# Trailblazer Classic 1700.....first burn!



## wryfly (Aug 3, 2009)

Hey yall......anyone have any experience with this stove "Trailblazer Classic 700"??

We've been looking to replace our small old stove and this would fit in nicely.

Thanks!!


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## wryfly (Aug 3, 2009)

it's 24" wide x 16" deep x 25" high....I've attached a picture, though probably didn't do it right 

cool...it did work.  We plan on putting it into our firebox (which is pretty small in itself) until we can afford to get a proper insert installed.

ps....i see your from Maine....I grew up in the County


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## wryfly (Aug 3, 2009)

ahh....good question.  I'll have to find out.


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## wryfly (Aug 3, 2009)

ya I'm sure I'll need to go through it pretty well...replace brick, reseal...etc.  but it looks like a good little stove.  Do you like your larger one??


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## wryfly (Aug 3, 2009)

it's late 90's.....they bought it in '99


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## wryfly (Aug 4, 2009)

....they're asking $175 for it.....too good to be true??


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## Fake coal burner (Aug 4, 2009)

That is the same stove that I pulled out last year. I have the owners manual in front of me and the brochure. It list as a 1700 or 1800 I think the 1800 is with pedestal Good stoves tubes are welded in fire brick on top of baffle. standard size brick. Heated 1100 sq. house soild brick house with single pane windows every 6 feet. No problem for 15 years. The only seals is the glass and door seal. I replaced the door seal once in the 15 years. Used it every day. I also took out the cheap cinter brick and replaced all with clay fire brick. The company is long gone. I don't  think you can go wrong at that price if it is not warped any ware I ran mine at about 350 deg. stove top temp. If epa they are clean burning. Only got about a pint of dry flakes out of flue pipe With good dry seasoned wood.  I still have mine is setting in the shed not being used. Bought a gas coal to replace it last year.


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## wryfly (Aug 4, 2009)

Hey coal burner.......since you have the manual there, could you check something for me?  The height of the stove was given @25".....is this the height from the ground (bottom of legs) or the height of the firebox?

The fireplace that it's going into is only 23" tall so I would need to modify the legs for it to slide in, but if it's the height of the firebox, it won't fit for us.

Thanks.....


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## Fake coal burner (Aug 4, 2009)

wryfly said:
			
		

> Hey coal burner.......since you have the manual there, could you check something for me?  The height of the stove was given @25".....is this the height from the ground (bottom of legs) or the height of the firebox?
> 
> The fireplace that it's going into is only 23" tall so I would need to modify the legs for it to slide in, but if it's the height of the firebox, it won't fit for us.
> 
> Thanks.....


 They don't post any spc. in the owner manual. I took the measurements from my Trail blazer 1700 .  Do you have a ash clean out in your fire place? I had one in mine and did a modification on the stove to clean ash out with out shoveling. Made it easer to clean and less ash dust in the house.


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## wryfly (Aug 4, 2009)

great visual there Burner......when I get home this evening, I'll post the sketch I have of our fireplace.....

thanks!


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## Fake coal burner (Aug 4, 2009)

wryfly said:
			
		

> great visual there Burner......when I get home this evening, I'll post the sketch I have of our fireplace.....
> 
> thanks!


 Can you  post a picture of your fire place opening and the measurements ?  The damper is up from the face of the fire place which mite give you a little more room by tilting the stove as you go in. Thats what I had to do.


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## wryfly (Aug 4, 2009)

I have a pretty detailed plan and section of the fireplace, but I'll try to get a photo of it as well.  Is that damper necessary?  I was going to have the flex-duct coming through the smoke chamber and make the connection to the collar.  Our fireplace is only 23" tall.....it's a real pain!


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## wryfly (Aug 4, 2009)

Thanks lady......I did put in a new masonary floor and extended the hearth out 16" from the face of the fireplace.  I was wondering whether to cut the legs to fit, or to just remove them and set the stove on 4" bar stock.  If I ever sell the stove in the future i could just replace the original legs......just a thought.


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## wryfly (Aug 5, 2009)

....so here is the sketch of the existing firebox.  Someone refered to this as a "heat-a-lator", the sides and the back are metal, ideally I could remove this, but think I'll be getting into a can of worms that i don't want to open.....

.....thoughts?


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## wryfly (Aug 5, 2009)

hey there Diva......I totally agree.  This setup thermally is like a big hole in the wall.  This is a 120yr old farm house that we've been living in and renovating.....fun fun.  This room went from concrete slab with no insulation in walls or roof to rigid on the floor with ply and wood flooring-walls have batt with 1 1/2" interior foam-ceiling is spray foam.  I still don't know what to do with this chimney short of tearing it out and starting new.

I've attached an updated sketch with the stove in place, things are tight, but looks like it'll work.....??!!??


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## wryfly (Aug 5, 2009)

Thanks Diva.....would you put the fan under the stove blowing into the box or behind the stove blowing hot air out of the box?  As for the "fun" idea....your idea of fun is different than mine apparently   The interior brick acutally goes up 5' to a timber mantel then steps in with stud wall and gyp above.  My sketch does not show the propser depth of the existing chimney base, it definately extends past the exterior of the house further than shown.

As for a block off plate - would batt insulation be sufficent or should i get a metal plate to git up there with a hole for the flex liner?

My folks were saying that the farmers were having some issues this year......seems they're always fighting something.


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## wryfly (Aug 5, 2009)

It must have the secondary air intake because it does have the perferated tubes in the ceiling.  Will the hot air behind the stove affect the air flow into these tubes?  should i get a mason involved and get a fresh air duct installed in the brick work??.....just another big hole in the wall.  The room has been tightened up quite a bit with the new insulation and air sealing......

thanks for the dialog Diva......much appreciated


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## Fake coal burner (Aug 6, 2009)

Do you have any combustible material behind the tin box and chimney wood studs etc. Metal and brick will transfer heat to the combustibles material. I can give you the stove clearances if you do have combustible material or would like them. Do not place a fan in front of stove blowing air. Your secondary burn chamber intake is in the back of stove at the bottom. If will act like a blow torch when stove is inclosed in fire place I did that on mine when I first installed it . I can show how I made my fan set up to get around that. Cheap. Do the block off plate save heat from going up chimney.


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## wryfly (Aug 7, 2009)

hey there Burner.......thanks for the heads up with the fan.  We are clear of combustables around the brick, the problem is the conductivity to the outside, but no easy way around that for now.  We have an older small box stove in there now that we've been using for a couple years now, but it's not very efficient and was meant to just be temporary.

I'd like to see your setup for the fan.....thanks!

What do you think about the price.....$175??


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## Fake coal burner (Aug 7, 2009)

wryfly said:
			
		

> hey there Burner.......thanks for the heads up with the fan.  We are clear of combustables around the brick, the problem is the conductivity to the outside, but no easy way around that for now.  We have an older small box stove in there now that we've been using for a couple years now, but it's not very efficient and was meant to just be temporary.
> 
> I'd like to see your setup for the fan.....thanks!
> 
> What do you think about the price.....$175??



SEE if you can get him to come down to $ 150.00. Find something wrong with the stove like broken brick or some thing. The company is long gone, history. No parts other than glass. Bricks you can find and cut if you have to. Door and glass seals you can get at a stove shop. Put the savings toward you blower system or flue pipe etc. Doent even worry about the heat being conducted to the out side. Mine was the same.  If you will pm I will send you the pictures and diagram of the cheap blower system and how I hooked it up manual over ride and automatic. with parts that I used.  single and duel system. about 50.00 total parts. I use the same blower system with my gas heating stove with a slight modification. No blower oppt.


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## Fake coal burner (Aug 16, 2009)

wryfly said:
			
		

> hey there Burner.......thanks for the heads up with the fan.  We are clear of combustables around the brick, the problem is the conductivity to the outside, but no easy way around that for now.  We have an older small box stove in there now that we've been using for a couple years now, but it's not very efficient and was meant to just be temporary.
> 
> I'd like to see your setup for the fan.....thanks!
> 
> What do you think about the price.....$175??



Did you get the pictures I sent by e-mail to you on msn. of blower set up, for trailblazer?


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## wryfly (Aug 17, 2009)

Hey Chunk.....I did get those, thanks a ton.  I like your setup, but i don't think i'll be able to take advantage of the blower system.  I think I'll get through this season and monitor how it works.  Then maybe develop something next summer if we need it.


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## Fake coal burner (Aug 18, 2009)

Post some pictures of your install as you go along with the trail blazer. You can make the blower set up with the stove in place.  in the winter time as I did with both stoves. If you have ceiling fan you can use that instead. I found on mine I have about 2 feet of cold air on the floor with no fan, Air gets trapped. I have no ceiling fans. What is size of your old chimminey? How wide is the old damper in you fire place? When you make your damper block off plate> when stove is in a confined place such as you are doing. Do not use galvanized sheet metal It could give of some fumes that will make you sick. Use un galvanized sheet metal. I talked to my friend who is metallurgist. He says galvanized metal will melt at 1000 deg. Can start to give of fumes at 700 deg. when confined with steady heat. Might be slight but every day can make you sick. He said to ask for un galvanized metal. He came over to look at my set up.


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## wryfly (Sep 24, 2009)

So we were down to the lower 30's over the weekend, and I was itchn' to get our new-old stove fired up.  Also gave a shot to top down firestarting.....my wife was full of doubt, but low and behold, this little stove came roaring to life.

We are very excited about this new addition, although I am a bit disapointed at the depth that it sits into the firebox.  I was hoping that it would be proud of the brick more than it is.  The final finishing touch to this room is to cover this brick with a cultured stone product.....then I came up with another idea....

To pull the stove further into the room, the brick above the firebox would need to be cut back, ideally in a nice flat arch.  This would allow the liner coming down through the damper to angle towards the space instead of turning straight down.  Then when we do the cultured stone, we could treat the arch to mimick a true stone arch contruction.

Any thoughts or concerns with cutting this brick up to the level of the damper?

Thanks for all your feedback in this process....much appreciated!

and the folks we bought if from actually spent some time in my neck of the woods in northern Aroostook county.....small world!


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## Fake coal burner (Sep 24, 2009)

wryfly said:
			
		

> So we were down to the lower 30's over the weekend, and I was itchn' to get our new-old stove fired up.  Also gave a shot to top down firestarting.....my wife was full of doubt, but low and behold, this little stove came roaring to life.
> 
> We are very excited about this new addition, although I am a bit disapointed at the depth that it sits into the firebox.  I was hoping that it would be proud of the brick more than it is.  The final finishing touch to this room is to cover this brick with a cultured stone product.....then I came up with another idea....
> 
> ...



Your stove sat in your fire place just like mine did. I could not bring mine forward there was brick leveling stake sticking in the brick chimney about 5 feet up. Could not reach it. My Chimney was only 7 inches at the damper and above about 10 inches wide inside. If you can brig it out more by doing the arch Idea that will work ok. Is the front on the chimney looking at it from the front of the stove setting on the fire place damper plate? My chimney sits on the back of the damper plate for reinforce ment.. On your picture are these hot air ducts and cold air returns for fire place?


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## wryfly (Sep 24, 2009)

Fake coal burner said:
			
		

> Your stove sat in your fire place just like mine did. I could not bring mine forward there was brick leveling stake sticking in the brick chimney about 5 feet up. Could not reach it. My Chimney was only 7 inches at the damper and above about 10 inches wide inside. If you can brig it out more by doing the arch Idea that will work ok. Is the front on the chimney looking at it from the front of the stove setting on the fire place damper plate? My chimney sits on the back of the damper plate for reinforce ment.. On your picture are these hot air ducts and cold air returns for fire place?



Hey there Burner.......

The brick is actually on a 4x4 angle iron (i tried to sketch it on the image) though i will take a closer look at it.  And I had assumed that the grills in the photo are cold air returns and the hot air ducts, though i question their effectivness, which is why I don't hesitate to cover them with stone.....


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## Fake coal burner (Sep 24, 2009)

wryfly said:
			
		

> Fake coal burner said:
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Just a thought on the grills you might want to pull the covers off and see if they have fans mounted in them. If not you could put a box fan or some small fan in front off the bottom grill and see if you get air out off top move it to the other side do the same. Stove does not have to be running at this time. If you get air out of the top vents. Try it some time when the stove is burning the same way Use a cheap thermometer when stove is burning for a while top and bottom temperature difference. My friend has the same grill set up with fans on his fire place with glass doors in front and his works great for heat ditrabution


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## wryfly (Sep 24, 2009)

that's a great idea.  I have taken the grates off in the past to clean inside and there definately isn't a fan located inside, but would probably be pretty easy to retro-fit one inside.  I'll definately look into that before covering them with stone.

thanks!!


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## Fake coal burner (Sep 25, 2009)

wryfly said:
			
		

> that's a great idea.  I have taken the grates off in the past to clean inside and there definately isn't a fan located inside, but would probably be pretty easy to retro-fit one inside.  I'll definately look into that before covering them with stone.
> 
> thanks!!



You are welcome.
You did a great job on the install. Don't let the size of stove fool you. It gives off heat burns clean. Did you install a fire place damper block of plate? You might want to put one of those cheap  oven thermometer from super market food store Put on top of stove to see how hot its getting. That little stove can fool you on the temperature its running.  Keep us posted with you progress on the rock face and how the stove is doing for heating. We like to see pictures too.


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## wryfly (Sep 25, 2009)

I didn't install a block off "plate", but I did cut a piece of Kaowol (however that's spelled) to fit in the opening.  If the feeling that it's not sufficient, I can easily pull it out and get a solid surface up there.

As for the thermometer.....is there a concern that it will get too hot in that space?

On an asthetic note.......I was just looking at the old pictures of the stove and was impressed with the outcome of the finish.....as I pat myself on the back


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## Fake coal burner (Sep 25, 2009)

wryfly said:
			
		

> I didn't install a block off "plate", but I did cut a piece of Kaowol (however that's spelled) to fit in the opening.  If the feeling that it's not sufficient, I can easily pull it out and get a solid surface up there.
> 
> As for the thermometer.....is there a concern that it will get too hot in that space?
> 
> On an asthetic note.......I was just looking at the old pictures of the stove and was impressed with the outcome of the finish.....as I pat myself on the back


quote author="wryfly" date="1253899975"]I didn't install a block off "plate", but I did cut a piece of Kaowol (however that's spelled) to fit in the opening.  If the feeling that it's not sufficient, I can easily pull it out and get a solid surface up there.

As for the thermometer.....is there a concern that it will get too hot in that space?

On an asthetic note.......I was just looking at the old pictures of the stove and was impressed with the outcome of the finish.....as I pat myself on the back [/quote]

The stove will run a little hotter in there. The thermometer will let you know if you are over firing stove and give you control of your damping settings for a clean burn and comfort zone for the room you are in. Some times when you load the stove wood burns at a different rate. It can be a safety feature to. A lot of wood burning people also install a flu thermometer for out going flu temp. But you can not do that With set up. I found with stove top them, on top of that stove in the center close to the exhaust the is not that much difference in exhaust flu temp. I even put the old oven thermometer on top of my gas unit even thow is all controlled by thermostat and safety features.


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## Fake coal burner (Oct 8, 2009)

Fake coal burner said:
			
		

> wryfly said:
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The stove will run a little hotter in there. The thermometer will let you know if you are over firing stove and give you control of your damping settings for a clean burn and comfort zone for the room you are in. Some times when you load the stove wood burns at a different rate. It can be a safety feature to. A lot of wood burning people also install a flu thermometer for out going flu temp. But you can not do that With set up. I found with stove top them, on top of that stove in the center close to the exhaust the is not that much difference in exhaust flu temp. I even put the old oven thermometer on top of my gas unit even thow is all controlled by thermostat and safety features.[/quote]

Have you had a chance to see how your stove is going to heat your needs? How about the air ducks in the wall?


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## wryfly (Oct 8, 2009)

Fake coal burner said:
			
		

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Have you had a chance to see how your stove is going to heat your needs? How about the air ducks in the wall?[/quote]

The stove is really doing great with heat output.  Even though it's so deep into the firebox.  Doesn't look like I'll be getting into the brick work until the spring, so we'll have to deal through this winter.  With the few fires that we've made so far I've definately noticed the dryness in the air, and I will not be able to put our steamer on it because of where it sits.  Looks like I'll have to find a little humidifyer this season.

Anyway....the wife is warm (which means happy), and I'm stoked on the wood efficiency.  The only thing I need to work through now is build up on the glass during an over night burn.  I did an over-nighter last week as a test and woke up to a nice warm room and a great bed of coals, but the glass was dirty around the sides and lower perimeter.  I assume that I will need to keep the air more open.......trial and error I guess.


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## Fake coal burner (Oct 8, 2009)

wryfly said:
			
		

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The stove is really doing great with heat output.  Even though it's so deep into the firebox.  Doesn't look like I'll be getting into the brick work until the spring, so we'll have to deal through this winter.  With the few fires that we've made so far I've definately noticed the dryness in the air, and I will not be able to put our steamer on it because of where it sits.  Looks like I'll have to find a little humidifyer this season.

Anyway....the wife is warm (which means happy), and I'm stoked on the wood efficiency.  The only thing I need to work through now is build up on the glass during an over night burn.  I did an over-nighter last week as a test and woke up to a nice warm room and a great bed of coals, but the glass was dirty around the sides and lower perimeter.  I assume that I will need to keep the air more open.......trial and error I guess.[/quote]

Can you put a shallow metal non rust bowl on top of the stove full of water. I did that and it helped on the dry air. Have to fill it 3 times or more a day. Dollar store or thrift store for bowl.
2 inches by 7" dia. or what ever will fit.


 Glad its working out for you. That little stove can put out some heat. I had to clean glass every morning to see the fire. 

Have you played with a fan in front of the wall air intake?


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## wryfly (Oct 8, 2009)

ya I thought of using a shallow pan but was concerned with the moisture reacting with the brick lintle just above it or having the moisture going up into the fire box and messing with the block off plate.

Havn't tried the fan in those vents yet.  I planned on giving that a shot next week when i return from our moose hunt!!


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## donbrown (Dec 19, 2009)

What is the startup proceedure for a trailblazer ?

Fan starts easy enough but can't figuire out the auger.

Plastic button missing on start auger button.

Posted this on another string that has identical picks of the control panel.


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## Fake coal burner (Jan 2, 2010)

wryfly said:
			
		

> Fake coal burner said:
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The stove is really doing great with heat output.  Even though it's so deep into the firebox.  Doesn't look like I'll be getting into the brick work until the spring, so we'll have to deal through this winter.  With the few fires that we've made so far I've definately noticed the dryness in the air, and I will not be able to put our steamer on it because of where it sits.  Looks like I'll have to find a little humidifyer this season.

Anyway....the wife is warm (which means happy), and I'm stoked on the wood efficiency.  The only thing I need to work through now is build up on the glass during an over night burn.  I did an over-nighter last week as a test and woke up to a nice warm room and a great bed of coals, but the glass was dirty around the sides and lower perimeter.  I assume that I will need to keep the air more open.......trial and error I guess.[/quote]

How is  that stove working out this winter?


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## Fake coal burner (Jan 16, 2010)

:roll: How did the Trail Blazer work out for you this winter? Did you have to use any fans?


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## billk (Sep 7, 2011)

i see that you have the manual for the trailblazer 1700, i need the installation clarence for it from the manual or the plate fr the insurance co. can you help


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## Fake coal burner (Sep 8, 2011)

Yes I have the stove manual. Clarence is listed on the plate on the back of stove. I will get it for you in the morning Sept. 08 2011. Stove is in my shed. Just setting there. Will that be ok for you?


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## billk (Sep 8, 2011)

i would be very grateful, can yoy post it or do you want my email address, thanks


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## Fake coal burner (Sep 8, 2011)

Trail Blazer Diagram to get clearances from plate. Let me know which numbers on diagram  you need so I can get you the clearance notes


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## billk (Sep 8, 2011)

i needthe clearances for fig. 1, back wall and side wall, can you make a copy of te plate or the manual, i need it for the insurance company, this way it will show the name of the stove and manufacturer. i really appreciate this, i will probably need the floor protector also, they are real painsin the ass, i have been argueing with them for weeks because they can't read my plate, bill


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## Fake coal burner (Sep 9, 2011)

Clearances are only on the silver tin plate only, not in the manual You get a glare on the silver plate when you take a picture of it. Have any ideas how to do a copy? 
The clearances are minimum in inches. 
Back of stove is 20 Side of stove is 30 inches both sides 

Hearth is 8 inches from stove sides back 8 inches front 18 inches 
The plate states that the hearth pad be 3/8 min. thickness non combustible material or equivalent. or as code in jurisdiction See Diagram 

Testing Lab Braun Intertec North West inc. 
Port Land, Oregon USA


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## billk (Sep 9, 2011)

i am trying to take a picture with my camera, will let you know how i make out, try taking picture covering flash with black tape, will talk to you tomorrow, thanks bill


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## Fake coal burner (Sep 9, 2011)

I had my neighbor come over to look at the plate she does photography for a company. She said she thinks she can do it. She is going to do it 9-9-2011 about noon. She has the digital soft ware to get rid of the glare etc. Wish her luck. I will send it to you if it works out or post it.
I will Let you know the out come Hang in there Keep us posted.


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## Fake coal burner (Sep 10, 2011)

She took the picture on the information plate for the trail blazer stove you can read all of the plate on the camera. She said she will put them in computer tomorrow and do some adjustments so they are better to read. Will be posting them 9-10-2011. Hopefuly.


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## billk (Sep 14, 2011)

i really appreciate all you are doing, tell your neighbor thanks, will you be able to post it, thanks bill


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## Fake coal burner (Sep 14, 2011)

I have the file with about 6 pictures of the plate from light to dark. I will post the light one on Hearth net. But the pictures have to enlarged in paint or fax viewer or some program to be able to read all of it. If you will PM your e-mail address I can send the whole file to you or just the best pictures on the Trail Blazer plate I just got them about  5 minutes ago. It took awhile to get them back to be able to read. Let me know how they turn out for you and the insurance company. Thank for the patience on waiting. Allen


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## billk (Sep 14, 2011)

i just got the picture you sent, it might work, if you would send the best of them to me it would help, email billkri@juno.com, thanks again


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## Fake coal burner (Sep 17, 2011)

Did you get the Trail Blazer pictures I e- mailed you for the plate specifications ?


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## billk (Sep 17, 2011)

yes i did, i will send you an email. i have called insurance co, he is coming up next week, i think the one you sent on the hearth web is clear enough to read, will let you know, bill


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