# Vogelzang VG-5790



## Kurlus (Jan 12, 2015)

I'm not going to make a horribly long drawn out post about every problem I had with now 2 of these stoves unless people want more info but here's a review I posted on Tractor Supply and Amazon concerning these stoves and US Stove company.

I purchased one of these VG-5790's from Tractor Supply in early November, installed it on 11/16 and had problems from day 1. My unit was burning 3 bags a day on low and producing very little heat, after messing with it for a couple days I contacted US Stove.

It took me until the 20th to get a hold of anyone at the company then all they asked for was my warranty info. On the 25th I finally got an email asking me what Customer Support and I had decided they needed to send me to fix my problem. A week later they sent me a repaired Control Board in the mail, which was a hack job. If you ever, ever receive any electronics like this, please do not use it. Pictures will be included in the review.

Notice the excess solder on the main trace across the board and all of the FLUX residue covering the board. Any FLUX on a circuit board is a defective product and cannot be sold, even your Alarm Clock made in China has to pass that standard. USStove authorized ME to repair it MYSELF. Once repaired and installed, the original board that came with the stove was actually in worse condition than the replacement, but at least then it only burned 2 bags a day, on low.

Customer service, after a month of burning 3 bags a day, finally broke down and sent me a new one. The one I received operates even worse than the original one.

I’ve been attempting to contact them since 1/1/2015 but they won’t return my calls or emails, I finally filed a BBB complaint and made a Youtube video. Note the link to the BBB site which gives USStove Company an “F” Rating.

As today is 1/12 I have used 3 pallets of pellets since 11/16 and my propane fireplace is doing the bulk of the heating. This stove is excellent at taking bags of pellets and turning them into pounds of ash.

Do not buy from US STOVE!

Be sure to check out the vid to see how these VG-5790's run. I'll be posting another soon of my friends VG-5790 that actually runs the right way.


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## IHATEPROPANE (Jan 12, 2015)

Have you tried different pellets?  Some feed significantly faster than others.  Also,  it looks Ile to me you have too much combustion air, is there a way to adjust it?


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## rich2500 (Jan 12, 2015)

According to the manual there is a damper adjustment on the back left side of stove. I agree looks like way to much combustion air.


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## Kurlus (Jan 12, 2015)

I have tried 8 different kinds of pellets.  Insta-Heat, Lignetics, Hamer's, Dry Creek, just to name a few.

It is getting way to much air but here's the funny thing, I've gone to the extent of putting aluminum foil over the intake and restricting the air flow way down, it does give me a bigger flame but it doesn't put out any more heat nor does it slow down the feed rate.  The damper on the back of the stove is the air intake damper, which fully closed is designed to be halfway open.  In the video I posted, I have it completely closed and yet it's still getting way to much air.  Same thing as the last stove.


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## MuchoBueno (Jan 12, 2015)

I've been on the bourbon since 5 this afternoon and that is why I will say this, I would never buy a stove from tractor supply, lowes or HD. No need for me to describe in detail. You veterans know. And you veterans know how to fix a shitty stove from Tractor Supply, Lowes or HD. We, the average citizens, DO NOT. Thats all, over.

EDIT: Kurlus, this is in NO WAY to insult you. It's just that I almost bought a shitty stove from Lowes. I would have I think, at the time, but thank the ALMIGHTY LORD that the salesman was less knowledgeable than this stove rookie.


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## BrotherBart (Jan 12, 2015)

Been burning a wood stove sold by HD since 2006 as the sole heat source for this barn. Pellet stove from Lowe's heats the basement when I need to work down there. Since 2008. 

Ain't had to fix either one of them.

I have been on the single malt since nine o'clock. Bourbon is mouse piss.


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## MuchoBueno (Jan 12, 2015)

BrotherBart said:


> Been burning a wood stove sold by HD since 2006 as the sole heat source for this barn. Pellet stove from Lowe's heats the basement when I need to work down there. Since 2008.
> 
> Ain't had to fix either one of them.
> 
> I have been on the single malt since nine o'clock. Bourbon is mouse piss.


God Bless you brother


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## Kurlus (Jan 12, 2015)

No offense taken.  I bought VG-5790 based on reviews and it was in my price range.  I couldn't afford a $4000 Harman this year LOL.  I just wanted something that would get me through a couple years until I can afford something decent.  Hopefully the BBB pulls thru and I get a refund otherwise I'm not above driving the 829.1 miles from my home in PA to their business in TN.  I've been very nice this whole time but if they wanna play hardball, they've picked the wrong person.  I'll be there with this thing on the back of a truck when they open their shop one morning.


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## MuchoBueno (Jan 12, 2015)

Kurlus said:


> No offense taken.  I bought VG-5790 based on reviews and it was in my price range.  I couldn't afford a $4000 Harman this year LOL.  I just wanted something that would get me through a couple years until I can afford something decent.  Hopefully the BBB pulls thru and I get a refund otherwise I'm not above driving the 829.1 miles from my home in PA to their business in TN.  I've been very nice this whole time but if they wanna play hardball, they've picked the wrong person.  I'll be there with this thing on the back of a truck when they open their shop one morning.


Kurlus, it took me 5 years to finally get my stove. First I went to the dealers. After not having luck getting the right info from them I started researching and looking in the big stores all this while doing my own research. After figuring out that the big box stores do not posses the knowledge for me to purchase and get a stove Instaled in my fireplace, I went back to the specialty stove businesses finally getting a fireplace insert. It has been a long trip finally getting warmth. I think in the end you will be a better stove owner than I simply due to the experience you will gain by learning about your stove than someone like me.

EDIT: I too did and still enjoy scotches and single malts, but tonight with the break with this cold I'm celebrating with some Makers!


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## Kurlus (Jan 12, 2015)

We'll see I guess.  Like I said I hope I get a refund so I can go buy another cheap POS lol.  Was looking at the Pleasant Hearth PH50CABPS to get me thru the rest of this year, definitely nothing more from US Stove Company


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## BrotherBart (Jan 12, 2015)

Kurlus said:


> I'll be there with this thing on the back of a truck when they open their shop one morning.



Be careful. I had a defect in my first 30-NC. Told Mike at ESW that if I got frustrated enough I would drive down there and dump it in their parking lot. Mike said he had heard that before but that he would come out of the office with a piece of rebar in his hand. 

Went down and met my friend Mike, big enough that he doesn't need the rebar, and picked up the new stove. He was going to ship it to me but I got in a hurry and it was only 143 miles from here.


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## Kurlus (Jan 13, 2015)

I'm not threatening but if they don't want to talk to me on the phone, they can talk to me in person.  I'm married with 3 kids, $1500 is a fortune to me.


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## SidecarFlip (Jan 13, 2015)

BrotherBart said:


> Been burning a wood stove sold by HD since 2006 as the sole heat source for this barn. Pellet stove from Lowe's heats the basement when I need to work down there. Since 2008.
> 
> Ain't had to fix either one of them.
> 
> I have been on the single malt since nine o'clock. Bourbon is mouse piss.


 
Sounds to me like your liver could be used for armor plate.........  Alcohol (gelled) makes great fire starter but don't do much for your organs or disposition.


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## SidecarFlip (Jan 13, 2015)

Personally speaking, I believe the Vogelzang line is the cheapo line at USSC.  Far as driving there, they are in Tennesee so it's a haul from Pennsyltucky.

When you buy cheap, all you can expect is cheap.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 13, 2015)

For giggles and such have you measured the juice going to the combustion blower at each heat range setting and timed the auger or verified the augers rotation rate?


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## SidecarFlip (Jan 13, 2015)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> For giggles and such have you measured the juice going to the combustion blower at each heat range setting and timed the auger or verified the augers rotation rate?


 
Not wanting to bet on that.......  IOW, probably not.


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## Kurlus (Jan 13, 2015)

A big Thank You goes out to Owen on the forums.  He got my problem moving again and hopefully soon to a peaceful resolution.  I'll keep you all updated.


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## CladMaster (Jan 13, 2015)

Kurlus said:


> A big Thank You goes out to Owen on the forums.  He got my problem moving again and hopefully soon to a peaceful resolution.  I'll keep you all updated.



Hope you get this sorted.

I sent a message yesterday to Owen when I saw this post and asked if he could help you to get this resolved.

Keep us updated.


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## Kurlus (Jan 13, 2015)

Thanks to you too then Clad!


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## funflyer (Jan 13, 2015)

There's no doubt that there is a problem with the two stoves you had. Hopefully they expedite the refund of your money. Looks like your installation is straight forward so it doesn't appear to be a venting or intake air issue. Regardless of the installation there is no reason the stove should eat 2 bags a day on the lowest manual setting. This company has quality problems that the average tinkerer doesn't have the capability to correct and shouldn't have to. Maybe the company has workers that drink Bourbon on the job, I don't know but it's plausible.
   Now, there is absolutely no reason not buy from the BB stores if you're willing to tinker a bit and are able to make some adjustments (which it sounds like you are) to get the best performance from a lower priced stove that has been a proven performer. When I bought my new, but out of production for several years, Englander Home Depot stove, I wanted to see what made it tick so I broke out a few tools. I had to tighten up a few screws, vacuum up some loose weld slag, tie up a few wires and add some extra RTV where I thought necessary. The stove heats my 1800sf home to 70+ degrees even with temps outside temps down to single digits. The highest pellet use I have seen is 1 bag per day and usualy will go 2 days on a bag. The highest heat level I need to use is 5 but most of the time it is on 1 or 2.
   Some people have too much money and feel the need to buy Salvatore Ferragamo Loafers so they don't ever have to bend over but I prefer to learn to tie my shoes. Personally when it comes to stoves, I would rather keep a few grand in my pocket and tinker a bit.


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## Johnny_Fiv3 (Jan 13, 2015)

funflyer said:


> There's no doubt that there is a problem with the two stoves you had. Hopefully they expedite the refund of your money. Looks like your installation is straight forward so it doesn't appear to be a venting or intake air issue. Regardless of the installation there is no reason the stove should eat 2 bags a day on the lowest manual setting. This company has quality problems that the average tinkerer doesn't have the capability to correct and shouldn't have to. Maybe the company has workers that drink Bourbon on the job, I don't know but it's plausible.
> Now, there is absolutely no reason not buy from the BB stores if you're willing to tinker a bit and are able to make some adjustments (which it sounds like you are) to get the best performance from a lower priced stove that has been a proven performer. When I bought my new, but out of production for several years, Englander Home Depot stove, I wanted to see what made it tick so I broke out a few tools. I had to tighten up a few screws, vacuum up some loose weld slag, tie up a few wires and add some extra RTV where I thought necessary. The stove heats my 1800sf home to 70+ degrees even with temps outside temps down to single digits. The highest pellet use I have seen is 1 bag per day and usualy will go 2 days on a bag. The highest heat level I need to use is 5 but most of the time it is on 1 or 2.
> Some people have too much money and feel the need to buy Salvatore Ferragamo Loafers so they don't ever have to bend over but I prefer to learn to tie my shoes. Personally when it comes to stoves, I would rather keep a few grand in my pocket and tinker a bit.



Jesus man. Talk about nailing it right on the head. I did the same with this 5502M as you did. I read up on it here and a couple other places, made the proper corrections and have had a real heat machine because of it. And I have cash in my pocket still. My US Stove product came from TSC and I feel I got good value for my money. A few tie wraps, some RTV, and 1 cotter pin later I was in business.


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## SidecarFlip (Jan 13, 2015)

funflyer said:


> Some people have too much money and feel the need to buy *Salvatore Ferragamo Loafers*


 
WTF are those anyway?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 13, 2015)

SidecarFlip said:


> WTF are those anyway?



http://www.neimanmarcus.com/Salvatore-Ferragamo/Mens/Shoes/cat3990749/c.cat

Enjoy.


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## Johnny_Fiv3 (Jan 13, 2015)

http://www.ferragamo.com/shop/en/eur/men/man-shoes/mocassins---loafers


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## SidecarFlip (Jan 13, 2015)

I don't think so.  You sure as hell can't hunt with them.  I thought my Kennetreks were expensive hunting boots at 400 bucks a pair...sheeeeesh.

I think if you can afford 600 buck loafers, a low buck stove is just that, low buck.


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## CladMaster (Jan 15, 2015)

Kurlus said:


> Thanks to you too then Clad!



Any new info to pass on ?


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## Kurlus (Jan 16, 2015)

CladMaster said:


> Any new info to pass on ?



Owen sent me a part that I received yesterday it's basically a restrictor plate for the intake.  I took a video that I'm sending to him tomorrow and I'll post it here.  I've only been running it for a little over a day so I don't want to comment to much on it yet.  I will say that the flame is a lot better and it's producing way less ash and a little better heat but it still burned about 2.5 bags on low yesterday into today.

A tech is coming out Tuesday to go over it as well.  Oddly enough from the same place I buy my pellets from LOL.

Owen was a huge help.  Hopefully we'll be putting this sucker to bed soon!


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## Kurlus (Jan 17, 2015)

Here's the newest video with the restrictor plate and outside air.  I couldn't post the vid directly on here so I had to post to Youtube first.


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## Owen1508 (Jan 17, 2015)

Nice flame.  2.5 bags is about 850K BTU input  so roughly 700K on the output side.

Edit: Engineering puts the eff. ratings at 95% on combustion and 86% on heat transfer.


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## Kurlus (Jan 17, 2015)

That was yesterday after installing the plate and running with a clean burn pot.  I took one today after cleaning the glass and stirring the burnpot, had about a 1/4-1/2 in of residue in the bottom.  Running like that it's got a bigger flame.  Going to post another video.


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## Kurlus (Jan 17, 2015)




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## IHATEPROPANE (Jan 17, 2015)

Kurlus said:


> That was yesterday after installing the plate and running with a clean burn pot.  I took one today after cleaning the glass and stirring the burnpot, had about a 1/4-1/2 in of residue in the bottom.  Running like that it's got a bigger flame.  Going to post another video.



How well does your burn pot sit in its cradle?  That ash build up sounds like you may have some air bypassing the pot.


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## Owen1508 (Jan 17, 2015)

With the restrictor are you still running the damper low (more closed)? Glass looks a little dirtier as well.

  IHP has something there as well to check air getting around the burnpot


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## CladMaster (Jan 17, 2015)

Looking at the last video, it seems that you are not letting enough air in, the glass should not be black, it should have a grey / white ash buildup.

As for the burn pot, there is no way to seal it, there is no rope gasket around these pots to stop air leaking past the pot.


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## Kurlus (Jan 17, 2015)

IHATEPROPANE said:


> How well does your burn pot sit in its cradle?  That ash build up sounds like you may have some air bypassing the pot.



Burnpot is sitting flush, that's all it can be LOL.

@owen: I'm experimenting with it now.  I've run it full open, half closed, full closed and several variants in between.  It's running a little under half open right now, but in both those vids I believe it was closed.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 17, 2015)

Kurlus said:


> Burnpot is sitting flush, that's all it can be LOL.
> 
> @owen: I'm experimenting with it now.  I've run it full open, half closed, full closed and several variants in between.  It's running a little under half open right now, but in both those vids I believe it was closed.



I don 't want to get in here too much but IHP would probably like to see a picture of your burn pot and he is familiar with several locations that can be prone to causing bypasses.

The first place to start with the consumption issue is to verify the proper parts are on the stove and if they have configuration jumpers that they are indeed set correctly.

An incorrect auger motor speed can cause all kinds of fun things to occur.  

I had a control board that was set for the wrong firing rate (same board used in three different stoves just change the jumper).  Clocking the auger on off times led to finding that little nasty.


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## CladMaster (Jan 17, 2015)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> I don 't want to get in here too much but IHP would probably like to see a picture of your burn pot and he is familiar with several locations that can be prone to causing bypasses.
> 
> The first place to start with the consumption issue is to verify the proper parts are on the stove and if they have configuration jumpers that they are indeed set correctly.
> 
> ...



Smokey, this stove uses the same control board as the newer US 5660 / Ashley 5660 stoves, it's all done via software in the eprom that's on the control board, there are no jumpers to set as I've looked at this myself with my stove.

There are two boards, the second board is the power board that sends 110v to all the stoves motors via the control board shown below. (Power board not shown here)


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## Kurlus (Jan 17, 2015)

CladMaster said:


> Smokey, this stove uses the same control board as the newer US 5660 / Ashley 5660 stoves, it's all done via software in the eprom that's on the control board, there are no jumpers to set as I've looked at this myself with my stove.
> 
> There are two boards, the second board is the power board that sends 110v to all the stoves motors via the control board shown below. (Power board not shown here)



I can confirm that it's EPROM controlled, no jumpers


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 17, 2015)

Kurlus said:


> I can confirm that it's EPROM controlled, no jumpers



You still need to time that flipping auger and check the rotational rpms.

Then you need to verify that the EPROM actually has the correct parameters in its tables.  A 5 second on time is no good if it is supposed to be 2.5 seconds.  

Anyone want to discuss programming with a 40+ years of programming type of critter.  The jumpers usually just tell a burn program in a PROM what table to select.


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## CladMaster (Jan 17, 2015)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> You still need to time that flipping auger and check the rotational rpms.
> 
> Then you need to verify that the EPROM actually has the correct parameters in its tables.  A 5 second on time is no good if it is supposed to be 2.5 seconds.
> 
> Anyone want to discuss programming with a 40+ years of programming type of critter.  The jumpers usually just tell a burn program in a PROM what table to select.



There are no jumpers to set.


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## IHATEPROPANE (Jan 18, 2015)

Kurlus said:


> Burnpot is sitting flush, that's all it can be LOL.
> 
> @owen: I'm experimenting with it now.  I've run it full open, half closed, full closed and several variants in between.  It's running a little under half open right now, but in both those vids I believe it was closed.



Does flush mean there is no space around the pot and it's cradle?  Because if this space exists,  more and more air goes through this space as pellets start dropping, as the air will seek the path of least resistance.  The pot build up will be slow and unnoticeable at first but will pick up speed quickly.  I have fought this battle with a different, but amazingly similar stove. 
I am familiar with how your burn pot sits,  and the ones I have seen in stores all have a gap around them.  I would think of a way to close that gap if yours has one, which I suspect it does.


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## CladMaster (Jan 18, 2015)

If you watch the first video in this thread, you can see how this pot sits in it's cradle, you will also see the very small gap around the burn pot and the cradle, this is where air will leak by.


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## IHATEPROPANE (Jan 18, 2015)

CladMaster said:


> If you watch the first video in this thread, you can see how this pot sits in it's cradle, you will also see the very small gap around the burn pot and the cradle, this is where air will leak by.



Exactly,  and as long as that exists, burn quality will suffer and build up will exist.


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## Kurlus (Jan 18, 2015)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> You still need to time that flipping auger and check the rotational rpms.
> 
> Then you need to verify that the EPROM actually has the correct parameters in its tables.  A 5 second on time is no good if it is supposed to be 2.5 seconds.
> 
> Anyone want to discuss programming with a 40+ years of programming type of critter.  The jumpers usually just tell a burn program in a PROM what table to select.



I don't think anyone is disagreeing with you or your 40+ years of programming knowledge, there just isn't any jumpers.  I can't set something that isn't there.

@ Clad and IHATEPROPANE, when I shut it down today I'll clean the pot and take a pic, with the damper half open the glass got dirtier.  Thanks!


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 18, 2015)

Kurlus said:


> I don't think anyone is disagreeing with you or your 40+ years of programming knowledge, there just isn't any jumpers. I can't set something that isn't there.



Remember the PC Cladmaster.

Yes that is wonderful that there are no jumpers (one less place for the plant on Friday at quitting time -10 minutes to get messed up while thinking of what brew to order), that still leaves the damn parameters in the eprom that matter, it is possible that the controller is the wrong one or has the wrong eprom, etc... 

There is still the question of the auger motor rate, if it is a different rpm than what it is supposed to be the feed will be different from what you expect. 

Since the stove actually feeds by volume it is also possible that the loading space on the auger is involved.  

That is why the timing information is needed.


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## Kurlus (Jan 18, 2015)

I'll check it today and post that when I post the burnpot photo.  Thanks!


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## CladMaster (Jan 18, 2015)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> Remember the PC Cladmaster.



Eh ?   Remember the PC ?   

Not with you Smokey ....


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## Kurlus (Jan 18, 2015)

Ok running on Manual 2, seems to be where I get the best flame, there's a 78 second rotation.  There's a small gap around the burnpot that's a little less than 1 scrapper blade width in the front and a little over 1 width on the side.  I've got the damper just a little over half open, seems to be on the edge of running a little dirty and blowtorching.  It'll have a nice flame for about 5mins, blowtorch for a min or two, then run nice again.  Has just a little black soot on the glass but the may have been from before I found the sweet spot.


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## IHATEPROPANE (Jan 18, 2015)

Kurlus said:


> Ok running on Manual 2, seems to be where I get the best flame, there's a 78 second rotation.  There's a small gap around the burnpot that's a little less than 1 scrapper blade width in the front and a little over 1 width on the side.  I've got the damper just a little over half open, seems to be on the edge of running a little dirty and blowtorching.  It'll have a nice flame for about 5mins, blowtorch for a min or two, then run nice again.  Has just a little black soot on the glass but the may have been from before I found the sweet spot.



That gap is going to be an issue.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 18, 2015)

Well that is part of it.

How long does it take to make one revolution with the auger motor motor out of circuit and hard wired.  In other words what is the true auger motor rpm.

Auger systems are timed feed systems, we are tring to find out if the auger on/off times match a table that the stove maker should have and then to verify that the auger motor is turning at the correct speed.

A system that has a on time twice as long as it should be for a particular heat level but has the correct cycle time will feed twice the pellets that it should.  If the controller is producing the correct on/off time and has an auger motor attached to it that is twice the speed it should be it will also feed twice the pellets that it should.

Common auger speeds are 1, 2, 4, and 6 RPM. Your stove IIRC is supposed to use a 1.5 RPM .  So if the guys at the plant had access to a 2 RPM motor and the correct timing it would feed 1 and a third times what it should.


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## Kurlus (Jan 18, 2015)

I'd have to know what the auger voltage was and hook up an external supply to push it.  Neither of which do I have, though I could probably borrow a supply from work.

@IHATEPROPANE: What would you recommend for sealing the gap?


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## CladMaster (Jan 18, 2015)

Flat rope gasket is one option, but how and where to fix it is the problem.

As for the auger motor, there should be a label on it, take a pic and post it here.


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## IHATEPROPANE (Jan 19, 2015)

Kurlus said:


> I'd have to know what the auger voltage was and hook up an external supply to push it.  Neither of which do I have, though I could probably borrow a supply from work.
> 
> @IHATEPROPANE: What would you recommend for sealing the gap?



If it were my stove I would get some flat rope gasket and wedge it between the pot and cradle with a small screwdriver.  The gasket may have to be cut to be small enough to wedge in there, but there is where I would start.  This fix was done to my stove by the dealers tech for a similar type of gap.  Which I was able to modify over time for a more permanent kind of fix.


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## Owen1508 (Jan 19, 2015)

motor is 1.5 RPM CCW
Starting torque is 125 in/lbs @ 115V 60 H

no other motor in that factory


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 19, 2015)

Owen1508 said:


> motor is 1.5 RPM CCW
> Starting torque is 125 in/lbs @ 115V 60 H
> 
> no other motor in that factory



Trust that information only when personally verified Owen. 

It is like trusting the good ole my stove is so clean you could eat off of it response we get all the time on here that turns out after many posts to the thread not to be what the situation actually is/was.


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## Kurlus (Jan 19, 2015)

Oh no if there's one person on here I whole heartedly trust with the stoves specs it's Owen LOL

@IHATEPROPANE: I'll give that gasket a shot today


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 19, 2015)

Kurlus said:


> Oh no if there's one person on here I whole heartedly trust it's Owen LOL



You aren't really getting the messages, it is fire you are playing with, *never trust information that you have not verified*.  

The plant may indeed think it only has 1.5 RPM motors but that doesn’t prevent a screw up from happening and the plant having other than 1.5 RPM motors.  Even when marked by the motor maker that doesn't mean the motor is a 1.5 RPM motor.

You are trying to determine why your stove is consuming more pellets than you think it should, we are laying out some of the things that need to be verified plus some other things that relate to burn issues seen on several stoves.


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## IHATEPROPANE (Jan 19, 2015)

Kurlus said:


> Oh no if there's one person on here I whole heartedly trust with the stoves specs it's Owen LOL
> 
> @IHATEPROPANE: I'll give that gasket a shot today



Just make sure the pot remains seated as it is intended.  It is easy to go gasket crazy and have the burn pot become misaligned.


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## Johnny_Fiv3 (Jan 19, 2015)

My pot sits just like that one. I do not have any issues. Just throwing that out there.


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## IHATEPROPANE (Jan 19, 2015)

Johnny_Fiv3 said:


> My pot sits just like that one. I do not have any issues. Just throwing that out there.



Can you upload some pictures for comparison.


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## Owen1508 (Jan 19, 2015)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> You aren't really getting the messages, it is fire you are playing with, *never trust information that you have not verified*.
> 
> The plant may indeed think it only has 1.5 RPM motors but that doesn’t prevent a screw up from happening and the plant having other than 1.5 RPM motors.  Even when marked by the motor maker that doesn't mean the motor is a 1.5 RPM motor.
> 
> You are trying to determine why your stove is consuming more pellets than you think it should, we are laying out some of the things that need to be verified plus some other things that relate to burn issues seen on several stoves.



True vendor error can never be overlooked.

Those are what the motor spec are suppose to be.  I posted so you can check them against what you have


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## Owen1508 (Jan 19, 2015)

Here are the auger timings on the 5790

HR       ON        Off
     1              1.8 sec            6 sec.
     2               3.0 sec          4.5 sec
     3               3.5  sec         3.0 sec
     4               5.0 sec          3.0 sec
     5               6.0 sec          3.0 sec

Edit:  I did type it all nice with spaces   sorry it smushed


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## Owen1508 (Jan 19, 2015)

*Control Board Test VG5770 and the VG 5790*

*Version 1.3*

Press and hold the mode button and temp arrow up simultaneously for approximately 3 seconds.


A number (1.3) will appears in the display. This will tell you the version control board you have. Press any button to move to the next step. Follow the below procedure:


1.  SEGMENT LIGHT DISPLAY. PRESS ANY BUTTONJ TO MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP.

2.  8. FLASHES FROM LEFT TO RIGHT ON THE DISPLAY TESTING DISPLAY LIGHTS. PRESS ANY BUTTON TO MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP.

3.  THE BAR GRAPH LIGHTS WILL FLASH FROM THE BOTTOM TO THE TOP. THEN IT WILL SWITCH TO THE RED LED ABOVE POWER OVER TO GREEN ABOVE POWER. THE DEGREE PUTTONS WILL LIGHT UP WITH FARENHEIGHT FIRST THWEN CALSIUS. TSTAT THEN MANUAL WILL LIGHT UP THE LIGHTS WILL BLINK IN THIS ORDER UNTIL YOU MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP. PRESS ANY BUTTON TO CONTINUE.

4.  TEST THE LIGHTS OF CONTROL PAD. ALL LED’s WILL LIGHT UP. THE DISPLAY WILL SHOW 8.8. PRESS ANY BUTTON TO MOVE TO THE NEXT.

5.  S1 WILL APPEAR IN THE DISPLAY TO CHECK POWER BUTTON. PRESS POWER BUTTON TO MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP.

6.  S2 WILL APPEAR IN THE DISPLAY TO CHECK MODE BUTTON. PRESS MODE BUTTON TO MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP.

7.  S3 WILL APPEAR IN THE DISPLAY TO CHECK THE TEMPERATURE ARROW UP. PRESS THE TEMPERATURE ARROW UP TO MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP.

8.  S4 WILL APPEAR IN THE DISPLAY TO CHECK THE TEMPERATURE ARROW DOWN. PRESS THE TEMPERATURE ARROW DOWN TO MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP.

9.  S5 WILL APPEAR IN THE DISPLAY TO CELSIUS/FARENHEIGHT BUTTON. PRESS THIS BUTTON TO MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP.

10.  DR APPEARS IN THE DISPLAY. YOU WILL HEAR THE EXHAUST BLOWER RAMPING WITH THE DOOR SHUT, ON SOLID WITH THE DOOR OPEN. NO LIGHTS. PRESS ANYU BUTTON TO MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP.

11.  RF WILL APPEAR IN THE DISPLAY ONLY IF THE LOW LIMIT IS BYPASSED OR NOT IN THE PROPER OPEN POSISTION. IF THE DISPLAY IS BLANK, THE LOW LIMIT IS OPEN (GOOD) ANF THE BLOWER WILL NOT COME ON. TO TEST THE ROOM BLOWER IF THE LIMIT SWITCH IS GOOD, YOU WILL HAVE TO BYPASS THE LOW LIMIT AND RERUN THE TEST. PRESS ANY BUTTON TO MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP.

12.  IG APPEARS IN THE DISPLAY. NO LIGHTS. THE IGNITER SHOULD GET HOT. PRESS ANY BUTTON TO CONTINUE. (WILL NOT LIGHT IF THE HIGHER TEMPERATURE HAS TRIPPED).

13.  AU APPEARS IN THE DISPLAY. NO LIGHTS. THE AUGER WILL FEED PELLETS. PRESS ANY BUTTON TO CONTINUE. (IF AUGER DOES NOT TURN, CHECK HOPPER SWITCH).

14.  THE DISPLAY WILL SHOW THE TEMPERATURE READ OUT OF THE THERMOSTAT WIRE. THIS SHOULD BE CLOSE TO THE AMBIENT ROOM TEMPERATURE. PRESS ANY BUTTON.

YOU HAVE NOW FINISHED THE TEST. THE DISPLAY WILL BE CLEAR WITH A RED LED LIT ABOVE THE POWER BUTTON.


This also may help some of you


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## Johnny_Fiv3 (Jan 19, 2015)

IHATEPROPANE said:


> Can you upload some pictures for comparison.



I can once it's shut down again. Just did the LBT deep clean yesterday and am running now. It's my primary heat. I'll try and remember next time I shut down though.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 19, 2015)

Owen1508 said:


> True vendor error can never be overlooked.
> 
> Those are what the motor spec are suppose to be.  I posted so you can check them against what you have



Yes and that is why I try to get things verified.  It is that 40+ years of chasing this and that again, sometimes it boiled down to a single character missing in several thousand lines of code.  Verify, always.

Thanks for the additional information Owen.


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## Kurlus (Jan 20, 2015)

Alright, had the local tech stop in today and verify that everything was running good.  I didn't time all the settings but on low, it's 2 on, 4 off.  Stove is burning about 1.5 bags every 24hrs and it's producing heat!  Glorious heat! LOL

Hey I'll take it.  Uploading some pics on manual 2 with it tweeked.  I took Ihatepropane's suggestion and added gasket around the burnpot, which of course put more air thru it, so I had to damper it lower but it's running good.

The door thermo runs between 250-300 degrees and I use pretty much a flat 2 bags a day on manual 2.

Thank god it's no longer burning 3, on low!

Glass is a little dirty in a couple pics, but once tweeked it cleared up.

All pics were of it running on Manual 2


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## IHATEPROPANE (Jan 20, 2015)

Kurlus said:


> Alright, had the local tech stop in today and verify that everything was running good.  I didn't time all the settings but on low, it's 2 on, 4 off.  Stove is burning about 1.5 bags every 24hrs and it's producing heat!  Glorious heat! LOL
> 
> Hey I'll take it.  Uploading some pics on manual 2 with it tweeked.  I took Ihatepropane's suggestion and added gasket around the burnpot, which of course put more air thru it, so I had to damper it lower but it's running good.
> 
> ...



Nice!! Sounds like you got things working well.


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## Owen1508 (Jan 20, 2015)

Awesome  glad to hear that.


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## CladMaster (Jan 20, 2015)

Sweet, I knew Owen and others here would guide you in the right direction.

Make sure you keep that beast clean.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 20, 2015)

Owen, I think someone needs to look at what they gave you for timings that 1.8/6.0 you have for low is according to the owner who has one 2/4.0 which is a 30% higher feed rate than your documents indicate.

IHP, eventually the rest of the folks will figure it out.

Cladmaster, what is this clean you are yammering about?

Thus concludes this lesson, or does it?

*Hallelujah*.


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## funflyer (Jan 20, 2015)

Sounds like maybe a 1 RPM auger motor might give better controlability, especially since the board programming seems to be all over the place.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 20, 2015)

funflyer said:


> Sounds like maybe a 1 RPM auger motor might give better controlability, especially since the board programming seems to be all over the place.



Could be but the board programming may have other things besides general timing,  "features" that we haven't uncovered or has been disclosed to us.

We still haven't bothered to figure out the actual RPM rate of the motor.   Nor do we know the loading volume available to load with pellets and so forth and so on.


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## Owen1508 (Jan 21, 2015)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> Owen, I think someone needs to look at what they gave you for timings that 1.8/6.0 you have for low is according to the owner who has one 2/4.0 which is a 30% higher feed rate than your documents indicate.
> 
> IHP, eventually the rest of the folks will figure it out.
> 
> ...



LOL  That was our department when we test burn them.  We don't rely on any spec given to us, we (tech) usually document our own findings.


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## Owen1508 (Jan 7, 2016)

RTV will work at a much cheaper price


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## sweets (Jan 7, 2016)

Owen1508 said:


> RTV will work at a much cheaper price


it was a blockage in rear of stove


sweets said:


> it was a blockage in rear of stove





sweets said:


> it was a blockage in rear of stove


The new gaskets r nice but pricey


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## thatguy69 (Jan 11, 2016)

i bought this same stove from tsc last year. first my combustion blower bearings went out,then the output shaft on the gearbox for the auger started leaking oil,and shortly after that the convection blower bearings started squawling like a dieng rabbit. stove never seemed to burn right so i called and haggled uss to send me a new stove and maybe i got a lemon. well so far this season i may have burned my stove 2 months now altogether and the convection blower bearings are squawling already. and the seam on the rope gasket is falling apart like crazy. this stove has never seemed to burn right and the glass is almost always black 5 or 6 hours after i clean it along with the burn pot filling up with hardened ash. Im not so sure the stove cant draw air through the hopper since there is no seal on the hopper lid? and also i need to solve the issue with the gap all the way around the burn pot. ive burned lignetics,easy heats,and american wood fibers and always got good heat. the stove is just a pain in the rear to keep going. so i just picked up a englander 25 and am hopping for better results and ill use the vogelzang in the garage for heat since its so unreliable and uss wont refund my money.


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## sweets (Jan 11, 2016)

thatguy69 said:


> i bought this same stove from tsc last year. first my combustion blower bearings went out,then the output shaft on the gearbox for the auger started leaking oil,and shortly after that the convection blower bearings started squawling like a dieng rabbit. stove never seemed to burn right so i called and haggled uss to send me a new stove and maybe i got a lemon. well so far this season i may have burned my stove 2 months now altogether and the convection blower bearings are squawling already. and the seam on the rope gasket is falling apart like crazy. this stove has never seemed to burn right and the glass is almost always black 5 or 6 hours after i clean it along with the burn pot filling up with hardened ash. Im not so sure the stove cant draw air through the hopper since there is no seal on the hopper lid? and also i need to solve the issue with the gap all the way around the burn pot. ive burned lignetics,easy heats,and american wood fibers and always got good heat. the stove is just a pain in the rear to keep going. so i just picked up a englander 25 and am hopping for better results and ill use the vogelzang in the garage for heat since its so unreliable and uss wont refund my money.


 Wow, you did get a lemon you can get the exhaust blower on eBay from somebody else for 100 bucks and the rope u can get locally, it's 7/8 but I agree the company is useless , they should of gave you a new 1 .......The sooting  up the 5 to 6 hours is the cleanout on the side you want to take a wet vac and blow it in the part that goes into the blower unit, it clogs up all the time it takes a 90° angles of another passageway ,you can't see it, if you blow that out that Stove will  run 100%


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## thatguy69 (Jan 11, 2016)

Sorry I didn't make it clear,they did send me a new stove at the begging of this 2016 season. And it's the same results. I'm aware of the cleanout your talking about and I keep them maintained. But the stove has burnt that dirty since day one,so did the old one I had from them 


sweets said:


> Wow, you did get a lemon you can get the exhaust blower on eBay from somebody else for 100 bucks and the rope u can get locally, it's 7/8 but I agree the company is useless , they should of gave you a new 1 .......The sooting  up the 5 to 6 hours is the cleanout on the side you want to take a wet vac and blow it in the part that goes into the blower unit, it clogs up all the time it takes a 90° angles of another passageway ,you can't see it, if you blow that out that Stove will  run 100%


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## sweets (Jan 11, 2016)

thatguy69 said:


> Sorry I didn't make it clear,they did send me a new stove at the begging of this 2016 season. And it's the same results. I'm aware of the cleanout your talking about and I keep them maintained. But the stove has burnt that dirty since day one,so did the old one I had from them


Wow , i bought 2 and there awesome , i dont know what to tell you  , i gotta be clear , its after those clean outs the stove get clogged if u dont clean.


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## sweets (Jan 11, 2016)

sweets said:


> Wow , i bought 2 and there awesome , i dont know what to tell you  , i gotta be clear , its after those clean outs the stove get clogged if u dont clean.





sweets said:


> Wow , i bought 2 and there awesome , i dont know what to tell you  , i gotta be clear , its after those clean outs the stove get clogged if u dont clean.


if you were in Connecticut I come over your house and fix the stove for you I have a patent pending on a new stove part for that stove ,that will make it run for seven days , no cleaning , I told my mother-in-law if she buys the stove I'll make the piece for free for her and see how she likes it , it's 12 minute cleaning she says it's phenomenal ... I'm sorry you're having such bad luck ...


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## thatguy69 (Jan 12, 2016)

sweets said:


> if you were in Connecticut I come over your house and fix the stove for you I have a patent pending on a new stove part for that stove ,that will make it run for seven days , no cleaning , I told my mother-in-law if she buys the stove I'll make the piece for free for her and see how she likes it , it's 12 minute cleaning she says it's phenomenal ... I'm sorry you're having such bad luck ...


Do you care to elaborate on this?and what access are you talking about? Between the side access panels and combustion blower I thigh the only way to clean was by removing the combustion blower?


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## Joe Cowboy (Jan 27, 2016)

Does anyone know what the efficiency of the Vogelzang VG 5790 is and if the IRS is still giving tax credits for installation of high efficiency wood stoves? Thanks


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## sweets (Apr 7, 2016)

Joe Cowboy said:


> Does anyone know what the efficiency of the Vogelzang VG 5790 is and if the IRS is still giving tax credits for installation of high efficiency wood stoves? Thanks


the efficency is great , no tax credit


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## rich2500 (Apr 8, 2016)

why no tax credit


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