# Just finished cleaning the EKO



## Fred61 (Dec 23, 2012)

And I'm smiling Last Spring, toward the end of the heating season I proclaimed on this forum that I was going to remove all that claptrap that EKO installed to supposedly keep the tubes clean but was mainly a disincentive for frequent cleaning. I did it 

Slightly less than one cord put thru since October.

Removed the cover and reached in with a hook that snags the 2 1/2 inch ring that I attached to the top of each turb which also keeps them from dropping all the way to the floor of the lower chamber. There was a thin coating of flyash on each turb. (not microscopic). In one or two locations on each turb there was a 1/8 inch or so build-up where the turb contacts the tube. Sorry, no photo. Thought about it but you wouldn't have been able to decypher what I was seeing. Two swipes with the wire brush in each tube and the third swipe produced almost no dust. Took the turbs outside brushed them with a soft bristle brush and reinstalled. Now what am I going to do with all the extra time I had allotted to the job?


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## maple1 (Dec 23, 2012)

That's one thing I didn't really put a lot of weight on when I made my decision (ease of cleaning). But after having lived with it for a couple of months of burning now - I am really appreciating how easy mine is.

I've only got 2 out of 3 turbs installed. Open the door, pull them out with the hook tool, set them down, brush the 6 tubes in & out a couple times, then stick them back in with my gloved hands. Two minutes tops. I don't think it could be any easier. There is nothing stuck on them when they come out, and I think the action of pulling them out cleans the tubes they are in. Plus the draft keeps all the fly ash inside.

So I guess my advice would be - assess how easy a boiler is to clean if you're shopping for a new boiler, and assess how to make it easier to do it if you've already got one, as Fred did. Two thumbs up on his (although pics are always really nice  ), I know the harder things are for me to do (even if they're still not that hard to do) the more they get put off. Could be age though.


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## huffdawg (Dec 23, 2012)

I've gone about a year now with burning in summer for Dhw.   I've got my boiler about16 inches away from the wall on the left side. So there isn't enough room to pull out the turb actuator shaft.   My boiler doesn't idle unless I for get to turn on the pump to the storage.  I have sighted down from the top and all I can see in there is fly ash.  Any one use potatoe peels .  I'm wondering if you should throw them in wet or if you should dry the out first


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## Fred61 (Dec 23, 2012)

huffdawg said:


> I've gone about a year now with burning in summer for Dhw. I've got my boiler about16 inches away from the wall on the left side. So there isn't enough room to pull out the turb actuator shaft. My boiler doesn't idle unless I for get to turn on the pump to the storage. I have sighted down from the top and all I can see in there is fly ash. Any one use potatoe peels . I'm wondering if you should throw them in wet or if you should dry the out first


 Mine doesn't idle either except for about 10 minutes at the end of my daily burn. The deposits in mine were fly ash. Not something a catalyst would burn off. It definitely needs to be physically removed by brushing or wiping. I suppose an air blast would remove some of it but what I think is that it's time for you to pick up a couple sawzall blades next time you're downtown and get rid of that cumbersome shaft. It's my understanding that it doesn't take a very thick coating to really affect heat transfer.


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## Donl (Dec 23, 2012)

huffdawg said:


> I've got my boiler about16 inches away from the wall on the left side. So there isn't enough room to pull out the turb actuator shaft.


 
Huff, I might be wrong here but if I recall correctly the shaft is in two parts. I think you have enough room to remove your turbs and clean.

Don


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## huffdawg (Dec 23, 2012)

Ya I have a sneaky suspicion that i'm burning more wood than I should be n i'll have to crack it open tommorw and try to clean it. What are you guys using to clean the firetubes.   thanx guys

Huff


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## BoilerMan (Dec 23, 2012)

What are and what were your stack temps?  I was always under the impression that the stack at goos full gassing would be the best indicator of the condition of the heat exchange surface. 
I'm always in the 250-280F range with a good high bed of coals and fresh splits about 10 min into the burn.
TS


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## mr.fixit (Dec 23, 2012)

Here's a pic of the "claptrap" as fred calls it.
Next time I think I'll do what fred did and just hang the turbs in there.

The cleaning handle would be ok if it actually did something,and it might work better if the turbulators were the "coil spring" type that contact the walls of the HX tubes.
Just recently on here there was a video of a boiler from Europe(I think Hannson posted it) that had that type of turbulators with a elaborate mechanism that moved them every time the loading door was opened.

I use cup wire brush clamped to a steel rod to clean the tubes.

I agree that it doesn't take much of a layer of ash on the HX tubes to really cut down on heat transfer.


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## Fred61 (Dec 23, 2012)

I purchased a wire tube brush at the local plumbing supply house which was too large diameter but was as close as I could get to the size of the tubes. I fired up the bench grinder and spun it until the diameter was reduced to a diameter I could use. It's still a little tight but I'm going to let it wear in. I don't have enough build-up to warrant spinning the brush.


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## JP11 (Dec 24, 2012)

Fred

I don't spin the brush to clean more.. I spin it to make it easier to move.

I put it in the cordless drill, then use the slow setting.  Slow spin make the brush move very easy.  I'm gonna time myself next time.  I bet I can clean my boiler out completely in less than 10 minutes.

JP


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## Fred61 (Dec 24, 2012)

The brush I have is wire bristles captured in twisted wire. Not something I would want to spin for fear of untwisting the wire because resistance is so high. If I could pick up a cup wheel and attach it to a shaft I'd be willing to give it a try. It would probably save some time but it wouldn't be able to save much over jamming the present brush down the tube a couple times. I'm going to keep my eyes peeled for something I can apply power to.


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## weiland13 (Dec 24, 2012)

I swapped out the twisted turbulators and replaced with chain.  I tried this for two reasons.  
1 because I wanted something easier to disassemble and clean.
2 because I had a difficult time matching other eko 40 owners and the output they claimed to be getting.  I could not get the output without stack temps around 500 degrees (even after a deep clean).

I can say now that my stack temp dropped nearly 150 degrees and output has been significantly increased.  In fact I had to drastically adjust my air settings because the stack temp was even lower.  I always suspected that my draft was a bit on the high side even though it did not measure to be all that bad with the digital manometer.  I am very pleased with the results and would recommend this modification to anyone.


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## Fred61 (Dec 24, 2012)

weiland13 said:


> I swapped out the twisted turbulators and replaced with chain. I tried this for two reasons.
> 1 because I wanted something easier to disassemble and clean.
> 2 because I had a difficult time matching other eko 40 owners and the output they claimed to be getting. I could not get the output without stack temps around 500 degrees (even after a deep clean).
> 
> I can say now that my stack temp dropped nearly 150 degrees and output has been significantly increased. In fact I had to drastically adjust my air settings because the stack temp was even lower. I always suspected that my draft was a bit on the high side even though it did not measure to be all that bad with the digital manometer. I am very pleased with the results and would recommend this modification to anyone.


 What size chain?


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## weiland13 (Dec 24, 2012)

3/8 logging chain or transport chain.  I cut them to 30" long.


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## goosegunner (Dec 24, 2012)

weiland13 said:


> 3/8 logging chain or transport chain. I cut them to 30" long.


 

How did you hang the chains? Nails or existing linkage?

gg


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## weiland13 (Dec 24, 2012)

I just have them hanging on a bolt.  I like the ring idea above.  That would be pretty slick.  It really was a big breakthrough for me with the chain mod.  Like I said earlier, I could not get close to rated output without increasing my stack temp to 500 or more degrees before.  Now we have much more output and much lower stack temp.  In fact, I started a fire about a half hour ago.  Stack is at 374 (with thermocouple probe), and boiler is at 183.


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## weiland13 (Dec 24, 2012)

My settings before were as follows.
Primary 3/8"
Secondary 4 turns out
Shutter open 50%
Fan speed around 60% once up and running

Current settings are as follows
Primary 5/8" to 3/4"
Secondary 4 turns
Shutter at 100% open
Fan speed at 70% once up and running


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## mr.fixit (Dec 24, 2012)

Nice work weiland,thanks for sharing.


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## Fred61 (Dec 24, 2012)

maple1 said:


> *Two thumbs up* on his (although pics are always really nice



You want a pic of that. Here' my Wrangler that I drag behind my RV.


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## weiland13 (Dec 24, 2012)

Fred61 said:


> You want a pic of that. Here' my Wrangler that I drag behind my RV.
> 
> View attachment 86262


Once the fire is out I will post a few pictures.


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## mr.fixit (Dec 24, 2012)

Weiland your new air settings show increasing air,so with your lower flue temps that means that the chains do slow down airflow considerably more than the the originals.

Whenever I increase fan speeds,the flue temp. also rises.

Fred,is that jeep for pushing that big motorhome up mountain passes?I mean it only has a 450 in it!

Boy times have changed.Years ago I hauled around 80,000 lbs with a little 350 Detroit.


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## Fred61 (Dec 24, 2012)

mr.fixit said:


> Fred,is that jeep for pushing that big motorhome up mountain passes?I mean it only has a 450 in it


Couldn't make it over the top without it!




mr.fixit said:


> Boy times have changed.Years ago I hauled around 80,000 lbs with a little 350 Detroit


Gearing! I have to drop to 5th gear below 65 mph.


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## huffdawg (Dec 24, 2012)

Weiland. I  bought some 3/8 chain and instead of a ring at the top I was thinking of welding the top link sideways

Huff


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## huffdawg (Dec 25, 2012)




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## weiland13 (Dec 25, 2012)

huffdawg said:


> View attachment 86422
> View attachment 86423
> View attachment 86424
> View attachment 86425


Huff, did you try the chains out yet?


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## Fred61 (Dec 25, 2012)

Huff,
Your tubes don't look that bad for the length of time between cleanings. Definitely ready for brushing though. The condition of the tube area is all the more reason to dump the turb actuator as it only will eliminate larger chunks of build-up. From there you will be able to take 15 minutes every month and do brush patrol.


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## huffdawg (Dec 25, 2012)

I haven't  done the chain mod yet. My buddy with the welder is gone till tomorrow . It will take little time now that I have eliminated the actuator and cut the shaft off


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## Fred61 (Dec 25, 2012)

Don't forget to bolt a solid plate where the shaft port was.


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## Fred61 (Dec 25, 2012)

You really cut it off? I was only kidding.


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## huffdawg (Dec 25, 2012)

Well by looking at the wear pattern of the turbs it was pretty easy to tell they did  FA. I cut the shaft off. Makes it a lot easier to do the cleaning on the fire tubes .  I can weld it back together if I ever needed to.  Your suggestion was a good one  thank you Fred .


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## Fred61 (Dec 26, 2012)

Fred61 said:


> You really cut it off? I was only kidding.


 


huffdawg said:


> Well by looking at the wear pattern of the turbs it was pretty easy to tell they did FA. I cut the shaft off. Makes it a lot easier to do the cleaning on the fire tubes . I can weld it back together if I ever needed to. Your suggestion was a good one thank you Fred .


 
I was just trying to throw you into a mild state of panic   Didn't work


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## huffdawg (Dec 26, 2012)

. Temporary tube puncher


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## Fred61 (Dec 26, 2012)

Rube Goldburg would be proud of you. Are you sure you're not from New England. I grew up on a farm where with people that could get a job done with anything that was laying around.


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## BoilerMan (Dec 26, 2012)

Fred61 said:


> I grew up on a farm where with people that could get a job done with anything that was laying around.


 
Worse........Canada............ Ever seen Red Green show? Haha, I can say that because I'm minutes from the Canadian boarder.
I'm suprised there were no hockey sticks involved 
TS


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## huffdawg (Dec 26, 2012)

Taylor Sutherland said:


> Worse........Canada............ Ever seen Red Green show? Haha, I can say that because I'm minutes from the Canadian boarder.
> I'm suprised there were no hockey sticks involved
> TS


 
Yup stayed up till  330 am this morning to watch Canadian junior team play . if I didnt have that length of ready rod,  a hockey stick would of been my next option i have several.   lol. Red Green would of used duct tape I used red electricians tape


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## huffdawg (Dec 27, 2012)

Fred61 said:


> Don't forget to bolt a solid plate where the shaft port was.


 I put the shaft back in the port then put the turb handle back on.  Now my boiler is a sleeper.  I'm still gonna tell my wife to keep operating the handle before loading the boiler. Hahaha !


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## goosegunner (Dec 27, 2012)

Brushes

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/2706/=krx6ng

Rod
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/2706/=krx6n4

gg


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## Fred61 (Dec 28, 2012)

I went back in so I could measure what lengh chain I would need if I wanted to compare performance of twisted turb vs chain. While I had one pulled, I took a photo. I lied, My rings are 3" OD. 2.5" ID.


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## hartkem (Jan 9, 2013)

goosegunner said:


> Brushes
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/2706/=krx6ng
> 
> ...




Anyone know what size brush to order for an EKO 40


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## Blue Tornado (Feb 15, 2013)

Interesting stuff. Received an EKO 25 today. Had it delivered to a business address nearby. Forked from semi-trailer to a 5x10 utility trailer in just a few minutes. Then came the long part. Unloaded alone from trailer by come-along anchored to existing stove down a makeshift ramp. Then to get it off the steel pallet was more fun, alone, that little bugger is heavy. Anyway, all is good and it sits on shop floor until I install casters.

Considering what this thread is about, now would be the time to alter turbulator setup? At first look in turbulator access, I was wondering what the procedure would be to clean tubes (looked like it would be a chore) as cranking the handle did not look like it would do much. Are those twisted steel lengths for cleaning or to aid in heat transfer?

Hey guys, I sure appreciate this site and what you all have going here.


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## Fred61 (Feb 15, 2013)

Them twisted ribbons of steel are the turbulators. They are called turbulators because they interupt the laminar flow in order to provide better heat transfer. I believe that mess of hardware that activates the turbs is put in there to make us feel good. After all the excellent engineering they have in the rest of the unit, they have to know that the turb rocker is useless. I hope they don't think we're that gullible.


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## KenLockett (Feb 15, 2013)

goosegunner said:


> How did you hang the chains? Nails or existing linkage?
> 
> gg


 
Below is picture of how I hung my chain turbs.  Nuts and bolts.  On one end I used a metric nut so that it would snug down on bolt.  My chain is 1/2" transport chain.  Heavy stuff but dropped my stack temps at least 100 DegF.


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## HeatFarmer (Mar 6, 2013)

I am so glad I pulled my turbs out a year ago...what a pain it was to use them..... Even with rotating them at each loading things got fouled up. I tore the whole mess out, made a shaft to chuck in my drill that accepts 1-1/2 inch wire brushes on a hex shaft and now 3 times a year I run them through the exchanger tube and polish them up. The boiler has worked great all winter without a major cleaning, burning pitchy pine, rain & snow soaked dried wood and the odd pile of bones after a slaughter.

I have noticed that I get a bit more fly-ash in the chimney stack, but I put a tee coming off the boiler, so I can open up the bottom & brush it all down. I don't see the need for the turbs or the chains. It all seems like work. It takes 10 minutes start to finish with the drill, and the boiler can be moderately hot--as long as there isn't a significant amount of active coals in the bed.


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