# Bar and Chains, explain the details please



## mywaynow (Nov 27, 2012)

All these references and so little knowledge.  I am certain that will change.  So I am looking at 20 inch bars and chains by different manufacturers, for the 576xp.  I see pitch, bar thickness and drive lengths.  I see 20 inch bars with 70 and 72 dl.  Wouldn't a pitch and length determine the dl??   Set me straight.  And I wouldn't mind some opinions of bar models that are good buys either.


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## TreePointer (Nov 27, 2012)

You forgot bar mount.

1. Select a bar in the length you want THAT FITS YOUR BAR MOUNT TYPE.
2. Number of DL neeeded is determined by the specifications for that bar.


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## TreePointer (Nov 27, 2012)

My basic bar recommendation for any non-Stihl saw is Oregon PowerMatch (or the same bar with "Husqvarna" painted on it). From there, it's just about how much money you wish to spend for a reduced weight bars or very hard (and shiny) bars in the same length.


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## bogydave (Nov 27, 2012)

Bar has to match the saw brand & mdl number + also match the drive sprocket on the saw.
Chain has to match the bar & drive sprocket.
Oregon makes the Husq's bars


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## Halligan (Nov 27, 2012)

I just researched bar's and chain form my new 372xp and it can be confusing. Bottom line is you need a bar that properly fits your saw. The wrong bar may "bolt up" to your saw but things like oiling holes may not line up causing the bar and chain to fail. According to Husqvarna's website the 576xp is running 3/8 pitch .058 gauge bar and chain. To add more confusion 3/8 can be referred to as .375 as well. I know on Bailey's website Oregon chain is listed as .375 instead of 3/8 but it's the same.

.325 /.375 & 3/8 / .404  are the pitch of the drive link on the chain. Whatever chain pitch you choose to run the saw sprocket has to match. Bar gauge is the width of the groove in the bar either .050 / .058 / .063 (Stihl only I think).  

May I suggest you go to a website like Bailey's where you can browse just about any saw bar or chain you can think of running on that 576. 

On my saw I went with a Husqvarna Power Match 20" bar. The Husky and Oregon Power Match are the same bar and they cost the same. I also have a 28" Power Match for my 372xp and it's heavy. If I thought I would be running the 28" bar frequently I would consider going to a more expensive Techlite bar.


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## MasterMech (Nov 28, 2012)

mywaynow said:


> I see 20 inch bars with 70 and 72 dl. Wouldn't a pitch and length determine the dl?? Set me straight.


 
Difference is usually the height of the bar, or the "profile".  I'd stick with the 72 DL setup in 3/8" .050.  Chains available in every dealer, saw shop, box store, and mom & pop hardware store.



mywaynow said:


> And I wouldn't mind some opinions of bar models that are good buys either.


 
You get what you pay for, Oregon PowerMatch (or the Husky equivalent) would be my pick for a 20" on that saw.  There are also more exotic and expensive options but I don't have much experience with them.  I do know you don't want a cheap bar that doesn't have hardened rails.  It'll wear, usually unevenly, much faster over time and cause you grief.
Check out Oregon's selector tool.

http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=OCS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG


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## HDRock (Dec 2, 2012)

So whats the deal with the full chisel chains ,yellow box / label, I don't see them available at box stores, are they ??
Will a local dealer give U a hard time about buying them ???
Where is best place to buy them for best price ???


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## Thistle (Dec 2, 2012)

HDRock said:


> So whats the deal with the full chisel chains ,yellow box / label, I don't see them available at box stores, are they ??
> Will a local dealer give U a hard time about buying them ???
> Where is best place to buy them for best price ???


 
The only local place I remember seeing yellow label,full chisel chains in the last several years(except for a regular saw dealer or saw shop) was Northern Tool.Last time I was in there several months back they still had 2-3 sizes of Oregon LGX 72 mixed in with all the consumer/safety chains on their display shelf.Home Depot,Lowes,Menards,the 3-4 Ace Hardware stores,Tractor Supply,Orscheln etc.around here only carry safety chain.

My preferred fav is LGX72- 70 DL for the Super 380.VERY aggressive,works great in clean wood.With coupon I can get it for $20+ 6% sales tax.The LGX/JGX 93 DL 28" Full Chisel & Full Skip for the 288XPW runs around $28-32 depending on where I go.Either have to have loops made up locally or order factory loops online.Found an online Ebay dealer in WI the other day who has the 70 DL chain for $19 & 93 DL chain for $25,including shipping,no minimum order.That's who I'm buying from next when the need arises.


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## mywaynow (Dec 2, 2012)

Thistle said:


> The only local place I remember seeing yellow label,full chisel chains in the last several years(except for a regular saw dealer or saw shop) was Northern Tool.Last time I was in there several months back they still had 2-3 sizes of Oregon LGX 72 mixed in with all the consumer/safety chains on their display shelf.Home Depot,Lowes,Menards,the 3-4 Ace Hardware stores,Tractor Supply,Orscheln etc.around here only carry safety chain.
> 
> My preferred fav is LGX72- 70 DL for the Super 380.VERY aggressive,works great in clean wood.With coupon I can get it for $20+ 6% sales tax.The LGX/JGX 93 DL 28" Full Chisel & Full Skip for the 288XPW runs around $28-32 depending on where I go.Either have to have loops made up locally or order factory loops online.Found an online Ebay dealer in WI the other day who has the 70 DL chain for $19 & 93 DL chain for $25,including shipping,no minimum order.That's who I'm buying from next when the need arises.


 What dealer is that in WI?  If I have only used safety chains, (not sure?) what would be a reasonable expectation for performance differences and risk avoidance?


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## bogydave (Dec 2, 2012)

I noticed a big performance improvement, enough that I probably won't go back to box store chains 
Risk? all chains kick back, these kick back more. I haven't noticed it to be more of a safety issue. 
I think most guys who've run a chain saw for a while understand kick back & keep their head in the game 
Give one a try, I think you'll be impressed. The Oregon LPX is a full chisel, with a little kick back reduction using a guard link (but not a safety chain).

Oregon Dealers all over WI .  
Also might want to try a Stihl RS full chisel. Some say they stay sharp longer.
Haven't proved that yet but Stihl was $1.50 cheaper for a 3/8 X .050 72 DL ,  20" 

Oregon dealer locator,
 enter your zip code 
http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/dealer_locator.htm

Some help with the part numbers:


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## HDRock (Dec 2, 2012)

Found these for my Husky 61, 20"
And the place is in West Branch, MI
*2 PACK 20" Oregon Husqvarna Stihl 72LGX-72 3/8 .050 72 Chainsaw Chain*

*http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PACK-20-O...GX-72-3-8-050-72-Chainsaw-Chain-/280770220981*
*Single chain $18.82  http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Oregon-H...492?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f071d68a4*


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## Thistle (Dec 2, 2012)

mywaynow said:


> What dealer is that in WI? If I have only used safety chains, (not sure?) what would be a reasonable expectation for performance differences and risk avoidance?


 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400341292180?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649  Equipatron is the Ebay seller's name,they're in Milwaukee.


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## HDRock (Dec 2, 2012)

So, is the idea with the skip tooth, is to clear out the chips better ???
EDIT: This would be the skip tooth version ,72jgx-72 3/8 .050 72, of this 72lgx-72 3/8 .050 72 ??


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## Thistle (Dec 2, 2012)

HDRock said:


> So, is the idea with the skip tooth, to clear out the chips better ???


 

Yup. In long cuts and/or big wood.Gives you a little more engine power too.Quicker to sharpen with 1/3rd less teeth.


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## bogydave (Dec 2, 2012)

I tried a skip tooth on my 20" 60 cc saw. Not impressed. Went back to full comp.
Skip tooth on a 24" -  28" bar maybe but a 60 cc saw has plenty of power for a full chisel 20" ,
If you Mod'd your 61 , even more power, no trouble with a full comp chisel. Will cut amazing


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## HDRock (Dec 2, 2012)

When I go here and search, husqvarna, 61, 20", 3/8, .050
http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=OCS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG
Why does it list 8 and 7 under sprocket
Thanks for answering , questions that are probably fundamental to you all


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## HDRock (Dec 2, 2012)

bogydave said:


> I tried a skip tooth on my 20" 60 cc saw. Not impressed. Went back to full comp.
> Skip tooth on a 24" - 28" bar maybe but a 60 cc saw has plenty of power for a full chisel 20" ,
> If you Mod'd your 61 , even more power, no trouble with a full comp chisel. Will cut amazing


 

Examples of Mods, I could do ???

Hay, myway is any of this helping U , cuz this is your thread  I don't want to take over your thread .
I could take my questions elsewhere


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## Thistle (Dec 2, 2012)

bogydave said:


> I tried a skip tooth on my 20" 60 cc saw. Not impressed. Went back to full comp.
> Skip tooth on a 24" - 28" bar maybe but a 60 cc saw has plenty of power for a full chisel 20" ,
> If you Mod'd your 61 , even more power, no trouble with a full comp chisel. Will cut amazing


 

That's why most will say skip on bars 24" & longer.Especially in dense hardwoods.Sure helps with Honey Locust & Hickory etc.It dont make any difference on 20" though,can even slow you down.My Super 380 is rated for 24" b/c & pulls even 24" full comp with authority.But except for about a 2 week period back in August I've kept that 20 on it since it was new almost 13 yrs ago. Because a 24 dont fit in the case & I get higher chain speed with the 20.Saw is so lightweight compared to the old Mac PM 610 it replaced,its a bit 'nose-heavy' with longer bar.


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## TreePointer (Dec 2, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Examples of Mods, I could do ???
> 
> Hay, myway is any of this helping U , cuz this is your thread  I don't want to take over your thread .
> I could take my questions elsewhere


 
Mods: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/how-do-i-mod-my-saw.95300/


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## mywaynow (Dec 2, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Examples of Mods, I could do ???
> 
> Hay, myway is any of this helping U , cuz this is your thread  I don't want to take over your thread .
> I could take my questions elsewhere


 Any information is good information.  I know who to pay more attention to as well.


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## bogydave (Dec 2, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Examples of Mods, I could do ???


 
Thought you had a Husqy 61  modified in your signature
"Husky Mod. 61, 20" 

Must mean model 61.
I have a 1982 , Husqy 61.   I ran a full comp chisel chain on it for years just fine. Now my back up saw. No mod needed 
Just put a full chisel on it & go cut some wood, allot faster


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## HDRock (Dec 3, 2012)

bogydave said:


> Thought you had a Husqy 61 modified in your signature
> "Husky Mod. 61, 20"
> 
> Must mean model 61.
> ...


 
Ya, model  changed it  
Allot faster,  that's what I'm talking about


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## MasterMech (Dec 3, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Why does it list 8 and 7 under sprocket



Sprockets come in different sizes for a given pitch. & pin or 8 pin (pin = teeth).  The 8 pin will give more chainspeed but at the cost of torque.


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## HDRock (Dec 3, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Sprockets come in different sizes for a given pitch. & pin or 8 pin (pin = teeth). The 8 pin will give more chainspeed but at the cost of torque.


So the sprockets would have to be a different diameter to have the same distance between the teeth, therefor changing the speed ??


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## MasterMech (Dec 3, 2012)

HDRock said:


> So the sprockets would have to be a different diameter to have the same distance between the teeth, therefor changing the speed ??


Correct.


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