# please help me troubleshoot: cannot get brand-new log splitter engine to start



## Cincinnatux (Jan 22, 2010)

I recently purchased and assembled a log splitter from Northern Tool.  The engine is a Honda GX270 with a pull start.  Following the manual, I added the recommended oil and fuel, turned the engine knob to 'on,' fuel to 'on,' choke to 'off,' and proceeded to give the pull cord a good 30 full yanks before giving up.  The engine never caught.  Not sure why the manual recommends setting the choke to 'off' when starting a cold engine, but it does.  I've tried to start it with the choke both off and on, and it made no difference.  I let it sit for a few days and tried it again today with the same results.  I just don't know how to troubleshoot this.  Any advice?  It's not even cold around here (in the 40s), so weather isn't an issue.

I'm trying to get into the whole wood heat solution thing, but I am sadly lacking in the relevant skills and experience.  I live on 5 acres of oak, beech, maple, and hickory, and lost a good 2 dozen trees last year from a nasty wind storm.  But if I can't split the rounds, they're useless to me (these trees are mature, with 2-3' diameter trunks).  I'd be grateful for some Hearth.com forum member expertise here.

Thanks in advance!

- Michael


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## DAKSY (Jan 22, 2010)

Didja check to see if you've got spark at the plug(s)?
Can you smell gas during your efforts?


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## peakbagger (Jan 22, 2010)

Its a Honda, so make sure its got oil as there is a oil switch that grounds out the spark if there is no oil. Easiest way to check for spark if pull the spark plug, reattach the plug wire and make sure that the plug body is touching the engine casting. Pull it over and if you dont see a spark at the spark plug gap, you either have a big ignition or oil switch.  Dont hold onto the plug when you do this as you could get zapped.


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## Cincinnatux (Jan 22, 2010)

DAKSY said:
			
		

> Didja check to see if you've got spark at the plug(s)?
> Can you smell gas during your efforts?



I *can* smell gas when yanking the pull cord.  I removed the spark plug and confirmed that it has the appropriate gap.  The tip of the plug was dry, but smelled of gasoline.  There was a slight brown-black smudge on one side of the ceramic insulation near the tip, but no sign of fouling (brand new plug, after all).  I confirmed that there was nothing wrong with the gas by starting up our Honda lawnmower using the same source fuel.


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## Cincinnatux (Jan 22, 2010)

peakbagger said:
			
		

> Its a Honda, so make sure its got oil as there is a oil switch that grounds out the spark if there is no oil. Easiest way to check for spark if pull the spark plug, reattach the plug wire and make sure that the plug body is touching the engine casting. Pull it over and if you dont see a spark at the spark plug gap, you either have a big ignition or oil switch.  Dont hold onto the plug when you do this as you could get zapped.



Okay.  Next chance I get I'll pull the plug again and test for spark.  (It has the manual-indicated amount of motor oil.)


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## BrotherBart (Jan 22, 2010)

Every GX270 I have has to be choked to start. Even after I just shut it off. Or even in August. The lean burn engines these days are just that way.


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## Gooserider (Jan 23, 2010)

The Honda and Subaru-Robin engines that I'm familiar with seem to start best if I give them 3/4 to full throttle and full choke - make sure the gas is on...  If I do that, it's generally 1st or 2nd pull to start...

General engine troubleshooting -

An engine needs 4 things to run - Air, Fuel, Compression, and Spark...  They all have to happen in the right amounts and at the right times or it won't work.  Fortunately, OPE engines are pretty simple, and usually these things will either be good or seriously bad, which makes troubleshooting easy.

First check is compression - Does the engine offer a good bit of resistance turning over, and have a "lumpy" feel when you pull the cord? - if so compression is probably OK, maybe we will measure it later, but it shouldn't be a problem, especially on a new engine...

Second - Spark - as described above...  Or the alternative method, try holding the plug in your hand while touching the block with the same hand - if you can hang on while pulling the cord, there's a problem - If you get zapped and cuss a bit it's probably OK - verify that the plug is actually sparking...  It won't hurt to try a new plug as well just on general principles - sometimes a plug can be bad even if it looks OK...  Note that spark is the most probable issue...  While you have the plug out, run a second quick compression check - stick your thumb over the plug hole and give the cord a yank - should pop your thumb off with plenty of pressure...

The oil sensor switch has been known to go bad or be defective - if no spark try unplugging it...  Also make sure the main ignition switch is good, and ON - also check to make sure there aren't any other interlock switches you haven't got in the wrong state - probably aren't on a splitter, but...

Third - Fuel - make sure you have gas, and that any gas valve is turned on...  Try draining a bit out of the bowl, make sure you don't have any water or ice in the line...  

Fourth - Air - shouldn't be a problem, but make sure your air filter is clean and properly installed...  Try removing the filter and putting your hand over the carb while pulling - you should get some decent suction, likewise, make sure you are getting a good puff out the exhaust...

If all the above looks good, a test I have done, which is not real good for the engine, but can be indicative, is the "ether test"  - Get a can of ether starter spray and give the engine a good blast in the air filter, and try to start - if it will start and run on the ether, it means the fuel system is the likely problem...  Note that this is a bit abusive on the engine, don't try to do it overly much...

If all of the above doesn't get you running, keep us posted on what you found, but it might be worth thinking about dragging it down to your local OPE repair guy - any competent shop should be able to work on it...

Gooserider


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## Wallyworld (Jan 23, 2010)

Take out the plug,Take some fresh gas, maybe a teaspoon or 2 and pour into the spark plug hole, replace plug, try to start. Post what happens


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## smokinj (Jan 23, 2010)

BrotherBart said:
			
		

> Every GX270 I have has to be choked to start. Even after I just shut it off. Or even in August. The lean burn engines these days are just that way.



+1 and will fire on frist pull sounds like a ground issue.


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## charly (Jan 23, 2010)

Try a new sparkplug. I had a snowblower, shut it off to refuel it, and upon trying to restart it, it would only pop thru the exhaust, like it had sheared the flywheel key, out of time. Checked and not the problem, even checked for a stuck valve. Wound up, the plug showed spark when grounded to the motor, but once torqued into the head, it miss fired. Installed an extra old plug I had, and it started right up. Maybe someone dropped the sparkplug, then installed it in your motor. Another plug is worth a try.


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## gzecc (Jan 24, 2010)

Cinci, the manual probably says to close the choke on cold starts because it was written in China. Probably assembled in China too.


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## southbalto (Jan 25, 2010)

Remove the air filter and see if it starts.

If not, pour a few drops of fuel into the combustion chamber and give it a pull.


report back.


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## ironpony (Jan 25, 2010)

it is not uncommon for a new plug to gas foul
it will look good and even spark when removed
under cylinder pressure it will fail
always keep a spare around, for a couple bucks 
saves alot of grief


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## Cincinnatux (Jan 25, 2010)

Gentlemen, thank you one and all for your time, patience, and wisdom.  After doing two things (first I added a modest amount of oil in case the non-level bearing of the log-splitter was causing the sensor to react; second, I opened the choke), the GX270 started on the first pull.  Like butta.

I will definitely save your responses for future troubleshooting.  Clearly, you gents have been there and done that.  I only had an hour to split wood today (the first day without rain in the past 4 days) because of other Monday obligations (gotta pay for these tools somehow!), but it felt GREAT.

Thanks again; this is not the first time Hearth.com forum members made my life easier, and I hope to be able to return the favor for someone even greener than I in the future.

- Michael


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## pen (Jan 25, 2010)

Cincinnatux said:
			
		

> Gentlemen, thank you one and all for your time, patience, and wisdom.  After doing two things (first I added a modest amount of oil in case the non-level bearing of the log-splitter was causing the sensor to react; second, I opened the choke), the GX270 started on the first pull.  Like butta.
> 
> I will definitely save your responses for future troubleshooting.  Clearly, you gents have been there and done that.  I only had an hour to split wood today (the first day without rain in the past 4 days) because of other Monday obligations (gotta pay for these tools somehow!), but it felt GREAT.
> 
> ...



Sounds great.  I'd double check your oil reading when you get the splitter setting somewhere level, just to make sure you have the right amount in there.  Too much can be just as bad as too little.

Glad to hear it was an easy fix.

pen


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## rustynut (Jan 26, 2010)

hey Cin,
  best keep that motor ball park level so it can distribute the oil internially as designed to.
rn


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## kartracer (Jan 27, 2010)

I have a honda generator and is very touchy about the oil level.It can good,but if on uneven ground,sometimes the sensor thinks it is low.My generator gets run every week and uses more oil than any japanese motor I've ever had.


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## Adios Pantalones (Jan 27, 2010)

Beat me to it- the choke is there to be used during start.  Shut the choke when it's run 30 seconds or less.


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