# Hotblast used



## vwboomer (Aug 18, 2009)

This is the week I'm going to buy the Daka unit at menards as it's on sale slightly. Then I see a 3 year old used "1300/1400" Hot blast for $350. Assuming it's in good condition, and why wouldn't it be, am I better off buying the Hotblast and saving $500? That pretty much pays for the chimney liner I don't need  but would like to install anyway.


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## Eric Johnson (Aug 18, 2009)

It's pretty easy to overfire and ruin a wood-fired furnace, unlike a boiler, which has a water jacket surrounding the firebox. I'm not sure exactly what to look for as far as damage, but warped steel plate would be a good place to start. Note that the baffle will probably be warped anyway, but that's not a big deal. If you remove the shroud and see either warped steel plate or white residue on it, then it's probably not much of a bargain. If the firebox walls are warped, same deal. If there appears to be new stove paint on exposed metal parts, watch out. OTOH, an $850 new furnace might not be much of a bargain, either. I think you might be ahead longterm to upgrade.


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## vwboomer (Aug 18, 2009)

I'll check the firebox for warping when I go look at it. 
As for an upgrade to a better unit, I had looked at the BJ90 but can't justify spending about $2300 on just the furnace, nevermind the bit of ductwork and chimney liner.  My main furnace is natural gas high efficient and gas is still pretty cheap compared to propane or oil.
The unit that I heated with last year was in the house when I moved in (Nov '08) and is a homebuilt stove with a large expansion chamber/heat exchanger on top of it. An enclosure was built around 3.5 sides of that and 2 squirrel cage fans drew air out of it. And that kept me warm last year though it was a lot of running up and down the steps.
So pretty much anything is an upgrade from there.


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## laynes69 (Aug 18, 2009)

I believe the daka is a little larger than the hotblast 1300/1400. More btus. Either units are basically the same. A firebox w/firebrick and a baffle. No secondary heat exchanger, or secondary burn. Look for white steel on the front of the hotblast, or burnt paint off the sides. This will help you determine if its been possibly overfired. With a 3 year old unit, its doubtful its been abused, but is a possibilty. Either unit would work, but not too efficiently. Expect to use some wood. If the hotblast is in decent shape, then I would probably go that route, to save the money. Whats your square footage? And do you have the clearances for your ductwork?


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## vwboomer (Aug 19, 2009)

Clearances shouldn't be a problem for either the exhaust or the hot air. I haven't been able to find the actual NFPA code but judging by the various manuals I have seen it will be ok.

I went through about 3.5 cords of wood last year using the enclosure and draw fans. The old unit is most definitely not air tight and there was little combustion control. A little scary during high winds as it was almost impossible to control. 
The house is only 1250 sqft of brick ranch built in 1948. Original windows but they are solid and there are storms. Houses on either side 20 feet away so there's some wind blocking. The house is situated lengthwise on the lot so minimal frontal exposure to winds. 

I'd love to get a unit with secondary burn but just can't justify the price. I'm not certain I can always get good free wood (tho I gathered about 8 free cords last spring). Plus the initial cost would eat up all of my savings. 
On a positive note though, if I'm able to get this used one and heat with it for a couple years, I may be able to afford a more efficient unit in the future!


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## blades (Aug 19, 2009)

Hey VWBoomer where ya at in WI, I am in Milw area. got a hot blast  might be willing to part with  as I need bigger unit
got this one last year at fleet farm. Got one season on it never overfired, there is not even any discoloration on the front or rear panels.


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## vwboomer (Aug 19, 2009)

I'm in Sheboygan just up the road.
Tomorrow morning I'm going to look at the unit for sale in Sheboygan Falls. This guy, too, needed a bigger unit after remodeling but was very happy with it when heating the smaller house. Said he went through 3.5-5 cords.

If there's something up with this unit, you'll have to let me know your price. For $350 from this guy, he's going to buy new brick and put it in the driveway. After I go look at it tomorrow morning I'll post up the condition of it.


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## laynes69 (Aug 19, 2009)

Too bad you couldn't get away with a wood stove. Something thats EPA certified. A furnace the daka or hotblast will run you out of the home. And I'm sure you will be dampen it down to control heat, which will plug the flue and chimney pretty quick. My dad heats a 1600 square foot basement and a 1600 square foot first floor with only a woodstove. We averaged between 5 and 7 cords a year with our hotblast. But we are heating over double your square footage. Looking to cut down on consumption with the new furnace. I will sell our hotblast in the winter here.


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## vwboomer (Aug 20, 2009)

Wish I could. It would be a smaller initial investment and more efficient to boot. The unit will be located, basically, at the base of the basement stairs. 
Although I suppose I could remove ductwork to the upstairs registers and let the heat work it's way up, but everything would need to be reconnected for CA in the spring. Kind of a PITA.

With the previous burner I ran it pretty hot. A stove front mounted dial thermometer told me I was generally between 400-700 degrees. I think the exhaust temps - after running thru the baffled 'radiator' - was about 400 as near as I could tell.

I assume your dad has the burner in the basement with registers cut in the floor? The living room - the main room I want warm - is the furthest room from where the burner will be. Not so good for natural convection.


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## freeburn (Aug 20, 2009)

laynes69 said:
			
		

> Too bad you couldn't get away with a wood stove. Something thats EPA certified. A furnace the daka or hotblast will run you out of the home. And I'm sure you will be dampen it down to control heat, which will plug the flue and chimney pretty quick. My dad heats a 1600 square foot basement and a 1600 square foot first floor with only a woodstove. We averaged between 5 and 7 cords a year with our hotblast. But we are heating over double your square footage. Looking to cut down on consumption with the new furnace. I will sell our hotblast in the winter here.



Are you going to sell your 1950 hotblast? or were you referring to another? If so, why are you looking to sell it and what are you going to replace it with?


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## vwboomer (Aug 20, 2009)

I looked at the unit, it's the 1300. Apparently it was actually only in use for one year, but is three years old. It then spent one year idle in the basement, and last fall was moved outside. It is under the eaves of the house and was wrapped in rubber roofing.
No discoloration or warping of the fire chamber. A little bit of surface rust in the chamber as well as the air jacket but just a couple spots. 
I think I'm going to go with it but try to get him down another $50. Though for 350 I still feel it's a pretty good deal.


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## laynes69 (Aug 20, 2009)

Oh no, the 1950 is staying. I replaced our 1500 hotblast with the 1950. I upgraded with a more efficient wood furnace. All in all, my 1950 will come out at around 1000 after I get my tax credit, and sell my old wood furnace. Dad's house doesn't have registers cut into the floor. The heat rises at the stairway around the corner, where it filters into the home above. The 1300 is a bit smaller than the 1500 so it won't be as much overkill for your house. Sounds like the price is right, I would buy it.


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## vwboomer (Aug 21, 2009)

It'll be here Sunday morning woohoo! I'm gonna see if he'll throw in the rubber roofing too


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