# Season time for Douglas Fir



## SeattleRider (Aug 12, 2014)

I took some trees down around Feb of this year, so got them split and stacked at the same time.

Today I split some of the logs to check the moisture content, on the inside it is around 22% and outside is under 15%. The question is in another 2-3 months how much would the inside moisture reading drop down? Basically any chance of it getting under 15% .

Thanks!


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## BCC_Burner (Aug 13, 2014)

SeattleRider said:


> I took some trees down around Feb of this year, so got them split and stacked at the same time.
> 
> Today I split some of the logs to check the moisture content, on the inside it is around 22% and outside is under 15%. The question is in another 2-3 months how much would the inside moisture reading drop down? Basically any chance of it getting under 15% .
> 
> Thanks!




It doesn't need to be under 15% to burn well. In fact, I bet the equilibrium MC for split wood is between 14 and 16 percent in the Seattle area.  You will be good to go with that wood this winter.  People here like to proselytize about storing wood for 3, 4 or 5 years, despite the facts that few actually substantiate the claims and that 1-2 summers worth of seasoning is plenty for all but the slowest drying of species.


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## TMonter (Aug 13, 2014)

BCC_Burner said:


> It doesn't need to be under 15% to burn well. In fact, I bet the equilibrium MC for split wood is between 14 and 16 percent in the Seattle area.  You will be good to go with that wood this winter.  People here like to proselytize about storing wood for 3, 4 or 5 years, despite the facts that few actually substantiate the claims and that 1-2 summers worth of seasoning is plenty for all but the slowest drying of species.



Doug Fir will season in 4-6 months if split and stacked out of the weather. This is of course assuming that the trees are dead or standing dead when cut. Seems to take a few more months to season when green. A lot depends on your location but if you're in a place like me where the typical relative humidity is generally quite low, that does cut down on the time it takes. A lot also depends on the size of the splits you turn it into. My splits are generally pretty large for stacking and storing so I typically give a 1-2 years before burning.


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## Rossco (Aug 13, 2014)

I had problems with a particular Fir Snag grey back cut last year. The bottom 30" rounds where real sappy and snappy in the stove. 

The top half was fine. 

IDE give it 6 month dry time. I find logger left over rounds dry in about the same time.


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## Auzzie Gumtree (Aug 13, 2014)

BCC_Burner said:


> proselytize about storing wood


Love that word.... it all depends on wood type. I stack my wood very close together (too close) and leave it as long as possible. I am burning wood which has been cut and split for ~ 24 months and the difference between the 'softer' wood like pine and red wood to the hardwood gum is unbelievable. They have been stored for exactly the same amount of time in the same conditions in the same row etc... the softwoods are ready but the hardwood's probably need another year for optimum burn-ability.

If you have the room to leave out in the open then a good summer will do most softwoods whereas the gum hardwood's take at least twice as long (but you get twice the BTU's.)


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## TMonter (Aug 13, 2014)

Auzzie Gumtree said:


> Love that word.... it all depends on wood type. I stack my wood very close together (too close) and leave it as long as possible. I am burning wood which has been cut and split for ~ 24 months and the difference between the 'softer' wood like pine and red wood to the hardwood gum is unbelievable. They have been stored for exactly the same amount of time in the same conditions in the same row etc... the softwoods are ready but the hardwood's probably need another year for optimum burn-ability.
> 
> If you have the room to leave out in the open then a good summer will do most softwoods whereas the gum hardwood's take at least twice as long (but you get twice the BTU's.)



Has everything to do with wood density would be my best guess, but to be fair pine is one of the faster drying of the softwoods as well. I've noticed that Doug Firs that have a very tight grain and have been slow growing season much slower than larger fast growing trees.


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## Highbeam (Aug 17, 2014)

Green doug fir,processed in February,in this super dry year especially, will be good to burn this fall.


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## Bigg_Redd (Aug 17, 2014)

SeattleRider said:


> I took some trees down around Feb of this year, so got them split and stacked at the same time.
> 
> Today I split some of the logs to check the moisture content, on the inside it is around 22% and outside is under 15%. The question is in another 2-3 months how much would the inside moisture reading drop down? *Basically any chance of it getting under 15%* .
> 
> Thanks!



That depends on the weather, but, probably not.  The good news is you don't need to.  If your readings are accurate (always a big "if") your wood will burn just fine.  We live in God's country so don't drink the east coast koolaid


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## SeattleRider (Aug 17, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> That depends on the weather, but, probably not.  The good news is you don't need to.  If your readings are accurate (always a big "if") your wood will burn just fine.  We live in God's country so don't drink the east coast koolaid



This will be my first winter heating with wood all the way so just trying to be as educated about it as possible . Thank you for the responding much appreciated.


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## TMonter (Aug 18, 2014)

SeattleRider said:


> This will be my first winter heating with wood all the way so just trying to be as educated about it as possible . Thank you for the responding much appreciated.



I agree with Bigg_Redd, anything under 25% is going to do fine, but if you can get it under 20% all the better. Just remember to keep the top of your stacks covered during rain and snow and you should be fine.


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