# Difficulty getting my wood stove above 200*F



## drz400 (Jan 8, 2015)

I have a Garrison Mode #1 wood stove I installed in my home recently. I also installed a new double wall chimney pipe. The pipe is connected to the back of the stove and vented directly out of the house to a "T" then up 25'. I have been running the stove a few days now and am not able to reach a temperature more than 200*F. I do not have a damper on the flue. I'm looking for more heat output. Any thoughts on why I'm running so cold? Do i need to have a damper to slow the exhaust from exiting so fast? or is there something I'm missing? 
Any advise would be appreciated! Currently 5*F outside, need the heat!


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## pen (Jan 8, 2015)

How well seasoned is your wood?  Are you burning rounds or splits?  For many hardwoods, it takes at least a year cut, split and stacked for it to live up to it's potential.  For some species like Oak, it may take 2 years to get it ready for the stove.

Where and how are you measuring the temperature?

Sorry to hear of the problem, hope you can get things up to temp soon.

pen


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## drz400 (Jan 9, 2015)

pen said:


> How well seasoned is your wood?  Are you burning rounds or splits?  For many hardwoods, it takes at least a year cut, split and stacked for it to live up to it's potential.  For some species like Oak, it may take 2 years to get it ready for the stove.
> 
> Where and how are you measuring the temperature?
> 
> ...





Thanks for your thoughts. Here are the answers to your questions.
The wood is seasoned at least a year, using a mix of hard and soft woods and almost all of it are splits.
Measuring the temp on the stove pipe, note it should be farther away from the stove but I'm limited by the wall, out of curiosity I even checked the stove top with the same result.
I have been working on the draft to see if that helps but i still only read about 200*. I believe I should be somewhere between 3-400!?


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## begreen (Jan 9, 2015)

A pipe damper wouldn't hurt on this stove, but as a test move the thermometer at least temporarily to the stove top and see what it reads there. Let us know.


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## coaly (Jan 10, 2015)

Does the chimney have an opening into it somewhere? Allowing air in?
That's how a stove not getting air would act.


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## claydogg84 (Jan 10, 2015)

You're getting 200 degrees with a magnetic thermometer on double wall pipe? I agree with begreen, put the thermometer on the stovetop and go from there.


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## coaly (Jan 10, 2015)

Post #3 - 200* stove pipe and stove top. Maybe it's time to set the oven to 350 and make sure it goes over 200??


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## ryjen (Jan 12, 2015)

Off subject, but I used to own a DRZ400 and should have never sold it.


Back on subject, definitely want to see what the stove top temp is. I'm thinking it's a draft issue. I can put green wood in my Buck and it still reaches 400-500 easy. (sometimes a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do)


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## drz400 (Jan 13, 2015)

On that side note i didn't but i think i would if i can get this stove to work..... well maybe not. i guess i would have to see my electric bill first! 

I have access to a infrared thermometer and it never reached more than 212* no the stove top! 
I also installed a damper in the pipe this weekend and no change. I would agree it sounds like a draft issue but i'm baffled by how?! The Pipe is new and the the stove was resealed. I can hear the air passing through the dampers but if i close the door it seems to snuff the fire. 
This is so frustrating, a lot of money in pipe to have 200*. Not sure what I am missing but it has to be simple its a steel box with three moving parts!


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## coaly (Jan 13, 2015)

8 inch outlet on stove back?
Single or double wall 8 inch inside?
What exactly is your new double wall chimney pipe? 8 inch all fuel chimney?


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## drz400 (Jan 13, 2015)

Yes 8" off the back of the stove, single wall but only a short section approximately 9 " or so then into the double wall (12" long then into the "T") out of "T" up 25' with a 15* off set 8' from the top.
Pipe manufacture is Selkirk.


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