# Log skidding,Never done it,  tips, and advice



## HDRock (Dec 16, 2012)

Until I got on this forum ,I didn't even know what skidding was, but now I need to drag some stuff out into the open to cut n load, split at home ,elect splitter.
I don't plan on buying a bunch of stuff to do it,   except,   I'm going to see. a guy tomorrow with used chain and cable, at a very good price,I have 100ft of big fat rope, and a jeep.

 Any thing U can think of I should know ,Does,Don'ts, what ever


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## Kenster (Dec 16, 2012)

Can you build a sled out of two by fours?  Drag that with your jeep.   It would keep your logs out of the mud and dirt.   Some of the members here have built them and use them with tractors or  ATVs.


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## HDRock (Dec 16, 2012)

Kenster said:


> Can you build a sled out of two by fours? Drag that with your jeep. It would keep your logs out of the mud and dirt. Some of the members here have built them and use them with tractors or ATVs.


 
Hmmm, something like these pallets, but don't know if it would be worth the effort cuz trees are already on the ground


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## Backwoods Savage (Dec 16, 2012)

First off I don't like dragging logs on the ground because it gets dirt in the bark which will really dull your chain fast. Also, the logs drag easier using a dray or sled. I built this dray using nothing but scrap lumber. The two landscape timbers were 2 that I picked up from a neighbor who said, "Take them." I did buy some bolts and the total cost was less than $10. Skidding with this is super easy. You probably notice I put eyebolts on both sides so we can use a ratchet strap to tie down the logs. Using this dray I never had to use 4wd even going through some mud and even on the uphill grades. Loading it is easy. Many times you can just lift one end of a log and put it on then lift the other end. If you have a bad back like me, it is even simplier to just use a cant hook for loading.

If you do have to drag some out to the dray, then a small chain with a grab hook on one end and a slip hook on the other works great.


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## HDRock (Dec 16, 2012)

Well   The pallets are like a ready made sled, flip it over trim and lighten it up, shape the front of skids, and if you look close U can see the bolts are already in there.

I was thinking, cuz the trees are on the ground, there will be dirt stuck to bottom and , while bucking, maybe I could cut part way through the top , roll the log , wire brush dirt off where cut will be and finish cut.
Do ya think it's worth the effort ????


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## Backwoods Savage (Dec 16, 2012)

Sorry, I should have got a picture of the front of the dray. The front of those landscape timbers are slanted and if you use your pallet idea you will want to do the same thing to keep them from digging into the ground. 

What you are describing with the cut and roll is exactly what we were doing this past week with some old white oak. When it is old like that, usually it is quite easy to use an axe to chop it off as the bark will tend to be pretty loose and punky. So just scrape off where you need to cut and all is well.


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## oldogy (Dec 16, 2012)

A short hitch around the log tends to lift the log, reduces the amount the leading edge of the log will plow into the ground, get hooked up on a stump or root. And if pulling with a tractor be aware that if the log gets hung up on an object the tractor can "walk the ring gear" and flip backwards.


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## HDRock (Dec 16, 2012)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Sorry, I should have got a picture of the front of the dray. The front of those landscape timbers are slanted and if you use your pallet idea you will want to do the same thing to keep them from digging into the ground.
> 
> What you are describing with the cut and roll is exactly what we were doing this past week with some old white oak. When it is old like that, usually it is quite easy to use an axe to chop it off as the bark will tend to be pretty loose and punky. So just scrape off where you need to cut and all is well.


 
That's what I meant by shaping the front, like the front of sled runners, cut a 45 or so on em
Geez   I didn't even think of knocking the bark off, with a hatchet or axe to make the cut, and ya the bark is loose
 8ft log  5 cuts, roll log, knock off bark , finish

I was tuning my saw couple days ago ,on the ground got it in the dirt very briefly , had to clean (used brake cleaner) and blow off,saw,bar and chain, re grease, what a mess


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## bogydave (Dec 16, 2012)

Sometimes I use a pulley chained up high & pull the logs with the truck right to the trailer.




Sometimes all the way with the ATV


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## HDRock (Dec 16, 2012)

bogydave said:


> Sometimes I use a pulley chained up high & pull the logs with the truck right to the trailer.
> 
> View attachment 85305
> 
> ...


I saw the deal ya made for the back ,in another thread
Wish I had an ATV ,(had one ,long time ago)I would take it out there 5 mi away and  drag all the stuff out, take it back home


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## albert1029 (Dec 16, 2012)

Backwoods Savage said:


> I built this dray using nothing but scrap lumber


nice job...simple and effective...


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## mywaynow (Dec 16, 2012)

If you drag them out on the ground, you need to clean the bark.  I found that my 3000 psi power washer will draw water from a tub allowing me to power wash without plumbing.  I filled some tubs and trailed the tubs and powerwasher to the log area and powerwashed the bark before cutting.  You won't get 4 cuts before you are dull if you don't clean the dirt from the bark.


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## HDRock (Dec 18, 2012)

Backwoods Savage said:


> First off I don't like dragging logs on the ground because it gets dirt in the bark which will really dull your chain fast. Also, the logs drag easier using a dray or sled. I built this dray using nothing but scrap lumber. The two landscape timbers were 2 that I picked up from a neighbor who said, "Take them." I did buy some bolts and the total cost was less than $10. Skidding with this is super easy. You probably notice I put eyebolts on both sides so we can use a ratchet strap to tie down the logs. Using this dray I never had to use 4wd even going through some mud and even on the uphill grades. Loading it is easy. Many times you can just lift one end of a log and put it on then lift the other end. If you have a bad back like me, it is even simplier to just use a cant hook for loading.
> 
> If you do have to drag some out to the dray, then a small chain with a grab hook on one end and a slip hook on the other works great.
> 
> ...


 
Although that dray would work best with an ATV ,

I still think it might work. To pull some logs out from where I can't get in which the Jeep, And also keep from getting more dirt and mud Into the logs .

How does it do running over other sticks in crap laying on the ground ??

How long is that one you built, and what size. stock did you use for the top pieces ??

 Did you use lag type eye bolts or drill  through with nuts ??

I have a bunch of pallets with two by sixes and such, 2x6 , would be good for the top, I would think
.
The pallets in the picture I put up, I had to cut smaller at the site be able to pick him up and load them, I can get more which have longer skids on them, I would just take them apart on site instead of cutting them up.


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## BillsWS (Dec 18, 2012)

Take apart a couple of the long pallets you mention you can get.  Double up the long 2 x 4 sides for your dray.  Nail or bolt them together.  Bevel the front and rear bottom edge (like a sled).  Once you start building it, ideas will flow, and you will make due with what you have from the pallets or laying around.  Good luckl with the project, sounds fun.  Be sure to take a few pictures to post for your buddies on Hearth.com.


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## Backwoods Savage (Dec 18, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Although that dray would work best with an ATV ,
> 
> I still think it might work. To pull some logs out from where I can't get in which the Jeep, And also keep from getting more dirt and mud Into the logs .
> 
> ...



I'll try to remember to take a couple other pictures today if possible. The dray can be made to practically any size and we used to haul a larger one behind a tractor. We even had a big one we hauled behind a dozer when a tractor would not work. Naturally as you would expect, that was in some terrible mud. But yes, the size I built is about right for the atv and pulls amazingly easy. That is one of the big benefits of a dray. It has no problem going over any crap on the ground but I don't think I've went over anything over 4 or 5." I used lag type eye bolts but if I ever replace then I would go with bolt type. 2 x 6 were used for the top pieces and the size was determined more from the size I had laying around. It could easily be built wider with no problem.


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## charly (Dec 18, 2012)

bogydave said:


> Sometimes I use a pulley chained up high & pull the logs with the truck right to the trailer.
> 
> View attachment 85305
> 
> ...


Hopefully no rigging fails or it could be windshield time,,,,yikes


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## KenLockett (May 29, 2013)

Backwoods Savage said:


> First off I don't like dragging logs on the ground because it gets dirt in the bark which will really dull your chain fast. Also, the logs drag easier using a dray or sled. I built this dray using nothing but scrap lumber. The two landscape timbers were 2 that I picked up from a neighbor who said, "Take them." I did buy some bolts and the total cost was less than $10. Skidding with this is super easy. You probably notice I put eyebolts on both sides so we can use a ratchet strap to tie down the logs. Using this dray I never had to use 4wd even going through some mud and even on the uphill grades. Loading it is easy. Many times you can just lift one end of a log and put it on then lift the other end. If you have a bad back like me, it is even simplier to just use a cant hook for loading.
> 
> If you do have to drag some out to the dray, then a small chain with a grab hook on one end and a slip hook on the other works great.
> 
> ...


 
Backwoods, do you have eye hooks on the front of the dray where the 45 Deg ends are.  Trying to figure how and where you attached the chains.  Thanks.


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## Backwoods Savage (May 29, 2013)

Yes Ken. If you would like some close up shots let me know and I'll get them tomorrow.


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## osagebow (May 29, 2013)

One of the many great safety tips from here is to drape a coat over a pulling rope/chain. If it snaps, the coat makes the rope fall instead of becoming a missle.


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## Shane N (May 29, 2013)

If you can build a dray for them, that would be much better than dragging directly on the dirt. The last 4 cords I cut were all dragged and rolled around in the dirt. It dulled the chain after the first cut. I didn't realize how bad it was until I finished those 4 cords and started cutting freshly felled trees. The chain was still as sharp as when I started after bucking an entire tree.


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## charly (May 30, 2013)

osagebow said:


> One of the many great safety tips from here is to drape a coat over a pulling rope/chain. If it snaps, the coat makes the rope fall instead of becoming a missle.


Great tip! I'll be sure to bring along a coat.


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## charly (May 30, 2013)

When I cleared the land for our first home that was built,, the wife hauled the brush to the woods and I stacked the butt wood into piles as I cut.. We had no equipment back then,, cleared about 3 acres all by hand ,, took all summer but we were excited to be building a log home at the time... My excavation guy took his bull dozer and gently pushed all my wood plies into a few big piles off to one side.,,, little did I know how much dirt would be left on the logs... To cut them I wound up using my pressure washer and cleaning the dirt off... That was a lesson I never forgot...been there done that! A friend who use to have an outdoor boiler was bragging to me how a friend was bringing him 3 huge roll off dumpsters full of locust... Well he wasn't lying,, they came and were all full of dirt... He bought a chain sharpener and a bunch of chains,,, he spent more time swapping out chains then cutting until I finally convinced him to get his pressure washer going...then he got some wheres.


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## captjack (May 30, 2013)

The only advise I have if your pulling stuff with that grizzly is to use low gear !!    You will take out the one-way bearing that controls your engine braking.    dont ask me how I know this -haha   my griz 700 is at about 3800 miles so far and I am an expert at changing that bearing now.


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## Jags (May 30, 2013)

charly said:


> Great tip! I'll be sure to bring along a coat.


 
A heavy old blanket will also work.


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## lukem (May 30, 2013)

What size of chain/cable are you planning on using?  Make sure you are sized appropriately for you vehicle and load.


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## Backwoods Savage (May 30, 2013)

captjack said:


> The only advise I have if your pulling stuff with that grizzly is to use low gear !! You will take out the one-way bearing that controls your engine braking. dont ask me how I know this -haha my griz 700 is at about 3800 miles so far and I am an expert at changing that bearing now.


 
That's interesting Jack. One thing I will say though is that when we pull logs (on the dray) out of the woods we rarely even have to use 4 wheel drive. It simply pulls that easy, so I see no reason there should be a problem and why a problem with that particular bearing. However, your griz has a few more miles than ours. 99% of the miles put on it is right here on our own place doing work.

I might add that about the only time I use low gear is when pulling equipment working up ground. Then it is a must to use low range.


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## Backwoods Savage (May 30, 2013)

Jags said:


> A heavy old blanket will also work.


 
Or a tarp.


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## KenLockett (May 30, 2013)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Yes Ken. If you would like some close up shots let me know and I'll get them tomorrow.


 

If you have time I would definitely like to see some closeup shops.  Thanks.


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## Flatbedford (May 30, 2013)

I like the high pulley trick Bogy Dave


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## Ashful (May 31, 2013)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Or a tarp.



Or a small child.


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## captjack (May 31, 2013)

Backwoods-   it will pull stuff all day long in high gear - i used mine to pull a decoy trailer for goose hunting    It pulled fine but after a while the engine break stopped working.  I have had to replace the bearing a few times.
 I do a lot of riding with it and belong to several atv forums   grizzlycentral.com is a good source for info.   Its the best atv I have ever owned as far as riding goes - its just not a tractor  even though i treat it like one most of the time     haha


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## lukem (May 31, 2013)

This might just be my imagination here, but I find that if you undercut through dirty bark it doesn't dull the chain nearly as quick as if you are top cutting.  I'll generally top cut the clean side, roll it, then finish the cut with an undercut on the dirty side.


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## BobUrban (May 31, 2013)

in a pinch when you are putting a lot of strain on a winch cable or whatever in a pulling situation even laying some limbs or brush over the cable will provide some security VS. naked rope.  All you need is something to take advantage of gravity and eliminate the potential energy burst. 

Interesting info on the Grizz bearing - I use my 550 to haul things but it only has about 450mile on it in 3 years so I am not hauling a lot.  I was always worried about high revs running low gear but I will just take it slow.  I like the bearings that came in it - at least I like them for as long as I can preserve them


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## captjack (May 31, 2013)

the "one way bearing" as it is called by yammi is located in the  wet clutch system - it controls the engine braking on the griz - when it goes the engine braking stops - so when your going down a hill the bike will not slow down on its own.  easy to fix just annoying.


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## Backwoods Savage (May 31, 2013)

Jack, I still do not understand why pulling something would ruin the engine braking system. But even if you didn't have engine braking, would it still not work and only have to use the brake more?


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## Backwoods Savage (May 31, 2013)

KenLockett said:


> If you have time I would definitely like to see some closeup shops. Thanks.


 






Ken, I misled you on the eyebolts. As you can see I just put bolts with large washers to hold the chain. I took a close up of the cross beam. It does not show well but I left at least 1/2" of bolt up and the reason for this is to grab the log as you are rolling it on. If you were to build a large dray then you would recess the cross beams and also would want a couple short planks for rolling the logs up. We used to use the old teeth from the circular saws and drive them into some 2 x 6's and that gave us great gripping for loading the second tier of logs. You can also see the eye bolt and there is one on each side on the middle cross beam for hooking in to with a ratchet strap. A larger dray you would want to bolt a chain there. A short chain on each side then using a log binder to hold the load. I did not want to load but one tier of logs so not much strapping down is needed.

But as you can see, I built this about as simple as one could go, I think. It was just old lumber we had around so all I bought were a couple bolts.


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## jeffesonm (Jun 3, 2013)

I made a similar log sled using some old landscape timbers and a few bolts.... works great.  Easier to pull and keeps everything out of the dirt.  Plus you can get a few in one trip.


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## pyroholic (Jun 4, 2013)

It's not gravity that is the factor with the coat, tarp, towel, or small child. No way is a 2lb coat is going to overcome the thousands of pounds of potential energy released with a chain or cable break. The idea is that the coat greatly slows the speed of the slingshotted chain through wind drag.

Don't get me wrong, it works well and is important, just not using gravity.


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## Flatbedford (Jun 4, 2013)

I was always taught that the coat, tarp, floor mat, etc. makes the broken chain, rope, or wire drop to the ground where is _should_ be less lethal.


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## BobUrban (Jun 4, 2013)

Yea Flatbead - with gravity.  But I understand the point about stopping the slingshot but the tool used to stop it is gravity


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## Flatbedford (Jun 4, 2013)

I see what you mean now.


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## Ashful (Jun 4, 2013)

Not really sure I care why it works, just that it does.  Whenever I'm pushing a cable near its test strength, I'll have something dangling on it.  I do not do the same with chain, as I've always been taught that chain won't slingshot like cable.  I'm hoping that was good advice.


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## Flatbedford (Jun 4, 2013)

Being heavier, gravity will push chain to the ground and stop it sooner than it would rope or wire. Just keep in mind that when it does break, there will be lots of energy released. The stronger the broken component, the more force.


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## Ashful (Jun 4, 2013)

Flatbedford said:


> Being heavier, gravity will push chain to the ground and stop it sooner than it would rope or wire. *Just keep in mind that when it does break, there will be lots of energy released.* *The stronger the broken component, the more force.*


 

I'm not sure I agree with that. Energy released is a function of energy stored, which simply the product of work, force * displacement = stretch. Cable releases a bunch of energy on breakage because of stretch. If a chain does not stretch far before failing, then there's little energy to be released.

To put it in simpler terms everyone can understand, the failure of a vessel or hose containing incompressible hydraulic fluid at a few hundred PSI is fairly un-eventful. The fluid is incompressible, so there is no displacement, no work, no energy. The same failure of a vessel containing a compressible gas (air compressor) can be quite exciting / catastrophic. Same force, vastly different energy.

I'm not saying chain does or does not stretch equally to cable, just that your reasoning above is not correct.


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## Flatbedford (Jun 4, 2013)

If a wire rope with a SWL of 10,000 lbs breaks it will be flying through the air with much more force than one with a SWL of 3000 lbs.


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## TimJ (Jun 4, 2013)

we need Alex Johnson on this one


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## pyroholic (Jun 4, 2013)

Flatbedford said:


> Being heavier, gravity will push chain to the ground and stop it sooner than it would rope or wire. Just keep in mind that when it does break, there will be lots of energy released. The stronger the broken component, the more force.


 
Had a chain go through a windshield that broke truck on truck in mud.  Very much slingshot action.  It was when I was younger and dumber, but it can happen.


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