# 372xp rebuild/refurbish.



## clemsonfor (Aug 30, 2013)

OK my newest acquisition is a 372xp.  What I see is that the chain brake lever is busted on the top half,  as in gone.  The safety trigger on the top part of the handle is gone?? . Other than that it looks all there. 

Its not locked and has decent compression pulling rope. Maybe feels low. But I'm not sure how long since it was run?? 

Need to pull muff to look at P/C.


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## ScotO (Aug 30, 2013)

I just overhauled my 372XP, the case was trashed on it from a bucking spike incident.....
aftermarket parts are out there, and this case was a good fit, but it still has to get some field testing done before we will really know.....
Take your time, get a good clean spot on the bench ready, and if you need to, take pics of the break-down so you can remember how to put it all back together....


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## clemsonfor (Aug 30, 2013)

OK rebuild,  just turned into a Carb rebuild  Another runner.  

It just won't idle,  just dies. Not sure if I can fix it with just tuning I. Or not?   Will try the. L screw to see if that helps.  But will run wide open fine and everywhere in between. Just dies


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## ScotO (Aug 30, 2013)

clemsonfor said:


> OK rebuild, just turned into a Carb rebuild Another runner.
> 
> It just won't idle, just dies. Not sure if I can fix it with just tuning I. Or not? Will try the. L screw to see if that helps. But will run wide open fine and everywhere in between. Just dies


What I'd do is this. Bottom the "L" and "H" screws out. Then, back them both out 1 1/4 turns. Fine tune it from there but that will be your baseline settings. If it's falling flat on it's face, lean it out a big by turning the screw in until it idles. if it's idling really high, turn the screw out until it idles normal.....

Make sure your air filter is clean before tuning, and warm the saw up a little too. That will help it out in terms of getting it tuned properly. Also make sure you have some fluttering going on at full throttle when it's not in wood, this means you want it a hair rich over the optimal RPM. It ensures you are getting lubrication in the saw, especially during the cut. When you plunge it into wood, it won't flutter anymore.


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## MasterMech (Aug 30, 2013)

Compression test will save you time and money.


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## clemsonfor (Aug 30, 2013)

Its got plenty from the cord now that I fire. It up. It just falls on its face. It runs wot and 4strokes fine. Just when u let it return to idle it dies. This saw is from a logger. It spent its like cutting pre cuts or ply logs as we call them here. Basically short logs or bucking pine.

Most logger. Around here's saws do this. You will see them all grabbing the. Throttle and reveing them to keep them going.


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## clemsonfor (Aug 30, 2013)

OK just went out and fiddled with it. There is only like 3/4 turn on the L screw period??  It run the same bottomed. Out or out. I turned the idle up about a turn. Now it will idle a second or 2 warm then die.

Cut some hickory rounds and noodled a huge cut off I have from a 40" log. This thing cuts like nobodies business!  Wow,  makes the ms390 look tame!! 

I'm thinking I need a kit. Or a orfice is crudded up?


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## clemsonfor (Aug 30, 2013)

EBay the kit for Carb is like $14 and for a few dollars more I can get a complete Carb from china shipped. Still think I'll build mine. Dont have to wait 2 weeks!  Plus its husky oe.


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## DexterDay (Aug 30, 2013)

The 372 has a flat head to adjust the H and L. But...... You need splined shaft tool to adjust it fully. Otherwise, forget it. If you have time and skill, you can press down on the shaft, that the spline tool pushes down, and use another screwdriver to turn the screw further. 

Just turning the flathead part, will yield no results. None at all. You need a piece of tubing, two small flat heads, or the proper tool.


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## MasterMech (Aug 30, 2013)

Sounds to me like the LA (does Husky call it that?) needs to be adjusted.  Throttle butterfly might be closing too far and shutting the saw down.


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## DexterDay (Aug 30, 2013)

Raise the idle (LA) or buy the proper tool

Or. . . I'll give you $200 for it?? If you wanna get rid of it  (J/K....)


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## clemsonfor (Aug 30, 2013)

This one has slotted screws. Don't think its the la screw on a husky??  But just the idle screw.


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## clemsonfor (Aug 30, 2013)

Missed your previous post Dexter. Will look tomorrow.


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## DexterDay (Aug 30, 2013)

I thought mine were slotted.  They are..... But you need a spline shaft to adjust properly. 

Promise you.


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## clemsonfor (Aug 30, 2013)

Dang it!!  Stupid husky!  Is this the same tool I can't find to adjust my 445? It has splines outside of the screws.


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## DexterDay (Aug 30, 2013)

Yep. Only diff is this one has a flathead In the center to fool you


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## clemsonfor (Aug 31, 2013)

OK here is a pic. Cause it happened. The tag fell off but the plate on the front says 372xp.  Looks rough but again this is a loggers saw. They ride around in the back of a truck and stuff gets piled on them.


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## DexterDay (Aug 31, 2013)

Because I am a nice guy... Send me your addy via PM and I have a nice sticker for your saw.  (seriously, not joking).


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## clemsonfor (Aug 31, 2013)

Cool


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## ScotO (Sep 1, 2013)

I love that Dexter Guy.........first class all the way.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 3, 2013)

OK it has turned back to a rebuild.!!

Tried another saw shop to see if they would sell me the Carb tool. They said no. Said I could have them adjust it or I could. So I go back to bench with the old guy. I start. I get it to idle and close but we both are like that's not right. So he gos back to factory settings. Won't starts,so he does one more adjustment and won't start.  Asks bout fuel filter. I said I had not even checked it. He pulled. It and said it was part stopped. I said sure let's throw one in, a partial clog won't help anything.  Then he pulls plug which I not even touched as it ran.  It had a helicoil in it!!  Looked all hacked up.  He said that may be part of problem. I said I'll put a new jug. He said have I pulled muff. Said no. He said pull that and see,  may be scratched causing trouble too.  I said I will now,  that Carb won't do anything to really smooth out.  

He said I would not put money in it. The kit is $300 and you have $70 labor.  I said well I'm building it. He said still saw not worth $300, I would not give that for it. I said I wouldn't either I got it free!   I guess when a younger clean cut looking guy walks in they think you can't do anything???


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## clemsonfor (Sep 3, 2013)

So I am going to build it to some degree.  

He also probably didn't realize I have access to piles of junk saws from contacts!!   

I am toy I g with getting a factory jug off a non locked diner if I can find a good one or go the new route and buy one on eBay.

I'm talking che am non OEM. Any recommendations on chineese kits on eBay that are cheap? 

Not pulled the muff yet so not sure what's the damage if any.

At this point it will be jug minimum and rings. If needed will get a piston as well.

Thoughts?


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## DexterDay (Sep 3, 2013)

Dont do chicom. Look up www.weedeaterman.com he is a member on AS. Look up the Hy Way kit. He puts Caber rings in the kits. I've used them and they are normall around $100 and are pretty close to OEM specs w/good compression due to Caber rings. Also, measure the squish and if possible, dont put the base gasket on (use a sealant, like Loc tite or Clear finger nail polish ) and that will give you a few extra #'s of compression.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 3, 2013)

Understand the theory of no gasket and why and the reason to measure. But what am I measuring in the squish?


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## DexterDay (Sep 3, 2013)

Here it is.http://www.weedeaterman.com/mobile/default.aspx#P38913

That didnt work. Click on Chainsaw cyl kits. Its the 3rd one down. 365, 371, 372 BB kit. $99


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## clemsonfor (Sep 3, 2013)

I think its second one down for like $109?


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## DexterDay (Sep 3, 2013)

Once you are ready to assemble, you place 4 small pieces of solder on the 4 sides of piston. Place cyl on with no base gasket, tighten, run piston up slowy, "squishing" the solder. Remove cyl, and measure the part of the solder that is dented. If its over .025 then run with no base gasket. Make sure to seal it with something though


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## DexterDay (Sep 3, 2013)

Sale Price $99.99


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## clemsonfor (Sep 3, 2013)

Well what I saw was was $109 will look again? . Its 62 in Ohio?  Dang its 90 here!


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## DexterDay (Sep 3, 2013)

Yeah. Was Hot all weekend.  Today is a nice day. It was 68° in my car on the ride home. 

Sticker shipped today. Should be there a  couple/few days


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## clemsonfor (Sep 3, 2013)

Thanks.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 3, 2013)

Say I go chicom. We talking the same quality as there saws?   There many brands I see on eBay

Not saying I am. First choice is a good used jug off another diner and a re ring.  Pulling muff in an hour or so.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 3, 2013)

Hate to spend $40 and get a year out of it.


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## Foragefarmer (Sep 3, 2013)

MSRP on a 372xp is $859.99. If you are going to rebuild something that you have $0 in buy good parts. Weedeaterman sells quality stuff at reasonable prices.

But first take the saw apart and find everything else wrong. You might have a parts saw and may need to look for a saw worth rebuilding.

When I bought that Toyota I just dropped a motor in I knew it would need one sooner rather than later. I also knew it had a good frame, cab, and drivetrain. Make sure that thing has good bones before you start ordering stuff.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 3, 2013)

Point taken. I did put my cart ahead of the horse. I ordered a new chain brake handle. Oh well when I get one to build I'll have a new plastic part!! . 

Point taken on the parts. I'll have $100 in a 372 not a bad deal.


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## DexterDay (Sep 3, 2013)

I agree 1,000%!! Chicom Aint the same. You may get a yr out of it? You may not.  I guarantee the quality isn't the same. 

Plus, Caber Rings.... Cabers


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## clemsonfor (Sep 3, 2013)

OK pulled the plastic off,  plug and muff. Cyl is scores and piston scored. 
These are not the best pics but the lines on the cyl are light score marks and the lines in the middle of piston are light scoring.  I will buy that set off weed eater man unless I find a decent diner with other issues. If the other is better I'll build it and this is a parts saw.


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## DexterDay (Sep 3, 2013)

Honestly? With better pics, that cylinder is salvageable.  A little muratic acid and a Q-tip will take the transfer right off. Then you only need an aftermarket cyl? Through weedeaterman and a set of Cabers, now your under$50.. 
But..... You still need to do a pressure or vac test. You need to know why it blew in the 1st place. Bad seals? Leaky base gasket? Or maybe the guy was having an off day and straight gassed it and it needs nothing. But its always better to check amd know. Than invest money, rebuild, and 3 hrs in, it seizes again? 

Meteor, NWP, Hy way, etc. Lots of good pistons and/or cyl kits stateside. 

Get some better pics and repost. Or better yet, tear the cyl off and take some. Always touch your screen on where you want your phone to Focus. If you just point and click, they wont be nowhere as clear as touching the screen in the area where you want focused and clear.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 3, 2013)

I got a Droid does that work for them??? 

I was gonna year it down bit went I side. I have to clean the grime off before I tear it down. But I will bet more pics.  You mean the cyl is OK and I will just need a piston right??


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## Foragefarmer (Sep 3, 2013)

clemsonfor said:


> I did put my cart ahead of the horse.



I have never done that! Yeah right. And there is this bridge in Brooklyn.....


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## clemsonfor (Sep 3, 2013)

But remember the cylinder is stripped on the plug hole.  So I at least have to find a used one that better.


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## DexterDay (Sep 3, 2013)

Yeah. Nevermind. Buy the entire kit.

As for the Droid. I had a Bionic, now have an S4 Galaxy. Yeah. Tap the object in your screen that you want to focus on. You should see it focus and a green square or circle


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## clemsonfor (Sep 3, 2013)

Not this cheap Kyocera the tapping thing and green box does not happen. I don't have a Droid but an android based phone.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 3, 2013)

I'm not thinking g it was straight gassed but it could of been. It may just be from hours?   This saw was potentially run for many hours a day for several years.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 3, 2013)

Like maybe 4 hours a day plus.


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## MasterMech (Sep 3, 2013)

Are the Hy Way kits and similar not China mfg?  

If you were to delete the base gasket with .025" of squish to start, I'm pretty sure you would be well under what's considered "safe"  piston to head clearance no?


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## DexterDay (Sep 3, 2013)

That's .025 without the gasket? I would measure without 1st. Just because so many have already done the 372 and never had a problem. Most are in that neighborhood.  Without a gasket.. Some run right at or under .020. Thats a lil close in my opinion. But they are also pumping about 210-220 PSI


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## clemsonfor (Sep 3, 2013)

Pulled it down. Well the top off. Pulled piston. Rings are welded on a portion. Lots of blow by. And some melting?? The side of piston in the pic is where the rings are stuck. The pic looking down the top shows the buildup there is a low spot on top and a lip on the edge.


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## DexterDay (Sep 3, 2013)

I have ordered some Chi coms. And I never got a Hy way kit. There are numerous threads on AnotherSite about them. Many comparisons and such. Even if they were close? The Caber rings are well worth the US side kit. Plus shipping is in about 2-3 days. Not 2-3 weeks, and you only save a few bucks and... You dont support our economy  

I say weedeaterman. Randy and Henry are top notch.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 3, 2013)

Here is the cyl. I'm no expert but it seems salvageable IF the plug hole was not stripped.  I can't dell anything that shows in the pic with my finger or nails?


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## clemsonfor (Sep 3, 2013)

This is what I see on the weedeater site..  I still see $109?? 

Class A Husqvarna 365 ... Class A Husqvarna 365 ... Home Home View cart View cart

© Copyright 2013 Weedeaterman Powered byVolusion Go tomain site

Class A Husqvarna 365 371 372 big bore cylinder and piston assembly 52mmï»¿ ProductCode: WEMCY006 Our Price: $115.99 Sale Price: $105.99 Savings: $10.00

Quantity in Stock4

Quoted from page as I can't figure screenshot out for this site?


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## DexterDay (Sep 3, 2013)

Press your power button and your volume up (or down if up doesnt work) that should capture a screenshot on your device for any page. 

As for the price. I found that today and posted it. Will look again.


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## mikefrommaine (Sep 3, 2013)

I've bought a few kits from weedeaterman --> great to deal with.

Here's a code for 5% off, not sure how long it will be good for:

Congrats50

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/243870.htm


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## DexterDay (Sep 3, 2013)

Just looked again. Click on chainsaw cyl kits... Then just scroll down. The 3rd selection down is the 365/371/372 BB kit. Don't select hy way. Just scroll down from the choices of manufacturer.


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## mikefrommaine (Sep 3, 2013)

http://www.weedeaterman.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=372xp

http://www.weedeaterman.com/product_p/wemakotlhu0164.htm


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## DexterDay (Sep 3, 2013)

This is from the mobile site. But there is an $89.99 and a $99.99 kit ($99 w/ Cabers).


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## MasterMech (Sep 3, 2013)

Clemson, if that cylinder has a wire coil type repair then you should be able to remove it, drill the hole to size and use a sleeve type repair kit and save the OEM cylinder.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 3, 2013)

Not sure what kind of helix oil if any. Its pretty stripped. I don't see anything but stripped threads? Put a bunch of pics cause there from my phone and not that good.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 4, 2013)

Thoughts on an air leak could be from a loose wobbly spark plug??  With a hack job helicoil. Or does the air leak have to be on tho bottom end?


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## MasterMech (Sep 4, 2013)

clemsonfor said:


> Thoughts on an air leak could be from a loose wobbly spark plug??  With a hack job helicoil. Or does the air leak have to be on tho bottom end?


Very well could be the plug threads. Hell, I've seen the plug itself leak. Even an air leak at the muffler gasket is harmful.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 4, 2013)

The top ring was stuck in and the real scuffing was on the front of the piston. The muffler side.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2013)

OK just picked up another 372xp parts saw. Sprocket is off it and chain cover and has a bent handle. But it cranks and runs.a bit smoky. Wondering about piston and rings? But if cyl is OK I'm happy. 

As is if u rev it the clutch or whatever you look at on the side will sling out and hit the brake band and smoke??? 
 Not a big deal as this one at most will donate some screws and C/P.  

Anyway here is a pic. Looks like a 2010 model.  And this one has busted brake handle too.  Common I guess when they toss in the truck?


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## DexterDay (Sep 6, 2013)

Id be pulling the plug and the muff immediately to check. If its good? Buy a new set of Caber Rings and do a pressure test (make sure this one dont seize).


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2013)

The plan is to check piston through muff. If both good I will just rearing it and go.


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## DexterDay (Sep 6, 2013)

It may have good compression (rings good)?? Do you have a good compression gauge? I'd trade you a gauge for a Spline tool?


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2013)

Nope no gauge. Its always on the short list from harbor freight but always has gotten bumped. But deal ;-)


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2013)

It runs and idles as is. Seems fine. Its just jacked up cosmetically.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2013)

The original I have was also missing an exhaust gasket. I thought there should be one but not ever messed with a husky so waaent sure. That also was a problem on the other one I had that could cause some leaks!


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## MasterMech (Sep 6, 2013)

Sounds like you need a clutch drum and a brake handle for this one and you might be good to go?  Making any kind of guess about cylinder/ring condition without a compression tester is subjective at best.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2013)

I have the drum. Not a bearing he said went in their. One bar stud on this one is busted. This handle is in better shape. Need to swap the best of each saw over to one of them. I think this one will be the saw. Bar off other,  and brake handle I bought but not sure of every thing else?


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2013)

Just got the sticker in the mail,  thanks Dex. Maybe by end of weekend if not earlier I will have one saw cobbled together from the 2.!


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## DexterDay (Sep 6, 2013)

No prob man..


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2013)

This new saw I got today's piston looks much better. But there are horizontal machine lines on the piston where it goes by the exhaust port in the center section the machine marks are worn smooth. Wouldn't really call it scored through.  Compression. Tester is on way home with mechanic friend as I type


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2013)

Second saw.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2013)

OK,  do I have to split the saw to get at replacing this stud. That holds the bar on,  Tue rear stud is gone?


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2013)

Um doaent look good. I looked on a parts diagram. That stud looks like it goes in from the inside of the crankcase!!   That must be the extra clank I hear banging around in the saw!!   Don't think I'm going to split this one now. Going to swap everything over to the original saw. Which is actually a year newer saw!!   Why is splitting g them so dang difficult!  Grr.


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## mikefrommaine (Sep 6, 2013)

I think on that saw the 'right' way is to split the case... But they might be accessible from the oil tank if you can fish them through?  If not it might be easier to swap the p&c to the other case if its in good shape like you said... You can measure squish and delete the gasket at the same time 

Whatever you do take care of your source for saws... Hard to find deals on xp's


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2013)

Heck I was going to take him to lunch today. He was so far out in the boonies he had sent a guy to get BBQ. He told me he would be back I'm a minute with the BBQ and to stay and eat. So he gave me a saw and gave me lunch! 

These 2 saws are from 2 different loggers.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2013)

Yep u fish it through oil tank if ur lucky!!


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2013)

OK knocked the stud out of the one with the bad P/C and put it into today's saw.  Used a tool grabber/fisher tool, the thing that u use when u drop a socket deep in the engine. I used this to fish the bolt to the hole. Then used nuts larger than the shaft of the bolt,  to pull against. Going to swap the best of stuff to the one from today. Its not as rigged.  The guy I got the first saw from has his crackheads work on stuff. The guy today uses a shop. He told me he spent $250 on this saw today a few years ago and they trashed it so no more!  Just buy a new one.  

The first one I got had no heat shield or muff gasket on the muffler!!   I mean who would this k a gasket that was in their for a reason was not needed?


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## mikefrommaine (Sep 6, 2013)

Won't be long before you put that 390 up for sale on cl...


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2013)

Not sure if I will sell it ever. That was my first saw.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2013)

OK compression on the newer saw today. Well its actually a year older model wise,  anyway.
Its reading right under 140psi.  Good??  Bout to Google it.  I think that's good buff to run.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2013)

Quick peeks at some AS threads say 140-150 on a healthy saw. This one is really like 138 ish. Looks good in that dept.  Will clean the grime off and keep swapping parts.  Today's saw got last weeks saws recoil start,  muffler, side clutch drum bearing and sprocket. I think it will keeps its plastic and everything else at this point. Will give it a drgreaser bath and then air bath.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2013)

That's cold psi. I know it makes a difference,  but not sure which is what should be tested and what corresponds to those numbers I saw posted?


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## MasterMech (Sep 6, 2013)

Cold is the number everyone wants.


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## DexterDay (Sep 6, 2013)

Hot will read less. 140 aint bad at all. A set of Cabers and base gasket removed, will yield in the 170 range? A little spicier when MM'd.  

Either way, good work.. I will send the compression tester out if you really want it? I was dead serious about a trade? I have 2 and only need one...


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2013)

Yep send it on. I haven't asked about a second you know what ;-) but knowing this guy an. The fact he said he had several I know I can get them.

For those of you keeping tract this is the third logger i have brought up. Basically my whole job is selling timber. I know most of The big loggers in about a hundred or two mile range.  I deal mostly with what you would call the big or first rate ones.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 7, 2013)

OK got the saw back together and running. Runs good up top and down low on the idle. Won't idle if I tip it up vertical. Need to wait till my tool comes in. Have the other Carb I can swap but still need the tool as the settings are all out of whack.

The list now includes the handle from first saw on second. The chain gaud and recoil start off first saw. Chain tent ion device from second saw in the firsts cover. Air filter from first on second till I get a new one.  Bar and chain off first one. Stud for bar out of first. A few screws from first to replace missing ones on second. Muffler from first on second. A spring from First on the cylinder of the second. Crank case and handle and P/C of second is the main part of build. And have a new chain brake handle I ordered from the bay.  

Again. I will have to wait till I get an adjustment tool to either set this Carb or swap and or rebuild/ clean this one.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 7, 2013)

Here are some pics of it back together.  Even this, what I thought to be good adjuster is busted it looks like??  These are really cheap easily destructed adjustment systems,  it seems like.  I need to order one now.


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## DexterDay (Sep 7, 2013)

Whats your total into it? Actual money spent...? 

Because I know that even in bad shape?  They'll pull a few hundo. 

Congrats. Even if you had to spend $50-$100? That would be a damn fine saw for the price.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 7, 2013)

All in as it sits I have $0.  

But I am buying a new air filter, and chain adjuster. But that stuff can be needed. On any saw, ESP air filter.  If I need a Carb kit that's another. $13 but I think I can adjust it to run.  So once I have it ready for a work saw I will have about $25 on it for the parts and shipping share,  then maybe 2 hours of dissasembly testing, an. Reassembly. And another hour or so here .


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## DexterDay (Sep 7, 2013)

Yep... A $25-$35 372XP!! There is definitely a "You Suck" compliment in order here 

Congrats man. Not many can pull that off. I hope you bought the people who gave you them a 6 pack of the finest around  Those are people I like to surround myself with also.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 7, 2013)

The first saw came with him twisting my arm to take 2 at mason jars with me  Didn't really want it but felt bad not taking it. Clear and apple pie Flavors.  The second guy I was going to take to lunch and he ended up giving me lunch that the brought to the woods!


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## DexterDay (Sep 7, 2013)

Nice. Sometimes good things happen to good people. Keep surrounding yourself with people like that and you'll go far.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 8, 2013)

OK I forgot I did but a chain brake o
Handle off eBay. For $18 shipped.

Said it fit 372xp but did not fit it was hitting the top plastic.  They said they were not going to pay for return shipping so instead of loosing my money I decided to cut a bit off the back till it fit.. got that dome and was button g it up and noticed that there was a rand fuel line hanging under the carb platform. So I pulled that stuff and looking at the spare one I had I could tell where it went and I was able to org it on with a screwdriver.  It would still run so I knew it was a return or vent or something.  This explains all the gas all over the saw when I had it drying in sun yesterday ripped up on end.

Back together now.


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