# Can't get my pellets to feed :-(



## akthor (Sep 30, 2012)

So I spent the last two days installing my stove and now I can't get the pellets to feed.

It's a Magnum Baby Countryside, I replaced all the gaskets, cleaned and did the firepot and air wash mods. Got it installed but now I am trying to follow the manual directions for priming the auger. 

Turn it on, wait a minute, hold down the auger button till pellets drop into the firepot. I follow the steps but no pellets dropping. Grrrrrrrrrr

Please help I have spent so much money and worked so hard installing this thing I am heartbroken I can't get it to work.


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## akthor (Sep 30, 2012)

Tried the startup procedure as detailed on the Magnum site, everything works as it should except no pellets feed. Is there a key somewhere about what LEDs mean what on the control board?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Sep 30, 2012)

Does the auger motor turn? 

Is it connected to the auger?

The led information should be in the manual.


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## akthor (Sep 30, 2012)

I can't tell if its turning it looks hooked up? I don't see info in the manual about the lights?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Sep 30, 2012)

See page 31 in your manual.

Your controller is very similar to mine.

Did you set the draft to be open 1/4 of the way?

Is the air intake free of any packing material, likewise the venting?

Did the combustion blower start and spin up?


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## akthor (Sep 30, 2012)

Yes on intake, yes all free of obstructions, blower motor started, after pellets burned for a little bit the fan came on too that blows the hot air into the room.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Sep 30, 2012)

If the stove isn't feeding pellets how did you get a fire and the convection fan on?


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## akthor (Sep 30, 2012)

I put a handful of pellets in and starter gel and lit it as per the startup procedure on the website: 

http://www.magnumheatforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=648


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## SmokeyTheBear (Sep 30, 2012)

Does your stove have an igniter?


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## akthor (Sep 30, 2012)

No


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## SmokeyTheBear (Sep 30, 2012)

What lights on the controller are blinking when the stove shuts down?


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## akthor (Sep 30, 2012)

When I turn it off the auger light is blinking green. I will have to try again tomorrow and let it runtil it shuts off and see what lights if any are blinking.


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## DexterDay (Sep 30, 2012)

Open the side panel and visually look and see if the auger spins when you hit the button.

The Baby Countryside has a small bolt that stops the auger from just spinning the motor, which allows the auger to spin.

Have you tried to bypass the vacuum switch?


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## DexterDay (Sep 30, 2012)

When you start the stove, if the door is open to long, you will trip the stove and it will shut down. The door MUST be closed to activate the vacuum switch.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Sep 30, 2012)

And the vacuum switch must be closed for the auger to turn.


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## akthor (Sep 30, 2012)

Start the fire, close the door before I push the on button. Can I open the side door with it running? It won't set something off?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Sep 30, 2012)

You can open the side door.


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## DexterDay (Sep 30, 2012)

Yes. Open it and watch for auger spinning. It should hit a long bolt, which stops the motor from free wheeling and allows the auger to spin.

Opening the door will make you lose vacuum. Also note what light flashes on the board if it doesn't start.

Dis you replace the window gasket with the new glass? No gasket = large by-pass?


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## akthor (Sep 30, 2012)

Did new glass gasket, door gasket, dust hopper door gasket, pellet feed door gasket.

Didn't start a fire but turned it on and opened side door and held down the auger button and the auger did not spin


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## SmokeyTheBear (Sep 30, 2012)

Take some time off and then jumper the vacuum switch and try again.

Let us know what happens.

I'm packing it in for this evening.


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## akthor (Sep 30, 2012)

The auger light flashes green the whole time and for a little while after I turn it off.

There is what appears to be a speed or temp indicator on the left when I turn it on the is a red led one up from the bottom and one down from the top on it not sure what that means?


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## akthor (Sep 30, 2012)

Yeah getting late here too I gotta work early in the am, can you tell me how to jumper the vacuum tomorrow when you get a chance? When I get home in between shifts around noon I will try again. Thanks for all the help guys.


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## DexterDay (Sep 30, 2012)

Take a small 3"-6" wire and strip both ends. Then (unplug stove 1st!) Unplug wires from Vac switch and install the short wire (add spade connectors if possible). This will make stove think there is contact and should start the auger.


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## akthor (Sep 30, 2012)

Not to show my stupidity too much but what does the vacuum switch look like?


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## DexterDay (Sep 30, 2012)

There is a little rubber hose (1/4"-1/2" hose). Going from it to the firebox. There are only 4 components inside the shell of the stove. The Combustion blower, convection blower, auger motor, and vacuum switch. Should be down low.


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## nksdad2007 (Oct 1, 2012)

I'm not familiar with this stove, but does it have a switch on the hopper lid that prevent the auger from turning if not closed?


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## akthor (Oct 1, 2012)

Nope no switch like that.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 1, 2012)

Do you have a manual? 

If not download it and print it out, there are pictures and diagrams you can look at.


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## Don2222 (Oct 1, 2012)

Hello

I fixed a problem just like that. It was a bad low limit switch located on the exhaust fan housing in the right side of the stove.


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## jtakeman (Oct 1, 2012)

Is this the same stove that fell over on the way home?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 1, 2012)

Believe so.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 1, 2012)

jtakeman,

All Dexter and I want to know is if the vacuum switch is cutting off the auger feed at this point.

Don,

I don't know if the low fire snap disc is even in play at this point in the sequence.   But if it is faulty, I wouldn't have expected it to start the convection blower.


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## akthor (Oct 1, 2012)

Stuck at work til 9p tonight so I won't be able to do the jumper thing till later tonite. I will report the results.

I have been looking at the manuals online, they seem to be pretty general and spotty with info.

This is the stove that fell over.

I will report back around 10p EST

BTW smokey beer brewer here myself and hard cider fan also trying to open a nano brewpub/campground.


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## akthor (Oct 1, 2012)

Ok so I pulled the the wires off the vacumn thing, I didn't have any spade connectors but I put my jumper wire thru the little holes on the spades on the vacumn sensor and twisted the wireand put tension on the wire with the weight of a screwdriver, so I am sure there was contact. Plugged the stove in and turn it on, blower starts up up, red light blinks in the middle of the max/min led push the auger button - nothing, goes for a couple mins then shuts down.

Do I need to have a fire going while jumping the sensor? 

Going to bed now if you guys have any ideas for me to try I will give them a whirl when I get up in the morning.


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## DexterDay (Oct 1, 2012)

Is it heat level 3 light thats on? Or heat level 2? 

Big difference here. The stove will tell you whats wrong with it.

Its either a snap disc, or vacuum switch.


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## DexterDay (Oct 1, 2012)

Here is a small tidbit from a troubleshooting guide (PDF online, Manual is also available).


 Fire goes out, or stove shuts down automatically. The #2 heat level light is flashing- The stove’s vacuum switch tripped.  Check venting, doors, tubes, and vacuum switch.  Possible negative pressure in home, or venting configuration incorrect. Stove ran out of fuel- Load hopper. Auger jammed- Empty hopper and remove foreign object. The #3 heat level light is blinking- Proof of fire disk opened because the stove wasn’t hot or the disk needs to be replaced. High temperature snap disk tripped- Stove overheated and the snap disk has to be reset.  Possible causes for overheating include: room fan not working/not getting enough power or plugged, stove is plugged, jumper for feed rate in the wrong position, negative pressure in the home, unacceptable fuel being burned in the stove, inadequate air flow around the stove, high limit switch was bumped causing it to trip, etc. Poor quality or wet fuel- screen or dry fuel. Incorrect draft/feed rate setting- Either the draft or the feed rate is off and should be adjusted 

3. Fuel will not feed. Hopper is empty- Add fuel to hopper. Auger is jammed- Remove obstruction. High limit is tripped- Reset snap disk. Vacuum switch is not engaging- check seals on doors and/or check connections. Fuel is dirty or wet- Remove fuel and re-load hopper with clean dry fuel. Auger tube is scored- Hone, or buff, out auger tube. Set screw for the auger is loose- Tighten set screw on the flat part of the auger motor shaft. Circuit board not sending power to auger motor- Replace circuit board


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## heat seeker (Oct 1, 2012)

You need to short the two wires going to the vacuum sensor to each other. Shorting the two terminals on the sensor itself, unless the wires are still connected to it, does nothing.

It would appear, though, that the sensor is working, since I don't recall you mentioning the red lights blinking before. What the lights are telling you is that there is no vacuum, because the wires are disconnected (even though there may be vacuum in reality). It would appear that the vacuum sensor is working properly, and that there is sufficient vacuum to activate it. I think you problem lies elsewhere.

I don't see whether you have checked to see if the auger *motor* itself is turning. *Not the auger, the motor itself.* The motor may be turning without turning the auger. Please look at the motor itself, it may be difficult to tell if it is indeed turning. If the coupling screw is loose, the motor may turn without turning the coupling, which is why you need to look at the _*motor*_ shaft.


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## akthor (Oct 2, 2012)

Ok I couldn't sleep so I jumped the two wires together turned stove on. Blower comes on, red led is on at the min lowest square of the scale, auger light is green blinks steadily, every 5 blinks of the auger light the fan led blinks once (also green) I detect no auger movement, hold down the auger button nothing.


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## akthor (Oct 2, 2012)

I also don't see the auger motor moving


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## heat seeker (Oct 2, 2012)

If you have a voltmeter, you could see if voltage is getting to the motor when it should. If the motor is getting voltage, and not turning, it's either bound up or dead. That would be my next step at this point.

If you are comfortable with working with 115 volts (house power), you could make up a jumper set and connect 115 volts right to the auger motor (after disconnecting the stove wires from it). You need to be careful, since that voltage could be fatal to you if you get across it.

At this point, it appears to me that either the motor is bad, or voltage isn't getting to the motor. If voltage isn't getting to the motor, and everything else checks okay, it follows that the control board is bad.

Other than blindly swapping parts, I see no other troubleshooting paths other than what I just mentioned.


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## akthor (Oct 2, 2012)

I will get my hands on a meter seems seeing if the board is sending the correct voltage is the next logical step. Any idea what that voltage should be?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 2, 2012)

House voltage. Somewhere between 110 to 130 volts.

I'd also go looking for a loose connection in the lines going to the auger and to make certain the high limit snap disc isn't tripped, reset it if it is.  There is usually a red button between the terminals of the manual reset snap discs with the power off and the stove unplugged press the little red button if it has tripped the button will go in and click.

That led bar has  5 lights behind it starting at the bottom is 1, above it in order are 2,3,4,5.   If the middle light (#3) was on you had an open hi limit snap disc and the auger's power feed was shut off.


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## kykel (Oct 2, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> House voltage. Somewhere between 110 to 130 volts.
> 
> I'd also go looking for a loose connection in the lines going to the auger and to make certain the high limit snap disc isn't tripped, reset it if it is. There is usually a red button between the terminals of the manual reset snap discs with the power off and the stove unplugged press the little red button if it has tripped the button will go in and click.
> 
> That led bar has 5 lights behind it starting at the bottom is 1, above it in order are 2,3,4,5. If the middle light (#3) was on you had an open hi limit snap disc and the auger's power feed was shut off.


 Does this stove have fuses. Dont know if this was mentioned yet. My auger jambed last year and blew the fuse. the stove was 1 day old so had the dealer come out. Replaced the fuse and worked ever since


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## akthor (Oct 2, 2012)

I don't see any loose wires, pulled the wires off the the auger motor and put them back on they seem good and tight. When I turn the stove on I get the blower motor on, LED 1 is lit on the LED bar and the auger LED blinks, like I said above the fan LED blinks every 5 auger LED blinks or so. Pushing repeatedly or holding the auger button doesn't make the auger move I do not see or hear the auger motor moving. With no fire in it after a minute or so the stove shuts off but the auger LED will still blink.

I have never used a multimeter before so correct me if I am wrong. I pulled the wires (they are yellow one has a black stripe) off the auger motor connected the black lead from the multimeter to the wire with a black stripe, the red lead to the other wire, set the multimeter to AC 0-150.

When I turn the stove on the needle jumps to 60DC on the dial which is the easiest to read but it is also 20 on the green headphone symbol gradation which is ohms maybe? +8 on the AC one, then goes to zero after the initial jump. And while doing the described actions above the needle never moves.

I don't think there are fuses? I only see one of what must be the snap discs it is on the backside of the auger "sleeve, casing" whatever it is called and I can push on it but it feels like a button I feel nothing snapping? 

Is there another snap disc somewhere? I assume the auger motor is getting no power?


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## akthor (Oct 2, 2012)

I tied holding the on off button in for 7secs and cutting power while holding button for 10 secs for a hard reset. No luck. 

After the stove shuts off the #2 LED is blinking.


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## heat seeker (Oct 2, 2012)

You should look for AC volts on the motor leads. You shouldn't be trying to measure resistance (Ω) on a live circuit, by the way. If the meter is set to read AC volts, and you aren't getting house voltage on the motor leads when the motor should be running, your problem is upstream from the motor. That means bad wiring, blown fuse, bad control board, improper inputs to the control board, etc. At this point, from what I've read here, it appears that your control board is bad.

Did you check for the high limit snap disc, as Smokey suggested? Also, look the wiring to that disc over to make sure it's good. If that checks out okay, I'd say your control board is bad, probably a triac that is inexpensive to replace, but needs someone familiar with circuit board repairs to change it out.


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## akthor (Oct 2, 2012)

Can I jump the snap disc like I did the vacuum switch?


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## DexterDay (Oct 2, 2012)

akthor said:


> Can I jump the snap disc like I did the vacuum switch?



Yes.

All snap discs will have 2 wires on them. Follow the wires from the board. The manual says there is a resetable snap disc. Should be one in there. Unless it was replaced?

When the stove tipped? Did it bend the body of the stove? What side did it fall on?


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## akthor (Oct 2, 2012)

I only see one of what must be the snap discs it is on the backside of the auger "sleeve, casing" whatever it is called and I can push on it but it feels like a button I feel nothing snapping?


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## DexterDay (Oct 2, 2012)

Have you read the manual? 

It tekls what lights come on and why. The auger light flashed when it is supplied power. The heat level starts on level 2. And it shows 3 (Three) snap discs. A High temp (reset), a POF, and a Cooldown.

Page 26 shows the discs. And the pages afterward, explain what lights will be on and for how long. 

Here is a PDF of the manual (hope it works). If it doesnt download when you click on it,  then just Google Baby Countryside manual.  Its free. I suggest everyone read the manual 5 times before even attempting to light. Then while its lighting, read it 2 more times. Then at least once a season thereafter.


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## akthor (Oct 2, 2012)

Ok jumped the snap disc and the same results.


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## akthor (Oct 2, 2012)

Yeah I have looked at the manual again and again. I guess to really troubleshoot i have to light a fire and then track the lights. Same with jumping the vacuum and snap disc since with no fire the proof of fire switch will shut it all down anyways.

So start a fire. Then jump the vacuum if no luck then jump the snap disc then  So if it was the vacuum pressure switch or the snap disc when I jump them if it doesn't work still it's the control board or auger motor?

When the fire is going the stove does everything it should except feed the pellets so I think the other switches and relays are working right.


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## akthor (Oct 2, 2012)

No idea what side it fell on. Not bent or any dents or anything.


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## DexterDay (Oct 2, 2012)

Do you have a patch cord?  Can you wire the auger? 

I know it was asked above, but sometimes things are forgotten. This will rule out a faulty auger motor. 

The light sequence sounds like the board is acting as it should. 

Is the stove in Manual? Auto? Should be in manual, unless you have it connected to a T-stat.

Follow all the wires from the board. There are 2 more snap discs, one is probably behind the insulation on the back of the stove (inside the back panels/making contact with the back wall of firebox). The other looks to on or near exhaust.

I will try and get over to my buddies house or get him on here.


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## jtakeman (Oct 2, 2012)

One thing you can check is sometimes the wires pull slightly out of the white molex connector on the control board or the molex itself isn't fully connected. With power off/unplugged push all the wires back towards the connector. Make sure connector is tight. 

Next look at the auger motor itself. Use a lamp cord and wire it to the motor(get the proper connectors to crimp on the lamp cord end). If the auger doesn't turn its often the wires that go to the pancake motor break(leads going to the coil). Visualy inspect the wires for breaks(unplugged please).


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## akthor (Oct 2, 2012)

The other switches aren't ones you can reset and they seem to be working as they should.

Stove is in manual.

I will check the molex connectors.

Patch cord? Is that just a lamp cord? I have lamp cord so do I hook it to the motor and plug it in and see if the motor turns?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 2, 2012)

akthor said:


> The other switches aren't ones you can reset and they seem to be working as they should.
> 
> Stove is in manual.
> 
> ...


 

Be certain that the connections to that auger motor from the stove are disconnected before using that patch cord.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 2, 2012)

Hopefully this will be readable.

This is the troubleshooting information for your stove and what you have for a condition.


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## akthor (Oct 2, 2012)

The other switches aren't ones you can reset and they seem to be working as they should.

Stove is in manual.

I will check the molex connectors.

Patch cord? Is that just a lamp cord? I have lamp cord so do I hook it to the motor and plug it in and see if the motor turns?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 2, 2012)

akthor said:


> The other switches aren't ones you can reset and they seem to be working as they should.
> 
> Stove is in manual.
> 
> ...


 
Yes on the patch cord just be certain the wiring in the stove going to the auger motor is disconnected before attaching the patch cord.


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## akthor (Oct 2, 2012)

Sorry for the double posts the interweb is acting up today.

At work now won't be able to trouble shoot more until Friday.


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## Czech (Oct 4, 2012)

The gang told me to stop by, I burn a Baby myself, among other things. That said, I can't think of one thing that has not been mentioned already, darn fine job they do here. IMHO you'll need to figure out if the auger is working by hot wiring it, if not you have your problem. If so, you need to work backwards from there I guess. These stoves are pretty simple with realitively lots of space to work, heck with both doors open you can almost see daylight. I'll take a look at mine and see if I can come up with anything.


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## akthor (Oct 5, 2012)

OOOOkay well that didn't go as I think it was supposed to. Unplugged the motor and hooked up the lamp cord made sure my wires were right and nothing touching what it shouldn't ect.plugged it in and ZAPPPPPPP! Sparks flew and a little puff of smoke came out of the motor. I uplugged it fast. It also blew the breaker. What now?


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## heat seeker (Oct 5, 2012)

If everything was hooked up properly to the motor, it looks like the motor is internally shorted, which in turn probably took out the driver on your control board. You probably didn't see any sparks or smoke at the time because the triac acted as a fuse and limited the current when it blew. Or, it burned a trace or two off the circuit board. A visual inspection of the board would show burned traces.


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## akthor (Oct 5, 2012)

I visually inspected the board ( both sides ) no signs of any burned traces.

So do I need a new motor? Can this be fixed? There is an electric motor place up in Bangor.


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## heat seeker (Oct 5, 2012)

I'm assuming that the motor runs on house voltage, as most do. That is why you can use what we used to call a "cheater cord" plugged into an outlet to test it.

From what I've read and interpreted, you need a new motor, but I'd like to see what others have to say. Remote troubleshooting is sort of "iffy". Assuming you get a new motor installed, it may run all the time if the triac is shorted. If the motor is indeed shorted internally, it's likely that something else got damaged, hopefully just a fuse, but maybe the triac driving the motor. They are cheap and easy to change if you have a bit of soldering experience on circuit boards. Let's see what others have to say.
In answer to your question: Sorry to say, I doubt the motor can be repaired economically.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 5, 2012)

Can you remove the auger motor and read the information on the makers plate (label) and tell us what it says the auger motors are fairly standard and can be purchased on line once you know exactly what you are looking for.

You have to match up the voltage, rpms, current draw, and physical mount requirements to select a replacement.


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## akthor (Oct 5, 2012)

Ummm I hope so, power doesn't go right from the wall into the board or motor it goes into like a power block like my xbox or laptop then out.


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## akthor (Oct 5, 2012)

I will work on getting it out later. Frustrated and drinking heavily now.


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## DexterDay (Oct 5, 2012)

It appears as if you have the DC model of Baby Countryside. 

Is there a little odd looking plug in port on the back of the stove? On the lower right hand side?


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## akthor (Oct 5, 2012)

No no odd looking plug in or port


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 5, 2012)

What color were the wires going to the auger motor?


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## akthor (Oct 5, 2012)

Yellow and yellow with a black stripe.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 5, 2012)

You have the DC version of the Magnum the motors for that unit are not AC line voltage.

Now let me look at that schematic and see what else is different between that model and the AC one.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 5, 2012)

Are there two fuses inside the stove shell near the transformer?

Please snap some pictures of the insides starting where the power line enters the stove and goes to that little xbox like brick and out to the control board.

What year is this unit and is it a used unit?


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## akthor (Oct 5, 2012)

No idea what year?


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## akthor (Oct 5, 2012)

I see no fuses


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## DexterDay (Oct 5, 2012)

There should be a metal tag on the back of the stove. It will have all the info on clearances and also the model and the year of Manufacture.


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## akthor (Oct 5, 2012)

Yes got it used $300 from a friend so I know it was working until the tip over in truck on way here.


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## akthor (Oct 5, 2012)

Hard to see now that its installed and about 8" from wall


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## akthor (Oct 5, 2012)

looks like jan 2006


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 5, 2012)

OK akthor I have PM in to Czech given what I see in the manual for your stove that brick might be an owner modification.

That all aside, if the information is available from that auger motor we likely can find a motor.  That one is now likely fried.

The fact you have a DC unit also means that if the wiring came loose and was hooked back up in the wrong manner that auger motor might have been turning backward.   As DC motors are sensitive to polarity to determine which way they rotate.  An auger motor running backwards is non pellet feeding.


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## akthor (Oct 5, 2012)

The wiring wasn't loose to my knowledge I believe I put it back on the way it was when I took it off to test things, since its DC I guess that explains why it wasn't showing anything on the multimeter since I had it set to AC. I only got a couple hours before I gotta head to bed. I work tomorrow so I won't be able to tackle getting the motor out till Sunday. I hope I can remove it without moving the stove cuz getting the stove installed where its at was a real PITA


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 5, 2012)

RP2020 Auger Motor DC, 2rpm Models: MagnuM Avent DC, MagnuM Baby Countryside DC, MagnuM Essex DC, MagnuM T40 Fireplace Insert DC, MagnuM T40 Queen Ann Leg Unit DC, MagnuM Winchester DC, MagnuM Winchester DC Fireplace Insert

This is the AES number and motor description they have it available for $115 we should be able to find one for less if we can find the voltage information which should be on that motor somewhere.

Your stove can be run off of a battery during a power outage.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 5, 2012)

It is important to take your time and it really helps if you have the manual that goes with the stove.   I for one will be away Sunday daytime and will have company Sunday evening (camp close up weekend and camp owner will be here Sunday night).  Sorry your motor got fried.


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## akthor (Oct 5, 2012)

Hmmmm in the meantime might be awhile till I get a motor, get it in and get it working, since we still don't know for sure why it didn't work in the first place for sure.

I got this to help me save on my propane bill since I live in a fairly small place with a pretty open floor plan. I have always planned to only run it when I'm home. Since I work 10 - 14 hr shifts I just turn my heat down to like 55 when I'm not home.

In just running it to try and diagnose the auger the unit really throws out a lot of heat and it will really heat my place up pretty good I believe meaning my furnace won't need to run at all when I am home.

Since the stove works as it should in every way except for the auger would be ok for me to open the door and hand feed it until I get the auger fixed? If it gets cold enough when i'm home?


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## akthor (Oct 5, 2012)

The manuals are online. I'm just a total noob when it comes to pellet stoves and electrical stuff.

Had wood stoves and fireplaces my whole life tho.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 5, 2012)

akthor said:


> The manuals are online. I'm just a total noob when it comes to pellet stoves and electrical stuff.
> 
> Had wood stoves and fireplaces my whole life tho.


 
Yes the manuals are on line but do the ones on line match up with your Jan 2006 stove becomes the question.  I was reading the on-line manual and your little brick power supply isn't what the manual shows, just saying.

Hand feeding it isn't likely to work very well if at all that #2 light is likely going to pop up and it isn't exactly a safe thing to do.


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## Czech (Oct 5, 2012)

Look at the list of models that starts with T40-AC. The model you have will be marked like the dates are, scribed but not neccesarly marked with ink.


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## Czech (Oct 5, 2012)

Talk to Duane at aestechnical <Technical@magnumheat.com>


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## Czech (Oct 5, 2012)

This help at all?


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## DexterDay (Oct 5, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> Your stove can be run off of a battery during a power outage.



There should be a port in the back of this unit? Something to accept the power supply incoming to the stove. All models have it. Its just the DC models that have anything going to it? Unless it was replaced by the little black box we see? 

No ports at all, huh?


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## akthor (Oct 6, 2012)

No ports, just a big hole the cord comes in thru.


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## akthor (Oct 6, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> Yes the manuals are on line but do the ones on line match up with your Jan 2006 stove becomes the question. I was reading the on-line manual and your little brick power supply isn't what the manual shows, just saying.
> 
> Hand feeding it isn't likely to work very well if at all that #2 light is likely going to pop up and it isn't exactly a safe thing to do.


 
They have manuals for for 05', 07',08',10' so I assume mine must be the 05' one.


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## Stovensen (Oct 6, 2012)

The online store at Magnum has two versions of powersupplies for the DC-stoves. As I read it, the earlier stoves have the open pcb-version, and the newer stoves have the little black box. They both cost $ 108,-

https://www.americanenergysystems.com/wireharness.cfm


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## akthor (Oct 6, 2012)

Hmmmm mine was made in 2006 I wonder if mine was upgraded with the little black box?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 6, 2012)

Still need a gear motor and the wiring on that unit from the gear motor to the controller has to be checked for a loose connection. Check the voltage on the original power leads to the auger for something like 12 volts DC.

I've located a number of gear motors but we need to match it to the one in the stove.

Stovensen,

Glad to see you back on.

It is good to know that the change from what was in the manual was a manufactures change and not an ad hoc user change.

akthor,

Ask the guy you bought it from if he had it updated.


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## akthor (Oct 6, 2012)

Bought from a woman at work she has no idea she just knows it worked before I got it.

Funny on the label plate on the back it says must have outside air source and the professional installer that installed it for her did not have the air intake hooked up to the outside.

I will get the motor out tomorrow.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 6, 2012)

akthor said:


> Bought from a woman at work she has no idea she just knows it worked before I got it.
> 
> Funny on the label plate on the back it says must have outside air source and the professional installer that installed it for her did not have the air intake hooked up to the outside.
> 
> I will get the motor out tomorrow.


 

I wasn't going to bring up the professional installer thing. But yes the stove was never meant to be installed by other than a professional and IIRC not any professional installer either. We would have gotten around to the OAK part eventually.

ETA: Rule one on installing a stove is to read the manual over from start to finish several times before doing anything.  A lot of the issues that show up on here start with an incorrect installation.


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## Stovensen (Oct 7, 2012)

> Still need a gear motor and the wiring on that unit from the gear motor to the controller has to be checked for a loose connection. Check the voltage on the original power leads to the auger for something like 12 volts DC.
> 
> I've located a number of gear motors but we need to match it to the one in the stove.
> 
> ...


 
Thanks Smokey, Hearth.com is always a nice place to be.

Akthor, sorry to read that your motor got fried. Then again, the $ 300,- you paid for it is about half of what I paid for my Quest Plus in 2008... a ten years old stove with a worn out auger motor. Yes, both pellets and stoves are much more expensive around here
So, even if it should cost you around $ 100,- for a new auger motor, it's still a good deal IMHO.
I hope that your control board is ok. Have you tested the output for 12 V DC as suggested by Smokey?

Good luck
Bo


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## akthor (Oct 7, 2012)

This is the multimeter I have can you guys tell me how to set it up to test the output for 12 V DC as suggested by Smokey?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GB-INSTRUMENTS-GMT-312-ELECTRIC-MULTI-TEST-METER-/160883862477


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## MountainSean (Oct 7, 2012)

It has DCV on the right upper quadrant of the selector knob so it should be able to. Just don't use the millivolt setting on the upper left. To test for 12v DC I would use the 50 DCV and read the approriate line on the display for around 12.

(Please note I am not an electrician and the last time I used a Multi-meter on a dc setting was a bit over a decade ago. Might want to wait for confirmation.)


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## Stovensen (Oct 7, 2012)

MountainSean said:


> It has DCV on the right upper quadrant of the selector knob so it should be able to. Just don't use the millivolt setting on the upper left. To test for 12v DC I would use the 50 DCV and read the approriate line on the display for around 12.


 
Yes, the 50 DCV setting ( two clicks clockwise from the off-position ) is the one, but Mountainsean, I'm sure you mean: "Just don't use the milliamp ( mA ) setting on the upper left".
The DC mA setting should absolutely be avoided, since it most likely will fry your controlboard, or at least blow a fuse in the meter. Now you are warned.
If the control board is ok, the needle should move approximately to where i have drawn a black line on the scale. Maybe a little higher, since the little black box actually has an output voltage of 14 Volts DC.


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## akthor (Oct 7, 2012)

Ok jumped the vacuum sensor. Hooked up the multimeter as described above to wires (disconnected from the auger motor) turned on the stove.

The needle moves to where u pointed out on the dial. Then goes to 0, then back to the spot on the dial above and just repeats. Like pulses. Every 10 seconds.

Is that how the motor works a pulse at a time?


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## DexterDay (Oct 7, 2012)

Yeah. Shouldn't be constant power. Depending on heat level selected, will depend on how frequently it powers up.


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## akthor (Oct 7, 2012)

Hmmm ok any idea how to get the auger motor off? Gonna check the manual. But don't see how it comes off by looking at it.


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## DexterDay (Oct 7, 2012)

Should have to loosen a set-screw that is tightened on the shaft. It pretty much just dangles there on the Baby. It hits a bolt, thats the only thing keeping the auger from free spinning.

Loosen set screw at collar and the auger should slide back/out.


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## akthor (Oct 7, 2012)

So that's good then right my control board is ok?

Not having much luck figuring out how to get the motor off.



DexterDay said:


> Yeah. Shouldn't be constant power. Depending on heat level selected, will depend on how frequently it powers up.


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## akthor (Oct 7, 2012)

Ok I will try that.



DexterDay said:


> Should have to loosen a set-screw that is tightened on the shaft. It pretty much just dangles there on the Baby. It hits a bolt, thats the only thing keeping the auger from free spinning.
> 
> Loosen set screw at collar and the auger should slide back/out.


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## akthor (Oct 7, 2012)

Ok thoroughly confused now. I see no lock collar. Even watched this video: http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=YHuacwmGrDk&desktop_uri=/watch?v=YHuacwmGrDk

There is no collar with a nut or hole for an allen to reach a lock nut on either side between where the shaft comes out of the back of the hopper and into the gear housing or on the backside of the housing. I tried to take a picture. But mine does not look like the one in the video?


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## DexterDay (Oct 7, 2012)

Inside the stove?  Maybe??

PM member Czech, Jrsdws, or Don2222. They should be able to walk you step by step through the removal process.


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## akthor (Oct 7, 2012)

Cleaned out the pellets and this is what is there, there is a bolt going into the shaft you can't quite see it in the picture it's at about the 9 o clock if where the shaft goes into the back of the hopper is the clock face.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 7, 2012)

If that stove has a floating auger motor it will come off when you disconnect it from the auger.


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## akthor (Oct 7, 2012)

but where do I disconnect it from?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 7, 2012)

It should be that bolt going into the auger and against the auger motor's shaft a good number of DC auger motors have a slotted shaft and a bolt the goes from one side through the auger and into the other side.

Since you have a multimeter and now know how to read the auger motor voltage could you tell us what it does when there is no jumper on the vacuum switch?

We know that the auger motor is very likely fried what we don't know is if the rest of the system works without jumpers installed. If we know that everything works then the problem has to be either the auger motor, or the auger assembly.

Can you turn the auger motor and it in turn auger?


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## akthor (Oct 7, 2012)

I can only turn it as far as the stop bolt allows it to go. Can I take out the stop bolt to be able to turn the motor more so I could get at that bolt easier, it's kinda at an awkward angle?

I will do the multimeter thing without the jumper on vacuum sensor.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 7, 2012)

akthor said:


> I can only turn it as far as the stop bolt allows it to go. Can I take out the stop bolt to be able to turn the motor more so I could get at that bolt easier, it's kinda at an awkward angle?
> 
> I will do the multimeter thing without the jumper on vacuum sensor.


 
Thanks and if you can get the stop blot out without damaging anything so you can put it back ;-) ..


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## akthor (Oct 7, 2012)

Without the vacuum jumped no action on the multimeter. Without the jumper do I need to start a fire for the vacuum sensor to work?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 7, 2012)

akthor said:


> Without the vacuum jumped no action on the multimeter. Without the jumper do I need to start a fire for the vacuum sensor to work?


 
No as long as the stove doors are closed and the combustion blower starts, the vacuum switch should close and you should see those timed pulses.


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## DexterDay (Oct 7, 2012)

Remove the stop bolt so you can get it.... Its gonna be a small set screw.


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## akthor (Oct 7, 2012)

Even with the stop bolt removed I can only turn the motor so far, still a PITA to get at the bolt, it's like an 11mm bolt or the sae equivalent not a small set screw.

I did the dollar bill test on the door and ash clean out door, they are airtight I am pretty sure. The pellet hopper door isn't and wasn't before it only had two pieces of the flat stuff as like a cushion. Without like a latch on the ash door I don't see how you could get the pellet door airtight?


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## akthor (Oct 7, 2012)

Finally got it out here's the pics hopefully you can see the numbers on it ok?


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## akthor (Oct 7, 2012)

oops


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## akthor (Oct 7, 2012)

might help not upside down


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 7, 2012)

Here is the closest I've found so far https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=5-1741&catname=electric


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 7, 2012)

Now I have a question about the auger can you manually rotate that auger now that the auger motor has been removed?


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## akthor (Oct 7, 2012)

Holy! That's wayyyyyyy cheaper than what magnum is charging for a new motor. That will work?

Yes auger turns easily.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 7, 2012)

Ok now do you know how to use the ohm scales on that multimeter if so I want you to remove the wires on the vacuum switch and attach the probes from the multimeter to the vacuum switch and then having removed the end of the tube from the vacuum switch that goes to the barb on the stove from the barb on the stove and gently suck on the tube and tell us what the meter says when it is put on the ohm scale. By gently sucking on the tubing and then releasing it you should get a reading on the meter.

ETA: I'm looking for possible blockage and if the switch itself is defective.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 7, 2012)

akthor said:


> Holy! That's wayyyyyyy cheaper than what magnum is charging for a new motor. That will work?
> 
> Yes auger turns easily.


 
I have to do a bit more checking but that motor may do the trick.


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## akthor (Oct 7, 2012)

With meter on the same setting? Do I turn on the stove?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 7, 2012)

akthor said:


> With meter on the same setting? Do I turn on the stove?


 
No, on the ohm setting (little horseshoe symbol) and do not start the stove.

ETA: I'm running out of steam so I'm out of here until tomorrow.


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## akthor (Oct 7, 2012)

Me too thanks for all the help. 

I will do the ohms thing with the vacuum switch in the AM


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## Stovensen (Oct 8, 2012)

The motor doesn't look really fried from where I sit. Akthor, if you have a charger for car batteries ( 12 V DC ), you have a power source with the right specs to perform a perfect function test.
But safety first... we don't want to fry your charger: Automotive chargers normally have a resettable fuse ( short circuit protection ) on the front panel. If the copper windings inside your motor are totally melted together, the charger is shorted when its voltage is applied to the motor. This short circuit may damage the charger, so before any testing, please check that the charger has some sort of protection.
Otherwise the test goes like this: Simply connect the red cable from the charger to the motor terminal with the red dot and the black cable to the other terminal. If we are lucky the motor should spin and continue to do so, without any smoke.
This function test is much better than testing with an ohmmeter, besides your ohmmeter is not capable of testing in the low ohmic range.
I can't wait to hear the verdict

So the vacuum switch must have been the culprit form the first place? Or perhaps a combination of a faulty vacuum switch and some corroded connections... the photo of especially the hopper shows signs of severe corrosion. Maybe it was stored in a damp place before Akthor bought it?

Good luck
Bo


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## akthor (Oct 8, 2012)

I don't have a charger but I have a portable jumper/power box thing. Basically a car battery with jumper cables.


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## Stovensen (Oct 8, 2012)

akthor said:


> I don't have a charger but I have a portable jumper/power box thing. Basically a car battery with jumper cables.


 
That should work as well, only beware of one thing... if the motor is shorted in its windings, some sparks will fly when the connection is established. Take care!
Let's hope that the motor just spins and spins. The test takes five minutes or so. Looking forward to hear your result.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 8, 2012)

I doubt of the vacuum switch is shot, they are very reliable but the tubing could be cracked or barbs/tubing could have ash in them or if there are two ports or more than two connection points on the switch and the wrong ones are being used.  Corrosion on the connections is also a possibility as well, however it is possible it  could be a bad vacuum switch.

If the stove worked just before its tumble I'd be tempted to rule out corrosion and look towards ash having been  loosened up and deposited in a "bad" place or everything actually works and there is too much air getting into the firebox somehow and the switch just isn't seeing what it needs to see.


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## Czech (Oct 8, 2012)

On pg 36 of the manual, it talks about ignitor replacement and actually shows a picture of a DC model's guts. It shows the auger on the left of this picture also. Looks like a couple of nuts holding it on.


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## akthor (Oct 8, 2012)

ok hooked up the jump box and motor turns. So I guess next I will do the Ohm thing with the vac switch.

Smokey if that motor you linked to works i would still buy one for backup


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## DexterDay (Oct 8, 2012)

Make sure the rubber hose is free of cracks, dry-rot, holes, etc. Maybe cut 1/2" off of each end. Blow out the hose (remove end from vacuum switch and blow through the hose, towards the stove. So if the barb is plugged with ash, this will blow it free.

If the auger spins outside the auger flight, then try it back inside the stove. Its possible that something may be bent from when it tipped? If that checks out? Then vac switch is prob the culprit.


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## akthor (Oct 8, 2012)

Fixed it yay!

Put the auger motor back in, it definitely didn't spin before because it makes a very distinct and audible noise when the motor clicks on and spins. So put in back in, kept the vac jumped and yes the motor pulses on and off and if I hold the auger button down it stays on like it should to prime the auger.

So undid the the jumper hooked back up the vac and nothing. So I got thinking and the TWO wires that go to the vac sensor are gray, no black stripe or anything to designate + or - so I think maybe even so there is a positive and negative? So I get down where I can look underneath the vac and what do I see? THREE spades that wires can hook to and not TWO. Even tho I only got two wires to hook to it? So I'm like WTF? So I had been hooking it up to the spades on the right and left so I unhooked the left and hooked to the one facing the BACK of the stove and VIOLA it works!

I have no idea why it didn't work in the beginning or why it didn't work when I first jumped the VAC. Something was wrong somewhere. Maybe a bad connection and with the plugging and unplugging of things it's good now. I really think the motor was vapor locked or sumthin cuz the first couple of times I touched the jumper box to it to test it nothing happened it was till like the 3rd or 4th touch that there was a little crackle of sparks and the motor started working.

And I was obviously getting the 2nd blinks light cuz I hooked the vac sensor back up wrong after jumping it.

Now I just need to run it for a few hours and make sure all is good which I will do later when it cools off outside.

I can't thank you all enough for your time and patience with me and for all your help. Anytime you are in my area let me know the beers are on me.


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## DexterDay (Oct 8, 2012)

If the glass was missing when you tried it, it wouldn't have had any vacuum. Or if you had the door open, ash pan, etc..

Your still gonna need to mod the air wash. And possibly the pot. But buying the High CFM combustion blower and the pellet pot will cure the burn issues and no "Mod's" are needed. 

Glad its working. Looking forward to some burning pics! !


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 8, 2012)

Glad you ran it down and now you know a whole lot about your stove than you did to begin with.

I'd order one of those motors since your actual voltage going to the motor from your system is likely close to the 14 that your power supply puts out and that going to a 12 volt motor that is nominally 1.6 rpm is likely actually going to run at 1.8+ which is close enough. Olso considering where you are I'd look into setting up a battery back up for the stove.

I'll leave you with a warning since the stove motors all work on dc and can be reversed you really need to get that stove OAKed or you could inadvertently end up using your air intake as an exhaust (and people get a bit miffed at me when I mention the OAK is considered to be part of the venting and must be metal) which isn't a good thing at all.

One other thing on here if there is no picture it never happened.

Enjoy the heat and drop in anytime and lend a helping hand.


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## akthor (Oct 8, 2012)

No I didn't try until I got the glass in and seals replaced.

Is there a source for a new blower motor besides Magnum? Like with the auger motor?

A new blower motor thru them is quite pricey. But they also wanted over $100 for the auger motor.


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## akthor (Oct 8, 2012)

What is OAK?

My outside air intake is made of metal.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 8, 2012)

There are sources for every motor that aren't from Magnum.  There are after market parts for everything on that stove except for the control board and with enough need I'm sure someone could make one of them.

There are several folks on here that run with their own control boards. 

It isn't something to lightly get into because the stoves safety certifications aren't with the stove modified in that manner.

Forum member Snowy Rivers runs a couple of old Whitfield stoves using her own control design and build, she burns hazelnut shells in them.  The same simple controller using off the shelf parts for both stoves.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 8, 2012)

akthor said:


> What is OAK?
> 
> My outside air intake is made of metal.


 
OAK is Outside Air (Intake) Kit it is mandatory for your stove. A lot of folks that got stoves that need them installed don't and it can lead to burn issues.

ETA: It is a flexible metal tube that is sealed to the stoves air intake on one end and goes outside to terminate in the lovely Maine air in your case on the other end.  Usually the kit has the tubing, clamps and outside wind and critter shield.


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## akthor (Oct 8, 2012)

Which way opens and closes the fresh air vent?


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## akthor (Oct 8, 2012)

I made my OAK with a dryer vent kit and a 3" to 4" adapter also made of metal.

Got a good cheap source for the high CFM blower fan? I would replace the one that blows heat into the room since its a bit loud, these look like big PC fans and I know you can get quieter ones in those too.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 8, 2012)

akthor said:


> Which way opens and closes the fresh air vent?


 
Are you asking about the damper setting?   The air vent needs to always be open except during the non burn season.


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## akthor (Oct 8, 2012)

Yes I can't really tell which way is open or close?


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## subsailor (Oct 8, 2012)

Glad to see all the hard work paid off. Congrats.


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## akthor (Oct 8, 2012)

Also is there a place with pics of what the fire should look like?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 8, 2012)

Your fire should have a blue base and be very bright a brilliant yellow almost white at the top without red and orange in it.

The manual should provide a clue as to which direction opens the damper (usually pulling out if it is a pull rod if it is a left to right slider it could be either way).  You'll know the redder and higher the flame gets the more closed down the damper is.


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## akthor (Oct 8, 2012)

Here's pics of my stove installed and the fire. With the lights off you can't see the window insert I built. I can finally get the tools off my bar!


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## akthor (Oct 8, 2012)

Figured out the air damper.

Do you have a source for the fans Smokey?


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## Stovensen (Oct 8, 2012)

Congratulations with your stove, Akthor. It looks really nice and cozy at your place. I'm sure those speakers sound as good as they look. JBL?


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## akthor (Oct 8, 2012)

Super rare Danish Cerwin Vega 1215 MK II's brought to the USA by a serviceman who was stationed in Germany. Vintage house shakers each speaker has a front facing 12" woofer and a 15" woofer that faces the floor, two 5" mids and a tweet. They sound like you are at the concert


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 8, 2012)

Well if you have the numbers from the plates on the fans you can use Google to sometimes find places that have them.

Basically with the voltage, current, rpm and fan size or cfm you can locate equivalent units.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 8, 2012)

Dayton, CSH, Fasco, and Smith all make motors in addition searching on blower and or motor type will get you page upon page in Google to look at.

I don't service stoves other than my own and I fequently use the surplus center and grainger to find parts the customer service folks at grainger can match up a lot of items with equivalents, just like the auto parts folks.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 8, 2012)

akthor said:


> Here's pics of my stove installed and the fire. With the lights off you can't see the window insert I built. I can finally get the tools off my bar!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Much much better, it has fire.


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## DexterDay (Oct 8, 2012)

If the pellets start building up (piling up) and not burning completely.  Then you know you need to open the damper more.

Did you already do any of the Mods? If you didnt, then the damper could be wide open and its still not gonna be good enough. 

There should be sparks flying almost constantly. You dont want whole pellets popping out. But you want a blue base with dancing pellets (slightly jiggling).


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## akthor (Oct 8, 2012)

I was only able to run it for about an hour till it made it too warm in here.

I did the pot and the air wash mods.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 8, 2012)

I believe he already mentioned having taken the time to do some mods.

The reason folks harp on doing the mods on the baby is that it has a reputation for having hopper fires due to backup in the burn pot and right up the ole pellet chute that the mods go a very long ways towards preventing.


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## akthor (Oct 8, 2012)

Dexter I was searching for info on the high CFM blower fan to see if I could find a cheaper alternative like Smokey found for the auger motor and saw you had posted in a thread about it. Do you have any specs or info on it?


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## DexterDay (Oct 8, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> I believe he already mentioned having taken the time to do some mods.
> 
> The reason folks harp on doing the mods on the baby is that it has a reputation for having hopper fires due to backup in the burn pot and right up the ole pellet chute that the mods go a very long ways towards preventing.



Yep.... Unless you like stirring the pot and/or removing (scooping into ash pan) pellets, every 4-8 hrs!

The mods are a necessary evil. 

Magnum (AES) has the Higher CFM combustion blower for the Baby Countryside now. This eliminates a lot of headache.

But for those that dont have the Higher CFM blower,  stealing some air from the air wash and plugging a few holes up high in the pot, prodive the same effect. More air... This stove burns great. Provided it gets the proper air (well, any stove). Its all about having the proper fuel/air ratio.


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## DexterDay (Oct 8, 2012)

No specs. Other than my buddy was gonna buy one. 

Forum member Jrsdws bought one for his Baby. He got it straight from AES though. 

PM him and ask for the specs? I think its a 105 CFM, as opposed to the 75-80 CFM thats in it now. But you will need RPM, amp, etc.


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## akthor (Oct 9, 2012)

So I don't have as active and lively of a burn as I think I can get. No danger of the pot filling up with pellets but I don't have " dancing pellets" or the ash blowing out of the pot, especially at 1 or 2 speeds.

I notice the holes in my pot on the bottom are very tiny, would it help to make them a little bigger? I covered the top two rows of holes on it but should I try 3?  

Also on the air wash I left about 1/2" uncovered is that too much?

Finally looking at maybe getting the higher CFM blower, but I'm confused by exactly which blower I need? If you look at this list:

http://cornandpelletstoves.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=77&Itemid=89

Which blower am I looking for?

And if I'm looking at this right why in the hell is the baby countryside AC blower $115 and the baby countryside DC one $300!?!?!!?!??!


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 9, 2012)

The RP2025 or RP2027 you want the highest cfm of the 2 you need the ones for DC.

Would you please post a picture of the burn pot showing the sides and bottom along with a picture of it in the receptacle it sits in, I want to see if there is an gaps around the burn pot.

ETA: The dance is a wiggle or pellets turning around in the pot and there should be sparks exiting the burn pot.


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## akthor (Oct 9, 2012)

Also seems I can perhaps replace the fan blades? Is this an option to get higher CFM?

https://www.americanenergysystems.com/fanblades.cfm


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## akthor (Oct 9, 2012)

Stove is on right now but the pot sits very tightly no gaps. I have two pots that are the same give me a sec I will take pics of the one not in the stove.

So to replace the blower $300? More than twice what the AC blower costs? That seems outrageous. Of course they also want over$100 for the auger motor you found for $18


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## DexterDay (Oct 9, 2012)

akthor said:


> Also seems I can perhaps replace the fan blades? Is this an option to get higher CFM?
> 
> https://www.americanenergysystems.com/fanblades.cfm



Yes. Its only a small increase. But an increase.

As for your burn. The Baby Countrysides combustion blower is Single speed. So it runs all out on level 1 through 5. So a bad burn on 1 will mean a very bad burn on 5.  Thats why this unit has a damper. 

Is your damper wide open? How much of your air wash is plugged? How many rows of holes on the pot is plugged? (And is it the front and back?)


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## DexterDay (Oct 9, 2012)

IIRC, the stainless pot has small gaps on the 4 corners.


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## akthor (Oct 9, 2012)

This is the pot I have.


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## jrsdws (Oct 9, 2012)

The blade replacement option has been discontinued by AES.  They said it was stressing the smaller blower motors too much, thus the new high output cumbustion blower.


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## akthor (Oct 9, 2012)

Burns much better on 3 and 4 than on 1 and 2.

Top two rows are covered front and back.

So if I can get in there and pull info or number off the fan think I can find a suitable upgrade at a decent price like the auger motor?

The upgraded fan blade is like $25, worth trying?


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## akthor (Oct 9, 2012)

They still show the part available on the website?

I'm sorry but I am not paying $300 for their blower upgrade, that's f@cking ridiculous! Especially since they sell the auger motor at more than 5 times the price you can find it elsewhere. I have to believe they are doing the same with the blower.



jrsdws said:


> The blade replacement option has been discontinued by AES.  They said it was stressing the smaller blower motors too much, thus the new high output cumbustion blower.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 9, 2012)

akthor said:


> Burns much better on 3 and 4 than on 1 and 2.
> 
> Top two rows are covered front and back.
> 
> ...


 
Information and a search should find something.

Start by also filling the number 2 and 4 holes (every other hole) in row 3 both front and back.


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## jrsdws (Oct 9, 2012)

Yeah I tried the blade replacement route too but that was what they told me.  Here are a couple of pictures of my cast iron pot after some modifications.  The hole size and placement are different than on your corn pot, but you can use this as a starting point.  The whole idea essentially is to try to direct as much air through the BOTTOM of that burn pot.  The holes up the sides are for helping burn corn completely.
I also still have a piece of aluminum tape over the air wash slot with some holes punched in it.  The glass stays clean enough for me and this makes a big difference in the amount of air going into burn pot.  Another common air leak is the ash pan drawer.  I added gasket material there and again it made a big difference.  You can simply try duct tape over it temporarily to see if it helps.  For temporary pot mods use that aluminum foil tape.  It won't last a long time but you'll be able to see the results.  I used stove mortar on this pot so it's semi-permanent yet reversable.


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## DexterDay (Oct 9, 2012)

Plug every other hole on 3rd row as Smokey suggested, or steal more air wash air. Thats gonna be a big contributor also. IMO.

Prob get just as much air from the air wash, as the pot holes.


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## akthor (Oct 9, 2012)

Will do with the air wash i will cover the whole thing and poke holes, how big and how many holes did you make?

I bought stove cement for a more permanent modification to the pot once I find what works with the tape.

I replaced all the door seals already and have done the dollar bill test, all good with the door and ash pan door. I can't seem to do the same with the pellet hopper door due to hinge placement on it? What have you done with your pellet hopper door?


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## DexterDay (Oct 9, 2012)

Just leave a couple small holes in the center of the foil. About 3 or 4 holes, made with a 1/4" drill bit. This will be enough to keep the glass clean in the middle. A trade off for a good burn (dirty glass). Just needs cleaned more often. 

As for the holes. The cement will work in the cast pot because it is very thick and it has something to grab hold. But the stainless pot will probably not hold the cement very well. Shouldn't need more than the top 2 rows though.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 9, 2012)

Since we appear to be in air leak finding mode make certain that the joints on the auger feed tube that goes up to the drop chute is sealed (rtv) and that your auger flight cover is sealed.

Can you post a picture of the hooper lid showing the hinges.


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## DexterDay (Oct 9, 2012)

There is also a gasket for the hopper, under the main body of the stove. Not the lid itself. The upper, inner perimeter. If that makes sense? 

The body needs removed (pulled off/up) and its a 1/2" or 5/8" wide flat or tape gasket. 

Does the Ash pan seal tight? Does the dollar pull easily?  Or is there decent resistance?


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## akthor (Oct 9, 2012)

I revealed all the seams in the hopper with rtv. Figured I might as well while it was empty. 

I am at work but I will post a pic of the hopper lid and show you what I mean tomorrow.

The ash pan door is very tight and you barely if any at all are able to pull a dollar bill thru.


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## DexterDay (Oct 9, 2012)

There is a gasket under the body of the stove. If you were to draw an outline on top of the stove, of the actual hopper size/dimensions. Then the gasket goes around the top of that.

It may seem hard to understand.

The hoper lid wont seal any tighter than it does now. Its not a locking hopper. But the gasket underneath will effect the burn, if its mucked up.

My buddy got a new stove that had a bad gasket from the factory. Just a thought to check it?


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## akthor (Oct 10, 2012)

So you can see in the pic the lip that goes around the inside of the pellet hopper door opening. Originally there was just two pieces about 2" long on the long lip on the opposite side of the hinge. I tried putting new flat gasket all around the lip but since the hinge is where it's at it actually made the door not close all the way so I took the side pieces off and left the long piece on but even this doesn't do much for making the door airtight.


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## akthor (Oct 10, 2012)

pic might help


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## DexterDay (Oct 10, 2012)

That gasket aint gonna do much. Its the gasket under the top, thats gonna do something. Its under the inner perimeter.

Cant describe it any better. But if you look at the stove, make a dotted line around the very top of the stove. Under your dotted line, is where the gasket is. The door will not seal fully. Was never intended too.

Some units they seal everything up on. On others, its not sealed or thought of at all. 

My Quadrafire Classic Bay has ZERO sealing on the hopper lid. No sort of gasket. The whole top of the stove lifts up and has no gasket. And this stove has a Very Violent Burn. Lots of leaks through the auger because of this (when pellets are low) and 3 large pieces of glass, means lots of air wash, plus a hole from the thermocouple lead coming into the firebox (over 1/2" in diameter). All of these points are burn pot bypasses and the stove still burns great. If I were to plug my air wash, seal my hopper and lid, and seal the T/C hole, the pellets wouldnt even drop in the pot. They would come out of the chute and be blasted up by air. Way to much air.

My point is, stoves are designed to run with certain leaks. Some stoves have more leaks than others. Sealing as much as you can on that stove will help with the burn. But only so much you can do with the hopper lid. Keeping the hopper as full as you can will help some. The more pellets you have in the hopper, the harder the stove will have to pull through the auger chute. 

Take the body of the stove off and replace the upper gasket. Then, if the burn is still slow. Close off some more holes. But 3 rows front and back seems excessive (if you need to do them all). After 2 rows, my buddies stove needs the damper closed to reduce air to the pot.


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## akthor (Oct 10, 2012)

Heres a video of my fire how does it look?

http://s1073.photobucket.com/albums/w384/thor5734/


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 10, 2012)

That doesn't look too bad, I wouldn't use a flat gasket for the lid if any.  You need something that can be compressed quite a bit using very little weight when there isn't a latching system.

The gasket dexter is talking about seals the rim of the hopper to the shove shell.


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## DexterDay (Oct 10, 2012)

That burn isnt bad. But we need to know, is how long it was burning, on what level, and where was your damper? 

If the stove had been running for 5 hrs and it had no build up,  on level 3 and damper is wide open. Then thats not bad.

But if the stove just started, on level 2, and damper is wide open, is different.

The difference is how long it burned and do you have to intervene by stirring the pot and/or removing pellets?


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## akthor (Oct 10, 2012)

Stove was running for about 1/2 hr on level 2 with damper 1/2 open. Hasn't been cold enough yet to run it 4 or 5 hours. So if it looks like that after a few hours that's pretty good?


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## DexterDay (Oct 10, 2012)

Depends... I am on bag 5 now. Been burning off and on (whenever stove says to start/on stat) for a couple weeks. 

Have not touched my Quad. Been through 5 bags and plan to go at least 5 more before I clean the glass. Have yet to even pull the ash dump on the bottom of the pot. Opened the door and felt in the pot. Only a couple little chunks  So I will let it go......

So a 1/2 hr is good. But hours on end are better. Are you always burning with the damper closed 1/2 way?  

Just wondering? If it starts to build up after several hours. Then more air is needed. Its gonna take time. There is a learning curve with anything you do. So take your time. Find out what pellet it likes (what brand are you burning)?


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