# How to loosen stuck screws



## suprz (Oct 29, 2012)

Well, now that my stove is out of the basement and i can get to all of it, i would like to replace the gaskets, and especially the gasket on the glass.  However there are two screws 1 on each side that hold brackets that hold the glass in place, and they are stuck. Plus it would look as if someone tried once before because the screws look a bit "worn" .   should i soak them with PB Blaster or something else to see if they free up?  What do you guys do to get these out (without drilling and tapping)


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## semipro (Oct 29, 2012)

Penetrating oil such as PB Blaster or liquid wrench and one of these impact drivers:


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## charly (Oct 29, 2012)

Heat the screws with a hair dryer, then spray them with Seafoam. Let them sit over night. You want to give the Seafoam time to wick into the threads.  Stuff that wouldn't budge, I would spray again and try 30 minutes later ,,, it loosened things right up.


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## charly (Oct 29, 2012)

suprz said:


> Well, now that my stove is out of the basement and i can get to all of it, i would like to replace the gaskets, and especially the gasket on the glass. However there are two screws 1 on each side that hold brackets that hold the glass in place, and they are stuck. Plus it would look as if someone tried once before because the screws look a bit "worn" . should i soak them with PB Blaster or something else to see if they free up? What do you guys do to get these out (without drilling and tapping)


Worse case senario, have someone tig weld a nut to the screws.


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## EatenByLimestone (Oct 29, 2012)

I usually use PB blaster as a first resort for loosening.  Kroil is my go to after PB doesn't work.  Between that and heat I've been able to get most things.  The manual impact wrench is a great idea.  

Matt


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## charly (Oct 31, 2012)

semipro said:


> Penetrating oil such as PB Blaster or liquid wrench and one of these impact drivers:


Using a hammer on the impact, I'd be leery of the door glass cracking from the shock.


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## begreen (Oct 31, 2012)

Glass gaskets usually last a long time, they are not a wearing part. But if one must replace them, after soaking in kroil or other penetrating solvent oil, see if you can get a solid bite on the screwhead with a small pair of vice grips. Or just drill the sucker out and re-tap.


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## BrowningBAR (Oct 31, 2012)

Lots of good info is being suggested. I would like to add that I have had a lot of luck cursing at stuck screws before, during, and after the process of of loosening screws. My success rate with the cursing method is surprisingly high.


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## semipro (Oct 31, 2012)

charly said:


> Using a hammer on the impact, I'd be leery of the door glass cracking from the shock.


 
Agreed.  Though 'd also worry about applying heat locally to cast iron (if the stove is cast iron).  Unequal heating of cast iron can create cracks. 

This reminds me though, I always apply anti-seize compound to fastener threads on things likely to seize up.


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## charly (Oct 31, 2012)

semipro said:


> Agreed. Though 'd also worry about applying heat locally to cast iron (if the stove is cast iron). Unequal heating of cast iron can create cracks.
> 
> This reminds me though, I always apply anti-seize compound to fastener threads on things likely to seize up.


Good point, I use the copper stuff myself. Of course those wind up being the screws you never have to touch again


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## tlc1976 (Oct 31, 2012)

One thing I didn't see mentioned is to clean around the screw as good as you can with a sharp screwdriver or chisel, so the penetrant has a fighting chance of getting in there.


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## Sprinter (Oct 31, 2012)

begreen said:


> Glass gaskets usually last a long time, they are not a wearing part. But if one must replace them, after soaking in kroil or other penetrating solvent oil, see if you can get a solid bite on the screwhead with a small pair of vice grips. Or just drill the sucker out and re-tap.


If you have to drill into the screw because the head is stripped, try an "EZout" http://www.brokentap.com/easy-outs.html. You may not have to drill it out and tap for a larger screw. Pretty handy to have a set around anyway.


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## charly (Oct 31, 2012)

I had an old timer tell me that they use to get frozen exhaust manifold studs out by heating the stud and touching or melting a candle into the threads. Was it an old beeswax candle,,, I have no idea?

*How to Remove a Rusty Bolt: Get a Frozen or Rusted Bolt Out ...*
How to Remove a Rusty *Bolt* Get a *Frozen* or Rusted *Bolt* ... Melted *Candle* Wax on a Hot *Bolt*. ... The goal is to keep from chewing *up* or round off the head of the *bolt*.
*suite101.com*/article/how-to-remove-a-rusty-bolt-a95912 - Cached


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## peakbagger (Oct 31, 2012)

Cobalt left handed drill bits do wonders. While drilling counterclockwise the bit vibrate the screw and it usually loosens up.


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## semipro (Oct 31, 2012)

If you end up having to drill it out I'd recommend you use a left-handed drill bit. In many cases the use of the left handed bit alone is enough to remove the screw.

Edit: peakbagger beat me to this by about 30 secs.  I didn't see his post before posting mine.


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