# Insulating a barn but afraid of mice...



## mwhitnee (Sep 29, 2015)

I recently bought a home with a little barn.  It had many mice in it.  The second floor was cleaned very well and vacuumed everywhere and I even mopped the floor a little.  There were mice on both floors. I just finished gutting the first floor.

I pretty much eradicated them last year, but when tearing down the old ceiling between the first and second floor which had older drywall (only on half the ceiling, ?) The insulation was unbelievably bad and there were some mice in it. Like raining mouse chit. I literally grabbed a few smaller mice and put them in a bucket to release them.  It was probably the nastiest job I have ever done.

Anyway, there are no walls/ceilings left (never were any walls and no ceiling on 2nd). The roof was stripped last year and a new roof on, as it was raining water inside and providing water for the mice.  There is no food in the barn. I have some mouse traps set up but there really aren't any comfortable places to hide anymore.

I want to insulate the first floor and put drywall and a propane heater up, but I'm afraid the mice are just going to get back into the ceiling which would drive me nuts.

Any way to pretreat the insulation?  I know of the typical ways to mouse proof but of they want to find a way in they probably will....


----------



## Highbeam (Sep 29, 2015)

They won't find a way in unless you provide it. Build it like a house. Seal everything. I insulated the crap out of my barn but still sealed it well and store no food. No mice. Heck, i learned about good chemicals and now I have no spiders or insects either.


----------



## semipro (Sep 30, 2015)

I've experienced much the same situation in our house.  The mice made a mess of the FG batts above our basement drywall ceiling.  Removing and cleaning it up was much as you describe, a shower of dirt, insect parts, mouse crap, and FG insulation. It may be helpful to keep in mind that mice use invisible urine trails to navigate.  Unless these are removed new mice will use them to enter and find their way around.
I'm rebuilding our basement and one of the reasons I chose mineral wool batt insulation was because of its reported dislike by mice.  So your choice of insulation is important.


----------



## EJL923 (Sep 30, 2015)

A lack of food an water wont deter them as they are looking for a warm place.  Sealing every little gap is important.


----------



## mwhitnee (Sep 30, 2015)

I have a concrete foundation, all of it sits off the ground before it hits the siding but in many places not much.  But there are other areas where it almost touches the ground. Can mice climb up a concrete wall? How would I mouse-proof the bottom edge of the siding?  The walls are also open on the inside so maybe there is a way I can seal the bottom of the wall.

Besides that there is no way in besides the doors.


----------



## semipro (Sep 30, 2015)

Mice can jump, climb well, and fit through incredibly small holes. They can also chew through just about anything softer than metal including wood, foam, plastic, etc.


----------



## mwhitnee (Sep 30, 2015)

Sort of looks like this all around.  How would I start mouse-proofing the bottom edge of the siding?


----------



## EJL923 (Sep 30, 2015)

Inspect where the foundation meets the siding very closely.  They can find little gaps to squeeze in.  Find a material they dont like to chew to seal those gaps.  I believe dow great stuff has a version made for pests which, maybe its bitter or something.  Steel wool works, people use it in winter to block entry into their campers.  Never used the mineral wool insulation for pest blocking, but it sounds like a good idea


----------



## mwhitnee (Sep 30, 2015)

Inside. Ceiling is all down now. You should have seen this place before i got to it.


----------



## mwhitnee (Sep 30, 2015)

semipro said:


> I've experienced much the same situation in our house.  The mice made a mess of the FG batts above our basement drywall ceiling.  Removing and cleaning it up was much as you describe, a shower of dirt, insect parts, mouse crap, and FG insulation. It may be helpful to keep in mind that mice use invisible urine trails to navigate.  Unless these are removed new mice will use them to enter and find their way around.
> I'm rebuilding our basement and one of the reasons I chose mineral wool batt insulation was because of its reported dislike by mice.  So your choice of insulation is important.




I am using this to spray before I insulate.  It is s disinfectant, virucide, and fungicide.

http://www.odoban.com/products/odoban-concentrates.php


----------



## mwhitnee (Sep 30, 2015)

The Great Stuff does not have "great" reviews but I'm sure it has it's uses in my house so I will get some..  This should work well...

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...ats+Pest+Control+100+Feet+birds+++wi&_sacat=0


----------



## DougA (Sep 30, 2015)

Mice will get in anywhere.  I have watched them climb up the walls outside my house and get through a tiny 1/4" gap between the soffit and brick.  If you seal everything at ground level, they'll just keep climbing until they chew a way inside.  Metal lathe used for ceramic tile works well. Mice won't chew through it but rats will.  Lack of food will keep your population lower but they will find food outside and bring it in to your barn. Be thankful you don't have racoon families inside your barn - yet!
The best method is to try to fill all the cracks with heavy steel wool, mouse traps everywhere, and go to your local SPCA or CL and get some free cats to patrol your barn.  Feed them just enough so they're OK but fat cats do not hunt very well.  You can get heavy stainless steel wool from restaurant supply stores.  They use it to scrub pots & pans.


----------



## mwhitnee (Sep 30, 2015)

DougA said:


> Mice will get in anywhere.  I have watched them climb up the walls outside my house and get through a tiny 1/4" gap between the soffit and brick.  If you seal everything at ground level, they'll just keep climbing until they chew a way inside.  Metal lathe used for ceramic tile works well. Mice won't chew through it but rats will.  Lack of food will keep your population lower but they will find food outside and bring it in to your barn. Be thankful you don't have racoon families inside your barn - yet!
> The best method is to try to fill all the cracks with heavy steel wool, mouse traps everywhere, and go to your local SPCA or CL and get some free cats to patrol your barn.  Feed them just enough so they're OK but fat cats do not hunt very well.  You can get heavy stainless steel wool from restaurant supply stores.  They use it to scrub pots & pans.




Allergic to cats and yes please no raccoon! I once had to deal with one though and caught it in a have a heart trap.

I bought copper mesh as I can probably cut it to lengths and then roll it into a tube, stuffing it under the first piece of siding.  I would think that steel wool would rust if I used it for that particular application.

Can a mouse climb up vinyl siding?


----------



## Bioburner (Sep 30, 2015)

Bronze wool and stainless can be had at a good wood tool store.


----------



## mwhitnee (Sep 30, 2015)

DougA said:


> Mice will get in anywhere.  I have watched them climb up the walls outside my house and get through a tiny 1/4" gap between the soffit and brick.  If you seal everything at ground level, they'll just keep climbing until they chew a way inside.  Metal lathe used for ceramic tile works well. Mice won't chew through it but rats will.  Lack of food will keep your population lower but they will find food outside and bring it in to your barn. Be thankful you don't have racoon families inside your barn - yet!
> The best method is to try to fill all the cracks with heavy steel wool, mouse traps everywhere, and go to your local SPCA or CL and get some free cats to patrol your barn.  Feed them just enough so they're OK but fat cats do not hunt very well.  You can get heavy stainless steel wool from restaurant supply stores.  They use it to scrub pots & pans.



Sorry I didn't see the stainless steel part of that message! Looks like Ebay has that..


----------



## kennyp2339 (Oct 2, 2015)

mwhitnee said:


> Allergic to cats and yes please no raccoon! I once had to deal with one though and caught it in a have a heart trap


 
Garage cat then - in door out door, no inside the regular house kind of cat  - I have a indoor out door in my house cat that is part feral and would rather live outside, but I force her in at night (food dish is inside) I couldn't believe how good of a hunter she is, no more mice, moles, chipmunks, birds, snakes, rabbits, butter flies. moths, ect.. neighbors love her to because of the major decrease in rabbit / mouse population.


----------



## EatenByLimestone (Oct 4, 2015)

Silicone works well for small gaps.  Copper mesh or steel wool can be used as a backer.  Pay attention to the door.  All that work is for nothing if they can use the door.  There are foams with pepper mixed in that will keep rodents out.  Mice will enter a quarter inch gap as said above.  Start at a corner and work your way around.


----------



## maple1 (Oct 7, 2015)

I have found it is practically impossible to keep mice out of our house. I don't know how, but they find their way in. I keep a trap line going in the basement, half a dozen or so of them.

Mice absolutely LOVE fiberglass insulation, so avoid that for starters. Rock wool (Roxul) is perhaps the best but it is quite a bit more expensive.


----------



## mwhitnee (Oct 7, 2015)

I got the brass mesh it's really great. Flexible you can stuff in just about anywhere I would think- but have yet to try it.  I have some Great Stuff for pests which I will use as well.  I also have silicone, so I think I have all of my bases covered.

Now to start finding the areas where they get in.  As long as they can't climb siding I might be pretty successful.


----------



## mwhitnee (Oct 7, 2015)

maple1 said:


> I have found it is practically impossible to keep mice out of our house. I don't know how, but they find their way in. I keep a trap line going in the basement, half a dozen or so of them.
> 
> Mice absolutely LOVE fiberglass insulation, so avoid that for starters. Rock wool (Roxul) is perhaps the best but it is quite a bit more expensive.



What about using rock wool on the walls of the 1st floor of the barn and the fiberglass for the ceiling? They would definitely have to climb up the wall to get there as there is no other way in.


----------



## maple1 (Oct 7, 2015)

I would suspect that once they find the fiberglass they will become permanent residents.

Friend of mine has a camp in the woods. He put fiberglass in the ceilings & walls when he built, years ago. He finally had to gut the place & get rid of the fiberglass, the smell was just getting too bad. He didn't bother putting any insulation back in, he just put a layer of OSB up on the inside. Has had no more mouse problems.


----------



## semipro (Oct 7, 2015)

I've replaced all the FG in our basement with panel or spray foam and Roxul and our mouse issues have decreased to almost nothing. 
 A lot of that may be attributable to the air sealing done at the same time though.


----------



## mwhitnee (Oct 7, 2015)

maple1 said:


> I would suspect that once they find the fiberglass they will become permanent residents.
> 
> Friend of mine has a camp in the woods. He put fiberglass in the ceilings & walls when he built, years ago. He finally had to gut the place & get rid of the fiberglass, the smell was just getting too bad. He didn't bother putting any insulation back in, he just put a layer of OSB up on the inside. Has had no more mouse problems.



Is that like particle board sheets?  If so, that would definitely be a code issue when I put my heater in.


----------



## mwhitnee (Oct 7, 2015)

How much more is Roxul than regular fiberglass insulation, 50% more?


----------



## maple1 (Oct 7, 2015)

I'm not sure, but it's really good stuff. Especially compared to FG batts. I used it to insulate my storage tanks.


----------



## maple1 (Oct 7, 2015)

mwhitnee said:


> Is that like particle board sheets?  If so, that would definitely be a code issue when I put my heater in.



Yes. This was just a camp in the woods. Doesn't seem to miss the insulation much, it's got a good woostove in it & the OSB went up tight enough that there's an air sandwich in the walls now. Not ideal for a house but worked great for that.


----------



## jeffesonm (Oct 7, 2015)

Get a barn cat.  It will live outside in the barn and you'll probably never see it, but it will slaughter all the mice within a mile.  I have two fat house cats and they've killed 4 mice in the past week.


----------



## beatlefan (Oct 7, 2015)

I agree with EJL that lack of food/water is not a deterrent. I live in the woods and deal with mice often in my sheds and barn. House is well sealed and we have a cat, so no problems there. 

Sheds and barns are a different story. My best defense is a good cleaning to eradicate the infestation, which it sounds like you've already done. After that, maintenance is fairly simple with Decon pellets. However, if you get a barn cat, switch to traps so the cat doesn't eat a poisoned mouse.


----------



## DougA (Oct 7, 2015)

If you ever manager to get rid of the mice, your place will fill up with bats.  Just sayin' ... you need to learn to live with the rest of the critters to some extent.


----------



## semipro (Oct 7, 2015)

beatlefan said:


> maintenance is fairly simple with Decon pellets. However, if you get a barn cat, switch to traps so the cat doesn't eat a poisoned mouse.


What about the other animals that eat mice?  Do you really want to kill them?  The deaths of many birds of prey have been attributed to rodent poison.

There are enough good alternatives to poison that it rarely needs to be used.  I prefer electronic traps myself.


----------



## BlueRidgeMark (Oct 8, 2015)

semipro said:


> What about the other animals that eat mice?  Do you really want to kill them?  The deaths of many birds of prey have been attributed to rodent poison.




I put the poison in child-proof bait stations, and they are inside the house.   No problem for the squirrels or the birds that eat them.   I have not found traps to be effective where I live.  Oh, they do catch the mice, but not in sufficient quantities.


As for the insulation, look into cementitious foam.   Like urethane spray foam, but it's basically concrete.  Absolutely fireproof (a welding torch won't affect it), and rodent proof.  Bugs don't like it either.  It's probably more expensive than other choices, but it sure won't harbor mice.


----------



## mwhitnee (Oct 14, 2015)

I had a guy come to do an estimate for a couple reasons: 1) I wanted his opinion on things and 2) I heard that having a company do it can be very comparable to doing it yourself.

Emailed him about using rock wool insulation as a mouse deterrent and he said it does not deter them and he could not achieve the R value he can with fiberglass.

I have some copper mesh I just ordered- boy what great stuff that is.  Cut with scissors, doesn't hurt your hands at all, you can ball it up as it's very light and flexible.


----------



## semipro (Oct 15, 2015)

mwhitnee said:


> I had a guy come to do an estimate for a couple reasons: 1) I wanted his opinion on things and 2) I heard that having a company do it can be very comparable to doing it yourself.
> 
> Emailed him about using rock wool insulation as a mouse deterrent and he said it does not deter them and he could not achieve the R value he can with fiberglass.


I'm guessing he makes much more on fiberglass than he does with rock wool.
Before I got rid of all the fiberglass we had both fiberglass and rock wool installed concurrently in our basement and under-house garage for a few years.  I can tell you I found numerous fiberglass mouse nests in my tool boxes, cabinets, etc.  I have yet to find a mouse nest made of rock wool.  
The latest issue of Fine Home Building has a nice article on rock wool.  Its worth a read.


----------



## semipro (Oct 15, 2015)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> I put the poison in child-proof bait stations, and they are inside the house. No problem for the squirrels or the birds that eat them. I have not found traps to be effective where I live. Oh, they do catch the mice, but not in sufficient quantities.


I think you may be missing my point.  I referring to the animals that eat the mice killed with poison.  The dosed mice may go outside to die.


----------



## mwhitnee (Oct 15, 2015)

semipro said:


> I'm guessing he makes much more on fiberglass than he does with rock wool.
> Before I got rid of all the fiberglass we had both fiberglass and rock wool installed concurrently in our basement and under-house garage for a few years.  I can tell you I found numerous fiberglass mouse nests in my tool boxes, cabinets, etc.  I have yet to find a mouse nest made of rock wool.
> The latest issue of Fine Home Building has a nice article on rock wool.  Its worth a read.



The guy seemed pretty honest when he came for the estimate- I'm saying that because he recommended to not replace my cellar insulation and keep what was there. 

The more I talk about this the more I want to insulate it myself. I typically do everything myself, and things like this just remind me of why I do.


----------



## BlueRidgeMark (Oct 15, 2015)

semipro said:


> I think you may be missing my point.  I referring to the animals that eat the mice killed with poison.  The dosed mice may go outside to die.




Possible, but extremely unlikely.  They came into the house for a reason - comfort.  They are not likely going to crawl out into the cold to die.  They prefer to stay in my house and stink.


----------



## semipro (Oct 15, 2015)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> Possible, but extremely unlikely.  They came into the house for a reason - comfort.  They are not likely going to crawl out into the cold to die.  They prefer to stay in my house and stink.


https://www.audubon.org/magazine/january-february-2013/poisons-used-kill-rodents-have-safer 
Pet dogs and cats have also been impacted.  Its actually quite common.


----------



## semipro (Oct 15, 2015)

mwhitnee said:


> The more I talk about this the more I want to insulate it myself. I typically do everything myself, and things like this just remind me of why I do.


I'm the same way.  I've also heard from others that a contractor can do the job for less than what I would pay for the materials.


----------



## mwhitnee (Oct 15, 2015)

semipro said:


> I'm the same way.  I've also heard from others that a contractor can do the job for less than what I would pay for the materials.



That's what I also heard. 

I'll will make a decision on the insulation after the rodent-proofing and wiring is done. I would have to price things out.  If it's anywhere near what I could do it for- no matter what insulation I use I'll have them do it.  I always have plenty to do!!


----------



## BlueRidgeMark (Oct 15, 2015)

semipro said:


> https://www.audubon.org/magazine/january-february-2013/poisons-used-kill-rodents-have-safer
> Pet dogs and cats have also been impacted.  Its actually quite common.




I find the Audubon Society just about as credible and respectable as PETA.  (Which is to say, not even a little bit.)  It's a shame, too, considering that they used to be a good outfit.

Now, they are just a tool of the whacko animal rightists.  I pay them, and their kind, zero attention.

Perhaps we should leave it at that.


----------



## Lumber-Jack (Oct 19, 2015)

Garage doors almost never seal tight enough to keep mice out. That should be your first challenge. 
I don't understand the suggestion of rock wool, I've seen mice nest in rock wool. Heck if I had to build a bed to sleep in I'd rather use rock wool then fiberglass insulation.
Sealing up all the possible entry points is you best plan of attack. And yes, you'll have to assume they can climb up the siding, so you'll have to make sure all entrance point along your soffit and roof are also sealed. 
You have to think like a mouse and anticipate their moves.


----------



## semipro (Oct 19, 2015)

Lumber-Jack said:


> Heck if I had to build a bed to sleep in I'd rather use rock wool then fiberglass insulation.


2nd that.  As a mouse I'd think it be more a factor of what I was willing to chew on rather than sleep on. I wouldn't like to chew on either but I've seen mice chew on Lava soap so who knows.


----------



## gzecc (Oct 19, 2015)

I think cellulose is another option that critters don't like.


----------



## mwhitnee (Oct 20, 2015)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> Possible, but extremely unlikely.  They came into the house for a reason - comfort.  They are not likely going to crawl out into the cold to die.  They prefer to stay in my house and stink.



I always thought they went out for water after eating poison.


----------



## mwhitnee (Oct 20, 2015)

Lumber-Jack said:


> Garage doors almost never seal tight enough to keep mice out. That should be your first challenge.
> I don't understand the suggestion of rock wool, I've seen mice nest in rock wool. Heck if I had to build a bed to sleep in I'd rather use rock wool then fiberglass insulation.
> Sealing up all the possible entry points is you best plan of attack. And yes, you'll have to assume they can climb up the siding, so you'll have to make sure all entrance point along your soffit and roof are also sealed.
> You have to think like a mouse and anticipate their moves.



Too funny!!


----------



## JA600L (Oct 31, 2015)

I had a major mouse problem in my house.  
I just could not figure out how they got in.  I followed the entire foundation around until I found a big gaping hole in the concrete that was covered slightly.  Once I filled that in I haven't seen a single mouse.  Sometimes it's just that one spot you have to find....


----------



## mwhitnee (Oct 31, 2015)

JA600L said:


> I had a major mouse problem in my house.
> I just could not figure out how they got in.  I followed the entire foundation around until I found a big gaping hole in the concrete that was covered slightly.  Once I filled that in I haven't seen a single mouse.  Sometimes it's just that one spot you have to find....



I started on my house first as my gf thought she heard a little scratching one night.  I actually found a large hole where my new foundation meets the old. Might have been able to stick a 2 by 4 in it!

Caught one mouse, hopefully there won't be any more as I used copper mesh and great stuff all around the foundation.


----------



## rowerwet (Nov 1, 2015)

Get a cat! My daughters justifies her cost with a steady stream of dead mice. I don't need to worry about my campers thanks to her.


----------



## semipro (Feb 8, 2016)

When considering poison baits:
"Suffering bobcats, coyotes, owls spur Thousand Oaks neighborhood to rethink war on rats"
http://www.latimes.com/science/la-me-0206-rats-20160208-story.html

A related quote: 
"The insanity of it all is that in trying to wipe out rats they are killing the very animals that keep rat populations under control."


----------



## webfish (Feb 8, 2016)

I have used this method for years. Never had mouse in the house as I leave this in the garage.Catch 3 or 4 then they are gone. I tend to set it up in the fall then don't think about it. I live in the middle of a field so mice everywhere.


----------



## EatenByLimestone (Feb 9, 2016)

semipro said:


> When considering poison baits:
> "Suffering bobcats, coyotes, owls spur Thousand Oaks neighborhood to rethink war on rats"
> http://www.latimes.com/science/la-me-0206-rats-20160208-story.html
> 
> ...




The problem with this story lies in how the anticoagulants work.  The animal needs to ingest about 10% of their weight.  Birds are extremely !eight, so its possible they could eat enough rodents to vet a lethal dose.  But I have a hard time believing this could happen with a bobcat or coyote.  You are looking at pounds of it being needed when bait stations hold between 22 and 200 grams each.


----------



## mwhitnee (Feb 10, 2016)

Not using poison baits anymore, have been using these.  I bought 14 of them, most in the cellar and attic in my house.  They are extremely easy to use and appear to be very deadly.  I wish I knew who recommended them to me on here!!

Eaten by Limestone has been a great help.  Thanks buddy!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PE1OUOM/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1455130177&sr=1&keywords=mouse+trap

I haven't had any mice in my barn for about a month using these.  I haven't checked the attic recently but the cellar has not had a mouse in about 2 weeks.  I might still have a little hole somewhere in the foundation of the house that I missed, or it's possible that I just had more mice than I thought.  I'm just hoping this problem is solved....

I have a question, does mouse urine stink forever or eventually go away??


----------



## semipro (Feb 10, 2016)

EatenByLimestone said:


> The problem with this story lies in how the anticoagulants work.  The animal needs to ingest about 10% of their weight.  Birds are extremely !eight, so its possible they could eat enough rodents to vet a lethal dose.  But I have a hard time believing this could happen with a bobcat or coyote.  You are looking at pounds of it being needed when bait stations hold between 22 and 200 grams each.


I believe the issue with secondary intake is bio-accumulation where small doses received from eating multiple contaminated animals build up in predator/scavenger tissues until they become toxic.  This seems to be a good reference. http://www.cdpr.ca.gov/docs/registration/reevaluation/chemicals/brodifacoum_final_assess.pdf


----------



## EatenByLimestone (Feb 11, 2016)

mwhitnee said:


> Not using poison baits anymore, have been using these.  I bought 14 of them, most in the cellar and attic in my house.  They are extremely easy to use and appear to be very deadly.  I wish I knew who recommended them to me on here!!
> 
> Eaten by Limestone has been a great help.  Thanks buddy!
> 
> ...




Awesome!  I imagine that it would eventually go away, but I have no idea of a time table.  Pet stores sell sprays that seem to eat the smell, not just cover it up. I got the nicotine smell out if a truck with it.  They claim enzymes, but I have no idea if that's what does it.


----------



## EatenByLimestone (Feb 11, 2016)

semipro said:


> I believe the issue with secondary intake is bio-accumulation where small doses received from eating multiple contaminated animals build up in predator/scavenger tissues until they become toxic.  This seems to be a good reference. http://www.cdpr.ca.gov/docs/registration/reevaluation/chemicals/brodifacoum_final_assess.pdf



It certainly is a risk, but the volume us once again an issue. The average mouse is 10-15g.  1 to 1.5g of anti coagulant is the LD 50.  There are 453 grams in a pound.  A bobcat weighs 20lbs.  You are looking at 900 mice!  Not all the mice they eat would have consumed the anticoagulant.  The article says many of the animals had some of the drug in them, but only 3% had a lethal dose.  I'm betting those were the birds.

As I said earlier, birds are unique.  Given their bones can be hollow and their feathers weigh more than their bodies I can see an issue for smaller birds.  Some owls are quite small.  All birds that fly are put together with a high importance put on weight.

That said, I prefer to seal up a house so they can't get in and then trap the unlucky onesthat were inside at sealup time.  I think it is better to solve the issue without poisons than to try to control the issue with them.

For those who wish to just control the problem, going with a bait block vs a bait pellet is more effective since the mouse has to eat at the fixed location and can not hoard the bait.  I know people who have found warfarin pellets in their pillow cases.


----------



## FTG-05 (Feb 12, 2016)

Subcontract it out to a professional:






Really, the choice is between cats or rats, literally.  And if you're decision is "rats" because your allergic to cats, then get ready for snakes.  Becasue that's the only reason snakes will be around.

I have four shop cats.  They roam all over the place around my +35 acre farm.  They interact with me only because I like them and they like me.  If that wasn't true, I doubt I'd even see them.

So go get a couple barn/shop cats, make sure they're fixed and they'll not only take care of your rats (and snake) problem, they'll keep other wild cats away.

Good luck!


----------



## mwhitnee (Feb 12, 2016)

Nope!! Sticking to my traps. My barn is small, just a 2 car garage with a second floor.  I've maybe caught three since I ripped the ceiling down this summer, and not a mouse in a month or two.

There are woods to the right of my barn, nothing on the other three sides.  Probably 100 feet of woods before the next house.  When I moved in last November I once noticed a mouse go bouncing through the snow from my barn into a dilapidated shed in those woods.  I was planning on cleaning it up anyway (I mean who would leave that in plain view??). Don't even get me started on the last owner of my house...

Last spring I filled up a 10 yarder with that shed and everything else that was inorganic that I saw in the woods.  That shed was a perfect breeding ground for mice!!


----------



## rkusek (Feb 12, 2016)

That works for my inlaws.  They maintain 4-8 outside (1/2 wild) cats on a regular basis with a couple litters born every year.  The males usually roam off and I believe raccoons probably get a few too.  They have an insulated cat house (dog house with small door) which works great especially when they have babies.  The tame ones will spend a night in the barn as they will come in to hunt while my FIL is working.  He let's them stay in every so often just to make sure no mice have moved in.  They feed them cheap cat food twice a day but they are still great mousers killing moles and ground squirrels too.  I think even if you never let them in the barn they would take care of your problem by thinning out the population near your home.


----------



## jeanw (Feb 12, 2016)

yeah bought some Roxul at Lowes..for insulating the basement ceiling for noise and warmth....
prev bought the denim UNFORTUNATELY.. last year or so...
.now Hubby says he found a mouse on the glue trap with the denim insulation in its mouth!!
House was bought with aoutical tile.... they loved it.. full of mouse poo... so we took all thart down
Plus the DA original owners. were smokers
  Plus mice were getting in the little gaps around basemnt  wall hung kitchen cabinets
Hate them CRITTERS....
only good thing about our feral cat is he  is outside only..... He sleeps in a nice "house" made from a nice LR enclosed end table cabinet and insulated ...
and put in a heated animal pad.... He is on front deck that has an aluminum patio cover....
 I keep telling him he has to work and keep away mice...
we do have less mice.. but CAT wont go for the blankey moles that are destroying the areas.....


----------

