# Help!! Horrible back drafting furnace



## Hunter130 (Jan 4, 2018)

Hi all! 
New member here and unfortunately an unhappy one! I have a hotblast stove (1500) series I believe.. all the tags and decals are removed so I'm not 100% on the model. 
Any how, it is in the basement and no matter how hot the fire, when adding wood it blows huge clouds of smoke back into the room. Secondly, if not a hot burning fire, occasionally it will seep smoke through the vent in front door, on some occasions even out the dampener on the very bottom ash tray door. I am desperate to get a fix for it, and in dire need. I have tried adding 4' of chimney to the pipe(already 3' of peak of roof), also clean the chimney every year(it's never very dirty). I have opened windows, pretty much any trick I can figure out and cannot get it to stop. 

My fireplace in my living room, the next level above this furnace, does not have any draft issues what so ever. Any ideas of what I may be able to do?


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## Lawson111 (Jan 4, 2018)

Wet wood? Green wood? I to have been having this similar issue. I have found that when I (shut down) close the vents on the front blower and the knob on the ash pan my stove will get to air right and puff back. I have since open then vents more resulting in a hotter fire and my house being warmer but it’s seemed to stop the back drafting.... for now. I also removed my chimney cap because it was just collecting so much creosote but I’m afraid when it gets windy I the next day or two i might have to put cap back on. One more thing to check... is your ashes cleaned out so you can supply enough air under the fire to keep it going even with the knob on the door open?


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## Lawson111 (Jan 4, 2018)

https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/prevent-puffback-aka-flashback/

This also helped me understand why and what was going on when it happened. Good info here


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## Hunter130 (Jan 4, 2018)

Yes, burning very dry elm, and mixing locust and walnut with it. Seasoned and dry. Also, I should add that the vents are open fully pretty much always


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 4, 2018)

are you absolutely sure your stove pipe and/or chimney are not plugged.....possibly by an animal nest?


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## Hunter130 (Jan 4, 2018)

I am not, going to find out tommorow, however, it has always been a problem while opening stove door to feed wood, even immediately after a fresh clean chimney. Also, it has gotten so bad that if I open the bottom ash tray door, it will actually cause smoke to push through the vent on the main door of the stove as well. Which is extremely strange to me because I should only be increasing draft by opening that door, correct?


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 4, 2018)

yeah, it would increase draft if you have a draft to increase.  Seems to me something is plugged somewhere.


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## Hunter130 (Jan 4, 2018)

Jrhawk9, that's definitely what it seems like. I guess I will know tommorow, however it has always been bad about smoking while opening the door to feed wood.. like burn you're eyes and stink you're clothes bad... I wonder about The way the pipe is ran? It comes out the back of the stove approx 1', then 90's up 3', then 90's again, followed by approx 3' horizontal before going out and up the chimney.


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## taylorfarms (Jan 4, 2018)

does your fan run off of plenum temp or is it on all the time?  we had a furnace in our shop when I was younger that was a smoky beast, that just had a fan that we switched on.  when it got cold we were removing too much heat from the fire to overcome our poorly drafting chimney.  It is a vicious cycle lower flue temp makes less draft, less draft makes less fire, less fire makes lower flue temp.  this also plugs a marginal chimney even faster. 

we finally put a temperature switch on the plenum that turned the fan off and on, then finally put a smaller fan on that seemed to eliminate the constant on and off cycling.


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## Lawson111 (Jan 4, 2018)

You said you added chimney length so I’m assuming it’s a double wall insulated chimney. Is one of the joints loose? Leaking? Seems odd to have one stove with no draft issue and another one in the house have issues. How close are the chimneys to each other?


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## jatoxico (Jan 4, 2018)

New problem?


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## Hunter130 (Jan 5, 2018)

The blowers are ran by a on stove thermostat. They kick on when hot/off when cold. Yes it is a double wall insulated chimney, I do not believe any of the joints are loose or letting air/smoke escape on the outside. It appears to be pretty straight and also whenever a fire is going, even if it's smoking out my dampeners on the door, the chimney will be rolling smoke out the top like normal


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 5, 2018)

Hunter130 said:


> Jrhawk9, that's definitely what it seems like. I guess I will know tommorow, however it has always been bad about smoking while opening the door to feed wood.. like burn you're eyes and stink you're clothes bad... I wonder about The way the pipe is ran? It comes out the back of the stove approx 1', then 90's up 3', then 90's again, followed by approx 3' horizontal before going out and up the chimney.



I would eliminate the 90's and put some 45's.  This will make your 3' piece at a 45 and not horizontal.


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## cumminstinkerer (Jan 5, 2018)

Hunter130, You summed it for me in the description of how you flue/piping is. you need to eliminate the 90's and go with say 45's and get that horizontal section out. Especially if the horizontal part is flat it will never draft well. Very bare minimum in three foot you need to come up like 6 inches. That horizontal section is acting like a blockage, remember that the smoke is rising due to the air temp difference, but in a horizontal run it really doesn't rise just becomes stagnant. If I remember correctly each 90 is the same as taking a foot of height off the chimney too. like I said take the 90's out go with 45's and get the pipe in between running up hill a lot more.


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## Hunter130 (Jan 5, 2018)

cumminstinkerer said:


> Hunter130, You summed it for me in the description of how you flue/piping is. you need to eliminate the 90's and go with say 45's and get that horizontal section out. Especially if the horizontal part is flat it will never draft well. Very bare minimum in three foot you need to come up like 6 inches. That horizontal section is acting like a blockage, remember that the smoke is rising due to the air temp difference, but in a horizontal run it really doesn't rise just becomes stagnant. If I remember correctly each 90 is the same as taking a foot of height off the chimney too. like I said take the 90's out go with 45's and get the pipe in between running up hill a lot more.


That is what my father in law suggested as well; however, how would I get the horizontal piece to not be horizontal as it goes through my block wall?


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## JRHAWK9 (Jan 5, 2018)

you need to limit the distance it's going horizontal.  There's a big difference between 6" going into your chimney thimble and 3 feet.


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## brenndatomu (Jan 5, 2018)

cumminstinkerer said:


> If I remember correctly each 90 is the same as taking a foot of height off the chimney too.


Make that 3' for each 90.

Put your 45 as close to the wall as possible...make the pipe through the wall the only horizontal section.

Also, how tall is the chimney? Is it a 6"?

 Have you ever tried cracking a window or door to the basement...see if that helps? If so then you need a source of outside air to makeup what the furnace is venting up the chimney...in other words, the house is too air tight. But even drafty houses can still pull a "vacuum" on the basement...make a chimney smoke back. 

Any new changes to the house? Air sealing, insulating? 

A vent fan running more now than before, or clothes dryer? These all compete for makeup air...


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## maple1 (Jan 5, 2018)

As always with threads looking for help - pictures can be quite helpful.


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## cumminstinkerer (Jan 5, 2018)

brenndatomu said:


> Make that 3' for each 90.
> 
> Put your 45 as close to the wall as possible...make the pipe through the wall the only horizontal section.
> 
> ...


Thank you, I couldn't remember for sure but I new it had a huge effect


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## cumminstinkerer (Jan 5, 2018)

Hunter130, that does become an issue, about the only thing you can do there is enlarge the hole and at least get it angled up as much as possible then Hydraulic cement back around the pipe to fill the bigger hole in,


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## Marshy (Jan 5, 2018)

Hunter130 said:


> Jrhawk9, that's definitely what it seems like. I guess I will know tommorow, however it has always been bad about smoking while opening the door to feed wood.. like burn you're eyes and stink you're clothes bad... *I wonder about The way the pipe is ran? It comes out the back of the stove approx 1', then 90's up 3', then 90's again, followed by approx 3' horizontal before going out and up the chimney.*


This could very well be your issue.  Are the horizontal pitched with at least 1/4" per foot of horizontal run?
Can you use two adjustable elbows, one at the back of the stove, the other at the chimney connection and run a continuous straight section between the two elbows? If yes then that is what i would do.
DuraVent makes double wall 6" and 8" diameter adjustable elbows.  I don't believe Silkirk makes as adjustable elbow. However most offer 45 and 30 degree fixed elbows. 
Do you know the maker of your flue connector between chimney and stove?


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## Hunter130 (Jan 5, 2018)

I don't know the maker... I will try to get a picture of it here shortly. Also, I should add that currently my ckeanout outside is open. I just talked to someone at a stove shop that suggested I cap that clean out off and see what happens. Fingers crossed that will work


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## Marshy (Jan 5, 2018)

Hunter130 said:


> I don't know the maker... I will try to get a picture of it here shortly. Also, I should add that currently my ckeanout outside is open. I just talked to someone at a stove shop that suggested I cap that clean out off and see what happens. Fingers crossed that will work


That is a huge issue to have it open. It draws cold air into the chimney and mixes with the hot flue gas. When the flue gas gets cold from the mixing it will kill your draft. Draft is generated from buoyancy effect the hot air has vs the outside ambient air. Not only do you need to close the clean out door but you need to seal it. I suggest you get some plumbers putty and make a bead all around the door and close it so the door squishes into the putty and makes an air tight seal.

How much distance is between your clean out door and where the thimble is that connects the stove to the chimney?

Some people have advised me in the past to take some unfaced fiberglass insulation and reach into the thimble and shove it below where the thimble enters the chimney. It theory it helps to separate the stagnant cold air below the thimble but above the clean out from cooling the flue gas. The only problem is that fiberglass insulation is combustible so it's not thst good of an idea.


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## Hunter130 (Jan 5, 2018)

To be honest, I'm not sure what the thimble is.


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## brenndatomu (Jan 5, 2018)

Hunter130 said:


> Also, I should add that currently my ckeanout outside is open. I just talked to someone at a stove shop that suggested I cap that clean out off and see what happens.


Ahhh,_ yeah_! That is 99.99% of the issue then!
Surprised it works at all!


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## maple1 (Jan 5, 2018)

Hunter130 said:


> I don't know the maker... I will try to get a picture of it here shortly. Also, I should add that currently my ckeanout outside is open. I just talked to someone at a stove shop that suggested I cap that clean out off and see what happens. Fingers crossed that will work



And, as also quite often happens - a 'by the way' slip of the tongue a few posts after the OP reveals the issue in loud living color.


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## Marshy (Jan 5, 2018)

Hunter130 said:


> To be honest, I'm not sure what the thimble is.


The part that goes through the exterior wall of the house. It is the horizontal connection to the chimney that is permanently fixed to the chimney.


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## Lawson111 (Jan 5, 2018)

Yea put that clean out cap back in. Is it a door or a plug type at the bottom of the tee that connects to the thimble( the piece that goes threw the wall) if it’s a plug/cap type that goes in the bottom of the tee mine has fell out before if I don’t tap it I’m will a hammer a little. There also should be little brackets that swing over when the plug is in that won’t allow it to fall out all the way. Well my Selkirk setup is this way not sure what brand chimney you have.


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## Lawson111 (Jan 5, 2018)

I am actually going to get some inside stove pipe to change my interior set up. I to have pretty much the same setup you have where it 90s out of the stove goes vertical for about a foot then another 90 and about 2feet of horizontal pipe. After reading everyone’s comments on the horizontal runs I’m going to eliminate one of the 90s and 45 it right at my thimble and run the pipe from the 90 that comes out of the stove at a angle. Hopefully this helps my draft and creosote buildup out. I have a little issue with draft and creosote buildup in the spring and fall when it’s a little warmer out.


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## Hunter130 (Jan 5, 2018)

Here is interior pipe in question


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## cumminstinkerer (Jan 5, 2018)

Hunter130, not to be to critical but looking at the picture it looks like your thimble is either dead level or possibly reverse sloping, you really need to get the exit end ramped up as Marshy said a minimum of 1/4" per foot of run. More is always better of course, and like I posted earlier the only way you can really do that is to hog the hole in the block wall out and the cement it back around the pipe once you get it set where you need it.


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## maple1 (Jan 5, 2018)

That's a bit different than what I had pictured in my head from the description. Not sure you can change that setup much without moving the furnace, or shortening up that section of insulated stuff. I would likely try to work a T in there at the bottom, using one end of it for a cleanout - would make keeping things clean easier at least. Like, maybe, a T right off the furnace (pointing up & down with clean out cap on the bottom), then work in two 45's to replace the top 90. Sections of pipe in between to make things fit together.

Is that key damper closed though? Or partly? Hard to tell in the pic.

A pic of the cleanout & area would also likely be useful.


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## Marshy (Jan 5, 2018)

The pipe between the stove and the thimble appears to be single wall black stove pipe. Your elbows are adjustible.

I would try this immediately:

Put the adjustable elbow on the outlet of the stove and put the other on the thimble. Adjust them so they align and connect them with a straight run of pipe. You may need to cut a straight section to fit to length. 

You can buy single wall black stove pipe at nearly any hardware store. You will also need a good pair of tin shears. 

The gasses will have enough velocity to over come the restriction of the thimble even if it doesn't have the proper slope of 1/4" per foot.

I would reuse the straight section you have in the middle, just ditch the straight section of oujt the backnof the stove and you'll need to add length to the middle. Simple.


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## Lawson111 (Jan 5, 2018)

Very similar to my setup and I honestly only have issues on warmer windy days. I am going to try and eliminate the horizontal run when it warms up around here and I can shut the stove off. But I would fix your cleanout issue and go from there first before you change all that. Doesn’t seem like you have a lot of options without a lot of work.


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## sportbikerider78 (Jan 5, 2018)

Doesn't seem like that much work to me to completely change that setup.  Working with black pipe is crazy easy...and so is motar'ing that pipe back in place when he is done.  

6 beer job...max.


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## cumminstinkerer (Jan 5, 2018)

sportbikerider78 said:


> Doesn't seem like that much work to me to completely change that setup.  Working with black pipe is crazy easy...and so is motar'ing that pipe back in place when he is done.
> 
> 6 beer job...max.


agreed sportbikerider78, six beers, a hammer, a chisel, some mud, and a trowel all done


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## Hunter130 (Jan 5, 2018)

Thanks everyone for the help. I just picked up a cap for the clean out tee... upon cleaning I found that the interior single wall pipe was fairly dirty, the rest of the chimney was near spotless. As of now my therory is that the clean out was pushing cold air in resulting in a somewhat bottle up of smoke, resulting in creosote buildup in the interior single wall pipe.  Also, I always run the key dampener wide open.


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## maple1 (Jan 5, 2018)

Seems to me this cleanout situation is still kind of fuzzy to us - a pic would help.

Running with an open cleanout would mean that the top of the chimney is pulling all its draft up through the cleanout. Meaning that the stove isn't seeing any draft. And that whatever smoke is making it into the chimney is being turned to creosote pretty quick. A double whammy.

I don't think you really need to do anything to the stove pipe that is there, if you simply get the cleanout blocked. If I am understanding the situation correctly. And I still might not be.

EDIT: I would likely change it up though, just to make it easier to clean, if nothing else, adding a cleanout T at the bottom. Also from an above suggestion - if going to the store to get some new pipe, I would get new adjustable 90's also. I never have any luck trying to adjust those things after they have seen some use. Sometimes even when new they sometimes don't want to adjust the way you want.


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## Lawson111 (Jan 5, 2018)

X2 on the new adjustable elbows. I just had to buy some to change my setup. Like maple1 stated after they get dirty there darn near impossible to adjust them.


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## Hunter130 (Jan 5, 2018)

Okay got my clean out cap and of course it doesn't fit It is for dura tech pipe and mine is dura plus. I can't even find dura plus caps alone online? One problem after another


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## brenndatomu (Jan 5, 2018)

What happened to the old cap? They don't just blow away normally...


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## Marshy (Jan 5, 2018)

Lawson111 said:


> X2 on the new adjustable elbows. I just had to buy some to change my setup. Like maple1 stated after they get dirty there darn near impossible to adjust them.


My experience with the elbows has been the opposite. Maybe because my stoves are pre-EPA and keep them clean. If anything they losen up and need replacing after 3 years or so.


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## Marshy (Jan 5, 2018)

Lawson111 said:


> Very similar to my setup and I honestly only have issues on warmer windy days. I am going to try and eliminate the horizontal run when it warms up around here and I can shut the stove off. But I would fix your cleanout issue and go from there first before you change all that. Doesn’t seem like you have a lot of options without a lot of work.


Why people de code to install their chimney connector pipe like that baffles me. Thst horizontal run kills your draft. Its so easy, put the adjustable elbow at the wall and one on the back of the stove connect with a straight section of pipe. No double 90's and 3'of horizontal run. Sheeze. LoL


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## maple1 (Jan 5, 2018)

Marshy said:


> My experience with the elbows has been the opposite. Maybe because my stoves are pre-EPA and keep them clean. If anything they losen up and need replacing after 3 years or so.



Might come down to the quality of what's at your local store. We have basically the cheapest crappiest stuff here. I got one once that I couldn't budge at all, thought it was welded together. Must have been all pinched closed tight when it was put together. The stainless ones that were used when my boiler was originally installed in 1996 were great even 17 years later.


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## Lawson111 (Jan 5, 2018)

Marshy said:


> Why people de code to install their chimney connector pipe like that baffles me. Thst horizontal run kills your draft. Its so easy, put the adjustable elbow at the wall and one on the back of the stove connect with a straight section of pipe. No double 90's and 3'of horizontal run. Sheeze. LoL



It was my first wood stove and I set it up the same way my father had his and he never had an issues... but his chimney was also 30ft tall. I got the stuff to change it just got to wait until I can shut the stove off and change it. High of -10 here tomorrow


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## Hunter130 (Jan 5, 2018)

I'm not sure what happen to the old cap, I purchased the house 2 years ago and there has not been one since I've purchased the house


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## Fred61 (Jan 5, 2018)

They started installing thimbles with a slight angle toward the chimney back in the 70's when air tight stoves started to become popular in order for the dripping creosote to stay within the chimney and not flow out into the living space. A correctly built chimney should have no problem overcoming any loss of draft. It's not in there at so much of an angle so that the smoke has to go down. Some old time masons refused to do it because their fathers' told them that smoke had to go up.


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## Fred61 (Jan 5, 2018)

Hunter130 said:


> I'm not sure what happen to the old cap, I purchased the house 2 years ago and there has not been one since I've purchased the house



That's your problem


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## Hunter130 (Jan 5, 2018)

Alrighty guys, here's the verdict, I took apart the chimney, cleaned it very throughly, then added a redneck cap to the clean out T. The cap I bought (tractor supply crimped 6" cap) was slightly larger than my duraplus piping. Soo, I removed the cap from the crimped piece; and got it wedged up in there with a piece of steel; so I'm sure it's not 100% sealed up but is better.. now, I started the fire, had a small amount of smoke come out while starting (it was expected due to extreme cold) then once fire got started, it seemed to be all good to go. However, once I got a full load of wood in the furnace, it started smoking out the door again when you open it. Not just a light smoke but a kind of blow it in you're face. Still better than before, but not 100% yet


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## jatoxico (Jan 5, 2018)

Aside from sealing up the clean out well since you have a basement install it may help to do some air sealing upstairs especially in the attic. Got a leaky set of attic stairs?


Search/Google stack effect.


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## Fred61 (Jan 5, 2018)

How long had it been burning before you opened the door? Was the fire hot and burning long enough to warm the chimney? Did the cobbled up cap fall off? 

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk


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## brenndatomu (Jan 5, 2018)

Hunter130 said:


> it started smoking out the door again when you open it. Not just a light smoke but a kind of blow it in you're face


Its not uncommon to have this happen...one thing that helps is to crack the door, leave it for 30 seconds or so, then slooooowly open the door. If you just walk up and rip the door open while there is active fire still, that will get you smoke in your face on many basement installs...reworking the stovepipe as discussed earlier will help reduce this problem also...


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## Hunter130 (Jan 5, 2018)

brenndatomu said:


> Its not uncommon to have this happen...one thing that helps is to crack the door, leave it for 30 seconds or so, then slooooowly open the door. If you just walk up and rip the door open while there is active fire still, that will get you smoke in your face on many basement installs...reworking the stovepipe as discussed earlier will help reduce this problem also...



I do open very slowly, generally crack the door for 5-10 seconds then slowly open.. also have tried opening near window and unfortunately same results. And for the other response, it had been burning about an hour. STove is hot as well as chimney pipe. And double checked the T cap, may possibly be getting a very very small amount of air there but certainly no significant amount if any


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## Lawson111 (Jan 5, 2018)

Chimney cap installed? If it try removing it. I know it’s not recommended but it may help with your draft. It helped me.


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## Hunter130 (Jan 5, 2018)

Nope no chimney stack, however I am thinking of buying one of the vacu stacks to see if maybe that would help improve the draft.


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## Lawson111 (Jan 5, 2018)

Try buying a meter that measures draft I’m not sure what they are called but I know someone on here does and there fairly cheap. Maybe something is wrong with the stove and not the chimney. Hopefully not but at least this will help you troubleshoot.


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## brenndatomu (Jan 5, 2018)

Lawson111 said:


> Try buying a meter that measures draft I’m not sure what they are called but I know someone on here does and there fairly cheap. Maybe something is wrong with the stove and not the chimney. Hopefully not but at least this will help you troubleshoot.


Manometer.
The Dwyer Mark II model 25 is a popular one with us wood burner types...and fairly inexpensive.
I had some NOS ones for sale, but they are gone now.


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## laynes69 (Jan 6, 2018)

You mentioned a fireplace, and also have your blowers on the furnace. If the fireplace is open (should be closed if not using) and your blowers are running on the furnace when you open it, you could have a bad negative pressure on the firebox. Also, when you open the door on the woodfurnace before the fire has burnt down to coals, it will smoke. For us, if I'm loading our furnace and taking my sweet time, I will shut off the blower and not an ounce of smoke will come into the house. However if the blower is running and I don't load in a timely manner, smoke comes out of the furnace.


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## sloeffle (Jan 6, 2018)

laynes69 said:


> For us, if I'm loading our furnace and taking my sweet time, I will shut off the blower and not an ounce of smoke will come into the house. However if the blower is running and I don't load in a timely manner, smoke comes out of the furnace.


I installed a switch on mine because I had the same problem. I always turn the power off to the furnace when loading because I don't want smoke in the house.


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## brenndatomu (Jan 6, 2018)

Yup, mines wired with a plug...I unplug it while loading for the same reason


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## Marshy (Jan 6, 2018)

You have a 1 foot horizontal piece right out the back of the stove. Is that pipe lower or higher than the top of the firebox door opening?

Just like electricity, smoke will follow the path of least resistance.


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## Fred61 (Jan 6, 2018)

Lots of good suggestions above from guys with experience but I did want to ask if there are any trees or other roofs in close proximity to the stack that may be higher than the stack outlet. Is the stack at least 2 feet higher than the ridgepole of your house?


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## Marshy (Jan 6, 2018)

Fred61 said:


> Lots of good suggestions above from guys with experience but I did want to ask if there are any trees or other roofs in close proximity to the stack that may be higher than the stack outlet. Is the stack at least 2 feet higher than the ridgepole of your house?


At least this...


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## maple1 (Jan 6, 2018)

Sounding like a broken record here - but pictures are worth, like, all kinds of words...


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## Hunter130 (Jan 7, 2018)

Yeah, I have at least 4, more like 5 feet over peak and no big trees


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## Lawson111 (Jan 7, 2018)

How close do these big trees have to be to affect draft?


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## Lawson111 (Jan 7, 2018)

Lawson111 said:


> How close do these big trees have to be to affect draft?



This to close?


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## maple1 (Jan 7, 2018)

Quite possibly. Wind direction might also play a part but sometimes hard to predict as swirling and weird stuff like that also usually happens.


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## laynes69 (Jan 7, 2018)

I would remove the manual damper, your chimney is awfully short, and compounded with the elbows in the flue pipe. While the manual damper may not seem like it's nothing, it is causing a restriction in the system. For every elbow in the system, there's a reduction in draft.


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## Lawson111 (Jan 7, 2018)

maple1 said:


> Quite possibly. Wind direction might also play a part but sometimes hard to predict as swirling and weird stuff like that also usually happens.



When the wind blows from in the direction where the tree would get hit First by the wind  so in my instance from the west, the smoke from my chimney ends being pushed low to the ground, like 6 foot off the ground then it with eventually dimisimsh and you can’t see it anymore but I’m wondering if the tree is causing this.

Well just because I have the capability of cutting this tree down. It will be down next weekend and we will see that the verdict is.


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## Marshy (Jan 7, 2018)

Lawson111 said:


> When the wind blows from in the direction where the tree would get hit First by the wind  so in my instance from the west, the smoke from my chimney ends being pushed low to the ground, like 6 foot off the ground then it with eventually dimisimsh and you can’t see it anymore but I’m wondering if the tree is causing this.
> 
> Well just because I have the capability of cutting this tree down. It will be down next weekend and we will see that the verdict is.


Yes, they would have thast effect on the wind/draft. You could try a chimney cap to reduce down draft.


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## Mrpelletburner (Mar 21, 2018)

Did you ever solve the issue?


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## brenndatomu (Mar 21, 2018)

OP has not been around here for almost a month...hopefully @Hunter130  will check back in with an update sometime...


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