# How to Properly Test Wood Moisture Content



## thephotohound

I bought a moisture meter last year... just a cheap 4 prong digital one off eBay for $25. Seems to work well! 

I just want to make sure my common sense it working OK this morning... If I just pick up and test a seasoned split and it reads 20%, then I split it and test the fresh part (inside), and it's 37%, the moisture content is still 37%, right?? Or is the exterior moisture content more important, because by the time the interior portion actually starts to burn, it's dried out from being in the firebox??


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## babalu87

Correct method
The 37% is the moisture content of the wood. When a split has more than the ideal moisture (15-20%) it has to be driven off as steam and steam in a woodstove is a reduction in its efficiency/heat output or in laymans term BAD

That wood probably needs another year to dry out, I get readings of around 40% on fresh cut wood.


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## n6crv

This has to do with the same question. what happens when wood that that has seasoned for a couple of years gets wet from rain. Does the seasoning have to start over? Or during the winter when it gets covered with snow? Thanks
Don


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## Todd

Babs is correct, split the wood and take readings. You should be somewhere around 15-25% for dry wood. Also check your moisture meter directions to see how far you stick the tines into the wood. Mine says about 5mm. I noticed a big difference in readings between pushing the tines in all the way or just 5mm.


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## DiscoInferno

N6CRV said:
			
		

> This has to do with the same question. what happens when wood that that has seasoned for a couple of years gets wet from rain. Does the seasoning have to start over? Or during the winter when it gets covered with snow? Thanks
> Don



Brief wetness from rain generally won't soak into non-punky wood much, and will evaporate when the sun comes back out.  With snow cover it depends on how long and if the temps stay below freezing or ping-pong above and below.  The latter is a good way to have soggy wood, as the snow holds the water next to the wood.  And if you get a lot of snow, then an extended spring melt may result in soggy wood also.  Best to just brush it off before it melts.

The working theory seems to be that "seasoned" and "dry" are somewhat different properties, and that "wet seasoned" wood will dry again more quickly than will "wet unseasoned" wood due to a different distribution of water in and around the cells.  YMMV, I try to dry wood only once.


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## Highbeam

I use a moisture meter too and use the inside reading as the truth. I shoot for 20% maximum and find that a 15% is much much better to burn. I only spot check and if I pick up a particularly heavy split then I might check that one too, and split it extra small if it is on the wet side. Once I establish that the pile is in good shape then I don't check as often. The gadget is great fun.


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## Vic99

Hey Highbeam, how do you like the Heritage?  I'm hopefully getting one that vents out of the my centrally located fireplace.  First I have to remove a ton of trim wood to make code.  Do you burn 24/7?  What size home?  If you had to do it over again, would you get another Heritage?  Thanks.


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## Highbeam

The Heritage is installed as of last week. I have yet to get a permit so all I have burned was a couple of sheets of newspaper for fun. I will burn 24/7 in a 1700 SF rambler with little insulation, single pane windows, and no floor insulation. We love the looks of the stove and soapstone has a strong reputation as a heater. I removed a masonry fireplace with a Lopi insert that had a blower which we disliked. So far so good, it looks very nice up on the hearth in my living room with outside air plumbed, rear heatshield, and double wall pipe. 

The attached photo is from one of the forum's members and was an inspiration.


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## BrotherBart

Highbeam said:
			
		

> The Heritage is installed as of last week. I have yet to get a permit so all I have burned was a couple of sheets of newspaper for fun. I will burn 24/7 in a 1700 SF rambler with little insulation, single pane windows, and no floor insulation. We love the looks of the stove and soapstone has a strong reputation as a heater. I removed a masonry fireplace with a Lopi insert that had a blower which we disliked. So far so good, it looks very nice up on the hearth in my living room with outside air plumbed, rear heatshield, and double wall pipe.
> 
> The attached photo is from one of the forum's members and was an inspiration.



Those suckers are too pretty to light a fire in'em. They need an LCD TV screen in the door.


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## Harley

BrotherBart said:
			
		

> Those suckers are too pretty to light a fire in'em. They need an LCD TV screen in the door.



LOL, BB.... they is even "purdier" when you gots a good fire goin' in 'em.


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## Highbeam

I'm pretty sure that's your stove Harley? I get the inspection on Wednesday, wifey wanted heat today.


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## Harley

Highbeam said:
			
		

> I'm pretty sure that's your stove Harley? I get the inspection on Wednesday, wifey wanted heat today.



It is.  I'm sure you will really like it.  BTW - I did re-support the T in the back that you see in the picture, and got that mess in the original fireplace opening cleaned up.


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## bcnu

Think I'll get a moisture meter to see how my wood is doing - thanks for the info.  My Hearthstone Homestead was installed a few months ago and I still haven't done the initial fires.  If it heats as well as it looks - then I'll be a happy camper.   I'll put up some pics when we light 'er up.


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## R&D Guy

Highbeam said:
			
		

> The attached photo is from one of the forum's members and was an inspiration.



AAh, my dog use to do the same thing when I had a wood stove!


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## Havlat24

ThePhotoHound said:
			
		

> I bought a moisture meter last year... just a cheap 4 prong digital one off eBay for $25. Seems to work well!
> 
> I just want to make sure my common sense it working OK this morning... If I just pick up and test a seasoned split and it reads 20%, then I split it and test the fresh part (inside), and it's 37%, the moisture content is still 37%, right?? Or is the exterior moisture content more important, because by the time the interior portion actually starts to burn, it's dried out from being in the firebox??



False...  Moisture meters cannot accurately measure moisture content in wood past the fibre saturation point of the wood being tested.   Most electronic hand held moisture meters are only accurate between the ranges of 5-25% moisture content.


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## Harley

Havlat24 said:
			
		

> False...  Moisture meters cannot accurately measure moisture content in wood past the fibre saturation point of the wood being tested.   Most electronic hand held moisture meters are only accurate between the ranges of 5-25% moisture content.



Well - that is true, but that doesn't mean that they cannot be used as a "guide", as to whether or not the wood is wetter or dryer than you would like, and then you just get a "feel" for it, so for some - it's probably a good tool.  Even the most expensive moisture detection devices will not really give 100% certainty as to the moisture content of wood (or a lot of other materials for that matter).  There's only one way of determining it with that degree of certainty, and that's by weighing before, and then cooking off the moisture <at a lower temp, so you are not burning off the VOC's along with the water>, and then weighing it after.  I don't think most would want to send their wood to a lab to get a real accurate reading.

I'd say - use those things as a guide if you like - take a chunk and split it in 1/2 - see what the reading is and see how it burns.


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## Havlat24

Harley said:
			
		

> Havlat24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> False...  Moisture meters cannot accurately measure moisture content in wood past the fibre saturation point of the wood being tested.   Most electronic hand held moisture meters are only accurate between the ranges of 5-25% moisture content.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well - that is true, but that doesn't mean that they cannot be used as a "guide", as to whether or not the wood is wetter or dryer than you would like, and then you just get a "feel" for it, so for some - it's probably a good tool.  Even the most expensive moisture detection devices will not really give 100% certainty as to the moisture content of wood (or a lot of other materials for that matter).  There's only one way of determining it with that degree of certainty, and that's by weighing before, and then cooking off the moisture <at a lower temp, so you are not burning off the VOC's along with the water>, and then weighing it after.  I don't think most would want to send their wood to a lab to get a real accurate reading.
> 
> I'd say - use those things as a guide if you like - take a chunk and split it in 1/2 - see what the reading is and see how it burns.
Click to expand...



I agree.   I was just trying to point out that the moisture content in this fellows wood is probably much more than 37%...as most of those prong type meters max out around that reading.


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## begreen

Agreed. If you split it and it reads >25%, it's not dry. You want it to read below 20% all the way through. Burning it to dry out the interior core is not the way to go. It will burn with less heat and produce more creosote.

Eventually when you know the wood, you can tell it's really dry by weight. And if you split it, try holding it up to your cheek. It's still damp it will feel cool.


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## bcnu

BeGreen, should your pants be up or down when holding the wood against your cheek :red:


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## begreen

LOL. Let's just say that you need to turn the wood to the other cheek


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## Harley

Havlat24 said:
			
		

> I agree.   I was just trying to point out that the moisture content in this fellows wood is probably much more than 37%...as most of those prong type meters max out around that reading.



Oh, I do agree with you, and on either end - they are not going to be real accurate, but probabably a decent guage to use if someone is not really sure of how dry the wood is - split the "test" piece and take a reading - if in the upper 20-30% - maybe not quite ready for prime time yet - but if the reading is is the mid to lower 20's - it should be good to go - after a little while - you should be able to tell whether or not the wood is ok to burn without using the meter.


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## BrotherBart

I have a moisture meter but no matter what it says when I hear "Yo! Bart! It is getting cold up here!" from upstairs then I know that the wood is ready.


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## 11 Bravo

Quite a difference. Picked up a reader from Harbor Freight for $15. Was stickin the prongs in the end of the wood in my pile I cut /split/stacked in April. Was reading 10-15%, thought was a bit low. I split a few open, tested the inside and now reading 20-30% or so. That's more realistic. Thanks for the info.................


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## Todd

Get ready to laugh. Here is another way to see if your wood is ready. I think Babs told us this one awhile back. Take a split and rub some liquid soap on one end, then wrap your lips around the other end and blow. :red: If the wood is dry it will blow bubbles. HA Ha, this actually came from the Morso web site. I know some of you will try it.


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## thephotohound

All great comments... Thanks... 

I know that a $25 moisture meter isn't going to be extremely accurate, but I just wanted to get an idea. Seeing this is just my 2nd year burning,  I assume it will be a few more until I'm really comfortable with eye-ing it up and being able to tell. 

In fact, because of my readings (some was 37%), I am picking up a cord of 3 yr seasoned oak for $50, in order to give my other 3.5 cord some additional time to dry...


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## begreen

ThePhotoHound said:
			
		

> In fact, because of my readings (some was 37%), I am picking up a cord of 3 yr seasoned oak for $50, in order to give my other 3.5 cord some additional time to dry...



You can split the oak again and that will hasten the drying, but getting some more dry wood is a good plan. 

At that price, if it's split and as advertised, you're stealing it. That's a great deal, even for a face cord. I think you should get at least 4 face cords though. Or a couple full cords. Just be sure it's really dry. Bring your splitter and the moisture meter and perform the same test and don't be afraid to walk away if it's not dry.


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## thephotohound

Thanks for the confidence... Will do.


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## babalu87

Todd said:
			
		

> Get ready to laugh. Here is another way to see if your wood is ready. I think Babs told us this one awhile back. Take a split and rub some liquid soap on one end, then wrap your lips around the other end and blow. :red: If the wood is dry it will blow bubbles. HA Ha, this actually came from the Morso web site. I know some of you will try it.



It works but it makes my cheeks hurt :D


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## Bill

I tried the soap thing also, but I put the wrong end in my mouth, that soap had a nasty taste.


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## got wood?

ThePhotoHound said:
			
		

> All great comments... Thanks...
> 
> I know that a $25 moisture meter isn't going to be extremely accurate, but I just wanted to get an idea. Seeing this is just my 2nd year burning,  I assume it will be a few more until I'm really comfortable with eye-ing it up and being able to tell.
> 
> In fact, because of my readings (some was 37%), I am picking up a cord of 3 yr seasoned oak for $50, in order to give my other 3.5 cord some additional time to dry...



$50/cord in MA??  Mind telling me where?  I am seeing only $250!


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## jqgs214

Blowing through the split works but I dont have a moisture meter so I have no clue if it indicates the wood is dry or not.


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## Todd

wxman said:
			
		

> Blowing through the split works but I dont have a moisture meter so I have no clue if it indicates the wood is dry or not.



Must be dry enough. The theory is, if its dry your blowing through the cells of the wood like a straw, so it will produce bubbles on the other end. You won't be able to blow air through if the cells are full of water.


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## thephotohound

got wood? said:
			
		

> ThePhotoHound said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All great comments... Thanks...
> 
> I know that a $25 moisture meter isn't going to be extremely accurate, but I just wanted to get an idea. Seeing this is just my 2nd year burning,  I assume it will be a few more until I'm really comfortable with eye-ing it up and being able to tell.
> 
> In fact, because of my readings (some was 37%), I am picking up a cord of 3 yr seasoned oak for $50, in order to give my other 3.5 cord some additional time to dry...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $50/cord in MA??  Mind telling me where?  I am seeing only $250!
Click to expand...


I guess I was lucky enough to find a guy who happened to have a cord and quit burning wood... Keep in mind, though that I haven't seen the wood yet........


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## jqgs214

Todd said:
			
		

> wxman said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blowing through the split works but I dont have a moisture meter so I have no clue if it indicates the wood is dry or not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Must be dry enough. The theory is, if its dry your blowing through the cells of the wood like a straw, so it will produce bubbles on the other end. You won't be able to blow air through if the cells are full of water.
Click to expand...


But how dry 20%, 29%? I wonder at what % you can start to blow through it.  Ok moisture meter owners please let me know!


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## Bill

All right I'll try it this weekend, but if I get a sliver in my lip I am not going to be happy. Being the safety conscious person I am, I'll put the end of the log in a bucket of water, and jam my air chuck  in it and see if I get bubbles.


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## jqgs214

Ok but record the dryness of the wood with the moisture meter.  If you can blow through it and its 30% I'm screwed


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## Bill

Sounds like a good experiment. I'll drill a hole in the wood, to fit the air chuck into the wood. Otherwise I'll get blow back, instead of air trying to penetrate the wood. I also have a moisture meter, lets check back Monday, I'll post my results.


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## jqgs214

But you air chuck can blow alot harder than I can.  How about going the sanitary route and putting a straw in the hole?


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## babalu87

Compressed air will blow any air out of the tubes in the wood and give you a false "positive" 
I dont know how many PSI I can blow but I am sure it isnt very much and NO I am not going to blow into a tire pressure gauge to see. 

SANITARY?!?!?!
I wood  think your wood pile is fairly clean dang anti-microbial hippies are creating monster virus'


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## Bill

I'll turn the pressure down to 5 lbs.


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## jqgs214

man, do you have lips? you really dont wanna blow into a piece of wood do ya


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## babalu87

I have and have

Wipe it down with a little vinegar if your worried, hell I have probably eaten plenty while cutting trees especially when I have just done the rakers on the chain


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## jqgs214

I tried it last year with the cord I bought from my wod guy.  It made bubbles.  But I have know idea if thats a good measure for dry wood.  If Smokey comes through with a half way decent experiment I'll save the $20.00 on a moisture meter and just blow (I'll leave the rest out.)


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## BrotherBart

Every year when this comes up I get this mental images of hundreds of people going around behind the woodpile where nobody can see them and blowing into the end of a split.

"George! What the hell are you doing"

"Seeing if the wood's dry dear."

"Right. If the cops see you you will be blowing into a Breathalyzer. My mother was right about you!"



BTW: I have tried it before and it works.


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## Harley

If anyone is going to do this experiment (not with the compressor)..... PLEASE take some pictures, and post them.


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## Gooserider

babalu87 said:
			
		

> Compressed air will blow any air out of the tubes in the wood and give you a false "positive"
> I dont know how many PSI I can blow but I am sure it isnt very much and NO I am not going to blow into a tire pressure gauge to see.
> 
> SANITARY?!?!?!
> I wood  think your wood pile is fairly clean dang anti-microbial hippies are creating monster virus'



IIRC my SCUBA training from years back, the human body can suck or blow about 1/2 to 1 PSI of pressure (This is why a 6' long snorkel won't work...)

However the other thought is if you say an aircompressor will blow the moisture out of the tubes, would this be a way to do forced high speed drying?  It would be cool to be able to go from green to ready to burn in 30 seconds or less...  :coolsmirk: 

Gooserider


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## GeeWizMan

Oh my goodness!  This is way too funny!  :lol:  Blowing bubbles to see if the wood is dry - absolutely great!  I am going to give it a try today and test it with my Harbor Freight moisture meter.  I have nothing better to do anyway other than building an ark as it is raining and raining and raining around these parts and I have been chomping at the bit to get out and work the wood.  So, instead of felling, limbing, bucking, splitting, hauling, and stacking, I'll be blowing:  Take a deep breath  :snake:

George


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## elkimmeg

This post could end up in the ash can real quick..  What can one conjure up thinking about blowing  logs?

I know too funny to pass on.  Then the pressure we can  create with our own lips. This is an average?  I know some are more gifted at this than others
 Mick might have an advantage Monica is a proven comodity...

I thiunk there are real unscientific way to tell when the wood is dry enough one can feel the extra weight.  experience looking at a piece and lifting it one can pretty much guess if it is dry enough the color bark falling off weight  check marks ant hiting it against another piece to hear a ring all ways to tell if it is ready.
 the final way is the hissing in the wood stove helps determine your methods.


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## Havlat24

I can see how the blowing trick can work.  Free Water, (water stored in the wood cell cavities) is removed first in the drying process, and the bound water ( water stored in the cell walls) is removed last, when this process starts, it would creates spaces between the cells, in which you could possibily blow through.....although thats a bit of a wierd way of doing it....it would work...in theory..haha


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## Bill

I use to know a gal that had more than one psi, but then again that's another story. I'm not taking a picture of me with a log in my mouth and posting it on the web. But I'll try some wet wood and dry wood and see what happens. One of the considerations is how long is the firewood cut. My 22" logs will differ from a 16" log. But maybe we can gestimate a rule of thumb or is that rule of lip?


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## BrotherBart

THE ANSWER IS BLOWIN' IN THE END (With no apolgies whatsoever to Bob Dylan)

How many years must firewood dry
Before it is ready burn
Yes, 'n', how many months must white oak lay
Before it reaches its turn
Yes, 'n' how many days must Elm splits bask
Before they are up to the task
The answer, my friend, is blowin' in the end
The answer is blowin' in the end.


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## GeeWizMan

Tiny Bubbles  :cheese: 

Tiny bubbles in the wood,
make me happy, make me feel good,
tiny bubbles make me warm all over
with a feeling that I'm gonna love you 'til the end of time.

So here's to the golden moon,
and here's to the silver sea,
and mostly here's a toast to you and me!

It worked!  First I checked the moisture content with my handy-dandy Cen-Tech moisture meter from Harbor Freight and found a freshly split piece of wood to be 15% to 18%.  Then, I applied the liquid soap to one end and blew like the dickens.  
After doing it a couple times tiny bubbles were quite visible.  Next, I took a split that tested out between 27% and 35% (I don't know why they have such a jump at the end of their meter) and I could not get any bubbles to form even though I blew longer and harder. 

I felt like a total goofball doing it    but my wife got a good laugh out of it. :roll: 

George


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## begreen

BrotherBart said:
			
		

> THE ANSWER IS BLOWIN' IN THE END (With no apolgies whatsoever to Bob Dylan)
> 
> How many years must firewood dry
> Before it is ready burn
> Yes, 'n', how many months must white oak lay
> Before it reaches its turn
> Yes, 'n' how many days must Elm splits bask
> Before they are up to the task
> The answer, my friend, is blowin' in the end
> The answer is blowin' in the end.



Excellent! Time to create a Wiki with these KTel fireside classics.


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## Highbeam

GeeWizMan said:
			
		

> Tiny Bubbles  :cheese:
> 
> Tiny bubbles in the wood,
> make me happy, make me feel good,
> tiny bubbles make me warm all over
> with a feeling that I'm gonna love you 'til the end of time.
> 
> So here's to the golden moon,
> and here's to the silver sea,
> and mostly here's a toast to you and me!
> 
> It worked!  First I checked the moisture content with my handy-dandy Cen-Tech moisture meter from Harbor Freight and found a freshly split piece of wood to be 15% to 18%.  Then, I applied the liquid soap to one end and blew like the dickens.
> After doing it a couple times tiny bubbles were quite visible.  Next, I took a split that tested out between 27% and 35% (I don't know why they have such a jump at the end of their meter) and I could not get any bubbles to form even though I blew longer and harder.
> 
> I felt like a total goofball doing it    but my wife got a good laugh out of it. :roll:
> 
> George



I am very impressed. One, that you had the stones to try it and two, that it worked. It might be like a snipe hunt or something but I will have to see it to believe it. If I do grow enough jewels to try this and by some stroke of luck it works then I will have discovered the ultimate party trick. Here ladies, lets have a blowing contest, let me get my wood.


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## jqgs214

Thanks for the info, I know that it works with dry wood.  Just wondering at what moistue level it starts to work.  Can ya try it once on month till that 27-35% wood dries out??  (man i'm too cheap to spend $20.00 buck on a moisture meter but I'm stupid enough to blow on my wood pile to see if its dry) go Figure!


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## Todd

Well, I make bubbles at 20%, and don't at 35%. Can't find any pieces in between those moisture contents. Damn white oak is still too wet and it's a good 1.5 years old split.


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## Bill

I tried the experiment I used two pieces of wood, one 1x6" about 7 inches long, pine board. It had 10.5% moisture in the center. I could not blow through it, so I drilled a 1/4" hole and inch or so deep and used 2 psi and shoved the wood in water. The only air I could see is coming out of the sides about 2" deep by the air chuck. Then I tried a small split, very dry, nothing happened this time, the air just came back out the hole. So I turned up the compressor to 100 psi, it just blew in my face. I say myth busted.


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## BrotherBart

Smokey said:
			
		

> I tried the experiment I used two pieces of wood, one 1x6" about 7 inches long, pine board. It had 10.5% moisture in the center. I could not blow through it, so I drilled a 1/4" hole and inch or so deep and used 2 psi and shoved the wood in water. The only air I could see is coming out of the sides about 2" deep by the air chuck. Then I tried a small split, very dry, nothing happened this time, the air just came back out the hole. So I turned up the compressor to 100 psi, it just blew in my face. I say myth busted.



Morso never said it worked after a board had been mashed flat in a plainer at the mill. Cells could be heard screaming if they listened close enough.

It does work with cord wood but I find that twenty bucks for the moisture meter was cheaper than Chap Stick on a five cord basis. And besides, I am gonna burn what I got no matter what the meter or the blow XXX says. Gotta have heat around here.


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## Gooserider

Smokey said:
			
		

> I tried the experiment I used two pieces of wood, one 1x6" about 7 inches long, pine board. It had 10.5% moisture in the center. I could not blow through it, so I drilled a 1/4" hole and inch or so deep and used 2 psi and shoved the wood in water. The only air I could see is coming out of the sides about 2" deep by the air chuck. Then I tried a small split, very dry, nothing happened this time, the air just came back out the hole. So I turned up the compressor to 100 psi, it just blew in my face. I say myth busted.



Not sure I'd by your test board - I don't see bubbles in either photo, but if the hose is blowing in where it shows in the first photo I would think the grain seems to mostly be coming out the sides near the chuck. not to mention BB's objections.  I would think that the split under test should be something with reasonably straight grain - unless you're a kid, who wants to play with a "Krazy Straw"?

Gooserider


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## GeeWizMan

Well, all I can say is it did work with a regular piece of wood that I grabbed from the wood pile.  My wife saw the bubbles form and I could still see them when I looked at the soaped end of the split.  Regarding the test by Smokey, the pictures look like a piece of plywood was used — don't they use glue and several thin layers to make plywood?  Im my mind that could prevent air from making it through the xylem and phloem cells of the wood.  If I knew how to do pictures I'd take pictures and show you the tiny bubbles that formed.  They really did, I am not just blowing smoke here. :lol: 

George


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## Bill

That was a pine board with the grain, also used a split. My assumption is if you can blow through it when it's dry, an air chuck should easily have bubbles coming out of the bottom like an air-stone in a fish tank. Because this wood was dry it didn't work for me. This doesn't mean it doesn't work for your, in my mind it's not a reliable indication of dryness. I'll stick to my moisture meter.


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## babalu87

How big was the nozzle on the air gun, that may have had something to do with it.
Also, putting the board in a tank means you have to exceed atmospheric pressue and that is more than 2 lbs.

Morso doesnt have that little tip on their website any longer............ they now sell a Morso digital moisture meter


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## Bill

It was a rubber tip, so I could apply plenty of downforce. I also used 100 psi just to see what would happen. Might have alot to do with what kind of wood your testing.


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## woodsie8

Any suggestions on a good moisture guage?


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## fossil

Kim, if you go over to "The Gear" forum on Hearth.com, and do a search for "moisture meter", you'll have a month's worth of reading about meters of all description and folks' experience with them.  Good luck!  Rick


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## woodsie8

Oops, forgot about that other room


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## woodjack

Todd said:
			
		

> Get ready to laugh. Here is another way to see if your wood is ready. I think Babs told us this one awhile back. Take a split and rub some liquid soap on one end, then wrap your lips around the other end and blow. :red: If the wood is dry it will blow bubbles. HA Ha, this actually came from the Morso web site. I know some of you will try it.



I think it's been said here before. Make sure you're on your knees and get as much wood in your mouth as possible when blowing.


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