# firewood rack



## wesessiah

i was browsing for simple rack designs, and i came across this one
http://www.instructables.com/id/No-tools-firewood-rack/
basically you place cinder blocks about 8 feet apart, lay landscaping timbers across, and place a cut 2x4 in each hole of the cinder block for the side support. i think i may make a few of these. has anyone else come up with an extremely simple design that has worked well?


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## bogydave

Simple & sweet.
Should work well,
single rows dry  great with the good air circulation

Did you make some?


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## wesessiah

bogydave said:


> Simple & sweet.
> Should work well,
> single rows dry great with the good air circulation
> 
> Did you make some?


not yet. i think i'm going to make a couple this weekend and see how they are. taking down a red oak friday or saturday, so i guess i'll make them before i do that.


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## bogydave

Looks like you need to keep the bottom few rows full for ballast,
before stacking the ends very high. 

Post some pictures when you try them,
I bet others here will like the idea too.


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## Hills Hoard

I love it....I am going to try it...just wish i hadnt of thrown those cinder blocks out now...


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## lumbering on

tie some rope between the uprights, may given some more support at the top.


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## wesessiah

i'll definitely take some pictures. i've been thinking about how to support each 2x4 to get them perpendicular to the landscape timbers, without obstructing clearance for the splits. maybe stuffing some wood into the holes of the cinder block, and/or leave the 2x4s a little long and rig up another one to connect the two sides.


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## Woody Stover

I like it! 


Hills Hoard said:


> I love it....I am going to try it...just wish i hadnt of thrown those cinder blocks out now...


My hoarding disorder extends far beyond wood; Concrete blocks are only one of the many other things in my hoard stax.


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## Applesister

Never throw cinder blocks out! 
I use horse fencing wire to tie uprights together. The metal is super super strong and does not rust and it twists fairly easily. Tractor Supply sells the wire on roles. Its cheap compared to adding more 2x 4s. 
This is a great idea using cinder blocks.


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## jdp1152

Used a similar set up with cinderblocks and old steel pipes the previous owner left behind (see Avatar).  Built the stacks two deep.  I've since gone to pallets/Tposts and moved to back yard and off the driveway.  Was always concerned about stability being so high off the ground.  Sandy knocked it over as did my wife backing into it.  I've got some temporary kindling stacks like that for now, though I just used the excess cinder blocks for my ends (pictured below).

Pallets are free and TPosts are 5-6 bucks each.  I like that way much better.


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## RORY12553

I have used pallets on the bottom which i wish i put something under to get it off the ground along with metal posts instead of the wood...they were a few $ at home depot but figured they would last a while


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## MasterMech

I like it, but seems limited on how high you could go and keep it stable? I've recently constructed some 6' x 12' stacks very similar to DexterDay's and while space efficient (stacked in single rows - 8' x 12' = 96 sq ft/2 cords), it ain't cheap, especially compared to this idea. I'm building my racks in triplets and tying the 3 of them together via 2x4's on the ends so that any one individual rack cannot tip over.


These are Dexter's stacks, mine are/will be constructed very similar like.


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## My Oslo heats my home

Mine are very similar to dexters too. 2x4x12 in length and 2x4x6 in height. I don't quite have the same amount of space on the side of my garage but I do get plenty of sun and wind going through. I have 9 racks that are about 8 inches off the ground withpolyjust on the tops.

I do like the open cavity blocks idea too.


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## Woody Stover

I'm all about cheap. Right now, it's either free pallets on top of free dead Sassafras half-round splits, or just free dead Sassafras poles about 5" in diameter laid next to each other, Sav-style, two per row.


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## HatCityIAFF

I tried what *wesessiah* basically posted.  Went out and got three cinder blocks, and two 10' pieces of pressure treated 2x4's.  Spaced the cinder blocks apart, and the 2x4's went down on top.  Stacked the ends with splits criss cross like a regular stack, and just stacked 5' high in between.  Found this to be a little unstable, and expensive in the end, as each row would be roughly $12 between the blocks and the 10 footers. As or now my stacks are 5 rows x 40 ft long


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## Backwoods Savage

wesessiah said:


> i was browsing for simple rack designs, and i came across this one
> http://www.instructables.com/id/No-tools-firewood-rack/
> basically you place cinder blocks about 8 feet apart, lay landscaping timbers across, and place a cut 2x4 in each hole of the cinder block for the side support. i think i may make a few of these. *has anyone else come up with an extremely simple design that has worked well?*


 
Yes, as a matter of fact we have come upon a very simple design and the cost of doing it is about $0.00






No pallets needed either. No posts except for the saplings we cut and that is what the wood is stacked on. So this should fit your requirement of "an extremely simple design that has worked well." So far it has worked a bit over 50 years so we do not intent to attempt to improve on it. At least not yet.


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## Adkjake

That's one of those "duh, why didn't I think of that' things. There's a dozen or so cinder blocks over at the camp, that I've moved several times and keep wondering, what to do with them Duh, here we go. Perfect timing too, have a cord or two to stack over there.


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## jdp1152

Backwoods Savage said:


> Yes, as a matter of fact we have come upon a very simple design and the cost of doing it is about $0.00
> 
> View attachment 102903
> View attachment 102904
> View attachment 102905
> 
> 
> No pallets needed either. No posts except for the saplings we cut and that is what the wood is stacked on. So this should fit your requirement of "an extremely simple design that has worked well." So far it has worked a bit over 50 years so we do not intent to attempt to improve on it. At least not yet.


 

Those would look better with some T Posts


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## Backwoods Savage

jdp1152 said:


> Those would look better with some T Posts


 

No! T-posts are meant for building fences!


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## DexterDay

MasterMech said:


> I like it, but seems limited on how high you could go and keep it stable? I've recently constructed some 6' x 12' stacks very similar to DexterDay's and while space efficient (stacked in single rows - 8' x 12' = 96 sq ft/2 cords), it ain't cheap, especially compared to this idea. I'm building my racks in triplets and tying the 3 of them together via 2x4's on the ends so that any one individual rack cannot tip over.
> 
> 
> These are Dexter's stacks, mine are/will be constructed very similar like.



Yeah. They cost a little more to construct. But are very stable and will last quite a while.


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## My Oslo heats my home

DexterDay said:


> Yeah. They cost a little more to construct. But are very stable and will last quite a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 102983
> View attachment 102985


 
Mine are nearly the same in size and style, only exception is I used a piece of fencing wire to connect the tops together. I'm too lazy tonight to get off my ass to take a picture, sry.


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## PA. Woodsman

I think the fella that made the racks and posted it for us to see has a good idea, but he needs to take some of the money that he saved from it and at least buy a maul or a sledge and wedge so he can bust them rounds open-no splits on it at all lol! He's really fond of rounds I guess!  

I'm sure he just did that for the sake of the picture...maybe?!


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## new_wood

Nice, simple idea......I think I am going to give this one a shot.  In the pictures, it looks like the 2x4's are cut in half at an angle.  Is there a reason that they need to be cut at an angle?  Thanks for the input!


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## ridemgis

DexterDay said:


> Yeah. They cost a little more to construct. But are very stable and will last quite a while.
> 
> Dexter - where did you find those brackets holding everything together?
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 102983
> View attachment 102985


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## DexterDay

There are several brands. I used Rutland Stack-N-Store brackets. 

Just ad your own 2 x4's. I used 12' boards. By 4.5' tall. Cut at 18", its over 5/8 cord per rack. Or about 5 cord with all 8 full.


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## wesessiah

new_wood said:


> Nice, simple idea......I think I am going to give this one a shot. In the pictures, it looks like the 2x4's are cut in half at an angle. Is there a reason that they need to be cut at an angle? Thanks for the input!


 
i think he just did it for the look. i just got some plain ol' treated 10 foot 2x4s and cut them in half with a hack saw. i've got some compliments on it, and then they're less impressed when they realize how simple it is, lol. i tell them they should be more impressed by the simplicity.


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## lumbering on

jdp1152 said:


> Those would look better with some T Posts





Backwoods Savage said:


> No! T-posts are meant for building fences!


 
Why all the hate on the T-posts? In my yard, the subtle green of the post blends in better with the background bushes than a 2x4 wood rack.
Where are all the T-post defenders?


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## USMC80

I can't defend them, tried em and had to restack due to them failing


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## Backwoods Savage

lumbering on said:


> Why all the hate on the T-posts? In my yard, the subtle green of the post blends in better with the background bushes than a 2x4 wood rack.
> Where are all the T-post defenders?


 
Not sure where you get the idea I hate T-posts? I have lots of them and in several different lengths. I just don't use them for stacking wood as they are not needed. They cost enough that I would not want to use the dollars when I can well do without them. But hate?


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## lumbering on

Backwoods Savage said:


> Not sure where you get the idea I hate T-posts? I have lots of them and in several different lengths. I just don't use them for stacking wood as they are not needed. They cost enough that I would not want to use the dollars when I can well do without them. But hate?


 
No not you in particular, sorry for that. Just quoting the T-post reference. They're my new favorite speed stacking tool. Thought I picked up on an undercurrent of disdain for the green Ts in general here on hearth.


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## jeffesonm

Just a heads up for people who may be using this technique... I've had several cinder blocks split causing the end post to fall over and the end of the stack to collapse.  I've since switched to T-posts.


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## wesessiah

jeffesonm said:


> Just a heads up for people who may be using this technique... I've had several cinder blocks split causing the end post to fall over and the end of the stack to collapse. I've since switched to T-posts.


 
that was actually a concern of mine, so i stacked mine like a normal stack with only the bottom of the stack pushed against the 2x4s rather than flared out at the top. i really thought i was just wearing my tinfoil hat, but wasn't going to take a chance. maybe i should have should have mentioned my concern instead of thinking i was just being paranoid.


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## Plow Boy

wow wes. you in Lincolnton, im just down the road in iron station.


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## wesessiah

Plow Boy said:


> wow wes. you in Lincolnton, im just down the road in iron station.


 
nice to see somebody close by! most everybody is from michigan, the northeast, or pnw. btw, if you need some white oak, red oak and a little bit of some others (dogwood at least) i made a deal with a logging company and they left me more than i bargained for. it's between lincolnton and cherryville, and i'd guess there's close to 2 cords left, possibly more since a lot is over 2 feet wide. i'd like to get about another rick of it, but i don't see myself being able to finish it. if you have a truck i'd help you cut and haul as much as you want. some of it is just way too big for me to move by myself, plus i've been having to borrow my in laws truck. i can cut any of it fine with the ms361, just have trouble moving it. if you're interested let me know, i'm off all next week, and available all but the beginning of the week.


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## Plow Boy

man, I've got splitter will travel. count me in, I will pm you my contact info.


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## wesessiah

Plow Boy said:


> man, I've got splitter will travel. count me in, I will pm you my contact info.


 
excellent, i'll get in touch with you sometime tomorrow once you've sent me your info. i work tonight, so i'm about to go to bed since i got off this morning.


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## Plow Boy

alright sounds good, I am going out to cut up this cherry while the weather is cool. Later


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## Applesister

lumbering on said:


> Why all the hate on the T-posts? In my yard, the subtle green of the post blends in better with the background bushes than a 2x4 wood rack.
> Where are all the T-post defenders?


I gave the cinderblocks a try. I modified the idea by using white pine saplings. Poles around 4-5" diameter and wedged the poles in the upright position. Then wedged small blocks in the holes to shim the uprights. I used 10' saplings of Ironwood for the cross members. 
The result was a very stable rack. And not too unsightly. I'll post pictures.
Ive used T-posts because they are here and 'free'. They all work.

I have wood stacked with T-Posts, with cinderblocks, with pallets, between trees, I have racks made with the Rutland brackets.
Ive stacked in horsestalls, in chicken sheds, under the eaves of the house, in the gravel driveway. Out in a field, in the woods. And I have no definitive answers.


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## Applesister

I have a cousin who stacks single row down the length of a long field. Its probably the best method from what Ive read. He admits he has problems with spots staying in place but he doesnt mind restacking.
Im willing to try that too.


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## MasterMech

Applesister said:


> I have a cousin who stacks single row down the length of a long field. Its probably the best method from what Ive read. He admits he has problems with spots staying in place but he doesnt mind restacking.
> Im willing to try that too.


Single row stacks are the toughest to keep upright. I am currently trying out some 12'x6' stacks in racks.  Even in the racks I see the wood moving all over the place as it dries. No failures yet however.


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## lumbering on

I don't go over 4 feet on the single row stacks now that I had a domino like collapse last year


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## jdp1152

lumbering on said:


> Why all the hate on the T-posts? In my yard, the subtle green of the post blends in better with the background bushes than a 2x4 wood rack.
> Where are all the T-post defenders?


 
I use T Posts now.  I wasn't hating, I've just seen Savage take some pokes on em.


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## lumbering on

jdp1152 said:


> I use T Posts now. I wasn't hating, I've just seen Savage take some pokes on em.


 
I'm a convert. Rows are nice, neat and square.


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## rideau

I'll admit I bought one 16 foot long Woodhaven rack with top cover.  The quality is amazing.  It was expensive, but it will be there all my life.  Incredibly easy to stack on.  The posts are 4 feet high, but I stacked the wood an additional foot.  So, 5 feet x 16 feet by 1 2/3 feet  gives me a full cord on the rack.  Makes for incredibly quick, stable stacking of a cord of wood.  Woodhaven requires that the rack be placed on a concrete base (liability reasons, I'm sure).  I leveled the area and put down 24 inch concrete squares, about 2 inches thick. 
Going on my third year with the rack.  The cover if well designed, really good quality. covers the top row of wood.  I keep the rack about 50 feet from my house.  It cost me about as much as a cord of wood would cost.  But I get my wood on my property, so was willing to spend the money on the rack for the convenience, stability and time saved.  May get one more this Autumn.  Two will hold most of the firewood I use in a winter, dry and near my home. 

My other wood is stacked on ironwood saplings or pallets.  Cross stacked ends, slightly pyramidal (8 to 16 feet wide at the bottom, 6 to 14 feet wide at the top.  I have no topsoil so cannot use stakes at the end.  If I ever have a stack I am concerned about, I tie some ropes around end pieces and feed them along the top of the lower row, then cover.  ties the rack together well if there is a slope or if I have not enough pieces to make the ends stable.


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## HDRock

Ok, here is my version , 8' timbers 5' 2x4s ,3 blocks and some pieces stuck in the blocks , cuz I did not want them to splay outward ,or flop around while stacking.

I like the fact U can easily move this later, if U want to


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