# how u doing on next years pile?????



## argus66 (Jan 22, 2009)

do to the fact 80% of wood sellers are rip off artists, back in nov. i bought a splitter and got going on my own. anyway i'm 4 cords toward next yr which is pretty good cause i use about 6 cords for winter. i just got at least another cord and a half of oak off craigs list for free. what does everyone else have????


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## savageactor7 (Jan 22, 2009)

Our was done a couple of years ago. You're fortunate to be able to knock that chore out now when the weather is cool.


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## Tree farmer (Jan 22, 2009)

Nothing worked up yet but I have 5 cords log length to truck home, 7-8 cords coming in a week on a truck and 3 cords around the house.  Guess I better get busy buzzing.


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## argus66 (Jan 22, 2009)

ya no way i wanna mess around with this when its 90 outside. plus gotta start seasoning asap.


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## spoon059 (Jan 22, 2009)

Yea, I have been trying to score free wood off Craigslist too.  I have almost a cord of oak split for next year, have about half a cord to split and stack of oak.  Whats left to split and stack is VERY green and a bear to split, especially cause its frozen solid right now.  This year I didn't burn full time, but I'd like to get enough wood seasoned that I can be a full time burner next year.  Since October we have gone through about 125 gallons of oil, granted the boiler supplies domestic hot water too, but I'd like to use less next year.  This is our first year in the house, so I have nothing to compare it too.


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## kenny chaos (Jan 22, 2009)

how u doing on next years pile?????  

What's a "next years pile?"


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## Summertime (Jan 22, 2009)

I already have the next two years worth split and stacked, I would like to build a wood shed instead of using tarps though.


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## argus66 (Jan 22, 2009)

i only burn full time when its below 30 degrees outside plus im still a little leery leaving the fire when i go to work all day. but i keep the pipe clean so no big worries


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## argus66 (Jan 22, 2009)

i hate these tarps im already planning wood shed.


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## EatenByLimestone (Jan 22, 2009)

I think I have it all gathered.   It's in a big pile of splits in my back yard, and I have a good amount still unsplit at my father and grandfather's houses.  The ice storm was kind to me, but I will not know how much I have until I have it all split and stacked.

Total is one oak and most of one maple (split already and in a pile.)  2 maples and 2 pine trees at my father's house.  One big maple has not been taken down yet, but the neighbor says he wants to.  And assorted maple branches at my grandfather's house.

Matt


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## fespo (Jan 22, 2009)

Im good for 2 years right now, split and stacked. Working on year 3 once the snow melts. I have more wood then room. All of my wood is store at my dads place, then I truck it over to my place some 25 miles each way. Oh well, that's the best I can do for now.


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## LLigetfa (Jan 22, 2009)

I've got all of next year's wood cut and split with most of it stacked.


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## stejus (Jan 22, 2009)

Here's two of the four cords for next year.  I have another cord I'm cutting now and ordering 1 more cord once this pile is finished. Fortunatly I got this load delivered before the 20" of snow came.


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## fossil (Jan 22, 2009)

argus66 said:
			
		

> do to the fact 80% of wood sellers are rip off artists, back in nov. i bought a splitter and got going on my own. anyway i'm 4 cords toward next yr which is pretty good cause i use about 6 cords for winter. i just got at least another cord and a half of oak off craigs list for free. what does everyone else have????



What do I have?  I have a problem with ludicrous, unsubstantiated declarative statements such as, "...the _fact_ that 80% of wood sellers are rip off artists...".  Where's your data?  That's just a dumb thing to say, IMO.  Rick


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## argus66 (Jan 22, 2009)

i said 80% not 100 % look up old posts  under title a real cord for x mass and see all the data u need. it stems form a seller ripping people off and winding up with $4000 fine losing his standing with better business bureau and possible jail time all for selling less then a cord of wood.


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## kenny chaos (Jan 22, 2009)

fossil said:
			
		

> argus66 said:
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But these are real men who have all of next years done, or more, and stacked!
I'm so impressed with all these declarations, even if they're true that, well, nevermind.  It does nothing for me.
I think some of these guys need a dating forum.


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## Jack Straw (Jan 22, 2009)

I have next year's wood all stacked. I see ads for seasoned firewood, but alot of it is in very large mounds from the conveyor. Does that wood dry like that???


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## Lumber-Jack (Jan 22, 2009)

I'm way ahead of all of you,,, I already started burning "next years" pile. 

Seriously, if I collect all my wood by the end of next June I'll be months ahead of what I was this year.


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## bsruther (Jan 22, 2009)

I have nothing cut or split yet, but everything that I will split has been dead and down for a year. I'll prolly start splitting in march.
I'll just throw it in a big pile next to where I'm building the shed. I hate stacking twice and I've done that way too many times.


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## Pagey (Jan 22, 2009)

74% of all statistics are made up on the spot.  

I have just over 2 cords put up, see my pics in the work area/next year's wood thread.


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## Gooserider (Jan 22, 2009)

I've got between 3 and 4 cords cut, split and stacked in my backup piles, and probably another cord or two on the ground, cut to rounds but not split - that is probably most of next years stack, but won't know for sure until the end of the season when I see what I've burned for this year out of the 7.5 cords in the sheds.  I'm guessing that will be most of the pile needed, but that just means I have the time to start work on the 2010-2011 pile.  Can't be too many years out...

Gooserider


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## Bigg_Redd (Jan 22, 2009)

Next years pile is in the woodshed and the year after is almost done.  All free.


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## RJP Electric (Jan 22, 2009)

My 10 for the following year just got delivered. I better get busy.


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## fyrwoodguy (Jan 22, 2009)

then it snowed,rained.then got cold-the last blast 'till spring  ;-)





1-2 acres done. 12 more to go  :roll:
ALL the hardwood is being removed from ENTIRE LOT and being saved for round stovewood......"the best kind".....& FREE TOO !


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## Jags (Jan 22, 2009)

Dang it Fyrwoodguy - now I have another toy on my list - mini grapple.  I don't have time to build the stuff already on the list.  Well, I guess I could move the hovercraft to a lower position.  Hovercrafts don't do much real work anyhow.

Very cool.


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## Backwoods Savage (Jan 22, 2009)

We have somewhere between 20 and 30 cords.


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## pulldownclaw (Jan 22, 2009)

Got 3 cords of oak split and stacked in the last few months, hope it's done seasoning by next year, it's no joke how long it takes.  Have another 2 laying around unsplit.  Gotta get busy because we have blown thru alotta wood this year.

Stejus, how wide is that HH?  I made mine 7' diameter/7' tall and it worked out well.  It seemed to me that if it was much wider it would be hard to reach in to stack in the center, unless you use the "just throw it in the middle" method.


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## savageactor7 (Jan 22, 2009)

fyrwoodguy real nice grapple but I could lift those twigs with my johnson tool.


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## fyrwoodguy (Jan 23, 2009)

savageactor7 said:
			
		

> fyrwoodguy real nice grapple but I could lift those twigs with my johnson tool.



thanks for the compliment on my grapple !  but can your johnson lift a grapple load to a time as pictured? at once??????

the twigs are loaded by hand.....off load with grapple


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## Chief Ryan (Jan 23, 2009)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> We have somewhere between 20 and 30 cords.



Somewhere i read that you go through about 3 cord per year. 20 to 30 Cord Your a.......SAVAGE  

This is my first year burning a stove. I've used it 24/7 since November and at night through October. I think i'll only go through 3 cord myself most likely less. I have about 6 to 7 cord split and stacked ready for the next 2 years.


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## kenny chaos (Jan 23, 2009)

I'm so happy for all you guys. :coolcheese:


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## smokinj (Jan 23, 2009)

Bigg_Redd said:
			
		

> Next years pile is in the woodshed and the year after is almost done.  All free.


is that with a 5100 i hope


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## Roxburyeric (Jan 23, 2009)

I have 4 cords of oak and maple split and stacked, but based on this year I'll need another 2 cords. I'll probably run out this year at the end of February, then I'll have to decide if I start burning next years wood.  We'll see what happens - First year and learning alot. Thanks all.


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## waynek (Jan 23, 2009)

I am not one to get to far ahead with putting up wood as there is too many distractions. 3 cords are ranked up in the woodshed and there is another 3 to 4 cords split up in the woods. Heavy snow came early in November and was not worth the risk of breaking equipment or bones bringing it off the hills. Come green up it will be brought to the homestead.  This has happened to me before and it just creates another problem... that is dealing with rattlesnakes that sometimes take residence in the woodpiles. Typically, I burn 7 to 8 cords per year. Since the 1960s I have only come up short 3 or 4 times thats when I go to plan B, which is to buy slabwood bundles from the local sawmills. Winter of 1976-1977 was really a bad year and was only able to purchase one slabwood bundle so I had to resort to Plan C. Cut and burn standing White Ash.


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## savageactor7 (Jan 23, 2009)

Just joking with ya *fyrwoodguy *I'll bet the helpers just love helping out...when their that age anything to so that has a motor is fun.


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## Ken45 (Jan 23, 2009)

I have about two cord bucked but not split.  I expect we will have at least one cord left over this year, so we should be close to having enough for next year.

I'm hoping to get in enough to get at least a couple of years ahead.  That would be nice 

Ken


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## fyrwoodguy (Jan 23, 2009)

savageactor7 said:
			
		

> Just joking with ya *fyrwoodguy *I'll bet the helpers just love helping out...when their that age anything to so that has a motor is fun.



i kinda knew that,but i just could'nt resist......betcha you could'nt either


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## Backwoods Savage (Jan 23, 2009)

Chief Ryan said:
			
		

> Backwoods Savage said:
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Thanks Chief. I knocked down another big ash this morning. So the pile just keeps growing. Actually this is the first I've cut since that cold spell and today the temperature is up around 30 so I grabbed the saw and cut away.

Just looking right now it does look like we will go through a little over 3 cords this winter. But this is the type of winter when we burned 7 cords or more with a different stove. Man I love that Fireview.

Chief, that sounds great that you have 6-7 cords ready. Now you are a real wood burner!


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## Valhalla (Jan 23, 2009)

I am working on the wood for winter 2010-11 and beyond.


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## Chief Ryan (Jan 24, 2009)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

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All of the wood was scrounged. Tomorrow i will be cutting some from a ladies house around the corner who probably has about 10 cords all in logs. Hope to get a few of them


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## rayburn (Jan 25, 2009)

Probably about 4 cords of red oak, maple, black walnut ,red elm and poplar so far for next year.I would like to have about 6 to seven cords by the end of February for next season.


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## djslim (Jan 25, 2009)

Man you guys all make me feel like a real slacker, I have only about a cord bucked and thrown in a big pile right now. Hopefully have a cord left over from this season to carry over to next. Maybe find the "big score" this year and  get a full year or two ahead. Should have some more time on my hands in the next couple months and try to hit it hard so iam not cutting in the middle of july like last year. Way too hot to be cutting.


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## mbokie5 (Jan 25, 2009)

I've gone through everything I had. I'm scrounging for more. Got two dead trees yesterday and it will keep me going for now.

Got tired of not being prepared and bought a splitter before Xmas. Only got to use it once. I am probably going to need a bigger chainsaw as well.

But next winter, my goal is to have two years set aside and that means about 20 - 24 cords.


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## iceman (Jan 25, 2009)

relic said:
			
		

> I've gone through everything I had. I'm scrounging for more. Got two dead trees yesterday and it will keep me going for now.
> 
> Got tired of not being prepared and bought a splitter before Xmas. Only got to use it once. I am probably going to need a bigger chainsaw as well.
> 
> But next winter, my goal is to have two years set aside and that means about 20 - 24 cords.



are you kidding????? what are you heating with that you need 10-12 coed a year?


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## argus66 (Jan 25, 2009)

i just got a huge load from a golf course down the road. mostly oak and maple.


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## mbokie5 (Jan 25, 2009)

iceman said:
			
		

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Whatever I can get with the exceptions I mentioned earlier. My stove is inefficient and I burn it hot so I can turn on the fan in the furnace. I could have had a lot more wood, but didn't pick it up because there was already way too much in the yard unprocessed. I live in town. Our stove will take 28" wood.


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## Ken45 (Jan 25, 2009)

relic said:
			
		

> Whatever I can get with the exceptions I mentioned earlier. My stove is inefficient and I burn it hot so I can turn on the fan in the furnace. I could have had a lot more wood, but didn't pick it up because there was already way too much in the yard unprocessed. I live in town. Our stove will take 28" wood.



I have read that trying to move stove heat around with the furnace fan is quite inefficient due to duct leaks, heat loss, etc.   My own experience agrees with that.

What I do find effective is to put a fan on the floor near the doorway (we use just the small 10-12" fans), blowing floor air OUT of the rooms that need heat.  That pulls in the warmer air in without having to hang fans in the doorway itself.  Even the small fans on low do a good job of moving cold air out and warm air into a room.

Ken


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## mbokie5 (Jan 25, 2009)

Ken45 said:
			
		

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Yeah, it's inefficient, but it's better than nothing and it does help to evacuate heat from the room with the stove and it does move some heat.

I have an oscillating fan as well, like you suggested.

I need a better stove and better circulation and that's going to get my attention next.


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## waynek (Jan 25, 2009)

I realize everyone can not move the heat without mechanical assistance, but when I purchased my 1915 two-story brick "4 square" house several years ago I established a thermosiphon of air.  First I lined the two flue chimney that served the first floor fireplace and forced air furnace in the basement. Poked a hole in the flue just above the fireplace, masoned in an attractive chimney thimble and installed a wood heater. Power vented the forced air furnace in the basement, rebuilt the thimble and installed a wood heater. Over a period of several weeks I scrounged several iron floor registers from razed victorian homes. The largest register was about 3 x 4 feet. I cut out the flooring above the wood heater in the basement and placed this register in the opening.

Then I installed the other registers in the upstairs rooms, placing them under each window.  I wanted to install registers on the first floor, but my wife stopped me. "Let's see if this thermosiphon idea of yours works for the first and second floor before we cut openings into the basement." My better half was doubting my vast knowledge of physics. My theory was that the open stairwell to the second floor would act as a thermal chimney, warming the 2nd floor rooms. Cool or cold air from the windows would sink through the floor registers and be drawn to the stove on the first floor. This cool or cold air drawn and sinking through the registers would in turn draw warmer air from the upstairs central hallway into each room to complete my thermosiphon cycle. Suffice to say it does work and when the house guests ask about the cute antique registers in the room ceilings (or floors), the wife "expertly" explains the purpose and function.

Not satisfied to let this approval rating from my wife to go to waste, I expanded my work. As mentioned, heretofore, I have a wood heater in the basement with this large antique register directly above it. Without register openings into the basement, I wasn't sure if I could complete a thermosiphon cycle. By firing the basement stove with the register overhead opened fully, I could get heat into the first floor, up the stairwell to the second floor, but the question remained how to get the cold air back to the basement stove. Well I cut a hole in the basement door, installed a "modern" register, cut holes in the first and second floor boxed in laundry chute and installed "modern" registers in each opening.

If temperature does not drop below 25 degrees and the wind is not blowing, the basement stove will heat the entire house comfortably. Below 25 degrees the basement stove is not fired...the first floor stove is fired up and it will take care of the heating needs.


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## Gooserider (Jan 26, 2009)

jackpine said:
			
		

> I realize everyone can not move the heat without mechanical assistance, but when I purchased my 1915 two-story brick "4 square" house several years ago I established a thermosiphon of air.  First I lined the two flue chimney that served the first floor fireplace and forced air furnace in the basement. Poked a hole in the flue just above the fireplace, masoned in an attractive chimney thimble and installed a wood heater. Power vented the forced air furnace in the basement, rebuilt the thimble and installed a wood heater. Over a period of several weeks I scrounged several iron floor registers from razed victorian homes. The largest register was about 3 x 4 feet. I cut out the flooring above the wood heater in the basement and placed this register in the opening.
> 
> Then I installed the other registers in the upstairs rooms, placing them under each window.  I wanted to install registers on the first floor, but my wife stopped me. "Let's see if this thermosiphon idea of yours works for the first and second floor before we cut openings into the basement." My better half was doubting my vast knowledge of physics. My theory was that the open stairwell to the second floor would act as a thermal chimney, warming the 2nd floor rooms. Cool or cold air from the windows would sink through the floor registers and be drawn to the stove on the first floor. This cool or cold air drawn and sinking through the registers would in turn draw warmer air from the upstairs central hallway into each room to complete my thermosiphon cycle. Suffice to say it does work and when the house guests ask about the cute antique registers in the room ceilings (or floors), the wife "expertly" explains the purpose and function.
> 
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Hmmm...  Getting a bit off the thread topic, if this goes to far afield I may split the thread, but...  What you describe sounds effective, and is very much the way that folks did it back in the "bad olde days"  However it is arguably (if you search back a ways you'll find some serious arguements about it!) a violation of modern code standards and safety hazard.  Do a search on "Expressway to disaster" for more details, but in essence the idea is that IF chit happens and you have a fire or smoke problem then those registers will act to spread the fire and or fumes much more rapidly - possibly causing a deadly threat at a time when seconds count...  A part of what goes into modern code requirements is "containment", or making floors / walls designed to act as temporary barriers to flame so as to increase the time available to evacuate - poking holes in them for registers breaches that integrity.  At the same time the code is not 100% clear as to whether registers of this sort are prohibited or not, and what the exact requirements for them are if they are OK...  One thing that has been suggested is the use of thermal closures, I forget the exact term, but they are a set of spring loaded louvers held open with a catch that melts if it gets to hot, blocking flame spread.  Doesn't do anything for a smoke / CO problem but may help for fire safety....

Gooserider


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## waynek (Jan 26, 2009)

This remodeling was done with building permit, inspection of local municipality builder inspector. Fire Chief inspection and insurance agent inspector.

Jackpine


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## WoodMann (Jan 26, 2009)

Ain't doin' nuthin' right now. Pulled a hamstring and it hurts to high Heaven. How did I do it? You guessed it- while trimming. I was helping my dad clear some over- growth on his land that the wants to split up, I just finished trimming a tree and was climbing down. Was on the last step to the ground, and I was not as close to the ground as I thought, let go of the tree and went further down than I thought I would, tensed up, left foot extended which too the brunt of the landing then I went down onto my back. Good think there were'nt and cacti there..............


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## Gooserider (Jan 26, 2009)

jackpine said:
			
		

> This remodeling was done with building permit, inspection of local municipality builder inspector. Fire Chief inspection and insurance agent inspector.
> 
> Jackpine



No argument from me - as I said this was a topic that got somewhat hotly debated.  :grrr:  Elk, one of our former active members, who was one of the strongest in saying it was a hazard, is a building inspector in MA. While he said that he wouldn't pass such a setup, he also didn't seem able to point to a specific section of code that said it wasn't allowed - the only cites he gave seemed rather ambiguous at best.

I'm not going to take a position either way on what the code says, as I'm not sure, nor do I know what may have changed between these days and when you did your changes.  I do think there is some logic to the idea that there is a potential hazard, and feel that it is worth mentioning when I see the subject come up as part of the Hearth's general position of promoting safe practices.

Gooserider


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## kenny chaos (Jan 26, 2009)

Gooserider said:
			
		

> jackpine said:
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Safety is one thing, fear, quite another especially when inpired by a guy who's been thrown off the same forum more than once.


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## 11 Bravo (Jan 26, 2009)

Anyway..........got a cord and a half towards next year, the majority of it will be cut, split, stacked in March/April.


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## rphurley (Jan 26, 2009)

Next year's pile has been split and stacked since last spring and when the snow melts I'll start working on the following season!


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## Cluttermagnet (Jan 28, 2009)

As a new wood burner in my first full season, I'm finding this question difficult to answer. I'm not arithmetic challenged- I do know how to measure and compute wood volumes in cubic inches, how to convert to cubic feet, how to equate that to cords, etc. I processed 3-4 cords this past summer, most of it stacked. You'd think it would be easy to figure how much I've burned. But what I really have here is such copious and varied sources of wood that I'm actually burning about a dozen different wood types, predominately hardwoods. My wood comes from various stacks- about 9-10 small ones; also from various piles. I have split and immediately burned some horizontal, off ground deadwood (various Oak types, mostly). I've burned a whole lot of 'trash wood' this season, but my 'trashy' wood is simply good Red Oak that is too gnarly and/or punky to stack. I've even burned small amounts of construction scrap and pallet wood. I'm just trying everything, and I feel like a kid in a candy factory. ;-) 

A rough guess would be about 1+ cord so far, to heat my ~1500 sq. ft. Rambler on the main floor only. I allow the mostly finished basement floor to cool to between 50 to 60+ degrees, running a couple of portable electric heaters in some spaces. The first floor cycles between about 60 to 70+ degrees, with the stove room (living room) running between 60 and 80. I certainly will be in the 'under 3 cords per year' category, heating this smaller house.

So, how am I doing on next year's pile? While I don't yet know for sure, I think I'm already well on my way to having next year's wood on hand and processed. Thankfully, I have access to sufficient wood on private land belonging to two of my friends. It's only a matter of making the time to go get the wood, bring it back, and split and stack here. If I do get my woodshed built this year, that will help a lot, and also make it easier to keep track of wood volumes.

I've learned a lot in a short time, in this forum. I still have much to learn, also a lot of work to improve my house's state of weatherization. That work I do myself at a slow (and affordable) pace. I've already learned enough that I'm able to help my neighbor and others improve their wood burning situations. Thanks, guys, for all the good info. This is certainly *the * 'go to' place for learning the art of wood burning.


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## Valhalla (Jan 28, 2009)

Clutter,

Round all your inches to the nearest foot. It will simplify your math.

For example, 29" X 34" X 59" would be 2' X 3' X 5' = 30 cubic feet.

Yes, Hearth.com is a great resource of information and a wonderful learning place.

Enjoy your stove and burn wisely.


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## LLigetfa (Jan 28, 2009)

I think I burned maybe 3 or 4 cord so far this Winter.  Hard to tell exactly since I keep taking from different rows but it looks like there's about 6 cord left in the shed and maybe another 2 or 3 outside under the snow.


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## wendell (Jan 29, 2009)

2 elm trees in the driveway, 2/3rds cut and going to start splitting this weekend. Will probably end up being about 3 cords. I would love to get a full year ahead but don't have the room to stack it all.


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## Cluttermagnet (Jan 29, 2009)

Valhalla said:
			
		

> Clutter,
> 
> Round all your inches to the nearest foot. It will simplify your math.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I get it- close is probably good enough. So many odd sized piles here, I let my perfectionistic nature loose when I dragged my tape measure around last fall, and recorded all dimensions in inches. But it wasn't that difficult to convert to cubic feet later. You know, 3-4 cords is an impressive amount of cubic inches!  

Little did I know, when heating season came, it ended up that about half of my fuel was coming from gnarly junk wood, fresh split deadwood, loose wood piles, etc.- not from stacked wood. Once better organized, probably near all my fuel will be coming from stacks. Then figuring wood consumption will be easy.


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## Pagey (Jan 29, 2009)

This was a few weeks ago, and the pile has since grown by a couple of face cord.  I'll try to update the pics this weekend.


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## Cluttermagnet (Jan 29, 2009)

Nice job! Smaller splits, siding spaced so you get ventilation. Looks near- ideal.


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## firefighterjake (Jan 29, 2009)

My wood cutting/splitting operation has been put on hold until Spring due to the snow. I still have a few downed trees that I need to cut up and bring to my pile . . . right now I've got a little over 2 cord cut, split and stacked and maybe 3-4 cords bucked up in a pile. Come Spring my first task will be to split up the stacked wood. I figure 6 cords should be good for me.


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## cgeiger (Jan 29, 2009)

I'm planning to get out in the snow and start cutting some wood this weekend! I already have 2 cord toward next year split in the pile (covered). I plan to cut around 10 cord total this year so I can gradually work my way ahead and get caught up on a 2-year seasoning cycle. The 2 cord I have was cut and split last summer so it will have roughly 1.5 seasons to dry out.

I was also inspired by Pagey's pic to use T-posts to help keep the rows nice and tidy. Not sure if I'll get to the woodshed this year or not and, like everyone else, hate the tarps. I suppose you could run fence wire (american, chicken, etc.) around the outside of the t-posts and then secure the tarp on top (clips). Then you could open a side of the makeshift paddock when you're ready to rotate stacks or move indoors for the winter. Ahhh inspiration!


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## northwinds (Jan 29, 2009)

Great building for your wood, Pagey.  I'm tiring of battling my tarps and snow on the side of my piles.  Need to get
a wood shed project going this summer.


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## wendell (Jan 29, 2009)

> I was also inspired by Pagey’s pic to use T-posts to help keep the rows nice and tidy. Not sure if I’ll get to the woodshed this year or not and, like everyone else, hate the tarps. I suppose you could run fence wire (american, chicken, etc.) around the outside of the t-posts and then secure the tarp on top (clips) /quote]
> 
> 
> I don't have a picture unfortunately (as those stacks are almost gone) but I did what you mentioned this year, using T posts for support and using zip ties to attach plastic snow fence to support the stacks on the front and back and a thick plastic sheet on the top to keep the snow off.
> ...


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## wendell (Jan 29, 2009)

I guess I'm not smart enough to use the quote feature correctly. Sorry to be off topic but wondering why my response got included in the quote.


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## Pagey (Jan 29, 2009)

The wood you see in that pic is actually stored in a barn on my paternal grandmother's 80-acre cattle farm.  It just happened to be a helluva fine place to split and stack wood for the next heating season.  Dad was kind enough to put the home made splitter in the barn for me to use, not to mention letting me use the barn in the first place.  The posts came from an old fence row that we took up last winter/spring.  Dad's been working hard to get the place cleaned up over the last few years.

Barn:





Starting in October, I'll start migrating that wood to my shed at home, seen below:


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## Gooserider (Jan 30, 2009)

wendell said:
			
		

> I guess I'm not smart enough to use the quote feature correctly. Sorry to be off topic but wondering why my response got included in the quote.



The trick with the quote feature (and most of the other features) is to watch the "tags" - the little blocks of text in square brackets.  For quoting, they will say "quote" at the beginning, and "/quote" at the end (the first quote generated by the software when you use the Quote reply button will also have some other stuff in it)  Anything within a pair of blocks will be quoted, anything not in them won't be - what gets tricky is when you have a couple layers of quoting, or if you are breaking things up to mix your replies in with the quoted bits - what I will often do is hit the "Preview Post" button first to see if everything is right, then adjust the tags as needed - either moving them, or fixing an extra or missing slash...  It's hard to do an example since the software will insist on processing those tags...  :long: 

As to using T-posts (or pipes, etc) for the ends of stacks, one thing I've found useful that I didn't see Pagey doing is to tie a rope between them about 3-4 feet up.  Use a decent weather proof rope that won't stretch much (I tend to use ~1/4" poly rope, fairly strong and cheap) and tie it fairly snug across the top of the stack when you have it built up to the 3-4' level, (make the top as flat as you can) then keep on stacking on top of the rope, which will help to anchor it in place - this will help keep the T-posts from spreading under the load of the wood, and keeps you from needing to drive them in as deep.  You don't have to get the rope real tight, as the splits above will push it into the gaps in the row below, tightening it up and anchoring it even further.

Gooserider


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## Todd (Jan 30, 2009)

I have next years wood all cut, split and stacked as of last spring. Mostly Black Locust and some Elm and Boxelder. For the following season I have 2 cords of Oak so far. Once it warms up some I'll work on more. Also have plans for a wood shed attached to my garage, so I'll have to move alot of firewood around this spring to make room for the shed.


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## wendell (Jan 30, 2009)

> ...one thing I've found useful that I didn't see Pagey doing is to tie a rope between them about 3-4 feet up.  Use a decent weather proof rope that won't stretch much (I tend to use ~1/4" poly rope, fairly strong and cheap) and tie it fairly snug across the top of the stack when you have it built up to the 3-4' level, (make the top as flat as you can) then keep on stacking on top of the rope, which will help to anchor it in place - this will help keep the T-posts from spreading under the load of the wood, and keeps you from needing to drive them in as deep.



Just thought I'd practice quoting you. Thanks for the suggestion. I will definitely do that this year.

Looks like it worked this time. Not sure what I did different.


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## LLigetfa (Jan 30, 2009)

Gooserider said:
			
		

> wendell said:
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Hard but not impossible.

Example:
*[**quote author="Gooserider" date="1233298287"]*It's hard to do an example since the software will insist on processing those tags...  :long:*[**/quote]*


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## Gooserider (Jan 30, 2009)

LLigetfa said:
			
		

> Gooserider said:
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Cute trick, will have to remember that...

Gooserider


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## eba1225 (Jan 30, 2009)

Next years wood is stacked and drying, am now working on 2010/2011 wood.


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## cgeiger (Jan 30, 2009)

Gooserider said:
			
		

> wendell said:
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Good idea, Goose. I'll have to try that one once the ground thaws back out again.


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## WoodMann (Feb 2, 2009)

Gettin' a little better over here- I think I'll cut some bicuits. Just gotta watch that I don't over do it.............


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## WoodMann (Feb 4, 2009)

Cut a few biscuits yesterday, gettin' set for some 20* nights.........


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## btj1031 (Feb 7, 2009)

Here's my start on next year.  Bought this "cord" for $150 this fall.  All oak and maple.  Split it up over the past couple of weekends all by hand.  Nice small splits for the castine.  I'd say its closer to 1.2 cord.  There's 100 cubic feet on the front row, probably close to 50 cubic behind it.  Good deal, great wood.


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## WoodMann (Feb 7, 2009)

That is good wood- OUTSTANDING.........................


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## Der Fuirmeister (Feb 8, 2009)

fossil said:
			
		

> .......What do I have?  I have a problem with ludicrous, unsubstantiated declarative statements such as, "...the _fact_ that 80% of wood sellers are rip off artists...".  Where's your data?  That's just a dumb thing to say, IMO.  Rick




....and what does your problem have to do with the thread topic?


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## Gooserider (Feb 8, 2009)

J-Man said:
			
		

> Here's my start on next year.  Bought this "cord" for $150 this fall.  All oak and maple.  Split it up over the past couple of weekends all by hand.  Nice small splits for the castine.  I'd say its closer to 1.2 cord.  There's 100 cubic feet on the front row, probably close to 50 cubic behind it.  Good deal, great wood.



Nice stack.  The closer to 1.2 cord could be one of two factors, or a combination of them - either you have a very good wood guy, or your wood volume has effectively "grown" by the fact that you split it down.  

It's worth noting that in general, splitting wood into smaller peices makes it take up more room, so it's entirely possible that simply splitting your wood caused it to grow significantly  (Note guys, this only applies to FIREWOOD! %-P (figured I had to get the first shot at the bad jokes....))

Gooserider


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