# Fireplace Xtrordinair????



## Greg Ray (Jan 7, 2010)

Has anyone had one of these? We were building a new home and was thinking of installing the 36 Elite wood burner. I thought I could save money not building a masonry fireplace and putting an insert in. Do the Xtrordinair fireplace put out alot of heat and what about the up keep. Anyone have any trouble's with these units?  Catalytic combustor or the baffle plates and the blower. At least it has a 7 year warranty. Thanks


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## Got Wood (Jan 7, 2010)

I have the 44 Elite (same unit just a little bigger). Installed a year ago. My avatar is a picture of my install. I think they look great and it certainly pumps out a significant amount of heat. Thus far I have not had any troubles. One comment though is I do use ALOT of firewood (3 cords thus far this heating season) it seems to be a hungry machine. Some have mentioned issues with pulling in the outside air in cold climates but I have not experienced any problems. The POS system does work - I have less than ideal windows that are very drafty - when the 44 is running with the fan blowing (pressurizing the house) it stops the drafts. It does a nice job of circulating the heat through our house. My furnance rarely kicks on to produce heat and thermostats are set around 58.
All in all, I am very happy with it.

You mentioned upkeep - I dont have experience with any other wood burning units but I dont find the upkeep to be all that much:
* maybe about 1x/week I clean the windows - more or less depending on the quality of wood I burn
* ash clean out - any unit would have this
* vaccum cat about 1/month - just did it yesterday and took all of 2 min
* chimmney cleaning - any unit would require this. Again a pretty simple process
* eventually the Cat will need to be replaced which is a matter of purchasing it (not sure of market cost) - putting a replacment in is simple

Wood burning itself requires work and can be messy. 

If you like the look of a fireplace, this is a solid choice.


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## SpeakEasy (Jan 7, 2010)

I chose the FPX 36 elite for my home. 

In answer to your questions: 

==> It puts out a ton of heat. I've been heating my whole home (about 2000 square feet) with it since Dec. 1. I have a highly efficient natural gas furnace that I use some of the time for various reasons. But my gas bill for Nov. 20 to Dec. 20 (three weeks of which I was using the FPX) was half of what it has been for previous years for the same time period.

==> I've had no trouble with it, but it's only been in service since Dec. 1.

Some additional thoughts:

I'm sure you're right about saving money over building a masonry fireplace, but these things are not cheap! I did the entire installation myself, so I saved money on that. But it is a very complicated installation, and if you're having it professionally installed it will probably be a significant expense.

One of the main reasons I chose this model is that I'm impressed with the manufacturer. I had previously had one of their gas fireplaces and was very impressed with it. The design and the quality control seem to me to be "the best."

When you compare this unit to other, comparable units, look at the weight. This unit weighs 600 lbs. Most of that 600 lbs is, no doubt, the steel box. When that steel heats up it really holds the heat. One of the units I was comparing was only 350 lbs. That's an important difference.

I've noticed, and I've read the experience of others who have noted, that it seems to burn a lot of wood. I think maybe that's part of the trade-off you get when you choose a fireplace rather than a woodstove. I may be wrong about that, but that's what makes sense to me.

You'll have a number of decisions to make when you work through the installation. The location of the blower, which supplies the unit with combustion air and air to heat and circulate to the house, is important, and there are options. The locations of the cool air ducts that supply air to cool the chimney are important, and there are options. Don't make those decisions without a lot of care and consideration. Most of what you need to know is in the installation manual, but there is also information from people who have these units that may be helpful. You can find that information here on hearth.com by looking in reviews and searching for people who have these units.

Finally, be careful to consider what the manual says about the location a mantel, if you intend to use a combustible mantel. The manual calls for you to put a combustible mantel no closer than 23" above the top of the unit. In our house that produced a look that was badly proportioned to our room. It was too high; too close to the ceiling for our taste. We had to decide to use a non-combustible mantel in order to have it be low enough to look right to us.

Hope these thoughts help.

-Speak


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## Greg Ray (Jan 8, 2010)

Thanks, very much for the replies!! Makes me feel alot better, guess I will order the fireplace. Greg


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## bbcooper (Jan 11, 2010)

I am new to this forum, however I have found alot of very helpful info.  I have just ordered a 44 elite from my local dealer and will be framing out the wall for the fireplace this weekend, hopefully having the dealer soon after that do the install!  One of the things that concerned me and it was mentioned in an earlier post was the clearance requirements for a combustable manel.  Is the 23" that they recommend just the company being extremely cautious, do you think you could do any lower and still be safe?  I've gotta make a decision before my stone mason shows up to complete the face.  23" seems awfully high and with us having 8' ceilings is will force us to have a shorter that desired hearth or have a mantel that is mounted way too high.  Any other information that could be passed on would be greatly appreciated, any of ya'll do the framing for the unit yourself?  Thanks and God bless!   Brian


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## SpeakEasy (Jan 11, 2010)

In my case, my code enforcement officer told me that whatever the installation manual stated is what he would hold me to in terms of code. Since the manual stated 23", for me that meant that "code" required 23". I suspect that the manufacturers write the instruction manual with national building code standards in mind, but I may be wrong about that. 

Having said that, the space 12" to 23" above my fireplace does not get really hot. It does seem to me that a combustible mantel would be safe, but what do I know?

-Speak


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## Burner73 (Jan 12, 2010)

I have the FPX36.

Been very happy with the unit.  Live in the Hudson Valley of New York State.  It has been a cold winter and the unit has had no problem keeping up.

Last night was about 10F and hot air blew from the unit all night.  Of course buy morning it was cooled off and oil turned on.  

Heats about 2500 Sq Feet.  Only room in my house that is cold is the one above my garage.  That is more a function of design (non-heated floor, no attic above, and basically five sides exposed to the elements.

Would recommend the unit.

Agreed it likes wood.  However, if you dampen it down you will dramatically cut down on the amount of wood you use.  THe drawback...dirtier glass.

good luck!


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## bbcooper (Jan 12, 2010)

Not trying to sound ignorant but as far as code enforcement goes does that just apply to those living within the city limits of a town or to everybody?  We are on a farm 10 miles from the city limits and I don't think we are under the same "codes" or requirements as those in town?!


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## FPX Dude (Jan 12, 2010)

Hello, my celing a little higher, but nonetheless no problems with my mantle.    Normal room temp underneath cause the blower is forcing air out into the room and not up.  I think I actually have ~ 13" clearance, I thought I'd run it that way and then if I noticed any temp issues or concerns I'd go non-combutable mantle but it's fine.  Just wondering about my insurance coverage since I'm inside the clearance range, but again no temp problems at all.


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## Got Wood (Jan 12, 2010)

Just checked my clearances.... 8' ceilings, clearance from top of face plate to bottom of mantel is 23", hearth hieght is 18" from the floor and is level to the bottom of fireplace with a 19.5" depth. My stone work goes up to the ceiling. 17" clearance on the sides. The 23" to the mantel is alot and certainly an extremely safe clearance - it looks good on my install probably because the stone work goes all the way up to the ceiling. Mantel is Walnut about 4" thick.


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## bbcooper (Jan 12, 2010)

Thanks "Got Wood", that is exactly the dimensions we are looking at doing, an 18" hearth and 8 foot ceilings.  Guess it is hard to tell what it is going to look like without any of it being completed, it seemed like with those dimensions that it was going to make to matel look way too high.  However I really like the look of your set up.  I am going to build a mesquite mantel probably in the range of 4" like your walnut mantel.  Thanks and God bless ya.   Brian


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## Greg Ray (Jan 13, 2010)

You could also go to a stone shop and they can cut a mantel out of stone and polish for you. Thats what I'm going to do.. Does the Xtrordinair have access to the blower and all the electronics  after you install??


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## sierra bob (Jan 13, 2010)

Just another datapoint for you to consider.....

It's been my experience that the Xtrordinair is hit or miss, and if it's a miss it's going to cost you thousands of dollars to replace.

I purchased a home a few years ago that had an Xtrodinair in the living room. Whenever I added more wood, it spilled smoke into the house. Also, when not in use it spilled cold air into the house. Every time we put wood in the fireplace we would need to open all the windows.

I spent a lot of time troubleshooting the problem, and never could resolve it. I reached the conclusion that it had to be replaced. I ended up turning the chase into an alcove, and installing a PE Alderlea free standing stove. I couldn't be happier with the change.

To replace the Xtrordinair you have to tear apart everything in front of it, all the rockwork, tilework, everything. Ran me about $10K.

On the other hand, one of my neighbors loves his Xtrordinair, never had a problem.

On the other other hand, one of the contractors who worked on my job had installed an Xtrordinair in his daughter's living room and had the exact same problems as I had.

The performance seems to be hit or miss.

(And by the way, the Xtrordinair WAS installed properly, I checked when we tore it out.)

The problem with the Xtrordinair (and any zero clearance), is that if you have any problems with the stove, it costs thousands of dollars in masonary, drywall, painting, flooring etc. to fix it. And of course, their warranty doesn't cover any of that. With a free standing stove, you disconnect it and have the stove dealer pick it up.

Here are a couple links to some threads where we tried to troubleshoot the problem. (My Login used to be rjustice4, but I lost my email address and forgot my password, so now I have a new login.)

Just thought I would share what I learned the hard way....

Bob

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/11446/

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/8953/


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## bbcooper (Jan 13, 2010)

Man I hate to hear your horror story, I can only pray that my experience will not turn out the same.  I have research the heck out of this unit, talked to alot of people/owners of this unit and have recieved extremely positive feedback.  I'm not even gonna venture a guess as to why yours turned out the way it did, it sounds like you tried everything possible to get that thing working right, maybe you just got a lemon!!  I feel pretty confindent going with this unit and hopefully i will be able to respond back with positive remarks after having used it for a while!!  God bless.   Brian


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## sierra bob (Jan 13, 2010)

One thing you could do, Brian, is to do a thorough series of fires (for a couple weeks or so) before your mason finishes the job. And perhaps explain to your dealer that they will not receive final payment until the unit passes the tests (i.e. no smoke in the house). This is the approach I was going to use if I went with another zero clearance (such as the BIS units). Of course this won't help if problems emerge down the road, but it should catch problems that occur at install. My unit had problems from Day 1 (I was told that by the original owner and the original dealer), as did the unit that my contractor installed in his daughter's house. Once the unit is all rocked in there is virtually nothing you can do to fix problems....

Bob


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## bbcooper (Jan 13, 2010)

You know, I actually thought about that...... running several fires through it before my mason did his work.  Also since my unit is going to replace a large 8'X9' window unit in our living room that looks out on to the back porch, I though about just putting siding on the framed box that will be on our back porch instead of bricking it.  Thought this might give me access to it from the back side if I did need to get to the unit or the chimney in the future for any reason.  What do ya think??


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## FPX Dude (Jan 13, 2010)

Wow???  Before I pulled the plug on the FPX-36 three years ago, I was doing the research too and didn't see/hear anything like that?  I will get smoke if I open the door to quickly, but I can do that on any stove or insert I've ever seen.  Always, let it pressurize a little bit then watch it and finally open all the way...uh, and of course OPEN the bypass!


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## sierra bob (Jan 13, 2010)

Brian, after seeing what we had to do to get the beast out (it weighs about 500 lbs), I wouldn't count on removing it from the back. Also, whatever you would replace it with would have to fit right into the existing rock work. I considered doing this, but am glad I didn't go that route. In the first of the two threads I posted, there is a photo of the initial install. You can see it's designed to go in from the front. However, if you just wanted to open things up and look around (if you had problems), it would be nice to have the ability to get in from the back. That's how my chase was built, as you can see in the pictures in the first thread.

FPX Dude, it sounds like you're one of the lucky ones. I tried everything (over a period of a couple years), and never could strike a balance that reduced smoke spillage. Some wondered if it had something to do with positive/negative pressures in the house, but I'm happy to say that the new stove has never spilled even a scent of smoke into the house....very happy about that.


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## bbcooper (Jan 13, 2010)

Are there any other xtrordinair owners that also have experienced the problems of smoke spillage?


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## FPX Dude (Jan 13, 2010)

oh yea, my clearances... hearth is 12" high and extends 15", top clearance is 12" to bottom of mantle, side clearance is 8" (to a 2.5" extended column, I dunno how to describe this, but essentially the fpx is recessed 2.5", so there's that clearance on the sides???).    My ceiling is 11' and room size is ~ 21' x 15' (big family room with ceiling fan always running on slow speed), and opens into kitchen of say same size, however the ceiling drops to 9' and then 8'.    

On another note, my cold air return for my furnace is also in family room.  Last week, when I climb on a ladder to replace it I really notice all the "warmer" air at about the 8'-11' level and I'm sure if you have only an 8' ceiling you'll get even more efficiency.


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## Got Wood (Jan 13, 2010)

no smoke spillage issues for me


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## bbcooper (Jan 14, 2010)

FPX dude, do you have a pic of your set up.  I like the idea of having the mantel so close to the fireplace just not sure about the heat on it.  As far as smoke spillage I guess you just have to be careful when opening the unit, slow going and not all at once? Thanks and God bless.  Brian


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## FPX Dude (Jan 14, 2010)

SierraBob, I don't think I was one of the lucky ones...unfortunately, it sounds like you were one of the unlucky ones.  I read thru yer old posts and appeared that you had a much older stove, and pre Travis.  All I've ever known the FPX to be is THE zc fireplace to get if you want the very best (no, I don't want to start a Ford vs. Chevy debate cause we all can justify why we love the ones we got).  I actually consider it more of a stove than a fireplace, and have had this recommended to me by a friend who put one in, and I've recommended the same for others locally.  Of all these ~ 5, noone has ever mentioned smoke spillage.  My install was not perfect either and I've had to make adjustments to using it, such as opening the door probably slower than most, but once you figure that out then you'll remember.  I'm a sponge/surfer to all the knowledge the experts have here and really enjoy learning from all the situations that they provide solutions for.  Like to see a pic of your setup now!

wtx, oh yea, I've got my 52' LCD above mine now and will post those soon...in the meantime, go to the "fpx travis dirty glass" thread here https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/47441/ and see what it kinda looks like.


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## sierra bob (Jan 14, 2010)

FPX Dude, thanks for the input. I've also learned a lot from this forum, and the experiences of its members.

You're right, I had an early model. And was convinced that my unit was a rare "lemon" until about a month ago,  when the mason that was giving me a quote for installing rock around the new stove said that he had talked his daughter into installing an FPX about two years ago, and that it was doing the exact same thing as mine. He was working with the local stove dealer to address the issue, but there wasn't much they could do. Once the unit is installed there isn't much you can do short of complete demolition. I suggested to him that he might want to consider installing chimney exhaust fan, although I'm not sure if you can use those on zero clearance units.

In replacing the stove, I decided against installing another zero clearance because there is nothing you can do if (for some reason) they don't work, or if they wear out down the road. With a free standing stove, you're never more than about $3K from a brand new stove...whereas with a zero clearance you're looking at more like $10K, once you add in masonry, drywall, flooring, the stove, and pipe....

I will post photos showing some of the demo, and of the new install....I've been meaning to do that for the past few weeks.

Bob


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## Burner73 (Jan 15, 2010)

I'll throw a picup of mine in a bit.

As far as the smoke spillage and cold air infiltration goes-

1.  If the chimney is cold there is also a pretty heavy reverse draft due to the fact that the blower duct is used for combustion air.  If you are going to use this unit for the occasional fire then don't get it.  When I do my first light off (door open) the cold air fom outside pours through the "jets" the line the top of the box.  This cold air want to flow from outside to inside my house (neg pressure...so house has less pressure and air wants to seek equilibrium).  One the small bits of wood start to light it smokes.  THe air flow is still in to house at this point...voila- smoke in house.  This can be avoided by preheating chimney (burn something that doesn;t smoke in firebox like a firestarter and heat unit first.  Once smokin wood really gets going (about 1-2minutes) the draft reversing and the smoke is pull up the stack.  Make sure furnace, bathroom vents etc are off.

2.  As I mentioned earlier heat output is AWESOME.

3.  It likes to eat wood so be reday to keep loading it.

4.  My biggest complaint is the marketing BS about external combustion air.  Without a DOUBT this unit pulls air fom inside the house.  THe deal is, since the blower is running it is pushing air into the house which then is used for combustion.  Held a candle in front of unit las night to test and poof...pull the flame right in. If someone can explain how this is not the case I would be elated and would love to be wrong.

5.  Agreed that if you need a new stove or wnt to change it up it is a very big expense.

6.  Ohyeah---if you burn overnight and box if warm to the touch you won;t have any smoke issues on relight.


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## sierra bob (Jan 15, 2010)

Chunk,

I got smoke spillage every time I added wood, even if the fire had been burning for hours. During reloads, the chimney and the chase were certainly warm.

When the chimney was cold, at startup, I used to heat the chimney with a propane torch, or by crumpling up and ingniting a piece of newpaper towards the top. It helped a little, perhaps.

My house has radiant heat, the boiler is under the house, no way for it to compete with the FPX. I used to make sure all bathroom and kitchen fans were off, as well as the dryer. Tried it with no windows open, all windows open, front door open....just about every combination imaginable (I really wanted to find a way to make it work!).

Bob


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## Greg Ray (Jan 15, 2010)

You guys have me second guessing this fireplace now!!


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## Burner73 (Jan 15, 2010)

Oh don't second guess.  this thing rocks. Just like everything there are a few quirks.  As far as smoke in the house...my neighbor has a jotul and on a cold light he smokes up this house like th best of them.

If you are heating a big house 2 floors then the posipressure really does work.  I am convinced if I hada reg stove that relied on radiant / and non-blower induced convective currents I'd be a shiverin.


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## sierra bob (Jan 15, 2010)

Just posted some before and after photos on this thread:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/50694/


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## FPX Dude (Jan 15, 2010)

Agreed...   It's no different than other active threads right now, such as PE T6's heat output or 30 NC's, etc.  everyone now and then there may be something different than what people are expecting.  Find someone locally, or a dealer who may have sold one and can see if you can visit them to see it in action.  Then you can make the decision on whether "the sky is falling" or if you'll like what you're investing in?


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## sierra bob (Jan 15, 2010)

I agree, FPX Dude, it's hard to find the perfect fit...just wanted to share my experiences, for what it's worth.

A couple of other things about the FPX that you may have already considered:

* There was no way to turn the fan on and off manually, it turns off on its own a few hours after a load. This turned out to be an issue for us, because we slept upstairs above the stove, with our headboard adjacent to the chase and it kept us up. We ended up using earplugs. The BIS zero clearance, on the other hand, allows you to turn the fan on or off manually. Perhaps the newer FPX units allow for manual control....

* As was mentioned previously, it consumes a lot of wood....(reminded me of my old '72 LTD with its 400)

* Even when burning with the draft wide open, the glass got all grimed up every time I used it. With my two PE stoves, I clean the glass after anywhere from 15-60 loads, and it really doesn't need it

* When not in use, a ton of cold air poured into the house

There.....I promise not to say any more nasty things about my old FPX....

Bob


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## Greg Ray (Jan 15, 2010)

Bob, How old was your FPX? I talked to the dealer again and he said he had no issues with the smoke coming in the home. But he is selling the FPX also.He also said he had installed about 30 of the FPX's. But I really thank you for sharing your troubles with the fireplace. Thats alot of money to spend for me.


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## Got Wood (Jan 15, 2010)

Personally, I like the look of the FPX and a fireplace in general vs a wood stove. 

I have no regrets at all about installing the FPX. Its not perfect, but I would be shocked if any unit would be.

Sierra Bob has some good points. The one that I had not considered was cost to replace, if needed, down the road. I never intended to replace but it would be costly. The "replaceable parts" that I could fathom needing attention are accessable for me: the Cat and the fan unit (I built access on the outside of my chase when I installed unit).

A switch to shut the fan completely off would be nice, although I would likely never do so. Putting it on its lowest setting is even a rare event for me.

Wood consumption is probably my biggest beef with it - from what I hear on this forum I burn ALOT more wood than most wood stove users in a similar climate. (About 3.5 cords this heating season so far, used as close to 100% of the heat source for the house... furnace kicks in on rare occasion during coldest mornings).

It does kick out a great deal of heat and it is effective at circulating that heat through the house. And it looks great!


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## d.braun28@yahoo.com (Jan 15, 2010)

The P trap is very important to the performance of the 33 or the 44. Make your p trap configuration as long as possible and you will be all good. Insulate the Chase if exterior and have a block off plate.


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## sierra bob (Jan 15, 2010)

I had Model No. 44A-ZC, which was manufactured in September of 1992. Although it had a Travis Industries nameplate, the original dealer suggested that it may have used a design that was developed before the acquisition of FPE by Travis. Not sure how accurate that info is. The dealer mentioned that it had smoke spillage issues from day 1, and that the dealer and the original owner (who is a custom home builder) spent years trying to resolve the issue with no success. I contacted both the dealer and Travis a few years ago, and they said nothing could be done to  improve performance. As I mentioned in an earlier post, my neighbor has two FPE units in his home, of the same vintage, and has never had a problem with them. I also mentioned in an earlier post that a couple of months ago, when I was getting quotes on new rock work, the mason mentioned that he installed an FPE in his daughters house a couple of years ago and she was having the same problems I had with mine. This suggested to me that it might not be an old design vs new design problem.

If your dealer is confident that you won't have a problem, perhaps they will offer a money back guarantee, including labor, to remove and replace the unit and surrounding rock work if there are problems. If they push back on guaranteeing the rock work, perhaps you can run test firings before finishing the masonry.

To put this in perspective, whenever you entered the house after burning the FPX you smelled smoke. With the new T6 stove, I've never smelled the least bit of smoke after about 60 fires....that's what you want to shoot for. You're spending a lot of money on this, why compromise.

Bob


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## sierra bob (Jan 15, 2010)

Not sure if you've had a chance to look at the install instructions for an FPX.

I've included a slide that shows a plumbing diagram for the FPX versus that for the T6.

Bob


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## d.braun28@yahoo.com (Jan 15, 2010)

back in 1992 I bought a used ford F-150 guy that sold it to me said the heat didn't work.
 told me he has tried to fix it for a long time and what do you know the heat did not work. 
Can't fix stupid I guess I should have not bought a truck with a heat issue.


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## sierra bob (Jan 15, 2010)

Got Wood, I agree, the FPX with a nice masonry finish looks great......that was the biggest issue in deciding to go with either a zero clearance or free standing replacement. It took my wife and I months to decide. We kept changing our minds back and forth up until days before we placed the order!


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## sierra bob (Jan 15, 2010)

44 elite, I think what you're saying is that I shouldn't have bought a house with a smoky fireplace.

Unfortunately, it wasn't disclosed in Escrow. I could have probably gone after the seller, but we live in a small town and things don't work that way in a small town.

Being an engineer, I tried to fix the problem instead. Which I finally have.... 

Bob


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## d.braun28@yahoo.com (Jan 15, 2010)

Small town or not if he knew about the issue he should have had it addressed.
Either way I am sure there is a difference in the unit made in 1992 and the unit sold today.
 My 44 elite heats 4200 sqft I could not be happier plus they actually look good!! 
I had issues with the instal and had to fix a few things after it has been rocked in but I planed ahead when I built the house and I had access.
 It was my bad I should have paid more attention when doing the instal but I was building the house at the same time so some details were over looked. Live and learn


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## bbcooper (Jan 15, 2010)

44 elite, you mentioned the importance of the P trap.  From the install manual it appears that the P trap is only necessary in the colder climates.  I'm in west Texas, do you think it is as vital for me to ask my installer to put it in??


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## d.braun28@yahoo.com (Jan 15, 2010)

If it were me I would instal with the P trap.

But i only had problems when it was Neg and I don't this you will ever see those temps down there


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## bbcooper (Jan 15, 2010)

44 elite, you mentioned you planned ahead so as to have access to the unit.  Do you have a door in your chase that allows you to get in to the unit?


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## bbcooper (Jan 15, 2010)

Also, when running the electrical for the blower, did you hard wire it or install an outlet and put a plug on the blower?


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## d.braun28@yahoo.com (Jan 15, 2010)

I built a acces pannel that I have to climb thru


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## d.braun28@yahoo.com (Jan 15, 2010)

Hard wire 

Pm me your Email and I will send you a copy of the owner and Instal manuals


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## sierra bob (Jan 15, 2010)

wtxfire, did you look at the BIS zero clearance units?

They don't use the air cooled approach, and have a manually adjustable blower. I was leaning towards this one, before I decided on the T6.

http://www.securitychimneys.com/pages/fireplace/high_BisTradition.asp?country=us

Or perhaps this one,

http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/0canwood.htm


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## woodhound (Jan 16, 2010)

For those with the 44 and 36, you can get what they call a summer switch from your dealer that will bypass the temp disc so you can start your fan sooner.   Every fpx that goes out the door at our store has one on it.    On the mantel height,  that is code no matter where you live.  If house burns down and they can prove it was the mantel and that is wasn't to code your s.o.l


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## Burner73 (Jan 16, 2010)

I have the summer switch on mine. Works well.  My dealer sells it with it by default.

Bascially, if you use it be sure to turn the switch the the off position once you are up to temp.  It is wiring in parallel with the temp sensor.  If you don;t you are in for a cold morning.

General rule-  Catalytic engaged...summer switch off.

I see a lot of FPX hate mail here. IMHO if you want the asthetics of a fireplace with the heat output of a stove it is the way to go.

'I replaced a gas insert with it and haven't looked back.

Yes it uses a lot of wood.  Yes when the stack is cold smoke may come in due to neg pressure.  AND YES-  the heat output is awesome and truly does get to those "hard to reach places" in your house.


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## bbcooper (Jan 17, 2010)

I'd forgotten about the summer switch, just thought it would be used only in the more seasonal months to bring in some of the nicer outside air.  Didn't think i would use it much, never thought about it being used in the way ya'll described.  Might have to call my dealer and have him order one so they can install it when they put in the unit.  So once you turn the summer switch off, the "thermostat" controlled switch kicks back in?  I am planning on insulated the chimney chase, do ya think that will help keep the chimney warmer and help alleviate some of the neg. pressure and smoke spillage issues???  Thanks and God bless ya'll for all the great info.


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## Chas. (Jan 17, 2010)

I've had my 44Elite since 2003. I haven't had any real smoke issues unless I fire it up without warming the chimney. Ie. operator error. Seeing as it burns pretty much 24/7 when the ambient temps are less than 45* it's not an issue. The unit heats my 2 story 3100 sqft home pretty evenly. When it gets down below 20* heating the outside air takes some efficiency away, but it still works very well. You are correct about removal being a major task. I had a crap-o (technical term) zero clearance removed and the FPX installed one year after building my new home. To see guys working with jackhammers in my brand new family room was a bit disheartening, but very much worth it. I do recommend getting a temp sensor. It takes the guess work out of combustor operation. Here are some before and after pics.


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## bbcooper (Jan 19, 2010)

Firestarter, your unit looks great, I can't imagine having to tear one out!  We framed out the area for the fireplace this weekend, just waiting for the unit come in so dealer can do install.  You mentioned getting a temp sensor to help out with the combustor, could you explain in a little more detail what you're talking about.  What procedure do you use when starting a fire in a cold fireplace? Do use any of the log starter blocks that are available? All responses welcome, God bless.


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## Chas. (Jan 19, 2010)

wtxfire said:
			
		

> Firestarter, your unit looks great, I can't imagine having to tear one out!  We framed out the area for the fireplace this weekend, just waiting for the unit come in so dealer can do install.  You mentioned getting a temp sensor to help out with the combustor, could you explain in a little more detail what you're talking about.  What procedure do you use when starting a fire in a cold fireplace? Do use any of the log starter blocks that are available? All responses welcome, God bless.


Thanks. The job was large to say the least, but it has already paid for itself. The temp sensor I installed is a digital catalytic monitor from Condar.com. The probe goes flue side of the combustor and it takes the guessing out of combustor ignition. It takes some getting used to seeing the temp rise up over 1000*, but the unit is built for it. 
I would suggest NOT using any of the gel firestarter bricks. It is my opinion only, but they produce concentrated heat and will melt your log grate in no time. I have several wood burning friends who have used them for just one season and ended up replacing various cast iron/steel log and ash grates. Not just in an FPX, but other stoves as well. Again, no research, just my opinion. I use sticks from spring and fall yard pickup as kindling. My grate left after the first season and I just load wood in on bricks or coal bed carefully now making sure there is an air gap under front center.
To start a fire in a cold unit I will ignite a piece on newspaper on top of wood by baffle to start a draft. Usually one piece will do it and I can quickly ignite the paper under the pile at same time. You could also try the "top down" fire starting method, but I never mastered that.


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## d.braun28@yahoo.com (Jan 19, 2010)

I use the top down and works great.
 Git rid of the grate. I shovel the ashes to each side and then place new logs on top to get the air below the new splits.
 I am interested in the concor unit, Do you also have the ability to measure the temp stove top. Curious on how the active range on the cat coresponds to the stove top


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## bbcooper (Jan 19, 2010)

Please explain the top down method in some detail!


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## Got Wood (Jan 19, 2010)

There are many ways to get the fire going, personal preference probably rules. For me, stir the ashes bringing to the surface any hot coals(if there are any) and spread them out, then I put in a bottom layer of flat splits or wood working scraps, 1/6 of a super cedar firestarter on top of bottom row in center, put down a layer of small splits or rounds, light the firestarter, put a few splitter scrap pieces around it to give it some wood to burn, then fill the box on top of it all with larger splits and rounds. Works like a charm for me.


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## d.braun28@yahoo.com (Jan 19, 2010)

Top down 

2 big splits east west 
then 3 smaller splits north south 
then a few smaller splits e-w 
top off with kindling and little chunk of super cedar 
works everytime 

Do a search you will find more info if needed


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## bbcooper (Jan 20, 2010)

For you 44 Elite owners, what length of logs/splits do you prefer for your unit.  The Xtrodinair can hold up to 32" logs, seems a little big.  What do ya'll prefer?  Thanks and God bless.  Brian


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## Got Wood (Jan 20, 2010)

I find I like having various lengths. While it can hold up to 32" in the front of the box that is a tough length to handle with stacking and splitting. I like shorter lengths for the north/south loading. For me, variety works.

oh, I tried the true top down starting method this morning - didnt work at all. Going back to my method that gets the fire roaring fast 100% of the time with same effort. Might work for others but for me it was a waste of time


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## d.braun28@yahoo.com (Jan 20, 2010)

Got wood I am with you 
I cut most of my stuff  24 and 18in


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## bbcooper (Jan 26, 2010)

Hey, just wanted to give ya'll an update.  Everything is framed out and ready (except the chimney chase) for the install of my 44 Elite.  The unit just arived at my dealer on Monday, he can't make it over to install until next wed (2/3).  That gives me time to cut the hole in my roof and frame out the chimney chase, been waiting to coordinate this with my roofer so I can have him do the flashing around the chimney.  He's able to come on Monday!  My stone mason is scheduled to show up the day after the unit is installed to do his magic.  I've gotta get down to  the ranch and pick up a load of mesquite that has been cut and is ready to go, as well as get started making my mesquite mantel.  Sure ready to be burning a fire!  God bless.  Brian


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## d.braun28@yahoo.com (Jan 26, 2010)

Post pic's as you go and  I will try to help that your gets installed correctly


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## woodhound001 (Jan 29, 2010)

I have an elite36 and just tonight the blower motor switch started to short out....it started to "hummmm", do I took the switch out and the wire insulation was burning, I then started to move the wires around and something really shorted.  Has anyone seen anything like this?


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## gibson (Jan 30, 2010)

I love the looks of the FPX.  I could see myself putting one in a new construction.  As far as an existing fireplace, I think my Jotul 550 provides a nice alternative.  It is pretty easy to install...heck, I did it myself!


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## SpeakEasy (Jan 30, 2010)

woodhound001 said:
			
		

> I have an elite36 and just tonight the blower motor switch started to short out....it started to "hummmm", do I took the switch out and the wire insulation was burning, I then started to move the wires around and something really shorted.  Has anyone seen anything like this?



Bummer.

I haven't had that problem. 

That pretty much puts your fireplace out of business, doesn't it? What did you do, turn off that circuit on your breaker? 

I wonder if the wires were pinched and compromised when it was first installed? What do you think caused it?


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## woodhound001 (Jan 31, 2010)

Well, I am not 100% sure right now. I took the face plate off and took all the wiring out to take a look. I didn't see any huge signs of arching....I think I might have seen a small one though.

I could not find a wiring schematic for this other than the little they had in the owners guide which is pretty much useless. Here is what I believe happened. I think that 120V comes from the blower where it is hard wired in to the motor variable speed switch. I then believe that the 120 V run to the door switch. When the door is closed the switch lets the current pass through....as the wires and connections look more than just wiring for a contact switch. Looking at the design, the connections of the door switch wires are very close to the back of the steel box that it is in. I think one of these contacts either touched or arced across the wire to the box. The wire has fairly heavy insulation on it, but it is exposed for about 1/8 inch prior to the connection on the switch. I then tried to bend the contact and wire away from the back fo the box a bit. I also noticed that there was a some insulation between the contacts and the back of the box...I am also wonding if somehow there got to be some steel fragments in the insulation that could have caused the arcing as well.

If I had to install this again, I believe I would run a switch next to fire place where the power can be shut down to the blower for whatever reason. I know they hard wire it in so the blower keeps running until the box cools down, but if I had a switch and put tape on it or something where it could not be easily turned off that would be a much better system in the event that something happens electrically or something...in fact I am thinking of doing it anyway this summer.

If any one else sees something like this, let me know what you did to correct it.


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## bbcooper (Feb 1, 2010)

I am having a 44 elite installed on Wednesday.  Instead of hardwiring it I had considered installing a plug or switch that would allow me to disconnect power if needed.  I am going to be dropping the electrical today or tomorrow and i'm still not 100% sure what i'm going to do!?!?  Is there any downside to installing a switch instead of hardwiring it???  Thanks and God bless.


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## bbcooper (Feb 1, 2010)

I am having a 44 elite installed on Wednesday.  Instead of hardwiring it I had considered installing a plug or switch that would allow me to disconnect power if needed.  I am going to be dropping the electrical today or tomorrow and i'm still not 100% sure what i'm going to do!?!?  Is there any downside to installing a switch instead of hardwiring it???


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## woodhound001 (Feb 4, 2010)

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner....personally the only downside I see is that someone could turn this switch off and then the firebox may get too hot...but, I think that if the switch was in a place that not "in the open" or was secured somehow that it could not be turned off, however I think that having a switch to turn off the power I think is a good thing....as in most situations the blower is not on its own circuit.

good luck and enjoy your new fireplace.


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## d.braun28@yahoo.com (Feb 4, 2010)

It's perfect the way it is 
Blower kicks on when she is warming up kicks off when she cools down.
 Simple


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## maverick06 (Feb 5, 2010)

I have a FPX 33 elite. Non cat, no external air. Had it installed maybe 3 years back. It has worked great. No smoke issues other than 1) if I open tthe doors fast without opening the damper I get a puff, but thats my fault. 2) Once it was hot outside 55F or so, and i just light a fire, and the fire went out, the smoke came in, but thats my fault too. The fireplace is great! I didnt hav ethe summer switch installed (didnt know it was an option) But I did have hte switch controlling the blower, but that only worked after the thermostat clicked on. i just bypassed the thermostat. It seemed to take too long for the thermostat to turn on. 

Other suggestions
1) dont bother cleaning the baffel plate, after 3 years i took mine down, it was clean and not fun to take down. 
2) I had to modify the bypass to it didnt jam, this was easy to do, but they fixed the problem, so no concerns anymore.  (here is how, with pics https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/43774/ )

Thats about it, it is a wonderful fireplace and has probably provided 85% of the heating for my house over the last 3 years. I burn just shy of 2 cords a year to heat my 1800 sqft home (some rooms are kept with doors closed) and i live just outside of philadelphia. 

Wonderful fireplace, definitely reccomend! 

Rick


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