# Best chainsaw for 10 cord, $1000 budget. 25" diameter hard wood



## Cobra427 (Jul 5, 2014)

I am pretty happy with my tiny Poland pro so far.....but let's say you had a $1000 limit to put into a new saw.  Which would you get?  Echo? Dolmar?  Stihl?  Which model?


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## AmarilloSlim (Jul 5, 2014)

Stihl. 50cc or more. Safety gear can also be obtained within your budget..... Is the poulan not cutting it for you anymore or have you fallen victim of cad?


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## Jon1270 (Jul 5, 2014)

$1000 will buy more saw than you need.

How often do you cut wood that's actually 25" across, and how big a hurry are you in when you're doing it? 

The commonly available brands that offer professional-grade saws are Stihl, Husqvarna, Echo and Dolmar/Makita.  You'll want a displacement somewhere in the range of 50-70cc, with bigger tending to be both heavier and more expensive.    Unless you're cutting 25" hardwood all the time, I'd save both the money and the weight and go with a 50-60cc saw.  I'm unfamiliar with the Echo product line and only slightly familiar with a few Dolmar / Makita models, but excellent choices would be the Stihl MS261, Husqvarna 555 or 562, or Stihl MS362.


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## cityboy172 (Jul 5, 2014)

Stihl ms362 or Husqvarna 562. Will cut everything your asking, like a boss.


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## tsquini (Jul 6, 2014)

1k price point will get you a lot of saw.  For around $500 you have a few good options. I'm a echo chainsaw fan. I have a few saws from echo. I'm happy with the cost a reliability. I recently purchased echo 590 for $400 and used it to cut up a 36" oak with no issues. For your budget you can move up to the 600p or the 680. Those are more professional grade saws.  If you are just a weekend warrior processing firewood the 590 is all you will need.


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## chrispr1 (Jul 6, 2014)

For half that you can get a quality pro-grade saw, a bar or two, and some chains if you're keeping your eyes out. I bought my 357xp and 288xp's that way, used but in good or better condition, and I can cut anything I would reasonably expect to come across. If you are truly regularly going to be cutting big stuff, I'd look at a Dolmar 7900; lightweight and powerful.


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## Turbo (Jul 6, 2014)

MS 362 C-M with a 16" full chisel and 25" full skip, that's what I run. That way you have one saw for it all, I'm not going to lie, if you limb and buck all day with the MS362, your going to feel like you've had a work out, but your also going to have a ton of wood ready for splitting. Or you can buy two saws; something like a MS 170 for limbing and a MS 391 for felling and bucking.  

Go for a "pro" saw.  It's all about power to weight ratio.  MS391 is a powerful saw, but it weighs more then a MS 362, so at the end of the day, you'll feel the extra 1.3 lbs.

If you do buy a MS 362 C-M, don't be disappointed with it for the first 7 or so tanks, they take about 5-15 tanks to break in.


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## TreePointer (Jul 6, 2014)

If you regularly cut 25" wood, then a 70cc saw is you tool.  Stihl 441/460/461, Husqvarna 372XP (or Jonsered version), Dolmar 7900 (or Makita version).  This would be with a 24" bar or maybe longer.

You can get by with a 60cc saw running a 24/25" bar _in softwoods_.  Otherwise, it should wear a 20" bar for most cutting.


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## 98kx1927 (Jul 6, 2014)

I came to post this same question.  What about rebuilt saws? I've been looking at something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STIHL-036-P...EAD-034-MS360-MS361-MS440-MS460-/251561279857

Is it worth the "risk" to get a rebuilt saw?

david


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## cityboy172 (Jul 6, 2014)

98kx1927 said:


> I came to post this same question.  What about rebuilt saws? I've been looking at something like this:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/STIHL-036-P...EAD-034-MS360-MS361-MS440-MS460-/251561279857
> 
> Is it worth the "risk" to get a rebuilt saw?
> ...



Nothing wrong with a rebuilt, if it's done right. 

His lack of what brand parts he rebuilt it with make me wonder. 

If I were to buy a rebuilt off the internet, From someone I don't know, it would be from arboristsite.


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## chrispr1 (Jul 6, 2014)

I've bought rebuilts before but they've always been local where I could actually check out how it was done. Of those, they ran the range of professional work right down to scary. I won't pay more than parts cost for any online rebuilt unless it's a factory rebuilt; there is just too much risk and variables involved.


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## Jon1270 (Jul 6, 2014)

98kx1927 said:


> I came to post this same question.  What about rebuilt saws? I've been looking at something like this:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/STIHL-036-P...EAD-034-MS360-MS361-MS440-MS460-/251561279857
> 
> Is it worth the "risk" to get a rebuilt saw?
> ...



I've fixed and sold several saws online, via eBay and on another forum.  I can tell you just from looking that the saw you linked to is a hack job and ridiculously overpriced.  The orange covers are mismatched, the front handle is the wrong one for that saw, the entire recoil assembly is a cheap aftermarket knockoff.  Take a look at the pic of the bottom of the saw. See how beat up the crankcase is? What he's done is to take a really rough saw and replace the totally broken parts with whatever he could get cheap or had lying around.  I wouldn't give him half his asking price unless I needed to cut my way out of a leaking submarine.

There absolutely are excellent saws available online at good prices, but that isn't one of them.


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## Cobra427 (Jul 6, 2014)

AmarilloSlim said:


> Stihl. 50cc or more. Safety gear can also be obtained within your budget..... Is the poulan not cutting it for you anymore or have you fallen victim of cad?


My Poulan does OK.  Towards the end of my forth tree (about a week ago) it would stall.  I would pull the cord and continue on.  I do wish for a stronger saw.  My job allows me all the overtime I can stand.  I figure with two weeks of overtime I can take home an extra $1000 in my two check.


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## Cobra427 (Jul 7, 2014)

Jon1270 said:


> $1000 will buy more saw than you need.
> 
> How often do you cut wood that's actually 25" across, and how big a hurry are you in when you're doing it?
> 
> The commonly available brands that offer professional-grade saws are Stihl, Husqvarna, Echo and Dolmar/Makita.  You'll want a displacement somewhere in the range of 50-70cc, with bigger tending to be both heavier and more expensive.    Unless you're cutting 25" hardwood all the time, I'd save both the money and the weight and go with a 50-60cc saw.  I'm unfamiliar with the Echo product line and only slightly familiar with a few Dolmar / Makita models, but excellent choices would be the Stihl MS261, Husqvarna 555 or 562, or Stihl MS362.


I don't often cut 25" hardwood but I do run into it from time to time.
I tend to favor an 18" bar as it cuts most of the stuff I run into and it will cut bigger wood with an extra pass.

When I cut wood I'm not in a big hurry.  I put on my Deep Woods Off, carry a small radio, a jug of ice tea along with saw, file, bar lube and mixed gas.  I make a day of it and it is less stressful that way. 
Due to changes in job and such I had been out of the wood cutting business for a while but I'm back in it for home heating purposes in the upper NY area.  This past winter was the 4th worst in the last 100 years.  We has sub zero temps into May.  

Things I value in a saw are:
1.  Knowing the pull cord will not break
2.  Knowing it will start and idle with out having to rev the motor to the point the chain moves
3.  Light weight.  Those old steel housed saws that seemed like they weighed 50 pounds are not for me.
4.  I like teeth.  The steel points between the bar and motor
5.  It should have a wheel at the end of the bar
6.  I prefer a high rev motor to a slower motor that is hard to stop.  Personal preference.
7.  The saws' gas tank should run out before the tank of bar lube
8.  Vibration should be kept to a minimum 
9.  It should be easy to tighten the chain and to change the chain.
10.  If the saw needs idle adjustment it should be easy to get to.
11.  Everything should feel right.  The hand position should feel comfy, I should be able to pull the choke with light gloves.


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## cityboy172 (Jul 7, 2014)

Definitely a stihl 362 or husky 562.  They are the work horses. I use a stihl ms460, and am wanting to step down to one of the two above saws (weight).  Put a 20" bar on, and wait to get the 25".  Bars add a lot of weight and money.  You might just want to stick with a 20 and double cut when needed.


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## TreePointer (Jul 7, 2014)

What model Poulan Pro are you currently running (and number of cc's)?


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## Cobra427 (Jul 7, 2014)

42 cc. It is yellow in color. Not sure of the model number.  I keep the chain super sharp.


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## TreePointer (Jul 7, 2014)

Cobra427 said:


> 42 cc. It is yellow in color. Not sure of the model number.  I keep the chain super sharp.



If you plan on keeping that saw, then a 60cc compliment to that saw makes sense.  60cc's will give you the ability run a 20" bar without the engine bogging down too much when fully buried in wood.  It will also handle the larger bite of 3/8 pitch chain. (Note that I'm referring to regular 3/8 pitch chain and not the smaller _3/8 low profile_ pitch (Stihl Picco).

If you plan on retiring/selling your 42cc saw, then consider a two saw plan.  Many firewooders like complementing a quality 50cc saw with a 70cc saw.   The 50cc saw is great for limbing and smaller bucking.   The 70+cc saw will excel in larger bucking, felling, stumping, and noodling.  Buy one saw and then get the other when funds allow or a good used one comes along.

Get to your local chainsaw dealers to feel the weights in person.


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## roadiestar (Jul 7, 2014)

I like Dolmar and Echo saws


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## WiscWoody (Jul 7, 2014)

My vote goes for the Husqvarna 562XP, just like my newest saw. Now that I'm on this site I'm afraid I've caught the pesky CAD....

PS, I got my new 562XP with a 20" bar and chain for $660 shipped and no tax charged.


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## EMB5530 (Jul 7, 2014)

WiscWoody said:


> My vote goes for the Husqvarna 562XP, just like my newest saw. Now that I'm on this site I'm afraid I've caught the pesky CAD....
> 
> PS, I got my new 562XP with a 20" bar and chain for $660 shipped and no tax charged.


:-0 Where?   If'n ya dont mind me askin.


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## EMB5530 (Jul 7, 2014)

Been looking at the 562's of Husk and 362's from stihl.

Drool Drool Drool
They both have good reviews. I myself have always been a  husky chaser (hehehe), but stihl dealers are everywhere which means parts are very available.
Ohhh I very much like these "Which chainsaw?" posts as I have been ponderin a new one for some time now.


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## Cobra427 (Jul 8, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> If you plan on keeping that saw, then a 60cc compliment to that saw makes sense.  60cc's will give you the ability run a 20" bar without the engine bogging down too much when fully buried in wood.  It will also handle the larger bite of 3/8 pitch chain. (Note that I'm referring to regular 3/8 pitch chain and not the smaller _3/8 low profile_ pitch (Stihl Picco).
> 
> If you plan on retiring/selling your 42cc saw, then consider a two saw plan.  Many firewooders like complementing a quality 50cc saw with a 70cc saw.   The 50cc saw is great for limbing and smaller bucking.   The 70+cc saw will excel in larger bucking, felling, stumping, and noodling.  Buy one saw and then get the other when funds allow or a good used one comes along.
> 
> Get to your local chainsaw dealers to feel the weights in person.


Good points.  I actually have two saws and will probably sell the poulan eventually.  The other saw I have is a shindaiwa that use to be my Dads.  The shindaiwa has some age on it but it is a good saw...light weight..strong...with compression release.  It was 400 and that was 20 years ago.
I have decided on getting a Stihl.  There were a lot of brands mentioned on this topic but Stihl seems to be the most mentioned.  Now it is down to 50cc or 60cc.  Time to go to a distributor and heft a couple of them.  Tomorrow I will figure out what cc that shindaiwa is.


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## Jon1270 (Jul 8, 2014)

Cobra427 said:


> 9. It should be easy to tighten the chain and to change the chain.



In general, Stihl saws make it somewhat easier to change the chain than Husqvarna does, because Husky uses outboard clutches and Stihl uses inboard clutches. 



Cobra427 said:


> 2. Knowing it will start and idle with out having to rev the motor to the point the chain moves.
> ...
> 10. If the saw needs idle adjustment it should be easy to get to.



Before you buy, do a little reading about the self-tuning feature now offered by Stihl and Husky on some models.  They have a simple computer that watches the saw's performance and uses solenoids to adjust the carburetor needles to keep it running as it should, so there's less fiddling for the user to worry about.  This has been available for a few years, and the reviews I've seen have almost all been very positive.


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## WiscWoody (Jul 8, 2014)

EMB5530 said:


> :-0 Where?   If'n ya dont mind me askin.


I got it on eBay from the store in the link. They have their own website too so it would be worth checking the price on there also. The listing has a "make an offer" option and I made an offer and they countered with $660 and I took their offer.  CAD CAD CAD CAD

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husqvarna-5...258034703?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item258bba560f


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## Ashful (Jul 8, 2014)

Cobra427 said:


> I am pretty happy with my tiny Poland pro so far.....but let's say you had a $1000 limit to put into a new saw.  Which would you get?  Echo? Dolmar?  Stihl?  Which model?


I'd ditch the current saw and buy exactly what I have now:

30 - 35 cc top handle:  Husq. T435 ($400)
60 - 65 cc rear handle:  Stihl 036 ($350 - $400, with new ES bar)
Chaps + Helmet:  Stihl chaps ($70), Husq. Helmet ($35)
Scabbards, chains, plastic wedges, tools ($100)

There's you're $1000, spent about as well as I can figure it.


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## bassJAM (Jul 8, 2014)

If you're looking between a 50 cc and 60cc I'd highly recommend going with a 60.  I was in the same place 2 years ago, and decided on a 50cc Husky 550xp as my only saw.  While it is hands down the best saw I've ever run, I don't like getting into larger wood with it.  It will do it, but it really shines while limbing.  So I picked up a 64cc Makita, and while it's much heavier, as soon as the logs get to be 8-10" in diameter I reach for the Makita.  I think the 2 saw plan is about perfect, but if I were going to have only one saw it would be a pro level 60cc.  The Stihl or Husky will be lighter than my Makita and better for all-around use.

But if you think you'll end up with 2 saws one day, I think a 50cc and 70cc compliment each other very nicely.


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## TreePointer (Jul 8, 2014)

+1

Of the 8 saws in my current arsenal, there are four saws that get the most use, and the 60cc saw certainly is the jack of all trades.

Husqvarna 346XP (50cc, 16" .325 .050)  = The saw I use most.  Lightweight, quick throttle response, great balance for limbing, a hungry little bucker.

Stihl 361 (59cc, 20", 3/8 .050) = If it's larger wood, but I don't want all the weight of a Makita 7901 in a long cutting session, this is the saw I pick up.  If I take only one saw to a site, this is the one.

Makita 7901 (Makita 6401 w/Dolmar 79cc top end) = If the tree is over 20" and certainly over 25", this is the saw I use.  I don't have all the time I'd like to spend outdoors making firewood, so making quick work of larger logs is important.  It does well with the 24" and 32" bars I have for it.

Stihl KOMBI with Power Pruner attachment = because sometimes my arms aren't long enough.


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## Ashful (Jul 8, 2014)

Good post, TreePointer, but geez... he only has $1000 to spend!

A two-saw plan is great, but I disagree on the smaller saw being 50 cc.  The 50cc saw is great for a homeowner who just wants one saw.  A two saw plan should include a 7 - 8 lb. saw for limbing, and that puts you into the 35 cc territory.  Mate that with 60 - 70 cc's, and you've got a great plan for 90% of firewood cutters.

I owned two 50 cc saws, and sold them both when I got the 036 Pro... they're just too close in weight to bother switching down from 62.5 cc to 50 cc.

Then... when you get another $1000 burning a hole in your pocket, pick up an 85 - 95 cc saw, for your three-saw plan.  Now you're ready to tackle big stuff.


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## TreePointer (Jul 8, 2014)

Joful said:


> Good post, TreePointer, but geez... he only has $1000 to spend!



Heehee, I hear ya!

The point I was attempting to make was that even though I use more than one saw, a good 50cc saw gets the most use here, and a good 60cc model is about the best compromise if I could only have one saw.  Could I get by without an 80cc saw?  Sure, but I don't want to!  

The pole saw gets used more often than I thought it would.  It handles a lot of storm damage, some thicker hedge pruning, and provides some distance between me and a tree when finishing a dangerous cut (backstrap on leaner, splintered tree trunks, spring poles, etc.).


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## tsquini (Jul 8, 2014)

Cobra427 said:


> The shindaiwa has some age on it but it is a good saw...light weight..strong...with compression release.  It was 400 and that was 20 years ago.


shindaiwa and echo merged in 1997. In the USA shindaiwa is sold under the Echo brand name.


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## skfire (Jul 8, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> +1
> 
> Of the 8 saws in my current arsenal, there are four saws that get the most use, and the 60cc saw certainly is the jack of all trades.
> 
> ...


 
plus 1 , on the 361....have the exact same set up and it makes my day...all day....my 290 is jealous....she has some miles but I still run her, even though the 361 makes hay.

Scott


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## Cobra427 (Jul 9, 2014)

Long day at work so I didn't get a chance to heft some saws but I am leaning towards the Stihl ms 362.

1.  Sell the poulan
2.  Buy a MS 362
3.  Keep the Shindaiwa as a limber until it blows up

I figure with the lightweight Shindaiwa, I can limb trees pretty fast but if it ever blows up the ms 362 can do both limbing and cutting if I need it to.  Going from 42cc to 59cc is going to be a jump.  I just hope that the 'electronics' in that Stihl holds up.  I will probably set it up with a 18" bar.  The 18" shouldn't bog and I'll just do a double pass on any trees that get really big.

I would like to thank you guys for your feedback.


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## Charles1981 (Jul 9, 2014)

Well since you are actually harvesting trees the MS 362 sounds like a great choice.

I harvest like 2-3 trees a year on friends property but none of it is easily accessible so I wouldn't even say it factors in to play for myself, because with time, effort, and gas money to haul it all back home it becomes almost as expensive per cord (but not quite) to get it back home as I don't have a hauling trailer and only have a ford ranger. So at the least another 600-700$ investment would be necessary to haul a cord at a time.

You can easily have a 20inch bar for that 362.

As I get about 12 cords delivered a year log length right to my wood pile area I have been humping away at a orange box Echo CS400 (42cc 18inch bar). So far it has chewed up 24 cords and taken down about 9 trees (another 5-7 cords) of varying DBH (easily takes down <20, little bit of work on >26-27 inchers, really big pain on huge trees . It is still going strong after 3 years but I only heavily use it 3-4 days a year and then all the wood has been bucked.

If I were heading out, felling, and bucking trees I would want a big mamma bear and a baby bear with me for sure. And the few trees I have felled I have always wanted more than 18 inches but it isn't that important with the frequency at which I fell a tree.

As long as the echo lasts me another 6-7 years with my intermittent heavy use which is probably more classified as light use I will be satisfied and surprised. But always wishing for more power and bar length in different occasions.


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## NE WOOD BURNER (Jul 9, 2014)

I currently run Husky 266,350,371xp,372xp  all combined less than $1000 used haven't used the 266 or 350 since getting the 371. and I fill both the 371 and 372 and switch them out when they run out of gas. 2 tanks and then rest. mostly cutting on log pile.
I would vote for the 372xp.


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## Ashful (Jul 9, 2014)

NE WOOD BURNER said:


> I currently run Husky 266,350,371xp,372xp


That is curable, you know.  ;-)


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## NE WOOD BURNER (Jul 9, 2014)

Joful said:


> That is curable, you know.  ;-)


What would be the cure? I love cutting and splitting. Just got a splitter last year 30-40 years all by hand. Now I want to cut the wood faster to fire up the splitter.


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## Ashful (Jul 9, 2014)

NE WOOD BURNER said:


> What would be the cure?


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## NE WOOD BURNER (Jul 9, 2014)

Joful said:


> View attachment 135227


Yeah! I like stihl but have always had good luck with Husky. I just run the fuel out of them before I put them away. 2-3 pulls and up and running. Cutting side by side with guys with Stihl. I find they don't fuel up as often as I do. But being polished and ported may have something to do with that!-LOL


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## Cobra427 (Jul 9, 2014)

The Shindaiwa I now have is the 488.  Specs are:  47.9 cc,  10.2 pounds without the bar and puts out around 3.5 HP.  This saw has a 16" bar on it now.  I have used it and it is a cutting machine and is very light.
So, it would make sense for me to get a saw with around 60cc.  That reinforces my decision on the ms 362.  I called two dealers today.  One said he would have to order it (wanted $735 for it).  The other dealer had one in a box (wanted $709 for his).  Neither dealer could vouch for the reliability of them.  The first guy said that he only sold 2 of them in the past year.  The second guy wasn't even sure if he sold 1.  I think I will do a little research for a bigger dealer in my area....maybe even one that has a shop out back that works on them.


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## Cobra427 (Jul 9, 2014)

Charles1981 said:


> Well since you are actually harvesting trees the MS 362 sounds like a great choice.
> 
> I harvest like 2-3 trees a year on friends property but none of it is easily accessible so I wouldn't even say it factors in to play for myself, because with time, effort, and gas money to haul it all back home it becomes almost as expensive per cord (but not quite) to get it back home as I don't have a hauling trailer and only have a ford ranger. So at the least another 600-700$ investment would be necessary to haul a cord at a time.
> 
> ...


I have a ford heritage base model with only the 4.2 V6.  Any kind of a load and it bogs down BUT it gets the job done.  I paid 7,000 for it.  I can't justify new trucks at 50k or more.  Heck, there are guys who pay more for their 4 wheelers than I paid for my truck.  It has an 8ft bed with good tires.  I have a two axle flat bed that I tow a car with.  If I was strong enough to put 4 foot logs on it, I would but as is it is useless for hauling wood unless someone loads it for me with a machine.


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## Jon1270 (Jul 10, 2014)

Cobra427 said:


> That reinforces my decision on the ms 362.



I think you'll be very happy with that decision.  I've never tried a 362, but I have used several older models in the same line, i.e. the 036, MS360 and MS361, and they were all excellent machines.  Keep in mind that not every 362 has the self-tuning electronics, just the 362C-M.  The M at the end of the model number stands for "M-Tronic."  Models without that designation have more conventional carburetors.  The one that the dealer had in a box could easily be the older, non-M-Tronic version.

Since I took up fixing older saws as a hobby, I've gotten to try a lot of different models from 35 to 85cc.  If I had to pare down to just two saws it would probably be a 60ish CC bucking saw and a 35ish cc lightweight limbing saw.  The 70+cc models I've had (MS 460, DCS7901, 064) are great fun but they're just overkill for my needs. I burn maybe two or two and a half cords a year, all hand-split, and my wood hauler is a station wagon.  The longest bar I've ever run is 24", and that cuts rounds of wood bigger than I usually care to handle or split.


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## Ashful (Jul 10, 2014)

A 70cc saw would be a much better mate to that 48cc saw you have.  The 36x line is a great all-around saw (I own the 036, which is the less heavy but equal hp predecessor to the 36x), but there's not so much hp difference between that and 48cc , to make it worth owning & maintaining both.  Buy a 44x, if you want to keep the 48cc unit.


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## Jon1270 (Jul 10, 2014)

Joful said:


> A 70cc saw would be a much better mate to that 48cc saw you have.  The 36x line is a great all-around saw (I own the 036, which is the less heavy but equal hp predecessor to the 36x), but there's not so much hp difference between that and 48cc , to make it worth owning & maintaining both.  Buy a 44x, if you want to keep the 48cc unit.



Wouldn't hurt to look at an MS441, or maybe a Husky 365.


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## Ashful (Jul 10, 2014)

BTW... I speak from experience on this, I used to own a 49.2 cc saw when I bought my 036.  I found I NEVER used that 49.2 cc saw again, after I acquired the 036 (too similar to bother swapping), so I sold it.  Now I run 35cc, 63cc, 85cc.  That's a nice line-up, that will handle anything under 60" diameter.


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## bassJAM (Jul 10, 2014)

I can see a 50 and 60cc being very similar.  There was a short time after I got my 550xp that I regretted not getting a MS360 instead, but now I'm glad.  My original plan was to own just one saw, and had I got the 360 that *might *have happened.  But now I have the excuse to pick up a 64cc Makita, and an excuse to turn that Makita into a 79cc beast!


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## jeffesonm (Jul 10, 2014)

I liked all of Joful's posts to indicate my agreement, but I will copy and paste this one again anyway:


Joful said:


> Now I run 35cc, 63cc, 85cc. That's a nice line-up, that will handle anything under 60" diameter.


I have roughly the same lineup and I think it's perfect.

The 63cc 036 w/20" bar (or 362 you're looking at) is both light enough to use without tiring quickly and powerful enough to cut through most everything you'll run into.  It's nice to have a smaller saw for limbing and a bigger one to cut big trunks from one side, but the 036/20" will keep you a happy camper.


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## Bigg_Redd (Jul 11, 2014)

Jon1270 said:


> Wouldn't hurt to look at an MS441, or maybe a Husky 365.



I replaced a 290 with a 440.  I probably should have gone with a 361 as they were still available at the time and I just needed enough saw to run a 25" bar.  Most of the cutting I do is bucking logs and there's no better saw than the legendary MS440 for that, but when I fall a bushy Alder or Bigleaf Maple and have to wade through the mess limbing, the 440 gets _very_ heavy.


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## toddnic (Jul 11, 2014)

I know there are many recommendations on here but here is my suggestion after cutting a lot of wood. 

1.  Husqvarna 372xp  ($800 estimate)
2.  24" bar (can go larger if needed but that gives you 48" of cutting
3.  Stihl Rapid Super chain (yellow) ($40 estimate)

That setup will most likely handle anything that you will ever need to cut and you would have a little money left over for protective gear.  After using both Husqvarna and Stihl saws, I really like the combination of the two.  Best of both worlds!


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## maple1 (Jul 11, 2014)

I would also highly recommend a 2 saw setup.

40cc or so for limbing & small stuff, 60-70cc or so for the big stuff.

Sure it feels good to go all Rambo on big wood with a big saw, but it gets to be a drag pretty quick if you get into some small stuff, or a bunch of limbing. Or it does with me at least. Nice to grab a small saw & go & not tire yourself out so much.


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## WiscWoody (Jul 14, 2014)

Cobra427 said:


> I have a ford heritage base model with only the 4.2 V6.  Any kind of a load and it bogs down BUT it gets the job done.  I paid 7,000 for it.  I can't justify new trucks at 50k or more.  Heck, there are guys who pay more for their 4 wheelers than I paid for my truck.  It has an 8ft bed with good tires.  I have a two axle flat bed that I tow a car with.  If I was strong enough to put 4 foot logs on it, I would but as is it is useless for hauling wood unless someone loads it for me with a machine.


I paid a grand for my '78 F150 300/4.9L T-18 w/8' bed and I sunk a few hundred into new window seals and shifter and shaft boots. It runs and hauls wood great!


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## Mischa Shashumshkavich (Jul 16, 2014)

if it's a penny for your thoughts, and you have to put your 2 cents in, someone is making a penny on that deal(S.W.) But heres my 2, i went the used Dolmar/Makita route. Called Home Depot,asked to have my name written down for the next rental saw sale....i got a excellent saw for $258.00,the DCS6421, and that model can be upgraded to the 7900.....i would then put the rest of the money towards other things,like a log splitter......if you don't have one.....also,the saw isn't the lightest,but i'm a small guy(see pic.) and the weight hasn't bothered me yet


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## bassJAM (Jul 16, 2014)

Seems like a decent deal for under $1000.....4 Stihl 036's  You could put a different bar length on each one!

http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/tls/4568613296.html

*Stihl Chainsaw 036 Pro MS/MS360 - $800*





I have four 036 Pros. 800 OBO


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## Ashful (Jul 16, 2014)

Nice driveway!


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## bpirger (Jul 16, 2014)

Bought a Husky 562XP this spring and used it to bring in the 10 cords.  Compared to the 350 I previously ran primarily, not even close...at least twice as fast.  Compared to my 372XP, about the same....but way lighter.  In fact, the 350 vs the 362xp, I don't really notice a difference in weight.  372XP feels like a relative tank.

Oddly enough, I got Stihl chain on the new 18" bar and it does seem to be the best cutting chain I've used.  Seems to stay sharp the longest....

I don't think you'd be disappointed.


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## clemsonfor (Jul 21, 2014)

If new or buy a 441cm stihl. If used I would find a good mastermind ported 046 to buy !!


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## clemsonfor (Jul 21, 2014)

Jon1270 said:


> In general, Stihl saws make it somewhat easier to change the chain than Husqvarna does, because Husky uses outboard clutches and Stihl uses inboard clutches.
> 
> 
> 
> Before you buy, do a little reading about the self-tuning feature now offered by Stihl and Husky on some models.  They have a simple computer that watches the saw's performance and uses solenoids to adjust the carburetor needles to keep it running as it should, so there's less fiddling for the user to worry about.  This has been available for a few years, and the reviews I've seen have almost all been very positive.


Not all husky are outboard. The 372xp is inboard as are several more.


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## Jon1270 (Jul 21, 2014)

clemsonfor said:


> Not all husky are outboard. The 372xp is inboard as are several more.



Oh, good to know.  I've only had Huskies up to 60cc or so, and they've all been outboard.


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## R'Lee (Jul 30, 2014)

I also have the "two saw plan" albeit in hindsight, I wish I went a bit LARGER with my smaller saw...  I am seriously thinking about talking to "Mastermind" after the Holidays to see if I can schedule a session for his magic....
Most of the stuff I am been playing with lately is big (30-50" at the base) therefore the 261 has been taking a vacation watching the other do all the real work.  Used the 261 last week to finish my final cut of the day when the Ø66 ran out of gas.  Dont get me wrong, its a great saw but...    Yeah I know - this is my absolute first post on this forum...   been reading it for quite some time and thought it was about time i joined this fine group


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## Flatbedford (Jul 30, 2014)

I bought an MS362 back in May. It was just under $800 with a 20" bar. For another $100 or so you can pick up a 25" bar and chain for the big stuff. You will still have $100 left over to buy something nice for the Mrs. so make up for the $900 you spent on toys tools.


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## duramaxman05 (Aug 17, 2014)

If you haven't bought one yet. Look at a 60cc saw. They are a good all around saws. I would look at a dolmar 6100. My father in law just bought one and he cuts timber. He likes it a lot. He uses it most of the time unless he gets into some big timber which that's what his jonsered 2712 are for. But that dolmar is well balanced and has plenty of power and torque. Torque is what dolmars are known far. It is a pro saw and is quite a bit cheaper than stihl and husky of equivalent size.


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## clemsonfor (Aug 18, 2014)

And if u buy the Dol-kita that size you can put the 7900 top end on it with no other changes and have an 80cc saw


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## Rossco (Aug 18, 2014)

Husqvarna 555. It's the ultimate firewood saw. Basically a 562 XP with the small bar mount. Virtually a 560 XP that's not available North America. I don't think there is a saw for $1000? Maybe a 25lb 90-120cc old growth cutter. Silly, heavy gas guzzling relics.


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## clemsonfor (Aug 18, 2014)

There are plenty of $1000 saws. The stihl 441 is right under that mark. The 460 is right there the 660 is $1250 is and there is the 880 which is like $2000ish. And a 441 is not that big of a saw?


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## duramaxman05 (Aug 18, 2014)

clemsonfor said:


> And if u buy the Dol-kita that size you can put the 7900 top end on it with no other changes and have an 80cc saw


You can buy a 6400 and put the 7900 jug on it. They also make a big bore kit too. I think its a 85 or 86cc. I have ran a 7900 and they cut. They are almost wild for firewood. My father in law cuts timber and has run several 7900's. They dont hold up lime they should for the money. The 7300 holds up better in the long run. He has a few jonsered 2172. Has one thats over 2yrs old and still goin. And he cuts timber for a living. So he knows what lasts and what dont.


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## clemsonfor (Aug 18, 2014)

Your right after I posted I was thinking it was like a 6400 or 6500 or something that will take the big top end on it.


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## duramaxman05 (Aug 18, 2014)

I know a big saw is nice to cut with. I have to agree with my father in law on this. Why pack a big saw around when a smaller lighter saw will work. Sure a big saw has its place in the big stuff which he uses the big saws for. But a majority of the time he uses his dolmar 6100 or 2260 jonsered. They are lighter, easier to maneuver,  easier on fuel and makes less wear and tear on you yourself. I beleive. I drug my stihl 441 through the woods and brush for a day and I felt like I was ran over a truck at the end of the day. I have seen him take down some big trees with 60cc saws and a 20" bar. I personally dont uses my 441 unless I have to. Just something to think about.


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## clemsonfor (Aug 18, 2014)

I use a smaller saw when need be as well easier to use. Bit nothing like running the 70 and 80cc saws...but they sure do love the fuel!! But they make quick work of bucking!


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## HeatsTwice (Aug 19, 2014)

Around here, the trees get big. I saw this the other day while in traffic. It might be nice. But then you 'd need a truck to haul it around.


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## clemsonfor (Aug 19, 2014)

Looks like an 075 or 090


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## tekguy (Aug 19, 2014)

I have a farm boss and on a oak - sugar maple/rock maple thats a tough cut (25" diameter) so if I did it all the time I would want better

but that said - I dont and the farm boss cuts almost everything I get easily enough
20" bar with full chisel chain

-love a nice sharp full chisel chain :')


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## Jutt77 (Aug 19, 2014)

I've enjoyed the heck out of my pawnshop Makita 6400>7900 upgrade (OEM P&C, HD air kit) the past few years.  I have around $550 in that saw and its been a dream.  Starts in 2-3 pulls every time, no issues and never lacks power.  Good AV.  Easy to work on.  Great saw, I will buy a Dolmar 7900 in a heartbeat if I ever have to replace it.  I just ordered the 550xp for something smaller and lighter and as a backup for my 7900.  The 550xp (or 545) would be a great option too.  So would a Makita/Dolmar 6400 or a ms260/026 or a 362 or a ______.  Lots of options.


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## duramaxman05 (Aug 19, 2014)

HeatsTwice said:


> Around here, the trees get big. I saw this the other day while in traffic. It might be nice. But then you 'd need a truck to haul it around.
> 
> View attachment 136832


It almost looks like the 090 contra. I think that's what its called anyways.  Good little trim saw. Lol. It looks like a motor off a dirt bike. It would be fun to run at least once.


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## duramaxman05 (Aug 19, 2014)

tekguy said:


> I have a farm boss and on a oak - sugar maple/rock maple thats a tough cut (25" diameter) so if I did it all the time I would want better
> 
> but that said - I dont and the farm boss cuts almost everything I get easily enough
> 20" bar with full chisel chain
> ...


My dad has a stihl 029 super. Its probably goin on 15yrs old. I haved logged a lot of hours on it and its been an outstanding saw. The other saw is a good ole stihl 041 farmboss. We run a 18in bar and a 404 chain. It cuts good. Its a little hard on the ears and there is now antivibe one that old beast.


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## Pennsyltucky Chris (Aug 19, 2014)

Get yerself a Stihl Magnum, Cowboy. Yeeeeehawwwww!


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## bassJAM (Aug 20, 2014)

Jutt77 said:


> I've enjoyed the heck out of my pawnshop Makita 6400>7900 upgrade (OEM P&C, HD air kit) the past few years.  I have around $550 in that saw and its been a dream.  Starts in 2-3 pulls every time, no issues and never lacks power.  Good AV.  Easy to work on.  Great saw, I will buy a Dolmar 7900 in a heartbeat if I ever have to replace it.  I just ordered the 550xp for something smaller and lighter and as a backup for my 7900.  The 550xp (or 545) would be a great option too.  So would a Makita/Dolmar 6400 or a ms260/026 or a 362 or a ______.  Lots of options.



You’re going to LOVE that 550xp!  I’ve yet to get a 79cc p&c on my 6421, but the 550xp is such a dream to run, I don’t grab the Dolmar until I’ve just about run out of bar length on the Husky.


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## Jutt77 (Aug 25, 2014)

bassJAM said:


> You’re going to LOVE that 550xp!  I’ve yet to get a 79cc p&c on my 6421, but the 550xp is such a dream to run, I don’t grab the Dolmar until I’ve just about run out of bar length on the Husky.



You were 100% correct.  I received my 550xp on Saturday.  Pretty much like new condition from ebay, even the gray paint wasn't yet scratched.  At any rate, I promptly gassed and oiled her up and very quickly processed some 3-8 inch diameter black locust limbs and siberian elm I had laying around. All I have to say is WOW.  That little saw screams AND I didn't have to adjust the carb for once.  The auto tune was a huge selling point because I cut anywhere from 5,300 for metro area city scrounges to 7,000ft were I live up to 10,000 ft. for mountain gathering and not having to adjust the carb each time is brilliant.  Lots of power in a 10lb, well handling, auto tuning package.


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## Halligan (Aug 29, 2014)

I run a two saw plan. Husqvarna 346xp with an 18" bar and a 372xp with a 20" & 28" bar. I've decided that if the 372 with the 28" can't handle the job then I'm not interested in it.


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## Dennis Scott (Aug 30, 2014)

Husqvarna 372 x-torq


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## clemsonfor (Aug 30, 2014)

Many would argue the best was the 372 pre x torque or 372xpw but its no longer made


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## clemsonfor (Aug 30, 2014)

I have only run on briefly but I think the 046 is the beat saw made. Good power to weight ratio and can pull a 28" bar.


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## Ashful (Aug 30, 2014)

clemsonfor said:


> I have only run on briefly but I think the 046 is the beat saw made. Good power to weight ratio and can pull a 28" bar.


If you meant "best," then you meant "064."


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## clemsonfor (Aug 30, 2014)

Never run one..but from what I hear I guess your right.

Hear it smokes the 660 and weighs less in smaller chasis. And I have the 650 so I have the same weight but 7cc less than the 660 and a pound or two more than your 064


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## bigbarf48 (Sep 5, 2014)

For that budget and wood, Stihl 441 would be my choice 

362 would be good too


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## Flatbedford (Sep 6, 2014)

I still say MS362. About $800 and you can do plenty with it. Mine will happily pull a full chisel 25" B&C thru anything.


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## Ashful (Sep 6, 2014)

Flatbedford said:


> I still say MS362. About $800 and you can do plenty with it. Mine will happily pull a full chisel 25" B&C thru anything.
> View attachment 137905


Without starting a pissing match, I'm going to have to disagree.  Bury the nose of that bar into any good hardwood, and a 362 may pull it, but definitely not "happily."  If you're running a 25" bar in hardwood, you'd better have 75cc behind it, minimum.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2014)

Joful said:


> Without starting a pissing match, I'm going to have to disagree.  Bury the nose of that bar into any good hardwood, and a 362 may pull it, but definitely not "happily."  If you're running a 25" bar in hardwood, you'd better have 75cc behind it, minimum.


Unless thats full skip you sure can slow that saw down or have to go real sloe with a 25" bar.


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## Flatbedford (Sep 6, 2014)

clemsonfor said:


> Unless thats full skip you sure can slow that saw down or have to go real sloe with a 25" bar.



I started with skip and changed to full. I felt like it was doing fine.


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## Dennis Scott (Sep 6, 2014)

clemsonfor said:


> Many would argue the best was the 372 pre x torque or 372xpw but its no longer made


I have both.   I'll take the xtorq over the old one any day.  Way more power, especially down low.  You can't believe everything you read on the internet.   Put a full chisel chain on a 24" bar and you have a mean cutting machine.


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## clemsonfor (Sep 6, 2014)

I have a 372x torque. Its a beast of a saw. I run it with a 20". Never run the old.


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## MiserableOldFart (Sep 8, 2014)

I am very happy with my Echo CS600P, but they now make a slightly hotter model, the 620P.  I wouldn't hesitate to go with that or a Husky 372XP, if you wanted to spend quite a bit more.  My Echo CS500 VL is now about 35 years old and still going strong.  If I had found a chain brake kit prior to buying the larger saw, I probably wouldn't have the 600P, but I like it a lot, and use them both.


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## ironworker (Sep 13, 2014)

Get yourself a nice 70cc saw


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## drz1050 (Sep 16, 2014)

I would normally say Echo, but you said you prefer something that likes to rev high vs something that revs lower... Echos tend to rev a little lower and have a fatter midrange than the other brands instead of the top end. 


Since you like the high revs, I say Stihl or Dolmar/ Makita.


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## WiscWoody (Sep 16, 2014)

I like the combo I have now, a ported and Tilly carbed  390 XP 28" chisel and a 562XP 20" chisel chained not ported yet... And no, I am not married! Lol


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