# Aquastat question



## McKraut (Nov 22, 2013)

I have an Aquasmart 7600A controlling my oil boiler. I have the aquastat set so that there is no low limit, the high limit set to 195*F and the high differential set at 20*F. When the wood boiler can't supply enough heat the oil burner should kick on and start to heat water. It doesn't. The only way I can get it to fire is to set a low limit. I don't want it to keep the boiler warm when the wood burner can do that. I thought the only time you had to set a low limit was when you were heating DHW (which I am not).
 Can you tell me what I am missing?

Bob


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## Rory (Nov 22, 2013)

I doubt I can help you, but I seem to be missing a thing or two from your post.  It sounds like you want your oil furnace to kick in when your heating loop water drops below a certain point.  I don't really understand how that is any different in principle from heating DHW.  I would still expect to set a low limit at which the oil furnace would kick in.


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## ewdudley (Nov 22, 2013)

How is T-T call for heat activated when wood boiler falls behind?  Boiler won't cold start unless there's a call for heat.


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## maple1 (Nov 23, 2013)

Rory said:


> I doubt I can help you, but I seem to be missing a thing or two from your post.  It sounds like you want your oil furnace to kick in when your heating loop water drops below a certain point.  I don't really understand how that is any different in principle from heating DHW.  I would still expect to set a low limit at which the oil furnace would kick in.


 
I think he means going cold-start. I.e., when the heating loop water is above setpoint, the oil boiler just doesn't fire & goes cold. Some oil boilers keep themselves hot even with no call for heat when heating DHW (like when using an internal DHW coil) using the low-limit settings.

I think.


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## Clarkbug (Nov 23, 2013)

I have a separate strap-on aquastat tied to my storage tanks to fire my oil boiler.  That might be your best bet here, but on the supply out of the wood boiler.


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## raybonz (Nov 23, 2013)

http://www.inspectapedia.com/heat/Aquastat_Settings.htm#H1

Lots of good info at this site..


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## McKraut (Nov 23, 2013)

The system was designed (as I understand it) with a Tekmar controller with the wood boiler being primary and the oil being secondary. When the primary can't supply sufficient heat, a zone valve closes signaling the secondary to fire. I wanted to keep the secondary as a cold start because I don't want to waste oil keeping the oil burner at 100* when the wood burner is active. There is no DHW set up with this system (yet). I only have an elementary understanding of all this stuff, so if you can dummy down your responses I'd be grateful.


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## Clarkbug (Nov 23, 2013)

Ok, no worries there, cause I didnt know anything until I started reading here, and I still dont know much....  

There has to be something that would close the zone valve, and trigger the secondary to fire.  The cold start part of the boiler should be a separate set of controls.  

For instance, I have a cold start boiler, and all of that is controlled by a Honeywell controller on the oil boiler itself.  I bought a separate controller that intercepts the signal from my Taco Zone control to the oil gun.  When my strap on aquastat is warm, it doesnt let the oil fire, and opens a zone valve/starts a pump to feed the house from storage tanks.  When the tanks are cold and there is a call for heat from a T-stat, the oil boiler runs as it would if I didnt have a wood boiler.

Im not familiar with the Tekmar, so if you can post a model number, we might be able to figure out what you need to do next.


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## R Mannino (Nov 23, 2013)

With the low limit set to off, the Aquasmart will need a call for heat.  That call for for heat can be closing the T-T terminals or powering ZR with a line voltage signal.  If the burner isn't firing, assuming it's wired correctly there is no "call for heat".  What generates a call for heat?


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## McKraut (Nov 23, 2013)

Clarkbug said:


> Ok, no worries there, cause I didnt know anything until I started reading here, and I still dont know much....
> 
> There has to be something that would close the zone valve, and trigger the secondary to fire.  The cold start part of the boiler should be a separate set of controls.
> 
> ...


 
Thanks for your offer. I am using the Tekmar 401. Would it help if I sent you the schematic for the piping and wiring?


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## McKraut (Nov 23, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> With the low limit set to off, the Aquasmart will need a call for heat.  That call for for heat can be closing the T-T terminals or powering ZR with a line voltage signal.  If the burner isn't firing, assuming it's wired correctly there is no "call for heat".  What generates a call for heat?


 
 My assumption was when one of the zones called for heat, that would generate a signal from the Tekmar. Sorry, but I don't understand all this stuff. It was generally explained to me when the system was being designed. The guy who designed it is now out of business.


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## R Mannino (Nov 23, 2013)

It looks like the 401 has all the relays you need to run the system, it's just a matter of getting it integrated correctly.  Where do the "stage 1" and "stage 2" wires  on the 401 go?

http://tekmarcontrols.com/images/_literature/401_d_07.pdf


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## raybonz (Nov 24, 2013)

Did anyone check out this link I posted? This was where I found out how to setup a triple aquastat and it worked like a charm..

http://www.inspectapedia.com/heat/Aquastat_Settings.htm#H1

Ray


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## ewdudley (Nov 24, 2013)

raybonz said:


> Did anyone check out this link I posted? This was where I found out how to setup a triple aquastat and it worked like a charm..
> 
> http://www.inspectapedia.com/heat/Aquastat_Settings.htm#H1



I did, actually.  The OP is trying to run his boiler as a cold start boiler with no low limit.  How is your link helpful in his situation?


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## raybonz (Nov 24, 2013)

ewdudley said:


> I did, actually.  The OP is trying to run his boiler as a cold start boiler with no low limit.  How is your link helpful in his situation?


Thinking I'd be asking that question at that site as this is their level of expertise.. 

Ray


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## Clarkbug (Nov 24, 2013)

McKraut said:


> Would it help if I sent you the schematic for the piping and wiring?



If you have these available, that would be very helpful!


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## ewdudley (Nov 24, 2013)

McKraut said:


> Sorry about the delay in responding. Last night the wind was blowing and our internet is spotty when it's blowing (no, I am not kidding).
> I just got back home work. I attached the schematics for the plumbing and wiring. Your insight is appreciated.
> Bob


Now we're getting somewhere.  I guess first step would be to make sure that "Simple Toggle Switch To Disable Wood Stage 2 Boiler Heating" is not off.  (Which is the oil boiler call for heat disable switch, if I'm reading it right.)


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## McKraut (Nov 24, 2013)

Yes it is off.
  I was pitching a fit the other day when I couldn't figure out what was going on. The first question my wife asked me was "you didn't forget to flip a switch or something dumb like that' -- (now you have to say that with endless love and sarcasm to get the full effect). I immediately said "Of course not", then after she left the basement I ran upstairs to make sure it wasn't off.


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## Clarkbug (Nov 24, 2013)

McKraut said:


> Sorry about the delay in responding. Last night the wind was blowing and our internet is spotty when it's blowing (no, I am not kidding).
> I just got back home work. I attached the schematics for the plumbing and wiring. Your insight is appreciated.
> Bob



No worries.  My internet is the same way.

EW makes a good point, check your toggles.  

Looks like the oil boiler call for heat is triggered by the position of the three way zone valve.  Not clear to me what automatically triggers that, but I'm typing from my phone....  

Try and disable the wood boiler via toggle switch and see if that cycles the zone valve and enables the oil boiler.


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## ewdudley (Nov 24, 2013)

In the wiring diagram they're showing a a "Boiler Supply Temperature" sensor input into the Tekmar 401, but it does not show up in the system diagram (it goes to the Azel display instead!).  The only way I can see that the Tekmar would know that the wood boiler has cooled off would be that sensor, so without the sensor, no "Stage Two" oil boiler activation (via the three way zone valve).

[Edit:] Never mind, they've got not one, but two "Boiler Supply Temperature" sensors...


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## McKraut (Nov 24, 2013)

When I disable the wood boiler via the toggle switch to the wood boiler:

If the Tekmar says boiler 1 (or no boiler) is calling for heat, nothing happens.
If the Tekmar says boiler 2 is calling for heat, the three way valve closes and:

If the low limit is set, the oil burner kicks on
If the low limit is zero, nothing happens
Bob


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## McKraut (Nov 24, 2013)

ewdudley said:


> In the wiring diagram they're showing a a "Boiler Supply Temperature" sensor input into the Tekmar 401, but it does not show up in the system diagram (it goes to the Azel display instead!).  The only way I can see that the Tekmar would know that the wood boiler has cooled off would be that sensor, so without the sensor, no "Stage Two" oil boiler activation (via the three way zone valve).
> 
> [Edit:] Never mind, they've got not one, but two "Boiler Supply Temperature" sensors...[/quo
> 
> ...


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## ewdudley (Nov 24, 2013)

McKraut said:


> When I disable the wood boiler via the toggle switch to the wood boiler:
> 
> If the Tekmar says boiler 1 (or no boiler) is calling for heat, nothing happens.
> If the Tekmar says boiler 2 is calling for heat, the three way valve closes and:
> ...


I'm pretty sure you've proved that the sensor is working, the Tekmar is working, the three way zone valve is working, and the zone valve end switch is working, and therefore the problem is in how the aquastat is programmed, which is pretty much what you were saying two days ago.  Give us a while to study the Aquasmart modes of operation.


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## McKraut (Nov 24, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> It looks like the 401 has all the relays you need to run the system, it's just a matter of getting it integrated correctly.  Where do the "stage 1" and "stage 2" wires  on the 401 go?
> 
> http://tekmarcontrols.com/images/_literature/401_d_07.pdf


 Check out my post above at 7:34PM. It has the schematic attached.


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## McKraut (Nov 24, 2013)

ewdudley said:


> I'm pretty sure you've proved that the sensor is working, the Tekmar is working, the three way zone valve is working, and the zone valve end switch is working, and therefore the problem is in how the aquastat is programmed, which is pretty much what you were saying two days ago.  Give us a while to study the Aquasmart modes of operation.


 OK. Thanks a lot. I will check in tomorrow night when I get home from work.

Bob


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## Clarkbug (Nov 25, 2013)

Just to be clear, your oil boiler is OK to operate in cold start, correct?

Also, you are changing the low limit at the Aquasmart, not the Tekmar?  They appear to have several features that overlap.

What I am wondering is if the Tekmar is sending a "Stage 2" burner signal.  When you flipped the switch to run the oil boiler for us manually, was there a "2" on the Tekmar display?  I wonder if there is a time delay between stages 1 and 2.


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## R Mannino (Nov 25, 2013)

Take a jumper wire and jump T - T on the Aquasmart, if the boiler fires, that proves there is no signal for heat.  If this is the case the issue is the wire either from the Tekmar to the three way valve, or the valve to the Aquasmart OR the way it's wired through that three way valve.


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## McKraut (Nov 26, 2013)

Clarkbug said:


> Just to be clear, your oil boiler is OK to operate in cold start, correct?
> 
> Also, you are changing the low limit at the Aquasmart, not the Tekmar?  They appear to have several features that overlap.
> 
> What I am wondering is if the Tekmar is sending a "Stage 2" burner signal.  When you flipped the switch to run the oil boiler for us manually, was there a "2" on the Tekmar display?  I wonder if there is a time delay between stages 1 and 2.


 
The system designer told me the Buderus was the boiler to use. I assume he knew what he was talking about. I hope he knew what he was talking about. How can I find out? I have a Buderus G215. I will re-read the manual and see if it specifically states anything about it.

 When the TEKMAR has the "1" on the display, there is no activity on the oil burner. The only thing the Aquasmart displays in the water temperature. When the "2" icon pops up, the 3 way valve closes and then the boiler does/does not fire.

 Yes, I am changing the low limit on the Aquasmart. All the settings in the TEKMAR are the settings provided on the schematic.

Thanks again,

Bob


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## ewdudley (Nov 26, 2013)

I think you've proved the Tekmar and three-way valve are working correctly, but it would be great to make certain. Definitely want to try RManni's suggestion and jumper T-T to the Aquasmart and see what happens with and without low limit set to OFF.


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## McKraut (Nov 26, 2013)

Just finished testing it and this is what I saw. When I jumped T-T on the Aquasmart with the with the low "off", the burner did kick on. So as RMannino suggested above, did I wire the zone valve wrong?
 Since you understand the interaction between the TEKMAR and the boilers, I have another question for you. The TEKMAR will call for heat from boiler number 2 even when boiler 1 is still hot. I checked a few minues ago when I was testing the aquastat. The zone called for heat and the circulator turned on. After 5 minutes, the TEKMAR said it was calling for heat from boiler 1. In about 2 minutes TEKMAR called for heat from boiler 2 and this kicked on the oil burner. I ran outside and checked the temp on the EKO and it was idling at 188*. Is there a setting in the TEKMAR that can be changed to correct this?

Thanks again,

Bob


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## R Mannino (Nov 26, 2013)

Give me some time to read the Tekmar manual.  More than likely that's where your "issue" is.
FYI Buderus is a great boiler.


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## Clarkbug (Nov 26, 2013)

Hmm, thanks for the results McKraut.  I see something else that is troubling.  Stage 2 demand on the TEKMAR closes your three way zone valve, and that should then close the TT terminals, firing the oil boiler.  But that has also closed your wood heat loop.  This would be great in an either/or situation (either wood or oil), but the TEKMAR sees the two stages as working together.  This obviously isnt the case with the way the system is wired up.  If it calls for oil, it will close off the feed from the BioMass, and that will sit there and idle.  

I quickly skimmed the TEKMAR manual, but couldnt immediately find the setting to adjust for the time delay between Stage 1 and Stage 2.  Looks like it might auto-adjust depending on the outdoor air temp, and the difference between the supply temp and target supply temp.  

But that still doesnt explain whats up with the aquastat (your original question).  It fired when you jumped the TT terminals, but it sounds like you also may want to check how the ZV is wired up.  Should be an endswitch on there that makes when the valve opens, and the wire connected to TT should be connected to those terminals.  The idea being that we can work backwards from the terminals to figure out the issue.  Jumper means boiler will fire when it has a call for heat without the low limit in place.  So, we trace it back to the ZV, since thats the next junction.  If thats OK, then we move up the line to the TEKMAR.  

Agree with Mannino, the Buderus is a great boiler.  

Your designer put together a great system for you, but great gravy is there a lot going on there!  As you can see, its a real treat to try and toubleshoot


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## R Mannino (Nov 26, 2013)

http://tekmarcontrols.com/images/_literature/401_d_07.pdf

On page 15, boiler type can we confirm it's programmed to "2STG"?  You have to get into the installer parameters, pg. 13.


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## McKraut (Nov 26, 2013)

Y


R Mannino said:


> http://tekmarcontrols.com/images/_literature/401_d_07.pdf
> 
> On page 15, boiler type can we confirm it's programmed to "2STG"?  You have to get into the installer parameters, pg. 13.


 Yes it is "2STG". Just to be sure when I was testing your recommendation about jumping T-T this morning, I went into the installer mode and verified that I had entered all the settings the designer recommended. Thank you again for taking the time to look at this for me. I really do appreciate it.

Bob


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## McKraut (Nov 26, 2013)

Clarkbug said:


> Hmm, thanks for the results McKraut.  I see something else that is troubling.  Stage 2 demand on the TEKMAR closes your three way zone valve, and that should then close the TT terminals, firing the oil boiler.  But that has also closed your wood heat loop.  This would be great in an either/or situation (either wood or oil), but the TEKMAR sees the two stages as working together.  This obviously isnt the case with the way the system is wired up.  If it calls for oil, it will close off the feed from the BioMass, and that will sit there and idle.
> 
> I quickly skimmed the TEKMAR manual, but couldnt immediately find the setting to adjust for the time delay between Stage 1 and Stage 2.  Looks like it might auto-adjust depending on the outdoor air temp, and the difference between the supply temp and target supply temp.
> 
> ...


 
 Tomorrow I will be off all day and I will work with the wiring on the zone valve and see if I may have made a mistake. From what I read in the manual for the TEKMAR, there was not a lot of user defined settings to adjust. I have contacted TEKMAR and have not gotten any response from them. I am going to contact them again tomorrow. Thank you for all you help.

Bob

I wish the fella that designed it was still around to help. It would have made this a lot easier!!


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## Clarkbug (Nov 26, 2013)

You have a very robust system, its just hard to troubleshoot from afar!  

Just focus on solving one issue at a time, and its easier to help troubleshoot it.  For the TEKMAR, make sure you go into installer mode to play with your settings.


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## ewdudley (Nov 27, 2013)

Clarkbug said:


> You have a very robust system, its just hard to troubleshoot from afar!


A couple things have me wondering.

The 'Boiler Supply Temperature' sensor (no, not the one on the wood boiler, the one on the 'Supply Header', so ignore the label and think of it as a "Supply Header Temperature' sensor) is used by the 401 to modulate the supply header temperature by cycling the wood boiler and engaging stage two according to its whim.  That's fine except with four load circs it looks like stage two could kick in too easily.  Of course the Tekmar sheet gives no detail whatsoever on what the criteria are for engaging stage two, so there's more than a little guesswork in play.

So stage two kicks in, which presumably energizes (unlabeled) 'Zone Valve 24VAC'.  Now the NO port of the ZV is from the oil boiler, so when ZV energizes the port from the oil boiler is closed, the port from the wood boiler is opened, and the end switch from the ZV sends a call for heat to the oil boiler by closing oil boiler T-T. So now we do get heat from the wood boiler for as long as the supply header stays cool enough, but once the supply header gets hot the ZV de-energizes, turns off the oil boiler, and begins to draw from the oil boiler. Lather, rinse, repeat.  Am I reading the drawing right?


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## ewdudley (Nov 27, 2013)

McKraut said:


> Tomorrow I will be off all day and I will work with the wiring on the zone valve and see if I may have made a mistake.


Take a look at the 401 test modes that are available.  You can cycle through the functions and pause wherever to investigate behavior.


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## McKraut (Nov 27, 2013)

Clarkbug said:


> You have a very robust system, its just hard to troubleshoot from afar!
> 
> Just focus on solving one issue at a time, and its easier to help troubleshoot it.  For the TEKMAR, make sure you go into installer mode to play with your settings.


 
This is the way I have it wired from the TEKMAR to the zone valve to the oil burner aquastat:

Tekmar:                                           Zone Valve:                                      Aquastat:

Red -------------------------------------------- Blue------------------------------------------Red
Black-------------------------------------------Brown
                                                            Black-----------------------------------------Black

I reversed the wires on the zone valve and tried:

Tekmar:                                           Zone Valve:                                      Aquastat:

Red -------------------------------------------- Blue------------------------------------------Red
                                                           Brown-----------------------------------------Black 
Black-------------------------------------------Black

This gives the exact same results.

 I attached the actuator product information.

Thanks again,

Bob


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## McKraut (Nov 27, 2013)

ewdudley said:


> A couple things have me wondering.
> 
> The 'Boiler Supply Temperature' sensor (no, not the one on the wood boiler, the one on the 'Supply Header', so ignore the label and think of it as a "Supply Header Temperature' sensor) is used by the 401 to modulate the supply header temperature by cycling the wood boiler and engaging stage two according to its whim.  That's fine except with four load circs it looks like stage two could kick in too easily.  Of course the Tekmar sheet gives no detail whatsoever on what the criteria are for engaging stage two, so there's more than a little guesswork in play.
> 
> So stage two kicks in, which presumably energizes (unlabeled) 'Zone Valve 24VAC'.  Now the NO port of the ZV is from the oil boiler, so when ZV energizes the port from the oil boiler is closed, the port from the wood boiler is opened, and the end switch from the ZV sends a call for heat to the oil boiler by closing oil boiler T-T. So now we do get heat from the wood boiler for as long as the supply header stays cool enough, but once the supply header gets hot the ZV de-energizes, turns off the oil boiler, and begins to draw from the oil boiler. Lather, rinse, repeat.  Am I reading the drawing right?


 
 I totally forgot that part of the schematic I posted is wrong. I just realized it when I was reading your description. After I had talked with the guy that designed it, I noticed that on the diagram the direction of water flow was wrong and the NO/NC was reversed. He said he would correct it on the schematic, but he never did. I know it was wrong, but there was no way you could have known. I am very sorry about the confusion.

 The zone valve is set up so that NO is for the wood boiler and the oil boiler is normally closed.

Bob


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## ewdudley (Nov 27, 2013)

McKraut said:


> This is the way I have it wired from the TEKMAR to the zone valve to the oil burner aquastat:
> 
> Tekmar:                                           Zone Valve:                                      Aquastat:
> 
> ...


I'm confused.  Wiring diagram shows two wires from 401 and two wires to aquastat.


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## McKraut (Nov 27, 2013)

ewdudley said:


> I'm confused.  Wiring diagram shows two wires from 401 and two wires to aquastat.


 This didn't post correctly. The spacing is off from how I typed it. I will redo this in Word and attach it.

Bob


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## R Mannino (Nov 27, 2013)

The only question I have left is: can the 401 through stage 2 activate the zone valve it's connected to?

I also think EW is onto something with the boiler sensor location, it may be factoring into this issue.


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## McKraut (Nov 27, 2013)

ewdudley said:


> I'm confused.  Wiring diagram shows two wires from 401 and two wires to aquastat.


 
 I attached the spacing the way I had posted it, not the way it showed up

Bob 

Couldn't post it as a Word or Excel file. It's here as a txt file


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## Clarkbug (Nov 27, 2013)

Bob,

Move the wires coming from the TEKMAR to the ZV back to where they were.  Thats a separate leg of wiring to track down.  If previously it was moving the valve correctly, no sense messing with that connection.  

Looking at the PDF you posted of the ZV, do you have white, orange, and grey wires or connections that you can use?  Or only blue brown and black?


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## ewdudley (Nov 27, 2013)

McKraut said:


> I attached the spacing the way I had posted it, not the way it showed up
> 
> Bob
> 
> Couldn't post it as a Word or Excel file. It's here as a txt file




```
Tekmar:                          Zone Valve:          Aquastat:

INPUT_POWER_C--------------------------------- Blue
INPUT_POWER_R-----STAGE_2_TERMINAL_LOWER-------Brown----------------Red (TR or TW)
                  STAGE_2_TERMINAL_UPPER-------Black----------------Black (vice versa)
```

It's a plain old three wire zone valve, needs three wires to supply power plus activation contact.

STAGE_2_TERMINAL_UPPER and STAGE_2_TERMINAL_LOWER terminals are interchangeable as long as the wire that comes from INPUT_POWER_R continues on to ZV Brown.


Red and Black wires going to aquastat are also interchangeable.


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## Clarkbug (Nov 28, 2013)

Thanks EW.  I couldnt figure out if the end switch was a separate set of terminals (or was supposed to be) or not.  

I think whats throwing me off is that only two wires are shown on Bob's schematic, and in the text file.


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## ewdudley (Nov 28, 2013)

Clarkbug said:


> I couldnt figure out if the end switch was a separate set of terminals (or was supposed to be) or not.
> 
> I think whats throwing me off is that only two wires are shown on Bob's schematic, and in the text file.


Same here.  The VC type shown in the sheet McK posted does not jibe with NRT drawing.  Plus, for me at least, three-wire zone valves with separate 24VAC sources involved coming from both the aquastat side and the 'thermostat' side has always been confusing.

Speaking of NRT, here's an interesting quote from their webpage:



> Many companies dodge design issues by using overkill techniques like "zone by pump"; it may look easy up front, but at $5 to $10/month in electricity per pump, its true costs can be hidden in your energy bills.


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## McKraut (Dec 3, 2013)

Clarkbug said:


> Thanks EW.  I couldnt figure out if the end switch was a separate set of terminals (or was supposed to be) or not.
> 
> I think whats throwing me off is that only two wires are shown on Bob's schematic, and in the text file.


 Do you know of any actuator that is only 2 wires and will work in this situation?

Bob


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## McKraut (Dec 3, 2013)

ewdudley said:


> Same here.  The VC type shown in the sheet McK posted does not jibe with NRT drawing.  Plus, for me at least, three-wire zone valves with separate 24VAC sources involved coming from both the aquastat side and the 'thermostat' side has always been confusing.
> 
> Speaking of NRT, here's an interesting quote from their webpage:


 
 I contacted 3 different people at TEKMAR trying to get some help from them. I got no response from anybody. Any idea on who to contact to get this figured out? I am running out of options.

Bob


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## R Mannino (Dec 4, 2013)

Can probably get this wired in to solve your issue.

http://ribrelays.com/Products/Pilot-Relays/RIBU1C.html


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## McKraut (Dec 5, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> Can probably get this wired in to solve your issue.
> 
> http://ribrelays.com/Products/Pilot-Relays/RIBU1C.html


 
 I checked out the relay. Can you tell me how I would wire it in my system?

 Thanks for helping me out.

Bob


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## R Mannino (Dec 6, 2013)

What is the brand and model of the 3 way zone valve, I don't quite comprehend the wiring diagram that you have posted.  I'd like to see the manual of the 3 way valve.  That relay can be used a number of ways to solve wiring "issues".

Ron


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## ewdudley (Dec 6, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> like to see the manual of the 3 way valve.





McKraut said:


> I attached the actuator product information.
> Attached Files:


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## R Mannino (Dec 6, 2013)

How about the model number of the zone valve and a real world photo of the valve itself.  This is a wiring issue probably solved in about 10 minutes.  The manual shows SPDT and SPST type valves, all of which have 6 terminals on the valve.


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## McKraut (Dec 6, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> How about the model number of the zone valve and a real world photo of the valve itself.  This is a wiring issue probably solved in about 10 minutes.  The manual shows SPDT and SPST type valves, all of which have 6 terminals on the valve.


 
 I attached the info for both the actuator and the 3 way valve. If you need a picture of the valve in the system itself,  I can get one for you in a few hours. I just finished scrubbing the basement floor and it will be dry in about an hour. Just came up to get something to drink and saw the post.

Thank you,

Bob


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## R Mannino (Dec 6, 2013)

McKraut said:


> I attached the info for both the actuator and the 3 way valve. If you need a picture of the valve in the system itself,  I can get one for you in a few hours. I just finished scrubbing the basement floor and it will be dry in about an hour. Just came up to get something to drink and saw the post.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Bob




Guinness?  I'm a Smithwicks fan myself.


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## McKraut (Dec 6, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> Guinness?  I'm a Smithwicks fan myself.


 
Two beautiful children from the same wonderful mother. I have never said "no" to either. As a matter of fact, I think I'll have one tonight. You have excellent taste.

Bob


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## R Mannino (Dec 6, 2013)

How many wires or terminals do we have on this three way valve, and what might they be labeled or colored?  I believe that the three way valve is "not talking" to the Aquasmart.  We need to open a line of communication, in the mean time I'm going to have a Smithwick's.


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## ewdudley (Dec 6, 2013)

ewdudley said:


> [Wiring diagram upsthread]


Was there some reason you thought the diagram above would not do the trick?


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## R Mannino (Dec 6, 2013)

ewdudley said:


> Was there some reason you thought the diagram above would not do the trick?



Shouldn't his three way valve have white, orange and grey wires for an end switch.  I haven't seen them in any part of the thread yet.  Maybe I'm missing something?  If the valve is missing the end switch you can make one with a RIB relay, I do it all the time.  I just can't see buying an unnecessary relay, if the end switch is there.  The Tekmar and Aquasmart should be isolated in my opinion as they each have their own 24 v transformer.


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## ewdudley (Dec 6, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> Shouldn't his three way valve have white, orange and grey wires for an end switch.  I haven't seen them in any part of the thread yet.  Maybe I'm missing something?  If the valve is missing the end switch you can make one with a RIB relay, I do it all the time.  I just can't see buying an unnecessary relay, if the end switch is there.  The Tekmar and Aquasmart should be isolated in my opinion as they each have their own 24 v transformer.


I see what you're saying.  I was seeing an end switch where there isn't one. Does there need to be a DPDT (DPST) activated by the Tekmar stage-two contacts, on pole to activate the valve actuator and another to close T-T to the aquastat?


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## R Mannino (Dec 6, 2013)

ewdudley said:


> I see what you're saying.  I was seeing an end switch where there isn't one. Does there need to be a DPDT (DPST) activated by the Tekmar stage-two contacts, on pole to activate the valve actuator and another to close T-T to the aquastat?



I would try wiring the end switch that is closed when the three way valve is open to the oil boiler to T-T on the Aquasmart.  That should fire the oil boiler.

I believe that they are using the stage two contacts to move the three way valve.


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## McKraut (Dec 6, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> How many wires or terminals do we have on this three way valve, and what might they be labeled or colored?  I believe that the three way valve is "not talking" to the Aquasmart.  We need to open a line of communication, in the mean time I'm going to have a Smithwick's.


 
 The  3 wires are blue, brown and black.

Cheers


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## R Mannino (Dec 6, 2013)

The three way valve seems to be without an end switch.  A RIB relay will emulate an end switch.  With the powered side of the RIB wired to stage two on the Tekmar and the other side wired to T-T on the Aquasmart.  Problem solved $10.


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## lotawood (Dec 6, 2013)

I'm using that 3-way zone valve and actuator with a tekmar thermostat.  They go through a taco zone valve controller.  Taco had a bigger PDF that showed how to wire up all their pump and zone valve controllers.  That is what I used to find out how to wire mine.  I'm sure it was from the main taco website.
I had (on page 60) Honeywell VC 40 & 80 (spdt) hydronic zone valve with taco zone valve control.  I only copied that page.
I could go look at the color of my wires later if It will help.


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## ewdudley (Dec 7, 2013)

McKraut said:


> The  3 wires are blue, brown and black.


The Series 20, 40, and 80 all have blue, brown, and black wires. Series 20 uses SPDT control, series 40 and 80 use SPST control.  I don't think we can tell what type of actuator it is just by the color of the wires.  Or did I miss upthread where the type of actuator was identified?


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## ewdudley (Dec 7, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> The three way valve seems to be without an end switch.  A RIB relay will emulate an end switch.  With the powered side of the RIB wired to stage two on the Tekmar and the other side wired to T-T on the Aquasmart.  Problem solved $10.


So the 401 accumulates error on the supply header sensor and activates stage two high fire, but there's still a call for heat to the wood boiler on stage one, is that right?  But on high fire the three way valve shuts off flow from the wood boiler so it shuts down on high limit.

Meanwhile the oil boiler comes up to temperature from a cold start, brings the supply header back up to setpoint, and then the 401 goes back to low fire.  If wood boiler can respond quickly enough to satisfy demand going forward we're good, else cycle repeats?

Seems like the wood boiler could spend a lot of time ready and willing to supply heat, but the 401 will keep it valved off when it's most needed.


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## R Mannino (Dec 7, 2013)

ewdudley said:


> So the 401 accumulates error on the supply header sensor and activates stage two high fire, but there's still a call for heat to the wood boiler on stage one, is that right?  But on high fire the three way valve shuts off flow from the wood boiler so it shuts down on high limit.
> 
> Meanwhile the oil boiler comes up to temperature from a cold start, brings the supply header back up to setpoint, and then the 401 goes back to low fire.  If wood boiler can respond quickly enough to satisfy demand going forward we're good, else cycle repeats?
> 
> Seems like the wood boiler could spend a lot of time ready and willing to supply heat, but the 401 will keep it valved off when it's most needed.



That's the way I understand it.  That Tekmar control is for a SINGLE boiler, either two stage or modulating, assuming I read the manual correctly.

http://tekmarcontrols.com/products/hvac-systems/401.html


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## McKraut (Dec 8, 2013)

lotawood said:


> I'm using that 3-way zone valve and actuator with a tekmar thermostat.  They go through a taco zone valve controller.  Taco had a bigger PDF that showed how to wire up all their pump and zone valve controllers.  That is what I used to find out how to wire mine.  I'm sure it was from the main taco website.
> I had (on page 60) Honeywell VC 40 & 80 (spdt) hydronic zone valve with taco zone valve control.  I only copied that page.
> I could go look at the color of my wires later if It will help.


 
 What model zone valve controller do you use?

Bob


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## McKraut (Dec 8, 2013)

ewdudley said:


> The Series 20, 40, and 80 all have blue, brown, and black wires. Series 20 uses SPDT control, series 40 and 80 use SPST control.  I don't think we can tell what type of actuator it is just by the color of the wires.  Or did I miss upthread where the type of actuator was identified?


 
Is there a number or other identifying character I can get off of the actuator for you?

Bob


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## lotawood (Dec 8, 2013)

I have a taco 403-4 ZVC.
I looked over the thread closer.  I don't have exactly what you have.  I am not trying to modulate temperatures with the three way valve.  I have a VCZmr6100 three way valve, a VC8714zzn actuator with end switch and a tekmar 509 thermostat on the other side of the taco zone valve controller.
I have constant circulation in a concrete shop floor.  The three way valve adds mixed hot water in one position, when the thermostat calls for it, and just  in-floor re-circulation in the other position.
I cant tell the model of the actuator that you have.


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## lotawood (Dec 8, 2013)

My actuator had a label on top of the plastic housing.  I also had it in my stack of paperwork from the receipts.
The one I have is also black plastic for 24 volt. I think green is 120 volt.


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## ewdudley (Dec 8, 2013)

McKraut said:


> Is there a number or other identifying character I can get off of the actuator for you?


I'm guessing it's one of these:


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## McKraut (Dec 9, 2013)

ewdudley said:


> I'm guessing it's one of these:
> 
> View attachment 119974


 
VC8114-11

6 SEC. 6 VA
24 VAC  50/60HZ
Plenum Rated
T60 TS110 IP40

Bob


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## ewdudley (Dec 10, 2013)

ewdudley said:


> Seems like the wood boiler could spend a lot of time ready and willing to supply heat, but the 401 will keep it valved off when it's most needed.





R Mannino said:


> That's the way I understand it. That Tekmar control is for a SINGLE boiler, either two stage or modulating, assuming I read the manual correctly.



It looks like RMan and I agree that the stage 2 output of the 401 is not going to work if the intent is to switch over to oil when the wood boiler goes offline.  Neither can the stage 2 output serve to supplement wood boiler output if and when wood boiler falls behind temporarily, at least not in the case where the three-way valve is configured the way it is.

I think what you may want is to have a switch, in conjunction with a relay or two, that directs the stage one call for heat to the wood boiler or alternatively to the oil boiler as appropriate.  It could be a manual switch to get you going, with the option of adding an aquastat to the wood boiler side that would automate the switch-over.

Once you're sure how you want the system to work we can worry about how to connect to the three-way valve and the aquastat.


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## McKraut (Dec 10, 2013)

ewdudley said:


> It looks like RMan and I agree that the stage 2 output of the 401 is not going to work if the intent is to switch over to oil when the wood boiler goes offline.  Neither can the stage 2 output serve to supplement wood boiler output if and when wood boiler falls behind temporarily, at least not in the case where the three-way valve is configured the way it is.
> 
> I think what you may want is to have a switch, in conjunction with a relay or two, that directs the stage one call for heat to the wood boiler or alternatively to the oil boiler as appropriate.  It could be a manual switch to get you going, with the option of adding an aquastat to the wood boiler side that would automate the switch-over.
> 
> Once you're sure how you want the system to work we can worry about how to connect to the three-way valve and the aquastat.


 
 Right now I have a switch that supplies power to the oil burner. It has been off since I've opened this thread. At this point I will just leave it this way. I appreciate your help. This has been extremely frustrating. I thought I hired qualified people to design this for me, but in the end I got the shaft. No wonder they went out of business. I don't have enough experience with relays, switches, or aquastats to do anything else with the set up.

Bob


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## R Mannino (Dec 10, 2013)

I think you can get it to work with your existing controls, maybe not ideally.  The question is what closes T-T on the Aquasmart?  If we add a RIB relay as an end switch to the three way valve the system should work.  Has the Tekmar been able to move the three way valve?


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## McKraut (Dec 10, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> I think you can get it to work with your existing controls, maybe not ideally.  The question is what closes T-T on the Aquasmart?  If we add a RIB relay as an end switch to the three way valve the system should work.  Has the Tekmar been able to move the three way valve?


 
 When there is a call for heat, on the Tekmar display, the call for boiler one (wood) is displayed, then within a few minutes the display shows boiler two -- or stage two (oil). At that time the three way valve closes and the boiler fires (if there is a low limit set).

Bob


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## R Mannino (Dec 10, 2013)

The real question here is why does the Tekmar go to stage two so quickly.  If I didn't know any better I'd say it should stay at stage one unless the control sees the boiler supply temperature dropping. 

The three way valve just needs an end switch to fire the boiler cold, without a low limit set.

The real problem here is why is it going to stage two so quickly?

EW, your up!  How's the weather up there my daughter is driving home from Oswego on Thursday?


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## McKraut (Dec 10, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> The real question here is why does the Tekmar go to stage two so quickly.  If I didn't know any better I'd say it should stay at stage one unless the control sees the boiler supply temperature dropping.
> 
> The three way valve just needs an end switch to fire the boiler cold, without a low limit set.
> 
> ...


 
 I have contacted Tekmar directly, 2 Tekmar representatives, to ask for so help and advice and nobody will even give me the courtesy of a response. I'm not very impressed with them.

Bob


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## R Mannino (Dec 10, 2013)

The Tekmar controls are pretty powerful with regard to the number of things they're able to do.  System wise it seems like your "right there" just a matter of tweaking what you have.  I'm not really a wood fired expert other than the Harman Oakwood I have, but I've put in a couple of heating systems here and there.


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## McKraut (Dec 10, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> The Tekmar controls are pretty powerful with regard to the number of things they're able to do.  System wise it seems like your "right there" just a matter of tweaking what you have.  I'm not really a wood fired expert other than the Harman Oakwood I have, but I've put in a couple of heating systems here and there.


 You know a helluva lot more than I. I am totally lost.

Bob


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## ewdudley (Dec 11, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> The real question here is why does the Tekmar go to stage two so quickly. If I didn't know any better I'd say it should stay at stage one unless the control sees the boiler supply temperature dropping.


But the "Boiler Supply Sensor" is on the "Supply Header" with as many as four circulators trying to pull as much heat as they can, so maybe it's not surprising that the 401 would go into stage 2 high fire.

*But I don't think that matters*, I don't see how the oil boiler can be controlled by the 401 stage-two-high-fire relay in the first place.  With the three-way valve set up the way it is either one boiler supplies heat or the other, and I say that when one boiler is running the other needs to be offline.  But the 401 has the wood boiler activated by the stage-one-low-fire relay, which I assume stays active the whole time. *The system needs to decide which boiler is online and the 401 is not the right controller for that.*



R Mannino said:


> The three way valve just needs an end switch to fire the boiler cold, without a low limit set.



According to the actuator sheet there needs to be three wires and a switch to control the valve:




But there's only two wires coming from the 401 side, so I believe the fact that the valve does open and close when the aquastat is in low-limit mode means that 24 VAC coming from the aquastat side is somehow involved, how I don't know and don't care.  As you (RMan) have pointed out upthread *this can't be good*.

So need to set it up so the 401 stage-one-call-for-heat signal can switched to activate wood boiler T-T in one mode and the oil boiler T-T in the other.

Need a separate switch to activate the three-way valve continuously while the system is in oil boiler mode.  The three-way valve should not be activated according to call-for-heat, it should be activated according to which boiler is on line.  I don't think the valve actuator needs an end-switch function, when the oil boiler is on line the valve function and the call for heat function are independent, which is to say the loads need to be able to circulate through oil boiler whether it is firing or not.



R Mannino said:


> EW, your up! How's the weather up there my daughter is driving home from Oswego on Thursday?



They're getting hammered by the looks of it.  Only fifteen miles away from where I'm at but it's a whole different world with the wind straight out of the west like it is now.  The good news is once she gets a few miles south and east it should be just fine.


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## McKraut (Dec 11, 2013)

ewdudley said:


> the loads need to be able to circulate through oil boiler whether it is firing or not.



I always thought that it wasn't a good idea to run heated water through a cold boiler -- due to heat loss up the chimney

 Can the problem be corrected by switching to a different controller or by changing the piping?


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## ewdudley (Dec 11, 2013)

McKraut said:


> the loads need to be able to circulate through oil boiler whether it is firing or not.
> 
> I always thought that it wasn't a good idea to run heated water through a cold boiler -- due to heat loss up the chimney


I mean when the oil boiler is the active boiler it doesn't make sense to me to close the valve to the boiler when there is not a call for heat.  Normally when an oil boiler is online the loads circulate through the boiler and the burner cycles to supply heat and to keep the boiler jacket above condensing temperature.

When the oil boiler is offline then the three-way valve would be closed and no water would circulate through it.


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## R Mannino (Dec 11, 2013)

McKraut said:


> I always thought that it wasn't a good idea to run heated water through a cold boiler -- due to heat loss up the chimney
> 
> Can the problem be corrected by switching to a different controller or by changing the piping?



You could eliminate the 3 way valve and pipe the oil boiler primary-secondary and use the Aquasmart to power the circulator on that loop.

The bigger issue is there is no call to T-T on the Aquasmart.  What kind of backup with the oil are we looking for?  You could just wire a cheap thermostat to T-T on the Aquasmart to generate the call for heat.


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## R Mannino (Dec 13, 2013)

Do you have any photos?  I ran into a Northeast Radiant Technology job today.


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## McKraut (Dec 14, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> You could eliminate the 3 way valve and pipe the oil boiler primary-secondary and use the Aquasmart to power the circulator on that loop.
> 
> The bigger issue is there is no call to T-T on the Aquasmart.  What kind of backup with the oil are we looking for?  You could just wire a cheap thermostat to T-T on the Aquasmart to generate the call for heat.




Here are pictures of the piping. I have not hooked up the DHW circuit yet. Do you see any problems with the piping? There is one problem I will run into in the future with storage.

Bob


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## McKraut (Dec 14, 2013)

Yes, I know the actuator isn't on the 3 way valve. I pulled it off because I was tired of dealing with it.

Bob


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## R Mannino (Dec 14, 2013)

Where is the boiler supply sensor from the Tekmar located in the photos?  It looks like it's on the supply from the Buderus.

I think I can say with confidence it's not where it should be and it's not where the diagram says it should be.

I would put it just to the right of the three way valve, just before the first tee for the first circulator.  Now we just have to figure out how to close T-T on the Aquasmart.


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## R Mannino (Dec 14, 2013)

Get one of these  http://www.functionaldevices.com/building-automation/display.php?model=RIBU1C

Take the wht/blu wire to one of the stage 2 terminals on the Tekmar and the wht/yellow to the other stage 2 terminal.
Then take the yellow and orange wires one each to T-T on the Aquasmart.  Cap the wires you don't use.

http://www.functionaldevices.com/images/diagrams/RIBU1C.jpg


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## McKraut (Dec 15, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> Get one of these  http://www.functionaldevices.com/building-automation/display.php?model=RIBU1C
> 
> Take the wht/blu wire to one of the stage 2 terminals on the Tekmar and the wht/yellow to the other stage 2 terminal.
> Then take the yellow and orange wires one each to T-T on the Aquasmart.  Cap the wires you don't use.
> ...



The relay just showed


R Mannino said:


> Where is the boiler supply sensor from the Tekmar located in the photos?  It looks like it's on the supply from the Buderus.
> 
> I think I can say with confidence it's not where it should be and it's not where the diagram says it should be.
> 
> I would put it just to the right of the three way valve, just before the first tee for the first circulator.  Now we just have to figure out how to close T-T on the Aquasmart.



Holy sheet! I feel stupid. I can't believe I did that. I don't have even have anybody to blame for that one. I got the relay delivered from Amazon yesterday. I am not off work until Thursday so I will be taking care of it then. Thanks for all your help.

Bob


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## R Mannino (Dec 17, 2013)

Let us know what happens.


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## McKraut (Dec 20, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> Let us know what happens.



 It didn't work. There was no difference, that I saw, before the relay was attached. I did notice that the red light did not come on after I wired it up. Would this be a problem? I verified that I wire it the way you had posted above. Any other recommendations?

Bob


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## R Mannino (Dec 20, 2013)

Is the Tekmar still moving the 3 way valve?


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## McKraut (Dec 20, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> Is the Tekmar still moving the 3 way valve?



Yes, it did.


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## R Mannino (Dec 20, 2013)

Try wiring the RIB at the three way valve on the two terminals that have 24 volts when the three way is positioned for flow at the oil boiler.


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## McKraut (Dec 21, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> Try wiring the RIB at the three way valve on the two terminals that have 24 volts when the three way is positioned for flow at the oil boiler.



 I wired wh/blu and wh/yel to the actuator and yellow and orange to the Aquasmart. When the TEKMAR calls for Stage 2, there is no movement on the actuator.

Bob


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## R Mannino (Dec 22, 2013)

Are we sure we didn't move any wires from their original position?  RIB relay gets wired in parallel with the actuator.


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## McKraut (Dec 22, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> Are we sure we didn't move any wires from their original position?  RIB relay gets wired in parallel with the actuator.



You are correct. I pulled the thermostat wires. I am on my way downstairs to correct it. I'll let you know.

Bob


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## McKraut (Dec 22, 2013)

I wired it in parallel with thermostat wires. I have the yellow and orange on the Aquasmart, and wh/yel and wh/blu on the TEKMAR. The RIB's light was flashing quickly and it was clicking (in concert with the light flashing). The oil burner kicked on without a call for heat from the TEKMAR.

Bob


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## R Mannino (Dec 23, 2013)

The RIB will stay constantly lit when powered correctly.  What I'm trying to do is get the RIB to close T-T on the Aquasmart when the 3 way valve is set for flow to the Buderus.  We can do it a few different ways.  We need to know what terminals have power on the 3 way valve and when (what position).  The RIB has normally open and normally closed contacts allowing us to do it a number of different ways.


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## McKraut (Dec 24, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> The RIB will stay constantly lit when powered correctly.  What I'm trying to do is get the RIB to close T-T on the Aquasmart when the 3 way valve is set for flow to the Buderus.  We can do it a few different ways.  We need to know what terminals have power on the 3 way valve and when (what position).  The RIB has normally open and normally closed contacts allowing us to do it a number of different ways.



Ok. I jut spent the last hour or so measuring voltage across the actuator in response to the display on the TEKMAR. I'm not sure if it is new, or it is just the first time I noticed it, but when I power up the oil burner, and there is no call for heat, the actuator closes the 3way. When there is call for heat from Stage 1, there is no change in position of the actuator. When stage 2 calls for heat the actuator opens the 3way valve. Is it possible I was told to put the 3way valve in backwards? I have "B" as N/O and "A" as  N/C (yes that looked backwards to me before I put it in, but I did ask and verify that is the correct way to install it). If that's not the problem, I can give you all the results for the voltage tests I did this morning.


Bob


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## R Mannino (Dec 24, 2013)

Do we currently have any wires between the actuator and the Aquasmart?


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## McKraut (Dec 24, 2013)

Yes, there is still the thermostat wire. (I disconnected the RIB because it continued to chatter and fired the oil burner) 

Without the RIB attached:

With power to the oil boiler off, valve is open, and there is no voltage at actuator

With power to the oil boiler on, and no call for heat, valve closes and there is 24 volts between blue/brown and blue/black

With power to the oil boiler on, and first stage calls for heat, valve stays closed, and there is 24 volts between blue/black and small amount of voltage (around 1/4V) between blue/brown

With power to the oil boiler on, and second stage calls for heat, valve stays closed, and there is 24 volts between blue/brown and blue/black

If I turn off power to the oil burner, the valve opens.

This is what I recorded this morning. Now that I am reading it, something must be wrong. I would think that the RIB would be lit and not chatter with the boiler on because it is getting 24 volts from the acuator. I won't be able to check it tonight or tomorrow because of Christmas. I will check it out this weekend and recheck the data and record it for you.
 Thank you for all your help so far. Have a wonderful Christmas.

 Where are you on L.I.? My son lives in Port Jeff.

Bob


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## R Mannino (Dec 24, 2013)

We'll get this sorted out Bob, I'll digest your last post and we'll come up with a plan.
Pt. Jeff isn't far, less than ten miles,  I'm in Ridge.

Enjoy your Christmas as well.

Ron


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## McKraut (Dec 30, 2013)

R Mannino said:


> We'll get this sorted out Bob, I'll digest your last post and we'll come up with a plan.
> Pt. Jeff isn't far, less than ten miles,  I'm in Ridge.
> 
> Enjoy your Christmas as well.
> ...



Hi Ron,

 Can you open a Excel file? I can't post it here. I took  a bunch of readings today and I would like to send them to you.

Thanks,

Bob


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## R Mannino (Dec 30, 2013)

I think I have Office on one of my pc's, I'll sure try.


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## McKraut (Jan 1, 2014)

R Mannino said:


> I think I have Office on one of my pc's, I'll sure try.


Ron,

 I sent the info in a message.

Bob


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## McKraut (Jan 1, 2014)

McKraut said:


> Ron,
> 
> I sent the info in a message.
> 
> Bob


Scratch that. It wouldn't let me drop the file in the message. Can you send me an email address?

Bob


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## R Mannino (Feb 1, 2014)

Update, it appears we've found a fix that Mr. McKraut can live with.
Just wanted to let everyone know what a great resource this forum is for all of us.
Glad I could help.

Ron


_Ron,

  I wanted to send you an email to let you know everything is working 
just fine. I put in a switch to reset the zone valve to open whenever I 
go back to wood. I just flip the switch and I am ready to go. Several 
times over the last 2 weeks the wood boiler could not keep up with the 
cold temperatures (it's been as low as -9°), and the oil kicked on some 
time in the middle of the night. We woke up to a warm house, thanks to you.
  Keep warm and thanks again,

Bob_


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## ewdudley (Feb 2, 2014)

R Mannino said:


> it appears we've found a fix that Mr. McKraut can live with


What was the fix?


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## McKraut (Feb 2, 2014)

ewdudley said:


> What was the fix?



Ron will have to explain it to you or maybe you will be able to deduce it from the information below. I followed instructions that Ron gave me, but I have no idea why I did what I did.

Actuator Wires -- Connection(s)

Brown -- Stage 1 (RED) on TEKMAR

Blue -- Stage 2 (Black) -- Yellow/White from RIB

Black -- Stage 2 (Red) -- Blue/White from RIB

Thanks again to you, Ron, and Scott (Clarkburg).

* I can't tell you how happy I am now that my wife is warm*.

Bob


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## Clarkbug (Feb 8, 2014)

Glad you got it sorted Bob!  Happy wife, happy life!


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