# Splice an Extension Cord?



## velvetfoot (Apr 5, 2007)

Well, it happened yesterday.  Cutting some wood near the house with the electric saw, a quick spark, and alas, a damaged extension cord.  I've read that it's not advisable to splice an extension cord, but this is about 12 gauge and almost new.  There should be a way to splice it that is both strong and watertight.  Would anyone have any suggestions?  (PS:  The outlets used are GFI protected.)


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## MrGriz (Apr 5, 2007)

Ok, I can't begin to recomend this as being safe; but it works.

When I lived in the city I took my electric lawn mower for a trip over the cord.  I think it cut that faster and cleaner than it ever went through the grass and weeds.  I didn't have a spare that was long enough so I stripped the wires (to different lengths so the splices would not be next to each other), twisted everything together and wrapped that sucker with 1/2 a roll of electrical tape.

That was seven or eight years ago and it still works fine.  I think I cut the lawn for another year with that cord, until we moved.  Now it's just a spare, hanging in the back of the garage.


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## BrotherBart (Apr 5, 2007)

Yep, like Griz says. I would trim'em offset from each other then crimp appropriate butt splices in, wrap it and rock and roll.

No permit or inspection required.

Sorry Elk.


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## Codeman812 (Apr 5, 2007)

Or you could get the male and female plugs and make 2 cords. Then tape the 2 ends together if you have too. As a bonus you have smaller cords if you dont need the whole length.


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## GVA (Apr 5, 2007)

Yeah what they said
But go over the splices with rubber splicing tape....  It's a bit thicker. and what I would use around burndy's after the mastic.........  Don't ask..... :smirk:


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## BrotherBart (Apr 5, 2007)

GVA said:
			
		

> Yeah what they said
> But go over the splices with rubber splicing tape....  It's a bit thicker. and what I would use around burndy's after the mastic.........  Don't ask..... :smirk:



Got Burndy's in the garage. And a big ass hammer for crimping.


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## GVA (Apr 5, 2007)

Codeman812 said:
			
		

> Or you could get the male and female plugs and make 2 cords. Then tape the 2 ends together if you have too. As a bonus you have smaller cords if you dont need the whole length.


This is what I have to do at work.... Due to OSHA........  At home..also a good idea...... but most likely that short section of cord is less than 3 feet, and not good for much...

EDIT>  I will never lend a cord to a neighbor again after they cut through it with the hedge trimmer........ Yep about 3 feet from the end.....


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## velvetfoot (Apr 5, 2007)

Well it's not like I haven't used the twist and tape method before on another cord, which I also still have, but I'm not feeling that good about it (although no tingly sensations yet   ).  I haven't seen crimp splices for 12 gauge but I haven't looked yet either.  Perhaps some shrink wrap insulation as well.  I wonder how much mechanical strength a crimp splice would have compared to the twist method though - I can only relate to the crimp splices I used on something like a car stereo.


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## GVA (Apr 5, 2007)

12 gauge is yellow on the butt splices........
as far as the splices it's not so much the crimps as it is the crimping tool, that makes a good splice........  Ideal makes some of the best splices and stak-on connectors around........  But still comes down to the crimper and the guy crimping.....


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## restorer (Apr 5, 2007)

Well, you shouldn't, but do the offset splices, seal with  a little solder, shrinkwrap, seal with a little silicone and re-shrink. Remember that the splice is a potential hazard. I wouldn't want to be dragging it in a wet area. Outdoors for cutting stuff I use a #6 wire with outdoor shielding. It's like dragging a tow chain, but it is safe. I have a 150 ft cord, wired 220 Hubbell ends that I can run my table saw outdoors. Pretty freaky to see a saw in the middle of a parking lot ripping 2 X 12's like butter. I really love a 5hp saw. Wiring the DeWalt GE Radial with a 16 inch blade to do the same. Thinking of buying a forklift to move the saws. 

This is sounding like I have a bigger lift on my truck than you do.


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## Codeman812 (Apr 5, 2007)

I actually use the shorter ones for more than I thought I would. Like for my salamanders and drop lights. Sometimes you make things and find a use later. Then other times... 




			
				GVA said:
			
		

> Codeman812 said:
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## velvetfoot (Apr 5, 2007)

Thanks.  I didn't think of silicone.  The challenge is also to keep it flexible too, I suppose, so it can be rolled up.


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## begreen (Apr 5, 2007)

If you use silicone, stay away from the standard variety with acetic acid in it (smells like vinegar). That will eventually corrode connections.


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## restorer (Apr 5, 2007)

BeGreen said:
			
		

> If you use silicone, stay away from the standard variety with acetic acid in it (smells like vinegar). That will eventually corrode connections.



I think there are electrically neutral sealers. You're right about the acidic sealers. I have also used lithium lubs as Ph neutral sealers. The major point is keep the moisture out, period. In the old days we used shellac to seal. Nothing better, nothing more old school.


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## begreen (Apr 5, 2007)

Yes, I think GE Silicone II is neutral.  Personally, I always use raw metal crimps, then solder them for a sure connection. I use marine heat shrink tubing to seal the crimp connection, then tape. There is a marine heat shrink has a glue like liner that seals things up quite nicely.


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## restorer (Apr 5, 2007)

BeGreen said:
			
		

> Yes, I think GE Silicone II is neutral.  Personally, I always use raw metal crimps, then solder them for a sure connection. I use marine heat shrink tubing to seal the crimp connection, then tape. There is a marine heat shrink has a glue like liner that seals things up quite nicely.



Haven't seen the marine grade shrink wrap, but make a lot of sense. Guess it would be at the boat supply store, not the electrical supply store. Will add that to the tool bag.


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## Island-Doc (Apr 5, 2007)

Personally I'd go with the 'two smaller cords' solution but if for some reason you don't want to go that route, the best way to go is to use a waterproof splice block, you can get them at any electrical supply place, basically you screw the wires in at both ends and close it up and you're all set.

Make sure you get one rated for 12 guage wire.

One problem with the splice and tape method is that if you don't get a good enough connection to handle the current (12 guage can handle a lot of current) it will heat up and eventually fail or melt the electrical tape you covered it with.


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## elkimmeg (Apr 5, 2007)

BB Believe it or not the State wants us inspectors to enforce oshsa 

So far they need to fund it for us to enforce it the funding  has not hapened yet

 Most of my tools have repaired cords I have to fail  just about all my own cords and tools


 Boy can people turn a simple repair into  more than what is required. I cut dirrerent lengthe solder the pieces  tape them and tape the cord
 If the tape falls off I tape it again


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## Andre B. (Apr 5, 2007)

Believe it or not there is a name for this kind of wire splice. 
The Western Union splice or Lineman splice.
http://tpub.com/content/neets/14176/css/14176_46.htm

Normally I do not solder the connections I just strip enough wire so that the twisted part of each splice is at least 1" long.
If I do solder it is just a very small amount in the center of the twist.

When wrapping the tape it helps a lot if you can have someone or something put the cord straight and tight so you have both hands free to wrap the tape.  That way you can get the tape stretched properly as it is wrapped so it seals better.

Like Elk says it's not that big a deal.

Now when you run over a 100' cord with a mower and it reels in the whole thing, best just get a new cord. 

Edit:
A pic of a splice that was taken out of service.
http://www.insulators.com/pictures/?id=16043951
Note the center section that provides mechanical strength and the different type of twist at each end provides a bit of strain relief like that coil spring thing on some garden hoses.


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## Bones (Apr 5, 2007)

UncleRich said:
			
		

> BeGreen said:
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Deep well wire connectors,with shrink wrap tubing filled with an RTV.


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## Eric Johnson (Apr 5, 2007)

How about liquid "electrical tape." Comes in a can with a brush and different colors. Paint it on the connections, tape up with regular electrical tape, shrink connection or whatever.


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## Builder Bob (Apr 5, 2007)

I like others above prefer to buy new ends for the cords and have 2 different lenghts.  This way you get a good connection with the new plug ends and the use of a shorter cord.  There are many times a 20 - 35' cord has come in handy around the house.  And if needed, the two can still be plugged into each other.

Bob


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## stoveguy2esw (Apr 5, 2007)

GVA said:
			
		

> Codeman812 said:
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shoot, if you are  only losing 3 ft, just put a new end on and leave it at that , now if cut in the middle (  >   guilty  )  then i'd put a male and female and make 2 cords (which i did)


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## Gooserider (Apr 11, 2007)

My personal preference is to use Western Union splices, staggered as shown earlier.  I solder those splices (use ROSIN CORE solder for electrical work, NEVER use "ACID CORE" plumbing solder!) and cover each with a length of shrink tube.  I also try to preserve the polyester cord "strength member" found in the center of most exterior grade cords, and tie the two ends together so as to minimize the strain on the splices.  I then slide a bigger peice of shrink over the entire splice to seal and protect it.  Use the rubbery FP or FIT 221 spec tube (comes in multiple colors, fairly expensive, usually found at good electronics stores) that will shrink to a very flexible coating, not the hard PVC shrink, (usually black, found at cheap stores and Radio shacks) that hardens to a rigid tube...  Another option that is hard to find, but works really nice is "Tommy Tape" which is a self fusing rubber electrical tape - when you put it on, it will melt together permanently in a very short time (don't make mistakes!) but won't stick to anything but itself.  Works real nicely on "T" connections and other such places where you can't use shrink tube.

I've used the "tape in a can" stuff, also the stuff used to dip tool handles in to coat them...  It sort of works but I would only use it as an under layer with shrink or tape over it, as I found it wasn't possible to get a reliable uniform thickness of coating on it, and bare/thin spots just aren't acceptable.

I don't generally use crimps in an application like this, but they probably would be ok from a mechanical standpoint, I'm just not sure about their ability to seal moisture.  Mechanically, a properly made crimp should be stronger than the wire it's made with, but it all depends on the crimper tool.  *It is NOT POSSIBLE to make a consistent "mil-spec" crimp with the "plier" style multi-function crimp tools you find at the local hardware store! * I've seen folks try it at a former job.  They could not pass the required destructive test that a properly made crimp is supposed to handle - A sample is put on a tensioning machine that pulls until failure - the wire must break other than at the crimp before the crimp pulls out or otherwise fails.  The only tool that will make a good crimp is a ratcheting compound lever tool, preferably regularly calibrated.  I have some of those plier tools, they are tolerable wire strippers, and OK for cutting wire or trimming small screws (if used right)  However one should grind the crimping section away so that you aren't tempted to try using it to make a crimp!  (I also have spent the money to get ratcheting crimpers for anything I use regularly, or I use solder...)

I would also say that the preferable fix is to put appropriate ends on each peice, it is probably safer, and certainly less embarrasing - If you put ends on it then you can claim it was deliberate, but a splice screams "I'm a clumsy person that chopped it... " :red: 

Gooserider
(who has some spliced cords :red: )


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## velvetfoot (Apr 11, 2007)

Thanks everyone.  I used a staggered Western Union splice, some solder, electrical tape on the connections, splicing tape (Tommy tape?) on the outside.  Yeah, it screams "klutz", as long as it's tight and flows enough electrons, I don't care.


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## begreen (Apr 11, 2007)

Sounds good foot. To me if done well, it doesn't scream klutz, it says life restored and back to duty. I have a cord with a 5-6 year old splice that is doing fine. Just make sure that the outer insulation wrap stays tight and in good order.


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## Gooserider (Apr 15, 2007)

BeGreen said:
			
		

> Sounds good foot. To me if done well, it doesn't scream klutz, it says life restored and back to duty. I have a cord with a 5-6 year old splice that is doing fine. Just make sure that the outer insulation wrap stays tight and in good order.



That's why I use shrink on the repair...  The good rubbery mil-spec shrink if properly installed is good and tight, and while it might not pass OSHA, as far as I'm concerned it offers similar strength and protection to the original insulation.  I've even been known to get paranoid and put on two layers of shrink over the entire repair, in which case it may even be thicker insulation than the original.  This gives one layer over each of the spliced wires, (with soldered splices) then two layers over the repair as a whole, for three layers total...  That mil-spec shrink is tough stuff too, when taking apart conections occasionally, I have often found the stock insulation is easier to cut than the shrink.

Gooserider


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## begreen (Apr 15, 2007)

You'll like marine shrink then Goose. It's tough and has hot-melt glue inside. For a really good seal you can follow with a larger shrink around the entire splice.


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## precaud (Apr 16, 2007)

The proper way would be:

Get two sizes of polyolefin heat shrink tubing, one big enough to cover the jacket, the other sized for the individual conductors.
Cut the cable so you're making a clean start on all three wires, even if only one is broken.
Strip the jacket back 3", and each wire's insulation 1 inch or so.
Slip one large piece of heat shrink over each side of the wire, each long enough to cover the repair area plus 1" extra on each end.
Slip a piece of small heatshrink over one side of each conductor to be repaired.
Twist a pair of mating wires tightly together and solder them (flux core electrical solder.) For 12 guage you'll need an 800-900 degree iron and some patience... until the solder flows down into the wires, it's not hot enough.
Use a hairdryer and shrink the tubing over the repaired wire. Make sure no metal is left exposed.
Repeat the previous three steps for each wire.
Now slip one of the large heatshrink pieces over the entire repair, and shrink it down. Make sure there's excess on each end over the jacket to act as a strain relief.
Slip the second large one over the first one and shrink it down.

That's a repair that is as good as or better than new. May even meet mil spec...


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## precaud (Apr 16, 2007)

Ooops, I see you've already done it. I should have read the whole thread first.
Never mind.


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## Gooserider (Apr 16, 2007)

precaud said:
			
		

> The proper way would be:
> 
> Get two sizes of polyolefin heat shrink tubing, one big enough to cover the jacket, the other sized for the individual conductors.
> Cut the cable so you're making a clean start on all three wires, even if only one is broken.
> ...



A good summary of the procedure, though I might argue with your suggestion to cut any undamaged conductors.  I feel that there is no repair that is as good as the original undamaged insulation...  Thus my rule of thumb if I can get shrink on the cord some other way is to carefully disect the cord and examine all wires.  I cut and splice any damaged conductors as you stated.  Undamaged conductors I make an "S" curve to shorten them.  *I also cut or tie a knot in the fiber "strength member" cord so that there will be no strain on the spliced conductor(s)* no matter how I'm making the repair...

Gooserider


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## precaud (Apr 16, 2007)

Gooserider said:
			
		

> A good summary of the procedure, though I might argue with your suggestion to cut any undamaged conductors. I feel that there is no repair that is as good as the original undamaged insulation...


Agreed, and yes that call could go either way. If the cord will be exposed and subject to lots of use then, in my mind, the integrity of the jacket becomes very important. And I've not had luck with shrink tape used that way.



> I also cut or tie a knot in the fiber "strength member" cord so that there will be no strain on the spliced conductor(s)[/b] no matter how I'm making the repair...



That's a good one, Goose.


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## John_M (Oct 29, 2010)

BeGreen and Gooserider +1. 

Here are the products I use for all electric and electronic repairs: http://www.marinco.com/view/96/catalogs

Marinco/Ancor wiring, connectors, crimpers, etc are engineered as a repair "system" for maximum effectiveness in marine and other harsh environments. Their products are among the best and among the most expensive available. I've used their Adhesive Lined Tubing (ALT) to protect butt joints subjected to salt water submersion and in 15 years of boating it has never leaked. I have four or five of their crimpers, including one for heavy gauge battery cable. They are terrific. 

John_M


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## billb3 (Oct 29, 2010)

butt connectors - good crimpers - 33+ electrical tape and rubber tape.

I've tried them all in the marine environment  and the only splices I've taken apart 20 years later that water hadn't gotten to was the above combo.


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## gpcollen1 (Nov 1, 2010)

Good info for a 3.5 yr old thread...


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## Mcbride (Nov 29, 2010)

BeGreen said:
			
		

> Yes, I think GE Silicone II is neutral.  Personally, I always use raw metal crimps, then solder them for a sure connection. I use marine heat shrink tubing to seal the crimp connection, then tape. There is a marine heat shrink has a glue like liner that seals things up quite nicely.




Bingo.


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## fbelec (Nov 30, 2010)

there is a splice kit for underground splicing of uf cable.{underground romex} it looks like a small football. about 5 inches in length. it's strong and waterproof. it sells for about 15 or 20 bucks at a electrical supply house. it may look strange but so will a wad of electrical tape.


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## PJF1313 (Nov 30, 2010)

fbelec said:
			
		

> there is a splice kit for underground splicing of uf cable.{underground romex} it looks like a small football. about 5 inches in length. it's strong and waterproof. it sells for about 15 or 20 bucks at a electrical supply house. it may look strange but so will a wad of electrical tape.



Make sure that you get the right one - there is 2 different types

 DBY or DBR - is a 30volt and LOWER
 DBY6 or DBR6- is a 600 volt and lower - THIS is one you need

DB = Direct Burial
Y/R = Wire Nut Size (3M Nynut [Yellow / Red ] )  the correct size wire nut you will need to make the connection
6  = Maximum voltage (no number = 30; 6= 600 Volt)

The DBY is meant for irrigation and low-voltage lighting. If you use that, instead of the "6"  you will have problems -
maybe not right away, but in 2-5 years, it WILL fail (don't ask me how I know!)

The lower voltage ones are a white color connector body
The high voltage ones are more of a cream/tan color.

The "Y" (or "R") is the size of the wire nut and body.  A "Y" wire nut will fit inside of a "R" body; but not the other way around
(the "Y" [yellow] is physically smaller then the "R" [Red] wire nut/splice)


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## fbelec (Dec 2, 2010)

the one that i'm talking about is the color of a pumpkin but shaped like a football with ridges. the inside is brass insert the wire tighten the screws down onto the wires. no wire nuts. and super water tight.


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## snowleopard (Dec 4, 2010)

GVA said:
			
		

> most likely that short section of cord is less than 3 feet, and not good for much...



Of course there's a need for a three-foot extension cord--and the best way to find that use is to discard the cord.  Takes about a month, usually  . . .


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