# Just picked up this beauty and need suggestions



## Dustin M (Sep 27, 2014)

I just bought this wood stove from a old friend and want to restore it, get the rust off and either paint or polish, which would be best?
I've seen the restored and painted with the pine trees painted gold I really liked that.

Also I am going to hook it into by duct work .
I plan on running a 8" run straight into the supply duct.
The stove has a blower on the bottom that just plugs into an outlet to cut on and off, there is a hole drilled into the back of the stove for a t stat.

Which is best, to wire a t stat to control the stove blower or to jump the stat to run my HEATPUMP blower?


Thank you.


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 27, 2014)

Here


----------



## Ashful (Sep 27, 2014)

One of the mods may move this to the classic stove forum for you, where you'll get a better response.


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 27, 2014)

Thank you


----------



## bholler (Sep 27, 2014)

First question is what chimney is it going to be plugged into?  Next you would need to use the heatpump blower the stove blower will not have enough power to do what you want and you would be better off to tie into the return line so air would be sucked into the ducts if you tie into the distribution liner air would be blown out over the stove.  you will also need to make a hood over top of the stove to collect the heat.  Another thing is you need to check local codes to see if you can tie it into your central heat you may need to install a fire damper.


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 27, 2014)

Ok makes sense to hook it into the return, chimney is right behind it here


----------



## bholler (Sep 27, 2014)

Is it lined and if so has it been inspected for safety?


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 27, 2014)

Yes it's a lined chimney and it has been checked.
Aside from that I found the way I'm going to do it I'll show pics later as I'm about to start here's a picture after I've spent a few hours sanding it and then used stove polish


----------



## jeff_t (Sep 27, 2014)

Have you checked with your insurance company about this? Is the stove listed? 

Ducting a wood furnace has different requirements from normal hvac. Clearances are greater, and I'm pretty sure you shouldn't use that insulated flex duct. Mostly because if you have a good rippin' fire going and the power goes out, you have no blower to keep air moving. Things can get too hot pretty fast.


----------



## begreen (Sep 28, 2014)

That is exactly right. This should be connected with metal, not plastic jacketed flex duct.


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 28, 2014)

It is connected with metal


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 28, 2014)

I read some insurance requirments such as 18" away from floor joists and 36" away from anything combustible and some others everything as far as that goes meets that.


----------



## begreen (Sep 28, 2014)

That looks like it is connected to the return duct, not the supply. And it is tied to a potentially flammable product.  Also, the single wall exhaust pipe appears to be closer than 18" to the flex return. This looks like a problem waiting to happen.

FWIW, I would not be using flex duct at all on the return trunk line or plenum.


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 28, 2014)

Well ok then thanks for your help​


----------



## begreen (Sep 28, 2014)

Is the supply trunk line directly above the stove? Is that rigid metal ducting? If so, that should be a better place to tap into.


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 28, 2014)

begreen said:


> Is the supply trunk line directly above the stove? Is that rigid metal ducting? If so, that should be a better place to tap into.


Yes it is directly above and it's metal with duct wrap.
So you think it'd be better to hook straight into the supply and use the wood stoves blower?

Instead of better connecting to the return and use the heatpump blower ?


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 28, 2014)

I don't think that little blower will supply the whole house.
But the majority of where we stay is on the half where my wood stove is..


----------



## begreen (Sep 28, 2014)

Yes, the supply system is a better place to hook up and safer. Think about what happens with this setup in a power outage. Use the stove blower. Ideally there would be a back draft damper in the supply trunk duct between the connection and the main plenum.


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 28, 2014)

I


begreen said:


> Yes, the supply system is a better place to hook up and safer. Think about what happens with this setup in a power outage. Use the stove blower. Ideally there would be a back draft damper in the supply trunk duct between the connection and the main plenum.


i have a manual damper the way it is now.
Ok I'll re arrange it prob later and then post it and we'll go from there.


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 29, 2014)

Checked it and the blower has enough cfm to supply good air flow to almost every register esp our bedroom and living room. I am very pleased


----------



## Enzo's Dad (Sep 29, 2014)

Is that tape on your seams of that pipe?


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 29, 2014)

Completely done, flue pipe took forever to get hooked those 24 GA pipes can be frustrating, now I just need a cold day to test the heat .


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 29, 2014)

Enzo's Dad said:


> Is that tape on your seams of that pipe?


Yes it's metal tape on the supply duct


----------



## bobdog2o02 (Sep 29, 2014)

I hope you have functioning smoke detectors.


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 29, 2014)

I don't understand why a man can't heat his home with a wood stove the way I have set it up, it was meant to be set up in a manner this way . My way has certainly been used fir many years. .

And yes I have  CO detectors.


----------



## bobdog2o02 (Sep 29, 2014)

And smoke detectors?


----------



## ridemgis (Sep 29, 2014)

Dustin M said:


> Why are y'all whiners?



As a new wood burner, I've read hundreds of posts on this forum.  My experience has been that the moderators and long time members have a pretty good idea of what is safe and what is not.  I don't mean to give you a hard time, but if their advice sounds like whining, maybe you need to listen a little more carefully.  They want to you heat with wood AND stay alive to enjoy the comfort and savings.


----------



## Enzo's Dad (Sep 29, 2014)

Sorry it just doesn't look safe or well thought out. Maybe it could work to heat your house fine and save you money,but if you burned down the house and I don't see an insurance company would give you a dime...

What about flue gases getting into house via the pipe you direct connected into you air ducts


----------



## bholler (Sep 29, 2014)

I dont have a problem connecting to the ducts as long as it is done to code did you check on that?  That flex duct is way to close at best it is going to melt out of the way at worst it will catch fire and with the blower on will spread fumes through the house.  And the galvanized elbow coming off the stove needs to be changed to black pipe you don't want it off gassing and getting spread everywhere either


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 30, 2014)

bholler said:


> I dont have a problem connecting to the ducts as long as it is done to code did you check on that?  That flex duct is way to close at best it is going to melt out of the way at worst it will catch fire and with the blower on will spread fumes through the house.  And the galvanized elbow coming off the stove needs to be changed to black pipe you don't want it off gassing and getting spread everywhere either




Right I can change that elbow. This good advice.
As far as the return plenum it's been that way for 15 years with a different woodstove there.
I can't so anything about it, it's tied up the best it can be.

Also I'm not sure everyone on board understands that new stove is double chambered which has a blower on the bottom to distribute warm air somewhere .
The collar on top is meant to be ducted .


----------



## bholler (Sep 30, 2014)

YEs we do understand that but there are still codes to be followed as far as how far it needs to be noncombustible ducting where you can tap into what type of damper ect.  That stove was built for that purpos but i doubt that it is ul listed so that means that there was no officail testing done on it so airing on the side of caution is a good idea.  And get that return duct away from the vent pipe it needs to be 18"


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 30, 2014)

You guys are right I need to make sure especially for my family that it is up to firecode I guess I can try to find out online or maybe call the fire department and ask


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 30, 2014)

18 inches ok. I might have to reroute it a little differently to see if I can get that out of it. I am dedicated to Burningwood I want to burn it properly and safely.
And about this woodstove at a really good deal because it had a blower on it and a duct tap.

If I can get it to meet all the codes then that's great otherwise looks like I might try for a wood insert in my fireplace upstairs


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 30, 2014)

My local code


----------



## bholler (Sep 30, 2014)

I am sure you can meet all the codes with it you should check with your insurance company to about whether or not they are ok with an unlisted stove.


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 30, 2014)

bholler said:


> I am sure you can meet all the codes with it you should check with your insurance company to about whether or not they are ok with an unlisted stove.


Apparently they are.
This actually is my moms house she doesn't live here we are in process of buying, she's had a woodstove for many years in this basment and she hasn't had any problems.
Also I just bought a lot of firebricks and lined the inside as well and tied the return plenum back as far as I could.
It's almost 18" back from the flue


----------



## bholler (Sep 30, 2014)

Almost is not good enough


----------



## bholler (Sep 30, 2014)

Now quit badgering the guy he is trying and has begun to listen to advice no need to try to scare him.   But you really need to follow code to the t almost is not good enough


----------



## bholler (Sep 30, 2014)

And dustin you really need to research the code requirements on ducting of unlisted solid fuel stoves into your duct work and follow that code carefully there is a big potential for problems here


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 30, 2014)

bholler said:


> And dustin you really need to research the code requirements on ducting of unlisted solid fuel stoves into your duct work and follow that code carefully there is a big potential for problems here


Problems with legalities you mean ?


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 30, 2014)

Would mounting a return grill ) like a open air return suspended above the stove, be a better choice?


----------



## bholler (Sep 30, 2014)

No just look up all of the requirements like an automatic fire damper Distance from the appliance that duct needs to be non combustible ect.  They are legal issues but those codes are there for a very good reason and that is safety


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 30, 2014)

I've been searching for hour and can't find these local codes and requirments. Found a State Farm insurance paper application for a woodstove.
Can ya tell me where to find better info?
Should I call my fire dept and ask to speak to a fire Marshall, does he have to come to my house?


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 30, 2014)

I pulled a code book at work and found some things about wood stoves, very little though.
Basically just clearance


----------



## bholler (Sep 30, 2014)

your local code office there is a section on it in nfpa 211 i just don't have it here with me.  The problem is fire and fumes can spread very quickly through the ducts if something goes wrong it can be done but caution is needed


----------



## bobdog2o02 (Sep 30, 2014)

If something goes wrong you will die from the smoke, not the fire.  If you accelerate the movement of the smoke you will accelerate your exposure to it........


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 30, 2014)

I have working smoke detectors in my home


----------



## Dustin M (Sep 30, 2014)

I'll ride by the fire dept and talk with the Marshall and get his take in this and hopefully get this squared away .


----------



## bholler (Sep 30, 2014)

The fire marshal may or may not know.  I have dealt with some that were very good and some that where so old school it was ridiculous The one near us when we wnt ot his house to clean his chimney we found a single wall bare pipe as the chimney 1/2" from the outside wall when we said it wasnt safe he said well its metal how could the fire get out.


----------



## bobdog2o02 (Sep 30, 2014)

I agree with bholler about the fire Marshall, their job is more about building occupancy and use along with general life safety like panic bars on doors and fire escapes.  Your local code enforcement is more likely to have better guidance.  If you are remote enough to not have permits and code officials find the next closest town that does and ask them.


----------



## begreen (Sep 30, 2014)

Sorry to bring up another problem, but is the flue pipe being reduced in size? It looks like it is being choked down from 8 to 6". That is not supposed to be done. It should be 8" all the way. 

When running this stove you are going to need to watch creosote buildup carefully. I would clean the chimney after every cord of wood burned.


----------



## Dustin M (Oct 1, 2014)

I called and spoke with my local building inspector. I explained what I had and how I had it hooked up .
He told me there isn't a local code for a fire damper, and that the only legal way I can have it tied into my supply duct , is to have a CO DETECTOR inside the supply and have it wired to shut the blower down.

He recomened, from experience he said, was to have a shroud or suspended return and have that suck the radiant heat into the return.
And I wouldn't legally need a CO detector wired into the duct .

also he said on clearance was a minimum of 12" all the way around from any combustible .


----------



## Dustin M (Oct 1, 2014)

begreen said:


> Sorry to bring up another problem, but is the flue pipe being reduced in size? It looks like it is being choked down from 8 to 6". That is not supposed to be done. It should be 8" all the way.
> 
> When running this stove you are going to need to watch creosote buildup carefully. I would clean the chimney after every cord of wood burned.



Yes it is reduced, my chimney has a steel 6" ring in it.
I don't know another way to not reduce the flue, unless I welded a 6" steel ring inside the 8" opening to reduce it??

I had the chimney cleaned before I installed this. And I will inspect every two weeks and clean as necessary.
My chimney is 20' tall.


----------



## bobdog2o02 (Oct 1, 2014)

An in duct CO is not all that hard.... Or expensive.  Can run on the same 24v ac as your HVAC and has the relay needed for shutdown onboard


----------



## Dustin M (Oct 1, 2014)

bobdog2o02 said:


> An in duct CO is not all that hard.... Or expensive.  Can run on the same 24v ac as your HVAC and has the relay needed for shutdown onboard



I work as a HVAC tech so I could order one from work.
The CO detector would be fine to shut down the blower on the woodstove but it still isn't going to make the fire go out and he said if I had it going into the supply duct I would probably need a electronic damper as well but he said that still isn't a guarantee that a CO detector would be best


----------



## bholler (Oct 1, 2014)

well good he seems to know what he is talking about i just want to know what he is saying you need 12" clearance from?  As far as reducing the size what type and size liner is in the chimney?


----------



## Dustin M (Oct 1, 2014)

bholler said:


> well good he seems to know what he is talking about i just want to know what he is saying you need 12" clearance from?  As far as reducing the size what type and size liner is in the chimney?



He said for the stove a minimum of 12" from any wall or combustible .
My chimney has a clay liner and is approx 10x8 for the wood stove side there's another flue for the fireplace I don't know it's dimension off hand


----------



## bobdog2o02 (Oct 1, 2014)

Wow, 12" is really close


----------



## bholler (Oct 1, 2014)

He is absolutely wrong on that measurement unless the stove is ul listed which i assume it is not.  An unlisted stove needs 36" on the back and sides to combustibles.  With a clay liner that large you could absolutely put in an 8" crock


----------



## bholler (Oct 1, 2014)

I just looked at your pic of the clearances he must be calling that a circulating heater but to me that is a wood stove i would stick with the 36"


----------



## Dustin M (Oct 1, 2014)

bholler said:


> I just looked at your pic of the clearances he must be calling that a circulating heater but to me that is a wood stove i would stick with the 36"


We'll look at the photo the stove has more that 3 feet on each side


----------



## Dustin M (Oct 1, 2014)

bholler said:


> He is absolutely wrong on that measurement unless the stove is ul listed which i assume it is not.  An unlisted stove needs 36" on the back and sides to combustibles.  With a clay liner that large you could absolutely put in an 8" crock



I can look into getting a new "crock",
Mine is a steel ring in the chimney, could you appoint me to a place to purchase a 8" ?
Reckon I can chisel it out some and put a new ring in.


----------



## bholler (Oct 1, 2014)

Dustin M said:


> We'll look at the photo the stove has more that 3 feet on each side



i know i can see that you are fine there.


----------



## Enzo's Dad (Oct 1, 2014)

Dustin M said:


> He said for the stove a minimum of 12" from any wall or combustible .
> My chimney has a clay liner and is approx 10x8 for the wood stove side there's another flue for the fireplace I don't know it's dimension off hand


 

Wait ..you don't have a stainless steel liner?  Ok Dustin do you work for the epa, or some other government agency checking to see if hearth.com members will encourage you to break every code possible.

Ok an 8" pipe into a 6" pipe into an unlined flue.....and wait you have one of your airducts touching that illegal exhaust....

Im not being mean but this has become a thread of what not to do. Are we being punked?


----------



## Enzo's Dad (Oct 1, 2014)

bholler said:


> Is it lined and if so has it been inspected for safety?


 

By lined...yes its lined with clay


----------



## bholler (Oct 1, 2014)

It is clay lined not unlined clay is still a perfectly acceptable liner for wood is stainless better sure but if it was inspected by a pro and he said it was ok what is the problem.  And dustin is now doing it to code or at least trying to figure out how to in the beginning he was way off base but he has come around and is trying to figure out how to do it right.


----------



## bholler (Oct 1, 2014)

Enzo's Dad said:


> Ok Dustin do you work for the epa, or some other government agency checking to see if hearth.com members will encourage you to break every code possible.



And what does the epa have to do with codes?  The only thing they have to do with wood stoves is setting standards for new ones They have absolutely nothing to do with codes


----------



## Enzo's Dad (Oct 1, 2014)

bholler said:


> And what does the epa have to do with codes?  The only thing they have to do with wood stoves is setting standards for new ones They have absolutely nothing to do with codes


 
I was going for humor.....sorry


----------



## bholler (Oct 1, 2014)

Ok sorry i didnt get that there have been a few guys ripping on him without really trying to help and it has been bothering me.


----------



## Enzo's Dad (Oct 1, 2014)

Yeah, not ripping ....Its only October plenty of time to figure it out. Its hard to tie into and existing air handler, and you always run the risk of exhaust getting in the house.
When I first considered burning wood I just wanted to buy a used stove on craigslist and put it in with minimal effort. Now watching all the things that can go wrong with a fire I have seen the light. I understand that stoves need draft to burn right, and a liner is part of that. Also seeing how easy it was to clean a lined chimney, I cant imagine doing it any other way. I spent way more than i thought for wood heat, but it was money well spent.


----------



## Dustin M (Oct 1, 2014)

bholler said:


> Ok sorry i didnt get that there have been a few guys ripping on him without really trying to help and it has been bothering me.


Hey thanks man it's nice to have nice people say supportive things, it's rare.

And no  I don't work for the EPA but I have an EPA license for refrigerant lol


----------



## Dustin M (Oct 1, 2014)

Enzo's Dad said:


> Yeah, not ripping ....Its only October plenty of time to figure it out. Its hard to tie into and existing air handler, and you always run the risk of exhaust getting in the house.
> When I first considered burning wood I just wanted to buy a used stove on craigslist and put it in with minimal effort. Now watching all the things that can go wrong with a fire I have seen the light. I understand that stoves need draft to burn right, and a liner is part of that. Also seeing how easy it was to clean a lined chimney, I cant imagine doing it any other way. I spent way more than i thought for wood heat, but it was money well spent.


I eventually will get a stainless steel liner but I'm in the process of buying the house and I have a baby number one on the way so money is kind of tight that's why I'm Burningwood..
I will have it done correctly before I lock my first fire in sure you. Obviously I wanted to be safe for my family.

I've worked on Many and oil burner and I can tell you that that is a fire hazard is if any,  I feel Like wood is more safe
Then having a heat exchanger full of fuel and igniting..


----------



## begreen (Oct 1, 2014)

Dustin M said:


> I called and spoke with my local building inspector. I explained what I had and how I had it hooked up .
> He told me there isn't a local code for a fire damper, and that the only legal way I can have it tied into my supply duct , is to have a CO DETECTOR inside the supply and have it wired to shut the blower down.
> 
> He recomened, from experience he said, was to have a shroud or suspended return and have that suck the radiant heat into the return.
> ...



The 12" clearance for an unlisted stove is only with an approved, ventilated wall shield. It can also be 18" with a wall of brick, but with no shield it's 36" in all directions. What did he say about reducing the flue pipe down?


----------



## Dustin M (Oct 1, 2014)

begreen said:


> The 12" clearance for an unlisted stove is only with an approved, ventilated wall shield. It can also be 18" with a wall of brick, but with no shield it's 36" in all directions. What did he say about reducing the flue pipe down?



I actually didn't ask him about that, I will have to call him back and ask.
I bileve I read in the NC code
Book that you cannot have a reducer.


----------



## bholler (Oct 1, 2014)

many times you are allowed to reduce one size but not 2


----------



## Dustin M (Oct 3, 2014)

I did a maintenance at a guys house today and he had the same woodstove I had only a little bit smaller size it didn't have a label on it either and I ask him where he got it he said he bought it at a local hardware store along time ago


----------

