# Jotul 602



## mass_burner

I'm about to install an unused, unpainted vintage 602 and have some questions:

1. I have 3 baffle plates, is that all there are inside?
2. Does anyone know how the baffle plates are arranged inside?
3. Can I use unpainted? I do like its current cast iron look.
4. Should I line the bottom with fire brick, sand, or something else?
5. Does the round warming plate just sit on top? Does it need to be "cemented" in?

Thanks.


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## begreen

There are 2 side burn plates and the baffle sits snugly on top of them. Here is a diagram of the stove in this thread. 
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...late-and-air-baffle-arrangement-needed.52168/
No problem with the stove paint. It is actually painted, just with a black paint. If you want to sharpen it up, clean it well, wipe with alcohol and paint with Stove Bright black paint. Put about 1/2" clean sand in the bottom. The warming plate is fine.


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## mass_burner

begreen said:


> It is actually painted, just with a black paint...


 
are you sure? i mean were they all painted at the factory in Norway? Mine look to be just cast iron, like a skillet.


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## begreen

Yes I think so. If it was raw cast iron I would expect it to be very prone to rusting. At this point your paint is totally baked in.


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## mass_burner

This stove has never been used. Not a trace of soot anywhere, gasket rope white and new. The seller said the original buyer bought it "in the 70's" and never installed it due to poor health.


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## begreen

Wow, lucky you. That is a nice find. Be sure to do a few small break-in fires before getting the stove hot. Just use some kindling and let the fire die down. You want to gently drive any moisture out of the cast iron. Each fire can be a little larger, but not large. Shoot for about 250F max temp with the first fire, 300 the next and 400F for the third. Then you can fire it up. All three breakin fires can be done in the same day, just let the stove cool down in between.

You'll find out if the stove is painted as soon as it gets up to 500F on the stove top. It will smoke for a bit as the paint bakes in, so plan to open some windows.


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## mass_burner

after sitting for 40+ years, it does have some surface rust. so i'm going to wire wheel it in those spots. I may be able to tell for sure if it was ever painted from that process.


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## peakbagger

One thing with 602's is they dont like to jammed full of wood and the air choked off. They are very effective creosote producers when run that way. If you are trying to get an overnight burn, its the wrong stove. Just light it off and burn what you need and then let it go out adn restart in the AM if you need it. You will want to have plenty of kindling around but it doesnt take long to learn how to light them


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## goofa

whats a good stove for over night burns or long daily burns... i know that is a foolish question but i have a crazy work schedule and am gone for long hours during the day and wood is my sole heat source.... i refuse to use my oil boiler


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## begreen

Blaze King cat.


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## mass_burner

peakbagger said:


> One thing with 602's is they dont like to jammed full of wood and the air choked off. They are very effective creosote producers when run that way. If you are trying to get an overnight burn, its the wrong stove. Just light it off and burn what you need and then let it go out adn restart in the AM if you need it. You will want to have plenty of kindling around but it doesnt take long to learn how to light them


 
Thanks for the advice, this stove is small, but the room it needs to heat is only 25 x 20. 

This stove is for our south facing patio with glass sliders all around and glass slider access into the house. We will only be using this stove while in the room, for winter "sunbathing" (roof also has 3  45" x 45" skylights), and relaxing on cold nights listening to music, etc.


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## begreen

Perfect application. You will like this stove, it's a willing little heater. Just pay attention and don't get distracted when firing off a load. It can go from 200F to 800F very quickly if you forget to shut down the air. Add a flue pipe damper for better control and heat retention.


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## peakbagger

I ditto the prior response, hard to meet a Jotul sized stove for that application. Just make sure you cut your wood to fit.


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## mass_burner

begreen said:


> Blaze King cat.


 

Just out of curiosity, how much is a BK King Ultra non-cat?


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## begreen

Not sure what Mass prices would be. I am taking a wild guess at near $3K?? Call a local dealer for the actual price.


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## mass_burner

Got a chance to wire wheel the 602 before install this coming weekend. I can see that it had paint on it before, but most of it is gone now. I'm thinking, what's the worst that could happen if I run it this way? I did see somewhere they sold cast iron grey hi temp paint, like for exhaust manifilds etc.


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## begreen

Without paint the stove will instantly rust. Heat accelerates oxidation. Give it a good couple coats of Stove Brite paint in your choice of color and enjoy that beauty. Don't paint the hot plate though.

You are one lucky fellow to have found an original factory condition 602. Treat it well. Get a stove top thermometer and install with a damper in the flue pipe.


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## mass_burner

Is there any way to date this stove by the numbers inside?


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## begreen

No idea, it could be quite old, they have been making that model since the 1940's I think. The newer ones had a UL plate on it so that might be a clue. Be sure to do some gentler break in fires with just kindling for the first couple fire. And put a 1/2" of sand evenly across the bottom of the firebox. 

PS: You do have the baffle and side burn plates for the stove, right?


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## mass_burner

You do have the baffle and side burn plates for the stove, right?

Yes, 2 side plates and 1 top baffle. Until I saw the diagram I had the side plates more toward the rear due to my limited experience with free standing stoves, the rear sides get the hotest, not the front sides. BTW, should I paint the inside pieces and the inside also?


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## begreen

Great. There's no need to paint anything on the inside of the stove.


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## mass_burner

install with a damper in the flue pipe.

double wall flu pipe damper is $63. with an older stove, I guess its a must.


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## begreen

It will give you more control over the fire and less heat up the flue.


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## mass_burner

begreen said:


> Great. There's no need to paint anything on the inside of the stove.


 

I picked up some cast iron paint meant for engine blocks, 500 degree, will this work?


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## 930dreamer

mass_burner said:


> I picked up some cast iron paint meant for engine blocks, 500 degree, will this work?


 

I'd look at the 1000 degree + range! 800 degree is probably a normal temperture range for a wood stove


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## Ashful

mass_burner said:


> I picked up some cast iron paint meant for engine blocks, 500 degree, will this work?


Google "Stove Bright."


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## mass_burner

yes, I know Stove Briight will work, I was hoping to paint cast iron color. I don't have time to wait for shipping either as install in this weekend. If I give a 2 coats of 1000 temp primer, could I get away with a coat of 500 temp cast iron?


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## Ashful

Are you honestly asking if primer provides enough insulation to take a 700F stove top temp down to 500F?

Stove Bright in cast iron gray color from Amazon using Prime shipping, overnight for $4 shipping.  What's the trouble?


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## mass_burner

Joful said:


> Are you honestly asking if primer provides enough insulation to take a 700F stove top temp down to 500F?


 
Am I? So if I give a 2 coats of 1000 degree temp primer, then I paint a top coat with 500 dgree temp cast iron, would the top coat fail at 700 degrees?  Just asking.


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## Ashful

mass_burner said:


> Am I? So if I give a 2 coats of 1000 degree temp primer, then I paint a top coat with 500 dgree temp cast iron, would the top coat fail at 700 degrees?  Just asking.


It will likely fail somewhere just above 500F, as advertised.  Primer doesn't modify paint... just provides masking and adhesion.


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## begreen

That stove is an extremely rare find. Take the time to paint it right with the correct paint. Waiting a week for paint is not that big a deal. FWIW, our local hardware store carries StoveBrite.


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## mass_burner

begreen said:


> That stove is an extremely rare find. Take the time to paint it right with the correct paint. Waiting a week for paint is not that big a deal. FWIW, our local hardware store carries StoveBrite.


 

yea, we have StoveBright too, but not in castiron. You're right. I guess I can proceed with the pipe through the roof install, but not hook up the stove until after I paint it correctly.


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## Ashful

Not sure what color you consider cast iron, but one of my Jotuls is done in their metallic black, and looks great.  I guess Metallic Gray would be closest to cast iron, and can be had from Amazon overnight, if you're in a rush.

http://stovepaintbyjim.com/stovechart.jpg


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## mass_burner

i was thinking charcoal, by the color in my local fireplace store, it looks the closest to what the stove looks like now. like a well seasoned cast iron pan, not shiny, darker.


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## Ashful

Hmm... I don't have a lot of cast iron cookware, but the few pieces I do have are all glossy black!

To each his own... don't want to tell you what color you should choose... just what type of paint to use!  That's a great little stove you found, there.  As begreen already stated, the chances of finding a 40 year NOS Jotul is very rare.  Take good care of it!

PS - my favorite color on those 602's was always green.  Dunno why... I don't think any other stove style looks good in green.


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## mass_burner

if you look at the pics on page 1, the pic of the close up of the door. it looks alot more shiny than it really is. i like that iron look, like this pan, just a tad darker.

http://inhabitat.com/greenholidaygi...-gift-guide-heirloom-gifts/cast_iron_skillet/


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## Ashful

I guess you never can tell from a photo, but that pan looks a lot like my Jotul in Metallic Black Stove Bright, which is the easiest color to find.

Scroll toward the end of this thread:  https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/old-fireplace.88498/page-2


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## begreen

Metallic black is the most common color for stoves. It has a nice dark grey patina. The web color chart images make it look too black.

Paint the stove wearing a vapor mask in a well-ventilated space. The fumes from this paint will rot brain cells. Fortunately it dries pretty quickly.


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## peakbagger

It doesnt just stink when its sprayed, no matter how long you wait, the first few fires it will stink.


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## begreen

Yes, the paint bakes with heat and will outgas until cured. This will happen when the stove reaches about 550F.


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## mass_burner

okay, I just painted the stove with Stovebright's Charcoal. It looks great, glad I waited for the paint.

I going to set it on a 1.5" slab of bluestone. Installation tomorrow.


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## Ashful

Nice!  Can't wait for the install photos.


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## begreen

Perfect, that looks great.


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## mass_burner

ran into some issue on the install, not too bad, joist in the way that needed to be adjusted etc. But the section from the chimney cap down to 4-5" into the room is complete. Now I just need to assemble pipe to meet the SS section.

A question:

1. I have a 5" to 6" adapter made for Jotul stoves (top exhaust). Do they have a special type for double wall? The male end of my damper does not fit easily into the adapter and I don't want to force it. Is this too low, should I place the damper up higher?


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## mass_burner

[quote="Paint the stove wearing a vapor mask in a well-ventilated space. The fumes from this paint will rot brain cells. Fortunately it dries pretty quickly.[/quote]

Yes! Nasty stuff. I painted in my driveway, but I had to kneel on the ground to get the legs and caught some vapors. Gets you light headed really quickly. There's a couple hundred thousand brain cells I'll never get back!


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## Ashful

I'm not sure I follow your description, so pics would help, but each segment should be crimped to fit into the next and sometimes it's necessary to adjust the crimp depth a bit, for proper fit.  I did find I needed to crimp my stovepipe a little more heavily to fit the Jotul F12's collar, possibly they're 150mm diameter whereas our pipe is 6" (152.4mm).

The tool used to adjust the crimps looks like this:



The exception is the transition from liner to stovepipe, which is usually made using a piece called an "appliance adaptor".


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## mass_burner

here are some pics. I think the damper piece is too low, so I think I need a male/female 2' section. But the issue is still the same.


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## begreen

That looks like Selkirk pipe. I think you'll need make the crimp more aggressive. FWIW, I didn't need an adapter for connecting the adapter to M&G doublewall DVL pipe.


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## mass_burner

It is Selkirk. I'll see if my local shop can crimp it further. Do you think 18-24 " above the stove is a good place for the damper?


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## begreen

18" should be ok. That is about where we had ours.


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## mass_burner

OMG! Turns out the section of pipe I have for my damper had the smoke arrow direction label upside down. I didn't need another adapter afterall. So I got another  1' section to raise the damper up. I just need to pre drill through the Jotul metal plate before i fasten the double wall pipe to it.


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## begreen

The pipe crimp should be on the bottom, facing toward the stove.


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## Ashful




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## mass_burner

pics of install, still finishing up the room, but the stove is in! had 2 small break-in fires already with no issues. draft is ample, but seems different than an insert. i'll have to get used to it.


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## begreen

You'll want to have the key damper in the open position when the stove door is open or when starting a fire. Close it off when the stove is going well.  The stove hearth is quite undersized. The hearth should extend at least 8" to each side and behind the stove and 16" in front. That nice floor will get messed up without adequate protection, particularly in front of the stove.


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## mass_burner

begreen said:


> The stove hearth is quite undersized. The hearth should extend at least 8" to each side and behind the stove and 16" in front. That nice floor will get messed up without adequate protection, particularly in front of the stove.
> 
> View attachment 116906


 

I know its undersized. I'm willing to go with it. I'm the only one tending the stove and it will only be used when in the room. I have another another bluestone piece I can could put in front to extend it out 8" or so.


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## mass_burner

BTW, the floor is floating, self-stick, vinyl plank, Allure by TrafficMaster. If a piece gets damaged, you just lift it out and replace. We used this because underneath is a cement slab and this room is just in from the deck/pool and sees alot of sand/water in the summer.


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