# Difference between an occasional use, midrange, and pro saw



## fire_N_ice (Jul 23, 2008)

Is there a definition by some sort of "measure of time" that could help me to buy the proper chain saw if needed in the future?
 Occasional use saw? 
 Mid range use saw?
 Pro use saw?
How many hours per year, or month, or week, or day per use?
 My use would be for firewood, obviously. a cord to 1.5 per year. Scrounge wood so would be mixed hards and softs.


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## Adios Pantalones (Jul 23, 2008)

If you're cutting a few cord of firewood for yourself each year- I'd go with a midrange type saw.  "Occasional use" smacks of "underpowered", IMO and may lead to more work and frustration.  "Pro" may or may not mean much.  I have a Stihl "pro" saw- the only difference between mine and the non pro version is a relief valve that I don't often use and $100.  I love the saw, but wouldn't have got the pro version if I was doing it over.  

Other "pro" saws may give you a better power/weight ratio and save you a back ache.  If you're cutting 10+ cord a year then maybe it's worth it to you.  If you have a little extra money for toys, then it's a good option as well (that was me- I don't own a motorcycle here in NH (not common) and feel justified)

All that said- there are a few saws that look really good for the money.  There's a lot of talk about Dolmar's power/weight ratio.  If I was buying or recommending- I would look at those right now.


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## myzamboni (Jul 23, 2008)

My husky is not a pro saw, but has the compression relief valve.  From what I understand, the only difference between mine and the pro version is mine is clad in plastic and the pro saw is clad in metal.

The key here is what diameter wood you will encounter mor than the number of cords/year.  I talked with my dealer and size of logs being bucked was a bigger determining factor than number of cords.


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## Adios Pantalones (Jul 23, 2008)

That's probably true, but getting into it I had no idea that I'd be cutting trees as big as I did.  Even with the 16" trees- a little extra power makes the work go by faster.


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## TMonter (Jul 23, 2008)

Professional grade saws typically are lighter, have a metal crank housing and are designed for a longer service life in terms of hours than a consumer or mid-range saw.

Pro saws are also usually more specialized to a specific task in the saw size range.

(Also they don't come with lame safety chains)


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## kevin j (Jul 23, 2008)

No hard fast standards, only general descriptions.

for what you describe, couple cords a years, even the cheapest saw will do. Personally, I'd jump to the mid range just because of speed and life, but anything would work. 

Here is some 'cut & pasted' material:      part 1

'Occasional use' would be a few hours per year clearing storm wood, fallen branches, fire wood cutting. Typically 30 to 50 cc, 14 or 16 inch bars, plastic housings and parts. Cylinders are cast in and not rebuildable. That doesn't really matter, as the whole saw is maybe $100-200 and simply replacable. Poulan, Homelite, box store Husky models, Sears (usually Poulan) would be typical.
   Despite the image and how they are berated by the quality snobs, I think a cheap saw is a very viable option for most people, especially many on this board who seem more homeowner oriented. The arboristsite people tend to be more hard core or pro users.
    It takes many years of homeowner use to reach 100 hours. To me, these are good value for the rare user. IMO, much of the bad rap is that the people who buy the cheap box store saws are also the ones least likely to know much about them, or to maintain or use them properly. Keeping a razor sharp chain (i.e. learn to touch up file the chain), proper mix and cleaning filters, etc. makes a huge difference, especially at the low power and rpm these saws typically produce.


'Mid range' is sort of the deluxe homeowner range. They are designed for more life (many hundreds of hours), more power, considerably higher rpm, and excellent for the average firewood cutter. Cylinders and main bearings are usually replaceable (albeit with considerable disassembly). There is more metal and less plastic, better vibration isolation, and a range of larger engines. (Maybe 35 to 70 cc engines). These engines typically support 16 to 20 inch (maybe 24 inch) bars.
     Stihl has a wide range in the middle. Husky and Echo box store upper end saws, and many Husky or Echos sold at saw stores, also are in the 'mid range' description. Expect $200 to $400 prices.
     I have a Stihl 280 in this range. Good solid performer, 50+cc, 20 inch bar. A bit heavy, but the average homeowner coming from a 35 cc plastic saw would think this was the ultimate wood cutter. Cuts strong and fast, runs clean, and will last the life of the average user.
     For most firewood users, I would recommend skipping the cheap saws and going right to the mid range products. They are more of a lifetime purchase, faster production, and more enjoyable to use. 


'Pro grade' saws cover the entire size range (35 to 100+ cc) and tend to be specialized tools to make production when time and reliability is important. They are designed for maybe 1000-2000 hours, then can be easily rebuilt several times in their life. They use less plastic and more magnesium for lower weight and higher strength and rigidity (at higher costs of course). Anti vibration systems are usually much better, and more controlled and precise. Consumer saws with spring or rubber AV mounts tend to feel very rubbery and hard to control.
     Pro saws may have many features useful when using it for long hours in harsh conditions: compression relief for starting, heated carbs for resistance to icing, heated handlebars to prevent white finger disease.      
     Pro users tend to have many saws specialized to the task, because time and production are money and profit. There are top handle designs for climbing or for arborist work, huge motor felling saws to get the tree on the ground, high rpm limbing saws, and many other sizes.

'Pro' in a model name means almost nothing. For example the 'Poulan Pro' is a 50 cc plastic saw that would not last a year in pro use, yet it is a nice choice for a higher end of the consumer/homeowner type saws under $200. Another example, the Stihl 026 is a true pro grade limbing saw. The '026 Pro' is the same saw with a compression relief and some carb slight changes. The fundamental construction of both are truly pro grade, regardless of title.


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## kevin j (Jul 23, 2008)

part 2.
k



MY PREFERENCES:
     (Don't forget to budget at least $200 for PPE (chaps, gloves, earmuffs, faceshield or goggles, gloves, boots, etc), and at least $100 for wedges, gas cans, spare chains, files, gauges, tongs, peavey hook....... See the recommended equipment file.)

     For a homeowner who wants to be prepared to cut storm branches or trees, cuts some occasional firewood, or drops an occasional tree, price is most important. I would go hand bow saw, electric chainsaw, or not hesitate to buy a $150 consumer saw. Roughly all about the same quality. With proper care they will last a long time, just not cut so fast.

     For anyone heating with wood, go right to the midrange 50 to 60 cc saws. The consumer saws won't last long or cut fast enough for the volume of wood to be done. 

     For a serious firewood cutter on the 'one saw plan' who wants/needs/appreciates the pro grade quality, the Stihl MS361 is sort of the reigning king right now: 60 cc, about 14 lbs, and suitable for felling, bucking and limbing. About $700.

     For the 'multi-saw plan', these are typical selections:
-Top handle climbing or arborist saw: 35-50 cc, top handle, 12 to 14 inch bar, 8 to 10 lbs.
-High speed limbing saw, for cutting up to about say 4 to 6 inch branches. Light (about 11 lbs, for all the swing/stop/cut/swing motions inherent in limbing), high rpm (usually about 14,000 rpm), 50 cc range.
     Stihl 026/260 was the usual for many years, but it is an old dated design. Still a great saw, (I love mine) but probably eclipsed by the Husky 346 or Dolmar 5100. All in the $400-600 range.
-Bucking or felling saw, around 70 cc. Several Stihl models, Husky 372 and others, Dolmar 7900. $500-700.
-Specialty or big wood saws. Not addressed here. 70 cc and up, for felling, bucking or ripping/milling use.


Of course, any cheap saw can be fitted with top quality bar and chain. IMO, the biggest difference is not between safety or non safety chain, it is the quality and design of the chain, size, gauge, chipper vs. chisel, and how well it is sharpened.


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## BJ64 (Jul 25, 2008)

I just about agree with everybody else.

The occasional use saw will be more of a pain than pleasure when you want to get things done.  We have so many different brands of saws in my area I can't keep track of them all but it seems these days that everybody is happy with the saw they have even the cheaper ones sold at Wal-Mart.  This leads me to believe that a good saw is not hard to get.  I use Stihl because the dealer is a real good guy and the mechanics are always helpful.  

One big thing that may not be present in the occasional use saws is an anti vibration system.  A non anti vibe saw will just about shake my arms to hurting after a few hours.

My 280 is considered a mid range and I use it the most going after the tops of trees and clearing fence rows.  My 441 is the baby of the big saws and it is used for the bigger stuff and if somebody else is with me and I let them use the 280.  As for speed of cut; the 441 is faster on material 12 inches or more but the 280 is so much lighter that I prefer to use it most of the time.


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## Backroads (Jul 25, 2008)

The difference in each is about $100-$200 each which is almost directly relevant to the power, weight and construction of the saw.


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## PeteD (Jul 25, 2008)

I would go mid-range.  I bought a Husky 350 a while back and they considered that "landowner" or midrange for them, IIRC.

It has some of the professional saw features, like compression relief (which I love by the way) and is fairly light weight.

I got the 18 inch bar and have never had it lack for power with a sharp chain.

I think you want something that is going to start for you and work adequately when you need it.  Unless you are getting really serious, I don't think the average wood gatherer needs more than a 20-inch bar to get things done.

Pete


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## BJ64 (Jul 26, 2008)

PeteD said:
			
		

> Unless you are getting really serious, I don't think the average wood gatherer needs more than a 20-inch bar to get things done.
> 
> Pete



I would agree with that. At least for my area that is true.  I've had the 30+ in bar for two years and have used it only on two occasions because an ice storm felled some huge pecan trees.  In fact I do most of my work with a 16" bar because it is the lighter saw. 

Another thing is that the longer the bar, the more likely you are going to hit the dirt or get into a fence wire with it.


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## chad3 (Jul 30, 2008)

Kevin J has great advice.  The multi-purose plan is what I use.  Run what you need and you will be very happy if you cut lots of wood.  I've cut almost 20 cords since April and have the saw to cut them all. Read my sig and you can see my choices.


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## Outdoorsman (Jul 30, 2008)

I'll say that for anyone cutting 4 cord or more a pro saw is worth consideration.  I use them as I love the better power to weight ratio they have.  And as I cut 4 to 15 cords per year as well as doing a small amount of trim work for Xtra income they are worth it to me.  I'm not a "Pro" who makes the majority of his money from my saws, but do like to get the most results/wood for my time spent.

But for 1 to 1.5 cord per year you said you need I'd not spend the money on most pro saws.

A single saw of the MS 250, MS 270 or MS 280 with a 16 or 18" bar should serve you very well.  These are mid range saws, but do a good job & have most of the pro saw features.  

The one "pro saw" you might want to consider, as it's priced more like a mid-range saw, is the Dolmar 5100s.  The Dolmar 5100 is, like most pro grade saws, quite light for it's power, about 16 lbs. I'd guess with 18" bar & chain + fuel & oil.  Or for comparison purposes the bare dry motor head weighs 11.2 lbs & 3.9 hp.  Yet this saw can be had for $380.00 at a dealer near me new.  As it's priced like a mid-range it's worth a look if a saw of 50cc and 3.9 hp is what you decide on.  Most other pro saws of the 45 - 50cc size start at least $100.00 higher in cost.


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## wellbuilt home (Aug 5, 2008)

Ive used a orange poulan  saw for 20 years  and it started and ran with lots of power . I had lost some parts and could not find them so i bought a stihl  20" saw boss  and it real nice .I think it was around 300 bucks.


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