# Lil chip wood furnace?



## Razorback65739 (Dec 13, 2016)

I'm looking at a old furnace that has "lil chip" on the front door. It's about 3'x4'x4' overall width is about 63 inches with blower and looks like it can accept a 3ft or so log.. I tried to Google the stove but no luck.. all of the controls say dayton so I'm assuming it's a dayton brand stove? Flu looks to be 8" I was wondering where I can find specs like clearences, parts etca I will post the photo I have in a few hours I forgot to mention the house was built late 80s or so


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## begreen (Dec 13, 2016)

Dayton is a Grainger parts brand. The hi/low controls probably came from there.


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## Bad LP (Dec 13, 2016)

Looks like asbestos city.


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## brenndatomu (Dec 13, 2016)

Ruuuun Forest, run!


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## laynes69 (Dec 13, 2016)

Was the house built in the late 1880's....just joking. The unit would have to follow clearances for an unlisted furnace. At least 18" clearances in all directions from combustibles, and I do believe 18" for the first few feet of ducting, then stepping down in a couple more stages. What are you looking to heat? That will be a wood eater for sure, and a creosote machine. I wouldn't even think about purchasing it without a through inspection.


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## Razorback65739 (Dec 13, 2016)

The unit is actually in much better shape than the picture, it has mostly surface rust, grates looked good and didn't look like it got much use. I looked at in person last night. The Lyndale stove manufacturer is local here (about 10 miles from house) and thinking it could be that? It's to heat our house, about 2300sqft upstairs and will be in a 20x28 basement with poured Concrete walls. We have electric that Is outrageous in the winter this will come with everything but the class a pipe. Has intake, plenum thermostat, blower etc.


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## begreen (Dec 13, 2016)

Have you considered getting a new unit as an alternative?


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## Razorback65739 (Dec 13, 2016)

I looked at them, liked the daka (liked the water heater option) and a few other brands it's taken me 3 years to talk my wife into even considering one of these and she is the one that told me about this one.. the wood is not much of an issue as I have 90+ acres to get wood from. So it's basically free.. only reason guy is selling is because he is going to build a craft room where it is..and he has propane as supplemental heat


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## brenndatomu (Dec 13, 2016)

You'd have to pay me to take that thing to the dump let alone spend the time, money and labor it'll take to install it in your home. Any furnace that is either so old, or rare (read: unpopular) that a google search has zero hits on it...I'm passing on it.
No setup or operational instructions, no dealer or factory tech support, no parts available other than what you can figure out how to retrofit. IMO you have a very high chance of hearing "I told you a wood burner was a bad idea" from your wife here.
If you have high $ electric heat and 90 acres of woods to cut from, then there is no reason to not buy something worth having. There are lots of good options out there that will serve you well for many years to come, and likely pay for themselves in the first year or two...in other words, this _is_ worth doing right.
The Daka would be a much better choice than this old behemoth, but, just to be clear, the Daka is one of the cheapest wood furnaces out there for a reason...it will cut your heat bill though.
My two cents...


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## Razorback65739 (Dec 14, 2016)

I originally showed her a firechief 700 at the same price.. but the side had a black spot that worried her.. it didn't have any ductwork though I'll upload a pic to see if it's normal or something that was overheated..


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## Fred61 (Dec 14, 2016)

Cheeping out will only guarantee that you will be doing it twice. If you have electric heat you could install the highest end furnace and still be way ahead in 2 or 3 years.
By the way, wood from your own woodlot isn't free but it beats buying a "cord" of wood and having it stack at two thirds of a cord which is normal around here.


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## brenndatomu (Dec 14, 2016)

Razorback65739 said:


> I originally showed her a firechief 700 at the same price.. but the side had a black spot that worried her.. it didn't have any ductwork though I'll upload a pic to see if it's normal or something that was overheated..


What is the price by the way? FC700 is supposed to be a decent unit...still old school, but at least its still made, and can find documents and parts for 'em.
Black spot on the side sounds like it was run pretty hard...may be OK still, maybe not. Have a pic of it?


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## Razorback65739 (Dec 14, 2016)

Here is the side. They both are asking 600


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## brenndatomu (Dec 14, 2016)

Is the high temp black paint on the front of that FC burnt white too? It does look like its been run hard...would have to do a thorough on-site inspection to tell if its junk or not though.
No way I'd spend that $ for the Lil Chip...FYI, around here you can find a decent condition wood furnace for that price if you keep your eyes peeled for a while...


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## Razorback65739 (Dec 14, 2016)

brenndatomu said:


> What is the price by the way? FC700 is supposed to be a decent unit...still old school, but at least its still made, and can find documents and parts for 'em.
> Black spot on the side sounds like it was run pretty hard...may be OK still, maybe not. Have a pic of it?








I waited to worst time of year to get one..


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## Razorback65739 (Dec 14, 2016)

Anyone know anything about a Yukon eagle? 112k btu


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## brenndatomu (Dec 14, 2016)

Razorback65739 said:


> View attachment 190351
> 
> 
> I waited to worst time of year to get one..


Well, yes and no. There will probably be more for sale this time of the year, just because people know to sell one in the summer likely means they will have to "give" it away...but if you can find what you want in the summertime then your buying power will be stronger.

That machine is no pristine queen, it would definitely require a thorough going over, inside and out to make sure it is not rusted out, cracked, etc. Heck, I think I would want to take a screwdriver and remove the sheet metal jacket to be able to spy even the beginnings of any small cracks which could be hard to see from inside the firebox.
Even if it were in usable condition I don't think I'd pay that price for it unless it comes with 20' of class A chimney or something (assuming you need it...or would want to fool around with re-selling it)
The other possibility is that the pictures make it look worse than it is...my Yukon wood/oil furnace was that way, it had very minor surface rust that looked bad in the pics...but turned out to be nothing and it was more than worth the long trip to go get it. But I grilled the guy and his maintenance man about it before deciding to go look at it, and I was 99% sure it was going to be everything I was told it was over the phone once I seen it in person.

Anyways, tell us more about your situation. Size, age and style of your house, insulation level, and is there an existing chimney worthy of being used for a wood burner? If so, flue size and height, interior or exterior, masonry or manufactured? You have existing ductwork to tie into?
Is it possible that a regular ole wood stove would do the job? Lots of people are able to comfortably heat or at least supplement their heat with just a well placed wood stove.
Also, what's your budget on this?
Ever heat with wood before?


Razorback65739 said:


> Anyone know anything about a Yukon eagle? 112k btu


Take a close look at my avatar and sig line...


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## Razorback65739 (Dec 15, 2016)

The house is 1979ish I did another r19 blow in this summer, so it should be around r38-40. It's a ranch style single story 2300sqft finished 500 basement/garage which is where I will put furnace have central heat/air with ductwork in attic.  Put in new 4years ago when the hvac was done.  2x4 walls, and every wall looks like they were insulated with r13 . The summer bill for ac is about a quarter what the winter electric bill is, so I wanted to supplement to each room. The wood stove inside house is a no go, wife has asthma and she said it bothers her.  No mason chimney, will have to use class a basement is about 9ft tall bedroom I planned on piping it through is 8 and probably 3ft to top of roof.  Tight budget due to baby coming in February, my grandmother had wood and I've always liked it.  

I found a new hotblast 1557 I think is the model for 750 about 3 hours away.  There is a Yukon eagle used about 3 hrs away for 1k with a half-assed shed but that's 8" flu (same as Lil chip) I think and nobody stocks it here. I've seen a Gemini and a few others that are very scary looks like they are 50 years old


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## S.Whiplash (Dec 15, 2016)

Other than the Kuuma wood furnaces you can get a brand new wood furnace for $2,000-$4,000.  Why mess around with an old piece of junk built by a company that no longer exists?


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## brenndatomu (Dec 15, 2016)

Razorback65739 said:


> The house is 1979ish I did another r19 blow in this summer, so it should be around r38-40. It's a ranch style single story 2300sqft finished 500 basement/garage which is where I will put furnace have central heat/air with ductwork in attic.  Put in new 4years ago when the hvac was done.  2x4 walls, and every wall looks like they were insulated with r13 . The summer bill for ac is about a quarter what the winter electric bill is, so I wanted to supplement to each room. The wood stove inside house is a no go, wife has asthma and she said it bothers her.  No mason chimney, will have to use class a basement is about 9ft tall bedroom I planned on piping it through is 8 and probably 3ft to top of roof.  Tight budget due to baby coming in February, my grandmother had wood and I've always liked it.
> 
> I found a new hotblast 1557 I think is the model for 750 about 3 hours away.  There is a Yukon eagle used about 3 hrs away for 1k with a half-assed shed but that's 8" flu (same as Lil chip) I think and nobody stocks it here. I've seen a Gemini and a few others that are very scary looks like they are 50 years old


The first thing that sticks out to me here is the duct work in the attic. It very likely will not meet code/standards for heating with wood as far as clearance to combustibles...especially with one of these old furnaces...they tend to run hot! Some of the newer more efficient wood furnaces run with cooler duct temps, but still have the same clearance requirements. Those Hot Blast furnaces are considered by most to be big box store crap...they will make some heat, but you will need LOTS of wood! The factory blowers were junk and the dampers often don't work reliably.
That Yukon is a much better machine for sure...they have a 30 year warranty! Still old school technology more or less, but they were way ahead of their time until recently. You can find pretty decent Yukon Huskys around here for $1K if you look around a bit...I actually paid much less for mine.
If you want to stay in the $700 range, I'd wait for Menards (you have those there, no?) to put the Daka on sale and then get that before I'd spend that much on a used Hot Blast.
FYI, if you need to install a class A chimney, again, go to Menards. They have the best prices on that, by a mile!
Still need to check on those duct clearances first though...


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## Razorback65739 (Dec 16, 2016)

My next question is ducting.. I can duct it into the bottom of my hvac unit, filter box is on bottom and I can access from below.. would that work? And would the hvac blow help pull heat? Or would I be better off bypassing that and going into the main distrubition box and having it do that way? 

The daka is on sale for 755. With tax and another 100 off for a rebate.. is that a good deal?


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## brenndatomu (Dec 16, 2016)

Its hard to understand exactly what you are dealing with there...a drawing or pics would help.
Bottom line is that the shortest/simplest duct run is the best. It may be easier/better to run new ducts separately just for the wood furnace...maybe one or two to each end of the house...that's how I did it at my sisters house, two runs upstairs with their own registers and two to basement bedrooms. Its best to have the duct runs always running uphill so they will gravity flow if the power fails. That's very hard to do with attic HVAC


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## brenndatomu (Dec 17, 2016)

Razorback65739 said:


> The daka is on sale for 755. With tax and another 100 off for a rebate.. is that a good deal?


I would have said yes...until I looked at our local store. Maybe your store would price match...or maybe this deal will be coming your way soon too. Here it is.






	

		
			
		

		
	
  The Daka is nothing fancy but I would buy this way before spending money on that lil chip heater


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## Razorback65739 (Dec 17, 2016)

I will draw a diagram in a bit of how I planned to. The Yukon sold yesterday  

The daka is the same price here, 699 then the 100$ rebate. Down here I have not seen stove pipe be that much cheaper at menards.. I see their prices daily and we are both very close if not cheaper.


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## Razorback65739 (Dec 17, 2016)

I just bought a new daka...


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## Fred61 (Dec 17, 2016)

Congrats


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## maple1 (Dec 17, 2016)

I think I would pay heed to Bren's suggestion to just run some new shorter separate ducting for the Daka, at least for this winter. The concept of running hot air into an unheated attic always boggled my mind a bit - plus straight up is a very good thing to strive for for a wood furnace - things get hot when the power goes out & the distribution fan stops cooling it.

Good luck!!


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## S.Whiplash (Dec 17, 2016)

Razorback65739 said:


> I just bought a new daka...



Seems like a good price for a new wood furnace, make sure it has enough output to meet your heat-load before you install it.


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## brenndatomu (Dec 18, 2016)

S.Whiplash said:


> Seems like a good price for a new wood furnace, make sure it has enough output to meet your heat-load before you install it.


Even if it doesn't have enough output on the coldest day of the year, it will still take a _huge_ bite out of their electric heat bill


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## Razorback65739 (Dec 18, 2016)

Here is a rough sketch of house.. side and top view. Only have a half/third basement under neath so that is my biggest challenge I was going to put the stove in back corner first but had too far to run to main heater.  So I'm thinking of putting it on the wall closest to the heater then try to pipe flu straight up the wall and enclose it with type x and steel studs.  With double wall class a. I think that's the most direct way to do it.]


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## Lcback (Dec 18, 2016)

Good choice getting the daka over the old burn out or the crappy green dragon from TSC. 
I would also  mention that if you buy shaker grates you can burn soft coal in it. Most here don't like coal much. But when you can get a ton of something for $100 and do zero work to it it makes all the time us wood enthusiast spend seem silly. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## brenndatomu (Dec 18, 2016)

So you are thinking of going straight up through the house for the chimney? That's the best way if you can do it. You said you will enclose it with steel studs and "type X"? I'm not familiar, what's type x?
What are you thinking for ducts work? I think running a couple separate ducts with their own registers is gonna be the way to go for you...


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## Razorback65739 (Dec 18, 2016)

Type x Is fire resistant drywall 5/8 think. Alof of the local codes use doubles 5/8 for a fire break in commercial building


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## brenndatomu (Dec 18, 2016)

As long as you maintain the 2" (minimum) clearance you can use standard drywall and studs, just fyi


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## Razorback65739 (Dec 18, 2016)

I'm weary on the separate duct/vents because our bedroom is a ways away from the heater would be on other side of house and not easily accessible from the crawl space. I can much easier run it in direct to the main trunk of the primary unit and use that fan to distribute. I think if I can get it situated right in the basement I can vent the flue straight up with class a, and keep the pipe/box hidden away, and have semi direct way to run vent. it says use the barometric draft.. do I have to use the data brand or can I use the volgen...  Would there be any benefit to a mortar chimney?


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## brenndatomu (Dec 18, 2016)

It may work for you with tying into the main ducts, but I am afraid it may disappoint you. Plus, if the power goes out you'll have a heat trap, and the furnace could go into meltdown mode.That's why wood furnaces need to always have rise on the (duct) runs, so the heat can gravity flow if needed (plus it will just work better too)
Maybe you can do both, tie into the main line and run a couple independent too...
As far as the baro, use a Fields brand http://www.supplyhouse.com/Field-Controls-6-RC-6-Draft-Regulator-for-Wood-Oil-or-Coal
A class A chimney is better than a mortar one...a straight up class A (through the house) is the best of all


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## Razorback65739 (Dec 21, 2016)

The location I want to put it has inside (between joists) of 10.5 inches.. I will be using 6" double wall my minimum is 12" rigjt? Anyway I can get away with what I have now?


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## brenndatomu (Dec 21, 2016)

Razorback65739 said:


> The location I want to put it has inside (between joists) of 10.5 inches.. I will be using 6" double wall my minimum is 12" rigjt? Anyway I can get away with what I have now?


You talkin about class A double wall? Yes, you need 12 inches minimum for that....sounds like you will need to box out the framing


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## Razorback65739 (Dec 21, 2016)

Part of my basement is 12" oc the other is 16.. of course I picked the 12" oc part.. I was afraid I was going to have to box it out..


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## Razorback65739 (Dec 29, 2016)

I plan on starting the install this weekend I bought my class a double wall for about 56$ a 3ft piece at lowes. (Menard had it on sale for 65$ then I had a coupon for 11%) and I got the install kit for 150$ and some misc black pipe. I ordered the data flu damper because I didn't want to run into any warrant issues later for not using their specified one.  I know you have to use the 8" galvanized ductwork for at least the first part, but can I use the flex 20 or 30 ft down the line? Or does it all have to be ridgid?

Also I may upgrade to the 1600cfm variable speed blower


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## Razorback65739 (Dec 29, 2016)

I found the large blower model data uses.. what is the best place to price Dayton blowers?


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## Bad LP (Dec 29, 2016)

Razorback65739 said:


> I found the large blower model data uses.. what is the best place to price Dayton blowers?


Grainger is the retailer of Dayton.

wwwGrainger.com


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## STIHLY DAN (Dec 29, 2016)

Razorback65739 said:


> The location I want to put it has inside (between joists) of 10.5 inches.. I will be using 6" double wall my minimum is 12" rigjt? Anyway I can get away with what I have now?



Double wall or insulated double wall? class A insulated double wall is only 1 inch clearance.


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## brenndatomu (Dec 29, 2016)

STIHLY DAN said:


> Double wall or insulated double wall? class A insulated double wall is only 1 inch clearance.


Better double check that one...its 2" minimum clearance on class A pipe, 6" for double wall stove pipe.


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## Lcback (Dec 29, 2016)

brenndatomu said:


> Better double check that one...its 2" minimum clearance on class A pipe, 6" for double wall stove pipe.



That's what I was thinking. Only because my triple wall pipe still has the stickers on it that's say 2" minimum. It is impressive stuff though as hot as I have run my chimney that outside pipe always feels colder then the air when you touch it. It is 10" though for a 6" ID


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## brenndatomu (Dec 30, 2016)

Razorback65739 said:


> I know you have to use the 8" galvanized ductwork for at least the first part, but can I use the flex 20 or 30 ft down the line? Or does it all have to be ridgid?


Its your house so obviously you can do as you please...but code is for all metal supply ducts...myself, I would follow that rule. If the power goes out right after you load the firebox, you'll be shocked how hot things get, and fast. And that's another reason to do the ductwork right, if you always keep some rise on your runs then the heat can gravity flow during a power outage. Much less fire risk and it will keep your house from freezing up...


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## STIHLY DAN (Dec 30, 2016)

Lost power last night actually. Of course it happened an hour after loading for the night, so it was at its hottest point.  Thankfully, I designed and sized the ductwork for this exact purpose. Pulled the air filters and had heat all night throughout the house, No over heating of the unit or anything. 7 hours powerless.


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## STIHLY DAN (Dec 30, 2016)

brenndatomu said:


> Better double check that one...its 2" minimum clearance on class A pipe, 6" for double wall stove pipe.



You are correct. it's 2 not 1.


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## Razorback65739 (Jan 1, 2017)

Are there any clearences required on the warm air ductwork? First 4 or so feet will be in open before going into the floor joist I'm about to get photos and do a drawing to see if it works


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## Razorback65739 (Jan 1, 2017)

The second photo is for sizing/layout to see what is where.  First photo is placement. I ended up taking out this ugly ugly domed dark brown shower and putting it where it was. Planned on taking it out anyway but gave good reason.. found a huge rat/squirrel condo under the tubs.  I will be moving a toilet and some other plumbing to make it work but worth it I think still have to box and frame the joists below as well. Lot of work but it's best location.  I planned on running the air duct slightly angled but straight up and then elbow over to main distrubition. So 45 degree off stove then 4ft run. 45degree (will be straight vertical then) to ceiling 8ft run then elbow to 10-12 ft to existing heater..


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## STIHLY DAN (Jan 1, 2017)

Razorback65739 said:


> Are there any clearences required on the warm air ductwork? First 4 or so feet will be in open before going into the floor joist I'm about to get photos and do a drawing to see if it works



NFPA 54 says 6 inches for the first 6 ft, or 90* turn, then 1 inch after that


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## Razorback65739 (Jan 2, 2017)

Should I separate the walls between the flu and the warm air vents? Or would all be in the same wall cavity ok? The interior of the wall will be metal studs and 5/8 type x drywall just as extra measure


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## brenndatomu (Jan 2, 2017)

@STIHLY DAN  can maybe say what the code would be on that...I'd keep 'em separate just as a precaution, if something crazy happened you wouldn't want the duct sucking up a bunch of smoke,etc.


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## STIHLY DAN (Jan 2, 2017)

Razorback65739 said:


> Should I separate the walls between the flu and the warm air vents? Or would all be in the same wall cavity ok? The interior of the wall will be metal studs and 5/8 type x drywall just as extra measure



I see no reason to. the flue is sealed and the warm air vents are sealed. As long as clearances are met, thats all that matters.


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## Razorback65739 (Jan 4, 2017)

Menards/daka pushed my ship date for draft regulator out another week was 1/3 now 1/10 but no guarantee. I emailed daka on warranty if I use a non daka damper and they said it does not have to be their brand, hopefully Menards will refund my money and not charge a restocking fee so I can just go get the stock volgenzang one for 12 bucks cheaper.  I hope to have it all installed this weekend


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## brenndatomu (Jan 4, 2017)

This one is hard to beat for the money...quality product, and these guys ship quick. Also, this unit comes with the mounting collar to mount it directly on the pipe, no tee needed. http://www.supplyhouse.com/Field-Controls-6-RC-6-Draft-Regulator-for-Wood-Oil-or-Coal
Someone here a couple years ago was having issues with their furnace...and I can't remember exactly what was going on, but they had a VZ baro and I believe things improved after getting rid of it and buying a Fields baro...the OEM Baro on many quality wood and coal furnaces.
Maybe someone else here will recall the thread that I am thinking of...


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## garmford (Jan 4, 2017)

Don't buy the VZ! I had one and now have the Fields. Worlds difference. Spend the $12 more and get a quality baro.


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## Razorback65739 (Jan 4, 2017)

You convinced me, I ordered the fields should get it friday. Can I install it on a tee or is that not an option?


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## Razorback65739 (Jan 4, 2017)

To tie into the plenum.. is this a good option?


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## brenndatomu (Jan 4, 2017)

Razorback65739 said:


> Can I install it on a tee or is that not an option?


Yes you can.


Razorback65739 said:


> To tie into the plenum.. is this a good option?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Should work


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## STIHLY DAN (Jan 4, 2017)

It is. I like the ones with a gasket that you just screw to the ductwork better.


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## Razorback65739 (Jan 8, 2017)

I got the chimney all installed, I was close, needed 5 3ft pieces and a 2 ft to clear roof got the fields installed on a tee and all of the chimney ran (minus last piece I have to change out for a 2ft) I will be doing my warm air differently than I originally was going to, more direct route.  Shorter run.  The front draft Control bracket looks like it's not drilled right? The holes aren't lining up with plate behind it.. I'll get a photo tomorrow.  I redid the rest of my plumbing finally switching over to pex frim cpvc and relocating 2 drink to get the flu to work properly.. here is a picture with basement setup


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## maple1 (Jan 8, 2017)

I think I'd put a clean out T on the furnace outlet - rather than the elbow.


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## brenndatomu (Jan 8, 2017)

maple1 said:


> I think I'd put a clean out T on the furnace outlet - rather than the elbow.


Yup, easier to clean the chimney and provides a "drip leg" for soot, etc.


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## garmford (Jan 9, 2017)

You may want to redo the opening you made for the chimney thru the floor. It should really be framed with 2X material and use joist hangers at the connections. Not sure if you're getting an inspection but if you are you will not pass.


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## brenndatomu (Jan 9, 2017)

garmford said:


> It should really be framed with 2X material and use joist hangers at the connections.


I get the joist hangers, but why would you ever box out your floor joist with 2x4s? 
Probably does need a radiation shield wherever it goes through framing though...


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## garmford (Jan 9, 2017)

I said 2X material. Not sure if those joists are 2X10's or 12's. The cross members that Razor is using as headers do not look like a 2X. They appear skinnier. Just easier to fix now than after everything is hooked up. 
No need for a heat shield if the rough opening is the correct size and the support box was installed correctly.


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## Razorback65739 (Jan 9, 2017)

I Used 2x8 which is the same as the floor joists it has 2" + all the way around. Just no joist hangers its nailed through the outside 2x


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## garmford (Jan 9, 2017)

My apologies. The boards that are perpidicular to the joists look thinner than 1.5", must be from the angle of the photo. If it's the same as the joists then all is good. 
Years ago carpenters made openings like that and never used joist hangers, probably because they weren't created yet. By today's standards there should be hangers. I don't know how long or how much weight the joist that you cut is carrying but it could start to sag over time. I also understand you'd have to remove your entire chimney to do add the hangers. 
To avoid removing the chimney, you could probably get away with these on your header. (Look at picture)

Then put a joist hanger on the joist. 
I would do this as a minimum. 

I'm not nit picking, there's nothing worse that finishing a project then having regrets that you could have done something better.


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## Razorback65739 (Jan 9, 2017)

The basement span is about 17ft with one large support beam running lateral to the concrete wall in about the middle. Theread is just open floor above where I cut. The 2x8 are also about 12" oc which is why I had to move it over to get everything to fit.


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## brenndatomu (Jan 9, 2017)

garmford said:


> I said 2X material.


Ooops, sorry, I guess you did say 2X...looking at it again I don't know how I read 2x4 into it!?


garmford said:


> No need for a heat shield if the rough opening is the correct size and the support box was installed correctly.


As I understand it, you hafta have 2" minimum no matter what...so what are the shields for then? I just put a new Selkirk/Supervent chimney up at my inlaws new house so I have been reading their manuals pretty carefully...although they are a bit hard to understand sometimes...my understanding is that where ever the chimney passes through framework (2" clearance) there was to be an insulation or radiation shield...


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## garmford (Jan 9, 2017)

No worries, I often these posts and think wtf! Then I re-read and finally understand what had been written. 

I'll start by saying I'm no chimney expert. 
The pipe need to be 2" away from any combustibles. 
Now the support box I used requires an 14 1/2" rough opening and the support box is 14 1/4".  The support box acts as a shield even if you're using a pipe larger than 6". Once you leave the support box then you must maintain the 2" clearance. I see that they do make shields but I would check you local ordinances before using them. I personally would only use the shields as a last resort. 

In my application I used the support box at the floor to transition from stove pipe to chimney. Then at the ceiling I used a fire stop with radiation/insulation shield. My roof is made of trusses 2' on center so it was clear sailing from there. The support box and fire stop required the same R.O.  I used Simpson Dura vent products including the 6" double wall isulated chimney. Very user friendly.


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## Razorback65739 (Jan 10, 2017)

Shouldn't these holes lineup?


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## brenndatomu (Jan 10, 2017)

Razorback65739 said:


> Shouldn't these holes lineup?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah, assuming that nothing can be "tweaked" (can it?) to make it line up, then yeah, they missed big time!


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## maple1 (Jan 10, 2017)

What is that? Will it spread so the holes line up?


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## Razorback65739 (Jan 10, 2017)

If I press firmly it spreads and may match the holes.. may not of spread completely when they formed it? I have to install it first.. and it's the draft regulator.


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## Razorback65739 (Jan 16, 2017)

I got it all together, ductwork installed and it did what I was afraid it would.. not strong enough for all the ducts I have in the house. So the way I set it up, I did in case it happened. So I can just put registers in the floor in the rooms and heat that way.. ..so should I run 8" all the way or do I need to cut down to 6" halfway or something on the long run?


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## brenndatomu (Jan 16, 2017)

My ducts are also too numerous/long/large to work right with out closing the registers a bit to balance things out...have you tried that?
If you hafta run separate (probably not a bad idea anyways...you can set proper clearances and run/rise that way) I think you want to run as big as you can as far as you can...and then run 6" branches to the registers.


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## Razorback65739 (Jan 16, 2017)

I've decided I'm just going to run 8" (just need another 25 or so ft) to 2 or 3 registers which is the longest run I have. And the coldest and furthest room in house (our master bedroom) and branch one or two times in living room then other half of house I can supply with the other side of ductwork to sons room, kitchen, spare bedroom and bathroom. That will be easiest due to it being the basement.. other side is tight crawlspace which I did not want to go back under.


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## TomDar (Nov 30, 2020)

Razorback65739 said:


> I'm looking at a old furnace that has "lil chip" on the front door. It's about 3'x4'x4' overall width is about 63 inches with blower and looks like it can accept a 3ft or so log.. I tried to Google the stove but no luck.. all of the controls say dayton so I'm assuming it's a dayton brand stove? Flu looks to be 8" I was wondering where I can find specs like clearences, parts etca I will post the photo I have in a few hours I forgot to mention the house was built late 80s or so
> 
> View attachment 190193


Just took one out of the house. LOVED IT To old to chop wood anymore but would get a 3500 sf home to 89 deg in the dead of winter. In the teens outside. Wish they still made them.


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