# Chicken coop Prodject for labar day weekend....Help and in-put + parts list



## smokinj (Aug 10, 2011)

Need plans and parts list!


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## backpack09 (Aug 10, 2011)

4 walls
1 bottom
1 roof
a popdoor
a couple of nest boxes
a night light (to train the dumb birds to go in at night)
a window
a couple of roosts (2x4 on the flat)


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## smokinj (Aug 10, 2011)

Backpack09 said:
			
		

> 4 walls
> 1 bottom
> 1 roof
> a popdoor
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You got any pic's of yours? I will start milling the lumbar before labar day and try and finish it then. I need just 2x4 or 2x2 as-well?


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## lukem (Aug 10, 2011)

6 - 4x4 (corners and middle support)

4 - 2x8 (band boards)

1 - 2x6 (ridge beam)

? - 2x4 (rafters, rafter perling, side perling, nest box frames, roosts, etc)

Siding (we used T11)

Flooring (we used solid core doors)

Roofing (we used steel pro-rib)

I'll get you a pic this weekend.


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## smokinj (Aug 10, 2011)

lukem said:
			
		

> 6 - 4x4 (corners and middle support)
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> 4 - 2x8 (band boards)
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Sounds like a brick crap house....lol Love to see the pic's I am shooting for 3-5 hens tops.

Kinda long the lines of this...Small and portable. Be able to move it on top of the garden in the winter.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370533906687


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## lukem (Aug 10, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

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It is a beast.  The lumber put the truck on the bump stops and then some.  Don't remember the dims, but it was at least 8x12.

Kinda long the lines of this...Small and portable. Be able to move it on top of the garden in the winter.


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## smokinj (Aug 10, 2011)

lukem said:
			
		

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Thats the main thing.....I will be using hardwoods as well.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Aug 10, 2011)

1 unit 1" by 6" by 4' solid pine
1 unit 1" by 6" by 4' v-match pine 

1 square singles (three bundles)

Wire, conduit, light receptacle, electrical outlet, the boxes for preceding, a timer with manual stops (allows the use of a florescent lamp the digital ones don't always work).

A three gallon electrical (thermostatically controlled) water fountain (metal if possible)

A multiple pound feeder.

This is called hobby wood (mill ends) by Hancock lumber I got mine for $50 a unit which is close to 920 square feet of facing.

15 2" by 4" by 8' 

2 4" by 4" by 12' 

Don't forget the window area will need to be faced with hardware cloth with no larger than a 1/2" mesh, chicken wire should not be used except to keep chickens out of an area.

All doors need solid hinges and solid lockable latches.

Make certain the build your run solid and preferably covered. 

That should allow you to make a 4' by 8' coop that sits about three feet off of the ground and have plenty left over for another coop, a pile of tomato stakes, many 4' raised planter beds and assorted other stuff.

Frame the coop to resemble a ranch.

It is critical that the coop have a lot of ventilation and at the same time prevent the birds from being in a draft.


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## smokinj (Aug 10, 2011)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

> 1 unit 1" by 6" by 4' solid pine
> 1 unit 1" by 6" by 4' v-match pine
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> 1 square singles (three bundles)
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Are you heating it in the winter? Any insulation needed?


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## billb3 (Aug 11, 2011)

Ours were always pretty much sheds  but we  poured  about 1 - 2 inches of concrete on the floor over the plywood or boards. The floors of boards either got  thin tarpaper ( the stuff you used to use under wall shingles before tyvek) or just plain newspaper between the boards and concrete.

Chicken  sh!t will rot floor boards pretty quick without it.

It means you can't build a cheap bendy floor, but you'll probably do that anyway.


Plus you can wash  the floor out pretty quick and easy.



My brother just keeps replacing  his  top layer of 1/2 inch plywood floor when it gets nasty.
I don't think that's cheaper in the long run, but he'd rather do that.
It'll get torn up shovelling and scraping the  manure out  if you're not careful.


chickens are birds, they only need heat as chicks, they need a cool dry place out of the wind.
Without a lot of  ventilation in the Summer they can suffer.
Water can be a problem in Winter. They need it around just like a dog does.


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## smokinj (Aug 11, 2011)

billb3 said:
			
		

> Ours were always pretty much sheds  but we  poured  about 1 - 2 inches of concrete on the floor over the plywood or boards. The floors of boards either got  thin tarpaper ( the stuff you used to use under wall shingles before tyvek) or just plain newspaper between the boards and concrete.
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> Chicken  sh!t will rot floor boards pretty quick without it.
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Floor will be one inch Black walnut painted with a gloss white. Cheap to me but should be a strudy floor, and easier to power wash. Looks like it will be 8x4x5 three foot off the ground. Shingle roof and more black walnut for siding. Wind is a big issue at my place thinking of Styrofoam boards?


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## backpack09 (Aug 11, 2011)

They will eat styrafoam, caulk or anything else that they can peck at.  I had a nicely insulated coop at one time... not any more, oh well, they seem to keep warm enough in the winter.  My box is 4x6x4tall about 3' off the ground a large swinging door on the back to clean out the coop. 3 nest boxes on the sunny side of the coop.  all framed with 2x4s and 3/4" sheething.  Roof is shed style 2x4s at 20" o.c. with corrogated plastic roofing.  I will try and grab some pictures tonight.

I have 6 birds currently but had 10 last fall.

I would recommend checking out http://www.backyardchickens.com/ and their forum for lots of ideas on coop building and general chicken knowledge.


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## smokinj (Aug 11, 2011)

Backpack09 said:
			
		

> They will eat styrafoam, caulk or anything else that they can peck at.  I had a nicely insulated coop at one time... not any more, oh well, they seem to keep warm enough in the winter.  My box is 4x6x4tall about 3' off the ground a large swinging door on the back to clean out the coop. 3 nest boxes on the sunny side of the coop.  all framed with 2x4s and 3/4" sheething.  Roof is shed style 2x4s at 20" o.c. with corrogated plastic roofing.  I will try and grab some pictures tonight.
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> I have 6 birds currently but had 10 last fall.
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> I would recommend checking out http://www.backyardchickens.com/ and their forum for lots of ideas on coop building and general chicken knowledge.



Yea I am on that site now. I was thinking of a corrugated cardboard sandwich siding black walnut and a painted 1/4 osb on the inside?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Aug 11, 2011)

smokinjay,

If you keep the chickens dry and in a draft free coop they can stand a lot of cold.  I have two coops, one is double walled the other isn't the double wall was overkill.

Neither are insulated.

Chickens really hate it when the temperature climbs above 70 Â°F after they have fully feathered out (about 7 weeks of age) in fact the birds can easily over heat and die.

Yes by all means spend a lot of time in the section of BYC that deals with coops and run construction.  Pay particular attention to the folks that build fort Knox coop and runs then visit the Predators and Pest section there you'll find out why you pay attention to those folks.


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## smokinj (Aug 11, 2011)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

> smokinjay,
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> If you keep the chickens dry and in a draft free coop they can stand a lot of cold.  I have two coops, one is double walled the other isn't the double wall was overkill.
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Yea think I have a pretty good grasp. (For Now lol) I still thinking of double wall with 1/4 inch card board I would think it would help keep it a little cooler? What You think if it to much easy enough to scrap that idea?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Aug 11, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

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Over kill in my estimation.

To provide an example my "raised" ranch coop has a ridge vent that runs the length of the roof that has an equal area to the combined soffit vents on both sides.  This provides a lot of airflow and it places the air flow above the heads of the roosting birds (keeps them out of the draft).   The coop doesn't get any water in it except what is in their inside waterer.  This coop doesn't have a heated waterer (I may change that this fall).  There are two doors one for the birds and one along with end boards that I can pull out in order to empty the coops litter for the compost pile or the garden (depends upon the timing).

If you use a deep litter system the litter will actually act as both insulation and provide a spot for the birds to burrow in to stay cool (it will when it is working well produce a bit of heat, this takes time and really deep litter).


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## smokinj (Aug 11, 2011)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

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Hows your floor done and what you using for litter?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Aug 12, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

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Litter is pine shavings and the floor is pine in the ranch coop and tile in the other one (because it sits on the ground and the tile prevents entry by rodents).

Keep the litter dry and it doesn't matter what the flooring is.

You can even get the girls to help keep things well aerated and dry by tossing their scratch on the litter, they will then scratch the daylights out of it looking for the scratch.

I currently have 6 hens in the 4 x 8 coop and it worked fine last winter except the waterer needed to be tended to more than a heated larger one would.  One gallon unheated plastic waterers tend to freeze and crack.  But the birds were quite happy.  If things get really cold you can provide a something that reduces the area the birds are in it makes a huddle area.  The birds produce quite a bit of heat and will huddle to stay warm.   Their feed consumption also goes up in the cold weather.

The larger coop has a 5 gallon metal waterer that sits on a thermostatically controlled heating base, it has never frozen.  It would if the temperature got really really cold.


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## smokinj (Aug 12, 2011)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

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Sounds good. I have 15 pullets coming within 3 weeks. Plan on a 4x4x8. with a 8x8x4 run. Dont know how many will live or make it over the winter? any ideas if I am in the ball park on size?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Aug 12, 2011)

Your coop for 15 birds should be larger, I wouldn't go below 5 square feet per bird (the tables say 4 square feet but that depends upon the size of the birds and the amount of access time to the run) you should be looking at at least 10 square feet per bird of run space), it is better to have too much room in both the coop and the run than not enough.  When there isn't enough room there will be a lot of feather picking, possibly a bit of cannibalism, and there is no place to escape to if there is a coop bully.  If you are also planing on having roosters make it no more than one.  Better to wear out the Roo than the hens.

Three nest boxes should suffice and don't be surprised if they fight over the same nest box when it comes time to lay.  Even with several open nest boxews it isn't uncommon to find several birds in the same box at the same time and the rest yelling at them to hurry up so they can use the nest.   Be certain that the nest boxes are well lined (deep I use pine shavings for that as well).

ETA: I turn the aged litter into vegetables in the garden, be certain it is well aged before doing so.


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## smokinj (Aug 12, 2011)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

> Your coop for 15 birds should be larger, I wouldn't go below 5 square feet per bird (the tables say 4 square feet but that depends upon the size of the birds and the amount of access time to the run) you should be looking at at least 10 square feet per bird of run space), it is better to have too much room in both the coop and the run than not enough.  When there isn't enough room there will be a lot of feather picking, possibly a bit of cannibalism, and there is no place to escape to if there is a coop bully.  If you are also planing on having roosters make it no more than one.  Better to wear out the Roo than the hens.
> 
> Three nest boxes should suffice and don't be surprised if they fight over the same nest box when it comes time to lay.  Even with several open nest boxews it isn't uncommon to find several birds in the same box at the same time and the rest yelling at them to hurry up so they can use the nest.   Be certain that the nest boxes are well lined (deep I use pine shavings for that as well).
> 
> ETA: I turn the aged litter into vegetables in the garden, be certain it is well aged before doing so.




15 was a mimium order...The run will be 8x8x8 and also the the area under the coop 4x8x2-1/2. Really wanted 7 and want the coop movable. I have a friend with a large coop that will take any I want to get rid of. Figure I would give them a couple months then break down the flock if need be. Not looking to get a rooster if I dont need one...


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## billb3 (Aug 12, 2011)

If you're after max egg production you'll want a light and timer to make them think the days are longer.
Otherwise they'll spend the Winter partying at your expense.  

You might want a couple  galvanized  garbage barrels to keep grain in.
It attracts mice and rats.

We used broom handles for roosts.
Some breeds  need them, some will  sit on the floor at night.


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I swear chicken manure beats all the others for gardening.

My dad raised broilers at one time and the local farmers would come clean out his coops and take it to spread on their fields  when it was  slaughter time.
I do remember once or twice shoveling them out ourselves when no one could come.
300,000 , iirc. there were a few barns. 

The ammonia could be a bit overwhelming in July. Even with all the windows open.   



If I could sell the eggs to pay for the grain I'd have chickens  just for the manure for the garden.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Aug 12, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

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No rooster needed to get eggs.   It is just that a rooster helps with other things and since I didn't know your plans I just wanted to warn you about not having too few hens and then seeing the damage a Roo can cause.


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## Mrs. Krabappel (Aug 13, 2011)

4X4X8 is the size I have for 6 full sized and 6 bantams.     I had a small short coop that I had to crouch and bend to access.   Terrible.  My new coop I can walk inside.  Love it.    I bought a used dog pen and put that up with the coop,  though they free range in the yard most of the time.   My hens did prefer the old coop for laying because it's darker.   They don't lay in any of the nest boxes in the new coop.  They either lay on top of a spare bale of shavings, or in a rabbit cage I also have in the dog pen for a mama bantam with little chicks.   It's comical to watch my big hens try to squeeze in there.  

What kind of pullets?  

You may need to provide heat for those pullets for a couple of weeks when the weather cools down at night.  

I personally would go with the double walled idea.  Mine were really hot this summer, and I worry about them when it gets below 20 in winter.  Though my friend in Vermont worries not at all and hers lose toes and comb to frostbite.   

As already mentioned, the best way to deal with bedding is just to keep piling it on instead of cleaning it out a lot.   It doesn't get smelly because it composts and it actually provides extra heat in the winter.   I keep a bale of shavings in teh coop and just toss some around when I am in there.   I first cleaned my out like every week.  Now only about 4 times a year.    What gets smelly is the food if they have the opportunity to make a mess.     Get some diatomacious earth and sprinkle it around regularly to take care of mites.   

Have fun!  They are addicting.   

These pictures are very similar to my coop.


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## smokinj (Aug 13, 2011)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

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I will post pic when I get started next weekend. You Know your birds!


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## smokinj (Aug 13, 2011)

billb3 said:
			
		

> If you're after max egg production you'll want a light and timer to make them think the days are longer.
> Otherwise they'll spend the Winter partying at your expense.
> 
> You might want a couple  galvanized  garbage barrels to keep grain in.
> ...



Thats where I am at....Selling them will not be an issue, no real money in it but will pay for the grain.


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## smokinj (Aug 13, 2011)

~*~Kathleen~*~ said:
			
		

> 4X4X8 is the size I have for 6 full sized and 6 bantams.     I had a small short coop that I had to crouch and bend to access.   Terrible.  My new coop I can walk inside.  Love it.    I bought a used dog pen and put that up with the coop,  though they free range in the yard most of the time.   My hens did prefer the old coop for laying because it's darker.   They don't lay in any of the nest boxes in the new coop.  They either lay on top of a spare bale of shavings, or in a rabbit cage I also have in the dog pen for a mama bantam with little chicks.   It's comical to watch my big hens try to squeeze in there.
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Yea I think I will Insulate the top and bottom. I have 4 windows going in as well to grab the sun light, and wiring it for electric. If need be I am thinking a fan pushing air in the summer.


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## Mrs. Krabappel (Aug 13, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> Yea I think I will Insulate the top and bottom. I have 4 windows going in as well to grab the sun light, and wiring it for electric. If need be I am thinking a fan pushing air in the summer.



Would love that for my coop.   Sounds wonderful,  as they will spend more time inside in the winter.    Maybe try to build your nest boxes pretty covered so it feels like a darker space?   


p.s.  My mad face smilie was supposed to be about the hens not laying in the boxes.    Anyway, I did not provide light last year and got eggs all year, but if I had electricity I probably would.


I never thought I'd have a rooster but I love mine.    I wouldn't keep one that was aggressive to me or the hens.


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## smokinj (Aug 13, 2011)

~*~Kathleen~*~ said:
			
		

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I have some 1/4 cardboard 4x4 for the installation so far have gotten the shingles,2x4's wiring light and window all free-be value. Oh and deer for eggs....lol so a fun cheap project that I should be able to keep under 100.00 bucks.

Here's what I am looking to build but the lying boxs on the back and window on the side as well. Oh siding will be black walnut!  

http://www.efowl.com/Daisy_Coop_Chicken_Coop_Plans_p/3502.htm


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## SmokeyTheBear (Aug 13, 2011)

Roos serve several purposes two of which are bully control and to sound the alarm (when not slacking off) when something bad this way comes.

But too many Roos will do damage to the hens.

Birds are classified into broad classes based upon size and the coop space needed is based upon the classes your birds are in and the proportion of time they are confined in the coop.  So what works for space in a warm climate isn't close to be useful in a colder climate. What works for standard hens isn't that great for heavy birds.

This is one of the mistakes that is commonly made when building a coop.

My birds haven't lost anything due to frostbite, but frost bite can be a major problem if the birds or their coops are not dry and the birds are exposed to drafts.

Find a copy of Storey's Guide to Raising Chickens and read it.  Best $18.95 you will spend to find out about chickens.


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## smokinj (Aug 13, 2011)

Here is what I went with any insite is cool! 


http://www.efowl.com/Silver_Laced_Wyandotte_Chickens_p/1087.htm


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## Mrs. Krabappel (Aug 13, 2011)

Love them!  My neighbor has a gorgeous roo for you (that I gave him as a tiny chick  :shut: )     Looking forward to pics.


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## smokinj (Aug 13, 2011)

~*~Kathleen~*~ said:
			
		

> Love them!  My neighbor has a gorgeous roo for you (that I gave him as a tiny chick  :shut: )     Looking forward to pics.



Starting to see where the roo is important...Build will start next weekend and finish by labor day weekend..(This is how I spend long weekends) I pic up some more free stuff today. Budget of this prodject is looking good should be the only black walnut coop anywhere! I hope.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Aug 14, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> Here is what I went with any insite is cool!
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> http://www.efowl.com/Silver_Laced_Wyandotte_Chickens_p/1087.htm



I've never had a Wyandotte chicken,  I started out with a dual purpose flock and have since gone to a hybrid layer.   I still have 3 of the dual purpose birds from my first flock here.  I have a freind who swears by barred rocks, they are being raised to produce eggs and as meat birds.  They keep three of the current flock, start a new flock, and send the unlucky ones off to freezer camp.

My current birds will get to live out their lives and not go to freezer camp, even the miscreant named Buttons.

I will decide next year if I will raise another flock of layers or maybe some meat birds (there's a limit to how many I want to deal with on the butchering side).

My mixed flock, had White Rocks, Buff Orpingtons, Production Reds, Gold Comets, and Jersey Giants.

Of those five the one with the best temperament was the Jersey Giants, these are very large birds.  The best egg layers were the Gold Comets which like the Production Red are a smaller bird.

Each bird and each breed is different as you will discover.

Good luck.


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## smokinj (Aug 14, 2011)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

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Wow really didn't know it could go so deep but that really adds to the fun...Next week I should have some pics on the coop, probally over kill it but thats just my personality to a degree...Your expertize is better than I have found anywhere! Thank You....


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## Mrs. Krabappel (Aug 17, 2011)

Was thinking about this thread while puttering around my coop today.  I could seriously have only one or two nest boxes, as they all lay in the same spot.  It's roost space that I could use more of.     They all want to roost up high.   I have a 2x4 with a ladder, but a fat bossy hen likes to perch right at the top of the ladder and block the wimpy-er hens.   

So---plenty of high roost space with a couple of access points.

Only my ridiculous roo spends the night in a nest box because he is like a weeble and cannot navigate vertically.


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## smokinj (Aug 17, 2011)

~*~Kathleen~*~ said:
			
		

> Was thinking about this thread while puttering around my coop today.  I could seriously have only one or two nest boxes, as they all lay in the same spot.  It's roost space that I could use more of.     They all want to roost up high.   I have a 2x4 with a ladder, but a fat bossy hen likes to perch right at the top of the ladder and block the wimpy-er hens.
> 
> So---plenty of high roost space with a couple of access points.
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> Only my ridiculous roo spends the night in a nest box because he is like a weeble and cannot navigate vertically.



LOL...Went to the State fair yesterday I know why they did that now.....Also notice the top and bottom was insulated and fan in the window.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Aug 18, 2011)

I started out with a tiered roosting arrangement and changed it last year after I did my butchering to a single 2 x 4 running the length of the coop.  The change worked out just fine, no more birds getting pooped on from above and a lot less roosting squabbles.

About the nest boxes I swear you only need one after they have all started laying, but when they are just starting out they tend to want their very own nest.  You have to admit it comical to look in the coop and find four birds at a time in a nest box.


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## smokinj (Aug 18, 2011)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

> I started out with a tiered roosting arrangement and changed it last year after I did my butchering to a single 2 x 4 running the length of the coop.  The change worked out just fine, no more birds getting pooped on from above and a lot less roosting squabbles.
> 
> About the nest boxes I swear you only need one after they have all started laying, but when they are just starting out they tend to want their very own nest.  You have to admit it comical to look in the coop and find four birds at a time in a nest box.



We walk through the chix barn at the St. Fair. Lot of good lookng birds...Funny one too!


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## JDC1 (Aug 18, 2011)

The chicken version of Hearth.com is www.backyardchickens.com 

They have a ton of useful info and coop ideas in their forums.

We have a coop inside of our barn for our flock, and I usually do a batch of meat birds every year in a movable pen.  One thing to consider is that if there is alot of snow, they usually will not go out much in the winter.  If they are too cramped, it will cause issues such as egg eating and feather picking that are hard to stop.  They are great for fertilizing the lawn and tick and bug control if you let them free range for a few hours a night.  They will go right back to their coop at dusk and you close the door.  If you decide to keep a roo make sure to handle it as much as possible while it is a chick to make sure that it doesnt get mean.  We have out 4 yo daughter raise our chicks and they are very friendly.  Good luck, there is nothing better than an omelet w/ eggs and veggies that you grew.


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## smokinj (Aug 18, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

> The chicken version of Hearth.com is www.backyardchickens.com
> 
> They have a ton of useful info and coop ideas in their forums.
> 
> We have a coop inside of our barn for our flock, and I usually do a batch of meat birds every year in a movable pen.  One thing to consider is that if there is alot of snow, they usually will not go out much in the winter.  If they are too cramped, it will cause issues such as egg eating and feather picking that are hard to stop.  They are great for fertilizing the lawn and tick and bug control if you let them free range for a few hours a night.  They will go right back to their coop at dusk and you close the door.  If you decide to keep a roo make sure to handle it as much as possible while it is a chick to make sure that it doesnt get mean.  We have out 4 yo daughter raise our chicks and they are very friendly.  Good luck, there is nothing better than an omelet w/ eggs and veggies that you grew.



Stop and bought 4 dozen off a guy last night and did just that. The flavor just tasted more like an egg if that makes sense... ;-)


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## JDC1 (Aug 18, 2011)

People always comment on how dark orange and firm our yolks are.  We feed kitchen scraps and sunflower seed in addition to their layers ration and scratch grains.  If I get a round that has ants in it it goes straight to the chickens.  I also will take a piece of cardboard or wood and put it in their pen.  After a few days, I lift it and let them eat the worms.  

If you are going to keep them inside a run, I would recommend putting sand or gravel in to keep the mud down.


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## smokinj (Aug 18, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

> People always comment on how dark orange and firm our yolks are.  We feed kitchen scraps and sunflower seed in addition to their layers ration and scratch grains.  If I get a round that has ants in it it goes straight to the chickens.  I also will take a piece of cardboard or wood and put it in their pen.  After a few days, I lift it and let them eat the worms.
> 
> If you are going to keep them inside a run, I would recommend putting sand or gravel in to keep the mud down.



Going to keep it portable and move it often. I have a couple 88,000 sqft of grass. I like the idea of the bug in the wood that happens often. Lots of worms where I am at as well.


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## JDC1 (Aug 18, 2011)

You will notice that the laying hens barely go through any feed or water in the summertime as they are great at providing for themselves.  Even the day old chicks will scratch and peck in the grass.  For our meat birds its another story.  I raised 50 to 6 weeks and was going through 10 gallons of water a day and towards the end 100+ lbs of feed a week.


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## smokinj (Aug 18, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

> You will notice that the laying hens barely go through any feed or water in the summertime as they are great at providing for themselves.  Even the day old chicks will scratch and peck in the grass.  For our meat birds its another story.  I raised 50 to 6 weeks and was going through 10 gallons of water a day and towards the end 100+ lbs of feed a week.




Do you butcher them yourself? If so what kind of time does it take?


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## JDC1 (Aug 18, 2011)

We are in the original farmhouse that sold the majority of its property to a golf course.  I have about 15 cords stacked 30 yards from the 13th green.  The community that surrounds us is pretty upscale and I am surprised at how they have embraced our bees, goats and chickens.  I think that if we butchered here, it would be a touchy subject.  It is also just like everything else depends on the tools and proper equipment that you have available.  I take mine to the amish and pay $2.00/ bird to have it done.  We drop off in the evening and pickup the following day.  If you have access to a plucker and scalder, I dont think it would take that long to do a large batch of birds.


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## smokinj (Aug 18, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

> We are in the original farmhouse that sold the majority of its property to a golf course.  I have about 15 cords stacked 30 yards from the 13th green.  The community that surrounds us is pretty upscale and I am surprised at how they have embraced our bees, goats and chickens.  I think that if we butchered here, it would be a touchy subject.  It is also just like everything else depends on the tools and proper equipment that you have available.  I take mine to the amish and pay $2.00/ bird to have it done.  We drop off in the evening and pickup the following day.  If you have access to a plucker and scalder, I dont think it would take that long to do a large batch of birds.



I like the 2.00 a bird thing...lol Still just about throw up guting a deer. Always have....


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## JDC1 (Aug 18, 2011)

Deer dont bother me so much anymore since I got one of those gerber zippers to gut them.  With the chickens, even after I have someone else do the processing, I still cant eat chicken for about a week after I am done getting them ready for the freezer.  It always rains on the day that I take them and I get grossed out just putting them in the transport crates.  We drop off the chickens and then pick up meat in plastic bags it is great.


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## smokinj (Aug 18, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

> Deer dont bother me so much anymore since I got one of those gerber zippers to gut them.  With the chickens, even after I have someone else do the processing, I still cant eat chicken for about a week after I am done getting them ready for the freezer.  It always rains on the day that I take them and I get grossed out just putting them in the transport crates.  We drop off the chickens and then pick up meat in plastic bags it is great.



I think this is something I want to do aswell. How big the coop need to be for 50 meat birds?


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## JDC1 (Aug 18, 2011)

Fifty birds was alot to do at once.  I had them in an 8x10' coop and moved it 2-3 times a day.  Last year we did 25 slow broilers in the same coop and it was alot easier to do.  Check out Joel Salatin's books and backyardchickens.com for ideas.  It is very easy to do.  I dont know if you save any money but you do know exactly what you are eating.


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## smokinj (Aug 18, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

> Fifty birds was alot to do at once.  I had them in an 8x10' coop and moved it 2-3 times a day.  Last year we did 25 slow broilers in the same coop and it was alot easier to do.  Check out Joel Salatin's books and backyardchickens.com for ideas.  It is very easy to do.  I dont know if you save any money but you do know exactly what you are eating.



I fugure if your birds are around the 8lb mark and up you should do well. Much under you would be losing. Around here whole bird go for at best .99 cents a lb.(thats not often 2x a year) 1.49 is more like it. 
What was your ave. weight of the birds?


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## JDC1 (Aug 18, 2011)

Last years "freedom rangers"(qty 25) were on average 5lbs butchered at 10 weeks.  This year I did cornish crosses and butchered 54 at 6 weeks average of 3lbs which is the size that we prefer.  Both batches ate 500lbs of custom milled feed.  I have about $6.50/ bird including feed, butchering, fuel, and wood shavings for the brooder.  $2.00/ pound and a bit of elbow grease is worth it to us especially w/ young kids.  I sold 10 birds for $3.50/lb and a few for $4.50 to cover some costs.  If you market them as naturally raised on pasture there are people that will pay a premium.  I like the flavor and texture of the cornish crosses better than the freedom rangers.  The rangers are less work and act more like a chicken than the cornish x.  They are also a prettier bird.


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## smokinj (Aug 18, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

> Last years "freedom rangers"(qty 25) were on average 5lbs butchered at 10 weeks.  This year I did cornish crosses and butchered 54 at 6 weeks average of 3lbs which is the size that we prefer.  Both batches ate 500lbs of custom milled feed.  I have about $6.50/ bird including feed, butchering, fuel, and wood shavings for the brooder.  $2.00/ pound and a bit of elbow grease is worth it to us especially w/ young kids.  I sold 10 birds for $3.50/lb and a few for $4.50 to cover some costs.  If you market them as naturally raised on pasture there are people that will pay a premium.  I like the flavor and texture of the cornish crosses better than the freedom rangers.  The rangers are less work and act more like a chicken than the cornish x.  They are also a prettier bird.




Very interesting to say the least. if I can find butcher around here I will do at-least 25 in the spring. Coustom milled feed? You make it yourself?


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## JDC1 (Aug 18, 2011)

Right now would be a great time to do them as we get close to fall.  The older that the birds get the less they can tolerate heat.  But the chicks need a heat lamp for a few weeks.  If you call some feed stores, they should be able to point you towards a processor.


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## smokinj (Aug 18, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

> Right now would be a great time to do them as we get close to fall.  The older that the birds get the less they can tolerate heat.  But the chicks need a heat lamp for a few weeks.  If you call some feed stores, they should be able to point you towards a processor.



You make your own feed?


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## JDC1 (Aug 18, 2011)

I have a mill make it but with the cost increase of corn and soy, I think I found a better feed for the same cost.  Kalmbach feeds in western OH, has a broiler ration that looks pretty good and I can save about $10/ 500 lbs


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## smokinj (Aug 18, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

> I have a mill make it but with the cost increase of corn and soy, I think I found a better feed for the same cost.  Kalmbach feeds in western OH, has a broiler ration that looks pretty good and I can save about $10/ 500 lbs



I can get corn or soy beans at market price. Thought about grinding my own. I will have at-least 400lbs of corn still on the cob for free. Just walking the fields around my house after harvest.


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## JDC1 (Aug 18, 2011)

There has to be a certain amount of protein and minerals to maximize the genetic growth potential of broiler birds in the most humane way.  They are prone to outgrowing their bone structure, heart, lung and other problems if not fed properly.  My problem with mixing my own was not being able to buy the additives to the feed in a cost efficient scale.  Things like probiotics, kelp meal, vitamins etc.  The cornish crosses are sensitive to temperature too hot or too cold, to much rain, space requirements, stress brooder conditions.  They are pretty fragile but if you meet these requirements then they produce alot of great meat in a short amount of time.  There are people that are getting 7 and 8lb birds at 8-9 weeks.


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## smokinj (Aug 18, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

> There has to be a certain amount of protein and minerals to maximize the genetic growth potential of broiler birds in the most humane way.  They are prone to outgrowing their bone structure, heart, lung and other problems if not fed properly.  My problem with mixing my own was not being able to buy the additives to the feed in a cost efficient scale.  Things like probiotics, kelp meal, vitamins etc.  The cornish crosses are sensitive to temperature too hot or too cold, to much rain, space requirements, stress brooder conditions.  They are pretty fragile but if you meet these requirements then they produce alot of great meat in a short amount of time.  There are people that are getting 7 and 8lb birds at 8-9 weeks.



Thats the #'s I am looking for...I was thinking just tossing in the corn cobs with the regular feed, or I can even crack it if need be. (but would rather not if there isnt a big pay back)


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## JDC1 (Aug 18, 2011)

I was aiming for and was on track for the bigger birds but we got that heat wave the same week that I would have had to place another feed order and decided that a bird in hand...  If you walked by the pasture pen you could hear them panting from 20 yards away.


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## smokinj (Aug 18, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

> I was aiming for and was on track for the bigger birds but we got that heat wave the same week that I would have had to place another feed order and decided that a bird in hand...  If you walked by the pasture pen you could hear them panting from 20 yards away.



Where you Running fans?  Iam also going to insulate the roof and bottom. Egg lyer will be here the 23rd of this month, so meat will need to be on hold until I can get another coop built. With the extra stuff lying around may happen quick enough.


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## lukem (Aug 18, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

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There's an Amish guy that dresses them pretty cheap here too...if it wasn't for him I probably wouldn't be up for it.  I don't mind the blood and guts, just don't have the skills/equipment/patience/time to process them myself.  

I'm looking at doing some meat birds next spring.  My FIL did the math (don't know the specifics) but I'd have about $1/lb in them from chick to freezer.  Way better quality than what you can buy at K-rogers...for half the price.  

I have about 6 too many projects right now, so I need to wait a bit before starting my chicken ranching career.


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## smokinj (Aug 18, 2011)

lukem said:
			
		

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Yea me too...The Gf loves this kinda of stuff and when the math is 1.00 a lb I am all in......Mill will be rolling Sunday so 2- 4x8 coops not a big strech when a long weekend coming up!


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## JDC1 (Aug 18, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

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I use a movable chicken "tractor" from three weeks till slaughter they are in an 8x10x2' movable pen.  I move it a few times a day and they have access to fresh clover/grass/bugs.  The meat birds are nothing like a laying hen.  They produce massive amounts of manure in a short amount of time.  It gets pretty gross if they are allowed to stay in one area for a more than a few hours.  They dont really range like a hen will but lay by the feeder and waterer.  The advantage of the tractor is that you dont have to clean up the mess, it gets them on fresh forage and it fertilizes the area that you use.


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## lukem (Aug 18, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

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I was going to mention earlier, mill up a set of skids/skis and build the rest of the coop on them.  If you taper each end 45* facing up  ========/ then you can drag them into position with your lawn mower or pickup.


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## JDC1 (Aug 18, 2011)

lukem said:
			
		

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For a meat bird pen, if you make it light enough to drag by hand it will make it alot easier to move a few times a day.  I tried using my 4wheeler winch and ended up running over a chicken with the back side of the pen.  2"x2"s work pretty well


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## smokinj (Aug 18, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

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Even better!


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## cptoneleg (Aug 19, 2011)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

> smokinjay,
> 
> If you keep the chickens dry and in a draft free coop they can stand a lot of cold.  I have two coops, one is double walled the other isn't the double wall was overkill.
> 
> ...





Or get some Texas chickens just got back from trip their, something like 70 days above 100*


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## Mrs. Krabappel (Aug 19, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

> The meat birds are nothing like a laying hen.  They produce massive amounts of manure in a short amount of time.  It gets pretty gross if they are allowed to stay in one area for a more than a few hours.  They dont really range like a hen will but lay by the feeder and waterer.



This was true for the freedom rangers?  I've been thinking about running a dozen of them.   Maybe next spring if I can get my act together.


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## JDC1 (Aug 19, 2011)

~*~Kathleen~*~ said:
			
		

> JDC said:
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The rangers still poop a ton.  I kept them in the same pasture pen as the cornish xs so I cannot comment on how far they will forage.  They took about 10 weeks to get to a 5lb finished weight.


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## Mrs. Krabappel (Aug 19, 2011)

What did you think of the rangers vs.  the cornish X?


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## JDC1 (Aug 19, 2011)

The rangers were more enjoyable while alive.  The cornish cross more enjoyable after processing.  The x's have more of a grocery store chicken shape and plump breast.  The rangers are a longer leaner bird.


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## smokinj (Aug 19, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

> The rangers were more enjoyable while alive.  The cornish cross more enjoyable after processing.  The x's have more of a grocery store chicken shape and plump breast.  The rangers are a longer leaner bird.



Ok I am on board I think 25 would be a good number to start with for me...What would you buy if you where me?


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## JDC1 (Aug 19, 2011)

I would say try them both.  Going into this fall, the cornish crosses will give you a bigger bird in a shorter amount of time.  We are not going to have to worry too much about extreme heat, they can take the cold surprisingly well.  My wife likes the cornish crosses better for eating as the they seem to pluck out better.  If you like raising your own meat birds, then try some rangers next spring.  Meyer Hatchery in ohio is a great place to order from and they carry both types of birds (the rangers are drop shipped out of PA).


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## smokinj (Aug 19, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

> I would say try them both.  Going into this fall, the cornish crosses will give you a bigger bird in a shorter amount of time.  We are not going to have to worry too much about extreme heat, they can take the cold surprisingly well.  My wife likes the cornish crosses better for eating as the they seem to pluck out better.  If you like raising your own meat birds, then try some rangers next spring.  Meyer Hatchery in ohio is a great place to order from and they carry both types of birds (the rangers are drop shipped out of PA).



I have gotten better info in this thread then I could have hope for! BIG THANK YOU TO EVERONE!


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## JDC1 (Aug 19, 2011)

No problem Jay, I would recommend checking out the meat bird section in www.backyardchickens.com there is a ton of useful info on meat birds.  If you have never tried a pasture raised bird it is well worth it.  The meat has a firmer texture, a richer taste and you know exactly what you are eating.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Aug 19, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

> No problem Jay, I would recommend checking out the meat bird section in www.backyardchickens.com there is a ton of useful info on meat birds.  If you have never tried a pasture raised bird it is well worth it.  The meat has a firmer texture, a richer taste and you know exactly what you are eating.



For all things chicken BYC is very good.  They recently passed the 100,000 member mark.


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## cptoneleg (Aug 19, 2011)

Heat tolerant Texas Chickens


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## phatfarmerbob (Aug 20, 2011)

Heres my coup , i have about 25 birds now but 10 are last years and i am going to be geting rid of them soon as the new ones are starting to lay now.  there are two sections seperated by a door, that usually stays open unless i have two batches of birds. notice the chicken wire in the eves, thats to keep critters out.  also it has a dirt floor because i have found they do better when they can peck at the dirt , all i do is dig the manure out twice a year and throw in some new topsoil and straw.  No heat has been needed ever and last winter was pretty cold, but you gotta get the eggs out in the AM and PM as they will freeze and crack.  Water is a PITA but i broke down and bought a heated water last winter, it worked great.  light is only necessarry in jan and feb on a timer to come on at 4 am and go off at 730 that tricks them into thinking its spring and they lay more eggs.  also i dug the base boards into the soil about 6 inches cause animals will dig under to get the birds. even doing that i have lost some in the past to a persistant weasel.  as for meat birds i raised 10 cornish roasters from murry mc murry this year,,, 10 weeks from chick to butchering and they dressed out at 7.3 pounds average.  as for layers i have buff orphingtons, partgrige rocks and Red star, all are pretty docile birds that dont beat each other up, which can be a problem with some breeds.   any questions just ask


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## SmokeyTheBear (Aug 20, 2011)

cptoneleg said:
			
		

> Heat tolerant Texas Chickens



Now where have I seen that picture before could it have been on BYC?


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## cptoneleg (Aug 20, 2011)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

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Oh I don't know I have seriosly considerd building a coop and start raising some, I have nosed around BYC  to get some  imformation.


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## smokinj (Aug 25, 2011)

15 new chix's are here....Time to build!


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## Mrs. Krabappel (Aug 26, 2011)

CUTE

When I have chicks without a mama, I put a stuffed animal or the like in for them to hide under and cuddle when they are tiny.  I started doing this after I raised some with a mama and saw how much care she took with them and how they like to hide under her.


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## smokinj (Aug 26, 2011)

~*~Kathleen~*~ said:
			
		

> CUTE
> 
> When I have chicks without a mama, I put a stuffed animal or the like in for them to hide under and cuddle when they are tiny.  I started doing this after I raised some with a mama and saw how much care she took with them and how they like to hide under her.



Nice! Will do asap. Thanks there are all huddling together.


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## Stump_Branch (Aug 26, 2011)

Oh its amazing what you find on hearth...

Our 5 just started laying, pulled a monster out just an hour ago.

I used standard lumber, jay i have no doubt yours will be heafty. Ours is 16 x 8 i wrapped all but the roor in galv wire, including the whole floor. On one end, i build a coop about 2 feet off the ground. I made it out of 3/4 subfloor, so it can hold up. We have a stair like roost for them, 2x2  work here as this is where the bulk of the manure ends up. Two story..nesting booxes on the other. We used the same 2x2s as roof perlins and corregated plastic roofing. 

What ever you do make sure you can get in to clean. Make the run big enough for them. And give them stuff to climb on and roost. We made ours semi moveable so we can change it up and let  them scratch in other areas

Layers stay clean, we had meat chickens, and they are tasty, just not sure its worth the effort. 

Good luck, they are fun,and byc is a great tool like hearth. Ill try to get pics, hard with cell phone only.


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## JDC1 (Aug 27, 2011)

We got sick of ordering new chicks and like to hatch as well.  This year we got 2 roosters and 5 welsummer hens.  As soon as they start laying, we should be able to hatch our own pure breeds.


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## smokinj (Aug 27, 2011)

~*~Kathleen~*~ said:
			
		

> CUTE
> 
> When I have chicks without a mama, I put a stuffed animal or the like in for them to hide under and cuddle when they are tiny.  I started doing this after I raised some with a mama and saw how much care she took with them and how they like to hide under her.



Wow this works...After doing some rearrangement's there really liking the teddy!  :cheese:


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## smokinj (Aug 27, 2011)

Stump_Branch said:
			
		

> Oh its amazing what you find on hearth...
> 
> Our 5 just started laying, pulled a monster out just an hour ago.
> 
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Oh thats is what I am thinking! Weight seems to be hudge I want to be able to move it.


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## smokinj (Aug 27, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

> We got sick of ordering new chicks and like to hatch as well.  This year we got 2 roosters and 5 welsummer hens.  As soon as they start laying, we should be able to hatch our own pure breeds.



Darn sure no where near what you know...Hope to get there!


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## Mrs. Krabappel (Aug 28, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> Wow this works...After doing some rearrangement's there really liking the teddy!  :cheese:



Good to hear! 


I went to a chicken swap today to SELL some of my chicks.   I came home with 3X more than I brought with me  :roll:


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## SmokeyTheBear (Aug 28, 2011)

~*~Kathleen~*~ said:
			
		

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No, no according to chicken math you came home with 1/3 the number of chickens you took with you, that means you need to go back and get twice as many as you came home with.   Ain't chicken math fun ;-).


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## smokinj (Aug 28, 2011)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

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LOL Too funny! I have decide to Make two coops and the second one will be set up for meat chix's and goats, And turkeys! On a rotation!


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## lukem (Aug 31, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

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My FIL said something about getting 100 cornish crosses this fall.  He may be crazy enough to actually do it too.

We finished his coop last weekend.  It is 8x16...a chicken barn.


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## smokinj (Aug 31, 2011)

lukem said:
			
		

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That would do 100....lol I am thinking 50. Going 4x8 (16ft run)on this one and as soon as its done i am doing a  8x8 out of polar (20 foot run) for meat.


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## lukem (Aug 31, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

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There is a 20ishx60ish run for them.


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## thewoodlands (Aug 31, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

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Smokin are you building on skids?


zap


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## smokinj (Aug 31, 2011)

zapny said:
			
		

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No it will be more like stilts! The floor will be 2 foot off the ground and its portable. It Will do lots of laps around the garden! lol The 8x8 will be on wheels.


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## thewoodlands (Aug 31, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

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Sounds like you might need one of these down the road.

http://www.schweisswelding.com/sections/video.php



zap


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## smokinj (Aug 31, 2011)

zapny said:
			
		

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No way! lol I cant stand that kinda of stuff....Lived on a farm could not handle it then. Deer hunting isnt much easier for me! For 2.25 per bird you can get them freezer wrap and cooking instruction ready for sale or freeze. Thats money well spent in my book!


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## JDC1 (Aug 31, 2011)

zapny said:
			
		

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That just reinforces why I have them processed.


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## Mrs. Krabappel (Sep 5, 2011)

Waiting for pics of the chicken palace!

I sold my roo at the chicken swap Saturday and without him my hens have already started wandering too far.   I have a baby roo who is not quite up to the task of keeping them in line yet.  

So, I'm headed out today to pick up a BIG beautiful docile light brahma roo I found on CL.    Interesting to see what the gals think of that.


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## MasterMech (Sep 5, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

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+Infinity 

I processed meat birds when we had a group ready for a 100% certified organic farm I worked on. (Lived on 1 farm, worked on another as a kid, does that qualify as 2 jobs?) We used a device to pluck feathers that used the same rubber fingers as the one in the link.  It was a rotating tub with the fingers inside and it rinsed the feathers away with hot water. (I was usually scalding/plucking.)  Three of us could do 200 birds easy in a weekend.  Those were some of the most unpleasant weekends I ever spent farming but hands down the best fresh chicken I've ever had.  Any other meat animals I produced were always dropped off at the slaughterhouse and picked up in packages.

Jay I really wish I could dig up a pic of the coop we used for the meat birds once they had grown a bit.  It was basically a half-moon framed with galv. fence pipe and wire/mesh stretched around it.  It had 4 wheels and we used to tow it around the hay fields just after they were cut.  The birds would graze the alfalfa through the mesh bottom and provide fertilizer along the way.  Plus it was super easy to clean in-between batches.  Just be sure to tie it down during windstorms. Found the birds on the other side of the field once, whoops!


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## smokinj (Sep 6, 2011)

~*~Kathleen~*~ said:
			
		

> Waiting for pics of the chicken palace!
> 
> I sold my roo at the chicken swap Saturday and without him my hens have already started wandering too far.   I have a baby roo who is not quite up to the task of keeping them in line yet.
> 
> So, I'm headed out today to pick up a BIG beautiful docile light brahma roo I found on CL.    Interesting to see what the gals think of that.




Not done yet started siding today..Be doing details after work (lighting calking)  framing, 3 window painting floor and back wall painted roof is done. 3/4 of the front is sided with 3/4 inch black walnut and bees waxed...Its really taking shape. Scronges henges for all three windows and the front double doors today as well.


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## smokinj (Sep 6, 2011)

MasterMech said:
			
		

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+Infinity 

I processed meat birds when we had a group ready for a 100% certified organic farm I worked on. (Lived on 1 farm, worked on another as a kid, does that qualify as 2 jobs?) We used a device to pluck feathers that used the same rubber fingers as the one in the link.  It was a rotating tub with the fingers inside and it rinsed the feathers away with hot water. (I was usually scalding/plucking.)  Three of us could do 200 birds easy in a weekend.  Those were some of the most unpleasant weekends I ever spent farming but hands down the best fresh chicken I've ever had.  Any other meat animals I produced were always dropped off at the slaughterhouse and picked up in packages.

Jay I really wish I could dig up a pic of the coop we used for the meat birds once they had grown a bit.  It was basically a half-moon framed with galv. fence pipe and wire/mesh stretched around it.  It had 4 wheels and we used to tow it around the hay fields just after they were cut.  The birds would graze the alfalfa through the mesh bottom and provide fertilizer along the way.  Plus it was super easy to clean in-between batches.  Just be sure to tie it down during windstorms. Found the birds on the other side of the field once, whoops![/quote]

I need pic's for sure want some thing much simpler for the meat chickens. These eye layers are going to be some spoiled birds. Even the inside is painted to help reflect the sun light and fluorescent lights. lol


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## JDC1 (Sep 6, 2011)

If you google search "chicken tractor" there are a million different ideas.  Just one thing to keep in mind- Light enough to move very easily but heavy enough to buck the wind.


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## smokinj (Sep 6, 2011)

More to follow.


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## thewoodlands (Sep 6, 2011)

Looks good smokin, what type of wood is that in the third picture?


zap


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## smokinj (Sep 7, 2011)

zapny said:
			
		

> Looks good smokin, what type of wood is that in the third picture?
> 
> 
> zap



Thank you, Thats the black walnut. 3/4 inch.


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## MasterMech (Sep 7, 2011)

I could sketch it for you but I warn you I'm not much of an artist.  It followed the basic "Chicken Tractor" concept  but instead of having the birds right down on the ground it held then about 6" off.  Not a prob in the hayfields we were using and there was little chance of injuring a bird during the move.


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## smokinj (Sep 7, 2011)

MasterMech said:
			
		

> I could sketch it for you but I warn you I'm not much of an artist.  It followed the basic "Chicken Tractor" concept  but instead of having the birds right down on the ground it held then about 6" off.  Not a prob in the hayfields we were using and there was little chance of injuring a bird during the move.




I seen some on the net, if you draw like me it would not be much help....lol


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## thewoodlands (Sep 7, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

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Here is a picture, not sure it will help.

zap


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## smokinj (Sep 7, 2011)

zapny said:
			
		

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That would be a lot easier...I am around 15 hours into this one and can see there at-least another 20 hours to go.  :bug: (And down 80.00 so far)


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## smokinj (Sep 7, 2011)

Here is a question on the lighting I have painted the inside of the coop to reflet THE light. Birds will be of laying age about mid Dec. The coop is 4x8x4 on the inside how much lighting is good?


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## Mrs. Krabappel (Sep 8, 2011)

I don't think it has to be much.  You are just extending the "daylight" for them a bit to trick their bodies into continuing to lay eggs.   

I don't use a chicken tractor.  I have just one acre and live in a neighborhood, and they stay in the yard no problem and then head to the coop at dusk.  The rooster helps with that.   They enjoy making their rounds.  They are more exposed to predators, but my losses have not been unreasonable.    I do have a pen I leave them in some of the time.


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## smokinj (Sep 8, 2011)

~*~Kathleen~*~ said:
			
		

> I don't think it has to be much.  You are just extending the "daylight" for them a bit to trick their bodies into continuing to lay eggs.
> 
> I don't use a chicken tractor.  I have just one acre and live in a neighborhood, and they stay in the yard no problem and then head to the coop at dusk.  The rooster helps with that.   They enjoy making their rounds.  They are more exposed to predators, but my losses have not been unreasonable.    I do have a pen I leave them in some of the time.



The issue with lighting is because they will be coming of age mid Dec. 3 big window's should do well but our Dec. is always dark and gloomy.


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## billb3 (Sep 8, 2011)

13/14 hours from what I've read.

We had a lamp timer set  for 5AM on and 6 or 7PM off.
with a photocell on a 40 or 60 watt bulb hanging  near the window. 


We used to trim  one wing so they couldn't fly straight over the top of their pen's fence (open top).
They would get to their roosts and egg   shelf OK.


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## smokinj (Sep 8, 2011)

billb3 said:
			
		

> 13/14 hours from what I've read.
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> We had a lamp timer set  for 5AM on and 6 or 7PM off.
> with a photocell on a 40 or 60 watt bulb hanging  near the window.
> ...



I think the timmer is perfect they will be 5 months old in Dec. and many days go by here with no sun light at all.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Sep 8, 2011)

I have florescent flood lights on timers.   They come on in the morning before sun up and are off for a few hours in the middle of the day and come back on before sunset and go back off latter in the evening.  The light doesn't have to be bright just there in some form for 14 hours or so.   Mine are in the 40 watt equivalent range and could likely be lower in wattage but that was what I had.


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## smokinj (Sep 8, 2011)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

> I have florescent flood lights on timers.   They come on in the morning before sun up and are off for a few hours in the middle of the day and come back on before sunset and go back off latter in the evening.  The light doesn't have to be bright just there in some form for 14 hours or so.   Mine are in the 40 watt equivalent range and could likely be lower in wattage but that was what I had.



Same boat here I have a double 2 footer not being use. I was hopping that was enough sounds like it is.


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## smokinj (Oct 6, 2011)

Ok, finally got this thing done. Covered run, lights and a passive ventilation system floor and ceiling insulated. Kinda my Owen thought on the ventilation gig. Now the chicks are 5 weeks old and putting on lots of weight. (17 out of 17 made it so far). Will post some pic's soon. Took 5x longer than I planed for. Coop 4x8 covered run 8x12. 65ft of roosting space.


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## timfromohio (Oct 6, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

> If you google search "chicken tractor" there are a million different ideas.  Just one thing to keep in mind- Light enough to move very easily but heavy enough to buck the wind.





jdc - whereabouts in NEOhio are you located?


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## JDC1 (Oct 7, 2011)

timfromohio said:
			
		

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Akron, we have a 
hobby farm on a golf course.  It is funny when the people from the development ask where the chickens in the tractor went.  My woodpile is about 35 yards from a green, I have to be careful not to get hit if the course is busy.


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## timfromohio (Oct 7, 2011)

Small world - we're also in Akron - west Akron, Bath Township.  Do you produce (eggs, broilers, etc.)  for the public or strictly for your own consumption?


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## Mmaul (Oct 7, 2011)

Awesome you guys are from Akron went to High school at ST. Vincent, St. Mary's, glad to see there are some people on the forum if I ever decide to move back. 

Jay If you need another 5 footer light let me know. I have an extra one.


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## smokinj (Oct 7, 2011)

MMaul said:
			
		

> Awesome you guys are from Akron went to High school at ST. Vincent, St. Mary's, glad to see there are some people on the forum if I ever decide to move back.
> 
> Jay If you need another 5 footer light let me know. I have an extra one.



One is an over kill but thats what I had. Should start getting eggs in Dec. Will take any wood shavings?


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## Mmaul (Oct 7, 2011)

Probably going to start, planing boards down next week should have plenty when that happens.


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## smokinj (Oct 7, 2011)

MMaul said:
			
		

> Probably going to start, planing boards down next week should have plenty when that happens.




I will take it! Unless its walnut, forgot cant use it.


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## JDC1 (Oct 7, 2011)

timfromohio said:
			
		

> Small world - we're also in Akron - west Akron, Bath Township.  Do you produce (eggs, broilers, etc.)  for the public or strictly for your own consumption?



I sold some  broilers this year to help offset the feed costs but I will never do a batch larger than 25 again.


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## smokinj (Oct 7, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

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Ok explain that please?....lol That is my next step and was thinking 70 birds.


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## JDC1 (Oct 7, 2011)

The cornish x broilers do nothing but poop and eat.  50 started to smell and I couldnt keep the tractor moved often enough to prevent it.  I would personally rather do two small batches than 1 large one.


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## timfromohio (Oct 7, 2011)

jdc - how many acres do you have?  do you think larger runs would help alleviate the problem?


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## smokinj (Oct 7, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

> The cornish x broilers do nothing but poop and eat.  50 started to smell and I couldnt keep the tractor moved often enough to prevent it.  I would personally rather do two small batches than 1 large one.



Thats what I will do....


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## JDC1 (Oct 7, 2011)

timfromohio said:
			
		

> jdc - how many acres do you have?  do you think larger runs would help alleviate the problem?



We have 5 acres.  They are in movable pens that get moved to fresh grass as many times a day as I feel is necessary.  I have done freedom rangers and cornish crosses and the rangers were definately easier/more pleasant to work with.  Over the course of the 4 weeks that the cornish x were outside we used a half an acre of pasture.  I am not an expert but you want to balance the amount of exercise the birds are getting so that they do not burn off all of the expensive feed and use it to grow.  That is where the pasture pen (tractor) comes in as it allows fresh forage/no cleanup but does not allow them to burn calories.


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## timfromohio (Oct 8, 2011)

Thanks - we have just under 2 acres and are considering trying a small batch of broilers next year.  We just got 8 laying hens this year.


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## JDC1 (Oct 8, 2011)

timfromohio said:
			
		

> Thanks - we have just under 2 acres and are considering trying a small batch of broilers next year.  We just got 8 laying hens this year.


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## smokinj (Oct 11, 2011)

Done for this season. Chicks are 6 weeks old.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 12, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> Done for this season. Chicks are 6 weeks old.



That chicken wire is absolutely useless as predator protection, it is good for exactly one thing keeping the chickens on one side of it.

The predators and pest section of BackYardChickens gets all kinda of sob stories about Ms. Prissy getting her head ripped off by a Raccoon trying to work Ms. Prissy through the fence.  That is followed by others telling Ms. Prissy's owner all about how useless chicken wire is, then others saying to start trapping and relocating/dispatching which is followed by the folks having a fit about whatever is done about removing the predator.


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## smokinj (Oct 12, 2011)

spellchecked_word">ss="spellchecked_word">SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

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Yea I gave that some thought. If the predator gets past the two wild @spellchecked_word">ss cats and the pit bull. Then they earn it.....Oh, I am also on the 2nd store 3 windows looking right at the coop. 22 is sighted at that distance. (with motion light set-up) If they get one they darn sure earn it! 4 week in the pen now and all is good. Have not seen any signs of life (game) out here for a couple years though. Neigbors also have 3 big dogs on a 4 aces invisible fence.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 12, 2011)

I use traps and firearms to go with everything else, when it comes to protecting my critters and garden I have no trouble at all using what's availible.

The only thing that would pose a large threat to my coops would be bears, however I think one of my neighbors who has bees is more apt to have a problem, so far I haven't run into any bear sign in my walks around.


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## smokinj (Oct 12, 2011)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

> I use traps and firearms to go with everything else, when it comes to protecting my critters and garden I have no trouble at all using what's availible.
> 
> The only thing that would pose a large threat to my coops would be bears, however I think one of my neighbors who has bees is more apt to have a problem, so far I haven't run into any bear sign in my walks around.



lol, Bears I better get a bigger gun. One other thing i thought of and try to keep in mind is, two different people free ranging there chicken's for year now. Both with in a mile. I think the dog and cat population in this area keeps things at bay. Dogs are all on there own property and the cats hold there area well.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 12, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

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A woman here in Standish took out a bear with a 22 this past summer.

'On May 22, in Standish, an elderly woman heard something outside and, walking out on her porch, a sow bluff charged, according to Game Warden Mike Pierre. "The woman returned to fire a warning shot from a .22 rifle and she accidentally shot the sow between the eyes," he said. The sow was immediately killed; there was "no suffering," he added.'


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## smokinj (Oct 12, 2011)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

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Then I have a chance! lol sure wouldn't want to hunt one with it, but 17 mag rounds may make me faster than him. Some days you get the bear and some days the bear get you!


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 12, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

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LOL,  I consider them to be under powered for a large animal even though with a well placed shot they can do the job.


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## thewoodlands (Oct 13, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

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Looks good smokin.


zap


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## smokinj (Oct 13, 2011)

zapny said:
			
		

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Lots of detail still need to be done....Trim work for example, but got enough time in it I have to walk away for a while. I darn sure know its not going anywhere. :cheese: Studs are 12 inch on center. 2x2's Cornrs 4x4


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## JDC1 (Oct 13, 2011)

Looks great.  We use straw bales to cut the wind for our goats.


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## smokinj (Oct 13, 2011)

JDC said:
			
		

> Looks great.  We use straw bales to cut the wind for our goats.



Thanks JDC,(For all your help and smokey) its was a lot more to all the details then i hope for. Still got a long ways to go, but I think they will be fine for the winter. Ventlation is set-up correct and no drafts after 4 tubes of calk and one can of foam. The chix's are doing very quickly. Next the Meat Chixs.


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## JDC1 (Oct 13, 2011)

Everything that we do turns into an extravaganza with all of the details.  My woodstove install is turning into a remodel at the moment complete with 8 new windows in new openings in the family room.


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## smokinj (Oct 13, 2011)

Yes it gets big! Its pouring out right now and all the chixs are still in the run. Guess the coverd run was worth the extra effort.


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