# Poulan® 18 in. 40 cc Wild Thing or Husqvarna 235 16-Inch 34.4cc ???



## HDRock (Nov 24, 2012)

Which one to buy ?
Poulan® 18 in. 40 cc Wild Thing  $129
Husqvarna 235 16-Inch 34.4cc $149.99
Or maybe a poulan pro pp4218avx 18 inch 42cc $144
These are in my price range


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## weatherguy (Nov 24, 2012)

The poulans are throw aways, if something breaks it'll probably cost more to fix it than the saws worth, Id go with a Husky, Stihl or even an Echo


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## JOHN BOY (Nov 24, 2012)

Iam guessing your not a heavy wood burner ..?  It depends really on what your gonna use these saws for. If its just for the occasional use i'd get either one.
They'll both cut some wood and smaller tree's


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## cygnus (Nov 24, 2012)

I'll vote for the Poulan. It will treat you well for the money and occasional use. Just get a few files and learn to keep the chain sharp.


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## osagebow (Nov 24, 2012)

I'd avoid the 235 if you need a "firewood saw". It's best suited to light homeowner  duty. Save up  and spend  a bit more and /or or get a used one on CL. I'm not a saw expert. I just wasted time and money on a poulan as a homeowner saw,  and did the same on the 235 when I got into woodburning. Love my old husky 350, a $150 CL find.


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## HDRock (Nov 24, 2012)

weatherguy said:


> The poulans are throw aways, if something breaks it'll probably cost more to fix it than the saws worth, Id go with a Husky, Stihl or even an Echo


  That's why I asked cuz , I don't know enough about chain saws.
I may make do with what I have , and save some more pennies
What I really need is a good 20 in


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## HDRock (Nov 24, 2012)

Well , What do ya think about this one
husqvarna 51 chainsaw - $200
http://flint.craigslist.org/tls/3355521780.html


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## mywaynow (Nov 25, 2012)

TSC has the Wild Thing on sale for 99 bucks.  Drop the 99 and get your money's worth while you learn how to use a saw.  Worst you can do is loose 99 bucks.


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## HDRock (Nov 25, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Well , What do ya think about this one
> husqvarna 51 chainsaw - $200
> http://flint.craigslist.org/tls/3355521780.html


 
Any one

What do ya think about this one
husqvarna 51 chainsaw - $200
http://flint.craigslist.org/tls/3355521780.html [/quote]


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## Thistle (Nov 25, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Any one
> 
> What do ya think about this one
> husqvarna 51 chainsaw - $200
> http://flint.craigslist.org/tls/3355521780.html


[/quote]

That looks like a great deal,especially with the new top end & other parts.


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## Pallet Pete (Nov 25, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Which one to buy ?
> Poulan® 18 in. 40 cc Wild Thing $129
> Husqvarna 235 16-Inch 34.4cc $149.99
> Or maybe a poulan pro pp4218avx 18 inch 42cc $144
> These are in my price range


 
I would go first to a second hand store and look. Lansing has dicker and deal with a ton of used saws in good shape I just found them the other day. I am not sure what you have buy you for pawn shops or used shops.

This may be a bit high at 179 to 199 but the Poulan pro 5020av is a repackaged husky 450 50cc saw and actually well liked over on Arborsite. I used on a few weeks back and it is tuff saw with good power and sounds exactly like the Husky 450. My last Poulan lasted for 5 years before the rebuild and I was cutting a lot with it not bad for a 149.99 saw. Husky owns Poulan and much of there parts have the same part numbers and you have to go to a Husky dealer for parts now as I discovered with mine. They are not bad saws certainly no Stihl or Echo but good!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-POULAN-...801300391?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item1e745d73a7

As to the Husky 451 that is a good saw at a good price I would jump on it ! It would be a good choice for sure.


Pete


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## BrotherBart (Nov 25, 2012)

I have two of the little Husky 142 40cc 16 inch saws and have run the crap out of them for five years now because my big saw is just too heavy anymore. The dang little orange suckers are bullet proof. Well, after you toss that factory Oregon "please don't hurt me or the tree" chain.

Originally just wanted one for a limbing saw. Saw what looked like a pricing mistake on Lowe's website. Called and said "I think that $99 price is a mistake.". Haughty reply "The price is correct. Sir.". OK send me two of them. They did but corrected the price the next day.

Did this whole red oak just for the heck of it with one of them.


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## Pallet Pete (Nov 25, 2012)

Your bar is so pretty BB 

Pete


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## HDRock (Nov 25, 2012)

BrotherBart said:


> I have two of the little Husky 142 40cc 16 inch saws and have run the crap out of them for five years now because my big saw is just too heavy anymore. The dang little orange suckers are bullet proof. Well, after you toss that factory Oregon "please don't hurt me or the tree" chain.
> 
> Originally just wanted one for a limbing saw. Saw what looked like a pricing mistake on Lowe's website. Called and said "I think that $99 price is a mistake.". Haughty reply "The price is correct. Sir.". OK send me two of them. They did but corrected the price the next day.
> 
> ...


 
I found one of those husqvarna 142 chainsaw
Don,t know how much the bar and chain would cost, proly 20 bucks for chain ?
http://thumb.craigslist.org/tls/3373865226.html


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## MasterMech (Nov 26, 2012)

HDRock, I'd go get that 51.  $200 for one that clean is a deal.  Proven reliable saw too.  The 142 is a great saw for the money but they have had some issues that will be frustrating if you're not handy with these things.  If you wanted to buy a new saw for $200, I'd look for a Stihl MS180, best deal going on a new saw for $200.

Budget saw picks (for new saws)

$200 = Stihl MS180
$300 = Stihl MS250
$400 = Stihl MS290/Husky 455 Rancher


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## HDRock (Nov 26, 2012)

I called about The Husky 51 early this evening, but had to leave a message, we will see if it's still available. So many people don't take their adds off when they sell something.
My old mcculloch throttle broke, after I bought a new chain  , I fixed it, but it's not right, no parts for it , and oilier didn't work anyway, only other saw I have is a 14" craftsmen , works good but !!


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## JBinKC (Nov 26, 2012)

Good luck with those choices. I would pick up a Stihl MS 170 or MS 180 or the Echo.CS 310. My problem with the low end Huskies that run at 40 to 1 is they are nothing but Poulan technology at a higher price. My 142 was nothing but a major lemon and learned this in hindsight.


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## HittinSteel (Nov 26, 2012)

That 51 would be a nice saw. Here is another one in your area
http://jxn.craigslist.org/grd/3386851960.html


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## HittinSteel (Nov 26, 2012)

or this one by the same seller
http://jxn.craigslist.org/grd/3386851368.html

maybe give the guy a call and see what else he has too

this one looks nice too  
http://flint.craigslist.org/for/3425151173.html


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## kevin j (Nov 26, 2012)

low end saws not my first choice, but if you go Poulan go the extra $$ for the pro. It is NOT a pro saw, but has anti vibr and is not a bad consumer saw.  I have one right now trying to sell locally.
The WT is peppy with a muffler opening up, but without AV it will tingle your hands.
Menards has piles of the WT now at $99.


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## HDRock (Nov 26, 2012)

Hey, HittinSteel, thanks a lot for looking for me, I had never heard of,Jonsered, or,Dolmar, can you get parts for them?
I called about the ,stihl ms270, but no one answered, what size engine is that saw have. I am liking this one.

I got a hold of the guy with the husky 51 , apparently he was using it and tree fell on it , so now It needs a new bar and chain and something else ,he is going to put it back up for sale in a couple weeks when he gets it all fixed up at a higher price.
I found another husky 51 but not much info on it , http://flint.craigslist.org/grd/3432958024.html


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## HittinSteel (Nov 26, 2012)

A Jonsered is basically a Husqvarna of a different color and yes parts are readily available for jonsered and dolmar. I believe the Jonsered 2150 is equivalent to the Husqvarna 350. Nice 50cc firewood saw.

The 270 is a very good price, so unfortunately, it is likely gone. I believe it is a 50-55cc.

I'd look pretty hard at the 2150..... see if he'll come down just a bit and give you a 30 day warranty.


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## Thistle (Nov 26, 2012)

That Jred 2150 looks pretty good.I wouldnt mind having a 2094/95 sometime.Not many of them around lately I've noticed,that are for sale that is.An extra nice 2094 w/ fullwrap handlebar,mega-sized falling dogs & 36" b/c from a dealer in B.C. Canada sold a couple months back for around $650 including shipping to the US.


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## Pallet Pete (Nov 26, 2012)

http://lansing.craigslist.org/tls/3435682246.html that's a nice saw !

http://saginaw.craigslist.org/grd/3387859656.html

Not sure if you saw this one yet HD ! 


Pete


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## HDRock (Nov 26, 2012)

I got a hold of this guy,husky 51 , http://flint.craigslist.org/grd/3432958024.html
He says he selling it because he needs money ,and he doesn't really want to sell it. He said he has a homelite with a 16 inch bar he will sell me for 40 bucks, it's like 45cc, he says homelite are good saws, IDK, are they? ??


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## Pallet Pete (Nov 26, 2012)

HDRock said:


> I got a hold of this guy,husky 51 , http://flint.craigslist.org/grd/3432958024.html
> He says he selling it because he needs money ,and he doesn't really want to sell it. He said he has a homelite with a 16 inch bar he will sell me for 40 bucks, it's like 45cc, he says homelite are good saws, IDK, are they? ??



My old one lasted one tree then died ! It felt cheap and sounded cheap.

Pete


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## HDRock (Nov 26, 2012)

Pallet Pete said:


> http://lansing.craigslist.org/tls/3435682246.html that's a nice saw !
> 
> http://saginaw.craigslist.org/grd/3387859656.html
> 
> ...


yeah Pete I did see that ,and called and got an answering machine, it doesn't say the location .
 How much does a new bar run about 25 30 bucks ???


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## Pallet Pete (Nov 26, 2012)

They where 40 when I looked for a 18" bar but you should stick a 16" on if you want power.

Pete


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## HDRock (Nov 26, 2012)

Pallet Pete said:


> My old one lasted one tree then died ! St felt cheap and sounded cheap.
> 
> Pete


 
Well I have the ash trees coming down,14,16,18,and a 20 inch, to cut up,then later the 2 Oaks will be coming down,one is 24 inch


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## Pallet Pete (Nov 26, 2012)

If your willing this weekend I can meet you at Dicker and Deal and we can look over there used saw collection in lansing. They have a bunch usually husky, dolmar, some stihl and a few others. I would not buy the homelite they are not to durable anymore. The old ones where built like tanks but not the new ones.

Pete


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## kenskip1 (Nov 26, 2012)

Look at the numbering ' If the Husqvarna saw has 235 then it is a Poulan. If it has 435 then it is t Husky.Ken


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## amateur cutter (Nov 26, 2012)

Hey HD, Might be worth taking Pete up on that offer. You may be a little disappointed in a 50 cc saw in some of that wood. 50cc is 16-18" bar territory if you want any kind of power. If you're not in a huge hurry, you may wanna look in the 60 cc used class of saws. 036/MS 360 or similar Husky or J Red. You'll die of old age/boredom waiting on the poulan type saw with an 18" bar & lo pro chain in that wood. Pete knows his saws pretty well, & can give you some good advice. A C


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## MasterMech (Nov 26, 2012)

I'd be all over that Stihl 034. Will run a 20" bar with authority.

http://lansing.craigslist.org/tls/3435682246.html

A new Stihl OEM bar and chain will run $60-70 but there are other options.


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## HDRock (Nov 27, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> I'd be all over that Stihl 034. Will run a 20" bar with authority.
> 
> http://lansing.craigslist.org/tls/3435682246.html
> 
> A new Stihl OEM bar and chain will run $60-70 but there are other options.


Whats other options ??


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## MasterMech (Nov 27, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Whats other options ??


 http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORF+106032&catID=

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Forester-Pr...245?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4153e98d5d

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Bar-Chai...473?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b3b42519

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BAR-CHAIN-2...790?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5197f44406

You get the idea.


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## HDRock (Nov 27, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORF 106032&catID=
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Forester-Pr...245?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4153e98d5d
> 
> ...


Ya !! thanks for the links, man
That's what I thought U meant something other than OEM


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## HDRock (Nov 27, 2012)

Now I need to do some research on different chain tooth configurations. Only thing I have ever used are, low pro ,chains
Boy ! how little I really know  but I'm a fast learner


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## StihlHead (Nov 27, 2012)

When it comes to B&C, there are many options for Stihl that are not OEM. GB, Oregon, Cannon, Windsor... and they all run fine. I like my GB bars the best, but they are not making them in Oz like they used to any more. I run mostly Stihl and GB bars, and mostly Stihl and Carlton chain, but I have a few Oregon bars and loops around. You can also get good used bars out there...


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## MasterMech (Nov 27, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Now I need to do some research on different chain tooth configurations. Only thing I have ever used are, low pro ,chains
> Boy ! how little I really know  but I'm a fast learner


 
Stick with stuff that says you're gonna die on the box. The more warning labels, the better.


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## kevin j (Nov 27, 2012)

Bigger trees than I think you would want to attack with 45cc. Yes it can be done, I did for many years, but cutting is slow and hard on the saw.
Best bang for the buck is the Makita/Dolmar 6400 from the Home Depot tool rental fleet. They sell off for $200-250, 64cc, and can be bumped to the 79cc for about $200 in the future. Fast and smooth. Hard to find, you just have to keep calling all the tool rentals every month or so.
kcj


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## HDRock (Nov 27, 2012)

I don't know what the selling price will be but, sounds pretty good.
*Stihl 039 Chainsaw Fully Reconditioned 6-Month Warranty Authorized Dealer*

*Two of them*

*http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-039-C...891740221?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item20cdcd583d*

*http://www.ebay.com/itm/140891745577?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649*


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## Pallet Pete (Nov 27, 2012)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husqvarna-4...034243140?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item2a267b5444

Here is a good one with a buy it now price ! 

Pete


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## HDRock (Nov 27, 2012)

I was watching this one , should have tried for it
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110979586792?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


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## Pallet Pete (Nov 27, 2012)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-M...029799213?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item1c2df02d2d

HERE LOOK NOW VERY GOOD lol.

Pete


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## Thistle (Nov 27, 2012)

Pallet Pete said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-M...029799213?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item1c2df02d2d
> 
> HERE LOOK NOW VERY GOOD lol.
> 
> Pete


 
He has good older saws quite often.That McCulloch Pro Mac 55 looks good too. A few months  back he sold a Mac SP125,Jonsered 2095, 2 - Husky 288XPs  & even a Stihl 090 w/ 48" bar/chain all within about 2 weeks time.Gets some large old muscle saws in fairly regularly.


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## Pallet Pete (Nov 27, 2012)

Thistle said:


> He has good older saws quite often.That McCulloch Pro Mac 55 looks good too. A few months back he sold a Mac SP125,Jonsered 2095, 2 - Husky 288XPs & even a Stihl 090 w/ 48" bar/chain all within about 2 weeks time.Gets some large old muscle saws in fairly regularly.


 
Thistle I am half tempted to buy that Husky 61 ! I am going to ask this seller to the watch list.

Pete


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## HDRock (Nov 27, 2012)

Thistle , have you been watching this seller ? Have U bought from him?
I have looked at so many saws my brain is getting fried.
I might just get this 61 or go to menards and get a POULAN PRO PP5020AV


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## Thistle (Nov 27, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Thistle , have you been watching this seller ? Have U bought from him?
> I have looked at so many saws my brain is getting fried.
> I might just get this 61 or go to menards and get a POULAN PRO PP5020AV


 
Never bought from him,but I do watch his sales from time to time.Nice to get a rough idea what certain items are going for,overall.

One of these days I'll get lucky with a seller having what I'm looking for + having the spare cash right then at the same time.I'm a patient man. If it was me,I'd use the money on an older saw like that 61.Much more durable build quality than any of the Poulans (or smaller-mid sized consumer Husky's for that matter) from the past decade or so IMO.


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## MasterMech (Nov 28, 2012)

Pallet Pete said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-M...029799213?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item1c2df02d2d
> 
> HERE LOOK NOW VERY GOOD lol.
> 
> Pete


 
I'd give him extra $$ to lose the Ryobi pull start handle.  That's just wrong.


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## HDRock (Nov 28, 2012)

Now It's between this one Stihl 034, http://lansing.craigslist.org/tls/3435682246.html,
and this one, HUSQVARNA MODEL 61
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-M...029799213?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item1c2df02d2d


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## Thistle (Nov 28, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Now It's between this one Stihl 034, http://lansing.craigslist.org/tls/3435682246.html,
> and this one, HUSQVARNA MODEL 61
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-M...029799213?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item1c2df02d2d


 

Go  ahead & pull the trigger on dat 61.....you *know *you want to!


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## Pallet Pete (Nov 28, 2012)

I would get the 61 good saw good support and has a bar and chain already. 

Pete


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## HDRock (Nov 28, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> I'd give him extra $$ to lose the Ryobi pull start handle. That's just wrong.


 
Ya I here that  ,and I sent him a message, and said quote, If I buy this saw could I give you a little extra $$ , to lose the Ryobi pull start handle ?? 
He replied , no problem i will replace that handle ...we took saw in on trade in and thats cover that was on saw , as far as the running of saw it runs great , i have boxes of handles and will replace at no charge


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## HDRock (Nov 28, 2012)

Pulled the trigger, the 61 is paid for, Good find Pete
OK ,dudes, you convinced me to get this older saw, If it poops out ,I'm bringing to you to tear apart and fix it  

I was looking at another one(http://www.ebay.com/itm/300820913123?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)

but , I thought this one, ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/121029799213?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649) looked better ,for a little more $$ , so let the other one go]


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## mywaynow (Nov 28, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Pulled the trigger, the 61 is paid for, Good find Pete
> OK ,dudes, you convinced me to get this older saw, If it poops out ,I'm bringing to you to tear apart and fix it
> 
> I was looking at another one(http://www.ebay.com/itm/300820913123?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)
> ...


 Good move avoiding the pawned item.  A person is more likely to sell a good item outright and dump a questionable one at a pawn shop.


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## Pallet Pete (Nov 28, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Pulled the trigger, the 61 is paid for, Good find Pete
> OK ,dudes, you convinced me to get this older saw, If it poops out ,I'm bringing to you to tear apart and fix it
> 
> I was looking at another one(http://www.ebay.com/itm/300820913123?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)
> ...


 
Good stuff you will have to bring that bad boy over and we can race saws !  Safely that is .

Pete


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## HDRock (Nov 28, 2012)

Down loaded a couple of manuals but ,when I get the saw , how do I date it  ? what numbers to look for ?, and decipher ?


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## HDRock (Nov 28, 2012)

Pallet Pete said:


> Good stuff you will have to bring that bad boy over and we can race saws !  Safely that is .
> 
> Pete


Have you ever seen official belt sander races ? It's cool as hell, They have different classes , beef up the motors , and have prize money


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## Pallet Pete (Nov 28, 2012)

Not official races but we used to race them growing up even got one to climb part way up a wall once. My mom came out of the house angry as a whole nest of shook up bees too.  I sent on after her I was a bad kid.  She ended my rain of terror by giving the sander to my Dad who promptly hid it and himself from her wrath

Pete


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## Thistle (Nov 28, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Down loaded a couple of manuals but ,when I get the saw , how do I date it ? what numbers to look for ?, and decipher ?


 
There should be an aluminum ID tag near the oil filler cap.Shows the serial number,date of manufacture.

Something like this - Unless they changed their code,I was told the first digit (unless its a entire year spelled out like 2007 for example) is the year,the next two are week of production.


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## HDRock (Nov 28, 2012)

Wow, Paid for It at 630pm ,he had replaced pull handle,and I had a tracking number at 7pm


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## HittinSteel (Nov 29, 2012)

61 is a nice saw, you'll like it. I had one until it became a ported 268XP.

Edit: Upon looking at the saw closer, make sure to post the build tag when you get it, I'm not totally convinced that is a 61 (maybe a 266XP?!)

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...9f5525102886abf488256b52001a33af?OpenDocument


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## HDRock (Nov 29, 2012)

HittinSteel said:


> 61 is a nice saw, you'll like it. I had one until it became a ported 268XP.
> 
> Edit: Upon looking at the saw closer, make sure to post the build tag when you get it, I'm not totally convinced that is a 61 (maybe a 266XP?!)
> 
> http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...9f5525102886abf488256b52001a33af?OpenDocument


 
I will post the build tag.
I was wondering why it had XP on the top, and was thinking of asking on here.,cuz IDK
 I asked him if he could  take a quick look and tell me the Date of manufacture,but it was already shipped, and he said, " that saw was made in early 90's i believe , the cylinder shows little use"


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## HittinSteel (Nov 29, 2012)

HDRock said:


> I will post the build tag.
> I was wondering why it had XP on the top, and was thinking of asking on here.,cuz IDK
> I asked him if he could take a quick look and tell me the Date of manufacture,but it was already shipped, and he said, " that saw was made in early 90's i believe , the cylinder shows little use"


 
Well, the top with the XP is definitely not from a 61, as it was not an XP saw. But it could simply just have a cover from a 266. The 61 was the smallest of the saw family which included the 61, 266, 266se, 266XP and 268XP and maybe some others.

I hope the build tag will give some clues, but the only way of truly knowing may be to measure the bore (61=58mm, 266=60).

It really doesn't matter, as you have purchased an extremely healthy saw at 160+ compression, it would just be that much better of a deal if it actually turned out to be a 266.


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## amateur cutter (Nov 29, 2012)

I'm holding my breath in anticipation. A C


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## HDRock (Nov 29, 2012)

I'm excited , it will be the badest saw I ever owned  besids my 5hp table saw
I hope it is a 66cc, but, which ever it is, it sounds like it has a lot of life left in it
I was looking at this ,so I can have a working brake, but IDK cuz It's an after market part.
*CLUTCH SPROCKET SIDE COVER FITS HUSQVARNA 268 272 266 61 66XP NEW http://www.ebay.com/itm/170950658844?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649*


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## HDRock (Nov 29, 2012)

Well this is after market also at bailey's http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=QH+50373+6601&catID=


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## HittinSteel (Nov 30, 2012)

The Baileys aftermarket is very nice, I had one on an old 281XP.

edit: I also see your post looking for a brake band in the items wanted..... just an fyi, that cover takes the metal brake handle, which is very rare and hard to find. Happy hunting, but I have seen people searching on arboristsite with no luck. 

My 61 has the metal band and looks functional, but does not have the "guts" (brake band).

Baileys may be the best choice if you want a functioning brake.


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## amateur cutter (Nov 30, 2012)

HittinSteel said:


> Baileys may be the best choice if you want a functioning brake.


 
You want a functioning brake, really you do. A C


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## bogydave (Nov 30, 2012)

HittinSteel said:


> The Baileys aftermarket is very nice, I had one on an old 281XP.
> 
> edit: I also see your post looking for a brake band in the items wanted..... just an fyi, that cover takes the metal brake handle, which is very rare and hard to find. Happy hunting, but I have seen people searching on arboristsite with no luck.
> 
> ...


 
My 61 also no brake. Finally took the brake stuff off,
Back up saw now, Lots of "make do" parts ,  screws ,epoxy & tape holding it together, & some missing parts, 
 Bought new in 1982 at the Alaska state fair.  Still runs.


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## HDRock (Nov 30, 2012)

amateur cutter said:


> You want a functioning brake, really you do. A C


 
Well, I was thinkin I would make the saw complete ,but for 50 or 60 bucks  I don't think so .
I could use the $$ to get another chain and some more beer


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## HittinSteel (Nov 30, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Well, I was thinkin I would make the saw complete ,but for 50 or 60 bucks  I don't think so .
> I could use the $$ to get another chain and some more beer


 
And that's before Baileys bends you over on shipping.

I bought more beer too.


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## Pallet Pete (Nov 30, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Well, I was thinkin I would make the saw complete ,but for 50 or 60 bucks  I don't think so .
> I could use the $$ to get another chain and some more beer


 
Trust me HD if that saw kicks back you will wish that brake was on it while your bleeding out of your forehead. That is a lot of torque on a much lighter saw than the older steel and cast ones. Believe me you cant stop that saw while it is flying at you it just hits ! I have seen more than one nasty bloody mess from a kick back and thank goodness it was not me. 

Pete


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## Pallet Pete (Nov 30, 2012)

Think of it this way you just bought very nice expensive saw at a great price and it will still be a steal after the brake. Before you buy it online call around and ask Husky shops if any of them have one laying around. There are husky shops all over the place ! The last time one of my saws died I was able to buy a similar model for 20 bucks out of a junk saw pile at a husky dealer  and combine them so I still had a saw.

Pete


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## MasterMech (Dec 1, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Well, I was thinkin I would make the saw complete ,but for 50 or 60 bucks  I don't think so .
> I could use the $$ to get another chain and some more beer


 

At the very least let's make sure you're wearing chaps while you look for those chainbrake parts.


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## hilbiliarkiboi (Dec 1, 2012)

Take a spare beer to wash blood off.  Head tends to bleed well!


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## HDRock (Dec 1, 2012)

I am still looking for a brake assembly clutch cover, I called some places today.
I will get a brake fixed up on it, according to tracking information the saw won't be here until Thursday the 6th , so maybe I will have a part by then.

I never had a pair of chaps, the biggest saw I ever ran was a 35cc, and really haven't done a lot of cutting, like I will be doing now , but I guess I should have had them anyway. I found a pretty good price here , Chain Saw Chaps & Helmet System New - $85, http://saginaw.craigslist.org/tld/3427710555.html , the only bad thing is it is a 60 mile drive, but it is a good price for both .

I have had a few minor mishaps in the wood shop , and one not so minor, but didn't get hurt , I had a mishap with a big industrial hand held grinder involving my thigh one time , so ! I know sh!t _*can*_ happen

Oh ya , a die grinder with a wire wheel sure does take skin off your knuckle FAST


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## Pallet Pete (Dec 1, 2012)

HDRock said:


> I am still looking for a brake assembly clutch cover, I called some places today.
> I will get a brake fixed up on it, according to tracking information the saw won't be here until Thursday the 6th , so maybe I will have a part by then.
> 
> I never had a pair of chaps, the biggest saw I ever ran was a 35cc, and really haven't done a lot of cutting, like I will be doing now , but I guess I should have had them anyway. I found a pretty good price here , Chain Saw Chaps & Helmet System New - $85, http://saginaw.craigslist.org/tld/3427710555.html , the only bad thing is it is a 60 mile drive, but it is a good price for both .
> ...



That looks good HD !


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## Pallet Pete (Dec 1, 2012)

http://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-Pro...qid=1354410243&sr=8-2&keywords=chainsaw+chaps


http://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-531...qid=1354410243&sr=8-4&keywords=chainsaw+chaps


This may save you a few bucks.

Pete


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## HDRock (Dec 2, 2012)

The Heritier Saw Mill is actually 70 mi one way, to far !  no savings,  so I ordered some chaps from amazon


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## HDRock (Dec 2, 2012)

If I have done my home work correctly this should be the right full chisel chain,free ship , from West Branch, Michigan
*20" Oregon Husqvarna Stihl 72LGX-72 Chainsaw Chain, http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Oregon-H...492?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f071d68a4*


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## HDRock (Dec 2, 2012)

I got a brake,  clutch cover. If It turns out to be a 61 or 266 , It doesn't matter , it will fit both , correct ?


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## HDRock (Dec 5, 2012)

OK U all , got the saw.
Whats up with this air filter, why would they drill holes in it ??

EDit : found the replacement filter. Is this a different carb ??


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## HittinSteel (Dec 5, 2012)

Looks like someone converted an older filter style to fit a newer 61 intake.....then it migrated back to your older style saw.

Not a big deal, I'd just try and seal the 2 extra holes.


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## Thistle (Dec 5, 2012)

Do they/did they make a high top filter & cover for the 61? I seen a few 262/266/268XP's with one over the years....


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## HDRock (Dec 5, 2012)

When I search for a new air filter for the model 61 , what I come up with, does not have a hole in the center it shows two holes, side-by-side, so IDK.
Included , Here is a pic of the plate , and side starter cover, so I am assuming it is a model 61 and not a 266.
_*But that's not the half of it here, THE SAW FLEW APART WHEN I STARTED IT  *_

Here is a copy of the message I sent to the eBay seller.

I received the saw today and I started it up, it started to make a rattling noise, before I could even hit the kill switch, broken plastic was shooting out.
I don't know if it was caused by the rope inside, but when I took off the starter side cover, some of the rope was wrapped around the wrong place inside the cover.
The broken plastic came from a plastic part that is under the starter cover, one of the Pawls is attached to the flywheel was no longer attached, and there was a pin laying in there that had came out, and pieces of little springs that I guess are attached to the pawls.
There was only a little damage to the flywheel, and the engine turns over fine.
I don't know what happened, and I don't think it's real bad but it definitely needs repair now.
I don't know that much about working on chainsaws, but whatever happened I did not cause it.
Do you have an idea what I am talking about?
Do you have an idea what might have happened?
I can e-mail you pictures 

 EDIT : Oops I forgot the pictures , I have to go downsize them first I'll put them up in a little bit


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## Boog (Dec 5, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Which one to buy ?
> Poulan® 18 in. 40 cc Wild Thing $129
> Husqvarna 235 16-Inch 34.4cc $149.99
> Or maybe a poulan pro pp4218avx 18 inch 42cc $144
> These are in my price range


 
For just a little bit more I'll have a nice used Stihl 250 coming up for sale.  I've put about 4 tanks of gas through it cutting smaller stuff since trading for it recently, it runs great. My doctor says I need to part with some of my smaller saws!


ADDED NOTE: I posted the above before I read about your troubles with this one, sorry, I didn't mean to be rubbing it in by offering something else. I thought you were still looking. Mike


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## HDRock (Dec 5, 2012)

Boog Powell said:


> For just a little bit more I'll have a nice used Stihl 250 coming up for sale.  I've put about 4 tanks of gas through it cutting smaller stuff since trading for it recently, it runs great. My doctor says I need to part with some of my smaller saws!
> 
> 
> ADDED NOTE: I posted the above before I read about your troubles with this one, sorry, I didn't mean to be rubbing it in by offering something else. I thought you were still looking. Mike


 Oh !  thats ok Mike


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## amateur cutter (Dec 5, 2012)

Boog Powell said:


> My doctor says I need to part with some of my smaller saws!


 
Find another doctor Boog. Only reason to part with a smaller saw is to upgrade to pro grade smaller saw.


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## Boog (Dec 5, 2012)

amateur cutter said:


> Find another doctor Boog. Only reason to part with a smaller saw is to upgrade to pro grade smaller saw.


 
Well I have, I've picked up two 026s, "plain vanilla ones", but they act like they wanna be pros.


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## HDRock (Dec 5, 2012)

I got a hold of the guy he,is sending me, 2 pawls, 2 springs, 2 pins, 2 washer with inner fan cover , he said he sent all the parts I need.
He said, I have had this happen before, sounds like a starter pawl came off and busted the inner fan cover

Why would this come apart ??
It ran good for 30 seconds


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## HittinSteel (Dec 6, 2012)

The bolt(s) weren't tight.

One time I got a saw on trade from a reputable person. It wouldn't run right. I finally found that the cylinder bolts were loose. He must have forgotten to tighten them down after he replaced the p&c.

Sorry this happened, but it is nice he is sending the parts. Won't be a difficult fix. Here is the ipl for your saw (with the 1 bolt air filter setup).

http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI1983_AAaa/HUSI1983_AAaa_I8300013_.pdf


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## HDRock (Dec 6, 2012)

I think I am missing a part,a little metal deal that goes under the end of where bar mounts , my other saw has one .
*Is this mdl 61 suppose to have one* ? Is it a necessary part ?  It looks like it is suppose to have one in the ipl,  part 501 81 48-01
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
 8-01


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## HDRock (Dec 6, 2012)

HittinSteel said:


> The bolt(s) weren't tight.


Than doesn't make sense ether,cuz U see in the pic the part that came out is not a bolt but a pin ,which I assume is just hammered, tapped in


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## HittinSteel (Dec 7, 2012)

I'd email the seller again and get the bar plate that is missing.....it guides the flow of oil to the bar.

Hmmmmm....... I'm not sure on the pin deal. The only time I messed with a starter pawl, it was screwed in.


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## HDRock (Dec 7, 2012)

HittinSteel said:


> I'd email the seller again and get the bar plate that is missing.....it guides the flow of oil to the bar.
> 
> Hmmmmm....... I'm not sure on the pin deal. The only time I messed with a starter pawl, it was screwed in.


 
  Thanks, I didn't know what the function of that  plate was


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## HDRock (Dec 8, 2012)

I got the starter pawl fixed, now I find out I have a 18" bar, (The chain that was on it is crap and binding)  already bought a 72lgx 72,20" chain,which is 3/8 pitch,.050 gage, I have a 7 tooth sprocket.
I want to just get a new 20" bar, Help me out here, *what bar is going to work with that  chain and sprocket ???*

Oh ya seller gave me a $20 refund ,for bar plate and gas cap, so I can get them on my own


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## HittinSteel (Dec 8, 2012)

You just need to make sure the bar is a large mount husky( description will list saws like the 61, 266, 365, 372, 385, 390 etc.) and that it is 3/8" .050 for 72 drive links.
The bar below would work for example. The Husky bar is a repainted oregon powermatch which is a good quality.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HUSQVAR...750?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item416292237e

Glad the seller is making things right. Seems like he is an honest seller that doesn't know a whole lot about saws.

BTW, now that your on the arboristsite, find the "Beg for Manuals" thread. If you ask nicely, someone will send you the actual shop manual for your saw which will guide you through any repair you might need. Seems like there is always something with saws (especially when you own a lot). Today I'm replacing the oiler and clutch on my 372. Not a bad job once you get the clutch off and very nice to have the manual to follow the proper procedure.

Good luck!


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## HittinSteel (Dec 8, 2012)

Here's picture of my 61.


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## HDRock (Dec 8, 2012)

Long story,short, all the problems with starter pawls !! Big fat starter rope, with a big fat knot, installed improperly, hitting pawls ,causing them to engage  while running  ,more on that later


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## Pallet Pete (Dec 8, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Long story,short, all the problems with starter pawls !! Big fat starter rope, with a big fat knot, installed improperly, hitting pawls ,causing them to engage while running  ,more on that later


Sorry for all the problems HD ! That stinks ! It is a good saw for the price I hope it works. I would be happy to come look it over and see if I can help !

Pete


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## osagebow (Dec 8, 2012)

Sorry you had a lot of problems  - hope you get 'er running right!


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## HDRock (Dec 9, 2012)

I was looking for a guide bar plate and it looks like there is two ,one inside ,one out side, is that right ???
Some one said that some people throw these away , cuz they serve no purpose.


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## HDRock (Dec 9, 2012)

Thanks for the sentiments
Got parts from seller,  inner cover,and pawls
Like I said it had a large rope on it (not the size you see on a chainsaw)   so the knot was hitting on the pawls.
I replaced the cord,and it's working now.
I installed new rope as U see in middle pic, the fat rope was installed like the right pic.


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## HDRock (Dec 10, 2012)

Now the new bar wont fit right see post https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/husqvarna-61-new-bar-wont-fit-all-the-way-down-on-studs.100801/
New clutch cover /Brake, doesn't work right, very hard to pull  back, then is to close to saw handle 
Any one want to buy a Husky 61


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## HittinSteel (Dec 10, 2012)

Are you trying to mount the clutch cover/brake with your new bar?

Sorry this is such a hassle...... but you have to have the large mount (post 98).

I've been there before where it feels like a saw is cursed.


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## Thistle (Dec 10, 2012)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-3...076935761?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item3f1d71c851
  I bought this last summer.$25 for a exact complete copy of same manual used at dealers & saw repair shops.Covers 22 different models.

Only needed it for a couple minor questions but its one of the best investments I ever made.Manuals are available for other models from this Seller & others too.


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## HDRock (Dec 10, 2012)

It's just taking time to straighten it all out,Plus I never dealt with/worked on chainsaws much before .
It seemed to run good (when I had it running ) but, then I found the chain was binding and I couldn't adjust tension, so I haven't started it cuz I didn't think I should run it without a bar & chain.
The clutch cover/brake is what really bothers me cuz it doesn't make sense, and I don't know what my next step is, maybe take to the shop.
I don't like to do that . I fix everything on my own,I don't take my vehicles, to a shop
I knew the saw didn't have a brake, and didn't expect a good chain, but did expect it to run good,start good and have a 20" bar as stated.
Once I get some sawdust in my pants I'll be happy  How does it get there


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## HDRock (Dec 10, 2012)

Thistle said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-3...076935761?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item3f1d71c851
> I bought this last summer.$25 for a exact complete copy of same manual used at dealers & saw repair shops.Covers 22 different models.
> 
> Only needed it for a couple minor questions but its one of the best investments I ever made.Manuals are available for other models from this Seller & others too.


 
Now your talkin , I Have A Factory Service Manual for each of my vehicles, from 3000 to 6000 pages some on DVD


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## HDRock (Dec 10, 2012)

Oh ya I got one of those  http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...mYDQDg&usg=AFQjCNFW5sFECuS92cHEn-T0dXhxV2_apw


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## HDRock (Dec 10, 2012)

HittinSteel said:


> Are you trying to mount the clutch cover/brake with your new bar?


Missed this question before.
No ,I was trying to mount the clutch cover/brake with old bar on


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## firecracker_77 (Dec 12, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Now It's between this one Stihl 034, http://lansing.craigslist.org/tls/3435682246.html,
> and this one, HUSQVARNA MODEL 61
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-M...029799213?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item1c2df02d2d


 
Hold off till you can get a few extra cc's.  The original 40 cc you posted may not have enough juice.


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## HDRock (Dec 12, 2012)

I bought this After Market, Sprocket Cover with Brake for the 61, but It is very very hard to pull back ,then after it's pulled back( disengage brake) and it's on my saw ,the brake handle is to close to the saw handle.When I say, the brake handle is to close to the saw handle, I mean it's like 1/2 to 3/4 inch away from saw handle.

I am returning it for a refund.

I could get one from baileys ,maybe it would work right on the saw but , a guy on arborist forum says,  he has an original cover with metal brake bar in good shape,he says, the rest of the saw needs to much work,  so I my get that .

Got the new ,correct fit,Pro Lite, large mount 20" bar on the way with another 72LGX chain for $50


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## HDRock (Dec 15, 2012)

Alrighty, just an update if you wanted to know, I got The new bar for the 61 , and it fits right, *Now I have a functioning saw,*  I didn't fire it up because it was 10:00 PM
I still have to get the Bar plates though


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## MasterMech (Dec 15, 2012)

HDRock said:


> I didn't fire it up because it was 10:00 PM


 
Is that wrong?


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## Thistle (Dec 15, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Is that wrong?


 

Never stopped me before.Nor at 5AM in summertime either.


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## HDRock (Dec 16, 2012)

I fired it up today and ,I thought I had the starter pawls straightened out but NO. something is not right ,while it's running it's making sparks and the the rope starts coming out some, It appears like the metal part of the starter reel that engages the pawls ,is actually rubbing on the fly wheel but I don't know why .
The cover and reel are from a 266 so I don't know if that has any thing to do with it or not. Maybe there is something missing on the starter reel but, doesn't look like it to me.
It seems like The round metal deal with the 2 notches in it, is to long, or maybe there is a different fly wheel , that's causing a problem IDK
Very hard to see in there when U set the cover on.
_*Any one got an ideas , why that deal/ cog, would be rubbing on the fly wheel.*_
I will get some pics. , so you all can see and maybe U can see something I don't.
This saw is pissin me off  but, It does start and run good, I had it running long enough to cut up a 6ft log, and love the full chisel chain, first one I have used

After thought , maybe the diameter of starter cog is wrong, I'm just guessing here, but the pawls keep getting screwed up ,stuck, and spring broke once


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## HDRock (Dec 17, 2012)

This is the info I found out about this problem

The round metal piece with the 2 notches is too long. This is common with this series of saws(61,266,268,272) when you mix and match from the original. I've dealt with this many times. You can probably grind a little off the end to fix your problem. Sometimes what happens is the plastic air defector can make the difference. On early models the deflector did not fit under the starter mounting screw area and on later models like the 268,272 the deflector fit under the starter completely and in effect moved the starter away from the flywheel by the width of the deflector.

Usually when you have a setup like you have,the starter won't retract because it's so pressed into the flywheel and can't move freely. Someone could have changed the reel from the original,who knows. Should be easy enough to fix.


Boy , this maple seems to burn nice n hot, and long


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## bogydave (Dec 17, 2012)

Well now that you've fix just about every part of the saw.
You are a chain saw guru. 

My 61 has several missing parts, some I've taped together, epoxy, safety wire, paper clips.
& some it works with out them.  Still running but a back up saw now.

Your saw sounds to be in good (better)  shape.
Good job & you learned allot


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## HDRock (Dec 17, 2012)

Yes I have learned a lot but, not just about that saw, I have gained an immense amount of knowledge on every thing related to acquiring, and heating with wood, thanks to you all on here  Fixed up my old eager beaver too , which has been doing all the work so far.
Aside from the problems, That 61 starts up easy and runs great, and like I said, I did get a chance to try out the full chisel chain and, It doesn't play around, pulls some good chips out fast, love it

Edit ,  I also contacted the seller and he is sending me another starter ,and he also suggested, in the mean time that I grind some off the starter cup so I could be using the saw


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## suprz (Dec 17, 2012)

As far as the original question...when i was looking for a saw, we had just had 3 large dead aspens cut down by a tree service and I had them leave the rounds for the backyard fire pit (no stove back then)  i chose the Husqvarna 137 and it worked well for those rounds and for other odd jobs around the yard.   I posted questions about it on a website for chainsaw enthusiasts and got a lot of nasty replies like "it's just a little underpowered orange Poulan". Etc.... I did not let them discourage me, and i will tell the truth,  that little saw takes one heck of a beating!!  It is 4 years old and i have used it more this year than previously,  but it just keeps on chewing that wood up.  I have used it on trunks and rounds that i know i should use a larger saw on but i just took my time and let the saw do its thing.  I have gotten my moneys worth out of this saw and then some.  So moral of the story is, get what feels right for you and be happy with what your saw can do


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## amateur cutter (Dec 17, 2012)

Been  over to AS have you? Good on you for not getting discouraged, it may be a smaller/cheaper saw, but if it does the job, it's a good saw. A C


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## HDRock (Dec 18, 2012)

Well I went out and messed around with the saw again, and ground down the starter cup, well that's not the problem.

The starter cup is actually hitting on the inside of the starter pawls, and grinding some off of them and screwing up the springs.

I measured with calipers the diameter of the starter cup , and the distance between the pawls, the ends where they attach and there is only like 15 thousands clearance there , and there is a slop in the starter reel side to side , so with vibration the starter cup is hitting the starter pawls while running
.
You can see in the picture where the starter cup has removed metal from the Pawl , and the pawl beside it that has not been installed on this saw yet .The pawl on the saw has even more metal removed.


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## HDRock (Dec 18, 2012)

I ground down the diameter of the starter cup , got her working, and YOU SEE put her to work


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## HittinSteel (Dec 18, 2012)

Perseverance pays off 

I think you'll find your efforts paid off. Should be a great firewood saw.


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## amateur cutter (Dec 18, 2012)

HittinSteel said:


> Perseverance pays off
> 
> I think you'll find your efforts paid off. Should be a great firewood saw.


Exactly what He said. Nice work HD. A C


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## HDRock (Dec 18, 2012)

Ya  ! had to cut some bigger stuff to see what kinda guts she had,  chewed up the 20" end of that maple tree quick  !  sweet  
Eager Beaver got a break    but did some small stuff, hard to get parts for 1990s but is a good 35cc saw


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## HDRock (Dec 21, 2012)

I got the new starter from the seller today, the starter cup is a smaller diameter than the other one was.
I haven't put it on the saw yet .
Check out this pull handle 




	

		
			
		

		
	
 I


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## HittinSteel (Dec 21, 2012)

Now you can wear snow mittens and still start your saw hahahaha


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## MasterMech (Dec 21, 2012)

HDRock said:


> I got the new starter from the seller today, the starter cup is a smaller diameter than the other one was.
> I haven't put it on the saw yet .
> Check out this pull handle


 Usually only see that on "Rescue" saws or sometimes "Arctic" versions.


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## Pallet Pete (Dec 21, 2012)

HDRock said:


> I got the new starter from the seller today, the starter cup is a smaller diameter than the other one was.
> I haven't put it on the saw yet .
> Check out this pull handle
> 
> ...


Good lord that seems like it would get in the way a lot ! I am glad your sticking to it HD that saw will be a real beauty when your done and just in time for snow this morning too .

Pete


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## Thistle (Dec 21, 2012)

HDRock said:


> I got the new starter from the seller today, the starter cup is a smaller diameter than the other one was.
> I haven't put it on the saw yet .
> Check out this pull handle
> 
> ...


 
If my big Husky didnt have a decomp valve,I'd seriously think about putting that handle on it. Sold my Poulan 475/rebadged Jonsered 2077 last November,it had 180+ compression & no decomp,as I got older it was a real arm breaker pulling that rope,especially when it snapped back & almost broke my finger!


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## HDRock (Dec 21, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Usually only see that on "Rescue" saws or sometimes "Arctic" versions.


 
The guy I bought the saw from has a saw shop in oregon



Pallet Pete said:


> Good lord that seems like it would get in the way a lot ! I am glad your sticking to it HD that saw will be a real beauty when your done and just in time for snow this morning too .
> 
> Pete


 
I was grinning ear to ear,after I ripped through that 20" tree In no time 



Thistle said:


> If my big Husky didnt have a decomp valve,I'd seriously think about putting that handle on it. Sold my Poulan 475/rebadged Jonsered 2077 last November,it had 180+ compression & no decomp,as I got older it was a real arm breaker pulling that rope,especially when it snapped back & almost broke my finger!


 
On that note, why is a saw so hard to pull some times after it hasn't been run for a while ? cuz not much lubrication in there ?
My 35cc saw, I wasn't holding it down good enough, I pulled and it smacked me in the leg hard  I learned a little lesson that day


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## Thistle (Dec 21, 2012)

HDRock said:


> On that note, why is a saw so hard to pull some times after it hasn't been run for a while ? cuz not much lubrication in there ?
> My 35cc saw, I wasn't holding it down good enough, I pulled and it smacked me in the leg hard  I learned a little lesson that day


 

Saws (pretty much any gas engine I think) are always more difficult to start/have more compression when cold.I cant give you a really scientific answer,just know that's the way it is.


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## MasterMech (Dec 21, 2012)

HDRock said:


> On that note, why is a saw so hard to pull some times after it hasn't been run for a while ? cuz not much lubrication in there ?


 
Combination of tighter clearances, less oil clinging to parts, and thicker/more viscous oil from reduced temps.


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