# Castile Qudra Fire Pellet Stove - Need advice bad



## castilequadraCO (Dec 1, 2011)

About 2 months ago I was running the stove for the first time of the early fall and it was working good.  One day I had it set for 80 degrees but when I went to turn it down it wouldn't turn do (thermostat controlled).  Actually it started burning out of control, the burn pot was filled with tons of pellets and it kept dropping them like crazy.  It was consistently running 90 degrees and got to a point where it was not safe so I unplugged it since the thermostat wasn't controlling the selected heat.

Every since then I can't get the stove to turn on.  The reset button doesn't activate, actually nothing happens at all.  It is just dead

My question and thought is this - is the control box toast?  Last year I replaced the fan, thermocouple and a few wires.  I don't kno for sure but I can't even get a indication light on the box at all, it is dead.  So, what do you think do I need to replace this old Gray box with an updated version.

It is a 2001 Quadra Fire Castile stove


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 1, 2011)

Hello and welcome!
Since the stove was burning so vigorously and you unplugged it, the convection fan stopped taking out what heat it could.  That probably meant that your safety snap disk #3 tripped.  It can be manually reset by pushing in a small button between the two electrical connectors.  MAKE SURE THE STOVE IS UNPLUGGED  The snap disk you're looking for should be mounted on the back of the auger tube, I believe.  I have the insert version of the Castile and that's where mine is.  There's another snap disk back there (#2) that is mounted on the drop chute.  On some stoves that is also manually reset but on others it isn't.  #3 will kill everything on the stove so that's the one you want to find.  
As to WHY the stove did what it did......???  Is sounds like your auger was running consistently but until you get power back, you really can't troubleshoot.  Check that snap disk and get back to us.
One thing I discovered this fall on mine was that weak batteries in the thermostat (if you have batteries) won't control the stove properly.


----------



## kinsmanstoves (Dec 1, 2011)

I would disconnect the t-stat and connect the wires together and see what happens.  All the t-stat is is a switch.

Eric


----------



## castilequadraCO (Dec 1, 2011)

I was hoping that by jumping the line at the thermostat would indicate that there is fire in the hole - unfortunately there wasn't.  Nothing happens when I connect the 2 wires together.  So I hear about snap discs on here a lot what do these stinkers look like?  The stove has a small round reset button on the back, when I hit it nothing happens at all.  

I don't know why when I do the thermostat jump nothing happens, any thoughts? 

Also, these snap discs, can someone describe them better or post a pic?


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 1, 2011)

yep, that's what they look like.  Take off what panels you have to and feel around on the auger tube to find it.  It will have a button like you see in some of the examples above.  Push it in and you hopefully will feel a snap or click.  
Are you handy with a voltmeter and have one?


----------



## stoveguy13 (Dec 1, 2011)

if you unplug the stove and plug it back indoes the blower turn on?


----------



## castilequadraCO (Dec 1, 2011)

No, nothing happens.  No lights indicating or anything. strange thinking the control box got fried or something


----------



## stoveguy13 (Dec 1, 2011)

First step check for power at outlet second step jump the # 3 snap located on the drop tube if the stove is still dead check the fuse if the stove is still dead i would chage the control board


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 2, 2011)

stoveguy13 said:
			
		

> First step check for power at outlet second step jump the # 3 snap located on the drop tube if the stove is still dead check the fuse if the stove is still dead i would chage the control board



No, unless it's been changed, #3 is on the back of the AUGER TUBE, not the drop tube (that's #2, which stops the feed only).  See if it resets, like I said above.  You never did say if you have a multi-meter'/voltmeter.


----------



## stoveguy13 (Dec 2, 2011)

the auger tube is the drop tube same thing


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 2, 2011)

stoveguy13 said:
			
		

> the auger tube is the drop tube same thing



Not on these stoves.    The auger tube feeds up to the top of the drop tube and then the pellets fall down into the burn pot.  These are top feeders, not bottom feeders.


----------



## stoveguy13 (Dec 2, 2011)

it is called the drop tube because it drops down to the hopper ;-P


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 2, 2011)

No, it is called the drop tube because it drops down to the burn pot.......  The auger tube connects the hopper to the top of the drop tube...............  Let's help this guy instead of getting in a pissing contest.

18. Snap Disc #2 (Fuel Delivery Interrupt) 250Â°F
Snap disc #2 is also located on the back side of the feed drop
tube. There are 2 orange wires connected to it. This snap disc
will turn off the feed system which will turn off the appliance
if an overfi re condition should occur or if the convection
blower should fail to operate. If this occurs the snap disc will
automatically reset itself.
19. Snap Disc #3 (Back Burn Protector) 250Â°F
Snap disc #3 is mounted on the back of the auger tube in the
center of the appliance and has a reset button. To access
it remove the right side panel. If the fi re tries to burn back
into the feed system or push exhaust up the feed tube, this
snap disc will shut the entire system off. This disc must be
manually reset.


----------



## stoveguy13 (Dec 2, 2011)

i am not in a pissing contest i already explained what he needs to do if you want to correct the way i described it fine but the part that drops the pellets and the part that goes down to the hopper are the same part i use to work for quad


----------



## Czech (Dec 2, 2011)

tj is dead on. Once you figure out the power issue, still need to figure out the burn issue. Pot back-ups are almost always due to lack of air flow, either into or out of the pot. Most likely a dirty stove issue, specifically plugged pot holes or a plugged exhaust, stove is not breathing well and therefore not combusting fully.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 2, 2011)

Thanks, Czech!  I'm totally lost as to what stoveguy is trying to say.  As YOU know, the auger tube and drop tube are two entirely different things!   :red: AND there are two DIFFERENT snap disks on each one.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 2, 2011)

stoveguy13 said:
			
		

> i am not in a pissing contest i already explained what he needs to do if you want to correct the way i described it fine but the part that drops the pellets and the part that goes down to the hopper are the same part i use to work for quad



You told him to check the snap disk on the drop tube, which is NOT the problem.  That is snap disk #2 as I showed in my last post.  Snap disk #3 is on the auger tube.


----------



## DexterDay (Dec 2, 2011)

Tj and stoveguy13 are both right. Stoveguy, it is ALL one peice, but it is 2 different tubes/chutes. For the sake of argument,  I am neutral.  But the OP needs to answer questions to determine any problems.

It does sound like it needs reset or has a blown fuse.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 2, 2011)

Thanks, Dex


----------



## stoveguy13 (Dec 2, 2011)

older stove with grey control box #2 snap disc is located on the right side of the unit below #1 snap disc orange wires to it restable button only 175 degs back then so there really shoudnt be any question there is only one snap disc on the AUGER TUBE so the OP and find it easy.


----------



## castilequadraCO (Dec 2, 2011)

Reset Snap Disc #3

I now have power but no feed and the blower is on but there is a whining sound coming from the stove when i jump the thermostat wires

Best idea next?


----------



## Czech (Dec 2, 2011)

Is the auger turning? Make sure it is primed with pellets, may have to hit the reset a couple of times. Make sure the exhaust is clear, including the combustion fan. Remove top baffle (inside firebox) and fire bricks (back of fire box), check the combustion fan, vacuum it out! Whine may be the fan getting restricted or bearings going.


----------



## Countryboymo (Dec 2, 2011)

Now that you have power I would make sure you have clean and clear passageways in the stove including the vacuum tube going to that sensor.  Make sure everything is clean and tidy and then move to figuring out the auger feed situation.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 2, 2011)

castilequadraCO said:
			
		

> Reset Snap Disc #3
> 
> I now have power but no feed and the blower is on but there is a whining sound coming from the stove when i jump the thermostat wires
> 
> Best idea next?



Does the whining sound stop after around 30 seconds?  If so, it could be, like countryboy said, your auger turning in an empty tube getting primed.  If it continues to whine, then you need to determine if it's your exhaust/combustion fan.  Is it turning fast or slow?  Can you spin it freely by hand?  If it's binding up, you won't have enough vacuum to make the vacuum switch and tell the auger to turn.


----------



## castilequadraCO (Dec 2, 2011)

Ok the auger is not turning, when i connect the thermostat jump the whine noise is because the auger is not turning. 

next step?

PS - red light is on constant


----------



## stoveguy13 (Dec 2, 2011)

the #2 snap disc is on the right side of your stove 2 orange wires it has the same button as the #3 if the 3 tripped the 2 most likely did as welltry reseting it


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 2, 2011)

castilequadraCO said:
			
		

> Ok the auger is not turning, when i connect the thermostat jump the whine noise is because the auger is not turning.
> 
> next step?
> 
> PS - red light is on constant



How did you determine that your auger is not turning?  ''the whine noise is because the auger is not turning''?????


----------



## Czech (Dec 2, 2011)

These turn very slow! You need to really pay attention. A full cycle of on for a second or two, off for a second or two and they turn maybe a quarter revolution or so. I'd bet the whine noise is the auger turning, or at least trying to. If you confirm that it is powered and jammed, it can be removed fairly easily. Check the intake on the hopper where the auger is too, may sure there's not a matchbox car in there. Don't ask. Red light is normal when it is actively calling for heat and cannot sense fire, this is the status when it runs dry on pellets.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 2, 2011)

Yea, I agree.  The reason I asked the question is because on mine, there is NO WAY to see the auger turning.  The first inclination is to open the door and look up the chute to see if it's turning but, as you know, that would kill the vacuum and the feed.  Secondly, even IF you could do that, the auger will only turn continuously for a short time if you push the reset button.  That's why I wanted to know how long the squealing noise lasted.  It would tell us if it's the auger or not.  It could be 'normal' rubbing or it could be that the auger is slipping on its motor shaft.  That's why your suggestion of pulling the auger assembly makes sense as a next step.


----------



## DonD (Dec 4, 2011)

Czech said:
			
		

> Check the intake on the hopper where the auger is too, may sure there's not a matchbox car in there. Don't ask.



Too funny. Must be a toddler in the house. Reminds my of when I had a toilet in the back yard trying to back flush out the Thomas engine with a hose. I never did get an explanation of what my then 3 or 4 year old was thinking.


----------

