# Arrow 1800A



## jay_blu (Jan 29, 2013)

I have a few questions about this stove, Is it certified?  Is that just the ul listing?  Do the stoves have to be epa tested for your insurance to cover you still?  The manual says its ULC certified but I dont see it on the back label  I think mine was made in 96 (the stamped numbers are pretty spaced out). 

I sand blasted mine and re painted it, looks brand new now.  Im installing a new door seal and I rebuilt the blower it wasn't working when I got it.

I will post some more done shots once I get the stove re-assembled.


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## Heatsource (Jan 29, 2013)

pre-epa, so not epa certified. but is a UL listed appliance, so you install off the label, not NFPA211
about 1983 i'd guess. (test date 1982)

every insurance co has different policies, what does your agent have to say?


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## jay_blu (Jan 31, 2013)

Insurance said they want it installed by someone that’s licensed and then they want to come and inspect it and take pictures.  Other than that they said it was fine.

Ok so the label says 8" from a combustible wall if you use a double wall chimney right.  Two questions, is this just the double wall with no insulation or a class A pipe?  Also if I put up concrete board and tiled it with slate would that change anything?  I’m just curious about that I don’t plan on putting it close to the wall.


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## jay_blu (Feb 7, 2013)

I’m considering doing a through wall installation for this stove as it is in my basement.  The only other way I could install it straight up would be to move my whole air handler then take out an old chimney.  

I have a bit of a soffit problem, as in I don’t know what to do about going around it/through it or building a chase?  Here is a pic of the back of my house where I would like to install the through wall.  I circled the window in red that would be easy to get the stove pipe out.  The medium window above that one is to the bathroom, I could move or replace it but don’t really want to.  

we would be putting the stove down in a corner of the finished basement and we really really really want it to go there.

Any input would be appreciated greatly!


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## Heatsource (Feb 8, 2013)

jay_blu said:


> Insurance said they want it installed by someone that’s licensed and then they want to come and inspect it and take pictures. Other than that they said it was fine.
> 
> Ok so the label says 8" from a combustible wall if you use a double wall chimney right. Two questions, is this just the double wall with no insulation or a class A pipe? Also if I put up concrete board and tiled it with slate would that change anything? I’m just curious about that I don’t plan on putting it close to the wall.


 
they mean double wall interior pipe, like simpsom dvl
you could add wall protection and use single wall, but wall protection will only allow you to move stove 12" from wall....

as for the chimney, i always recomend to keep the pipe inside the building envelope as much as possible


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## jay_blu (Feb 8, 2013)

I really dont have too good of a place to put it down stairs unless I take out my old brick chimney and move the air handler under the stairs.  Thats why I was thinking of putting in a chase but the upper floor bathroom window is right where I want to put a chase in.  we would like the wood stove to go kinda in that corner of the basement that is in orange.  thanks for the addvice


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## jay_blu (Feb 8, 2013)

Is there any way by code to put a pipe through the one foot I have between the wall and tnis window.  Maybe run class a in then  a class a elbow to an adapter then too a double wall stove pipe?


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## Carissa (Nov 24, 2013)

So I have the same stove and installed it over the summer this is our first season and so far we think we're happy with it. Has taken some getting used to especially since before this all we had was electric heat. Any how I'm curious how your install went...and is that a glass door on yours??  I used selkirk DSP stove pipe inside and put a selkirk damper directly over the stove


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