# New Guy; forced into burning for primary heat.



## newburner (Aug 31, 2014)

Hey all!

I've been lurking around this board for a few months now. I figured I'd join since burning season is coming in quickly.

A little background. I live in Massachusetts, land of oil heat dependence. Early this spring, our oil fired furnace finally broke down and literally disintegrated due to rust from a wet basement. Since we live paycheck to paycheck, there was no way we were able to replace the furnace at $10k plus. So, we made the decision to try to heat our home using our fireplace. Not optimal I know but given our finances, it was all we could do.

In an effort to maximize our heating capacity, we decided to install a wood burning insert into our open fireplace. We went with the Century CW2500 mostly due to cost. Found it online for less than $700 delivered. Paid another $800 or so for install, liner and cap and we were in business!

I'm at a complete loss as to how much wood I would need to get through the winter but in speaking with friends and neighbors who burn, I'm thinking a minimum of 4 cord. 

I found a guy locally who is selling cords for $175 delivered and ordered 4. So far I have received 2 and am expecting the rest by the end of September. I was a bit nervous about how seasoned the wood was going to be since I really need it for this winter. I was pleased to see that most of the wood meters out in the 15-19% range on a mm.

If I can get by this winter on 4 cord, I'll have spent $700 on fuel as opposed to the $1,800+ I spent every year on oil.

I want to thank everyone here. I wouldn't be where I'm at right now without the knowledge I've absorbed from this forum. I plan on updating this thread as I progress through the winter as a first time burner.

Wish me luck as I move through these uncharted waters!


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## aansorge (Aug 31, 2014)

Start scrounging now and next year you won't need to pay a thing!  Use craigslist to find free wood and keep your eyes open for any downed trees. 

15 to 19 % moisture from recently delivered wood is rare!


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## newburner (Aug 31, 2014)

Here are some shots of my insert from delivery to first fire. Yes I burned in JULY.


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## newburner (Aug 31, 2014)

aansorge said:


> Start scrounging now and next year you won't need to pay a thing!  Use craigslist to find free wood and keep your eyes open for any downed trees.
> 
> 15 to 19 % moisture from recently delivered wood is rare!


Yes. I'm already planning to do that. I'm just not sure how to go about it. I've read a few threads here about it but still learning.


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## chrispr1 (Aug 31, 2014)

Good work so far. Do you have your own mm to gauge the wood?  Whereabouts in MA are you?  I know several very reputable dealers in west of exit 4.


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## newburner (Aug 31, 2014)

Yea. I picked up one of the Generals at Lowes.

I'm located in western mass right between Springfield and Worcester.


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## Doug MacIVER (Aug 31, 2014)

pick up every pallet you see. free heat. scrounge around industrial parks, with permission to take any extra pallets. don't be afraid of pine, just doesn't last as long as harder wood. if you can afford canawick, eco bricks, ect, @ $275-300/ton do so. don't waste green wood, wait til it is dry. good luck


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## newburner (Aug 31, 2014)

Thanks for the tips! Yea I've thought about the pallets and am planning on doing that if need be. 

I've also been eyeing those North Idaho energy logs. I can get them locally for $269 a pallet. I've read a lot of good reviews on how they burn but I don't know how long a pallet of them is expected to last if burning 24/7.


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## Warm_in_NH (Aug 31, 2014)

Doug MacIVER said:


> pick up every pallet you see. free heat. scrounge around industrial parks, with permission to take any extra pallets. don't be afraid of pine, just doesn't last as long as harder wood. if you can afford canawick, eco bricks, ect, @ $275-300/ton do so. don't waste green wood, wait til it is dry. good luck




Never thought of the pallets as "free heat" as I drive by a stack of them for free nearly every day at my local lumber yard. Think I'll start throwing them in the truck. They'll be good shoulder season burning.


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## Doug MacIVER (Aug 31, 2014)

newburner said:


> Thanks for the tips! Yea I've thought about the pallets and am planning on doing that if need be.
> 
> I've also been eyeing those North Idaho energy logs. I can get them locally for $269 a pallet. I've read a lot of good reviews on how they burn but I don't know how long a pallet of them is expected to last if burning 24/7.


be careful, that stuff burns real hot , I burn my jotul with air off after 5-10 minute start. use them for overnite  and workday heat. burn the hell out of pallet wood and splits the rest of the day.


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## Grisu (Aug 31, 2014)

Nice install. Congrats to your new hobby. 

Finding truly seasoned wood delivered for $175 sounds almost too good to be true. Did you measure the moisture content by splitting a few pieces in half and inserting the pins in the fresh surface, preferably along the grain? 

I second the recommendation of the pallets. A PITA to cut up but usually free and burn well. Avoid the painted ones though. NIELs are also a good choice but I would only mix them in with your other wood as they can easily lead to an overfire at 68,000 BTU per log and very little moisture content.


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## Osagebndr (Aug 31, 2014)

If you have any sawmills nearby try getting cutoffs and also try cl , I've gotten some serious scores on cl


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## Treacherous (Aug 31, 2014)

newburner said:


> Thanks for the tips! Yea I've thought about the pallets and am planning on doing that if need be.
> 
> I've also been eyeing those North Idaho energy logs. I can get them locally for $269 a pallet. I've read a lot of good reviews on how they burn but I don't know how long a pallet of them is expected to last if burning 24/7.




They work great  I mixed them with my other cord wood to extend burn times.


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## newburner (Aug 31, 2014)

Grisu, yep I measured inside newly split pieces. I'm a true student of this forum.

Osagebndr, I do in fact have a sawmill down the road. I never thought about that possibility. Thanks for the tip.


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## Osagebndr (Aug 31, 2014)

Your welcome. I learned a bunch from this group of people . There's tons of knowledge to gain here for the asking


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## JTRock (Aug 31, 2014)

Congrats and welcome! ! You scored with that delivery.


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## newburner (Aug 31, 2014)

Thanks JT. Yea I'm starting to think I got real lucky. I hope the next 2 cord are as good.


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## Grisu (Aug 31, 2014)

JTRock said:


> Congrats and welcome! ! You scored with that delivery.



Indeed. For that amount of money I would stop processing wood myself.


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## prezes13 (Aug 31, 2014)

I agree, I live in ct and you cannot buy any wood for $175 and never mind truly seasoned.  As far as 4 cords you might have just enough.  Depends on your house of course.  I heated my 1994 build raised ranch roughly 1200sf with a 1.5 of pretty crappy maple (split and stacked beginning of summer) one ton of Eco Bricks and 188 gallons of oil.  We kept our house pretty hot because of my young daughter if it was 72 or lower my wife was "freezing".  There is free wood around but it takes time.  Check cabinet makers they throw a lot of scraps, pallets are great, check if there is any places making a wood pallets  they have a lot of well seasoned scrap wood.  See if you can get hooked up with a guy who has a tree removal service.  Most of the time they got a lot of wood which they don't want to deal with.  They will gladly drop it off in you yard.  Good luck. First season is always tough.  At least you found this place which is full of helpful and knowledgable people.


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## newburner (Aug 31, 2014)

prezes13 said:


> Good luck. First season is always tough.  At least you found this place which full of helpful and knowledgable people.



I'm finding that out first hand. I'm still pretty nervous going into the season. My wife is a bit more optimistic.

Shortly after I got my wood delivered and it was still piled in the driveway, I had a guy stop by to let me know that he can sell me cord wood and he has the best price in town. He asked me how much I paid per cord and I told him. He simply chuckled and said I'm better off staying with my supplier.


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## JTRock (Aug 31, 2014)

prezes13 said:


> I agree, I live in ct and you cannot buy any wood for $175 and never mind truly seasoned.  As far as 4 cords you might have just enough.  Depends on your house of course.  I heated my 1994 build raised ranch roughly 1200sf with a 1.5 of pretty crappy maple (split and stacked beginning of summer) one ton of Eco Bricks and 188 gallons of oil.  We kept our house pretty hot because of my young daughter if it was 72 or lower my wife was "freezing".  There is free wood around but it takes time.  Check cabinet makers they throw a lot of scraps, pallets are great, check if there is any places making a wood pallets  they have a lot of well seasoned scrap wood.  See if you can get hooked up with a guy who has a tree removal service.  Most of the time they got a lot of wood which they don't want to deal with.  They will gladly drop it off in you yard.  Good luck. First season is always tough.  At least you found this place which full of helpful and knowledgable people.



Tell me about it. I just got 3 cord delivered today and it's far from seasoned even though it was toted as such. Sad part is it was a referral. Though the sad realization is maybe 1/2 the people out there have no idea you shouldn't burn that wood. Now I guess it will be Envi Blocks this year


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## prezes13 (Aug 31, 2014)

It's true you cannot buy a seasoned wood.  Sad part is that a lot of people who are saying that they have seasoned wood they truly believe it's seasoned.  That's because most of the time they burn in old smoke dragons and the wood that they split and stacked in spring or even Summer they can burn in their stoves without a problem.


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## Grisu (Aug 31, 2014)

prezes13 said:


> It's true you cannot buy a seasoned wood.  Sad part is that a lot of people who are saying that they have seasoned wood they truly believe it's seasoned.  That's because most of the time they burn in old smoke dragons and the wood that they split and stacked in spring or even Summer they can burn in their stoves without a problem.



Actually, here you can (almost). A neighbor bought "seasoned" wood for $250 the cord and I asked if I could test it just out of curiousity. It read between 20% and 25% on my MM; mostly maple from what I could see. I can also get kiln-dried wood here for $275 plus delivery. However, for that amount of dough I would simply go for Eco-bricks.


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## prezes13 (Aug 31, 2014)

Yes you are totally right Grisu, it's like never say never.  This exactly why if I had to buy wood I would rather buy Eco Bricks.  No guessing games.  This year I am going to buy one ton just to  supplement my wood. To extend my night time burns, I want to burn 24/7 this year.


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## JTRock (Aug 31, 2014)

I did the math ct pellet has Envi Blocks for $295 a ton + $50 delivery 1st ton and $10 for each ton after.. That's almost $1200 for 3 tons!! Whoa.. Some times learning hurts


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## newburner (Aug 31, 2014)

So is there a difference in Eco bricks, bio bricks, and envi bricks? Or are these all just general terms to describe one product?

If they are different, which is better? With such a small firebox, my main concern is extending burn times as much as possible.


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## JTRock (Aug 31, 2014)

I believe Begreen did a review on bio bricks which is found on the wiki and had good things to stay. I was told Envi's are great quality too


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## BrotherBart (Aug 31, 2014)

Yeah those big pellets are outrageously priced, compared to the little pellets.


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## tigger (Aug 31, 2014)

Newb- that little century will throw some heat. I have had mine 3 years and it's done 80% of our heating. It struggles in the dead of winter but for most of the time it woks quite well. You will get short burn times(4hours of useable heat) because of the small firebox. If someone is around to feed it you will be ok. What's the house set up....sq. ft?, layout? I am switching my century out this year to a blazeking. Looking forward to the longer burn times. Keep up the good work. There are a lot of free wood on CL out where you are. Keep looking.


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## newburner (Aug 31, 2014)

Yea, I've witnessed the heat output already. When I did burn in July, our old furnace thermostat showed a 5° jump in temp after 2 hours. The thermostat is located two rooms away from the hearth room. 

My house is a 1500sf single level ranch built in 1959. Typical of the era, its not an open floor plan. Every room is cut off and accessible by one, single wide doorway. I know, its going to be a challenge. I already have plans to open up the transoms to help warm air flow from room to room. I'll also make use of strategically placed fans. The rest of the house, including bedrooms will be equipped with oil filled radiator style room heaters.


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## BrotherBart (Aug 31, 2014)

Gonna be fine. And warm in the joint this winter.


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## Woody Stover (Sep 1, 2014)

tigger said:


> little century will throw some heat. I have had mine 3 years and it's done 80% of our heating. It struggles in the dead of winter but for most of the time it woks quite well. You will get short burn times(4hours of useable heat) because of the small firebox.


Yours the 2500 as well?


BrotherBart said:


> Yeah those big pellets are outrageously priced, compared to the little pellets.


So how does that translate for weight, about the same as dry cordwood? ie, is 1000# maybe 1/4-1/3 cord depending on species?


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## prezes13 (Sep 1, 2014)

newburner said:


> So is there a difference in Eco bricks, bio bricks, and envi bricks? Or are these all just general terms to describe one product?
> 
> If they are different, which is better? With such a small firebox, my main concern is extending burn times as much as possible.


They are all different brands.  Try them all and find out which once work best for you.  From all the once I tried Eco Bricks worked best for me.  BT Enterprises have EcoBricks for $265 a ton plus $20 delivery.  They are close to my house so I skipped the $20 fee and put it in my Tundra.


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## Beer Belly (Sep 1, 2014)

prezes13 said:


> They are all different brands.  Try them all and find out which once work best for you.  From all the once I tried Eco Bricks worked best for me.  BT Enterprises have EcoBricks for $265 a ton plus $20 delivery.  They are close to my house so I skipped the $20 fee and put it in my Tundra.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Seriously.....how did the Tundra do handling that ton of bricks ??


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## ddahlgren (Sep 1, 2014)

Ran some bio bricks last year and they sort of burn ok. A lot of heat at first the not so much after. They will get the secondarys going for a bit then not enough heat to keep them lit. Ok for a bit of a cold day to take the chill off. Buy the Mrs. some long johns to help keep warm 72 on a zero day might be a bit optimistic.


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## prezes13 (Sep 1, 2014)

Beer Belly said:


> Seriously.....how did the Tundra do handling that ton of bricks ??


Well it's about a 2 miles from my house so it did handle but I wouldn't travel across the state.  It's a TRD truck so has a bit beefier suspension but still not a one ton truck.


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## prezes13 (Sep 1, 2014)

ddahlgren said:


> Ran some bio bricks last year and they sort of burn ok. A lot of heat at first the not so much after. They will get the secondarys going for a bit then not enough heat to keep them lit. Ok for a bit of a cold day to take the chill off. Buy the Mrs. some long johns to help keep warm 72 on a zero day might be a bit optimistic.


I didn't like bio bricks for the reason you just mentioned.  EckoBricks are almost twice the size and maybe a bit more compressed I found them working great for me.  About 8-10  of them in the evening had the house nice and warm.  I would start from scratch about 3:30 pm when I got home from work and by 6 house would be 70 or more degrees, from low 60.


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## JTRock (Sep 1, 2014)

prezes13 said:


> I didn't like bio bricks for the reason you just mentioned.  EckoBricks are almost twice the size and maybe a bit more compressed I found them working great for me.  About 8-10  of them in the evening had the house nice and warm.  I would start from scratch about 3:30 pm when I got home from work and by 6 house would be 70 or more degrees, from low 60.



How do they do on an overnight burn?


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## JTRock (Sep 1, 2014)

By the way we are probably neighbors lol!  When you describe places we are usually in the same proximity.


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## prezes13 (Sep 1, 2014)

JTRock said:


> By the way we are probably neighbors lol!  When you describe places we are usually in the same proximity.


I never really tried to burn them over night because I was being frugal "cheap", but one evening I loaded the stove at 5:30 I had to put 10 or 12 of them and when I was leaving for work at 6:30 am next morning fan was still on.  It was at least 40s outside but still impressive.


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## JTRock (Sep 1, 2014)

Sounds like you could mow through a ton at that rate.


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## newburner (Sep 1, 2014)

ddahlgren said:


> Buy the Mrs. some long johns to help keep warm 72 on a zero day might be a bit optimistic.



That might not be necessary. She always kept the thermostat at 62 anyway. We both like it on the cooler side. Her main concern is that it'll be too hot in the hearth room.


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## infinitymike (Sep 1, 2014)

Hey, Newburner,
Sorry to hear about your oil burner.....NOT!
You'll be so glad not having to shell out money to the domestic terrorist oil companies.
Me personally, I  don't buy a stick of wood after buying my first 2 cords of "seasoned" wood that was still wet to the touch.
I too came here as green as fresh split wood and never burned a fire other then a jobsite burning barrel full of framing scraps or a camp fire.
I now have 25 cord c/s/s and burn year round for heat and DHW
I have a pallet place that gives me for FREE 4'x4'x4' cribs of cut up pallet wood that are destined for the dumps. I use them only for summer hot water. 

You'll do just fine.

I'm surprised, you and no one else as mentioned or asked, what are you doing for hot water?
I assume you have an oil fired indirect hot water heater?


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## newburner (Sep 1, 2014)

Actually we have an electric water heater. The oil furnace used to heat our water but a couple of years ago, that portion of the furnace went. They HVAC guy said in order to fix it, a full furnace replacement was necessary. We opted for the electric WH. Glad we did cause we never run out of hot water like we used to.


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## bholler (Sep 1, 2014)

I have a question infinitymike and i am not being critical i just have wondered for a while and you where the first person i came across to ask.  Do you really think heating dhw with wood all summer makes sense?  To me it seems like a waist of wood and effort.  I used to run a coal furnace That heated my dhw all winter but i never even considered running it all summer i put in an electric tank for the summer and it really doesnt cost very much to run.  But that is just my opinion


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## infinitymike (Sep 1, 2014)

bholler said:


> I have a question infinitymike and i am not being critical i just have wondered for a while and you where the first person i came across to ask.  Do you really think heating dhw with wood all summer makes sense?  To me it seems like a waist of wood and effort.  I used to run a coal furnace That heated my dhw all winter but i never even considered running it all summer i put in an electric tank for the summer and it really doesnt cost very much to run.  But that is just my opinion




Good question and I don't feel criticized at all.
There have been a lot of threads about this in the boiler room.

I don't use cord wood for fuel in the summer.
I use FREE pallet blocks that are already cut up.
It only takes about 10-15 blocks to bring the Wood Gun up to temp and charge the 40 gallon indirect tank.
Usually I will light a fire at 6am  and shut the unit down when it reaches temp,15-20 minutes later.
Depending on how much laundry or dishwashing there is, my wife may have to light a fire around noon.
Then I will light a fire for the evening showers and start all over again, the next morning.

Really easy and not that I ever monitored it but I would guess the electric to run the Wood Gun, and circ pumps would be less then a electric water heater, but maybe I'm wrong.
But even still, if I went electric I would have to recoup my initial investment.


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## bholler (Sep 1, 2014)

I agree that straight out lay of money is definitely cheaper with wood but not at all if you figure any thing for your time.  I did not notice the first time you were running a wood gun i just assumed you were running an owb those are the ones that make no sense to me smouldering away all day long just for dhw.  Your setup is a totally different animal so not a wast of wood i just don't see the effort to have enough payoff in my mind.


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## NewStoveGuy (Sep 1, 2014)

newburner said:


> My wife is a bit more optimistic...



...because you're the one who has to deliver the woodpile, and ultimately, the heat!

Mine too this first season on wood only (we had the same story with the failed primary heating system and lack of funds to replace).

Take heart, she has faith in you!


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## Enzo's Dad (Sep 1, 2014)

I dont Know About Mass, but In Ct there are alot of state subsidised programs to replace an old boiler. They offer financing rebates if you go with any energy star. I may get a heat pump for Domestic Hot water .....perfect for you wet basement since they act as a de-humidifier.


Found a link
http://www.mass.gov/eea/energy-util...ancing-and-tax-incentives-for-homeowners.html


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## ddahlgren (Sep 1, 2014)

Never got any video just sound.


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## Chettt (Sep 1, 2014)

The mistake I and every first year burner made is to forget that the real winter weather begins in January. Don't burn any of your good cord wood until then no matter how bad you want to.  Scrap lumber and or eco bricks or electric heaters can get you by through the fall. 

Also, never listen to an optimistic wife about how much wood is needed. I would freeze to death every year if I listened to mine.

Good luck.


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## ddahlgren (Sep 1, 2014)

You always need a cord more than you have. Cut up pallets are usually free. This year going to the 'dark side' as I swapped the Avalon out and have a Crane 404 that will burn wood and coal though a good deal better with coal. Coal is more money but don't have to season and takes up much less no bugs either. So this a cord of wood that is well seasoned and 2 1/2 tons of coal. 12 hours between loading and empty the ash pan once a day. The same people that say it is dusty would make a similar mess with wood as well. For those that say it smokes it does not if anthracite and for those that talk about all the toxic minerals it is suitable for land fill in most places.


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## prezes13 (Sep 1, 2014)

JTRock said:


> Sounds like you could mow through a ton at that rate.


I got ton of those bricks by the end of February.  I was burning them on week nights and weekends.  I still have few bundles left.  So not as bad as I was thinking but still not free.


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## Phoenix Hatchling (Sep 1, 2014)

JTRock said:


> I did the math ct pellet has Envi Blocks for $295 a ton + $50 delivery 1st ton and $10 for each ton after.. That's almost $1200 for 3 tons!! Whoa.. Some times learning hurts


$955 if my fuzzy math is correct.


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## JTRock (Sep 1, 2014)

Phoenix Hatchling said:


> $955 if my fuzzy math is correct.


I was close


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## firefighterjake (Sep 2, 2014)

JTRock said:


> I was close



You were just rounding up, right?


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## JTRock (Sep 2, 2014)

firefighterjake said:


> You were just rounding up, right?


Haha precisely


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## newburner (Sep 6, 2014)

Here's a question for you guys...

During my test burns, I'm finding that I'm unable to close the damper more than about half way. If I do, the fire eventually dies out. 

Is my fire not hot enough? I get it rip-roaring and the secondaries are firing like blowtorches.


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## prezes13 (Sep 6, 2014)

I assume that is just as hot in MA as it is in CT.  Because of the minimal temp differences between outside and inside I will say the problem is lack of draft.  When it's going to get cold or really cold you should have no problems.


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## blacktail (Sep 6, 2014)

Warmer outside temps cause weak draft.


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## newburner (Sep 6, 2014)

Awesome! That makes perfect sense. Thanks guys.


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## hoverwheel (Sep 6, 2014)

JTRock said:


> I was close



Common Core Math?


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## JTRock (Sep 6, 2014)

True that. Ran into same thing when I did a burn off last Sunday. I figured the heat and humidity was impeding


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## JTRock (Sep 6, 2014)

hoverwheel said:


> Common Core Math?



Wow! Out of all the things talked about in this thread glad you made a helpful contribution by honing in on that


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## hoverwheel (Sep 7, 2014)

JTRock said:


> Wow! Out of all the things talked about in this thread glad you made a helpful contribution by honing in on that


Yup. Without a sense of humor, life is pretty dull.


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## JTRock (Sep 7, 2014)

hoverwheel said:


> Yup. Without a sense of humor, life is pretty dull.


Agreed


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## newburner (Sep 18, 2014)

Just a quick update...

I'm currently waiting for my 3rd cord to be delivered this week and hope to be in a position to get the 4th in a couple of weeks.

My supplier says he delivers year round so my plan is to continue to have 1 cord delivered each month until I'm 3 years ahead.

Elsewhere on the wood front, I've been actively collecting pallets whenever I see them. I drive a truck for a living so I have access to as many as I need. I've also done some calling around to tree companies in the area to ask if they wanted someplace to dump. Unfortunately, all the tree companies around here also sell firewood on the side so no luck.

I really want to get into scrounging but I haven't a clue how to get started. I see so many trees down on various roads but I don't know how to approach the situation. I don't want to trespass or otherwise do anything illegal.

On the stove front, I have finally finished my series cure burns and am ready to go full time!

Also, I picked up this Rutland thermo. Does anyone have any experience with this model? I really wanted a Condar (based on the reviews here) but the Rutland was the only thing available locally and I just wanted instant gratification.


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## Cynnergy (Sep 19, 2014)

That thermometer seems to read a bit low - that being said you don't want to go over 800F anyway!  Don't believe the overfire zone marking - I think that's a marking for when you use it on single wall pipe.  Not sure about your stove (being an insert) but I'm happy as long as my stove is below 700F and it only goes above that very rarely.


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## Cynnergy (Sep 19, 2014)

Oh and I use a Rutland too - it was what was available locally.  Mine has a sticky spot at about 325F so watch out for that.  I guess I should get a condar but just haven't got to it yet...


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## newburner (Sep 19, 2014)

Thanks for the heads up Cynnergy. Yes, I noticed the sticky spot right about the same spot too. Appears to stop increasing in temperature then all of a sudden it pops up about 100°. I'll in all likelihood get a Condar eventually, but I really wanted something now for the cure burns.


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## newburner (Sep 20, 2014)

So, in an effort to lessen the learning curve, we lit the insert last night. Unlike previous burns, the results were less than satisfactory.

Outdoor temps were in the lower 40's. All the windows were firmly closed. Something that we had not done previously. I had a very difficult time keeping the fire lit while the door was closed. If I cracked it, the fire raged, but the stove temperature did not increase. When I closed the door, the fire would slowly die out, but the stove temps would rise. However, I was never able to get the temps above 400°. After several hours, I eventually gave up and went to bed. This morning,  there was still one charred but smoldering log left.

I figured id try again this morning.  Lower 50's outside.  I loaded the box and was having the same results. Raging fire with the door cracked, smolder with the door closed. It seems like there just wasn't enough air? Then I remembered a post I read around here that said something about cracking the window closest to the stove to improve draft?

I tried that and the improvement was immediate. For stays lit with the door closed now, but.. I'm still  finding it difficult to get the stove over 400°.

I didn't have any of these issues in my previous burns with warmer outside temps. I thought it would be easier to maintain a hot fire as the outside temps dropped.


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## Grisu (Sep 20, 2014)

Is your house pretty airtight? Usually an outside air kit (OAK) would be the way to go then but that will be hard with an insert in a masonry fireplace. Since wet wood does not seem to be the issue here, you will need to improve draft. How tall is the chimney? Adding some pipe may help. Has the liner been insulated?


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## clr8ter (Sep 20, 2014)

OP, if I was you, I'd be real nervous. I live in S NH, and around here, $175 is an extremely good price for GREEN wood, delivered. I'd say at a MINIMUM, 4 cord. And be real careful with pallets. Some are green as hell. If they don't look weathered, they're probably sopping wet. If they are dry, they will take your stove to The Gates Of Hell real fast. And, that insert is going to have to be loaded several times a day. When I was home last winter, I could load out Oslo often enough so it wasn't a problem. We don't have an idea setup, as the stove is at one end of the house, in another room. We have a fan/s to blow the heat out of there. And, lastly, don't foget the learning curve. We're still learning after 3 seasons. Good luck.


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## clr8ter (Sep 20, 2014)

BTW, our stove behaves the same way when it's above freezing. I think it just needs lower temps to draft well.


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## newburner (Sep 20, 2014)

Grisu,

I never thought it to be airtight. We have some pretty drafty windows. However, when all the windows are closed, it becomes difficult to close interior doors. It feels as if there's too much air pressure in the rooms to allow the door to close without us pushing hard on it.

I'm not sure if the liner is insulated. I didn't see the installers put the liner in. I am thinking that it probably isn't because when they were here, I noticed the liner they took from their truck was nothing more than a coiled up SS tube. It did not appear to be insulated. Unless that is separate?

clr8ter,

Yea, we are anticipating having to load several times. We are getting about 4 hours of usable heat out of a load. (3 hours of flame) Although, I lit it this morning at 8:30 and didn't turn the fan off until 2:00pm because it was still throwing heat. Even now at 3:45pm, with no fire left, the room is still warmer than it usually is.

I usually get up for work about 3-4 hours after the wife comes to bed so staying warm overnight shouldn't be an issue if she loads before bed and I reload when I get up. I'm hoping to extend burn times by mixing in some bio blocks. I bought a few 20 packs today and will test burn some tonight. I'm just not sure if I should test with a full load of bio bricks or just 2-3 mixed with cord wood. Any thoughts?


----------



## clr8ter (Sep 20, 2014)

My thoughts are I don't know why the bio blocks at all...I don't use them. Getting wood with the highest possible BTU's might be a better way to go. Compare red oak to bio blocks in terms of BTU.  Also, not for nothing, but neither me or the wife get up to stoke the stove. Maybe once or twice a year, on the coldest nights, or if we can't sleep. That's it. I'm not motivated enough to get my ass out of a warm bed to do that.


----------



## newburner (Sep 20, 2014)

LOL, I hear you. Neither of us are getting up just to stoke a fire either. Fortunately our schedules are such that one of us will always be near the insert at least once every 4 hours to load as needed.


----------



## newburner (Sep 21, 2014)

Brought a half cord up to the deck this  weekend. These racks are steps away from the door.





I also purchased a couple of oil filled radiator style room heaters for $40 each. Hoping for supplemental heat in the rooms farthest from the fireplace.

I still don't know what to expect this winter but I'm trying to get as prepared as I can be.


----------



## Grisu (Sep 21, 2014)

Are you really sure that wood is dry? It is so light that it looks like it never has been exposed to any sun and no checks on the ends. Do you see any hissing or bubbling when putting it in the stove?

Either your house is really airtight or your insert pulls a lot of air. You can try adding some pipe to the chimney to improve draft. How tall is it? I assume the liner has not been insulated when you did not specify it during the install.


----------



## newburner (Sep 21, 2014)

Am I sure? Not really. I am only going by what the mm says. Everything I've checked reads in the teens on a fresh split. I can't say how accurate the meter is though. I've never had any hissing or bubbling at all.

The chimney is about 18-20'. You're probably right about the insulation.  Unfortunately,  I wouldn't have even known to specify it.


----------



## Grisu (Sep 21, 2014)

newburner said:


> Am I sure? Not really. I am only going by what the mm says. Everything I've checked reads in the teens on a fresh split. I can't say how accurate the meter is though. I've never had any hissing or bubbling at all.



Sounds dry but maybe test your MM on some fresh cut wood. It should read above 40% (which is usually out of range).


> The chimney is about 18-20'. You're probably right about the insulation.  Unfortunately,  I wouldn't have even known to specify it.



That should be enough height. When you turn down the air do you see flames coming off the burn tubes in the top of the firebox? Are there other appliances in your house that may pull air out (bathroom fan, furnace etc.)?


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## newburner (Sep 21, 2014)

Yea. The day I got the meter I stuck it it a piece of green maple and and it max out.

When I turn the air down, I don't think there are any flames coming from the tubes but the fire does seem to separate itself from the wood. The gap between the bottom of the flame and the wood grows until the fire just disappears. If I crack the door, the wood ignites again.

As I said, this issue only happens when all the windows are closed. With the window cracked about an inch,  the fire is robust. (although I don't believe its hot enough at 400° but that could be due to poor thermo placement)


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## Poindexter (Sep 21, 2014)

Couple other things you can do to test a MM.  Lick your finger and set the pins in the puddle.  Meter should max.  

Also, kiln dried 2 by whatever should read about 7% or so if it has been in the house for a while and is visibly dry.


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## begreen (Sep 21, 2014)

Have to agree that visually that doesn't look like well seasoned wood. There is minimal checking on the ends.


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## cookin2night (Sep 22, 2014)

newburner said:


> Here's a question for you guys...
> 
> During my test burns, I'm finding that I'm unable to close the damper more than about half way. If I do, the fire eventually dies out.
> 
> Is my fire not hot enough? I get it rip-roaring and the secondaries are firing like blowtorches.


That happens to me too.  What i realized is you have to get a good bed of hot coals before you can choose the door and use the damper. I have almost the same unit you have but made by us stove.


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## newburner (Sep 22, 2014)

Yea, I'm obviously not a pro but all I have to go on is the mm reading. I can only assume that readings in the 14-19% range is accurate. Aside from looks, I haven't seen any evidence that this wood is green or even semi seasoned. It burns quick and fast when a window is cracked. No hissing or bubbling.

As for not being able to get the stove north of 400°, I am going to assume that my thermo placement is not optimal.


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## newburner (Sep 22, 2014)

Also, look at the pic again. Does the top 2 feet on the rack closest to the camera look dry? Or does it look any different than the rest? I ask because I personally cut and split that wood myself about 7 years ago and its been stored in my garage up until this weekend.


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## Cynnergy (Sep 22, 2014)

How quickly are you turning down the air?  I can easily snuff a hot fire by closing the air too quickly.  You want to do it in steps - it will take a bit to learn your specific stove, but on my stove I start by closing it half after it gets going good, and then about 1/8 every 5-10 min or so.  I can't close my air totally off unless I have a full load - even with 3/4 of a load I need to keep it a bit open to keep from snuffing it.

No idea if this is the issue but I thought it might be another thing to try if you're not already doing it.


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## begreen (Sep 23, 2014)

newburner said:


> Also, look at the pic again. Does the top 2 feet on the rack closest to the camera look dry? Or does it look any different than the rest? I ask because I personally cut and split that wood myself about 7 years ago and its been stored in my garage up until this weekend.



We'll I'm going to assume that 7 yrs drying in the garage is plenty enough to dry out almost anything. My wood greys on the ends and checks with just a year or so in the elements. That was what I was looking for.


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## hoot (Sep 23, 2014)

When I first started burning in a wood stove after buying an insert, I had a wall in my garage stacked with sweet gum and maple that had been there for at least 2-3 years. It was so dry I could not control the stove. Ended up keeping pieces of green wood on hand and once the fire started going out of control I'd throw a piece of green in there and she would settle right down. Now I have the opposite problem LOL. Hard to keep seasoned wood on hand.


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## newburner (Sep 23, 2014)

Thanks begreen. Yea, being a newb, I was wondering if there was something I was missing visually as they appear to look the same to my uneducated eye.

I'm going to try to find a smaller thermometer. The Rutland is so big that it doesn't sit flat on the surface. As you can see, the left side of the thermo is "propped up" on the inserts side trim. Im thinking that may reduce the reading a bit. It burns inside the "good zone" but I feel it should be a bit hotter. My manual says maximum of 840°. Based on what I've read here, I should try to get it to at least 600° or so? Or would that be excessive given the small size of the unit?

View attachment 139301


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## hoot (Sep 23, 2014)

Inserts are a bugger to get a decent thermometer fit. I ended up installing a thermocouple and bought a cheap PID controller and hooked it up permanently
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=83

I might have $75 total in this.


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## begreen (Sep 23, 2014)

newburner said:


> Thanks begreen. Yea, being a newb, I was wondering if there was something I was missing visually as they appear to look the same to my uneducated eye.
> 
> I'm going to try to find a smaller thermometer. The Rutland is so big that it doesn't sit flat on the surface. As you can see, the left side of the thermo is "propped up" on the inserts side trim. Im thinking that may reduce the reading a bit. It burns inside the "good zone" but I feel it should be a bit hotter. My manual says maximum of 840°. Based on what I've read here, I should try to get it to at least 600° or so? Or would that be excessive given the small size of the unit?
> 
> View attachment 139301



Drolet (SBI) makes a smaller round one and so does Condar.


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## cookin2night (Sep 23, 2014)

I put my thermometer right inside the firebox.


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## begreen (Sep 23, 2014)

cookin2night said:


> I put my thermometer right inside the firebox.



Inside??


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## newburner (Sep 23, 2014)

cookin2night said:


> I put my thermometer right inside the firebox.


Funny you mentioned that. I considered asking here if that was an option but I didn't want to sound crazy. (In case I haven't sounded crazy yet) 

There is a perfect place, a ledge just inside the box at the bottom of the glass that I thought was perfect for a thermo. Have you had any issues with placement inside the box? I guess I can try it. After all. The thermo only cost $11.


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## begreen (Sep 23, 2014)

Yes, besides reaching temps that would be frequently outside of the range of the thermometer and rendering it shortly useless, the firebox temps are not necessarily directly related to the stove top temp. Also, I doubt that the paint would stand up long to the firebox temps and you would be sure to knock it more than once when loading the stove. The thermocouple idea is better if you want accurate temps.


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## newburner (Sep 23, 2014)

Thanks begreen. I did have concerns about knocking it around. Is the thermocouple something someone can do with minimal experience in these matters?


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## hoot (Sep 23, 2014)

newburner said:


> Thanks begreen. I did have concerns about knocking it around. Is the thermocouple something someone can do with minimal experience in these matters?



Yes if you have a little mechanical and electrical abilities. I made the little bracket out of a Stanley hardware bracket for woodwork. I drilled and tapped the top of the stove after calling Hearthstone who said it's fine.
The thermocouple is an off the shelf unit and the PID box also. I hard wired the unit with a fuse to the stoves fan electrical supply.


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## prezes13 (Sep 23, 2014)

Hoot this is pretty cool.  I am thinking about doing the same only difference is I would love to hook up two probes one for top stove another for a flue temp.  Wonder if they make a PID box which you can hook up two probes to.


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## hoot (Sep 23, 2014)

First of all, they now make one the runs on 12VDC. Mine is 110V. 12V is safer with less electrical code issues for installation. You only need to run it off a 12V adapter or even a battery.
Looks like you would need two. Just stack them.

This is what I bought from them. That was the 110 V unit. If I was to buy today I would get the 12V unit. (SYL-1612B)

If you want to monitor two places get two of each. Just over $100

If you want to get fancy get one with a built in alarm. You can set it to go off at a given temperature.



K Type Thermocouple (6 ft. cable) English thread
Item# TC-K6
$6.85

Universal 1/32 DIN PID Temperature Controller
Item# SYL-1512A
$36.95

*Subtotal*$43.80 USD
Shipping and handling$8.24 USD
Total$52.04 USD
Payment$52.04 USD


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## prezes13 (Sep 23, 2014)

Thanks.  I will call Auber and ask them for set.


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## derbydude (Sep 23, 2014)

Enzo's Dad said:


> I dont Know About Mass, but In Ct there are alot of state subsidised programs to replace an old boiler. They offer financing rebates if you go with any energy star. I may get a heat pump for Domestic Hot water .....perfect for you wet basement since they act as a de-humidifier.



Is that still true? I thought most rebates ended in 2013.
Do you know if I keep the old boiler, but add a wood/pellet insert, I can still get a rebate?


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## cookin2night (Sep 23, 2014)

begreen said:


> Yes, besides reaching temps that would be frequently outside of the range of the thermometer and rendering it shortly useless, the firebox temps are not necessarily directly related to the stove top temp. Also, I doubt that the paint would stand up long to the firebox temps and you would be sure to knock it more than once when loading the stove. The thermocouple idea is better if you want accurate temps.


My reasoning for doing this is that the thermometer is not directly on the fire. So far it gives me readings in the optimal range and the living rooms feels accordingly to the range that the optimal temperature on the thermometer reads . The temperature reads around 400 to 500 degrees and the room is nice and toasty.  Subsequently  i have a stove in my kitchen and the temperature reading on the same thermometer doesn't get nearly as high but it still feels nice and toasty.


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## cookin2night (Sep 23, 2014)

newburner said:


> Funny you mentioned that. I considered asking here if that was an option but I didn't want to sound crazy. (In case I haven't sounded crazy yet)
> 
> There is a perfect place, a ledge just inside the box at the bottom of the glass that I thought was perfect for a thermo. Have you had any issues with placement inside the box? I guess I can try it. After all. The thermo only cost $11.


I put mine on the bottom lip of the stove.  When it's burning bright i can see it clearly and when it reads in the optimal temperature the room also feels nice and toasty.  I have made about a half dozen fires so far.  I suppose over time it could get dirty but i don't think it would get ruined if you maintain the fire at the optimal temperature.


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## jimdrea (Sep 23, 2014)

If you are a NSTAR customer like me you can get a free energy assessment  from next step living. www.nextstepling.com. They will come into home due an assessment replace for free all your old light bulbs and determine your energy needs. They have low interest loans to help you replace that boiler. Thats what I would do. I know money is tight for you but take their loans and pay the minimum. Having a good furnace will give  you piece of mind and you can still burn with your insert to keep the oil bill down.   Last year I installed an insert a Napoleon 1402 and I had significant savings. I used next step in my home. They suggested  to add insulation to major portions of my house,I took their advice and did the work myself. Their phone number is 866-867-8729


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## hoot (Sep 23, 2014)

cookin2night said:


> I put mine on the bottom lip of the stove.  When it's burning bright i can see it clearly and when it reads in the optimal temperature the room also feels nice and toasty.  I have made about a half dozen fires so far.  I suppose over time it could get dirty but i don't think it would get ruined if you maintain the fire at the optimal temperature.



The correct place to monitor stove temperature is closest to where the damage can get done due to overfiring. That would be on the top side.

As an example, here are the instructions for a Hearthstone Equinox Free Standing stove..



> BURN RATE
> HIGH BURN: Fully load the firebox with wood on a bed of hot coals or on an actively flaming fire and fully open the primary air control by moving it all the way to the left, away from the ash lip. A high burn rate once or twice a day to heat the stovepipe and chimney fully, will help minimize creosote accumulation. Temperatures of top center stone near flue collar should be in the 500-600 degrees F range.



For my Hearthstone Clydesdale fireplace insert the instructions are..


> After you have attained a high burn rate, monitor the
> stove temperatures frequently to ensure that the
> stove is not over-fired. The surface temperature on
> top front of the insert (firebox body under grill) should
> ...


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## cookin2night (Sep 23, 2014)

hoot said:


> The correct place to monitor stove temperature is closest to where the damage can get done due to overfiring. That would be on the top side.
> 
> As an example, here are the instructions for a Hearthstone Equinox Free Standing stove..


But I have the same problem as newburner in that there is not enough space to place it flat against the surface of the insert.


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## hoot (Sep 23, 2014)

And that is why I went the thermocouple route. Personally I think the stove manufacturers should design something to help this situation out.


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## cookin2night (Sep 23, 2014)

Did you modify the insert to attach the couple?


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## hoot (Sep 23, 2014)

Yes   I  drilled and tapped a hole in the top to fasten the home made bracket. The tip of the thermocouple only touches the top.


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## Grisu (Sep 23, 2014)

cookin2night said:


> But I have the same problem as newburner in that there is not enough space to place it flat against the surface of the insert.



I use an infrared thermometer. Also helpful at other places in the house. Was just $30 from Harbor Freight although your hardware store or Ebay/Amazon will surely carry one, too.


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## ddahlgren (Sep 24, 2014)

cookin2night said:


> My reasoning for doing this is that the thermometer is not directly on the fire. So far it gives me readings in the optimal range and the living rooms feels accordingly to the range that the optimal temperature on the thermometer reads . The temperature reads around 400 to 500 degrees and the room is nice and toasty.  Subsequently  i have a stove in my kitchen and the temperature reading on the same thermometer doesn't get nearly as high but it still feels nice and toasty.


 
Your kitchen stove can be putting out more heat yet read cooler. It is a matter of room temperature, surface area of the stove and heat transfer from stove to room air efficiency. Take a look at this link.
http://mb-soft.com/public3/woodstov.html


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## newburner (Sep 24, 2014)

Latest test fire info:

Last night temps were mid 40's. Started the fire at 7:30pm using 3 bio bricks and added 2 splits a half hour later. 

Thermo still peaked at only 400° after an hour so I decided to put it in the box just to see. Once in the box, temps peaked at 700°. So I will assume that the real stove top temp was ~550? 

By 9:30pm the flames were almost gone. 10:30 saw a red hot coal bed. Temps were still ~550° and the fan was blowing plenty of heat.

Unfortunately, according to my notes on previous tests, I did not see ANY increase in either temp (measured outside the box) or longevity of flames using the bio bricks. I will increase the number of bricks used on the next test. I really want to get this right and feel confident about what I'm doing before the cold weather sets in.


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## derbydude (Sep 24, 2014)

newburner said:


> Latest test fire info:
> 
> Last night temps were mid 40's. Started the fire at 7:30pm using 3 bio bricks and added 2 splits a half hour later.
> 
> ...



You have to pack the bricks tight exposing as little surface as possible.


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## newburner (Sep 24, 2014)

derbydude said:


> You have to pack the bricks tight exposing as little surface as possible.


Yes. That's what I did. Theres not much packing you can do with only 3 bricks though.


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## HotCoals (Sep 24, 2014)

newburner said:


> Yes. That's what I did. Theres not much packing you can do with only 3 bricks though.


How much does each brick weigh? There are diff sizes so I'm not sure how much weight wise you put in.
On another note after a stove has a nice coal bed the stove will burn better. Give it a day or 2 and you will see a diff especially when the outside temps are below freezing.


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## newburner (Sep 24, 2014)

Good point and one that I had not considered. Thank you.

Each brick weighs 2lbs.

I am expecting better results with each test. I'm just heeding the advice of others by starting small with 2-3 bricks. My next test will be with 6.


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## cookin2night (Sep 24, 2014)

What I don't understand is how can you get an accurate reading from the top of an insert when the return is on the top?


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## HotCoals (Sep 24, 2014)

newburner said:


> Good point and one that I had not considered. Thank you.
> 
> Each brick weighs 2lbs.
> 
> I am expecting better results with each test. I'm just heeding the advice of others by starting small with 2-3 bricks. My next test will be with 6.



Well the bricks will eliminate the question of dryness for sure.
I have burned some over the last few years with varying results.
Overall they work great but pricey.

I just picked up a ton of them from TSC that were on sale for 3.00 for 20lbs,3 blocks in a package. I like the bigger blocks.

When I buy my fire wood from a guy down the road I haul it home in my trailer which is 4x8.5 with 16" sides. If I stack the wood in it holds exactly one face cord or has most say it 1/3a cord.
Well I hauled home 1 ton of those bricks in a single trip with that same trailer and it was filled to the top the same has a face cord of wood.
I know that the bricks stacked in the trailer have ways less air space then the wood but I was surprised that a ton of bricks took the same space as a face cord.
The brick people seem to always say that their bricks take up half the space but with these it only takes up 1/3 the space.

Thinking ahead it seems that the 300 I just spent on these will not really be very cost effective.

If I burn 60lbs in a 24/hour period that will be 9 bucks a day. 9 bucks a day times 30 is 270 a month and that is 1800 lbs worth,almost the whole ton.
So at that I can only load 30lbs twice a day in my stove.

With wood two loads of 60lbs each will carry me the24 hours no prob even in the coldest weather.

Now the bricks are supposed to pack like 1.5 times the heat of wood per pound ,but I doubt it other wise instead of 120lbs of bricks for a day 60lbs should do it and I know it won't but we shall see.

Here is what I bought a ton of..sorry for the long post but i got to thinking out loud and ran with it..lol.






can't seem to link pic will post one latter but there the Redstone 20 lb package with just 3 bigger bricks in it.


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## newburner (Sep 24, 2014)

Yes, I saw them at TSC the other day. I wasn't impressed with what they had. It looked like they were left out in the rain because they were all swollen and falling apart. Big piles of sawdust around every pallet.


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## ddahlgren (Sep 24, 2014)

newburner said:


> Latest test fire info:
> 
> Last night temps were mid 40's. Started the fire at 7:30pm using 3 bio bricks and added 2 splits a half hour later.
> 
> ...


 
I have burned well over 1000 lbs of them and packing tight they will last a long time but put out little in the way of heat. I have put as many as 7 in a 1.2 cu. ft. stove and put 3 front rear 2 left right and 2 front back these are the size of a red brick more ore less. I left 1 inch between them as they swell up when burning and will just smolder if not room to expand. The amount that goes in is dependent on house temperature and outside temperature wind etc. Sometimes 5 and omit the top 2 bricks, 3 is pretty much useless. 7 is around 63000 btu. and 5 45000 btu. that will keep secondarys lit for quite a while 5 gets the little stove to around 600 for a couple of hours the 500 dropping off to 450 to 400 while in the coaling stage. 7 gets to 700 stove top 2 hours of secondarys for 2 hours and cruise at 550 to 500 for quite a while then the same coaling temps but for a longer time. The downside is you really can't add much until they burn down and just a few make barely enough heat to keep the secondarys going very long if at all. I go by the directions on the ones I buy locally and the tell you to give them a bit of room to expand. You need surface area to burn and packing tight I have found makes for a very cool slow burning fire that sends too much up the stack as you can not make a decent draft or enough to really close the air down and make some heat. They do burn very clean though. When you use cordwood there is a lot of gaps for air that will allow a surface to burn and offer heat.


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## ddahlgren (Sep 24, 2014)

I just want to add they are a good solution to take a chill off but a poor one for 24/7 quick heat when you need it and cheap for that 24/7 they are a waste of time. Try it my way for fun and do a proportional load for the size of your house and stove and see what you get. No snese wasting the good stuff only to open windows for 4 hours to cool the house down.


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## newburner (Sep 24, 2014)

ddahlgen,

Yes, 3 was pretty useless. I was going on advice to start small. I'll ramp it up next time. I'm thinking of a tight layer of 6 on the bottom topped with a split or two on top. 

I am able to put 14 in that little box but I can't afford that unless they burn 8-10 hours. I don't see that happening though.


----------



## jotul? (Sep 24, 2014)

I just bought a ton of those at TSC myself. I wanted Eco Brick brand but the manager said they are only carrying their Redstone bricks now. She claimed that they are made by Eco Brick, just larger - three in a pack instead of six.


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## begreen (Sep 24, 2014)

An infrared thermometer is a lot handier as long as one can get a beam on the actual stove top. Inserts and stoves that have a fully convective top are sometimes more challenging in this regard. The other advantage of using the Auber unit with a thermocouple is that it has high/low temp alarms you can set. This is very useful, particularly on startups and reloads. Busy people tend to get involved and forget to turn the air down if they are not watching the time. I like to carry a timer with me (cell phone works well) and set it to 7 or 10 minutes.


----------



## begreen (Sep 24, 2014)

newburner said:


> Latest test fire info:
> 
> Last night temps were mid 40's. Started the fire at 7:30pm using 3 bio bricks and added 2 splits a half hour later.
> 
> ...



3 BioBricks is a very small fire. I burnt 13-15 at a time. You must follow their instructions to do this! 
http://originalbiobricks.com/howtoburn
https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/biobricks/


----------



## newburner (Sep 24, 2014)

begreen said:


> 3 BioBricks is a very small fire.



Agreed and I knew it would be. I was following the advice of others to start small until I am familiar with how they burn.

Would you think I'd be better served by skipping the intermediate step and going to a box full? From what I've seen from 3, I don't expect to be overwhelmed with 6.


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## begreen (Sep 24, 2014)

There is a point where multiple bricks will combust too quickly if they are not stacked loosely and incorrectly. I would follow the mfg instructions if the intent is burn a sustained heating fire.


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## HotCoals (Sep 24, 2014)

jotul? said:


> I just bought a ton of those at TSC myself. I wanted Eco Brick brand but the manager said they are only carrying their Redstone bricks now. *She claimed that they are made by Eco Brick, just larger - three in a pack instead of six.*



Thats what I was told also.
Did you notice on the package it says 8,800 btu's per pound but yet it also says same output as coal . They are a little mixed up..lol.
They also say at their site that a ton = a cord of hard wood,I have a hard time buying into that more so know that I put a ton in my trailer where a face cord of wood  fits.
They  also claim on the label that7-8 lbs of brick= 14 lbs of wood. I question that also but will know more when I get serious when the cold gets here.


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## cookin2night (Sep 24, 2014)

begreen said:


> An infrared thermometer is a lot handier as long as one can get a beam on the actual stove top. Inserts and stoves that have a fully convective top are sometimes more challenging in this regard. The other advantage of using the Auber unit with a thermocouple is that it has high/low temp alarms you can set. This is very useful, particularly on startups and reloads. Busy people tend to get involved and forget to turn the air down if they are not watching the time. I like to carry a timer with me (cell phone works well) and set it to 7 or 10 minutes.


Those laser thermometers are pretty awesome. I used my father in laws the other day.  Checked the floor vs.  Ceiling of every room.  Checked the windows.  Checked the doors.  Very good for finding heat loss.  I'm going out to buy one this weekend.


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## cookin2night (Sep 24, 2014)

I would say that a laser thermometer might be the best tool one could carry when trying to make your home as warn as possible.


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## ddahlgren (Sep 25, 2014)

newburner said:


> ddahlgen,
> 
> Yes, 3 was pretty useless. I was going on advice to start small. I'll ramp it up next time. I'm thinking of a tight layer of 6 on the bottom topped with a split or two on top.
> 
> I am able to put 14 in that little box but I can't afford that unless they burn 8-10 hours. I don't see that happening though.


 
 Tight is not your friend you need surface area to have fire and heat. Ever see cordwood burn from the inside out? Didn't think so plus they need room to swell when burning or just turn to coals at best and no heat.  All those that say don't put in more than a few and pack them tight are just a bunch of nervous old women afraid to get a good fire in the stove and get it hot. I have no idea what the problem is with a stovetop at 650 to 700 is. Maybe my Avalon Pendleton while small is very robust in construction. Maybe it is years of working on turbocharged racing engines that if the exhaust lights off to 1500 to 1700 and bright red barely catches my attention any more 700 seems very tame to be honest well within the ability or steel to deal with it unless very poorly designed.  The little Pendleton uses firebrick for the baffle so not going to warp that or crack it either. 700 on the top is so far from hurting steel even the cheapest 1018 low carbon steel that is silly to worry about.


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## hoot (Sep 25, 2014)

cookin2night said:


> Those laser thermometers are pretty awesome. I used my father in laws the other day.  Checked the floor vs.  Ceiling of every room.  Checked the windows.  Checked the doors.  Very good for finding heat loss.  I'm going out to buy one this weekend.



I used a laser thermometer in the beginning. Problem is there is a cast iron grate on top and it's not easy to get a reading through the slots. That is why I finally went with the thermocouple.


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## HotCoals (Sep 25, 2014)

Right now I have the thought that a small cat stove might work better for heat bricks better then a large one.


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## cookin2night (Sep 25, 2014)

HotCoals said:


> Right now I have the thought that a small cat stove might work better for heat bricks better then a large one.


I have a small cat stove in addition to an insert,  vermont castings dutch west. How can you tell when it's putting out efficient heat?  Is it partly feel?


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## newburner (Sep 26, 2014)

Success.

A layer of 6 Bio Bricks and 1 split on top. Best fire to date. There is flame in every corner of the box and we're cruising along at 650°.

Wife and kids have evacuated to the far end of the house.

Here's a pic 1 and a half hours in. Air is 75% closed.


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## newburner (Sep 26, 2014)

About 3 hours in and still ~600°. Substantial flames and a mound of glowing coals. I should see 4 hours before the last of the flames go out.


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## newburner (Sep 27, 2014)

Here's what I had at the 4 hour mark. All in all, I'm quite satisfied.


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## HotCoals (Sep 27, 2014)

Did you have to turn up the intake air towards the 4 hour mark?


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## newburner (Sep 27, 2014)

Yea I increased it to 50% right before I took that pic.


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## HotCoals (Sep 28, 2014)

newburner said:


> Yea I increased it to 50% right before I took that pic.



Thought maybe.

In the dead of winter I can get 12 hours easy off my BK with a 2/3 load of hardwood. Then if I open the air way up I can get another 3 hours of good heat plus that helps with burning the coals down. Sometimes I even sprinkle some pellets onto the coals to get some hot flame during that process.Two or three cup fulls.


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## newburner (Sep 28, 2014)

I think 12 hours out of my little stove would be a pipe dream but, are you saying that I can increase the burn time 25% by opening up the air at the end of the burn?


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## HotCoals (Sep 28, 2014)

newburner said:


> I think 12 hours out of my little stove would be a pipe dream but, are you saying that I can increase the burn time 25% by opening up the air at the end of the burn?



I'm just saying that sometimes I can. Your millage may very lol. Cheers!


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## begreen (Sep 28, 2014)

Comparing a big BK cat to a small Century is apples to oranges. They are two different animals. The mileage will almost always vary.


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## HotCoals (Sep 28, 2014)

begreen said:


> Comparing a big BK cat to a small Century is apples to oranges. They are two different animals. The mileage will almost always vary.


True but maybe he will increase his burn time by maybe up to 25% ...thinking about it 4 extra hours with the air all the way may be a little high..but I know I can get 3 extra hours most times. I also may stir up things with the poker and add some pellets also once or twice during that time.


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## newburner (Oct 4, 2014)

Update:

Well my wood supplier has vanished after 2 cords. I guess he is either out of wood or he no longer wants to sell me wood for $175/cord. Im not sure which since he wont return my calls. Either way, I'm guessing I'm about 2 cords short of what I "think" I'll need to get through the winter. Since everyone else around here is selling cords for $250 or more (and you never know what you're going to get) I guess we will be redirecting our financial resources to bio bricks from here on out.

So as it stands right now, I have 2 cord and a half ton of bricks. I'll be getting more bricks each week until I can't get any more.


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## NewStoveGuy (Oct 4, 2014)

newburner said:


> Update:
> 
> Well my wood supplier has vanished after 2 cords. I guess he is either out of wood or he no longer wants to sell me wood for $175/cord. Im not sure which since he wont return my calls. Either way, I'm guessing I'm about 2 cords short of what I "think" I'll need to get through the winter. Since everyone else around here is selling cords for $250 or more (and you never know what you're going to get) I guess we will be redirecting our financial resources to bio bricks from here on out.
> 
> So as it stands right now, I have 2 cord and a half ton of bricks. I'll be getting more bricks each week until I can't get any more.



I'm in the same boat. My guy vanished after selling me 2 cords @ $100/cord for 6mo-1yr oak, even though I paid him for another half cord that I haven't received.  Can't complain too much given the price and the fact that 1.5 cords of the 2 was metering at 20-25% two months ago.  I figure I have 3.25 laid up with the scrounging I've done but 1 of those is  definitely 3 handle on the meter. Have been thinking I'd need 2.5-3 for the season so I'm still short. There's plenty of "seasoned" wood on CL near me for $200-275/cord, but I don't need any more wet wood.


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## begreen (Oct 4, 2014)

It helps to get a year or two ahead. If buying. April 1st should be the cut off date. Folks buying now are out of luck unless they have a kiln dried wood seller nearby. If buying now, consider getting ash if available and avoid oak and hickory. Truly seasoned pine, fir or hemlock is ok too. But before letting them dump it off the truck take some random splits off and resplit them, then test for moisture before accepting the load.


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## newburner (Oct 4, 2014)

begreen said:


> It helps to get a year or two ahead.



Believe me, I'm trying. Very difficult to do in first year. Especially on a tight budget.


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## begreen (Oct 4, 2014)

I hear you. It is indeed. If impossible, get some high quality compressed fuel to mix in with the wood.


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## Oil2Wood (Oct 13, 2014)

First year burning also.  I bought my Hampton HI 300 in March.  We paid like the 3200 bucks with the install.  Like everyone else, I don't trust the seasoned wood guys, though I bought what I was told was a cord in march for 185$, and probably had another 1/2 cord or so from wood I cut stacked from Storm Sandy.  Think I will rely on pressed blocks.

I tried Bio Bricks and Hot Bricks I bought at BT Enterprises in Bristol, CT and preferred the Hot Bricks.  Today I bought some factory seconds/slightly damaged bricks directly from the Hot Bricks Company for 185$ a ton.  A ton of the Hot Bricks at BT is 240$, which I also bought.  So far I've spent 610$, on wood/bricks and we will see how far we get.  My wife and I did the math on the oil last year and it was almost six grand for the year.

I invested in the stove because we were spending 575, to as much 685 every 4.5-6 weeks, in the winter.  With a three and four year old and perpetually cold wife, having a cold house is just not an option.

I plan on breaking down some pallets as well.  My brother in law heats exclusively with pallets which I think is a little crazy but their house is never cold.

Like the OP I am in the learning phase of burning, and I did not mean to hijack this thread.  I hope people find the info on factory second bricks useful.  I found their ad on craig's list, and they just ask that you call ahead.

I've been reading the forum regularly since before I bought my stove insert, and feel like this place is a great resource for a newbie.  Struck up a conversation with an aquiantance who heats excusively from wood and is a scrounger.  Told me he  he will help me get started next spring and even offered to bring his heavy duty splitter.
We will see if that materializes.

I don't think I will be oil free ever, but If I can cut that oil bill in half, I will get a return on investment in short time.


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## hoot (Oct 14, 2014)

$6000 for oil heat is nuts. Back in 2008 I think we were at around $3500 for the season heating with propane.... 3300 sf house.
I put the two wood stoves in and it dropped to almost zero cost... just labor and fuel (not counting payback). Since then though I purchased the 500 gal underground tank from Amerigas so I own it. Today I can purchase propane for $1.60 gal delivered. Prices have come down on LP and owning the tank allows you to shop. So for around $700 I can fill the tank and only need a second filling during the year if I don't burn wood. Now we don't even burn wood during the shoulder seasons much. Just for fun. That saves us the wood for the cold part of winter and we get away with less than $1000 for the whole year. The stoves and installs have already paid for themselves over the last couple of years.


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## prezes13 (Oct 14, 2014)

I heated my house last year well under a $1000 and at 72 degrees my wife would complain it's cold.  If I had more and better wood it would have been even less.


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## Donk4kyv (Oct 15, 2014)

Doug MacIVER said:


> pick up every pallet you see. free heat. scrounge around industrial parks, with permission to take any extra pallets. don't be afraid of pine, just doesn't last as long as harder wood. if you can afford canawick, eco bricks, ect, @ $275-300/ton do so. don't waste green wood, wait til it is dry. good luck



I  think it's a waste to burn pallets.  I  prefer to use them to lay on the ground before stacking the wood. Keeps the bottom layer of wood on the pile from getting soaked with moisture, rotting, etc.  Usually have to  replace them every 2-3 years. The best ones to use, if you can find them, are made out of some kind of plastic material and won't rot.


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## spirilis (Oct 15, 2014)

I burn the local version of biobricks exclusively but I'm not doing 24/7 burns... It would be hard to pull that off IMO.  The small 2lb bricks make wonderful shoulder season or quick fires, but the larger 7-8lb blocks are better for "endurance" fires so long as they're close together but not packed tight.  I try to have a mix of them, more of the 2lb bricks since we do shorter fires more often.

My pattern for night fires is 2lb bricks in a loose pyramid to get the stove hot, then on the reload (250-300F stovetop) load 2-4 big blocks, manage the air for 30min to turn it down, then go to bed.


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## Doug MacIVER (Oct 17, 2014)

Donk4kyv said:


> I  think it's a waste to burn pallets.  I  prefer to use them to lay on the ground before stacking the wood. Keeps the bottom layer of wood on the pile from getting soaked with moisture, rotting, etc.  Usually have to  replace them every 2-3 years. The best ones to use, if you can find them, are made out of some kind of plastic material and won't rot.


waste? when business was business years ago, I would cut up as much as a cord a year of quality dry hardwood. store it in my garage. pellet companies pickup large volume customers excess pallets. waste.


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## lml999 (Oct 19, 2014)

newburner said:


> If I can get by this winter on 4 cord, I'll have spent $700 on fuel as opposed to the $1,800+ I spent every year on oil.



Welcome!

If you've been spending $1,800 a year on oil in Mass, you either have a pretty tight house and/or you're pretty frugal with the thermometer. 4 cords seems reasonable, particularly if you spend some time studying optimal burning habits. You don't need to keep the stove loaded and burning hot all the time...build it, let it burn down, rebuild it, let it burn down... (not out). When I was first burning, I went through a lot more wood!


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## weatherguy (Oct 19, 2014)

lml999 said:


> Welcome!
> 
> If you've been spending $1,800 a year on oil in Mass, you either have a pretty tight house and/or you're pretty frugal with the thermometer. 4 cords seems reasonable, particularly if you spend some time studying optimal burning habits. You don't need to keep the stove loaded and burning hot all the time...build it, let it burn down, rebuild it, let it burn down... (not out). When I was first burning, I went through a lot more wood!


Yeah, $1800 Isnt bad, I was spending about $4,000 til I got my stove, now I spend about $1,500. This year I got a bigger stove and hope to cut that $1,500 down even more.


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## newburner (Oct 19, 2014)

lml999 said:


> If you've been spending $1,800 a year on oil in Mass, you either have a pretty tight house and/or you're pretty frugal with the thermometer.



Its a bit of both. As I said earlier in this thread, the wife kept the thermostat at 62° and apparently, my home is tighter than I thought because I can't get a good burn going unless I crack a window. $1,800 may not seem like much but when its $1,500 more than you have, its a lot!

Even with the savings, I'm still a bit uneasy as we approach winter with no boiler. I'm up to 2.25 cords after my "first score" (details in another thread) and I've managed to put together a ton of biobricks.


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## cookin2night (Oct 19, 2014)

I haven't used any propane for heating so far.  A stove and an insert going opposite ends of each other.  Outside 34 degrees downstairs 78, upstairs 69.


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## newburner (Nov 4, 2014)

Here's my early November update:

The overnight lows are starting to slide down into the 20-30° range so we are beginning to get a bit more practice using our insert. Mostly, we've lit it first thing in the morning to take the chill off then let it die out without reloading.

Last night we decided to experiment. Forecast lows were supposed to be ~25° so we figured we'd try to load it up and start it before going to bed at 11:30. To my surprise, there was plenty of red coals to restart the fire at 6:30am. The house temp was still at 67°.

On the wood front, I was able to pickup this load of pine for free. Its been cut over a year.


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## Grisu (Nov 4, 2014)

To have enough hot coals for a restart after 7 hours should not be that surprising but more the norm.

Split those pine pieces in half and check their moisture content. They probably dried some through the ends but may not be ready for this winter.


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## newburner (Nov 4, 2014)

Thanks for the reassurance Grisu. For me, it was surprising. After reading much on here, I never expected my little firebox to hold red coals that long. Especially since a "full load" is only 2 splits. [emoji2]  If that's the norm, I'll be very happy.

Yes, I'll be splitting that pine this weekend. I'm curious what the MC will be.


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## Grisu (Nov 4, 2014)

My bad. I thought it had a 2 cu ft firebox but it looks to be more like 1.4. Yep, 7 hours is pretty good then. Are you trying to get through the winter just with the insert? That will be a real challenge. Good luck.


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## newburner (Nov 4, 2014)

Yes. As the topic states, I've been forced into burning wood for primary heat. I know it'll be a huge challenge but I'm growing more confident as we move through the season.

Just to re-hash, our oil furnace crapped the bed this summer. It literally disintegrated due to rust. We have very little money to spend and replacing it was not an option. We opted to take advantage of our existing fireplace by installing an insert. I got pretty much the only one we could afford, the Century cw2500. It took maxing out our credit cards to buy and install. 

When I started this thread, I had huge reservations. I thought we'd freeze to death this winter but as I gain more experience with the insert and learn what it can do and what it can't, I've become more and more confident.

My wife and I both like our home on the cooler side. Usually around 62°. So far, this little insert has kept the house way hotter than we are comfortable with. Hopefully, that will continue once the real cold weather arrives.


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## cookin2night (Nov 4, 2014)

newburner said:


> Yes. As the topic states, I've been forced into burning wood for primary heat. I know it'll be a huge challenge but I'm growing more confident as we move through the season.
> 
> Just to re-hash, our oil furnace crapped the bed this summer. It literally disintegrated due to rust. We have very little money to spend and replacing it was not an option. We opted to take advantage of our existing fireplace by installing an insert. I got pretty much the only one we could afford, the Century cw2500. It took maxing out our credit cards to buy and install.
> 
> ...


Something else to keep you warm could be electric radiators.  We have a "propain" boiler and in order to keep from blowing through it we use a stove,  insert,  and 3 electric plug in radiators in the bed rooms.  My electric has only gone up 20 over the summer per month and I burn all free wood from Craigslist and Facebook. Good luck!


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## newburner (Nov 4, 2014)

Yes, thanks cookin. We did end up getting 2 of those oil filled electric radiator heaters. LOVE THEM! We put one in our room and one in my daughters room for overnight heat. We set them to 600w (lowest wattage setting) and use the lowest thermostat setting. So far they are keeping the rooms warmer than our oil did.

I'm going to try and get a couple more for supplemental heating in rooms far from the insert.

I'm checking craigslist multiple times a day for free wood too.


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## Grisu (Nov 4, 2014)

Take a look at electric blankets. They use an almost negligible amount of electricity per night and will keep you warm and toasty. My wife loves hers.


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## hoverwheel (Nov 4, 2014)

Grisu said:


> Take a look at electric blankets. They use an almost negligible amount of electricity per night and will keep you warm and toasty. My wife loves hers.


I'll second that, but we like the heated mattress pads better. Same thing but goes under your sheets. Of course the room air is still cold, but you'll be toasty.


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## newburner (Nov 4, 2014)

Grisu said:


> Split those pine pieces in half and check their moisture content. They probably dried some through the ends but may not be ready for this winter.



I split about a dozen of them today. They ranged in the 15-19%. Should pine be drier or is that good?


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## Grisu (Nov 4, 2014)

newburner said:


> I split about a dozen of them today. They ranged in the 15-19%. Should pine be drier or is that good?



No, that's good. Should actually be easier to control than pine that is more dry. Be careful when loading the insert full with that stuff. It burns quite differently than hardwood. You may need to turn down the air much sooner than usual.


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## Cynnergy (Nov 4, 2014)

Sounds like you're doing great newburner!  I can't remember, do you have a liner?  Can you keep an eye on the chimney easily?  It sounds like you have some decent wood, but it's always good to keep an eye on the chimney just in case...


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## NJ_Burner08002 (Nov 5, 2014)

newburner said:


> Yes. As the topic states, I've been forced into burning wood for primary heat. I know it'll be a huge challenge but I'm growing more confident as we move through the season.
> 
> Just to re-hash, our oil furnace crapped the bed this summer. It literally disintegrated due to rust. We have very little money to spend and replacing it was not an option. We opted to take advantage of our existing fireplace by installing an insert. I got pretty much the only one we could afford, the Century cw2500. It took maxing out our credit cards to buy and install.
> 
> ...



I just got a cw2500 also and I have to say I am rather pleased.    It certainly heats my first floor.


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## newburner (Nov 6, 2014)

Wow, I love the pine! I threw a couple of splits in tonight just to see. The flame is MUCH different. It looks "softer", fuller, and the flame is a different color. 

Lotsa heat and lotsa flame.


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## DTrain (Nov 8, 2014)

I'm a little late to the party here, but I was in your shoes two seasons ago.  1961 boiler, $3000 in oil in the first year.  I'm starting season three and have 10 cords out there for $1600.  That's almost 3 years worth for half the price of one year with the old boiler.  You'll like the wood heat better.  On year three we find that we are comfortable throwing on a sweater and a blanket in other parts of the house.  But we all like to gather around the stove and watch the fire most of the time.  And i'm likely the 100th guy to say, but keep the number of that wood guy you got!  I got $220 a cord and was thrilled.  $175 is crazy.


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## Grateful11 (Nov 9, 2014)

NJ_Burner08002 said:


> I just got a cw2500 also and I have to say I am rather pleased.    It certainly heats my first floor.



We've been running the same stove for 2 seasons and love it. Anything bigger would probably run us out of our Den ;-)


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## anthonyj124 (Nov 9, 2014)

Massive thread. Not to be all in your business, but regarding your oil boiler, did you research the Mass save program? We just replaced our 26yo oil boiler using mass save and got a $500 rebate and 0% for 7 years on the equipment and install. Great program.


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## BradleyW (Nov 9, 2014)

anthonyj124 said:


> Massive thread. Not to be all in your business, but regarding your oil boiler, did you research the Mass save program? We just replaced our 26yo oil boiler using mass save and got a $500 rebate and 0% for 7 years on the equipment and install. Great program.


The Mass save program was great. I got around $700 to turn in an old Fisher Mama Bear towards a new Jotul. It still cost us a decent chunk, but I couldn't turn down the free money.


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## newburner (Nov 14, 2014)

Yes, looked at mass save but I would still have to buy a boiler.

Rebates have never appealed to me because you still have to spend a huge amount just to get it. After purchase rebates don't help if you can't afford the purchase in the first place.

The 0% is nice but you need good credit.


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## newburner (Nov 15, 2014)

Update:

Passed another test! Yesterday we had our first measurable snowfall (only a couple inches) and the temps managed to reach into the lower 40's. Last night, it dropped to the lower 20's. The coldest overnight temps we've seen since our boiler broke and got the Century for primary heat so I was a bit uneasy about keeping everyone warm enough.

I loaded the little box up with 2 large splits and 2 bio bricks (my favorite configuration) when I went to bed.

I wake up this morning ~6 hours later. The outside temp was 21°. The hearth room was 75° and the furthest room from the insert was 68°

A little too warm for my comfort but it was satisfying to know the heat will be there if needed.

At the risk of sounding redundant, I have to thank everyone here. I would've probably woken to a freezing home had I not found this place.


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## DTrain (Nov 15, 2014)

Congrats... I had the same cold sweats when I started. In the modern world getting satisfaction from something that is normally taken for granted is a big win in my book. Keep up the good work!


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## newburner (Nov 15, 2014)

Thanks DTrain! My new found love of splitting wood with an axe and warming my family with fire almost matches the satisfaction I get when I run a comb through my beard every morning. [emoji91]


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## newburner (Nov 15, 2014)

Got the Lil Century churning out some "free" heat again. Love it! My wife thinks I'm insane because every time I fire it up, I want to share pics with you guys. [emoji15]


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## DTrain (Nov 15, 2014)




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## DTrain (Nov 15, 2014)

I just got the tapatalk jobby for my phone. This could be bad!


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## Kelvin 506 (Nov 15, 2014)

There have been stories in the northeast of wood thieves.  I wonder if these perps primarily use the wood themselves or do they try to resell?  Were the 2 cords delivered in 1 load?  Did the truck have business details?  Just a thought, really.

I din't real through the whole post but I saw where he never returned with cords 3 and 4. 
Someone may have already inquired about the possible impropriety of the seller.  That's my edited disclaimer!


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## newburner (Nov 15, 2014)

I never thought of that Kelvin. I'm not sure what happened to him. I know where he lives and there is very little wood left.

To answer your questions, no, the cords were delivered separately. And no, there were no business details on the truck. Just an old beat up truck.


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## Kelvin 506 (Nov 15, 2014)

I bought a new stove this year too.  I am hopeful that congress extends the tax rebate for efficient stove purchases.  I also read that it may pass in the beginning of 2015 and be retroactive. Keep on the lookout.  I don't think Mass has any rebates or incentives for high efficiency stoves though.


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## newburner (Nov 18, 2014)

Update:

First time temps in the teens this evening. Lil century is cranking along keeping the house 70-72°.  A bit warm but its better than a bit cold.

My anxiety about being warm enough with this insert as primary heat is really subsiding now.


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## cookin2night (Nov 18, 2014)

I have my house cruising at 78. I still haven't turned the boiler on this year!


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## NJ_Burner08002 (Nov 18, 2014)

Congrats to both.


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## NJ_Burner08002 (Nov 18, 2014)

newburner said:


> Update:
> 
> Passed another test! Yesterday we had our first measurable snowfall (only a couple inches) and the temps managed to reach into the lower 40's. Last night, it dropped to the lower 20's. The coldest overnight temps we've seen since our boiler broke and got the Century for primary heat so I was a bit uneasy about keeping everyone warm enough.
> 
> ...




How much do you close the air at night?   I am getting good results about a third open.    Seems to make the insert increase in temp.      About 450.


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## cookin2night (Nov 18, 2014)

Insert is 614, stove is 534, house is 77 almost 78.


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## newburner (Nov 18, 2014)

NJ_Burner08002 said:


> How much do you close the air at night?   I am getting good results about a third open.    Seems to make the insert increase in temp.      About 450.


If I cut it less than half, it goes out. I've only been able to close it 75% once. If I can manage to get it to 50% air without going out, that's where it stays.


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## wenger7446 (Nov 18, 2014)

newburner said:


> If I cut it less than half, it goes out. I've only been able to close it 75% once. If I can manage to get it to 50% air without going out, that's where it stays.



As your wood keeps getting better (lower moister content) the more you can close your air intake.

I almost always run mine 100% closed.

Keep stocking up on wood (think of all the money you are saving over oil)


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## newburner (Nov 18, 2014)

Yea, that's what I'm anticipating. That's why I'm not too worried about it.

Believe me, I'm loving not hearing that boiler kick on all the time


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## cookin2night (Nov 19, 2014)

Do you have a chain saw?  I just scored at least 4 cords from a farm near me of trunks that came down during Sandy.  Check your local farms or large land owners.  You will be surprised.


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## cookin2night (Nov 19, 2014)

Do you have a chain saw?  I just scored at least 4 cords from a farm near me of trunks that came down during Sandy.  Check your local farms or large land owners.  You will be surprised.


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## NJ_Burner08002 (Nov 20, 2014)

newburner said:


> If I cut it less than half, it goes out. I've only been able to close it 75% once. If I can manage to get it to 50% air without going out, that's where it stays.



I have to admit I have been recently able with it 75% closed get a long burn time .     This stove and the learning curve is total trial and error.     I was burning through wood way too fast but now I can use less and get more heat.


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## newburner (Nov 24, 2014)

NJ_Burner08002 said:


> I have to admit I have been recently able with it 75% closed get a long burn time .     This stove and the learning curve is total trial and error.     I was burning through wood way too fast but now I can use less and get more heat.



The Wife gets it shut down to 75%. I can't but she says I'm being impatient. If I shut it down and the fire starts to slow too much and look like it's going out, I open it back up. I guess I need to be a bit more patient and give the fire time to recover.


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## newburner (Nov 29, 2014)

Went down to zero last night. Last load went in about midnight. At 8am the house was still at 62° with enough coals to get the fire going again with minimal effort.

After staying warm during a zero degree night, my worries are now pretty much gone.


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## NJ_Burner08002 (Dec 7, 2014)

You have the fan turned up all the way?     I also have been using my ceiling fan and have been able get the heat where I want it.


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## newburner (Dec 8, 2014)

I usually run the fan on the insert at about 3/4. The ceiling fan and the small fan in the doorway are always on lowest setting.


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## newburner (Dec 31, 2014)

Just a quick update:

Its 9° outside but 72° inside! Couldn't be happier with the little century.

Happy New Year everyone!


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## jatoxico (Jan 1, 2015)

Just caught this thread. Classic Hearth, people helping and working together with fellow burners and internet "neighbors". Good job New Burner and Happy New Year to All!


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## NJ_Burner08002 (Jan 1, 2015)

Yes the Century is doing a great job.    My family room is a consistent 71, kitchen 68 and dining room 66.      My house isn't really laid out for a stove to heat the whole house.    But the first floor is comfortable.


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## NJ_Burner08002 (Jan 1, 2015)

newburner said:


> Just a quick update:
> 
> Its 9° outside but 72° inside! Couldn't be happier with the little century.
> 
> Happy New Year everyone!



How often are you reloading?     It's a shame the century is so small.    I start with a few bricks and 2 splits.     Then every couple hours.


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## newburner (Jan 1, 2015)

We are usually reloading every 2 to 3 hours depending on room temps. The past few days have been pretty cold so it probably been closer to every 2 hours.

Reloads consist of 2 splits of hardwood across the coals then 1 split of pine diagonal across the top. Ignition is usually instant.

For Overnight, we've been putting 2 small hardwood splits across the coals then one of those Redstone fuel blocks (from Tractor Supply) on top of that. Then we put a bio brick on either side of the fuel block. Once that's going pretty good, we can shut the air all the way down and go to bed. That config usually lasts 7-8 hours so there's plenty of coals to re-light in the morning.


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## kennyp2339 (Jan 1, 2015)

My friend just installed a new insert (epa) I brought over 10 redstones last night to try out, He loved them, he was amazed that 4 little bricks gave him a 4 hour hot clean burn, It was the topic of the night.


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## NJ_Burner08002 (Jan 1, 2015)

Nice thing with the Century is that you can shut it all the way down with the bricks and it will still burn.       I think even shut down there is still a nice draft.


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