# Englander 25pdv Lazy Flame, Pellet Build Up in Burn Pot



## ispperformance (Dec 1, 2016)

Well I'm back at it again trying to dial in this Englander. Never really got the stove running perfect since my last post a few seasons ago. I'm still getting a lot of build up of pellets in the pot after 8-10hrs of use, and my flame is more like a campfire reaching all the way to the top of the stove. I have seen an Englander same as mine recently with that blow torch type flame, and that's what I'm trying to achieve.

Heres what I've done so far:

Full and thorough clean out, used the leaf blower, inspected all internals with inspection camera to make sure it was not restricted. 

Changed burn pot gasket, combustion motor gasket when I removed it for cleaning.

There is no adjustable plate in the bottom of my hopper to restrict pellet flow

I am using Outside Air, inspected there are no restrictions.

Settings are factory 6-4-1

Hoping you guys can help me get this thing tuned. I'm on the fence about buying a new combustion fan, but want to try a few more things before I spend the most bet. Would hate to buy it and have the same results.


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## heat seeker (Dec 1, 2016)

Are you sure the combustion fan is running up to speed? If everything is indeed clean, the fan or the vent is suspect.


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## jjones139 (Dec 1, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Well I'm back at it again trying to dial in this Englander. Never really got the stove running perfect since my last post a few seasons ago. I'm still getting a lot of build up of pellets in the pot after 8-10hrs of use, and my flame is more like a campfire reaching all the way to the top of the stove. I have seen an Englander same as mine recently with that blow torch type flame, and that's what I'm trying to achieve.
> 
> Heres what I've done so far:
> 
> ...


I have the same stove and with some fine tuning it burns like a MOFO. However, I have a PDVC that has been a headache since last February. I now feel I've got that in sync with the PDV. Enough about me so tell me a few things... 

Stove location? 
Piping method? 
Have you plugged the bottom 2 holes under the burn plate? 
Did you verify you're burning in D mode? 
Is your hopper lid secure and tight?
Have you changed the door and glass gasket? 
Have you checked for air leaks using a lighter while the stove is on? 
Have you spoken to anyone at Englander?

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## ispperformance (Dec 1, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> I have the same stove and with some fine tuning it burns like a MOFO. However, I have a PDVC that has been a headache since last February. I now feel I've got that in sync with the PDV. Enough about me so tell me a few things...



Stove location? It is in my workshop, detached garage / barn.
Piping method? There are 2 sections of pipe going outside to a tee, with about 4ft of vertical, and small clean out going down.
Have you plugged the bottom 2 holes under the burn plate? I seen the post on this, but I haven't tried it, didn't want to burn the shop down.
Did you verify you're burning in D mode? I have been looking all day for the instructions on how to change modes. When I got it, it was set up where the heat and blower moved together, but then I changed it to the mode where you could adjust them independently. If someone wants to share how to change modes, that would be great so I can make note of it.
Is your hopper lid secure and tight? Hopper lid is secure, and there is no play once it is locked down.
Have you changed the door and glass gasket? I have not changes the door, and window gasket.
Have you checked for air leaks using a lighter while the stove is on? Yes, I checked the door and window gaskets.
Have you spoken to anyone at Englander? No, I did not think they would offer any service as this thing is well out of any warranty periods.


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## jjones139 (Dec 1, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Stove location? It is in my workshop, detached garage / barn.
> Piping method? There are 2 sections of pipe going outside to a tee, with about 4ft of vertical, and small clean out going down.
> Have you plugged the bottom 2 holes under the burn plate? I seen the post on this, but I haven't tried it, didn't want to burn the shop down.
> Did you verify you're burning in D mode? I have been looking all day for the instructions on how to change modes. When I got it, it was set up where the heat and blower moved together, but then I changed it to the mode where you could adjust them independently. If someone wants to share how to change modes, that would be great so I can make note of it.
> ...


 I just literally laughed at your burning the shop down! That's not going to happen. All you are doing is diverting the air to come directly up through the bottom of the burn plate.

Englander customer service is fantastic so just call them and they will help you. Your unit does not need to be in warranty for them to help and believe me they are extremely helpful.

Here's the instructions to verify your burn mode.. Unplug the power supply from the wall and plug it back in and within 4 - 5 seconds you need to press both the up-and-down blower buttons at the same time and in the window to the left you will see either A, B, C or D mode in the heat range digital display if you see anything other than D then use the up and down buttons to change it to the proper mode which is D.

If I was you I would go to your local store and pick up a 3/4 round gasket and replace the door gasket. I believe the window gasket is proprietary and you must get that from Englander.

I don't see anything else wrong with what you're doing and you're install sounds fine to me. Out of curiosity what brand of pellets are you using? 

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## ispperformance (Dec 1, 2016)

Well the stove was on C, and I just switched it over to D, and fired it up. I will let it burn for a bit, and post back with a pic of the flame.


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## jjones139 (Dec 1, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Well the stove was on C, and I just switched it over to D, and fired it up. I will let it burn for a bit, and post back with a pic of the flame.


C mode is the hottest setting. You'll see a difference for sure! You should plug the bottom holes... You'd be pleasantly surprised on how nice the burn gets. I'm looking forward to hearing / seeing the results. One last thing... If you are still seeing a very tall Flame that is pretty much indicative with an air leak and I would go to the glass or the door seal first! 

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## ispperformance (Dec 1, 2016)

Is the difference between C & D just the heat?


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## jjones139 (Dec 1, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Is the difference between C & D just the heat?


And of course the burn too! Being on C is not your only problem. I really feel you have an air leak somewhere. My door seal was no good and the dollar bill and lighter test did not catch it. In all... Just maybe C mode is the culprit. 

I'm curious..... 

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## ispperformance (Dec 1, 2016)

The flame didn't change any...


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## jjones139 (Dec 1, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> The flame didn't change any...


I'm curious at what the glass looks like when you burn. Is it whitish or black? I'm seriously thinking that you have an air leak! In my downstairs pdvc I had a wild flame like that so yesterday I changed the door seal and poof I now have a normal flame! Do yourself a favor and plug those bottom holes! 

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## ispperformance (Dec 1, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> I'm curious at what the glass looks like when you burn. Is it whitish or black? I'm seriously thinking that you have an air leak! In my downstairs pdvc I had a wild flame like that so yesterday I changed the door seal and poof I now have a normal flame! Do yourself a favor and plug those bottom holes!
> 
> Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk




That pic above is with the bottom holes plugged, I used some steel wool, and stuffed it in there.  As for the window it will get all sooty white in about 18hrs or so. I am going to change the door and glass seal, suspecting the glass seal might be the issue, even though it passed all the standard tests. I just shot some compressed air around the outside of the door, and glass, seen a little piece of fiberglass moving in one particular spot when testing the window this way. Do I just call ESW and order the parts? Have a local shop here in NY, but don't think they will have the proprietary window seal. Any special tricks I need to know for the door / glass seal install?

I'm starting to get excited about how much heat this thing is going to generate once its working properly. I have lots of powdercoat to catch up on since I've been tinkering with this stove, damn OCD/ADD!

Anyone have a pic of an Englander 25pdv flame when its burning properly?


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## jjones139 (Dec 1, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> That pic above is with the bottom holes plugged, I used some steel wool, and stuffed it in there.  As for the window it will get all sooty white in about 18hrs or so. I am going to change the door and glass seal, suspecting the glass seal might be the issue, even though it passed all the standard tests. I just shot some compressed air around the outside of the door, and glass, seen a little piece of fiberglass moving in one particular spot when testing the window this way. Do I just call ESW and order the parts? Have a local shop here in NY, but don't think they will have the proprietary window seal. Any special tricks I need to know for the door / glass seal install?
> 
> I'm starting to get excited about how much heat this thing is going to generate once its working properly. I have lots of powdercoat to catch up on since I've been tinkering with this stove, damn OCD/ADD!
> 
> Anyone have a pic of an Englander 25pdv flame when its burning properly?


http://www.heatredefined.com/ 

That's the link to the Englander website. If you go on the website there's a video that shows you how to change all of the gaskets. They're also having a sale right now on gasket replacement.

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## jjones139 (Dec 1, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> http://www.heatredefined.com/
> 
> That's the link to the Englander website. If you go on the website there's a video that shows you how to change all of the gaskets. They're also having a sale right now on gasket replacement.
> 
> Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk






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## Tails1 (Dec 2, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> I just literally laughed at your burning the shop down! That's not going to happen. All you are doing is diverting the air to come directly up through the bottom of the burn plate.
> 
> Englander customer service is fantastic so just call them and they will help you. Your unit does not need to be in warranty for them to help and believe me they are extremely helpful.
> 
> ...



Do you know what is the purpose of these different burn modes and what each one actually does? I have a 55-TRPIP and am wondering about mine.


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## jjones139 (Dec 2, 2016)

Tails1 said:


> Do you know what is the purpose of these different burn modes and what each one actually does? I have a 55-TRPIP and am wondering about mine.


I believe A is a diagnostic mode,  not sure about B, C is a hotter burn for models PDV & PDVC and D is the proper normal mode for PDV & PDVC. I'm not sure what your mode should be, but if you call Englander or do a search on this site it will help. 

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## ispperformance (Dec 2, 2016)

Good news, my local pellet parts store had both window and door gasket. I will be changing them later today. 

How long until I can run the stove after new gaskets? 24hrs?


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## jjones139 (Dec 2, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Good news, my local pellet parts store had both window and door gasket. I will be changing them later today.
> 
> How long until I can run the stove after new gaskets? 24hrs?


Truthfully they say 24 hrs, but I went 12 and was fine. I'm quite surprised you found the adhesive backed gasket for the window, but good for you. Just FYI... When you apply the silicone for the door gasket make sure the round rope gasket is pushed against the center lip not so much towards the outer. Apply a good sizeable bead down the center and then another smaller bead against the inner lip. Set the gasket in place then close the door. Just remember its gonna be a tight fit initially until the gasket sets up. I'd wait a few hours and then open the door to scrape any excess silicone and then close again to complete an 8-12 hour drying period. Good luck and let us know...... 

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## scotthershall (Dec 2, 2016)

Two questions - 1) Is the restrictor plate in the bottom of your hopper removed/missing or was your stove designed not to have one? 2) What heat range are you running it on?

That's a big flame you got there. Without the plate, maybe it's feeding way more pellets than it should be. If there are a lot of pellets in the burn pot, it might lead to a lazier burn. The one on my stove is nearly fully closed (which leaves about 1.5" of the auger exposed). I believe this is how it was set at the factory in 2015. I'll try to get a picture if I remember and I catch my stove nearly empty. 

What's the biggest flame look like if you set the heat range on like 3 or 4? 

You might also try to adjust your settings. I've set mine to 4-6-1 and it seems to keep the burn pot and glass a bit cleaner. I don't remember these settings really adjusting the behavior of the flame, however, but it might be worth a shot before you buy a combustion blower. 

For reference, this is all with big box pellets. Current Stove Chows and re-branded Maine Woods Pellets from Tractor Supply.


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## ispperformance (Dec 2, 2016)

Two questions -
1) Is the restrictor plate in the bottom of your hopper removed/missing or was your stove designed not to have one? There is no presence of any screw holes or hardware that would have held a restrictor plate, so I am going to say that there was not one from the factory.

2) What heat range are you running it on? In the pic of the flame above thats with the stove on Heat 5 / Blower 5, if I run it at 9-9 flame looks the same but the buildup of pellets grows into an unburnt lava like overflowing pot on about 10-12hrs.

That's a big flame you got there. Without the plate, maybe it's feeding way more pellets than it should be. If there are a lot of pellets in the burn pot, it might lead to a lazier burn. The one on my stove is nearly fully closed (which leaves about 1.5" of the auger exposed). I believe this is how it was set at the factory in 2015. I'll try to get a picture if I remember and I catch my stove nearly empty.

What's the biggest flame look like if you set the heat range on like 3 or 4? It is usually a consistently large flame as pictured even when on 3 or 4.

You might also try to adjust your settings. I've set mine to 4-6-1 and it seems to keep the burn pot and glass a bit cleaner. I don't remember these settings really adjusting the behavior of the flame, however, but it might be worth a shot before you buy a combustion blower.

For reference, this is all with big box pellets. Current Stove Chows and re-branded Maine Woods Pellets from Tractor Supply.


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## ispperformance (Dec 2, 2016)

Here's a video of my flame last night on 5-5:


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## jjones139 (Dec 2, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Here's a video of my flame last night on 5-5:



You did verify it was on D mode correct? Forgive me since I just realized you said this was from last night. I truly believe you have a problem with the door gasket or the window gasket! 

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## ispperformance (Dec 2, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> You did verify it was on D mode correct? Forgive me since I just realized you said this was from last night. I truly believe you have a problem with the door gasket or the window gasket!
> 
> Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk



Last night when I checked, it was on C, and I changed it to D. Going to pull the door off and change the gaskets in a few minutes.


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## jjones139 (Dec 2, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Last night when I checked, it was on C, and I changed it to D. Going to pull the door off and change the gaskets in a few minutes.


You'll be good to go tomorrow morning. Don't be stingy with the silicone 

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## ispperformance (Dec 3, 2016)

Ok, the new gaskets are on, but I think I might have run into the previous owners own little DIY job. I've never really taken note of how the glass was held in, but with the door out on the table it seemed obvious someone was there before me. For starters the gasket in the glass had no adhesive backing like the new Englander replacement I picked up today, and the only thing holding in the glass were these four little tabs I marked with the yellow arrows in the photo. When installing the glass with new gasket I realized that these tabs cannot be how Englander installed it... they barely apply any pressure to the gasket / glass and I will have some serious leaks. So I decided to sandwich some flat steel marked with red arrows in the photo between these tabs and the gasket / glass. It is pretty tight now, and pretty sure it's not going to leak.

Question is, what does the factory setup from Englander look like? Can I order it?

Could someone please post a pic of how their glass is held in on a 25-PDV?

Door is back on, and I will be eagerly waiting to test this thing out!


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## jjones139 (Dec 3, 2016)

I'll send you a pic in the early AM.... I have 4 - 5/16 screws holding mine in place with a flat metal plate secure with 2 screws on top and bottom.


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## jjones139 (Dec 3, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> I'll send you a pic in the early AM.... I have 4 - 5/16 screws holding mine in place with a flat metal plate secure with 2 screws on top and bottom.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk







You're welcome and good night [emoji42]

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## ispperformance (Dec 3, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> View attachment 189330
> 
> 
> You're welcome and good night [emoji42]
> ...


 

Thanks for the pic. Looks similar to what I did, but I think I'm going to fab up a more permanent setup while I'm waiting for the sealant to dry.


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## Tails1 (Dec 3, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Ok, the new gaskets are on, but I think I might have run into the previous owners own little DIY job. I've never really taken note of how the glass was held in, but with the door out on the table it seemed obvious someone was there before me. For starters the gasket in the glass had no adhesive backing like the new Englander replacement I picked up today, and the only thing holding in the glass were these four little tabs I marked with the yellow arrows in the photo. When installing the glass with new gasket I realized that these tabs cannot be how Englander installed it... they barely apply any pressure to the gasket / glass and I will have some serious leaks. So I decided to sandwich some flat steel marked with red arrows in the photo between these tabs and the gasket / glass. It is pretty tight now, and pretty sure it's not going to leak.
> 
> Question is, what does the factory setup from Englander look like? Can I order it?
> 
> ...



There is supposed to be some clearance in regards to the metal holding the glass in place to allow for expansion. If you make things too tight you risk cracking your glass when the stove heats up/cools down. I made this mistake this fall with my wood stove. You want the glass to be barely snug, with the excess play taken up by the gasket which will compress but still allow the glass to expand without putting too much stress on it and breaking it. That glass is expensive to replace too.

I would wait before you fire up the stove hopefully others on here can read this and chime in with advice.


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## jjones139 (Dec 3, 2016)

Tails1 said:


> There is supposed to be some clearance in regards to the metal holding the glass in place to allow for expansion. If you make things too tight you risk cracking your glass when the stove heats up/cools down. I made this mistake this fall with my wood stove. You want the glass to be barely snug, with the excess play taken up by the gasket which will compress but still allow the glass to expand without putting too much stress on it and breaking it. That glass is expensive to replace too.
> 
> I would wait before you fire up the stove hopefully others on here can read this and chime in with advice.


I agree! The OEM gasket from Englander provides the cushion on between the metal plate and glass! I would think he could slice some of the leftover gasket and place under the top and bottom plate?? Food for thought..... 

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## ispperformance (Dec 3, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> I agree! The OEM gasket from Englander provides the cushion on between the metal plate and glass! I would think he could slice some of the leftover gasket and place under the top and bottom plate?? Food for thought.....
> 
> Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk




Reading the replied I realize I have the glass way to tight. My subconscious is telling me to seal any potential leaks. Took the door off just now and used a larger piece of flat steel similar to the factory one in the pics, and added a piece of the glass seal to the top of it to help snug down the glass. If I just use the metal the glass has about a 1/16" of play when I move it. I won't tighten it all the way, just snug it in. 

This is the correct part number seal, and it is pretty much flush with the steel when glass is installed. Going to call Englander in Monday to see if I can order the parts, but I need to get work done on the shop and use the stove till then. 

Attached is a pic of the new setup.


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## jjones139 (Dec 3, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Reading the replied I realize I have the glass way to tight. My subconscious is telling me to seal any potential leaks. Took the door off just now and used a larger piece of flat steel similar to the factory one in the pics, and added a piece of the glass seal to the top of it to help snug down the glass. If I just use the metal the glass has about a 1/16" of play when I move it. I won't tighten it all the way, just snug it in.
> 
> This is the correct part number seal, and it is pretty much flush with the steel when glass is installed. Going to call Englander in Monday to see if I can order the parts, but I need to get work done on the shop and use the stove till then.
> 
> Attached is a pic of the new setup.


Looks like a good fabrication! Good luck and let me know how it burns! I'll send some of my Street Glide parts to you to get coated once the garage is warmer LOL!! 

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## Tails1 (Dec 3, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Reading the replied I realize I have the glass way to tight. My subconscious is telling me to seal any potential leaks. Took the door off just now and used a larger piece of flat steel similar to the factory one in the pics, and added a piece of the glass seal to the top of it to help snug down the glass. If I just use the metal the glass has about a 1/16" of play when I move it. I won't tighten it all the way, just snug it in.
> 
> This is the correct part number seal, and it is pretty much flush with the steel when glass is installed. Going to call Englander in Monday to see if I can order the parts, but I need to get work done on the shop and use the stove till then.
> 
> Attached is a pic of the new setup.




That looks like you should be ok. The gasket material is holding the glass snug but can compress when the glass and the metal parts expand.


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## ispperformance (Dec 3, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> Looks like a good fabrication! Good luck and let me know how it burns! I'll send some of my Street Glide parts to you to get coated once the garage is warmer LOL!!
> 
> Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk



I just turned it on, just to suck some air, checked the outside air vent and it seemed like it was drawing in more air. 

The Powdercoat biz is not my full time gig (yet) but I'm working in it... Check out some of my work www.mw3designs.com


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## jjones139 (Dec 3, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> I just turned it on, just to suck some air, checked the outside air vent and it seemed like it was drawing in more air.
> 
> The Powdercoat biz is not my full time gig (yet) but I'm working in it... Check out some of my work www.mw3designs.com


So are ya burning or it was just an air test ride [emoji16]

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## Tails1 (Dec 3, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> I just turned it on, just to suck some air, checked the outside air vent and it seemed like it was drawing in more air.
> 
> The Powdercoat biz is not my full time gig (yet) but I'm working in it... Check out some of my work www.mw3designs.com




If you lived around here you would have as much work as you wanted. Having someone to bring items to to get sandblasted and powder coated is hard to find in these parts.


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## ispperformance (Dec 3, 2016)

Just did the first burn since I changed the gaskets, and I'm going to say that the flame didn't change much. I might have been wishful thinking when I thought the air vent was sucking more air.

So know what's the plan? Still on the 6-4-1 setup, but I'm just wondering if this old stove needs a heart transplant. Looking online for combustion blowers now.....


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## jjones139 (Dec 3, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Just did the first burn since I changed the gaskets, and I'm going to say that the flame didn't change much. I might have been wishful thinking when I thought the air vent was sucking more air.
> 
> So know what's the plan? Still on the 6-4-1 setup, but I'm just wondering if this old stove needs a heart transplant. Looking online for combustion blowers
> 
> ...


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## ispperformance (Dec 4, 2016)

I just added the OAK a few weeks ago, I got a bigger exhaust fan for my spray booth, and I didn't want to rob the stove of air. 

As for venting it looks almost identical to this picture minus the length of pipe on top between the elbow and the cap.




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## jjones139 (Dec 4, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> I just added the OAK a few weeks ago, I got a bigger exhaust fan for my spray booth, and I didn't want to rob the stove of air.
> 
> As for venting it looks almost identical to this picture minus the length of pipe on top between the elbow and the cap.
> 
> ...



Hmmmmm. Are the 2 bolts under the door lip tight? If not tighten, but snug don't crank down! This may sound ridiculous, but at this point it doesn't matter... Does your exhaust blower sound like it has in the past and is it original? A little 3-1 oil on the center silver shaft can't hurt. You can always remove the fan to clean and inspect, but you'll need a new gasket to reinstall. I believe we've hit all the major areas and my last ditch effort is for you to call Englander. Their tech support is great and your unit doesn't need to be under warranty.


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## Tails1 (Dec 4, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Just did the first burn since I changed the gaskets, and I'm going to say that the flame didn't change much. I might have been wishful thinking when I thought the air vent was sucking more air.
> 
> So know what's the plan? Still on the 6-4-1 setup, but I'm just wondering if this old stove needs a heart transplant. Looking online for combustion blowers now.....




Sounds like 6 might be too high for the pellets you are using. On my stove (englander too) I had the feed at 5 for some hardwood pellets I had and it worked great, but when I switched to some softwood ones that were average much shorter in length I had to turn it down to 3 or I would get an overflowing burn pot at startup and huge flames even well after startup even after just cleaning the stove. Also a very rich burn and dirty glass. My combustion blower is currently at 4 too. I could have turned the combustion blower up instead of slacking the pellet feed but that would not sort the overflowing burnpot at startup and also waste pellets. I run the stove on heat level 7 as I prefer shorter hotter fires.

Try turning it down to 4 and see how that turns out. If that sorts it you could try going back up to 5 if you feel you need more heat and I would then then raise the blower to 5 as well. Sounds to me as you are using this in a shop you are trying to get more heat than I would here heating a small house.

These englander stoves seem to vary significantly in performance in regards to what pellets you use and I find with mine when I start using different ones I have to make adjustments.


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## Tails1 (Dec 4, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> The flame didn't change any...



Thst is the same slightly smokey huge flame I was getting when I switched to different pellets. I corrected it by raising my combustion blower speed from 4 to 5 and lowering my feed rate from 5 to 3. I then had a bright active flame and still plenty of heat. The door also stayed clean.


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## jjones139 (Dec 4, 2016)

Tails1 said:


> Thst is the same slightly smokey huge flame I was getting when I switched to different pellets. I corrected it by raising my combustion blower speed from 4 to 5 and lowering my feed rate from 5 to 3. I then had a bright active flame and still plenty of heat. The door also stayed clean.


You're spot on with your comment! My pdv runs perfect, but my pdvc has been a slight headache now for months! I just installed it last January and being here in the Hudson Valley of New York we really did not have a winter last season so I did not burn it that much and when I did burn I was totally disgusted with the black soot and the performance of the stove itself. After finding out and doing some heavy research with the help of a few on this site and reading through the blogs I determined that my Straight Out vent wasn't good enough for a basement install and once I installed a 3 foot vertical rise, played with my lower settings and change my door and glass gasket things got much better. I am still trying to fine tune that stove and I must tell you that I am going crazy because I look at my stove upstairs and say why can't you be like that??? After speaking to Englander probably 30 times since I installed back in January I honestly believe that my stove was a lemon from the beginning since we have replaced just about every part. Nonetheless I keep moving forward and hoping that things will continue to improve. Oh and I completely forgot to mention... Pellet brands do matter!

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## ispperformance (Dec 4, 2016)

Tails1 said:


> Thst is the same slightly smokey huge flame I was getting when I switched to different pellets. I corrected it by raising my combustion blower speed from 4 to 5 and lowering my feed rate from 5 to 3. I then had a bright active flame and still plenty of heat. The door also stayed clean.



Are you referring to the 6-4-1 setting?


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## jjones139 (Dec 4, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Are you referring to the 6-4-1 setting?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes

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## ispperformance (Dec 4, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> Yes
> 
> Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk



That would be a 5-3-1


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## jjones139 (Dec 4, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> That would be a 5-3-1
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have inboxed you or private message you my cell phone number so call me

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## Tails1 (Dec 4, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> That would be a 5-3-1
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



No, 3-5-1

3 being the feed rate, the 5 is the combustion blower speed and the 1 is for convection blower delay which always should be 1

the lower the number the lower the air flow or fuel feed


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## ispperformance (Dec 4, 2016)

Tails1 said:


> No, 3-5-1
> 
> 3 being the feed rate, the 5 is the combustion blower speed and the 1 is for convection blower delay which always should be 1
> 
> the lower the number the lower the air flow or fuel feed



3-5-1 that's what I meant to type, but my brain seems to keep things in order. 

I made the change about 10min ago.


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## jjones139 (Dec 4, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> 3-5-1 that's what I meant to type, but my brain seems to keep things in order.
> 
> I made the change about 10min ago.
> 
> ...


It's going to take you at least an hour or a little less to notice any change. My number is in your private message if you want to call.

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## Tails1 (Dec 4, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> 3-5-1 that's what I meant to type, but my brain seems to keep things in order.
> 
> I made the change about 10min ago.
> 
> ...




How full does the burn pot get at the point of ignition during startup?


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## ispperformance (Dec 4, 2016)

Tails1 said:


> How full does the burn pot get at the point of ignition during startup?



That would be hard to tell, there is no autostart so I light a small handful of pellets with a torch to get it going.


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## ispperformance (Dec 4, 2016)

Well, just got back from the rink, had the stove set on 3-3 with the new 3-5-1 setting, and the flame seems the same, doesn't look like a lot of air pushing thru the bottom of the pot.


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## jjones139 (Dec 4, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Well, just got back from the rink, had the stove set on 3-3 with the new 3-5-1 setting, and the flame seems the same, doesn't look like a lot of air pushing thru the bottom of the pot.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Did you put your hand over the outside cover of the OAK to make sure it's pulling? I'm almost inclined to say it's your combustion blower 

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## ispperformance (Dec 4, 2016)

The OAK is definitely pulling in air, I grabbed a leaf off the ground and it would hold it on there, tried the rubber glove I had on, and no, wouldn't hold it. How much suction should I feel? 


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## jjones139 (Dec 4, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> The OAK is definitely pulling in air, I grabbed a leaf off the ground and it would hold it on there, tried the rubber glove I had on, and no, wouldn't hold it. How much suction should I feel?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Enough for you to notice the restriction and if it held a leaf it should be sufficient. Is there a way for you to have someone else hold their hand over it while you look at the flame inside?

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## ispperformance (Dec 4, 2016)

Yes, just did that, and the flame goes super lazy, like the door is open.


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## jjones139 (Dec 4, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Yes, just did that, and the flame goes super lazy, like the door is open.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's not the oak so that is ruled out!

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## ispperformance (Dec 4, 2016)

I'm about to plumb an air fitting into the OAK and feed it forced air from the compressor! 

Then I won't need to build a metal forge....

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## jjones139 (Dec 4, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> I'm about to plumb an air fitting into the OAK and feed it forced air from the compressor!
> 
> Then I won't need to build a metal forge....
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not going to recommend doing that because you could actually blow out the combustion fan. I know you're frustrated and all I'm trying to do is give you some information but we're hitting dead ends. I honestly think you need to call Englander tomorrow and let them troubleshoot it with you.

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## ispperformance (Dec 4, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> Not going to recommend doing that because you could actually blow out the combustion fan. I know you're frustrated and all I'm trying to do is give you some information but we're hitting dead ends. I honestly think you need to call Englander tomorrow and let them troubleshoot it with you.
> 
> Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk



I would never force air into the system, but thought it was funny.

I'm going to call Englander tomorrow, and see what's up. Will post back with what they say. 

Thanks to all for the help, you guys are great!


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## jjones139 (Dec 4, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> I would never force air into the system, but thought it was funny.
> 
> I'm going to call Englander tomorrow, and see what's up. Will post back with what they say.
> 
> ...


LOL... I thought you were serious!! You're welcome and let us know how you make out. 

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## Tails1 (Dec 4, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> I would never force air into the system, but thought it was funny.
> 
> I'm going to call Englander tomorrow, and see what's up. Will post back with what they say.
> 
> ...




The combustion blower seems to be the only thing left. perhaps if you call Englander they could tell you a way to bench test it.


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## doghouse (Dec 5, 2016)

Does the stove use the same amount of pellets on any heat setting?  Does the top auger turn more frequently on higher heat settings?


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## scotthershall (Dec 5, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Two questions -
> 1) Is the restrictor plate in the bottom of your hopper removed/missing or was your stove designed not to have one? There is no presence of any screw holes or hardware that would have held a restrictor plate, so I am going to say that there was not one from the factory.
> 
> 2) What heat range are you running it on? In the pic of the flame above thats with the stove on Heat 5 / Blower 5, if I run it at 9-9 flame looks the same but the buildup of pellets grows into an unburnt lava like overflowing pot on about 10-12hrs.
> ...



I've attached a picture of my restrictor plate. Sounds like yours was designed not to have one, but the pics might be helpful to someone. That's a 1.5" putty knife (which I use to clear the burn plate) for comparison .

The video you posted doesn't look awful. I tried to attached a short video of my stove running on 6-9. (Edit: this doesn't appear to be work as expected. I'll try to upload something to the Youtubes and post it).

Blocking the holes below the burn plate really should help with the "unburnt lava" once you get any other air leaks/restrictions resolved.

Also, the kind of pellets your using might contribute also. I just got done burning three bags of rebranded Curran pellets from Tractor Supply. These are easily the ashiest pellet I've encountered (but are okay in other respects). Overnight, the ash pile was enough to noticeably affect the flame, making it higher and lazier than expected. Once the burn pot was cleared the flame returned to normal. The rebranded Maine Woods Pellets from TSC didn't do this, nor do the Stove Chows from Home Depot or any of the other Energex/Premier Pellet big box stuff I've burned. The only other brand that got close to this level of ash, that I've used, was ThermaGlo.

Edit 2: Here's the video on Youtube...


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## ispperformance (Dec 5, 2016)

So after a 32 minute on hold, I finally got thru to Englander tech support. After going thru the things I already had done, what I've changed, how I cleaned it out etc. He told me to turn the low burn air up to 9, yes 6-9-1, and run it on 1 or 2 setting to see if the flame improves. I asked him about a way to test the suction of combustion motor and he said that the do a paper test. If you can out a sheet of paper on the air inlet and it holds it then it should be good. Regardless he pointed out what I already knew, the stove is 13 years old, so the combustion motor is 13 years old. I will buy a new one and see what happens.


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## jjones139 (Dec 5, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> So after a 32 minute on hold, I finally got thru to Englander tech support. After going thru the things I already had done, what I've changed, how I cleaned it out etc. He told me to turn the low burn air up to 9, yes 6-9-1, and run it on 1 or 2 setting to see if the flame improves. I asked him about a way to test the suction of combustion motor and he said that the do a paper test. If you can out a sheet of paper on the air inlet and it holds it then it should be good. Regardless he pointed out what I already knew, the stove is 13 years old, so the combustion motor is 13 years old. I will buy a new one and see what happens.


Good to hear.... Our of curiosity who'd you speak to at Englander? 

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## ispperformance (Dec 5, 2016)

I believe he said Devon or Derrick.


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## jjones139 (Dec 5, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> I believe he said Devon or Derrick.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Let me know how you make out with moving the air to 9.

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## ispperformance (Dec 5, 2016)

So with the settings on 6-9-1 as per tech support, I'm not seeing a huge difference in the flame.  Maybe it's a little smaller, but still a campfire in my opinion. 

Combustion motor?





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## jjones139 (Dec 5, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> So with the settings on 6-9-1 as per tech support, I'm not seeing a huge difference in the flame.  Maybe it's a little smaller, but still a campfire in my opinion.
> 
> Combustion motor?
> 
> ...


I think that you know you're stove best and that it's also apparent that you have done just about everything possible and that's why you're reached out to the Forum for some extra tips. I know that Englander changed from the Fasco motor and now they have p-tech and I will tell you first-hand that the p-tech is a quieter motor and it runs nicely. I would definitely go with a new p-tech from Englander and hopefully that will address the problem! You can also give me a call if you like and we can go over on the phone rather than texting back and forth.

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## ispperformance (Dec 5, 2016)

Is this the P-Tech? Its whats listed on Englanders site, and looks different than whats on my stove now.


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## jjones139 (Dec 5, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Is this the P-Tech? Its whats listed on Englanders site, and looks different than whats on my stove now.


I don't think so... That looks like a Fasco. Give me 45 minutes and I will let you know for sure. 

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## jjones139 (Dec 5, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> I don't think so... That looks like a Fasco. Give me 45 minutes and I will let you know for sure.
> 
> Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk


That could also be a stock photo and they haven't updated. Call and ask, but then again that takes lots of time to get through. 

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## jjones139 (Dec 5, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> That could also be a stock photo and they haven't updated. Call and ask, but then again that takes lots of time to get through.
> 
> Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk


That's definitely a Fasco, but Englander now ships P-Tech. 

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## jjones139 (Dec 5, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> That's definitely a Fasco, but Englander now ships P-Tech.
> 
> Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk


I got to thinking about something... is your door sooting up and if so how long does it take to turn Blackish? Also the 2 screws under the door lip they hold the burn pot secure against the firewall. Check those to see if they are tight, but do not crank them they should only be snug and then another half turn. There's a possibility that you may have a bad burn pot gasket. It happened to me and once it was replaced it changed my burn tremendously for the better!

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## ispperformance (Dec 5, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> I got to thinking about something... is your door sooting up and if so how long does it take to turn Blackish? Also the 2 screws under the door lip they hold the burn pot secure against the firewall. Check those to see if they are tight, but do not crank them they should only be snug and then another half turn. There's a possibility that you may have a bad burn pot gasket. It happened to me and once it was replaced it changed my burn tremendously for the better!
> 
> Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk



I checked that a a few weeks back, and they were tight. I gave them a 1/8 turn just to be sure. Tech said that people over tighten the burn pot gaskets all the time, and they should put a torque spec on it. Will grab a burn pot gasket with the combustion motor, I changed it last year, but hey, I might as well do it again.


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## ispperformance (Dec 5, 2016)

Well here is what I have after running the stove at 6-9-1 on 2-2 as per tech support. I started the stove at around Noon. Ordered the new combustion motor thru Englander today, along with the correct glass supports, hopefully I get the new parts by the end of the week!




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## jjones139 (Dec 5, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Well here is what I have after running the stove at 6-9-1 on 2-2 as per tech support. I started the stove at around Noon. Ordered the new combustion motor thru Englander today, along with the correct glass supports, hopefully I get the new parts by the end of the week!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah that's a problem! That blower can't get here fast enough! 

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## Beaudeen (Dec 6, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Well here is what I have after running the stove at 6-9-1 on 2-2 as per tech support. I started the stove at around Noon. Ordered the new combustion motor thru Englander today, along with the correct glass supports, hopefully I get the new parts by the end of the week!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's over feeding BIG TIME...

     I think I have my 2008 25-PDV dialed in now...this is my 8th heating season on original combustion and convection motors along with original door and glass gaskets. I purchased a new door gasket, but still passes the dollar bill test. It sits in my spare parts box for now.

     Here are my settings...
bottom 3...2-4-1
C mode
Lacrete softwood pellets from Home Depot
1-7 is showing 225 degrees F on a digital wired meat thermometer inserted in the far left room heat tube.
26 hours per bag
Flame looks similar to yours..and door glass needs a little wipe around the hinge side glass 1/2" black soot every few days.

Burn pot has always needed attention every 8 hours...little scrape and spread pellets around on the burn plate. Bottom holes have been plugged with steel wool years ago and I don't remove the pot assy as I have used high temp RTV as the gasket.

     Its all about the heat output rather than the look of the flame..gave up on trying to get it to burn like a blow torch years ago.

     Interested in the NEW type combustion motor from ESW compared to the Fasco...Noise reduction would be GREAT..

     My experience with the stove...hope it helps.


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## funflyer (Dec 6, 2016)

Beaudeen said:


> That's over feeding BIG TIME...
> 
> I think have my 2008 25-PDV dialed in now...this is my 8th heating season on original combustion and convection motors along with original door and glass gaskets. I purchased a new door gasket, but still passes the dollar bill test. It sits in my spare parts box for now.
> 
> ...




I agree. My Englander, although a different model, would go into meltdown mode if I set the LFF to 6. Bottom 3 are set to 4-7-1.


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## ispperformance (Dec 6, 2016)

funflyer said:


> I agree. My Englander, although a different model, would go into meltdown mode if I set the LFF to 6. Bottom 3 are set to 4-7-1.



Here's a question, when you change the bottom three numbers (6-4-1) what does that effect? The tech said that only controls burn settings 1 thru 2, is that correct?


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## jjones139 (Dec 6, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Here's a question, when you change the bottom three numbers (6-4-1) what does that effect? The tech said that only controls burn settings 1 thru 2, is that correct?


That is correct! Anything past 2 they are obsolete!

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## ispperformance (Dec 6, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> That is correct! Anything past 2 it's obsolete!
> 
> Sent from my SM-T377V using Tapatalk



So does the thing just run like a rampaged ape after that, lol....  I think I might modify my hopper, and add an adjustable plate for the auger opening. Tech said that was only on the newer stoves, and mine didn't have it. If I could see how they did it I could mock it up. This way when I am running up on 8-9 I can fine tune.


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## jjones139 (Dec 6, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> So does the thing just run like a rampaged ape after that, lol....  I think I might modify my hopper, and add an adjustable plate for the auger opening. Tech said that was only on the newer stoves, and mine didn't have it. If I could see how they did it I could mock it up. This way when I am running up on 8-9 I can fine tune.


Both of my hoppers are full so I can't get you a pic of my restrictor plates. Maybe someone else can help??

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## Beaudeen (Dec 7, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> So does the thing just run like a rampaged ape after that, lol....  I think I might modify my hopper, and add an adjustable plate for the auger opening. Tech said that was only on the newer stoves, and mine didn't have it. If I could see how they did it I could mock it up. This way when I am running up on 8-9 I can fine tune.


Here's a pic of the plate...approx 2x4" sheet metal with 1 screw through the slide slot.  I have mine fully closed..leaves a 1" opening. http://www.heatredefined.com/assets/images/general/HopperImg.jpg

     As to running the stove on heat setting 9...I haven't had the need to go above 4 on the coldest of days and the burn pot needs alot of attention as it will overflow as in your pics, but she really puts out the heat. Usually running in the 2-7 setting for this time of year.


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## jjones139 (Dec 7, 2016)

Beaudeen said:


> Here's a pic of the plate...approx 2x4" sheet metal with 1 screw through the slide slot.  I have mine fully closed..leaves a 1" opening. http://www.heatredefined.com/assets/images/general/HopperImg.jpg
> 
> As to running the stove on heat setting 9...I haven't had the need to go above 4 on the coldest of days and the burn pot needs alot of attention as it will overflow as in your pics, but she really puts out the heat. Usually running in the 2-7 setting for this time of year.


Have either of you plugged the 2 larger holes under the burn plate? I did last season on both of my stoves and I have not had build up in the pot since. 

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## Beaudeen (Dec 7, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> Have either of you plugged the 2 larger holes under the burn plate? I did last season on both of my stoves and I have not had build up in the pot since.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T377V using Tapatalk


Plugged those holes 3 years ago..that was the last time I removed the burn pot and is now RTV sealed. The burn pot is not the best design..you can do a search on modifications that people have done..I can live with the original design. I don't get a buildup of unburned pellets...just light fluffy ash.

This stove burns so much better on softwood pellets.


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## Pellet rick (Dec 7, 2016)

Beaudeen said:


> Plugged those holes 3 years ago..that was the last time I removed the burn pot and is now RTV sealed. The burn pot is not the best design..you can do a search on modifications that people have done..I can live with the original design. I don't get a buildup of unburned pellets...just light fluffy ash.
> 
> This stove burns so much better on softwood pellets.


I agree , my pdv also burns much much better on softwood pellets. I used to have a pile of lava every few hours and need to scoop out the burn pot 3-4 times a day. Now I just scoop a very small pile of light ash out once a day and absolutely no lave in the pot. Should have switched to softies a long time ago


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## Beaudeen (Dec 7, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Well here is what I have after running the stove at 6-9-1 on 2-2 as per tech support. I started the stove at around Noon. Ordered the new combustion motor thru Englander today, along with the correct glass supports, hopefully I get the new parts by the end of the week!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Change those settings to 2-6-1 on heat 2-7...That 6-4-1 is a starting point and have to be fine tuned to pellet type and exhaust set up for your stove...give it a try for 4 hours and see what happens and go from there.

     By the way....what pellets are you burning..?? Pick up a couple of bags of softwoods if available in your area.


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## jjones139 (Dec 7, 2016)

Pellet rick said:


> I agree , my pdv also burns much much better on softwood pellets. I used to have a pile of lava every few hours and need to scoop out the burn pot 3-4 times a day. Now I just scoop a very small pile of light ash out once a day and absolutely no lave in the pot. Should have switched to softies a long time ago


Hmmmmm I never gave soft pellets a chance since many who burn Englander stoves seem to favor hardwood. Honestly, I don't know if I can get them in my area. Will have to check.... I too get the fluffy ash, but not lava pile!! 

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## Pellet rick (Dec 7, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> Hmmmmm I never gave soft pellets a chance since many who burn Englander stoves seem to favor hardwood. Honestly, I don't know if I can get them in my area. Will have to check.... I too get the fluffy ash, but not lava pile!!
> 
> Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk


I have to drive alittle farther but the payoff in daily matainence and more heat is definitely worth it. I will never go back to hardwood


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## Beaudeen (Dec 7, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> Hmmmmm I never gave soft pellets a chance since many who burn Englander stoves seem to favor hardwood. Honestly, I don't know if I can get them in my area. Will have to check.... I too get the fluffy ash, but not lava pile!!
> 
> Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk


This was directed at the original poster with the burn problems...but hey, if you haven't tried softies...give them a try, don't think you'll go back to hardwoods.


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## jjones139 (Dec 8, 2016)

Do we have any updates?

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## ispperformance (Dec 8, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> Do we have any updates?
> 
> Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk



Updates....  more like disappointments! 

So I got the new combustion motor installed and turned the stove on at 3:30pm, and this is what I got running it on 7-7 only 3hrs later!  Englander said it was probably my combustion motor, guess not, what now? I'm more than frustrated.....





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## jjones139 (Dec 8, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Updates....  more like disappointments!
> 
> So I got the new combustion motor installed and turned the stove on at 3:30pm, and this is what I got running it on 7-7 only 3hrs later!  Englander said it was probably my combustion motor, guess not, what now? I'm more than frustrated.....
> 
> ...


Dam..... What brand pellets are you burning? 

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## Hot Foot (Dec 8, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> Dam..... What brand pellets are you burning?
> 
> Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk


The only adjustment that really worked for me was blocking the two holes under the burnpot with Hillman plugs.. I also closed the restrictor plate. I never get a lava pile up anymore. Check out the "Steel Wool Mod" thread for more info. My bottom three numbers are 6-4-1. I can burn pretty much any pellets with good results.


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## ispperformance (Dec 8, 2016)

Pellet Fanatic said:


> The only adjustment that really worked for me was blocking the two holes under the burnpot with Hillman plugs.. I also closed the restrictor plate. I never get a lava pile up anymore. Check out the "Steel Wool Mod" thread for more info. My bottom three numbers are 6-4-1. I can burn pretty much any pellets with good results.



I've been burning the Big Box Stores stuff, I have some Greenies, and Stove Chow. Both have never given me a burn issue. They pellets are stored inside my barn, nice and dry. Im going to have to fab up a restrictor plate for my hopper, but I don't want to rule out other issues, like a control board failure feeding too many pellets, or Auger motor issues?

Is the restrictor plate held on with a wing nut? Trying to determine from the pic.

I have the steel wool stuffed into the larges both right and left under the burn pot, and that was before I ran the stove tonight.


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## Hot Foot (Dec 8, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> I've been burning the Big Box Stores stuff, I have some Greenies, and Stove Chow. Both have never given me a burn issue. They pellets are stored inside my barn, nice and dry. Im going to have to fab up a restrictor plate for my hopper, but I don't want to rule out other issues, like a control board failure feeding too many pellets, or Auger motor issues?
> 
> Is the restrictor plate held on with a wing nut? Trying to determine from the pic.
> 
> I have the steel wool stuffed into the larges both right and left under the burn pot, and that was before I ran the stove tonight.[/QUOTE The plate is held in place with a screw.


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## Beaudeen (Dec 8, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Updates....  more like disappointments!
> 
> So I got the new combustion motor installed and turned the stove on at 3:30pm, and this is what I got running it on 7-7 only 3hrs later!  Englander said it was probably my combustion motor, guess not, what now? I'm more than frustrated.....
> 
> ...


We're trying to help you out here Bud...

what pellets are you burning

plug the 2 burn pot holes under the burn plate with steel wool

fab up a hopper slide plate and close off the throat some

how does the stove burn on setting 6-4-1 on heat 2-7

how does the stove burn on setting 2-4-1 on heat 2-7


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## ispperformance (Dec 8, 2016)

Beaudeen said:


> We're trying to help you out here Bud...



what pellets are you burning - Stove Chow or Greenies (in the pic stove chow)

plug the 2 burn pot holes under the burn plate with steel wool - Steel wool mod was done today before burning.

fab up a hopper slide plate and close off the throat some - Going to build one tonight, hopefully....

how does the stove burn on setting 6-4-1 on heat 2-7 - Seems to feed a lot of pellets large tall flame.

how does the stove burn on setting 2-4-1 on heat 2-7 - Smaller more controlled flame.

I switched the stove back to 2-2, and cleaned out the build up in the pot. The pot was still feeding faster than it was previously on the 2-4-1 setting. It is now switched to off, and I will tinker when cool.

What is the sequence for a control panel reset? Something else is going on now, the stove doesn't seem to be feeding properly.....


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## Beaudeen (Dec 8, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> what pellets are you burning - Stove Chow or Greenies (in the pic stove chow)
> 
> plug the 2 burn pot holes under the burn plate with steel wool - Steel wool mod was done today before burning.
> 
> ...





ispperformance said:


> what pellets are you burning - Stove Chow or Greenies (in the pic stove chow)
> 
> plug the 2 burn pot holes under the burn plate with steel wool - Steel wool mod was done today before burning.
> 
> ...




     Bump up the low burn air to 6     ( 2-6-1)  or more to get the flame burning better...I have mine on 2-6-1 and the flame is lively and hitting the top of the stove. I find that if you can't get it burning right in the lower 1-2 settings that can be fine tuned, you won't have better luck in the higher heat settings.

      Looks like your in dire need of the hopper slide plate to cut the feed down in the upper settings...

     Try a few bags of softwood pellets if you can find in your area.


How does that new combustion blower compare to the old one in the sound level dept..??  Thought you may have better results than what your having.

     One last thing...why are you running the stove on a 7-7 setting..??? Heating the neighborhood..??


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## ispperformance (Dec 8, 2016)

Beaudeen said:


> Bump up the low burn air to 6      2-6-1  or more to get the flame burning better...I have mine on 2-6-1 and the flame is lively and hitting the top of the stove. I find that if you can't get it burning right in the lower 1-2 settings that can be fine tuned, you won't have better luck in the higher heat settings.
> 
> Looks like your in dire need of the hopper slide plate to cut the feed down in the upper settings...
> 
> Try a few bags of softwood pellets if you can find in your area.




How does that new combustion blower compare to the old one in the sound level dept..??  Thought you may have better results than what your having. - Englander shipped the Fasco model, it is much quieter than the original that was in there. . However as for the fan pushing more air I think  they were the same.


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## Beaudeen (Dec 8, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> How does that new combustion blower compare to the old one in the sound level dept..??  Thought you may have better results than what your having. - Englander shipped the Fasco model, it is much quieter than the original that was in there. . However as for the fan pushing more air I think  they were the same.




Fasco..?? thought the new one was this.


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## Beaudeen (Dec 8, 2016)

Beaudeen said:


> Fasco..?? thought the new one was this.


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## Beaudeen (Dec 8, 2016)

Probably a good place to start would be a board reset found here...
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/englander-25-pvdc-tuning.121069/page-2#post-1840776


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## Stihl029 (Dec 9, 2016)

I used to have the problem with lazy flame, black soot window after a few hours, and lots of blackened unburned pellets with daily cleaning.  After installing Hillman plugs to the bottom AND TOP large holes in the burn pot, I now have a complete burn of pellets, less ash buildup, nice clean window, very "spunky" flame, and heat output like I never had.  Also changed out the combustion blower years ago hoping for a change only to be disappointed by the results. I'm proof, the plugging of holes makes for a HUGE improvement of performance, in the PDV stove. There is a thread here that explains why Englander has to have the holes, its due to emission tests or something.  Here's the full thread if interested in reading. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/englander-pdv-25-steel-wool-mod.151866/  Only change I'm going to make in my maintenance is cleaning out the "clean out" tee on the stove pipe more often.  With the vibrant flame and airflow I have now, it seems to be sending more ash up and out through the stove. So I'm thinking this would be a good idea. So much frustration for many years until I found the thread on hole plugging.


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## ispperformance (Dec 9, 2016)

When trying to reset the control board today I got nothing. Unplugged the stove, plugged it in three buttons pressed nothing. I did this a bunch of times, and then called ESW tech support. After a 40min on hold I got thru. He ran me thru the procedure again, unplug plug in press 3 buttons, nothing. Unplug, plug while buttons are held down , nothing. We did this about 10 times, and then checked to see if I could get into the mode feature (ABCD) which I can, tested the three lower buttons, all working. Then he tells me that the control board is probably bad. Really? Just like the blower motor was "probably" bad. So now I need to spend $217 on top of the $168 to see if thats the issue? I am not too happy right now.....


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## Tails1 (Dec 10, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> When trying to reset the control board today I got nothing. Unplugged the stove, plugged it in three buttons pressed nothing. I did this a bunch of times, and then called ESW tech support. After a 40min on hold I got thru. He ran me thru the procedure again, unplug plug in press 3 buttons, nothing. Unplug, plug while buttons are held down , nothing. We did this about 10 times, and then checked to see if I could get into the mode feature (ABCD) which I can, tested the three lower buttons, all working. Then he tells me that the control board is probably bad. Really? Just like the blower motor was "probably" bad. So now I need to spend $217 on top of the $168 to see if thats the issue? I am not too happy right now.....



I wouldn't buy a new board just yet. Try plugging those burnpot holes with Hillman plugs and see what happens. Don't use steel wool it won't work as well.


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## ispperformance (Dec 10, 2016)

Tails1 said:


> I wouldn't buy a new board just yet. Try plugging those burnpot holes with Hillman plugs and see what happens. Don't use steel wool it won't work as well.



I'm working on fab'ing up the restrictor plate for the hopper, and then headed to Lowe's for the plugs. Should I use the plugs under the burn pot as well? Have steel wool in there now. 

Any idea what size plugs?


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## Tails1 (Dec 10, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> I'm working on fab'ing up the restrictor plate for the hopper, and then headed to Lowe's for the plugs. Should I use the plugs under the burn pot as well? Have steel wool in there now.
> 
> Any idea what size plugs?
> 
> ...



I think folks were saying it was 3/4. Yes under the burn pot as well. I would measure them to be sure.


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## Hot Foot (Dec 10, 2016)

Top plugs 1/2" left, 3/4" right. The bottom plugs are both 3/4", I think.


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## Hot Foot (Dec 10, 2016)

Hillman steel plugs.


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## jjones139 (Dec 10, 2016)

I used quarter size magnets with an outside metal shield secured with small bead of high temp silicone. 

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## Hot Foot (Dec 10, 2016)

As long as the magnets don't crack, you should be good to go.


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## jjones139 (Dec 10, 2016)

Pellet Fanatic said:


> As long as the magnets don't crack, you should be good to go.


It's been 3 years in my PDV and 1 year in the PDVC and all is good. Even if they do crack the silicone will keep them intact. 

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## Hot Foot (Dec 10, 2016)

Awesome. Please let us know how you make out.


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## ispperformance (Dec 10, 2016)

Installed the Hillman plugs. There are two - 3/4" bottom of the pot, and one - 3/4", one - 1/2" on top of the pot. At the bottom I had to grind one edge of the plug flat so it would fit, the hole in the burn pot is right at the bottom.

Didn't get a chance to make the restrictor plate yet, but I emptied the hopper and drew up a quick idea.


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## Tails1 (Dec 10, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Installed the Hillman plugs. There are two - 3/4" bottom of the pot, and one - 3/4", one - 1/2" on top of the pot. At the bottom I had to grind one edge of the plug flat so it would fit, the hole in the burn pot is right at the bottom.
> 
> Didn't get a chance to make the restrictor plate yet, but I emptied the hopper and drew up a quick idea.
> 
> ...



Have you tried running the stove since you installed the plugs but before you make the restrictor plate? Just curious to see how it works. I have been seeing quite a few complaints regarding this problem with this stove on youtube.


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## ispperformance (Dec 10, 2016)

I ran the stove for a bit with the steel wool in the holes under the burn pot. Might have seen a slight difference, but I'm sure some air was still getting pulled in. 

I have the hopper empty now, and I'm going to install the restrictor plate. However I will run about 10pounds of pellets first to get a baseline with the plugs installed. I don't like to change too many things at once.


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## Tails1 (Dec 10, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> I ran the stove for a bit with the steel wool in the holes under the burn pot. Might have seen a slight difference, but I'm sure some air was still getting pulled in.
> 
> I have the hopper empty now, and I'm going to install the restrictor plate. However I will run about 10pounds of pellets first to get a baseline with the plugs installed. I don't like to change too many things at once.
> 
> ...



Good idea as if this solves the issue then it will spare you more work and additional mods.


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## ispperformance (Dec 10, 2016)

Tails1 said:


> Have you tried running the stove since you installed the plugs but before you make the restrictor plate? Just curious to see how it works. I have been seeing quite a few complaints regarding this problem with this stove on youtube.



I installed the plugs both top and bottom, ran the stove for an hour, and I can notice a difference in the flame. Regardless of the flame still being tall, I can see a much stronger flame at the base.

Didn't put much pellets in, and worked on the restrictor plate while the stove cooled down. Going to fire it back up with the restrictor limiting the flow to the top auger a bit, and see what happens. Snow is flying here in Upstate NY, and I need heat pumping in the shop! Hoping this does it!









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## Tails1 (Dec 10, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> I installed the plugs both top and bottom, ran the stove for an hour, and I can notice a difference in the flame. Regardless of the flame still being tall, I can see a much stronger flame at the base.
> 
> Didn't put much pellets in, and worked on the restrictor plate while the stove cooled down. Going to fire it back up with the restrictor limiting the flow to the top auger a bit, and see what happens. Snow is flying here in Upstate NY, and I need heat pumping in the shop! Hoping this does it!
> 
> ...




I still can't help but wonder why this stove didn't have that restrictor plate in the first place. Also remember you can turn down your low burn feed too to reduce the fuel flow. With the enhancements to the air flow through the burn pot this adjustment might be all you need. Besides even with a taller flame as long as the pellets are burning properly now without mounds of red lava and unburned pellets/clinkers it shouldn't matter. The default 6 LBF might be a bit high for the pellets you are using if they are shorter in length they will feed a bit faster.

Also are you running the stove on C mode or D? As I understand it those stoves are supposed to be on D. C will feed more fuel.

My worry now with that restrictor plate in there the pellets will bridge the auger over time and starve the feed completely and putting the stove out.


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## Hot Foot (Dec 10, 2016)

The flame height being tall doesn't matter. The heat does. The PDV is built like a battleship. In C mode, you'll have heat to spare. My bottom three buttons are set at 6-4-1. Closing the restrictor plate never put out my fire, even on 1 or 2. You'll have to experiment to see what position works for you.


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## Tails1 (Dec 10, 2016)

What really matters is that the stove burns properly and cleanly which it wasn't doing before.


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## ispperformance (Dec 11, 2016)

Any of you guys know how the control panel functions to regulate heat? Do you know if it senses the heat and stops the top auger if the fire gets too hot or does the top auger just keep running at its regular interval for the setting it's on? 

I ask this because yesterday when I was in the shop I noticed the flame went out, and the top auger wasn't coming on, stove still blowing a ton of heat with cherry red pellets in the pot, a few minutes later the top auger kicked on, flame started right back up.... I did check in the hopper to see if the auger was blocked, and it wasn't. Dont know if I ever noticed that before?


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## Tails1 (Dec 11, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Any of you guys know how the control panel functions to regulate heat? Do you know if it senses the heat and stops the top auger if the fire gets too hot or does the top auger just keep running at its regular interval for the setting it's on?
> 
> I ask this because yesterday when I was in the shop I noticed the flame went out, and the top auger wasn't coming on, stove still blowing a ton of heat with cherry red pellets in the pot, a few minutes later the top auger kicked on, flame started right back up.... I did check in the hopper to see if the auger was blocked, and it wasn't. Dont know if I ever noticed that before?
> 
> ...



No it feeds pellets by it's programmed intervals based on the heat level the stove is set at. There does seem to me by observation that there is a certain randomness factored into the how long the auger turns and how often. My stove sometimes does this too and I just attribute it to pellets not always  feeding consistently due to their varying lengths.

There is a over fire protection however if the exhaust exceeds a certain temperature I believe the stove will shut down with an error code.


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## Stihl029 (Dec 11, 2016)

That's correct, I have the 25 PDV I bought new in 08. If I'm using Dry Creek (which I have this year) pellets, I can't run the stove over 7. If I try to it gets so hot that it does shut down, and give me an error code. I have to just cool her down and restart, and all is fine. Its amazing how much heat this stove will put out with a good pellet.


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## ispperformance (Dec 11, 2016)

Stove ran all night on 2-7 with the low burn settings on 4-7-1, and I had the same full burn pot. I even set the restrictor plate to block almost half of the opening I had before.


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## jjones139 (Dec 11, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Stove ran all night on 2-7 with the low burn settings on 4-7-1, and I had the same full burn pot. I even set the restrictor plate to block almost half of the opening I had before.


Have you attempted to reset the board again? I know you tried the other day with customer service and was unsuccessful. 

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## Hot Foot (Dec 11, 2016)

Can you post a picture of what you're looking at? What was your heat range setting for the night?


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## Stihl029 (Dec 11, 2016)

Not sure when you say you have a "full burn pot", do you mean its full of burned pellets as ash? Or are you still getting a burn pot with clumped up half burned/ash buildup? One note to think about with the PDV is its not a fill it and forget it type stove.(with an ash holder) After a full night of burning I have a pretty full burn pot of ash. Its all dependent on the brand of pellets, and the higher number I have the stove set on, as to how much. I just use an old burger flipper to flip the ash to the sides, and I'm done with it. Every couple days I shut it down while having coffee and scrape the sides of the burn pot and remove ash under it. Once a week I do a thorough cleaning by taking out the plate, and scrapping all sides, and vacuuming out all the ash from the week. If your getting good heat output, and its burning the pellets to a complete ash, then your doing ok.


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## Beaudeen (Dec 11, 2016)

After all that and your still back at the starting line...I feel your pain. Looks like you have a nicely equipped work shop. Might want to go through this thread on the burn pot.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/25-pdvcs-original-burn-pot.123615/

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/need-help-with-englander-25-pdv.118384/


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## ispperformance (Dec 12, 2016)

Stihl029 said:


> Not sure when you say you have a "full burn pot", do you mean its full of burned pellets as ash? Or are you still getting a burn pot with clumped up half burned/ash buildup? One note to think about with the PDV is its not a fill it and forget it type stove.(with an ash holder) After a full night of burning I have a pretty full burn pot of ash. Its all dependent on the brand of pellets, and the higher number I have the stove set on, as to how much. I just use an old burger flipper to flip the ash to the sides, and I'm done with it. Every couple days I shut it down while having coffee and scrape the sides of the burn pot and remove ash under it. Once a week I do a thorough cleaning by taking out the plate, and scrapping all sides, and vacuuming out all the ash from the week. If your getting good heat output, and its burning the pellets to a complete ash, then your doing ok.



What I'm getting in the pot is not ash, its half burned pellets, and they build up pretty quickly. I had no choice but to run the stove all day today, needed to get some work done, and have been spending a lot of time tinkering with the stove. While working I had it on heat 5 / blower 5, had to clear the pot 4 times as it was full to the top. I noticed that the flame would get very small / go out, but the pellet embers were red hot, stove blowing good heat. Then the flame would kick back on again? I didn't care because when it did this, it helped burn up some of the additional pellet build up in the pot.

Did not get a chance to try the rest again, stove is off now, and I will try it in the AM when its cool. 

Either this thing is feeding way to many pellets or it can't burn them fast enough.


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## Tails1 (Dec 12, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> What I'm getting in the pot is not ash, its half burned pellets, and they build up pretty quickly. I had no choice but to run the stove all day today, needed to get some work done, and have been spending a lot of time tinkering with the stove. While working I had it on heat 5 / blower 5, had to clear the pot 4 times as it was full to the top. I noticed that the flame would get very small / go out, but the pellet embers were red hot, stove blowing good heat. Then the flame would kick back on again? I didn't care because when it did this, it helped burn up some of the additional pellet build up in the pot.
> 
> Did not get a chance to try the rest again, stove is off now, and I will try it in the AM when its cool.
> 
> Either this thing is feeding way to many pellets or it can't burn them fast enough.



Sounds like what you would see with the stove on A mode. Are the flames lively and "vigorous"? Are they still really tall? I'm wondering if you still are not getting airflow properly through the burn pot?

if you feel the airflow is sufficient then the pellet feed is still too much. Try for the heck of it turning the low fuel feed back to 1 and see what happens.


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## jjones139 (Dec 13, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> What I'm getting in the pot is not ash, its half burned pellets, and they build up pretty quickly. I had no choice but to run the stove all day today, needed to get some work done, and have been spending a lot of time tinkering with the stove. While working I had it on heat 5 / blower 5, had to clear the pot 4 times as it was full to the top. I noticed that the flame would get very small / go out, but the pellet embers were red hot, stove blowing good heat. Then the flame would kick back on again? I didn't care because when it did this, it helped burn up some of the additional pellet build up in the pot.
> 
> Did not get a chance to try the rest again, stove is off now, and I will try it in the AM when its cool.
> 
> Either this thing is feeding way to many pellets or it can't burn them fast enough.



Any changes?


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## ispperformance (Dec 13, 2016)

Beaudeen said:


> After all that and your still back at the starting line...I feel your pain. Looks like you have a nicely equipped work shop. Might want to go through this thread on the burn pot.
> 
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/25-pdvcs-original-burn-pot.123615/
> 
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/need-help-with-englander-25-pdv.118384/



Wow, that custom burn pot looks pretty sweet, I am going to make one when I get some free time! 

As for any additional work on the oven, I have not been out to the shop since Sunday, and am hoping to get out there today. I do have a question for you guys though. All of the gaskets on my stove have been changed except for the hopper? It doesn't seem to be an issue, but when I was working on the restrictor plate I was running the stove without it lit to move the remaining pellets down the auger. Noticed a lot of air flow thru there, made me think about the hopper gasket. Going to see if my local parts place has it in stock.


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## jjones139 (Dec 13, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Wow, that custom burn pot looks pretty sweet, I am going to make one when I get some free time!
> 
> As for any additional work on the oven, I have not been out to the shop since Sunday, and am hoping to get out there today. I do have a question for you guys though. All of the gaskets on my stove have been changed except for the hopper? It doesn't seem to be an issue, but when I was working on the restrictor plate I was running the stove without it lit to move the remaining pellets down the auger. Noticed a lot of air flow thru there, made me think about the hopper gasket. Going to see if my local parts place has it in stock.


Sure the stove can suck air through the hopper and yes a bad gasket could affect your burn. I honestly think that based on everything that you have done it would not be a simple fix as just a hopper gasket causing all of your issues. Obviously this is my opinion and sure I could be wrong, but I think not. At this rate you owe it to yourself to change the hopper gasket to see if in fact that could be it so I would go for it! When you get a chance check that board again to see if you can reset it.

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## Tails1 (Dec 13, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Wow, that custom burn pot looks pretty sweet, I am going to make one when I get some free time!
> 
> As for any additional work on the oven, I have not been out to the shop since Sunday, and am hoping to get out there today. I do have a question for you guys though. All of the gaskets on my stove have been changed except for the hopper? It doesn't seem to be an issue, but when I was working on the restrictor plate I was running the stove without it lit to move the remaining pellets down the auger. Noticed a lot of air flow thru there, made me think about the hopper gasket. Going to see if my local parts place has it in stock.



Will the hopper on that stove allow you to tape the hopper door shut (temporarily) to see if it makes a difference. There should be no part of that lid that gets too hot I wouldn't think.  One way to know without having to change it first. Also the latches for those lids adjust to get the lid to close tighter. It should be quite snug.

Also check this thread regarding a user that got his stove from factory without a sealed auger. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/englander-55-trp-ip-s-aka-25-ip-s.113588/page-7

Different stove model but same manufacturer.

One more idea, something I will do with mine come spring is that I will seal the exhaust outlet and rig up an adapter for the air inlet on the stove so I can feed compressed air into the stove under pressure, maybe 5-10 psi, then go around with a lit cigarette and feeling with my hands for leaks. I will feed it with an air pig so its quiet.

They should be pressure testing these from factory like this using canned smoke but I doubt they are.


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## ispperformance (Dec 13, 2016)

The gasket looks to be in good shape, there is no play in the lid once it's locked down. 

As for resetting the control board, tried it again just now, won't display the F5.


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## jjones139 (Dec 13, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> The gasket looks to be in good shape, there is no play in the lid once it's locked down.
> 
> As for resetting the control board, tried it again just now, won't display the F5.
> 
> ...



Are you following this for reset:
Unplug the stove from the power outlet.

Plug the power lead back in.

You must press and hold the bottom 3 buttons all at the same time within 4 seconds and wait 3 seconds and then release buttons.

Wait 5 - 10 seconds for the F5 readout display to go blank.

Unplug power lead - wait 5 seconds


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## ispperformance (Dec 13, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> Are you following this for reset:
> Unplug the stove from the power outlet.
> 
> Plug the power lead back in.
> ...



Yes, Plug in immediately press three lower buttons. Englander tech support had me hold the three buttons in while plugging the unit in to see if that would work no go.


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## jjones139 (Dec 13, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Yes, Plug in immediately press three lower buttons. Englander tech support had me hold the three buttons in while plugging the unit in to see if that would work no go.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I'm sorry.... I just don't know where else to point you at this time. It also sounds like the board is bad since it will not reset. I'm just a little confused since you can change the heat mode, but no reset!!


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## ispperformance (Dec 13, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> I'm sorry.... I just don't know where else to point you at this time. It also sounds like the board is bad since it will not reset. I'm just a little confused since you can change the heat mode, but no reset!!



The tech support guy from ESW was confused as well. I am holding all three buttons, and I checked to make sure they all work. Spending $218 because the tech said it's "probably" the board? 


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## jjones139 (Dec 13, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> The tech support guy from ESW was confused as well. I am holding all three buttons, and I checked to make sure they all work. Spending $218 because the tech said it's "probably" the board?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I just find it odd that all the other buttons work including changing the heat mode so I can sympathize with your concern and I'm hoping maybe someone else will see this on the thread and have something to say about the board issue? 

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## Tails1 (Dec 13, 2016)

Something is causing lack of airflow through the burnpot and the pellets. If the exhaust blower is fine then something is leaking. 

The stove is in D mode is it?


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## ispperformance (Dec 13, 2016)

Tails1 said:


> Something is causing lack of airflow through the burnpot and the pellets. If the exhaust blower is fine then something is leaking.
> 
> The stove is in D mode is it?



Yes, the stove is in D mode, and I have the Hillman plugs installed on upper and lower holes in the sides of the burn pot.


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## jjones139 (Dec 13, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Yes, the stove is in D mode, and I have the Hillman plugs installed on upper and lower holes in the sides of the burn pot.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What's your next move?

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## ispperformance (Dec 13, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Yes, the stove is in D mode, and I have the Hillman plugs installed on upper and lower holes in the sides of the burn pot.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I'm not sure. The flame always seems to be a large campfire type flame even when running on setting 1-1 or 2-2 with the three lower settings on any combination. The tech said if I set the low burn fuel to 1 that my fire would probably go out, well that's not the case, it still burns very healthy. 

The thought of throwing another $200 at a "possible" fix isn't too comforting. Would be nice if I had a friend with the same stove to swap control panels to see what happens. I've been scouring eBay and Craigslist looking for a cheap board with no luck.


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## ispperformance (Dec 14, 2016)

jjones139 said:


> What's your next move?
> 
> Sent from my SM-T377V using Tapatalk



jjones139 how about I send you my control board, and you can run it on your oven? 


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## jjones139 (Dec 14, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> jjones139 how about I send you my control board, and you can run it on your oven?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sure! I think that's the only way you're gonna know if it's definitely the board. 

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## ericofmaine (Dec 14, 2016)

Just a random thought because mine did this:  Have you plugged the exhaust blower directly into the wall?  My control board had the triac that controls the blower motor go bad due to a short in the wiring to the motor.  I ran it this way until I had a chance to replace the triac.  Maybe your board is putting out enough juice to spin the motor up but not enough to be where it ought to?

Eric


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## Tails1 (Dec 14, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> jjones139 how about I send you my control board, and you can run it on your oven?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



If you are comfortable with such things and have the board out of the stove, have a close look at it for damaged traces or cold solder connections or possibly cracks. Also nothing shorting out the traces and that the board is clean. More and more this issue seems to be pointing at a dodgy control board. Also that you can't default it. (reset)

Any competent electronics repair person could look at it for you as well.


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## Tails1 (Dec 14, 2016)

ericofmaine said:


> Just a random thought because mine did this:  Have you plugged the exhaust blower directly into the wall?  My control board had the triac that controls the blower motor go bad due to a short in the wiring to the motor.  I ran it this way until I had a chance to replace the triac.  Maybe your board is putting out enough juice to spin the motor up but not enough to be where it ought to?
> 
> Eric



I second this. However perhaps it is the fuel feed that is the issue not the air. Worth a try.


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## Beaudeen (Dec 14, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Wow, that custom burn pot looks pretty sweet, I am going to make one when I get some free time!
> 
> As for any additional work on the oven, I have not been out to the shop since Sunday, and am hoping to get out there today. I do have a question for you guys though. All of the gaskets on my stove have been changed except for the hopper? It doesn't seem to be an issue, but when I was working on the restrictor plate I was running the stove without it lit to move the remaining pellets down the auger. Noticed a lot of air flow thru there, made me think about the hopper gasket. Going to see if my local parts place has it in stock.



Check out these other burn pots...ours is too big for a pusher. Might give you some other ideas for a fix.

http://www.stove-and-fireplace-parts.com/category-s/840.htm


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## ispperformance (Dec 14, 2016)

ericofmaine said:


> Just a random thought because mine did this:  Have you plugged the exhaust blower directly into the wall?  My control board had the triac that controls the blower motor go bad due to a short in the wiring to the motor.  I ran it this way until I had a chance to replace the triac.  Maybe your board is putting out enough juice to spin the motor up but not enough to be where it ought to?
> 
> Eric



This is a great idea, and easily done. I will plug it in directly and see if it makes any difference. 

I am a bit perturbed with Englander, recommending that I replace the combustion motor, after trying to work thru the issue with their Tech support in more than one occasion. They should be accountable for selling me parts I do not need, but maybe that's why their tech support is free, great money maker.....


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## Tails1 (Dec 14, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> This is a great idea, and easily done. I will plug it in directly and see if it makes any difference.
> 
> I am a bit perturbed with Englander, recommending that I replace the combustion motor, after trying to work thru the issue with their Tech support in more than one occasion. They should be accountable for selling me parts I do not need, but maybe that's why their tech support is free, great money maker.....
> 
> ...



At least now you have a spare motor


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## Hot Foot (Dec 14, 2016)

I would ask them to take it back.


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## ispperformance (Dec 30, 2016)

Pellet Fanatic said:


> I would ask them to take it back.



I have tried numerous times, and now they want nothing to do with me. Real stand up company, they should have had diagnosed it right the first time. Wait on hold for 30-40min, diagnose problem in 2 min, should have known.


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## jjones139 (Dec 30, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> I have tried numerous times, and now they want nothing to do with me. Real stand up company, they should have had diagnosed it right the first time. Wait on hold for 30-40min, diagnose problem in 2 min, should have known.


Sorry to hear this.... You've done so much and diagnosed more than the average person would have even taken the time to do. Happy New Year!


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## DrewBoogie (Dec 30, 2016)

How long does it take for your hopper to empty when burning on those low settings?

I also have to say, there is one and only one way to stop lava burn now that you've plugged the holes.  You need to burn super premium pellets.  I have burned all big box store pellets in my stove, incluing $7 a bag Green Team Platinums (not Green Supremes), and I got lava burn.  Even with soft pellets from big box stores including AWF White Pine and Big Heat softies.  

i was able to significantly reduce lava burn last year with Spruce Point pellets that i paid $290 per ton, and by plugging just the lower 2 holes.  I burned  3 ton, so it was $90 more for the year than big box store pellets, but i was cleaning my stove out once every 7-10 days vs. 3 days on big box store pellets.

This year i was able to get Blazers for $260 a ton, and they are living up to the hype.  I have burned 2 bags of pellets over 3 days and have not touched the inside of my stove.  No lava burn.  I run my stove on fan setting 9 all the time and have run it on heat setting 7 in mode C without touching the burn pot and not having lava burn.

That is why I say you cannot eliminate lava burn with anything else other than pellets.


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## Tails1 (Dec 30, 2016)

DrewBoogie said:


> How long does it take for your hopper to empty when burning on those low settings?
> 
> I also have to say, there is one and only one way to stop lava burn now that you've plugged the holes.  You need to burn super premium pellets.  I have burned all big box store pellets in my stove, incluing $7 a bag Green Team Platinums (not Green Supremes), and I got lava burn.  Even with soft pellets from big box stores including AWF White Pine and Big Heat softies.
> 
> ...




There are many users on here who have stated that after plugging those holes the problem went away for them. As it isn't for this user I would think that he is a having a low vacuum issue, not enough air being pulled through the burn plate even with those holes plugged. Or perhaps he just happens to be using a crappy brand of pellets. I just think there is something else going on that we are missing. 

Can anyone with this stove confirm that if the burn plate holes were slightly enlarged would this help?


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## Pellet rick (Dec 30, 2016)

Tails1 said:


> There are many users on here who have stated that after plugging those holes the problem went away for them. As it isn't for this user I would think that he is a having a low vacuum issue, not enough air being pulled through the burn plate even with those holes plugged. Or perhaps he just happens to be using a crappy brand of pellets. I just think there is something else going on that we are missing.
> 
> Can anyone with this stove confirm that if the burn plate holes were slightly enlarged would this help?


Tails I have both my lower holes plugged and I have enlarged the holes in the center of the burn plate while closing up some of the perimeter holes. For me this was a huge improvement and I even have ash being thrown up by the newly directed air flow. I have absolutely no lava buildup and only clean out the burn plate ounce a day , with very little fluffy ash. But I do burn a high quality easy blaze softwood pellet. Hardwood still gives me a little trouble with more ash but still no lava


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## Tails1 (Dec 30, 2016)

Pellet rick said:


> Tails I have both my lower holes plugged and I have enlarged the holes in the center of the burn plate while closing up some of the perimeter holes. For me this was a huge improvement and I even have ash being thrown up by the newly directed air flow. I have absolutely no lava buildup and only clean out the burn plate ounce a day , with very little fluffy ash. But I do burn a high quality easy blaze softwood pellet. Hardwood still gives me a little trouble with more ash but still no lava




This is exactly what I was looking for, hopefully ispperformance will see it.


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## ispperformance (Dec 30, 2016)

Pellet rick said:


> Tails I have both my lower holes plugged and I have enlarged the holes in the center of the burn plate while closing up some of the perimeter holes. For me this was a huge improvement and I even have ash being thrown up by the newly directed air flow. I have absolutely no lava buildup and only clean out the burn plate ounce a day , with very little fluffy ash. But I do burn a high quality easy blaze softwood pellet. Hardwood still gives me a little trouble with more ash but still no lava



Do you have a picture of your burn plate? I've been tossing the idea around about modifying it....


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## Pellet rick (Dec 31, 2016)

ispperformance said:


> Do you have a picture of your burn plate? I've been tossing the idea around about modifying it....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Right now I do not but all I did to figure out how many holes to plug was to take a piece of tin the same size as the plate along with bending it to the same shape. Then I cut it to a squared off horse shoe shape. And cut the center out larger until I got the air I was look for and placed it under the plate . After I was happy I welded the hole shut that were covered by the tin . But I guess you could leave the tin there if you wanted to. As far as the holes I made them about half again as big but I also started slightly larger and went bigger. Hope this helps


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## ispperformance (Jan 2, 2017)

Pellet rick said:


> As far as the holes I made them about half again as big but I also started slightly larger and went bigger. Hope this helps



That last sentence kind of confused me? If you could snap a pic next time you vacuum out your stove I would really appreciate it. 

I could start welding holes etc, but if you got something that works I would rather start close to what you have.


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## Pellet rick (Jan 2, 2017)

ispperformance said:


> That last sentence kind of confused me? If you could snap a pic next time you vacuum out your stove I would really appreciate it.
> 
> I could start welding holes etc, but if you got something that works I would rather start close to what you have.
> 
> ...


I just cleaned today . Sorry I should have taken a picture. Like I said block some of the perimeter holes with tin or something non flammable from under the burn plate. As far as drilling out the holes I went 1 size larger on the center area that was not blocked off by the temporary plate underneath. Then I drilled about 4-6 of the holes out to 1/4 " directly in the center of the plate. Hope this helps


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## Tails1 (Jan 2, 2017)

Pellet rick said:


> I just cleaned today . Sorry I should have taken a picture. Like I said block some of the perimeter holes with tin or something non flammable from under the burn plate. As far as drilling out the holes I went 1 size larger on the center area that was not blocked off by the temporary plate underneath. Then I drilled about 4-6 of the holes out to 1/4 " directly in the center of the plate. Hope this helps



You could use muffler cement to temporary block the holes as well, if you decide you need some opened back up just drill them out.


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## Pellet rick (Jan 2, 2017)

Tails1 said:


> You could use muffler cement to temporary block the holes as well, if you decide you need some opened back up just drill them out.


Good idea and much easier then cutting tin like I did. Personally I think the 1/4" holes in the center are what makes it work but be careful to not open up too many holes. If you do it my cut the air pressure down to low. You want it to look like a blast furnace.


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## Nathaniel123 (Nov 21, 2017)

Call me cheap but a penny pluged both my holes in my 25 pdv under the wear plate just a dab of high temp rtv to hold in place so i dont suck them when cleanning and if i do suck them sure ill find a penny ( couch cushions) maybe under car seat that eat change desprete time leads to MacGyver


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## GaryJr (Nov 17, 2021)

Tails1 said:


> The combustion blower seems to be the only thing left. perhaps if you call Englander they could tell you a way to bench test it.


You could test with a manometer off the hose that runs from the side of the combustion motor(housing that it hooks to) and the pressure switch. Haven't found found what how many inches of water column it should  be though.


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