# quadrafire 1100 pellet stove does nothing after blowing fuse n replacing it



## pelletstove93 (Dec 7, 2014)

I blew the 5 amp glass fuse while cleaning ashes outta the stove , I bumped the fire pot n shorted it out against the metal casing. ive had this problem in the past but this time just replacing the fuse and realining the pot didn't fix it.the next fuse blu. checked it again put another fuse in and this one exploded and smoke came off of the fuse holder cap. thought I had a bad thermostat so I unhooked it twisted wires together and it came on but 2 minuintes later the fuse exploded again and fuse holder cap was very hot. found bare wires in bottom of stove that led to igniter cut badpart off wired it back up replaced fuse and now I have nothing. any ideas? only source of heat and on disability cant afford a service man. tring to test connections but without the wiring specs I don't know the output to look for. could it have fried the circuit board if so how do you diagnose that? any help please, thanks


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 7, 2014)

I don't understand what you shorted out by bumping firepot.  Do you have the original control box in it? No way to test it unless you take it to a dealer, and he can either test it if he has the equipment, or put it in a stove. Could the fuse holder be shot now and that is what is blowing the fuses, and stopping all juice now? Don't know why a short would do it, but is the #3 snap disc tripped ? Need to set reset button? And are there more shorts still in the stove yet? kap


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 7, 2014)

kappel15 said:


> I don't understand what you shorted out by bumping firepot.  Do you have the original control box in it? No way to test it unless you take it to a dealer, and he can either test it if he has the equipment, or put it in a stove. Could the fuse holder be shot now and that is what is blowing the fuses, and stopping all juice now? Don't know why a short would do it, but is the #3 snap disc tripped ? Need to set reset button? And are there more shorts still in the stove yet? kap


not sure abort more shorts yet, as far as I know its the original junction box, not the control box. it shorted out and blew the fuse, has before. no I have been reading about the snap disc but not sure where it is. do you know and can you point me to it and how to reset it. is it a triped switch or just a push button reset? what shorted out? it was the igniter itself that grounded out and blew the 5 amp glass fuse in junction box, hope that helps you understand


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 7, 2014)

Ok. Now I get it. Couldn't figure out what you shorted by bumping firepot.  Are you saying that you have nothing on stove working now, or just igniter? You can do a continuity test on igniter to see if it is good. If just it is bad, you can start fire manually till you can get a replacement. Otherwise, info above is what to check. kap


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 7, 2014)

#3 snap disc is located on right hand side of stove on feed tube. They usually have a reset button in between spade connectors you just push  to reset. I would unplug stove first.  IF you go to Quads website, you can find an owners manual for the 1000. It might help you figure things out. kap


----------



## Bkins (Dec 7, 2014)

Sounds like you have a stove of worms on your hands.  If it were mine I would unplug the stove at look into, and at all wiring connections.  Open up the junction box, not the control box, and make sure everything is wired so that you will not chance any more shorts.  Then continue on with the help that Kap has given you.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 7, 2014)

I have nothing at all after the last fuse blew. I'm still unsure what caused the last few fuses to explode not just blow. I'm taking an educated guess that the igniter wires caused it. I did fix them but after Cockburn and installing a new fuse I got nothing but a dead stove. Nothing comes on, no leds on circuit board no fans just silence, only good thing I can see is it's not attempting to blow fuses anymore. I'll take that for now. I did download the manual but couldn't find the snapdisc. I did look around feed tube . My feed tube is on the left side facing the stove, right side looking out from stove. I'll check it now and let you know if I find it and what happens. Thanks again, to you both


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 7, 2014)

Ok found snapdisc but I left my power cord at friends house, he was testing the junction box. So I don't know if pushing the button did anything. Didn't seem like it did anything. But the wiring diagram shows the black wire coming off of the fuse holder going to the snapdisc so I'm hoping the lack of power is due to the snapdisc being damaged when the fuse blew rather than the circuit board. I won't have heat if that's the case. Let you guys know tomorrow when I hook it back up.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 7, 2014)

Wishing you the best of luck. You may have to by pass that snapdisc by jumping its wires together.  I hope you know of someone you can test your control box in, to see if it was toasted. kap


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 8, 2014)

Since the fire never entered into the feed tube I'm guessing that this snapdisc can trip for other reasons. So just bypass it to test the stove to help diagnose problems I got it. Who can test the circuit board? Only dealer close by can't. I'm really up against it here seems no one knows much about pellet stove issues unless it's obvious. Tried quadrafires web site but no listings for service centers. Can a computer repair shop possibly test it?


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 8, 2014)

IF you know someone with another stove, you can test it in their stove or if the dealer has a stove, he can test it in it. Just always make sure you unplug stove first, before removing or installing control box, or you run the risk of toasting it.  If you have the clear control box, you can test it yourself.  Unplug stove.  Then jump the vac switch wires and the #1 snap disc wires. Be sure they can't ground out on something.  Plug stove back in. Set the dial on control box to 0. Turn up thermostat.  The following components will each turn on sequentially and run for 10 seconds. Comb. blower  feed motor  conv. fan   igniter. But I would double check the fuse holder that it isn't shot and you need to make a new one, as control box test won't work if fuse holder isn't letting power thru. kap


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 8, 2014)

Ok, got power now, replaced fuse holder it was bad. But igniter, auger isn't working. Going to buy a new thermostat in bit this one was troubling anyway, but have bypass it for now. Not blowing fuses now, so closer. But where do I got from here


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 8, 2014)

I have got a black junction box and black control box, the dealer 20 mins away says they can test it this evening at 4, I hope it's something I wired wrong while replacing fuse holder but since nothing is blown or smoking I'm guessing it's right. Kinda stumped right now calling for snow tonight trying to get it done before sundown, thanks all.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 8, 2014)

The thermocouple could be an issue. Make sure it is touching the inside end of the cover. You can do a continuity test on it also. Does red call light come on with tstat wires jumped ? Need to go from there. kap


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 8, 2014)

No red light. Was hoping to see it at least


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 8, 2014)

I'll clean the wires n replace the cover again to see. Be back soon


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 8, 2014)

Also reset switch isn't doing anything. Maybe it fried or I have a wire on wrong? It has 3 pronged only 2 yellow wires. Don't think I can mess it up it's a switch basically, right.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 8, 2014)

Yes,just a switch. Does the same thing as shutting tstat off and then turning it back on.  With no light, usually means no com between tstat and stove = no juice.  Otherwise comb. fan would come on. kap


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 8, 2014)

Man at local dealer just shot me down in testing board. Saud there is no way to test it except on stove, not what guy said this a.m.. Anyway he Saud if the .5 amp fuse is Goodson board and the board doesn't smell burnt or show signs of damage I'll have to track it down with a tester. Board looks good n smells ok. Any ideas on where to start? Since it's no trying to light or feed pellets I'm worried about the board not telling stove to do these things. Can I bypass each component to test them? Thanks


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 8, 2014)

What you need to do is see where power is, and power isn't, to pinpoint what is wrong. Still no call light for things to even run, if bulb isn't burned out. I am betting the individual components are fine. With all that shorting out and destroying fuse holder, I am betting box got hit. But you need to check on power.  kap


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 8, 2014)

Ok no continuity on the igniter wires. , or the thermocouple wires, the wires in left side of junction box when facing the stove. On front not inside are igniter wires, right? Anyway no continuity on them.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 8, 2014)

If there is no continuity on the igniter, it is shot. Same with the thermocouple. But you have to test on their wires only. Not hooked up. On the igniter, unscrew the ceramic nuts and test the igniter wires themselves. Same thing with thermocouple. A bad thermocouple can stop auger feed and igniter. But you still need to see if tstat is calling for heat. No call light. Need to check bulb.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 9, 2014)

Ok had to walk away from it for a bit. Will look at bulb and see if it appears blown will also test to see if power is getting to it. Can't remember if that light comes on with power or just when it feeds or what, that info will help. To be honest I don't recall seeing it on at all , at least not this year. Ok I disconnected the igniter but the other end of wire dives into a wiring harness so I have not tested it properly, sorry confused thermocouple wires for it. Ok, to test the thermocouple wires, I disconnected it from junction box, removed cover , the wires are connected on the fire pot end, so unwind them? Then test each wire separate?


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 9, 2014)

Ok igniter wires are good, all the way to male adapter on wiring harness. The pig tails coming off of element are good as well. Now the thermocouple wires are twisted together inside the burn camber, amp I right in saying that should not have to unwind them to test continuity ? I unhooked them from junction box and tested them same as I did thermostat wire, it is also good. But I get nothing on the thermocouple wires. Do I need to unhook them? I don't see why but will if needed.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 9, 2014)

Bulb looks good, but maybe not , bulbs can be deceiving. If bulb is bad does that break a circuit that does more than light the bulb?


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 9, 2014)

You don't want thermo wires connected to anything as you can't get a good reading. Just need to see if power is going past light. Light only comes on when tstat calls for heat. Need to know if it is getting power to turn stove on. Don't want you buying a control box if you don't need one, but am betting you do.  We need to follow power route.Make sure outlet is working,  check for power at the black wire from the power cord. If there, check for power at the grey wire on the 7 amp fuse holder. If power is there check for power at he grey wires on snap disc #3. If power is there, time to replace control box.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 9, 2014)

Bulb is blown, but can't find a replacement locally, do I need it to continue? Can I swap it for a new bulb and socket of less than 28 volts?


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 9, 2014)

Ok, I have power at black wire and on fuse holder on both wires, will check snap disc 3 when I'm home in just a bit. Thanks,


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 9, 2014)

Ok I have gotten home and not having continuity on the thermocouple wires bothered me something I did a close visual inspection and felt around and found the wire broken just below the cover, was still touching but I felt a ridge and moved it and there it was. So I know I gotta replace it, thinking this was my short all along after realignment of fire pot. You did say this would stop communication, correct? Bulb is blown will pick one up when I pick up new thermocouple wire.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 9, 2014)

I hope this is all you need. Time will tell. But did you test for power at snap disc #3?  kap


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 9, 2014)

No sir, got excited when I found this hoping it will be only problem. I bought a new bulb $8.00 but not thermocouple wire because it's returnable and technology at store said I can solder connection since it's the actual wire broken not the end inside the cover, but one tech says it has nothing to do with the stove powering up that it should still run but not call for pellets when needed etc. Another tech disagreed some what saying on the 11000 it may 've the problem. So I'm headed home to try soldering wire and replace bulb and will test snap disc 3. Thank you will post again shortly.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 9, 2014)

It will usually stop the auger and igniter, but not the comb. fan.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 9, 2014)

Ok, call light is on, have power at snap disc, also appears to have some power at aubergine motor, I say something because I had forgotten about 2 wires that I had found 3 years ago a white and a black, pulled outta the white connectors on top of motor twisted together causing the motor to I think run constantly. I unhooked them and put them into the connectors and motor has run fine since, till now it I dint running. I did a dumb thing and left my igniter at friends house , had it there to test. I don't need it I remember reading that I can bypass it but not sure how do I twist wires together or desperate them. Exhaust fan is on call light is on.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 9, 2014)

Also I'm not very good with a tester electrical isn't my strong point to say the least, I have power touching snap disc one way but not other. Is that normal how do I check that current is flowing through it properly.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 9, 2014)

Just put the ceramic wire nut on each one separately, and you can start your fire manually. You should have power flowing thru the snap disc,  if things are working. That snap disc shuts the whole stove down if stove overheats.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 9, 2014)

Your motor should run all the time. They did on the older stoves. Remember it will only run for that initial feed. kap


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 9, 2014)

And don't you dare short something out again! lol


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

Put wire nuts in each igniter wires seperately, also used a jumper at snap disc, have exhaust fan and call light no combustion fan or anger? Found a control box but afraid I don't need it or worst I install it and there's another problem and I fry the new one. Since call light is in does that mean control box is good?


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

Also the ceramic wire nuts were bad, the dealer doesn't have any plus they are $11.00 each. Can't I just solder wires to reinstall igniter? It's good check ohms on it have 38, have continuity to junction box. Check the insulation the entire length of wire since the dealers man said he has seen that wire short out where it goes through the fire box to the outside. .


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

After sorting thru this thing I'm hoping there's nothing left to short out except if I bump the firepot again , that seems to be a bad design as there is barely any clearance between igniter and walk of stove. Or it's not set up right? Maybe don't know. The igniter is on the right side of stove facing stove, does that sound right? Will look circa picture online , thanks and will do final checks in a.m. I guess, after I hear back from you guys. The dealer has tried to sell me a control box from get go but offered no other advice on cause of problem to start with or a service man since they are backed up for 3 weeks. Wish I knew more as whole at store yesterday 4 separate people came in doing self repairs due to the wait and charges of service, $125.00 first hour $65.00 every hour after plus parts. Not sure but sounds reasonable if you can afford it. Need to get into this work during winter , make a lil cash and help people.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 10, 2014)

Call light on does not mean control box is good. Check for power at combustion fan, when stove is calling for heat. If it isn't running creating a vacuum in firebox, auger won't run. If there is no power to fan, time for a new box. You can check the slots where control box plugs into to make sure there is no damage. ALWAYS make sure you unplug stove before removing or installing a control box, or you will toast it. kap


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 10, 2014)

If you just solder wires together, you are just making another chance for a short. You can't wrap them in tape as it will melt. What's cheaper, couple ceramic nuts, or toasting things again? Shop on line for them.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 10, 2014)

As far as where the ignite is placed, you will need to find a photo as hard to explain. It has a housing it sits in unless you have ceramic pot.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 10, 2014)

I have seen ceramic nuts going for 3.00 each on mountain view hearth products. Don't know what shipping is. kap


----------



## Harvey Schneider (Dec 10, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> Can't I just solder wires to reinstall igniter?





pelletstove93 said:


> I have nothing at all after the last fuse blew. I'm still unsure what caused the last few fuses to explode not just blow. I'm taking an educated guess that the igniter wires caused it. I did fix them but after Cockburn and installing a new fuse I got nothing but a dead stove. Nothing comes on, no leds on circuit board no fans just silence, only good thing I can see is it's not attempting to blow fuses anymore. I'll take that for now. I did download the manual but couldn't find the snapdisc. I did look around feed tube . My feed tube is on the left side facing the stove, right side looking out from stove. I'll check it now and let you know if I find it and what happens. Thanks again, to you both


Solder can't take the high temperature that the igniter leads can see. Check with a local hardware store or electrical supply for ceramic wire nuts.
The outside of the igniter is not at Voltage (or at least it should not be). If you cut through the insulation on the wires that would explain the short circuit. If you simply grounded the outside if the igniter and caused a short, the igniter was defective.
Fuses sometimes explode when they are delivering power to a dead short.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 10, 2014)

He had a strand of wire from the igniter grounding out


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

Ok on to combustion fan, yes I agree if solder won't work here it's a no brained for ceramic nuts even if I had to.pay $11.00, each for them, one fell off 3 years ago when I 1st moved in here and I replaced it with a heavy duty wire but, it's still good no signs of damage. I never drop hit ash down below those wire always concerned me. So I can temporarily use the heavy duty ones till I order some online. Yes Harvey had some bare igniter wires that issue is repaired as well, igniter shows 38 ohms , is that in range? Kappel do I need to check.power to vacuum switch at this stage or just move to combustion fan? As I mentioned earlier I used a jumper on #3 snap disc no change but I do have power to it.I'll pull vacuum tube make sure it's clear check.nipple on switch also while I'm at it. Will post results in few mins


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)




----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)




----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

this is the only area that shoes any damage at all. I opened the box checked the .5 amp fuse it is good, the card on inside us perfect to the sight and doesn't smell burnt, I'm told they always do?? Can upload one of inside if needed just didn't take pictures of it while it was open.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 10, 2014)

Vac switch doesn't start comb. fan. It is the other way around.Have you checked where control box plugs into for any damage?


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

The strip in junction box? Not close, kinda dumb that I didn't thought of it gave it a quick once over and back together. Will check that as well. So if comb fan has power the next place is vac switch?


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 10, 2014)

If there is power to the comb. fan and it isn't running, it is bad. When stove is calling for heat, try giving it a spin to see if it is stuck. If there is no power to it, check the wire harness, otherwise the control box is bad. You can always bench test the comb. fan with power to see if it will work. kap


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 10, 2014)

I wish someone was watching this post and could download the running sequence on here as I don't know how to do it. Dm? Tj?


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 10, 2014)




----------



## kappel15 (Dec 10, 2014)

Thank you.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

Ok , this is wherever re my confidence goes out the window. Followed the wires from combustion fan back to a capacitor , has 4 prongs on it only 3 being used. 2 go to combustion fan the other jumps over from another capacitor right beside it on it's right. I have 178 volts on cap on right side but on the cap that is leading to the combustion fan nothing. I'm not testing it properly no doubt because the jumper wire is hot coming of off the other  cap so either the cap is bad or I'm testing it improperly.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 10, 2014)

There should be two wires coming off the fan. Is there a connection you can pull apart in the wires and just run 110 to the fan to see if it works? Just the fan only. And are you mixing up wires of comb. fan with auger motor? Capacitor? I need to leave for a while, so hopefully someone else can step in and keep you going. look at diagram tj downloaded to see how stove works. kap


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

I'm testing the wire coming from harness along with the only other one I can get a reading from, 178 volts?? But I traced the blue lead coming from harness to the combustion fan cap and nothing. I'm confused what this jumper wire is. If it's factory or another add on by the original owner, there's been a few. Also cap to exhausted blower just sparked a lil and fan quit I wiggled them and it started again. So there may be something there.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

looks good to me. Also the Brown wire on exhaust cap is shorting out inside the insulated cover on blade. Not sure if it's due to another issue or bad connection.Will try fan now some how


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

Ok, just plugged fan in direct, after several tried I finally got the right combination of wires. It hums, trust but no dice.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 10, 2014)

It's time for some pictures because I have NO IDEA what you are dealing with!  How old is this stove and are you the original owner?  Who has worked on the stove besides you?  If there are so many issues with the wiring, it might very well be time to spend some money to get a new wiring harness and an electrician to rewire it.  Test each motor and snap disc to make sure they all work and put a new harness in.
If I inherited that thing, that's what I would do.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 10, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> Ok, just plugged fan in direct, after several tried I finally got the right combination of wires. It hums, trust but no dice.



What does that mean or are you using a cell phone with the darn 'completion' function that I hate so much??


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 10, 2014)

Post before you said fan was running till cap shorted. Now you say you wired direct and it only hums. Something is not kosher here. And if there are a bunch of wires in here from a previous owner, god only knows what goes on inside. I know finances are short,but I can only do so much over the internet to try and help. Read the diagram tj posted for you, so you know how stove operates. kap


----------



## Harvey Schneider (Dec 10, 2014)

kappel15 said:


> Post before you said fan was running till cap shorted. Now you say you wired direct and it only hums. Something is not kosher here. And if there are a bunch of wires in here from a previous owner, god only knows what goes on inside. I know finances are short,but I can only do so much over the internet to try and help. Read the diagram tj posted for you, so you know how stove operates. kap


From what I have followed of this thread, I believe he has a capacitor run motor on his combustion blower. That is why it ran when he saw a spark at a capacitor and it didn't run when he hot wired it on the bench. 
Also, he said he saw 178 Volts. That is the peak Voltage of a 125Vac line. Meters should be reporting RMS not peak value. That makes me suspicious that he is looking phase to phase with a phase shift capacitor rather than line to neutral.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 10, 2014)

This is an old old stove.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

Sorry guys, I'll try again. The exhaust fan was running but I saw a spark and it quit. The combustion fan hasn't been on yet since the fuse blew. I plugged it in direct no dice. It hums.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

Not original owner no, I'm guessing someone else has worked in it as I have found issues I'm sure shouldn't be there. Certainly the factory didn't send it out with loose wires. It is a quadra fire 1100I it's old enough quadra fire has retired it.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

As I mentioned I'm not very good with assorted colors wires. House wiring I'm good with, but not this. So I tested the cap that runs the exhaust fan only combination of wires that gave a reading was 178 volts, the reading leading to the combustion fan from wiring harness read 2.7 volts.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

Is that diagram for my stove? Also no one not even my local dealer has a spec sheet on wiring diagrams. If I knew what the readings were I could have my buddy come by, he knows the language of electric. Just hard to believe a blown fuse , ( from dead short in igniter wires )  burnt up the fuse holder, blew the bulb and Burnt out the combustion fan. Who knows what else at this point.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 10, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> Sorry guys, I'll try again. The exhaust fan was running but I saw a spark and it quit. The combustion fan hasn't been on yet since the fuse blew. I plugged it in direct no dice. It hums.


The exhaust fan IS the combustion fan!  If that is a capacitor start motor as Harvey said (I believe him), then it sounds like a new style motor and a rewire is in order.  OR it sounds like a really jerry rigged setup.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 10, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> As I mentioned I'm not very good with assorted colors wires. House wiring I'm good with, but not this. So I tested the cap that runs the exhaust fan only combination of wires that gave a reading was 178 volts, the reading leading to the combustion fan from wiring harness read 2.7 volts.



It sounds like you're reading voltage drops and not applied voltage or voltage to neutral.  It's time to get your electrician buddy a case of beer and an invite.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 10, 2014)

Here's the manual for the stove for the electrician. Sadly, no schematic but at least an explanation of each component.
Maybe the 1200 is close enough that he can compare wiring logic.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

Well I'm at his house now, he was taught electrical by his dad a union electrician for life but like me hasn't fooled with electronic devices much so doesn't understand it either.tried to get a service man this morning but they are now backed up till 2nd week of January. This is my heat source and very limited in finances. So it's up to me. Cant afford parts I don't need just to eliminate them as the problem that's just not happening unless I know they are bad. Told wife and kids it's either heat and no Christmas or Christmas and no heat, even then it would be March before I could buy all these parts just as diagnostic tools.Thank you all, I believe I'm getting there, need a combustion fan sounds like since it won't run when pulled in directly. Then I'll go to next component I guess. Unless you tell me different.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

Thanks but already have the manual.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 10, 2014)

have you thought about yanking out the pellet stove and replacing it with a wood burning insert, if your chimney supports one?  They can be had quite cheaply on craigslist.


----------



## Harvey Schneider (Dec 10, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> I'm testing the wire coming from harness along with the only other one I can get a reading from, 178 volts?? But I traced the blue lead coming from harness to the combustion fan cap and nothing. I'm confused what this jumper wire is. If it's factory or another add on by the original owner, there's been a few. Also cap to exhausted blower just sparked a lil and fan quit I wiggled them and it started again. So there may be something there.


How many wires attach to the combustion blower motor?


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 10, 2014)

Have you looked at the boxes of stove operation? So you know what sequence the stove uses? Remember things were shorted out at least 3 times. I am betting your combustion/exhaust fan is fine. May need some tlc on the wires and capacitor if it was sparking. The convection fan(fan that blows hot air into room), wont come on until stove gets warm enough, or if you jump the wires together.  Thing you need to do is make sure of Combustion blower. Whether it is good or bad, or wiring to it is bad. Then go on to next phase. Check with Harvey or tj, as they are better at electrical then  I am as it is my weak point. kap


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 10, 2014)

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/no-exhaust-blower-in-the-1100i-quadrafire.54485/

Here is the combustion motor schematic posted by jtakeman!  It sure does have a capacitor!!


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 10, 2014)

Thanks tj


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

Harvey there as 3 wires running to combustion fan. If I remember right. Not home headed there now. Came to town trying to get a service man. No luck


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 10, 2014)

Should be 4 counting the green ground, but that could be gone.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

Fan may be good dealer just said. Because it's on a capacitor you can't use line voltage you have to charge the capacitor . Headed home


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 10, 2014)

Question is why was there a spark from the capacitor?


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

Said to check connector, may just be a bad or loose connection, dirty? Said he's never seen a cap go bad on a pellet stove. Doubts it's a problem. Said to do exactly what you are having me do. Component by component and check wiring harness for continuity


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 10, 2014)

if you want to technical service manual WITH the schematic, here is a link where you can subscribe one time to get it.  

http://www.scribd.com/doc/87475088/Quadrafire-1100-Insert-Technical-Service-Manual


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

Thank you, but I'm getting there I think. Don't like what I'm finding but here goes. Snap disc #1 goes to the cap that runs the combustion fan, not power to snap disc. And that comes from the box. Control box. So I'm unsure of it it should have power right on start up? I believe so as the anger won't turn till you have vacuum and no vacuum till the combustion fan is running. I've learned a lot from you guys and hands on trial and error. Do I sound correct on this that that process is right or does something else need to happen before the power is sent to snap disc #1. I cleaned the connection on the other cap that sparked so far so good I think it was dust bunnies shorting it a bit. Hate those bunnies.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

That manual is priceless! Wish I'd had it sooner, thanks so much. Will have to study it though. I'm confused Already as it contradicts itself on the combustion fan. Says the control box has nothing to do with it that it's controlled by #1 snap disc then it says if I've checked them and all is well and still no fan to replace the .5 amp fuse on board if blown, if continues to blow replace board. My .5 amp is not blown. But if snap disc controls fan then why is it then saying to replace box. Can I swap snap disc 2 power just to see it fan runs? Section 8 of manual if anyone wants to read it.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 10, 2014)

The #1 snap disc only runs the CONVECTION fans. These are the fans that blow the hot air into the room. Snap disc #2 will shut the auger down if stove overheats. Snap disc #3 will shut whole stove down if a fire tries to feed back into hopper. These two switches only shut stove down in case of a problem. They have nothing to do with the exhaust fan! The rest you pretty much have right. Keep looking at the boxes and their sequence. You have to follow the power. And remember that it is only their when stove is calling for heat. You have the call light. Next step is the combustion fan/exhaust fan(this is the same fan, just two different names for it). This is the fan you are having trouble with.  If wiring is good, and no power to it, then the control box is burnt. kap


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 10, 2014)

Yes, you are getting totally confused with the fans.  You have TWO convection fans, one on each side, that blow hot air into the room once the stove heats up.  The other fan is, WE ARE ASSUMING, the one you are having trouble with but I'm not sure of anything after reading these posts!  You said 'the other capacitor'.  Unless ALL of the fans have capacitors, the schematic shows one capacitor for the combustion fan.  We need pictures!!


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

Pictures on way, there is one cap for exhaust fan one cap for the combustion fan. The guy at dealers store argued that point till I found a picture then he said there are 2 different 1100I models I have the other,  lol. I'm truly sorry if I'm confusing you guys. I'll slow down and double check my posts before posting them.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

looks like one big cap but it's 2 one on bottom of picture is combustion fan , other on top is exhaust fan.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

Well it may have posted 2 pictures. One speaking of 1 in top picture. Bottom picture the cap is on left, exhaust fan cap on right, they are side by side. Sorry about flash. The guy at dealers said other model only had 1cap


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

The technical manual said that the control box doesn't control fans, any of them, that snap disc does. Then says to replace snap disc so it's good and check wires if they are good then check .5 amp fuse on board if blown replace if continues to blow then replace box. If it has nothing to do with the fans why even check it is what I'm confused about. But honestly common sense is telling me that it sends power to the #1 disc so if not power then board must be bad unless in the start up something else must happen before power is sent to disc. I'm sure that's not it that the #1 disc must power up on start up to run combustion fan and then run auger. But my igniter isn't coming on either. And it's good and has power to it. Snap disc 1 as well?? Still studying. Thanks I'm almost home I think.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 10, 2014)

You're a long way from home, I think!  AGAIN, you have two CONVECTION FANS, one on each side.  You have ONE combustion/exhaust fan.  They are called two different things by different companies/people.  It appears that all the fans have capacitor start.  I bet if you open up the other side and look at that fan, there will be one capacitor over there too.  
As Kap said, Snap #1 on our stoves controls the CONVECTION FAN, not the combustion fan.  It has power to it all the time and is ready to start the CONVECTION FAN when the stove gets hot enough.  Look at the schematics in the 1200 manual.  I'll attach the owners manual for the 1200 that has the schematic all in one.  I'm assuming that the 1100 is close in design.  I still think you need to invite your electrician buddy over to actually look at your stove and trace wires.  There really aren't a lot of them.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

The 1200 is completely different from mine dealer says. And yes they are called different things by different companies. These are large convection and small convection fans and a negative exhaust blower.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 10, 2014)

Well I've been reading and now have fans figured out as to what does what with exception of one that just says that it relievers air to the front of the stove. The other heats the room, I'm guessing they both do? And the exhaust also creates the vacuum which should run the auger but it's not. So that's why there's no power to that fan because it has to reach the proper temp? Am I close? Lol


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 10, 2014)

that is correct. The large and small convection fan blow the heat into the room. The negative exhaust blower is the one you need to get running.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 10, 2014)

Can't see much of it, but the fan in picture looks like a convection fan


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 10, 2014)

Brain hurts. I'm going to bed.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

The negative exhaust fan is running, has been all along.Well since I replaced the fuse holder


----------



## Harvey Schneider (Dec 11, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> The negative exhaust fan is running, has been all along.Well since I replaced the fuse holder


This shows how important it is to use the right words to describe the problem. I think that everyone has been trying to fix the wrong problem. This is frustrating and a waste of everyones time.
The convection fan, the one that delivers heated air to the room won't turn on until the stove is up to temperature. The stove won't come up to temperature unless there are pellets burning in the fire pot. There won't be pellets burning unless the auger is delivering them and they have been ignited.
Exactly what is wrong with your stove right now?


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 11, 2014)

Exhaust fan has been running all along? UFFDA   Ok. Now is the time to bypass  the vac switch by jumping its wires together. Remember this has to sense a vacuum to pass the electricity on to the auger. If auger starts after you do this (and stove is calling for heat), we know you either have a vacuum problem or the vac switch is bad, or bad connections. If auger doesn't start after this when the stove calls for heat, next step is to bypass #2 and #3 snap disc by jumping their wires together. And make sure all wires you jump can't get grounded. kap


----------



## SteveA (Dec 11, 2014)

I'm going to be a lacky and not read all 100+ posts.   If the fuse blows (explosively) the instant it is plugged in, you obviously have a severe short either accross the line or to ground.    Replace the fuse, but don't plug in.   Hook an ohm meter up across the two phase plugs of the cord.    Start unplugging components until you see the ohm meter go up in resistance, and replace that component.   If that brings you no joy, tie both prongs together and connect the ohm meter from there to the ground pin & repeat the same procedure.   Remember that a chaffed wire touching metal can do this, so look carefully for wire knicks.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 11, 2014)

The short was a wire off the igniter. We are way past that. Had to replace whole fuse holder. Now trying to get stove components to run. Thanks


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 11, 2014)

I only sent the 1200 manual so that you could compare the logic of the electrical circuits with what you have.  Look at the circuit that controls the room convection fan (yes, I know you have two) to see if the wires run the same way through snap disk #1.  Also look at the auger circuit and trace wires to see if they are the same through the vacuum switch and snap disk. 
I also sent you a link where you can actually get YOUR stove's electrical schematic for a few bucks.  That would save a lot of time and confusion.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 11, 2014)

Your next step is to do what Kap said in his last post.  Bypass the vacuum switch and tell us exactly how you did it and what the results are.


----------



## Bkins (Dec 11, 2014)

I think he is over his head on this stove problem.  First he keeps going to different dealers and tries to compare what they are telling him to what he is being asked to do here.  Then you have auto correct on the phone and also a misunderstanding on what blower is called what.  Ad in a buddy who doesn't seem to want to come over and try to help get this stove going.  Doesn't sound like he has bought the manuals that have been suggested either.

Just a guess here but after 5 pages of posts maybe it time to start fresh if 93 will stay away from these 2 dealers who don't seem to be able to help him.  There is no reason for them to give away information for free either.

It seems he has been asked to do something by the forum members that are trying very hard to help him, and then he does something that a dealer has mentioned and what the forum members, Kap, and Tj, have asked to be done goes out the window.  Time to use either one or the other as it's very confusing to everyone, including him.

These stoves are not that hard to troubleshoot if you do what your asked to do.  Asked to do by Kap, or Tj.

Maybe try fresh and do step by step what your asked to do.  I truly hope your able to get your stove running and without having to put in a control box or board.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 11, 2014)

Bkins said:


> I think he is over his head on this stove problem.  First he keeps going to different dealers and tries to compare what they are telling him to what he is being asked to do here.  Then you have auto correct on the phone and also a misunderstanding on what blower is called what.  Ad in a buddy who doesn't seem to want to come over and try to help get this stove going.  Doesn't sound like he has bought the manuals that have been suggested either.
> 
> Just a guess here but after 5 pages of posts maybe it time to start fresh if 93 will stay away from these 2 dealers who don't seem to be able to help him.  There is no reason for them to give away information for free either.
> 
> ...




CAN WE HAVE AN AMEN????


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 11, 2014)

Boy oh boy ....  there is just no hope with this one, I've followed this thread from the start, and it seems that the OP has not taken the info here and applied it to his problem.

..... I'll go get me some popcorn and a beer or two and sit back and watch the show.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

Ok need a electrical man to answer this. The Gray wire coming off of the fuse in junction box has 116.7 volts at junction box the wire runs straight to #3 snap disc, at snap disc it has 2.7 volts. Continuity test on wire reads good. I've been told you have to test wires with a load on them that continuity won't cut it. Is this right.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

What info haven't I applied? Point it out cause


CladMaster said:


> Boy oh boy ....  there is just no hope with this one, I've followed this thread from the start, and it seems that the OP has not taken the info here and applied it to his problem.
> 
> ..... I'll go get me some popcorn and a beer or two and sit back and watch the show.


 I don't know what it is. Followed every step kappel gave me can't hire a service man for lil over a month and my friend knows nothing about electronic devices only house wiring. If I'm missing something tell me something I can do it. I've found 4 problems using kappels advice and corrected them. But sometimes we canter the woods for the trees.


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 11, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> What info haven't I applied? Point it out cause



This has it in a nutshell !



Bkins said:


> I think he is over his head on this stove problem.  First he keeps going to different dealers and tries to compare what they are telling him to what he is being asked to do here.  Then you have auto correct on the phone and also a misunderstanding on what blower is called what.  Ad in a buddy who doesn't seem to want to come over and try to help get this stove going.  Doesn't sound like he has bought the manuals that have been suggested either.
> 
> Just a guess here but after 5 pages of posts maybe it time to start fresh if 93 will stay away from these 2 dealers who don't seem to be able to help him.  There is no reason for them to give away information for free either.
> 
> ...


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

Also jumped snap disc #1  both convection fans came on and run, so all fans are good, auger isn't stuck, New thermocouple, New 5 amp fuse and fuse holder, prepared igniter wires that were shorting out. The exhaust fan has been on since fuse holder repair as well as call light but no auger and the igniter isn't coming on. Snap disc 3 should have power to both sides to work stove, right? That wire reads 116.7 volts on wiring harness at junction box but only 2.7 volts at snap disc while  continuity test reads good. Burnt wire in harness? That wire comes directly off of the fuse holder that fried.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

CladMaster said:


> This has it in a nutshell !


My friend I've done everything I've been asked to do or I wouldn't have gotten this far. I won't mess with electrical wires without advice. So did you see a step I missed is what I'm asking.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

Ok so that does sound right. My friend trying to tell me that the continuity test reads good so I'm wrong. I've tested water heater elements that were bad but showed continuity even though they were burnt into. The hard water deposits made the continuity test show good. If that can happen anything can.


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 11, 2014)

Take snap disc 3 out of the loop, connect the two wires for that disc together and see if the stove will start.  << If this works replace the snap disc.

Auger -- Check hopper lid / area for a switch if it has one, check wires are OK and connected to the switch. This switch only works when the hopper lid is closed to operate the auger to feed pellets from the hopper.

Igniter -- Check wires from igniter to the main board. If there is a fuse inline, check this and it's casing / housing / holder, if no fuse inline, look for one on the control board where the wires go to get power.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

Have bypassed #3 same results, this model has no switch in lid I can find and am told it doesn't, no inline fuse on igniter, only fuse left is .5 amp on circuit board in control box, it is also good. I decided to start fire manually just hoping it might ride off once saddled up. No go, but the green led and the red led are on now that are on top of control box. Convection fans didn't come on once hot either, maybe it didn't get hot enough to run them, idk


----------



## keepingmamahappy (Dec 11, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> Have bypassed #3 same results, this model has no switch in lid I can find and am told it doesn't, no inline fuse on igniter, only fuse left is .5 amp on circuit board in control box, it is also good. I decided to start fire manually just hoping it might ride off once saddled up. No go, but the green led and the red led are on now that are on top of control box. Convection fans didn't come on once hot either, maybe it didn't get hot enough to run them, idk


 Not sure if this has been addressed before, but has the auger motor been tested and verified to be good?


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 11, 2014)

keepingmamahappy said:


> Not sure if this has been addressed before, but has the auger motor been tested and verified to be good?



OK, good question, now we need this info to help more.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

It was running before all this happened but I know that means nothing, no I haven't tested it totally, did have 119 volts to it on white wire at one point. But it still isn't running. Convection fans didn't come on once hot so I jumped them and it's hot. The aubergine motor may be an issue or vac switch? Idk maybe control box after all how ever I think red led means stove is running correctly? Have read that again.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

Will try n get a few good pics of auger motor as it has a few wires that original owner played with I believe. I have tried to find proper wiring of motor to insure it's wired right. He pulled wires outta the motor and spliced them together so auger ran all the time, I switched it and it's been running for 3 years.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

Gonna look for a pic of a new auger motor to see wires.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

trying to point to spot wire was removed


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

this is white wires hole, other pic is for a black wire.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

Auger isn't jammed, checked that can turn it by hand.


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 11, 2014)

From the manual ....



> *START YOUR FIRST FIRE*
> 
> a. Now plug the insert in. The combustion blower will come on. Even though the thermostat is not calling for heat, the combustion blower will stay on for approximately 10 minutes. This is normal.
> 
> ...



Now, lets see ....

1.   Does the stove do what is described in a ? Combustion motor run for 10 mins and then turn off ?

2.   Do you get a red light when you follow the instructions in b ?

3.   Do pellets get fed into burn pot if you follow instructions in d ?

OK, now the next part below .......



> *GENERAL OPERATION INFORMATION*
> 
> d. After your insert has been burning for approximately 15 minutes, the convection blowers will automatically turn on. These blowers transfer heat from your insert into the room, and will continue to run after the thermostat has stopped calling for heat or until all of the heat has been extracted from the insert.



It takes 15 minutes for the convection blowers to turn on, that is why they did not turn on when you did a manual start, unless there is something else wrong with the stove, but the only way to find that out is to see if the auger is feeding fuel for 20 minutes or more to make these come on.


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 11, 2014)

White and black wires in the picture ...... not connected to anything ..... where did these go ?    Hmmm !


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

Yes to a, b and no to d.


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 11, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> Yes to a, b and no to d.



And those two wires in the picture you posted ?


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 11, 2014)

So, the convection fans didn't  come on cause the stove didn't  get hot enough. Now,  go to my first post on this page and follow those instructions. Let us know how it goes. kap


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 11, 2014)

kap ...... the auger does not seem to be feeding fuel ...... so he needs to find out if it's getting told to turn on to feed fuel.

From the manual ....

*5. VACUUM SWITCH
*
A. The vacuum switch is located on the left side of the insert, adjacent to the feed motor. To access, you must remove the left side panel. This switch turns the feed system on when vacuum is present in the firebox.

B. If the exhaust or the heat exchanger system is dirty or plugged, the vacuum switch will keep the feed system from starting.

C. If the firebox door is open, the vacuum switch will keep the feed system from starting.

He also needs to check on those two wires in the photo above.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

Ok I did jump vac switch when you asked me to. Had no effect. Do I jump #2 #3 at same time or individually


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

Wife's sick got fun down street for her and I'll follow new instructions. The wires on anger have been working for 3 years so I'm guessing they were in right place. White wire is fed straight from power cord so yes it has power but black wire feeds from vac switch I think is how I read it. Am I understanding path?


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 11, 2014)

Jumping the vac switch should have done the trick and kicked the auger on to feed once you pressed the reset button as in the instructions for d

If this did not work, you have a bad connection somewhere between the vac switch and the auger motor.

Why are those two wires not plugged into anything ..... are they the power leads for the auger motor ?


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 11, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> Wife's sick got fun down street for her and I'll follow new instructions. The wires on anger have been working for 3 years so I'm guessing they were in right place. White wire is fed straight from power cord so yes it has power but black wire feeds from vac switch I think is how I read it. Am I understanding path?


The white wire should be the neutral/ground.  It's not the feed.  Snap disk #3 SHOULD be the stove safety that will shut down ALL power in an overfire condition.  The fact that your combustion motor runs and the convection motors run (when snap disk #1 is jumped) tells you that snap disk #3 is good.  Earlier, I believe you were measuring voltage across the disk and not connection to chassis ground, as you should have been.  In any event, #3 is OK and doesn't need to be jumped. 

 Snap disk #2 should be closed.  If you check it for continuity, you should see zero ohms.  It should be wired in line with the vacuum switch and the auger motor.  Check that out.  If it is not closed (zero ohms), then that's your problem. A wire should be going from the other side of the vacuum switch to the snap disk #2 if your schematic is what we are all ASSUMING.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 11, 2014)

CladMaster said:


> Jumping the vac switch should have done the trick and kicked the auger on to feed once you pressed the reset button as in the instructions for d
> 
> If this did not work, you have a bad connection somewhere between the vac switch and the auger motor.
> 
> Why are those two wires not plugged into anything ..... are they the power leads for the auger motor ?


Let's not add to the confusion here!  On Quads, there's a safety snap disk in line with the vac switch and auger motor and IT could be the problem.  Maybe this is not the case with Ashley's.  Let's talk Quadish, not Ashleyish.

Granted that he still has not told us what those two wires are doing hanging bare and obviously burned.


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 11, 2014)

If those two wires are the leads that power the auger motor, you need to see if the black wire that goes to the auger motor has voltage with the vac switch bypassed (wires jumped).

Also, you need to make sure that you have just enough bare wire to go down in those connector holes to make a good contact to supply power to the motor. The casing on the white wire looks to be a little burnt ... possible arcing.



tjnamtiw said:


> Let's not add to the confusion here!  On Quads, there's a safety snap disk in line with the vac switch and auger motor and IT could be the problem.  Maybe this is not the case with Ashley's.  Let's talk Quadish, not Ashleyish.
> 
> Granted that he still has not told us what those two wires are doing hanging bare and obviously burned.



Hmm !    I guess you not been reading my posts !   I've been following the manual for *his* stove to try and help find the problem and not my manual so lets cut all the bullish out eh !


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 11, 2014)

CladMaster said:


> If those two wires are the leads that power the auger motor, you need to see if the black wire that goes to the auger motor has voltage with the vac switch bypassed (wires jumped).
> 
> Also, you need to make sure that you have just enough bare wire to go down in those connector holes to make a good contact to supply power to the motor. The casing on the white wire looks to be a little burnt ... possible arcing
> 
> ...


I don't want to get in a pissing contest with you while we are trying to help this guy.  He has NO schematic to work with since his manual has none.  I have given him a link to get it but he hasn't done that yet.  We know he has 3 snap disks and we are assuming since it is a Quad that it's wired like a Quad as far as how 1,2, and 3 control the stove.  #2 is in line with the vac switch on other quads.  Just because he jumps the vac switch doesn't guarantee continuity IF snap disk #2 is open.  The manual for his stove is pretty crude and doesn't delve very deeply into electrical troubleshooting.


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 11, 2014)

tjnamtiw said:


> I don't want to get in a pissing contest with you while we are trying to help this guy.  He has NO schematic to work with since his manual has none.  I have given him a link to get it but he hasn't done that yet.  We know he has 3 snap disks and we are assuming since it is a Quad that it's wired like a Quad as far as how 1,2, and 3 control the stove.  #2 is in line with the vac switch on other quads.  Just because he jumps the vac switch doesn't guarantee continuity IF snap disk #2 is open.  The manual for his stove is pretty crude and doesn't delve very deeply into electrical troubleshooting.



So why start the pissing contest with your comments ?


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 11, 2014)

BECAUSE we have had so many posts this year from people needing help for a specific brand of stove.  We try to help them through a series of troubleshooting steps but, invariably, a half a dozen other people jump in and offer advice that doesn't relate to the stove in question.  I see where you are coming from but you didn't obviously know about the snap disc and could have led him down the wrong path without first checking the snap disk.

ENOUGH!  Back to helping him, PLEASE,


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

Tj I got the technical Manuel right after you posted it. Been using it every since, I posted a big thank you for it because it has a wealth of information. But even using it I'm having issues . Yes that white wire did arch against auger motor and stopped feed 2 winters ago. I pulled it up n it stopped, but with time n vibration from fans it may have ached more often. Will check ohms on #2 now, be right back


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 11, 2014)

Since I ASSUME the white wire follows convention and is the neutral, if it isn't making good contact, the circuit wouldn't be complete and the motor wouldn't run, even if you measure voltage as good to ground at each point on the way to the motor.


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 11, 2014)

So, if he bypasses snap disc #2, the igniter and the auger should work ?

And if it does not, where does he go from there ?


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 11, 2014)

CladMaster said:


> So, if he bypasses snap disc #2, the igniter and the auger should work ?
> 
> And if it does not, where does he go from there ?


The auger should work but the igniter is not in the same circuit at all.  That's assuming that the white wire is making contact in the motor.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 11, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> Tj I got the technical Manuel right after you posted it. Been using it every since, I posted a big thank you for it because it has a wealth of information. But even using it I'm having issues . Yes that white wire did arch against auger motor and stopped feed 2 winters ago. I pulled it up n it stopped, but with time n vibration from fans it may have ached more often. Will check ohms on #2 now, be right back


I thought you were excited about the schematic of the auger motor!   ha ha ha.
Is there any way that you can post that schematic or emailing it to Kap and I?  It would sure help at our end to help you.


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 11, 2014)

OK, so if he gets the auger to work correctly, he can use the stove, but will have to start it manually.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 11, 2014)

CladMaster said:


> OK, so if he gets the auger to work correctly, he can use the stove, but will have to start it manually.


yep, as long as the #1 snap disk works to start the fans.  AND he doesn't have to jump the vacuum switch.  That would be unsafe for continuous use.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

Ok if I did it right, couldn't find my friend who meter this is to see which ohm setting to use. I got 0000, next checked continuity and had continuity thru switch. I'm guessing that means the switch is open and should be closed?


----------



## Harvey Schneider (Dec 11, 2014)

I'm watching with morbid curiosity. It isn't even clear what problem the op is trying to solve. It started as an igniter issue, became a blower problem, no the blower is working, and now.... The auger isn't running?
If I damaged the igniter wiring I wouldn't expect that the vac switch or snap disks spontaneously and simultaneously failed. It is far more likely that a wire has been dislodged somewhere for all the poking around in the box.


----------



## Harvey Schneider (Dec 11, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> Ok if I did it right, couldn't find my friend who meter this is to see which ohm setting to use. I got 0000, next checked continuity and had continuity thru switch. I'm guessing that means the switch is open and should be closed?


Wrong, zero ohms means the switch is closed.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

Harvey that has been in my mind since I put it back together but near as I can tell from manuel all us right and I've checked and triple checked. One thing that bothers me I'm suspicious of is the reset button, it has 3 blades on it but only has 2 wires connected to it. My question is should it matter which way it's hooked up? It's a switch so I'm assuming it doesn't matter, unless one is used for something else in another model or it's a dummy. The initial problem was a short in igniter wires that blew 2 fuses and smoked and exploded 2 damaging fuse holder. Wires repaired fuse and fuse holder repair along with blown call light replaced. Also replaced thermocouple wire as it had a break in it. After all this I got exhaust fan and call light, no feed or ignition.


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 11, 2014)

Then the stove should work as long as all the wires are connected and there are no open circuits (disconnected wire / wire not making contact / broken wire).


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

0000 means closed. If using the continuity test what reading should I get.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

Broken wire or I just swapped a wire in junction box has been my thinking but I found a wiring diagram in the quadrafire 1000 manual that someone told me about and according to it I'm right with exception of the reset button. I'm gonna swap wires n see if it changes things.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

The black wire coming from vac switch to anger is hot if jumped or vac switch is working?


----------



## Harvey Schneider (Dec 11, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> Broken wire or I just swapped a wire in junction box has been my thinking but I found a wiring diagram in the quadrafire 1000 manual that someone told me about and according to it I'm right with exception of the reset button. I'm gonna swap wires n see if it changes things.


The switch may be one with both a normally open and a normally closed contact. One wire should be on the common and the other should be on the normally closed contact.


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 11, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> The black wire coming from vac switch to anger is hot if jumped or vac switch is working?



If it is following the standard wiring, the white wire should be neutral.

The black wire should be hot (supplies voltage).


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 11, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> Ok if I did it right, couldn't find my friend who meter this is to see which ohm setting to use. I got 0000, next checked continuity and had continuity thru switch. I'm guessing that means the switch is open and should be closed?



0000 means the switch is closed, which is good.  I don't know what you mean when you are saying you checked continuity after checking ohms.  If you are measuring voltage across the switch, it would be zero volts IF YOU HAVE A COMPLETE CIRCUIT but I'm not sure about that with the burned white neutral wire.  You are better off measuring voltage from the chassis to both sides of the snap disk, both sides of the vacuum switch and the input side of the auger motor ONE POINT AT A TIME AND WRITE THEM DOWN. Remember that after you plug in your stove, let the combustion blower run for ten minutes, then turn up your thermostat so the CALL FOR HEAT light comes on, and push the reset button.  You may have to push the reset button multiple times to get all your readings since the auger runs for only a short time with each reset push.  After your auger times out, you won't have voltage to any of those points. 

As Harvey said, it could very well be a loose wire.  In fact, I'd bet a neutral wire.


----------



## Harvey Schneider (Dec 11, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> The black wire coming from vac switch to anger is hot if jumped or vac switch is working?


The question makes no sense. Please restate.


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 11, 2014)

At this point it's also possible that the auger motor is not working.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 11, 2014)

Harvey Schneider said:


> Wrong, zero ohms means the switch is closed.


I was assuming whatever scale he was on was reading zero.  Open on my meter says OL and closed is 000.  For him to say 0000 to me means a closed circuit.  Good point if the reset button has a NC and NO contact. ANYTHING is possible at this point with wires being jumped and moved around!
Early on he said that the manual said snap disk #1 controlled the combustion motor so I sure would like to see his schematic before we start ASS U ME ING any more.

ADD>  check ohms across the two wired contacts of the reset button.  You should read 000 and then when you push the button it should go to OL or some very high ohms reading.


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 11, 2014)

So, it's either a bad wire connection, or a shot auger motor ..... or the vac switch.

If it has the old type vac switch ..........   visit the link below and read post #2 ..... 

http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?1214401-Quadra-Fire-1100-i-pellet-insert-feed-problem


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 11, 2014)

Since there is so much confusion about which snap disks control which functions, I really can't offer any more advice until I see a schematic of YOUR stove that was in the service manual you sent for.  As for your electrician 'friend', we aren't dealing with electronics, we're dealing with switches and motors and voltages to them.  If he IS an electrician and he can't understand or work with these things, then I'd love to know where he got his license!  Not to be mean but I think he's letting you down.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 11, 2014)

CladMaster said:


> So, it's either a bad wire connection, or a shot auger motor ..... or the vac switch.
> 
> If it has the old type vac switch ..........   visit the link below and read post #2 .....
> 
> http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?1214401-Quadra-Fire-1100-i-pellet-insert-feed-problem


OR as I said, the snap disk that's in line with those two items.  Heaven knows what number it is!  But he or his electrician buddy should be able to trace a single wire to find out where it is and which one it is!


----------



## Harvey Schneider (Dec 11, 2014)

Another thought.
Many of these Vac switches have two ports. If the hose is connected to the wrong port he will never find it inspecting the wires.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 11, 2014)

If you have continuity, it means the switch is closed and it needs to be so the current can run thru it. I don't know how much more we can help you without being there. You need to follow the blocks of stove sequence. Make sure stove is calling for heat, and then check where electricity starts and stops. There has been way too much jumping around so we don't really know what does and doesn't work to make the auger run. Exhaust fan runs. While stove is calling for heat, you need to see if you have power on wires going to vac switch, both sides. You need to see if you have power at snap disc #2.Remember when you first turn stove on, auger would have only ran for 60 or 98 seconds. Can't remember how long on this old stove. You would have to hit the reset button to keep going


Harvey Schneider said:


> I'm watching with morbid curiosity. It isn't even clear what problem the op is trying to solve. It started as an igniter issue, became a blower problem, no the blower is working, and now.... The auger isn't running?
> If I damaged the igniter wiring I wouldn't expect that the vac switch or snap disks spontaneously and simultaneously failed. It is far more likely that a wire has been dislodged somewhere for all the poking around in the box.


He shorted things out 3 times and enough to toast the fuse holder, from a loose strand of wire from the igniter. We are trying to make sure if he needs a new control box or not as they are not cheap and he is strapped for finances.


Harvey Schneider said:


> I'm watching with morbid curiosity. It isn't even clear what problem the op is trying to solve. It started as an igniter issue, became a blower problem, no the blower is working, and now.... The auger isn't running?
> If I damaged the igniter wiring I wouldn't expect that the vac switch or snap disks spontaneously and simultaneously failed. It is far more likely that a wire has been dislodged somewhere for all the poking around in the box.


He shorted out the stove 3 times from a loose strand of wire from the igniter. It even toasted the fuse holder. We are trying to see if he needs a new control box or not as they are pretty expensive and he is strapped for cash. kap


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

I miss identified the fan earlier calling it a combustion fan, it is the largest convection fans. But I believe I'm right in that the manual tj posted a link for, which is the technical Manuel, it says #1 snap disc controls it if I recall it correctly.
This reset button definitely has  specific wiring . I swapped wires and have nothing, I swapped again nothing. So I gotta do the omh test Harvey posted to get the proper position back

I'm sorry for confusion, I'm trying to answer everyone to be polite and I'm confusing you guys I think. Sorry. Its overwhelming the help I'm getting I'm so thankful, it is helping on this side. Even if it seems not.

Once I get reset button right and power back I'll test vac switch and go from there. Will post results. But I'm frustrated that I had power and may have been getting there and I'm further away now.

May try after dinner. 

If all else fails I'll fill it with tannerite and shoot it. I'll be sure to post that if I do, lol. I'm kidding if coarse. 

Thank you all. It may help if you look at the Manuel tj posted for me. As well as the quadrafire 1000 manual as it has the junction box schematics.

Be back later.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 11, 2014)

Thanks kap, disappointed right now needs a break Advil sure y'all do, lol. Gonna eat n have at it.But will hit vac switch next after I'm back where I was. Thanks to all!!


----------



## Harvey Schneider (Dec 11, 2014)

kappel15 said:


> Nothing like double posting. Jeeze


What's your problem?


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 11, 2014)

I double posted. lol


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 11, 2014)

Looks like I triple posted or something too. All mixed up after scrolling up.


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 11, 2014)

Vac switch ----- Snap disc #2 ----- capacitor ------ auger motor

What are the chances that the capacitor is shot ?   Would that stop the auger from working ?


----------



## Harvey Schneider (Dec 11, 2014)

CladMaster said:


> Would that stop the auger from working ?


Yes it would. The motor would be erratic with a failed capacitor. It might reverse directions or just sit and hum.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 11, 2014)

On the newer models, they will reverse


----------



## Harvey Schneider (Dec 11, 2014)

Harvey Schneider said:


> Another thought.
> Many of these Vac switches have two ports. If the hose is connected to the wrong port he will never find it inspecting the wires.


The thing that makes this significant is that the vac switch would be closed when the stove is off. I am not sure how the op checked the switch, but it was probably with power off. He did report zero ohms for one of the switches, I can't recall which. As soon as the combustion blower is running the vac switch would open inhibiting the auger motor.


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 11, 2014)

Not sure if this is the same stove, but based on what has been said here in this thread, maybe this will help some of us.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 11, 2014)

Harvey Schneider said:


> The thing that makes this significant is that the vac switch would be closed when the stove is off. I am not sure how the op checked the switch, but it was probably with power off. He did report zero ohms for one of the switches, I can't recall which. As soon as the combustion blower is running the vac switch would open inhibiting the auger motor.


He checked a snap disc  that had 0. The vac switch is suppose to be open with stove off, and closed when vacuum sucks switch closed. Reason to bypass switch is to try and get electricity all the way thru path to auger.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 12, 2014)

Ok men, got exhaust fan back but no call light. Think bulb blew, don't ask.lol.. anyway have power to red wire at vac switch, no auger.. jumped vac switch, no auger.... Will pick up new bulb in a.m... Will pick then for next step. None of the pics.of replacement augers are wired the same and have seen one picture of mine anywhere. Sure power is getting to auger with vac jumped so it should run correct?


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 12, 2014)

Also will check vac switch to see if it's working in a.m. to eliminate the jumper. Thanks


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 12, 2014)

Got exhaust back, and blew a bulb? You're going the wrong direction 93. We've been there, done that. Don't want to go back there. lol


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 12, 2014)

Yes, I know, this junction box is a lil smaller than a receptacle, as I'm sure you know. But till you've been inside one can can't hate it enough. If you have you know. They stuffed so much in there and the wires for the reset and light are all yellow and side by side. I the connectors won't snap on tight so one of the call lights fell of while switching around the reset wires with long meddle nose pliers. I think.I hooked the reset wire to the light, this wire has full line voltage and bulb runs on 28 volts. Anyway even with bulb out stove should operate, I do have power to vac switch. Or will the light itself stop a process? I know I asked you this before and I think it just helps in diagnostics?? 
So if I'm.following right, #2 snap disc should have power flowing thru it? If it doesn't it's blown? If so couldn't I unhook it to bypass it? 

Also Am I following you guys  right that the auger is bad since I bypassed vac switch and it still doesn't run?


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 12, 2014)

Light won't stop. It just helps to see if things are working. Power to vac switch is only part of it. Does it come out the other wire is the key? Yes, you can bypass #2 by jumping wires together. Not necessarily on auger bad. Only if there is power to it, and it isn't running. Control board can be bad and not supplying power to auger. tj is going to download a service manual you can follow. I'm heading to work, so will be no help. Sorry. But lots of other guys here to help you. Everyone play nice. And everything is small on these stoves to work on. I know. kap

And remember that testing only works when stove is calling for heat, and is in the initial feed mode. Othewise no power to auger.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 12, 2014)

This is the service manual for YOUR stove.  With it, an ELECTRICIAN should be able to put things back the way they should be before you started moving wires around.  Sadly, I STRONGLY SUGGEST that you put the pliers down and get an electrician to fix your stove.


----------



## Harvey Schneider (Dec 12, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> Having same issue on my 1100i , regular solder doesn't work what was your final fix? Or is it still working? $112.00 is what they want for mine around here. Also I'm curious how your stove acted with it broken just to compare my issues, some say that fixing the thermocouple wire won't fix my stove that I need a control box.





pelletstove93 said:


> Thanks,bought new one, started stove manually and after it got warm enough the green light came on then red. So that issue us resolved. Thanks again.



I came across this on another thread. Care to explain this?


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 12, 2014)

Harvey Schneider said:


> I came across this on another thread. Care to explain this?


I asked this guy how his broken thermocouple effected his pellet stove. Mine was broken but has been for 3 years but it still ran fine. If I could twist wires together or solder it then I wanted to rather than pay ,,$112.00 for one. I went ahead and invested in a new one to be certain. Saw your name so I gave short explanation on that post so as not to confuse someone who's has Been trying to help me. Also when I checked ohms I set it on the 200 setting, is that where u want it?


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 12, 2014)

kappel15 said:


> Light won't stop. It just helps to see if things are working. Power to vac switch is only part of it. Does it come out the other wire is the key? Yes, you can bypass #2 by jumping wires together. Not necessarily on auger bad. Only if there is power to it, and it isn't running. Control board can be bad and not supplying power to auger. tj is going to download a service manual you can follow. I'm heading to work, so will be no help. Sorry. But lots of other guys here to help you. Everyone play nice. And everything is small on these stoves to work on. I know. kap
> 
> And remember that testing only works when stove is calling for heat, and is in the initial feed mode. Othewise no power to auger.


Ok thanks, will check it on start up a few times to be sure.then post results.


----------



## Harvey Schneider (Dec 12, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> I asked this guy how his broken thermocouple effected his pellet stove. Mine was broken but has been for 3 years but it still ran fine. If I could twist wires together or solder it then I wanted to rather than pay ,,$112.00 for one. I went ahead and invested in a new one to be certain. Saw your name so I gave short explanation on that post so as not to confuse someone who's has Been trying to help me. Also when I checked ohms I set it on the 200 setting, is that where u want it?


You said that you were able to manually start the stove. Does that mean that your stove is working? If not, exactly what problem are you still experiencing?


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 12, 2014)

Every


tjnamtiw said:


> This is the service manual for YOUR stove.  With it, an ELECTRICIAN should be able to put things back the way they should be before you started moving wires around.  Sadly, I STRONGLY SUGGEST that you put the pliers down and get an electrician to fix your stove.


Hong is wired properly, only question about wiring is the reset button has 3 prongs on it but only 2 wires, so up questioned if I had the proper 2 or if it mattered as it's just a switch but it doesn't matter. I've wired entire homes from start to finish so electric work isn't the problem, it's understanding the circuit path for me, most is clear but if I knew what the board does exactly and doesn't do I wouldn't be hunting so much. Been repairing PlayStation consoles for 15 years as well as old vcr's washers dryers, so I'm capable but this is my 1st attempt at a pellet stove and have been jumping all over it due to all the advice. Its all good advice I just need to stay on one path till it's done and Move to next step. My electrical friend stopped by last night and didn't know how to check ohms so he's no help said he doesn't understand any of this. Just because a wire fell off or I swapped 1 wire doesn't mean I'm not capable, who hasn't made mistakes? Thanks for advice and Manuals. Again what I'm trying to do here is make sure I have fixed all issues before buying a control box ( if I need one ) so that I don't plug it in and fry it as well. At this point I have everything working but the igniter and auger. I'm working on auger now once it's deemed good or bad and Ill replace it if so at some point,  I'll move to igniter, then,  if nothing and all is checked out to be good, a control box. Dealer has pressed me to buy a control box from get go. But if installed without repairing the cause of failure I would be out $360.00 no other service men in area, only ones that are here ant get here till beginning of 3rd week of January, this is wherever I'm at. I'm disabled, blind in left eye and poor vision in right with very limited money and didn't want to spend my kids Christmas money on parts carelessly. Thanks again.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 12, 2014)

Harvey Schneider said:


> You said that you were able to manually start the stove. Does that mean that your stove is working? If not, exactly what problem are you still experiencing?


I started it with some of that gel, it only ran for the ten minutes it usually does or is supposed to without it feeding I guess. While little the green led came on then the red led after it went out the red went out and eventually the green did. Convection fans didn't come on because it only ran 10 minutes and needs to run like 15 minutes I think is what Kappel 15 said. I have exhaust fan, but not feeding pellets and no igniter. Thanks


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 12, 2014)

Harvey, I asked him to answer some questions .... see below.



CladMaster said:


> From the manual ....
> 
> Now, lets see ....
> 
> ...



He came back with ....



pelletstove93 said:


> Yes to a, b and no to d.



He started the fire manually with some fuel in the burn pot.

The stove would not feed fuel, auger is not turning on.

Stove did not run hot enough to turn on the room blowers either due to the lack of fuel and heat.

At this point we was close to getting the stove to work, but it all went sideways, why I have no idea.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 12, 2014)

also how could your stove work for 3 years without a thermocouple when it is an integral part of the running logic?  You said that the stove 'ran fine' for three years....


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 12, 2014)

OK, now that I have read that crude service manual a few times, there are only 4 possible problems for the auger motor not to work.

1/ Faulty Vac switch
2/ Bad neutral connection
3/ Auger motor is shot
4/ Control board is shot


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 12, 2014)

CladMaster said:


> OK, now that I have read that crude service manual a few times, there are only 4 possible problems for the auger motor not to work.
> 
> 1/ Faulty Vac switch
> 2/ Bad neutral connection
> ...


You forgot bad/improperly wired reset button and bad snap disk #2.  These are in the circuit as well but not directly.  They input into the control board and tell the auger motor drive circuit to start over.  If not properly wired or if faulty, the auger will never be told to start.


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 12, 2014)

tjnamtiw said:


> You forgot bad/improperly wired reset button and bad snap disk #2.  These are in the circuit as well but not directly.  They input into the control board and tell the auger motor drive circuit to start over.  If not properly wired or if faulty, the auger will never be told to start.



OK, I see that now.

I see that there could be another possible problem too, the thermostat and it's wiring if I am reading it right.
But if there is a call for heat via the red light on the stove, this would point to the thermostat being OK, or am I missing something else ?


----------



## Harvey Schneider (Dec 12, 2014)

CladMaster said:


> OK, I see that now.
> 
> I see that there could be another possible problem too, the thermostat and it's wiring if I am reading it right.
> But if there is a call for heat via the red light on the stove, this would point to the thermostat being OK, or am I missing something else ?


A bad run cap on the auger motor would keep it from feeding pellets even if he measures Voltage there.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 12, 2014)

Harvey Schneider said:


> A bad run cap on the auger motor would keep it from feeding pellets even if he measures Voltage there.


Except the manual does not mention a cap on the auger motor in the explanation for removal.  It only mentions/shows a cap for the combustion motor and ONE for BOTH convection blowers (curious).  I figured there would be another one on the other side for the second blower but one cap must start them both.


----------



## Harvey Schneider (Dec 12, 2014)

tjnamtiw said:


> Except the manual does not mention a cap on the auger motor in the explanation for removal.  It only mentions/shows a cap for the combustion motor and ONE for BOTH convection blowers (curious).  I figured there would be another one on the other side for the second blower but one cap must start them both.


Those are run capacitors not start capacitors. They shift the ac phase to the second winding and are continuously connected. That creates a rotating magnetic field.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Dec 12, 2014)

Harvey Schneider said:


> Those are run capacitors not start capacitors. They shift the ac phase to the second winding and are continuously connected. That creates a rotating magnetic field.


Yea, you're right, of course.  Start caps would need a set of contacts to open up after it started - right?


----------



## Harvey Schneider (Dec 12, 2014)

tjnamtiw said:


> Yea, you're right, of course.  Start caps would need a set of contacts to open up after it started - right?


Right.


----------



## bflat (Dec 12, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> Have bypassed #3 same results, this model has no switch in lid I can find and am told it doesn't, no inline fuse on igniter, only fuse left is .5 amp on circuit board in control box, it is also good. I decided to start fire manually just hoping it might ride off once saddled up. No go, but the green led and the red led are on now that are on top of control box. Convection fans didn't come on once hot either, maybe it didn't get hot enough to run them, idk



Did the lights go on in succession at the proper times after you lit the fire?
Or did they go on at the same time as soon as you turned on the stove?

The manual that Tj listed says that the thermocouple wires have to be connected specifically in the junction box.
Yellow-positive to top center terminal, and Red-negative to lower center terminal.

Is it possible they got reversed?
I am not sure if that would cause a false voltage to be sent to the controller, preventing the igniter from going or not.
I would definitely verify again that all your connections are correct in the junction box after you were working in there.

As suggested earlier, did you check continuity for the igniter all the way to the controller and not just the harness?

Did you figure out where those wires by the auger come from.
Maybe someone replaced the auger motor using  a new pigtail and those are just old ones, but you still need to check whats connected to them.
To test for voltage to the auger motor I would just back probe the feed wire at the motor with your voltmeter and the other lead connected to chassis ground.
Turn on the stove and see if you get voltage for a minute or two and then if it goes off, this will verify the controller is sending voltage for the initial feed for start up.

Verify if the motor is running or not to make sure it's not just stripped gears or a loose locking collar.


----------



## Harvey Schneider (Dec 12, 2014)

bflat said:


> Did the lights go on in succession at the proper times after you lit the fire?
> Or did they go on at the same time as soon as you turned on the stove?
> 
> The manual that Tj listed says that the thermocouple wires have to be connected specifically in the junction box.
> ...



Yes, the thermocouple is polarized and attaching it backwards will not work. Putting it in backwards would cause a negative Voltage while the control board is looking to measure a positive Voltage.
One other thing to look for. Visual confirmation that the auger motor is not running backwards or dithering.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 12, 2014)

Ok auger works when line voltage applied directly. So all fans are good, auger and thermocouple is all good, I know snap disc #1 and #3 have power to them.. #1  I'm still unsure about igniter, will apply direct voltage to it to see if it glows. An vac guy recommended this just to rule out they were bad, so all that's would be left is wiring harness ( or bad wires anywhere ) , control board,  vac switch n snap discs... 

Since my friend doesn't know how to run an ohm test I'll need to know to be sure as I have said testing electrical components isn't strong point but I can follow clear instructions. Like which setting? 200?  And do you test ohms under power or unplugged like a continuity test ? This will check snap discs one of you guys said..

Also does power come straight to auger on start up or after so many seconds? I know it only runs for 30 to 98 secs when it does run per Kappel and manual.

 Thanks


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 12, 2014)

Ok auger works when line voltage applied directly. So all fans are good, auger and thermocouple is all good, I know snap disc #1 and #3 have power to them.. #1  I'm still unsure about igniter, will apply direct voltage to it to see if it glows. An vac guy recommended this just to rule out they were bad, so all that's would be left is wiring harness ( or bad wires anywhere ) , control board,  vac switch n snap discs... 

Since my friend doesn't know how to run an ohm test I'll need to know to be sure as I have said testing electrical components isn't strong point but I can follow clear instructions. Like which setting? 200?  And do you test ohms under power or unplugged like a continuity test ? This will check snap discs one of you guys said..

Also does power come straight to auger on start up or after so many seconds? I know it only runs for 30 to 98 secs when it does run per Kappel and manual.

 Thanks


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 12, 2014)

Auger works under d


bflat said:


> Did the lights go on in succession at the proper times after you lit the fire?
> Or did they go on at the same time as soon as you turned on the stove?
> 
> The manual that Tj listed says that the thermocouple wires have to be connected specifically in the junction box.
> ...


 auger works under direct line power from wall.

Lights came on in order, not at sametime ..

Wives are correct on thermocouple, I double checked it as well because I second guessed myself.

I did check continuity all the way from junction box.. 

 Am gonna check auger power again in bit, have to take son to a young marine banquet. But will post results. 

 Thank you.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 12, 2014)

Harvey Schneider said:


> Yes, the thermocouple is polarized and attaching it backwards will not work. Putting it in backwards would cause a negative Voltage while the control board is looking to measure a positive Voltage.
> One other thing to look for. Visual confirmation that the auger motor is not running backwards or dithering.


Checked for motor running backwards after I saw a post on that it does nothing. Wires on thermocouple are correct.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 12, 2014)

Don't know


tjnamtiw said:


> also how could your stove work for 3 years without a thermocouple when it is an integral part of the running logic?  You said that the stove 'ran fine' for three years....


 Why   the dealer said same thing. The wires was broken about an inch below the twist on end, I butted them tighter shoved the cover on and it has worked... Luck I guess. I found it that way soon I put it back together that way.. I've replaced it so it's not longer an issue as whole lot the green and red leds came on indicating signal from thermocouple.. 

Thanks


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 12, 2014)

tjnamtiw said:


> Except the manual does not mention a cap on the auger motor in the explanation for removal.  It only mentions/shows a cap for the combustion motor and ONE for BOTH convection blowers (curious).  I figured there would be another one on the other side for the second blower but one cap must start them both.


That's right, no cap for auger only 2 caps, one for exhaust fan and one for both convection fans.


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 12, 2014)

The vac switch ..... is the tube connected to it and to the port in the stove ?

Can you take a picture of the vac switch and post it here so that we can see the connectors. Need to find out what version of vac switch you have, there are two versions for this stove.


----------



## gfreek (Dec 12, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> And do you test ohms under power or unplugged like a continuity test


Test ohms Unplugged..like continuity test


----------



## bflat (Dec 12, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> Auger works under d
> auger works under direct line power from wall.
> 
> Lights came on in order, not at sametime ..
> ...



Did you use your voltmeter and probe the feed wire right at the auger motor with the ground lead connected to the chassis right after turning on the stove to see if you had voltage?

When you say you tested the motor direct to house current, do you mean that both motor wires were disconnected from the stove  and plugged into a cord separately ?

I'm not sure what I missed on previous posts, but you did say you had power at the Vac switch.

Do you have power beyond that point when the convection blower is running,  and  all the way to the auger during the  fill cycle?
If so, disconnect the motor and also the stove from power and trace the neutral from the motor back thru the harness to find everywhere it goes and check for continuity between those ends.

Do you have an accurate wiring schematic for this stove.

Maybe someone else here would know, is the neutral for the auger motor connected to the control box only on this stove or does it connect to the main neutral return?

Is it possible to back probe the connectors for the auger and igniter feeds right at the control box  with your voltmeter and check for voltage during start up?
It makes sense to me to test at the source and bypass everything else if you can.

With the stove unplugged, I would again check the control box plug for tight connections, on each and every wire just to be sure.
Also verify each wire has continuity thru to the connector with your meter while wiggling the wires . I have seen where the wire has fried away from the contact, but still held on around the insulation.


----------



## Harvey Schneider (Dec 12, 2014)

bflat said:


> Did you use your voltmeter and probe the feed wire right at the auger motor with the ground lead connected to the chassis right after turning on the stove to see if you had voltage?
> 
> When you say you tested the motor direct to house current, do you mean that both motor wires were disconnected from the stove  and plugged into a cord separately ?
> 
> ...


You are assuming a level of competence that may be disappointed.


----------



## bflat (Dec 12, 2014)

pelletstove93 said:


> Ok, got power now, replaced fuse holder it was bad. But igniter, auger isn't working. Going to buy a new thermostat in bit this one was troubling anyway, but have bypass it for now. Not blowing fuses now, so closer. But where do I got from here


When you say you bypassed the thermostat, does the connection your making stay in contact the whole time when starting the stove for sure?
If you make a quick on/off connection with the thermostat at start up, only the exhaust blower will run for 10-15 min and then shut off.

I know this sounds simple but I'm going to ask anyway.
Are you unplugging the stove between tests, and then plugging it in each time and testing right away to see if the auger is feeding?

Do you have the thermostat terminals connected in any way when you are plugging it in?

I don't know for sure on your stove, but my quad, when first plugging it in goes thru a 10 to 15 min purge cycle by running (Only) the exhaust blower, no auger or igniter and then stops.
It is then ready to turn on with the thermostat.

I also don't know what the stove would do if I already had the thermostat calling for heat while plugging it in, as I have never done it.

With the thermostat off, and when you first plug it in, does the exhaust blower run for awhile and then shut off.


----------



## Bkins (Dec 13, 2014)

I'm going to make a suggestion bflat.  The poster is easily confused and is being helped by two very good stove people, Kap, and Tj.  It would be helpful not to have someone new jump in on page 9 and after more then 200 posts to try to help.  It doesn't sound as though you have read the thread from the beginning.  It may answer some of your questions.

Lots of people are watching this and have stayed out of the conversation just as to not confuse 93 any more.

I certainly didn't mean to slight Harvey.  He hasn't jumped in as often but when he has what he has said was important and to the point on this stove.

There are a lot of very, very good forum members here willing to help anyone willing to help themselves.  If their suggestions are followed, step by step, you will get the stove back up and running.  Way to go people.


----------



## rafmt (Dec 13, 2014)

I must give some praise to Kap and TJ. Your help so far on this thread has been very generous. Frustrating at times....but a learning experience to myself and many other that are watching this. I am hopeful this stove can get fixed. The journey has been interesting to watch.


----------



## gfreek (Dec 13, 2014)

rafmt said:


> many other that are watching this. I am hopeful this stove can get fixed. The journey has been interesting to watch.



I agree...Quiet today though


----------



## bflat (Dec 13, 2014)

Bkins said:


> I'm going to make a suggestion bflat.  The poster is easily confused and is being helped by two very good stove people, Kap, and Tj.  It would be helpful not to have someone new jump in on page 9 and after more then 200 posts to try to help.  It doesn't sound as though you have read the thread from the beginning.  It may answer some of your questions.
> 
> Lots of people are watching this and have stayed out of the conversation just as to not confuse 93 any more.


Point taken,  I hope I didn't offend anyone. 
I did read all the posts though, and I just thought I could offer some help.
Your right, 93 doesn't need to be confused further than he already is.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 13, 2014)

Harvey Schneider has contributed a great deal to help this problem also. kap


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 15, 2014)

CladMaster said:


> The vac switch ..... is the tube connected to it and to the port in the stove ?
> 
> Can you take a picture of the vac switch and post it here so that we can see the connectors. Need to find out what version of vac switch you have, there are two versions for this stove.


I have the two wire version that is not adjustable.  Yes its connected at both ends.


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 15, 2014)

I want to thank everyone for the advice. I didn't expect such a tremendous amount of information. When stumped I usually watch a YouTube video or read a post on the topic I'm having issues with and fix my problem. Can't find a YouTube videos or post specific to my issues so I turned to this site. I am glad I did! I've leaned a lot not just about this stove but about wiring in general, it may not seem like it to some!! I will post later today watch step I'm proceeding with. I'm think I have some connectors that are not making good connections since I can get 2 readings in some by probing down the middle making direct contact with wire with good voltage as opposed to probing the connector it's self and getting anywhere from 0 to 6 volts. Have an hvac friend that I called who in turn gave me his electrical guy who happens to be a guy I went to school with and grew up just a few blocks from one another. I hope he can come by and verify this final things so I can get what I need. The terminal on the vac switch ( red wire terminal ) is black by the way. No others are.If vac switch is ok as well as snap discs and harness seems fine I will get the control box. And cross my fingers.


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 15, 2014)

Keep us posted. Good luck. kap


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 15, 2014)

Thought I had found a broken wire in wiring harness but after studying the wiring diagram it shows the wires in question a blue wire, connects with one of the igniter wires in the female connector. So it shows continuity on the igniter wire and not in the blue wire I was checking. So I believe it's down to the control box. I tested it and have stand by voltage but it doesn't increase when it should. Looks like a control box is next.Thanks


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 18, 2014)

Ordering a control box, will update after receiving it. Thanks all


----------



## pelletstove93 (Dec 31, 2014)

Ok guys it's fixed!   It was a simple fix after all just had to find it. Reset switch has 3 prongs on it but only has 2 wires connected to it. One blade was a dummy ( 2 including me ). I had one wire wrong. I had asked about that earlier on and Harvey had told me how to test it but in all the commotion I didn't follow thru with his advice. And bit did it cost me!! A new control box I didn't not need. Why they have a 3rd dummy blade I don't know but I'll never forget that it does and now all if you know just in case. Thank you all so much and hope you all had a great Christmas and have a great new year!

For sale: 1 new control box cheap, lol. Seriously


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 31, 2014)

Glad you are up and running after this long ordeal. This is why it can be so frustrating trying to fix a stove over the internet. You don't know what has been fixed or not, right or wrong, without being there. At least you know your stove a lot better then you did, and you can stay warm. I hope you get the control box sold if you don't want to keep it for a spare. kap


----------



## DMKNLD (Dec 31, 2014)

9 10 pages, 225 posts, and 2500 + page views later, that was certainly an odyssey to follow along on gentleman !   Kudos to pelletstove93 for sticking with it, and to kap, tj, Harvey, cladmaster, et al for helping him 'land the airplane' via internet cyber space !

Happy New Year everybody. And be careful if you are out and about ringing in the New Year !


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 31, 2014)

Oh my, and after all that, it was the vac switch -- and this is what I was lead to via all the tests done / posted here with all the results.

Glad your stove is up and running, stay warm..... and just in time too with the cold snap that's here now.

Happy New Year


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 31, 2014)

CladMaster said:


> Oh my, and after all that, it was the vac switch -- and this is what I was lead to via all the tests done / posted here with all the results.
> 
> Glad your stove is up and running, stay warm..... and just in time too with the cold snap that's here now.
> 
> Happy New Year


reset switch


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 31, 2014)

Happy New Year guys!


----------



## CladMaster (Dec 31, 2014)

kappel15 said:


> reset switch


  Miss read !


----------



## utbiochemist (Dec 5, 2017)

kappel15 said:


> You don't want thermo wires connected to anything as you can't get a good reading. Just need to see if power is going past light. Light only comes on when tstat calls for heat. Need to know if it is getting power to turn stove on. Don't want you buying a control box if you don't need one, but am betting you do.  We need to follow power route.Make sure outlet is working,  check for power at the black wire from the power cord. If there, check for power at the grey wire on the 7 amp fuse holder. If power is there check for power at he grey wires on snap disc #3. If power is there, time to replace control box.


how do you check for power? How do you use a multimeter box to do that?


----------



## kappel15 (Dec 5, 2017)

Easiest way is to use a power tester that blinks and makes noise if power is present in a wire. kap


----------

