# Splitting by hand



## phaywood (Mar 6, 2014)

I had purchased a rick of split wood last month and I've burned everything except a few rounds that were in the pile.  I figured I'd try and split them by hand (I had an old rusty axe in the barn).  I had never split wood before but it went smooth.  Then I had a few logs that I had stacked in the Fall so I decided to cut a couple of those with the chainsaw and split those.  After an hour I had almost a whole rick split!  I couldn't believe it went so quickly!  I had planned to purchase a log splitter (or at least rent one) in the spring, but now I'm not sure its necessary.  I enjoy the exercise and it actually seemed faster than splitting by machine.  Is that true?  

So I'm wondering how big of rounds I can expect to split by hand.  Most of those today were only 8-10" at the largest.  I'll also invest in a new axe; everyone here seems to rave about the Fiskar X27.  Should I get anything else?  A Maul? Wedges?  I'm just excited that it actually worked.


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## Woody Stover (Mar 6, 2014)

Yeah, it goes pretty quick if you have some easy-splitting wood. If the rounds are big, you may be able to work around the outside and whittle 'em down that way.
A good arsenal  for starters would be a 6# and/or 8# maul, a sledge and some wedges.


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## tigeroak (Mar 6, 2014)

The biggest I split so far was 54 inches across. I split every thing by hand. Then if I can't split it the saw will. I use a 10 pound maul and when needed 2 wedges. Nothing more than that . I have the next 3 years split and stacked. I split just a little over 4 cord in a week and stacked.


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## bboulier (Mar 6, 2014)

You can split any size round by hand with an X27.  Your ancestors accomplished such tasks with axes that were not nearly as good as those produced by Fiskars.  With a large round, you should start by splitting from the outside and then gradually whacking it until you get a nice square in the middle for further subdivision.   The value of a power splitter has to do with the* quantity* of wood you are splitting.  When I had a large maple tree (40" in diameter at the base) to cut into rounds, I split it by hand for the daily exercise.  When my son had the equivalent of 6 cords or so of oak, maple, and cherry to split, I bought a small Harbor Freight electric splitter.  Good decision.  We did not need anything more powerful, since the diameters of the trees were fairly small.


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## blacktail (Mar 6, 2014)

phaywood said:


> So I'm wondering how big of rounds I can expect to split by hand.



The answer is, "it depends."


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## KindredSpiritzz (Mar 6, 2014)

I like splitting by hand which is good since i dont have a splitter. Just more of a sense of accomplishment looking at a cord of freshly split wood you did by hand.
And swinging an axe always gave me time to contemplate the world and clear my head. It's good for the soul.


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## Bigg_Redd (Mar 7, 2014)

phaywood said:


> So I'm wondering how big of rounds I can expect to split by hand



Anything I can't split by hand get chainsawed.  Having split by hand my entire life I can assure you that while there is some relationship between the diameter of a round and it's difficulty to split, it is not as correlative as you might think.


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## KindredSpiritzz (Mar 7, 2014)

I had some big rounds last year i couldnt lift or split. I discovered if you score the face of the round about 2 inches down in the middle and then use a wedge and sledge hammer it split like a dream (least beech did) and then once i had them in half i could split with a maul easily and I really get a nice chunk of wood in each split that way.


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## HackBerry (Mar 7, 2014)

After swinging a maul for a while you might find your shirts fit a little tighter in the upper back and you have to take up a notch in the belt.


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## toasty (Mar 7, 2014)

Hi guys, just joined the forum as there is some good info here delivered with humor! (we recently moved to Norway,from New Zealand, and are using wood for heating)

I agree about splitting by hand, much better all round. They sell loads of little splitting machines here, but there's nowhere near the satisfaction in my view.

Easy to work around any size round, just make sure they are not too thick. We cut at a foot here and managed the 70 year old Ash (above) easily. I recon on a good day I could beat a splitter too! Esp. using my 'tyre on a log' to stop the logs falling all over the place on chopping.

Never needed a wedge myself but then most of 'our' trees here are babies compared to the ones some of the guys on here chop. This Ash was my biggest ever!


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## Bigg_Redd (Mar 7, 2014)

HackBerry said:


> After swinging a maul for a while you might find your shirts fit a little tighter in the upper back and you have to take up a notch in the belt.




How much splitting are you doing?  I split a lot of wood (10+ cord per year) and by my gorilla math I split 20-25 hours per year which is nowhere near enough to effect my waistline.


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## jatoxico (Mar 7, 2014)

toasty said:


> Hi guys, just joined the forum as there is some good info here delivered with humor! (we recently moved to Norway,from New Zealand, and are using wood for heating)
> 
> I agree about splitting by hand, much better all round. They sell loads of little splitting machines here, but there's nowhere near the satisfaction in my view.
> 
> ...



Hey good technique! Don't let that blade get too far below your hands and you'll never hit your feet, have to use those knees though. What kind of stove you using in Norway?


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## Tom Wallace (Mar 7, 2014)

I split mostly by hand, too. I just got a Pow R Kraft 4 ton splitter yesterday to help deal with some very curvy, full of crotches, plum wood. The wood is made worse by the fact that the guy who cut it down made many diagonal cuts instead of perpendicular to the grain of the branch, like a normal person would.

Previously I've been splitting large douglas fir rounds. Often if they're over around 24" and/or have a few knots in them, I'll use a maul and wedge instead of the Fiskars. The Fiskars does very well on easier to split rounds, though, and I highly recommend it. The Fiskars does not do well on rounds where the grain of the wood isn't very straight. For example, knots, crotches or pieces near the stump where the top and bottom of the round are different size.


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## BillLion (Mar 7, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> How much splitting are you doing?  I split a lot of wood (10+ cord per year) and by my gorilla math I split 20-25 hours per year which is nowhere near enough to effect my waistline.



2-2.5 cord hand split per hour? I must be doing something wrong...


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## BEConklin (Mar 7, 2014)

I tried the old car tire on the ground trick for the first time today. I took down an ash in the yard - maybe 15" DBH - and split the rounds right inside the tire. Of course it's ash so it was easy splitting for the most part - but that tire made the job a whole lot easier. Bout the hardest part was yanking the splits from the biggest rounds out of the tire when I was done. 
Gotta get a piece of plywood for underneath it too - that Fiskars goes right through and keeps on going - tire or no tire.


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## Tom Wallace (Mar 7, 2014)

BEConklin said:


> I tried the old car tire on the ground trick for the first time today. I took down an ash in the yard - maybe 15" DBH - and split the rounds right inside the tire. Of course it's ash so it was easy splitting for the most part - but that tire made the job a whole lot easier. Bout the hardest part was yanking the splits from the biggest rounds out of the tire when I was done.
> Gotta get a piece of plywood for underneath it too - that Fiskars goes right through and keeps on going - tire or no tire.



I recently started using a tire, too. Got a 19" rim tire from Discount Tire. They have a bin outside the shop that they leave tires in, the manager told me they don't lock it and feel free to come by after they're closed and grab one. For some reason they don't want people going through it during business hours. Anyway, I bolted my tired to a large round I use for splitting. I found without the bolts, the tire slid all over the place and fell off the stump a few times. The tire is a great idea.


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## toasty (Mar 7, 2014)

jatoxico said:


> Hey good technique! Don't let that blade get too far below your hands and you'll never hit your feet, have to use those knees though. What kind of stove you using in Norway?



*laughing* I told him that he should stick to the kindling!  It's probably not a 'proper' serious stove compared to what you guys need but it's a Danish one, the TT22S from TermaTech, let me see if I can find the pic.... yup, here.  It weighs in at 460lbs and within an hour all the living space is up to 26 degrees... at least the open window means  the fire gets plenty of air!





p.s. I also had to gasp at the 10 cords in 25 hours... move over superman!


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## toasty (Mar 7, 2014)

Tom Wallace said:


> The Fiskars does not do well on rounds where the grain of the wood isn't very straight. For example, knots, crotches or pieces near the stump where the top and bottom of the round are different size.



That is the trouble with splitting by hand, you really do need straight grain. Can be impossible to split much off anything near a sizable side branch. On the bright side I now have a few oddments of stumps stacked out of sight along the edge of the stream on my bottom plot, that will eventually rot down providing food for the bugs that the birds like...


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## Bigg_Redd (Mar 7, 2014)

BillLion said:


> 2-2.5 cord hand split per hour? I must be doing something wrong...



Math can be difficult so we'll walk through this together: 10 cord in 20 hours = .5 cords per hour, not 2.   

Depending on species (Doug Fir, Adler, bigleaf maple) I'm quite capable of a cord per hour.


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## Bigg_Redd (Mar 7, 2014)

toasty said:


> p.s. I also had to gasp at the 10 cords in 25 hours.



Rilly?  It's truly not some amazing achievement.   How long does it take you to split a cord?


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## CenterTree (Mar 7, 2014)

I hate splitting wood by hand.  I MUCH prefer using an axe.  


I find it easy to split quite FAST with my X27.   But the reality is it is getting to be too much for me lately.

I will be buying a hydraulic this spring though as my tennis elbow is getting to be too painful. 
 Will be a whole new ball game for me with a splitter.


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## STIHLY DAN (Mar 7, 2014)

toasty said:


> *laughing* I told him that he should stick to the kindling!  It's probably not a 'proper' serious stove compared to what you guys need but it's a Danish one, the TT22S from TermaTech, let me see if I can find the pic.... yup, here.  It weighs in at 460lbs and within an hour all the living space is up to 26 degrees... at least the open window means  the fire gets plenty of air!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's a nice looking set up.


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## STIHLY DAN (Mar 7, 2014)

CenterTree said:


> I hate splitting wood by hand.  I MUCH prefer using an axe.
> 
> 
> I find it easy to split quite FAST with my X27.   But the reality is it is getting to be too much for me lately.
> ...



I liked my X27 but also found it hurt my elbow. Got A PA80 from stihl which I like better, and no more elbow pain. My fiskers seemed to like to twist at the end.


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## farmboy05 (Mar 8, 2014)

CenterTree said:


> I hate splitting wood by hand.  I MUCH prefer using an axe.



If Chuck Norris used an axe, the earth would split   I think he only has to punch a tree and it explodes into perfect splits. Then he looks at the splits and they stack themselves out of fear


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## toasty (Mar 8, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> Rilly?  It's truly not some amazing achievement.   How long does it take you to split a cord?


I guess I'm underestimating the size of your trees etc and comparing it to my own efforts managing woodland here in Norway. All my wood comes from management, i.e taking out 'sisters' next to large trees, taking out small stuff to open up the canopy, keeping pathways clear etc. And it's nearly always on a damn slope!

I never just get to chop, chop, chop for any length of time. I usually go into the woods, drop the trees, drag them back to the truck. Cut and split and fill the truck. I read that a cord is about 3 and a half cubic meters, let me do the math, how big is the truck bed..... shoot that means that it takes me half a day to do a little over 1/4 of a chord!

Now you see why at first glance it seems like a herculean task! I googled it and of course you are right, in much differing circumstances than my own it's possible but boy, I bet you sleep after that lot!


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## Tom Wallace (Mar 8, 2014)

toasty said:


> I guess I'm underestimating the size of your trees etc and comparing it to my own efforts managing woodland here in Norway. All my wood comes from management, i.e taking out 'sisters' next to large trees, taking out small stuff to open up the canopy, keeping pathways clear etc. And it's nearly always on a damn slope!
> 
> I never just get to chop, chop, chop for any length of time. I usually go into the woods, drop the trees, drag them back to the truck. Cut and split and fill the truck. I read that a cord is about 3 and a half cubic meters, let me do the math, how big is the truck bed..... shoot that means that it takes me half a day to do a little over 1/4 of a chord!
> 
> Now you see why at first glance it seems like a herculean task! I googled it and of course you are right, in much differing circumstances than my own it's possible but boy, I bet you sleep after that lot!



I think Bigg_Redd is talking about just splitting rounds. Not felling a tree, bucking it and then splitting it like it sounds like you're doing.


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## toasty (Mar 8, 2014)

Tom Wallace said:


> I think Bigg_Redd is talking about just splitting rounds. Not felling a tree, bucking it and then splitting it like it sounds like you're doing.


Thanks, yes, I did realise that. The comment was a knee jerk reaction as it seemed a lot of wood to do in 3 days or so, even if you are just chopin', !  I can see now that it's 'easily' possible, although I'd be knackered for sure.


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## red oak (Mar 8, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> Anything I can't split by hand get chainsawed.  Having split by hand my entire life I can assure you that while there is some relationship between the diameter of a round and it's difficulty to split, it is not as correlative as you might think.



Yes, other factors include the type of wood and the presence of knots/branches.  I split mostly red oak, and have split up to 36" diameter by hand, but red oak is one of the easiest firewoods to split.  All you really need is a maul and a couple of wedges for the stubborn pieces, and a chainsaw for the REALLY stubborn pieces.


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## Bigg_Redd (Mar 8, 2014)

Tom Wallace said:


> I think Bigg_Redd is talking about just splitting rounds. Not felling a tree, bucking it and then splitting it like it sounds like you're doing.



If I have to fell, limb, buck and split it's the better part of a day (6+ hours?) to get a cord on the truck, and that's far more difficult work than splitting a couple cords of rounds.


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## TradEddie (Mar 8, 2014)

I've burned 1-2cord/year each year for the last ten years without ever needing a splitter. The very few impossible pieces get noodled. Almost everything will yield to a wedge or two and brute force. If I was a full time burner, I'd use a splitter, but to me splitting is good exercise, getting firewood out of it is almost just a bonus.

TE


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## Backwoods Savage (Mar 9, 2014)

phaywood said:


> I had purchased a rick of split wood last month and I've burned everything except a few rounds that were in the pile.  I figured I'd try and split them by hand (I had an old rusty axe in the barn).  I had never split wood before but it went smooth.  Then I had a few logs that I had stacked in the Fall so I decided to cut a couple of those with the chainsaw and split those.  After an hour I had almost a whole rick split!  I couldn't believe it went so quickly!  I had planned to purchase a log splitter (or at least rent one) in the spring, but now I'm not sure its necessary.  I enjoy the exercise and it actually seemed faster than splitting by machine.  Is that true?
> 
> So I'm wondering how big of rounds I can expect to split by hand.  Most of those today were only 8-10" at the largest.  I'll also invest in a new axe; everyone here seems to rave about the Fiskar X27.  Should I get anything else?  A Maul? Wedges?  I'm just excited that it actually worked.




Welcome to the forum phaywood. 

How big of rounds to split by hand? No limit! Just split away. You will learn quickly though that all wood does not split the same and will also learn the crotches are the toughest. I split by hand for many years using only a single or double bitted axe. But for the tough jobs I did use sledge and steel wedges. Later in life someone bought me a splitting maul and I had never used one but liked it. Someone tried to talk me into a Fiskar's and I thought it was not very good at all. An injury forced me into hydraulics and I quickly fell in love with this type of splitting. As your body wears out a bit, you will look for the easier ways of working.


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## Driver (Mar 9, 2014)

Backwoods Savage said:


> As your body wears out a bit, you will look for the easier ways of working.


I agree 100% always better to work smarter not harder.


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## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Mar 9, 2014)

Yes like  BS said, no limit, until you get there, I split 4 cords by hand with the x27, loved it, had a great time, couldn't stop, till I got axe arm.... I couldn't chop wood anymore for months, too much pain, I ended up getting a Huskee 22 and love it, now that  I gave my arm a rest, I can choose to split by hand or by Huskee, life is good when you have that choice to make......


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## phaywood (Mar 9, 2014)

Thanks for all the replies.  I'm pretty young - 28, so hopefully I've got a few good years of splitting by hand.  And I hope that as I get older I'll be able to afford a hydraulic splitter... I think I'll order an X27 and give it a try.  It seems like a pretty low risk for only $50.  

I have a busy spring ahead and I'd like to split several cords before summer so they have maximum drying time before next winter.  I do have about 50 standing dead trees that need felling.  Next step is learning how to safely fell a tree!


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## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Mar 9, 2014)

phaywood said:


> Thanks for all the replies.  I'm pretty young - 28, so hopefully I've got a few good years of splitting by hand.  And I hope that as I get older I'll be able to afford a hydraulic splitter... I think I'll order an X27 and give it a try.  It seems like a pretty low risk for only $50.
> 
> I have a busy spring ahead and I'd like to split several cords before summer so they have maximum drying time before next winter.  I do have about 50 standing dead trees that need felling.  Next step is learning how to safely fell a tree!


You should really check out the 3 year plan on here, it will really help you out in your burning practices.... 50 trees should get you there nicely.....


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## phaywood (Mar 10, 2014)

What is the 3 year plan?  I'm not familiar with it.


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## KD0AXS (Mar 10, 2014)

phaywood said:


> What is the 3 year plan?  I'm not familiar with it.



You should be at least 3 years ahead on your firewood supply.  That means the wood you CSS today won't be used for at least 3 years.


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## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Mar 10, 2014)

phaywood said:


> What is the 3 year plan?  I'm not familiar with it.


It's like the 12 step program....  An addiction....


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## 8686 (Mar 10, 2014)

Ram 1500 with an axe... said:


> couldn't stop, till I got axe arm....


dude, I got axe arm too!  My right forearm is killing me! I involve my legs when I swing so that I don't chop off any toes.  Between that and all the bending over, it's pretty brutal.  I'm 35 and really can only get through about 5 or 6 big logs before I'm done.  I'm not in the best of shape but I'm also new to this.

Picked up a fiskars x27 at BJs.  With that long handle it makes it difficult to hit your toes.  It feels good to use.  There is a youtube video  this one.  Love that tire technique.  As soon as I swing the maul the the wood usually flies off the stump whether I split it or not.  I'm always bending over.  I think that's what kills me the most.  Gotta find a tire!


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## 8686 (Mar 10, 2014)

What do you guys put down on the ground to keep your wood up ()?  I use pressure treated 4x4 but I am looking for something a little more "open" and breathable.  I was just thinking of mice and rodents.  I don't want to be building houses for them.


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## Tom Wallace (Mar 10, 2014)

8686 said:


> dude, I got axe arm too!  My right forearm is killing me! I involve my legs when I swing so that I don't chop off any toes.  Between that and all the bending over, it's pretty brutal.  I'm 35 and really can only get through about 5 or 6 big logs before I'm done.  I'm not in the best of shape but I'm also new to this.
> 
> Picked up a fiskars x27 at BJs.  With that long handle it makes it difficult to hit your toes.  It feels good to use.  There is a youtube video  this one.  Love that tire technique.  As soon as I swing the maul the the wood usually flies off the stump whether I split it or not.  I'm always bending over.  I think that's what kills me the most.  Gotta find a tire!



I'm not sure what you mean by "involving your legs". I stand with my feet wide apart and square to the wood. I use a tire on top of a stump. If the blade skips through the wood short, it usually hits the tire and stops. Sometimes it gets deflected to the side. I've ordered steel toe boots to help deal with those situations. So far I've not come close to hitting a foot.

For tires, I'd call tire shops in your area and ask if you can have a tire they're throwing out. Or just show up at one if they're nearby. I asked Costco and they told me I couldn't have one. Discount Tire said I could take one from their storage box outside the store, but wanted me to come by at night when they're closed. The manager said "it's a big no no for people to be in there during the day". Not really sure why, but I showed up after they closed and got a nice 19" low profile tire, works great. He said they don't lock the storage unit that holds the tires. So if you have a Discount Tire near you, you may be able to just show up at night and grab a tire.

If you put your tire on top of a stump, I'd secure with lag screws. Otherwise it slides all over the place when you chop.


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## Backwoods Savage (Mar 10, 2014)

8686 said:


> What do you guys put down on the ground to keep your wood up ()?  I use pressure treated 4x4 but I am looking for something a little more "open" and breathable.  I was just thinking of mice and rodents.  I don't want to be building houses for them.



We go for very low cost. We simply cut saplings in the woods or if we cut a tree with a fairly straight limb, that is what we use to stack the wood on. It works and you can use them for several years but then before they go bad, cut them for firewood and replace with more saplings. Much better than stumbling over pallets or stepping on them and breaking through. Besides, I really don't like the looks of most pallets.


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## RORY12553 (Mar 10, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> Math can be difficult so we'll walk through this together: 10 cord in 20 hours = .5 cords per hour, not 2.
> 
> Depending on species (Doug Fir, Adler, bigleaf maple) I'm quite capable of a cord per hour.



Does that include felling time? Time to drag it out of the woods? Time loading and unloading? Stacking? I would say I'm quick splitting once its all in one spot but its the pre-splitting work that takes a lot of time.


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## Backwoods Savage (Mar 10, 2014)

Rory, what is pre-splitting?

Also keep in mind that some split right where the tree falls. Not many will drag a log out of the woods either.


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## 8686 (Mar 10, 2014)

Tom Wallace said:


> I'm not sure what you mean by "involving your legs". I stand with my feet wide apart and square to the wood. I use a tire on top of a stump. If the blade skips through the wood short, it usually hits the tire and stops. Sometimes it gets deflected to the side. I've ordered steel toe boots to help deal with those situations. So far I've not come close to hitting a foot.
> 
> For tires, I'd call tire shops in your area and ask if you can have a tire they're throwing out. Or just show up at one if they're nearby. I asked Costco and they told me I couldn't have one. Discount Tire said I could take one from their storage box outside the store, but wanted me to come by at night when they're closed. The manager said "it's a big no no for people to be in there during the day". Not really sure why, but I showed up after they closed and got a nice 19" low profile tire, works great. He said they don't lock the storage unit that holds the tires. So if you have a Discount Tire near you, you may be able to just show up at night and grab a tire.
> 
> ...


Well, if you stand upright holding the maul over your head and bring it down keeping your legs straight and not bending over, this brings the maul right in line with your toe (when you miss and its deflected off the side) Happened to me. There is a youtube video where the guy is doing this. Terrible tech.  But i was also using a maul from home depot that was a good 4 inches shorter than the x27. 

Now when i swing i make sure to bend over and bend slightly at the knees. When the maul hits the wood the entire handle is level. Not sure if my technique is correct and efficient. I am prob using more energy than i should be. Once my muscles get use to this i will refine my technique. My way is safe for now though. Before i bought may house last august i never swung a maul before. And never ever thought about firewood. Before


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## Backwoods Savage (Mar 10, 2014)

You sound as if you are doing fine 8686. I'm amazed that this is the first time anyone has mentioned bending at the knees. I thought everyone did it this way but evidently not. 

As for hitting a foot or toe with an axe. That too has always amazed me reading about this on hearth.com. Don't think I've ever known anyone to do this and I certainly never even came close to chopping my foot. Perhaps this is something that only those who use a chopping block experience. I do not like using a chopping block at all and simply put the log on the ground. Most old timers I know always did it this way and the first time I saw anyone use a block was in the movies. I laughed....


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## Bigg_Redd (Mar 10, 2014)

RORY12553 said:


> Does that include felling time? Time to drag it out of the woods? Time loading and unloading? Stacking? I would say I'm quick splitting once its all in one spot but its the pre-splitting work that takes a lot of time.



I'm talking about turning a pile of rounds into cords of split wood with my ax.  If I were talking about felling, limbing, yarding and bucking, well then I'd be talking about felling, limbing, yarding, and bucking, not splitting.


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## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Mar 10, 2014)

Keep the axe down the center and the toes to the left and right, all will be ok....


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## Driver (Mar 10, 2014)

8686 said:


> What do you guys put down on the ground to keep your wood up ()?  I use pressure treated 4x4 but I am looking for something a little more "open" and breathable.  I was just thinking of mice and rodents.  I don't want to be building houses for them.


I use wooden 48"x48" pallets to stack on, works pretty well. I have an unlimited supply of free skids from the trucking co. I work for so no cost involved. They have to pay to get rid of them so it's a win win.


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## farmboy05 (Mar 10, 2014)

I've been splitting using a 'shooting position' where I have one foot ahead of the other.  But tried going more square and like that more. But I also just broke my brand new cheepo 8lb maul w/ a wooden handle.  Split the handle under the head. Didn't even overswing and it was on its 7th-ish round! So I just ordered an x27 off of Amazon...


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## Wood Duck (Mar 10, 2014)

I think for most guys a hydraulic splitter is not necessary. I don't have one and I have split about 25 cords of firewood in the past four years. My firewood includes small trees and rounds as large as 40 inches. You can split almost anything by hand if you really want to.


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## 8686 (Mar 11, 2014)

I found the blade on the x27 is fairly soft.  Have a few flat spots on it.  I have not hit the ground or anything other than wood.  Fiskars sells a sharpener on amazon too for like $10.


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## 8686 (Mar 11, 2014)

I wonder where to get pallets from.  I've seen those thick blue ones.  They seem very heavy duty.  Every place I can think of would recycle them and not toss them.


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## farmboy05 (Mar 11, 2014)

8686 said:


> I wonder where to get pallets from.  I've seen those thick blue ones.  They seem very heavy duty.  Every place I can think of would recycle them and not toss them.



Try manufacturing places. They usually have a large dumpster where they throw wood and pallets, but the pallets might be broken so it would take some sorting.


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## BrotherBart (Mar 11, 2014)

I can't remember what they are called but the blue ones are expensive and reused over and over. Our ACE Hardware store always has a ton of regular pallets and welcomes somebody hauling some off since they have to pay for disposal of them.


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## KD0AXS (Mar 11, 2014)

If you want pallets, check the free section on Craigslist. There's always people looking to get rid of pallets, at least around here anyway. 

Pallets are an odd commodity. We get lots of them at my work from deliveries we make. To some places they're like gold and they'll gladly take as many as we can give them. Other places want nothing to do with them and will do anything to get rid of the ones they have laying around. (That's where the ads on Craigslist for free pallets come in)


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## bigbarf48 (Mar 11, 2014)

Schools also have lots of pallets. Or anywhere with a cafeteria


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## 8686 (Mar 11, 2014)

uh oh, my neuroses is kicking in again.  I would be hesitant to bring pallets home from a place that processes food.  I wouldn't want to be bringing any egg larvae (roaches) into the yard.  Whether or not they would take up residency in my yard.......maybe I'll just spray the pallets with insecticide,

I like the idea of using the pallets since laying a bunch of them in a row makes it easy to measure out a cord.


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## blazincajun (Mar 11, 2014)

I better like splitting by hand - that is the only way I can get it done. My lady likes the disfigurement it causes me.


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## Sinngetreu (Mar 11, 2014)

Speaking of bending at the knees, I saw this video and tried it. It actually worked well for me. It kept my back from hurting and added power to my swing. I was able to bust though some pretty gnarly wood.


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## 8686 (Mar 12, 2014)

Sinngetreu said:


> Speaking of bending at the knees, I saw this video and tried it. It actually worked well for me. It kept my back from hurting and added power to my swing. I was able to bust though some pretty gnarly wood.



Yes this is similar to how I do it.  My whole body goes down with the maul.  I don't know which is worse, squats or bending over

This is the video that should be taken down.  This technique is bound to help people lose their toes.


Plus his chopping block is very high.


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## Backwoods Savage (Mar 12, 2014)

Sinngetreu said:


> Speaking of bending at the knees, I saw this video and tried it. It actually worked well for me. It kept my back from hurting and added power to my swing. I was able to bust though some pretty gnarly wood.




And all this time I figured this is how most everyone did it....


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## Sinngetreu (Mar 12, 2014)

8686 said:


> Yes this is similar to how I do it.  My whole body goes down with the maul.  I don't know which is worse, squats or bending over
> 
> This is the video that should be taken down.  This technique is bound to help people lose their toes.
> 
> ...





Holy Smokes there is a lot of problems with this video. Apparently there are as many misconceptions about splitting as there is about seasoning wood. I love how its time to split because its time to burn. 
That reminds me of a phone conversation I had this week with a guy that I cut with. I told him about my Mulberry tree and his response was about like some about Tree of Heaven. Then he told me that I better hurry up and burn my Ash wood because it will be too dry after next burning season. Also, Pine is bad.  
Its so hard to bite my tongue.


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## Sinngetreu (Mar 12, 2014)

8686 said:


> I don't know which is worse, squats or bending over



When I first stated doing this, my legs hurt soooo bad. I'm finally used to it, but man do you use some hidden muscles.


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## jatoxico (Mar 12, 2014)

Backwoods Savage said:


> And all this time I figured this is how most everyone did it....


I agree, yet I consistently hear people say they need a longer splitting ax because that way they can't hit their feet. You can swing a hatchet and never come close to hitting yourself as long as the head does not get below your hand. Bending at the knees maintains good position and adds power (head speed) to the stroke. I'll get down from my soapbox now.


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## northwinds (Mar 13, 2014)

Just saw this thread.  It takes me a lot longer to split a cord than Big Redd, but I take my time.  Listen to the game on the radio.  Sit on the stump and look out over the hillside.  Plus, I'm not done until I've had a beer on  a big round.


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## smokedragon (Mar 14, 2014)

phaywood said:


> .....
> 
> So I'm wondering how big of rounds I can expect to split by hand.  Most of those today were only 8-10" at the largest.  I'll also invest in a new axe; everyone here seems to rave about the Fiskar X27.  Should I get anything else?  A Maul? Wedges?  I'm just excited that it actually worked.



I have split as big as 28".  That is so big you have to roll it (cause you can't pick it up).  IF it is straight grained, the size of the tree doesn't matter for splitting.

I got the X27 as a Christmas present.  I have been splitting all my life by hand, and I will NEVER be without it again.  I can split twice as long as I did with my maul without getting tired, and it takes the same number of swings as with the maul. 

That being said, I have an 8lb maul, and it does work better on the really stringy stuff.  

If my Fiskars sticks a lot, I break out the maul.  The maul will not stick, it will either bounce off, or it will blow through.

With nice straight grained wood, I can split faster than a hydraulic.  But the first time you get a really knotty, or really stringy tree.......the guy with the hydro will be laughing at you while you curse every piece you pull down to split.

As for wedges.....They are for the really awful stuff.  If you have a very abundant wood supply, don't buy wedges.  If you can't split it, throw it back in thew woods and let it feed the bugs and worms.  If you need every piece of wood you get, then good luck......wedges and a sledgehammer will work you to death.

My $0.02


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## 8686 (Mar 18, 2014)

smokedragon said:


> I have split as big as 28".  That is so big you have to roll it (cause you can't pick it up).  IF it is straight grained, the size of the tree doesn't matter for splitting.
> 
> I got the X27 as a Christmas present.  I have been splitting all my life by hand, and I will NEVER be without it again.  I can split twice as long as I did with my maul without getting tired, and it takes the same number of swings as with the maul.
> 
> ...


Yeah, it's the logs that have knots that give you the problems.  For me, it's tough on the back.  Bending over to put the log on the block, bending over every time they split and fall off, ect.  I have to get a tire.


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## Rebelduckman (Mar 18, 2014)

farmboy05 said:


> I've been splitting using a 'shooting position' where I have one foot ahead of the other.  But tried going more square and like that more. But I also just broke my brand new cheepo 8lb maul w/ a wooden handle.  Split the handle under the head. Didn't even overswing and it was on its 7th-ish round! So I just ordered an x27 off of Amazon...



I love mine! Had it for a week. Bought from amazon too. I haven't split anything but straight grain stuff so far and it's effortless. I was really amazed, still am. You won't regret it, it performs as advertised. Very well made too and lifetime warranty


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## Rebelduckman (Mar 18, 2014)

smokedragon said:


> I have split as big as 28".  That is so big you have to roll it (cause you can't pick it up).  IF it is straight grained, the size of the tree doesn't matter for splitting.
> 
> I got the X27 as a Christmas present.  I have been splitting all my life by hand, and I will NEVER be without it again.  I can split twice as long as I did with my maul without getting tired, and it takes the same number of swings as with the maul.
> 
> ...



+1


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## blazincajun (Mar 20, 2014)

Sinngetreu said:


> Speaking of bending at the knees, I saw this video and tried it. It actually worked well for me. It kept my back from hurting and added power to my swing. I was able to bust though some pretty gnarly wood.


 

Loved the video - great pointers. Telling it like it is.


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## tsquini (Mar 21, 2014)

For me, chopping wood is knowing which rounds to spend energy on. 1/4 of the rounds have knots and twists  in the grain which slow me down. I put them to the side and keep moving and finish them off with a splitter at the end.


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## bob burke (Mar 21, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> How much splitting are you doing?  I split a lot of wood (10+ cord per year) and by my gorilla math I split 20-25 hours per year which is nowhere near enough to effect my waistline.


Depends on how the wood happened to show up in your yard!  I've been cutting/hauling/splitting 10 cord/year for an eternity.  I may have to buy a power splitter, as my joints are getting a little old.

I've driven through a few logs, and hit the ground a few too many times.  My left elbow is giving me a lot of trouble now.

I like the speed at which hand splitting gets the job done, but I might have to break down, and go the 'old person's' route in the future.


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## bob burke (Mar 21, 2014)

BEConklin said:


> I tried the old car tire on the ground trick for the first time today. I took down an ash in the yard - maybe 15" DBH - and split the rounds right inside the tire. Of course it's ash so it was easy splitting for the most part - but that tire made the job a whole lot easier. Bout the hardest part was yanking the splits from the biggest rounds out of the tire when I was done.
> Gotta get a piece of plywood for underneath it too - that Fiskars goes right through and keeps on going - tire or no tire.


Interesting idea.  I've seen a great 'invention' in a video.

Take a light gauge chain, and use a bungee cord to connect the two ends around the base of your log.  The bungee makes the chain adjustable, to fit any diameter log.

Then just split away.  None of the chunks fall away from the log, and when you're done, simply open the chain.  I keep saying I'm going to make one, but I still go back to splitting/chasing/bending.

Although, I do use a pulp hook for handling all my wood...split and unsplit.  I HIGHLY recommend it.


http://www.amazon.com/Peavey-T-000-000-0606-Pulp-Hook/dp/B005J511RC


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## BoiledOver (Mar 21, 2014)

First and most important to me is to split in cold temperatures, fifteen degrees F, and less if possible. The red oak logs I get in are 8 foot and a couple or so inches long. They are harvested in November or December and I get them in late January. So they are not soaking wet but have enough moisture to get cold hard and mostly split like a dream. I buck em 19-20 inches. I see no need for a block or stump. If it is a large round, I stand it on end and work the edges first, with the smaller stuff laying flat on the ground is good.

I used to have a block but the lifting was the worse part of the whole thing. Fugetaboutit. Wedges, nope, used to but that was just extra work too. Finished a 10 cord load last week without lifting one piece up on a block and have just 4 pieces laying there from crotches. Whittled what I could off of em and will burn em in a campfire.

The stuff ya have to wrestle with in warm temps will explode at 10 degrees F. Knots, burls and bent stuff.

And I have a question. Why would someone want to split their foot?


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## Tom Wallace (Mar 21, 2014)

I wish I could get some frozen red oak here. I've been beating up some plum wood for the last few weeks. I think I'm steering clear of fruit wood in the future. Too twisted, too many crotches, pain to split. Not much oak in this region. Douglas fir might be the best option. It's relatively easy to split, the trunk to branch ratio is fantastic, no crotch pieces and for a softwood, it produces a lot of BTUs. Recently I had to use a chainsaw to carve notches into some of the plum pieces just so I could insert a wedge and pound it through. So many bent pieces, this stuff is torture to split.


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## jaychino415 (Mar 22, 2014)

8686 said:


> I wonder where to get pallets from.  I've seen those thick blue ones.  They seem very heavy duty.  Every place I can think of would recycle them and not toss them.


Exactly what BB said Those blue pallets are own by a company and are re used throughout the nation. At wally mart I saw black plastic pallets those look awesome.


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## bob burke (Mar 22, 2014)

I also find that frozen wood splits easier.  Check out this video:


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## BEConklin (Mar 22, 2014)

bob burke said:


> Interesting idea.  I've seen a great 'invention' in a video.
> 
> Take a light gauge chain, and use a bungee cord to connect the two ends around the base of your log.  The bungee makes the chain adjustable, to fit any diameter log.
> 
> ...



I've seen that chain trick online as well - but I worry about striking the chain. The edge on a Fiskars is sharp but soft....even a light gauge chain could really mess it up.


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## BEConklin (Mar 22, 2014)

jaychino415 said:


> Exactly what BB said Those blue pallets are own by a company and are re used throughout the nation. At wally mart I saw black plastic pallets those look awesome.



I have a neighbor thats busts up old shipping containers for recycling. He's given me 6 of those black plastic pallets so far. They're much better than wooden pallets but they'd be even more useful to me if I had more level ground for stacking.....put thm on uneven ground and they bend under the weight..level the four corners and they sag in the middle.


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## Backwoods Savage (Mar 23, 2014)

BoiledOver said:


> First and most important to me is to split in cold temperatures, fifteen degrees F, and less if possible. The red oak logs I get in are 8 foot and a couple or so inches long. They are harvested in November or December and I get them in late January. So they are not soaking wet but have enough moisture to get cold hard and mostly split like a dream. I buck em 19-20 inches. I see no need for a block or stump. If it is a large round, I stand it on end and work the edges first, with the smaller stuff laying flat on the ground is good.
> 
> *I used to have a block but the lifting was the worse part of the whole thing.* Fugetaboutit. Wedges, nope, used to but that was just extra work too. Finished a 10 cord load last week without lifting one piece up on a block and have just 4 pieces laying there from crotches. Whittled what I could off of em and will burn em in a campfire.
> 
> ...



I couldn't agree more about the block and lifting each piece up onto it. Wasted energy for sure. But what is this about splitting a foot?


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## privatejoker75 (Mar 23, 2014)

I burn mostly pine and fir here and if dry/mostly knot free i can split 18" rounds with just my maul.  Anything bigger and i can sometimes split it after a few maul hits if not i have a few big wedges


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## 8686 (Mar 24, 2014)

That's a great video with the chain and all.  Yes, I would be worried about hitting the chain with an x27.  That metal is too soft.  #2, what type of wood splits that easy???  He is not even lifting the maul that high.  He is swinging it like a hammer.  Are my oak trees on the east coast much harder or something?  I need to whale at mine.  We're talking holding it high above your head, pause, and bring it down hard.


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## bob burke (Mar 24, 2014)

It looked like he was splitting some pretty clear oak.  Ash is the same...splits without any effort.  Every species (for the most part...elm excluded if you can still find it) has the sections with no knots, and splits rather easily.  I use a maul, so I'm not worried about hitting the chain...especially since I hit in the middle of the log most of the time.  I think the chain is only to make the bungee adjustable, so you could use a bigger bungee, with a much smaller section of chain.

I'm definitely going to use that method next year.


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## privatejoker75 (Mar 24, 2014)

Dry wood, aim between the knots and most wood should split fairly easily.  I have some wet pine that I tried to split the other day and it was like hitting a block of steel with my maul


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## 8686 (Mar 24, 2014)

yeah.  Not fun when you swing hard and the maul just bounces right off the wood.  Then other times it just chips the wood and the maul goes flying off to the left and in the dirt.  Or the other option, you over-compensate and it goes right through and the two ends fly off like dynamite into the neighbors lawn.


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## HybridFyre (Mar 24, 2014)

Sinngetreu said:


> Speaking of bending at the knees, I saw this video and tried it. It actually worked well for me. It kept my back from hurting and added power to my swing. I was able to bust though some pretty gnarly wood.




Thanks for posting this. I was apparently one of the 'jabroni's' that was doing the over shoulder neanderthal swing. I was flying through splits that way but my body paid for it later. This is much better on the back and my knees.


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## BEConklin (Mar 24, 2014)

8686 said:


> That's a great video with the chain and all.  Yes, I would be worried about hitting the chain with an x27.  That metal is too soft.  #2, what type of wood splits that easy???  He is not even lifting the maul that high.  He is swinging it like a hammer.  Are my oak trees on the east coast much harder or something?  I need to whale at mine.  We're talking holding it high above your head, pause, and bring it down hard.



Red oak splits very easily for the most part. Gets tougher with branches involved - as does any wood. 

Maybe you're used to dealing with wood that grew in the open. Forest trees often have tall trunks with little or no branches all the way up until the tree nears the canopy. Lots of easy splitting on them.


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## 8686 (Apr 3, 2014)

Yesterday I took huge swings at one log and it just bounced right off the top like I was hitting it with a rubber mallet!  Then I underswung and the x27 went right into the dirt and clean through a rock about 4 inches in diameter!  I just ordered the fiskars sharpener off Amazon.  My blade is now shot.


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## BEConklin (Apr 3, 2014)

I picked up one of those Fiskars sharpeners - it's just as well they're so inexpensive. It will sharpen the X27 a bit but only after I've restored the edge with a mill bastard file. If you try to hone anything more than the tiniest of knicks with that gadget you'll be at it all day.

On the other hand it works pretty well on some of my kitchen knives so it's nice to have around IMO.


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## smokedragon (Apr 4, 2014)

BEConklin said:


> I picked up one of those Fiskars sharpeners


+1 to your idea.  If you get the knicks out with a file, that thing gets it back to razor sharp.

I use a splitting stump for smaller stuff that is straight grained, as it keeps me from aerating my yard as bad, and it saves my X27 edge.

I can't understand why anyone would use a splitting stump for large rounds........


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## 8686 (Apr 25, 2014)

Check this out:http://www.vipukirves.fi/english/

BTW, returned that POS fiskars sharpener.  It's way to narrow to fit the x27.  And was very awkward to use.  Picked up the true temper axe sharpener from Lowes.  WOW, what a difference.  This thing cuts!


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## gerry100 (Apr 25, 2014)

BEConklin said:


> I tried the old car tire on the ground trick for the first time today. I took down an ash in the yard - maybe 15" DBH - and split the rounds right inside the tire. Of course it's ash so it was easy splitting for the most part - but that tire made the job a whole lot easier. Bout the hardest part was yanking the splits from the biggest rounds out of the tire when I was done.
> Gotta get a piece of plywood for underneath it too - that Fiskars goes right through and keeps on going - tire or no tire.





Bigg_Redd said:


> Rilly?  It's truly not some amazing achievement.   How long does it take you to split a cord?



Must have a maul in each hand


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## BoiledOver (Apr 25, 2014)

Backwoods Savage said:


> I couldn't agree more about the block and lifting each piece up onto it. Wasted energy for sure. But what is this about splitting a foot?


 Earlier in this thread someone made mention of foot injury. Post #45 I believe.


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## 8686 (Apr 26, 2014)

Yeah that was me. First time splittin wood. Lifted the maul and swung without bending or leaning over. Maul went right into my big toe.


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## smokedragon (Apr 29, 2014)

8686 said:


> Maul went right into my big toe.


Man, you must be a very stiff person.........I just can't thing of anyone who doesn't bend SOMEWHERE when they swing like that.

Lesson I learned from a hatchet "incident" when I was a boy, always cut with your feet at least shoulder width apart


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## Woody Stover (Apr 29, 2014)

8686 said:


> This is the video that should be taken down.  This technique is bound to help people lose their toes. Plus his chopping block is very high.


Nothing like broadcasting on the internet that you have no clue. 


Backwoods Savage said:


> Rory, what is pre-splitting?


Splitting a big round so you can pick it up and get it to the splitter?





> Also keep in mind that some split right where the tree falls. Not many will drag a log out of the woods either.


In your sig pic, it doesn't look like you are splitting in the woods. The stuff I was working on last week was in the woods, and I had to drag dropped trunks out of the stickers to where I could buck 'em. I'm not talking about a few blackberry thorns, I'm talking Wild Rose thickets, where the fat, hook-shaped barbs will lacerate your arms 'til they are nothing but bloody stumps.  But I mostly buck in the woods and bring the rounds out in the quad trailer, seldom drag a log all the way out.


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## gerry100 (Jun 26, 2014)

Splitting by hand can be very efficient IF... one has an efficient and accurate swing. This takes many thousands of swings.

35 years ago when I started there was a lot of exertion,broken handles and extra swings. One also gets an "eye" for the round ( whoa) that leads you to strike it in the right spot. A few extra swings on a round mean nothing to me.

 I know that many don't have the time or conditioning to do this but don't give up on slitting too soon.


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## 8686 (Jun 26, 2014)

I agree.  getting your swing technique down takes time and practice to achieve that least amount of energy / maximum power balance.

Getting the "eye" is more learning than anything I feel.  I don't have the eye yet.  What I think looks easy to split I under-power my swings and what looks hard to split I over-compensate and over power the cut, often launching the wood several feet.  I am dealing with very knotty oak too.


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## privatejoker75 (Jun 26, 2014)

I usually only have pine/doug fir here which isn't that bad as far as eyes go.  I just spin it around so the eyes are on the sides and it usually splits in one maul swing.


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## Bigg_Redd (Jun 27, 2014)

privatejoker75 said:


> I usually only have pine/doug fir here



Which is what God intended when he invented firewood


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## Mettlemickey (Jul 8, 2014)

8686 said:


> Yes this is similar to how I do it.  My whole body goes down with the maul.  I don't know which is worse, squats or bending over
> 
> This is the video that should be taken down.  This technique is bound to help people lose their toes.
> 
> ...



Hi, im pretty new to all this. Wondered if i could ask some dumb newbie questions?

Why is the second video dangerous, it doesnt look that much different to the technique in the first one? What am i missing?

Would really appreciate the advice i have quite a lot of splitting to do and want to keep all my toes!

Thanks
JC


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## Shawn Curry (Jul 9, 2014)

I think the poster was mostly taking issue with his stance in the video.  His feet are too close together and he's not bending at the knees enough during the stroke.  This causes you to use your back more than you need to, and if the maul were to deflect off, there is a risk of following through right into your foot.  However, I personally think the guy in the other video had his legs spread too far.  I also prefer a higher splitting stump, because I'm 6'3".  I like it high enough so the handle of the axe is horizontally level when the head is making contact with the piece I'm splitting.

One thing that rarely gets mentioned, but is probably THE most important labor-saver, is a sharp axe.  You can have perfect technique, but still work twice as hard as you need to if your axe isn't sharp.

"Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe." - Abraham Lincoln.


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## northwinds (Jul 9, 2014)

Shawn Curry said:


> "Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe." - Abraham Lincoln.



That's why I like my yellow maul.  No need to sharpen for past six years. Old Abe will be sharpening that axe when I'm back in the house enjoying a beer after splitting.


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## Mettlemickey (Jul 9, 2014)

Thanks guys, I use a maul too, just because someone recommended it.

I always try and keep my legs apart having watched some videos on You Tube before my first splitting session. I suspect im also keeping my legs too far apart, as im paranoid about catching my leg if i accidentally follow through! 

The knee bending is something i wasnt aware of though so will give it a try next time.

Any other tips?

Jason


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## Brewmonster (Jul 9, 2014)

Why does everyone start out by saying, "Don't make a big roundhouse swing"? I do that all the time and I'm sure I get a lot more power that way than by just raising the maul overhead and swinging straight down. That slingshot action gets it moving much faster.
Thanks, youtube, for letting me know I've been doing everything wrong my whole life!


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## laxin213 (Oct 16, 2014)

My technique is a lot closer to the one shown in this video. Thoughts? I used to use a 6lb splitting maul, but I'm using the X27 and I really like it...


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## farmboy05 (Oct 16, 2014)

laxin213 said:


> My technique is a lot closer to the one shown in this video. Thoughts? I used to use a 6lb splitting maul, but I'm using the X27 and I really like it...



I haven't tried it that way.  But I might have to give it a shot. He's squared up though which is probably the important part so you don't go losing toes. 

But I am jealous of his stash.


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## Craig S. (Oct 16, 2014)

laxin213 said:


> My technique is a lot closer to the one shown in this video. Thoughts? I used to use a 6lb splitting maul, but I'm using the X27 and I really like it...




Gloves are a good idea too.


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## laxin213 (Oct 16, 2014)

Craig S. said:


> Gloves are a good idea too.



Yes:
-gloves
-steel toe boots
-eyewear

I always try to end the swing driving straight into the piece and not pulling towards me, to save from injury. I tend to be the most focused on that. I might even have my wife video me swinging, its really go me thinking how my backswing looks...


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## Danno77 (Oct 16, 2014)

when I'm splitting large rounds, they sit on the ground. When I'm just messing around, I take the other rounds and place them on a large one. When I'm splitting wood in the timber on a tree less than 20" I stand the piece up if I can and split it. Then I split everything else where it lies. If you wanna talk about a way to lose toes, then find my youtube video where I try to demonstrate this. It was with some less than optimal wood and I was just messing around, but you get the idea.


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## Danno77 (Oct 16, 2014)

SO, I was doing a lot of reaching down to adjust pieces for the camera, but with the 8lb I'd just split away without bending over much at all. There was some original Fiskars action in there. I have the longer fiskars these days, I like it a little better than the older short one, but a 6lb or 8lb maul is pretty much all I split with.


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## gerry100 (Oct 16, 2014)

Its like a golf swing - all about club head speed and specific angle/point of contact. You get consistency there you're long..

Many think a roundhouse gives them good head speed but consistency (for me at least) is elusive. Another myth is that the more effort equals more effective splitting. I could probably out muscle most pro golfers but while they're happy if their fade lands in the right place I'm happy if I can find my ball anywhere.

I spread my legs, raise the maul directly back overhead and using legs and hips start the arc down to the point of impact on the round.

Tips      Concentrate on "dropping" the maul on the round ( ie use gravity as much as you can)

             When your timing and aim is good, break your wrist just before impact to get a little more speed at contact.


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## BEConklin (Oct 16, 2014)

I'm with Gerry - the "roundhouse swing" is impressive looking - but I prefer the accuracy I get splitting wood the way Gerry describes....but with an X27 instead of a maul.


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## Frank625 (Oct 16, 2014)

Now that I have a splitter I don't like splitting by hand as much. I can go for bigger rounds and not worry how hard they will be to split. I was a monster maul guy but the hydraulic splitter allows me to put up much more wood because I still have energy to haul and stack. I just get more done. I put up 6 cord the past month.


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## BEConklin (Oct 16, 2014)

I have a power boat, but rowing my ultralight rowing skiff and my Adirondack guideboat is so much fun I never use the power boat. I'm hoping I'll get more use out of the hydraulic splitter I picked up recently...but the power boat has been sitting on a trailer in my yard for several years no while my rowing boats get lots of use...


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## BEConklin (Oct 16, 2014)

Jeeze Louise I'm getting old....my point, in the above post, is that splitting wood with an axe is still a lot of fun....not as quick perhaps....like rowing boats are not as quick as powerboats..but still a lotta fun.


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## 8686 (Oct 16, 2014)

my technique has evolved somewhat from when I started.  Now, I bring the x27 over my head and let it fall back behind my knees.  My hands are holding the handle behind my head, as if I'm about to do a sit-up.  In one motion, I bring my body vertically upward while I left the x27 above my head.  Then I bring my body down, crouching at the legs and the x27 swinging down onto the log.  My body from the waist up does not bend over, and I do not actually involve the arms that much as far as power is concerned.  My arms act as a lever in a whipping motion.  This has saved my back big time.  And the added range of motion gives the x27 some real power. All at the cost of perhaps looking a bit odd when you're doing it.


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## Shane Collins (Oct 16, 2014)

I do all my splitting by hand.  My father in law had to hydraulic splitters, pretty old ones but they work.  He gave me one as he didn't need two.  I used it for about 10 minutes to finish some uglies that I couldn't do with my axe's.  Maybe the splitter is old and not as good as the new ones or I don't have good technique but I find splitting by hand much faster.  I also enjoy it and find it good exercise.

How small do you all go with splitting?  I find it can be fun splitting the 2-3 inchers with the fiskars.  Target pratice!  Most of the time I split anything 3 inches and over.


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## Mettlemickey (Oct 16, 2014)

So, I'm thinking of getting the fabled x27. Its clearly the axe to have. But ive seen mixed reviews about different versions. Is this the right one? Also people are saying in reviews its ineffective if not Sharpe. Shouldn't it be Sharpe when you buy it? Should I buy the sharpener too?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fiskars-788...984&sr=8-1&keywords=fiskars+x27+splitting+axe


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## Shane Collins (Oct 16, 2014)

Wow, they're expensive in the UK.  I'm from England but living in the US now.  I got mine on amazon, not sure what the shipping to you would be but try doing it on amazon.com

http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-7884-...F8&qid=1413495188&sr=8-1&keywords=fiskars+x27

Thats the one I have and as it has almost 2,000 reviews I assume it's the version most people have.  All I know is mine is the x27 and it cost about 45 dollars. The one I linked is 48 dollars, thats about 28 quid.  Much cheaper than the one you linked.  Even if you gota spend 20 for shipping you'll be saving.  When I used to live in England I found myself often buying stuff from the amazon.com and having it shipped over.

When I bought mine it was very sharp.  Mine is still very sharp but it's a little rough.  Just give it a little tune up every now and then.  I've only gave mine a quick sharpen once.  I think it's a great axe.  I only have three axes, most people here have many more than that.  I have a gransfors bruks large splitting axe which I love but find the handle a little short.  A cheap 6lb maul and the fiskars.  The fiskarks gets used 95% of the time.  Like I said, I've not used many different axes but I love the fiskars and would highly recommend it.


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## Mettlemickey (Oct 16, 2014)

Cheers Shane, I might do as you say. Think ill check out good old B&Q as well and see how much they want. I saw one site selling it for £42 and thought it was that much less it looked a bit suss, could be bang on from what you say though.


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## farmboy05 (Oct 16, 2014)

Mettlemickey said:


> So, I'm thinking of getting the fabled x27. Its clearly the axe to have. But ive seen mixed reviews about different versions. Is this the right one? Also people are saying in reviews its ineffective if not Sharpe. Shouldn't it be Sharpe when you buy it? Should I buy the sharpener too?
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fiskars-788...984&sr=8-1&keywords=fiskars+x27+splitting+axe


They keep the cost down by using softer steel. It comes very sharp but you'll have to give it a quick sharpen now and then.


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## Scooter422 (Oct 16, 2014)

Split all mine with the x27. Take the tire and wedge it over your chopping block. Should be better than chopping on the ground  Get an extra tire for those longer rounds and throw it on top of the other. Works great. If the tire is tight just trim with your saw and make it fit.


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## Pennsyltucky Chris (Oct 16, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> Rilly?  It's truly not some amazing achievement.   How long does it take you to split a cord?



For me, 4 hours. And I'm still relatively young and in good shape. But I'm splitting Red/White Oak, Beech, and other hardwoods. The type of wood makes a big difference. Pine splits if you look at it mean.


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## bob burke (Oct 18, 2014)

laxin213 said:


> My technique is a lot closer to the one shown in this video. Thoughts? I used to use a 6lb splitting maul, but I'm using the X27 and I really like it...



Everyone is different.  My elbows cannot handle splitting 10 cords/year anymore, so I just purchased a 28 ton splitter.  That said, I always preferred a heavier maul, and when it stuck in the log, I would hit it with the sledge.  That's the reason for using a maul in the first place.


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## Bigg_Redd (Oct 18, 2014)

bob burke said:


> . . .and when it stuck in the log, I would hit it with the sledge.  That's the reason for using a maul in the first place.



This is not a safe practice.  It's tantamount to creating shrapnel.


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## bob burke (Oct 18, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> This is not a safe practice.  It's tantamount to creating shrapnel.


So they say.  It isn't all that much different than using the hamme/wedge that he showed in the video.  Over time, you definitely get some mushrooming on the top of the maul or wedge.  I simply put the edges on a grinder, and clean them up.

I've been doing it for over 30 years, and never had an issue.  And.....the older I got, the smarter I got.  I stopped having to slam the maul with the sledge as much as when I was young and crazy.  I developed little tricks for splitting those crazy maple butts with the spiral grain.  I honestly haven't had to grind a maul in decades.  Maybe my hammer is softer steel, because I'm starting to see a little mushroom form.  I've never ground that yet.


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## midwestcoast (Oct 18, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> This is not a safe practice.  It's tantamount to creating shrapnel.


Doesn't it depend If the maul is made of hardened steel or not?
If the maul isn't hardened I thought it was fine. The eye can still get deformed & make the head loose though. Also not good.


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## TradEddie (Oct 19, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> This is not a safe practice.  It's tantamount to creating shrapnel.



Why then then do they make the back of the maul that shape?

(This is meant as a genuine question, not a sarcastic comment)

TE


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## Bigg_Redd (Oct 19, 2014)

TradEddie said:


> Why then then do they make the back of the maul that shape?
> 
> (This is meant as a genuine question, not a sarcastic comment)
> 
> TE



Two guesses

1) It has to be shaped in one shape or another and to achieve the proper balance I'm guessing that shape is the least cumbersome

2) To be used as a sledge in a pinch


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## bob burke (Oct 20, 2014)

Again Redd....your position is the same as the manufacturers, I believe.  I think they employ CYA terminology in the directions.  But....the maul is designed to be used the way I stated.  I just looked at mine, and after 20 plus years of using this one, there is no mushrooming whatsoever.  The sledge has slight expansion, but not enough to even grind off yet.  After at least 100 cords of wood.  I view these tools as any other....they might require basic maintenance over the years.

I think another key is to use heavier mauls and hammers.  You don't have to hit as hard.

Again...what's the difference between hitting a wedge, and hitting a maul?


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## laxin213 (Oct 20, 2014)

bob burke said:


> Again Redd....your position is the same as the manufacturers, I believe.  I think they employ CYA terminology in the directions.  But....the maul is designed to be used the way I stated.  I just looked at mine, and after 20 plus years of using this one, there is no mushrooming whatsoever.  The sledge has slight expansion, but not enough to even grind off yet.  After at least 100 cords of wood.  I view these tools as any other....they might require basic maintenance over the years.
> 
> I think another key is to use heavier mauls and hammers.  You don't have to hit as hard.
> 
> Again...what's the difference between hitting a wedge, and hitting a maul?



I'm guessing  the metals themselves have to be hardened differently. I wedge is hardened to be hit by metal and a maul is hardened steel to take and hold an edge? 

Not sarcastic - just my thoughts.


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## farmboy05 (Oct 20, 2014)

I'm thinking that the wedge is softer so that when you hit it, it'll deform a little to absorb some of the impact instead of breaking and sending pieces flying.


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## Bigg_Redd (Oct 20, 2014)

bob burke said:


> after 20 plus years of using this one, there is no mushrooming whatsoever.



Splitting wedges mushroom with routine use.  It's by design.  Sledges are not designed to mushroom.  At all.  



bob burke said:


> Again...what's the difference between hitting a wedge, and hitting a maul?



The steal in a maul is much harder than the steal in a splitting wedge, and when it does give way it will do so catastrophically and without warning,


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## Danno77 (Oct 20, 2014)

I had some crap that was a bear to split with my maul, so I got a sledge and some flat splitting wedges. It didn't make it any easier. Then I got these dealies:





and guess what? Still didn't split any easier. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but there is really very little I can't split with my maul. Those things that I used the wedges on may have taken a full swing or two fewer, but I had to get them safely started, so the payoff was minimal.


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## bob burke (Oct 20, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> Splitting wedges mushroom with routine use.  It's by design.  Sledges are not designed to mushroom.  At all.


  And that's what I thought you meant by 'shrapnel'.  Severely mushroomed wedges can have those edges fly off if you hit wrong.





> The steal in a maul is much harder than the steal in a splitting wedge, and when it does give way it will do so catastrophically and without warning,


 In over 30 years of using mauls/hammers, I have NEVER had a chunk of steel fly off of my mauls.

Is the claim that sledges should never be used to hit steel?


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## Bigg_Redd (Oct 20, 2014)

bob burke said:


> n over 30 years of using mauls/hammers, I have NEVER had a chunk of steel fly off of my mauls.



I drive around without a seat belt.  Often.  And I'm still not dead.  But after 20+ years I still do not recommend it to anyone.  



bob burke said:


> Is the claim that sledges should never be used to hit steel?



The "claim" is that different tools are made from different steal with different properties.  Wedges let you know when they need dressing.  Harder steal - like the steal found in mauls - gives no indication it's about to frag


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## bob burke (Oct 20, 2014)

Another reason I still insist that mauls are meant to be used with hammers.....when you get the maul stuck in a piece of wood, you can easily break the handle when you try to force it out.  I did that on my first maul when I was just learning about wood splitting.  I was told to hit it with a hammer when it gets stuck.  I guess this is all moot now, as my joints are now too old for splitting by hand.  I've got a hydraulic splitter.


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## bob burke (Oct 20, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> I drive around without a seat belt.  Often.  And I'm still not dead.  But after 20+ years I still do not recommend it to anyone.


  And just as we are warned against not using a seat belt, the manufacturer warns against using mauls/hammers.  Yet thousands still do it.  I'm not saying it's right or wrong.  I'm saying it's effective, and I've never had a problem.  





> The "claim" is that different tools are made from different steal with different properties.  Wedges let you know when they need dressing.  Harder steal - like the steal found in mauls - gives no indication it's about to frag


 Fair enough.  Just because I've never seen it, doesn't mean it can't happen.


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## smokedragon (Oct 23, 2014)

In most cases, I agree.  However, it really depends on what the maul is made of. 

If it is hardened steel (ie not meant to mushroom) you do run the risk of shrapnel.  

I have an old monster maul that I routinely swat with a sledge hammer, but it is a softer steel and has been touched up on the grinder many times because of some mushrooming.

I think a lot of this is lawyers saying that they have to put these warnings on products.  Like all new chainsaws saying you MUST engage the chain brake before starting. Never have, never will.  Also not gonna sue Stihl if I cut my leg off.

My $0.02


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## Danno77 (Oct 23, 2014)

I shower with a hair dryer and I have NEVER had a problem.


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## smokedragon (Oct 23, 2014)

Danno77 said:


> I shower with a hair dryer and I have NEVER had a problem.


And if you do, you won't sue the hair dryer manufacturer


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## Danno77 (Oct 23, 2014)

I might. It should say "Don't use in the shower. Seriously, it's a bad idea. We aren't just covering our butts."


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## bob burke (Oct 25, 2014)

I agree....I mentioned the CYA issue with the maul's instructions.  Kind of like spackle buckets.  Check out the required picture of a baby falling head first into a bucket, next time you're in Home Depot.  One idiot wins a lawsuit, and the next thing you know, there are new and creative methods of idiot proofing common products.

If your aim is so bad that you can't hit the center of your maul, then I suppose you might have an issue.  I've been employing the maul/hammer method for almost 40 years.  I guess I'm just lucky.


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## bob burke (Oct 25, 2014)

I'm even luckier now, as I bought a 27 ton splitter this year.


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## KenLockett (Oct 25, 2014)

CenterTree said:


> I hate splitting wood by hand.  I MUCH prefer using an axe.
> 
> 
> I find it easy to split quite FAST with my X27.   But the reality is it is getting to be too much for me lately.
> ...



Even with a hydraulic splitter, lifting or maneuvering the rounds onto or into place aggravates my tennis elbow.


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## lml999 (Oct 27, 2014)

privatejoker75 said:


> Dry wood, aim between the knots and most wood should split fairly easily.  I have some wet pine that I tried to split the other day and it was like hitting a block of steel with my maul



I hate pine.

Got a couple of cords in my back yard, cut but not split. I may resort to gnawing at it with my teeth.


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## lml999 (Oct 27, 2014)

laxin213 said:


> My technique is a lot closer to the one shown in this video. Thoughts? I used to use a 6lb splitting maul, but I'm using the X27 and I really like it...



I use that same technique, also with an X27.

However, if the wood I am splitting looked like his (all those nice cracks), I wouldn't be sore today.


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## lml999 (Oct 27, 2014)

Pennsyltucky Chris said:


> Pine splits if you look at it mean.



Would you do me a favor and facetime with my pine?

It's not splitting for me, whether I look at it mean or get on my knees and beg!


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## smokedragon (Oct 27, 2014)

lml999 said:


> I hate pine.
> 
> Got a couple of cords in my back yard, cut but not split. I may resort to gnawing at it with my teeth.


Funny you mention that.  Some pine splits real easy, other species are so knotty that they are nearly impossible (without hydraulics).  I tend to get a hold of the latter


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## lml999 (Oct 27, 2014)

smokedragon said:


> Funny you mention that.  Some pine splits real easy, other species are so knotty that they are nearly impossible (without hydraulics).  I tend to get a hold of the latter



This stuff is definitely naughty!


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## lml999 (Oct 27, 2014)

Danno77 said:


> I shower with a hair dryer and I have NEVER had a problem.



What's her name?


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## privatejoker75 (Oct 30, 2014)

lml999 said:


> I hate pine.
> 
> Got a couple of cords in my back yard, cut but not split. I may resort to gnawing at it with my teeth.



I have 40 acres of mostly ponderosa pine and douglas fir.  I love having living fir trees here, so i only cut down the pine.  I live in a national forest too so i pay $20 a year for permits and take the fir from public land


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## Elle (Nov 17, 2014)

I split with a maul and was using an 8# cause that is what my brother gave me, lol. I knew nothing. Got terrible shoulder tendinitis and went to a 6# maul. Have to say I think th 6er  is much better than the 8er. I thought more weight would be better but looks like more speed is better for splitting, at least for me. It's also much better on the shoulder. Interesting videos. I never think much about technique, I just do it. Guess from swinging a sledgehammer so much.


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## gerry100 (Nov 17, 2014)

Elle said:


> I split with a maul and was using an 8# cause that is what my brother gave me, lol. I knew nothing. Got terrible shoulder tendinitis and went to a 6# maul. Have to say I think th 6er  is much better than the 8er. I thought more weight would be better but looks like more speed is better for splitting, at least for me. It's also much better on the shoulder. Interesting videos. I never think much about technique, I just do it. Guess from swinging a sledgehammer so much.



When your shoulders get stronger and your swing gets smoother you'll be able to get the same head speed with an 8# and benefit from 33% more impact energy. Just take your time and enjoy the 6# for a while


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## gerry100 (Nov 17, 2014)

Elle - be aware that some online splitting videos are incompetent and verge on dangerous


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## Elle (Nov 17, 2014)

Gerry100,   yes thanks. I never even really thought about a technique or watching a video before this thread. Just seemed sort of natural to me. I'm sure my dad yelled at me enough when I was swinging the sledge so probablt en grained in me.  the one thing I did pick up was using a 6# maul and that was a big help. Good looking out!


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## Maul4life (Nov 21, 2014)

I was out at our local lake one night, watching a "Navy Seal" swing an axe to split up some wood for the fire.  After watching him almost take out his shins a few times, I decided that...seal or not...I needed to step in and say something.  I asked if he minded some advice, "no sir"...I showed him a few techniques...and he was more than happy to keep swinging.  And, I was more than happy to sit back and enjoy my beer...now that I knew we would not have to evac a Seal for an axe wound.  Whether or not this guy was really a seal, I may never know...but I do know he has some better technique.


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## russb (Nov 21, 2014)

I grew up splitting with an axe (whatever my Dad had lying around, mostly a double-edged). Now that I'm in my 30's and significantly stronger/heavier, I'm enjoying using splitting mauls. Mine is eight pounds, but I've used a monster maul plenty and like that one, too. I need to get back to my roots and pick up a nice sharp axe, and need to get myself a monster maul one of these days; I like switching things up while I'm out there. I just bought my kids a 2 1/4 pound axe from Tractor Supply, look forward to teaching them to swing properly without coming at their shins; my oldest has split lots of kindling with a hatchet, but he'll need some instruction and a close eye while he's swinging the axe. I'll let them whack away at the year-old straight-grained pine rounds I have sitting around. It'll be good once my oldest is strong enough to contribute significantly to the work. He's already a good stacker.

I also just reshafted my maul. It had a fiberglass handle, but in less than a year the epoxy broke up and the head came loose. I went with wood, but I'll keep the fiberglass handle in case I want to revert. Hoping my reshafting job holds up, it's my first time.

No roundhouse for me. just bring it straight up, bring it straight down...


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## valley ranch (Nov 23, 2014)

We, all four or us, gather the 4 cords we need, wifey, our two girls [13 and 17] and myself. I split wood with a mall for years when I was single. We have Fir and Pine on our land. Now I cut and buck, the girls and wifey split, winch it up to the deck and stack. We split more last year then we burned because we were at the lower ranch longer this year and burned less up here. 
I remember how it was splitting wood with a maul, in the 1970ies, I remember thinking anyone who used a snowblower was a sissy. Now I have a Tractor, snowblower and a splitter, Oh and a winch to lift wood to the deck. Wifey and the girls insist on carrying  the chainsaw up the hill for me so I don't get too tired. They tell me " you're grumpy when you get tired." There's three of them, no use arguing, I sit down and they bring me coffee, and they stack the wood. Some time they let me split with them taking turns operating the splitter or handling the rounds. But if they get the idea I'm doing too much they'll take over, no arguing or they'll say " you're already getting a bit grumpy." 
I was telling Uncle, saying " They won't let me go up the tree with my tree hooks to top them." but he says " quit complaining, you're the luckiest man on earth."

Well, anyway I use to split with a mall, now I use the splitter,,, when they let me.

Richard


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