# Riding Mower (Kolher engine) problem  UPDATED - Changed out Ignition Coil and success!



## stejus

I'll keep it short and maybe someone can give me some ideas where to look next.

Was running fine and then it started to periodically sputter.
Shut it off, started it and did this serveral times throughout the day successufully.
Tried to start it and it wouldn't catch.   
Cleaned air filter and added some starter fluid and it started
Shut it down, and then tried to start and it wouldn't start.
Changed plug with a new plug (not the right plug) but it started.
Shut it down, and tried to start and it tries to start, but it will not turn over.  
Sprayed starter fluid and that didn't work either.

Does this sound like a fuel delivery problem?  I checked the fuel line and filter, there's fuel in the line.


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## gzecc

Make and model and how old?


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## MasterMech

Since you got a no start with the starting fluid, it's ignition.  The symptoms you describe are classic "dying coil" symptoms.  You can disconnect the kill wire from the ignition coil and check for spark to be sure.  If you get spark then you have a wiring issue or one of the safety/ignition switches is at fault.


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## bluedogz

My Deere (Kawasaki V2) did exactly the same thing- replaced plug with correct one and added red Sta-bil to the ethanol-treated gasoline.  My auto parts guy said this is common with small engines running ethanol-treated gas.


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## Brewer

What is the condition of the battery?.......sounds weak.


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## stejus

Spec's and answers to above

Kohler 14 hp Veritcal Crank (Age - 12 years homeowner use)

Battery is new (one month usage, and it cranks strong) 

This gas is fresh but I added stabil to it because I thought I was done for the season a month ago.  I've been running the engine with 87 octane with stabil for about a month.

The plug is not the right plug (not gapped right either) it's just a new plug I had on my bench.  It did start once with this plug.


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## triptester

Had a similar problem with my lawn tractor. It would start and run fine for a little while then die and would not restart. After sitting for 20 minutes it would start run for wawhile then quite. Found that the tiny vent on the gas cap was clogged causing a vacuum in the tank.


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## fsr4538

I just fixed this very problem in the same engine for a friend. Mastermech is right.  The coil is most likely the issue.  As he said, remove the kill wire and check for spark.  New coil runs about 45.00 from amazon/Mowtown.com.


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## LLigetfa

stejus said:
			
		

> Shut it down, and tried to start and it tries to start, but it will not turn over.


Explain the "will not turn over" part.  If it isn't an electrical issue, the cylinder could be hydro-locked.  Pull the plug and dry out the cylinder.

If the engine uses auto-decompression, it could be a valve lash adjustment.


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## stejus

LLigetfa said:
			
		

> stejus said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shut it down, and tried to start and it tries to start, but it will not turn over.
> 
> 
> 
> Explain the "will not turn over" part.  If it isn't an electrical issue, the cylinder could be hydro-locked.  Pull the plug and dry out the cylinder.
> 
> If the engine uses auto-decompression, it could be a valve lash adjustment.
Click to expand...


I might have used the wrong words. It cranks, meaning I can hear the piston moving up and down like it would normally do when starting, it's just not starting.  I am going to get a new plug and start from there.  I'm hoping its the plug because the one in there is not the right plug for the application,


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## golfandwoodnut

I had the same problem with a Kohler engine and I removed the fuel line from the filter and squirted gas in the line from a bottle.  It fired right up until the line was empty.  This told me it was a fuel issue.  I blew out the filter and put seafoam in the tank.  Took a couple of tries and now it is running like a champ.  Seafoam has saved my butt more than once.  Used it in my Quad and Chainsaw too, that ethanol is a real problem.


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## Excavator

It could be low oil switch if you have one.
As said, if no start on either then it is not getting spark for one reason or another. Coil or low oil switch


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## stejus

Problem solved... Thanks for all the responses... I purchased a new proper plug and gapped it.  Installed and it fired up right away!  I was also lucky enough to find the service manual for this engine so Iâ€™ll have that going for me in the future!   

Hope you all had a great Christmas and let's look forward to a Happy "Warm" New Year!


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## stejus

I thought I had solved the problem but obviously not.  This has happened three times in a row now.  I put in a fresh plug and gas and this has happened three times now. 

Start engine and it runs for about 20 minutes and then I hear a short misfire but it continues to run.    Two minutes later, it shuts down.  I try to start it and it will not start.  I wait a few days or weeks and the same thing.  It starts but shuts down about 20 minutes into the run.  Is something shorting out here?  I don't think its a fuel delivery or carb issue as it runs fine when its running.  Any ideas at this point?


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## basod

Sounds like a coil issue.
As it heats up the insulation resitance breaks down and shorts out.  Sometimes the right amount of humidty in the air can cause the symptom before starting.
I've also seen corrosion build on the flywheel which will cause poor coil charging.
When it starts to act up when hot, pull the sp boot and install your other plug/grounded and see if sparks(this will save you from pulling a hot plug)


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## stejus

BASOD said:
			
		

> Sounds like a coil issue.
> As it heats up the insulation resitance breaks down and shorts out.  Sometimes the right amount of humidty in the air can cause the symptom before starting.
> I've also seen corrosion build on the flywheel which will cause poor coil charging.
> When it starts to act up when hot, pull the sp boot and install your other plug/grounded and see if sparks(this will save you from pulling a hot plug)



And that's why I love this forum.  I would never have thought to do this step.  I did pull the plug to see if it was burnt or fouled but didn't think to see if I was still getting a spark.   I'll do this next time for sure.   

BTW, how difficult is it to swap out an Ignition Module that sits right near the flywheel?  Anyone ever do this on a Kokler Command 14HP Vertical Crankshaft?


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## Jags

When it shuts down, immediately pull the spark plug and ground it out on the engine.  Turn the engine over and see if you have spark or not.  If not - your probably looking at coil as said above.  If you DO have spark, we have more work to do.


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## stejus

Jags said:
			
		

> When it shuts down, immediately pull the spark plug and ground it out on the engine.  Turn the engine over and see if you have spark or not.  If not - your probably looking at coil as said above.  If you DO have spark, we have more work to do.



Planning on do this on Friday afternoon after the rain ends.  I'm hoping it's the coil as the fuel system seems fine as of know.


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## lukem

Jags said:
			
		

> When it shuts down, immediately pull the spark plug and ground it out on the engine.  Turn the engine over and see if you have spark or not.  If not - your probably looking at coil as said above.  If you DO have spark, we have more work to do.



Agreed, electrical sounds like the culprit.  Fuel system issue that manifests itself after 20 minutes is pretty unlikely, but not impossible.


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## Mark_ms

I know you said you checked fuel lines and had fuel, but check fuel lines again as you may have small cracks at fuel tank connection and again at the carb. 
I had similar problem with my Kohler same symtpoms as yours, if they are old you may need to replace them anyway..it wouldn't hurt....
just my .02
mark_ms


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## fsr4538

stejus said:
			
		

> BASOD said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like a coil issue.
> As it heats up the insulation resitance breaks down and shorts out.  Sometimes the right amount of humidty in the air can cause the symptom before starting.
> I've also seen corrosion build on the flywheel which will cause poor coil charging.
> When it starts to act up when hot, pull the sp boot and install your other plug/grounded and see if sparks(this will save you from pulling a hot plug)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's why I love this forum.  I would never have thought to do this step.  I did pull the plug to see if it was burnt or fouled but didn't think to see if I was still getting a spark.   I'll do this next time for sure.
> 
> BTW, how difficult is it to swap out an Ignition Module that sits right near the flywheel?  Anyone ever do this on a Kokler Command 14HP Vertical Crankshaft?
Click to expand...


It is very easy.  Simply take the cover off the engine and you will see the coil attached with two screws.  Remove them, remove and replace the coil.  Make sure the arrow is going the same way as the flywheel turns.


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## PapaDave

This may not apply, but I had a similar issue last year. Crank, but no start. Fuel, not a problem, but no spark. 
Checked the plug and it was wet. Hmmm.
Pulled the motor housing to find a couple dead mice in a nest in a recess on the engine. The problem turned out to be that they had chewed the coil wires, and it would start with difficulty, run a bit, then not start. Must have been shorting.
Fixed it, and it runs like a champ now, although I had another mice issue and found 2 more that got caught in the flywheel a bit. Not a happy ending for the mice. Slightly crispy too, which is why I kept smelling mice burgers.


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## wkpoor

Before you go spending money on modules Kohlers are famous for gummed valve guides that can exhibit your exact symptom's. After the engine gets hot the valves will start sticking and of course the engine will run rough, maybe shutdown. Later when it cools it may fire right up like nothing happened or maybe not. Do a health check on the motor my pulling the plug, put air pressure on the cylinder with it on TDC and see when the leaks are going. A sticking most like exhaust valve will blow air out the muffler.


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## MasterMech

Stejus,

Have you checked out the ignition system?  It's relatively easy to do especially if you have a neon inline spark tester like this one.



And they're cheap too.

http://compare.ebay.com/like/230672359854?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

Like Jags mentioned, gotta know what's going on with the ignition system before we go any further.

With one of these testers you just plug it in, run it till the engine starts to act up and then you can see instantly whether or not the spark pattern has changed.


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## ironpony

There should also be a capacitor which is meant to absorb the extra voltage from the coil firiing
they absorb moisture also and fail
would be cheaper than the coil and if it doesnt fix it
you should replace it with the coil anyway


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## wkpoor

Don't know if the OP said what kind of ignition system it has but unless its a fairly old one it will have a module and no points. 
If it has points the condenser is there to stop the flow of current in the primary coil windings cleanly thus resulting in current flow in the secondary windings and a spark across the plug gap. When the points open the condenser begins to charge and when its fully charged current flow is stopped. That happens in a millisecond and is called the capacitance time constant. Hope that explains basic ign better than the condenser soaks up voltage.
Checking for spark in free air should be done with an increased gap to simulate compression. This is easily done with 2 points set 3/8-1/2 inch apart in a phenolic block. And as Jags said do as soon as the engine quits to see if it stopped do to loss of ign.


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## Jags

For the record the motor was said to be 12 yrs old.  I am not sure when the cutoff from points to electronic occurs in the Briggs.


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## ironpony

o.k. lets really simplify this


Most four-stroke engines have used a mechanically timed electrical ignition system. The heart of the system is the distributor. The distributor contains a rotating cam driven by the engine's drive, a set of breaker points, a condenser, a rotor and a distributor cap. External to the distributor is the ignition coil, the spark plugs and wires linking the distributor to the spark plugs and ignition coil. (see diagram Below)

The system is powered by a lead-acid battery, which is charged by the car's electrical system using a dynamo or alternator. The engine operates contact breaker points, which interrupt the current to an induction coil (known as the ignition coil).

The ignition coil consists of two transformer windings sharing a common magnetic coreâ€”the primary and secondary windings. An alternating current in the primary induces alternating magnetic field in the coil's core. Because the ignition coil's secondary has far more windings than the primary, the coil is a step-up transformer which induces a much higher voltage across the secondary windings. For an ignition coil, one end of windings of both the primary and secondary are connected together. This common point is connected to the battery (usually through a current-limiting ballast resistor). The other end of the primary is connected to the points within the distributor. The other end of the secondary is connected, via the distributor cap and rotor, to the spark plugs.



Ignition Circuit Diagram - Mechanically Timed Ignition

The ignition firing sequence begins with the points (or contact breaker) closed. A steady charge flows from the battery, through the current-limiting resistor, through the coil primary, across the closed breaker points and finally back to the battery. This steady current produces a magnetic field within the coil's core. This magnetic field forms the energy reservoir that will be used to drive the ignition spark.

As the engine turns, so does the cam inside the distributor. The points ride on the cam so that as the engine turns and reaches the top of the engine's compression cycle, a high point in the cam causes the breaker points to open. This breaks the primary winding's circuit and abruptly stops the current through the breaker points. Without the steady current through the points, the magnetic field generated in the coil immediately and rapidly collapses. This change in the magnetic field induces a high voltage in the coil's secondary windings.

At the same time, current exits the coil's primary winding and begins to charge up the capacitor ("condenser") that lies across the now-open breaker points. This capacitor and the coilâ€™s primary windings form an oscillating LC circuit. This LC circuit produces a damped, oscillating current which bounces energy between the capacitorâ€™s electric field and the ignition coilâ€™s magnetic field. The oscillating current in the coilâ€™s primary, which produces an oscillating magnetic field in the coil, extends the high voltage pulse at the output of the secondary windings. This high voltage thus continues beyond the time of the initial field collapse pulse. The oscillation continues until the circuitâ€™s energy is consumed.

The ignition coil's secondary windings are connected to the distributor cap. A turning rotor, located on top of the breaker cam within the distributor cap, sequentially connects the coil's secondary windings to one of the several wires leading to each cylinder's spark plug. The extremely high voltage from the coil's secondary -â€“ often higher than 1000 voltsâ€”causes a spark to form across the gap of the spark plug. This, in turn, ignites the compressed air-fuel mixture within the engine. It is the creation of this spark which consumes the energy that was stored in the ignition coilâ€™s magnetic field.


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## stejus

This should clear up the electrical comments out here.  I have the service manual and pulled this for my CV14 Engine.

CV11-15, CV460-465, CV490-495 engines are
equipped with a dependable electronic magneto
ignition system. The system consists of the following
components:
â€¢ A magnet assembly which is permanently affixed
to the flywheel.
â€¢ An electronic magneto ignition module which
mounts on the engine crankcase.
â€¢ A kill switch (or key switch) which grounds the
module to stop the engine.
â€¢ A spark plug.


As the flywheel rotates and the magnet assembly
moves past the ignition module, a low voltage is
induced in the primary windings of the module. When
the primary voltage is precisely at its peak, the primary
circuit is interrupted, inducing a high voltage in the
secondary windings. This high voltage creates a spark
at the tip of the spark plug, which ignites the fuel-air
mixture in the combustion chamber.
The timing of the spark is automatically controlled by
the module. Therefore, other than periodically
checking/replacing the spark plug, no maintenance,
timing, or adjustments are necessary or possible with
this system.


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## ironpony

or magneto system for you aircraft guys

The simplest form of spark ignition is that using a magnet. The engine spins a magnet inside a coil, or, in the earlier designs, a coil inside a fixed magnet, and also operates a contact breaker, interrupting the current and causing the voltage to be increased sufficiently to jump a small gap. The spark plugs are connected directly from the magneto output. Early magnetos had one coil, with the contact breaker (sparking plug) inside the combustion chamber. In about 1902, Bosch introduced a double-coil magneto, with a fixed sparking plug, and the contact breaker outside the cylinder. Magnetos are not used in modern cars, but because they generate their own electricity they are often found on piston-engined aircraft engines and small engines such as those found in mopeds, lawnmowers, snowblowers, chainsaws, etc. where a battery-based electrical system is not present for any combination of necessity, weight, cost, and reliability reasons.

Magnetos were used on the small engine's ancestor, the stationary "hit or miss" engine which was used in the early twentieth century, on older gasoline or distillate farm tractors before battery starting and lighting became common, and on aircraft piston engines. Magnetos were used in these engines because their simplicity and self-contained operation was more reliable, and because magnetos weighed less than having a battery and dynamo or alternator.

Aircraft engines usually have multiple magnetos to provide redundancy in the event of a failure. Some older automobiles had both a magneto system and a battery actuated system (see below) running simultaneously to ensure proper ignition under all conditions with the limited performance each system provided at the time.This gave the benefits of easy starting (from the battery system) with reliable sparking at speed (from the magneto).


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## Jags

Primary and secondary windings speak of "coil".  Please see my prior post.

You can chase this thing from a hundred directions till the cows come home.  My simple spark test will eliminate at least 50% of possible problems (and cost you nothing but a few moments of time).


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## ironpony

Jags said:
			
		

> Primary and secondary windings speak of "coil".  Please see my prior post.
> 
> You can chase this thing from a hundred directions till the cows come home.  My simple spark test will eliminate at least 50% of possible problems (and cost you nothing but a few moments of time).







agreed
spark and fuel = runs
one is missing


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## stejus

OK all here's the lastest after 24 hours since it last died...

Started engine on first turn and it ran for about 20 minutes. 
I immediately tried to start and starter was turning the flywheel but it would not fire. 
I pulled the sparkplug boot and put a plug in and grounded it to the block.  
I tried to start it and there was no spark.

I am waiting for a while for the engine to cool and then try to get spark on the grounded plug.


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## Jags

stejus said:
			
		

> I tried to start it and there was no spark.



For clarification - are you saying that when the spark plug was grounded and the motor turning over, there was no spark at the spark plug?


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## basod

COIL COIL COIL


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## Jags

BASOD said:
			
		

> COIL COIL COIL



Yep, yep, yep.


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## basod

sorry after reading through the finer points (no pun intended )of the whole magneto/coil(s) discussion above I was staring to wonder if Stejus was trying to troubleshoot his Kohler or understand how it worked.


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## stejus

Jags said:
			
		

> stejus said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to start it and there was no spark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clarification - are you saying that when the spark plug was grounded and the motor turning over, there was no spark at the spark plug?
Click to expand...


What I mean is I pullled the boot off the plug that is still screwed into the cylinder head.  I then plugged another plug into the boot that was not installed but rather just resting on the block so it was grounded.  I should see the sparkplug "sparking" but it wasn't.


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## Jags

stejus said:
			
		

> Jags said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stejus said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to start it and there was no spark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For clarification - are you saying that when the spark plug was grounded and the motor turning over, there was no spark at the spark plug?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> What I mean is I pullled the boot off the plug that is still screwed into the cylinder head.  I then plugged another plug into the boot that was not installed but rather just resting on the block so it was grounded.  I should see the sparkplug "sparking" but it wasn't.
Click to expand...


Perfect.

Coil.


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## stejus

stejus said:
			
		

> OK all here's the lastest after 24 hours since it last died...
> 
> Started engine on first turn and it ran for about 20 minutes.
> I immediately tried to start and starter was turning the flywheel but it would not fire.
> I pulled the sparkplug boot and put a plug in and grounded it to the block.
> I tried to start it and there was no spark.
> 
> I am waiting for a while for the engine to cool and then try to get spark on the grounded plug.



Ok, just to add more testing I let the engine cool and then I tried to start it with the plug resting on the block so I could see spark.  I saw spark so then I plugged the boot into the sparkplug installed on the cylinder head.  I tried to start it and it turned over and fired up the engine.   

So, everyone is thinking coil.  I assume you are talking about the electronic magneto ignition module, right?   I'll confirm I don't have any frayed wires that are shorting out the module as suggested earlier by taking off the flywheel housing to get to the module.  If I don't see any problems with the wiring, it looks like I need to order the ignition module.


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## Jags

stejus said:
			
		

> I assume you are talking about the electronic magneto ignition module, right?



Yep, dats da dude.


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## wkpoor

I think it is important to note (even though it does appear you headed in the right direction here) that checking spark in free air with a plug that only has maybe a .025" gap is not a valid check. It can lead you down the wrong path. To really know you have adequate spark you need to subject the coil to the same level of stress it sees under compression. I illustrated how to do that in my previous post.


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## wkpoor

> This capacitor and the coilâ€™s primary windings form an oscillating LC circuit. This LC circuit produces a damped, oscillating current which bounces energy between the capacitorâ€™s electric field and the ignition coilâ€™s magnetic field. The oscillating current in the coilâ€™s primary, which produces an oscillating magnetic field in the coil, extends the high voltage pulse at the output of the secondary windings. This high voltage thus continues beyond the time of the initial field collapse pulse. The oscillation continues until the circuitâ€™s energy is consumed.


Dude what planet are you on? It can't be earth. No sense in going any further with this as its not helping the OPs probelm at all.


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## stejus

wkpoor said:
			
		

> I think it is important to note (even though it does appear you headed in the right direction here) that checking spark in free air with a plug that only has maybe a .025" gap is not a valid check. It can lead you down the wrong path. To really know you have adequate spark you need to subject the coil to the same level of stress it sees under compression. I illustrated how to do that in my previous post.



wepoor - I think I confirmed this by plugging the sparkplug boot into the plug that was installed into the cylinder head.  This [lug was the same plug that started the engine, ran for 20 minutes and shut down.  After letting the engine cool, I tested the open air plug for spark and then I plugged the boot into the installed plug and the engine started.  This tells me after the engine has heated up, the coil seems to be failing.  Once the engine cools, the coil is fine again until it heats up.


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## wkpoor

stejus said:
			
		

> wkpoor said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is important to note (even though it does appear you headed in the right direction here) that checking spark in free air with a plug that only has maybe a .025" gap is not a valid check. It can lead you down the wrong path. To really know you have adequate spark you need to subject the coil to the same level of stress it sees under compression. I illustrated how to do that in my previous post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wepoor - I think I confirmed this by plugging the sparkplug boot into the plug that was installed into the cylinder head. This [lug was the same plug that started the engine, ran for 20 minutes and shut down. After letting the engine cool, I tested the open air plug for spark and then I plugged the boot into the installed plug and the engine started. This tells me after the engine has heated up, the coil seems to be failing. Once the engine cools, the coil is fine again until it heats up.
Click to expand...

Actually when it comes to solid state ignition with the coil built in (assuming as such) the failure could be in the transistorised points. Either way its a module replacement. Now for the record I'm not sure you understand any free air ignition check should be done with a much larger gap than what a spark plug has. A 3/8"-1/2" gap will simulate .025" under pressure. People do get away with checking spark by pulling a plug and lying it on the engine for ground alot but its only valid for hard failures.


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## basod

In case your having trouble finding the manual/pn
Found this site a while back to get some parts for a B&S
http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=...eed+1700+RPM/High+Speed+3350&dn=catalogs_1157
Not sure which specific model you have they only display CV12.5 and CH12.5 (you said 12hp)with multiple variations, I'd suspect they all have the same ignition coil/module.
http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=kohler_engines&mh=21


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## MasterMech

stejus said:
			
		

> wkpoor said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it is important to note (even though it does appear you headed in the right direction here) that checking spark in free air with a plug that only has maybe a .025" gap is not a valid check. It can lead you down the wrong path. To really know you have adequate spark you need to subject the coil to the same level of stress it sees under compression. I illustrated how to do that in my previous post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wepoor - I think I confirmed this by plugging the sparkplug boot into the plug that was installed into the cylinder head.  This [lug was the same plug that started the engine, ran for 20 minutes and shut down.  After letting the engine cool, I tested the open air plug for spark and then I plugged the boot into the installed plug and the engine started.  This tells me after the engine has heated up, the coil seems to be failing.  Once the engine cools, the coil is fine again until it heats up.
Click to expand...


Which is the exact pattern of symptoms for coil/module failure.  Get yourself a module and get it running.


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## stejus

BASOD said:
			
		

> In case your having trouble finding the manual/pn
> Found this site a while back to get some parts for a B&S
> http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=...eed+1700+RPM/High+Speed+3350&dn=catalogs_1157
> Not sure which specific model you have they only display CV12.5 and CH12.5 (you said 12hp)with multiple variations, I'd suspect they all have the same ignition coil/module.
> http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=kohler_engines&mh=21



Thanks, I found my model and the the drawings and the part on this link.  It's #18.  I did happen to find the same part for a lower cost  on another site though.

http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=...1750+RPM/High+Speed+3400+RPM&dn=catalogs_1289

I also found a video that walks you through it.  How sweet is this... about a $150 savings rather than bringing it to the small engine shop.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kAVubYlhAwM


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## basod

Glad we could help solve the problem and save some coin


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## stejus

Ok, here's the latest. I was able to get the Ignition coil out.  I had to disconnect this wire that leads back to a connector with other wires.  Look at the wire and notice it has been chewed and the insulation and rubber jacket is missing on some of the wire.    

Could this be the root of the problem seeing the bare wire may be hitting metal and shorting out the ignition?  I want to say no because it seems to happen when the engine heats up.  In any case should I wrap the wire up with electrical tape or get a new wire kit?


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## basod

That's probably your kill switch wire(grounds through ignition switch to stop engine spark).  And yes if its grounding out it will cause it to quit.
Does it look like the tube that it passes into is chewed as well?
If you replace just the small section with a butt splice make sure its away from the heat.
Tie wrap the replaced section away from the engine block.


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## stejus

BASOD said:
			
		

> That's probably your kill switch wire(grounds through ignition switch to stop engine spark).  And yes if its grounding out it will cause it to quit.
> Does it look like the tube that it passes into is chewed as well?
> If you replace just the small section with a butt splice make sure its away from the heat.
> Tie wrap the replaced section away from the engine block.



Thanks BASOD.  The bare wire is only part of the total length of the wire.  The other half of the wire is fine as far as the insulation and rubber jacket.   I think I'll wrap the wire with some electical tape and re-attach the coil and let it run for a while.  This will confirm if it's the wire or the coil.  I'll post the results later.


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## oilstinks

had the same prob on  a two cylinder kawi. Changed the bad coil. No more problems.


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## stejus

It's the Ignition Coil for sure.  

I wrapped the bare wire at first.  Connected the battery and started it.  It ran for a half hour or so and I decided to turn it off.  Then I did a few on/off cycles and it worked.  I was thinking maybe it was the bare wire.   Waited about 10 minutes after the last sucessful start and it would not start. 

I just ordered the part online and it should be here by Friday!


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## Jags

Cool beans.  I love it when a plan comes together.


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## stejus

Jags said:
			
		

> Cool beans.  I love it when a plan comes together.



Sure does... short of having all the proper instruments to test the output of the coil, I guess the manual, long, approach to confirming the problem is the next best thing.


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## Jags

stejus said:
			
		

> Jags said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool beans.  I love it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sure does... short of having all the proper instruments to test the output of the coil, I guess the manual, long, approach to confirming the problem is the next best thing.
Click to expand...


Baaa..it was ONLY a 4 page thread. :lol:


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## basod

Jags said:
			
		

> stejus said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jags said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool beans.  I love it when a plan comes together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sure does... short of having all the proper instruments to test the output of the coil, I guess the manual, long, approach to confirming the problem is the next best thing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Baaa..it was ONLY a 4 page thread. :lol:
Click to expand...


If you were a little closer I'd of brought my megger over and we could have fixed it a few posts ago.


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## stejus

Finally got the part installed and it started successfully, stayed running and no problems!  Thanks all for guiding me to this as this is my first ingnition coil change!  Using the trailer to load the weekly wood rack is a heck of a lot easier and faster than the old standby wheelbarrel!


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