# Stihl MS 260



## DexterDay (Aug 4, 2012)

I finally got a lightweight saw..... I won an ebay auction last weekend on an MS 260...... 

Plan on changing out the .325 bar and chain. Its got a 16" on it now.. Does anyone have any recommendations? I want to keep it at 16". But any particular Bar and Chain combos that work well? Or would you keep the 3/16"??

I also thought it had a "Fully Adjustable" carb. But it does not appear to be so...  It does "scream" as is... I only ran it for a few minutes, but it did run extremely well.....  How much more power does the 260 run with a carb with "L" and "H" adjustment? ?

I am soaking it in Seafoam tonight and plan to cut this weekend...  For under $170 with shipping, I can't complain....

Some pics....  Its not as clean as my other Stihls. But I can polish it into a diamond


----------



## jeff_t (Aug 4, 2012)

Money well spent.


----------



## MasterMech (Aug 4, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> I finally got a lightweight saw..... I won an ebay auction last weekend on an MS 260......


 





> Plan on changing out the .325 bar and chain. Its got a 16" on it now.. Does anyone have any recommendations? I want to keep it at 16". But any particular Bar and Chain combos that work well? Or would you keep the 3/16"??


 
Most 260's I've seen came from Stihl with .325 cutting hardware.  I'd put a file to it and run it to see how you like it.  I'd stay 16" either way because of the other guns you'll have in your truck.  




> I also thought it had a "Fully Adjustable" carb. But it does not appear to be so... It does "scream" as is... I only ran it for a few minutes, but it did run extremely well..... How much more power does the 260 run with a carb with "L" and "H" adjustment? ?


 
Thought the MS260 only had the H and L carb but I am nowhere near sure.  Possible you got an 026 with 260 badges? or a 260 with an 026 carb?  I'd have your Stihl dealer run the serial (or PM it to me but I dunno when I'll be at my dealer next.)




> I am soaking it in Seafoam tonight and plan to cut this weekend... For under $170 with shipping, I can't complain....
> 
> Some pics.... Its not as clean as my other Stihls. But I can polish it into a diamond


----------



## ScotO (Aug 4, 2012)

They make a chisel chain in .325 that cuts pretty darn good. I'd check one of those chains out before converting the saw to 3/8". My buddy runs those full chisel .325 chains on his MS290 and they do a pretty good job.  As for the carb, I'd definately be looking for something else to put on it if it doesn't have the H-L screws.  What make/model carb is it?  I'm sure you could cross reference it to something that has the adjustments.....


----------



## smokinj (Aug 4, 2012)

That is not the 260 Pro. Just a few diffrances. Stick with the .325 dont adjust the carb. Now if the crab gives you fits down the road change to adjustable one.


----------



## MasterMech (Aug 4, 2012)

smokinj said:


> That is not the 260 Pro. Just a few diffrances. Stick with the .325 dont adjust the carb. Now if the crab gives you fits down the road change to adjustable one.


 
Dex 26RSC should be the chain you're after if you stay with the .325.

I'm real curious about this saws' roots. It appears the label on handle says MS260 as well and there is only 1 opening  on the side to adjust the carb?  I agree with Jay that you should run the carb until you have a problem (maybe never) since you're not going to ask this saw to pull a 24" bar.

That carb may very well be the reason this saw sold at such a low price.  Many "enthusiasts" may have turned their nose up at it because it lacks a fully adjustable carb and oil pump.  Still a steal (Stihl? ) if you ask me.


----------



## DexterDay (Aug 4, 2012)

Ok... So here are more pics. Unlike the carbs on my bigger saws, this does not have a separate choke arm (no other butterfly in carb at all?). Therr is a pad on the right that could actuate an arm/linkage. But nothing.... 

Here is some shots of the carb. No "L & H" adjustment screws. There is a Low Air screw and an idle screw in between the L & H. 

It does appear to be a 260? Although I am no expert. It all seems correct. It screams like a big saw!! 
The adjustment doesnt bother me, as it runs great. Starts easier than my other 2 Stihls. 

MasterMech, the serial is 261026671 if that will help any. It may be a less than desirable model for hardcore enthusiasts. But for $145 ($165 shipped) I aint complaining


----------



## MasterMech (Aug 4, 2012)

Choke mechanism is in the air filter.


----------



## HittinSteel (Aug 4, 2012)

Stay with the .325 16" and instead upgrade to an adjustable carb..... might be a wlabro 426 if memory serves me. Search arboristsite.

Then take off the muffler. It will have just a single exhaust hole. Drill a hole the same size above and below the existing one. Take a dremel and connect the holes, making one oblong one. Retune. She will be a little ripper after that.

Oh, btw, nice saw at a great price. I really like mine


----------



## DexterDay (Aug 4, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Choke mechanism is in the air filter.


 In the filter ?

Not seeing it. 

The tube going from the filter to the carb? 

Its starts the same way as my others. Only easier... Just ran it again and got it Hot and soaked it one last time in Seafoam. The inside of the cylinder, head, and top of piston looks good and its all looking better with each treatment. My 8 yr old Poulon Pro weedwacker cylinder looks almost brand new still (top of piston and cylinder head is what I mean).

Here is a pic of the line-up... Rancher to be sold here shortly.


----------



## smokinj (Aug 4, 2012)

Yes its a 260 but not a 260 pro. Diffrances are adjustable carb and oiler decomp button. Thats it, nothing I could not live without on a 50cc saw.

Now grab the 460 and leave the rest on the porch!


----------



## DexterDay (Aug 4, 2012)

smokinj said:


> Yes its a 260 but not a 260 pro. Diffrances are adjustable carb and oiler decomp button. Thats it, nothing I could not live without on a 50cc saw.



I knew it wasnt a Pro when I bought it... But I thought there were 260's/026's with the adjustable carb out there? 

When I bought it, I asked the seller, "Does this model have the H & L adjustable carb?". He said "Yes". Was he lying? No, not really. If he didnt know what he was looking at, then I could see how he thought it was adjustable?  It does have 2 adjustable screws...  So I cant fault him and it runs like a top anyways... 

I had to turn the Low Air screw in to get to rev better from the bottom. When at idle, if you went to WOT, it wanted to fall on its face (bog a bit). But about a 1/2 turn in and it just goes to the Moon! Almost to high of a rev'er..... I may mix my gas a little richer for this saw (40:1) just because of this. Its not wanting to "Four stroke". 

But other than that, as you said Jay, I can live without it... I will search ebay and look around. If I can get a carb for cheap enough, I will jump on it (just like the saw). 

Hittinsteel- Thanks, yeah its a little ripper now. As for the muffler mod, I will do so, if and when I can get a carb. But for now, I am just gonna run it


----------



## smokinj (Aug 4, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> I knew it wasnt a Pro when I bought it... But I thought there were 260's/026's with the adjustable carb out there?
> 
> When I bought it, I asked the seller, "Does this model have the H & L adjustable carb?". He said "Yes". Was he lying? No, not really. If he didnt know what he was looking at, then I could see how he thought it was adjustable? It does have 2 adjustable screws...  So I cant fault him and it runs like a top anyways...
> 
> ...


 

It does have some adjustments to it. I would run that little sucker untill I had to change the carb out. Probally never happen though. I would not worry much about not hearing the 4 stoke, because it cant be running to lean with out a adjustable carb and the tap stops out. 50cc just dose not spool up like a 70cc saw will.


----------



## DexterDay (Aug 4, 2012)

smokinj said:


> ............ 50cc just dose not spool up like a 70cc saw will.



So True


----------



## Thistle (Aug 4, 2012)

A 50cc saw dont need a decomp button,even a new pro model IMO.

Now a 70cc & larger....especially does for this ol' man.


----------



## StihlHead (Aug 4, 2012)

The 026/260 line had different carbs and top handles on them, as well as several different types of fuel tank air filters and air filters. They also had different muffler plates and/or baffles on them. The 026 had a slightly smaller engine, but the later 260 engine and piston will fit on an earlier 026 saw (and vice-verse). I have owned over a dozen of them, and I have rebuilt or modified all of them. Some got new engines, some got light porting and a few got all-out full porting. Fully ported, these saws can and do ~really~ scream.

You can stay with the 325 or swap it for 3/8 standard B&C. I have done many timed tests comparing 3/8 full chisel and 325 full chisel on my 026s. I got basically all the same cutting times. If you compare the kerf on Stihl 325 and 3/8 std, they are the same. So the amount of energy required to cut is the same. Now, if you get an Oregon narrow kerf 325 B&C that should cut substantially faster. Same if you get a 3/8 picco B&C designed for the 024, they will also cut a lot faster. I have posted about the .325 NK setup here on some other threads here on Hearth. The 325 B&C will cut OK, and I run all 3/8 standard on my 026/260s mainly so that I can swap bars and chains with my other Stihl large mount saws. They run them just fine. I typically run 16 and 18 inch B&C on them, full comp, full or semi chisel (depending on what I am cutting).

As for the Pro vs non-Pro 026/260, the pro model had an adjustable oiler and a decomp button for starting. The decomp button is nore really needed (especially if you drop start your saws) and the non-pro oiler will oil up to a 20 inch bar just fine. So the Pro option is not that big a deal on these saws. As for the non-adjustable carb though, that is a problem. You are limited to a fixed jet, and that is apt to be tuned lean (for EPA). Running lean you are more apt to overheat the engine, and that is apt to score the P&C. Of all the carbs that came on the 026/260, the Walbro WT-194 is the best. It has adjustable H/L jets, and you can port the saw or leave it stock, but tune the H side to match the bar and any modifications that you make to the muffler. I would get one if I were you. I have them on all my 026/260s (they came with them or I swapped them out).


----------



## StihlHead (Aug 4, 2012)

Now, onto 026/260 mufflers.

Here is a photo of an early 026 that I have. Note the open base and many ports in the muffler cover. This saw can breathe and runs better/cooler.


----------



## StihlHead (Aug 4, 2012)

Here is a later 026 model saw with a more choked up muffler:




And here is the same muffler after it has been opened up (to near-original stock):


----------



## StihlHead (Aug 4, 2012)

And here is a photo of the latest model 026/260 with a fully choked up muffler. Note the baffeling in the box and the small holes at 90 degree anges to the exhaust port. I tossed this one and repaced it with an early model 026 muffler.


----------



## Realstone (Aug 4, 2012)

StihlHead said:


> Here is a later 026 model saw with a more choked up muffler:
> 
> 
> And here is the same muffler after it has been opened up (to near-original stock):


Were there any other mods to the muffler other than boring two more holes?


----------



## DexterDay (Aug 4, 2012)

Just got back from doing some cutting with the 260.... 

Yep.... Its a Good little saw. Chain did better than I thought..

Got a FULL truck load of some Ash. Dead fall in the woods along the trails. Cut to 10-15 ft lengths and skided out..


----------



## DexterDay (Aug 4, 2012)

Thanks for all the Info StihlHead........


----------



## MasterMech (Aug 4, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> In the filter ?
> 
> Not seeing it.
> 
> ...


 
That tab on the right side of the master switch shaft should hit the choke lever in the air filter.  Watch it carefully with the filter mounted to the carb.


----------



## DexterDay (Aug 4, 2012)

That tab on the right doesn't hit anything.. I mean nothing. . . There should be a linkage or armature that would do so? 

Thats how it works on my other Stihls...



MasterMech said:


> That tab on the right side of the master switch shaft should hit the choke lever in the air filter.  Watch it carefully with the filter mounted to the carb.


----------



## StihlHead (Aug 4, 2012)

Realstone said:


> Were there any other mods to the muffler other than boring two more holes?


 
Nope, not needed on the single hole non-baffled 026 muffler. The spark screen on those is fairly large, and the exhaust holes in front have a large open area (unlike the 290 type muffler). I keep spark screens on all my saws for legal reasons. You must have them cutting in summer months here during fire season, or you get a huge fine if they bust you.


----------



## StihlHead (Aug 4, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> That tab on the right doesn't hit anything.. I mean nothing. . . There should be a linkage or armature that would do so?
> 
> Thats how it works on my other Stihls...


 
No, MasterMech is correct on this. The tab on the right of the choke lever (the 026 Stihl IPL calls it a 'switch shaft') mates with a lever on the air filter. The air filter has a lever on it that operates a round plastic disk that acts as a choke when it is levered into place behind the opening of the carb when the filter is on the saw.

Another thing to note is that there are two types of choke levers on the 026/260 saws as well. One type is red, the other type is black. I have found that the red ones (on earlier models) are not as good.


----------



## amateur cutter (Aug 4, 2012)

Hey Dex, I may have the carb & muffler you're lookin for, If you want I'll try & remember to check tomorrow when I get to the shop. It'll be late in the day though. A C


----------



## StihlHead (Aug 4, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> Thanks for all the Info StihlHead........


 
Not a problem. After I dumped all my 025 size saws and replaced them with 026/260s, I got to playing with them. There are a ton of differences in year models, and they are fun and easy to work on and modify. They are easy to fully port as well. Porting has several stages. The first stage is opening up the muffler and richening up the carb.

WARNING! do not modify an 026/260 with a fixed H jet! You will score the motor in no time running it too lean!! Also if you have a newer 260 with a limiter tab on an adjustable H jet carb, you will need to pull the limiter and trim that tab so that the H jet can be richened up, or you will score the motor in no time running it too lean

OK, warning over... oops, I forgot one more thing:

WARNING! The EPA has mandated that any chainsaw that has been modified that is then worked on by a dealer, that dealer is required by law to restore the chainsaw to its original condition. Meaning that they will replace the carb limiter and/or muffler with OEM original parts if you take a modified saw in for repair... 

OK, other warning over... where was I? Oh yes, the joy of porting a 260 saw. The first stage I have shown here in photos, open up the muffler. You can do that by drilling one out, or replacing it with an earlier model muffler. The 026 IPL has the three mufflers shown with part numbers. Once they are opened up, re-tune the carb so that it burples or 4-strokes at WOT, and runs smooth in the wood. Even with just that mod, the saw will run a lot cooler and a lot stronger. Upward of 10% improvement. This muffler porting keeps the saw more or less in the noise range as it was when it was stock. More muffler holes means a lot more noise, but they will run even better.

The next more serious stage of porting is called a woods port, or a light porting for a saw that is intended to be used a lot. I recommend that you have a digital tachometer for tuning your saw to do this. For this you mod the muffler as above and then use a grinder (like a Dremel tool) and open up the exhaust port on the right and left side to widen it (and square it out more). Also open up the intake port to widen that, and polish the exhaust port (but not the intake, a rough intake port is better). Do not raise or lower the port openings unless you know something about port timing. That will allow more air and fuel mix into and out of the engine, and it will run stonger as a result. Along with that you can use a piece of fine emery paper on a thick piece of glass, and use that to file down the base of the cylinder to as much as the thickness of the base gasket. That will increase the compression and add more power to the saw. You have to be careful not to shave off too much of the cylinder base though, or the piston will hit the top of the cylinder at TDC. Some people just remove the cylinder base gasket to get the same effect, but I prefer to keep the gasket for a better seal. You also want to leave enough of what is called the 'squish' at TDC. I have done several of these types of port jobs with muffler mods on 026s, and they absolutely scream. I have raised the max RPM up to 15k after these mods. While that may seem high, all the Stihl max RPM limits are set 500 RPM below the actual red line for safety reasons. The actual 026 red line is at 14,500, so it is only 500 over stock. It is running rich enough, and I have not had it overheat on me. To see if the saw is running lean run it hot WOT in wood for 30 seconds, and kill it. Then pull the plug after it cools and have a look. It should be tan. If it is white, it is running too lean. Richen it up.

The more radical porting stages are typically done for racing and limited use. They are best left to known saw modifiers as they take special tools and a lot of experience. I have seen some fully modified saws that were wreaks, and they barely had the power of a stock saw. For this reason many ported saws do not command a premium over stock saws, even though they may have hundreds more dollars put into them. These mods typically involve opening up the exhaust port even more and raising/lowering the ports it to get more gasses out of there faster. You can also widen and/or polish up the piston and cylinder transfer ports, as well as lighten up the piston to reduce the weight. You can also change out the H jet in the carb to get more gas in there. The stock 026 carbs are rather small, and radical porting is limited by the amount of gasoline that you can get in there. Some guys have put in 044 carbs to get around this limitation. They also drill more holes in the mufflers (though they become seriously LOUDER!). They also lighten up bars and use special chains for speed cutting. Usually they are square ground full chisel chains, and they are rather fragile. You can also mess with expansion chambers on saws, but that gets into hot saws and is beyond my experience of saw modifications. In the end? The 026/260 can be modified a little or a lot, and they will scream a little or a lot more. There is nothing more amusing than handing someone a modified 50cc saw that thinks it will run like an old tired 50cc saw (which it looks like), and WHAM! It rips through the wood like a new 60cc saw, and they think, WTF? I sold two woods ported 026s that way. They had to have them!


----------



## StihlHead (Aug 4, 2012)

BTW, another upgrade for an 026 is to put on a newer and larger 260 P&C, they fit with no modificatins needed. The 026 Big Bore kit. Not much more power that way, but it was noticable. I have one 026 that I bought for dirt with a straight gassed engine, and I put a new 260 engine on it. You can also spruce up a tired 026 or 260 with a new set of Cabre rings in Ebay for about $10. If the saw is tired or has low compression, but is not scored, it is likely that the rings are shot.


----------



## MasterMech (Aug 5, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> That tab on the right doesn't hit anything.. I mean nothing. . . There should be a linkage or armature that would do so?
> 
> Thats how it works on my other Stihls...


 
If it starts up as easy as you say, something is working correctly.


----------



## DexterDay (Aug 5, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> If it starts up as easy as you say, something is working correctly.



I agree..... I will look at it later. I have only looked at it operating with the air filter off the saw. 

Getting the baby ready for the day now.. Letting Mama sleep in today. (I cant believe she is still out?!?! ) 

But I am interested in how it works... Oh and the kill switch took a chit yesterday. I think the wire just popped out of the slot. Didnt really look after I got home. 

(Mama is up now.. Finally )


----------

