# Chainsaw cutting sideways... well at least not straight



## shawneyboy (Jun 17, 2011)

I have a question that I hope someone has some insight.  My chainsaw wants to cut with an agle to the left.  Meaning even when I am 100% sure I am perpendicular to the ground by the time I get through a 8 inch or so round I am about and inch or 2 to the left of start point. 

I am thinking it is either one of two things, neither of which I have cheked yet.  Either 1 the bar itself is worn more on the left side, or 2 and more likely I have sharper, or I suppose larger, left side kerf teeth than right and thus it is pulling the bar in that direction.  

Do you think I am correct in thinking this way, and is there anything else it could be?

Shawn


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## SolarAndWood (Jun 17, 2011)

Have you flipped the bar?


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## shawneyboy (Jun 17, 2011)

SolarAndWood said:
			
		

> Have you flipped the bar?



Yep, been there done that, well, about 2 or 3 cord ago, I am due for that, I guess, well overdue.

Shawn


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## lukem (Jun 17, 2011)

Your chain is doing that to you.  I can't explain how to fix though, but I'm sure someone will be along shortly who can.


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## Backwoods Savage (Jun 17, 2011)

shawneyboy said:
			
		

> I have a question that I hope someone has some insight.  My chainsaw wants to cut with an agle to the left.  Meaning even when I am 100% sure I am perpendicular to the ground by the time I get through a 8 inch or so round I am about and inch or 2 to the left of start point.
> 
> I am thinking it is either one of two things, neither of which I have cheked yet.  Either 1 the bar itself is worn more on the left side, or 2 and more likely I have sharper, or I suppose larger, left side kerf teeth than right and thus it is pulling the bar in that direction.
> 
> ...



Yes. 

Most times it is in the chain sharpening. However, I've also seen where someone thinks they are starting the cut straight but actually are starting on a bit of an angle. But I'll vote for the sharpening part. Also, it is good practice to flip that bar frequently. Good luck Shawn.


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## Gunks (Jun 17, 2011)

shawneyboy said:
			
		

> or 2 and more likely I have sharper, or I suppose larger, left side kerf teeth than right and thus it is pulling the bar in that direction.



In my experience, it's the uneven sharpening of the teeth, since I am not very good at sharpening the chain myself.  The problem goes away when I put a new chain on the saw.


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## spacecowboyIV (Jun 17, 2011)

If you are sharpening your own chain it is most likely your sharpening technique as Backwoods suggested.  You should get an even sharp edge all the way across each tooth, and it takes some practice to get the technique down (I know from experience).  Try sharpening again, work slowly and check each tooth as you go.  May also want to make sure you are using the correct angle


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## MarkinNC (Jun 17, 2011)

I flip the bar every time a change a chain.  I would pay a local shop to sharpen your chain so they can hopefully put some uniformity back into it with their grinder.  Does the bar need to be dressed?


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## Wood Heat Stoves (Jun 17, 2011)

I also flip the bar every time I have the chain sharpened. I take my chain to a shop to have it sharpened, even though I used to do it myself. The machine just does a better job for $5. I've never had the problem you're having doing these 2 things.


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## smokinj (Jun 17, 2011)

Either have a pro sharpen it to get you back to ground zero, or get it in a vise and take your time sharpening it right. When I was first starting to sharpen chains I was doing one drive link at a time....(then walk away) This keeps you fresh foucused and learn your reps! Once you get that down the Jump to 3 drives at a time.


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## Wood Duck (Jun 17, 2011)

I agree it could be the chain. I have trouble sharpening evenly - I have to really concentrate and even then I am a little off. I can deal with a little curve to my cuts, I just try to limit it to only a little. A pro sharpening usually fixes the problem.


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## cptoneleg (Jun 17, 2011)

Sharpening, does it everytime you don't get both sides the same, have it sharpened, and start over.


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## WES999 (Jun 17, 2011)

One thing not mentioned yet is check the fit of the chain drive links in the bar, if it is too loose the cut will not be straight.

I had a Homlite saw that cut crooked, the chain was a sloppy fit in the bar, I replaced the .050 gauge chain with a .058 gauge and that fixed it.

You may consider a file guide, I have one of these (see pic). I think it works well.

Also if your bar is worn you can true up the bar on a drill press.


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## mesuno (Jun 17, 2011)

I borrowed a saw a couple of weeks ago that did this. We checked the blade and you could tell just by eye that the teeth down one side were consistently shorter than the teeth on the other. We put it down to the guy sharpening unevenly - he thought he was stronger in one direction than the other, so the same number of strokes with the file was removing more metal on one side of the chain.

To fix it you need to find the shortest tooth and file every tooth down to the same length. A cheap set of calipers will help get it as close as possible.

To stop it happening again you need to adjust your sharpening technique to give a few extra strokes on your weaker side. 

The guy whose saw I used couldn't work out why my cuts were going wonky but not his at first, then we figured he must be naturally compensating. That said, quite a few of the logs he bucked with it don't sit square to the floor so he obviously wasn't compensating fully.


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## CTYank (Jun 17, 2011)

I've used the same Granberg file guide for 35+ yrs, with consistently excellent results- very consistent angles & ht. Whenever a problem like OP's occurs, that tells me that I hit something on one side of the chain. File that away, and it cuts straight again. Don't let it go on for long. If the chain's really hosed, grinding might even make sense, in the hands of a competent operator.

You can easily check relative heights of bar rails with a small combo square. Sit one "arm" on the rails, and check if other "arm" is parallel to bar.
A bench grinder can very quickly level the rails, using grinder's adjustable support to aim bar at center of wheel. Of course, grind very gently.


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## Woody Stover (Jun 17, 2011)

CTYank said:
			
		

> I've used the same Granberg file guide for 35+ yrs,


I just got a Granberg and am not real impressed with the build quality. Maybe your old one is built better, but mine has a bit of slop, both where the bar slides through and also in the hinge where the head pivots up and down. My old Oregon with a plastic head is tighter than this Granberg. I'm still able to get good results with the Granberg, I'm just sayin'...


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## woodsmaster (Jun 17, 2011)

sounds like the bar needs filed. With the chain off see if their is a burr on the edge of the bar. If so file flat, if not it's the chain. I file the bar about every time I change the chain.


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## Loco Gringo (Jun 18, 2011)

Put your bar in a vise and run a flat file prependicular to the bar and get it evened out . Post 12 may explain it better. After that lay it on a flat surface and make sure it lays PERFECTLY  flat. If not, you bar has a bend to it. Put it in the vise again and gently bend it straight a little at a time till it lays flat. Use a pair of pliers or just your hands. If youve ever gotten your saw in a bind and pulled on it or jerked on it you may have bent the bar itself. This can happen very easily. A bent bar cant cut straight even if its just a minor bend esp in a large log. Good luck.


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## chinkapin_oak (Jun 18, 2011)

Step 1: Grind the bar flat.
Step 2: File all the cutters on the side opposite the way the saw is curving.  So if it's curving to the left, sharpen the cutters on the right side, but don't touch the ones on the left.
Problem solved.


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## DanCorcoran (Jun 19, 2011)

I've noticed many times, when I see my cuts beginning to curve, it's because my chain has loosened up.  If I tighten the chain and give it a couple of hits with a file, it cuts straight again.  Not sayin' the other items don't cause crooked cuts, but this seems to be another, at least in my experience.


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## BrotherBart (Jun 19, 2011)

You are sharpening the teeth at a different angle on one side than you are on the other. Happens to lots of people. The best answer I have ever seen came from a former Mod here named Eric Johnson. Sharpen one side then turn the saw upside down and sharpen the other. You will use a consistent angle that way instead of turning the saw around. Try it. It works. It cured me from many years of being the one man "Gang That Couldn't Cut Straight.".


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## NCPABill (Jun 24, 2011)

chinkapin_oak said:
			
		

> Step 2: File all the cutters on the side opposite the way the saw is curving.  So if it's curving to the left, sharpen the cutters on the right side, but don't touch the ones on the left.
> Problem solved.



Money!  The right teeth are slightly bigger than the left, thus cutting more, and the right side "outruns" the left, creating the leftward cut.  Hit the right side with three or so strokes and see if that changes anything.


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