# Husqvarna 450 Chain and Oil Lubrication Issues



## KenLockett

I have a Husqvarna 450 chainsaw (18" bar) and am having issues with my chain 'tightening' after running for an extended period of time.  I have had the chainsaw for quite a while and am just now experiencing the problem.  The problems started in the winter when I was running the chain in what I presume was too cold of conditions and the chain came off the bar when I got snow and ice into the bar.  I took the bar and chain off and found that I had to slightly expand the groove in the bar and file some burrs off the chain guides after the episode but when complete the chain was moving freely in the bar guide.  Well I decided to buy a replacement chain (full chisel) from Baileys and now when I run the chainsaw after properly tensioning the chain I experience the issue described above where the chain appears to be tightening and the chain becomes very hot obviously.  This is even when I am not cutting.  Suspecting that the chain was not lubricating properly I did the white paper test per the users manual and do see some splattering on the paper but not as much as I would have expected.  I switched back to the OEM chain and same issue with the chain 'tightening' too much (to a point where the chain will not rotate freely) and same oil spray (less than I suspect there should be).  I notice on the bottom of the cover there is a symbol for a oil pump adjustment but I do not see an adjustment mechanism!  The manual is useless as it references the symbol and the fact that it is an oil pump adjustment mechanism but does not illustrate or describe the adjustment!  My question is has anyone else had this issue and have any advice on the cause and the remedy? Can anyone describe how much oil splatter I should get pointing the tip at a piece of white paper for approximately one minute? Does anyone think lack of lubrication of the chain is the issue here?  Can anyone advise on how to adjust the oil pump flow if indeed there is actually an adjustment mechanism?  By the way, the bar looks true based upon my visual inspection, the guides are not obstructed thus preventing oil distribution along the bar, the nut is cranked down, and the tensioning bolt and plastic guide inside cover appear to not be loosening and operating correctly (mentioned this as I have heard others cite these issues on other threads when there were issues with chain loosening).  Hope I was able to clearly explain my question.  Thanks in advance for any advice.


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## Oldman47

Have a close look at both halves of your oiling system. You need to make sure not only that the oil hole in the bar is open but that the supply slot going to that hole is not obstructed. If they are both open and clean, try adjusting the screw one way or another and see if oiling gets better or worse. At least that way you will know what way to turn things.


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## KenLockett

no obstructions that I can see.  When I run the saw with the cover, chain, and bar off I see a little oil on the supply slot but not much.  I would adjust a screw if I saw one near the symbol.  Problem as I stated in my original post is that I see the adjustment symbol (plus and minus direction) but I do not see an adjustment screw!  If anyone has the 450 and knows where the adjustment screw per se is I would definitely try that.


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## Oldman47

Look at it from below. For my saw, Stihl 026, it is a recessed screw in the bottom of the housing. You have to turn my saw upside down to see more than the hole where the adjusting screw lives.


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## pen

So, if you install a chain and run the saw, how long does it take for the chain to start tightening?

Does the free-play you feel in the chain when you pull down perpendicular to the bar, in the middle, actually change after running for a bit?  Or does the chain not rotate freely anymore but freeplay is still the same?


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## KenLockett

After doing more research it appears that the 450 does not have an adjustable oiler although the symbol is on the casing.  Basically, I tension the chain as described in the manual.  At this point, the slack in the chain is just out and the chain moves freely on the guide.  I then ran the saw for about a minute or so to do the oiler test.  Very little oil being dispersed.  Confirmed via you tube videos of others that indeed I am not spitting enough oil.  After the minute or so the chain and bar are extremely hot and the chain will not  move freely on the bar.  I suspect there is a clog either on the bar or at the oiler slot.  Both look clear but perhaps clogged internally where I cannot see.  Others say to blow compressed air to clear clog.  Should I empty reservoir and blow from tank out or just blow from oiler slot back into the saw?  Could the bar be bad and the oiler hole in bar be constricted?  Any advice on how to test this?


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## pen

Start with the bar.  Take bar off and clean well, taking compressed air to it.  Can't hurt a thing there.

There is an oil hole on both sides of the bar.  Often, if one side of the bar is used, the oil hole on the other side can get plugged.  If you switched the bar (turned it over) and didn't clean that oil hole, that could be it.

Next, I wouldn't put compressed air to the oil outlet directly.  First, run the saw with the bar and cover off for a a bit to ensure that oil is being pumped out of the unit, as it should be visible.

Try this and post to let folks know where things stand.


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## KenLockett

pen said:


> Start with the bar.  Take bar off and clean well, taking compressed air to it.  Can't hurt a thing there.
> 
> There is an oil hole on both sides of the bar.  Often, if one side of the bar is used, the oil hole on the other side can get plugged.  If you switched the bar (turned it over) and didn't clean that oil hole, that could be it.
> 
> Next, I wouldn't put compressed air to the oil outlet directly.  First, run the saw with the bar and cover off for a a bit to ensure that oil is being pumped out of the unit, as it should be visible.
> 
> Try this and post to let folks know where things stand.



Earlier I cleaned the oiler slot with a paper towel until it was completely dry from oil.  With chain and bar off I ran the saw at 3/4 speed for about 30 seconds and just a 2-3 drops of oil showed in the slot.  Full slot on top did not completely have oil on it.  Not sure of how much I should see but this seems too little.  Your thoughts on amount?  On video I saw quite a bit was coming out of a Stihl saw.  Will try blowing out bar tomorrow.


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## Squirrel

Check the air hole in the oil filler cap is clear, if no air gets in, no oil comes out.


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## pen

Seems too little.  

Maybe, try emptying the oil from the saw and putting in some diesel/fuel oil/kero and shaking it around and dumping it out to help clean the oil tank up.  Might even consider doing that then letting a little try and pump through the saw as you described above to see if there's any change.

Do you normally run bar oil through the saw?  Or do you use used oil, etc.  

Hope things clean up and it isn't time to replace the oil pump.


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## KenLockett

pen said:


> Seems too little.
> 
> Maybe, try emptying the oil from the saw and putting in some diesel/fuel oil/kero and shaking it around and dumping it out to help clean the oil tank up.  Might even consider doing that then letting a little try and pump through the saw as you described above to see if there's any change.
> 
> Do you normally run bar oil through the saw?  Or do you use used oil, etc.
> 
> Hope things clean up and it isn't time to replace the oil pump.



Yes I normally run bar oil (TSC general purpose in summer and Jonsered Winter blend in winter).  The saw actually has very little use on it for being almost two years old.  Usually use my 13 year old JD that has never given me a problem once.  My two year warranty expires on April 28 so if this is indeed a pump issue want to know before then.

Do you think emptying the oil then putting in a bit of diesel then emptying again THEN blowing compressed air into the empty reservoir might pass the constriction?  Not sure if the pump is positive displacement and therefore will simply block the compressed air stream from pushing through oil slot via pump discharge.


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## pen

KenLockett said:


> Yes I normally run bar oil (TSC general purpose in summer and Jonsered Winter blend in winter).  The saw actually has very little use on it for being almost two years old.  Usually use my 13 year old JD that has never given me a problem once.  My two year warranty expires on April 28 so if this is indeed a pump issue want to know before then.
> 
> Do you think emptying the oil then putting in a bit of diesel then emptying again THEN blowing compressed air into the empty reservoir might pass the constriction?  Not sure if the pump is positive displacement and therefore will simply block the compressed air stream from pushing through oil slot via pump discharge.



I'd take it in for warranty if it's still on before putting compressed air to that oil tank.


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## KenLockett

pen said:


> So, if you install a chain and run the saw, how long does it take for the chain to start tightening?
> 
> Does the free-play you feel in the chain when you pull down perpendicular to the bar, in the middle, actually change after running for a bit?  Or does the chain not rotate freely anymore but freeplay is still the same?



AND is extremely tight with no sag. Only way to loosen is to take the nut off and loosen tensioner. Do you indeed think at this point that this tightening and heat on bar and chain is due to lack of lubrication?


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## pen

KenLockett said:


> AND is extremely tight with no sag.  Only way to loosen is to take the nut off and loosen tensioner.  Do you indeed think at this point that this tightening and heat on bar and chain is due to lack of lubrication?



That's why I was curious what you were finding when things got hot, just a tough turning chain, or if you lost the freeplay once cooled.

That's not simply oil if it's still that way once cooled.  Something is not lining up right when setting that cover with the bar.


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## KenLockett

pen said:


> That's why I was curious what you were finding when things got hot, just a tough turning chain, or if you lost the freeplay once cooled.
> 
> That's not simply oil if it's still that way once cooled.  Something is not lining up right when setting that cover with the bar.


Just out of curiosity, how much sag do you allow in your chain when tensioned properly?  Do you actually allow any space between bar and bottom of chain?  I basically tension just until chain touches bar.  No hanging sag.  I can pull the chain from bar maybe 1/8" or so but no hanging sag.  The husky tensioner is very sensitive IMO anyhow.  In the past I have had issues with sag developing over time then having to re-tension.  Others have reported this same issue and complain of the one nut.  Now opposite behavior happening to me so wondering if maybe I am tensioning too tight.


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## KenLockett

KenLockett said:


> Just out of curiosity, how much sag do you allow in your chain when tensioned properly?  Do you actually allow any space between bar and bottom of chain?  I basically tension just until chain touches bar.  No hanging sag.  I can pull the chain from bar maybe 1/8" or so but no hanging sag.  The husky tensioner is very sensitive IMO anyhow.  In the past I have had issues with sag developing over time then having to re-tension.  Others have reported this same issue and complain of the one nut.  Now opposite behavior happening to me so wondering if maybe I am tensioning too tight.


But again still have the extreme heat of the bar and chain so still leaning towards lubrication.


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## pen

KenLockett said:


> Just out of curiosity, how much sag do you allow in your chain when tensioned properly?  Do you actually allow any space between bar and bottom of chain?  I basically tension just until chain touches bar.  No hanging sag.  I can pull the chain from bar maybe 1/8" or so but no hanging sag.  The husky tensioner is very sensitive IMO anyhow.  In the past I have had issues with sag developing over time then having to re-tension.  Others have reported this same issue and complain of the one nut.  Now opposite behavior happening to me so wondering if maybe I am tensioning too tight.



What you mentioned first here is fine.  I snug things up till the chain looks flush with the bar yet drops probably a 1/4 inch in pulled (depends on bar length) but yet spins on the bar without a considerable amount of drag.  Mostly, it's a feel thing.  It slides with normal chain motion but doesn't feel sloppy or overly restricted.  Once I start the saw up, I can also tell if it's too tight by how quickly it comes back to rest if I let it spin then let off the throttle.  Too little free-spin time means too tight.  You can tell this when lifting the saw up between cuts as well.

That said, you are right, getting tighter is an issue that is opposite of what normally occurs.  The chain often will get a bit freer during use as the bar settles back in to the stress and the chain gains a touch of play. 

Getting tighter doesn't play into the normal gig unless something is not aligned properly, or the components in use are not matched up.


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## pen

You mentioned jumping the chain.  How's the drive sprocket look?  I'm wondering if you slipped it enough or it is simply wore enough from use, that its pitch is diminished and once run for a bit, the chain is riding up on it and getting tighter.

Along those lines, have you tried flipping the bar over?  You mentioned needing to open the groove back up, I'm wondering if there's a restriction there that is tough to see.

In all, even with proper lube, something is out of kilter here.

Since you mentioned a problem with the bar, and also low hours on the saw, I'm leaning towards the problem being bar related, and not the sprocket.  But, with it being to where the chain could jump, it could be one or both, but bar first, sprocket second.  Only so many parts at work here that can affect this.

For the time being, if the last you were using the saw you were still going through most of a tank of oil to a tank of fuel, then I'd put oil out of my mind completely for the time being.


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## Jon1270

KenLockett said:


> When I run the saw with the cover, chain, and bar off I see a little oil on the supply slot but not much.



You probably already know this, but just to be sure: the oil pump only operates when the clutch drum is spinning, so if you were just letting it idle with the bar off then it would be normal for oil not to be pumped out.

Given that the chain tightens so quickly you might not be able to answer this, but does the saw consume oil during operation?  Do you find the bottom of the saw wet with bar oil?  Does it leak while sitting on the shelf?  

There's a screened pickup in the oil tank, on the end of a short hose leading to the pump.  The pump is driven by a pinion gear which is in turn driven by the clutch drum, and then there's another hose leading to the outlet next to the bar's oil hole.  The intake is unlikely to be blocked unless you've allowed a lot of sawdust to get into the oil tank.  The intake screen should filter out any particles big enough to plug things up further along, so blockage in the hoses is unlikely.  If the oil tank vent were plugged it would take longer than a couple minutes of operation to develop enough vacuum to prevent oil flow, so that's probably not it either.  From there, I have to wonder whether oil is leaking out before it gets to the pump (which would probably leave a puddle under the saw in storage), leaking from the  hose between the pump and bar (which would wet the bottom of the saw during operation), or not being pumped at all due to a failed pump or pinion gear.


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## KenLockett

Status Update:  Tried cleaning and blowing out the bar with compressed air as well as trying a new bar and new chain.  Same issue as before.  Took it into the Husky dealer today and he confirmed that the oiler is not pumping sufficiently and that the lack of lubrication is causing the chain to heat and tighten (I presume the links on chain in the guide are expanding and binding in the bar guide although I didn't ask him to confirm this).  Anyhow, he is going to check the pump assembly and filter/lines for constriction and replace the oil pump if required under warranty.  I will post the final verdict when I pick it up.


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## sawdude

KenLockett said:


> I have a Husqvarna 450 chainsaw (18" bar) and am having issues with my chain 'tightening' after running for an extended period of time.  I have had the chainsaw for quite a while and am just now experiencing the problem.  The problems started in the winter when I was running the chain in what I presume was too cold of conditions and the chain came off the bar when I got snow and ice into the bar.  I took the bar and chain off and found that I had to slightly expand the groove in the bar and file some burrs off the chain guides after the episode but when complete the chain was moving freely in the bar guide.  Well I decided to buy a replacement chain (full chisel) from Baileys and now when I run the chainsaw after properly tensioning the chain I experience the issue described above where the chain appears to be tightening and the chain becomes very hot obviously.  This is even when I am not cutting.  Suspecting that the chain was not lubricating properly I did the white paper test per the users manual and do see some splattering on the paper but not as much as I would have expected.  I switched back to the OEM chain and same issue with the chain 'tightening' too much (to a point where the chain will not rotate freely) and same oil spray (less than I suspect there should be).  I notice on the bottom of the cover there is a symbol for a oil pump adjustment but I do not see an adjustment mechanism!  The manual is useless as it references the symbol and the fact that it is an oil pump adjustment mechanism but does not illustrate or describe the adjustment!  My question is has anyone else had this issue and have any advice on the cause and the remedy? Can anyone describe how much oil splatter I should get pointing the tip at a piece of white paper for approximately one minute? Does anyone think lack of lubrication of the chain is the issue here?  Can anyone advise on how to adjust the oil pump flow if indeed there is actually an adjustment mechanism?  By the way, the bar looks true based upon my visual inspection, the guides are not obstructed thus preventing oil distribution along the bar, the nut is cranked down, and the tensioning bolt and plastic guide inside cover appear to not be loosening and operating correctly (mentioned this as I have heard others cite these issues on other threads when there were issues with chain loosening).  Hope I was able to clearly explain my question.  Thanks in advance for any advice.


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## sawdude

My 450 rancher wasn't lubricating the chain to suit me I took the auto oiler off and drilled the hole on the oiler itself to twice it's factory size it uses about a tank of oil per tank of fuel now saves a bundle on chains


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## KenLockett

sawdude said:


> My 450 rancher wasn't lubricating the chain to suit me I took the auto oiler off and drilled the hole on the oiler itself to twice it's factory size it uses about a tank of oil per tank of fuel now saves a bundle on chains


It definitely lubes slow, roughly 1 1/2 - 2 1/2 fuel tanks per tank of oil depending on the oil type (winter versus summer formulation).  How easy was it to take the oiler out?  The dealer replaced mine under warranty so I didn't have to take it out.


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## dougand3

Oil pump assy will come out easily but you have to take clutch, drum and bearing off first.


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## jatoxico

I was using Husqvarna brand oil w/o a problem but added some box store oil (HD) I have that I felt was thinner. Don't think I was really under oiling but does seem to get more to the b/c since it flows more easily.


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## toyman65

KenLockett said:


> I have a Husqvarna 450 chainsaw (18" bar) and am having issues with my chain 'tightening' after running for an extended period of time.  I have had the chainsaw for quite a while and am just now experiencing the problem.  The problems started in the winter when I was running the chain in what I presume was too cold of conditions and the chain came off the bar when I got snow and ice into the bar.  I took the bar and chain off and found that I had to slightly expand the groove in the bar and file some burrs off the chain guides after the episode but when complete the chain was moving freely in the bar guide.  Well I decided to buy a replacement chain (full chisel) from Baileys and now when I run the chainsaw after properly tensioning the chain I experience the issue described above where the chain appears to be tightening and the chain becomes very hot obviously.  This is even when I am not cutting.  Suspecting that the chain was not lubricating properly I did the white paper test per the users manual and do see some splattering on the paper but not as much as I would have expected.  I switched back to the OEM chain and same issue with the chain 'tightening' too much (to a point where the chain will not rotate freely) and same oil spray (less than I suspect there should be).  I notice on the bottom of the cover there is a symbol for a oil pump adjustment but I do not see an adjustment mechanism!  The manual is useless as it references the symbol and the fact that it is an oil pump adjustment mechanism but does not illustrate or describe the adjustment!  My question is has anyone else had this issue and have any advice on the cause and the remedy? Can anyone describe how much oil splatter I should get pointing the tip at a piece of white paper for approximately one minute? Does anyone think lack of lubrication of the chain is the issue here?  Can anyone advise on how to adjust the oil pump flow if indeed there is actually an adjustment mechanism?  By the way, the bar looks true based upon my visual inspection, the guides are not obstructed thus preventing oil distribution along the bar, the nut is cranked down, and the tensioning bolt and plastic guide inside cover appear to not be loosening and operating correctly (mentioned this as I have heard others cite these issues on other threads when there were issues with chain loosening).  Hope I was able to clearly explain my question.  Thanks in advance for any advice.


If you are using this saw in cold weather where ice and snow are getting to the chain and bar it could actually be shrinking. I have used the saw in early spring cutting a maple tree where the cold sap flowed causing the chain to lock. Had to loosen it to the point of a 2" sag to cut with. As soon as the cutting started the chain tightened to normal operation. Have had to do the same when cutting holes in the ice for fishing in the winter.


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## jhummel73

I just bought a 450 rancher this past Sunday. Went to work on bucking 4 cords of birch, but the chain partly seized in the bar four or five times over about an hour. Each time I took the bar off and checked the oil passage, everything clear. Some oil was making it on the chain, but when I did the white paper test, only a few drops were being thrown off. I was using the pro elect premium bar oil from Lowes. I was also checking the chain tension each time. I took the saw back and got a replacement. This time to be safe I bought the husky bar oil. Tried it again, and sawed for about an hour. The chain started out nice and lubed. As time went on it got sort of dry again. Checked the bar lube port and it was clear. Air temp was in the upper 50s. I guess it did okay this time but to me the chain doesn't look like it's getting enough lube to me. Used about 2/3 of the oil to almost a tank of gas. There is no oil adjustm on this saw.

Sent from my SM-T550 using Tapatalk


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## MaulMan

I have an older 455 Rancher that had the same symptoms as what the OP described.  After a ton of research and trial and error I determined that the problem was the oil intake filter.  The original one has a very coarse screen and would allow debris into the hose and it would clog.  I changed the hose to a larger diameter one with a finer screen and it completely resolved the problem.  
This is apparently a know and co.money issue on the older models of the 455 Rancher.  I have no idea if the 450 that you have could possibly have the same issue, but it seems like it would be worth checking out.  
If needed, I could go back and dig up some of the details about what parts I bought and maybe even some pictures I took comparing the hoses and filters.


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## jhummel73

that would make sense for an older chainsaw but mine was brand new.  I have finished bucking up into 14 inch lengths about 1 1/2 cords of white birch and only had an issue once with the chain this time around.  It got kind of tight and didn't want to spin freely. This time it was a blocked oil passage in the bar. This saw seems to be working fine. As time passes, I'll keep an eye on that filter. Thanks.

Sent from my SM-T550 using Tapatalk


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