# Drolet ECO 65.



## DV (Feb 7, 2012)

Hi. Im new.  First post. I have just ordered the drolet eco 65. I will be installing it in my basement and using to help heat my house. Couple basic questions which im sure could be found searching the site but figure i would post anyway. Where would be the best place to find hearth pads and 4 inch piping? Also any advice would be great. Thanks.


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## smwilliamson (Feb 7, 2012)

This unit requires at least 3 feet of vertical venting AND 4" air intake


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## DV (Feb 7, 2012)

The 4inch air intake states it needs to be exterior are for mobile homes only. Is this correct or do all installations require exterior air?


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## Turbo-Quad (Feb 7, 2012)

Whate ever your manual says.  Even if it says you dont have to, it only makes sense to do it.  You wont regret it, big floor draft eliminator.  When I first started burning pellets I couldnt understand why the thermostat said 80 but I was freezing.  Hooked up the OAK and 80 feels like 80 now.


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## 76brian (Feb 7, 2012)

If you need a hearth pad, it's most economical to make your own. I made mine with 1 layer of 3/4" plywood on the bottom, then 2 layers of concrete board, then topped it off with ceramic floor tile. It was around $60 total. To buy one this size would be at least a few hundred bucks at a hearth shop. One layer of concrete board + tile is thick enough for specs, but I wanted it to be rigid enough to not flex if it's moved.

If you're installing in the basement, I would imagine you have a concrete floor somewhere, in which case you don't need a pad at all as long as any combustible flooring is outside of the clearance your stove requires. If you need it to look nice you can just put the tile directly on the concrete.


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## DV (Feb 7, 2012)

Great advice. Thank you. I m thinking of making a hearth pad with plywood and some leftover patio pavers i have.


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## DexterDay (Feb 7, 2012)

Been looking a this stove as a replacement to my Quad. 

Looking forward to some install pics and your thoughts.

Can you post pics of the inside of the stove? Possible heat exchanger pics and also pics of the burn pot?

Welcome to the Forums. Venting from the basement, I would run 4" (even if you could use 3", I wouldnt) vent and also an OAK of similar size. Heating from the basement can be difficult. The 65 is a big unit, with a large distribution blower. Are you gonna use the optional duct kit?

Is your basement area finished (insulated)? If the stove is going on concrete, you dont need a hearth. If going in a finished area, then make sure the Stove doesnt require a pad with a certain R value.

Congrats on the stove.....


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## DV (Feb 8, 2012)

I may use the optional duct kit not sure yet. Iwill install stove in my finished basement area of 650the square feet. The entire basement is insulated and approx 1300 square feet total.not all finished. For now i am going to install an open duct from the basement to my family room directly above the stove.i will experiment and see how well this works to determine if i need to install the duct to force the air upstairs. Once its installwd i will post pics.


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## Love the Heat (Feb 8, 2012)

DV said:
			
		

> I may use the optional duct kit not sure yet. Iwill install stove in my finished basement area of 650the square feet. The entire basement is insulated and approx 1300 square feet total.not all finished. For now i am going to install an open duct from the basement to my family room directly above the stove.i will experiment and see how well this works to determine if i need to install the duct to force the air upstairs. Once its installwd i will post pics.



DV...I'm about at the same stage as you are  with the same ECO-65.

Can you explain "open duct"???

in my case, I have also ordered the plenum kit and trying to find a magic answer
to see if I should or not hook it up to my existing duct system???

Cheers


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## DexterDay (Feb 8, 2012)

All I will say is, check local codes before you go blasting holes in the floor of your home. 

Even if its legal, they should be 10 ft away from the stove itself. There are ducts that have fusible links installed in them. So when they reach a certain temperature,  they shut themselves. So that the fire has no means of spreading through that hole and feeding the fire. 

Having a freestanding pellet stove for a few yrs and adding a pellet furnace this year. If you can duct that air to where you need it, you will be much happier. Trying to get heat to your living room, from the basement,may be challenging. But if its ducted there. It will be much easier and much more comfortable. IMO

Looking forward to both of your results. How you like them, and how the combustion trim on them work (2 blower exhaust/combustion system). That is a very nice stove, with some great features (>jealous<) ;-P


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## DV (Feb 8, 2012)

Love the Heat said:
			
		

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Yes. The open duct would be a vent register attached to the ceiling of my basement then a 2 foot section of sheet metal duct that then attaches to a vent register located on my family room floor. The idea would be to let the heat from the stove that builds up in the basement escape up through the duct into my family room directly above. The registers would also have the capability to shut for the summer. We did this at my cousins 2 story cabin with a wood furnace downstairs and it really helped move the heat to the second floor. I think it would also be effective in this application.


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## DV (Feb 8, 2012)

After a little more review. What I'm going to do first is install the stove and use my central air/heat pump fan motor to move the air aorund my house. I have a return in my basement as well as on my ground level floor. I'm hoping once I heat up the basement I can move the air around the house using the fan. I will experiment with shutting the upstairs return and adjusting different registers in my basement. Any advice would be great. Thanks again.


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## DexterDay (Feb 8, 2012)

Using the fan on the furnace and dragging the air through the cold air return, to the ducts. Will cool the air off considerably. Some people can makr it work. But of your ducts are not insulated, the heat loss will be very high.

Will decrease the temp in the basement. But wont raise the temp much upstairs.

It may work. But it might not. For most, it doesn't work. The temps are not as Hot by the time they hit the duct. Unless you duct it into them, using it as a furnace. Not trying to heat the basement room its in.

Good luck and keep us updated.


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## DV (Feb 8, 2012)

DexterDay said:
			
		

> Using the fan on the furnace and dragging the air through the cold air return, to the ducts. Will cool the air off considerably. Some people can makr it work. But of your ducts are not insulated, the heat loss will be very high.
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> Will decrease the temp in the basement. But wont raise the temp much upstairs.
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Gonna give it a shot. If it does not work I will install the duct kit and push the hot air directly upstairs. I know that will work. Gotta get the stove set up first.


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## pete324rocket (Feb 9, 2012)

I have the eco-45...pleased with it. Have made a boot that goes over the heat tubes in the front of the stove to a pipe the goes directly to the main floor above to old heat register cut in floor(stove in insulated basement). This is the only way we have been able to be efficient in heating the main floor properly-normal convection, adding fans, etc didn't cut it. Only direct piping will. Cold air register are essential thoughout house for return or that area won't heat up. Save time and install duct kit-it only makes sense.


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## Love the Heat (Feb 9, 2012)

pete324rocket said:
			
		

> I have the eco-45...pleased with it. Have made a boot that goes over the heat tubes in the front of the stove to a pipe the goes directly to the main floor above to old heat register cut in floor(stove in insulated basement). This is the only way we have been able to be efficient in heating the main floor properly-normal convection, adding fans, etc didn't cut it. Only direct piping will. Cold air register are essential thoughout house for return or that area won't heat up. Save time and install duct kit-it only makes sense.



Thx for your personal experience, really helps me in my decision.

with the ECO-65 and the duct kit, I think I will run 1 of the 2 run upstair and the other one in basement 
outside the furnace room. I have cold return throughout the house.
If my furnace room keeps getting too hot, I will do an opening in my return in that room as well.

thx again


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## DV (Feb 9, 2012)

pete324rocket said:
			
		

> I have the eco-45...pleased with it. Have made a boot that goes over the heat tubes in the front of the stove to a pipe the goes directly to the main floor above to old heat register cut in floor(stove in insulated basement). This is the only way we have been able to be efficient in heating the main floor properly-normal convection, adding fans, etc didn't cut it. Only direct piping will. Cold air register are essential thoughout house for return or that area won't heat up. Save time and install duct kit-it only makes sense.


Thanks for advice. I'm thinking my situation is very similar to yours. That duct kit comes off the stove with 2 registers. i wonder if they make one that has 1 register instead. I would only need 1.  If not I will have to install a 2 by 1 adaptor.


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## Love the Heat (Feb 9, 2012)

DV said:
			
		

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I'm no expert but working the physics of it, the fan CFM is to handle 2 registers so reducing it to 1 could maybe "choke" it
and increase the heat in the plenum way too much????

I would probably ask the question to DROLET on this one, they are pretty quick at answering question....
They told me to not run it into the cold air of my existing duct work, the heat dissipation would be too great
and loose too much of the generated heat...

Voila....


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## DexterDay (Feb 9, 2012)

Love the Heat said:
			
		

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Yep.... Using existing is not a good idea (as stated before) to much heat loss.....

Thats a Huge unit and if installed correctly (ducts going where heat is needed most) they should fit the bill just fine.

Going down to one duct may affect the blower as stated. The staic pressure may need to be in a certain range (my pellet furnace states the # in the manual). I would look in the manual or call Drolet. Worst case scenario. You run one duct upstairs and leave the other off and heat the basement. Or run both upstairs (or run the 2 small ducts together, to one large duct with the same surface area as the 2 little ones)?

Looking forward to your results. Cant wait to see the duct kit!


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## Love the Heat (Feb 9, 2012)

DexterDay said:
			
		

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Excellent suggestion Dexter..


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## DV (Feb 9, 2012)

Yes. Good stuff. It all makes sense to me. Good suggestions.


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## FyreBug (Feb 9, 2012)

Love the Heat said:
			
		

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The ECO-65 is not certified as an 'add-on' furnace. Therefore you can never hook this up to your current ductwork. The purpose of the ducting kit is for those who have a small house with electrical heat (no ductwork), mobile homes, cabins, warehouse office etc... to distribute the heat. 

The Fresh Air intake is also mandatory. The unit has to go through various tests and certifications and this is a requirement.


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## FyreBug (Feb 9, 2012)

Love the Heat said:
			
		

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And the answer is..... NO you cannot block one of the outlet and we cannot make one with just one outlet. Heating appliance are heavily regulated for safety etc... The reason there is 2 outlets and the front plate from the kit does not block 100% of the unit heat exchange exhaust is that if one outlet gets blocked for whatever reason the temps in the other outlet will not go past a certain safety level.


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## DV (Feb 9, 2012)

FyreBug said:
			
		

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Sounds correct to me. For my application the best bet would be to leave one duct open at the stove to heat basement and then run the other duct directly upstairs as Dexter stated.


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## pete324rocket (Feb 9, 2012)

The stove will make plenty of heat to heat the basement without the added outlet. Do what your brain says and put the heat where you live and need it to be comfortable. Blocking one hole off would not cause me to lose very much sleep, and you will find this out by trial.It is a more rugged stove than mine.It should be therefore at least more apt to handle this. May I suggest a magnetic temp gauge on the front of the stove for real safety.


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## FyreBug (Feb 9, 2012)

pete324rocket said:
			
		

> The stove will make plenty of heat to heat the basement without the added outlet. Do what your brain says and put the heat where you live and need it to be comfortable. Blocking one hole off would not cause me to lose very much sleep, and you will find this out by trial.It is a more rugged stove than mine.It should be therefore at least more apt to handle this. May I suggest a magnetic temp gauge on the front of the stove for real safety.



Of course the customer can do whatever they want. But keep in mind, these things must pass safety test. I saw this burn in the lab with all sorts of temp sensors all over the place. Blocking one hole will still register safe, but do you want to take the chance? Home & family is more important than any extra oomph of heat.

A second reason to alway follow MFG's recommendations is if an inspector comes by he may tell you to put the unit back as per MFG's recommendation. Thirdly if the house ever burns down because any heating appliances were modified beyond the MFG's recommendations your insurance might be disallowed. 

Just not worth it...


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## jtakeman (Feb 9, 2012)

I agree with pete, I would focus the heat where its most needed.

Send the heat upstairs. And because the stove doesn't have isolated return air. It will loop the upstairs air back to the basement anyway. So with that and the radient from it the basement will be warmed. Its exactly what I am doing with my stove and a modified duct setup. My near 2k sqft home is 72ÂºF up and 66ÂºF down.


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## pete324rocket (Feb 9, 2012)

If you have cold air returns in your house, you will feel a definite breeze from them air the air moves naturally, and you will understand how to tailor this setup for your needs. You want to be able to heat the house but use the lowest possible setting on the stove for efficiency and save money...and then you will be happy. Btw, I don't use a fresh air intake but I tried it and made no difference and got tired of the extra piping for no benefit that I could see.....but I do understand the reasoning...it just wasn't for me.


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## DV (Feb 9, 2012)

j-takeman said:
			
		

> I agree with pete, I would focus the heat where its most needed.
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> Send the heat upstairs. And because the stove doesn't have isolated return air. It will loop the upstairs air back to the basement anyway. So with that and the radient from it the basement will be warmed. Its exactly what I am doing with my stove and a modified duct setup. My near 2k sqft home is 72ÂºF up and 66ÂºF down.


Isolated return air?


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## DexterDay (Feb 9, 2012)

DV said:
			
		

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"Cold air return" . Like on your regular furnace.. Keeps the air isolated upstairs. Blows the hot air upstairs, and sucks from upstairs. Which keeps the basement out of the "loop". 

The pellet stove will force the hot air upstairs, but it wont be pulling return air, through an isolated line back to the stove... So its gonna be heating, the upstairs and downstairs. 

(Pretty surr thats what he meant?) I didnt put a Cold air return on my pellet furnace (even though there is provisions) for the main fact I can get the basement hotter than the upstairs. So I want to pull the hot air out of the basement and push it upstairs. Im heating both. But on purpose. Easier that way for me. Cheaper too... Wood is really cheap for me!! ;-P


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## DV (Feb 9, 2012)

DexterDay said:
			
		

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Gotcha. My regular furnace/heat pump has a cold air return in basement and main level tied into the same duct. I assumed this was what isolated return air was referring to just wasnt sure.


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## jtakeman (Feb 9, 2012)

DV said:
			
		

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Because you don't have a means to connect the return air straight to the stove. Your convection blower is going to suck the air from your basement area(not the upstairs). This we create a negative pressure in the basement. The cold air from upstairs will be drawn to the basement back to the stove convection path. Eventually it will circulate enough air to pull warmer air from upstairs to the basement area.

Probably best to leave the basement door open or put a louver in it to allow the cold air to return down there. 

I can't connect the return air to my stove either. But I want my basement warmed anyway. Plus like dex is doing. I can use my wood eater to warm the basement and with the pellet eater's running on low, The convection fan will draw the warmed air thru the stove and send it upstairs. But my pellet eater has plenty of power so I don't need to do this. But it is an option if pellet go thru the roof again. I can use the wood to ofset my pellet usage and still have a warm upstairs. The natural convection of my wood eater isn't the ticket. My basement would be roasting, While we would be freezing upstairs.


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## pete324rocket (Feb 9, 2012)

Our house was built with oil furnace in mind so there are hot and cold ducts through the house....with ductwork.


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## Love the Heat (Feb 9, 2012)

FyreBug said:
			
		

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Very good thank you.., sounds very logical to me and I know that you are the man (expert) on this one


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## pete324rocket (Feb 10, 2012)

It wouldn't hurt if you ran the stove without the hookups for awhile so that you got to know its parameters. That way, should trouble arise, you will be not stuck with blaming it on unknowns.


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## DV (Feb 10, 2012)

pete324rocket said:
			
		

> It wouldn't hurt if you ran the stove without the hookups for awhile so that you got to know its parameters. That way, should trouble arise, you will be not stuck with blaming it on unknowns.


Sounds good to me. I still have to get the stove set up. So I'm getting ahead of myself with the ducting. Sounds like that will be a summer project. By the time I find the time to get the stove set up it will be spring!!


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## jtakeman (Feb 10, 2012)

Spring? How can you stand it! I would be taking time off on the day job to get my toys in order! :cheese:

Priorities, NO????? ;-)


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## DV (Feb 10, 2012)

j-takeman said:
			
		

> Spring? How can you stand it! I would be taking time off on the day job to get my toys in order! :cheese:
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> Priorities, NO????? ;-)


Ha! I plan on building my hearth pad tonight. I ordered my vent piping so it should be in next week. When it arrives work will take a back seat for the day. Gotta get that bad boy in!!


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## herdfan2003 (Aug 28, 2013)

I know this is an old post but I would love to see pictures of how you all have this stove set up and opinions of it since installing...Thanks.


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## hyfire (Aug 28, 2013)

I have a brand new plenum kit if you want to save some cash i'll give you a good deal.


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## herdfan2003 (Aug 28, 2013)

hyfire said:


> I have a brand new plenum kit if you want to save some cash i'll give you a good deal.


 
If I decide to go with this I may get ahold of you thanks


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## hyfire (Aug 28, 2013)

Also you should know the Selkirk 4" pipe connector won;t fit this unit. As the eco-65 has a 4.020 outlet pipe diameter and the selirk will not go over it. You need the adjustable connector. Also the unit has 4 adjustable feet that you can level the unit upto about 1" in each corner. Also any of the wifi thermostats should work on this I have one similar to the 3m50 and it has millivolt output but you must supply a 24 volt power supply.

If you open the door it has a stainless steel baffle that moves around from shipping make sure its sitting square in the notches, mine was flying all over the place when I  was moving the stove around.


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## herdfan2003 (Aug 28, 2013)

hyfire said:


> Also you should know the Selkirk 4" pipe connector won;t fit this unit. As the eco-65 has a 4.020 outlet pipe diameter and the selirk will not go over it. You need the adjustable connector. Also the unit has 4 adjustable feet that you can level the unit upto about 1" in each corner. Also any of the wifi thermostats should work on this I have one similar to the 3m50 and it has millivolt output but you must supply a 24 volt power supply.


 
Ok, thanks. All the piping I have now is 3" so I would need to buy some anyway. Just need to pull the trigger on something. My P-38 heats the house pretty good but just cant get to the back bedrooms and bath.


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## hyfire (Aug 28, 2013)

That Eco-65 will dwarf the p38 in airflow capacity almost 500 cfm compare to 135 cfm...From all the reviews of the eco-65 everyone says ,its blasts the heat out and no one is complaining about them.


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## herdfan2003 (Aug 28, 2013)

hyfire said:


> I have a brand new plenum kit if you want to save some cash i'll give you a good deal.


 
 Why have you decided not to use the plenum? I would be putting this in the basement and I think it would work well for that application.


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## hyfire (Aug 28, 2013)

I only am using this  for one large area with no basement.


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## herdfan2003 (Aug 28, 2013)

phew, 4 inch vent kits aren't cheap. I have a spare 3'' for my Harman. Probably a bad idea to try to adapt it down?


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## hyfire (Aug 28, 2013)

herdfan2003 said:


> phew, 4 inch vent kits aren't cheap. I have a spare 3'' for my Harman. Probably a bad idea to try to adapt it down?


 

I;m not sure the inlet is 4" but inside the air inlet combustion fan is not sealed, it will just pick up any volume its requiring from the inside air, but I would consult with the manufacturer and ask.


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## hyfire (Aug 28, 2013)

Here are some more pics as you requested.


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## DexterDay (Aug 28, 2013)

Here is the bottom feed of the Enerzone (SBI stove) which is the same as a Drolet. This is off a smaller model, but still an awesome design and burns with the best of them 

Where the 65 has one clamp on the front, the Eurostar has 2 clamps, one on each side (that's why you don't see them)


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## herdfan2003 (Aug 28, 2013)

Thanks for the pictures guys. I've read on here where a 4" is vent should probably remain a 4" vent, just curious how much effect it would have if I reduced to a 3". I ask this because I'm cheap and already have the 3" kit.


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## herdfan2003 (Sep 2, 2013)

http://www.costco.ca/Drolet-ECO-65-Pellet-Stove.product.100002986.html

Found this at Costco. It comes with the plenum kit and free shipping. Is this a pretty good deal? Only other thing I would need to find is the 4" vent kit at a decent price. Anybody ever deal with Costco? If so, whats your opinion?


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## jtakeman (Sep 2, 2013)

herdfan2003 said:


> http://www.costco.ca/Drolet-ECO-65-Pellet-Stove.product.100002986.html
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> Found this at Costco. It comes with the plenum kit and free shipping. Is this a pretty good deal? Only other thing I would need to find is the 4" vent kit at a decent price. Anybody ever deal with Costco? If so, whats your opinion?



Price looks good to me. Cheapest I have seen so far. And the others don't include the plenum kit.

https://www.google.com/shopping/product/7213751694826384882?q=Drolet ECO-65&rlz=1C1ARAB_enUS474US519&oq=Drolet ECO-65&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&sa=X&ei=8P8kUvS1HPTHsATJ-YDwDA&ved=0CKYBEL4k


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## hyfire (Sep 2, 2013)

I don;t think they will ship that stove to the USA from Costco, as it is not on the USA website. That is a good price, but you might have to call them to see if its available.


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## DV (Sep 4, 2013)

Here is a pic of mine. The 5 inch duct goes directly upstairs to my family room. It heats my whole house. Thats a good deal from costco. I actually got mine from on sale at Northern Tool for $1,999. But that was in 2011. The same stove is now $ 2,599.99.


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## herdfan2003 (Sep 4, 2013)

Thanks for the pic, nice set up and nice buck. Is that the plenum kit they sent you or did you make your own. Also where did you find 4" vent pipe at a decent price?


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## hyfire (Sep 4, 2013)

DV said:


> Here is a pic of mine. The 5 inch duct goes directly upstairs to my family room. It heats my whole house. Thats a good deal from costco. I actually got mine from on sale at Northern Tool for $1,999. But that was in 2011. The same stove is now $ 2,599.99.


What is your overall opinion of the stove, anything that new owners should be concerned  about?  How much air comes out of that 1 vent? I find it hard to believe 1 vent heats the whole house????


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## jtakeman (Sep 4, 2013)

hyfire said:


> What is your overall opinion of the stove, anything that new owners should be concerned  about?  How much air comes out of that 1 vent? I find it hard to believe 1 vent heats the whole house????



If you look closely at the front of the stove the convection outlet is only partially blocked so heat still comes out that area. The rest goes up the ducting to upstairs area.

Seeing the stove was designed to have 2 ducts and the open grille area. I personally would have used the second duct outlet. You could either finish it to the upstairs or add a grill so the heat stays downstairs. Or carefully open the restriction provided for the grille(basically make the opening larger-roughly the same amount or area as the blocked duct).

IMHO the more air you let the stove pass thru it, The quicker you turn the air over inside the home. The faster you heat it.


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## DV (Sep 5, 2013)

hyfire said:


> What is your overall opinion of the stove, anything that new owners should be concerned  about?  How much air comes out of that 1 vent? I find it hard to believe 1 vent heats the whole house????


My house main level and upper level are fairly open. I have an open foyer that allows a lot of the warm air from the stove to travel up. If you find it hard to believe I suppose you will just have to take my word for it. Or swing by one day this winter and have a beer and you can feel the heat. Also keep in mind I am in southern MD. Temps rarely go below 20. I am very happy wiht the stove. Was thinking about what to do with the extra outlet but using just the one and the vent in the basement itself is working great. So I am hesitant to try to fix something that isnt broke.


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## jtakeman (Sep 5, 2013)

DV said:


> Was thinking about what to do with the extra outlet but using just the one and the vent in the basement itself is working great. So I am hesitant to try to fix something that isnt broke.



I don't think its a big enough deal to cause concerns, But you are restricking flow through the stove. I'd only worry if you run it balls out in a colder region. Air flow through the stove is what keeps it cool. If you hit the overtemp high limit switch, I'd be concerned.


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## hyfire (Sep 5, 2013)

DV said:


> My house main level and upper level are fairly open. I have an open foyer that allows a lot of the warm air from the stove to travel up. If you find it hard to believe I suppose you will just have to take my word for it. Or swing by one day this winter and have a beer and you can feel the heat. Also keep in mind I am in southern MD. Temps rarely go below 20. I am very happy wiht the stove. Was thinking about what to do with the extra outlet but using just the one and the vent in the basement itself is working great. So I am hesitant to try to fix something that isnt broke.



Alright I believe you, but I do agree maybe 2 vents would be better to bring more heat upstairs, whats the temp difference between downstairs and upstairs now? Has tthe door gaskets started to sag or leak? Are you cleaning the firebox and baffle weekly? How much heat is being radiated from the sides, just curious, as the spec is 6" from combustibles on the sides?


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## jtakeman (Sep 5, 2013)

hyfire said:


> I find it hard to believe 1 vent heats the whole house????



One thing I will add is the heat being pushed up by the vent aids convection by a lot. I was amazed when I added duct to my stove. Heat goes up and with the convection fan casing negative pressure(Sucks) the cool air back down stairs to the stove. Made a huge difference in how I heat my house with a pellet stove,


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## hyfire (Sep 5, 2013)

Is there any way to filter the air coming out or into the stove like your furnace filter?  I know my furnace filter looks like hell every season, just wonder how clean is the air out  of the stove?


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## FyreBug (Sep 6, 2013)

Can I add you should have both vent connected.. It's a UL safety issue. If one vent was to be blocked by something at least the other would be able to handle it. Redundancy...


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## jtakeman (Sep 6, 2013)

hyfire said:


> Is there any way to filter the air coming out or into the stove like your furnace filter?  I know my furnace filter looks like hell every season, just wonder how clean is the air out  of the stove?



The true pellet furnaces should have an inlet filter. Or you can add on to the return air duct just like a forced air furnace. The eco 65 is really just a large pellet stove you can add duct too. The Harman PF100,  St Croix Revolution, SCF-050 and the Fahrenheit Endurance all have filters.


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## DexterDay (Sep 6, 2013)

Fahrenheit pellet furnace has a Filter (as do many others as Jay mentioned) the Drolet is a fine unit.  The bottom feed system is Top Notch. I have an Enerzone that is also built by SBI (Drolet, Enerzone, Osburn) and it does work flawlessly. 

The ducting of the Eco 65 is nice (Enerzone Euromax) and is a feature found on only a couple freestanding units.


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## jtakeman (Sep 7, 2013)

FyreBug said:


> .........





DexterDay said:


> Fahrenheit pellet furnace has a Filter (as do many others as Jay mentioned) the Drolet is a fine unit.  The bottom feed system is Top Notch. I have an Enerzone that is also built by SBI (Drolet, Enerzone, Osburn) and it does work flawlessly.
> 
> The ducting of the Eco 65 is nice (Enerzone Euromax) and is a feature found on only a couple freestanding units.


Maybe FyreBug can investigate an optional add on filter. Doesn't have to be included, I think a few would spend the extra for one.


I know I'd love to have one on mine. And this would tilt the scale toward the eco 65.


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## hyfire (Sep 7, 2013)

I think a filter on the outlet might be a bad a idea, too much heat, it would have to be on the inlet.  The blower is located in the center and near the bottom, and you would have to run piping to the inlets then out to the back to an external box of some sort?


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## jtakeman (Sep 7, 2013)

hyfire said:


> I think a filter on the outlet might be a bad a idea, too much heat, it would have to be on the inlet.  The blower is located in the center and near the bottom, and you would have to run piping to the inlets then out to the back to an external box of some sort?



Yes, Putting a filter on the outlet creates concerns(to much heat for the element and restricting air flow). The filter should be on the inlet where temps are lower. The filter also has to be large enough to allow full air flow as filters do restrict flow. 

I'd be sketchy on adding one myself. I would let the pro's size the filter and do the proper testing. Anything we add to these beast after the fact may void the UL listing. If you are going to try it yourself, Look at one of the 3 units I posted and see which has the closest fan CFM. That unit would probably have the filter size you need.


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## FyreBug (Sep 7, 2013)

When we started building pellet stoves a few years ago we were putting filters on fans. The problem was many users were not cleaning them up or replacing them. We were getting tons of calls for air flow and overheating problems. This proved to be a particularly big problem for those who had pets or in a dusty environment. So like most MFG we decided to do without on 'pellet stoves'. 

However on our PSG Alterna pellet furnace it comes with standard cold aire return and filter box.


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## hyfire (Sep 7, 2013)

That is a nice furnace, but its not nice and cute like a eco-65, maybe you could offer an add on kit to the pellet stoves, for those who actually will do maintenance......  How about something like this? It says you could use as a stand alone, you would need to feed a duct into the stove somehow?

http://www.thecanadiangroup.com/advancedair/pdf/HEPA.pdf


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## DV (Sep 8, 2013)

I have no need for a filter. as stated this is a pellet stove not a furnace. The air


FyreBug said:


> Can I add you should have both vent connected.. It's a UL safety issue. If one vent was to be blocked by something at least the other would be able to handle it. Redundancy...


Yes. Good point and thank you. Do not need a fire outside of the pellet stove.


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## hyfire (Sep 8, 2013)

However if you using this with a duct it really should have some kind of filter, since your trying to use it as a furnace almost.  There must be a "safe" way to do this?  I been looking at it , and the only way would be to remove the blower and make a duct into the unit and house the blower and filter on the back, ti would be quite a project.


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## Love the Heat (Sep 9, 2013)

Here's mine when doing the installation.  I have one duct going upstair and the other one outside the furnace room.


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## FyreBug (Sep 9, 2013)

hyfire said:


> That is a nice furnace, but its not nice and cute like a eco-65, maybe you could offer an add on kit to the pellet stoves, for those who actually will do maintenance......  How about something like this? It says you could use as a stand alone, you would need to feed a duct into the stove somehow?
> 
> http://www.thecanadiangroup.com/advancedair/pdf/HEPA.pdf


I'll pass the idea on. however the device you suggest is likely expensive and difficult to instal for this application. But the concept is good and i'll pass it on.


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## hyfire (Sep 9, 2013)

Almost need a connection port like the intake air, with a adjustable damper so that the user could just plug in a duct on the back of the furnace and install your hepa filter  unit separately, or close it and use the internal air for the blower source.  It might have to be a 6" duct or bigger to get the volume of air, maybe a air pressure switch that would  put the auger feed rate to low and display a warning message "clean air filter" Thanks for showing interest in the filtering feature, might help sales.


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## hyfire (Sep 10, 2013)

Moving on to another topic, I heard rumors that the gaskets need to replaced quite frequently on the firebox as they tear easy.. Should we be stocking up on gaskets?


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## jtakeman (Sep 11, 2013)

hyfire said:


> Moving on to another topic, I heard rumors that the gaskets need to replaced quite frequently on the firebox as they tear easy.. Should we be stocking up on gaskets?


 This issues is IMHO going to be found in every stove that has litherm gaskets. You only get about 1 shot with them. I keep spares on hand for my blower motor JIC.


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## Joey Cote (Oct 10, 2013)

jtakeman said:


> This issues is IMHO going to be found in every stove that has litherm gaskets. You only get about 1 shot with them. I keep spares on hand for my blower motor JIC.





hyfire said:


> Moving on to another topic, I heard rumors that the gaskets need to replaced quite frequently on the firebox as they tear easy.. Should we be stocking up on gaskets?



The first time I did maintenance on my ECO 65 I used a blade to scratch off the original paper-type gaskets and I used the high temperature silicone (-85F to 650F) to seal it off. It will cost you 20$ for a tube, but it will be a pain to remove when you do your maintenance again. I had to pry the covers off the stove when I did maintenance for the upcoming winter season. The downside to using silicone gaskets is that it might smell a little bit for the first few weeks when the temperature in the stove goes higher.


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## DV (Oct 11, 2013)

Joey Cote said:


> The first time I did maintenance on my ECO 65 I used a blade to scratch off the original paper-type gaskets and I used the high temperature silicone (-85F to 650F) to seal it off. It will cost you 20$ for a tube, but it will be a pain to remove when you do your maintenance again. I had to pry the covers off the stove when I did maintenance for the upcoming winter season. The downside to using silicone gaskets is that it might smell a little bit for the first few weeks when the temperature in the stove goes higher.


 Much cheaper than buying new gaskets. Did you only do 1 side? And do you have a tight seal? No leaks?


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## Joey Cote (Oct 11, 2013)

DV said:


> Much cheaper than buying new gaskets. Did you only do 1 side? And do you have a tight seal? No leaks?



I did both sides. I cleaned and sealed with high temperature silicone the three clean out traps on one side, and one on the other side (control panel side of the ECO 65). The silicone did a lip all around the traps when I drilled the screws back in, so I'm thinking it's a tight seal - I made sure I tight the screws again manually with a screwdriver... I have not experienced any leaks so far.


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## Scott Pond (Nov 30, 2013)

Hey, great thread.  I just ordered my eco-65, and looking forward to it.  Lots of great ideas.
I am ordering the plenum kit, as I need to move air around upstairs into two other rooms.I`ll post back when I get it all going.
Thanks folks.


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## Love the Heat (Nov 30, 2013)

Scott Pond said:


> Hey, great thread.  I just ordered my eco-65, and looking forward to it.  Lots of great ideas.
> I am ordering the plenum kit, as I need to move air around upstairs into two other rooms.I`ll post back when I get it all going.
> Thanks folks.



In the same area than you.....May I ask where you bought it????   Thx


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## Scott Pond (Nov 30, 2013)

TSC Stores had a great sale.. $1999..
Also home hardware in Barrys bay has one they will do a fair price.. about $2450
Performance Wood Burning in Pembroke.. a little more and it is the enerzone max unit


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## Joey Cote (Nov 30, 2013)

Scott Pond said:


> Hey, great thread.  I just ordered my eco-65, and looking forward to it.  Lots of great ideas.
> I am ordering the plenum kit, as I need to move air around upstairs into two other rooms.I`ll post back when I get it all going.
> Thanks folks.


Hello Scott,

I have the ECO-65 installed with the Plenum Kit... Please note that the "plenum kit" does not include the plenum itself... haha. I was not a happy camper when I received the package by mail. Anyhow, I found this retired sheet metal guy that custom made it for me - the minimum requirements are 15" high if I remember well from the vendor's documentation - I got mine made 24" high. Let me know if you would like help on the installation or pictures of how I installed mine. You must follow the vendor's requirements if you wish to have it WETT approved. If you do not follow them, you will not pass inspection and your home insurance will not cover for your pellet stove.

Joey


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## Love the Heat (Nov 30, 2013)

Joey Cote said:


> Hello Scott,
> 
> I have the ECO-65 installed with the Plenum Kit... Please note that the "plenum kit" does not include the plenum itself... haha. I was not a happy camper when I received the package by mail. Anyhow, I found this retired sheet metal guy that custom made it for me - the minimum requirements are 15" high if I remember well from the vendor's documentation - I got mine made 24" high. Let me know if you would like help on the installation or pictures of how I installed mine. You must follow the vendor's requirements if you wish to have it WETT approved. If you do not follow them, you will not pass inspection and your home insurance will not cover for your pellet stove.
> 
> Joey



Thx Joey....   always nice to see picture.
I've went exactly as did for installation...


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## hyfire (Mar 29, 2014)

Love the heat, how is the eco-65 holding up for you?????????


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## Love the Heat (Mar 30, 2014)

hyfire said:


> Love the heat, how is the eco-65 holding up for you?????????


Doing good,  the eco is on a marginal break right now.  I had done the pot gate as we talked
earlier and decided to remove it as no benefit. The baffle is still in.

My main system is a Heat pump/Oil and I'm in the middle of replacing the oil by a Propane furnace.
So right now I'm burning all that saved oil before shutting it down.

Cheers


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