# what octane gas do you use in your snow blower



## fishinpa (Feb 1, 2011)

For some reason, there is no option when I log into the 'Ash Can' for me to create a new post, so I thought I would do it here. (I have 130+ posts, so it is not a 'new guy' issue)

I was wondering what octane you use in your 4 cycle 'winter' stuff. I have been told to use no less than 89, + jasco rated 2 cycle oil (I choose Echo oil) in my 2 cycle stuff from my best fried the tree guy and heed this. I run 89 + jasco+ sta-bilt in every drop pumped, year 'round. (Trimmers, hedge clippers, tiller, etc) I fire everything up once every 1 to 1.5 months or so in the off season and never have a problem with any of it year after year, after year.

I was wondering what ya'll use in specifically, your 4-cycle snow blowers. I have been running 87 in my 8.5hp, 24" snow unit (Tecumseh) and wonder if there's an advantage or if the opinion is that damage could be caused using 90+ in it. The manual for all my 4-cycle stuff says 87.

Just wondering what the consensus is? Look forward to hearing your opinions...


----------



## wendell (Feb 1, 2011)

No damage, just wasting money if your engine can't take advantage of the extra octane.


----------



## LLigetfa (Feb 1, 2011)

wendell said:
			
		

> No damage, just wasting money if your engine can't take advantage of the extra octane.


+1

I use 87 octane in all my 4 cycle OPE.


----------



## Dingeryote (Feb 1, 2011)

Plain old 89 goes into everything here. 

Not so much for the higher octane rating, but for the better detergent package put in the Mid-grade.


----------



## Spikem (Feb 1, 2011)

For a snow blower?  It's the cheap stuff (with fuel stabilizer added in).

For the chain saw?  It's the high-octane stuff.


----------



## peakbagger (Feb 1, 2011)

Pure speculation is that the enthanol added to gas is for octane enhancement, therefore higher octane equals higher ethanol content ??. If that is true, low octane would be better as it will have less ethanol issues?


----------



## gpcollen1 (Feb 1, 2011)

Ethanol is not for Octane enhancement.

I buy the good stuff for my gas can.  The can really likes it, says it keeps her warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.  I guess that means that my OPE has to deal with the higher octane.  My car gets the 87...


----------



## nate379 (Feb 1, 2011)

Whatever the cheap stuff is.  WRX gets high test though, but high comp. turbo'd motor


----------



## smokinj (Feb 1, 2011)

Ran 93 through the splitter this week its a hi pro honda..Sounded better but could just be the stright locust we where running.


----------



## pyper (Feb 1, 2011)

Higher Octane = harder to burn. That's the whole point of higher octane gas. You use it in high compression engines so they won't knock (gas explodes prior to spark).

The guys I bought my chainsaw from suggested that I should use non-ethanol gas.


----------



## CTYank (Feb 1, 2011)

fishinpa said:
			
		

> For some reason, there is no option when I log into the 'Ash Can' for me to create a new post, so I thought I would do it here. (I have 130+ posts, so it is not a 'new guy' issue)
> 
> I was wondering what octane you use in your 4 cycle 'winter' stuff. I have been told to use no less than 89, + jasco rated 2 cycle oil (I choose Echo oil) in my 2 cycle stuff from my best fried the tree guy and heed this. I run 89 + jasco+ sta-bilt in every drop pumped, year 'round. (Trimmers, hedge clippers, tiller, etc) I fire everything up once every 1 to 1.5 months or so in the off season and never have a problem with any of it year after year, after year.
> 
> ...



Unleaded regular (nominally 87 octane) in all OPE with 50:1 name-brand oil for the 2-strokes only. Beyond that is waste and/or counter-productive.
Mobil 1 in crankcases of the 4-strokes. No changes/additions have been needed for years. Hand-cranking almost easy in winter. Much more concerned about getting the road-salt off the snow-blower.


----------



## btuser (Feb 1, 2011)

I used to use the good stuff untill I got a company gas card.  (shhhhhhh!)


----------



## Dingeryote (Feb 1, 2011)

CTYank said:
			
		

> fishinpa said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



CTYank,

Little trick that might help with the nasty road salts.
Cheapo Wal-Mart brand WD-40 equivalent, spritzed all over whatever you wish to protect ,does a pretty good job, then rinses off with plain old soap and water.
Learned it from another Fruit grower, that never has problems with organophosphates eating the fenders of his spray tractor. Seems to help inside the fenders of the truck and cars as well.

Agreed on running synthetic in the OPE. It's cheap insurance and makes cold weather starts easy.
Partsmaster brand full synthetic oil is Re-Badged Valvoline, and costs about the same as Dino or cheaper in some cases.


----------



## avc8130 (Feb 1, 2011)

I use premium in everything fed by a red can.  It is just easier.  I also treat everything that goes in the red can with stabilizer.  Now I don't have to worry.  The same red can will fill the splitter, mower, dirt bike, can get mixed for the saw or trimmer or can go in any of the 2 premium running cars.  I can't be hassled with multiple fuel types.  I also stabilize everything in the can.  That way, if it goes in the mower or the splitter and stops being used for a month or 2 it isn't an issue.
ac


----------



## Danno77 (Feb 1, 2011)

I've been buying all the fuel for small engines at HyVee cause they got non-ethanol blend. but it's 87 octane. At this point i'm adding Marvel mystery oil, some sta-bil, and then the Heet stuff that's safe for all engines (without looking don't remember if that's red or yellow). I don't know if I'll keep using this concoction or not. seems to be working ok.


----------



## Beardog (Feb 1, 2011)

87 in 4 cycle, 93 or 94 in 2 stroke


----------



## mayhem (Feb 2, 2011)

Only thing that doesn't get regular 87 is the wife's Audi...per manufacturer recommendations it gets premium.


----------



## Danno77 (Feb 2, 2011)

Danno77 said:
			
		

> I've been buying all the fuel for small engines at HyVee cause they got non-ethanol blend. but it's 87 octane. At this point i'm adding Marvel mystery oil, some sta-bil, and then the Heet stuff that's safe for all engines (without looking don't remember if that's red or yellow). I don't know if I'll keep using this concoction or not. seems to be working ok.


oops, forgot the seafoam. I ALWAYS use seafoam. ALWAYS. that part of the concoction won't change.


----------



## bboulier (Feb 3, 2011)

I have been using 87 octane, but recently heard that higher octanes have less ethanol (which sounds plausible) and are recommended for lawn mowers and I assume chainsaws.  Can anyone confirm this? 

I have had the plastic lines in my chainsaw replaced to accommodate ethanol fuel.


----------



## billb3 (Feb 3, 2011)

I was told by several Stihl mechanics not to run premium in my saw as it would run too hot.
Maybe just MY stihl (026pro). 
I use regular in everything and we have the  up to 10% ethanol.
If it sits more than a year it starts turning a funny yellow color. 
I've been using seafoam, too. Not every tank , but certainly the lawn mower  gets a tablespoon or so to fresh gas the first few tankfuls in the Spring.
I never used to do anything special with any engines that didn't sit for more than a season, but now with this ethanol mix I'm changing my ways.
The push mowers got a little stabil last Fall. 

( A Honda rider sat for two years and the carb gas turned to jello, I'm guessing that was the ethanol. Cleaned out OK, just would prefer not to have to clean out a carb )


----------



## soupy1957 (Feb 14, 2011)

87 octane is all you need.

-Soupy1957


----------

