# Mower deck cleaning



## smokinj (Jun 1, 2013)

How are you cleaning and maintaining your deck? (Lots of rain here this year so mowing every 4 days)


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## lukem (Jun 1, 2013)

Blow off with leaf blower on top.  Putty knife on bottom.  Not fun.  

I've heard good things about Fluid Film but have never tried it.


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## smokinj (Jun 1, 2013)

lukem said:


> Blow off with leaf blower on top. Putty knife on bottom. Not fun.
> 
> I've heard good things about Fluid Film but have never tried it.


 
That's what I have been doing...lol Its getting pretty sporty mowing all the time, and cleaning that deck.


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## NH_Wood (Jun 1, 2013)

Same here - I use compressed air to clean the top and scrape the underside of the deck. If possible, I tilt the front wheels about 6" off the ground and let it bake in the Sun for a day before I scrape the underside. Cheers!


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## bogydave (Jun 1, 2013)

Water fitting on top of the deck.
Crank it up & turn on the water 

Saw the new mowers at Lowes have this feature on them .
Power wash 

Do it right after mowing, should keep it from sticking

I might be drilling a hole & give it a go


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## PapaDave (Jun 1, 2013)

bogydave said:


> Water fitting on top of the deck.


Have one of the those.
Haven't used it in the 5 years I've owed it.


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## MasterMech (Jun 1, 2013)

Keep using those wash out ports....... Daddy needs a new truck!


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## wesessiah (Jun 1, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> Keep using those wash out ports....... Daddy needs a new truck!


interested to hear your take on them. i got in a discussion with a john deere employee, and his final words were "well, grass has moisture anyway, so if you don't use it, you're going to have moisture held in by grass you couldn't get!"


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## maple1 (Jun 1, 2013)

I pull out what grass piles up around the belts & pulleys with a piece of wire when it needs it, and grease the spindles once a year. Check tension when I do that, but haven't had to adjust the last couple years.

And I don't mow when it's wet.

That's it.

I'm with MasterMech on the wash port - seems to me running the blades with a hose hooked up will drive moisture into the bearings.


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## MasterMech (Jun 1, 2013)

Wash ports are a double-edged sword at best.  The problem isn't when the blades are running, it's when they stop.  The spindle assembly cools, creating a slight vacuum inside and unless your spindles have good double-lip seals in them, moisture will find its way in for sure.  Also many spindle units have a cup of some sort that is to protect the bearing seal from debris that wraps itself around the shaft.  These will get paced with dirt and grass in short order and then they are perfect for holding water directly under the seals.

You can counteract the damage by greasing the spindles often. And only using water to clean under the deck when absolutely necessary.  After you use water to wash the machine off, you should grease each fitting to flush out the water.

Wash ports on. 21" walk-behind mowers are totally legit however.


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## Sprinter (Jun 2, 2013)

What kind of mower? I've got a big 61" ZTR mower and I hate cleaning the deck, but I've developed a system that's not too bad. I pull the front end up high with a chain hoist and scrape. It's what you have to do. Don't mow when it's wet (not easy around here sometimes).

I spend some time on the "Lawnsite" forum for professional lawn care guys and the consensus is that the water hookup thing is more trouble than it's worth. Some guys swear by FluidFilm for mower decks, but the reviews are mixed. I think you'd have to use it before every use for it to help.

Oh, and never, ever, use a pressure washer!  In fact, no water is best.  You just gotta scrape.


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## smokinj (Jun 2, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> Wash ports are a double-edged sword at best. The problem isn't when the blades are running, it's when they stop. The spindle assembly cools, creating a slight vacuum inside and unless your spindles have good double-lip seals in them, moisture will find its way in for sure. Also many spindle units have a cup of some sort that is to protect the bearing seal from debris that wraps itself around the shaft. These will get paced with dirt and grass in short order and then they are perfect for holding water directly under the seals.
> 
> You can counteract the damage by greasing the spindles often. And only using water to clean under the deck when absolutely necessary. After you use water to wash the machine off, you should grease each fitting to flush out the water.
> 
> Wash ports on. 21" walk-behind mowers are totally legit however.


 


I always been afraid to use it just figured it would rust out the deck. I got it off now and strip it with a wire brush. Repainting it now and will get 6-8 coats on before the new belt gets here. It was hanging on by a thread.  Glad I got it mowed and the parts ordered. Hope to be up and going before Thursday.....


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## Jack Fate (Jun 2, 2013)

use  silicone spray or the dry slide by PB blaster  both seem to help as long as  you start clean

cheers


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## smokinj (Jun 2, 2013)

Jack Fate said:


> use silicone spray or the dry slide by PB blaster both seem to help as long as you start clean
> 
> cheers


 


Yea I got some dry graphite spray to. Once the pant job sets up I will do a couple coats of that. My mower was bought in 2006 doing 2 acres a week, so its time to do it right.


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## nate379 (Jun 2, 2013)

What is this cleaning you talk of? 

I pull it out and clean it all out every couple years. along with sharpening the blades.  I only mow about 4 acres for 4.5-5 months though.



smokinj said:


> How are you cleaning and maintaining your deck? (Lots of rain here this year so mowing every 4 days)


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## smokinj (Jun 2, 2013)

nate379 said:


> What is this cleaning you talk of?
> 
> I pull it out and clean it all out every couple years. along with sharpening the blades. I only mow about 4 acres for 4.5-5 months though.


 


I am on at-least the 8 cut this year so far and with all the rain so far the wind rows just dont look right. Kind of like a sweeper thats just not working right. (35 cuts is average for my area per year)


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## ScotO (Jun 2, 2013)

I just rebuilt the deck spindles on my old John Deere STX38 last month.  They were DESTROYED.....had a fun time taking them apart.  I'm convinced that the reason they went bad is because A) they have no grease fittings on them and B) I used to wash the underside of the deck after every three or four mowings.  Haven't done that in years, but the bearings were wore out.  I scrape the deck once or twice a summer now, especially since I just put new bearings in it.  I've already had to weld a couple patches on that deck and also do some tweaking to the lowering arms.......but she still cuts like a dream!


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## nate379 (Jun 2, 2013)

Haven't cut any grass yet, maybe in the next week or two will be the first mowing.



smokinj said:


> I am on at-least the 8 cut this year so far and with all the rain so far the wind rows just dont look right. Kind of like a sweeper thats just not working right. (35 cuts is average for my area per year)


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## smokinj (Jun 2, 2013)

Scotty Overkill said:


> I just rebuilt the deck spindles on my old John Deere STX38 last month. They were DESTROYED.....had a fun time taking them apart. I'm convinced that the reason they went bad is because A) they have no grease fittings on them and B) I used to wash the underside of the deck after every three or four mowings. Haven't done that in years, but the bearings were wore out. I scrape the deck once or twice a summer now, especially since I just put new bearings in it. I've already had to weld a couple patches on that deck and also do some tweaking to the lowering arms.......but she still cuts like a dream!


 


Mine is still very sound in every way. I am good about grease but lazy as heck with the deck. I am using an enamel rust paint. It ;ppks really good.......280 hours on it with no issue other than I rebuild the carburetor because it was a little sluggish in the deep grass. (Rubber gaskets in there look pretty fat)


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## smokinj (Jun 2, 2013)

nate379 said:


> Haven't cut any grass yet, maybe in the next week or two will be the first mowing.


 


Bawhahahah!


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## Bocefus78 (Jun 3, 2013)

After you paint it all up, use the fluid film. It helps. I use it on my commercial mowers. It's not an end all solution, but it sure helps keep alot of it from sticking. Reapply it every month or so and all is well. On your tractor, use a set of car ramps and you dont even have to drop the deck. The spray cans are pretty pricey for what you get, so I buy quarts and use an old paint brush to apply it.    

FWIW, it works pretty darn good on snowblower chutes too.


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## smokinj (Jun 3, 2013)

Bocefus78 said:


> After you paint it all up, use the fluid film. It helps. I use it on my commercial mowers. It's not an end all solution, but it sure helps keep alot of it from sticking. Reapply it every month or so and all is well. On your tractor, use a set of car ramps and you dont even have to drop the deck. The spray cans are pretty pricey for what you get, so I buy quarts and use an old paint brush to apply it.
> 
> FWIW, it works pretty darn good on snowblower chutes too.


 
I one that page now. The bottom of the deck now looks really good, but I am going to pick up another can today. The new belt will not be here before Wednesday so what the heck.


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## Highbeam (Jun 3, 2013)

I've never cleaned a deck. Never had one rust through either. What does this do for you, the guys at work say it helps the suction and the bagging work better?

I did accidentally clean the bajeepers out of the deck underside once. I chipped several trees/branches onto the lawn and cleaned the piles up the best I could. The remaining smallish 3/8" chips were then sucked up with the mower. Wow did that ever clean things out. It was like a bead blast.

I suppose I shoudl have then coated the underside with some sort of oil or paint. Can one apply used engine oil for this purpose? I need to change the 16 quarts in my ford soon.


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## colin.p (Jun 3, 2013)

I just take my deck off in the fall and clean it as best I can. I store the deck in the shed and leave the lawn-tractor covered out in the snow. Been doing it for 4 years now and so far it's ok.


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## smokinj (Jun 3, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> I've never cleaned a deck. Never had one rust through either. What does this do for you, the guys at work say it helps the suction and the bagging work better?
> 
> I did accidentally clean the bajeepers out of the deck underside once. I chipped several trees/branches onto the lawn and cleaned the piles up the best I could. The remaining smallish 3/8" chips were then sucked up with the mower. Wow did that ever clean things out. It was like a bead blast.
> 
> I suppose I shoudl have then coated the underside with some sort of oil or paint. Can one apply used engine oil for this purpose? I need to change the 16 quarts in my ford soon.


 
Mower will not work as hard spindles will run cooler suction better and or wind rows will be thrown right. Less wear and tear on the whole thing. I been working on the blades to I think there looking the best there ever have too.


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## smokinj (Jun 3, 2013)




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## Jack Fate (Jun 3, 2013)

Man is that a JD stx 38 deck ?

   sorry just quit while your ahead oh its' to late


   just pulling your chain , hope your efforts pay off for ya!

* cheers*


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## smokinj (Jun 3, 2013)

Jack Fate said:


> Man is that a JD stx 38 deck ?
> 
> sorry just quit while your ahead oh its' to late
> 
> ...


 

Pretty close just 2x the hp and a whole lot more rpms to the deck  But I want one set up with a one bottom plow....


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## MasterMech (Jun 4, 2013)

I've been eyeing some graphite based paint that Tractor Supply sells for gravity box wagons.  Supposed to be slick stuff and I'm thinking I'd like to try it on a mower deck someday.  It is labeled for use as such.


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## Sprinter (Jun 5, 2013)

Bocefus78 said:


> After you paint it all up, use the fluid film. It helps. I use it on my commercial mowers. It's not an end all solution, but it sure helps keep alot of it from sticking. Reapply it every month or so and all is well. On your tractor, use a set of car ramps and you dont even have to drop the deck. The spray cans are pretty pricey for what you get, so I buy quarts and use an old paint brush to apply it.
> 
> FWIW, it works pretty darn good on snowblower chutes too.


I've just got to try that stuff I guess.  I've been resistant because of the cost and it would take a lot to coat my triple 61" deck.


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## mywaynow (Jun 5, 2013)

I hook a heavy duty strap from the ROP bar to a tree.  Creep the mower forward and do a wheelie until the front is pitched upward enough to access the deck.  I then use a hose to clean it.  This is a 2-3 times a year event, usually when I am replacing the blades.  Otherwise I do the same thing to expose the blades and sharpen them while on the deck.  Just a touch up edging with this:


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## smokinj (Jun 5, 2013)

mywaynow said:


> I hook a heavy duty strap from the ROP bar to a tree. Creep the mower forward and do a wheelie until the front is pitched upward enough to access the deck. I then use a hose to clean it. This is a 2-3 times a year event, usually when I am replacing the blades. Otherwise I do the same thing to expose the blades and sharpen them while on the deck. Just a touch up edging with this:


 

There it is! I used a wire wheel. (It was a pain in the butt)


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## Ashful (Jun 5, 2013)

mywaynow said:


> I hook a heavy duty strap from the ROP bar to a tree. Creep the mower forward and do a wheelie until the front is pitched upward enough to access the deck.


 
Sounds like a roll-over waiting to happen.  I use an old pair of heavy steel oil change ramps, 1970's style.

<-- once took out some landscape lighting with the zero-turn when a hornet buzzed my face at the wrong moment.


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## mecreature (Jun 5, 2013)

Nice job Jay...

I have been forced to cut grass while it is sprinkling this year. (Baseball season and I got roped into coaching again)
This year is the latest I have seen the corn and beans go in the ground. I have to cut 2 times a week.


I clean my deck every chance I get with the scraper. Then hit the bottom with lube of what ever sort.
Sharp blades are the ticket. I cut everything higher in the spring.

Last year I think I only cut the grass 2 more time from this point on. exaggeration yes but not by much.


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## smokinj (Jun 5, 2013)

mecreature said:


> Nice job Jay...
> 
> I have been forced to cut grass while it is sprinkling this year. (Baseball season and I got roped into coaching again)
> This year is the latest I have seen the corn and beans go in the ground. I have to cut 2 times a week.
> ...


 
That's what I will be doing for now on....What a cutting season this will be. Should lower hay prices a bit.


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## Ashful (Jun 5, 2013)

I'm still cutting every 5th day, but now it looks reasonable, versus looking like I was cutting hay earlier this spring. Can't bear to cut 4 acres more than once every 5 days.

I blow off the mower and top of deck / pulleys with the hand-held leaf blower after each mowing.  I clean the underside of the deck and sharpen all 7 blades (14 edges) once at the end of each season. I always tell myself I'll do a mid-season sharpening, but it never actually happens.


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## mecreature (Jun 5, 2013)

They have been baling around me already. Nice stuff too.
I dont mind the wet weather. It sure keeps me busy.

I picked up 2 truck loads of Locust last weekend. 
It was down already. The guys cutting it burned their bars up pretty good. LOL

They tell me they hate the stuff. It burns too hot to run in a fire place. 

Yeah, its hot alright.


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## lukem (Jun 5, 2013)

Down to every 5 days now...was @ 3 to start the year.


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## MasterMech (Jun 5, 2013)

Joful said:


> sharpen all 7 blades (14 edges)


 
WTH are you running?  I thought you had a Deere 757, those were 3 spindlee machines last time I checked. 7 spindles is WAM (Wide Area Mower) territory....


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## Ashful (Jun 5, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> WTH are you running? I thought you had a Deere 757, those were 3 spindlee machines last time I checked. 7 spindles is WAM (Wide Area Mower) territory....


 

Multiple machines... 3 spindles on Deere Z-757 60" deck, another three spindles on the Cub 123 48" deck (recently replaced with Deere 855 with 72" deck), and one spindle on my push mower. In the past, all three machines would get a yearly sharpening, but since I haven't been using the 72" deck (the Z-757 is faster and neater), I will be down to only four blades this year!

I was mowing roughly 5.5 - 6.0 acres last year, as I was trying to keep the property next to mine neat. I would use the Z-757 on my own property, and the Cub on the other property.  Now that's sold, and I'm down to mowing less than 4 acres.


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## smokinj (Jun 5, 2013)

lukem said:


> Down to every 5 days now...was @ 3 to start the year.


 
lol, you are right.......5 days is letting me get some get parts in. Mowed last Sunday Night. Parts should be here by Thursday. I hope.


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## smokinj (Jun 5, 2013)

Joful said:


> Multiple machines... 3 spindles on Deere Z-757 60" deck, another three spindles on the Cub 123 48" deck (recently replaced with Deere 855 with 72" deck), and one spindle on my push mower. In the past, all three machines would get a yearly sharpening, but since I haven't been using the 72" deck (the Z-757 is faster and neater), I will be down to only four blades this year!
> 
> I was mowing roughly 5.5 - 6.0 acres last year, as I was trying to keep the property next to mine neat. I would use the Z-757 on my own property, and the Cub on the other property. Now that's sold, and I'm down to mowing less than 4 acres.


 
4 is what I am mowing now. 2 mine la 135 and 2 for my uncle lx 277. Mowing I think the 135 does a better.


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## MasterMech (Jun 5, 2013)

smokinj said:


> 4 is what I am mowing now. 2 mine la 135 and 2 for my uncle lx 277. Mowing I think the 135 does a better.


If that's a 48C on the LX277 it should mow waaay better than the LA 135.


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## smokinj (Jun 5, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> If that's a 48C on the LX277 it should mow waaay better than the LA 135.


 
its a 42 inch deck and it don't have near the rpm and its pretty shady lawn, but Good grass(Treated 6 times a year) but no way as thick as mine. He has it  Serviced from dealership two time a year. 135 has a much cleaner look and better wind rows even with the deck full of crap.


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## MasterMech (Jun 5, 2013)

42C should cut good too. Set 'em up 1/8" lower in the front than the rear. RPM's from the motor should be similar (the LX277 is very quiet compared to your LA 135). Could also depend on what blades are under each deck. Best appearance will come from the high-lift or bagging blades.  The deck shells are identical in shape.  Main differences are in the spindles and the mounts.  Blades are interchangeable. 

Dealerships often don't take the time to set a deck up for best cut. Especially if the cust isn't complaining.


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## smokinj (Jun 5, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> 42C should cut good too. Set 'em up 1/8" lower in the front than the rear. RPM's from the motor should be similar (the LX277 is very quiet compared to your LA 135). Could also depend on what blades are each deck. Best appearance will come from the high-lift or bagging blades.
> 
> Dealerships often don't take the time to set a deck up for best cut. Especially if the cust isn't complaining.


 
It cuts good but in no way its it cutting better than the 135. My turf full sun and very thick his is maybe 7 hours of sun and thick for that condition. (15 years in lawn care)  Between me and the gf mowing we both would pick the 135 for mowing. 9135 has 280 hrs and the 277 has 300)


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## MasterMech (Jun 5, 2013)

That's crazy.  The LX277 should be quieter and more comfortable in every way, costs 2x what your LA did too! 

Don't make me come out there........


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## Ashful (Jun 5, 2013)

My internal organs wish I would switch back to mowing with a tractor.  I don't know how these guys who ride Z-traks all day do it!  I hurt after just a few hours on mine, and I'm in good shape.  Tried mowing right after dinner once, and felt like I should have obeyed the 40 minute rule for swimming after eating.


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## smokinj (Jun 5, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> That's crazy. The LX277 should be quieter and more comfortable in every way, costs 2x what your LA did too!
> 
> Don't make me come out there........


 
Please do! Everything about the 135 is faster mower and cleaner cut. Right down to peddle placement to turning easier to hit the rio and faster in the straight away better seat to! (One thicker turf) He has no kids so it will be mine someday. So get out here we can race them lol


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## MasterMech (Jun 5, 2013)

Joful said:


> My internal organs wish I would switch back to mowing with a tractor. I don't know how these guys who ride Z-traks all day do it! I hurt after just a few hours on mine, and I'm in good shape. Tried mowing right after dinner once, and felt like I should have obeyed the 40 minute rule for swimming after eating.


I think Deere offered a suspension kit for those, even tho the stock seat is good.  The pros know that the seat matters!

Check tire psi too.  Doesn't hurt to drop 'em a couple pounds under spec and see if that helps.


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## MasterMech (Jun 5, 2013)

smokinj said:


> Please do! Everything about the 135 is faster mower and cleaner cut. Right down to peddle placement to turning easier to hit the rio and faster in the straight away! (One thicker turf) He has no kids so it will be mine someday. So get out here we can race them lol


I'd start by making sure it's turning the RPM's it's supposed to.  I'd have to check the specs to be sure but I'm guessing 34-3600 as a ball park.  We can cure that RIO issue in a hurry.  That's just about the only "safety" I don't mind bypassing.  Would make a spectacular horn button however.


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## smokinj (Jun 5, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> I'd start by making sure it's turning the RPM's it's supposed to. I'd have to check the specs to be sure but I'm guessing 34-3600 as a ball park. We can cure that RIO issue in a hurry. That's just about the only "safety" I don't mind bypassing. Would make a spectacular horn button however.


 

Hes old and fell off 3 weeks ago. That's where I came in. Its running fine hes a retired engineer from GM everything hes got is.


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## Ashful (Jun 5, 2013)

The seat on that machine is pretty nice, but there's only so much it can do when you hit a serious divot or dip.  The property is cross-crossed with back-filled drain lines and utility lines, which were level when back-filled, but have since settled.  I try to improve on that situation a little each year.

I have been playing with tire pressure, trying to find the PSI where I can make hard turns without too much tire compression (scalping on outside edge of deck), yet soft enough that my internal organs stay in their original locations.  I think I have it dialed in pretty good, for the moment.

One problem I have is none of my tire gauges agree on what 12 psi should read.  Some read 9 psi while others read 14 psi on the same tire, and some of these are special ones made for reading tire pressures under 20 PSI.  Makes it sort of difficult to really know where you're at.


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## MasterMech (Jun 5, 2013)

Joful said:


> The seat on that machine is pretty nice, but there's only so much it can do when you hit a serious divot or dip. The property is cross-crossed with back-filled drain lines and utility lines, which were level when back-filled, but have since settled. I try to improve on that situation a little each year.
> 
> I have been playing with tire pressure, trying to find the PSI where I can make hard turns without too much tire compression (scalping on outside edge of deck), yet soft enough that my internal organs stay in their original locations. I think I have it dialed in pretty good, for the moment.
> 
> One problem I have is none of my tire gauges agree on what 12 psi should read. Some read 9 psi while others read 14 psi on the same tire, and some of these are special ones made for reading tire pressures under 20 PSI. Makes it sort of difficult to really know where you're at.


The suspension kit will allow you to air up the tires to where they don't tear up the turf but save your rear the abuse. Not unheard of for guys to run them as low as 8 psi but that requires re-leveling the deck.


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## smokinj (Jun 5, 2013)

Joful said:


> The seat on that machine is pretty nice, but there's only so much it can do when you hit a serious divot or dip. The property is cross-crossed with back-filled drain lines and utility lines, which were level when back-filled, but have since settled. I try to improve on that situation a little each year.
> 
> I have been playing with tire , trying to find the PSI where I can make hard turns without too much tire compression (scalping on outside edge of deck), yet soft enough that my internal organs stay in their original locations. I think I have it dialed in pretty good, for the moment.
> 
> One problem I have is none of my tire gauges agree on what 12 psi should read. Some read 9 psi while others read 14 psi on the same tire, and some of these are special ones made for reading tire pressures under 20 PSI. Makes it sort of difficult to really know where you're at.


 
I tried 2 different gauges as well. I have decided my eye ball is a better judge.


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## Highbeam (Jun 5, 2013)

I cleaned the deck last night because of this thread. I only use a 2 blade 42" craftsman mower. Took it off and dug out all the junk as best as I could with scraping tools. I then used what I had to spray paint the exposed metal. No wire brush, no pressure washer and quite a bit of the deck had a thin layer of crust still.

It might have been the sunny weather, or lower grass but the mower seemed to pump clippings into the baggage system more dependably at faster ground speeds. I bag everything and mow about 3/4 acre.

Maybe there is something to this deck cleaning business. Any ideas for getting my huge clippings pile to go away?


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## smokinj (Jun 5, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> I cleaned the deck last night because of this thread. I only use a 2 blade 42" craftsman mower. Took it off and dug out all the junk as best as I could with scraping tools. I then used what I had to spray paint the exposed metal. No wire brush, no pressure washer and quite a bit of the deck had a thin layer of crust still.
> 
> It might have been the sunny weather, or lower grass but the mower seemed to pump clippings into the baggage system more dependably at faster ground speeds. I bag everything and mow about 3/4 acre.
> 
> Maybe there is something to this deck cleaning business. Any ideas for getting my huge clippings pile to go away?


 

I would think the any dry lube spray in the Shute would help to. They say it works in the snow blowers seems it should help there too. Oh Mulch pile it. Maybe catch on fire!  lol ( I have had a pile in my truck smoking pretty good)


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## MasterMech (Jun 5, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> Any ideas for getting my huge clippings pile to go away?


 
Quit bagging. 

Look into mulching options. You guys in the PNW are quite wet however so you might be limited. Mulching does not work well in wet or tall grass. You have to stay on top of it (mowing frequently) to get the best results.  You will reap the benefits of keeping the clippings on the lawn too, the lawn recycles the nutrients from the cut grass.


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## Highbeam (Jun 5, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> Quit bagging.
> 
> Look into mulching options. You guys in the PNW are quite wet however so you might be limited. Mulching does not work well in wet or tall grass. You have to stay on top of it (mowing frequently) to get the best results. You will reap the benefits of keeping the clippings on the lawn too, the lawn recycles the nutrients from the cut grass.


 
Oh no, there will be no mulching. Tried that before in this yard for a year and the growth rate far exceeds the decomposition rate. Most of the mowing was just pushing the brown clippings side to side. Quite comical, the build up blanket was over an inch thick, brown, and would be lifted by the grass pushing up from below.

Kids would track it in the house. Slip-n-slide events resulted in kids looking like sasquatch. Not a happy wife.

Collecting the clippings doesn't add much time or effort but the pile has grown to about 30 cubic yards. I started dumping woodstove ashes on it in hopes of kicking the decomposition up a bit.


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## smokinj (Jun 5, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> Oh no, there will be no mulching. Tried that before in this yard for a year and the growth rate far exceeds the decomposition rate. Most of the mowing was just pushing the brown clippings side to side. Quite comical, the build up blanket was over an inch thick, brown, and would be lifted by the grass pushing up from below.
> 
> Kids would track it in the house. Slip-n-slide events resulted in kids looking like sasquatch. Not a happy wife.
> 
> Collecting the clippings doesn't add much time or effort but the pile has grown to about 30 cubic yards. I started dumping woodstove ashes on it in hopes of kicking the decomposition up a bit.


 
If you can turn it over with that bucket once a week would speed it up a lot!


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## Highbeam (Jun 5, 2013)

smokinj said:


> If you can turn it over with that bucket once a week would speed it up a lot!


 
I tried that once this winter. What a nasty mess. That grass pile is like a huge, fresh, wet cow pie. The tractor bucket and front wheels were covered in that nasty, sticky, grossness. It stunk bad. Since it was winter, it didn't take long to start making mud around the pile so I gave up.

Maybe this summer I'll try again if that is the best way to go.


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## smokinj (Jun 5, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> I tried that once this winter. What a nasty mess. That grass pile is like a huge, fresh, wet cow pie. The tractor bucket and front wheels were covered in that nasty, sticky, grossness. It stunk bad. Since it was winter, it didn't take long to start making mud around the pile so I gave up.
> 
> Maybe this summer I'll try again if that is the best way to go.


 
With fresh stuff on top and dry conditions should not stick like that. Be good mulch for the garden once decomposed.


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## MasterMech (Jun 5, 2013)

It's a commitment thing. 

Mulching works best when you mow frequently, like 2x what you normally would.  Or have a dedicated mulching deck/machine like John Deere's Freedom 42 or the 44 Piranha decks that were under various tractors.  Still have to keep up with the grass but dedicated mulch decks leave much finer clippings than a converted conventional setup.  My LT150 with a Freedom 42 leaves clippings that are typically 1/2" - 3/8". They pretty much are invisible and break down quick.


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## smokinj (Jun 5, 2013)

New belt installed, air filter, razor Sharpe blades, re-built carb and everything with a fresh shot of grease. Couple pass's and the deck is level and cutting with 0 effort and turning on a dime. Next the 212 and Sunday 277. But the little 135 with 22hp and a 42 deck is my favorite mower out of those 3. That may change when I am done we will see.


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## jensent (Jun 5, 2013)

Family has run a lawn care business for 20 yrs. Here is what we find work best. Run welded decks fabricated from steel plate. Mo-deck spray "helps". Decks scrape easier before they are allowed to dry. Blades should be installed with leading edge blunted to prevent metal fatigue from impacts. Our smallest mower deck is 36in and only used where access is restricted. Kawasaki engines are our favorite. Fixed deck "stander" style mowers are our favorite. Grasshopper hydraulics  seem to steer and trim the smoothest. Hope this helps.
Tom


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## Bocefus78 (Jun 6, 2013)

For you people who can't get an accurate tire guage for low pressures, use an ATV tire guage.  ATV's run as low as 3lbs.


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## lukem (Jun 6, 2013)

The best way to get rid of a pile of grass clippings is to not put them in a pile.  Or at least not in a big pile.  As long as the pile stays wet they'll just sit there and fester and end up smelling like a cow lot in a couple days.  If the pile is kept dry you could burn them off, but I realize keeping a pile of grass dry in the PNW is not likely.

I think your best option might be to bury them if you have space.  If not, haul them off.


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## MasterMech (Jun 6, 2013)

Bocefus78 said:


> For you people who can't get an accurate tire guage for low pressures, use an ATV tire guage. ATV's run as low as 3lbs.


I have a pencil gauge that runs 0 - 20 psi and I keep that thing locked down all the time.  It's balls-on accurate which is rare for that type of gauge.  I've had good luck with dial type gauges but they are hard to find in the appropriate scale.


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## MasterMech (Jun 6, 2013)

jensent said:


> Run welded decks fabricated from steel plate.


 
This guy has never met a Deere 7-Iron deck.  Stamped, but it's 7 - gauge steel with reinforcements around the spindles.  The smooth underside with no corners is king when conditions get wet and heavy.  I'd put it up against some of the best fabricated (welded) decks in the business. (and I have ).




jensent said:


> Blades should be installed with leading edge blunted


 
This is true.  Some blades come with the leading edge ground flat, leaving about 1/32" of a face.  Works.



jensent said:


> Fixed deck "stander" style mowers are our favorite.


 
Those seem to be making a comeback but not around here.  Wherever there are steep slopes, the standers stay parked and the hydro walk-behinds reign supreme.  

It all varies by region, grass, blades, decks, design, everything.  What works in FL doesn't in the Northeast and what works in the Midwest could very well be disastrous for someone running a mowing business in the Pacific Northwest.


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## Ashful (Jun 6, 2013)

Bocefus78 said:


> For you people who can't get an accurate tire guage for low pressures, use an ATV tire guage. ATV's run as low as 3lbs.


 


MasterMech said:


> I have a pencil gauge that runs 0 - 20 psi and I keep that thing locked down all the time. It's balls-on accurate which is rare for that type of gauge. I've had good luck with dial type gauges but they are hard to find in the appropriate scale.


 

Guys, I do have a brand new ATV dial gauge.  Reads 0 - 15 PSI.  It disagrees with my other FOUR dial gauges by 3 - 5 psi... which is right?



MasterMech said:


> This guy has never met a Deere 7-Iron deck. Stamped, but it's 7 - gauge steel with reinforcements around the spindles. The smooth underside with no corners is king when conditions get wet and heavy. I'd put it up against some of the best fabricated (welded) decks in the business. (and I have ).


 

True.  I have two 7-iron decks, one 60" for the 757 Z-trak and one 72" for the 855 MFWD.  The previous owner bumped two different concrete steps on my patio with that 60" deck, and broke the steps both times, but never hurt the deck.


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## MasterMech (Jun 6, 2013)

Joful said:


> Guys, I do have a brand new ATV dial gauge. Reads 0 - 15 PSI. It disagrees with my other FOUR dial gauges by 3 - 5 psi... which is right?


 
You'll never know until you try 'em against a calibrated gauge.  You're on your own there.


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## Jack Fate (Jun 10, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> You'll never know until you try 'em against a calibrated gauge. You're on your own there.


 

Personally like Milton air fittings & gauges ,made in usa  have been my reference standard for 30 yrs


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## Sprinter (Jun 10, 2013)

Joful said:


> The seat on that machine is pretty nice, but there's only so much it can do when you hit a serious divot or dip. The property is cross-crossed with back-filled drain lines and utility lines, which were level when back-filled, but have since settled. I try to improve on that situation a little each year.
> 
> I have been playing with tire pressure, trying to find the PSI where I can make hard turns without too much tire compression (scalping on outside edge of deck), yet soft enough that my internal organs stay in their original locations. I think I have it dialed in pretty good, for the moment.
> 
> One problem I have is none of my tire gauges agree on what 12 psi should read. Some read 9 psi while others read 14 psi on the same tire, and some of these are special ones made for reading tire pressures under 20 PSI. Makes it sort of difficult to really know where you're at.


I have pretty rough ground too. I didn't see much improvement with tire pressure down to 10. What really helped me was this after market suspension seat: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200268424_200268424

It's an adjustable air suspension with a couple inches of travel which is adequate. Doesn't do anything for the machine, of course, but it did help my back a lot.  Well, that and going slower...


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## Ashful (Jun 11, 2013)

Thanks, Sprinter!  Yeah, I think about the machine more than myself.  Probably good that I don't have an air ride seat, lest I beat the machine to death!  By this time each year, I have the bumps and dips pretty well memorized and/or filled in with fresh dirt and seed.  So, I'm good until next spring, when I need to start learning (and filling) all over again.

I just learned that one of the dips that runs about 600 feet across my property is buried utilities, and run to a transformer behind my neighbor's house, and then back forward up to his house.  They must've run close to 1000 feet of unnecessary copper, versus just putting the transformer in front of his house.  Bizarre.  The other weird thing is that line does not show up in the utility easements, but PA one-call found it.


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