# No Timberjack... how do you buck without killin your chain?



## Big Donnie Brasco (May 14, 2013)

I am trying to stick with my budget, but I feel like I need a timberjack in order to buck logs without hitting the ground with my chain!

For those of you that DON'T have a timberjack, how do you buck your logs into rounds without biting the dirt?

Thank you!

Don


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## Highbeam (May 14, 2013)

Really? Just cut most of the way through and then roll the log over and finish. If you are too weak to roll a log then cut through carefully in just one spot and roll the log.

I just recently acquired a peavey, which is a log rolling device, and it is great. Saves me from having to use strength to roll a log.


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## Big Donnie Brasco (May 14, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> If you are too weak to roll a log then cut through carefully in just one spot and roll the log.
> 
> .


 
I'll do my best...  

A timberjack is just a peavey with a "jack" on it to elevate the log.


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## Jags (May 14, 2013)

Yep, just a 3/4 cut through.  Roll.  Finish the cut.  I will usually do a whole section 3/4 through and only roll the log once.


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## Big Donnie Brasco (May 14, 2013)

WOW..... this forum SAVING me money for once


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## Jags (May 14, 2013)

Big Donnie Brasco said:


> WOW..... this forum SAVING me money for once


And I HAVE a timberjack.


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## Ralphie Boy (May 14, 2013)

Jags said:


> And I HAVE a timberjack.


 
Yep, me too hardly use it as a timber jack. This time of year, when the ground is so wet, I use more for a peavey because the feet sink into the ground and leave the log on the ground. Sort of defeats the purpose of a "timber jack". When the ground is dry or frozen solid to a depth of 6" more or less, then tis a different story.

Lots of times if I can't roll a log on my own I use a long stout limb as a lever and a small round as a fulcrum and roll it that way.


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## nate379 (May 14, 2013)

I use a Peavey with a log stand on it.  Sometimes I just lift the end of the log and throw a round underneath too, all depending on the size.


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## Big Donnie Brasco (May 14, 2013)

nate379 said:


> I use a Peavey with a log stand on it. Sometimes I just lift the end of the log and throw a round underneath too, all depending on the size.


 
Yea but you live in ALASKA... you guys have the strength of like 10 normal men !!


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## xman23 (May 14, 2013)

Don, your going to get strong opinions. Some will say you don't need one and others wouldn't buck without one. For me it's another tool that I take with me. Some days it gets used all day, and sometime not at all. I'm sure there are lots of ways to lift or roll a log.  But when the log size is right a timber jack works great.


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## Backwoods Savage (May 14, 2013)

I would not be without my cant hook (similar to a peavey). As for the log lift, I have no use for them. They will work you pretty hard and you will constantly be moving it and having to roll it up again and again.

Most times when we fell a tree if you look under the tree you will see spaces where you can get the saw under. That is where we cut the log. If none, then we just cut all the limbs off first and when we have only the trunk the rest is easy. You can even take some short sections from those limbs, lay them down and, using the cant hook, roll the log up onto those limbs you just laid down. Now you won't hit dirt.

If you can't do this, then as some have stated, cut about 3/4 or more through the log in several places; the whole log actually. Then simply roll the log and finish the cut.


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## MrWhoopee (May 14, 2013)

I recently bought the fiberglass handled timberjack from Northern Tool, but I never even take the foot with me. I just use it as a cant hook for rolling the logs. Most of what I've been cutting is too d**n big for the jack, not to mention the continuous repositioning. Cut, cut, cut and roll.

I recently saw a video where they put some 3 or 4 ft long rounds across the fall line, then dropped the tree onto them. Think I'll give it a try.


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## nate379 (May 14, 2013)

Doubt it. I have a bad back. A normal man can still lift a 100-200lbs without too much trouble though... even with a bad back.



Big Donnie Brasco said:


> Yea but you live in ALASKA... you guys have the strength of like 10 normal men !!


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## Backwoods Savage (May 14, 2013)

MrWhoopee said:


> I recently bought the fiberglass handled timberjack from Northern Tool, but I never even take the foot with me. I just use it as a cant hook for rolling the logs. Most of what I've been cutting is too d**n big for the jack, not to mention the continuous repositioning. Cut, cut, cut and roll.
> 
> I recently saw a video where they put some 3 or 4 ft long rounds across the fall line, then dropped the tree onto them. Think I'll give it a try.


 
Depending on the size of the tree, this can easily break the tree that you are felling. But it doesn't hurt to play around with it anyway. (I'd use some very small rounds to fell onto.) We used to drive stakes part way into the ground and see if we could finish the job with the tree.


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## Ralphie Boy (May 14, 2013)

Ralphie Boy said:


> I use more for a peavey


 
 I meant I use it as a cant hook. I don't know why I'm forever inverting those two. Yes I do; it is its a simple case of C.R.I.,  Cranial-Rectal Inversion


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## paul bunion (May 14, 2013)

I tried a timber jack but didn't find it of much use.  If I'm doing logs in my yard I roll them onto 6x6 blocks.  If out in the woods it's a mix of what everyone else says,  cut what's hanging free, look for a clear spot to section up the longer pieces roll your log onto another piece for clearance and do the cut and roll.   All depending on what works for that particular piece.


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## Bigg_Redd (May 14, 2013)

Timberjacks are worthless

1) If you can roll the log you don't need it

2) If you can't roll it you probably won't be able to timberjack it either


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## fossil (May 14, 2013)

C'mon, just find a couple friends and man up


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## BrotherBart (May 14, 2013)

I have had a timberjack for 20 years. The "jack" came off of it the first year. Thing either sunk into the ground or the log would roll over center and accomplish nothing. Works great as a canthook without the jack.


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## BrotherBart (May 14, 2013)

fossil said:


> C'mon, just find a couple friends and man up
> 
> View attachment 102194


 
That was my first craigslist scrounge.


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## xman23 (May 14, 2013)

Archimedes said "Give me *a place to stand* and with a lever I will move the whole world"


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## PapaDave (May 14, 2013)

So far, I've not had to cut very large logs, so the cut part way through and roll method works well for smaller stuff.
Once you get into bigger stuff, I'd use a cant hook (I've used, but don't have one) to roll and even that can be strenuous.
If you can get a log cut into smaller lengths, it's easier to roll.
Or, do as Rick does.


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## DexterDay (May 14, 2013)

Cut most of the way through (3/4) then roll and either cut from the top down (cutting other 1/4). 

Or, on bigger rounds. I like to roll and cut from inside the already cut 3/4, Md cut up. Helps keep the same angle and you don't cut bar down twice. You are cutting from inside the round, and up to the bark. 

Sounds odd.... But I know more people do it.


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## bogydave (May 14, 2013)

I use the log jack now & then in certain conditions .
Like most here, I cut 3/4 thru then roll when I can.

I do find the the jacked up log is easier on the back though.
But a PIA to have to keep moving it  as you cut.


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## bogydave (May 14, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> Cut most of the way through (3/4) then roll and either cut from the top down (cutting other 1/4).
> 
> Or, on bigger rounds. I like to roll and cut from inside the already cut 3/4, Md cut up. Helps keep the same angle and you don't cut bar down twice. You are cutting from inside the round, and up to the bark.
> 
> Sounds odd.... But I know more people do it.


 
Yep, use the top of the bar to finish the cut.
I use that technique a lot. Get the bar tip in just the right place & it pulls itself  up thru on the same plane as the 3/4 cut.
Keep your head in the game when cutting near the tip !


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## MasterMech (May 15, 2013)

Skip the timberjack for sure.  And the cut/roll method works.  That said, you WILL want a cant hook for log rolling.  Very handy tool for the inevitable bar pinch situation too.  Do you need one right this minute, no, but I'd plan on aquiring one for the future.


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## HittinSteel (May 15, 2013)

Until you get a cant hook, a spud bar works fine......I've been using a spud since I started heating with wood.


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## Sean McGillicuddy (May 15, 2013)

Big Donnie Brasco said:


> Yea but you live in ALASKA... you guys have the strength of like 10 normal men !!





Your'e not from Alaska??
Man how big are those guys???


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## firefighterjake (May 15, 2013)

Cut and roll . . . and since I'm so cheap if the tree is too large to just roll with my foot, I'll just cut a sapling and use it as a lever rather than buying a cant dog (although that tool would certainly work better.)


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## Big Donnie Brasco (May 15, 2013)

firefighterjake said:


> Cut and roll . . . and since I'm so cheap if the tree is too large to just roll with my foot, I'll just cut a sapling and use it as a lever rather than buying a cant dog (although that tool would certainly work better.)


 
I'm with you Jake!
I am forever on a budget, and I am a tightwad!  My grandfather used to say that copper wire was invented when someone tried to take a penny from me!


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## MasterMech (May 15, 2013)

Big Donnie Brasco said:


> My grandfather used to say that copper wire was invented when someone tried to take a penny from me!




That's a new one for me....


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## lukem (May 15, 2013)

For anything under 24" I'll just palm it with my left hand and lop off rounds with an 880 using my right. For the bigger stuff I pick it up and put it on a saw buck. No sense in showing off or hurting yourself. 

Either that, or I cut and roll as previously described.  You decide which works out best for you.


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## nate379 (May 15, 2013)

Well... yeah!

I don't have an 880 though? I have a 460 (limbing saw) and a 660 (main saw), will that work?



lukem said:


> For anything under 24" I'll just palm it with my left hand and lop off rounds with an 880 using my right. For the bigger stuff I pick it up and put it on a saw buck. No sense in showing off or hurting yourself.
> 
> Either that, or I cut and roll as previously described. You decide which works out best for you.


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## Big Donnie Brasco (May 15, 2013)

NO... that would be an 1120 !!


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## Jack Fate (May 15, 2013)

I also have timber jack & don't use much .I use the roll method as most you all do & I use a plastic felling wedge to stop bar pinch.I've not heard that mentioned .Anyone else use a felling wedge for on the ground bucking?

just wondering


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## Bigg_Redd (May 15, 2013)

Jack Fate said:


> I also have timber jack & don't use much .I use the roll method as most you all do & I use a plastic felling wedge to stop bar pinch.I've not heard that mentioned .*Anyone else use a felling wedge for on the ground bucking?*
> 
> just wondering


 
Guilty


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## Danno77 (May 15, 2013)

Bigg_Redd said:


> Guilty


Me too. You can't tell which wedge gets used, too. It's fallen into the cut and been kicked out by the saw more than once, which is why this is a bad practice


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## Jack Fate (May 16, 2013)

Danno77 said:


> Me too. You can't tell which wedge gets used, too. It's fallen into the cut and been kicked out by the saw more than once, which is why this is a bad practice


 
Ya ,figured I catch Hell for that.

That's happened a couple times, mostly the smaller rounds.

Sorry to say I will continue this until such time someone lets me in on a better way

Cheers  &  be safe


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## MrWhoopee (May 16, 2013)

Jack Fate said:


> I also have timber jack & don't use much .I use the roll method as most you all do & I use a plastic felling wedge to stop bar pinch.I've not heard that mentioned .Anyone else use a felling wedge for on the ground bucking?
> 
> just wondering


 
No, when the kerf starts to close up, I know it's time to pull out.

The technical term for this is "cutus interruptus".

Also note, because the kerf pinches the top of the bar first, the thrust of the chain will cause the bar to squirt out on its own, if allowed.


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## Ashful (May 16, 2013)

I'm just glad someone here bought the Dexter saw.  Nice rig!


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## DexterDay (May 16, 2013)

Someone from Arborsitsite bought the Pro that I had listed for sale here (and on AS too). Don bought the other 035 I was selling (non Pro 036, but has Pro plastic ) I got full asking on both saws. The one I listed here and there for $400 was a very nice unit, but I didn't think I'd get $400... The guy not only gave me full asking price. But then asked me a week later to sell him this one (after I already promised Don). That guy has given me a bunch of Prop's on AS. 

Don should be pretty happy with this saw. Its almost all new (crank and bottom end are untouched) but everything else has been rebuilt or replaced.


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## bogydave (May 16, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> Don should be pretty happy with this saw. Its almost all new (crank and bottom end are untouched) but everything else has been rebuilt or replaced.


 
 Did it get a muffler mod?


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## DexterDay (May 16, 2013)

Yes. I opened up the factory port (almost double and opened a Slit in front of it). It ran pretty good (really good) When it left here


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## Sean McGillicuddy (May 17, 2013)

You just spoiled that boy ! He will be disappointed if he ever bought a stock saw!


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## Scols (May 17, 2013)

Don I have a Timberjack and I find it very useful. First of all its no more work to reposition a log on the timber jack than it is to constantly be rerolling a log. In fact I usually just drag more of the log into position on the jack rather than putting it down and picking it back up in a new position. As far as the foot sinking into soft ground ,this is easily solved by putting a piece of scrap 2x or plywood underneath. And finally, the 8" that the jack lifts the log makes a big difference in how your back feels at the end of a long session of bucking . A wise man once told me that if you spend your day with your ass higher than your head then your doing something wrong. So why do any extra bending. Plus with a jack you dont have to mess with wedges etc. Besides if you dont like the jack feature it takes about 30 seconds to take it off and now you have a cant hook.


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## Bigg_Redd (May 17, 2013)

Scols said:


> Don I have a Timberjack and I find it very useful. *First of all its no more work to reposition a log on the timber jack than it is to constantly be rerolling a log*. In fact I usually just drag more of the log into position on the jack rather than putting it down and picking it back up in a new position. As far as the foot sinking into soft ground ,this is easily solved by putting a piece of scrap 2x or plywood underneath. And finally, the 8" that the jack lifts the log makes a big difference in how your back feels at the end of a long session of bucking . A wise man once told me that if you spend your day with your ass higher than your head then your doing something wrong. So why do any extra bending. Plus with a jack you dont have to mess with wedges etc. Besides if you dont like the jack feature it takes about 30 seconds to take it off and now you have a cant hook.


 
Hmmm. . . I can't say that I've ever _re-rolled_ a log.  Ever.  With a logjack you are lucky to get 2 cuts before re-positioning.  I'd rather roll a log once (especially if it's a big log) than have a new wrestling match every 2 cuts.  But what do I know?  I think each of us has to figure out what doesn't work. 

As for the @$$ to head ratio,  90% of that can be remedied with a 24"+ bar.  Running those little ticklers with a short bar one is bound to be bent over most of the day.


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## smokinj (May 17, 2013)

Bigg_Redd said:


> Hmmm. . . I can't say that I've ever _re-rolled_ a log. Ever. With a logjack you are lucky to get 2 cuts before re-positioning. I'd rather roll a log once (especially if it's a big log) than have a new wrestling match every 2 cuts. But what do I know? I think each of us has to figure out what doesn't work.
> 
> As for the @$$ to head ratio, 90% of that can be remedied with a 24"+ bar. Running those little ticklers with a short bar one is bound to be bent over most of the day.


 
Get the 82 inch cannon bar and stay in the truck!


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## Bigg_Redd (May 17, 2013)

smokinj said:


> Get the 82 inch cannon bar and stay in the truck!


 
I was going to put a 32" Cannon on my 440,  but it was not compatible with Stihl round bit skip tooth chain.


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## smokinj (May 17, 2013)

Bigg_Redd said:


> I was going to put a 32" Cannon on my 440, but it was not compatible with Stihl round bit skip tooth chain.


 

I think I only paid 60.00 for a stihl 32 inch for my 460.


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## Ashful (May 17, 2013)

Whatever my pursuit, whether it be felling and bucking trees or cooking, I watch what the pros use and wear.  Then I buy and learn to use as close to that as my budget will permit.  I've never seen a pro use a timber jack, but I've seen many peaveys and cant hooks.

After felling and limbing, I grab my 20" stick and top-handle saw, and run down the log marking off 20" increments.  Takes just a few seconds.  Then I grab the 036 or 064, and cut thru 80-90% at each mark.  Roll the log once, and finish each cut.  Easy peasy.


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## Bigg_Redd (May 17, 2013)

smokinj said:


> I think I only paid 60.00 for a stihl 32 inch for my 460.


 
I ended up with a Stihl too but I don't recall what I paid - but I do know I got it at Madsen's


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## Scols (May 17, 2013)

Bigg_Redd said:


> Hmmm. . . I can't say that I've ever _re-rolled_ a log. Ever. With a logjack you are lucky to get 2 cuts before re-positioning. I'd rather roll a log once (especially if it's a big log) than have a new wrestling match every 2 cuts. But what do I know? I think each of us has to figure out what doesn't work.
> 
> As for the @$$ to head ratio, 90% of that can be remedied with a 24"+ bar. Running those little ticklers with a short bar one is bound to be bent over most of the day.


 Roll , reroll, whatever. Either way its better to get it off the ground if possible . Maybe you Paul Bunyon types like to work bent over but I think most prefer not to.


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## bogydave (May 17, 2013)

Techniques that works for some may not work for others.

Share & try different techniques. Find what works best for you & your situation.

Be versatile & able to bend with the situation,
you'll have more fun & become a multi tallented wood cutter 

There's more than one way to buck fire wood. Learn all techniques & tricks you can.


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