# chainsaw recomendations



## Cornflakes (Oct 24, 2014)

I'm going to have to get a chainsaw at some point in the future, since they seem to be a necessity if one scrounges for wood. 

I guess I'd like an 18" saw - since those are the lengths I would be cutting.  
Not trying to spend a ton of money, but I will if its worth it and the thing will last. 

thanks!


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## mstoelton (Oct 24, 2014)

Do yourself a favor and find a Home Depot rental saw that is being sold.  They rent and periodically sell Makita 6421 saws.  This is a pro level saw, they can be had for $300 or less.  If you call around to the local Home Depot's you might find one.  These are Dolmar saws that wear Makita colors (Makita actually owns Dolmar).  If you do some research on this site you will see that there are several people that are really happy with this saw.  They come with 20 inch bar.

If at some point the piston or jug goes bad, the 79cc top end can be added to the chassis for ~$200 and you have an 80cc class saw.

I purchased two of these in the spring and have cut ~10 cord so far.  They rip!


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## isipwater (Oct 24, 2014)

Cornflakes said:


> I'm going to have to get a chainsaw at some point in the future, since they seem to be a necessity if one scrounges for wood.
> 
> I guess I'd like an 18" saw - since those are the lengths I would be cutting.
> Not trying to spend a ton of money, but I will if its worth it and the thing will last.
> ...


I got my first saw this year after extensive research.  I wanted something high quality at the best price point for the overall best value.

This meant not going with any of the homeowner or ranch saws since they are mostly plastic components that will be more susceptible to cracking and breakage.

I hesitated going with a commercial saw because they are more expensive and I don't work for a tree company.

Then I found the perfect match, the darkhorse of saws, the Husqvarna 555.

It has commercial grade components (i.e. magnesium crankcase) but without the other fancypants features of more expensive commercial saws.

The price was fair, paid $550.

This is a solidly powerful saw at 60cc and comes equiped with other excellent features such as:
Autotune - no carb adjustments needed and X -Torq - sips fuel for less refueling

I have now bucked 9 cords of logs and I have no regrets.  It gets the job done.

Good luck with your search.


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## Jags (Oct 24, 2014)

Please define "ton of money".  Got a budget in mind?


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## Danno77 (Oct 24, 2014)

Poulan WildThing with an 18" chisel and running Nitrous Oxide.


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## Rossco (Oct 24, 2014)

isipwater said:


> I got my first saw this year after extensive research.  I wanted something high quality at the best price point for the overall best value.
> 
> This meant not going with any of the homeowner or ranch saws since they are mostly plastic components that will be more susceptible to cracking and breakage.
> 
> ...



Ah the 'Triple Nickel' along with the 545, the most underrated, under discussed saws out there. They just pee the XP mugs right off. 

Ebay my good man.

CLICKY

CLICKY


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## Cornflakes (Oct 25, 2014)

Jags said:


> Please define "ton of money".  Got a budget in mind?



$300 would be my top end, unless I could really justify the need for a "better" saw


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## Osagebndr (Oct 25, 2014)

IMO a 60cc saw is the way to go. I've ran a lot of smaller saws and sold a lot if wood before I started burning none compare to a good (pro) 60cc for cutting wood don't care if it's 4 cord or 400 cord . Look at HD for a used makita 6421 don't settle for a homeowner saw unless you have to. CL has some good saws also


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## Jon1270 (Oct 25, 2014)

Okay, it sounds like you don't have much experience with chainsaws, so maybe we should get you oriented before suggesting particular models. 

It's not very helpful to mentally label saws in terms of the length of the bar.  Any given saw powerhead can be attached to a variety of different size bars.



Cornflakes said:


> I guess I'd like an 18" saw - since those are the lengths I would be cutting.



It's the diameter of the log that determines how long the bar ought to be, but maybe that's what you meant.  18" is a perfectly reasonable length for general-purpose use.

Since any given saw motor can accept various length bars, the question becomes: what sort of powerhead will work best with an 18" bar?

For an 18" saw, you're going to want a motor with about 50-55cc displacement.  A smaller motor can do it, but it will be underpowered and slow.  A bigger motor might be fun, but is unnecessary.

From there we can ask, which 50-ish cc powerhead do you want?  There are a bunch on the market. 

The old brands most people associate with chainsaws they heard about when they were kids -- McCulloch, Homelite, Poulan, Remington -- have all been bought out and now sell cheap Chinese saws that are generally very poor quality.  It's unlikely anyone here will advise you to buy any of these brands.  Virtually all of the better saws sold in the US today come from either Stihl, Husqvarna, Dolmar/Makita, or Echo.  

In general, each brand offers two or three different classes of saws.  

At the lower end there are less-expensive saws targeted at homeowners and occasional users.  They run just fine and with care can provide good service, but they're a little heavier, a little less powerful, and tend to be harder to work on when they need maintenance; a significant mechanical failure usually means a homeowner saw will end up on a scrap heap instead of being repaired.

At the upper end are professional saws, which are lighter, more powerful, and easier to maintain and repair.  Pro-grade saws are usually worth fixing when they suffer a significant failure.

Some brands will also have a "farm" or "ranch" quality level that is in-between the homeowner and professional grades.

At $300 for 50cc, you're not getting a pro-grade saw unless you buy secondhand.


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## duramaxman05 (Oct 25, 2014)

Check out dolmar saws. One of the best bangs for the buck.


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## redmule (Oct 25, 2014)

The Dolmar 6100 is a very good all around saw.


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## Danno77 (Oct 25, 2014)

There are a handful of good saws for sale at any moment on the arboristsite "tradin' post" forum.


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## Ashful (Oct 25, 2014)

at $300, there are two very good choices:

Stihl 036:  older pro saw, often referred to as the best firewood saw ever built.  $300 is the going rate for a clean one.

The aforementioned Home Depot Makita is another good choice.


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## blades (Oct 25, 2014)

please be aware that home depot units from rental might be in any type of condition  from pristine to  very ugly and I do  not mean externally.   It does depend on the level of  competence of the store service personnel, some are good some god awful.  6400 series at the avg price of 250 from HD rental leaves a lot of room for repair as retail is in the $700 class. most common problem is the carbs are mucked up from ethanol.


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## Wildo (Oct 26, 2014)

If $300 is the max its either a homeowner saw or a DOLKITA!  The Dolkita is tough enough that even 99% of idiot renters can't mess them up unless they straight gas 'em, or run them so dull they burn up, which are reason enough to spend the extra 2 bills to make it a 7900 when you get one.  I love mine almost as much as my Jonsered it would be as much if the front handle wasn't krookerd.


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## bassJAM (Oct 27, 2014)

Expanding on what Jon1270 said, how much wood do you expect to process a year?  It it's 3 cords or less, I think there's an argument to me made that a farm/ranch saw will be fine.  There's been a lot of wood cut over the years with the Stihl 290 Farm Boss, and it pairs nicely with an 18" bar.  But you can get a much nicer saw in pro-grade form, and it's worth the extra cost it to a lot of people (me included).  Not only is the quality higher with a pro saw, but you also get a better power/weight ratio and better anti-vibe, which means a lot after using a saw ling periods of time.

For a once saw plan, it's hard to beat something in the 60cc class, like the Stihl 036/360 or the Makita 6421 found at Home Depot.  I started out with a 50cc pro saw, and quickly decided that it's wasn't the best choice once logs got up around 16" or so, so now I have 2 saws.  Not that I'm complaining, I wouldn't trade my 550xp for anything, but if you don't intend to get more than one saw, I'd spend the money up front and get a decent 60cc class.


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## wildlingabovethebridge (Oct 27, 2014)

Just throwin this out there, sometimes cost does matter no matter how much you "should" buy a better saw. Also, sometimes a homeowner-class " baby's first chain saw" is appropriate (and safer) when it really is baby's first chain saw.

Last year I was hard up for a saw and picked up a Poulan Pro PP3416 34CC 16in bar for $140 . So far I have cut about 7 cord with it and it runs and cuts great. With a sharp chain I have buried the bar in a 20" oak and it kept truckin. I'm hoping to pick up a bigger, long-term investment saw next year, but this one wors for now. a few fetures and tips:
Be sure to maintain it. Never run the bar oil dry, use only ethenol-free gas and mix your gas strictly per the manual. I use the husqvarna 40:1 one-shot-to-o
ne-gallon little bottles. Keep that chain sharp, the only chains i have found for it are the playschool ultra-low kickback oh please be careful safety chains...which will still cut well as long as you touch them up every tank of gas. If you use it alot you will need a carb adjustment after it breaks in. If you got the money sure, get a husky or J-red, my personal fav is the 455 or 460


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## j7art2 (Oct 30, 2014)

I just traded a Mossberg 500 for a Husqvarna 455 Rancher. It's a beast so far. Very impressed with it.


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## Ashful (Oct 30, 2014)

... and you got rid of a Mossberg 500!

Funny story, when I tried getting my wife into trap shooting, I had her use a Browning Superposed with very light loads.  Nothing but the best, but she complained about recoil from the light Superposed.  So, we tried a nice Beretta semi-auto trap gun (can't remember model... not a Beretta guy), a gun well documented to be among the lowest recoil trap guns on the market, and almost as spendy as the Browning.  She wouldn't have it.  We went thru a long list of guns, some borrowed, some purchased, over the course of a few months, and then landed on a Mossberg 500 in 20 gauge that our youth club used to loan out.  What a POS, with a poorly fit stock, sheetmetal trigger guard, and action looser than... well, I won't say.  But, she liked it, so I bought it.  I hide it in the back of the gun safe, where no one can dare see it.


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## j7art2 (Oct 30, 2014)

You're right about a few things with them for sure. I personally love Mossbergs since they're ambidextrous and left handed friendly. They do have loose tolerances though compared to some, like 870's for example, but you see that across many manufacturers. I've also noticed that 500's kick like a mule compared to some others. 

This particular one was one that I snagged used at a gun store at a steal. I'm an NRA Certified Firearms Instructor, and know a deal when I see one. It was a 20" barrel tactical unit with TONS of aftermarket goodies for $275. I bought it with the sole purpose of selling or trading for more on a rainy day. Needless to say, I flipped it for a $400 saw. :D


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## Ashful (Oct 30, 2014)

Nice!  You did good.

My wife hasn't shot trap in so long, I can't even remember the configuration of hers.  It's just standard grade / plain Jane.  I could go into how she got in her head that was the gun for her, but being a thread about chain saws, I won't derail any farther.


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## Bigg_Redd (Oct 30, 2014)

duramaxman05 said:


> Check out dolmar saws. One of the best bangs for the buck.



That was truer 5 years ago than it is today


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## Osagebndr (Oct 30, 2014)

You could go with a used 290/029 . In good shape a very hard to beat tuff saw that'll last for years. Do some good maintenance on whatever you buy and it'll last for a long time


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## Frank625 (Oct 30, 2014)

I picked up this MS290 a couple weeks ago for $200 and have already cut 4 cords of red and white oak with it. I bought a couple new chains. I'm liking the 20" bar & 56cc's. Starts very easy and does what it should.


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## ibbuckshot (Oct 30, 2014)

John1270 gave some of the best ideas to think about. Use these words when you shop for a saw " A poor man can only afford the very best"  I use an old Husqvarna 181 SE. It may have cost me a bit
more at first but EVERY time I go to use it I am reminded it has the power to get the job done without forcing me to work my butt off. Oh, by the way, I think I obtained it during the 1970's


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## Osagebndr (Oct 31, 2014)

Nice 290 frank and with a farm boss bar, very hard to get anymore.


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## jillybeansisme (Nov 1, 2014)

Okay, I have to ask . . . none of the gas stations I go to here in Vegas have ethanol free gas except diesel fuel.  So where do you find ethanol free gas for your saw (cuz I am presuming none of you have an electric saw) as someone above said was necessary?


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## Osagebndr (Nov 1, 2014)

I go to a country mark station about half hour away. There are a few additives such as star tron and we have one here called ethanol shield. But it's hard to find ethanol free gas anymore


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## Ashful (Nov 1, 2014)

Most just run pump gas, for this reason.  You can buy canned e-free, but it's spendy.  My local sae shop sells it, but only recommends it for saw storage, not daily use (due to the cost).


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## KD0AXS (Nov 1, 2014)

jillybeansisme said:


> Okay, I have to ask . . . none of the gas stations I go to here in Vegas have ethanol free gas except diesel fuel.  So where do you find ethanol free gas for your saw (cuz I am presuming none of you have an electric saw) as someone above said was necessary?


Looks like there are only 3 stations listed in Nevada that sell it. Could be more that aren't listed here:

http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=NV

Personally, I never use the ethanol free gas. I've never had any problems with regular unleaded, which contains 10% ethanol here.


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## Danno77 (Nov 1, 2014)

For those that DO have some stations that sell ethanol free nearby there is a website called pure-gas.org to show you where they are. There's also an app on my iPhone that shows me (I check just to make sure they haven't changed the gas on me!)


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## Danno77 (Nov 1, 2014)

Musta been typing while you were posting


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## Osagebndr (Nov 1, 2014)

I used to use it( regular pump gas) but noticed a difference in power when I switched to ethanol free gas, so I stayed with it


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## aansorge (Nov 1, 2014)

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/4714303317.html

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/grd/4724627668.html

Pro level saws


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## Danno77 (Nov 1, 2014)

That 026 (the $250 one) is really clean looking. Talk them down a little and you'd really have something to brag about.


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## Danno77 (Nov 1, 2014)

Not sure what the deal is with the handwritten badge, tho.


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## Bigg_Redd (Nov 1, 2014)

jillybeansisme said:


> Okay, I have to ask . . . none of the gas stations I go to here in Vegas have ethanol free gas except diesel fuel.  So where do you find ethanol free gas for your saw (cuz I am presuming none of you have an electric saw) as someone above said was necessary?



I use AvGas from my local municipal airport.  Short of that I think you're stuck running ethanol. The Iowa corn farmers know what best for your saw anyway.


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## TreePointer (Nov 1, 2014)

Ethanol gas is especially troublesome for watercraft engines, so also check for ethanol-free gasoline at stations where there is boating activity.


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## petes_sakes (Nov 2, 2014)

Are you looking to cut 18" max diameter wood? There are many smaller options if you are only looking to cut max of 18" wood, and it all depends how much patience you have.  A small saw will do much more than most people think.  Different factors like less fuel and oil consumption paired with a narrower kerf (channel made with saw cut) are some things to keep in mind.  If it is between new and used, and you have the patience for a smaller saw, i'd consider it.  You make less of a mess (if its in someone elses yard!), and there is less risk of malfunction (if you stick with a reputable brand).  Let me say in closing, there is no worse saw than one that doesn't start-


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## Ashful (Nov 2, 2014)

petes_sakes said:


> You make less of a mess (if its in someone elses yard!), and there is less risk of malfunction (if you stick with a reputable brand).


You make a good argument for smaller saws, excepting this sentence.  How does a smaller saw lower the risk of a malfunction?  Also, the kerf width argument is weak, if even applicable.


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## WiscWoody (Nov 2, 2014)

Every state should do non etho gas in the premium grade like they do in Wisconsin for us that use it in small engines. And a few stations like Cennex sell regular non oxygenated up also also. Id like to see it all pure gas some day since its a near energy wash to make it and it inflates the cost of corn chips too! Lol


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## WiscWoody (Nov 2, 2014)

Osagebndr said:


> I used to use it( regular pump gas) but noticed a difference in power when I switched to ethanol free gas, so I stayed with it


It burns cooler and has less BTUs than gas and your mileage suffers some too. I'm sure that youve heard that it breaks down fast too so its not what you want in something that'll sit for any time.


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## petes_sakes (Nov 3, 2014)

Joful said:


> You make a good argument for smaller saws, excepting this sentence.  How does a smaller saw lower the risk of a malfunction?  Also, the kerf width argument is weak, if even applicable.


 

Yea, i've heard different schools of thought on kerf, but it is my belief that the narrower the cut, the less work the saw has to do.  To each his own though.  Being someone who is looking for his first sawhe also might not be spoiled with the pace of a large saw, and appreciate the small saw for what it is.  As far as the malfunction, I mean the difference between a $200 smaller new saw, or a larger $200 used saw-


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## Danno77 (Nov 3, 2014)

petes_sakes said:


> As far as the malfunction, I mean the difference between a $200 smaller new saw, or a larger $200 used saw-


Ahhhh, I was struggling on that one, too. This makes perfect sense, now.

Of course, there is the argument that a little saw had to work harder to do the same amount of work, so might have advanced wear that a larger saw wouldn't. Of course it really depends on the saws we are talking about. I'll take my $99 Blue Max any day over a brand spanking new MS170. My only regret is that I didn't buy two of them. I don't have a lot of confidence in the lower end Stihls after having been inside of one. At least there are parts available, though.


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## Cornflakes (Nov 9, 2014)

Thanks for all the recommendations... sorry I've been busy working like a lunatic.  Not internet time....    I called the only HD that does rentals around my area and they just sold 3 of their Mikita 6421's to one guy.  

Is an ECHO CS-352 any good?  I thought about offering this guy $150.  I just need something to start up so I can begin harvesting my own wood since I have a few sources now. 
http://westmd.craigslist.org/grd/4729525876.html


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## Pennsyltucky Chris (Nov 9, 2014)

Cornflakes said:


> Is an ECHO CS-352 any good?



It's only 35cc. I would say to go with at least 42, but more realistically 50. 

Have you looked around for a used Stihl Farm Boss? Or even a 250? You can find either online for south of $250.


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## dougand3 (Nov 10, 2014)

35cc as an only saw does seem weak. Echos are well respected, tho. Echo has CS-400 and CS-590.
If you want to go a less expensive route - a 42cc Poulan with a Lo-Pro 3/8" chain is $91 at vminnovations. PoulanPro 5020 is $140 - a respected saw if brand name doesn't deter you.  I've been cutting 2-3 cords a year for 20 years with the red Craftsman. The 2 Poulans were non running when bought for $10 each. They only needed carb work and fuel lines.


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## Ashful (Nov 10, 2014)

I'm a fan of Echo OPE, but 35cc is just WAY too small to have as an only saw.  If buying only one saw, mine would be 60 - 70 cc.

Echo pro equipment is dead reliable, and that's why a lot of our local landscapers buy only Echo.  They're not generally at the forefront on performance (eg. power/weight ratio), though.


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## mecreature (Nov 10, 2014)

My local stihl dealer takes in trades and refurb them. You can grab a decent 290 for 150 bucks just about any day. 
Nothing wrong with a farmboss 290 if you are not taking it to the races.


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## Osagebndr (Nov 14, 2014)

Go for atleast 50cc and get a 60 cc later, make it a pro model you won't regret it


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## Cornflakes (Nov 19, 2014)

I think I'll take all of your words of wisdom and won't be hasty and I'll get a nice pro saw when the money allows.   Guess I'm just eager to get something so i can start harvesting wooood!


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## Wildo (Nov 19, 2014)

Very good decision.  Beware of CAD  *THERE IS NO KNOWN CURE.*


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## Ashful (Nov 19, 2014)

Wildo said:


> Very good decision.  Beware of CAD  *THERE IS NO KNOWN CURE.*


Well, there is one... but it's expensive.  You can seek temporary relief from the symptoms of CAD by buying more saws.


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## Danno77 (Nov 20, 2014)

Joful said:


> Well, there is one... but it's expensive.  You can seek temporary relief from the symptoms of CAD by buying more saws.


This is the truth. I have also found that CAD can "calmed" by purchasing things like new bar and chain combinations.


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## TreePointer (Nov 20, 2014)

I find that telling others on Internet forums what saws to purchase serves as a temporary fix.


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## Danno77 (Nov 20, 2014)

You'll notice that anybody who comes here with questions about how to fix their saw gets an offer from me. So it's kinda like I'm eternally shopping. It's nice because most people tell me "no." Helps keep me in a balance...


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## Cornflakes (Nov 20, 2014)

So it sounds like chainsaw addictions are similar to Mosin Nagant addictions? Lol   You can never have just one eh?


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## Danno77 (Nov 20, 2014)

Well, you can have just one, but really you always need one more than you have.


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