# Fiskars Super Splitter



## tbuff (Sep 25, 2011)

Hello~

How do you know its time to sharpen your Super Splitter? Do you use the Fiskars Axe Sharpener? Any tips would be great. I love this Axe and want to make sure I take proper care of it.


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## jatoxico (Sep 25, 2011)

Let me say up front I am not an expert, but I have a Fiskars and the ax depends on it's sharpness. Depending on the type of wood and amount of wood you may have to sharpen pretty regularly but only you can say when it ain't cuttin' it  ;-) .

I don't have it but I want the fiskars sharpener, seems like good idea to me. A couple passes before you start in each day just to keep the edge up.


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## pen (Sep 25, 2011)

I have the fiskars sharpener and wasn't impressed with it.  Worked great the first few times but then the teeth soon wore off the sharpening wheel and it's about worthless now.

I realize it is warranted and may take them up on replacing it.

Others have said they really like theirs.  I don't know if their axes get less use or if I received a bad sharpener.

At the end of the day, a careful hand and a bench grinder sharpen mine just fine.

pen


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## CountryBoy19 (Sep 26, 2011)

I rarely sharpen my super splitter. It does depend on a good edge, but it doesn't have to be super sharp.


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## trailmaker (Sep 26, 2011)

I use the Fiskars sharpener before each splitting session.  It works very well and takes less than a minute.


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## Jack768 (Sep 26, 2011)

Very happy with the sharpener -- use it before each session.  Also very happy with the Fiskars, which over the couple of weeks has enabled me to split some really big Irene oak rounds without using wedges.  Amazing what it will do.


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## mayhem (Sep 26, 2011)

My limited use of my X27 told me it had to shaving-sharp in order to be effective as designed.  When it got dull it just wouldn't split anything and I found myself always reaching for my old 6lb conventional splitting maul instead of the Fiskars.  I filed a warranty claim and my new X27 got here a couple weeks ago...still haven't taken it out of the packaging, but I plan to soon...I think I'm putting it off because I don't want to be disappointed.  Going to try it without sharpening at all and see how it works...I have the Fiskras sharpener and it really does put a razor sharp edge on the thing...the old one I had was very soft steel though and the edge dulls right up like nothing...hoping its actually defective and that its not the way they actually make them.


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## tbuff (Sep 26, 2011)

Thank you for all of the helpful replies! I split about 3/4 of a cord with mine and it now looks like I have some small rolled/dented spots on the edge? Will they be removed by sharpening?


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## mecreature (Sep 26, 2011)

I used my X27 over the weekend split some bigger cherry and mulberry. No problem busting it up.

I used the 8lb maul for the last few rounds. It split it but took a lot more energy and more swings. 

This was only my 2nd round of splitting a good bit with the Fiskars but I like it. 

I am going to get a new file and stone and keep it good to go.

The maul and wedges are still in the line up for sure though.


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## Creekyphil (Sep 26, 2011)

I give it 10 strokes in the Fiskars sharper every time I'm taking it out of the shed.  Maybe its just me, but I've found the Fiskars steel to be pretty soft.  I always split up on a stump, and it has never hit the dirt, but the edge does periodically get nicked up pretty good.  Sometimes its just dirt on the surface of the round, but splitting some scrounged hickory, I think it may actually have been the wood itself.  Once in a while I'll take a file to it to work out the bigger irregularities in the edge, and give it a wipe down with some grease.


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## trailmaker (Sep 26, 2011)

I've heard that most axes are sharpened on belt sanders at the factory which can overheat and soften the first few millimeters of the bit.  My fiskars edges do seem to get harder after eight or nine sharpenings,  so maybe the edges are improving after sharpening through the softened metal.


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## Creekyphil (Sep 26, 2011)

I would have thought I'd be through the soft metal long ago if that were the case.  I've got close to 8 cord split by hand on this one.


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## trailmaker (Sep 27, 2011)

Yeah it does seem like you should be through any soft metal.  Maybe my edges seem harder to me because the profile is slowly changing over time rather than any soft metal being removed.


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## mayhem (Sep 27, 2011)

Creekyphil said:
			
		

> I would have thought I'd be through the soft metal long ago if that were the case.  I've got close to 8 cord split by hand on this one.



Call or e-mail Fiskars and request a warranty replacement.  They'll be very happy to accomodate you, but beware...the process took me forever.  Like it was a good 5-6 weeks from my first contact to them till I got my replacement.


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## Cluttermagnet (Sep 28, 2011)

My X27 was not a disappointment. In fact, it seems, so far, to be particularly good at keeping a sharp edge. Between that coating they have on it and that very sharp edge, it has been relatively easy to use- and very effective. I have not had a sharpening tool on it yet. It seems to stand up very well to some fairly tough Oak and I have partially buried it in the dirt when I missed, once or twice. It has stayed sharp and seems to be very forgiving. The edge is just barely beginning to show a few areas that are slightly dulled.

I find my 6lb maul is sometimes better for splitting a round in half, but then the X27 becomes the preferred tool to take the halves down to wedges. Further, the X27 is oftentimes fully up to halving big rounds if swung fast enough.

Would it be OK to try to touch it up with a file? Or would it pay to stay with a carborundum stone?


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## mecreature (Sep 28, 2011)

Cluttermagnet said:
			
		

> My X27 was not a disappointment. In fact, it seems, so far, to be particularly good at keeping a sharp edge. Between that coating they have on it and that very sharp edge, it has been relatively easy to use- and very effective. I have not had a sharpening tool on it yet. It seems to stand up very well to some fairly tough Oak and I have partially buried it in the dirt when I missed, once or twice. It has stayed sharp and seems to be very forgiving. The edge is just barely beginning to show a few areas that are slightly dulled.
> 
> I find my 6lb maul is sometimes better for splitting a round in half, but then the X27 becomes the preferred tool to take the halves down to wedges. Further, the X27 is oftentimes fully up to halving big rounds if swung fast enough.
> 
> Would it be OK to try to touch it up with a file? Or would it pay to stay with a carborundum stone?



I am in the same shoes you are. I have used mine for a bit and it still has a nice edge. 
I have went thru some splits and hit the dirt on several occasions. 
I have been wanting something to maintain the edge and after reading this thread I went to the local True Value. 
I bought a  2 sided honing stone and a couple more small files (same kind I use to knock down the rakers a bit).

Everything I own will soon have a nice sharp edge. 
The grinder will do most of my general coarse sharpening. But some stuff I don't want near the grinder. 

Especially the Fiskars. If I keep a good edge on it, it will be easy to maintain.


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## EJL923 (Sep 29, 2011)

I use quick change sanding discs on my die grinder to sharpen my mower blades.  I find it is much faster than a stone, and not to aggressive like a bench grinder.  it is very hard to heat them up to much, which wont temper the steel.  I have been pretty aggressive with the blades and they are always cool enough to the touch.  I also do that with my hatchet for camping.  You can change the grit depending on how beat up the edge is.  I can actually get a nice edge even when using 24 grit discs.


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## kingston73 (Sep 30, 2011)

I have been using my new x28 for about a month or so now, maybe split a cord, cord and a half so far.  It's doing pretty well but already has a nick in the blade near the top edge that I had to file smooth.  I have the original fiskars sharpener, about 8 or 9 years old so I don't know if they've improved it since then but mine works pretty well.  I like my super splitter so far, it's been used on some big, 20 inch diameter oak, some pine, and some locust and did well with all that.


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## allhandsworking (Oct 1, 2011)

I have the super splitter and love it!  Just found out about the new x27 and would like to try it!  I am 6' and like many others thought the short handle on the super splitter was a negative!  If you have both would you recommend the x27?


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## Mushroom Man (Oct 1, 2011)

I have both the Super Splitter and the X27. I like and use both of them. The X27 is the choice for splitting wedges off around the edge of big stuff. The x27 stroke has more power. I use tires to hold the rounds. This is so effective that I no longer see the point of using a sledge and wedge or maul to split a round down the middle. 

The Super Splitter is the choice for smaller rounds where I want to quarter it and of course can be wielded longer. 

I just finished bucking & splitting 8 bush cords with a hydraulic splitter and a gang of humans. It took six hours. Much faster than the Fiskars.


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## Mass. Wine Guy (Oct 1, 2011)

I have the original version with the shorter handle, but even though I' tall, I don't mind at all. The edge on mine also quickly developed a couple of nicks that have remained. They don't seem to have any effect on how well the axe splits, though. I have the Fiskars sharpener and it is, indeed, pretty cheaply made. But it does put an edge on the blade. I'm not overly impressed with the quality of the steel Fiskars uses, but I like the tool very much.


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## allhandsworking (Oct 1, 2011)

Thanks for the reply


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## nola mike (Oct 3, 2011)

You guys using the fiskars sharpener must be using your axes to split marshmallows.  It'll put an edge on the ax when it's still pretty sharp, but the sharpener is basically a knife sharpener.  After splitting 1/4 cord or so, my edge is in rough shape.  No way the fiskars does anything.  I've started using a drill with a grinding stone to get the blade presentable, and then using a four sided diamond sharpening stone from HF for the rest.  I'll use the fiskars sharpener for the very last step sometimes.


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## pen (Oct 4, 2011)

I'm with Wine and Mike.  Great tool, steel is a bit soft, fiskars sharpener is not very impressive (cheap).  

I like mushroom find that I like both the super splitter and the x27.  Although, I find myself using the x27 more because the longer handle keeps the toes a bit safer in the event that the splitting block gets split.

pen


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## tbuff (Oct 4, 2011)

I tell ya, every time I use this axe I love it more and more. Perfect splitting weather yesterday so I split for about 6 hours straight mostly oak and maple.


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## Badfish740 (Oct 4, 2011)

pen said:
			
		

> I'm with Wine and Mike.  Great tool, steel is a bit soft, fiskars sharpener is not very impressive (cheap).
> 
> I like mushroom find that I like both the super splitter and the x27.  Although, I find myself using the x27 more because the longer handle keeps the toes a bit safer in the event that the splitting block gets split.
> 
> pen



Three words-form, form, and form.  If you swing correctly the Fiskers will crack open some of the toughest rounds with ease, even when the edge is a little subpar.  Practice makes perfect!


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## pen (Oct 4, 2011)

Badfish740 said:
			
		

> Three words-form, form, and form.  If you swing correctly the Fiskers will crack open some of the toughest rounds with ease, even when the edge is a little subpar.  Practice makes perfect!



True statement.  In my case, form isn't the issue I assure you.  Processing around 10-12 cord a year, I've had some practice.  

With my old maul I would never use a splitting block (a block under the piece of wood I want to split).  I'd sharpen it once a year and that was just a touch up.  I used the fiskars 2x on the ground.  The 2nd time left a chip out of it which was nearly the size of my pinky nail.  Since I've used a block under the wood I'm splitting with it.  With the shorter fiskars and having the wood I'm splitting up higher in the air, I've split through both the log I want split and my block and found it closer to my feet than I would hope to see.  I'm not especially tall at 6 foot, but find that I don't have the x27 get any nearer to my feet than I'd want because of the added length.  

What probably concerns me more than anything is the 2 cuts I have in my boots.  They didn't happen from swinging the axe, but rather as it rested by my feet and I bent over to reach for a piece of wood.  Apparently I drug my toe forward and touched the axe.  Went right down to the gore-tex.  These things are sharp.  Steel toes are a good measure in the event of an accident.

pen


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## BlankBlankBlank (Oct 19, 2011)

I don't know about you but I use my Fiskars for splitting the few things that don't fit in the stove because I fell asleep at the splitter.  I've used it on may a log over the past two years and have never sharpened it.  It is still sharp.


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## Bigg_Redd (Oct 19, 2011)

tbuff said:
			
		

> Hello~
> 
> How do you know its time to sharpen your Super Splitter? Do you use the Fiskars Axe Sharpener? Any tips would be great. I love this Axe and want to make sure I take proper care of it.



If you think it needs sharpening, sharpen it.  I just use a big bastard file.


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## Hass (Oct 19, 2011)

EJL923 said:
			
		

> I use quick change sanding discs on my die grinder to sharpen my mower blades.  I find it is much faster than a stone, and not to aggressive like a bench grinder.  it is very hard to heat them up to much, which wont temper the steel.  I have been pretty aggressive with the blades and they are always cool enough to the touch.  I also do that with my hatchet for camping.  You can change the grit depending on how beat up the edge is.  I can actually get a nice edge even when using 24 grit discs.



I use my 4" grinder to sharpen mower blades too.
I use a regular hard grinding wheel to rough it in, get any big dings out since I run over a lot of branches and stones and other stuff you're not supposed to run over. Then I'll hit it with a 80grit blending pad (soft wheel, flap disc, zirconium pad, whatever you want to call it). Then after that I balance it, then make any changes with the blending pad... Then after that I run over it with a 160grit blending pad. Comes out razor sharp. I do the same for all my things that are supposed to be sharp, with the exception of the chainsaw chains... Those are filed 

At my old work, we used scrap stainless sheet bits and made knives/saws and other things out of them using 80grit blending pads after we cut the piece to size. They worked extremely well for cutting through anything that can be cut through. We'd make them out of .024" for thinner stuff, all the way up to .125"... We just used them as tools around the shop instead of a razor blade. Worked really well.


I'd also like to say, that I haven't sharpened my fiskars since I owned it, and I probably split up 1 1/2 cords of Pine with it... and some cottonwood and various random scrounges... I wondered why it seemed more difficult now than it felt before, I thought it was just me. Maybe it's not just me.... I just need to sharpen


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