# Covered Woodpiles



## woodjack (Jan 4, 2012)

I used to be in the "Don't cover it unless you're going to use it soon" camp. One day late last summer I'm looking at my six, moist, cords of wood that never seemed to get a chance to dry (I live in the NY summer rain forest). I covered everything in September and it was a great move. The moss and mushrooms have turned crispy and all my wood is bone dry and burning bright.


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## k9brain (Jan 4, 2012)

Sweet.  I just covered my wood piles after a year of worrying.  Feels good knowing they're dry.


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## pen (Jan 4, 2012)

After getting a moisture meter a few weeks back and measuring the moisture of wood pieces that were exposed to rain at the ends of the piles versus those that were under complete coverage, I'm in the keep it covered crowd for the first time.  I was amazed how much more moisture those exposed pieces had irregardless of size or shape.  

pen


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## Catspaw (Jan 4, 2012)

If i didn't cover my wood, I think I'd have several large piles of compost - and a very cold house!

- Rich


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## Jaugust124 (Jan 4, 2012)

A quick question here about covering wood.  I am several years ahead and have NOT covered the wood I will be using next year, the year after, and so on.  Is this a mistake?
It is all stacked in single rows.


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## billb3 (Jan 4, 2012)

oak seems to stand up pretty good left out in the weather, but I have a small (1/5 cord) stack of birch and cherry that was left out in the woods where I cut it up hoping to have a road to get to it by now and it is rotten. To be fair it has been there since 2004, but it is not even good for a bonfire. I have some hard maple near that that is three years old and I'm going to have to get that up the hill with multiple trips with the wheel barrow or some other somehow.


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## woodjack (Jan 4, 2012)

Jaugust124 said:
			
		

> A quick question here about covering wood.  I am several years ahead and have NOT covered the wood I will be using next year, the year after, and so on.  Is this a mistake?
> It is all stacked in single rows.



My wood doesn't get a lot of sun and fungus was growing on it. It was going to rot away. Now, it's nice and dry, begging to be burned. I can tell you that from now on I'm going to keep most of my wood covered most of the year.


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## woodjack (Jan 4, 2012)

billb3 said:
			
		

> I have some hard maple near that that is three years old and I'm going to have to get that up the hill with multiple trips with the wheel barrow or some other somehow.



As Thoreau said, "that wood will heat you twice."


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## steeltowninwv (Jan 4, 2012)

im still undecided on covering or not covering...but i did have about 3 cords that i was certain needed covered{punky}...so i ordered firewood tarps from maynards.....i was trying to figure out the best way to keep the tarp secure..here is what i did...i went to lowes and bout some eye screws......i layed the tarp out and where i had a grommet i screwed an eye bolt in about a foot and a half down ..right into a piece of wood..then took a cable tie and ran from the eye hook to the grommet...has worked well so far.


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## CTYank (Jan 4, 2012)

It's funny (to me) how some will tell you that rain falling on uncovered stacks will evaporate shortly, ASSUMING that warm sunny days will not drive water back into the wood. To me, a silly presumption. Especially with summer/fall like the last in the NE.

Lumber manufacturers are strongly advised in professional guides to keep lumber being air-dried covered from rain and protected from splashing. Enough said for me.


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## Nixon (Jan 4, 2012)

I always cover my stacks as soon I'm finished making them . I'm fortunate to have an almost endless supply of cover sheets from doing pole buildings . I've always thought it better to cover the wood and be done with it .


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## woodjack (Jan 4, 2012)

I cover my stacks with old aluminum roofing, tarps, 6 mil plastic sheets, plexiglass . . . whatever I could get. I find that even if it's not 100% water proof (i.e. screw holes in aluminum roofing), as long the wood is covered, it's vastly better off. Tarps over something rigid on the wood works particularly well. It gets more air and has a double layer of protection.
For stuff that I'm going to burn soon I (try) to make sure it stays completely dry.


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## steeltowninwv (Jan 4, 2012)

i will have to admit...if i had the good stuff to cover my wood piles i probably would....but man if i bought tarps for all the wood...that wouldnt be cheap...im gonna do some asking around and try to get some materials to cover the wood with...at least next years wood...the year after that can wait...


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## woodjack (Jan 4, 2012)

steeltowninwv said:
			
		

> i will have to admit...if i had the good stuff to cover my wood piles i probably would....but man if i bought tarps for all the wood...that wouldnt be cheap...im gonna do some asking around and try to get some materials to cover the wood with...at least next years wood...the year after that can wait...



It may be cheaper to buy a 6mil (or 4mil) plastic roll. Also, more waterproof than tarps . . . but rips easier in the wind. Put that over some scrap wood or anything rigid and you'll be in great shape. I use rocks to hold everything down.


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## Lumber-Jack (Jan 4, 2012)

Building supply stores and places where they sell lumber generally throw the used lumber tarps in the garbage when they are done with them. If you ask them they'll usually give them away to people rather than throwing them in the garbage.  They can be cut to size, are UV and wind resitant, and last for years, and the best part is they are free.


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## Grannyknot (Jan 4, 2012)

Last winter I split up a maple log, stacked it neatly, and covered it with a waterproof tarp for the entire year.  Started burning it last month and it's sizzling and blowing bubbles out the ends like I just cut it.
I asked my neighbor and he said if you plan on burning in December, don't cover until October.  He has a theory that when the moisture evaporates from the wood, it gets trapped under the tarp and drips back down on to the wood, not to mention the amount of humidity that a waterproof tarp can retain.  Just one mans theory, but definately not the wood burning gospel.


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## firefighterjake (Jan 4, 2012)

Jaugust124 said:
			
		

> A quick question here about covering wood.  I am several years ahead and have NOT covered the wood I will be using next year, the year after, and so on.  Is this a mistake?
> It is all stacked in single rows.



Not an issue . . . I don't cover the wood I have outside seasoning in the first year . . . In Year 2 it goes into the woodshed to season at a slower pace . . . And in Year 3 it meets its maker. No issues.


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## Brewmonster (Jan 4, 2012)

My wood is stacked on pallets, then I put more pallets on top, turned ninety degrees, so they give an overhang of four inches on either side, then cover. I used to use 4mil poly but have switched to recycled billboard material. More expensive but much more durable. This arrangement sheds almost all the rain and allows good air circulation. I'm lucky that my workplace generates a constant supply of pallets.


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## ansehnlich1 (Jan 4, 2012)

I cover the tops of my woodpiles with rubber roofing material as soon as I get 'em stacked and they stay covered for 2, 3, or 4 years until ready to burn. Just the tops though, not down the sides. I cut 24 inch strips and roll 'em right out across the piles, my splits are cut to around 20 inches in length. Throw cement block or some locust or cedar rounds on top to hold the rubber down and that's how my piles roll


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## woodjack (Jan 5, 2012)

ansehnlich1 said:
			
		

> I cover the tops of my woodpiles with rubber roofing material as soon as I get 'em stacked and they stay covered for 2, 3, or 4 years until ready to burn. Just the tops though, not down the sides. I cut 24 inch strips and roll 'em right out across the piles, my splits are cut to around 20 inches in length. Throw cement block or some locust or cedar rounds on top to hold the rubber down and that's how my piles roll



I like that idea.


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## Backwoods Savage (Jan 5, 2012)

I still like old galvanized roofing for covering. I split and stack in spring and never cover until late fall or early winter. Then cover the top only. This has worked well for us for many, many moons. Last year we put up a new barn so in October I move 3 cord of wood into the barn and that is what we use for the winter's heat.


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## coverdome (Jan 5, 2012)

Cover my stacks with a  20 -22 inch wide strip of 6 mil plastic.  Put one or two rows of wood pieces on top of plastic 
to keep in place and keep the sun from degrading it.


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## woodjack (Jan 5, 2012)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> I still like old galvanized roofing for covering. I split and stack in spring and never cover until late fall or early winter. Then cover the top only. This has worked well for us for many, many moons. Last year we put up a new barn so in October I move 3 cord of wood into the barn and that is what we use for the winter's heat.



That sounds like a perfect system. 
Only thing for me is, I'm in the forest, so I have to cover the piles before the leaves fall. They act like a big sponge.


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## Backwoods Savage (Jan 6, 2012)

No problem. Just go out on Labor Day and cover.  ;-)

EDIT:  We live in the woods too but don't have problems with the leaves.


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## hobbyheater (Jan 10, 2012)

woodjack said:
			
		

> I used to be in the "Don't cover it unless you're going to use it soon" camp. One day late last summer I'm looking at my six, moist, cords of wood that never seemed to get a chance to dry (I live in the NY summer rain forest). I covered everything in September and it was a great move. The moss and mushrooms have turned crispy and all my wood is bone dry and burning bright.


We live on rainy Northern Vancouver Island , here wood that is not covered just rots! Carbon Liberator and Brewmonster have shown the correct way to cover with Traps or Plastic. If the covers go all the way to the ground the moisture can not escape , the open ends on these piles allows the wind to blow through taking the moisture with it.


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## woodjack (Jan 10, 2012)

Do you cover all year round?


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## hobbyheater (Jan 10, 2012)

woodjack said:
			
		

> Do you cover all year round?



Yes we cover all year round ,it can rain nearly as much in the summer as in the winter.


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## blacktail (Jan 10, 2012)

My wood's covered on top. No reason to let it get rained on.


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## Kaptain (Jan 10, 2012)

I didn't cover mine this year but I'm going to for now on - just the tops of course... With trees over my stacks there is a ton of debri falling into them over time.


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## Trktrd (Jan 10, 2012)

I have my stacks perpendicular to the prevailing wind in my area, so if I cover the tops the sides will still get soaked. Do I cover the entire stack then?


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## hobbyheater (Jan 10, 2012)

Trktrd said:
			
		

> I have my stacks perpendicular to the prevailing wind in my area, so if I cover the tops the sides will still get soaked. Do I cover the entire stack then?



Completly covering the stack  creats a mini rain forest and the mosture from the wood can never escape :exclaim:


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## ironworker (Jan 10, 2012)

I don't cover till October, I believe that when the wood gets rained on and gets wet it wicks the moisture out from the middle of the splits and speeds the seasoning process.


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## stefan66 (Jan 10, 2012)

I believe that when the wood gets rained on and gets wet it wicks the moisture out from the middle of the splits and speeds the seasoning process.[/quote]


Hmmmm I gues I should be hosing down my woodpile once in a while on those long hot breezy summer days???


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## Backwoods Savage (Jan 10, 2012)

How on earth would water help to wick water out of wood?


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## Gomez (Jan 11, 2012)

Well, it may be like priming a pump?


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## BucksCounty (Jan 11, 2012)

I covered all the wood I thought I would use this year in September and it definitely makes a difference.  This is a practice I will be using every year.  Now, to build a woodshed...maybe a Spring project.


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## JotulOwner (Jan 11, 2012)

Jaugust124 said:
			
		

> A quick question here about covering wood.  I am several years ahead and have NOT covered the wood I will be using next year, the year after, and so on.  Is this a mistake?
> It is all stacked in single rows.



IMO, single rows season better than covered piles. I stack in 4x8 foot platforms, cover them with a painted sheet of plywood to prevent water from getting into the middle of the pile and I leave the sides exposed for air flow. But If I had the space, I would probably do it your way since I like the idea of letting the rain, air and sun weather and season the wood.


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## ScotO (Jan 11, 2012)

ansehnlich1 said:
			
		

> I cover the tops of my woodpiles with rubber roofing material as soon as I get 'em stacked and they stay covered for 2, 3, or 4 years until ready to burn. Just the tops though, not down the sides. I cut 24 inch strips and roll 'em right out across the piles, my splits are cut to around 20 inches in length. Throw cement block or some locust or cedar rounds on top to hold the rubber down and that's how my piles roll


this is by far the best method of covering your woodpile OTHER THAN the woodshed.  We have a local building demolition company that has a thrift/antique store, and the wife was begging to go down and look for french doors to refurbish for our living room remodel.  I saw some woodstoves out in the back lot and quickly made my way over to look at them.  All old smokedragons, DARN IT!  But on my way back across the lot I saw stacks of rubber roof remnants, brand new, neatly folded with the dimensions written on the top.  two were 14' x 40' which would just about cover my woodpile, I think they wanted 20 bucks each.....that's it I'm going back down there tomorrow to get them!!  Once I get the woodshed built this summer I will no longer need them but I am tired of dealing with leaky tarps!!


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## woodjack (Jan 11, 2012)

Okay, covering the wood in September makes it better to burn now.
Here's the question. Is it better to expose our wood to the elements from June-September, or keep it covered?


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## woodjack (Jan 11, 2012)

Scotty Overkill said:
			
		

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Have you tried 6 mil plastic rolls. 25' long x 10' wide. Sometimes I use them over tarps or aluminum roofing to waterproof it. I think it's a  cheaper than what you're looking at. It's also light, small and easy to store.

Part of the wood burning experience for me is spending as little as possible. . . Not being a consumerist. My wood is free, my pallets are free, my alum roof is torn down from my house, I use newspaper and kindling instead of firestarters, etc.


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## ScotO (Jan 11, 2012)

woodjack said:
			
		

> Okay, covering the wood in September makes it better to burn now.
> Here's the question. Is it better to expose our wood to the elements from June-September, or keep it covered?


doesn't hurt to keep them covered all year.....just the tops!


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## ScotO (Jan 11, 2012)

i'm not crazy about the plastic, it seems to rip and degrade.....but I am going to be able to pick those rubber roof remnants up for 40 bucks, and that is well worth having my 23 cords of C/S/S firewood stay dry......I have a lot of blood, sweat, and tears in that woodpile, it's like an extention of my family.......


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## Jaugust124 (Jan 11, 2012)

JotulOwner said:
			
		

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2010 was my first year c/s/s and I stacked most of my wood on pallets, about 10 or 11.  Digging into the palleted piles this year, some of the wood towards the center of the pallets is still not as seasoned as I would like, even though it has been stacked since the summer/fall of 2010.  I checked the moisture content on several pieces after resplitting and some were in the 25%-29% range.  
This wood was covered with plastic in the winter of 2010/11 and then uncovered spring through fall of 2011.  I think the moisture from the rain got down into the center of the pallets and never really dried out. (Irene in late August did not help) I have some mossy growth on my wood from the dampness and the fact that it is in a somewhat shady area.  I will not be stacking my wood tightly on pallets again.  Single rows with space in between for me.  I also bought a couple rolls of plastic and I plan on covering the tops of my wood piles the first chance I get.  I was going to leave next years and the following years uncovered, but I have since changed my mind.


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## ScotO (Jan 11, 2012)

Jaugust124 said:
			
		

> * This wood was covered with plastic in the winter of 2010/11 and then uncovered spring through fall of 2011.  I think the moisture from the rain got down into the center of the pallets and never really dried out. (Irene in late August did not help) I have some mossy growth on my wood from the dampness and the fact that it is in a somewhat shady area. *


exactly the reason I keep the tops covered all year long.  stacking them tightly in cubes (full cords, etc) is not near the problem as having a pile of rain infiltrate the stack.  And this past year in central PA we got around 56 inches of rain.  I'm paying for that rain now due to a couple of holes in my tarp...some of my beloved wood got wet!  Rubber roofing, cover the tops only.....I will be building a large woodshed this summer, maybe even a small chicken coop on the end as an added bonus.  The will eat bugs off of the woodpile, and I can eat the eggs!!


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## woodjack (Jan 11, 2012)

Scotty Overkill said:
			
		

> i'm not crazy about the plastic, it seems to rip and degrade.....but I am going to be able to pick those rubber roof remnants up for 40 bucks, and that is well worth having my 23 cords of C/S/S firewood stay dry......I have a lot of blood, sweat, and tears in that woodpile, it's like an extention of my family.......



Wow, 23 cords! $40 sounds like a good investment covering that stash.


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## ScotO (Jan 11, 2012)

woodjack said:
			
		

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yeah I think so too.....I cook maple syrup in the spring so I need quite a bit for that alone.  This time next year we'll be using the woodstove and fireplace both, so I need all I can get!!


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## woodjack (Jan 11, 2012)

Scotty Overkill said:
			
		

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It's not as pretty to look at, but I think I'll try keeping it covered all year. I just don't know if I could bare not seeing my wood, all of it, in the summer.


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## ScotO (Jan 11, 2012)

woodjack said:
			
		

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you'll be able to see it, plus it won't get all funky and have that ugly fungus growing all over it.  you'll be amazed at how good it burns too.  remember just cover the tops, maybe fold down over a couple of inches......


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## cptoneleg (Jan 11, 2012)

I have read all these reasons, to waste time covering, so I won't, there is absolutly no reason for me to join in.


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## black locust (Jan 11, 2012)

I leave my woodstacks totally uncovered the first year or two.  Then in the fall of the 2/3year I cover with 6 mil black plastic.  This stays covered until I use the stack.  I get the 10'x100' rolls for about 60$ and cut it into two 5' strips.  A five foot strip goes up the side, over and down the other side.  I tack staple it tight with a lot of staples.  I have had no problems with it lasting several years.  I have found with certain woods like maple, cherry, and especially red oak you may start to have some rot after a number of years.  I would at least cover the tops.  Locust, of course lasts forever uncovered and ash does pretty well too.


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## cptoneleg (Jan 11, 2012)

locust grove said:
			
		

> I leave my woodstacks totally uncovered the first year or two.  Then in the fall of the 2/3year I cover with 6 mil black plastic.  This stays covered until I use the stack.  I get the 10'x100' rolls for about 60$ and cut it into two 5' strips.  A five foot strip goes up the side, over and down the other side.  I tack staple it tight with a lot of staples.  I have had no problems with it lasting several years.  I have found with certain woods like maple, cherry, and especially red oak you may start to have some rot after a number of years.  I would at least cover the tops.  Locust, of course lasts forever uncovered and ash does pretty well too.



  after drying I move what needed into well ventelated woodshed, from there 2-3 days worth on covered porch about 24 hrs worth on hearth, so my wood is 100% in the dry at least 3 months before burn season. And the wood I start on has been undercover about 15 months.  If I didnt have the shed I would cover about Sept.


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## ScotO (Jan 11, 2012)

Woodsheds, if you have one, are the way to go, no doubt.......but for those of us less fortunate, you gotta cover the tops.  Especially during a year like we just had where it rained 4 out of 7 days a week all year long.... ;-P


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## oldspark (Jan 11, 2012)

I never cover the wood that is not dry yet, I just cover what I will need for the winter, wood stacked in multiple rows need covered more so than single rows which is the only way to fly.


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## ironworker (Jan 11, 2012)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> How on earth would water help to wick water out of wood?


Put a wet sponge and a dry sponge on a small puddle of water and see which on wicks water out faster, water is attracted to water, it naturally wants to go to the nearest moisture, I'm talking at the moleculer level man.


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## ScotO (Jan 11, 2012)

oldspark said:
			
		

> I never cover the wood that is not dry yet, I just cover what I will need for the winter, wood stacked in multiple rows need covered more so than single rows which is the only way to fly.


oldspark if I staged my wood in single rows I'd have a fence around a block and a half long!  Don't have the.space to do that so I am forced to stack in a group.  My stack is around 12' wide by 5' high by 80' long......have more up at father in laws that I dont have room for, bring that down in the spring to begin replenishing the wood we use in the winter...


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## hobbyheater (Jan 11, 2012)

Scotty Overkill said:
			
		

> My stack is around 12' wide by 5' high by 80' long......have more up at father in laws



PLEASE -PLEASE we need a picture :exclaim: That's a much wood as the first two railway car loads in the picture below. :roll:


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## ScotO (Jan 11, 2012)

Lol.....I don't have any pics of the whole thing....but if it isn't pouring down rain tomorrow after work I'll take one.......


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## Backwoods Savage (Jan 11, 2012)

woodjack said:
			
		

> Okay, covering the wood in September makes it better to burn now.
> Here's the question. Is it better to expose our wood to the elements from June-September, or keep it covered?




Woodjack, we do not cover our wood during the summer. We normally have the wood split and stacked by April and leave it uncovered. Our thinking is that leaving the wood uncovered just allows for better evaporation of the moisture. We've also found that when we stack approximately 4 1/2' high, by the time we cover the wood in late fall or early winter that stack of wood has shrunk to 4' high. This tells us that we indeed have lost a lot of moisture. However, we have left some wood uncovered completely but not for a long time. So this fall I did not cover what we stacked last spring. We'll see how it goes. 

In addition to this, you will see many times (and rightly so) that wood will dry faster if stacked in single rows. If that wood is needed quickly, then I agree. However, we do not stack in single rows. Notice in the pictures that these are the same wood stacks. One is uncovered (in Spring) and the other is covered (in fall). But notice one more little thing that I have never mentioned to those unbelievers. They say wood will not season worth a hoot stacked in multiple rows. So I have to ask this question:  Why are all three rows of the same height after drying over the summer months? If that center row did not dry as the outside rows did, would it not be higher? 











Note:  I am not suggesting that everybody stack wood as we do; absolutely not! What I am suggesting is that the center row of wood does indeed season just as well as the outside rows. It might be nice if they didn't because then the center would be higher and we would not have to worry about water sitting on top as it would run off like it does off a roof.


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## oldspark (Jan 12, 2012)

Scotty Overkill said:
			
		

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 That's cool, you do what you have to, if I keep going like I am (storm last year) I'm not going to have a good place for single rows either.


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## Backwoods Savage (Jan 12, 2012)

ironworker said:
			
		

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Wood is not a sponge! Never has been and never will be.....unless it is punky. Then it will. Otherwise, wood will not act like that sponge.


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## Backwoods Savage (Jan 12, 2012)

Scotty Overkill said:
			
		

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This particular wood pile had no problems being stacked so tightly.


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## woodjack (Jan 12, 2012)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

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Nice stacks. Looks like mine, only nicer.
One day I'm going to start a thread UGLY WOOD STACKS to show off my pile.


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## ironworker (Jan 12, 2012)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

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No but it acts like one, just like a rag isn't a sponge but will wick moisture, so will paper, also one of the reasons you need pallets, so your firewood doesn't wick moisture from the ground.


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## ironworker (Jan 12, 2012)

It does not matter how you stack or if you cover or not, moisture will leave anything organic, it is nothing more than a natural process that occurs with wood, sure there are ways to speed the process up, but in my 4 years of wood burning, anyway I stacked, single row, multiple rows, holz hausens, big ugly piles it was always dry enough to burn.
PS Nice stacks Backwoods Savage


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## Backwoods Savage (Jan 12, 2012)

I do not use pallets but that is not the point. You are not comparing the same thing. Trying to compare wood to a sponge is like trying to compare the speed of a horse to that of a Corvette. 

Here is one more good one for you. As a neighbor and I were cutting wood this week, we found some old wood that had been cut to length and was just laying on the ground. The best guestimate I can give on this wood is that it was cut either 3 or 4 years ago but my best bet is 4 years ago. This wood was not only laying on the ground but was also laying where water stands many times during the year. The wood was not even a little bit punky and yes, we will burn it, or rather, the neighbor will as he was fascinated with it. For sure most wood could not be in this condition after that length of time even if not sitting in water but this particular type wood will and we've seen it over and over. Perhaps your sponge might have lasted as long?


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## RWA6541 (Jan 12, 2012)

pallets and tin, find it old and used or i have even paid for some. Block the tin up so there is a good air gap and hold it down with old tires. JMHO


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## cptoneleg (Jan 12, 2012)

Diesel Smoke said:
			
		

> pallets and tin, find it old and used or i have even paid for some. Block the tin up so there is a good air gap and hold it down with old tires. JMHO




  bet thats pretty


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## RWA6541 (Jan 12, 2012)

cptoneleg said:
			
		

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## cptoneleg (Jan 12, 2012)

These are some top hands around here, they don't cover there stacks, and they been doing this all their lives.


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## cptoneleg (Jan 12, 2012)

Till next year when we discuss this again Im out of here good luck all


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## hobbyheater (Jan 12, 2012)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> This wood was not only laying on the ground but was also laying where water stands many times during the year



Just to side track on that thread. Through the 1920s to the late 60s, many of the stands of old growth timber were dumped directly into many of the larger fresh water lakes in this area and lot of those logs went directly to the bottom. In the 90s, some companies started to recover many of the submerged logs and the surprising thing to me is that after being submerged in fresh water for 60 and 70 years, the quality of the wood was just as good as the day it sank. Unfortunately or fortunately, from whichever side you look at it from, the salvaging was stopped.
Another interesting aspect to this salvage operation was that many of the trees that were brought up, were full length monsters with roots still attached and it was believed that many of these predated logging by many years!


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## hobbyheater (Jan 12, 2012)

cptoneleg said:
			
		

> These are some top hands around here, they don't cover there stacks, and they been doing this all their lives.



  With a lifetime of experience, do they get to drive the tractor? :exclaim:


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## ScotO (Jan 12, 2012)

Hobbyheater that wood stays preserved underwater for several reasons.  First and foremost it is not exposed to direct air, and that means no mold or fungus to decay it.  Of course the wood at the bottom of the Great Lakes is devoid of sunlight and it is in near freezing water (which keeps the bugs at bay) so that wood is basically perfectly preserved.  I like what they are doing getting that virgin growth timber and putting it to good use.   On that note I think this post has got sidetracked....lol....


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## cptoneleg (Jan 12, 2012)

hobbyheater said:
			
		

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  When they raise their little A$$'$ off the tractor seat to reach the pedals the safety kills the engine.  :lol:


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## velvetfoot (Jan 12, 2012)

Not that I've read the entire thread, but I paid 60 bucks last night for a 100' roll of 10' long 6 mil black plastic.


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## RWA6541 (Jan 13, 2012)

cptoneleg said:
			
		

> These are some top hands around here, they don't cover there stacks, and they been doing this all their lives.




Single Row stacks are nice, another thing to add. When I move the wood in my basement or garage I like to run an oscillating fan and dehumidifier for a couple weeks, because it always seems to bring moisture in. Of course this defeats some of the cost savings of being a wood burner...


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## timusp40 (Jan 14, 2012)

After reading all the posts and looking at the pictures, I decieded to cover only the tops. I think there will still be plenty of air circulation. Other pic is the cookie box for all the oddball stuff.


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## ScotO (Jan 14, 2012)

timusp40 said:
			
		

> After reading all the posts and looking at the pictures, I decieded to cover only the tops. I think there will still be plenty of air circulation. Other pic is the cookie box for all the oddball stuff.


timus nice setup!....looks alot like my pile.  I have a bunch of recently cut and split stuff I have to stack yet.  there is a BIG HOLE in the middle of my stack as that is where I started burning from this season......that stuff in the middle has been seasoning for three years so that's where I started.......I'll try to post a pic of mine soon.....not nearly as nice as others on here!


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## artmos (Jan 14, 2012)

steeltownwv has a good idea how to fasten the tarps. i'm gonna steal it as soon as my tarps arrive from amazon.will only cover the top of the pile.my current wood is all in my new woodshed. 2-3 years is my target under tarp. art


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## woodjack (Jan 15, 2012)

artmos said:
			
		

> steeltownwv has a good idea how to fasten the tarps. i'm gonna steal it as soon as my tarps arrive from amazon.will only cover the top of the pile.my current wood is all in my new woodshed. 2-3 years is my target under tarp. art



Which method is that?


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## artmos (Jan 15, 2012)

woodjack- steeltowns post is the one directly after yours where you quote thoreau. page one of this thread. gives the details of how he fastens the tarp to the pile. art


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