# Beckett Heat Manager \ Intellicon HW+



## kbjelka

Anyone used one of these?  I bought an Intellicon HW+ which is a more advanced version of the Beckett Heat Manager.  Have not installed it yet but it looks pretty straight forward.  Plenty of info on the Beckett site and from what I've gathered Intellicon makes the units for Beckett.  They are widely said to save between 10% and 20% on your annual oil consumption.  Due to my floor plan I am still burning oil in one of my two zones and hoping to squeeze a little more heat out of a fill up.


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## steam man

I use an Intellidyne model. They do delay the burner on by scavenging residual heat from the boiler in the economizing mode. A higher mass  boiler will work better depending on your loads. It does keep mine from short cycling as much. A lot of people are putting them in this year.

Mike


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## DaveM195352

glad to see this post - I am researching units to add to my oil furnace also.

Would like to expand your topic to cover ALL ECONOMIZERS - including outdoor resets - such as the Tekmar 260 and etc.

Please tell us what kind of unit you have and your experiences with it.

Thanks
Dave in Maine


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## steam man

The Tekmar 260 with outdoor reset should save more at higher cost. More "upscale" so to speak.

Mike


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## kbjelka

steam man said:
			
		

> I use an Intellidyne model. They do delay the burner on by scavenging residual heat from the boiler in the economizing mode. A higher mass  boiler will work better depending on your loads. It does keep mine from short cycling as much. A lot of people are putting them in this year.
> 
> Mike



Hi Mike,
How was the install?  Can you post a picture?  I"m thinking of mounting mine right off one of the knock outs in the aquastat.  Does your model have an LCD on the front?  The HW+ has an lcd that calculates calls for heat vs burner suppression into % of savings.


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## steam man

I will be getting on a plane in a few hours so I am pressed for time as a far as pictures. But it is an easy install-just read the directions and fully understand the wiring from aquastat to the burner. My boiler has a power venter so I had to make sure that it was installed before the power vent came on. A little more to it that they don't address in the instructions. My wiring scheme has a J-box on top of the boiler where all the wires terminate so I just put it there and added an extension to the box. I have an indirect so I didn't use the second sensor. I don't have the led function as I got it off ebay last year for about 90 bucks. The savings info would be interesting but I saved about half right out of the chute so what the hell.

If I remember correctly your boiler has to be able to be set to start below 140 deg and stop above 180 so the manager can manage the differential for scavenging. My boiler is a cold start so the differential is not an issue. I am not sure how it manages a tankless coil set up.
Mike


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## kbjelka

Thanks Mike,
Mine is a tank-less coil set up and I did purchase the extra probe.  I believe my upper and lower limits are 16080.   All together I paid 215 including the extra probe for the THW.  My father in-law is having the oil company install his today so I am hoping to use his setup  for any reference I need, provided they don't do some botch job.  I think mine is on the more complex end of the installs but still looks like I can tackle it.  Not sure what my savings will be either as I am only running one zone due to the pellet stove.  With the price of oil I think my payback on the economizer and the stove is getting close to never. Thanks again for the info and have a great trip.


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## velvetfoot

I'll add to this per DaveM's request.
My 5 yr old Burnham boiler came with Argo controls.
I put on an outdoor reset from Argo for a little more than 100 bucks as I recall.
There are no displays or adjustments or anything, but I think it works.
It was easy to install.
I think it was down to 130F or so when it's warm the other week when I was watching the oil guy do the annual checkup, but I'm not sure.
Hot water heating has priority, but I think that's choose-able.
It's been a while now that's I've looked at it.
http://www.argoindustries.com/product_detail.asp?key=61


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## kbjelka

Installed the Intellicon - HW+ today and waiting to gather some stats before I make any adjustments.  The install was pretty easy.  Tomorrow I'll pretty everything up and get a picture.  Hoping to realize at least 10% savings.  I'll keep you all posted.


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## EricV

Any further reviews of these units?


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## imacman

EricV said:
			
		

> Any further reviews of these units?



Not sure that I'd call my thoughts on this a "review", but here goes:

As you can see in pic #2, I self-installed one of the older (non LCD display....just indicator lights, but works the same) Intellicon units on my 24 yr. old Weil-McLain oil burner almost 4 yrs. ago, and I will say in a nutshell, it works just as advertised.  I know I have cut my HHO usage down by AT LEAST 15-20% since installing it.   Well worth the $$ I spent on it, and even though I'm not an electrician, it wasn't hard to do....took me about 1 hr (and that was including a LOT of double-checking of my wiring job).

I really like that it cuts down on short cycling.


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## kbjelka

EricV said:
			
		

> Any further reviews of these units?



Here's my take...

Mine has been in since last fall and reports 29.9% savings over the time period.  I installed a pellet stove at the same time so it’s hard to pinpoint savings but it definitely works as advertised and I believe the savings are substantial.  I am pretty sure it has paid for itself already.  My install required the domestic hot water sensor.  Install and programming was pretty straight forward.  Only tricky part I found was getting the insulation neatly wrapped around the sensors.  Posted on this last year when oil was high and got surprisingly little interest. I bought one of the "fancy" LCD units and had a competition with some guys at work to see who's installed looked nicest.  I think mine won.  The nice thing about the LCD unit is there is a lot of programming changes available if you're into fine tuning.

I say go for it, it certainly will pay for itself in time.


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## imacman

Nice install GroundHog!  Just curious why the LCD says "Invalid" on the screen in the first pic... :question:


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## kbjelka

macman said:
			
		

> Nice install GroundHog!  Just curious why the LCD says "Invalid" on the screen in the first pic... :question:



Thanks for the complement Macman!  That picture was taken when I installed and as I recall it takes something like 72 hours to gather enough stats for the display.  Until the the 72 hours are up it says "Invalid" which was a real nail biter.  That lack of instant display gratification was really the only thing I disliked, otherwise this thing has worked like a charm.  A true zero maintenance item which is more than I can say for my pellet stove.


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## imacman

Groundhog said:
			
		

> .......A true zero maintenance item which is more than I can say for my pellet stove.



No truer words have been spoken for both things.


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## EricV

Great info, thanks

I'm installing a new oil bloier this fall and will make this unit part of the install.

Eric


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## btuser

I've recently installed a tekmar 260 on my 15 year old oil boiler, 


164k steel single pass boiler downfired to 1.0gpm for an output of about 112btu/hr  
Tekmar 260 with outdoor reset sensor and DHW priority.
Triangle Tube (weil mclain) 40 gallon indirect
Set for fin-type baseboard:  Minimum boiler temp 130 degrees.
Set for AD (automatic differential).

Everything's wired and working. When the indirect tank fires for DHW I get about 15 minutes of firing time and my flue temp hits about 500F.  But  I have noticed, however, is short cycling during one zone's activity.  It's an in-law apt over the garage 800 sqft, and I'm guessing it sucks about 40% of my total oil bill.  The AD setting doesn't seem to be doing me justice, probably because the heat load for the apartment is 1/5 that of the boiler.  I'm getting between 3-4 minutes.  Boiler target temp is 140 and shoots to 145.  Because of the outdoor sensor at 30-45 degrees the top temp is 140.    I'm going to start fiddling with the manual differential, to see if I can get longer firing times.


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## jzr1

just found this thread. Are these worth the money and how much do they cost?


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## btuser

jzr1 said:
			
		

> just found this thread. Are these worth the money and how much do they cost?



That depends.  How much $$$ can you shove in an envelope and mail to my house?

If you burn more than $3000 in fuel a year, and are mechanical enough to install something lilke this yourself I'd say yes.  I picked  up a NIB tekmar 260 for $150 shipped and installed it myself.  To have this item installed for me would have been in the $800-1000 range, because its not a set-and-forget install.  You have to fiddle with it (make multiple trips to the customer's home).  Being a service tech myself I expect a trip to cost money.

I haven't noticed a major difference in oil comsumption after 6 weeks, but the only number I care about is the one at the end of the year.  I will say the heat is more even.  The temperature of the water circulating through the baseboards is 130-150f, and this low draw for heat  seems to cylce the boiler more often for a shorter period (not good).  Flue temp during this cycle is 450f gross which is I know is low , however, it hits 500f gross during DHW production.  I'm slowly boosting the min temp on the boiler, I have no idea if the AD setting is supposed to raise the temp to keep me out of the condensation zone, but it ain't.


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## jzr1

How hard was the install?  Was yours like the others as far as install?  And would you recommend it someone with not much boiler exp.


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## btuser

jzr1 said:
			
		

> How hard was the install?  Was yours like the others as far as install?  And would you recommend it someone with not much boiler exp.



Can you wire a 3 way light switch?  Can you find a breaker or pull a firematic? If the answer is yes I'd say give it a shot but PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE don't ask me if you can do it because I'll say yes to anything.

Speaking about my own install it was a piece of cake but security/access control work is what I do for a living, plus my boiler was 5' from where I located my outdoor reset sensor.  I already rewired the circulators and aquastat for a 6 zone control (sr506), one being DHW set for priority so the 260 was needed.  I'm sure the intellicon would be great depending on where you get your hot water, some models may have a trigger for it, I don't know.  If it runs off your boiler you need DHW or so I'm told. 

Having installed the Tekmar 260 I would seriously look at the intellicon if theres a big difference in money/ease of installing outdoor sensor.   I'm getting the impression the 260 is meant to function with the indoor sensor in lieu of a thermostat, which wouldn't work in my situation because of the different zones/areas are split up in my house.


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## DaveH9

I installed a honeywell Aquatrol aq475 outdoor reset on my  welmclain boiler 3 yrs ago.  Nice unit, it's keeps the boiler from firing on a call for heat but allows the circ to pump. Depending on the outdoor temp/boiler temp differential. I have 4 zones on a 1200sq/ft ranch. There was no need to have the boiler firing for one zone, it really works well. anyone else using this unit? I'd like to know what settings you are using.


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## ghsheat

I have installed quite a bit of the tekmar 260's, Beckett Heat Manager's, Taco boiler resets and the Intellicon HW+ 3250 and even a device known as the "heat timer". Overall they all do what they are supposed to do (except the heat timer!) and that is, to save fuel.  However as far as return on Investment, ease of installation and minimal maintenance I have to go with the Intellicon or Heat Manger, I pay about $200 for the device and charge another $150 for installation. The tekmar usually costs around $500 with another $500 for installation, plus $150 for each subsequent “profiling” visit, unfortunately I have seen all too many times the tekmar unit being “slapped on” to a system and not correctly profiled thereby the savings that should be realized never come to pass. I have also seen condensation issues as the control doesn’t let the boiler achieve correct operating temperatures. The taco integrates nicely with the zone controls and costs around $300 but I am not impressed with its working's for several reasons. As I am an ME by trade I always lean towards the simplest approach which would be the Intellicon, besides the mfg guarantees at least 10% in energy cost savings or they offer a refund on the cost of the device which makes it an easy sell for me.


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## antioil

I have 3 zones and an Amtrol hot water maker. I'm told that the hot water runs as if it were a 4th zone when it calls to heat the water. Can anyone tell me if the intellicon needs any kind of modification to standard installation because of the Amtrol hot water?
Thanks


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## ghsheat

antioil said:
			
		

> I have 3 zones and an Amtrol hot water maker. I'm told that the hot water runs as if it were a 4th zone when it calls to heat the water. Can anyone tell me if the intellicon needs any kind of modification to standard installation because of the Amtrol hot water?
> Thanks



Hi No there are no modifications required (i.e. right out of the box ready) since your domestic hot water is treated as a seperate zone.
here is a link for the Intellicon HW+ 3250 installation instructions..http://www.mediafire.com/?djw4z0whmk2


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## antioil

Recommendations on where to buy?
Thanks


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## ghsheat

antioil said:
			
		

> Recommendations on where to buy?
> Thanks


http://stores.ebay.com/Green-Heating-Systems


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## antioil

ghsheat

Just ordered one...are u the seller?
Thanks


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## btuser

If he's the seller that makes me wonder about the impartiality of his comments.


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## antioil

Received it and attached it to the boiler but the young electrician I had here didn't want to attach the wires. I guess he didn't have enough experience with the aqua stat.
Anyone know of someone who can do it here in Milton, Ma. I really want to get this thing connected.
Thanks


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## Gooserider

btuser said:
			
		

> If he's the seller that makes me wonder about the impartiality of his comments.



I would agree, however it does appear that there are other posters in this thread that have also installed the units with good results...

Gooserider


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## antioil

I was able to wire the intellicon HW myself with help from the seller who provided a schematic for my exact aquastat.
I used the pictures in the post to help me in my install/attach to the aquastat.

Installed it last Thursday evening and I cannot believe the savings 34%.  I keep good track of oil use and degree days so we'll see. I do know this, that something is going on as the area around the boiler is a lot cooler. Don't think I'm producing any unnecessary heat. I would be happy with 15 or 20% but over 30...wow


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## btuser

It looks like you've got the same set up as I do w/ the boiler/indirect.  I opted for a NIB left-over Tekmar260, and I can't say yet whether or not I've saved anythng.  The only number I'm concerned with is the one that comes at the end of the heating season.  Between the wood stove and insulation I saved about 400 gallons last Winter compared to 2007-2008, and it was colder to boot.

After 2 months with the Tekmar I'd be willing to suggest the IntelliCon if the price difference was considerable.  I think the Tekmar takes experience to "dial in".  I also think it counts on the correct everything else to be correct, as in boiler sizing/loading and temperature delta ect.


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## antioil

400 gallons wow

Do you run hot water off your boiler? When you say the same set up do you have an Amtrol hot water maker?'
It looks like I'll be using 150 gallons less than last year and 300 less than '07 which was a year I didn't put in the blown in insulation and had work going on that had the doors opened a lot. Had a stove installed Aug of '08.

Geez maybe I should have had the Intellicon installed before  buying the stove and adding blown in insulation, 

time to watch the Pats and see if Moss is really a head case...


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## btuser

I used close to 1600 in 2007-08, and about 1200 in 2008-09.  Big house.  I've got a trianco indirect fired off a zone.  Originally I started with a steel-tube boiler w/tankless, but with 5 adults + 1 kid there wasn't enough hot water so in it went.  I modified the original aquastat (blue wire)  and installed the indirect.  If I can cut down another 100 gallons a year with the tekmar I'd be happy/surprised.    Come next year I'll be changing out the main boiler to a 3 pass.  Maybe not worth it, seeing how I really, really want to invest in geothermal but its in the plan.

I don't think there's any way to expect 30% from an add-on control.  Just no way.


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## velvetfoot

btuser, what did you do to modify the aquastat?

Thanks.


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## btuser

Let me preface the explaination with the blanket statement "don't ever modify a UL listed device because if you do and burn your house down you're dead meat".

That being said,  a boiler with a tankless coil has a low limit, high limit and differential.  I believe the blue wire in the auquastat is hooked to the low limit, so I inserted a small screwdriver and disengaged it from the spring clamp, capped it, and now my boiler is a cold-start.  I could tell this when my boiler cooled down below 160 degrees and immediately started leaking a flange in the front of the boiler. 

I replaced all my circulators and flanges over the Summer, and now there are no leaks.  However, if you have a 20 year old boiler (like me) you're asking for trouble.   Personally I don't care.  I live on the edge.   That and the Trianco is a welded steel tube boiler block.  If I had a cast iron sectioned boiler (especially a weil mclain) I wouldn't have tried it.


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## velvetfoot

Thanks.  My Burnham V8 oil boiler is about 6 years old and is a cold start boiler with an indirect dhw tank.  I just looked and the aquasat only goes down to 180F which of course disagrees (lower) with the temperature shown on the gauge.  I'll be using that for the hot water heating (with priority) and the Tekmar for controlling the zone heating (I hope).  Hopefully, the Tekmar will allow the boiler to be used at generally lower temperatures by specifying a lower boiler design temp. and/or outdoor design temp., while either the automatic or manual differential adjustment allow longer cycles.


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## antioil

cold start or temperature maintenance?

I know what the terms mean and I can guess at just what happens. How can I tell if my boiler is cold start or not I suspect that it is one that maintains it's temperature. It is pictured above in a post. 

What I'm concerned about is that there is a "I savings" which refers to the last burn savings and the "A Savings" that averages it all out. I keep getting an "INVALID" reading on the I savings but it's seems to be registering an accurate 30% savings. I was told the A savings depends on the I savings so why not an I savings number instead of invalid. Anyone familiar with INTELLICON help me out here in lay man terms.

Thanks


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