

So I started looking at the bar he gave me here are a couple pics:








So I assume .325 pitch but no idea on the other stuff.  The sprocket has no markings on it.


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## mark cline (Mar 9, 2014)

.325 pitch  .063 gauge 74 drive links


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## Rickb (Mar 16, 2014)

Ok so new parts are here!

Quick question tho.  Is this the correct orientation for the ring or do I need to flip it over.


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## Clarkbug (Mar 17, 2014)

Rickb said:


> Ok so new parts are here!
> 
> Quick question tho.  Is this the correct orientation for the ring or do I need to flip it over.



Thats the right way for the ring.

Also make sure that the arrow goes towards the exhaust.  I use a light coating of 2-stroke oil (not mixed with gas) on everything when putting it back together, and I would rinse the case out with some mix before putting it all back together.  Adds some lube and helps rinse out anything that might have fallen in there.


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## Rickb (Mar 17, 2014)

Will do thanks!


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## Rickb (Mar 18, 2014)

Got it together.  Definitely has compression now.  It however does not have spark..  I pulled the cover and the ignition coil is dirty but the wires look ok.  going to look online how to check it out then order a new one I guess.


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## Clarkbug (Mar 18, 2014)

First thing to check is the ground wire, they like to rub holes in the insulation and ground themselves out.  Easy way to check is to just disconnect the kill wire at the coil and see if you get spark then.  Re-set the gap from coil to flywheel with a business card just to be sure its correct.  New plug?


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## Rickb (Mar 18, 2014)

Tried a new plug.  The problem is if you look at the pic, the little kill switch fitting in red is 0 ohms to the metal frame around the coil.  I looked at the wire and it looks fine.


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## Clarkbug (Mar 18, 2014)

Can you pull the wire off the fitting (I think its a spade fitting?) and check it again?


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## Rickb (Mar 18, 2014)

Its not a fitting.  It is wired directly into the coil on the inside.  I can cut it off since its not working anyways.


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## mark cline (Mar 18, 2014)

I just went through this same problem with my 028 WB. Check out this link.
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/stihl/028-ignition-problem/


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## Clarkbug (Mar 18, 2014)

Well, thats a bummer.  You can try and scrounge one of the "universal" stihl coils.  They were put on 029s and the like, and they tend to be cheaper alternatives than the dedicated 028 coils.  I think the number is 000 400 1300.


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## Rickb (Mar 18, 2014)

mark cline said:


> I just went through this same problem with my 028 WB. Check out this link.
> http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/stihl/028-ignition-problem/




That link appears to be about switching out older 028 models from points to electronic.  This saw appears to already be electronic.


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## Rickb (Mar 18, 2014)

Clarkbug said:


> Well, thats a bummer.  You can try and scrounge one of the "universal" stihl coils.  They were put on 029s and the like, and they tend to be cheaper alternatives than the dedicated 028 coils.  I think the number is 000 400 1300.




Yea big bummer.....  I am going to order a new one from northwood.

http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=105


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## mark cline (Mar 18, 2014)

Make sure your flywheel is keyed for the bosch ignition not the SEM ignition in order to use the universal coil.


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## Rickb (Mar 18, 2014)

mark cline said:


> Make sure your flywheel is keyed for the bosch ignition not the SEM ignition in order to use the universal coil.




How can you tell the difference?  My current ignition coil looks like the aftermarket one.


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## mark cline (Mar 19, 2014)

on the inside of the flywheel ,you'll see a key way and a few letters. if the keyway is at the SEM letters the aftermarket coil won't work.( timing will be off ).you would have to change flywheel to the  one with the keyway at the bosch mark. search the forum from the link that i posted for the part #'s


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## Rickb (Mar 19, 2014)

Well hopefully I get luckey.  The coil I pulled off looks exactly like this one including where the wires go.

http://store.chainsawr.com/products/stihl-028-chainsaw-bosch-electronic-coil


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## Clarkbug (Mar 19, 2014)

If you havent already, you might wanna get a carb kit too to toss in there.  Not sure how long it sat with fuel in it.


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## Rickb (Mar 19, 2014)

It actually sat for about a year with no fluids in it.  The carb was rebuilt every year.  I figured I would try it out and see before I rebuild it.


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## Rickb (Mar 22, 2014)

So...  Installed the new ignition today.  I have spark!  YAY!  unfortunately it would not start.  I dribbled a little fuel right intot he carb and it fired right up.  So looks like I will be rebuilding the carb tomorrow if I can get the kit local.


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## HDRock (Mar 22, 2014)

smokedragon said:


> I don't disagree......but if you go buy XYZ brand (homelite, ryobi, etc) with 50 gauge chain, it will be a lower profile (smaller than 3/8) and be loaded with anti-kickback features.  I have never found a 3/8" 63 gauge chain with all the anti-kickback junk.
> 
> Some people like that stuff, but for me, it just slows me down.  I want chain that will throw chips big enough to use for bedding in a gerbil cage.  No matter how sharp you get those anti-kickback chains, they won't do that.


you can buy 3/8,. 050 full chisel,


smokedragon said:


> I don't disagree......but if you go buy XYZ brand (homelite, ryobi, etc) with 50 gauge chain, it will be a lower profile (smaller than 3/8) and be loaded with anti-kickback features.  I have never found a 3/8" 63 gauge chain with all the anti-kickback junk.
> 
> Some people like that stuff, but for me, it just slows me down.  I want chain that will throw chips big enough to use for bedding in a gerbil cage.  No matter how sharp you get those anti-kickback chains, they won't do that.


you are misinformed,. 050 3/8 chain without any anti-kickback features are readily available, that's all I run on my bigger saws,


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## Clarkbug (Mar 22, 2014)

Rickb said:


> So...  Installed the new ignition today.  I have spark!  YAY!  unfortunately it would not start.  I dribbled a little fuel right intot he carb and it fired right up.  So looks like I will be rebuilding the carb tomorrow if I can get the kit local.



Any local small engine shop (or NAPA ) should have the kits.  Walbro is a K10-WAT I think.  Dont remember the number for the Tillotson.  Just a reminder not to blow through the holes with compressed air or carb cleaner.  There are bits that can get damaged from that sorta thing.


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## Rickb (Mar 22, 2014)

Ok rebuilt it today.  took about 5 minutes.  I also sprayed carb cleaner in all the little holes......  Did not read your post till just now. lmao.  Put it back together and no joy.  Wouldnt fire.  So I pulled the air cleaner back off then poured a capfull of gas directly into the saw and it fired right up and continued running this time.  I killed it put it all back together and it fired up fine this time.  I killed it put the chain and bar on fired it up and tuned the H/L and idol.  Went across the street and cut into the downed 24" ash tree and my god!  Cut rounds off it in like 10 seconds.  This thing rocks!  I did have to lean out the H a little bit more but other then that I am super stoked!

I do want to thank everyone here for there help and a special thanks to scott for sending me manuals via email!


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## Clarkbug (Mar 22, 2014)

Glad you like it!  Pretty good for a freebie (even if you did have to spend the $ on the parts).  

Just dont lean it out too much...  There are some great links to tuning a saw on the Madsen's site.  You will also probably have to tweak it again as the rings wear in a little.  Run 93 octane with a good synthetic or semi-synthetic oil and you should be good for lots of wood.


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## Rickb (Mar 22, 2014)

I figure for the $130 in parts, if I can get a couple years out of it, it will have been worth it.  Plus its always fun ripping things apart and seeing how they work.


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## smokedragon (Mar 22, 2014)

HDRock said:


> you can buy 3/8,. 050 full chisel,
> 
> you are misinformed,. 050 3/8 chain without any anti-kickback features are readily available, that's all I run on my bigger saws,




HDRock, I think you are misunderstanding my post.  I am not saying that you can't purchase .050 gauge full chisel.......I am saying that if you buy the typical low grade saw at a home improvement store, it will have a .050 gauge chain that is semi-chisel and made for those who do not operate chainsaws on a regular basis.  If you buy said .050 replacement chain from the same big box store, it will be that same type of chain..........

More of an indictment on the big box stores.  Most places that sell .063 gauge chain, offer more aggressive chain.  Most places that sell .050 gauge chain (at least in my part of the world) are catering to people who run their saws less than once a year, and they only sell the low profile, anti-kickback chains.

I will run any chain if it is full chisel and sharp......


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## HDRock (Mar 24, 2014)

smokedragon said:


> HDRock, I think you are misunderstanding my post.  I am not saying that you can't purchase .050 gauge full chisel.......I am saying that if you buy the typical low grade saw at a home improvement store, it will have a .050 gauge chain that is semi-chisel and made for those who do not operate chainsaws on a regular basis.  If you buy said .050 replacement chain from the same big box store, it will be that same type of chain..........
> 
> More of an indictment on the big box stores.  Most places that sell .063 gauge chain, offer more aggressive chain.  Most places that sell .050 gauge chain (at least in my part of the world) are catering to people who run their saws less than once a year, and they only sell the low profile, anti-kickback chains.
> 
> I will run any chain if it is full chisel and sharp......


Sorry I did misunderstand, your right , all you will get at a big box store, is safety ,low pro ,green box chain.
Guess I was reading to fast


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## smokedragon (Mar 24, 2014)

Which makes Stihl look all that much more awesome to a chainsaw noob


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## kevin j (Mar 27, 2014)

did you change the pulse line and fuel lines?
I would do crank seals also, or at least PV test them.
From the 4 stroke world, I did not understand how touchy and expensive air leaks can be, if not caught anyway.


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## Rickb (Mar 27, 2014)

I did change the lines.  I did nothing to teh crank seals.  Cut a rank of rounds the other day and was very impressed.  I think, this 20" bar is very over sized for it.  That said I will be cutting a tree down at a buddies sunday and will put it through its paces.


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## Clarkbug (Mar 27, 2014)

Rickb said:


> I did change the lines.  I did nothing to teh crank seals.  Cut a rank of rounds the other day and was very impressed.  I think, this 20" bar is very over sized for it.  That said I will be cutting a tree down at a buddies sunday and will put it through its paces.



Just be careful if suddenly you find yourself having to adjust the carb a lot, or it wants to die out when you move to one side or the other.  That indicates a possible seal leak.

20" is a LOT for that saw.  OK maybe in softwood, but really better for reaching if you are limbing or brushcutting.  16" is the sweet spot, 18" works alright as well.


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## Rickb (Mar 27, 2014)

It came with the 20"  I wasn't going to spend money on a new bar and chain before making sure it works well.  The ultimate plan is to get a 036 and clean up/rebuild it and put the 20" bar on it and a 16" bar on the 028. 

As far as the leak I will keep that in mind.  As of now it will cut and I can then sit it down while I fart around and it stays running for as long as it sits there.  I have also not adjusted the carb since the initial adjustment.  I would guess I will need to adjust it after it gets some more run time and the rings really seat well.


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## Clarkbug (Mar 27, 2014)

Yup, you are right.  It will need to be tweaked some.

Is the bar/chain on there 3/8 or .325?  If its .325, you probably dont want that on your 036.  If its 3/8, that is definitely not helping you on that saw.  But I completely agree with not buying something before you knew it would work.


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## Rickb (Mar 27, 2014)

The chain that came with it is: .325 pitch .063 gauge


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## smokedragon (Mar 28, 2014)

Clarkbug said:


> 16" is the sweet spot


I agree.  If you got a brand new 028, it would handle and 18 well, and 20 in good conditions.  I have an 028 AV, and it is nearly 30 years old.  Still runs good, but I'm certain it has less power than when new.

I agree with checking it out first.  Sounds like you have a good plan.

That saw with a 16" is a nice cutting saw.


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## Rickb (Apr 18, 2014)

Sooo....  The 028 was sooo nice compared to what I have used, I found a dirt cheap, in bad shape 036.

It actually runs pretty good but has no power.  I checked compression and yup low compression.  I bought everything to do a full rebuild, but I cant seem to find a service manual in PDF.  

One of you guys on here was good enough to email me a service manual for the 028.  Any chance you have it for the 036 as well?


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## Clarkbug (Apr 18, 2014)

Sounds like you are working on a case of CAD.

This wont end well for your wallet.  Soon you start looking at CL, then yard sales, your neighbors garage, the local dump and salvage yard.  Sure you look for Stihl or Husky, but then it spreads to Homelite and Macs....  Before too long you have a Pioneer and a Remington, and you heard about this guy that had an old Mall or an Alpina....  Beware!

Back on track, if the 036 is in bad shape, you may want to pressure/vac test it also.  You would want to do that before you pull the jug to put in new rings.  (well, and after too wouldnt hurt....)


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## Rickb (Apr 19, 2014)

LOL....  this isnt far from truth.......

The 036 isnt really in bad shape.  Just low compression.


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## Clarkbug (Apr 19, 2014)

And what all did you buy for a "full" rebuild?  I'm guessing new piston and not just rings?


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## Rickb (Apr 19, 2014)

New cyclinder, piston, rings, plugs, lines, gaskets, compression release, carb rebuild kit.


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## Rickb (May 3, 2014)

So..... Bought a compression tester and tested the 036.  It was at 90.  Which definitely isnt good.  I pulled the cylinder and piston and put the new meteor piston, rings, and cylinder on with a new gasket.  I also got a new compression release.  Tested out compression with the new stuff and got 150......  I think once the rings seal it should bump up a little more as well so im happy.  Got it fired up and runs great!  The chain on it is shot.  So need to get a new bar and chain for it then do some more tuning but this saw is pretty strong.


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## Clarkbug (May 3, 2014)

Thats awesome!  Glad to hear that it made such a big difference for you.  Run it like you stole it to break it in, and that should help the rings seat.  I know you had talked about trying to swap the longer bar off the 028, but I would just go get a new setup thats 3/8 and let her eat.


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## Rickb (May 4, 2014)

yea I will be on the look out for a 20" bar that is 3/8, .50 for this.  

I think I will just leave the 20" bar on the 028 for now.  It actually is kinda nice for limbing.


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## Rickb (May 4, 2014)

Ok so cut about a cord of wood today.  I was using the 036 for a while and it was cutting pretty good and was pretty strong considering the chain is trashed on it.  Then grabbed the 028 and OMG!!  I can't believe how much more power the 036 had.  Its been 3 weeks or so since I used the 028 so I was thinking they were pretty close to each other power wise but once I used them side by side it was night and day difference.  Cant wait to get a good chain for this thing next week.


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