# Did the cleaning, made a custom baffle gasket, shes cooking now.



## Hogwildz (Oct 29, 2008)

Did my cleaning this past Sunday. Even took off the surround, side grilles, top shelf & ash shelf.
Painted the air fins on top black and the front inner corners of the casing black. Spent some time on her, now its humming along and I am enjoying.
First off, about screened chimney caps. Here are photos of mine last cleaned New Years last year, burned until almost up to May last year and started up evening fires last week. Burning most of today & yesterday as it has been chilly here. So much for the build up theories. I say it comes down to the wood you burn, how dry and how it is burnt!
Cap before & after. NANANANA


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## BrotherBart (Oct 29, 2008)

The chimney fires kept that screen really clean.  :lol:


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## Hogwildz (Oct 29, 2008)

Now on to the brushing.
I use a metal brush, oh myyyy look at all those scratches! "It will never last 20 or 30 years"...................
I'll run right out and grab a "poly" brush,,,,,,,,,,,,,, uhuh right.
A shot of my cleaning weapon of choice & how low can it go?


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## Hogwildz (Oct 29, 2008)

BrotherBart said:
			
		

> The chimney fires kept that screen really clean.  :lol:


Makes for good weanie roasting too


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## Hogwildz (Oct 29, 2008)

Oh yeah, while your up cleaning, make sure the storm collar is sealed well.
And hers a few shots of my ladder set up. I do have it made for cleaning I must say.


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## Hogwildz (Oct 29, 2008)

Here is the massive amount of soot I gathered from sweeping.
I just spread it in the bottom of the firebox with. No fuss no muss.


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## BrotherBart (Oct 29, 2008)

Lookin good big'un.


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## Hogwildz (Oct 29, 2008)

On to the baffle.
All you PE Summit & Aldera owners here is what your baffle is comprised of:
S.S. shell, insulation blanket on top, s.s. heat shield on top of blanket. Another S.S. heat shield on underside of stove top also.
Last shot if it comes in right order, is the secondary air opening in the bottom rear underside of the baffle. THis sits over the vertical channel at back of the stove. And rests on the gasket.


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## Hogwildz (Oct 29, 2008)

BrotherBart said:
			
		

> Lookin good big'un.


UMMM, UGGA UGGA whatum be thatum red word above your name?????????????????


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## Hogwildz (Oct 29, 2008)

And now the piece de resistance.............
The Neanderthal style Summit baffle gasket.
Hand semi braided/ semi tied and itchy fingers afterwards.
Secondary channel naked..................
Secondary channel newly clothed with the Custom Caveman gasket..................
And a shot of the pc of crap gasket PE sells.


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## North of 60 (Oct 29, 2008)

SCI here!  (stove scene investigations) I see a few scratches from cleaning that cap RHS pict. :coolsmirk:


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## Hogwildz (Oct 29, 2008)

Re-install baffle on new improved gasket,
sets down nicely no gap in back, confirming its seated and not raised any more than the normal gasket. And don't forget to RE-INSERT THE BAFFLE PIN!
And a shot of PE's replacement gasket. You be the judge.


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## Hogwildz (Oct 29, 2008)

And a shot of the painted top casing air deflectors & the corners also painted. I should have painted all the visible casing inside when the surround was off, but oh well next time.


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## Hogwildz (Oct 29, 2008)

north of 60 said:
			
		

> SCI here!  (stove scene investigations) I see a few scratches from cleaning that cap RHS pict. :coolsmirk:


You sure do. Have to leave something for all that creosote to grab onto 

I did slide the screen out a tad to get the wire brush where the screen sets. Knowing the whole time the end of the screen was going to puncture a finger.
Welp, my left thumb took one for the team. Maybe I should have gotten updated on my Tetnus shot??? Oh well, I guess I'll know if things start locking up.


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## Hogwildz (Oct 29, 2008)

And lastly for all you speds out there...........
While I was sitting on the peak of the roof, looking around and reflecting on all the zen and sheet up there.
I took a few fall shots around the cave. Fall really is a great time for a few hits of windowpane.


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## North of 60 (Oct 29, 2008)

Nice spread there Hogz. If there was anything on that cap just blame it on that piece of pine you burnt last December. ;-) 
N of 60


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## Hogwildz (Oct 29, 2008)

That pile in the driveway is pine the neighbor brought over. I have no problem burning pine mixed in and shoulder burning.
In the dead of winter, Its mostly Oak for me though. I got a nice load of about 2 cord of red oak I just split for next year.
This year I have about 4 cords or so of mostly white oak, some soft maple, and one was the gnarliest maple I ever split. Its all being burnt, heat is heat.


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## begreen (Oct 29, 2008)

Great pics Hog. I haven't pulled my secondary baffle yet. The baffle shots were really instructive. Now I want to see a night shot with the nuclear glow on the horizon.


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## CK-1 (Oct 29, 2008)

Hogwildz said:
			
		

> And lastly for all you speds out there...........
> While I was sitting on the peak of the roof, looking around and reflecting on all the zen and sheet up there.
> I took a few fall shots around the cave. Fall really is a great time for a few hits of windowpane.



Just finished sweeping my Chimney this past Monday from the inside.    My roof is way too high and pitchy for me to go up there again, unless its an extreme emergency.   I had to nail down support for a small ladder to reach the top of the chimney, similiar to what you did when I installed my full liner.   

It was kinda weird sweeping a chimney under a Wind Advisory....  


Keep us PE Summit folks posted on how the gasket performs..


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## Jags (Oct 29, 2008)

Looking good Hogz.  Nice job on the new gasket (have you been practicing braiding the cave womans hair again?)

Now...if we could just get that unbiased test of the mighty Summit versus the heat belching 30.... :cheese:

Hmm...now that you point it out, something does seem different about BroB's name, just can't quite put my finger on it. :coolsmirk:


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## Hogwildz (Oct 29, 2008)

BeGreen said:
			
		

> Great pics Hog. I haven't pulled my secondary baffle yet. The baffle shots were really instructive. Now I want to see a night shot with the nuclear glow on the horizon.


When a few more leaves come off the trees, I'll get ya some shots of the cloud makers just over the way. Can see it from my home.
Till then, heres some glow action for ya. For those this year about to ask how to get a good, long, hot, overnight burn here is how I do it.
Damn I could only fit 5 splits in the stove. What am I doing wrong??? UGG UGG


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## Hogwildz (Oct 29, 2008)

Secondary burn


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## BrotherBart (Oct 29, 2008)

The fires of Hell!

Lookin good. Methinks the gasket be workin just fine.


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## Hogwildz (Oct 29, 2008)

Thank you BB
the way the vertical channel runs through the back channel, at the front there is a small step down where the two meet, it still lets some out there, which I don't mind the secondary back there either.
Just wondering why its designed that way. Unless they want a secondary going on back there also.
I have a feeling I won't have to replace the custom gasket for a long time. That was my main goal.


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## firefighterjake (Oct 30, 2008)

Hogwildz:

Great post . . . shows the noobs and born-again woodburners what we need to do to properly clean the stove.

Also, loved the pics of the secondary fire . . . and now I realize why I'm not getting overnight fires . . . I'm not using the biggest splits and rounds that I have . . . just loading it up with small/medium splits.


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## Hogwildz (Oct 31, 2008)

firefighterjake said:
			
		

> Hogwildz:
> 
> Great post . . . shows the noobs and born-again woodburners what we need to do to properly clean the stove.
> 
> Also, loved the pics of the secondary fire . . . and now I realize why I'm not getting overnight fires . . . I'm not using the biggest splits and rounds that I have . . . just loading it up with small/medium splits.



Small & mediums for me won't cut it for a good overnight burn. They will burn hot yes, but not long, well not as long as big splits.
That one round was about 9" or so. I split the wood last year for big rectangular splits specifically for overnight burns. I am still burning crap wood up first though.
I am going with the rectangular and square splits to get as much spaced packed up as possible. Rounds do work good also but ya get some unusable space also.
If I have any space left on top, then I add mediums & smalls to fill any gaps.


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## madison (Nov 1, 2008)

thanks for the pics and great tutorial.  one question, what is the diameter of the gasket material?  thanks in advance


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## Hogwildz (Nov 1, 2008)

madison said:
			
		

> thanks for the pics and great tutorial.  one question, what is the diameter of the gasket material?  thanks in advance



I think it is 3/8"


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## madison (Nov 1, 2008)

muchos "garcias"


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## iceman (Nov 1, 2008)

great job hog!
why do you have the extra length on top the chimney? was that to help draft?
now i gotta get some 3/8 and make one too good idea!! and helluva fire!!


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## Hogwildz (Nov 2, 2008)

iceman said:
			
		

> great job hog!
> why do you have the extra length on top the chimney? was that to help draft?
> now i gotta get some 3/8 and make one too good idea!! and helluva fire!!


Well with the rigid, I wanted to make sure I had enough. The seam is about 6" or so below the top of the clay tile.
I prolly could have gotten away with a 1' section, but would rather have been too long than too short.
Some day I may see if 1' will clear, but for now Its good for me.


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## CK-1 (Nov 3, 2008)

Hogwildz,

Quick question.  The insulation blanket that makes up the baffle, why not use that material to make your baffle gasket?.   Seems like it would have been easier to work with...


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## Hogwildz (Nov 4, 2008)

CK-1 said:
			
		

> Hogwildz,
> 
> Quick question.  The insulation blanket that makes up the baffle, why not use that material to make your baffle gasket?.   Seems like it would have been easier to work with...



I don't have any laying around. Its too fragile & compressible. The original gasket material may be some variation of that.
I had the rope gasket & wanted something that I can continually reuse after each seasons cleaning. And it was free.


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## madison (Jul 29, 2009)

I am about to replace my toasted baffle gasket.

When perusing the NorthlineExpress website, I noticed that they have 11/16" Wide "Grapho-Glas Flat woodstove gasket Tape".  http://www.northlineexpress.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=5RU-93

Has anyone examined this material?  And would like to add an opinion if this material would work for replacement of the Summit/Alderlea baffle gasket? Specifically, it's thickness compared to the OEM gasket vs Hog's 3/8" modification.

Also, any opinions on various glue/adhesives for cementing door gaskets? 
http://www.northlineexpress.com/category/woodstove-gaskets.asp

Hog, how did the 3/8" gasket hold up this past season?

Thanks in advance


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## madison (Jul 29, 2009)

Duh!  I just realized that fashioning the corners of the rectangular gasket with the flat tape would be impossible.

Hog, rather than weaving the two ends of the 3/8" gasket material, do you think that you could use the gasket cement to join the two ends of the gasket?

Also, any opinions on the various gasket cements?


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## begreen (Jul 30, 2009)

Actually, the issue is the 11/16" width. The PE gasket is only about 3 or 4/16ths wide. And door window gasket is usually pretty thin. Maybe the graphite gasket could be cut down the middle? Making corners is easy. Cut out the 45 deg. bevels.


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## John_M (Jul 30, 2009)

One picture IS worth a thousand words, Hogwildz. You just proved it. Well done and very informative post.

Thank You.

John_M


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## madison (Jul 30, 2009)

BeGreen said:
			
		

> Actually, the issue is the 11/16" width. The PE gasket is only about 3 or 4/16ths wide. And door window gasket is usually pretty thin. Maybe the graphite gasket could be cut down the middle? Making corners is easy. Cut out the 45 deg. bevels.



Duh!....  Again.  Seems like  the 3/8" rope would be more sturdy, rather than cutting the corners and ripping the width of the tape. 

Thanks for the observations.


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## CK-1 (Jul 31, 2009)

Why not make the gasket of out Kaowool?..


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## madison (Jul 31, 2009)

CK-1 said:
			
		

> Why not make the gasket of out Kaowool?..



Thanks, did a quick search, but only found $400 rolls...  Any link or source to find smaller quantities?


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## Hogwildz (Aug 1, 2009)

You can try the furnace cement, but I think your going to find it break off and falls apart.
I dont know that for sure, but thats what I imagine happening.
I have not cleaned her yet, which I need to do soon. I'll report how it held up when I get it apart & check the home made gasket.


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## CK-1 (Aug 9, 2009)

madison said:
			
		

> CK-1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Just did a quick search to find this..  Could be better deals out there.. etc..

http://cgi.ebay.com/Kaowool-Ceramic-Fiber-Blank--2300-1"x24"x25'-8#-dens-rl_W0QQitemZ130314582957QQcmdZViewItem


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## madison (Aug 14, 2009)

Hogwildz said:
			
		

> And now the piece de resistance.............
> The Neanderthal style Summit baffle gasket.
> Hand semi braided/ semi tied and itchy fingers afterwards.
> Secondary channel naked..................
> ...



Just got done creating the "Hogasket" with 3/8" rope gasket. It took about 5 minutes to tie it up, I used latex gloves to prevent the itchy fingers.  First try ended up being a little bit oversized, so I chopped out the knots, and retied.

Impressive amount (~1/4") of compacted ash dust was on top of the baffle!

Pretty simple task,  thanks a ton for the great outline and pics.

Still wondering how the "Hogasket" will hold up, can't be any worse than the OEM gasket.  There was only a couple fragments remaining of the OEM gasket when I removed the baffle...


Thanks again.


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## Ratman (Aug 14, 2009)

We used to run a bike shop in Manchester, NH named Hog Wild

Attended the owners full Military Funeral today.
Saw action in Bay of Pigs.
He thought of the name and his son ran the place and I helped out.
I love the name.


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## madison (Aug 15, 2009)

One small issue noted when repositioning the baffle,  is the baffle pin holes do not exactly line up, as the 3/8" gasket raises the baffle a bit more than the OEM gasket.  I believe that the weight of the baffle is most likely enough to keep it in place without the pin, OR I could drill/enlarge the baffle pin holes. 

Which when I relook at Hog's pictures in this thread, it appears that a second hole for the baffle pin was created?


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## madison (Aug 15, 2009)

One small issue noted when repositioning the baffle on the new rope gasket,  is the baffle pin holes do not exactly line up, as the 3/8" gasket raises the baffle a bit more than the OEM gasket.  I believe that the weight of the baffle is most likely enough to keep it in place without the pin, OR I could drill/enlarge the baffle pin holes. 

Which when I relook at Hog's pictures in this thread, it appears that a second hole for the baffle pin was created?


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## Hogwildz (Aug 16, 2009)

madison said:
			
		

> One small issue noted when repositioning the baffle,  is the baffle pin holes do not exactly line up, as the 3/8" gasket raises the baffle a bit more than the OEM gasket.  I believe that the weight of the baffle is most likely enough to keep it in place without the pin, OR I could drill/enlarge the baffle pin holes.
> 
> Which when I relook at Hog's pictures in this thread, it appears that a second hole for the baffle pin was created?



Actually, the offset holes on the baffle for pin were from factory, not my doing.
The gasket should compress enough to allow for the pin to be inserted.


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## madison (Aug 16, 2009)

Hogwildz said:
			
		

> The gasket should compress enough to allow for the pin to be inserted.



Correct, I put a small screw driver in and realinged/compressed the gasket, thanks.


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## madison (Sep 4, 2009)

PE replacement gasket, Hog style...

Hog, have you checked your gasket after one yr?  Curious to see a cpl pics if you get to it.

thanx


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## Hogwildz (Sep 4, 2009)

Yeap, gasket is like new. No more yearly replacements.
See this thread with attached photo........ https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/40803/


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## nodtmf (Jul 13, 2011)

Oh hi,

Well thought I would give this thread a bump with regards to the baffle gasket. I want to make the rope style gasket and was thinking of using silicon to "glue" the ends together. I figured I would overlap the ends, slitting each end such that I remove the top layer  from one end and the bottom layer from the other end, maybe 1/2 inch back from the ends. Then add a little bit of silicon between the layers to hold. I'm thinking this would be easier than braiding the ends together.

Any thoughts?


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## Jags (Jul 13, 2011)

nodtmf said:
			
		

> Any thoughts?



Do you know how many brain cells I have drank away since 2009?

Anyhow, the blue stuff might work to get it installed, but it is not going to hold up long term.  That gasket is gonna see some serious long term heat.


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## Sisu (Jul 13, 2011)

Ditto.  The gasket will face temperatures greater than what the silicon can take.  Another alternative is to cut  a makeshift gasket from a batt of Roxul insulation.  Just make sure to use a serrated blade.


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## CK-1 (Jul 21, 2011)

Thats what I did.  I can see some of the gasket overlap when I open the stove.   Still working strong!..


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## GeneralBill (Aug 15, 2011)

I read with great interest the method employed by Hogwildz. After my 1st year of use, the gasket looks shot. Those darn gaskets are $8 at the local shop and the gal said they gave up replacing them on cleanings. A previous thread said $3.50 each, but inflation and the fall of the US/Canadian currency...

I did not feel comfortable making the fiberglass ring. Probably because I can never seem to score above "caveman" in IQ tests. So here's another method that seemed to work on the Summit (which has a horizontal connection so it may be easier).

I unwound some door rope; it unwinds very easily into sub-threads. With about a 2 foot thread, I wrapped it around the firebox protrusion (that goes into the baffle) a few times and tied it in front. The Summit box has a lower cut at front so the knot does not make the new gasket un-level. Then, after measuring this circular gasket, I wound up another just a bit looser so it sits around the first rope-gasket.

I'll try it out and report next year. Hope to make some pictures, but a chore is calling right now.


Many thanks to Hog for the report and encouragement,

Bill


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## jackatc1 (Aug 17, 2011)

HI all,i have been lurking for years ,great site.

3 years ago my baffle gasket on my summit insert disappeared.

I have been burning ever since, with no problems , that i am aware of.

Is this part really necessary?


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## Jags (Aug 18, 2011)

jackatc1 said:
			
		

> Is this part really necessary?



Mfg's don't usually add unnecessary parts to simple products.  Yep, it should be there.  You are loosing efficiency without it.  Smoke will travel the path of least resistance, and you just opened up a window for it.


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## djlarson77 (Sep 2, 2012)

I Just replaced the baffle gasket using the Hogwildz method.  Bought 6' of 3/8" fiberglass gasket from menards ($5.99 I think). Was a little tricky weaving / tying it together, but wasn't too difficult in the end.  The difficulty came in getting it to compress enough to get the pin in.  After multiple attempts of prying with a screw driver, using a wire through the hole to pull down on, and a bunch of other stupid ideas....I pulled the gasket out and put it in a vise.  That flattened it out enough to get the pin in.  Hopefully this gasket holds up better than the PE junk that was in there for 2 years.

I'm wondering how Alderlea owners are cleaning their chimneys.  the first two times I removed the double-wall black piping form just above the stove to the ceiling and taped a bag to the pipe up near the ceiling.  This was not the easiest process - trying to put the pipe back together and line up the screw holes.  It seemed a lot easier to clean it with the baffle removed, which is the way I plan to do it going forward...just curious.


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## etiger2007 (Sep 2, 2012)

Hog how long have you had that insert and how often do you clean it like that?, great job.


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