# My Jotul F 500



## victorytea (Dec 27, 2011)

Have had this stove since October and was hoping it would live up to the Jotul name. It only holds a fire for about 5 hrs, It doesn't have an external baffle control so that when you clean the pipe, the soot has no place to go. Does one remove the hex bolts from where the pipe enters the stove ( to clean the pipe)? What am I doing wrong in burning overnight.? I have burnt wood now for over 30 years and am not a beginner- please help.  Paul


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## Butcher (Dec 27, 2011)

You, like I when I installed my 500 this fall may have misunderstood their meaning of "burn time". It should say heat output time. There is no way that you will get flames for the time you think. I installed mine in Oct. too and was of the impression that when they said 8 hour burn times I could keep a load BURNING for 8 hours. This caused me to load and operate the stove completly wrong and at my first 2 week inspection of the flue I found a nice shiney black layer of creasote which I quickly went to work on cleaning out. I was given bad advise from freinds that have totally different kinds of stoves and was under the impression that I could throw big ole unsplit hunks a wood in this thing and it would burn allnight. WRONG.
I can load mine up at 8pm and when I reload in the morning I still have a 455 pound cast iron stove that is at 200Â° external temp which means it is still somewhat heating. I am by no means an expert on these things but I have been really keeping a good eye on this stove, how it behaves and how to operate it in different weather conditions. I love mine so far and hope you learn to love yours too. Them Norwiegions know how to make a stove. As far as the stove pipe, yes, you need to remove the 2 bolts to get the pipe off. Mine are 10mm self tapping bolts. Just be careful on reassembly that you get the holes lined back up correctly cuz if you dont you could actually tighten the bolts and push in the pipe creating a concave in the pipe.


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## Blue Vomit (Dec 27, 2011)

Same boat as well. Do a search here for overnight burn or long burn times. Operating this stove, loading for the night, etc can be a lot different that what you were used to. Little tricks and techniques can help extend that burn time. Good luck.


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## webby3650 (Dec 27, 2011)

As for the burn time, do you shut the air down once the stove is up to temp.? Do you clean the ashes very often? How tall, and what kind of a chimney do you have? All these things can make a difference. On the Oslo, there is an oval plate on top, this is held in with two 10mm bolts, they can be removed from the front, they are right in the center of the stove, remove these bolts. This gains you access to flue collar and baffle. In the older manual it said to remove upon installation, the new manual doesn't say to do that, not sure why. On my Oslo I ran it for two years this way and had no problems. If you have a slip in your pipe, it might be easier to lift the pipe though. I've loved all my Jotuls, I hope you will too.


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## Blue Vomit (Dec 27, 2011)

I'm sure others that know more than me will chime in soon with burn techniques. It will make it easier if you tell us a little about your setup and the fuel you are burning.


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## victorytea (Dec 28, 2011)

I burn 16 inch chunks. usually quartered or sixthed, medim sized chunks well seasoned. As to a previous post from the Master-" On the Oslo, there is an oval plate on top, this is held in with two 10mm bolts, they can be removed from the front, they are right in the center of the stove, remove these bolts. This gains you access to flue collar and baffle. "  I'm sorry, but what do you do now to help the stove?  Thanks guys- Paul


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## ansehnlich1 (Dec 28, 2011)

I put the oslo in our new home around 5 years ago and have burned a quarter tank of fuel oil in that time so I KNOW it's a good heater. Our home is well insulated, heating about 1800 sq. ft. in south central Pennsylvania.

I never get 8 hours of 'flame' time, probably get about what you say, 4 or 5 hours at the most. 

If I want the best bang for my buck in terms of heat output in my stove I load it with 22 inch hickory, red oak, or locust splits, and I mean pack it.

Run it up to about 550 degrees, then set it at half way air open for a short spell, then shut the air almost completely off.


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## webby3650 (Dec 28, 2011)

I'm sorry, but what do you do now to help the stove?  Thanks guys- Paul[/quote] I'm sorry, not real sure what you mean here. I was saying that if you remove this plate, you can clean the creosote out of the flue collar after you it is swept. You can also easily clean the fly ash off the baffle.


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## webby3650 (Dec 28, 2011)

ansehnlich1 said:
			
		

> I put the oslo in our new home around 5 years ago and have burned a quarter tank of fuel oil in that time so I KNOW it's a good heater. Our home is well insulated, heating about 1800 sq. ft. in south central Pennsylvania.
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> I never get 8 hours of 'flame' time, probably get about what you say, 4 or 5 hours at the most.
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 This is the same process I used, it works very well.


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## victorytea (Dec 28, 2011)

Master, in other words, you sweep your pipe and then remove the plate and clean the creosote? Or do you remove the plate and then sweep your pipe? I can't believe this stove doesn't have an external lever for aand internal damper or baffle. Keep the info coming- you guys are being really helpful!! Thanks, Paul


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## firefighterjake (Dec 28, 2011)

Not much to add here . . .

As mentioned . . . many folks (myself included) read the literature and pictured "burn time" to be the time where the fire was just flaming away . . . but many of us now realize that this definition is pretty subjective . . . most of us I would guess would define burn time as the time from when you are getting meaningful heat from the stove . . . or the time from when the stove reaches X degrees to when it falls below X degrees . . . or the time from first flame to when there are still coals enough to easily light the fire by just tossing some small splits on it . . . or . . . as you can see . . . there is no one definition . . . but the one truth is you will not get 8-10 hours with roaring flames in the firebox.

Cleaning . . . I am spoiled since I can clean my chimney outside . . . from the ground. However, on my annual cleaning (and from what I've read) most folks with a straight shot to the roof either sweep everything down so it drops down . . . and then they remove the oval plate and vacuum out the creosote and gunk . . . or they remove a section of pipe and clean from the bottom up with a taped bag to lessen the mess.

Overnight burns . . . as mentioned you're not going to get the roaring fire the whole time . . . but if you load it with the good stuff it's very possible to load it up at 9:30 a.m. and have enough coals 7 or 8 hours later to easily reload the fire and get it going again.


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## webby3650 (Dec 28, 2011)

victorytea said:
			
		

> Master, in other words, you sweep your pipe and then remove the plate and clean the creosote? Or do you remove the plate and then sweep your pipe? I can't believe this stove doesn't have an external lever for aand internal damper or baffle. Keep the info coming- you guys are being really helpful!! Thanks, Paul


You would want to sweep it before taking anything loose. According to our Jotul rep. "they do not reccommend leaving the bolts loose, they should be re-installed after cleaning." If you have a slip section in your pipe, it would be easier to pull the pipe up. It is not real common for stoves to have a bypass damper, other than cat stoves, not many have a bypass. Do you clean out the ashes very often? I can tell a big difference in burn times after I clean out the stove.


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## Green Energy (Dec 29, 2011)

As many said, I had to adjust my expectations as well to flames for 4-5 hours.

But you can have 200 - 300 F stove with coals on the bottom for 8 hours, and possibly 10 hours.

Tips:
good hard wood (oak, hickory, locust) burns longer than lighter wood (maple, etc)
large splits or medium rounds - it is good to have one or two of these in the back/bottom of the load
use 22" rather than shorter in order to fill out the firebox
once the stove is cruising, above 450 F, shut the air down so that all the air is secondary air

When refilling a stove before turning in, if the stove hasn't cycled back, but there is still a good fire going.  Be careful to not put splits in that are too small, or else you might find the stove going over 650.  I like to put in my big splits at that time as they will not burn as fast as the small splits.

I have to admit that I was disappointed that I don't usually have thick bed of coals after 8 hour which my old cat stove could do without any effort (it had a 33% larger firebox + the Cat).  But getting into my 3rd season, I have gotten used to it.  This stove is great as it is easy to start and get it cruising quickly, gives great light shows, and looks great.  Different than my old stove as it is not going to give the 10 -12 health bed of coals that my old CAT stove could do.


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## mikepinto65 (Dec 29, 2011)

Green Energy said:
			
		

> use 22" rather than shorter in order to fill out the firebox



That might be best for you, however I would highly recommend staying in the 18"-20" length range. At 22" you seriously run the risk of logs not fitting properly when you have a nice coal bed. Also, not sure what others are doing, but I like my splits at 3.5"-4.5" thick. They load and burn the burn the best for me, and they tend to season the best in 12 months.


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## firefighterjake (Dec 29, 2011)

Like Mike I prefer my splits and rounds to be 18-20 inches . . . it never fails . . . some coals build up or when I'm loading the wood there is a Y or small nub and things don't fit in nice and neat . . . having just a few inches shorter gives you that fudge factor and doesn't lose that much fuel load.


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## Valhalla (Dec 29, 2011)

I clean the flue on my Oslo from within the stove. Using a flexible rod set after first removing the tubes, baffle and blanket from below. It takes about 1.5 hours. Never disturbing the griddle or stove pipe. Works great!


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## webby3650 (Dec 30, 2011)

Valhalla said:
			
		

> I clean the flue on my Oslo from within the stove. Using a flexible rod set after first removing the tubes, baffle and blanket from below. It takes about 1.5 hours. Never disturbing the griddle or stove pipe. Works great!


Wow, that ain't easy! Why do you do this? Can you not access it from the roof?


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## Valhalla (Dec 30, 2011)

webby3650 said:
			
		

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Four bolts, then the tubes and all are easy to remove. Then I use a drill driven multi piece flex rod and brush set. Vac it all out, reassemble and it is all done.  Quite easy!

The chimney is 30+ feet and covered with ice mid winter. So I do it all from below.


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## webby3650 (Dec 30, 2011)

Valhalla said:
			
		

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Ah, just noticed your location. No need for mid winter cleanings here, I'm glad this works well for you.


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## Valhalla (Dec 30, 2011)

Four bolts, then the tubes and all are easy to remove. Then I use a drill driven multi piece flex rod and brush set. Vac it all out, reassemble and it is all done.  Quite easy!The chimney is 30+ feet and covered with ice mid winter. So I do it all from below.[/quote]Ah, just noticed your location. No need for mid winter cleanings here, I'm glad this works well for you.[/quote]

Yes, a mid winter cleaning is always a must. Safety first in many ways!


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## Green Energy (Dec 30, 2011)

mikepinto65 said:
			
		

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Mike and Jake,

Yes, you're right about the 18"-20" v 22".  Ash and coals build up can make it difficult to get the full length splits in.  My point is that is it important to pack the firebox.

On the burn time issue, last night while I was thinking about this thread, I refilled the stove about an hour before I turned in, and then topped it off so that it was pretty packed right before I went to bed, all red oak.  Seven hours latter, when I got up, I had a healthy bed of coals with some chunks of coaled splits still left, with the stove top temp 250 F.  On the morning load, I had it flaming so well that I could turn the air down to 1/2 after 10 minutes, and temp was up to 450 F within 20 minutes.

I certainly could of had plenty of coals after 8 hrs if I had left it go another hour.  One caveat is that loading the stove when its real hot like I did to pack the stove mid cycle, one has to be careful not to hit the secondary air tubes cuz they dent/bend/tweek very easy when they are real hot.  On my old stove, the cat sat in a cast iron chamber.  I can't believe I used to use splits to hammer in splits so I could get the door closed.  That's another reason for the longer burns, I had a different definition on "packed" with my old stove.  I never force splits into the Oslo that do not easily fit. 

With the Olso and non-cat stove, you have to get used to the cycles more than the even output that you get from a cat stove.  However, the cast iron weight of the Oslo provides some thermal inertia that keeps the cycle from being more dramatic.

Sean


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## bjkjoseph (Dec 30, 2011)

stoves with the ash drawer seem to burn faster..some peole on here let that drawer fill up and use a shovel instead.


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## Mr. Brownstone (Dec 30, 2011)

I would rephrase the term burning time to heating time.  Check the temp in the room that the stove is in, if it is high enough to keep the thermostat from kicking on, you win.  I'm rarely able to keep the upstairs zone, set at 62 from kicking in overnight, but that was never the expectation.


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## argus66 (Dec 30, 2011)

i get 8 hr burn times out of my little f3cb no problem, i pack it full before i go to bed get it up to about 400 to 500 then damper all the way down. i burn all blk locust, oak, and swamp maple.  2 yr seasoned wood, its not good to damper all the way down but i clean my own pipe 2 times a yr and burn great wood.  go to bed 10  or 11 wake up 6 or 7ish to a little bed of hot coals and re-fire.  house is easy 65 to 72 when i get up.


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## Hanko (Dec 30, 2011)

I put things in and burn things up. dont over think it.


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## firefighterjake (Dec 30, 2011)

Green Energy said:
			
		

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True . . . both on the point being that you do want to use the firebox space and not put in all 14 inchers if you're looking for a long burn.

Also true about the cast iron allowing you to have less of a thermal swing in temps once you're up and running . . . I noticed that in the first year when folks were talking about the dip in temps as you went through the cycles . . . I rarely see much of a difference in temps (once the stove is going) . . . most likely due to the thermal mass.


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## firefighterjake (Dec 30, 2011)

bjkjoseph said:
			
		

> stoves with the ash drawer seem to burn faster..some peole on here let that drawer fill up and use a shovel instead.



Maybe if the gasket on the ash pan drawer needs replacing . . . or if folks are completely cleaning out the ashes every day . . . but otherwise I would argue that the ash pan drawer doesn't play as much of a factor as maintaining approximately 1-2 inches of ash in the firebox . . . too much or too little ash can affect things . . . but I have an ash pan and unload it twice a week and get decent burn times -- meaning I can load up at 9:30 a.m. and typically have enough coals for an easy restart at 4:30-5 a.m. the next morning.


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## logger (Dec 30, 2011)

Hanko said:
			
		

> I put things in and burn things up. dont over think it.


Really?


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## Shari (Dec 31, 2011)

Green Energy said:
			
		

> *When refilling a stove before turning in, if the stove hasn't cycled back*, but there is still a good fire going.  Be careful to not put splits in that are too small, or else you might find the stove going over 650.  I like to put in my big splits at that time as they will not burn as fast as the small splits.



I never do that - as in I* never* interrupt a burn cycle by adding more wood when secondaries are still going.  I seem to remember (was it BB or FJ?) who did this and it caused an overfire.  Do you have any idea what temps get up to when you do this?


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## Green Energy (Dec 31, 2011)

Shari said:
			
		

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Yes, adding fuel to a mid cycle fire certainly has risks.  Last year, I found that when I did this with 3 or 4" splits that the stove when to 650 F.  A couple of times I had shoved an aluminum foil ball into the secondary air intake to keep the stove from getting hotter.

A couple of nights ago, I think it was only an hour into the cycle and the stove cruising at 450 F.  I wanted to turn in and thought I could top off the stove if I used a big enough split.  There was room for me to add a 6 " split and a second split, probably around 4", so that it filled out the load in the stove.  The temperatures did not rise beyond 500 F or so.  I guess I should not advice other folks to do this as it is risky if the fire is peaking and additional fuel is added. However, I did find that if by being careful, there is a way to top off the stove by putting in large enough splits so that they don't provide the fire too much access to the fuel all at once.  Also, I had the fire on the low side, around 450, rather than pushing 600.


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## Shari (Dec 31, 2011)

Green Energy said:
			
		

> * I wanted to turn in* and thought I could top off the stove if I used a big enough split.  There was room for me to add a 6 " split and a second split, probably around 4", so that it filled out the load in the stove.  The temperatures did not rise beyond 500 F or so.  *I guess I should not advice other folks to do this as it is risky* if the fire is peaking and additional fuel is added. However, I did find that if by being careful, there is a way to top off the stove by putting in large enough splits so that they don't provide the fire too much access to the fuel all at once.  Also, I had the fire on the low side, around 450, rather than pushing 600.



My question remains:  Since you 'turned in', how do you know how hot the stove got?

You second statement:  "I guess I should not advice other folks to do this as it is risky.." seems to be right on.


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## adrpga498 (Dec 31, 2011)

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Not meaning to interupt this thread but I have a solution to your question others may try. I put a small peice of tinfoil on the right side of the stove top thermometer needle. As the temp climbs the tinfoil will be pushed towards the hottest side untill the temp falls and the themometer needle retracts, leaving the tinfoil in the grove where  the highest temp was reached whilst you were away from the stove. Works everytime,I can"t take credit for it due to the fact I read about this on the forums.  Just fold a peice of foil about 1/2 long and put a bend in the middle that will let it slip into the grove of the thermometer. Kinda like  a "V" shape just bend the "wings" down. Good luck. TY


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## Green Energy (Dec 31, 2011)

After a couple minutes from adding the large split, I had to open the primary air to 1/2 as the big split had the effect of interrupting the heat of the secondaries.  I wanted to make sure I got the stove back to cruising.  I knew it would not take long to get it back to good secondaries.  After 3-5 minutes, things seemed to be cooking and I shut down the air, watched it for another five minutes, and the secondaries were stable and not going crazy (e.g., no bowels of hell).  Went up to get myself changed and ready for the night.  Came down after another 5-10 minutes to check to make sure that everything was good, and yep, stove was cruising, good secondaries, no bowels of hell, and stove top was at 500 F.

This reminds me that I need to make a little aluminium indicator to put over the mag thermometer to stay where the thermometer max's out at.  But I am confident that I was good that night.

Shari, I have experienced exactly what BB and Jake spoke of, when I topped off my stove when it was 550 or 600, and I fit in some splits on top of it.  (That is the way I used to burn my old stove, threw in wood whenever I wanted and never thought anything of it.)  Sometimes I don't have my cycle timed perfectly, or I stay up longer than I was planning, and I figured that I would try a little intuition to see how I could have more coals in the morning and sleep in latter.

I think the reasons this worked out OK was:

1.  Before, adding the split, I kept my fire on the lower end of the cruising scale, about 450.  The top part was coaling but the whole fire box was not coaling.  (This cycle was bordering on a restart as the amount of coals had dwindled). 
2.  I had used kindling on top that was pretty much consumed and left space for the large split that I added.
3.  The large split has enough mass to interrupt the secondaries enough so that it wasn't just engulfed, but the outside caught on more orderly. 

Your right, the orthodox, recommended method is to burn in cycles, and not to add fuel mid-cycle.  But I thought I would experiment to see if I could do this so that I have a full load when I turn in.  It worked out well for me and I will probably do this some more this winter.

I guess I'm in danger of being labeled a heretic?


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## Shari (Dec 31, 2011)

Green Energy said:
			
		

> I guess I'm in danger of being labeled a heretic?



Heretic?  Depends what your definition of heretic is.  All I'm saying is you are interrupting the 'normal' cycle your stove's specified burn cycle.  The specs are manufacturer tested and approved.  Why would you go against manufacturer specs and then 'turn in'?

In our house, we go by the specs, burn in cycles and don't 'turn in' until temps are either stabilized for 30 minutes (or more) or stove top temps are dropping.


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## Green Energy (Dec 31, 2011)

Shari,

Obviously, operating the stove in cycles is the safest way to operate, no argument here.  For me, there are times that I want to get the longest burn time I can.  My experiment with putting a large split in at the time that I did worked fine a couple days ago.  There is some risk involved that I knowingly accepted and took the precautions that I thought were prudent to make sure that those risks did not materialize.  And I knew what to do in case they did materialize.  Because of the limited fire box size, I will probably try this again under the right conditions.  

For anyone reading this, I would strongly advice against adding fuel to a non-cat stove when it is going petal to the metal, e.g., for an Oslo, that would be a stove top temp of above 550 or so (the full load is approaching fully engulfed).

As far as manufacturer specs go, I'm not cutting corners on clearances or burning something other than wood, rather I view it more as improvising to get a longer burn time.  There is some art involved in wood burning.

Sean


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## firefighterjake (Jan 3, 2012)

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Not an overfire . . . but it was going that way fast . . . definitely one of my "Ah ha" moments . . . well maybe it was more like an "Oh s%$#!" moment.


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## logger (Jan 4, 2012)

While I usually try not to interfere with a cycle, I've many times put splits on a load that wasn't burned completely through.  There are many people on this forum who burn to a science, which is fine, but a little common sense goes a long way too.  If it's colder than usual out and the house is chilly, throw a few more splits on sooner than you usually would.  Just know your stove and what it can handle.  I have never had a problem throwing an extra log or two on during a cycle in colder weather.  The house should be comfortable for you, thats why the stoves there.  Obviously dont throw wood on a 600 degree fire and go to bed though.


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## gpcollen1 (Jan 4, 2012)

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Ummm, plenty of non-cat stoves have a bypass.  I am actually curious as to why most don't have one.  It is a great way to get a fresh load of wood going quickly.  It only takes a minute or two.  AND you can sweep your chimney right into the stove!!

As for the burn time, I get 7-8 hours with some coals left int he morning in my Castine.  You should be able to get that or more in that stove.  Sure I need some small splits to help the fire int he morning but I have them.  The 2 main factors are wood type and size of splits - as well as stuffing that firebox tightly like doing a puzzle.


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## gpcollen1 (Jan 4, 2012)

Green Energy said:
			
		

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Are you folks really that worried about the stove hitting 600-650?  My Castine heads over 650-700 regularly when cranking away and it is just fine.  The 500 manual says that 400-600 is the most efficient range.  I am pretty confident that this stove can handle 800-850 without a worry in the world much like my Olympic..


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## gpcollen1 (Jan 4, 2012)

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This is not a chemical reaction that we need to follow a specific procedure here is it?  I mean, it is burning wood.  If for some reason I stayed up later than planned, i would not hesitate to open that stove, add wood and get it to where I needed it before shutting it down.  I am not just going to leave it for an hour and then just go to bed all because it was in the middle of a burn cycle.  well, maybe in the spring or fall but not in the dead of winter when i need heat...


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## Stump_Branch (Jan 4, 2012)

I think sharis point (correct if wrong) was that at either end of the cycle, theres either not enough heat or risk of an overfire. Im sure all can make the connection its safer to let the stove finish and put on a sweater if you must.

However,  im guily too. No i dont throw something on at 500 or whatever, but near the end when i have a large coal bed, ill add some wood. Sometimes its to try and burn the bed down a bit. Others i goof, shove too much in and get stuck with mediocre output for a few hours, and end up with an even larger coal bed.

Best to plan the loads out, not a science (debatable) but youll still need a brain to do safetly.

OP, i rear vented my oslo, to a 'T' then straightish up. Remove  bottom cap sweep into bag. Cleaning above baffle means i take off the T.


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## Green Energy (Jan 5, 2012)

There is danger involved with adding fuel when the stove is peaking.  FF Jake described this last year.  I also wrote about my experience.  In my situation, my stove seemed to be running away, temps rapidly increased from 600 to 700 F.  It was only my second season and I did not want to risk overheating, so I shoved a ball of aluminum foil into the secondary air intake (bottom of the stove, in the back, 3" round hole).  The rise stopped fairly quickly at 700 F, and I was relieved that it did.  It may be that it wasn't going to go much above 700 F if I left it alone, or it may be that going above 700 to 800 is not as critical as I fear.  I just did not want to take the chance.

So with all this in mind,  I do find the size of the firebox, combined with an inability to add wood mid cycle, can be difficult when I want sustained burn time.  So as I posted above, I did add a big split when the stove was about an hour into the cycle.  THe stove top was on the low end at 400 F, and the split was large enough that I did not think I would experience the above situation.  It worked out fine, but would not want a person trying this (after reading my post) without being aware of the risk and understanding what they are doing.  

It is good to time and/or size the cycles so as to not have to add wood during peak temp.  I will not be adding any fuel at peak time if my stove is close to 600 F.  But I may do this when the stove is at 350 - 400 F by choosing larger splits (i.e., 6").  The couple times that I have done this, I actually have to open up the primary air to 1/2 or so for a few minutes to make sure I get good secondaries.  Then I shut down the air and I did get a bump up in temperature, but only to 450 - 500 F or so.  I would not do this with 3" splits.  

Risking being labeled a heretic.


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## firefighterjake (Jan 5, 2012)

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600 or 650 degrees  . . . no worries . . . when it gets higher than 700 I get nervous.


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## firefighterjake (Jan 5, 2012)

Stump_Branch said:
			
		

> I think sharis point (correct if wrong) was that at either end of the cycle, theres either not enough heat or risk of an overfire. Im sure all can make the connection its safer to let the stove finish and put on a sweater if you must.
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Put on a sweater? Heck no . . . I've never let the temps get down that much if I'm up and about . . . heck, I routinely lounge around the house wearing only a T-shirt and boxers most of the winter. I load the stove up well before the temps are starting to reach the point where I think I should put on some clothes.


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## Stump_Branch (Jan 5, 2012)

Aww, jake keep yer pants on...errr off?

I can agree, i  like being sweaterless in my house all the same. It was a poor attempt at metaphoric humor.

I was just trying to say, its better to let the stove get further along in the bell curve of the cycle, stovetop cool down etc., than to damage a nice well made expensive stove. Let alone something worse like a fire elsewhere outside of the stove.

If i couldnt let the stove run through the burn and stay warm, then im pushing it too hard, its not big enough for my needs, or just a junky stove and ill pitch it to the curb. (craigslist count as a 'curb'?) 

I love the oslo, my first venture into what a real stove can do. I guess id just hate to see one go bust because of something simple like a reloading error is all.


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## firefighterjake (Jan 8, 2012)

Stump_Branch said:
			
		

> Aww, jake keep yer pants on...errr off?
> 
> I can agree, i  like being sweaterless in my house all the same. It was a poor attempt at metaphoric humor.
> 
> ...



Gotta agree . . . especially with the sentence in bold type.


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