# Marking Logs for Length



## k9brain (Feb 19, 2011)

When bucking logs into length for the stove I usually cut 12" NS and 16" EW lengths.  My boot gives me a pretty good 12" and the bar of the chainsaw is ~16".  Is there a better way to mark the log when bucking?  I can't seem to get anything better than a Crayola crayon to mark the log.  What are you using to measure your lengths and mark the log?


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## LLigetfa (Feb 19, 2011)

I used a yellow lumber crayon to mark one time but then it broke in two so now I mostly just use the nose of my bar.  Been known to use a hatchet too on rare occasion.


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## chinkapin_oak (Feb 19, 2011)

paint stick:
http://www.markal.com/cat/155/solid-paint-markers.aspx
I use white for the dark colored bark, and black for the light barked trees.  I run a tape, or yardstick the length of the log, and mark every 15-16"

Your local farm supply store or industrial supply store will probly have them since they are used in almost every industry.


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## shawneyboy (Feb 19, 2011)

Lumber crayon FTW !

Shawn


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## loon (Feb 19, 2011)

dont mark the cuts but do carry this kinda stuff with me in the fall when in the woods. give the ones that need to be knocked down over winter a quick eye level spray and is very handy..

loon


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## Bigg_Redd (Feb 19, 2011)

k9brain said:
			
		

> When bucking logs into length for the stove I usually cut 12" NS and 16" EW lengths.  My boot gives me a pretty good 12" and the bar of the chainsaw is ~16".  Is there a better way to mark the log when bucking?  I can't seem to get anything better than a Crayola crayon to mark the log.  What are you using to measure your lengths and mark the log?



I use a measuring tape and a can of utility marking paint.


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## PapaDave (Feb 19, 2011)

I just use a measuring tape, then cut. No marking.


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## Shari (Feb 19, 2011)

I carry one of those blaze orange fiberglass sticks that people use to mark the edges of their driveways for snow plows.  I tapped off 20" on the stick & 'mark' with chalk.


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## Beardog (Feb 19, 2011)

Chainsaw bar works well for me


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## DonNC (Feb 19, 2011)

ChocoLab said:
			
		

> Chainsaw bar works well for me



I thought there would be allot more answers like this. I figure if use the bar to guesstimate between the width and length of your stove it should be alright


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## mainstation (Feb 20, 2011)

Buy a "whip" for your saw, or buy 2, one for E-W cutting and one for N-S .


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## woodmeister (Feb 20, 2011)

bar works for me


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## k9brain (Feb 20, 2011)

These are all things I'm already doing. Thanks for the replies, I'll have to get a lumber crayon.

Mainstation, what do you mean by a whip?


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## trailrated (Feb 20, 2011)

I just eye ball it.


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## Wood Duck (Feb 20, 2011)

My "16 inch" chainsaw actually has about 14.5 inches of bar extending beyond the body of the saw. Lots of short logs in my stacks.


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## flatlandr (Feb 20, 2011)

I use a folding pruning saw and a broken piece of foot rule.


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## DBoon (Feb 20, 2011)

Measuring tape and blackboard chalk


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## bboulier (Feb 20, 2011)

I have a bow saw that is marked with different lengths.  I measure and then cut a line in the log, then another measure and cut, etc.


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## TreePointer (Feb 20, 2011)

I use my bars most of the time to measure.  On 20" bars and longer, I take a black sharpie and draw a vertical line on the bar at 16" and 18" from the edge of the powerhead.

The Mingo Marker works great on straighter sections.


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## cjsplitter (Feb 20, 2011)

I use my daughters colored chalk for writting on the side walks and concrete. A box of them are cheap and they last a long time. I like yellow and light blue. Then I run a tape measure  that has a spike tap on the end and it has red square every 16 in for stud work.


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## Duetech (Feb 20, 2011)

k9brain said:
			
		

> These are all things I'm already doing. Thanks for the replies, I'll have to get a lumber crayon.
> 
> Mainstation, what do you mean by a whip?



I believe he means an attachment that fits on the saw and sticks out 90* to the bar. It will give you an "eyeball" for the next cut.


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## Backwoods Savage (Feb 20, 2011)

I sometimes use a 16" marker and mark that with a lumber crayon or just score the log with an axe. Sometimes I just eyeball it and I have at various times just used the bar.

You can get a lumber crayon at Home Depot and they are cheap. But then, most of us have an axe with us so scoring with the axe works very well and is even cheaper.


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## mainstation (Feb 20, 2011)

Cave2k said:
			
		

> k9brain said:
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yes, exactly.  You mount it on a 90* and cut it to the length you want.  The last ones I saw were fluor. orange heavy duty plastic.  Also there is a Youtube video out there where Buddy uses a threaded rod deal that mounts right onto his bar.  Years ago when I cutting cutting firewood for a guy under the table, he would always gimme crap about being inconsistent with somoe of my lengths and threaten to put a "whip" on my saw.  
Now I just eyeball it for my own use and am usually within an inch.    The bar length trick is probably the fastest way and doesn't require putting down the saw.


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## burr (Feb 20, 2011)

My stove requires a shorter length (12"-13" or so), so when cutting, I've learned that if I set the saw on the log, the entire width of the saw is an inch or so short.  Setting the saw on the log takes the weight offa me for a second and shows me where to put the next cut.


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## richg (Feb 20, 2011)

I use an 18 inch piece of dowel and cheap sidewalk chalk from the dollar store. It's foolproof, which is very helpful in my case ;-))


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## CodyWayne718 (Feb 20, 2011)

Its already been said but I use the bar also


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## PapaDave (Feb 20, 2011)

trailrated said:
			
		

> I just eye ball it.


I used to do that, but for some reason, the rounds ended up being all kinds of different lengths. Doesn't work well when filling the stove. Only takes a few extra seconds per log to measure, and I'm not in any race anyway.


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## Kenster (Feb 20, 2011)

richg said:
			
		

> I use an 18 inch piece of dowel and cheap sidewalk chalk from the dollar store. It's foolproof, which is very helpful in my case ;-))



+1


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## Kenster (Feb 20, 2011)

I carry a 19.5 inch dowel in my wood cutting tool box (milk crate) and sometimes I use that and my hatchet to make a notch in the log.
However, there is a mark on the side cover of my Stihl that happens to be right at 19.5 inches from the tip of the bar (16 inch bar) so I use that as a guide.  Much quicker.   My stove is 22 inches wide so 19 1/2 inch splits work just right.  

I don't think I'd ever go to the trouble and expense of spray painting my marks.  For one thing, I don't want to be burning paint in my stove.


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## Mad Tom (Feb 20, 2011)

Mark your bar.


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## jhoff310 (Feb 21, 2011)

I just screw some all thread into my nuts and use that....here is the pic ....I am too cheap to buy baileys screw on stick so I made my own

Jeff


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## WhitePine (Feb 21, 2011)

[quote author="jhoff310" date="1298268166"]I just screw some all thread into my nuts and use that..../quote]

So tempted to reply... but... must... not ..... :zip:  :zip:  :zip:


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## wood spliter (Feb 21, 2011)

I use the bar also and hit it with the blade.  I just work my way op the log than come back cutting.


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## jhoff310 (Feb 21, 2011)

WhitePine said:
			
		

> jhoff310 said:
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## gandrimp (Feb 21, 2011)

I have a rope with zip ties every 16 inches. I can make 7 marks at a time. Keeps my hands free for the saw.
I have also used the bar and I have guessed alot also.


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## bioman (Feb 21, 2011)

I mounted a GPS on my saw !


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## mainstation (Feb 21, 2011)

jhoff310 said:
			
		

> I just screw some all thread into my nuts and use that....here is the pic ....I am too cheap to buy baileys screw on stick so I made my own
> 
> Jeff







That pic is the "Whip" I spoke about.


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## Shari (Feb 21, 2011)

jhoff310 said:
			
		

> I just screw some all thread into my nuts and use that....here is the pic ....I am too cheap to buy baileys screw on stick so I made my own
> 
> Jeff



What material did you use for the whip?


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## PapaDave (Feb 21, 2011)

I like the gps idea,.....as long as it wouldn't constantly be telling me to "turn right".


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## jhoff310 (Feb 21, 2011)

I used all thread, could use anything from a piece of pipe welded to a long nut or whatever tickles your fancy... I love mine I need to make a few more for my other saws

Jeff


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## Flatbedford (Feb 21, 2011)

I carry a stick that is the correct length and mark with an axe or hatchet.


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## lpp5855 (Feb 21, 2011)

Tape measure and then use my scrench to scratch a mark.  Good thread!


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## bogydave (Feb 22, 2011)

My avatar has the jig I use.
easy on & off.
can mount it to a small saw & mark then grab good saw & cut.
After limbing, I put it on & get very close to the same length on all  rounds.

here is the post & a video of it in action.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/51317/


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## darkbyrd (Feb 22, 2011)

I use a cant hook on a home made handle. The handle is 5'4", with handsaw kerfs every 16 inches. It fits the tractor bucket, and gives me 4 16" rounds when I cut at the splitter. On a long log, I lay the handle along the log, and mark with my chainsaw the whole length, moving the handle every few marks. The hook helps it prop up along the log either on top or the ground. And it is a handy tool to have on hand anyway.

Edit: clarity


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## CaddyUser (Feb 22, 2011)

I made one of these, and it seems to work good for me.   

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFpTR8AWRqk


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## darkbyrd (Feb 22, 2011)

CaddyUser said:
			
		

> I made one of these, and it seems to work good for me.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFpTR8AWRqk



That looks slick. PVC and chalk-line chalk?

ETA: I'm a burning chunk! Unlike the disastrous top-down fire I just started, that's more like a smoldering mass right now.


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## doelen (Feb 22, 2011)

I use a 15 inch hammer handle, and a V-shaped wood chisel to gouge
a mark, which doesn't wash off if I have to walk away from a log half way
through. I used to think it was stupidly anal to measure. But then I couldnt'  
get a full two cords into my wood shed because it wasn't even enough . . .


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## Marsh Rat (Feb 22, 2011)

Eyeball it.  My stove takes a 24 inch log so I try to cut it around 20"  I'm never off by more than 2 to 3" so it all fits.


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## mayhem (Feb 22, 2011)

Way too much thought and effort going into this in my opinion.  

Just use a pair of these.  Couple cuts to get used to it and you'll be within a half inch of the desired length every time.


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## gerry100 (Feb 22, 2011)

Use a Sharpie to mark the EW and NS lengths on the saw.

Very quick in practice. 

Better to be a little short than be wrestling with a too long log and a hot stove at 11pm.


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## Intheswamp (Feb 22, 2011)

LLigetfa said:
			
		

> I used a yellow lumber crayon to mark one time but then it broke in two so now I mostly just use the nose of my bar.  Been known to use a hatchet too on rare occasion.


LLigetfa, I'm curious as to how you measure your cuts?  
Ed


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## firefighterjake (Feb 22, 2011)

Use the bar of the saw . . . cutting firewood isn't exactly required precision work . . . I'm just looking to make sure it is short enough to go into the firebox . . . not looking to send a man into space or building an inter-stellar telescope.


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## firefighterjake (Feb 22, 2011)

mayhem said:
			
		

> Way too much thought and effort going into this in my opinion.
> 
> Just use a pair of these.  Couple cuts to get used to it and you'll be within a half inch of the desired length every time.



What if you have brown eyes?  

And what if the person who originally owned these eyes wants them back?


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## mayhem (Feb 22, 2011)

firefighterjake said:
			
		

> What if you have brown eyes?



Irrelevant since I don't.



> And what if the person who originally owned these eyes wants them back?



Well let them just try and find you without their eyes.  If they start to chase you, make sure to run through the woods, the trees will slow them down considerably.


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## billb3 (Feb 22, 2011)

PapaDave said:
			
		

> I like the gps idea,.....as long as it wouldn't constantly be telling me to "turn right".



just make sure you buy a blue one


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## CaddyUser (Feb 22, 2011)

darkbyrd said:
			
		

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You got it, PVC and Chalk-line chalk.....


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## darkbyrd (Feb 22, 2011)

CaddyUser said:
			
		

> darkbyrd said:
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I knew it wasn't going to be worth $5, but a good idea anyway. I might make me one of those, thanks


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## mliiiwit (Jan 31, 2012)

bogydave said:
			
		

> My avatar has the jig I use.
> easy on & off.
> can mount it to a small saw & mark then grab good saw & cut.
> After limbing, I put it on & get very close to the same length on all  rounds.
> ...




BD's length gage has gotten a lot of criticism on some threads, but I like it and intend to make my own.  Thanks for sharing BD.

If you cut your own wood, think about it:
Why cut a buck length more than once?  Do you really love the 130 db output of your saw, frustration, wasting wood, gas, time, etc.?
Why cut a length shorter than optimal for your stove?
Either of the above wastes wood.  Short cuts = more cuts per log, long cuts eventually = more cuts per log.  Cuts = waste unless you're collecting and burning the saw dust.  Anyone doing that?  If so, your first name might (unofficially) be "Anal".
Only one short per log, at most, to deal with.
Beautiful stacks.
Less frustration.
No time-wasting "saw bar" or "two pinkie to thumb spans" measuring or log marking.
Not all eyeballs are properly calibrated.
Do you ever intentionally let gas or diesel spill on the ground when you're filling up your vehicle, tractor or gas can?  NO?  Then why cut twice (long cuts), or make more cuts than needed (short cuts).  The result is the same.

I know some of this is picking nits for bucking up a log or a few.  But added up over a lifetime, or the lifetime of a stove or your wood-cutting years, it would prove to be significant in comparison to the investment in the gage and time spent installing and removing it.

My $.02 worth.


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## greythorn3 (Jan 31, 2012)

ya i love to cut the right lengths, seems my dang saw wants to cut a crescent insteal of a straight line anymore, i dont know what the deal is with it.


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## CTYank (Jan 31, 2012)

greythorn3 said:
			
		

> ya i love to cut the right lengths, seems my dang saw wants to cut a crescent insteal of a straight line anymore, i dont know what the deal is with it.



Uneven height of bar rails, almost certainly. Likely caused by dull cutters on one side of chain. Doesn't take long to check & rectify all.
(Whenever you see dust coming off the saw, it is assuredly dull enough to require filing NOW.)

If the problem goes away when you flip the bar, you've found it.


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## bogydave (Jan 31, 2012)

roundoak16 said:
			
		

> bogydave said:
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Thanks.
Works well for me. 

Changed my Avatar, & now have the length set for 17", fit N/S in stove well.
When I can, I cut like in the video
Sometimes I put it on the small saw, walk the log & mark it. 
Still  using it., Had to buy a few extra 1/4-20 wing nuts, maybe i should paint them flo-orange, May try an "earth magnet" to hold it on the bar.  
Anal, maybe, but I like 17" wood.


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## velvetfoot (Jan 31, 2012)

Lately I've gotten away from marking and just carry a light 16" piece of brightly painted wood.


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## Stevebass4 (Jan 31, 2012)

i've got a scrap piece of wood shingle  that i cut to 11 inches and i mark the logs with a can of marking paint.


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## Wood Duck (Jan 31, 2012)

I just eyeball it and it works great. One day I actually cut two pieces the same length! Another time I cut one to the right length! I can't wait until next time to see if I can catch lightning in a jar again.


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## firefighterjake (Jan 31, 2012)

Still eyeballing it or using the chainsaw bar . . . and it still works pretty well . . . at least until I go blind . . . than I may have a problem with this method.


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## mudbug250 (Jan 31, 2012)

I use wooden dowel cut to 16", then mark the cut line with a small handsaw.  I just need to paint my dowel Stihl Orange so it will be easier to find when I accidentally drop it.


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## barkeatr (Jan 31, 2012)

i got thinking that you could mount a laser marker pen at an angle on the saw, somewhere near the trigger end of the saw.  when the laser shows up you cut.  dont confuse the idea of laser with a pursuite of ridiculous accuracy...but simply a way to "mark" the log with something that doesnt get in the way.  I googled it and see there is already a patent for this.  I have a pretty good eye for lenghts, but for some reason with logs i cannot eyeball it consistantly.  i may order a cheap laser pen and see if i can mount it in my saw housing..


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## LLigetfa (Jan 31, 2012)

barkeatr said:
			
		

> i got thinking that you could mount a laser marker pen at an angle on the saw...


I have certainly given that consideration.  The problem with a single light source is that it would not be parallel to the bar, so the angle of the saw would affect the measurement.  To overcome that, I would use two points of light that converge into one at the point that the bar is roughly perpendicular to the wood.


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## firefighterjake (Jan 31, 2012)

If it fits, it burns . . . at least that's my motto.

Bucking up wood to become stove chow isn't exactly rocket science requiring exact laser like measurements . . . now on the other hand if someone could design a Jedi Light Saber chainsaw to cut up wood I would be all for that.


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## LLigetfa (Jan 31, 2012)

firefighterjake said:
			
		

> Bucking up wood to become stove chow isn't exactly rocket science requiring *exact laser like measurements* . . .


barkeatr already stated that the laser pointer was not for "exact laser like measurements" so I fail to see why you had to go there.

I have seen lasers used in a sawmill on the light table, where the sawyer positions the boards for best yield and as the saw blades are moved, so too do the laser lines.  It would be cool to have a series of laser lines to mark where to cut.


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## barkeatr (Jan 31, 2012)

....regarding the light being parallel to bar, I was thinking it would not be parralel.   i thought you could mount the laser at an angle to compensate..but now that i think about it the diameter of the log would change where the laser hit it, making the idea unworkable.


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## greythorn3 (Jan 31, 2012)

CTYank said:
			
		

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ya it sure does need a sharpening


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## toonces (Feb 1, 2012)

used tape measure and one of my kid's Crayola chalks. worked great and fast.


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