# Huskee 22 ton splitter hydraulic filter



## muncybob (Apr 22, 2011)

The filter is plain white with no markings of brand/part#....unless I missed it, I don't see any info in the owers manual either?

Anybody know what Purolator or NAPA filter that will work? I'm doing the 5 hour oil change during the week(probably only 2+ hours) and want to pick up the filter while getting the oil.


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## jeff_t (Apr 22, 2011)

Might want to look at your manual again. Mine listed several different filter options. I'd post them if I could find it. 
Also try a search. This question has come up before.


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## TreePointer (Apr 22, 2011)

Hydraulic fluid filter discussion w/cross reference:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/70566/

My manual says to replace hydraulic fluid filter after first 25 hours, and then every 100 hours thereafter (or seasonally).


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## Intheswamp (Apr 23, 2011)

I have a tendency to copy/paste parts of things I find on the net, in forums, etc., into a word doc.  Here is some info I gathered a while back.  Some of these filters have slightly different specs than does the Cross (Huskee OE) but the first list below was provide by Kevin Greer, a knowledgeable and helpful customer service rep from SpeeCo.  The Baldwin filter I believe I found has the same mesh size as the Cross.

Hope this helps,
Ed

==============================================
Filter #s 

Fram 1653A
Napa 1553
Cross 1A9023 
Baldwin BT839
Wicks 51553

Kd460, here are some crossover part#s for a replacement filter for your Speeco splitter. To answer your other question, yes hydraulic fluid will pour out when you unscrew the filter. You can drain the entire tank first in to a clean container and then re-use the oil or you can put a container under the filter and then change the filter quickly. The fluid caught by the container can then be poured back in to the unit.

If you have any questions, you can call us here at Speeco@ 800-525-8322

Thanks

Kevin from SpeeCo.
=================================================
That Wix number 51553 is a 33 micron filter. A 51551 is the 10 micron.
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlook...p?PartNo=51553

=================================================
http://www.fleetfilter.com/mm5/merc...ode=fleetfilter&Product_Code=51553&ShowShip=1
for 10 micron version, use 51551, use 20 micron, use 51552


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## blel (Apr 23, 2011)

The Baldwin BT839 is 25 micron, Fram 1653A is 10 micron. Which one is correct?


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## Intheswamp (Apr 24, 2011)

blel said:
			
		

> The Baldwin BT839 is 25 micron, Fram 1653A is 10 micron. Which one is correct?


If I recall correctly the original Cross filter that comes on the 22-ton is 25 micron...it has been stated that going to a smaller mesh filter can cause to much pressure build up and blow the filter.

Ed


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## muncybob (Apr 24, 2011)

TreePointer said:
			
		

> Hydraulic fluid filter discussion w/cross reference:
> https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/70566/
> 
> My manual says to replace hydraulic fluid filter after first 25 hours, and then every 100 hours thereafter (or seasonally).



Yep, that's what mine says too but I normally do the overkill approach. I plan to change the engine oil after 2.5 hours and replace with 10-30 reg oil...then at 5 hours plan to switch to synthetic oil. I'm considering changing the hydraulic filter after about 10 hours then again at 25 hours and then go seasonally. Doing the engine like this due to metal shavings and debris from a new engine...hydraulic approach is probably not needed, but it will make me feel better. 

So, based on going with a 25 micron filter...which is the best filter out there? I won't buy Fram.....

Also, since I plan to be using the splitter in cold winter weather the manual suggest ATF......OK to run this in summer too?


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## blel (Apr 24, 2011)

I've used the Baldwin BT839. It's a 25 micron. From what I've heard, Baldwin is a good filter.

I haven't heard anything good about Fram either.


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## fireview2788 (Apr 24, 2011)

Thanks!  I was working on replacing mine.


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## muncybob (May 11, 2011)

I saw on the TSC website that the splitter went up in price...glad I got mine when I did.
Then, in the mail last night was the TSC flyer showing it "on sale" at $999.

Changed the engine oil for the first time last night...bit of a messy proposition. For some reason I thought I needed over a qt. of oil so I poured one in and then got the manual out to discover I overfilled it....so drained the engine again.  The drain plug "feels" like you could easily overtighten it and strip it?


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## TreePointer (May 11, 2011)

Heehee!  If all else fails, RTFM.


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## Intheswamp (May 11, 2011)

Yelp, I think even the TSC mechanics might be reading the manuals now. 

I changed the engine oil last weekend in mine.  I let it drain for a good long while and replaced the oil.  I used a measuring cup I purchased from Bailey's...really nice cup.  Anyhow, even though the manual states that the engine requires 20 ounces I started with 18 ounces being as that's how much comes in the little bottle that SpeeCo ships with the splitters.  Sure enough it was low....ended up putting very close to 19 1/2 ounces in the machine to get it to split the "full mark" hole on the dipstick.  I saved the old oil but haven't inspected in closely for debris though I did detect a few small bits with a casual look.  Whatever the case, it's topped off and ready to go.  I'm thinking of changing it one more time in another 5 hours just to give it a double rinse to start it's life out...might be a waste of oil but won't hurt anything, either.

I did notice that there was some hydraulic oil on the bottom of the pump, I"m not sure but what it was there from the initial filling or possibly from being overfilled.  There was also some oily residue that looked to be a mix of oil and gray powder(?).  The gray part of it make me think of the dust that was the remains of the lovejoy couplings that coated everything in that compartment with the previous machine.  ???  The lovejoys are tight but I'm keeping a watch on things...just kind of interesting.

Now if this 50% humidity and 90F degree temperature would back off a little bit....

Ed


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## wkpoor (May 11, 2011)

I see almost no reason to ever change the hydraulic oil on a splitter. Maybe the filter every few years but the oil no. We don't even ever change the oil on our transport category aircraft here at the flight dept so why in the name of god would you need to change it on something as low tech as a log splitter is beyond me.


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## Intheswamp (May 11, 2011)

muncybob said:
			
		

> I saw on the TSC website that the splitter went up in price...glad I got mine when I did.
> Then, in the mail last night was the TSC flyer showing it "on sale" at $999.
> 
> Changed the engine oil for the first time last night...bit of a messy proposition. For some reason I thought I needed over a qt. of oil so I poured one in and then got the manual out to discover I overfilled it....so drained the engine again.  The drain plug "feels" like you could easily overtighten it and strip it?


muncybob, did you change it at the 2.5 hour mark or the 5 hour mark.  I intended to change mine at the 2.5 hour mark but ended up at the 5.3 hour mark.  I went back in with dino 30hd and plan to change this out in another 5 hours.  I'm not sure whether to go with synthetic or dino....I'll probably go with dino since we're so far south and probably won't be using the splitter when it's cold enough to matter but it is subject to be used when it's hotter weather.

I agree with the drain plug feeling a bit "iffy".  It looked like mine had some type of red thread lock on it.  Mine has been sitting several days since I changed it and hasn't been ran so I'll check it and be sure it hasn't leaked any.

Ed


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## Intheswamp (May 11, 2011)

wkpoor said:
			
		

> I see almost no reason to ever change the hydraulic oil on a splitter. Maybe the filter every few years but the oil no. We don't even ever change the oil on our transport category aircraft here at the flight dept so why in the name of god would you need to change it on something as low tech as a log splitter is beyond me.


I agree with you about changing the hydraulic fluid (unless of course a problem is detected) but I don't think anyone mentioned changing it.  ???

Ed


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## wkpoor (May 11, 2011)

Sorry I must have read this post too fast. Thought someone was talking af changing Hyd oil. I reread and see it was all about engine oil and those little things do need it changed often.


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## muncybob (May 12, 2011)

Ed, I was planning at 2 or 3 hours but I've been using the splitter a lot so I think it was around 5 hours. Did not look real close at the oil but it had a milky sort of look to it. I plan to change again at the next 5 hour mark and will replace with synthetic since I see me using it in cold weather...also planning to drain the hydraulic oil out and replace with ATF. Checked all the fittings/nuts & bolts, etc and the only thing that was loose is a screw with a washer behind it on the face of the cylinder housing....no idea what it's there for?


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## lukem (May 12, 2011)

Same thing here.  Oil looked murky so I changed it after about 3 or 4 tanks of fuel.  Won't be using it again until fall, so we'll see how it looks after some more use.  Might change it after another 5 hours or so.

I recently bought a tiller with a Honda GX engine.  It has about 3 hours on it and the oil is still crystal clear.  I wonder if the difference is truly metal particulate or just assembly lube differences?


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## Intheswamp (May 12, 2011)

muncybob said:
			
		

> Ed, I was planning at 2 or 3 hours but I've been using the splitter a lot so I think it was around 5 hours. Did not look real close at the oil but it had a milky sort of look to it. I plan to change again at the next 5 hour mark and will replace with synthetic since I see me using it in cold weather...also planning to drain the hydraulic oil out and replace with ATF. Checked all the fittings/nuts & bolts, etc and the only thing that was loose is a screw with a washer behind it on the face of the cylinder housing....no idea what it's there for?



That's about how my "early" oil change went, too.  

I hear you on the synthetic.  I wouldn't really mind going that route, but the heat down here I think is our big factor.  I left town yesterday evening....6:15cst, bank clock read 93F...thermometer in the jeep read 95F.  It's HOT!  

I've got three pieces of that old cemetery oak to finish cutting into stove length and then split.  Then I've gotta clean the area up.  Once I get that finished my cousin has a big red oak out in a pasture that went down about a month ago.  I'm a little iffy about that one as I've got a good feeling it's going to be really limby.  Then another friend has an oak of some sort that went down on a dirt road beside his house....the county was nice enough to cut it up *some* and push it onto the edge of his field....probably another limby one.<sigh>  And I've still gotta try to get me some pine cut pretty quick for 11/12.  But this heat is getting rather oppressive.

I will say that the red oak from the cemetery has quickly started showing some good splitting on the ends...this heat and the dry breezes that we've had seem to have things in hyper drying mode....this weekend we're *supposed* to get some rain (we need it very, very badly) so that might slow down drying for a few days.

Ed

ETA:  Ditto on the murky oil.  I've still got it sat aside for further inspection.  Hmm, I'll have to check that screw/washer out on my splitter and see what you're talking about.  I haven't gone completely over the splitter since I've been using it...guess that needs doing before I crank it back up!


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## Intheswamp (May 12, 2011)

lukem said:
			
		

> Same thing here.  Oil looked murky so I changed it after about 3 or 4 tanks of fuel.  Won't be using it again until fall, so we'll see how it looks after some more use.  Might change it after another 5 hours or so.
> 
> I recently bought a tiller with a Honda GX engine.  It has about 3 hours on it and the oil is still crystal clear.  I wonder if the difference is truly metal particulate or just assembly lube differences?


Interesting observation regarding the GX's oil being clear.  It could be from manufacturing lube or possibly differences in engine material.

Ed


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