# Found A Good Source For 1/2" Ceramic Fiber Board For Baffles, etc



## Nonprophet (Sep 28, 2011)

I know from looking at various threads here on baffles and baffle material that a fair amount of us use 1/2" thick ceramic fiber board baffle material which isn't very easy to find on the secondary market. I need a 14.5"x8.75" piece for my Isle Royale, and I was having a hard time swallowing the $72 dollar plus freight price tag for such a small piece.

I found this source on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-temper..._Protection&hash=item19c90805b2#ht_500wt_1413 where you can get a 3'x2' piece for $50 shipped. For me, that's four pieces the size I need for $50 shipped, not bad at all IMHO. 


NP


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## BrotherBart (Sep 28, 2011)

That is a find. Thanks.


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## Jags (Sep 28, 2011)

An intentional bump to the top.

Nice find on the baffle material.  One more piece of the puzzle in putting that quad back into action (where it belongs)


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## Joey (Sep 28, 2011)

Nice...good info.


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## mhrischuk (Sep 28, 2011)

That's nice but I need a full sheet for my larger hearth. I don't want pieces.


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## begreen (Sep 28, 2011)

This is for a the stove baffle, it would be overkill for hearth insulation.


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## Jags (Sep 28, 2011)

mhrischuk said:
			
		

> That's nice but I need a full sheet for my larger hearth. I don't want pieces.



This is the wrong stuff for hearth construction.  This is the stuff that typically sits above burn tubes (or cat) inside the stove.


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## mhrischuk (Sep 28, 2011)

Jags said:
			
		

> mhrischuk said:
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My mistake. Read it wrong. I used Micor


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## latitude45 (Sep 28, 2011)

Nice find. I know I will need some for next season.  better order now!


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## cmonSTART (Sep 28, 2011)

I bet those would work well in a 30NC.  Might need to trim them a bit though.  

Great find!


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## raybonz (Sep 28, 2011)

Great find NC! Ebay has some good deals at times and can beat many larger retailers.. 

Ray


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## precaud (Sep 29, 2011)

NP, this is not an equivalent product to what your Quad had. This is lower density and much lower abrasion resistance, basically the same as Kaowool M-board. Temp-wise it's fine, but bump a split into it and you'll leave a significant gash. It will not last long unless you have a very tall firebox where there's no chance of wood coming into contact with it.

The stuff you want would be rated 2500-2800F or higher. I spoke to that vendor in the spring, he told me he would have the higher density board in 1/2" thickness available by this fall. You might want to ask him about it.


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## Nonprophet (Sep 29, 2011)

Hi Precaud,

Thanks for the advice. I did talk to the company to explain what I would be using it for, and they told me it would be very near to the density of the board being used in most wood stoves. I asked if they had any that was the same density as the factory Quad stuff in 1/2", and he said they did not, and didn't know if they would be getting any. So I figure that A) all the ceramic fiber boards are fairly fragile (or else we wouldn't need to be replacing them) and so it's a good idea to be careful about not jamming splits up against it no matter which board you're using, B) you're supposed to leave a 3-4 inch gap beneath the burn tubes and the top of your wood for the most efficient burn which should help limit contact with the baffle board, and C) at $12.50 a shot if each piece lasts a couple years I'm ok with that as opposed to $85 a piece from Quadrafire.

I guess I'm a little confused because in another thread (https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/38442/P66/) you said that you had switched out your Skamool baffles (which are harder and denser I think) with Kaowool-M baffles about which you said: 

"Both of my stoves have ceramic fiber baffle boards, though the X33 originally had a Skamol baffle and I replaced it with Kaowool M-board. The fiberboard baffle material fits right in with the concept of lightweight, highly insulating lining materials for the firebox and, in my opinion, itâ€™s the best material for the job. Replace it with just about anything else and youâ€™re emissions will go up, guaranteed."

Have you actually tried any of the board that I just bought? I am curious to see how well it holds up.......

Thanks! 


NP




			
				precaud said:
			
		

> NP, this is not an equivalent product to what your Quad had. This is lower density and much lower abrasion resistance, basically the same as Kaowool M-board. Temp-wise it's fine, but bump a split into it and you'll leave a significant gash. It will not last long unless you have a very tall firebox where there's no chance of wood coming into contact with it.
> 
> The stuff you want would be rated 2500-2800F or higher. I spoke to that vendor in the spring, he told me he would have the higher density board in 1/2" thickness available by this fall. You might want to ask him about it.


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## DexterDay (Sep 29, 2011)

With the gaps in the top of the 30-NC. I figure I will bite. Ordered it last night. Shipping is pricey (more than the board itself/ouch)  I am thinking about just putting it on top of the factory boards. It will cover the gaps, add insulation to the top, and also still be protected by the factory boards (if this is flimsy)

Any thoughts??? Or did I just flush $50 down the toilet? The gap in the middle or sides (depending on how you have it sitting) seems pretty significant.  I would like the heat to stay in the stove ss long as possible. Not escaping through a 1/2" gap. I have read were others have added another board from Englander in the middle/top.  Same idea here.


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## precaud (Sep 29, 2011)

NP,

I switched out the baffle in my X33 from Skamol to M-board (both 1") because it has a very tall firebox and under no circumstances will wood get anywhere near it.



> Have you actually tried any of the board that I just bought? I am curious to see how well it holds up.......



Of course, there's nothing wrong with experimenting. I only wanted to alert you that the material you're getting isn't what you're replacing. The density and abrasion resistance are much less. Ask the vendor for those figures. You will see, it is the same as the M-board.

The vendor is primarily a sales person. I asked him to contact me as soon as they had the higher-density 1/2" board available; he never has.


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## northwinds (Sep 29, 2011)

Still a good find, NP.  Let us know how it works for you.


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## precaud (Sep 29, 2011)

Sorry to differ, but 2300F ceramic fiber board in many thicknesses has been available from numerous sources for years. I paid $33 for a 1"x36"x24" sheet two years ago.

What we really need is to convince someone to stock the higher density board in 1/2" thickness. We know its being made; but noone stocks it. This eBay vendor had no idea the material was being used in woodstoves until I told him so.

BTW, a much cheaper way to protect the standard baffle board and prolong its life is to add a layer if 1/4" Kaowool on top. Some manufacturers started doing that already. It has the added benefit of sealing any gaps around the perimeter of the baffle board.


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## BrotherBart (Sep 29, 2011)

One inch is all over the place. It is a different story for half inch. I have looked for it off and on for four years.


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## precaud (Sep 29, 2011)

BB, I think that's because it has limited usefulness in lower thicknesses; the density isn't high enough to give good dimensional stability, it will warp and sag. And if you don't need dimensional stability, then the blankets offer better insulation properties and cost less. 

Sagging isn't the end of the world, as long as you're willing to replace it more often.


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## Nonprophet (Sep 29, 2011)

DexterDay said:
			
		

> With the gaps in the top of the 30-NC. I figure I will bite. Ordered it last night. Shipping is pricey (more than the board itself/ouch)  I am thinking about just putting it on top of the factory boards. It will cover the gaps, add insulation to the top, and also still be protected by the factory boards (if this is flimsy)
> 
> Any thoughts??? Or did I just flush $50 down the toilet? The gap in the middle or sides (depending on how you have it sitting) seems pretty significant.  I would like the heat to stay in the stove ss long as possible. Not escaping through a 1/2" gap. I have read were others have added another board from Englander in the middle/top.  Same idea here.



I agree that the shipping is spendy, but, if you think about sending a 3 ft x 2ft pice of glass through the mail you get an idea about how they have to package it up. In fact I found a place in Texas that would sell me a similar size and quality piece and they wanted $25 for the fiberboard, a $25 packaging fee, and then another $25+ in shipping.....In fact that's one of the reasons I was excited to find these guys on ebay because their price shipped is the best I'd found anywhere.

I think it should work quite well for what you want it--keep us posted!



NP


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## Nonprophet (Sep 29, 2011)

precaud said:
			
		

> BTW, a much cheaper way to protect the standard baffle board and prolong its life is to add a layer if 1/4" Kaowool on top. Some manufacturers started doing that already. It has the added benefit of sealing any gaps around the perimeter of the baffle board.



For my Isle Royale, I think this should work pretty darned well because A) it's a small piece (15"x9") and B) it's sandwhiched between the solid steel baffle plate and the burn tubes. I'll probably put some fireplace mortar on the back of the piece to help "glue" it to the movable baffle plate--I may also think about putting some wire mesh over the baffle board to help protect it......



NP


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## begreen (Sep 29, 2011)

How about a sheet of 24ga stainless under the board to protect it?


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## BrotherBart (Sep 29, 2011)

BeGreen said:
			
		

> How about a sheet of 24ga stainless under the board to protect it?



I put a piece of 304 thicker than that under it a couple of years ago to see. It warped in no time flat.


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## begreen (Sep 29, 2011)

I was afraid of that, but thought it would at least last a season. Oh well.


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## Nonprophet (Sep 29, 2011)

BeGreen said:
			
		

> How about a sheet of 24ga stainless under the board to protect it?



On the Isle Royale, the baffle board actually sits against the 3/8" thick cast baffle plate that is raised up and down via a lever to facilitate top-loading. Seeing as it has solid metal completely behind it, and burn tubes directly underneath it, I don't think it's going anywhere.  Time will tell, but I think that at least for my application this stuff should work pretty darned well...


NP


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## begreen (Sep 29, 2011)

I suspect you are right. And as an experienced burner you will not be cramming wood in there.


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## DexterDay (Sep 29, 2011)

Nonprophet said:
			
		

> DexterDay said:
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Yep. Will do. Getting cold weather tomorrow and Sat night. Low around 40. Highs around 50. Time to Fire it up. Got the Soot eater last week and my steamer and trivet (looks only-got a whole house humidifier). Spend a lot of money to save money. But in the end, I enjoy the burning of the Pellet stove, Wood stove, and Fireplace. Becomes quite addicting.  

I dont think there will be a world of difference installing this new board. But it will make me feel like I am getting a little better efficiency.  I plan on making it one large piece, that will completely cover the 2 factory boards. Thereby covering the gaps on the sides and the middle. Will definitely keep you posted....


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## BrotherBart (Sep 29, 2011)

DexterDay said:
			
		

> I plan on making it one large piece, that will completely cover the 2 factory boards. Thereby covering the gaps on the sides and the middle. Will definitely keep you posted....



Don't put it on top of the existing boards. You are just gonna block the flow to and around that flame iimpingement preventor welded to the top plate of the stove. Take out the front burn tube, slide the boards out and take a look up there.

An easier way to eliminate the gap is go buy one of those steel rods they sell in different sizes at every hardware store, slide it through a piece of 1/4" stove rope gasket and lay it on one side before putting the boards back in. Whopping cost of four or five bucks.


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## DexterDay (Sep 29, 2011)

BrotherBart said:
			
		

> DexterDay said:
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Gotcha... But why have I heard about other people "adding" another board to fill the gap. Is that 1/2" gonna stop the flow of air?? 

P.S.- That is a serious question.. I am new to this and do not know better. Take all of the advice that Pen and yourself have with this machine, to heart... Thanks BB. I will take a look tomorrow. Already ordered the board. So I guess I have a back-up (a weak back up by some of the posts)  Man. I really have to get some self constraint, when it comes to purchases for any of my stoves. Ugh....


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## BrotherBart (Sep 29, 2011)

People have cut a piece to fill the gap. The two piece makes some sense. It give more if you bump it with a split and if you bust one you only have to replace one. That space is just the pain in the butt. And if you let it separate in the middle it heats up the stove top too hot pretty fast.

Cut a piece of cardboard the size to fill the space over the tubes and I bet you will find you can't get it through the door opening without bending it. Which you won't be able to do with the fiberboard. Two different sized pieces would work better.


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## precaud (Oct 1, 2011)

Just FYI. I've made contact with the vendor again. It turns out this is the material he came up with in response to my request last spring, but had lost my contact info to let me know.

According to his specs, the material is about 20% denser than the Kaowool M board (300-320pcf vs 250-260pcf). It is possible that it is in the same league as what the manufacturers are using. (It would be nice if one of those mfr's would weigh in if they happen to read this...)

Meanwhile, if those of you who get it could compare it to the standard baffle board in your stove, that would be very helpful. If you have access to an accurate scale, please post the weights of identically-sized pieces of each so we can see if we're in the ballpark.

The vendor is ordering new boards soon, they would be available in Nov-Dec, so if we need higher density, now would be the time to figure it out.


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## DexterDay (Oct 6, 2011)

Got it today... BrotherBart. I took my flue out of the top of the stove and cleaned the entire chimney with my soot-eater (Just for practice, so when its cold, I can knock it out). While it was off, I looked at the impingement plate that you were talking about. You said that I wouldn't have the room to lay this piece of Ceramic board over the original 2 boards?? There was over an 1.5". If I lay this board (Cut to size/one piece) on top of the other, it leaves plenty of room for exhaust gases to escape. I swear I read that someone has done this.. It helps cover the side and/or middle gap/gaps. Not going to "Layer" it, but just seems like a viable option.

Either way, if I cant use it as a second layer, I have a viable replacement. I came pretty fast from Az. but it did arrive with a damaged corner. I will not need the corner, but for the price of shipping, it should have arrived flawless...


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## BrotherBart (Oct 6, 2011)

It will be interesting to hear how it works if you put it in the stove. Really.

If I had a piece that size I would cut it to have one piece as large as I could get through the door and another smaller piece that would do the rest of the job.

Let us know.


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## precaud (Oct 6, 2011)

I thought I was posting to this thread, but it ended up being another... here it is again.
---------------------------
I received my sample of 1/2" board from Skyline Components today. It is essentially the same as the Kaowool 2300F M-board. Weight per volume is slightly higher (no doubt there is some batch-to-batch variations) and the surface characteristics are basically the same. See all previous comments about it being easily damaged when hit by wood.

So, yes, the original material is tougher stuff. But as has been said by several posters many times in this group, youâ€™re not supposed to be jamming wood into the secondary tubes and baffle anyway. For those who are willing to cut their own replacement baffle pieces to size, this material presents a very cost-effective alternative to buying pieces from the OEM. And with reasonable care when loading your stove, I see no reason why it shouldnâ€™t last as long as the original material.

PS - I was totally off base when I wrote in an earlier post that the vendor was primarily a salesman. Mr. Li has a PhD and probably has forgotten more about this stuff than Iâ€™ll ever knowâ€¦

PPS - their website is:  http://www.skylinecomponents.com/CeramicFiberInsulation.html


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## Nonprophet (Oct 6, 2011)

I just picked up my piece today, and I cut it and installed it into our Isle Royale. Easy to cut with a sharp razor blade, seems reasonably durable given what it is. For our Isle Royale it's a pretty small piece for the baffle, and it's held in place by 3 burn tubes, so I don't think we'll have any issues with sagging--the only damage I foresee is from jamming logs up into it which hopefully can be avoided. Seeing as I can get an easy 4 baffles for our stove out of one $50 piece (shipped) I'm pretty happy for $12.50 a baffle as opposed to $85 from Quadrafire.

As the season progresses I'll keep people posted on how well the baffle board is holding up.


NP


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## precaud (Oct 6, 2011)

Folks, the vendor, Skyline Components, is interested in developing a new board with better resistance to surface abrasion. It would help if we could send him a sample of damaged material that someone has removed that they can reference to. I think this is a unique opportunity to get high-quality replacement baffle boards at reasonable cost. Noone else has expressed an interest in offering this until now.

If anyone has a piece that they can part with, please send me a PM.


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## joecool85 (Oct 6, 2011)

precaud said:
			
		

> Folks, the vendor, Skyline Components, is interested in developing a new board with better resistance to surface abrasion. It would help if we could send him a sample of damaged material that someone has removed that they can reference to. I think this is a unique opportunity to get high-quality replacement baffle boards at reasonable cost. Noone else has expressed an interest in offering this until now.
> 
> If anyone has a piece that they can part with, please send me a PM.



Neat!  I (hopefully) won't need any for my 17-VL for a while since it is new this year, but it would be nice to have options.


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## northwinds (Oct 7, 2011)

Nonprophet said:
			
		

> I just picked up my piece today, and I cut it and installed it into our Isle Royale. Easy to cut with a sharp razor blade, seems reasonably durable given what it is. For our Isle Royale it's a pretty small piece for the baffle, and it's held in place by 3 burn tubes, so I don't think we'll have any issues with sagging--the only damage I foresee is from jamming logs up into it which hopefully can be avoided. Seeing as I can get an easy 4 baffles for our stove out of one $50 piece (shipped) I'm pretty happy for $12.50 a baffle as opposed to $85 from Quadrafire.
> 
> As the season progresses I'll keep people posted on how well the baffle board is holding up.
> 
> ...



NP,

Did you also cut a piece for the rear opening behind the burn tubes?   The rear piece is meant to be screwed in from 
underneath with two screws.  It's not as deep as the front piece.  Or maybe you already had that piece?


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## Nonprophet (Oct 7, 2011)

northwinds said:
			
		

> Nonprophet said:
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NW,

Yes, the rear piece was still there. It's looking a little worn but it's still intact, so I think I'll leave it alone for now. When it comes to tightening and untightening bolts/screws/etc that have been under extreme temps inside a firebox, I like to err on the side of caution and not mess with it unless I have to because snapped fasteners can present some really unpleasant situations. At least now I have enough material to replace it when I need to.


NP


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## precaud (Dec 31, 2011)

I mentioned previously that a ceramic fiber board manufacturer (Skyline Components) was interested in coming up with a material as good or better than the OEM baffle material. Well I received another sample from Skyline this week. It is about 20% higher density than the previous material (0.607 gm/cm2 vs 0.492 gm/cm2) and has better abrasion resistance because of it. But it is still not the same as the OEM material. This stuff is still somewhat softer and more fibrous. The impression I have is that this is the same material, but the OEM material has been impregnated with a stiffening agent. I'm not saying it is the case, just an impression. The OEM board feels less fibrous to touch; you can see the fibers, but the surface is stiffer.

So we are still looking for someone that has a piece of their original broken baffle board that they can send in for examination. Please PM me if you can help out. We have a motivated supplier, and this is a great opportunity to get a good source for replacement baffle board material at reasonable cost.


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## perry (Jan 31, 2012)

i just broke the board in my englander 13NC. they want $72 for a replacement on thier website. seems high for a 21x10" piece. will the fiber board from this ebay seller work ok in my stove ?.  how is it holding up from you guys that are useing it.


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## precaud (Jan 31, 2012)

This is the one you want, it is higher density than the boards others have bought from him:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-densit..._Security_Fire_Protection&hash=item19cc8c3309

Any way I could get you to send me a piece of your broken board? The company is interested in coming up with a board that has better resistance to abrasion.

(I don't make any $$ from this, I'm just trying to help them).


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## perry (Jan 31, 2012)

i ship tractor parts out weekly  so i can send a piece of the old board.


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## precaud (Feb 1, 2012)

That's great, Perry, thanks. I sent you a PM.


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## Nonprophet (Jan 14, 2013)

Nonprophet said:


> I just picked up my piece today, and I cut it and installed it into our Isle Royale. Easy to cut with a sharp razor blade, seems reasonably durable given what it is. For our Isle Royale it's a pretty small piece for the baffle, and it's held in place by 3 burn tubes, so I don't think we'll have any issues with sagging--the only damage I foresee is from jamming logs up into it which hopefully can be avoided. Seeing as I can get an easy 4 baffles for our stove out of one $50 piece (shipped) I'm pretty happy for $12.50 a baffle as opposed to $85 from Quadrafire.
> 
> As the season progresses I'll keep people posted on how well the baffle board is holding up.
> 
> ...



Just wanted to follow up with a report on how this inexpensive 1/2" baffle board is holding up. We used it in our Isle Royale all last season and for a couple months this season and so far it has held up very well! See pics below.

At first, I was pretty cautious about not jamming splits into it, but as time went on I more or less forgot and "fired at will" when loading. I do have a few decent gouges in the material (the worst one on the left which is about the size of a quarter and maybe 1/8"-1/4" deep), but overall it's holding up very well and I expect it to easily last through this season and likely several more after that. We paid $12.50 for the size piece that we needed ($50 for the whole sheet from feeBay which is large enough for 4 pieces our size) while Quadrafire wanted $85 for one small piece.....So, if you're looking for reasonably-priced 1/2" baffle board I highly recommend this material and vendor!


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## Firegirl (Oct 21, 2013)

Nonprophet said:


> Just wanted to follow up with a report on how this inexpensive 1/2" baffle board is holding up. We used it in our Isle Royale all last season and for a couple months this season and so far it has held up very well! See pics below.
> 
> At first, I was pretty cautious about not jamming splits into it, but as time went on I more or less forgot and "fired at will" when loading. I do have a few decent gouges in the material (the worst one on the left which is about the size of a quarter and maybe 1/8"-1/4" deep), but overall it's holding up very well and I expect it to easily last through this season and likely several more after that. We paid $12.50 for the size piece that we needed ($50 for the whole sheet from feeBay which is large enough for 4 pieces our size) while Quadrafire wanted $85 for one small piece.....So, if you're looking for reasonably-priced 1/2" baffle board I highly recommend this material and vendor!
> 
> [ATTACHl]89467[/ATTACH]


Hi all!  This is an old post but is this product still around? I have another question too. I was foolishly tapping on the fire boards to help with cleaning of the stove as we haven't felt comfortable enough to take off the tubes and a bite size chunk broke off the front left side. Like two small child bites together. Does this warrant a new board? What a dummy I am.Thanks for any advice..Seems to be burning good....but....?

It's a New Englander 30


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## blades (Oct 21, 2013)

You might want to check your yellow pages, maybe the business to business one for a company that builds and repairs kilns and heat treatment units. This is where I have gone in the past to avoid the crazy shipping charges.


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## Firegirl (Oct 21, 2013)

Thanks for the information! What do you think about the quarter (coin) size piece that broke off right at font edge on left side. It's right where the board would just rest on front tube so there's a small gap missing by tube. Should we replace it?  Winter two with the New Englander and just love the giant burn box!


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## gsspike (Sep 21, 2014)

Wow the price of those have doubled in 2 years.  There really isn't any price difference now.


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## webby3650 (Sep 21, 2014)

Firegirl said:


> Thanks for the information! What do you think about the quarter (coin) size piece that broke off right at font edge on left side. It's right where the board would just rest on front tube so there's a small gap missing by tube. Should we replace it?  Winter two with the New Englander and just love the giant burn box!


As long as it's not a huge gap I wouldn't see any reason to replace it.


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## Chuck Pearson (Jan 19, 2015)

precaud said:


> NP, this is not an equivalent product to what your Quad had. This is lower density and much lower abrasion resistance, basically the same as Kaowool M-board. Temp-wise it's fine, but bump a split into it and you'll leave a significant gash. It will not last long unless you have a very tall firebox where there's no chance of wood coming into contact with it.
> 
> The stuff you want would be rated 2500-2800F or higher. I spoke to that vendor in the spring, he told me he would have the higher density board in 1/2" thickness available by this fall. You might want to ask him about it.



This board is not so abrasion resistant but the company that sells the board also sells "rigidizer" that is supposed to provide a protective coating. http://www.skylinecomponents.com/CeramicFiberRigidizer.html I haven't tried it myself. I only have experience with a 3/4" calcium silicate board from another source that flakes and breaks and might make it through the season but isn't good enough that I will use it again.


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## PaulF (Feb 27, 2015)

I have owned an Quada-Fire Isle Royale for 5 years now and been happy with it. I was cleaning out ash today and found  the ceramic baffle material that sits above the burn tubes was broken into 5 pieces and mixed in with the ash. I must have lowered it heavily onto a piece of wood when closing the baffle..

After reading threads about where to get replacement ceramic material, I ordered a piece of B12T12C  from Skyline Components (http://skylinecomponents.com/In-Stock_CeramicFiber.html).

Does anyone have tips on replacing the ceramic material? I assume the burn tubes need to be removed to install it. I also see there is a narrower piece of ceramic on a plate sitting behind the movable baffle plate. That ceramic looks OK, but if I need to replace it, how is it adhered to the stationary plate?

I assume I should not fire my stove until I replace the ceramic under the tubes because the metal above the tubes might get too hot. Is this true, or can the stove be operated safely without the ceramic but would run less efficiently?

PaulF


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## DougA (Feb 27, 2015)

I found a source for 1/2" board a half hours drive away.  I have to pick it up when I am in the area. If it works out after testing on my stove, I will sell it on the 'for sale' section. I want to make sure it is as good as what is supplied by the original mfg. before I sell any.  Prices are incredibly good. Probably going to be a month before I know.


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## blades (Feb 28, 2015)

yes true, it is possible to warp the top of the fire box


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## Irish Reign (Nov 9, 2015)

Be careful as most baffle boards are not just RCF boards.  Many are formed with special chemicals to give them a hardness throughout the board.  This is what allows the board to last over a longer period of time.  Your effort to save money by using straight RCF board or even coating it with rigidizer (colloidal silica) could cost you more money over time as you will need to replace the boards more often.  And if you use too much rigidizer you nullify the boards insulating values creating even more issues.  I would not recommend going outside a local stove shop for insulation materials unless you know they are exact matches.  Ultimately you want your insulation manufactured by Pyrotek, Lynn Mfg or RSI.  They are the three OEM insulation manufacturers in the US.  Be careful with the blanket that goes on top as well.  Many are now being manufactured out of Superwool Plus blankets as they are a superior insulator to RCF blankets.  The density is key - 8 PCF.  Using a lower density will save some $$$ but in the long run will cause problems in your stove.  The OEM engineers specified these materials for a reason...  Not a good idea to try and reinvent the wheel.


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## MattFoley772 (Nov 13, 2015)

Irish Reign said:


> Be careful as most baffle boards are not just RCF boards.  Many are formed with special chemicals to give them a hardness throughout the board.  This is what allows the board to last over a longer period of time.  Your effort to save money by using straight RCF board or even coating it with rigidizer (colloidal silica) could cost you more money over time as you will need to replace the boards more often.  And if you use too much rigidizer you nullify the boards insulating values creating even more issues.  I would not recommend going outside a local stove shop for insulation materials unless you know they are exact matches.  Ultimately you want your insulation manufactured by Pyrotek, Lynn Mfg or RSI.  They are the three OEM insulation manufacturers in the US.  Be careful with the blanket that goes on top as well.  Many are now being manufactured out of Superwool Plus blankets as they are a superior insulator to RCF blankets.  The density is key - 8 PCF.  Using a lower density will save some $$$ but in the long run will cause problems in your stove.  The OEM engineers specified these materials for a reason...  Not a good idea to try and reinvent the wheel.


It would be helpful if previous posters revealed how long their non-dealer replacement boards lasted. How about it, guys?


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## Procrastinator (Oct 1, 2018)

MattFoley772 said:


> It would be helpful if previous posters revealed how long their non-dealer replacement boards lasted. How about it, guys?



Any updates on the life of the replacement boards?

Thanks


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## Tommyz (Oct 10, 2020)

I really need the contact info. For this site .please send me the phone number for this company . Text. Would be best . Tom Sparkle chimney services. 
406 291 5238.  
 Thank you .


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## begreen (Oct 10, 2020)

This is an old thread from 2015. The info is likely out of date. It would be best to start a new thread. Is there a specific stove this is needed for?


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