# My Angry Beaver : Front End loader Build



## Freakingstang

I thought I would post up what i've been up too.  i bought my first house last fall and still getting the property in order.  I don't travel as much as I used to, but I did spend the first 6 months of this year out of town.  I had a ton of tractor work to do on my land to resolve drainage issues...  Traded a junk mustang roller for this running tractor.  I Did some wheelin' and dealin' over the last couple weeks and ended up with this loader setup off of an old economy tractor.  I believe it was home made at some point in time... It was a complete setup with hydraulics, hyd tank, pump, cylinders, spool valves and hoses. The bucket is 42" wide and seems like a perfect match for the little beaver.

















even got a set of hayforks with it. I'll eventually make a grapple for this so I can use it to move brush and trees around.





instead of trying to modify what was there....I just started over....
I did resuse the sleeved bushings off of the old loader frame....  Here are my sophisticated set of Freakin' plans...lol




here is the start of the mockup....I used some 2x4's to get the propper angles...(no pics, sorry) easier and cheaper trial and error with free 2x4's...




For the upright posts, I used 2 1/2" box tube, 1/4" wall.  I used 3/8 plate and drilled 7/8" holes in the pivot plates and welded them to the tubes. I'll eventually box in the backside and add some more reinforcement to them.
For the bottom of the upright tube, I used a 4"L x 3"W 1/2" plate. I drilled a 1" hole in the plate and then welded a nut on the topside of the plate. The nut will sit inside the box tube upright. I did this incase I want to ever remove the setup.


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## Freakingstang

now it was time to build the boom arms. I had two 6 foot sections of 2x3" 1/4" wall tubing just laying around for a special project.... I cut the bushings off the old loader boom and squared everything up and welded them in place...they have bronze inserts that can be changed if needed. They use a 7/8" pin.


















I started with a 32" piece of 1 1/2" x 3" tubbing as the cross beam for the uprights. This is what the uprights and rear sub frame will hook into. This tubing is 3/16" wall. I then took a piece of 1" box tube, 1/4" wall and slid it inside. I did this to maximize support and minimize clearance issues as the cross beam will sit between the trans tunnel and the driveshaft. I did this to utilize ground clearance. I made a wide "V" notch in the center of the tube for clearance on the drain plug of the bellhousing. It will be fully reinforced and boxed back in before it is all said and done








then, after much measuring and spacing, I decided to make the uprights removable. I cut some 1" ID tube and notched the inner support tube to act as a sleeve for the 1" bolt that will come up through the bottom into the upright posts.


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## Freakingstang

with the uprights and boom arms almost finished, it was time to start putting pieces in place.




for mockup I'm using the one single bucket dump cylinder that I have. I cant afford to buy a matched set right now (new home owner) so I'll probably just use what I have for now until I can afford to put a twin dump cylinder setup on it, but will make it so I can easily add the twin cylinders down the road


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## Freakingstang

this was from the initial mockup before much welding had been done. Notice the clearance issues on the right side where the air cleaner is... I ended up cutting the mounting ears off the bucket and moving the arms out from 24" inside to 28"...I need to fab up a need boom crossmember and bucket cylinder mount.




I started on the rear subframe today. It will tie the cossbrace (under the uprights) into the rear. I'm using some 4x4" 1/2" plates that will be bolted to the rear end. From there 2x2"1/4" wall box tube will tie in on each side ofcross brace.I forgot my phone when I was at the shop today, so you'll have to wait for pictures. I hope to get 99% of the fabrication done tomorrow on my day off so I can start working on the hydraulics.

For the hydraulics, I have an Electric PTO on the front of the tractor. I'm thinking about using that with the aux oil pump that I got with the loader setup for faster cylinder times than the tractor hydraulics. Only issue I can forsee with that is the location ofthe hydraulic resevoir. I'm contemplating making a resevoir built into the boom as a cross brace out of 6"x3" 1/8" wall tubing......

Completed the rear subframe, built a Hyd tank, built mounts for the trans to crossmember and built more support brackets to help tie in the subframe to the chassis.












Started my Hyd tank with a piece of 1/8" wall 3x6" tubing x20" long. If I did My calculations right it should be close to 1 1/4 gallons with the knockout for the pto shaft.












Welded in 1/2" NPT bungs for the feed and return. And then a 1" bung for the fill/breather


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## Freakingstang

Did some measuring. With the 18" stroke cylinders should be in the 6'3" to 6'6" lift to the bottom of the bucket when level (depending on mounting tab location). should be plenty for my needs!




I still have to make some upright supports. I would like to tie the uprights into the front and tie the cross beam into the engine frame plates. I think I'm going to plate and weld the engine "frame" plates with some 1/4".

Worked on the lift cylinder mounts today. I made the upper plate long enough to use my current 3"x12" cylinders. Once I can afford the 18" stroke cylinders, I will trim off the extra plate and make it look a little more appealing than just a slab of steel. Lol. Plates have not been welded or even shaped yet. Just got rough measurements and drilled one set of holes.
I may cut the boom xmember off and lower it, just depends on how much OT I get the next week or two as I will use the current twin 3x12" lift cylinders for the bucket curl.








Everything on the loader setup has been made removable, only exception are these brackets welded to the trans tunnel. Those will remain there forever...


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## Freakingstang

I went out of town for about two month to work the super bowl... I ordered new lift cylinders while I was gone, and Got back into the groove this week. I ended cutting the lift/boom arms apart and changing the angle to push the bucket out a little farther. I ordered the new cylinders, and was able to fab up my new boom arm mount/reinforcements. This was very time consuming as the motor on my ancient drill press died, so with a 1/2" milwaukee hand drill....


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## Freakingstang

I also made some modifications to a piece of 2" angle iron that was 1/2" thick. I notched it for the driveshaft and the bellhousing nuts. This will get welded to the main cross beam for additional support. I also found a piece of 1 1/2" angle iron (1/4") that will slide between the two uprights and underneath the battery/fuel tank. I'm going to drill and tap the uprights and then weld some small tabs on the upper cross brace, again so everything is 100% removable. Once I get that done, I'll use some 1 1/4" box tubing from the uprights forward to the front frame crossover.


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## Freakingstang

Was able to get some work done the last couple days. I rebuilt the bucket.  I added new pivot mounts and a new curl/dump mount. I didn't have thR tractor at work so I haven't welded in the cross tube yet. I ground down all the rust, rewelded most of the bucket welds and added a new 1/4"x3" cutting edge. I even made a tooth for the one missing on the tooth bar. Then it was wire wheel time, followed by POR-15 metal ready. (spray on bare and rusted steel and turns white. It gives POR-15 a zinc phosphorous coating to adhere to). I used POR 15 chassis black then misted on some true blue while it was still tacky. Another coat followed by some clear and she'll be good forever!
All i have left to do on the fab Is install the dump cylinder crossmember, then it will be ready for hydraulics!


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## Freakingstang

Well, I got all the fab work done this week.  I shortened the lift cylinders (removed extra material from the shaft when it was fully retracted), added the boom crossmember, made up a removable front hoop, and welded in the center tie support, as well as the rear subframe.  All that is left is running some hydraulic lines and hoses and ordering a joystick valve. I don't know if Im going to tap intothe tractor hydraulics or mount my aux pump setup yet.
this is the rear subframe arms. they mount to the rear, right where the three point pivot shaft is. you can't tell from the pics, but the 1 1/2" cross tube bolts on, and then the front of the arms bolt into the main crossmember








This is the front hoop.  It ties the uprights into the front frame crossmember.  I still have to drill two holes to boltor pin the removable hoop section into the upright (reciever)


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## Freakingstang




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## Freakingstang

I got all the hydraulics plumbed, other than tying in the adapter because I need to get three longer bolts. I mounted the valve to a plate that bolts on the upright. Everything is tucked out of the way from heat, any moving parts, and high vibration areas. I used about 2 1/2' of Parker hose wrap on the hoses going along the boom arms.
I originally laid out the hoses to tee them at the center of the boom cross member, but I didn't like the way it looked or the way the lift cylinder hoses laid. I ended up running down to a napa truck store and had a 1' hose made up with a jic 90 on the valve end for clearance issues. From there it's tee'd for both the boom up and boom down. I made sure the short hose came into the center of the tee, and same length hoses so both cylinders (hopefully) lift equally. All the other hoses are 3/8 NPT 4000psi hoses from Surpluscenter.com. I used swivels on both ends for ease of installation.  The bucket curl/dump circuit is just two hoses because I only have one cylinder for now. The feed to the joystick valve follows the factory routing along the floorboard up to the Hyd tap on the side of the case. The pressurized return follows My fabricated crossmember then run along the rear subframe and comes up in a hole at the rear of the driver side floorboard.
I flushed the system and filled with fresh Hyd fluid and am ready to put her in some dirt!  I just need to install some rubber coated hose clamps and some wire ties to finish up the hose installation.






The muffler cover is getting coated... Plenty of clearance from heat..














Clearance on the hood is tight, but no rubbing anywhere. Hoses are succeptable to chaffing, so you should pay attention to any areas where a hose is contacting a metal surface.












And while I was at it, I painted some other things...


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## Freakingstang

After months of fabrication, blood, sweat, tears, trials and tribulations...she made her first stroke on her own.
The first Hyd block adapter had some issues..  When i drilled and tapped the 3/8 NPT threads, they were too close to the bolt holes.  Once the cylinder bottomed out...she leaked like a sieve. I thought it was the orings at first, so I got fatter O-rings.. Negative....
Took the last cylinder I had and chopped it up again.. Learned my lesson and used a 1/4 NPT this time....







I got a real end mill and "machined" it for brass washers instead of Orings.


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## Freakingstang

That's a Clarke 8K forklift for size comparison...














Got all the supports and subframe bolted in and buttoned up. She is ready to work!
Picked up my 6' landscape rake. Not sure what it weighs, but she didnt grunt even at idle. Cylinder speed isn't that fastest, but IT WORKS!!


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## pen

Dang, someone paid attention in metal shop.

Looks great.

pen


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## Freakingstang

Got some action pics of it today.... I only found one problem.... the bucket isn't big enough......  Seems the seal on the bucket cylinder is leaking.... thats ok, I need to either get a longer stroke cylinder, or get two  and change the geometry a little....whats the benifit of 1vs2 dump cylinders on a smaller machine with a slow pump?


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## Freakingstang

And here is some size comparison pictures.  Most people don't realize how little this Satoh Beaver really is, and how capable of a machine it is. Just a little 2 cyl 15 hp diesel and 4 wheel drive.... I like it, even if it is considered a garden tractor by most people....

















I think it looks 10 times better than the way it did when I got it... Kinda resembles and airport tug doesn't it?  lol


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## Freakingstang

Well, I started on my forks today. I went to one of the local scrap yards that sells scrap. Most steel is 25 cents a pound.... The tubing and angle cost me 23 bucks. The 39" forks were 129 bucks off of craigslistnn.
About two hours, cutting, grinding and fitting. Then about an hour welding. I have not made the mounts yet, as I want to swing by the John Deere dealer and get some measurements on their quick attach system.





























I got to try out my rock/brush/hay rake today. I got this with the old loader setup that I cut apart and re-engineered to fit my tractor. I believe it was a hay fork. I added some 1/4" angle to the top of the 1" tines. I'm going to weld in some supports on the bottom of the tines and and a grapple for moving brush and rocks. I also added a quick attach similar to john deeres QA


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## Freakingstang

The Angry Beaver saves starving children in africa! Not really, but I really put her to work this weekend!  I'm quite impressed with MY BUILD!'
got the quick attach welded on the fork cage so I could use them today.
















how about a thousand plus pound all 1/4" steel work bench, loaded with tons of stuff?  three sets of SBF cast iron heads on the middle shelf








one more parts shelf...why unload? lol





Before my big lift, I thought I would try it out on a parts Kubota B6000 I had sitting out back... a good 1200lbs...




she suceeded!


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## Freakingstang

so I moved on to my big project for the day... MY 21' Heavy duty trailer with my 10K chippewa 2 post lift.  I've had this sitting in the back garage for about 6 months now... haven't had time to rearrange the garage to install it with all the time I've spent working out of town.
















stood the lift up using a 5/8" certified lifting chain from work...









Came home from work with no power and a couple trees down.... I got out my little honda 2K and let the sump pumps run before my bsement flooded.  Each pump (2) ran for at least 10-12 minutes. 
So, after that was square, i plugged in the fridge and headed outside to check out the damage.  This particular one was my pos neighbors apple that had grown thru the barb'd wire fence.  I've been trying to get him to clean up his fence line since I moved in.  I "found" 8-10 of my property by cleaning up his over grown mess. I checked Ohio laws and it states you must maintain the fence to 6 foot away.....This is the same neighbor that called the county when I was re-grading my property. Told the county I was "going to flood him out.  Had my buddy Turbo helping me too.  She's a real sweat heart. Got her as a stray right after I moved in.  She's part Pitt, boxer, and I'm thinking beagle only because she howls from time to time and is only 47-48lbs.  Nicest, best mannered dog you'd ever meet.  She's my buddy.  Haven't had her on the tractor yet, but I can't walk outside without her being right beside me.  Anyways.....
Got out the beaver.  I've moved some top soil since I built the front end loader this winter.  I just built a set of forks for it. Haven't really got a chance to try it out and work it hard.   The weak link seems to be the 1/4" flatbar that was a homemade tooth bar... It worked to shred/tear the roots but the soft steel didn't fare to well...  Everything seems top notch, had the filled and weighted tires off the ground with a woods 59" mower a couple times.. No hose leaks, nothing broken, all in all it was a good day! 


















The badass beaver even helped get some of the roots out





While I was at it, I dug, pulled, ripped a three foot tall cherry stump out. It got cut down last fall from a lightning strike


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## Freakingstang

The Angry Beaver makes for some awesome firewood handling skills... I hate handling wood 2 and three times... I can load up one of these crates and with 500lbs of counterweight, it is just enough to safely move it around the property. It also makes an easy cleanup after dropping a tree!


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## Flatbedford

Nice toys you've got there. Also nice that you can use the shop at work. I see your company's stuff here in NYC often.


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## Freakingstang

Flatbedford said:


> Nice toys you've got there. Also nice that you can use the shop at work. I see your company's stuff here in NYC often.


 
We just had a guy killed on a jobsite at a hospital in the bronx a few weeks ago... He got pinned between a piece of equipment and a building when the chain broke on the crane. Bad news... our local shop out there in in Linden, NJ just across the river.  I'vespent alot of time out there!

anyhooters, all of it was done after work and days off (weekends). The bosses were cool about it, but I couldn't leave it there and it got old dragging it home and back eveytime I wanted to work on it. I didn't have my shop at homesetup then. Its still getting there, but at least I can work on stuff now!


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## MasterMech

Jealous... 

Wife says a welder would be a silly purchase. "You don't need that."


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## Dune

Good work especially with regards to persistence until completion.

Looks like a danged handy machine.


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## Dune

MasterMech said:


> Jealous...
> 
> Wife says a welder would be a silly purchase. "You don't need that."


 
Have her call me.


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## ironpony

very nice job, now just remember it is only as strong as its weakest link, which is probably the tractor itself. I would find out what the manufacturer says it should lift, just because you can lift it does not mean you should lift it. hate to see you break the little guy, I have a Kubota of the same size only 3 cyl. great little tractor but too strong for its own good.


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## BrianK

Awesome thread, great project. Brings back good memories. We had a 25hp rear drive Satoh tractor growing up. It always started, always ran, never let us down. It was amazing the things we accomplished with that tractor. My dad gave it to my nephew a couple years ago because after almost 40 years of use and abuse it finally needed a rebuild. Wish I had it now.


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## Freakingstang

Dune said:


> Good work especially with regards to persistence until completion.
> 
> Looks like a danged handy machine.


 
Thanks.  It is... I wish it was a hydro, had a belly mower, quick detach loader, and had power steering like all the new little sub compacts have... but most of the kubota BX sized machines have limited lifting capbilties.  I thought the hydraulics were slow on mine until I got to use a newer Kubota BX and was kinda disappointed because it was a 15K$ machine! I have about 2200 bucks in mine!


its funny how i aquired it... being a broke new homeowner I couldn't afford a "tractor".  i had a rotted out mustang 5.0 chassis that I used to race.  no motor or trans and tried selling it for about a year for 1K.  I  had a buddy that wanted it, but didn't have any cash.  got to talking about needing a small little tractor to do some grading work in the spring.  Turns out his brothers wifes uncles sister's cousin gave them this tractor years ago and had no use for it.  I went and looked at it and about fell over, super small 4x4 and a diesel??? went home, got the trailer and loaded the car up. put the jumper cables onthe tractor while unloading the car, put some fresh diesel in it and bled the lines.  She fired up on about the 4th revolution.  drove it on the trailer.  Apparently they ran it out of fuel year ago and didn't know that you had to bleed the lines on a diesel so it sat.  I think he was a bit pissed to say the least.  I had 80% of the steel.  I have about 950-1K in all the cylinders, lines and fittings.  worst part about the whole thing was making the hydraulic block adapter.  It took a couple of times to get that right without a mill.  I did have a ton of fab time in it,cutting stuff apart and redoing anlges and what not.  Well worth it in my opinion.  I could afford the time to put into it vs the money to buy a comparable machine.


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## MasterMech

Dune said:


> Have her call me.


 
Believe me Dune, when it comes to my tools, I will have my way.  Just takes longer to do it by myself.


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## Eatonpcat

Way cool build...Great fab job!


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## Jags

Out-Freaking-Standing.
I love this kinda stuff.  Those tractors were little, but mighty.  They didn't know how to quit - even if it was in their best interests.
The builds of the implements is fantastic and I really like the idea of the quick attach and its design.  I was questioning the first position for your tilt cylinder, but I see that you corrected it.  Stick with the single tilt unless you wanna give up a bunch of speed.  Great job all the way around.

(dang - this looks like something I would have done.)


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## semipro

Great post.  I'd like to see more of this kind of thing here.  Its inspiring.


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## Jags

MasterMech said:


> Jealous...
> 
> Wife says a welder would be a silly purchase. "You don't need that."


 
A shop without a welder is like a home without a refrigerator.


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## Eatonpcat

Jags said:


> A shop without a welder is like a home without a refrigerator.


 

I don't know... But I've been living without the welder and I think my fat A$$ would be pretty sad without the fridge!!


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## Jags

Eatonpcat said:


> But I've been living without the welder...


Clarification: you have been existing....you ain't living until the shop has a welder.


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## Freakingstang

Jags said:


> Out-Freaking-Standing.
> I love this kinda stuff. Those tractors were little, but mighty. They didn't know how to quit - even if it was in their best interests.
> The builds of the implements is fantastic and I really like the idea of the quick attach and its design. I was questioning the first position for your tilt cylinder, but I see that you corrected it. Stick with the single tilt unless you wanna give up a bunch of speed. Great job all the way around.
> 
> (dang - this looks like something I would have done.)


 
I was using the existing cylinders that i had when i put it together... the first tilt cylinder took a crap after two bucket fulls of rock.. So I took the lift cylinder off of my kubota front blade and was using that. the location of the cylinder wasn't ideal, but it was a comprimise because of the short stroke... played around with the right geometry many times.  i blew that cylinder out about 15 second after this picture of the 1K + lb work bench...







.

i've been using it for the last 3-4 months with a chain holding the tilt into posistion.  I just aquired a set of bucket cylinders off of a new massey sub compact.  A local dealer had some warrenty issues with some seals...if one was bad, they changed both under warrenty.  I got two good cylinders for 50 bucks.... I just haven't had time to modify my setup yet.


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## Freakingstang

here is some more fab work. most of this was government time when we had nothing to do at work....

I used to be a fabricator, and then i worked in a factory that built forestry equipment, so I hoarded as much "scrap" as I could. I have about 150-160 bucks in the forks, and another 250 bucks in the woods finish mower. I made my own suitcase weights from a bucnh of 1" thick square plates we had at the shop. they look like something from frankensteins garage, but other than a little time I don't have a penny in them. I made the rear reciever/weight hanger all out of scrap. I can afford my free labor, but have a hard time paying for something I can make.
here's the rear weights and hitch/weight hanger. the cast purchased wieghts at 42lbs and cost about 50-60 bucks.  Mine weigh 56-58lbs each and cost me about an hours time each. (cutting and welding all the scrap).


















I picked this bucket up last night for a whopping 40 bucks. The original Blackhawk loader had a 50" bucket. Mine was only 41". This bucket came off of an old little skid steer and measures 53" wide. It is in good shape except the bottom is rotted from sitting so long. A piece of sheet 53"x12" will make it like new. It weighs just Over 200lbs, but once I remove all the quick attach stuff it should be closer to 150ish. I'm going to remove the welded on teeth and make up a removable tooth bar so I can use the bucket for many tasks, and probably use three of the teeth for my front hoe project.










I traded a 12 pack of coors light for a sheet of 10ga


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## Freakingstang

yes, I said front Hoe.....

Got some ideas from surfing the net. I have to install a bunch of drain pipe and other uses around the ranch.  I don't have a "need" for a full blown backhoe. this should work better than a shovel.... I will remove the front bucket from my front end loader and install this via a quick connect/quick attach like my forks and bucket.  I have another singel spool valve that will get mounted to operate this,and the grapple for my hay forks.
I had most of the material laying around.  I cut out some 1/4 for the bucket with a plasma cutter that I had stockpiled. the bucket measures about 10" wide.  I used a 5 gallon bucket for the contour.






































Its not done. I still have to make another pivot point for the cylinder to bucket linkage.  have to drill some more holes and then fab up a mounting plate my my quick attach front end and the cylinder mount.  just been slowly plugging away at it when I have free time


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## Freakingstang

and yes, this is a stout little tractor... just like a full size, high and low 3 speed gear box (3 speed for Hi and 3 for Low). in low this thing will pull a house. This was the whole reason I got the tractor to begin with to re-grade my property:

This was my front yard after weeks of no rain and 75-80 degree temps this spring. just after driving over it a couple of times...
basically I had a swamp in my front yard and back yard, ground tapered towards house... so I dug out the mushy spots and brought it to higher ground and let it dry out.
I bought this 48" box blade for 150 bucks from a dealer. Cleaned it all up and repainted it with POR15 then misted on some equipment yellow spray bomb before it was dry..























So I tore it up... scooped out all the muck and took it to higher ground to dry out....


























strapped on this 'ratchet rake' (meant to be strapped on a front bucket for sappling removal, finish grading, etc.












after a couple weeks...I had grass....













four inches of rain yesterday.... other than a few bald spots where I need to reseed, no water or swampy issues..


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## Freakingstang

back yard.... I ended up taking about 3 to 3 1/2 feet out of the back cornerwhere the fence and the garage meet. I dug out the muck, I spread it out beside the garage to dry out. Then after a few days drying, i dug some more creating a taper to the back corner. The property slopes to the left, so I"m going to run drain pipe down the width of my property and end it at the opposite corner to the low point of the property ditchline.


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## Jags

Outstanding.


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## Stegman

You had me at "Angry beaver."


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## Freakingstang

Sorry for all the pics to those users still on dialup.  I didn't know that still existed.  I just copied and pasted all of this from my build thread on tractorbynet


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## firefighterjake

Freakingstang said:


> Sorry for all the pics to those users still on dialup. I didn't know that still existed. I just copied and pasted all of this from my build thread on tractorbynet


 
If you went to the thumbnail option that would help . . .


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## Jags

Freakingstang said:


> Sorry for all the pics to those users still on dialup. I didn't know that still existed. I just copied and pasted all of this from my build thread on tractorbynet


I am a member over there too, just not a frequent flyer.
I just heard Craigs server gasp for air.


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## Freakingstang

It would have taken 3 hours to upload all those pics to another server... lol

I'm building a 5 foot landplane right now as well.  sorry no pictures of that...


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## Eatonpcat

My wife had an Angry Beaver once...Not a good time in my life!


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## semipro

Nice box blade. 
I've used the split (4-way) bucket on a backhoe before to in the same manner as a box bladed for grading. 
When I finally got a tractor with a front end loader it led me to wonder if I'd be better off investing in a box blade or a split front bucket.  The split bucket would be oh so nice for moving brush and other stuff around.


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## ScotO

MasterMech said:


> Jealous...
> 
> Wife says a welder would be a silly purchase. "You don't need that."


Mine used to say that, but I bought a used MIG many moons ago, rebuilt it, and I now couldn't live without it....

Now, the time has come to break the news to her that I absolutely NEED a TIG machine (already have a Miller in my sights).....
Wait til she finds out it costs over 4 grand


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## MasterMech

Jags said:


> A shop without a welder is like a home without a refrigerator.


 
Neighbors Millermatic 140 has taken up residence under my recycled ping pong table workbench.  Rent free of course 

But as we have discussed before, as useful as the 140 is, I need a bit more.

Have fridge in the shop too.


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## OhioBurner©

Freakingstang said:


> And here is some size comparison pictures. Most people don't realize how little this Satoh Beaver really is, and how capable of a machine it is. Just a little 2 cyl 15 hp diesel and 4 wheel drive.... I like it, even if it is considered a garden tractor by most people....


 
Awesome work man. I've never heard of that tractor before and I suspected it was pretty small but I was thinking something along 9N size but that pic really puts it into perspective! Just a little bigger than a regular GT. Thats awesome. I've wanted a loader on one of my Cub Cadet GT's, but I don't have any experience in hydraulics or big enough welder or torch! Having 4wd is a huge advantage. That thing is fantastic.

Your not too far from my inlaws... how much you want for one of them there loaders?

And even my DSL was bogging down on this thread! But thats ok by me, It was worth it!


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## Freakingstang

I'm building one for my dads cub 3186 this winter. Lighter duty based on the tractor. I could build you one for about 1500 parts and labor. The pictures still make it look bigger than it is. It is just a garden tractor on steroids. Full on full size tractor down scaled. Left/right brakes, diff lock, split high/low trans, three point, 3 speed pto, Etc. The only downside I've found is the pto is a fine spline and spins backwards from conventional tractors/implements. They made them from 1976-83ish. Mitsubishi took over Satoh in 1980 and switched them to Clockwise pto for the states. Mitsubishi quit selling tractors under their own name in the late 80's, although they are still partners in many of the current sub compact tractor comoanies.  

This tractor and the Kubota B6000 are the only counterclockwise tractors that were imported To the US. These satohs were the furst sub conpact in the states and were here a year or so before kubota. Some grey market sub compacts have CCW pto's but they are grey markets, never intended for us distribution or sales. I have the original documentation with mine. It was bought new in 1978 in Garretsville Ohio at a dealer that no longer exsists.


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## MasterMech

Freakingstang said:


> I'm building one for my dads cub 3186 this winter. Lighter duty based on the tractor. I could build you one for about 1500 parts and labor. The pictures still make it look bigger than it is. It is just a garden tractor on steroids. Full on full size tractor down scaled. Left/right brakes, diff lock, split high/low trans, three point, 3 speed pto, Etc. The only downside I've found is the pto is a fine spline and spins backwards from conventional tractors/implements. They made them from 1976-83ish. Mitsubishi took over Satoh in 1980 and switched them to Clockwise pto for the states. Mitsubishi quit selling tractors under their own name in the late 80's, although they are still partners in many of the current sub compact tractor comoanies.
> 
> This tractor and the Kubota B6000 are the only counterclockwise tractors that were imported To the US. These satohs were the furst sub conpact in the states and were here a year or so before kubota. Some grey market sub compacts have CCW pto's but they are grey markets, never intended for us distribution or sales. I have the original documentation with mine. It was bought new in 1978 in Garretsville Ohio at a dealer that no longer exsists.


 
So a quick question, is there some sort of mechanical adaptor to make your tractor compatible with our PTO implements?


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## Freakingstang

MasterMech said:


> So a quick question, is there some sort of mechanical adaptor to make your tractor compatible with our PTO implements?


 

Short answer...yes.  long answer no.  The woods mower i have is from a CCW kubota B6000.  I bought the tractor for 500 bucks as it had a bad trans.  motor ran awesome.  kept the mower, front dozer blade, and wheel weights and sold the tractor for 600. that beat up orange one that the little Beave picked up in the one picture.

I did not know this when i traded a parts car for it.  I just assumed all tractors spun the same way... well the mower i got with mine was a regular CW pto, that someone flipped the blades on... i couldn't keep the blades on, or tight.  tried double nuts, locktite, etc.  searched the net and found out....

Anywho, there were two companies that made a PTO reverser for them, both are out of business today.  The kubota had a 22 spline shaft and the Satoh had a 16 spline, so the yokes and adapters won't even interchange.  I have found a couple of them gearboxes, but they are going for north of 800-1200 bucks...The kubota pto reversers are more common, but still rare. No one parts with them.  i have not bought one, but am attempting to make one out of combine chain and gears to be able to run my brush hog and my fathers post holedigger.  only think holding me up is the solid mount idler shaft stubs... can't keep the chain tight enough and there isn't room for another idler or slack adjuster.  I'll eventually get it, if not, well I've been wanting a kubota BXor similar sized machine...so I made trade both of my tractors in on a newer one down the road. maybe something withpower steering... non ps with a loader sucks... can't imagine having wider turf tires up front...


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## MasterMech

Freakingstang said:


> Short answer...yes. long answer no. The woods mower i have is from a CCW kubota B6000. I bought the tractor for 500 bucks as it had a bad trans. motor ran awesome. kept the mower, front dozer blade, and wheel weights and sold the tractor for 600. that beat up orange one that the little Beave picked up in the one picture.
> 
> I did not know this when i traded a parts car for it. I just assumed all tractors spun the same way... well the mower i got with mine was a regular CW pto, that someone flipped the blades on... i couldn't keep the blades on, or tight. tried double nuts, locktite, etc. searched the net and found out....
> 
> Anywho, there were two companies that made a PTO reverser for them, both are out of business today. The kubota had a 22 spline shaft and the Satoh had a 16 spline, so the yokes and adapters won't even interchange. I have found a couple of them gearboxes, but they are going for north of 800-1200 bucks...The kubota pto reversers are more common, but still rare. No one parts with them. i have not bought one, but am attempting to make one out of combine chain and gears to be able to run my brush hog and my fathers post holedigger. only think holding me up is the solid mount idler shaft stubs... can't keep the chain tight enough and there isn't room for another idler or slack adjuster. I'll eventually get it, if not, well I've been wanting a kubota BXor similar sized machine...so I made trade both of my tractors in on a newer one down the road. maybe something withpower steering... non ps with a loader sucks... can't imagine having wider turf tires up front...


Vertical Mill and a rotary table would be all you need to hog out a gearbox housing from a block of aluminum. 

The hard part would be making the stub shafts and gear hubs with the splines.


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## Freakingstang

yeah, If i had a mill, i'd be deadly... i was trying to fabricate something out of all off the shelf parts... maybe I'll just sell a big saw and buy one someday...I have too many irons in the fire now.


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## Eatonpcat

Freakingstang said:


> yeah, If i had a mill, i'd be deadly... i was trying to fabricate something out of all off the shelf parts... maybe I'll just sell a big saw and buy one someday...I have too many irons in the fire now.


 
You seem to have more irons in the fire than my local dry cleaner!!  Awesome posts by the way!


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## OhioBurner©

Freakingstang said:


> I'm building one for my dads cub 3186 this winter. Lighter duty based on the tractor. I could build you one for about 1500 parts and labor. The pictures still make it look bigger than it is. It is just a garden tractor on steroids. Full on full size tractor down scaled. Left/right brakes, diff lock, split high/low trans, three point, 3 speed pto, Etc. The only downside I've found is the pto is a fine spline and spins backwards from conventional tractors/implements. They made them from 1976-83ish. Mitsubishi took over Satoh in 1980 and switched them to Clockwise pto for the states. Mitsubishi quit selling tractors under their own name in the late 80's, although they are still partners in many of the current sub compact tractor comoanies.
> 
> This tractor and the Kubota B6000 are the only counterclockwise tractors that were imported To the US. These satohs were the furst sub conpact in the states and were here a year or so before kubota. Some grey market sub compacts have CCW pto's but they are grey markets, never intended for us distribution or sales. I have the original documentation with mine. It was bought new in 1978 in Garretsville Ohio at a dealer that no longer exsists.


 
Yeah thats one sweet lil tractor. My cubs are pretty basic in comparison but still running strong plowing the garden, pushing snow, off roading in the woods hauling out firewood, etc. Oh and grass, yeah they do that too. For about $300 they have served me pretty well so far! There have been a few 4x4 conversions out there but I'll never have enough fabricating skills for that (some pretty cool custom articulated ones too!). I would like to make some left/right brakes though, I've got a couple rear ends that have external caliper brakes so I think I can rig up some pedals to them individually. My one gear drive tractor I did put a hi/lo range creeper on it, my others are all hydro. Diff lock would surely help in the woods but I'm not aware of any way to add that to a cub.


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## boatboy63

Man, you make me sick. You started talking about being out of town all the time and got this much accomplished. I have a 4 day work week and still don't get this much done at home. You are making me look bad. Seriously, great job on what you have done. We have a small farm and I have a redneck shop. This means you make do with what you have. I have wanted to build a loader for 1 of our diesel tractors, but just can't find the time. I started an outdoor gasification boiler build about 2 seasons ago, but still haven't finished.


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## DrMCP

Very nice job on all of your builds!! I have a Satoh Beaver III I bought about 2 years ago it look very ruff at first but I did some cleaning and painting and it is looking and cutting great, how ever it does over heat and looses water out of it's radiator we have to let it cool down before we can finish mowing most of the times. I am now looking at putting a front loader on it as well but not sure where the hyd ports are on this beast.


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## sportbikerider78

Great project man.  Jealous of your skills!


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## bholler

really nice job it looks nicer than the stock one we have on our satoh


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## Knots

It looks like this is a little late, but here's some of the Power King literature for the loader:


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## Knots

Now you need the back hoe:


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## OhioBurner©

Knots said:


> Now you need the back hoe:



Did you see post 39? No finished shot but looks like he was working on it...


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## Knots

OhioBurner© said:


> Did you see post 39? No finished shot but looks like he was working on it...



I can't keep up.  The man is prolific.  Nice work.


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## ironpony

I cant help it but every time I read the title have to laugh....


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