# Looking for a vintage lawn tractor.



## smokinj (Jun 6, 2013)

Looking to run a one botom plow what old lawn tractors should I be looking at?


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## gzecc (Jun 6, 2013)

Define vintage. >20, 30,40, 50 yrs old?


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## smokinj (Jun 6, 2013)

gzecc said:


> Define vintage. >20, 30,40, 50 yrs old?


 

I thinking 1975 or older. I am looking at a sears suburban ss12 about 1965 and very minty, but painted the wrong color for that year.


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## ScotO (Jun 6, 2013)

I have a 1964 Suburban, and that thing will drag a plow.....

They don't make lawn tractors like that anymore....damm thing is a heavy beast!  Has the low range gearing on it also.  If the price is right, that'd be a decent tractor you are eying up...

I'd love to find an old Copar Panzer or even an old Speedex with some attachments.  My cousin has two old Springfield tractors (from the early 60's), they're neat old mowers, and do OK plowing snow and such, not sure if you could use it for a bottom plow though...


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## smokinj (Jun 6, 2013)

Scotty Overkill said:


> I have a 1964 Suburban, and that thing will drag a plow.....
> 
> They don't make lawn tractors like that anymore....damm thing is a heavy beast! Has the low range gearing on it also. If the price is right, that'd be a decent tractor you are eying up...
> 
> I'd love to find an old Copar Panzer or even an old Speedex with some attachments. My cousin has two old Springfield tractors (from the early 60's), they're neat old mowers, and do OK plowing snow and such, not sure if you could use it for a bottom plow though...


 

If its got the gears and 12 hp its traction and weight on the front. (so you dont flip it on top of your self) I have a scar from when I was 13 on my wrist one flip over on me and the exhaust hit. Hurt like hell but flip it back over and rode it home.


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## ScotO (Jun 6, 2013)

smokinj said:


> If its got the gears and 12 hp its traction and weight on the front. (so you dont flip it on top of your self) I have a scar from when I was 13 on my wrist one flip over on me and the exhaust hit. Hurt like hell but flip it back over and rode it home.


I'd consider either making a counter-weight for the front or something of the like, if you are going to drag a plow....maybe even make up some weights for the front wheels too.  Also, those Suburbans came with more of a turf tire.  I'd be making a set of chains for the tires if you are going to be plowing dirt, Jay.

Or you could go drop some coin on a set of tiller lug tires for it!  I'll be buying those for mine soon, as the tires are starting to show their age....

Pic of my old Sears Suburban........use it all the time for processing and also even on some of our tree jobs....


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## mithesaint (Jun 6, 2013)

Not a particularly original suggestion, but what about an old John Deere, like a 212 or 214? Deere made a ton of them, so there are enough around you can buy them cheaply, find replacement parts easily enough, and find attachments without too much trouble.

I have a 212, and love it. I have a front snow blade, 30" tiller, and a sleeve hitch with a 10" moldboard plow, disc, and cultivator attachment. I abuse the snot out of that tractor, and it keeps coming back for more. Lugged tires, wheel weights, and hydraulic lift, and it's a beast.  Attached pic is pre-hydraulic lift but from last fall when I was tearing up the garden for the winter.


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## MasterMech (Jun 6, 2013)

Deere 200 series are routinely found under $800 and are proven pulling machines. Even better are the 300 and 400 series units.  400s will be relatively pricey however.  318s are real popular, 3 pt hitch and loader capable, and mint examples are to be had for $2k or less.

Cub and wheel horse both made great GTs back in the day too.  And of course you've already discovered the Sears tractors.


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## smokinj (Jun 6, 2013)

mithesaint said:


> Not a particularly original suggestion, but what about an old John Deere, like a 212 or 214? Deere made a ton of them, so there are enough around you can buy them cheaply, find replacement parts easily enough, and find attachments without too much trouble.
> 
> I have a 212, and love it. I have a front snow blade, 30" tiller, and a sleeve hitch with a 10" moldboard plow, disc, and cultivator attachment. I abuse the snot out of that tractor, and it keeps coming back for more. Lugged tires, wheel weights, and hydraulic lift, and it's a beast. Attached pic is pre-hydraulic lift but from last fall when I was tearing up the garden for the winter.


 


Been working on a mint 212 awesome machine. So is the 214 and 216. Oh and yours is what one I would love to get ahold of. Just hard to find a nice one.


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## gzecc (Jun 6, 2013)

I think the deere 140 is pre 1975.  Hydro trans. 3 point etc.
http://www.weekendfreedommachines.com/info/index.php


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## MasterMech (Jun 7, 2013)

gzecc said:


> I think the deere 140 is pre 1975. Hydro trans. 3 point etc.
> http://www.weekendfreedommachines.com/info/index.php


Pre-'75 Deere GTs are limited to the 120/140, and the 110/112.

The 200 series tractors are very similar to the 110/112's while the 120/140 morphed into the early 300 series. Biggest change was the introduction of twin cylinder engines and of course, power steering. (Both of those didn't happen until 1983 however, after the redesign of the 300 series.)

140H3's often sell for more than a good running 318. Just because of their collectibility.


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## blades (Jun 7, 2013)

IH Case units  up to about 1980-81 are also good choices  Simplicity units( baron is one)  also with the Sunstrand hydro are also good ultimate being the powermax units also came with straight gearing,  Allis Chalmers or MontgomeryWards brands same units different colors Think there might have been some Sears units also.


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## lukem (Jun 7, 2013)

How much ground you wanting to break?


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## Jags (Jun 7, 2013)

Allis Chalmers B1/B10 is a classic for that stuff. Many were turned into pro pullers. The gear transmission could actually hold back a car engine. (Vega engines were popular in the day). And the rearend was bullet proof.


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## smokinj (Jun 7, 2013)

lukem said:


> How much ground you wanting to break?


 
Oh not much I have 4,000 square foot garden, but there friends and family that always want me to do theres. My little troy built just don't go deep enough either.


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## lukem (Jun 7, 2013)

smokinj said:


> Oh not much I have 4,000 square foot garden, but there friends and family that always want me to do theres. My little troy built just don't go deep enough either.


 

Gotcha.  Should be well within a good GT's capability.  

The guy I used to work for had a Kubota B series (7100?) that we would turn over dirt with the bottom plow then put on the 3pt tiller and smooth it all out.  This was closer to and acre though...and that took a while.  It was awesome, but $.


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## MasterMech (Jun 7, 2013)

smokinj said:


> Oh not much I have 4,000 square foot garden, but there friends and family that always want me to do theres. My little troy built just don't go deep enough either.


Jay,

You gotta check this guy out. (He has many other videos too)


He's obviously got modern equipment but t'aint nuttin' you couldn't pull off with vintage iron.


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## smokinj (Jun 7, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> Jay,
> 
> You gotta check this guy out.
> 
> ...


 
I am going to hold the line at 12hp. Cant talk the guy out of his 212 though...Yet anyways.


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## MasterMech (Jun 7, 2013)

smokinj said:


> I am going to hold the line at 12hp. Cant talk the guy out of his 212 though...Yet anyways.


Just be careful.   Garden tractors have the same psychological risks that chainsaws do. You're likely to buy/sell/trade a few before you wind up with a keeper. Or two.


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## smokinj (Jun 7, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> Jay,
> 
> You gotta check this guy out. (He has many other videos too)
> 
> ...




Really looks like loam to me..... But cool done the less...


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## Bocefus78 (Jun 7, 2013)

PM sent


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## smokinj (Jun 7, 2013)

Bocefus78 said:


> PM sent


 
One sent back


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## smokinj (Jun 7, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> Deere 200 series are routinely found under $800 and are proven pulling machines. Even better are the 300 and 400 series units. 400s will be relatively pricey however. 318s are real popular, 3 pt hitch and loader capable, and mint examples are to be had for $2k or less.
> 
> Cub and wheel horse both made great GTs back in the day too. And of course you've already discovered the Sears tractors.


 

How about a 316 would the tranny hold up plowing?


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## MasterMech (Jun 7, 2013)

smokinj said:


> How about a 316 would the tranny hold up plowing?


Yes!  Is it a first gen 316? (Kohler single) or the later Onan twin powered machine?


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## smokinj (Jun 7, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> Yes! Is it a first gen 316? (Kohler single) or the later Onan twin powered machine?


 

kohler single 14. Its a 314.


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## hman (Jun 7, 2013)

1254 Husky Bolens tractor.Got high/low range and posi traction.


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## tekguy (Jun 7, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> Yes! Is it a first gen 316? (Kohler single) or the later Onan twin powered machine?


didnt one of those first gen 316's or 317's get a bad rap for engine issues? something about kohler not designing the oiling correct


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## Jags (Jun 7, 2013)

I think the kohler 17hp got the bad rep (2 cylinder).  The 10-16hp single lung K series Kohlers are pretty tough.


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## Ashful (Jun 7, 2013)

Nothing wrong with the old Deere's, but 1960's Cubs and even the old Bolens have so much more... panache.

Do note, you should be searching on the term "garden tractor", not "lawn tractor", if your intent is plowing or tilling.


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## smokinj (Jun 7, 2013)

Joful said:


> Nothing wrong with the old Deere's, but 1960's Cubs and even the old Bolens have so much more... panache.
> 
> Do note, you should be searching on the term "garden tractor", not "lawn tractor", if your intent is plowing or tilling.


 
Yea but most people list there both ways. Seems they don't know....


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## tekguy (Jun 7, 2013)

smokinj said:


> Yea but most people list there both ways. Seems they don't know....


a Bolens HT23 will pulls your plow


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## Sprinter (Jun 7, 2013)

These old Cub Cadets are classics.


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## smokinj (Jun 7, 2013)

Sprinter said:


> These old Cub Cadets are classics.


 

What model?


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## Sprinter (Jun 7, 2013)

I'm not an expert on them.  Here's a couple of links.

http://www.cubclassics.com/

http://www.mytractorforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=19


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## Ashful (Jun 7, 2013)

smokinj said:


> What model?


 

Narrow frame, original style seat, optional round fenders... likely a model 100. A very early Cub.

I had a 123 hydro, which was a serious, mean little machine.


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## Sprinter (Jun 7, 2013)

Joful said:


> Narrow frame, original style seat, optional round fenders... likely a model 100. A very early Cub.
> 
> I had a 123 hydro, which was a serious, mean little machine.


I misunderstood.  Yes, this one is a 100.  I just found this on another forum.  I once saw a pic of one hauling an unbelievable load of hay on some forum, but I can't find it now.


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## smokinj (Jun 7, 2013)

I am looking at a 108 cub


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## Ashful (Jun 7, 2013)

Those are all good machines. A 12x would be even better.

The quick course:

7x = 7 hp
10x = 10 hp
12x = 12 hp
14x = 14 hp
etc.

The 7x's are very cool, but seriously lacking in power and weight. The 10x's will do most of what you need. I think all 7x, 10x, and 12x tractors are narrow frame, and they introduced the wide frame with the 14x, but don't quote me on that. The narrow frames are very collectible, and serious workhorses, but the implements are more difficult to change out. They introduced a quick change system with the wide frame.





Sprinter said:


> I misunderstood. Yes, this one is a 100. I just found this on another forum. I once saw a pic of one hauling an unbelievable load of hay on some forum, but I can't find it now.


 
Nothing misunderstood.  The 100 is a cool machine!  I wish I had space to have one.


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## lukem (Jun 7, 2013)

http://terrehaute.craigslist.org/grd/3855321913.html

Unload the Deere and put some money in your pocket after buying something like this.


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## MasterMech (Jun 7, 2013)

If you're looking for a working machine, consider the following.

The aftermarket and enthusiast communities are what keep these machines alive.  It's one thing to collect classic machinery, restore it and run it from time to time. It's quite another to need it to perform reliably in the present day.

Out of all the companies that built fantastic garden tractors, there are only two or three left.  One has forever been playing catch-up, the other is a retail bean-counter whose product is a shadow of it's ancestors. (And that is stretching it a bit IMO) The final survivor, you can still walk up to the parts counter, state what you need and there is more than a passing chance that they will have it or it can be had in one to two days.  It's the same company that has an aftermarket and enthusiast following that is second to none.


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## mithesaint (Jun 7, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> If you're looking for a working machine, consider the following.
> 
> The aftermarket and enthusiast communities are what keep these machines alive. It's one thing to collect classic machinery, restore it and run it from time to time. It's quite another to need it to perform reliably in the present day.
> 
> Out of all the companies that built fantastic garden tractors, there are only two or three left. One has forever been playing catch-up, the other is a retail bean-counter whose product is a shadow of it's ancestors. (And that is stretching it a bit IMO) The final survivor, you can still walk up to the parts counter, state what you need and there is more than a passing chance that they will have it or it can be had in one to two days. It's the same company that has an aftermarket and enthusiast following that is second to none.


 

Truth.  If you're actively using a 30 year old machine, it's gonna break.  Repairs are a lot easier when you can easily find parts.


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## Ashful (Jun 7, 2013)

That's why I sold my 123.  Got tired of fixing it.  Never anything major... just endless little things.  I was putting a LOT of hours on it, though.

... a LOT of hours.


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## gzecc (Jun 8, 2013)

mithesaint said:


> Truth. If you're actively using a 30 year old machine, it's gonna break. Repairs are a lot easier when you can easily find parts.


 30? He's looking for at least 40 yrs old. I use a 30 yr old machine for my routine work around here. I never thought it was vintage.


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## simple.serf (Jun 8, 2013)

I have a JD-110, the weakest link in the older JDs is the Variator clutch system. Its a variable sheave system. Mine is currently at the dealer being rebuilt. Nice thing is that you go to the parts counter, and what you need is there the next day. Or, if you don't have time to do the job yourself, you can drop off a 40 YO garden tractor and they still have techs who can fix them. Try doing that with any other make.

Currently, I have been using my 1947 Gravely L for just about everything other than field tillage. They are still cheap, so you can buy a few for parts (I have 3 parts units and 2 runners). Like a horse though, you have to like working with them, because they always want to try to hurt, injure or maim you when you least expect it...


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## Ashful (Jun 8, 2013)

gzecc said:


> 30? He's looking for at least 40 yrs old. I use a 30 yr old machine for my routine work around here. I never thought it was vintage.



Yeah, the "new" tractor that replaced my 48 year old Cub is a 27 year old Deere.  Both are old, but there's a huge difference in technology and reliability. That said, the Cub could often be repaired with parts from Walmart or Napa... the newer Deere is more modular, always requires special parts from Deere.

PS - if anyone is looking for a good running Kohler K301, I have one I want to sell.  Came out of a Deere, I bought it as a spare for my Cub.  Both used the same 12hp engine, with different shrouds, etc.


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## smokinj (Jun 8, 2013)

lukem said:


> http://terrehaute.craigslist.org/grd/3855321913.html
> 
> Unload the Deere and put some money in your pocket after buying something like this.


 
Funny you posted that Looks like my new tractor will be in the form of a Cub cadet 108. 3 point hitch. Its only a 10hp but it should do what I want. Plus its still got the working belly deck. Oh and yes I will be throwing quite a bit of cash in my pocket.  I am only looking for light duty plowing and light duty mowing. We are talking maybe and average of 2hrs a week tops. I can get part new on the net. I do that a lot with the jds if I a few day anyways. With have 2 it will be a done issue waiting.


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## tekguy (Jun 8, 2013)

my 40 year old 110 mows 1 acre weekly reliably - no issues on parts availability, as far as I have read the engineers at JD designed the original 110 with the intention of it being able to pull a 1 bottom plow


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## Treacherous (Jun 9, 2013)

smokinj said:


> I thinking 1975 or older. I am looking at a sears suburban ss12 about 1965 and very minty, but painted the wrong color for that year.


 

My dad has a '70 or '71 SS15 that he still uses today.  My grandfather bought it new.  It sure is built like a tank.  Colors are blue and white.


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## Knots (Jun 10, 2013)

Economy Power King and Jim Dandy.  Lotsa fun!


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## smokinj (Jun 10, 2013)

Looks like its going to be a 108 cub cadet. Will be here 5:00 Tuesday!


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## mithesaint (Jun 10, 2013)

www.millertire.com.  Get a nice pair of Tru Power lugged tires and don't look back.


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## smokinj (Jun 10, 2013)

mithesaint said:


> www.millertire.com. Get a nice pair of Tru Power lugged tires and don't look back.


 


Oh yea been eyeing them!


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## HittinSteel (Jun 10, 2013)

Welcome to the cub club, I'm a new member myself


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## Jack Fate (Jun 10, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> If you're looking for a working machine, consider the following.
> 
> The aftermarket and enthusiast communities are what keep these machines alive. It's one thing to collect classic machinery, restore it and run it from time to time. It's quite another to need it to perform reliably in the present day.
> 
> Out of all the companies that built fantastic garden tractors, there are only two or three left. One has forever been playing catch-up, the other is a retail bean-counter whose product is a shadow of it's ancestors. (And that is stretching it a bit IMO) The final survivor, you can still walk up to the parts counter, state what you need and there is more than a passing chance that they will have it or it can be had in one to two days. It's the same company that has an aftermarket and enthusiast following that is second to none.


 
and the resale value reflects that & collectability ,availability of parts drives home the point


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## smokinj (Jun 10, 2013)

HittinSteel said:


> Welcome to the cub club, I'm a new member myself


 
Is that a high low two speed tranny?


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## HittinSteel (Jun 11, 2013)

It's a 3 speed, but it does not have the "creeper" gear.


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## smokinj (Jun 11, 2013)

Got it runs good hydro all works good. I thought this model was a 10hp but seems its a 12hp.


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## Ashful (Jun 11, 2013)

Someone changed hoods or engines. The 108 is 10 hp.

Sure you didn't bring home a 123? Post a photo.


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## smokinj (Jun 12, 2013)

Joful said:


> Someone changed hoods or engines. The 108 is 10 hp.
> 
> Sure you didn't bring home a 123? Post a photo.


 
Its clearly a 12 hp. The guy told me(because I am thinking the same thing) With the hydro system the 108 came with a 12hp kolher.


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## Ashful (Jun 12, 2013)

There's more here than meets the eye.  If your machine looks like a 108, but has 12 hp and hydro, then it's a 129 wearing a 108 hood.  Same frame, tractor, etc... just a different engine and trans, which dictates the model #.

These were the first series of wide frame tractors, and the line-up was as follows:

86 - 8 hp 3 speed
108 - 10 hp 3 speed
128 - 12 hp 3 speed
109 - 10 hp hydro
129 - 12 hp hydro
149 - 14 hp hydro (with lift!)

These models were introduced in 1971, and they were replaced by the Quiet Line in 1974.

The good news is that the 129 is a much better / more expensive machine than the 108!

Is this your tractor, with a different logo on the hood?


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## smokinj (Jun 12, 2013)

Joful said:


> There's more here than meets the eye. If your machine looks like a 108, but has 12 hp and hydro, then it's a 129 wearing a 108 hood. Same frame, tractor, etc... just a different engine and trans, which dictates the model #.
> 
> These were the first series of wide frame tractors, and the line-up was as follows:
> 
> ...








See if this helps any? It is a 3 speed but the deck and back hitch move by electric. Iam starting to think 128 or 126. When I said hydr I was talking about the deck and hitch lift. But I guess its electric.


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## Ashful (Jun 12, 2013)

That's a 128!  The 126 was the old narrow frame design with cast grille and separate hood.


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## smokinj (Jun 12, 2013)

Joful said:


> That's a 128! The 126 was the old narrow frame design with cast grille and separate hood.


 
Your good!


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## Ashful (Jun 12, 2013)

Spent too much time on the Cub Cadet forum, back when I was refurbishing my own Cub.


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## smokinj (Jun 12, 2013)

Joful said:


> Spent too much time on the Cub Cadet forum, back when I was refurbishing my own Cub.


 
This winter I hope to do the same with this one.


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## smokinj (Jun 12, 2013)

The trans call for IH Hy-Tran What would you use?


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## Ashful (Jun 12, 2013)

Lots of folks use ATF, but I just used the Cub HyTran.  Almost never needs changing, if you stay out of ponds and keep up with filter changes, so consider it a one-time expense.  The failure mode is soaking up too much water (hydrophilic?), which causes the fluid to congeal like jelly in the bottom of the sump.

Check out the onlycubcadets forum... Like hearth.com for cubs!


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## tekguy (Jun 13, 2013)

smokinj said:


> The trans call for IH Hy-Tran What would you use?


tractor supply has stuff in 2 and 5 gallon containers relatively cheap that gets good reviews


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## Ashful (Jun 13, 2013)

Here is exactly what I bought, both at ccspecialties.org.  Filter was $14, fluid was $29/gal.  Requires just shy of 2 gallons for a complete change.


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## smokinj (Jun 13, 2013)

Joful said:


> Here is exactly what I bought, both at ccspecialties.org. Filter was $14, fluid was $29/gal. Requires just shy of 2 gallons for a complete change.
> 
> View attachment 104362
> View attachment 104363


 
Awesome!


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## Ashful (Jun 13, 2013)

Expensive fluid, but the good news is you won't be changing it every year.  Most folks go many years with the same HyTran fluid, just changing the filter yearly, if you keep the water out of it.


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## Jags (Jun 13, 2013)

Hmmm...its beens 37 years since I change the hydro fluid in my lawn mower.  I'll bet it could use an oil change by now.


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## smokinj (Jun 13, 2013)

Jags said:


> Hmmm...its beens 37 years since I change the hydro fluid in my lawn mower. I'll bet it could use an oil change by now.


 
This one is 43 years and I don't know where she been. Looks pretty muddy to me though.


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## Jags (Jun 13, 2013)

Those are tough old units, Jay.  I know my mowing allis has approx 4000 hrs on it.  Original engine, then a rebuild, then short blocked (piston pin came loose on original) and it will probably need a rebuild in the next couple of years.


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## smokinj (Jun 13, 2013)

Jags said:


> Those are tough old units, Jay. I know my mowing allis has approx 4000 hrs on it. Original engine, then a rebuild, then short blocked (piston pin came loose on original) and it will probably need a rebuild in the next couple of years.


 
Yea I only have a little over 2 acres. With this and my deere should last a life time. Now its time for a nice poll barn.....


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## Jags (Jun 13, 2013)

Build it bigger than you think. This one is 40 x 60.




Or you will just end up building another one. This one is 52 x 74:



(Note to self - I got too much stuff)


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## smokinj (Jun 13, 2013)

Jags said:


> Build it bigger than you think. This one is 40 x 60.
> View attachment 104366
> 
> 
> ...


 

Looking right now at 30x36! I was thinking 20x20 she says 40x40. Awesome.


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## Ashful (Jun 13, 2013)

I'm at 30 x 30 for my detached garage, and out of space.  I'm preparing to put in a second floor, now.


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## smokinj (Jun 13, 2013)

Joful said:


> I'm at 30 x 30 for my detached garage, and out of space. I'm preparing to put in a second floor, now.


 
Bawhahah. We are looking at the second floor half done out the shoot!  Don't know where we will land but that's what we are trying to do.


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## smokinj (Jun 16, 2013)

Ok first mowing out and the JD is a caddy compared to the cub, but not a bad job at all. Need a few parts and sharpen the blades and should be up to speed soon.


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## MasterMech (Jun 16, 2013)

A lot of machines here get free blade sharpening and a deck leveling.  I'm picky about what I allow on the lawn.   Otherwise it gets tested on the neighbors lawn.


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## smokinj (Jun 17, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> A lot of machines here get free blade sharpening and a deck leveling. I'm picky about what I allow on the lawn.  Otherwise it gets tested on the neighbors lawn.


 
I have over 2 aces and fields are the property line with a ditch across the street. If I mowed the neighbors I going need some gas money.... Guess where the cub cuts?

Thought I should add one more thing. The deere rides like a caddy!


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## Jags (Jun 17, 2013)

smokinj said:


> Thought I should add one more thing. The deere rides like a caddy!


 
There is not a single factory seat on anything of mine that gets yard time.  I don't want to spill my mojito.


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## smokinj (Jun 17, 2013)

Jags said:


> There is not a single factory seat on anything of mine that gets yard time. I don't want to spill my mojito.


 
My jd has the lumbar supports and 3/4 of a beer can be done with out spilling a drop. That's not going to happen on the cubby.  (Not that I got it for the ride though)


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## Ashful (Jun 17, 2013)

Hey... you wanted vintage... 

Beautiful setting, J.  Looks nice and quiet.


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## smokinj (Jun 17, 2013)

Joful said:


> Hey... you wanted vintage...
> 
> Beautiful setting, J. Looks nice and quiet.


 
Yes I did.....That jd would crap on its self pulling a plow. So, light duty mowing and under an hour a week max.


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## smokinj (Jun 17, 2013)

Ok what should I change the trans fluid to? ( I know its here somewhere but cant find it)


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## Ashful (Jun 17, 2013)

I'm no help with manual trans cubs, since I've only owned hydro.  Did you sign up for onlycubcadets.net?


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## smokinj (Jun 18, 2013)

Joful said:


> I'm no help with manual trans cubs, since I've only owned hydro. Did you sign up for onlycubcadets.net?


 
Oh yea....One member is helping with parts. Kind of a silly question to start a new thread on. I think it should be 90 and sells for 10 bucks a gallon at tsc.


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## Ashful (Jun 18, 2013)

Yeah... one of the two advantages of the 3-speed gear box, the other being it's easier to maintain constant calibrated speed when pulling a seed / fertilizer spreader.


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## buggyspapa (Jun 20, 2013)

So, I'm intrigued, but I'd like to use a GT for skidding out logs. Mostly fir and spruce for lumber. The grass is an hour or so a week with a pushmower. 6" of snow with the 33" blower about the same. The landlord keeps telling me he wants a tractor on the property, but between the sailboat, travel and his girlfriend, I'm beginning to grow skeptical. Not much of a budget, but time and inclination. Seems there a decent amount of old iron on Maine CL. Advice?


----------



## smokinj (Jun 20, 2013)

buggyspapa said:


> So, I'm intrigued, but I'd like to use a GT for skidding out logs. Mostly fir and spruce for lumber. The grass is an hour or so a week with a pushmower. 6" of snow with the 33" blower about the same. The landlord keeps telling me he wants a tractor on the property, but between the sailboat, travel and his girlfriend, I'm beginning to grow skeptical. Not much of a budget, but time and inclination. Seems there a decent amount of old iron on Maine CL. Advice?


 


I am told that the old cub cadet 3 speeds are the ticket. High low even better. There is no dought  this cub would flip over backwards on you and never give up. Just make sure you got a good clutch.


----------



## rkusek (Jun 21, 2013)

My dad had a 3 speed Cub like that when I was about 8 or 9. It wasn't big enough for what we were trying to mow and he ended up trading for a 3pt shredder. Would have been nice to mow the yard on our farm with it but I was left with the 3hp Briggs 21" pushmower which did the job just fine.

I'm into vintage too. Got 2 Deere's, a 318 and a 332 both '87 models. 318 looks nicer but uses a little oil although engine still pulls very well. 332 is a 16hp Yanmar diesel with 1300 hrs. I picked it up for $2k but it needs new paint. The fiberglass hood was broke also but i found one off a 316 on ebay cheap.  It runs like a dream and the diesel is very economical compared to a gas.  I would like to re-paint/restore it to new condition this winter and maybe add a 3pt. I was going to try sell the 318 and find a loader for the 332 but those are very rare especially around here. Since those old loaders don't come on and off that easy it would make more sense to keep the 318 and put the loader on it. Too bad the Onans are so expensive to overhaul. If I could get $1200 for the 318, I would go offer this guy $2k for this 322 (Yanmar 18hp gas) http://omaha.craigslist.org/grd/3833978980.html. The blade alone is probably worth 400-500 bucks. See why they say these are like chainsaws!!


----------



## MasterMech (Jun 21, 2013)

rkusek said:


> If I could get $1200 for the 318, I would go offer this guy $2k for this 322 (Yanmar 18hp gas)​


 
322 is one of my personal favorites.  That engine just purrs (3 cyl!) and when you get it loaded down good, the power/torque on hand is very surprising.  Every bit as tough as the diesels too.

A rare find at a good price.  A near mint one here on CL but the guy wants $3600+ for it.  That kind of dough and I'm looking for a 425/445/455. 

http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/grd/3875501212.html


----------



## smokinj (Jun 21, 2013)

rkusek said:


> My dad had a 3 speed Cub like that when I was about 8 or 9. It wasn't big enough for what we were trying to mow and he ended up trading for a 3pt shredder. Would have been nice to mow the yard on our farm with it but I was left with the 3hp Briggs 21" pushmower which did the job just fine.
> 
> I'm into vintage too. Got 2 Deere's, a 318 and a 332 both '87 models. 318 looks nicer but uses a little oil although engine still pulls very well. 332 is a 16hp Yanmar diesel with 1300 hrs. I picked it up for $2k but it needs new paint. The fiberglass hood was broke also but i found one off a 316 on ebay cheap. It runs like a dream and the diesel is very economical compared to a gas. I would like to re-paint/restore it to new condition this winter and maybe add a 3pt. I was going to try sell the 318 and find a loader for the 332 but those are very rare especially around here. Since those old loaders don't come on and off that easy it would make more sense to keep the 318 and put the loader on it. Too bad the Onans are so expensive to overhaul. If I could get $1200 for the 318, I would go offer this guy $2k for this 322 (Yanmar 18hp gas) http://omaha.craigslist.org/grd/3833978980.html. The blade alone is probably worth 400-500 bucks. See why they say these are like chainsaws!!


 
Good running 318 around here would bring 1200.00...


----------



## lukem (Jun 21, 2013)

smokinj said:


> Good running 318 around here would bring 1200.00...


 

Not a 318, but looks pretty mean for 1500.

http://terrehaute.craigslist.org/grd/3854886543.html


----------



## smokinj (Jun 21, 2013)

lukem said:


> Not a 318, but looks pretty mean for 1500.
> 
> http://terrehaute.craigslist.org/grd/3854886543.html


 
Change the wheelie bars to a 2 bottom plow!


----------



## MasterMech (Jun 23, 2013)

smokinj said:


> Good running 318 around here would bring 1200.00...


Just a running 318 here goes for $1200, easy. If it's mint, anything under $2500 is a one-day ad.


----------



## smokinj (Jun 23, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> Just a running 318 here goes for $1200, easy. If it's mint, anything under $2500 is a one-day ad.


 


They will not come close to 2500.00 unless you got a whole lot with it. Take a look at this 212 see what it brings. http://www.ebay.com/itm/221240999571?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


----------



## MasterMech (Jun 24, 2013)

smokinj said:


> They will not come close to 2500.00 unless you got a whole lot with it. Take a look at this 212 see what it brings. http://www.ebay.com/itm/221240999571?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


550 is a steal with the tiller and the whole weight setup.  $1000 machine in these parts.


----------



## smokinj (Jun 24, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> 550 is a steal with the tiller and the whole weight setup. $1000 machine in these parts.


 

That is a couple hours north of me. I think I know who bought it. Yea I didn't think it would go that low.


----------



## bluedogz (Jun 24, 2013)

I got a 1969 Deere 110 with a front snow blade.  Come get it.


----------



## Paulywalnut (Jun 24, 2013)

Shame you can't get the JD 212.


----------



## smokinj (Jun 25, 2013)

Paulywalnut said:


> Shame you can't get the JD 212.


 


I am good with the 108 cub.(My 108 is set-up in every way that a 128 is but the sticker)  Its got everything a 212 got but I here a much better trans.


----------



## Paulywalnut (Jun 25, 2013)

smokinj said:


> I am good with the 108 cub.(My 108 is set-up in every way that a 128 is but the sticker) Its got everything a 212 got but I here a much better trans.


Good deal. Hope it works out for you.


----------



## greg13 (Jun 25, 2013)

I just picked up a cub 1450 for $300, one of the last IH models. It has sat for 2 years but the guy swears it ran fine when he parked it. Now I just need time to mess with it.


----------



## smokinj (Jun 25, 2013)

greg13 said:


> I just picked up a cub 1450 for $300, one of the last IH models. It has sat for 2 years but the guy swears it ran fine when he parked it. Now I just need time to mess with it.


 


I been going through mine with a fine tooth comb x3........lol I have parts that will be here in the next couple days and everything will be above par. After that comes tires and a paint job. Still looking for a rear tail light lens. Its the only thing I am missing.


----------



## lukem (Jun 25, 2013)

What kind of tires?


----------



## smokinj (Jun 25, 2013)

lukem said:


> What kind of tires?


 


Tractor tires and tri hauls. Not sure but I may go the extra mile for the Firestone.

http://www.millertire.com/products/...0-12/23x8-50-12-firestone-flotation-23-4-ply/


----------



## Ashful (Jun 25, 2013)

smokinj said:


> Still looking for a rear tail light lens. Its the only thing I am missing.


 

You can get that lens from ccspecialties, IIRC. It's a metal Grote can light, I assume?


----------



## smokinj (Jun 25, 2013)

Joful said:


> You can get that lens from ccspecialties, IIRC. It's a metal Grote can light, I assume?


 


Its square I can buy the whole thing for 50.00. The lens normally runs 10.00 bucks and no one has it that I can find. It works just missing lens.


----------



## Ashful (Jun 25, 2013)

Newer vintage than I'm familiar with.  I was thinking of the old round Grote's.  Sorry!


----------



## smokinj (Jun 25, 2013)

Joful said:


> Newer vintage than I'm familiar with. I was thinking of the old round Grote's. Sorry!


 

Its a 1971....lol


----------



## Ashful (Jun 25, 2013)

Yeah... but my Cub was two generations prior to yours.  Not sure exactly when they switched from the round tail cans to those square lights.


----------



## smokinj (Jun 25, 2013)

Joful said:


> Yeah... but my Cub was two generations prior to yours. Not sure exactly when they switched from the round tail cans to those square lights.


 

Two I thought the very first one was in the early 60's?


----------



## Ashful (Jun 25, 2013)

smokinj said:


> Two I thought the very first one was in the early 60's?


 

Yep... 1963! Come to think of it, though... my tractor was actually three generations prior to your model. Each of these "generations" only lasted two years, on average.

gen.1: Cub Cadet Original
gen.2: 70 & 100
gen.3: 71, 102, 122 & 123 <-- my tractor
gen.4: 72, 104, 124, 105, and 125
gen.5: 73, 106, 126, 107, 127, and 147 (last narrow frame models)
gen.6: 86, 108, 128, 109, 129, and 149 <-- your tractor


----------



## smokinj (Jun 30, 2013)

Fired the cub up last night to mow and a truck hauling a big zero turn JD with IH plates up front and in the window locks it up. He wanted my cub and was ready to throw down top money. I ask what to money was he throw out 1200.00. I can see the GF on the JD just shaking her head. I just had to turn it down and thank him for the offer but at this time NFS! lol felt good though.


----------



## MasterMech (Jun 30, 2013)

smokinj said:


> Fired the cub up last night to mow and a truck hauling a big zero turn JD with IH plates up front and in the window locks it up. He wanted my cub and was ready to throw down top money. I ask what to money was he throw out 1200.00. I can see the GF on the JD just shaking her head. I just had to turn it down and thank him for the offer but at this time NFS! lol felt good though.


I dunno...... 1200 bucks and I prob would have sent that cub packing......  They just don't sell like that around here.  

Feels good indeed!


----------



## smokinj (Jun 30, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> I dunno...... 1200 bucks and I prob would have sent that cub packing...... They just don't sell like that around here.
> 
> Feels good indeed!


 


I didnt think so either seems there more sought after than the JD's. At-least this model (I guess) The 3 point hitch electric and mower deck electric 12 hp and larger tires than a 108. It is a 128 best i can tell. I was very tempted but there is nothing I can find out there with a 3 point that comes close to 1200.00, but he only lives a couple miles away. Suppose to bring me a rear tail light lens. We will see I cant hind one any where. We broke the whole thing down over the last couple weeks probably got 50 hours and parts. Even the stirring is up graded and tuns as good as my deer. Oh and getting lots of waves from people riding by. Never get that on the JD.


----------



## Ashful (Jul 1, 2013)

A good condition 12hp early wide frame with 3-point, mower deck, and lots of new parts? Tough call, but $1200 is not stratospheric. When I was shopping for mine, I was seeing several in original running condition go $1400 on ebay.

I paid $150 for my hydro 123, with 48" mower deck, 42" plow, 42" snow thrower, wheel weights, wheel chains, and spare engine. The guy selling it to me said, "I think I'm giving you a pretty good deal here," but refused to take any more than $150 for it.


----------



## smokinj (Jul 1, 2013)

Joful said:


> A good condition 12hp early wide frame with 3-point, mower deck, and lots of new parts? Tough call, but $1200 is not stratospheric. When I was shopping for mine, I was seeing several in original running condition go $1400 on ebay.
> 
> I paid $150 for my hydro 123, with 48" mower deck, 42" plow, 42" snow thrower, wheel weights, wheel chains, and spare engine. The guy selling it to me said, "I think I'm giving you a pretty good deal here," but refused to take any more than $150 for it.


 
Wow, I didn't get a deal like that. I probably into it for 750.00 best tell. Its 99 percent there I have paint and tires to go. Now biggest question I have been trying to wrap my head around. Would you badge this thing as a 128 since it has the 12hp and larger tires?


----------



## Ashful (Jul 1, 2013)

smokinj said:


> Wow, I didn't get a deal like that. I probably into it for 750.00 best tell. Its 99 percent there I have paint and tires to go. Now biggest question I have been trying to wrap my head around. Would you badge this thing as a 128 since it has the 12hp and larger tires?


 

I probably had $700 - $750 into mine, as well.  After I bought it, I installed a NOS seat ($200), rebuilt the carb, rebuilt the top end of the spare engine, new ignition, new tail light, one headlight, wheel weights, belts, etc.  I sold it for $750, so it was essentially a break-even on 2 years of use.

Yes, you should re-badge it 128, since that's what it is!  A 108 with a 10 hp motor is a 108, but a 108 with a 12 hp motor is a 128.    You'd know the tire sizes better than me, as I never really got into the wide frame Cubs, myself.


----------



## smokinj (Jul 1, 2013)

Joful said:


> I probably had $700 - $750 into mine, as well. After I bought it, I installed a NOS seat ($200), rebuilt the carb, rebuilt the top end of the spare engine, new ignition, new tail light, one headlight, wheel weights, belts, etc. I sold it for $750, so it was essentially a break-even on 2 years of use.
> 
> Yes, you should re-badge it 128, since that's what it is! A 108 with a 10 hp motor is a 108, but a 108 with a 12 hp motor is a 128.  You'd know the tire sizes better than me, as I never really got into the wide frame Cubs, myself.


 
I got the paint guy line up.(Going thing I was worried about is badging it as a 128 and there a Super 108)    I going to have him do the hood and rear fender and do the rest myself.


----------



## Ashful (Jul 1, 2013)

Don't think they ever made a Super 108, but I could be wrong.  I thought the whole "Super" thing came much, much later in the series.


----------



## smokinj (Jul 1, 2013)

Joful said:


> Don't think they ever made a Super 108, but I could be wrong. I thought the whole "Super" thing came much, much later in the series.


 
Yea I cant find anything either just didn't want to screw it up if there was.


----------



## smokinj (Jul 1, 2013)

Any you guys in this video?


----------



## Ashful (Jul 1, 2013)

Some of the guys in that video are regulars over at the onlycubcadets forum.  I wasn't there!


----------



## smokinj (Jul 1, 2013)

Joful said:


> Some of the guys in that video are regulars over at the onlycubcadets forum. I wasn't there!


 
That's a cool way to knock out a 60 acre field. GTG Anyone?


----------



## lukem (Jul 1, 2013)

smokinj said:


> That's a cool way to knock out a 60 acre field. GTG Anyone?


 

60 acres I'm rolling one of these:


----------



## smokinj (Jul 1, 2013)

lukem said:


> 60 acres I'm rolling one of these:


 
Yea I will never have to worry about one of those....I use to run a 4 bottom plow with a Super M back in the day....lol


----------



## lukem (Jul 1, 2013)

smokinj said:


> Yea I will never have to worry about one of those....I use to run a 4 bottom plow with a Super M back in the day....lol


 

I got to run one earlier this spring.  You can turn some dirt in a hurry with that thing.


----------



## smokinj (Jul 1, 2013)

lukem said:


> I got to run one earlier this spring. You can turn some dirt in a hurry with that thing.


 
Biggest I have been on is a 4240. Growing up we had a super M that was a great tractor.


----------



## lukem (Jul 1, 2013)

This was an 8235R.  Fun to drive, but need to have serious work to do for the11 gallons/hour and $700 fill-ups.


----------



## MasterMech (Jul 1, 2013)

smokinj said:


> Biggest I have been on is a 4240. Growing up we had a super M that was a great tractor.


 
Spent a fair amount of time on a 4440 and 4450 MFWD (4x4) (both similar to that 4240, and neither one of them had "stock" fuel settings, ) as a kid.  5 bottom or later we switched to a 3 bottom over/under setup.  Could haul a** with that setup!


----------



## smokinj (Jul 1, 2013)

I bet that is an awesome set up. The super me was wto after warm up low 3rd gear.


----------



## MasterMech (Jul 1, 2013)

smokinj said:


> I bet that is an awesome set up. The super me was wto after warm up low 3rd gear.


Ran a MD with an International 82 pull-type combine too. Rare setup here in the 21st century! Man you needed gorilla arms to drive that one (wide-front) but I still loved the start-on gas, run on diesel motor it had. Fill it up in the AM, it would run 6 hours to lunchtime, come in, fill it again, 2 qts of 15W40, and we were off till sunset. Memories.


----------



## smokinj (Jul 1, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> Ran a MD with an International 82 pull-type combine too. Rare setup here in the 21st century! Man you needed gorilla arms to drive that one (wide-front) but I still loved the start-on gas, run on diesel motor it had. Fill it up in the AM, it would run 6 hours to lunchtime, come in, fill it again, 2 qts of 15W40, and we were off till sunset. Memories.


 

I have detail a 9500 combine took 2 days with an air compressor and one day with a power washer, and 3 hours to detail the windows. It was a very long 3 days.


----------



## MasterMech (Jul 1, 2013)

smokinj said:


> I have detail a 9500 combine took 2 days with an air compressor and one day with a power washer, and 3 hours to detail the windows. It was a very long 3 days.


 
Beats the 3 minutes you spend trying to put the fire out!


----------



## lukem (Jul 2, 2013)

smokinj said:


> I have detail a 9500 combine took 2 days with an air compressor and one day with a power washer, and 3 hours to detail the windows. It was a very long 3 days.


 

If you ever do that again, start with the leaf blower to get the big stuff out of the way.  Much better than the air compressor.


----------



## smokinj (Jul 2, 2013)

lukem said:


> If you ever do that again, start with the leaf blower to get the big stuff out of the way. Much better than the air compressor.


 


Its so pack in there you need that 135 psi coming out out a needle kind of force. The farmer I done it for has a special set of long, longer and very long  air blow kit. Longest was in the 4 foot range. This was after 3200 acres in Hamilton county one of the largest crop per acre in Indiana. (I will not be doing another)


----------



## Dairyman (Jul 2, 2013)




----------



## MasterMech (Jul 2, 2013)

Dairyman said:


>



Looks expensive! 

Gotta wonder if it was overcast or is that just soot hanging in the air?


----------



## Ashful (Jul 2, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> Looks expensive!


 

Time is money!

Dunno if it _looks _expensive, but it sure _sounds _expensive!  Holy turbo!


----------



## Dairyman (Jul 3, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> Looks expensive!
> 
> Gotta wonder if it was overcast or is that just soot hanging in the air?



A lot like a Saturday night tractor pull! But can you imagine how rough that field is when they're done, lukem's R had better have an active seat.


----------



## lukem (Jul 3, 2013)

Joful said:


> Holy turbo!


 
Indeed, but still not enough turbo judging by how much they are over-fueling.


----------



## Ashful (Jul 3, 2013)

Just saw this pic come up in my background screens, from when I first brought that Cub home.  Figured J would get a kick out of it.  I pulled those concrete wheel weights and replaced with iron the following week.




Maybe the Deere hats have something to do with why that Cub was always giving me little things to fix.


----------



## smokinj (Jul 3, 2013)

Joful said:


> Just saw this pic come up in my background screens, from when I first brought that Cub home. Figured J would get a kick out of it. I pulled those concrete wheel weights and replaced with iron the following week.
> 
> View attachment 105630
> 
> ...


 
That needs to be frame up and put in the shop.........


----------



## MasterMech (Jul 3, 2013)

Tractors can make for some great memories eh?


----------



## Jags (Jul 3, 2013)

I don't believe there has ever been a little one born that didn't want to "sit on tractor".


----------



## smokinj (Jul 3, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> Tractors can make for some great memories eh?


 

Very nice More wall hangers!.....Just need a little splash of yellow and white.


----------



## MasterMech (Jul 3, 2013)

smokinj said:


> Very nice More wall hangers!.....Just need a little splash of yellow and white.


Got one sitting out behind the woodpile.  Waiting for it's trip to the scrap yard. (Don't worry, it's an MTD! )


----------



## Ashful (Jul 3, 2013)

Holy Deere's!  You have a clear case of TAD.

Here's a slightly older one.  I'm driving, younger brother is in the trailer.


----------



## smokinj (Jul 3, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> Got one sitting out behind the woodpile. Waiting for it's trip to the scrap yard. (Don't worry, it's an MTD! )


 

The old cubs turn heads for sure.....Mine will be pulling a float next year with 1964 wheel horse and a jd 212.


----------



## smokinj (Jul 3, 2013)

Joful said:


> Holy Deere's! You have a clear case of TAD.
> 
> Here's a slightly older one. I'm driving, younger brother is in the trailer.
> 
> View attachment 105631


 
Awesome!


----------



## Bocefus78 (Jul 11, 2013)

Finally got mine all done and running. Since everyone else put up pics, guess I might as well.  Here is a before and after.


----------



## smokinj (Jul 11, 2013)

Bocefus78 said:


> Finally got mine all done and running. Since everyone else put up pics, guess I might as well. Here is a before and after.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Looks good!


----------



## Ashful (Jul 11, 2013)

Bocefus78 said:


> Finally got mine all done and running. Since everyone else put up pics, guess I might as well.  Here is a before and after.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



What?  No kid on it?


----------



## Bocefus78 (Jul 12, 2013)

Joful said:


> What? No kid on it?


 Unless you want to see my dog or cat on it, nope.


----------



## Okie1 (Oct 3, 2014)

Here's one of mine, 1976
	

		
			
		

		
	



	

		
			
		

		
	
 Massey Ferguson MF-16


----------



## Ashful (Oct 4, 2014)

Schweet!


----------



## Okie1 (Oct 4, 2014)

Joful said:


> Schweet!


You like that one? I have 16 more, This ones a 1976 Bolens H16 single cylinder overhead valve cast iron Tecumseh, running 25x10-12 ITP 589 rears and 4.00- tri-ribs up front, foot feed Hydrostatic transmission, with lock out posi-trac and all shaft drive, front mid mount and rear, and hydraulic lift. Nobody better get in my way, lol. I paid 500 for this (it didn't look like this) and a snow blower, tiller, deck and plow and I restored it last year. Cubs and Deere's run from this machine


----------



## Charles1981 (Oct 5, 2014)

I just got a 1979 Yanmar 240. It is a little bigger than most of yours but I am really excited to use it this winter.

Has a 3pt hitch, PTO, 6 foot rear blade for snow removal, and a 60 inch belly mower deck.

Has taken 3-4 weeks for me to get it running again though but I got a steal on it at 1,000$.

Still needs more work though.

New battery, tire replacement (real beyotch), oil change, oil/fuel/air filter, new starter, serviced the fuel injector system, severely clean up the mower deck, find replacement parts, install a new mower belt also a real pain, front weights, lube and grease everything, Still gatta service the breaks, clean her up some more....

Overall pretty cool. My wife is determined I love the tractor more.... erhm... ehm.. uhmm...

I definitely cant keep my hands off it past few weeks for more than a few days or so though.


----------



## Okie1 (Oct 5, 2014)

Charles1981 said:


> I just got a 1979 Yanmar 240. It is a little bigger than most of yours but I am really excited to use it this winter.
> 
> Has a 3pt hitch, PTO, 6 foot rear blade for snow removal, and a 60 inch belly mower deck.
> 
> ...



The yanmar is a good all around machine, what you wont care for alot is turning around during snow removal. our going to need chins or AGs before winter. I don't know why front blades weren't popular on these bigger tractors, like they were on smaller ones. My two stage 48" snow blower on my 1979 Ariens GT14H blows snow more than 40 feet going forward and at pretty good clip, and with the tiller on the back I have all the ballast I need


----------



## Charles1981 (Oct 5, 2014)

Hrmm by chins do you mean chains? and I don't know what AG are.

The owner recommended I plow in reverse with the blade backwards. He never used chains and had some small inclines to plow as well. My driveway is completely flat... so hopefully I won't need chains. We will see.


----------



## BrotherBart (Oct 5, 2014)

AG=agricultural tires. Heavy lugged.


----------



## Okie1 (Oct 5, 2014)

Charles1981 said:


> Hrmm by chins do you mean chains? and I don't know what AG are.
> 
> The owner recommended I plow in reverse with the blade backwards. He never used chains and had some small inclines to plow as well. My driveway is completely flat... so hopefully I won't need chains. We will see.


Sorry, chins = chains, Ags are Agricultural tires, or farm tires, plowing in reverse would mean (or should mean) that you will have to bend around backwards if you want to see what your going to hit or plow, not very comfortable for any period of time, you'll see. Wouldn't be hard to fabricate a front blade from a 54 inch John Deere blade. If the previous owner said he did not use chains on those tires in the Michigan winter, I would seriously take stock of everything else he professed to you. On a snow/ice packed driveway (flat or not) about the time you get a load of snow on the blade those tires will sit in one place and spin the same way your car would. Have you lived in Michigan long? When I was up there it snowed alot in the winter and often cars needed chains just to drive on the roads, and they weren't pushing a blade


----------



## KD0AXS (Oct 5, 2014)

Those are some nice tractors.

Here's what I have, although it's not exactly "vintage". It's a 2000 John Deere 425. 46" blower and 54" mower deck. I'd like to get the 3 point, rear PTO, and tiller for it, and also the FEL attachment, but we're talking $$$ for all that stuff. It's a great little workhorse as it is though.


----------



## Okie1 (Oct 5, 2014)

KD0AXS said:


> Those are some nice tractors.
> 
> Here's what I have, although it's not exactly "vintage". It's a 2000 John Deere 425. 46" blower and 54" mower deck. I'd like to get the 3 point, rear PTO, and tiller for it, and also the FEL attachment, but we're talking $$$ for all that stuff. It's a great little workhorse as it is though.


Those 425s are awesome vintage or not, we are talking serious machinery. Save your money on the FEL, they are useless on a GT, I had one on a 455, and on grass with a bucket of topsoil the machine was worthless, barely could reverse, turn and maneuver. FELs on anything less than 2500 lbs is all for show and piddlers, not saying they don't have a place, they do, if you have 1-5 acres they can be quite handy, just don't expect a lot, and figure if you use the FEL it will cut the life of your machine considerably, they are really hard on frames,, front ends, engines, and transmissions. I would NEVER buy a GT or small tractor that had or has a FEL for that reason, most of the time they look great, but they are whooped. Do you have the tires on the 425 "loaded"?


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## KD0AXS (Oct 5, 2014)

Okie1 said:


> Those 425s are awesome vintage or not, we are talking serious machinery. Save your money on the FEL, they are useless on a GT, I had one on a 455, and on grass with a bucket of topsoil the machine was worthless, barely could reverse, turn and maneuver. FELs on anything less than 2500 lbs is all for show and piddlers, not saying they don't have a place, they do, if you have 1-5 acres they can be quite handy, just don't expect a lot, and figure if you use the FEL it will cut the life of your machine considerably, they are really hard on frames,, front ends, engines, and transmissions. I would NEVER buy a GT or small tractor that had or has a FEL for that reason, most of the time they look great, but they are whooped. Do you have the tires on the 425 "loaded"?



Tires are not loaded, but I do have 6 suitcase weights that go on the back when the blower is on. It does pretty good, but a little extra traction certainly wouldn't hurt anything. 

I didn't really plan on getting the FEL anyway. About the only thing I'd use it for would be moving around firewood, like big rounds that I can't pick up by hand. I suppose it might be useful for moving snow, but I already have the blower for that. (and a plow on my 4 wheeler) Definitely not worth the $3K price tag.  For that price or not much more, I could find a decent old tractor with a FEL or even an older skid loader.


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## Okie1 (Oct 5, 2014)

KD0AXS said:


> Tires are not loaded, but I do have 6 suitcase weights that go on the back when the blower is on. It does pretty good, but a little extra traction certainly wouldn't hurt anything.
> 
> I didn't really plan on getting the FEL anyway. About the only thing I'd use it for would be moving around firewood, like big rounds that I can't pick up by hand. I suppose it might be useful for moving snow, but I already have the blower for that. (and a plow on my 4 wheeler) Definitely not worth the $3K price tag.  For that price or not much more, I could find a decent old tractor with a FEL or even an older skid loader.


I see 3 points out there very reasonably on craigslist, and sometimes you can sneak up on a good deal on ebay, if you had a 3 point you could buy or build you a little boom pole, 6 footer, they sell them on ebay for about a 110.00, with the blower on the front for weight you could haul some big rounds. I'll tell you a trick about loading the tires, take the tire off the tractor and drill the same size air valve hole on the opposite side of the wheel, install another valve and remove stems from both valves, With both valve stems at the 12 o'clock position, hook a small hose attached to the bottom of a large bucket of windshield wiper fluid, it will fill very quickly displacing the air out the extra valve stem, when fluid runs out of the other air valve replace the stems, This will add 80 lbs or more to each tire, won't freeze, won't rust out your rim, and won't kill grass/dog if a leak occurs, best of all its cheap.


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## ad356 (Oct 5, 2014)

i thought i would chime in. i run a 1948 farmall cub, i know its a farm tractor but its the smallest of the old farmall line. nice, reliable little C60 60 cubic inch flathead four cylinder that simple little engine will run for quite a few decades in between overhauls. that little four cylinder is a low RPM engine so its very fuel efficient, balanced, and has a long life as i said between rebuilds. that engine will burn less fuel then a smaller single or twin. im running a 60" danco C3 finish mower (the other option is the woods which by the way is still in production) and i push snow with a 54" blade. cubs are readily available  and so are the parts (allot of reproduction stuff being made). its a useful little tractor, it wont break the bank and they are built like a larger tractor. i paid $1,800 for mine i have owned it 3 years and so far only replaced the front tires, the battery, and the normal paint and fluid changes. the tractor looks a little better then it did in this photo as i have since done a repaint on the front hood along with decals.

the cub is a serous little tractor built for light farming use, they arent out of place mowing, pushing snow, plowing 2-3 acres, or cultivating a larger lot. they are cultivating machines.


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## Okie1 (Oct 5, 2014)

ad356 said:


> i thought i would chime in. i run a 1948 farmall cub, i know its a farm tractor but its the smallest of the old farmall line. nice, reliable little C60 60 cubic inch flathead four cylinder that simple little engine will run for quite a few decades in between overhauls. that little four cylinder is a low RPM engine so its very fuel efficient, balanced, and has a long life as i said between rebuilds. that engine will burn less fuel then a smaller single or twin. im running a 60" danco C3 finish mower (the other option is the woods which by the way is still in production) and i push snow with a 54" blade. cubs are readily available  and so are the parts (allot of reproduction stuff being made). its a useful little tractor, it wont break the bank and they are built like a larger tractor. i paid $1,800 for mine i have owned it 3 years and so far only replaced the front tires, the battery, and the normal paint and fluid changes. the tractor looks a little better then it did in this photo as i have since done a repaint on the front hood along with decals.
> 
> the cub is a serous little tractor built for light farming use, they arent out of place mowing, pushing snow, plowing 2-3 acres, or cultivating a larger lot. they are cultivating machines.



I had one exactly like it and just about the same shape, on my 20 acres it didn't have a job, and a guy offered me 2,000 for it with a sickle bar, so off it went. They are good tractors, but two reason they need rebuilt fairly often, one their old, two they are only 10hp, that's asking a lot of an engine to power a 60 inch deck or front plow. I used the money to buy a big GT and several need attachments. This is my 1970 Bolens 1476, it's a single cylinder 14 hp Wisconsin engine with a Eaton 12 foot feed hydro with hydraulic lift , I have a three point and tiller. I put 4 bolt trailer hubs on the front along with 10 inch front narrow rims and 4.00-10 tri-ribs tires, the rears are 26x12-12 Duro 4 ply trenchers, I don't have the factory wheel weights installed yet, still drying.


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## ad356 (Oct 5, 2014)

those pics were taken before i did some work to her this summer. new radiator, repaint hood, decals, and fixed the shifter (i had an old IH cub cadet shifter on it as the original shifter broke while pushing snow this last winter, after all she is 66 years old, little stuff does break)


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## ad356 (Oct 5, 2014)

i disagree about the cub engines needing rebuild because they are only "rated" at 12 hp. they arent the most powerful tractor in the world, but it has more then enough to handle the 60" deck on fairly flat an level ground. i have mowed grass that was several feet tall on a property and was abandoned and had not been mowed all year.  while its only rated at 12 hp thats draw-bar hp and not crank. these engines put out around 50 ft/lbs of torque. the main reason they need overhaul often times is that they are old  and allot of them have many hours on them. the trick is to buy one that does not smoke when you buy it, and you will get many years out of it. i would venture to guess that it has quite a bit more power then your 14 Wisconsin, not that wisconsons arent good engines they are. i also think that parts availability for rebuilding might be better for the farmall, allot of parts have been reproduced for the IH tractors. i have also had kohler k series 12 hp engines and that 4 cylinder has ALLOT more lugging ability. 4 cylinder tractor engine are almost always going to have more lugging ability, after all you have 3 more pistons.

i do think allot of these cubs have ALLOT of hours on them, but once you overhaul the engine it will last a very, very long time if not a lifetime. talking to someone at a tractor show he said he was mowing 6 arces a week with a cub.... no problem, lasted 20 years doing that until he had to rebuild the engine; which he did. 

i have a good running spare engine under my bench that i picked up for $300 (i stole it) that is ready to go if i need an engine, so im not worried about it for a long time.


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## KD0AXS (Oct 5, 2014)

Okie1 said:


> I see 3 points out there very reasonably on craigslist, and sometimes you can sneak up on a good deal on ebay, if you had a 3 point you could buy or build you a little boom pole, 6 footer, they sell them on ebay for about a 110.00, with the blower on the front for weight you could haul some big rounds. I'll tell you a trick about loading the tires, take the tire off the tractor and drill the same size air valve hole on the opposite side of the wheel, install another valve and remove stems from both valves, With both valve stems at the 12 o'clock position, hook a small hose attached to the bottom of a large bucket of windshield wiper fluid, it will fill very quickly displacing the air out the extra valve stem, when fluid runs out of the other air valve replace the stems, This will add 80 lbs or more to each tire, won't freeze, won't rust out your rim, and won't kill grass/dog if a leak occurs, best of all its cheap.



That's a great idea for tire fluid, I might just have to do that.


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## Redbarn (Oct 5, 2014)

My 1974 J.Deere 312 has sat in the barn collecting dust since the motor broke in 1994. So as a "Father and Son" project, we resurrected it as an electric tractor.
We took out the gas motor, fuel tank etc. and and fitted a DC electric motor and Lithium batteries.

We now use it a a tow vehicle. With trailer attached, it is used to pull firewood up to the house for winter, amongst many other uses. 

Always starts, needs no gas or oil, makes no smell, virtually no noise and has great low down pulling power.
Lithium batteries do not self discharge so it is just parked over the winter and looses no charge.


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## Charles1981 (Oct 5, 2014)

Okie1 said:


> Sorry, chins = chains, Ags are Agricultural tires, or farm tires, plowing in reverse would mean (or should mean) that you will have to bend around backwards if you want to see what your going to hit or plow, not very comfortable for any period of time, you'll see. Wouldn't be hard to fabricate a front blade from a 54 inch John Deere blade. If the previous owner said he did not use chains on those tires in the Michigan winter, I would seriously take stock of everything else he professed to you. On a snow/ice packed driveway (flat or not) about the time you get a load of snow on the blade those tires will sit in one place and spin the same way your car would. Have you lived in Michigan long? When I was up there it snowed alot in the winter and often cars needed chains just to drive on the roads, and they weren't pushing a blade



Its my boss. He has a windy uphill incline, very mild. I dunno they had the tractor 15 years and have plowed the same driveway the entire time without chains.... Dunno we will find out, but i can always invest in chains. The wheel has a little ball turner, it isn't to bad to turn around and steer the wheel with the ball turner thingamabob. I'm sure it isn't ideal but he plowed backwards for 15 years....so I guess i will just have to see.


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## Okie1 (Oct 5, 2014)

ad356 said:


> i disagree about the cub engines needing rebuild because they are only "rated" at 12 hp. they arent the most powerful tractor in the world, but it has more then enough to handle the 60" deck on fairly flat an level ground. i have mowed grass that was several feet tall on a property and was abandoned and had not been mowed all year.  while its only rated at 12 hp thats draw-bar hp and not crank. these engines put out around 50 ft/lbs of torque. the main reason they need overhaul often times is that they are old  and allot of them have many hours on them. the trick is to buy one that does not smoke when you buy it, and you will get many years out of it. i would venture to guess that it has quite a bit more power then your 14 Wisconsin, not that wisconsons arent good engines they are. i also think that parts availability for rebuilding might be better for the farmall, allot of parts have been reproduced for the IH tractors. i have also had kohler k series 12 hp engines and that 4 cylinder has ALLOT more lugging ability. 4 cylinder tractor engine are almost always going to have more lugging ability, after all you have 3 more pistons.
> 
> i do think allot of these cubs have ALLOT of hours on them, but once you overhaul the engine it will last a very, very long time if not a lifetime. talking to someone at a tractor show he said he was mowing 6 arces a week with a cub.... no problem, lasted 20 years doing that until he had to rebuild the engine; which he did.
> 
> i have a good running spare engine under my bench that i picked up for $300 (i stole it) that is ready to go if i need an engine, so im not worried about it for a long time.


I apologize, I didn't mean to say they weren't good engines or they needed rebuilt alot, but rather at 60 years old, many have blowby and issues that a set of rings won't solve, many are needing a full rebuild bored and/or sleeved, might check your specs, my 1950 manual says 10.1 hp, it isn't the hp really as it is the gearing and the cub has a great rear end, and is a fine machine on a small lot, like I said, it did not fill a need for me on 20 acres, it wasn't a hydro and basically it was an tractor older and more primitive than I was interested in.


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## Okie1 (Oct 5, 2014)

Redbarn said:


> My 1974 J.Deere 312 has sat in the barn collecting dust since the motor broke in 1994. So as a "Father and Son" project, we resurrected it as an electric tractor.
> We took out the gas motor, fuel tank etc. and and fitted a DC electric motor and Lithium batteries.
> 
> We now use it a a tow vehicle. With trailer attached, it is used to pull firewood up to the house for winter, amongst many other uses.
> ...


Very nice F/S project, looks great. I hate to think what those batteries cost, but I venture to guess almost as much as the machine cost new, unless you work for the company


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## Okie1 (Oct 5, 2014)

Charles1981 said:


> Its my boss. He has a windy uphill incline, very mild. I dunno they had the tractor 15 years and have plowed the same driveway the entire time without chains.... Dunno we will find out, but i can always invest in chains. The wheel has a little ball turner, it isn't to bad to turn around and steer the wheel with the ball turner thingamabob. I'm sure it isn't ideal but he plowed backwards for 15 years....so I guess i will just have to see.



Was his driveway gravel or asphalt, big difference, yep you will see. If you don't like plowing in reverse don't hesitate to put a front plow on it, she and you will do much better looking and driving forward, just imagine turning around in car to backup, now maintain that position for an hour or so. Some don't mind, its pretty uncomfortable and unnatural position for me


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## Okie1 (Oct 5, 2014)

KD0AXS said:


> That's a great idea for tire fluid, I might just have to do that.


Plus side to the idea is that if you ever use wheel weights you have a valve on the inside


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## ad356 (Oct 5, 2014)

the cub is a perfect fit for my 2 acre lawn and im confident that i could mow quite a bit more with it and not have an issue. mowing 20 acres is allot and personally i like the old tractors so if it was me i probably would be looking at a super-a with a 72" mower (im quite sure they made 72" mowers). my cub has the electrical system ( i know 6volt), the lighting system and a has the touch control hydraulics the only thing it doesnt have is a 3pt hitch and for what i do with the tractor, that's not much of an issue. i know its not a hydro and i really dont care about that either, i dont have a problem clutching and shifting. 

as far as being rated at 10 hp, i think those engines are rated less then they actually produce OR more modern equipment is rated much higher then they actually produce. A 60" cut is a wide mower and i dont know of any other machine ever produced that will successfully turn a 60" mower and actually mow well on only 10 hp. if you were to try to mow with that same mower and only turn it with a little briggs 10 hp or a k241 (kohler k series 10 hp) i have a suspension that it would never work. the cub engine actually does a pretty good job with a 60" deck, but if you are mowing really deep grass your going to have to make a pass with the deck raised some to knock it down. if you maintain your lawn and mow it at least once every two weeks you will never have a lack of power.


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## Okie1 (Oct 5, 2014)

Your


ad356 said:


> the cub is a perfect fit for my 2 acre lawn and im confident that i could mow quite a bit more with it and not have an issue. mowing 20 acres is allot and personally i like the old tractors so if it was me i probably would be looking at a super-a with a 72" mower (im quite sure they made 72" mowers). my cub has the electrical system ( i know 6volt), the lighting system and a has the touch control hydraulics the only thing it doesnt have is a 3pt hitch and for what i do with the tractor, that's not much of an issue. i know its not a hydro and i really dont care about that either, i dont have a problem clutching and shifting.
> 
> as far as being rated at 10 hp, i think those engines are rated less then they actually produce OR more modern equipment is rated much higher then they actually produce. A 60" cut is a wide mower and i dont know of any other machine ever produced that will successfully turn a 60" mower and actually mow well on only 10 hp. if you were to try to mow with that same mower and only turn it with a little briggs 10 hp or a k241 (kohler k series 10 hp) i have a suspension that it would never work. the cub engine actually does a pretty good job with a 60" deck, but if you are mowing really deep grass your going to have to make a pass with the deck raised some to knock it down. if you maintain your lawn and mow it at least once every two weeks you will never have a lack of power.


 
You're absolutely right about the horsepower thing, todays 25hp lawnmowers are a joke compared to your old Cub


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## Redbarn (Oct 6, 2014)

Okie1 said:


> Very nice F/S project, looks great. I hate to think what those batteries cost, but I venture to guess almost as much as the machine cost new, unless you work for the company



Actually, the project cost less than a new tractor. I got the batteries on clearance when new, lighter, smaller batteries became available. So the cost was not too steep. Lithium batteries have dropped in cost but are still a high initial cost. However, they last much, much longer than lead acid batteries and I calculated that they are cost effective after 7 years. 
As a "Father/Son" project, this was priceless.


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