# Choosing an axe / maul size.



## TheLastDeadMouse (Feb 25, 2014)

I've decided I'm going to treat myself to a bit of a luxury and buy a Gransfors Bruks splitting axe or maul.  (I understand its not the most cost effective way to split wood, I'm investing a small portion of the money I've saved burning wood on something I'll enjoy).  

Although I have a decent amount of axe experience from my teens, I haven't used one much since then (currently 28).  I'm trying to decide what axe weight / length / type is most appropriate for me.  I understand this is largely user preference, but I'm hoping people can share their experiences as a starting point for me.  6'2", 195 lbs, average fitness level.  The stuff I'll be splitting will probably never be significantly larger than 18" - 20" rounds, perhaps a rare 24".

The two choices I'm looking at now are the large splitting axe and the splitting maul

Large Splitting Axe: 3.5 lbs head, 27.5" handle.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Splitting Maul: 5.5 lbs head, 31.5" handle.








If I like the splitting axe or maul as much as review have lead to believe, I may also get a felling axe that will be used occasionally for its intended purpose, but also as a decoration.  It'll be used for tree's anywhere from 8" - 24"  Trying to decide between the Scandinavian Forest Axe and American Felling Axe

Scandinavian: 2 lbs head, 25" handle






American Felling: 3.3 lbs head, 32" or 35.5" handle.


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## jatoxico (Feb 25, 2014)

Who can say what's right for someone else but I have the small splitting axe and like it. Axe is more versatile than a maul so can be used for making kindling or resplitting so that's my choice.


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## Spud Monkey (Feb 25, 2014)

Just get a Fiskars X27, a 8 lb splitting maul from Lowes with sledge hammer and call it day  I split a 36 inch douglas fir with the X27 alone and I'm 6' hence my avatar picture.


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## TheLastDeadMouse (Feb 25, 2014)

I know the Fiskars is the most financially logical choice, but its rare that the difference between a the normal product and a hand made heirloom quality version is $100.  I'm buying it as more of a present to myself than because its the logical thing to do.  I'm just wondering about sizes, every other time in my life the size axe I used was whatever axe we had.


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## Bigg_Redd (Feb 25, 2014)

I'd skip the maul.  I get that they're fancy and Swedish or whatever, but a mauls a mauls a maul.


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## osagebow (Feb 26, 2014)

Love the look of the american felling axe, and the large splitting axe over the maul. I have about 30 hours in the ridiculously inefficient tool in my avatar. Wouldn't trade it for the most efficient "logical" one in the world. Go for it, and enjoy.


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## jotul8e2 (Feb 26, 2014)

Of the two components in the energy required to split wood, velocity (head speed) and mass, velocity is the most important.  So you want to be able to whip around whatever maul you use, and not just once but for round after round.  Of course, if you have the upper body strength and stamina, more mass will help.  I am thinking you would probably like an eight pound maul, give or take.  I simply cannot swing an eight pounder fast enough, so I prefer my Stilh 6.6 pound.  I have a couple of grand nephews - both 6'3" high school athletes - who prefer a 12 pound maul.

I have to say I like the looks of Council Tools products, from North Carolina.  Like http://www.counciltool.com/product.asp?pg=product&item=80MA

You only regret buying quality once and that briefly, but you can enjoy guality for a lifetime.


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## tfdchief (Feb 26, 2014)

TheLastDeadMouse said:


> I've decided I'm going to treat myself to a bit of a luxury and buy a Gransfors Bruks splitting axe or maul.  (I understand its not the most cost effective way to split wood, I'm investing a small portion of the money I've saved burning wood on something I'll enjoy).
> 
> Although I have a decent amount of axe experience from my teens, I haven't used one much since then (currently 28).  I'm trying to decide what axe weight / length / type is most appropriate for me.  I understand this is largely user preference, but I'm hoping people can share their experiences as a starting point for me.  6'2", 195 lbs, average fitness level.  The stuff I'll be splitting will probably never be significantly larger than 18" - 20" rounds, perhaps a rare 24".
> 
> ...


Wow, I have been splitting wood for a long time with a variety of tools and I have to say, these are some fine looking tools.  I have had Stolz Monster mauls, generic mauls, fiskars, and the list goes on, but those are some fine looking tools.  I know I am going to get beat up here, but I have always loved a finely made tool, and these certainly look to be good ones!


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## jatoxico (Feb 27, 2014)

tfdchief said:


> Wow, I have been splitting wood for a long time with a variety of tools and I have to say, these are some fine looking tools.  I have had Stolz Monster mauls, generic mauls, fiskars, and the list goes on, but those are some fine looking tools.  I know I am going to get beat up here, but I have always loved a finely made tool, and these certainly look to be good ones!



If you appreciate a well made tool, a visit to their website (Gransfors Bruks) is pretty cool.


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## Ehouse (Feb 27, 2014)

jotul8e2 said:


> Of the two components in the energy required to split wood, velocity (head speed) and mass, velocity is the most important.  So you want to be able to whip around whatever maul you use, and not just once but for round after round.  Of course, if you have the upper body strength and stamina, more mass will help.  I am thinking you would probably like an eight pound maul, give or take.  I simply cannot swing an eight pounder fast enough, so I prefer my Stilh 6.6 pound.  I have a couple of grand nephews - both 6'3" high school athletes - who prefer a 12 pound maul.
> 
> I have to say I like the looks of Council Tools products, from North Carolina.  Like http://www.counciltool.com/product.asp?pg=product&item=80MA
> 
> You only regret buying quality once and that briefly, but you can enjoy guality for a lifetime.



I think the whipping around of a light weight axe/maul style of splitting is dangerous.  I prefer a much more vertical motion using my strength for lifting a heavier tool and dropping it straight down through the wood, bending the knees slightly and bringing the handle level with the head at impact.  Each stroke is much more predictable, and an easy rhythm with no ricochets is achieved.  I also vote for wooden handled tools being pleasant to use and because I like to hang my own handles.


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## Makers Mark (Feb 27, 2014)

Mouse, I have the large splitting ax and the maul and they are great! I use the maul on bigger rounds and ax on smaller. Be careful they are razor sharp and unless you hit ground they will stay that way. I have split 5 ten ft ricks with mine.


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## Ashful (Feb 27, 2014)

I think that metal collar near the head would be a source of constant frustration, for me.  When considering any hand tool refined over hundreds of years of very heavy usage, I'm very skeptical of any recent addition or modification made by modern occasional users, who might not benefit from the wisdom of those who used these tools all day every day in generations past.

Yes, I know this company has been making axes and mauls for 100 years, but the guy who came up with that sheetmetal collar probably wasn't there that entire time.  Anyone old enough to remember when axes were made and used in high volume for forestry work is now retired.


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## Ehouse (Feb 27, 2014)

Joful said:


> I think that metal collar near the head would be a source of constant frustration, for me.  When considering any hand tool refined over hundreds of years of very heavy usage, I'm very skeptical of any recent addition or modification made by modern occasional users, who might not benefit from the wisdom of those who used these tools all day every day in generations past.
> 
> Yes, I know this company has been making axes and mauls for 100 years, but the guy who came up with that sheetmetal collar probably wasn't there that entire time.  Anyone old enough to remember when axes were made and used in high volume for forestry work is now retired.




I'm suspicious of that collar as well.  Harder to affix a new handle and would foster dry rot.


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## jotul8e2 (Feb 27, 2014)

Ehouse said:


> I think the whipping around of a light weight axe/maul style of splitting is dangerous.  I prefer a much more vertical motion using my strength for lifting a heavier tool and dropping it straight down through the wood, bending the knees slightly and bringing the handle level with the head at impact.  Each stroke is much more predictable, and an easy rhythm with no ricochets is achieved.  I also vote for wooden handled tools being pleasant to use and because I like to hang my own handles.



Probably a poor choice of words on my part - I do not use, nor advocate a roundhouse style swing.  Like you, I use a vertical motion, coming directly over the top of my head and straight down into the log.  Nevertheless, my point about impact velocity is still apposite, and if I use a heavier maul I just cannot get enough speed on my swing.


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## razerface (Feb 27, 2014)

Ehouse said:


> I'm suspicious of that collar as well.  Harder to affix a new handle and would foster dry rot.


it is most likely there to try and survive a missed swing or hard wood rub going thru the wood.


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## Ashful (Feb 27, 2014)

razerface said:


> it is most likely there to try and survive a missed swing or hard wood rub going thru the wood.


Understood, but the fix to the missed swing breakage is putting the tool in the hands of someone who knows how to use it.  I could clip the wings off a fly with my favorite 8 lb. maul, without hurting him, if he'd just stay still long enough.


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## BrotherBart (Feb 27, 2014)

Love them collars. Because of:

1. Tiredness
2. Beer
3. Tiredness + beer


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## fossil (Feb 27, 2014)

Joful said:


> ...I could clip the wings off a fly with my favorite 8 lb. maul, without hurting him...


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## tsquini (Feb 27, 2014)

How much chopping are you doing? Swinging a 6lbs maul for a few hours will do you in. Where the splitting ax at half the weight at least you will be able to chop in consecutive days. My suggestion is buy a good splitting ax. When it comes to a maul just get a cheap one.


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## jatoxico (Feb 27, 2014)

Joful said:


> I think that metal collar near the head would be a source of constant frustration, for me.  When considering any hand tool refined over hundreds of years of very heavy usage, I'm very skeptical of any recent addition or modification made by modern occasional users, who might not benefit from the wisdom of those who used these tools all day every day in generations past.
> 
> Yes, I know this company has been making axes and mauls for 100 years, but the guy who came up with that sheetmetal collar probably wasn't there that entire time.  Anyone old enough to remember when axes were made and used in high volume for forestry work is now retired.


I believe axe collars have been used for a very long time. If you don't like it you don't like it but it's not a new addition AFAIK.


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## Makers Mark (Feb 27, 2014)

The metal collars have saved the handles on mine several times. Wood doesn't always split straight and beer equals aim maybe off. Coming from someone who has bought umpteen handles over past 30 yrs.


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## tfdchief (Feb 27, 2014)

Makers Mark said:


> The metal collars have saved the handles on mine several times. Wood doesn't always split straight and beer equals aim maybe off. Coming from someone who has bought umpteen handles over past 30 yrs.


Hey Makers Mark, off topic but my boss is a Makers Mark man!  Sips it straight


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## Makers Mark (Feb 27, 2014)

Good stuff especially on a cold nite in front of a warm fire.


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## smokedragon (Mar 1, 2014)

When I was a kid (12 - 15) my grandpa made us fell trees with double bit axes......I have often thought about doing so again (but that Stihl just doesn't like to sit).

If you want my two cents.  Get the splitting axe.  It is a fine tool.  Mauls work better on stuff that is really stringy or tough, but a nice axe like that will do wonders on straight grained wood.  It is a real beauty.

As for the american vs. scandanavian.....I would personally go scandanavian.  It is lighter and shorter.  If you are trying to fell a tree by hand, that smaller weight is much easier to swing and get good bites into the tree.  The shorter handle is nice if you are near other trees.

Those are really nice tools.  Makes me want to add to my collection of wood cutting/splitting gear.


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## Makers Mark (Mar 1, 2014)

I agree the ax will split most the maul is good for really tough stuff. They make a 31" handle large splitting ax. I have been really looking at those.


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## 1970roadrunner (Mar 2, 2014)

TheLastDeadMouse said:


> I've decided I'm going to treat myself to a bit of a luxury and buy a Gransfors Bruks splitting axe or maul. (I understand its not the most cost effective way to split wood, I'm investing a small portion of the money I've saved burning wood on something I'll enjoy).
> Although I have a decent amount of axe experience from my teens, I haven't used one much since then (currently 28). I'm trying to decide what axe weight / length / type is most appropriate for me. I understand this is largely user preference, but I'm hoping people can share their experiences as a starting point for me. 6'2", 195 lbs, average fitness level. The stuff I'll be splitting will probably never be significantly larger than 18" - 20" rounds, perhaps a rare 24".



I figure its hard to beat the cost effectiveness of splitting by hand, as long as its a chore you enjoy and not dread.  If its something you enjoy doing, a nice maul/axe is money well spent.

I prefer a maul over a splitting axe.  That 5.5lb maul looks like it could get some good results.


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## Maxgussam (Mar 2, 2014)

I have the Gransfors maul and I love it!
It is almost a work of art, made with pride by a craftsman, not some machine in china. 
Using it makes splitting wood even more fun.
Get it and enjoy!


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## razerface (Mar 3, 2014)

> Understood, but the fix to the missed swing breakage is putting the tool in the hands of someone who knows how to use it.


To "know how to use it",, a person must miss a few times.




Joful said:


> I could clip the wings off a fly with my favorite 8 lb. maul, without hurting him .


you don't think that hurts him?  [


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## smokedragon (Mar 3, 2014)

razerface said:


> To "know how to use it",, a person must miss a few times.


A few.......more like a few hundred

When I was a kid we learned to always swing short, because all we had were wood handles......you bust of few of those and you got to do worse work than splitting wood.


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## Ashful (Mar 3, 2014)

razerface said:


> you don't think that hurts him?  [


Exaggeration for effect.  My way of saying the metal collar on the handle shouldn't be necessary.  It doesn't take too many days with a maul to get to a point where you can land each swing right in the crevice from the last.


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## smokedragon (Mar 5, 2014)

Joful said:


> Exaggeration for effect. My way of saying the metal collar on the handle shouldn't be necessary. It doesn't take too many days with a maul to get to a point where you can land each swing right in the crevice from the last.



The metal collar is absolutely necessary.......I have had wood that I hit and it split at a funny angle (causing the head to sink in, but a solid chunk of wood remains at the handle just below the head).  I still have the receipt for my Ames True Temper 8lb maul.  I replaced it last summer (because it has a lifetime warranty).  I will replace it again when this handle breaks.......

Not always user error that causes a handle to break.


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## Makers Mark (Mar 5, 2014)

Smoke I agree. In my experience all wood doesn't split exactly straight. I guess it would in a perfect world but not mine. Glad collar is on mine.


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## Ashful (Mar 5, 2014)

Hey, different strokes for different folks, but I've not had that sort of bad luck, I guess.  My wood maul handles last many, many years, and split literally dozens of cords before requiring replacement, and even then it's almost always from some bone-headed move of my own (like using my maul as a pry bar or accidentally backing over it with the tractor) for which that sheetmetal collar isn't going to be the savior.

I'll admit to an occasional over-shot of sledge on wedge, to where I've had to replace two sledge handles over the last 10 years.  But I've never run into a situation like that with a maul.  I split about 11 cords in 2012, and 14 cords in 2013, and more than half of each was with my two mauls.


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## BrotherBart (Mar 5, 2014)

I blame the beer. I have overshot so many times and busted so many maul handles I couldn't count'em. Probably has paid for the hydo splitter over the last twenty years. 

Still had to pay for the beer.


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## gerry100 (Mar 6, 2014)

jotul8e2 said:


> Probably a poor choice of words on my part - I do not use, nor advocate a roundhouse style swing.  Like you, I use a vertical motion, coming directly over the top of my head and straight down into the log.  Nevertheless, my point about impact velocity is still apposite, and if I use a heavier maul I just cannot get enough speed on my swing.



Agree.

Also the vertical motion is much more repeatable and therefore accurate. Accuracy saves you a lot of swings.


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## gerry100 (Mar 6, 2014)

BrotherBart said:


> I blame the beer. I have overshot so many times and busted so many maul handles I couldn't count'em. Probably has paid for the hydo splitter over the last twenty years.
> 
> Still had to pay for the beer.



When you're splitting it's not " beer" -  the correct technical term is  " aiming fluid"


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## Ashful (Mar 6, 2014)

gerry100 said:


> When you're splitting it's not " beer" -  the correct technical term is  " aiming fluid"


I always called it splitter lubricant.  I'm the splitter.


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## DTrain (Mar 20, 2014)

I am 6'3" 205 and use a 8lb maul with the yellow (unbreakable?) handle.  Works great.  I'm careful about how I swing so I can swing longer.  I put my right hand under the head and lift it straight up like a torch.  Apply the left hand at the bottom, swing and squat at the same time.  Lot's o' power.  Use an 8lb, just don't use up all your energy getting it back up in the air in a hurry.  Here's the damage I did with mine inside of an hour and and fifteen.  You can see it just to the left.


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## _CY_ (Mar 27, 2014)

Gransfors Bruks makes some of the finest modern axes available. but don't waste your $$$ on a blunt instrument like a maul, even with Grandsfor's name on it. get the finest Gransfors Bruks axe in your favorite style .. then get this style all steel maul for about $40 ..


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## KodiakII (Mar 29, 2014)

I have the undeniable luxury of owning some of the finest products of Scandanavia:  Huskies, Granfors splitting maul, and my Fiskars X27.  When doing average size wood I use the X27 for my workhorse, but when the going gets tough I get the Granfors out (I call it Old Billy Baroo!).


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## ArsenalDon (Mar 30, 2014)

Spud Monkey said:


> Just get a Fiskars X27


+1


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## skfire (Mar 30, 2014)

_CY_ said:


> Gransfors Bruks makes some of the finest modern axes available. but don't waste your $$$ on a blunt instrument like a maul, even with Grandsfor's name on it. get the finest Gransfors Bruks axe in your favorite style .. then get this style all steel maul for about $40 ..


plus one on the steel maul
Have one about same as this one, only wider head, and solid red, only had to retape the handle 3-4 times in 8 years. I split 6 cords a year with it, drop straight down to knee high impact..add a little oooomph and all good. Also splitting around knots with it, but don't attempt the knots. No problems with curlies and twists.
Worst part is the constant in between bending over to re set, so I use an old tractor tire and stack the logs in it, then walk around and turkey shoot. Do 4 logs at a fill then have a sip, start again, if u miss the tire takes the shot and no flying splits.


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## Firewood Bandit (Apr 1, 2014)

jatoxico said:


> If you appreciate a well made tool, a visit to their website (Gransfors Bruks) is pretty cool.


 

I agree, they are really nice.  However I just bought a top handle saw climbing saw for less $$$.


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## CTYank (Oct 21, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> I'd skip the maul.  I get that they're fancy and Swedish or whatever, but *a mauls a mauls a maul.*



Sorry, but not even close there.
Some are pure instruments of torture: HF and most if not all big-box-store mauls. So blunt at the edge, they'd have difficulty cutting a hot-dog. Mostly of crap steel. Cheap.
Some will split wood very well: Wetterlings, Hultafors (Husqy), Ochsenkopf (Stihl), Gransfors, Mueller. 5.5-6.6 lb. Made of various high-quality heat-treated steel. $60-185.
Some are made of very good materials: Council Tools 6 lb. goes for $25. A little bit of work on the head, and it's right up there with the best.

If you've ever used any variety of these, you'd realize that your assertion is purely bogus. Besides the last NY region GTG, at the next one we'll have comparison tests of wood-splitting tools. Included a fiskars, even. Difference was obvious- fiskars just didn't have it going, compared to 2.5 kg Wetterlings or 3 kg Mueller, in pieces you could call "wood", 16" long. Fiskars worked for daisying or splitting kindling.


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## Bigg_Redd (Oct 21, 2014)

CTYank said:


> If you've ever used any variety of these, you'd realize that your assertion is purely bogus.



ok


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## fossil (Oct 21, 2014)

CTYank said:


> If you've ever used any variety of these, you'd realize that your assertion is purely bogus.



It took you _8 months_ to come up with that response?  Hmmm


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## BrotherBart (Oct 21, 2014)

CTYank said:


> Sorry, but not even close there.
> Some are pure instruments of torture: HF and most if not all big-box-store mauls. So blunt at the edge, they'd have difficulty cutting a hot-dog. Mostly of crap steel. Cheap.
> Some will split wood very well: Wetterlings, Hultafors (Husqy), Ochsenkopf (Stihl), Gransfors, Mueller. 5.5-6.6 lb. Made of various high-quality heat-treated steel. $60-185.
> Some are made of very good materials: Council Tools 6 lb. goes for $25. A little bit of work on the head, and it's right up there with the best.
> ...



A crock is just that. A crock.

Closing it.,


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