# How often do you sharpen your chainsaw



## Dmitry (Jan 24, 2015)

This is my first chainsaw - Husqvarna 460,24 inch bar, Bought a house about a year ago , new to the wood processing business .  Run it for a while out of the box, when noticed that  it produced smaller shavings got a kit for sharpening.
    Back to  the cutting but wondering if I need to sharpen it again. Just cut down a large red oak.The shavings are not too small but I feel it can be sharper.
 How often do you sharpen your saw, I know it's dumb question since  a lot of factors involved, but I just want to get a reference point. The professionals  who cut trees  for my neighbor did it before they started in the morning. Should I do it every time if I plan to cut all day non-stop. ( or until I drop).


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## TreePointer (Jan 24, 2015)

That question gets asked frequently here.  Simple answer:  when it gets dull.

How do you know when?  Experience.  Feel.  You'll notice smaller chips and dust instead of the larger chips with essentially no dust that you saw when cutting with the sharp chain.

Lots of factors.  Cut soft pine or poplar and it will likely cut effectively for multiple tanks of fuel.  Cut hard dry oak or gum, then you might need to sharpen it at the end of a tank or sooner.  Hit dirt or a nail when you first put it into wood, and you need to sharpen your chain or even get a new one within seconds.

BTW, hand sharpening a chain often can get it sharper than it's original condition when new.


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## Dmitry (Jan 24, 2015)

Thank you.  It's all makes sense. Yeah , I was cutting some tulips and other softer wood for hours with no change in feel.  I cut red frozen oak this week and after couple tanks I felt it needs to be sharpen but was confused it's so soon.


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## TreePointer (Jan 24, 2015)

That sounds right.  I'm sure you'll pick up more tips.

Another thing to note is that a properly sharpened chain should cut it's own way into the wood, meaning that you shouldn't have to lean on it much at all to cut effectively. If you have to lean on the saw to get it to cut, it's dull.

And sometimes a just sharpened chain won't seem to cut like it should.  That means you need to file down the depth gauges/rakers.  Well, either that or you put the chain on backwards.


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## Dmitry (Jan 24, 2015)

Yes ,sir. I was cutting big trunk laying on a ground and it seemed like I needed to push more and more to cut trough it. Can't wait to sharpen it and try it tomorrow .    ......yeah..,its  100%  chance of snow tomorrow  here in CT.


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## TreePointer (Jan 24, 2015)

Dmitry said:


> Yes ,sir. I was cutting big trunk laying on a ground and it seemed like I needed to push more and more to cut trough it. Can't wait to sharpen it and try it tomorrow .    ......yeah..,its  100%  chance of snow tomorrow  here in CT.



It seems we'll dodge most of that storm here in western PA.  Good luck with that snow.


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## Joe13 (Jan 24, 2015)

I tend to sharpen my chain at the beginning of the day. Sometimes earlier, sometimes i go two days. If im cutting hickory, It dulls a lot quicker. If i cut ash, itll cut for quite a while between sharpening.


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## saskwoodburner (Jan 24, 2015)

TreePointer said:


> That sounds right.  I'm sure you'll pick up more tips.
> 
> Another thing to note is that a properly sharpened chain should cut it's own way into the wood, meaning that you shouldn't have to lean on it much at all to cut effectively. If you have to lean on the saw to get it to cut, it's dull.
> 
> And sometimes a just sharpened chain won't seem to cut like it should.  That means you need to file down the depth gauges/rakers.  Well, either that or you put the chain on backwards.



This is so true. When the chain is sharp, you won't need to help it along, it'll pull itself through the log...you're just there to hold the saw.

Do yourself a favor and use a gauge for taking the rakers down. My father is old school, eyeballs everything, and I still remember trying to use his chainsaw as a kid....what a grabby ornery thing it was once he touched up the chain. I didn't touch a saw for probably 20 years I was scared of them.


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## Osagebndr (Jan 24, 2015)

Ice , snow, dirt all reek havoc on chains. Get the Stihl chain sharpener ( can't remember the name of it) it's in a frame and I believe I read in another post that it has a built in guide/raker file, they're around $50-60 but worth it. Check your bar also on the cutting side and nose as they need dressed with a file to take the bur from cutting off and flip your bar every other sharpening to try and prevent the bur from getting very bad, also extends the life if your bar


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## D8Chumley (Jan 24, 2015)

Here's the one I got, works well so far  Make sure to get the right size for your chain
http://www.pferd.com/images/Prospekt_Kettensaegeschaerfgeraet_CS_X_2011_150dpi_en.pdf


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## mark cline (Jan 25, 2015)

Over the years , I have been able  to collect about 20 chains for my 16" bars and about 25 for my 20" bars. I use a cheap Northern tool chain sharpener and can sharpen about 10 chains in an hour. I bought the chains in lots of 10 through baileys and other logging supply stores for about $10 each . I'll change chains when I start to see dust or small chips  this way , the chain never gets too beat up and makes sharpening easier. Any time I accidently touch the ground , dirt etc. I'll change chains .  I always have at least 5 or more chains available with me , so it elimin ates any down time.


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## Starstuff (Jan 25, 2015)

Sharpening and changing chains is a PIA. I bought a Stihl Rapid Duro carbide chain. Supposed to last 4X longer that a regular chain, but I think it will go even longer than that. I've cut up quite a few trees (hard and soft) at this point and it's still going strong. Also, it is unfazed by old dead wood or the occasional ground touch. Dead trees with any amount of rot will dull your chains very quickly. Got a good deal on the chain on eBay, but you do have to have a special diamond sharpener. I haven't had to sharpen yet, so we'll see how easy it is. If I have to send it into Stihl to get sharpened properly, then its advantages become moot.


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## j7art2 (Jan 26, 2015)

I sharpen my saw before every use unless I'm cutting box elder. Box elder is twice a day.

I use a Timberline Professional Manual Sharpener. Works well.


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## Wood Duck (Jan 26, 2015)

There are times when I can cut for a couple of hours without sharpening, and other times I need to sharpen more often than I need to add gas. In some cases it is easy to tell what dulled the chain (dirty wood, I hit a rock, etc.) but other times I can't figure out why the chain is going dull quickly.


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## ssoucy (Jan 26, 2015)

at the beginning of the day and every time I hit a rock there after.


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## claydogg84 (Jan 26, 2015)

I'm willing to bet your Husky came with a homeowner chain (low kick-back) like my 455 Rancher did. That chain will never cut nearly as fast as an aggressive chain can, nor it is sharpening friendly as the size of the rakers are obnoxious. Once you replace it with a real chain you'll be amazed at the difference. I've sharpened my chain maybe 20-30 times and am still trying to perfect it. As someone else mentioned, my chain is sharper after I'm done using the file on it than it was brand new. It takes practice, and patience.


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## Kenster (Jan 26, 2015)

I run yellow chains on my Stihl MS 390- 16 inch bar.  I cut about 99% oak of various kinds and an occasional pignut hickory.  I hand sharpen with every other gas fill.  I need a break by then and chain is probably throwing some dust by that time.  I also TRY to sharpen before I put the saw away for the day but don't always do that because sometimes I'm so beat it's all I can do to drag myself back to the house.  In which case, I'll sharpen it first thing before I head back to the woods.  And I definitely end the season by given the saw a thorough cleaning and sharpening.


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## Jon_E (Feb 8, 2015)

I sharpen after every two tanks of gas.  Even if it only needs a touch-up.  Rakers get filed probably every third or fourth sharpening.


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## computeruser (Feb 8, 2015)

Depends on what is being cut.  Generally, every couple tanks is good - even if it isn't "dull" yet, it benefits from a touch-up by that point.


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## lindnova (Feb 9, 2015)

I have a Northern Tool bench sharpener - clone to an Oregon one.  http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/accessories/510A-BenchChainGrinder.htm.  I use hand files most of the time and use the bench grinder to align better or if I hit metal and need to take a lot off.

I usually run the file on the chain after every tank or two depending on how it cuts.  I use full round chisel chains which get dull faster, especially if I am in dirty wood.

It is an art to sharpening, but once you learn the technique, and raker depths, it makes cutting much more enjoyable.  Look on youtube for videos on sharpening and hopefully you learn faster than I did when starting.  If you don't do much cutting you could get a few chains and take them in to your shop for sharpening.


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## Stlshrk (Feb 12, 2015)

I normally sharpen or swap chains when the chips being thrown get small.  You can feel it.  When the saw doesn't self feed as it should.  No reason to have to really lean on my saws too hard under most circumstances. 

My sharpening method of choice is a Granberg.  I used to grind, but my chains last 3 times as long and get sharper with the Granberg.  There is a little bit of a learning curve, but anything worth doing...  as they say.  

Cheers


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## teekal (Sep 27, 2015)

Hey guys, I am looking for advice on the quickest, easiest, but most effective way to sharpen my own saw. 

I purchased a home with a stove a year ago, and have only done a little bit of cutting, but plan to get into it a lot more this fall. So far I've been taking it to a local small engine repair guy who has been sharpening it for me, but I figure since I'm going to be doing a lot of sawing over the next few years I should really learn how to do it myself. What kind of tool do you use and what's the best place to get it?

Please keep in mind that I am only 1 year into my wood harvesting career, so I'm relatively new to all of this. 

Thanks for any advice!


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## Kenster (Sep 27, 2015)

First of all, get a spare chain.  Buy a sharpening tool and some round files. Be sure to get the exact files that fit your chain.  
The tool has a handle and flat guide that allows you to hold the file level.  The guide will have the correct angle with which you will lightly push the file across the chain. Just push.  Don't push and pull back and forth.  Usually three or four strokes per link is all you need for a touch up.  All my wood is good, clean oak.  I usually sharpen the chain at every other gas fill up. It forces me to take a little break. 
Lots of videos on You tube.  I hope you didn't wait til this fall to cut for this winter's burn.  Most wood needs at least a full year of seasoning before it's fit to burn.


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## TreePointer (Sep 27, 2015)

teekal said:


> Hey guys, I am looking for advice on the quickest, easiest, but most effective way to sharpen my own saw....



Basic option is a round file & guide appropriate for the chain pitch.  Flat/bastard file is basic for dressing the rakers.  Clamp bar (w/powerhead attached) in bench vise and have at it!  Note that most file guides are compatible with multiple chain brands, but there are exceptions, so it's best to use a Stihl file guide on Stihl chain, Oregon/Husqvarna on Oregon/Husqvarna chain, etc.

Me?  I file by hand in the aforementioned manner.  I take multiple chains into the field with me and swap in the sharp one when needed.  I do carry a stump vise in my field bag, but I prefer sharpening at home on my workbench.


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## teekal (Sep 27, 2015)

Kenster said:


> I hope you didn't wait til this fall to cut for this winter's burn.  Most wood needs at least a full year of seasoning before it's fit to burn.



Nope, I harvested a lot last winter which I'll be burning this fall/winter. And throughout the summer I've been finding a lot of already fallen/dead ash near the river that I've been drying and is all below 20% already. Right now I'm trying to get ahead for the next year or two.

Thanks for the advice, guys!


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## Dmitry (Sep 27, 2015)

Lot of people reccomend stihl 2 in 1 , seems like a good idea to cut your rakers while you are doing teeth . The thing is about 40$ . Seems like lot for basic designe . Probably worth it . I'm just too greedy


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## Kenster (Sep 27, 2015)

You're on the right track.  Most of us got by in our first years of burning by scrounging while we tried get two or three years ahead.


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## D8Chumley (Sep 27, 2015)

Dmitry said:


> Lot of people reccomend stihl 2 in 1 , seems like a good idea to cut your rakers while you are doing teeth . The thing is about 40$ . Seems like lot for basic designe . Probably worth it . I'm just too greedy


This. I got a Pferd and IIRC they make them for Stihl. I have a regular round file I was learning with but the 2 in 1 hits the rakers also, done and done. That's my preference anyway for 3/8 chains. I have an MS 170 with Picco chain I sharpen with my cheapo HF electric bench sharpener. Sharpen like 8 chains and it already paid for itself


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## barmstrong2 (Sep 27, 2015)

At work, cutting roadside, I'll touch up the chain with every fuel stop. Roadside cutting is a different breed of cutting. The trees have sand and dirt embedded in them, as well as the occasional barbed wire or nail. Chains don't last long. And, I'm on someone's else's dime.
Cutting at home, when it needs it. If I noticed I'm working harder than I should be small chips or if I hit the ground.


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## mass_burner (Sep 27, 2015)

I know I'll probably catch some flack but I take mine to my local aubuchon. They have a guy who sharpens and returns to store 1 week later for $8, does a great job. Usually do it before major cutting times, maybe 2x per year.


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## DodgyNomad (Sep 27, 2015)

I made up a bunch of labels from blue painters tape that say sharp, half, and dull that are stuck to the side of my equipment box.  I stick them on the top of the saw so I know every time I grab a saw what the condition is.  Very helpful when you have multiple saws going at any one time.  

I sharpen mine after every serious outing, or before going out to do heavy bucking.  If it's just noodling or cutting a couple of trees, I likely will end up leaving the sharp sticker on it, and don't touch it, unless it's dirty wood and needs a touch up.

Much easier to hit each cutter 2 or 3 times and keep them in optimal condition and cutting big chips, vs. letting the blade get dull and having to bring it back.


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## DodgyNomad (Sep 27, 2015)

Dmitry said:


> Lot of people reccomend stihl 2 in 1 , seems like a good idea to cut your rakers while you are doing teeth . The thing is about 40$ . Seems like lot for basic designe . Probably worth it . I'm just too greedy




It's an amazing sharpening tool.  Worth every penny imo.  I only wish it was the first sharpener I purchased, not the 20th.  

I was going to buy it when Pferd first came out with it and won some awards.  Was cheaper at my Stihl dealer than what I could get it for online, under 40.  Paid for itself already in my book.


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## teekal (Sep 27, 2015)

Dmitry said:


> Lot of people reccomend stihl 2 in 1 , seems like a good idea to cut your rakers while you are doing teeth . The thing is about 40$ . Seems like lot for basic designe . Probably worth it . I'm just too greedy



Sounds great, thanks for the tips guys. I'm definitely going to pick up the Stihl 2 in 1 this week. So far I've paid a guy $15 to sharpen mine, so it'll pay itself off in 3 jobs.


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## DodgyNomad (Sep 29, 2015)

teekal said:


> Sounds great, thanks for the tips guys. I'm definitely going to pick up the Stihl 2 in 1 this week. So far I've paid a guy $15 to sharpen mine, so it'll pay itself off in 3 jobs.



Let us know what you think once you've gotten to use it.  If you can, stick the bar/saw in a vice and get in a comfortable position.  Works great.


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## teekal (Sep 29, 2015)

DodgyNomad said:


> Let us know what you think once you've gotten to use it.  If you can, stick the bar/saw in a vice and get in a comfortable position.  Works great.



I talked to my Pops, and he already has what appears to be the next step up. Does anyone have any experience with this model?

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41LhwZDHc1L.jpg

I am leaning towards getting the 2 in 1 anyway, as it seems a lot more user-friendly. Also you don't need to hook it up to a car battery in order to use it.


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## DodgyNomad (Oct 1, 2015)

teekal said:


> I talked to my Pops, and he already has what appears to be the next step up. Does anyone have any experience with this model?
> 
> http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41LhwZDHc1L.jpg
> 
> I am leaning towards getting the 2 in 1 anyway, as it seems a lot more user-friendly. Also you don't need to hook it up to a car battery in order to use it.



The biggest problem I see with people using electric sharpeners of all kinds is unevenness/inconsistency from cutter to cutter over time.  I've used several and own several electrics, and I find it hard to sharpen every tooth the same. 

I really notice it when I'm sharpening and correcting blades for other people who are using grinders.  The cutter length varies a lot especially on older chains.

Why I like the 2 in 1 it provides feedback better than my other file holders, and you can feel when the cutter/gullet becomes sharp so positively, in addition to fitting the hand so well which helps you maintain ideal angles.  When using electrics, it's easy to grind one cutter more than the next.  And with the cost of chains, I hate the idea of excess metal being ground off unnecessarily.


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## Firewood Bandit (Oct 8, 2015)

Tree pointer is right on.

The saw should pull itself into the wood and self feed.  The felling dawgs should not have to be used to cut a piece of wood.

In chainsaw races one NEVER uses the felling dawgs as it increases the risk of stalling the chain which would be an immediate loss. 

You could get some grinder(s)  From left to right, rakers, .325 and 3/8th/.404 grinders


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## Rossco (Oct 8, 2015)

Touch the chain up before every outing.

Nothing fancy just a few swipes. Rakers once a season.

My chain always performs and its on the second cutting season with room for another year. I have been using the same file for this chain as the teeth form to the file.

Don't carry any files or a spare chain either.

You will probably find the cut will slant off if you use the dog in a cut. That's if you only have one dog.


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## SawDust75 (Oct 9, 2015)

Simple...If you start seeing DUST instead of CHIPS time to sharpen the chain. It's not rocket science!


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## Stelcom66 (Oct 9, 2015)

I recently used mine for the first time since last winter. It tended to pull to the right. I assume that's because when I sharpened it I ending up filing one side more than the other.


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## BrotherBart (Oct 9, 2015)

Stelcom66 said:


> I recently used mine for the first time since last winter. It tended to pull to the right. I assume that's because when I sharpened it I ending up filing one side more than the other.



Exactly right. Ten years ago Eric Johnson a member here gave me the answer to that one. File one side then turn the saw upside down and file the other side. You can't do the same angle switch hitting.


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## highanddryinco (Oct 9, 2015)

While bucking up my landing logs today, I whacked a (definitely unseen) pointy piece of granite sticking up between two of the smaller logs a the bottom of the photo. Instantly screwed! Thank goodness for the old spare chain. I had been following the practice of dressing it up after every couple of tanks. Now I'll be spending some time in he garage trueing things up with the Granberg guide.
That's only about the second time in three years I've been bit. The first, an old power line lag screw and glass insulator was completely grown into a log. No chance I ever saw that one. That chain has never cut quite right since.


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## CrufflerJJ (Oct 10, 2015)

BrotherBart said:


> Exactly right. Ten years ago Eric Johnson a member here gave me the answer to that one. File one side then turn the saw upside down and file the other side. You can't do the same angle switch hitting.



Hmmmm....neat idea about flipping your saw.  It's always a pain to undo the wingnut on my Granberg to change from one direction of filing to the other.  I'll have to try flipping the saw over & see how that works.  Thanks for sharing!


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## saskwoodburner (Oct 10, 2015)

BrotherBart said:


> Exactly right. Ten years ago Eric Johnson a member here gave me the answer to that one. File one side then turn the saw upside down and file the other side. You can't do the same angle switch hitting.



That sounds so crazy, it just might work! I'll have to try that the next time I touch up the chain.


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## lindnova (Oct 10, 2015)

I turn mine upside down when in the granberg sawmill where I can't access the other side. Otherwise just turning the saw around works fine for me.


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## Stelcom66 (Oct 14, 2015)

Didn't think of turning it upside down, thanks.


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## jtstromsburg (Nov 12, 2015)

just to add. although I'm only a year into serious cutting, I bought a timberline and sharpen at every fueling on my 362CM.  It only takes a minute or two and I've found Im less tried and get much more done with a razor sharp chain. Once I got over sticker shock, I bought a second cutter for my extra saw, an Echo Cs-530.    
https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Nov 29, 2015)

The mistake a lot of beginners make is starting the day with a dull chain.  If you plan on going out into the woods and your first step is to sharpen your chain, stop right there.  The resting state of your chain should be sharp.  My wife and I live on a very large piece of property in a very rural area, next to a tree farm.  We also own the several mile road into our house which means we are responsible for taking care of it.  This means that, at a moment's notice, I may need to grab one of my saws and cut us in or out of our road.  This typically happens at least once a month.  If I had to first sharpen my chain, I would be out of luck.  When your are all done with your firewood cutting/tree felling/whatever you do with your saw, take time to relax and sharpen it immediately afterward.  I am in the habit of making that the end of my saw experience every time and it yields great dividends when you can grab your saw and know it is sharp at any given time.

As to the question of how often:  If you are not hitting ANYTHING but wood, I like to touch mine up every other time I refuel the saw.  Also, keep extra chains.  Lots of them.  I own 32 currently of different types including low kickback ones and professional chains.  This way you can keep plenty of sharp ones ready in case you hit a rock/nail/something while cutting, and simply change the chain out and keep moving.  Organize the dull ones so that on a day when you have some time, you can sit down and sharpen a bunch.


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## tekguy (Nov 29, 2015)

I know its not the greatest but I have decent results with the Harbor Freight unit - I have spare chains and sharpern them all at once, setting it up for one angle - sharpening all the chains and then setting up for the opposite and sharpening all the chains (if that made sense-all my chains are the same)

and I change blades when I start to see some dust but I am stubborn so if I am in my last cut or two for the day sometimes i wont

hard to beat for $30
http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-61613.html

I know some people have the sharpening down to an exact science - if that you this isnt the unit I think you would want


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## D8Chumley (Nov 29, 2015)

I use the HF sharpener for my MS170 micro chains, I got the Pferd 2 in 1 for my 3/8 chains on my other 2 saws


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## usmc1371 (Nov 30, 2015)

I would rather spend a few min touching up a chain every fill up than a bunch of time at the end of the day.  It only takes a min to touch up a skip tooth chain, my full comp chain gets abused more and when its dull I take to the saw shop and pay 6 bucks.
      You can definatly get a chain very sharp with a file... Once you have masterd how to do it.  I personaly wrecked a chain or two in the learning process.  And on the rakers, one pass with a good file is fine.  4 hard passes is a fast way to make a chain so agressive that unless you have a Ton of power your saw will be a grabby dog that bogs down instantly.  Trust me I know.


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Dec 1, 2015)

Get the Stihl 2in1 sharpener!
View attachment 168294


Best tool to sharpen your chains ... as .. it sharpens teeth and rakers @ the same time ..  like new chains again!


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## bad news (Dec 1, 2015)

jtstromsburg said:


> just to add. although I'm only a year into serious cutting, I bought a timberline and sharpen at every fueling on my 362CM.  It only takes a minute or two and I've found Im less tried and get much more done with a razor sharp chain. Once I got over sticker shock, I bought a second cutter for my extra saw, an Echo Cs-530.
> https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/


 
I use the Timberline sharpener as well and find it does a good job.  I'd recommend it.


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## BlueRidgeMark (Dec 1, 2015)

Sean McGillicuddy said:


> Get the Stihl 2in1 sharpener!
> View attachment 168294
> 
> 
> Best tool to sharpen your chains ... as .. it sharpens teeth and rakers @ the same time ..  like new chains again!



I have the Pferd version of the same thing.  Since I started using that and got an Oregon 510A, I and my saws are MUCH happier.

I use the Pferd every two tanks, generally, unless it's needed more often.  Gives me and the saw a break, and only takes a few minutes to dress up a chain very nicely.

When the chain gets rocked, or otherwise is too far gone for the Pferd, I put on a fresh chain.  Once I get a few chains needing the Oregon, I spend a half hour or so in the shop making sparks.

This system has been great for me.  It has taken all the stress out of chains.  In the past I have fried a saw by pushing too far on a dull chain, and overheated the saw.   Never again. I got 4 new Stihl chains for each saw, and life is good.

By the way, I have found that the Stihl chains stay sharper longer than anything else I've tried, and that includes Husky, Oregon, and Carlton.


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