# Help me find a tractor for firewood stacking



## 98kx1927 (Jun 25, 2014)

I need/want a tractor around the house for bush hogging, road maintenance, moving firewood, etc.  I've got about 38 acres partially wooded/pasture to maintain.  I've decided to store my firewood in boxes made of pallets.  I'll stack them two high in an open but covered shed.  I expect to go through 10 cords of wood per year so will be storing up to 30 cords of wood.  

The large amount of wood is what is making me want to reduce the handling aspect and use pallets to move from the wood shed to the boiler building.  

I really don't have an issue with area in the shed, it is plenty big if I can stack them two high.  The shed is 20x60.

My main concern is getting a tractor that is large enough to lift a pallet sized stack of green wood 4 feet high to stack them.

a cord of green oak weight 8200 pounds, if I get 1/4 of a cord per pallet that puts me at 2100 lbs (adding 50 pounds for the weight of the pallet/box).

Anyone out there have a tractor to do this type of work?  I'd like to keep it at 50hp or smaller if possible.  I don't really need a huge tractor for other purposes and getting it too large makes it difficult to do some of the bush hogging.  I can read specs on front end loaders, but have no idea how weight at pins relates to real lifting capacity.  I'm hoping someone here does it and can give some real world advice.

thanks,
david


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## TreePointer (Jun 25, 2014)

Actually, about 50hp would be your STARTING POINT for lifting 2000 lbs using pallet forks on a tractor.  Why?  The FEL has weight limits for safe operation, and you also need a tractor with enough mass to counterbalance that load.

A FEL without any attachment on it (bucket, pallet forks, etc.) has a weight limit at the pivot, and that limit is much lower on a tractor than on a skidsteer or forklift.  Next you need to subtract the weight of the pallet forks from your max weight limit.  If you move the center of mass of you load farther from the pivot, like say 2 to 2-1/2 feet from the FEL pivot (typical for pallets), your max load goes down even further.  If you plan to lift the load more than say a foot off the ground, the load limit goes down even further.  All these numbers are listed in a particular FEL's owners manual.


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## Applesister (Jun 25, 2014)

My next door neighbors switched to coal heat and they buy coal by the ton and on pallets. They have all sorts of tractors and they bought a forktruck. I would do the same thing.


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## 98kx1927 (Jun 25, 2014)

I have looked at a skid steer.  They do seem to be able to lift more, can handle a rotary cutter and such.  I've really no experience with them however.


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## TreePointer (Jun 26, 2014)

The utility tractor in the picture is a  1999 JD 4600 (43hp 4-cylinder diesel, 35hp CAT1 PTO) with JD 460 loader.

Specs for that combination:

Max lift height = 9.33'

Lift load to 5' with load at pivot pin = 2988 lbs max
*Lift load to 5' with load 500mm (1.64') out from pivot pin = 2325 lbs ma*x

Lift load to 9.33' with load 500mm (1.64" )out from pivot pin = 1705 lbs max
*Lift load to 9.33' with forks: 1320 lbs max*

NOTE that these are MAX loads.  That means you don't want to reach them, and you certainly don't want to be anywhere close to them on uneven ground, at faster speeds, or during tighter turns.

When I need pallet forks, I swap bucket for the 42" version of these:
http://www.everythingattachments.co...ks-1PF-JD-4-p/cal-pallet-forks-std-1pf-jd.htm


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## blades (Jun 26, 2014)

For what you are talking about doing with a tractor you are looking at roughly a 80-100 or so hp using the FEL.  New these are prohibitively expensive, Used older reasonably priced say in the 1960-70's age wise. Skid steer for this work used in reasonable shape around $15-25,000 ( around a 50-60 hp).  Fork lift around $5,000. Now SS makes a terrible unit for mowing, tilling and such-that is tractor territory. You have to remember that a SS has very little clearance under it just like a fork lift.  Fork lifts are useless on soft surfaces unless it is a rough terrain type. All that said, there are units available to put fork lift capability on the rear of a tractor using the 3 point ( min. cat 2) and frame mount system. This might be able to keep you in the 50 or so hp range with the lift capability specked. Mobility in tight quarters is another issue. If you think the prices above are nutz, wait until you start looking at compact tractors in the 40-50 hp range.  Best buys in compact tractors are the 2 wheel drive units, resale wise not so hot as 4 wheel assist is  where the markets at. Makes shopping for a used car or truck childs play in comparison.


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## aeblank (Jun 26, 2014)

I have a kubota L3940 with a la724 loader.  I think it has a 1850lb capacity.  I think you need to pick a tractor and size your pallets for it.  2,000LB is pretty stout.  Once you have a tractor, though, you won't go back.


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## maple1 (Jun 26, 2014)

Couple of points.

The 3pt mounted forklift thing mentioned above might be worth looking for - if you can find one. It's a pain to look behind you, but it's also a pain sometimes to move pallets around with a FEL as lots of time you can't see where the ends of the forks are when you're trying to get under a pallet. But, you also might not be able to reach in as far or under a roof as well with a 3pt setup as you can with a FEL. It is a naturally much better balance to have all that weight on the back (and those big back tires) rather than the front - but not always practical. In reality, FEL tractor forks are kind of a make-shift setup. But are usually a decent compromise as long as the tractor is heavy enough. But also require a heavier machine than a purpose built FEL machine.

And, can you just let the loaded pallets sit exposed outside and dry for a while (the longer the better) before you put them in the shed? Thinking with that much land, that should be possible? That's what I do - load the pallets off the splitter then just let them sit there for a few months. That would decrease the weight you'd be lifting & moving considerably.


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## lindnova (Jun 26, 2014)

For the smaller tractors, you will be lifting pallets with the 3 point in the back.  I don't see a problem with that.


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## aeblank (Jun 26, 2014)

Can't stack with 3pt forks.


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## 98kx1927 (Jun 26, 2014)

OK what I'm hearing matches what I've found myself.  I just wanted to make sure that I wasn't missing anything.  I didn't think about the ground clearance of the skid steer, that is a good point.  It looks like the best plan is to just size the pallets a little lighter, or leave them outside for a while until they weigh less.  Both of those options are doable.

david


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## flyingcow (Jun 26, 2014)

I've done this for quite a few years now. My wood is 20 inches long stacked into rows 4 feet by 4 feet on the pallet. it's all rock maple and beach. I thought I would be looking close to 2500 pounds I think it's more like 1700? Maybe even less what I found is oncethe wood stack takes up more air. but I have a new Holland tn75 tractor. Handle it easily.I have handled pallets of pellets which are 2000 pounds. They feel a lot heavier than my wood pallets.


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## flyingcow (Jun 26, 2014)

I stack all the wood up in a single row and it is left outside for at least one year. When I stack the wood on pallets I round them up so I feel like a pretty close to a half a cord.


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## jeffesonm (Jun 26, 2014)

I just went through this exact same search, and landed on a JD 4500 with 460 loader.  You can also look for one of the large Kubota L series, or a New Holland TC40.  Generally something in the 40+ hp range.  If you don't stack the pallets you can use the 3pt forks and get away with a much smaller machine.

Also if your budget is smaller you can also look at older industrial tractors... something like a Ford 2120, Ford 4000, Case 580, etc.  They are harder to find with 4x4 but still have a PTO/3pt hitch and you can get much more lift capacity for your dollar....  I just sold a 1962 Oliver OC-46 crawler that could lift 2500 lbs and only cost $2500.


*edit* - Also if you do plan to lift with the FEL, get a real set of forks that replaces the bucket.  The clamp on forks hang out too far and then you're lifting the bucket too when you don't need to.  Also if you have both the 3 pt and FEL forks, you can lift a pallet with the 3 pt and use it for ballast while you life another with the FEL.


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## Clarkbug (Jun 26, 2014)

I would say go with 3 pt forks and a single stack in your shed.  Keep the others outside to maximize drying.  

Would allow you to have a cheaper tractor and have dryer wood.  

I'm going through a similar thought process and am looking for a loader tractor for the utility.  A Massey 135 is very high on my list...


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## skfire (Jun 26, 2014)

I run a mc cormick 47hp, loader rated for 2100lbs, forks rated for 3000lds and would not dream of stacking pallet racks.....single stacks, keep low to ground and slow....no joke
scott


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## maple1 (Jun 26, 2014)

skfire said:


> I run a mc cormick 47hp, loader rated for 2100lbs, forks rated for 3000lds and would not dream of stacking pallet racks.....single stacks, keep low to ground and slow....no joke
> scott



Are your tires loaded?


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## flyingcow (Jun 26, 2014)

I keep my wood, single rows, outside for one yr sometimes longer( I mow around the rows, plus round up, wife thinks I'm nuts). But when it gets close the first of November I put the dry stuff in two different garages, stacked as you see in my avatar. But i have to go in thru out the winter put them on the ground as needed. Tractor handles them easy, but it's a good sized tractor. I plan on building bigger racks out of steel. 6ft wide, 4ft high, x 40 inches. And design the racks so i can still stack them. Wooden pallets only last so long. 

BUT....if i had bought a nice pellet boiler......be alot simpler.


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## skfire (Jun 26, 2014)

maple1 said:


> Are your tires loaded?


yes and use a 60" back blade with d.o.t. chains wrapped around the 3pt for counterweight. A 48"x42"x48" rack full of green oak is a hairy beast..


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## flyingcow (Jun 27, 2014)

skfire said:


> yes and use a 60" back blade with d.o.t. chains wrapped around the 3pt for counterweight. A 48"x42"x48" rack full of green oak is a hairy beast..




A buddy down the road has a 40hp JD uses the same pallets I have, he has all he can do to carry them. He does load them on a trailer but its on very level ground.


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## Boiler74 (Jun 27, 2014)

I have a Deere 4710. I don't remember the exact specs. I think it's 48 horse. Have 48" pallet forks on the front. The forks are very useful. Get a ballast box for the 3pt to balance things out with a heavy load. Helps a lot and the box doesn't stick out as far as a blade or bush hog. Mine has about 1600 lbs in it. 

I can't speak to lifting what you are speaking of but below is a picture of the hopper I built to bring wood up to the house. It started life as a raised planting bed. I flipped it over and made this. It's 48" square. Rolls right up to the door next to the stove.


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## skfire (Jun 27, 2014)

flyingcow said:


> A buddy down the road has a 40hp JD uses the same pallets I have, he has all he can do to carry them. He does load them on a trailer but its on very level ground.




Level ground would be nice....I leveled the staging area some with #3 gravel, but getting to the back of the house under the porch is a PITA....hilly, bumpy, wet(april to july & sept to nov)...I take my time and also have to secure the load with chains/straps...but it beats handling them piece by piece. Last year on a 48"x42"(inside)x48" full load of green oak, just moving 25 feet outside the level area, the tractor was dancing....I am not making 48" wide pallets anymore..only 42" or 36" and 48" high

This would be nice...https://www.kubota.com/product/svl75/SVL75.aspx ....  in my dreams..

scott


ps: moving my barrel sauna...that was a nightmare.....had to stage all kinds of contraptions to even unload it from the truck.....tractor loader capacities(ratings go out the window) are severely compromised with distances from pivot points...and danger increases as well...


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## flyingcow (Jun 27, 2014)

To the OP. Tractors are nice to have. I sldp bushhog 50 yo 75 acres a yr, snow blow my yard,etc. And with minimum maintence will last at least 2 lifetimes.


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## TreePointer (Jun 27, 2014)

My advice:

Get the tractor that first meets your needs for field cutting, road maintenance, snow blowing/removal, materials handling, etc.  For example, get a model that has enough rear PTO horsepower to run the size of brush cutter appropriate for your fields.   Once you've met your top priorities, then you can tailor your firewood system to the specifications of that tractor.


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## 98kx1927 (Jun 27, 2014)

After reading all the input from everyone, I like TreePointer's advice.  

To buy a tractor that could lift 2500 pounds easily for stacking I end up with a tractor that is too large for my other uses.  I have several 1-2 acre pastures that need mowing and don't want a huge tractor.  I have access to a nice big NH ~125HP tractor by driving 10 minutes to my brothers place and driving it back, so I really don't want to buy a big tractor.  If I need one for one off things I'll borrow his.  Things like unloaded a nice new boiler 

I'll instead go for a tractor for the "around the house" items, and size my pallet stacks to match the tractor.

In the end the answer seems simple, it just took me a bit to figure it out 

david


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## flyingcow (Jun 27, 2014)

And if needed, you can easily haul a 40/50hp. or smaller tractor with a 1/2 ton pickup. My unit needs 3/4 or better.


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## skfire (Jun 28, 2014)

moved some pallets under the deck today..here are some pix of the rig and a pic of the barrel sauna..that almost wiped me out...

Scott


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## TreePointer (Jun 28, 2014)

And I'll bet you moved that load like a good BBQ.  Low and slow.


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## skfire (Jun 29, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> And I'll bet you moved that load like a good BBQ.  Low and slow.


 oh yeah...you should have seen me go down the hill....could have roasted a pig and downed a six ....


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## blades (Jun 29, 2014)

What some have done is to use the lift ram set up from a fork lift and fab a mount for the 3 point , then use tractor hydro for the  ram power.  Lots of messing around and additional valves would be needed or a stand alone pump & valve system operating off 12v like from a snowplow.  With any lifting one needs to be aware of the forces involved and how they relate to the mounting of the lifting device. Overloading a fel can break the frame of the tractor depending on how it is mounted same on the 3 point system. Fel on a tractor is a convenience device it does not take the place of say a forklift or a skid steer. An option for tight quarters stacking of pallets would be a walk behind lift there are manual ones as well as electric versions. But has to be on hard  relatively smooth surface. Counter balances are fine to a point but can give you an over confidence on the equipments ability resulting damage.  Heck we all need more big boy toys anyway. It just the paying for them that tends to get in the way.


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## clemsonfor (Jun 29, 2014)

If u use the three point hitch you can move 2000 lbs with a pretty small tractor.


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## clemsonfor (Jun 29, 2014)

Do you have a tractor now? Have 38 acres and no tractor?


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## 98kx1927 (Jun 29, 2014)

I just bought the place last fall.  I'm in the process of renovating the house and getting things setup.  I've just been borrowing my brothers tractors as needed, but want to get my own.


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## clemsonfor (Jun 29, 2014)

I was figuring that wasmaybe the case.

My brother in law bought a place in Kansas... maybe 60 acres? No tractor no access to one and can't afford one and it has open areas??  Doesnt even have someone to hay it for him set up. This will be like the second growing season. I told him he better hurry or else he will spend forever getting.g those pastries back!!


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## clemsonfor (Jun 29, 2014)

pastries....haha


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## JP11 (Jul 5, 2014)

I guess I'll be a bit contrarian here.

I'm doing pallets.  I actually took a pallet of firewood that was pretty much green down to the scales.  I can't remember exactly.. but I was around 1500lbs.

I do have forks that are mounted on a skid steer plate.  So it's closer in with the load.  My issue ended up being height, as I stack 3 high. So I ended up with forklift.  I could have easily stacked 2 high with the tractor. 

My tractor is a 35 horse kubota L with a cab and loaded tires.

If you're going to use standard pallets.  That's a 40x48.  I cut 24" wood.  so two rows stacked.  I use cross boards to hold the top of the pallets together.  That ends up being 48x40x36 or so (pallets overlap at the base). I usually round over the top with the odd pieces.

3.3 pallets of firewood per cord.

The bigger issues are this.  Pallet forks need to be 4'  or better length, otherwise the forks don't lift flat, and I've dumped a few stacks by boards underneath breaking. A piece of plywood across the bottom of pallet sometimes doesn't hurt either.  With short forks you need to make sure your ground touching boards stay rugged.  It's tippy if you aren't reaching all the way thru.  I'm spoiled now with a real forklift and 6' forks.  Much more secure.  

The other hard part is this.  You gotta be slow and smooth with the tractor.  The higher you lift, the more tilting you'll have to do.  Go very slow.  Think of it this way, you're moving a whole lot of wood at once.  You don't need to be fast.


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## skfire (Jul 5, 2014)

JP11 said:


> I guess I'll be a bit contrarian here.
> 
> I'm doing pallets.  I actually took a pallet of firewood that was pretty much green down to the scales.  I can't remember exactly.. but I was around 1500lbs.
> 
> ...



Sounds  about right:

different species of wood, stacking methods and different sizes of pallets create variables,
Here is on of my average pallet condition:
48"x42" base pallet with (2) of same stacked on 48" up(sitting on top of base pallet(not sides))
Inner usable area 41.5"x42"x48", 48.4 cb ft.
Usual suspects, white & red oak, ash, hard maple (packed crossed on bottom, tight on top)
Weight per cord(green), per this:http://forestry.usu.edu/htm/forest-products/wood-heating:
Ash, White 3952lbs
Oak, White 5573lbs
Oak, Red 4888lbs
Maple,  4685lbs

average 4,774.5 lbs per cord, @ 48.4 cb, ft/pallet = 1,805.3 lbs per pallet

on flat packed surfaces, all day,,still slow and low....but sides of hills and uneven terrain...trouble if not with care.
I avoid stacking for a few reasons, but my area of storing for winter is not conducive to stacks.

SK


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## JP11 (Jul 5, 2014)

A HA.  so.. you end up with a narrower package, but taller.  I really can't switch easy now, as my pallet racking is all in.  Would have worked.  The weak point is sure the joint where you fasten together pallets.  I've pondered a bit of metal strapping or something to brace the corners.  I figure even buying pallets delivered I'm making each U for about 8 bucks.  I've gotten two and three uses out of them so far.  I do a little rebuilding and beefing up each time they are empty.  I've got a bunch of rough lumber from a beam sawing project.  Works fine for rebuilds even though it's just hemlock.

The pallets are where it's at if you've got the equipment and the space to move around.  I think my inventory is about 75 U's right now. Need another 33 to make 3 years worth.  My plan is two years outside, last year in the barn.  

maneuvering a pallet of 1500lbs of firewood on the end of a front end loader with forks takes a fair amount of room.  That's the other negative thing I found.  My barn had to have near everything out of it to get around and get the wood down off the racks.   Forklift sure does turn on a dime, and gets about 10 FEET closer to lift.  Old junker forklift might be an option for some folks.  Just depends on your wood shed.  Plan for A LOT of maneuver room with a tractor.  go SLOW!  it stinks to dump a pallet. I've done it too often.

JP


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## Charlie2 (Jul 5, 2014)

David,
    Good advice from TreePointer, also double check your weights on a cord of wood. Heaviest I found was 5,800 lb per cord of green white oak, red oak was around 5,500 lb, that would make your weight including the box 1,425 lb., that would be a big help, if indeed those numbers I found are accurate.


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## flyingcow (Jul 6, 2014)

one other thing to point out.if a cord of hardwood let's say weighs five thousand pounds,that is in tree length or long log form. would you cut it short and split it into many pieces it will take up a little bit more room.so you can have a pallet design that will hold close to half a cord you're only looking at maybe 1700 pounds?


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## flyingcow (Jul 6, 2014)

my tractor has a lift capacity of 2300 pounds.I can lift my palette of green wood that is about 59 to 62 cu/ft pallet very very easily. my wood is stacked two rows of 20 inch wood. Time is 48 inches long times 48 inches high. And I round the pallets up just as much as I can. 40 inches times 48 inches x 48 in inches = 92160 inches. There are 1728 inches  in a cubic foot. I think I did the math right?


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## skfire (Jul 6, 2014)

flyingcow said:


> my tractor has a lift capacity of 2300 pounds.I can lift my palette of green wood that is about 59 to 62 cu/ft pallet very very easily. my wood is stacked two rows of 20 inch wood. Time is 48 inches long times 48 inches high. And I round the pallets up just as much as I can. 40 inches times 48 inches x 48 in inches = 92160 inches. There are 1728 inches  in a cubic foot. I think I did the math right?



yes Sir....math is spot on

also I forgot to include the weight of the pallet rack(40lbs per pallet), total 120lbs.+ 1,800 for wood+weight or FEL Fork rig(300lbs), total lift = 2,220lbs.
You guys inspired me and yesterday I cut up some half rigs(24" high and stacked them, over the full height ones...pretty tight fit under the deck underside roofing...but it worked..)

Scott


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## Charlie2 (Jul 6, 2014)

skfire,   Sorry, but like a fool, I *thought* I was on the second page when I responded to David about the weight of red oak, I didn't realize there was a whole page ahead of my response and that you had already given the weights of wood. If you put my answer at the end of the first page, it'd make more sense, it'd still be a screw up though.


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## skfire (Jul 6, 2014)

Charlie2 said:


> skfire,   Sorry, but like a fool, I *thought* I was on the second page when I responded to David about the weight of red oak, I didn't realize there was a whole page ahead of my response and that you had already given the weights of wood. If you put my answer at the end of the first page, it'd make more sense, it'd still be a screw up though.


 
all good ....you should see my list of ingenuity

sk


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## 98kx1927 (Jul 6, 2014)

I'm not sure how I screwed up the weight so badly.  I used the same website, I'll blame it on a  brain fart.  

david


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## flyingcow (Jul 6, 2014)

JP11 said:


> I guess I'll be a bit contrarian here.
> 
> Contrarian......is that like being in pain in the ass but being correct about it?


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## JP11 (Jul 6, 2014)

LOL..  Everyone was saying 40 plus HP.. and talking like you'd have a half cord.  The reality is kind of different.  You CAN find the bigger pallets. I went thru the hour and a half exercise to actually weigh the pallet full of wood, and have been successful with a smaller tractor.  

Moving a third of a cord at a time is great.  If you've got the need for the tractor, the whole operation takes on a different level of labor savings.  I lift the round to the splitter, splitter to pallet, pallet to boiler.  Only other savings I could get would be a processor.  Then it's logs with forks, splits drop onto conveyor into bags.. touch it once to boiler.  But I can't quite get over the processor price.  

JP


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## Charlie2 (Jul 6, 2014)

David, I'm going to blame it on senility, but I've heard there some perks to senility, first one is "you can hide your own Easter eggs".


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## BrotherBart (Jul 7, 2014)

Charlie2 said:


> David, I'm going to blame it on senility, but I've heard there some perks to senility, first one is "you can hide your own Easter eggs".



And get to meet so many new people.


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## Charlie2 (Jul 7, 2014)

Not only will you forget your BIL didn't return those tools he borrowed, you'll forget your BIL.


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## Ashful (Jul 8, 2014)

I've been watching this thread with much amusement.  Seems a mighty difficult and expensive way to stack a few cords of wood.  Might we just be looking for an excuse to justify the purchase of a newer / bigger tractor?  

My little 25 hp diesel machine can lift pallets of wood, using forks on the 3pt, but not high enough to stack 'em.  The FEL bypass valve dumps out around 1100 - 1200 lb.


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## flyingcow (Jul 8, 2014)

to some extent you are correct. I have a 700 Foot driveway plus a couple other parking lots that I use my tractor to clear snow with. I have about 50 sometimes 75 acres of fields the bush hog in the summer. and I'll burn anywhere from 12 to 16 cord of wood in a year. TN75hp New Holland tractor is smaller than what I've had before. Last tractor was 145hp Massey. So I've downsized.


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## JP11 (Jul 8, 2014)

Not all of us are only 'playing' on our tractors.  

My drive is a half a mile.  Only the last 300 feet are paved.  Summer leveling, winter plowing and snow blowing.  Not to mention the brush hogging, running the wood chipper.... on and on.  I sure don't want to stack and re stack 10 cords of wood a year.  Tractor makes it bearable.

JP


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## skfire (Jul 8, 2014)

JP11 said:


> Not all of us are only 'playing' on our tractors.
> 
> My drive is a half a mile.  Only the last 300 feet are paved.  Summer leveling, winter plowing and snow blowing.  Not to mention the brush hogging, running the wood chipper.... on and on.  I sure don't want to stack and re stack 10 cords of wood a year.  Tractor makes it bearable.
> 
> JP


 same here....900 feet of modified driveway, off a red shale road and acres of woods to harvest...
scott


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## Ashful (Jul 8, 2014)

JP11 said:


> Not all of us are only 'playing' on our tractors.


I don't know anyone who likes "playing" with tractors.  They're a tool to get a job done.  Some of us just find ways to do more work with less machine.  

Me?  I'm only clearing 6000 sq.ft. of driveway with my 25 hp machine, which takes me maybe 30 minutes with 12" of fresh snow.  If doing a half mile of drive + brush hog + chipper, I could get by with what I have, but I'd be shopping 40 hp if buying new for that purpose.  Big tractors might be more fun, but I'm not using it for fun, and don't see much pointing in spending and storing more than I really need for those jobs.


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## flyingcow (Jul 8, 2014)

I am in a trucking business. Small business one truck in it.so a good parent of that tractor I use as a deduction. But I normally dont my pickups maybe once every 10 years? Same with my cars one every 10 years proximately. I got one heck of a steal on a 75 horse tractor. I was shooting for 50 or 60 horse unit.but once I saw the price I didn't hesitate. One nice thing about tractors once you find the right one for the job.they will be around for your grandkids to use into their adult lives if even just half ass mean maintained. every time I buy a used pickup I seem like I'm peeing my money in the wind.but I do need it.the tractor was a no brainer


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## Charlie2 (Jul 8, 2014)

flyingcow, You can have any dad burn tractor you want, bigger is always better, ---------------but sometimes it ain't.
    For instance, proctology comes to mind, in this instance, look for a doctor with small hands.


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## skfire (Jul 8, 2014)

Charlie2 said:


> flyingcow, You can have any dad burn tractor you want, bigger is always better, ---------------but sometimes it ain't.
> For instance, proctology comes to mind, in this instance, look for a doctor with small hands.


 
wow
first hanging Easter eggs and now proctologist.....time to bail....


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## flyingcow (Jul 8, 2014)

skfire said:


> wow
> first hanging Easter eggs and now proctologist.....time to bail....




Buckle up. May be a short ride.....


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## bpirger (Jul 18, 2014)

You guys using pallet,  do you start literally with a pallet?  When I tried to do this, I found it was difficult to get the forks under the pallet....uneven ground, uneven pallet forks (clamp on forks and my bucket is a little bent), and I can't see the forks.  I spent a summer burning some crappy white pine for DHW and I'd fill up a pallet and move it into the Garn barn.  What I had to do was put the pallet on the forks, then load the pallet and drop it off in the shed.  I also learned that one has to invest some time into building the pallets, i.e. bolting things together, not just a few nails.  Otherwise the pallet structure just seemed to fall apart.  I still believe in the idea, but it does seem like it might be better to build ones own pallet bases with more clearance for the forks, and build them strong. 

I bought a load of log siding and tried to unload it with the tractor....not a chance.  Bundles were up high on the trailer (maybe 8' to bottom?) and while I finally got the forks underneath, I could barely lift it up.   Then it wasn't well balanced and driving up 900' driveway it dumped off, despite the chain.  Huge bugger.  I ended up having to unload down in town with a forklift and then haul the bundles up on a flatbed pickup...where the tractor was able to pick them off.  But I had someone guiding my forks beneath the bundles....I can't see a thing from the seat.  Delivery was supposed to be on a gooseneck trailer behind a F450....which could make it up the driveway.  When I heard the roar of the semi coming up the hill, and the fully loaded flatbed trailer (2/3 or so was mine), I was pissed to say the least....and they never told me about the change.  What a day that was.


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## aeblank (Jul 18, 2014)

I wonder too.  My dad has some old wire baskets (maybe 40" x 48" x 40" or something).  They are great for hauling wood, with forks of course.
I had the brainstorm of how awesome it would be to have 20, or 50, or whatever number of those.  They stack on each other with a pin/socket.  Very stable, very safe, very durable.  But then I find they're $185-ish each on the used market.  OUCH.  If only.

I can do a lot of multiple movings/stackings for $10K.

Using wooden pallets seems like I'd spend as much time dinking with the pallets as I would just moving the wood around.

Maybe I'm missing something though......


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## JP11 (Jul 18, 2014)

The pallets I use have no bolts.  I use nothing but a handful of sheetrock screws.  Maybe 4 or 5 on each side at the base.(pallet 'walls' overlap the sides of the 'floor') and get screwed in.

Then two pieces of whatever is laying around (my favorite is 1x6) that make the brace pieces across the top.  8 screws total in there.

I can't see the forks from my seat either.  rough ground will get you.  I make sure the pallet is sort of flat when I load it.  If you have bolt on forks, sometimes those are awful thick.  I have actual forklift forks, mounted on a skid steer plate. Maybe that's the difference.  The forks are maybe 1/2 to 3/4inch thick at the point.

You do need to go slow.  You can't set the pallet down on uneven ground (it will shift the load and it will blow out)  but the reality is you are moving a third of a cord in a few minutes.  It's worth it.  

I don't think any of us has really taken some up close pics of how were building the pallets.  I'm off for 9 days after this trip, and I've got a few pallets kicking around.  I'll try to show my method with some good pics..  

JP


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## Ashful (Jul 18, 2014)

I stack on pallets, but I don't move on 'em.


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## skfire (Jul 18, 2014)

clamped ones....no play....but it all takes practice..
.I tilt the forks a few inches before the pallet so I can see and line up and then drop slowly and approach...
Last year I spread some #2 and 3 stone on my storage area, which helps with drainage under the pallets and also leveled it abit.
I cracked a couple on approach...but practice makes perfect
scott


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## clemsonfor (Jul 18, 2014)

I bought a carport this year and will be using it as a woodshed. I will stack on pallets, but I won't move them. That was the plan with the double carport to be used as another shed, just stack in there and rotate where I pull and stack from. Will allow me to have 3 years under cover.


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## maple1 (Jul 18, 2014)

Get the pallets in the air some by putting a split under each corner. Gives a lot more to come & go on when getting under with the forks.

I've got a couple of pallet setups going on - I'll try to remember to take some pics. Actually, I think I'll maybe try to do some splitting & stacking right now - or as soon as the pizza settles a bit - so will see what happens. The last few I made I started with scrounged plastic pallets. They had cutouts in the ends or I guess along the sides that I could use to hold the bottoms of uprights. Then close to the tops of the uprights, I tie peices of old clothesline across & finish piling on top of the clothesline. Makes things fairly solid - and I can take them apart & pile them up collapsed like when empty. No worries about them rotting, but not sure yet how durable they'll be.

I move the pallets with a FEL to my basement entrance, then a pallet jack in the basement. Sure makes things easier when it's time to put some wood in.

Wasn't there a pallet stacking/handling thread going on at one time? Pics of everyones setups in that might be a help, might get lost in this thread...


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## flyingcow (Jul 18, 2014)

What I'm finding out is the 3 sided pallets I have are good for about 2 yrs at best. Then it's patching up time, or throw 'em away. And yes the best way to make them last is to load the empty pallet on the tractor and load the wood on to it. Set it where you want and don't touch again until you have to. And the ground is hard on the pallets. it shifts, etc. I can't see the forks going under the pallets either. Go slow and easy. Also, clamp on forks are not the best, but use what you have. I've priced out building metal ones........I'll keep looking for free pallets or some I can but for a buck or two. Also,  got lucky and bought a big bundle of cedar 2x3's 8ft long. use these as sleepers. Got a bog bundle for $25. Priceless.


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## JP11 (Jul 18, 2014)

I've had pretty good luck just setting the pallets on some scrap 1" slabs.  you know.. like live edges 1"x8"  

just enough to keep them out of the moisture.

will take some pics next week.


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## Mikel Ward (Jul 19, 2014)

I could not imagine managing my firewood without a tractor and using pallets.
I never bring them into the garage- one year I brought the mice and their nests in too
I always try to put a sacrificial pallet under my wood pallet and I keep them covered.
I have 20 or so made and the oldest is 6 years or so.


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## Mikel Ward (Jul 19, 2014)

I was at the stone quarry and saw the small wood pallets they used for stone and made mine larger but based on their idea.
If the bottom goes bad the separate sides can be reused with another bottom. I haven't had any go bad yet and the oldest are 6 yrs old now


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## Mikel Ward (Jul 19, 2014)

I worked hard to get ahead on wood and now I have too much to put it all on pallets.
So I've started using them as bookends and stack wood between them usually 2 pallets deep and 6 foot high
I make a short 28 inch high pallet that I can stack on top of the big one


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## Charlie2 (Jul 19, 2014)

Mikel Ward said:


> I worked hard to get ahead on wood and now I have too much to put it all on pallets.
> So I've started using them as bookends and stack wood between them usually 2 pallets deep and 6 foot high
> I make a short 28 inch high pallet that I can stack on top of the big one
> 
> ...


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## clemsonfor (Jul 19, 2014)

Ward is that new metal roofing u use?


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## Mikel Ward (Jul 19, 2014)

clemsonfor said:


> Ward is that new metal roofing u use?




The local lumber yard had some 5 foot overhangs they removed and they sold me the red metal roofing for half price
I got 8 to try out and loved it.
I ordered more in 8 ft lengths  to make a removable roof on a couple of 8 ft square hot tub skids.
You can see them above the green 6 ft stepladder in post # 71


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## tsquini (Jul 19, 2014)

You can do a lot with a little tractor. Sometimes it's not the hp that is the issue.  I use a kubota xb25 to remove snow. Sometime it just does not weight enough to push it around.


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## clemsonfor (Jul 19, 2014)

Yep small tractors will loose traction usually way before power. Thats why ballast is your friend on a small tractor. 

On my 25hp tractor I have the rears filled with WW fluid bit thats only like 9.?? Gallons so only 75lb a tire. And have almost 200lb on the front to hold it down. I wish I could get ahold of some wheel weights to add another few hundred pounds to the rear. The tractor pulled ground engaging implements totally different when I filled the rears. Only that 150# made all the difference. It spins the rears less now when it pulls.

I only have a 2wd tractor though so I loose it easier than all those baby 4wd tractors. I think 4wd is equal to something like an additional 2-4hp??


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## TreePointer (Jul 20, 2014)

4WD also keeps your undershorts clean when attempting to back up a moderate grade with a heavy front load.


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## skfire (Jul 20, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> 4WD also keeps your undershorts clean when attempting to back up a moderate grade with a heavy front load.


 ..

undershorts?????????
Commando tractor operations...


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## Ashful (Jul 21, 2014)

A 24hp machine can move quite a bit of snow, when coupled with a snowblower.


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