# Chimney Pipe Flashing/Boot for Metal Roofs



## task (Nov 25, 2019)

Cannot find the right temp rated boot for a wood stove chimney pipe system penetrating a metal roof.   Chimney pipe is Metal Fab - 6TG48, double wall insulated comes out to 9" outside diameter.

When I look at any hi temp boots they all say something about *gas* fireplaces and stoves, nothing about wood, or all-fuel stoves.

This is a problem because I was thinking that venting gas fireplaces and stoves is not as hot and the parts are not spec'd the same.  So I'm suspicious of a silicone boot that's made for gas fireplaces and stoves.  

But I'm not find anything specifically rated for wood burning or all fuel...are there any experts here that can weigh in?


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## bholler (Nov 25, 2019)

task said:


> Cannot find the right temp rated boot for a wood stove chimney pipe system penetrating a metal roof.   Chimney pipe is Metal Fab - 6TG48, double wall insulated comes out to 9" outside diameter.
> 
> When I look at any hi temp boots they all say something about *gas* fireplaces and stoves, nothing about wood, or all-fuel stoves.
> 
> ...


Use metal flashing and cut it in.  I don't trust the rubber boots long term


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## webby3650 (Nov 25, 2019)

We don’t use rubber boots either. We do however remove them because they are leaking and install this flashing . It works really well.





						Replacement stove parts | Woodman's Parts Plus | Stove Gas Wood Stove Parts
					

Woodman's Parts Plus offers over 20,000 in stock parts for your wood, coal, gas, oil or pellet unit, as well as barbecues and outdoor power equipment. Over 400 old and current manufacturers, with unique parts and patterns.




					www.woodmanspartsplus.com


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## task (Nov 25, 2019)

webby3650 said:


> We don’t use rubber boots either. We do however remove them because they are leaking and install this flashing . It works really well.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I would love to use something like this.  I'm not seeing how this works though.  They don't show what's going on under the hood there, so to speak.   

My metal roof ribs are spaced right at 9" apart, and my chimney will require a 13" hole to provide 2" clearance around it, so I'm going to have to seal over at least 1 metal rib, probably 2.


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## begreen (Nov 25, 2019)




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## bholler (Nov 25, 2019)

Ventis makes one like that as well.  And it works well but I usually just use regular roof flashing and it works just as well.


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## task (Nov 25, 2019)

Thanks for the pictures begreen.  

That looks interesting at the bottom of the flashing, but I'm not entirely sure what's going on at the top there.  The one pic that gives a hint is troublesome.  Surely I'm missing something - were those ribs cut and just left open?  

I really like this flashing though, the specifications are great and would keep me from needing to use a piece of fire stop to brace the chimney pipe for the rubber boot.


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## task (Nov 25, 2019)

bholler said:


> Ventis makes one like that as well.  And it works well but I usually just use regular roof flashing and it works just as well.



How are you cutting that in?  I can't seem to find any videos of anyone doing, and a co-worker recently went through a nightmare of leaks trying to cut his in.  

I'll keep looking though....


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## bholler (Nov 25, 2019)

task said:


> How are you cutting that in?  I can't seem to find any videos of anyone doing, and a co-worker recently went through a nightmare of leaks trying to cut his in.
> 
> I'll keep looking though....


Just cut the circle the size of the flashing cone.  Then half way down cut out on both sides untill you are just slightly narrower than the flashing.  Then slide it up in.  I use foam fillers made for metal roofing on the bottom to close off the gap.  If done right you only need 2 tiny dabs of sealant


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## JRHAWK9 (Nov 25, 2019)

From when we had an Excel/ICC chimney installed.......


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## task (Nov 26, 2019)

bholler said:


> Just cut the circle the size of the flashing cone.  Then half way down cut out on both sides untill you are just slightly narrower than the flashing.  Then slide it up in.  I use foam fillers made for metal roofing on the bottom to close off the gap.  If done right you only need 2 tiny dabs of sealant



Yeah this is precisely what caused a leaking nightmare for a co-worker of mine.  Every year he had to climb up to the top of his building and lather sealant all over it.  It didn't stop leaking until he took another sheet of metal roofing, cut a U-shaped hole out of it to slip over those two side slits that cause all the leaking.  It's a bit of work and I'm not seeing the upside.  

I appreciate the help, but when I google and search for flashing pipe on metal roofs it is one rubber boot after another...page after page after page...no one is using metal pipe flashing on metal roofs except for a select few on forums here and there, and there's not enough evidence it's a good idea.   

I'm moving forward with this irritating red rubber boot.


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## webby3650 (Nov 26, 2019)

task said:


> there's not enough evidence it's a good idea.


Ok... you asked the pros, we verified that the rubber boot is junk and would never use one. 
The excel flashing comes with very detailed instructions.


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## task (Nov 26, 2019)

But if I can't find a roofer to do it, without leaking.....     Then there's the pros here in town that all want to use the hi temp rubber boot.

I cannot verify what you all are saying about excel flashing, or any other metal flashing, for metal roofs.  I've got about 5 people looking at me funny over this and I've got nothing to show them to prove anything, or demonstrate how this is better.  All they see is needless complication when a boot is standard.  All I can do at this point is shrug...


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## bholler (Nov 26, 2019)

task said:


> But if I can't find a roofer to do it, without leaking.....     Then there's the pros here in town that all want to use the hi temp rubber boot.
> 
> I cannot verify what you all are saying about excel flashing, or any other metal flashing, for metal roofs.  I've got about 5 people looking at me funny over this and I've got nothing to show them to prove anything, or demonstrate how this is better.  All they see is needless complication when a boot is standard.  All I can do at this point is shrug...


A boot is not standard at all which is why you are having trouble finding the right one.  They are a short term fix that relies entirely upon sealant instead of two tiny spots of sealant.  And I don't know of any chimney system that has one as part of their ul listed system.


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## task (Nov 26, 2019)

bholler said:


> A boot is not standard at all which is why you are having trouble finding the right one.  They are a short term fix that relies entirely upon sealant instead of two tiny spots of sealant.  And I don't know of any chimney system that has one as part of their ul listed system.



I can't find one single article or video explaining cutting in a metal pipe flashing on a metal roof.  Not one.  

But I can scroll through pages and pages of videos using a rubber boot.   Thick bead of goop, tons of screws, more goop all over everything.  Video after video.  I can scroll through pages and pages of videos using metal flashing on a shingled roof, video after video.  But I can't find one thing on metal flashing on a metal roof.   Maybe a homesteader video here or there.  

I'm not saying I like it, I'm saying I don't have anything to work with here to convince a single person we should use metal flashing here.  I can't point to anything at all, save for a couple of pictures that never show the seal all the way around.  I'm in another forum asking roofers about pipe flashings on metal roofs to see what they say.  

I try to research this stuff out, but I'm finding that chimney science is not very prolific.


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## Mnpellet (Nov 26, 2019)




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## Mnpellet (Nov 26, 2019)

Not sure if those pictures were help or not as it seems your mind is already made up. I took these at my dealer before I installed mine it went very easily  you can also look up on Excels website the directions on how to do it


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## task (Nov 26, 2019)

Mnpellet said:


> Not sure if those pictures were help or not as it seems your mind is already made up. I took these at my dealer before I installed mine it went very easily  you can also look up on Excels website the directions on how to do it



Those pictures are a help.  It looks like I'm just cutting the flashing box metal to match the profile of the metal roof corrugation or ribs and then caulk that at the base.   I can't tell what is or is not being cut in at the top though.  That's where the most rain and water action is going to be.  

No leaks, huh?  It looks like you're relying on goop just like a boot does.  Not a criticism, just an observation.


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## bholler (Nov 26, 2019)

task said:


> Those pictures are a help.  It looks like I'm just cutting the flashing box metal to match the profile of the metal roof corrugation or ribs and then caulk that at the base.   I can't tell what is or is not being cut in at the top though.  That's where the most rain and water action is going to be.
> 
> No leaks, huh?  It looks like you're relying on goop just like a boot does.  Not a criticism, just an observation.


No the bottom does not need any sealant at all.  Yes the top gets cut in.  The only place sealant is  needed is the sides of the cut.  Which of cut right is just a tiny dab.  You may not fond a YouTube video telling you how to do it right.  But you won't find a single set of manufacturers instructions telling you how to use a rubber boot with their chimney.


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## bholler (Nov 26, 2019)

I can tell you I have never replaced metal flashing unless I was also replacing the chimney.  I have replaced many many failed rubber boots with metal though


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## wagne223 (Nov 26, 2019)

Just to backup what bholler said.....

This is a screen shot of the instructions from Excel. 
Hopefully you can zoom in on the image and see it.

I just went to their website and opened the instructions. 

There is a box on their homepage that says "Installation instructions "





						EXCEL – ICC-RSF
					






					icc-chimney.com
				








Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## Grizzerbear (Nov 26, 2019)

If i were home i would post pictures here but mine is just like begreen and others posted. I just used "through the roof" to seal all around mine because its clear and its the best sealant i know of. It holds up really well. If you are worried about the mound of goop look you can buy solar seal to match color of your roof. It works good too. And yea those rubber boots suck. Sun dries them out eventually. I have one on my plumbing vent and it leaked from day one. What did i do.....through the roofed the whole damn thing lol. No leak anymore.


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## Grizzerbear (Nov 26, 2019)

O and i havent had any problems with the flashing as far as leaking. Lots of metal roofs in this area with folks that i know with this setup. If they were prone to leaking i would hear about it and i wouldnt think it would be such a standard here.


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## begreen (Nov 26, 2019)

task said:


> Yeah this is precisely what caused a leaking nightmare for a co-worker of mine.  Every year he had to climb up to the top of his building and lather sealant all over it.  It didn't stop leaking until he took another sheet of metal roofing, cut a U-shaped hole out of it to slip over those two side slits that cause all the leaking.  It's a bit of work and I'm not seeing the upside.
> 
> I appreciate the help, but when I google and search for flashing pipe on metal roofs it is one rubber boot after another...page after page after page...no one is using metal pipe flashing on metal roofs except for a select few on forums here and there, and there's not enough evidence it's a good idea.
> 
> I'm moving forward with this irritating red rubber boot.


I'm afraid you will end up regretting that. They don't have a good history. And instead of just a few screw holes for attachment,  there will be a whole circle of them. We have seen many metal roof installs with the Excel flashing here. Done correctly, it will not leak and will stay leak-free over its lifetime. Done right, there will be little caulking or sealant involved. 

Excel installation guide - go to page 31 for metal roof flashing


			http://icc-chimney.com/c/icc/file_db/docs_document.file_en/XLUSA-II_2012-01.pdf
		


Some prior discussion:





						Metal Chimney Pipe Flashing for Ribbed Metal Roof
					

Hi Forum Folke!  I'm installing a woodstove in my new room addition, which has a cathedral ceiling.  The stove has a 6" flue, so I'll obviously be using 6" piping.  I'm looking at the DuraVent line of products.  Something I find confusing is the chimney pipe flashing.  It's a typical "flat metal...




					www.hearth.com
				




Some metal roof tips including an illustration of using a rubber boot, the most common source of leaks according to the video.


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## task (Nov 26, 2019)

begreen said:


> I'm afraid you will end up regretting that. They don't have a good history. And instead of just a few screw holes for attachment,  there will be a whole circle of them. We have seen many metal roof installs with the Excel flashing here. *Done correctly, it will not leak and will stay leak-free over its lifetime. Done right, there will be little caulking or sealant involved.*
> 
> 
> Some metal roof tips including an illustration of using a rubber boot, the most common source of leaks according to the video.



The bolded part is what I can't repeat enough.  It doesn't matter how amazing this flashing is if I can't see and learn how to do it correctly, and right.  It doesn't matter how great it is if no roofer here knows how to do it.  That's the point I keep making - if there's nothing but written instructions, then that's a DIY doomed to fail.  We've all done things the first time, especially by written word alone - and they aren't as good as the third time, or more.  I don't have the time and money to do it 3 times so that the third time is finally done right.  

I would be willing to try if I could watch someone do it so I could see the details of the work.  I am not convinced - at all - that I'm going to cut into my metal roofing exactly like my co-worker did and not have the same leaking nightmare he had.  I haven't heard or seen a single thing that explains why his "slits" leaked but somehow if I do the exact same cut mine will be just fine.  

Also...the video does not state the rubber boot is the most common source of leaks - it says that "roof penetrations" are the most common source of leaks.  He appears to take no position on boots or metal flashing.  And it's disappointing that there is no video on doing the metal flashing instead.  I think you have to purchase the series to see all that.  

I love this metal flashing.  If you'd care to drive to Keystone Lake, Oklahoma I'll pay you to put it in.  Been on the phone all day, and still can't find a roofer that doesn't use boots.  In fact, there aren't a lot of metal roofers here, I'm finding.


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## begreen (Nov 26, 2019)

Have your coworker post some pictures of that flashing installation. Maybe we can spot the issue?

FWIW, you are correct. There are many videos on the internet of poor quality flashing of metal chimney pipe on metal roofs. You can almost guarantee that within a few years these installations will be leaking.


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## task (Nov 26, 2019)

I have put in a request to get a picture from him before he fixed it with the second sheet.  I figure you want to see what his cuts looked like, how the flashing slips in there, to see if that's where the issue was.  He's on vacation so not sure if I'll get a response or not.  

Really, his fix here is the same solution as the one in that Youtube video you just posted.  It has that second sheet with the U-cut out of it and slips over.  I do know that he said he bought "regular flashing", so definitely not Excel or something specific to metal roofs.


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## bholler (Nov 26, 2019)

task said:


> I have put in a request to get a picture from him before he fixed it with the second sheet.  I figure you want to see what his cuts looked like, how the flashing slips in there, to see if that's where the issue was.  He's on vacation so not sure if I'll get a response or not.
> 
> Really, his fix here is the same solution as the one in that Youtube video you just posted.  It has that second sheet with the U-cut out of it and slips over.  I do know that he said he bought "regular flashing", so definitely not Excel or something specific to metal roofs.


If you have a sheet of the same metal roofing that is a great solution  and is very easy to do.  But as said many times before both Excell and ventis have very good instructions that go with their metal roof flashing.  It really is not complicated


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## begreen (Nov 26, 2019)

OK, that helps and explains his issues. The flashing is entirely under the roofing, which means there is an entry point below the flashing cone that is entirely dependent on caulking to keep water out. This is a common mistake. I'm not sure why he has the two bent up flaps below the flashing cone, but they look like an issue still. There should be nothing damming water as it flows down the roofing. That is why the proper flashing overlaps the roofing on the bottom edge, without a caulking dam of silicone there.


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## sticks (Nov 26, 2019)

begreen said:


> OK, that helps and explains his issues. The flashing is entirely under the roofing, which means there is an entry point below the flashing cone that is entirely dependent on caulking to keep water out. This is a common mistake. I'm not sure why he has the two bent up flaps below the flashing cone, but they look like an issue still. There should be nothing damming water as it flows down the roofing. That is why the proper flashing overlaps the roofing on the bottom edge, without a caulking dam of silicone there.


 I think those tabs are to block the water from going in the ribs in the roofing. Took me a lot of zooming to come up with that


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## bholler (Nov 26, 2019)

sticks said:


> I think those tabs are to block the water from going in the ribs in the roofing. Took me a lot of zooming to come up with that


Yes and those ribs need to be under the flashing not ontop


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## JRHAWK9 (Nov 26, 2019)

So, did the place install mine correctly?  They really gooped up the storm collar.


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## bholler (Nov 26, 2019)

JRHAWK9 said:


> So, did the place install mine correctly?  They really gooped up the storm collar.
> 
> View attachment 252236


I can't tell at all from that pic.  But what in the hell did they do to that storm collar?


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## JRHAWK9 (Nov 26, 2019)

bholler said:


> I can't tell at all from that pic.  But what in the hell did they do to that storm collar?



If you scroll up I have a couple other photos posted.

I can't tell you.  Maybe wanted to make sure it didn't leak....?


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## bholler (Nov 26, 2019)

JRHAWK9 said:


> If you scroll up I have a couple other photos posted.
> 
> I can't tell you.  Maybe wanted to make sure it didn't leak....?


It looks decent.  I just don't know why they used goop all over


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## begreen (Nov 26, 2019)

bholler said:


> Yes and those ribs need to be under the flashing not ontop


Just looked again, no wonder this poor fellow is dealing with leaks.


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## bholler (Nov 26, 2019)

begreen said:


> Just looked again, no wonder this poor fellow is dealing with leaks.


Yeah really bad install.  Sadly that is pretty common from metal roof guys here


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## begreen (Nov 26, 2019)

bholler said:


> Yeah really bad install.  Sadly that is pretty common from metal roof guys here


Yes, I looked at some youtube videos for a good example and almost all were done incorrectly.


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## bholler (Nov 26, 2019)

begreen said:


> Yes, I looked at some youtube videos for a good example and almost all were done incorrectly.


Yup many roofers seem to have forgotten that water runs down hill when it comes to flashing.


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## begreen (Nov 26, 2019)

bholler said:


> Yup many roofers seem to have forgotten that water runs down hill when it comes to flashing.


Not just roofers. I see this with window and door flashings too. Contractors want to rely too much on sealants instead of understanding nature and gravity. Water wants to flow downhill. Don't put obstructions in its path.


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## task (Nov 27, 2019)

I honestly don't know what's going on.  He's a smart guy, and described his flashing install as cutting a hole and cutting the side slits half way down to slip the flashing under the top half sitting over the bottom half - like a shingled roof basically.   He said that leaked every year until 2 months ago when he decided to add a whole 'nother sheet with a U cut slid over it.  

But what I'm seeing appears to be flashing installed completely underneath the metal sheet roofing, the hole cut for the cone to pop up - which creates a spot for water to go under the metal roofing.  Well I would expect that to leak eventually, totally dependent on caulking to protect that spot from allowing water under the roofing.  

So I'm scratching my head over here.  I don't know why he thought he was doing the side slits and slipping the flashing in there....that's not what I'm seeing.


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## sticks (Nov 30, 2019)

You are calling roofers ? Are there no chimney professionals in your area?


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## Trey1979 (Dec 1, 2019)

task said:


> I honestly don't know what's going on.  He's a smart guy, and described his flashing install as cutting a hole and cutting the side slits half way down to slip the flashing under the top half sitting over the bottom half - like a shingled roof basically.   He said that leaked every year until 2 months ago when he decided to add a whole 'nother sheet with a U cut slid over it.
> 
> But what I'm seeing appears to be flashing installed completely underneath the metal sheet roofing, the hole cut for the cone to pop up - which creates a spot for water to go under the metal roofing.  Well I would expect that to leak eventually, totally dependent on caulking to protect that spot from allowing water under the roofing.
> 
> So I'm scratching my head over here.  I don't know why he thought he was doing the side slits and slipping the flashing in there....that's not what I'm seeing.


put some of that on your rubber boot you might get 5 years out of it


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## Trey1979 (Dec 1, 2019)

Trey1979 said:


> put some of that on your rubber boot you might get 5 years out of it


Its like liquid rubber


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## bholler (Dec 1, 2019)

Trey1979 said:


> Its like liquid rubber


Through the roof or geocell 4500 are much better.


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## Trey1979 (Dec 1, 2019)

bholler said:


> Through the roof or geocell 4500 are much better.


I would use the flashing myself but i have been in considering fir 25 years and have done a little roofing though


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## Trey1979 (Dec 1, 2019)

Constr


Trey1979 said:


> I would use the flashing myself but i have been in considering fir 25 years and have done a little roofing though
> [/QUConstruction


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## task (Dec 2, 2019)

sticks said:


> You are calling roofers ? Are there no chimney professionals in your area?



Yes, but they all use boots too.  Also, I have most of the system installed.  The only part left is to cut the hole in the roof, drop the chimney pipe in, screw down the fire stop, install the flashing and storm collar.  If I wasn't afraid of heights it would have been done already.   



bholler said:


> Through the roof or geocell 4500 are much better.



Are you talking about the boot to pipe seal, or are you talking about the seal between the flashing and roof metal?


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## Grizzerbear (Dec 2, 2019)

task said:


> Are you talking about the boot to pipe seal, or are you talking about the seal between the flashing and roof metal?



I would seal both.


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## task (Dec 2, 2019)

Grizzerbear said:


> I would seal both.



Yes, but I don't think they take the same seal.  One requires high temperature silicone, the other is for mating flashing to metal paneling.  Completely different.


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## bholler (Dec 2, 2019)

task said:


> Yes, but they all use boots too.  Also, I have most of the system installed.  The only part left is to cut the hole in the roof, drop the chimney pipe in, screw down the fire stop, install the flashing and storm collar.  If I wasn't afraid of heights it would have been done already.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you talking about the boot to pipe seal, or are you talking about the seal between the flashing and roof metal?


I have no clue what one would use on a silicone boot because I have not and will never install one.  For the 2 tiny spots on the metal flashing I use through the roof.  The storm collar I use silicone


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## Grizzerbear (Dec 2, 2019)

task said:


> Yes, but I don't think they take the same seal.  One requires high temperature silicone, the other is for mating flashing to metal paneling.  Completely different.



Sorry thought u were asking what you should seal not wat with.


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## EatenByLimestone (Dec 2, 2019)

I've found Geocell to be a bit too self leveling.  Its run down a few roofs on us.   OSI GS 121 has been much better.


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## bholler (Dec 2, 2019)

EatenByLimestone said:


> I've found Geocell to be a bit too self leveling.  Its run down a few roofs on us.   OSI GS 121 has been much better.


Osi is good to.  I am not talking about the regular paintable geocell


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## begreen (Dec 2, 2019)

task said:


> Yes, but I don't think they take the same seal.  One requires high temperature silicone, the other is for mating flashing to metal paneling.  Completely different.


A good quality silicone like GE Silicone II will work fine for the storm collar seam. The chimney pipe will not get over the 400º rating there. If it does, you will have more serious problems to deal with.


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## pakus35 (Oct 2, 2021)

This shows a little bit of how this goes in.


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