# Drolet Heat Commander



## Smackcat (Feb 5, 2021)

Just plugged in the brand new drolet heat commander and have a clicking noise coming from behind the unit just above the blower fan. 
not certain, but I believe it may be the automated damper door wide open, clicking against the stopper. 
What’s odd is, it’s doing it when it’s plugged in and the thermostat is off, not calling for heat from the wood furnace.
Anyone have experienced something like this!?  
Also, when I click the green “load button,” it blinks 5 times fast. 
This is the first time using this unit.


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## trx250r87 (Feb 5, 2021)

Smackcat said:


> Just plugged in the brand new drolet heat commander and have a clicking noise coming from behind the unit just above the blower fan.
> not certain, but I believe it may be the automated damper door wide open, clicking against the stopper.
> What’s odd is, it’s doing it when it’s plugged in and the thermostat is off, not calling for heat from the wood furnace.
> Anyone have experienced something like this!?
> ...



Do you have all the sensors plugged in correctly?

Maybe unplug and reset the unit. Both stepper motors should "slam" shut the primary and grate air openings when unplugged. 

Eric


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## brenndatomu (Feb 5, 2021)

Unplug it, wait a minute and try again? (oops, see that's been suggested already )
Anything in the troubleshooting part of the manual about it?


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## Smackcat (Feb 5, 2021)

trx250r87 said:


> Do you have all the sensors plugged in correctly?
> 
> Maybe unplug and reset the unit. Both stepper motors should "slam" shut the primary and grate air openings when unplugged.
> 
> Eric


Eric,
Thank you for your prompt feedback. I utilized the manual and figured out what connections were for the two auto-dampener doors. Each dampener had its own connection to the circuit board. Playing around a bit, I swapped them around. And, much to my satisfaction, it so happens they were incorrectly attached to the circuit board.
I do not know if it was an error from Drolet or the HVAC feller that installed it... because we had to take off the entire back of the unit (blower and electrical circuit board area) off to get it downstairs... thus, had to unplug the connections on the circuit board.
Anyway, thank you for the help and the suggestions. I’m happy she’s working now and blowing hot heat!
GOD bless!


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## Smackcat (Feb 6, 2021)

Overnight we had -22 degrees with windchill. The Drolet performed fantastically! I awoke to 76 degrees in the house.
I’ll take that!


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## Gbawol42 (Feb 8, 2021)

Smackcat said:


> Overnight we had -22 degrees with windchill. The Drolet performed fantastically! I awoke to 76 degrees in the house.
> I’ll take that!



Wow that's amazing.  I feel you have either a super tight home, or maybe not many square feet?


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## Smackcat (Feb 11, 2021)

Gbawol42 said:


> Wow that's amazing.  I feel you have either a super tight home, or maybe not many square feet?



The house was built in 1983 and it seems like it was built with pretty decent quality. It has triple pane Anderson windows throughout which aren’t original. We just moved in on New Year’s Eve so I’m still learning a lot about the house. The main living quarters which consists of a main floor and an upstairs is 2500 ft.². The basement adds another 1000 ft.², unfinished.

I did purposely push this thing a little bit more than I normally will just to get a feel for its overall potential.
I am now trying to determine if I have overdraft out of the chimney flue. It doesn’t seem like I’m getting a lot of noticeable secondary burns at the top of the firebox.


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## Suppwood (Feb 13, 2021)

Got my heat commander installed today. This is a replacement to a hot blast I had some issues with. I have base board heat so I have some work to do on getting this thing ducted properly in order to get the most out of it. With that said the basement is about 77 degrees , first floor is 70 . House is 2700 total sq feet. The hot blast did it but it cooked through wood and pushed heat through two vents I installed in the floor. Time will tell with this one. Install went smooth but with the two small fires I got going the stack temp has not gone above 250.


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## trx250r87 (Feb 14, 2021)

250 F? That seems low as a max flue temp but honestly I have not measured mine since installing the HC. 

Eric


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## maple1 (Feb 14, 2021)

Suppwood said:


> Got my heat commander installed today. This is a replacement to a hot blast I had some issues with. I have base board heat so I have some work to do on getting this thing ducted properly in order to get the most out of it. With that said the basement is about 77 degrees , first floor is 70 . House is 2700 total sq feet. The hot blast did it but it cooked through wood and pushed heat through two vents I installed in the floor. Time will tell with this one. Install went smooth but with the two small fires I got going the stack temp has not gone above 250.



Stack temp measured how? Have to be careful in measuring & comparing if not known. Internal can be 2x surface.


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## moresnow (Feb 14, 2021)

Suppwood said:


> Got my heat commander installed today. This is a replacement to a hot blast I had some issues with. I have base board heat so I have some work to do on getting this thing ducted properly in order to get the most out of it. With that said the basement is about 77 degrees , first floor is 70 . House is 2700 total sq feet. The hot blast did it but it cooked through wood and pushed heat through two vents I installed in the floor. Time will tell with this one. Install went smooth but with the two small fires I got going the stack temp has not gone above 250.



This number come from a magnetic gauge on single wall connector pipe?


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## Suppwood (Feb 15, 2021)

It did. Not the most accurate I know but on the old stove that thing about pegged almost instantly after lighting.


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## FixedGearFlyer (Feb 15, 2021)

Suppwood said:


> It did. Not the most accurate I know but on the old stove that thing about pegged almost instantly after lighting.



Welcome to the Heat Commander!

It's efficient and does a great job of getting an even output throughout the burn, as well as extracting as much heat as it can before the gasses go up the chimney.

On mine, I see a face temp (measured on the heat exchanger clean out door) in the low 300's and a flue surface temp of 250-275 when cruising mid-burn.


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## JRHAWK9 (Feb 15, 2021)

FixedGearFlyer said:


> flue surface temp of 250-275 when cruising mid-burn.



Your internal flue gas temps are probably anywhere from 450°-550°+ based on those external pipe surface temps.


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## FixedGearFlyer (Feb 15, 2021)

JRHAWK9 said:


> Your internal flue gas temps are probably anywhere from 450°-550°+ based on those external pipe surface temps.



That's my guess, too.


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## Suppwood (Feb 15, 2021)

trx250r87 said:


> 250 F? That seems low as a max flue temp but honestly I have not measured mine since installing the HC.
> 
> Eric


So phone rings today and it is Drolet. When I registered the stove for warranty I mentioned having questions about the stepper motors. To my surprise they called to ask what my questions were and provided answers. I’ve purchased many things and that has got to be the first time a manufacture called to address anything so soon after purchase.  Also said those temps would be normal depending on numerous factors such as wood species , call for heat, moisture content etc.


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## FixedGearFlyer (Feb 15, 2021)

Suppwood said:


> So phone rings today and it is Drolet. When I registered the stove for warranty I mentioned having questions about the stepper motors. To my surprise they called to ask what my questions were and provided answers. I’ve purchased many things and that has got to be the first time a manufacture called to address anything so soon after purchase.  Also said those temps would be normal depending on numerous factors such as wood species , call for heat, moisture content etc.



That doesn’t surprise me, at all. 

Without giving you the TLDR version, we are Drolet/SBI customers for life, now. They turned what could have been a truly terrible customer experience into an exceptional one. They stood behind their products AND behind us, as their customers, without any hesitation. I’ve gone through and debriefed the experience as an exercise in how I can make my own customers feel the same way in our family business.


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## trx250r87 (Feb 15, 2021)

Quick 1 hour time lapse video of reloading 12 3"-4" diameter red oak splits at 20% moisture content, log cabin style in Heat Commander.  Loading on some hot coals at 6:20pm,  3*F outdoors. Upstairs thermostat says 71*F, HC thermostat started at 65*F and at 7:16pm satisfied at 69*F. 

-6:15pm push reload button, reloaded 12 splits red oak
-6:32pm HC auto adjusts damper partially closed
-6:35pm HC auto adjusts damper open
-6:37pm HC auto adjusts damper partially closed
-6:46pm draft is established, I adjust key/manual damper to .06" wc on Dwyer Mark II
-7:16 HC thermostat satisfied at 69*F, HC enters energy save mode, auto damper closes, green light flashes, blower fan cycles @60 seconds on/60 seconds off



Eric


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## FixedGearFlyer (Feb 15, 2021)

trx250r87 said:


> Quick 1 hour time lapse video of reloading 12 3"-4" diameter red oak splits at 20% moisture content, log cabin style in Heat Commander.  Loading on some hot coals at 6:20pm,  3*F outdoors. Upstairs thermostat says 71*F, HC thermostat started at 65*F and at 7:16pm satisfied at 69*F.
> 
> -6:15pm push reload button, reloaded 12 splits red oak
> -6:32pm HC auto adjusts damper partially closed
> ...




Nice! We are warm and toasty tonight, despite -20s in the forecast.


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## Case1030 (Feb 15, 2021)

How many relights are you guys doing? Usually when I started the Tundra the fire didn't go out until spring. Just curious on the average burn times the new Heat Commander are getting.


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## trx250r87 (Feb 15, 2021)

Case1030 said:


> How many relights are you guys doing? Usually when I started the Tundra the fire didn't go out until spring. Just curious on the average burn times the new Heat Commander are getting.



I usually reload at 6am, 4pm and 10pm, give or take 30 minutes for each and I have not needed kindling for a week or 2.  It's very rare that the main floor temp dips lower than 69*F. 72/73 is the norm, even with this stretch where single digit highs and -15 lows.  I know I could push the furnace and pack more wood in but I have not needed to yet. 

Eric


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## Suppwood (Feb 15, 2021)

FixedGearFlyer said:


> Welcome to the Heat Commander!
> 
> It's efficient and does a great job of getting an even output throughout the burn, as well as extracting as much heat as it can before the gasses go up the chimney.
> 
> On mine, I see a face temp (measured on the heat exchanger clean out door) in the low 300's and a flue surface temp of 250-275 when cruising mid-burn.


That is spot on for what I get. I haven’t really pushed it with a full load. House it at 72 not an extremely cold night (30f). It’s been in energy save mode a few hours.


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## FixedGearFlyer (Feb 16, 2021)

Case1030 said:


> How many relights are you guys doing? Usually when I started the Tundra the fire didn't go out until spring. Just curious on the average burn times the new Heat Commander are getting.



In this cold weather, we've been doing 2 full loads per day, one at about 9 am and one at about 9 pm. We're loading onto coals.

In milder weather (20s and 30s), we've been doing one full load at about 9 am, then letting the pellet stove pick up the slack for an hour or two in the morning before we relight a cold furnace. We could do two smaller loads, too.


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## sloeffle (Feb 16, 2021)

trx250r87 said:


> I usually reload at 6am, 4pm and 10pm, give or take 30 minutes for each and I have not needed kindling for a week or 2.


Just like the rest of us I'm sure you are loading based off of outside temps / heat load. Are you loading roughly 12 splits to each load during the current cold snap  ? Any idea what they might weigh ? Just trying to get an idea on how much more efficient the HC is over the older Caddy's and Tundra's.


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## trx250r87 (Feb 16, 2021)

sloeffle said:


> Just like the rest of us I'm sure you are loading based off of outside temps / heat load. Are you loading roughly 12 splits to each load during the current cold snap  ? Any idea what they might weigh ? Just trying to get an idea on how much more efficient the HC is over the older Caddy's and Tundra's.


When I reload to increase the temperature of the house or in the morning when I have minimal coals, I use the log cabin method. When I load at night with colder temperatures and for a longer burn, I pack the pieces in with less air space between, and load all N/S. I also tend to use larger pieces over night and generally burn red oak.

I do not weigh any of my loads but I usually fill the firebox height wise. I don't know that the HC is much more efficient at burning, but more efficient at getting more heat into the house.

Eric


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## Suppwood (Feb 16, 2021)

Case1030 said:


> How many relights are you guys doing? Usually when I started the Tundra the fire didn't go out until spring. Just curious on the average burn times the new Heat Commander are getting.


Typical New England weather has prevented good testing. Reached 52(f) today. It’s  flipping February. I’ll get back to you next cold snap for a real test. If I take last nights stats about 30(f) outside loaded at 11 it was still pushing warm air at 8-8:30 this morning. Load was about six 18” maple logs one was a  4 inch round.


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## trx250r87 (Feb 16, 2021)

Suppwood said:


> Typical New England weather has prevented good testing. Reached 52(f) today. It’s  flipping February. I’ll get back to you next cold snap for a real test. If I take last nights stats about 30(f) outside loaded at 11 it was still pushing warm air at 8-8:30 this morning. Load was about six 18” maple logs one was a  4 inch round.


52 Fahrenheit? 19 degrees here in NE Wisconsin, felt like summer.


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## Suppwood (Feb 16, 2021)

trx250r87 said:


> 52 Fahrenheit? 19 degrees here in NE Wisconsin, felt like summer.


Currently it is a balmy 37.


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## JRHAWK9 (Feb 16, 2021)

trx250r87 said:


> 52 Fahrenheit? 19 degrees here in NE Wisconsin, felt like summer.



Got up to 16° by us. You are right, it felt damn near warm!  So much so that I forgot to throw some wood in the wood furnace earlier today.  LOL  Ended up re-loading with minimal coals.  First time that has happened in probably two weeks.  Back down to below zero tonight.


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## sloeffle (Feb 17, 2021)

-2 here this morning. I'm ready for winter to be over with.


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## trx250r87 (Feb 17, 2021)

sloeffle said:


> -2 here this morning. I'm ready for winter to be over with.


-11 here when I reloaded this morning. House is already 72*. 

Eric


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## JRHAWK9 (Feb 17, 2021)

-15° when I got up.  Although I kinda let my guard down thinking it was only going to get down to -8° like they forecasted....and with a forecasted high today of almost 20° I gave the Kuuma a break and turned it -way- down yesterday already.  I was surprised when I woke this morning and saw it was as cold as it was (it was actually -18° down by the creek, about 150 yards from the house).  House was still 68° though, surprisingly.     









sloeffle said:


> -2 here this morning. I'm ready for winter to be over with.



I love this $hit.    Winter is actually my favorite season, followed by fall.  Summer is my least favorite.  Much rather have this than 80'-90's and high humidity.  At least in the cold I can dress to be warm.  I can't get rid of enough clothes to be comfortable in the heat/humidity.


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## Gbawol42 (Feb 17, 2021)

trx250r87 said:


> Quick 1 hour time lapse video of reloading 12 3"-4" diameter red oak splits at 20% moisture content, log cabin style in Heat Commander.  Loading on some hot coals at 6:20pm,  3*F outdoors. Upstairs thermostat says 71*F, HC thermostat started at 65*F and at 7:16pm satisfied at 69*F.
> 
> -6:15pm push reload button, reloaded 12 splits red oak
> -6:32pm HC auto adjusts damper partially closed
> ...




I need to try this log cabin style of loading.  I usually just toss in 6-7, 4-5" logs just front to back load.  Wonder if it would burn differently?


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## sloeffle (Feb 17, 2021)

trx250r87 said:


> When I reload to increase the temperature of the house or in the morning when I have minimal coals, I use the log cabin method. When I load at night with colder temperatures and for a longer burn, I pack the pieces in with less air space between, and load all N/S. I also tend to use larger pieces over night and generally burn red oak.
> 
> I do not weigh any of my loads but I usually fill the firebox height wise. I don't know that the HC is much more efficient at burning, but more efficient at getting more heat into the house.
> 
> Eric


I've been playing with how I load my furnace this year. I generally cut my wood at around 16 - 18" so most of the time it won't fit log cabin style. When I have some short pieces I will load it log cabin style and it seems to burn a little better. I think I'm going to intentionally cut some pieces short this winter when I'm processing wood so I can take advantage of that more.

From the feedback you and others have been providing it sounds like the HC does a much better job in the coaling stage than the un-modded Tundra's or Caddy's do. My wood generally starts to coal after 5 or 6 hours and the heat output goes downhill along with it.


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## brenndatomu (Feb 17, 2021)

sloeffle said:


> I generally cut my wood at around 16 - 18"


Why so short? You are effectively reducing the size of the firebox by doing so...unless you are cutting short enough to load E/W
I personally wouldn't cut less than 20" for a Caddy (other than some shorter if you want to be able to do the log cabin style loading in warmer weather) all my wood was 22" when I had the Tundra, and that fit fine...could even squeak 24" pieces in at an angle on smaller loads.
More wood lbs. in a load, the more heat you get out...and for longer.


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## JRHAWK9 (Feb 17, 2021)

^^^^  I agree.  I cut all my wood 20-22".....for the reasons Brenn pointed out above.

Another advantage of longer splits is they have a less of a chance of tipping over when stacked.


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## sloeffle (Feb 17, 2021)

My totes are only 42 inches wide. If I cut my wood at 18" I can  stack it on the left and right hand sides of the tote and then run a stack perpendicular to those stacks up the middle. I'm also not use to playing with big wood. 

Now I know why you guys are getting these magical 12 hour burn times.


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## JRHAWK9 (Feb 17, 2021)

sloeffle said:


> My totes are only 42 inches wide. If I cut my wood at 18" I can  stack it on the left and right hand sides of the tote and then run a stack perpendicular to those stacks up the middle. I'm also not use to playing with big wood.
> 
> Now I know why you guys are getting these magical 12 hour burn times.




Well, it's a good thing your totes are not 30" wide, you'd be cutting your wood 10" long and wondering why you are only getting 4 hours of burn time!      

You probably should be cutting your wood to the lengths to which it will actually heat the house the best.


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## brenndatomu (Feb 17, 2021)

sloeffle said:


> My totes are only 42 inches wide.


2 rows of 21" splits...


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## sloeffle (Feb 17, 2021)

Rough crowd today.


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## JRHAWK9 (Feb 17, 2021)

sloeffle said:


> Rough crowd today.



I bet you did not know it was celebrity roast day today and you are the celebrity of honor.


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## sloeffle (Feb 17, 2021)

brenndatomu said:


> 2 rows of 21" splits...


Currently I just eyeball the length I'm cutting my wood. What tool do you recommend using so I can get everything at a very specific length ?


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## trx250r87 (Feb 17, 2021)

Gbawol42 said:


> I need to try this log cabin style of loading.  I usually just toss in 6-7, 4-5" logs just front to back load.  Wonder if it would burn differently?



I have found there are pro's and con's to the log cabin style of loading.Loading this way makes a faster and hotter fire that tends to burn clean. I didn't plan on purchasing the Heat Commander so most of my wood is cut around 18"-22" to fit my old Tundra. I'm going to start cutting some, maybe 20% closer to 16" long. I can then use these smaller pieces for log cabin style and/or loading E/W. I can also use these pieces to make kindling or just smaller pieces to get a fire started since I purchased a Kindling Cracker King, which is the XL version.

Eric


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## brenndatomu (Feb 17, 2021)

sloeffle said:


> Currently I just eyeball the length I'm cutting my wood. What tool do you recommend using so I can get everything at a very specific length ?


I have tried about everything, except a Mingo Marker...have made some measuring tools...half the time I end up using a mark I made on my chainsaw bar (or just the 20" bar itself)


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## Smackcat (Feb 17, 2021)

trx250r87 said:


> Quick 1 hour time lapse video of reloading 12 3"-4" diameter red oak splits at 20% moisture content, log cabin style in Heat Commander.  Loading on some hot coals at 6:20pm,  3*F outdoors. Upstairs thermostat says 71*F, HC thermostat started at 65*F and at 7:16pm satisfied at 69*F.
> 
> -6:15pm push reload button, reloaded 12 splits red oak
> -6:32pm HC auto adjusts damper partially closed
> ...



Wondering if you can help me a bit. 
watching your video is amazing. I now understand the “top down” burning method. It seems to engage itself when the secondary burn really kicks in. I’ve only seen this happen once on my unit so far and it didn’t last too long... I’m wondering if I possibly have too much chimney draft!? I haven’t bought a tool to measure it yet, but that’s the only thing I can think of. Magnetic thermometer on the exchanger door usually reads in between 250-325 depending on what stage the burning is in.
I see your Dwyer Mark 2.  Does that go to your chimney connector pipe and then do you regulate your “key” in the connector pipe to meet your .06” reading!? Does that key just turn a plate inside the connector pipe to slow down / speed up chimney draft!?
I’m just curious for any information on how to obtain the wood saving secondary burn more... because I seem to be burning more wood than it should as well as the amount of smoke coming out of my chimney is more than I understand it should be. 
thanks!


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## trx250r87 (Feb 17, 2021)

Smackcat said:


> Wondering if you can help me a bit.
> watching your video is amazing. I now understand the “top down” burning method. It seems to engage itself when the secondary burn really kicks in. I’ve only seen this happen once on my unit so far and it didn’t last too long... I’m wondering if I possibly have too much chimney draft!? I haven’t bought a tool to measure it yet, but that’s the only thing I can think of. Magnetic thermometer on the exchanger door usually reads in between 250-325 depending on what stage the burning is in.
> I see your Dwyer Mark 2.  Does that go to your chimney connector pipe and then do you regulate your “key” in the connector pipe to meet your .06” reading!? Does that key just turn a plate inside the connector pipe to slow down / speed up chimney draft!?
> I’m just curious for any information on how to obtain the wood saving secondary burn more... because I seem to be burning more wood than it should as well as the amount of smoke coming out of my chimney is more than I understand it should be.
> thanks!



Yes, too much draft will send more heat up the flue and decrease burn times. You should also pay attention to the auto dampers at the back of the furnace. Once your fire starts to take off and get up to temperature the left side damper (when facing the rear) should be closed, this supplies air to the grate at the bottom of the firebox. The right side damper should eventually close to around 25% open, this is the primary air. It will close down further when your thermostat is satisfied which puts the HC into "energy saving" mode. At the rear, located in the center is an opening for secondary air, this opening is fixed and does not change.

I get better secondary flames when wood is stacked close to the top of the firebox. A log cabin style method of stacking creates awesome secondaries, especially with smaller diameter pieces pf wood less than 20% moisture content.

As you can see by my magnetic thermostat on the clean out door and I also verify with a digital IR thermometer, my temps usually max out around 325*F and I don't think I have ever seen anything over 350*F there. The Dwyer manometer connects to the flue pipe closet to the furnace, before any manual or barometric damper. After the firebox heats up I then manually adjust the key damper (basically an adjustable metal plate within the flue) to slow the draft down to -.06" WC.

To address your last statement make sure:
-firewood is dry (15-20% moisture content, Drolet even gives us a meter to test this!)
-draft is correct (-.04" to -.06" of water column)
If both these are correct and the rest of your install meets the requirements in the Heat Commander manual you should be all set!

Take a video and upload it to youtube then post a link to it here. I'm sure we can help!

Eric


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## brenndatomu (Feb 17, 2021)

trx250r87 said:


> before any manual or barometric damper. After the firebox heats up I then manually adjust the key damper (basically an adjustable metal plate within the flue) to slow the draft down to -.06" WC.


Is a key (manual) damper allowed on these? Some wood furnace manuals specifically say no manual dampers. If you adjust the damper to -.06" when the furnace has the dampers closed down to minimum, your draft will drop when the dampers open up fully.
Also, any specific reason for running your draft at the upper end...to try and stay in the -.04 to -.06" range when the dampers open maybe?


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## JRHAWK9 (Feb 17, 2021)

JRHAWK9 said:


> Your internal flue gas temps are probably anywhere from 450°-550°+ based on those external pipe surface temps.





FixedGearFlyer said:


> That's my guess, too.



IMO, that seems a bit high when on cruise.....?


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## Smackcat (Feb 17, 2021)

trx250r87 said:


> Yes, too much draft will send more heat up the flue and decrease burn times. You should also pay attention to the auto dampers at the back of the furnace. Once your fire starts to take off and get up to temperature the left side damper (when facing the rear) should be closed, this supplies air to the grate at the bottom of the firebox. The right side damper should eventually close to around 25% open, this is the primary air. At the rear, located in the center is an opening for secondary air, this opening is fixed and does not change.
> 
> I get better secondary flames when wood is stacked close to the top of the firebox. A log cabin style method of stacking creates awesome secondaries, especially with smaller diameter pieces pf wood less than 20% moisture content.
> 
> ...



Awesome Eric, thank you for your help with all this.
I just ordered a Dwyer Mark 2 and will be interested to see what my readings are at.
I will measure the sections of stove pipe and create an accurate diagram to show lengths, bends and connection points to hopefully give you an idea of what I’m working with. In short, I have more horizontal piping to work with than vertical. I’m assuming the manual damper can also be used in a horizontal pipe... it would help regulate the air in the same way I’d imagine!?
And here I had it incorrect, I assumed the Dwyer would take the reading AFTER the damper, not before it (closest to the stove). 
So if I understand correctly, it would go like this...wood furnace>Dwyer meter>manual damper>chimney to outside...?
Again, I look forward to uploading a diagram to help give an idea of what I have to work with. Thank you for taking the time to help me on this.
Feel free to shoot me a text if you are comfortable doing so. If not, that’a OK too.  I’ll PM you!


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## JRHAWK9 (Feb 17, 2021)

Smackcat said:


> Feel free to shoot me a text if you are comfortable doing so.



I would edit your post and remove your phone number.  Otherwise you may get some unwanted calls from bots.  You can always PM him your number.


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## Smackcat (Feb 17, 2021)

JRHAWK9 said:


> I would edit your post and remove your phone number.  Otherwise you may get some unwanted calls from bots.  You can always PM him your number.


Lol,
 Good call on that one!


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## trx250r87 (Feb 17, 2021)

brenndatomu said:


> Is a key (manual) damper allowed on these? Some wood furnace manuals specifically say no manual dampers. If you adjust the damper to -.06" when the furnace has the dampers closed down to minimum, your draft will drop when the dampers open up fully.
> Also, any specific reason for running your draft at the upper end...to try and stay in the -.04 to -.06" range when the dampers open maybe?



The manual for the HC does specifically say not to use a manual damper and it does allow for a barometric damper, however, I have used my manual/key damper for the past 8 years without an issue. I really don't like the idea of a barometric damper for many reasons.

My draft does change when the HC auto dampers adjust. I do manually adjust to -.06 once firebox heats up and I check draft from time to time as I'm drinking a beer enjoying the fire. The HC is pretty forgiving, unlike the Tundra. If my draft isn't set perfect the HC can usually compensate and never have I seen anything close to an over fire. I am yet to see the HC go into "thermo protection" mode either, which would be indicated by a rapid flashing green reload light.

Eric


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## brenndatomu (Feb 17, 2021)

trx250r87 said:


> If my draft isn't set perfect the HC can usually compensate and never have I seen anything close to an over fire.


The issue is not so much too much draft (causing an overfire) as it is low draft...and potential for fumes in the house....


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## trx250r87 (Feb 17, 2021)

brenndatomu said:


> The issue is not so much too much draft (causing an overfire) as it is low draft...and potential for fumes in the house....


Never been an issue for me...


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## JRHAWK9 (Feb 17, 2021)

trx250r87 said:


> I have used my manual/key damper for the past 8 years without an issue. I really don't like the idea of a barometric damper for many reasons.



Just think of a BD as an infinitely self adjusting key damper in which you don't have to sit around to babysit.  

I'd think the pros of a BD would outweight the cons...vs using a key damper.


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## trx250r87 (Feb 17, 2021)

JRHAWK9 said:


> Just think of a BD as an infinitely self adjusting key damper in which you don't have to sit around to babysit.
> 
> I'd think the pros of a BD would outweight the cons...vs using a key damper.



I see them as another piece that can fail, stick open or closed, introduces cool air into the flue and contributes to negative pressure in  a tight house because it's always sucking air. 

I have used a baro in my last house where I also burned a wood furnace . That house was older and not as air tight. I already have issues with negative pressure so I didn't want to add something that contributes to that. Since then I got used to a key damper and installed an ERV to help with negative pressure and fresh air. 

I also have the ability in an emergency to reduce air to my flue and I don't have a gaping hole with a plate flapping in the breeze. No squeeks, no metal on metal bouncing and keeping me up all night because the furnace is just below my bedroom . No back-puffs can escape from my key damper like they could from a baro, no stink either. It's not for everyone but it works for my setup. 

Eric


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## laynes69 (Feb 17, 2021)

I couldn't complain this morning, -6f and the house was 69 after 8 hours. I reloaded at 4:30 am with locust rounds and when I got home at 2:00 pm the house was 73 and the low 20's outside. The breaker is off on the LP furnace so it's all or nothing!


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## JRHAWK9 (Feb 17, 2021)

trx250r87 said:


> I see them as another piece that can fail, stick open or closed, introduces cool air into the flue and contributes to negative pressure in  a tight house because it's always sucking air.
> 
> I have used a baro in my last house where I also burned a wood furnace . That house was older and not as air tight. I already have issues with negative pressure so I didn't want to add something that contributes to that. Since then I got used to a key damper and installed an ERV to help with negative pressure and fresh air.
> 
> ...



I don't have any negative pressure issues in this house!     I just didn't like sending heated air up the chimney, so that's why I installed a OAK on my BD.  It seemed to have made a difference in how the house heats.


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## FixedGearFlyer (Feb 17, 2021)

JRHAWK9 said:


> IMO, that seems a bit high when on cruise.....?



I haven't been concerned about it, since it's delivering more heat, more evenly, and longer than either of our previous wood furnaces. 

I trust that magnetic gauge about as much as someone from Microsoft calling to help me get rid of viruses on my computer. 

I'm not interested enough to put my own gas temp probe in the flue, but SBI's data pack has one that I installed. I can ask them for the actual flue gas temps.


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## Suppwood (Mar 8, 2021)

Just wanted to throw an update in. Short story.....I like it. Much easier to use, no more fear of runaways in the middle of the night, push the button light it and you’re done.  Consistent burn times of around 7 hours and plenty of hot coals after 10 hours  to just load it and walk away. Hottest exterior temps measure on pipe and stove face have been  400(f). Only recommendation is be prepared with duct work for heat delivery it’s got heat to give and if it got no where to go where it sits will be hot


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## sloeffle (Mar 9, 2021)

Suppwood said:


> Just wanted to throw an update in. Short story.....I like it. Much easier to use, no more fear of runaways in the middle of the night, push the button light it and you’re done.  Consistent burn times of around 7 hours and plenty of hot coals after 10 hours  to just load it and walk away. Hottest exterior temps measure on pipe and stove face have been  400(f). Only recommendation is be prepared with duct work for heat delivery it’s got heat to give and if it got no where to go where it sits will be hot


Can you expound on what you mean by runaways ?


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## 3fordasho (Mar 9, 2021)

sloeffle said:


> Can you expound on what you mean by runaways ?


A combination of conditions like a full load of wood, a thermostat holding the inlet damper open for very long periods (house too much sqft for furnace), no barometric damper and a good windy / cold night would cause my Tundra to get into overfire range.  On some very windy and cold nights, even with the inlet damper closed the flue temps would get a bit too high and I had to partially cover some of the air inlets.  In my case a proper barometric damper would solve it.


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## Suppwood (Oct 21, 2021)

FixedGearFlyer said:


> That doesn’t surprise me, at all.
> 
> Without giving you the TLDR version, we are Drolet/SBI customers for life, now. They turned what could have been a truly terrible customer experience into an exceptional one. They stood behind their products AND behind us, as their customers, without any hesitation. I’ve gone through and debriefed the experience as an exercise in how I can make my own customers feel the same way in our family business.


Any problems with your SBI product? My heat commander stopped working.


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## sloeffle (Oct 22, 2021)

Suppwood said:


> Any problems with your SBI product? My heat commander stopped working.


I've had my caddy for about 10 years now. I've had zero issues with it so far.


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## FixedGearFlyer (Oct 26, 2021)

Suppwood said:


> Any problems with your SBI product? My heat commander stopped working.


Ack! No, we haven't had any issues, at all. We've only had two fires in it so far this season, but it worked beautifully both times.

What is it doing or not doing? Have you reached out to SBI's customer service? They have always been very responsive to me and I just spoke with @SBI_Nick a few weeks ago.


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## Suppwood (Oct 26, 2021)

FixedGearFlyer said:


> Ack! No, we haven't had any issues, at all. We've only had two fires in it so far this season, but it worked beautifully both times.
> 
> What is it doing or not doing? Have you reached out to SBI's customer service? They have always been very responsive to me and I just spoke with @SBI_Nick a few weeks ago.


It is not starting. No reaction from plug in to power or “go button” there is power to board. They say a control board is being shipped.


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