# Tools for Saw work! Husky' or saws in general.



## Sean McGillicuddy (Jan 21, 2013)

What type of tools are needed?
What compression tool?
What clutch tool?
Were can you find a 6" t-25 bit for drills?
Every one can participate!
Is there a list some were?
Should there be one in the stickies?
Thanks 
Sean


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## computeruser (Jan 21, 2013)

Buy this Wiha tool kit for starters: http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=WTK&CAT=







If you can find a T27 bit for a drill (Stihl is T27, not T25), do let us know.  But the t-handle one in the Wiha kit seems to work really well, even if a drill-mounted one might be a touch faster.  From there, a pressure/vac tester wouldn't be a bad idea.  A tachometer and compression tester could be added in, too.  If you end up needing a clutch tool, you can probably make one out of a junk socket for most saws with external clutches.


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## TreePointer (Jan 21, 2013)

When I put a new top end on my Makita 6401, I got that Baileys Wiha set mentioned above and the piston ring clamp set, too. Worked great.

*Piston Ring Clamp Set*

*Compression tester* for chainsaws needs to have a Schrader valve. Also at Baileys.

There are home methods to test spark, but a cheap *spark tester* is nice to have.

*Tachometer*: I've been using the DTI Fast-Tach lately.  A nice model.


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## TreePointer (Jan 21, 2013)

Some go by feel, but I use a* torque wrench* to tighten cylinder bolts. To get to the bolts, you often need a long torx bit. Wiha has some 6" bit sockets that do the trick:

http://www.wihatools.com/700seri/771Sockets.htm
(Or for use this with adapter: http://www.wihatools.com/700seri/745se152.htm)


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## TreePointer (Jan 21, 2013)

*Locking clamps* (aka hemostat) for pulling fuel lines and other hoses through tight areas.


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## TreePointer (Jan 21, 2013)

*Picks* for pulling small or thin parts (gaskets etc.)

*Telescoping magnet* for getting that screw/bolt out of the crankcase.  D'oh!


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## Boog (Jan 21, 2013)

I have found a "Piston Stop - Clutch Removal tool" to be particulary useful for removing clutches to clean them, and the oil pump area behind them.  I also get by with just one nice T27 "Tee handle" tool (and a 4mm allen one for 031AVs).  A pair of curved tweezers (or fine needlenose) also helps.  Everything else is just standard stuff off my workbench.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Piston-Stop...150?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c2f2ecb56


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## MasterMech (Jan 22, 2013)

How serious do you wanna get?  

I have a *small cordless screwdriver* that accepts 1/4" hex bits. The small impacting ones are even better.

Mine is a Snap-On CTS561 (it's a few years old now, still a champ). Really saves a lot of time with housings that are held together with a ton of screws. Your hands thank you at the end of the day.

I have Snap-On *T27 bits*, in 3" and 6" lengths, with 1/4" hex drive. They last a lot longer than cheapies and strip far fewer screws. I also hit screw heads that are filthy with a shot of compressed air to clear the drive before I try to remove it. Stihl also sells extended length driver bits in T27. Many dealers carry them for their techs. They are good quality but don't have a lifetime warranty. 
Pressure/Vac testers, the adapter and block off bplates to go with them are a must for anything beyond casual DIY work. As are a good* tach*, (mine is a Stihl EDT-7), and *compression tester* (mine is the Craftsman/Mity-Vac kit).

*Adjustable gap *spark tester. The neon light kind (which I like for other types of work) will give a positive result even if the plug isn't firing under compression.

*Air compressor* for clean-up and running small air tools. Cleaning a saw without one gets old real fast. Plus you _will_ use it around the house and on other jobs as well. Doesn't have to be big and bad either. Small units with a pancake or hot dog type tank work fine for inflating tires, moderate blow-gun usage, and quick bursts from an impact gun. I have a 26 gallon Craftsman professional compressor that is a bit small for my needs but does 80% of what I need with ease. Doesn't like my air drill or die grinder for more than a minute or two however. 

Clutch removal on most saws is best accomplished with a *3/8" impact* and deep socket. Most air compressors will run a 3/8" impact for the 5 sec burst it takes to bang off a stubborn clutch. There are great cordless electric units out there too. If you get saws that require special sockets/wrenches to remove them, aquire the tools. They pay for themselves quickly, even if you're only working on your own equipment. *Piston stops* are recommended but not absolutely necessary. Rope works well and I often use compressed air in the cyl.

*Small 1/4" drive torque* wrench for sure. Cylinder hold down bolts should be torqued. This is an absolute must if you work on other peoples' saws.

Get a *crank seal puller* tool. Unless you only work on your saws and are willing to chance screw-ups. Messing up 1 saw performing what is a very simple task with the right tool, will cost you much more than you'll pay for the tool.

*Parts washer* big enough to dunk an entire saw crankcase in (10-12 gallon _minimum,_ mine is a 20). Sooner or later you will get a saw that can't even see what brand or model it is until it gets a bath.

If you play with big, expensive saws, (60cc on up) then you might think about *tools to split cases*. This cannot be done properly without special tools that you either fabricate (a proper clutch-side splitter isn't hard to build if you're handy with a welder.) or buy. They will be $$ so don't worry about getting them right away unless you have a big job to do right off.


*THE MOST IMPORTANT ASPECT OF CHAINSAW REPAIR*

Make yourself a sharpening _expert._ Saws that leave your shop running well, with properly dressed bars and expertly sharpened chains, will do a helluva lotta advertising for you, the good kind.  Units that come in for simple tune-ups and adjustments can leave feeling like a whole-new machine.


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Jan 22, 2013)

Man    Will have to play lottery.
Great info , will need to get a compression tester.
Just cause the first question you guys ask is what is the compression!!


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## Halligan (Jan 22, 2013)

I probably have invested a minimum of $10,000 in hand tools over the past 20 years but still could not properly disassemble my saws if needed. So a month ago I went to Bailey's and ordered the Wiha tool kit, clutch tools for both my 346XP and 372XP and a compression tester. Up next wil be a tachometer and piston ring clamp set. I even went so far as to purchase a toolbox which I dedicated to chainsaw tools and parts so I know everything is in one place when it's "saw time".


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Jan 22, 2013)

He who dies with the most tools win


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## MasterMech (Jan 23, 2013)

Sean McGillicuddy said:


> Just cause the first question you guys ask is what is the compression!​


 
Saves a lot of time & frustration.  Lots of saws/trimmers/blowers come in with "carb problems" and wind up being shy in the compression readings.  You can fart around with that carb all day, replace it, and the engine still runs like crap. Compression test is easy, inexpensive, and tells you in about 5 minutes if you're wasting your time or not.


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Jan 23, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> Compression test is easy, inexpensive, and tells you in about 5 minutes if you're wasting your time or not.


So were to get a decent priced Compression tester?
Check local Sears not impressed To much $.
Will try an Auto Zone.
Sean


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## MasterMech (Jan 23, 2013)

Sean McGillicuddy said:


> So were to get a decent priced Compression tester?
> Check local Sears not impressed To much $.
> Will try an Auto Zone.
> Sean


This is the same set I own, I paid about $50 for it 10 years ago.

http://www.tooltopia.com/mityvac-mv5530.aspx

^^ A really nice site for tool junkies like me.  Order $100+ and it ships free.


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Jan 24, 2013)

MasterMech said:


>


Special order around $70 @ Auto Zone.


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## mikefrommaine (Jan 24, 2013)

Advance auto has an OTC kit for 70. But you can get 25 off of 70 with coupon code a124. Or 15 off 100 and a 50 store credit with code ja21.


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## MasterMech (Jan 25, 2013)

Sean McGillicuddy said:


> Special order around $70 @ Auto Zone.


 
I take it you're avoiding online purchases?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002WSC0G/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&seller=

$64 shipped.


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Jan 26, 2013)

Hard to sneak them into the tool box that way.


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## MasterMech (Jan 26, 2013)

Mine complains about tool purchases and I look at her and ask "You did marry a mechanic, right?".


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## Mischa Shashumshkavich (Jun 12, 2014)

computeruser said:


> Buy this Wiha tool kit for starters: http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=WTK&CAT=
> 
> 
> 
> ...


.....well, i just read this older post(at work) and did a stock check, i found some APEX T27 bits in our ''non-stock'' items....about 1" long.....would work nice in a magnetic bit holder.....bit holder may not fit into tight spots tho


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## TreePointer (Jun 12, 2014)

Mischa Shashumshkavich said:


> .....well, i just read this older post(at work) and did a stock check, i found some APEX T27 bits in our ''non-stock'' items....about 1" long.....would work nice in a magnetic bit holder.....bit holder may not fit into tight spots tho



You're right about the tight spots.  For removing covers and similar parts, any torx bit or driver should get the job done; however, the longer bits (like 6") are needed to go through the length of the cylinder to reach cylinder bolts.


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## Jon1270 (Jun 13, 2014)

Mischa Shashumshkavich said:


> .....well, i just read this older post(at work) and did a stock check, i found some APEX T27 bits in our ''non-stock'' items....about 1" long.....would work nice in a magnetic bit holder.....bit holder may not fit into tight spots tho





TreePointer said:


> You're right about the tight spots.  For removing covers and similar parts, any torx bit or driver should get the job done; however, the longer bits (like 6") are needed to go through the length of the cylinder to reach cylinder bolts.



Here's what you want.  I bought a pack of the same ones last year, kept a couple and resold the others.  They're good quality and cheap.


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## Mischa Shashumshkavich (Jun 13, 2014)

Jon1270 said:


> Here's what you want.  I bought a pack of the same ones last year, kept a couple and resold the others.  They're good quality and cheap.


thanks....im'a take a looksie for some 6"  T27's.....if i can't find any, i'll check your link....


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## Jon1270 (Jun 13, 2014)

Sure.  I've also been wanting to pick up a similarly long 4mm Allen bit for working on Husqvarna saws.  The only source I've found sells them 10 at a time, so if I do get them I'll have extras again, in case anyone is interested.


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## TreePointer (Jun 13, 2014)

I love T-handles for removing tough fasteners, but I've actually broken a cylinder bolt with one while installing a cylinder.  That's why I use a torque wrench with a long torx bit on cylinder bolts, as I mentioned earlier:



TreePointer said:


> Some go by feel, but I use a* torque wrench* to tighten cylinder bolts. To get to the bolts, you often need a long torx bit. Wiha has some 6" bit sockets that do the trick:
> 
> http://www.wihatools.com/700seri/771Sockets.htm
> (Or for use this with adapter: http://www.wihatools.com/700seri/745se152.htm)



I haven't used those Irwin torx bits, so I can't attest to their quality and fit.  I have been pleased with the Wiha bits I've used.


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## Jon1270 (Jun 13, 2014)

I've been tempted to pick up a torque wrench, too.  I have a big Snap On for automotive purposes, but nothing suitable for chainsaw-scale work.  Sadly the only adjustable T-handle torque wrench I've found tops out at 8 Nm, which is a bit low.


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## Mischa Shashumshkavich (Jun 13, 2014)

we got some where i work.....but i don't know what the #'s mean.....it has engraved cn.m  with 40 thru 300....made by Kanon....i'm guessing that those #'s mean pounds? they're pretty small,and take hex head bits......oooof, i just looked up price for new, they want $190.00.......for a wrench.....


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## Jon1270 (Jun 13, 2014)

Well, nm means newton-meters, which is a metric unit for measuring torque.  I believe cn.m means centi-newton meters, or hundredths of a newton meter.  40-300 cn.m would be for torquing very small screws, and not nearly strong enough for cylinder heads.


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## TreePointer (Jun 13, 2014)

Most chainsaw fasteners I've encountered are around 8-15 N-m.  That high end happens to be near the center range of torque for this Craftsman torque wrench:

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-...p-00931423000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3

A T-style torque wrench would be optimal but my Craftsman Micro-Clicker model gets the job done on my chainsaw cylinder bolts.


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## Mischa Shashumshkavich (Jun 13, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> Most chainsaw fasteners are around 10-15 N-m.  That happens to be the center range of torque for this Craftsman torque wrench:
> 
> http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-...p-00931423000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3
> 
> A T-style torque wrench would be optimal but my Craftsman Micro-Clicker model gets the job done on my chainsaw cylinder bolts.





Jon1270 said:


> Well, nm means newton-meters, which is a metric unit for measuring torque.  I believe cn.m means centi-newton meters, or hundredths of a newton meter.  40-300 cn.m would be for torquing very small screws, and not nearly strong enough for cylinder heads.


ahhhhh ha, yeah, we use em on very tiny screws where the torque has to be precise


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## Mischa Shashumshkavich (Jun 13, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> Most chainsaw fasteners I've encountered are around 8-15 N-m.  That high end happens to be near the center range of torque for this Craftsman torque wrench:
> 
> http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-...p-00931423000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3
> 
> A T-style torque wrench would be optimal but my Craftsman Micro-Clicker model gets the job done on my chainsaw cylinder bolts.


that looks like one we use every now and again, i think made by SK, this one has more fig newtons and inch pounds of 25-to-250....i have a poulan saw i can ''practice'' on.....farthest i've got so far is removing the clutch and oiler, so i don't think i'm quite ready for a piston swap on a big boy.....yet


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