# Sooteater



## neumsky (Jul 19, 2013)

Well...we're just about to shoulder season...that means football...chili and FIRES! It's weird being away from this site for a coupala months away from all you pleasant people! Just curious as to how many of y'all have experience with sooteaters and you who have experience with JOTUL'S and sooteaters! The cheapest sweep I could find in this area would charge us 156 US dollars. Why not do it myself for at the most...2 kits at 42 dollars a piece? And never have to get on the roof?  Thanx ahead... Jeff


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## Trilifter7 (Jul 19, 2013)

I have one and it really works! I used it once towards the end of last season. Super easy to use and takes the work out of cleaning the flue. I still get up on the roof and take my cap off to scrape the screen, but that was primarily bc I was burning less than seasoned wood last year and getting excessive creosote build up. I also didn't want to run the sooteater into the screen in the cap, probably wouldn't hurt though.


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## neumsky (Jul 19, 2013)

One of my issues is a 9-12 pitch roof!


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## mepellet (Jul 19, 2013)

I am likely going to purchase one for my wood stove after I finish getting it installed this fall.  I love my Linteater that I use for my pellet stove venting which is an up and out install. 

The one question that I have though is that I am going to have a straight up chimney install (slight offset in the attic) with a telescoping double wall stove pipe section coming off the top of the wood stove.  I would rather not get up on the roof in the winter to clean the chimney so can I disconnect the telescoping stove pipe from the stove and run the sooteater up through the chimney?  Wouldn't this create a huge mess inside?  A shop vac attachment comes with the linteater so that you can run your shop vac while using the linteater.  Does the sooteater come with a similar attachment?


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## Ashful (Jul 19, 2013)

neumsky said:


> One of my issues is a 9-12 pitch roof!


 

9:12, meh... what's the problem? I could sleep on steeper than that.

Here's what I have to deal with: 12:12 pitch, slippery raised seam metal roof, with the peak at 50 feet.






I use the soot-eater mid-season, but like to get some eyes down from the top and inspect the crown once a year.


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## Holzstapel (Jul 19, 2013)

neumsky said:


> One of my issues is a 9-12 pitch roof!


 
16-12 roof here.    I only found out about these sooteaters yesterday.  Will be interesting to read what the members here think of them.


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## Jags (Jul 19, 2013)

I have one and they work.  I have also lent it to a friend who ended up getting his own (although he borrows a couple of rods from my kit ).  I have no affiliation to the company, but will say...they work as advertised.


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## Sprinter (Jul 19, 2013)

If you can negotiate the roof safely, you should be able to use the sooteater fine from the top.  It's not heavy or clumsy.  I don't want to encourage you to climb the roof if you're not comfortable with it, though, and you can use the sooteater from the bottom as well.  It's just more messy that way.


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## Sprinter (Jul 19, 2013)

mepellet said:


> I would rather not get up on the roof in the winter to clean the chimney


If you are burning properly, you shouldn't have to clean mid-season.  If you do, you're doing something wrong.


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## Ashful (Jul 19, 2013)

Sprinter said:


> If you are burning properly, you shouldn't have to clean mid-season. If you do, you're doing something wrong.


 
True, but the likelihood and consequences of doing something wrong are high. Everyone should plan a mid-season cleaning in their first few years, if they're burning 24/7 with a new stove or wood supply. Get a few years in, with regular mid-season cleanings and/or inspections, and then decide if you're able to skip it. Don't skip it up-front because "you shouldn't have to."


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## Sprinter (Jul 19, 2013)

Joful said:


> True, the likelihood and consequences of doing something wrong are high. Everyone should plan a mid-season cleaning in their first few years, if they're burning 24/7 with a new stove or wood supply. Get a few years in, with regular mid-season cleanings and/or inspections, and then decide if you're able to skip it. Don't skip it up-front because "you shouldn't have to."


Okay.  I'll go along with that.  Maybe I was lucky.


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## Sprinter (Jul 19, 2013)

I'm sure it's been said before, but if you have a probe-type flue thermometer, be sure to remove it first  Obvious, maybe, but easy to overlook.


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## neumsky (Jul 19, 2013)

Joful said:


> 9:12, meh... what's the problem? I could sleep on steeper than that.
> 
> Here's what I have to deal with: 12:12 pitch, slippery raised seam metal roof, with the peak at 50 feet.
> 
> ...


That looks like 9-12 to me


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## neumsky (Jul 19, 2013)

Joful said:


> 9:12, meh... what's the problem? I could sleep on steeper than that.
> 
> Here's what I have to deal with: 12:12 pitch, slippery raised seam metal roof, with the peak at 50 feet.
> 
> ...


How do you stay up there?


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## neumsky (Jul 19, 2013)

Goo





Sprinter said:


> I'm sure it's been said before, but if you have a probe-type flue thermometer, be sure to remove it first  Obvious, maybe, but easy to overlook.


Good idea haha


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## DanCorcoran (Jul 19, 2013)

Here's a step-by-step I posted a while ago, with photos:

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/cleaning-the-flue-on-a-hearthstone-shelburne.87644/#post-1134032


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## mepellet (Jul 19, 2013)

Sprinter said:


> If you are burning properly, you shouldn't *have* to clean mid-season. If you do, you're doing something wrong.


 
I may not HAVE to but I like to be safe.  I clean my pellet stove venting a few times a year.  Not because I have to but because it takes only a couple minutes and it provides peace of mind.


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## Ashful (Jul 19, 2013)

neumsky said:


> That looks like 9-12 to me


 

Perspective can be confusing.  It's 12:12, measured it at 45 degrees myself.



neumsky said:


> How do you stay up there?


 

Chicken ladder.  Truth be told, I don't go up on roofs like that anymore.  I like being not paralyzed.  I pay someone to do it, now.  I have a love-hate relationship with my chimney guy.  He hates my house.


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## mepellet (Jul 19, 2013)

DanCorcoran said:


> Here's a step-by-step I posted a while ago, with photos:
> 
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/cleaning-the-flue-on-a-hearthstone-shelburne.87644/#post-1134032


 Thanks!  You basically made the shop vac fitting that comes with the linteater with a plastic bag.


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## Ashful (Jul 19, 2013)

I found that a 1 gallon Rubbermaid pitcher is a perfect tight slip fit over my telescoping 6" stovepipe.  I drilled a hole in the bottom of it just large enough to pass the Sooteater rods/fittings thru, and it catches all the crap.

Procedure:
1.  Remove screws from stove collar and in the telescoping tube.
2.  Slide telescoping tube up a foot or two.
3.  Put Sooteater head with one length of rod into pitcher.
4.  Slide pitcher onto stove pipe and tape in place.
5.  Start spinning and feeding rods.

Reverse to finish.  If I want to be real neat, I can put a bag around/under the pitcher, to catch what makes it thru the loose-fitting hole in the bottom of the pitcher.


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## oldspark (Jul 19, 2013)

So Joful you live in a mansion, very nice house.


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## charly (Jul 19, 2013)

Sooteater works great... Loosen the screw in the head and pull the line through to get the length you need on one side, lock the screw and cut the long side to length,,, now you'll have enough left over for a reload... I also used the soot eater to unclog a 4 inch gray water drain that made a 90 after leaving my basement wall at about 6 feet.. Sure beat getting a water jet... Used all the rods, worked great... Chimney, I just don't spin the crap out of the rods as you have the metal connectors bouncing around,  don't think that would do my chimney liner very good.. Works great!  Worth every penny..


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## ridemgis (Jul 19, 2013)

mepellet said:


> I am likely going to purchase one for my wood stove after I finish getting it installed this fall.  I love my Linteater that I use for my pellet stove venting which is an up and out install.
> 
> The one question that I have though is that I am going to have a straight up chimney install (slight offset in the attic) with a telescoping double wall stove pipe section coming off the top of the wood stove.  I would rather not get up on the roof in the winter to clean the chimney so can I disconnect the telescoping stove pipe from the stove and run the sooteater up through the chimney?  Wouldn't this create a huge mess inside?  A shop vac attachment comes with the linteater so that you can run your shop vac while using the linteater.  Does the sooteater come with a similar attachment?



I found it pretty easy to take out the baffle and run right up through the stove pipe.  Add a plastic sheet seal around the door and you won't see a spot of soot in the house.


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## Sprinter (Jul 19, 2013)

charly said:


> Sooteater works great... Loosen the screw in the head and pull the line through to get the length you need on one side, lock the screw and cut the long side to length,,, now you'll have enough left over for a reload... I also used the soot eater to unclog a 4 inch gray water drain that made a 90 after leaving my basement wall at about 6 feet.. Sure beat getting a water jet... Used all the rods, worked great... Chimney, I just don't spin the crap out of the rods as you have the metal connectors bouncing around, don't think that would do my chimney liner very good.. Works great! Worth every penny..


Where were you before I cut both sides of the lines like the directions say???  Oh well... 

Good tip on the rotorooter use.


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## Lakeside (Jul 19, 2013)

Here's another tip for ya.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...n-chimney-first-time-tips.90981/#post-1189802


Sooteater bottom up is the way to go !


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## charly (Jul 19, 2013)

Sprinter said:


> Where were you before I cut both sides of the lines like the directions say??? Oh well...
> 
> Good tip on the rotorooter use.


I know, they should tell people that in the directions....


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## alforit (Jul 19, 2013)

charly said:


> I know, they should tell people that in the directions....


 
Hah ! Very smart Charly


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## Sprinter (Jul 19, 2013)

alforit said:


> Hah ! Very smart Charly


Think twice, cut once.  Or something like that.


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## mepellet (Jul 19, 2013)

ridemgis said:


> I found it pretty easy to take out the baffle and run right up through the stove pipe.  Add a plastic sheet seal around the door and you won't see a spot of soot in the house.


Thanks!


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## DanCorcoran (Jul 19, 2013)

Removing baffle on a Shelburne is much more work than disconnecting 3 screws and lifting the stove pipe.  Different stoves need different solutions.


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## neumsky (Aug 16, 2013)

DanCorcoran said:


> Here's a step-by-step I posted a while ago, with photos:
> 
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/cleaning-the-flue-on-a-hearthstone-shelburne.87644/#post-1134032


Dan...that's fantastic info! I've lifted my flue pipe already...now all I've gotta do is get the sooteater and blue tape haha


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## DanCorcoran (Aug 16, 2013)

neumsky said:


> Dan...that's fantastic info! I've lifted my flue pipe already...now all I've gotta do is get the sooteater and blue tape haha


 
To heck with the plastic and tape, live dangerously!  (I assume you can run faster than your wife.)


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## begreen (Aug 16, 2013)

Does anyone use a sooteater on a stove that you don't have to separate the connector from the stove? How does it work on a stove where you just drop the baffle? I'm thinking of getting one of these.


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## fossil (Aug 16, 2013)

I use a Sooteater from the bottom up on both my stove systems, and leave the flue systems intact.  Removing the baffle in the Century is simple...couple of bricks.  In the Lopi it's not so simple, but it ain't rocket science, and the manual has a nice set of illustrated instructions to use as a guide.


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## begreen (Aug 16, 2013)

With the stove in the living room, my concern control of the soot dust from coming into the room. Do you drape plastic around the door opening or just leave a vac running with the hose in the firebox?


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## 1750 (Aug 17, 2013)

DanCorcoran said:


> Here's a step-by-step I posted a while ago, with photos:
> 
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/cleaning-the-flue-on-a-hearthstone-shelburne.87644/#post-1134032


This is really great.  Thanks for taking the time to document it.

Has anyone done this with a double-walled pipe?  Without the telescoping section, I'm not sure how to get the pipe apart. 

Also, if you do clean from top down, are you concerned with the crud collecting in the bottom?  Maybe it just falls through to the box?

Thanks.


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## graycatman (Aug 17, 2013)

begreen said:


> With the stove in the living room, my concern control of the soot dust from coming into the room. Do you drape plastic around the door opening or just leave a vac running with the hose in the firebox?


 
I use a Sooteater on my free standing Summit.  Drop the baffle and go bottom up.  30' stack, Selkirk DSP into Metalbestos.  Don't use the plastic sheet.  Use my shopvac with a HEPA filter and heavy-duty bag, both rated for cold ash.  stick the nozzle in the back of the box.  Does a great job and no dust in  the room.


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## mepellet (Aug 17, 2013)

1750 said:


> Has anyone done this with a double-walled pipe?  Without the telescoping section, I'm not sure how to get the pipe apart.


There are double wall telescoping sections. http://www.woodstovepro.com/store/Selkirk-6-DSP-Telescopic-Length-266084-DSP6TL-p20248.html


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## jharkin (Aug 17, 2013)

I love the sooteater. I have two heads for it and use it for the stove, both fireplace flues, even the boiler flue. My new trick is to run the vac outside and run a long hose in through a window. Don't get any dust or even odor that way.

On the stove I open the clean out tee and plastic the bottom with the sooteater run up through a hole in the plastic. I run the vac hose in to the horizontal pipe run through the stove. For the fireplace I plastic over the opening and run the vac hose in there. I even use the sooteater to clean out the smoke shelf area by running it side to side on one rod section.


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## Mitch Newton (Aug 17, 2013)

Joful said:


> 9:12, meh... what's the problem? I could sleep on steeper than that.
> 
> Here's what I have to deal with: 12:12 pitch, slippery raised seam metal roof, with the peak at 50 feet.
> 
> ...


 
Beautiful roof!


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## Woody Stover (Aug 17, 2013)

How flexible are the rods? I'm wondering if I could clean a Fireview from the bottom with it. It's got a 90 elbow right off the rear-exit flue collar.


begreen said:


> With the stove in the living room, my concern control of the soot dust from coming into the room. Do you drape plastic around the door opening or just leave a vac running with the hose in the firebox?


What I have done when I'm cleaning and there's not much draft, is to put a box fan in a window on high, blowing into the house.


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## 1750 (Aug 17, 2013)

mepellet said:


> There are double wall telescoping sections. http://www.woodstovepro.com/store/Selkirk-6-DSP-Telescopic-Length-266084-DSP6TL-p20248.html


My double-walled pipe isn't telescoping. I'm not sure how to get it apart to clean from the bottom.

If I can't figure it out, I'll have to see if working the bricks on the upper ledge of the firebox is feasible and would give me access to clean it. I'm not sure from the manual if this gives me access to the pipe.  I'd much rather not go up on the roof if I can avoid it!

http://www.fireplaces-rochester-ny.com/manuals/LOPI/Lopi Wood Stoves/Republic 1750 Manual.pdf


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## begreen (Aug 17, 2013)

graycatman said:


> I use a Sooteater on my free standing Summit. Drop the baffle and go bottom up. 30' stack, Selkirk DSP into Metalbestos. Don't use the plastic sheet. Use my shopvac with a HEPA filter and heavy-duty bag, both rated for cold ash. stick the nozzle in the back of the box. Does a great job and no dust in the room.


That's convinced me. Ordering one today.

1750, gently remove the rear baffle bricks and plate. Then I think you should be able to do a bottom up cleaning.


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## jharkin (Aug 17, 2013)

You can bent sooteater sections in a U easily.  Order a little more length than you need to reach the cap, the flexible rod flops around in the pipe and doesnt stretch out completely straight.


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## DanCorcoran (Aug 17, 2013)

jharkin said:


> You can bent sooteater sections in a U easily. Order a little more length than you need to reach the cap, the flexible rod flops around in the pipe and doesnt stretch out completely straight.


 
Perhaps you can bend a rod in a "u" shape, but I had trouble getting one to bend 90 degrees. They were much stiffer than I expected, but they worked great.  I'm going to revive my gym membership on Monday...


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## Ashful (Aug 17, 2013)

jharkin said:


> Order a little more length than you need to reach the cap, the flexible rod flops around in the pipe and doesnt stretch out completely straight.


 
I have a fairly tall chimney, so I was looking at ordering extra rods, when I realized it was about the same price to just order two sooteaters.  Now, I have the extra rods I need, plus a spare sooteater head.


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## HDRock (Aug 18, 2013)

Joful said:


> I have a fairly tall chimney, so I was looking at ordering extra rods, when I realized it was about the same price to just order two sooteaters. Now, I have the extra rods I need, plus a spare sooteater head.


I am going to get one of these puppies , I think I can get buy with the basic kit ,shipped to my zip, for, $ 48.91, two kits shipped is  $91.75 or  they have a  combo kit with 12 rods for $77.37
On sale now At  Smarthome


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## charly (Aug 18, 2013)

With concern as how far the Soot Eater can bend,, I unplugged a soap build up in a plugged four inch PVC gray water pipe.. Left the basement for 6 feet then made a 90 degree bend... Used all my rods from two kits and now had a super clean 4 inch gray water pipe.. Worked sweet...


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## Nick Mystic (Aug 18, 2013)

In the directions for the Sooteater they specifically show a diagram with an X through it indicating you should not bend a rod 90 degrees as it will damage the product.  When I cleaned my SS liner recently I worked from the roof down since I have easy access to my roof and chimney. I can see a major advantage to cleaning from the bottom up when such access is more difficult. With my stove set up on a Jotul F 600 I would have to work through the bottom of my T connector, which isn't easily accessible. With a pipe exiting straight up out of a stove if there is no 90 bend involved you should be good to go.


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## DanCorcoran (Aug 18, 2013)

Nick Mystic said:


> In the directions for the Sooteater they specifically show a diagram with an X through it indicating you should not bend a rod 90 degrees as it will damage the product.


 
Whew...thanks.  I just cancelled my gym membership again.


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## arro222 (Aug 18, 2013)

I had a lot of trouble with mine. It may have had something to do with my flue being 7x11 and thus the rod being able to swim around too much. I pushed the thing up one rod at a time. When I turned the drill on, it set up such a twist in the rod that you could not use it. The thing was pouncing off the flue walls with that hard ball ricocheting off the flue sides so hard that I got concerned with actually busting one of the flue tiles. My chimney is 25 ft tall and I sent it through the clean out door. It had to bend 90* but I tried it twice and found it easier just to climb the roof and sweep the chimney with the brush as I always had.


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## jharkin (Aug 18, 2013)

Joful said:


> I have a fairly tall chimney, so I was looking at ordering extra rods, when I realized it was about the same price to just order two sooteaters. Now, I have the extra rods I need, plus a spare sooteater head.


 
Good choice. You have even more chimneys than me so you will find the second head useful for different sized flues.


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## jharkin (Aug 18, 2013)

DanCorcoran said:


> Perhaps you can bend a rod in a "u" shape, but I had trouble getting one to bend 90 degrees. They were much stiffer than I expected, but they worked great. I'm going to revive my gym membership on Monday...


 


Nick Mystic said:


> In the directions for the Sooteater they specifically show a diagram with an X through it indicating you should not bend a rod 90 degrees as it will damage the product.


 

I wonder if they changed the material the rods are made of?? Mine are a soft whit non-rigid plastic. Feels like a vinyl type material. I just went down to the basement and tried again, and I effortlessly bent one in a loop. I think a child could bend these in half. My instructions dont have any warnings about 90s and show diagrams of cleaning a stovepipe by running the rod in the firebox door and turning 90 to go straight up the flue. Also photos of users bending them like so.


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## charly (Aug 18, 2013)

jharkin said:


> I wonder if they changed the material the rods are made of?? Mine are a soft whit non-rigid plastic. Feels like a vinyl type material. I just went down to the basement and tried again, and I effortlessly bent one in a loop. I think a child could bend these in half. My instructions dont have any warnings about 90s and show diagrams of cleaning a stovepipe by running the rod in the firebox door and turning 90 to go straight up the flue. Also photos of users bending them like so.


My set which are about 4 years old came with 3 white rods as you described and the rest were thicker black rods.. Both of my stove pipes don't require the 90 bend to clean.. Only my gray water drain had the 90 which still allowed the rods to slip around it easily..


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## jharkin (Aug 18, 2013)

Hmm yes mine is also 4 years old. Looks like they did change it.


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## DanCorcoran (Aug 18, 2013)

Mine are stiff black plastic, about 1/2" diameter.  You can see one to the left rear of the stove.  The curve shown is about the maximum I could bend it, without worrying that I'd snap it.  It has the silver connector just visible above the stove on the left.


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## DanCorcoran (Aug 18, 2013)

P.S.  I bought mine about a year ago.


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## jharkin (Aug 18, 2013)




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## 1750 (Aug 18, 2013)

begreen said:


> That's convinced me. Ordering one today.
> 
> 1750, gently remove the rear baffle bricks and plate. Then I think you should be able to do a bottom up cleaning.


Thanks.  I tried to take the double-walled pipe down today, but wasn't able to do it.  In the manual it looks like I might have to remove one of the air tubes to get at the rear baffle bricks -- though the description talks about a bypass damper, which the 1750 doesn't have, so maybe this manual is for a different generation.  

It's too bad a bottom-up cleaning isn't more directly feasible with most of these stoves.  I bet it would get done more reliably if people didn't have to go up on the roof!

Thanks again.


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## begreen (Aug 18, 2013)

I think you can leave the tube in and just remove the firebricks and the rear baffle plate. Look at page 30 in the 1750's manual.




PS: yes this seems to be copied from the Endeavor which has a bypass.


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## 1750 (Aug 18, 2013)

begreen said:


> I think you can leave the tube in and just remove the firebricks and the rear baffle plate. Look at page 30 in the 1750's manual.
> 
> View attachment 108889
> 
> ...


Thanks.  I don't know the territory well enough to understand what I'm looking at.  

If I can get the bricks up and out, does the baffle just lift off the support bracket/gasket?  In the illustration it looks like the support bracket and baffle are the same thing.  

Thanks again.


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## HDRock (Aug 18, 2013)

1750 said:


> Thanks. I tried to take the double-walled pipe down today, but wasn't able to do it. In the manual it looks like I might have to remove one of the air tubes to get at the rear baffle bricks -- though the description talks about a bypass damper, which the 1750 doesn't have, so maybe this manual is for a different generation.
> 
> It's too bad a bottom-up cleaning isn't more directly feasible with most of these stoves. I bet it would get done more reliably if people didn't have to go up on the roof!
> 
> Thanks again.


I just took the baffle bricks out of the 1750 I bought today,. front bricks, tip the back up, slide em back, tip front down slide em out, back bricks , slide middle support to front ,tip front of bricks down take em out, don't have to take out tubes, It is tricky though.


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## 1750 (Aug 18, 2013)

HDRock said:


> I just took the baffle bricks out of the 1750 I bought today,. front bricks, tip the back up, slide em back, tip front down slide em out, back bricks , slide middle support to front ,tip front of bricks down take em out, don't have to take out tubes, It is tricky though.


Thanks!  Would you be able to get access to the chimney when you do this?  (Did you take the baffle plate out, as well?)

Thanks again.


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## HDRock (Aug 18, 2013)

1750 said:


> Thanks! Would you be able to get access to the chimney when you do this? (Did you take the baffle plate out, as well?)
> 
> Thanks again.


Yes , once U slide the center support forward , you can see and U can go behind, or in front the back tube, in front of the rear Baffle Plate.
Getting dark out but pic U see Baffle Plate from top and a glimpse of the rear tube
 (Did you take the baffle plate out, as well?) No
Center support is one piece ,looks like 2 in manual


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## Nick Mystic (Aug 18, 2013)

I just ordered my Sooteater a couple of months ago and it has the black rods like the ones Dan described in his post. I didn't try bending one like Jeremy's photo, but I'd be surprised if I could without damaging it. So, maybe there is a difference between the white and black rods. I only had to use the six rods that come in one kit to do my flue and I didn't experience any problems with the rods bouncing around, but then too I was going straight down a 6" SS liner and not a rectangular clay tile. Also, I cut my lines a bit longer than the directions instructed. They say to cut a quarter inch longer than your inside diameter and I added another half inch, making them closer to 7". I figured a snugger fit might do a better job cleaning.


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## 1750 (Aug 18, 2013)

HDRock said:


> Yes , once U slide the center support forward , you can see and U can go behind, or in front the back tube, in front of the rear Baffle Plate.
> Getting dark out but pic U see Baffle Plate from top and a glimpse of the rear tube
> (Did you take the baffle plate out, as well?) No
> Center support is one piece ,looks like 2 in manual
> View attachment 108913


Wow, you have done me a big favor taking that picture.   I seriously appreciate you making this effort.

I'll have to take a look at this next weekend and have a run at it.  

Do you think the opening is large enough to allow a standard chimney brush to run up into it for cleaning, or just something like this more flexible Sooteater?

Thanks again for your help.


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## HDRock (Aug 18, 2013)

1750 said:


> Do you think the opening is large enough to allow a standard chimney brush to run up into it for cleaning, or just something like this more flexible Sooteater?


The standard chimney brush rods probably wouldn't work , but don't go by me, I wasn't thinking about that at the time , I'm not sure if the back support comes out or not , I will be taking out tubes and all ,and cleaning it all up, before I grab it and toss it in the house 




1750 said:


> Wow, you have done me a big favor taking that picture. I seriously appreciate you making this effort.


No prob ! I'll get some better ones for ya


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## begreen (Aug 18, 2013)

See if just the back baffle comes out, not the baffle support. That should be all you need for cleaning.


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## HDRock (Aug 18, 2013)

begreen said:


> See if just the back baffle comes out, not the baffle support. That should be all you need for cleaning.


The baffle Brick does come out


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## begreen (Aug 18, 2013)

Does the back baffle plate just lift out once the back baffle brick is removed?


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## HDRock (Aug 18, 2013)

begreen said:


> Does the back baffle plate just lift out once the back baffle brick is removed?


Yes it does, I did lift it slightly,  BUT
3:   The baffle plate is difficult to remove and should only be removed if necessary. Remove the rear secondary air tube. Slide the baffle plate forward and rotate it downwards (the baffle plate fits very snug inside the firebox and is very heavy, making it difficult to remove). The baffle plate gasket rests on the side and rear air channels

I didn't want to pull it cuz as U see , there is a gasket under it, don't want to get a bunch of crude on the gasket


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## HDRock (Aug 19, 2013)

Nick Mystic said:


> I just ordered my Sooteater a couple of months ago and it has the black rods like the ones Dan described in his post. I didn't try bending one like Jeremy's photo, but I'd be surprised if I could without damaging it. So, maybe there is a difference between the white and black rods. I only had to use the six rods that come in one kit to do my flue and I didn't experience any problems with the rods bouncing around, but then too I was going straight down a 6" SS liner and not a rectangular clay tile. Also, I cut my lines a bit longer than the directions instructed. They say to cut a quarter inch longer than your inside diameter and I added another half inch, making them closer to 7". I figured a snugger fit might do a better job cleaning.


That's the way it goes, the old rods just get more flexible


----------



## DanCorcoran (Aug 19, 2013)

HDRock said:


> That's the way it goes, the old rods just get more flexible


 
My condolences on your loss...


----------



## charly (Aug 19, 2013)

Nick Mystic said:


> I just ordered my Sooteater a couple of months ago and it has the black rods like the ones Dan described in his post. I didn't try bending one like Jeremy's photo, but I'd be surprised if I could without damaging it. So, maybe there is a difference between the white and black rods. I only had to use the six rods that come in one kit to do my flue and I didn't experience any problems with the rods bouncing around, but then too I was going straight down a 6" SS liner and not a rectangular clay tile. Also, I cut my lines a bit longer than the directions instructed. They say to cut a quarter inch longer than your inside diameter and I added another half inch, making them closer to 7". I figured a snugger fit might do a better job cleaning.


I'm thinking they might have stopped producing the white rods and moved onto just the thicker black rods to  help take the wobble out of the rods while spinning..


----------



## clemsonfor (Aug 19, 2013)

arro222 said:


> I had a lot of trouble with mine. It may have had something to do with my flue being 7x11 and thus the rod being able to swim around too much. I pushed the thing up one rod at a time. When I turned the drill on, it set up such a twist in the rod that you could not use it. The thing was pouncing off the flue walls with that hard ball ricocheting off the flue sides so hard that I got concerned with actually busting one of the flue tiles. My chimney is 25 ft tall and I sent it through the clean out door. It had to bend 90* but I tried it twice and found it easier just to climb the roof and sweep the chimney with the brush as I always had.


 I have basically the same setup, my chimney is like 23ish though.  And my tiles are that size as well, they flopped around but they also beat all the creosote off the walls, the rods wobbled but no big deal here, I mean its  clean enough for a chimney


jharkin said:


> I wonder if they changed the material the rods are made of?? Mine are a soft whit non-rigid plastic. Feels like a vinyl type material. I just went down to the basement and tried again, and I effortlessly bent one in a loop. I think a child could bend these in half. My instructions dont have any warnings about 90s and show diagrams of cleaning a stovepipe by running the rod in the firebox door and turning 90 to go straight up the flue. Also photos of users bending them like so.


Mine are a black plastic like others say. I ordered mine from amazon thorough some 3rd party hardware or stove sore or something?? I got it begenning of this summer.


----------



## rideau (Aug 19, 2013)

I'm wondering if they had a liability issue with the old rods.  There is one description of the unit flying out of a chimney and whipping around a room.  If there were people or animals in the room, I can envision serious injuries in such a situation....Just a thought.  Too bad, because sounds like the flexible rods solve a lot of problems for some.


----------



## NortheastAl (Aug 19, 2013)

I have the black rods and cleaned my Endeavor from the door. I had to make almost a 90° bend, and it worked. I wanted to see if it could be done without disconnecting any flue pipe and I was happy it worked so well.


----------



## 1750 (Aug 19, 2013)

HDRock said:


> Yes it does, I did lift it slightly, BUT
> 3: The baffle plate is difficult to remove and should only be removed if necessary. Remove the rear secondary air tube. Slide the baffle plate forward and rotate it downwards (the baffle plate fits very snug inside the firebox and is very heavy, making it difficult to remove). The baffle plate gasket rests on the side and rear air channels
> 
> I didn't want to pull it cuz as U see , there is a gasket under it, don't want to get a bunch of crude on the gasket


I'm sort of concerned about pulling that apart and then not being able to get it back together.


----------



## Woody Stover (Aug 20, 2013)

1750 said:


> I'm sort of concerned about pulling that apart and then not being able to get it back together.


Start early so you have plenty of time before it gets cold.


----------



## jharkin (Aug 20, 2013)

Cant be any worse than the job I have ahead of me putting a cemented in fireback back into a 15 year old Vermont Castings.  Go for it!


----------



## HDRock (Aug 20, 2013)

1750 said:


> I'm sort of concerned about pulling that apart and then not being able to get it back together.


All U would be doing is taking out the baffle bricks, it is really very simple, just get them in the right position and slide em out but,  don't try taking out the air tubes, the roll pins are not easy


----------



## 1750 (Aug 20, 2013)

HDRock said:


> All U would be doing is taking out the baffle bricks, it is really very simple, just get them in the right position and slide em out but, don't try taking out the air tubes, the roll pins are not easy


So I would be able to get access to the chimney to clean it by just removing the bricks?   I don't have to take that baffle plate out (that's the part that sounded tricky).

Thanks.


----------



## HDRock (Aug 20, 2013)

1750 said:


> So I would be able to get access to the chimney to clean it by just removing the bricks? I don't have to take that baffle plate out (that's the part that sounded tricky).
> 
> Thanks.


Ya U could fit a sooteater up through there but U *don't* want to take out that big baffle plate while using the soot eater , cuz U would destroy the gasket.
I did take that out today while cleaning ,plus the baffle supports .
Not only that , U must be very careful and lift up on the baffle plate while sliding it in or out , U could damage the gasket just by taking out, or putting the plate in.
I could see what I was doing cuz of no pipe on there
Pic , parts out, left pic, rear shot U see air tube top of pic, middle pic front shot U see gasket


----------



## 1750 (Aug 20, 2013)

HDRock said:


> Ya U could fit a sooteater up through there but U *don't* want to take out that big baffle plate while using the soot eater , cuz U would destroy the gasket.
> I did take that out today while cleaning ,plus the baffle supports .
> Not only that , U must be very careful and lift up on the baffle plate while sliding it in or out , U could damage the gasket just by taking out, or putting the plate in.
> I could see what I was doing cuz of no pipe on there
> ...


It's my good luck that you bought that 1750!  

If I could get a flexible brush up there without ever taking the baffle out... I don't think I would ever take the baffle out!   Actually, from the drawing I'm not even sure why there is a baffle there.  It would seem like it could just be a fixed piece of steel.

Regardless, thanks so much for taking the time to answer my questions and post those pictures.   It's very nice of you and I do really appreciate it.


----------



## HDRock (Aug 20, 2013)

1750 said:


> It's my good luck that you bought that 1750!
> 
> If I could get a flexible brush up there without ever taking the baffle out... I don't think I would ever take the baffle out! Actually, from the drawing I'm not even sure why there is a baffle there. It would seem like it could just be a fixed piece of steel.
> 
> Regardless, thanks so much for taking the time to answer my questions and post those pictures. It's very nice of you and I do really appreciate it.


Glad to help. 
The  baffle plate is also a support for the back bricks, why the gasket is there  not sure yet


----------



## 1750 (Aug 20, 2013)

HDRock said:


> Glad to help.
> The baffle plate is also a support for the back bricks, why the gasket is there  not sure yet


When you figure it out... let me know!

Also, I think you mentioned something about your stove needing legs in your other thread?  I ended up buying the pedestal for mine, but it was already outfitted with the legs (it was a display model).   If you happen to need legs for your stove, I'd be very happy to send them to you (for free, of course).   I live in Grand Rapids... even snail mail would get them to Grand Blanc in just a couple of days.


----------



## begreen (Aug 20, 2013)

Thanks for the pictures HD Rock. This is helpful info.


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## HDRock (Aug 20, 2013)

1750 said:


> When you figure it out... let me know!
> 
> Also, I think you mentioned something about your stove needing legs in your other thread? I ended up buying the pedestal for mine, but it was already outfitted with the legs (it was a display model). If you happen to need legs for your stove, I'd be very happy to send them to you (for free, of course). I live in Grand Rapids... even snail mail would get them to Grand Blanc in just a couple of days.


 
Nope,   I have legs but they don't work as good in the morning though 

Ya ,stove has legs,  I would rather have the pedestal , how much did the pedestal cost ya


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## HDRock (Aug 20, 2013)

begreen said:


> Thanks for the pictures HD Rock. This is helpful info.


Well thread is kinda off but file it in your memory banks bro  nice size


----------



## 1750 (Aug 20, 2013)

HDRock said:


> Nope, I have legs but they don't work as good in the morning though
> 
> Ya ,stove has legs, I would rather have the pedestal , how much did the pedestal cost ya


I know that feeling!

I just checked the invoice and the pedestal was $193.   With the money you didn't spend on the new stove (which, frankly, looks just as nice as mine does), you can splurge and pick up that pedestal.  Or, knowing your luck, tomorrow you'll see a CL post for "Pedestal kit for Lopi 1750 -  $10."

As my dad always said:  Better lucky than good.


----------



## HDRock (Aug 20, 2013)

1750 said:


> I know that feeling!
> 
> I just checked the invoice and the pedestal was $193. With the money you didn't spend on the new stove (which, frankly, looks just as nice as mine does), you can splurge and pick up that pedestal. Or, knowing your luck, tomorrow you'll see a CL post for "Pedestal kit for Lopi 1750 - $10."
> 
> As my dad always said: Better lucky than good.


It's all good  I fried my brain on CL, lookin for a used stove , missed a $200 deal


----------



## neumsky (Aug 23, 2013)

So...with all you experienced wood burners...how many of you have experience with both the soot eater and the standard rods and brush system...I have 20 feet of straight 6 inch pipe and can pick the rod & brush at Lowes. To me it seems as tho it would do as good or better than the soot eater?


----------



## begreen (Aug 23, 2013)

You're fine if you prefer the rod and brush system. It likely does a better job, particularly if there is a serious accumulation in the pipe. And if you are up top, you can eyeball down the pipe for a more thorough inspection. Regardless, my days on steep roof need to come to an end before I do, so for me it will be the sooteater to get at the fairly light annual buildup. Ordered one yesterday.


----------



## neumsky (Aug 23, 2013)

begreen said:


> You're fine if you prefer the rod and brush system. It likely does a better job, particularly if there is a serious accumulation in the pipe. And if you are up top, you can eyeball down the pipe for a more thorough inspection. Regardless, my days on steep roof need to come to an end before I do, so for me it will be the sooteater to get at the fairly light annual buildup. Ordered one yesterday.



But begreen...can't we use the standard and brush system from below?


----------



## begreen (Aug 23, 2013)

Yes, though I thought top down was preferred for dust catching and to allow a better inspection of the top of the pipe. In our setup this seems to be where most accumulation occurs.

Full disclosure, due to our roof and the pipe location I have paid for the last few sweeps. (pipe installed in 2006) They have always done it top down.


----------



## neumsky (Aug 23, 2013)

I'm with you but it





begreen said:


> Yes, though I thought top down was preferred for dust catching and to allow a better inspection of the top of the pipe. In our setup this seems to be where most accumulation occurs.
> 
> Full disclosure, due to our roof and the pipe location I have paid for the last few sweeps. (pipe installed in 2006) They have always done it top down.


 seems as tho you would have that issue with either the soot eater or the standard rod & brush. Did you ever think...they don't do it from the bottom up...so you could go out and buy one and do it yourself? Haha...I mean...who wants to get on a 9/12 or steeper? Job security!


----------



## begreen (Aug 23, 2013)

You could very well be right. We usually have a pretty light accumulation, though the year before we clogged the cap screen for the first time by burning some less than ideal wood. Ask me in a couple weeks. I'll either be cursing or delighted.

edit: FWIW, my thought was in order to guarantee no soot in the house when top down sweeping I would lift the telescoping pipe off the flue collar and tape bag around the pipe. But like I said, this is no longer an option for my old bones.


----------



## rideau (Aug 23, 2013)

I clean from below using the garbage bag technique after watching the company that installed my pipe do so for four years.  They never had a ladder with them long enough to reach my roof, and didn't want to take mine out of the basement.  Fifth year when they called, I told them I wanted in cleaned top down and the cap inspected.  They told me they did that every year.  Now, I was there....so I cancelled the sweep, ordered rods and a brush from Woodstock, and cleaned the chimney from below for two years.  Then two years ago had a friend climb the steep, high roof and check the cap, pipe and sweep from above.  He told me it was clear, and we only got about a cup of soot.   Recently cleaned from below, about a cup total again.  I have no mess with the garbage bag taped to support box method.


----------



## begreen (Aug 23, 2013)

With good dry wood, a proper flue and a modern EPA stove the odds are that will all you will be seeing.


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## neumsky (Aug 23, 2013)

Joful...do you get up 





Joful said:


> 9:12, meh... what's the problem? I could sleep on steeper than that.
> 
> Here's what I have to deal with: 12:12 pitch, slippery raised seam metal roof, with the peak at 50 feet.
> 
> ...


there?


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## 1750 (Aug 23, 2013)

For you top-downers, are you concerned about the crud accumulating at the bottom?

It seems like it would lie on the baffle, and maybe just burn up?


----------



## Ashful (Aug 23, 2013)

neumsky said:


> Joful...do you get up there?


Hell no!  I've been up there once (or twice?), and my arse puckers tight enough to crush diamond, just shimmying the last few steps from the top of the ladder up the chimney side, to inspect the cap.  A 40' ladder stops about 2 - 3 feet shy of the crown at full extension, and as scary as those photos look, it's 20x worse looking down from up there.


I pay someone to go up there... because I enjoy not being dead.


----------



## charly (Aug 23, 2013)

I'd get the soot eater... I look at it as sanding by hand with brush and rods or sanding with an orbital sander using the Soot Eater... I can tell you this year my roofers took my class A chimney down that was hooked to my Esse cook stove.. I had cleaned it 2 years in a row with the soot eater from the bottom up .. I cleaned it before they came and after taking the pipes down, the soot eater had cleaned everything including the cap! That's proof to me that it works!


----------



## Nick Mystic (Aug 23, 2013)

When I used my Sooteater I cleaned from the top down on our Jotul F 600.  Later, when I cleaned the short stove pipe in my lower level on my Woodstock Classic (single wall pipe connects through a thimble into a clay liner) I took the four foot long section of pipe and its two 90 degree elbows outside to clean with the Sooteater and a wire brush. After seeing how well the Sooteater cleaned that section of pipe I came away thinking that you probably could do a somewhat reasonable job of cleaning the inside of your rain cap if you cleaned from the bottom up. You would want to be sure you got the Sooteater head fully to the top of the cap and you'd want to spend some extra time moving it up and down just a foot or so to give the lines a good chance to knock free any built up creosote. If you had someone outside with binoculars watching your cap as you worked it would be even better.


----------



## charly (Aug 23, 2013)

Nick Mystic said:


> When I used my Sooteater I cleaned from the top down on our Jotul F 600. Later, when I cleaned the short stove pipe in my lower level on my Woodstock Classic (single wall pipe connects through a thimble into a clay liner) I took the four foot long section of pipe and its two 90 degree elbows outside to clean with the Sooteater and a wire brush. After seeing how well the Sooteater cleaned that section of pipe I came away thinking that you probably could do a somewhat reasonable job of cleaning the inside of your rain cap if you cleaned from the bottom up. You would want to be sure you got the Sooteater head fully to the top of the cap and you'd want to spend some extra time moving it up and down just a foot or so to give the lines a good chance to knock free any built up creosote. If you had someone outside with binoculars watching your cap as you worked it would be even better.


When I get near the cap, I feel with the soot eater rod to hit the cap before running the drill, now I know I'm in the cap area for sure and like you said , work it well.. What a handy tool that has turned out to be... who'd ever think a weed whacker would one day clean your chimney   That's it, we'll make an attachment so a weed whacker can be used to run the Soot Eater


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## HDRock (Aug 24, 2013)

1750 said:


> For you top-downers, are you concerned about the crud accumulating at the bottom?
> 
> It seems like it would lie on the baffle, and maybe just burn up?


I think  it would lie on the baffle, unless U could figure a way to get a vacuum up in there to suck it out. Would it burn up ? IDK
I will be taking the pipe apart and put a bag on, so that doesn't happen


----------



## 1750 (Aug 24, 2013)

HDRock said:


> I think it would lie on the baffle, unless U could figure a way to get a vacuum up in there to suck it out. Would it burn up ? IDK
> I will be taking the pipe apart and put a bag on, so that doesn't happen


I think that would be best, too.   I just can't figure out how to get that double-walled pipe apart!


----------



## CenterTree (Aug 24, 2013)

Nick Mystic said:


> When I used my Sooteater I cleaned from the top down on our Jotul F 600. Later, when I cleaned the short stove pipe in my lower level on my Woodstock Classic (single wall pipe connects through a thimble into a clay liner) I took the four foot long section of pipe and its two 90 degree elbows outside to clean with the Sooteater and a wire brush. After seeing how well the Sooteater cleaned that section of pipe I came away thinking that you probably could do a somewhat reasonable job of cleaning the inside of your rain cap if you cleaned from the bottom up*. You would want to be sure you got the Sooteater head fully to the top of the cap and you'd want to spend some extra time moving it up and down just a foot or so to give the lines a good chance to knock free any built up creosote.* If you had someone outside with binoculars watching your cap as you worked it would be even better.


 
Do you feel that the Sooteater will not bust out the mesh in the rain cap?

I was just assuming that the force from the spinning whips would rip holes in the mesh. 

Of course there is not much sense in cleaning the flue all the way up and then NOT being able to clean the cap too.


----------



## begreen (Aug 24, 2013)

Not if it is a DuraTech cap. That is a tough stainless mesh.


----------



## Nick Mystic (Aug 24, 2013)

I have a basic stove shop rain cap and when I used my Sooteater on it down on the ground after I brought it off the roof I could see clearly what was happening. I spun the head around inside the cap several times passing up and down the pipe and screening. It knocked the creosote off pretty well and did not damage the screen at all. You would have to have a pretty flimsy mesh in your cap to have a problem in my opinion. I was able to knock some additional creosote off with a wire hand brush, but the little I removed this way wouldn't have amounted to much had I left it in place. It was more of a cosmetic clean up.


----------



## charly (Aug 25, 2013)

CenterTree said:


> Do you feel that the Sooteater will not bust out the mesh in the rain cap?
> 
> I was just assuming that the force from the spinning whips would rip holes in the mesh.
> 
> Of course there is not much sense in cleaning the flue all the way up and then NOT being able to clean the cap too.


Use common sense and spin the soot eater slower while working the cap.. I'd say the wire will be like a knife edge to the whips, but would still just use your drill on a slower speed once at the cap...


----------



## Ashful (Aug 25, 2013)

Wire?  My mesh cap is expanded stainless steel sheet.  No way in hell the sooteater will hurt it... just the opposite, in fact!


----------



## Sprinter (Aug 25, 2013)

Just reading through these posts.  Makes me feel very lucky that I can clean top-down and "easily" remove my baffle.  I'm not sure I'd want to go through some of these issues unless maybe I had telescoping pipe.  I think in some cases, it's just wiser to have it done.

One observation I've had after using my sooteater: It's really just for easy, light buildup.  I don't think it would work well on difficult or thick creosote.  Powdery soot and light, crinkly creosote okay, but if it's clinging to the sides too much, it just isn't going to cut it.  If you are doing things right, you shouldn't have that kind of buildup anyway with modern stoves, but still you should be aware of that.


----------



## neumsky (Aug 27, 2013)

Joful said:


> Hell no!  I've been up there once (or twice?), and my arse puckers tight enough to crush diamond, just shimmying the last few steps from the top of the ladder up the chimney side, to inspect the cap.  A 40' ladder stops about 2 - 3 feet shy of the crown at full extension, and as scary as those photos look, it's 20x worse looking down from up there.
> 
> 
> I pay someone to go up there... because I enjoy not being dead.


. TOOOOO FUNNY,


----------



## Ashful (Aug 27, 2013)

Joful said:


> I pay someone to go up there... because I enjoy not being dead.


 
My father owned a small structural / civil / architectural engineering firm, when I was growing up.  They received a contract to build a new stadium for the local high school, which was seeing record attendance in those days.  During the project, a man fell from one of the lighting towers and was killed, which must have left a lasting impression on me.  It turned out this man was the father of one of my school friends.


----------



## neumsky (Aug 27, 2013)

Joful said:


> My father owned a small structural / civil / architectural engineering firm, when I was growing up.  They received a contract to build a new stadium for the local high school, which was seeing record attendance in those days.  During the project, a man fell from one of the lighting towers and was killed, which must have left a lasting impression on me.  It turned out this man was the father of one of my school friends.



I too used to be a house builder...and seen my share of mishaps...I'm afraid of heights...and just turned 35 years of what I do for a living haha


----------



## northwinds (Aug 27, 2013)

neumsky said:


> I too used to be a house builder...and seen my share of mishaps...I'm afraid of heights...and just turned 35 years of what I do for a living haha


 
I still get up on my roof, but I don't like it much, even though the pitch isn't bad.  I always think of Max McGee, a former Packer player with oodles of money from business investments. Instead of paying a guy, Max fell off his roof at age 75 while he was blowing off leaves in the gutters.


----------



## Treacherous (Aug 31, 2013)

I did my annual cleaning with Sooteater.  More than I wanted to see but this years fuel is especially dry so we'll see how it goes.  I did a more thorough cleaning of cap this time so that might have contributed to volume.  You can't really tell from picture but it was quite brown overall in color so that is encouraging.


----------



## clemsonfor (Aug 31, 2013)

Not bad I'd say


----------



## HDRock (Aug 31, 2013)

Treacherous said:


> I did my annual cleaning with Sooteater. More than I wanted to see but this years fuel is especially dry so we'll see how it goes. I did a more thorough cleaning of cap this time so that might have contributed to volume. You can't really tell from picture but it was quite brown overall in color so that is encouraging.


I'm curious ,I just installed a Lopi Republic
Do you remove the baffle bricks(edit , I guess U must have) and ,do you vacuum or brush off the crap that lands in top of the baffle plate  in the back


----------



## clemsonfor (Aug 31, 2013)

I'd vac anything up in the stove after I brush.


----------



## NortheastAl (Sep 1, 2013)

HDRock said:


> I'm curious ,I just installed a Lopi Republic
> Do you remove the baffle bricks(edit , I guess U must have) and ,do you vacuum or brush off the crap that lands in top of the baffle plate  in the back


The Endeavor has a bypass that allows you to go straight up the back of the stove. If you notice, the secondary tubes are still in place on that pic. Il so do vacuum up between the baffle and flue at the edges of the bypass. 

The republic does require a baffle brick removal, if I'm not mistaken. Or you could take out the flue pipe. Should say in the manual.


----------



## HDRock (Sep 1, 2013)

NortheastAl said:


> The Endeavor has a bypass that allows you to go straight up the back of the stove. If you notice, the secondary tubes are still in place on that pic. Il so do vacuum up between the baffle and flue at the edges of the bypass.
> 
> The republic does require a baffle brick removal, if I'm not mistaken. Or you could take out the flue pipe. Should say in the manual.


Ok ,I forgot the Endeavor has a bypass
I have had everything in the top of my stove removed , and yes it, does require removing the baffle bricks, but I might just pull the pipe up ,put on a bag and avoid the crap falling in the stove


----------



## clemsonfor (Sep 1, 2013)

That's what I'd do


----------



## Sprinter (Sep 1, 2013)

HDRock said:


> Ok ,I forgot the Endeavor has a bypass
> I have had everything in the top of my stove removed , and yes it, does require removing the baffle bricks, but I might just pull the pipe up ,put on a bag and avoid the crap falling in the stove


If you have a telescoping pipe, then that's the way to go.


----------



## Treacherous (Sep 1, 2013)

Pic was taken before I shoveled creosote out of the stove.  

I never completely vacuum out my stove but shovel out everything I can.  The bypass certainly makes using the Sooteater (7 poles with my install) a quick and easy task on my Endeavor.


----------



## HDRock (Sep 1, 2013)

Treacherous said:


> Pic was taken before I shoveled creosote out of the stove.
> 
> I never completely vacuum out my stove but shovel out everything I can. The bypass certainly makes using the Sooteater (7 poles with my install) a quick and easy task on my Endeavor.


I realize that Pic was taken before you shoveled creosote out of the stove/ , and , I also ,never completely vacuum out my stove but shovel out everything I can
Thanks


----------



## northwinds (Sep 2, 2013)

Today, I used the sooteater for a second consecutive year.  This year I went from the bottom up.  Seemed to go better taking the rods off this year.  Last year, that seemed like
a pain in the butt.  Got about a quart of dry powder from 23 feet of chimney with a couple pairs of 45s.  That's the first cleaning since last summer with 24/7 burning last season.  I can live with that.


----------



## Ashful (Sep 2, 2013)

Why are you guys waiting until fall to clean your pipes?  I usually clean at the end of the season, not the beginning, figuring I don't want that corrosive chit sitting in the tube thru the summer humidity.


----------



## Treacherous (Sep 2, 2013)

Low humidity during the summer where I am.


----------



## Sprinter (Sep 2, 2013)

Joful said:


> I don't want that corrosive chit sitting in the tube thru the summer humidity.


I believe some manufacturers require early cleaning as a condition of warranty.  Probably because of corrosion.  Or they want a convenient "out" of a claim.


----------



## northwinds (Sep 3, 2013)

Joful said:


> Why are you guys waiting until fall to clean your pipes?  I usually clean at the end of the season, not the beginning, figuring I don't want that corrosive chit sitting in the tube thru the summer humidity.



Procrastination.


----------



## Ashful (Sep 3, 2013)

northwinds said:


> Procrastination.


----------



## Mr A (Sep 3, 2013)

I have an oval pipe. Just guessing, when trimming the line to fit my flue, I would  cut to the longest length across the oval? The directions say to cut 1/4" more the length of the diagonal of a square or rectangle, or the diameter of flue. It says on the box it does oval, but leaves it out of the instructions.


----------



## Nick Mystic (Sep 3, 2013)

That's what I would do. The lines are pretty flexible, so I don't see a problem with the longer length causing problems with the shorter sides. I think the line will just rub with its side against the pipe rather than the tip. Then again, the head of the device moves around a bit as it wobbles and rotates inside the pipe, so the tips will probably still hit the near sides from time to time.


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## fire_man (Sep 4, 2013)

I used my Sooteater for the first time and here are the results:

The good: It cleaned the flue really well (bottom up method into a T)
The bad:   What a mess! next time I will be more careful to seal the opening!
The ugly:  I toasted my nearly brand new 14V cordless drill!  The gears sound like there are marbles in them. Next time I use a real drill.

Overall it did what I wanted, no more ladders and climbing on the roof.


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## Sprinter (Sep 4, 2013)

fire_man said:


> The ugly: I toasted my nearly brand new 14V cordless drill! The gears sound like there are marbles in them. Next time I use a real drill.


Wow, sorry to hear about the drill.  I once thought I ruined my Bosch drill because it sounded exactly the same.  Then I found that the speed switch wasn't all the way to one side which caused it to sound like that.  Something to check just in case.


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## fire_man (Sep 4, 2013)

Thanks for the idea, Sprinter. I tried but still marble sounding gears. It almost seems like soot got inside the motor bearings.

Oh well lesson learned.


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## Sprinter (Sep 4, 2013)

fire_man said:


> Oh well lesson learned


Well, maybe it will help someone else anyway.  Thanks for warning us.  Is it new enough to be returned?  Maybe it was just coincidental.


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## fire_man (Sep 4, 2013)

Too old to return, way too new to be broken. 

I'm thinking a cloud of soot got into the motor, because with increased use the awful sound is getting better, broken gears would improve.

Next time I will use the vacuum method, but with my luck I'll fry the vacuum motor.


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## Treacherous (Sep 4, 2013)

I just use this cheap HF 18v drill I got for $35 on sale.


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## BrotherBart (Sep 4, 2013)

I am probably the only Sooteater naysayer. The drill started smoking halfway up the 35 foot liner. And in the 21 footer I hated hearing the joints in that flopping rod beat the crap of the liner.

I went back to the rope and brush.


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## Treacherous (Sep 4, 2013)

I imagine in a liner it would probably sound a little dicey.  Nothing disconcerting sounding in my 21 ft ICC run though.  I've only been concerned about getting caught up in the cap somehow.  This has never happened and it beats any crud out of there nicely.  I wanted to make sure I used a clutched drill this year though.  I spun & broke a pole off last year.  They did cover under warranty though.  It was my fault.  A nice gesture from Gardus though,


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## clemsonfor (Sep 4, 2013)

I fried my 8 yr old corded drill that already had like an 1/8 to 1/4 play in the shaft.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 4, 2013)

No big deal has been on last leg for years.


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## Ashful (Sep 4, 2013)

BrotherBart said:


> I went back to the rope and brush.


Describe, please.  I imagine going up a ladder to drop the rope down the pipe, and then drawing the brush down from below? Might not be so bad on my lower chimney, but still frightening for mid-season on the big chimney.


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## BrotherBart (Sep 4, 2013)

Yeah I set up both pipes to do it that way. I go up and open the megabucks caps and drop both ropes and push the brushes into the pipes. Close the caps and go down and pull the brushes through. No it isn't a squeaky clean cleaning but squat is left and it ain't gonna play in a chimney fire.


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## Treacherous (Sep 4, 2013)

If my roof wasn't 12/12 and I liked heights more I would clean from top.  My new raised metal seam is even slipperier than old metal roof so even further from it happening.  I am thankful the SootEater works so well for my setup.


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## HDRock (Sep 4, 2013)

Treacherous said:


> If my roof wasn't 12/12 and I liked heights more I would clean from top.  My new raised metal seam is even slipperier than old metal roof so even further from it happening.  I am thankful the SootEater works so well for my setup.


I don't know how U could even stay on a 12/12 roof for more than 5 secs without sliding off .
Maybe gulf shoes (no I wouldn't),or harness n rope


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## Ashful (Sep 4, 2013)

Bart, how do you like big ladders?  Planning any trips north, say... January?

Unfortunately, the way it's currently set up, I'd have to pull the flagstone on the big chimney to remove the squirrel cage.  The chimney guy does this each spring, when he does his top-down cleaning.




No big deal, until you consider where you're working from (I don't think I need to re-post THAT picture ).


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## Treacherous (Sep 4, 2013)

Roofers tied their harness ropes off to my opposing fir trees when they replaced roof a couple months back.  I have gotten up there with a long ladder in the past but I don't like it.


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## Sprinter (Sep 4, 2013)

BrotherBart said:


> Yeah I set up both pipes to do it that way. I go up and open the megabucks caps and drop both ropes and push the brushes into the pipes. Close the caps and go down and pull the brushes through. No it isn't a squeaky clean cleaning but squat is left and it ain't gonna play in a chimney fire.


What I like best about the sooteater is that I can leave the door closed and just let the stuff drop into the firebox without getting soot in the room.  I'm sure the brush cleans just about as well, though.  I don't think the sooteater would be very good with difficult creosote anyway.


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## BrotherBart (Sep 4, 2013)

Joful said:


> Bart, how do you like big ladders?  Planning any trips north, say... January?
> 
> Unfortunately, the way it's currently set up, I'd have to pull the flagstone on the big chimney to remove the squirrel cage.  The chimney guy does this each spring, when he does his top-down cleaning.
> 
> ...



I hear ya. The Realtor said I was the only person she ever had seen show up with a ladder and go up on the roof and head for the chimney.  I just had the place re-roofed and when asked why I didn't do metal my response was "I don't want to slide sixteen feet getting ready to fall two stories."


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## Mr A (Sep 5, 2013)

I got it easy with a one story roof at 5/12.  And it doesn't snow here. I have asphalt shingles, so when its icy, it's still not slippery. I just cleaned my one year seasoned flue with the sooteater, and I have POUNDS of soot! WOW! That seasoned wood I thought was good, not so much. Stuck my neck in as far as I could, and it does look like it did a good job. I put a "fine filter bag" in the shop-vac, and wrapped the exhaust area with a wet towel. Towel stayed clean, so, unnecessary, no hose to outside. I  just covered the stove opening with the included plastic sheeting, just draped, stuffed it into the sides, and worked the rods in. I did 4 ' rod back and forth, first ,to get it started. I set my 18V dewalt cordless at 10 clutch. I have a oval flue, felt resistance through the damper,smoke shelf bend.I had a rod break in the middle, just twisted in half. Fortunately I was able to recover, didn't need the 5th rod. Definitely need a clutch setting on the drill used, I started at 17, finished at 10, so start low. Just picked up all the tools, I have pretty pictures of soot for you all tomorrow. I forgot to cover the secondary air. I covered half way through the job, got a lot more soot and not much on the cover. I got 3-4 piles like this. Feels like 5-10 pounds in the shop vac.


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## DanCorcoran (Sep 7, 2013)

BrotherBart said:


> I am probably the only Sooteater naysayer. The drill started smoking halfway up the 35 foot liner. And in the 21 footer I hated hearing the joints in that flopping rod beat the crap of the liner.
> 
> I went back to the rope and brush.




I used my cheapo HF 18v cordless and it worked fine.  My chimney is a straight shot up and only 18'.  I inserted all the rods before I started spinning it and cleaned from the top down.  Not sure which of those factors contributed to the survival of the drill, but I'd guess probably the chimney height, since that would greatly affect the friction and therefore the strain on the motor.


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## begreen (Sep 7, 2013)

Our sooteater arrived Thursday. Looks like I will be doing a run with it next weekend.


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## Treacherous (Sep 7, 2013)

Ar


DanCorcoran said:


> I used my cheapo HF 18v cordless and it worked fine.  My chimney is a straight shot up and only 18'.  I inserted all the rods before I started spinning it and cleaned from the top down.  Not sure which of those factors contributed to the survival of the drill, but I'd guess probably the chimney height, since that would greatly affect the friction and therefore the strain on the motor.



Are you using the same model drill I posted pic of earlier?  I find mine has been surprisingly durable.  I've thrown a lot at it and not broken it yet.


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## DanCorcoran (Sep 7, 2013)

No, mine's blue.  It's at the cabin, so I can't check the model number.  They change models every few months it seems, but they're probably all pretty much the same.  The one I have here at home is orange...


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## Treacherous (Sep 7, 2013)

begreen said:


> Our sooteater arrived Thursday. Looks like I will be doing a run with it next weekend.



I am really curious to hear what you think.  Keep us posted.

Thanks!


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## Bluerubi (Sep 30, 2013)

For anyone considering this system I just ordered a couple from Smarthome for a little over $80 with free shipping.  Seems like the lowest price I've seen anywhere, so might be worth checking out.  Pricing is strange though, where it is far cheaper to order an extra full kit than the extension rods, so keep that in mind if your chimney is greater than the 18' a single kit will do.

http://www.smarthome.com/92311/Sooteater-RCH205-Rotary-Chimney-Cleaning-System/p.aspx


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## begreen (Sep 30, 2013)

Treacherous said:


> I am really curious to hear what you think.  Keep us posted.
> 
> Thanks!



The clean out went very smoothly. I dropped the baffle on the T6 which gave me a clear shot up the flue. Although I was a little concerned about the offset I have coming off the stove, the brush head went through it with ease and so did the rods. I'm glad I bought an extra pair. They were needed to reach the cap. I ran the sooteater using an 18v Makita 1/2" drill. No big deal at all for this drill. I ran it up and down the pipe many times but all I got was about a cup of sote. I used the trivets on the T6 top to hold the plastic sheet and cut a 9" slit into it to poke the rods through. That worked really well. There was no mess at all. I had a damp rag handy to wipe down the rods as I pulled them out. All in all it was a much neater and easier process than I thought it would be. 

PS: The one mistake I made was to not stuff a rag in the secondary manifold pipe feeding the baffle so a bit of sote went down the tube. Turns out that it was no big deal. If you pull the ash pan you will see that the tube ends right at the firebox bottom. I could see a little mound of sote at the back of the ashpan housing and just vacuumed that up.


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