# Blown fuse issues on Harman, Breckwell, Englander, or any stove.



## kinsmanstoves (Dec 5, 2012)

If you have a blown fuse issue on a stove do not just replace the fuse with another or larger fuse. There is a reason the fuse blew. Trace the problem and you will find the reason. Fuses do not blow with a power surge and the fuse does not get worn out and simply blow. The reason a fuse blows is that the circuit is drawing to many amps from one component or more. Yes there can be a ground issue such as not a grounded circuit or wiring issue. Time to pull out the meter and check motors and igniter. If you do not own a meter or know how to use one, do not open the back of your stove and call someone that knows what they are doing.

*NEVER REPLACE THE FUSE WITH A LARGER ONE OR WRAP IT IN FOIL.*


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## Harvey Schneider (Dec 5, 2012)

kinsmanstoves said:


> fuse does not get worn out and simply blow


Not always true. Fuses can, under some circumstances, fatigue from use. That being said, it is always wise to err on the side of safety and investigate the cause of failure before replacing a fuse.
Replacing a fuse with a larger size is like deciding that you know more about the circuit than the Engineers that designed the product. It just ain't so.
This is another circumstance where you can void the agency certification of the design and, therefore, be the cause of a fire. Insurance companies take a dim view of that behavior.


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## stoveguy2esw (Dec 5, 2012)

fuses generally protect against shorts to ground mostly though these would be "internal" shorts due to a grounded wire or a component which goes to ground internally. as above sometimes fuses can fatigue and fail just as a lightbulb burns out.

also, never install a fuse with a higher amp rating or voltage rating than the one supplied by the manufacturer. this is quite important as allowing too much current through a circuit board can cause damage to the board and they usually are not cheap.

usually my first step in assisting a customer with blown fuses is to disconnect unit from power and physically inspect each wire from componnent to board. in pellet stoves there are "hot spots" which if a wire were to come into contact with could melt the casing of the wire and allow it to ground to the chassis of  the unit. usually manufacturers will have restraints to prevent these wires from touching these hot spots but ocasionally they may still manage to get to them.

any troubleshooting beyond this should be performed by a technician or the owner should be at least guided by a tech in further troubleshooting.

remember also, while 110/60 will generally not kill you , it will "piss you off" at the speed of light, always doublecheck with each troubleshooting step that power is not connected with the unit


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## WoodPorn (Dec 5, 2012)

Harvey Schneider said:


> Not always true.* Fuses can, under some circumstances, fatigue from use.* That being said, it is always wise to err on the side of safety and investigate the cause of failure before replacing a fuse.
> Replacing a fuse with a larger size is like deciding that you know more about the circuit than the Engineers that designed the product. It just ain't so.
> This is another circumstance where you can void the agency certification of the design and, therefore, be the cause of a fire. Insurance companies take a dim view of that behavior.


 Fuses are to be sized and coordinated to allow for inrush, fatigue should not be a factor.


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## WoodPorn (Dec 5, 2012)

stoveguy2esw said:


> remember also, while 110/60 will generally not kill you


 
I hate to contradict you Mike, 110 is the leading killer (as it is most common).
As an Electrician, I can't let that one ride


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## stoveguy2esw (Dec 5, 2012)

WoodPorn said:


> I hate to contradict you Mike, 110 is the leading killer (as it is most common).
> As an Electrician, I can't let that one ride


 
yeah, your right, though if i had a nickle for every time one of these stoves had popped me for being stupid and not having the unit unplugged while i was working on it i'd be a rich man by now. still it is important to ensure that the unit is unplugged any time you are doing anything inside of it that has to do with proximity to wiring


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 5, 2012)

Bear gets popcorn and a brew, awaiting the possible ensuing exchange between an EE and an Electrician on fuses.

Mike,

I'm siding with WoodPorn on the comment you made about the 110/60, the utility companies usually take great pains in warn people to avoid down lines and keeping metal ladders away from all power lines feeding your house, as do electronics makers.

I'll agree that it will "piss you off" when you get zapped in a non lethal manner.


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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 5, 2012)

WoodPorn said:


> Fuses are to be sized and coordinated to allow for inrush, fatigue should not be a factor.


 

I been holding back.

Eric


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## Harvey Schneider (Dec 5, 2012)

WoodPorn said:


> I hate to contradict you Mike, 110 is the leading killer (as it is most common).
> As an Electrician, I can't let that one ride


110/60 is more dangerous than 240/60, 220/50 or DC. The only reason we have it is that Nicola Tesla decided that it is the ideal compromise for power transmission and utilization. DC and the higher Voltages effectively clamp muscles in a contracted state and when you fall over the muscles resume working (most of the time). 110/60 is more likely than the others to put your heart in a fibrillation, whether you fall over or not. Of course it depends on the shock pathway. Any shock that passes a current through your heart (right hand to left foot for instance) puts you at risk. A shock from right hand to right wrist will just piss you off.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 5, 2012)

Just for giggles I'll toss out repeated expansion and contraction related to temperature changes.


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## Harvey Schneider (Dec 5, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> Just for giggles I'll toss out repeated expansion and contraction related to temperature changes.


That would be the primary cause of fuse fatigue. Fast fuses suffer from this with short duration pulsed loads, but medium delay and slow blow shouldn't be bothered by this unless the design is right against the margins of the fuse rating.
Of course turning on a 300W igniter for ten minutes and then turning it off for hours is not being kind to the fuse. Fuses are really low value wire resistors that melt when they get too hot. Drastically changing loads cause them to heat up and cool down. The cycle causes mechanical fatigue of the resistance wire we call a fuse.


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## WoodPorn (Dec 5, 2012)

Oh jeez here we go....

Thanks Bear


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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 5, 2012)

I am no where the electrical skills of you fast talkers big word users but everything I was taught about fuses related to pellet stoves, there is no such thing as fuse "fatigue".

Eric


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 5, 2012)

And what would happen inside the shell of a heating device if it was repeatedly changing temperature due to temperature based t-stat calls?


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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 5, 2012)

I have been on numerous service calls over the past 7 years of working on pellet stoves and have yet to have a "worn out" or "fatigue" fuse without a problem to make the fuse fail.  There is a first for everything I guess. 

Eric


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## WoodPorn (Dec 5, 2012)

Harvey Schneider said:


> That would be the primary cause of fuse fatigue. Fast fuses suffer from this with short duration pulsed loads, but medium delay and slow blow shouldn't be bothered by this unless the design is right against the margins of the fuse rating.
> Of course turning on a 300W igniter for ten minutes and then turning it off for hours is not being kind to the fuse. Fuses are really low value wire resistors that melt when they get too hot. Drastically changing loads cause them to heat up and cool down. The cycle causes mechanical fatigue of the resistance wire we call a fuse.


 If this is the case,then why would a fuse (time delay for instance) rated at 15a, blow out before a wire rated for the same?
A fuse rated at 15 a is not going to blow at 15a unless it is an instantaneous.
An instantaneous fuse rated at 15a is in place to protect a load WELL under 15a, again fatigue should not be a factor.


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## WoodPorn (Dec 5, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> And what would happen inside the shell of a heating device if it was repeatedly changing temperature due to temperature based t-stat calls?


 STOP IT ur killin me


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## saladdin (Dec 5, 2012)

Harvey Schneider said:


> 110/60 is more dangerous than 240/60, 220/50 or DC. The only reason we have it is that Nicola Tesla decided that it is the ideal compromise for power transmission and utilization. DC and the higher Voltages effectively clamp muscles in a contracted state and when you fall over the muscles resume working (most of the time). 110/60 is more likely than the others to put your heart in a fibrillation, whether you fall over or not. Of course it depends on the shock pathway. Any shock that passes a current through your heart (right hand to left foot for instance) puts you at risk. A shock from right hand to right wrist will just piss you off.


 
That Tesla dude was one smart cookie. Doesn't get anywhere the credit he should. On a Mt. Rushmore of absolute geniuses his face would be there.


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## WoodPorn (Dec 5, 2012)

I thought Edison invented electricity


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 5, 2012)

WoodPorn,

Folks need to be careful equating causes for fuses to blow to just too much juice through the device. 

They are subject to non power related failure modes exactly like other items.

Any failure mode a fuse undergoes is going to eventually result in it being "blown" in the common sense view of a fuse that no longer allows current to flow through it.  A better description in some cases is it is broken.


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## SXIPro (Dec 5, 2012)

I thought it was amperge that killed you, not voltage.
Also, theoretically, couldn't constant vibration cause a fuse to fail before it's time? (Basic glass fuses, I mean)


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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 5, 2012)

It is not a power surge for the household current to blow a fuse it is the stove components drawing to much amps such as an igniter grounding out (igniter failure) or a blower shorting out, am I correct?

Eric


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## Eatonpcat (Dec 5, 2012)

Tesla...I know them, They toured with Alice Cooper in the 80's!!

I think I remember a fuse blowing during the concert, not sure if it was fatigue or not!


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## Delta-T (Dec 5, 2012)

...everytime a fuse blows an angel gets its wings.


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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 5, 2012)

Eatonpcat said:


> Tesla...I know them, They toured with Alice Cooper in the 80's!!
> 
> I think I remember a fuse blowing during the concert, not sure if it was fatigue or not!


 

Oh dear I see where this is going....  Just like the internet.  You can be looking up cyber schools for the kids and within three click be on a hardcore porn site.  Very similar here.

Eric


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## Eatonpcat (Dec 5, 2012)

We'll soon be talkin' about beer in tha Ash Can...My favorite topic by the way!


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## Delta-T (Dec 5, 2012)

kinsmanstoves said:


> Oh dear I see where this is going.... Just like the internet. You can be looking up cyber schools for the kids and within three click be on a hardcore porn site. Very similar here.
> 
> Eric


tell us more about this "internet" Eric....sounds fascinating


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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 5, 2012)

Ok class the internet is a very wicked place to be.  They talk about dirty stoves, blowers, and strange things with animals, mainly pigs.

Eric


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## Eatonpcat (Dec 5, 2012)

kinsmanstoves said:


> Ok class the internet is a very wicked place to be. They talk about dirty stoves, blowers, and strange things with animals, mainly pigs.
> 
> Eric


 
Now that's funny!!


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 5, 2012)

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct..._YDIBw&usg=AFQjCNFrJlg83SWW8B0VMoAEgeRx2zOjpA


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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 5, 2012)

^^ Has to be true if it is on the internet, correct?  Bonjour.  

Eric


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## Eatonpcat (Dec 5, 2012)

Way to get the thread back on topic Bear!!


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## Eatonpcat (Dec 5, 2012)

kinsmanstoves said:


> ^^ Has to be true if it is on the internet, correct? Bonjour.
> 
> Eric


 
Crap...That's funny too...Loved that commercial the first thousand times I saw it!!


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## Salty (Dec 5, 2012)

Make sure you always carry a fuse tester with you if you ever think a fuse is bad.


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## imacman (Dec 5, 2012)

WOW...what a thread! <gets 2nd bowl of popcorn and a cold drink>

Continue everybody


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## heat seeker (Dec 5, 2012)

I have replaced countless fuses in the shop that failed for no apparent reason other than fatigue. 

That said, here is a quote from the Bussman Fuse site:

"Do fuses fatigue and wear out over time - requiring them to be replaced?”

This perception is a hold over from years ago when fuses were commonly constructed using zinc
fuse elements. Zinc has a relatively low melting temperature and a high expansion coefficient.
Through repeated circuit energizing and de-energizing, the zinc elements would heat up and cool
down (expand and contract) causing them to fatigue over time and lower their current carrying
capacity.
This is NOT the case with modern, current-limiting fuses that are made with either silver or copper
fuse elements. These have a higher melting temperature than zinc and are not typically
susceptible to fatiguing over time.
Your modern, current-limiting fuses should retain their performance characteristics for the life of
the installation under normal operating conditions and proper sizing methods for the application.
We frequently get reports that our current-limiting fuses are still working fine forty or fifty years
after being installed.
There is no recommended replacement schedule for our fuses. When properly applied, they retain
their performance characteristics until they are called upon to interrupt an overcurrent event –
then they open and need replacing. We hope this gives you a clearer understanding of how fuses
operate and how the old perception of fuse fatigue developed.
If you have any questions about this information or about overcurrent protection in general, please
contact us at:
Phone: 636-527-1270
Fax: 636-527-1607
Email: fusetech@cooperindustries.com


Having thrown my share of gasoline on this fire, I hastily withdraw...


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## WoodPorn (Dec 5, 2012)

heat seeker said:


> I have replaced countless fuses in the shop that failed for no apparent reason other than fatigue.
> 
> That said, here is a quote from the Bussman Fuse site:
> 
> ...


Hmmmm sounds like post #4?

Where's Harvey?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 5, 2012)

Hey that is a good one heat seeker,in  that one you have the admission that fuse fatigue happens/happened but the claim theirs no longer has that problem..

However that doesn't appear to hold up in various studies that have been published dealing with fuse failures.

The other thing I haven't seen mentioned much is the case that prompts this line:  A quick acting fuse will be protected by the highly expensive component it was designed to protect burning out first.

That is to say a fuse that fails to act when it should. 

Perhaps this case can account for the loss of controllers after repeated convection blower shutdowns or failures.

Ain't electronic/electric stuff a blast?


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## WoodPorn (Dec 5, 2012)

I've seen a surge blow fuses/trip breakers


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## DexterDay (Dec 5, 2012)

I miss all the good stuff... Bonjour!! Love it.  

Sorry.  Back to fuses and chit.


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## Harvey Schneider (Dec 5, 2012)

heat seeker said:


> That said, here is a quote from the Bussman Fuse site:


That's like asking OJ did you do it. Bussman is a good company and makes a good product. They cannot, however, publicly admit to a weakness that their competitors haven't admitted to. In a well designed circuit their fuses will last the life of the product. Not all products are well designed.
Careful design can eliminate fuse fatigue, but companies are usually more interested in cost effective design. That involves compromises that result in an "acceptable" failure rate. I have seen power supply design that brings the fuse close to its failure limit on every power on cycle. The manufacturer considered it acceptable because actual failure was several years out, clearly beyond the warranty limit. What they were doing wasn't considered wrong. They were giving their customers acceptable performance at an aggressive price.  In commercial product design, where production volumes are large, saving $0.10 on a design makes an Engineer a hero. 
So what does this have to do with pellet stoves? I forget.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 5, 2012)

I've seen breakers fail to trip and in fact there was an entire line of breakers made by Federal Pacific Electric that developed a reputation for failures, seems they didn't fully conform to certain UL test  criteria, there was never a recall issued however.

http://inspectapedia.com/fpe/CPSCsummary.htm#H1


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 5, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> I miss all the good stuff... Bonjour!! Love it.
> 
> Sorry. Back to fuses and chit.


 
Unfortunately while there is a lot of crud on the Internet there are also a lot of good solid information.

Having been an affiliate member of the IEEE (I couldn't be a full member because I wasn't an EE) I have a little more faith in that first report I provided a link to than most.

The party who put it together is a certified reliability engineer.


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## heat seeker (Dec 5, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> I've seen breakers fail to trip and in fact there was an entire line of breakers made by Federal Pacific Electric that developed a reputation for failures, seems they didn't fully conform to certain UL test criteria, there was never a recall issued however.


 
That's why I'd rather have a fuse panel than a breaker panel. Alas, I have a breaker panel with 40 breakers in it. This place is pretty over-wired, but the distribution is pretty stupid in places.


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## boosted3g (Dec 5, 2012)

Federal Pacific made better welding equipment than breakers.  When we had the great floods of 2011 my buddy has 6 feet of water in his basement and not a single breaker tripped.  The fire department came to pump out the basement and when they saw that they wouldnt touch a thing.  After the water was pumped out i was turning everything back on with a broom handle.  Do you know how hard it is to start a well pump with a broom handle?  not a good time

My favorite color is blue so those are the fuses i always use.


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## Countryboymo (Dec 5, 2012)

In my opinion Edison and tesla are both very important.   Edison was kind of like Henry Ford... and Tesla was kind of like Carol Shelby except impacting electricity instead of automobiles.


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## letsblaze (Dec 6, 2012)

this thread just remineded me I still need to put on in my stove. :facepalm:


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## Eatonpcat (Dec 6, 2012)

People tell me that I have a short Fuse...Is the short fuse credited to Edison, Tesla or Ben Franklin (Yes I still believe the kite story!  )???

Also can my short fuse be fatiguedor not??


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## WoodPorn (Dec 6, 2012)

Eatonpcat said:


> People tell me that I have a short Fuse...Is the short fuse credited to Edison, Tesla or Ben Franklin (Yes I still believe the kite story!  )???
> 
> *Also can my short fuse be fatigued or not*??


 
Viagra?


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## WoodPorn (Dec 6, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> I've seen breakers fail to trip and in fact there was an entire line of breakers made by Federal Pacific Electric that developed a reputation for failures, seems they didn't fully conform to certain UL test criteria, there was never a recall issued however.
> 
> http://inspectapedia.com/fpe/CPSCsummary.htm#H1


 
FPE...also known in my circle as:

Forever
Powered
Electric

Welding Equipment for sure!


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## saladdin (Dec 6, 2012)

Salty said:


> Make sure you always carry a fuse tester with you if you ever think a fuse is bad.


 
Suggest one?


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## WoodPorn (Dec 6, 2012)




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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 6, 2012)

WoodPorn said:


>


That will cover a lot of fuses.

Eric


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 6, 2012)

Eatonpcat said:


> People tell me that I have a short Fuse...Is the short fuse credited to Edison, Tesla or Ben Franklin (Yes I still believe the kite story!  )???
> 
> Also can my short fuse be fatiguedor not??


 
Frequently a short fuse is attributed to high blood pressure, a type a personality, or not having been put on a choke chain as a younger trouble maker.

In your case likely more than one condition is involved ........... Bear running for the exit .............. >


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 6, 2012)

saladdin said:


> Suggest one?


 
Destructive or nondestructive


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## WoodPorn (Dec 6, 2012)

kinsmanstoves said:


> That will cover a lot of fuses.
> 
> Eric


 Perfectly sized pre-cut for the 13,8kv fuses in my bldg!


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 6, 2012)

Seriously, folks you should check out each of the motor and the igniter circuits for electrical faults before just replacing a fuse and giving it the ole magic smoke test.

A fuse is a safety device and its blowing is a warning that something isn't exactly right.

You never try bypassing a fuse with wire, foil wrap, spent .22 cartridges, or pennies, doing so can cost you big time.

One other thing  *working with electrical systems is dangerous do all work with the stove unplugged until it is time to test a new fuse out and then keep your hands out of the stove* .

(This reminds me of an old electronics device technician's advice to wear rubber soled footwear, and rubber gloves, don't stand in water, and keep one hand in your pocket at all times when the other is inside the case doing in circuit testing with the cord plugged in).


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## WoodPorn (Dec 6, 2012)

Sound advice Bear...


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## Harvey Schneider (Dec 6, 2012)

A worthwhile endeavour is to catalog the dc resistance of each of the circuits in your stove. There aren't that many of them, and knowing what the resistance should be can help pinpoint the cause of a failure when it happens. You will be able to recognize when something has changed. Motor and igniter resistances are the obvious ones to measure. Switches and thermocouples should be almost zero Ohms, but should be isolated from ground.
*Make sure that the stove is unplugged before making any resistance measurements. *


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## Harvey Schneider (Dec 6, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> one hand in your pocket


Words to live by.
I used to work on serious power supplies; up to 47KV and up to 5KW. These were supplies that would reach out and grab you. We worked with a "chicken stick" (a grounding rod) and one hand in the pocket.


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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 6, 2012)

Just make sure it is your pocket and not your "Buddies" pocket.

Eric


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## WoodPorn (Dec 6, 2012)

What if my buddies are in my pocket?


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## heat seeker (Dec 6, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> (This reminds me of an old electronics device technician's advice to wear rubber soled footwear, and rubber gloves, don't stand in water, and keep one hand in your pocket at all times when the other is inside the case doing in circuit testing with the cord plugged in).


 
We also had to wear shoes with no nails in the heels. Nails shorten the path to ground through the feet.


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## letsblaze (Dec 6, 2012)

What fuse should my englander take?


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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 6, 2012)

WoodPorn said:


> What if my buddies are in my pocket?


 

Dont ask dont tell


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## Harvey Schneider (Dec 6, 2012)

letsblaze said:


> What fuse should my englander take?


That should be marked on the end cap of the fuse. The manual says "A 6-amp “quick-blow” fuse (Part # PU-CBF6) is used
on this Control Board." (25pdvc)


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## WoodPorn (Dec 6, 2012)

letsblaze said:


> What fuse should my englander take?


 
From Englander:
*PU-CBF Control Board Fuse (1 lb. each)
$6.16 *
Fuse for Control Board. Box of 5. 
NOTE: 6 amp fuse, all control boards can take this 6 amp fuse.
If purchasing locally, ask for a 6 amp, 120 Volt fuse. 
[Add to Cart] [View Cart]


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## WoodPorn (Dec 6, 2012)

Sorry Harvey beat me to it...


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## Eatonpcat (Dec 6, 2012)

That's cause you had to find that picture!!


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## Harvey Schneider (Dec 6, 2012)

WoodPorn said:


> NOTE: 6 amp fuse, all control boards can take this 6 amp fuse.
> If purchasing locally, ask for a 6 amp, 120 Volt fuse.
> [Add to Cart] [View Cart]


But those look like 5 amp fuses


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## WoodPorn (Dec 6, 2012)

Copied from Englander, Yes the case reads GMA 5


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## Harvey Schneider (Dec 6, 2012)

WoodPorn said:


> Copied from Englander, Yes the case reads GMA 5


And then we wonder why fuses occasionally fail for no obvious reason.


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## stoveguy2esw (Dec 6, 2012)

picture is an older one from before we had igniter stoves , back then we used 5 amp fuses,  the pu-cb04 board was designed to use the 6 amp fuse since adding the igniter adds a higher load to the start sequence. i never noticed that the picture was of the older 5 amp fuses until you brought it up.

the stove should use a 6 amp fuse


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## jtakeman (Dec 6, 2012)

One thing to watch on the fuses, Some controllers are rated for 240V and so is the fuse. So when you try to get a replacement local. You might only find a 120V fuse. Both maybe rated for 6 amps. But guess what the 120V will do?


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## Delta-T (Dec 6, 2012)

remember to always lick your fingers before....wait a second, scratch that, reverse it...never lick your fingers before changing a fuse. thats my advice for the day.


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## letsblaze (Dec 6, 2012)

Harvey, my stove currently does not have one. I bought it used and realized someone placed a jumper in its place.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 6, 2012)

jtakeman said:


> One thing to watch one the fuses, Some controllers are rated for 240V and so is the fuse. So when you try to get a replacement local. You might only find a 120V fuse. Both maybe rated for 6 amps. But guess what the 120V will do?


 
Poof.


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## heat seeker (Dec 6, 2012)

I think that it will still protect the circuit just fine. The voltage rating is used for the interrupt rating of the fuse, so the voltage rating is important, but I'm not sure if it matters a whole lot from 120 to 240. Amperage is amperage, and that is what will blow the fuse. The voltage rating comes into play when the fuse actually blows. In these small circuits, it might not be that important - but then again…maybe...


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## jtakeman (Dec 6, 2012)

heat seeker said:


> I think that it will still protect the circuit just fine. The voltage rating is used for the interrupt rating of the fuse, so the voltage rating is important, but I'm not sure if it matters a whole lot from 120 to 240. Amperage is amperage, and that is what will blow the fuse. The voltage rating comes into play when the fuse actually blows. In these small circuits, it might not be that important - but then again…maybe...


 
Smokeys right! Poof. Almost tossed the board thinking it was toast after checking every circuit(2x) and popped the fuse on start up. Took a look at the old fuse and saw the 250V rating. Also saw a number on it and hit digikey. Order a few and was in business as soon as the new ones arrived. Just passing it on so you all don't have less hair! Be sure you have the correct fuse!


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## Harvey Schneider (Dec 6, 2012)

heat seeker said:


> I think that it will still protect the circuit just fine. The voltage rating is used for the interrupt rating of the fuse, so the voltage rating is important, but I'm not sure if it matters a whole lot from 120 to 240. Amperage is amperage, and that is what will blow the fuse. The voltage rating comes into play when the fuse actually blows. In these small circuits, it might not be that important - but then again…maybe...


A 240 rated fuse is fine on a 120 circuit. A 120 rated fuse should not be used on a 240V circuit. The Voltage rating has to do with the ability of the fuse to quench the arc that occurs when the fuse blows. If the fuse is under-rated on Voltage it may not extinguish the current as quickly. This is less of a problem on AC than on DC because the Voltage drops to zero 120 times per second giving the arc an opportunity to stop. Personally I wouldn't do it. One should never use low Voltage fuses (like 24V fuses) on line Voltage circuits.


letsblaze said:


> Harvey, my stove currently does not have one. I bought it used and realized someone placed a jumper in its place.


Go to Radio Shack and buy some. You might even be able to get them at HD.


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## heat seeker (Dec 6, 2012)

Harvey said it better than I did - that's what I was trying for.


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## smwilliamson (Dec 6, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> And what would happen inside the shell of a heating device if it was repeatedly changing temperature due to temperature based t-stat calls?





SmokeyTheBear said:


> And what would happen inside the shell of a heating device if it was repeatedly changing temperature due to temperature based t-stat calls?


Energizing a cartridge heater generally does not stress out the core since it is heating from the center out evenly. However, many stoves take cooler air over the element unevenly and during the cooling phase one side of the element is slightly cooler than the other which causes the element to bent and ultimately break. And I will add that 9 out of 10 times when a fuse blows during startup it is the igniter which is to blame.


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