# Your favorite splitting axe/maul



## chopp056 (Jan 13, 2016)

I have read a few threads about the fiskars but looking for comparison to some other axes or mauls.  I busted my grandads old maul last year and at the time just ran up to harbor freight to grab a 8# maul.  Been using this for about a year as I said an just not happy with it.  I understand you get what you pay for in most cases and it was under 20 bucks I believe.  The edge is just too fat and I feel this thing makes me work twice as hard.  I get a fair amount of bounce and partial splits and Im not exactly a small guy swinging this thing even targeting the grain on the rounds.  Anyways just looking to hear what you use and how you like it.  $100 for the stihl axe seems expensive but wouldnt mind hearing some personal experience with it, fiskars or anyting else


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## jatoxico (Jan 14, 2016)

Have an older maul that I re-hafted. Cleaned up the head and put a bit of an edge on it. Not a believer in the idea that dull mauls are better. Since I brought it back from the dead I really like it and it works good. And my Fiskar's out performs it in almost every way.


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## VAfarmer38 (Jan 14, 2016)

I've got a maul that was given to me by my dad.  It's got a triangular shaped wedge head on it and I'm guessing it weighs somewhere around 15 pounds.  Metal handle.  I think I've heard some people call it a monster maul.  That's my go to.


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## bad news (Jan 14, 2016)

I think the profile on the Stihl is a little fat.  The Husqvarna (made by Hultafors) is a narrower, easier splitting design for about the same money.  I have one and it's a great tool.   The Fiskars users here outnumber the rest probably 2:1 and there's good reason for that.  It's the value champion.  Handy to throw in the truck or whatever, the plastic handle doesn't care about moisture.  If none of those do it for you perhaps you'd like the Council Tool stuff. It's reasonably priced and made in the United States.


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## heavy hammer (Jan 14, 2016)

I like the Wilton bash 8 lb maul goes through anything can be used to hit wedges, and handle is supposed to be unbreakable.  Plus if it does break you get $1000.  It's a big hammer but does an awesome job.  Cost is about $120 but look it never breaks, and if it does you are covered.


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## CountryBoy19 (Jan 14, 2016)

I haven't used any other "premium" brands, but compared to the box-store mauls and other splitting devices the Fiskars is hands-down, without a shadow of a doubt, the winner. Less work, less fatigue, easier to aim, doesn't stick in the wood, and best of all, it gets results (wood splits) much faster and easier.


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## Hasufel (Jan 14, 2016)

CountryBoy19 said:


> I haven't used any other "premium" brands, but compared to the box-store mauls and other splitting devices the Fiskars is hands-down, without a shadow of a doubt, the winner. Less work, less fatigue, easier to aim, doesn't stick in the wood, and best of all, it gets results (wood splits) much faster and easier.


+1 to that. Night and day difference over my old, heavy, and remarkably ineffectual maul.


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## Hickorynut (Jan 14, 2016)

I have a 6lb, an 8lb and a fiskars 27 and I like the 8lb maul the best.  Don't know what brand it is or where it came from, only that I got it from my dad. It has a hickory 36" wood handle.  And I split all my wood by hand.


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## OhioBurner© (Jan 15, 2016)

There was a great review here way back on a couple Helkos which I ended up trying, the Scandinavian axe and the heavy splitter. Also have a fairly generic 8# maul. I like the X27 the best by far.


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## bad news (Jan 15, 2016)

heavy hammer said:


> I like the Wilton bash 8 lb maul goes through anything can be used to hit wedges, and handle is supposed to be unbreakable.  Plus if it does break you get $1000.  It's a big hammer but does an awesome job.  Cost is about $120 but look it never breaks, and if it does you are covered.


 
I hadn't heard of these and looked it up.  It is a pretty good looking tool - the not too wide and blunt.  Six and eight pound heads with 30" and 36" handles:

http://www.wiltontools.com/us/en/c/...litting-mauls/W420?Series=spltmaul&reset=true

Perhaps someone who wants a Fiskars-style tool with a heavier head would like this.


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Jan 15, 2016)

As someone who has many many axes and mauls, you can't beat the Fiskars Products.  When I want to experiment or have a job outside of the normal task range, I have a whole bunch of my own project axe/maul creations but at the end of the day, I usually reach for my Fiskars tools.


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Jan 15, 2016)

bad news said:


> I hadn't heard of these and looked it up.  It is a pretty good looking tool - the not too wide and blunt.  Six and eight pound heads with 30" and 36" handles:
> 
> http://www.wiltontools.com/us/en/c/...litting-mauls/W420?Series=spltmaul&reset=true
> 
> Perhaps someone who wants a Fiskars-style tool with a heavier head would like this.


A 30" handle is not long enough for a splitting tool.  Even 36" is a on the short side but has become the norm.


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## heavy hammer (Jan 15, 2016)

The nice thing about the Wilton is you can use it to split with its edge or use it to drive wedges.  The head is a very strong steel I have even hit a wedge that was stuck in a piece of wood with the edge and it dented the wedge not the maul edge.  Everyone has something that they eventually find and like.  I figured for the money how bad could it be plus if you break you get paid.  So I use it hard I pretty much try to destroy it.  Never tried the fiskars but it seems popular as long as it splits wood I like it.


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## chopp056 (Jan 15, 2016)

Ok well fiskars ordered, hardware store was out of them


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## OhioBurner© (Jan 16, 2016)

Meant to post this up prior but didn't have the pic handy. The two Helko axes plus my 8 lb maul and Fiskarks...


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## duramaxman05 (Jan 16, 2016)

I have no complaints with my fiskars x27


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## Hasufel (Jan 16, 2016)

OhioBurner© said:


> Meant to post this up prior but didn't have the pic handy. The two Helko axes plus my 8 lb maul and Fiskarks...


Couldn't help but notice the Helkos look brand new while the X27 and maul are pretty beat up--do you not use the Helkos very much, or do you just take extra good care of them?


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## OhioBurner© (Jan 16, 2016)

That was the day I first got them out, they were brand new.


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## CTYank (Jan 17, 2016)

Best I've found yet:
6 lb Council Tools (NC, US of A) maul with 34" handle, can be had from Baileys for ~$26
6.6 lb Mueller maul (Austria) from TraditionalWoodWorker For $155
5 lb Wetterlings also very good- Scandinavian design.

Tiny bit of touch-up near the edge of the Council maul, and it's ready for duty.

All above are way better than common cheapies. Wish I'd discovered Council's earlier. Yes, I've tried fiskars.
The above can be used to pound on steel wedges a/r.


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## CountryBoy19 (Jan 21, 2016)

CentralVAWoodHeat said:


> A 30" handle is not long enough for a splitting tool.  Even 36" is a on the short side but has become the norm.


Once upon a time the longest Fiskars was 28", then the X-series came along and added a 36".

IMHO, 36" is too long, 28" is just a tad short. I've been splitting for years now with my 28" Fiskars and I think the perfect length would be 30-32"... just my opinion.


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## Dobish (Jan 22, 2016)

i have a 4.5lb fiberglass handled one from the Big Box store. I really don't like it. I put a new edge on it, and it seems like every other swing the head gets stuck. I don't know if it is the axe, the technique, or the stringy box elder..... 

my 8# maul went walking off a while ago, as did my sledge hammer, so I am hoping that one of these days they come walking back, or I get an X27 for my birthday next week (its def. on the list!)


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Jan 23, 2016)

CountryBoy19 said:


> Once upon a time the longest Fiskars was 28", then the X-series came along and added a 36".
> 
> IMHO, 36" is too long, 28" is just a tad short. I've been splitting for years now with my 28" Fiskars and I think the perfect length would be 30-32"... just my opinion.


For a primary splitting maul?  Maybe if you are very short that would be appropriate.  I would recommend a longer one for someone in excess of 6 feet tall though.


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## CountryBoy19 (Jan 23, 2016)

CentralVAWoodHeat said:


> For a primary splitting maul?  Maybe if you are very short that would be appropriate.  I would recommend a longer one for someone in excess of 6 feet tall though.


For what reason? Longer = less head velocity plain and simple...

For splitting on a block there is no reason to go over 36" even for somebody in excess of 6' tall. I'm 5'11" and find the X-27 is too long and "gangly" and ultimately takes more work splitting because I can't get the needed head velocity. 28" OTOH, is a bit short, there is a risk of shin/foot injury if you don't make good contact with the wood. In my numerous years using my 28" I've never had a problem with this but I would prefer just a couple more inches.


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Jan 23, 2016)

CountryBoy19 said:


> For what reason? Longer = less head velocity plain and simple...
> 
> For splitting on a block there is no reason to go over 36" even for somebody in excess of 6' tall. I'm 5'11" and find the X-27 is too long and "gangly" and ultimately takes more work splitting because I can't get the needed head velocity. 28" OTOH, is a bit short, there is a risk of shin/foot injury if you don't make good contact with the wood. In my numerous years using my 28" I've never had a problem with this but I would prefer just a couple more inches.


We discussed this on a recent forum but to re-visit.  Yes, a longer lever arm will result in a lower head velocity, unless you have the practice and strength to swing it faster.  I don't care how fast you swing a 28" splitting maul, there is a maximum reasonable velocity.  Once you get to that point, increasing the length of the lever arm and weight will be beneficial if you can over time attain that same maximum velocity.  No matter how quickly you swing a 28" maul, it simply will not have the mass or torque to get through some larger splits.  

That being said, there is only so long a maul that one can reasonably handle at a given height.  I would not recommend the same splitting axes and mauls I use for beginners or shorter individuals.  In addition, I actually do have some shorter 26-30" splitting mauls.  I built them especially for when I am splitting in inclement weather under one of my carports/wood storage areas.  They are great because I can clear the roof with them but I can certainly say that the results I have are far inferior to my longer and heavier splitting tools.


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## Dobish (Jan 25, 2016)

So i sharpened my splitting axe again, and also split some of the fresher stuff, and it seemed to do a better job. It seems like the sweet spot is less than 12" dia for what I am doing. 

Took me about 2 hours to split and stack the second stack from the left.


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## chopp056 (Jan 25, 2016)

went with fiskars x27.  I am very happy with it so far, splits great and seems more durable then it feels.  I had a few shafts hits being longer then I am used to but seems strong.  I would recommend it


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## St. Coemgen (Feb 10, 2016)

If your wallet is a bit heavy this month and you want to lighten it, there is always the Leveraxe:




or Leveraxe 2:


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## Dobish (Feb 10, 2016)

I ended up buying an x27 for myself for my birthday, and it is good. It seemed to bounce out of the rounds a lot, but now that the coating is wearing off a little bit, and I am getting a better feel for how it swings and splits, I am liking it more. I have a lot of pieces that are a pain to split, so I still have been smashing at them with the wedge and sledge....


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## Hasufel (Feb 10, 2016)

I just ordered a Fiskars 8# splitting maul to keep my X27 and X15 company. I have some oak rounds that are approaching 2' in diameter and it usually takes a few hits with the X27 before I get the first split--after that it's easy peasy. I'm hoping the Fiskars maul will make a difference on that first split. I could probably manage with just the X27 but in part I'm planning ahead. I've got more big stuff in my future and want to make it as easy on me as possible!


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## OhioBurner© (Feb 10, 2016)

I'm almost ashamed to admit I just bought a log splitter. I had a huge pile of unsplittable-by-hand pieces, plus about a cord of spruce yard trees full of knots and branches that I wasn't going to be worth the effort even trying to split by hand.

I'll still use the Fiskars when I need a good workout and have the extra time.


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## FTG-05 (Feb 11, 2016)

OhioBurner© said:


> I'm almost ashamed to admit I just bought a log splitter. I had a huge pile of unsplittable-by-hand pieces, plus about a cord of spruce yard trees full of knots and branches that I wasn't going to be worth the effort even trying to split by hand.
> 
> I'll still use the Fiskars when I need a good workout and have the extra time.



Count me in the "have a log splitter" crowd!  +60 years, my days of hand splitting wood, with anything, are over!

Yea, getting old isn't for wussies  In hydraulics, we trust!


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Feb 13, 2016)

FTG-05 said:


> Count me in the "have a log splitter" crowd!  +60 years, my days of hand splitting wood, with anything, are over!
> 
> Yea, getting old isn't for wussies  In hydraulics, we trust!


Yup!  Log splitters are like trucks.  Folks claim they don't need them but will always be quick to call on someone who has one when they do need it.

I do almost all my splitting by hand but still employ a splitter every so often.


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## Hasufel (Feb 18, 2016)

My Fiskars 8# maul arrived yesterday and I finally got a chance to try it out this afternoon on some 18"+ oak rounds. The sound it makes when hitting the round is very satisfying but it didn't seem to split much better than my X27--it took two or three hits to start a split and then one more to open it up. Then, for the sake of comparison, I tried the X27. Bounce. Bounce. Bounce. It finally dawned on me that the rounds were frozen and were taking more force to split than I had been used to. So it wasn't really a fair test of the maul. Relative to the X27 it was actually doing a better job--I just need to wait for a thaw before doing a real test of its abilities. And of course the X27 feels super light after I've taken a few swings with the maul. The handle on the maul is a couple inches shorter than on the X27 so I had to remember to adjust my aim. It's also coated with a much "grippier" material, which means I might not even need gloves with it (once the weather warms up, that is). 

But the best news is that my new Dolmar 7910 was waiting for me when I got home! I can hardly wait to try it out. Unfortunately the next few weekends are largely spoken for so I might not have a good opportunity until March. Bummer...


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Feb 19, 2016)

Hasufel said:


> My Fiskars 8# maul arrived yesterday and I finally got a chance to try it out this afternoon on some 18"+ oak rounds. The sound it makes when hitting the round is very satisfying but it didn't seem to split much better than my X27--it took two or three hits to start a split and then one more to open it up. Then, for the sake of comparison, I tried the X27. Bounce. Bounce. Bounce. It finally dawned on me that the rounds were frozen and were taking more force to split than I had been used to. So it wasn't really a fair test of the maul. Relative to the X27 it was actually doing a better job--I just need to wait for a thaw before doing a real test of its abilities. And of course the X27 feels super light after I've taken a few swings with the maul. The handle on the maul is a couple inches shorter than on the X27 so I had to remember to adjust my aim. It's also coated with a much "grippier" material, which means I might not even need gloves with it (once the weather warms up, that is).
> 
> But the best news is that my new Dolmar 7910 was waiting for me when I got home! I can hardly wait to try it out. Unfortunately the next few weekends are largely spoken for so I might not have a good opportunity until March. Bummer...


Frozen oak will split much easier than non-frozen oak.


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## Hasufel (Feb 19, 2016)

CentralVAWoodHeat said:


> Frozen oak will split much easier than non-frozen oak.


That's what I thought but I'm not finding it to be the case, at least with the oak rounds I'm dealing with. Maybe it has to do with moisture content or some other factor? After last week's storm there's still a coating of ice on many of the rounds. I dunno, but the frozen ones are definitely giving me more trouble than I'm used to with the X27.


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## Xtrl9 (Feb 20, 2016)

Hasufel said:


> That's what I thought but I'm not finding it to be the case, at least with the oak rounds I'm dealing with. Maybe it has to do with moisture content or some other factor? After last week's storm there's still a coating of ice on many of the rounds. I dunno, but the frozen ones are definitely giving me more trouble than I'm used to with the X27.


I use an x27 for most of my splitting, which is mostly oak and black locust. sometimes on the big stuff I have rounds that are also pretty close to 2', wedge and sledge to get them in half; helps the x27 carve stack able pieces.  I said most, sometimes you get some nasty twisted knotty grain that you don't want to touch with hand tools if you can; I've spent over an hour splitting one round that size and it was TOUGH. Might seem silly but see if the grain looks the same top and bottom, if it doesn't you may have some hidden knots. Like another poster said "you can't beat hydraulics", they are 10 times stronger than you and I don't feel bad about borrowing one and taking a whole pile of rounds down in a weekend.


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Feb 20, 2016)

Hasufel said:


> That's what I thought but I'm not finding it to be the case, at least with the oak rounds I'm dealing with. Maybe it has to do with moisture content or some other factor? After last week's storm there's still a coating of ice on many of the rounds. I dunno, but the frozen ones are definitely giving me more trouble than I'm used to with the X27.


The higher the moisture, the better when frozen.  The round turns into a big piece of ice.  When you strike it, it snaps right open along the grain.  Except for a few species, green wood is always easier to split, especially when frozen.  You may just have some really knotty pieces.


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## Hasufel (Feb 21, 2016)

CentralVAWoodHeat said:


> The higher the moisture, the better when frozen.  The round turns into a big piece of ice.  When you strike it, it snaps right open along the grain.  Except for a few species, green wood is always easier to split, especially when frozen.  You may just have some really knotty pieces.


Nope, definitely not knotty--these are rounds from a long, straight stretch of trunk. And I did get some split, it just took a few hits with the maul to get them started. The wood technically isn't "green" because it's been on the ground long enough to start getting punky around the edges. But the heartwood is still super wet, at least 50% MC (my MM doesn't go any higher). I'm thinking they might just be too wet, and that the internal moisture plus the ice/snow we got helped form an extra hard ice cap. They should be thawed out by now so I'll give it another shot next time I have some spare daylight...


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## AmbDrvr253 (Feb 22, 2016)

I like my fiskars X27


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Feb 22, 2016)

Hasufel said:


> Nope, definitely not knotty--these are rounds from a long, straight stretch of trunk. And I did get some split, it just took a few hits with the maul to get them started. The wood technically isn't "green" because it's been on the ground long enough to start getting punky around the edges. But the heartwood is still super wet, at least 50% MC (my MM doesn't go any higher). I'm thinking they might just be too wet, and that the internal moisture plus the ice/snow we got helped form an extra hard ice cap. They should be thawed out by now so I'll give it another shot next time I have some spare daylight...


Not to split hairs but that wood is green.  Anything that high in moisture at the center is still above the fiber saturation point.  That is typically the accepted definition of green wood.  It can be fully punked on the outside and cut for years but still be green in the heart wood if not cut, split, and stacked properly.


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## Hasufel (Feb 22, 2016)

CentralVAWoodHeat said:


> Not to split hairs but that wood is green.  Anything that high in moisture at the center is still above the fiber saturation point.  That is typically the accepted definition of green wood.  It can be fully punked on the outside and cut for years but still be green in the heart wood if not cut, split, and stacked properly.


Fair enough! Then the oak in question is most definitely green. It's had a chance to thaw so I did some more splitting this afternoon. This time my new system worked great--one or two hits with the Fiskars maul popped the round in half, a couple more hits quartered it, and then I switched to the X27 to finish it off. This is wonderful oak, almost entirely free of knots. The only problem is that the rounds are large enough that they're hard to split initially...but now the maul takes care of that. I'll have to try it out on some hickory next.


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## jetsam (Feb 22, 2016)

+1 for the Fiskars X27.

It's at least as effective as my good old 8lb maul, and lighter.

I had a gnarly piece of oak that the Fiskars just kept bouncing off of today. Went to get the maul, same problem. Went to get the wedges after that!


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## bboulier (Feb 22, 2016)

I have a couple of mauls and wedges, but almost never use them anymore.   They have been replaced with a Fiskars X27.


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## KD0AXS (Feb 25, 2016)

Hopefully the X27 works as great as everyone says it does.  I just picked one up off eBay for $32.


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## Xtrl9 (Feb 25, 2016)

Just remember that it won't split anything and everything, but I've never used a more efficient  hand splitter.


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## Hasufel (Feb 27, 2016)

Just spent a few hours working through my oak backlog and perfecting my technique. As I mentioned above, I recently picked up a Fiskars 8# maul to supplement my X27 and X15. I have an old no-name 8# maul as well, but there's no comparison. The X27 is great but I have some rounds that it was having trouble getting started. The process I settled on is to wrap the round with a bungee cord, split it into eights with the maul, then switch to the X27 for additional radial and circumferential splits as necessary. Then I remove the bungee, use the X27 to resplit any pieces still stuck together, and use the X15 to shave off any loose bark or punk. Voila! Ready to stack. The Fiskars maul might take two or three hits to create the first split but it eventually smashes through most stuff with a very satisfying sound, and after the first couple of splits I dial back my swing and pretty much just let gravity do the work. One thing to be careful of is that, after hefting the maul, the X27 feels like lightweight children's toy--so you have to be careful to keep it under control and not go wild with it. All in all a great combination. I haven't used wedges lately (haven't needed to with my current tool selection) but the hammer side of the Fiskars maul is quite large and looks like it would drive wedges quite well, even if your aim isn't perfect...


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## MaulMan (Feb 28, 2016)

My favorite maul is an old 8 lb craftsman that I bought at a garage sale about 15 years ago.  I have no idea how old it really is, but I like to imagine that it's really really old.  To my kids that would be 40 (I'm 45).  I profiled the tip, polished the sides so they're darn slick, hung it on a nice $12 fawns foot axe handle, and sharpened the crap out of it. 
I realize that isn't helpful to anyone else who's considering a new maul so I did a lot of comparisons while splitting and analyzed what I like and dislike about all my splitters.    In addition to the craftsmanI've got a fiskars x27, two fiberglass handled big box pieces of garbage, a Chopper1, and a 6lb oldie from a flea market that I refurbished.  I've fondled a Stihl pro maul enough that the guys who work at the store asked me if I wanted to buy it a drink.  But I didn't take her home...
It's pretty interesting that my old Craftsman and the fiskars have a very similar profile (and so do the Stihl mauls- thats why I  didn't buy one). I think the lack of a bevel at the tip and smooth sides make all the difference. I do NOT like the really defined 'cheeks' on the fiskars.  In stringy or knotty rounds that don't bust open the cheeks get stuck in the wood.  This happens enough for me that it's a problem.






 My craptastic fiberglass cheapos both have a major bevel at the tip, which I think is only not terrible on certain types of relatively dry softwood.  Those things don't penatrate hard wood worth a darn.  I won't spend anymore time on those because, well, they suck.
I find the steel on the fiskars to be...ungood.  when I get into knotty stuff the edge rolls and/or knicks easily.  It happens on every one my mauls except the old Craftsman. I think the steel in that old thing is way better than anything else I've got so it holds an edge way longer and under much more abuse.  The fiskars appears to be the softest steel of all my splitters 
The handle is also a big deal to me.  I sanded and rubbed on the hickory handle I hung in the old craftsman enough that my girlfriend got a little suspicious, and maybe I rub boiled linseed oil on it more than is really needed. But that handle feels freakin' fantastic now!  I usually don't wear gloves when I'm swinging it cause I don't want anything between me and the hickory.  
I really don't like the handle on the fiskars.  It feels cheap and rough.  I don't get enough shock or vibration through the plastic to be a problem, but it's more than the hickory handle.  
When I'm splitting a lot I'll use an assortment of tools, but mostly the 8lb craftsman and the fiskars.  The lighter weight of the fiskars  is a nice break from the 8 pounder, but it won't bust open the big / difficult rounds as well.  And every time I put down the fiskars and pick up the old craftsman it makes me appreciate that hickory handle even more.


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## woodhog73 (Feb 29, 2016)

Does anyone have an input on a Gransfors Brux large splitting axe ? Or their splitting maul ? I was thinking about the 5lb large splitting axe but it's expensive at $175 bucks. Any input on it ? I watched a youtube video a guy did on one and it looks life a lifetime tool. I personally just use the cheap box store stuff when it comes to mauls and axes. Wondering what advantages this type of hand made axe would have ?


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## jetsam (Feb 29, 2016)

St. Coemgen said:


> If your wallet is a bit heavy this month and you want to lighten it, there is always the Leveraxe:
> 
> View attachment 174460
> 
> ...



I have seen some genuinely funny videos of people attempting to use those products to split wood.

The one I linked shows a guy taking half an hour and a hundred swings (*blonk blonk blonk*)  to do five minutes of splitting.  Afterwards he confides to the camera that he has serious reservations about the way the handle is painted.


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## jetsam (Feb 29, 2016)

woodhog73 said:


> Does anyone have an input on a Gransfors Brux large splitting axe ? Or their splitting maul ? I was thinking about the 5lb large splitting axe but it's expensive at $175 bucks. Any input on it ? I watched a youtube video a guy did on one and it looks life a lifetime tool. I personally just use the cheap box store stuff when it comes to mauls and axes. Wondering what advantages this type of hand made axe would have ?



A $5 garage sale maul is also a lifetime tool unless you grind a new edge on it every day. 

On the other hand,  you don't  want to be seen in your artisinal brand name lumberjack outfit and a cheap unfashionable maul!


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## woodhog73 (Feb 29, 2016)

jetsam said:


> A $5 garage sale maul is also a lifetime tool unless you grind a new edge on it every day.
> 
> On the other hand,  you don't  want to be seen in your artisinal brand name lumberjack outfit and a cheap unfashionable maul!



Funny and good point on the garage sale. When I saw the prices of the Gransfors stuff I thought it was a misprint ! That stuff is more money than I can spend on a manual splitting tool. I'm just curious if they work about $130 dollars better than my generic maul that I got for like $40 bucks.

I'm interested in getting a decent wood handled splitting axe to use instead of the heavy maul all the time but my price range is more like $50 tops.

Someone on here posted a picture of a nice Stihl splitting axe with a wood handle but it too looks like it's expensive.


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## jotul8e2 (Feb 29, 2016)

It is easy to snigger at high dollar versions of everyday items, but there is value in buying things that really are well made that goes beyond the mere utility of the object; things that bring pleasure just to handle.  This is probably as true in tools as any product I can think of:  Lie Nielson planes, Bad Axe hand saws, Thompson lathe tools, Snap-on six point sockets (the only thing in this list I own).  And yes, Gransfors Bruk.  If your budget will stretch that far and it is something you will enjoy, why not?

But then tools have to actually work, right?  And for most of us funds are not easily replenished.  Well, sometimes there are alternatives.  Gransfors Bruks has a less expensive line branded "Wetterlings", largely the same product but with a lower level of finish and far lower prices.  And I believe it was mentioned elsewhere on these forums that the $99 Husqvarna maul is made by Hultafors.  Council Tool of North Carolina makes high dollar Velvicut axes but also a selection of mauls that should last a couple of lifetimes in heavy use at Fiskers prices, more or less.

I paid $80 for my Stihl maul and have never regretted a dime.  The most expensive maul I ever owned cost $25 - it was a dead loss.


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## jetsam (Feb 29, 2016)

If it is a heavy piece of metal that I can sharpen and put a stick through,  it's somewhere above zero on the Maul Scale.

In related news,  I recently made myself a hatchet handle for a Keen Kutter that's  been in the family,  using only hand tools.  Didn't have a froe or a drawknife. Came out of it understanding why we invented power tools.     Going in,  I estimated the project at around 60 minutes,  and it wound up being more like 8 hours.   Did learn some useful stuff though,  which I didn't expect.


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## Hasufel (Mar 4, 2016)

Update to my earlier posts about my new Fiskars maul--much as I love my X27, I'm finding more and more situations where the maul just does a better job (the Fiskars maul, not my old big-box cheapy). Today I was splitting some knotty tulip poplar--nothing big, maybe 8-10" diameter--and the X27 wasn't doing a whole lot. It was taking 3+ hits just to start a split, then another hit to pry it apart. So I switched to the maul, and it was blowing apart the rounds on the first hit. Very satisfying! After the first split the maul was overkill so I switched back to the X27 to finish the job. The X27 still works great across a wide range of situations but for big & tough stuff I've really come to appreciate the maul.


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## Vikingsholm (Mar 9, 2016)

Hasufel said:


> Update to my earlier posts about my new Fiskars maul--much as I love my X27, I'm finding more and more situations where the maul just does a better job (the Fiskars maul, not my old big-box cheapy). Today I was splitting some knotty tulip poplar--nothing big, maybe 8-10" diameter--and the X27 wasn't doing a whole lot. It was taking 3+ hits just to start a split, then another hit to pry it apart. So I switched to the maul, and it was blowing apart the rounds on the first hit. Very satisfying! After the first split the maul was overkill so I switched back to the X27 to finish the job. The X27 still works great across a wide range of situations but for big & tough stuff I've really come to appreciate the maul.



Are you talking about the Fiskar Isocore maul?


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## colin.p (Mar 10, 2016)

Hasufel said:


> Update to my earlier posts about my new Fiskars maul--much as I love my X27, I'm finding more and more situations where the maul just does a better job (the Fiskars maul, not my old big-box cheapy). Today I was splitting some knotty tulip poplar--nothing big, maybe 8-10" diameter--and the X27 wasn't doing a whole lot. It was taking 3+ hits just to start a split, then another hit to pry it apart. So I switched to the maul, and it was blowing apart the rounds on the first hit. Very satisfying! After the first split the maul was overkill so I switched back to the X27 to finish the job. The X27 still works great across a wide range of situations but for big & tough stuff I've really come to appreciate the maul.



I am finding the same thing. Usually one swing and the Isocore busts right through .


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## Hasufel (Mar 10, 2016)

Vikingsholm said:


> Are you talking about the Fiskar Isocore maul?


Yes, the Isocore. Me like!


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## StihlKicking (Mar 10, 2016)

Council 8lbs maul


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## Fulkrum78 (Mar 11, 2016)

Question... I need a hand splitter (currently have none). X27 or Fiskars isocore?


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## drz1050 (Mar 11, 2016)

Between those two, X27. 

The local antique shops would be worth a stop though.. an old 6 or 8 lb axe eye maul is my favorite. And they just look way cooler than the fiskars IMO when they're all fixed up... and really, that's a part of it. Aaaand a wooden handle always beats synthetic for me.


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## jetsam (Mar 11, 2016)

Fulkrum78 said:


> Question... I need a hand splitter (currently have none). X27 or Fiskars isocore?



Never tried the isocore.

You need a sledge hammer, some wedges, and a maul to split wood. An old fashioned 8lb maul works great. The X27 works just as well and is lighter but more expensive.

I might suggest earplugs too. Sledge'n'wedge can be considerably louder than a chainsaw.

I also keep my hatchet and big chainsaw handy when splitting. Some people also use a pickaroon. (I made one, don't really use it.) The hatchet is for trimming little stuff and knocking wedges sideways; the chainsaw is for ultra-knotty pieces that the maul won't touch and the wedges reduce to funny shaped chunks.


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## Vikingsholm (Mar 11, 2016)

I get a lot of tough wood, especially pinyon.  The only thing I've found that works is wedges and a sledge hammer with lots of beating.  I wish there was a demo day where I could put that Fiskar into some of this wood.  

I also prefer wood handles. It doesn't look like you can replace a Fiskar handle if you break it. Nope,I'll stick with wedges. I have a Mueller 'twisted' wedge that twists as it's driven in that should be here today.  I'm looking forward to trying it out!


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## woodhog73 (Mar 11, 2016)

I have wedges but hardly ever use them. 

I use an 8lb maul to break open big hardwood rounds. Anything 14 inches etc and bigger in diameter the 8lb maul. Then I switch to a 4lb long handled splitting axe something similiar to a Fiskers x27. I just have cheap generic ones but I hear the Fiskers is nice.

The basic ones found at big box stores have worked ok for me.

If the rounds are simply too big to bust open, and don't crack with 4 or 5 swings of the maul, I noodle it with the chainsaw. You don't have to completely cut it in half just a 1/4 way through will allow the round to bust open since the wood now has a place to expand. Lay the round on it's side to noodle, don't lay it on it's end standing up ( like you would when swinging the maul ) that would be rip cutting with the saw and is harder than cutting on it's side


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## jetsam (Mar 11, 2016)

woodhog73 said:


> I have wedges but hardly ever use them.
> 
> I use an 8lb maul to break open big hardwood rounds. Anything 14 inches etc and bigger in diameter the 8lb maul. Then I switch to a 4lb long handled splitting axe something similiar to a Fiskers x27. I just have cheap generic ones but I hear the Fiskers is nice.
> 
> ...



I use wedges a lot and try not to noodle at all.

I am splitting a huge maple now that I have been noodling some though, just because if I split it with wedges I get very irregular pieces that are hard to tetris into the stove.  If this same tree was an oak, I'd be doing it all with maul and sledge. If it was an elm, I'd be doing it all with the chainsaw. 







Big gnarly maple


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## woodhog73 (Mar 11, 2016)

Lots of people split with just a lightweight splitting axe like a Fiskers but to me the heavier 8lb maul does a better job of busting open large rounds. 

If everything was smaller say under the 14 to 15 inch mark I probably wouldn't bother with the heavier maul.

As for noodling I generally line up all my big rounds at once and just go and put a slice in them a few inches deep up to 1/4 of the diameter. It only takes a few minutes then I can bust them I'm half with the maul. So I do that all at once next, then after I half them, switch to the 4lb splitting axe to finish them up. 

I can see why you got yourself a bigger saw and bought the Dolmar. I wouldn't want to cut up the tree in your picture with a 30cc saw. That would be an exercise in patience !


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## woodsmaster (Mar 12, 2016)

VAfarmer38 said:


> I've got a maul that was given to me by my dad.  It's got a triangular shaped wedge head on it and I'm guessing it weighs somewhere around 15 pounds.  Metal handle.  I think I've heard some people call it a monster maul.  That's my go to.



 I used one of those for years. It was also my dads. i bought a fiskars last fall and love it. I cringed at the price but I've come to find out it was worth every penny. It works SO much better, It's SO much lighter. and the handle don't get cold like that steel one.


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## jetsam (Mar 12, 2016)

I don't really find that my X27 works any better than my old 8lb maul, but it is 25% lighter and works just as well.

I wouldn't cry myself to sleep if I had to go back to the old maul, but lighter is nicer.

Check out this split:






Inside. See the nice smooth grain? You could split that with a table knife!






Back side. One inch away and not a straight grain in sight!  Put the table knife away.






There he is fresh split.


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## jotul8e2 (Mar 13, 2016)

VAfarmer38 said:


> I've got a maul that was given to me by my dad.  It's got a triangular shaped wedge head on it and I'm guessing it weighs somewhere around 15 pounds.  Metal handle.  I think I've heard some people call it a monster maul.  That's my go to.



I always figured that if I was strong enough to swing one of those I would also be strong enough to just rip the rounds apart with my bare hands, in which case I would not need a maul anyway.


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## MadraMór (Apr 7, 2016)

I have an 11lb (5kg) maul which was made in Austria.  It is high quality, keeps a good edge and has flat cheeks. While expensive, it is the best maul that I have ever used.  I split a lot of spruce which is a soft wood, but it tends to be full of knots and frequently has dead branches running through the rounds which makes things a bit more difficult.  When full swings become 'overkill', I shorten the grip and use half or quarter swings. It does not split everything.  With the really difficult rounds, out comes the sledgehammer and wedges.  I find that once the 'mean ones' are split in two, the rest of the job is generally easier and it is back to the maul.


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## DUMF (Apr 8, 2016)

jetsam said:


> .
> 
> View attachment 176634
> 
> ...



*Mr. Wedge here ....again.*
*Looks like Mr. Jet has two (2) shrapnel wedges waiting for flesh.*
Advice ? Grind the corners down to 45 angles. Remember ER deductibles. 
That manly sledge you have will do wonders with mushroomed steel.


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## Fishnuts2 (Apr 8, 2016)

jotul8e2 said:


> I always figured that if I was strong enough to swing one of those I would also be strong enough to just rip the rounds apart with my bare hands, in which case I would not need a maul anyway.


It's always fun to watch people trying to SWING a Sotz Monster Maul. It weighs 15 lb and is not meant to be used like an axe. Lift it above your head and let physics drive it through the wood. It never sticks in the wood and is rarely denied.  Just give it a little pop when it hits the block. 

I have tried them all including x27s, lever mauls, and splitting axes. I split a lot of White Oak in the 80's with my FiL's Monster Maul and it proved itself. 
I found a used one 15 yrs ago and use it for all my cabin wood. At age 62, easiest matters!
It is still the most efficient if used properly.


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## MadraMór (Apr 9, 2016)

Fishnuts2 said:


> It's always fun to watch people trying to SWING a Sotz Monster Maul. It weighs 15 lb and is not meant to be used like an axe. Lift it above your head and let physics drive it through the wood. It never sticks in the wood and is rarely denied.  Just give it a little pop when it hits the block.
> 
> I have tried them all including x27s, lever mauls, and splitting axes. I split a lot of White Oak in the 80's with my FiL's Monster Maul and it proved itself.
> I found a used one 15 yrs ago and use it for all my cabin wood. At age 62, easiest matters!
> It is still the most efficient if used properly.


I am the same age as yourself and I do find that my 11 LB maul is easier to work with on the heavier stuff than using a lighter maul with many more swings.  Having said that if you are working with light stuff with straight grain and no knots it does make sense to use a light maul or indeed an axe.
I suppose it is a matter of horses for courses!


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## skolsplitter (Jan 9, 2017)

VAfarmer38 said:


> I've got a maul that was given to me by my dad.  It's got a triangular shaped wedge head on it and I'm guessing it weighs somewhere around 15 pounds.  Metal handle.  I think I've heard some people call it a monster maul.  That's my go to.



I have been using a 15# monster maul for over 20 years  You have to "read the wood" to use it effectively.  never use it to drive steel wedges.   release grip on the handle just before
	

		
			
		

		
	





	

		
			
		

		
	
 contact with the log.


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## Hasufel (Jan 9, 2017)

skolsplitter said:


> I have been using a 15# monster maul for over 20 years  You have to "read the wood" to use it effectively.  never use it to drive steel wedges.   release grip on the handle just before
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I almost got one of those monsters because my old maul was bouncing off some tough rounds. I went to Northern Tool but they were out of stock so I held off and then discovered the X27. I'm glad I did because now, a couple years later, it hurts my shoulders to even look at a picture of the monster maul!


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## guardog12 (Jan 23, 2017)

recently bought a Fiskar and I am very impressed. Takes minimal effort and most any log splits with easy. Extremely sharp as well ! I recently cut my finger to the bone sharpening it. ;-(  Guess I did a great job.


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## jetsam (Jan 23, 2017)

Hasufel said:


> I almost got one of those monsters because my old maul was bouncing off some tough rounds. I went to Northern Tool but they were out of stock so I held off and then discovered the X27. I'm glad I did because now, a couple years later, it hurts my shoulders to even look at a picture of the monster maul!



I haven't ever used one of those 15# ones, but I doubt you swing it like an 8# maul. Probably more of an assisted drop. (I kind of drop an 8# maul onto easy splits, and swing it like an axe for tougher ones.)

No matter what you use (including the x27), experience is required to do it effectively- knowing where the wood will split easily and where it won't is 3/4 of the battle. (Well, usually. People who split a lot of elm will probably disagree. . )


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## Dobish (Jan 23, 2017)

i busted out the x27 the other day to split just under a cord. I got through a bunch of walnut and maple pretty easily, and then I got to the heartwood of some 20" round walnut pieces and it started bouncing off on me. I got tired of that and went back to some easy russian olive and aspen... there were a couple of rounds of cherry in there too.  I did pick up one piece of elm, then laughed as I threw it towards the DHT 22.


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## SeñorFuego (Jan 23, 2017)

Currently I've been using the Fiskars X27 and I love it. I got it after some research and due to the high praise from this forum.

I've never used a splitting maul before and I had been thinking about having one around as back up for the occasional times I run into the big stuff.

I found this thread. Discovered the Monster Maul. Jumped on CL and found the tools below only 10 miles away on the way home from work.

Sotz 16lb Monster Maul
Sotz Log Lifter





Upon pickup it was easy to see these tools both fall into the category of "they don't make them like they used to".
$60 for the pair.

I'm curious to see how the Monster Maul will compliment the X27.


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## rwhite (Jan 29, 2017)

I may have been mentioned already,  but for those who have the cheaper big box, HF mauls the best thing you can do is drive the crappy handle out and get a real hickory one. Just stand to the side and watch someone split with a cheap handle. The flex in those things wastes energy and it don't split worth a darn.


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## jetsam (Jan 30, 2017)

SeñorFuego said:


> I found this thread. Discovered the Monster Maul. Jumped on CL and found the tools below only 10 miles away on the way home from work.
> 
> Sotz 16lb Monster Maul
> Sotz Log Lifter
> ...



How did you like that monster maul? I've been curious, have never had my hands on one.


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## HisTreeNut (Feb 13, 2017)

Got myself a Fiskars last year after I inflamed my elbow/arm using my 8# maul, and reading reviews here.  The Fiskars is my weapon of choice when it comes to splitting wood now.  I have used my 8# maul a few times since getting the Fiskars, but after a couple of swings, I am more than happy to go back to my mighty, mighty Fiskars.  I keep it honed with a file and there is not a lot it has not split.  I have split 36" knotty pine rounds and 30" red oak with it.  One of the best purchases I have ever made.  My neighbor watches me split sometimes and he had no idea how I split some of the stuff I do  I showed him the axe...he could not believe it.  The right tool makes a difference.  Highly, highly recommend the Fiskars.
My $0.02.


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## woodchiprookie (Feb 21, 2017)

Isocore FTW. On big damp hardwood nothing else I have comes close. I have a lighter Fiskars splitting axe which I like alot better but it has to be on dry softwood or it wont do it.


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## Jeffm1 (Feb 23, 2017)

chopp056 said:


> I have read a few threads about the fiskars but looking for comparison to some other axes or mauls.  I busted my grandads old maul last year and at the time just ran up to harbor freight to grab a 8# maul.  Been using this for about a year as I said an just not happy with it.  I understand you get what you pay for in most cases and it was under 20 bucks I believe.  The edge is just too fat and I feel this thing makes me work twice as hard.  I get a fair amount of bounce and partial splits and Im not exactly a small guy swinging this thing even targeting the grain on the rounds.  Anyways just looking to hear what you use and how you like it.  $100 for the stihl axe seems expensive but wouldnt mind hearing some personal experience with it, fiskars or anyting else


Get yourself a fiskars x27. You will never regret it. Ever.


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## oakridge (Feb 28, 2017)

This axe almost looks like it would take all the fun out of wood splitting.Expensive as in 300 bucks .


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## oakridge (Feb 28, 2017)

I don't have any of the newer Mauls ,I got a couple I inherited from my great uncle who was a WW2 vet.No brand names but they work .I have been looking into getting a newer Maul but undecided on which I would like to try.


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## woodchiprookie (Feb 28, 2017)

Isocore.


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## Dobish (Mar 13, 2017)

i pulled the fiskars out the other day to split a few little guys and it looked like someone use it to hack through a concrete wall. Edge is completely trashed... i guess I better get after it with the file....


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## woodchiprookie (Mar 13, 2017)

Yea. Nothin a file wont fix. And it doesnt have to be razor sharp either.


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## Dobish (Mar 13, 2017)

woodchiprookie said:


> Yea. Nothin a file wont fix. And it doesnt have to be razor sharp either.



yeah, i don't normally make a habit of beating the crap out of it.... now that I think about it, the last time I used it was on some black walnut that might have had a few nails in it....  that is why I shouldn't split by hand


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## fishki (Mar 13, 2017)

I have a Helko Vario on my amazon wish list. I like that I can just change handles easily if I break it, and it has an overstrike protector. 
Any one ever used one?


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## woodchiprookie (Mar 14, 2017)

No, but on several models from several manufacturers, you can't break the handle. If you do they replace it or even pay you. Wilton has 2 different weights of mauls & Fiskars has several splitting weight options also. I'm not a fanboi of any particular brand so it doesnt matter. The issue I have with the isocore is the weight. I would love to get ahold of a 6lb variation


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## neverbilly (Mar 14, 2017)

I like my Fiskars x27. I hate the Monster Maul, detest it! It just bounces too much, the x27 splits.


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## woodchiprookie (Mar 14, 2017)

I have the all black version of the x27. It doesn't split 24" ash like the isocore does. If I'm splitting smaller, softer, drier wood then yes I'll use it because it swings so much better


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## bboulier (Apr 4, 2017)

Fiskar's X27 is my tool of choice.


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## rowerwet (Apr 5, 2017)

oakridge said:


> This axe almost looks like it would take all the fun out of wood splitting.Expensive as in 300 bucks .



From those who have tried it, the axe really is only good for straight grained wood,  anything else it doesn't work


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## blacktail (Apr 8, 2017)

I bought this cheap, made in Mexico fiskars knock-off at Lowe's. I don't usually have anything too gnarly to split, but it does everything I want it to. 
	

		
			
		

		
	






Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk


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## esengi (May 8, 2018)

I've built a lot of things over the years besides a fire whilst in the bush. Fences, shelters, windbreaks, crude washstands and once helped build a small dock. I've used a bunch of different axes and within my collection are a few I really like. For a wilderness trip I carry an Estwing hatchet like here  in my daypack, a 28" 3 lb foresters style ax I got at a garage sale and a 24" tube frame bow saw from a hardware/camping supply store. The blade guard on the saw is a length of plastic tube with a slit and a couple 550 cord ties. A saw can be much more useful than an ax at times. On YouTube, there are a lot of interesting videos about comparing the quality of different axes, check out this video, I think it will not be superfluous.


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