# Pellet Stove Door Gasket Replacement?



## Don2222 (Nov 14, 2011)

Hello

Well, have to do my first door gasket. Any suggestions or tips? Is all stove gasket cement the same?

Already saw the 2 types of gaskets.

Pellet stove door gasket - white or graphite impregnated?
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/83355/

This gasket has seen better days!

It is
Order Number:  KS-5060-1160

Pelpro Door Gasket - 5/8" x 60". Use with all models and all years.

So I know I need 5 feet of 5/8" gasket


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## mlobitz (Nov 14, 2011)

DO NOT get the adhesive on the glass.  Impossible to get off.  Take your time removing the rope gasket and clean the area as thoroughly as possible.  Measure the rope first, using the old gasket and use small amounts of adhesive to adhere it to the door.   I need to do this too...


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## SmokeyTheBear (Nov 14, 2011)

I don't know what adhesive is with that particular kit Don, however acetone is one solvent that will allow removal of a number of gasket adhesives.  

Just be sure to use outdoors and keep any heat or flames well away.


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## Xena (Nov 14, 2011)

Oooh that rope looks really beat.  I'm also replacing mine this week
but it was only beat up in one spot. Figured I'd do it now
since the stove is going on 7 years old and it was the original gasket.
I plan on using hi temp red silicone since that is what the Mfg
used to install the original.  I used a wire brush by hand and a
dremel with a little wire wheel on it to get in the channel to remove
all the old sealant. Was not fun but the dremel made it much easier.
 Ordered the rope from Eric here on the forum btw.
Some tips I've seen around here say not to stretch it and to try
and make as clean a cut as possible using a sharp blade.
If you do a forum search you will find the threads with all the info/tips.


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## Stovensen (Nov 14, 2011)

Just before the start of this season, I changed the door gasket on my Whitfield and I must tell you that the glue used by the factory was very difficult to remove... no solvent in the household was able to dissolve it. It was some sort of high temp silicone. I tried acetone, gasoline and alcohol. The only way was hard labour with a sharp and narrow wood chisel.

I used this ceramic glue with the new gasket:

http://eshop.silvan.dk/vare_Ceratherm-keramisk-lim_123268

It's waterbased and has much in common with the sealant used for silencers on cars.


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## LIpelletpig (Nov 14, 2011)

I know Rutland makes the Graphite Door Gasket.. I replaced mine two years ago and it didn't hold up at all.  I prefer the white and it's easier to make a clean cut for the seam.  I think it's easier to work with as well.  Good advice from all the other posts.  Hope that helps.


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## Don2222 (Nov 14, 2011)

Hello

Wow thanks for the info you guys you are the best!

You guys make replacing the gasket much more enjoyable!

So it looks like I had the Orig Factory High Temp Red Silicone holding the gasket on! Using a screw driver I peeled it away and some of the silicone came with it. Then I used a razor blade knife to get the hunks of silicone off. Then used the dremel with the round brass brush! Thanks Xena.

Then cleaned up with the Acetone of course!! Great advice, it did not take long!!

I picked up some stove gasket cement & sealer at the local hardware store made my Meeco Mfg Co.

It says to apply and even bead of adhesive and close door for 2 hours on a newspaper so the door will not be glued shut!
Has anyone tried this Meeco adhesive? 
http://www.amazon.com/Meeco-Gasket-Cement-Stove-Sealer/dp/B000LNWLDU 

Sorry Stovensen I cannot get your adhesive around NH USA.


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## Don2222 (Nov 14, 2011)

LIpelletpig said:
			
		

> I know Rutland makes the Graphite Door Gasket.. I replaced mine two years ago and it didn't hold up at all.  I prefer the white and it's easier to make a clean cut for the seam.  I think it's easier to work with as well.  Good advice from all the other posts.  Hope that helps.



Hello LIpelletpig

Thank-you very much with your experience, I guess I will stick with the gasket that the manufacturer sends me from Alberta. It is probably the white gasket.


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## Stovensen (Nov 15, 2011)

Don, thanks a lot for the link to that "Meeco Red Devil" glue. Now I realize that I've paid way too much for those 17 ml I bought for my door gasket. On Amazon.com you pay $2.47 for 88 ml and at my local hardware store I paid what corresponds to $15.52 for only 17 ml.
Would you pay $80.40 for those 88 ml of Meeco Red Devil glue? I guess not.

I'm pretty shure the Meeco Red Devil glue is cooked on the same recipy than the glue I bought... I can tell it from the warning text written on the sharp photo of the bottle in your post. Some kind of alkaline high temp mortar containing potassium or is it sodium silicate ( written under the Warning: ).

I'm convinced that Holst's Gun Gum ( for fixing leaks in exhaust silencers on cars  ) can do the trick just as well. I'll give it a try next time.


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## checkthisout (Nov 15, 2011)

Why not just use high temp RTV from your local auto parts store?


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## Xena (Nov 15, 2011)

Checkthisout said:
			
		

> Why not just use high temp RTV from your local auto parts store?




That's probably what I'll go pick up today.   The rope gasket I ordered on Friday from Eric 
arrived this morning.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Nov 15, 2011)

Temperature rating is what you need to take into consideration.


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## Xena (Nov 15, 2011)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

> Temperature rating is what you need to take into consideration.



I have permatex hi temp 700F rated...that good enough?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Nov 15, 2011)

Xena said:
			
		

> SmokeyTheBear said:
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Most gasket cement is rated at 2000 Â°F.


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## Xena (Nov 16, 2011)

Don did you get yours done?  I did it yesterday. Used the 700F red permatex stuff.
It is what was used on the original that lasted 7 years so figured what the hay.
Didn't come out half bad. Made a little mess where the two ends meet but 
this was the first time I'd done a door gasket.  Double thumbs up for Eric Kinsman
for sending me the gasket so quickly.   :coolsmile:   




great seal, great burn, Ima happy camper.


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## Don2222 (Nov 16, 2011)

Xena said:
			
		

> Don did you get yours done?  I did it yesterday. Used the 700F red permatex stuff.
> It is what was used on the original that lasted 7 years so figured what the hay.
> Didn't come out half bad. Made a little mess where the two ends meet but
> this was the first time I'd done a door gasket.  Double thumbs up for Eric Kinsman
> for sending me the gasket so quickly.   :coolsmile:



Hi Xena

My gasket was suppose to arrive today but I do not see it yet. Yours looks great!! Nice Pic!! Can you come over and do mine??


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## smilejamaica (Nov 17, 2011)

i replaced mine this year on my breckwell also. the directions said to dampen the gasket first before putting it on.then let it sit for a hour them run the stove for a few hours .
i picked mine up at

http://woodheatstoves.com/breckwell-door-rope-gasket-10-x-58-p-9746.html


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## Don2222 (Nov 17, 2011)

Hello

I just found out that Lowes has the door gasket and gasket cement pretty cheap!

http://www.lowes.com/pd_67093-85334...pl__0__s?Ntt=imperial+door+gasket&facetInfo;=


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## jdempsey (Nov 17, 2011)

Don2222 said:
			
		

> Hello
> 
> I just found out that Lowes has the door gasket and gasket cement pretty cheap!



Yes i seen this gasket kit a while back in my local lowes. HMMMM. I see in the pic only a 1 star rating.
I would check that out and see why the dissatisfaction.


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## Xena (Nov 17, 2011)

I got mine from Eric.  Didn't have the desire or time to run around
looking for one and he sent it out on Sat. - It got here Tuesday. 
Wasn't expensive either.  Wouldn't worry about that review for
the one at Lowes.  Only one person reviewed it and they said it
lasted less than one season. Said the adhesive didn't hold.
I'd place my bet on user error.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Nov 17, 2011)

Proper surface preparation and meeting adhesive set up requirements is essential when using any adhesive.

If that isn't done you get BAD BONDING (in other words it no sticky for long).


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## Don2222 (Nov 17, 2011)

Xena said:
			
		

> I got mine from Eric.  Didn't have the desire or time to run around
> looking for one and he sent it out on Sat. - It got here Tuesday.
> Wasn't expensive either.  Wouldn't worry about that review for
> the one at Lowes.  Only one person reviewed it and they said it
> ...



Hello

Yes, you are right. Also using the dremel and acetone really helps to clean up the where the gasket goes!. This stove I have should burn much better also. I have not tested it yet but I want to build a hearth where it will be displayed. Have to get my schetches done!

What do you think of a raised hearth with a cubby? A small door in front for storing cleaning brushes and tools??


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## DexterDay (Nov 18, 2011)

Don2222 said:
			
		

> Xena said:
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Building a Hearth to display the stove is a good idea.. 

But I see at least 3 problems with that though...
1.) What if buyer already has a Hearth (board)??
2.) Dont make it cost to much more. Whoever is buying this stove, is looking at used stoves for a reason (budget).
3.) What if they want a standard board and you build a corner unit? Or vice versa?

Good luck Don. Wish you lived closer. I would have you build me a Hearth pad with cubbies and such.


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## smoke show (Nov 18, 2011)

DexterDay said:
			
		

> ...I see at least 3 problems with that though...



funsucker.

 :lol:


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## DexterDay (Nov 18, 2011)

smoke show said:
			
		

> DexterDay said:
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You know it


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## Don2222 (Nov 20, 2011)

Hello

Well I finally got the new supposedly OEM door gasket from the Manufacturer Canadian Comfort Industries in Alberta Canada. 


What a disaster I had!!

  The guy I talked to was very pleasant and very helpful in guiding me to the correct fire brick back panel for the Bay View stove. However the parts were shipped from Minnesota and what ever door gasket they found and packed into the box was way too short!! So getting a door gasket from the manufacturer is NOT the best way to go!!

The Meeco High Temp Gasket Adhesive is very drippy like the old styrene cement for plastic models. It may be high temp and recommended for stoves but it is so hard to use I personally DO NOT recommend it!!

So I went the same route as Xena did and got the RTV out. With an inexpensive caulking gun it is the absolute best way to go!!

With the caulking gun just put the RTV on the door and it does not drip at all!!

I started the rope gasket at the lower left hand corner so the joint would not be near the door handle where it opens. I also started the width of the rope gasket higher than the corner so when I came back I could just go straight to the corner and cut it with very sharp scissors!

Then just close the door and open it to make sure it works and close it again for over an hour to dry!!

That is all


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## Xena (Nov 21, 2011)

Looks great Don!
Yeah I'm sticking with the
red permatex hi temp stuff
for future gasket installs.
If it was good enough for
the factory to use it's good nuff for me!


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## Don2222 (Nov 21, 2011)

Xena said:
			
		

> Looks great Don!
> Yeah I'm sticking with the
> red permatex hi temp stuff
> for future gasket installs.
> ...



Hello Xena

Thanks again for showing how it should be done! I ended up using some clear High Temp RTV and it worked great!

so I popped in some new fire brick and the stove is ready for sale.
See pics and tell me what you think?
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/83929/

I also started building a new raised hearth to display it.
See building a raised hearth again!
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/84018/


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## JohnD (Sep 13, 2014)

I have Rutland 500 degree silicone. Is this used for a pellet stove door gasket? Seems like the inside of the stove is hotter than that. Should I use silicone or cement sealant?


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