# Test Mode on a Harman



## Gabe (Nov 6, 2011)

On a Harman pellet stove what dose Test setting rely do?
not sure if I under stand what this is for.
HELP  :-S


----------



## Jeffhab (Nov 6, 2011)

I believe it turns on the blower motor, feed motor and combustion fan for something like 45 seconds.


----------



## Gabe (Nov 6, 2011)

Is it to see if these things are working? or to test pellets?
Just wondering.


----------



## lessoil (Nov 6, 2011)

Jeffhab said:
			
		

> I believe it turns on the blower motor, feed motor and combustion fan for something like 45 seconds.


Yup that is about all it does. Book says to use it if starting fire after having an empty hopper.
It also says that this will help purge pellets into the auger tube and allow you to check motors
for proper operation. I would suggest that if you use the Test mode over and over, shut if off
after you see pellets at the burn pot. If you allow the burn pot to get quite a few pellets in it then 
go to normal start up, you will have a huge fire! The normal start up mode would have no idea that
you manually filled the pot so it will fill it again.

Enjoy your stove!
20F this morning but toasty inside and not a peep from the furnace!!


----------



## dingees (Nov 6, 2011)

the test mode is exactly that . it is to bypass the controls to actually see if things are working, so when some one calls the dealer up to say my stove is not working, then they may say to put in test mode, to see what is working.# 1 does the auger turn and are there pellets coming in? is the room fan running ,is the combustion fan running? this will help u to self diagnose things, and narrow down what does not work.


----------



## Gabe (Nov 6, 2011)

OK thanks for the Info!


----------



## lbcynya (Nov 6, 2011)

Test mode will feed pellets if the door is closed.  Also, after the initial feed it will cycle between high and low combusion fan to allow for draft testing as noted in the manual.

Test mode with the door open, no pellet feed.  Most likely used to test the pressure switch.  This works well when you are doing a periodic cleaning. Draft fan runs sucking some of the dust up the chimney instead of in your house.  Just open the door first, then turn on test.  Nice benefit of test mode.


----------



## PJPellet (Nov 6, 2011)

lbcynya said:
			
		

> Test mode will feed pellets if the door is closed.  Also, after the initial feed it will cycle between high and low combusion fan to allow for draft testing as noted in the manual.
> 
> Test mode with the door open, no pellet feed.  Most likely used to test the pressure switch.  This works well when you are doing a periodic cleaning. Draft fan runs sucking some of the dust up the chimney instead of in your house.  Just open the door first, then turn on test.  Nice benefit of test mode.




GREAT POST!  This is exactly what I do, it makes a HUGE difference with dust coming back into the house.


----------



## dw06 (Nov 6, 2011)

PJPellet said:
			
		

> lbcynya said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I learn something everyday on here! :coolsmile: Thanks


----------



## PJPellet (Nov 6, 2011)

dw06 said:
			
		

> PJPellet said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Wait 'til you try it, it's awesome.  I used to stick the vacuum hose in there with the vacuum on and still make a mess, dust would burn my nose, etc.  I stumbled upon it by accident myself and now I ALWAYS have the combustion blower going when I'm cleaning.  Only time I shut it down is to clean the combustion impeller blades, and the exhaust of course.  Then I just go back to using the vacuum hose.  I am a neat freak and I hate dust.


----------



## jaudet71 (Nov 7, 2011)

You can test your draft with the draft meter port and test mode.  After a couple of minutes the blowers will alternate between high and low draft every 60 sec.  Use a magnehelic gauge with a hose to your test port.  The specs are in your manual.  Too much draft and you lose efficiency.  When I had my Harman XXV on my hearth and into the chimney it was off the chart.  Even out the wall with a one foot rise on the inside and straight out outside it was over spec.
I would suspect that a lot of stoves are running over spec.  
I used an internal baffle to cause enough obstruction to bring it into spec.  Overdraft and you lose efficiency ..... under draft and your stove will not run as a safety feature so no danger there.(low draft safety switch)   There is a combustion motor speed control but it just to compensate for voltage variations and barely does anything at all.


----------



## lbcynya (Nov 7, 2011)

dw06 said:
			
		

> PJPellet said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Haha.  No problem.  That's the joy of the "information society" we participate in...






			
				jaudet71 said:
			
		

> ...When I had my Harman XXV on my hearth and into the chimney it was off the chart.  Even out the wall with a one foot rise on the inside and straight out outside it was over spec.
> ...I used an internal baffle to cause enough obstruction to bring it into spec...



Hmmmm, I too have a magnehelic and I think my low draft is like .55 and high draft is .60, which is way over spec.  My flame on low burn seems angry to me.  So you created a baffle in your exhaust?  Any way you can elaborate on this?  I would like to get my stove more "in spec" before i get too deep into the burning season.  Trying to come up with something that will restrict the air without plugging up the exhaust would be the trick.  Please do share.  I want to learn something today


----------



## jaudet71 (Nov 7, 2011)

I used a piece of stove pipe squeezed or bent in to a broad point.  Put the point towards the air flow so it doesn't catch ashes.  I put mine where the arrow points due to the tee. When I check the tee access point, it is clean as a whistle every time.   Leave at least part of it wide to wedge it in place so it stays put.  You may need to experiment some and you can put it anywhere you have access.


----------



## lbcynya (Nov 7, 2011)

jaudet71 said:
			
		

> I used a piece of stove pipe squeezed or bent in to a broad point.  Put the point towards the air flow so it doesn't catch ashes.  I put mine where the arrow points due to the tee. When I check the tee access point, it is clean as a whistle every time.   Leave at least part of it wide to wedge it in place so it stays put.  You may need to experiment some and you can put it anywhere you have access.



Interesting, thanks.  I might do some experimenting.  Best place for me to put a baffle is just before the termination cap.


----------

