# Seriously considering the Hearthstone Manchester wood stove



## izzyq (Oct 9, 2013)

OK went and saw the Hearthstone Heritage and Manchester-WOW! Beautiful stoves.  Nothing like the old VC my parents had when we grew up.

I really liked both (although they have a different look and feel to them) but we are leaning towards the Manchester.  I know they are only on the market about a year but I was hoping someone here had some real life experience burning one.  Just looking for any thoughts or problems (or raves!  LOL)


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## begreen (Oct 9, 2013)

We don't have a lot of data on this stove yet, but it looks like a strong follow up to their Bennington with some improvements.


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## webby3650 (Oct 9, 2013)

I have had a chance to look the Manchester over and have seen it burn. I think it's a strong heater! I don't see any issues that could arise with realy, it doesn't really have any new technology in it. They took a proven combustion system and did a few upgrades to it.


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## Backwoods Savage (Oct 9, 2013)

Welcome to the forum izzyq.

One suggestion is if you like the Heartstone line, and we did too the last time we bought a stove, I would suggest you look at the Woodstock lineup. You can see them all here:   www.woodstove.com

We came close to buying a Hearthstone stove and also the Lopi Leyden but have never been sorry (especially when reading a few bad reports on those 2). We bought a Woodstock Fireview, which is smaller than the Manchester. However, the Woodstock Progress would certainly serve you well. These can be purchased directly from the manufacturer and they give you a six month guarantee on the stove. If it does not suit your needs, you get your money back. Also, the Progress has a cooktop which works very well and it is one of the cleanest burning stoves on the market. 

Good luck.


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## BrotherBart (Oct 9, 2013)

That Manchester should make you a great looking heating beast with that 2.9cf firebox. 515 lbs of cast iron firebox with soapstone lining will hold heat for a long, long time.

Pic for those that haven't seen that big beauty.


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## Hardrockmaple (Oct 9, 2013)

That is one fine looking stove, now I have to go find a dealer in my area.


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## begreen (Oct 9, 2013)

That shows off their casting refinements nicely. It also has a novel, left or right side loading door too that's designed to capture ash and bark crumbs.


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## Heatsource (Oct 9, 2013)

I really like the Manchester- we sell them at our other shop, so i have little actual experience with it.


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## Woody Stover (Oct 9, 2013)

BrotherBart said:


> That Manchester should make you a great looking heating beast with that 2.9cf firebox. 515 lbs of cast iron firebox with soapstone lining will hold heat for a long, long time.
> 
> Pic for those that haven't seen that big beauty.


I've seen one in brown at a local stove shop. Looks even better in person. 

I say buy one today. We need more input on how this stove runs.


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## BrotherBart (Oct 9, 2013)

If they would just put that damn door latch on the proper side.


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## Toploader (Oct 9, 2013)

I had a conversation with someone last week when I was seriously thinking about this stove. He ran the stove the latter part of last year. I would really like to have the Manchester myself but I decided it's a tad big for my set up.I hope this helps: 

-It is an excellent stove. 

-It is very easy to use - one air control in front, starts very easy. I leave the door open a crack for extra draft due to our house being very tight but that should change this year due to just hooking up the outside air kit this weekend 

-Burn time: I had a HearthStone Mansfield as our last stove. It had an amazing long heat output due to full soapstone construction, in the morning I would still have plenty of coals to get a new fire going. With the Manchester, I still have coals to start with in the morning also, but the outer surface is not quite as warm as the Mansfield. The outside is still warmer than an all cast stove for sure. I do notice there is more complete combustion in the Manchester (Mansfield seemed to build up a lot more coal/ash no matter how hot I ran it).

-Radiant heat: since the Manchester is both cast and soap, it's still warm near the hearth, but not enough to get things hot (not nearly as hot as the Mansfield did). Also, the convection of this stove is amazing, my whole house seemed to be a relatively even temperature, as we have 1/3 floor open to the small second floor which has an open staircase back down to the first for good circulation, not to mention a very open cabin style floor plan. You can hang out near the stove without stripping down.

-size: I love the firebox size. I can squeeze enough thru the side load (24" logs) to get a good size fire, of course your last log on top can't be huge in any stove. 

 -I absolutely love this thing so far and find no negatives, unless you want to count some ashes falling out the front door IF you open it. But that's mainly because the logs are sideways against it when I side load. Personally I think the Manchester is under priced compared to equal sized stoves.


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## cighon (Oct 10, 2013)

We have the Manchester, got it black friday last year and got and extra $200 off that day. Indstalled it 2 weeks later, was running 3 days after that when it passed town inspection. Have it hooke up to a SS chimney (worst part about the whole experience-seeing that silver line up the side of my house). Stove works great. One note, it does like lots of air. Need to open a door/window when starting or the draft wont get going, smokes up the basement. With running it 3 months last winter the 6" chimney has very little ash in it.  At first laughted about the ash pan, thought it would be just as easy to shovel out the ash through the big stove door (lots of glass to see your efforts). But i must say that i use the as pan with opening up the grates at the bottom to remove ash.


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## webby3650 (Oct 10, 2013)

cighon said:


> We have the Manchester, got it black friday last year and got and extra $200 off that day. Indstalled it 2 weeks later, was running 3 days after that when it passed town inspection. Have it hooke up to a SS chimney (worst part about the whole experience-seeing that silver line up the side of my house). Stove works great. One note, it does like lots of air. Need to open a door/window when starting or the draft wont get going, smokes up the basement. With running it 3 months last winter the 6" chimney has very little ash in it.  At first laughted about the ash pan, thought it would be just as easy to shovel out the ash through the big stove door (lots of glass to see your efforts). But i must say that i use the as pan with opening up the grates at the bottom to remove ash.


Your issue with the stove smoking up the basement isn't the stove, but rather your chimney system.


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## begreen (Oct 10, 2013)

Chimney could be ok but it does sound like he is fighting negative pressure and should hookup an outside air kit.


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## cighon (Oct 10, 2013)

Yes an OAK is next on my list of stove to do's.  No problem with smoking tonight.


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## Todd 2 (Oct 10, 2013)

BrotherBart said:


> 515 lbs of cast iron firebox with soapstone lining will hold heat for a long, long time.


Well stated, and good looks.


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## begreen (Oct 10, 2013)

cighon said:


> Yes an OAK is next on my list of stove to do's.  No problem with smoking tonight.


If you are on the cusp, intermittent sources like a kitchen or bathroom exhaust fan, or a dryer running can make a difference. Sounds like an OAK will be helpful here.


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## Wise Guy (Oct 12, 2013)

izzyq said:


> OK went and saw the Hearthstone Heritage and Manchester-WOW! Beautiful stoves.  Nothing like the old VC my parents had when we grew up.
> 
> I really liked both (although they have a different look and feel to them) but we are leaning towards the Manchester.  I know they are only on the market about a year but I was hoping someone here had some real life experience burning one.  Just looking for any thoughts or problems (or raves!  LOL)



Hi izzyq:

I just today joined this forum, in part to learn from others what I can about wood stove heat and how to better use it.  I inherited a wood stove, a stove made by Haughs, from my grandparents years ago.  It became obvious even to me that it needed to be replaced.  I stumbled upon this website a month or so ago, and I decided to join to ask questions.  Your post offers one of the more obvious places for me to launch into a few issues because I decided to go with Manchester as a replacement stove for the one I had.  I have had fire in the box only twice, but already I have a few things I don't like about it.  There are some things I do like about it, but I'll get to that in a moment.  To me the cons are as follows: 1)the ash pan design with an open end in the back where ashes are easily spilled out as you pull it out is something I think most users will find less than desirable.  If you aren't careful, you are likely to spill the ashes out of the back of the tray.  2)The wood handle.  It's not really the wood handle so much as that extra inch or so of cast iron that one is very likely to grab in addition to the wood handle that makes this somewhat less than desirable.  In other words, if you aren't careful, you might grab that inch or so of cast iron while intending to grab only the wooden handle.  You might get a burnt trying to open the door.  3)the so-called 2.9 cf of firebox.  It will take a some tricky maneuvering to get the wood to burn in such a way that it doesn't fall into the window.  I didn't get my tape measure out, but I think you can safely ignore the .9 part of the equation.  4)I don't know why, but the "safety label" really just sort of dangles there under the stove.  I think a better design could have helped to better tuck it away.  The manual states this, "After final positioning of the stove the label may be stored between the cable end and the bottom as shown in figure below."  The bottom of what?  The picture is no real help.  But what would help is for there to have been created some sort of clip/s for the label to slide into.  5)There are all sorts of warnings in the manual about not overfiring the stove.  However, there are no real criteria given to determine overfiring, i.e., no concrete temperature beyond which you should go or you will overfire the stove.   The only information given about temperatures comes with the "Initial Firing" guide.  It states, "Manufacturers have selected Stove Bright (R) brand coatings because the product has been proven durable, colorfast, and beautiful at temperatures to 1200 (degrees) F."  It goes on to say, "Slowly bring the stove to a medium burn, about 400 (degrees), for about 45 minutes" and then adds, "Increase the burn temperature to a hot burn, about 600 (degrees), for an additional 45-60 minutes."   

Ok now for what I think are the pros.  I do think the cast iron construction with the soapstone liners is a winning combination.  On our initial start up, it took about 20 minutes to feel any real heat coming from the stove, but from there after, the stove did not disappoint us with how it produced heat.  2)The side door load feature is a real benefit for me, and I like it that the front door has the hinges on the right.  We also like the large view offered by the window.  3)I did like waking up in the morning to feel a warm stove, and a warm house too, and yes there were some hot embers that I could have used to rekindle a fire.  That was after putting wood in the stove at 11pm and waking up at 630am.  4) I like the addition of the leg levelers.  My hearth is not exactly the most level place, and the levelers helps smooth things out.  

Well that's my initial take on the Manchester, but the real test is forthcoming.  Perhaps what I have stated above is of some benefit to you.


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## BrotherBart (Oct 12, 2013)

Sounds like the parts about why ya buy a wood stove are getting it done, no?

Yeah every manufacturer should openly publish over-fire temps and where to measure them. I have given up on it. Only two I know of do it. I think it is a way to weasel on warranty claims for over-firing.


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## Woody Stover (Oct 12, 2013)

Wise Guy said:


> the ash pan design with an open end in the back where ashes are easily spilled out as you pull it out is something I think most users will find less than desirable.  If you aren't careful, you are likely to spill the ashes out of the back of the tray.


I guess that's the trade-off for being able to easily slide the ash off into a bucket without creating a big dust cloud.



> 3)the so-called 2.9 cf of firebox.  It will take a some tricky maneuvering to get the wood to burn in such a way that it doesn't fall into the window.  I didn't get my tape measure out, but I think you can safely ignore the .9 part of the equation.


Yeah, they all seem to claim fire box volume that in most cases isn't really useable. 



> no concrete temperature beyond which you should go or you will overfire the stove.   The only information given about temperatures comes with the "Initial Firing" guide.  It states, "Manufacturers have selected Stove Bright (R) brand coatings because the product has been proven durable, colorfast, and beautiful at temperatures to 1200 (degrees) F."  It goes on to say, "Slowly bring the stove to a medium burn, about 400 (degrees), for about 45 minutes" and then adds, "Increase the burn temperature to a hot burn, about 600 (degrees), for an additional 45-60 minutes."


Myself, I probably would try to stay around 600 max. Not sure where you would put a surface thermo to get a reading, with the convective top, but I would just shoot through that with the IR gun and relate that temp to the temp on the surface thermo, wherever I ended up putting it.


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## rideau (Oct 13, 2013)

A member bought one of these last year.    Great features of this stove are that it requires only ember protection, and it is narrow front to back so can be used where many other stoves would not fit.


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## BrotherBart (Oct 13, 2013)

Lattice stove tops are a killer for using stove top thermometers because of air movement in the spaces. Same problem with the Jotul F100. Sometimes cute looks features screw up being picky about stove management. 

But the heat exchanging value of the extra surface area is worth it.


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## Woody Stover (Oct 13, 2013)

BrotherBart said:


> Lattice stove tops are a killer for using stove top thermometers because of air movement in the spaces. Same problem with the Jotul F100. Sometimes cute looks features screw up being picky about stove management.
> 
> But the heat exchanging value of the extra surface area is worth it.


I know you're a fan of the big honkin' plain-jane plate steel jobs....but "cute?" C'mon!  They don't call it the _MAN_chester for nothing.... Great-looking stove when you lay eyes on it.
I think the lattice top is a good design feature to move more air past the fins on top of the fire box and pull more heat off quicker.
A buddy of mine is thinking of putting a stove in next year. They have a pretty big house, but have a separate heat zone on the bedrooms upstairs. The doorway out of the stove room is real wide, so I'm thinking a convective stove like the Manny could handle the lower level pretty well. The Manchester, Isle Royale and Cape Cod are a few that I think may work there....the Cod is only top-vent, so it may be out. Looks like a hearth-mount (or insert) is the way to go over there.


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## D8Chumley (Oct 13, 2013)

Wise Guy, I had a few of the same thoughts you have. I haven't fired mine yet, I will finish up with the chimney pipe today and it will be ready for that whenever I have time. Talmadge PA, huh? I worked out there for almost a year at the old Stoltzfus Quarry ( I worked for ICM for a year and a half, now back at AAM) if you are familiar with the place at all


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## begreen (Oct 13, 2013)

BrotherBart said:


> Lattice stove tops are a killer for using stove top thermometers because of air movement in the spaces. Same problem with the Jotul F100. Sometimes cute looks features screw up being picky about stove management.
> 
> But the heat exchanging value of the extra surface area is worth it.



Looking through the top slot, the Manchester stove top appears to have deep convective finning on the top. Is that correct? If so that is a whole lot more heat exchanging surface area than usual for a wood stove.

Having a trivet (lattice) top that is moveable is a strong selling point for me. Even our old 602's lattice top is removable for cooking. I like to have my stove top thermometer on the stove top. And I like having the option to cook on the stove top.


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## BrotherBart (Oct 13, 2013)

Yeah it looks like the stove was designed for max surface area and convection too.


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## begreen (Oct 13, 2013)

When someone has the stove top up to 600F could you try holding a sheet of paper or toilet paper in front of those convection slots? I wouldn't be surprised it if didn't need a blower to move that paper aggressively.


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## Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar (Oct 13, 2013)

A pic under the Manchester top:


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## begreen (Oct 13, 2013)

Yep those are heat exchanger fins. I have seen them on a few undersides of stove tops, but not on top like that. It should boost convection quite a lot. They need to put a left and right hole in the top that would allow you to view a small 2" dial thermometer if it was on the back flat area of the stove top.


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## Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar (Oct 13, 2013)

There are holes directly above the fins of the exchanger. If you put a thermometer behind the fins on the flat area I think you would be able to see it if you look at an angle.


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## begreen (Oct 13, 2013)

Hmm, I would be thinking a metal hole saw. , but let's see how that works for you.


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## Woody Stover (Oct 13, 2013)

Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar said:


> There are holes directly above the fins of the exchanger. If you put a thermometer behind the fins on the flat area I think you would be able to see it if you look at an angle.


I've got a mini flashlight on the mantle that I use to see my flue thermo, which sits back on the tee inside the fireplace. You may have to paint the pointer white and face the top of the dial forward, but it might work....


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## Holiday (Oct 13, 2013)

What about putting it in that opening that can be seen from the front? That's where I have it on my stove.


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## Wise Guy (Oct 14, 2013)

D8Chumley said:


> Wise Guy, I had a few of the same thoughts you have. I haven't fired mine yet, I will finish up with the chimney pipe today and it will be ready for that whenever I have time. Talmadge PA, huh? I worked out there for almost a year at the old Stoltzfus Quarry (I worked for ICM for a year and a half, now back at AAM) if you are familiar with the place at all


 
D8Chumley:  Yes, I know where the old Stoltzfus quarry is.  Talmage is a quiet place to live.  and we love it.  

BrotherBart:  yes, the main reasons we bought this stove, the cast iron construction/soap stone lining and firebox size, are indeed getting the job done, but that was on a rather timid fall evening.  The real test is coming this winter.  

Woody Stover: FWIW, I attached the thermometer to the stove pipe about six inches from the top of the stove.  During the initial firing, I never got the temperature above 450..I couldn't stand much more than that, and I doubt I'll ever run it much more than 600

I do have a question, one I couldn't get an answer to before I bought this stove.  Does anyone know how this stove, the Manchester by Hearthstone, is constructed?  Will I need to be concerned with re-constructing the joints in a few years?


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## Wise Guy (Oct 14, 2013)

Wise Guy said:


> D8Chumley:  Yes, I know where the old Stoltzfus quarry is.  Talmage is a quiet place to live.  and we love it.
> 
> BrotherBart:  yes, the main reasons we bought this stove, the cast iron construction/soap stone lining and firebox size, are indeed getting the job done, but that was on a rather timid fall evening.  The real test is coming this winter.
> 
> ...



Oops forgot to mention this:  I noticed that the air control lever would not move after the initial firing.  It moved before the initial firing and during the initial firing, but when I woke up, and went to start a second fire, I noticed that I could not move the air control lever.  That got me concerned.  Any thoughts?


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## BrotherBart (Oct 14, 2013)

Yep. A concern. Dealer needs to fix that.

Move that thermometer up to around 18" - 24" from the stove top and figure on holding it under about five hundred on hot reloads and start ups. After the load settles in it will come down to the 250-350 range for cruising with good dry wood.

As to construction an iron stove will need to be a rebuilt around ten years, burned correctly. That stove is probably constructed with gasket material instead of furnace cement in the joints which could both maybe give a longer rebuild time and also make a rebuild a breeze compared to a cemented stove.


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## D8Chumley (Oct 15, 2013)

BrotherBart said:


> Yep. A concern. Dealer needs to fix that.
> 
> Move that thermometer up to around 18" - 24" from the stove top and figure on holding it under about five hundred on hot reloads and start ups. After the load settles in it will come down to the 250-350 range for cruising with good dry wood.


The manual suggested no more than a foot


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## Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar (Oct 17, 2013)

Wise Guy said:


> Oops forgot to mention this:  I noticed that the air control lever would not move after the initial firing.  It moved before the initial firing and during the initial firing, but when I woke up, and went to start a second fire, I noticed that I could not move the air control lever.  That got me concerned.  Any thoughts?



I'm having a little issue with my air control as well. After the first fire it's much harder to move and seems to get stuck at the midway point.

UPDATE: My air control is now working great. It seems that it was just a temporary product of the break in fire. I've had it hot and cold a couple times since without a single problem.


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## Wise Guy (Oct 20, 2013)

Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar said:


> I'm having a little issue with my air control as well. After the first fire it's much harder to move and seems to get stuck at the midway point.
> 
> UPDATE: My air control is now working great. It seems that it was just a temporary product of the break in fire. I've had it hot and cold a couple times since without a single problem.


 
I have not used my Manchester wood stove since that initial start up fire.  Temps here in south-central Pennsylvania have been in the mid-70s.  I can say that I can move the lever.  I'll have to see how things go.  I am encouraged that the problem may be isolated to the initial firing of the stove.


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## D8Chumley (Oct 21, 2013)

I burned mine for about 8 hrs yesterday afternoon and into the evening. Down in the low 40s this morning. Didn't load it up before bed but damped it down and there were still coals this morning. No issue with the air control lever so far. It had no problem cruising at 375-400 with maybe 2/3 to 1/2 air. Had all the windows open and it was still hot in there.  Love this thing so far


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## izzyq (Oct 21, 2013)

I'm getting excited to get this stove.  Work has started on the hearth and back wall and we will be ordering the stove this week.  Still can't decide whether to go with the brown enamel or the matt black.  Decisions, decisions...


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## Woody Stover (Oct 21, 2013)

izzyq said:


> I'm getting excited to get this stove.  Work has started on the hearth and back wall and we will be ordering the stove this week.  Still can't decide whether to go with the brown enamel or the matt black.  Decisions, decisions...


They had a brown in the shop last fall, that thing looked great!  I stopped in the other day and they've sold that one. The man said they'll be getting another one soon but wasn't sure if it was brown or black....
Yeah, I'm excited about it too and I'm not even in the market for a stove!  But if this stove is as good as it looks, I may try to get my buddy to buy one so I can play with it.


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## Wise Guy (Oct 21, 2013)

As temps fell through the 50s last evening and into the 40s, and with our 100+ yr old house feeling a little on the chilly side (the lone thermostat read 64 degrees), I decided to crank up the Manchester.  I burned it from about 7pm till 11pm.  The temps slowly rose, but by 11pm the thermostat read 76 degrees.  When I woke up at 630, the stove felt similar to holding a hot cup of coffee, and the house too felt warm as the temps fell to 71.  There were enough embers in the fire box that I am certain I could have gotten a fire started without newspaper and using only firewood.  Ok, maybe a little kindling would have helped.  As for the air control lever, it stiffened up again during the fire, but when I got up, I was able to move it again without any trouble.  I love the efficiency of this stove!


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## Wise Guy (Oct 26, 2013)

I have a few questions that I hope you folks won't mind addressing.

First, Izzyq, I am wondering if the comments made here by so many have been helpful to you?  Have you made a decision?  This week, as temps have fallen in Pennsylvania, I have had the opportunity to burn wood in the "Manny," as Woody Stover calls it.  I've been thinking about posting a short video of the Manny in action.  You and others might find that helpful.  I'm thinking of focusing on the re-burn and what smoke there is out the chimney.  When I first wrote to you, I explained what I think are some pros/cons about the Manny.  I can add another con: too much smoke escapes out of the front door when opened for reloading.  The manual states, "When opening the front door to reload or rearrange logs, it is advisable to open the door just a crack, pause for a moment then open the door completely....In addition, reloading on a bed of hot, red coals reduces smoking time..."  I have found that the operative word in all of this is the word, "reduces."  Yes, following this method "reduces smoking time," but it doesn't eliminate the smoking time.  I don't want to see any smoke escape.  I haven't been able to open the door without smoke escaping into my living room.  That rarely happened with that old steel construction Haughs stove I inherited from my grandparents.  I can say that I don't see that problem when I open the side door.  Guess which one I try not to use

Second, Brother Bart, you say, "an iron stove will need to be a rebuilt around ten years, burned correctly."  What do the words "burned correctly" mean?  I guess this ultimately gets back to that issue of over-firing.  No where can I find what that actually means.  The nebulous sentence in the manual that reads, "Over-firing means the stove is operating at temperatures above normal temperatures," is about as helpful as is your sentence.  I can't ask the writers of the Manchester manual to explain what "normal temperatures" are, but I can ask what you mean by "burned correctly."  Please explain.

Third, D8Chumley, you say in reference to the placement of a thermometer, "The manual suggested no more than a foot" (from the top of the stove?) Where, what page does it say that?  I can't find any reference to where to place a thermometer.  Perhaps you can help.  Where are you measuring the temperature of the stove?  

Fourth, PYRO, alias Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar, thanks for supplying those pictures of the top of the Manchester.  I could place a thermometer there on the top of the stove under the convective top, but at this point that wouldn't be easy.  How'd you get that convective top off?  And perhaps you can help me figure out how to get that back plate off too.  (not that I want to remove it permanently, but when it comes to moving this 515 pound beast, I could remove those pieces in addition to the 50 lbs of soapstone lining to lighten up the load.  Izzyq might like to know how to do this too, especially if she is moving it herself.  This brings me to my last question.  Have you taken the Manchester apart?  Perhaps you would have a very clear idea of how this stove is constructed.  I still want to know what I am up against in terms of the short-term and long-term maintenance of this stove.  Changing the three door gaskets is one thing: resealing all the many internal joints is another.  The manual only mentions replacing the door gaskets, but says nothing about the internal joints that apparently will also need to be reconstructed at some point during its lifetime (10-15-20-more yrs?) of service.  

Thanks in advance for your assistance with these questions.


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## Woody Stover (Oct 26, 2013)

Wise Guy said:


> the "Manny," as Woody Stover calls it.


Please excuse the misnomer on my part; The "Manny" nickname had already been reserved for Hearthstone Mansfield, so it's gotta be the "Manchy." I hereby dub you The Man of LaManchy.


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## Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar (Oct 26, 2013)

Wise Guy, I had considered putting a thermometer under the top plate but instead I've been using an infrared temp gun to get my stovetop temps, I just shoot it down through one of the holes.

To get the top off there is a bolt at each end of the stove. If you look directly above and to the inside of the side door handle you should find one, the other is in the same place at the other end of the stove. Once these are out the top should lift right off and after the top is off the back panel comes off by sliding it upward, you'll have to finagle it around a bit to get it up and out past the rear flu outlet. Both of these panels removed definitely takes a good chunk of weight off of the stove. I haven't had it any further apart than this, I only had to remove these panels in order to install the blower but once I had them off I left them off until I had the stove in place.I just left the bolts out of my top so I don't have to deal with them down the road when I decide to clean underneath the top.

I myself haven't had any issues with smoke coming out either door during reloads but that could be due to me being in a rather drafty 100+ year old farmhouse and having a 28' flu, my chimney draws very well.


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## Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar (Oct 26, 2013)

Woody Stover said:


> Please excuse the misnomer on my part; The "Manny" nickname had already been reserved for Hearthstone Mansfield, so it's gotta be the "Manchy." I hereby dub you The Man of LaManchy.




Or maybe Chester....


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## Woody Stover (Oct 26, 2013)

Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar said:


> Or maybe Chester....


Oh yeah, I _like_ that!


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## Wise Guy (Oct 26, 2013)

Woody Stover said:


> Oh yeah, I _like_ that!



If the word West is added to Chester, you'll peg my childhood neighborhood.  Perhaps D8Chumley knows where that is.  But the sound of LaManchy of West Chester has no appeal at all.  I was once dubbed Sir Edward of Nottingham, Purple Knight of the Green Forest, so need for anymore dubbing.


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## D8Chumley (Oct 26, 2013)

Wise Guy said:


> If the word West is added to Chester, you'll peg my childhood neighborhood.  Perhaps D8Chumley knows where that is.  But the sound of LaManchy of West Chester has no appeal at all.  I was once dubbed Sir Edward of Nottingham, Purple Knight of the Green Forest, so need for anymore dubbing.


That I do, about 1/2 hour South of me. The 12" above the top of stove on the stack thermometer is on p. 27, 2nd paragraph of the owners manual in the troubleshooting section
Edit: I load mine from the side, no smoke into the house


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## Woody Stover (Oct 26, 2013)

Chester (melt yer) drawers!


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## cighon (Nov 24, 2013)

Well just awoke to get a drink at 4:15 and its still 71 in the living room, Manchester loaded last at 10:45 in the basement, with an outside temp of 27. Love that stove. Will let it go until 7 and see how it makes it thru the night.


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## DianeB (Nov 24, 2013)

Wise Guy said:


> I have a few questions that I hope you folks won't mind addressing.
> 
> First, Izzyq, I am wondering if the comments made here by so many have been helpful to you?  Have you made a decision?  This week, as temps have fallen in Pennsylvania, I have had the opportunity to burn wood in the "Manny," as Woody Stover calls it.  I've been thinking about posting a short video of the Manny in action.  You and others might find that helpful.  I'm thinking of focusing on the re-burn and what smoke there is out the chimney.  When I first wrote to you, I explained what I think are some pros/cons about the Manny.  I can add another con: too much smoke escapes out of the front door when opened for reloading.  The manual states, "When opening the front door to reload or rearrange logs, it is advisable to open the door just a crack, pause for a moment then open the door completely....In addition, reloading on a bed of hot, red coals reduces smoking time..."  I have found that the operative word in all of this is the word, "reduces."  Yes, following this method "reduces smoking time," but it doesn't eliminate the smoking time.  I don't want to see any smoke escape.  I haven't been able to open the door without smoke escaping into my living room.  That rarely happened with that old steel construction Haughs stove I inherited from my grandparents.  I can say that I don't see that problem when I open the side door.  Guess which one I try not to use
> 
> ...


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## Manchester (Feb 18, 2014)

izzyq said:


> OK went and saw the Hearthstone Heritage and Manchester-WOW! Beautiful stoves.  Nothing like the old VC my parents had when we grew up.
> 
> I really liked both (although they have a different look and feel to them) but we are leaning towards the Manchester.  I know they are only on the market about a year but I was hoping someone here had some real life experience burning one.  Just looking for any thoughts or problems (or raves!  LOL)


I purchased  the manchester wood stove and have nothing with problems.  I bought the stove in Oct of 2013 and it broke in November of 2013.  I called for a warranty repair in Dec 2013 and and still waiting for repair in Feb of 2014.  There is a problem with the metal plate on the side loading door that causes it to warp out of shape.  In addition to that the hinge assembly also is faulty as the door falls off and chips that enamel finish.  In my opinion, hearthstone is not a reputable company to purchase from since they do not service their products and rely solely on the dealers to fix them.  I am still waiting for a fix and have filed a small claims suit to replace the stove since the dealer tapped the body and used the wrong thread insert on the stove.  Now the lower dorr does not seal at all. In short, having to wait three months to get your stove fixed under warranty is not what you want to deal with.  Also, my stove was missing parts from the factory as the technician pointed out to me.


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## D8Chumley (Feb 18, 2014)

Sorry to hear of the trouble that you're having but mine has been flawless


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## begreen (Feb 18, 2014)

Sounds like a serious dealer issue on top of stove issue. Have you taken this up directly with Hearthstone? What part(s) were missing?


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## Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar (Feb 18, 2014)

I know I've praised this stove on here but I am presently having some issues with mine as well. It's kinda like that last car built on a Friday. I seem to be having the same side door issue as was mentioned above by Manchester. I opened the side door a few days ago to find one bolt missing and the inside plate warped. Also, I might note that mine was missing some parts from the factory as well and I'm a bit perturbed at my dealer and Hearthstone at the moment. When I got the stove it was missing one of the clips that holds the front glass, the top wasn't bolted down(I wasn't aware that it was supposed to be until a few months later), the hang tag with all of the stove info was missing(hearthstone sent a new one), a bolt that holds the back on was broken, I assume this was caused by the top not being bolted down during shipping(I drilled out and repaired myself), and the ash pan door does not close flush with the front of the stove(a cosmetic issue I've lived with but my wife can't stand).  I called the dealer way back when about the clip and screw for the glass and she had hearthstone ship the part, now...months later I received a bill for $25!! just to ship a clip and screw in an envelope. The parts were "no charge" they just ridiculously jack up the shipping to a price they could have over-nighted the thing to Australia for. The $25 to mail an envelope along with the warped inside door panel were the straw that broke the camels back, I'm now dealing with Hearthstone and my dealer to get the stove exchanged.

I really can't complain about its heating ability and it is a new stove so maybe these are some bugs they need to work out but the Hearthstone customer service is very lacking to say the least.


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## DMB (Feb 18, 2014)

Well this thread turned ugly fast!  Not having any problems with mine but don't feel real confident about the future.  Especially since I don't burn mine as much as those commenting.

One thing I did notice recently as I was cleaning out the firebox and sweeping some ash...the aforementioned bolt on the door side, the nut was really loose.  I actually think that I might have loosened it with the brush.  Anyhow, tighted it back up and didn't think much of it.  Just thought that I might need to check those more often.

I'll be really looking for these issues now.  Dissappointed others are having problems with this stove because I really like it, and want to keep it that way.


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## Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar (Feb 18, 2014)

Really the heat this thing puts out is awesome and I love the looks of the stove so I'm hoping that they exchange it and I don't have any problems with the replacement stove.


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## begreen (Feb 18, 2014)

DMB said:


> One thing I did notice recently as I was cleaning out the firebox and sweeping some ash...the aforementioned bolt on the door side, the nut was really loose.  I actually think that I might have loosened it with the brush.  Anyhow, tighted it back up and didn't think much of it.  Just thought that I might need to check those more often.
> .


Sounds like loctite may be needed here?


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## jillybeansisme (Feb 20, 2014)

Curiousity here since I'm researching stoves for my next house . . . can you put a small slab of soap stone on top or inside of a woodstove that isn't soapstone and let that heat up during a burn to later radiate that heat?  When I was in my Sister's house (may she RIP), they used to just put logs in and I never saw a thermometer . . . guess I have a lot to learn and your thoughts on the soapstone slab would be appreciated.


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## rideau (Feb 20, 2014)

You can certainly put soapstone on top of a stove, for cooking or for heat retention, or to warm the slab for use as a bed or footwarmer....I keep several extra slabs on top of my Woodstock stove.


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## firefighterjake (Feb 20, 2014)

jillybeansisme said:


> Curiousity here since I'm researching stoves for my next house . . . can you put a small slab of soap stone on top or inside of a woodstove that isn't soapstone and let that heat up during a burn to later radiate that heat?  When I was in my Sister's house (may she RIP), they used to just put logs in and I never saw a thermometer . . . guess I have a lot to learn and your thoughts on the soapstone slab would be appreciated.




You can put a soapstone slab on top of a steel or cast iron stove ... but you will not get the same effect in terms of heat as an actual soapstone stove. I have a slab on top of my Oslo ... looks nice ... but no real gain with heat retention.


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## Wise Guy (Feb 22, 2014)

Hey Manchester:  Sorry to hear about the problems with your stove.  I checked the bolts on the door to my Manchy, and all is well.  My stove must have been made on Monday.  I do have one craftsmanship issue with my stove, it seems to draw air from the side opposite the door.  I think it isn't properly sealed, as the stove burns first on that side, and other issues too that will go unmentioned.   At this point, I am just living with it.  I have never had the stove above 500* so I think it doesn't overfire, but as I have mentioned before, I have no idea what overfire would mean.  I've not had to tap into Hearthstone's customer service, but if I have to rely on my dealer to fix warranty issues, I'll probably have to get noisy, and in today's world where profits are everything, getting really loud about customer service may be your only alternative.  Keep squawkin' cause it's the only wheel that gets oiled.  I hope the issues get resolved.  Other than the side panel not being properly sealed, I have no real issues with the craftsmanship of this stove.  As I've mentioned before, I do have issues with some of the design features of this stove, but overall I am very happy with this stove. It has produced abundant heat during this harsh winter we've had, and it's done so with less wood too.  Keep us posted on the outcome of your case.


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## begreen (Feb 22, 2014)

Most any stove that is totally new is going to have some refining to do during the first year or two. Hearthstone needs to step up to the plate here.


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## Wise Guy (Feb 23, 2014)

yup, make a lot of loud noise until the problem gets fixed


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## D8Chumley (Feb 23, 2014)

I cleaned mine out yesterday since it got pretty warm, first time in several weeks. I didn't realize how dirty the front glass really was. Oh well, it was busy doing what I bought it for- heating my house  Hopefully your issue gets resolved. I don't have any issues (yet) and it does a great job in the heat department


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## jrems (Feb 23, 2014)

I think some of the issues are directly related to the person building the stove. I have a hearthstone shelburne. I just replaced the ceramic baffles and had to remove the top to do it. One of the 4 bolts was cross threaded when it was originally installed. It snapped when I tried to remove it. I had to drill and retap with the next larger size bolt to get it back together. The casting had a slight flaw(small protrusion)and and you could tell it would have been impossible to put the bolt in straight. It took me less than a minute with a hand file to file it so the bolt could go in straight. I am a little disappointed the original assembler put the bolt in crooked and called it good enough instead of taking 60 seconds to file the metal to get it to go in straight. 
Besides the build issues, it's a great stove. I am very happy with it. It heats well and looks good.


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## Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar (Feb 23, 2014)

jrems said:


> I think some of the issues are directly related to the person building the stove. I have a hearthstone shelburne. I just replaced the ceramic baffles and had to remove the top to do it. One of the 4 bolts was cross threaded when it was originally installed. It snapped when I tried to remove it. I had to drill and retap with the next larger size bolt to get it back together. The casting had a slight flaw(small protrusion)and and you could tell it would have been impossible to put the bolt in straight. It took me less than a minute with a hand file to file it so the bolt could go in straight. I am a little disappointed the original assembler put the bolt in crooked and called it good enough instead of taking 60 seconds to file the metal to get it to go in straight.
> Besides the build issues, it's a great stove. I am very happy with it. It heats well and looks good.



I agree with the statement regarding things being dependent on the person or persons building the stove. After many times speaking with hearthstone customer service(which I believe is a one man show consisting of Ray Mayer), I don't get that warm fuzzy feeling of a place that takes pride in what they build. I get a get them out the door to make a buck and hope we don't here back from the customer feeling.


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## Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar (Mar 4, 2014)

My stove issues were supposed to have gone "in front of the warranty board"(the words of Ray Mayer) last Weds....again....

Still no call-back...no nothing. My dealer called them and is also waiting to hear back. What a wonderful company.


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## Simonkenton (Mar 5, 2014)

That is a beautiful stove.


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## izzyq (Mar 5, 2014)

I hope you get your issues resolved quickly.  I would not be happy either if I was having problems and I felt they weren't being addressed.  So far I have been 100% happy with my Manchester.  It has done a great job heating my house and I haven't had any issues.  Once we are done with the season I will make sure we do a through look at everything and make sure we still feel that way.

Keep us posted on how you make out.


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## Woody Stover (Mar 6, 2014)

These mechanical issues don't sound like problems that couldn't be remedied, but PYRO's dealings with the company so far aren't reassuring. It's a big investment and you'd think it would be in their interest to keep their customers happy. If they don't step up, I'd have a hard time recommending the stove to a buddy of mine who's been thinking about putting one in.
I'll talk to the dealer in town (same place DMB got his) and see how many they've got out there so far, if there have been any problems with those, and also ask how their dealings with Hearthstone have been. I believe this dealer has a pretty good reputation.
I fell in love with the stove when I first saw it and I really hope it turns out to be a great one, with the company standing behind it when needed. I don't off-hand recall reading much here about Hearthstone customer service....


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## undy (Mar 6, 2014)

Woody Stover said:


> If they don't step up, I'd have a hard time recommending the stove to a buddy of mine who's been thinking about putting one in.


Sorry to say, I'd have a hard time recommending one too.  I've been waiting over 6 months now for a lower air inlet, and the Hearthstone won't even return my emails.  The dealer I ordered the part through says Hearthstone claims they shipped it but can't show delivery.

What good is a wood stove in winter that you can't get parts for?


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## TNTall (Mar 25, 2014)

Hello all. I am new to the forum.

I just built a new house and put a Manchester in it. If I can get the fire going good, it will sometimes burn up the wood very completely with almost nothing left. My problem is that 24" logs won't burn correctly - being too far away from the air coming in at the middle. Long logs will burn up in the middle, but they will not collapse because the ends of the logs hold them up. And then the fire will often go out even though it was blazing great to begin with. 

I've never had a stove with the ash cleanout pan. It seems like part of the problem is that the hot coals are burning up in the middle of the stove and falling through the grates leaving no heat there to keep the fire going.

I chose this stove because of the 24" max log length being better than most, so having to cut the logs shorter would be a disappointment. Using 24" logs is the only way to fill up the firebox volume anyway. Has anybody else been having this issue?

Thanks, Greg


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## D8Chumley (Mar 25, 2014)

I cut mine 22-23" ( I have a sharpie mark on the side of my saw) but this year I've been using a lot of 18+" that I had processed for the old stove. I'll find out next year I suppose. And the grates should be closed if the ash door is closed, the door won't shut without closing it- on my stove anyway. I have thrown a few longer pieces in this year and didn't have any issues. I only clean mine out maybe once a week also, so I usually have a nice coal bed even if I am gone for 6-8 hrs to get it going again


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## TNTall (Mar 25, 2014)

Maybe that's what I need to do... leave ashes in the bottom. I have been cleaning them out every day.

My last stove was a Quadrafire 2100 with max log length of 16". It's a lot more work cutting, splitting, and handling all of those short logs. That's why I chose this stove. Every time somebody gave me firewood, it was too long, and cutting off logs is a pain in the rear.


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## begreen (Mar 25, 2014)

Oy, if I clean out ash more than once a month I find it a chore. Though this winter it did get down to about every 2-3 weeks when burning soft maple.


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## TNTall (Mar 25, 2014)

After shoveling out a stove with no ash tray for so many years, cleaning out the ashes in the Manchester is almost enjoyable for me haha!


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## D8Chumley (Mar 25, 2014)

TNTall said:


> Maybe that's what I need to do... leave ashes in the bottom. I have been cleaning them out every day.
> 
> My last stove was a Quadrafire 2100 with max log length of 16". It's a lot more work cutting, splitting, and handling all of those short logs. That's why I chose this stove. Every time somebody gave me firewood, it was too long, and cutting off logs is a pain in the rear.


You can use those cut-offs for shoulder season. I have a pile of them just for that


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## Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar (Mar 25, 2014)

A little update: I have been a very very squeaky wheel for a while now and finally they agreed to replace my stove. Long story short, my new stove is sitting at my dealer about 2 hrs away waiting for me to pick it up. I am up in the air as to whether I should keep the replacement stove or sell it and get something I have a bit more faith in... maybe an Ashford? or a Jotul f500 or 600? maybe? Don't know, I have really mixed feelings. Anyone in the market for a brand new Manchester?


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## izzyq (Mar 26, 2014)

Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar said:


> A little update: I have been a very very squeaky wheel for a while now and finally they agreed to replace my stove. Long story short, my new stove is sitting at my dealer about 2 hrs away waiting for me to pick it up. I am up in the air as to whether I should keep the replacement stove or sell it and get something I have a bit more faith in... maybe an Ashford? or a Jotul f500 or 600? maybe? Don't know, I have really mixed feelings. Anyone in the market for a brand new Manchester?



Glad you got some results being the squeaky wheel!  I'm glad they are making it right.  Good luck with whatever you decide to do!


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## Motor7 (Mar 26, 2014)

PYRO, If your dealer agrees to take it back if it does not perform to satisfaction, I say plug it in and burn it.


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## Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar (Mar 26, 2014)

Motor7 said:


> PYRO, If your dealer agrees to take it back if it does not perform to satisfaction, I say plug it in and burn it.


I have a bad taste in my mouth and little faith left in my dealer or Hearthstone. Where'd you get your Hearthstone, Motor? I used to work for a Hearthstone dealer in East TN. Lived in the Gatlinburg/Pigeon Forge/Sevierville area. That's one reason I went with this stove, back then they seemed like a much better company.


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## Motor7 (Mar 26, 2014)

Rescued it from the front yard of a farm in KY.....it was in rough shape. I have not bought a new HS since 1983-ish & never needed any CS support then. I will say that when i was rebuilding the H1 a few years ago Jim Casavant with Hearthstone went above and beyond with tech support & in helping me locate parts.


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## Motor7 (Mar 26, 2014)

I hear ya on the bad taste, & only you can decide which way to go. If you still want stone take a look at Woodstock.........


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## Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar (Mar 26, 2014)

Motor7 said:


> I hear ya on the bad taste, & only you can decide which way to go. If you still want stone take a look at Woodstock.........



We'll see...when I get the nice shiny new stove home I may decide to give it another shot. As I've mentioned before in other posts: the stove I received just seems like the "last car built on a Friday" type of deal. It seems that it was time to clock out, let's just throw it together and get it out the door. The Manchester is a newly released stove so I can see there being some bugs to work out and if Hearthstone had handled this in a timely fashion and made things right when they went wrong I would most definitely give it another try.

I have been considering Woodstock's new Ideal Steel stove but sometimes I look at it and think 'ahh that doesn't look too bad' then other times I look at it and it's uglier than all get out. I do like the progress Hybrid though, just wish it was a few hundred cheaper and wish it had both a front and side door. Seems it would be a pain to clean that glass and there are times when I use both doors on the Manchester just to get the splits packed in there good and full. The more I look around at stoves the more the Jotul f600 grows on me but then again my closest dealer is 2hrs away just like it was with the Manchester.


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## begreen (Mar 26, 2014)

It's good to hear that the dealer and Hearthstone have come through. Hope the new one works out well for you.


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## Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar (Apr 1, 2014)

Decided not to keep the new stove, looking at replacing it with the BK Ashford, the PE T6, or the Jotul f600... Maybe.


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## BrotherBart (Apr 1, 2014)

Hopefully...


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## Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar (Apr 1, 2014)

BrotherBart said:


> Hopefully...



Looks like it might get replaced with an Englander 30, BB... I was going to order one last week on the HD sale but they were sold, now they're back in stock. Can't beat $649!


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## Grisu (Apr 2, 2014)

Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar said:


> I have been considering Woodstock's new Ideal Steel stove but sometimes I look at it and think 'ahh that doesn't look too bad' then other times I look at it and it's uglier than all get out. I do like the progress Hybrid though, just wish it was a few hundred cheaper and wish it had both a front and side door.



Woodstock has a sale going on right now. Maybe your wish of a few hundred cheaper ($500 less, to be exact) is being granted.  It's no Englander territory, though. Is your hearth up to Englander specs?


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## Papa-Yankee-Romeo-Oscar (Apr 2, 2014)

I know, still not quite there though, even with the sale it's just not quite down to what I'm willing to pay. Shipping jumps it up another couple hundred too.


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## jonnybeans (Feb 16, 2015)

I am new to the forum. I bought a Manchester in the fall of 2013. Had the black water droplet problem at first but that went away. I also had to replace the top baffle board after I had used if for about sixty days. The baffle board is basically a piece of fire retardant homosote looking sheet goods. It just sits on top of the baffle tubes and causes the fire to circulate toward the front of the stove before it goes up and out the flu. The dealer warrantied the first baffle board but now I am one season later and its all crumbled and falling apart again. I load the stove from the side door so I am sure that wood occasionally makes contact with the baffle board but you'd think they would make it out of something a little more sturdy so it doesn't keep falling apart. I called the dealer and he told me that it wasn't covered under warranty and that I would have to pay $78.00 for a new one. Forget about the fact that i can buy a sheet of 4 x 8 premium birch plywood for less than that, I'm disappointed that I should have to keep replacing this part every year. My glass door also broke this season (my second burning season). It wasn't from loading the stove. The only thing I can think of is that a log rolled while it was burning and it hit the glass. Of course the dealer tells me that the glass isn't covered, and that a new piece of glass only (no door parts) is just shy of $300.00. That seems like a ton of money for a piece of glass. So I love the stove and the way it burns when it's all in one piece but I am disappointed with the issues that I've had and, in addition to terrible customer support, I think Hearthstone is ripping people off on their replacement parts.


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## begreen (Feb 16, 2015)

That is expensive for glass. If it happens again you can go to a good local glass shop and get a piece of pyroceram cut to size for less than half that cost. Or it can be ordered from www.onedayglass.com. The baffle board is fragile. Avoid loading the stove up to the tubes and it should last a long time.


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## D8Chumley (Feb 16, 2015)

Welcome to the forum! I have had my Manchester for the same amount of time and burn 24/7 for approximately 5 months a year and haven't had any of those issues. Maybe I'm just lucky? I'll see what it looks like at the end of the season


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## TNTall (Feb 17, 2015)

Wise Guy said:


> I have a few questions that I hope you folks won't mind addressing.
> 
> First, Izzyq, I am wondering if the comments made here by so many have been helpful to you?  Have you made a decision?  This week, as temps have fallen in Pennsylvania, I have had the opportunity to burn wood in the "Manny," as Woody Stover calls it.  I've been thinking about posting a short video of the Manny in action.  You and others might find that helpful.  I'm thinking of focusing on the re-burn and what smoke there is out the chimney.  When I first wrote to you, I explained what I think are some pros/cons about the Manny.  I can add another con: too much smoke escapes out of the front door when opened for reloading.  The manual states, "When opening the front door to reload or rearrange logs, it is advisable to open the door just a crack, pause for a moment then open the door completely....In addition, reloading on a bed of hot, red coals reduces smoking time..."  I have found that the operative word in all of this is the word, "reduces."  Yes, following this method "reduces smoking time," but it doesn't eliminate the smoking time.  I don't want to see any smoke escape.  I haven't been able to open the door without smoke escaping into my living room.  That rarely happened with that old steel construction Haughs stove I inherited from my grandparents.  I can say that I don't see that problem when I open the side door.  Guess which one I try not to use
> 
> Thanks in advance for your assistance with these questions.



I have a LOT of problem with smoke coming out of the front door of my Manchester when I open it. It makes it a pain to get a fire going because I can't open the front door to poke at it. The QuadraFire stove I had last was not like that... a log could be smoking like crazy in there, and it would all exhaust. I think the Manchester smokes like that because the front door is so big that it doesn't trap the smoke well enough. I am working with my dealer for a solution, but I don't expect one really. I think it's a design issue and not a manufacturing defect. I am debating whether to sell the stove and get a different one... I am not used to having the house smell like smoke so much.


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## D8Chumley (Feb 17, 2015)

I only load from the side door. The only time I open the front is to clean the stove and glass. Do you have this issue when side loading? Just curious as to why you load from the front, is side loading not an option?


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## TNTall (Feb 17, 2015)

D8Chumley said:


> I only load from the side door. The only time I open the front is to clean the stove and glass. Do you have this issue when side loading? Just curious as to why you load from the front, is side loading not an option?



There is just much better access from the front door - especially when I am loading a big log. I put logs in there a lot of times that won't even fit in the side door - especially when there are other logs already in the bottom. Even if it will fit, trying to stuff a 20"+ log in there is difficult from the side... i often open both doors for the big ones.

You are right though, it doesn't smoke much when only using the side door. It is just very limiting.


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## D8Chumley (Feb 17, 2015)

Gotcha. I use the side since the ash doesn't escape as much there compared to the front


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## rideau (Feb 17, 2015)

Just wondering why you need to open the door and poke around after you have loaded your stove?  Once I put my splits in the  box, I never have to open the door until I am ready to reload.  I doubt Hearthstone expects you to be opening the door at this stage.  Maybe determine why you are having to open the door and poke around to get a fire established, and correct that.


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## TNTall (Feb 17, 2015)

rideau said:


> Just wondering why you need to open the door and poke around after you have loaded your stove?  Once I put my splits in the  box, I never have to open the door until I am ready to reload.  I doubt Hearthstone expects you to be opening the door at this stage.  Maybe determine why you are having to open the door and poke around to get a fire established, and correct that.



Seriously?


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## rideau (Feb 17, 2015)

Yes.


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## Grisu (Feb 17, 2015)

Double yes. A log smoking as bad as you describe suggests the wood is not fully dry. Dry wood would easily turn into coals and would not need to be poked at. Have you tested the moisture content of your wood with a moisture meter on a fresh split surface?


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## TNTall (Feb 17, 2015)

LOL OK. 

Reloading can be the worst time. Opening the door for a few seconds could make the room or maybe the whole house smell like smoke.

So for anyone else who doesn't think it's ok for the stove to smoke when you open the door, I welcome your suggestion. Like I said, my last stove didn't smoke, and I heated the house with it for 12 years. Thanks.

The chimney was just cleaned. My dealer is coming out Friday to do a draft test, but I don't expect any problem with that either.

I do like the big door for viewing the fire and loading and cleaning, but I'm pretty sure the opening is too big to hold the smoke in. It's practically the whole broad side of the firebox.


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## gaildean (Feb 17, 2015)

I have been burning the same stove since November. The only issue I have had with the stove is the ash falls out when I open the front door, so I don't use it. Only to clean the glass. I am burning sugar maple, ash, and black walnut, the MC is around 18% on the maple which is what I have the most of. It had been 18 years since I last burned wood so I lurked around here and followed the recommendations of the members here. I try to reload at 250 degrees at the bottom of the flu collar. I have not had trouble with smoke smell in the house thank goodness or my wife would have a fit. I have had smoke when I open the front door as you say. My splits are pretty small so I don't really need to use the front door.


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## Woody Stover (Feb 18, 2015)

Great to see a few owners surfacing since reports have been few and far between. I'd be interested in hearing the sq.ft. that folks are heating, burn times, and how the stove runs. What's your chimney setup?  Do you find it easy to control the output of the stove? (I've never run tube stoves, but what I read here is that it's critical on a fresh load to be cutting the air before too much wood gets gassing, so you can control output and burn length.)


TNTall said:


> for anyone else who doesn't think it's ok for the stove to smoke when you open the door, I welcome your suggestion. Like I said, my last stove didn't smoke, and I heated the house with it for 12 years. Thanks


This stove is probably a little different than what you had before. The box is wide and shallow, and with no bypass and the big front door, smoke spillage is more likely. But the big-window view is worth making allowances for, IMO.  With 20' of stack, you should have good draft. If you _must_ use the front door, try closing off all other air (side door and air control) to force the draft to pull into the front door stronger. Like others posters, I don't need to poke the fire and don't use the front door, just side-load it, close it, and work the air controls and cat bypass, then cruise until it's time to reload. If your wood has been split (not too huge) and stacked for a couple years (longer for the Oak and Hickory you have,) it will start right up when loaded on a coal bed, you don't have to coax it to burn. You may need some bigger splits to control the burn in your stove, but if you're leaving round logs unsplit, they take _really_ long to dry (maybe decades for Oak.)  Get way ahead on your wood supply, and the payoff is huge...burning wood becomes a joy instead of a chore. I tried to burn wet Red Oak for many years until I came here and got dry-wood religion...never going back. Now I'm burning 3-yr. Oak and Hickory, and lovin' it!


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## Wise Guy (Feb 21, 2015)

TNTall said:


> I have a LOT of problem with smoke coming out of the front door of my Manchester when I open it. It makes it a pain to get a fire going because I can't open the front door to poke at it. The QuadraFire stove I had last was not like that... a log could be smoking like crazy in there, and it would all exhaust. I think the Manchester smokes like that because the front door is so big that it doesn't trap the smoke well enough. I am working with my dealer for a solution, but I don't expect one really. I think it's a design issue and not a manufacturing defect. I am debating whether to sell the stove and get a different one... I am not used to having the house smell like smoke so much.


 

It's been a while since I've posted here on the forum, mostly due to being way too busy.  I would echo the same sentiment as that expressed by D8Chumley.  There are a few occasions when I do open the front door while there is fire in the box, but mostly I stick to opening the side door.  Nonetheless, I can report that I too get smoke pouring out if I open the front door during a burn, especially if I open the front door quickly.  I can reduce the smoke outpouring if I open the front door slowly.  I can also a reduce the smoke outpouring from the front door if I first open the side door slightly, and then open the front door.  See if this last trick helps, at least to reduce the smoke coming out the front door.


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## TNTall (Feb 21, 2015)

I got spoiled by being able to burn up as big a log as I could stuff in the box of my last stove, but the Manchester just isn't designed that way. Big logs only fit in the front door and do not burn up but usually just go out. I assumed the door would be usable for loading, but maybe that wasn't the intent. So I'm going to split up the logs smaller so I can only load in the side door. According to the information on this board, the wood should dry better anyway and require less attention to burn. It will be more work, but I'm sure my wife will appreciate the smaller logs compared to the logs now that she can hardly pick up LOL.


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## Wise Guy (Feb 21, 2015)

Woody Stover said:


> I'd be interested in hearing the sq.ft. that folks are heating, burn times, and how the stove runs. What's your chimney setup? Do you find it easy to control the output of the stove? (I've never run tube stoves, but what I read here is that it's critical on a fresh load to be cutting the air before too much wood gets gassing, so you can control output and burn length.)



Here's a snapshot of the setup I have using my Manchester.  I heat an old, drafty, two-story farmhouse built in 1910.  The stove is in the living room, on the first floor.  I keep two thermometers in the house, one in the dining room, which is next to the living room, and one in the kitchen, which is on the other side of the dining room.  The temp in the ding room stays somewhere between 70-76, depending on outside temps, and the kitchen stays somewhere between 60-65, depending on temps outside.  The temp in the living room is obviously above those temps, but not sure how far above.  As for burn times, I have always found that concept hard to understand.  Does it mean, the time when I begin to see the thermometer go down below a certain temp, or does it mean when I can't find anymore hot coals?  Or something else?  What I can say is that I burn far less wood with my Manchester than I did with my old steel constructed Haugh's stove.  How much less?  I am guessing here, but I think it is the neighborhood of about 2 chords less per year.  As for the chimney setup, the total length of the chimney is about 26 feet, with two 90 degree turns.  The first elbow is about 3 feet above the stove top and the second is about 3 feet from the first elbow.  The stack is about 20 feet.  I have no draft problems whatsoever.  As for controlling the output of the stove, I certainly can do that.   This is a major difference from the old stove I had.  I couldn't control the output and consequently, the stove over heated.


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## izzyq (Feb 25, 2015)

This is my second season with my Manchester and I LOVE this stove!  We have about an 1800 sq ft ranch and we burn just about 24/7.  I use the side door only for loading once it's lit but use the front door when I want to clean the glass (love that it's so big) and when I want to clean the stove out.  I don't have a problem with smoke coming out into the room UNLESS my wood is not good.  We ran lower than expected on good wood for this year (thankfully I have 5 cords stacked out back that will be ready for next season).  When I tried to use wood that I knew wasn't seasoned enough it was awful!  I saw all the problems everyone comes here complaining about when everyone tells them it's a problem with their wood.  Luckily we found a friend with a source for some real seasoned wood and were able to buy another 2 cords to get us through the season.  I couldn't appreciate the difference until I tried to burn without good wood!

Anyway we have a shorter chimney (1 story house and through the attic) but we lined the chimney this year and we have no draft issues.  We get overnight burns no problem with coals left in the morning to quick start it up again.  We are out of the house all day at work so most days I have to restart it when I get home after about 9 hours but the house is still in the 63-65 range.  I get my livingroom where the stove is up to 74 easily.  I love that the stove can take longer splits and using the side door I can fill it well and keep the house toasty overnight.


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## begreen (Feb 25, 2015)

Thanks for the quick review izzyq. It's good to know the Manchester is working well on a shorter chimney. How tall would you say the flue system is from stove top to chimney cap?


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## izzyq (Feb 25, 2015)

begreen said:


> Thanks for the quick review izzyq. It's good to know the Manchester is working well on a shorter chimney. How tall would you say the flue system is from stove top to chimney cap?



About a 13 ft chimney + 2 ft of double wall pipe from chimney down to stove top.


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## TNTall (Feb 25, 2015)

rideau and Grisu...
I apologize for my response to your suggestions about my wood being too wet. It sounds like I can get great performance out of the Manchester if I season the wood better, so that's what I'm going to try.


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## Woody Stover (Feb 25, 2015)

TNTall said:


> sounds like I can get great performance out of the Manchester if I season the wood better, so that's what I'm going to try.


I was too dumb to figure out how slow the Red Oak dried, and cutting for 3 households it was easy to procrastinate. But once I joined here and these guys straightened me out, I saw the benefits firsthand in my stove. That was all the motivation I needed to make dry wood a priority. 


TNTall said:


> I got spoiled by being able to burn up as big a log as I could stuff in the box of my last stove, but the Manchester just isn't designed that way. Big logs only fit in the front door and do not burn up but usually just go out.


That's a difference between the old and new stoves; The old ones will burn bigger/wetter wood by pulling a lot of air through the box and burning hotter. But as you saw, they will chew through a load in a few hours. The new stoves will burn with much less air, and also extract heat from burning the smoke with secondaries, so you get longer burns with less wood. But you need dry wood to be able to burn the load slowly with low air, and for the secondaries to work well, so you have to be ahead on your wood stacks to assure yourself good fuel...


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## hewhoeatspumpkins (Jan 5, 2016)

Hey guys, just got a new Manchester and was wondering where most of you were reading temps from. I have an IR thermometer and every single part of the stove reads a different temp. I know I can't read it from the stove top because of the air-flow system it has going on. On the other hand, should I just install a pipe thermometer (double wall) and just go by that? Thanks for your help!


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## D8Chumley (Jan 5, 2016)

hewhoeatspumpkins said:


> Hey guys, just got a new Manchester and was wondering where most of you were reading temps from. I have an IR thermometer and every single part of the stove reads a different temp. I know I can't read it from the stove top because of the air-flow system it has going on. On the other hand, should I just install a pipe thermometer (double wall) and just go by that? Thanks for your help!


I have single wall and a magnetic temp gauge about 16" up from the bottom. IIRC double wall you might need a gauge with a probe to measure inside temps? I like my Manchester a lot, I'm in my 3rd burning season with it and no issues other than I'd like to find an easier way to clean the ash out after I sweep the pipe.


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## Three stove operator (Jan 16, 2017)

The coals should not fall through the grate as the grate is suppose to be closed when burning. This may be your problem.  I have no issues with burning longer lengths of wood. But if you burn with the crate open, you will lose coals and you may over fire your stove.


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## D8Chumley (Jan 17, 2017)

This is a year old thread... however the Manchester can't be burned with the grate open as you say. The Ash drawer wouldn't be able to close if the grate was slid forward to clean the ash out. I slide the grate forward and use a modified rake to move the ash back and forth to let it fall into the ash pan to be removed fwiw


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## electrathon (Jan 17, 2017)

D8Chumley said:


> This is a year old thread... however the Manchester can't be burned with the grate open as you say. The Ash drawer wouldn't be able to close if the grate was slid forward to clean the ash out. I slide the grate forward and use a modified rake to move the ash back and forth to let it fall into the ash pan to be removed fwiw


Yes, with the grate in the open position it will not allow the ash door the shut, there is a bracket that keeps the door open.  Even so, if the grate was able to be open, very little falls through without stirring it around.  I pulled the ash shaker grate out of mine, it really serves no purpose.  If my stove was hot you could not get the grate to slide open, had to wait till it cooled.  With the grate removed I still have to stir the ash with the poker if I want to pull the ash pan to clean it.  I usually just shovel it out. 

To the original topic:  If I was going to buy a new stove, a Hearthstone stove would not be on the list of possible choices.  It burns way too much wood and puts out way too little heat.  It is pretty though.


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## pclafferty (Oct 19, 2017)

begreen said:


> Looking through the top slot, the Manchester stove top appears to have deep convective finning on the top. Is that correct? If so that is a whole lot more heat exchanging surface area than usual for a wood stove.
> 
> Having a trivet (lattice) top that is moveable is a strong selling point for me. Even our old 602's lattice top is removable for cooking. I like to have my stove top thermometer on the stove top. And I like having the option to cook on the stove top.



can you cook on the Manchester stove?? We are considering buying one. It's between the Manchester and the quadra-fire explorer iii.


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## pclafferty (Oct 19, 2017)

Those of you who own the Manchester, would you recommend me purchasing this? I want the ability to open-view as well as the possibility of cooking when electricity goes out since we live in the mountains. Thanks so much!!


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## begreen (Oct 19, 2017)

The Manchester has a convection top. This would be ok for slow cooking, but not ideal if you need direct stovetop contact for higher heat. The Explorer III has a top-load lid for direct contact and higher cooking temp if needed. @webfish can tell you a bit more about this feature and stove top temps there.


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## webfish (Oct 21, 2017)

I have not cooked on mine. We are supposed to get cold next week. I can take a temp reading on the top.


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## webfish (Nov 1, 2017)

pclafferty said:


> Those of you who own the Manchester, would you recommend me purchasing this? I want the ability to open-view as well as the possibility of cooking when electricity goes out since we live in the mountains. Thanks so much!!



@pclafferty 

I took top stove temps this morning as I got a pretty good fire going. Stove top is running about 430 degrees. So easily could cook on it. It will settle back down as I turn back air.  Hope this helps . I do love this stove. Easy to use and looks great.


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## dkates (Feb 18, 2018)

Bought the Manchester 4 years ago and within 2 years had to replace the side door latch.  The plate that slides on the inside of the door also warped and causes the bolts that hold it in place to back out and, if you don't carefully watch them, fall out; in which case the side door become unusable until you (find) replace the bolts.   About 2 days ago, the front door latch also broke.  In both cases, the shaft that passes through the door breaks off.  The replacement part, depending on the door, lists at between $150 - $225.  Assuming you can get the shaft out of the door handle you won't have to buy the entire handle/latch set up.  This time, the shaft will not come out of the handle in which case I am going to have to spend another $35 for the handle.  

Although the stove burns well, I am VERY dissatisfied with this stove.  I would not expect to be replacing parts already.  Would never buy another Hearthstone product.  The stove we replaced with this one was in place for over 30 years without any parts "breaking off."  For the money we paid for this stove, I expect more than this.  Until I can get the replacement part, we have a 4 year old,  $3000+ stove setting in our beautiful log home with vice grips sticking out of the front door holding the door closed.  Just a matter of time until we have to replace the entire side door assembly also.


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## Woody Stover (Feb 18, 2018)

Yeah, it's not right that the handles didn't hold up better than that. I would be looking at techniques of closing the doors to minimize stress on the handles. They ain't cheap either, are they? 
What is the "warped plate?" In the diagrams, it looks like a heat shield. If that's the case, I'd just remove it, put on the ear protection, and beat it flat with a rubber mallet. Why do you think you will have to replace the door assembly?
Yeah, I'm a DIY guy to a degree, so I try to figure out problems and remedy them. But I understand that this isn't everyone's cup of tea, and that when you shell out that kind of money, you want a quality item that you don't have to mess with too much. Obviously there's a certain amount of stuff you're gonna have to do when you burn wood..comes with the territory.


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## dkates (Feb 18, 2018)

Woody Stover said:


> Yeah, it's not right that the handles didn't hold up better than that. I would be looking at techniques of closing the doors to minimize stress on the handles. They ain't cheap either, are they?
> What is the "warped plate?" In the diagrams, it looks like a heat shield. If that's the case, I'd just remove it, put on the ear protection, and beat it flat with a rubber mallet. Why do you think you will have to replace the door assembly?
> Yeah, I'm a DIY guy to a degree, so I try to figure out problems and remedy them. But I understand that this isn't everyone's cup of tea, and that when you shell out that kind of money, you want a quality item that you don't have to mess with too much. Obviously there's a certain amount of stuff you're gonna have to do when you burn wood..comes with the territory.


Been burning wood for over 30 years and never had this much trouble with a stove.  Didn't pay that kind of money to exercise my "do-it-yourself" skills.


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## D8Chumley (Feb 18, 2018)

Mine is still doing it’s job after 4 years. The side door handle does look a little “off” but still working. No issues with the warped plate. Maybe mine was built on a Wednesday


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## Woody Stover (Feb 18, 2018)

dkates said:


> Been burning wood for over 30 years and never had this much trouble with a stove.  Didn't pay that kind of money to exercise my "do-it-yourself" skills.


I guess you're not gonna answer any questions about the other alleged problems besides the handles, then...


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## dkates (Feb 18, 2018)

Woody Stover said:


> I guess you're not gonna answer any questions about the other alleged problems besides the handles, then...


Which problems?


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## D8Chumley (Feb 18, 2018)

Re-read post #127 for the questions he is referring to. I had one small issue with the plate on the door binding at the beginning of this season, but I think the wife tried to jam the door shut on a split that wasn’t in straight. I got it fixed and haven’t had any issues since


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## blacktop37 (Feb 18, 2018)

I thought they had a lifetime warranty on parts from hearthstone


dkates said:


> Bought the Manchester 4 years ago and within 2 years had to replace the side door latch.  The plate that slides on the inside of the door also warped and causes the bolts that hold it in place to back out and, if you don't carefully watch them, fall out; in which case the side door become unusable until you (find) replace the bolts.   About 2 days ago, the front door latch also broke.  In both cases, the shaft that passes through the door breaks off.  The replacement part, depending on the door, lists at between $150 - $225.  Assuming you can get the shaft out of the door handle you won't have to buy the entire handle/latch set up.  This time, the shaft will not come out of the handle in which case I am going to have to spend another $35 for the handle.
> 
> Although the stove burns well, I am VERY dissatisfied with this stove.  I would not expect to be replacing parts already.  Would never buy another Hearthstone product.  The stove we replaced with this one was in place for over 30 years without any parts "breaking off."  For the money we paid for this stove, I expect more than this.  Until I can get the replacement part, we have a 4 year old,  $3000+ stove setting in our beautiful log home with vice grips sticking out of the front door holding the door closed.  Just a matter of time until we have to replace the entire side door assembly also.


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## Woody Stover (Feb 19, 2018)

dkates said:


> Which problems?





dkates said:


> Just a matter of time until we have to replace the entire side door assembly also.





Woody Stover said:


> What is the "warped plate?" In the diagrams, it looks like a heat shield...Why do you think you will have to replace the door assembly?


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## dkates (Feb 19, 2018)

Haven't had any other problems other than the doors and the heat shield.  It has become so warped that I have difficulty keeping the bolts in it without tightening it down so much that the door will not open or close. 

Regarding the warranty, I just found out that there is a 5 year warranty on the doors and 10 years on the cast iron.  2 years ago, after owning the stove for 2 years, I approached the dealer about the first door problem and he told me it was not covered.  I should have checked the warranty myself but didn't, so I paid for replacement parts not knowing it was covered.

I left a negative review on the stove on social media, and in Hearthstone's defense, they did get back to me about it.  That's when I found out the items should have been covered by warranty.  They, however, referred me back to the dealer.  I am going to pursue these door issues aggressively with the dealer and if nothing is done on his part, I will see how well the manufacturer stands behind it's product.  Either way, this should not have been an issue with a stove this expensive.


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## TNTall (Feb 20, 2018)

dkates, My side door has a warped plate and bolts backing out too. Now that the burning season is almost over, I guess I'll be disassembling that to see if I can remedy it. I'll check my handles and latches to see if they are failing too. Maybe I can do some preventative maintenance. I agree though that this shoudn't be necessary yet. If a stove this expensive can't go more than a few years, it is not cost effective to even burn wood at all.

As far as heating and other functionality goes, so far I'm very happy with the stove now that I have very dry wood to burn. I learned that it is more sensitive to moisture content than other stoves. This year I put a damper on my flue to extend burn time.


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## begreen (Feb 20, 2018)

TNTall said:


> dkates, My side door has a warped plate and bolts backing out too. Now that the burning season is almost over, I guess I'll be disassembling that to see if I can remedy it. I'll check my handles and latches to see if they are failing too. Maybe I can do some preventative maintenance. I agree though that this shoudn't be necessary yet. If a stove this expensive can't go more than a few years, it is not cost effective to even burn wood at all.


This should be a warranty issue. Contact the dealer.


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## billfred (Feb 22, 2018)

For those with the Manchester, or any stove, is the blower option worth it?   
Stove will be in my family room with bedrooms upstairs.  


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## sardo_67 (Oct 11, 2019)

i'll bring this back from the dead since google brought me here....



after all these years how does this stove hold up to other newer offerings?  i was looking at getting one of these to use until my indoor wood boiler system is fished

also that new 2020 "TruHybrid" they are advertising with like 24+ hour burn times, too good to be true?


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## Woody Stover (Oct 11, 2019)

sardo_67 said:


> also that new 2020 "TruHybrid" they are advertising with like 24+ hour burn times, too good to be true?


Probably a stretch. Mfgrs many times use a very liberal interpretation of what "burn time" is. Is it until the stove is stone-cold? Not in actual use, it's not..you will be reloading much sooner than that. Or it's "Blaze King" burn time, where the stove is set so low that it's putting out virtually no heat..not useful all year in a climate with cold winters.
There are only so many BTUs in a load of wood. But a cat stove burning low may be able to extract more of those BTUs into the room, instead of sending them up the flue. I just got my SIL a PE T5 (secondary-burn stove) so it'll be interesting to see how much heat it is capable of keeping in the house.
Now, I read from more than one person that went from a Woodstock Fireview (straight cat) to a PH (hybrid,) that they felt the PH was getting more heat out of a set amount of wood, so maybe the Hearthstone hybrid would be fairly efficient, and might get decent burn times. But these are new, unproven hybrid systems, unlike the Woodstock or Regency, so the jury is still out. Probably the best guy to evaluate some of the new stoves would be @webby3650, and I think his shop carries Hearthstone IIRC.


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## Woody Stover (Oct 11, 2019)

sardo_67 said:


> i was looking at getting one of these to use until my indoor wood boiler system is fished


Would you keep the wood stove online after the boiler is working? Seems like a waste of money if not. You could get a used stove for temporary use, if you think you can evaluate a used unit for overfire damage, etc..


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## sardo_67 (Oct 11, 2019)

Woody Stover said:


> Would you keep the wood stove online after the boiler is working? Seems like a waste of money if not. You could get a used stove for temporary use, if you think you can evaluate a used unit for overfire damage, etc..



i have a local used one for 1200 or so, i would keep the stove for later use anyway or maybe i'll just give up on the wood boiler, honestly not too sure.  I currently have a crappy Ashley wood/coal circulator now but want to heat 98% of the time with wood once i run out of the 120 gallons of free coal i got with the stove.  

Also yes i would use a T fitting to attack the wood boiler into the chimney so i can keep the wood stove hooked up for back up or other issues, even for a quick cold snap where i want some heat in under an hour where as the wood boiler will take a while to fully come up to temp


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## Woody Stover (Oct 11, 2019)

sardo_67 said:


> i have a local used one for 1200 or so, i would keep the stove for later use anyway or maybe i'll just give up on the wood boiler, honestly not too sure.


That would work, assuming the house layout is conducive to moving heat from the stove room to other areas where it's needed.


> i would use a T fitting to attack the wood boiler into the chimney so i can keep the wood stove hooked up for back up or other issues, even for a quick cold snap where i want some heat in under an hour where as the wood boiler will take a while to fully come up to temp


OK, but they wouldn't both be connected to the same _flue,_ just the same chimney with different flues, right?


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## fire_man (Oct 11, 2019)

Woody Stover said:


> Now, I read from more than one person that went from a Woodstock Fireview (straight cat) to a PH (hybrid,) that they felt the PH was getting more heat out of a set amount of wood, so maybe the Hearthstone hybrid would be fairly efficient, and might get decent burn times. But these are new, unproven hybrid systems, unlike the Woodstock or Regency, so the jury is still out.



Count me as someone that moved from the FV to Progress and get more heat from less wood. I liked the fireview but  love the Progress.


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## Woody Stover (Oct 11, 2019)

sardo_67 said:


> i have a local used one for 1200 or so,


So what's the story on the stove..someone you know?


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