# The New To Me Lopi Republic 1750, Is Home



## HDRock (Aug 18, 2013)

Went and picked it up today, 3 years old, it has a brick cracked and needs door gasket, other than that looks great,  got the 1 year old $250 blower with it to 
EDIT: Got it off a CL add, $450


----------



## begreen (Aug 18, 2013)

Yea. Looks like it made the trip fine.


----------



## HDRock (Aug 18, 2013)

Oh ya ! forgot ,took off one wood side on trailer , we loaded it with the sellers tractor , won't be so easy peazzy getin it in the house


----------



## 1750 (Aug 18, 2013)

This is exactly the stove I have, and really like it a lot.  

Congratulations on your new find and I trust it will treat you well.


----------



## HDRock (Aug 18, 2013)

1750 said:


> This is exactly the stove I have, and really like it a lot.
> 
> Congratulations on your new find and I trust it will treat you well.


Thanks
Got it off a CL add, $450
I will treat her to some nice dry wood


----------



## Woody Stover (Aug 18, 2013)

Nice stove, great deal!  Keep the pics coming as the install progresses.


----------



## HDRock (Aug 18, 2013)

Woody Stover said:


> Nice stove, great deal!  Keep the pics coming as the install progresses.


Replacing this 8 cu ft fire box, Smoke Dragon,36" long,24" round box ,28" hi, can load 30 to 36" log, 36 diagonally .


----------



## HDRock (Aug 18, 2013)

begreen said:


> Yea. Looks like it made the trip fine.


I should have put a pipe on it ,lit a fire and, cruse on down  ,cruse on down  , cruse on down the road  would that be a sight


----------



## begreen (Aug 18, 2013)

HDRock said:


> Replacing this 8 cu ft fire box, Smoke Dragon
> View attachment 108934


 
That should reduce wood consumption. Is that an old Orley?


----------



## HDRock (Aug 19, 2013)

begreen said:


> That should reduce wood consumption. Is that an old Orley?


This is a Fire View , see signature


----------



## HDRock (Aug 19, 2013)

begreen said:


> That should reduce wood consumption. Is that an old Orley?


 

To spite the stove I was able to burn fairly clean But , A Lot Of Attention


----------



## HDRock (Aug 19, 2013)

This Lopi seems like a toy  I know better


----------



## Woody Stover (Aug 19, 2013)

begreen said:


> That should reduce wood consumption.


According to the literature, the Fire-View has "efficient burning capabilities." That was written a few years ago, though. 
Can't quite read the specs on how many BTUs that is supposed to toss....


----------



## The Maine Stove Guy (Aug 19, 2013)

Congrats on the upgrade! Great stove.


----------



## BuckthornBonnie (Aug 19, 2013)

Great stove... you'll love the secondary show and will get surprisingly long burn times with the 2.2ft box.  Last year we didn't have the blower as the radiant heat worked really well.  We just installed the blower for the upcoming year.  This thing loves dry wood and, depending on your draft and chimney set-up, rarely has start-up or control issues. 



ps  For $450 you're close to the "craigslist deal of the summer" on that one...


----------



## HDRock (Aug 19, 2013)

Even though I had that big stove, I have been cutting every thing to 17"-18" , good thing,  so now I won't have to re-cut


----------



## 1750 (Aug 19, 2013)

HDRock said:


> Thanks
> Got it off a CL add, $450
> I will treat her to some nice dry wood


With the fan and a 15% discount because they had the unit up as a display, I paid $1,800 and change.   

Assuming it's in as fine condition as it appears in the pictures, you did very well, indeed.

I love a great deal even if it's not me who is getting it!


----------



## HDRock (Aug 20, 2013)

Found a great Lopi dealer 10mi away, got every thing I needed, the proper door gasket and adhesive ,a couple of other small things, stove bright paint.
They have a lot of stoves on display, the guy was very knowledgeable, and did not mind at all, answering the 100 questions I asked him


----------



## HDRock (Aug 22, 2013)

BuckthornBonnie said:


> Great stove... you'll love the secondary show and will get surprisingly long burn times with the 2.2ft box. Last year we didn't have the blower as the radiant heat worked really well. We just installed the blower for the upcoming year. This thing loves dry wood and, depending on your draft and chimney set-up, rarely has start-up or control issues.
> 
> 
> 
> ps For $450 you're close to the "craigslist deal of the summer" on that one...


Any tips on running it?
My first EPA stove, and This is the second stove I have ever had


----------



## HDRock (Aug 22, 2013)

1750 said:


> With the fan and a 15% discount because they had the unit up as a display, I paid $1,800 and change.
> 
> Assuming it's in as fine condition as it appears in the pictures, you did very well, indeed.
> 
> I love a great deal even if it's not me who is getting it!


Any tips on running it?


Got the old out and the Lopi in , just have to get it up on 12" hi hearth


----------



## 1750 (Aug 23, 2013)

HDRock said:


> Any tips on running it?
> 
> 
> Got the old out and the Lopi in , just have to get it up on 12" hi hearth


Yes, the weight is impressive!  Don't put the bricks back in until you get it where you want it! 

I'm really new to wood stoves, and all I learned, I learned from the helpful folks on this site.

This stove seems to work best if you build a small, hot fire and really get it going with the air control wide-open.  After it's going well, add more wood with it still open and then damp it down slowly to control your wood consumption.   I've had no trouble getting it to last the night if I fill it up before we go to bed; I can shut the air control all the way down and keep it burning through the night.

I have had lots of trouble with the thermostat in the blower.   The original problem was that it was in the wrong location (BG helped me sort that out).   And then, once I got it into the right position, it worked well for awhile and then got really inconsistent (i.e., it would come on at 400F, stay on for a few minutes and shut down again, off and on even at 500 and 600F).   I finally just took the thermostat out and jumped across the circuit to hard-wire it to the blower.   I had the dealer order me a new thermostat over the summer, and will install it again soon to give it another try.   If it doesn't work well, I will probably just permanently wire the fan to the blower (with no thermostat), as I like being able to turn it on whenever I want to -- the only downside is if the fire dies and we aren't paying attention, the blower just keeps on blowing.

Oh, and I also had trouble knowing what to do with the blower control.   We have a corner install, and the cord was too short to attach it to the wall in back of the stove.   I ended up getting some powerful little magnets and attached it to the heat shielding in the back.   It doesn't get very hot, and it's nice and convenient.

Good luck with your new stove!   Understanding that I don't know very much, if you have any questions specific to the 1750, I'm always happy to try and answer them.   I'm guessing, however, you will probably know more about it than I do before the week is out.


----------



## Pallet Pete (Aug 23, 2013)

Way to go HD looks like a nice stove ! You should be real warm this year.

Pete


----------



## BuckthornBonnie (Aug 23, 2013)

Well said, 1750.  I'll add that there's a bit of a learning curve with any EPA stove, but the 1750 makes the transition a bit easier.  The single-lever control on my Spokane is almost idiot-proof.  I find that there's a "sweet spot" you'll just have to discover by messing with different loads.  I got it a bit hot a few times this winter, but nothing a box fan and time couldn't control.  I rake the hot coals forward and like to do cigar burns on overnight loads.  I also pack it pretty darn full but am mindful of it all going off at once.  My parents have an old 1980s-era Blaze King (smokedragon) that I was used to operating before the 1750... there's a big difference haha.
A hot and small fire at startup is usually the key to a great burn.  Obviously don't throw a ton of super-dry wood on a hot coal bed, that's a quick way to get things going a little too hot.  I'm OCD about my glass, so I keep a paper towel or two handy to wipe down any residue or haze as soon as it appears.  I think we had dirty glass no more than 3 times all winter (not the best wood, at times).  Like I said before, dry wood will set off an amazing secondary show.  I specifically remember a couple loads of cherry that were pretty darn sweet.
In terms of clean-up, I remove my double wall connector and clean it on my deck (right near the stove).  Then I run my brushes up from the clean-out T.  I have quite a bit of chimney and the cap extends pretty far up from my roofline.  So far, so good on the cap staying clean.  At most I've gotten about 2 cups of dusty material out of the pipes.  It'll be even better this year since I'll be burning better wood.  I vacuum out the stove, check the tubes and baffle bricks, then fire her back up.  The total job is about an hour or so and I did it every month during a warm-up. 
If I think of anything else I'll PM ya... good luck and have fun with it!


----------



## BrotherBart (Aug 23, 2013)

Welcome to the good side of The Force. Be patient with the learning curve. Things gonna be different but you have been around here long enough to see lots of the threads with folks getting settled in with new burners.

And that is a hell of a deal ya got there.


----------



## BrotherBart (Aug 23, 2013)

BTW: Have I ever mentioned that steel stoves rule!


----------



## HDRock (Aug 24, 2013)

1750 said:


> Yes, the weight is impressive! Don't put the bricks back in until you get it where you want it!
> 
> I'm really new to wood stoves, and all I learned, I learned from the helpful folks on this site.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the input ,1750, I appreciate it 
. I thought that the intake air came in through the holes in the front , but apparently not , it appears that air comes out there from the blower.
Have you ever looked at the air control on the bottom ? here is A couple of shots , kind of strange the way it is shaped .









Pallet Pete said:


> Way to go HD looks like a nice stove ! You should be real warm this year.
> 
> Pete


Thanks Pete , I got her up on her pedestal now , I used some blocking and the farm Jack ,to raise it up on the 12" high hearth.
Once I got All the brick out and the heavy steel baffle supports, it was much easier to deal with ,I put some furniture sliders under the legs , slid it out of the trailer across the back deck , and into the house .I haven't put on the new door gasket yet you see old one hanging out in the picture 






BuckthornBonnie said:


> Well said, 1750. I'll add that there's a bit of a learning curve with any EPA stove, but the 1750 makes the transition a bit easier. The single-lever control on my Spokane is almost idiot-proof. I find that there's a "sweet spot" you'll just have to discover by messing with different loads. I got it a bit hot a few times this winter, but nothing a box fan and time couldn't control. I rake the hot coals forward and like to do cigar burns on overnight loads. I also pack it pretty darn full but am mindful of it all going off at once. My parents have an old 1980s-era Blaze King (smokedragon) that I was used to operating before the 1750... there's a big difference haha.
> A hot and small fire at startup is usually the key to a great burn. Obviously don't throw a ton of super-dry wood on a hot coal bed, that's a quick way to get things going a little too hot. I'm OCD about my glass, so I keep a paper towel or two handy to wipe down any residue or haze as soon as it appears. I think we had dirty glass no more than 3 times all winter (not the best wood, at times). Like I said before, dry wood will set off an amazing secondary show. I specifically remember a couple loads of cherry that were pretty darn sweet.
> In terms of clean-up, I remove my double wall connector and clean it on my deck (right near the stove). Then I run my brushes up from the clean-out T. I have quite a bit of chimney and the cap extends pretty far up from my roofline. So far, so good on the cap staying clean. At most I've gotten about 2 cups of dusty material out of the pipes. It'll be even better this year since I'll be burning better wood. I vacuum out the stove, check the tubes and baffle bricks, then fire her back up. The total job is about an hour or so and I did it every month during a warm-up.
> If I think of anything else I'll PM ya... good luck and have fun with it!


Thanks for the input ,BuckthornBonnie, It sounds like U R very happy with yours 


BrotherBart said:


> Welcome to the good side of The Force. Be patient with the learning curve. Things gonna be different but you have been around here long enough to see lots of the threads with folks getting settled in with new burners
> 
> hell of a deal ya got there.


Ya I think I did good

Finding a good used stove to fit what you need is not easy , it would have been so simple to walk into a store and buy one .
I did learn a lot about different stoves while looking .
I started looking for stove last fall and winter , but with not so great of wood I decided to run the smoke Dragon until this year when I will have good wood.
I should be burning less wood now .
What I have read Here is some people with new EPA stoves have problems with not so great wood , and choking it down too soon after they fire it up but , you can have problems with a smoke Dragon also if you choke it down too soon .
My old stove had about five different ways of controlling the air , this one should be a piece of cake 


BrotherBart said:


> BTW: Have I ever mentioned that steel stoves rule!


I don't think I would ever even conceder buying a cast iron stove.
My old steel stove is over 30 years old ,nothing ever broke , the only maintenance I did was to clean .
The guy I bought the house from heated with it for five years before he put a furnace in, then used it part-time, I used it part time, then started using it full time when my furnace broke, spring of 2012 , from now on it will be wood heat 100%

Edit   I forgot, I did buy a piece of crap boxwood stove one time ,put it in pole barn, I didn't know any better then


----------



## 1750 (Aug 24, 2013)

HDRock said:


> Thanks for the input ,1750, I appreciate it
> . I thought that the intake air came in through the holes in the front , but apparently not , it appears that air comes out there from the blower.
> Have you ever looked at the air control on the bottom ? here is A couple of shots , kind of strange the way it is shaped .


Those holes front to back don't seem to serve much of a function, as far as I can tell.   In some of the older models of the 1750 the whole on the left is where the blower thermostat was located, but in my manual they have changed it, and now it goes between the inner firebox and outer plating in the back.   I guess those holes probably allow the pass through for some convection air?

I like how there is really only the one adjustment, though I can see why a bypass might be particularly helpful to cut down on smoke rolling out when you are trying to reload.   That's something I did have a little trouble with when the ambient temp differential wasn't as great.   (My chimney's kind of short, so maybe my draft is more affected by this than others might be when it starts to warm up a bit.)


----------



## HDRock (Aug 24, 2013)

1750 said:


> Those holes front to back don't seem to serve much of a function, as far as I can tell. In some of the older models of the 1750 the whole on the left is where the blower thermostat was located, but in my manual they have changed it, and now it goes between the inner firebox and outer plating in the back. I guess those holes probably allow the pass through for some convection air?
> 
> I like how there is really only the one adjustment, though I can see why a bypass might be particularly helpful to cut down on smoke rolling out when you are trying to reload. That's something I did have a little trouble with when the ambient temp differential wasn't as great. (My chimney's kind of short, so maybe my draft is more affected by this than others might be when it starts to warm up a bit.)


Hmm that's strange cuz ,the instructions for the blower , I down loaded from lopi site and the ones I got with the stove both, show to install the thermostat in the left hole for the Republic, It shows installing it in the back on the
Liberty and Endeavor only


----------



## 1750 (Aug 24, 2013)

HDRock said:


> Hmm that's strange cuz ,the instructions for the blower , I down loaded from lopi site and the ones I got with the stove both, show to install the thermostat in the left hole for the Republic, It shows installing it in the back on the
> Liberty and Endeavor only


I just looked at the Travis site, and see what you are saying.  The manual with my stove changes the location of the snap disk. It doesn't go in this convection chamber in my manual, it goes vertically up the convection chamber in the back.  I don't have access to a scanner right now, or I'd scan it so you could see what I'm talking about.

I thought about just rotating it to be flat-facing the bottom of the stove (like yours and the manual now indicate), but the shape of the chamber seems to have changed on mine (gotten taller, I think), and the snap disk would be at least an inch below the stove body. It seemed like the intention was to have it actually contact the stove body, so I moved it back to where the instructions indicated it should go. I guess I could have set it on some tile to get it in contact with the floor.  I


----------



## HDRock (Aug 24, 2013)

1750 said:


> I just looked at the Travis site, and see what you are saying. The manual with my stove changes the location of the snap disk. It doesn't go in this convection chamber in my manual, it goes vertically up the convection chamber in the back. I don't have access to a scanner right now, or I'd scan it so you could see what I'm talking about.
> 
> I thought about just rotating it to be flat-facing the bottom of the stove (like yours and the manual now indicate), but the shape of the chamber seems to have changed on mine (gotten taller, I think), and the snap disk would be at least an inch below the stove body. It seemed like the intention was to have it actually contact the stove body, so I moved it back to where the instructions indicated it should go. I guess I could have set it on some tile to get it in contact with the floor. I


The snap disk has to be attached to the other metal part the snap disk extender , once installed in the hole ,the snap disk will contact the bottom of the stove, with out that other metal part the "snap disk extender" U would not be able to install the snap disk correctly .
That's why I had to order that part from a dealer the other day, I have every thing else for the blower except that part "snap disk extender"
Maybe that was missing when U got the blower new


----------



## BuckthornBonnie (Aug 24, 2013)

I just installed my blower in the left convection chamber as seen above.  The snap-disk isn't the best design, in my opinion.


----------



## 1750 (Aug 24, 2013)

HDRock said:


> The snap disk has to be attached to the other metal part the snap disk extender , once installed in the hole ,the snap disk will contact the bottom of the stove, with out that other metal part the "snap disk extender" U would not be able to install the snap disk correctly .
> That's why I had to order that part from a dealer the other day, I have every thing else for the blower except that part "snap disk extender"
> Maybe that was missing when U got the blower new


 
The manual I have locates the snap disk vertically in the convection space behind the back wall of the firebox.   It's supposed to slide up in through the left knock-out in diagram "A" of your manual.   But, if I can't get it to work again, I will try and come up with a snap disk extender, or something, and stick it into the bottom chamber.   




BuckthornBonnie said:


> I just installed my blower in the left convection chamber as seen above. The snap-disk isn't the best design, in my opinion.


 
Buckthorn, did your manual locate the thermostat in the back, as well, or does it look like the one in HDRock's manual above?


----------



## Augie (Aug 24, 2013)

I have the Avalon version of this stove, great pickup. You will enjoy it, I dont have a blower on mine and I think if you try it without you may not either. You actually have to remove the blower/not just take it off/ as it covers the holes used during the non blower convection. 

There are a couple of things you can do to 'hotrod" the stove to eek out a bit more performance, btu the stove is a great one right out of the box. 

Guessing you went to Brighton Stone, they are really knowledgeable and helpful.

Enjoy the new stove let me know if you want some info on mods I have done, or anything else.


----------



## eclecticcottage (Aug 24, 2013)

HDRock said:


> Hmm that's strange cuz ,the instructions for the blower , I down loaded from lopi site and the ones I got with the stove both, show to install the thermostat in the left hole for the Republic, It shows installing it in the back on the
> Liberty and Endeavor only


 

That "hole" is where our thermostat is, ours is only 2 years old-that's where the dealer installed it also.


----------



## HDRock (Aug 24, 2013)

1750 said:


> But, if I can't get it to work again, I will try and come up with a snap disk extender, or something, and stick it into the bottom chamber.


The "snap disk extender" should have came with your blower.



Augie said:


> I have the Avalon version of this stove, great pickup. You will enjoy it, I dont have a blower on mine and I think if you try it without you may not either. You actually have to remove the blower/not just take it off/ as it covers the holes used during the non blower convection.
> 
> There are a couple of things you can do to 'hotrod" the stove to eek out a bit more performance, btu the stove is a great one right out of the box.
> 
> ...


The dealer I went to is Konieczka in Davison ,great people there , they have a lot of stoves on display also.
I did read a little something in another thread , U talked about insulating brick



BuckthornBonnie said:


> I just installed my blower in the left convection chamber as seen above. The snap-disk isn't the best design, in my opinion.


Then U must have attached the other metal part the  "snap disk extender" , Is that correct ?


----------



## BuckthornBonnie (Aug 24, 2013)

The snap disk extender came with the stove. I purchased the blower a year later and it came with the snap disk that fits on top of the extender.  I used the same picture as HDRock to do my install.  Right now my control switch is on the floor (corner install).  There's not enough cord to place it at a convenient spot... I'll figure something out after I use it a few times, I'm sure.
Augie, interesting point about removing the blower.  Do you think the heating would be greatly affected by not removing the blower when I'm not running it??  The stove worked really well last year without the blower, I got it this year to get more heat moving around when needed.


----------



## 1750 (Aug 24, 2013)

HDRock said:


> The "snap disk extender" should have came with your blower.


 
Now I'm wondering if I have the wrong manual. The stove is at our cottage, and the manual is with it, so I can't check right now.

When I look at a picture I took and posted in an earlier thread of the original location of the snap disk (on it's side, in the lower left chamber), I'm now thinking maybe the installer didn't use the extender, and that's why the snap disk was too short in the chamber. When I look at this now, it looks like the extender is not attached. I'm guessing the installer put it in the right general location (but didn't use the extender) and that the sales guy was just wrong when he said it needed to go in the back. Again, I'm wondering if the manual he gave me is for one of the other stoves.

I think I'm just messed up here, but if I can score an extender, it should be a pretty easy fix. Plus, getting the thermostat up into the vertical convection space was a real pain, so this will be much easier. (See I told you you'd quickly know more about this stove than I did!)


----------



## begreen (Aug 24, 2013)

The snap disk face should be flat against the metal not cocked like that and it needs to be contacting the bottom of the firebox bed.


----------



## BuckthornBonnie (Aug 24, 2013)

Yupp, no extender on that bad-boy.  I think you're right, you used the wrong manual.  I'd call a local Travis dealer to pick up an extender before the burning season.  Mine came with my stove and I almost got rid of it a few times before we decided to get the blower this summer.  Someone must have one hanging around a shop... good luck!


----------



## HDRock (Aug 24, 2013)

BuckthornBonnie said:


> The snap disk extender came with the stove.


Thank you,   I didn't know that, that's probably why it wasn't with the parts for the blower I got .
The guy I got stove from didn't use the snap disk, he had blower hooked to a wall switch



1750 said:


> Now I'm wondering if I have the wrong manual. The stove is at our cottage, and the manual is with it, so I can't check right now.
> 
> When I look at a picture I took and posted in an earlier thread of the original location of the snap disk (on it's side, in the lower left chamber), I'm now thinking maybe the installer didn't use the extender, and that's why the snap disk was too short in the chamber. When I look at this now, it looks like the extender is not attached. I'm guessing the installer put it in the right general location (but didn't use the extender) and that the sales guy was just wrong when he said it needed to go in the back. Again, I'm wondering if the manual he gave me is for one of the other stoves.
> 
> ...


Manuals can be confusing some times, especially when they have different models in one manual
The dealer had a hard time finding that part, had to call dealer Tec  support, It's like a dollar, and 10 bucks shipping.
When the part comes in, I can get a part number, so U can get it from a dealer easier .
Do U have a dealer near by ?  If U don't mind, where are U in Mi. ?


----------



## HDRock (Aug 24, 2013)

All most ready for FIRE   a few more screws and let the door gasket adhesive set up, wait for temp to drop to 50


----------



## HDRock (Aug 24, 2013)

And we got fire  , got er up to 280
Edit : to heck with 50 temp, I guess my draft is good at 67


----------



## 1750 (Aug 24, 2013)

HDRock said:


> Thank you, I didn't know that, that's probably why it wasn't with the parts for the blower I got .
> The guy I got stove from didn't use the snap disk, he had blower hooked to a wall switch
> 
> 
> ...


I'm in Grand Rapids.  The dealer I work with here is Belden Brick.   I have a box with the legs in it (after we installed the pedestal), I guess maybe there's a chance the extender is in that.  I also wonder if you could just set the snapdisk on some ceramic tile to wedge it against the bottom.

Thanks again for your help.


----------



## 1750 (Aug 24, 2013)

begreen said:


> The snap disk face should be flat against the metal not cocked like that and it needs to be contacting the bottom of the firebox bed.


Yes, you already helped me with this in an earlier thread.   It's what prompted me to get the dealer involved -- and then got the (apparently) misinformation from the dealer that the disk goes in the convection chamber in the back.

I appreciate your help.


----------



## 1750 (Aug 24, 2013)

HDRock said:


> And we got fire  , got er up to 280


Woooo-hooo.... congrats, HDR.   That is a good looking fire.

 There are a few quintessential moments in a young man's life... his first fire in his new woodstove must certainly be one of them.


----------



## begreen (Aug 24, 2013)

Get this fixed before winter and you should be a happy camper.


----------



## 1750 (Aug 24, 2013)

begreen said:


> Get this fixed before winter and you should be a happy camper.


I'm on it!  

Anything should be better than last winter when I thought the thermostat was in the control box and was inventing different ways of trying to get the rheostat warm!


----------



## HDRock (Aug 24, 2013)

1750 said:


> I'm in Grand Rapids. The dealer I work with here is Belden Brick. I have a box with the legs in it (after we installed the pedestal), I guess maybe there's a chance the extender is in that. I also wonder if you could just set the snapdisk on some ceramic tile to wedge it against the bottom.
> 
> Thanks again for your help.


If U can get the snap disk , facing up, tight to the bottom of the fire box ,  it should work right.
We posted at the same time, I got fire,Hee Hee


----------



## 1750 (Aug 24, 2013)

HDRock said:


> If U can get the snap disk , facing up, tight to the bottom of the fire box , it should work right.
> We posted at the same time, I got fire,Hee Hee


My thermostat doesn't kick the blower on until the stove top temp is about 400F.   I'll be interested in when your kicks in.

Enjoy your fire!


----------



## HDRock (Aug 25, 2013)

1750 said:


> My thermostat doesn't kick the blower on until the stove top temp is about 400F. I'll be interested in when your kicks in.
> 
> Enjoy your fire!


 I'll let ya know , blower not hooked yet , just  curing the new paint, and setting the gasket


----------



## HDRock (Aug 25, 2013)

1750 said:


> Woooo-hooo.... congrats, HDR. That is a good looking fire.
> 
> There are a few quintessential moments in a young man's life... his first fire in his new woodstove must certainly be one of them.


 Thanks,   I wish I was a young man


----------



## 1750 (Aug 25, 2013)

HDRock said:


> Thanks, I wish I was a young man


Most of age is a state of mind  -- except for my bad knees, of course.   Those are just old knees.


----------



## HDRock (Aug 25, 2013)

BuckthornBonnie said:


> I also pack it pretty darn full but am mindful of it all going off at once


This is something I am not sure about , once U get a fire going how to load it up and not have it all going off at once.
This little 2.2 cu ft fire box is vary different than my old 8cu ft box
Most of this stuff isn't really specific to this stove
How long are the secondary's active with a full load?
I had it fired up last night ,then with a couple of 4" splits secondary's ran about 1 1/2 hours. Edit may have only been 1 hour

Man !! the secondary's going is really cool 



BuckthornBonnie said:


> I rake the hot coals forward and like to do cigar burns on overnight loads


Could U define cigar burns ? are the secondary's working during this ?
How


----------



## BuckthornBonnie (Aug 26, 2013)

Good questions... For longer burns you'll want to rake the hot coals forward so the majority of your split's surface area isn't in direct contact with the hot stuff.  This delays the burn slightly and burns from front to back. For over-night/long burns, keep the wood tight together.  For shorter/day time burns, you can have more space and/or throw in a few logs rather than pack it full (short, hotter fires are best).  Your stove may have a spot that burns better than others. You'll also want to learn how your stove reacts to start-ups and re-loads (ie, how long does it take to cool vs. how long does it take to heat up to proper burning temps).  I learned quickly that you never put a full load directly onto a hot coal bed, it'll off-gas and get your stove pretty darn hot haha.  If you do this have a box fan pointed directly at the stove, shut down the air, and ride it out.  There are a bunch of threads on here about stoves going nuclear and other ways to bring 'em down to temp.
Depending on moisture content and possibly the type of wood, I'd say the secondaries keep firing until the fuel is close to losing its shape and becoming a pile of coals.  On a good load last year we had 'em firing for several hours with only a minor air tweak or poke.


----------



## begreen (Aug 26, 2013)

A cigar burn is N/S loading. Wood burning from the front to the back. In stoves that have a boost manifold front and center (PE, Englander 30NC) some have found this to burn more quickly and hotter. Now I do N/S for startup fires and quick heat and load E/W for longer burns.


----------



## HDRock (Aug 26, 2013)

begreen said:


> A cigar burn is N/S loading. Wood burning from the front to the back.


 
Oh that makes sense, I have been wondering about the N/S loading deal, it didn't really apply with my old stove.
So does N/S loading generally give you longer burn times ?


----------



## begreen (Aug 26, 2013)

HDRock said:


> Oh that makes sense, I have been wondering about the N/S loading deal, it didn't really apply with my old stove.
> So does N/S loading generally give you longer burn times ?


 
Maybe it does for others, but not in our stove.


----------



## HDRock (Aug 26, 2013)

begreen said:


> Maybe it does for others, but not in our stove.


what's the advantage or disadvantage of loading N/S ?


----------



## HDRock (Aug 26, 2013)

BuckthornBonnie said:


> Good questions... For longer burns you'll want to rake the hot coals forward so the majority of your split's surface area isn't in direct contact with the hot stuff. This delays the burn slightly and burns from front to back. For over-night/long burns, keep the wood tight together. For shorter/day time burns, you can have more space and/or throw in a few logs rather than pack it full (short, hotter fires are best). Your stove may have a spot that burns better than others. You'll also want to learn how your stove reacts to start-ups and re-loads (ie, how long does it take to cool vs. how long does it take to heat up to proper burning temps). I learned quickly that you never put a full load directly onto a hot coal bed, it'll off-gas and get your stove pretty darn hot haha. If you do this have a box fan pointed directly at the stove, shut down the air, and ride it out. There are a bunch of threads on here about stoves going nuclear and other ways to bring 'em down to temp.
> Depending on moisture content and possibly the type of wood, I'd say the secondaries keep firing until the fuel is close to losing its shape and becoming a pile of coals. On a good load last year we had 'em firing for several hours with only a minor air tweak or poke.


Thanks for the reply.
 I did not realize before there was another search function at the top of the page (Search ttl.  site ) it works really well, did some searching last night and found answers to most all my questions about running a EPA stove.


----------



## Augie (Aug 26, 2013)

If your stove goes off and it is way to hot, open the door all of the way, the large amount of cool air cools everything down, you can toss a few scoopfuls of ash on the fire while the door is open, and when the temps come back to normal close the door, keep an eye on it for a while but everything should be back to SOP.


----------



## HDRock (Aug 26, 2013)

Augie said:


> If your stove goes off and it is way to hot, open the door all of the way, the large amount of cool air cools everything down, you can toss a few scoopfuls of ash on the fire while the door is open, and when the temps come back to normal close the door, keep an eye on it for a while but everything should be back to SOP.


Really !!  open the door ? When you have the air control shut down ?


----------



## Augie (Aug 26, 2013)

Yup, if your air is shut down all the way and temps are still climbing to a point you are uncomfortable, both stove top, and/or flue(this is the going nuclear people talk about) opening the door all the way will add more O2 to the fire but it also allows the fire/flue to suck as much cooler air as it wants through the fireplace, and stops the secondary combustion. This combination of halting secondary combustion and introduction of cool air going up the flue will get everything back under control very quickly. 

the first time it takes BIG BAWLS to pull the door wide open, not just open 6-8 inches, you need to swing the door all the way open , initially you will feel a furnace blast of heat, but it will calm down immediately.


----------



## HDRock (Aug 26, 2013)

Augie said:


> Enjoy the new stove let me know if you want some info on mods I have done, or anything else.


What mods did you do?
 I know you put some insulating brick in ,exactly where did you buy it, and what improvements did it make ?


----------



## Augie (Aug 26, 2013)

Insulating Fire Brick on the top and sides, it keeps more heat in the firebox promoting faster secondary combustion and allows me to cut back on the air faster,further than normal for a given load of wood. You can get insulating firebricks at your local fireplace shop.

This is all I did and the improvement is noticeable. There are other things you can do but then you are wringing the last bit of performance out. Know the IFB wears out quicker and you will have to replace it every other year rather than every 5-8 years for standard.


----------



## HDRock (Aug 29, 2013)

BuckthornBonnie said:


> For longer burns you'll want to rake the hot coals forward


How often do you need to clean out ashes ?


----------



## Augie (Aug 29, 2013)

HDRock said:


> How often do you need to clean out ashes ?


 
Depends on the outside temp, the wood type your burning, how long your willing to let coaling stage go. Shoulder seasons I was getting away with once every 2-3 weeks, heart of winter maybe once a week, those really cold weeks, maybe 2x a week. 

The stove runs better with a .5-1 inch layer of ashes on the bottom to provide some added insulation. after that is is a combination of how much you are willing to let get built up before it starts reducing the size of your firebox/ spills out the front.


----------



## HDRock (Aug 29, 2013)

Augie said:


> Depends on the outside temp, the wood type your burning, how long your willing to let coaling stage go. Shoulder seasons I was getting away with once every 2-3 weeks, heart of winter maybe once a week, those really cold weeks, maybe 2x a week.
> 
> The stove runs better with a .5-1 inch layer of ashes on the bottom to provide some added insulation. after that is is a combination of how much you are willing to let get built up before it starts reducing the size of your firebox/ spills out the front.


Thanks Augie
That sounds not to bad, I know It's good to have a couple inches of ash in there.
Cleaning ashes out of this stove will be a piece of cake.
My big old stove I could go a month or more depending, and was much harder to reach in the end, and the reach all the way to the end of the 3 foot stove

Do you take the stove pipe apart when you clean the chimney ?


----------



## Augie (Sep 3, 2013)

HDRock said:


> Do you take the stove pipe apart when you clean the chimney ?



Yea, once you have done it a couple of times it is pretty easy. We don't have the ability to open up the flue so in our stoves ash/creosote will fall from the flue and pile on the Steel Plate in the back, pulling the fire bricks and plate can be done without removing the Secondary Burn Tubes. I would say pulling the stove apart and reassembly should take you an additional 10-20min after you have done it a few times.

When I emptied the stove I usually did it after an overnight burn, didst even wait for all the coals to be gone, moved as many as I could to one side then got a bunch of ashes out, then did the same thing for the other half of the stove, you dont get everything out and you end up putting some hot coals in your ash bucket, but we all leave the ash bucket outside on concrete to cool for 24hrs before emptying it. Well at least I do. I usually didnt empty the ash can until i was ready to fill it up again, in a pinch during an over fire situation tossing a few scoopfuls of ashes on the fire really helps calm things down.

I need to do My preseason cleaning if you want to stop by for a beer and to see how I do it.


----------



## HDRock (Sep 3, 2013)

Augie said:


> Yea, once you have done it a couple of times it is pretty easy.


 Yea ,I took out the baffle bricks, the supports and the rear baffle plate to reduce weight before moving the stove in the house


----------



## Augie (Sep 3, 2013)

HDRock said:


> Yea ,I took out the baffle bricks, the supports and the rear baffle plate to reduce weight before moving the stove in the house



you have the Idea then.....


----------



## 1750 (Sep 9, 2013)

HDRock said:


> The snap disk has to be attached to the other metal part the snap disk extender , once installed in the hole ,the snap disk will contact the bottom of the stove, with out that other metal part the "snap disk extender" U would not be able to install the snap disk correctly .
> That's why I had to order that part from a dealer the other day, I have every thing else for the blower except that part "snap disk extender"
> Maybe that was missing when U got the blower new
> 
> View attachment 109378


I finally remembered to grab my manual and look at where they have the thermostat located.  It's like I remembered, vertical in the back convection chamber, not  in that horizontal chamber where your manual (and the Travis online manual) places it.  I'll call the dealer tomorrow and see if we can get a snap disk extender ordered up.  Here's the page from my manual:


----------



## HDRock (Sep 9, 2013)

1750 said:


> I finally remembered to grab my manual and look at where they have the thermostat located.  It's like I remembered, vertical in the back convection chamber, not  in that horizontal chamber where your manual (and the Travis online manual) places it.  I'll call the dealer tomorrow and see if we can get a snap disk extender ordered up.  Here's the page from my manual:


 Did U install it in that position and try it?
It's kind of unclear , your instructions say to be sure the snap disk is touching the fire box but, it doesn't say if it should touch the back or bottom of the fire box, looks like they mean the back of the fire box though.
Do U need the snap disk extender to install it in that way ??
Does it say any thing about the using the snap disk extender on another page, or at all ?


----------



## 1750 (Sep 10, 2013)

HDRock said:


> Did U install it in that position and try it?
> It's kind of unclear , your instructions say to be sure the snap disk is touching the fire box but, it doesn't say if it should touch the back or bottom of the fire box, looks like they mean the back of the fire box though.
> Do U need the snap disk extender to install it in that way ??
> Does it say any thing about the using the snap disk extender on another page, or at all ?



It friction fits into the vertical space without the extender, but kept sliding back down when the stove would heat up (and I'm assuming the space would expand).

I've contacted the sales guy and asked him to provide the extender (it's not included or mentioned in the rest of the manual).

I also figure I could stack it on some tile, or just fold a support out of a piece of duct metal to get it into contact with the bottom in that left convection chamber.


----------



## HDRock (Sep 10, 2013)

1750 said:


> It friction fits into the vertical space without the extender, but kept sliding back down when the stove would heat up (and I'm assuming the space would expand).
> 
> I've contacted the sales guy and asked him to provide the extender (it's not included or mentioned in the rest of the manual).
> 
> I also figure I could stack it on some tile, or just fold a support out of a piece of duct metal to get it into contact with the bottom in that left convection chamber.


If U want to install it in the channel with the snap disk extender, this is what U need ,   *Snapdisc Braket (1750) part# 250-01370 ,*


----------



## 1750 (Sep 11, 2013)

HDRock said:


> If U want to install it in the channel with the snap disk extender, this is what U need ,   *Snapdisc Braket (1750) part# 250-01370 ,*


Thanks.  I haven't heard back from the dealer yet.   Do you think just bending some light weight metal (like duct work) to create a table to wedge that thing on would also do the trick?  Or does there seem to be something special abot the snap disk bracket?


----------



## HDRock (Sep 11, 2013)

Try to bend what U have, for a tight fit,  to keep it from sliding, or call  Travis, and talk to them, if necessary give them a link, to this thread so they may understand what is what


----------



## HDRock (Sep 11, 2013)

1750 said:


> Or does there seem to be something special abot the snap disk bracket?


 That bracket is nothing more than a tensioned spacer


----------



## 1750 (Sep 11, 2013)

HDRock said:


> That bracket is nothing more than a tensioned spacer


Thanks!  I'll have to call the service guy again, as I haven't heard back from him.


----------



## 1750 (Apr 23, 2014)

Hey, HD... how'd the first real season with the 1750 go for you??


----------

