# Best way to buck large logs?



## dave11 (Dec 9, 2009)

I've got some logs of black locust that range from 24-28 inches across and four to eight feet in length. Some of them I can roll, some I can't.

I've got a 20 inch bar on my saw, and I haven't had any trouble bucking the logs I could roll. My question is how best to buck the ones too big to roll.

I've seen some tree guys do it, and I've noticed they do it very carefully, I assume to make sure the kerf isn't closing, or that the bar tip isn't starting to bore into the wood. 

The Canadian Forestry Guide shows their method, using four cuts, though I can't really follow how their third cut is made without risking a major kickback.

Just wondering how folks here would approach it. Thanks.


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## smokinj (Dec 9, 2009)

If I cant roll it i will wedge the top kerf and cut from both sides just be careful at the bottom not to hit the dirt.


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## Hurricane (Dec 9, 2009)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> If I cant roll it i will wedge the top kerf and cut from both sides just be careful at the bottom not to hit the dirt.


+1


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## dave11 (Dec 9, 2009)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> If I cant roll it i will wedge the top kerf and cut from both sides just be careful at the bottom not to hit the dirt.



But are you just making horizontal cuts, from each side? Seems to me you would have to bury the bar tip on at least the first cut, all the way down. Doesn't that also risk a kickback?


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## smokinj (Dec 9, 2009)

dave11 said:
			
		

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cut over the top to a 45-90 degrees and  down as far as you can go then switch sides you can keep the tip clear just keep an eye on it and let it tell you what degree you can get by with.

kinda like that


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## smokinj (Dec 9, 2009)

thats your starting point piviot from there to a 90 degrees if you can get by with it then stright down with wedge in top kerf then finish the last 1/3 from the other side


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## dave11 (Dec 9, 2009)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> thats your starting point piviot from there to a 90 degrees if you can get by with it then stright down with wedge in top kerf then finish the last 1/3 from the other side



I think that's how the last tree guy did it here. Are you keeping the nose of the bar free though, or are you letting it bore farther into the log?


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## smokinj (Dec 9, 2009)

dave11 said:
			
		

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if its clearing chips good out the back with out bogging your good to go, your saw will let you know. I can normally get atleast 60-70 degree and 90 most of the time.


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## savageactor7 (Dec 9, 2009)

When you need leverage cue up the music for Mr spud bar.


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## smokinj (Dec 9, 2009)

savageactor7 said:
			
		

> When you need leverage cue up the music for Mr spud bar.



I have a timber jack but its not going to help with a big trunk best to just keep making it small enough to handle.


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## dave11 (Dec 9, 2009)

savageactor7 said:
			
		

> When you need leverage cue up the music for Mr spud bar.



I agree. I have a six foot iron bar I was already using to pry apart the logs I could still roll. Most of the logs are big enough that my cant hook barely can grip them, or won't grip them.


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## DiscoInferno (Dec 9, 2009)

A trick I've seen (but never tried myself) is to dig out or use a hose to wash out a tunnel of sorts under the cut, to avoid grounding the saw.  What I have done is hunt around for gaps under the log where I can cut somewhat more safely.  Because one way or another you've got to cut through the bottom of the log.  Do it once in the middle and then you can roll the halves.


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## dave11 (Dec 9, 2009)

DiscoInferno said:
			
		

> A trick I've seen (but never tried myself) is to dig out or use a hose to wash out a tunnel of sorts under the cut, to avoid grounding the saw.  What I have done is hunt around for gaps under the log where I can cut somewhat more safely.  Because one way or another you've got to cut through the bottom of the log.  Do it once in the middle and then you can roll the halves.



That's a good idea. i'll give that a try too.


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## Bigg_Redd (Dec 10, 2009)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> If I cant roll it i will wedge the top kerf and cut from both sides just be careful at the bottom not to hit the dirt.



+1

Dig out a spot under it, preferably 1/2 down the log, and cut it.  Hopefully you'll be able to roll the halves.

You do have a peavy, right?


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## countrybois (Dec 10, 2009)

dave11 said:
			
		

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Dave, you can have the tip of the bar buried in wood without kick-back. The trick is to only to apply pressure to the bottom half of the tip. You run into trouble(kick-back) when you get the very tip or top part of the tip into uncut wood. You can actually plunge cut with the saw once you get this concept down, which is another way to do it. Plunge your saw into the log leaving an inch or so of uncut log at the top, this will prevent the log from pinching your bar. Act just like a wedge. Just be careful.


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## dave11 (Dec 10, 2009)

countrybois said:
			
		

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Years ago I saw a guy get hit in the face with a kickback, and it has always stuck in my mind. He was doing some sort of plunge cut on a large log, and was supposedly a pretty experienced user. I guess since then I've been skittish to let the bar tip go anywhere I can't see it. But to guys who do it regularly, I'm sure it's no different than any other cut.


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## Backwoods Savage (Dec 10, 2009)

Another case where you need a cant hook. Then you can roll the logs.


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## d.n.f. (Dec 10, 2009)

Where can you find a peavy/cant hook or whatever they are called?

I have never seen a 'new' one.


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## Backwoods Savage (Dec 10, 2009)

Most hardware stores either have them or can order one. You can do a search for cant hook also. You want a cant hook rather than a peavey.  One with a 3' or 4' handle should do everything you need done. Mine is a 4' handle.


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## ChrisNJ (Dec 10, 2009)

.[/quote]

Years ago I saw a guy get hit in the face with a kickback, and it has always stuck in my mind. He was doing some sort of plunge cut on a large log, and was supposedly a pretty experienced user. I guess since then I've been skittish to let the bar tip go anywhere I can't see it. But to guys who do it regularly, I'm sure it's no different than any other cut.[/quote]

ok not to hijack or anything but I am on the verge of buying and using a chainsaw for the first time and on every page of the stihl sites it warns about kickback, is that what would cause it ? the tip of the saw?


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## smokinj (Dec 10, 2009)

ChrisNJ said:
			
		

> .



Years ago I saw a guy get hit in the face with a kickback, and it has always stuck in my mind. He was doing some sort of plunge cut on a large log, and was supposedly a pretty experienced user. I guess since then I've been skittish to let the bar tip go anywhere I can't see it. But to guys who do it regularly, I'm sure it's no different than any other cut.[/quote]

ok not to hijack or anything but I am on the verge of buying and using a chainsaw for the first time and on every page of the stihl sites it warns about kickback, is that what would cause it ? the tip of the saw?[/quote]

yes


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## d.n.f. (Dec 10, 2009)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> Most hardware stores either have them or can order one. You can do a search for cant hook also. You want a cant hook rather than a peavey.  One with a 3' or 4' handle should do everything you need done. Mine is a 4' handle.



Seriously, I have never seen one new.

I must pursue this as I need one badly.

cheers


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## CrawfordCentury (Dec 10, 2009)

Another plug for the peavey. Incredible how an otherwise immovable object becomes manageable when you put a 4' handle on it. 

I'd sooner go into the woods sans peavey than into a gentlemans club with only a wad of Benjamins.

I'll saw through 2/3rds the way down the length of a log, then roll it 180° and attack from the other side.


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## lobsta1 (Dec 11, 2009)

I've got a peavey & I think it is useless. I can't get a bite with it on the big stuff & I don't need it for the small stuff. As far as cutting big logs, WEDGES are your friend. I am cutting up 4' diameter oak right now with a 6401 with a 20" bar. I have to cut it into chunks.  I start at say at 10 on the clock & go over the top with the entire bar buried & then down to bottom bark on one side. Then down to the bottom on the other side. Then I rip down the face in thirds as close to the bottom as I can get. Then drive some wedges down & split the chunk off the bark. Then crosscut horizontally across the face at the depth I was able to hit coming down from the top. Leave the bottom center until I get the next section cut with the outer two third sections cut off. I can now come back for the bottom center section. Only thing is even though I am only cutting 14" cookies, I still have to rip them down to smaller chunks. They are just way to heavy to move otherwise. Oh yeah, I also can't use my pulp hooks for the chunks. They just bounce off!
Al


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## They Call Me Pete (Dec 11, 2009)

lobsta1 that's cause your not doing it right. Hold the hook all the way up against the handle and jam it on the log at 90 degrees. I'm in the tree biz and that's one hell of a useful tool.

chrisNJ  I find personally kickback happens when I'm limbing a tree up and I hit another branch. The tip hits it and bounces up. Just take your time and go slow. Most of the time it's not the "new" chainsaw users that get hurt but the guys who have been using the for a long time and get lazy/careless.

The best way to buck large logs is with a BIG saw and a 3ft bar. Just kidding. Cut down both sides of log (at 90 degrees) and drive a wedge in top of log to keep bar from getting pinched. It can be done without getting chain in the dirt. Don't worry about burying the tip of the saw in the log. I do it all the time. Good luck and stay safe


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## Bigg_Redd (Dec 11, 2009)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> Most hardware stores either have them or can order one. You can do a search for cant hook also. You want a cant hook rather than a peavey.  One with a 3' or 4' handle should do everything you need done. Mine is a 4' handle.




I disagree.   Everyone who cuts their own firewood should have a peavy.  

The handle on my peavy isn't much longer than 4'.

We are talking about the same thing, right?


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## Bigg_Redd (Dec 11, 2009)

d.n.f. said:
			
		

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I can't imagine every saw shop in BC_ not_ having one


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## Bigg_Redd (Dec 11, 2009)

lobsta1 said:
			
		

> *I've got a peavey & I think it is useless. I can't get a bite with it on the big stuff & I don't need it for the small stuff.* As far as cutting big logs, WEDGES are your friend. I am cutting up 4' diameter oak right now with a 6401 with a 20" bar. I have to cut it into chunks.  I start at say at 10 on the clock & go over the top with the entire bar buried & then down to bottom bark on one side. Then down to the bottom on the other side. Then I rip down the face in thirds as close to the bottom as I can get. Then drive some wedges down & split the chunk off the bark. Then crosscut horizontally across the face at the depth I was able to hit coming down from the top. Leave the bottom center until I get the next section cut with the outer two third sections cut off. I can now come back for the bottom center section. Only thing is even though I am only cutting 14" cookies, I still have to rip them down to smaller chunks. They are just way to heavy to move otherwise. Oh yeah, I also can't use my pulp hooks for the chunks. They just bounce off!
> Al



Kinda odd

There are two possibilities here

1) You have a piece-of-sh_t peavy

2) Operator error


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## Backwoods Savage (Dec 11, 2009)

Perhaps I should have worded that different. My fault. Around here it is easy to get one.

However, I still say you should use a cant hook rather than a peavey. Perhaps some think they are the same thing and they are not. They are similar but not the same. 

Once you start using a cant hook, you will probably wonder how you ever got along without one! Unless, of course, everything you cut is really small stuff. Then you need a sawbuck.


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## Bigg_Redd (Dec 11, 2009)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> Perhaps I should have worded that different. My fault. Around here it is easy to get one.
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> However, I still say you should use a cant hook rather than a peavey. Perhaps some think they are the same thing and they are not. They are similar but not the same.
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> Once you start using a cant hook, you will probably wonder how you ever got along without one! Unless, of course, everything you cut is really small stuff. Then you need a sawbuck.



Is a cant hook a peavy-like device with a cleat on it that lifts the end of a log off the ground?  If so we call them log-jacks.  They're handy if you're cutting with a partner and the logs aren't too big - the ones I've seen/used are not stout enough to roll the big fir.


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## Backwoods Savage (Dec 11, 2009)

No, not the same thing at all. Check out the link and scroll down just a bit for a picture which shows them side by side.


Cant hook vs Peavey


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## billb3 (Dec 11, 2009)

If I was cutting large log lengths in the yard , I'd build up the ground with a little crown.
Dirt, shavings, mulch whatever.
A few  wedges to help hold things on the crown.

In the woods I use branches and roll onto them.
A cant hook or even just a branch as a lever works.
I've even levered fence posts/rails on bigger stuff. (including to get a stuck bar out)

The bigger stuff does test your engineering skills a little bit.


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## smokinj (Dec 11, 2009)

Best way to buck large logs? guess what a peavy cant hook or timber jack is not going to work on large trunk. I wouldn't worry about the chain hitting the ground just do your best and keep cutting til it is manageable.Peavy's are great tools but the saw is the weapon of choice on a big trunk.


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## Bigg_Redd (Dec 12, 2009)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> No, not the same thing at all. Check out the link and scroll down just a bit for a picture which shows them side by side.
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> Cant hook vs Peavey




Looks like a peavy to meavy


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## Nonprophet (Dec 12, 2009)

I strongly recommend the Logrite peaveys and cant hooks.  I paid about $125 for my 4' cant hook with the timber jack attachment--I absolutely love it!  It's not cheap, but I could probably use it lift the rear end of my Tacoma out of a mud hole if I had to......it will definitely outlast me!!

NP


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## Spikem (Dec 13, 2009)

Nonprophet said:
			
		

> I strongly recommend the Logrite peaveys and cant hooks.  I paid about $125 for my 4' cant hook with the timber jack attachment--I absolutely love it!  It's not cheap, but I could probably use it lift the rear end of my Tacoma out of a mud hole if I had to......it will definitely outlast me!!
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> NP



I'll agree with this.  I bought a Logrite peavey with a timber jack attachment and love it also.  Yes, not cheap.  So?  Neither was my saw.


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## Bigg_Redd (Dec 13, 2009)

Spikem said:
			
		

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Looked at the LogRite site.  Didn't find a peavey with a log jack on it.


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## savageactor7 (Dec 13, 2009)

Big Redd you might be thinking of a 'tree jack' here's what spikem is talking about ....
http://cgi.ebay.com/LOG-WOOD-TIMBER...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item35a596832f


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## Bigg_Redd (Dec 13, 2009)

savageactor7 said:
			
		

> Big Redd you might be thinking of a 'tree jack' here's what spikem is talking about ....
> http://cgi.ebay.com/LOG-WOOD-TIMBER...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item35a596832f




That is what I'm thinking of.  What is a "timber jack"?


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