# Splitter Recomendation - Huskee/Speeco



## fabsroman (Dec 10, 2012)

Thinking about buying a new hydraulic splitter. Have been sharing my dad's, but it is a pain to drive the 30 minutes each way every time I need it. Plus, it is 15 years old and it will be nice to have a backup should that one break like it did last summer.

Anyway, I am thinking about going with the Speeco vertical/horizontal 35 ton Honda powered splitter for around $2,200. The cycle time is 15 seconds on it. Have no idea what the cycle rate is on the MTD Yard Machine 20 ton splitter my dad bought 15 years ago.

Would I be better off getting the 28 ton with a 13 second cycle time? Will I really notice the 2 second difference in cycle time? Most of the time I have been splitting with my dad. Would say about 75% of the time.

Should I be looking at a splitter brand other than Huskee/Speeco?

Am also thinking about a kinetic splitter, but hate thinking about having to lift the logs onto the splitter. Maybe just take them off the truck and onto the splitter somehow.


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## Jags (Dec 10, 2012)

For $2200 I would be looking at Iron and Oak, not speeco/husky.  I have nothing against them but the I & O is a higher quality machine.  And for the record, there isn't much that a 20/22/24 ton unit won't bust up.


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## swagler85 (Dec 10, 2012)

I have a 22 huskee that I have split 40 inch rounds of very knotty pin oak with. Those have a 2 stage pump and work well. Having said that if you are going to spend $220 I would agree with Jags and go with a better splitter.


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## Backwoods Savage (Dec 10, 2012)

I have an MTD that is over 20 years old. It is a 20 ton with a 5hp B&S engine. Trouble free so far and it has split a lot of wood for sure, over 200 cord.

On the cycle time, most times that is not a factor. When one learns the proper way to use the splitter it does not take long to cycle because you simply will not use the entire cycle on most wood splitting. For example, on white ash, most of the time the ram, or wedge, moves less than a foot. I'll let it raise until it gets just a few inches over top of where the next log will be so when I start the split it is just a second or so before the wedge is into the wood. Ash splits easy so many times 2-3 inches is able the furthest into the log we have to go. Sometimes I will let the wedge go all the way back up but not often.

As far as power, the 20 or 22 ton should split all you need. It is just that most consumers have the attitude that bigger is better, so the makers of splitters respond and make bigger machines all the time. But if you want a good splitter without paying out the big dollars... I've never been sorry for buying our $800 splitter.


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## TreePointer (Dec 10, 2012)

I like my Huskee (SpeeCo) 35-ton model, but I got it a few years ago with a 10% off coupon at TSC and before the price jump (paid less than $1500). It was a great value at that price. Now it's closer to $2K, so I'd probably get an I&O or Brave today if I were in the market for a vertical/horizontal splitter.

Within that $2200 budget, I'd be tempted to pull the trigger on an I&O fast cycle model (delivered to your door).


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## amateur cutter (Dec 10, 2012)

I'm with Dennis on the 22 ton machines. Have used one quite a bit, & it split everything we threw at it. I just bought a 27 ton Troy Built through a friend at Lowes. I got a really nice deal, on what appears to be a good machine. It's been raining/miserable here since I got it, so I've only split maybe 1/2 a cord, but I'm real happy so far. I would not go back to a horizontal only splitter unless it had a log lift. I can work longer & be less fatigued with the vertical option than I ever could lifting the 20" plus rounds all day long. Cycle time is as much the operator as machine. I got the 27 ton because that was the best overall deal between price & quality. Remember, the milk crate is your friend. A C


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## Butcher (Dec 10, 2012)

I'm happy with my 22 ton husky but I wunder what 1 of these costs?


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## lukem (Dec 10, 2012)

No need to spend $2200.  It you have $2200 to get rid of buy a huskee 22 ton and a MS460...and a couple cases of beer.


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## MnDave (Dec 10, 2012)

fabsroman said:


> I am thinking about going with the Speeco vertical/horizontal 35 ton Honda powered splitter for around $2,200.



Sounds like an awesome machine.

I bought the 22 ton Speedco/Huskee (whatever) with a 6.5 hp B&S for $1k from TSC.

I saved $100 because I got a TSC credit card.
Interesting story goes with it.
I went in on a Friday and told them I would sign up for a credit card and buy their splitter. I needed to wait a few days for CC approval. They put a sold sign on the splitter. I called on Monday to tell them that my credit was approved and that I was ready to take deliver. They said,"But you already picked up your splitter!?."

Turns out some guy came in and said," I am here to pick up my splitter". Since it had a sold sign on it some "new guy" let it go out the door without checking paper work.

Inside job? Hard to believe they do business that way.

MnDave


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## MasterMech (Dec 11, 2012)

I will say that cycle time matters especially if you split with a 2 man crew and not all your wood separates as nice as white ash. 

$2200 would definitely have me looking at Iron & Oak machines.

There are 3 to consider in this case, IMO.

BHVH2209 - 22 ton, 12 second cycle (keeps the price down a bit and is a real capable machine regardless)
BHVH2609 - 26 ton, 12 second cycle
BHVH2209FC - 22 ton, 8 second cycle

I will say I am _very_ pleased with the productivity of my 12 second machine but have to wonder if I shouldn't have gone with the 8 second ride instead. I just toss another knotty round on the machine and remind myself to be happy with the sweet compromise between speed and power my machine offers.

Iron & Oak is rather unique as they give multiple engine options (3 or 4) for each machine.  This is my opinion, but the Robin Subaru motors are the best engines for the money.  Of course they offer Honda GX powered machines but expect to pay a couple hundred more for that engine.  I have two EX27 Robin Subaru engines (9hp) and have not wished for a Handa GX yet. 

Really like this guy's setup with the 33flame table.


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## bogydave (Dec 11, 2012)

Nothing wrong with the 35 ton Huskee. It'll split anything you put on it..
Like my 22 ton Speeco. Split everything for me so far. Mostly vertical.
It's for splitting fire wood,


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## fabsroman (Dec 11, 2012)

lukem said:


> No need to spend $2200. It you have $2200 to get rid of buy a huskee 22 ton and a MS460...and a couple cases of beer.


 
Yeah, no need for a MS460 either, since I already have a MS261 and MS660 (see signature). Don't drink alcohol either. However, the saved money could be used on some new cycling gear or a new AR-15 upper. I am going to have to think about this some more and look into the Iron & Oak splitters.


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## fabsroman (Dec 11, 2012)

Backwoods Savage said:


> I have an MTD that is over 20 years old. It is a 20 ton with a 5hp B&S engine. Trouble free so far and it has split a lot of wood for sure, over 200 cord.
> 
> On the cycle time, most times that is not a factor. When one learns the proper way to use the splitter it does not take long to cycle because you simply will not use the entire cycle on most wood splitting. For example, on white ash, most of the time the ram, or wedge, moves less than a foot. I'll let it raise until it gets just a few inches over top of where the next log will be so when I start the split it is just a second or so before the wedge is into the wood. Ash splits easy so many times 2-3 inches is able the furthest into the log we have to go. Sometimes I will let the wedge go all the way back up but not often.
> 
> As far as power, the 20 or 22 ton should split all you need. It is just that most consumers have the attitude that bigger is better, so the makers of splitters respond and make bigger machines all the time. But if you want a good splitter without paying out the big dollars... I've never been sorry for buying our $800 splitter.


 
Yep, Dad's 15 year old splitter is an MTD Yard Machine 20 ton splitter and I would have to guess that it has split about 100 cord so far. Thing is, he is pretty rough on his maintenance too. Don't think the fluid has ever been changed and the filter was just changed this past spring because it had a leak in it. Had to replace the starter cord last summer and that screwed up two days of splitting time at a site. Me, I tend to take care of my stuff rather meticulously. Going to have to do some more research on this before I buy anything. I knew this wasn't going to be an easy decision.


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## Jags (Dec 11, 2012)

Brave deserves a look too.


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## fabsroman (Dec 11, 2012)

Alright, reason is starting to prevail over "manliness". Figure there hasn't been a single piece of wood over the last 15 years that the 20 ton splitter has not been able to split. So, probably going to go with something in the 20 to 25 ton range.

Have looked over Iron & Oak and Brave splitters and am trying to see where the difference in price is justified. The only one that I might be able to understand is the Iron & Oak 20 ton fast cycle splitter at around $2,500. Otherwise, the tonage and cycle rate seem to be almost identical between the Speeco models and the Iron & Oak and Brave models. For around $1,400, I can get the Speeco 22 ton splitter with a Honda GC190 engine. In the 28 ton version, I can get the splitter with a Honda GX240 for $2,100. The same tonnage and cycle time in Brave or Iron & Oak is several hundred dollars more. So, my question is, what am I getting for those several hundred dollars? The stats look the same. The engines are the same. Can the beam, pump, and hoses really justify the additional expense? What am I missing?

Biggest question right now is going to be 22/25 ton with the Honda GC190 or 28/35 ton with the Honda GX240? Looks like the engine is the biggest difference in price. Going from the 22 to 25 ton is only $100, and it is the same going from the 28 to 35 ton. However, going from the 25 ton to 28 ton is a $600 jump. Anybody know anything about these Honda motors? Is one more reliable than the other?

On a side note, probably only looking at splitting 5 to 10 cord a year.


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## Jags (Dec 11, 2012)

The Braves and I & O are more of a commercial duty splitter.  Yes, they are more heavily built.  Does this make the splits burn better or look prettier?  No.  At 5-10 cord per year the 22 ton speeco will be a reliable splitter for years.  The GX series honda is the commercial motor.  The GC is homeowner.


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Dec 11, 2012)

Have you looked into one of these?
http://timberwolfcorp.com/
Just to confuse you more.


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## fabsroman (Dec 11, 2012)

Sean McGillicuddy said:


> Have you looked into one of these?
> http://timberwolfcorp.com/
> Just to confuse you more.


 
Thanks for the link. That was rather useful and now I am leaning toward Timber Wolf. More expensive, but I like the idea of a log lift and the 4 way wedge. My hang up with the horizontal splitters is having to get 2+ foot rounds up on them. The manual log lift looks like it would work just fine. Roll the round to the splitter, use the manual lift, and split. Now, debating between the TW-1 and the TW-2. My wife might kill me though if I spend $3,500 on a splitter. So, leaning more toward the TW-1 wth the log lift and 4 way wedge.

Again, thanks for the link.


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## Jags (Dec 11, 2012)

Timberwolf is a very respected name for splitters.


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## TreePointer (Dec 11, 2012)

If you go with a SpeeCo 25-ton, get the one with 12s cycle time and not the 17s model.


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## mywaynow (Dec 11, 2012)

Honda GX is a better engine than the GC. Honda engines are strong either way. My 28 Huskee has been plenty of splitter for anything I throw at it. The GC engine starts second pull every time.  Hit the TSC and you can get the 28 version for 1500 with a little creative BSing.


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## Gasifier (Dec 11, 2012)

mywaynow said:


> Honda GX is a better engine than the GC. Honda engines are strong either way. My 28 Huskee has been plenty of splitter for anything I throw at it. The GC engine starts second pull every time. Hit the TSC and you can get the 28 version for 1500 with a little creative BSing.


 
No. myway. Say it ain't so. You. Creative BSing! No.


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## Gasifier (Dec 11, 2012)

Butcher said:


> I'm happy with my 22 ton husky but I wunder what 1 of these costs?




Butcher. Thanks for that link. That splitter is..... WOW! Did you find out how much they cost yet? I bet they are a little scary in price. Oh. Hey. Thanks for the music as well. Did you put that in there or was that already in the video? Good music.


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## fabsroman (Dec 12, 2012)

Butcher said:


> I'm happy with my 22 ton husky but I wunder what 1 of these costs?




Entry level, non pto splitter, is $9,500 and the one in the video is $11,500. Would have to make firewood a second job to justify that expenditure. Maybe if/when I finally get a farm with a decent amount of wooded acreage. Really nice splitter though.


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## MasterMech (Dec 12, 2012)

$9500 is a bit steep for a splitter that is picky about what you put through it.  I think I like the multi-wedge designs that are powered by massive (5"+) cylinders and BFP's (Big "Fancy" Pump) much better than the box wedge.


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## Gasifier (Dec 12, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> View attachment 84764
> 
> 
> $9500 is a bit steep for a splitter that is picky about what you put through it. I think I like the multi-wedge designs that are powered by massive (5"+) cylinders and BFP's (Big "Fancy" Pump) much better than the box wedge.


 
I hear you on that MM. But you have to admit it is fast. Very fast. With action both ways, and cutting the wood down to that nice size through those boxes, it leaves you with a pile of nice size wood fast. You could just throw the uglies off to the side. Would work nice for someone who splits a lot of wood and generally is splitting straight wood. And is still cheaper than a nice wood processor. Much too expensive for most wood burners though. You would have to be selling some serious wood each year to puchase something like that.


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## mywaynow (Dec 12, 2012)

Just what we need, a finicky and expensive splitter.  Warranty void if wood is put through it??  That's funny.  11500 would buy 75 cords of split wood, and no work involved.


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## Jags (Dec 12, 2012)

Box wedge design will also create more splitter trash.  It is just the nature of the design.  You don't get to adjust where it splits.


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## MasterMech (Dec 12, 2012)

Gasifier said:


> Much too expensive for most wood burners though. You would have to be selling some serious wood each year to puchase something like that.


 
They list it as being ideal for folks in the "bundlewood" business and we all know what the profit margin is there.  Lowes is currently selling "bundlewood" for about $850 a cord .  Wouldn't take too long to pay for a $12,000 splitter with that price plan.


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## fabsroman (Dec 12, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> They list it as being ideal for folks in the "bundlewood" business and we all know what the profit margin is there. Lowes is currently selling "bundlewood" for about $850 a cord . Wouldn't take too long to pay for a $12,000 splitter with that price plan.


 
Yeah, but I doubt Lowes is paying $850 per cord for what they are selling. If I had a reliable source of wood, I would think about doing this as a side job if I could make $5,000 a year. Thing is, tough enough being an attorney/CPA right now with my own practice and three kids to find time for a second job. Then I think, I might as well just bill another hour instead of working an entire day splitting wood to make the same amount. Then I think, well there are months where I am not terribly busy with work. Hmmmmmm,

And regarding the disclaimer on that splitter, I don't like it. So, I probably would not buy it. I was also watching the video and thinking about all the kindling that it was making and how some stuff I split would be a disaster going through that thing.


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## fabsroman (Dec 12, 2012)

Researching all these splitters, I am wondering why more companies do not offer a hydraulic log lift, or even manual log lift, option on their horizontal splitters. That is an option I would love to have. Tough for me to use a horizontal splitter with 100+ pound rounds and using a sledge and wedge defeats the purpose of having a splitter.

I like the horizontal splitters because it means I do not have to be on my knees or sitting on a "milk crate". I prefer to work standing up. The only reason I would go with a vertical splitter is because lifting the big rounds onto the splitter would be extremely tough and I envision me doing this solo in the future. Want to buy a splitter that I can use for 30 years, meaning I will be in my 60's.


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## Jags (Dec 12, 2012)

Some of us just add our own log lift.


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## TreePointer (Dec 12, 2012)

I always thought that it was market driven.  Most splitters I see at big box stores are under $2K.  Adding another hydraulic loop for a lift moves it well above $2K.  Those who would like a lift do have options (Timberwolf, I&O, American CLS, and a bunch of smaler fab shops), but they're priced above what the MTD and Huskee target customers are willing to pay.


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## fabsroman (Dec 12, 2012)

Jags said:


> Some of us just add our own log lift.


 
Yep, just watched a video on a 30 ton, green, home made splitter with log lift and hydraulic 4 way wedge. About to learn how to build a splitter. Took a year to figure out how to install the furnace myself so I could save several thousands of dollars on the install, so might as well learn all about hydraulics and welding now. Have always wanted to learn how to weld, so this is a really good excuse. Don't have an immediate need for a new splitter, so this might be a good project for after tax season now that the furnace and A/C have been installed. In the past year, I have learned more about car brake lines, car A/C, and residential HVAC than I ever thought I would. Might as well do the same for welding and hydraulics. That way, I can learn something and get the exact splitter that I want. It will be a fun project. Now I am excited.


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## fabsroman (Dec 12, 2012)

TreePointer said:


> I always thought that it was market driven. Most splitters I see at big box stores are under $2K. Adding another hydraulic loop for a lift moves it well above $2K. Those who would like a lift do have options (Timberwolf, I&O, American CLS, and a bunch of smaler fab shops), but they're priced above what the MTD and Huskee target customers are willing to pay.


 
Yeah, my back and my brain are both voting for the log lift. Don't want to be crying about backaches when I am 70+. Have enough back issues just from shooting a lot.


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## basod (Dec 12, 2012)

Butcher said:


> I'm happy with my 22 ton husky but I wunder what 1 of these costs?


 
I had to go look
$12,900  Sweet machine though, needs longer/adjustable chutes and then you need two pickups, or I guess park the trailer under one side. 
http://www.tempestwoodsplitter.com/Wood_splitters.html


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## basod (Dec 12, 2012)

fabsroman said:


> Yeah, my back and my brain are both voting for the log lift. Don't want to be crying about backaches when I am 70+. Have enough back issues just from shooting a lot.


You can always go log roller/ramp


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Dec 12, 2012)

fabsroman said:


> Yep, just watched a video on a 30 ton, green, home made splitter with log lift and hydraulic 4 way wedge. About to learn how to build a splitter. Took a year to figure out how to install the furnace myself so I could save several thousands of dollars on the install, so might as well learn all about hydraulics and welding now. Have always wanted to learn how to weld, so this is a really good excuse. Don't have an immediate need for a new splitter, so this might be a good project for after tax season now that the furnace and A/C have been installed. In the past year, I have learned more about car brake lines, car A/C, and residential HVAC than I ever thought I would. Might as well do the same for welding and hydraulics. That way, I can learn something and get the exact splitter that I want. It will be a fun project. Now I am excited.


 
We have seen what can be done!!














Of course we would want pics!!
Good luck!
See this post for inspiration!

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...-dirty-work-horses-you-call-a-splitter.93206/

Sean


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## Jags (Dec 12, 2012)

Non- hydro version:


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## amateur cutter (Dec 12, 2012)

I like the horizontal splitters because it means I do not have to be on my knees or sitting on a "milk crate". I prefer to work standing up.

Not trying to be an a$$ here, but on the horizontal splitters I've used, I still had to work bent over to some degree. My back does not like a long day of that. I too prefer to work on my feet, but I like the vertical option much better when splitting. I can sit or kneel with my back fairly straight & it seems to work better for me. If you end up building a splitter, please make a thread here so we can watch. A C


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## MasterMech (Dec 12, 2012)

TreePointer said:


> I always thought that it was market driven. Most splitters I see at big box stores are under $2K. Adding another hydraulic loop for a lift moves it well above $2K. Those who would like a lift do have options (Timberwolf, I&O, American CLS, and a bunch of smaler fab shops), but they're priced above what the MTD and Huskee target customers are willing to pay.


 
Just take a look at the splitter threads on this site. We have an enthusiastic wood-burning population here of which the majority of are unwilling to spend more than $1000-$1400 on a splitter. If they even are in the market for a powered splitter.



fabsroman said:


> Yep, just watched a video on a 30 ton, green, home made splitter with log lift and hydraulic 4 way wedge. About to learn how to build a splitter. Took a year to figure out how to install the furnace myself so I could save several thousands of dollars on the install, so might as well learn all about hydraulics and welding now. Have always wanted to learn how to weld, so this is a really good excuse. Don't have an immediate need for a new splitter, so this might be a good project for after tax season now that the furnace and A/C have been installed. In the past year, I have learned more about car brake lines, car A/C, and residential HVAC than I ever thought I would. Might as well do the same for welding and hydraulics. That way, I can learn something and get the exact splitter that I want. It will be a fun project. Now I am excited.


 
Well this thread has taken quite the swing.  Pics or you know....


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## fabsroman (Dec 13, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Just take a look at the splitter threads on this site. We have an enthusiastic wood-burning population here of which the majority of are unwilling to spend more than $1000-$1400 on a splitter. If they even are in the market for a powered splitter.
> 
> 
> 
> Well this thread has taken quite the swing.  Pics or you know....


 
Yep, that is what happens when I see something I like that is freaking ridiculously expensive, or when a repair is ridiculously expensive. Surely wasn't going to pay somebody $3,000 plus to install the furnace, so had to learn how to do that. They wanted $2,100 just to hook the thing up to the ductwork and another $800 for the chimney install, with me putting the furnace in place. Installing the AC was another complete disaster. They wanted $4,600 for it and I bought what they wanted to sell me for $1,900.

Same goes for the AC clutch and brake lines on the car. If I wasn't able to make those repairs, it would have been time for a new car.

Building a splitter is also a good excuse to get a welder, even though I already had an excuse in mind, building a trailer. I am going to be a welding fool.

Mind you, this endeavour is not going to happen until after tax season. Do not have the time to get into this now and I need to learn how to weld and get an idea for what I am going to build. Strike that, I have an idea, but the devil is in the details. Always is. So, I need to read up on welding and welders, buy a welder, practice welding, while reading up on splitters, required parts, possible designs, etc. Ain't coming together tomorrow. However, it will come together.

Going to have to post pics of the furnace one day.


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## MasterMech (Dec 13, 2012)

fabsroman said:


> Building a splitter is also a good excuse to get a welder, even though I already had an excuse in mind, building a trailer. I am going to be a welding fool.


 
Big MIG.  Easy to learn, _very_ productive and produces pretty welds once you get the hang of it.  Set one up with fluxcore wire if you have to work outside in the wind.  Equipment cost is the only disadvantage over stick.  Lots of good used machines out there too.  Stick is tougher to learn, and technique is _everything_ when it comes to getting the strength and appearance you want.  Plus you need a damned encyclopedia to keep track of what rod will perform best for the job you want to do. 

The nice thing about building a splitter will be welding the heavy steel parts together.  Welding thicker metal slows the process down so a beginner can more easily see whats happening IMO.  I started welding mower decks and tubing, mosty short welds on 16 ga or thinner metals.  It was over before I realized what I was looking at.


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## Jags (Dec 13, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Big MIG.


 
If you are going to use a mig to build a splitter, it will need to be a pretty big one. The smaller migs will NOT penetrate deep enough when you start to weld the thick stuff. Food for thought.

You can find old Lincoln Tombstone stick welders all over the place for a hunert bucks. More food for thought. (but I really want a mig for my shop.)


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## basod (Dec 13, 2012)

I'd second Jags.
Get an old tombstone stick welder, don't get overwhelmed by the stick numbers - 6011 root pass, 7018 filler, should satisfy anything you'd be doing for a splitter.

Now you have a christmas list for the wife:
Welding hood
Slag hammer
Angle grinder
Disks
Wire wheels


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## fabsroman (Dec 13, 2012)

basod said:


> I'd second Jags.
> Get an old tombstone stick welder, don't get overwhelmed by the stick numbers - 6011 root pass, 7018 filler, should satisfy anything you'd be doing for a splitter.
> 
> Now you have a christmas list for the wife:
> ...


 
My dad has an old stick welder and has welded plenty with it. We welded together the fish tank stand for my 75 gallon and 55 gallon combo with it 20 some years ago. So, I have access to a stick welder if I need it. Like the MTD splitter, it is a 30 minute drive away. As far as not worrying about what stick to use, I am pretty sure my dad never worried about that. He just isn't that particular about things. Me, I'll be worrying about it even after the weld comes out just fine.

Will probably end up getting a MIG just to have the thing and am thinking about getting a plasma cutter too. What size Lincoln MIG do you guys think I will need? Granted, I will end up doing more research to confirm any recommendation, but recommendations are a great place to start. Had dreams last night about how to design this splitter. lol

Wrote about this in another thread somewhere where a guy got a chainsaw for a Xmas present. Does not work like that in my household. I buy my tools, hunting, fishing, shooting, and cycling gear because I am very particular about them. My wife never questions the tool purchases. Now, hunting, fishing, shooting, and cycling stuff, that is a different story. Have to get the approval with the large ticket items in those categories but that usually is never an issue either.

First thing I need to start with is a book on welding. Anybody have any recommendations for a good read about welding?


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## Jags (Dec 13, 2012)

If you are willing to look, there is quite a bit of info on the Lincoln Electric website.  Just an example:
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/support/welding-how-to/Pages/welding-how-to.aspx


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## TreePointer (Dec 13, 2012)

I just picked up a secondhand Lincon 225 AC/DC stick welder with wheel kit and some other extras for $175. If you're not familiar with welders, it's a version of the "tombstone" mentioned above, but it has DC welding capability which makes for smoother welds.

This welder will be for tractor implements and general farm welding. I have no plans to build a splitter, but a new welder may mean new projects...just because!

As for which MIG to get, stay with Lincoln, Miller, or Hobart (a Miller company) and you should be fine. Factors such as input voltage (115V or 230V or both), duty cycle, shielding gas ready, output amp settings, and thickness of metal to be welded will factor into your decision.

_Welder's Handbook_ by Richard Finch is a nice introduction.


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## Jags (Dec 13, 2012)

There ain't a 115V mig that I am aware of that will have the proper penetration power for heavy steel.  Remember that the push plate and wedge is gonna be thick stuff.


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## MasterMech (Dec 13, 2012)

fabsroman said:


> What size Lincoln MIG do you guys think I will need?


 
I was thinking Miller 252 or similar.  The 252 is on my short list (but I really like the 120V/240V capability of the 211 so .... I'm torn, ).  I like the 252 because it's reasonably affordable for it's capability (1/2" Mild Steel, single pass)  at about $2200 or so and I have experience with the one at work.  I'm sure Lincoln builds equivalent machines as well, I'm just not as familiar with them.

Miller's website has a monster how-to section for MIG, TIG, and Stick welding.  Very good info there.

http://www.millerwelds.com

Even if you have a stick welder, I'd still want a little MIG for doing light stuff.  The 120V machines (like the Millermatic 140 or Hobart Handler 140) are very useful for automotive body-work and light fabrication.


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## Jags (Dec 13, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Even if you have a stick welder, I'd still want a little MIG for doing light stuff. The 120V machines (like the Millermatic 140 or Hobart Handler 140) are very useful for automotive body-work and light fabrication.


 
Agreed - and they are a gawd send when mocking stuff up.  Pull trigger - zap - part stuck in place.  Its the hot glue gun of steel.


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## MasterMech (Dec 13, 2012)

Jags said:


> Agreed - and they are a gawd send when mocking stuff up. Pull trigger - zap - part stuck in place. Its the hot glue gun of steel.


I use the little MM140 at work to tack up parts before hittin' 'em with the TIG.


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## fabsroman (Dec 14, 2012)

Oh, this is going to be fun. There is going to be plenty to read on welders and welding. After that, plenty more to read on how to build a splitter. Going to be some fun stuff. I like learning about new things. Thanks for the links guys. I actually already knew about the Lincoln one, but had no idea about the other or the book. It is going to be a fun spring/summer.


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## missedbass (Dec 23, 2012)

troy built 27 ton from lowe's works fine for me, just have to run it dry the ethenol is rough on the honda engine


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## fabsroman (Dec 24, 2012)

missedbass said:


> troy built 27 ton from lowe's works fine for me, just have to run it dry the ethenol is rough on the honda engine


 
What do you mean by "run it dry"? Does that mean you run it until there is no more gas in it? All my Stihl tool manuals and my John Deere zero turn manual recommend keeping them completely full with fuel all the time to prevent condensation in the fuel tanks. I usually keep them full even when I am not going to use them for months.


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## missedbass (Dec 24, 2012)

fabsroman said:


> What do you mean by "run it dry"? Does that mean you run it until there is no more gas in it? All my Stihl tool manuals and my John Deere zero turn manual recommend keeping them completely full with fuel all the time to prevent condensation in the fuel tanks. I usually keep them full even when I am not going to use them for months.


 I close the valve in the fuel line and let it run to empty the fuel bowl and carb.


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## swagler85 (Dec 24, 2012)

fabsroman said:


> Yep, that is what happens when I see something I like that is freaking ridiculously expensive, or when a repair is ridiculously expensive. Surely wasn't going to pay somebody $3,000 plus to install the furnace, so had to learn how to do that. They wanted $2,100 just to hook the thing up to the ductwork and another $800 for the chimney install, with me putting the furnace in place. Installing the AC was another complete disaster. They wanted $4,600 for it and I bought what they wanted to sell me for $1,900.
> 
> 
> Going to have to post pics of the furnace one day.


I did the furnace install on my house too, did it mainly for use of the A/C and actually haven't run it at all for heat. Im too stubborn to break down and turn on the furnace. Even if I have to push myself and run stove at peak performance when it gets really cold.


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## MasterMech (Dec 24, 2012)

fabsroman said:


> What do you mean by "run it dry"? Does that mean you run it until there is no more gas in it? All my Stihl tool manuals and my John Deere zero turn manual recommend keeping them completely full with fuel all the time to prevent condensation in the fuel tanks. I usually keep them full even when I am not going to use them for months.


 
Tanks full of stabilized fuel, carburetors empty/dry is best for seasonal storage.  Tanks completely empty is good too, especially for long-term storage, but removing fuel from the tank can be a hassle and isn't necessary for storage of less than 6 months.


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## fabsroman (Dec 24, 2012)

missedbass said:


> I close the valve in the fuel line and let it run to empty the fuel bowl and carb.


 
That makes sense. Don't think my dad's splitter has a fuel shut off valve. Might have to think about putting one in. Will have to check the mower and other small engine tools to see if they have them. Know the chainsaws don't, but maybe the weed whacker does.


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## fabsroman (Dec 24, 2012)

swagler85 said:


> I did the furnace install on my house too, did it mainly for use of the A/C and actually haven't run it at all for heat. Im too stubborn to break down and turn on the furnace. Even if I have to push myself and run stove at peak performance when it gets really cold.


 
No wood stove in the house. The furnace is a wood burning furnace with natural gas backup on a separate thermostat. So, had to install the furnace to have heat in the house. Have the a-coil and condensor ready to go for when the summer gets here. Just need to hire somebody to braze the coolant line and charge the system this spring.


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## TreePointer (Dec 24, 2012)

fabsroman said:


> That makes sense. Don't think my dad's splitter has a fuel shut off valve. Might have to think about putting one in. Will have to check the mower and other small engine tools to see if they have them. Know the chainsaws don't, but maybe the weed whacker does.


 
Depending on the engine, you might be able to add an inline shut-off valve

http://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-698183-Shut-Off-Selected/dp/B0038U3JKM


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## MasterMech (Dec 25, 2012)

fabsroman said:


> That makes sense. Don't think my dad's splitter has a fuel shut off valve. Might have to think about putting one in. Will have to check the mower and other small engine tools to see if they have them. Know the chainsaws don't, but maybe the weed whacker does.


For the handheld stuff, just dump the tank back into your mix can.  1/4" Shut off's are cheap (under $5 anywhere) and worth it. (For the splitter)


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