# I think it's time for me to start stacking in single rows



## muncybob (Oct 22, 2013)

I've been stacking my split wood on pallets and for the most part they have interlocked on pallets that are about 3'X4" or 4'X10'. Started to load my truck up with walnut that had a stack date of 2/12. The splits seemed a little heavy to me so I took one of the interior splits, split it smaller and got a MM reading of 26%. Stopped loading the truck and went to my ash stack that was marked 4/12. Took a few readings and while many were around 20% quite a few of them were mid 20's+! Man, was I disappointed! Fortunatley the oak that was 3+ years was good to go! So, I guess I'll be mixing in the oak with what I have for this year and will be going with single row stacking from now on.


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## pen (Oct 22, 2013)

Been there, done that.  The stuff needs air! 

Were these top covered or not?


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## NH_Wood (Oct 22, 2013)

I only stack on pallets in cubes about 40"X48" and 5' tall. I top cover with rubber roofing. All wood sits for four years and the only problem I've had is some oak sapwood going to punk because the roofing sagged and rain runoff was concentrated in one spot - only losing a few splits though. So....you're splits were about 18 months in the stack or so? I think that stacked wood in the northeast seems to need more time to be perfect (depending on species) - my oak is a definite three year wood, and even red maple, cherry and white birch seem better after a full two years. But, if you have the room to single row, that's great! Cheers!


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## flatlandr (Oct 22, 2013)

I'm having a similar problem with 2 cord of walnut that was cut and split in Dec 2011. However I have walnut that was cut/split in Sept. 2012 that reads 18-20%. 
Stacked in single rows separated approx. 1' apart.


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## muncybob (Oct 23, 2013)

pen said:


> Been there, done that.  The stuff needs air!
> 
> Were these top covered or not?


 
Only top covered in the last month or so. The Mrs asked what I may get up to this evening(if it's not raining), so I invited her to a re-stacking party...not sure if she will attend though.


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## Paulywalnut (Oct 23, 2013)

I leave a 18" gap between rows. Just enough for me to squeeze in between if I need to. The wind blows through
the stacks very nicely. It takes up a little more real estate but it's well worth it .


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## Stegman (Oct 23, 2013)

Paulywalnut said:


> I leave a 18" gap between rows. Just enough for me to squeeze in between if I need to. The wind blows through
> the stacks very nicely. It takes up a little more real estate but it's well worth it .



+1. I haven't had any problems stacking on pallets, but I lay my pallets down in a row and then have two rows running along their length with a gap in between. Not sure if that's how you're doing it or not. I know from experience that butting rows up tight against one another doesn't cut the mustard.


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## PSYS (Oct 23, 2013)

I think I've read far too many positive things about single-stacking on the forum now to ever want to double-stack the wood I'm seasoning.   
Awesome info, as always!


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## TreePointer (Oct 23, 2013)

I also put only two rows on pallets leaving space between them.

If you have the space, single rows can be very effective.  This gets sun on both sides and wind blows from west to east through the wood.   It has better air flow underneath, too.


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## jeffesonm (Oct 23, 2013)

Well that's discouraging... I'm in the process of switching from single row stacks to pallet cubes so I can move them around with the front end loader.


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## TreePointer (Oct 23, 2013)

Just to be clear, I still like pallets.  As mentioned earlier, I think it just depends on your climate how much time you have to let it season.


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## bogydave (Oct 23, 2013)

I'm trying  a new technique,  2 rows on pallets, with a space between them.
New is;  I lean the stacks  slightly together to where the meet at the top.
Then a row of bark up birch down the seam.
Hoping to keep some rain & snow out of the center.
Last year the space was packed full of snow.


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## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Oct 23, 2013)

Single stack it in the sun and wind for best results.....
	

		
			
		

		
	



And make small splits.....


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## gyrfalcon (Oct 23, 2013)

PSYS said:


> I think I've read far too many positive things about single-stacking on the forum now to ever want to double-stack the wood I'm seasoning.
> Awesome info, as always!


If you have the room and can make stable single-row stacks that don't fall over and require restacking periodically, it's absolutely the way to go.   If the stacks are out in the sun and wind and your climate isn't too humid, it doesn't take more than a year for good dry firewood, and smaller splits of most species are ready to go in the fall if they were stacked in spring.  Another year is better, but half a year in those conditions is OK if necessary.


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## My Oslo heats my home (Oct 23, 2013)

pen said:


> Been there, done that.  The stuff needs air!
> 
> Were these top covered or not?



Funny, I just posted on a thread about the stuff someone learned this year. This is one of those things I learned in yr one. I now have 9 racks in the backyard, they are 12" off the ground and are about 16" apart. I get a good prevailing wind that goes through regularly and an extra hour of sunshine in the summer months. It works!


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## Backwoods Savage (Oct 23, 2013)

Bob, I think where you went wrong was to not top cover them soon enough. Actually in your area it would not do any harm to top cover that wood as soon as you get it stacked. Give that a try and see if it may work better for you.




I'm not convinced yet and have stacked wood this way all my life. Well, most times in 3 rows together but have stacked with over 20 rows together. Never have had a problem with wood not drying. Many claim with the 3 rows that we typically use for stacking that the center row won't dry. That may be true but I've found it interesting that the wood piles shrink down at the same rate. It would seem if that center row did not dry that it would end up higher. That has never happened. 

Here are a few examples and for added emphasis, in the first three pictures, those were stacked right on the ground. Nothing under them except good ole Mother Earth. Naturally the bottom row and mostly the bottom 2 or 3 rows would be frozen in when we got down to them. No problem. Wait for spring, throw those on top of the new piles and they would be fine the following year.


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## red oak (Oct 23, 2013)

There is not a doubt in my mind that single-stacking will get the wood to season faster.  

There is also not a doubt in my mind that if you give the wood several years stacked together it will dry.  I have 10 rows, stacked together, off the ground, that has been seasoning for 2-3 years.  Seems to dry fine to me.


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## Paulywalnut (Oct 23, 2013)

If you have plenty of wood, your stacks that are stacked tight in rows of three or so will surely season in 3 years.
Guys that are trying to speed things up some so they can catch up will probably do it quicker in single stacks with 
a space in between.  No scientific evidence though.


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## granpajohn (Oct 23, 2013)

Backwoods Savage said:


> .... That may be true but I've found it interesting that the wood piles shrink down at the same rate. It would seem if that center row did not dry that it would end up higher. That has never happened.


Hmmm...the scientist has a good point there.


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## bag of hammers (Oct 23, 2013)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Bob, I think where you went wrong was to not top cover them soon enough. Actually in your area it would not do any harm to top cover that wood as soon as you get it stacked. Give that a try and see if it may work better for you
> 
> I'm not convinced yet and have stacked wood this way all my life



I don't process as much as most here, but what I have sits on pallets, typically 2 together, for  approx 4 x 9 supporting 3 rows.  This gives me over a full cord stacked on each pair of pallets - sugar maple and yellow birch mostly.  So far it seems to work well. But a top cover with something solid (so there's no sag under wet leaves and snow) is required.


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## BrotherBart (Oct 23, 2013)

Stoves, wood and stacking methods. Not any one of any of them works best for everybody. This wood burning thing is a learning thing no matter how long ya do it. Believe me. 30 years and learning...

But the biggest shot in the learning curve was stumbling across you folks here in 2005.


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## Backwoods Savage (Oct 24, 2013)

granpajohn said:


> Hmmm...the scientist has a good point there.



Not sure if that was meant to be nice or nasty...


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## My Oslo heats my home (Oct 24, 2013)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Not sure if that was meant to be nice or nasty...


I think that was meant for good...


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## granpajohn (Oct 24, 2013)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Not sure if that was meant to be nice or nasty...


..chortle, guffaw...  You know I don't make nasty posts. (I suppose there's plenty enough without me adding in.)


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## muncybob (Oct 25, 2013)

So I started to restack my 1.5 yr hickory last night. I was amazed at the amount of bug/beetle dust/dirt(don't know what exactly it's called) on the bark side of many splits. I noticed this also on my 3 yr oak last month but the hickory has LOTS more of it to the point that I was brushing it off as it appeaed to be so thick in some areas that it was holding moisture. It seems the stacks that are closer to my trees have more of this stuff?


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## Applesister (Oct 25, 2013)

muncybob said:


> So I started to restack my 1.5 yr hickory last night. I was amazed at the amount of bug/beetle dust/dirt(don't know what exactly it's called) on the bark side of many splits. I noticed this also on my 3 yr oak last month but the hickory has LOTS more of it to the point that I was brushing it off as it appeaed to be so thick in some areas that it was holding moisture. It seems the stacks that are closer to my trees have more of this stuff?


Hickory must be tasty, the species suffers its good taste. It smells so good so...
This is an interesting thread. I was talking to a woman over the weekend who told me she was from Alaska. Near Washington south and she said they got 140"of rain this last season. She said everything turns to mush there. She was telling me about the totem poles that just fall over and rot. And all the trees are covered in moss.
Success in drying is a location thing partly.
I did the pallets this year with three 16" rows to a pallet. I like the measuring part. Two pallets = full cord. But I am concerned about the drying time as well.
This year was a wet one here in NY.
I may restack.


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## etiger2007 (Oct 25, 2013)

Walnut must be a moister sponge , I have some three years split that still sizzles


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## Backwoods Savage (Oct 25, 2013)

muncybob said:


> So I started to restack my 1.5 yr hickory last night. I was amazed at the amount of bug/beetle dust/dirt(don't know what exactly it's called) on the bark side of many splits. I noticed this also on my 3 yr oak last month but the hickory has LOTS more of it to the point that I was brushing it off as it appeaed to be so thick in some areas that it was holding moisture. It seems the stacks that are closer to my trees have more of this stuff?



Bob, that sounds like powder post beetles.


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## etiger2007 (Oct 25, 2013)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Bob, that sounds like powder post beetles.
> 
> View attachment 115731
> View attachment 115732
> View attachment 115733


I ran across that in my stacks this fall


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## bag of hammers (Oct 25, 2013)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Bob, that sounds like powder post beetles.]



Are they partial to hickory?


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## Charles1981 (Oct 25, 2013)

On a side note, I do a perimeter spray of my wood piles and spray under the stack once a year with a product called "termidor" its the same stuff people put on their cats and dogs to keep flea and tick off (fipronil aka frontline). I also do perimeter spray of my house and baseboard once a year as well. There are almost zero bugs in my wood pile or house.

Some people are very anti pesticide however but I love this product and it kills just about all insects (termits, ants, fleas, ticks, ect). Not sure if any research has been done into beetles, but the only pests I find in my piles are chipmunks and mice. Most often at least a few splits in my loads I have ordered have termites in them and I know if they are CSS that its unlikely they will colonize else where away from their main base, but I still spray my wood piles once yearly.


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## muncybob (Oct 26, 2013)

Yep, I figured by all the holes I saw that they were beetles. I had the same in my oak pile but not to this extent. This is the most I've seen yet. Hickory must be good tasting stuff, I know I like to smoke my burgers with it.


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## Backwoods Savage (Oct 27, 2013)

bag of hammers said:


> Are they partial to hickory?



I wouldn't say they are partial to hickory but they do tend to like it a lot.


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## bag of hammers (Oct 28, 2013)

On Sunday I was cleaning up a couple of small widow-makers that I cut up a few weeks ago, not enough to load up on a pallet (I have several), but wanted to get it off the ground quickly and out of the way.  So I thought I'd throw together one of those quick and dirty racks that have been mentioned here a couple times before.  I had some CMU blocks and a few old 2x4's in the yard so I loaded one up.  

http://www.instructables.com/id/No-tools-firewood-rack/

Surprisingly solid once the splits are in there.  I'm still a fan of pallets, but if you have a small amount of firewood that you just need to stack quickly, without committing time or $ to something more permanent, this is not such a bad idea.


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## basswidow (Oct 28, 2013)

I always stacked 2 rows per pallet and put uglies in the middle (4ft wide).  Or sometimes 3 rows of 16 inches each.   Never had any problems.  Of course my location had full sun and wind.  Walnut is a heavy wood even when seasoned.  Maybe it's more like oak drying times.  A good reason to have plenty of wood on hand.


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## oldspark (Oct 28, 2013)

My Walnut that was cut green a little over 2 years ago is below 20% and burning fine.


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## oldspark (Oct 28, 2013)

"I'm not convinced yet and have stacked wood this way all my life. Well, most times in 3 rows together but have stacked with over 20 rows together. Never have had a problem with wood not drying. Many claim with the 3 rows that we typically use for stacking that the center row won't dry. That may be true but I've found it interesting that the wood piles shrink down at the same rate. It would seem if that center row did not dry that it would end up higher. That has never happened"

My guess would be because the outside rows only have one end exposed all three rows are drying a little slower so shrinkage is the same, you cant get all the benefits of wind when you block it, sure it still does its thing but not getting the full effect.
Maybe that's why BWS tells us to dry our wood for three years (bless his heart).


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## Bster13 (Oct 28, 2013)

From reading on the board and a study someone posted from a researcher, I'm convinced drying occurs mostly from temperature , not wind.  WInd can't hurt, but all out temperature makes the most difference.  I follow the "two stacks leaning into each other" practice as my single rows tend to shift too much as they dry and fall over.


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## bag of hammers (Oct 28, 2013)

basswidow said:


> I always stacked 2 rows per pallet and put uglies in the middle (4ft wide)


another good alternative.  my yellow birch yields lots of uglies...


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## oldspark (Oct 28, 2013)

Bster13 said:


> From reading on the board and a study someone posted from a researcher, I'm convinced drying occurs mostly from temperature , not wind.  WInd can't hurt, but all out temperature makes the most difference.  I follow the "two stacks leaning into each other" practice as my single rows tend to shift too much as they dry and fall over.


 
I have read so many articles on drying wood (firewood and lumber both) and believe me wind is very important, I could post many different articles on the drying of wood and they will all talk about temperature and air movement, the higher temperature brings the moisture to the surface and the wind takes it away.


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## NH_Wood (Oct 28, 2013)

oldspark said:


> I have read so many articles on drying wood (firewood and lumber both) and believe me wind is very important, I could post many different articles on the drying of wood and they will all talk about temperature and air movement, the higher temperature brings the moisture to the surface and the wind takes it away.



Exactly - wind removes the moisture from the area surrounding the stack and then allows additional water loss to occur. On a calm humid day, you sweat and the sweat doesn't evaporate quickly - add wind and the sweat evaporates more quickly, the moisture is carried away from your body, and you can then produce more sweat - same deal with drying wood. Wind is a key component to drying wood. Cheers!


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## Backwoods Savage (Oct 28, 2013)

Bster13 said:


> From reading on the board and a study someone posted from a researcher, I'm convinced drying occurs mostly from temperature , not wind.  WInd can't hurt, but all out temperature makes the most difference.  I follow the "two stacks leaning into each other" practice as my single rows tend to shift too much as they dry and fall over.



Don't believe all researchers. Some thing that tag means they are always correct. Not so!  Temperature can't hurt and that can go for low temperatures too. Case in point is in Alaska, the Yukon and areas like that. Air circulation is still the biggest key.


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## MrWhoopee (Oct 28, 2013)

muncybob said:


> So I started to restack my 1.5 yr hickory last night. I was amazed at the amount of bug/beetle dust/dirt(don't know what exactly it's called)


 
Frass

*Definition of FRASS*
*:* debris or excrement produced by insects
*Origin of FRASS*
German, insect damage, literally, eating away, from Old High German _vrāz_ food, from _frezzan_ to devour — more at fret
First Known Use: 1854


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## JrCRXHF (Oct 29, 2013)

I wish i could do single rows but with living in the city there is not room for that. Plus the area i have to put wood has pine trees above it and a fence on the back side so i have found covering it with a dark colored tarp after the first winter is about the best i can do. I put them on pallets 2 rows wide and try to put a air gap down the middle.


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## bag of hammers (Oct 29, 2013)

JrCRXHF said:


> covering it with a dark colored tarp after the first winter is about the best i can do



That works for me but I also throw down some scraps of plywood or similar on the top of the stacks then tarp over that - keeps the rain / snow / heavy wet leaves out and also stops pretty much any puddling on the tarp (otherwise tarp smothers the top layer and some pieces get punky - I lost some splits that way in previous years).


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## Hills Hoard (Oct 29, 2013)

bogydave said:


> View attachment 115479
> 
> 
> 
> ...



my stack for next year has developed a lean inward similar to what you describe...it wasnt intentional though...haha.


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## bogydave (Oct 29, 2013)

Hills Hoard said:


> my stack for next year has developed a lean inward similar to what you describe...it wasnt intentional though...haha.



Mine may fall over 
Hope all the fires missed your area.


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## Hills Hoard (Oct 30, 2013)

bogydave said:


> Mine may fall over
> Hope all the fires missed your area.



they did thanks.  they were further north thane had  i am.   i think we are bracing for a bad fire season in my area though.  we have had a lot of rain and there is a lot of thick undergrowth.


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## arro222 (Oct 30, 2013)

I've attempted a bunch of ways. When I 3 stacked and waiting 2 years, the middle row was hardly dry. I now one row for 2 years and still come up against not fully seasoned. I use mostly red oak. The wood is covered at the top and the cover goes on in August. I think red oak needs 3 yrs of seasoning for best results. I'd take a moisture reading on the outside and be as low as 12-14%. I'd then resplit the split and read 22-25%. That old adage about wood drying an inch o year may be true. I think heat, humidity and air current all have their contributions to make. For some reason I've gotten away from covering my wood with 6 mil plastic sheeting but always had great success when using this stuff while draping it almost to the bottom of the wood stack which is something we're told not to cover wood as such. Ah baloney. I like what Brother Bart said. Its just a long learning curve dependent on so many variables such as stove type, wood type, split type and burn type that its tough to come up with an overall edict. But some just want to be big shot know it alls and either come up with edicts for all or worse, parrot information from the big shot know it alls because they must be right. The devil is in the details and the devil takes many forms.


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## bag of hammers (Oct 30, 2013)

arro222 said:


> I like what Brother Bart said. Its just a long learning curve dependent on so many variables such as stove type, wood type, split type and burn type that its tough to come up with an overall edict. But some just want to be big shot know it alls and either come up with edicts for all or worse, parrot information from the big shot know it alls because they must be right.



I agree in principle (with you and BB) - "YMMV" is pretty much implied / assumed, but reading this forum for a few years now, and so far I've never got the impression that there were very many folks trying to be big shots.  I'm pretty sure that comment was not intended to be condescending, but it kinda reads that way...?  Just my 2c....


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## oldspark (Oct 30, 2013)

Big shot know it alls huh, nice, most of the posts about drying wood (or what ever) are ment to be helpful, we may disagree on some points but drying wood is a straight forward process no matter how much we try to make it something different.
The varibles keep the subject interesting, some of us have burnt wood a long time and try offering advice to the newbies which there are alot and when a newbie comes on here and posts something that is totaly backasswords then maybe he is the know it all you speak off.


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## arro222 (Oct 30, 2013)

bag of hammers said:


> I agree in principle (with you and BB) - "YMMV" is pretty much implied / assumed, but reading this forum for a few years now, and so far I've never got the impression that there were very many folks trying to be big shots.  I'm pretty sure that comment was not intended to be condescending, but it kinda reads that way...?  Just my 2c....



I'm not referring to anyone on this forum as far as this subject is concerned, I'm refering to all the information out there that is published else where saying you should do this and that when in fact, all the variables are not spoken of but that does not disuade people from publishing and wanting their name in the copy headliner. I'm not interested in egos as much as I am first hand experience. There are articles I like and some that I do not. Those that state "you should" as opposed "I have found " giving room for the experience instead of the parrot is what I'm referring to and no, I was  being condescending but  to this type of article.


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## bag of hammers (Oct 30, 2013)

arro222 said:


> I'm not referring to anyone on this forum as far as this subject is concerned, I'm refering to all the information out there that is published else where saying you should do this and that when in fact, all the variables are not spoken of but that does not disuade people from publishing and wanting their name in the copy headliner. I'm not interested in egos as much as I am first hand experience. There are articles I like and some that I do not. Those that state "you should" as opposed "I have found " giving room for the experience instead of the parrot is what I'm referring to.



thanks arro222 - I was not trying to rattle your cage, just a heads-up that the original comment might not be interpreted the way it was intended.  The topics / posts / opinions here are sometimes all over the place - but at the end of the day, as you say, the devil is in the details   .   That's what makes it great.


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## arro222 (Oct 30, 2013)

bag of hammers said:


> thanks arro222 - I was not trying to rattle your cage, just a heads-up that the original comment might not be interpreted the way it was intended.  The topics / posts / opinions here are sometimes all over the place - but at the end of the day, as you say, the devil is in the details   .   That's what makes it great.



Was never rattled Bags. You had an opinion and expressed it. (and let me add as a perfect gentleman) What's wrong with that? I tend to be direct and as honest as possible and is why admitted to be condescending.


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## oldspark (Oct 30, 2013)

Many of the articles you speak of are in fact "parrot" articles so if one has bad info you may find several with the same type of info, easy to sort through the BS when you have first hand expeirence like you stated arro222.


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## Gunny (Oct 30, 2013)

Not speaking for anyone but I will say to be careful.  A "newbie" quite possibly could be someone who has been cutting, burning, or processing wood for 20-30 yrs.  I DO know someone who is classified as a "newbie" who at one point in his career was a professional Oregon Timber-feller for years who just found this forum.  Not me, honest.  Be careful what you read under someone's pet name as far as their profile is concerned.  I'm sure a lot are not "newbies"  by far!  Just saying!


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## arro222 (Oct 30, 2013)

Gunny said:


> Not speaking for anyone but I will say to be careful.  A "newbie" quite possibly could be someone who has been cutting, burning, or processing wood for 20-30 yrs.  I DO know someone who is classified as a "newbie" who at one point in his career was a professional Oregon Timber-feller for years who just found this forum.  Not me, honest.  Be careful what you read under someone's pet name as far as their profile is concerned.  I'm sure a lot are not "newbies"  by far!  Just saying!


You are correct aout being careful Gunny but there is another side to this. I was a logger for 30 years and have been burning wood since 1978. Yet I cannot say I can speak with authority on anything to this regard because all I have is my experience to go by. If my experience has holes or gaps in it and I go on as a "know it all" about such, then I'm not being honest or forth right. I've learned a long time ago that ego can get in the way of learning no matter how long someone has been doing something.


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## bag of hammers (Oct 30, 2013)

Gunny said:


> Not speaking for anyone but I will say to be careful.  A "newbie" quite possibly could be someone who has been cutting, burning, or processing wood for 20-30 yrs.  I DO know someone who is classified as a "newbie" who at one point in his career was a professional Oregon Timber-feller for years who just found this forum.  Not me, honest.  Be careful what you read under someone's pet name as far as their profile is concerned.  I'm sure a lot are not "newbies"  by far!  Just saying!



Good advice.  To add to that - someone could be a newbie in one respect, yet well seasoned in another (e.g. I burned a smoke dragon for over 10 years, tube stove for @ 4, did a few installs, etc. - but I never laid my hands on a cat stove or an insert).  I think I could be around here forever, but still learning (a lot) as I go.  



arro222 said:


> I've learned a long time ago that ego gets in the way of learning no matter how long someone has been doing something.


Well said.


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## Gunny (Oct 30, 2013)

Yes, I agree Arro but, as well there is a flip side to this as well.  Ego is something that is worn or believed by the person portraying it.  NOT SAYING ANYONE HERE but, how do we know who these people are on the other keyboard?  They could be a 10 yr old boy just doing this for kicks to irritate people.  Googling articles like a madman to sound smart. (Not what I think!)   Who knows?  The forum is an awesome place to SHARE opinions and there is some great knowledge out there.  Hell I have learned a lot about wood burning/processing and I am out of the country right now!  Well better put this to bed before it becomes a thread for two, we could go on for a long time.


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## Gunny (Oct 30, 2013)

Did this not start out about stacking wood in a single row?  WoW!


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## oldspark (Oct 30, 2013)

Gunny said:


> Not speaking for anyone but I will say to be careful.  A "newbie" quite possibly could be someone who has been cutting, burning, or processing wood for 20-30 yrs.  I DO know someone who is classified as a "newbie" who at one point in his career was a professional Oregon Timber-feller for years who just found this forum.  Not me, honest.  Be careful what you read under someone's pet name as far as their profile is concerned.  I'm sure a lot are not "newbies"  by far!  Just saying!


 
When I say newbie I mean newbie to woodburning not the forum.


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## oldspark (Oct 30, 2013)

arro222 said:


> You are correct aout being careful Gunny but there is another side to this. I was a logger for 30 years and have been burning wood since 1978. Yet I cannot say I can speak with authority on anything to this regard because all I have is my experience to go by. If my experience has holes or gaps in it and I go on as a "know it all" about such, then I'm not being honest or forth right. I've learned a long time ago that ego can get in the way of learning no matter how long someone has been doing something.


 
Pretty much where I am at, have learned a lot of nitty gritty details about wood burning here, burning dry wood however I learned about 30 years ago after watching green Elm sizzle.


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## bag of hammers (Oct 30, 2013)

Gunny said:


> Did this not start out about stacking wood in a single row?  WoW!



my fault  (sorry muncybob for the diversion)


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## Gunny (Oct 30, 2013)

No ones fault Mr. Hammers, sometimes things are just more fun difficult.


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