# removing plate behind kitchen cabinet pull (estucheon plate?)



## DianeB (Feb 24, 2013)

I want to remove the cabinet pull knobs to restore/sand the cabinets and replace the pulls with something more up to date.  The plates are attached somehow, maybe small brads.  Not sure how to get these off. I will most likely have to fill the small brad holes and refish the entire area once I get them off.  Hoping not to damage the cabinet getting them off.  I have about 12 to do. Was thinking maybe I could get a really sharp putty knife under there but don't see that I have a gap to get it under.  One site mentioned a cat's paw tool.  Would seem that would have to be a really small tool.  Any ideas?  Has anyone had any success doing this kind of job or have tips?  
Thanks in advance for any suggestions


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## fishingpol (Feb 24, 2013)

Can you grab the pull with a pair of pliers and put a small block of wood under the pliers to lever them off?  Cat's paws are pretty big, more for removing nails from salvaged lumber and demolition projects.
Maybe a flatbar with the notch on the end using the wood block may pop them off.


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## wenger7446 (Feb 24, 2013)

A picture is worth 1000 words in this case. Can you post a post a picture of the setup?


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## DianeB (Feb 24, 2013)

I've attached 3 pictures - the first with the knob and the plate behind it.  I took of the knob in the second picture and you can see the plate remained.  The 3rd picture is the rear of the door showing the screw that holds the knob.  The rear of the door does not show any other screws holding on the plate so I am assuming the plate had a couple of brads that were tacked down.  The top and the bottom of the plate has little fake nail heads that perhaps is where the brads are located


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## fishingpol (Feb 24, 2013)

A small putty knife under the ends near the brads should do the trick. It will most likely mar the finish a little and there may be a outline of the old pull that may have to be worked out.


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## DAKSY (Feb 24, 2013)

I think I'd use something with a little more rigidity than a putty knife. I'd use a wood chisel with a razor-sharp edge (it can be re-sharpened) & a wood shim to prevent the surface from marring. Another advantage of the chisel is that the beveled edge will allow it to be used like a mini-prybar...You may be able to tap it gently enough to start removing the brad.


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## G-rott (Feb 25, 2013)

If its an old piece of furniture the brads near the ends of the plates are real, a thin mini pry bar or a vaughn finish bar with the flat end might catch the heads and let you pry them out. 

If your not saving the hardware a thin punch can be inserted through the back of the screw hole and tap against the back edge of the plate to loosen it up then you can pry it off from the face. 

Most "new" furniture won't have real brads, just a small nub or two to keep them from spinning once the screw is tightened up.

It might also be "glued" on with layers of finish and cleaning products.  Just work slow and steady the out come should be good.

Garett


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## DianeB (Feb 25, 2013)

G-rott said:


> If its an old piece of furniture the brads near the ends of the plates are real, a thin mini pry bar or a vaughn finish bar with the flat end might catch the heads and let you pry them out.
> 
> If your not saving the hardware a thin punch can be inserted through the back of the screw hole and tap against the back edge of the plate to loosen it up then you can pry it off from the face.
> 
> ...


 Cabinets are probably 35-40 years old.  I don't plan on saving the plates - so pulled out the screw in the rear to see if I could see the plate from the rear.  Appears that only the screw hole in the wood without the plate showing.  will try to find the smallest pry bar.  Tried a putty knife but it was too flexible.  Will researcy the vaughn finish bar to see what I can come up with.   Thanks all for your suggestions!


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## DianeB (Feb 25, 2013)

G-rott said:


> If its an old piece of furniture the brads near the ends of the plates are real, a thin mini pry bar or a vaughn finish bar with the flat end might catch the heads and let you pry them out.
> 
> If your not saving the hardware a thin punch can be inserted through the back of the screw hole and tap against the back edge of the plate to loosen it up then you can pry it off from the face.
> 
> ...


 Is this the tool you mentioned?
http://www.vaughanmfg.com/shopping/Products/90-Degree-Bar__BT90.aspx


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## G-rott (Feb 25, 2013)

That one should work, the one I like has the bear claw head on the other end I think its the 10" scraper bar (no image).  Are you changing the plates or removing them and going with just knobs or pulls?


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## G-rott (Feb 25, 2013)

If the dimples on the end of the plate are brads you could grind/file them off and punch them in/through you will still have the small hole to fill either way.
Re finishing the face will allow you to be a little more drastic with the scraper or pry bar.  If they just seem stuck a heat gun will usually help to pop them loose, an old iron will work in a pinch too.


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## G-rott (Feb 25, 2013)

Google Vaughan Bear Claw Scraper Bar BCSC10, thats the one.  Its a harder steel than the blue scraper, and I think the blade end is thinner at the edge.


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## DianeB (Feb 26, 2013)

G-rott said:


> Google Vaughan Bear Claw Scraper Bar BCSC10, thats the one. Its a harder steel than the blue scraper, and I think the blade end is thinner at the edge.


 thanks!! - just orded it from amazon


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## DianeB (Feb 26, 2013)

G-rott said:


> If the dimples on the end of the plate are brads you could grind/file them off and punch them in/through you will still have the small hole to fill either way.
> Re finishing the face will allow you to be a little more drastic with the scraper or pry bar. If they just seem stuck a heat gun will usually help to pop them loose, an old iron will work in a pinch too.


 apply the iron to the top of the plate to soften the glue and gunk?  great suggestion


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