# Direct vent gas fireplace vent



## mike22 (Feb 27, 2014)

I am new to the forum so be nice please. I have a direct vent gas fireplace in newly purchased house. The vent is rigid metal and goes up a few feet then 90 degree bends to go outside wall. At the bend the bottom part of the elbow is not sitting on the vertical portion. Is this something I can fix on my own by just reconnecting the pipes or do they have to sealed or something professionally?

It is a regancy fire model p36 zero tolerance


----------



## DAKSY (Feb 27, 2014)

Morning, Mike. Welcome to the forum. Please take a picture of the situation & post it. 
Also tell us who the manufacturer & what the model of your unit is.
We can probably help you if we have that info.


----------



## mike22 (Feb 27, 2014)

DAKSY said:


> Morning, Mike. Welcome to the forum. Please take a picture of the situation & post it.
> Also tell us who the manufacturer & what the model of your unit is.
> We can probably help you if we have that info.


I edited my original post with a picture and model info. Let me know please if I did it right.


----------



## DAKSY (Feb 27, 2014)

Regency P36 is a good unit. I don't understand why the installer used the more expensive black painted DV pipe, but that's what's there. Anyway, the vent sections should "twist lock together for safety reasons, & you will have to remove the plumber's strap to do that. Once the
strap is removed, you should be able  to remove the horizontal section, as that is connected to another short piece that "slips" into the cap.
Once you get that out, remove the elbow & twist it onto the vertical piece. Then reassemble the horizontal pieces & twist lock them into the elbow. You will have to push the assembly into the cap first & then pull it back until it engages the elbow. Once you have everything connected, reinsstall the plumber's strapping. If you understand the process, let us know how you make out. If you have any further questions, or if you can't get up in there to disassemble the venting, let me know. There IS a "bubblegum & bailing wire" fix that will work, but it's not the RIGHT way to repair your problem.


----------



## mike22 (Feb 27, 2014)

So the order of reassembly is elbow to vertical and twist to lock. Then horizontal pushed into cap at wall, but no twist? Then last horizontal onto elbow by pulling away from wall, with twist to lock at elbow? Thanks for the advice I really appreciate it.


----------



## DAKSY (Feb 27, 2014)

The horizontal section will twist into the elbow & into the slip section in the cap. The slip is just that. It'll probably slide 6-10" within the cap.


----------



## mike22 (Feb 27, 2014)

Thanks so much. Seems simple enough if I can get access to it. Two last questions, sorry. There is no sealant or glue or anything required to makes them air tight connections and how far should they twist?


----------



## DAKSY (Feb 27, 2014)

No sealant required. There is an overlap of about 1.5" & that's good enough to seal the intake from the exhaust. 
The twist lock is about 1/4 turn & you will feel it when the tab hits the end of the slot. It'll stop dead.


----------



## mike22 (Mar 11, 2014)

DAKSY said:


> No sealant required. There is an overlap of about 1.5" & that's good enough to seal the intake from the exhaust.
> The twist lock is about 1/4 turn & you will feel it when the tab hits the end of the slot. It'll stop dead.


 Finally getting around to postin an update. I got it all connected properly now an the fireplace is working great. Thanks for your advice. I noticed there is a gap between the hole in my wall and the exhaust pipe so some cold air comes in around the pipe. Can I spray foam the gap or is that a bad idea since the exhaust pipe may get hot? Thanks


----------



## DAKSY (Mar 11, 2014)

mike22 said:


> Finally getting around to postin an update. I got it all connected properly now an the fireplace is working great. Thanks for your advice. I noticed there is a gap between the hole in my wall and the exhaust pipe so some cold air comes in around the pipe. Can I spray foam the gap or is that a bad idea since the exhaust pipe may get hot? Thanks



Go to your local hearth shop or even a True Value, & ask for some 3/4" tape gasket. You can wrap that around the OD of the DV & tight against the wall thimble to close the gap. You may need about 50" to go around the vent a couple of times.


----------

