# Should extras be included with new Stihl Chainsaw?



## isipwater (Mar 21, 2014)

If I was to purchase a new Stihl chainsaw from a dealer, is it customary to expect or ask for any extras, such as additional chains, upgraded chain, oil, fuel, chain sharpener, case, etc...?


----------



## Osagebndr (Mar 21, 2014)

Usually they come with a wrench and my Stihl dealer will give a couple of two cycle mixes as well. And he'll charge a little less for a gallon of baroil


----------



## Jags (Mar 21, 2014)

It is not uncommon for them to throw in some incentive.  I believe they are very tight with the pricing of the saw, but the other stuff, not so much.


----------



## pma1123 (Mar 21, 2014)

With my purchase, the saw came with a small screwdriver, bar nut wrench, scabbard, and owners manual.
They doubled my warranty if I bought a 6qty gallon-mix case of their Ultra HP oil at the time of saw purchase. 
Other than that, I think they extended an offer for buy 1 chain, get the 2nd 50% off.


----------



## splitoak (Mar 21, 2014)

......u get an awesome saw...what else is there..lmao..butttt....u can always ask..i think i got $10 off my 290. But i think they made it back on the syn mix..  oh and the $32 rs chain...


----------



## TreePointer (Mar 21, 2014)

My experience with buying new Stihl saws is to expect the powerhead, bar, chain, scrench, carb adjustment screwdriver, 16" inexpensive scabbard (regardless of bar length), and operators manual.  Anything beyond that is some type of promotion which may or may not be available at the time, and don't whine if it's not offered, lol.

Sometimes you'll get added goodies like a six/four pack of oil, free or reduced price saw case, or even a hat or t-shirt.  For a good while in my area, dealers had the saw case deal attached to a 290 purchase.

Unless you are purchasing a large pro saw, the bar and chain will be green (low kickback) versions.  You can ask for a yellow chain and sometimes the dealer will swap one into the deal instead of the green chain.  Getting a yellow ES bar should cost you extra.  Some dealers will push hard to sell you the standard issue green bar & chain and say that's how they sell them.  With these dealers, the yellow bar & chain will be an additional purchase.

As mentioned, there is an extended/double warranty promotion.
http://www.stihlusa.com/information/corporate/press/march11_products_ultrawarranty/


----------



## wahoowad (Mar 21, 2014)

I bought a MS251 a month or two ago and didn't get anything extra


----------



## Beer Belly (Mar 21, 2014)

My guy said "I'll throw in the carrying case"....personally, I think it comes with a case


----------



## BrotherBart (Mar 21, 2014)

Depends on how close to out the door you are.


----------



## WiscWoody (Mar 21, 2014)

They don't do it for free but it's a good time to get a longer bar and chain. I did that for my first Stihl saw and they only charged like, $12 to go from a 16" B/C to a 18". Maybe they would throw it in, good luck!


----------



## Fifelaker (Mar 23, 2014)

When I bought my MS440 I shopped around and went with a dealer that threw in a 6 pack of oil 3 files and a pair of gloves. Not much but......


----------



## rwilly (Mar 23, 2014)

I got a cheap ass .50 cent hat.
I was expecting a case, scabbard, something!


----------



## Butcher (Mar 23, 2014)

Well, I get a 7% discount from my stihl dealer since I buy a lot of stuff for work from him. I don't expect him to give me any hand outs since it is a mom and pops place and the service is fantastic. When a guy like me running a commercial biz walks in with a problem they drop what they are doing and get me back in business. I don't know what your dealers are like in your neck of the woods but around here iffn you was to go trying to beg free stuff from a guy who is just trying to make a living he might tell you to go else ware.
The one thing I would ask for is what my dealer does for free. Buy a new saw, run it for 10 hours and take it back in for a check. He adjusts the carb if needed or looks for any other problems that may be up coming like loose bolts or leaking gaskets or whatever.


----------



## fossil (Mar 23, 2014)

I'd ask for a Ford F-150 and a trailer.  And a hat.


----------



## Kool_hand_Looke (Mar 23, 2014)

I got a bar wrench, scabbard, adjustment screwdriver, and a free second loop. 

Which made me happy so I bought that 2-in-1 sharpener...which is worth every penny.


----------



## Kool_hand_Looke (Mar 23, 2014)

Oh...I could chose between a case or a loop as well. So I chose the 2nd loop.


----------



## razerface (Mar 24, 2014)

those stihl cases are kinda expensive. They sometimes have a sale with them included, but that sale is always from the factory, not the dealer.


----------



## bassJAM (Mar 24, 2014)

When my dad bought his I think it came with a scabbard and chainsaw tool, and the dealer "upgraded" him to a 20" bar at no extra charge.

And a while back when I stopped in a dealership for parts for my trimmer, Stihl was running that deal where they'll double your warranty for buying a 6 pack of the pro oil mix.


----------



## Ashful (Mar 24, 2014)

I got a Stihl saw case.  Never have found any use for it, other than taking up unnecessary space on a shelf in the shed.

Come to think of it, I should throw it on eBay...


----------



## gzecc (Mar 24, 2014)

Joful said:


> I got a Stihl saw case.  Never have found any use for it, other than taking up unnecessary space on a shelf in the shed.
> 
> Come to think of it, I should throw it on eBay...


 
Same for me. I sold it on CL.


----------



## mike van (Mar 24, 2014)

I got 10% off on a MS 660 -


----------



## Ashful (Mar 24, 2014)

mike van said:


> I got 10% off on a MS 660 -


I suspect there's a wee bit more wiggle room in the price of a 660, than the saws the OP is considering!


----------



## tsquini (Mar 24, 2014)

I got a free screw driver and a 2oz container of 2cycle oil.


----------



## TreePointer (Mar 24, 2014)

Joful said:


> I suspect there's a wee bit more wiggle room in the price of a 660, than the saws the OP is considering!



+1

I know a dealer who has had a 660 on his shelf for years.  He tried to give ma a little discount and it was tempting, but I told him that I'm waiting for a 661.


----------



## SCOTT S. (Mar 24, 2014)

When I bought my ms460 they had a deal for 50 bucks I got the carry case a tool bag with wrench gloves ear muffs safety glasses and chaps that was 5 years ago though.


----------



## Shmudda (Mar 25, 2014)

I think you should FINALLY buy a damn saw and quit talking about it.........

How many threads and discussions are you going to start on this???  If you put as much time into cutting and splitting as looking into which saw to purchase you would have had those 5 cords already done over a couple weekends......

Enough already........

Craig


----------



## Ashful (Mar 25, 2014)

Shmudda said:


> I think you should FINALLY buy a damn saw and quit talking about it.........


In case anyone is wondering what that's all about...

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/which-chainsaw-would-you-pick.126336/

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/is-this-a-good-stihl-chainsaw-purchase.126408/

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/looking-to-buy-a-new-saw-recomendations.126468/

and of course this thread...

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/should-extras-be-included-with-new-stihl-chainsaw.126416/

It's time to spread your wings, my butterfly.


----------



## isipwater (Mar 25, 2014)

Sorry, but I have at least another 7 new threads to post before I can decide...can't commit and plagued with hesitation, doubt and a little bit of indecision.  Rest assured, I will eventually find my way through this confusing muddle, I hope


----------



## fossil (Mar 25, 2014)

Take your time.


----------



## isipwater (Mar 25, 2014)

I was kidding about 7 more threads. I am getting close and suspect I will finally decide by this weekend.  Still considering some used saws or I might get a new one.


----------



## Ashful (Mar 25, 2014)

No harm done.  Just giving you a proper hard time.  This is a forum for discussing such things, after all...


----------



## isipwater (Mar 25, 2014)

Joful said:


> No harm done.  Just giving you a proper hard time.  This is a forum for discussing such things, after all...


I need it.


----------



## Ashful (Mar 25, 2014)

One thing I learned along the way is that, no matter what saw I chose, I'd soon have envy for another.  This is a large part of the reason I was proposing some used saws (eg. the 036).  As you've noted, used pro saws really hold their value, particularly if you keep 'em looking pretty.  If you shop smart, you can buy a used pro saw, use it a year or three, and resell it for more than you have into it.  Even if you shop stupid, you can buy a used pro saw, use it a year or three, and resell it without losing more than a few dollars.

I went thru six or seven saws in 2 or 3 years, before I landed on a line-up I was happy with... or so I thought.  Now _CY_ has me itching to try a 200T in place of my T435.


----------



## TreePointer (Mar 25, 2014)

Maybe this will help.  The size (diameter) of your typical wood to be cut determines the bar length you need.  There is a displacement "sweet spot" for a given bar length.  One way of quantifying this is to find the maximum bar length that can be buried in your wood and still keep up its rpm's.   The sweet spot often is stated as follows:

50cc = 16" bar (.325)
60cc = 20" bar (3/8)
70cc = 24/28" bar (3/8)

Now you can tweak this a little by changing a few factors.  Some are listed below:

Stretch the 50cc bar length to 18", but if you plan to run 3/8 pitch chain, keep it at 16".
Put a 24/25" bar on a 60cc saw if you are cutting softwoods (if oiler can keep up).
Run a 16" bar on your 60/70cc saw if you want a high rpm screamer/fast bucker.
Run longer bars on the 70cc saw but use semi- or full skip chain.
Use longer bars for reach (back saver).

55/56cc saws (Stihl 290/ Husqvarna 455) are in the crossover area for chain pitch.  May be run with either .325 or 3/8 chain.


----------



## TreePointer (Mar 25, 2014)

Joful said:


> One thing I learned along the way is that, no matter what saw I chose, I'd soon have envy for another.  This is a large part of the reason I was proposing some used saws (eg. the 036).  As you've noted, used pro saws really hold their value, particularly if you keep 'em looking pretty.  If you shop smart, you can buy a used pro saw, use it a year or three, and resell it for more than you have into it.  Even if you shop stupid, you can buy a used pro saw, use it a year or three, and resell it without losing more than a few dollars.
> 
> I went thru six or seven saws in 2 or 3 years, before I landed on a line-up I was happy with... or so I thought.  Now _CY_ has me itching to try a 200T in place of my T435.



Darn CAD!


----------



## Ashful (Mar 25, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> Maybe this will help.  The size (diameter) of your typical wood to be cut determines the bar length you need.  There is a displacement "sweet spot" for a given bar length.  One way of quantifying this is to find the maximum bar length that can be buried in your wood and still keep up its rpm's.   The sweet spot often is stated as follows:
> 
> 50cc = 16" bar (.325)
> 60cc = 20" bar (3/8)
> 70cc = 24/28" bar (3/8)


I like this way of looking at it, but would say the numbers you have listed are closer to the maximum bar length for each given saw, than the "sweet spot."  Eg. a 60 cc saw with the nose of a 20" bar buried in hardwood is going to get the job done, but it will be a little little slow.  A 60cc saw with an 18" bar will cut real nice.

A 70cc saw with a 16" bar would be a real screamer!  Maybe I should try my 20" bar on the 064.


----------



## Firewood Bandit (Mar 25, 2014)

splitoak said:


> oh and the $32 rs chain...


 
How can you possibly do business with a saw shop that blatantly robbed you like that?  I can't imagine  a repair if they charged you that for a chain.

My dealer just sold me a  100' roll of Oregon LGX for $200, so 20" loops come out to under $9/loop.  Stihl chain is good, but it is not that much better.


----------



## isipwater (Mar 25, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> Maybe this will help.  The size (diameter) of your typical wood to be cut determines the bar length you need.  There is a displacement "sweet spot" for a given bar length.  One way of quantifying this is to find the maximum bar length that can be buried in your wood and still keep up its rpm's.   The sweet spot often is stated as follows:
> 
> 50cc = 16" bar (.325)
> 60cc = 20" bar (3/8)
> ...


Thanks for the detailed breakdown!


----------



## TreePointer (Mar 25, 2014)

Joful said:


> I like this way of looking at it, but would say the numbers you have listed are closer to the maximum bar length for each given saw, than the "sweet spot."  Eg. a 60 cc saw with the nose of a 20" bar buried in hardwood is going to get the job done, but it will be a little little slow.  A 60cc saw with an 18" bar will cut real nice.
> 
> A 70cc saw with a 16" bar would be a real screamer!  Maybe I should try my 20" bar on the 064.



You're right about that--it should be more of a max bar length when buried instead of "sweet spot."  My preference is to have the longest bar with which the saw can competently spin the chain when buried.   When I bury a 20" bar with my 361 running full comp, 3/8 pitch chain and a 7-tooth sprocket, it will slow a bit in hardwoods.  I definitely can't lean on it.

The reason I have a Dol-kita 7901 is so I don't have to feather the 361 when buried.  I've been keeping my eyes peeled for a good 90cc+ saw.  My dealer keeps telling me that he'll give me a discount if I purchase the first MS-661 he gets in stock.


----------



## Ashful (Mar 25, 2014)

A new MS-661 would be real nice, but not so nice as to justify the price for this weekend cutter.  I suspect they're going $1300?

I paid $500 for this 064 AV, which is sometimes quoted as the highest power to weight ratio of any saw in the Stihl line-up, although I have never checked the validity of those quotes.





To the OP, the saw on the right is the 036 Pro, my original recommendation to you.


----------



## TreePointer (Mar 26, 2014)

Joful said:


> A new MS-661 would be real nice, but not so nice as to justify the price for this weekend cutter.  I suspect they're going $1300?
> 
> I paid $500 for this 064 AV, which is sometimes quoted as the highest power to weight ratio of any saw in the Stihl line-up, although I have never checked the validity of those quotes.



We get some big trees on the farm, but I can't see shelling out over $1000 for a saw right now, either.  I'll probably end up with a used 660 or Husqvarna 395 at some point.  The 661 talk between the dealer and me is more of a running joke.  I'm often in his shop for lawncare & landscaping equipment parts, but he knows I'm after a big saw.  He raises his brow and smiles at me when I walk by the 660 and 880 on the shelf.


----------



## Ashful (Mar 26, 2014)

Ooh... the 880.  My dealer always has an 880 on his rack.  That is a saw for which I truly lust, but no way I'm spending that kind of money, just for the fun of using one!


----------



## mike van (Mar 26, 2014)

Joful said:


> A 70cc saw with a 16" bar would be a real screamer!  Maybe I should try my 20" bar on the 064.


                                        Last spring I got to a pile of locust logs I'd cut 4 years ago - Max 14 - 15" butts, tops too, about a 20 cord pile.   I put a 16" bar on my MS 660 and got  into that pile.  You could probably compare that saw/bar setup to the Hattori Hanzo sword from the Kill Bill movies.


----------

