# Help me zero in on some tractor options



## rt014 (Jun 13, 2015)

I have 72 wooded acres on hilly (not rolling) terrain with logging roads and smaller trails connecting most of it. I harvest at least 20 full cords a year.  I currently have a Yamaha Rhino and wagon which have been my work horse to now, but think I need to 'step it up'.  I'm focused on a tractor with the lowest center of gravity I can find, that is also 'nimble' in the woods and has various attachments to do the following:

a) Skid trees
b) move cut wood
c) move boulders
d) road maintenance and drain outs
e) food plot maintenance
f) minor backhoe digger around the pond
g) snow removal

I think a tractor would give me the most flexibility.  Could you narrow a few brands and models to narrow my search?

Thanks


----------



## KenLockett (Jun 13, 2015)

rt014 said:


> I have 72 wooded acres on hilly (not rolling) terrain with logging roads and smaller trails connecting most of it. I harvest at least 20 full cords a year.  I currently have a Yamaha Rhino and wagon which have been my work horse to now, but think I need to 'step it up'.  I'm focused on a tractor with the lowest center of gravity I can find, that is also 'nimble' in the woods and has various attachments to do the following:
> 
> a) Skid trees
> b) move cut wood
> ...


I have the exact same need having used a 4x4 550 quad up to this point on my hilly approximately 20 acres plus 58 acre access in rear.  Will be interested in the responses.


----------



## peakbagger (Jun 13, 2015)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-Unimog...tr=true&hash=item2352813ecc&item=151708057292


----------



## TreePointer (Jun 14, 2015)

One tractor to do all that is going to be a compromise.  Everything except skidding in hilly wooded areas can be done with a large SCUT or smaller CUT; however, for most of those tasks, bigger is better.   Skidding in hills is the domain of dedicated log skidders; that's why they're so low to the ground.   With a tractor, you can use something like a Farmi winch (plus a snatch block or two) to get timber to logging roads and then skid it behind, or process it near the road and load it onto some type of trailer/truck bed.

I often advise folks to work backwards.  Figure out what implements you want to run and what size they need to be, and that will tell you what tractor fits you best.  For instance, if you need to run a 72" brush cutter or 72" rear PTO snow blower, you need a tractor with enough rear PTO horsepower to run them and enough counterweight in the tractor & front end to keep things safe.


----------



## rt014 (Jun 14, 2015)

TreePointer said:


> With a tractor, you can use something like a Farmi winch (plus a snatch block or two) to get timber to logging roads and then skid it behind, or process it near the road and load it onto some type of trailer/truck bed.



Most of the time we do winch, then cut near the road and truck out the rounds on a trailer.  The true 'skidding' would occur when there is a good layer of snow/ice and the ground is frozen....I try to spare my roads   Also, it's easier to do all the cutting in a header when there is a lot of snow on the ground.


----------



## Ashful (Jun 14, 2015)

TreePointer said:


> I often advise folks to work backwards.  Figure out what implements you want to run and what size they need to be, and that will tell you what tractor fits you best.  For instance, if you need to run a 72" brush cutter or 72" rear PTO snow blower, you need a tractor with enough rear PTO horsepower to run them and enough counterweight in the tractor & front end to keep things safe.


This.


----------



## DodgyNomad (Jun 15, 2015)

What's your budget, both max and ideal?   If money is no object, then your options go up exponentially.


----------



## rt014 (Jun 15, 2015)

DodgyNomad said:


> What's your budget, both max and ideal?   If money is no object, then your options go up exponentially.



I was guessing somewhere in the $20-30k range...but I'm flexible upward....but on the other hand I can't pursue things with a money's no object attitude.


----------



## Fiziksgeek (Jun 15, 2015)

That's a lotta land, and a decent task list. I wouldn't look at anything smaller than the mid size Kubota L series or Massey Ferguson 1700E series.  I'd even look at a small Kubota M series or one of the larger Massey Ferguson 1700 series. 

As said, the size of your desired attachments will help you determine how much HP you will, and that will in turn will help narrow down your choices. A backhoe adds quite a bit of cost if its really necessary.


----------



## rt014 (Jun 15, 2015)

Fiziksgeek said:


> That's a lotta land, and a decent task list. I wouldn't look at anything smaller than the mid size Kubota L series or Massey Ferguson 1700E series.  I'd even look at a small Kubota M series or one of the larger Massey Ferguson 1700 series.
> 
> As said, the size of your desired attachments will help you determine how much HP you will, and that will in turn will help narrow down your choices. A backhoe adds quite a bit of cost if its really necessary.



Thanks...exactly what I was looking for...at least some point in the general direction of brands/lines/models.  As far as the back hoe, it is probably the lowest priority attachment for me, but would be nice to have.


----------



## Ashful (Jun 15, 2015)

rt014 said:


> I was guessing somewhere in the $20-30k range...but I'm flexible upward....but on the other hand I can't pursue things with a money's no object attitude.


Given the HP class you'll be shopping for that task list, and backhoe on the wish list, you'll be shopping used.


----------



## TreePointer (Jun 15, 2015)

Hills and/or snow removal means 4WD is a must.

Confirm the max load ratings on the tractor's FEL.  There is more than one max load rating per FEL--at the pivot, and a distances from the pivot.  It seems counterintuitive, but tractors typically can lift much less than a much smaller forklift or skidsteer.

Minimum CAT1 3-point hitch.  Confirm max load rating.

Shoot for a minimum 35 hp at the rear PTO.  (Again, the implements you need to run will tell you how much PTO hp you need.)

If any of the implements run off the tractor hydraulics (instead of, say, a PTO pump), confirm the hydraulic flow rate (gpm).  Some implements have a minimum gpm rating.

Ag tires (R1) usually work best with ground engaging equipment (plows, etc.).  R4 tires can be a nice compromise if you need a less aggressive bite on your lawn.  Remember to consider how wide the wheels track for getting around on your trails and in the woods.


----------



## Ashful (Jun 15, 2015)

I went round and round on choosing tires, as I try to keep my lawn nice, and more than half of my tractor usage is on my lawn.  After much reading and talking with folks, I went with turf tires and 2-link tire chains for all four wheels.  The turf tires work better than R1's or R4's on turf and pavement, falling short in mud or deep snow (eg. driving on the lawn in snow).  For those occasions, I just don my 2-link chains on either front or all fours, which is typically only once or twice each year.  Two or three years in, I'm happy with that choice.


----------



## EJP1234 (Jun 16, 2015)

rt014 said:


> I was guessing somewhere in the $20-30k range...but I'm flexible upward....but on the other hand I can't pursue things with a money's no object attitude.


Just an FYI, I just bought a 30hp kioti, with a brush hog, tiller, landscape rake, and backhoe w/ a hydro thumb and I was a bit over $30k delivered.

The backhoe's are typically $7-8k in that size range, and the thumbs are extra... I went with a hydro thumb, might as well as a mechanical set in place by a bolt would be a PIA...

When shopping, and if a backhoe is a must, look into how easily they attach.. I wrote of kubota because of that... I would have to take the 3pt linkage off each and every time.. probably not a big deal to some, but I come home from the office and want to go rip up a stump here or there when making food plots, but also want to hook up the brush hog or other implement just as much.. it seemed like it would be a major pain in the rear to constantly take that off and on.


----------



## semipro (Jun 16, 2015)

I have a 32 HP, 4WD, with FEL and hydrostatic transmission. (blade, rake, chipper, hitch, PHD)  I use R4s with chains year round.
I've operated quite a few tractors and various other heavy equipment.  One thing I've found I really like for hilly terrain and FEL operation is the hydrostatic trans.  I now wouldn't have a tractor without it.


----------



## TreePointer (Jun 16, 2015)

semipro said:


> One thing I've found I really like for hilly terrain and FEL operation is the hydrostatic trans.  I now wouldn't have a tractor without it.



+1


----------



## Ashful (Jun 16, 2015)

semipro said:


> One thing I've found I really like for hilly terrain and FEL operation is the hydrostatic trans.  I now wouldn't have a tractor without it.


+2.  All my vehicles are manual gearbox, but all my tractors are hydro.  Can't even imagine how I used to plow with a manual gearbox on my old Wheel Horse.


----------



## jeffesonm (Jun 16, 2015)

I would say you want a Kubota L series, Deere 3x20 series, or the equivalent Kioti/LS/Branson/etc.  Not as familiar with the other brands but I would stick with orange or green if for no other reason than resale.  In the past three years I've gone through three tractors... bought used and each time I was able to get about what I paid.  The first, a JD 4500 was fantastic but a little too big for my dense woods and I wanted to try a hydro drive.  Kubota B3030 was the right size, but I just didn't like it as much as the JD.  Sold that and bought a JD 4310 which I love.  I miss the gear drive sometimes but overall I think the hydro is just more functional.  I would also encourage you to get the tires filled if you plan to use it on hills.... really helps with stability.  Most important I would say get out there and check out / sit on / drive / use a bunch of different machines and see which one you like the best.


----------



## jeffesonm (Jun 16, 2015)

Buying used can save you quite a few bucks, and after the initial drive-it-off-the-lot depreciation, these things hold their value really well.  I would not hesitate to buy a used machine as long as it was well cared for.  When buying machines I look for single owner machines with low hours that just did stuff around their house.  Also a lot of dealers offer 0% financing on new machines so consider that option too.

More power can drive bigger implements but how important is a 7' mower vs a 6' mower vs a 5' mower?  I always lose traction before straining the motor and that's with R1 tires, wheel weights, 400 lbs on the 3 pt and whatever load I'm carrying.  If you are going to be doing more in the woods and on hills and less in the fields, I would be more concerned with a smaller, maneuverable machine than a bigger more powerful one.  I also prefer the 5' bucket to the 6' bucket I had before... sure you can carry less dirt/mulch/stone/etc, but I do that far less often than backing up/turning around in a tight space, where the smaller bucket really helps.  Are you skidding logs for the mill or to cut up for firewood?  I made a little log sled, load up 8-12 foot logs and then drag them all back to wherever they need to go.


----------



## EJP1234 (Jun 17, 2015)

But he wants a backhoe, and the JD 3 series doesn't take one... not too mention the aluminum crank case...


----------



## jeffesonm (Jun 17, 2015)

I believe the 47, 48, 447, 448, 375 and 485 backhoes can all go on a 3320/3520/3720.

I have less acreage than OP but similar needs for a tractor, and lots of hills.  I did not get a backhoe with my machine because they run around $5,000 extra, and I wasn't sure I really needed it.  In the past three years there have probably been one or two times I really wish I had one, but otherwise I don't miss it.  If I ever have a serious digging project I will rent the appropriate machine... ditch witch for trench or mini excavator for something like a foundation.  I figured I could get quite a few rentals before I reached $5,000 and mini excavator especially is better for plain digging.  Now my buddy has a backhoe on his Kubota and says he wouldn't want to be without it, so your needs might be different than mine.

The one thing I absolutely love and is almost always attached to my tractor is my 3 point pallet forks.  With this latest machine I have a set of quick attach forks for the loader, but unless you need to lift something high, the rear forks on the 3 point are much better.  They are way more stable right back by the rear tires than with the load hanging out a few feet past the nose of your machine.  I keep all sorts of stuff on pallets... firewood, building materials, equipment, etc and move it around wherever it needs to go.


----------



## blades (Jun 17, 2015)

Not even so much as what the bucket can lift as what the front axle can really support.  Tractors are made for pulling so all their strength is in the back side. 
Back hoes are really hard on the 3 point only mount- a good one would be a frame mount that reaches about 1/2 to 2/3 towards the front . So they are going to be model series specific.


----------



## rt014 (Jun 18, 2015)

jeffesonm said:


> Are you skidding logs for the mill or to cut up for firewood?  I made a little log sled, load up 8-12 foot logs and then drag them all back to wherever they need to go.



Primary use is for skidding firewood out, but at some point I may decide to do some amateur logging on some of my nicer trees and save the cost/cut of a logger doing it.  One idea someone else gave me that got me to thinking is a used E series Cat bulldozer that had a big winch on it.  Think it would be a breeze keeping my trails open in the winter with something like that.  Still not convinced though. I'd be giving up some flexibility and ground speed with it though.


----------



## rt014 (Jun 18, 2015)

jeffesonm said:


> I would also encourage you to get the tires filled if you plan to use it on hills.... really helps with stability.  .



I think I finally understand what it means to 'fill' the tires...meaning you make them solid right?  That makes sense.  What do they fill them with?  Also does it make sense for my application to have larger front tires?  Some tractors seem to have really small tires up front usually.


----------



## Ashful (Jun 18, 2015)

"filling" the tires refers to usually filling them with a liquid that won't freeze in your clime.  Traditional is Calcium Chloride, which is very dense (heavy), and won't freeze.  Trouble is, it rots your rims.  There are now specialty products on the market that do the same, without being corrosive, but they're not as inexpensive.  Others use window washer fluid, or other similar antifreeze alternatives, but they're usually not very dense.

There are charts dictating how much fluid to put in a given tire size, because you do NOT want the tires 'solid', lest you break things.  There needs to be a certain balance of air in the tire.


----------



## jeffesonm (Jun 21, 2015)

rt014 said:


> Primary use is for skidding firewood out, but at some point I may decide to do some amateur logging on some of my nicer trees and save the cost/cut of a logger doing it.  One idea someone else gave me that got me to thinking is a used E series Cat bulldozer that had a big winch on it.  Think it would be a breeze keeping my trails open in the winter with something like that.  Still not convinced though. I'd be giving up some flexibility and ground speed with it though.


My first tractor was a mini bull dozer of sorts... an Oliver OC-46:







Actually I had two... one with a blade and the other with a bucket.  (Compared to the price of the John Deere, I could have 6!)  They were awesome on the hills because you would never lose traction and the super low center of gravity made them super stable.  Fantastic machines for dragging logs or making trails, and just plain old fun to drive around.  But in terms of overall utility, there's just no comparison to a compact tractor.  No 3 point hitch for attachments and don't even think of taking it on your lawn or driveway.

I would forget about the amateur logging for now and just focus on the other stuff.  I think you will make too many compromises trying to get one machine that does it all.  Any decent size compact tractor will admirably accomplish tasks b) through g).  If you end up wanting to do some logging you could rent a small dozer (or maybe even a skidder?) for a day/week.


----------



## TreePointer (Jun 21, 2015)

jeffesonm said:


> ...But in terms of overall utility, there's just no comparison to a compact tractor.  No 3 point hitch for attachments and don't even think of taking it on your lawn or driveway.
> 
> I would forget about the amateur logging for now and just focus on the other stuff.  I think you will make too many compromises trying to get one machine that does it all.  Any decent size compact tractor will admirably accomplish tasks b) through g).  If you end up wanting to do some logging you could rent a small dozer (or maybe even a skidder?) for a day/week.



Excellent advice.  There things I need to do and things I'd like to do around the farm.  Addressing first the needs leads to happiness.


----------



## jebatty (Jun 24, 2015)

My woodlands total about 180 acres, plus wetlands. In 2004 I bought a Kubota L3400 (34 hp, 4WD, R4 industrial tires), manual transmission, along with a FEL, grapple bucket, pallet forks, box blade, dirt bucket, extra hydraulic spool, and PTO brush mower. I also then added a well used disc and a very old green 2 bottom plow. Importantly, I got a quick-tach for the front end loader that enables easy use of most skid steer equipment. And for the 3 point I made a rack that holds a barrel filled with cement for a counterweight when using front end equipment. About 300 hours on it now. Very pleased with the choice.

Pluses:
- narrow width, easy to work through the woods
- plenty of power, very smooth, light on the fuel
- only fluid changes, no repairs required

Minuses:
- narrow width, need to be very careful to prevent tipping, especially with front end equipment or on slopes
- front load capacity includes the FEL attachment, not just the load
- hydraulic pump wont handle high volume accessories
- a counterweight is nearly essential to allow most front end loader work

Comments:
a) Skid trees - I avoid as much as possible, bark fills with dirt, not good for the chainsaw or sawmill. Also, very easy to tip the tractor. I do use a lifting tongs and a skidding tongs on occasion. Slopes are very tricky and dangerous.
b) move cut wood - lifts and moves almost all logs, 8 - 12' in length. The pallet forks get used more than any other implement, usually can lift several logs at a time.
c) move boulders - these are heavier than might be expected, can easily exceed lift capacity
d) road maintenance and drain outs - box blade and bucket work well
e) food plot maintenance - plow and disc work here
f) minor backhoe digger around the pond - considered but don't have
g) snow removal - don't use for this, traction on ice/snow is limited


----------



## bpirger (Jun 25, 2015)

I would recommend a 3PT winch if you want to do logging/firewood work.  I have a Wallenstein on my Zetor 5245.   While there is still a good deal of walking back and forth as a log snags on something as I skid it toward the logging road, I can then skid an entire load (always at least one tree, sometimes two) to the wood shed where I buck it, split, and stack.  No more bucking in the woods, hauling to the logging road, hauling in the trailer, etc.  As stated above though, this does mean the logs will pick up dirt and chain sharpening has to become a decent skill.   But being able to skid things from over 150' from a logging road in the woods, not to mention to very easily be able to pull down snags when they get hung up in another tree, is very useful.


----------



## rt014 (Jun 26, 2015)

bpirger said:


> I would recommend a 3PT winch if you want to do logging/firewood work.



Yep, a winch is a given.  I have one on my Rhino and we use it quite a bit to drag trees out to where we can then hook a choker on them or cut them up where they lie.


----------



## flyingcow (Jun 27, 2015)

My 2 cents. 

Going to use it in the woods? No cab, just a roll bar with lap belt.You will beat the snot out of a cab in the woods. And you will catch the roll bar on a few limbs, but it's a must with a tractor in the woods. as pointed, these can be pretty tippy at times. 

Snow removal? Snowblower? front or rear mount? Front mounted units need a mid mount pto, usually. 

Or just a plow? 

A winter cab is nice. heater is a plus, but not needed. You're already dressed for winter, but a cab that will keep the snow off you is a plus.  A snowblower will throw a tremendous amount of snow in your lap, and down your neck.

back hoe? I got a great deal on my tractor. BH was on the tractor when I bought it. Fun to play with. Dug a few holes. After that? Didn't use it. Sold it for $6500.00 Once in a blue moon if i need BH work. Call a local guy, That $6500 will go a long ways for me. 

Rimgaurd for loaded tires. IMO Either go with R-1's or industrial tires. Since you're going in the woods, I'd probably lean towards industrials. They should be a heavier ply tire. Also, have the valve stems protected. Brush will rip out a stem pretty easily. 

Also, I agree that pallet forks are very nice to have. You'll use them more than you realize. 

I had some extra money a couple of years ago. Bought a nice FEL mounted root grapple. A little extravagant but they're some handy when handling brush/logs/etc. But you can get an attachment that will mount on top of a bucket or pallet forks that clamp down on the material you're handling. That being said, if I'm not careful the root grapple will beat the crap out of you and the tractor if not careful. 

Size of tractor. As someone pointed out. Figure out how wide you want your implements.


----------



## semipro (Jun 27, 2015)

flyingcow said:


> Bought a nice FEL mounted root grapple. A little extravagant but they're some handy when handling brush/logs/etc. But you can get an attachment that will mount on top of a bucket or pallet forks that clamp down on the material you're handling.


I used to see this as an extravagance too but am starting to think it might get more use than my other implements if I had one. I spend way too much time dealing with brush piles manually or making a mess trying to move them with the FEL.


----------



## flyingcow (Jun 27, 2015)

semipro said:


> I used to see this as an extravagance too but am starting to think it might get more use than my other implements if I had one. I spend way too much time dealing with brush piles manually or making a mess trying to move them with the FEL.




Another recommendation. Put a 3rd function on FEL. That will be there when you hook up the grapple or add on "thumb" to bucket or forks.


----------



## HybridFyre (Jun 27, 2015)

All these lengthy posts about people's tractors...with no pictures!!


----------



## TreePointer (Jun 28, 2015)

HybridFyre said:


> All these lengthy posts about people's tractors...with no pictures!!



I don't have many good pics of the CUT, but here are a couple I uploaded a while back.  I'll try to get some with implements over the next few months.

1999 JD 4600 CUT, 460 FEL, 6' bucket, ~3450 lbs w/o FEL, 4 cylinder 43 hp Yanmar diesel, 35 hp Rear PTO.  (Always stored inside a barn with concrete floor.  That's why the paint still looks good.)


----------



## Ashful (Jun 28, 2015)

Not as nice as TreePonter's, but here's my machine.


----------



## flyingcow (Jun 28, 2015)




----------



## 711mhw (Jun 28, 2015)

Dealer support & reputation (and location) should be a big part of your decision. I'm partial to Kubota, they make the whole tractor and seem to demand a high level of dealer service, inventory & training while remaining competitive in their pricing.
Here's my wannabe skidder,


----------



## rt014 (Jun 30, 2015)

711mhw said:


> Dealer support & reputation (and location) should be a big part of your decision. I'm partial to Kubota, they make the whole tractor and seem to demand a high level of dealer service, inventory & training while remaining competitive in their pricing.
> Here's my wannabe skidder,



That looks like a kickass machine.  Can you tell me more about it, approximate cost, what the attachments are and whether they were standard Kubota attachments?

Thanks


----------



## 711mhw (Jul 1, 2015)

rt014 said:


> That looks like a kickass machine.  Can you tell me more about it, approximate cost, what the attachments are and whether they were standard Kubota attachments?
> 
> Thanks



Well, I had the root rake (grapple), it also go's on my skidsteer. The log winch on the back I built along  with the canopy and the limb "sweeps", front grill guard and the plow (frame) mount. There's a full "belly pan" from the front to the back made out of 1/4" plate to keep the essential oil's on the inside.
I found that plow for $600 last fall and didn't want it on the loader arms and I needed the loader's hyd circuits to operate the plow anyway. 
My brother says I'm pimpin out my tractor, I just like to make stuff out of a pile of metal. The tractor is the only Kubota "part" to get to your question. Like I said, it's my wannabe skidder.


----------



## semipro (Jul 1, 2015)

That is a sweet rig!


----------



## simple.serf (Jul 4, 2015)

I'm a Massey guy. I grew up with Deere, but they think their parts are made of gold. I also have found that I prefer gas engines, as I can buy a worn out gas unit for 1/8 of the price of a diesel, and only the engine will be worn out, not the whole machine. We run a small vegetable and poultry farm as a side business, and we use our equipment every day. We saved alot of money by buying the  stuff that nobody wanted and setting it up for our needs.


----------



## flyingcow (Jul 6, 2015)

simple.serf said:


> I'm a Massey guy. I grew up with Deere, but they think their parts are made of gold. I also have found that I prefer gas engines, as I can buy a worn out gas unit for 1/8 of the price of a diesel, and only the engine will be worn out, not the whole machine. We run a small vegetable and poultry farm as a side business, and we use our equipment every day. We saved alot of money by buying the  stuff that nobody wanted and setting it up for our needs.



That's a smart way to do it. Plus diesel is higher priced than gas now. And a gas job is cheaper to service. As long as you do regular oil changes, clean air filters and have good cooling gas jobs will last a long time.


----------



## Ashful (Jul 6, 2015)

flyingcow said:


> That's a smart way to do it. Plus diesel is higher priced than gas now. And a gas job is cheaper to service. As long as you do regular oil changes, clean air filters and have good cooling gas jobs will last a long time.


Maybe not enough to justify the expense (haven't done the math), but I can say my diesel tractor uses far less gas than my gas tractor ever did, and the diesel is a much larger machine.  I'm constantly amazed at how long I go, and how much I do, on a single tank of diesel.  It's more than just the ratio of potential energy per gallon of diesel vs. gas, as I'm seeing a usage differential of maybe 5:1 or more, and suspect it has to do with the fact that I must throttle up on the gas machine to do what the diesel accomplishes just barely off idle RPM.


----------



## 711mhw (Jul 6, 2015)

And for the fuel costs, (diesel) unless you have a very new tractor, it'll run just fine on heating oil.


----------



## Ashful (Jul 6, 2015)

711mhw said:


> And for the fuel costs, (diesel) unless you have a very new tractor, it'll run just fine on heating oil.


Do you need to worry about heating oil gelling at cold temperatures?  The paraffin content of diesel is varied throughout the year to minimize this problem, but I don't think they do the same with heating oil.


----------



## Bspring (Jul 7, 2015)

I think you got a lot of good advice here. It will be really hard to know exactly what you want until you get something and have a chance to see how it works for your situation. The best you can do is ask lots of questions like you are doing.


----------



## jeffesonm (Jul 7, 2015)

It took me three tractors to find the right one.  Be patient and get yourself a good deal on used one... if you don't like it, you should be able to sell it a year later for about the same.


----------



## simple.serf (Jul 7, 2015)

Ashful said:


> Do you need to worry about heating oil gelling at cold temperatures?  The paraffin content of diesel is varied throughout the year to minimize this problem, but I don't think they do the same with heating oil.


 If it isn't gelling in my oil tank for the boiler, which is outdoors, it won't gel in the tractor. Currently, my only running diesel is an Onan DJB (or is it a JE?) on my MEP 002a that I use as a backup generator. I run heating oil in it and haven't had any issues, though I do add the same percentage of anti gel to it as I do to my fuel oil tank.  As to gas vs diesel,  yeah, don't buy a gas burner with a working fuel guage, especially if you plan to run a haybine all day.


----------



## 711mhw (Jul 7, 2015)

Ashful said:


> Do you need to worry about heating oil gelling at cold temperatures?  The paraffin content of diesel is varied throughout the year to minimize this problem, but I don't think they do the same with heating oil.


You can add a gal. of treatment to your (storage) tank for good measure, usually a good idea in the winter.


----------



## rt014 (Jul 12, 2015)

jebatty said:


> My woodlands total about 180 acres, plus wetlands. In 2004 I bought a Kubota L3400 (34 hp, 4WD, R4 industrial tires), manual transmission, along with a FEL, grapple bucket, pallet forks, box blade, dirt bucket, extra hydraulic spool, and PTO brush mower. I also then added a well used disc and a very old green 2 bottom plow. Importantly, I got a quick-tach for the front end loader that enables easy use of most skid steer equipment. And for the 3 point I made a rack that holds a barrel filled with cement for a counterweight when using front end equipment. About 300 hours on it now. Very pleased with the choice.



Can I ask approximately how much you invested for everything above?

I went looking at New Holland's yesterday.  Liked the Boomer 37.  I might be getting closer and closer to having a new toy.


----------



## Ash (Jul 18, 2015)

I have a yanmar ex3200 and love it. With 32hp and 4wd it's amazing what it can do. All my attachments are 60".


----------



## BlackGreyhounds (Jul 18, 2015)

I have similar needs to yours, though less acres and all woods no pasture/food plot.  I've been looking very hard.  My budget is less than yours.  Here's a couple of things I'm thinking about.
1) Don't try to put a backhoe on a CUT if it's for only rare use.  It's much better to just rent.  You know you will have whatever power the job requires and will be cheaper.
2)  R4's tend to be more puncture resistant (better for industrial or "in the woods" use) vs. Ag's are better for "ground engaging" implements, more for pasture/field work.
3)  Do you need a mid-PTO, belly mower?  If not, it will just get in the way in the woods.
4)  Looking very hard at the used market, since I'm fortunate not to be in a rush.

Based on these observations, I'm strongly considering the JD3802E with D160 FEL and R4 tires (filled).  Right now I've got a firm quote from a dealer at $19,500.  I took a look at the JD 3R's, but honestly, Idon't need a mid PTO.  I also looked at Kubota B and L's and have used my friend's Kubota B.  In the end, these are more expensive than the JD 3E and the controls are much less user friendly (dry clutch rear PTO).


----------



## BlackGreyhounds (Jul 18, 2015)

That said, I'm no expert, so I will also be interested in the input from more experienced member.


----------



## ccmac (Jul 18, 2015)

Kubota would be my choice. Reasons mentioned already but worth repeating......they make the whole tractor. The engine and tranny were designed by the same company designing the tractor. Things work right and the build quality is high. 6 yrs using my Kubota L3130 and not one failure. And I admittedly have at times abused the thing but it just keeps plugging away.


----------

