# leaking standing seam roof



## OhioBurner© (Jan 15, 2016)

My house had a new standing seam metal roof put on in '07 (year before I moved in). In the great room there is one spot that drips a tiny bit during really bad storms, and has done this since we moved in. It only happens on bad storms though, some years it hasn't leaked at all so I forget about it. This year while doing renovations to the other side of the house during some really bad storms I noticed a little bit of drips coming down from the plastic they used under the fiberglass and running down one of the studs in the knee wall. It's probably leaked the whole time too but behind the knee walls wasn't used. I am renovating the upstairs and turning them all into living space instead of attic space.

I've been up on the roof and there is no obvious damage. I'm no roofer so not sure what's all involved with these roofs but this style looks pretty clear cut. There isn't any fasteners or anything through the roof panels and with no signs of damage I can't understand how this is leaking. Is the leak simply wind-blown rain getting up through the seams somehow? I don't imagine there is a fix for that scenario is there?


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## semipro (Jan 15, 2016)

Finding the source of roof leaks can be very tricky.  Keep in mind that the water you see may have traveled a bit once it penetrated the roof. 
I'd suggest looking to any existing roof penetrations first; vent stacks, ridge vents, etc. 
Hopefully Hogwildz will comment.  He knows roofs.


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## OhioBurner© (Jan 15, 2016)

No penetrations on the one roof, and the other has a chimney over a couple more feet but I doubt water would travel horizontal (no sheathing, so it should run right down) but I guess anything is possible.


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## peakbagger (Jan 15, 2016)

Good luck, Hogwildz will not agree but the commercial roofers I used to work with all had switched to installing storm shield under standing seam roof as they were sick of the service calls to chase leaks.  There are very few roofs installed locally without sheathing so I am not sure what is going on with your roof. With the storm shield underneath, the water just runs under the roof and comes out the bottom edge or the roof plus the storm shield is protected so its very long term roof as long as the galvalume coating doesn't fail. Usually if no penetrations, its water blowing in the top ridge cap and somehow getting under the roofing. It then runs down what ever is underneath the roofing until it finds a spot to leak through.


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## OhioBurner© (Jan 16, 2016)

peakbagger said:


> Good luck, Hogwildz will not agree but the commercial roofers I used to work with all had switched to installing storm shield under standing seam roof as they were sick of the service calls to chase leaks.  There are very few roofs installed locally without sheathing so I am not sure what is going on with your roof. With the storm shield underneath, the water just runs under the roof and comes out the bottom edge or the roof plus the storm shield is protected so its very long term roof as long as the galvalume coating doesn't fail. Usually if no penetrations, its water blowing in the top ridge cap and somehow getting under the roofing. It then runs down what ever is underneath the roofing until it finds a spot to leak through.


Well let me clarify the great room has a sheathed roof but I have no idea what is under it since it's a finished cathedral ceiling. This is the roof with no penetrations. I thought maybe the rain is just getting wind blown up under the ridge or something like that. Not sure if anything can be done for that though? The other roof is on the 1800's side of the house that has no sheathing or anything under the metal, just the little strips of wood (furring strips?). From the inside you could see daylight shining through in regular intervals at the creases and such, so I figure in really bad wind that rain is going to get there. Just wasn't sure if something needed to be done or just live with it.

I have 3 other leaks too (you figure for such a nice roof it wouldn't be this bad lol), but those are all explainable - 2 plumbing vent pipes and 1 at the seam where they added on the porch addition. Those I can deal with I think, well except the one vent pipe I've siliconed up a couple times and it still is leaking. As I recall the first time I did that one that there was a pretty big gap between the pipe and the edge of the hole, maybe if I can get all the silicone out I should fill in from the bottom with spray foam to fill most of the gap, then over the top with silicone? Would have been much nicer if they put it further from a seam so I could use one of those rubber boots.


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## HeavyMetalHippy (Jan 17, 2016)

You can buy a foam enclosoure strip with an adhesive backer for under the ridge cap that will stop wind driven rain and bugs, wasps etc. from getting in. You have to pull ridge cap, stick enclosures down on both pitches then put cap back on.
If you can see light through the roof from the attic...it gonna leak. Address every spot you see.
Also they make a boot for protrusions through metal roofs that sits on top of metal. Big rubber gasket with metal strip on top and fits the contour of sheets. You have to use a screw every darn inch and the boots are pricey, but man they make it easy. 
Good luck.


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## OhioBurner© (Jan 17, 2016)

I'll look into the foam enclosure strips, are you talking about the stuff that is by the window and door gaskets or is this a unique product?

I've looked at the rubber boots for the vent pipe at Lowes before but I don't think anything would work with a standing seam roof - and I have a seam that is like within an inch of the pipe. Or do they make something that would work in that scenario?


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## HeavyMetalHippy (Jan 17, 2016)

Unique product. Search for metal roof foam enclosure strips, you'll see. You will have to get the right profile for your panels.
For the boot, search for metal roof plumbing vent boot. You can find pictures of your same scenario. They make them fairly universal, one boot will fit many size pipes, you have to cut to fit kinda thing.
IMO don't use foam and silicon to fix that plumbing vent. Its the inncorrect way to do it, and you will be up there every rain season fixing that thing and kicking yourself.


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## jeanw (Jan 19, 2016)

OhioBurner© said:


> I'll look into the foam enclosure strips, are you talking about the stuff that is by the window and door gaskets or is this a unique product?
> 
> I've looked at the rubber boots for the vent pipe at Lowes before but I don't think anything would work with a standing seam roof - and I have a seam that is like within an inch of the pipe. Or do they make something that would work in that scenario?


 
some more Ramblings  guys

 Just curious? no insulation in the 1800 section of your house under the roof?  wow that sounds more like our sheds Hubby built here.
 yeah the ah  Amish guy used felt under ours... I just wish I would have read more.. The AH  also refused the starter strip from the Metal company.. found out later..... The AH wanted to put a roll of screws on the flats of the panels.
 The driver of the metal company that was rolling out the ordered pieces said "dont let him"
 So we made the AH  go out and buy a giant tarp and then next day, he the Amish AH, had his driver drive him miles to one of the metal roofing distrubutors to get the" Z "strips....
I also took lots of the many screws he ordered and several pc he over ordered... Oh the generous AH  took a generous $100 off.... wow....... course he didnt put bck the gutter guards either.....
we even loand him tools.........
And he never came back to fix a corner that was "up"......either...... 
   later while perusing" you tube" etc saw a "membrane" that was used instead of felt...RAH
You guys prob can just imagine lil old me, Bossy woman< watching him as much as possible and asking Hubby to check him and not be such a nice guy......
 so moral of story investigate yourself before hiring and watch some prof" You tubes" and ask around
thanks yall


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## Wooden Head (Jan 19, 2016)

jeanw said:


> some more Ramblings  guys
> 
> Just curious? no insulation in the 1800 section of your house under the roof?  wow that sounds more like our sheds Hubby built here.
> yeah the ah  Amish guy used felt under ours... I just wish I would have read more.. The AH  also refused the starter strip from the Metal company.. found out later..... The AH wanted to put a roll of screws on the flats of the panels.
> ...


Boy! You sure this guy didn't do Metal roofs in Michigan at onetime. Sounds like the pinhead that did mine.


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## OhioBurner© (Jan 24, 2016)

HeavyMetalHippy said:


> For the boot, search for metal roof plumbing vent boot. You can find pictures of your same scenario. They make them fairly universal, one boot will fit many size pipes, you have to cut to fit kinda thing.
> IMO don't use foam and silicon to fix that plumbing vent. Its the inncorrect way to do it, and you will be up there every rain season fixing that thing and kicking yourself.



I think the problem is how close the vent pipe is to the seam. The boot I saw needed at least a couple inches away from the pipe to trim to fit - I have a rib right about an inch or so away, I don't think any boot I've ever seen would fit that. Maybe I'll try to take a pic. It is the type of roof that has the 2 or 3" tall seams that are straight up.



jeanw said:


> some more Ramblings  guys
> 
> Just curious? no insulation in the 1800 section of your house under the roof?  wow that sounds more like our sheds Hubby built here.


There was some insulation in spots, but not very effective. When I tore down some walls it had very thin an brittle fiberglass batts that were almost not even there anymore, and were actually missing in some areas, and holes burrowed through from mice, etc. The roof had the interior plaster wall right on it (cape cod) and the roof trusses are only 2 3/4 to 3 1/4 inches thick so not much room for insulation anyhow. 1 of the two upsrtairs room had nothing between the metal roof and plaster interior wall, the other room they refinished some years ago and had R11 fg batts there. There were plenty of gaps in the walls where cold air was blowing right in too. I'm fixing most of the upstairs but no plans to tear out all the nicely finished walls of the main level (re done with sheetrock at some time, probably 10-15 yrs ago, wish they would have insulated and sealed them better!  ). Lots of air infiltration leaking in the gap between the two sides of the house, and as such can freely circulate around and come out any available hole anywhere. I can't wait to be rid of this place but it will likely be years.


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## HeavyMetalHippy (Jan 25, 2016)




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## HeavyMetalHippy (Jan 25, 2016)




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## HeavyMetalHippy (Jan 25, 2016)

This type of boot should work for you. It's what they are made for. You can get a boot with up to like a 24''x24'' base and cut it to fit a 1" pipe. They are very versatile. Just make sure the base is large enough to cover hole and seam and then cut it to fit the pipe, slide it over and fasten with proper fasteners.


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## OhioBurner© (Jan 27, 2016)

Will those flex at a 90 degree angle? Neither of those roofs have the same style ribs as mine. And must screws be used? I don't like the idea of putting screws through a screw-free roof, but that isn't the end of the world I suppose.


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## HeavyMetalHippy (Jan 31, 2016)

Yes.
They fit all styles of metal roof panels.
Yes screws.
If you are worried about screws just let it leak, or just do some jack legged crap like spray foam and the cheapest silicon you can buy. That way you can get up there every couple months and put more foam and silicon on it. Good luck.


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## Wooden Head (Feb 1, 2016)

OhioBurner© said:


> Will those flex at a 90 degree angle? Neither of those roofs have the same style ribs as mine. And must screws be used? I don't like the idea of putting screws through a screw-free roof, but that isn't the end of the world I suppose.



The screws need to be around the collar of the boot to keep it from ripping loose when snow and ice slide down the roof. When mine was put in by the installer, he put in 4 screws on each side and sealed it with silicon. It ripped loose the first year. I replaced it and found that the screw need to be space every inch and it was recommended that I use Geocel Ultima Roof Sealant. I also redid the othe boot on the roof with properly spaced screws and sealant. I checked them both the first couple of years after that and both are performing flawlessly. The Geocel sealant is great stuff. I bought it at Menards.


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## drz1050 (Feb 1, 2016)

I've never seen one of those rubber boots going over a standing seam rib.. not to say it can't be done, but seems like you would still need silicone to fill the gaps.


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## Wooden Head (Feb 2, 2016)

drz1050 said:


> I've never seen one of those rubber boots going over a standing seam rib.. not to say it can't be done, but seems like you would still need silicone to fill the gaps.


First, Don't use silicon. It will not holdup to the conditions on the roof. Yes, you do use a roof sealant between the first bottom inch of  the outside boot edge and the metal roof. This becomes the sealing gasket. All the boots that I've used have an aluminum collar around the outside edge. This can be formed to the ridge contours of the roof surface by tapping it with a standard hammer. The sealant fills any gap between the boot edge and the metal roof. The screws hold everything in place.


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## Buzz Saw (Feb 2, 2016)

Could you move the vent stack away from the seam enough to make the vent stack rubber boot work?   Elongate the hole, offset the stack with two 90° elbows and up through the roof. Cover hole with rubber boot.


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## jeanw (Feb 4, 2016)

Buzz Saw said:


> Could you move the vent stack away from the seam enough to make the vent stack rubber boot work?   Elongate the hole, offset the stack with two 90° elbows and up through the roof. Cover hole with rubber boot.


Hubby said the boot wouldn't work.. cause its right next to the standing seam.. I said couldnt you have moved the little piece of prob 1 and 1/4 pvc vent.. he said" naw who would have gotten in the attic and did it back then" ...Our pergoratory house is a hip roof  and no real head room where it(vent) was jack legged thru years ago... by the original owners.....
    I know, I know you're not supp. to speak ill of the dead.. Correct?
Good thing ...yall cant hear me yell most everday...... "those dumb, cheap... blank..blanks"   but I also say "dumb us"for buying this place...
so only caulk is around it, the vent now 
Hubby said naw its a speciality roof sealant...
  pitiful, lt WAS  the only  plbg vent in this pergatory house.. till Hubby had some redone plbg.9 pd plmber to change out cast iron to pvd and hub....
.Hubby added the flush up toilet in the basement. now he ran that up outside wall.... same as to vent the toilet and bathtub.......
  now to get the kitchen sink vented......


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## Buzz Saw (Feb 5, 2016)

jeanw said:


> Hubby said the boot wouldn't work.. cause its right next to the standing seam.. I said couldnt you have moved the little piece of prob 1 and 1/4 pvc vent.. he said" naw who would have gotten in the attic and did it back then" ...Our pergoratory house is a hip roof  and no real head room where it(vent) was jack legged thru years ago... by the original owners.....
> I know, I know you're not supp. to speak ill of the dead.. Correct?
> Good thing ...yall cant hear me yell most everday...... "those dumb, cheap... blank..blanks"   but I also say "dumb us"for buying this place...
> so only caulk is around it, the vent now
> ...


If the vent is 3" you can probably do the work from the top side if you cut a large enough slot to move the vent pipe.  No attic access required.


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## jeanw (Feb 5, 2016)

Buzz Saw said:


> If the vent is 3" you can probably do the work from the top side if you cut a large enough slot to move the vent pipe.  No attic access required.


 Naw like I mentioned its a small pvc pipe


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