# Buck Stove



## knifemaker

I own a buck 2700 purchased in 1988  and recently had the blower motor go out of it. I replaced the blower motor. immediately blower would run  for maybe 1 minute then shut offf ..run 1 minute then shut off. Thought it was the CPI bar so replaced it with a brand new one.Motor still runs a minute then shuts off.Over and over. If I cover the air intake vent on the CPI  bar side,stove works fine. Anyone else have this problem? If so, please advise how you fixed it. I appreciate any help. Thank you


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## tfdchief

Have had a Buck 26000 for 25 years.  never had that problem.  Try putting a thermometer on your doors and find out what temps you are running.  The only thing I can think of is that you are just not burning hot enough or the motor is quitting on thermal overload (possibly because the brass sleeve bearings are so dry the motor is pulling really hard.  Let me know more.


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## knifemaker

I throught the same thing so I fired the stove really hot, motor would not run past low setting and would still shut off and on. Also throught
it could be the motors thermal overload, but when I covered the intake air vent on that side the cpi bar is,  the motor would continue to run so that told me
the motor wasn't over heating. I never had a bit of problems with this stove since I bought it, replaced the old cpi  flat bar 1 time, now with this new motor
it doesn't run worth a hoot and the new cpi bar doesn't fit like the old one. I don't know if you've seen the new cpi bars, but there not flat, they have 3 individual
modules that stand about 1" or so tall.

Any other advice or suggestions would be highly appreciated, I'm at my wits in with this thing.

Thank you


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## tfdchief

Knifemaker said:
			
		

> I throught the same thing so I fired the stove really hot, motor would not run past low setting and would still shut off and on. Also throught
> it could be the motors thermal overload, but when I covered the intake air vent on that side the cpi bar is,  the motor would continue to run so that told me
> the motor wasn't over heating. I never had a bit of problems with this stove since I bought it, replaced the old cpi  flat bar 1 time, now with this new motor
> it doesn't run worth a hoot and the new cpi bar doesn't fit like the old one. I don't know if you've seen the new cpi bars, but there not flat, they have 3 individual
> modules that stand about 1" or so tall.
> 
> Any other advice or suggestions would be highly appreciated, I'm at my wits in with this thing.
> 
> Thank you


Knifemaker, My son replaced the CPI bar in his with the new 3 thermo disc unit.  Actually, he didn't, we looked at it and ordered our own thermo discs and made one....cheaper.  It works like a new stove again.  From what you are saying and have checked out, I have to say it has to be the thermo discs are not working right.  Is it possible that you don't have them in good contact with the steel wall and they are not heating up/cooling off due to the incoming air?  That's what it sounds like since it works right when you stop the incoming cool supply air.


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## knifemaker

Yep the cpi is pretty expensive and once you buy one it's yours as I found out today. Place where I bought mine told me they would give me another one to try but
not my money back. Its about 100 miles from my house to the dealer so I told them I didn't know when I'd get back there, they told me they couldn't keep that other open for to long.
I put the old cpi back on and the motor runs alright on low so I decided if I need to I'll just wire up the 2 speed switch direct and make the fan manual and illiminate the cpi bar completely.

Thank you for your help,


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## tfdchief

Knifemaker said:
			
		

> Yep the cpi is pretty expensive and once you buy one it's yours as I found out today. Place where I bought mine told me they would give me another one to try but
> not my money back. Its about 100 miles from my house to the dealer so I told them I didn't know when I'd get back there, they told me they couldn't keep that other open for to long.
> I put the old cpi back on and the motor runs alright on low so I decided if I need to I'll just wire up the 2 speed switch direct and make the fan manual and illiminate the cpi bar completely.
> 
> Thank you for your help,


Knifemaker, Really, I would do whatever it takes to get the 3 speed thermostat working.  The buck does not work well without it.  My son first replaced his CPI bar with the buck recommended single control reostat and that was horrible.  the stove heats up and the fan speed stays the same.  When the 3 speed thermostat is working properly it selects the fan speed needed for the temp of the stove/fire and works great.  Without it, if the fire gets real hot the stove temp climbs and you can't stop it.  The buck was designed very well.  Altering that causes problems that I have directly experienced.  TRUST ME, YOU WANT TO PUT IT BACK RIGHT!  http://www.servicesales.com/stove_parts/buck_parts.html - This site is pretty easy to deal with, you can't order directly online, but just call them and they will send you whatever you need.  Let me know if I can help otherwise.


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## mcguirjf

tfdchief - do you have the part numbers and where to purchase those thermal disks?

From my searching of the internet they have multiple names, thermal pucks, snap pucks, thermal switch, etc.  Found a couple locations in the internet that sell these items such as Amazon, Senasys, Thermo-disk.  

The problem I'm having is that I can't find any with 3 prong configuration for the high and medium speeds.  From the wiring schematic the low speed thermal switch utilizes a 2 prong configuration.  

What are the temperatures for the three fan speeds?  For example, 110F for low, 140F for medium, and 200F for High.

Are the thermal disks normally open?

Any pictures of the installation?

Were you able to utilize the same location that the original thermal disks were located or did you relocate them to the front right side vent?

Sorry for all the questions.  I just finished the install of my 27000 in my upstairs living room and this thing is great!  I have a 1300 raised ranch and this got the temperature up to 81F last night across the entire house!  I put 20 lbs of bio bricks in it last night and woke up with still some burning embers to restart in the morning.  This is so much better than my King circulator I have down stairs.


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## tfdchief

mcguirjf said:
			
		

> tfdchief - do you have the part numbers and where to purchase those thermal disks?
> 
> From my searching of the internet they have multiple names, thermal pucks, snap pucks, thermal switch, etc.  Found a couple locations in the internet that sell these items such as Amazon, Senasys, Thermo-disk.
> 
> The problem I'm having is that I can't find any with 3 prong configuration for the high and medium speeds.  From the wiring schematic the low speed thermal switch utilizes a 2 prong configuration.
> 
> What are the temperatures for the three fan speeds?  For example, 110F for low, 140F for medium, and 200F for High.
> 
> Are the thermal disks normally open?
> 
> Any pictures of the installation?
> 
> Were you able to utilize the same location that the original thermal disks were located or did you relocate them to the front right side vent?
> 
> Sorry for all the questions.  I just finished the install of my 27000 in my upstairs living room and this thing is great!  I have a 1300 raised ranch and this got the temperature up to 81F last night across the entire house!  I put 20 lbs of bio bricks in it last night and woke up with still some burning embers to restart in the morning.  This is so much better than my King circulator I have down stairs.


 I purchased from this place and was happy. http://www.servicesales.com/stove_parts/buck_parts.html
On that site go here http://www.servicesales.com/3speed-thermostat-p-163.html and purchase the disc unit.  There are instructions there that tell you about your pre-1979 unit and what to do.


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## mcguirjf

Just to clarify...
Did you purchased the individual thermal disks?
I don't see the individual thermal disks for sale.  Did you call and ask for them?

Did you purchase the 3 speed thermostat assembly that costs $87?  The link you provided shows this.
And if so, did you buy the wiring harness and relocate the 3 speed thermostat to the front of the stove?

Once again, sorry for all the questions.  I just want to make sure I order everything I need.  I'm also going to purchase the fan motor gromet and motor gasket to make sure everything is sealed tight.


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## pen

This thread was made pre-classic stove room.  I am going to move it over there but keep a link here since there's good info.

pen


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## mcguirjf

Just got your PM.

For reference and those in my situation.
I have a pre-1979 Regular Buck 27000 where the thermal disks are located in the back.  To access these disks you have to pull the stove out and remove the fan motor to access the thermal disks.

The website provided will give you the location to purchase the 3 speed thermostat assembly.  If you have a post 1979 model the thermal switches are in the front.  If pre-1979 there in the back with the motor.

The new thermostat assembly requires that it be located in the front vent, as illustrated on the website.  From the previous posts it appears that the thermal switches were not mounted correctly and the intake air was cooling the thermal switches preventing the High Fan speed to engage.  I assume that the mounting plate for these switches needs to be mounted flush to the firebox to operate properly.  

http://www.servicesales.com/buck-wiring-harness-p-161.html
Wiring Harness $27

http://www.servicesales.com/rubber-grommet-p-167.html
Rubber Grommet for motor $4

http://www.servicesales.com/motor-housing-gasket-p-169.html
Motor Gasket $12

So it looks to be about $130 + shipping to do the job.  

I'll try to take pictures and post when done.


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## tfdchief

mcguirjf,
I think you have it figured out now, let me know if you need anything else.  The Buck 26000 and 27000 stoves are solidly built and good heaters.  They of course cannot boast the clean burn and efficiency of the new EPA stoves which I highly recommend if you can do it.  However, if you burn hot, take care of your chimney (clean a couple of times a season) the old Buck will serve you well.


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## mcguirjf

Steve,
Thank you!  I figure with about a $300 investment between thermostat issue resolved, door gaskets and glass, and stack purchase I have a great stove.  I've already made the block off plate.  Chimneys came re-lined with purchase of our home.  The bonus was that the stove was free from a family relative that really didn't use it.  I have all the paper work from purchase in 1983.  The year of purchase got my hopes up on the thermostat location.  I guess wood stoves have a decent shelf life (4+ years).  HAHAHA

Once again thank you and to this great forum!


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## Dune

This may or may not be relevant, but blocking the air inlet to a blower reduces the load on the motor.

Are you sure your new blower motor is the same HP as the old one?


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## mcguirjf

Sorry, but I'm not looking to change out the blower motor.  At least not yet!

As far as air inlet blockage the new thermostat assembly will block less than 3% of the over all air inlet area to the fan.  Plus I'm only relocating the thermostats so no increase or decrease in overall air blockage.

Parts ordered and should arrive next week.


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## tfdchief

mcguirjf said:
			
		

> Sorry, but I'm not looking to change out the blower motor.  At least not yet!
> 
> *As far as air inlet blockage the new thermostat assembly will block less than 3% of the over all air inlet area to the fan. * Plus I'm only relocating the thermostats so no increase or decrease in overall air blockage.
> 
> Parts ordered and should arrive next week.


Correct, no significant blockage.  Will not hurt a thing.


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## Dune

mcguirjf said:
			
		

> Sorry, but I'm not looking to change out the blower motor.  At least not yet!
> 
> As far as air inlet blockage the new thermostat assembly will block less than 3% of the over all air inlet area to the fan.  Plus I'm only relocating the thermostats so no increase or decrease in overall air blockage.
> 
> Parts ordered and should arrive next week.



You misundertood me. That the motor runs with no load, but doesn't run with a load may indicate that the problem is in the motor.


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## tfdchief

Dune said:
			
		

> mcguirjf said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, but I'm not looking to change out the blower motor.  At least not yet!
> 
> As far as air inlet blockage the new thermostat assembly will block less than 3% of the over all air inlet area to the fan.  Plus I'm only relocating the thermostats so no increase or decrease in overall air blockage.
> 
> Parts ordered and should arrive next week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You misundertood me. That the motor runs with no load, but doesn't run with a load may indicate that the problem is in the motor.
Click to expand...

Got it.  That was the OP's situation.  mcguirjf has other issues I think.


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## mcguirjf

Here's my situation...
Regardless of the switch being on Manual or Automatic the fan runs at high speed.  The fan runs great, but I have to unplug the stove to turn it off.


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## tfdchief

mcguirjf said:
			
		

> Here's my situation...
> Regardless of the switch being on Manual or Automatic the fan runs at high speed.  The fan runs great, but I have to unplug the stove to turn it off.


Is this after you put in the new 3 disc thermal unit and wired it to the blower?  It sounds like it is wired wrong.  Do you have the wiring diagram?


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## mcguirjf

Still waiting for parts to arrive.  I pulled the stove out last night.  I'll pull the fan tonight and verify the wiring is correct.


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## gzecc

mcguirjf said:
			
		

> Still waiting for parts to arrive.  I pulled the stove out last night.  I'll pull the fan tonight and verify the wiring is correct.


I also did the upgraded motor and sensors on my Buck (28000). I know its a different stove but I needed to change everything, motor, harness and temp sensors. Its works very nice now. Mine would constantly change and get stuck at intermittent fan speeds. Its now like a new stove. I also worked with the service sales buck distributor. They are very willing to talk to you and identify any problems.


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## mcguirjf

Thanks GZECC!

Was your Buck pre-1979 with the thermal switch located in the back?  And if so, any advise / suggections mounting the new switch in the front?  Pictures?

The fan works great in my stove.  I really don't want to drop another $100 for a fan motor.


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## gzecc

mcguirjf said:
			
		

> Thanks GZECC!
> 
> Was your Buck pre-1979 with the thermal switch located in the back?  And if so, any advise / suggections mounting the new switch in the front?  Pictures?
> 
> The fan works great in my stove.  I really don't want to drop another $100 for a fan motor.


It was in the back. The new one is mounted in the top left (right while looking at it). From what I saw (when making the swap) you can't only swap components. I think it all has to be changed.
To take pictures I would have to remove the (400lb) insert from the fireplace and remove the motor (I hope I won't be doing that again in a long time!


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## mcguirjf

So I pulled the fan last night.  The wiring was correct.  

The thermal switch is made by Control Products Inc. in East Hanover, NJ.
P/N is 9900-1011

I sent CPI a request to see if they have any left and how must.  There's a chance!

Still waiting for parts to arrive.  Its starting to get cold over here!

Someone PM'd me asking what the firebox dimensions are.  Anyone?


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## mcguirjf

Updates
Got the tracking number and it appears the package was delivered two days ago.  Oh boy, here we go.

Got a reply from CPI and they are no longer in that business.  I was provided a name Minpro Supply in Spruce Pine, NC as a point of contact.  I think I'm going to give up on this adventure since the parts are at the house.  Somewhere.

Attached is a picture of the thermal switch removed.


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## tfdchief

Yeah, that is the old CPI bar, which you have found out they don't make anymore.  Sorry, I thought I told you that.  Did you get the new 3 disc thermal unit that replaces the CPI bar?  It works great and is much better and more reliable than the old CPI bar.


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## mcguirjf

Called for a tracking number and found that parts were delivered three days ago.  Opened my front screen door and sure enough there is was.  The real issue is that on the box in black magic marker says leave by garage!  Oh well.

So I installed the new harness and thermal switches.  It was a PIA drilling the new holes to mount the thermal switches.  Wiring was simple.

Installed everything and she works great!  It doesn't seem to kick into high as much as I hoped.

I think I read some where its not intended to run on high all the time???  

It does cycle between low and med fan speed fine.  If I want it on high I just flip it to manual.

But when its cool and the fire is done it shuts off!  Yeah.  No more unplugging!

Here some more pictures.  Sorry for the poor image quality.  Getting a new camera soon.
Enjoy and Thank you!


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## tfdchief

mcguirjf said:
			
		

> Called for a tracking number and found that parts were delivered three days ago.  Opened my front screen door and sure enough there is was.  The real issue is that on the box in black magic marker says leave by garage!  Oh well.
> 
> So I installed the new harness and thermal switches.  It was a PIA drilling the new holes to mount the thermal switches.  Wiring was simple.
> 
> Installed everything and she works great!  It doesn't seem to kick into high as much as I hoped.
> 
> I think I read some where its not intended to run on high all the time???
> 
> It does cycle between low and med fan speed fine.  If I want it on high I just flip it to manual.
> 
> But when its cool and the fire is done it shuts off!  Yeah.  No more unplugging!
> 
> Here some more pictures.  Sorry for the poor image quality.  Getting a new camera soon.
> Enjoy and Thank you!


Yep, it is working correctly.....not intended to run on high often.  High is just kind of insurance.  I think the manual even says if it kicks on high you should shut it down, it is getting to hot.


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## gzecc

mcguirjf said:
			
		

> Called for a tracking number and found that parts were delivered three days ago.  Opened my front screen door and sure enough there is was.  The real issue is that on the box in black magic marker says leave by garage!  Oh well.
> 
> So I installed the new harness and thermal switches.  It was a PIA drilling the new holes to mount the thermal switches.  Wiring was simple.
> 
> Installed everything and she works great!  It doesn't seem to kick into high as much as I hoped.
> 
> I think I read some where its not intended to run on high all the time???
> 
> It does cycle between low and med fan speed fine.  If I want it on high I just flip it to manual.
> 
> But when its cool and the fire is done it shuts off!  Yeah.  No more unplugging!
> 
> Here some more pictures.  Sorry for the poor image quality.  Getting a new camera soon.
> Enjoy and Thank you!


Its like getting a vacation when it works well after it was running poorly. Its a pleasure to operate now!


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