# cost of stihl chain oil is $19.20



## golfandwoodnut (Aug 14, 2012)

I was at my local Stihl Dealer and bought a gallon of chain oil and it was $19.20, I think that is crazy.  Bad enough I checked the last bottle I bought about a year of so ago and it was $13.  I notice Husqvarna oil is only $12, which still sounds high but a lot less.  On occassion I use recycled oil that I filter with coffee filters.  I prefer to use the good stuff but the cost does seem to be unreasonable.  I cut a lot and probably go through a couple of gallons a year.


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## ScotO (Aug 14, 2012)

When we are really busy, I go through almost a gallon per weekend, sometimes.  I found it at TSC for around 11-ish per gallon, and there was an "Itasca" brand oil at a local, family-owned surplus store for 13 and change per gallon.  Works just as good as the Stihl stuff, half the price.  Winter time I mix 30 weight oil with it, and that saves even more money.......


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## MarkinNC (Aug 14, 2012)

I think I am bit on the finicky side when it come to oil.  I use fuel synthetic in my truck.  I use Stihl full synthetic premix for my fuel in my saws.  I buy generic bar oil on sale from Tractor Supply or Northern Tool..


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## StihlHead (Aug 14, 2012)

Stihl oil is always high, bar or premix. I never use either unless I find it at a garage sale fo cheap. I use a local brand specifically made for bar oil with tackifier in it. Or Poulan or Husky of they are on sale at the local Farm and Tractor Supply places.

Never use used crancase oil in a chainsaw! That stuff is full of blowby crap and it is highly toxic, and is also has tiny metal fragments in it. Also it lacks a tackifier in it to keep the oil on your bar. Never never never use that stuff, filtered or otherwise, or you will prematurely run your chains to death and leave a lot of toxic crap out there in the woods.... gives loggers a bad name... not good for the environment... bad for you and your saw... and all that.

Use bar oil, intended or chainsaws. If you really wanna go green, use canola oil with a tackifier in it. That has the least impact, and your saw will not suffer.


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## Researcher1 (Aug 14, 2012)

What dealer did you go to.  I think I paid $14 for a gallon in february.


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## StihlHead (Aug 14, 2012)

Oil (and gas) prices have climbed sharply since February...


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## thewoodlands (Aug 14, 2012)

golfandwoodnut said:


> I was at my local Stihl Dealer and bought a gallon of chain oil and it was $19.20, I think that is crazy. Bad enough I checked the last bottle I bought about a year of so ago and it was $13. I notice Husqvarna oil is only $12, which still sounds high but a lot less. On occassion I use recycled oil that I filter with coffee filters. I prefer to use the good stuff but the cost does seem to be unreasonable. I cut a lot and probably go through a couple of gallons a year.


Try some Canola Oil, works for me. I think Smokin still runs his saws with it.

zap


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## jeff_t (Aug 14, 2012)

Just saw a TSC ad today, $7. It is 30w, which I have never seen there before. I'll have to stock up for winter.


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## Thistle (Aug 14, 2012)

zap said:


> Try some Canola Oil, works for me. I think Smokin still runs his saws with it.
> 
> zap


 

Yup its good stuff.Store-brand at Wal Mart is around $7.50 now for a gallon jug if I remember.Was less than $6 just a few months ago.


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## golfandwoodnut (Aug 14, 2012)

Thistle said:


> Yup its good stuff.Store-brand at Wal Mart is around $7.50 now for a gallon jug if I remember.Was less than $6 just a few months ago.


When you buy canola oil I hear you do not want to leave that stuff in the tank as it can go rancid, or is this oil specifically for chainsaws? I always have oil left in the tank when the gas runs out, they design them that way. I would hate to have to dump the remaining oil when I am not sure the next time I am using the saw since I have several to choose from.


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## thewoodlands (Aug 14, 2012)

gawn, I leave it in my saws, so far everything is good. I've been running canola oil in the saws just over one year.

zap


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## golfandwoodnut (Aug 14, 2012)

Scotty Overkill said:


> When we are really busy, I go through almost a gallon per weekend, sometimes. I found it at TSC for around 11-ish per gallon, and there was an "Itasca" brand oil at a local, family-owned surplus store for 13 and change per gallon. Works just as good as the Stihl stuff, half the price. Winter time I mix 30 weight oil with it, and that saves even more money.......


 Scotty, when I am milling I go through gas and oil at a fast clip.  The 660 is very thirsty when you leave the throttle open.and you need extra oil on the tip of the bar.  I go through a tank of gas and oil about once every board and a 1/2.


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## HittinSteel (Aug 14, 2012)

Stihl has built a great marketing name....people will pay whatever they ask because they think it is better.

I use the TSC stuff in the summer and some thinner crap called "Bar and chain oil" in the winter. Never had a bar oil related problem.....ever.


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## Thistle (Aug 14, 2012)

If I know I wont be using either of my 2 biggest saws for more than 4 weeks (which is rare lately) I'd dump the oil back in the jug.The wee Echo only gets used a few times a year,might be 2-3 months between uses for it.I drain all fluids in that then refill the same day it gets used again.

I especially like the canola oil in cold temps,flows easier from the jug.Once the overnight temps drop below 35,I keep the oil jug in semi heated garage/shop instead of cold shed 50 ft from the house..That helps too.


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## golfandwoodnut (Aug 14, 2012)

zap said:


> gawn, I leave it in my saws, so far everything is good. I've been running canola oil in the saws just over one year.
> 
> zap


 Interesting zap, I was reading in one of the other threads that somebody said they would never use it again because it went rancid.  I think I will try it, especially when I am milling and going through it like crazy.  It is ashame you should not use used motor oil since it gives you a way to recycle some oil.


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## thewoodlands (Aug 14, 2012)

golfandwoodnut said:


> Interesting zap, I was reading in one of the other threads that somebody said they would never use it again because it went rancid. I think I will try it, especially when I am milling and going through it like crazy. It is ashame you should not use used motor oil since it gives you a way to recycle some oil.


Here is a good read.
http://www.fs.fed.us/eng/pubs/html/98511316/98511316.html
zap


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## jeff_t (Aug 14, 2012)

I remember reading that canola can act as a binder and cake up with the sawdust if you don't use the saw for a while and aren't diligent about cleaning. Any thoughts?

I've been wanting to try it, purely from an environmental standpoint. I cringe every time I cut near water and see the rainbow on the surface. Don't know if it is any better for the environment, but I would like to think that.


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## thewoodlands (Aug 14, 2012)

golfandwoodnut said:


> Interesting zap, I was reading in one of the other threads that somebody said they would never use it again because it went rancid. I think I will try it, especially when I am milling and going through it like crazy. It is ashame you should not use used motor oil since it gives you a way to recycle some oil.


Last winter I had gallon of canola oil and a gallon of veggie oil in the garage (not heated) it was about 10 degrees outside, the veggie oil thicken right up, the canola oil never thickened up...I took the canola oil then went back in for the day to do some cutting.

zap


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## thewoodlands (Aug 14, 2012)

jeff_t said:


> I remember reading that canola can act as a binder and cake up with the sawdust if you don't use the saw for a while and aren't diligent about cleaning. Any thoughts?
> 
> I've been wanting to try it, purely from an environmental standpoint. I cringe every time I cut near water and see the rainbow on the surface. Don't know if it is any better for the environment, but I would like to think that.


 
Grab a small bottle just to try, smokin had me use it when I was milling at first. I never had a problem yet with it, I've been running Wesson Canola Oil in all the saws.

zap


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## MrWhoopee (Aug 14, 2012)

I buy the good stuff for my gas mix, must be ISO-L-EGD and JASO-FD.  I buy bar oil at Wal-mart or whoever's cheapest. Bar oil doesn't need to last millions of cycles or withstand high temps. One pass thru and that's it. As long as it sticks and lubes, it's good.


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## jeff_t (Aug 14, 2012)

zap said:


> Grab a small bottle just to try, smokin had me use it when I was milling at first. I never had a problem yet with it, I've been running Wesson Canola Oil in all the saws.
> 
> zap



I will at some point. Did you have to adjust your oiler at all?


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## thewoodlands (Aug 14, 2012)

jeff_t said:


> I will at some point. Did you have to adjust your oiler at all?


When I mill the oiler is on max, when cutting firewood I'll turn it down.

zap


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## MasterMech (Aug 15, 2012)

StihlHead said:


> Never use used crancase oil in a chainsaw! That stuff is full of blowby crap and it is highly toxic, and is also has tiny metal fragments in it. Also it lacks a tackifier in it to keep the oil on your bar. Never never never use that stuff, filtered or otherwise, or you will prematurely run your chains to death and leave a lot of toxic crap out there in the woods.... gives loggers a bad name... not good for the environment... bad for you and your saw... and all that.


 
Not to mention it makes the saw look like sh*t!  Not hard to pick out what saws get used oil run through 'em.



golfandwoodnut said:


> .. It is ashame you should not use used motor oil since it gives you a way to recycle some oil.


 
It's less like recycling and more like dumping a quart of used engine oil out in the woods.   Sombody once argued with me that it was ok because it was so spread out that it wouldn't affect anything.


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## StihlHead (Aug 15, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Not to mention it makes the saw look like sh*t! Not hard to pick out what saws get used oil run through 'em.


 
Looks and also smells like shyte, and takes a while to clean it all out. I bought an 026 once that the guy had run used crankcase oil in. That was a mistake I will not make again. The bar and chain were shot. I cleaned it up, modified the engine with a light port job, put a newer bar and chain on it and flipped it. 



MasterMech said:


> It's less like recycling and more like dumping a quart of used engine oil out in the woods. Sombody once argued with me that it was ok because it was so spread out that it wouldn't affect anything.


 
Yah, that is not recycling. That is toxic waste dumping. Seriously, used crankcase oil is bad stuff. It washes into the rivers and makes things a lot worse. People, please take used crankcase oil to the recycle centers so that it can be recycled properly (metals removed, blowby carbon removed, gasoline removed). It is bad enough with clean new bar oil. I have seen lots of sudsing in lots of rivers downstream from logging operations, as well as oil slick rainbow reflections on top of the water. Add blowby and heavy metals and that is not good at all. My father had a passion for reusing crankcase 'drippings' as he called them. He dumped it on his driveway and filtered it and used it for lubrication. I think it is one of the reasons he died at an early age from cancer. Seriously... not good stuff. If you are chainsaw milling you are loading up a small area with bar oil that you have to live in. Better to use canola oil in those situations.


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## Jack Straw (Aug 15, 2012)

Thanks for the great info...is the cheap bar oil really as good as Stihl's ?The Tractor Supply brand seems so thick compared to Stihl's. If TSC's is just as good, I could save a lot of $ this fall!


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## DMZX (Aug 15, 2012)

Jack Straw said:


> Thanks for the great info...is the cheap bar oil really as good as Stihl's ?The Tractor Supply brand seems so thick compared to Stihl's. If TSC's is just as good, I could save a lot of $ this fall!


I have been using Poulan bar oil, which goes for  $10/gallon at my local discount store.  After using 4 gallons of it I find it to be a great bar oil at a good price.


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## ikessky (Aug 15, 2012)

I stop at my FIL's shop and take bar oil from his 55 gallon drum.  He hollered at me the first time I bought a gallon of bar oil and told me I can take it from his bulk tank for free.


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## MasterMech (Aug 15, 2012)

ikessky said:


> I stop at my FIL's shop and take bar oil from his 55 gallon drum. He hollered at me the first time I bought a gallon of bar oil and told me I can take it from his bulk tank for free.


 
He has Bar and Chain oil in a 55 gallon drum? 

Unless you're using motor oil which is no longer a recommended practice. B&C oil has tackifier additives that help the oil stick to the metal much better than plain motor oil. Motor oil may work in a pinch/emergency but I wouldn't run it habitually.


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## golfandwoodnut (Aug 15, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Not to mention it makes the saw look like sh*t! Not hard to pick out what saws get used oil run through 'em.
> 
> 
> 
> It's less like recycling and more like dumping a quart of used engine oil out in the woods. Sombody once argued with me that it was ok because it was so spread out that it wouldn't affect anything.


You might want to read this thread, there are many professionals who swear by used motor oil.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/free-chain-oil.61159/page-4#post-767243


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## ikessky (Aug 15, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> He has Bar and Chain oil in a 55 gallon drum?
> 
> Unless you're using motor oil which is no longer a recommended practice. B&C oil has tackifier additives that help the oil stick to the metal much better than plain motor oil. Motor oil may work in a pinch/emergency but I wouldn't run it habitually.


Yup. He logs for a living, so buys it in bulk for the processor and his saws.


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## Danno77 (Aug 15, 2012)

DMZX said:


> I have been using Poulan bar oil, which goes for $10/gallon at my local discount store. After using 4 gallons of it I find it to be a great bar oil at a good price.


That's the stuff I've been using for several years now. Not that my opinion is better than anybody else's. I've already spent more time than I care reading these motor oil and canola oil threads, I eventually gave up and decided what i've been doing is just fine and I'd like to just get moving on the cutting.


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## StihlHead (Aug 15, 2012)

All's well that oils well...


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## StihlHead (Aug 15, 2012)

Jack Straw said:


> Thanks for the great info...is the cheap bar oil really as good as Stihl's ?The Tractor Supply brand seems so thick compared to Stihl's. If TSC's is just as good, I could save a lot of $ this fall!


 
Stihl does not make bar oil. They buy it and brand it. It is high quality virgin oil (not recycled, last I looked), with no addatives except a spendy type of tackifier. I have a bottle of Stihl bar oil here and it works/looks the same as the Durex stuff that I get (made in the PNW for loggers, and is actually good bar oil with a red dye in it). Poulan and Husky bar oil are both good, I have gone through many gallons of them as well. WallyWorld bar oil varies so much I do not use that any more. I would save the money for the spendy premix JASO FD 100% synthetic for the gas tank.

Back in 2007 we were complaining about $7 a gallon bar oil...


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## firefighterjake (Aug 15, 2012)

I suspect as long as we continue to stick something slick and fluid like in the oil tank things should be OK . . . providing it's not something like liquid Bondo say.

That said . . . I tend to stick with the tried and true bar and chain oil . . . usually buying the Husquvarna brand to help support my dealer (plus he keeps the cost pretty low to compete with the cheaper B & C oils available at the general store down the road) . . . but sometimes buying the even cheaper stuff at Tractor Supply, the general store, etc. when the price is too good to pass up or when the chainsaw shop is closed.


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## lukem (Aug 15, 2012)

For $20/gallon, it had better have a $10 bill taped to the jug.


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## StihlHead (Aug 15, 2012)

Oh no, that American $10 bill is mine!




Sheikh Hamad Bin Khalifa Al-Thani


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## ScotO (Aug 15, 2012)

i'm gonna follow Zap and SmokinJ and try out some canola oil.  I meant to do that in the spring, but got sidetracked and forgot all about it...


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## jeff_t (Aug 15, 2012)

I deliver 5 gal jugs of canola oil to my customers. Their cost is just under $30. Unfortunately, my employer doesn't sell stuff to us. I'm going to check Sam's Club next time I'm there, and maybe GFS. Could be pretty cost effective. I don't use five gallons of bar oil in a year, but I use all of three. I could subsidize it with kitchen use


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## MasterMech (Aug 16, 2012)

ikessky said:


> Yup. He logs for a living, so buys it in bulk for the processor and his saws.


Oh man, I gotta get me one of those... lol  55 gallon drum should last me and my 7 mo old son for the rest of our lives....


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## MasterMech (Aug 16, 2012)

golfandwoodnut said:


> You might want to read this thread, there are many professionals who swear by used motor oil.
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/free-chain-oil.61159/page-4#post-767243


 

Take a gander in some of your owner's manuals.  No saw manufacturer that I know of approves of running used engine oil as bar & chain lube.

Folks (professionals or not) swear by any method of operation that is cheap or at least gives them the perception of saving money, just like things that cost more money must be more valuable right?  And any method that saves them from the hassle of carting their oil to a collection center is bound to pick up support.


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## ikessky (Aug 16, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Oh man, I gotta get me one of those... lol 55 gallon drum should last me and my 7 mo old son for the rest of our lives....


 And for the past two years he has just dropped a forwarder load of 8' logs by my wood stacks for the following year.  All I have to do is buck it and split it.


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## smokinj (Aug 16, 2012)

Heck the whole barrle not much more.


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## StihlHead (Aug 16, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Oh man, I gotta get me one of those... lol 55 gallon drum should last me and my 7 mo old son for the rest of our lives....


 
I would not recommend that MM, as canola goes rancid in time. Short shelf life and the tendancy of it to gum up and chryatalize are the main issues against using it. That and it does not have a tackifier in it...


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## StihlHead (Aug 16, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Take a gander in some of your owner's manuals. No saw manufacturer that I know of approves of running used engine oil as bar & chain lube.
> 
> Folks (professionals or not) swear by any method of operation that is cheap or at least gives them the perception of saving money, just like things that cost more money must be more valuable right? And any method that saves them from the hassle of carting their oil to a collection center is bound to pick up support.


 
Also pro loggers/fallers are not the sharpest tools in the drawer, at least not the several hundred that I have met. Also in that thread they talk about using ATF for bar oil. BIG issue about that is all the detergent in ATF. The detergent disperses rapidly and gets into the ground water, and really f*s things up.

People, really... get a clue. Use that contaminated crap on your bar to cut your firewood and it will cycle back into you, your wives, your kids, your pets, your neighbors, your garden, and your water. If you want to lower your IQ with heavy metal contamination and raise your's and your family's chances of getting things like cancer, go ahead and use that crap on your saws.


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## smokinj (Aug 16, 2012)

StihlHead said:


> Also pro loggers/fallers are not the sharpest tools in the drawer, at least not the several hundred that I have met. Also in that thread they talk about using ATF for bar oil. BIG issue about that is all the detergent in ATF. The detergent disperses rapidly and gets into the ground water, and really f*s things up.
> 
> People, really... get a clue. Use that contaminated crap on your bar to cut your firewood and it will cycle back into you, your wives, your kids, your pets, your neighbors, your garden, and your water. If you want to lower your IQ with heavy metal contamination and raise your's and your family's chances of getting things like cancer, go ahead and use that crap on your saws.


 

Sure sounds troll like to me.........I know I know me and my family will die....Hate when people turns the internet to you have on choice or you Die!


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## golfandwoodnut (Aug 16, 2012)

I am often amused and confused by the opinons on subjects like this.  It is ok to put store bought oil in our saw and let it get on the land but used motor oil is going to give me cancer and ruin my drinking water.  Or was that coffee, or beer, one time it is good for me the next time it is going to kill me.  Canola oil is the best, no it is the worst because it goes rancid and doesn't have tackifiers.  Oil is fine when you put it in you car but now it is going to kill me when it comes out.  I guess our engines are radioactive.  I am amazed everyone that does oil changes is not dead by now.


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## MasterMech (Aug 16, 2012)

golfandwoodnut said:


> ...Oil is fine when you put it in you car but now it is going to kill me when it comes out. ...


Why did you take that oil out anyways?


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## Danno77 (Aug 16, 2012)

Don't use old motor oil. Baby kittens will die if you do. Don't use canola, unless you want your bar and chain to wear out.


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## golfandwoodnut (Aug 16, 2012)

I think I would be careful about calling loggers stupid on a site like this, or anywhere for that matter.


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## StihlHead (Aug 17, 2012)

Oh, pile on boys, pile on...

Having been a faller myself, I have called a lot of loggers and fallers I worked with stupid. A lot of them have fingers missing and stuff like that. Must be from their superior mental capacity I guess? Oh yes, I have gotten into a lot of fights in my day too. I call it like I see it.

As for bar oil, that stuff is not good either, but contaminating it with metals an blowby only make it a lot worse. As as I said my father practically drank the stuff, and he died at an early age, in a very ugly way. There are no great bar oil choices out there, but some are certainly better than others. If you wanna swim in toxic metals and blowby, be my guest. Just please stay away from me if you are going to do that though. And good luck when you get older.


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## smokinj (Aug 17, 2012)

StihlHead said:


> Oh, pile on boys, pile on...
> 
> Having been a faller myself, I have called a lot of loggers and fallers I worked with stupid. A lot of them have fingers missing and stuff like that. Must be from their superior mental capacity I guess? Oh yes, I have gotten into a lot of fights in my day too. I call it like I see it.
> 
> As for bar oil, that stuff is not good either, but contaminating it with metals an blowby only make it a lot worse. As as I said my father practically drank the stuff, and he died at an early age, in a very ugly way. There are no great bar oil choices out there, but some are certainly better than others. If you wanna swim in toxic metals and blowby, be my guest. Just please stay away from me if you are going to do that though. And good luck when you get older.


 

B.S.! You should find a Real Cause.......Oh, maybe something that all your expertise would do more good.


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## ikessky (Aug 17, 2012)

StihlHead said:


> I would not recommend that MM, as canola goes rancid in time. Short shelf life and the tendancy of it to gum up and chryatalize are the main issues against using it. That and it does not have a tackifier in it...


 FYI, this is bar and chain oil in a 55 gallon drum.  I'm not using anything else.


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## varna (Aug 17, 2012)

Good ole' 90w gear oil. when it gets cold below freezing I mix with the cheapest 30w I can get my hands on. Been using it for 30+ years.


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## MasterMech (Aug 18, 2012)

varna said:


> Good ole' 90w gear oil. when it gets cold below freezing I mix with the cheapest 30w I can get my hands on. Been using it for 30+ years.


What's your cost per gallon on that?  Gear oil isn't particularly cheap compared to B&C oil or others.


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## StihlHead (Aug 18, 2012)

smokinj said:


> B.S.! You should find a Real Cause.......Oh, maybe something that all your expertise would do more good.


 
This is a real cause and I say BS right back to you bubba, if you wanna run used motor oil in your saws. Becasue doing that will cause a lot of harm to you and your saw, as well as to people and critters around you. Heavy metals and blowby are highly toxic. Per your request here, if I can convince only ONE of the readers here on this forum to avoid using used motor oil in a saw to lube the bar, I am doing them and the world around them a lot of good.

I would say the same thing about using TWC marine premix in your saws, which I have argued with other people about on this forum. TWC rated premix oil is not designed to run in air cooled chainsaw engines, and you will be far better served to run JASO FB/FC/FD rated oil, preferebly FC or FD. I would go further to say that you are better off not running chainsaws with high vibration for long periods of time as well, or you are far more likly to develop problems like tendonitis, white finger, and arthritis. For that reason I would avoid running a Stihl 880 and 180 chainsaw, as they all have excessively high vibration ratings which commonly lead to medical problems. However, these two issues only inflict damage on your saw and yourself, so in my view they are far lesser issues than using used bar oil in a saw, which does greater damage than to just you and your saw.

One thing they teach us in avalanche rescue training every year (I am a member of the ski patrol). Humans have the inate problem of following other humans no matter what the risk. For that reason I have to go on search and rescue missions every winter here, and it is the same story over and over again. One person saw another person going out of bounds into a restricted area, and hey, they were fine, so I will be fine.. and whoooomph. Down the mountain they go. If they are buried, they are usually dead within 15 minutes. Then we have to find them and dig them out. While this is dramatic and unrelated to chainsaws, it still illustartes my point; just becasue some people do things and do not think it is a big deal, it does not mean that it is a good thing to do. You have to determine if the risk is worth the reward, and you have to realize that doing some things may well have a lot higher risk than they appear to have. Just becasue some bozo does something and says it is a good thing to do, does not mean it is a good thing to do.


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## DMZX (Aug 19, 2012)

"Humans have the innate problem of following other humans no matter what the risk."

The demographics of skiers/snowboarders and firewood cutters are not at all comparable.  The cumulative distribution functions of both populations are vastly different.


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## JustWood (Aug 19, 2012)

StihlHead said:


> ,,,,,,, if you wanna run used motor oil in your saws. Becasue doing that will cause a lot of harm to you and your saw, as well as to people and critters around you. Heavy metals and blowby are highly toxic. .


 
100% of intake air and gas/oil mix goes through the crankcase (= 100% of exhaust IS blowby)of a 2 cycle engine and is exhausted,,,,, into the air ,,,,, everyone breathes!! GAAASP!!
Crankcases are not EVIL ???????? OR,,,,,,,,, mayB you better scrap your saws and start cutting wood with a bowsaw ?????? Your families lives are at stake ya know


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## RichVT (Aug 19, 2012)

I will admit to being old enough to remember when it was common practice to dispose of used motor oil by dumping it in a shallow hole in the back yard.


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## Jack Straw (Aug 19, 2012)

I got 4 gallons of bar oil at TSC for 28$ today, should last me a year!


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## jeff_t (Aug 19, 2012)

RichVT said:


> I will admit to being old enough to remember when it was common practice to dispose of used motor oil by dumping it in a shallow hole in the back yard.



Also good for dust control.


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## Backroads (Aug 19, 2012)

Jack Straw said:


> I got 4 gallons of bar oil at TSC for 28$ today, should last me a year!


 
Same here. $7 a gallon. Hydraulic oil was on sale 10% off too!!


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## CaddyUser (Aug 19, 2012)

Hi folks,

I've been using the Husqvarna eco oil, which is sunflower and a tackifier for awhile, but switched to canola oil awhile ago because of the price difference.  I seem to recall another thread on this awhile ago....

Anyhow, as to the rancid aspect, any of the saws that I store for the off season, I run plain dino bar oil for the last couple of tanks.  That way I don't run into problems.  Seems to have worked for the past eight or so years that I have done it.....

Oh, and the other plus of running canola? When the bar gets warm when you are cutting, you get a good whiff of what smells like fries cooking!


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## RichVT (Aug 20, 2012)

jeff_t said:


> Also good for dust control.


 
Just make sure you know what's in your oil.

Anyone remember Times Beach Missouri?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Times_Beach,_Missouri


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## smokinj (Aug 20, 2012)

StihlHead said:


> This is a real cause and I say BS right back to you bubba, if you wanna run used motor oil in your saws. Becasue doing that will cause a lot of harm to you and your saw, as well as to people and critters around you. Heavy metals and blowby are highly toxic. Per your request here, if I can convince only ONE of the readers here on this forum to avoid using used motor oil in a saw to lube the bar, I am doing them and the world around them a lot of good.
> 
> I would say the same thing about using TWC marine premix in your saws, which I have argued with other people about on this forum. TWC rated premix oil is not designed to run in air cooled chainsaw engines, and you will be far better served to run JASO FB/FC/FD rated oil, preferebly FC or FD. I would go further to say that you are better off not running chainsaws with high vibration for long periods of time as well, or you are far more likly to develop problems like tendonitis, white finger, and arthritis. For that reason I would avoid running a Stihl 880 and 180 chainsaw, as they all have excessively high vibration ratings which commonly lead to medical problems. However, these two issues only inflict damage on your saw and yourself, so in my view they are far lesser issues than using used bar oil in a saw, which does greater damage than to just you and your saw.
> 
> One thing they teach us in avalanche rescue training every year (I am a member of the ski patrol). Humans have the inate problem of following other humans no matter what the risk. For that reason I have to go on search and rescue missions every winter here, and it is the same story over and over again. One person saw another person going out of bounds into a restricted area, and hey, they were fine, so I will be fine.. and whoooomph. Down the mountain they go. If they are buried, they are usually dead within 15 minutes. Then we have to find them and dig them out. While this is dramatic and unrelated to chainsaws, it still illustartes my point; just becasue some people do things and do not think it is a big deal, it does not mean that it is a good thing to do. You have to determine if the risk is worth the reward, and you have to realize that doing some things may well have a lot higher risk than they appear to have. Just becasue some bozo does something and says it is a good thing to do, does not mean it is a good thing to do.


 
LOL, I never said anything about used motor oil Just the fact you have never been a logger! Never will be. What I dont need or ever will is you saving my family! (Only guy in the world who can save my my my family in the gear fourm)


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## StihlHead (Aug 24, 2012)

Ba ha ha ha ha! I have never been a logger? That would be wrong there, but then you do not know me or who I am, and where I have been a faller (hint: California falling redwoods and OR falling many many many types of big trees). I have also owned and logged several hundred acres of tree stands in the Coastal range. But then, what do you know? Obviously nothing.

Man, you remind me of the worst mofo's over on arboristshyte...


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