# Another Wood Stove in a Pole Barn thread



## Mike Cook (Oct 19, 2012)

Greetings!

I've been lurking for a while now, finally got off my butt and composed a few questions. Your opinions are appreciated.

For my pole barn workshop I have bought a Country Comfort CC175 off Craigslist. It's on the EPA list of certified wood stoves, and it meets Washington State Limits (barely).

Code requires that the stove be 18" off the floor if it's installed in a garage. Is the 18" measured from the bottom of the firebox or the pedestal attached to the stove?

Any thoughts on the platform and heat shield? I'm thinking of cinder blocks with a metal sheet across them. I'd fill the blocks with sackrete (sp?) and make sure it's stable, but want to keep the cost to a minimum. Having a nice big thermal mass under the stove is part of the idea too (and it would be built to allow air flow under the platform).

As far as a heat shield, I'm thinking of a simple block wall filled with sackrete behind the stove.  I'd build the wall 6 or 8" from the shop wall and put a couple of small wings on it. Crude diagram below

        \_Stove_/
     ____________

Air could flow all the way around it, and it would provide a little residual heat so the shop doesn't cool off too much overnight.

I"m also going to mount a fan up in the trusses. I'll wire it in to the plugs the lights are on. Lights off = fan off. Thanks to whomever I read that little tid bit from!

Any other thoughts, ideas, suggestions, etc?


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## Ashful (Oct 19, 2012)

No advice on how to meausre your 18", but the requirement is to avoid having the stove burning gasoline fumes.  This is a pole barn, which - depending on its use, may or may not be considered a "garage".


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## Backwoods Savage (Oct 19, 2012)

Welcome to the forum Mike.

Be sure and install it 18" from the lowest part of the stove. That being the pedestal or legs. Then you will be sure to pass code. Of course, there is nothing to keep you from exceeding code either. If code calls for 18", I'd probably go 20".


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## Highbeam (Oct 19, 2012)

You mentioned WA rules so I assume you are in WA. I am too and am currently setting up my pole barn stove. Fire code prohibits a solid fuel burner in a garage. If your barn has a door which would allow you to drive a car into it then that barn is now a garage. Are you getting a permit? I just verified with my inspector that he would approve of a woodstove in my pole barn/garage so long as it is 18" from the floor. Don't know why he is willing to approve it but I am taking advantage of his lack of knowledge.

I fully intend to build the platform such that the top of the platform is 18" from the floor. Taller is better for several reasons and loading the stove is much easier.

I am not certain if I will need to put bollards around my stove or not. I'll actually call to make sure that I don't have to since that would look stupid.

Oh and the barn stove must be certified to get approval. My fisher that I picked up for the install is not certified so I plan to get another EPA stove at least temporarily. In my case I only plan to heat the barn occasionally for working out there but also if the temps get really low I want the heat to prevent freezing of chemicals and water lines.

When the inspector comes, you might want to relocate all your gas cans and small engines. Else he may realize that maybe the barn stove isn't a good idea.


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## oldspark (Oct 19, 2012)

I know this has been beat to death but people use torches and welders and torpedo heaters in garages all the time, seems to me like they are a lot more unsafe that a enclosed fire in a wooodburner.


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## eclecticcottage (Oct 19, 2012)

oldspark said:


> I know this has been beat to death but people use torches and welders and torpedo heaters in garages all the time, seems to me like they are a lot more unsafe that a enclosed fire in a wooodburner.


 
I *think* the premise behind it is that a torch or welder can be shut off, whereas a fire doesn't have a trigger (switch).  Also, I imagine if one were to open the stove to reload, etc it would have a different effect on fumes than the sparks or concentrated flame of the torch.  I don't know that there is a governing body that can regulate tools or portable heaters like the torpedo (I've also never actually looked to see if they are mentioned in code).  Probably based on something some darwin winners managed to accomplish more than anything.  JIMO though.


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## Mike Cook (Oct 19, 2012)

Highbeam said:


> You mentioned WA rules so I assume you are in WA. I am too and am currently setting up my pole barn stove. Fire code prohibits a solid fuel burner in a garage. If your barn has a door which would allow you to drive a car into it then that barn is now a garage. Are you getting a permit? I just verified with my inspector that he would approve of a woodstove in my pole barn/garage so long as it is 18" from the floor. Don't know why he is willing to approve it but I am taking advantage of his lack of knowledge.


 
Hi Highbeam!

I've read a number of your posts!

I'm thinking that the fire code's been changed. Spokane County wood stove installation guidelines specifically say that if the stove is to be installed in a garage it must be 18" off the floor. Funny thing is, I had the same .pdf downloaded on my desktop from a few weeks ago. Suddenly this morning when I checked the online version there's a new note in the document calling out the stove height when installed in a garage. If they're publishing it to the public, it must have changed.

I'm still debating the whole permit thing. I'm definitely doing it to code, but I'm waffling on the extra couple hundred bucks for the permit. This afternoon I'm going to stop by a stove shop and pick their brains a little. I'm not sure if I have the pole barn insured. I'll have to check that too. Obviously, insurance equals permits.



Backwoods Savage said:


> Be sure and install it 18" from the lowest part of the stove. That being the pedestal or legs. Then you will be sure to pass code. Of course, there is nothing to keep you from exceeding code either. If code calls for 18", I'd probably go 20"


 
Good point! Why didn't I think of that? 

Do either of you have any thoughts or suggestions on the mass under / around the stove for efficiency? Bricks vs. Cinder Block, steel, etc.


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## Highbeam (Oct 19, 2012)

Modern stoves really don't send much heat downwards, and any heat that does radiate from the underbelly of the stove will be caught by whatever lies beneath whether that be the slab or the hearth. So you don't lose that heat and efficiency will not be changed. I've been pondering this too and I am having a bit of hesitation in setting a 500 lb stove on top of a stack of cinderblocks. It would be bad if the thing tipped over. You would need to build it with mortar and oversize it a bit so the dang stove doesn't walk off the edge. Stoves tend to creep a bit anyways so make sure you keep an eye on the stove up on this platform. 

A wooden platform is another possibility since many hearths have wooden structures. You would need to verify the hearth requirements for your stove of course but if your stove only requires ember protection then you could build a nice wooden platform and set tile or sheet metal on top.

The purpose is to elevate the fire. A guy could even weld on leg extensions which I have actually seen done in a home where the operator was in a wheelchair for better loading access.

I doubt the NFPA has changed to allow solid fuel heaters in garages. That is not likely at all. However, your local AHJ was nice enough to publish their rules which may be different. Your insurance company may still stick to the fire code. Get the permit if you are going to do it. My Pierce County permit cost 65$ for a woodstove/chimney installation.


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## oldspark (Oct 19, 2012)

I was going to build a heavy steel frame as I have most of the materials on hand, that way I can put a lip on the platform and wont have to worry about it.


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## Mike Cook (Oct 24, 2012)

A quick update...

I visited a stove store yesterday. I was looking for rough estimates to install the stove. The owner offered to have his installer come out to give me an estimate, but I told him I was afraid it would be a waste of his time if I did the install myself. His response: "At least let him give you a materials list. Maybe you'll buy the parts from me."

How could I argue with that? I'm assuming I'll hear from the installer today to schedule an appointment.



oldspark said:


> I was going to build a heavy steel frame as I have most of the materials on hand, that way I can put a lip on the platform and wont have to worry about it.


 


Highbeam said:


> A wooden platform is another possibility


 
Both are good ideas. Yesterday I was looking at masonry building supplies when it occurred to me that I can build a platform out of steel studs, cover it with durarock (or whatever that cement board is called), and then use interlocking pavers as a hearth. Some type of angle iron or aluminum to keep them from moving and it would be quick and decent looking. Maybe finish it off with some kind of masonry around the sides.

I'm still thinking of the cinder block wall behind the stove, so the platform could anchor to that for stability.



Highbeam said:


> Get the permit if you are going to do it.


 
Yeah, you're right. I was wrong about the costs. Looks like it's less than a hundred bucks here too. Another thought regarding the installer above was that he would know exactly what they want to pass inspection the first time.



Highbeam said:


> When the inspector comes, you might want to relocate all your gas cans and small engines. Else he may realize that maybe the barn stove isn't a good idea


 
I actually just built myself a nice little garden shed / chicken coop for that very thing. If there's a fire, it's only going to be roast chickens!





The pic above is a little old. The roof is finished, and gas cans, small motors, etc. are being moved out of my shop. (Don't EVEN ask the questions my wife has been asking. "Why do you need another shed?" "What's wrong with the shed you have?" and "Why do you need TWO sheds?")

That's it for now. I'll keep you posted.


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## John_M (Oct 24, 2012)

Mike, "...Obviously, insurance equals permits...."  I am uncertain about the meaning of this statement. However, as highbeam and others have suggested, I would urge you to become familiar with the necessary insurance and codes requirements prior to starting the installation. Upon completion, spend the few dollars and sleep comfortably each night knowing your insurance company and Codes office approve your installation. Insurance companies and Municipal Codes officers look harshly upon undisclosed information.

Just my $.02 worth.

Best wishes and good luck


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## jhoff310 (Oct 24, 2012)

I know codes will vary from state to state. The heat shield answer is simple. A piece of sheet metal, as long as there is at minimum 1" of air flow behind the metal you are good to go. I confirmed this with my ins. agent and the local FD.

Jeff


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## Mike Cook (Oct 24, 2012)

John_M said:


> I am uncertain about the meaning of this statement.


 
I was trying to say that I know that if I want to have viable insurance, I'll need to have the stove inspected and permitted. So, your right. I totally agree. I was just having a moment or two of "cheapness". But thanks for the $.02! 



jhoff310 said:


> I know codes will vary from state to state. The heat shield answer is simple. A piece of sheet metal, as long as there is at minimum 1" of air flow behind the metal you are good to go. I confirmed this with my ins. agent and the local FD.


 
I wasn't really thinking of simple heat shields. I was asking more for opinions on massive heat "reservoirs" that would continue to radiate heat after the stove had died down to keep the shop a little warmer for the next morning. I realize now that looking back at my original post I really didn't say this very well, sorry.


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## Mike Cook (Nov 19, 2012)

Another Update......

Okay, I have to admit that one of the things I didn't think through was the cost of the chimney pipe, roof supports, etc. Holy chit! Looks like it'll end up being at least another $1000 to do this right. (Don't tell my wife......)

I decided to do an L shaped block wall as a heat shield / heat reservoir. The block will be filled with sand. Pic below is the beginning.



I held the blocks about 4 inches off the outside wall so I can get a shop vac back there to clean.

The stove will be about 3 inches off the right wing wall and centered on the middle block in the back wall. I'll post more pics as the project progresses.

(As a side note....YES, I temporarily ran stove pipe out the window with stone blocks to shield the window frame. Yes the stove is lit. I did this for two reasons. 1.) It was cold, and 2.) I really wanted to play with my stove. I'm sure you guys understand!  )

More pics to follow.


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## oldspark (Nov 19, 2012)

You are playing with fire ya know.


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## Highbeam (Nov 19, 2012)

Any plans to elevate the stove 18" from the ground?


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## Mike Cook (Nov 19, 2012)

Highbeam said:


> Any plans to elevate the stove 18" from the ground?


 
Yes sir! The block will be tall enough to accommodate both the elevated "hearth" and the stove. Originally I planned on making the block wall 64" tall, but when I dry stacked the block I liked the look of having a staggered top so it'll probably end up being 72" tall at it's highest point. The stove is +/- 29" tall, the platform will be +/- 20", so the door of the stove should be right around 40" or so. I'll post some pics when it's further along if the design isn't clear.

I'm still kind of kicking around what to build the platform with. It'll probably be a wood platform with interlocking pavers on top.

And as we discussed above, I'm getting permits too. I'll go pull the permit once the block and platform are done and I'm ready to pony up the bucks for the chimney.


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## Highbeam (Nov 19, 2012)

I'm jealous, I planned on using block as well since it is cheap and non-cobustible. You could add a couple of columns under the hearth directly beneath the stove. You could then locate a slab of granite, or pour a concrete slab like they do with countertops.


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## nate379 (Nov 19, 2012)

Just wondering what the blocks cost?  I bought a few this summer and they were about 10$ each.


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## Highbeam (Nov 19, 2012)

1.17$ each

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...Id=10053&cm_sp=BazVoice-_-RLP-_-100322580-_-x


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## nate379 (Nov 20, 2012)

That link says not available here, but I checked Lowe's and they are $2.94 each. I bought my from the local hardware store, usually they are same or cheaper than Lowe's when I but on my account with them.


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## Highbeam (Oct 2, 2013)

Thread mining... dug up this old one... How did it end up Mike?


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## Mike Cook (Oct 3, 2013)

Hey Highbeam! 

Funny you should post this, I've been thinking of this thread for a while.

Next Saturday we're completing the project. (Just bought the last parts yesterday!)

I'll post more pics then....I promise!


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## Mike Cook (Oct 7, 2013)

Here's a couple of pics to bring things up to date.



I built the base out of 2X6's. The top is 2 1/2" pieces of plywood with an aluminum lip around the edge to hold the pavers. I routed a shallow recess for the aluminum so that it sat flush with the plywood top. (You can see the plumb bob hanging from the roof for the chimney layout and the stove up on blocks to be moved over to the platform. I slid the stove over on 2X6's layed flat.)

It's over built, but that's what I wanted.........




I had a few questions regarding the height of the block wall and permits. After a call to the inspector that covers my area, I finally finished the block wall. It's filled with a combination of leftover mortar and sand. 






The stove is sitting on the 2X6's so I don't mark up the pavers while I'm moving it around. There is 2 - 45's sitting on top to the left of the stove pipe connector

The door is off to replace the gaskets (and it makes it a little lighter while I move it)

I'm working on the cathedral ceiling support box now but I don't have any pics. It's 13' from the support box to the top of the stove, so I'm doing everything from an extension ladder. On the higher side of the roof I have to use my pickup bed to elevate the extension ladder to where I need to be. It's safe, but it slows me down a lot.

I'll post some more pics soon.


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## Mike Cook (Oct 11, 2013)

Hi Guys!

I'm planning on perforating the roof tomorrow morning. I'll try and photo as much as possible. Usually I get jammin' around and forget to take pics.

Tonight I took a bunch so you get a bit of a pic dump on a Friday night.....



I'm making a template for the roof cut.




The first half of the support box frame.





I cut the insulation to expose the sheet metal.....



...and fitted another cardboard template into the hole.


Back on the ground I cut the cathedral support box and attached the other half of the support box.









Then I dry fitted the box to see how it would fit.



More pics next post.....


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## Mike Cook (Oct 11, 2013)

It's going to take 10' of double wall to meet code.










The transition piece from single wall to double wall.




and a final shot of the overall project. Pay no attention to the mess........


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## begreen (Oct 11, 2013)

That's a lot more single wall than most stove makers recommend. Many say switch over to double wall if the connector is longer than 8 ft.


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## Mike Cook (Oct 11, 2013)

begreen said:


> That's a lot more single wall than most stove makers recommend. Many say switch over to double wall if the connector is longer than 8 ft.


_chit! Hmmmm..Didn't know that!_

That really just means that it needs to be run hot and cleaned yearly, right?


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## BrotherBart (Oct 11, 2013)

I hope fossil rings in. That roof looks about the same height as his living room. And I think he goes to the ceiling with single wall. Maybe not.


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## BrotherBart (Oct 11, 2013)

And you have a whole different definition of "pole barn".


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## oldspark (Oct 12, 2013)

Mike Cook said:


> _chit! Hmmmm..Didn't know that!_
> 
> That really just means that it needs to be run hot and cleaned yearly, right?


 
How many feet of single wall will you have, if only a few feet over the 8 I dont think you will have a problem.
Nice pictures, my ceiling box will be mounted to the rafters because I will have tin on the bottom of them other wise my install will be some what like yours, going to build a metal frame for the stove to get it off the floor by 18 inches or so.


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## Mike Cook (Oct 12, 2013)

oldspark said:


> How many feet of single wall will you have, if only a few feet over the 8 I dont think you will have a problem.



It'll be close to 12 feet with an offset with a couple of 45's. Haven't decided where the 45's are going....


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## oldspark (Oct 12, 2013)

Mike Cook said:


> It'll be close to 12 feet with an offset with a couple of 45's. Haven't decided where the 45's are going....


 
I assume the stove will be burnt hot most of the time, keep an eye on it and clean often (especially in the begining when you are going through the learning curve) and you should be fine.
Nice shop by the way.


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## begreen (Oct 12, 2013)

What stove is this? Looks like an old Drolet, but I don't recognize it. The double-wall pipe for longer connectors is a recommendation, not a a requirement. It does make a difference on some draft sensitive installations and does keep the flue gases hotter. If you don't have excessive creosote build up due to pipe cool down I wouldn't worry too much about it.


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## Highbeam (Oct 12, 2013)

begreen said:


> What stove is this? Looks like an old Drolet, but I don't recognize it. The double-wall pipe for longer connectors is a recommendation, not a a requirement. It does make a difference on some draft sensitive installations and does keep the flue gases hotter. If you don't have excessive creosote build up due to pipe cool down I wouldn't worry too much about it.


 
SInce the temperature in the barn will likely be quite cold, close to outdoor temps, I can't imagine draft being a problem. Compare this to less dense warm room air in the home, draft should be better. More likely is that creo accumulation will be faster as the length of single wall gets too high and with the 45 degree offsets, that is the thing to watch. 

Another thing about pole barn stoves is they aren't likely to be simmered low all day. I expect that it will see full throttle quite often.


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## Highbeam (Oct 12, 2013)

Mike Cook said:


> View attachment 114303
> 
> It's going to take 10' of double wall to meet code.
> 
> ...


 
I'm right behind you mike. Stove pipe in the barn in boxes, stove to be delivered on Monday. I won't build the hearth pad until the chimney is installed since I want to be able to get the ladder under it. Our barns look to be similar in construction methods with large truss spacing, mine is 12 feet.


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## Ashful (Oct 12, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> SInce the temperature in the barn will likely be quite cold, close to outdoor temps, I can't imagine draft being a problem.


What am I missing, here?  Draft is a product of the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors .  As that difference approaches zero, draft stops.  In cases where it's cooler indoors than outside (your barn on a warm spring day ), draft reverses.


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## Highbeam (Oct 12, 2013)

Joful said:


> What am I missing, here?  Draft is a product of the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors .  As that difference approaches zero, draft stops.  In cases where it's cooler indoors than outside (your barn on a warm spring day ), draft reverses.


 
It just doesn't work like that in reality.

Perhaps colder air is denser air and creates pressure at the base. Warm air aloft is less dense and also with elevation is at a lower pressure due to height so it sucks.

You know, I might not understand chimney draft too well. What drives air to climb that pipe? Worthy of a new thread.


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## Mike Cook (Oct 13, 2013)

begreen said:


> What stove is this? Looks like an old Drolet, but I don't recognize it.



It's a Country Comfort CC175. I got it off Craigslist and can't find manuals anywhere.


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## Mike Cook (Oct 13, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> Another thing about pole barn stoves is they aren't likely to be simmered low all day. I expect that it will see full throttle quite often.



That's what I'm thinking too. The big block structure is suppossed to "bank" some of the heat.


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## Mike Cook (Oct 13, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> I'm right behind you mike. Stove pipe in the barn in boxes, stove to be delivered on Monday. I won't build the hearth pad until the chimney is installed since I want to be able to get the ladder under it. Our barns look to be similar in construction methods with large truss spacing, mine is 12 feet.


New stove, huh? Nice!   My trusses are at 10' The pole barn is 36X40 so they just quartered the 40'.

Yeah, it's been getting chilly over here...Seems like we went from it being too hot to get on that medal roof.... to frost in the mornings...


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## Highbeam (Oct 14, 2013)

Mike Cook said:


> New stove, huh? Nice!   My trusses are at 10' The pole barn is 36X40 so they just quartered the 40'.
> 
> Yeah, it's been getting chilly over here...Seems like we went from it being too hot to get on that medal roof.... to frost in the mornings...


 
Yes, I cruised CL looking for a certified stove which is required to pass inspection. The few I found were small, rusty,beat up badly and still priced at more than half of what the nc30 will cost new. So I went ahead and splurged on a new one. The englander 30 is about the perfect stove for this application.

We had 30 degrees and frosty pumpkins this morning.

Thinking I will dry stack the CMU blocks for the raised hearth.


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## begreen (Oct 14, 2013)

Wow, big temp difference from here. We had a low of 46F.


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## Highbeam (Oct 14, 2013)

begreen said:


> Wow, big temp difference from here. We had a low of 46F.


 
I didn't expect 30 either, being close to the sound must moderate your temps somewhat. The grass and roofs were all white with frost. The diesel was nice and smokey in this temp especially since I didn't run it yesterday and it was cold soaked.


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## begreen (Oct 14, 2013)

Yes, Puget Sound is a giant heat sink. Keeps us warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. It's not uncommon for Seattle to be at 85 and we are at 72F. Our temps are usually closer to SeaTac's, especially in the winter.


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## Mike Cook (Oct 27, 2013)

I used the template on the inside to drill a hole in the center. I used the hole as my layout point for the outside.




It's kind of a weird feeling cutting into a perfectly good roof! I should also mention that up to this point I've done all of the work from a ladder. Working on a metal roof from a ladder sucks.



I cut the bottom as tight as I could with a hand held 4" grinder. I over cut a little on the right on accident. It's not more than about a 1/4 inch, but I wanted it tighter. I filled the over cut with silicon.



At this point the exterior flashing is installed but not fastened. This way I can move the flashing a tiny bit to help plumb the stove pipe. After the cathedral support box is installed, I can go back outside and finish the fasteners.

One of my challenges was installing a cathedral support box after the flashing was installed above it. You can't reach down into the box because of the flashing and you can't reach up into it because of the stove pipe. I ended up putting all of the stove pipe together and using it to support the double wall higher than I needed it. (There is a collar that gets attached to the double wall pipe that holds the pipe on the cathedral support box. The collar is inside the box.)

Here's a step stool on blocks with various shop items piled up to the proper height for the stovepipe support.





We got the pipe plumbed up and started sliding the support box up the pipe. The support box with 2 X 6's attached is heavy, so imagine my choice words when the support box would not slide over the single wall to double wall converter. I battled it for about 20 minutes and then decided take the pipes apart at the transition.

The double wall pipe is heavy and the support box is to, so it was quite the chore to hold the double wall up into the flashing while trying to fit the cathedral support box over the pipe while on a ladder with my wife helping. She was on another ladder. (If anyone takes anything away from this thread, it should be: It's easier on you and your home life if you ask a buddy to help! ;-)    )

The pic below shows the dings on the reducer where I couldn't get the box over it. It also shows the dent in the double wall where we dropped it. Like I said....it's heavy, we're on ladders, and my wife was helping me. Sometimes my impatience bites me in the ass.....




(The final installation doesn't have that much double wall hanging down. I'm using one of the outside pieces to prop up the pipe with the retaining ring until I could get the box nailed off.)


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## Highbeam (Oct 27, 2013)

There must have been an easier way. Could you not drop the class A down through the flashing and support box from above on the roof after it was installed? Having the pipe in there seemed to be your problem and I've always put the pipe up last.


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## begreen (Oct 27, 2013)

That's correct, the pipe goes in last. The normal way is to install the cathedral support box first, then install the flashing, then insert the pipe, lock in place, then anchor the flashing and install the storm collar. Seal with silicone.


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## Mike Cook (Oct 27, 2013)

begreen said:


> That's correct, the pipe goes in last. The normal way is to install the cathedral support box first, then install the flashing, then insert the pipe, lock in place, then anchor the flashing and install the storm collar. Seal with silicone.



Now you tell me! 

Actually, that's what I figured, but I wanted to get the box hung before I rented the cherry picker to do the roof work. I was trying to save a few bucks.........

In the best of all worlds, the damn roof would just be framed. I was REALLY nervous being up on the metal roof from the ladder, so it clouded my judgement. In hindsight I should have A.) Had a buddy to help and B.) Planned on renting the man lift for at least a day, maybe 2. Next time.......

It's windy as hell here in Spokane tonight. The stove pipe is holding up well. It doesn't even rattle......

Inspection in the morning.


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## begreen (Oct 28, 2013)

All's well that ends well. Windy here too. But nice sunny skies so no complaints.


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## Highbeam (Oct 28, 2013)

begreen said:


> All's well that ends well. Windy here too. But nice sunny skies so no complaints.


 
Dang you lowlanders, we only got a flash or two of sunshine today and no wind. Maybe tomorrow. 14 extra pumpkins in the back of my pickup to be delivered, we are supposed to get a real hard frost tomorrow night. Glad to have the squash out of the garden.


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## begreen (Oct 28, 2013)

First sunny day in over a week. It was appreciated. My son and I cleaned out several beds today.


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## Mike Cook (Oct 28, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> Dang you lowlanders, we only got a flash or two of sunshine today and no wind. Maybe tomorrow. 14 extra pumpkins in the back of my pickup to be delivered, we are supposed to get a real hard frost tomorrow night. Glad to have the squash out of the garden.





begreen said:


> First sunny day in over a week. It was appreciated. My son and I cleaned out several beds today.



Over here on the "East Side" it's been beautiful. Fog in the morning and 60 degree sunny days....until last night. Looks like winter is here.

Highbeam - I've been wanting to do pumpkins for a while now. Do you start early and keep them covered? Next year I'm doing pumpkins, early cantaloupe and potatoes in stacked tires! (among other things..)


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## Highbeam (Oct 28, 2013)

Mike Cook said:


> Over here on the "East Side" it's been beautiful. Fog in the morning and 60 degree sunny days....until last night. Looks like winter is here.
> 
> Highbeam - I've been wanting to do pumpkins for a while now. Do you start early and keep them covered? Next year I'm doing pumpkins, early cantaloupe and potatoes in stacked tires! (among other things..)


 
We plant seeds direct as soon as we can get away with it. Some years we lose half of the seeds to rot and only get 40 pumpkins like this year or some years they all take off and we get 80 pumpkins. I only consume about 30 so we always have enough extra to share with coworkers and stangers.

My neighbor actually got watermelons this year.

We're having a great day today. Lots of sun.

Sorry about the thread drift.


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## Mike Cook (Oct 28, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> We plant seeds direct as soon as we can get away with it. Some years we lose half of the seeds to rot and only get 40 pumpkins like this year or some years they all take off and we get 80 pumpkins. I only consume about 30 so we always have enough extra to share with coworkers and stangers.
> 
> My neighbor actually got watermelons this year.
> 
> ...



No need to apologize about the drift....This thread is just about finished any how.... 

Just got my inspection. All is passed and signed off.

I'll post a couple of pics tonight of the finished product to wrap up the thread.


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## Mike Cook (Oct 29, 2013)

I actually installed the fan pictured below last winter. It's plugged into a landscape light remote. The remote is plugged into the same recepticle as the lights, so the fan shuts off when I shut off the lights.





....and a few pics of the finished project. (You'll also notice that I "borrowed" some one's firewood rack plans  *Emulation is the highest form of flattery!*)


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## oldspark (Oct 29, 2013)

Looks good Mike, I like the idea of the fan on the circuit with the lights, might have to "borrow" theat idea from you.


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