# How long should Oak season for?



## RayBurner (Feb 24, 2013)

I don't know how much climate makes a difference, but I live in SE Michigan.


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## pen (Feb 24, 2013)

2 years seems to be the minimum for good results.  Many recommend 3 or more even.

Here's a bunch more threads on the topic https://www.hearth.com/talk/search/9789211/?q=seasoning+oak&o=date&c[title_only]=1

pen


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## Pallet Pete (Feb 24, 2013)

RayBurner said:


> I don't know how much climate makes a difference, but I live in SE Michigan.


Hello ray and welcome I am a Michigander too ! In our climate 2 to 3 years split and stacked is good for oak 3 if possible. All of your wood should be a minimum of 1 year split and stacked uncovered in the wind. This gives far better heat life and much cleaner burns. Here is a shocker for ya softwoods like pine if split and stacked burn clean and hot and are great for spring and fall in Michigan. What kind of stove do you have ? 

Pete


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## rdust (Feb 24, 2013)

Two years if split smallish(nothing bigger than 3x3 or 4x4 squares) will "work". I love squares/rectangles and my bigger stuff that I split 6x8 or 8x8 will probably get 4 years before I burn them. That's stacking them in single rows with a few feet between rows.


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## RayBurner (Feb 24, 2013)

Hey Pete

Thanks. I have Quad 5100i. Tomorrow will be the end of my first week. I'm looking for all the advise I can get. 
I didn't know Pine was ok to burn. 
Thanks.


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## pen (Feb 24, 2013)

RayBurner said:


> Hey Pete
> 
> Thanks. I have Quad 5100i. Tomorrow will be the end of my first week. I'm looking for all the advise I can get.
> I didn't know Pine was ok to burn.
> Thanks.


 
When well seasoned, pine does just fine.  The rumors about burning pine causing chimney fires come from trying to burn it when under-seasoned.

pen


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## Pallet Pete (Feb 24, 2013)

RayBurner said:


> Hey Pete
> 
> Thanks. I have Quad 5100i. Tomorrow will be the end of my first week. I'm looking for all the advise I can get.
> I didn't know Pine was ok to burn.
> Thanks.



Any wood will burn when stacked and dried properly ! Some better than others but they will burn. When you buy wood keep in mind when they say 1 year dry they mean in log form if they say other wise run away there lying to you. firewood sellers generally buy logs and cut split them a couple weeks before you buy the wood. They are not even close to dry ! Get a moister meter and use it for a couple of years eventually you can do it by feel and sound. 20% moister max is what you want but split the piece in half and take the center reading to get the moister content. Any higher and you pumping creosote up the chimney and losing lots of potential heat. The wood when wet has to boil out the moister before it can really burn right and by that time it's expended it's energy and is burned up.  Hang around here and you will be amazed at the info you will learn ray ask a lot of questions. Can you put up pictures of your setup for all us wood geeks ? We love pics here. 

Pete


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## AppalachianStan (Feb 24, 2013)

Is there a post on here that give each wood species and it drying time? If not that would be nice.


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## Pallet Pete (Feb 24, 2013)

RayBurner said:


> Hey Pete
> 
> Thanks. I have Quad 5100i. Tomorrow will be the end of my first week. I'm looking for all the advise I can get.
> I didn't know Pine was ok to burn.
> Thanks.



Check your inbox ray I sent you a pm.


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## billb3 (Feb 24, 2013)

If there's bourbon in it - then at least 4 years.
No bourbon - 3 years
Anything less than that you're cheating yourself.


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## ScotO (Feb 24, 2013)

In regards to seasoing oak, in two years it'll be so-so......give it three years or more, and it'll amaze you..

Pine burns great (and clean) when properly seasoned just like most other wood species.....

Welcome to the nuthouse.  We WILL NOT be responsible for your ensuing addiction to hoarding firewood, year-round obsession with collecting it, nor the countless hours you eventually end up spending time on this site as you literally wear the letters off of your PC's keyboard......

Carry on, my friend......


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## Jon1270 (Feb 24, 2013)

AppalachianStan said:


> Is there a post on here that give each wood species and it drying time?


 
I made an attempt at that here, but such estimates can only be rough approximations.  A lot depends on how much sun and wind the stacks are exposed to, local temperatures, whether the stacks are covered, etc.


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## Pallet Pete (Feb 24, 2013)

Scotty Overkill said:


> In regards to seasoing oak, in two years it'll be so-so......give it three years or more, and it'll amaze you..
> 
> Pine burns great (and clean) when properly seasoned just like most other wood species.....
> 
> ...


I haven't logged out since Nov 27 2011 really we aren't creepy right Scotty muwahaha ! 

Pete


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## TradEddie (Feb 24, 2013)

If two years is so-so, I'll be living with the windows open all next winter! The remarkable thing about oak, perhaps any wood is that magic point when the moisture reaches critical level. My oak was 20 months seasoned in October, and would barely burn, yet by January seemed perfect, I can't imagine it any better.

TE


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## Pallet Pete (Feb 24, 2013)

TradEddie said:


> If two years is so-so, I'll be living with the windows open all next winter! The remarkable thing about oak, perhaps any wood is that magic point when the moisture reaches critical level. My oak was 20 months seasoned in October, and would barely burn, yet by January seemed perfect, I can't imagine it any better.
> 
> TE


It also depends on climate in MI 3 years is ideal but then we are surrounded by water too.

Pete


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## Locust Post (Feb 24, 2013)

Scotty Overkill said:


> In regards to seasoing oak, in two years it'll be so-so......give it three years or more, and it'll amaze you..
> 
> Pine burns great (and clean) when properly seasoned just like most other wood species.....
> 
> ...


 
I think the medical term is Hearfirepicstowooditis


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## Fins59 (Feb 24, 2013)

I've been burning oak all winter and it's probably seasoned only about 1 year, and it's doing fine. 
The catch is that it is oak slabwood.  The thicker stuff  that I have to split is not that well seasoned and I stack that off to the side and will burn that next year.
One sign that your wood is ready to burn is that the ends have a lot cracks in them.


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## pen (Feb 24, 2013)

My parents have 25 acres about 15 miles from the house that is steep as hell and covered in oak. 

Because of the seasoning time, I've never taken a bit of wood off the land, and actually take wood over there for the fire pit from my own home/stockpile.

Now that I'm keeping about 3 years ahead, I'm thinking this will be the year that I do some experimenting with oak and figure out a way to work that mountain.

pen


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## rdust (Feb 24, 2013)

Fins59 said:


> One sign that your wood is ready to burn is that the ends have a lot cracks in them.


 
Actually once wood is well seasoned those cracks won't be so prominent. Early on in the seasoning process when the middle is still wet and the ends starts to season you'll get those cracks, these happen pretty quick. As the internal moisture content and ends even up those cracks tend to close up. On my 3 years plus wood the cracks are probably less than they were at 3 months.


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## ScotO (Feb 24, 2013)

pen said:


> My parents have 25 acres about 15 miles from the house that is steep as hell and covered in oak.
> 
> Because of the seasoning time, I've never taken a bit of wood off the land, and actually take wood over there for the fire pit from my own home/stockpile.
> 
> ...


Pen, I'd work from the bottom up.....use gravity to do most of the work.  I don't think I'd burn wood at all if I didn't have lots and lots of oak in the stacks.....


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## pen (Feb 24, 2013)

Scotty Overkill said:


> Pen, I'd work from the bottom up.....use gravity to do most of the work. I don't think I'd burn wood at all if I didn't have lots and lots of oak in the stacks.....


 
I hear ya. It's tight. 25 acres that's only 330 feet wide. Goes straight up for almost a 1/4 mile, then straight down the other side. I have a 4x4 30 horse John Deere tractor that can't climb much of it. Only have a 2wd 4wheeler and that can climb the front side, but not the back. Hoping it will be able to pull some stuff down the hill on that side w/out running me over.

Gotta try it.

My grandfather used to have the property and lived there his entire life. He never took wood off that hill, always the neighbors!

pen


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## Locust Post (Feb 24, 2013)

Scotty Overkill said:


> Pen, I'd work from the bottom up.....use gravity to do most of the work. I don't think I'd burn wood at all if I didn't have lots and lots of oak in the stacks.....


 
Funny to hear that Scotty....I have been burning for about 30 years and have had very little oak but a lot of locust through out the years. Probably more cherry than anything and beech a close runnerup. I have a nice stack of white and red now but it needs a couple more years.


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## ScotO (Feb 24, 2013)

Locust Post said:


> Funny to hear that Scotty....I have been burning for about 30 years and have had very little oak but a lot of locust through out the years. Probably more cherry than anything and beech a close runnerup. I have a nice stack of white and red now but it needs a couple more years.


Oh, you know me LP...I couldn't live without my locust, either...

What amazes me about well seasoned oak is it burns down to almost absolutely NOTHING.  I haven't emptied out the ashes in my stoves (neither one of them) in almost two weeks and there is still very little ash in there.  Burning mostly oak, locust and a little bit of maple and ash...


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## Gark (Feb 24, 2013)

Three years for oak C/S/S. Single rows separated enough to drive between. Top covered only. For all I know, longer might be even better, but I've never been that far ahead to find out.


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## fabsroman (Feb 24, 2013)

Scotty Overkill said:


> In regards to seasoing oak, in two years it'll be so-so......give it three years or more, and it'll amaze you..
> 
> Pine burns great (and clean) when properly seasoned just like most other wood species.....
> 
> ...


 
Always include the disclaimer for CAD. That disease can stress and break marriages. lol


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## HDRock (Feb 24, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Ray,  from another spot in ,Mi


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## TX-L (Feb 25, 2013)

Pallet Pete said:


> When you buy wood keep in mind when they say 1 year dry they mean in log form if they say other wise run away there lying to you.


 
That's not always true, but probably is more often than not.  The only wood I sell has been cut/split/stacked for a about a year (depending on whether it was felled green or dead), and species.  I never sell oak 1 year seasoned (I typically keep all the oak for myself anyway).  I split a couple of pieces and check it with a moisture indicator before I sell it.  I stack it on pallets.  I measure the stacks with a tape measure to ensure that people get the quantity that they pay for.  It's a small time operation, just for a little extra cash in the fall, I enjoy being in the woods, and have access to lots of wood.  Each year I have more people that want firewood, a reputation for seasoned wood and word of mouth is a good advertiser.  I am getting more customers than I can accomodate!  Oh, and I split it all by hand, too.  Axes are good for the body and soul!  I know everyone likes photos, so... enjoy!


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## Ralphie Boy (Feb 25, 2013)

Welcom Ray! And I just have to say it....... everyone is waiting for me to say it....... I can't let them down.......so here it is: "The best way to check the moisture content of your firewood is with a multi-year calendar and a permanet marker!" There, I said it!


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## TimJ (Feb 25, 2013)

and TX-L, thanks for the pictures.........we are enjoying them


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## BobUrban (Feb 25, 2013)

Welcome from another Michigander - Enough said on oak but fortunately here in Michigan we still have a relatively unlimited supply of dead standing or wind blown ash that if cut, split and stacked now will be ready to burn for you next season. Split it relatively small and stack it loosely in the open, exposed to wind in single rows for best results. Once you get 3 or more years ahead you can start stacking wood a little tighter as long as it is not oak - I keep mine separate and in single rows because I just do not have enough to be that far ahead on oak. As long as your wood is off the ground(pallets/saplings/2x4's etc...) it will last for a long, long time. No need to worry about it rotting contrary to what non-believers will tell you. Those that cut in the fall to burn that winter like to throw that one at ya.

Ash is good stuff and, although not quite oak in reputation, it will keep you warm and burn long.


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## Woody Stover (Feb 25, 2013)

To be on the safe side, just go ahead and put any Oak you get in your will.


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## ohlongarm (Feb 25, 2013)

RayBurner said:


> I don't know how much climate makes a difference, but I live in SE Michigan.


 Minimally in NE Ohio is 2 years southern exposure,3 years any exposure is ideal top covered,you will probably never get below 15%mc17% to 20% average but that works well,although I have some 10 year old white oak at 14% that I'm burning,hope that gives you a range you can live with.


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## Fins59 (Feb 25, 2013)

rdust said:


> Actually once wood is well seasoned those cracks won't be so prominent. Early on in the seasoning process when the middle is still wet and the ends starts to season you'll get those cracks, these happen pretty quick. As the internal moisture content and ends even up those cracks tend to close up. On my 3 years plus wood the cracks are probably less than they were at 3 months.


 
 Thanks for info rdust.  I'll have to keep an eye on those cracks.  But I very seldom have 3 year old wood on hand.  Sure would like too though.  This spring I plan on cutting up a bunch, maybe get ahead a couple years anyway.


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## Pallet Pete (Feb 25, 2013)

TX-L said:


> That's not always true, but probably is more often than not.  The only wood I sell has been cut/split/stacked for a about a year (depending on whether it was felled green or dead), and species.  I never sell oak 1 year seasoned (I typically keep all the oak for myself anyway).  I split a couple of pieces and check it with a moisture indicator before I sell it.  I stack it on pallets.  I measure the stacks with a tape measure to ensure that people get the quantity that they pay for.  It's a small time operation, just for a little extra cash in the fall, I enjoy being in the woods, and have access to lots of wood.  Each year I have more people that want firewood, a reputation for seasoned wood and word of mouth is a good advertiser.  I am getting more customers than I can accomodate!  Oh, and I split it all by hand, too.  Axes are good for the body and soul!  I know everyone likes photos, so... enjoy!
> 
> View attachment 94960
> View attachment 94961



Good to see someone is honest ! Around here its almost impossible to find I gave up trying years ago. There is only one I know of and they are a long ways away from us about 1.5 hr drive. 

Pete


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## gzecc (Feb 25, 2013)

At least 2 yrs on oak. If it was from a vibrant tree, I think it will need 3 yrs to get down below 25%. The return on investment for oak for me is just too small.  There is plenty of hard maple, locust, mulberry, elm, hickory ect, for me to wait on oak. I do have some, but it needs to drop in my yard for me to process it.


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## Paulywalnut (Feb 26, 2013)

rdust said:


> Actually once wood is well seasoned those cracks won't be so prominent. Early on in the seasoning process when the middle is still wet and the ends starts to season you'll get those cracks, these happen pretty quick. As the internal moisture content and ends even up those cracks tend to close up. On my 3 years plus wood the cracks are probably less than they were at 3 months.


 I did not know that! I've learned something today! Thanks.


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## rdust (Feb 26, 2013)

Paulywalnut said:


> I did not know that! I've learned something today! Thanks.


 
I don't know about that!  Your mileage may vary, I find my cracks to be less prominent with time not sure it translates for everyone.


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## Mackj (Feb 26, 2013)

Michigan sure is strong on this site!  And I was born and raised in Pa which is also well represented!  I am on here every day, and have been busting to get a couple of years ahead.  I also used to be a one year ahead guy before I found this site.  I have a bunch of one year seasoned oak and have set it aside for further seasoning.  When the snow melts off my log pile I'll post a pic.


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## Locust Post (Feb 26, 2013)

Mackj said:


> Michigan sure is strong on this site! And I was born and raised in Pa which is also well represented! I am on here every day, and have been busting to get a couple of years ahead. I also used to be a one year ahead guy before I found this site. I have a bunch of one year seasoned oak and have set it aside for further seasoning. When the snow melts off my log pile I'll post a pic.


 
Hey Mackj, I see you have an Aussie. I have my first one but he is about 12 now and we just found a mass on him which they think may be malignent, we'll know more tomorrow. Best dog I have ever had, gonna be a tough day if this takes him.


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## Bret Chase (Feb 26, 2013)

Scotty Overkill said:


> Oh, you know me LP...I couldn't live without my locust, either...
> 
> What amazes me about well seasoned oak is it burns down to almost absolutely NOTHING. I haven't emptied out the ashes in my stoves (neither one of them) in almost two weeks and there is still very little ash in there. Burning mostly oak, locust and a little bit of maple and ash...


 
I've been burning locust exclusively for almost a month... I haven't cleaned my stove out in 2 weeks.... and I've got about an inch of ash in the bottom of my smoke dragon... It's been fairly warm most of the time too.... which means I have been trying to maintain 300F stack temps...and being forced to wear shorts and a tanktop in my 19th century mostly uninsulated farmhouse...


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## Bret Chase (Feb 26, 2013)

Seasoning time really, REALLY depends on when the tree was cut down....  if it was cut in maine between late November and early February... a couple of years is plenty.....  if it was cut in late feb-late march.... add a year or two to the seasoning time....  I cut down half of a twin maple today.... the sap was running out of it like I cut off a garden hose,...


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## Mackj (Feb 28, 2013)

Locust Post hope things work out with your buddy.  We lost a great old girl last year , waited almost a year and got Rocket.  He is a pup and a handfull!


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## Backwoods Savage (Feb 28, 2013)

Fins59 said:


> I've been burning oak all winter and it's probably seasoned only about 1 year, and it's doing fine.
> The catch is that it is oak slabwood. The thicker stuff that I have to split is not that well seasoned and I stack that off to the side and will burn that next year.
> One sign that your wood is ready to burn is that the ends have a lot cracks in them.


 
Sorry Fins, but when you see cracks on the ends of the logs that only means that the ends are dry. It says nothing about the middle of the log. Wood sellers like to point this out and they are wrong.


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## Backwoods Savage (Feb 28, 2013)

RayBurner said:


> I don't know how much climate makes a difference, but I live in SE Michigan.


 

Welcome to the forum Ray.

Lots of varying advice given by many good fellas. So it is time to give mine. First, you should know that most of our wood is dried up to 7 years in the stack and I'm the guy who started preaching that everyone get 3 years ahead on their wood stacks. Fortunately, many have taken the advice and have reaped the benefits, which are many!

So here is how we do things. Our cutting starts usually around December 1 and ends usually by March 1. We just pile it up in the winter and do all the splitting in the spring. We cut saplings in the woods and lay those down to stack the wood on. The big thing is to just get the wood off the ground and it helps to get some air circulation because air circulation is the biggest key to drying wood. Even more important than sunshine. This is why it is bad to cut wood then stack it right away in a barn or shed. It needs to be outdoors so the wind can do its thing. Also keep in mind that wood won't dry until it is split so it is important to get the wood splits as soon as you can.

After stacking the wood at a height of around 4 1/2', we simply leave it alone. The following fall or early winter we will then cover the top of the stack using old galvanized roofing but one can use many things for covering. Tarps are the worst though.

We then simply forget about the wood and let Mother Nature do her thing to complete the drying. In October we then move enough wood for the winter's needs into the barn. Naturally we normally use our oldest wood. So why do we do things this way?

1. Cutting wood in winter means sap is down, birds have gone south and we don't have to slap skeeters nor dodge yellow jackets. It also is a better time to do the hard work rather than doing it in the humid summers.

2. Giving our wood plenty of time to dry means we are never concerned about which wood to burn nor are we wondering if the wood will really burn. Too many go through this annually. In addition, we do not have to continually resplit the wood so we can check it with a moisture meter. There is no need for the meter. We know our wood is dry.

3. We do burn a small amount of oak and for sure we will not attempt to burn oak until it has been split and stacked for a minimum of 3 years. Any time shorter means the stove needs more draft to burn the wood. This means you are not getting the maximum amount of heat from the wood because lots of that energy is used to just keep the wood burning and goes right up the chimney. Burn it dry and you get the full benefits of the wood and you will also find you burn less wood and get more heat.

4. I stated it above, but it bears repeating. You will burn less wood and get more heat. This means a lot less work that you have to do.

5. You won't be fighting the stove or the fire. Put wood in the stove and it will light off right away. Too many times we read or hear of others who can't seem to get their fire to burn or can't get the stove top temperature even up to 500. We have no problem getting our stove up to over 600 and can do that with 3 splits!

6. What will you do if some year some bad luck falls your way? Will you have wood to burn? If you are 3 years ahead and something bad happens so you can't cut wood that winter, you have some to fall back on and do not have to either buy wood or ask for help. We've seen this scenario with several guys on this forum!

I could go on and on but do not want to bore anyone. But if you read my signature line you can see we've burned wood for a couple years and have learned much. We are also thankful that we are still able to learn more!

Good luck.


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## Locust Post (Feb 28, 2013)

Mackj said:


> Locust Post hope things work out with your buddy. We lost a great old girl last year , waited almost a year and got Rocket. He is a pup and a handfull!


 
Thanks Mackj.....prognosis is not good cancer that is starting to effect the ribs. Could do surgery but I will not put a 12 year old through that. We'll just see what the Good Lord can do and enjoy him as long as he's here. I will likely have another Aussie some day but not sure if it will be a full size or a minature. Sorry to the original poster did not mean to highjack the thread. I


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## Fins59 (Mar 7, 2013)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Sorry Fins, but when you see cracks on the ends of the logs that only means that the ends are dry. It says nothing about the middle of the log. Wood sellers like to point this out and they are wrong.


 Got back to this thread kinda late.  I have a friend (age about 65) who grew up on a farm, ,and all their heat was from wood, and when he visits me (sometimes helps me cut wood) he says "ends are cracked, that's dry".  That's where I got that knowledge from.  But he's been wrong before. 
I can actually tell how clean my wood is burning by the inside of my stove door.  If it soots up that means chimney is too.  In the last few weeks I've been throwing in a few pieces of last summers maple with my oak and door is sooting up a little. 
 Chimney cleaning is another subject, but I got it down so I can clean mine in about 10 minutes.
 Going to stick only with the oak now since season is winding down and I should have enough. 
Like I might have said before, this spring I am going for at least 3 seasons ahead.


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## Backwoods Savage (Mar 7, 2013)

Worry not. Many people believe that crap about the ends cracking means the wood is drying. Well, for what it's worth, I'm a bit older than that fellow and I also grew up on a farm. From the farm I went to the sawmill and logging. I started splitting wood when I was about 5 or 6 years old and shortly it became my chore to keep the stoves going and making certain there was always wood on the back porch (enclosed).


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## red oak (Mar 7, 2013)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Worry not. Many people believe that crap about the ends cracking means the wood is drying. Well, for what it's worth, I'm a bit older than that fellow and I also grew up on a farm. From the farm I went to the sawmill and logging. I started splitting wood when I was about 5 or 6 years old and shortly it became my chore to keep the stoves going and making certain there was always wood on the back porch (enclosed).


 
I always thought this about the cracks in the wood - you learn something new every day!


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