# Settings on an American Harvest 6039



## Reefwonders

This the first time I ran the stove straight for over 24hrs. The glass  was almost completely black and the burn pot seems to full to overflowing. I read in the manual that it comes set from the factory to burn corn,so does that mean something on the control panel needs to be set to burn pellets. In 24 hrs it used a little over one bag of ProPellets. Thanks in advance for the help.


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## Reefwonders

The pot still in cool down mode. It usually takes over an hour for the circulating fan to stop. Hope this helps. The agitator does run after the auger dumps in pellets. Not noticing much smoke coming out of stack after its up to temp.


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## imacman

To be blunt, that burn pot is a mess.....no way it should be like that, even after shut-down. 

Is the stirrer in the burn pot actually working?

I'm thinking either you don't have enough burn air, or the control board needs to be re-set for pellets.  Is there any adjustments mentioned in the owners manual about this??

IMO, the fuel feed needs to be turned down, and the burn air turned up.  Clean out that burn pot completely before trying any adjustments.


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## imacman

Oh, btw....if you need help with the stove from someone that actually owns one, try sending a PM to forum member "Schoondog"....he has the same stove.  Great guy and I'm sure could help you out with settings of the control board.

This a NEW stove, correct?


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## jtakeman

We have a member here named schoondog and he has a 6039. Send him a PM maybe he can help ya!

I didn't see anything in the manual for pellet/corn setting. But there is some adjustments you could try. Hold the B button and then press the Up arrow to add more air. Then try the A button
 and the down arrow to reduce the fuel.

*From the manual*



> Adjusting the Air/Fuel Mixture
> The two adjustments necessary for proper air/fuel mixture are the combustion air/blower setting and the auger run time setting. These two
> adjustments are the basis for allowing this model the ability to burn many types of fuel in many different installations.
> The auger run time adjustment is made by pressing the “A” button and adjusting the nine variables up or down as necessary. This allows the user
> ultimate control of the amount of fuel delivered. Increasing the number displayed, feeds more fuel and lowering the number deceases the fuel.
> When adjustments are needed for the Combustion air/blower, press “B” and adjust up or down as required. The adjustments made here are
> saved automatically and applied to all nine heat ranges. Even though all nine heat ranges are affected, the lower ranges are adjusted the most.
> These adjustments allow, “tweaking” your unit for maximum efficiency.
> 
> ***Note: On some models the “A” and “B” buttons are deactivated from the factory.***
> If activation of “A” and “B” is necessary
> • Step 1 turn unit “ON”.
> • Step 2 Press and hold the Blower “UP” arrow and the Heat range “DOWN” arrow at the same time for 5 seconds. In most cases, you will see
> the numbers displayed in the heat range window and blower window blink. Then release the buttons and press “A” or “B” buttons to check
> activation. When activated, pressing either button will display a light above that letter and display a single digit in the blower speed window. The
> heat range window will be blank. If not activated, repeat the Step 1.


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## Reefwonders

The stirer is working. By the time the fan shuts off the pot is just about or completely empty. There isn't much about the setting in the manual. I'll try what the manual says to do though.


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## Reefwonders

Wow you guys are really fast. Thanks so much.


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## Reefwonders

So I should turn up the air and turn down the feed. 

imacman its a used unit. Per my friend he only ran 10bags through. He was running mostly corn,but it was a mixture.


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## jtakeman

pete, We must of been typing at the same time. hehe 

Where our old buddy schoondog been? Haven't seen hide no hair of him in a while now!


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## imacman

Reefwonders said:
			
		

> So I should turn up the air and turn down the feed.
> 
> imacman its a used unit. Per my friend he only ran 10bags through. He was running mostly corn,but it was a mixture.



And it was completely opened up & cleaned, correct?

As for the adjustments, yes, turn the air up some, and the fuel feed down some.   

Go a little at a time and let the stove settle itself out on each setting before changing it again.  I'd say let the stove run for about 45 minutes after each change to see what happens.


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## imacman

j-takeman said:
			
		

> pete, We must of been typing at the same time. hehe
> 
> Where our old buddy schoondog been? Haven't seen hide no hair of him in a while now!



LOL....yep, great minds think alike!  

Yep, last time I "spoke" to Schoon, he said he was very busy (work) and couldn't join us on the forum too much.


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## Reefwonders

Yep it was completely cleaned. My friend showed me how and to use some tubing to get in all the book and crannys.


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## Scoop

I have one of these. What setting are you running it at?



Mine right now is at   heat range 3, room fan 9, draft fan 2, auger speed 1. 

That heats my downstairs which is about 1,300 sq feet.   

Draft is pulled out about an inch to where you have a campfire-looking flame.


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## imacman

Scoop said:
			
		

> I have one of these. What setting are you running it at?
> 
> 
> 
> Mine right now is at   heat range 3, room fan 9, draft fan 2, auger speed 1.
> 
> That heats my downstairs which is about 1,300 sq feet.
> 
> Draft is pulled out about an inch to where you have a campfire-looking flame.



There's an adjustment for draft air on the control board AND manually too??  YIKES   :gulp: ....Holy Complicated Adjustments Batman!


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## Scoop

I have one of these. There is no separate corn setting for this stove.  You do have an automatic option-the button at the far right of the board..   That is a good place to start, with the manual draft pulled out about an inch.


This is a very flexible stove which allows you to burn your fuel very efficiently when you get onto it.

What settings are you using?

at the moment im running mine at   3,9,2,1  (left to right on the board). At this setting my stove would run about 18 hours on a bag.


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## Scoop

imacman said:
			
		

> Scoop said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have one of these. What setting are you running it at?
> 
> 
> 
> Mine right now is at   heat range 3, room fan 9, draft fan 2, auger speed 1.
> 
> That heats my downstairs which is about 1,300 sq feet.
> 
> Draft is pulled out about an inch to where you have a campfire-looking flame.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's an adjustment for draft air on the control board AND manually too??  YIKES   :gulp: ....Holy Complicated Adjustments Batman!
Click to expand...


This stove allows unlimited variations on your burning conditions. I'm in my third season with the 6039 and I love it.  There is a manual draft under the burn pot and the setting on the board is your draft fan.


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## Reefwonders

[quote author="Scoop" date="1289890984"]I have one of these. What setting are you running it at?



Mine right now is at   heat range 3, room fan 9, draft fan 2, auger speed 1. 

That heats my downstairs which is about 1,300 sq feet.   

Draft is pulled out about an inch to where you have a campfire-looking flame.[
/quote]

I have mine set just like yours now. How does you glass look after 12hrs of running?


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## schoondog

Hey folks I'M HERE. Sorry I haven't been here much , working and It's hunting season  Reefwonders your problem has to be that the draft damper is closed to much. As scoop said his is out about an inch. The draft damper is nothing more than a manual damper right under the burn pot. The lever is directly in the center of stve right under door. Clean out the burn pot, put in a few handfuls of pellets, some starter jell or hit the pellets with propane torch for a minute to get em goin and close door. Hit the on button after a minute and I just leave mine on auto and heat range 2 (HR-2) on LED. Now pull that lever in center of stove out an inch or more. You should see flame dance and see some sparks coming from burn pot. Once pellets are fully lit you can play with that damper all you want, just be sure its out at leat 3/4 to1" If you are not getting the desired effect pulling out the damper lever than perhaps you are having problem with combustion blower or clog in chimney/vent. If you are burning pellets I just leave mine on auto and let her eat. Of course you can put the stove in many configurations and get many different burns. If the stove reads HR for heat ranges and not CR than its set up for pellets or pellets/corn mix and not 100% corn. The only time I've ever seen my stove do what your stove did is when someone accidently hit the damper in all the way and let it run for a few hours before we noticed. Also be sure the 2 plates at the rear at either side of burn pot are there and closed and be sure the 2 clean outs are closed on bottom of chamber. If the combustion fan doesn't work you should be getting an error code 7 I believe. Also we can try performing the factory tests if you believe the draft (combustion) fan is not working. Lets see what happens.

Schoondog


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## Reefwonders

Using a phone to surf can have its UPS and downs. 

Scoop, I have mine set like yours now. How's your glass after 12 hrs of running?


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## Scoop

Reefwonders said:
			
		

> Scoop said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have one of these. What setting are you running it at?
> 
> 
> 
> Mine right now is at   heat range 3, room fan 9, draft fan 2, auger speed 1.
> 
> That heats my downstairs which is about 1,300 sq feet.
> 
> Draft is pulled out about an inch to where you have a campfire-looking flame.[
> /quote]
> 
> I have mine set just like yours now. How does you glass look after 12hrs of running?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It''s all in the setting of the manual draft under the burn pot.  The lazier the flame the more soot you'll get on the glass.  It's like fine tuning a guitar, you need just the right touch to minimize the soot.
> 
> So if there is a lot of soot pull the draft out a bit further and get a more active flame.   But keep in mind all pellet stoves are going to deposit some soot unless you burn them really hot.
Click to expand...


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## Reefwonders

Schoondog, That's what it was,the damper was closed. Thanks everyone for all the info,so fast.


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## Reefwonders

It's putting out a lot more heat now. Thanks once again to all that held my hand through this.


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## schoondog

Reefwonders said:
			
		

> Schoondog, That's what it was,the damper was closed. Thanks everyone for all the info,so fast.



Sweeeet. Once you get used to it as Scoop said it is infintly adjustable and will burn almost anything including grass pellets. I really like mine and hope you have good luck with yours. 

Schoondog


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## Reefwonders

Schoondog, I know about being busy and wanting to hunt. I walk out the back door to hunt and still too busy. I have at my disposal my 5 acres of woods and 30 more of woods connected to mine  and 100 of farm fields.


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## imacman

schoondog said:
			
		

> Reefwonders said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Schoondog, That's what it was,the damper was closed. Thanks everyone for all the info,so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweeeet. Once you get used to it as Scoop said it is infintly adjustable and will burn almost anything including grass pellets. I really like mine and hope you have good luck with yours.
> 
> Schoondog
Click to expand...


Schoondog to the rescue!! Good catch there bud.  ;-)


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## Reefwonders

If anyone needs help with a saltwater fish tank or reef tank LMK, that my area of expertise.


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## schoondog

Reefwonders said:
			
		

> Schoondog, I know about being busy and wanting to hunt. I walk out the back door to hunt and still too busy. I have at my disposal my 5 acres of woods and 30 more of woods connected to mine  and 100 of farm fields.


Ya I used to have that, but 2 farmers around me sold there land and now I have 40 new homes surrounding me. Also small parcels across street that was my "honeyhole" are now being expanded on and built on. Now I have to travel some to get access. Just got back from unsuccessful hunt in Ohio. Want to go out today with bow before gun season starts Monday, and its raining pretty good, deciding what to now. Hope your house is nice and warm.

Schoondog


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## schoondog

imacman said:
			
		

> schoondog said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reefwonders said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Schoondog, That's what it was,the damper was closed. Thanks everyone for all the info,so fast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sweeeet. Once you get used to it as Scoop said it is infintly adjustable and will burn almost anything including grass pellets. I really like mine and hope you have good luck with yours.
> 
> Schoondog
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Schoondog to the rescue!! Good catch there bud.  ;-)
Click to expand...


Thanks imac !! With all the help I get on this forum its about time I contribute.   
Shoondog


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## Reefwonders

Ok its at it again :-S 


It ran for 30hrs straight without a problem. When I check the settings I push "A" and I get a 1 in the heat setting and a 1 in the blower setting. Whem I push "B" I get an 8 in the heat setting and a 2 in the blower setting. And the damper is below the pot is an inch out. I did a cleaning last night too.

    The stove has a 2' horizontal and a 3' vertical pipe. At the top of the 3' vertical is an elbow with a 1' horizontal with the cap. The cap is the one that looks like a dryer vent end piece. I'm burning Pro-pellets. I'm going to clean it again tonight and try using the Somersets. It shouldn't make a difference,but it'll cancel that out. Any insight would be appreciated. I may have to hire a Pro to come out and take a look.

   I pulled off the sides to check the combustion blower and it operating and clean. Once it does its cool down I'll take apart and check the exhaust blower.


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## imacman

Reefwonders said:
			
		

> ....I pulled off the sides to check the combustion blower and it operating and clean. Once it does its cool down I'll take apart and check the exhaust blower.



That is the only way to really know if the blower is clean....remove the whole motor/blower unit from the stove.  Wirebrush (gently) any ash buildup off the fan blades, and also use a flexible putty knife under the blades on the motor body....get as much of it clean as you can.  Be careful of any gaskets....might be a good idea to get some spares as some of them rip easily.

Ash buildup on the fan blades can reduce the air CFM the fan pulls through the firepot.


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## Reefwonders

imacman said:
			
		

> Reefwonders said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....I pulled off the sides to check the combustion blower and it operating and clean. Once it does its cool down I'll take apart and check the exhaust blower.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is the only way to really know if the blower is clean....remove the whole motor/blower unit from the stove.  Wirebrush (gently) any ash buildup off the fan blades, and also use a flexible putty knife under the blades on the motor body....get as much of it clean as you can.  Be careful of any gaskets....might be a good idea to get some spares as some of them rip easily.
> 
> Ash buildup on the fan blades can reduce the air CFM the fan pulls through the firepot.
Click to expand...


I saw some others that looked really bad. The combustion blower is spotless. Now on the heat exchanger on top of the unit. Would it be good to get a small enough diameter hose to put in there to suck them out too? Also I see there is an 1.5" intake at the back of the fire box. Should I stick the vac hose in that to suck that out too?


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## Reefwonders

I checked and cleaned everything and it looked like it was going to run good,but this morning when I got up the flame was lazy looking and the pot was 3/4 full. I'm at a lose. Could it be the circuit board is messed up and feeding to much fuel still. The agitator in the pot turns a little over a 1/4 a turn after it feeds fuel.


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## cmooreburn

On my 6039 two things happened and my pot overflowed like that. First, the circuit board began acting strange,not turning off or on untill I pressed the buttons several times. Found out the board was defective and replaced same. More importantly tho, the stir rod got stuck and the shear pin broke like its supposed to. 
 When I started the pellets on fire the stir rod looked ok like it was turning but when it got a full load it quit turning.The pellets overflowed in the pot.
 Try this test. Turn the stove off and cool it down. Remove any pellets and replace the stir rod and cotter pin on the shaft. Put your fingers on the rod and GENTLY try to twist the rod. If it turns then the shear pin has broken. Friction on the shaft will rotate the rod until it becomes loaded, then it stops turning but the feed auger keeps feeding. 
 The shear pin is on the shaft on the motor on the left side as you face the front of the stove. Remove the left side panel and there are two screws that hold the bracket that keeps the motor in place. Pull the motor out and you will see the shear pin. The pins cost about 25 cents.

UNPLUG THE STOVE BEFORE REMOVING THE SIDE PANEL. The circuit board and motor wiring is on this side and static may short the expensive{300.00} board.


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## Reefwonders

The agitator is turning and the stove does come on without any problems. I did try something before I got into the shower. I opened the stove and flicked out some of the pellets and turned up the heat on the unit to 4 and opened the damper another1/4". The flame is doing great and its burning the soot off the glass.
  So when you turn up the heat the combustion air increases. Hopefully that's the issue? I just had it down too low(at 2). I'll see what its like when I get back home later. I think I'm starting to learn at a better rate now.  Chalk it up to being a newbie.


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## imacman

Reefwonders said:
			
		

> The agitator is turning and the stove does come on without any problems. I did try something before I got into the shower. I opened the stove and flicked out some of the pellets and turned up the heat on the unit to 4 and opened the damper another1/4". The flame is doing great and its burning the soot off the glass.
> So when you turn up the heat the combustion air increases. Hopefully that's the issue? I just had it down too low(at 2). I'll see what its like when I get back home later. I think I'm starting to learn at a better rate now.  Chalk it up to being a newbie.



As it has been noted on this forum many times before, the toughest thing to do well on a pellet stove is burning on the low heat settings.


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## Reefwonders

I have learned a lot in such a short time, thanks to this site and all the helpful people here.


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## schoondog

Reefwonders    I see you are having more problems. I had big problem with my stove too. I can't help much when you run in manual mode, I just don't have enough info running in different modes to be comfy telling you what to try.Scoop does have more experience at it. However, If you put everything in "A" ( draft, room, and aux.) the red LED over the mode button wwill be lit all the time, not blinking. Then use the heat range buttons to go up and down, from HR-1 to HR-9.  When burning any type of pellets I have never had any problems in auto mode. I simply raise or lower to match the heat I need to keep house warm. I usually run at HR-2 through HR-5. Right now house is very warm so I backed it down to HR-1 for a while. I would check your burn pot and make sure the holes are open. Shut stove down for 1/2-1 hr. to cool off and pull agitator out and then burn pot. What I do then is put pot and agitator in hot water for a bit then take agitator and tap the crust off the inside of pot. Then I have a wire brush to clean pot up nice. Put back together. I usually do this once a week along with a good vacuuming. Possible that with the mess you had the burn pot is caked with crap. Also once a day or so I move that draft damper in and out several times to clean damper and allow ash to fall into ash pan. You can open tht damper way up don't be scart. I also helps keep the pot holes clean. Just put it back at the 3/4 to 1 " out when your done.

My stove did that thing where it would not shut off and then control panel would simply flash when trying to start. I took the board apar t( 3 pieces) and checked all the fuses and connectors then cleaned with compressed air. I reinstalled and got stove to start . It then shut off with an eror code 5, auger failure. So then I took stove out and began disassembly. I took it outside and cleaned well with vacuum and then compressed air. Put 115v. to auger, turned fine.  Took the fans out and cleaned. Cleaned the chimney too. I was on a roll. Reinstalled stove and fired up. Now had error code 6, agitator failure. When I checked the board for 115v. at the fuse while using the factory test mode and turning on the agitator had small arch at fuse and agitator began to turn. So I disconnected stove power and pinched all the fuse holders and reinstalled the fuses. All the connections and the fuses looked very clean, no corrosion at all. The stove has been working fine for the last 4 days. No issues at all. So before you buy that $300 board, try to clean it and be sure the fuses and fuse holders are tensioned and clean.

Reef    hope this helps.

Schoondog


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## JJ678

So I just bought an American Harvest model 6039. I have a question about adjusting the Air/Fuel mixture. In the owners manual, it says "If activation of A and B is necessary".....when is it not necessary? I activated it and tried to make the adjustments to the auger speed and Combustion air blower, but when I hit "A", it brings me to a set of numbers, but only allows me to adjust the number shown under the blower adjustment. According to the manual, the number should be shown under heat range with the blower window blank.When I hit "A" again, it brings me to another completely different set of numbers. What are these. When I hit it a third time it brings me back to my standard Heat and Blower settings. I ran into the same thing with the "B" button. m I missing something? Any ideas? Do I really need to have the A and B activated??......Also, I started it yesterday and approximately 3-4 minutes after starting it, it shut down and showed an E under heat range. I assume this is some type of error, but I have no clue why it did it. I simply turned it back on and it ran fine for several hours.


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## jackofalltrades001

JJ678 said:


> So I just bought an American Harvest model 6039. I have a question about adjusting the Air/Fuel mixture. In the owners manual, it says "If activation of A and B is necessary".....when is it not necessary? I activated it and tried to make the adjustments to the auger speed and Combustion air blower, but when I hit "A", it brings me to a set of numbers, but only allows me to adjust the number shown under the blower adjustment. According to the manual, the number should be shown under heat range with the blower window blank.When I hit "A" again, it brings me to another completely different set of numbers. What are these. When I hit it a third time it brings me back to my standard Heat and Blower settings. I ran into the same thing with the "B" button. m I missing something? Any ideas? Do I really need to have the A and B activated??......Also, I started it yesterday and approximately 3-4 minutes after starting it, it shut down and showed an E under heat range. I assume this is some type of error, but I have no clue why it did it. I simply turned it back on and it ran fine for several hours.


 I to have a 6039, 2007 model this model only has 3 buttons, A, B & C. I to get two or three values of numbers per each letter (button) pushed. I just installed my stove this year, bought it back in 09 as a slightly used stove and has been in storage ever since. I am still in the learning curve on this stove and have been mapping ALL my set point changes and times let run at these changes. What I revert back to time after time is "A" = 5, "B" = 5, "C" = 9, Damper open 1/2 to 5/8". I get a nice HOT fire with clear clean glass. At this setting it kept me at 70 degrees last night with outside temps reported to be 26 below zero. If I turn it up to "A" =9 & "B" =9 it will heat me out! I have found some of these set points to be for auger speed, firebox air fan, room air fan and I thought I had one more. I'm at work and my notes are at home. One thing I can state is with any changes made, make them small and give them time. I always let the stove go for a min. of an hour before I adjust any other setting/s. I note my results before changing any other settings. Another great tool is a temp. gauge, I have one mounted in my room air vent, huge help in moderating your set point changes. Helpful hints are always welcome! HEAT ON!


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## jackofalltrades001

jackofalltrades001 said:


> I to have a 6039, 2007 model this model only has 3 buttons, A, B & C. I to get two or three values of numbers per each letter (button) pushed. I just installed my stove this year, bought it back in 09 as a slightly used stove and has been in storage ever since. I am still in the learning curve on this stove and have been mapping ALL my set point changes and times let run at these changes. What I revert back to time after time is "A" = 5, "B" = 5, "C" = 9, Damper open 1/2 to 5/8". I get a nice HOT fire with clear clean glass. At this setting it kept me at 70 degrees last night with outside temps reported to be 26 below zero. If I turn it up to "A" =9 & "B" =9 it will heat me out! I have found some of these set points to be for auger speed, firebox air fan, room air fan and I thought I had one more. I'm at work and my notes are at home. One thing I can state is with any changes made, make them small and give them time. I always let the stove go for a min. of an hour before I adjust any other setting/s. I note my results before changing any other settings. Another great tool is a temp. gauge, I have one mounted in my room air vent, huge help in moderating your set point changes. Helpful hints are always welcome! HEAT ON!


 Last weekend I did some tests on my 3-button 6039 that might help others. I took temp. readings at each of the following settings all of which having my room fan on high. A1, B1 = 121F, A2, B2 = 154F, A3, B3 = 177F, A4, B4 = 202F, A5, B5 = 232F, A6, B6 = 259F, A7, B7 = 287F A8, B8 = 313F. Never got to the 9 9 setting. All these tests were done with the damper open 5/8", never touched it once sett. The temp probe was inserted in the room air vent, last vent hole to the right and probe was 8" long.
Question, the C button has up and down sets and when I go all the way up with the up arrows I get a letter "A", my question is, what does this A stand for? Automatic, Auger????
I'm still learning, lots to play with as I dig into this model stove.


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## jackofalltrades001

This should help you out if you have control board #34, I put this together to help anyone that has this control board to get the board back to the factory settings. Hope this helps you out!



American Harvest

Model 6039

12/19/2013

For Control Board # 34


*Board Factory Value Settings:*

“A” Button Is Used For Fuel Rate

“B” Button Is Used For Combustion Air

Press “A” Button Once And The Reading Should Read 1Through 9

Press “A” Button Once Again And The Reading Should Read 1.5

Press “A” Button Once Again And The Reading Should Read 5.0


Press “B” Button Once And The Reading Should Read 9.0

Press “B” Button Once Again And The Reading Should Read 0.8


“C” Button Is Not Used, If The Red Light Comes On above The “C” Button That Means The Value shown Is Plus 100.

Listed Above Are The Pre-Set Values As This Control Board Would Have Come When New.

*To Program This Board To Factory Values, Do The Following:*

Press the “B” & “C” Buttons together, release when you see P1 in the display. Then use the up arrow above the “A” button to change the display to read P9. Then press the “ON” button and the board should turn off, if it doesn’t and you see a “D” or “dashes” just unplug the stove and plug it back in.

The control board should now be in the factory default setting and you should be good to go.

I run my stove on “A” 3 and “B” with a letter A lite up for automatic mode, damper out about a 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch which gives me a nice HOT fire.

*NOTE: To find out what controller board number you have just unplug the stove and plug it back in, the numbers that show up in the display right after plugging it back in is your control board number.*


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## A. Ballard

schoondog said:


> Hey folks I'M HERE. Sorry I haven't been here much , working and It's hunting season  Reefwonders your problem has to be that the draft damper is closed to much. As scoop said his is out about an inch. The draft damper is nothing more than a manual damper right under the burn pot. The lever is directly in the center of stve right under door. Clean out the burn pot, put in a few handfuls of pellets, some starter jell or hit the pellets with propane torch for a minute to get em goin and close door. Hit the on button after a minute and I just leave mine on auto and heat range 2 (HR-2) on LED. Now pull that lever in center of stove out an inch or more. You should see flame dance and see some sparks coming from burn pot. Once pellets are fully lit you can play with that damper all you want, just be sure its out at leat 3/4 to1" If you are not getting the desired effect pulling out the damper lever than perhaps you are having problem with combustion blower or clog in chimney/vent. If you are burning pellets I just leave mine on auto and let her eat. Of course you can put the stove in many configurations and get many different burns. If the stove reads HR for heat ranges and not CR than its set up for pellets or pellets/corn mix and not 100% corn. The only time I've ever seen my stove do what your stove did is when someone accidently hit the damper in all the way and let it run for a few hours before we noticed. Also be sure the 2 plates at the rear at either side of burn pot are there and closed and be sure the 2 clean outs are closed on bottom of chamber. If the combustion fan doesn't work you should be getting an error code 7 I believe. Also we can try performing the factory tests if you believe the draft (combustion) fan is not working. Lets see what happens.
> 
> Schoondog


Mine does NOT have the manual damper, it keeps sounding like it is going to shut off (the room fan) it has been running for an hour now and the fan keeps almost shutting off. Last night it ran for maybe an hour and shut down with the LED blinking above "B". It looks as though this is a HI TEMP alarm, the unit is warm but nothing like my other stove (Countryside Magnum).
Thanks for any input.


----------



## Grocho

Hi All, I have had this question about how the #34 control board (part number 80487 at usstovefactorydirect) works, since it seems to be different than the majority of 6039 owners on the board. This control panel has A,B,C buttons, ON,OFF, HR up/down, and Room Fan up/Down

I finally just called US Stove about it. A button = Auger speed. B button = exhaust blower speed. The first time you press either button, it shows the set point for the low end of the heat range (HR 1). The second time you press it, it shows the set point for the high end of the heat range (HR 9). C button is simply auger delay. According to the rep, there is no automatic or manual mode, and really no other features on the control panel other than this. I assume the control panel calculates the intermediate feed and exhaust settings using these two end points as a line and interpolating the intermediaries..

Hope this resolves some confusion for others in my situation, it definitely clears things up for me.


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## chieffan

Scoop said:


> This stove allows unlimited variations on your burning conditions. I'm in my third season with the 6039 and I love it.  There is a manual draft under the burn pot and the setting on the board is your draft fan.


Excuse me for butting in.  New on the forum and new to the 6039.  Mine is a used 6039T.  I have no manual draft under the burn pot, only a 4" X 6" opening down into the ash pan.  I am having a drafting problem according to the light on the new style board.  What does this 'manual draft' look like?  thanks much.  Chieffan


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## jackofalltrades001

The center ash pan slid is what is used for draft control. I keep mine out 3/4" if not a bit more when below -15 or so. I took my slide out and used a chisel with a light tap on the edge every 1/4" then used a white paint stick at each tiny dent and wiped off any extra paint not needed. This helps to see my settings better in low light.


----------



## chieffan

jackofalltrades001 said:


> The center ash pan slid is what is used for draft control. I keep mine out 3/4" if not a bit more when below -15 or so. I took my slide out and used a chisel with a light tap on the edge every 1/4" then used a white paint stick at each tiny dent and wiped off any extra paint not needed. This helps to see my settings better in low light.


My stove don't have a slide.  Is this under the burn pot,. or under the stove over the ash pan?  My part diagram don't show anything like this either.


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## jackofalltrades001

I have the 6039 model and it is the slide door right under the burn pot with a little spring handle on it. Also have 2 other slide doors one on each side of the burn pot, these two have small spring handles.


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## chieffan

jackofalltrades001 said:


> I have the 6039 model and it is the slide door right under the burn pot with a little spring handle on it. Also have 2 other slide doors one on each side of the burn pot, these two have small spring handles.



OK.  My stove, they tell me is a 6039T.  It has the openings, but nothing over the opening under the burn pot.  The two on either side of the burn pot as well as on the floor has a heavy angled removable iron piece that fits tight against the vertical opening and sits over the floor opening.  I believe there is a difference in models for some reason.  I am going to try closing off some of the large hole under the burn pot and see if I can get the draft error light to stay off.  Thanks much for the information.


----------



## mustangwagz

chieffan said:


> OK.  My stove, they tell me is a 6039T.  It has the openings, but nothing over the opening under the burn pot.  The two on either side of the burn pot as well as on the floor has a heavy angled removable iron piece that fits tight against the vertical opening and sits over the floor opening.  I believe there is a difference in models for some reason.  I am going to try closing off some of the large hole under the burn pot and see if I can get the draft error light to stay off.  Thanks much for the information.



Mine doesnt have one either, its full open under the pot.   Apparently we've got early models of this stove.


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## jackofalltrades001

This is what I am talking about on my American Harvest model 6039. This slide door is right under the burn pot attached to a small spring handle coming out the front of the stove. First photo show this slide 1/2 way open, the other shows it fully closed.


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## jackofalltrades001

Here's another photo showing this slide door fully open. I run my stove with this pulled out 5/8 to 3/4". I'm heating about 1800 sq. ft. with mine with outdoor temps hitting -30 at times throughout our winter season here in northern MN.


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## mustangwagz

i noticed you gotta cap on yoru Outside Air Duct, where's it pulling the outside air from? OR..are you using the air from inside the house?...via the ash pan.


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## jackofalltrades001

I'm pulling from within. I knew someone with this same stove and he pulled outside air and when the stove wasn't running he got a lot of cold through it. The way I use it has worked great for me.


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## mustangwagz

ok good deal, was only curious. I havent got negative pressure issues either, but was thinking about the way secondary burn works with super cooled air. So far this thing seems to burn pretty clean in My opinion compared to what i thought.


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## mustangwagz

im still fiddling with settings and stuff since i dont have the manual draft thing under the burn pot. Was curious if anyone who owns the "non manual draft" could shed some light on settings to achieve hottest room air. Im gonna monkey around with turning up the feed rate and the draft blower and see what i can achieve. So far ive managed to get like 230 outta the room air measured with my "chimney pipe" thermometer and my IR temp gun.


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## Geeroj

I'm crossing my fingers that someone might see this... this thread ended right where I need it to begin. I was just given a 6039 pellet stove and am trying to figure out how to get the most heat out of it. It does not have a manual draft lever under the burn pot. The outside air intake has a cap on it. It has the older A B C type control panel (it came with a newer control panel in a spare parts box, but I'm not sure how to install it... it has a corn furnace sticker on it and I want to burn pellets). I've got it up and running in my garage (testing it before putting it my house).  I have an exhaust pipe running out a cracked door. It seems as though the auger is not feeding the pot fast enough, or the combustion blower is too high. I have the A setting at 9 and B setting at 1. There is a small flame with tons of Sparks. The pellets are new from Tractor Supply. The air is warm, but it sounds like other people are heating entire houses with their stoves and mine doesn't seem hot enough to do that. Any suggestions? Should I try using the outside air intake (though I live in an old drafty house)? Should I try installing that other control panel? Should I crack the ash pan a hair to let more air in (though it seems as there's enough air and not enough pellets being fed). I'm new to all this. I'm not exactly a handy man, but I have enjoyed and appreciated everyone's helping of one another on these threads. Don't know if I will ever be able to reciprocate unless someone needs a math teacher. Thanks for your time!


----------



## ARC

Look on the back of your control board for two spades with TSAT written in front of them, does it have a jumper/wire between the two spades?  You have your feed set on 9 and only a small flame sounds like someone had stove setup with a thermostat without a thermostat hooked up or the jumper wire in place the stove will stay in idle mode and not advance the feed rate.


----------



## Geeroj

ARC said:


> Look on the back of your control board for two spades with TSAT written in front of them, does it have a jumper/wire between the two spades?  You have your feed set on 9 and only a small flame sounds like someone had stove setup with a thermostat without a thermostat hooked up or the jumper wire in place the stove will stay in idle mode and not advance the feed rate.


I don't see anything hooked up to the TSAT. When I tried messing with the A and B settings, I didn't really hear or see a difference in operation. But, maybe it's subtle, or I didn't wait long enough to see a difference. I have another control board I could try, though I'm not sure it's the right one. It's model 80502 and the updated models I see are 80507. I'm gonna try messing with it again today. Yesterday was my first go with it. Thanks for any and all help.


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## Ssyko

Tstat terminal on control board needs to have a wire conecting the two terminals or a thermostat hook up


----------



## FirepotPete

Your control panel should look a lot like this. There needs to be a jumper across the two TSTAT pins. Also when handling these boards please make sure you discharge any static from your body before touching them. Use a grounding strap if you have one.


----------



## Geeroj

FirepotPete said:


> View attachment 215647
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your control panel should look a lot like this. There needs to be a jumper across the two TSTAT pins. Also when handling these boards please make sure you discharge any static from your body before touching them. Use a grounding strap if you have one.


I think my board(product #80496) is an older version of what you are showing (80507). My board just has the big rectangular connection connected and two "vac" wires connected. There are no other wires connected. When I turn up the auger to 9, it goes for about 7seconds (give or take) on heat setting 3. When I turn the auger down to 1, it turns for about 5 and a half seconds. So I'm guessing the buttons are working, but there is still not quite enough pellets being fed. The B button seems to work too, but setting it on 1 still burns the pellets too quickly. Could the auger itself need a cleaning to better push in pellets? I do notice that every once in a while it turns with only a pellet or two being pushed out.. or is that normal?


----------



## ARC

Geeroj said:


> I don't see anything hooked up to the TSAT. When I tried messing with the A and B settings, I didn't really hear or see a difference in operation



If you can take picture of back of control board and post here.  I should have explained better, if the jumper wire or a thermostat are not hooked up you can still change the settings on the control board but the stove will not respond to the changes.  ie you can set heat range on any number but the stove will only burn on idle.


----------



## Geeroj

ARC said:


> If you can take picture of back of control board and post here.  I should have explained better, if the jumper wire or a thermostat are not hooked up you can still change the settings on the control board but the stove will not respond to the changes.  ie you can set heat range on any number but the stove will only burn on idle.


 This is what I got..


----------



## Ssyko

they need to be connected to each other


----------



## ARC

Can you get a straight on pic of the thermostat spade area? Is there a small clip/wire inside that small black box between the two spades, or holes in the small black box were a clip should go?


----------



## Geeroj

Ssyko said:


> View attachment 215658
> 
> 
> they need to be connected to each other


Can I just use a piece of speaker wire? Where do I get the wire?


----------



## Geeroj

ARC said:


> View attachment 215666
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you get a straight on pic of the thermostat spade area? Is there a small clip/wire inside that small black box between the two spades, or holes in the small black box were a clip should go?


----------



## Geeroj

ARC said:


> View attachment 215666
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you get a straight on pic of the thermostat spade area? Is there a small clip/wire inside that small black box between the two spades, or holes in the small black box were a clip should go?


 It looks like there is a gold clip.


----------



## Geeroj

Geeroj said:


> It looks like there is a gold clip.


Also, when I look at the 6039 manual, it is only calling for the connections that I have, the rectangular one and the "Vac" connections. It doesn't say or show anything about the thermostat wire


----------



## ARC

Geeroj said:


> It looks like there is a gold clip.



That would be the jumper, pull it out and then put it back in maybe it does not have a good connection.  You might want to make a jumper from Spade Crimp Terminals just to be sure it is jumped.  But that gold clip is the jumper and that means you have something else causing the stove not to burn hot enough.


----------



## ARC

Geeroj said:


> Also, when I look at the 6039 manual, it is only calling for the connections that I have, the rectangular one and the "Vac" connections. It doesn't say or show anything about the thermostat wire



Yeah the manuals do not explain how to set up stove with a external thermostat.


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## Ssyko

Geeroj  are the pellets your using long, short?  can you post a pic of your spare parts control board. I'am just wondering why they gave you a newer board and its not in the stove.


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## Ssyko

this has got me thinking. what else has somebody changed in the stove that you dont know is right or not. with a low pellet feed did the auger get changed and a 1rpm  get installed instead of a 4rpm? is the mainboard the correct one? have the limit switches be changed?.. heres some homework for ya bud, pull the auger out and put 110v to the leads and see if it's 4rpm. ck the numbers on your limit switches high limit should be a F250 Thermodisc- 60T11. low limit should be F110 Thermodisc- 60T12.


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## Geeroj

Ssyko said:


> Geeroj  are the pellets your using long, short?  can you post a pic of your spare parts control board. I'am just wondering why they gave you a newer board and its not in the stove.


My pellets are just the regular kind I bought at Tractor Supply. They don't look too long, though I've only seen the kind I bought. The other board that came with the stove (the stove was bought at an auction, so there is no way to know the history behind it and how it worked before) looks as though it is for a different model and not for 6039s or 6041s.. I'll send a pic when I get home.


----------



## Geeroj

Ssyko said:


> Geeroj  are the pellets your using long, short?  can you post a pic of your spare parts control board. I'am just wondering why they gave you a newer board and its not in the stove.


----------



## Geeroj

Ssyko said:


> this has got me thinking. what else has somebody changed in the stove that you dont know is right or not. with a low pellet feed did the auger get changed and a 1rpm  get installed instead of a 4rpm? is the mainboard the correct one? have the limit switches be changed?.. heres some homework for ya bud, pull the auger out and put 110v to the leads and see if it's 4rpm. ck the numbers on your limit switches high limit should be a F250 Thermodisc- 60T11. low limit should be F110 Thermodisc- 60T12.


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## Ssyko

Pellets look good.did you get a chance to ck the rpm of the auger motor?


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## ARC

Previous owner could have changed setting try resetting to factory defaults.

Factory Defaults: To return the control to is original factory default settings, Press and
hold the “B” and “C” until P1 Appears,  use the heat range arrow to increase to P9 and Press
the ON Button. The unit will Turn Off and the board will be reset.


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## Ssyko

<—— taking notes


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## Geeroj

Ssyko said:


> Pellets look good.did you get a chance to ck the rpm of the auger motor?


I didn't get a chance yet, but I'm almost certain it is 4 RPM.


----------



## Geeroj

ARC said:


> Previous owner could have changed setting try resetting to factory defaults.
> 
> Factory Defaults: To return the control to is original factory default settings, Press and
> hold the “B” and “C” until P1 Appears,  use the heat range arrow to increase to P9 and Press
> the ON Button. The unit will Turn Off and the board will be reset.


I'll try the factory reset when I get home. Thanks... I'm crossing my fingers that will help.


----------



## Geeroj

ARC said:


> Previous owner could have changed setting try resetting to factory defaults.
> 
> Factory Defaults: To return the control to is original factory default settings, Press and
> hold the “B” and “C” until P1 Appears,  use the heat range arrow to increase to P9 and Press
> the ON Button. The unit will Turn Off and the board will be reset.





ARC said:


> Previous owner could have changed setting try resetting to factory defaults.
> 
> Factory Defaults: To return the control to is original factory default settings, Press and
> hold the “B” and “C” until P1 Appears,  use the heat range arrow to increase to P9 and Press
> the ON Button. The unit will Turn Off and the board will be reset.


The factory reset may have done the trick.I still have the auger turned up to 9 and the blower set at 1, and it is barely hanging on. It's been running for about 30-45 mins and the flame hasn't gone out. I have it running it on setting 5. I'm guessing the flames are typically small in these things? Even on setting 9 the flame was small. I'll keep checking on it (it's in the garage being vented out the door). I'm guessing it will heat better once I get it hooked up inside? The heat seems mediocre in the garage.


----------



## Geeroj

So, after a factory reset, the stove seemed to run steady on heat setting 5 (as mentioned above, I adjusted the auger to 9 and blower to 1). When I turned it up to 8, it was not able to feed the pellets fast enough, and the flame went out after about 15 mins. Setting 5 may be hot enough once I get it inside, but I'd still like for it to work in its entirety. Any final thoughts or suggestions? Would US Stove be any help?


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## ARC

Yes US Stove customer service is very helpful, they will want to know model and serial number of stove.

The A button should be set to 4 and the B should be 3 the stove is made to run on those settings at 9 and 1 the burn pot should be overfilling not empty like you describe.


----------



## Geeroj

The US Stove rep said that I need to make sure there is at least 3 ft of vertical exhaust pipe. If and when I get this thing running right, I will install it with 3 ft of vertical pipe, but I currently am just running a pipe horizontally out the door of my garage while I test the stove. Would vertical piping change the behavior of the burn even when it's a forced exhaust system? Also, she said that maybe the newer 4 button control board might help. Any idea how I get my hands on one of those? Thanks!


----------



## ARC

Geeroj said:


> Would vertical piping change the behavior of the burn even when it's a forced exhaust system?



Every foot or elbow of venting would effect/reduce the draft.  Not sure if 1 elbow and 3 feet of vertical will reduce enough.  I was hoping that they would offer you a slide draft for below your burn pot.  The 2nd generation 6039 has a manual slide damper below the burnpot as does the newer 6041.


----------



## pugowner2

ARC said:


> Previous owner could have changed setting try resetting to factory defaults.
> 
> Factory Defaults: To return the control to is original factory default settings, Press and
> hold the “B” and “C” until P1 Appears,  use the heat range arrow to increase to P9 and Press
> the ON Button. The unit will Turn Off and the board will be reset.


----------



## pugowner2

I'm new here and need help with my 6039.  Not sure if I'm doing this right.  After several weeks of no problems I awoke this morning to no fire burning and no error codes just the green "on" light on control board.  The exhaust blower and room blower were both running.  The burn pot was full of unburned pellets and agitator was continuously running while auger was barely moving.  I cleaned entire stove including hopper and removed auger which was jammed full of sawdust.  Now when I'm ready to start up again the red light over the letter c is lit up. There is no mention of the letter c in any troubleshooting guide in manual.  This is a 2006 stove and i'm the 2nd owner. Auger motor is fine. Any hlp is greatly appreciated!


----------



## FirepotPete

pugowner2 said:


> I'm new here and need help with my 6039.  Not sure if I'm doing this right.  After several weeks of no problems I awoke this morning to no fire burning and no error codes just the green "on" light on control board.  The exhaust blower and room blower were both running.  The burn pot was full of unburned pellets and agitator was continuously running while auger was barely moving.  I cleaned entire stove including hopper and removed auger which was jammed full of sawdust.  Now when I'm ready to start up again the red light over the letter c is lit up. There is no mention of the letter c in any troubleshooting guide in manual.  This is a 2006 stove and i'm the 2nd owner. Auger motor is fine. Any hlp is greatly appreciated!


Which control board do you have? ABC or the four button board?


----------



## pugowner2

FirepotPete said:


> Which control board do you have? ABC or the four button board?


I have the ABC control Board. I went ahead and fired it up Friday night and the light went out and it burned good all night. The main problem I'm having is even on low setting of 2 and 4 this thing has a huge fire that's keeping the main room it's in at around 80 degrees and the glass gets so black you can hardly see the flame after about 8 hours. Also it's burning a lot of pellets.  I have the fresh air kit installed and have been running the damper about 3/4 inch open. Any suggestions you can give me on how to tweak this would be much appreciated. I love this stove compared to the Englander I used to have.


----------



## z1robbie

chieffan said:


> Excuse me for butting in.  New on the forum and new to the 6039.  Mine is a used 6039T.  I have no manual draft under the burn pot, only a 4" X 6" opening down into the ash pan.  I am having a drafting problem according to the light on the new style board.  What does this 'manual draft' look like?  thanks much.  Chieffan



You have an early model .6039 without a draft damper.

US Stove was providing a kit to add damper and two ash cleanouts. Someone here once said it was not necessary the stove will run well without a manual damper.


----------



## Coldguy33

Hi I have the 6039, I don't know much about it it was just here when I moved in, it worked good for a while but one day I went too start it and it started as usual but the blower never kicked on and started blowing heat so it got so hot that it shut it's self off and started smokinb up my house, tried it later that night and yhe same thing. The letter c now is always lit up red, what's my problem??


----------



## FirepotPete

Coldguy33 said:


> Hi I have the 6039, I don't know much about it it was just here when I moved in, it worked good for a while but one day I went too start it and it started as usual but the blower never kicked on and started blowing heat so it got so hot that it shut it's self off and started smokinb up my house, tried it later that night and yhe same thing. The letter c now is always lit up red, what's my problem??


C is showing the auger is in delay mode.
Is you stove plugged into a surge protector?
Have you tried unplugging the stove from the outlet for 10-15 minutes?
Have you looked at the troubleshooting thread at the top of the stickies on the forum homepage? If not here's the link: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ussc-troubleshooting.158667/
You will find you manual and troubleshooting help there.
You may have to reset the board to the factory defaults.
Ask more after checking those hints in the manual. It could be the low limit switch isn't working showing you reaching temp for the fan to come on.


----------



## Lauzon1987

Hello guys. I have the same stove and it not sending pellets in I can manually send them by holding the on button but other then that it's not working for some reason. Any thoughts or ideas


----------



## FirepotPete

Lauzon1987 said:


> Hello guys. I have the same stove and it not sending pellets in I can manually send them by holding the on button but other then that it's not working for some reason. Any thoughts or ideas


Which control board? ABC or four button?

How long have you owned it? Did it work before? Is it plugged into a surge protector? Have you check all of your seals, door, hopper for leaks?


----------



## yeejsou

so what do you guys mean you're setting us set at 3,9,1,2? I'm new to this pellet stove And is trying to figure everything out.


----------



## ARC

yeejsou said:


> so what do you guys mean you're setting us set at 3,9,1,2? I'm new to this pellet stove And is trying to figure everything out.



What stove to you have if USSC 6039 Which board do you have the board that says A B C on the bottom three buttons or the board that says Heat range RF DF Aux on the top 4 buttons.   If the ABC board then you only use two numbers first number is heat range and second number is blower.  so 3 9 would be heat range 3 blower 9.  The ABC board can be further adjusted with the A and B buttons if they are activated.   The 4 button board would have four numbers first number is for heat range, second is for room fan third is for exhaust fan and four for stirrer/agitator speed.  I leave my 4 button in factory mode and it works well, so I only have to change heat range the factory settings runs the other three settings at its own presets.  Some users tweak their stoves for the best burn and change the settings.  The stove will not let you lower the room fan below the heat setting preventing overheating so you could set the heat range on 5 and the room blower on 6 thru 9 getting the air/heat movement you want.


----------



## yeejsou

ARC said:


> What stove to you have if USSC 6039 Which board do you have the board that says A B C on the bottom three buttons or the board that says Heat range RF DF Aux on the top 4 buttons.   If the ABC board then you only use two numbers first number is heat range and second number is blower.  so 3 9 would be heat range 3 blower 9.  The ABC board can be further adjusted with the A and B buttons if they are activated.   The 4 button board would have four numbers first number is for heat range, second is for room fan third is for exhaust fan and four for stirrer/agitator speed.  I leave my 4 button in factory mode and it works well, so I only have to change heat range the factory settings runs the other three settings at its own presets.  Some users tweak their stoves for the best burn and change the settings.  The stove will not let you lower the room fan below the heat setting preventing overheating so you could set the heat range on 5 and the room blower on 6 thru 9 getting the air/heat movement you want.


Yes i got the 6039 with the ABC on the bottom.  All 3 button is working.  I bought it used, yesterday it was working good until I came home from work this morning and the heat range wouldn't let me go on to 4 or over.  If I go to number 4 or over the red light above the A will be blinking and the stove would shut itself off.  Would anyone know what that mean? If it stay on 3, it'll keep itself on and work like normal


----------



## ARC

yeejsou said:


> If I go to number 4 or over the red light above the A will be blinking and the stove would shut itself off



The higher the heat setting the more air the exhaust blower draws and the more vacuum is created.

Light above A blinking is lost of vacuum:  Most likely causes are:
1. Dirty stove or exhaust venting
2. Door Gasket
3.  Plugged or Cracked Vacuum Switch Hose
4. Hopper Gasket
5.  Vacuum Safety Switch

Most of the time it is a dirty stove or venting. Start by cleaning the stove and venting. To check door gasket shut the door on a dollar bill and try pulling bill out, do this all around the door, you should feel resistance pulling the bill out.  Inspect hopper gasket for cuts or gashes some times pellets get closed in the gasket causing gapes some of the older 6039s did not have hopper gaskets.  To check the vacuum switch hose you will have to remove the panel on the left side of the stove, check hose for cracks and if it or the metal nipple attached to the stove are plugged with soot.  If none of these fix problem then you can by pass the vacuum safety switch to see if it is bad.

FirePotPete's excellent stove cleaning thread:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ussc-6039-6041-internal-cleaning.152067/


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## yeejsou

ok, i search on this page here and found someone else with the same issue as me. its the heat range that wont allow you to go past 3. It saying that it might be the vacuum safety switch. i check my vacuum hose today and one end of it was melted. so i went and grab a new one and its still having the same issue. the light about the A is still blinking. could my vacuum safety switch gone bad? i clean out all the ash as much as i can, check the exhaust exit and it was all good from what i can see. please help due to being in wisconsin and the cold weather is moving in fast. if i cant get it to work beyond 3 then i might just have to get a new one or go with a woodstove but i prefer sticking with a pellet stove. thanks.


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## ARC

yeejsou said:


> could my vacuum safety switch gone bad?



Yes it could be the vacuum safety switch but it is more likely one of the other 4 problems I listed.  If you want to buy one the OEM part 80478 is no longer available US Stove went to the 80549 for most of their stoves here are some of the non oem cheaper part.  Never hurts to have spare parts.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=US+Stove+80549&_sacat=0


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## ARC

yeejsou said:


> the light about the A is still blinking



Did you vacuum behind the fire box (between the two walls) it is a spot easily missed?  Dirty venting stove is the most often cause of vacuum loss. Behind D in FirepotPete's picture.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ussc-6039-6041-internal-cleaning.152067/

Did you check to see if the metal nipple the vacuum hose was connected to was not plugged with soot?

Do you own a leaf blower?


Describe your venting IE mine is 1 foot straight out back 45 degree angle, 1 foot straight out through wall, clean out T, 3 feet straight up, 90 degree elbow, 1 foot straight then cap?

Do you have the OAK (outside air kit) installed?

Is E open or does it have a cap on it E FirepotPete's picture
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ussc-6039-6041-internal-cleaning.152067/

Does your stove have the manual damper installed?

What does your heat settings go to 1-5 or 1-9?

Did you do the dollar bill test on your door gasket?  Another test for door gasket is while stove is running take a cigarette or incense stick and move it around door to see if stove sucks the smoke into stove.  You and also use a Barbecue brush, hair brush or comb to fluff up the gasket by *lightly* running it over the gasket to see if it will give you a better seal.      The only time I ever had vacuum error the door gasket had gotten flatten over time and allowed air to be sucked in fluffing it worked for two weeks until I got it replaced.

I am doubtful that it is the vacuum switch itself as when they go you would not be able to run on settings 1-3 like you can, but it is always possible that there is a small crack in the vacuum switch diaphragm.   Your switch is working because you can run stove up to heat range 3.  It is difficult to test switch itself it only measures .05 water column which is really small vacuum.

Do not give up the problem can only be a few things this stove is really simple to work on.


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## yeejsou

ARC said:


> Did you vacuum behind the fire box (between the two walls) it is a spot easily missed?  Dirty venting stove is the most often cause of vacuum loss. Behind D in FirepotPete's picture.
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ussc-6039-6041-internal-cleaning.152067/
> 
> Did you check to see if the metal nipple the vacuum hose was connected to was not plugged with soot?
> 
> Do you own a leaf blower?
> 
> 
> Describe your venting IE mine is 1 foot straight out back 45 degree angle, 1 foot straight out through wall, clean out T, 3 feet straight up, 90 degree elbow, 1 foot straight then cap?
> 
> Do you have the OAK (outside air kit) installed?
> 
> Is E open or does it have a cap on it E FirepotPete's picture
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ussc-6039-6041-internal-cleaning.152067/
> 
> Does your stove have the manual damper installed?
> 
> What does your heat settings go to 1-5 or 1-9?
> 
> Did you do the dollar bill test on your door gasket?  Another test for door gasket is while stove is running take a cigarette or incense stick and move it around door to see if stove sucks the smoke into stove.  You and also use a Barbecue brush, hair brush or comb to fluff up the gasket by *lightly* running it over the gasket to see if it will give you a better seal.      The only time I ever had vacuum error the door gasket had gotten flatten over time and allowed air to be sucked in fluffing it worked for two weeks until I got it replaced.
> 
> I am doubtful that it is the vacuum switch itself as when they go you would not be able to run on settings 1-3 like you can, but it is always possible that there is a small crack in the vacuum switch diaphragm.   Your switch is working because you can run stove up to heat range 3.  It is difficult to test switch itself it only measures .05 water column which is really small vacuum.
> 
> Do not give up the problem can only be a few things this stove is really simple to work on.





Thanks for all the information. i will recheck everything later on due to i just got home from work. No i dont have a OAK, and the E has a cap over it. i have the 3 manual damper right underneath the door. 2 small one on the both side with the bigger one in the middle. My HR goes from 1-9. my pipping goes straight to the T with a clean out the bottom then straight up about 5 feet with a top on. The reason i thought it might be my vacuum switch was the hose that attach to the other end of the vacuum was melted with a small piece holding it. so i took everything off and redid the hosing. i'll have to check to make sure when the hose melt, it didnt leak some plastic into the nipple. I've pull the 2 plate off of D and vacuum as much as i can behind it. so i think that should be good to go. I've order a switch this morning here so i will also wait for it to come in and replace it to see if that fixes the problem. but i will try the paper or dollar bill once the stove runs out of the pellets in it. im hoping it'll be a easy fix as i dont want to spend money buying another pellets stove or go back to burning wood. What metal nipple are you talking about on the vacuum switch?


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## yeejsou

Also my stove right now isn't burning that clean. the glass on the door will dark up after a night of burning too. so i'll have to keep wiping that down too.  not sure if that will be a cause of the problem or not.


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## ARC

yeejsou said:


> i have the 3 manual damper right underneath the door. 2 small one on the both side with the bigger one in the middle



The big one in the middle is the damper. The two smaller ones on the sides are ash dumps and should be closed while running and only open when cleaning the stove.



yeejsou said:


> i'll have to check to make sure when the hose melt, it didnt leak some plastic into the nipple





yeejsou said:


> What metal nipple are you talking about on the vacuum switch?



Sorry I wasn't clearer the metal nipple on the stove that the hose melted on is the metal nipple I was talking about run a small piece of wire or the straw from a can of air down it to make sure it is not plugged.



yeejsou said:


> Also my stove right now isn't burning that clean. the glass on the door will dark up after a night of burning too. so i'll have to keep wiping that down too. not sure if that will be a cause of the problem or not.



Unless stove is running around heat setting 5 the door glass will dark up easily over night almost all stoves behave that way.  But it could mean you have a blockage.

Did you run a brush through your venting I have seen a bird get stuck in there how I don't know but it happen.  Also I have seen where ash has harden and created a blockage in the vent.  When you take the clean out cap off the T ash falls out but the blockage stays because it has hardened.   If no brush try tapping on venting.

Next time you restart the stove light it close and latch door.  Then open the door.  Do you hear the exhaust fan ramp up for a second or two?  That will let you know the exhaust fan is working to adjust vacuum.  

Before you start it back up you could also run the Board test pay special attention to step one.

6039 ABC Board Test

To run this test the UNIT MUST BE COOLED OFF. Power up the unit by plugging in the power
supply cord to the back of the unit. Press the on button

Step 1: Press and Hold down the A and B buttons at the bottom of the board until the display shows
an “0” and a “1”. This steps checks the Exhaust Blower and Vacuum Switch. Check to see if the
Blower is running and if the Red LED is on above the A button. Open the door and see if the LED
goes off; shut the door and make sure it comes back on. If the A is not on in this step check the
gaskets on the door and clean the units exhaust blower and ash cleanouts Vacuum Issue. If so, Press
the ON button to go to the next step.

Step 2: Display will show an “0” and “2”. This step checks the Room Blower. Check to see if the
room fan is running. If so, Press the ON button.

Step 3: Display will show an “0” and “3”. This step checks the Agitator. They should see it turning
clockwise in the burnpot. If so, Press the ON button

Step 4: Display will show an “0” and “4”. This step checks the Auger Motor. With the hopper lid
closed, the auger motor should be running. If so, lift the lid to check the micro switch mounted on
the right side of the hopper; the motor should stop. Close the lid to make sure that the motor comes
back on. If so Press the ON button.

Step 5: Display will show an “I” and “1”. This step checks the low temperature switch. It will
turn on the LED over the “A” if the low temperature switch is open which means it is at room temp.
If so have them Press the ON button. The “A” light will be off if the switch is closed and this tells you
it is hot.

Step 6: Display will show an “I” and “2”. This step checks the Thermostat Plug. Make sure that
the LED (Red light) over the A button is on. If so, Press the ON button to go to the next step.

*Step 7 and 8 does not apply to your stove.*

Step 7: Display will show a numerical value. This is the room temperature measured at the
thermistor attached to the exhaust housing. The displayed temperature should be close to the
room (ambient) temperature. NO temp reading (00) thermistor disconnected from the board
or bad board. Press the On button to go to the next step.

Step 8: Display will show the Frequency of the A/C input voltage. Display should show a 59, 60,
or 61. If so, Press the ON button to go to the next step.


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## yeejsou

well thanks for the information. this morning it wouldn't work for me, but after i switch out the vacuum hose yesterday and this afternoon, i went back to check on it and now its allowing me to go over HR 3 now. i havent set it higher then 5. I've been setting it at 4 since i bought it and its working good for me. I hope that after changing the Vacuum hose and cleaning it yesterday, it'll work good for me.  But if anything change i'll come and give you guys an update on here. thanks. sorry for stealing the owner of this post. thanks again


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## yeejsou

I've bought this aftermarket switch. I was wondering where does the top black nose part where the hose attach to goes where?  The original has only the bottom one. Do i plug the top one off? Help please. Thanks


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## ARC

yeejsou said:


> Do i plug the top one off?



You do not have to do anything to it.  Gray side should be attached to hose.  It is what is called normally closed circuit means at no vacuum it is off and when has vacuum it is on.  The black side is called normally open circuit means at no vacuum it is on and when has vacuum it is off. You do not have to cap the unused black nipple.


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## yeejsou

Thank you


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## Jhancock

I am new to the pellet stove world. I bought a used 6039 with the ABC controls with 34 displaying at initial power connection. Is the draft/exhaust fan supposed to run nonstop? Other then that I’ve had great results tweaking it to be very efficient and producing good heat output with the information provided.


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## ARC

Jhancock said:


> Is the draft/exhaust fan supposed to run nonstop?


 Yes all the time.  From the moment you push ON to about 45 minutes after you push OFF.


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## Jhancock

ARC said:


> Yes all the time.  From the moment you push ON to about 45 minutes after you push OFF.


What would the reason for the exhaust to run even when off. It stays running the entire time it's plugged in. From initial plug in without a fire in it. I don't know much about it, I purchased it used from someone off of Facebook Marketplace. I replaced the distribution blower because the one in it was seized up. It fires up, runs, feeds, agitates and the distribution blower comes on like it's supposed to. The only issue I'm finding is the exhaust running anytime it is plugged in.


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## yeejsou

For this 6039 stove with the ABC display, what's the best setting you guys got or run? For those who own one?


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## ARC

Jhancock said:


> What would the reason for the exhaust to run even when off.


Possible 2 reasons first is easy but not likely problem check your low limit switch to see if it is closed.  IE Take multi meter and check from spade to spade for continuity.  With no fire you should not have continuity.  Sometimes they fail Open and the stove thinks it still has fire and will not end shutdown mode.  Not likely but possible.




Most likely a Triac has failed closed on the control board if you have any soldering skills you can replace it.   A Triac is a on/off switch


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## Jhancock

ARC said:


> Possible 2 reasons first is easy but not likely problem check your low limit switch to see if it is closed.  IE Take multi meter and check from spade to spade for continuity.  With no fire you should not have continuity.  Sometimes they fail Open and the stove thinks it still has fire and will not end shutdown mode.  Not likely but possible.
> 
> View attachment 267270
> 
> 
> Most likely a Triac has failed closed on the control board if you have any soldering skills you can replace it.   A Triac is a on/off switch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 267271
> View attachment 267272


Thanks. USSC support text says it could be an airflow issue and suggested I bypass the pressure switch or it could be a damaged control board. I'm going to try the pressure switch bypass tonight and I'll check the triac switches and the low limit switch while I'm in there. I'm guessing since the distribution fan turns off and on then you're right in assuming it's most likely not the limit switch. Thanks for the great info!


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## ARC

Not your board but it gives you a ideal of what to look for.  I think orange wire pin 10 is your exhaust blower, if you follow path on board it should take you to the right triac.




Your browser is not able to display this video.


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## Jhancock

ARC said:


> Not your board but it gives you a ideal of what to look for.  I think orange wire pin 10 is your exhaust blower, if you follow path on board it should take you to the right triac.
> View attachment 267279


Excellent information! This really helps me out. I wasn't sure if there was a specific impedance that I need to adhere to, but it looks like as long the triac is rated to at least 120V any should work. I suck at soldering, but if it turns out to be the issue $4 fix is better then a $300 control board.


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## ARC

Jhancock said:


> but it looks like as long the triac is rated to at least 120V


Should be numbers on the triacs, if you end up buying new board it will be a 4 button upgrade and you will need new wiring harness as the plug is not the same.


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## SidecarFlip

Gee, I have a 2 button in the shop in a box.  I changed from a 2 to 4 years ago (my plug mated with no modifications).  I tend to save old stuff.  bad habit I guess.


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## SidecarFlip

ARC said:


> Yes all the time.  From the moment you push ON to about 45 minutes after you push OFF.


Actually, until the snap disc opens or closes, which one I'm not certain about and shuts down the stove...  My run time after I push off varies with ambient temperature.  Depends on if it was cooking hard or idling and mine can cook really hard on corn.


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## ARC

SidecarFlip said:


> Gee, I have a 2 button in the shop in a box. I changed from a 2 to 4 years ago (my plug mated with no modifications). I tend to save old stuff. bad habit I guess.


My mistake you are correct  the plugs are the same.


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## FirepotPete

Actually I remember years ago there was an issue with the wiring harness from very early 6039's that would not match the upgraded ABC panel let alone the 4 button panel. Not many but there were a few out there. Probably like my stove. Bought at the Chicago Hardware Show, first of the stoves that got the 4 button board. But! A few things were not upgraded on it like the stoves that hit the market.

One of the biggest was no switch on the hopper for the lid to open or close the safety circuit to ramp up the exhaust fan.


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## SidecarFlip

FirepotPete said:


> Actually I remember years ago there was an issue with the wiring harness from very early 6039's that would not match the upgraded ABC panel let alone the 4 button panel. Not many but there were a few out there. Probably like my stove. Bought at the Chicago Hardware Show, first of the stoves that got the 4 button board. But! A few things were not upgraded on it like the stoves that hit the market.
> 
> One of the biggest was no switch on the hopper for the lid to open or close the safety circuit to ramp up the exhaust fan.


The one I have has no safety switch on the hopper lid but my combustion fan will ramp up when the vacuum sensor senses a loss of chamber vacuum.  The board I have now , there are unused lugs for an ignitor as well as the lid switch that are unused, but I've never experienced any issues at all.

I keep her clean and feed the fuel and all is good in SE Michigan.  I switched from pellets to my 3-1 corn pellet mix Thursday and had to dial down the burn rate to less than 2PPH as it's 74 in here right now, 38 outside.  I like dialing town the feed rate but keep the HR setting at HR3 so my stirrer bar keeps up with sifting the mix efficiently.

Far as I'm concerned, the 6039-41 was the best unit ever made for an inexpensive, no frills heater.  My philosophy is, the more 'frills' you have, the more incident of failure.

There is an RS232 jack on my board.  I sometimes wonder what it's for, possibly an Internet download?


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## Ssyko

SidecarFlip said:


> There is an RS232 jack on my board. I sometimes wonder what it's for, possibly an Internet download?


]
Rs232 was used for programing and communications back in the day. It was slow but it worked well


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## SidecarFlip

Wonder if I can plug our landline into it and ET can phone home?  The landline phone has a 232 jack on the end.....


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## Jhancock

ARC said:


> Should be numbers on the triacs, if you end up buying new board it will be a 4 button upgrade and you will need new wiring harness as the plug is not the same.


After looking it’s a 12A 600V triac. Checked the triac for the exhaust blower and it has failed open so that is why it’s always running. Just order new triac (well a 20 pack) from Amazon and will be swapping it out this coming week. Then I should be golden. Ran it all day today with no issues. 74 indoor temp 45 outdoor temp. Wife was happy but 74 is too hot for this old fat guy. I guess not too bad for $300 for the stove and $100 for new distribution blower, person I bought it from even threw in most of the vent pipe, only needed three 90s and the vent cap. All in I’m still under $500.


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## SidecarFlip

6039's and 41's (ignitor stoves) are about as simple as you can get and to me, simple equals reliable.  Never had any desire or need for fancy trim or lots of electronic gizmo's to fail.  Give me a simple 50K BTU input stove and I'm happy.

I read on here about noisy stoves and laugh.  They are all noisy, they do have multiple motors and fans.  We can do with the noise, no issue.  In fact, after a while it becomes 'white' noise and when it's absent you notice it.

Heck, my wife snores louder than the stove ever is..........


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## Ssyko

SidecarFlip said:


> Wonder if I can plug our landline into it and ET can phone home?  The landline phone has a 232 jack on the end.....



nope diff connections
Rs232 is a data connection using a Db9 (most common)


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## Jhancock

Jhancock said:


> After looking it’s a 12A 600V triac. Checked the triac for the exhaust blower and it has failed open so that is why it’s always running. Just order new triac (well a 20 pack) from Amazon and will be swapping it out this coming week. Then I should be golden. Ran it all day today with no issues. 74 indoor temp 45 outdoor temp. Wife was happy but 74 is too hot for this old fat guy. I guess not too bad for $300 for the stove and $100 for new distribution blower, person I bought it from even threw in most of the vent pipe, only needed three 90s and the vent cap. All in I’m still under $500.


Using my subpar soldering skills, I know have a properly and fully functioning 6039! Thanks ARC for your help!


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## Ssyko

Lol if its working, your skills are not subpar, glad you got it going.


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## yeejsou

Scoop said:


> I have one of these. What setting are you running it at?
> 
> 
> 
> Mine right now is at   heat range 3, room fan 9, draft fan 2, auger speed 1.
> 
> That heats my downstairs which is about 1,300 sq feet.
> 
> Draft is pulled out about an inch to where you have a campfire-looking flame.



when you guys used this setting, is it on manual or auto?


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## SidecarFlip

yeejsou said:


> when you guys used this setting, is it on manual or auto?


I'm presently running HR 4 (which is where it usually is unless it's really cold and windy out), Room fan on 9 (where I always leave it), draft fan on auto and agitator on 1.*  I run a remote T'stat so the stove is always on auto.*  Keep in mind that I run a corn / pellet mix, 3 parts field corn to 1 part pellets of any type.  If I was on pellets, I'd probably run the same settings anyway.  Last cold shot we had (below 0 temps), I cranked it up to HR7, DF auto, RF9 and agitator on 2.  I was sucking down fuel at a high rate of consumption, like about 130+ pounds every 24 hours.  I don't care, my corn is all free anyway.  Only issue I have is the corn ash.  I have to shovel it into the ash pan every 3 days and empty the ash pan every week.

Also keep in mind that I set mine up with a custom algorithm, so my burn and fuel rates are not what the board is factory set at.  If I cranked mine up to HR9, it would go into overheat shutdown.


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