# Bar & chain advice for a Makita 6421



## AK13 (Apr 17, 2014)

I just picked up a used Makita 6421 saw (Home Depot rental saw). I'm trying to figure out what to order for chains and whether I should replace the bar. The saw came with a brand new 20" bar and chain but the HD guys told me to throw out the chain because it is a "rental grade" chain that is lousy, can't be sharpened, etc. 

The bar is marked "35020MK72TR". I read on another forum that it might be made by a company called Trilink. 

From what I've read I need a 72 drive link count, 3/8" pitch, .050 guage chain. I read that the factory Makita set-up uses an Oregon Pro Lite and Oregon 72V Vanguard (safety) chain.  

I'm trying to figure out whether I should be buying another safety chain, a full chisel or a semi-chisel. And whether to go with a cheaper chain by Oregon or whether to spend the money on a Stihl. This will primarily be a firewood saw and I'll be mostly bucking up firewood with it. 

My previous experience is with an MS250 which I've always used with the OEM safety chains that came with it. I feel like I'm ready to step it up to a more aggressive chain, but really don't know how the safety/speed & performance trade-off is like. I've read quite a few threads on it and it seems to me that the consensus is that safety chains really aren't all that safe anyway and that there is a big loss of performance. But I'm also going to be stepping up to a bigger more powerful saw so maybe I shouldn't be jumping to a more aggressive chain at the same time. For the record I use chaps and a helmet with face sheild when cutting. 

Is there any reason to replace the new bar? 

What chains do you all recommend for this saw?


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## TreePointer (Apr 17, 2014)

You can use any bar that matches the *pitch* of the saw's drive sprocket and the *bar mount pattern* of the saw.  Drive sprockets are gauge independent.

If the bar says Makita on it, then it should be fine.  In fact, I'm pretty sure that it's an Oregon bar with the Makita name painted on it.  As with any bar, look at the information stamped on the bar to learn the *pitch*, *gauge*, and *number of drive links* (DL) required for the chain you purchase.

The drawback of using the bar that comes with the saw is that it usually is a 20" bar.  The felling dogs on that saw are on the large size, so it's effective cutting length is even shorter.

On mine, I decided to go with a 24" Oregon PowerMatch bar (3/8 pitch, .050 gauge).  I really like Stihl chain, so I run Stihl RS chains (full chisel, full compliment of cutters) on it.  I also have a 32" Oregon PowerMatch bar for it that runs the same Stihl RS chain.  Some folks keep a 28" bar on theirs all the time.

The Oregon chain alternative that I like on that saw is LGX.

Also note that there are lightweight bars available, but they'll cost you a lot more than the standard bars.


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## AK13 (Apr 17, 2014)

Thanks for the reply. The bar says "Home Depot Tool Rental" on it. Its brand new. And it has 35020MK72TR stamped on it. 

I read this is what the number stands for: 350 means 3/8 Reg Chain, 20 is length, the MK is for Makita, 72 means 72 Drive Links, and TR means Tool Rental. 

Thanks for the advice on bar length. My understanding is that this saw will easily handle a larger bar so I'm thinking about maybe getting a new chain for my 20" bar. Then down the road maybe I'll try it out with a new 24" bar and chain on it. 

Any thoughts on the Stihl 33RSC. That sounds like a bit of a compromise between full chisel and safety. It says "Aggressive full chisel chain, but has a single-humped drive link to reduce kickback tendency". I found it on Amazon. But they don't have it on the Stihl website.


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## zzr7ky (Apr 17, 2014)

Hi - I have a couple of th Makita 6401 and 6421 saws.  I've been running a 20" bar, 72 drive link count, 3/8" pitch, .050 guage chain.  Oregon LGX.  It's plenty for cutting nearly anything I run into.  The longer bars are heavy and get in the way, or get into trouble (like rocks, fence, dirt  

I kept the safety chain for cutting stumps or places I suspect thre may be hidden metal in the wood.   It's just slow and if I recall correctly an bit of a pain to file.

Enjoy!
Mike


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## Ashful (Apr 17, 2014)

Another vote for Stihl RS/RSC-33 chain, or equivalent.  The "RSC" is just the low-vibe version of the old RS chain.  In fact, I don't think they even make RS, anymore.

I buy whatever pro-grade 3/8" / .050" full-chisel chain my saw shop has on sale at the time.  Stihl, Oregon, Carlton... I'm skeptical of anyone who claims they can tell the difference.

That's a mighty small saw to be going larger than 20" on the bar.  In fact, I find my 62.5 cc saw really struggles to get thru hardwood with the nose buried on a 20" bar.  If buying another bar, I'd be looking at 18", not larger.  Unless you're cutting on the west coast, 24" = 70cc, 28" = 80cc.

Anyone else find it odd that Makita uses "350" to denote .375" chain?


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## TreePointer (Apr 17, 2014)

Joful said:


> Another vote for Stihl RS/RSC-33 chain, or equivalent.*  The "RSC" is just the low-vibe version of the old RS chain.  In fact, I don't think they even make RS, anymore.*



You're correct that it had been RS, and then RSC, but within the past year or so Stihl dripped the "C" and went back to RS. 

The same is true for the semi-chisel chain.  RMC is back to being called RM.


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## TreePointer (Apr 17, 2014)

Joful said:


> That's a mighty small saw to be going larger than 20" on the bar.  In fact, I find my 62.5 cc saw really struggles to get thru hardwood with the nose buried on a 20" bar.  If buying another bar, I'd be looking at 18", not larger.  Unless you're cutting on the west coast, 24" = 70cc, 28" = 80cc.



Good point about bar length.  When I saw "Home Depot Makita," for some reason I assumed that it had been upgraded like I did to mine.  The 6401/6421 is pretty strong.  It can handle a 24" full comp chain but I wouldn't go longer.


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## mstoelton (Apr 18, 2014)

I have two of these saws from HD.  I have been cutting with them, and have found the saw to be a beast.  Try using it  like it is before you go down the road to modification.  the rental chains can be sharpened like any other chain, and they will stay sharp a reasonable amount of time if you keep them out of the dirt and away from metal in the wood.

Having used the saw with a 20 inch bar, unless you are using it for felling only, anything longer will get in the way for limbing and trimming.

I also purchased extra chains for $8 each from the HD rental dept, but have not had to use them yet because I have been sharpening the chains.  I was able to sharpen one I hit a nail with last weekend.  The saw started cutting to the right making a "C" shape through the  log.  I stopped and got out my Oregon guide/file combo, touched up the chain and was back at cutting in about 10 min.

I also got one of these to help with the sharpening:  http://www.amazon.com/Granberg-Bar-...1397820915&sr=1-3&keywords=chainsaw+sharpener.

The Makita 6421 for HD is an awesome saw for the money.


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## Jags (Apr 18, 2014)

That saw with an 18" bar and Stihl RS chain is gonna be a wood eating beast.  No problem running a 20", but I use an 18" for 80% of my cutting.  A 25" rounds out the rest.


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