# Confused: 2 year old 15% moisture wood hissing and steaming



## KC Matt (Jan 3, 2018)

I'm scratching my head right now.  

This wood was split at least 2 years ago and has been covered for the last year.  It's mostly red oak, with some ash and hedge mixed in.  Stacked on pallets, on pavement, on a slope, full exposure with no trees or obstructions within 50 feet.  Stacked in 2 rows with a gap between.

So I burned the west side of the stack and it burned well but now I'm burning the east side and it's spewing water and steam and hissing like it was split yesterday.  Every piece is hissing, and there is some ash burning.

On a fresh split just an hour ago, with the probe going along the grain, the highest moisture I could measure was 15% and that's finding the wettest spot and switching the "modes" of the sensor to find the highest reading.  The wood feels and looks dry.  Bang a split on the concrete and it goes "DING" like a bell.

We have had 1/4" of snow and no other moisture in a couple months.  

What am I missing here?


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## FaithfulWoodsman (Jan 3, 2018)

Moisture is our constant nemesis as wood burners. Ive been where u are scratching my head. However even at 15%, that water still has to burn off. I find regularly 1-2yr cherry and ash sizzle on the side put on hot coals for a few minutes then stop. Commons sense says that side boils quick causing a rapid exit of water, the rest of the split gasses off more ballanced. From what i see there are two explanations-either the west stack got way more air and was <10% or your meter is innaccurate. If this is only happening for a few minutes 5-10, then i say its nothing out of the ordinary. If its more like what I think you are describing (split yesterday) and foaming like crazy, there is more than 15% in there. Maybe the prevailing wind didnt do much for that stack. One thing. I am burning 2.5 year css red oak from a dead tree that was already drying and while burning ok, it deff could use another year before id say its trouble free. No real sizzling, but it does leach water out the sides almost like sweat kinda. Obviously there is an absolute didference between the two stacks.


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## FaithfulWoodsman (Jan 3, 2018)

Last thought. Did u measure that split at room temp or frozen cold. They measure far less moisture in the cold.


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## gzecc (Jan 3, 2018)

Red oak takes 3 yrs. I avoid it at most cost.


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## lindnova (Jan 4, 2018)

Red oak doesn't like to give up its moisture.  3 years is normal for me, but then it is great. I have 3-5 year oak in my stacks now.  Open cover for 2 years, cover the last year, and put in the shed in the fall to eliminate any rain on it.  Sounds like there are some wetter pockets on one side of your pile - maybe less sun?  No big deal, just leave that side for later.

I find that wood I bring in fresh the first day or 2 doesn't get going as good as wood that sat in the house for 2 or more days. I suppose there is some condensation that happens on the cold wood that needs to dry off after it warms up.


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## Jags (Jan 4, 2018)

As FW asked...did you test frozen wood, or unfrozen?  They will test differently. Was the stack top covered or sides as well? When the wood is sizzling look at the end of the piece.  Is water coming from the outer edges, or is it coming from the core as well.  Outer edges is most likely just surface moisture.  Core is unseasoned wood.


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## cahaak (Jan 4, 2018)

There is no way the wood will hiss at 15% MC.  There has to be free water for that to occur and that is way above 15% MC.  If the wood is frozen, it will ring for sure, but may not be dry.  Three years covered with adequate ventilation should be plenty of time to dry except in some unusual cases.  In any case, hissing indicates that it has a high MC, or it was highly surface wetted recently.


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## KC Matt (Jan 5, 2018)

Thanks for the replies.

Ok, to answer a few questions: the split I measured had been inside for 24 hours.  When it was hissing, the previous day or so, the wood was frozen- like below zero.  My Tundra has struggled in the brutal cold so I've been switching back and forth to the gas furnace.  That same load is now burning much better after being inside for a couple days. 

The stacks are covered along the top and down about 6" on each side.  It's working much better now but as everybody said, oak needs 3 years.  I'll probably avoid taking much more of it for just that reason.


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## maple1 (Jan 5, 2018)

Your meter could be a bit wonky maybe?


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## coutufr (Jan 5, 2018)

Measure the humidity in the bark not just the inside of the split. Maybe the wind brought snow inside your stack then the sun melted it and moisture  got in the bark


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## Sprinter (Jan 6, 2018)

So how is the burn after the initial sizzling?  Is it still oozing water from the ends?  How does the window look?  Does it take a long time for the box to get hot and secondaries burning?  

If it's top covered only down a few inches, the splits have probably accumulated some water on the ends and maybe a bit into the bark as suggested above, but superficially.  My guess is that it's no worry.  Let it dry indoors as you did before burning.  A little water under the bark or soaked in a little on the ends is no big deal, but the less water, the better, of course and superficial water will evaporate indoors pretty quickly. 

My cover is a canopy-like design that helps keep water from the ends, but wind will still get to it sometimes. 

Oak? IDK, I have no source for it, but most say three years in a well ventilated stack.  But correct use of a moisture meter at room temperature will tell the tale for sure (inside face of a fresh split).  If it's dry enough, around 20%, then the number of years is irrelevant, which is why I'm such a believer in the meters.


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## BamaScroungr (Jan 6, 2018)

I'm convinced that even seasoned wood will absorb ambient moisture from the air when it's humid or wet outside.


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## FaithfulWoodsman (Jan 6, 2018)

BamaScroungr said:


> I'm convinced that even seasoned wood will absorb ambient moisture from the air when it's humid or wet outside.


It absolutely does. I can tell a difference in wood i bring in when its been dry out or when its been warmer and rainy. The wood itself is dry, no rain on it, but it feels a bit heavier and takes longer to off gas in the stove. Whithin a day or two its perfect. Think about how wood trim contracts in dry wintr air, but expands due to humidity in summer. Its not the temp making it do that. My house is 70 all year. My dads a luthier. Wood humidity is his thing.


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## weatherguy (Jan 6, 2018)

Try bringing a few days worth inside and let it dry by the stove before you put it in the stove, see if that makes a difference.


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## Woodsplitter67 (Jan 7, 2018)

There something wrong. 15% moisture wood dose not hiss, steam. Wood of 30% will do that. There is somthing wrong with the way eather your checking the wood or your MM is bad.
Wood dose not lie, seasoned wood burns clean and hot, unseasoned wood throws steam, and hisses.
The time frame the OP seasoned  the wood doesn't  matter, the wood will still be on the higher end if the conditions are lacking for proper for drying


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## Sailrmike (Jan 7, 2018)

KC Matt said:


> Thanks for the replies.
> 
> Ok, to answer a few questions: the split I measured had been inside for 24 hours.  When it was hissing, the previous day or so, the wood was frozen- like below zero.  My Tundra has struggled in the brutal cold so I've been switching back and forth to the gas furnace.  That same load is now burning much better after being inside for a couple days.
> 
> The stacks are covered along the top and down about 6" on each side.  It's working much better now but as everybody said, oak needs 3 years.  I'll probably avoid taking much more of it for just that reason.


What's with the " oak needs three years"? I'm burning white and red oak that has been css for less than two years.  I live in a very damp area, get a little sun on my stacks, and tons of fog. My oak wood burns great at less than two years seasoned. Average size splits, they usually light up before my loading door is shut.  Stove gets up to temp quick, maintains secondaries for 2-3 hours. Glass stays crystal clear too [emoji3] with my damper fully shut. A blanket statement that oak needs three years to season well is simply not true in my experience


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## bholler (Jan 7, 2018)

Sailrmike said:


> What's with the " oak needs three years"? I'm burning white and red oak that has been css for less than two years.  I live in a very damp area, get a little sun on my stacks, and tons of fog. My oak wood burns great at less than two years seasoned. Average size splits, they usually light up before my loading door is shut.  Stove gets up to temp quick, maintains secondaries for 2-3 hours. Glass stays crystal clear too [emoji3] with my damper fully shut. A blanket statement that oak needs three years to season well is simply not true in my experience


I agree i get my red oak down to 20% or less in a year.  There are to many variables to give it a set time


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## Sprinter (Jan 7, 2018)

bholler said:


> I agree i get my red oak down to 20% or less in a year.  There are to many variables to give it a set time


Which is why I always urge the use of a moisture meter.   As mentioned in post 11 above, the proper use of a meter makes the amount of time irrelevant and you know instantly if it's burnable yet.  Just use it randomly until you are confident with that stack or when you are unsure.  For 15 bucks or so, it takes the guesswork out.


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## maple1 (Jan 7, 2018)

I still suspect a wonky meter. Mine (EBay special) has gone to reading way low. I think the battery needs replacing but just haven't got round to getting another one to try it. Have any fresh batteries you could try?


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## Sprinter (Jan 7, 2018)

It's not unreasonable to spend another 15 or so for another meter and if nothing else, you have a spare.  I had problems with my first one and they can go bad.

Just for grins, this is going to sound silly, but it actually works as a quick and dirty check.  If you apply the pins to your palm (lightly!) it should read around 35%.  It's surprising how consistent it seems to be from person to person.  But If you are having problems like this problem, I'd try another meter in any case.


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## maple1 (Jan 7, 2018)

Sprinter said:


> It's not unreasonable to spend another 15 or so for another meter and if nothing else, you have a spare.  I had problems with my first one and they can go bad.
> 
> Just for grins, this is going to sound silly, but it actually works as a quick and dirty check.  If you apply the pins to your palm (lightly!) it should read around 35%.  It's surprising how consistent it seems to be from person to person.  But If you are having problems like this problem, I'd try another meter in any case.



Well, thanks for that post. I just grabbed my meter. 9v battery reads 8.5 with multi meter. Then I checked it on my hand. Took a few seconds but it went to exactly 35%. Huh. So down to the woodpile. I did some measuring a couple months ago and got readings that seemed off. Like 5-10. Which figured couldn't be right. I resplit a couple pieces of maple and got 14 & 15. Which I do believe. This stuff had been down 2 years before got to it, then had been split and stacked for another 2-3 years. I know it is the driest wood I've ever burned just by the way it's been burning. Lights right up with no sizzle. Other years I was seeing some sizzle with readings between 20 & 25. My faith in my meter has been restored. And there is nothing like truly dry wood.


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## KC Matt (Jan 7, 2018)

Ok, I just tested this meter on my skin and got 18-20% and tested in a cup of water and got 93% so it's reading wrong.  I'm not going to waste another $20 on another POS phony meter.  I'll assume my wood is around 25% moisture and my success rate on moisture meters is 0%.  I will adjust accordingly on both accounts.


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## Ashful (Jan 8, 2018)

gzecc said:


> Red oak takes 3 yrs. I avoid it at most cost.



Opinions vary, on this.  Red oak is what I burn most.  The three years it sits in my piles is no skin off my back, time sitting in a stack costs me nothing but a little yard space.  I’d rather process and load 10 cords of oak than 20 cords of pine, for the same heat.


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## Ashful (Jan 8, 2018)

KC Matt said:


> Thanks for the replies.
> 
> Ok, to answer a few questions: the split I measured had been inside for 24 hours.  When it was hissing, the previous day or so, the wood was frozen- like below zero.  My Tundra has struggled in the brutal cold so I've been switching back and forth to the gas furnace.  That same load is now burning much better after being inside for a couple days.
> 
> The stacks are covered along the top and down about 6" on each side.  It's working much better now but as everybody said, oak needs 3 years.  I'll probably avoid taking much more of it for just that reason.



Even at 3 years, you will still get an occasional hisser, usually the ones with twisted gnarly grain, or big knots.  The straight-grained stuff should be dry, though.

You should be top-covering your piles by end of summer, in the year you plan to burn, if not sooner.  I leave mine uncovered until then.


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## Ashful (Jan 8, 2018)

Sailrmike said:


> What's with the " oak needs three years"? I'm burning white and red oak that has been css for less than two years.  I live in a very damp area, get a little sun on my stacks, and tons of fog. My oak wood burns great at less than two years seasoned. Average size splits, they usually light up before my loading door is shut.  Stove gets up to temp quick, maintains secondaries for 2-3 hours. Glass stays crystal clear too [emoji3] with my damper fully shut. A blanket statement that oak needs three years to season well is simply not true in my experience



I’ll be testing this, the second half of this season.  I’ve been doing the 3-year thing, ever since I started burning oak.  But with a desire to move some of my newer stacks out of the way for another project, I’ll be switching over to 2-year oak in a month, while the remainder of my previously-budgeted 3-year stuff sits until next year.  I’m interested to see if it’s much worse in the stoves, I can tell you it does feel heavier than the 3-year wood, unless my imagination is lying to me.


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## Sprinter (Jan 8, 2018)

Ashful (or anyone):  You may want to ask bholler how he gets his oak done in one year.  Must be doing something right.

I don't have any of the "three year" species, but I do well with allowing more space between splits or whatever I can to improve air flow.  Single rows probably help too if one has the room.  A beezy location, dry, warm climate, etc, all contribute.  Sometimes I stack criss-cross on the theory that it allows better air flow, but I'm not certain about that and it does take extra space.


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## Ashful (Jan 8, 2018)

Sprinter said:


> Ashful (or anyone):  You may want to ask bholler how he gets his oak done in one year.  Must be doing something right.
> 
> I don't have any of the "three year" species, but I do well with allowing more space between splits or whatever I can to improve air flow.  Single rows probably help too if one has the room.  A beezy location, dry, warm climate, etc, all contribute.  Sometimes I stack criss-cross on the theory that it allows better air flow, but I'm not certain about that and it does take extra space.


Lots of factors, here, not the least of which is personal expectation.  I'd never know that three year wood was better, if I was burning it all before its second year.  

The only folks I know getting good dry wood in a year are those with kilns, a'la Poindexter.


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## Sprinter (Jan 8, 2018)

Ashful said:


> The only folks I know getting good dry wood in a year are those with kilns, a'la Poindexter.


Yeah, that's one good way.  Lots of good looking DIY solar kiln plans available.  I actually made a temporary one my first year that I think helped quite a bit.

One other thing I've done that helps is just splitting down smaller than usual.  More surface area exposed and less depth to dry.


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## bholler (Jan 8, 2018)

Ashful said:


> Lots of factors, here, not the least of which is personal expectation.  I'd never know that three year wood was better, if I was burning it all before its second year.
> 
> The only folks I know getting good dry wood in a year are those with kilns, a'la Poindexter.


The moisture meter does not lie.  And no i am not using a cheapy unreliable one.  I am using my $250 one from when i was a cabinet maker.  And yes i calibrate it yearly.  I split small stack single rows and top cover as soon as it is split.  As i have said before yes it does better with 2 years which gets me to 15 or 16 on most peices.  But at my last house i just didnt have the room for 2 years much less 3 years of wood.  I do now and i have 2 triaxle loads one half cut and split already sitting out there to get ahead.  I am by no means saying that being 3 years ahead is a bad thing it just isnt possible for some people given the space they have.  And it can be done in less time.


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## Sprinter (Jan 8, 2018)

bholler said:


> The moisture meter does not lie. And no i am not using a cheapy unreliable one. I am using my $250 one from when i was a cabinet maker.


Sounds like an RF pinless type?  Do those work okay on rough surfaces like firewood?  I've never used one, but I always thought the surface had to be quite flat and smooth as I've seen in some articles.  Just wondering.


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## bholler (Jan 8, 2018)

Sprinter said:


> Sounds like an RF pinless type?  Do those work okay on rough surfaces like firewood?  I've never used one, but I always thought the surface had to be quite flat and smooth as I've seen in some articles.  Just wondering.


No it has pins.  It also adjusts for species and temp.  I dont remember the brand i will check tomorrow.  We carry it in the van to test customers wood and the van is not at my house.


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## Sprinter (Jan 8, 2018)

bholler said:


> No it has pins.  It also adjusts for species and temp.


Oh, okay.  Got confused by the price and former use.  Must be a very nice one.


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## bholler (Jan 8, 2018)

Sprinter said:


> Oh, okay.  Got confused by the price and former use.  Must be a very nice one.


It is atleast 15 years old a similar one now would be much less.


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## bholler (Jan 8, 2018)

And no apparently the rf ones dont work on firewood they dont even work well on rough cut.  I used mine to test shipments as they came in to make sure they were useable.  You can loose allot of money if it is not right.


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## Sprinter (Jan 8, 2018)

bholler said:


> I dont remember the brand i will check tomorrow.


Thanks. That would be nice if you could recommend a premium one.  Some members here are rightly concerned about reliability and accuracy.  I think one that compensated for temps and species would be especially useful.  

I found a cheap one that works really well for me, but I don't use it all that much anymore since I'm on a three year plan now anyway.  Still, they come in handy when your wood is iffy or if you are just sampling a stack., but especially for those just getting started or don't have room for several cords.  They are the most vulnerable to damp wood problems and the ones I'm most concerned about here.


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## bholler (Jan 8, 2018)

Sprinter said:


> Thanks. That would be nice if you could recommend a premium one.  Some members here are rightly concerned about reliability and accuracy.  I think one that compensated for temps and species would be especially useful.
> 
> I found a cheap one that works really well for me, but I don't use it all that much anymore since I'm on a three year plan now anyway.  Still, they come in handy when your wood is iffy or if you are just sampling a stack., but especially for those just getting started or don't have room for several cords.  They are the most vulnerable to damp wood problems and the ones I'm most concerned about here.


I honestly dont use it on my wood anymore i can tell without it by weight sound etc.  And if i put a peoce that is to wet in the stove it is pretty obvious.


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## bholler (Jan 8, 2018)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HEGDXNO/?tag=hearthamazon-20

It is a general here is one that looks comperable.  Mine does have remote probes mounted on a slide hammer so you can sample nice and deep even in hard woods.


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## Sprinter (Jan 8, 2018)

bholler said:


> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HEGDXNO/?tag=hearthamazon-20
> 
> It is a general here is one that looks comperable.  Mine does have remote probes mounted on a slide hammer so you can sample nice and deep even in hard woods.


Thanks.  That one looks very nice.  It may be a hard sell for a lot of folks here though.  Some don't even want to spend 15 or 20 for one.  But I'll mention it when asked for recommendations.  

BTW, my first one failed at the bulkhead because it was just too weak for my exuberance one time.  One specially designed for that kind of deeper penetration would be nice, showing a durable build quality if nothing else.


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## bholler (Jan 8, 2018)

Here is one you can add the slide hammer attachment to like mine

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000224D3/?tag=hearthamazon-20


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## Sprinter (Jan 8, 2018)

bholler said:


> Here is one you can add the slide hammer attachment to like mine
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000224D3/?tag=hearthamazon-20


Thanks, but in light of most member's budgets, I think this would be a good place to stop.  Still there are some really nice ones there if one is interested in the top shelf stuff. Thanks for pointing them out. You can spend your money in much worse places, that's for sure, like a couple of women in my far single past whom I can barely remember now LOL  (Not including my wife of 30+ years, of course...)


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## bholler (Jan 8, 2018)

Sprinter said:


> Thanks, but in light of most member's budgets, I think this would be a good place to stop.  Still there are some really nice ones there if one is interested in the top shelf stuff. Thanks for pointing them out. You can spend your money in much worse places, that's for sure, like a couple of women in my far single past whom I can barely remember now LOL  (Not including my wife of 30+ years, of course...)


Yeah i would never consider buying anything like it for firewood.  But i have it so i will use it


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## Sprinter (Jan 8, 2018)

bholler said:


> Yeah i would never consider buying anything like it for firewood.  But i have it so i will use it


Still, that provision for temperature and species compensation could prevent a lot of questions.  A lot of folks are using it on frozen wood for example, which does throw things off.  I'm sure there are charts that show it that available on line.  I just never looked for one.  Species does matter too but to a lesser extent I think. 

Just for those reading this if there are any left lol, meters are pretty universally calibrated based on Douglas Fir.  Other species will read differently.  Conductivity varies.

Thanks for the input.


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## coutufr (Jan 10, 2018)

I am still there Sprinter  this is good information I will go to sleep less stupid tonight [emoji42]


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## Sprinter (Jan 11, 2018)

coutufr said:


> I am still there Sprinter  this is good information I will go to sleep less stupid tonight [emoji42]


Oh, good , I thought we were going to put some people to sleep there.  May your sleep be a productive but restful one...


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## Chimney Smoke (Jan 11, 2018)

I may have missed it earlier in the post.  Are you saying confirmed 15% wood is still wet?  It's very possible the majority of your wood is at 15% but you have a few oddball wet pieces.  For example, I am burning 4 year old red oak right now.  Most of it is almost so dry I can light the splits directly from a few pieces of crumpled newspaper.  But I've also had a few pieces (likely from the bottom of the pile) that sizzled out a little moisture when first put in the stove.


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## Sprinter (Jan 11, 2018)

Chimney Smoke said:


> I may have missed it earlier in the post.  Are you saying confirmed 15% wood is still wet?  It's very possible the majority of your wood is at 15% but you have a few oddball wet pieces.  For example, I am burning 4 year old red oak right now.  Most of it is almost so dry I can light the splits directly from a few pieces of crumpled newspaper.  But I've also had a few pieces (likely from the bottom of the pile) that sizzled out a little moisture when first put in the stove.


That absolutely happens.  That's one reason I still use my meter, when something doesn't seem as dry as it should. If it isn't, I put it over on next years side.   Experience counts,  technology helps develop experience.  If in doubt, use it next year would be my suggestion.


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## Ashful (Jan 11, 2018)

My wood is all 3+ years CSSd, and while I haven’t bothered putting batteries in the MM and probing it in a few years, I have plenty of evidence showing it’s dry.  However, I still get the odd wet one, almost always a knotty or gnarly piece, as that interlocked grain sometimes just wont let up the moisture.  When it’s a single sizzler in ten otherwise dry splits, it seems to do no harm.


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## Sprinter (Jan 11, 2018)

Ashful said:


> My wood is all 3+ years CSSd, and while I haven’t bothered putting batteries in the MM and probing it in a few years, I have plenty of evidence showing it’s dry.  However, I still get the odd wet one, almost always a knotty or gnarly piece, as that interlocked grain sometimes just wont let up the moisture.  When it’s a single sizzler in ten otherwise dry splits, it seems to do no harm.


Yeah, I've done it that way too.  As long as you have a good, mature hot fire going and with nice hot coals, putting an odd damp piece on the top doesn't seem to hurt anything except shave some efficiency off.  Just don't overdo it or the fire can cool too much.  You do have to watch it if the damp split is at all large.

I had a lot of unintended experience with this my first year when my wood was all over place in MC.  I got through it many times that way, but I had enough decent wood for the basis.


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## Ashful (Jan 11, 2018)

On the rare occasion I get a wet one (maybe only one or three splits per cord, since I normally only drag home straight logs), it usually is a monster split.  It’s big and wet, cuz it was too gnarly to split small.  Still, no issue.  Bake it out ten minutes in bypass, then engage cat, and you’re off to the races.  Never an issue.


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## jscs.moore (Jan 11, 2018)

bholler said:


> I honestly dont use it on my wood anymore i can tell without it by weight sound etc.  And if i put a peoce that is to wet in the stove it is pretty obvious.


I bought a 4 pinned moisture reader a few years back for about $29 bucks on-line. I forget the brand name but it seems like you really have to press the pins in hard to get an accurate reading? For example, if my wife tries sticking the pins into a split it might read 5%...I will take the same split and push the pins in hard as I can and I get a reading of 18 or 19%?? Is this normal and should I have to use all my strength to get all the pins deep enough in to get an accurate reading?


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## bholler (Jan 11, 2018)

jscs.moore said:


> I bought a 4 pinned moisture reader a few years back for about $29 bucks on-line. I forget the brand name but it seems like you really have to press the pins in hard to get an accurate reading? For example, if my wife tries sticking the pins into a split it might read 5%...I will take the same split and push the pins in hard as I can and I get a reading of 18 or 19%?? Is this normal and should I have to use all my strength to get all the pins deep enough in to get an accurate reading?


Are you measuring on a fresh split face?


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## jscs.moore (Jan 11, 2018)

Will usually split some, then bring them in and place near the insert for a day to warm up...then test with the moisture reader.


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## Ashful (Jan 11, 2018)

jscs.moore said:


> Will usually split some, then bring them in and place near the insert for a day to warm up...then test with the moisture reader.



You are seeing this behavior because the outside has dried in that day sitting by the insert.  Continue pushing them way in deep to get a reading, or better yet, split after warming.


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## Sprinter (Jan 11, 2018)

Ashful said:


> You are seeing this behavior because the outside has dried in that day sitting by the insert.  Continue pushing them way in deep to get a reading, or better yet, *split after warming.*


Right.  Best bet is to go ahead and warm the whole darn thing, then split it open and measure the inside of the fresh split.  If you don't, the outside millimeter or so, which is what you are really measuring, will have already dried enough to give you a reading that does not represent the whole split.

There is no reason to push so hard you risk breaking the meter pins or the bulkhead which is exactly what happened to me to my first meter my first year one time before I learned how to handle them.  Not to discourage you from the four-pin type, they work fine, but for others here, four pins is not necessary, and two pins will penetrate a lot easier.

I've been seeing more of this being asked on the forum, and causing avoidable issues and confusion.


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## Sprinter (Jan 11, 2018)

Ashful said:


> On the rare occasion I get a wet one (maybe only one or three splits per cord, since I normally only drag home straight logs), it usually is a monster split.  It’s big and wet, cuz it was too gnarly to split small.  Still, no issue.  Bake it out ten minutes in bypass, then engage cat, and you’re off to the races.  Never an issue.


It's probably worth mentioning that your cat is going to handle things differently than the non-cats..  As I recall, you may have both so maybe you could address that in this context.  Hopefully without starting a whole new cat vs non-cat debate.


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## Ashful (Jan 11, 2018)

Sprinter said:


> It's probably worth mentioning that your cat is going to handle things differently than the non-cats..


Then the solution is easy.  Haul that non-cat to the curb, and replace it with a cat stove!  [emoji12]



Sprinter said:


> As I recall, you may have both so maybe you could address that in this context.  Hopefully without starting a whole new cat vs non-cat debate[emoji33].


You’re thinking of Highbeam.  I’ve owned five EPA stoves in six years, two presently... and they’re all catalytic.  It would be very tough to convince me to ever buy a non-cat.


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## Sprinter (Jan 11, 2018)

Ashful said:


> It would be very tough to convince me to ever buy a non-cat.


Aw heck, Ashful, I wouldn't even try


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## ratsrepus (Jan 13, 2018)

someone mentioned  stacking some wood next to the stove. That really helps dry it out
s


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## Ashful (Jan 13, 2018)

ratsrepus said:


> someone mentioned  stacking some wood next to the stove. That really helps dry it out
> s



Helps to wake up any bugs dormant within, too.  I’ve had moths and stink bugs come out of wood, on occasion, when I’ve tried this.  So, the only splits I ever leave indoors now is nice clean, barkless stuff.


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## ratsrepus (Jan 13, 2018)

I wouldn't worry about it, they wont eat much


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## Sprinter (Jan 13, 2018)

ratsrepus said:


> I wouldn't worry about it, they wont eat much


Especially if you have a few cats around


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## Ashful (Jan 14, 2018)

ratsrepus said:


> I wouldn't worry about it, they wont eat much


I don't worry much about that stuff, but then again, I don't live alone.  Wives can be much less cavalier, when they find their favorite cashmere full of moth holes.


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## Jeffm1 (Jan 14, 2018)

KC Matt said:


> I'm scratching my head right now.
> 
> This wood was split at least 2 years ago and has been covered for the last year.  It's mostly red oak, with some ash and hedge mixed in.  Stacked on pallets, on pavement, on a slope, full exposure with no trees or obstructions within 50 feet.  Stacked in 2 rows with a gap between.
> 
> ...


Obviously you have some wet wood. You mentioned snow....wind probably blew some and drove it up into the inside of your stack, under bark etc, and when you brought it inside it melted and caused your issues. Even 1/4” will cause your issues when melted. Plus it’s oak which most of the time takes 2 or three years depending on your climate.

This is why I bit the bullet and built a woodshed. Dry the wood outside in the sun and wind. When it’s properly seasoned move it into a covered woodshed at the end of summer/beginning of autumn. You’ll never have your problem again . Guaranteed.


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## CheapBassTurd (Jan 14, 2018)

I love red oak, and split it thin-ish. 
Currently on some July of '16 and it's doing great on
our overnite burns.  There's a hiss here and there but nothing
serious enough to overthink in this case.  Mine's just a firebox
with a chimney.


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Jan 14, 2018)

Ashful said:


> I don't worry much about that stuff, but then again, I don't live alone.  Wives can be much less cavalier, when they find their favorite cashmere full of moth holes.


That's why we go 100% polyester here! 

All kidding aside, a moth did find my favorite wool coat last summer. I was bummed.


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## Ashful (Jan 14, 2018)

CheapBassTurd said:


> I love red oak, and split it thin-ish.
> Currently on some July of '16 and it's doing great on
> our overnite burns.  There's a hiss here and there but nothing
> serious enough to overthink in this case.  Mine's just a firebox
> with a chimney.



Wait until you’re on 3 year oak, you’ll love it even more.  I know some folks malign it for a long coaling phase, and possibly more ash than some others, but there’s no other wood around here that puts as many BTUs into each load.  Heating my place, that’s all that matters.


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## lindnova (Jan 15, 2018)

I put a load in the stove yesterday - mostly oak with some cherry.  A 4" cherry split hissed and steamed for a while for no good reason.  It was solid wood, had been mixed in the oak - split over 3 years ago, and was in the shed since September.  It had one day of sitting next to the stove. In the same conditions with bur oak and the oak is burning great.  Can't explain everything I guess.


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## KC Matt (Jan 15, 2018)

Jeffm1 said:


> Obviously you have some wet wood. You mentioned snow....wind probably blew some and drove it up into the inside of your stack, under bark etc, and when you brought it inside it melted and caused your issues. Even 1/4” will cause your issues when melted. Plus it’s oak which most of the time takes 2 or three years depending on your climate.
> 
> This is why I bit the bullet and built a woodshed. Dry the wood outside in the sun and wind. When it’s properly seasoned move it into a covered woodshed at the end of summer/beginning of autumn. You’ll never have your problem again . Guaranteed.



I have a space that's 8x8x8 for just that purpose but I was lazy and didn't move any wood into it this year.


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## Paulywalnut (Jan 16, 2018)

Red oak takes three or four years depending on location.


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## bholler (Jan 16, 2018)

Paulywalnut said:


> Red oak takes three or four years depending on location.


Or one or two depending


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## CheapBassTurd (Jan 18, 2018)

Agreed on the 1-2 yrs if properly exposed.

My only experience thus far with knowledge of the individual tree 
came from a standing 1/2 dead red.
It split into a V ten feet up the trunk and one side was dead.   Processed the thing
in July of 2016 to get the dead stuff dry in 6 months or less.  Burned fine last year.
The live half is in the stove now one and a half years from being green.   It got split
into boards, rather than the traditional wedge shape from 1-3 inches thick.  
The thin-ish pieces dried well in the Midwestern summer sun, year round breezes
and arid winters where everyone either uses Chapstick or bleeds.  lol

I think that good conditions and smaller cuts can speed the process rather well.
Covered loosely one month before burning.  My way of doing it anyhoo.
CheapMark


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## Ashful (Jan 18, 2018)

I have been burning 3-year oak (mix of red, white, chestnut, black, swamp... and yes, I know all of those are just variants of “red” and “white”) for several years, so I have a good baseline expectation.  In an effort to move some wood piles out of my way for a wood shed project, without doing any extra work of moving and restocking, I’ll soon be transitioning to burn several cords of 2-year oak in about two weeks.  This will give me a chance to test these claims about 2 vs. 3 year oak, at least as it dries in the mid-Atlantic region.

My wood is stacked in the open, double rows on pallets, uncovered for 2.5 years (3 summers).  It is covered at the end of our July/August drought period, before the late August/September rain starts back up, in the year it will be burned.

Picking up the splits, I can feel a difference between the 2-year and 3-year CSS’d stuff, so I have to believe there will be a difference in burning it, but we will see.  I’ll be able to weigh in on this, with some first-hand experience, in a few weeks.

In all of the posts I’ve read on this, it seems the folks claiming it’s great at 2-years (or occasionally even 1 year), haven’t burned enough 3-year oak to really have a valid opinion on the differences.  Likewise, those who’ve burned a lot of 3-year oak seem to never go back and try fresher stuff.


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## maple1 (Jan 18, 2018)

Ashful said:


> I have been burning 3-year oak (mix of red, white, chestnut, black, swamp... and yes, I know all of those are just variants of “red” and “white”) for several years, so I have a good baseline expectation.  In an effort to move some wood piles out of my way for a wood shed project, without doing any extra work of moving and restocking, I’ll soon be transitioning to burn several cords of 2-year oak in about two weeks.  This will give me a chance to test these claims about 2 vs. 3 year oak, at least as it dries in the mid-Atlantic region.
> 
> My wood is stacked in the open, double rows on pallets, uncovered for 2.5 years (3 summers).  It is covered at the end of our July/August drought period, before the late August/September rain starts back up, in the year it will be burned.
> 
> ...



I have no doubt you will see a difference. I can see the difference in 2 & 3 year hard maple. This is the first winter that I have gotten myself to the point of burning 3 year stuff, no question on the difference. Two year stuff might burn 'OK' or even 'good', but the extra year really takes it to 'great'.


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## lindnova (Jan 18, 2018)

I have some "5 year" oak that was tarp covered for most of that time.  I split large (8-10") so I can use in the outdoor furnace.  I split some up for the woodstove and burned it the same day.  To my surprise it burned better than the stuff that was split smaller.  Most of the "better" is due to the clean, fresh split loot and feel to the wood. 

This is my plan after I use up any small split pieces in the next year.  Cut and split big and then split small as needed for wood stove or fire pit.  No more separating and mixing needed.


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## bholler (Jan 18, 2018)

Ashful said:


> I have been burning 3-year oak (mix of red, white, chestnut, black, swamp... and yes, I know all of those are just variants of “red” and “white”) for several years, so I have a good baseline expectation.  In an effort to move some wood piles out of my way for a wood shed project, without doing any extra work of moving and restocking, I’ll soon be transitioning to burn several cords of 2-year oak in about two weeks.  This will give me a chance to test these claims about 2 vs. 3 year oak, at least as it dries in the mid-Atlantic region.
> 
> My wood is stacked in the open, double rows on pallets, uncovered for 2.5 years (3 summers).  It is covered at the end of our July/August drought period, before the late August/September rain starts back up, in the year it will be burned.
> 
> ...


Cover it right away and stack single deep and it will dry allot faster.


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## maple1 (Jan 18, 2018)

Only cover the top though.


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## bholler (Jan 18, 2018)

maple1 said:


> Only cover the top though.


Yes absolutly


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## Ashful (Jan 18, 2018)

bholler said:


> Cover it right away and stack single deep and it will dry allot faster.


True, but that would be more work.  I'm drinking beer while it's busy drying.  If it takes another year... more beer!


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