# Manual vs power/professional  chain sharpening?



## Microduck17 (Feb 27, 2020)

I  took all my chains from my 460  rancher to the local  Husqvarna dealer and had them "professionally" sharpened expecting they would cut like new when I got them back.  
Two of the chains had found metal in the wood and were basically useless , they barely cut at all.  Two others were getting dull and not cutting efficiently and the one that I actually took off the saw to have sharpened was still cutting fairly well.   I was less than thrilled with the results.  The ones that were next to useless would cut OK again and the others were better off, but the one that came off the saw actually cut worse than before it was sharpened.

The few chains I've filed by hand cut almost like new.

Whats the deal here? Did they do a bad job on my chains or is this just par for the course for having chains sharpened  at a saw shop?


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## Jags (Feb 27, 2020)

Somebody simply did a poor job. It can take a bit of time to learn, but isn't difficult to do.  Get a stihl 2 n 1 ( or equivelent) and learn to sharpen them yourself. It takes only a few minutes per chain and yields a chain with good performance. 
Just one dudes opinion.


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## Sawset (Feb 27, 2020)

Jags said:


> Just one dudes opinion.


Make that two.  Three including the cat.
Very happy with the results.
Easy to do.
On the spot sharp and ready to work.
I used to hand sharpen in various other ways, and sometimes would take them in for sharpening - no more.
Rocking a chain can take more time to correct, but that's about it, just more time.
Takes about 4min for an 18" bar, about the time it takes to change out a chain, or to refuel.
Adjusts the depth teeth at the same time - very valuable bonus.
Another thought - a dull chain is often times cited as a way of ruining a saw.  It may seem as a disconnected issue, but a chain that cuts hard, can bog the saw, and cause it to overheat.  Heat destroys the oil mix surface film and could cause an engine to seize or be ruined in other ways.  A razor sharp chain is a benefit in more ways than one.


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## bholler (Feb 27, 2020)

I sharpen with a chain grinder now.  Used to do it with a Dremel.  To me the time savings is well worth the shortened life of the chain.  But yes if they try to take to much to fast they can overheat the chain which means it won't hold an edge long at all.


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## salecker (Feb 27, 2020)

The main thing about sharpening your chain with any method...
Is understanding how your chain actually cuts wood.
Once you have that understanding then you know where and what to sharpen.
The sharpest chains will come from someone who has the knowledge on what the chain does,and hand sharpens.Next will be a chain sharpened on a quality machine,by someone who knows what they are doing.


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## tadmaz (Feb 27, 2020)

I had some serious rocks and dirt frozen to some logs (see my post "Dulling chain") and using my pferd and some major major filing pressure, my stihl branded chain cuts far better than NEW.  Scary fast cuts.  Some folks say not to use pressure, but in my case I needed to take off some major material.  I recently rigged up a small drill press vise with some small pieces of wood with a gap in the middle for the chain to move, as opposed to a stump vise for filing.  I was previously putting the saw in between my legs on the ground and filing, this seems better.


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## SpaceBus (Feb 27, 2020)

I like my Granberg precision grinder. It keeps the cutters pretty even and I can run it off of any 12v battery. Currently I'm using a small 12v garage door battery charged with a trickle charger. Once I forgot to charge the small battery and I had to use my truck, no big deal.


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## MTASH (Feb 27, 2020)

I am also a fan of the 2-in-1 tools.  I bought a Pferd last season and wish I would've got it years ago.  So easy and fast. As @tadmaz stated, my chain cuts better than it did when new.


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## Jags (Feb 27, 2020)

Just for full disclosure...I have one of the cheap electric grinders that I use to correct a rocked out or badly damaged chain. It also works for truing up angle and length of the teeth.  The hand filing is for the “sharp”.

Note: heat is the enemy of cutting edges. Stay mindful when using ANY of the electric sharpeners.


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## Wood1Dennis (Feb 27, 2020)

I have a cheap electric sharpener that I got from Harbor Freight, I think it was $25 on sale. 
I know there are a lot better ones out there, it really is a cheap plastic thing. It needed some simple mods to get it to work, but once I got it set and working with my chains, it does a good job. My chains cut like new!
I used to take my chains to a local guy for sharpening, this sharpener has paid for itself many times over.


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## duramaxman05 (Feb 27, 2020)

I have a tecomec super jolly,(where they came up with there names is beyond me) same as a oregon 620-120. Does an outstanding job. Once you get it set right and remember not to take much metal off, it does great. I have had to go around a couple times just to get the bad teeth lined out rather than taking off a bunch of material at once.  I have had no problems cutting after I got done sharpening. Even in hickory which I think is hard to cut. I still use a file out in the woods though.


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Feb 27, 2020)

I  found when I had chains sharpened .. they did not touch the rakers ..
 My 2in1 is used 99% of the time ..if it's that bad .. i just toss it !


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## Sawset (Feb 27, 2020)

What is the average shop rate to sharpen a chain? It's been a long time.
Average size, 18"


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## RandyBoBandy (Feb 27, 2020)

Major sharpening is done on my Stihl FG2 sharpening jig. Here i measure each tooth as I go and try and keep them within 5 thousandths. Teeth that are really short for some reason get skipped until the rest finally catch up. I field dress with a hand file every couple of tanks until it’s time to put them back on the jig. I can get quite a bit of distance between each major sharpening. As long as I don’t find a rock or metal that is.


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Feb 27, 2020)

Sawset said:


> What is the average shop rate to sharpen a chain? It's been a long time.
> Average size, 18"


It's been a long time for me ..off the saw $5


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## Microduck17 (Feb 27, 2020)

I paid  $7 chain to have them sharpened. There was an old barber in my home town than sharpened chainsaw chains, mower blades, knives and, saw blades.   Every chain he ever did for me cut better than new. Too bad he retired and moved away  I have one of the harbor freight chain grinders but never got good results with it. I never thought to go over it with the file after grinding to really get it good and sharp.   I have good results with the file and a basic guide but its slow going when the chain is really rough.  Definitely going to be trying the grind then file procedure.


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## Socratic Monologue (Feb 27, 2020)

I gave up on saw shop sharpening (they take off too much material), and hardware store (egad! overheated!).  I hand file, and it teaches me patience.

Get a couple brands of files to see which you like, and get a few extra chains so you don't feel obligated to spend the whole day on a bad one.  I keep a chain for each saw in the tool box, and two more for each in the garage, and will happily put on a new chain if it avoids building frustration in the woods.  I don't wanna operate a saw if I'm feeling upset.


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## SpaceBus (Feb 27, 2020)

If you like hand filing the granberg file n joint is pretty nice. It has a length adjustment and will pretty much guarantee a perfect  a perfect cutter. The stihl micro 1/4" profile chains suck to hand file and are the main reason I bought an electric grinder.


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## Woodspliter (Feb 27, 2020)

I always hand file works great for a while on a new chain but I always seems to take more on one side or the other on the life of the chain. I've tried the timberline sharpener but i only could get it to sharpen one side of the chain good maybe I just cant figure it out. So I just bought last year a Oregon chain sharpener no regrets perfect geometry every time. I still file in between fill and usually run them though the grinder at the end of a good cutting day.


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## duramaxman05 (Feb 28, 2020)

Sawset said:


> What is the average shop rate to sharpen a chain? It's been a long time.
> Average size, 18"


A place in town charges $7 for 20" and under. I think $10 for over 20". That's off the saw. They charge a few more dollars if it's on the saw. They have an automated sharpener. It's pretty cool to watch.


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## mtcox1791 (Feb 28, 2020)

+1 for the 2-in-1.


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## Medic21 (Feb 28, 2020)

I do both at times.  I love the Oregon 620-120.  With a CBN wheel and practice you can take off less than when using a manual file, I’ve proven this with a dial caliper, and have a better, longer lasting edge, than new.  I actually touch up new chains before I run them.  

The number one mistake is taking too much and over heating the chain. Mistake number two is not clearing out the fuller of the cutter, need it open to clear out the chips. Mistake number three would be not hitting the rakers.

I hand file in the woods when a chain just needs a quick touch up.


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## Medic21 (Feb 28, 2020)

Sawset said:


> What is the average shop rate to sharpen a chain? It's been a long time.
> Average size, 18"


I charge $5 no matter the size.


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## Microduck17 (Feb 28, 2020)

That looks like a good setup. I'll have to look into one of those.  I've really got the hang of hand filing the cutters but I'm kind of lost on how and when to file the rakers. 
I have filed down the tops of the rakers on one particularly worn-out chain and it seemed to help some.  Any pointers on getting the chain fine tuned when hand filing?


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## Medic21 (Feb 28, 2020)

Microduck17 said:


> That looks like a good setup. I'll have to look into one of those.  I've really got the hang of hand filing the cutters but I'm kind of lost on how and when to file the rakers.
> I have filed down the tops of the rakers on one particularly worn-out chain and it seemed to help some.  Any pointers on getting the chain fine tuned when hand filing?


File the rakers to .025 under the cutter.  I check them every sharpening but, only grind them every third or forth sharpening when they need it.

Hand filing is all about angles and holding them.  That’s what’s so nice about the grinder.  Easy to keep everything perfect and uniform.


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## Woodspliter (Feb 28, 2020)

I've got the same set up. That's awesome! Nothing like the perfect geometry everytime. Let's face it pretty expensive for the average firewood cutter but if your like me and have to go scavenging once in a while this is your best friend!


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## Medic21 (Feb 28, 2020)

Woodspliter said:


> I've got the same set up. That's awesome! Nothing like the perfect geometry everytime. Let's face it pretty expensive for the average firewood cutter but if your like me and have to go scavenging once in a while this is your best friend!



$350 or so on Amazon, 10-12 Stihl chains.  Once I got the hang of it and started sharpening for others I had it paid for in a few months.   The CBN wheels make the difference though.


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## Woodspliter (Feb 28, 2020)

Where do you find those?


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## Medic21 (Feb 28, 2020)

Woodspliter said:


> Where do you find those?



I get them on Amazon.  $100 a piece.  Good for about 1000 chains a wheel.


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## Woodspliter (Feb 28, 2020)

That's some serious grinding! I'm still on the original wheels.


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## Medic21 (Feb 28, 2020)

Woodspliter said:


> That's some serious grinding! I'm still on the original wheels.


The run so much cooler and are more precise than the pink wheels.


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## duramaxman05 (Feb 29, 2020)

Medic21 said:


> $350 or so on Amazon, 10-12 Stihl chains.  Once I got the hang of it and started sharpening for others I had it paid for in a few months.   The CBN wheels make the difference though.


You can buy the stens brand tecomec super jolly which is the same as the oregon 620-120. Apparently tecomec makes the Oregon grinders. Maverick mower supply has the for $288 and free shipping.


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## SpaceBus (Feb 29, 2020)

I derped and forgot to hit the rakers after filing the cutters five or six times. The cutters could shave my face, but won't cut a thing because the rakers are so long...


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## Sawset (Feb 29, 2020)

This looks like a handy little gadget and matching chain. Plus it's on a husky, win win. Russian innovation.


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## Medic21 (Feb 29, 2020)

Sawset said:


> This looks like a handy little gadget and matching chain. Plus it's on a husky, win win. Russian innovation.


I bought one for shits and giggles.  It would work for the homeowner that uses a saw once a year or so.  Other than that the chain does not hold an edge, the chains are expensive, and it’s pretty much worthless.


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## Medic21 (Feb 29, 2020)

duramaxman05 said:


> You can buy the stens brand tecomec super jolly which is the same as the oregon 620-120. Apparently tecomec makes the Oregon grinders. Maverick mower supply has the for $288 and free shipping.


I’ve seen that.  I may buy a second on to set up for rakers.  I’ve been eyeing the Temco auto one just to use for the rakers.


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## PaulOinMA (Feb 29, 2020)

Another vote for the Stihl 2-in1 or equivalent.


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## RandyBoBandy (Feb 29, 2020)

Hand power with a lot of patience


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## SpaceBus (Feb 29, 2020)

RandyBoBandy said:


> Hand power with a lot of patience


I like your rig! Looks like a stationary version of the Granberg File-N-Joint.


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## duramaxman05 (Feb 29, 2020)

Medic21 said:


> I get them on Amazon.  $100 a piece.  Good for about 1000 chains a wheel.


Would you by chance have the info on those cbn wheels? I am very interested in them. Thanks


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## Medic21 (Feb 29, 2020)

duramaxman05 said:


> Would you by chance have the info on those cbn wheels? I am very interested in them. Thanks











						CBN Plated 5-3/4" x 1/8" Chainsaw Grinding Wheel
					

#3700673 is a CBN plated Chainsaw Grinding Wheel. CBN abrasive wheels are for use on steel saw chain.



					www.sharpeningsupplies.com


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## duramaxman05 (Feb 29, 2020)

Medic21 said:


> CBN Plated 5-3/4" x 1/8" Chainsaw Grinding Wheel
> 
> 
> #3700673 is a CBN plated Chainsaw Grinding Wheel. CBN abrasive wheels are for use on steel saw chain.
> ...


Thank you


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## DodgyNomad (Feb 29, 2020)

MTASH said:


> I am also a fan of the 2-in-1 tools.  I bought a Pferd last season and wish I would've got it years ago.  So easy and fast. As @tadmaz stated, my chain cuts better than it did when new.



Another vote for the 2 in 1


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## RandyBoBandy (Mar 1, 2020)

SpaceBus said:


> I like your rig! Looks like a stationary version of the Granberg File-N-Joint.


Thanks. I really like it. It’s simple and very effective. It can take sometime if the chain is in rough shape buts that’s fine with me. I just get a good fire going in the barn and turn on some music and sharpen chains for a couple of hours.


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## kennyp2339 (Mar 1, 2020)

I have both a 2 in 1 hand sharpener and an electric sharpener, I prefer the hand vs electric to be honest, its just as fast and the hand seems more precise, I have the husky 2:1 it will sharpen the blade and lower the raker all at the same time, I generally touch up my chain every other fuel tank fill, I use full chisel chains now since most of my cutting is just bucking and not felling. 
I will still use the electric sharpener to reshape a blade if I hit something in the wood or a rock in the ground, but luckily I haven't had to do that in over a year. Since owning the hand sharpener I've seen a great extended life of my chains, generally I can get on average of 12 full cords bucked on one chain before it gets to stretched out, that's good enough for me. 
I've also use to bring my chains to the hardware store down the road from me to get sharpened, idk what they do but they literally take over half the tooth off when sharpening, butchering the chain in the process, that's what got me into sharpening my own stuff to begin with.


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## Medic21 (Mar 1, 2020)

kennyp2339 said:


> I have both a 2 in 1 hand sharpener and an electric sharpener, I prefer the hand vs electric to be honest, its just as fast and the hand seems more precise, I have the husky 2:1 it will sharpen the blade and lower the raker all at the same time, I generally touch up my chain every other fuel tank fill, I use full chisel chains now since most of my cutting is just bucking and not felling.
> I will still use the electric sharpener to reshape a blade if I hit something in the wood or a rock in the ground, but luckily I haven't had to do that in over a year. Since owning the hand sharpener I've seen a great extended life of my chains, generally I can get on average of 12 full cords bucked on one chain before it gets to stretched out, that's good enough for me.
> I've also use to bring my chains to the hardware store down the road from me to get sharpened, idk what they do but they literally take over half the tooth off when sharpening, butchering the chain in the process, that's what got me into sharpening my own stuff to begin with.


They usually take the young kid that works in there and say here how this works and turn him loose. He doesn’t know anything at all about what he’s doing.


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## Medic21 (Mar 1, 2020)

These are the before and after for grinding the chain.  Unless you hit a rick or chunk of metal that damages the chain this is about normal.  .347 inches down to .324.  Not even .015 inches off the chain to put an edge that’s better than a factory edge back on it.  There is a lot of sharpening left.

I do sharpen more than a lot of people do. I ran this chain for three tanks of fuel today and it was still throwing good chips. It was slowing down though. That’s the difference between having the equipment at your fingertips or paying someone.


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## Sawset (Mar 2, 2020)

I measured removal rate for 1stroke of the 2:1, and if remember right was about .004to .005".


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## kswaterfowler (Mar 7, 2020)

I keep this in my kit out there with me








						Husqvarna Combination Swedish Roller Guides
					

Specially designed file guide by Husqvarna that gives the correct filing angle every time. The Husqvarna combination Swedish roller file guide also includes a depth gauge tool. Fits easily on your chain, and the rubber guides keep your file edge sharp. The depth gauge has both hardwood (less...




					www.baileysonline.com
				




I hand filed freehand for a long time. I like this little device. I also have the harbor freight sharpener. I use it after hitting something to set the angle. Also keep a flat file handy for keeping the rakers down.


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## SpaceBus (Mar 7, 2020)

kswaterfowler said:


> I keep this in my kit out there with me
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I've tried this tool and messed my chain up. It just didn't work well for me.


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## ben94122 (Mar 7, 2020)

I didn't like the way the clamping screw in my stump vice was making scratches in the bar, so I put an old bike inner tube around it. Seems to hold the bar a bit better.


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## dquest (Apr 7, 2020)

Jags said:


> Somebody simply did a poor job. It can take a bit of time to learn, but isn't difficult to do.  Get a stihl 2 n 1 ( or equivelent) and learn to sharpen them yourself. It takes only a few minutes per chain and yields a chain with good performance.
> Just one dudes opinion.


Juts bought the 2 n1 maybe a month ago after the "professional" job was poorly done. The 2n1 is fantastic !!


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## Microduck17 (Apr 11, 2020)

I've been cutting a lot here the last week or two since I'm not working at the moment and have been practicing my hand filing and have it down to a science using a guide and a vice.   I took 2 of my chains that cut slow even though they were really sharp and used a small flat file to take 5 strokes off each raker and boy oh boy what a difference! The saw saw seems to almost fall right through smaller logs and easily cuts the big stuff with little or no down pressure.  I tried it on some red oak about 18 inches around thats pretty dry and hard, it gets through that hard stuff knots and all with ease.


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## kennyp2339 (Apr 12, 2020)

I swear by the 2:1 hand sharpener, but I also bought a 3 pack of regular stihl round files, used a round file only yesterday while bucking and noodling big ash and oak rounds. Before I started cutting I re-shaped my chain, already had about 6 cords worth of cutting on it, push cutting slash / crap in the woods and had hit the dirt a number of times, did 10 strokes per tooth, the chain was sharper then when I originally put it on brand new, I've been using tractor supply county line 20" 3/8 pitch full chisel chains, they do tend to stretch out a bit while using, but I can easily get 8-10 cords cut per chain before it becomes to stretched to use.


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## Microduck17 (Apr 12, 2020)

kennyp2339 said:


> I swear by the 2:1 hand sharpener, but I also bought a 3 pack of regular stihl round files, used a round file only yesterday while bucking and noodling big ash and oak rounds. Before I started cutting I re-shaped my chain, already had about 6 cords worth of cutting on it, push cutting slash / crap in the woods and had hit the dirt a number of times, did 10 strokes per tooth, the chain was sharper then when I originally put it on brand new, I've been using tractor supply county line 20" 3/8 pitch full chisel chains, they do tend to stretch out a bit while using, but I can easily get 8-10 cords cut per chain before it becomes to stretched to use.


I'll likely get a 2in1 at some point in the near future.  The beauty of hand filing is you can easily touch up your chain wherever you are cutting.   I carry several spare chains and a spare bar but rarely need them.    I need to get another file for the smaller chains on my cordless saws and smaller gas saw. Any experience with a stunp vice?  They look useful but I've never tried one.


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## Sawset (Apr 12, 2020)

Microduck17 said:


> I'll likely get a 2in1 at some point in the near future.  The beauty of hand filing is you can easily touch up your chain wherever you are cutting.   I carry several spare chains and a spare bar but rarely need them.    I need to get another file for the smaller chains on my cordless saws and smaller gas saw. Any experience with a stunp vice?  They look useful but I've never tried one.


Yes I have a stump vise, and use it every time I sharpen. It works best if you can pound it into end grain. I also have it spiked to a 2x10x24 pc for using in the garage and back of the truck. The thumb screw is a little weak for tightening, so right now I use a small pliers to cynch it down. Maybe someday I'll replace that part with something I can get ahold of. On the otherhand, it is currently handy to slip in a back pocket, so no hurry.


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## SpaceBus (Apr 12, 2020)

I have used a stump vise in the past, but I prefer using a regular table vice that can attach to my trailer hitch.


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## Bill the Dog (Apr 19, 2020)

I have been a hand filer for a long time too.  I take my Stihl full chisel chains in to the local Stihl dealer about once a year for electric grinding to true things up or if I hit a nail or something.  I always liked the job they did.  Hand  filing was OK to really good.  I have a guage to do the rakers at 0.025", but that is clearly not as aggressive as when I would get the chains back from the dealer.  Because i REALLY like an aggressive chain that pulls the saw into the wood, I decided to buy my own electric grinder a few weeks ago.  I bought the Oregon 410-120.  It took a bit of time to really read the instruction manual and get it set up.  Plus reading different forums on what angles to use, but I finally went out yesterday with a chain that I sharpened myself.  Wow!  The saw cut as good or better than it does with a new chain.  I only cut for about 4 tanks of gas (3.5 hours), but the chain did not need touching up in the woods.  It was pulling into the wood at the end of the day better than I could ever get it with hand files.  I was cutting fairly large (12-20" diameter) oak.  The saw was throwing large chips all day.  I may have ground the rakers a little too much as my saw would bog down once in a while on the larger logs.  Bottom line for me is, although it's early days, I really, really like the Oregon 410.  Now I don't have to go to the dealer, drop off a chain, go home, wait a day or two, go back to the dealer and pay for a sharp chain.  I wish I could cut more wood just so that I can use this grinder more.
Anyway, one guys opinion.

Bill the Dog


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## wahoowad (Apr 24, 2020)

I've been trying to use a Grandberg File-n-Joint for years and never get a chain that stays sharp. I feel I'm using it right, getting the settings right for different chains, just lasts about 2/3 of processing a medium size tree before I notice it producing less chips and more sawdust. So I end up using it a lot when doing tree work but feel I'm spending more time than needed repeatedly sharpening it. Might have to switch to a Stihl 1-n-1 given the rave reviews. 

Sure could use that magical tip that somehow makes the Grandberg produce a chain that lasts longer than I'm getting


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## SpaceBus (Apr 24, 2020)

wahoowad said:


> I've been trying to use a Grandberg File-n-Joint for years and never get a chain that stays sharp. I feel I'm using it right, getting the settings right for different chains, just lasts about 2/3 of processing a medium size tree before I notice it producing less chips and more sawdust. So I end up using it a lot when doing tree work but feel I'm spending more time than needed repeatedly sharpening it. Might have to switch to a Stihl 1-n-1 given the rave reviews.
> 
> Sure could use that magical tip that somehow makes the Grandberg produce a chain that lasts longer than I'm getting






This video helped me. I get good results without his modifications, but I'd still like to do them all the same. 
If I had a drill press I'd make a few changes to mine.


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## Zack R (Apr 24, 2020)

I sharpen by hand with the chain still on the saw, mounted in the vice. Its simple, requires only a minimal investment in tools and for me its relaxing. Rather than waiting until its in bad shape I touch it up often so its always razor sharp. I have a raker file gauge but  rarely use it, instead I just hit each of the rakers with a few file strokes every few sharpenings.


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## blades (Apr 24, 2020)

I run a saw sharpening /machine shop- so chains are all done on machines semi chisel on the chop saw style ones and Full chisel on the Simington Square grinder.  I keep files and a 12v rig in the truck for out in the field.  I do not have time for the Hand filing of customers chains a lot of which can be pretty nasty. Avg. month would be some 100 + chains, the virus bug has slowed  things down quite a bit but it is also mud season of late so that also slows traffic down.


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## SpaceBus (Apr 24, 2020)

blades said:


> I run a saw sharpening /machine shop- so chains are all done on machines semi chisel on the chop saw style ones and Full chisel on the Simington Square grinder.  I keep files and a 12v rig in the truck for out in the field.  I do not have time for the Hand filing of customers chains a lot of which can be pretty nasty. Avg. month would be some 100 + chains, the virus bug has slowed  things down quite a bit but it is also mud season of late so that also slows traffic down.


The local logging company/tractor dealer/chainsaw dealer has had logs piled up on their lot with all the feller bunchers and trucks just sitting around.


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## blades (Apr 25, 2020)

one of my customers , a tree service, is down to about one crew as many did not want be out and about due to the virus - per the owner.  Being a one person shop I do not have all that much exposure, and I stay away from any of the big stores. The state does have a stay home order/ closure of none essential businesses - bit of a grey area for me.


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## Stelcom66 (Apr 25, 2020)

bholler said:


> I sharpen with a chain grinder now.  Used to do it with a Dremel.  To me the time savings is well worth the shortened life of the chain.  But yes if they try to take to much to fast they can overheat the chain which means it won't hold an edge long at all.



How did you like the results using a Dremel? I bought a new chain at TSC and saw they had replacement sharpening stones for a chainsaw sharpener. Would they work with a Dremel tool? I know it would not be nearly as precise. Maybe there's an attachment for the Drenmel for
that purpose.


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## Sawset (Apr 25, 2020)

Stelcom66 said:


> How did you like the results using a Dremel? I bought a new chain at TSC and saw they had replacement sharpening stones for a chainsaw sharpener. Would they work with a Dremel tool? I know it would not be nearly as precise. Maybe there's an attachment for the Drenmel for
> that purpose.


I used the dremel attachment and round emery stone insert for it for quite a few years. One thing is, it requires electric on mine to run, which means bringing them home to sharpen. Another is that the depth teeth are done seperate. The 2in1 does both, is precise, handy and takes equal or less time. Overall, if comfort level and results makes people drift from one method to another, then my current end game is on the 2n1.


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## blades (Apr 25, 2020)

with any of the little hand held electric grinders the results are not stellar but will get you bye.  They do make Diamond stones for those which last a lot longer than the vitrified ones.  Every other blue moon someone brings in a carbide tipped chain.  So I just use the dremel and the diamond bit on those ( most of the time 1/3 or more of teeth are missing any ways)  the CBN wheels ( sometimes called diamond) are not for use on carbide. the matrix on the wheel is different - much finer grit electroplated on wheel.  CBN - Cubic Boron Nitrate- man made diamond- almost as hard as Mother Natures OEM product. The lastest product called CBX is for use where one would be grinding carbide and steel together, but is not the case on a carbide tipped chain.


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## Stelcom66 (Apr 25, 2020)

That Sthil 2 in 1 got really good reviews. One thing to watch for that I didn't really think of is the depth of the rakers, or depth gauges. After
repeated manual sharpening it seems the cutting part of the chain may be reduced in height, so the raker could be level making the cutting portion ineffective.

As for the cutting stones I saw at TSC, I assume they're not diamond or CBN. Because the rakers are to be considered at some point when sharpening, you must really need to know what you're doing if sharpening by hand. The Sthil 2 in 1 appears to file the rakers accordingly though, making it a good alternative to a chain sharpening machine.


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