# Outdoor Use



## mass_burner (Jan 27, 2018)

I'm planning to use a '75 jotul model 4 outside. I've built a rolling cart already. What is the best treatment to keep rust away for as long as possible?

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## begreen (Jan 28, 2018)

You could try oiling it heavily, then running it at about 350F  to polymerized a coat of oil on it, but I still think it'll rust almost immediately as soon as moisture hits it.


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## mass_burner (Jan 28, 2018)

begreen said:


> You could try oiling it heavily, then running it at about 350F  to polymerized a coat of oil on it, but I still think it'll rust almost immediately as soon as moisture hits it.


There's a product, por 15, made for auto use, I've used it on an a gas grill that stays out all the time, but I'm not sure about adding high heat to the mix. 

On the other hand, it might be an interesting observational endeavor to watch it rust over time.

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## mass_burner (Jan 28, 2018)

mass_burner said:


> There's a product, por 15, made for auto use, I've used it on an a gas grill that stays out all the time, but I'm not sure about adding high heat to the mix.
> 
> On the other hand, it might be an interesting observational endeavor to watch it rust over time.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


Also, can anyone return a close up pic of the wood handle for a jotul 4? I can't seem to find a good pic on the interwebs.

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## begreen (Jan 28, 2018)




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## mass_burner (Jan 28, 2018)

begreen said:


> View attachment 221894
> View attachment 221895


It appears to be made of plastic, is that possible?

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## bholler (Jan 28, 2018)

mass_burner said:


> It appears to be made of plastic, is that possible?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


Yes there are plenty of high temp plasics available


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## mass_burner (Jan 29, 2018)

bholler said:


> Yes there are plenty of high temp plasics available


OK, think my chances if finding one is small,.huh? 

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## mass_burner (Jan 29, 2018)

Also, there's a small L bracket on the back, center, about 3/4 up. Anyone know what that's for?

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## mass_burner (Feb 6, 2018)

begreen said:


> You could try oiling it heavily, then running it at about 350F  to polymerized a coat of oil on it, but I still think it'll rust almost immediately as soon as moisture hits it.


So under this procedure I shouldn't paint it, just bring it bare iiron?

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## mass_burner (Feb 6, 2018)

mass_burner said:


> So under this procedure I shouldn't paint it, just bring it bare iiron?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


I ccan also build a cover for it, it would rest on top of the rolling stand, could even design it so it doubles as a deck table when not in use.

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## begreen (Feb 6, 2018)

mass_burner said:


> So under this procedure I shouldn't paint it, just bring it bare iiron?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


The method I described with the oil is how cast iron frying pans are seasoned. I think either painting or this procedure will rust. Heating steel and iron will accelerate oxidation. But it's easier to repeatedly re-oil than repaint.


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## mass_burner (Feb 7, 2018)

begreen said:


> The method I described with the oil is how cast iron frying pans are seasoned. I think either painting or this procedure will rust. Heating steel and iron will accelerate oxidation. But it's easier to repeatedly re-oil than repaint.


Good point on re-oiling. The underside door hiding mechanism is most vulnerable. 

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## coaly (Feb 7, 2018)

Stove Bright exterior primer. That's what it is for. Stoves used inside do not require primer under high temp paint, the primer is formulated for exterior use.

Stove black allows water and moisture right through.
Polymerized oil is similar to linseed oil which is a hard coating, but not as good as exterior primer with high temp paint cured with heat. This is due to different temperatures of surfaces not cross linking as well as others. It's difficult getting a consistent coating without baking in an oven at the correct temperature. For instance the top burns off where the water collects. The oil thins and moves toward the bottom, so the bottom 1/3 gets a thicker better coating burned on at the correct temperature leaving the top half with much less of a coating. It is the material that forms on the inside of an oven from cooking oil cross linking and becoming a different material. It works great where just the right amount and temperature allows it to form.
It's just not a consistent coating.

Aluminum silver oxide boiler paint after heat cure works extremely well. (Ace Hardware) I worked on steam locomotives and the smoke box up front where coal fly ash lands and rusts the exterior parts more than the boiler jacket was painted with that stuff. We used industrial stuff, but the ingredients are the same as the Ace product. Once cooked on it doesn't change. I'd imagine you could paint black over it, never tried, we left the smoke box on the nose silver. I then went on to maintain traction engines and other outdoor boilers from road rollers to stationary boilers. When color was desired prime and paint. When color is not critical such as stationary outside, silver oxide.
Por-15 makes a high temp paint line too. It doesn't convert rust to a gray hard substance like their other products designed to do that, but it is more like an epoxy. Lasts a long time on headers and manifolds. (the factory gray marine manifold paint)


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## mass_burner (Feb 7, 2018)

coaly said:


> Stove Bright exterior primer. That's what it is for. Stoves used inside do not require primer under high temp paint, the primer is formulated for exterior use.
> 
> Stove black allows water and moisture right through.
> Polymerized oil is similar to linseed oil which is a hard coating, but not as good as exterior primer with high temp paint cured with heat. This is due to different temperatures of surfaces not cross linking as well as others. It's difficult getting a consistent coating without baking in an oven at the correct temperature. For instance the top burns off where the water collects. The oil thins and moves toward the bottom, so the bottom 1/3 gets a thicker better coating burned on at the correct temperature leaving the top half with much less of a coating. It is the material that forms on the inside of an oven from cooking oil cross linking and becoming a different material. It works great where just the right amount and temperature allows it to form.
> ...


Thanks for the info. Which of the options would you recommend?

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## coaly (Feb 7, 2018)

Stove Bright #6306 primer then paint and fire to cure.


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## mass_burner (Feb 7, 2018)

coaly said:


> Stove Bright #6306 primer then paint and fire to cure.


How many cans for a jotul 4?

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## coaly (Feb 7, 2018)

Average 6 square feet per 12 oz. aerosol can.


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## mass_burner (Feb 8, 2018)

Some pics

Notice the mystery hook.


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## mass_burner (Feb 14, 2018)

Decided to keep it simple on the cover, just built a frame with 2x3's , when winter comes, I can easily  fasten some pre cut sections of metal roofing, or other light weight material to close it up. 

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## mass_burner (Mar 11, 2018)

Primed


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## begreen (Mar 11, 2018)

First time I've seen a stove primed. Most stove paints are self-priming. What paint was used?


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## bholler (Mar 11, 2018)

The hook is for a rear heat sheild


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## begreen (Mar 11, 2018)

bholler said:


> The hook is for a rear heat sheild


Ha! I thought it was for hanging the spark arrestor screen on when not in use. Didn't know they made a rear heat shield for these stoves. I learn something here every day.


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## mass_burner (Mar 11, 2018)

begreen said:


> Ha! I thought it was for hanging the spark arrestor screen on when not in use. Didn't know they made a rear heat shield for these stoves. I learn something here every day.


Stove bright primer was used. Since using outside wanted max protection. 

Rear heat shield ? What did it look like? 

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## begreen (Mar 11, 2018)

mass_burner said:


> Rear heat shield ? What did it look like?


I have no idea, I've never seen one for this stove and haven't found any mention of it in the manual.


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## bholler (Mar 11, 2018)

begreen said:


> Ha! I thought it was for hanging the spark arrestor screen on when not in use. Didn't know they made a rear heat shield for these stoves. I learn something here every day.


Yeah if you look you can see a bracket at the bottom also.


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## bholler (Mar 11, 2018)

Never mind i thought about it more and i was thinking of the moroso that looked similar.  It had a heat sheild not the jotul.


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## mass_burner (Mar 11, 2018)

Ah, so the mystery continues...

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## mass_burner (Mar 11, 2018)

I tried hanging the spark arrestor on the hook, but the only way it worked would have the screen handle resting against the stove surface, which would certainly melt it. 

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## mass_burner (Mar 11, 2018)

Speaking of the spark screen, it has a little surface rust, I can clean that up, but should I paint it, season it like a pan?

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## My_3_Girls (Apr 9, 2018)

I'm a little late to the party, but I like how you think!


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## My_3_Girls (Apr 9, 2018)

I've also notched the fire brick inside to be able to accept 2 pieces of angle iron to hold up a grill and pizza stone - I've tried the pizza stone in there over hot coals, and works ok - I need more practice.  Fire was too hot, burned the crust before the top was cooked.  Next experiment is to add another pizza stone on top of the first one to cut down the heat from the fire, and cook over coals instead of live fire.  More pics when I get it dialed in.


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## mass_burner (Apr 11, 2018)

My_3_Girls said:


> I've also notched the fire brick inside to be able to accept 2 pieces of angle iron to hold up a grill and pizza stone - I've tried the pizza stone in there over hot coals, and works ok - I need more practice.  Fire was too hot, burned the crust before the top was cooked.  Next experiment is to add another pizza stone on top of the first one to cut down the heat from the fire, and cook over coals instead of live fire.  More pics when I get it dialed in.



you got there before me. congrats. i'm still waoiting for a day over 60 to put the final coat of paint on.

did you try offset grilling, moving all the coals to one side and pizza on the other. didn't think of cooking in the stove, but now i am.


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## My_3_Girls (Apr 16, 2018)

I got lucky and found it in the enameled variety, so no paint needed.  I hear you on waiting for a 60 degree day!  I was concerned about the amount of smoke in the chamber, but rigged up that short piece of pipe, and it helped quite a bit. I'll probably add another 12" to 18" piece of pipe, shanty cap, paint black, and make it more permanent .  Also working on possibly a water tank (non pressure) to heat the pool in the background - nothing crazy, but always looking for a project.


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## My_3_Girls (Apr 16, 2018)

Works pretty well on top too!


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## mass_burner (May 21, 2018)

Finished pics


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## My_3_Girls (May 21, 2018)

Wow, nice!  What do you plan to do for the chimney?  I still haven't gotten off my *** and hooked it up yet.  Pizza season is upon us!


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## mass_burner (May 25, 2018)

now comes the hard part (that's what she said)...anyway, moving it from the garage to the backyard. it's target spot is at the end of 75' of grass inclined ~ 8-10 feet.


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## sportbikerider78 (May 25, 2018)

My_3_Girls said:


> I'm a little late to the party, but I like how you think!
> View attachment 225591


That cracks me up!

I could totally see doing that if I lived in a development and couldn't have big open fires.


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## My_3_Girls (May 29, 2018)

I put a piece of timber underneath it, on a two wheeler/hand truck/dolly and just wheeled it right into place.  Update on the pizza aspect of it....I've blown thru 2 pizza stones now.  Burning it too hot.  I've made a tray out of old bed frame and will be putting fire bricks in that.  Lined the bottom of the pan with sheet steel, and now even if the bricks break, they won't drop the pizza into the fire!  Constant R&D.


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## begreen (May 29, 2018)

My_3_Girls said:


> Update on the pizza aspect of it....I've blown thru 2 pizza stones now.  Burning it too hot.  I've made a tray out of old bed frame and will be putting fire bricks in that.  Lined the bottom of the pan with sheet steel, and now even if the bricks break, they won't drop the pizza into the fire!  Constant R&D.


I had the same issues when attempting to cook pizza in the stove. The best solution for our stove so far has been to let the fire really die down to small coals and ash, then rake most of the coals to the sides. I use brick on edge to raise the pizza stone above the remaining coals. Still the pizza cooks very quickly. I rotate it once after a minute and it's done about 30-60 seconds afterward. Our convection oven pizza is sooo much more predictable.


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## mass_burner (Jun 10, 2018)

The back opening is 7". I thought I could use my current outdoor chimney, but no.

I converted my existing outdoor heater to a branch burner.


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## My_3_Girls (Jun 12, 2018)

There should be a reducer for that 7" to 6", or 7" to 8".  I just tucked a 6" elbow inside the exhaust opening with the damper open and ran a couple of screws through the collar to hold to pipe in place.  Added a standard section of 6" and a shanty cap to it, and flat blacked everything.


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## mass_burner (Jun 12, 2018)

My_3_Girls said:


> There should be a reducer for that 7" to 6", or 7" to 8".  I just tucked a 6" elbow inside the exhaust opening with the damper open and ran a couple of screws through the collar to hold to pipe in place.  Added a standard section of 6" and a shanty cap to it, and flat blacked everything.



The only 7 to 6 I could find is a galvanized type. Will this be ok for wood burning? The collar on the stove is cast iron, are you supposed to penetrate this? If not, won't it fall off ? I'm using the top opening on my 602 so I never used the back vent.


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## coaly (Jun 12, 2018)

Must be black pipe. Galvanized emits toxic fumes when heated. It is also thinner than black pipe.
Normally inside to prevent condensate from leaking out.
ACE Hardware normally stocks reducers.


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## My_3_Girls (Jun 13, 2018)

mass_burner said:


> The only 7 to 6 I could find is a galvanized type. Will this be ok for wood burning? The collar on the stove is cast iron, are you supposed to penetrate this? If not, won't it fall off ? I'm using the top opening on my 602 so I never used the back vent.



Galv - I used galv pipe and painted it black, as I had it tucked in the garage attic.  I'll probably get blown out of this forum, but it's a glorified chiminea, and after a few firings, I'm guessing the toxicity goes way down.  Don't inhale the first few times.

Penetrate - yes, I drilled 3 holes in the collar on the back thru the cast iron, into the pipe.  One at 9 o'clock, one at 3 o'clock - that secured the pipe, but it leaned back a bit.  I put one at 12 o'clock, holding the elbow up a bit, and that fixed the lean.  Also, stole an aftermarket thermometer from the smoker and drilled a hole in the face (forehead) of the stove so I know what my temps are inside the cooking area. 

It's a full on redneck operation, but it works.  Not for the fancy people. Don't know if you can tell, but I'm a scavenger.


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## begreen (Jun 13, 2018)

Outdoors this is not much of an issue, but you can expect to be replacing the pipe more frequently.


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## My_3_Girls (Jul 2, 2018)

Not bad for the first try.  Definitely a fall sport, chestnuts got a little roasted, if you know what I mean.


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## begreen (Jul 2, 2018)

Yum, that looks like paella for a crowd. You a real trooper for cooking in the strong summer heat.


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## mass_burner (Sep 29, 2018)

Hmm, how are you holding up the chimney, doesn't it want to fall over? Did you fasten the reducer with hardware or cement? Can u include a rear view pic?

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## mass_burner (Oct 1, 2018)

Sorry, I reread the previous posts. Finally moved it over to the deck and had a break in fire last night. I had the chimney on long enough to test the draw, which was fine. I'm just hesitant for some reason to drill into the stove collar. While refinishing the stove, there was some residue of cement/epoxy around the collar, as if it one of those materials were used?

On another note, the handle gets hot while the screen is on. Is there something I can coat it with to help?

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## mass_burner (Oct 8, 2018)

mass_burner said:


> Sorry, I reread the previous posts. Finally moved it over to the deck and had a break in fire last night. I had the chimney on long enough to test the draw, which was fine. I'm just hesitant for some reason to drill into the stove collar. While refinishing the stove, there was some residue of cement/epoxy around the collar, as if it one of those materials were used?
> 
> On another note, the handle gets hot while the screen is on. Is there something I can coat it with to help?
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk



ended up drilling holes.


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## My_3_Girls (Oct 9, 2018)

Sorry, didn't see this until now.  I think I have the same residue on the smoke exit - probably furnace cement from when it was hooked up inside a house.  As far as the handle, I just coat my hand with a glove and let the handle be hot.


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## mass_burner (Nov 11, 2018)

Almost worked all the bugs out. First pot if chili came out well, easy to modify the temperature by moving the pot around the top and adding more fuel.


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