# 372XP or 562XP??



## KenLockett (Mar 28, 2016)

Local dealer having a one day Husqvarna 20% off fleet sale in about a week.  Following prices on just a few of the items:

562XP 20" for $599 ( I presume Auto-tune)
372XP 20" for $703

Gonna be hard for me to pass this up but was hoping for some advice from you guys on making my choice.  My heart had been set for quite some time on the 372XP for a big saw.  Then started looking at the Dolmar 6400 with optimism and heard good things about Husqvarna Auto-Tune and am now torn (really just undecided).  I currently have a Husqvarna 36 for a smaller work and limbing.  Have a Husqvarna 450 that I use for everything else currently.  I have tried a friend's 372XP and know she is a beast but wondering how much difference there is in reality between the 562 and 372.  Also is the auto-tune the way to go at this point.

Any advice and suggestions much appreciated as always.


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## Clyde S. Dale (Mar 29, 2016)

Both saws are Husqvarna's XP line which are professional grade saws and a significant step up from a 36 and 450. Both also have stellar reputations, the 562xp being in the 60cc class and the 372xp is 70cc class. It all comes down to need. The 372XP can run up to a 28" bar with its sweet spot being 20-24" bars. the 562XP is best suited for a 20" bar. What size logs do you typically come upon? Also to your point, the 562XP has Auto Tune which eliminates the need to ever make carb adjustments. Is that important to you?

I agree both prices are good unless the price is power head only so I hope the sale price includes a bar and chain at minimum. If your heart has been set on the 372XP, then maybe you answered your own question and here is your opportunity. Either saw will hold its value if you take good care of it. Down the road if you decide one is too big or too small for your needs, you should have no problem getting a good portion of your initial investment back by selling.  

Personally I've never run a 562XP, but I own 372XP and love it. Whatever you decide let us know and of course we will want pics.

Clyde


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## claydogg84 (Mar 29, 2016)

The 372 pulls a 24" bar perfectly and the 562 pulls a 20" just as well. Which sized bar would your prefer to run? I think that will make your decision for you. My 562 is essentially my limbing saw, but I really enjoy running it. And yes, power wise I can definitely tell the difference between the 2 saws.


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## Mike M. (Mar 29, 2016)

Easy answer - buy them both. Or pick which every model feels better in your hands.


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## KenLockett (Mar 29, 2016)

Clyde S. Dale said:


> Both saws are Husqvarna's XP line which are professional grade saws and a significant step up from a 36 and 450. Both also have stellar reputations, the 562xp being in the 60cc class and the 372xp is 70cc class. It all comes down to need. The 372XP can run up to a 28" bar with its sweet spot being 20-24" bars. the 562XP is best suited for a 20" bar. What size logs do you typically come upon? Also to your point, the 562XP has Auto Tune which eliminates the need to ever make carb adjustments. Is that important to you?
> 
> I agree both prices are good unless the price is power head only so I hope the sale price includes a bar and chain at minimum. If your heart has been set on the 372XP, then maybe you answered your own question and here is your opportunity. Either saw will hold its value if you take good care of it. Down the road if you decide one is too big or too small for your needs, you should have no problem getting a good portion of your initial investment back by selling.
> 
> ...


Is the Auto-tune system proven in your opinion?  What are the chances I'll even have to make carb adjustments to the 372XP if dealer sets it up properly.  Also special tool needed anyhow if I even chose to do it right?


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## KenLockett (Mar 29, 2016)

Price includes Bar and Chain,  Lowest price I had found the 372XP in the past was $819 so not bad deal at all.  Retail is $879.


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## woodhog73 (Mar 29, 2016)

I've got the Jonsered version of the 372xp identical saw and it's certainly a well built and very strong saw. You won't be disappointed with a 372xp if you actually need a big saw and you don't mind the weight. It gets heavy quick when doing jobs that can be easily done with a smaller saw.

If your even wondering and second guessing if you need a 70cc saw then I would by the 562. It is an amazingly strong saw and a good deal lighter than the 372. It's auto tune and it works. I would never buy a new saw again without it.

With a 20 inch bar the difference between that and the 372 is small ( and the 562 pulls a 24 inch bar just fine for firewood cutting) especially if your just cutting firewood and not in a production environment.

Plus the 562 is cheaper.

Go handle them if you haven't already. The 372 is old fashioned big and heavy compared to a 562 which feels ( and is ) far lighter and easier to work with all day long or all weekend long etc

By the way what's he asking for a 365 ? It's a detuned 372.  Grind the transfer port cover or pay someone $50 to do it and you have a 372. For far less money.

If you can get a 365 for even less than the 562 then it could be the best deal going. Run it as is you might not even want the extra 1/2 hp of the 372. It's still stronger than a 562 I don't care what the hp numbers are it's bigger and has more torque.


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## KenLockett (Mar 29, 2016)

At some point could the 562XP be ported and/or modified in general for more output equivalent to a 71CC (equivalent power of the 372SP)?  Does being Auto-Tune make this prohibitive and/or difficult?  Asking as I've read that the Dolmar 6400 can be ported to create the equivalent of a 70CC saw.


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## woodhog73 (Mar 29, 2016)

KenLockett said:


> At some point could the 562XP be ported and/or modified in general for more output equivalent to a 71CC (equivalent power of the 372SP)?  Does being Auto-Tune make this prohibitive and/or difficult?  Asking as I've read that the Dolmar 6400 can be ported to create the equivalent of a 70CC saw.



Sure it could be made to be higher output. But if your talking porting then get a 555 and not a 562. It's the detuned version. If your porting it anyways I'd save the money and get a 555 and have that one ported.

Honestly unless you need a big 70cc saw I think you will be amazed at the power of a 562.  Id probably get the 562 and call it a day. And if you need a 24 inch bar it runs it fine. In a cutting test against a 372 it's soooo close. If your cutting cookies and timing it sure 372 all the way. In the real world for a firewood cutter it's a very small difference and a non issue for many people.  A properly sharp chain is way more important.


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## KenLockett (Mar 29, 2016)

Woodhog73, I have used the 372XP and my 450 side by side and it is amazing the difference in the saws.  Almost as if the 450 is but a toy.  Do you think I am going to get the same impression and awe running the 562XP and 450 side by side or at least close compared to the 372XP.  You are probably right in that a 562XP would be fine but I used the 372XP on a Huge Large Oak and WHAT a workhorse and SO FAST.  If there were more than $100 difference then I would probably be leaning more toward 372XP.  Also the Auto-Tune worries me with regard to repair beyond warranty period.  Is the mechanism sophisticated?  Is there an embedded controller board that handles this function?  Expensive to repair if needed and would it absolutely need to be done by dealer?  On the flip side, I have heard very positive reviews on here although some old timers say absolutely steer clear of the Auto-Tune.  I even know a fellow who said the dealer told him the same.


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## Mike M. (Mar 29, 2016)

I have a 555 with 20in bar and 372 with 24in. I like the way the 555 starts and the way the 372 cuts and sounds. Both excellent machines but I wanted a 372 in fear they will quit making it.


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## woodhog73 (Mar 29, 2016)

KenLockett said:


> Woodhog73, I have used the 372XP and my 450 side by side and it is amazing the difference in the saws.  Almost as if the 450 is but a toy.  Do you think I am going to get the same impression and awe running the 562XP and 450 side by side or at least close compared to the 372XP.



Yes the 562xp will be huge night and day difference over the 450.

Now the weight of the 372 is such that it may play into your mind when your going back and forth from it and the 450 and magnifying the difference in your mind. 

The 562 is far lighter than the 372. But when cutting big oak it's within a whisper of the 372. Both the 562 and 372 will leave the 450 in the dust when buried deep in hard white oak. It's a fact unless it has a dull chain on it of course.


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## claydogg84 (Mar 29, 2016)

The AutoTune would have to be brought to the dealer if there is an issue. The 562 is still going to be a massive improvement over the 450. I notice the power difference between the 562 and 372 mainly when burying the nose in big Oak. They're both great saws. Like I said earlier, pick a saw based on what size bar you'll be running for the majority of the time.


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## Clyde S. Dale (Mar 29, 2016)

You've mentioned the Dolmar 6400 a few times. It's a strong saw, lots of torque but heavy for its power output. Sure you can have it ported but most people upgrade theirs with a new piston and cylinder to make it 79cc. Give us more details about your cutting habits. I justify keeping a 70cc and 80cc saw around because of the agreement I have with a local tree service. He brings me large diameter logs because he knows I have the tools to process them. He has a long list of people he delivers to but no one wants the big stuff so he brings it to me. Works out great for both of us.


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## woodhog73 (Mar 29, 2016)

Clyde S. Dale said:


> You've mentioned the Dolmar 6400 a few times. It's a strong saw, lots of torque but heavy for its power output.



On paper it is but when cutting it's hard to notice. I've run one several times over the years and it cuts like a 70cc saw should.

I hear ya on the big logs. I've got lots of big wood myself in standing trees and there are times I'm glad I have a 70cc saw. Even a few times I wanted bigger. But that said I still run my 50cc saw probably 90 percent of the time. It just works in most situations.

To the OP I really think you will be amazed at how strong a 562 is. Plus it has auto tune. That's a big bonus. And lastly if your limbing with it especially in thick overgrown woods, big oaks with limbs over your head , etc, the 562 is far better handling as a limbing saw and far easier to live with hour after hour while in the woods. Limb with it and buck your big oaks no problems it won't even break a sweat


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## Mike M. (Mar 29, 2016)

Keep us posted on your choice and how it performs. You can't go wrong with Husqvarna XP equipment. I sold it for over 10 years and since left the business. Miss it every day.


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## woodhog73 (Mar 29, 2016)

Ken in regards to the auto tune and repair like others have said it probably needs to go back to the dealer.

It's a valid concern if the auto tune breaks in 5 years out of warranty what will it cost you ?

Don't know. But it's a  $700 dollar power product I would think at most a new auto tune could be $ 100 to $200 ??? Not sure honestly but the industry is going this way with auto tune being the norm etc


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## KenLockett (Mar 30, 2016)

Thanks guys for the input.  Will probably just see how they both feel in my hands then make a decision.  Claydogg, for the majority of the time I would probably just use the 20" bar for weight purposes.  With that said even if I were to have a need for a 24" bar at times sounds like either saw is capable.


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## Jon1270 (Mar 30, 2016)

I haven't worked on a Husky AT saw yet, but I recently fixed a problem with an M-Tronic Stihl 441.  The Stihl's control system has three major components - a special ignition coil that contains sensors, a "trigger unit" that sits directly on but outside of the carburetor, and a tiny solenoid valve located under the trigger unit, replacing the conventional mixture screws.  The saw I worked on passed basic mechanical checks (compression, pressure and vacuum) and was misbehaving in ways a conventional saw never would, so it was clearly an autotune problem.  None of the AT components are repairable, so it was just a question of which one to replace.  In the case of the saw I was working on, several clues pointed towards a bad solenoid valve.  That's the cheapest of the three components too (about $20) so I bought one, installed it, and it did the trick.  Installing the solenoid required a small Torx security bit, which I already had in my tool box thanks to a sensor replacement I did on my wife's Volkswagen about 8 years ago.

I suspect DIY repair of autotune systems will end up being a lot like DIY sensor-related repairs in modern cars, in that failures of certain components will produce specific symptoms, and once these saws have been around a while there will be plenty of online discussions leading amateur mechanics to the right solutions with a fair degree of reliability.  I'm a fan of being able to actually see the defects I'm trying to correct, which I usually can with conventional saw problems.  This is not like that.  I'm cheap, so it will produce some anxiety for me to feel uncertain about which parts I should buy, but I don't think it's going to be a huge problem over the long term. Aside from the handful of AT components, these saws are basically built like any other.


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## claydogg84 (Mar 30, 2016)

KenLockett said:


> Thanks guys for the input.  Will probably just see how they both feel in my hands then make a decision.  Claydogg, for the majority of the time I would probably just use the 20" bar for weight purposes.  With that said even if I were to have a need for a 24" bar at times sounds like either saw is capable.



The 562 handles the 20" bar perfectly, you'll love it. Not that it's relevant, but the tree crew here at work hates the Stihl saws with their version of AutoTune. I haven't had any issues with my 562, but it probably has under 5 hours on it.


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## bpirger (Mar 30, 2016)

I have all three....350 (similar to 450), 372XP, and 562XP.  I've had the 562XP a year now....I don't think I've started the 372 during that year.  I have 24" bar on 372...18" on 562.  Most of what I cut 18"....and the 562 is amazing.  AMAZING. I am quite certain it has reduced my bucking time by many hours (maybe 30%?) compared to running primarily the 350.  Amazing.  372XP likely would make the same difference in cutting time of course, though, it is MUCH heavier and bigger.  I can run the 562XP all day....the 372XP would get very heavy...and way to much for limbing.  

If you aren't routinely in need of a big bar, and maybe even if you are, I personally strongly recommend the 562XP.  No problems so far with autotune...will be disappointed when I pay the bill if there is.  I got a 5 year warranty from my local shop by buying some husq oil mix.


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## Wildo (Mar 30, 2016)

if you are considering  a dolmar you could  save  another  $55 by getting  this...http://www.chainsawsdirect.com/cutters/dolmar-6100-series-chainsaws.html


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## KenLockett (Mar 31, 2016)

Dolmar has no Auto-Tune and Husky is from local dealer that can support/setup the saw and if I buy two cans of premix ($25) Husky and thus dealer will warranty for four years.  Very difficult to beat the 20% off pricing and the intangibles and warranty period I mention above.


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## Wildo (Mar 31, 2016)

Husky is the way to go then.  I would avoid the auto-tune personally and depending on price get the 365xp as someone else mentioned earlier.  I would immediately void the warranty and turn it into a 372xp.

By the way I had a 562xp and it is a GREAT saw.  I traded it because of the auto-tune and the crooked  front handlebar,  I like control of my hi-speed and straight  handlebars.

The 562xp felt nice and nimble though.

If you buy one you will be happy with it.

*P.S.  The muffler should be immediately opened up and gutted  for maximum smile factor*!


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## woodhog73 (Mar 31, 2016)

Wildo said:


> Husky is the way to go then.  I would avoid the auto-tune personally and depending on price get the 365xp as someone else mentioned earlier.  I would immediately void the warranty and turn it into a 372xp.
> 
> By the way I had a 562xp and it is a GREAT saw.  I traded it because of the auto-tune and the crooked  front handlebar,  I like control of my hi-speed and straight  handlebars.
> 
> ...



Was your 562 an early model ? I have read about problems with the very first auto tune Husky saws. First few production runs had issues. It's been sorted out is what I thought.

I've got a newer Jonsered 2252 ( same as Husky 545 ) and no problems with the auto tune at least not yet. Lots of pre mix run through it and the auto tune still works great.

I agree on getting the 365 and doing the transfer port mod if the price is right.
And if you don't mind voiding your warranty.


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## D8Chumley (Mar 31, 2016)

claydogg84 said:


> The 562 handles the 20" bar perfectly, you'll love it. Not that it's relevant, but the tree crew here at work hates the Stihl saws with their version of AutoTune. I haven't had any issues with my 562, but it probably has under 5 hours on it.


Not to derail, but what is it they don't like? I just bought my first M-tronic saw, MS261 C-M and the few times I've used it I really like it. I don't have any experience with Husky auto-tune however


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## claydogg84 (Mar 31, 2016)

D8Chumley said:


> Not to derail, but what is it they don't like? I just bought my first M-tronic saw, MS261 C-M and the few times I've used it I really like it. I don't have any experience with Husky auto-tune however



All of them have been to the dealer multiple times. They don't like having to send them to be fixed, rather than fixing themselves. It's worth mentioning that all of these guys are Stihl heads, one of them having it tattooed on their arm.


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## D8Chumley (Mar 31, 2016)

Stihl tattoo, that's hard core  Well hopefully I don't have that problem


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## Wildo (Mar 31, 2016)

It was a gen. 1 and I never had any problems with the auto-tune it worked great, it's just not my preferred carb. .  I like  a simple carb. that I can adjust and know it has a slightly rich F:A mixture.

My ps6400 is stronger and can become a 7900 whenever I choose for $200 and 2hr of my labor/love.   So the 562 went now lives 85 ft. away with a happy new owner.  If I didn't  have the dolmar I would have kept it longer.


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## cachunko (Apr 1, 2016)

I've never ran a 372.  I have a 562xp.  I came from a stihl farm boss, like the 450 rancher.  Those two don't even compare.  It would be like comparing a gas powered hydraulic splitter to a bottle jack style   Anyways, I burn about 7 cord of wood a year or so.  I've never desired anything bigger.


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## KenLockett (Apr 4, 2016)

Ok guys, have decided to go with the 562XP and pick it up on Saturday.  Next question, $599 includes 20" bar and  0.58 full chisel chain.  for $10 more dealer will provide 24" bar/chain.  Realistically I probably only need 20" bar/chain but the opportunity to get the 24" bar/chain for only $10 more is very tempting.  If I eventually want a 24" bar/chain I am going to pay a lot more right?  Delta between 20" and 24" combos is substantial.  Any advice please?

Also, 3 cans of premix ($27) to increase warranty from 2 to 4 years is a no brainer right?


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## cachunko (Apr 4, 2016)

I'd for sure increase the warranty.  I did when I bought mine.  That's also a really good price.  I think I paid closer to $650 and that was online a couple years ago.  I have a 20 inch bar and a 28 inch bar.  I've never used the 28inch - I will be this summer.  I don't have much of an idea without pricing it out, but I would suspect that there isn't a huge cost difference between a 24" setup and a 20" setup.  The $10 more probably isn't that good of a deal (but I'm just guessing.)


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## KenLockett (Apr 4, 2016)

On Amazon:

24" Husqvarna bar $73.75  chain $27
20" Husqvarna bar $45.25  chain $24

Therefore delta if you buy separately is about $30 (versus $10 if I upgrade with saw purchase).  Bigger question I suppose is whether I really need 24" bar and my biggest concern is how much extra weight the 24" adds versus 20" and how much of a difference in power running the 24" versus 20"?  My initial decision in going with 562XP versus 372XP was based upon weight and how close they were in power.  Don't want to negate the closer equality in power by going with 24" bar if indeed this is the case.


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## KenLockett (Apr 4, 2016)

cachunko said:


> I'd for sure increase the warranty.  I did when I bought mine.  That's also a really good price.  I think I paid closer to $650 and that was online a couple years ago.  I have a 20 inch bar and a 28 inch bar.  I've never used the 28inch - I will be this summer.  I don't have much of an idea without pricing it out, but I would suspect that there isn't a huge cost difference between a 24" setup and a 20" setup.  The $10 more probably isn't that good of a deal (but I'm just guessing.)


Yeah the one day 20% Husqvarna fleet sale was the decision maker in me pulling the trigger.  Discount only on pro saws.


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## Mike M. (Apr 4, 2016)

Get the 24 and order a spare 20in. This way if you pinch the saw, you have a backup. I always take 2 bars with me on a job. 24 = less bending over.


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## claydogg84 (Apr 4, 2016)

I would buy it with the 20" and get the 24" combo when and if you need it.


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## woodhog73 (Apr 4, 2016)

claydogg84 said:


> I would buy it with the 20" and get the 24" combo when and if you need it.



I agree with this 100 percent.

That saw is better matched with the 20. It pulls a 24 ok for those times you need it but if much of what you cut is small enough to do with the 20 inch bar ( and with experience that is a 35 to 40 inch diameter tree cutting from both sides) , all your doing is using more available power requiring more power to move the slightly heavier chain.  Plus you have a longer bar obviously with the  24 inch bar and unless you need it, can be more cumbersome.  Lastly the 562 is a very well balanced saw and is not that heavy to limb with, and the 24 inch bar is a pain in the rear to use for limbing.

Someone mentioned getting both sizes. That's good too if you need it. But if you don't ever need a 24 inch bar I personally would go the other way and get a 16 inch bar to go with the 20. Or if you need the 24 then consider a 16 or 18 inch bar to go with it instead of a 20. If you cut a lot of smaller stuff and do a lot of limbing in tight working conditions, that saw with a 16 inch bar will be super fast and fun to work with.

As for getting 2 bars incase you pinch a bar that's a good idea normally but the 562 uses an outboard clutch. It's a little harder to get a chain off in a pinched bar situation because it has to fit around the clutch.


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## KenLockett (Apr 4, 2016)

Thanks guys.  Great points.  I am going to stick with the 20" bar/chain combo.


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## Clyde S. Dale (Apr 5, 2016)

KenLockett said:


> Thanks guys.  Great points.  I am going to stick with the 20" bar/chain combo.



Congrats on the saw choice. You will not be disappointed with the 562XP. If you are interested I have a lightly used 24" Husqvarna bar that I am getting ready to sell. You are welcome to have right of first refusal. I also have 2 sharpened Stihl RS chains for it with about 90% life left to with it. PM me if you are interested and I will send you pics and price. Not a problem if you don't want them as a package, glad to sell the items individually. Don't forget pics once you have the saw.

Clyde


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## KenLockett (Apr 5, 2016)

Clyde S. Dale said:


> Congrats on the saw choice. You will not be disappointed with the 562XP. If you are interested I have a lightly used 24" Husqvarna bar that I am getting ready to sell. You are welcome to have right of first refusal. I also have 2 sharpened Stihl RS chains for it with about 90% life left to with it. PM me if you are interested and I will send you pics and price. Not a problem if you don't want them as a package, glad to sell the items individually. Don't forget pics once you have the saw.
> 
> Clyde


Thanks Clyde.  Yeah I'm psyched.  Will definitely post pics.  I will PM regarding bar and chains.


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## cachunko (Apr 5, 2016)

KenLockett said:


> On Amazon:
> 
> 24" Husqvarna bar $73.75  chain $27
> 20" Husqvarna bar $45.25  chain $24
> .



In case it helps sway your decision any, the price difference between a 24 inch bar vs a 20 inch bar on baileys online is only about $2.  Sometimes you have to be careful with amazon pricing on more specialty type stuff.  A 20 inch husky bar is $47 and a 24 inch was around $49.


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## KenLockett (Apr 10, 2016)

Picked up the new saw yesterday although have not had an opportunity to really run it yet. Photos attached. Hey you guys that have bought these from dealers like I did, does the saw come with a bar sheath?  One is identified in the users manual but I didn't even think about asking when I picked it up.


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## Mike M. (Apr 10, 2016)

When I worked at a dealer the saws typically did not come with a bar cover. We sold them for like  $5. I have been using the Husqvarna power box for a while and it includes a 20in bar cover. The case is well worth the cost. 

Sent from my SCH-I545L using Tapatalk


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## claydogg84 (Apr 10, 2016)

New saws typically don't come with the scabbard unless you ask them to throw it in. I had the Husqvarna Powerbox as previously mentioned, and never used it. I prefer just throwing the saw in the back of the truck with whatever tools/oil/fuel I'll need.


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## KenLockett (Apr 11, 2016)

No big deal.  Ordered the scabbard from dealer for $6.95.


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## woodhog73 (Apr 11, 2016)

Regarding the scabbard with Husky / Jonsered they are technically sold as power head only. Dealers price them with bar and chain but that's on their end. They buy them from Husky as power head only I'm fairly sure. They never come with scabbards.

Stihls and Dolmars are sold with bar and chain from the manufacture and come with scabbards to the best of my knowledge. If the dealer chooses not to include it in the sale I'm assuming it's so they can sell it as a extra but it arrives with the saw to the dealer as a package with the bar and chain included.  Perhaps a stihl or Dolmar dealer can chime in and clarify this. In my experience the Stihls I've bought over the years always came with them.

My Jonsereds came with them because I asked for one at time of purchase. Perhaps ask the dealer to throw one in for you. Even if you already ordered one it doesn't hurt to have a spare. Tell the dealer you will tell all your friends how pleased you are with the purchase and customer service and you will get 2 scabbards for free I'd almost bet one of my saws on it 

By the way enjoy the new saw. Huskys 50cc and 60cc pro saw chassis is super nimble and easy handling you will love it. If I could only have only 1 saw for every job task from small to big , to storm clean up to firewood cutting,  to even logging work, without a doubt it would be a 562 / 2260.


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## tymbee (Apr 17, 2016)

woodhog73 said:


> Ken in regards to the auto tune and repair like others have said it probably needs to go back to the dealer.
> 
> It's a valid concern if the auto tune breaks in 5 years out of warranty what will it cost you ?
> 
> Don't know. But it's a  $700 dollar power product I would think at most a new auto tune could be $ 100 to $200 ??? Not sure honestly but the industry is going this way with auto tune being the norm etc



I've got around 5 years on my 576 XP with auto tune with no issues whatsoever. Great investment IMO. Of course check back with me if it ever DOES conk on...


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