# gonna get gas stove soon....



## argus66 (Jan 10, 2009)

hello im looking to but a small gas stove in the back room of my house im looking at the 2 smallest jotuls for my house is only 900sq ft and this stove is for mostly ambiance. anyone have idea of instlation cost the furnace in my house is about 12 ft away underneth stove in basement. just looking to get idea of price for plumbing and venting wich can be right out wall behind stove. thanks


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## EatenByLimestone (Jan 10, 2009)

Are you hiring somebody to come in and do it?  

Matt


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## argus66 (Jan 11, 2009)

ya unless its not to hard but i havent done much plumbing, however.


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## webbie (Jan 11, 2009)

Prices vary all over the place, but I would guess about $600 labor and incidental materials for wall cut though, venting, gas hookup, etc.....not including the DV vent parts.


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## DAKSY (Jan 11, 2009)

I agree with our illustrious webmaster...
On average, these things take no more than 3 hours with 2 installers...


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## argus66 (Jan 11, 2009)

both of these stove are 0 clearance so that means it can go right against the wall? and out the wall with no flue pipe.


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## DAKSY (Jan 11, 2009)

argus66 said:
			
		

> both of these stove are 0 clearance so that means it can go right against the wall? and out the wall with no flue pipe.



You are correct. You don't even need a thimble cover...
You will need a short section of DV pipe to make it thru the wall thimble & into the cap...
Most of the time a 6" length will suffice...
Depends on whether or not you're adding a vinyl siding stand-off
Then the length may hafta be a 9"...
You don't need a hearth pad, either, if you have a hardwood or tile floor...
Carpets, linoleum & Pergo (or similar) laminated floors DO require a hearth pad...
The hearthpads only have to be as large as the unit's "footprint"...
Width & depth of the outside dimension from the "feet" on the legs...
HTH!


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## argus66 (Jan 11, 2009)

what if i want a small pipe going up the wall say 2 ft or so this ok as well right, i really like the look of the black pipe it seems to finish off the look. so all the whole set up is is gas line from furance and then just a vent out the wall, right?


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## DAKSY (Jan 11, 2009)

argus66 said:
			
		

> what if i want a small pipe going up the wall say 2 ft or so this ok as well right, i really like the look of the black pipe it seems to finish off the look. so all the whole set up is is gas line from furance and then just a vent out the wall, right?



Sure, you can do that.
You're gonna lose a little more floor space, because both the Nordic (GF100) & the Lillehammer (GF200) are rear-vent units...
Your vertical DV will hafta be an inch away from the wall, as well, & probably farther so you can turn the uppermost 90 into the thimble cover...
Your gas line from the furnace should be fine, but it's really dependent on how far your furnace is from the meter 
& what size pipe is carrying the gas from the meter to the furnace, & how many other appliances (& their BTU input ratings) are in the loop...


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## argus66 (Jan 12, 2009)

interesting,, ya im  not sure if ill run pipe or not, furnace from the meter im not really sure what u mean all i have is water heater, dryer, gas oven,thats about it.


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## DAKSY (Jan 12, 2009)

Basically, what I'm saying is that when multiple gas appliances are fed, there needs to be enough volume for all of them to run at the same time. 
You have to have larger runs feeding smaller runs & then even smaller runs...
Say you have a 1" main coming into your house from the meter...It will run a certain distance before feeding the appliances...It can be reduced to 3/4" for another run then reduced to 1/2 for the final run(s)
Rule of thumb is for anything over 30 feet (for Natural Gas) is to use 3/4" diameter pipe (BIP or CSS Flex)...
Shorter branch runs can then be 1/2"
You wouldn't want your dryer to use the gas required to run your furnace...
You wouldn't want to turn your gas stove on & have somebody in the shower scream because the water went cold...I realize with a big enough HW tank, that this probably wouldn't happen, but I hope you get my drift...
There are installation books detailing the volumes required based on the BTU requirements of your appliances...A local plumber may be able to tell you what you need...
The best way is probably to have a licensed plumber or a certified gas specialist do the piping for you...
Either way, the Jotul gas products are quality units & you'll be happy with the results, if the install is done correctly...


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## trafick (Jan 12, 2009)

I just had a Jotul Allagash 300dv installed into my fireplace with two aluminum liners to the top of my 25' chimney,  colinear termination on either end, a high wind cap, a block off plate at the stove, and a brick kit in the stove for $2,700.  That also included the chimney being swept, painting the back of the fireplace black, plumbing the stove for gas and letting the stove run for an hour and adjusting the air shutter.

It took the guys most of the day to do it but they took there time and got it right.  I guess I could have saved a buck or two doing it myself but the piece of mind knowing that it was done by a licensed stove installer is worth the extra bucks.  Besides, if anything goes wrong, I have someone to call.

Enjoy your new stove, we really enjoy ours.


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## argus66 (Jan 12, 2009)

ya i will be going with pro instal im just trying to find out what they will be doing exactly so i have some idea of the installation. thanks for the good explanation. does a gas stove draw any gas even when off.


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## Fire Bug (Jan 12, 2009)

trafick said:
			
		

> I just had a Jotul Allagash 300dv installed into my fireplace with two aluminum liners to the top of my 25' chimney,  colinear termination on either end, a high wind cap, a block off plate at the stove, and a brick kit in the stove for $2,700.  That also included the chimney being swept, painting the back of the fireplace black, plumbing the stove for gas and letting the stove run for an hour and adjusting the air shutter.
> 
> It took the guys most of the day to do it but they took there time and got it right.  I guess I could have saved a buck or two doing it myself but the piece of mind knowing that it was done by a licensed stove installer is worth the extra bucks.  Besides, if anything goes wrong, I have someone to call.
> 
> Enjoy your new stove, we really enjoy ours.



Hi Trafick,
 That price sound about right. Actually it doesn't sound have bad for all the extra work that was done that most installers don't do.
 I believe I paid a little over 4K for a my Jotul DV 600 Firelight, with the brick kit, firescreen, blower unit, and programmable Sky tech remote. This price included all inside Dura Vent Pipe, and the aluminum corrigated liner up the chimney to the high wind termination cap. I am not sure if both the intake and exhaust pipe go to the very top or is it just the exhaust.
 My chimney is roughly the same height as yours.
 The price of these stoves, fireplaces, and inserts are certainly not cheap items, nor is the labor costs to install them. I wonder what it would cost to cost to install a propane furnace with all the trimmings,(hot water system)?
 This furnace should take care of heating the whole house.

John


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## trafick (Jan 13, 2009)

argus66,

The stove will use some gas for the pilot light.  Check other posts for how much but I think you can figure any where from 1,000 to 2,000 btu an hour depending on the type of pilot you have.  I have a three way pilot so mine is on the 2,000 end.  I do shut it off if we hit a warm spell and am planning to keep it off in the non-heating months.

John,

I was a bit sticker shocked myself.  I really didn't want to spend much more than $2000 but I guess if you want to play, you've got to pay.  Anywho, Me and the Mrs. are happy and I think we did OK.  Now if I could keep those gas bills from coming!


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## Fire Bug (Jan 13, 2009)

Hi Trafic,
 DiDo on the gas bills.
 I sometimes wonder if I should of kept my woodburner downstairs in my rec room and just had the gas insert upstairs in the living room. 
 Na, the wood burner threw fatastic, dry heat, but it was a real pain. The work involved with it was got to be just a little too much. Plus, it wasn't a constant heat and if you went out someplace or went to work and came home, it usually was out and the rec room was cold. We wouldn't let it burn when we were gone out because we had one chimney fire and that was enough. 
 The gas stove is so much more conveient but the gas bills are the price you pay for the conveience. 
 The heat from the gas stove is nice, but nothing beats the dry heat of the wood burner. 
 Personally, I think all of these stoves, fireplaces, and inserts are way over priced,IMO, but I guess you are paying for the technology. It seems like the Hearth Industry has become a very huge, lucrative, business.
 It probably wouldn't cost much more to put a whole heating system in the house like I said in my prior post.
 Any how, your and the Mrs. just kick back and enjoy that stove because we have some cold weather comming.

John


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