# Thermopex install questions



## Ulybagger (Sep 3, 2008)

I'm currently installing a central boiler OWB. I'm using the thermopex piping as my supply lines to the house and the pool.  A couple of questions about installation.
First, how the hell do you bend this stuff?  It is stiff!!  Should I cover it with sand?  Can you drive over the area where the piping is after install or will it crush?
And a question on istalling the connections and heat exchanger inside the house, how close does this need to be to the existing boiler?

First time poster

Thanks


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## Epdscoops (Sep 4, 2008)

The thermoplex is tough but you can bend it with some heavy elbow grease, From what I was told the sand is not needed if you bough the thermoplex, just dig a trench and bury it ( I think 18 inches is what they recomend)  As for driving over it I would not  recomend taking it under your driveway other than that I think your ok ( unless you plan on moving heavy equipment over that area alot)


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## kabbott (Sep 4, 2008)

Sand or gravel is not a bad idea, especially if you have a lot of rock. If you don't use sand just make sure no rocks land on the pipe
when back filling.

If your going under a drive you could put it in a sleeve of sdr35 or sch40 or even steel.
Keep the pipe in the center of the sleeve on each end so if it shifts the sleeve wont cut the pipe.


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## babalugatz (Sep 4, 2008)

Ulybagger said:
			
		

> I'm currently installing a central boiler OWB. I'm using the thermopex piping as my supply lines to the house and the pool.  A couple of questions about installation.
> First, how the hell do you bend this stuff?  It is stiff!!  Should I cover it with sand?  Can you drive over the area where the piping is after install or will it crush?
> And a question on istalling the connections and heat exchanger inside the house, how close does this need to be to the existing boiler?
> 
> ...





the closer you can get the underground supply/return to the indoor boiler, the better.
installing insulated piping overhead to run across a basement is a drag (more time/mat'l)


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## Vinced (Sep 4, 2008)

Hey,
   I just back-filled my Thermopex last week. I buried it 4ft deep and covered it with sand. Where it makes the bend up out of the ground I just back-filled alittle bend the pipe then back-filled somemore. It takes some time but can be done. Where my Thermopex came out of the ground where it will enter my shed, I chained it to my tractor and back-filled around it to get it to come out where I wanted it. 
Good luck, Vince


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## JMann (Sep 4, 2008)

I'm going out to the local dealer in my area tomorrow am to have a look at the pipe first hand.  The person that I spoke to said that they have elbow connectors that you can use for your 90 - 45 degree bends.  I've also read that you simply bury the pipe 18" deep.  I'm going to backfill with sand then soil mat, finishing with soil just to be on the safe side.  

Once you get the pipe into the house, wouldn't you use regular O2 heat pex, copper or black iron to get to the existing boiler?  Insulated pex is expensive!


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## babalugatz (Sep 5, 2008)

JMann said:
			
		

> I'm going out to the local dealer in my area tomorrow am to have a look at the pipe first hand.  The person that I spoke to said that they have elbow connectors that you can use for your 90 - 45 degree bends.  I've also read that you simply bury the pipe 18" deep.  I'm going to backfill with sand then soil mat, finishing with soil just to be on the safe side.
> 
> Once you get the pipe into the house, wouldn't you use regular O2 heat pex, copper or black iron to get to the existing boiler?  Insulated pex is expensive!




sorry, i wasn't clear.
of course use reg. hepex...insulated with armorflex or equiv. (black pre-slit foam insul), is what i meant....copper/ esp . black iron,  is  foolish


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## JMann (Sep 5, 2008)

Just got back from the supplier for thermopex in my area.   I was incorrect, there are no 90 degree elbows in the product line.  I'm going to do as Vince is doing (backfill a little, bend a little...repeat).


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## Vinced (Sep 5, 2008)

It sounds like alot of fooling around, but it goes quite well. If they made 90 degree elbows I wouldn't suggest cutting and splicing the Thermopex underground. That would kind of defeat the purpose of using Thermopex. I did notice that 4" pvc fittings are a nice tight fit on the od of the Thermopex. Where my Thermopex enters my house is outside the exterior wall. I had to do this because I have a walk-out basement and no way was I going to cut threw my 6ft deep footing to get it to come into the basement. So I just made it come up right next to the exterior wall and I'll cut a 4" hole for a pvc 90 to enter my basement. Then I'll spray foam the inside of the pvc 90. I hope this make sense.
Good luck, Vince


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## henfruit (Sep 6, 2008)

i dug my trench a bit deeper where it made the bend to come up to the surface. this way it was able to flex at a nice soft sweep to make a 90 at the surface. i cored a hole in the foundation for it to enter the basment at 4 feet deep which had it land at 12 inches above the basement floor. also ran 4 inch pvc schd 40 to carry electrical. when i back filled i did a lot by hand to get a good base over the pex before putting back all the rocks  that we grow here in new hampshire. hope this helps?


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## Ulybagger (Sep 25, 2008)

Ya. I dug a little deeper to come up into the boiler.  I already had a concrete pad behind the garage so I had to take a slice out of the pad for the pipe to come in so when the boiler was placed everything is covered when closed up.  I backfilled as I bent the pipe.   I tried to just have the pipe held where I needed it but the little lady was getting tossed all over the place.  It was rather funny to watch.  She held on though.  I will suggest this to anyone who reads this post.  After you back fill and the pipe is coming through the ground strip off the excess cover and insulation BEFORE you put the boiler in place.  It will make your life alot easier.  I'ts kind of a groan to strip. I left about 10 inches of unstripped pipe out of the ground. LEARN FROM MY MISTAKE!!


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## JMann (Sep 25, 2008)

I had pretty much the same install.  In the garage I went about 3-4 ft down in the trench so that I could get through the sidewall and up through the concrete and still remain close to the wall.  I used a 5" concrete bit to get through the side and cut an 18" square hole in the concrete floor to get up and out.  After working it through, I backfilled with soil and used 2a modified stone for the last 8", tamping with a digging iron.  I put a 8" piece of PVC around the pipe and drilled a few holes in the cut areas of the concrete for re-bar so that I can patch the 18" concrete hole in the future and still get at the Thermopex if needed (hopefully not).


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## henfruit (Sep 26, 2008)

let us know when you get the seton up and running.


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