# Chainsaw won't start



## sandie (Dec 2, 2010)

HI,  Got a great chainsaw from a friend, 024(I think), Stihl that works for sure and cuts really well.  My problem is I cannot start it but my friend was able to and the guy at Stihl store is able to on second pull each so not sure I am not doing something wrong to get 'er going.  I pull til it stops and then pull hard but it hardly putters.  Is there a techique I need to know that is what might be wrong with what I am doing?  I did try to pull from start hard but that was same result. HELP need this to start without having to have others start it for me each time.
Thanks in advance for help


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## ISeeDeadBTUs (Dec 2, 2010)

What did the shop guy and your friend do that you are not doing?

Assuming the saw is cold, Squeeze throttle all the way, depress choke lock all the way, pull rip cord.

Sounds too simple to be the solution.

Look around for Candid Camera


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## CTYank (Dec 2, 2010)

sandie said:
			
		

> HI,  Got a great chainsaw from a friend, 024(I think), Stihl that works for sure and cuts really well.  My problem is I cannot start it but my friend was able to and the guy at Stihl store is able to on second pull each so not sure I am not doing something wrong to get 'er going.  I pull til it stops and then pull hard but it hardly putters.  Is there a techique I need to know that is what might be wrong with what I am doing?  I did try to pull from start hard but that was same result. HELP need this to start without having to have others start it for me each time.
> Thanks in advance for help



Sandy, did you watch, or ask, what the other folks did to get the saw started? No shame in saying "I don't know."

You didn't mention if the engine was hot/cold or if the choke was on/off. There's likely also a fast-idle setting (not a Stihl user here.)

I'll bet the other folks did something like:
1) set fast idle
2) full choke
3) crank up to 4 times or until engine sputters, then choke off or partly off, crank and go. Choke fully off ASAP.
5) if no sputter, choke off for 2-3 cranks; if no start goto 2)

If no joy here, ask for next round of 2-stroke diagnostic instruction.

On choking the carb, the excess fuel goes to the crankcase first. Don't flood that.


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## thewoodlands (Dec 2, 2010)

sandie said:
			
		

> HI,  Got a great chainsaw from a friend, 024(I think), Stihl that works for sure and cuts really well.  My problem is I cannot start it but my friend was able to and the guy at Stihl store is able to on second pull each so not sure I am not doing something wrong to get 'er going.  I pull til it stops and then pull hard but it hardly putters.  Is there a techique I need to know that is what might be wrong with what I am doing?  I did try to pull from start hard but that was same result. HELP need this to start without having to have others start it for me each time.
> Thanks in advance for help



Sandie may be this video might help.

http://www.stihldealer.net/videolibrary/OnePlayer.aspx?v=17&vt=17&vb=2&id=17


zap


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## Danno77 (Dec 2, 2010)

Full choke for a couple of pulls, Then half choke until it catches and then give it a rev and go. I can put mine in full choke and pull all day and it won't go.


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## sandie (Dec 2, 2010)

I had the guy stand there and watch me and I was doing what I am supposed to do but not getting the sputtering.  It was a cold engine that I tried and was unsuccessful so then he pulled it with full choke on and it started so he shut it down and had me try but put it in half choke, when I pull it just does not turn it over well enough to get a start out of it.  I am not a powerhouse but gave it a good pull but figure there is something I am doing wrong to get that starter to turn over well enough to get 'er going.
When I get home will check out the video, I am at work now.


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## sandie (Dec 2, 2010)

remember I tried and no sputter, friend tries and on second pull starts right up.
week later I try no go then the Stihl guy does it showing me his way and starts on second pull.  When I pull it is like I am not getting a good pull since it does not even really start to start let alone revup it just does almost nothing so I am thinking my technique of pulling stinks.  Long ago when I had a lawnmower with pull cord also could never get it going and had to have someone else pull the rope and get it going.  I am convinced it is my technique since I think I know when to full choke and half choke and throw it off choke immediately once it starts but I do not get it to start at all. NOT the saw, it is me I am sure!


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## Danno77 (Dec 2, 2010)

Do you ever *cough* _drop start_ *cough* it?


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## sandie (Dec 2, 2010)

cough drop start  cough it?  NOT sure I even know what that means.


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## Danno77 (Dec 2, 2010)

sandie said:
			
		

> cough drop start  cough it?  NOT sure I even know what that means.


shhhh, don't say it loudly. Drop starting is not safe and not recommended. I just wondered if you'd ever tried it. uses gravity, momentum, and two arms creating force in unison to start a saw. As a weakling with big boots, I find this method to be easier than starting it on the ground like you are SUPPOSED to do. Again, I'm not recommending it, just wondering if you'd tried it.


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## CTYank (Dec 2, 2010)

sandie said:
			
		

> cough drop start  cough it?  NOT sure I even know what that means.



It's an alternative to "eating your Wheaties."

You'll see it done in many videos on YouTube. Do be very careful with that since the saw can move unpredictably, and it seems that maybe you're not a potential Schwarzenegger movie double.

Technique can work for you, for the cranking bit. With a small saw, use your wrist more than your arm, for a short, quick motion. Do NOT pull the rope as far as it can go- you can damage the pulley the rope coils onto.

[tongue-in-cheek]
Now I understand why some saws came with battery packs and electric starters, back in the day. Okay, kinda understand.
[/tongue-in-cheek]


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## ISeeDeadBTUs (Dec 2, 2010)

LOL :lol: LOL :lol:  LOL :lol:  mmmm . . . .Bu|| Shi+  

If you can meaningfully swing an 'old fashioned splitting maul' and can wait for a green light while astride a Gold Wing, you *can* start that saw.

As Danno says, drop starting should not be done until you're used to how/why a saw moves. But for that matter, I didn't know people put the saw on the ground to start it anymore. Even Danno only does it when his wife's watchin :wow: 

If the Dihl stealership started it cold, you *can't* then try to start it with full choke. Did anyone actually show you the different stop/run/part/full choke positions?


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## CSAW (Dec 2, 2010)

It's not how hard you pull or how far you pull the rope (to a certain extent).  It's how fast you spin the engine.  Concentrate on spinning the engine quick/fast.  Kinda like spinning a top, you want to spin it real fast.  Okay, maybe not a good analogy, but kinda.


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## EatenByLimestone (Dec 3, 2010)

Try pulling the slack out of the cord and then pulling.    

I never drop start a saw.  I set the choke, put my foot in the handle, cock my boot over so the throttle is pressed, and pull.  After it coughs once I turn the choke off and pull it again.  One or two pulls and it starts.  

Matt


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## sandie (Dec 3, 2010)

Yes I do know the choke postitions.  I am sure it is technique since I am not a weakling but I will practice until I get it.  The part about not pulling it to pull to the end is important, and the flick of wrist to get a quick pull sounds important.  I will get it by gosh I am sure.


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## Danno77 (Dec 3, 2010)

EatenByLimestone said:
			
		

> Try pulling the slack out of the cord and then pulling.
> 
> I never drop start a saw.  I set the choke, put my foot in the handle, cock my boot over so the throttle is pressed, and pull.  After it coughs once I turn the choke off and pull it again.  One or two pulls and it starts.
> 
> Matt


I need a bigger saw or smaller feet or both. there is no way my foot is getting anywhere near the throttle. Most saws have that flat part of the handle that sticks out enough I can just barely hold it with my toe. It always feels very awkward.


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## EatenByLimestone (Dec 3, 2010)

I don't think I have a small boot,  11 1/2 EE, so it must be the saw.   

I don't think my boot goes in as far with my little Craftsman 42CC limber, but I start it the same way.  People pick on them, but they are a super easy starting saw.

I've tried to drop the saw a few times, but that little voice in the back of my head says I'm going to cut my leg off doing it.  I try to listen to that voice, but don't think it's my place to tell people not to do it if they feel safe.  

Matt


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## brages (Dec 3, 2010)

You could give up and get rid of the 024 and get a Stihl ms250c-be with the "Easy2Start" system.


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## ISeeDeadBTUs (Dec 3, 2010)

Danno77 said:
			
		

> I need a bigger saw or smaller feet or both. there is no way my foot is getting anywhere near the throttle.



*Now* we know how Danno got the model ;-)


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## Danno77 (Dec 3, 2010)

ISeeDeadBTUs said:
			
		

> Danno77 said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


well it sure as heck ain't because I'm wealthy! ;-)


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## lukem (Dec 3, 2010)

CTYank said:
			
		

> sandie said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I do the hybrid drop start.  Yes, I just made that up.

Set choke and throttle appropriately.  Rear handle goes between thighs, left hand on top/side handle at about 10 o'clock position, right hand on pull rope.  When it fires blip throttle to release, release chain brake, get to work.  My size 13's don't fit to hold down the handle and/or it always messes with the choke or kill switch (depending on saw).  I'm no monster...not a shrimp either... but I can get my 361 started like this with relative ease.

The only exception to this is my dad's Homelite 360 XL.  Its 30 years old and has cut hundreds of cord of wood and still has the compression of a locomotive.  I have to wedge my foot in there and throw my body weight into it.  If you can't get that saw to fire in 5 pulls you have to take a break.


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## Adios Pantalones (Dec 3, 2010)

As opthers said- full choke until she sputters, then half choke until it starts.


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## EatenByLimestone (Dec 4, 2010)

Mine doesn't like half choke.  I do full until sputter, then none.   

Do the older saws have a gate to flip over to warm the incoming air like the new ones do?


Matt


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## brages (Dec 4, 2010)

FYI == on Stihls the "half-choke" is more about throttle than choke.  The icon by the lever is a partially open _throttle_ butterfly -- unlike the full choke icon, the sides are curved to show the carb venturi...


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## Jbird560 (Feb 20, 2011)

Roscoe Picco Chain said:
			
		

> You could give up and get rid of the 024 and get a Stihl ms250c-be with the "Easy2Start" system.



Sounds like you don't have enough snot to get the right snap on the pull.  Trade that
toad in on a Stihl 250 C-BE and enjoy.

P.S.  I have a bad rotator cuff and the 250 C-BE makes starting the saw easy.

Jbird


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## hh3f (Feb 20, 2011)

lock the trigger down when starting


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## seeyal8r (Feb 22, 2011)

gym membership maybe.... I've seen people start stihl saws a couple different ways. drop start with full trigger pull is a way i've never been able to master. For larger saws I usually set the saw on the ground. thats how my dad showed me to do it when i was little. then I put my left hand where it goes and my left toe of my boot on the bottom of the throttle handle. This keeps the saw perfectly still and predictable. when i got older i started starting them standing up just holding the saw in my left hand. Cold Cold saws are tougher to pull than a saw that is already warmed up and by that I mean the same saw I start when it is 32 degrees outside is a lot easier to pull when its 100 degrees. 

I'd recommend some practice even some rows, pullups, or back workouts to strengthen the muscles. once you get the technique, speed, and strength it'll be second nature to pull fast.


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## spencer186 (Feb 22, 2011)

The drop start method mentioned will probably be easiest for you. Gravity is your friend.  Maybe not the safest way but I've been drop starting saws most of my life.  Even my 17 lb 394XP and I've yet to have an accident.  You just need to pay attention to what you're doing.  You could always take the chain off until you get the hang of it.  Just be careful not to over rev it with no chain.  Also realize the saw may move a bit more when drop starting with the chain on due to the centrifugal force of the chain.  Be careful and good luck.


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## kettensÃ¤ge (Feb 22, 2011)

Set choke and throttle as needed, hold front handle with left hand, left arm partially bent, grab starter handle with right hand, pull rope and straighten left arm at same time, you will be pushing the saw away from you and gaining some engine start RPM's at the same time.

Speed is the key, also when you pull the rope to set the engine position, allow the rope to recoil into the saw before fully pulling to start the engine.


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