# Protect or Fix that Flimsy Fire Brick Lining in your Wood Pellet Stove!!



## Don2222 (Jan 23, 2012)

Hello

Wish I knew of this before it broke, but yes we know how delicate that firebrick is and the weak part over the flame cutout!!

Oh Well, At least I can salvage it by using an inexpensive 12"x18" piece of # 22 guage sheet metal from Home Depot for $7.98!!
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Just put it under the firebrick and trace it oout with a felt tip marker.

then either using metal cutting sheers or a nice jig saw with fine metal cutting blade and cut out the pattern. It is fine if it is a little less than the size of the firebrick and then it will not bee seen.

Then use High Temp RTV on the back of the brick, on the top of the sheet metal and on both sides of any break or tear in the firebrick.

Squeeze everything together and let dry. You can also get some bolts and washers to secure the corners if you want that nice mechanical connection, but note on the Pelpro any corner screws will not hit the back plane of the stove but check on your stove to make sure it does fit correctly. put something heavy on it to dry!

Good luck

See pics below
Click to enlarge


----------



## krooser (Jan 23, 2012)

I scrapped mine years ago...


----------



## Brewer (Jan 23, 2012)

Hey don,
Oddly enough, I did basically the same thing today on a ussc 6041.
I tried the high temp silicone a few weeks ago, didn't last.
Today I went with stove cement.........we'll see what happens.
Good luck!
Also bought some refractory cement mix to mold a couple new ones.......about 27-28 bucks at menards for a little tub of it....should make about 3, i'm guessing


----------



## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 23, 2012)

True gasket cement should work also as a glue.   You have to be careful of temp ratings that close to the fire.


----------



## Brewer (Jan 23, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

> True gasket cement should work also as a glue.   You have to be careful of temp ratings that close to the fire.


Smokey,
As always you are correct.
I used " melco's red devil gasketing cement and stove sealer" ......withstands temps to 2000 degrees f.
Also, the little tub of refractory cement wasn't so little, 25 lbs., so maybe i'll get a few more molds out of it..lol
Anyway, we'll see how the fix holds up upon next cleaning.
Nice pics, don.


----------



## xraycer (Jan 23, 2012)

Is that "brick" layer even necessary? I'm think about taking it out just for quicker maintenance........unless we have guests over.


----------



## Don2222 (Jan 23, 2012)

Brewer said:
			
		

> Hey don,
> Oddly enough, I did basically the same thing today on a ussc 6041.
> I tried the high temp silicone a few weeks ago, didn't last.
> Today I went with stove cement.........we'll see what happens.
> ...



Thanks Brewer

Guess I will be looking for some nuts and bolts then for that good physical connection!

Do you have some pics?? Like to see what you are doing too!!


----------



## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 24, 2012)

xraycer said:
			
		

> Is that "brick" layer even necessary? I'm think about taking it out just for quicker maintenance........unless we have guests over.



Depends upon the stove.


----------



## stellep (Jan 24, 2012)

Oh man, you broke it.  Bummer.  I've come close many a time.  Hope the repair works out.  I'll probably need it one day.
BTW:  From what I've read, in my stove it must be in place.


----------



## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 24, 2012)

Brewer said:
			
		

> SmokeyTheBear said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



25 lbs of nice and nasty retort and furnace repair gunk, that stuff can cause trouble on your skin be certain to read the cautions and warnings.

Snowy says it does a good patch job provided you build things up a bit at a time.


----------



## Don2222 (Jan 24, 2012)

xraycer said:
			
		

> Is that "brick" layer even necessary? I'm think about taking it out just for quicker maintenance........unless we have guests over.



Hello xraycer

In the diagram for the Pelpro Bay View air circulates behind the fireBrick. I am using the stove with the firebrick out while I am repairing the firebrick. So the stove works fine, it may make some difference so I will check when I put it back in.

See diagram below and click to enlarge.


----------



## Don2222 (Jan 24, 2012)

stellep said:
			
		

> Oh man, you broke it.  Bummer.  I've come close many a time.  Hope the repair works out.  I'll probably need it one day.
> BTW:  From what I've read, in my stove it must be in place.




Yes stellep, I had it out so it would not get dirty and then something fell into it and snap!! :-( I was upset, but I will get some nuts and bolts and bolt it to the new metal back plane. So with it glued and bolted it should be fine. Maybe you should do it to before it is too late??

So I am learning and this should work well. Thanks


----------



## PA_Clinker (Jan 24, 2012)

xraycer said:
			
		

> Is that "brick" layer even necessary? I'm think about taking it out just for quicker maintenance........unless we have guests over.



In that diagram (post #10), it looks to me as though the firebrick & resulting air space provides insulation to minimize the chance of a hopper fire.


----------



## Don2222 (Jan 24, 2012)

PA_Clinker said:
			
		

> xraycer said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



There is a metal panel bolted to the back of the stove's fire box behind the firebrick. Behind the metal panel is the ash traps to clean out the air passages!


----------



## PA_Clinker (Jan 24, 2012)

Yeah, but I think the bare metal will tend to absorb heat whereas the refractory panel will tend to reflect the heat back into the firebox.


----------



## Brewer (Jan 24, 2012)

In my 6039 and 6041 , which are basically identical, I believe the firebrick/board is to prevent the rear panel of the firebox from overheating/distortion. 
Just my .02


----------



## Don2222 (Jan 24, 2012)

Hello

Well I went to the hardware store and picked up 1/4 " full thread 1" long carriage bolts with flat washers, lock washers and nuts.

So this firebrick bolted and RTVed to the # 22 Guage Steel backplane will not be falling apart very soon!!

See pics below!


----------



## Brewer (Jan 25, 2012)

well don.......the gasket cement worked great...............til i had to take the brick out, then not so much.....
so i bolted mine together also, lol.....only i had to use alot smaller size bolt/screw....clearance issue
attached are the pics you requested.........
i know, i know.............no pics, never happened


----------



## Don2222 (Jan 25, 2012)

Brewer said:
			
		

> well don.......the gasket cement worked great...............til i had to take the brick out, then not so much.....
> so i bolted mine together also, lol.....only i had to use alot smaller size bolt/screw....clearance issue
> attached are the pics you requested.........
> i know, i know.............no pics, never happened



Oh, Very good. Nice pics.

Yes, It just seems the bolts are really needed for that hard physical connection.

You should be all set now.


----------



## zrtmatos (Nov 27, 2012)

Thanks guys, this should solve my problem. I will post my before and after pics to share the knowledge.


----------



## Don2222 (Nov 27, 2012)

zrtmatos said:


> Thanks guys, this should solve my problem. I will post my before and after pics to share the knowledge.


 
You are welcome but since it is so fragil, I recommend just putting it in during the summer and non use times. If the metal gets too hot it can warp things so be careful!


----------



## zrtmatos (Nov 27, 2012)

I don't understand what you mean when you say putting it in the summer and non-use times?


----------



## Don2222 (Nov 27, 2012)

zrtmatos said:


> I don't understand what you mean when you say putting it in the summer and non-use times?


 
Because it is so fragile and will get dirty and cannot be cleaned very well, some members here remove it when burning and then put it back for the summer. It stays looking good that way.


----------



## zrtmatos (Nov 28, 2012)

Ok, I understand now but, doesn't that defeat the purpose of the reason why the firebrick is there? I would think it has to be in place to keep the stove components insulated from the high temperatures in the firebox. I am planning on placing a layer of 22 gauge steel behind it after affixing it to the firebrick and repairing the cracked pieces with the furnace cement. If that fails I will break down and purchase the replacement from Lopi.


----------



## Don2222 (Nov 28, 2012)

zrtmatos said:


> Ok, I understand now but, doesn't that defeat the purpose of the reason why the firebrick is there? I would think it has to be in place to keep the stove components insulated from the high temperatures in the firebox. I am planning on placing a layer of 22 gauge steel behind it after affixing it to the firebrick and repairing the cracked pieces with the furnace cement. If that fails I will break down and purchase the replacement from Lopi.


 
The firebox does not need the insulation, it is there for looks. The ones that work best with a fire are the cast iron fire brick in the Lopi Pioneer bay or Avalon Astoria


----------



## zrtmatos (Nov 28, 2012)

Don2222 said:


> The firebox does not need the insulation, it is there for looks. The ones that work best with a fire are the cast iron fire brick in the Lopi Pioneer bay or Avalon Astoria


 
I was not aware that it was there for looks only, thought it was actually insulating the firebox. I asked the dealer service department and they recommended getting it replaced. Said that the heat could damage the stove. Hmm? Unfortunately this would have been covered under the warranty from the original owner, but not now since I purchased it. Doesn't transfer.
Thanks for that info Don2222.


----------



## zrtmatos (Dec 10, 2012)

I ended up using furnace cement on the joints that had cracked and laying the pieces on a piece of flat sheet metal I bought at the big orange box. It all held together and after a hour's bonding time I have it placed in the stove burning so as to cure; recommended by the furnace cement manufacturer. I will let you know if it held after the next thorough cleaning.​


----------



## Shaw520 (Dec 10, 2012)

PA_Clinker said:


> it looks to me as though the firebrick & resulting air space provides insulation to minimize the chance of a hopper fire.


 I would have to agree,.. not only protecting the internal components of the stove,.. but reflecting the heat back into the firebox where its supposed to be.


----------



## LegoDoug (Feb 16, 2015)

Just performed the same repair to my PelPro's fire brick, which fractured into multiple pieces during the middle of several weeks of -18C temperatures. Thank you to all who posted ...

I didn't bother with cement, just pieced it back together onto #22 steel and bolted it in eight places, with #8 bolts, washers, lock washers, and nuts. I was in a hurry, because the temperature was plummeting inside, so it wasn't remotely beautiful, but it is functional. (After the winter, I can remanufacture a better backing plate at my leisure.)

One thing I did to improve the repair in my case was cut a fold-down on the top of the steel, which would hang the entire assembly onto the "shelf" near the top of the stainless steel brick holder. I bought the PelPro used, and someone had welded on a brick holder that didn't hold the brick very well. Essentially, I cut the steel into an H shape, with a 1/2" fold along the bottom cut-in facing outward to help secure the brick, and another 1/2" fold facing backward to hang the entire assembly.

I know some have advised the fire brick isn't needed; I'm a little dubious about that: The steel plate on my older stove (England Stove Works) eventually warped under the heat. For the few dollars I spent, I'd rather be safe than sorry.

At any rate, my family and home are warm, thanks specifically to Don2222's instructions, as well as the advice from others.

I am grateful. Thank you!

--Doug Wilcox




(Very messy. Sorry, Dad.)



Don2222 said:


> Hello
> 
> Wish I knew of this before it broke, but yes we know how delicate that firebrick is and the weak part over the flame cutout!!
> 
> ...


----------



## LordmetalZ28 (Feb 17, 2015)

Now lets talk about painting it or somehow bringing back its orginal color


----------



## LordmetalZ28 (Feb 17, 2015)

Original


----------



## SidecarFlip (Feb 17, 2015)

Wow, 2 pages of repairing the refractory backer when you could 1:  Buy an expensive replacement or 2:  Get 2 tubs or bags of Rutland Refractory cement compound from Amazon or your local hardware, build a form from wood the size and shape of the old backer, lay in some hardware cloth and pour your own for about 1/3 the cost of a replacement backer.  Make a spare at the same time...

Simple.


----------



## LegoDoug (Feb 17, 2015)

I love the idea of molding a new one. That may be the spring project, rather than remanufacturing a new backing. I picked the cheapest, quickest solution with which I was already familiar.


----------



## LegoDoug (Feb 17, 2015)

I will say that it appears that the fire brick does contribute significantly to the ability to project heat out where it belongs. Before my fire brick repair, at near 0°F outside, my house would drop to 60 or 61°F. With the fire brick in place, at the same outside temperatures, it didn't go below 65°F.


----------



## SidecarFlip (Feb 17, 2015)

LegoDoug said:


> I love the idea of molding a new one. That may be the spring project, rather than remanufacturing a new backing. I picked the cheapest, quickest solution with which I was already familiar.


 
We discussed it at length on a previous thread so use the 'search' button at the top of the page and type in backer board or replacement fake brick and I bet the thread pops up............

It's easy to do, like making a mud pie but you have to make sure all the air bubbles are out of the mix in the form and you have to bake the form and mix in your wife's oven (it don't stink but do it when you wife is away so you don't get hollered at) for a couple hours at 220 degrees to completely dry the mix and harden it before you remove the form.  It has to be completely dry (no moisture in the mix) and no trapped air bubbles.

It's easy to do.  I've made a couple for my stoves already.  Takes some time but it's a lot cheaper than factory.


----------

