# OMG I am really starting to hate my Austroflamm Pellet Stove.



## RancherPacker (Dec 5, 2015)

* It won't stay running past 44 mins. This problem started last evening wouldn't stay lit longer than 30 mins.  I went without heat over night. This morning fired it up, went out at about 44 mins. Jumped the low limit switch - fired it up went out at 15 mins......what now? I am guessing it's not the low limit switch, what do I test next?*


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## Bkins (Dec 5, 2015)

I guess I'll start by asking when the stove was last cleaned top to bottom since that helps to fix a lot of stoves.  I don't know your brand but will also ask when the door gaskets were last replaced since it looks like your stove is on the older side like both of mine.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 5, 2015)

I personally cleaned it this fall when I purchased it used. It was relatively clean but I did the total annual cleaning on it anyway since I am new to pellet stoves figured this would help me get to know my stove. When it came time (October) I fired it up and it has been running well with a bit of a learning curve on my part. It's a 1992 Austroflamm Integra. Now I can't keep it running after start up. Like I said I jumped the low limit switch and it still went out............I don't know when the door gaskets were replaced however they pass the dollar bill test and they look good.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 5, 2015)

Going to take the plates off inside vacuum and make sure those little square holes are not blocked.


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## Mark_ms (Dec 5, 2015)

Does it shutdown or just stop?


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## MadMax31 (Dec 5, 2015)

I dont follow low limit, as in loss of flame? Soot is an insulator, enough of it and all the heat is going out chimney. Cleaned in the fall means nothing after several bags. Hows the venting? Did you clean combustion fan? Low air flow would cause weak flame. I have no idea what an Astroflamme is, just spit-balling common combustion problems.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 5, 2015)

okay by low limit I mean the low limit snap disc,,,,I jumped that the flame would still die out but stove keeps feeding pellets. 
I now have done the leaf blower trick to the stove and vacuumed the interior. I did not take the inside back panels off yet to vacuum back there am hoping the leaf blower trick cleaned it enough (if that is the problem). I had back major surgery only 4 weeks ago so hard for me to get down there and work. I will if I have to but trying not to LOL.......currently have the stove re-started (7 mins) will post again in a few mins to say if it goes out or works as it should.


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## alternativeheat (Dec 5, 2015)

Hmmm Oct was the last full cleaning. Most of us clean our stoves weekly or every two at most and an extra full cleaning once per month. Or at least I do. I bet you need to do a full cleaning.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 5, 2015)

Yes last fall I thoroughly cleaned the stove took it all apart cleaned behind panels, fans motors etc everything possible. Then when I started burning it, I vacuumed the interior every 3 to 4 days clean the ash pan everyday and the burn pot. So here it is December 5 and the stove probably has had 30 ish bags of Bear Mountain pellets burned through it. Have I not done enough cleaning? Please don't tell me I need to disassemble the stove every week as I did in October. That's just too much took me hours to do that thoroughly.

PS still running at 24 mins


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## F4jock (Dec 5, 2015)

RancherPacker said:


> okay by low limit I mean the low limit snap disc,,,,I jumped that the flame would still die out but stove keeps feeding pellets.
> I now have done the leaf blower trick to the stove and vacuumed the interior. I did not take the inside back panels off yet to vacuum back there am hoping the leaf blower trick cleaned it enough (if that is the problem). I had back major surgery only 4 weeks ago so hard for me to get down there and work. I will if I have to but trying not to LOL.......currently have the stove re-started (7 mins) will post again in a few mins to say if it goes out or works as it should.


You can't do halfway cleanings and expect them to work or help in diagnosis. It's either all in or you might as well not bother.

As well, until you get comfortable with your stove I'd start by  cleaning it weekly and, if performance warrants, slowly move the cleanings out until you realize the limits of the stove and pellet combination. 30 bags w/o a cleaning is way too much.

As for cleaning time, I can clean my Harman in half an hour. Took longer at first but you get good at it after you establish a routine.

Finally, if you don't have stove-specific cleaning instructions, get them.


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## alternativeheat (Dec 5, 2015)

I don't know your stove but often there are clean outs etc., that need attention more often than every two months. 30 bags is almost perfect timing for failure if you haven't been cleaning properly. I have no clue what you missed, can tell you all about a Harman P61 though !


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## F4jock (Dec 5, 2015)

alternativeheat said:


> I don't know your stove but often there are clean outs etc., that need attention more often than every two months. 30 bags is almost perfect timing for failure if you haven't been cleaning properly. I have no clue what you missed, can tell you all about a Harman P61 though !


As Alternative points out, time alone is not a good metric by which to schedule cleaning. Pellet throughput is far better, and I've found that to be very pellet-quality dependent.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 5, 2015)

Hmmm Oct was the last full cleaning. Most of us clean our stoves weekly or every two at most and an extra full cleaning once per month. Or at least I do. I bet you need to do a full cleaning.  ........................................

What is it you do exactly every week? and what is the extra full cleaning?

PS 30 minutes stove went out......no pellets kept feeding this time after flame died out. OOPS because I did not get up and turn the control box to off now at 40 minutes..... pellets are feeding into the burn pot with no flame....guess I will take those panels off and clean back there now.


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## alternativeheat (Dec 5, 2015)

RancherPacker said:


> Hmmm Oct was the last full cleaning. Most of us clean our stoves weekly or every two at most and an extra full cleaning once per month. Or at least I do. I bet you need to do a full cleaning.  ........................................
> 
> What is it you do exactly every week? and what is the extra full cleaning?
> 
> PS 30 minutes stove went out......no pellets kept feeding this time after flame died out.


Somewhat irrelevant to your stove , as I said I don't know your stove. I clean, scrape and vacuum the burn pot and the full inside of the stove including scraping down the heat exchanger. On the Harman there are various access hatches ( yours will be in different spots I'm sure) to clean out the air tube and igniter compartment below the burn pot. Access hatch to the vent and ESP, give that a brushing and clean the combustion fan blades . Monthly I add the fines box and distribution blower fins. I used to do my vertical vent every ton but have found with my 4 inch venting I can go two tons with pretty ashy pellets..

So many times I wouldn't venture a guess as to how many, people come here as you are and they think cleaning is a scrape and vacuum what they can see through the front door of the stove. St Croix's have their own little hidden passages, inserts another, I's 100% sure your Astro another all it's own. There are certain expectations to be met in cleaning. Not met, the stove shuts down or otherwise rebels !! in the case of Harman we are lucky, it has to be about the most documented stove line for routine maintenance of any brand out there. But if you do a search you might find videos on yours too.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 5, 2015)

I guess what I am asking is do you totally remove the motors/fans every week? Or just clean them in place? Then remove them once a year?


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## F4jock (Dec 5, 2015)

RancherPacker said:


> I guess what I am asking is do you totally remove the motors/fans every week? Or just clean them in place? Then remove them once a year?



No. I clean somewhat like Alternative but I only clean the fans and fines box once a year and my stove works fine.

Do you have OEM cleaning instructions? Also sounds funny that you can have no fire but still feed pellets but I don't know your stove.

There is a YouTube video on how to clean your stove.


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## MadMax31 (Dec 5, 2015)

Flame went out, feed stopped. If low limit is still jumped you have problems elsewhere. You should pay attention to the flame when its running to see if its lazy or jumping around the burn pot. Do you have different pellets to try as well?


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## alternativeheat (Dec 5, 2015)

RancherPacker said:


> I guess what I am asking is do you totally remove the motors/fans every week? Or just clean them in place? Then remove them once a year?


On my P61 I don't have to pull motors, I can access the fan blades without dismounting them. And really if I'm swishing out the horizontaal exhaust chamber of the stove anyway, the combustion fan blade is right there, I just brush it off while there. But that is one of the beauties and reasons why I bought the P61 in the first place. Ease of cleaning.

I just watched an Integra cleaning procedure on You Tube, it was an insert. Is yours an insert ?


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## RancherPacker (Dec 5, 2015)

no free standing, i think i can clean the blades as well without dismounting


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## FirepotPete (Dec 5, 2015)

F4jock said:


> Also sounds funny that you can have no fire but still feed pellets but I don't know your stove.



A lot of stoves will do that as a safety feature. It assures that no burning pellets/fuel in the auger can cause a back burn to the hopper and start a big fire.


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## F4jock (Dec 5, 2015)

Interesting. 

My Harman does not do that by design. Of course it is designed differently than the OP's stove but if my Harman did that I would assume some problem with the ignition system.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 5, 2015)

OKAY here is final test.........took the interior back plates out gently brushed them/vacuum. Brushed/vac the entire interior of stove. Brushed HE tubes, lifted rods and cleaned rectangular holes behind them with coat hanger/vac scraped cleaned kissed hugged Cleaned everything possible without dismounting fans/motors. Did the leaf blower trick. Stove is spotless What more can I do??  5 mins into start up - - lets see if she runs longer than 30 - 40 mins now


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## alternativeheat (Dec 5, 2015)

RancherPacker said:


> OKAY here is final test.........took the interior back plates out gently brushed them/vacuum. Brushed/vac the entire interior of stove. Brushed HE tubes, lifted rods and cleaned rectangular holes behind them with coat hanger/vac scraped cleaned kissed hugged Cleaned everything possible without dismounting fans/motors. Did the leaf blower trick. Stove is spotless What more can I do??  5 mins into start up - - lets see if she runs longer than 30 - 40 mins now


Indeed, let us know.


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## FirepotPete (Dec 5, 2015)

F4jock said:


> Interesting.
> 
> My Harman does not do that by design. Of course it is designed differently than the OP's stove but if my Harman did that I would assume some problem with the ignition system.



Right, your Harman feeds the fuel from the bottom so no concern of a back burn the way that stoves that feed from the top at an angle have.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 5, 2015)

NO LUCK, it did not work now at 30 mins the flame is out the glowing pellets are cooling stove is NOT WORKING *groan*


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## F4jock (Dec 5, 2015)

OK, I'm trying to understand how your stove operates. Is it a fully automatic model with programmable times dates etc or is it manual? I can't find a user's manual online so far.

Do you have one?


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## alternativeheat (Dec 5, 2015)

RancherPacker said:


> NO LUCK, it did not work now at 30 mins the flame is out the glowing pellets are cooling stove is NOT WORKING *groan*


Again I don't know your stove. In the insert, behind the exchange where you saw slots that you ran wire through, that led to a chamber that needs cleaning. And I assume from there it goes out the venting. So in the insert video, the guy didn't stop with the slots I guess is what I'm saying. NO idea if this pertains to your stove or not.


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## F4jock (Dec 5, 2015)

There was also a guy here last year, Flammam, who seems to know a lot about your model. Try PM'ing him.

I also searched your model stove on this site. It seems that your problem is quite common to this year. Several people have curated by replacing the EEPROM. Try searching Austroflamm 1992 stove and see what you find.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 5, 2015)

Thank you for helping me, I am at my wits end trying to figure this out. Stove is completely manual only. I will see what I can find out on the EEPROM


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## F4jock (Dec 5, 2015)

Completely manual? So no automatic ignition? You feed pellets based on what? How do you control heat? 

Puzzled!


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## Mark_ms (Dec 5, 2015)

F4jock said:


> Completely manual? So no automatic ignition? You feed pellets based on what? How do you control heat?
> 
> Puzzled!


He means a manual start-up i.e he has to light the pellets then turn the stove on.
Old Austroflamm's have a one rheostat switch that calls for more heat thereby adjusting fans and pellet feed according to setting.


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## Mark_ms (Dec 5, 2015)

RancherPacker said:


> Hmmm Oct was the last full cleaning. Most of us clean our stoves weekly or every two at most and an extra full cleaning once per month. Or at least I do. I bet you need to do a full cleaning.  ........................................
> 
> What is it you do exactly every week? and what is the extra full cleaning?
> 
> PS 30 minutes stove went out......no pellets kept feeding this time after flame died out. OOPS because I did not get up and turn the control box to off now at 40 minutes..... _*pellets are feeding into the burn pot with no flame*._...guess I will take those panels off and clean back there now.


According to the manual this indicates your circuit  board is probably gone you need to get it rebuilt ($250) or a new one for close to $400


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## Flammam (Dec 5, 2015)

Someone call me??
I read through the thread, it seems you have done a god job of cleaning the stove. I only remove my combustion blower once a year to clean it and I run about 4-5 tons a year.Other than that I do a thorough cleaning ever ton which is pretty much what you have done.

A couple questions:

Where is your temperature knob set?
Does the combustion blower stop or slow down and then the stove goes out?
You can remove the black panel on the left hand side and see the combustion blower running.
Does the stove stop feeding pellets and then the stove go out?
 I know you jumped the low limit switch and the stove shut down but continued to feed pellets. Thats what it should do the low limit shuts down the feed auger if the temperature doesn't reach the setpont.


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## F4jock (Dec 5, 2015)

Flammam said:


> Someone call me??
> I read through the thread, it seems you have done a god job of cleaning the stove. I only remove my combustion blower once a year to clean it and I run about 4-5 tons a year.Other than that I do a thorough cleaning ever ton which is pretty much what you have done.
> 
> A couple questions:
> ...



Hey guy! Thanks for dropping by!  We'really not familiar with this type of stove so I'm gonna sit back and learn!


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## F4jock (Dec 5, 2015)

Thanks for the input! You and Flammam seem to know lots about these units, which I don't, so I'm gonna back out and learn from you two.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 5, 2015)

Where is your temperature knob set?
Does the combustion blower stop or slow down and then the stove goes out?
You can remove the black panel on the left hand side and see the combustion blower running.
Does the stove stop feeding pellets and then the stove go out?
I know you jumped the low limit switch and the stove shut down but continued to feed pellets. Thats what it should do the low limit shuts down the feed auger if the temperature doesn't reach the setpont.

I ususally set the temp knob at medium -middle
the combustion blower stays on does not slow down before stove goes out
panel is already removed
yes i think it stops feeding pellets then goes out from lack of fuel (one notable observation, when the stove cools down if I have not got up and shut the stove down via the rocker button - the pellets will begin to feed again!) but not burn as the stove is out.
okay another notable observation after some pain pills and a nap LOL - - the CONVECTION blower is NOT turning?? could this tell the stove it is over heating and therefore shut down the pellet feed?

I do have the stove running again right now without the shutting down  problem (why I don't know) As I said I am a newb this season to pellet stoves so it's all new to me. It probably is possible the convection fan has not been working all along?? I took off the right side front panels and noticed it not turning.
Is there a way to use a cord and wire it direct like you can an auger motor so I can see if it is BAD?

Thank you all so very much for helping me I intensely dislike being cold...especially while recuperating from Surgery


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## Flammam (Dec 5, 2015)

The stove will shut down if the convection blower isnt functioning. The overtemp switch will trip. The overtemp switch is located on the right hand side of the stove by the end of the convection blower there are two wires one of which is yellow I cant remember the color of the other one. If the stove overtemps this switch opens then the auger will shut down.

The convection blower is pretty easy to remove it comes out through the left hand side of the stove there are 2 -5/16 hex screws on each end that hold it in and the two wires that go to the main terminal board in the back Terminal 5 and 2. These motors run a bronze bushing on the end oppesete  of the motor a couple drops of oil on this bushing every year.It might be as simple as a pellet dropped down there somewhere and is binding the squirrel cage up. 

This more than likely the problem. the stopping of the pellet feeding a different times is a reflection of how long it takes to trip the overtemp switch.


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## Flammam (Dec 5, 2015)

You can wire it directly to test it by disconnecting the terminals at the terminal board and jumpering them to power. I can send you the pdf of the manual if you would like. It has all the wiring diagrams


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## F4jock (Dec 5, 2015)

Nice job of observation BTW! You have no backup heat source?


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## RancherPacker (Dec 5, 2015)

Thank you all again and again. I do normally have back up heat (propane) but alas that stove is also malfunctioning and I cannot work on propane myself and it is under warranty still. The dealer will be out to fix it on Tuesday. Until then I am praying my pellet stove continues to run (as it is now) without tripping that switch again. I don't know why it decided to burn without going out this time but it's been on all afternoon now without the convection fan working. Maybe if I keep the heat med-lo I can skate by til we figure it out.

It is late and dark now so I will continue to test the pellet stove tomorrow as I have done too much on my back already today     Please do send that wiring diagram pdf to ac_toon@hotmail.com


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## F4jock (Dec 5, 2015)

RancherPacker said:


> Thank you all again and again. I do normally have back up heat (propane) but alas that stove is also malfunctioning and I cannot work on propane myself and it is under warranty still. The dealer will be out to fix it on Tuesday. Until then I am praying my pellet stove continues to run (as it is now) without tripping that switch again. I don't know why it decided to burn without going out this time but it's been on all afternoon now without the convection fan working. Maybe if I keep the heat med-lo I can skate by til we figure it out.
> 
> It is late and dark now so I will continue to test the pellet stove tomorrow as I have done too much on my back already today     Please do send that wiring diagram pdf to ac_toon@hotmail.com



I think Flammam and Mark scared it!


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## Flammam (Dec 5, 2015)

Keeping the stove running on low will keep the high limit switch from tripping. Sent the service manual.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 5, 2015)

Okay yes run on LOW  will check the convection blower tomorrow and see if I need a new one or more mystery!


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## Mark_ms (Dec 5, 2015)

Flamman asked the correct question, I had made the assumption that the convection was working.
Good detective work


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## RancherPacker (Dec 5, 2015)

Yeh I did not realize the convection blower was not working until I was doing further research online and came across maybe it was the high limit switch so removed the panel to access the snap disc for hi limit and lo and behold there was the blower just sitting there doing NOTHING.


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## lakensea (Dec 6, 2015)

Keep in mind that the convection blower does not come on until the startup sequence has finished, which is about 10 - 16 minutes, depending upon which EPROM your unit has. 

I have the same stove, purchased new, and a newer RIKA Integra purchased new a few years ago.  From reading posts here about other stoves, I believe the Austroflamm/RIKA stoves are more basic, easier to operate & diagnose that many others.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 6, 2015)

lakensea said:


> Keep in mind that the convection blower does not come on until the startup sequence has finished, which is about 10 - 16 minutes, depending upon which EPROM your unit has.
> 
> I have the same stove, purchased new, and a newer RIKA Integra purchased new a few years ago.  From reading posts here about other stoves, I believe the Austroflamm/RIKA stoves are more basic, easier to operate & diagnose that many others.



ahhh ok good to know... if i wire the convection blower direct though it will run immediately right?


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## lakensea (Dec 6, 2015)

Yes, but I would only do that to test the motor.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 6, 2015)

yeh test see if it even works at all


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## Flammam (Dec 6, 2015)

If it seems to run slow or not run at all pull it out and clean it up and lubricate the bearings on both ends of the squirrel cage fan. Those motors are pretty robust I don't think I have ever heard of one going bad.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 6, 2015)

okay will do that


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## F4jock (Dec 6, 2015)

RancherPacker said:


> yeh test see if it even works at all


Try a spray electronic cleaner if you can get it into the windings.


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## Mt Bob (Dec 7, 2015)

http://pelletstoverepair.com/IntegraTechManual.pdf    I left you a link to repair manual.Hey flam,temp switch at the combustion blower is the high switch,the one by the convection blower is the low switch.Try jumping that switch.Also,if does not work,check for voltage at that switch.But,as you have had other problems before,I suspect you need the main board.Lucky for you someone (Joe) is selling rebuilt ones on ebay,cheap.I reccomend you get the last availible programming,you will like it.Good luck.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 7, 2015)

bob bare said:


> http://pelletstoverepair.com/IntegraTechManual.pdf    I left you a link to repair manual.Hey flam,temp switch at the combustion blower is the high switch,the one by the convection blower is the low switch.Try jumping that switch.Also,if does not work,check for voltage at that switch.But,as you have had other problems before,I suspect you need the main board.Lucky for you someone (Joe) is selling rebuilt ones on ebay,cheap.I reccomend you get the last availible programming,you will like it.Good luck.


I can't find Joe's rebuild main boards on ebay...can you link to them please. What is the latest programing? my current board has V3.5 B


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## Mt Bob (Dec 7, 2015)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rebuilt-Aus...355361?hash=item2a5c21f3a1:g:Kn0AAOSwI-BWQ10V   for some reason it does not post as a link,but you can get there. $180.00 is what they are listed for.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 8, 2015)

ok i saw those I just didn't see the name Joe anywhere so didn't know they are the ones you mean.
 thank you


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## Mt Bob (Dec 8, 2015)

I am pretty sure that it is Joe selling them,same town in CA.Also I think you already have the latest prom,but a new one will come in board.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 8, 2015)

yikes I hate to spend $180 without knowing it is my main board for sure. Is there anyway I can tell? 

Could it be the convection blower since it is not working? Or will the main board fix that too?

The stove seems to be working fine right now even without the convection blower turning. I don't know why it was going out for 2 days and not staying burning.

Some of the problems you may have seen about my stove before was pure operator error since I am new to pellet stoves and I had no manual. The only thing I know for sure is 2 days ago pellets would stop entering after anywhere from 15 mins to 44 mins, and the flames would go out then it seemed when the stove would cool down the pellets would start again and pile up because of no fire. A few times I turned it off at the user control box so the pellets didn't restart  falling in. I didn't catch on at first that the pellets would start again if the stove rocker button was left on.

Does it matter if the stove runs without the convection blower? It seems to be doing fine now. My son-in-law says the convection blower on his 1991 Lopi pellet has not worked in a long time and he isn't going to fix it.

I really appreciate all the help. One of these days I won't be such a novice LOL All this troubleshooting etc will certainly help that.


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## Mark_ms (Dec 8, 2015)

RancherPacker said:


> yikes I hate to spend $180 without knowing it is my main board for sure. Is there anyway I can tell?
> 
> Could it be the convection blower since it is not working? Or will the main board fix that too?
> 
> ...


The board advertised is from Joe. here is a link to his website. He is a really good guy and very knowledgeable Give him a call.He will be able to talk you through it.
Here is a link to a thread about Joe
I don't know why you would want to run your stove without the convection fan properly working..


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## maple1 (Dec 8, 2015)

Did you test the convection blower like you mentioned you would?


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## F4jock (Dec 8, 2015)

Mark_ms said:


> The board advertised is from Joe. here is a link to his website. He is a really good guy and very knowledgeable Give him a call.He will be able to talk you through it.
> Here is a link to a thread about Joe
> I don't know why you would want to run your stove without the convection fan properly working..



He should do things right or not use the stove at all. There is flame in the stove. That needs to be respected. The possible consequences of improper operation are nothing to be ignored. This is nothing to be lazy or frugal about!


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## Mt Bob (Dec 8, 2015)

An integra has to have the blower otherwise will overheat and shut down,usually on any setting above 1/4.Lets try to make it easier   1-does fan spin free? 2-hook fan to house power,does it run?  3 if it does,jumper the low temp switch and see if fan runs and auger keeps working,  4-if not,check for voltage to the low temp switch and fan.Also make sure you did not knock wires off air sensor,and it is clean.Do all this before you call joe or you will prop make him mad.Also 180 bucks is dirt cheap for this board,thinking about getting one for a spare.


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## Flammam (Dec 8, 2015)

bob bare said:


> http://pelletstoverepair.com/IntegraTechManual.pdf    I left you a link to repair manual.Hey flam,temp switch at the combustion blower is the high switch,the one by the convection blower is the low switch.Try jumping that switch.Also,if does not work,check for voltage at that switch.But,as you have had other problems before,I suspect you need the main board.Lucky for you someone (Joe) is selling rebuilt ones on ebay,cheap.I reccomend you get the last availible programming,you will like it.Good luck.




I am pretty sure the temperature switch by the combustion blower is the low temp switch(the temp needs to exceed the setpoint of the switch to continue operation) and the switch by the convection blower is the high temp switch(If the temperature exceeds the setpoint of the switch the stove shuts down). The convection blower needs to be tested first and the wiring needs to be checked before replacing the control board. If the high limit switch was tripped the stove would never fire up as it controls the auger motor.


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## Mt Bob (Dec 8, 2015)

You are right,sorry,was late and was tired.By the way Bailys has a complete auto ignitor setup on ebay right now,but 300 dollars!!


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## steamguy (Dec 8, 2015)

I'm a little late to this thread, but I had an Austroflamm for 14 years and had very little trouble with it. There are some good points above which bear restating:
1. the convection blower MUST be running for the stove to operate, they are the quietest stoves ever made, but they do take a bit of lubrication on the blower bearings every so often. In my old stove, it took 11 to 13 minutes before the convection blower started. If the blower doesn't start, the stove will shut down within a few minutes. That's for your safety; I wouldn't recommend trying to bypass that.
2. Cleaning - nowhere did I see mentioned that you removed the rectangular plate on the right side of the stove at the bottom front and cleaned the air plenum behind it. That plate accesses the combustion air plenum for the fire, and it can get clogged by ash, forcing the stove to shut down.
3. testing - when you test, have the stove unplugged, and the wires to the control board removed from any fans you're testing. These control boards are analog and can get fried easily by having the wrong voltage connected to the wrong place.
4. Surge protection - because these stoves have an analog control system, they are suseptible to voltage spikes. Get a good surge protector on it if you don't have one already. One good brand that I've used in 30 years of working on video equipment is Tripp-Lite.

The Austroflamm Integra was the very best stove I've ever owned. Would have another one if they were still making them to the same quality standards.
Hope that helps you out.


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## Mark_ms (Dec 12, 2015)

Bump
Just wondering where the OP was in getting his fan working


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## skibumm100 (Dec 13, 2015)

Sorry....late to the party. Didn't get the invite from the Austroflamm Club.  I don't have anything to add regarding the troubleshooting. Only stopped by to outline my cleaning schedule and to recommend having some spare parts handy. You don't want to get stuck without some parts. These stoves are pretty simple but they require a few components to operate. I have a spare control board, a spare air flow sensor and some spare low and high limit switches. I need to get a spare auger motor. I also have spare fans, burn pot, ash pan and cast plates because I parted out my buddy's dead Integra. He had bent up his auger real bad and the auger motor was frozen to the shaft.

I do a complete teardown in the fall (I should do it in the spring but I'm a procrastinator) and I do weekly cleanings on Sunday's during the season. The major cleaning is pulling the stove out of the fireplace (mine's an insert), cleaning the flue, pulling both fans and giving them a good cleaning. Lubing what bearings/bushings that I can reach, cleaning the circuit cards with electronics cleaner, air flow sensor and board, too. My sensor gets nasty black because of my preheated outside air set-up but it still seams to work fine. I pull the little cover on the right side and clean out the back chamber behind the tubes. Brush the dirty air passages and tube exteriors, replace the insulator sheet for the lower panel, Neversieze the studs and bolts for the cast iron panels and them put it all together. Takes a couple hours because cleaning my flue is a little awkward. Includes setting up my fall protection ropes, harness, ect.

The weekly is just getting out the shop vac w/ HEPA filter, pull the cast plates, brush and vac the tubes and dirty air passages, scrap the burnpot, vac out under the burnpot, clean the glass, put it back together, throw a small pile of pellets in the pot, gel it, light it and let her rip for another week. I will also vac out the fines in the hopper if it's close to empty. Weekly cleaning takes maybe 20 minutes once you get the hang of it. 

To light my stove I put about half a burn pot full of pellets, squirt some gel on it, light it, close the door. I let it burn for about five minutes without starting the stove, then flip the switch. If I don't wait a few minutes sometimes it will blow the fire out before it gets going. If I let it get started before hitting it with the combustion fan it seems to take off quicker. Mine has been dead reliable. I bought it non-working from the PO. I didn't change or adjust anything but the pots on the control board. All it needed was a good cleaning. That was two seasons and six or seven tons ago.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 13, 2015)

okay here is an interesting new CLUE: I know most of this is obvious to you experienced pellet stove owners but like I said I am a beginner. This morning the stove had been running on 1/4 setting (low) for several days with no problems. I remembered  I should burn it on high for 30 mins or so to keep creosote burned off. I turned the stove up to high and low and behold the convection fan was turning. YAY Then 20 minutes later whole shove shuts down while still  on high ----darn it! So that has to mean something. I turned it back to low restarted and now stove won't stay burning again. It shuts down again within a few minutes. Going to let it cool way down and try restarting it again. This is what it was doing last week (not staying burning) I don't know why it actually finally stayed working for almost a week until today when I cranked the control knob to high. Nothing is jumped stove is wired as it should be. I did jump the snap disks last week and it made no difference that I could see. The fan did not turn (although I don't think I cranked it to high) the stove still shut down anywhere from 15 to 45 mins. Then after a few days of relighting trying to keep it burning it just started burning as normal again - except no convection fan.

As far as cleaning the air plenum I am not sure where that is. I may have cleaned it and not known that what it is called. I did undo the nut on the round plate covering an air chamber in the lower right interior of stove - it was clean and not clogged but brushed and vacuumed it anyway. I also used a can of air gently on the air sensor.


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## maple1 (Dec 13, 2015)

Maybe the fan only worked for a few minutes, then stopped again, then it shut down?

So, again - did you test the convection blower like you mentioned you would?


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## RancherPacker (Dec 13, 2015)

I do not have an ohm meter but I did wire the convection blower direct but it tripped the breaker on house current. So not sure I did it right. facing stove on left side there is 2 male prongs on the convection fan I removed the female connectors and wired the male end to a cord and plugged it in nothing was touching as I taped it up. It did nothing to the convection fan well I mean it did not turn but just tripped the house breaker. I have not taken the convection fan out yet. Have been running ragged last few days and my back surgery is still fresh. I did jump both snap disc and it did not make the convection fan turn or anything.


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## Flammam (Dec 13, 2015)

Here's a picture of the convection blower. There are no terminals on it the wire go directly to the terminal board on the right rear of the stove. 
	

		
			
		

		
	





Here's the only thing I can find with male terminals over here that's the low temperature or proof of fire switch on the combustion blower.


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## Mark_ms (Dec 13, 2015)

If you connect your convection directly to 110 volt power make sure you unplug your stove from wall.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 13, 2015)

Okay yes I did unplug stove and here is a picture of the male /female terminals on my convection blower. The stove is burning when i took this pic and neither of the fans (that little black one or the large squirrel cage type) for the convection blower are turning. The exhaust one is working though.

Is the convection fan supposed to turn when stove is on low? because if I turn the stove up to high it will start running. However that is when stove shuts it's self off/down too. I jumped both snap disks and it still will shut off if on high.


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## skibumm100 (Dec 13, 2015)

RancherPacker said:


> Okay yes I did unplug stove and here is a picture of the male /female terminals on my convection blower. The stove is burning when i took this pic and neither of the fans (that little black one or the large squirrel cage type) for the convection blower are turning. The exhaust one is working though.
> 
> Is the convection fan supposed to turn when stove is on low? because if I turn the stove up to high it will start running. However that is when stove shuts it's self off/down too. I jumped both snap disks and it still will shut off if on high.



Yes, the convection fan should run regardless of what heat setting you have it set on. That's the whole point of a pellet stove, pretty much. The fan doesn't start up immediately when turned on. Refer to the manual for the steps and duration of the start-up cycle. There's no mistaking it when it turns on. It's fairly loud to me, but I sit 6 feet from the stove. It sounds like there's a problem with your convection fan or motor. Pull it out and look it over. It should spin freely. You could try lubing the bushings to see if it helps. If it spins freely and still pops your breaker, you have a bad fan motor. Running a pellet stove without a convection blower is like trying to bake a cake with an oven with no door. If the fan is bad you want to get that changed out pronto. You could end up causing problems with your control board, unless it has some sort of protection circuit.

BTW, my stove has the terminals on the motor like yours.


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## Flammam (Dec 13, 2015)

Ok You need to pull out the convection blower and clean it up and oil the bushings. I had a problem a few years back where the convection blower would slow down at low settings. Cleaning and oiling the blower fixed it right up. The blower speed is controlled by the control board lower voltages to the blower= lower speed. At low speeds the voltage isnt high enough to get the fan started, that is why at higher setting the blower will start up then die after a while once it warms up. Clean off all the fins on the squirrel cage you will shocked at how much dust/dirt it can hold.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 13, 2015)

okay.....it only popped the breaker when i wired those terminals direct...not any other time.
My schedule is slowing down now I will have time to pull the conv fan and clean it up and lubricate. I hope I can get it working properly again. I did order a new rebuilt control board from Joe on eBay so will have one on hand if or when needed. I want to get a good surge protector installed before I plug the new board in though.


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## Mt Bob (Dec 13, 2015)

RancherPacker said:


> Okay yes I did unplug stove and here is a picture of the male /female terminals on my convection blower. The stove is burning when i took this pic and neither of the fans (that little black one or the large squirrel cage type) for the convection blower are turning. The exhaust one is working though.
> 
> Is the convection fan supposed to turn when stove is on low? because if I turn the stove up to high it will start running. However that is when stove shuts it's self off/down too. I jumped both snap disks and it still will shut off if on high.[/





RancherPacker said:


> Okay yes I did unplug stove and here is a picture of the male /female terminals on my convection blower. The stove is burning when i took this pic and neither of the fans (that little black one or the large squirrel cage type) for the convection blower are turning. The exhaust one is working though.
> 
> Is the convection fan supposed to turn when stove is on low? because if I turn the stove up to high it will start running. However that is when stove shuts it's self off/down too. I jumped both snap disks and it still will shut off if on high.


OK Reading the post I am replying to,you seem to think you have 3 fans.OK forget all this,Slight chance your air flow sensor is bad,but very slight.order a new/used,rebuilt control board and you will be happy.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 13, 2015)

bob bare said:


> OK Reading the post I am replying to,you seem to think you have 3 fans.OK forget all this,Slight chance your air flow sensor is bad,but very slight.order a new/used,rebuilt control board and you will be happy.


Thanks for helping me, yes I did order a rebuilt control board from Joe on ebay. Will put a surge protector in before I install it though.


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## Mt Bob (Dec 14, 2015)

Well I work on these part time,am an auto mechanic,have run one of these stoves for many years.I still run my original control board/but 2 years ago it screwed up,soldered in 3 caps and has been running still.Joe sold me the updated prom,works great.The two temp switches would cause constant problems,The airflow sensor is hard to diagnos,but goes bad rarely,mostky if you bummped it.dropped it etc.You have one of the best stoves ever made,take care of it and it will take care of you.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 14, 2015)

bob bare said:


> Well I work on these part time,am an auto mechanic,have run one of these stoves for many years.I still run my original control board/but 2 years ago it screwed up,soldered in 3 caps and has been running still.Joe sold me the updated prom,works great.The two temp switches would cause constant problems,The airflow sensor is hard to diagnos,but goes bad rarely,mostky if you bummped it.dropped it etc.You have one of the best stoves ever made,take care of it and it will take care of you.




How did you know you needed to solder in 3 caps? By the 2 temp switches do u mean the high limit and the low limit snap discs?


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## RancherPacker (Dec 14, 2015)

Just updating what is happening with my stove. I have one of Joe's rebuilt boards coming. I have hospital grade GTT  Electronics Surge Supressor. Today I jumped the snap disc (again) that is at the convection blower = no change stove still went out after 30ish minutes. Then I left that jump on and jumped the snap disc nearest the exhaust blower = no change stove still went out after 30 ish minutes. Then I removed the convection side jump and stove ran as normal. (probably just luck) after a few hours I turned stove to highest setting  and it went out after 20 minutes. Now I have the jumps all removed. Hoping to get the stove running on low again. Tomorrow I hope to remove the convection fan and clean and oil it up in preparation of installing Joe's rebuilt main board when it arrives soon. 

I really appreciate everyone helping me with troubleshooting. THANKS!


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## pinetop12 (Dec 15, 2015)

RancherPacker said:


> Just updating what is happening with my stove. I have one of Joe's rebuilt boards coming. I have hospital grade GTT  Electronics Surge Supressor. Today I jumped the snap disc (again) that is at the convection blower = no change stove still went out after 30ish minutes. Then I left that jump on and jumped the snap disc nearest the exhaust blower = no change stove still went out after 30 ish minutes. Then I removed the convection side jump and stove ran as normal. (probably just luck) after a few hours I turned stove to highest setting  and it went out after 20 minutes. Now I have the jumps all removed. Hoping to get the stove running on low again. Tomorrow I hope to remove the convection fan and clean and oil it up in preparation of installing Joe's rebuilt main board when it arrives soon.
> 
> I really appreciate everyone helping me with troubleshooting. THANKS!



 Hopefully   this does not muddy  the waters .  Concerning the Convection fan.  If you've  yet to remove the fan ....Tracing the wire back to the control board is a painstaking hassle . Since you'll be taking the fan out once a year to clean ,... cutting the wires and   reattaching  with this or similar will save you  some time and effort   http://www.lowes.com/pd_136010-12704-770310_1z0yt4q__?productId=3363058&pl=1    At least that what I've done. Works for me.  Hope this helps and good luck


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## RancherPacker (Dec 15, 2015)

GOOD NEWS.......It appears entirely possible that my stove was in LOGIC LOCK. I ran across the posts about someone having an Austroflamm with Logic Lock and did the unplug it 30 mins to unscramble the analog computer. So I figured I would give it a try. Can' t hurt and easy to do. RESULTS = convection fan back to working as it should and no shut down on higher setting anymore. YAY. Now here's to hoping it stays fixed! I do plan to take the convection fan out today for a good cleaning as long as I have the panels off. And of course if it stays fixed Joe's rebuild board will be great o have on hand just in case.

Pinetop12's suggestion of splicing the wires is a great tip thanks to all


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## Mark_ms (Dec 15, 2015)

Well that is great news.
I would put the new circuit board in when you get it from Joe and use the old one for backup. The new one would have the latest Eprom and your stove will run more efficiently.
If you use the terminals as Pinetop suggested put a male/female on the fan side and a male/female on the terminal side the. Do one wire at a time. 

What is a little disconcerting is that it seems you did not unplug your stove when working on it. Had you done so you may have found the problem earlier.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 15, 2015)

oh I don't know how you think that. .......I do unplug it every time, It just doesn't take 30 minutes to jump the snap disks which is about all i have done except the original cleaning last fall.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 15, 2015)

Convection Fan removed cleaned to pristine with soft brush and vacuum then each fin with a Q-tip and vacuum. Oiled bushings both ends. Re-installed and fired up. Convection fan came on at 6 minutes nice and quiet. Stove burning with very nice flame set at Medium (12 0'clock). Hoping for no shut down as it was doing all last week until I unplugged it for 40 minutes last evening. Today it was Sunny and some what warm outside unplugged for over an hour while I removed and cleaned fan. I would like to know how to adjust the airflow and the pellet rate AFTER I get Joe's rebuilt board in and everything running normal.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 16, 2015)

Oh man, I can't wait to get Joe's Rebuilt main board. My stove seems to be working, I mean both Fans run now, it starts up great, no unauthorized  shut downs anymore. Soon as it gets through the start up the flame goes Lazy and week and too orange. I took the air sensor out very carefully and dusted it with canned air. I know how to handle computer parts I build my own gaming computers from scratch. I also vacuumed the air tube the sensor sits in. It seems worse though for the cleaning, all of the glass soots up black now instead of only partial glass going brownish. I hope the new/rebuilt board cures this.


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## pelletpot (Dec 18, 2015)

UPDATE: Joe's Board came today, turned stove off cleaned whole interior, pot and all for nice clean start. NOPE new rebuilt board isn't doing any better than the original board I bought the stove with. What do I buy now?? AIR SENSOR?? This Austroflamm is giving me a head ache LOL seriously I would like to get it running properly. Still has TALL lazy dark orange flame soots up the glass in an hour. I turned the air up and down on the user control board so I know it is now all the way up. Turned pellet feed up and down left it at medium low. Both fans are on. I am not cold by any means I just know the stove is not performing right.


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## smwilliamson (Dec 18, 2015)

Omg you're killing me!

1. Low limit, it's plastic, possibly brittle and when the stove gets warm, pin loosens and continuity is lost, stops feeding. Take the low limit off and jump the connection see if will run on all temps for longer.

2. High limit, also a plastic switch, sometimes the screws that hold it in are too big for the holes on the metal ring attached to the cap and the pin looses continuity, which will stop the feeding until the temp drops. You can jump that one too.

3. Are your tstat connections on the motherboard connected? Stove will start and run for 35 minutes then shut down.

4. Verify low limit is a F140-20 switch, verify high limit is a L200-50 switch

5. Auger bushing?????? Is there wood dust under the auger motor leaking through the bushing and slowing or binding up the feed?

6.digital optical sensor...got lint caught across the resistor?

My bet is on faulty low limit or tstat connection.


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## smwilliamson (Dec 18, 2015)

Remove the air sensor and blast it with some mass air flow sensor cleaner from an auto parts store.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 18, 2015)

Stove is not shutting down any more. Even before I replaced the low limit....Forgot to say I replaced low limit on the exhaust blower 2 days ago.  have not replaced high limit switch but have jumped it. There seems to be no problem with pellet feed and no wood dust under the auger motor leaking through the bushing and slowing or binding up the feed. I don't think there is a digital optical sensor on and older Austroflamm. All the connections on the motherboard seem tight and fine to me. You will have to be more specific as to exactly which are tstat so I can make sure I am not missing something. Next rip into town I will get air flow sensor cleaner but I did clean it with canned air and a dab of alcohol . The problem is TALL lazy dark orange flame soots up the glass in an hour. That is not how it is supposed to be running. There is something wrong and I am just trying to get my stove working right. Thank you for taking time to help me.


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## lakensea (Dec 18, 2015)

You're killing all of us that know about these stoves, and if you keep running it maybe yourself!

I think I read somewhere that someone sent you the service manual - it's a must have, yet you do not seem to be using it to troubleshoot.  You just seem to be throwing parts at it.  There also is no need touch the adjustments, especially to fix your problem - they are for fine tuning, and in 20+ years of owning these stoves I have never touched them.  Use your manual and a volt meter, and get them back to factory specs.

Did you check the door tightness and gasket seals as I previously asked?  Combustion blower gasket, rear air passage end cap gasket?  You've never mentioned anything about your flue set-up - possible blockage?

This is an open flame heating device in your home - fix it right or not at all.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 18, 2015)

Look I came here for help, I am not throwing parts at it other people have suggested everything and every part I have done with the stove . Who do I believe you or them or all of you. No magic mirror to see if I should do as they say or as you say. YES I checked the door tightness and the gasket seals and the dollar bill test,  checked rear air passage end cap gasket. My flue set-up is one 45 degree elbow then straight out the wall with a 5' length with end cap. Just did the leaf blower trick also. If there is anything I have not checked it's the combustion blower gasket. I WILL fix it right as soon as I figure out what it is I need to FIX. I know about open flame devices I have heated with wood stoves all my life. I am just new to pellet stoves and having a bit of a time getting this Austroflamm working right. I have hear nothing but good about Austroflamms and I will see this through even if I am starting to hate it LOL


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## skibumm100 (Dec 18, 2015)

RancherPacker said:


> Look I came here for help, I am not throwing parts at it other people have suggested everything and every part I have done with the stove . Who do I believe you or them or all of you. No magic mirror to see if I should do as they say or as you say. YES I checked the door tightness and the gasket seals and the dollar bill test,  checked rear air passage end cap gasket. My flue set-up is one 45 degree elbow then straight out the wall with a 5' length with end cap. Just did the leaf blower trick also. If there is anything I have not checked it's the combustion blower gasket. I WILL fix it right as soon as I figure out what it is I need to FIX. I know about open flame devices I have heated with wood stoves all my life. I am just new to pellet stoves and having a bit of a time getting this Austroflamm working right. I have hear nothing but good about Austroflamms and I will see this through even if I am starting to hate it LOL




OK everybody, let's settle down. 

Does you door glass have flat gaskets sealing the glass everywhere except the top? Does the door latch offer some resistance as you latch it?

I had to adjust the trim pots on mine to get the flame right. I don't know if the PO messed with them but it won't hurt to turn your fuel feed all the way down and air flow all the way up to see if it makes a difference. Try it. You won't wreck anything. Refer to the manual on which way to turn them to get the desired result. One of the pots is not intuitive to me and I always need to check which way to turn it. You want max air and min fuel. If it doesn't make a difference then we look somewhere else. You either have air leakage "downstream" of the burn pot, restricted flue passages (probably not that based on what you've said) or the computer board is not commanding the fan to run fast enough. Bottom line, you need more air, less fuel.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 18, 2015)

Thanks, yes that is exactly what I was thinking more air less fuel. I do have the air max and and fuel min. The door glass does have flat gaskets in perfect shape except none at the top.Door latch does have resistance and I did the dollar bill test. The computer board is Joe's rebuilt arrived yesterday. It didn't change anything except maybe lazy flames are not quite as tall now but still dark lazy and sooty. Which fan might not be running fast enough? Exhaust? Thanks for helping. The stove does not go out of control and burn to hot or anything it's just the lazy lazy dark sooty fire. I am only heating a small room at the moment so warm enough.


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## Flammam (Dec 18, 2015)

My stove soots up the glass in the first couple of hours of running. Still heats great so I dont worry about not being able to see the fire. When mine is turned down below 1/4 the flame will be lazy because the eeprom regulates the air and feed at the same time. lower temp setting=lower feed rate and lower air flow.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 18, 2015)

Okay going to crank her up to med-hi and see if the flame gets any better. Like you I don't really mind the glass being sooty its the slow lazy flame that bothers me. And it seems it is way dark orange from what it used to be.


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## skibumm100 (Dec 19, 2015)

You could try removing the end cap on the flue to see if that might be causing some back pressure, Sounds like you just need more air, less fuel.....but mostly more combustion air.You have the ash pan installed, right? I can't remember what that area looks like and I'm only about 1500 miles away from mine. I think the burn pot seals to the metal frame under the ash pan. On the pots, fully clockwise on the air, fully counterclockwise on the fuel.....be gentle. The only other thing I can think of is if it is still dirty in the passage above the burn pot where the flue flue gas goes to the front of the top area of the fire box and then goes toward the back of the stove and down around the tubes. I used to blow that area out with a compressor and ash gets hard and caked in there. Hard to reach without a small furnace brush. If that doesn't make it burn any better maybe you got a bum airflow sensor. After that, I'm out of ideas. My insert has a tall flue so I usually have plenty of natural draft plus the combustion fan.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 19, 2015)

ok, those great ideas I will try that. thanks so much


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## RancherPacker (Dec 19, 2015)

Yes there is an ash pan, I took the end cap off, no change. I turned the air clockwise all the way and the pellet feed counter clockwise all the way Gently.  I do not have a furnace brush but I dusted, vacuumed and cleaned the passage above the burn pot where the flue gas goes to the front top area of the fire box and goes toward the back of the stove and down around the tubes.

I have noticed that on start up or shut down the flame is perfect. Bright active, short. Says to me the air sensor or the exhaust motor maybe? It's only when the stove is maintaining the fire that it is tall lazy wispy sooty dark orange. Stove does not do the shut down after 44 mins any more, hasn't for several days. I donno what cured that problem but starts up and stays on just the terrible lazy sooty flame now.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 19, 2015)

Photos of the flame  bright active on start up and or shut down and Lazy dark sooty tall when running in between any start up or shut down as in started up and heating the house. It will never change from that lazy state until you turn it off or start it up. 

Maybe it's too hard to see in the photos.


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## Flammam (Dec 19, 2015)

Here's mine I just did a full cleaning this afternoon running just below the first line on the knob


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## RancherPacker (Dec 19, 2015)

mine looks like that at start up then when the start up cycle is over it goes to lazy sooty


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## funflyer (Dec 19, 2015)

RancherPacker said:


> mine looks like that at start up then when the start up cycle is over it goes to lazy sooty



Have you verified that the auger motor is 1 RPM and not higher? Being a preowned stove, you never know what was done and you say that startup and shutdown give a less-lazy flame which makes sense as the fuel feed is less or off. Just a brainstorm.


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## skibumm100 (Dec 19, 2015)

Are you getting clinkers in the pot blocking the airflow? Just a thought......   I think we're getting closer. We've eliminated some items. We're about due for the "A-HA!" moment.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 19, 2015)

No clinkers or at least not much and I clean the pot at daily sometimes twice just because I can and it still is lazy after the initial start up 15 mins or so after I cleaned it....YEH I hope were getting close to ahhhh HA


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## Mt Bob (Dec 19, 2015)

RancherPacker said:


> How did you know you needed to solder in 3 caps? By the 2 temp switches do u mean the high limit and the low limit snap discs?


OK Stove started to not start.As this was before I put harman in upstairs,it was cold.Found out(and joe helped)if i screwed with scooping pellets into burnpot,heating up stove(to keep stove running).Symptoms were erratic auger feed,combustion blower speed erratic.As soon as stove warmed up,it would run fine.Part of diagnosis was unplugging stove(for a while/a day),When the control(main,not daughter) board would cool down it would not function properly.Also verifyed this by heating the board while trying to start it.Turned out to be the capacitors(look up bad caps on the net,affects many things).Hope this will help people.


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## Mt Bob (Dec 19, 2015)

OK,I do not se where you installed rebuild board??Maybe I missed somethingFlam has one of the best stove burning pictures for thes old ones.The pot adjustments affect the burning at "idle" the most,and only some in the rest of the range.The pot adjustments are for setting air flow and pellets in a install that is not perfect---into a chimney,too tall vertical,etc.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 19, 2015)

ok I doubt I could replace capacitors although I do build my own gaming computers the boards are ready to install when I do LOL. And since I have Joe's rebuilt board installed I doubt I need to. Thanks for answering, it is very interesting.


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## Mt Bob (Dec 19, 2015)

RancherPacker said:


> ok I doubt I could replace capacitors although I do build my own gaming computers the boards are ready to install when I do LOL. And since I have Joe's rebuilt board installed I doubt I need to. Thanks for answering, it is very interesting.


Well throughout this thread it did not show where you installed board,will reread and rethink.Gamer-cool(but i am not,just respect


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## RancherPacker (Dec 19, 2015)

bob bare said:


> Well throughout this thread it did not show where you installed board,will reread and rethink.Gamer-cool(but i am not,just respect


I had to briefly make a new ID as my little grandson got hold of the paper I had my password written on. I finally remembered it and went back to rancherpacker


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## Mt Bob (Dec 19, 2015)

Cool,kids are supposed to do that!As a conisour? of old austros,will try to help you as much as I can,they really are very simple(compared to the other crap).If you want me to call,pm me.Bob.


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## bwep (Dec 19, 2015)

I had same symptom your describing with the lazy flame. Stared up fine, then just gets lazy and smoked up the glass. Mine turned out to be a faulty air sensor.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 20, 2015)

Hey Thanks Bob and bwep, I think I will go for the air sensor. Hate to just keep buying parts but they wont go to waste as I plan on keeping the austroflamm for a long time and nice to have back ups right? lol If the air sensor doesnt work I pm for a call bob THANKS!


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## Mt Bob (Dec 20, 2015)

RancherPacker said:


> Hey Thanks Bob and bwep, I think I will go for the air sensor. Hate to just keep buying parts but they wont go to waste as I plan on keeping the austroflamm for a long time and nice to have back ups right? lol If the air sensor doesnt work I pm for a call bob THANKS!


Well I was trying to avoid you from buying xtra parts(but that does not hurt).If the stove body does not go bad it is useful for a long time.Will go back through thread and see if i mssed anything.


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## sbmsp (Dec 20, 2015)

I haven't read through all 5 pages but this might help you, has trouble shooting tips and description of how stove runs.  Stumbled upon it as I am trying to figure out how to most cost effectively replace the convection motor in our Wega. 

BTW if I could ask you to take a look at the back of your stove.....  I'm trying to determine the correct position for the dampener weight, could you describe (I guess using a clock as a reference) where you weight is pointed .....  I'm thinking either 12 or 1 o'clock ish.

http://pelletstoverepair.com/Wegatroubleshooting.pdf

Steve


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## RancherPacker (Dec 20, 2015)

sbmsp said:


> I haven't read through all 5 pages but this might help you, has trouble shooting tips and description of how stove runs.  Stumbled upon it as I am trying to figure out how to most cost effectively replace the convection motor in our Wega.
> 
> BTW if I could ask you to take a look at the back of your stove.....  I'm trying to determine the correct position for the dampener weight, could you describe (I guess using a clock as a reference) where you weight is pointed .....  I'm thinking either 12 or 1 o'clock ish.
> 
> ...


Steve my stove is an older 1992 Austroflamm Integra there is no dampener on it.


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## sweets (Dec 20, 2015)

Yowa , lemme know what you find out,
My stove is doing exactly to the tee , the
Same problem,my stove is totally different company, I tried everything, only a year old , i think its a circut board problem but a guy said get a double sided exhaust fan , because i put
New exhaust motor , i think its going to be a circut board problem but dealer doesnt think so , the  air switch is alrite, you blow 
Gently in tube , should click.


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## RancherPacker (Dec 20, 2015)

sweets said:


> Yowa , lemme know what you find out,
> My stove is doing exactly to the tee , the
> Same problem,my stove is totally different company, I tried everything, only a year old , i think its a circut board problem but a guy said get a double sided exhaust fan , because i put
> New exhaust motor , i think its going to be a circut board problem but dealer doesnt think so , the  air switch is alrite, you blow
> Gently in tube , should click.


well it is not a circuit board problem in my Austroflamm because I put in a new rebuilt circuit board and it did not change a thing.


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## sweets (Dec 20, 2015)

Im going to call company tomorrow and get the cleanout gaskets , i think there sucking air, but thats what a "tech" said 
Its not air tight somewere , ill let u know when i fix it , maybe it will pertain to your stove...


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## RancherPacker (Dec 20, 2015)

sweets said:


> Im going to call company tomorrow and get the cleanout gaskets , i think there sucking air, but thats what a "tech" said
> Its not air tight somewere , ill let u know when i fix it , maybe it will pertain to your stove...


Thanks as I will also!


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## skibumm100 (Dec 21, 2015)

bob bare said:


> OK,I do not se where you installed rebuild board??Maybe I missed somethingFlam has one of the best stove burning pictures for thes old ones.The pot adjustments affect the burning at "idle" the most,and only some in the rest of the range.The pot adjustments are for setting air flow and pellets in a install that is not perfect---into a chimney,too tall vertical,etc.



Non-typical would describe my installation. I only suggested trying that in case someone had them misadjusted before Rancher got his hands on it. If he has a lazy flame, dialing it to max air / min fuel mode would rule tweaked pots out. Looks like it might be a bad air flow sensor. We will see.


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## smwilliamson (Dec 22, 2015)

I dealt with a similar problem last year on the same model stove, turned out to be a failing hall sensor on the combustion blower. Gotta replace threshold blower assembly fer that ones do it pricey.


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## sweets (Jan 2, 2016)

skibumm100 said:


> Non-typical would describe my installation. I only suggested trying that in case someone had them misadjusted before Rancher got his hands on it. If he has a lazy flame, dialing it to max air / min fuel mode would rule tweaked pots out. Looks like it might be a bad air flow sensor. We will see.


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## sweets (Jan 2, 2016)

My stove turned out to be a blockage in the rear of the stove,  blew it out with a wet vac and it's 100%  .


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## smwilliamson (Jan 9, 2016)

sweets said:


> My stove turned out to be a blockage in the rear of the stove,  blew it out with a wet vac and it's 100%  .


Intake or exhaust?


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## sweets (Jan 9, 2016)

smwilliamson said:


> Intake or exhaust?


You have a blockage in your stove exhaust is not coming out you got plenty air from your motor exhausted and going out you got a blockage if you blow out your stove it'll work


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## sweets (Jan 9, 2016)

sweets said:


> You have a blockage in your stove exhaust is not coming out you got plenty air from your motor exhausted and going out you got a blockage if you blow out your stove it'll work


My stove is when exact same thing start up it was fine because it start up it use a lot Air


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## smwilliamson (Jan 9, 2016)

Oh gracious....sniffing to much stove paint I see


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## sweets (Jan 10, 2016)

smwilliamson said:


> Oh gracious....sniffing to much stove paint I see


Watta mean??


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## sweets (Jan 10, 2016)

sweets said:


> My stove is when exact same thing start up it was fine because it start up it use a lot Air


Damn talk texting , when it starts up it uses less air then when it goes through the motions the exhaust can't get out


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## funflyer (Jan 10, 2016)

smwilliamson said:


> Oh gracious....sniffing to much stove paint I see



Thought is was just me  I interpreted it as...

"The light at the end of the tunnel is omni-present, much like the significant understanding is interdependant on the relatedness of velocity."


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## RancherPacker (Jan 11, 2016)

smwilliamson said:


> I dealt with a similar problem last year on the same model stove, turned out to be a failing hall sensor on the combustion blower. Gotta replace threshold blower assembly fer that ones do it pricey.


What is this  threshold blower assembly you are talking about? Do you just mean the Combustion Fan it's self?


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## RancherPacker (Jan 11, 2016)

I have blown my stove out 3 X within 2 weeks using the leave blower on suction. I have completely dissembled and CLEANED CLEANED CLEANED. All  the fans, the air sensor, the ports all the holes the exhaust pipe. Installed an OAK. Removed the back plates in fire box cleaned all back there. That stove hates me. LOL Replaced the main board, replaced the air sensor. replaced the combustion fan, ok i know a lot of money spent but like I said earlier I do like the stove and plan to keep and use it for years so the money is not all wasted and I have replacement parts now right    Nothing changed.After start up Horrible tall lazy sooty flame with eventual pellet pile up.

I found a work around that I am using now. Put a fan behind stove redirected OAK from outside air to air blown into tube from fan. This works quite well. Still not perfect but no more lazy sooty flame. No more pellet pile ups only thing I can see now is the flame is dark orange when it should be a brighter color right? I know it is not a permanent solution but danged if I can figure out what to do next. Actually I do have gasket material on order from car masters and will replace the large gaskets under the backing plates. That's it I am stuck and now that I have a work around it is not a pressing major priority. Although I surely do want to master this Austroflamm and get it fixed right!

I absolutely appreciate every thought, idea, and answer on this thread. Any ideas about why that work-around works? what would make that work? The fan is just directed at the tube not forced into it or anything. I put a medium paper cup on the end of tube to gather a bit more air but it still is just setting in front of fan.


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## skibumm100 (Jan 13, 2016)

RancherPacker said:


> I have blown my stove out 3 X within 2 weeks using the leave blower on suction. I have completely dissembled and CLEANED CLEANED CLEANED. All  the fans, the air sensor, the ports all the holes the exhaust pipe. Installed an OAK. Removed the back plates in fire box cleaned all back there. That stove hates me. LOL Replaced the main board, replaced the air sensor. replaced the combustion fan, ok i know a lot of money spent but like I said earlier I do like the stove and plan to keep and use it for years so the money is not all wasted and I have replacement parts now right    Nothing changed.After start up Horrible tall lazy sooty flame with eventual pellet pile up.
> 
> I found a work around that I am using now. Put a fan behind stove redirected OAK from outside air to air blown into tube from fan. This works quite well. Still not perfect but no more lazy sooty flame. No more pellet pile ups only thing I can see now is the flame is dark orange when it should be a brighter color right? I know it is not a permanent solution but danged if I can figure out what to do next. Actually I do have gasket material on order from car masters and will replace the large gaskets under the backing plates. That's it I am stuck and now that I have a work around it is not a pressing major priority. Although I surely do want to master this Austroflamm and get it fixed right!
> 
> I absolutely appreciate every thought, idea, and answer on this thread. Any ideas about why that work-around works? what would make that work? The fan is just directed at the tube not forced into it or anything. I put a medium paper cup on the end of tube to gather a bit more air but it still is just setting in front of fan.



Can you hear the combustion fan speed up and slow down when it's running? I wonder if the there is a broken wire in hall sensor circuit between the fan and the control board? That stove should run correctly if the exhaust path is clear and you have a new main board and combustion fan. Just throwing it out there as there just aren't that many things that should cause this. Still sounds like there isn't enough air flow and that is either caused by the combustion fan going too slow or some kind of blockage....but we've ruled that out, right? 

In particular, if you have your "forced air induction" external fan pushing air in, the air sensor should see the "extra" air flow and tell the combustion fan to slow down. I use the ceramic 1/8" sheet from McMaster-Carr for my stove. Be aware that it is flimsy and you might get a couple of deep cleanings out of it before it falls apart. It's cheap, so no big deal.


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## RancherPacker (Jan 13, 2016)

The only time I believe I hear any change in the combustion fan is when I restart the stove. It seems to speed up then or at least the air speeds up and makes a nice FAST short bright flame. I have not stood right there and observed the fan to see if it speeds up and slows down. When ever I do look it looks the same speed every time. Soon as start up is over I do not ever hear any change in fan. I also believe yes I have cleaned that stove top to bottom multiple times. I do not know where a blockage could possibly be that I have not poked, prodded, vacuumed, blown, brushed out or used the leaf blower trick on. All gaskets seem tight and fine dollar bill trick on door too. No clinkers or at least very little. If I do not use my "forced air induction" work around the fire pot will pile up pellets.

The broken wire you are wondering about in hall sensor circuit between the fan and the control board must not be on the combustion fan wiring right? Because with a new combustion fan installed that would have taken care of that. So where would I check for that broken wire?

I just received my roll of  ceramic 1/8" sheet from McMasters. do you double it or just go single layer?


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## UMainah (Jan 13, 2016)

Since you've reached the point of "forced air induction" maybe it time to call the in a professional?


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## skibumm100 (Jan 14, 2016)

RancherPacker said:


> The only time I believe I hear any change in the combustion fan is when I restart the stove. It seems to speed up then or at least the air speeds up and makes a nice FAST short bright flame. I have not stood right there and observed the fan to see if it speeds up and slows down. When ever I do look it looks the same speed every time. Soon as start up is over I do not ever hear any change in fan. I also believe yes I have cleaned that stove top to bottom multiple times. I do not know where a blockage could possibly be that I have not poked, prodded, vacuumed, blown, brushed out or used the leaf blower trick on. All gaskets seem tight and fine dollar bill trick on door too. No clinkers or at least very little. If I do not use my "forced air induction" work around the fire pot will pile up pellets.
> 
> The broken wire you are wondering about in hall sensor circuit between the fan and the control board must not be on the combustion fan wiring right? Because with a new combustion fan installed that would have taken care of that. So where would I check for that broken wire?
> 
> I just received my roll of  ceramic 1/8" sheet from McMasters. do you double it or just go single layer?



I just use a single layer. It seems to work fine.

The combustion fan has motor leads and hall sensor leads, correct? Looking at the tech manual, there are four wires for the motor/capacitor (one is a ground) and two wires for the hall sensor with a separate plug. The wires I would check are the hall sensor wires. The wiring would be between the fan motor and the circuit card. Did the fan come with a pigtail that goes all the way to the circuit board? Sorry I can't look at mine, it's about 1000 miles away.


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## skibumm100 (Jan 14, 2016)

Not sure if this tech manual has been posted yet or not. If not, enjoy.....and be careful please. Lots of good info in this manual. Pull up a chair next to your stove and look it over.


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## RancherPacker (Jan 24, 2016)

1992 Austroflamm Integra.........Today I meticulously cleaned the pellet stove AGAIN!  took out backing plates vacuumed brushed everywhere in there. New gasket on lower plate. I had just cleaned the motors a couple weeks go  so did not do them this time. Scrubbed the heat tubes with a brush and vacuum then used a tooth brush for more thorough cleaning. Used a coat hanger to get at the square holes behind the tubes all of them. Vacuumed the round tube that leads to the square holes used flash light to check them...clean.. Brushed out vent pipe then decided to change it by removing the 5' horizontal length replaced it with 3' from back of stove to end cap. Did leaf blower trick. not much came out but let it run for a good 3 mins anyway. Nothing changed flame still lazy and too tall.

1. replaced main board (joe)
2. replaced air sensor
3. replaced both snap disks
4. replaced combustion motor & gasket (jason)
5. replaced backing plate gasket
6. air pot full clockwise pellet rate full counter clockwise
7. installed oak or no oak makes no difference
8. cleaned that saustoflamm way too often the foxfire upstairs is a way better running stove

Austroflamm has very nice short active flame during start up cycle, soon as it hits the 15 (approx) minute mark it goes Lazy Tall sooty. This is getting to be a fight now between me and that stove I will get the better of it and WIN lol I swear I will.

Below is a photo of the flame at about 20 minutes after starting it will stay that way the whole time stove is burning. Never gets any better well that is unless I turn it off and do the start up cycle again then its great for about 15 mins.

Whats left? Hall sensor? what is it? Where is it should I change it?


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## Mark_ms (Jan 24, 2016)

RancherPacker said:


> 1992 Austroflamm Integra.........Today I meticulously cleaned the pellet stove AGAIN!  took out backing plates vacuumed brushed everywhere in there. New gasket on lower plate. I had just cleaned the motors a couple weeks go  so did not do them this time. Scrubbed the heat tubes with a brush and vacuum then used a tooth brush for more thorough cleaning. Used a coat hanger to get at the square holes behind the tubes all of them. Vacuumed the round tube that leads to the square holes used flash light to check them...clean.. Brushed out vent pipe then decided to change it by removing the 5' horizontal length replaced it with 3' from back of stove to end cap. Did leaf blower trick. not much came out but let it run for a good 3 mins anyway. Nothing changed flame still lazy and too tall.
> 
> 1. replaced main board (joe)
> 2. replaced air sensor
> ...



There are two sets of wires coming off the combustion motor 2 blue and 1 yellow (one set) and the other set has 3 wires going into a Molex (?) connector(red, black and white.) This connector has a male fitting. Each set of wires is wrapped in rubber coming out of motor.
Both sets pigtail into a capacitor.
2 blue/1 yellow go to terminal block
the one with connector fits in the female end going to circuit board.
Here is a pic of new motor
For the time being I would re-adjust the air and auger settings back to 12 o'clock and measure the voltage to both should be 2.5 v dc on each

What setting are you on after startup?


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## skibumm100 (Jan 24, 2016)

RP,

I don't see where you answered a question from a couple of pages ago. A question was asked about whether you checked to make sure the auger motor is a 1 RPM motor. Some auger motors are 2 RPM and it's possible it was changed at some point. They look the same but that would double your fuel feed rate and probably make it uncontrollable. From looking at the troubleshooting section of the Tech Manual I posted above, a broken Hall sensor wire would make the combustion fan run faster, not too slow. It's worth a look anyway. If you haven't downloaded that Tech Manual I posted above, do yourself a favor and print it out. It's for your vintage stove and is something you should have handy. It shows where to check for voltages and gives you the correct ranges. It doesn't make sense to poke and hope when you have the troubleshooting document and flow charts. Also, did you check to make sure the jumper is still in place for the t-stat connections? I can't remember if you did that. It sounds like the start-up sequence is good but when it hands off to the run program and sensors to run the stove it stumbles.


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## Mark_ms (Jan 24, 2016)

FWIW When I replaced my auger motor I put in a 1.1 RPM although I can see where a 2rpm would not be good.


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## skibumm100 (Jan 25, 2016)

Mark_ms said:


> FWIW When I replaced my auger motor I put in a 1.1 RPM although I can see where a 2rpm would not be good.


 I don't think 1.1 would be a problem, I think that is what was supplied from the factory. 2:1 could be bad and I know some stoves use 2:1 on their auger motors. St. Croix and Englander come to mind.


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## Snowy Rivers (Jan 25, 2016)

This is sounding like a circuit board issue or a vacuum/pressure switch thing.

First off, get the sides off so you can see Wasssssup.

Make sure the combustion fan turns easily.
If thew motor has oil holes, lube it with light weight synthetic oil (0-20 synth motor oil)
Fire up and then watch the exhaust fan.
This stove should have a  vacuum switch that measures vacuum at the fire box.

Trace any rubber lines back to the fire box and make sure they are clean (As in blow through them)
Make sure the vacuum switch is working (test with vom and suck lightly on the hose to close the switch)

If these seem OK then refire the stove and watch the draft fan.

Very well could be that the draft fan is slowing down as it heats up and is stopping, thus shutting down the stove.

Good luck

Snowy


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## Snowmobileaddict (Jan 25, 2016)

Connect an AC voltmeter to the combustion motor terminals during a startup sequence and report back with what your voltage is before and after the flame changes from lively yellow flame to sooty long lazy flame.

When I have seem this in the past, the combustion fan was cutting out and causing the flame to go lazy. 

It wasn't intuitive though because the fan rotor was still spinning (you could see it spinning), not under it's own power though.  The flame and combustion gases were actually spinning the fan rotor in the exhaust stream.  The stove won't burn right though and won't sustain combustion.


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## Austroincert (Jan 25, 2016)

If you haven't fixed your stove yet it sounds like the air sensor. I have three of the Austroflamm Integras between by house and my shop and got them all used and needing work. In the process of learning I once installed the air sensor backwards and it caused a similar problem. The small plug with four wires can be put on backwards also if you don't look at it carefully.


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## Mark_ms (Jan 26, 2016)

Snowey, Circuit board and air sensor have been replaced. There are no vacuum tubes in this unit air is regulated by electronic air sensor
I am thinking along the lines of skibumm that something is not connected correctly on the terminal block either the thermostat jumper between terminals is not connected. or missing or there i where is another wire(s) to the terminal block are not in the right place or a crimped/ damaged wire somewhere..
Ranch packer could you take a pic of your terminal block removed to show your connections from the combustion motor /convection side??


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## Snowy Rivers (Jan 26, 2016)

I have a stove like this sitting in my shop, but have not messed with it as yet, so I have no hands on experience with the model.

 I am still thinking that the issue is the exhaust fan.


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## Austroincert (Jan 26, 2016)

Make sure the air sensor is installed facing this direction as in this picture and the plug has the white wire to the front of the stove. When you changed the air sensor was it with a new or used one. The air sensor can cause the combustion fan to run very slow. If your stove is warm and in operational mode, after startup and you have a lazy flame, try unplugging the air sensor. That should cause the combustion fan to take off and run much faster. If so, I think the problem is in the air sensor or the wires and/or connectors for the sensor.


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## steamguy (Jan 27, 2016)

I've been watching this from the standpoint of an old Engineering Tech and former Austroflamm owner (who misses the old stove a lot) and there are some checks that hasn't been mentioned yet; I recall from pages back that you got this stove used, so I'm wondering if it may not have been right for a while...
I used to be pretty good at finding insidious stuff like this, so maybe I can be of help:

Are each one of the wires from point-to-point (motor to board, sensor(s) to board, etc) good? Check this with the stove unplugged, and using both patience and the ohms scale on your ohmmeter. Any point-to-point test with infinite (or nearly so) resistance means a broken wire. 
As you pull connectors apart, what is the condition of the individual connections themselves? You'll need a magnifying glass to make sure the female half of the connection inside the plug works correctly (each should have a 'leaf' that makes sliding contact with the male pins) and those contact areas are in good shape. Don't forget to test the single-lug push-on connectors. They should 'grab' well and be wiggle-free.
Carefully examine the wiring diagram and check the color codes of the wires and their position in the terminal blocks against what the book says. This shouldn't take too long as there aren't that many to check. I say this because I've received new replacement parts where the connector was wired incorrectly. 

Hope this helps, everything I've read to this point seems to say we've got a bad wire or a bad connector somewhere. And good luck!


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## RancherPacker (Jan 29, 2016)

Hey Guys so sorry for not getting back with answers to questions. I used to get email notices when someone replied to my threads now I don't so I didn't think anyone replied. Sorry about that will check daily myself now
I have sent the 3 boards circuit, air, and user control to Joe Narduzzi for checking. So I can't perform all the tests yet. I am currently working on the other tests suggested. At least when I get them back I will know they are working properly or will replace again and they will be working.

I do know the air sensor was installed correctly. Have to go out and get chores done now will post some answers / photos later today. I sure do appreciate you all helping me.


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## RancherPacker (Jan 29, 2016)

here is picture of terminal block removed and from different angles


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## RancherPacker (Jan 29, 2016)

Yes auger motor is Merkel Korff 1 RPM

Joe says all my boards - circuit, air, and user are working fine. He is sending a wiring harness now.


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## RancherPacker (Feb 6, 2016)

Problem SOLVED..........new wiring harness did the trick. Stove has been running 15 minutes PAST all other failure times/spots. Dare I hope the problem is in the past? Nice bright active flame now so HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY


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## skibumm100 (Feb 6, 2016)

RancherPacker said:


> Problem SOLVED..........new wiring harness did the trick. Stove has been running 15 minutes PAST all other failure times/spots. Dare I hope the problem is in the past? Nice bright active flame now so HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY



AH-HA! OK, it took longer than I had hoped but I knew you could save the old girl. You'll be very happy with the stove. I'm sitting in front of mine right now and had to turn it down. It's 78 in my house right now. Congrats on the fix! You have enough spares to keep it running 20 years.


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## RancherPacker (Feb 6, 2016)

Yes I was determined to tame the "old girl" I knew I could do it eventually and yeh, lots of parts for spares. Cost me some but I got her cheap. (probably previous owners gave up on her) And like you said should be good for 20 years - - if I live that long LOL

3 1/2 hours and running perfect!


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## steamguy (Feb 8, 2016)

RancherPacker said:


> Problem SOLVED..........new wiring harness did the trick


 high five...! 
Our Austro lasted some 20 years of good, hard use. Finally had to say 'Adios' because I couldn't find parts for it anymore, at that point all imports of parts had ceased, cheap copies were being made but with different 'innards'. Loved that stove, it was literally falling apart when I sold it to someone who needed a good Gen1 circuit board. And now look: you can find parts for them again... Found an old pic, had owned it 5 years at this point.


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## Peterfield (Feb 8, 2016)

OMG, I was beginning to hate your Austroflamm, too.    Glad the problem is finally solved.


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## RancherPacker (Feb 19, 2016)

3 weeks later and stove still running top notch YAY thanks to everyone who helped me !!


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