# Older Whitfield Quest / lazy flame



## Ricks (Mar 12, 2012)

Hi,

I am a long time reader, but just joined and have a question / problem. Over this past winter my quest has gotten to the point the flame is very lazy. I have checked the exhaust pipe and cleaned it. I have readjusted the door to make sure the door closes tight. At this point the flame in the burn pot is worce than a candle burning in the room.

At this point I have to run the stove with the pellet feed on low and the damper control wide open to get the stove to produce any flame.

If I look under the burn pot there is a square hold that leads out the back of the stove. I cannot see anything that should block this hole. I don't understand the purpose of this hole.

In the past I have replaced the exhaust blower, auger motor (twice) auger, bushing and plate. This have improved the running of the stove, but this lazy flame has me stumped.

Can anyone help pinpoint my problem for me.

I am located in Western Maine (Oxford Hills area) and if someone can point me to a good serviceman to stop by that would be a big help.

thanks

Rick..........


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## Defiant (Mar 12, 2012)

Put up a photo, most likely you need to do a deeper internal cleaning, like behind the mainframe or internal baffle plates.


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## Ricks (Mar 12, 2012)

I can post a picture, but basically a candle produces more action than my flame.

Can you explain what the mainframe and internal baffle plates are?

I have cleaned around the heat exchange tubes.  I use to remove the firebrick, but there is nothing behind them.

I have another question, the stove has three motors; auger motor and two fan motors.  One fan motor, I call it the exhaust, pushes the hot exhust air out the pipe.  The other fan motor I belive provides a boost to the room air.  What are the proper names for these fans and what do both of them do?

thanks

Rick......


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## DexterDay (Mar 12, 2012)

That hole your referring to, is the air inlet. There should be an inlet 2"-3" round air intake on the back of the stove. A pellet stove is a giant air pump. Air is pushed/forced out of the exhaust. So air must be pulled in from somewhere.

It starts at the air inlet, travels up that tube/channel and the ends up in the burn pot receptacle,  which forces the air through the burn pot holes. From there it travels through one or more channels (depends on stove) till it reaches the combustion blower. Once there, its forced out..

Your stove is likely plugged up. When was the last time you cleaned the ash traps (exhaust passages to combustion blower)? Although the intake could be plugged (doubt you have an Outside Air Kit by the sound of your post), so I doubt its plugged. More than likely the exhaust channels.

Does the motor for your combustion blower have oil ports? When was the last time the motor was removed and serviced (motor dust bunnies blown out and lubed, impeller cleaned of all ash crud)??


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## Defiant (Mar 12, 2012)

Thanks DD, behind the the fire brick are 2 panels that come off and I'll bet you they are full of ash that blocks the air flow.


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## Ricks (Mar 12, 2012)

DexterDay,

You are correct I do not have an outside air kit on my stove. 

I agree with you the stove is very likely plugged up.  I empty the ash bin under the stove several times a year and vacoom out the stove several times as well.  Where are the exhaust channels and how do I clean them.

When you state combustion motor, which motor is that as I look at the stove, the right or the left.  Note the right side motor pushes the exhaust gases outside, if that helps.  I replaced the exhaust motor a four or five years ago.  I have taken compressed air (from a can) and blown out the motor itself, but not the blades of the motor.  I do lube the motor once a year with lightweight oil.

Rick.......


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## SmokeyTheBear (Mar 12, 2012)

Start here: https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/13419/


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## DexterDay (Mar 12, 2012)

Yes. Right side motor should be removed once a year to clean all the build up on the impeller and behind it. This can greatly reduce the overall flow. You will need a gasket beforehand. As they normally fall apart upon removal. I would oil the motor as well again. Also removing the leftside motor (room air) is suggested once a year to clean motor, oil, and clean the squirrel cage for the blower. It gets plugged with dust (and pet hair if you have any). Which cuts down on the airflow from the stove.

There should be ash traps behind the firebrick. You may need a small hose to connect to your shop vac, or have you heard of the Leafblower trick?? Works well and cleans some hard to reach places. Do a search up top and you should get plenty of results.

Here is Defiants last thread. Good info there.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/92180/


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## Ricks (Mar 12, 2012)

DexterDay,

I have heard of the leafblower trick, but have not tried it yet.  

I want to make sure I understand, that behind the firebrick are two panels that I can remove.  I have removed the firebrick, but never the panels.  That said, the last time I removed the firebrick I did not see any panels that could be removed.

On my quest the back of the firebox is flat there are no angled sides.  The firebricks runs completely across the back of the stove.

I know I have a lot of questions, but I am learning; thanks

Rick......


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## Defiant (Mar 12, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

> Start here: https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/13419/


Smokey X 10 read the manual, all you have to do is clean your stove, you do have areas behind the firebrick that can be opened to clean the ash.


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## DexterDay (Mar 12, 2012)

Here is a link to the owners manual. If you dont have it.. Then again?? You said your Firebrick is flat? What model Quest do you have?

http://www.pelletking.com/pellet-stove-manuals/Whitfield-Advantage-IIT-Pellet-Stove-Manual.pdf

Here is a link on how to clean. 

http://www.ehow.com/how_6777368_clean-whitfield-pellet-stove.html

Smokeys link is a good one. Its a sticky at the top of the page.

Do you know where the exhaust goes after it leaves the firebox? You should try and find how the stove "Breathes". How do the gases go from pot to blower motor. Understanding where it goes and why, will show you the spots prone to plugging with fly ash. Almost all stoves have a problem area.


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## Ricks (Mar 12, 2012)

DexterDay,

I have a Quest freestanding unit.  The model number is WP42UEST.

I do have the original manual for the stove but there is no mention of panels behind the firebrick or ash traps.

And yes the Firebrick is flat, not angles or side pieces.  The Firebrick basicly runs from one side of the door to the other.  Note the door does have a flat front and two angled sides.

I do not know where the exhaust goes after it leaves the firebox.  Yes I know is goes through a blower and out the exhaust pipe, but I don't know how it gets to the blower.

I have read through Smokeys link and understand the stove needs to be clean.  What I am missing (and need to take a second look at the stove) is the removeable pannels behind the firebrick.  I don't remember seeing them.

My plan of attack is to remove the Firebrick and see if I can find any screws or bolts to remove to panels behind the firebrick.

Rick........


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## Defiant (Mar 12, 2012)

Ricks said:
			
		

> DexterDay,
> 
> I have a Quest freestanding unit.  The model number is WP42UEST.
> 
> ...


Where it shows built up fly ash. Remove retention plates


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## Stovensen (Mar 12, 2012)

Ricks said:
			
		

> If I look under the burn pot there is a square hole that leads out the back of the stove. I cannot see anything that should block this hole. I don't understand the purpose of this hole.
> 
> Rick..........



Definitely a safety feature. If for instance emptying the ash drawer is totally neglected, this square hole is the last resort for the stove to breathe. At this point the heat will spread to the back of the rectangular housing where the inlet high temp switch is placed. This will trip and the pellet feed stop. And eventually the stove shuts down, when the low limit switch is tripped. See photo of inlet high temp switch below.

Cleaning the cavity behind the fire brick on the Quest stoves is a PITA. Probably one of the most difficult stoves to clean out there. The illustration that Defiant has posted is not a Quest. It looks like an Advantage of the later generations, since it has an Ultragrate fire pot, and these should be much easier to clean, since the baffle plates can be removed.

Behind the fire brick on a Quest there is no access to the cavity between the heat exchanger and the combustion blower housing. In this cavity fly ash is accumulated little by little eventually obstructing the combustion air flow.
I use a long and narrow bottle brush... this is thin and long enough to be inserted next to the heat exchanger tubes, one side at a time. Afterwards, with the combustion motor removed, this bottle brush can reach the cavity from the other side.
A thin plastic hose fitted to the vac can then suck away all the crud. Banging with a soft hammer on the wall behind the fire brick may also loosen some of the crud.
After this cleaning my Quest Plus allways burns like a brand new stove.
I've attached a couple of pics showing the impeller on my combustion blower before and after cleaning. Also, the color of the outermost/latest layers clearly indicates that the combustion has become bad/lazy ( dark soot ), whereas the innermost layers are light grey, indicating correct combustion.

If you're careful with the fiber gasket, when pulling the combustion blower from its housing, it may be reused a couple of seasons. At least I had to, since I cannot get any Whitfield parts where I live. Next time I consider using some of the silica paste for silencers on cars.


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## wwert (Mar 12, 2012)

This stove also has openings on either side of the heat exchanger tubes inside top of the firebox that are prone to caked up fly ash. You have to scrape it out with a sharp object and the ash just keeps coming. Don't be afraid to whack the back wall with a rubber mallet. After you remove the fire brick of course.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Mar 12, 2012)

If you keep the heat exchanger and the area to either side of it brushed clean, you can use a leaf blower or a high sucking power shop vacuum with proper filters (not those little ones) to remove the crud via the exhaust venting or via the combustion blower cavity if you can get a decent seal to the path coming from the heat exchanger.

If you have access to an air compressor with the proper precautions you can also use that to clear the area on either side, then you'll likely have to do a vent cleaning (Be careful with this way, because it is very easy to have the ash come back at you and into the room with the stove.).


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## bbone (Mar 12, 2012)

the square hole under firebox leads out to the right to the 
exhaust blower area


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## stellep (Mar 12, 2012)

I have this same stove.  Mine has been trouble free since I got it new.  
+1 on what Stovensen says about cleaning with a bottle brush.   It does not seem to me that much ash gets caught up in there, but no one has even seen inside of this sealed manifold so I do it anyway.  Use a small long-stemmed bottle brush that you are absolutely, positively sure won't get stuck in there  :bug:   Run the vac while doing this from the hole where you took the motor out.   Careful of the damper flap.  Turn the damper control to move it where you want.  You'll see it. Of course clean the exhaust motor/fan chamber too.  

On the WP4 the square hole is the air intake (don't know about the Plus).  If you had an OAK, it would hook up somewhere around this hole.  Where the tube is by the power plug.  Doesn't look like Mr. Oak had gotten very far with his invention when these stoves were made.  The high limit switch location is different from the Plus.  It's on the firebox behind the damper control knob on the panel.  I'm guessing just behind where you'll be using the bottle brush.  Exhaust gets too hot, it trips.

Don't go nuts oiling the motors.  Too much oil can be as bad as none.  I use one drop for each point in October,  and again mid season.  Initially I could not find the turbine oil that they recommend for this,  so I use Mobil 1 10W-30  :roll: 

Also, check the exhaust past the comb motor closest to outside.   And the cleanout tee can fill up as well.  Too many nasty ash pellets would probably choke the stove exhibit the symptoms you are having.

That's all I got.  Good luck.


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## Ricks (Mar 12, 2012)

Stellep,

The damper flap that you mention, where is that exactly.  Is it before or after the blower?  I am wondering if it got damaged in sme manner.

thanks

Rick.........


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## stellep (Mar 12, 2012)

If you are looking inside the comb blower hole,  it's to your left.  So b4 the blower.  The cable from the damper control on the board attaches to an arm on the top of the exhaust that controls the damper position.  Move the damper control knob and you'll see it.  If it doesn't move, it's broken(cable).  It could be stuck shut.  My stove runs great with the damper almost fully closed because of the clean exhaust system.  Yours will run like new too.


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## Ricks (Mar 12, 2012)

Can the damper be damaged if I have been operating the stove with the control set to full but the damper is stuck closed?

And if so how would I repair it?

thanks

Rick.........


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## SmokeyTheBear (Mar 12, 2012)

Ricks said:
			
		

> Can the damper be damaged if I have been operating the stove with the control set to full but the damper is stuck closed?
> 
> And if so how would I repair it?
> 
> ...



Yes, if it was hit and deformed or if it is rusted or corroded.

A rust  penetrate (things like liquid wrench etc .... just remember most such things are flammable and stink) and elbow grease should free it up.


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## Ricks (Mar 12, 2012)

Okay,  I spent some time with a shop vacuum, canned air, screw drivers and a flashlight.  I vacuumed out the firebox and air exchange tubes.  Next I removed the Firebrick and vacuumed behind there.  Then I removed the exhaust motor and fan; lost the gasket in the process.  I used the canned air to clean the fan and motor (yes that was done outside).  Next I scrapped and vacuumed out the area where the exhaust fan sits.  I did locate the air damper and it does move.  Next I reversed the vacuum and blew air into the exhaust pipe.  I did get some soot outside, but not much given I just cleaned the vent with a brush last week.

I did not locate any panels behind the Firebrick.  I used a flashlight to look for any screws or bolts; no luck.  I did not two rectangle openings on either side of the air exchange tubes.  I tried blowing the canned air into them but could not tell if it made any difference.  Am I supposed to put a bottle brush into these two openings?

Given I lost the gasket (broke into several pieces) would it be safe to operate the stove for a short period of time to determine if all of my work improved the stove.  To be clear I am not suggesting I run the stove for several hours, but for 10 or fifteen minutes.

Thanks

Rickâ€¦â€¦â€¦â€¦.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Mar 12, 2012)

Ricks said:
			
		

> Okay,  I spent some time with a shop vacuum, canned air, screw drivers and a flashlight.  I vacuumed out the firebox and air exchange tubes.  Next I removed the Firebrick and vacuumed behind there.  Then I removed the exhaust motor and fan; lost the gasket in the process.  I used the canned air to clean the fan and motor (yes that was done outside).  Next I scrapped and vacuumed out the area where the exhaust fan sits.  I did locate the air damper and it does move.  Next I reversed the vacuum and blew air into the exhaust pipe.  I did get some soot outside, but not much given I just cleaned the vent with a brush last week.
> 
> I did not locate any panels behind the Firebrick.  I used a flashlight to look for any screws or bolts; no luck.  I did not two rectangle openings on either side of the air exchange tubes.  I tried blowing the canned air into them but could not tell if it made any difference.  Am I supposed to put a bottle brush into these two openings?
> 
> ...



Yes use a brush at the top of the wall going through to behind the wall.

If you have a leaf blower that has vacuum capability attach the vacuum end to the vent of the stove, aim it away from anything you don't want covered in ash and start it up.

Do not run that stove inside without a gasket on the exhaust blower.  You could (not that likely but it can happen) dump carbon monoxide into your house and it is likely to leak other exhaust gases as well.


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## DexterDay (Mar 12, 2012)

Yep.. That area is likely the area that is clogged. Gonna need some bottle brushes or some long thin dryer lint brushes and a rubber mallet as suggested (a few times).

If you have access to an air compressor with a nozzle, it would work 1000% better than canned air, but something is better than nothing. Air compressor and a Leaf blower are my 2 favorite cleaning tools
.

The area behind that firebrick is the path the exhaust takes to get to the combustion blower. With it plugged, the stove cant blow air out, nor suck air in.


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## Ricks (Mar 13, 2012)

DexterDay.  

I forgot to mention I did hit the back of the firebox with a mallet.  I did run the vacuum at the same time, but did not seem to pick up any soot.  Blowing canned air down did not seem to produce lots of soot either.

Next steps would be to find some bottle brushes or dryer lint brushes.  Plus take the leaf blower to the vent.

I don't have an air compressor hence the canned air.  And yes I understand the air compress is better than the canned air.  

Smokey, I won't run the stove till I replace the gasket.  I do understan about CO2, but was hoping I could get a get test to determine if I had made any improvements in running the stove.

I will touch base when I clean out the area behind the firebox and take a leaf blower to the vent.

thanks for all the help.

Rick.....


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## SmokeyTheBear (Mar 13, 2012)

Ricks said:
			
		

> DexterDay.
> 
> I forgot to mention I did hit the back of the firebox with a mallet.  I did run the vacuum at the same time, but did not seem to pick up any soot.  Blowing canned air down did not seem to produce lots of soot either.
> 
> ...



Nothing to stop you from running it outside.


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## stellep (Mar 13, 2012)

Ricks said:
			
		

> DexterDay.
> 
> I forgot to mention I did hit the back of the firebox with a mallet.  I did run the vacuum at the same time, but did not seem to pick up any soot.  Blowing canned air down did not seem to produce lots of soot either.
> 
> ...



That's because there is nothing behind the firebox.  The exhaust runs down each side of the firebox vertically and one tube across the bottom of the firebox horizontally.  The left side vertical connects to the left side of the horizontal.  The damper is at the far right of the horizontal run.  The right vertical connects to the horizontal in front of the damper, closer to the left than the damper.  You can't see it.  These hor and vert tubes are what you want to clean with the bottle brush.  This is a closed system, there are no access plates like on the Advantage.  This is annoying at first but once you figure it out, you'll be rockin.

You can get maybe 1/2 inch diameter bottle brush at most into the exhaust.  Has to have a long wire on it.  These are small tubes.  Nix on the dryer brush.  Way too big.

Gotta have the gasket if running in the house.  Buy 2 or maybe 3.

Leaf blower is always good, excepting the neighbors.  Wait till they are out.


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## Ricks (Mar 13, 2012)

Nearest neighbor is a quarter mile away, don't think the soot will bother them.

I am on the hunt for a bottle brush.  Got an ideas?

Rick........


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## wwert (Mar 13, 2012)

I found mine at the local hardware store. Try the Aubuchon in Paris. used to be Swanns. I have a place in Poland so I am up your way from time to time.


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## stellep (Mar 13, 2012)

I use the Harbor Freight brushes, but they seem just a little short, 16 or 18 in.  You'll hit the exchanger with your fingers, and you can't see the end of the brush by looking in the damper.  The stove seems to breathe fine though.  The vertical runs. like the vertical Duravent, don't seem to gather much ash.  The horizontals fill up over time.  The HF brushes work fine on the hor.


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## DexterDay (Mar 13, 2012)

stellep said:
			
		

> Ricks said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Maybe my lint brush was misunderstood. Its about a foot long, completely flexible and has a 1/4" steel shaft, and can fit through any 1/2" hole. Goes from 1" bristles to 2" bristles at the end and almost 3 ft in length. An invaluable tool and better than any bottle brush because of length. 

I still have bottle brushes. But I have several of these in different configurations. They are the dryer trap lint brushes. For the little trap area inside the dryer door. Not a 4" dryer or pellet vent brush.


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## stellep (Mar 13, 2012)

Looks good to me.  I'm always paranoid that I'll get stuck in the exhaust manifold or break off or something.  Where'd you get it?


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## Brewer (Mar 13, 2012)

I got one similar to dex's at harbor freight
http://www.harborfreight.com/dryer-vent-brush-96163.html


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## DexterDay (Mar 13, 2012)

There was a link in the pellet room for a brush place. I will.see if I can find it. Thats where I bought that particular one. But I have 4 others like it from Wal-Mart, Lowes, HD, local.Hardware stores, Etc. Its a standard dryer "Lint Trap" brush. Or some are considered refrigerator coil brushes.


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## stellep (Mar 13, 2012)

Thanks Dexter. I'll get one at one of the alternate sources. Brewer.  I heard that brewers have brushes that are perfect for this stuff.  Thanks.


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## Stovensen (Mar 13, 2012)

The brush on Dexters photo has the optimal dimensions... better than those I'm using. Yes, a store where they sell items for homebrewers may be the place to find it also where I live. I'll start looking for it now. Thanks for the tip.

Still, I think it's a nuisance that the "exhaust manifold" is such a sealed unit on the Quest stoves. Some mods could be made, and I just got inspired to this by studying how the newer Lennox stoves are made in this respect. 
Below is an illustration from the owners/installation manual of the Lennox Bella. It shows clearly how smart and elegant this stove is made in order to facilitate cleaning... the lid marked "A" is simply removed by loosening two 5/32" allen screws and voila, the bottle brush has now access to all the accumulated crud ;-) 

On an old Quest stove it should be possible to make an opening for cleaning approximately where I've drawn the green rectangle. See illustration below.
It will require a little elbow grease in the work shop, though. I have a jig saw with blades for metal to cut the rectangular hole in the stove. I also have some 3 mm sheet metal. From this I'll cut out the lid to cover the hole. The threaded holes for two 6 mm allen screws I have tools to make, too. Some gasket material is needed between the lid and stove surfaces... a cheap and secure material readily available everywhere is Holts Gun Gum for silencers on cars


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## SmokeyTheBear (Mar 13, 2012)

stellep said:
			
		

> Thanks Dexter. I'll get one at one of the alternate sources. Brewer.  I heard that brewers have brushes that are perfect for this stuff.  Thanks.



Brew supply places have all kinds of good things ;-) .

After all you have to have clean long neck bottles, carboys, and other items that require a long handled brush


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## SmokeyTheBear (Mar 13, 2012)

Stovensen said:
			
		

> The brush on Dexters photo has the optimal dimensions... better than those I'm using. Yes, a store where they sell items for homebrewers may be the place to find it also where I live. I'll start looking for it now. Thanks for the tip.
> 
> Still, I think it's a nuisance that the "exhaust manifold" is such a sealed unit on the Quest stoves. Some mods could be made, and I just got inspired to this by studying how the newer Lennox stoves are made in this respect.
> Below is an illustration from the owners/installation manual of the Lennox Bella. It shows clearly how smart and elegant this stove is made in order to facilitate cleaning... the lid marked "A" is simply removed by loosening two 5/32" allen screws and voila, the bottle brush has now access to all the accumulated crud ;-)
> ...



St. Croix uses plugs and they even sent out a technical bulletin to add another hole in the firebox so one could get to their hard to clean spot.

ETA:  You must know exactly what is where and be very careful because it is easy to puncture a hole that will allow combustion gases to exit the stove where they shouldn't.


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## Snowy Rivers (Mar 13, 2012)

The Quest is a cousin to the Whitfield Prodigy 2 and shares some parts.

Best way to clean that little devil out is to vacuum the stove as is normal, then as mentioned attach the leaf blower suction side to the exhaust pipe.

Leave the stove door open to allow good air flow, turn on the leave blower and the crud thats plugging the stove up will come out really fast.

You can also turn the stove on to allow the exhaust fan to run, this will help dislodge and crap thats in the exhaust housing too.


The leaf blower suckemout trick should be done about once a month for optimal performance..

The larger Whits like the Advantage 1,2, 2T and others have really good access to the ash traps.

Some of the smaller stoves were less accomodating when it comes to cleaning.

Another thing you can do is use an air compressor and blow nozzle. Get a helper to direct air up into the heat tubes (all around in there) while you run the leaf blower.

This will really help clear out the crap.

I have seen stoves so full of ash that they simply could not BREATH any more.

This is one of the most common issues that lead to used pellet stoves winding up for sale cheap on Craigs list.

Cleaning the exhaust fan blades with a soft brush is a good thing. but you also need to suck the thing out with the leaf blower.

Sadly the inner passages collect crap that you can't reach even with a brush.

Goos luck and keep us posted

Snowy


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## Ricks (Mar 13, 2012)

My plan this weekend is to use a brush to clean out the passageways and the leaf blower trick.  My leaf blower does have an attachment to suck up leaves so I will use that to attach the blower to the vent to suck out the soot.

When I removed the combustion motor the gasket broke into several parts I will need to get a new gasket before I can test the stove.

I really like the stove and don't want to replace it, so if I can get it working agian that would be great.  You all have been a big help with the suggestions and given me confidnece the stove will return to its top performance.

Thanks

Rick.......


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## DexterDay (Mar 13, 2012)

That gasket is more thank likely a standard gasket (depending on which one you removed). If you just removed the motor, plate, and impeller, then it should be a standard 6" gasket

Your local Stove/Hearth Shop should have it. Also, try and seal your suction/vacuum side of your leafblower to the vent as well as possible. I only use my leafblower for the pellet stoves (electric one, I have a Gas unit for blowing leaves), so I put a 3" to 4" PVC adapter on the suction side, for a good tight fit.


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## Ricks (Mar 13, 2012)

DexterDay, 

I just removed the motor, plate, and impeller.  And it does look like a 6" gasket.  I have had two different types of gaskets on this blower.  the first one was cardboard like with a silver coating on both sides.  When I replaced the housing, motor, plate, and impeller the new asket was a string like felt.  And that is the gasket that fell apart when I took the plate, motor, and impeller off.

The local store carries Quadra Fire pellet stoves.  I person I spoke to (not the most knowledgeable) said the combustion blower gaskets are shaped and have special cut outs.  So I guess I will have to visit them.  I am hoping if I bring in the motor, plate, and impeller I can match the gaskets up.

Thanks for the suggestion about a 3" to 4" PVC adapter.  That will save me a trip to the store.

Rick.........


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## DexterDay (Mar 13, 2012)

I have bought 6" Whitefield gaskets off of ebay for my Quadrafire. A 6" gasket with 6 holes os what most stoves use.  Others either dont use one (Harman) or some have special rubber-like reusable ones (Mt. Vernon). 

Take the motor and plate with you. The Quad one should fit. My Englander,  Quad, and my Fahrenheit all use the same 6" gasket.......

As for the leafblower, if your gonna make it permanent, then use liquid nails or some other sealant, in the gap of the adapter and the suction tube. If its not gonna be permanent,  then I would suggest Duct tape to get a good seal.


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## Ricks (Mar 14, 2012)

Stellep,

To clean the horizontal passage way beneath the firebox it is a correct assumption I need to insert the brush in via the combustion blower (watching the damper)?

Taking the day off tomorrow to attack the stove.  Clean the passageways and leaf blower trick.

thanks

Rick...........


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## wwert (Mar 14, 2012)

There is also gasket that comes on a roll that is sticky on one side. It looks like flat door gasket and has a strippable paper over the adhesive side. I use it for combustion fan motors so they are removable to clean and you don't have to replace the gasket every year.


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## DexterDay (Mar 14, 2012)

wwert said:
			
		

> There is also gasket that comes on a roll that is sticky on one side. It looks like flat door gasket and has a strippable paper over the adhesive side. I use it for combustion fan motors so they are removable to clean and you don't have to replace the gasket every year.



I used a 5/8" flat (tape) gasket for my burn pot gasket on my Quadrafire. Works like a charm. Stays on the pot and doesn't need replaced every time I pull it (once a year). 

Make sure you get it positioned right if you go this route.


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## stellep (Mar 15, 2012)

Ricks said:
			
		

> Stellep,
> 
> To clean the horizontal passage way beneath the firebox it is a correct assumption I need to insert the brush in via the combustion blower (watching the damper)?
> 
> ...



Yup.  Open the damper all the way and go into the horizontal passage from the damper side to the control panel side.  Do both verticals from the top of the firebox down to either end of the horizontal.  Vac out the vacuum inlet (1/8 inch tube or so) to the left of the damper while you are at it.  Disconnect the vacuum tube first to protect the switch.  You'll see the rubber tube to the left top of the damper.  It can be a challenge to disconnect.  There's not much room.  Watch your fingers.
Happy burn.


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## stellep (Mar 15, 2012)

I forgot.  Disconnect the vacuum switch tube at the vacuum switch over by the control panel instead of at the damper.  It looks like a sideways flying saucer with a rubber tube and a couple or wires connected to it.  Saves bloodletting this way.  Ask me how I know this.


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## DexterDay (Mar 16, 2012)

Do we have an update yet?? 

Just wondering if you got the leafblower put on? And a new gasket installed??


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## Ricks (Mar 16, 2012)

Hi Dexter,

Thanks for asking for an update.

To recap (and let anyone point out a missed step as well.) I have
1.vacuumed out the stove
2. cleaned out the vent
3. removed the Firebrick
4. cleaned the tubes above the burn pot (air blowes through these tubes to heat the room)
5. hit the back of the burn pot area
6. pushed a brush into the combustion blower area to get at the horizontal tube under the burn pot
7. pushed a bursh into the vertical tubes on either side of the burn pot (these connect to the horizontal tube
8. blowed canned air from the pressure switch (by the control panel to the combustion fan. (disconnected the rubber hose and blow through the hose, pressure switch was not connected.)
9. leafblower trick.  I got some soot, but nothing like the pictures I have seen on the site.  Note I did this last so that may have some bearing on the amount of soot.

I did manage to get a good view of the tube that runs under the burnpot and it did not appear to be clogged.

I have purchased the gasket but not installed it yet.  I did call the store where I purchased the stove and recieved some troubling news.  It seems he has another customer with the same stove (and about the same age) with the same problem.  The store owner has talked to Lennox but no solution yet.

I hope to get the stove back together today and try it again.  I will post an update then.

In the mean time if anyone has any suggestions please let me know.

thanks

Rick.......


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## Ricks (Mar 16, 2012)

I will admit to getting discouraged when I talked to the store owner and he reported he has a customer with the same stove having the same problem.  This store owner has been selling Whitfield (now Lennox) stoves for many years and is very familiar with them.  Lennox did have the store owner try many of the same suggestions that I have been given, but he has not see nany improvement in the stove.

Rick..........


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## SmokeyTheBear (Mar 16, 2012)

Do us and likely you a favor, please snap a picture inside your firebox pointing up at the heat exchanger tubing, and post it.


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## Ricks (Mar 16, 2012)

I just got off the phone with Lennox and the second tech I spoke to had two suggestions.  The first has been suggested here; and that was to hit the back of the stove behind the firebrick.  I have done that repeatedly and not seen any soot fall or been able to see a difference.

The tech is telling me the stove is blocked with soot; even though the exhaust blower is working fine and pushing air out the vent as much as it ever did.

The other suggestion was to drill (yes drill) a one inch hole into the back of the stove behind the firebrick.  I am waiting on the specific directions to locate the hole (should have them early next week).  If anyone has heard of this or done this I would appreciate some assistance.

I will try and post a picture of the heat exchanger.  It is clean, but maybe someone can spot something.

I will keep you posted.

Rick………….


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## SmokeyTheBear (Mar 16, 2012)

Ricks said:


> I just got off the phone with Lennox and the second tech I spoke to had two suggestions. The first has been suggested here; and that was to hit the back of the stove behind the firebrick. I have done that repeatedly and not seen any soot fall or been able to see a difference.
> 
> The tech is telling me the stove is blocked with soot; even though the exhaust blower is working fine and pushing air out the vent as much as it ever did.
> 
> ...


 

You mean that Lennox is putting forth the ole St. Croix style fix for hard to clean areas as outlined here: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/older-whitfield-quest-lazy-flame.84651/page-2#post-1089336 .

Who would have thunk that  ?


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## Heatsource (Mar 16, 2012)

sounds like the original blower motor, are you sure its up to snuff?


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## Ricks (Mar 16, 2012)

The blower motor was replaced three to five years ago.  When the blower is on, the force of air coming out of the vent is strong.  As strong as I remember when the blower was replaced.

Rick.......


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## DexterDay (Mar 16, 2012)

You say you have the gasket?? But you also said that the Air coming out of the vent is very stong??

Have you fired the stove up? How do you know that it isnt clean now after the leafblower.

That hole is the "trouble spot" on this unit. But after all you have done, its possible you may have got the "plug". The air coming out, has to come in. If air cant come in, then the stove can't blow it out..... ???? Direct correlation between the two.

If all else is done. Then I would install the gasket and fire it up. With the damper Wide Open on start up (or closed some, depending on the amount of airflow gained through your efforts). Your waiting on the diagrams/instructions for the hole?? Couldn't hurt to try?


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## Ricks (Mar 17, 2012)

I was asked to provide a picture of my heat exchange tubes.  I took this wihile the stove was apart for cleaning so some parts are missing.  But as you can see the heat exchagne tubes are clean. At the far left and right beside the top of the heat exchange tubes you can see the openings for the vertical tubes.  I was able to push a brush down inside them.





Now for the good news and an apology.

First after cleaning the stove (as outlined in an earlier post above), hitting on the back of the stove behind the firebrick and the leaf blower trick I HAVE A WORKING STOVE!!

I am sorry I did not follow the advice I was given here right away.  Clearly I would have reach this conclusion sooner if I had.  Thanks DexterDay for pushing me.  I was relying on Lennox to help solve my problem, when clearly my problem was solved by members here.  So again I am sorry I did not follow the advice sooner.

The members here were able to solve my problem faster, cleaner, and cheaper than Lennox could.  (Remember Lennox wants me to drill a hole in my stove potentially destroying the stove.)

Thanks all for your help (and escpecially DexterDay for pushing me to test the stove).

If I had to guess I think it was the leaf blower trick that fix the stove.

I HAVE A WORKING STOVE

thanks again

Rick........


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## DexterDay (Mar 17, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear, stellep, wwert, and others helped just as much....

Remember. That hole is on newer models amd may be a good idea to still look into (I would). 

Glad its working for ya


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## DexterDay (Mar 17, 2012)

I wouod call theat stove shop and maybe give them some pointers on how to repair the customers stove that was acting like yours was?? 

Maybe school them a little on the ways of a rubber mallet and a leafblower!! LOL


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## SmokeyTheBear (Mar 17, 2012)

Lennox wouldn't recommend drilling without the proper location and procedure being provided.  They likely were going to drill a hole to provide an access point closer to the bottom of the ash trap.

I was the one who wanted the picture (so the eyes here could check your brush work, etc ...).

A clean stove is a happy, safe, and warm stove.

Enjoy the heat.


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## Ricks (Mar 17, 2012)

Two hours later the stove is still burning great.  Not that I need it it is 60 degrees outside, but I want to test the stove.

I will be talking to the store on Monday to help them out.  I do plan on following up with Lennox on the location of the hole.  The fact that they want me to drill a hole tells me that are aware of an area in the stove that is hard to clean.  That said as long as the leafblower trick works for me I have no plans on drilling the hole.

Thanks again for all the help.  The house will be much warmer next year.  While the stove is not our primary heat, we do use it to replace the propane radiant heat the house has.  We love the radiant heat in the floors, but hate the propane bill.  Using the pellet stove allows us to keep the propane bills manageable.

Thanks for all who helped out, I really appreciate it.

Once I get the information about the hole location I will post it on this site.

Rick........


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## wwert (Mar 18, 2012)

And the moral of the story is? Keep your damn stove clean. These are not wood stoves, they like consistent attention and a good ash vac applied daily.


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