# Moving my wood stove



## dylskee (Jun 6, 2012)

Hello all,

I have a mid 80s cast iron woodstove in my living room on a huge brick hearth, I am getting new hardwood floors installed and I'm removing the hearth and replacing it with a pad to gain a little more room. What can I use to move my woodstove, it's crazy heavy! I have to store it in a spare room while the floors get installed and then I will have to be real careful to not scratch the floors when I put it back. Maybe put it on some type of rollers or something?


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## NSDave (Jun 6, 2012)

I used a hand truck and some straps, a few 2x6s and a good friend to move my old VC out of the house.  Its 425 lbs, BUT I removed the door, the griddle pan, firebrick, grates.  
Make it as light as possible, get some help.   cover over the floor on the way back in!.

hope this helps ya!


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## pen (Jun 6, 2012)

As Dave mentioned, removing as much from the stove as possible will help reduce the weight and make any method easier.

Last time I moved mine I used a floor jack (like you'd use to raise a car) and lifted it on that, then rolled it on the jacks wheels where it needed to go.  If you go this route, you'll need people balancing the stove on the jack.  It doesn't need to be lifted much obviously, but someone needs to be there for support.

pen


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## BrotherBart (Jun 6, 2012)

These things are priceless when you are moving a stove.

http://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?search_query=furniture+sliders


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## fossil (Jun 6, 2012)

Do you burn in this stove?  If so, I hope you've made sure that the pad you're planning on laying down in place of the brick hearth wii provide sufficient thermal insulative value beneath the stove to prevent a problem developing with the combustible floor below.  Rick


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## dylskee (Jun 6, 2012)

Thanks for all the replies guys! This is an older stove and doesn't have any bricks in it so the only thing I can do to lighten it up would be to remove the door. And yes I burn about 4 cord a year in this stove and I was going to put it on one of these hearth pads http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Wood-...ads/Heritage-Standard-Hearth-Pad-Bianco-Brown


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## fossil (Jun 6, 2012)

If you can identify the manufacturer and model and do some searching you may come up with the manufacturer's required R-value for the floor protection.  The pad you linked comes in 2 "flavors" a Type 1 @ R 0.84, and a Type 2 @ R 1.40.  There are stoves on the market today that require nothing more than non-combustible ember protection, while at the same time, there are stoves on the market today that require _more_ than R 1.40 for a hearth.  It's important (safety) stuff...please do your homework.  We can (and would be happy to) help if you tell us all about the appliance.  Rick


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## Don2222 (Jun 6, 2012)

Hello

I had a cast iron Extra Large FA288CCL Vermont Castings Consolidated DuchWest Federal Design Coal/Wood catalytic combustor stove that weighed in at a mere 600 lbs!

When it was 19 years old it left home to burn up north with a nice young man and it went out on a 4 wheel wooden carpeted dolly with 2x4s on edge to hold it on the mover's dolly.
I got the mover's dolly at Home Depot for $20 but Harbor's Freight has it cheaper now.
See link below.
http://www.harborfreight.com/movers-dolly-93888.html

Then to get the stove into the truck we removed the tail gate and rented a hand crank hydraulic fork lift!
See pic below!


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## begreen (Jun 6, 2012)

We have moved several stoves with just a heavy duty handtruck, ratchet straps and some padding. The last one was about 600#. Once it's on wheels moving it is a whole lot easier.

What is the make and model of the stove? Is it UL listed? You want to make sure that the new hearth pad is adequately sized and specced for the old stove.


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## dylskee (Jun 7, 2012)

It's an Efel Harmony like the one posted here http://www.lehmans.com/store/Stoves...l_Harmony_I_Wood_Heat_Stove___1333001#1333001

I'll look at the tag a little closer when I get home. You guys are making me nervous now!


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## jeff_t (Jun 7, 2012)

BrotherBart said:


> These things are priceless when you are moving a stove.
> 
> http://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?search_query=furniture+sliders



I used those to move my big @ss entertainment center, and was amazed at how easy the chincy pieces of plastic made it.


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## BrowningBAR (Jun 7, 2012)

I am moving stoves constantly. I use a dolly and several 2x4 planks.

Move dolly under stove.
Tilt stove to one side.
Slide 2x4 plank underneath.
Tilt stove to the other side.
Slide 2x4 underneath.
Repeat until stove legs are off the ground.
Then wheel that SOB around.

No lifting.
No cursing.


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## My Oslo heats my home (Jun 7, 2012)

we used a couple of furniture rollers, used a piece of fitted plywood as the surface


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## PA Fire Bug (Jun 7, 2012)

I broke the rollers on an appliance cart lowering a Vermont Castings Vigilant II coal stove down several concrete steps into our basement several years ago.  Against the advice of my wife, I didn't ask for help and moved it myself.  When she asked how I expected to move it by myself, my answer was "physics".  It was cast iron with a weight aroud 600 pounds. The stove wasn't harmed.  I used a reinforced plywood ramp to slide the stove out of the back of our Caravan.  When we sold the stove, the buyer brought a friend with a dolly and straps.  With the bricks, doors, grates and a few other pieces removed, it went out easier than it came in.  Having three guys lifting didn't hurt either.  Moving our Pacific Energy stoves by myself wasn't bad compared to the cast iron.  I moved one in the Caravan and borrowed a pick up to move the second one.  I strapped it to a dolly and used boards to get onto the deck and into the house.  Sorry, no photos were taken.  I asked my wife not to watch and tol her that I'd let her know when I was done.  With one stove downstairs and one in the living room, I'm not planning on moving any other stoves any time soon!


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## n3pro (Jun 7, 2012)

This is how I moved the Englander 30, worked well. Needed a second person to tilt it back but once it was tilted it carried it fine. Got the dolly seven years ago at Lowes.


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## DanCorcoran (Jun 7, 2012)

n3pro,

I was kinda hoping for a larger photo...!!


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## dylskee (Jun 7, 2012)

DanCorcoran said:


> n3pro,
> 
> I was kinda hoping for a larger photo...!!


LOL!


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## Don2222 (Jun 7, 2012)

n3pro said:


> This is how I moved the Englander 30, worked well. Needed a second person to tilt it back but once it was tilted it carried it fine. Got the dolly seven years ago at Lowes.


 
How is the weight on the Eng 30 about 475 lbs?


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## begreen (Jun 7, 2012)

DanCorcoran said:


> n3pro,
> 
> I was kinda hoping for a larger photo...!!


 
That is why there is a thumbnail option when posting files. I corrected this one.


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## dylskee (Jun 8, 2012)

Here is the tag on the back of the stove, how can I tell what rating I need the hearth to be?


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## begreen (Jun 8, 2012)

It looks like an Efel Harmony Catalytic. Is that correct? I would call www.woodmanspartsplus.com. It looks like they are selling the manual on eBay for a good price. If you buy it, can you copy it and post for others?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Efel-Harmon...764?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d33d857ac


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## dylskee (Jun 8, 2012)

begreen said:


> It looks like an Efel Harmony Catalytic. Is that correct? I would call www.woodmanspartsplus.com. It looks like they are selling the manual on eBay for a good price. If you buy it, can you copy it and post for others?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Efel-Harmon...764?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d33d857ac


Yes it is and thank you for the link, I just bought the manual and would be happy to share it. It's not a digital download though so I would have to create a pdf when I get it.


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## dylskee (Jun 9, 2012)

So how will I know what is a properly rated hearth for my particular stove? How much distance do I need from the wall behind the stove?


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## n3pro (Jun 9, 2012)

begreen said:


> That is why there is a thumbnail option when posting files. I corrected this one.


 
Thanks, sorry, still getting used to the new features.  Guess bigger isn't always better :-(


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## n3pro (Jun 9, 2012)

DanCorcoran said:


> n3pro,
> 
> I was kinda hoping for a larger photo...!!


 
I'll try to do a panorama next time.  I'm getting older my hair is falling out, hearing is failing and so are my eyes.


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## begreen (Jun 9, 2012)

LOL. No problem, glad to help.


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## dylskee (Aug 26, 2012)

Okay, the stove was moved and the new floors are going in real soon. I have a guy coming over tomorrow to give me an estimate on building a new hearth. We don't want to use brick this time so I'm thinking of some sort of tile, maybe slate or something. What have you guys used instead of brick for your hearth and surround?

My manual for the stove keeps referring to brick but I'm assuming because the maual was printed in the 80s it's probably dated? I'm sure that tile and stone would be acceptable?

Here's a scan from my manual......


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## fossil (Aug 26, 2012)

What that describes is a manufacturer's hearth requirement consisting of a good deal more than just non-combustible ember protection.  A stack of a brick atop a piece of sheet metal or a brick atop a sheet of millboard...that's telling me that some R-value is necessary.  I'd make a real rough guess that the brick/millboard stack would have an R-value approaching 1.5.  I don't know what to suggest other than contact your local Authority Having Jurisdiction and come up with a plan that makes everyone happy.

Short of that, if it were my house, I'd at the very least lay a sheet of 26 gauge sheet metal down then the decorative stone/tile/whatever on top of that...meeting or exceeding the size requirement shown.  Rick


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## dylskee (Aug 29, 2012)

fossil said:


> What that describes is a manufacturer's hearth requirement consisting of a good deal more than just non-combustible ember protection. A stack of a brick atop a piece of sheet metal or a brick atop a sheet of millboard...that's telling me that some R-value is necessary. I'd make a real rough guess that the brick/millboard stack would have an R-value approaching 1.5. I don't know what to suggest other than contact your local Authority Having Jurisdiction and come up with a plan that makes everyone happy.
> 
> Short of that, if it were my house, I'd at the very least lay a sheet of 26 gauge sheet metal down then the decorative stone/tile/whatever on top of that...meeting or exceeding the size requirement shown. Rick


 
Thanks for the reply fossil! Yeah, I wouldn't be able to sleep at night if I didn't do this right, I think I'm going to put a piece of 2" thick blue stone and some stone veneer for the surround. Would it be a bad idea to use two 45 degree elbows to get my stove closer to the wall? Would I have updraft issues if I did that?

A picture is worth a 1000 words....... This not my stove, just a picture I found online.


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## Highbeam (Aug 29, 2012)

So you folks describe supporting the weight of the stove by the bottom of the firebox. Not the legs. Are all stoves capable of this? I would think that the cast iron ash pan would easily break if I tried to lift the stove with a jack beneath my hearthstone.


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## begreen (Aug 29, 2012)

Definitely support it by the legs. Our ashpan would be flattened instantly if I tried to lift the stove there. Instead I slide the stove onto a plywood board before moving it or leave it bolted to the pallet if new.


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## fossil (Aug 29, 2012)

dylskee said:


> ...I think I'm going to put a piece of 2" thick blue stone and some stone veneer for the surround. Would it be a bad idea to use two 45 degree elbows to get my stove closer to the wall? Would I have updraft issues if I did that?...


 
How close your stove can be to anything depends on what the anything is made of (combustible or non) and the clearances from combustibles shown in the manufacturer's manual.  That will tell you whether or not offsetting your flue buys you anything in terms of "closer to the wall".  Anytime you add a change in flue direction, you introduce more resistance to flow of the gas stream, so yes, your draft will be affected.  Whether or not 2 45's will make a noticeable difference in your setup I can't say.  A picture of this stove and the intended location sure would help...I'm kinda flying blind here, and I don't like that because this is important stuff.  Rick


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## charly (Aug 29, 2012)

I just moved my 450 lb stove with a furniture dolly, worked great. Slid the dolly under the stove and started adding wood underneath, lifting one end at a time until the legs were off the ground. Then unbolted the legs. Next started taking the wood back out , one end at a time until the stove was on a single piece of wood at each end , still on the dolly. Now a low center of gravity. Next I secured the stove to the dolly with two ratchet straps, placing card board under the straps where they came around on the corners. Then simply wheeled the stove off my hearth pad and out of the house. Worked great! And yes I took off the door, heat shields, bottom ash pan and firebrick out to get rid of some weight.


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## KaptJaq (Aug 29, 2012)

dylskee said:


> ...Would it be a bad idea to use two 45 degree elbows to get my stove closer to the wall? ...
> 
> View attachment 72865


 
What kind of wall is behind the stove?  If it is made of combustible materials you cannot move the stove closer than 25 inches from the wall.  The single wall stove pipe must be at least 15.5 inches away.  If there is a side wall it must be 27 inches from the side of the stove.  This information is from the label on the back of the stove.  The same label also requires a hearth pad of at least 3/4 inch asbestos or equivalent. I'm not sure what the R value is for 3/4 asbestos but 3/4 inch mineral fiber board on 26 gauge sheet metal with a cement board/tile top should probably do it.

The stove you have was tested in June 1988 and appears to be a Harmony catalytic stove.  What condition is the cat in?

KaptJaq


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## fossil (Aug 29, 2012)

Single wall stovepipe requires 18".


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## KaptJaq (Aug 30, 2012)

fossil said:


> Single wall stovepipe requires 18".


 
Sorry, I was relaying the information as presented on the stove's certification label.  I forgot to take into account changes in standards since its testing date of June 1988.



dylskee said:


> My manual for the stove keeps referring to brick but I'm assuming because the maual was printed in the 80s it's probably dated? I'm sure that tile and stone would be acceptable?
> 
> Here's a scan from my manual......
> 
> View attachment 72683


 
Is the manual you have for the catalytic or non-catalytic version of the stove?


KaptJaq


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## BrowningBAR (Aug 30, 2012)

Highbeam said:


> So you folks describe supporting the weight of the stove by the bottom of the firebox. Not the legs. Are all stoves capable of this? I would think that the cast iron ash pan would easily break if I tried to lift the stove with a jack beneath my hearthstone.


 
Works just fine with the Heritage.

And the Defiant.

And the Vigilant.

All were put on a dolly and were sitting on the ash pan casting or the bottom of the stove (the vigilant).


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## Highbeam (Aug 30, 2012)

BrowningBAR said:


> Works just fine with the Heritage.
> 
> And the Defiant.
> 
> ...


 
Wow, no kidding? Rather than a jack head you used cribbing under the ash pan but above the dolly to elevate the stove until the legs cleared the ground right? On the heritage, the intake plenum is cast into the ash pan assembly and makes an odd shaped base. While risky, this method sure seems effective for a one man operation.


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## BrowningBAR (Aug 30, 2012)

Highbeam said:


> Wow, no kidding? Rather than a jack head you used cribbing under the ash pan but above the dolly to elevate the stove until the legs cleared the ground right? On the heritage, the intake plenum is cast into the ash pan assembly and makes an odd shaped base. While risky, this method sure seems effective for a one man operation.


 
Yep. I used 2x4 planks with the dolly to increase clearances. Slide dolly under stove. Lift to one side, insert plank. Lift to other side, insert plank. Repeat until legs are off the ground. Then wheel stove to desired location.


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## dylskee (Aug 30, 2012)

KaptJaq said:


> What kind of wall is behind the stove? If it is made of combustible materials you cannot move the stove closer than 25 inches from the wall. The single wall stove pipe must be at least 15.5 inches away. If there is a side wall it must be 27 inches from the side of the stove. This information is from the label on the back of the stove. The same label also requires a hearth pad of at least 3/4 inch asbestos or equivalent. I'm not sure what the R value is for 3/4 asbestos but 3/4 inch mineral fiber board on 26 gauge sheet metal with a cement board/tile top should probably do it.
> 
> The stove you have was tested in June 1988 and appears to be a Harmony catalytic stove. What condition is the cat in?
> 
> KaptJaq


My wall is 13-1/2" from the stove pipe but I'm putting up a brick or stone surround along with a stone base for the stove to sit on.

After reading the rest of my manual especially after you mentioned the cat, I believe the cat is bad. I noticed the last couple of years the creosote build up in the chimney was real bad! I've been using the stove 10 years now and the previous owners for 3 years. I'm not sure how long this stove has been in this house but I don't think the cat was ever replaced. Can I even get a replacement for this stove or should I just invest in a new stove? I'm really nervous with this stove now.......


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## Wood Duck (Aug 30, 2012)

Tile or a piece of stone may not necessarily provide enough thermal insulation to meet the requirements of the stove. Of course the stone itself is fire resistant, but if the stone allows too much heat to get through it to the floor below, the floor could ignite (if the floor is some material like wood that burns). You may need to add some non-combustile material such as cement board (only certain brands are acceptable) below the stone to provide extra insulation. Simply using a tile or stone surface material may not always be enough. This varies between stoves. Some require only a non-combustible surface material, other stoves require a prescibed R-value.


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## charly (Aug 30, 2012)

BrowningBAR said:


> Yep. I used 2x4 planks with the dolly to increase clearances. Slide dolly under stove. Lift to one side, insert plank. Lift to other side, insert plank. Repeat until legs are off the ground. Then wheel stove to desired location.


Exactly what I did , but I just took off the legs. Adding a planks allowed the stove to be supported right where you wanted it, not doing any damage. I think much nicer to move then a hand cart .


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## KaptJaq (Aug 30, 2012)

dylskee said:


> My wall is 13-1/2" from the stove pipe but I'm putting up a brick or stone surround along with a stone base for the stove to sit on.


 
Let the forum know what you plan to do (materials, thickness, etc) for the surround/hearth and the clearances you will have. I'm sure the members here will comment and guide you in the right direction.




dylskee said:


> After reading the rest of my manual especially after you mentioned the cat, I believe the cat is bad. I noticed the last couple of years the creosote build up in the chimney was real bad! I've been using the stove 10 years now and the previous owners for 3 years. I'm not sure how long this stove has been in this house but I don't think the cat was ever replaced. Can I even get a replacement for this stove or should I just invest in a new stove?


 
If the cat is over 5 years old it is probably shot. There are a number of places that sell replacement catalytic converters at reasonable prices. I don't have a cat but someone with a cat stove could probably recommend a source... A new stove will be more efficient and can give you the latest in technology and safety features. It is your budget and decision.




dylskee said:


> I'm really nervous with this stove now.......


 
From what I've seen it is a reasonable stove. If it is good condition and not warped or cracked from over-firing it can be safely re-installed and used. Replace the cat, watch your CTC (clearances to combustibles),check the thermal resistance on the pad, and ask if you are in doubt. My Godin stove was originally installed in 1979 and is still used 24/7 during the season.

If you do have any concerns about the stove get a professional to inspect it.

I would suggest that you start new threads relating to specific questions going forward...

KaptJaq


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## dylskee (Aug 31, 2012)

KaptJaq said:


> Let the forum know what you plan to do (materials, thickness, etc) for the surround/hearth and the clearances you will have. I'm sure the members here will comment and guide you in the right direction.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the replies KaptJaq! 
My wife and I had a talk this morning and we've decided to hold off on the new floors until spring which will allow us to purchase a new stove and replace the hearth. Now I need to find a good stove store that will do the install as well. Anyone from the Central Mass are know of a good stove place??


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## begreen (Aug 31, 2012)

You can still get catalysts for the Efel. This was a good heater. If it's in good condition I wouldn't be overly concerned. A replacement cat is available here: http://www.woodstovecombustors.com/combustor_search.html. Just type in Efel in the search box. You should come up with this result:
CC-303  Size 2.6 x 14.3 x 2.5 25 Cells Canned - $181

If you decide on going for a new stove, can you post a bit more information about the house and space that is to be heated? A picture of the current setup would also be helpful. And let us know a bit more about the style stove that appeals to both of you.


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## dylskee (Aug 31, 2012)

begreen said:


> You can still get catalysts for the Efel. This was a good heater. If it's in good condition I wouldn't be overly concerned. A replacement cat is available here: http://www.woodstovecombustors.com/combustor_search.html. Just type in Efel in the search box. You should come up with this result:
> CC-303  Size 2.6 x 14.3 x 2.5 25 Cells Canned - $181
> 
> If you decide on going for a new stove, can you post a bit more information about the house and space that is to be heated? A picture of the current setup would also be helpful. And let us know a bit more about the style stove that appeals to both of you.


 
I was going to replace the cat but after wrestling with it this morning I can't get the bolts out that hold the cat in place. They have a phillips slot in them and they won't budge, so I took my map gas to it to heat them up and the heads of two of them already snapped off! The only bolt I was able to get out was bent to all hell, 7 bolts hold it in place.


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## begreen (Aug 31, 2012)

Yes, that can happen, particularly if they haven't been touched in a couple decades. They can be drilled out and tapped if you are worried about reselling.


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## dylskee (Aug 31, 2012)

begreen said:


> If you decide on going for a new stove, can you post a bit more information about the house and space that is to be heated? A picture of the current setup would also be helpful. And let us know a bit more about the style stove that appeals to both of you.


 
We are looking for a catalytic stove, something with a 10 hour burn time, rear 6" flue. Cast Iron and max budget will be about $2200. I really like the Harmon Oakwood but it's a little over budget and it looks like it just top vent stove. 
Here is a picture (crappy cell phone picture, sorry) of my hearth and stove before I removed it all. How much do you think it would cost me to replace that hearth with brick again? I've got a couple guys giving me quotes but it's been two weeks and I haven't heard back from them!


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## KaptJaq (Aug 31, 2012)

dylskee said:


> How much do you think it would cost me to replace that hearth with brick again? I've got a couple guys giving me quotes but it's been two weeks and I haven't heard back from them!


 
I would choose a stove first then get quotes on the hearth.  You have to make sure that the thermal resistance ("R" value) of the hearth is adequate for the stove.

KaptJaq


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## dylskee (Aug 31, 2012)

KaptJaq said:


> I would choose a stove first then get quotes on the hearth. You have to make sure that the thermal resistance ("R" value) of the hearth is adequate for the stove.
> 
> KaptJaq


That's true, but when I asked for the quotes I was intending on putting my old stove on it. I'm hoping to go looking tommorow but most of the stove stores around here are closed for the long weekend.


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## firewoodjunky (Sep 1, 2012)

dylskee said:


> Thanks for the replies KaptJaq!
> My wife and I had a talk this morning and we've decided to hold off on the new floors until spring which will allow us to purchase a new stove and replace the hearth. Now I need to find a good stove store that will do the install as well. Anyone from the Central Mass are know of a good stove place??


 
Higgins Energy in Barre, MA just built a new showroom. Might be worth a drive just to eyeball some different stoves.


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## dylskee (Sep 2, 2012)

Well I had to break all the screw heads off to get the cover off but when I did there was no sign of the catalyst. It looks like someone has removed it. Is it safe to run a catalytic stove without it?


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## Highbeam (Sep 4, 2012)

dylskee said:


> Well I had to break all the screw heads off to get the cover off but when I did there was no sign of the catalyst. It looks like someone has removed it. Is it safe to run a catalytic stove without it?


 
You wouldn't be the first guy to remove the catalyst and run his stove that way. It can be done safely.


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