# Montgomery ward wood stove 74AS7302A



## David61 (Oct 5, 2014)

How do I know how old this model is. Also need a good vendor for a few replacement pieces.


----------



## BrotherBart (Oct 5, 2014)

Best bet is that it is the US Stove version of a Franklin fireplace stove that Ward sold a bazillion of during the fuel crunch in the mid seventies. I had one. Craigslist is the best source of parts. People sell them there all the time.


----------



## BrotherBart (Oct 5, 2014)

Does it look like this?


----------



## David61 (Oct 6, 2014)

BrotherBart said:


> Does it look like this?


No, I'm traveling now for a week with no pictures yet . Single burner, pig shape, top slides to the left. Six windows in the front door, 28 embossed behind the chimney, probably 30 inches tall. I need the screen and plastic sheet for the windows.


----------



## fossil (Oct 6, 2014)

It's not plastic, it's mica.


----------



## David61 (Oct 6, 2014)

fossil said:


> It's not plastic, it's mica.


Thanks for the lesson.


----------



## fossil (Oct 6, 2014)

If you're thinking of decoration, you can put whatever in there.  If your plan is to burn in it, you'll need to use mica sheets.  They are available.


----------



## David61 (Oct 6, 2014)

No decorating, I want to use it in a pole barn with a sealed concrete floor. When I look for parts, there are no listings for MW 74AS7302A.


----------



## fossil (Oct 6, 2014)

Yeah, I don't know anything about your stove, but helped my cousin restore a different old stove that had the mica windows.  He was able to buy some sheets from an eBay vendor and trim them to fit.  I've heard of other folks actually retrofitting modern pyroceram into old stoves, but that's much more expensive, as each pane must be custom cut by a commercial supplier, then the stove has to be modified to accommodate them.  I'd definitely find some mica if I were doing it.  The screens should be easy enough to make from a fine mesh stainless steel hardware cloth.  Rick


----------



## David61 (Oct 6, 2014)

fossil said:


> Yeah, I don't know anything about your stove, but helped my cousin restore a different old stove that had the mica windows.  He was able to buy some sheets from an eBay vendor and trim them to fit.  I've heard of other folks actually retrofitting modern pyroceram into old stoves, but that's much more expensive, as each pane must be custom cut by a commercial supplier, then the stove has to be modified to accommodate them.  I'd definitely find some mica if I were doing it.  The screens should be easy enough to make from a fine mesh stainless steel hardware cloth.  Rick


Thanks for your help Rick. One more please, I'm hearing pig stove when asking the locals. How is a stove size determined? Front to back of the inside of the box or top to bottom of the interior?


----------



## fossil (Oct 6, 2014)

Never heard the term "pig stove".  The only stove size we typically talk about around here is the interior volume of the firebox, in cubic feet.  We frequently discuss exterior dimensions, of course, when it comes to installation details and clearances to combustibles, but as far as the opening of a stove discussion goes, we're talking like, "Oh yeah, that's a 1.4 ft³ stove, right?" or words to that effect.  I'd love to see a pic of your stove so I understand what we're talking about.  Rick

The only thing that pops into my mind with the term "pig stove" is something like the Vogelzang Boxwood, because of its shape, but I don't think that's what you're talking about.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...i_sku=173896&gclid=CMOelYimmcECFQZrfgodDrYAqg


----------



## EatenByLimestone (Oct 6, 2014)

I haven't heard of a pig stove either, but used to run a pot belly stove with mica in the door.  There are pot bellied pigs so... Maybe?


----------



## BrotherBart (Oct 6, 2014)

Yeah this is the only pig stove I know of.


----------



## David61 (Oct 6, 2014)

Alright Men, check this out. Hope it works, poor signal in this Holiday Inn.


----------



## fossil (Oct 6, 2014)

Do it again with the phone turned 90°


----------



## David61 (Oct 6, 2014)

My plan is to install it in this 1200 sq ft barn. Six ft of stove pipe up then elbow right for eight ft then elbow left for four feet of  pipe equally centered through wall then elbow up to cap. I want to use the heat before I lose it.


----------



## fossil (Oct 6, 2014)

How in the world would you ever clean (sweep) a run of stovepipe like that?  And with a stove like this, you're going to want to pay a lot of attention to keeping that pipe clean inside, because it's going to be a dirty burner..  The more heat you think you're trying to retain in the living space is heat you're robbing from the flue gas stream...all this does is cool the gases down to the point where creosote is condensing out all over the inside of the flue.  I'd seriously re-think this piping plan.  Rick


----------



## David61 (Oct 6, 2014)

Glad I ran it passed you. I want some heat off the pipe and still go through the wall in stead of the roof. Thanks.


----------



## fossil (Oct 6, 2014)

The bulk of the heat this thing is going to provide is going to be from radiation and natural convection from the appliance itself, not the flue pipe. Straight up through the roof is cheaper, more efficient, and easier to keep clean. The single-wall stove pipe you can run from the flue collar to the ceiling support box will give off some (minimal) additional heat. As soon as you penetrate the structure (either straight up or out and up), you must use Class A chimney components (including whatever you choose for penetrating the ceiling/roof, or wall), which are a good deal more expensive than single-wall stove pipe. Ideally ($$$-wise), you'd route the flue to minimize the Class A requirements, and that almost invariably means straight up is your best bang for the buck. Whatever heat you might think you're gaining by having lots of stovepipe wandering around inside will be more than offset by the cost of a lot of Class A chimney to go up outside the wall and the nightmare of trying to keep that thing clean and safe to operate.  Rick


----------



## David61 (Oct 6, 2014)

fossil said:


> The bulk of the heat this thing is going to provide is going to be from radiation and natural convection from the appliance itself, not the flue pipe. Straight up through the roof is cheaper, more efficient, and easier to keep clean. The single-wall stove pipe you can run from the flue collar to the ceiling support box will give off some (minimal) additional heat. As soon as you penetrate the structure (either straight up or out and up), you must use Class A chimney components (including whatever you choose for penetrating the ceiling/roof, or wall), which are a good deal more expensive than single-wall stove pipe. Ideally ($$$-wise), you'd route the flue to minimize the Class A requirements, and that almost invariably means straight up is your best bang for the buck. Whatever heat you might think you're gaining by having lots of stovepipe wandering around inside will be more than offset by the cost of a lot of Class A chimney to go up outside the wall and the nightmare of trying to keep that thing clean and safe to operate.  Rick


Understood, you know your smoke. Thanks again RIck.


----------

