# Bigger saws!!!



## Yogi (Sep 28, 2006)

WOW I had no idea that there were so many other saws out there besides the wild thing I am wondering now if something larger might do me some good. I have several larger trees around me, maybe 48" across. Any ideas, or sugestions? I always thought the wild thing was more than enough, and there was nothing bigger, or needed to be, but this site has opened my eyes to newer things Any thoughts guys?


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## MuckSavage (Sep 28, 2006)

Would you want one for parts?


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## Jags (Sep 28, 2006)

*Yogi, which ever saw works for you is the best saw you can own*.  Please keep safety in mind at all times.  Most of these guys that are using these big "Pro" series saws are rightfully... "Pros" and have been doing it for a loooong time.  Its a little like drag racing.  If you are interested in racing, you probably are not gonna go to John Force's house and ask to drive his 4.5 sec dragster.  (well ya might, but probably won't get very far.....at least I didn't).

Your choice of saws depends an awful lot on YOU.  If you are bucking 3 or 4 cords for personal use or are you in the business and go thru a few HUNDRED or THOUSAND cords per yer.  This will make a huge difference in the choice of saw you want to use.

Tons of info on this web site, sit back, enjoy, learn from these guys (cuz its a great bunch of guys) and once again.   Welcome to the forum. :cheese:


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## Yogi (Sep 28, 2006)

MuckSavage said:
			
		

> Would you want one for parts?




Parts? What do I need the parts for without the whole saw?


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## MuckSavage (Sep 28, 2006)

Okay....I'll sed ya the whole saw!


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## Yogi (Sep 28, 2006)

Wowzer Jags, I looked at some of the saws from the websites on the thing, neat saws! I found out I have a Stihl dealer close by!! I went and looked at them this moring. I FELL IN LOVE WITH THE STIHL MS 441 THAT SAW SEEMED COOL!! The dealertold me I could probably run a 36" bar on it if I really wanted to! That saw was masive! Made my wild thing look like a toy!! I really want one, and I can run a 16" bar on i too! WOW was that neat to see I had no idea all of this stuff was out there!! I didn't know you could buy a 3 foot long bar
Anyway, what do you guys think, would this be a good saw for me to get?


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## bobo (Sep 28, 2006)

Yogi first thing is safety before you get a bigger saw. Make sure you get proper training on how to use the saw. Ask dealer about personal protection equipment and how to use it. When you go to the dealer ask him what saw or saws will serve your purpose. If you feel that the dealer will take care of you after your  purchase then go ahead . Make sure you ask lots of question's. 

Good luck 
bobo


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## Corie (Sep 28, 2006)

no.

A 36" bar? That's obscenely long and dangerous for someone to use who isn't experienced enough.

If I was you, I'd look at a Stihl 260, 270 or 290 and leave the monsters to the pros.


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## Roospike (Sep 28, 2006)

The first safty issue is the chainsaw. an even bigger "I see" is that he is looking to cut down 48" wide trees! 





			
				Yogi said:
			
		

> I have several larger trees around me, maybe 48" across. Any ideas, or sugestions?


 Yogi , you also need to learn how to fell a tree the correct way. 48" across X the height is a lot of mass! *A lot of mass !* I have fell many trees this big but was only after years of practice and a lot on knowledge.


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## Jags (Sep 28, 2006)

I have to agree with Corie and Rspike. I don't think this is the saw for you. I don't think you will find anyone but the pro's (and only the pro's that really NEED one) has that kinda equipment. Bigger is not always better. Choose a saw that meets your needs.  Corie gave a list of real good choices and I would have to double ditto the MS290.  But even the 290 is a very powerful saw , and all power equipment deserves respect.  48" trees are nothin' to be "practicing" on and should only be attempted by very experienced people.  Please don't view this as a "yes mom" rant, just trying to "help a brother out".

And remember folks ALWAYS remember you personal safety gear.


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## suematteva (Sep 28, 2006)

Am backing up everything said above...

Take the advice to heart it is experience talking.


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## Yogi (Sep 28, 2006)

Mucksavage: hat kind of saws are you talking about? I might need something larger latter 

bobo, you mean like saftey glasses? I wear saftey glasse and leather boot with leather gloves when I am cutting, do I need more? Is there more?

Why could I not start ut with a saw like that with the smaller bar, then put on a larger one latter? I mainly cut up fallen trees, but have cut a few standing trees, like 16-18" across. Are the bigger trees really that much more dangerous? I really don't see how they could be? A tree will fall hereever the weight is leaning, no different than the small ones will right? as long as there is nothing in the way what can I hurt? What am I missing here?
Why do you say the ms 441 is a "pro" saw and not to get one?
Sorry for all the questions, but I guess I am missing something, or a lot of things here?


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## suematteva (Sep 28, 2006)

Yogi,

Logging is usually the first or second most dangerous profession in the world.

I know guys (am sure others on this forum do also) who have worked in the woods for thirty years and something happens to them whether it be a chainsaw cut or a tree gets away from them or a limb snaps back and pushes the saw into them..Guys with 30 years experience....it can happen to anybody...about a month ago I was at the Husky dealer and heard of 30 year pro who cut into his thigh limbing a down tree.

Google chainsaw chaps and you will see a first step in protective equipment. A chainsaw chain spinning at 10,000 + rpm will go through a leather boot like a hot knife through butter.

The words above and the advice of others is great advice.  I am sure that you can find enough info on the web to get a good starter, however, there is absolutely no substitute for in the field experience..

When I first learned I was able to have someone walk me through everything!  stood close to me and explained the steps..

Good Luck.  Do not want to sound like a nagging hen, but pulling guys off the hill is not fun..

Maybe you can pm Eric Johnson, he might have some good training materials on working in the woods or can point you in the right direction.


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## ourhouse (Sep 29, 2006)

Yogi
 Vintage 181 and others above are right one the money. You need to know you'r limitations and skill level. Cutting down a 48" tree there is a lot that can go wrong. Get good training and allways wear you'r PPE. There is a big diffrence from that Wild thing to A MS441 Sthil.


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## Yogi (Sep 29, 2006)

Well, I looked up chaps, they look pretty nice I must say! May have to pick up a set!I think I saw something about a Stihl ms 406 I thought, would that be better for me? I looked up the ms 250 and 290 and they really don't allow to much flexebility with bar sizes and I really like the idea of one saw for all my needs! Wouldn't I be better off buying a 406 to start with?


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## Roospike (Sep 29, 2006)

Yogi , Along with the chaps get your a logging helmet with face shield and ear muffs.  here is a link to "help" its a good staring point. http://www.mytreelessons.com/ChainSaw.htm


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## Yogi (Sep 29, 2006)

Roospike said:
			
		

> Yogi , Along with the chaps get your a logging helmet with face shield and ear muffs.  here is a link to "help" its a good staring point. http://www.mytreelessons.com/ChainSaw.htm




Thank you Roo, that was good reading, I stil don't understand why it is so much more dangerous to cut down a bigger tree yet? Why is that so dangerous? I looked at the face sheild/helmet thing, how do you see out of that thing? How can that be safe? Ear muffs, are those bigger saws really that much louder?


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## Roospike (Sep 29, 2006)

A small tree that is 2,000 lbs standing stright up in the air 30' up VS a 20,000 lbs tree standing stright up in the air 50' high +.......... You dont see the danger difference ? *#1 when cutting you HAVE to know how to contol the fall of the tree by how you cut it.*and even at that there no 100% guarantee that tree will fall the direction you aim it. are you going to leave a hinge in the tree? how thick of hinge ? maybe just cut it all the way through .......... no hinge = lack of control and when that baby hits the ground the bottom of the trunk could kick back at you. I dont think you going to win against a tree coming back on a rebound bounce. Spring pole? You need to decide what kind of face cut your going to put in the tree ....... ware your back cut is going to be and how deep.Is the tree have a lean? Maybe you need to do a bore cut /////// Is it going to barber chair on you? Any idea how many wedges your going to need for a 48" wide tree to control the fall ? Do you have any widow makers ? Did you check ? Is the trunk hollow ? how is the weight of the tree for balance? wind speed ....... how is it ? any gusts ? how tall is the tree ? do you know where the top is going to land ? anybody around .... cars trucks people dogs ...... ? If you dont know the answers to these questions or what the questions even mean then i would stay away from a 48" wide tree. Do all the research you can and if you know somebody that cuts trees with a lot of experience ...........tag along. Control felling the small trees first before you even think about felling a large tree.


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## bobo (Sep 29, 2006)

When he gets better he will be able to drop it on a beer can. Might take 40 years to master,but he will get it some day.


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## Yogi (Sep 29, 2006)

bobo said:
			
		

> When he gets better he will be able to drop it on a beer can. Might take 40 years to master,but he will get it some day.



What is that supposed to mean? Am I not capable of learning? Am I too stupid to figure out some geometry? Man, what a jerk!!


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## Yogi (Sep 29, 2006)

Roospike said:
			
		

> A small tree that is 2,000 lbs standing stright up in the air 30' up VS a 20,000 lbs tree standing stright up in the air 50' high +.......... You dont see the danger difference ? *#1 when cutting you HAVE to know how to contol the fall of the tree buy how you cut it.*and even at that there no 100% guarantee that tree will fall the direction you aim it. are you going to leave a hinge in the tree? how think of hinge ? maybe just cut it all the way through .......... no hinge = lack of control and when that baby hits the ground the bottom of the trunk could kick back at you. I dont think you going to win against a tree coming back on a rebound bounce. You need to deside what kind of face cut your going to put in the tree ....... ware your back cut is going to be and how deep. Any idea how many wedges your going to need for a 48" wide tree to control the fall ? Do you have any wido makers ? Did you check ? Is the trunk hollow ? how is the weight of the tree for balance? wind speed ....... how is it ? any gusts ? how tall is the tree ? do you know where the top is going to land ? anybody around .... cars trucks people dogs ...... ? If you dont know the answers to these questions or what the questions even mean then i would stay away from a 48" wide tree. Do all the research you can and if you know somebody that cuts trees with a lot of experience ...........tag along. Control felling the small trees first before you even think about felling a large tree.



Yes, I get the 45's law, I have a clue where it's going to go! I am trying to learn here, I have read about the humbolt in magazines would this work for the larger trees I am looking at? Why can I not make a face cut aand have soemone pull it with a tractor while I do the back cut? I mean, if the lean is one way and I pull that way, it can't help but go that way, right?


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## Roospike (Sep 29, 2006)

Yogi said:
			
		

> Roospike said:
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> 
> ...


 Lean? watch the leaners ......... ever seen a barber chair ? if its leaning you will want to look at doing a bore cut.


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## bobo (Sep 29, 2006)

Yogi stick to clearing brush. That is something you and your wildthing can handle.


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## Roospike (Sep 29, 2006)

If you know exactly what i'm talking about in my post then you'll be on your way. I would still start with the smaller trees at first. Dont forget all your P.P.E. 





> A small tree that is 2,000 lbs standing stright up in the air 30’ up VS a 20,000 lbs tree standing stright up in the air 50’ high +.......... You dont see the danger difference ? #1 when cutting you HAVE to know how to contol the fall of the tree by how you cut it.and even at that there no 100% guarantee that tree will fall the direction you aim it. are you going to leave a hinge in the tree? how think of hinge ? maybe just cut it all the way through .......... no hinge = lack of control and when that baby hits the ground the bottom of the trunk could kick back at you. I dont think you going to win against a tree coming back on a rebound bounce. Spring pole? You need to decide what kind of face cut your going to put in the tree ....... ware your back cut is going to be and how deep.Is the tree have a lean? Maybe you need to do a bore cut /////// Is it goping to barber chain on you? Any idea how many wedges your going to need for a 48” wide tree to control the fall ? Do you have any widow makers ? Did you check ? Is the trunk hollow ? how is the weight of the tree for balance? wind speed ....... how is it ? any gusts ? how tall is the tree ? do you know where the top is going to land ? anybody around .... cars trucks people dogs ...... ? If you dont know the answers to these questions or what the questions even mean then i would stay away from a 48” wide tree. Do all the research you can and if you know somebody that cuts trees with a lot of experience ...........tag along. Control felling the small trees first before you even think about felling a large tree.


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## Yogi (Sep 29, 2006)

Uh yeah, I have had a lot of haircuts? What is with you guys and haircuts on here? What does this have to do with cutting down trees? Bore cut? Do I have to buy an auger too?


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## Yogi (Sep 29, 2006)

bobo said:
			
		

> Yogi stick to clearing brush. That is something you and your wildthing can handle.




What exactly does that mean? A person comes here trying to learn and gets treated like this? WOW


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## Roospike (Sep 29, 2006)

Yogi said:
			
		

> Uh yeah, I have had a lot of haircuts? What is with you guys and haircuts on here? What does this have to do with cutting down trees? Bore cut? Do I have to buy an auger too?


Barber chair has nothing to do with a hair cut but it *  can kill you.* as for a bore cut your chainsaw will do fine as long as you know how to do your entry and how to control it. Make sure you leave a good amount of strap before you pop it off for the final fall.


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## bobo (Sep 29, 2006)

Yogi said:
			
		

> Uh yeah, I have had a lot of haircuts? What is with you guys and haircuts on here? What does this have to do with cutting down trees? Bore cut? Do I have to buy an auger too?




Stick to the brush man.


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## Yogi (Sep 29, 2006)

bobo said:
			
		

> Yogi said:
> 
> 
> 
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What do you mean by this? I am not understanding what you are reffering to? Is this meant as an inult?


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## bobo (Sep 29, 2006)

Watch a pro and learn so you dont get hurt. Be a good groundie first . Just pay close attention to detail.So much can and will go wrong. That is what I mean by stick to the brush. As you advance you will increase your capability and awareness. Then you will be ready for the bigger tree's.


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## Yogi (Sep 29, 2006)

bobo said:
			
		

> Watch a pro and learn so you dont get hurt. Be a good groundie first . Just pay close attention to detail.So much can and will go wrong. That is what I mean by stick to the brush. As you advance you will increase your capability and awareness. Then you will be ready for the bigger tree's.



I kind of get what you are saying, what is a "groundie"? Maybe I can find a tree service to work for for a week and learn all of this from them! Coud I come work fo you bobo? I would do it for free just for the education, I think a week and I should have it down, don't you?


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## begreen (Sep 29, 2006)

Yogi, 1 in 1000 loggers have a fatality accident. It is one of the most dangerous occupations in the US. We just lost a pro early this month due to a fluke accident cutting down a residential tree. Early this year a local logger barely survived a 50 ft fall from a tree. He lived with a fused disc, but is a much more sober cutter now. 

Sh*t happens. Trees can have anomalies and weaknesses in the wood that cause them to fracture unexpectedly and in all the wrong places. There is tremendous weight in a big limb of a big tree, that can have a lot of leverage towards an unknown, unseen stress fracture. Out here the crotches of soft maples can have all sorts of embedded crap in their crotches. It may be spike or fence nails or rocks dropped by crows and gulls, but they're in there. 

So the advice you are being given is to start out small and be patient. Learn the ropes, literally and take small steps here. There is actually a lot of wisdom, knowledge, common sense and safety involved in felling a tree. When it comes to big trees it evolves into an artform. Me, I leave it to the pros and work on the stuff on the ground after they're done.


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## DonCT (Sep 29, 2006)

I second BG's post. No one is saying you're incappable of learning. They're asking that you take it slow and steady. We just want you to be safe!!


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## ourhouse (Sep 29, 2006)

Yogi don't think you'r going to learn everything from a tree service in a week or two. It takes years to learn how fell trees and buck trees without getting hurt or KILLED. There are many diffrent factors you have to look at.  Like theType of tree you are cutting, wind,is the tree sound,doesit have any rot at the base, is the tree leaning , are there more limbs onone side than the other. And thoes are only about half the questions you need to look at when cutting down trees. In my bis the top guys an I think it takes about 10 years in the field every day  to handle almost any tree. But there are still days when some of us have to step back take a second look and CALL for some HELP. 

 Don't rush into anything. Take you'r time get good training, wear you'r PPE all the time and becarefull.
 JOHN


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## Yogi (Sep 30, 2006)

I really can't belive it would take that ong to learn most of what you need to know I don't know what these trees are, they have large leaves, with bark that comes off in big chunks with a stringey substance behind the bark, it is real stringy when you slipt it and it is almost like it is snowing in the summertime. Does that help any with the tree type?
 I went back to the dealertoday, I still like the ms 441, and the dealerthought it would be a good size saw for me to work, and give me room to move up later on without it being too large of a saw, he really didn't think the ms 250 or ms 290 wouldn't be enough saw for me? Now reading what you are saying, and what the dealer is saying, it's quit different to me! I am getting very confused here, who do I belive, and why?


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## ChrisN (Sep 30, 2006)

Okay, I read through all the entries on this thread, and it's apparent to me that Yogi is goofing on us.   %-P


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## bobo (Sep 30, 2006)

Look's to me like a guy with out a clue. Must have bought a saw at walmart and had no instruction.


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## MountainStoveGuy (Sep 30, 2006)

Point here is, if yogi is goofing us or not,  we need to be nice,  Its not to hard. But Yogi, there is some serious darwinism going on here. You have to be carefull. Listen to these people, even the rude ones. This is a skill that takes time. It only takes one goof to be crushed by a tree. Bobo, no more stabs at yogi, you have a very antagonistic tone. Yogi, for gods sake, there are professionals here commenting on your thread, listen to them. Dont run out with a new saw and start hacking trees. Respect the saw, respect the tree, keep a exit zone clear of all debris, pay very very close attention to your back cut and watch it open up, dont make your notch so deep that it will make the tree unstable, wear a helment and face shield. And be carefull. Mostly we are here trying to keep you from getting hurt. You sound inexperenced, and big trees are not for newbies. Trees kill people, chain saws kill people. Watch your tip and keep your chain sharp. You came here looking for information. Take the advice given. Pros dont get 400-600 bucks for droping a tree for a skill they researched on the internet and bought a pro saw. They call them "pro's" for a reason.

My first saw was a husky 372 xp with a slightly larger displacement then the MS441, so its not out of the question for you to buy this, but when i bought mine, i had no visions that because i bought a pro saw that made me a pro. It scared me then, it scares me now, these saws have as much horsepower as a go cart. There heavier, and you fatigue faster, opening up the chance for accidents. there broad tip will take you to the bank if you catch it on something. A saw of this size WILL kill you if your not carefull, not to mention the tree. I didnt need a saw that big, but im a guy who always thinks more is better, thats not always the case, expecially in chain saws.


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## begreen (Sep 30, 2006)

Yogi said:
			
		

> I went back to the dealertoday, I still like the ms 441, and the dealerthought it would be a good size saw for me to work, and give me room to move up later on without it being too large of a saw, he really didn't think the ms 250 or ms 290 wouldn't be enough saw for me?



Yogi, exactly what is your experience with chain saws? How many years have you been cutting trees? Why are you making the claim that the lime green machine is the king of saws? Pride or experience? Where is this coming from?

> Now reading what you are saying, and what the dealer is saying, it's quit different to me! I am getting very confused here, who do I belive, and why?

And how much more is the MS441? And how much more does the dealer make? 2+2=?


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## Yogi (Sep 30, 2006)

I do apreciate everyones concern, and I do respect where you are all coming from, even bobo makes some good points. He obviously has a lot more experiance than I, just has a hard time conveying it, which can be hard to do on these forums.
I have been running wild things for about 4 years now and have cut down a lot of trees with them with no problems yet. From litening to you it seems I must have figured it out quick, or gotten really lucky! The wild thing was the largest saw I was aware of until finding this site, if my signature is offensive I will gladly remove it for you, sorry. I saw the 372 on the eb, but no local dealers, and I think that is a good idea for me to have one for parts and education. I just really want to not to have to upgrade in the future, like I said before, one saw for everything I may need, now and latter.
I still can't see how not being able to see with the helmet/face shield is safer, but I will take you're word or it.
 The dealertold me ms 250 with a 16" bar ws around $280 and another $50 or so for the quick adjust chain tensioner. The ms 441 with an 18" was around $750, he also told me he made about the same money on both saws, I don't know if that is true or not, but that is what he told me.


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## Sandor (Sep 30, 2006)

chrisN said:
			
		

> Okay, I read through all the entries on this thread, and it's apparent to me that Yogi is goofing on us.   %-P



Ya think? Won't waste my time typing a reply.


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## BikeMedic2709 (Sep 30, 2006)

I'm with ChrisN. 
But, I will give Yogi the benifit of the doubt. 
Yogi, the helmets/hard hats that are spoke of here are logging specific. The helmet has a screened front shield. It doesn't hamper vision to teh extent of being dangerous. It is like looking through a screened door or window. The ear protection that is mounted directly on the side (but can be removed).  ANY saw produces high noise volume that can damage hearing. Especialy to the operator. The Wild Thing by Poulan is a loud saw. You should be using hearing protection. Your owners manual (that came with the Wild Thing) will tell you the information that is being shared here. You NEED to read this information, if you haven't. Furthermore, logic would indicate that a larger tree indicates a higher degree of danger while cutting it down. If, in fact, you are legitimate, let me encourage you to seek out as much information on the felling of trees and the logging industry in specific. It is an INCREDIBLY dangerous career. Something you cannot learn in a week, month or even a year. The ratio of people that use chainsaw to the people that have injured by a chainsaw is very high. Chainsaws in general have a nature to "Kick-Back" and could potientially cut the operator. You have seen what it can do to hard wood, you should see what it will do to flesh. Hopefully, you never will. Statistics don't lie. Essentially, if you use a chainsaw you will be injured by a chainsaw. Hopefully it will be something as simple as a cut finger while sharpening or changing the chain. But most importantly I hope that you are one of the few people that will not be injured by a chainsaw. What everyone is telling you is that using a chainsaw IS ULTRA-DANGEROUS! We don't want you to get hurt. 
With all due respect; from the content of your posts, it is hard for some here to believe your sincerity. I am sure that some feel that their intelligence is being insulted. With that said, I will say now that if I offended you in any way. I am sorry. Please, be safe.
Sincerely,
Mike

By the way. I believe the wood you are cutting is Cottonwood.


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## Yogi (Sep 30, 2006)

I will have to look at those helmets a little loser next time I am in at the dealer. I just looks from a distance that it would be hard to see out of one. My wife has been getting on me about the hearing protection, she thinks I am going deaf (I will let her continue to belive that) I have read the manual and hve experiance mild kickback before, but have never had the chainbrake engage as discussed in the manual. They really coverd the saftey stuff, over and over. I just figured it was to cover them from lawsuits, I know they are dangerous, look at all the acidents with table and band saws, and they are not being carried around! I guess I will have to step back a little more, my dealer did also point out an ms 361, might that be a little better for me? It didn't seem much larger than the wild thing, if I remeber right, it will run a 16" to a 24" bar?
I have a pretty thick skin, I am not taking any offense, they can belive, and post whatever they want, thats why it's America.


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## BikeMedic2709 (Sep 30, 2006)

It would be a great idea if you would check out the safety equipment at your local dealer. Especially the chaps, and hardhat. I ALWAYS wear hearing protection. I keep several pair of ear plugs in my saw cases, and have the earmuff style. Try to get plugs/muffs with a rating of at least 25. Some think it is not macho to wear protection (i.e. I am tougher than that) and that is just foolish. I lost hearing in my right ear and consequently do everything to protect what I have left!


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## Yogi (Sep 30, 2006)

Thanks for the tip, I will have to get some of these things, I did a search fo the chaps, so many choices Wow, lots to choose from!! I may just get a set from the Stihl dealer, if I ever figure out what saw I need! Sorry to hear that you lost you're hearing, that sucks I may have to go talk to another dealer Monday and see if there is another opinion, and confuse myself even more than I am Glad there isn't more saw choices around here, never figure it out then


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## BikeMedic2709 (Sep 30, 2006)

I am sure that there are other saws being sold in your area. Just look in the yellow pages. Most lawnmower type shops will carry different saws. There are many to chose from. I can only speak for what I have used. (Jonsered, Husqvarna & HomeLite) But there are others here that can be more than helpful. Maybe ask them what they prefer. 
BTW, if you think the Wild Thing is a nice saw, wait till you try some of the others.


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## Yogi (Sep 30, 2006)

Yeah, I am really excited to run something bigger, I never thought that I could own anything bigger than what I have, the ms 441 was heavy, but man, I can only dream of what it would be like to run that beast! WOW would that be cool I can just see those big trees hitting the ground and me cutting them up!
Cottonwood, thanks for that as well, I really like burning it, seems to burn hot and long! And with a bigger saw I cut more and burn even more than I have been Just need to find what is right for me No, there are no other dealers in my area, just two Stihl dealers. One lawn dealer sells Shiawies or something like that, but they seem weired and plasticy. So I am leary of them!


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## NWfuel (Sep 30, 2006)

Yogi, How long does it take for your Cottonwood to season so you can burn it? What state are you in?
Thomas


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## Yogi (Sep 30, 2006)

I am in north western Oklahoma, I don't know, I just cut ti down an burn it a few months latter, never really timed it, do I need to?


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## NWfuel (Sep 30, 2006)

Iim thinking cottonwood grows in very wet conditions. It takes 2 years to dry cottonwood for burning in the northwest. Could your wood be a different species? But then again what does it matter!
Thomas


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## Yogi (Sep 30, 2006)

I did not know all of that I just burn it becuase there is so much of it around me. I didn't know I need to "season" anything? Two years? WOW, that is a long time to dry out It's amazing I have been doing all this wrong for so long


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## elkimmeg (Oct 1, 2006)

ok guys take a deep breath presonal attacks are uncalled for on hearth.com 
bobo if you are a professional tree cutter or timber man, than act professional.
yogi if you can not accept good advice, then go ahead and cut that 4' tree. If all works out for you you can brag about your experience. If not please tell us where we can read the obits in your area. Yogi will not be here long to argue with anyone. I have cleared over 10 miles of roads better than 200 house lots, would I tackle a 4' dia tree no way. What I would do is dig around the stump with my 235 cat excavator and lay that sucker down, then cut it up.  If you have a spare $285,000 laying around for the 235 cat,  then go at it. Almost are posters here were trying to tell you this is not a job for a novice.  some in a kinder way than others. You also raised their ira when you think one week you can learn a profession it took them years to saftely preform.

Yogi sit back monitor the forums learn and ask questions  If you are trying to be a smart ass and bait forum menbers, then take you act elsewhere.  These forums are about educating and helping fellow alternative fuel users. We can help you and it turn you can help others such as your experiences with centry stoves.

 To answer other questions most hard wood exposed to sun and air takes at least 6 months to season enough for burning. Oak and thicker rounds take up till a year,  exposed to air sun and stacked off the ground.  I have 3 year's supply now  the last splits stacked yesterday will not be used this season or next but the season after next


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## Yogi (Oct 2, 2006)

Sorry guys, was out of town today and had to get to bed early last night, haven't had much time to be on. I mean no disrepect, and am willing to learn, just not used to all of this, I didn't think it would be that hard to learn to deal with the bigger trees after doing the smaller ones like I have been. It sounds like I have much to learn, and read! I do not have access to any heavy equipment, I am asuming that is wat you are reffering to, like that. I can on occasion use a freinds Ford tractor if need be, but that is at his discetion, and when he is available to use it, he doesn't trust me yet either! Sorry, I ust didn't think there was that much to it, I read the my tree lesons site and get the different pie cuts, don't really understand the deal with thehumbolt, but shouldn't ever need to use it. The dutchman is interesting to say least, I see how it works, and why it is scarry, but how can that little cut into the pie cause so much force to kick back at you? Still hearing about barberchair,what is it really and why is it so bad?
Is this a better way to go? Thank you.


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## Eric Johnson (Oct 2, 2006)

A bigger saw is not necessarily a better saw. It depends on the application. With modern chain technology, you can get by with a lot less horsepower and probably a shorter bar than you might think.

Personally, I wouldn't consider anything other than a Stihl, Husqvarna or a Jonsereds, and I'd buy it from a servicing dealer.

The helmet will protect your head from getting bashed in or deeply gashed if a limb should fall and hit you on the head. A big limb will drive your head right into your chest cavity, but some protection is a lot better than none. At least the helmet will help prevent stitches and/or a possible concussion. If you need to inquire about the need for ear and eye protection, then you probably shouldn't be using a chain saw in the first place. In addition, kevlar chaps and steel-toed work boots (at minimum) are essential for anyone using any chain saw any time.

Most beginning chain saw operators survive mostly on luck. Read the saw manual and you'll get a good idea of where you should be focusing your attention. Like my daddy always said, with woodcutting, the only problem with on-the-job training is that sometimes they give the final exam on the first day.

Finally, if the Humbolt is your idea of a notch and you have no idea what bore cutting or a barberchair is, then you need to do more research. Google "open-face felling" for openers.

Here's a link:

http://www.forestapps.com/tips/notch/notch.htm

More good info:

http://www.forestapps.com/tips/tips.htm


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## suematteva (Oct 3, 2006)

www.gameoflogging.com/training 


In the October issue of Forest Products equipment is an article about the Chain saw safety Plan.  Author is Wendy Komancheck.  The majority of the article is about the chain saw safety plan  Program at Paul Smiths College...The professor has been teaching the course since the 70's..

36,000 people are treated each year in Emergency departments due to chainsaws..Higher when you include natural disasterss like Katrina.


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## DavidV (Oct 4, 2006)

I've had my poulan 14 inch for 3 years.  Have run a couple stihls in that time as well.  I've had a few "oh sh#t" moments  I've topped a few trees and had the wind come up on a totally calm day and send me scrambling for my life around a tree on my saftey rope, saw dangling below me.  I've dropped a large sweet gum and had it goe completely the wrong direction...Almost took out a garage.  I've been cutting on a large oak and had a branch that was almost a foot thick fall and graze me.  put brown streak on my shirt.......and probly one in my shorts.  I hired a pro to take out a large tree in my front yard last year. Didn't want to cut my house in half like a cheeze slicer.  As far as pulling it with a tractor.....when I was in high school I piled into a truck to go look at a pickup that had been slung like a child's toy when the tree it was pulling fell the wrong way.  The driver lived.....barely.  I still remember that.  tore the frame apart.  threw the truck 50+ yards from where it was originally.   What went wrong???  they had done that more times that you can imagine......only takes one time.  If you have your heeart set on a monster saw, get it.  But size down the bar and be damned careful.   And leave the 48 inch trees alone.  nobody mentioned the trees splitting apart from their own weigt wen you start to cut them.  I've seen pines do it when I cut them....Know it can happen with hardwoods too.  If that doesn't pucker up your backside, you ain't smart enought to be cutting wood.

Let me just add.  I'm a babe in the woods as far as cutting trees is concerned.  I wouldn't go nowhere near a 48 inch tree unless it was already down...and even then, it can kill you.


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## Yogi (Oct 4, 2006)

Vintage 181 said:
			
		

> www.gameoflogging.com/training
> 
> 
> In the October issue of Forest Products equipment is an article about the Chain saw safety Plan.  Author is Wendy Komancheck.  The majority of the article is about the chain saw safety plan  Program at Paul Smiths College...The professor has been teaching the course since the 70's..
> ...



Thank you for the link, that was good reading!


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## Yogi (Oct 4, 2006)

I was not going to use the humbolt for anything, just asking about it. I have read some of the older posts on here and have learned a good deal from them. I did an internet search and found some other sites that had real good information on them as well. I am learning more all the time it seems!! I am still trying to understand what makes the bigger trees so much more dangerous? Is it the weight or just the size of it? The notches link was great info, never knew I had to cut that deep into the tree!


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## wg_bent (Oct 4, 2006)

Eric Johnson said:
			
		

> A bigger saw is not necessarily a better saw. It depends on the application. With modern chain technology, you can get by with a lot less horsepower and probably a shorter bar than you might think.
> 
> Personally, I wouldn't consider anything other than a Stihl, Husqvarna or a Jonsereds, and I'd buy it from a servicing dealer.
> 
> ...



Reading that website from end to end should be required reading for all who cut their own wood.


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## Eric Johnson (Oct 4, 2006)

That's the state-of-the-art information on using a chainsaw, Warren. It's what the pros do, or try to do at any rate.

The deal with big trees, Yogi, is that everything that can go wrong with a smaller tree can go a lot wronger with a bigger one. That's not to say that cutting the smaller ones isn't dangerous, too, but it's a matter of degree. Kind of like comparing the consequences of being hit by a motorcycle vs a Mack truck; both are going to hurt, but with the truck, probably not for long.


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## MALogger (Oct 5, 2006)

I have been reading this thread for a while and I have to chime in. I don't understand why anyone would want to get a chain saw larger than they need. Bigger saws are more expensive, they are heavier and the chance for severe kickback increases with more power and longer bar lengths. I make a living working in the woods using a chainsaw everyday. I use a Husqvarna 372xp with a 16" bar. Also I use a stihl ms460 with a 20" bar. I have a 24" bar which I rarely use. If you learn how to cut would properly you don't need a long bar.

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/2023?mv_session_id=ir6dRm4o&product_sku=17390

Check out this book, It is very interesting if you are into cutting wood. There is a section on choosing a chainsaw. As stated in the book, if your bar is never to short then it is probably to long. The point I am trying to make is get the smallest, lightest high quality saw you can get by with. You can keep a spare bar and chain that is longer than you normally need.

When dealing with large trees determining lean can be more difficult as well as getting the tree to fall where you want it to. I use wedges to drive the tree over in the direction I want it to go not where it is leaning and if you have cut any trees at all you know they usually are not leaning the way you want them to.

And as Eric said the bigger the tree the more severe the damage to you or property or someone else if it goes the wrong way.
A small tree could cripple you or worse imagine what a 40" inch dbh (diameter) monster could do.

The saw Eric mentioned is a perfect choice for cutting firewood. Husky 346xp. Small lightweight and powerful. A comparable model for stihl fans would be the ms260.

Matcho has no place when it comes to cutting wood with a chainsaw!

Be careful and if you are not sure about something get some help from someone who is sure.

Craig


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## Eric Johnson (Oct 5, 2006)

Hey Craig. What a coincidence. My dad wrote that book and I edited it. They told us it was out of print, but Bailey's must have a few copies stashed away.

I'm really glad you enjoyed it. I still pull it out and read a few chapters now and then. Still go back to Wisconsin every summer and cut pulpwood with the old man, too.


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## BrotherBart (Oct 5, 2006)

Eric Johnson said:
			
		

> Hey Craig. What a coincidence. My dad wrote that book and I edited it. They told us it was out of print, but Bailey's must have a few copies stashed away.
> 
> I'm really glad you enjoyed it. I still pull it out and read a few chapters now and then. Still go back to Wisconsin every summer and cut pulpwood with the old man, too.



Ya know, there just aren't a lot of people that can say "My dad wrote the book on cutting wood.".

Tell him I said hi. It has been a year since you related it but me and my wife are still nodding and laughing about "You want your creosote to end up on your neighbor's car, not in your chimney.".


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## MALogger (Oct 5, 2006)

Hi Eric,

That is an excellent book , I go back and read parts over again all the time. If I'm not out cutting wood I am usually reading about it. I guess I didn't look real close who else was involved in the writing of the book. Your Dad is living my dream. I can't get my wife to move anywhere that I could afford to have my own good size woodlot so for now I just work on other people's. At $275,000 an acre where I live, even if it was fully stocked with Birdseye maple it still wouldn't be worth it. So I will continue working on other peoples wood lots! 

You need to publish the NL more often than once a month, I read the whole thing the day it arrives then spend the next month reading it over and over.

I can relate to your article this month as I mainly do improvement cuts.

Craig


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## Roospike (Oct 5, 2006)

MALogger said:
			
		

> I have been reading this thread for a while and I have to chime in. I don't understand why anyone would want to get a chain saw larger than they need. Bigger saws are more expensive, they are heavier and the chance for severe kickback increases with more power and longer bar lengths. I make a living working in the woods using a chainsaw everyday. I use a Husqvarna 372xp with a 16" bar. Also I use a stihl ms460 with a 20" bar. I have a 24" bar which I rarely use. If you learn how to cut would properly you don't need a long bar.
> 
> http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/2023?mv_session_id=ir6dRm4o&product_sku=17390
> 
> ...


I'm not so sure about a 372xp and a 16" bar and i'll tell ya why. Running a 18" bar on my 346XP and an 18" bar on my 372XP the 372XP is a lot heaver but dont cut any faster in 16" wood. The 372xp turns at 13500 RPM and the 346xp turns at 14700 rpm. Your just haulling extra weight with a 372xp and a 16" bar. Now where the bigger chainsaw will shine is with the bigger bar. Throw a 24" , 28" or a 32" and you are just as well to leave the 346xp in the truck because its out of its league. to me a 372xp with a 16" bar is like a F250 truck with 13" car tires. You also mentioned your ms460 with a 20" bar ? You must not cut over 20 or so " logs ? or are you cutting both sides to make 1 cut ? .......... not coming down on what you use or what you say , just flapping about preferences.


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## MALogger (Oct 5, 2006)

Hi Roospike,

It may seem on the surface that a 346 would cut as fast but when you add an 8 tooth sprocket which greatly increases chain speed trust me, I have used 346's and  the 372 the way I have it setup cuts extremely fast. I have tried many different setups and this is what works for me. Also I run semi skip chain (oregon #72CK). The longer the bar the more drag and resistence and the slower it cuts.

As for not cutting big wood, ask Earthharvestor he works with me on occasion and I assure you I cut plenty of big wood with that 20" bar. I do cut from both sides when felling the tree if it's diameter is bigger than the bar is long. But when bucking up wood I don't have to cut from both sides unless the tree is huge then I would have the 24" on the saw.

Craig


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## Yogi (Oct 15, 2006)

Ok guys, I have read and read and until my eyes hurt!! I think I have made my chice on my next saw, see what you guys think of my idea. I think the Husqvarna 346xp. It is light, has great power on paper at least, and will run an 18" bar easily. I have found a lot of videos and watched them again and again and have been practicing doing bore cuts on small trees, the wildthing  doesn't seem to have enough power to do it well. Most of the videos that I have seen came from Husqvarna and the saw of chioce was always the 346xp and usually with a 16" bar!! I was amazed at what could be done with that short of a bar!!
Do you guys think this is a good way for me to go?


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## Roospike (Oct 15, 2006)

Yogi said:
			
		

> Ok guys, I have read and read and until my eyes hurt!! I think I have made my chice on my next saw, see what you guys think of my idea. I think the Husqvarna 346xp. It is light, has great power on paper at least, and will run an 18" bar easily. I have found a lot of videos and watched them again and again and have been practicing doing bore cuts on small trees, the wildthing  doesn't seem to have enough power to do it well. Most of the videos that I have seen came from Husqvarna and the saw of chioce was always the 346xp and usually with a 16" bar!! I was amazed at what could be done with that short of a bar!!
> Do you guys think this is a good way for me to go?



The Husqvarna 346XP is an awesome chainsaw for sure , I own 2 of them.
There a fast , light weight saw and cut wood very well 16" and under.  I have the 18" bar and have kept it that was on both of mine.  

If your wanting a chainsaw for larger wood than you will need a larger chainsaw. Your best bet over all is to own a smaller saw and a larger one. 1 for limbing and light / smaller wood and 1 for the bigger trees and trunks.


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## DavidV (Oct 16, 2006)

I think the 18 inch bar is definately the way to go.  not too big. I still say to stay away from those giant trees of yours.  I will be putting an 18 or 20 inch bar on my 365.  I just like the control that a smaller blade offers.  The 24 inch blade is great if you have large wood but in the last few years I havn't found too hany things that would require such a large bar.


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## Eric Johnson (Oct 16, 2006)

The 346xp is an outstanding saw. Plenty of power and very lightweight. You won't be disappointed.


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## bobo (Nov 2, 2006)

Hey Yogi you still looking for a saw yet ? I got a very new Husky 346xp I'll sell you if your interested. I really dont like it 3 tanks gas through it.


 Bobo


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## Yogi (Nov 2, 2006)

bobo said:
			
		

> Hey Yogi you still looking for a saw yet ? I got a very new Husky 346xp I'll sell you if your interested. I really dont like it 3 tanks gas through it.
> 
> 
> Bobo




Don't like it? What is there not to like? I hear this i the baddest saw of it's size made, what's not to like?

Forgive my skeptisism, but you and I have a bit of a checkerd past, how can I be sure you won't screw me on this, as I am interested?


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## Andre B. (Nov 2, 2006)

Eric Johnson said:
			
		

> Hey Craig. What a coincidence. My dad wrote that book and I edited it. They told us it was out of print, but Bailey's must have a few copies stashed away.
> 
> I'm really glad you enjoyed it. I still pull it out and read a few chapters now and then. Still go back to Wisconsin every summer and cut pulpwood with the old man, too.



I didn't write or edit but my great grand father starred in it.
http://www.alibris.com/search/detai...best=15.95&pqtynew=0&page=1&matches=6&qsort=p
A little different kind of wood cutting.  I usually get it out in the spring when we are making syrup, few things better then sitting next to the cooker on a cold night out in the woods with a full moon throwing shadows and reading a book like this by the light of a gas lamp.

____________
Andre' B.


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## Gibbonboy (Nov 2, 2006)

Every time I think about felling trees, I just have to run my hand over my head to be reminded of the respect that trees demand. When I was 10 years old, my best friend and I were screwing around on the hill behind his house, maybe 500 yards up into the woods. We were cutting trees with an ax, and one hung up, it was maybe 8"-10" in diameter. Well, I tried hossing the tree down, slipped and fell under the trunk just as it broke loose. I don't remember the next two days. I spent several weeks in the hospital with a skull fracture, one of the sutures in my skull popped and now I have a very shallow ridge in my head. From what my friend said, the tree hit me above my left eye, and my head hit the rock on the back right side. Sandwiched my head, if the tree was any bigger, it would have popped my skull like a grape. 

Now add 3-7 horsepower and a blindingly fast chain, and it's a wonder more people don't die! Even cutting small trees, I take my time and plan every cut. I always wear my PPE, even if I'm "just making a couple cuts". I've been cutting wood for over 15 years, grew up watching people cut trees, but I never assume that I know what's going to happen when I make that last cut, or even that the tree will wait till the last cut to fall. Our cherry trees are almost always hollow when they are over 16" or so.


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## Eric Johnson (Nov 2, 2006)

I second that, Gibbonboy. Never trust a tree to do what you think it's going to do. Like driving, always be prepared for the unexpected, and give yourself every advantage you can. And remember that no matter what you do, it's still a very dangerous activity.


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## babalu87 (Nov 2, 2006)

Just ordered the book and some wedges.
Look forward to reading it by the fire with a glass of McClellands this Winter.

I cannot find wedges locally and since they have them too it defers the shipping cost as well.


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## Eric Johnson (Nov 2, 2006)

Ca Ching! Ca Ching!

Hope you enjoy it. Babs.


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## babalu87 (Nov 2, 2006)

How much you make a copy, maybe I should have bought one for my dad


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## Eric Johnson (Nov 2, 2006)

Not much. The last check I got was last spring for $33, and that was the first one in a couple of years. Of course, we split it 50/50, so that was my share.


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## bobo (Nov 7, 2006)

Yogi said:
			
		

> bobo said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Hey Yogi did you get the 346 that I shipped to you on Friday? Let me know when it gets there.




.


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## Yogi (Nov 7, 2006)

bobo said:
			
		

> Yogi said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...





Nope, not here yet, I hope you didn't bone me on this deal! I WILL find out where you live if I have too!


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## Roospike (Nov 7, 2006)

So Yogi is about to be armed with a 346XP, awe ...........


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## Yogi (Nov 7, 2006)

Roospike said:
			
		

> So Yogi is about to be armed with a 346XP, awe ...........





I hope!?!?!? I got a traking number, but no saw yet!?!?!


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## Roospike (Nov 7, 2006)

Yogi said:
			
		

> Roospike said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Well sir, did you track the tracking # ? were is it to be ?>


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## Yogi (Nov 7, 2006)

It says in OKC, so mabe tomorrow? I hope it's what he says it is, or I am out $200 and not happy


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## Roospike (Nov 7, 2006)

Yogi said:
			
		

> It says in OKC, so mabe tomorrow? I hope it's what he says it is, or I am out $200 and not happy


$200. from $540 new is a heck of a deal in my book. I see these puppies sell used for around $300.- $350. all the time. Be carefull with this little drag racer , its nothing like the wildthing.


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## bobo (Nov 7, 2006)

Your getting a great deal Yogi.


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## Yogi (Nov 7, 2006)

I hope so, from both of you Be nice to have something with more power, that weighs less, never thought that could happen!? We will see if it shows tomorow!


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## Roospike (Nov 7, 2006)

bobo said:
			
		

> Your getting a great deal Yogi.



What the HE(( bobo ! You sold him that for $200. !?!? 

I bid $300. Awe damn , ya already sent it .   ;-)


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## Roospike (Nov 7, 2006)

*YO Yogi* . We were just B.S. ya . That 346XP is a terrible saw , slow , no power and breaks down all the time.
Sense I'm such a good friend to ya , when you get that junkie 346xp chainsaw ........
Go ahead and send to me and i will throw ya $200. so you dont have to suffer.

Ya know , what are friends for ..............BUDDY !


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## bobo (Nov 7, 2006)

BTW it was 219.00 with shipping. I just didn't like the saw. It really seems like a good saw for beginner like Yogi. I Just bought a 5100s to replace it. Nothing against Husky but I wasen't that impressed with it. Yogi contacted me when I asked If he was interested.So I sold it to him with 2 chains.


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## Roospike (Nov 7, 2006)

bobo said:
			
		

> BTW it was 219.00 with shipping. I just didn't like the saw. It really seems like a good saw for beginner like Yogi. I Just bought a 5100s to replace it. Nothing against Husky but I wasen't that impressed with it. Yogi contacted me when I asked If he was interested.So I sold it to him with 2 chains.


I hear the D 5100s is an awesome saw , no dealer support round here tho. I have 2 of the 346XP and 1 H 359 so i was kinda in a pickle on the 5100s and love that 346 saw and seems to get used the most . Of course i whip out the bigger one for bucking the larger logs. He(( of a deal man .


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## bobo (Nov 7, 2006)

I just hope Yogi does what he said he would do. Get the proper PPE before he uses any saws. This saw might be just right for his needs.


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## Roospike (Nov 7, 2006)

bobo said:
			
		

> I just hope Yogi does what he said he would do. Get the proper PPE before he uses any saws. This saw might be just right for his needs.



I know i dont fire up a chainsaw with out my PPE. (Except for adjusting the carb and runing a tach on them )

YA Hear that Yogi !?!?!  Did you get your *PPE* ? ( *P*ersonal *P*rotection *E*quipment ) 

Chaps
helmet / eye / ear 
Work boots 
Use your head 120% of the time , Always think ahead , Dont work when you tired .


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## Yogi (Nov 7, 2006)

Roospike said:
			
		

> bobo said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




I went with my buddy Saturday to Lowes and got chaps and a helmet. I always wear leather boots, so nothing new there. I just hope this saw is what he says it is, and shows up


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## Roospike (Nov 7, 2006)

Yogi said:
			
		

> Roospike said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Awesome.


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## Yogi (Nov 7, 2006)

bobo said:
			
		

> Your getting a great deal Yogi.





Hey bobo, I was drooling over that picture again, and I noticed on the left side top of thestarter cover, it looks like it has an empt hole. Is there supposed to be a screw there? If so, is this saw missing anything else I should know about? Really feeling uneasy about this deal now!

You still give me my money if it doesn't run Roo?


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## Roospike (Nov 7, 2006)

The "holes" in the top cover are your carb adjustment screws under the cover.
ITs all good. Your getting a good deal. I dont think he is going to send you a chainsaw that does not run if ya'll talked about a running saw. Dont get edgie bout it , just wait until it shows up. Dont for get your gas/oil mix.


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## Yogi (Nov 7, 2006)

Roospike said:
			
		

> The "holes" in the top cover are your carb adjustment screws under the cover.
> ITs all good. Your getting a good deal. I dont think he is going to send you a chainsaw that does not run if ya'll talked about a running saw. Dont get edgie bout it , just wait until it shows up. Dont for get your gas/oil mix.



No, not there, by the gas filler, under the brake thingy to the left is where I am taliking about.


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## Yogi (Nov 7, 2006)

OOPPS! The oil filler, not the gas filler


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## ourhouse (Nov 7, 2006)

The 346 is a great choice, its an exelent saw. And always,always wear you'r PPE.


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## Yogi (Nov 8, 2006)

Well bobo, I have to say I am very happy so far, it is a very clean saw. I put gas and oil in it, five pulls latter it was running! Haven't had time to try and cut anything with it, but it does run! The hole looks lie a screw goes there, but doesn't appear to have ever had one in it?
Thank you bobo!


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## bobo (Nov 8, 2006)

Yogi said:
			
		

> Well bobo, I have to say I am very happy so far, it is a very clean saw. I put gas and oil in it, five pulls latter it was running! Haven't had time to try and cut anything with it, but it does run! The hole looks lie a screw goes there, but doesn't appear to have ever had one in it?
> Thank you bobo!




Glad it worked out for ya. Should be a great saw for your kinda use. Next time I sell a bigger saw you might get first dibbs on it. 



Bobo




,


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## zzr7ky (Nov 8, 2006)

Bobo -   You're treating yourself really well with the Dolmar 5100s!  I've had one for a couple months now.  I walk past the saws I used to like well.  I'm glad I passed on the 353 I had my heart set on.  Enjoy!

Mike P


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## bobo (Nov 8, 2006)

I just ordered two 5100s Dolmars last nite. If I like them I just might buy a 7900 to try out. I'm still wondering about longivity on the Dolmars. Have a friend that was running a 5100s for about a year that likes the saw. 



Bobo


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## zzr7ky (Nov 8, 2006)

Hi - 

The Dolmar I ran in the mid80's is still fierce!  They have a fine durability record.  I suspect that is way Makita spent the money.  I wish I had a decent excuse to buy a 7900! 

Enjoy!  
Mike P


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## Yogi (Nov 9, 2006)

Roospike said:
			
		

> *YO Yogi* . We were just B.S. ya . That 346XP is a terrible saw , slow , no power and breaks down all the time.
> Sense I'm such a good friend to ya , when you get that junkie 346xp chainsaw ........
> Go ahead and send to me and i will throw ya $200. so you dont have to suffer.
> 
> Ya know , what are friends for ..............BUDDY !




Not sure what you are talking about Roo, that saw is awsome I got to run it tonight, man that thing is mean I did some research and the best price I could find was $425 for the saw with a case and two chains. So I guess I must have done awsome for getting that for $200 Thank you agian bobo, what a great deal! That thing runs circles around my Wild thing I will have to change my signature and avatar now, to represent a "real saw" now!! Man, bring on the wood
Another question, know now what a 3120 is, I have been given the oppertunity to buy one, $500 or so, I know it is way too much saw for me, but man would it look cool I was told it runs great and all is well with the saw, is tat a decent buy?


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## My_3_Girls (Nov 9, 2006)

How about changing your Signature line???????

Whoops... I just read the rest of the post.


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## MrGriz (Nov 10, 2006)

Yogi does that mean that the wild thing is going to give up the crow and get fitted for a tiara?


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## Eric Johnson (Nov 10, 2006)

Good taste (and common sense) demands it!


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## MrGriz (Nov 10, 2006)

Sorry... I just noticed the typo in my post.

I meant to say give up the crown.  Maybe subliminaly I meant eat crow...


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## Yogi (Nov 11, 2006)

LOL!!  OK, OK, I will work on that guys!


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## Roospike (Nov 11, 2006)

Yogi said:
			
		

> LOL!!  OK, OK, I will work on that guys!



 Happy Birthday 2 U .......... Happy Birthday 2 U
Happy Birthday dear Yogi ..........................
Happy Birthday 2 U !  


*Your NEW Avatar Yogi *
* / Roospike /*


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## Yogi (Nov 11, 2006)

Well thank you Roo, as soon as I can get it resized and figure out how to ge my avatar to change, I was going to use an 090 contra lightning, but this is much better


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## bobo (Nov 13, 2006)

Hey Yogi ..Hows about an update on the 346? :coolsmile:


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## Yogi (Nov 13, 2006)

Well, I had to get a new chain, it was very dull, then I cut about a cord and a half this weekend, the saw ran great, I didn't! I ended up with the flu, so I moved real slow. That thing rips! I did find I couldn't push it real hard, but it cut like crazy Very happy with that deal bobo, thank you again for that saw!!
Then that othr saw you were talking about the 732? or whatever it was, still want to sell it? My buddy said I had no buisness with 3120, even just to have laying around the garage, so I guess I will have to pass on that deal


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## bobo (Nov 13, 2006)

Yogi said:
			
		

> Well, I had to get a new chain, it was very dull, then I cut about a cord and a half this weekend, the saw ran great, I didn't! I ended up with the flu, so I moved real slow. That thing rips! I did find I couldn't push it real hard, but it cut like crazy Very happy with that deal bobo, thank you again for that saw!!
> Then that othr saw you were talking about the 732? or whatever it was, still want to sell it? My buddy said I had no buisness with 3120, even just to have laying around the garage, so I guess I will have to pass on that deal




Yogi that was a 372 that I might sell. The 3120 isn't the saw for you.


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