# What kind of wood stove is this?



## LilDave (Nov 22, 2016)

I just bought this stove and going to install it. the person I bought it from said I could use it inside. any thoughts on this stove would be appreciated looks to have been made by someone.


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## LilDave (Nov 22, 2016)

Bought this wood stove to heat my 1300 square foot house. Only source of heat I have. Could anyone tell me what type of stove this was built to be like? This stove was within my budget and was told it would do the job. New to burning wood. Grew up around stoves when I was a kid other than throwing wood in I know nothing else about them. Any help wood be greatly appreciated.


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## rwhite (Nov 23, 2016)

Unless there is a tag or label on it, it appears to be  locally or home made. It's also a furnace so not sure how it will work in ducted .  where will it sit? They were designed to sit on a concrete floor. Not sure how you will determine hearth requirements and be safe. One of the flues is the chimney and the other is piped into the ductwork. If you have a basement and duct work I would put it there?


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## LilDave (Nov 23, 2016)

rwhite said:


> Unless there is a tag or label on it, it appears to be  locally or home made. It's also a furnace so not sure how it will work in ducted .  where will it sit? They were designed to sit on a concrete floor. Not sure how you will determine hearth requirements and be safe. One of the flues is the chimney and the other is piped into the ductwork. If you have a basement and duct work I would put it there?


I don't have a basement but that's where the guy I bought it from had it. it would have to set inside the house where the lined masonry chimney is. the chimney was built in the 90s.


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## pen (Nov 23, 2016)

LilDave said:


> I don't have a basement but that's where the guy I bought it from had it. it would have to set inside the house where the lined masonry chimney is. the chimney was built in the 90s.



Before investing too much money on what appears to be a non-UL approved wood stove, make sure your homeowners insurance is OK with you installing this stove, or any stove, even UL approved.  

Without their OK on an installation, an accident might not be covered.

I had a heck of a good heater that was not UL approved, but wanted to switch insurance companies to save money and found it cheaper to get a different modern stove (I bought it used on Craigslist) that was UL approved and made the insurance company happy, than keeping the one insurance company that would allow me to keep using my old beast.  

If you are OK to install this, then you will be following the maximum requirements for NFPA 211 installations such as 36 inch clearance to combustibles, a very large hearth pad,,, gotta add some sort of legs, etc.  

Good luck,

pen


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## LilDave (Nov 23, 2016)

pen said:


> Before investing too much money on what appears to be a non-UL approved wood stove, make sure your homeowners insurance is OK with you installing this stove, or any stove, even UL approved.
> 
> Without their OK on an installation, an accident might not be covered.
> 
> ...


The firebox is 10" from the floor inside the jacket. the bottom doesn't get hot is what I was told and that you could touch the jacket without getting burnt. which was one of my concerns I have two toddlers in the house.


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## rwhite (Nov 23, 2016)

So if the outer jacket doesn't get hot are you just planning on heating with it by using the blower and blowing the hot air out the duct pipe?


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## LilDave (Nov 23, 2016)

rwhite said:


> So if the outer jacket doesn't get hot are you just planning on heating with it by using the blower and blowing the hot air out the duct pipe?


Yeah would like to have it blowing threw the ductwork of the house.


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## LilDave (Nov 23, 2016)

The dimensions of the inside of the stove are 30"deep x 22 1/2"wide x 19" high but only 14" high at the back there is a piece of steel under the outlet that sticks out 12" all the way across the back.


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## LilDave (Nov 23, 2016)

The outside of the stove dimensions are 32" deep x 29" wide x 40" high.


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## LilDave (Nov 23, 2016)

LilDave said:


> The outside of the stove dimensions are 32" deep x 29" wide x 40" high.


That's not counting the feed door or blower for the outside depth.


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## rwhite (Nov 24, 2016)

Under normal circumstances you may be fine. But how hot does the outer jacket get if the power goes out ?  The hearth requirements would worry me.


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## LilDave (Nov 24, 2016)

rwhite said:


> Under normal circumstances you may be fine. But how hot does the outer jacket get if the power goes out ?  The hearth requirements would worry me.


I'm not sure haven't got to try it. going to put it in today. hopefully have the first fire in it tonight to see how it does.


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## bholler (Nov 24, 2016)

LilDave said:


> I'm not sure haven't got to try it. going to put it in today. hopefully have the first fire in it tonight to see how it does.


Did you check with your insurance company?  Did you have the chimney inspected?  Are you sure the wall pass thru is done correctly?  What hearth is it going on?  What clearances do you have?


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## LilDave (Nov 24, 2016)

bholler said:


> Did you check with your insurance company?  Did you have the chimney inspected?  Are you sure the wall pass thru is done correctly?  What hearth is it going on?  What clearances do you have?


I rent the house the owner said I could put it in. It is a masonry chimney built in the 90s but put a ss liner insulated in it. The chimney looks good it was a fireplace with a insert in it but the insert is not in it anymore. The wood stove where I have it has 4 1/2 foot of clearance from both walls on each side. will set 3 foot from the front of the brick fireplace. My uncle said I could just put the pad down from lowes it's some type of board wrapped with a thin piece of metal. The bottom of the firebox inside the jacket is 1 foot above that with firebrick in the bottom setting on there side so the wood will be burning on top of that so that adds 4 inches from the fire to the bottom of the firebox.


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## bholler (Nov 24, 2016)

LilDave said:


> I rent the house the owner said I could put it in. It is a masonry chimney built in the 90s but put a ss liner insulated in it. The chimney looks good it was a fireplace with a insert in it but the insert is not in it anymore. The wood stove where I have it has 4 1/2 foot of clearance from both walls on each side


That all sounds good



LilDave said:


> My uncle said I could just put the pad down from lowes it's some type of board wrapped with a thin piece of metal.


That is nowhere near good enough I would say you need at least 4 pieces of cement board under it.  And make sure you have at least 16" in front and about the same on the sides


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## bholler (Nov 24, 2016)

LilDave said:


> The bottom of the firebox inside the jacket is 1 foot above that with firebrick in the bottom setting on there side so the wood will be burning on top of that so that adds 4 inches from the fire to the bottom of the firebox.


Why are there firebrick on their side inthere?  That is just crazy


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## LilDave (Nov 24, 2016)

This will be the only source for heat there is no electric furnace in the house it was took out. They put in a heat pump that runs off of propane which the tank is out of date. I moved in here last January and only used space heaters to heat with and it didn't get very warm still had to have warm clothes on. The electric bill was outrageous. So trying to get ready for the cold this year. We live in NC around pilot mountain area it doesn't get below zero here but usually in the low 20s.


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## LilDave (Nov 24, 2016)

bholler said:


> Why are there firebrick on their side inthere?  That is just crazy


It doesn't have a great in it use to but the last owner took it out. it has a ash pan so I put the firebrick on its side to get up to where the great use to be. So I'll be shoveling the ashes out.


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## bholler (Nov 24, 2016)

LilDave said:


> It doesn't have a great in it use to but the last owner took it out. it has a ash pan so I put the firebrick on its side to get up to where the great use to be. So I'll be shoveling the ashes out.


For wood you dont want a grate anyway


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## LilDave (Nov 24, 2016)

The house is 1300 square feet. I'll be running it into the ductwork will be some what of a eye sore. Going to connect it threw one of the vents and block of the furnace so it will blow threw the house vents. The ductwork under the house has 6" pipe running to the vents on this addon section which connect to the main duct. The main duct is 4" from top to bottom and 12" wide.


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## LilDave (Nov 24, 2016)

It has one blower it's a Dayton 4C565A


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## LilDave (Nov 24, 2016)

The house is a 1980 something i think it was a 14 X 80 single wide that has a livingroom and two other rooms built onto it. The built on livingroom has the fireplace. it was all built in the 90s and the whole house has a block foundation all the way around. Replaced all windows with double pane has vinyl siding on it and shingled roof.


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## begreen (Nov 24, 2016)

Looks stout and homemade. No legs which means it would need to be setup on a totally non-combustible platform (maybe made out of cement blocks) or used on a cement slab floor. Clearances for unlisted stoves are 36" in all directions to any and all combustibles.


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## rwhite (Nov 25, 2016)

Since it is a pretty large stove I'm curious how you ran the pipe from the from flue to the chimney. Seems like it would need a lot of strange bends.


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## LilDave (Nov 25, 2016)

rwhite said:


> Since it is a pretty large stove I'm curious how you ran the pipe from the from flue to the chimney. Seems like it would need a lot of strange bends.


Wasn't to bad the liner is some what flexible. so I ended up using two elbows slightly bent just because the flue coming from the stove was a little higher than the front of the fireplace. The other is a 90 to hook to the liner.


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## bholler (Nov 25, 2016)

LilDave said:


> Wasn't to bad the liner is some what flexible. so I ended up using two elbows slightly bent just because the flue coming from the stove was a little higher than the front of the fireplace. The other is a 90 to hook to the liner.


so your pipe runs down hill?  I foresee many performance issues in your future.


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## blades (Nov 25, 2016)

yep hot exhaust gases do not lke down hill slopes.


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## LilDave (Nov 25, 2016)

bholler said:


> so your pipe runs down hill?  I foresee many performance issues in your future.


I'll post a pic of it later. it's not too bad but isn't what I wanted but no choice.


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## bholler (Nov 26, 2016)

LilDave said:


> I'll post a pic of it later. it's not too bad but isn't what I wanted but no choice.


there are always choices.  It may not work at all


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## dlj (Nov 26, 2016)

bholler said:


> there are always choices.  It may not work at all



I wouldn't get quite so doom and gloom... Running downhill a bit may not have any noticeable impact on the stove's performance.  I've had to do that numerous times in the past and not run into problems. My current stove actually has a valve in it that switches the gas flow from straight out the back of the stove into the chimney, to running the gas flow down, under the base of the stove, and then back up the outside to run into the chimney. If you have good draft in your chimney, that set-up should be fine.

dj


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## bholler (Nov 26, 2016)

dlj said:


> I wouldn't get quite so doom and gloom... Running downhill a bit may not have any noticeable impact on the stove's performance. I've had to do that numerous times in the past and not run into problems. My current stove actually has a valve in it that switches the gas flow from straight out the back of the stove into the chimney, to running the gas flow down, under the base of the stove, and then back up the outside to run into the chimney. If you have good draft in your chimney, that set-up should be fine.


I did say may not work if you didnt notice I know it can work but more often than not it will cause problems.  And your stove is designed to work like that his is not.


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## Scott321968 (Nov 26, 2016)

LilDave said:


> I'll post a pic of it later. it's not too bad but isn't what I wanted but no choice.


Just make sure you open the dampers a little while before reloading wood. If the chimneys hot, it should draft. If you don't your gonna get smoke.


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## rwhite (Nov 26, 2016)

I'm just seeing a 30" tall stove + another 12" elbow then sloped downward 12" to another elbow. All this in an unlisted stove sitting on cinder block. I'm being critical because bad things happen when you monkey with fire. I think I'm more frustrated with a landlord that rents a home with no heat and forces a guy into doing something like this.

Off my soap box now


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## dlj (Nov 26, 2016)

rwhite said:


> I'm just seeing a 30" tall stove + another 12" elbow then sloped downward 12" to another elbow. All this in an unlisted stove sitting on cinder block. I'm being critical because bad things happen when you monkey with fire. I think I'm more frustrated with a landlord that rents a home with no heat and forces a guy into doing something like this.
> 
> Off my soap box now



You are certainly right about playing with fire! And I'm 100% with you on the landlord/no heat .... The devil is in the details on this. Sounded like the down hill run was very small. If it's a foot as you are thinking here, that would be tough to start a fire in... A couple inches wouldn't be much of an issue, what I was thinking from his description. He definitely needs to make sure the hearth and clearances are done right. Make sure the pipe joints are sealed and either screwed or riveted together. CO detector is a must - haven't heard about him putting that in. It is good to be cautious about installing a burning fire inside your house...

dj


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## begreen (Nov 27, 2016)

There are too many possible ways for this to go wrong from what we've been told so far. Besides not to code, and running hot pipes into the defunct hvac system vents I am concern about draft. I don't expect it to be very strong in a short, mobile home chimney. If it drafts that will be surprising, but even if it does my concern would be about it reversing as the stove cools down. No one has mentioned that this stove is illegal to put in a mobile home, but that is another story. Most troubling is that there are children in the house too.


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## bholler (Nov 27, 2016)

begreen said:


> No one has mentioned that this stove is illegal to put in a mobile home, but that is another story. Most troubling is that there are children in the house too.


I overlooked that because it has several permanent additions on it and since this is going into a masonry fireplace I assumed it was in one of those additions.  But I guess   I should not assume anything


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## fbelec (Nov 28, 2016)

that sounds like multiple c/o detectors. is your family's life worth it?


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## LilDave (Dec 4, 2016)

bholler said:


> I overlooked that because it has several permanent additions on it and since this is going into a masonry fireplace I assumed it was in one of those additions.  But I guess   I should not assume anything


Yes it is in a addition not the actual mobile home


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## LilDave (Dec 4, 2016)

dlj said:


> You are certainly right about playing with fire! And I'm 100% with you on the landlord/no heat .... The devil is in the details on this. Sounded like the down hill run was very small. If it's a foot as you are thinking here, that would be tough to start a fire in... A couple inches wouldn't be much of an issue, what I was thinking from his description. He definitely needs to make sure the hearth and clearances are done right. Make sure the pipe joints are sealed and either screwed or riveted together. CO detector is a must - haven't heard about him putting that in. It is good to be cautious about installing a burning fire inside your house...
> 
> dj


There are CO detectors all through the house. I put them in. every joint is screwed together and sealed to the top. It is a 2" drop. The stove is in and hooked up been drafting good no problems this far. starting to think it's to much stove for this house tho. 4 pieces of wood and it is over 90 degrees in the house and that's keeping the thermostat on the pipe in the yellow between 300 and 500.


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## LilDave (Dec 4, 2016)

fbelec said:


> that sounds like multiple c/o detectors. is your family's life worth it?


I wouldn't put it in if I didn't think it was safe. I have CO detectors installed.


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## LilDave (Dec 4, 2016)

begreen said:


> There are too many possible ways for this to go wrong from what we've been told so far. Besides not to code, and running hot pipes into the defunct hvac system vents I am concern about draft. I don't expect it to be very strong in a short, mobile home chimney. If it drafts that will be surprising, but even if it does my concern would be about it reversing as the stove cools down. No one has mentioned that this stove is illegal to put in a mobile home, but that is another story. Most troubling is that there are children in the house too.


It has drafted good so far no reversing when it cools down. it's a masonry chimney that was built when the add-on was built with a new liner in it now. it's 15 foot tall higher than anything with in 10 foot of it.  My children are my number one concern. That's why I done everything to make this as safe as possible. to keep them warm when it is cold.


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## begreen (Dec 4, 2016)

God bless you Dave. Keep those smoke and CO detectors in good working condition.


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