# Splitter Hydraulic Tank Weld Leak



## velvetfoot (Jun 13, 2011)

There's a (currently small) leak through a weld on the bottom of the hyd. tank to the platform.
(There was a small puddle on the garage floor.)
I've never towed it and don't plan on it.
Is there some sort of epoxy or the like that can be globbed on there to stop the leak?
I'm assuming the tank would have to be drained, I guess.
It just has to hold back the pressure of the fluid in the tank.

Or should I bring it to a welder?

I guess I'll put a pan under the darn thing all the time now.


----------



## Jags (Jun 13, 2011)

No type of epoxy is gonna stick well, unless the area is completely cleaned of the hydro oil.  Spotless, makes you want to lick it, clean.  It would be a quick job for somebody with a mig welder.  The weld will not have to be "burned" in, as it is simply a seal and strength is not an issue.  So - with a mig, run it cool, clean the area and patch it up.  Me personally, I wouldn't even drain the tank.  I would be done in 2 seconds. 

Just one dudes opinion.


----------



## smokinj (Jun 13, 2011)

What kind of splitter is this?


----------



## velvetfoot (Jun 13, 2011)

Thanks much Jags.  I'll have to ask around for welder recommendations.  Hopefully the leak stays slow enough to get through this log load.

sj, it is a HF 30 ton.  I repaired the cylinder in the 'off season' and no leaks, but now this!  uggh.


----------



## hemlock (Jun 13, 2011)

Can you get a centre/prick punch on it?  If its not pressurized, sometimes you can just peen it to stop a small leak.


----------



## Jags (Jun 13, 2011)

hemlock said:
			
		

> Can you get a centre/prick punch on it?  If its not pressurized, sometimes you can just peen it to stop a small leak.



Very true.  On a very small crack, this could work.


----------



## kevin j (Jun 13, 2011)

If there is a crack, there may be a reason that will re occur after you weld it.
If the tank weight is supported off the brackets, as typical cheap universal tanks often are, the bending stresses will keep cracking the new welds.
I would look at the source of the stresses and cracking first, resolve the weight or support or gusset issues, then drain, clean, remove if necessary, and have it welded.

They can be welded with oil in place, but the porousity and oil in the crack usually means the weld is only a patch job.

There are some wicking type loctite sealants, but I have not had great luck in this situation. 
The peening idea seems great as a first try.


----------



## velvetfoot (Jun 14, 2011)

After I finish this log load, I might try JB Weld, after draining tank and grinding and cleaning well.


----------



## Elderthewelder (Jun 14, 2011)

velvetfoot said:
			
		

> After I finish this log load, I might try JB Weld, after draining tank and grinding and cleaning well.



If you are going to take the time to drain the tank, grind out the crack, and clean up the area with solvent, why waste your time with JB weld??  Do you know anybody with a mig or wire feed machine, or even a old buzz box stick welding machine?

Maybe check craigslist for someone offering welding services for cheap


----------



## Jags (Jun 14, 2011)

Elderthewelder said:
			
		

> If you are going to take the time to drain the tank, grind out the crack, and clean up the area with solvent, why waste your time with JB weld??  Do you know anybody with a mig or wire feed machine, or even a old buzz box stick welding machine?
> 
> Maybe check craigslist for someone offering welding services for cheap



+100 - You are already doing the majority of the work, might as well go whole hog with it.  Kevin brings up a valid point as well.  Is there a reason it cracked??  You may want to take a look at any kind of local "stress" points that could have caused this crack.  If it is by a mounting point, have your welder fix the crack and plate the weak area.  It shouldn't add much to the bill.


----------



## John_M (Jun 14, 2011)

Elderthewelder and Kevin and  Jags +1

John_M


----------



## bfunk13 (Jun 14, 2011)

I agree, drain the tank and spot weld it.
Anyone decent with a mig should be able to do this in a few seconds and for nothing or next to it. 
You could weld it without draining, but oil and welding dont mix so well. 
Drain it, clean it, grind if needed, weld, fill, Split!


----------



## velvetfoot (Jun 15, 2011)

I put a yogurt container under the leak after cleaning the area, so I could re-use the oil.  It leaked almost 16 oz. since last night.  I globbed some duct seal on it and and put some pressure on it with electrical tape, a short piece of paint stirrer, and several cable ties.  I'm just trying to keep going and finish this log load and do a more permanent fix later.  I'm nervous about welding, because it could be one of those things where I don't get a good welder or somehow the area of repair keeps getting bigger and bigger, like rust or cancer or something.  This tank is not a separate tank but part of the whole splitter - I can't imagine where I'd ever get a replacement for this model.  Plus, I'd have to drag this 500 or so lb. splitter to the shop, having to get it on a trailer, since I wouldn't tow it direct.  It's nice to know that a lot of people have confidence it can be fixed.


----------



## Elderthewelder (Jun 15, 2011)

velvetfoot said:
			
		

> I put a yogurt container under the leak after cleaning the area, so I could re-use the oil.  It leaked almost 16 oz. since last night.  I globbed some duct seal on it and and put some pressure on it with electrical tape, a short piece of paint stirrer, and several cable ties.  I'm just trying to keep going and finish this log load and do a more permanent fix later.  I'm nervous about welding, because it could be one of those things where I don't get a good welder or somehow the area of repair keeps getting bigger and bigger, like rust or cancer or something.  This tank is not a separate tank but part of the whole splitter - I can't imagine where I'd ever get a replacement for this model.  Plus, I'd have to drag this 500 or so lb. splitter to the shop, having to get it on a trailer, since I wouldn't tow it direct.  It's nice to know that a lot of people have confidence it can be fixed.



it's just a piece of metal!  ca you post a pic of the cracked area


----------



## velvetfoot (Jun 15, 2011)

Not now.  The glob is covering it.  No leakage overnight.


----------



## Bone1099 (Jun 17, 2011)

Sounds like a job for "oilyte stick" kinda like a fat crayon.  Simply wipe with alcohol scribble the stick over the hole/crack and leak is fixed.
Unless your crack/hole is compromizing structural integrity of the tank or if the crack is growing or flexing.
hope I caught you in time.


----------



## velvetfoot (Jun 17, 2011)

double post


----------



## velvetfoot (Jun 17, 2011)

Thanks.  I'll look that up.  The glob is still mostly holding.  Would the tank have to be drained?

I'm listening to the Mets/Braves game.  What a rollercoaster.


----------



## velvetfoot (Jun 17, 2011)

I found only one reference to that on Google, and not something for sale.


----------



## oilstinks (Jun 17, 2011)

My tank leaked at the motor mount welded to the tank at the very bottom of the tank. The mount should have been extended down to the bottom of the tank to take care of the sheer forces. Anyway a mig didnt seal it and a stick weld wouldnt either the leak just kept moving on me even cracked a weld on the other side of the mount while i was welding on the opposite. Probably needs brazed. Right now, JB kwik weld has held great and stoped the leak. I grond the metal and roughed up the surface then cleaned it good with starting fluid (ether) and put the JB on. Working Good so far.


----------



## Jags (Jun 17, 2011)

oilstinks said:
			
		

> My tank leaked at the motor mount welded to the tank at the very bottom of the tank. The mount should have been extended down to the bottom of the tank to take care of the sheer forces. Anyway a mig didnt seal it and a stick weld wouldnt either the leak just kept moving on me even cracked a weld on the other side of the mount while i was welding on the opposite. Probably needs brazed. Right now, JB kwik weld has held great and stoped the leak. I grond the metal and roughed up the surface then cleaned it good with starting fluid (ether) and put the JB on. Working Good so far.



If it is "re-cracking" after the repair it makes me believe that it must be a stress point.  That can usually be a fairly easy fix for ANY welding shop.  Plating the area with additional steel to strengthen and dispersing the stress load is probably the only "real" way to make a permanent fix.

Note: most shops will not weld on anything that has fluid behind it.  It will probably require draining the tank.


----------



## Jags (Jun 17, 2011)

As a side note:
During the building phase of my splitter, I actually built my own tank.  I ended up have two pinhole leaks (not bad considering it was done with a stick and there are many feet of weld).  Because the tank was full of oil, I choose to torch weld the pin holes.  It worked well even with fluid behind it, but the trick was to get in and out fast so that no harm to the oil was done.


----------



## oilstinks (Jun 17, 2011)

cracked while i was welding. No matter how much i cleaned apperently the oil in the cracks wouldnt come all the way out until it got hot and expanded. ( yes i drained the oil). I got it sealed to a couple of pin holes. The JB looks bad but it works untill i get it torch brazed.


----------



## Jags (Jun 17, 2011)

oilstinks said:
			
		

> The JB looks bad but it works untill i get it torch brazed.



I am function over form any day of the week. ;-) 
If it works for ya - that is what counts.


----------



## firefighterjake (Jun 17, 2011)

oilstinks said:
			
		

> cracked while i was welding. No matter how much i cleaned apperently the oil in the cracks wouldnt come all the way out until it got hot and expanded. ( yes i drained the oil). I got it sealed to a couple of pin holes. *The JB looks bad but it works *untill i get it torch brazed.



HehHeh . . . you should see some of my cars after I've gone through a tube or two of JB Weld to fix cracked plastic . . . they don't look very pretty either, but it beats buying replacement parts.


----------

