# 2005 Chevy Silverado Ignition



## Mr A (Apr 2, 2012)

I need some help, please. So I went and got that Stickler log splitter that spins arouind on the drive wheel. I need to install a kill switch to the ignition.  I'm not sure where to find the distributor, or if it even has one. It has a coil for each cylinder. Need to find a single wire, that when cut, will kill the engine. The kill switch is simple a lead wire soldered to the distributor wire, and a switch connector that pulls out. Is there a single wire to do this, where is it?


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## MasterMech (Apr 3, 2012)

Chevy V8's havn't had a dizzy since 1999.  I wouldn't reccomend playing with the wiring on a newer truck unless you really know what you're doing.  Computer control systems can easily be thrown out of wack by one bad connection.

In my honest opinion, the type of splitter you bought is dangerous.  You'd be doing yourself a favor returning it.

FWIW: Killing power to the fuel pump should have the same effect on that truck as the ignition and less chance of interfering with something sensitive.


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## Mr A (Apr 3, 2012)

Life itself is a terminal illness. I can see the fear many have of this ominous looking thing, "The Stickler", it even sounds a bit scary. I am used to working around heavy, dangerous machinery. A few smart safety precautions make this a pretty snazzy tool in my opinion. The reccomended operating procedure is to take a comfortable seat on a round in front of it. A partner will roll logs to you, a little push into the screw and and it is effortlessly split.You don't want to be getting getting worked up, trying bust out the work fast and stumbling around in front of this thing for sure.  I dont plan to use this on what an ax can handle, but for the many large, knotted rounds my maul bounces off of. How many folks have missing fingers from conventional hydraulic splitters, costing at least $1000 more?  Any way, the engine needs to stop immediately, for safety reasons, which is why the safety instructions call for cutting the spark.  I'm not sure cutting the fuel pump will be immediate, as it is a big engine. A lot can go wrong with any tool. I also plan on taking this to a friends property, where there is a Kubota tractor to attach it to the PTO, and get busy on 38 acres of eucalyptus. I do concrete work. Before I started, I never noticed concrete-It is everywhere. Now, I burn wood and notice the same thing.


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## smoke show (Apr 3, 2012)




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## Reggie Dunlap (Apr 3, 2012)

Open the hood and pop the lid on the fuse box. Tie one end of a string to the fuel pump fuse and the other end to your wrist. When you start to wrapped up by that death trap of a splitter just yank hard...


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## semipro (Apr 3, 2012)

I believe there is an "IGN" fuse in one of the fuse boxes.
I'd try pulling it while the engine is running to see if it kills it. If it does you can buy a "fuse tap" (something like the link below) that will allow you wire in your kill switch. This will work well as you can put a fuse back in when you're not using the splitter.

http://www.amazon.com/Tapa-Circuit-Dual-Fuse-Holder/dp/B004ZAVA78

Edit: based on the schematics Smokeshow provided maybe its the "INJ 1" fuse instead.


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## smoke show (Apr 3, 2012)

semipro said:


> Edit: based on the schematics Smokeshow provided maybe its the "INJ 1" fuse instead.


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## backpack09 (Apr 3, 2012)

Cutting the fuel pump will not imediately kill the engine.


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## Gary_602z (Apr 3, 2012)

backpack09 said:


> Cutting the fuel pump will not imediately kill the engine.


 
Killing the ignition will not stop the wheel from spinning either.

Gary


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## Pallet Pete (Apr 4, 2012)

Could you use a hood kill switch of a starter? I believe you can buy them cheap from a starter shop then you could put a toggle switch on the end of it.

+20000 to master mech dangerious

Pete


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## Mr A (Apr 5, 2012)

OK, with the help of a friendly neighbor, we located the ignition wire, it is the pink one under the middle of the steering column that when cut will kill the engine. I attached the kill switch, secured one end of pull switch, ran a twine out the extended cab window. I then put the rear end up on jack stands, both wheels off the ground, I have a limited slip differential. Choked the front wheels good. I then attached "THE STICKLER", DUHN, DUHN DUHN(SCARY MUSIC!lol) It took all of 20 minutes jack up, and get it on. I had a half cord each of big seasoned, knotted cedar rounds, and big knotted oak chunks cut from a huge 4' round. I worked on my level concrete driveway, placing the rounds at an angle to the ground, and the point of screw about a third down from the top, the concrete acts as a brace. Most of the rounds were wide enough to just push it into the screw where you think a good split will occur.Splitting was as fast as the 20-ton I usually rent. On the 20-ton it would probably have stalled on this wood, if not in the right spot. Stickler stalled also, running on idle. Engaged the limited slip, and kept going, sometimes with a little rev of the engine. I started out in low 1. I found the higher rpm's of low2 worked better, the faster it goes the less it stalls. I just had to get the screw started, and the screw threads just sucks the wood into it. It made awesome cracking noises, and loud pops, but never sent a piece of wood flying off. Now, if you are absent minded and are going to forget about the spinning screw you are working with, use broken jack stands etc., I can not recommend this tool. For those that understand and respect the power of the tools they work with and keep an eye on personal safety , and that of others, this is great low cost option for a splitter.  Now, I need to rig up some sort of way to remotely increase engine rpm from my work station in front of the stickler. You only need to be in front of it to get it started, it does the rest on it's own. It would be nice not to have jump in the cab when it stalls to rev 'er up and power through. Also, when engine is cut, the hub stops spinning due to the gears in the differential.


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## smoke show (Apr 5, 2012)

Mr A said:


> I need to rig up some sort of way to remotely increase engine rpm from my work station in front of the stickler.


 Get your twine back out and get creative.


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## MasterMech (Apr 6, 2012)

smoke show said:


> Get your twine back out and get creative.


 

Not sure if those have throttle cables or are drive-by-wire like my '05 Canyon is.

Too bad you couldn't set the cruise control. (Won't set under 30MPH?)

I still think this is rediculously dangerous.  I know my tools better than most (as many of us here on hearth.com do) and still wear chaps, gloves, hearing protection, safety (sun)glasses and steel toes when processing wood.  I could run the splitter/saws naked and come away just fine but that just doesn't seem smart now does it?


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## Mr A (Apr 6, 2012)

I had no problems, never had to kill the engine. It runs in idle,l and I had a few pieces too short and they spun around. I just kicked another piece of wood under it, it caught, and split.Having the rear end of the truck jacked up, I can see something going wrong there on a slope, or soft ground. I used it all day on big chain sawed chunks of oak trunk from a 4 foot round. Very knotted and curled, I doubt any rented splitter would do the job. I wonder how many cavemen were naysayers when the first one brought in some fire. I was intimidated myself when first starting to use it, but it quickly wore off as the job got done. On smaller pieces, I found I could hold it myself without a counter brace. Stay away from the pointy end, don't wear a scarf, tuck in your shirt, and make sure your jack stands are well secured, a big round should serve well for a jack stand on soft ground.


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## firefighterjake (Apr 9, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Not sure if those have throttle cables or are drive-by-wire like my '05 Canyon is.
> 
> Too bad you couldn't set the cruise control. (Won't set under 30MPH?)
> 
> I still think this is rediculously dangerous. I know my tools better than most (as many of us here on hearth.com do) and still wear chaps, gloves, hearing protection, safety (sun)glasses and steel toes when processing wood. *I could run the splitter/saws naked and come away just fine* but that just doesn't seem smart now does it?


 
Running the splitter and saw naked and coming away just fine . . . guess it depends on who sees you. I suspect many folks seeing you naked while working the wood might call the cops who might try to blue paper you . . .


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## MasterMech (Apr 10, 2012)

firefighterjake said:


> Running the splitter and saw naked and coming away just fine . . . guess it depends on who sees you. I suspect many folks seeing you naked while working the wood might call the cops who might try to blue paper you . . .


 

If they're trying to figure out what's wrong with me it's gonna be a long list....


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