# Vermont Castings Dutchwest



## neumsky (Dec 28, 2011)

What do ya'll think of the Vermont Castings Dutchwest stoves?  Thanx   Jeff


----------



## VCBurner (Dec 28, 2011)

I loved mine, just sold it last august no chimney at the new house.  Click on the thread listed at the bottom of my signature to see an entire thread devoted to all things dutchwest. Mine was the large cat.


----------



## neumsky (Dec 29, 2011)

Just outa curiousity...Chris...what does 5 boys & a wife have to do with not having a wood stove??? Jeff  BTW....thanx for all the info.... I'm starting to wonder if having a catalyc model is worth it? Again...thanx so much...very informative.


----------



## neumsky (Dec 29, 2011)

I'm just finding out that they make a non catalyst model of these???


----------



## Hardrockmaple (Dec 29, 2011)

I've had my DutchWest 2460 (small w/cat) for 15 years now. It is burning as well today as it did 15 years ago with a minimum of maintenance.


----------



## Hanko (Dec 29, 2011)

I have run a medium dutchwest non cat for 6 years now in my shop. I have had no problems what so ever. Now, you will probably get some very negitive opinions as soon as people wake up and get on the computor. It demands a good draft and dry wood, and normal intellegence to operate. Keep the downdraft chambers clean which involves removing the top.(no big deal).


----------



## neumsky (Dec 29, 2011)

Is it a general consensus that it would be easier for the wife to run a non cat for the wife tho?


----------



## wellbuilt home (Dec 29, 2011)

I  loved my EX large DW cat stove  .
   I used mine for 15 years +-  Fill the stove  lite it up  and let it burn .
    I changed the cat a few times . 
  I would not get the ever burn system .       John


----------



## Dakotas Dad (Dec 29, 2011)

neumsky said:
			
		

> Is it a general consensus that it would be easier for the wife to run a non cat for the wife tho?



My wife will be along in a few to make a comment about the "spirit" of what you, poor lost soul that you are, have written.

If your wife can walk and chew bubble gum, she can run a cat stove. It has exactly twice as many "levers" as a non-cat stove, and the SEX of the operator has nothing to do with being able to operate them.


----------



## neumsky (Dec 29, 2011)

Now your making me feel bad... you don't know my wife haha...she's not very techy. And the simpler a device is...makes her happy...happy wife...happy life!


----------



## neumsky (Dec 29, 2011)

@ wellbuilt home... why not? on the everburn system that is.


----------



## neumsky (Dec 29, 2011)

Here's another question...if I bipass the catalytic converter...will that ever hurt the stove...so we could just leave it in that mode? except for when I really need the heat let's say on a day when my furnace goes out as the room I will have this in is very small.


----------



## Hanko (Dec 29, 2011)

you can leave your car in first gear too, but its more efficient in road gear


----------



## leeave96 (Dec 29, 2011)

I think the cat versions of the DW stoves are great stoves - easy on the eyes and feature rich stoves.  I have read (and do some searching) that the non-cat versions are crap.

As far as using the cat - they are drop dead simple.  If a person can't run one, they ought to stick to pellet stoves or something else.

Good luck!
Bill


----------



## neumsky (Dec 29, 2011)

I appreciate the input...for me...I fly airplanes for a living...so I think I can handle it... I really do want to consider my wife tho...and I think this info helps, so I might just get one than. I am noticing that some of you guys don't own one yourself tho...any reason for that?    Thanx so much   Jeff


----------



## Hanko (Dec 29, 2011)

leeave96 said:
			
		

> I think the cat versions of the DW stoves are great stoves - easy on the eyes and feature rich stoves.  I have read (and do some searching) that the non-cat versions are crap.
> 
> As far as using the cat - they are drop dead simple.  If a person can't run one, they ought to stick to pellet stoves or something else.
> 
> ...



maybe you should talk about facts, and not what you have read. I think crap is a little rude, as there are people that have them and like them. remember I said that they need average intellegence to operate


----------



## VCBurner (Dec 29, 2011)

neumsky said:
			
		

> Just outa curiousity...Chris...what does 5 boys & a wife have to do with not having a wood stove??? Jeff  BTW....thanx for all the info.... I'm starting to wonder if having a catalyc model is worth it? Again...thanx so much...very informative.


No problem. The cat dw is very easy to use and low maintenance, not to mention controlable during the shoulder season. But if you are buying new there are so many options! BTW the wife and kids loved it too! I had to sell mine because of a move, new rental has no chimney. 

I would not hesitate on buying another dw, I'd go used though, a third of the price of a new one. Look into Woodstock?


----------



## neumsky (Dec 29, 2011)

Well even I know that it's not a new science except you do not have 2 levers to control air for temp control in your car. I have seen so far where some people are having some experimental issues with conversations like...runaway temps...different wood moisture content...pipe temp...box temp...winds blowing out of the south...out of the north...ambient temp...internal temp...blah...blah... so to a newbie...I have to wonder...why all these variables???  Thanx   Do not want to start a fight...just want to KISS.


----------



## sparklow (Dec 29, 2011)

I've been using my Dutchwest A-Plus Cat. stove for over 20 heating seasons. I will burn it occassionaly in non-cat mode to burn the carbon off the front window or if I don't need full output. I don't consider it difficult to run although I've had twenty years of practice. I have replaced gaskets and one cast iron part in all those years.


----------



## leeave96 (Dec 29, 2011)

Hanko said:
			
		

> leeave96 said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I am talking FACTS.  I've got both, a cat stove and non-cat stove.  Maybe you should get your facts straight and lighten-up on your rude crap.

Bill


----------



## leeave96 (Dec 29, 2011)

neumsky said:
			
		

> I appreciate the input...for me...I fly airplanes for a living...so I think I can handle it... I really do want to consider my wife tho...and I think this info helps, so I might just get one than. I am noticing that some of you guys don't own one yourself tho...any reason for that?    Thanx so much   Jeff



Another cat stove to consider is Woodstock.  You might find right now that pricing may be similar - just a thought.  See woodstove.com

Good luck!
Bill


----------



## VCBurner (Dec 30, 2011)

Just stopped by the thread to see how Newmsky's stove search was going only to find out some people are getting nervous!

I knew it was coming the minute you mentioned non cat dw. Bill it's not the first time I've seen Hanko lose his cool over someone downtalking his stove.  Truth is you never know how you'll like a stove untill you try it in your own house. 

As far as getting advice from members about stoves, they are mere opinions. My opinion is if you're buying new the Woodstock prices are good and service unmatched!  The PE Alderlea series gets great reviews too. Like I stated before, there are so many options!
If I were to choose between cat vs. non cat in the DW series I'd take the cat any day!!
Hanko might go w the nc. But again the choices are endless. 

I certainly would not discount the cats. They are not hard to operate, but some consider them more flexible during the shoulder season. The DW has three levers primary air, damper lever and cat air.  Some people never touch the cat air lever. Most modern stoves are not like the old allnighters were you just load them in the basement and leave!
Good luck with the search, keep us posted.


----------



## eclecticcottage (Dec 30, 2011)

I had considered the DW before, but went with the Lopi because I prefered the dealer and we were having them do the install.  I really like the looks of the cat version.  They don't sound overly difficult to use, I think my biggest issue would have been getting DH to remember not to open it up to reload with the cat engaged.

As far as operation...why not check for a dealer in your area that has the stove burning in their showroom?  When we were stove shopping, that's what we did.  Saw the Endeavor burning, got a quick how to on the bypass damper and reg damper, etc and saw what it looked like in use.  Went with the Republic, which is a sister stove to the Endeavor, instead (a little different in looks and no by-pass damper, plus less $$) but it was helpful none the less.

I do find the "can my wife operate xxx type of stove" comments humorous...I guess it's like assuming guys can't cook or women can't turn a wrench...I know plenty of guys that can handle a paring knife and women that can do a tune up or oil change...and women that can bractically burn water and guys that barely know where to put the gas in their car, much less check or change their oil.


----------



## Hardrockmaple (Dec 30, 2011)

I just got back from checking out a new DW 2461 at a dealer. Only change, other than the handles, I could find was an improvement in the damper itself, it now has a lip around the damper which, IMO, would give you better seal. Heckuva price as well $1390.00 (Cdn.) + taxes. I paid $1200.00 + taxes 15 years ago for my 2460.


----------



## neumsky (Dec 30, 2011)

@ Pyro Extraordinaire... thats funny when you mentioned about how people get nervous when the discussion starts meddling with how well certain equipment functions haha. I do like the KISS method. I do believe I have settled on a Jodul 118 Bear. Not 100% yet tho...gotta do measurements. I like the looks...the stoutness of the cast iron...the simplicity and the cost. This is & will continue to be a fun & learning experience for me or us. I can say this...I've learned that the catalyst is more finicky & probably more expensive to operate...barring the cost of less wood you would probably burn due to having a catalyst. I'm open minded and will like for any other input. If some of this upsets some people...take an anger management course haha. There is alot to learn and realize there's alot of experience on here and appreciate chatting with ya'll.   Jeff


----------



## wellbuilt home (Dec 31, 2011)

neumsky said:
			
		

> @ well built home... why not? on the everburn system that is.



 I think the ever burn system is crap . 
 Its very picky about the wood it likes . 
  The wood needs to be bone dry . 
 The chimney needs to be 20' + to burn well . 
  The cat stove  burns no matter what , lite the stove  
 get it burning good,    close damper,  adjust the air 
 reload in 7/8 hs . 
  There is a cat  air intake  that i adjusted in 95 and never looked at it again . 

  I traded my DW  for a hearthstone Equinox  and i'm having  lots of trouble
  making heat .                            John


----------



## wellbuilt home (Dec 31, 2011)

neumsky said:
			
		

> Here's another question...if I bypass the catalytic converter...will that ever hurt the stove...so we could just leave it in that mode? except for when I really need the heat let's say on a day when my furnace goes out as the room I will have this in is very small.


 
   There is no need to run with a open flue. 
   My stove would run  6/8 hrs with 3 splits and low air setting  and burn clean .


----------



## neumsky (Dec 31, 2011)

Just outa curiousity tho wellbuilt...if you were happy with the DW..why did you trade?  Jeff


----------



## Hanko (Dec 31, 2011)

leeave96 said:
			
		

> Hanko said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



someday you'll be a man


----------



## leeave96 (Dec 31, 2011)

Hanko said:
			
		

> leeave96 said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



HA HA HA HA HA HA HA


----------



## VCBurner (Dec 31, 2011)

Hey Jeff, how much space are ya lookin to heat? This is the first question you should ask your self. Then look at burn times and fire box size. The bigger the better. Once you find your savings account filling with money from heating cost you'll wish you bought a stove with a bigger fire box and longer burn times. Think  long and hard before you settle. If Jotul is what you want at least go with a Castine or Oslo depending on how much space you're looking to heat, if, that is, you want a serious heater.  You don't want to regret a purchase later. If all you want is a part time space heater than it may be that the 119 is all you'll need.


----------



## VCBurner (Dec 31, 2011)

wellbuilt home said:
			
		

> neumsky said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hey again Jeff, 
Sounds like you want something that you can operate easily, yes you could leave the damper open. However, that would be like throwing money out the window. On the shoulder season or whenever there are mild temps (40Â° or above) you can get a 12-16 hour period between reloads without a match, with a DW2461 large cat. Also without heating yourself out of the room and burning harmful gasses and turning them into heat instead of pollution.


----------



## rasmussenjohn (Dec 31, 2011)

I to loved the look of the Duchwest stoves cat or non cat both types look good. We put a order in at a local store for the DW 2477 non cat. then found out that it was going to be discontinued bummer also Vermont Castings has had issus with getting parts from them.

After I found out everything I could I backed out of the DW2477 and went with the Hampton H200. Shure there are nicer stoves than the H200 but it was the only one that met our tasts.

Just do a bit of resurch on the DW. Talk to the dealer ask them if it would get installed in his (her) house. The DW has a lerning curve that will test even the most layed back person in the Everburn non cat style. Remember a DW is the B model of VC.

We were told that the DW line was getting dropped so that being said getting parts for the stove may be a concern.


----------



## neumsky (Dec 31, 2011)

Thanx Rasmussen....this is the stuff I wanna hear...even tho Bill was a little politically incorrect haha... that's the way I like it...to the point. The more Yea's or Ney's is what helps us influence our decision making...it's the American way haha!


----------



## neumsky (Dec 31, 2011)

@ Chris... Yes I like something simple. KISS (keep it simple stupid). Haha...moreso not for me but my concern was if my wife wants to burn she can leave it in the bypass mode and it would'nt hurt anything. Being it generated a gender issue...let me restate this...I don't care what gender you are if your not interested in learning something...your not going to. It's taken me a few years to figure that one out. I'm a considerate husband and want to keep it that way. I like to keep her involved. Now as far as my room is concerned... it's a 200 square ft porch room I built. It has 2 used to be exterior doors & 2 used to be exterior 7 ft windows. One door opens into the dining area...one opens into the master bedroom. The windows open into the living room. The windows and doors which are now considered interior windows stay open almost exclusively. Now...the porch room has 6 windows & one 3'0" door. So the porch room really is all window's and door exept where the existing house is where it is brick. Yes it's a 200 square ft room but it accesses the rest of the house. Now if I have a total electrical failure... I have had to start up my generater to keep the NG furnace going. It takes electricity to run the squirrel cage. So I've decided on the Jotul F1800 Black Bear CB. It's a little bigger than whats need for the little room but can heat a good portion of our 2200 sq ft house if needed. That's why it was an issue if it was catalytic or not... I understand that catalyst equiped stoves have to run hotter than non. That's why it was a concern. Sounds like the everburn systems are finicky also. It seems as tho the magic number for non cats is 300 degree's to keep the creosote down???  This is an education, I'm enjoying!   Jeff


----------



## raybonz (Dec 31, 2011)

neumsky said:
			
		

> @ Chris... Yes I like something simple. KISS (keep it simple stupid). Haha...moreso not for me but my concern was if my wife wants to burn she can leave it in the bypass mode and it would'nt hurt anything. Being it generated a gender issue...let me restate this...I don't care what gender you are if your not interested in learning something...your not going to. It's taken me a few years to figure that one out. I'm a considerate husband and want to keep it that way. I like to keep her involved. Now as far as my room is concerned... it's a 200 square ft porch room I built. It has 2 used to be exterior doors & 2 used to be exterior 7 ft windows. One door opens into the dining area...one opens into the master bedroom. The windows open into the living room. The windows and doors which are now considered interior windows stay open almost exclusively. Now...the porch room has 6 windows & one 3'0" door. So the porch room really is all window's and door exept where the existing house is where it is brick. Yes it's a 200 square ft room but it accesses the rest of the house. Now if I have a total electrical failure... I have had to start up my generater to keep the NG furnace going. It takes electricity to run the squirrel cage. So I've decided on the Jotul F1800 Black Bear CB. It's a little bigger than whats need for the little room but can heat a good portion of our 2200 sq ft house if needed. That's why it was an issue if it was catalytic or not... I understand that catalyst equiped stoves have to run hotter than non. That's why it was a concern. Sounds like the everburn systems are finicky also. It seems as tho the magic number for non cats is 300 degree's to keep the creosote down???  This is an education, I'm enjoying!   Jeff



Hi Jeff,
I can remain silent no longer.. I ran a CDW large convection cat for over 20 years and now have a T-5 which is a secondary burn stove and they both have their advantages.. The cat stove can run a long low burn much better than a secondary burn stove.. You need enough heat to keep the secondaries lit so as to burn the smoke so you can do it with practice however the cat was easier to run on low.. I have read many negative posts about Everburn here just search ih the forum and you will see for yourself.. The Everburn has a lot of fragile refractory material which is expensive to replace while a cat on a 2461 will set you back $125.00 every 6 years or so (the 2461 is built like a tank and hard to break).. I feel if you want to go secondary burn the Jotul is a better choice as they tend to be more rugged and they have been around a very long time.. Your thinking on cat stoves is backward and in fact a cat stove can be run much cooler than a non-cat and I can easily cook myself out of my house if I burn too much wood with my T-5 secondary burn stove.. A cat stove can be loaded up to the gills then choked down once the cat kicks in and run for a long low burn, Blazekings and Woodstocks are knows for this trait.. A good cat or secondary burn stove is not finicky at all but a poorly designed stove will be a PIA.. I suggest you read the reviews on the main page of Hearth.com.. A plus with a secondary burn stove is they can really crank the heat and warm a home or room quickly and I found cat stoves were best in the low to mid range.. So far I like my T-5 as it's easy to learn and fairly predictable.. Welcome to the forum and good luck!

Ray


----------



## xbunzx (Dec 31, 2011)

I love mine I got the big boy and it can heat you out of the house.


----------



## VCBurner (Dec 31, 2011)

Hello again Jeff,
So it sounds like the space you want to potentially heat is 2200'?

This may not be your intention right now. But once you get a good stove and see its capability of keeping the furnace from burning money up its flue and out of your pocket, you'll wish you had bought a bigger stove. I've seen it time and time again, people have come here and asked questions just like yours and chosen the smaller stove. Only to come back and say I wish I got the bigger stove. Some have even upgraded andgot rid of the original. If price is a concern have you looled at Englander nc30 stove?  If going with a Jotul I urge you to think Castine or Oslo. BTW, cat stoves do not burn hotter than nc. That statement, whoever told you, was incorrect. The catalytic converter gets hot but so does any secondary burn method or baffle. Cat stoves are known for their ability to be chocked down and burn low. No matter what stove youget there will be a problem if it is just loaded and let run without learning how to use it. A fire can and will run away on you and potentially burn down your house if you constantly overheat your stove or operate it incorrectly. 

Good luck with the purchase Jeff, choose wisely!
Take care,
Chris


----------



## neumsky (Dec 31, 2011)

Chris... I am tending to agree with you 100 % and I do not want to make the mistake of wasting my money & time to discover the right peice of equipment for my family's pleasure & comfort!


----------



## wellbuilt home (Dec 31, 2011)

neumsky said:
			
		

> Just outta curiosity tho wellbuilt...if you were happy with the DW..why did you trade?  Jeff



   My old DW was getting old 
 It was over fired by the wife or kids at some point .
  and i needed 800 $ worth of parts . 
  I could have bought a new dw xl for $1700 
  The new EQ with 125,000 BTU seemed like it would heat much better . 
   I wanted to add 800 sf to the house and hoped it could  heat the extra footage . 
   I mite dump the EQ next year  and cut my losses . 
                                                                                         John


----------



## neumsky (Dec 31, 2011)

Here's what I'm talking about Bill (leeave96)...I wanna know how this happens and somebody else just blamed it on the wife or kids...not me haha. This probably happens more often than not.


----------



## Hardrockmaple (Jan 1, 2012)

neumsky said:
			
		

> Here's what I'm talking about Bill (leeave96)...I wanna know how this happens and somebody else just blamed it on the wife or kids...not me haha. This probably happens more often than not.



Any stove can be overfired, I think it happens more often with the secondary burn stoves than with a cat stove. My DW, for example, which is 15 years old has never been overfired.  There is a learning curve to all stoves, once one gets the hang of their stove life with that stove becomes pretty routine.


----------



## leeave96 (Jan 1, 2012)

neumsky said:
			
		

> Here's what I'm talking about Bill (leeave96)...I wanna know how this happens and somebody else just blamed it on the wife or kids...not me haha. This probably happens more often than not.



If you are asking about overfire - it can happen to anyone - but rarely if ever to someone that knows their stove and how to burn it.  A great head start is doing just what you are doing - reading and asking questions on this forum.

Good luck,
Bill


----------



## webby3650 (Jan 1, 2012)

I can tell you that we often have to replace parts, or even rebuild non-cat DW's. Some of these have parts warp or crack, or crumble apart, for no obvious reason, this seems to happen with the most attentive person at the controls. We rebuilt one that was completely abused, too. We never work on the cat DW's, and never seen to hear anything bad about them. I would avoid the non cat if I were you.
I'm afraid the Black Bear won't be that great in 2200 sq. ft. If you truly want a stove that you can load it up and forget about it, get a Blaze King. You won't have to worry about your wife learning the controls, she won't have to. I load mine at night, and then the next night, my wife never has to touch the thing. Although it is very simple.


----------



## metalsped (Jan 1, 2012)

My father in law runs both a small DW and a large DW (small downstairs, large in the main living space). He swears by them. They are both cat models.


----------



## raybonz (Jan 1, 2012)

metalsped said:
			
		

> My father in law runs both a small DW and a large DW (small downstairs, large in the main living space). He swears by them. They are both cat models.



Go to a DW dealer and inspect/compare the cat and non-cat models and you can see why the cat model is so durable.. The only fragile refractory mat'l on the non-cat is above the firebox and out of harm's way.. The firebox is entirely cast iron and very hard to damage compared to the non-cat..

Ray


----------



## neumsky (Jan 1, 2012)

Webby...thanx for that info...on the cat vs non cat. Interesting! I am only interested in supplemental heating. (emergency heating if necessary). It's going to be in a 200 sq ft room with open windows & doors to the rest of the house. So don't want it too big.


----------



## webby3650 (Jan 1, 2012)

Oh, i missed that part about the small area. Go check out the 1.6 Enerzone. It retails for about $1165 I think, i have been very impressed with the Enerzone line. They are very responsive and not too bad looking. The small Travis stoves are a good value too, check out the 1250 and 1750.


----------



## dyerkutn (Jan 15, 2012)

Dakotas Dad said:
			
		

> neumsky said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




I am a 60 year old totally non-handy woman who has been successfully running a very old (1983) Dutchwest Federal Airtight Catalytic stove for 12 years. I just followed the instructions in the manual. It gets a bit dirty at times with all the loading and so forth but if I can do it probably your wife can too!


----------



## HotCoals (Jan 15, 2012)

dyerkutn said:
			
		

> Dakotas Dad said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm curious,
Are you still using the original cat?
If not how many have you been through?
Thanks,
Dave.


----------



## dyerkutn (Jan 15, 2012)

HotCoals said:
			
		

> dyerkutn said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




I had the stove checked out this spring (being non-handy) and the guy told me that he thinks it is the original. It is extremely scuzzy but he said as long as it is not cracked it is ok. FYI there are three controls--the front door air vent, the side door airvent and the ?bypass--it is basically a flue damper. When it is hot I close all three to burn the wood as slowly as possible.  Never thought I could actually have info that is useful to anybody!


----------



## VCBurner (Jan 15, 2012)

I would say if you have been using the cat for 12 years it is probably spent! It may not look bad but they only last about 10 years tops. Unless you only burn occasionally, then who knows how long it'll last? A new cat would probably light off much quicker and longer, providing much more heat. It would save you on wood. Look up Woodstock Soapstone Stove company, they have good prices on the new stainless steel (about $125.)


----------



## raybonz (Jan 15, 2012)

dyerkutn said:
			
		

> Dakotas Dad said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Right on! Welcome to the forum!

Ray


----------



## raybonz (Jan 15, 2012)

dyerkutn said:
			
		

> HotCoals said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Just because it is not cracked doesn't mean it is still working.. Do you have a cat thermometer and does the cat get into the normal range? If it doesn't then your cat is dead and needs to be replaced.. If you go outside when all is running as it should you should see no smoke coming from your chimney..

Ray


----------



## dyerkutn (Jan 15, 2012)

Ray--well this is new and interesting info.   the temp on the round thermometer stays between 800 and 1200 depending on how attentive I am to adding wood--probably more if I really packed it. Right now both vents and the damper (is that the bypass?) are shut and there is smoke coming out of the chimney and the temp is 1000. unless there is some other way to measure the temp.--and it is really hot it here. 

So does this mean I am not burning as efficiently as possible?  I know that when everything is closed the wood burns quite slowly and I am pretty sure without flames. I put in a few pieces about 90 minutes ago. Also, I have had the chimney and pipe (which extends close to 20 feet from the  stove to vaulted ceiling ) checked twice over the last few years and both time they said there was no build up of creosote or ashes.


----------



## raybonz (Jan 15, 2012)

dyerkutn said:
			
		

> Ray--well this is new and interesting info.   the temp on the round thermometer stays between 800 and 1200 depending on how attentive I am to adding wood--probably more if I really packed it. Right now both vents and the damper (is that the bypass?) are shut and there is smoke coming out of the chimney and the temp is 1000. unless there is some other way to measure the temp.--and it is really hot it here.
> 
> So does this mean I am not burning as efficiently as possible?  I know that when everything is closed the wood burns quite slowly and I am pretty sure without flames. I put in a few pieces about 90 minutes ago. Also, I have had the chimney and pipe (which extends close to 20 feet from the  stove to vaulted ceiling ) checked twice over the last few years and both time they said there was no build up of creosote or ashes.



Sounds like you're burning OK.. The smoke you're seeing could be a bit of steam if it dissipates a short distance from the chimney and if not your bypass damper gasket could be leaking.. 

Ray


----------



## dyerkutn (Jan 15, 2012)

VCBurner said:
			
		

> I would say if you have been using the cat for 12 years it is probably spent! It may not look bad but they only last about 10 years tops. Unless you only burn occasionally, then who knows how long it'll last? A new cat would probably light off much quicker and longer, providing much more heat. It would save you on wood. Look up Woodstock Soapstone Stove company, they have good prices on the new stainless steel (about $125.)



I do NOT run it continuously nor do I rely on it exclusively. I work majorly full time and other involvements keep me out on some nights for meetings. ON weekends I wait till the sun has stopped warming ( I have very large windows south facing). Also, I do not use it exclusively. If I only have a couple of hours in the house, as between coming home and going to sleep, I do not start it up.  In the late afternoon I put on my oil heat till I get the stove going and in the morning before work I rely on oil heat. Also, I have no idea how much the people who owned the house before me used it.  I burn about a cord of wood each season from late Oct till late March or early April. So what do you think about the amount of use that is.


----------



## dyerkutn (Jan 15, 2012)

raybonz said:
			
		

> dyerkutn said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I really appreciate your feedback. It does dissipate pretty quickly. Where would thy damper gasket be located. I mean what do I have to do to see it?

I have not check this forum since I posted in early spring looking for a house call---was brought back by the need for some brass handles and am now motivated to learn more about the stove. I got the idea from reading other posts that I have done pretty well (you know, for a non-handy person) which is reassuring but I at this point welcome information to be a more knowledgeable user.


----------



## raybonz (Jan 15, 2012)

One cord of wood a year is light usage as I burn about 3 per year and did with my old CDW as well.. At that rate a cat could last 15+ years.. Make sure your wood is well seasoned and you'll be fine..

Ray


----------



## Hardrockmaple (Jan 15, 2012)

dyerkutn said:
			
		

> Ray--well this is new and interesting info.   the temp on the round thermometer stays between 800 and 1200 depending on how attentive I am to adding wood--probably more if I really packed it. Right now both vents and the damper (is that the bypass?) are shut and there is smoke coming out of the chimney and the temp is 1000. unless there is some other way to measure the temp.--and it is really hot it here.
> 
> So does this mean I am not burning as efficiently as possible?  I know that when everything is closed the wood burns quite slowly and I am pretty sure without flames. I put in a few pieces about 90 minutes ago. Also, I have had the chimney and pipe (which extends close to 20 feet from the  stove to vaulted ceiling ) checked twice over the last few years and both time they said there was no build up of creosote or ashes.



If your temp probe is reading 800-1200 your cat seems to be working. To avoid smoke out the chimney try letting the stove go through it's burn cycle. By this I mean, put what wood in you need, let it burn back down 'yil your temp probe reads 300-400 degrees, reload wood, close damper, open primary air control about a third of the way, char wood 'til temps go back up to 500-600, close the stove down, go through burn cycle....repeat.

This should help.


----------



## raybonz (Jan 15, 2012)

dyerkutn said:
			
		

> raybonz said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Not sure on your stove as it is older than the one I had.. It is the rope gasket that the bypass damper seals against when open the bypass when  you load wood.. They tend to get displaced over time and/or deteriorate with the heat.... Hard to explain..

Ray


----------



## raybonz (Jan 15, 2012)

dyerkutn said:
			
		

> raybonz said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



If the "smoke" dissipates quickly it's probably just water vapor which is normal.. Sounds like you're doing fine there..

Ray


----------



## dyerkutn (Jan 15, 2012)

Hardrockmaple said:
			
		

> dyerkutn said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



By primary air control do you mean the one on the front by my ash area or the one on the side door. I have always opened the front one when starting up, closed the damper around 500-600 and then closed the front down when it  gets to around 800 and only opened the side one for a little extra air when needed (like when the temp drops but there is still wood)


----------



## raybonz (Jan 15, 2012)

dyerkutn said:
			
		

> Hardrockmaple said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Sounds like you know what you're doing to me.. Just be careful with primary air as it can cause an overfire if you forget to close it.. I left it closed and used only secondary air but what you're doing is fine..

Ray


----------



## VCBurner (Jan 16, 2012)

dyerkutn said:
			
		

> I do NOT run it continuously nor do I rely on it exclusively. I work majorly full time and other involvements keep me out on some nights for meetings. ON weekends I wait till the sun has stopped warming ( I have very large windows south facing). Also, I do not use it exclusively. If I only have a couple of hours in the house, as between coming home and going to sleep, I do not start it up.  In the late afternoon I put on my oil heat till I get the stove going and in the morning before work I rely on oil heat. Also, I have no idea how much the people who owned the house before me used it.  I burn about a cord of wood each season from late Oct till late March or early April. So what do you think about the amount of use that is.


 1 cord a year is very light use. Most people around here burn around 3-4, at least the ones who use their stoves for primary heat. There is no exact number of cords per cat that I know of, but from the sounds of it, yours may still be good, as you are an occasional user. When I had a Dutchwest, after buying a new stainless steel cat, I could load the stove and put down the damper much quicker, but it sounds like your situation may not require quick reloads. I used to load the stove before going to work in the morning, as it was my primary source of heat. So quicker reloading was nice. I would still recommend a new cat if you want to maximize the performance of your stove. But why spend the money if it seems to work well without it. Temps of 800-1200 on the cat probe are a good indicator that it may still be doing its job. 

Some pointers:
1) you don't have to wait until your cat probe says 500Â° before shutting the damper, as long as things are heating up and it is climbing beyond 300Â° you can shut the damper. The wood should be burning with all the visible logs at least 3/4 engulfed in flames.
2) as soon as you shut the damper also shut the primary air (in front on sides of the door) to only 1/4 open-almost fully shut. Shutting the primary air quicker will actually make the catalyst light off quicker.
 These adjustments should allow you to save on wood, while elongating the heat output per load.


----------

