# Marking wood for where to cut



## mar13 (Jun 2, 2019)

Any tricks out there for how to best  mark wood to the right length? I have a lot of rounds that are 19-22 inches and also 3-4 ft rounds that I would like to cut down to 16 inches. I have a 16 inch measuring stick, but I don't want to keep fumbling between that and the saw after each cut, so I would like to do a bunch of measuring at once.  Chalk?


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## Kevin Weis (Jun 2, 2019)

I use neon colored chalk.  Works for me.


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## EODMSgt (Jun 2, 2019)

Lots of different methods out there. Hatchet & tape measure, Mingo firewood marker, measuring stick, etc. 

Tried just about all of them. I'm currently using something similar to this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H12YL6K/?tag=hearthamazon-20


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## TreePointer (Jun 2, 2019)

EODMSgt said:


> Lots of different methods out there. Hatchet & tape measure, Mingo firewood marker, measuring stick, etc.
> 
> Tried just about all of them. I'm currently using something similar to this:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H12YL6K/?tag=hearthamazon-20




Same here.  A magnetic attachment like the Woodcutter's Helper in your link is my favorite.


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## Mojappa (Jun 2, 2019)

Thankfully I run an 18” bar and know where 18” is from the tip (first bar nut on mine) so I put the tip at the end of the log with the saw parallel to the log, look down at where the nut is in relation to the log, turn saw 90° and make a mark. I make all my marks and then cut. the magnetic attachment seems like a good alternative if you wanted to spend a little money on a solution plus it’s adjustable.


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## CincyBurner (Jun 2, 2019)

I eyeball log length just using chain saw - tip of nose to to a measured reference point of the saw (e.g. one of tensioning nuts, felling site line).
It's quick, and accurate (to within a half inch).
You can maintain your bucking cadence without needing stop to to physically measure and mark, and you can cut out unwanted portions (knots, forks.


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## SpaceBus (Jun 2, 2019)

You will get the hang of it. Most of my rounds are now 18" +/-1", a few are probably +/- 2". Over time I'm sure they will get even more consistent. For now I'm using the tip of bar(not the chain) to the tip of my bucking spikes and that's about 18" with a 20" bar. I'm thinking of trading my saw and spare chains in on a lighter saw at the dealer through, probably with a 16" bar.


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## thewoodlands (Jun 2, 2019)

mar13 said:


> Any tricks out there for how to best  mark wood to the right length? I have a lot of rounds that are 19-22 inches and also 3-4 ft rounds that I would like to cut down to 16 inches. I have a 16 inch measuring stick, but I don't want to keep fumbling between that and the saw after each cut, so I would like to do a bunch of measuring at once.  Chalk?


I have a small 3/4 inch thick board cut to the length I want with a pull cut hand saw I use to mark every log I cut, I started doing that after my wife had a hard time getting a split that was cut longer than the box in when I was at work.


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## SpaceBus (Jun 2, 2019)

thewoodlands said:


> I have a small 3/4 inch thick board cut to the length I want with a pull cut hand saw I use to mark every log I cut, I started doing that after my wife had a hard time getting a split that was cut longer than the box in when I was at work.
> View attachment 244654



I've started checking them before I bring them in, for the same reason.


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## thewoodlands (Jun 2, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> I've started checking them before I bring them in, for the same reason.


She had loaded up on some nice coals so throwing it out the window wasn't happening since it was going pretty good, she got the split in.


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## StihlKicking (Jun 2, 2019)

I use a Sweetgum stick cut to length, spray painted fluorescent orange. I take my stick and the can of spray paint and mark the length of the log before I start bucking it. Adds about 30 secs to the whole process.


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## trguitar (Jun 3, 2019)

I used permanent marker on my bar and cover to mark 18". Very simple and quick.


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## Eureka (Jun 3, 2019)

Stanley FatMax 25' tape measure on my hip and can of orange marking paint in my hand.  The FatMax has a big hook and a strong backbone so it makes it easy quick work for me.  I cut about 15 cords a year.


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## Highbeam (Jun 3, 2019)

I demand precision and efficiency (swiss engineer). I just bucket up two cords of doug fir logs this weekend and used the super awesome mingo marker for exactly 16" lengths (minus the kerf width). It is very fast and precise. These are 30" logs and with proper marks made by just walking the tool down the log I can get my bucking saw going and it barely even idles down between cuts.

Mingo mingo mingo.

Before the mingo, and if the tree, paint can, or weather makes it not work, I will cut a small whip of branch 16" long but small enough to hold in my right hand while running the saw. Measure each round (mark with eye ball) with the stick in my right hand and then bring the branch to the saw trigger handle in my palm and make the cut.


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## maple1 (Jun 3, 2019)

CincyBurner said:


> I eyeball log length just using chain saw - tip of nose to to a measured reference point of the saw (e.g. one of tensioning nuts, felling site line).
> It's quick, and accurate (to within a half inch).
> You can maintain your bucking cadence without needing stop to to physically measure and mark, and you can cut out unwanted portions (knots, forks.



This.


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## mar13 (Jun 3, 2019)

Highbeam said:


> I demand precision and efficiency (swiss engineer). I just bucket up two cords of doug fir logs this weekend and used the super awesome mingo marker for exactly 16" lengths (minus the kerf width). It is very fast and precise. These are 30" logs and with proper marks made by just walking the tool down the log I can get my bucking saw going and it barely even idles down between cuts.
> 
> Mingo mingo mingo.
> 
> Before the mingo, and if the tree, paint can, or weather makes it not work, I will cut a small whip of branch 16" long but small enough to hold in my right hand while running the saw. Measure each round (mark with eye ball) with the stick in my right hand and then bring the branch to the saw trigger handle in my palm and make the cut.



I had to Google around a bit to find that one: http://www.themingomarker.com/

I suppose you get logs dropped off at your place.


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## Highbeam (Jun 3, 2019)

mar13 said:


> I had to Google around a bit to find that one: http://www.themingomarker.com/
> 
> I suppose you get logs dropped off at your place.



Over the years I've done it different ways. The F350 can carry a cord but time is valuable and I need 5 cords per year. Loading and driving the truck added a lot of processing time. Fine if it's free but it's not.

My current favorite is dump truck loads of logs. It's just about 5 cords, cheap, convenient, and it's waste from a tree service or land clearing operation.

Here is this weekend's load. 14' long logs. Going to fill the 2020/2021 half of the shed.


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## mar13 (Jun 3, 2019)

Those actually look like marketable size logs for dimensional lumber (by today's standards).

Around here you can get tanoak logs cleared from the lumber lands (that which they failed to use round-up on) - great wood but only used by biomass plants, firewood, and wildlife.  Eventually I may look into the minimum sized load that can be purchased.  A moderate lumber truck load would overwhelm me and risk crushing my driveway.

Thumbs up on the shed.


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## Highbeam (Jun 3, 2019)

mar13 said:


> Those actually look like marketable size logs for dimensional lumber (by today's standards).



You need a log truck load of marketable logs to make it taking them to the mill. Tree service guys might get two or three of these down and the money is in the removal. Here's the truck. Packed tight I'm hoping for more than 4 cords. This load was delivered 20 miles from his yard for 400$. 

This is what we call "triaxle" loads here in the PNW. A 14' long dump truck. Any bigger than this is a full sized log truck with 34' logs. The east coast people have some really weird log trucks.


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## mar13 (Jun 3, 2019)

Highbeam said:


> You need a log truck load of marketable logs to make it taking them to the mill. Tree service guys might get two or three of these down and the money is in the removal. Here's the truck. Packed tight I'm hoping for more than 4 cords. This load was delivered 20 miles from his yard for 400$.
> 
> This is what we call "triaxle" loads here in the PNW. A 14' long dump truck. Any bigger than this is a full sized log truck with 34' logs. The east coast people have some really weird log trucks.



I understand better after seeing the full log length. I've learned a bit from the forestry students about the log lengths (I forget the technical term) you can get from a tree.  After a certain height, any lumber is used for low quality things like pallets, because of knots, etc. in the wood.


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## maple1 (Jun 3, 2019)

Can't be a triaxle - there's only 2 axles back there.


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## Highbeam (Jun 3, 2019)

maple1 said:


> Can't be a triaxle - there's only 2 axles back there.



Steer axle counts as teh third I guess. Many of these will have drop axles or "bogie" axles. This guy was loaded pretty heavy since the logs were green. Made lots of dents in my lawn! A proper triaxle log truck from the east coast wood have a boom I think to minimize the dump damage and stack them in a smaller place.

I'll start another thread for my weekend adventure so as not to take this one over. I


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## mar13 (Jun 3, 2019)

Highbeam said:


> Steer axle counts as teh third I guess. Many of these will have drop axles or "bogie" axles. This guy was loaded pretty heavy since the logs were green. Made lots of dents in my lawn! A proper triaxle log truck from the east coast wood have a boom I think to minimize the dump damage and stack them in a smaller place.
> 
> I'll start another thread for my weekend adventure so as not to take this one over. I



That's fine.  I'm the OP and I think it was dying out, anyway.   I did notice your nice lawn and wondered about the truck & log dump.

As for log lengths of doug fir, some people think long and hard about it: 
http://www.westernforesteconomists.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Pilkerton.pdf


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## johneh (Jun 3, 2019)

This is the first load of 2 
it is sugar maple and some red oak approx 8 cord 
This is what I cut last winter . The saw logs have been remove 
and this is what has no value for lumber . The second load 
will be sugar maple red oak and a little beach They come on a 
tandem log truck with a grapple Delivery Cost 100 dollars a load 
40 kilometers  round trip


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## maple1 (Jun 3, 2019)

Highbeam said:


> Steer axle counts as teh third I guess. Many of these will have drop axles or "bogie" axles. This guy was loaded pretty heavy since the logs were green. Made lots of dents in my lawn! A proper triaxle log truck from the east coast wood have a boom I think to minimize the dump damage and stack them in a smaller place.
> 
> I'll start another thread for my weekend adventure so as not to take this one over. I



That truck here would just be called a tandem.

'A tandem load'.


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## Simonkenton (Jun 3, 2019)

I use 16 inch wood and I have a 20 inch bar.  I made a mark with Majic marker 16 inches from the tip of the bar, a big black mark right across the bar.  I just lay the bar on the log, at the mark, and I see where the end of the bar is and start sawing. I don't actually mark the log.  I wind up with pieces from 15 1/2 to 16 1/2.  It doesn't have to be exact.


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## StihlKicking (Jun 8, 2019)

maple1 said:


> That truck here would just be called a tandem.
> 
> 'A tandem load'.



Down here we call them 10 wheelers.


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## ben94122 (Jun 11, 2019)

I have a zip tie on the chainsaw handle, cut to length. I line up the end of the zip tie with the end of the log being bucked, and it puts the bar in the right spot for the next cut. When I'm not bucking, the zip tie folds out of the way.  Only downside is you can only work one direction down the log.


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## ColdNorCal (Jun 13, 2019)

These markers sounds good and are tempting to try. However,


EODMSgt said:


> Lots of different methods out there. Hatchet & tape measure, Mingo firewood marker, measuring stick, etc.
> 
> Tried just about all of them. I'm currently using something similar to this:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H12YL6K/?tag=hearthamazon-20



Looks simple enough, for me the more basic the better, and easy to use.  Just read this review and it made me laugh:

"Installed as shown in picture, popped off very first cut and ended up in chain. Absolute waste of money."

Update:

Just saw this. Seems like buying the correct size coupler would work Then need a plastic rod the right size. This seems good because its always away from the chain and bar and out of the way.


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## EODMSgt (Jun 13, 2019)

ColdNorCal said:


> These markers sounds good and are tempting to try. However,
> 
> 
> Looks simple enough, for me the more basic the better, and easy to use.  Just read this review and it made me laugh:
> ...




I agree, keep it simple. I used the Mingo Marker primarily last year and I still have it for a back up, however I prefer this magnetic stick for the time being. I've never had it come off and get caught in the chain. If that happens to someone, I don't think I would want to be around that person when they're using a chainsaw as they obviously aren't paying attention. Pop it on, walk down the log and mark the cuts, take it off and start cutting.

I looked at the other one you mentioned and passed. Due to where a lot of the timber I cut is situated, I'm often switching sides to have access so I like the flexibility of the magnetic rod to be able to be used on either side of the bar.


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## SpaceBus (Jun 13, 2019)

EODMSgt said:


> I agree, keep it simple. I used the Mingo Marker primarily last year and I still have it for a back up, however I prefer this magnetic stick for the time being. I've never had it come off and get caught in the chain. If that happens to someone, I don't think I would want to be around that person when they're using a chainsaw as they obviously aren't paying attention. Pop it on, walk down the log and mark the cuts, take it off and start cutting.
> 
> I looked at the other one you mentioned and passed. Due to where a lot of the timber I cut is situated, I'm often switching sides to have access so I like the flexibility of the magnetic rod to be able to be used on either side of the bar.



What did you dislike about the Mingo? My wife and I dislike the idea of paint, but it looks pretty convenient. I like the idea of your magnetic stick as well.


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## EODMSgt (Jun 13, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> What did you dislike about the Mingo? My wife and I dislike the idea of paint, but it looks pretty convenient. I like the idea of your magnetic stick as well.



Just kind of quirky to me when using it out in the woods. You have to be careful handling the thing or it will inadvertently spray paint on the ground, on you, in the truck, etc....(doesn't take much pressure from the wheel to fire off the spray nozzle), lost the wing nut once, PITA using it on anything that isn't relatively flat and straight, one more bulky thing to carry into the woods. I used mine a lot and still like the overall concept however for something to carry into the woods, I much prefer the ease and simplicity of the magnetic stick.


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## SpaceBus (Jun 13, 2019)

EODMSgt said:


> Just kind of quirky to me when using it out in the woods. You have to be careful handling the thing or it will inadvertently spray paint on the ground, on you, in the truck, etc....(doesn't take much pressure from the wheel to fire off the spray nozzle), lost the wing nut once, PITA using it on anything that isn't relatively flat and straight, one more bulky thing to carry into the woods. I used mine a lot and still like the overall concept however for something to carry into the woods, I much prefer the ease and simplicity of the magnetic stick.



Yeah, I'm clumsy enough with all of my PPE on, much less adding any more to that.


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## TreePointer (Jun 13, 2019)

EODMSgt said:


> Just kind of quirky to me when using it out in the woods. You have to be careful handling the thing or it will inadvertently spray paint on the ground, on you, in the truck, etc....(doesn't take much pressure from the wheel to fire off the spray nozzle), lost the wing nut once, PITA using it on anything that isn't relatively flat and straight, one more bulky thing to carry into the woods. I used mine a lot and still like the overall concept however for something to carry into the woods, I much prefer the ease and simplicity of the magnetic stick.



I totally agree.  It's just about a perfect device for marking, say, a truckload of straighter logs.

I acquired one years ago for working on hardwood treetops left from a timber harvest.  It worked well on the straighter sections, but it was more difficult to use on smaller branching sections


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## TreePointer (Jun 13, 2019)

*TAP-AND-CUT *= my favorite log marker that I've never tried, lol!

I've actually been holding onto the parts to make one but just never made the time to construct one.


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## SpaceBus (Jun 13, 2019)

TreePointer said:


> *TAP-AND-CUT *= my favorite log marker that I've never tried, lol!
> 
> I've actually been holding onto the parts to make one but just never made the time to construct one.




Interesting. So far finding out what is 18" on the saw and flipping it back and forth has been the most accurate for me. The 346 makes this even easier than the 460.


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## Ashful (Jun 13, 2019)

TreePointer said:


> *TAP-AND-CUT *= my favorite log marker that I've never tried, lol!
> 
> I've actually been holding onto the parts to make one but just never made the time to construct one.




I’m faster with a measuring stick in one hand and my top handle saw in the other.  Just gotta keep your hands straight, or your buddies will have to give you a new nickname.


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## SpaceBus (Jun 13, 2019)

Ashful said:


> I’m faster with a measuring stick in one hand and my top handle saw in the other.  Just gotta keep your hands straight, or your buddies will have to give you a new nickname.


I try to resist the urge to use my top handle saw one handed. Your joke about nicknames keeps me in line.


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## TreePointer (Jun 13, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> Interesting. So far finding out what is 18" on the saw and flipping it back and forth has been the most accurate for me. The 346 makes this even easier than the 460.



Heh, I do the same thing!  

On my 346XP, from the tip of my 16" bar to the center of the first bar nut is 16".

On a larger saw that wears a 20" bar, there are Sharpie lines at 16" and 18".


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## vtcamp (Jun 14, 2019)

Mingo all day! Thing is genius 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mar13 (Jun 14, 2019)

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/tap-and-cut-firewood-marker.259758/

Here's a discussion about making a tap and cut.


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## Slocum (Jun 15, 2019)

I use the Mingo. Fast and easy!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Kevin Weis (Jun 17, 2019)

I'm still going with measuring stick and chalk.  Measure up the whole thing first and just cut away.


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## Bushels20 (Jun 18, 2019)

Didn’t read the whole thread so may be repeating.

I cut one perfect round. Split it. Then take one split from the perfectly cut 16 inch round, hold it to the rest of my logs and mark them all with orange spray paint. I do this in large enough quantities that I can cut for a couple hours.

I’ve found through the years that if I don’t cut it all, the spray paint stays on and the chalk washes off in the rain.


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## MTASH (Jun 18, 2019)

Simonkenton said:


> I use 16 inch wood and I have a 20 inch bar.  I made a mark with Majic marker 16 inches from the tip of the bar, a big black mark right across the bar.  I just lay the bar on the log, at the mark, and I see where the end of the bar is and start sawing. I don't actually mark the log.  I wind up with pieces from 15 1/2 to 16 1/2.  It doesn't have to be exact.



I switched to this method this year and now prefer it.


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## SpaceBus (Jun 21, 2019)

Bushels20 said:


> Didn’t read the whole thread so may be repeating.
> 
> I cut one perfect round. Split it. Then take one split from the perfectly cut 16 inch round, hold it to the rest of my logs and mark them all with orange spray paint. I do this in large enough quantities that I can cut for a couple hours.
> 
> I’ve found through the years that if I don’t cut it all, the spray paint stays on and the chalk washes off in the rain.



This sounds like the best one yet.


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## moresnow (Jun 21, 2019)

Magnetic rod in my back pocket. Work down the log with the limb saw. Get to the end and attach the magnetic rod. Make cut marks on the way back down the log. Drop off the limb saw and grab the big saw. Away we go. All limbed and marked. Good to go. Just the routine I've gotten to prefer. The uniformity is amazing. It really shows up when stacking. To each his own


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## Bushels20 (Jun 21, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> This sounds like the best one yet.




It works well for me. You will find on here that some people are perfectionist (like myself) and others don’t much care about their wood length being the same on each cut. Either way is completely fine. I just found over the years that I didn’t like the occasional inconvenience of that one piece that didn’t quite fit in the insert. 

Also, I find it easier to stack consistently and more sturdy cords with splits that are all the same. 

That said, I’m sure there is a margin of error, even in the system I use.


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## Ashful (Jun 21, 2019)

moresnow said:


> Magnetic rod in my back pocket. Work down the log with the limb saw. Get to the end and attach the magnetic rod. Make cut marks on the way back down the log. Drop off the limb saw and grab the big saw. Away we go. All limbed and marked. Good to go. Just the routine I've gotten to prefer. The uniformity is amazing. It really shows up when stacking. To each his own



This is precisely my method, except I use a bright orange painted stick in place of the magnetic measuring stick.  Mark with the little 435T top handle saw, buck with the 85cc Stihl 064.

If you want to talk about improving thruput, we should be talking more about your cutting hardware, than marking.  Big horsepower behind a small bar allows one to take the depth gauges down below stock height, and vastly improve cutting speed.  The 85cc Stihl 064 I’m running today runs circles around the 50 - 60 cc saws most firewood cutters use today, with any length of bar, by more than enough margin to make up for any differences in the time we take to mark out a log.


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## SpaceBus (Jun 21, 2019)

Ashful said:


> This is precisely my method, except I use a bright orange painted stick in place of the magnetic measuring stick.  Mark with the little 435T top handle saw, buck with the 85cc Stihl 064.
> 
> If you want to talk about improving thruput, we should be talking more about your cutting hardware, than marking.  Big horsepower behind a small bar allows one to take the depth gauges down below stock height, and vastly improve cutting speed.  The 85cc Stihl 064 I’m running today runs circles around the 50 - 60 cc saws most firewood cutters use today, with any length of bar, by more than enough margin to make up for any differences in the time we take to mark out a log.


About a week ago I marked several logs with my Stihl 150-TC (light chainsaw I could find) by using the tip of the bar and a mark on the case as a reference. Once everything was limbed and marked I used the heavy 460 to buck. This is better than a hatchet or flipping the 460 back and forth. A can of spraypaint and my marking rod would probably be even less energy used, but spray paint isn't free, but neither is wear and tear on my chainsaws for marking purposes. I tried using a hatchet but I really wore myself out doing that with several logs. Some day I'm sure I'll find the system that works best for me.


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## Highbeam (Jun 21, 2019)

This has been a good thread. I'll agree with @Ashful about a large displacement, heavy, bucking saw with a short bar or just using a small part of a large bar makes the whole cutting part of this chore very fast. I moved up from a 290 stihl to a 64cc pro saw and cutting is the shortest and most fun part of the whole firewood processing job!

That feeling of someone shooting your thigh with a garden hose but really it's just the fountain of chips.


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## TreePointer (Jun 21, 2019)

Highbeam said:


> This has been a good thread. I'll agree with @Ashful about a large displacement, heavy, bucking saw with a short bar or just using a small part of a large bar makes the whole cutting part of this chore very fast. I moved up from a 290 stihl to a 64cc pro saw and cutting is the shortest and most fun part of the whole firewood processing job!
> 
> That feeling of someone shooting your thigh with a garden hose but really it's just the fountain of chips.



I think there are a lot Stihl 290 graduates here, myself included.

And I know I had a lot of fun when I find that wood chips made it into my pockets and somehow even into my wallet.


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## Ashful (Jun 22, 2019)

I’m just about ready to be done with my 63cc pro saw.  It is underpowered for the majority of what I do, so I’ve gotten to the point where I really just use the 85cc saw for pretty much all my cutting.

I’m at the point where I’m starting to question why I even own anything under 75cc, and starting to think my ideal setup would be a top handle, an MS 661 for 90% of my bucking, and an MS 44x for the small stuff.


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## Sawset (Jun 22, 2019)

Ashful said:


> This is precisely my method, except I use a bright orange painted stick in place of the magnetic measuring stick.  Mark with the little 435T top handle saw, buck with the 85cc Stihl 064.
> 
> If you want to talk about improving thruput, we should be talking more about your cutting hardware, than marking.  Big horsepower behind a small bar allows one to take the depth gauges down below stock height, and vastly improve cutting speed.  The 85cc Stihl 064 I’m running today runs circles around the 50 - 60 cc saws most firewood cutters use today, with any length of bar, by more than enough margin to make up for any differences in the time we take to mark out a log.


It seems the most popular size saw for the loggers and fellers types are in the 75-85cc range. Most firewood cutters, 50cc range. Verging from one to the other would warrant the equipment outlay. Thinking most firewood guys aren't interested in going to that level. I can see the advantage of not sitting there waiting for a 50cc to get its job done. On the other hand, I'm more than willing to be patient considering the cost and upkeep to upgrade and maintain something larger. It would be nice to have a big honkin saw, enjoy the feeling, then for all the time saved it would sit for the other 11-1/2mo of the year.


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## Woody Stover (Jun 22, 2019)

Sawset said:


> It would be nice to have a big honkin saw, enjoy the feeling, then for all the time saved it would sit for the other 11-1/2mo of the year.


If you cut your own trees, picking your way through the brush, smaller is better. I have an MS460 for falling big ones, but I trim and buck smaller limbs with a MS170, then at 10" or so I grab the 261. Might be a little slower my way but it's a lot easier than horsing a big saw when you don't need to. I have even been experimenting with a semi-chisel chain on the 261..they seem to stay sharp longer. Yeah, big saws and chisel chain eat through the rounds quickly but those long chains take a while to sharpen, negating any time savings for me. Anyhow, more of my time is spent hauling, splitting and stacking, not to mention elevating pallets on concrete blocks and covering stacks. I need a couple of permanent roofs to stack under, if I can come up with a somewhat flat area that isn't too far from the house..


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## SpaceBus (Jun 22, 2019)

Woody Stover said:


> If you cut your own trees, picking your way through the brush, smaller is better. I have an MS460 for falling big ones, but I trim and buck smaller limbs with a MS170, then at 10" or so I grab the 261. Might be a little slower my way but it's a lot easier than horsing a big saw when you don't need to. I have even been experimenting with a semi-chisel chain on the 261..they seem to stay sharp longer. Yeah, big saws and chisel chain eat through the rounds quickly but those long chains take a while to sharpen, negating any time savings for me. Anyhow, more of my time is spent hauling, splitting and stacking, not to mention elevating pallets on concrete blocks and covering stacks. I need a couple of permanent roofs to stack under, if I can come up with a somewhat flat area that isn't too far from the house..



This is where I'm at. 60+cc saws are too big for more confined areas. I do most of my cutting in the woods and my Husky 460 is a boat anchor out there in the brush. I wish the used 346 I snagged didn't die, but I'm going to give it a second life.


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## Ashful (Jun 22, 2019)

I guess our woods aren’t as “bushy”.  Never had an issue with little saws holding any advantage over big saws, here.  Other than price tag, that is.


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## SpaceBus (Jun 22, 2019)

Ashful said:


> I guess our woods aren’t as “bushy”.  Never had an issue with little saws holding any advantage over big saws, here.  Other than price tag, that is.


My woods are thick with saplings and new growth. The property we owned was logged in the 70's. Old growth or even just a mature forest would be easier to deal with.


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## Sawset (Jun 22, 2019)

Someone said once:
"every saw is a favorite saw at some point"
I'm on my third. Its, of course, now my  favorite saw. Of course it is. Who knows, that could change. I distinctly remember the one my dad had from the 50s. Heavy, thick and oily chain, lots of oil, cast metal everything. It was his favorite.
Anyway - I mark my cuts with the second nut on the chain cover with an 18" bar, gives me around 20-21". The stove handles 23", so I'm usually good to go. Split up the 6 cord or so this spring, with 4pc that will need a quick cut to length redo. I'm not too particular about it. It seems there are so many knots and curves and ybranched pcs that it's tough to be overly accurate.


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## Ashful (Jun 23, 2019)

Sawset said:


> Someone said once:
> "every saw is a favorite saw at some point"
> I'm on my third. Its, of course, now my  favorite saw. Of course it is.


Maybe that’s because most folks trade up, not down.  I’ve owned eight or ten saws, and my favorite is still the old 064, which was purchased before half the others.  The reason is simple, it is the most powerful saw in the fleet, at only a scant pound or two over the mid-size (63cc) saw.


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## Woody Stover (Jun 24, 2019)

Ashful said:


> I guess our woods aren’t as “bushy”.  Never had an issue with little saws holding any advantage over big saws, here.  Other than price tag, that is.


You just cut up log loads in your yard, right?
We aren't buying saws according to how much they cost, but how well they work in our cutting situations.
But I agree, a little top-handle is what I'm missing. That would make limbing, and bucking 4" branches, a breeze...one free hand to hold 'em in place.


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## Ashful (Jun 24, 2019)

Woody Stover said:


> You just cut up log loads in your yard, right?
> We aren't buying saws according to how much they cost, but how well they work in our cutting situations.
> But I agree, a little top-handle is what I'm missing. That would make limbing, and bucking 4" branches, a breeze...one free hand to hold 'em in place.



Nope, I harvest all of my own, from two wooded properties.  I fell, limb, and buck to 15 foot lengths, skid them out of the woods behind a tractor, and then drag them onto a tandem axle trailer with a winch.  At home I drag the logs off the trailer, buck to 18 inch lengths, split, and stack.

One reason I might not mind the weight of the larger saw as much as others is that I’m never carrying it into the woods very far.  I load everything into the loader bucket on the tractor, and park that near where I’m working.


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## Woody Stover (Jun 24, 2019)

Ashful said:


> I harvest all of my own, from two wooded properties.  I fell, limb, and buck to 15 foot lengths, skid them out of the woods behind a tractor


OK, I just remember a pic of logs that you were processing in the stacking area. About the same thing as a log load though..you are doing the bulk of the bucking in a clear area, and probably positioning the logs where they are easy to cut holding a big saw in a comfortable position.
I have a quad and small trailer. I buck almost everything to length, right where the tree falls. To make those cuts, I have to dodge a lot of saplings, make some cuts from underneath the log, hold the saw in awkward positions and so on. Trying to maneuver a big saw in those conditions is a lot of work, so I'm using the MS 261 with 20" bar whenever I can, which is most of the time. I'm seldom dropping a dead one or bucking one that has already fallen, that is over 2' in diameter.


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## Highbeam (Jun 24, 2019)

Woody Stover said:


> OK, I just remember a pic of logs that you were processing in the stacking area. About the same thing as a log load though..you are doing the bulk of the bucking in a clear area, and probably positioning the logs where they are easy to cut holding a big saw in a comfortable position.
> I have a quad and small trailer. I buck almost everything to length, right where the tree falls. To make those cuts, I have to dodge a lot of saplings, make some cuts from underneath the log, hold the saw in awkward positions and so on. Trying to maneuver a big saw in those conditions is a lot of work, so I'm using the MS 261 with 20" bar whenever I can, which is most of the time. I'm seldom dropping a dead one or bucking one that has already fallen, that is over 2' in diameter.



And I recall @Ashful is cutting some larger diameter logs which certainly makes a difference. There's a reason that Stihl makes the medium sized pro 260. It's a great saw for that small wood application. I have done some limbing work in the brush with my dolmar 64 and it is awkward, heavy, and more dangerous than the more appropriate little saw would be. The big saw really is meant for falling and bucking in my experience.

Something occurred to me from a post above. If I make a bucking length mistake on a 36" log I have maybe 30 splits that are screwed up. Several days of heating fuel are on the line. If you are cutting 6" pecker poles then a screwed up cut is only a couple of splits.


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## Ashful (Jun 24, 2019)

Yep, I am doing most of the bucking right next to the splitter, and plenty of room to cut.  Also, the majority of my wood has been coming from large trees (40” diameter stuff) the last few years.  I run a 28” bar on the 85cc saw 99% of the time, and I’m still having to cut from both sides to get thru.

The 63 cc saw has a 20” bar, and would struggle any time I was cutting something over 18” diameter, where the nose ends up in the cut.  Since I had two 20” bars and at least ten loops of 20” chain, I didn’t want to re-tool to 18”, so I just put some big felling dogs on that saw to shorten the exposed bar length by an inch.  The saw does much better with the effective 19” of bar, but still nowhere near as fast as the 85cc saw with a 28” bar.

I don’t get to cut a whole lot of smaller stuff, since I leave anything more manageable for the property owner of the place where I cut.  Every cut really counts when you’re working on anything big, as highbeam already noted.  I have had single rounds yield a quarter of a cord, back when I was cutting 20” lengths.


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## Highbeam (Jun 24, 2019)

Highbeam said:


> Something occurred to me from a post above. If I make a bucking length mistake on a 36" log I have maybe 30 splits that are screwed up. Several days of heating fuel are on the line. If you are cutting 6" pecker poles then a screwed up cut is only a couple of splits.



I was off by a lot. Had to do the math. If I'm getting 4"x4" splits then I get 64 of those per 36" diameter round. That's a weeks worth of heating for each round! Take the time to measure carefully.


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## SpaceBus (Jun 24, 2019)

You guys bring up some fair points. My property has few trees that would require a larger saw. We have a small number of trees that will actually require me to break out the 395, but everything else is 50cc territory.


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## Bushels20 (Jun 24, 2019)

This is where I am. I run an MS 261c. Gets the job done. I have a friend who owns a tree company and my deliveries are free, right beside the stacks. 

I would love to have a large saw, but in reality, it would be cool to say I have one and it would get occasional use and collect dust. 

My next purchase will probably be a Farm Boss with a 20” bar; once the 261 craps out.


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## Ashful (Jun 24, 2019)

Bushels20 said:


> I would love to have a large saw, but in reality, it would be cool to say I have one and it would get occasional use and collect dust.


No, it's not about bragging rights, at least not for everyone.

If you allow yourself to enjoy it, life is full of stuff that you never really "needed", but then eventually wonder how you lived without it all these years.  I remember feeling that way about smart phones, heated seats, and even the silly little back-up cameras in all of my newer vehicles.  I have an elderly uncle who still feels that way about indoor plumbing and central heating.

Big saws can be one of those things, especially for horsepower junkies.  Once you allow yourself the pleasure of running one, you may have trouble turning back.

BTW... back-up cameras may be the greatest invention since the wheel itself, for those of us who frequently pull trailers!


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## TreePointer (Jun 25, 2019)

Most folks I know don't "need" a large displacement saw, but those who encounter big wood actually can increase safety with a big saw that can pull a long chain.

1. Small saws require you to work from both sides to drop a large tree or buck a big log, but sometimes one side presents too many hazards and you must cut from only the other side. Big saws with long bars can solve many issues of this type

2. Small saws require more skill and knowledge to drop large trees (Bore cuts, fan cuts, other techniques)

3. The general rule is that you don't want to linger under the canopy or close to a trunk longer than necessary, and dropping a large tree takes longer with a small saw. (This is also a reason why you want to cut with a sharp chain.)

* * * * *
In addition, making stumps can be difficult with lower displacement saws. The more torque the better!

In another scenario, say you have an 18-20" cherry or oak trunk to buck.  Many smaller saws (even some 60cc saws in my experience) will bog when close to burying the bar, so you have to ease up/feather it.  When I have a big job to do with larger wood like this, I only have so much time to get it done, and a big saw is just the ticket.


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## Ashful (Jul 4, 2019)

Did some cutting and splitting today, 92F heat index, but I was able to mostly stay in the shade.  Took a moment to demonstrate why the 63cc saw just doesn’t keep up with the 85cc saw.  This log is red oak, and that’s a 20 inch bar.


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## johneh (Jul 4, 2019)

Nice Wood !! 
I do not need a saw that big 
on my property there are no trees 
That big or even close . It was clear cut in 1860 
so I am not in need of anything over a 20 in 50 cc saw 
It will do every thing I need it to do 
But wow I see why you do


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## SpaceBus (Jul 4, 2019)

Ashful said:


> Did some cutting and splitting today, 92F heat index, but I was able to mostly stay in the shade.  Took a moment to demonstrate why the 63cc saw just doesn’t keep up with the 85cc saw.  This log is red oak, and that’s a 20 inch bar.
> 
> View attachment 245472



If I had stuff like that to cut frequently then a 75-85cc saw would have a place I my collection. As it is the rare large logs will be handled by my 395xp.


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## Ashful (Jul 4, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> If I had stuff like that to cut frequently then a 75-85cc saw would have a place I my collection. As it is the rare large logs will be handled by my 395xp.


Awww... chit, guys.  That log is only 30" diameter!  There are some years where it feels like I never get anything under 40" diameter.

Here's a white oak that was 60" diameter at felling height, but unfortunately hollow down there.  The largest rounds (like the one on the left) from this tree were 49" diameter, that's a 36" bar on the Stihl 064, for reference:




Here's my cutting buddy dragging one of my catches out of the woods.  I normally cut to 15' foot lengths (largest multiple of 18" that will fit on my 16' trailer with tailgate closed), but I had to cut this one to 7.5 feet to get it down to skidding weight.




Here's the lower half of that one:




This is back before I had the winch on the trailer, and I used to have to buck everything into rounds to load on the trailer by hand.  Sometimes a round would be so heavy (> 1000 lb.) that I'd have to noodle the rounds into slabs it just to get them onto the trailer.  Knowing I used to cut to 20" lengths, I'm guessing this round is close to 40" diameter:




This stump wasn't standing up when I cut it, the tree had been up-rooted.  I don't recall the diameter, but it's big enough to make that big 85cc saw with 28" bar sitting atop it look like a 50cc toy.




Here's the small stuff I left behind for the property owner one day, after loading my trailer.  I cut and he skids, I take the big and leave the small.  So, this was about half of what I had cut on that day, which is why having a big fast saw matters!




Can't find my favorite photo, one of my first big and challenging tree falls, will post it if I can find it.  It's the reason I went out and bought a 36" bar, immediately after that project.


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## mar13 (Jul 5, 2019)

Ashful said:


> Awww... chit, guys.  That log is only 30" diameter!  There are some years where it feels like I never get anything under 40" diameter.
> 
> Here's a white oak that was 60" diameter at felling height, but unfortunately hollow down there.  The largest rounds (like the one on the left) from this tree were 49" diameter, that's a 36" bar on the Stihl 064, for reference:
> 
> ...


How old are these larger oaks? Rare or common out in your parts?


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## SpaceBus (Jul 5, 2019)

Ashful said:


> Awww... chit, guys.  That log is only 30" diameter!  There are some years where it feels like I never get anything under 40" diameter.
> 
> Here's a white oak that was 60" diameter at felling height, but unfortunately hollow down there.  The largest rounds (like the one on the left) from this tree were 49" diameter, that's a 36" bar on the Stihl 064, for reference:
> 
> ...


I think you've posted the skidding pic before. That's a lot of wood! A single tree that big would probably heat my house for most of the winter. Especially after we finish rebuilding the house with more modern insulation and stuff.


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## Ashful (Jul 5, 2019)

mar13 said:


> How old are these larger oaks? Rare or common out in your parts?


You know, I’ve never had the patience to count rings on one of these.  I know the one white oak that was 60” at felling height came from the yard of a church built in the 1730’s, and was large enough that they were already holding picnics in its shade 180 years ago, according to church records.

I would say 30” to 40” ash and oak are very common here.  Much larger than 40” is getting pretty uncommon, but they’re around.

Thinking of this thread, I just snapped this photo on my way to drop the kids off at day camp this morning.  I’ve been driving past dozens of scenes like this, since we had a little tornado activity at the end of May.


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## MissMac (Jul 6, 2019)

Highbeam said:


> I demand precision and efficiency (swiss engineer). I just bucket up two cords of doug fir logs this weekend and used the super awesome mingo marker for exactly 16" lengths (minus the kerf width). It is very fast and precise. These are 30" logs and with proper marks made by just walking the tool down the log I can get my bucking saw going and it barely even idles down between cuts.
> 
> Mingo mingo mingo.
> 
> Before the mingo, and if the tree, paint can, or weather makes it not work, I will cut a small whip of branch 16" long but small enough to hold in my right hand while running the saw. Measure each round (mark with eye ball) with the stick in my right hand and then bring the branch to the saw trigger handle in my palm and make the cut.


Any concerns about that paint coming out of the mingo mucking up your catalyst in your stove?


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## Highbeam (Jul 6, 2019)

MissMac said:


> Any concerns about that paint coming out of the mingo mucking up your catalyst in your stove?



It makes a dot of paint. Then I blow a 3/8” wide slot through that with the saw. It’s a small amount of paint per round. I would worry more about the bar oil. 

So no not worried about the paint dot mucking anything up.


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## Bushels20 (Jul 7, 2019)

MissMac said:


> Any concerns about that paint coming out of the mingo mucking up your catalyst in your stove?




Season that wood correctly and to standard and that bark with paint on it will just fall off


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## MissMac (Jul 7, 2019)

Highbeam said:


> It makes a dot of paint. Then I blow a 3/8” wide slot through that with the saw. It’s a small amount of paint per round. I would worry more about the bar oil.
> 
> So no not worried about the paint dot mucking anything up.


sounds good highbeam - i've heard some of the guys on the BK thread talk a lot about poisoning the cat, so wasn't sure how uptight people were actually being in real life


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## SpaceBus (Jul 7, 2019)

Highbeam said:


> It makes a dot of paint. Then I blow a 3/8” wide slot through that with the saw. It’s a small amount of paint per round. I would worry more about the bar oil.
> 
> So no not worried about the paint dot mucking anything up.



Bar and chain oil are pretty nasty so I switched to canola oil. It's probably better for the environment than conventional fossil fuel oil, but I really just prefer the smell. I also hate petrochemicals


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## Ashful (Jul 7, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> I also hate petrochemicals


That's damn near one of my four basic food groups!  If you say you hate bourbon, we may never speak again.


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## SpaceBus (Jul 7, 2019)

Ashful said:


> That's damn near one of my four basic food groups!  If you say you hate bourbon, we may never speak again.


Why am I not surprised 

You don't have to worry about the bourbon. In a different life I drank more bourbon than water.


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## mar13 (Jul 9, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> Bar and chain oil are pretty nasty so I switched to canola oil. It's probably better for the environment than conventional fossil fuel oil, but I really just prefer the smell. I also hate petrochemicals


So then does your vehicle run on biodiesel? The exhaust has a hint of French fries.


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## neverbilly (Jul 9, 2019)

EODMSgt said:


> Lots of different methods out there. Hatchet & tape measure, Mingo firewood marker, measuring stick, etc.
> 
> Tried just about all of them. I'm currently using something similar to this:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H12YL6K/?tag=hearthamazon-20



That fiberglass stick lasted about three days for me, got broken.

I just measure what 16 inches is on the bar of my chainsaws and note where it is. You could even paint a dot or line on the saw. I then manually measure by turning the saw sideways to determine 16 inches length.


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## SpaceBus (Jul 9, 2019)

mar13 said:


> So then does your vehicle run on biodiesel? The exhaust has a hint of French fries.


I wish! Unfortunately I'm still a slave to the gulf man.


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## three feathers (Aug 7, 2019)

The older I get, the smaller my saw get. Funny how a 066 gets heavier as we get older.


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## Ashful (Aug 7, 2019)

three feathers said:


> The older I get, the smaller my saw get. Funny how a 066 gets heavier as we get older.



An 066 ain’t a small saw!  What were you running before, 084?!?

I love my 064, it’s the perfect power to weight ratio for me, but I’m still in my 40’s.  It is fun watching some of my older buddies try to start the thing, they tell me it’s going to tear their shoulder out, you gotta pull those things like you want to hurt ‘em!


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## Matt78 (Dec 26, 2019)

mar13 said:


> Any tricks out there for how to best  mark wood to the right length? I have a lot of rounds that are 19-22 inches and also 3-4 ft rounds that I would like to cut down to 16 inches. I have a 16 inch measuring stick, but I don't want to keep fumbling between that and the saw after each cut, so I would like to do a bunch of measuring at once.  Chalk?



I use a piece of small diameter pvc pipe cut to 18" long and spray paint. Done this the last two years. It does make stacking easier. I would like to get the mingo, but $50 is steep for a piece of plastic!


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## Woody Stover (Dec 26, 2019)

Matt78 said:


> I use a piece of small diameter pvc pipe cut to 18" long and spray paint.


I would be hesitant to get paint into my cat stove for fear of poisoning the combustor..


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## SpaceBus (Dec 26, 2019)

Woody Stover said:


> I would be hesitant to get paint into my cat stove for fear of poisoning the combustor..


They make water soluble and other types of spray markers that *shouldn't* cause issues


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## Woody Stover (Dec 26, 2019)

I know where 16" is on all my bars, so I sometimes measure as I go if the trunk is gonna roll. If it's gonna stay put, I use a tape measure and mark with a hatchet or chalk.


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## SpaceBus (Dec 26, 2019)

Woody Stover said:


> I know where 16" is on all my bars, so I sometimes measure as I go if the trunk is gonna roll. If it's gonna stay put, I use a tape measure and mark with a hatchet or chalk.


I was using a hatchet, but that felt like more work than just turning the saw every so often.


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## Montanalocal (Dec 26, 2019)

I carry a small short hand pruning saw and use it with my measuring stick to make a quick back and forth cut as I walk down the log.  Takes just a few min, and feels to me like much less work that lifting and turning my saw every cut, especially if I am using my big saw on larger wood.  It is also a permanent mark, if I have to come back and it has rained.  Markers and chalk gum up when things are wet.


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## Matt78 (Dec 27, 2019)

Woody Stover said:


> I would be hesitant to get paint into my cat stove for fear of poisoning the combustor..



By the time it gets burned it minimal. I'd say 90% is gone. If bark falls off %100. I use the marker paint.


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## Simonkenton (Dec 27, 2019)

I have a 20 inch bar on my saw.  So, for your wood, I would measure 19 inches on the bar and scratch the bar with a screwdriver.  Scratch the entire width of the bar with a screwdriver or a file, make a mark 1/4 inch wide.
Then make another mark at 16 inches.  Scratches won't hurt the bar and it won't rust as it is always coated with oil.

I tried making a mark with a majic marker and it wore off in an hour.


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## Grizzerbear (Dec 27, 2019)

Simonkenton said:


> I have a 20 inch bar on my saw.  So, for your wood, I would measure 19 inches on the bar and scratch the bar with a screwdriver.  Scratch the entire width of the bar with a screwdriver or a file, make a mark 1/4 inch wide.
> Then make another mark at 16 inches.  Scratches won't hurt the bar and it won't rust as it is always coated with oil.
> 
> I tried making a mark with a majic marker and it wore off in an hour.



This is exactly what i do.  All steps in one tool.


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## byQ (Dec 27, 2019)

I use a piece of 18" cord on the first couple of cuts. After this, I just go by guesstimating. When the wood gets big, I pull the cord out again because as the wood gets bigger an optical illusion occurs and if guesstimating  you will end up with longer rounds - so I recalibrate myself with the bigger stuff - then back to guesstimating.


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## Woody Stover (Dec 27, 2019)

byQ said:


> I use a piece of 18" cord on the first couple of cuts. After this, I just go by guesstimating.


Do you have to cut to 18" for it to fit your masonry rig?


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## CincyBurner (Dec 27, 2019)

Woody Stover said:


> I know where 16" is on all my bars


This is still the easiest, quickest, and it's accurate - use guide bar as measuring tool.
I cut my wood to 20" lengths with a 16" bar.  That comes to the felling sight line on the side of the saw (20" from tip of bar).


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## SpaceBus (Dec 27, 2019)

Woody Stover said:


> Do you have to cut to 18" for it to fit your masonry rig?


I want to know about this masonry rig


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## byQ (Dec 27, 2019)

Here is a picture of the masonry rig buried in doors and wood. At least it is easier to work on the chimney now - I just have to walk up the stairs.

 I think it is a 20" to 22" firebox but I'm not going to move all of that stuff to find out. Plus you can burn wood by loading it vertically (like a tee-pee).


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## Woody Stover (Dec 27, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> I want to know about this masonry rig


Click bQ user name, in the pop-up box click user name again, drop down Find and click "All Threads." MH Puzzling Together is his main one, I think, but others look good too.


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## Simonkenton (Dec 27, 2019)

Grizzerbear said:


> This is exactly what i do.  All steps in one tool.



Anybody who remembers the great quotes from Jeremiah Johnson can't be all bad.  I was 22 when that movie came out in Atlanta in January 1973.  This movie just blew me away, there had never been a film like it.
I decided I wanted to spend the summer living like Jeremiah Johnson.
Two buddies and I spent five months training, we practiced renting horses, making panniers and tying our own diamond hitches.  We bought rifles and practiced shooting, including, of course, a .50 Hawken.
There was nowhere in America that was wild enough, too many fences, so we went to the wilderness of British Columbia and spent the summer up there.  We rented horses and lived in the wilderness.   Lots of Griz near Manson Creek BC but fortunately none ever attacked us.
Fortunately, there were no Crow Indians to throw spears at us.


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## Simonkenton (Dec 27, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> Bar and chain oil are pretty nasty so I switched to canola oil. It's probably better for the environment than conventional fossil fuel oil, but I really just prefer the smell. I also hate petrochemicals



I love the smell of bar oil in the morning!  Seriously I really do.
I also love the smell of 2 stroke oil smoke coming out of my badass Stihl.


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## Gearhead660 (Dec 27, 2019)

Mojappa said:


> Thankfully I run an 18” bar and know where 18” is from the tip (first bar nut on mine) so I put the tip at the end of the log with the saw parallel to the log, look down at where the nut is in relation to the log, turn saw 90° and make a mark. I make all my marks and then cut. the magnetic attachment seems like a good alternative if you wanted to spend a little money on a solution plus it’s adjustable.


Ditto with the bar method.   Don't have OCD so an inch or 2 variance in length doesn't bother me.


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## Grizzerbear (Dec 27, 2019)

Simonkenton said:


> Anybody who remembers the great quotes from Jeremiah Johnson can't be all bad.  I was 22 when that movie came out in Atlanta in January 1973.  This movie just blew me away, there had never been a film like it.
> I decided I wanted to spend the summer living like Jeremiah Johnson.
> Two buddies and I spent five months training, we practiced renting horses, making panniers and tying our own diamond hitches.  We bought rifles and practiced shooting, including, of course, a .50 Hawken.
> There was nowhere in America that was wild enough, too many fences, so we went to the wilderness of British Columbia and spent the summer up there.  We rented horses and lived in the wilderness.   Lots of Griz near Manson Creek BC but fortunately none ever attacked us.
> Fortunately, there were no Crow Indians to throw spears at us.


Wow. I wish i would have had a chance to live like that for a spell....i imagine it was a great experience. Its one of my all time favorites and what got me started into learning to trap.


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## Simonkenton (Dec 27, 2019)

Grizzerbear said:


> Wow. I wish i would have had a chance to live like that for a spell....i imagine it was a great experience. Its one of my all time favorites and what got me started into learning to trap.


"Use the scent, boy.  They won't come in without the scent."


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## Grizzerbear (Dec 27, 2019)

Simonkenton said:


> Use the scent, boy. They won't come in without the scent.



Lol.....of course...."mother gue never raised such a foolish child"


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## Ashful (Dec 27, 2019)

Montanalocal said:


> I carry a small short hand pruning saw and use it with my measuring stick to make a quick back and forth cut as I walk down the log.


This is exactly what I do.  Honestly, I hear others talk about all their convoluted methods, and think they're all just wasting their time.  Nothing beats a measuring stick in one hand with a top-handle saw in the other, as long as you don't cross-up which hand is which.

If you do, your buddies will just have to call you "Leftie", like you call a bald friend Curley or your fat buddy Slim.


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## Mojappa (Dec 27, 2019)

Ashful said:


> This is exactly what I do.  Honestly, I hear others talk about all their convoluted methods, and think they're all just wasting their time.



Using the (Chain)saw you’re cutting with seems pretty cut n dry (pun intended) so long as you know where your desired length ends up being on the saw. You can do it as you go up the log so only one pass is needed. To each their own but having two extra items makes the bucking process more convoluted, to me anyways.


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## Ashful (Dec 27, 2019)

Mojappa said:


> Using the (Chain)saw you’re cutting with seems pretty cut n dry (pun intended) so long as you know where your desired length ends up being on the saw. You can do it as you go up the log so only one pass is needed. To each their own but having two extra items makes the bucking process more convoluted, to me anyways.


You have a point there, for the folks who do their bucking in the woods, and only want to carry one saw with them.  But I always have my top handle with me when I'm in the woods, and I also do all of my measuring and bucking where I split and stack, skidding the logs whole to get them there.

I've tried the "turn and cut" method with my 036 wearing a 20" bar, and it works, but no way is it faster than a measuring stick with the top handle saw.  I can mark out my typical 15 foot logs in just a few seconds, and like getting your deposit back after purchase, the thing I'm marking with is doing some of the cutting.


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## maple1 (Dec 28, 2019)

Mojappa said:


> Using the (Chain)saw you’re cutting with seems pretty cut n dry (pun intended) so long as you know where your desired length ends up being on the saw. You can do it as you go up the log so only one pass is needed. To each their own but having two extra items makes the bucking process more convoluted, to me anyways.



Agreed 100%. Saw already has a measuring stick built in.


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## firefighterjake (Jan 2, 2020)

Bar on the chainsaw . . . it worked when I was a kid sawing wood for Dad and it works now.


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## cesc (Feb 17, 2022)

This is what I use:


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