# Exterior Metal Chimney



## BuckyBeaver (May 4, 2012)

I am installing a Woodstock Progress Hybrid Stove and an exterior double walled insulated stainless steel chimney system.  I have no other choice on the chimney, it must be an exterior setup.  The stove pipe will go right out the back of the stove, through the exterior wall, and straight up 21 feet.  I am a little concerned about having a stong draft with an exterior chimney.  Has anyone else gone this route?  And if so, what were your results?  Thanks in advance for your input.


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## pen (May 4, 2012)

Lots of people run that setup without a problem.  Considering the the length and a 90 degree turn before it can actually go up the chimney itself, I don't think you'll see an overdraft and that sounds about like a perfect height.

Just make sure you maintain the chimney system as being 3 foot higher than the roof it is penetrating, and that the top of the system is 2 feet higher than anything within 10 feet around the cap.

pen


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## firefighterjake (May 4, 2012)

Both Backwoods (with his Woodstock Fireview) and me (Jotul Oslo) have similar set ups . . . I don't know how Dennis' chimney goes, but mine goes up about 3 feet before going out through the wall and then up . . .

Originally I had concerns about draft, creosote production and missing the heat I would have gained by having the chimney inside . . . but I have since found out that the draft works well (just do like Pen suggested), creosote is not an issue (of course it also helps to burn well seasoned wood and burn at the right temps) and while I may not scavenge the heat from the chimney -- truth is I get plenty of heat from the woodstove where the bulk of the heat is made.

A nice benefit of an outside chimney is that you can put a T-connection with a cap . . . and often do a pretty decent clean from the ground. I can sweep my chimney in 10 minutes or so from the ground which is pretty handy.


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## Backwoods Savage (May 4, 2012)

Congratulations on your new stove BuckyBeaver.

Our chimney goes straight out the back of the stove to the outside Tee.

Be sure you make the horizontal section have at least 1/4" rise per foot of horizontal. We went around 1/2" rise. Our chimney is shorter but we have no draft problems.


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## BuckyBeaver (May 4, 2012)

firefighterjake said:


> Both Backwoods (with his Woodstock Fireview) and me (Jotul Oslo) have similar set ups . . . I don't know how Dennis' chimney goes, but mine goes up about 3 feet before going out through the wall and then up . . .
> 
> Originally I had concerns about draft, creosote production and missing the heat I would have gained by having the chimney inside . . . but I have since found out that the draft works well (just do like Pen suggested), creosote is not an issue (of course it also helps to burn well seasoned wood and burn at the right temps) and while I may not scavenge the heat from the chimney -- truth is I get plenty of heat from the woodstove where the bulk of the heat is made.
> 
> A nice benefit of an outside chimney is that you can put a T-connection with a cap . . . and often do a pretty decent clean from the ground. I can sweep my chimney in 10 minutes or so from the ground which is pretty handy.


thanks Firefighterjake.  I really appreciate your input.


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## BuckyBeaver (May 4, 2012)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Congratulations on your new stove BuckyBeaver.
> 
> Our chimney goes straight out the back of the stove to the outside Tee.
> 
> Be sure you make the horizontal section have at least 1/4" rise per foot of horizontal. We went around 1/2" rise. Our chimney is shorter but we have no draft problems.


Thanks backwoods Savage.  Did you build a chase around your chimney?  If so, did you insulate it?


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## Halligan (May 4, 2012)

I just recently installed a Jotul Oslo which I rear vent throught the wall and then straight up 23 feet of pipe. So far so good but since the install I've only been burning in milder tempatures. The coldest I've burned is around 40 degrees so I can't comment on what will happen when it's 10 degrees. I do like having the exterior tee so I can clean out the pipe myself from the ground. Good luck with the new stove.


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## BuckyBeaver (May 4, 2012)

Halligan said:


> I just recently installed a Jotul Oslo which I rear vent throught the wall and then straight up 23 feet of pipe. So far so good but since the install I've only been burning in milder tempatures. The coldest I've burned is around 40 degrees so I can't comment on what will happen when it's 10 degrees. I do like having the exterior tee so I can clean out the pipe myself from the ground. Good luck with the new stove.


thanks Halligan


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## unhdsm (May 4, 2012)

I have that setup w/ the Shelburne.  The only issue I notice is when the stove isn't running and it is less than 20 degrees outside, it is slow to get a draft going.  It takes about 20 minutes to get the chimney warmed-up.  After that there is never ever a problem.  Creosote has not been a problem either in the two years with this setup.


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## BuckyBeaver (May 5, 2012)

unhdsm said:


> I have that setup w/ the Shelburne. The only issue I notice is when the stove isn't running and it is less than 20 degrees outside, it is slow to get a draft going. It takes about 20 minutes to get the chimney warmed-up. After that there is never ever a problem. Creosote has not been a problem either in the two years with this setup.


 thanks unhdsm


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## Backwoods Savage (May 5, 2012)

BuckyBeaver said:


> Thanks backwoods Savage. Did you build a chase around your chimney? If so, did you insulate it?


 
Bucky, we did consider a chase but we've had the outdoor chimney before with no problems so we did not build a chase. For heating it is not needed so I say put up a chase only if you want it for looks.


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## BuckyBeaver (May 5, 2012)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Bucky, we did consider a chase but we've had the outdoor chimney before with no problems so we did not build a chase. For heating it is not needed so I say put up a chase only if you want it for looks.


thanks Savage


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## firefighterjake (May 7, 2012)

BuckyBeaver said:


> Thanks backwoods Savage. Did you build a chase around your chimney? If so, did you insulate it?


 
Originally I  was going to build a chase just for the looks . . . but then I realized after a short time that a) I didn't really mind the look of the shiny metal and b) due to the layout of the house and position of the chimney you cannot really see much of the chimney from the road or any point around the house unless you're standing on the side of the house looking directly at the chimney. I opted to save my money and not build a chase.


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## DexterDay (May 7, 2012)

This was my 1st yr burning in a woodstove (have a Pre-Fab upstairs) and I have 18 ft of Triple wall Simpson outside. 

Works great.... Good draft and easy to clean.

As others stated. Wrap it with a chase if needed (looks and some insulation) but not needed. I like the look of my Class A going up the side... 

That Progress is a beautiful stove. Should serve you well


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## BuckyBeaver (May 8, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> This was my 1st yr burning in a woodstove (have a Pre-Fab upstairs) and I have 18 ft of Triple wall Simpson outside.
> 
> Works great.... Good draft and easy to clean.
> 
> ...


Thanks DexterDay....your setup looks good.


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## Brian (Sep 25, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> This was my 1st yr burning in a woodstove (have a Pre-Fab upstairs) and I have 18 ft of Triple wall Simpson outside.
> 
> Works great.... Good draft and easy to clean.
> 
> ...


 Dexter,I have almost the exact set up as you that I just finished installing,I'm curious as to how hot that tee section gets when you have a ripping fire...I only have double wall,so mine will be warmer but I'm concerned that it's so low that leaves may get around there at times and ignite...


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## fire_man (Sep 26, 2012)

Bucky:

I would not worry about an overdraft with that setup. I switched from the Fireview to the Progress and noticed a definite drop in draft with a 15 foot exterior 6" SS uninsulated liner. The Progress has lower flue temperatures than the Fireview, so I really believe this stove wants to see good flue height and an insulated system, both of which you should have.


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## DexterDay (Sep 26, 2012)

fire_man said:


> Dexter:
> 
> I would not worry about an overdraft with that setup. I switched from the Fireview to the Progress and noticed a definite drop in draft with a 15 foot exterior 6" SS uninsulated liner. The Progress has lower flue temperatures than the Fireview, so I really believe this stove wants to see good flue height and an insulated system, both of which you have. That's a nice looking install! Please let us know how it works out.



I have an Englander 30-NC.

The OP was BuckyBeaver, he is getting the Progress.




Brian said:


> Dexter,I have almost the exact set up as you that I just finished installing,I'm curious as to how hot that tee section gets when you have a ripping fire...I only have double wall,so mine will be warmer but I'm concerned that it's so low that leaves may get around there at times and ignite...



No worries about the heat. My Class A doesn't even get warm to the touch and the clean out cap on the bottom, isn't much of a worry either. The gases and heat rise.  As long as you abide by all clearances, all should ne well 

Looking forward to pics.


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## BobUrban (Sep 26, 2012)

Mine goes thru the house and straight up but I think the oustide has some advantages regarding cleaning due to it being outside.  I think, if possible, it would be nice to go up and out if you are on the ground floor with the stove so you can clean from the bottom but that is just a thought.  Not needing to get out a ladder and subsequent risk involved climbing said ladder in the winter would be a nice feature given the option upon install. 

For the record I clean mine from inside the house with limited mess - much less than I expected.


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## Woody Stover (Sep 26, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> I have 18 ft of Triple wall Simpson outside.


What carries the weight on that setup, the roof brackets?


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## begreen (Sep 26, 2012)

Had the same question. The tee support bracket appears to be missing.


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## DexterDay (Sep 26, 2012)

Woody Stover said:


> What carries the weight on that setup, the roof brackets?



The T support is there. Hidden by plantlife. Tap-cons holding it into the block. Had to dig a little out from under it and laid down some pavers. Not to bad to get to the clean out cap. 

Still hard to see here. But this pic is from install.


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## ScotO (Sep 26, 2012)

We have around 4 feet of vertical single wall in the house, and 18 feet of stainless Class A outside.  We live at the foot of a large open field that is more-or-less at the foot of the mountain, and we have no overdraft issues whatsoever.  I think you have about the ideal height on your setup, you should be fine.  Worst case scenario, if you have an overdraft issue, you could always get a damper......


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## Backwoods Savage (Sep 26, 2012)

BuckyBeaver said:


> Thanks backwoods Savage. Did you build a chase around your chimney? If so, did you insulate it?


 
No chase, This is not the first chimney we've had running up the outside of the house and we've never had a chase. Just insulated pipe. The lowest outside temperature we've experienced when having the chimney like this was 30 below zero. No problem at all.


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## Heatsource (Sep 26, 2012)

if its on the lower level of a 2 story home you might consider the OAK, as stack effect causes poor performance in some of these installations in my experience


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