# Magnum Countryside 3500p



## Mark_ms (Nov 17, 2012)

A friend of mine asked me to look at his stove, said it wasn't running right. When firing it up lazy flame and soot soon covered glass. Ok so we have an air flow issue.

 Unit was installed 3 years ago and _it has never been cleaned._

  I went to adjust the sliding damper on left side of stove and it would not budge, I sprayed it with WD40, used lithium grease, tapped it with a rubber mallet and swore at it a few times, it finally pulled out but was missing a small section where it apparently had broken, it was rusty indicating to me that it had been broken for a while and probably the section missing was preventing it from sliding out. Now  it will not go back in again probably due to the missing section or perhaps the manifold (?) may be warped.

  I removed the fire brick covering the back wall to access the 2 inspection ports on each side of the auger they too were rusty but did manage to get them off and when I did the ash was above the port holes! So now I know it really needs a deep cleaning.

  I have read the threads here on the mods regarding foil tape over the top holes of burnpot and over the airwash to increase airflow. Which I will try

  If I remove the combustion motor and then the manifold (?) will I have access to the channel the accepts the sliding damper? What would be a good high temperature lube to use once i get access to to damper channel?

Since the damper adjustment is manually operated what is the damper adjustment on the control panel? a potinetmeter (sp)?

Thanks,

Mark_ms


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## Bioburner (Nov 17, 2012)

The fuel speed also regulates exaust speed. To properly clean will need wire-coat hanger piece to go up from the ash drawer into the wall behind the firebrick-board threw the ash slide outs. Also run the wire around the wall from the round access holes. Removel of the exaust fan is a pain but may need to be done since not properly maintained. Stove could benefit from leaf blower treatment. I still maintain a couple of these stoves. Also will need to remove the fuel stirrer and grease the bushing that comes through from the right. Convection fan is easily removed for eviction of dust bunnies. I use never seize as it contains graphite.




Mark_ms[/quote]


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## DexterDay (Nov 17, 2012)

The standard Countryside needs no Mods done to it. The mod threads are all on the Baby Countryside. 

Clean the stove well, remove the.combustion blower and see how to slide the damper back and in. This stove is a Much Better Burner than the Baby. I have a friend with the Baby Countryside and one with the 3500 Countryside. Night and Day difference. 

The 3500 can run with the damper almost closed (pushed in is closed/pull out is open).

So get it clean, get the slider back in (if its only a small chunk, I wouldn't really worry), clean the.combustion blower vanes, oil the motors, and fire it up. They burn like champions. The only thing missing from this stove, to make it a Great stove, is an ignitor. Other than that, its one of the better burning stoves out there. Just gotta keep it clean.


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## Bioburner (Nov 17, 2012)

Here is a picture of exaust slide that is modified for a bit less air and ease of operation. Was told to do this by AES. This slide is from a retired 2003 that survived my house fire and was run till last year.


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## Mark_ms (Nov 17, 2012)

Dexterday and Bioburner,
Thank you for the info, I am going back in a little bit to take apart the combustion fan. I take it that the combustion fan is a varible speed fan depending fuel feed.
If I take off combustion fan and housing will I be able to see into the section that the sliding damper resides? 
Biofuel the damper you showed is almost exactly like the one he has. My thought on the missing piece was that it wouldn't make too much difference either.
dexterday thanks for the heads up on the mods not being needed.

mark_ms


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## SmokeyTheBear (Nov 17, 2012)

When you get through with the torture devices in all of those orifices that give access to places with ash, do a bit of tapping on the firebox wall if they are made of steal this will loosen up some more ash, then attach a leaf blower to the venting and let it run for several minutes while you do more thumping and poking.

Hey he might as well do a really deep cleaning right?

.


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## Bioburner (Nov 17, 2012)

Heres a pic of the exaust slider slot. Should be able to clean with a rat tail, or flat needle file.There is a pellet pot that is deeper and does not use stirrer but you have to scoop out everyday, quite verse less work


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## BlackIce36 (Nov 18, 2012)

Thanks so much for posting pictures of the exhaust slide and slot! I bought a used stove and couldn't figure out why I was getting low heat and high fuel use. I read the manual online and noticed I was completely missing the manual exhaust adjustment.  It wasn't until I saw your pictures that I realized that what I was told was a 'clean out tool' was actually the exhaust slider removed from the unit. ... i just wish I would have came across this thread 40 bags of pellets ago...  thanks again!


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## Bioburner (Nov 18, 2012)

Picture is worth a thousand words. I told the owner of AES that a video of cleaning and operating the stove was needed. Probably afraid that it would curb sales if people saw how much work to keep clean.
Good luck


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## Mark_ms (Nov 18, 2012)

Bioburner,
Thanks for pic on damper slider, I was able to clean it out using wire brush and elbow grease and now it shuts completely (less missing corner section).
I put everything back together last pm and going back today to retighten all the screws and fire it up.
I could not believe the amount of ash buildup in combustion chambers and in channel between chamber and combustion fan and out to exhaust over 3 years. I wish i took pics but it did happen!
Owner says he always on startup on heat setting 1 and not 3 as per owners manual any thoughts?


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## DexterDay (Nov 18, 2012)

Setting 3 helps to get the stove up to temp? If the POF isn't satisfied, then the stove goes into shutdown.

If he has been getting away with level 1, maybe its because of the airflow issues and ash build up. With a clean stove that breathes well, he may need 3. I would start it, per the manual.


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## Bioburner (Nov 18, 2012)

Like Dexter said there is a snap disc that needs to be satisfied in a couple minutes otherwise the stove wants to shut down. If the fire starts to die before its satisfied one can turn the stove off momentarly then back on resetting the timer. If the room is real cool you may have to do this. Also the manual suggests running the stove on high (10 minutes or so) and with the manual damper out to help flush out the ash in the stove daily. Have to find a manual to make sure on how often. This will help to keep the stove cleaning chore reasonable.


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## Mark_ms (Nov 18, 2012)

BB and DD I will start it up per manual,  I think Dexter is right he got away with starting up on setting 1 due to ash build up.
The unit is a basement install and is cold and damp, which explains the rust that I have found in cleaning. 
Will get back later...


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## Mark_ms (Nov 18, 2012)

Went back today double checked everything  retightend bolts and screws, combustion area is empty, combustion and convection motors cleaned ash pan is empty, fresh pellets  in burn pot.
Fired it up flame is more active then previous startup but still seems to be on the lazy side. Convection fan did not come on initially, it did come on 2nd start up. Pumps out heat through middle of airflow cooler on sides (maybe I missed section on left and right side of heat exchangers)
There are 2 sets of holes (3L3R) below door and above ashpan they were blowing cool air out,looked in manual but does not say what these are.
Ashpans were closed, tried adjusting manual airflow but no noticeable change in flame.
I don't think I missed anything in clean out or reassembling in fact I had no spare parts
What have I missed??


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## Bioburner (Nov 18, 2012)

Changing the manual draft should make a major swing in flame. Something is still plugged. I just got done working on a stove. I guess I should have shot  some pics.


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## Mark_ms (Nov 18, 2012)

Bioburner said:


> Changing the manual draft should make a major swing in flame. Something is still plugged. I just got done working on a stove. I guess I should have shot some pics.


Barely noticeable change in flame, but I mean just barely.
What do the holes I mentioned earlier do?
Pics would be good..
Rather frustrating to say the least...


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## DexterDay (Nov 18, 2012)

I agree. With the rod wide open, my buddies will almost Shoot pellets out of the pot  

Make sure the ash pan is sealed well, ash trap doors are sealed well, and door gasket is good 	(test with dollar bill).  

Those small holes you see should be sucking air in. As they are for the airwash.

If its not a gasket, then I agree with BioBurner. Its still got a plug somewhere.


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## Bioburner (Nov 18, 2012)

Those holes are part of the exchanger system. Usually not much hot air though unlike a lot of us here


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## Mark_ms (Nov 18, 2012)

New gaskets on door passes $$ test, new gasket on ashpan door and is tight.
Holes are blowing cool air and at a fairly good clip.
Ashtrap door (slides) should they have gaskets too? if so where should they be?


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## Bioburner (Nov 18, 2012)

Did you by chance clean the air intake behind the stove? Found a huge mouse nest in my Uncles stove that choked the stove. What a stinky mess but stove ran great after we cleaned the vermin out. Flapper has been known to stick closed as well.


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## Mark_ms (Nov 18, 2012)

I did stick a brush in there, seemed clear..but Flapper?? how far in would it be???


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## Bioburner (Nov 18, 2012)

It's just inside the inlet pipe about 2  1/2 inches. Should be able to push in and look to see if everything is clear.


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## Mark_ms (Dec 2, 2012)

Round 2
Rechecked combustion chamber with inspection mirror found more ash got that out.
No flapper found in air intake can see to the end of air intake that chamber was clear.
I reamed out the flue again, LBT is not an option just yet (we don't have one)


Restarted still have issue with airwash holes on left and right side blowing out cold air.

I am wondering if maybe at this point there may be three issues, 
1) no flapper in air intake and no OAK
2) motor does not seem to have much change in RPM between settings 1,2, and 3 possibly due to overworking itself from 3 years of non-cleaning?
3) Venting from exhaust we have @12 inch horizontal run, 5 foot vertical straight run then 17 foot horizontal run (underneath deck) with very little change of rise terminating 2 feet beyond end of deck with 45 degree downward exit, no cap of anykind

Any more thoughts? ideas?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 2, 2012)

17 Feet of horizontal vent is a major no no (I do hope that is at least 4" vent and not 3" stuff), I suspect the maker of the stove says no more than 4' of horizontal, further there should be at least a 17 x 0.25 inch  (4.25") rise from end to end.

I see the tools of stove torture in your immediate future starting with brushes (various), vacuums, small vacuum tools and flexible hoses, air compressor, leaf blower (final suck out and then at least once per ton there after).  Combustion blower gasket, etc... while you are in there cleaning crud out check the gaskets and replace any that fail the dollar bill test.


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## Mark_ms (Dec 2, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> 17 Feet of horizontal vent is a major no no (I do hope that is at least 4" vent and not 3" stuff), I suspect the maker of the stove says no more than 4' of horizontal, further there should be at least a 17 x 0.25 inch (4.25") rise from end to end.
> 
> I see the tools of stove torture in your immediate future starting with brushes (various), vacuums, small vacuum tools and flexible hoses, air compressor, leaf blower (final suck out and then at least once per ton there after). Combustion blower gasket, etc... while you are in there cleaning crud out check the gaskets and replace any that fail the dollar bill test.


Smokey,
I have replaced all the gaskets in hopper and doors they pass $$ test, combustion motor gaskets have been replaced stove has been cleaned, other than leafblower thingy.
Venting is 4 inch and is dealer install (although they are no longer in business) I agree it is a very long run........


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 2, 2012)

Good, now how much crud was in the stove?

As for the horizontal run It is an excessively long run.  

Have you disconnected and brushed out that run?

There isn't usually much change in rpms between low end settings, it ramps from 1 to the highest setting in proportion to the change in feed rate, the low end is frequently at least 80% of full speed (depends upon the stove).


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## Bioburner (Dec 2, 2012)

There should be a good increase of rpm of exaust motor speed. Should not be a failure of it this young in life but neglect can catch up to various things. Flap in intake  was to keep smoke etc from entering house  if power failure were to occur and not enough natural draft. That pipe run is a bit much with the two elbows. Will try and take a couple more pictures tomorrow showing a typical ash hangout and try to clarify holes you are taking about. See if I can find a manual to check pipe run maximums.


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## Bioburner (Dec 3, 2012)

Pics of your three holes? Are just to move air from front of stove if they are the ones you are talking about. Pic with marker pointing to a commonly missed channel that has to be accessed from ash pan area that can be seen from the hole behind the fireboard. Exaust fan for lurkers to see that this fan can suck a good amount of fines etc through the windings and cause failure if not maintained regularly. I could not find this AM a manual to check max exaust runs. I took out a stove a couple years ago that had as much 3 inch without to much problems but most of it was inside and did not have a chill effect to cause condensate. House was being sold and owner needed it gone per realator.


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## Mark_ms (Dec 4, 2012)

Bioburner,
Yes those are the 3 holes I mentioned earlier, they do blow cold air when stove is fired up.
The second pic I see is taken on left hand side, I have looked for those holes from up top have removed the ash pan and looked and felt around but have not found them.Did you have to remove a part of the stove just past the ash slide to access hose holes?? (pic 2)
When I remove the firebrick I did find the 2 inspection ports and that was my access for cleaning the chamber, as I said in previous post the ash was well above the ports I am guessing there was 6-8 inches of ash buildup.

I did see a Technical/informational bulletin from Countryside regarding possible premature failure of combustion motor due to lack of maintenance


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## Bioburner (Dec 4, 2012)

There is slides outside of the stove on both sides of the stove for dropping ash into ash bin and accessing chambers behind main chamber shown pic 1.
Also there is a pair of small slides inside the stove for access to rear chambers shown in picture 2 and 3.


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## nawie (Dec 5, 2012)

I don't post much on this forum, but I have one of these stoves and can maybe help a little.
Those holes that blow cold air are normal at least for me, they have done that since day 1. I honestly don't know what they are for, but I can tell you that on my stove that is normal.
The air normally blows hotter from the center of the heat exchanger tubes. When cleaning the stove did you vacuum the tubes in the top of the firebox? I use a small wire brush and a bottle brush once in a while to get the buildup of ash off them.This can help a little as caked on ash insulates the tubes and reduces efficiency. The built in scraper doesn't do the greatest job keeping them clean, but a regular vacuuming helps alot.
I would also say that it seems normal to me that you don't notice a huge difference in blower speeds on different heat settings. I can barely tell any difference on mine and it has been this way since new as well.
The room air blower should not come on immediately when trying to light the stove. Only the exhaust fan comes on until the proof of fire switch is up to temp, then the room blower kicks on. This can take 5 or 6 mins. Always use setting 3 so the stove gets up to temp quickly and activates to POF switch, then turn it down if you need to.
Check out the website tech section. lots of good documents here if you haven't seen this already.Look in the Magnum Countryside folder.

http://www.americanenergysystems.com/owners-manuals.cfm

Hope this helped some,
Paul


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## Mark_ms (Dec 6, 2012)

Bioburner,
Thanx for pics of "hidden holes" I will check those out when I go back this weekend.

nawie,
I did get the tubes on the top, vacuumed scraped, wire brush etc. I have tried to impress upon my neighbor about how important a clean stove is and that regular maintenance is really a good thing otherwise we run into problems like this.


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## Bioburner (Dec 6, 2012)

Once one gets into the regimen it isn't bad. I used to do it weekly and from time I shut it down, let it cool a bit then cleaned the stove out, and relit was about 45 minutes. Things were warm but not hot. Also , daily turn the stove up to high and pull the draft out for 5-10 minutes helps keep the ash buildup behind the main chamber alot cleaner reducing the weekly chore considerably.


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## Mark_ms (Dec 8, 2012)

Bioburner,
I managed to remove the 2 slides and there was some ash but not a whole lot of ash...
I emailed Countryside and the 17 horizontal run is a bout 12 ft too long, coupled with the fact that an OAK is required. Unfortuanatley due to there being a deck on 3 sides of the house and no way to access through the 24 inch 100 year old foundation, they are dead in the water as far as running one in the basement is concerend. They have a 2 propane inserts in the house I recommended to the to replace at least one of them with a pellet insert.

Guess what I got for all my time??? The last 5 Saturdays working 2-5 hours......One ton of Dry Creeks YES!! 

Thank you all for your help..Bio thanx for the pics!!


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## Bioburner (Dec 8, 2012)

A newer generation of pellet stove will make for a happier home owner. An oak is recommended yes but considering the age of the home ehh. I know of several that use stoves in the garage to dry the spaces sucking the air off the floor. One has a nicer garage than most peoples home. So are they going to ask for your help in getting and installing another stove?


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## Mark_ms (Dec 8, 2012)

Bioburner said:


> A newer generation of pellet stove will make for a happier home owner. An oak is recommended yes but considering the age of the home ehh. I know of several that use stoves in the garage to dry the spaces sucking the air off the floor. One has a nicer garage than most peoples home. So are they going to ask for your help in getting and installing another stove?


 
 Basically they put the stove in to warm the Library floor from below and keep the dampness out of basement.They would be better of putting an insert in the Library (there is a propane heater insert there now. I did leave brochures for both Harmon inserts. I get the feeling that The Mrs has had it with the pellet lifestyle, I tried to explain that they did have a bad experience from the get-go with what the bought and paid for (a crappy & improper install). We shall see..but we can't let those Dry Creeks sit around too long can we??


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## Bioburner (Dec 8, 2012)

It's hard to talk pellets in a library if she has to clean. Dust from the ash, dust from the pellets etc,etc.


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