# Best Way to Tarp Your Wood?



## jscs.moore (Dec 27, 2018)

Hey Guys...I've been burning wood for about 3 years now in my Hampton HI300 insert. Having gone through the whole wet wood stuff in my first season I can now confidently say I have caught the dry wood religion However, I have struggled with the whole tarp thing. I store about 4 cords in my yard and have used the crappy hardware store plastic tarps, but always find that they tear and wear out pretty quickly. 

So I'm looking for advice on the best way to effectively tarp my wood. I can't afford, nor have time, to build a wood shed. I have looked on-line for some of the upgraded tarps from places like woodland direct and other sites, but they are ridiculously expensive to cover a basic 8x4 woodrack...about $150 bucks! Anyway, we had so much rain this past summer and fall...I want to really protect my wood this year and looking for the most effective way to tarp. Been thinking about doubling up on the cheapy tarps and using bungee cords to cinch them down tight?


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## bholler (Dec 27, 2018)

jscs.moore said:


> Hey Guys...I've been burning wood for about 3 years now in my Hampton HI300 insert. Having gone through the whole wet wood stuff in my first season I can now confidently say I have caught the dry wood religion However, I have struggled with the whole tarp thing. I store about 4 cords in my yard and have used the crappy hardware store plastic tarps, but always find that they tear and wear out pretty quickly.
> 
> So I'm looking for advice on the best way to effectively tarp my wood. I can't afford, nor have time, to build a wood shed. I have looked on-line for some of the upgraded tarps from places like woodland direct and other sites, but they are ridiculously expensive to cover a basic 8x4 woodrack...about $150 bucks! Anyway, we had so much rain this past summer and fall...I want to really protect my wood this year and looking for the most effective way to tarp. Been thinking about doubling up on the cheapy tarps and using bungee cords to cinch them down tight?


Find some used metal roofing or rubber roofing


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## jscs.moore (Dec 27, 2018)

bholler said:


> Find some used metal roofing or rubber roofing


Hmmm...wifey won't go for metal roofing (looks to hillbilly), but might go for rubber if it doesn't like like crap. Thanks bholller!


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## bholler (Dec 27, 2018)

jscs.moore said:


> Hmmm...wifey won't go for metal roofing (looks to hillbilly), but might go for rubber if it doesn't like like crap. Thanks bholller!


I think metal looks better than crappy tarps. But that's just me


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## jscs.moore (Dec 27, 2018)

bholler said:


> I think metal looks better than crappy tarps. But that's just me


Good point..it's all in the eye of the beholder


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## JRHAWK9 (Dec 27, 2018)

I use all old rubber roofing take-offs.


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## weatherguy (Dec 27, 2018)

Rubber roofing is hard to get in some areas, I've been looking for over 5 years and I only scored one 4 x 8 piece, still looking.


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## TedyOH (Dec 27, 2018)

I leave the wood im burning that winter uncovered spring and summer, (doesnt matter or dont care how much it rains) cover late August/Early September with these 4 x 20 tarps and drill sheet rock screws with washers through the eyelets right into the splits...I single stacked rows with room to walk between obviously....

https://www.thetarpswholesaler.com/...jCQc8ofRAYaNaw5y3rP8_z47J3UjKU3saAjrPEALw_wcB

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## wooduser (Dec 28, 2018)

jscs.moore said:


> Good point..it's all in the eye of the beholder




So it's not in the eye of bholler then?

He always strikes me as a straight up guy.


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## Adabiviak (Dec 28, 2018)

I sucked it up and shelled out for one of those oiled canvas ones... those cheap ones are easily punctured if they rest on a pointy bit of wood with the weight of rain/snow on them for a season, and open sun absolutely roasts them. Those oiled canvas tarps are way harder (though not impossible) to rip, but they can stand up to the weather for, well, years so far (temperature ranges from 20s to 110s here any given year). Rips in these canvas ones tend to be user error, so I don't really fault the tarp for it. In practice though, I'll use random things too (recycling an old yoga mat and a bad air mattress in these roles as I type this).

Opinions vary about how to apply tarps. For me: if it's split, it's covered. While I have a ton of wood in the bank for future years (decks of wood in various stages of seasoning), I'm only one to two years ahead with actual splits. These get top covered during the rainy season only (I take it back off in the dry season to let the sun and wind hit them fully). If these were stacked in a flat open field where rain with a horizontal component was a thing, I would also tarp that side.

I recycle old bicycle inner tubes that are beyond repair for tie downs; the hooks are from bungee cords I've scrounged on the sides of the road (I don't know about anyone else, but once you start looking, they're _everywhere_). Cut the tube to the length desired, knot into the hook ends, and lock that tarp down.

I do layer the splits at the top upon which the tarp will rest with the smoothest surfaces facing up (to avoid punctures and stress points), and with a slight rise in the center (to avoid depressions where water can pool and strain the tarp).


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## Woody5506 (Dec 28, 2018)

My harbor freight green tarps are going on 3 seasons now with practically no holes. Some are getting worn but they still are holding up. I think I get the 8x12'or 10x15' and just lay them out, fold them over a few times and run them over the stacks. I think both are less than $20 each. I weigh them down with little wood rounds or ugly splits. Some areas I have tied down either with bungees or rope.


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## SpaceBus (Dec 28, 2018)

I used hardware store tarps, and they are dying. This is also my first season, so I've been in overdrive cutting, splitting, and stacking. I've made a few improvised wood racks out of old lumber and pallets. To make it easier I screwed in some steel eyelets and tied the tarp grommets to the eyelets with nylon cord. I find that if the tarps don't flap, they don't get torn up. I also busted a few grommets over tightening the cords. 

Since I'm behind, I even uncover the stacks when the weather is nice, even though it's winter. I also need every bit of firewood.


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## velvetfoot (Dec 28, 2018)

I store my wood to be used in single, maybe double file along an inside garage wall.

My stacks, I put the black plastic from Home Depot on it, but it does puncture easily.

I once got some plywood and put some plastic over that when I was going to store the winter wood on the driveway, and held it down with strings tied to screws in the wood.

It's all a PITA compared with the garage.


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## Woody5506 (Dec 28, 2018)

I'm honestly surprised at how well the Harbor Freight tarps hold up given other people's stories of other tarps going to crap after a season. 

HF also often has coupons for free 5'x7' tarps with any purchase. They are small and of cheaper quality, but I have so many of them from those coupons that once they go bad, I don't feel bad throwing them out. 


I would love rubber roofing material as a permanent solution. It's extremely expensive though. There's an ad on Craigslist for rolls of it that are almost a thousand bucks. I would need nearly 3 grand worth of it to cover all of my stacks currently. No thanks....


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Dec 28, 2018)

jscs.moore said:


> Good point..it's all in the eye of the beholder


I suspect to the op's wife, tarps are _temporary_, once something of higher quality goes down, starts to feel _permanent_.

Make no mistake, blue tarps all over the yard and water closet flower planters are proud flags.  I've got the blue tarps, and the old wc ready to go.  The Woman is vetoing the wc planter, but I'm probably going to do it next spring.  The neighbors will love it!


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## PaulOinMA (Dec 28, 2018)

My wood is on three Woodhaven Half Cord Plus (10') racks: http://www.obxconnection.com/outer-banks-forum/forum-thread.aspx?Thread=103151.  The covers are still fine after almost 15 years.

Covers are also sold separately: https://firewoodracks.com/products....cement-Covers/c/13523403/offset=0&sort=normal.

Haven't done a search to see if they can be had cheaper.


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## sen166 (Dec 28, 2018)

If you'd like an honest opinion that may deviate from the norm on this site... I say forgo the tarps all together!  To me, it is much more of a hassle and cost prohibitive than what it is worth to tarp my stacked wood.  The way I figure, if it's rained or snowed a little bit before I bring it in to my garage to stack it on racks (easier access for the wife to bring it in to the stove than walking outside), I just leave the air on the stove open a little bit longer. 

If you really split and stack wood outside for two or three years, a little rain water or snow on top of it here or there is not going to affect its moisture content to the point where you can't burn it.  I have a stove full of two year old cut, split, an stacked ash in the stove right now that was never covered. Stove top temps are around 500 degrees (soapstone stove), similar stack temperatures, and great secondary combustion/burn.

Although, I'm a minimalist, so take it for what it's worth.


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Dec 28, 2018)

sen166 said:


> If you'd like an honest opinion that may deviate from the norm on this site... I say forgo the tarps all together!  To me, it is much more of a hassle and cost prohibitive than what it is worth to tarp my stacked wood.  The way I figure, if it's rained or snowed a little bit before I bring it in to my garage to stack it on racks (easier access for the wife to bring it in to the stove than walking outside), I just leave the air on the stove open a little bit longer.
> 
> If you really split and stack wood outside for two or three years, a little rain water or snow on top of it here or there is not going to affect its moisture content to the point where you can't burn it.  I have a stove full of two year old cut, split, an stacked ash in the stove right now that was never covered. Stove top temps are around 500 degrees (soapstone stove), similar stack temperatures, and great secondary combustion/burn.
> 
> Although, I'm a minimalist, so take it for what it's worth.


 My fully seasoned wood would be soaking wet all winter, fire weak, cool and smoky, chimney full of creasote. 

I listened to foolish posts like this to my detriment, one season.

Cover your stacks, or regret it come winter.


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## sen166 (Dec 28, 2018)

I listened to foolish posts like this to my detriment, one season.

Cover your stacks, or regret it come winter.[/QUOTE]

To each his own.  I only offer my own personal experience with a warm home heated with uncovered wood that has been CSS for two plus years and burned in an EPA approved stove.  If I am considered foolish, I would hate to see what you think of the old timers from late that started heating their homes with wood to abstain from high oil prices.


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## darktower007 (Dec 28, 2018)

bholler said:


> I think metal looks better than crappy tarps. But that's just me



Im all about Hillbilly. Oh wait.. I live in Tennessee lol


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Dec 29, 2018)

Sen166- I had a night to sleep on it, and apologize for the foolish comment. 

Brilliant people say and do silly things all the time.  As I don't know you at all, there's no way I could have been commenting on you, just your one post.  So, please, nothing personal intended.

All that said, I took a chance against my better judgement, and left my well seasoned wood uncovered based on posts like yours. And I paid the price.

Now, I have a strong, experience based opinion, that it is a terrible idea to leave your stacks uncovered in the Mid-Atlantic or other similar areas, if you want a quality, clean burning experience.

If you had a dry year in Michigan, and you have dry wood to burn, having left it uncovered, fine.

My guess is, with a couple of tarps or other roof, you could be a better neighbor (less smoke), have a hotter, cleaner fire, cleaner chimney. 

My point was to warn other people not to listen to your bad advice about stuffing damp wood into their wood burner.  Nothing personal intended whatsoever.


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## Ashful (Dec 29, 2018)

I have always left all wood uncovered until the late summer of the year I’m burning.  I’m usually 3-4 years ahead, and figure out dry summers do them well uncovered.

It has always worked great for me, until this year, when we got Seattle’s weather.


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Dec 29, 2018)

Ashful said:


> I have always left all wood uncovered until the late summer of the year I’m burning.  I’m usually 3-4 years ahead, and figure out dry summers do them well uncovered.
> 
> It has always worked great for me, until this year, when we got Seattle’s weather.


I have wood at my parents house that I css for them, they have a shed on one stack, tarp on another.  Year round.  Just down the road, identical climate.

They had several massive trees - 40" trunks, taken down three years ago.  I left 3/4 there, took 1/4.  

Last year their wood from this cadre was bone dry.  Mine, covered only from September 1, was of middling quality, moisture-wise.  This year, no contest- their's,  still bone dry, mine, sopping.

That's enough of a controlled experiment for me.  

Covered at least 3 months ahead, better yet, top covered as soon as the initial green wet is out.  Plus, it keeps the debris out.


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## bholler (Dec 29, 2018)

darktower007 said:


> Im all about Hillbilly. Oh wait.. I live in Tennessee lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Mine isn't hillbilly.  I have single row racks built out of pallets with metal roofing attached


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## jscs.moore (Dec 29, 2018)

ED 3000 said:


> Sen166- I had a night to sleep on it, and apologize for the foolish comment.
> 
> Brilliant people say and do silly things all the time.  As I don't know you at all, there's no way I could have been commenting on you, just your one post.  So, please, nothing personal intended.
> 
> ...


OP here...yes, I agree that we all have to be careful with the don't worry about tarping advice. I actually left about 2 cords of my wood uncovered this past year and paid the price. With all the rain we had in my area of Eastern PA, I ended up with a lot of moisture and mold on my uncovered wood. This has never happened to me before and was really annoying. This is the main reason I am going to make sure when I get a new load of cord wood delivered in the next month or so...I cover all of it with good heavy duty tarps and cinch them down with rope or bungee cords. Never want to deal with mold on my precious firewood again


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## Ashful (Dec 29, 2018)

ED 3000 said:


> That's enough of a controlled experiment for me.


I already have quotes on a 45-cord “shed”, of almost 1000 sq.ft., and it would already be built now, if my back yard hadn’t become wetlands this year.  Waiting on dry weather for permitting application, since it is legitimately wetlands-adjacent, and will likely require some re-surveying of wetlands setbacks.  It’s killing me that my good trailer is sitting out in the weather, it has taken a real beating in the last few years.


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Dec 29, 2018)

Ashful said:


> I already have quotes on a 45-cord “shed”, of almost 1000 sq.ft., and it would already be built now, if my back yard hadn’t become wetlands this year.  Waiting on dry weather for permitting application, since it is legitimately wetlands-adjacent, and will likely require some re-surveying of wetlands setbacks.  It’s killing me that my good trailer is sitting out in the weather, it has taken a real beating in the last few years.


Can't wait to see it, glad you decided to take the plunge.

 Your dry wood system is gonna be fantastic, the final nail in this silly covered/uncovered debate that's been raging for years.  And a dry trailer.

Seriously, the envy of us all.  This weather is incredibly frustrating.


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## weatherguy (Dec 29, 2018)

I left two cords uncovered for the three years it seasoned  all oak, never again. I stack and keep uncovered a couple months then its covered til burned.


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## tcassavaugh (Dec 29, 2018)

what about 2 x 4 framework you can pile the wood under then tarp the frame....keeps it off the wood...just a thought


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## paulnlee (Dec 29, 2018)

The only time I tarp my wood is before it's split. Once it's split it goes into the stable. Keep your powder and your wood dry.


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## Woodsplitter67 (Dec 29, 2018)

The best way to tarp your wood... is to build a shed around it


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## george255 (Dec 29, 2018)

Build a small lean 2 and metal roof it, leave three sides open and wall the back of it. Now, let's have a Whiskey!


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## They Call Me Pete (Dec 30, 2018)

I tarped this year but will be building a couple woodsheds outta pallets with a metal roof. Messing around with tarps with snow on them sucks


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## weatherguy (Dec 30, 2018)

george255 said:


> Build a small lean 2 and metal roof it, leave three sides open and wall the back of it. Now, let's have a Whiskey!


That's my plan, have the materials, dont have the time.


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## rowerwet (Dec 30, 2018)

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/simple-pallet-firewood-rack.167322/
This is how I season my wood.

If the wife is dead set against the best roofing choice, you should look into billboard tarps,  they're meant to stand up to the wind and UV like nothing else will.

Personally I cover my stacks to keep leaves and black walnuts from collecting and then rotting out the wood and racks. 
I've also had stacks get pushed over by heavy snow and ice, a roof prevents all that


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## Ashful (Dec 30, 2018)

rowerwet said:


> ..,you should look into billboard tarps,  they're meant to stand up to the wind and UV like nothing else will.



I can attest to this.  We store loaner boats under these billboard canvases at the sail club, and they’re incredibly tough.  They last several years, in full sun, without breaking down.  Wasps love to nest under them, too!


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## maple1 (Dec 31, 2018)

jscs.moore said:


> Hey Guys...I've been burning wood for about 3 years now in my Hampton HI300 insert. Having gone through the whole wet wood stuff in my first season I can now confidently say I have caught the dry wood religion However, I have struggled with the whole tarp thing. I store about 4 cords in my yard and have used the crappy hardware store plastic tarps, but always find that they tear and wear out pretty quickly.
> 
> So I'm looking for advice on the best way to effectively tarp my wood. I can't afford, nor have time, to build a wood shed. I have looked on-line for some of the upgraded tarps from places like woodland direct and other sites, but they are ridiculously expensive to cover a basic 8x4 woodrack...about $150 bucks! Anyway, we had so much rain this past summer and fall...I want to really protect my wood this year and looking for the most effective way to tarp. Been thinking about doubling up on the cheapy tarps and using bungee cords to cinch them down tight?



People seem to make tarping way harder than it has to be. It amazes me sometimes. There couldn't be anything cheaper or easier.

I stack in double stacks, on pallets. You need tarps only as wide as the stacks. So maybe 3-3.5' wide for me. I can get those up here, they are made for that, they are something like 20' long. I have also cut wider ones in half when needed, or folded them double. Whatever it takes to get a tarp that wide.

Then you just roll/spread it out on top of the stack, and put another layer of wood on top. That's it - easy peasy. No tying or cording or nailing or fastening or anything else. The top layer of wood keeps it there (and will quickly dry out when it gets rained on), and added bonus is it also blocks the sun. Which is what most tarp deterioration is from - direct sunlight. Most of mine are between 5 & 10 years old and still going. And it also hides most of the tarp, if complaints are coming in about tarps being ugly. Get brown ones (that's what color the narrow ones are I get) and they are practically invisible.

To go along with that - first get your pallets up off the ground on concrete blocks or something similar (I can get them here for $0.50 each in the boneyard at the local block making place). The higher the better. Your pallets will last a long time.

And, contrary to what some might think, orient your stacks so that prevailing winds blow against the end of the stack (across the ends of your splits). As opposed to into the end of the splits/side of the stack. I can look out in a rain storm & the ends of my wood will be dry. Unless the wind is blowing in another direction, which does happen sometimes. The wind blowing across the ends will dry the wood real quick.

Cheap easy steps to dry wood.


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## Ashful (Dec 31, 2018)

I just buy heavy 6 mil clear poly plastic sheeting in 8’ x 100’ rolls.  That is enough to cover ten cords in double-wide rows each year, with a little left over.  It hangs down 3 feet on each side, and I fasten it on with T50 staples in a hammer tacker.  

The plastic will not last two years, though.  So I pull it off if anything not used by spring, and throw it in the recycling bucket.  Made of the same stuff as plastic coke bottles and milk jugs (polyethylene), so no one has complained.

This is a temporary solution, to get you thru your first few years.  The only permanent solution is a wood shed.


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Dec 31, 2018)

Ashful said:


> I just buy heavy 6 mil clear poly plastic sheeting in 8’ x 100’ rolls.  That is enough to cover ten cords in double-wide rows each year, with a little left over.  It hangs down 3 feet on each side, and I fasten it on with T50 staples in a hammer tacker.
> 
> The plastic will not last two years, though.  So I pull it off if anything not used by spring, and throw it in the recycling bucket.  Made of the same stuff as plastic coke bottles and milk jugs (polyethylene), so no one has complained.
> 
> This is a temporary solution, to get you thru your first few years.  The only permanent solution is a wood shed.


Not that you think much about it, but what's the cost of the roll of 6 mil clear poly vs. brown tarps of equivalent coverage as Maple described, which can last for at least several years?  

A neighbor and long-time wood heater covered with clear poly.  It is about as unsightly as white or blue tarps, definitely less attractive than brown.He had a long-time feud with a prickly neighbor about it.  

Perhaps you were getting some solar kiln effect with the clear?

The wood burning neighbor won the feud with the neighbor who didn't like it.  She died of a heart attack.


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## Ashful (Dec 31, 2018)

ED 3000 said:


> Not that you think much about it, but what's the cost of the roll of 6 mil clear poly vs. brown tarps of equivalent coverage as Maple described, which can last for at least several years?
> 
> A neighbor and long-time wood heater covered with clear poly.  It is about as unsightly as white or blue tarps, definitely less attractive than brown.He had a long-time feud with a prickly neighbor about it.
> 
> ...


lol... I used to use the black poly, which definitely looks better.  But the last few years it hasn't been available in the width I use at the local store.  Mine is hiding way out back, where no one really sees it.  Can't remember what it cost, but it's not a lot.  Again, not a permanent solution, but it has gotten me through the last several years, while other projects took precedence over the wood shed build.


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## Wood1Dennis (Jan 3, 2019)

If you have any farms near by, see if you can get some remnants from silage bags. They are made of heavy plastic, designed to hold up to the sun. They have a black side and a white side, take your pick. Got mine for free from the brother-in-law.


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## Kiotick4010 (Jan 5, 2019)

I have a small, 10’x20’ shed that I keep the splitter, garbage and recycling cans, plus a little junk that should probably be thrown out in.  It doubles as a wood shed for storing one row, about 7’ tall, along each of the 20’ sides.  I try to rotate seasoned wood in there so I don’t have to knock snow off the splits when I bring wood into the garage where I burn most of it.

The newer wood gets stacked on pallets along side the shed.  I have used the blue tarps.  They sort of work, but the few pieces of rubber roofing I have work better.  The rubber is heavier so it is easier to keep in place by putting a few splits on top.

The last couple of years, as my blue tarps disintegrated, I put some common Tyvek and a piece of lumber wrap (the stuff that is used to cover bundles of wood for delivery to the lumber yard).

The Tyvek seems to work particularly well, as it breathes to some extent, yet. Blocks the rain and snowmelt.  The lumber wrap works, but doesn’t breathe as well.

 I have used black plastic previously and it was an unmitigated disaster as far as getting wood to season.  It doesn’t allow the stack to breathe at all, and I ended up with moldy, rotting wood.

There is no good way to tie  the Tyvek down, but that doesn’t seem to matter if you weigh the top down with enough splits.

One other comment:  don’t stack under trees.  Your wood needs sunshine to expedite drying.


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## fire_man (Jan 5, 2019)

I cover my stacks with plywood and then good quality tarps. 

This is the next best setup to a woodshed for keeping the wood super dry and the tarps last a really long time thanks to the plywood.


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## mar13 (Jan 5, 2019)

Wood is uncovered during the summer (summer rain is rare), then sealed under a layer of tarps.  If some wood isn't fully seasoned, it gets some air during the winter & is separate from the multi-year seasoned wood which is covered tightly.  Brown tarps from Costco have been the best value & durable tarps I've found.  Rebar & lead dive weights hold it down well & allow relatively easy access to the wood.  Older tarps separate the new outer tarp from the wood to prevent holes.   The moisture content measures fine when I pull wood out from beneath the tarps.

That said, I'm tired of tarping and want a wood shed. I just need to figure out a design that I'm capable of building & looks decent.  The forum will hear from me  when that time draws closer.


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## TedyOH (Jan 6, 2019)

$14  20' x4' tarp, washers, sheet rock screws and a drill.
	

		
			
		

		
	










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## fire_man (Jan 6, 2019)

I use to just tarp mine but rodents kept chewing thru the tarps and my stacks got soaking wet.

That's some looking nice dry wood in there!


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## smittwood (Jan 7, 2019)

mar13 said:


> Wood is uncovered during the summer (summer rain is rare), then sealed under a layer of tarps.  If some wood isn't fully seasoned, it gets some air during the winter & is separate from the multi-year seasoned wood which is covered tightly.  Brown tarps from Costco have been the best value & durable tarps I've found.  Rebar & lead dive weights hold it down well & allow relatively easy access to the wood.  Older tarps separate the new outer tarp from the wood to prevent holes.   The moisture content measures fine when I pull wood out from beneath the tarps.
> 
> That said, I'm tired of tarping and want a wood shed. I just need to figure out a design that I'm capable of building & looks decent.  The forum will hear from me  when that time draws closer.



Same issue. I'm tired of tarping too.  I want a shed.


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## buc74 (Jan 9, 2019)

We so far have bought 3 rolls of the rubber roofing over the last 4 years I'd say. 10'x20 for $95 on sale from Menards. I can cover 2 cords with a roll nicely. Now that I'm far enough ahead with my 3 year plan I likely will so longer ever need to buy wood. Between our land up north and scrounging of wood we'll have plenty. So we have justified the rubber based on our wood savings. Not cheap way to cover buts works well and should last for many years I would guess.


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## Petstang (Jan 11, 2019)

jscs.moore said:


> Hey Guys...I've been burning wood for about 3 years now in my Hampton HI300 insert. Having gone through the whole wet wood stuff in my first season I can now confidently say I have caught the dry wood religion However, I have struggled with the whole tarp thing. I store about 4 cords in my yard and have used the crappy hardware store plastic tarps, but always find that they tear and wear out pretty quickly.
> 
> So I'm looking for advice on the best way to effectively tarp my wood. I can't afford, nor have time, to build a wood shed. I have looked on-line for some of the upgraded tarps from places like woodland direct and other sites, but they are ridiculously expensive to cover a basic 8x4 woodrack...about $150 bucks! Anyway, we had so much rain this past summer and fall...I want to really protect my wood this year and looking for the most effective way to tarp. Been thinking about doubling up on the cheapy tarps and using bungee cords to cinch them down tight?



I top cover only. I use rolls of plastic sheeting from Home Depot. I cut it wide enough just so that it hangs down a couple of inches on each side of the stack. I hold it down with uglies, rocks, etc. Lasts about 2 years before I need to replace it. The clear plastic lets the light through to help dry the top layer. 

I never cover the whole face of the stack. You need to let air circulate through the logs to dry it out. The amount of rain that hits the end of each log dries out quickly.


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## fire_man (Jan 11, 2019)

Petstang said:


> I top cover only. I use rolls of plastic sheeting from Home Depot. I cut it wide enough just so that it hangs down a couple of inches on each side of the stack. I hold it down with uglies, rocks, etc. Lasts about 2 years before I need to replace it. The clear plastic lets the light through to help dry the top layer.
> 
> I never cover the whole face of the stack. You need to let air circulate through the logs to dry it out. The amount of rain that hits the end of each log dries out quickly.




That cheap pastic never worked for me. It disintegrates in a couple years and lets water in. I buy good quality tarps and put them on top of plywood - lasts years. 

I'm too poor to buy cheap things!


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