# My Next Chainsaw Will Be A...



## BlankBlankBlank (Nov 15, 2011)

...STIHL.  I got offered an entire Silver Maple from a local home owner who had it taken down in his backyard by a professional service.  The service gave the home owner a super deal to just drop the entire tree in his back yard.  While the tree service cut the brush, chipped, and hauled it, they left the entire trunk in two pieces.  Also, they left all the limbs great than 3".

Well, the home owner offered me the tree.  He even rented a 24" Stihl MS 361 over this past weekend.  His plan was to buck the trunk into 16" rounds for me.  Well, he had a hard time running the saw.  So, when I came to pick up wood on Sunday afternoon, the trunk was still in one piece.

The home owner offered to rent the saw for me to use to cut the trunk.  I think he might have been a little intimidated by the trunk because it was perched about shoulder high off the ground.  Definitely a possible rolling issue.  I reluctantly took him up on his offer, because I really hadn't planned bucking it out.  I figured there was enough work simply hauling the wood home.  But since I just cannot say no to wood, I grabbed the chainsaw and got to cuttin'.

So, today, I cut the trunk using the rented Stihl MS 361 with a 24" bar.  I loved it!!  The chain needed almost no tension adjustment the entire day.  Cuts were clean.  Easy to get flat cuts on logs greater than 24".  This saw is solid.  A real workhorse.  I sure wish that I had purchased a Stihl instead of my Echo.

The first couple photos show the main trunks prior to my cutting.  The third photo shows a series of cuts roughly half way through.  The fourth photo shows a nice flush cut.  I love how that 24" bar makes getting straight, smooth cuts so easy.  The last photo...the powerhouse...MS 361.

Now, I need to figure out which Stihl to save for.  Do I get a professional saw, such as MS 362 or MS 441?  Or do I opt for a mid-range Stihl, such as MS 311 or MS 391?

I'd like to run a 24" bar but be able to change to a 20" on occasion.


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## punchy (Nov 15, 2011)

i recently bought a ms362.  i have not used it as much as would like due to overtime lately, but when i did i loved it.


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## Blue2ndaries (Nov 15, 2011)

I bought a MS362 this past June.  My only regret was not getting that saw sooner.  I never knew what I was missing, struggling to get thru 20" white oak trunks w/my MS250.  The MS362 is a light saber!  Was making cuts in about 1/4 the time.


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## BlankBlankBlank (Nov 15, 2011)

Blue2ndaries said:
			
		

> I bought a MS362 this past June.  My only regret was not getting that saw sooner.  I never knew what I was missing, struggling to get thru 20" white oak trunks w/my MS250.  The MS362 is a light saber!  Was making cuts in about 1/4 the time.



Wow!  That's quite an improvement.  Did you get the standard MS 362 or the MS 362 C-Q?


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## BlankBlankBlank (Nov 15, 2011)

punchy said:
			
		

> i recently bought a ms362.  i have not used it as much as would like due to overtime lately, but when i did i loved it.



The standard MS 362 or the MS 362 C-Q?


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## TreePointer (Nov 15, 2011)

WoodNStuff said:
			
		

> I'd like to run a 24" bar but be able to change to a 20" on occasion.



That statement comfortably fits the 70cc saw.

But, but, the 361 did fine with the 24" bar, you say.  Ah, but you were cutting silver maple.  Try that in oak.

A 60cc saw is fine wearing a 20" bar most of the time and occasionally a 24/25" bar.  Also the 361 oiler is stingy, so 25" is the limit (power issues aside).


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## BlankBlankBlank (Nov 15, 2011)

TreePointer said:
			
		

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TreePointer, thanks for the tips.  I must say that the 361 generally performed great.  It bogged down once in a while, especially as the chain dulled.  I could tell that a few more cc's would have been helpful on a few cuts.  But, I'm not a professional tree feller.  I'm a wood burner.  So, I could probably get by with a 60 cc saw.

The 70 cc saw would be the 441 which has a price tag a little higher than I'd care to spend.  Then again, it's a buy once kind of investment.  Right?


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## Blue2ndaries (Nov 15, 2011)

WoodNStuff said:
			
		

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I just posted a resp. to this other thread re: my MS362 running it side by side w/my MS250 on 20" white oak this past summer.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/83398/P15/

I got the regular MS362.  I had heard that there was a recall on the C-Q model as the extra brake mechanism had issues w/engaging & disengaging.  I opted for one less failure mode.


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## blacktail (Nov 15, 2011)

Nice looking wood!


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## MasterMech (Nov 15, 2011)

A MS361 is a wonderful way to get introduced to a Stihl!

If you're intent is to run a 24" bar most of the time in big trunks, then a 441 or 460 is your saw.  A 362 is very capable of running a 24" bar but it really shines with a 20" instead.  If you said most of the wood you find is 20" or less and occasionally you need a 24" bar, then I'd say the 362 is perfect.

The mid-range saws are good but again, to run a 24" bar as your primary bar, you're in pro-saw territory there.  The 391 is about on par with a 362 spec wise and that's as big as Stihl goes in a mid-range machine.


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## BlankBlankBlank (Nov 15, 2011)

Blue2ndaries said:
			
		

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Thanks for the info.  Nice post.  I suspect your 250 is comparable in operation to my Echo.  The specs are similar too.

I really like Stihl now that I've tried it.  Sure wish I would have had this experience prior to buying my Echo.  Did I say that already?  LOL


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## BlankBlankBlank (Nov 15, 2011)

JamiePNW78 said:
			
		

> Nice looking wood!



Thanks.


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## Blue2ndaries (Nov 15, 2011)

WoodNStuff said:
			
		

> Thanks for the info.  Nice post.  I suspect your 250 is comparable in operation to my Echo.  The specs are similar too.
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> I really like Stihl now that I've tried it.  Sure wish I would have had this experience prior to buying my Echo.  Did I say that already?  LOL



I actually did a lot of reading on this forum re: the 361 and then the 362 came out and decided to get that.  Again, I didn't know what I was missing and I was almost getting angry w/myself thinking about how much time and energy I wasted trying to buck up big trunks like the oak and big Douglas fir (30-48") all these years with the MS250.        Anyway, water under the bridge...I REALLY enjoy using the 362   , it IS heavy though but makes up for its weight in less effort to cut, if that makes sense.


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## BlankBlankBlank (Nov 15, 2011)

MasterMech said:
			
		

> A MS361 is a wonderful way to get introduced to a Stihl!
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> If you're intent is to run a 24" bar most of the time in big trunks, then a 441 or 460 is your saw.  A 362 is very capable of running a 24" bar but it really shines with a 20" instead.  If you said most of the wood you find is 20" or less and occasionally you need a 24" bar, then I'd say the 362 is perfect.
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> The mid-range saws are good but again, to run a 24" bar as your primary bar, you're in pro-saw territory there.  The 391 is about on par with a 362 spec wise and that's as big as Stihl goes in a mid-range machine.



It's a tough call, MasterMech.  I get a fair amount of wood through a couple of tree service guys I know.  They like to give me the big rounds because I have a hydraulic splitter.  They take the small stuff for their shop.  Sometimes it's bucked out to 18", but mostly bucked out to random lengths needing some trimming.  Other times I get a couple of trunks dumped in my driveway.

I guess I'm looking for a saw to run a 24" bar for the big stuff when it comes and run my Echo on the smaller stuff.  The dilema is in the price tag.  I like the 441.  The list price is $880 with a 20" bar.  A saw with 24" bar is not listed online.  I guess I'll just have to go to the dealer to figure out what they can do for me.  Perhaps they'll have a used saw?

The other consideration is that I don't do this for a living.  I do it for the wood heat.  Maybe I'll look at the 362 with a 24" bar for big stuff and keep my Echo for the smaller stuff?


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## BlankBlankBlank (Nov 15, 2011)

Blue2ndaries said:
			
		

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That is one thing that I noticed this morning about the 361: it's heavy!  But, as you said, "less effort to cut."  I'm going to head over to the dealer this week or next to find out what they can do for me.  Maybe I'll find a used saw that will fill the bill?


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## Blue2ndaries (Nov 15, 2011)

WoodNStuff said:
			
		

> That is one thing that I noticed this morning about the 361: it's heavy!  But, as you said, "less effort to cut."  I'm going to head over to the dealer this week or next to find out what they can do for me.  Maybe I'll find a used saw that will fill the bill?



My dealer was willing to deal; I got about 12% off MSRP.  But again, I've bought over $5k worth of outdoor equipment from them, so they always cut me some slack.   My dealer has been great for service and parts which I think is just as important as a "great price".  Another dealer 40min away was actually willing to do $21 less on the 362, but I didn't want to go that far for service.


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## BlankBlankBlank (Nov 15, 2011)

Blue2ndaries said:
			
		

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Good info.  I'll tell them to sharpen their pencil!


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## HittinSteel (Nov 15, 2011)

I doubt you would ever regret ponying up the extra coin for a 362/441


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## BlankBlankBlank (Nov 15, 2011)

I know my next saw is a Stihl.  I do wonder how the Husqvarna compare to Stihl.  Notice the Husqvarna have more plastic.


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## HittinSteel (Nov 15, 2011)

WoodNStuff said:
			
		

> I know my next saw is a Stihl.  I do wonder how the Husqvarna compare to Stihl.  Notice the Husqvarna have more plastic.



I've noticed a lot of people say that, but having owned stihls and huskys its never made any sense to me. I prefer pro grade huskys to stihl.....but that doesn't mean the stihls are not nice as well. They compare very evenly and a choice between the two in the pro class becomes simple preference by the buyer


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## firefighterjake (Nov 15, 2011)

WoodNStuff said:
			
		

> I know my next saw is a Stihl.  I do wonder how the Husqvarna compare to Stihl.  Notice the Husqvarna have more plastic.



Probably depends on the model . . . and honestly plastic doesn't bother me . . . today's plastics aren't exactly Bakelite.


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## HittinSteel (Nov 15, 2011)

firefighterjake said:
			
		

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and it keeps the weight down!


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## lukem (Nov 15, 2011)

WoodNStuff said:
			
		

> I know my next saw is a Stihl.  I do wonder how the Husqvarna compare to Stihl.  Notice the Husqvarna have more plastic.



I have the same saw pictured in the OP.  I love it.  Picked it up used for $300 with a new 20" bar and chain.  The Stihl brand chains (when properly sharpened) are among the best, so that probably had a lot to do with the operation of the saw.

I have run a couple comparable Huskys (pro-saws my buddy has...don't know my Husky model numbers) and they were good too.  They don't feel as plasticy as the ones you seen in Home Depot or TSC.  I don't think you can go wrong with either....it will probably come down to which dealer is closer and you feel more comfortable with.

On a side I note, I fear you are in the early stages of CAD which was contracted from operating a pro-saw.  Sadly, there is no cure.  It would be a good idea to sit down with your wife, explain your condition, and that multiple chainsaw purchases, chainsaw dinner conversation, and hours of internet research on chainsaws are imminent.  Your condition will exhibit a rapid "degradation" in advance of your first purchase...and slowly continue until you turn into Jay.  Best of luck.


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## ISeeDeadBTUs (Nov 15, 2011)

Not only was the guy giving you the wood, he was going to cut it up for you?!? *That*, was a deal!!

I've never run a Husq, though they seem to have a larger market share around here. My next saw will stihl be a 660. But honestly, the 440 can hold up longer cutting Oak than I can :red: 


Nice wood score!!


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## Flatbedford (Nov 15, 2011)

I just ran my 036, which I assume is similar to the 361/362, with my new 25" full chisel setup in some Red Oak for the first time yesterday. It was plenty powerful and cut very nicely. Did it bog down a couple times? Yes. Could I prevent that by being a little less aggressive and letting the saw cut at its own pace? You bet. For a pro tree cutter 25" is probably too much bar for this saw. For a firewood cutter it is probably just fine to have the bigger bar handy for big stuff and run a 20" most of the time like I do. I also have a 16" bar for the saw and while it is probably a major cutting machine with it, I doubt I will use it often.

CAD can easily be contracted by operating a pro saw. I was happy with my 029 and 20" bar for 15 years. Then I ran a friend's 036. I talked him into selling it to me and now I want another, bigger pro saw! Owners of mid range saws should avoid using pro saws, unless they are ready to buy one.


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## smokinj (Nov 15, 2011)

WoodNStuff said:
			
		

> ...STIHL.  I got offered an entire Silver Maple from a local home owner who had it taken down in his backyard by a professional service.  The service gave the home owner a super deal to just drop the entire tree in his back yard.  While the tree service cut the brush, chipped, and hauled it, they left the entire trunk in two pieces.  Also, they left all the limbs great than 3".
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> Well, the home owner offered me the tree.  He even rented a 24" Stihl MS 361 over this past weekend.  His plan was to buck the trunk into 16" rounds for me.  Well, he had a hard time running the saw.  So, when I came to pick up wood on Sunday afternoon, the trunk was still in one piece.
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Runing a 24inch most of the time 441......If your #'S Were reversed it would be 362.


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## pyper (Nov 15, 2011)

I have the 311 (59cc). I went for the anti-vibration feature. It definitely works -- I can cut a lot of wood, and not have any soreness or fatigue in my hands, which is an important consideration for me (musician).

I've never used any of the other Stihl saws, so I can't compare, but I'm in the process of cutting up a 36" red oak with an 18" bar. No troubles cutting, aside from having hit a rock with the chain (DOH!). 

I've had it a bit over a year now. Really pleased. I kept my smaller saw thinking I'd use it for smaller stuff, but I really don't. The 311, despite being bigger and heavier, is generally easier to work with, and the extra weight makes it cut a lot faster, so there's less fatigue. It also runs a lot smoother (less vibration) despite having an engine that's twice as big.


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## KarlP (Nov 15, 2011)

"I sure wish that I had purchased a Stihl instead of my Echo."

I don't think there is anything wrong with Echo or Dolmar, Efco, Husqvarna, Solo, etc either.  The issue is you only have a 40cc saw.  Most people serious about cutting wood end up with both a light weight one and a powerful one.  My dad has a 40cc and 70cc.  My uncle has 50cc and 65cc. I have cheapo electric, 50cc, and 85cc.

You've got your light one.  Decide how powerful you want and then pick the best one for you in that size.  When I was saw shopping last, I thought Stihl made a really nice 60cc saw (361), Husqvarna made a really nice 70cc saw (372), and Dolmar made a really nice 80cc saw (7900).


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## Jags (Nov 15, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> Runing a 24inch most of the time 441......If your #'S Were reversed it would be 362.



I agree 100%.  If the 25" bar was the occasional use, the 361/362 is a fine machine.  If the 25" is the primary bar, step it up.  I have run a 361 for quite a few years now.  I run an 18" for primary and a 25" for occasional use.  The perfect fit.

(You should see the 361 with an 18" bar - WHOO HOOO.  Luke and his light saber wouldn't stand a chance.)


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## TreePointer (Nov 15, 2011)

If you want to check out Husqvarna, the 60cc model to look at is the new 562XP. 

For 60cc's, you can't go wrong with 361/362, but some say the 562XP is the new best-in-class.  I'm eager to try one.


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## smokinj (Nov 15, 2011)

TreePointer said:
			
		

> If you want to check out Husqvarna, the 60cc model to look at is the new 562XP.
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> For 60cc's, you can't go wrong with 361/362, but some say the 562XP is the new best-in-class.  I'm eager to try one.



I hate the hype on saw's. No matter what is said just remember its still a saw. Best in class is who owns it.


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## Bigg_Redd (Nov 15, 2011)

WoodNStuff said:
			
		

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The 361 is only "heavy" compared to that 40cc tickler you've been running.  And most of that weight is in the extra 6" of bar and chain.  Also, if you thought the 361 was heavy you can go ahead and cross the 440/441/460 off the list as they are even heavier.  

I say pull the trigger on the 362.  Put a 25" bar & a skip tooth chain on it and never look back.


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## Bigg_Redd (Nov 15, 2011)

HittinSteel said:
			
		

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There might be some regional price differences, but, around here the 372xp is less expensive ($60-$80) and I think a pound lighter than the MS440/441


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## TreePointer (Nov 15, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> I hate the hype on saw's. No matter what is said just remember its still a saw. Best in class is who owns it.



There is always hype, but it was hard to say that there was a better (power, weight, torque, overall feel, AV, fuel economy, etc.) 60cc saw than the 361 in its time.  

There are a few folks I know (not just Internet forum friends) who have tried the 562 and like it a lot.


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## TreePointer (Nov 15, 2011)

And I'm not saying that everyone needs an expensive pro saw.  I think it helps to point out what all the top performers are as a reference point when coming to a decision on a new saw.


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## Blue2ndaries (Nov 15, 2011)

Bigg_Redd said:
			
		

> I say pull the trigger on the 362.  Put a 25" bar & a skip tooth chain on it and never look back.



I went w/a 25" bar on my 362 and am glad I did.  My dealer sent me off w/a "yellow" chain that I think is not a full skip, but more agressive than the one it came with.  I really liked it and bought another one for backup.  Haven't experienced any lugging or such.  I've gotten over the "weightiness" of the 362 as I really let the saw do most of the work now as opposed to me leaning on and muscling thru as I did for so long w/the MS250.  I can merely hold and guide the saw thru the cuts, and in certain situations the weight of the saw actually seems to help it "sit" thru the cut.  If that makes sense.


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## wkpoor (Nov 16, 2011)

The best way to buy a saw is to use it first. Since most dealers don't have demo saws and a variety of wood to cut on the best thing is to get on Arboristsite and find a local GTG near you. This site might be a good place to chat but it ain't a chainsaw site. Before I bought my first new saw I went to a GTG and ran several new out of the box saws of all colors. Plus I could interact with perfessionals and racers. Then I made my my decision. Get on Arboristsite!


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## Thistle (Nov 16, 2011)

KarlP said:
			
		

> I don't think there is anything wrong with Echo or Dolmar, Efco, Husqvarna, Solo, etc either.  The issue is you only have a 40cc saw.  Most people serious about cutting wood end up with both a light weight one and a powerful one.  My dad has a 40cc and 70cc.  My uncle has 50cc and 65cc. I have cheapo electric, 50cc, and 85cc.
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> You've got your light one.  Decide how powerful you want and then pick the best one for you in that size.



You got it. Stepping up to a 2 or 3 saw plan,even though it adds to your cash outlay upfront - really makes your work quicker & much easier.The quicker you get done,the less time you're holding the saws means less strain on the back,arms & shoulders.


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## wkpoor (Nov 16, 2011)

Thistle said:
			
		

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I'll take one exception there. Echo should never have built a chainsaw in todays market. Unless you want to take it home and cut one tree hehehee. Way over priced piece of junk brand. They need to stick to weedwackers.


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## Thistle (Nov 16, 2011)

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Well my Echo is 30 yrs old & built much better than they are now.Some years back when I was much more agile,it was dropped from 30 ft & started right up.When it finally dies I'm leaning towards a 338XP or whatever number they call it by then.


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## BlankBlankBlank (Nov 16, 2011)

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Funny!  Whatever I've got, it certainly involves a love of cutting, splitting, and burning wood.  I'll leave the stacking to the wife and kids.  LOL  I'm generally a very handy person and love to work with my hands.  So, getting back into burning wood is another outlet for my love of working with my hands.


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## BlankBlankBlank (Nov 16, 2011)

ISeeDeadBTUs said:
			
		

> Not only was the guy giving you the wood, he was going to cut it up for you?!? *That*, was a deal!!
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> I've never run a Husq, though they seem to have a larger market share around here. My next saw will stihl be a 660. But honestly, the 440 can hold up longer cutting Oak than I can :red:
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It's interesting how I came to score this wood.  A home owner calls me, saying that a tree service is going to drop a tree in his backyard.  I asked a few questions, fearing that the trunk would be huge.  I only have an 18" saw.  Well, I told the home owner that the trunk needed to be bucked out to 18" lengths but preferably 16".  I told him to have his tree service at least buck the trunk.  The home owner ends up calling me back, saying that the tree service had a helper who burns wood.  So the home owner basically tells me that he feels obligated to give the helper the tree since he helped take it down.  Now never mind that he got paid to help.  I nicely said okay but asked that he keep me in mind should it happen that this helper leave him with a backyard full of wood.  I also gave the home owner some friendly advice, encouraging him to have the guy buck the trunk first.  I figured that if the helper didn't take all the wood, then at least this home owner wouldn't be stuck with wood in his yard that most wood burning folks could not process.  I also told him that I was just being neighborly and that whether I got the wood or not, I didn't want him to get stuck with a big mess.

About two weeks pass.  I get a call from the home owner who tells me that the helper ended up getting called back to work at his main gig working 10 hours per day.  Also with deer hunting starting up the helper admits to not having time to get the wood.  The home owner asks me if I want it.  I pause and then ask questions about the size of the wood, etc.  The home owner says that he knows that I have an 18" saw so rented a 24" Stihl and will buck out the trunks, etc.

Well, I end up bucking the trunks, but the home owner rents the saw.  I also get a great pro saw experience leading to a case of CAD.  LOL


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## BlankBlankBlank (Nov 16, 2011)

Flatbedford said:
			
		

> I just ran my 036, which I assume is similar to the 361/362, with my new 25" full chisel setup in some Red Oak for the first time yesterday. It was plenty powerful and cut very nicely. Did it bog down a couple times? Yes. Could I prevent that by being a little less aggressive and letting the saw cut at its own pace? You bet. For a pro tree cutter 25" is probably too much bar for this saw. For a firewood cutter it is probably just fine to have the bigger bar handy for big stuff and run a 20" most of the time like I do. I also have a 16" bar for the saw and while it is probably a major cutting machine with it, I doubt I will use it often.
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> CAD can easily be contracted by operating a pro saw. I was happy with my 029 and 20" bar for 15 years. Then I ran a friend's 036. I talked him into selling it to me and now I want another, bigger pro saw! Owners of mid range saws should avoid using pro saws, unless they are ready to buy one.



Dr. Flatbedford, my symptoms exactly.  I only used the pro saw for just a few hours.  But now I can't stop thinking about getting my very own pro saw.


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## BlankBlankBlank (Nov 16, 2011)

KarlP said:
			
		

> "I sure wish that I had purchased a Stihl instead of my Echo."
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> I don't think there is anything wrong with Echo or Dolmar, Efco, Husqvarna, Solo, etc either.  The issue is you only have a 40cc saw.  Most people serious about cutting wood end up with both a light weight one and a powerful one.  My dad has a 40cc and 70cc.  My uncle has 50cc and 65cc. I have cheapo electric, 50cc, and 85cc.
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> You've got your light one.  Decide how powerful you want and then pick the best one for you in that size.  When I was saw shopping last, I thought Stihl made a really nice 60cc saw (361), Husqvarna made a really nice 70cc saw (372), and Dolmar made a really nice 80cc saw (7900).



Is my Echo CS-400 a bad saw?  No.  In fact, with a sharp blade, it really cuts nicely and is light.  I noticed this later fact by comparison to the weight of the Stihl 361.  I just had such a positive experience running the Stihl saw that I wish that I had purchased a Stihl instead, so I could have experienced that before now.

Maybe I'm really saying that I like the feel of a pro saw.  Since this is my first pro saw experience, I can't be sure.  Perhaps I'll check out some other pro saws to find out.


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## BlankBlankBlank (Nov 16, 2011)

Bigg_Redd said:
			
		

> The 361 is only "heavy" compared to that 40cc tickler you've been running.  And most of that weight is in the extra 6" of bar and chain.  Also, if you thought the 361 was heavy you can go ahead and cross the 440/441/460 off the list as they are even heavier.
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> I say pull the trigger on the 362.  Put a 25" bar & a skip tooth chain on it and never look back.



Fully agree that "heavy" is relative.  And that's what I was really saying.  I'm the guy that picks it up and moves it, even if it needs another set of hands.  If they're not there, then I just get it done.  But holding on to a vibrating chunk of metal all day can get a little tiring.  So a lighter saw with a lot of power would be fine by me.

I'm tempted by the 362.  It's definitely more in line my price point.  But I also need to get a saw with enough umpff!  No good spending $580 today, only to spend another $700 next year.


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## klustgarten (Nov 16, 2011)

Either a Stihl or a Husqvarna will serve you well. I have owned several saws of each brand and you can't go wrong either way. That said consider service. Service is important to me. Where I live the best service available for Husqvarna. The college that I work for buys all their equipment from a local dealer and I get good prices and great service from them on my personal stuff to. When I lived in NJ I had Stihl since that's what I got the best service for in that area.

One week ago I needed a larger saw. There is a ton of wood available but it is all 2' to 3' in diameter. Since this is enough wood to heat the house with for many years it made the purchase worth while. I bought a Husqvarna 570 and it is a beautiful saw. It eats up whatever I cut fast and with minimal effort on my part. I have never had a saw in this size/power range before and after cutting a little over 3 cords in the past week I never want to be without one. The 570 is 67.9 cc, 14.55 lbs, 4.9 hp, and I got it with a 24" bar. It is a pleasure to use and doesn't feel heavy to me at all even after cutting for a few hours. There is plenty of power for 24" and it is rated for up to a 28". Today I cut up the trunk from a red oak that was 3' in diameter it was fun!

I guess what I am trying to say is that if like me you want a 24" bar for large stuff go for a 70cc class saw. You will be happy that you did rather then pushing a smaller saw to the limit. While you can get through the stuff I cut today with a smaller saw and a 20" bar it is no fun and takes a lot longer. It is ok for an occasional use but for frequent use on big stuff stick with the 70cc class.


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## MasterMech (Nov 16, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

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I'm with ya' here Jay. The operator makes the biggest difference for sure.  That said, the 562XP sure does look to be a threat to the MS362...


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## tamarack (Nov 16, 2011)

I have a MS362 on my wish list.


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## BlankBlankBlank (Nov 19, 2011)

Here's a pic of the "devastation" that the Stihl MS 361 unleashed.  Where did the trunks go??


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## CTYank (Nov 19, 2011)

Allow me to restate the obvious (to me.)
A saw is only as good as the edge on its chain cutters. And that's perishable.
If I'm going to obsess about brand/model/bar-length/yada-yada, that'll be after seeing to the chain being razor-sharp.
Simplest, cheapest way to mazimize bang/buck: file early, file often. (Maybe that's why my 35+ yr old Echo is still competent at limbing.)


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## BlankBlankBlank (Nov 19, 2011)

CTYank said:
			
		

> Allow me to restate the obvious (to me.)
> A saw is only as good as the edge on its chain cutters. And that's perishable.
> If I'm going to obsess about brand/model/bar-length/yada-yada, that'll be after seeing to the chain being razor-sharp.
> Simplest, cheapest way to mazimize bang/buck: file early, file often. (Maybe that's why my 35+ yr old Echo is still competent at limbing.)



Yup!  Yup!  With you on the whole post.  I just sharpened my 18" chain for my 40 cc Echo using my new Timber Tuff grinder.  First time I ever used a chain grinder.  Got it very, very sharp.  Cuts better than factory sharpened chain.  Still need a bigger saw (higher cc with longer bar).  Though happier with my Echo now.


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## MasterMech (Nov 20, 2011)

CTYank said:
			
		

> Allow me to restate the obvious (to me.)
> A saw is only as good as the edge on its chain cutters. And that's perishable.
> If I'm going to obsess about brand/model/bar-length/yada-yada, that'll be after seeing to the chain being razor-sharp.
> Simplest, cheapest way to mazimize bang/buck: file early, file often. (Maybe that's why my 35+ yr old Echo is still competent at limbing.)



The operator, the chain, then the powerhead.  In that order. A lousy operator will ruin a perfectly good chain and a ratty chain will ruin even the best powerhead unless the operator intervenes.  Never heard of a crappy saw ruining a good chain and have never heard of a busted operator where it truly was the fault of the chain.


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## Hass (Nov 20, 2011)

I bought a used 390 off of craigslist, never looked back.
I'm one of the people that leave fuel in their saw... (I know I shouldn't) Anytime I need it, even if it's been sitting for 3-4 months, she only takes 2-3 pulls to start up. First one choked, then give it another tug on run and it's good to go.

I'm swinging a 18" bar, flies through anything I've cut so far. I have a 22" that it came with, but I rarely cut anything bigger than 14-16"
We'll see how it does when I get a log load this winter.


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## computeruser (Nov 25, 2011)

CTYank said:
			
		

> Allow me to restate the obvious (to me.)
> A saw is only as good as the edge on its chain cutters. And that's perishable.
> If I'm going to obsess about brand/model/bar-length/yada-yada, that'll be after seeing to the chain being razor-sharp.
> Simplest, cheapest way to mazimize bang/buck: file early, file often. (Maybe that's why my 35+ yr old Echo is still competent at limbing.)



+1.  You're right on.

All the power in the world doesn't mean a damned thing with a dull chain, or one that has been poorly sharpened.  I went through the HP phase a few years back, slinging Dolmar7900s and warmed-over 066s with 20" bars for felling work.  Yes, they cut fast, but I wasn't really any more productive for it.  Lately all my felling, and much of my bucking work has been done with the good ol' Dolmar 5100s (18", 3/8" chain) and much of the rest gets done with a Husky 238 (13", .325" chain).  The only time the big motor/short bar really comes in handy is in making the same cut over and over, every 16-20", when blocking up a long log for firewood, but even then the other saws move along plenty fast enough in wood that is 1-1.5x bar length.

50cc trail clearing:


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## smokinj (Nov 25, 2011)

MasterMech said:
			
		

> smokinjay said:
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I think huskys have a few real threats.....


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## MasterMech (Nov 28, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> MasterMech said:
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Their distribution/retail model comes to mind.....


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## TreePointer (Nov 28, 2011)

MasterMech said:
			
		

> Their distribution/retail model comes to mind.....



Lolzer! :lol:


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## Bigg_Redd (Nov 28, 2011)

MasterMech said:
			
		

> smokinjay said:
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ouch


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