# Used Jotul F500 Oslo



## hardcore (Feb 3, 2009)

I have been on the hunt for a wood stove for a while now.  I missed the best time to buy stoves for a Canadian and that was in the summer when our dollar was on par with the U.S.  Now the prices are back up and I just can't afford the stove I want, which is either the Jotul F400 or F500 in an enamel finish.

I found a deal on a used jotul f500 purchased in 2002 which looks brand new and has the blue/black enamel.  The person is selling because they are farmers and want to switch to a grain stove for obvious reasons.   The stove looks mint, but I was wondering if there are many reasons why one should avoid purchasing used stoves?  I guess that is the chance with buying used, but the stove comes with a rear heat sheild and insulated stove pipe and no taxes all for about $800 less than the "base" price of the exact same stove new.

You may say, why not just look at it and inspect it?  I in northern canada, so the drive is about 5 hours to his farm.  It is a long ways to go for a stove only to find out it isn't in good shape, but the pictures look great and he sounds like a trustworthy fellow.

Anyways, just looking for some input.

Thanks


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## firefighterjake (Feb 3, 2009)

Hopefully more experienced folks will chime in here to offer you some advice on buying used stoves . . . what to look for, if this is a good deal, etc.

I do know that if you've got a long drive you should probably ask the guy to e-mail you some pics of the stove -- front, back, sides and most of all from inside. Look for cracks, look for warping of parts which may indicate overfiring . . . posting pics here if you get them can also result in folks giving opinions.


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## WOODBUTCHER (Feb 3, 2009)

Maybe ask for some pics of the baffle and heat tube area, I dont know if the F500 2002 model had a vermicullite baffle (very brittle) either way if it has a cast iron baffle you want to make sure there is no warpage.
Somepics of the top, sides and rear flue collar would help also........a shot with all the doors open would be nice too.

GoodLuck
WB


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## downeast (Feb 3, 2009)

That's one long ride to check out a stove ! Pics may help some, but will not really show tiny cracks, loss of seam cement, tube deformation, or door problems.

On larger, more $$$ used buys more than a couple of hours away, we've had the seller come 1/2 way to meet us. If the farmer is honest and feels that the stove is in perfect shape, he may agree. Bring a strong flashlight to look the stove over carefully and a strong friend.

How about calling up Jotul dealers and asking for "scratch and dent" or returned stoves ? If possible, wait until spring, when dealers want to sell inventory.


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## 80s Burnout (Feb 3, 2009)

Perhaps he could video tape the dollar bill test on the doors and send it to you?


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## hardcore (Feb 3, 2009)

What is the dollar bill test?   Thanks for the opinions... I have emailed asking for some more pictures and then I will post them here.


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## hardcore (Feb 4, 2009)

Here are some pictures of the Stove.  Besides being a wee bit dirty, it looks like it is in great shape.  Are there any other pictures I should request?  What about the burn tubes?  What are the parts that generally fail on jotuls?

Thanks again


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## hardcore (Feb 4, 2009)

Okay, just read this in the manual...

Use of the left side load door is prohibited in alcove or
corner installations. Use Side Door Lock Kit # 155850.

Does that mean I can't use the side load door even if I have 18" but it is installed in a corner? 
That was one of the features that really drew me towards the f500....


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## gibson (Feb 4, 2009)

That is a good looking stove bring $500 less in cash and hand it to him take it or leave it...


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## TheFlame (Feb 4, 2009)

That stove looks familiar.

Get a picture of the burn tube and baffles.  If they're not warped I'd say it's a buy.

I'm not sure what the price is, but keep in mind that that stove went for about $2000 USD brand new back in 2002.  It's pretty easy to get 10% or so off as well, depending on the time of year.


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## begreen (Feb 4, 2009)

Double check current local prices. This is a good time to look for discounts. I think we recently had a posting that Jotul had a sale on now. 

However, the stove looks good. Even the ashpan gasket looks pretty fresh. I'm a little concerned about the source of the rusty hearth pad and would like to know what's up with that. But as long as this has not affected the stove, the Jotul looks promising.


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## hardcore (Feb 4, 2009)

Okay, I have checked prices on these stoves like crazy.  These are all Canadian Prices so keep that in mind.  Local prices are anywhere from $2800 - $3300 + tax for just the basic stove in the enamel finish.

Best price on the stove I have gotten was $2599 + tax in blue/black enamel.

Not sure how much the heat shield costs, but that would add a bit I'm sure as well and this used jotul comes with it.  Price of the used jotul f500 is $2000 and it comes with the stove pipe and heat shield.  He seems pretty firm on his price.

Basically, I don't really need the stove until next winter.  I wonder how this economic downturn/recession will affect stove prices?

Thanks for all of your posts and helpful comments!

Ohh ya here is a pic of the burn tubes I forgot to post...


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## gpcollen1 (Feb 4, 2009)

Nothing wrong with buying a used stove at all.  I'd go with cash in hand and buy it on the spot if it looks good.


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## WOODBUTCHER (Feb 4, 2009)

Stove is in really good shape, looks like it uses the 2 piece cast iron baffle and it looks good.
He maybe firm, but with cash in hand ...maybe he'll move.

WB


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## Nonprophet (Feb 4, 2009)

To me, $2,000 doesn't seem like all that great a deal, but then I'm a el cheapo bargain hunter!  I've been searching for a decent used certified stove myself.  We recently found one through a family friend, but I had seen several on Craigslist that were good deals i.e. 5 year old +/- certified stoves with double wall SS pipe for $400-$800.  The good deals don't last long--you really have to lurk on CL and keep checking the new posts.  Maybe you could search your local CL just to get an idea of what used stoves are selling for in your area.  If you don't really need one until next season, that gives you a whole lot of time to find something for a better price........


NP


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## hardcore (Feb 4, 2009)

How much would stove pipe like that cost?  I don't know much about stove pipe, but it looks like it is insulated in the back and not the front.  Looks like maybe 5-6 feet of it.  Also how much do those rear heat shields cost?  I'm thinking a couple hundred.

Thanks again for the comments.


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## WOODBUTCHER (Feb 4, 2009)

Just an FYI, I can get an F500 Blue/Blk new for $2,199.00 here in CT.

WB


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## DAKSY (Feb 4, 2009)

How much would stove pipe like that cost? I don't know much about stove pipe, but it looks like it is insulated in the back and not the front.  Looks like maybe 5-6 feet of it. 

That's single-wall stove pipe with a heat-shield...
22 ga. Single-wall is $10-15 per ft.
Connector Heat shields are about $23 for a 22-42' adjustable lenght...

Also how much do those rear heat shields cost?  I'm thinking a couple hundred.

Oslo rear heat-shield list for $111 new


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## DAKSY (Feb 4, 2009)

Use of the left side load door is prohibited in alcove or
corner installations. Use Side Door Lock Kit # 155850.
Does that mean I can't use the side load door even if I have 18" but it is installed in a corner? 
That was one of the features that really drew me towards the f500....

Actually, a corner does prohibit the use of the side-load option.
I believe Jotul cites this as a "CYA" in case something happens due to the side-load door use...
However, if you can offset the stove on your hearthpad far enough away from combustibles to get
the required side-load door clearances, you should be alright...


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## hardcore (Feb 4, 2009)

WOODBUTCHER said:
			
		

> Just an FYI, I can get an F500 Blue/Blk new for $2,199.00 here in CT.
> 
> WB



with current currency rates, that translates to $2700 CDN + tax.  Basically the same prices I have been getting from Dealers around here.  I'd save at least $800 dollars on this stove buying it used.


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## begreen (Feb 4, 2009)

The stove looks quite good from the pictures. Given that this is going to be a long and expensive 10 hr round trip I would contact the owner and ask directly what is the bottom line. If they are flexible and drop the price enough to cover your time and travel expenses, then it could be a good value. These stoves are built well and should give you many years of good service with minimum upkeep.


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## 80s Burnout (Feb 4, 2009)

The dollar bill test involves closing the doors onto a bill and then seeing if you can pull it through. At tight door should hold the bill except under the hardest of pulling.  I would say $1,200 is a fair price given the age and the pictures.


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## hardcore (Feb 4, 2009)

$1200 turns into about $1500 CDN.   These stoves demand a higher price it seems in Canada than they do in the U.S.  Maybe due to shipping etc.  I'm thinking $1800 is pretty fair offer.


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## f3cbboy (Feb 4, 2009)

i just paid $1800 USD in October for my F3CB.  I don't think you'd be getting a bad deal.  Pics of stove look real nice.  but i do agree with above - would be worth asking for something for your travel time


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## Nonprophet (Feb 4, 2009)

Doing a quick search on Craigslist shows that there are a few used ones for sale right now:

http://goldcountry.craigslist.org/for/1008746581.html

http://newlondon.craigslist.org/for/829964521.html

and there were some other ones that sold but were asking anywhere from $800 up to $1,700 for a dealer demo model.

Hope this helps,

NP


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## hardcore (Feb 4, 2009)

Thanks for all of the comments.

I don't think I will be able to use the side door which is a bit of a downer.   Reading the manual a bit more and the side door requires 36" of space to combustibles.   I was thinking I'd only need 18" of floor protection, but I was wrong.


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## TheFlame (Feb 5, 2009)

Hardcore said:
			
		

> Thanks for all of the comments.
> 
> I don't think I will be able to use the side door which is a bit of a downer.   Reading the manual a bit more and the side door requires 36" of space to combustibles.   I was thinking I'd only need 18" of floor protection, but I was wrong.



When my stove was installed the "inspector" didn't say a thing about the side-load door at all.  I've been burning in a corner installation (14" clearances to corners of stove) for 7 seasons now and personally, I think the side door clearance stuff is a complete crock.  The side door is so much safer to use than the front door, yet requires double the clearance??  Stoves like the Woodstocks ONLY have side load doors and they allow corner installations...

Do what you will, but if it were me I'd install it AND use the side door.  Actually, I do, and I have zero plans of stopping.


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## hardcore (Feb 5, 2009)

TheFlame said:
			
		

> Hardcore said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




I'm not sure I agree with you completely.  These rules are there for liability reasons, not Practibility.   If the insurance company came to check out the result of a fire and found out that the manual for the stove clearly states the side door must be locked in a corner installation and that you need 36" and you had neither of those with an unlocked side door....

Well, to be honest, that is not a gamble I really want to take.

Then on the other hand, you might not have had a fire if you were using the side door.

Either way, I'd like to find out more about these clearances and the reasons for it.  Also, it doesn't really make sense because the manual doesn't state that you need 36" in front of the stove clearance to combustibles.  It only states you need in Canada 18" of floor protection.


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## begreen (Feb 5, 2009)

I think this is because the assumption is that you will have much more than 36" clearance in front of the stove just to be able to access it. If correct, the side door issue is based on having 36" clear when the sidedoor is opened and the corner surface is exposed to raw fire. But in reality, it's not like you're going to leave the door open for long. However, there is always the possibility...


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## hardcore (Feb 5, 2009)

I found this in the manual as well.  It says this many times.  Am I correct to believe that if your Local official accepts the installation even if you don't have the required clearances, then you are okay?  Hmmm... I think we need a lawyer LOL.

Reminder:
Your local officials have final authority in determining if a
proposed installation is acceptable. Any requirement, that is
requested by the local authority having jurisdiction, that is not
specifically addressed in this manual, defaults to NFPA 211, and
local codes in the U.S. or in Canada, CAN/CSA-B365-M and local
codes.


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## firefighterjake (Feb 5, 2009)

Does anyone have an older Oslo manual . . . for some reason I'm thinking that I read here that someone stated the prohibition on the use of the side loading door for corner installs was a relatively new addition to the manual as their manual had no such prohibition.

I'm not saying that I use my side loading door for my corner install . . . but I am thinking that the only two reasons I can think of for the prohibition is a) the concern that if a person were to do a corner install with the closest clearances possible the "raw fire" (I like that term BeGreen) would be relatively close to the wall and b) having a corner install with the closest clearances possible would also result in less hearth space which could be a concern with embers falling on to the hearth, sparks shooting out, etc.


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## hardcore (Feb 5, 2009)

Yes, it is interesting also to point out that stoves like the cumberland gap from quadra fire allow corner installs without very large clearances to combustibles.  I wonder why the change between different brands of stoves.


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