# routine for splitting wood with a maul



## szumbrun (Nov 4, 2010)

This past week I split my first ever piece of wood by hand using an old homemade
maul that my dad has had around since I was a kid. It's fairly heavy, has a big triangular
wedge on the end and looks to be homemade since the weld lines are all messy and the 
pipe attached is just a regular old thick pipe.  

Anyway, my aim has improved since starting, but I'm still working out a good routine for cutting.
With every split the two pieces go flying in different directions and I spend so much time going
to get each piece half way across the yard to setup again.  

For splitting a lot of wood it seems like you have to do it with some barriers on either side of you
to cut down on chasing wood constantly.  Is this what people do?


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## dafattkidd (Nov 4, 2010)

Hey,

I'm new to this too.  I saw this video and I am yet to do it.  It seems like the best way to split wood by hand.  --I am far from a pro at this, but this video seems to be a pretty good way to do split wood by hand with the least amount of work.


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## szumbrun (Nov 4, 2010)

That video is awesome. Thanks.  What a great idea!


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## maplewood (Nov 4, 2010)

I'm still chasing.  
But I agree the tire trick seems to have some merit, for some sized pieces.  I just wish they would show the occasional 18" long, 15" diameter knotty, twisted yellow birch once in a while, instead of their 14" long 8" diameter softwood....

Here's my #2 son Joel, his girlfriend Jessica and my dad helping split wood last summer.  (I was taking the pic.)  Jessica is either stacking, or helping to set up blocks for Joel to re-split.  Dad is tapping a wedge through a nasty piece of birch with my fibreglass handle maul.


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## CountryBoy19 (Nov 4, 2010)

maplewood said:
			
		

> Jessica is either stacking, or helping to set up blocks for Joel to re-split.



Idk, it looks to me like she is thinking, "I'm not touching that wood stuff." She is dressed far to nice to be working hard.


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## homebrewz (Nov 4, 2010)

The girl in the picture is thinking "seriously??" 

Anyway, +1 on the tire method. Whenever I show it to anybody they think its the greatest idea since the maul. If you tend to split smaller rounds an old ATV tire works well. They're a little taller too. You can also cut into one of the sidewalls to make flaps for bolting to the chopping block.


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## mayhem (Nov 4, 2010)

The maul you're using is not homemade...its called a Monster Maul and is quite good for splitting, though heavy to swing.  The sloppy welds are normal for all the one's I've ever seen.

For splitting, you can either use the tire method (or bungee cord or whatever) or chase the wood down.  I just chase the stuff, but rarely do I ever have to go more than one or two steps to get it...its a very rare piece that really goes flying...anything thats small and light enough to go that far is very likely small enough that I don't need to split it any further.  If your splits are going that far, you're hitting the rounds with way more force than you need to use.  You'll learn how to adapt your swing power and improve accuracy over time...there is no other way to do this other than to do it.

Once you split a few pieces up, you'll have a mound on either side of your splitting area and you won't have anything flying very far anyway.


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## quads (Nov 4, 2010)

szumbrun said:
			
		

> This past week I split my first ever piece of wood by hand using an old homemade
> maul that my dad has had around since I was a kid. It's fairly heavy, has a big triangular
> wedge on the end and looks to be homemade since the weld lines are all messy and the
> pipe attached is just a regular old thick pipe.
> ...


Give it another month or two and you won't have that problem anymore.  ;-)  Here is my method:


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## firefighterjake (Nov 4, 2010)

Glad to see you're still here Quads . . . I've missed reading your posts and seeing your pics.


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## lukem (Nov 4, 2010)

I split everything by hand.  I haven't tried the tire method so I can't comment.

What I usually do is set up some rounds (cut side up/down) and build a little three-sided "fence".  Place the round I'm spitting in the center of the fence and stand on the open side.  It keeps chunks from flying everywhere and, if you get those pieces that won't stand on their own, you have something to lean them up against.  Once splitting is done, split the "fence".


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## cre73 (Nov 4, 2010)

Tire method for sure. Screw it down to a big stump and you are good to go. Will double your productivity. For the hard to split pieces that is what the saw is for.


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## billb3 (Nov 4, 2010)

You don't have your trusting splitting partner hold the split upright  and together for you while splitting ?


They don't get far once the pile on each side is big enough.

I use wedges most of the time. Just have to chase a wedge every now and then.
But I've split between stacks.

A stack of small tires works fairly well.


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## quads (Nov 4, 2010)

firefighterjake said:
			
		

> Glad to see you're still here Quads . . . I've missed reading your posts and seeing your pics.


Thanks!  Still around, checking in everyday.  I don't cut wood during October and November hunting seasons.


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## mrplow (Nov 4, 2010)

My father in law has the best method I've ever seen for splitting.  He takes 5-12 rounds (depending on the size) and arranges them, flat side up, in a circular bunch so there's no room between them.  You want the bunch to be about 4' across, depending on your reach.  You want it to be small enough that you can strike the center round without overreaching.   Then, take a 10-12' piece of rope (something cheap, but at least 1/2" diameter) and tie it around the whole pile about 1/3 from the top, and cinch it up.  Then whack away.  You can split the entire bunch without resetting one piece of wood.  Also, you won't have a problem with your maul hitting the ground, because the other wood in the bunch usually stops the maul.  This also worked well with larger rounds that required a wedge, you just have to pry the round apart when removing the wedge, so it doesn't slam shut on your hands.

If your wife is helping stack, you can set up one bunch, split that, then move on to the next group and call her out to stack the first batch.  Depending on the wood and your personal level of fitness, you may be able to finish the second batch just as she finishes stacking the first, then go back to it.  

Using this method, the biggest issue is that I got winded after 30 or 40 nonstop swings and had to slow down.  I was using the Fiskars SS (first weekend trying it out, very impressive), so i assume that I would've lasted even less time using a heavier maul.  Also, the Fiskars is so sharp that I accidentally cut through the rope on a couple occasions.

I'll post pictures the next time I do it.


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## szumbrun (Nov 4, 2010)

mayhem said:
			
		

> The maul you're using is not homemade...its called a Monster Maul and is quite good for splitting, though heavy to swing.  The sloppy welds are normal for all the one's I've ever seen.



I think you're right. I looked it up and it looks like I've got a well worn Monster Maul.   I also believe that part of my problem is chopping wood that's already the right size to try to get something closer to timber size using the maul.  I find it very ineffecient using the regular small axe to get timber pieces to get the fire going.


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## szumbrun (Nov 4, 2010)

> Give it another month or two and you won't have that problem anymore.  ;-)  Here is my method:



Ha ha. I'll have to remember to set my wood up all around the yard before the first snow.


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## Kenster (Nov 4, 2010)

mrplow said:
			
		

> I was using the Fiskars SS (first weekend trying it out, very impressive), so i assume that I would've lasted even less time using a heavier maul.  Also, the Fiskars is so sharp that I accidentally cut through the rope on a couple occasions.



Mr. Plow.  You should go back and check the owners' manual for your Fiskars.  You'll learn that when you accidentally slice through that rope with the SS, all you have to do is lean the SS against the nearest split and go take a break.  When you come back you'll find the rope has almost magically repaired itself and you won't even be able to detect where the splice was made.  Such is the wonder of the Fiskars!


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## mrplow (Nov 4, 2010)

Kenster said:
			
		

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Ugh.  always my problem, i should've read the instructions. =)


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## mayhem (Nov 4, 2010)

szumbrun said:
			
		

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Yep, this sounds like part of your problem...if you're using a monster maul to make kindling, you're going to be chucking some of it really far.  Anything 6" or smaller I usually split with an axe or leave it alone and burn it as is.  Bigger stuff gets the maul.  If you're having trouble chopping small wood with your axe, you've got something wrong there...dull axe, not enough force...something.


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## szumbrun (Nov 4, 2010)

How do you efficiently shave off kindling from the side of wood using an axe?  Right now I sort of try to keep the wood steady with my foot on top and hack at the side until i'm frothing at the mouth.  Eventually I will loose some toes this way.


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## CTYank (Nov 4, 2010)

quads said:
			
		

> Give it another month or two and you won't have that problem anymore.  ;-)  Here is my method:



Love to see a shiny 6-pounder like that- speaks volumes.

Got a couple approaching that shine here, and an 8-pounder I'm working the rust off.


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## Backwoods Savage (Nov 4, 2010)

Please do not take this wrong folks but I really find it hard to believe what some folks do when splitting wood. I've split lots of wood by hand with both axe and splitting maul. Really tough stuff I used sledge and wedges. I will admit I tried the tire thing as did both of my sons. The tire got thrown out fast. We never even considered tying some logs together to split. All this takes time and I agree, time is not necessarily a big issue here, but why not just stand the log up and whack it with the splitting maul? Pieces flying across the yard? I have no idea what you are doing to cause this as I've never experienced it. 

Simply put, I'd just stand a log up and hit the danged thing with axe or maul. If it needed to be split again, simply turn it or move the body around to the right angle and hit it again. Job done. Methinks many are making this to be much harder work than it needs to be. We also never placed the log onto anything except the ground. I tell folks to not lift every log onto a hydraulic splitter because it makes no sense to be continually lifting this stuff but here you are lifting every piece onto a splitting block or placing it inside a tire or tying a rope around several logs etc., etc.

KISS. Stand the log up and hit the thing. If you have trouble with your aim, practice; change the way you swing. Guide the maul instead of driving it. Don't make this any harder than it needs to be.


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## szumbrun (Nov 4, 2010)

I agree with your philosophy totally.  The pieces really do fly across the yard -- probably 15 ft or so from the block.  Like I mentioned earlier, I think it's from splitting pieces that are too small and maybe hacking a little too hard.


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## mrplow (Nov 4, 2010)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> Please do not take this wrong folks but I really find it hard to believe what some folks do when splitting wood. I've split lots of wood by hand with both axe and splitting maul. Really tough stuff I used sledge and wedges. I will admit I tried the tire thing as did both of my sons. The tire got thrown out fast. We never even considered tying some logs together to split. All this takes time and I agree, time is not necessarily a big issue here, but why not just stand the log up and whack it with the splitting maul? Pieces flying across the yard? I have no idea what you are doing to cause this as I've never experienced it.
> 
> Simply put, I'd just stand a log up and hit the danged thing with axe or maul. If it needed to be split again, simply turn it or move the body around to the right angle and hit it again. Job done. Methinks many are making this to be much harder work than it needs to be. We also never placed the log onto anything except the ground. I tell folks to not lift every log onto a hydraulic splitter because it makes no sense to be continually lifting this stuff but here you are lifting every piece onto a splitting block or placing it inside a tire or tying a rope around several logs etc., etc.
> 
> KISS. Stand the log up and hit the thing. If you have trouble with your aim, practice; change the way you swing. Guide the maul instead of driving it. Don't make this any harder than it needs to be.



For me it's a question of effort expenditure.  I found that tying them together meant that I could spend almost all my effort on actually splitting the wood (the part I enjoy), and not as much effort resetting it for the next split (the part I don't enjoy).  As for tying a rope around it, this takes a grand total of about 10 seconds.

Then again, i'm not selling anything, so do it however you like.


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## quads (Nov 4, 2010)

Ah, so it's kindling your splitting with a Monster Maul.  That's why you're having trouble.  Here is how I split kindling:


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## Backwoods Savage (Nov 4, 2010)

Very little effort expended. Nice going quads.


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## quads (Nov 4, 2010)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> Please do not take this wrong folks but I really find it hard to believe what some folks do when splitting wood. I've split lots of wood by hand with both axe and splitting maul. Really tough stuff I used sledge and wedges. I will admit I tried the tire thing as did both of my sons. The tire got thrown out fast. We never even considered tying some logs together to split. All this takes time and I agree, time is not necessarily a big issue here, but why not just stand the log up and whack it with the splitting maul? Pieces flying across the yard? I have no idea what you are doing to cause this as I've never experienced it.
> 
> Simply put, I'd just stand a log up and hit the danged thing with axe or maul. If it needed to be split again, simply turn it or move the body around to the right angle and hit it again. Job done. Methinks many are making this to be much harder work than it needs to be. We also never placed the log onto anything except the ground. I tell folks to not lift every log onto a hydraulic splitter because it makes no sense to be continually lifting this stuff but here you are lifting every piece onto a splitting block or placing it inside a tire or tying a rope around several logs etc., etc.
> 
> KISS. Stand the log up and hit the thing. If you have trouble with your aim, practice; change the way you swing. Guide the maul instead of driving it. Don't make this any harder than it needs to be.


+1 word for word.


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## willworkforwood (Nov 5, 2010)

quads said:
			
		

> Backwoods Savage said:
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Up until the middle of this Summer, I would also have added +1 to what was said above by the 2 Kings.  I was 100% the same.  But I kept on thinking about the tire thing, and try to be open to ideas from others.  So one day I hauled out 2 tires - a 14 and a 16, and dropped one onto a big round.  Gotta admit I was sold on the spot.  The key for me is speed - I don't want any wasted motion.  Without the tire, things don't "fly away", but some do tip over and need to be reset, and each reset takes extra time.  One thing that makes the tire work for me is not lifting the round into the tire - I just drop one or both of the tires over a round (or a quartered larger round, or 2-3 smaller ones).  That only takes a few seconds.  Now everything stays upright until the whole thing is split - no resets.  A new trick for an old dog.


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## quads (Nov 5, 2010)

willworkforwood said:
			
		

> Up until the middle of this Summer, I would also have added +1 to what was said above by the 2 Kings.  I was 100% the same.  But I kept on thinking about the tire thing, and try to be open to ideas from others.  So one day I hauled out 2 tires - a 14 and a 16, and dropped one onto a big round.  Gotta admit I was sold on the spot.  The key for me is speed - I don't want any wasted motion.  Without the tire, things don't "fly away", but some do tip over and need to be reset, and each reset takes extra time.  One thing that makes the tire work for me is not lifting the round into the tire - I just drop one or both of the tires over a round (or a quartered larger round, or 2-3 smaller ones).  That only takes a few seconds.  Now everything stays upright until the whole thing is split - no resets.  A new trick for an old dog.


But isn't it kind of a hassle to drag a tire around in the woods with you?  I guess I would try it, but I don't have a lot of room to carry one on my trailer and/or ATV.  This old dog is all for learning new tricks!  Besides, I really don't have any trouble with the wood flying anywhere either, but I do get sick of it tipping over sometimes.  I'm not sure a tire would improve upon my splitting enough to compensate for the space it will occupy on the trailer.  

Here is a video of what I am talking about: (note how the four splits tip over)


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## ecocavalier02 (Nov 5, 2010)

i split a lot of wood by hand. just get one piece at a time here and then split it. i agree i think the tire thing would be a pia. i just get in a rythm and start wacking away


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## mayhem (Nov 5, 2010)

szumbrun said:
			
		

> How do you efficiently shave off kindling from the side of wood using an axe?  Right now I sort of try to keep the wood steady with my foot on top and hack at the side until i'm frothing at the mouth.  Eventually I will loose some toes this way.



Stand it up and keep splitting it in half with an axe.  Then cut each piece in half and then in half again until you have the size you want.  You need a smaller tool than you're using right now.  Get a good, really sharp axe or maul.  When I make kindling I just balance the split on top of my splitting stump and whack it...even if it won't stand on its own all you have to is balance it and yank your hand away when you start your swing...it'll stay vertical long enough for you to hit it with your axe or hatchet.  

DO NOT USE YOUR FOOT OR ANY OTHER ITEM THAT YOU DON'T WANT CHOPPED IN TWO TO HOLD UP A PIECE OF WOOD YOU WANT TO SPLIT!  Not only will you eventually lose part of your foot, but you're also giving away any ability you may have to impart some real force to your swing.

I wouldn't think you'd really need muhc kindling though unless you let your fire go out every day or so.  Personally after splitting a mountain of kindling only to find we went through it like water in the shower (my wife likes to use it because its very lgiht and she can put alot of it in the stove...when its already going) I decided to use those parrafin wax fire starter brick things.  I just pick up a couple boxes at Wally World for $10 apiece and cut them in half...each one will get my stove going from dead cold in short order and all I put in are some regular splits.  No kindling required.


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## willworkforwood (Nov 5, 2010)

quads said:
			
		

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Well Quads, that's an interesting thing you said there.  I've seen enough of your pics to know that you split and stack at different places all over your property - probably well spread out.  I work just the opposite because the yard around the house gets full Sun and a nice breeze, and I've only recently arrived at +2 years ahead.  So, I haul rounds from a distance, back closer to the house, and drop them exactly where they will be split and stacked.  So for me, the tires don't need to be transported.  Now, I can see your point about carrying a tire around on your ATV - it might not be a net gain for you like it is for me.  Maybe we're just splitting hairs here (sorry, that was really weak).  But I suspect we both enjoy the work, regardless of the details!


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## NH_Wood (Nov 5, 2010)

I was splitting wood with an older coworker about 3 days ago. He had a monster maul - very old and very heavy. He asked me to try it out - I did. It didn't seem to do any better than my Fiskars, but was so heavy, I'd likely not be able to split as long as I normally do (or at least until I got used to the weight). I then asked him to try my Fiskars........his eyes were quite wide after a few splits - I'm guessing he went home and ordered one.......Cheers!


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## willworkforwood (Nov 5, 2010)

NH_Wood said:
			
		

> I was splitting wood with an older coworker about 3 days ago. He had a monster maul - very old and very heavy. He asked me to try it out - I did. It didn't seem to do any better than my Fiskars, but was so heavy, I'd likely not be able to split as long as I normally do (or at least until I got used to the weight). I then asked him to try my Fiskars........his eyes were quite wide after a few splits - I'm guessing he went home and ordered one.......Cheers!


Whenever I read something like this, I'm thinking it's pilot error.  I'm not Quads-sized (5'8" 150lbs), 62 years old, and not especially strong for my size.  But I can split with an 8* maul all day long.  You need to always hold the maul right under (i.e. touching) the head with your right hand (for right handers).  That way you're only ever lifting around 8 lbs.  The stroke goes all the way over your head with fully split hands, and then only when you start bringing the stroke down does the right hand begin sliding down the handle.  When the maul head hits the round, the hands have come togeather.  Use only your hips and legs to drive the stroke - the arms only guide the maul.


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## Backwoods Savage (Nov 5, 2010)

I still don't understand the pieces flying all over the place. The only time I've had pieces fly away was when the dog would pick one up and carry it off.


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## Jags (Nov 5, 2010)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> I still don't understand the pieces flying all over the place. The only time I've had pieces fly away was when the dog would pick one up and carry it off.



I was helping a friend a few days ago that had gotten a delivery of firewood.  He was questioning the moisture content, so I said that I will bring my axe and meter and we shall see.

I grabbed a couple of the bigger splits and resplit (mind you, I have not hand split any quantity for a few years now).  He was standing where I knew he shouldn't be so I asked him to move.  2 pieces flew in opposite directions for 12-15 feet.  :red:  He now thinks I am He-Man, I thought I was stupid for wasting the extra energy that wasn't needed for the swing.

Moral of the story:  I really like my hydraulic splitter. 

Edit: oh, and beer...I really like beer.


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## Backwoods Savage (Nov 5, 2010)

Ya Jags, I like them too.


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## quads (Nov 5, 2010)

willworkforwood said:
			
		

> Well Quads, that's an interesting thing you said there.  I've seen enough of your pics to know that you split and stack at different places all over your property - probably well spread out.  I work just the opposite because the yard around the house gets full Sun and a nice breeze, and I've only recently arrived at +2 years ahead.  So, I haul rounds from a distance, back closer to the house, and drop them exactly where they will be split and stacked.  So for me, the tires don't need to be transported.  Now, I can see your point about carrying a tire around on your ATV - it might not be a net gain for you like it is for me.  Maybe we're just splitting hairs here (sorry, that was really weak).  But I suspect we both enjoy the work, regardless of the details!


Yes, that's true, I don't haul anything to where I will be stacking that day unless it has been split first.  I always feel like loading rounds is an extra step/extra handling.  But if you're hauling the rounds right to where you are going to stack the splits, and don't have to then reload the splits and haul the wood one more time, then I guess it's not really an extra step.

My stacks well spread out?  Some stacks are almost a mile from home and everywhere in between, if that qualifies...haha!


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## NH_Wood (Nov 5, 2010)

willworkforwood said:
			
		

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 This thing was not 8lb - not sure how heavy, but much heavier than my 8lb sledge. No matter how you stack it, just over 4lb beats 8lb or more any day in my book - especially since the Fiskars splits equally well from my experience. Cheers!


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## Captain Hornet (Nov 6, 2010)

I have about four years of  hardwoods all split and stacked and ready to go into the stove.  All was split by hand using a maul or sledge and wedges.  I found it's easiest for me if I just hit it and split it where it is.  I tried the tire idea and found it was a pain in the butt and didn't work for me.  If it falls down or moves from the rest of the split, I don't care.  I pick them all up and put them in the wagon.  I like to have the splitting area clear and I don't want them underfoot.  When the wagon is full we go to stack all of it, than back for more splitting.  The moving to the stack gives me a little break and that way I'm not working myself to a frazzle with a heavy maul.  Works for me and I don't have to mess with no stinking tire.   David.


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## K2Orion (Nov 6, 2010)

I haul my rounds to my stack. I split there on top of a 48" white oak round. I use a 16" E rated tire (a blow out from my trailer) and a fiskars SS. I mostly have red and white oak. Fairly straight grain but the knotty ones get put aside for the neighbors hydro splitter. I have my eyes open for a 20" low profile tire for more room with less weight. 
Small rounds fit right in there, for big ones I just flop the tire on the ground. It doesn't weigh more than a good sized round and I can toss it around with 1 hand since it is easy


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## szumbrun (Nov 6, 2010)

quads said:
			
		

> Ah, so it's kindling your splitting with a Monster Maul.  That's why you're having trouble.  Here is how I split kindling:




That's too easy. I actually broke my axe head off yesterday (not my maul) making kindling before I saw this. Didn't realize that it was such a gentle process. thanks.


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## szumbrun (Nov 6, 2010)

mayhem said:
			
		

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Thanks for the tips.  makes sense.  I also need to try some of those firestarter brick things that you're talking about.


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## Backwoods Savage (Nov 6, 2010)

One more point that I don't understand is that some folks state it takes more time without the tire because sometimes the log falls over and you then have to stand it up again. (After a bit of practice you won't have that problem very much). Well, does it not also take time to put the logs into the tire and then you also have to remove them? That seems to me a much bigger time and energy waster.


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## Kenster (Nov 6, 2010)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> One more point that I don't understand is that some folks state it takes more time without the tire because sometimes the log falls over and you then have to stand it up again. (After a bit of practice you won't have that problem very much). Well, does it not also take time to put the logs into the tire and then you also have to remove them? That seems to me a much bigger time and energy waster.



I haven't tried the tire yet but it makes a lot of sense to me.  Yes, you have to put the rounds into the tire and remove them but you don't have to constantly pick up halves, then quarters to split them again. You just split away til they are as small as you like, THEN remove them.  You lift them up there once, you remove them once and you're not constantly chasing down the splits as they fly or fall to the side of the stump.  It's the constant bending and stooping to pick them back up and put them back on the stump that gets my back.  

Take a swing.... Split the round in two....put down the maul.    Pick up the half-split off the ground and put it on the stump.  Pick up the maul.  Swing.  Split.  Pick the split off the ground and put it back on the stump.  Pick up the maul.  Swing, split, bend, lift.... you get the idea.

The tire keeps everything in place and eliminates all the bending/stooping/lifting.   At least, that's the theory, right?  

No method is wrong if it works for you!


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## Backwoods Savage (Nov 6, 2010)

Perhaps there are some folks who need to practice with their splitting skills. If you are bending to sit every piece upright and chasing splits that fly away, there is something you are doing that is working against you. I can not sit here and tell you what you are doing but for sure can say you must be doing something wrong. Simply put, I am certainly not the best nor am I perfect but I have never had to chase splits nor have I had to constantly stand each piece up after splitting. Watch quads video and you will see no wasted effort. That is how it should be done. 

One thing does come to mind and that is that perhaps most folks think all there is to splitting wood is to raise that axe or maul and hit it as hard as you can. If that is what you are doing, it is a good place to start to perfect your splitting technique. Let the tool do the work. That is the reason you have the tool, so let it to the big work. You guide or tell the tool what to do. Don't just swing away at each piece. And the smaller the piece, the easier you hit it.


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## Kenster (Nov 6, 2010)

I'm fairly new at this and have no doubts that my form could use some work.  But I don't see how you can take a 12-16 inch round, sit it on a stump and whack it with an 8 pound maul and not have at least one, or both of the splits fall off the stump.   I do realize that I may be whacking them too hard if they are flying away but I would like to learn the technique that would allow me to split the wood without the split falling over, and off of the stump.  

I'm certainly open to learning.


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## Backwoods Savage (Nov 6, 2010)

Kenster, you will find that neither quads nor myself sit a round up on a stump to split it. We leave them on the ground. No lifting! That is a lot of bending over and lifting that you do not need to do.


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## dave360up (Nov 7, 2010)

I like to get a big enough pile going around the log I am splitting on that the split pieces usually don't fall all the way to the ground.  Say a round needs to be quartered.  After the first split, each half can just be leaned back up for quartering, instead of picking it up all the way from the ground.  If things get too crowded I'll just push some pieces away with my foot.  Saves a lot of bending and no need for a tire.


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## gyrfalcon (Nov 7, 2010)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> Kenster, you will find that neither quads nor myself sit a round up on a stump to split it. We leave them on the ground. No lifting! That is a lot of bending over and lifting that you do not need to do.



But, but, but... doesn't that mean you're bending over when you're swinging the maul instead of standing up more or less straight?  I almost cried with relief when I was learning how to do all this the first time I got a big round and stood the pieces up on it to split them.

Also, maybe your ground is harder than mine, but until it freezes, splitting a piece when it's just standing on the ground means a good part of the energy of the swing just goes into driving the piece a half inch or whatever into the soil.

I'm not splitting big rounds all that often, but giganto splits that need to be split down further to go in my small stove, so hoisting them onto a splitting round isn't that big a deal (it's a small deal, but nowhere near as big a deal as the rounds you're doing in the video)

Also, I think how far the pieces go flying has at least partly to do with the wood.  Even a smaller piece of rock maple takes one heck of a whack just to get the blade to bite instead of bouncing off, and when you do hit it right, it really pops apart and goes flying.  Softer woods like Red Maple or Red Oak not so much.


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## Kenster (Nov 7, 2010)

That brings up a good point, Master.  Virtually all of my wood is oak and hickory.  Mostly water oak.   The hickory seems much harder.  When I give it a might whack it tends to send the splits flying off several feet or more.  If I don't hit it hard enough my 8 pounder barely made a dent in it.  The oak, on the other hand, stays pretty much in place when I split it.   Do different species of trees have different.... elasticity? (for lack of a better word?)


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## gyrfalcon (Nov 7, 2010)

Kenster said:
			
		

> That brings up a good point, Master.  Virtually all of my wood is oak and hickory.  Mostly water oak.   The hickory seems much harder.  When I give it a might whack it tends to send the splits flying off several feet or more.  If I don't hit it hard enough my 8 pounder barely made a dent in it.  The oak, on the other hand, stays pretty much in place when I split it.   Do different species of trees have different.... elasticity? (for lack of a better word?)



Heh.  Well, my child.... 

I'm not any kind of master at this, I've just asked one heck of a lot of questions on this forum over the last several years.  I figure if I keep pestering people here, I hope to become an Inferno before I die.

If Battenkiller is around and sees this, he can speak to your question with great specificity.  Best I can do is say some are definitely harder to split than others, but whether that's due to elasticity or some other factor, I don't really know.  In the hardwoods I have some experience with, it does seem that the higher BTU the wood is, and  therefore the denser, the harder it is to split-- with the exception of Rock Maple.  Rock Maple's saving grace is it has a nice straight grain, so when you do pop it a good solid one, it comes right apart.  But just why it's so tough to make a dent in I have no idea.  Hotter-burning stuff like Black Birch and Beech can often have very twisted and gnarly fibers, too, which is really a pain.  Although I've burned some Shagbark Hickory and Hophornbeam given to me by a generous neighbor, I haven't tried to split those, but they sure look like they'd be tough.

We've also had debates here from time to time about whether dry wood is easier or harder or just the same to split as green wood, and I wonder whether that's something that varies from wood to wood, too.  The country folks around here are sure convinced at least the Rock Maple is a lot harder to split when it's dry, and I tend to agree, though I haven't done a careful experiment with it to eliminate some of the variables.

Just a suggestion, btw-- if you never have, try a 6-pound maul if you can borrow one and see what you think.  After using a 6-er for a few years and getting comfortable with it, I got an 8-pounder thinking it would make splitting the tough ones easier and found that it doesn't.  It's just more weight to waste energy hoisting.  It's not the weight of the maul head or even muscle power that does the splitting, it's the momentum of the downswing.  My physics is rusty, but I believe that after a certain point, the extra weight actually adds very little to the applied force by the time it contacts the wood if you're swinging it right.


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## stevetford (Nov 7, 2010)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> Please do not take this wrong folks but I really find it hard to believe what some folks do when splitting wood. I've split lots of wood by hand with both axe and splitting maul. Really tough stuff I used sledge and wedges. I will admit I tried the tire thing as did both of my sons. The tire got thrown out fast. We never even considered tying some logs together to split. All this takes time and I agree, time is not necessarily a big issue here, but why not just stand the log up and whack it with the splitting maul? Pieces flying across the yard? I have no idea what you are doing to cause this as I've never experienced it.
> 
> Simply put, I'd just stand a log up and hit the danged thing with axe or maul. If it needed to be split again, simply turn it or move the body around to the right angle and hit it again. Job done. Methinks many are making this to be much harder work than it needs to be. We also never placed the log onto anything except the ground. I tell folks to not lift every log onto a hydraulic splitter because it makes no sense to be continually lifting this stuff but here you are lifting every piece onto a splitting block or placing it inside a tire or tying a rope around several logs etc., etc.
> 
> KISS. Stand the log up and hit the thing. If you have trouble with your aim, practice; change the way you swing. Guide the maul instead of driving it. Don't make this any harder than it needs to be.



  I'm glad you spoke up, I was reading this topic and thinking to myself I have never had any piece fly across the yard what am I doing wrong. All of my splits fall no more than 1" on either side of my maul when it hits the ground with some splits having to be manually pulled apart. Untill this wednesday I have been using a 8lb maul, but I also jumped on the bandwagon and bought a Fiskars super splitting axe. I'm poor so I never had the luxury of using a hydraulic splitter and split all my wood just as Backwoods Savage described, sit it on the ground and hit it till it splits.


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## gyrfalcon (Nov 7, 2010)

stevetford said:
			
		

> I'm glad you spoke up, I was reading this topic and thinking to myself I have never had any piece fly across the yard what am I doing wrong. All of my splits fall no more than 1" on either side of my maul when it hits the ground with some splits having to be manually pulled apart. Untill this wednesday I have been using a 8lb maul, but I also jumped on the bandwagon and bought a Fiskars super splitting axe. I'm poor so I never had the luxury of using a hydraulic splitter and split all my wood just as Backwoods Savage described, sit it on the ground and hit it till it splits.



Just curiously, what type of wood are you splitting?  The only stuff that flies several feet away for me is the Rock Maple.  Everything else politely just falls down a few inches away.

I'lm really going to have to spring for one of those Fiskars.  They just sound too wonderful to pass up.


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## pshking (Nov 7, 2010)

I like an old 6 pound maul that my dad bought back in the 70's. It has a little different shape to the head than today's maul's. 

On the bigger rounds, start on the edge and work your way in. It is easier to split along the natural cracks.


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## quads (Nov 7, 2010)

pking said:
			
		

> I like an old 6 pound maul that my dad bought back in the 70's. It has a little different shape to the head than today's maul's.
> 
> On the bigger rounds, start on the edge and work your way in. It is easier to split along the natural cracks.


That sounds just like my maul.  It's well over 30 years old, and had the same handle on it for over 25 now.  This winter I might just have to break down and put another new handle in it, it's getting kind of ragged after all these years.  If I had known that I would have to put a new handle in it every 25 years, well....darn it!  HA!

Here is another short sample video of how I split with it:


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## gyrfalcon (Nov 7, 2010)

pking said:
			
		

> I like an old 6 pound maul that my dad bought back in the 70's. It has a little different shape to the head than today's maul's.
> 
> On the bigger rounds, start on the edge and work your way in. It is easier to split along the natural cracks.



No doubt, but that only works for those of us with good enough hand-eye coordination to be able to reliably hit those cracks.  I've gotten fairly good at splitting with a maul over the last several years of practice, but coming close to hitting where I want to except by pure accident isn't something I can do, alas, and even an inch away from one of those cracks doesn't do the job.


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## stevetford (Nov 7, 2010)

gyrfalcon said:
			
		

> stevetford said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



  Mostly red/whit/pin oak some maple and very little hickory. Honestly my 8lb maul was all I needed but would really wear you out after a few hours. I read so many great reviews on the Fiskars and really liked the lightweight of it so I decided to buy one and find out for myself. I was a little worried about the short handle length but after using it these past few days I have not one complaint. This thing does everything my heavy maul does but without the workout. I can honestly split wood all day now and am actually looking forward to spring time when I begin splitting for next winter. There was no retailers anywhere near me who sold the Fiskars ss axe so I ordered it from Amazon and had it shipped to my door for $41.95


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## northwinds (Nov 7, 2010)

This is a long thread that I haven't read word-for-word, but I think a key point is that less can be more.  Quads is
hitting the wood in such a way that he's just barely getting through the round, and then it doesn't blast away in 
different directions.  No wasted effort.  On the first couple of hits through the bigger rounds, I make a point  not to 
split all the way through the wood.  Let a few fibers ( or more) hold the round together.  As one gets works around
the round, those partially split pieces usually fall away from the round anyway.  

The point that different wood behaves differently for hand splitting is a good one.  If I blast through red oak with a maul,
I can get the wood flying across my processing area.  With elm, it usually takes several hits anyway to get through a split 
with the fibers hanging on to dear life all the way through the cussing that's taking place.


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## Kenster (Nov 7, 2010)

From reading, and watching Quad's videos, I've come to the conclusion that I'm doing it all wrong.  I've always tried to power through the split - to drive the maul all the way through the round in one swing.  I'm thinking now that I'm relying too much on my own strength and not letting the maul earn it's keep.  I'll have to work on my form... once I get over this broken ankle.  (maybe before that if my Bride's not around to stop me.)


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## Backwoods Savage (Nov 7, 2010)

gyrfalcon said:
			
		

> Backwoods Savage said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Backwoods Savage (Nov 7, 2010)

Kenster said:
			
		

> That brings up a good point, Master.  Virtually all of my wood is oak and hickory.  Mostly water oak.   The hickory seems much harder.  When I give it a might whack it tends to send the splits flying off several feet or more.  If I don't hit it hard enough my 8 pounder barely made a dent in it.  The oak, on the other hand, stays pretty much in place when I split it.   Do different species of trees have different.... elasticity? (for lack of a better word?)



Yes, they do. But if those splits go flying, it has something to do with the way you are splitting. I've simply never had that problem so it is difficult to explain or know what you are doing or how you are splitting.


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## Backwoods Savage (Nov 7, 2010)

stevetford said:
			
		

> Backwoods Savage said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Steve, the only reason I purchased a hydraulic splitter is because of an injury from an accident forced the purchase. I always did enjoy splitting most wood. I would just do a bit at a time. Some days maybe split 5-10 logs, other days more and some days none at all. It is a great way to warm up during the winter months. Take the coat off and split a few rounds and you no longer are cold. 

As for the Fiskars axe, I've looked at them in the store. That was enough to convince me to not buy one! I guess it works well for some folks but I do not even want to try one.

btw, I do occasionally do some splitting by hand yet; it is just very minimal and usually in the woods when the log is just too heavy to lift. Then I split it using a splitting maul. I have never, nor do I ever intend to ever noodle a log.


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## Backwoods Savage (Nov 7, 2010)

quads said:
			
		

> pking said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




One thing that stands out about how quads handles the maul. I've seen videos on this forum that show someone splitting and notice they never change their hand position on the handle of the maul. Watch how quads will slide his hand up the handle to lift the maul and then as the swing starts, the hand naturally slides down towards the end of the handle. That is how it should be done and when folks learn to do this they will find they have been doing it the hard way and wonder why they haven't tried it this way before.

Thanks for the video quads.


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## Backwoods Savage (Nov 7, 2010)

gyrfalcon said:
			
		

> pking said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



gyrfalcon, while hand-eye coordination does come into play, we've found that those who have a hard time hitting where they want to are just madly swinging that maul as hard as they can. While you do need to supply some power, you also need to guide the tool rather than just try to power through. Practice and remember that you do not have to put all of your power into the swing. Again, watch quads and just imagine how much power he is supplying. I can guarantee he is not swinging with all of his might (with his size, the maul might end up in China!).


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## Backwoods Savage (Nov 7, 2010)

northwinds said:
			
		

> This is a long thread that I haven't read word-for-word, but I think a key point is that less can be more.  Quads is
> hitting the wood in such a way that he's just barely getting through the round, and then it doesn't blast away in
> different directions.  No wasted effort.  On the first couple of hits through the bigger rounds, I make a point  not to
> split all the way through the wood.  Let a few fibers ( or more) hold the round together.  As one gets works around
> ...




And you will also find that the power you supply to the tool can vary a lot depending upon the wood you are splitting. Again, this will come only through experience.

Again, I can't visualize how folks are making the splits fly all over the place...but I can imagine the cussing.


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## Backwoods Savage (Nov 7, 2010)

Kenster said:
			
		

> From reading, and watching Quad's videos, I've come to the conclusion that I'm doing it all wrong.  I've always tried to power through the split - to drive the maul all the way through the round in one swing.  I'm thinking now that I'm relying too much on my own strength and not letting the maul earn it's keep.  I'll have to work on my form... once I get over this broken ankle.  (maybe before that if my Bride's not around to stop me.)




Kenster, you are well on your way to doing some efficient splitting. When you buy a tool (maul or axe), you get that tool so you don't have to work as hard. Therefore, one needs to learn how to properly use the too. 

Now about that ankle, that sounds nasty. I hope you heal fast.


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## gyrfalcon (Nov 7, 2010)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> gyrfalcon, while hand-eye coordination does come into play, we've found that those who have a hard time hitting where they want to are just madly swinging that maul as hard as they can. While you do need to supply some power, you also need to guide the tool rather than just try to power through. Practice and remember that you do not have to put all of your power into the swing. Again, watch quads and just imagine how much power he is supplying. I can guarantee he is not swinging with all of his might (with his size, the maul might end up in China!).



That's a good point, Backwoods, and there's no doubt you're right.  However, that's not an issue in my case.  As a female not built for upper-body strength like you guys, I don't even have that option.  It took me about three ineffectual whacks the first time I picked up a maul to understand that I have to rely on the momentum of the swing rather than muscle power because that's something I simply don't have.  I've gotten more accurate with the tool as I've learned how to use it over the last several years (ie, I rarely miss a split altogether anymore...), but real precision requires a perceptual/coordination ability I just lack.  I suck at tennis, too.


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## Backwoods Savage (Nov 7, 2010)

gryfalcon, I did realize you are a female and therefore you can't have the upper body strength that most men have. One more reason to go with hydraulics! I suck at tennis too.


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## gyrfalcon (Nov 7, 2010)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> gryfalcon, I did realize you are a female and therefore you can't have the upper body strength that most men have. One more reason to go with hydraulics! I suck at tennis too.



Yeah, but the hydraulics are nowhere near as much fun.  I have no woodlot, etc., so I have to buy my firewood c/s/d, but with the very small stove have to split down further most of the splits I get.  Can't begin to tell you how much pleasure I get out of doing it, especially on cold winter days.  And as a profoundly lazy person who hates exercise for the sake of exercise, a couple hours a few times a week of whacking the firewood has been incredibly good for me physically.

I have noticed over the years that some of you Y-chromosome people try to use more muscle power to do stuff rather than thinking it through because you have that muscle power available.  The guy with the hammer thinks everything is a nail, yeah?  Can't tell you how much I sometimes envy that built-in easy strength.  But when you don't have a hammer, you have no choice but to figure out another way.


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## Backwoods Savage (Nov 7, 2010)

Well, I do think the hydraulic thing is fun! I was amazed because I did not think I would like it when I bought it but really fell in love with it within just a few minutes. Now that I've split a couple hundred cord, I still like it just as well. However, in your case, I do not think it would be wise to go with hydraulics because you are buying the wood. I would simply be unreasonable to buy a splitter in your case. 

I agree on the exercise. Much better than doing repetitious exercises in the house. In fact, I think the other word for aerobics is boring, or something like that. 

You are also correct on some of the men who think muscle power is the do-all. But the wise ones still figure things out so as not to have to use all that muscle power. Then there are injuries and age factors that cause you to reflect on how some things are done. No move of the "Don't force it. Just get a bigger hammer" ideas.


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## gyrfalcon (Nov 7, 2010)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> Well, I do think the hydraulic thing is fun! I was amazed because I did not think I would like it when I bought it but really fell in love with it within just a few minutes. Now that I've split a couple hundred cord, I still like it just as well. However, in your case, I do not think it would be wise to go with hydraulics because you are buying the wood. I would simply be unreasonable to buy a splitter in your case.
> 
> I agree on the exercise. Much better than doing repetitious exercises in the house. In fact, I think the other word for aerobics is boring, or something like that.
> 
> You are also correct on some of the men who think muscle power is the do-all. But the wise ones still figure things out so as not to have to use all that muscle power. Then there are injuries and age factors that cause you to reflect on how some things are done. No move of the "Don't force it. Just get a bigger hammer" ideas.



Oh, I agree the hydraulics are great fun, like any good machine.  But I'll take the cold, clean outdoor quiet punctuated by the smack of the maul and the feeling of the blood rushing through your body any day over the noisy, smelly, fussy fun of a machine doing all the work for me and slicing through tough wood like butter any day.  There are days when I really, really, really don't wanna go out there and do the work and have contemplated getting one of the smaller electric splitters, but once I drag myself out and start, I have a great time.

Aerobics, treadmills, forced marches around the block, all of it, yech.  If the energy expenditure doesn't actually result in something concrete accomplished after you're done, I can't make myself do it.


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## quads (Nov 7, 2010)

gyrfalcon said:
			
		

> That's a good point, Backwoods, and there's no doubt you're right.  However, that's not an issue in my case.  As a female not built for upper-body strength like you guys, I don't even have that option.  It took me about three ineffectual whacks the first time I picked up a maul to understand that I have to rely on the momentum of the swing rather than muscle power because that's something I simply don't have.  I've gotten more accurate with the tool as I've learned how to use it over the last several years (ie, I rarely miss a split altogether anymore...), but real precision requires a perceptual/coordination ability I just lack.  I suck at tennis, too.


In your case then, a lighter short handled tool might work better for you.  Something like a Fiskars might be just the thing.  My wife is kind of tiny.  Not that she ever helps with the firewood though, but one of the rare occasions that I got her to go out in the woods with me, I had her take a few swings with my maul.  She can't handle it, it is too much for her.  If she was ever inclined to split wood though, I would have her use one of my axes, or possibly get her a little Fiskars SS etc.  It would take her longer and more swings to split wood, but would make it possible for her, I think.

And I of course have a video of that too:


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## gyrfalcon (Nov 7, 2010)

quads said:
			
		

> gyrfalcon said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Oh, man.  Does your wife know you're posting video of her doing this while you laugh in the background?  Did you edit out the part where she turns around and whacks you a good one with the Fiskars?

After reading so many rave reviews of the Fiskars here, I'm intending to pick one up and give it a try when I have a few extra bucks to spare, but I confess I'm a bit dubious.  The shorter handle reduces the momentum of the swing I rely on to do the work, doesn't it?  I can certainly get greater accuracy if I choke up a bit on the maul handle, but then I can't generate enough force to make much of a dent most of the time because of the shorter swing.  It's the equivalent of a bunt in baseball, no? That's where the lack of muscle power really seems to come in for me.

Also, I note that even your tiny wife has to bend over to smack the split sitting on the ground.  Makes my back tired just watching it!


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## quads (Nov 7, 2010)

gyrfalcon said:
			
		

> Oh, man.  Does your wife know you're posting video of her doing this while you laugh in the background?  Did you edit out the part where she turns around and whacks you a good one with the Fiskars?
> 
> After reading so many rave reviews of the Fiskars here, I'm intending to pick one up and give it a try when I have a few extra bucks to spare, but I confess I'm a bit dubious.  The shorter handle reduces the momentum of the swing I rely on to do the work, doesn't it?  I can certainly get greater accuracy if I choke up a bit on the maul handle, but then I can't generate enough force to make much of a dent most of the time because of the shorter swing.  It's the equivalent of a bunt in baseball, no? That's where the lack of muscle power really seems to come in for me.
> 
> Also, I note that even your tiny wife has to bend over to smack the split sitting on the ground.  Makes my back tired just watching it!


Ha ha!  Oh yes, she knows.  Actually she watched me post it this time too.  We still laugh about the fight with her hat!  You should see some of the videos she takes of me, which fortunately you never will because she doesn't know how to post them!

I guess the shorter handle would depend on how heavy it is?  If it's lighter you can still swing it as fast with the short handle?  I don't know, but I do know that the short-handled axes I have, I do not like.  But maybe if I was my wife's height it would be ok?

I'm not sure why she was bending to use my maul.  I guess because she is afraid to take a full swing and is trying to 'tap' the round with it?  Or simply because the six pounds out on the end of the full length handle is just too heavy for her to lift up high enough and gain the momentum.  Anyway, we'll never know!


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## gyrfalcon (Nov 8, 2010)

quads said:
			
		

> Ha ha!  Oh yes, she knows.  Actually she watched me post it this time too.  We still laugh about the fight with her hat!  You should see some of the videos she takes of me, which fortunately you never will because she doesn't know how to post them!
> 
> I guess the shorter handle would depend on how heavy it is?  If it's lighter you can still swing it as fast with the short handle?  I don't know, but I do know that the short-handled axes I have, I do not like.  But maybe if I was my wife's height it would be ok?
> 
> I'm not sure why she was bending to use my maul.  I guess because she is afraid to take a full swing and is trying to 'tap' the round with it?  Or simply because the six pounds out on the end of the full length handle is just too heavy for her to lift up high enough and gain the momentum.  Anyway, we'll never know!



Sounds like you and your wife have a pretty nifty partnership there.

My physics is rusty, but I think the issue has to do with the length of the fulcrum (ie, from shoulder all the way to the business end) more than it does the effort put into the swing, but you may well be right.  I should stop farting around trying to figure this out in the abstract and just go get one and see, but I'm not in a place these days where I can take a flyer for 40 or 50 bucks on a new toy without a lot of inner debate.


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## pshking (Nov 8, 2010)

My wife tried to split some ash last year. She was not amused by my entertainment. I tried to provide support by saying how much of a workout she was getting, but she did not buy it. 

I can tell you that when I was a kid, I would have probably loved one of the Fiskars SS. My dad would have liked for me to have had one also.


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## gyrfalcon (Nov 8, 2010)

pking said:
			
		

> My wife tried to split some ash last year. She was not amused by my entertainment. I tried to provide support by saying how much of a workout she was getting, but she did not buy it.
> 
> I can tell you that when I was a kid, I would have probably loved one of the Fiskars SS. My dad would have liked for me to have had one also.



Geez, nobody likes to be laughed at when they're tentatively trying something new, y'know?  Most people don't even like to be watched while they're figuring out something new.  Show 'em the right stance so they won't whack their own feet, then go do something else nearby with your back turned for a while and let 'em embarrass themselves in private.

If you really want to get your ladies into this, start them off with a hatchet and a small (ie short) light-weight sledge splitting kindling.  You want to start people off with something they can succeed at, and then build from there.  That's how I started because it was the tools I had around.  Didn't take long to get a some comfort in dealing with chunks of wood and swinging the tools, and then see I needed something sturdier.  So I added a wedge.  That gave me more confidence, so I took the bull by the horns finally and got a maul.


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## quads (Nov 8, 2010)

gyrfalcon said:
			
		

> Sounds like you and your wife have a pretty nifty partnership there.
> 
> My physics is rusty, but I think the issue has to do with the length of the fulcrum (ie, from shoulder all the way to the business end) more than it does the effort put into the swing, but you may well be right.  I should stop farting around trying to figure this out in the abstract and just go get one and see, but I'm not in a place these days where I can take a flyer for 40 or 50 bucks on a new toy without a lot of inner debate.


Yep, we've been together for over 25 years and still enjoying every minute of it!  Her and I easily laugh at each other and ourselves.

I don't know much about physics.  I just go out and swing the maul and it splits the wood.  My wife can't.  And that's about where my knowledge of physics ends!  HAHA!


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## Jags (Nov 8, 2010)

gyrfalcon said:
			
		

> My physics is rusty, but I think the issue has to do with the length of the fulcrum (ie, from shoulder all the way to the business end) more than it does the effort put into the swing, but you may well be right.  I should stop farting around trying to figure this out in the abstract and just go get one and see, but I'm not in a place these days where I can take a flyer for 40 or 50 bucks on a new toy without a lot of inner debate.



I think you are doing OK with your physics, but may have forgotten a force or two.  One thing you don't mention is acceleration.  With the shorter handle, you will have a faster swing acceleration.  That does not completely compensate for total speed or mass, but it helps.

That being said, one thing I have noticed is that back when I used to split by hand, the tool itself had an effect on "flyers".  An axe would more readily send a split flying compared to a maul.  I think it may have something to do with head design, but dunno for sure.  Maybe a difference is speed compensation from a heavier maul to a lighter axe to gain the same energy?  Just sayin'


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## pshking (Nov 9, 2010)

Geez, nobody likes to be laughed at when they're tentatively trying something new, y'know?  Most people don't even like to be watched while they're figuring out something new.  Show 'em the right stance so they won't whack their own feet, then go do something else nearby with your back turned for a while and let 'em embarrass themselves in private.

If you really want to get your ladies into this, start them off with a hatchet and a small (ie short) light-weight sledge splitting kindling.  You want to start people off with something they can succeed at, and then build from there.  That's how I started because it was the tools I had around.  Didn't take long to get a some comfort in dealing with chunks of wood and swinging the tools, and then see I needed something sturdier.  So I added a wedge.  That gave me more confidence, so I took the bull by the horns finally and got a maul.[/quote]

I was not laughing at her trying to split the wood. She was laughing at herself, and it got to be funny. I was actually moving other pieces to split.


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