# I need a good chainsaw



## Benchwrench (Oct 20, 2012)

how do I pick which chainsaw to buy?
I have a small cheezy 16" 32cc. "Craftsman" branded (McCulloch/ Poulan) chainsaw, but I need a "real" saw that is just a bit more powerful as I am always "massaging" the thing to cut.
 I am looking for a "all around, use all the time" type of chainsaw.

I live in Stihl country but I'm not sure they're better than Husky's, I just want a real good professional mid-size saw that can be used most of the day for bucking and limbing.

Anything come to mind? thanks.


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## WellSeasoned (Oct 20, 2012)

I have a stihl small ms 180, only 16" bar and it cuts everything no problem. I am searching to for a larger saw, and it will be a stihl. If you have a stihl dealer nearby, you'll get way better service than buying at a large box store imho. Good luck


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## bogydave (Oct 20, 2012)

Price target?
How much cutting per year?
60cc is considered an all around mid size saw.
I like a 20" bar for reach & decent sized logs.

My top choice now are not cheap:

MS362, 59cc, 4.6 bhp, 13 lbs
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/professional-saws/ms362/

Husq 562XP: 59.8 cc, 4.7 bhp, 12.5 lbs
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/products/professional-chainsaws/562-xp/#specifications


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## JOHN BOY (Oct 20, 2012)

You can't go wrong with the ms260 50 something cc's saw very good power to weight ratio. Light enough to use for all day limbing and big enough power to take down 20inch plus diameter trees. If you got the cash i'd look for the tried and true proven Ms 361 . One of stihls best midsized saws , will do it all.

If your looking at husky the 346xp cant be beat. for a 50 cc's saw. The 372xp is a tried and true workhorse.
I'am a husky saw guy , to me they have a better vibration set-up and just flat out rev higher and faster. Just my .002 cents and to each his own
Both great saws. Close dealer service is a plus !
 Gotta ask yourself to how much wood your gonna be cutting and how long do you really want to take to do the job bucking and limbing.


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## f3cbboy (Oct 20, 2012)

ms 250 is a great saw. 16" or 18" bar.  They are light and very easy to use.


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## DexterDay (Oct 20, 2012)

bogydave said:


> Price target?
> How much cutting per year?
> 60cc is considered an all around mid size saw.
> I like a 20" bar for reach & decent sized logs.
> ...



I agree with BogeyDave...

Both are at 59 cc's and both Pro saws. Although its gonna cost you a little under $700 (MS362) or a little over $700 (562XP). But both saws are a good mid range saw. More than the average firewood cutter will ever need.


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## HittinSteel (Oct 21, 2012)

If an 18" bar is enough, get a 261, 346XP or 550XP.

If you need a 20" bar then get a 362 or 562XP.


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## onetracker (Oct 21, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> I agree with BogeyDave...
> 
> Both are at 59 cc's and both Pro saws. Although its gonna cost you a little under $700 (MS362) or a little over $700 (562XP). But both saws are a good mid range saw. More than the average firewood cutter will ever need.


 
agreed.

these will be lifetime investments. spend the $$$ now and never look back.


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## Butcher (Oct 21, 2012)

f3cbboy said:


> ms 250 is a great saw. 16" or 18" bar. They are light and very easy to use.


 +1


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## Chuck Pearson (Oct 21, 2012)

f3cbboy said:


> ms 250 is a great saw. 16" or 18" bar. They are light and very easy to use.


+1


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## thewoodlands (Oct 21, 2012)

Benchwrench said:


> how do I pick which chainsaw to buy?
> I have a small cheezy 16" 32cc. "Craftsman" branded (McCulloch/ Poulan) chainsaw, but I need a "real" saw that is just a bit more powerful as I am always "massaging" the thing to cut.
> I am looking for a "all around, use all the time" type of chainsaw.
> 
> ...


My first real saw was the Stihl 310, the second saw I bought is the Stihl 390 which I use most of the time.
zap


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## corey21 (Oct 21, 2012)

I have the stihl ms 290 farm boss 18 inch bar it is a great saw.


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## thewoodlands (Oct 21, 2012)

Benchwrench said:


> how do I pick which chainsaw to buy?
> I have a small cheezy 16" 32cc. "Craftsman" branded (McCulloch/ Poulan) chainsaw, but I need a "real" saw that is just a bit more powerful as I am always "massaging" the thing to cut.
> I am looking for a "all around, use all the time" type of chainsaw.
> 
> ...


I'm not sure what is wrong with this, looks like a small crack but it might be worth checking out.
http://watertown.craigslist.org/tls/3350417464.html
zap


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## TreePointer (Oct 21, 2012)

You stated that you want to use it "all day."  That means you want a fast cutter with good antivibration.  Go with the modern pro saws that have been mentioned.  Stay away from teh 250 & 290; they are not bad saws, but they don't fit your criteria.


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## FireBones (Oct 21, 2012)

I was in the same boat a few weeks ago. I got a new Stihl 362 and I love it......I'm a newbie it's all the saw I need


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## Leslielou (Oct 21, 2012)

We were just saw shopping and ended up with a Husky 562xp. Seems like it will serve us well.


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## MasterMech (Oct 22, 2012)

zap said:


> I'm not sure what is wrong with this, looks like a small crack but it might be worth checking out.
> http://watertown.craigslist.org/tls/3350417464.html
> zap


 
Nothing wrong with it by my eye.  That "crack" is just the edge of the starter housing meeting the main chassis case.


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## MasterMech (Oct 22, 2012)

Benchwrench said:


> how do I pick which chainsaw to buy?
> I have a small cheezy 16" 32cc. "Craftsman" branded (McCulloch/ Poulan) chainsaw, but I need a "real" saw that is just a bit more powerful as I am always "massaging" the thing to cut.
> I am looking for a "all around, use all the time" type of chainsaw.
> 
> ...


 
Actually sounds like your having chain issues (dull chain, improperly sharpened, etc.) more so than saw issues. 

More info please, your gonna get recommendations all the way from the MS261/346XP all the way up to an MS460/372XP based on that post. Are you looking to spend $500, $600, $700+? You cut 12" and under mostly or do you play in 36"+ trunks all day?

If you're looking for "just a bit more powerful" than the Craftsman then I'd look at a Stihl MS250. Not considered a "pro grade" saw but if you cut 18" logs or less most of the time, it's a helluva lotta saw for $300 that is backed by one of the best names out there.

http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms250/

If you're really looking to get into a professional grade saw then like I said, we need more info.


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## StihlHead (Oct 22, 2012)

In the smaller 35cc size I would recommend a Stihl MS 211.The MS 211 is fine stock, and is lighter and has a tad more power than the MS 210 it replaced. It is for cutting down smaller trees, up to about a foot or so in diameter, and for limbing. They will run a 14 or 16 inch picco bar just fine. If you want a larger/cheaper non-pro option that will run a 18-20 inch bar all day I would recommend the earlier model MS 310. Then do a mild muffler and carb mod, and put a rim drive on it. They are good saws, have lower vibration than the 290 or the 390, and with the light mod will have the same power as a stock 390 and more power than any of the new 291/310/391 saws (and be lighter than any of those). You can find them used for around $300.  

If you want a smaller 50cc pro saw and want to spend a lot more money, the Husky 346xp is a good saw, but it has an outboard clutch. The Stihl MS 260 or 261 are good saws as well. But for that kind of money IMO you are better off buying a used 60cc pro Stihl MS 361 or a new MS 362, or a Husky 562xp. These are all great saws, and will run all day and all night and all the next day, etc. I like my 361s the best of all the saws I have owned. It is a great all around saw and I run 20 and 25 inch bars on them. You can cut anything with these saws, and they will last a lifetime if you take care of them.


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## Backroads (Oct 22, 2012)

zap said:


> I'm not sure what is wrong with this, looks like a small crack but it might be worth checking out.
> http://watertown.craigslist.org/tls/3350417464.html
> zap


 
Never had gas in it? What kind of place did he buy that from?? My Stihl dealer runs EVERY saw he sells to make sure it's right before it walks out the door.


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## thewoodlands (Oct 22, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Nothing wrong with it by my eye. That "crack" is just the edge of the starter housing meeting the main chassis case.


 Stopped in our local shop(looked at a 391) this morning, you're correct it's not a crack.

zap


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## nate379 (Oct 22, 2012)

I did notice running the same chains and bar (I just swapped them) from my MS290 to my MS460 that I can run the 460 for a while longer on a dulling chain. Faster chain speed and it's hard to bog it down.



MasterMech said:


> Actually sounds like your having chain issues (dull chain, improperly sharpened, etc.) more so than saw issues.


 
OP... between the Stihl or Husky... it's gonna be Chev vs Ford. 6 of one, 1/2 a dozen of the other


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## EatenByLimestone (Oct 22, 2012)

I didn't see what size tree you're planning to be cutting.  

That will determine bar size and bar size will determine engine size.  Then you can choose pro or midrange based on what you want to pay and the volume you want to cut. 

I was clearing pasture with a guy with a Husky 562xp.  I offered to let him try out my 290 with a chisel chain on it.  He was leery at first being a Husky guy, but I told him I wouldn't tell anybody he touched a Stihl.  He was impressed, not because the 290 was a better saw, but because the setup of 16" bar and chisel chain was right for the size engine and wood we were cutting. 

I also have a 20" bar and only have a green chain for that.  I don't use the 20" much. 

I'd pick the best dealer around you to purchase from.  If you're in a pickle I wouldn't want to have to deal with the box stores.  A trip to the pellet board will tell you how much dealers like dealing with box store merchendise. 

Matt


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## Benchwrench (Oct 22, 2012)

Thanks for the feedback guys, we just got back from traveling over this weekend checking out the tree colors this time the season has to offer so I haven't had a chance yet to really read  and "soak in" what all you guys have offered/ mentioned above.
I also understand that a person can't just ask "what saw do I buy?" and have just one saw will fill the needs of all tree cutting senarios. 
That being said I can share this: I have access to a Stihl 026 and 029 from my neighbor. This gives me an idea what Stihl has to offer.
The reason why I said I have to "Massage" the thing to cut is because I think it's a "wanna be" saw. It's got half the CC's (32) needed AND has one of those "anti-kick back" low profile chains on it.I've dubbed it a "womans saw" as it's got no "cojones". Now for limbing, it's great. It's just not a professional saw by any means.
I am cutting hardwoods such as elm, black walnut, ash, and anything else I can burn. 
My neighbor is very kind and willing to allow me to fell and buck our trees using his 24" beastly saw or anything else for that matter.
I am going to keep this little Sears jobber for those times when you need a small second saw, especially when experiencing a "Homer DOH" moment and get a saw stuck by incorrect bucking.  it just has no "oomph" and is a terrible design. It leaks both bar oil and gas, I hate having to prime the thing every time I set it down for 5 minutes as it draws air in the gas line. It starves of fuel if it get's lower than a 1/3 tank. It just has issues and it really hasn't been used much or abused. Since I bought it 5 years ago, my needs have changed, and since I have committed to heating our home with wood,I'm looking into a serious purchase so thanks for all of the above thoughts.


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## lukem (Oct 22, 2012)

How much are you willing to lighten your wallet?


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## EatenByLimestone (Oct 22, 2012)

Trunk size and how many cords/year?  

I keep a little 42cc/18" bar C'man also.  It does limbing duty and acts as a loaner saw. 

Matt


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## Benchwrench (Oct 22, 2012)

That's an important question, "How much?"
My wife will say - I'm cheap, I say- I'm Frugal.

If a $1000 will buy a great new saw, maybe I can get the same saw for $600 used. The thing is, this isn't for felling trees where one needs 80cc's to blaze through a trunk,  it's just needed for bucking and such so I'd like to find a high power to weight ratio, lightweight unit that can easily work a 16-18" bar. In other words a small saw.


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## Benchwrench (Oct 22, 2012)

Currently I'm looking at a Redmax G5300 which is basically the same thing as the Husky 353 but I still have no idea which one I want to pull the trigger on. However a 346xp might be the perfect saw for my needs... still looking though. I just don't want to buy a saw made in China.


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## lukem (Oct 22, 2012)

I'd look real hard at a Stihl 026/260/261.  Lightweight, good power, and can run a 20" on occasion.  346XP would be a good choice too.

If you don't mind spending a few bucks and plan to keep the saw for a long time, I'd stay away from any Husq saw that doesn't have an "XP" on the side.


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## Benchwrench (Oct 22, 2012)

zap said:


> I'm not sure what is wrong with this, looks like a small crack but it might be worth checking out.
> http://watertown.craigslist.org/tls/3350417464.html
> zap


 Wasn't the 391 recalled ?


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## MasterMech (Oct 22, 2012)

Benchwrench said:


> Currently I'm looking at a Redmax G5300 which is basically the same thing as the Husky 353 but I still have no idea which one I want to pull the trigger on. However a 346xp might be the perfect saw for my needs... still looking though. I just don't want to buy a saw made in China.


 
346XP is what the 353 aspires to be when it grows up. 



Benchwrench said:


> That's an important question, "How much?"
> My wife will say - I'm cheap, I say- I'm Frugal.
> 
> If a $1000 will buy a great new saw, maybe I can get the same saw for $600 used. The thing is, this isn't for felling trees where one needs 80cc's to blaze through a trunk, it's just needed for bucking and such so I'd like to find a high power to weight ratio, lightweight unit that can easily work a 16-18" bar. In other words a small saw.


 
Go run that 026 your neighbor has, like it?  Good, now get hunting for a used MS260(Pro).  Should land in the $300 ballpark for a nice example.  Or just bite the bullet and pick up a new MS261. Dust your hands off and declare the task "DONE!" 



lukem said:


> I'd look real hard at a Stihl 026/260/261. Lightweight, good power, and can run a 20" on occasion. 346XP would be a good choice too.
> 
> If you don't mind spending a few bucks and plan to keep the saw for a long time, I'd stay away from any Husq saw that doesn't have an "XP" on the side.


 
Yah, that.


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## TreePointer (Oct 22, 2012)

Benchwrench said:


> Wasn't the 391 recalled ?


 
MS-391 Recall Notice: http://m.stihlusa.com/information/recalls/recall-ms-391-powerhead/


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## MasterMech (Oct 22, 2012)

Benchwrench said:


> Wasn't the 391 recalled ?


Yup.  No issues with the ones on shelves now but the dealer should be able to run the serial if there is any doubt.  Stihl is _very_ thorough with their safety recalls.


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## Bigg_Redd (Oct 22, 2012)

Benchwrench said:


> how do I pick which chainsaw to buy?
> I have a small cheezy 16" 32cc. "Craftsman" branded (McCulloch/ Poulan) chainsaw, but I need a "real" saw that is just a bit more powerful as I am always "massaging" the thing to cut.
> I am looking for a "all around, use all the time" type of chainsaw.
> 
> ...


 

Unless you're willing to open your wallet my advice is keep massaging and learn to file chains.


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## amateur cutter (Oct 22, 2012)

+ 1 on the 260 or 026 pro if you want a small fast pro saw, otherwise look for a used 036 pro. I just picked up a nice clean good runner with an Oregon mini grinder for $ 175.00. There are some deals out there if you're patient & diligent. I always try to keep some cash in the "saw fund" if I run across a good deal. You can always sell a good saw, esp Stihl. A C


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## ailanthus (Oct 23, 2012)

Benchwrench said:


> My wife will say - I'm cheap, I say- I'm Frugal.


 
Me too.  So far I'm completely happy with the used 025 I picked up.  Could you spend 5x more $$ and get something much better?  Yes.  Do you need to?  Probably not.


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## Benchwrench (Oct 23, 2012)

Thanks guys for all the replies but I have a question, what's the deal with the numbering system for Stihl. I mean is there something to it so a guy can figure out what's the displacement by the model number ?


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## EatenByLimestone (Oct 23, 2012)

Smaller numbers are for smaller saws, larger numbers for larger saws. 

0XX is an older model.  XX0 is the newer version.  

I have no idea what they stand for.  I suspect it is a fraction of cubic cubits. 

Matt


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## Benchwrench (Oct 23, 2012)

Bigg_Redd said:


> Unless you're willing to open your wallet my advice is keep massaging and learn to file chains.


I like your style, however I think everyone should have a back up saw, I mean I think we've all "been there, done that" such as myself being stuck a few times in orchards and woods where I bucked incorrectly and got my chainsaw stuck and the only one for miles that heard my wimpering was my dog.


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## Bigg_Redd (Oct 23, 2012)

Benchwrench said:


> Thanks guys for all the replies but I have a question, what's the deal with the numbering system for Stihl. I mean *is there something to it so a guy can figure out what's the displacement by the model number ?*


 

No


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## Bigg_Redd (Oct 23, 2012)

Benchwrench said:


> I like your style, however I think everyone should have a back up saw, I mean I think we've all "been there, done that" such as myself being stuck a few times in orchards and woods where I bucked incorrectly and got my chainsaw stuck and the only one for miles that heard my wimpering was my dog.


 
If you're ready to step up to a "real" saw

1) MS290 - ultra reliability for under $400

2) MS361/MS362/357XP ultimate firewood saws in the $700 range

3) MS440/372XP - ultimate firewood saws in the $900 (or any) range.


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## StihlHead (Oct 23, 2012)

Bigg_Redd said:


> No


 
That goes for Husky as well. Though Husky has the same model number for saws with different displacements and engine designs, like... the 346xp and the 372xp. The 346 has 2 sizes of engines, and the 372 has 3 types/size engines and one is an x-torque. Go figure...


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## DexterDay (Oct 23, 2012)

Stihl 036 = Stihl MS360/361/362 = 3.6 Cu Inches (59-63 cc) 

Whether is an 046/460 or 029/290, just drop the 0 and the numbers are Cubic inches. 

260/026 is 49 cc
036/360 is 63 cc
046/460 is 76 cc 

Husqvarnas system is easier for the avwrage Joe. The last 2 #'s (or only 2 depending on age of saw) are the cc's (or Very close to it)


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## Benchwrench (Oct 23, 2012)

EatenByLimestone said:


> Trunk size and how many cords/year?
> Matt


My neighbor will let me use his big saws anytime. The largest being a 36"
Since I just installed a QuadraFire 5100 last Dec, I'm still figuring out the Firewood useage but I'd say about 3-4 cords per year depending on the wood and the season.

Thanks again guys, I think There's enough to chew on here, I really think I like the idea of sticking with Stihl because;
1. alot of you guys recommend the brand in several posts
2. Stihl is predominantly the main brand sold in this area
3. My neighbor has nothing but Stihl equipment.


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## Nixon (Oct 23, 2012)

Benchwrench said:


> My neighbor will let me use his big saws anytime. The largest being a 36"
> Since I just installed a QuadraFire 5100 last Dec, I'm still figuring out the Firewood useage but I'd say about 3-4 cords per year depending on the wood and the season.


Well, I've read your posts here , so I'm going to make  a recommendation . Go with a Stihl  Farm Boss , or a Husqvarna Rancher in the 60cc range if You just want a reliable firewood saw that won't break the bank to buy , or own .


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## Benchwrench (Oct 23, 2012)

exactly, Thanks, I will.


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## JOHN BOY (Oct 23, 2012)

What  ever you do dont waste your money on a ms390 . Maybe mine was a fluke ,but it was just a plane pig. Power to weight ratio is bad. Could'nt pull a 24 inch bar if it tried boogged down alot. 18-20 was ok. My buddy's 290 and 260 ran right with it. The ms260 is a great bucking and limbing saw that wont break you. Like some have said the ms260 026 used is a good way to go. not  heavy and good power.

I like a small to mid-sized fast saw 346xp or 260 is what i'd be looking at. Good luck with your purchase.


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## DexterDay (Oct 23, 2012)

There is a Nice 360 Pro with case for $350 in my locale on CL ........ Tryin hard to resist? 

(If I sell my 036, then I could...)

There are some nice saws on the used market. Just gotta strike while the irons hot


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## amateur cutter (Oct 23, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> There is a Nice 360 Pro with case for $350 in my locale on CL ........ Tryin hard to resist?
> 
> (If I sell my 036, then I could...)
> 
> There are some nice saws on the used market. Just gotta strike while the irons hot


 
What ya want for the 036? Like I need another one, but well you know. A C


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## Uncle Dave (Oct 23, 2012)

JOHN BOY said:


> What ever you do dont waste your money on a ms390 . Maybe mine was a fluke ,but it was just a plane pig. Power to weight ratio is bad. Could'nt pull a 24 inch bar if it tried boogged down alot. 18-20 was ok. My buddy's 290 and 260 ran right with it. The ms260 is a great bucking and limbing saw that wont break you. Like some have said the ms260 026 used is a good way to go. not heavy and good power.
> 
> I like a small to mid-sized fast saw 346xp or 260 is what i'd be looking at. Good luck with your purchase.


 
This has to be for Fun!   My wife was in Good Will.  The clerk was selling some sort of contraption.  Fellow backed away, and may wife said "Sold!"   Fellow behind her offered her twice what she had bought if for.  "No Deal  . ." ,  The next week there was a Poulan  2150 on the walk, outside.  $20.  Scrounged the stuff to keep me working up a long steep hill behind the house.  Tool box, extra chain, oil, gas, Don't forget water at this altitude!  Great learning curve!  

Uncle Dave.


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## bcfarms (Oct 23, 2012)

I've got a husky 346xp as a limbing saw but for an all around saw I'm hooked on the Makita/ Dolmar DCS6401.  I've got two


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## DexterDay (Oct 23, 2012)

amateur cutter said:


> What ya want for the 036? Like I need another one, but well you know. A C



Yeah. I do know  

Let me call the gentleman tomorrow on the Pro. 

If he hasn't sold it, I will PM you.


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## MasterMech (Oct 23, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> There is a Nice 360 Pro with case for $350 in my locale on CL ........ Tryin hard to resist?
> 
> (If I sell my 036, then I could...)
> 
> There are some nice saws on the used market. Just gotta strike while the irons hot


 
Absolutely no reason to abandon your 036 (Pro?) for a MS360.  MS361, maybe, but I wouldn't, especially as clean as your 036 is.


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## StihlHead (Oct 24, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Absolutely no reason to abandon your 036 (Pro?) for a MS360. MS361, maybe, but I wouldn't, especially as clean as your 036 is.


 
I was gonna post the same. The 036 is a 360... same saw. Pro model has a decomp button. Not worth swapping out IMO.


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## StihlHead (Oct 24, 2012)

JOHN BOY said:


> What ever you do dont waste your money on a ms390 . Maybe mine was a fluke ,but it was just a plane pig. Power to weight ratio is bad. Could'nt pull a 24 inch bar if it tried boogged down alot. 18-20 was ok. My buddy's 290 and 260 ran right with it. The ms260 is a great bucking and limbing saw that wont break you. Like some have said the ms260 026 used is a good way to go. not heavy and good power.
> 
> I like a small to mid-sized fast saw 346xp or 260 is what i'd be looking at. Good luck with your purchase.


 
Something is definately wrong with your 390 if a 290 ran with it. With a light mod my 310 runs just behind my stock 361s. My 026/260s are all modified, and they do not keep pace with my 310, which has the power of a stock 390. ????


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## DexterDay (Oct 24, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Absolutely no reason to abandon your 036 (Pro?) for a MS360.  MS361, maybe, but I wouldn't, especially as clean as your 036 is.



I know there the same. Its tamato - tomato.  

Wont hurt to look..... It may be cleaner than my 036 (be hard pressed to find one cleaner) and the 360 is slightly newer and its a Pro. Which makes it, no different really. 

Its gonna have to truly check out, to even be considered. But.... Ah hell, I have a problem  Still calling.


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## StihlHead (Oct 24, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> I know there the same. Its tamato - tomato.
> 
> Wont hurt to look..... It may be cleaner than my 036 (be hard pressed to find one cleaner) and the 360 is slightly newer and its a Pro. Which makes it, no different really.
> 
> Its gonna have to truly check out, to even be considered. But.... Ah hell, I have a problem  Still calling.


 
Ah well, we are rooting for you then. Come out and say it... you want TWO 036/360 saws! You know you want it.

I have more 026s and 361s than I need. But who cares about _need_ when we can _collect_.


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## wdenton (Oct 24, 2012)

I upgraded for ma homelite 16 inch bar to a Stihl MS260 2 years ago and I have never looked back.
My one bit of advise is get a 20 inch bar.  Man has that saved on reaching up and limbing down trees


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## tlc1976 (Oct 24, 2012)

I have one of those same Craftsman saws that was given to me, 18" bar.  I cut about 6 cord a year average.  It has been a surprisingly very good saw.  I leave the top cover off so I can run it hard and it doesn't get too hot.  It has a full large air filter so no worries.  I learned to keep the carb clean and adjusted so it runs strong.  There is no massaging this one.  I got rid of that sissy chain and put a real chain on it which made a huge difference.  I hand sharpen it, keep it out of the dirt when I can, and I hate to say it but it actually cuts faster and stronger than my dad's small Stihl, also kept up well with another guy with a small Stihl.  Yes I am in Stihl country too.  Been cutting 7 years and no problems with kickback, I think it is more in paying attention to what you are doing.  On a cold engine I either shoot it with starting fluid for instant start, or just pull 5 or 6 times and it starts.  Warm engine starts right up and it runs till the tank is basically dry.  Actually my only gripe is the gas cap, for some reason the threads have tightened up to where it takes channellocks to turn it.  And the bar adjusting screw, not really a gripe but it broke through the plastic years ago so I added a washer to keep it on the outside and it works just fine.  Just a few days ago I cut up a cord of ironwood with it.

I'm sure a Stihl or most anything else is built a lot better and made for serious use, but for as little as you use the thing, what you got is probably fine.  Just might need a little work.  It's up to you.

I am also not totally sure about it being a rebadged Poulan.  My first year cutting I got 3 Poulan 18" saws for $50 total.  It didn't take long to burn the compression out of them.  Yes a lot of the parts are interchangeable but the engine and everything seems to be better and stronger in the Craftsman.  Even the body plastic is better.  If anything the air filter is different and a lot better.


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## amateur cutter (Oct 24, 2012)

tlc1976 said:


> I have one of those same Craftsman saws that was given to me, 18" bar. I cut about 6 cord a year average. It has been a surprisingly very good saw. I leave the top cover off so I can run it hard and it doesn't get too hot. It has a full large air filter so no worries. I learned to keep the carb clean and adjusted so it runs strong. There is no massaging this one. I got rid of that sissy chain and put a real chain on it which made a huge difference. I hand sharpen it, keep it out of the dirt when I can, and I hate to say it but it actually cuts faster and stronger than my dad's small Stihl, also kept up well with another guy with a small Stihl. Yes I am in Stihl country too. Been cutting 7 years and no problems with kickback, I think it is more in paying attention to what you are doing. On a cold engine I either shoot it with starting fluid for instant start, or just pull 5 or 6 times and it starts. Warm engine starts right up and it runs till the tank is basically dry. Actually my only gripe is the gas cap, for some reason the threads have tightened up to where it takes channellocks to turn it. And the bar adjusting screw, not really a gripe but it broke through the plastic years ago so I added a washer to keep it on the outside and it works just fine. Just a few days ago I cut up a cord of ironwood with it.
> 
> I'm sure a Stihl or most anything else is built a lot better and made for serious use, but for as little as you use the thing, what you got is probably fine. Just might need a little work. It's up to you.
> 
> I am also not totally sure about it being a rebadged Poulan. My first year cutting I got 3 Poulan 18" saws for $50 total. It didn't take long to burn the compression out of them. Yes a lot of the parts are interchangeable but the engine and everything seems to be better and stronger in the Craftsman. Even the body plastic is better. If anything the air filter is different and a lot better.


 
RE: gas cap. Buy a spare, & trade them out every couple months, the ethanol swells them up, & if you let them cure out, they'll fit again. A C


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## MasterMech (Oct 25, 2012)

tlc1976 said:


> I have one of those same Craftsman saws that was given to me, 18" bar. I cut about 6 cord a year average. It has been a surprisingly very good saw. I leave the top cover off so I can run it hard and it doesn't get too hot. It has a full large air filter so no worries. I learned to keep the carb clean and adjusted so it runs strong. There is no massaging this one. I got rid of that sissy chain and put a real chain on it which made a huge difference. I hand sharpen it, keep it out of the dirt when I can, and I hate to say it but it actually cuts faster and stronger than my dad's small Stihl, also kept up well with another guy with a small Stihl. Yes I am in Stihl country too. Been cutting 7 years and no problems with kickback, I think it is more in paying attention to what you are doing. On a cold engine I either shoot it with starting fluid for instant start, or just pull 5 or 6 times and it starts. Warm engine starts right up and it runs till the tank is basically dry. Actually my only gripe is the gas cap, for some reason the threads have tightened up to where it takes channellocks to turn it. And the bar adjusting screw, not really a gripe but it broke through the plastic years ago so I added a washer to keep it on the outside and it works just fine. Just a few days ago I cut up a cord of ironwood with it.
> 
> I'm sure a Stihl or most anything else is built a lot better and made for serious use, but for as little as you use the thing, what you got is probably fine. Just might need a little work. It's up to you.
> 
> I am also not totally sure about it being a rebadged Poulan. My first year cutting I got 3 Poulan 18" saws for $50 total. It didn't take long to burn the compression out of them. Yes a lot of the parts are interchangeable but the engine and everything seems to be better and stronger in the Craftsman. Even the body plastic is better. If anything the air filter is different and a lot better.


I think we just figured out how you burnt up those Poulans so quick.


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## StihlHead (Oct 25, 2012)

Hmmm..... starting fluid in a 2-stroke....  ... along with running the gas tank dry... where is the smilie with the hammer hitting itself in the head?

Poulan is owned by Husqvarna these days. Husky makes a lot of low-end saws that are re-branded out there.

By the way, using starting fluid in a 2-stroke engine is not good, as it has no lubricating properties and it will likely cause engine scoring or seizure. Running a 2-stroke engine gas tank dry will cause it to run lean at the end of the tank... not good, as running 2-strokes lean can cause overheating and engine scoring.


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## tlc1976 (Oct 25, 2012)

Thanks, never would have known some of that.  Thankfully the Craftsman has been keeping up that way for many years but I know some things better now.  I do know about the dangers of running it lean, I keep the carb adjusted to avoid that.


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## fabsroman (Oct 25, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> 346XP is what the 353 aspires to be when it grows up.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Yep. I have a MS261 with an 18" bar and really like the saw. Cut up about 10 cords of wood with it so far after buying it about 14 months ago. I cut some wood with a guy that had a Farm Boss and the saw cut about the same, but the Farm Boss just felt a decent amount heavier. Now, for the really big stuff, I also have a MS660 with a 25" bar. I like that saw on the big stuff because it does the job so quick, but I would not want to use it all day long Also thinking about going with a 36" bar for it, but will hold off a little bit on that decision. My MS261 runs circles around my dad's 16" Craftsman, even with the full chisel chain on the Craftsman that I got him last year. In fact, we were at the local dealer the other day looking for some hardware and he started looking at saws. My response was the same as his when he saw me looking at a splitter "What do you need that for? You can use mine whenever you want." However, he was probably thinking the same thing as me "I don't want to have to drive to your place to have to borrow it."

In short, take a look at the MS261.


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## Kevin* (Oct 25, 2012)

Butcher said:


> +1


x2
i've got a ms180, ms250 and ms310. i use the 250 the most.


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## WoodPorn (Oct 25, 2012)

Benchwrench said:


> Currently I'm looking at a Redmax G5300 which is basically the same thing as the Husky 353 but I still have no idea which one I want to pull the trigger on. However a 346xp might be the perfect saw for my needs... still looking though. I just don't want to buy a saw made in China.


 
I run a Husky 365 Special, It is slightly larger than the 353 and way more saw than I need to fell/buck the 5-6 cord p/yr I process. I run a 24" bar as I am a tall guy.
The saw is perfect for my needs, I got it for $400 on ebay.


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## WoodPorn (Oct 25, 2012)

Nixon said:


> Well, I've read your posts here , so I'm going to make a recommendation . Go with a Stihl Farm Boss , or a Husqvarna Rancher in the 60cc range if You just want a reliable firewood saw that won't break the bank to buy , or own .


 
I've found Husky ranchers to be much lower quality (box store) than the pro/ -semi pro saws...


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## jonwright (Oct 26, 2012)

Stihl MS250c. Been a good all around saw with 18" bar. Seems good power for the weight for a non-saw-as-a-profession-or-hobby kind of guy. I've felled maybe 15+ trees and limbed and such. I like the choke mechanism for starting and I DO like the easy adjuster without using the scrench (but I do have to tweak it a bit more than the nut setup - granted). The easy start wasn't a big selling feature, but it's kinda nice when you get used to it.

If I made my living sawing wood I'm sure I'd have many more saws for particular tasks. But for just having one saw it's been freakin' great. I've cut up 40"+ tree tunks repeatedly and I've been happy with it. I CAN bog it down with pressure, but it's still rather fast with a sharp chain.

It would be nice to have a full handle on it so you could fell with EITHER side of the saw. But not enough to buy a new one.

I buy Stihl like supporting a local dealer and being able to take it to him with questions and have someone actually know a bit more than I do about the equipment.

Not going to find that in a box store.


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## MasterMech (Oct 26, 2012)

jonwright said:


> It would be nice to have a full handle on it so you could fell with EITHER side of the saw. But not enough to buy a new one.


 
Full wrap handle on a MS250C......  love it.


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## Benchwrench (Oct 26, 2012)

Eureka!

I just wanted to share what I found and let you guys know what happened in my quest for a chainsaw.

My neighbor *GAVE* *ME* a MS 260 Pro!






That's right- GAVE as in "here you go"
Cosmetically, It looks very good, has a 20" bar and 4 random chains that I haven't figured out yet what the difference is,* however* the top end is crispy (as in fried). It needs a new piston and cyl head (as far as I could tell)
I took the exhaust off and can see mondo excess carbon and some piston scoring, the rings are all gummed and stuck to the piston. I also noticed it was set for "winter" having the shutter still in place (at the air filter box).
I could tell it got extremely HOT and burned up most likely due to the shutter in winter mode, stale/low octane gas, improper mixture or no lube or a combination of these and terrible operator skills.

The story is that his son burned it up and he just bought another MS261 to replace it and it was just lying around in the need to cannibalize it for parts. Luckily all the parts are still on it. He even gave me the owners manual! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 (that's me doing a jig)

NOW all I need to find out is where to buy the right brand (not China) for a new top end. Then learn the simple tricks of disassembly to do a rebuild.
I'll know more once I check the crank bearings for run out and remove the head.


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## MasterMech (Oct 26, 2012)

You need to talk to DexterDay, He just rebuilt his MS260.

Damn that's one helluva neighbor.  Any houses for sale in your neighborhood?


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## Benchwrench (Oct 26, 2012)

StihlHead said:


> Hmmm..... starting fluid in a 2-stroke....  ... along with running the gas tank dry... where is the smilie with the hammer hitting itself in the head?.


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## DexterDay (Oct 26, 2012)

Just did my MS260. Meteor makes a good kit. Or you could just go OEM. Either way is fine. IMO. 

You will need to check the serial number . To see if you need a 44 mm or 44.7 mm piston and ring. A whole kit (cylinder, piston, rings, wrist pin, circlips, etc) isn't to bad, price wise.. 

Getting the saw for free, I would definitely put some good parts in it. And if it shows signs of being hot, I would replace the seals also. No need to put good money into the saw, only to have an air leak and fry it again (may be why it happened to begin with?).

Cheers.


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## jonwright (Oct 27, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Full wrap handle on a MS250C......  love it.


 
Actually, by "it" I meant as a feature consideration on a saw.


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## WoodPorn (Oct 27, 2012)

StihlHead said:


> Something is definately wrong with your 390 if a 290 ran with it. With a light mod my 310 runs just behind my stock 361s. My 026/260s are all modified, and they do not keep pace with my 310, which has the power of a stock 390. ????


 
What have you done to mod these?  Exhaust?


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## heaterman (Oct 27, 2012)

I would strongly recommend looking at the 5 series Husky saws. Power to weight ratio can't be beat. They start with the 550, then 555 then the pro version 562 which has to be used to be believed. I have to admit I'm a little biased toward Husky from a very long time ago. Raced 'em in various configurations from stock to full mod with alcohol, stroked cranks, expansion chambers etc. ........those were the days. Had an old 77 that won the under 5 cube class at the worlds in Green Bay back in the day and dang near got my face kicked in for a smart remark I made to an old timer that I beat......... lol

Anyway, if you are looking a a serious 3.5-4.0 cube saw you won't go wrong with a Husky. The 562 as I said is unbelievable for it's size and weight. Sink the full length of a 20" bar in a piece of oak and just flat get it.

Send me a PM. I still have some pretty good connections in the saw industry and if you're looking for a deal I can help.


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## Benchwrench (Oct 28, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> Just did my MS260. Meteor makes a good kit. Or you could just go OEM. Either way is fine. IMO.
> 
> You will need to check the serial number . To see if you need a 44 mm or 44.7 mm piston and ring. A whole kit (cylinder, piston, rings, wrist pin, circlips, etc) isn't to bad, price wise..
> 
> ...


 
I have the shop manual in a .pdf, however I would like to ask you about any special tools needed and how far do I need to strip this saw down just to do a top end job?
BTW, are you talking about crank seals?
Thanks Dex.

Bench


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## DexterDay (Oct 28, 2012)

Yes. Crank seals. They may still be o.k... But they are cheap and there are several good videos on YouTube that show how to do  it. Or you can do the top end and have it pressure tested to check. But if there bad, you will be tearing it back down.

To make it easier to work on, I separated the handle/tanks from the motor	/case. Made wrenching on it pretty easy
You have to take apart the 3 A/V joints and disconnect the 2 wires near the coil and loosen the boot to the cylinder. 
This was a response I got. Also shows the model # in which the bore size changed.



mking7 said:


> You already ordered but in case this helps someone in the future.  These are some responses I got years ago when I was in a similar boat.
> 
> 44.7mm's came in higher serial numbers (262xxxxxx)
> 
> The other way is that the 44.7 piston is domed slightly; the 44mm is flat. The 44.7 was fitted with a heat sheild beteeen the muffer and cylinder, so if you have one of these, it's probably not a 44.



Hope this helps.


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## jonwright (Oct 28, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Full wrap handle on a MS250C......  love it.



Ok, ok. After felling a 20"+ oak today with a SHARP chain for a change I rather see your point. Bogging it with the 18" bar was easy. 

Did fine on the limbs.


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## StihlHead (Oct 29, 2012)

Benchwrench said:


> Eureka!
> 
> I just wanted to share what I found and let you guys know what happened in my quest for a chainsaw.
> 
> My neighbor *GAVE* *ME* a MS 260 Pro!


 
Cool beans. They are great saws, and they absolutely spank the 250s. They can also be modified really easy.

You do not need to worry about it being a 44mm or 44.7mm, either P&C set will fit either a 026 or 260 saw with no modification required. I have both, and I even have one late model 026 chassis with an upgraded 260s P&C. The crank and saw body will accept either one. Just make sure you get the matched set, and I would go with the newer MS260 44.7mm as that is a poor man's big bore on the 026 and has slightly more power. Though if you can get an 026 44mm for cheap, I would get that. I would strongly recommend the Mahle OEM P&C, and the Meteor kits a distant second. Reason being that the OEM engines last about 2x as long. There was a guy on ArboristShyte selling new OEM 260 P&C and ring sets for about $100 a year ago. He had a lot of them, but I do not know if he has any left. You can live without the decomp button if the replacement engine does not have it. The 260 is not that hard to start (I drop start all my saws though, with the saw remaining in both hands).

Two most likely reasons that the saw was fried:

1) They used straight gas w/o premix oil in it
2) They leaned out the H jet on the carb and it overheated


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## StihlHead (Oct 29, 2012)

WoodPorn said:


> What have you done to mod these? Exhaust?


 
The 310 has a Europ muffler mod on it and richened up H jet (after slicing off the limiter tab). Not much else that you can do on a clam shell engine. I polished up the exhaust port though. Several upgrades on the 026/260s. They all have Walbro WT-194 carbs that are fully tunable, they are the best carbs for that saw. One of my 026s is a later model 026 with a 260 engine on it. Poor mans BB kit. Not a lot of power boost. It has an early model muffler (fully ported) and tuned H jet. One 260 is mildly ported: drilled out muffler, tuned carb, slightly opened up and polished exhaust port, no port timing changes or changes in squish. The other early 026 is woods ported with an original open muffler, tuned carb, opened and polished exhaust port, opened and left rough intake port, port timing adjusted to match the squish which was done with emory paper on glass to remove some height of the cylinder. This saws simply screams, and I have the WOT RPM set to max +500 RPM. That saw has the revs to keep pace with the 310, but not the torque. I run all 3/8 std B&C on my large mount Stihl saws. If I had a picco setup on this saw it would beat my 361. Those large mount picco Stihl bars are nearly impossible to get though. Someone has come out with a NK .325 B&C for large mount Stihl saws someplace though, and that would likely also do it justice.


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## WoodPorn (Oct 29, 2012)

I'm getting off topic..sorry to the OP
SH, you have any advice on light mods for my Husky 365??


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## ditchrider (Oct 30, 2012)

Benchwrench said:


> how do I pick which chainsaw to buy?
> I have a small cheezy 16" 32cc. "Craftsman" branded (McCulloch/ Poulan) chainsaw, but I need a "real" saw that is just a bit more powerful as I am always "massaging" the thing to cut.
> I am looking for a "all around, use all the time" type of chainsaw.
> 
> ...


Ford, chevy, dodge. Husky, Stihl, Partner,(discontinued) pick a color and get some advice. I have Huskies, but I have choices. If I lived in Stihl country, I would go with that and decide on a model that takes care of my needs. Parts, service, parts, advice. Did I say parts? Having said that, I won't make a recommendation on a model. My advice is Stihl. Lots of good comments here.


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## StihlHead (Nov 1, 2012)

WoodPorn said:


> I'm getting off topic..sorry to the OP
> SH, you have any advice on light mods for my Husky 365??


 
Nope, sorry. I have never done any porting in the Husky saws that I have owned: a 346xp later model, 372xpw second generation, the 395xpw, or the 576xp. I have only modified Stihl saws, a couple of big old Macs and an Olympic that I had for years, and my Homelite blower and Red Max trimmer. I ran a fully ported 346xp later model at a PNW GTG a few years ago (ported by a guy that goes by the alias of 'Tree Slingr" in No. Cal.) and that saw absolutely screamed. I would have kept my 346 except for the outboard clutch.

I would imagine that opening up the mufflers would be similar, as well as re-tuning the carbs. Porting is very similar on any 2-stroke by opening up and polishing the exhaust ports, opening up the intake port and leaving it rough, lowering the squish, and then opening up and polishing the transfer ports. You can also mess with port/mechanical timing and lightening the piston, but that gets into some more complicated stuff and often times the saws become 'less better' as a result at that point. I ran a 361 once that was loud and fully ported and really ran no better than one of my stock ones. For the most part modified saws do not command a permium over stock ones on the used market (though I have found that lightly modified saws sell very well around these parts; usually they sell themselves .


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## WoodPorn (Nov 1, 2012)

Thanks for the info, I've been lurking over at Arborist site and I think I'm gonna give  a Muffler mod a try.


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## StihlHead (Nov 1, 2012)

Yah, there are a few good guys on arboristshyte that have done some great series about saw mods, and I have bought and sold saws and saw parts from several of them. Some of the flame wars are not so good there though, and it can be a very tough crowd to war with. I have been banned there for getting into it with the 'Big Kahuna'. Not that it matters...


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## WoodPorn (Nov 1, 2012)

Life goes on.....


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