# Best type of sealant for joining Pellet vent pipe



## Val (Apr 7, 2012)

I am wondering what type of sealant is best to use when joining pellet vent pipe together, or do you prefer not to use any sealant and rely on the pellet twist locks themselves. I have used the clear stove silicone, but wonder if I should use the Rutland direct vent sealant instead beause it is latex-based (it also cleans up or smooths over easily) but mainly so I can get the joints apart at least in a couple places for cleaning the pipe. How about automotive sealant? I have not used this on vent pipe and would think you wouldn't want to because it would be hard to get apart. But now I notice that new Duravent pipes come with orange silicone in them with the rope gasket.  Any ideas so I can get these pipes apart later?


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## DexterDay (Apr 7, 2012)

High temp aluminum tape. I use the stuff made by 3M. But there are other Manufacturers out there that make High temp tape. 
I use the Silicone on the stove adapter and High temp foil tape on joints. I also siliconed the Clean-out T factory joint, but it was not leaking. Just did it, to do it because I read a couple posts just before installing, that spoke of factory joints leaking. Preventative measures I guess. 

(Only need the tape on my 4" Pellet Vent Pro system. I have Two 3" Pellet Vent Pro systems with only silicone on the stove adapter)


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## nailed_nailer (Apr 8, 2012)

No sealant on any of my joints.
Pellet Vent Pro 4". 

I guess I was lucky.
About the only thing I added was a bit of hi-temp anti-seize around the threads of the clean out "T" cup.
And that was so I could get it off easily when I clean it.
In the past I have had to use an oil filter wrench to separate it.

I did use high temp silicone where the vent pipe terminates through the roof at the weather shroud.
Above and below the rain collar.  Strictly as a weather seal.

Others have not been so lucky with their pipe seals.
Good Luck,
---Nailer---


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## P38X2 (Apr 8, 2012)

nailed_nailer said:


> I guess I was lucky.
> About the only thing I added was a bit of hi-temp anti-seize around the threads of the clean out "T" cup.
> And that was so I could get it off easily when I clean it.
> In the past I have had to use an oil filter wrench to separate it.
> ---Nailer---



EXCELLENT tip! That thing is VERY irritating to remove. I also use an oil filter wrench and it still sucks. I have to curl up into an ass ball to even fit back there.


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## P38X2 (Apr 8, 2012)

As far as sealing the pipe goes, tape works most of the time. Try it first and if you still have leaks you can chase them down USUALLY by turning the lights off in the room and shining a flashlight on the seams/joints. Its easier to shine the light on the opposite side of the pipe where you're looking. Use the pipe to "eclipse" the main beam and the rest of the light should illuminate the leaking smoke nicely. At that point, my suggestion is to put a small bead of clear or black (whichever color your pipe is) high temp silicone OVER the joint. Smooth it over with your finger, tape it up and you should be all set. 

If you still smell smoke, it could be leaking from the stove itself, BUT, assuming it's still the pipe leaking, you may have to seal every joint, seam and rivet on the pipe. It's unlikely you'll have to do this but I did, and the smoke stopped.


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