# Iron & Oak 26 ton Horizontal and Vertical Splitter (9HP Robin engine) review



## GordonShumway (Jul 28, 2011)

Our new splitter arrived in our driveway yesterday. From time order was placed to delivery was 8 business days through buyacehardware.com. The delivery method was in question since we never received a call from I&O on arrangements. The splitter was shipped to R&L Carriers and at that point R&L called us to arrange for delivery the following day. My wife took the call from R&L and she inquired about the liftgate service, but lucky for us they informed her that a truck with a liftgate would already be making another delivery in the area and it wouldn't cost any extra for them to use the liftgate to deliver here. Here are some pics of how the splitter arrived.


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## GordonShumway (Jul 28, 2011)

The assembly was off and on as I had time but all in all I would say it takes about 1 1/2 to assemble ( 1 hour if your familiar with assembling things). I was able to do this by myself. The heaviest part was of course lifting the i-beam on end. After that pretty easy. When connecting the beam to the axle assembly I took the bracket off the axle and bolted it onto the i-beam then just rolled the axle up to the bracket. You will only need two wrench sizes (1/2" and 3/4"), and it comes with a little tool to assist in that. One mistake I made was that I bolted the i-beam rest on the same side as the kick stand, causing the kick stand to hit the rest when it was put up. Easy fix tho. Other then that the assembly was straight forward and the manual detailed enough. Only thing had to add was that the engine was loosely bolted to frame and during shipping lost one of the nuts ( no biggie tho) so tightened that down. Only 3 things needed to get it running and that is of course 9.5 gallons of atf or hydraulic fluid, gas and motor oil. Didn't have any atf so picked some up today and will be going out to add that and fire it up. Will add to review once I get it running and split some wood.


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## iskiatomic (Jul 28, 2011)

I used an I&O splitter last fall at a friends in VT. Very nice unit, very smooth and lots of punch.

Enjoy, KC


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## TreePointer (Jul 28, 2011)

Eight looong business days, I'm sure!   Looks good.  Enjoy your new toy, er, um, tool.


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## pyronut (Jul 28, 2011)

Looks great  Let us know how it splits.  Thanks for the update.


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## GordonShumway (Jul 29, 2011)

Went out and added the various fluids. Was approx. 2 qts shy on the atf, but went ahead and tried it out. I added gas, pulled once, and it fired right up. Took me a bit to find the throttle (kept mistaking it for the choke), suppose if I would've read the manual a little more I would have been able to find it. The engine is fairly quiet, but I think I will wear the ear protection to be on the safe side. I operated the ram a couple of times and turned it back off. To my surprise the unit is very well balanced, so when I went to move it I was able to just walk it around the yard myself. Headed to the wood pile (which has obviously been neglected to weeds), and set the splitter in the vertical position. After firing it up I let it idle for a few minutes because it had a rattle to it that I will admit was annoying. After some searching found it to be the pin that is the joint between the axle and the i-beam. It fits loosely in the hole and so sits there and vibrates until it is under a load. The 1st piece i split was maple (after that I have no idea the type of wood). It of course split it without hesitation. After that I tried some various knotty green pieces. The first 2 had some initial hesitation, but then split right on through. The 4th piece was a different story. It stopped the ram for a couple of seconds but then ripped it apart. I have some bigger stumps but was unable to try those because they are buried in the pile. So after a couple of pieces I got a good idea what it could handle, although I should mention I was only at 1/2 throttle.


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## GordonShumway (Jul 29, 2011)

On a side note, there was a small filter screen looking device in the bag of parts. The manual says nothing about it that I could find, but it goes over the exhaust port to redirect it if you wish.


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## DexterDay (Jul 29, 2011)

GordonShumway said:
			
		

> On a side note, there was a small filter screen looking device in the bag of parts. The manual says nothing about it that I could find, but it goes over the exhaust port to redirect it if you wish.




The screen is a "Spark Arrestor". Should be used if working in a dry environment. (fall, leaves, etc) Smokey the Bear says "Only you can prevent Forest Fires".


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## TreePointer (Jul 29, 2011)

In some areas, the spark arrestor is not just recommended, it's required by law.


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## DexterDay (Jul 29, 2011)

TreePointer said:
			
		

> In some areas, the spark arrestor is not just recommended, it's required by law.



Absolutley.... An ATV must have one here in Ohio, when riding through any state park. Better to be safe than sorry.


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## GordonShumway (Jul 29, 2011)

That's good to know about the spark arrestor. I never would've guessed nor known. Makes good sense tho. Thanks for the info.


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## mayhem (Jul 29, 2011)

Very nice, but it ought to be at that price point. 

Glad you like it.


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## smokinj (Jul 29, 2011)

Looks Great!


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## wannabegreener (Aug 2, 2011)

just ordered mine.   Can't wait to get it.  Thanks for your review and pictures.


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## pyronut (Aug 2, 2011)

wannabegreener said:
			
		

> just ordered mine.   Can't wait to get it.  Thanks for your review and pictures.



Let us know when it arrives.  I ordered mine this past Friday and now it comes down to the waiting game.  I will update when it arrives.  Happy Splitting To All


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## wannabegreener (Aug 3, 2011)

Pyro Nut said:
			
		

> wannabegreener said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Any idea where it is coming from.  I know the HQ is in Illinois, but not sure if that is where it is shipped.


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## MasterMech (Aug 3, 2011)

I've been splitting with this unit for three seasons now and loving it.  A few pointers: Quality oil makes a difference, the hydraulics tend to get VERY warm unless you only split in freezing weather.  I am often splitting in 80 degree + weather.  About that annoying rattle; jam a thin chip of wood in between the pivot bracket and the frame to keep it quiet. I'm going to look for nylon washers for mine.  Finally, BE CAREFUL splitting heavy logs in the horizontal position.  The unit is well balanced making it easy to push around but it will tend to tip forward during the splitting cycle if the log on it is heavy.  Found that out because I was too lazy to switch between horizontal and vertical modes, lol.

As a small engine pro, kudos on picking the Robin! IMO the Honda's are great but not worth the x-tra money and Briggs is a crapshoot unless it's a Vangaurd and even then there are issues.

P.S. The Log Dislodger attachment is well worth the cash but the log table is somewhat flawed and you can fab your own for less money.  Mine tends to catch knots/edges on the wood when in the flat position and the wedge pushes the wood into the table, bending the brackets that hold it to the beam.

I brought this product line into the dealership I used to work for and there isn't a better price/performace ratio with any other machine.  Sure Timberwolf builds some badass splitters but they're twice the price and certainly not bulletproof. MTD and it's cousin's build splitters that split just fine but look closer at pumps/engines and they certainly were designed to be replaced inexpensively rather than last a lifetime.

Happy Splitting!


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## pyronut (Aug 3, 2011)

Any idea where it is coming from.  I know the HQ is in Illinois, but not sure if that is where it is shipped.[/quote]

I am not sure where it is shipping from.  If I find out I will update.  Have a good one.


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## GordonShumway (Aug 3, 2011)

Mastermech-Thanks for adding your experience. Will also try some washers on the pivot pin. I was just shoving a rag in the pivot bracket but would work loose after 15 mins or so. I am curious, did you go with atf or hydraulic fluid? 

Also, if I remember right, the shipper papers said it came from their HQ in illinois.


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## MasterMech (Aug 3, 2011)

I went with hydraulic fluid, although either will be fine. ATF may have been a better choice and that is I & O's preferred fluid.  I will probably be swapping my fluid out this fall for a HQ synthetic as my machine gets so hot after 4 hours of splitting that you can't touch the cylinder/tank.


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## wannabegreener (Aug 3, 2011)

MasterMech said:
			
		

> I went with hydraulic fluid, although either will be fine. ATF may have been a better choice and that is I & O's preferred fluid.  I will probably be swapping my fluid out this fall for a HQ synthetic as my machine gets so hot after 4 hours of splitting that you can't touch the cylinder/tank.



Is there a reason atf would be better then hydraulic fluid?  I want to get what I need before it shows up so once it is together,I can get it running.  If it takes 8 working days to get here, I'll be splitting around the 11th or 12th.

I have 99 rounds on my driveway that I can't lift so the vertical will be nice.  I'll be singing

99 rounds on the driveway to split
99 rounds to split
slide one over and split it to pieces
98 rounds on the driveway to split

For my grapple load to be up to the 6 cords they promised, I need these 99 rounds to be 3.25 cords. Hopefully I will know  by that weekend if I have 3.25 cords there.  I already have split and stacked about 2.75 cords.


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## MasterMech (Aug 3, 2011)

ATF may be designed for higher temp operation but other than that I can't see any advantage. I'm prob. switching out to AMSOIL's Multi-Visc Synthetic Hyd Fluid.  Stuff is WICKED EXPENSIVE ($140 for 5 gallon pail) but a deal when you consider OEM fluids from Deere/Kubota/Cat are also over $100 a bucket for dinosaur oil.


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## GordonShumway (Aug 3, 2011)

I thought that I saw a chart some where or something of the sort, that hydraulic was good down to a certain temp. just below freezing, while atf was best to use if you split in colder temps. along with warmer temps. Now that I mention that, I can't seem to find out where I heard that.


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## TreePointer (Aug 3, 2011)

*Here is what a current I&O manual says:*






*
Here's what a current SpeeCo/Huskee manual says:*







My understanding is that ATF will work fine but is thinner than SAE20 oil, so it's better for colder operations.  With that being the case, you might want to consider 10W-20 hydraulic oil if you'll be operating in both hot and cold temperatures.  Note that ISO46 may be used in splitters that call for SAE20. 

The bottom line is that splitters aren't as particular as tractors or excavators, so the inexpensive hydraulic oil or ATF from the local farm store should do just fine if you get the right weight for your operating temperatures.  

My personal experience has been using SAE20 and more recently ISO46 hydraulic oil in Huskee splitters.  I've split from 20-90*F and have had no issues with either hydraulic oil.  I do keep my splitter in a heated garage (never below 50*F) in winter months.


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## GordonShumway (Aug 4, 2011)

Thanks Treepointer. I thought I had read that somewhere. But perhaps I would have been better off with the hydro oil. I don't have a heated shed, so not sure if sae20 would've work if splitting in 20 degrees.


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## MasterMech (Aug 4, 2011)

It's just not practical to change out your fluid seasonally (and try to store the old fluid) with these units.  That's another reason I'm going to a multi-viscosity hyd oil.  It's a 5W30 rated universal hydraulic/tractor trans oil so I should be covered for the sub-freezing winters as well as the 90 degree summer days we get here.


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## TreePointer (Aug 4, 2011)

MasterMech said:
			
		

> *It's just not practical to change out your fluid seasonally (and try to store the old fluid) with these units.*  That's another reason I'm going to a multi-viscosity hyd oil.  It's a 5W30 rated universal hydraulic/tractor trans oil so I should be covered for the sub-freezing winters as well as the 90 degree summer days we get here.



I agree.  Wasted time and effort and often messy, IMO.


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## pyronut (Aug 4, 2011)

So I guess the waiting game continues, just received the following email from the company I purchased it from:

We got a notice from Iron & Oak they are waiting in the 4.5" cylinders.  They will be in next week and they are projecting your splitter to ship toward the end of next week.

 :coolmad:


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## GordonShumway (Aug 4, 2011)

Is that going to be coming close to 3 weeks? That is going to be a long wait, especially if you still have wood to split to use by this winter. For me it's come down to crunch time.


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## pyronut (Aug 4, 2011)

It probably is going to be right at 3 weeks before it gets here. It is disappointing because I am off next week on vacation and was hoping to split about 4 cords and be done till next year. Guess that's not happening.


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## MasterMech (Aug 5, 2011)

Patience Pyro.... The wait will be worth it.

I remember August/September being peak demand at I & O and we had to wait longer for shipments ordered in that time.

On a good cool day with 1 helper I can run 3+ cords across my machine. I sleep good that night too!  You should have no trouble making up your 4 cords over a couple Saturday's.


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## wannabegreener (Aug 5, 2011)

Pyro that really stinks.  I ordered my unit about 1 week after you.  I was hoping to have it here next week some time.  I guess that won't happen. I ordered my unit through ace hardware so maybe - but I doubt it - I will get it from somewhere else who might have them in stock.  I doubt it because ace said that they sent my order to iron & oak.

I'll let you know when it arrives and please do the same.

Gordon - How has your splitter been working?


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## pyronut (Aug 5, 2011)

wannabegreener,
 Let me know what you hear on your splitter shipping?  I just hope they get in the cylinder needed and ship out ASAP.  Please keep us updated.  Thanks


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## wannabegreener (Aug 5, 2011)

Pyro Nut said:
			
		

> wannabegreener,
> Let me know what you hear on your splitter shipping?  I just hope they get in the cylinder needed and ship out ASAP.  Please keep us updated.  Thanks



Maybe if we both complain they will upgrade us to the next bigger unit that uses the next larger cylinder.  Of course - at no extra charge to us.


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## GordonShumway (Aug 7, 2011)

Wannabegreener- Splitter is working flawlessly. With the single wedge, I am not sure there is a piece that can stop it. I still run it at 1/2 idle, but the 2 times I turned it up to full, I heard the splitter yawning at me (j/k of course). This thing is a work horse. You will be well pleased with it. Also the robin engine has yet to need more then 1 pull to start and runs very strong.


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## pyronut (Aug 7, 2011)

Thats great to hear.


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## pyronut (Aug 7, 2011)

Wannabegreener,

Did you hear anything on your splitter shipping?


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## wannabegreener (Aug 7, 2011)

Pyro Nut said:
			
		

> Wannabegreener,
> 
> Did you hear anything on your splitter shipping?


Pyro Nut - No, I have not heard a thing yet.  I was initially thinking I would hear this coming Tuesday or Wednesday since Thursday would be the 8th business day and that is how long it took for Gordon to get his splitter.  If they are backed up because of the rams not being available, I probably won't here for another week or so.  I think I will call buyacehardware to see if they have heard anything.  I'll call them tomorrow to see what I can find out.


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## GordonShumway (Aug 7, 2011)

I also hadn't heard anything and on the 5th business day after ordering, I ended up sending an email to Ace. Took a day to get a response, but when I did the email said that the splitter would be shipped that afternoon.


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## pyronut (Aug 11, 2011)

Just got the official word that my splitter has been assembled and is shipping out today.  Should be here this coming Monday. I will update upon arrival.


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## GordonShumway (Aug 12, 2011)

Sounds like it may be a long weekend for you Pyro. But at least the guessing game is over.


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## wannabegreener (Aug 14, 2011)

GordonShumway said:
			
		

> Wannabegreener- Splitter is working flawlessly. With the single wedge, I am not sure there is a piece that can stop it. I still run it at 1/2 idle, but the 2 times I turned it up to full, I heard the splitter yawning at me (j/k of course). This thing is a work horse. You will be well pleased with it. Also the robin engine has yet to need more then 1 pull to start and runs very strong.



Gordon,

I've been meaning to ask you this...  why only 1/2 throttle?  I run all of my yard equipment at full throttle.  power washer, chipper, leaf vacuum.  Wouldn't you want to run this at full throttle so you get the fast cycle time and the full 26 tons of pressure?  Just curious.  Was there something in the manual about 1/2 throttle or ???

Thanks


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## TreePointer (Aug 14, 2011)

wannabegreener said:
			
		

> GordonShumway said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I have the same question.  Why half throttle?

I know that folks do this to save fuel and reduce noise, but that's pretty much an old school way.   Many older small engines were overbuilt (a good thing), but my understanding is that today's engines should be run at full throttle because it's harder on the engine if you don't--kinda like driving 10 mph in 5th gear.


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## velvetfoot (Aug 15, 2011)

I love the Robin 9 hp engine on my Harbor Freight splitter too, and also run it at reduced throttle.
The manual, such as it is, recommends it to save fuel, and it does use fuel.
One thing, I didn't run it for a couple years and the o-ring for the carburetor bowl started leaking.
I think it has a built in compression release-it really starts easily.


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## MasterMech (Aug 15, 2011)

I run mine at about 2/3 throttle when I'm splitting alone.  I can't keep up with the machine anyway and the cycle time hit isn't very significant. All that goes out the window tho if I have help.


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## jensent (Aug 15, 2011)

Gordon
Pg 22 of the I&O Manual for the 26T states to" advance the throttle control to maximum speed." Air cooled engines cool and lubricate much better at maximum speed. Additional fuel is much cheaper than a replacement engine. Enjoy the new splitter. The factory is in Streator,IL. If you have any questions about the splitter the factory people that have been very helpful to me are Linda (front office-start with her) and Jesse (shop foreman). Factory phone is 800.350.8739. Our 26T is about 8yrs. old.
Tom

Edit: I have no financial interest in Brave Industries. These folk have just been great to deal with.
T


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## velvetfoot (Aug 15, 2011)

I dug out the ftp version of the Robin manual and it says:

2. RUNNING
(1) After the engine starts, set the speed control lever at the
low speed position (L) and warm it up without load for a
few minutes. (See Fig.5-q)
(2) Gradually move the speed control lever toward the high
speed position (H) and set it at the required engine
speed. (See Fig.5-w)
â–  Whenever high speed operation is not required, slow
the engine down (idle) by moving the speed control lever
to save fuel and extend engine life.


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## GordonShumway (Aug 16, 2011)

I have never really given it any thought. Just assumed if it was able to do the job at 1/2 throttle then why not. This is something I will have to look into. I can understand that the engine being air cooled therefore needing the higher rpms to stay cooled. But as for running the engine at full throttle to extend engine life, that I am not sure about. And as velvetfoot posted from the manual, slowing the engine down extends the engine life. This could require a call to subaru customer service. 

On a different note, did your splitter show up today Pyro?

And, wannabegreener- Have you heard anything about yours?


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## pyronut (Aug 16, 2011)

Gordon,

The splitter did show up today. I did not have time to assemble today, hopefully I can start on it tomorrow. From what I could tell the muffler has a small dent on it from shipping. I don't think it is going to be a big deal but I will find out soon. Other than that everything looked in good shape. I will post pics and an update as soon as I get it all put together. Hows everything going with your splitter so far? Have a great evening

Derek


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## GordonShumway (Aug 16, 2011)

Finished splitting everything I had laying around this last weekend. I did notice the cylinder was fairly hot after running for about 2 hours. It wasn't hot enough to where I couldn't rest my hand on it, but close. Not sure if that's a big deal or not. So back off to the fields for me to find more wood (need to at least double what I have now for this winter). Will post pictures of what I was able to get done tomorrow when I have time. Glad to hear it arrived.


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## wannabegreener (Aug 16, 2011)

Gordon,

No word yet.  I'm hoping to get news tomorrow but if not, I'll give Ace a call to find out.


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## pyronut (Aug 16, 2011)

Finally had a chance to put everything together this morning. I ended up with the 26 ton I&O splitter with Honda GX 270 engine. I also went ahead and purchased the log dislodger and log cradles. I'm not sure yet if either of those two items are really necessary. After being fully assembled I ran some white and red oak, pecan, mulberry, chinese elm, cottonwood and pine through it and had no problems. It split right through everything making me wonder why I waited so long to get hydraulics. ;-P   Thanks to everyone for their help especially Gordon and wannabegreener.  Pics to come soon


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## pyronut (Aug 16, 2011)

Here are the pics as promised.


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## wannabegreener (Aug 16, 2011)

pyro

awesome pics.   now I know why you wanted vertical.  no word so i'll call ace tomorrow.  looking good.


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## GordonShumway (Aug 17, 2011)

It sure beats splitting with an ax, Pyro. Should have that stack done in no time. Just out of curiosity, are you running at full throttle? And how does the honda perform? Did you go with hydraulic fluid? Thanks

Wannabegreener- I'm sorry you haven't heard anything back yet. I hope your phone call produces some results.


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## GordonShumway (Aug 17, 2011)

I forgot, here are some pics of the stacks I split with the new splitter.


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## MasterMech (Aug 17, 2011)

Pyro, you're going to appreciate those add-ons.  The dis-lodger is great, just let it do it's job, don't fight to get stuck logs off the wedge. It will pay for itself the first time it saves your control valve too.  The table is a great time/back saver when splitting horizontally (Dennis is scratching his head wondering... why?) just be careful not to get wood wedged in between the table halves and the bedrail as the wedge will bend the brackets as it travels through the log.

I quarter all my big rounds (or halve depending on size) with the splitter vertical. Then once I have a decent pile of managable splits, the splitter goes horizontal and it's time to rock & roll.

Enjoy!


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## pyronut (Aug 17, 2011)

GordonShumway said:
			
		

> It sure beats splitting with an ax, Pyro. Should have that stack done in no time. Just out of curiosity, are you running at full throttle? And how does the honda perform? Did you go with hydraulic fluid? Thanks
> 
> Wannabegreener- I'm sorry you haven't heard anything back yet. I hope your phone call produces some results.




Gordon,

I did run the engine at full throttle and it performed great. It starts up on the first pull and has run flawless so far. Of course this was only the first day and time will tell. I do not foresee any problems though. I did end up going with hydraulic fluid because it was easier to find in the 5 gallon buckets vs ATF in our area. By the way I can see you have been busy. Your stacks look great


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## pyronut (Aug 17, 2011)

MasterMech said:
			
		

> Pyro, you're going to appreciate those add-ons.  The dis-lodger is great, just let it do it's job, don't fight to get stuck logs off the wedge. It will pay for itself the first time it saves your control valve too.  The table is a great time/back saver when splitting horizontally (Dennis is scratching his head wondering... why?) just be careful not to get wood wedged in between the table halves and the bedrail as the wedge will bend the brackets as it travels through the log.
> 
> I quarter all my big rounds (or halve depending on size) with the splitter vertical. Then once I have a decent pile of managable splits, the splitter goes horizontal and it's time to rock & roll.
> 
> Enjoy!




MasterMech,

Thanks for the tips.  The dis-lodger has already come in handy once. I will make sure I am careful with the log cradles, I can definitely see them bending if not careful.  

Pyro


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## wannabegreener (Aug 17, 2011)

Pyro,

Did you get the dislodger and the table from the same place as the splitter? I didn't even think about those add-ons.  The dislodger certainly looks useful.  I'll have to look into these.  I sent e-mail this morning but have not heard anything yet.


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## pyronut (Aug 17, 2011)

wannabegreener said:
			
		

> Pyro,
> 
> Did you get the dislodger and the table from the same place as the splitter? I didn't even think about those add-ons.  The dislodger certainly looks useful.  I'll have to look into these.  I sent e-mail this morning but have not heard anything yet.




wannabegreener,

I did get the dislodger and the tables from the same place.  www.logsplittersales.com    They shipped directly from I&O with the splitter.


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## wannabegreener (Sep 12, 2011)

I should add a few comments about my I&O splitter.

My valve seems to be leaking.  All of the hydraulic lines are dry but I have fluid coming down the handle.  I called I&O and they sent me a new valve.  I just have not put it on yet.  Too busy splitting wood.  It's a small leak. 

The pin to rotate the splitter from vertical to horizontal rattles so loudly that I need to wear ear protection.  I do anyway, but this is really loud.  It does not rattle all of the time, but whe it does, wow... It is loud.

The robins Subaru engine starts on the first pull all the time. 

The splitter is going through everything I have tried.  If the grain is twisty, it just cits through the grain.

I'm very happy with it.


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## GordonShumway (Sep 28, 2011)

Well, I ran into the first issue with the splitter (or I should say my wife did). As others and myself have posted the pivot pin is incredibly load, so still working on trying to figure that one out. But apparently my wife split a stump with a triple crouch. I believe it was elm. I'm assuming something must've shifted while on the foot pad but here are some pictures of the result. I don't believe this is a serious issue, so haven't yet decided to contact I&O about it. What do ya'll think?


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## GordonShumway (Sep 28, 2011)

I should add, that tho you can't really see it in the pictures, the bead of the weld is splitting. So I am afraid that beating it back with a hammer will just further tear the bead.


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## MofoG23 (Sep 29, 2011)

For the premium price I&O charges, I would be on the phone with them.... I'm sure they will make it right.

Good luck!


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## RNLA (Sep 29, 2011)

WOW, That looks to be the same set up as my 34 ton foot plate. I have split some pretty hairy stuff and never had even a blink in 10 years. I would take it to a local weld shop and get it fixed. I&O probably would pay for repair. A $20.00 bill would fix it if you were my neighbor...


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## MasterMech (Sep 29, 2011)

GordonShumway said:
			
		

> Well, I ran into the first issue with the splitter (or I should say my wife did). As others and myself have posted the pivot pin is incredibly load, so still working on trying to figure that one out. But apparently my wife split a stump with a triple crouch. I believe it was elm. I'm assuming something must've shifted while on the foot pad but here are some pictures of the result. I don't believe this is a serious issue, so haven't yet decided to contact I&O about it. What do ya'll think?



I would gice I & O a call.  They really are a first class company and came through when I had a busted weld on my hyd. tank due to some rough towing.  They sent me another tank/frame, no fuss.  In your case I'm sure they might say take it to a local welder and send them the bill since I'm sure it'd be easy to bend the keeper back and zip up the weld quick.

As far as that loud pivot goes, I've been jamming a thin wedge (1/2-3/4 inch or so) in between the beam and the tank.  Usually does it.  I'll take a pic next time I've got the splitter out if I remember.  I have a few ideas for a mod to fix this for good and I will do it up right here on hearth.com when I get it done.


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## pyronut (Sep 30, 2011)

What did you decide to do?


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## GordonShumway (May 28, 2012)

Update on the splitter: I never worried much about the teeth on the foot plate. So never got around to repairing since it didn't really effect performance.  I have split probably 9 cords with the splitter with out any real issues. The only one I did notice that, the splitter would sometimes shut down when it was on uneven ground or still hooked to garden tractor. I guess the hydraulic fluid was a little low, and after adding some it took care of the problem. But yesterday I hit the first real snag. The splitter just died after about 1/2 cord was split. I figured it just ran out of gas, so refilled. Still couldn't get to start. Removed spark plug to test for spark and found there was no spark. This may end up being a warranty issue with subaru, not sure how that procedure is going to go. Hopefully will be able to find out who to call tomorrow.


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## velvetfoot (May 28, 2012)

The oil level could get low on a slope and that could also cause the engine to stop (ie, no spark).


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## bogydave (May 28, 2012)

Very nice machine.
Have fun.


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## GordonShumway (May 28, 2012)

Velvetfoot, I was hoping that the oil level was the issue. So I checked and added about 1/4 quart, but still no spark.


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## velvetfoot (May 28, 2012)

But, you said initially that you added some hydraulic oil, so you must've added some engine oil as well.


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## MasterMech (May 28, 2012)

Gordon you can try disconnecting the oil level sensor (Have to look at mine to see if we have one).  If you get spark then you have your culprit.  Usually you can find the sensor if you have one by following the wires back from the switch.


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## MofoG23 (May 29, 2012)

velvetfoot said:


> The oil level could get low on a slope and that could also cause the engine to stop (ie, no spark).


 

Yep, this would be my vote.  Subaru's have a low "motor oil switch" which will cause the condition you are describing.  Low hydraulic oil should not trip a safety turn off....being on a slope could cause the low oil switch to trip.


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