# Does a "Cut-Off" Saw or "Chop" Saw Exist for Wood?



## DanCorcoran (Apr 4, 2011)

I have a lot smaller wood (2"-4" diameter) that I'd like to cut to 18" lengths for smaller fires and to fill in between larger splits.  I don't have any way to hold it to use my chain saw and don't like risking the chain going into the dirt.  I'd like to buy a cheap miter saw or chop saw that I could use standing up, to cut this wood to uniform lengths.

Has anyone solved this problem?  I tried to find a wood blade for a chop saw, but didn't find anything.


----------



## smokinj (Apr 4, 2011)

Chop saw with a cross cut blade works fine.


----------



## Thistle (Apr 4, 2011)

Band saw works great. Much less risk of kickback or grabbing than circular blade on miter saw or skilsaw. Mine gets used for everything from crosscutting small blocks or rounds to short lengths for the smoker to resawing boards,timbers,blocks & beams up to 12 1/2" thick. Plus the table on most is 3ft or more from the floor,less bending over means easier on the back.


----------



## DanCorcoran (Apr 4, 2011)

Thistle said:
			
		

> Band saw works great. Much less risk of kickback or grabbing than circular blade on miter saw or skilsaw. Mine gets used for everything from crosscutting small blocks or rounds to short lengths for the smoker to resawing boards,timbers,blocks & beams up to 12 1/2" thick. Plus the table on most is 3ft or more from the floor,less bending over means easier on the back.



Yes, but my band saw is in Richmond and my woodstove is at my cabin 3 hours away.  That's why I'm trying to find a cheap alternative, but thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## DanCorcoran (Apr 4, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> Chop saw with a cross cut blade works fine.



What size chop saw do you use?  The one I saw had a 14" blade and I didn't see any cross cut blades that size.


----------



## Thistle (Apr 4, 2011)

DanCorcoran said:
			
		

> smokinjay said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Get a 12" one then.Just make sure it has a 1" arbor hole that matches the shaft of 12" miter saws & 14" metal cutting chop saws.

Many call Miter Saws for wood  Chop Saws also,when originally that term was for the metal cutting one that uses abrasive blades.


----------



## DonNC (Apr 4, 2011)

I used a miter. Worked great. Got it at a pawn shop for 89

http://www.google.com/images?rlz=1C...&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi&biw=1280&bih=681


----------



## smokinj (Apr 4, 2011)

DanCorcoran said:
			
		

> smokinjay said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thats what should be on it......


----------



## bogydave (Apr 4, 2011)

DanCorcoran said:
			
		

> smokinjay said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I believe all chop saw blades are cross cut. They are not a saw used for ripping. There are some fine blades for special materials 
but most are work horse construction saws, cross cutting ( some mitering) 2 X4s to 2 X12s. & sometimes 4X6 - 8 headers.


----------



## TreePointer (Apr 4, 2011)

Not my photos and I'm still trying to find the original discussion to give the guy credit, but here's a solution for using a chainsaw for making shorter logs for the stove.  Maybe you can modify this for your needs:


----------



## TreePointer (Apr 4, 2011)

If you have a PTO or some other powered shaft available, how about a cordwood saw (buzz saw)?  I little dangerous for my tastes, but they're made for cutting those branches.

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=cordwood+saw


----------



## smokinj (Apr 4, 2011)

TreePointer said:
			
		

> Not my photos and I'm still trying to find the original discussion to give the guy credit, but here's a solution for using a chainsaw for making shorter logs for the stove.  Maybe you can modify this for your needs:



That will get it done in a hurry!


----------



## WES999 (Apr 4, 2011)

I have a chainsaw buddy 

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=CB41&catID;=

I have it mounted on a cheap electric chainsaw, works well for cutting small branches, keeps the chain  out of the dirt.


----------



## Flatbedford (Apr 4, 2011)

I use this.


----------



## Danno77 (Apr 4, 2011)

based mine (loosely) off of Zaps design. I'm sure he'll be by to post a pic of his.

I had some scraps lying around and just threw them together (without measuring, and it shows)


----------



## golfandwoodnut (Apr 5, 2011)

Here is the way to go, I have been asked about this several times.  Make an H style sawbuck and you will not believe how many branches you can do in short order.  If you space the Hs so your ideal split length is in the middle you are set.


----------



## TreePointer (Apr 5, 2011)

Looks like a good one, _GolfandWoodNut_.


----------



## blel (Apr 5, 2011)

Do you have a hydraulic or electric splitter? If so, put the log in perpendicular to the wedge, bring the wedge up to hold the log and chop away. Works great.


----------



## DanCorcoran (Apr 5, 2011)

blel said:
			
		

> Do you have a hydraulic or electric splitter? If so, put the log in perpendicular to the wedge, bring the wedge up to hold the log and chop away. Works great.



Fiskars...


----------



## blel (Apr 5, 2011)

Sorry, doesn't work too well with a Fiskars. It's tough to balance the log on the edge of the axe while cutting with a chainsaw.


----------



## lukem (Apr 5, 2011)

I use my DeWalt 12" miter saw for cutting down my wood for grilling/smoking.  It handles up to 4" pretty good.  I just have the blade on it that came with it.


----------



## Mt Ski Bum (Apr 5, 2011)

I use my hand saw for small wood like that


----------



## CTYank (Apr 5, 2011)

Since my stove accepts small splits (.75 cu ft firebox), it's no problem to do much of the buzzing with a cheapie HF portable tablesaw, clamped down to a folding workbench. Very quick, and very little wood ends up as chips/dust.


----------



## DanCorcoran (Apr 6, 2011)

Just saw a 10" Skil miter saw at Lowe's.  Reduced from $109 to $89.  I think that'll work for me...10" blades aren't too expensive.  I haven't seen a 12" or 14" chop saw for that price, plus the large blades are much more expensive.  If anyone has seen a better deal, please let me know before I go with the Skil.


----------



## Danno77 (Apr 6, 2011)

generic brand 10" miter was like 28 bucks at my Farm and Home last father's day. If that's what you are gonna use, at least get a couple and have some help, cause that seems like the slow way to do it.


----------



## MrWhoopee (Oct 4, 2011)

Probably too late to help Dan, but let me describe what I did. Using a $50 electric 14 in. chainsaw, I built a Tee from 2x4s, the upright being about 12 in. tall, the crossbar (top) of the tee being about 30 in. Put on a 1x2 diagonal brace to stiffen the whole thing. Drilled (actually just enlarged existing hole) 1/4 in. hole thru the bar of the saw just behind the nose roller. Drilled a similar 1/4 hole thru the side of the upright of the tee about 4 inches from the intersection with the crossbar. Turned the whole thing upside down (crossbar is now a foot) and screwed it to a plywood table with the upright beyond the right end of the table and set back from the edge about 6 in. Put a 1/4 in. bolt thru the hole in the upright and thru the hole in the bar of the chainsaw (with a washer between to prevent contact). Viola! Chain-chopsaw! I tied a cord from the top of the upright to the handle of the chainsaw to limit downward travel (which would cut into the foot) and set a hard stop at my desired length. Feed the wood out to the stop with the left hand, work the saw with the right, park the wheelbarrow underneath to catch the drops. Placed a 2x4 along the edge of the table for a backstop (the saw wants to pull the limb towards you). Working on a left hand lever clamp to keep the wood from spinning. Will post pictures when I get home and can get to it.

Craig


----------



## gpcollen1 (Oct 4, 2011)

This is pretty much what i did but with 2 pallets.  Just rip some of the end boards off each one and mesh them together - add a few screws and you are in business for the cost of a few screws.



			
				Flatbedford said:
			
		

> I use this.


----------



## maple1 (Oct 4, 2011)

I'd do the stand & chainsaw thing. Stack & cut. Has to be better than cutting up a bunch of 2 inch stuff one piece at a time - but everyone is free to do what they want with their time.


----------



## KodiakII (Oct 4, 2011)

We tend to use these things around my neck of the woods for cutting up limb wood and medium sized bucked logs.


----------



## rottiman (Oct 4, 2011)

This is my chop saw for 10" diameter and under


----------



## Thistle (Oct 4, 2011)

rottiman said:
			
		

> This is my chop saw for 10" diameter and under



That is great.Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Joey (Oct 5, 2011)

Thats fantastic Rotti,,,is that your own invention?????


----------



## maple1 (Oct 5, 2011)

You young fellers and your contraptions...


----------



## begreen (Oct 5, 2011)

I saw them working this system while in Bulgaria. A few old fellows working with an open blade. No OSHA here.


----------



## rottiman (Oct 5, 2011)

Joey said:
			
		

> Thats fantastic Rotti,,,is that your own invention?????



Yes, it is.  I am a welder/fabricator by trade.  Wanted something to be able to cut uniform 16" pieces quickly.  Allows one- handed operation of saw and allows you to cut as quick as heck.  When you put a second person feeding the table you can really wail.  Probably cut in excess of 100 cord on it.  nice part about it is that the piece being cut DOES NOT kick up making it really safe to cut small branches.


----------

