# Pellet stove modifications



## Birdman Jack (Dec 13, 2009)

Just wondered if anyone else has modified their pellet stove to do more. I have modified mine to heat the water in my boiler. I made a couple of saddle bag heaters to mount on the sides which keeps my water pipes at about 70 degrees Fahrenheit to stop them from freezing. I did no actual mods to the stove just mounted these on the outside to pick up the excess heat. I was worried that the utility room would freeze because the boiler was not running. Keeps the room at about 45 degrees. Was just wondering if there are anymore tinkers out there.


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## BJN644 (Dec 13, 2009)

birdman, we need pictures!


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 13, 2009)

you need pictures Will add them in a few.


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## jtakeman (Dec 13, 2009)

Sounds cleaver!


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 13, 2009)

BJN644 said:
			
		

> birdman, we need pictures!


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 13, 2009)

Side view.


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 13, 2009)

Better view of how it was done.


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## caledoniacars (Dec 13, 2009)

that's why i keep coming back here.  great idea!!


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## timjk69 (Dec 14, 2009)

Very nice! So what kind of heaters were those?


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## BDPVT (Dec 14, 2009)

Nicely done! Curious about how hot  the water gets? How do you circulate the hot water through your utility room?


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 14, 2009)

timjk69 said:
			
		

> Very nice! So what kind of heaters were those?



The heaters are nothing more than short pieces of baseboard heating tube I soldered together with elbows. I cut three short runs for both sides then shoved the fins together like you would a deck of cards. I figured the tighter the better for heat transfer. I am in the process of making metal boxes to cover them. The boxes will be insulated so they should bring the temp of the water up to around 80 degrees. It may even be better than that. I turned on my circulator pump for the furnace and it keeps the water moving around the house and back thru the hot water coil of the furnace. It only took two days to get the furnace up to 70 degrees. The radiation from the furnace and the pipes keep my utility room around 50 degrees so I know nothing will freeze. I was afraid I was going to have to have an electrict heater down there and this would cut into what I was saving. Be glad to answer any other questions you might have or help in any way I can.


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## imacman (Dec 14, 2009)

Birdman, that's a great way to keep the pipes from freezing.  What do you think the whole thing cost to build?


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## hossthehermit (Dec 14, 2009)

Fine idea, as long as you remember that your stove is putting out "x" BTUs. They can warm the water, OR, they can warm they air. They're YOUR BTUs, do with them as you wish. BUT, that's just MY opinion. I'm not real sure where the "excess heat" comes from, anyway.


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## littlesmokey (Dec 14, 2009)

I, too, think that is a great idea. Just wish you would have chosen a better title for the thread. Stove Addenda, Stove use Upgrade, Improved Usage. Modifying Stove on this part of the forum will bring out the worst in all of us.

I think I will try an adaptation on one of my stoves like that. Great idea.


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 15, 2009)

macman said:
			
		

> Birdman, that's a great way to keep the pipes from freezing.  What do you think the whole thing cost to build?



The build cost for me was zero. I had the elbows and the pipe with the fins was scrap someone brought me home. But if I had to guess I would say about fourty bucks with everything new. I am a scrounger.


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 15, 2009)

hossthehermit said:
			
		

> Fine idea, as long as you remember that your stove is putting out "x" BTUs. They can warm the water, OR, they can warm they air. They're YOUR BTUs, do with them as you wish. BUT, that's just MY opinion. I'm not real sure where the "excess heat" comes from, anyway.


 
My stove puts out more than enough heat to do both. I have about 1400 sq feet to heat and the stove is rated for fifteen. The utility room is part of the 1400. The sides of the stove get up over 300 degrees and it is strickly radiant on the two sides. That is where my heaters are mounted. The stove is in a room that is 10 by 15 so the radiant heat just makes the room real hot. I have big openings on two walls to circulate the heat that the pellet fan pushes out the front. There is no loss and all the heat is used and I can still use this room without sitting here in my underware. We keep it at about 73 in most of the house. Makes it real cofortable for us older folks.


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 15, 2009)

littlesmokey said:
			
		

> I, too, think that is a great idea. Just wish you would have chosen a better title for the thread. Stove Addenda, Stove use Upgrade, Improved Usage. Modifying Stove on this part of the forum will bring out the worst in all of us.
> 
> I think I will try an adaptation on one of my stoves like that. Great idea.



I am not done yet. I am going to make an extension for the hopper. Right now it holds almost 40 lbs. Literature says it does but I have never been able to get a full bag into it. Will go straight up so it will hold about 80 lbs. The way the lid is put on I just have to unbolt it and use it on the extension. Just have to make sure everything is sealed good. Another thing I want to do is put a sight glass in the extended hopper so I do not have to open it to check it. These are all simple mods that can be done on the cheep. It does help to know someone who works in a machine shop. My son in law does so he will be bending the hopper extension fo me out of 1/8 steel which is what the stove is made of. As for the title it was all I could think of at the time. :cheese:


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## summit (Dec 15, 2009)

I had a customer who put a hot H2O coil in his P38 once...


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## GVA (Dec 15, 2009)

I installed a clutch on my auger motor.... Got tired of replacing them


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 15, 2009)

RETIRED GVA said:
			
		

> I installed a clutch on my auger motor.... Got tired of replacing them



I would like to know what you used for a clutch just out of curiosity. You must burn corn.


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## MCPO (Dec 15, 2009)

That`s a good example of ingenuity. Might not be the best looking stove in a finished room but if it works and you are happy, that`s all that matters. 
I modified my blower fan wiring so it didn`t turn off automatically when runing on the lowest setting. It was a bit involved since the modified fan wiring has to be isolated from the control board to prevent ruining the board.


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 15, 2009)

summit said:
			
		

> I had a customer who put a hot H2O coil in his P38 once...



I thought about a coil but did not want to alter the stove by drilling holes in it. My second thought was if the power went out the coil would become super heated and could become dangerous with not enough time to cool the water down enough. The way it is now I put a battery backup on my circulator that lasts for about 15 minutes which should be enough time to really cool the water down.


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 18, 2009)

It is -3 degrees here in central ny and the pellet stove is going full bore. House is around 70 degrees and my utility room is at 41 degrees. this is the first real test and everything is doing great. Thought I was going to have to turn on the oil guzzeler if it got this cold. Temps must be down on most of the east coast tonite. A bag or two of pellets a day will keep the fuel trucks away. :cheese:


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## maglite67 (Dec 18, 2009)

A guy at work took a harman p68 drilled two 2" holes and places a heat exchanger inside the stove and metered the water throught so he would not cool down the stove to much and heats his hot water with it.  He still gets alot of heat out of it also.


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## maglite67 (Dec 18, 2009)

A guy at work took a harman p68 drilled two 2” holes and places a heat exchanger inside the stove and metered the water throught so he would not cool down the stove to much and heats his hot water with it.  He still gets alot of heat out of it also.


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 18, 2009)

Does he have a way to kill the stove if the power goes out so it does not super heat the water? That was one of my fears if a coil was placed inside. I had a regular wood boiler once and when the power went out it really hammered before I could get the fire out. Got rid of it for that reason.


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## Elad (Dec 18, 2009)

I too been thinking of heating water as well. Nice idea using baseboard radiators 
I was thinking about using automobile A/C condensers to capture the heat.
The Harman p68 sides and top are super hot! I have fans on both sides and above
blowing at a 45^ angle to move some heat away.
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One thing that bugs me about the Harman P68 is the lack of a remote temp control.
*There is only a temp dial on the control panel to set*.
 No good if you want a timer/setback thermostat. 
I am gone 14hrs/day working so I lower the temp dial before I leave
and turn it up when I get home. But it takes hours to re-heat the house
and by that time, am already in bed fast asleep.

 I'll be making a mod for the Harman P68 to use a dual temp thermostats so that
my home will be nice n toasty when I get home without burning fuel all day long.

There are a few ways I can do this as I know electronics, but it means I would
be voiding the warranty so am on hold before I start modifying the electronic
control board unless they give me approval (yea, right...).
 I yet to take any readings even to get the parts needed.

A simple way (assuming one has a time-control thermostat) is to have the 
remote thermostat to trigger a resistor across the control board's temp 
potentiometer (pot).
 I will need to take resistance readings on the current pot set at 75' to get the 
base value so that by adding a resistor in parallel (through remote stat) to equal
the same value while pot is set at 60' in order to trick the board so that it thinks
its set at 75'.






Another way with more control is to get a 3 pole contact relay and have it totally
bypass the boards temp pot when remote stat timer kicks in. 
Would require another potentiometer, but there cheap. Would also require cutting
the circuit boards contact tracers to the original pot.






The relay will be very small as there is no current to worry about.
I've already complained to Harman as it would of been simple & cheap for them
to include a remote stat control. They claim to be high-tech, but its not user friendly!


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 18, 2009)

Elad said:
			
		

> I too been thinking of heating water as well. Nice idea using baseboard radiators
> I was thinking about using automobile A/C condensers to capture the heat.
> The Harman p68 sides and top are super hot! I have fans on both sides and above
> blowing at a 45^ angle to move some heat away.
> ...



I see what you are attempting to do. It has me thinking there might be a simpler way to do it but my brain is not fuctioning this morning. I am going to see what I can come up with if you do not mind. I love this stuff. Most of it is so simple you have to wonder why they did not do it in the first place.


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## MCPO (Dec 18, 2009)

Pellet stoves are made expressly for heating the exchanger and blowing hot air out through them. I just can`t imagine any water heating retrofit to any pellet stove that would make sense with regards to efficiency.  
 Pellet stoves are nothing like a good wood stove that produces copius amounts of heat during much of the burn cycle. 
 That said I can appreciate and applaud the efforts. It`s a lot of fun tinkering and even more so when it works , if only to a certain degree. If he can get both enough heat and heat water with it he has to be eating pellets like crazy since pellets stoves are usually marginal heating devices at best.


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 18, 2009)

One thing that bugs me about the Harman P68 is the lack of a remote temp control.

I was only looking at part of your diagram this morning and thought the relay could be eliminated. Brain was not yet awake. You do have the simplest solution and it should work good. Mine is set up basicaly the same. Everything is set to high so when the stat calls for heat it must ramp up on the cicuirt board and then drop down to cut back the augar motors. Mine must have a relay built in.


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 18, 2009)

Gio said:
			
		

> Pellet stoves are made expressly for heating the exchanger and blowing hot air out through them. I just can`t imagine any water heating retrofit to any pellet stove that would make sense with regards to efficiency.
> Pellet stoves are nothing like a good wood stove that produces copius amounts of heat during much of the burn cycle.
> That said I can appreciate and applaud the efforts. It`s a lot of fun tinkering and even more so when it works , if only to a certain degree. If he can get both enough heat and heat water with it he has to be eating pellets like crazy since pellets stoves are usually marginal heating devices at best.



I use my pellet stove as primary heat and use just two bags of pellets a day and that is with the water it is heating.The most I have used is two and a half and that was last night. House is at 72 to 74 most of the time. I will admit with it being -4 degrees last night and windy it did drop down to 68 in the house but that is what I kept the oil funace set at when we used that. I assume you are using pellets and fuel. You must have an older stove because I know at least four or five of us all using about the same. If I was using four bags a day then I would use the oil because it would be a little cheaper.


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## MCPO (Dec 18, 2009)

birdman Jack said:
			
		

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I`m sorry to have lost track of the whole thread (first page) and I now see that original picture you posted. Yeah, I have no doubts now about what you say you are doing.  For some reason I was thinking you were heating water to hotter temps than what you actually wrote. My apologies. 
  I know first hand that stove puts out a lot of heat and plenty on the top and sides , much more than my Harman.


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 18, 2009)

Gio said:
			
		

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No need for an apoligy. We are here to learn and help each other. I would rather be critizied if I can get something out of it I can learn and I have learned a lot on here.


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## Panhandler (Dec 18, 2009)

birdman Jack said:
			
		

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I made a hopper extension for my PDVC before last season. I used .030 sheet metal. Stitch welded a box the same dimensions as the original hopper (21.5" x 9 3/8) 14" high and sealed all inside corners with high temp RTV. The 14 " box holds about an additional 45-50 lbs. I put a flange inside the top and bottom of the box. I used gasket material and RTV between the top of the original hopper and sheet metal screwed it. I used the original hopper lid on top with gasket material (like the original hopper seal). Rustoleum High Temp Grill Paint just happens to be the exact color as the Englander stove. Real happy with it. I was thinking that 1/8 steel might be a little heavy for this purpose. Just thinking it might be overkill. Wish I would have thought of the sightglass idea. Might be project for the spring!


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 18, 2009)

Panhandler said:
			
		

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You must have the same unit I have. My son in law works in a machine shop and got the pieces cut for the heater boxes today out of 1/16 steel. I gave him the measurements tonight for the hopper which will also be 1/16 steel. Everything is laser cut so it comes in nice pieces with no burrs. I have access to a couple wire feed welders so welding them up is not a problem. I take it your hopper lid was screwed on to the original hopper like mine is. This makes it simple to just take it off and use it again. Will post pictures as I get things put together. Would like to see a picture of yours if you can.


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## Panhandler (Dec 18, 2009)

birdman Jack said:
			
		

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I also used a wire feeder (MIG) to weld mine. I just stitch welded it as my steel was galvanized and nasty to weld, besides it's not really a structural piece. Yes, I just sheet metal screwed the original hopper lid hinge to the new piece. I also cut a narrow, thin piece of metal to cover the old screw holes in the original hopper and secured it with RTV (silicone). Try this link I posted last season. I'm having computer problems so it's the best I can do right now.

http://picasaweb.google.com/panhand...nsion?authkey=zO7bFvGIz7s#5265333883495816626


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## stoveguy2esw (Dec 18, 2009)

although in my official capacity i cannot condone mod's to our products , it appears this was not actually done to the stove as it was when uncrated , pretty neat idea. i see no problems as the stove's intended design was not altered. this unit in particular is likley a great model to do this with as the whole front of the stove and frontal parts of the sides are part of the firebox so radient heat is present in abundance. pretty neat idea!


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 19, 2009)

stoveguy2esw said:
			
		

> although in my official capacity i cannot condone mod's to our products , it appears this was not actually done to the stove as it was when uncrated , pretty neat idea. i see no problems as the stove's intended design was not altered. this unit in particular is likley a great model to do this with as the whole front of the stove and frontal parts of the sides are part of the firebox so radient heat is present in abundance. pretty neat idea!



You guys make a great product and I am proud to say I own one. This being my first pellet stove and only having it almost a couple of months I love it. We have cold temps now and it keeps us snug as the bug in the rug. I have suggested this to a couple of friends who wondered how good it could work being as cheap as it was. When they stop by and actually see it working it really impresses them. The thing that gets them the most is the fact it is easy to install chimney and all. Then I tell them I have only burned five gallons of oil this year and that was before I got the unit. It is nice to get something that actually works like it is supposed to. I knew I was taking a chance puting the heaters on the stove that is why no holes drilled. I did not see how this could effect the stove in any way. All I know now is that it is even better than before and you have a customer who will buy again. Keep up the good work.


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## GVA (Dec 19, 2009)

birdman Jack said:
			
		

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I can't remember the name off the top of my head but here was an old thread.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/3441/
I'll dig some photos up this week if you're interested.
I figured Harman or someone would have looked into this further, it wouldn't add much cost to the stoves.
Oh well


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## stoveguy2esw (Dec 19, 2009)

birdman Jack said:
			
		

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well... damn , jack ,nice to hear my friend. i know its a good stove , used one for 5 years myself,(i install new models to learn them when they come out ,hated to pull my "c model" though , was a fantastic heater , will be heating a home soon as it will be donated to charity) . an indorsement like that is priceless. i'll just have to pass that one on makes good "bulliten board material" for my boys out in the shop , they get a real rise out of posts like that. i appreciate it a bunch im sure the "line animals" (their title according to them , not mine) will hoist one for ya when they read it


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## 603BOB (Dec 19, 2009)

For Birdman Jack and Elad

I use night setback on my Harman Advance - no internal connections - just a variable resistor switched in parallel with the thermistor probe will lower the temperature. I use a 50K pot and set it about 30 K for a 6 or 7 degree set back.
The P68 uses the same probe setup.  I switch the extra resistor in with a battery operated clock thermostat used as a switch only. Program the thermostat for 90 degrees when I want the lower temperature, and 50 degrees when I want the normal operation.
Has worked flawlessly for several years.


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 19, 2009)

603BOB said:
			
		

> For Birdman Jack and Elad
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> I use night setback on my Harman Advance - no internal connections - just a variable resistor switched in parallel with the thermistor probe will lower the temperature. I use a 50K pot and set it about 30 K for a 6 or 7 degree set back.
> The P68 uses the same probe setup.  I switch the extra resistor in with a battery operated clock thermostat used as a switch only. Program the thermostat for 90 degrees when I want the lower temperature, and 50 degrees when I want the normal operation.
> Has worked flawlessly for several years.



Looks like this thread is going to help a couple people after all. That sounds pretty simple. No need to cut traces on the board and it can be put back if you want to sell it. I know a lot of people don't trust things that have been altered because they don't understand why it was done.


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 21, 2009)

Panhandler said:
			
		

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I must have missed your post but I went to look at the picture and the stove is the same one I have. I am ready to weld up the covers for my heater boxes so I should have them on in the next day or so. Metal should be here for the hopper this week. Should look just like yours. I will post the pictures of it finished as soon as it is done.


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## pellet (Dec 21, 2009)

603BOB said:
			
		

> For Birdman Jack and Elad
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> I use night setback on my Harman Advance - no internal connections - just a variable resistor switched in parallel with the thermistor probe will lower the temperature. I use a 50K pot and set it about 30 K for a 6 or 7 degree set back.
> The P68 uses the same probe setup.  I switch the extra resistor in with a battery operated clock thermostat used as a switch only. Program the thermostat for 90 degrees when I want the lower temperature, and 50 degrees when I want the normal operation.
> Has worked flawlessly for several years.




This sounds interesting!  But I need it simplified down to my level.  It sounds like there are no connections to the stove itself, just in the setback and origional stat.  Could you explain in detail....maybe a step by step how to.  This is USEFUL!  Thanks!


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## 603BOB (Dec 21, 2009)

Check out this thread - there is a schematic on one of the posts.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/7790/P22/


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## pellet (Dec 22, 2009)

Thanks, interesting reading.


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## Elad (Dec 25, 2009)

603BOB

Thanks Bob 

*So simple an idea*, why I never thought of even.
 Why I love forums. Great minds at work making this one quite humble...


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 25, 2009)

Elad said:
			
		

> 603BOB
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If you see a great mind on here let me know. We will make sure he gets the pellet award. That is the highest good for nothing award you can get.


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## Al in MN (Dec 25, 2009)

check this out.
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/hsh/1490807261.html


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## Elad (Dec 26, 2009)

birdman Jack said:
			
		

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WHAT? A Nothing Award?


How about this one at least?


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## 603BOB (Dec 26, 2009)

Thank You - Thank You. I also need to thank several hundred people - in alphabetical order.
But I will wait to do that, after the campaign contributions begin to roll in.
I promise change - change that your pellet stove can believe in.
When I take over - there will be no more pellet pigs - no need - pellets will just appear on your pellet pile as needed.
Your stove will be cleaned by the new department of stove cleaning - the window washed, and the ashes empty. Nobody will be denied service, regardless of existing conditions and defects. 
This will reduce the deficit, increase employment, save the polar bears, and put an end to intercontinental drift.

I was awarded what ? What am I running for ?


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## imacman (Dec 26, 2009)

603BOB said:
			
		

> Thank You - Thank You. I also need to thank several hundred people - in alphabetical order.
> But I will wait to do that, after the campaign contributions begin to roll in.
> I promise change - change that your pellet stove can believe in.
> When I take over - there will be no more pellet pigs - no need - pellets will just appear on your pellet pile as needed.
> ...



And don't tell me....a newly appointed (but not voted on) Pellet Czar, that no one will check the background on.


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## Elad (Dec 26, 2009)

Hehehehehe

He saved my butt a lot of trouble and no voiding the warranty 
I ended up using a 10Kohm resistor to set it back with the digital thermostat controller  Works great!

Tis my award for 603BOB


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## rowerwet (Dec 26, 2009)

Al in MN said:
			
		

> check this out.
> http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/hsh/1490807261.html


so who is gonna call him first? I already have a pellet boiler, and I paid $7,200 for my pellet boiler, $2,500 is a steal.....


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 26, 2009)

Now that my stove water heater is working so good I am about to hook my homemade windmill into the loop. The stove is idling along today because it is so warm. It is 38 here today. Only used part of a bag of pellets yesterday and dumped the rest in this morning. House is at 72 degrees. Hooking the thermastat up was one of the best things I ever did. I hit the big 60 today so I am free from all chores and I am doing what I want. I hope everyone had a nice xmas. I know I did.


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## Birdman Jack (Dec 26, 2009)

rowerwet said:
			
		

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I can save you even more. with it being so warm here today I think I will sell the extra heat I am not using. For a hundred bucks I will put an hours worth of heat in an envelope and mail it to you. All you have to do when you get it is warm it up to the temperature you want and use it. No shipping charges and no packaging fee. There is a limit on how many you can get. I only have a limited amount so will only sell two per household. They are going fast so please get your order in now. Cash only.

                                                                                                                                                         God bless the Birdman


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## Birdman Jack (Jan 19, 2010)

Here is the hopper extension I built. It holds about another bag and a three quarters making for a total of two and three quarter bags. I built in a sight glass so I could tell when there was a little over a bag left in the stove. I built it so I did not have to drill any holes in the stove. It uses the old lid holes to fasten the back of it down and I made two fingers on the front to hook tightly under the existing lip. I reused the lid on the extension and it looks like the whole thing came with the stove. The purchase of the Englander was one of the best thing I have ever done it heats my whole house and now I don't have to fill it twice a day. The only thing I am sorry about is that I waited so long to get one.


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## MCPO (Jan 19, 2010)

Honestly, you deserve a medal for what you have created here ! And probably a blue ribbon for any wife who would allow it in the family / living room. But I know you didn`t build it for looks alone. Form above function isn`t the recipe here.


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## MCPO (Jan 19, 2010)

Being that the sides of the PDVC gets so hot it`s understandable why you decided to extract heat off them to heat water.
 Since they aren`t part of the heat exchanger I wonder how sheet metal side panels (similar to the optional clearance panel on some stoves )with the top and bottom open would work regarding convection ?


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## Panhandler (Jan 19, 2010)

birdman Jack said:
			
		

> Here is the hopper extension I built. It holds about another bag and a three quarters making for a total of two and three quarter bags. I built in a sight glass so I could tell when there was a little over a bag left in the stove. I built it so I did not have to drill any holes in the stove. It uses the old lid holes to fasten the back of it down and I made two fingers on the front to hook tightly under the existing lip. I reused the lid on the extension and it looks like the whole thing came with the stove. The purchase of the Englander was one of the best thing I have ever done it heats my whole house and now I don't have to fill it twice a day. The only thing I am sorry about is that I waited so long to get one.



Except for the sightglass(and of course the heat exchanger), almost identical to my extension. The 40 lb hopper capacity was main problem I had with the stove. This past weekend I cut out a 4 inch square on the right side to easily clean the room blower and siliconed a 6 inch patch over it when I finished cleaning the blower. I just use a eyeglass screwdriver to gently scrape the fins and a piece of 1/4 tubing attached to shop vac. It wasn't just that the blower was hard to get to, it was the fact that the holes the sheet metal screws go in do get worn over time. The first time I cleaned my combustion blower, one of the screws broke off. The holes for sheet metal screws just aren't meant to be used forever.


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## Birdman Jack (Jan 19, 2010)

Gio said:
			
		

> Honestly, you deserve a medal for what you have created here ! And probably a blue ribbon for any wife who would allow it in the family / living room. But I know you didn`t build it for looks alone. Form above function isn`t the recipe here.


It is not in the family room it is in my computer room. My man cave where the guys hangout and check to see what I am working on. I always have something new and interesting for them to check out. I think the thing is beautiful. Wife does not mind because we keep the house up around 74 degrees with just the stove. It looks even better with no oil bill at all this year. It is a thing of beauty.


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## Birdman Jack (Jan 19, 2010)

Panhandler said:
			
		

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It is only 12" higher but it holds a lot because it is square. I also emailed Englander to make sure adding it would not void my warrantee. They said no problem. They must enjoy what they do and make money to.


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## MCPO (Jan 19, 2010)

birdman Jack said:
			
		

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I`d love to see it myself. The oil bill (lack of it) has to be the frosting on the cake.


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## Birdman Jack (Jan 22, 2010)

Finally got the heater covers put together and mounted. Added insulation on the inside and I hope this will raise the temp on the water a few more degrees. The reflection on top of the stove is from the mirrored tape around the sight glass.


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## imacman (Jan 22, 2010)

That is some wild lookin stove Birdman.  The guys at Englander never dreamed of such a thing.......LOL.

Keep us up-to-date on the performance.


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## Birdman Jack (Jan 23, 2010)

macman said:
			
		

> That is some wild lo stove Birdman.  The guys at Englander never dreamed of such a thing.......LOL.
> 
> Keep us up-to-date on the performance.


I could not have done any of this without permission from the guys at Englander. I did not want to void my warranty because the stove is only a few months old. I emailed them each time to make sure I was OK before I put anything on. I think I am their secret r&d department. You do have to admit they not only make a great stove but anyone else would have voided my warranty for even asking. Will post my readings in a couple days to let you know how I make out.


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## Meneillys (Feb 9, 2010)

Here is the monster in my fathers basement. We took a quad Mt Vernon and converted it into a furnace and added a magic heat.




That is powered by a 14" duct fan and is controlled with an AC thermostat set to turn on and off at 115.


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## thz123 (Feb 9, 2010)

I would like to figure a way to get more heat from my quadrafire castile. I would like to figure a way to blow the heat that accumulates between the fire box and the cast iron sides of the unit. There is a 2 inch gap on both sides with vent at top on both sides. Has anyone done any modificatios to the castile to get more heat? I like what they did with the mount vernon, can you explain the fan you installed on the vent pipe? Thanks for the help.


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## Meneillys (Feb 12, 2010)

That is just the standard 6" magic heat. We used reducers and silicone to install it and the basement went from being 63 to 70. In return it helps keep the floors warmer.


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## MCPO (Feb 12, 2010)

Meneillys Woodland Products said:
			
		

> That is just the standard 6" magic heat. We used reducers and silicone to install it and the basement went from being 63 to 70. In return it helps keep the floors warmer.


 Other than an improved heat exchanger, this is probably the only way possible to get significantly more heat from a pellet stove.   
 Since the inlet and outlet are quite large I don`t see it as a restriction , but who would want it in their living room?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Feb 12, 2010)

Meneilly’s Woodland Products

How long has that magic heat been operating and how much ash accumulates in it and in the tee with it operating?


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## Meneillys (Feb 13, 2010)

We have had it in for a month now and it has a cleaning rod like stoves do. My father gives it a pull when he fills it and so far every thing is working good. When we do the full stove cleaning we are going to remove it and see what it is like inside. It shouldn't have a problem because it is just fly ash not something that likes to build up and catch fire. I will take pics while cleaning. We are starting to think about adding another one above because the exhaust is still hot to the touch.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Feb 13, 2010)

Thank you for the reply.  

I'd be quite interested in how it all works out when you get around to cleaning things.


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## Turbo-Quad (Feb 13, 2010)

Meneillys Woodland Products said:
			
		

> Here is the monster in my fathers basement. We took a quad Mt Vernon and converted it into a furnace and added a magic heat.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Hows that Magic Heat working?  I have one off of my woodburner and wanted to incorporate it into my pellet stove chimney pipe but I was worried about the amount of ash that might build up in it.

Sorry about that.  I was on page 3 when I saw the picture of your heat reclaimer and got all excited.  I see you have already answered.  Thanks.  Please keep us updated because I would really like to do the same thing with mine.

On a side note:  That must be a bear to get into to clean?  I have  a Mount Vernon and I have to clean it daily.


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## Meneillys (Feb 13, 2010)

The blue and orange part is on the old door hinge so it swings open just like the cast door. The flexible pipe lets it move also. We get temps on the sheet metal around 175. That is what happens when you don't buy the furnace you should have to save money.


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## Birdman Jack (Feb 13, 2010)

Meneillys Woodland Products said:
			
		

> The blue and orange part is on the old door hinge so it swings open just like the cast door. The flexible pipe lets it move also. We get temps on the sheet metal around 175. That is what happens when you don't buy the furnace you should have to save money.


How about a side shot so we can see it better. You use and do what you have to. Just have to make sure it is safe. The little guys do it then the big boys and their laywers see if it is worth stealing the design.


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## smwilliamson (Feb 15, 2010)

I want to modify my shop pellet stove to power a closed circuit boiler which would power this a mike brown 1hp steam engine which would turn a 500w generator. I have an emergency connection terminal in the garage to power the whole house...just plug and play. FREE ELECTRICITY! Trying to sort out the peices.


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## Turbo-Quad (Dec 8, 2010)

Meneillys said:
			
		

> Here is the monster in my fathers basement. We took a quad Mt Vernon and converted it into a furnace and added a magic heat.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



OK we need and update on how the mods are performing?


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## Meneillys (Jan 12, 2011)

Well it has been a year now. Did full take every thing apart cleaning and the only problem we had was no clean out T on the pipe. That is getting changed. When we cleaned the Magic Heat the ash of course went down the pipe and into the exhaust fan so we had to clean the fan two times. I would take more pictures but my mother freaked out that I had taken a picture of the messy basement and forbid me from having a camera in her house again.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 12, 2011)

LOL, yup they can do that.

While dust may protect the furniture, nobody outside of the family need know about it.


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## Birdman Jack (Oct 3, 2011)

My heat bill for my modified pellet stove was 735.00 for the entire season. Used no oil at all and stayed warm as could be. Used about three tons of pellets. Anyone else got any figures to post? Pellets where I get them went up $10 dollars this year.


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## reburton (Jan 15, 2012)

Seems like you could do more , with less, if you would effectively recover heat from the exhaust (more than the magic heat crap)
Why not make a water coil add add it INTO the exhaust pipe, recover those lost btu's? That way, no worry about cooling down of burn box, no worry of effecting BTU's to heat space, etc. You would then be reclaiming whats getting shot outside, in a more effcient manner than that $70 chinese crap box.


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## jtakeman (Jan 15, 2012)

Careful with the exhuast temp reduction. You could cause issues if your not careful. Watch out for the black shiney stuff.


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## reburton (Jan 15, 2012)

Personally, I don't see a water coil inside the exhaust lowering temps enough to cause the "black shiney stuff" you speak of, especially if burning a good qaulity hardwood pellet.
But , if concerned, I would place it as close to outlet of stove as possible and before a clean out tee, so the remaining pipe that could become cool enough to form such stuff, can be cleaned with ease.


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## smoke show (Jan 16, 2012)

update thread when perfected.


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