# Anyone run a 3 pt winch on a 30-60hp tractor?



## SolarAndWood (Dec 18, 2011)

If so, please share pics and experiences.  A friend has a Farmi 601.  It works very well all around on his 85hp 6 ton 4WD tractor.  Put it on the 2WD 3 ton 60hp tractor and it works great as a winch but you better be skidding in a straight line.  My tractor is 2 ton 4WD and I am wondering if there is any chance of effectively skidding with it or if I should just get a winch setup that gets the logs out to the trail.  The woods I am working have some rough roads made by skidders 20 years ago.  All but the main ones that I have been hitting with the back blade are pretty rough and a lot of it is steep.  I'm thinking I will either need a much bigger tractor if I am going to skid the trees back to the shed or go to a process in the woods and pull it back in a cart model.


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## JustWood (Dec 18, 2011)

I have the 601 on a 80 Hp tractor. Works good. We have used it on small jobs where it doesn't make sense to bring our big skidders in. Small lots in residential areas are the norm. Homeowners usually chit if you bring a 10 or 16 ton skidder into a 1-5 acre lot.
They do make smaller Farmis. Buy according to your HP.
I have a loader on mine and often carry counter weight on the forks. Most of the jobs we use it on are short skids and open woods  so having a log on the front isn't an issue where it might be in a normal forest thinning type situation.
If the trees weren't so BIG in these residential situations I'd be inclined to build a rig with a 10K Warn winch to just pull pulp or firewood tops.


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## SolarAndWood (Dec 18, 2011)

That is what I have seen.  The 601 on the MFWD 2940 seems like the minimum if you want to skid.  The problem I have with the smaller winches is that you are spending $3K plus on less of a winch and you still can't skid what you can winch back to the landing.  Almost thinking that a good winch on one of the old stout 4 ft back blades spun around might be the right solution for me.  Gets the trees out to the roadways and then use a cart from there.  

The only reason I would need a bigger tractor is for skidding.  Otherwise, the 2 ton tractor I've got that doesn't owe me anything gets it done just takes longer.


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## JustWood (Dec 18, 2011)

Problem with the back blades is they hang so far out the back of the tractor. Any weight you put on them is gonna bring your front end up fast.
I've thought about welding 3PH mounts on a  3/4" plate about 3'Hx4'W with a heavy gusseted  12" shelf  on tractor side for winch mount and about 6 or 8-3/8" weld on hooks near the top.
Use chain chokers and pull the log/top up tight to the plate. Hook your choker chain to the weld ons and drop the winch cable. Move ahead to where you want to snag the next log/top and repeat.
Having a butt plate like that wood keep the weight close to the tractor and limit wheelies.
I could build something like this for under $500 in materials plus the cost of a 10K winch.


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## Whitepine2 (Dec 18, 2011)

I have a 501 farmi on a 62 HP 4x4 about the same as 601, 601 has more pulling power and built heaver. I love it should have had it years ago so easy for me to fell and haul out anything that get's hung up no biggy now. I do have a loader tractor W/O loader 7500 , 3 3/4 ton Zetor 6245. I have not had trouble hauling out unless hangup on stump or gettin jammed between trees. I cant see why
a 601 would not work just take lighter loads of course loader will make a big difference. Keep checking CL many used for sale got mine really never used for 1/2 price of new one. Load light and haul often you will get it done at 68 I got all the time but can do as much in 2 hrs.as took 6 before. Best of luck in whatever you decide.


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## Flamestead (Dec 19, 2011)

I'm running an older Farmi 350 on a 4WD Kubota 5040. Paid $900 for the winch about 5 years ago, haven't put a dime into it other than replacing the rope for the clutch and brake. Very simple, durable. I'm mostly thinning 12"-15" red maple. I tend to cut the tree in half rather than pulling out full length. Saves on the trees I'm leaving, easier to navigate on the way out. 

Cutting 10-15 cord per year. I am on a hill (pulling downhill) - the 4WD is great in the snow for getting up the slope, and for steering. I've got pretty aggressive chains on the rears (unless the ground is muddy you don't even see a track from the rubber tire, just the chain marks). They work great up to about 2.5' of snow. I like to skid in the winter - keeps my firewood clean, and I don't have to worry about erosion on my trails in the spring. I usually have a window of time from now until mid/late January when there is enough but not too much snow (none yet, getting antsy).

I love the winch. Used to use a trailer (drop the tree, cut to firewood length, haul to the splitting/stacking yard). Now I drop the trees and skid in the winter, then cut and split in the late winter/early spring. The winch allows me to reach out and pull in a tree from here or there. Not high production (pre-commercial thinning), but a lot of control and flexibility. Thinking of adding a snatch block, but OK so far without one.

I need more choker chains so I can hitch a few more logs. I've got 4 sliders and a hook on the end of the cable.  Never had too much weight on the haul - would like to bring more per trip. The Farmi has a bar for hooking chains to, so I would pull in a few stems and hook them, then pull in more and leave them on the cable. Again, this is mostly smaller trees, so I'm not pushing too hard.

This older model winch does not have a blade on the back, and there has been a couple of times when the logs tried coming down the hill faster than the tractor (under the winch). Usually the snow keeps them in check. If I had a problem on the previous load I'll lower the winch as I head down the steeper sections so there is less room for them to come through.

I wish my 3pt hitch lifted higher so I could lift the tractor-end of the logs higher for skidding. I wish my daughters didn't mind functioning as my remote control (I set the choker, they run the winch). I wish I had a longer window of moderate depth snow. But overall I'm very happy.

The 4WD allows me to get out of situations. (edit/snip: misread and thought you had 2WD) I've run different chains over the years - I highly recommend a heavy set of ice chains ($1000 or so). I had older 2WD tractors before this one - it is do-able, but with snow and hill, the 4WD gives me twice the tractor in manuverability.

I lusted after the bigger model winches, and maybe if I were trying to make a living I'd need something heavier, but I'm very happy with the simple, old Farmi 350.

(edited for spelling. Also should add that the rear tires are loaded and I have a FEL on it, so running at about 7,600 lb.)
(edited (again) for spelling)


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## SolarAndWood (Dec 19, 2011)

variabLEE said:
			
		

> Problem with the back blades is they hang so far out the back of the tractor. Any weight you put on them is gonna bring your front end up fast.



Yeah, the 4 footer I used last was far enough back you could spin it around without demounting it.  I have  used one of the little steel weight boxes as a butt plate with the Ford.  Attached the chain to the drawbar then up and over the box.  Worked pretty good but I can see that even moving it in that 18" does nothing but good things for where the weight should be.  I like the 3/4" plate right at the the end of the arms concept.  I have a hydraulic winch that has been in the barn for decades.  Think I'll pull it out the next time I'm at camp and see if the pump in the Ford has enough flow to make it work.


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## SolarAndWood (Dec 19, 2011)

Sounds like you guys are running machines twice the size of mine with the 501 and 350.  Most of the stuff I want to grab is in the 24-30" range.  That is kind of why I am wondering if I am even in the skidding game at 2 ton unless I make a lot of trips.


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## bpirger (Dec 19, 2011)

I have the Wallenstein FX90 on my Zetor 5245 (50 HP, 4WD, FEL, about 7500 pounds or so).  I typically drop two trees, winch them out, and skid them back to the pile.  So far I have only skidded on flat land through a logging road.  Typically I have about 20' lengths behind me...maybe 4-6 of them.  Trees are typically soft maple, about 18" or so.  It works quite well, though there is a lot of back and forth.  Like someone mentioned above, a second person working as the remote control would be nice!  But you have to trust them.  I have a snatch block that I use very frequently.  Winching through the woods often (usually I think) leads to hangups on either small trees, stumps, etc. 

Skidding in light snow would be the best....I have noticed a clear increase in chain sharpening from skidding on the dirt.  Not horrible, but existent.  Sure beats blocking and carrying chunks through the bush!

Three sliders on my line and a hook on the end.  I will typically attach the first could of winched in logs to the "chain bar" and the final winches will leave on the line.


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## JustWood (Dec 19, 2011)

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200315617_200315617?cm_mmc=Aggregates-_-Google-_-Farm + Acreage>3-Point + PTO Hardware-_-2501919

If you want to get an idea of what you can pull at drawbar and have an idea of how the front may or may not pull up get one of these. I use one of these where I can back right up to the wood.
A drawbar hook with the right spacing and pin size will hook right onto one of these for a quick hitch setup.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...=mode+matchallpartial&Dx=mode+matchallpartial


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## SolarAndWood (Dec 19, 2011)

Cool thanks.  I've got a single point subsoiler frame that would probably work pretty good if I put that hook on it.  I almost wonder if I mounted the hiller blade on it backwards if it would be enough to offset the pull of the winch.  Then, I could probably get away with lighter steel over the frame to use as a butt plate.  Might get out of this pretty cheap if that hydraulic winch works out.


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## Dill (Dec 19, 2011)

Great timing on the thread. I'm running a MF 271, a 65hp tractor. And I've been up in the air if I should buy the 50-100 hp class winch or the smaller. I will be winching up hill.  The tractor is 4wd with a loader and loaded tires.


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## SolarAndWood (Dec 19, 2011)

The 601 is a pretty amazing machine.  The way it pops decent size trees through the snags is great to watch.  They will stand right up, shuffle across whatever it is and drop down on the other side with the winch never skipping a beat.  With my 3 ton electric winch, I am walking down the hill with the 6' steel bar to get it loose.


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## Whitepine2 (Dec 20, 2011)

Dill said:
			
		

> Great timing on the thread. I'm running a MF 271, a 65hp tractor. And I've been up in the air if I should buy the 50-100 hp class winch or the smaller. I will be winching up hill.  The tractor is 4wd with a loader and loaded tires.



  Go for the bigger one with it you can pull the bigger trees if not cut to lenth that you can pull. With 65 HP you will be suprised what you can pull and with bigger unit you can't destroy it,wood hauling is tuff bigger is better in this case like anything you gotta use your head and do what the tractor and equipment will handle


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## tawilson1152 (Dec 20, 2011)

I've been using a 501 on my 45hp tractor for 10 years. The tractor is at the low end of the recommended range for the winch and I have had no regrets. 
I didn't see this site mentioned here, if it's old news I apologize, there's manuals and information available:
http://farmiwinch.com/Tree-Harvesting/


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## SolarAndWood (Dec 20, 2011)

What tractor and how is it set up?  I figure a 4WD 45hp is about what I am going to be able to tow behind my truck.  I don't want to go bigger than I can tow but don't want to buy a machine for skidding and find out it isn't really big enough to skid anyway.  In that case, I will just get a winch set up on my little tractor and process the big logs after I get them to the roadway instead of back at the shed.


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## tawilson1152 (Dec 20, 2011)

It's a New Holland 2120. Just happen to have a pic. 
And another pic of the pin on hitch setup I made for it.
And another pic of how I pick up logs/trees and move them around without having to get off the tractor.


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## SolarAndWood (Dec 20, 2011)

Thanks for the pics.  Nice looking machine.  I have a 1910, one size down, one series earlier and treated like crap compared to yours.

How does it deal with bigger diameter stuff when you aren't on level ground?


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## MasterMech (Dec 20, 2011)

We have two 1920's on the golf course where I worked this summer.  They have been good machines albeit they lack hydraulic horsepower but no more so than any other 30 hp compact tractor of their era.  I've used both of them to drag some serious wood around with chains and we've even teamed them up to drag trees out of the river! (Those are fun days lemme tell you...)


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## tawilson1152 (Dec 20, 2011)

That pic is 8 or 9 years old and she ain't so pretty now after logging.


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## SolarAndWood (Dec 20, 2011)

lol, what's the point of having equipment and not using it?  Sounds like I should keep my eye out for a deal on a 501.  Worse thing that happens is I find out the 1910 is undersized and am no worse off than I am now.  There are a whole bunch of reasons to go that route and it sounds like it might work for me.  Very little risk in going that route too.


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## leaddog (Dec 21, 2011)

I have a501 on my century 4045. 40pto hp, 4x4, 3500# plus loaded tires, rear chains. I have  a loader on it and I fill the loader up and have pulled out some really big stuff out of the woods. 35in maple 16ft that would stand the front on end if I didn't wt the bucket down. I can pull 4 16in trees at a time if I trim the small stuff off so they don't hang up. These things make it alot easier to get those trees out of the wet areas and as long as you drag in the snow they stay clean. This year i'll be draging tops as I had my woods logged. I trim the small 2in and under limbs and pull them out. Makes it easy to buck up. 
leaddog


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