# The Stihl 362 starts very hard.



## Roundgunner (Sep 30, 2014)

I took it to the dealer who commented on it being like new, I told him it stays like that because it wont start.
He said I flood it. I have tried and tried but most of the time I just go get the 251. I need the 25" bar for some big red oak.

I tried starting fluid today and still couldn't get it. Thinking Husky.

Suggestions?


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## Rossco (Sep 30, 2014)

Have you atleast pulled the plug out and taken a look?


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## TreePointer (Sep 30, 2014)

Starting fluid is not recommend for 2-cycle engines.

Did the dealer get it started?

Are you having trouble getting it started when cold?  Trouble restarting when warm?  Both?

What gasoline octane do you use?  What 2-cycle oil do you use?  What mix ratio?  

How old is your fuel?  Do you shake your fuel can before pouring?


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## fabsroman (Sep 30, 2014)

I've had both of my Stihl saws for almost 4 years now and no issues with starting. Knock on wood.

When you have the choke on, can you hear a short little "blip" while trying to start it? As soon as you hear that blip you need to move the lever into the run position and pull the cord with the lever in the run position.

If I bought a saw brand new and it would not start for me, I would be livid. If you did buy the saw brand new and have hardly used it, how much are you asking for it? lol Just kidding, but seriously. Have  my heart set on a MS441 to fall between my 261 and 660.


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## TreePointer (Sep 30, 2014)

fabsroman said:


> When you have the choke on, can you hear a short little "blip" while trying to start it? As soon as you hear that blip you need to move the lever into the run position and pull the cord with the lever in the run position....



Good point.  When I first got my 361, it was sometimes difficult to notice it "blip" or "pop" when the engine first fires on full choke.  I learned not to pull more than 3 times on choke or it will flood.  These days, I flip the lever to fast idle after the third pull, even if I don't hear it fire.  No more flooding.


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## Bigg_Redd (Sep 30, 2014)

The 362 might start hard, but at least it weighs more and costs more than the saw that it replaced


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## Clyde S. Dale (Sep 30, 2014)

Rossco said:


> Have you atleast pulled the plug out and taken a look?


 
+1. Go through the motions of starting it and then pull the plug if it won't start for you. Is it wet? If not, then no fuel is getting to the cylinder. If it is wet it could be a bad plug. That's where I would start at least - that's assuming your fuel is good. 

Let me get this straight - you took it to your dealer to have them take a look and all they did was comment that it looks brand new? Maybe it's time for a new dealer. 

Keep us posted.


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## Danno77 (Sep 30, 2014)

is the decomp working properly? +1 on starting method mentioned (pull 'til burp, etc)


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## Jon1270 (Sep 30, 2014)

Is this one of the newer M-tronic versions, or a conventional carburetor?


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## Danno77 (Sep 30, 2014)

362 should be the m-tronic one, so no adjusting of the carb... If it's flooding it's because of spark plug. Not saying it couldn't be something else awry, but he's not getting a pop from starting fluid, so i'd look there first.

Although, now that you bring up the M-tronic system, there won't even be a choke on this, right? So what people are saying for pull until the pop won't work? Someone with a 362 will have to school me. I only know what I know by poking around at them on the shelves at the dealership.


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## Roundgunner (Sep 30, 2014)

I got sick of fighting it so bought a new Baush(sp) plug. No go. Took it to saw shop, someone other than owner told me chain was very dull, I said I wouldn't know it won't start. They wouldn't even look at it unless I let them sharpen it for $7. Then I asked how long they need to look at it. That's when they said it looks like new so it should start (duh) it will be done in a week.

Got it back $50 later, another new plug, 3 new links in chain, sharp chain and the same instructions you all have said on starting procedure. It was flooded.

It started once.

I have pulled the plug overnight, blown compressed air in it, the gas is premium fresh and works in the 251.

If I flood it how is the best way to get it clear again?


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## MI wood guy (Sep 30, 2014)

Sure you don't have a dry rotted fuel line sucking air?
Look between tank & carb


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## Jon1270 (Sep 30, 2014)

Roundgunner said:


> If I flood it how is the best way to get it clear again?



Move it to high idle (off the choke setting), set the saw on the ground, set the chain brake, hold the throttle wide open, and pull repeatedly.


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## Roundgunner (Sep 30, 2014)

Thanks Jon I will try it that way next.


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## Danno77 (Sep 30, 2014)

Are you sure you even have a choke setting? Stuff I'm reading says one setting and it's "run"


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## Roundgunner (Sep 30, 2014)

It has a choke. I'm sure it is operator error but I can't hear it try to start, ever. I hate it.


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## Jon1270 (Sep 30, 2014)

Danno77 said:


> 362 should be the m-tronic one,





Danno77 said:


> Are you sure you even have a choke setting? Stuff I'm reading says one setting and it's "run"




There are both conventional and M-tronic versions of the 362.


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## Jags (Sep 30, 2014)

Just for giggles...once you know the saw is dry (like sitting for a few days) put the saw in the choke position.  Pull 3 times (and no more than three times) on choke.  Move lever to fast run - pull till it starts.  Don't be surprised if this method requires 5-7 pulls on fast/run, but I would be interested if it will start this way.

You are not using the trigger at this point in starting, are you?


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## Roundgunner (Sep 30, 2014)

Jags said:


> Just for giggles...once you know the saw is dry (like sitting for a few days) put the saw in the choke position.  Pull 3 times (and no more than three times) on choke.  Move lever to fast run - pull till it starts.  Don't be surprised if this method requires 5-7 pulls on fast/run, but I would be interested if it will start this way.
> 
> You are not using the trigger at this point in starting, are you?



I do trigger while pushing control lever all the way down. Pull trying to get a false start, bring it up one notch, I think that unchokes it but keeps throttle on full. I used to pull until I was so mad I wanted to throw it but I was to beat to do it. Now I just take the plug out and get the 251 and it start right up. I'm going to give it another shot tomorrow, I have a bunch of big oak in the driveway and the wife is getting her car back tomorrow after having it painted. It will be going in the garage or I will be staying in the garage.


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## Jags (Oct 1, 2014)

Roundgunner said:


> I do trigger while pushing control lever all the way down. Pull trying to get a false start, bring it up one notch, I think that unchokes it but keeps throttle on full.



Yes - this is correct.  Try my above suggestion on a cold saw.  See where that gets you.


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## Roundgunner (Oct 1, 2014)

So I gave it my all again today. Ended up using the 251 again.
I need 24 inch lengths so I noodled 18 deep before cutting them off to make them lighter for splitting. It would be a lot faster and easier if I had the 25" bar on the 362.


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## TreePointer (Oct 2, 2014)

Did you try Jags' suggestion?  

Did you say that your dealer was able to get your 362 started?

If yes, propose to the dealer that he keep the saw for three days or so and start it from cold every day.  If the starts are successful, ask the dealer how he did it, and then you do it that way.


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## Danno77 (Oct 2, 2014)

What do you want for this saw? I was looking at a 390, but I think I'd rather have a 362...


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## Enzo's Dad (Oct 2, 2014)

Thats too much work...... In CT we have serious problems with ethanol. My Husqvarna trimmer has had to have the fuel lines fixed twice. When my chainsaws act up i mix startron in with the gas, and then run a tankful of the bottled 50/1 mix from husqvarna. Empty your gas and start with the fuel.


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## salecker (Oct 2, 2014)

HI Roundgunner
 Check to make sure your choke is working properly.
 I bought a 026 from a old lady that used it sparingly at her cabin.She couldn't get it to start anymore,took it to the Stihl dealer and was told it wasn;t worth fixing.She bought a box store special Husky to replace it and answered my wanted chainsaws ad.I gave her $5 more than she was asking for it.I  kept it in my shop and would try to start it once in a while,some times it would start and other times it wouldn't.So when i got serious about using it i found the choke wasn't working properly.A little adjustment on the choke assembly,a muff mod and its been a great saw for the last 3 yrs,i leave it on my quad and never fails to start even at -30.
 Thomas


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## Dell (Oct 2, 2014)

My 362 starts and runs great.  Provided I keep fresh fuel in it.  don't try to use fuel from last winter.  Dump your fuel tank out - into a can and burn it on an outdoor fire.   I use 93 octane and the newer silver Stihl mix.  I use startech stabilizer in fuel due the dang ethanol.  OP never said what type of oil he was running.  I mix 1 gal at a time to keep it fresh.  Push decompression button down.  Should always get it to "pop" with control/choke lever all the way down, on no more than 7 pulls.  Push lever up one notch and should fire within 1-3 pulls.

If I ever have a flooded condition, which I have on my 250, you take off the muffler (2 bolts and a gasket)  and it will fire right up on choke (and run loudly).  Put it back on and problem solved.  I learned this from my chainsaw dealer and have done it a few times with success.  Your shop charged you $50 to do the same.

By the way that is some gnarly oak Roundgunner, you need the 362 for that!!


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## TreePointer (Oct 2, 2014)

OP has demonstrated in this discussion that he isn't very interested in getting his 362 running.  If he were, he would have carefully read the replies and answered ALL of the questions posed.

Every question asked is important as the answers help to rule out possible issues.  It's how diagnoses are made.


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## Dell (Oct 2, 2014)

This is true.  Well I gave out some advice most dealers would not like!  I hope it helps those that read the threads.  But if he wants to try a husky and not change the fuel...

Nice JD by the way treepointer!


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## Roundgunner (Oct 2, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> OP has demonstrated in this discussion that he isn't very interested in getting his 362 running.  If he were, he would have carefully read the replies and answered ALL of the questions posed.
> 
> Every question asked is important as the answers help to rule out possible issues.  It's how diagnoses are made.



You know that's not very fair. I don't have time to have 2000+ post. Does that mean I'm unworthy? Please press ignore. Just because I didn't type out a response to every suggestion believe it or not I have tried many of the suggestions some before some after.

I run a business and do not have a whole lot of free internet time.


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## Roundgunner (Oct 2, 2014)

Dell said:


> My 362 starts and runs great.  Provided I keep fresh fuel in it.  don't try to use fuel from last winter.  Dump your fuel tank out - into a can and burn it on an outdoor fire.   I use 93 octane and the newer silver Stihl mix.  I use startech stabilizer in fuel due the dang ethanol.  OP never said what type of oil he was running.  I mix 1 gal at a time to keep it fresh.  Push decompression button down.  Should always get it to "pop" with control/choke lever all the way down, on no more than 7 pulls.  Push lever up one notch and should fire within 1-3 pulls.
> 
> If I ever have a flooded condition, which I have on my 250, you take off the muffler (2 bolts and a gasket)  and it will fire right up on choke (and run loudly).  Put it back on and problem solved.  I learned this from my chainsaw dealer and have done it a few times with success.  Your shop charged you $50 to do the same.
> 
> By the way that is some gnarly oak Roundgunner, you need the 362 for that!!



The fuel is fresh + dealer dumped and refilled too. I think maybe I don't have a strong enough pull in me. I'm going to take it back to dealer soon and leave it for 3 days as suggested.


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## Roundgunner (Oct 2, 2014)

I do use the silver oil from Stihl as it made the warrantee 2 years instead of only 1.

My son in law has pulled his arm off too.


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## Roundgunner (Oct 2, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> Starting fluid is not recommend for 2-cycle engines.
> 
> Did the dealer get it started?  *yes*
> 
> ...


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## Roundgunner (Oct 2, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> Good point.  When I first got my 361, it was sometimes difficult to notice it "blip" or "pop" when the engine first fires on full choke.  I learned not to pull more than 3 times on choke or it will flood.  These days, I flip the lever to fast idle after the third pull, even if I don't hear it fire.  No more flooding.



Tried that too.


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## Roundgunner (Oct 2, 2014)

Clyde S. Dale said:


> +1. Go through the motions of starting it and then pull the plug if it won't start for you. Is it wet? If not, then no fuel is getting to the cylinder. If it is wet it could be a bad plug. That's where I would start at least - that's assuming your fuel is good.
> 
> Let me get this straight - you took it to your dealer to have them take a look and all they did was comment that it looks brand new? Maybe it's time for a new dealer.
> 
> Keep us posted.



Yes plug is wet.

Dealer replaced a brand new plug


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## Roundgunner (Oct 2, 2014)

Danno77 said:


> is the decomp working properly? +1 on starting method mentioned (pull 'til burp, etc)



Decomp works, dealer said full compression is better. I have tried both ways.


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## TreePointer (Oct 2, 2014)

Roundgunner said:


> You know that's not very fair. I don't have time to have 2000+ post. Does that mean I'm unworthy? Please press ignore. Just because I didn't type out a response to every suggestion believe it or not I have tried many of the suggestions some before some after.
> 
> I run a business and do not have a whole lot of free internet time.



I saw continued posting without answering some of what I saw as key questions.  There is a form of trolling that follows that pattern.  I misinterpreted.  Sorry about that.

Some more options:

It is possible that the carb wasn't tuned properly.  A different Stihl dealer may give it a proper tuning and under warranty if you explain your history with it.

Regarding the pull starting technique, I do know that folks get used to pull starting one way, and it may not work with some chainsaws.  For instance, when I start my lawnmowers, it's a big long pull that's often of moderate speed.  I've been around a couple chainsaws that don't respond to those long pulls, but do start very consistently with very rapid or sudden shorter pulls.


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## Roundgunner (Oct 2, 2014)

I will try a very fast pull tomorrow night. Plug has been out all day. I do have another dealer about the same distance in the other direction. I think I don't pull strong enough. The 251 starts with a smooth easy pull. I have had trouble with this right from the start. Right handed with pain in right elbow, probably the pull.


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## Bigg_Redd (Oct 3, 2014)

Complain to Stihl directly.  Maybe they will buy it back.


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## fabsroman (Oct 3, 2014)

Roundgunner said:


> I will try a very fast pull tomorrow night. Plug has been out all day. I do have another dealer about the same distance in the other direction. I think I don't pull strong enough. The 251 starts with a smooth easy pull. I have had trouble with this right from the start. Right handed with pain in right elbow, probably the pull.



Yeah, there is one heck of a difference between starting my 261 and 660. Pull speed is the same (i.e., fast), but the strength needed to pull the 660 is a lot more than the 261, and forget pulling the 660 at that speed without using the decomp. I never use the decomp on the 261, but would blow my elbow out if I did not use it on the 660. Try hard, quick pulls on the 362 with the decomp on and then off. Then, if you have no luck sell the saw, preferably to me. lol If you were around the corner, I would actually try to lend you a hand.

Somewhat weird that the dealer can get it to start but you cannot.


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## Roundgunner (Oct 3, 2014)

I just got back from dealer. He couldn't get it to start either. He kept it. Looks like intermittent spark. He is going to replace coil pack under warrantee.

I thought about asking if I get my $50 back from last week but I think I will let that slide.


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## Danno77 (Oct 3, 2014)

Coil pack could definitely be a culprit.


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## Jags (Oct 3, 2014)

Good to know that you are getting the needed attention.


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## Pennsyltucky Chris (Oct 7, 2014)

Jags said:


> Just for giggles...once you know the saw is dry (like sitting for a few days) put the saw in the choke position.  Pull 3 times (and no more than three times) on choke.  Move lever to fast run - pull till it starts.  Don't be surprised if this method requires 5-7 pulls on fast/run, but I would be interested if it will start this way.
> 
> You are not using the trigger at this point in starting, are you?



I forgo that the first step. I leave the choke on run, squeeze the trigger, and pull like 4 times. It starts.


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## Roundgunner (Oct 9, 2014)

I got the 362 back today. Employee says there you go, no charge, covered by warrantee. I thanked him and asked if I could get a little off on a chain because I got charged $46 when I brought it in 2 weeks ago. The owner comes out of the back and gets involved telling me they did not do anything that didn’t need to be done. I told them I did not think it fair that I had to pay a shop charge. They got pretty loud and I purposely did not.

$7.00 sharpen chain

$??  Replace 3 links

$4.00 spark plug

The rest was shop charge and tax. It wouldn’t be a problem but they didn’t fix the problem. When I brought it back they do a factory covered warrantee repair. I feel like they could have given me a bit off on a chain because the shop charge should have been the warrantee work. Am I wrong in feeling that I was taken?

I as considering a leaf blower but not now. I think I will be going to the other dealer for anything else I need too.

The saw is running and starts well now by the way.


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## BrotherBart (Oct 9, 2014)

BB walks away chuckling about ten years of reading threads about always buying a saw from dealers...


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## TreePointer (Oct 10, 2014)

When they said you had to have your chain sharpened for $7 for them to even look at the saw, that was your cue to say "no thanks" and walk away.   They could have looked up your saw's SN to see that it's still under warranty and proceed from there.  Find another Stihl dealer for service.

That practice was dishonest.  Call Stihl USA.  They will want to know about it.  More than one dealer has lost their license to sell Stihl products over such practices.


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## Roundgunner (Oct 10, 2014)

I'm writing them a letter right now.


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## fabsroman (Oct 10, 2014)

Roundgunner said:


> I'm writing them a letter right now.



Yep, I would have been pissed off with the dealer, both for the money it charged me and the time I lost having to come back a second time. I would have been livid and I doubt I would have been quiet if the manager/owner decided to raise his voice at me.

Good on you for writing that letter.


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## Bigg_Redd (Oct 10, 2014)

BrotherBart said:


> BB walks away chuckling about ten years of reading threads about always buying a saw from dealers...



As do I every time some one wants to know what chain goes with which saw after they've ordered the wrong one.

Just sayin'


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## Rossco (Oct 10, 2014)

Next time, just take the power head into the dealer. 

Glad the saw is ripping again.


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## lindnova (Oct 10, 2014)

So is it running good now?


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## cityboy172 (Oct 10, 2014)

fabsroman said:


> Yeah, there is one heck of a difference between starting my 261 and 660. Pull speed is the same (i.e., fast), but the strength needed to pull the 660 is a lot more than the 261, and forget pulling the 660 at that speed without using the decomp. I never use the decomp on the 261, but would blow my elbow out if I did not use it on the 660. Try hard, quick pulls on the 362 with the decomp on and then off. Then, if you have no luck sell the saw, preferably to me. lol If you were around the corner, I would actually try to lend you a hand.
> 
> Somewhat weird that the dealer can get it to start but you cannot.




I just redid the top end on my ms460.   It will definitely remind you now if you forget the decomp.
My 250 on the other hand, you can definitely get a good fast pull on that.


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## Jon1270 (Oct 10, 2014)

cityboy172 said:


> I just redid the top end on my ms460. It will definitely remind you now if you forget the decomp.



Heh.  I'm currently assembling an 044, and I set the squish to .022" with a new piston and rings.  It doesn't even have a decomp.  I'm a little afraid.


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## cityboy172 (Oct 10, 2014)

Jon1270 said:


> Heh.  I'm currently assembling an 044, and I set the squish to .022" with a new piston and rings.  It doesn't even have a decomp.  I'm a little afraid.


Should be ok.  It's not impossible.  That compression stroke though....   Probably doesn't help that I set the squish around .018.


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## Jon1270 (Oct 10, 2014)

I have an 026 with similarly high compression.  A quick, snappy, committed pull starts it pretty easily, but it doesn't go so well if I'm the least bit hesitant or halfhearted.


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## Roundgunner (Oct 10, 2014)

Yes used it for a couple hours. started fine every time, better than when new.


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## cityboy172 (Oct 10, 2014)

That's awesome. As someone that works on things for a living, Intermittent problems suck. I've lost some good customers with things like this. Not saying your dealers good or bad, just saying.


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## Roundgunner (Oct 10, 2014)

Yeah I get the not easy to diagnose part I just don't like the paying the shop fee. It would be different if it truly was operator error.


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