# Expeditided Wood drying / Solar Kiln



## RobertNH (Sep 25, 2014)

With this year being poor for opportunity and excess, I ended up buying 2 cords of 'Green'.
I've been researching methods of expediting the drying process and found a few interesting ideas/ processes.
I also see it's bee talked about before here, but I don't see any listed results.
So, if you have done something on these lines, I'd love to hear what you've done and how well (or not) it worked.

I have 3 experiments running in the yard (ya, I'm serious about expediting drying) right now to see what works or doesn't.
The readings I will state are at full sun and ambient temp in the mid 60'sF

First is the 'Big Black Box'.
I took an old set of pipe staging and an old ladder (for shelves) and created a black plastic box.
The wood is stacked front and rear full, with the middle being open for air movement.
The ends of the middle was also stacked to create what I hoped to be a chimney.
Using 2 of my little solar panels and a computer fan, I set that up in the center to move air.
Since there is no vent at the top, I felt the fan is a must.
I have since added a second sheet of clear plastic, slopped off the unit to create more heat.
Unit reaches 98F in full sun inside.









Second is the least expensive for 'anyone' to do and has been named the S&G Stack.
I thought.. Why not..
This is based on the lean-to cover.
I have since closed the front to the ground and about to close the ends & and add a piece of black plastic on the ground in front of the pile (under the clear) to build more heat.
I'm open in the back by 1/4 of the stack height and will probably keep it that way.
I can read low 90'sF along the face and 130'sF along the top.
This surprised me!



The third has been named the Display Case.
Again using what I have on-hand I decided to build something a little better contained and controlled.
I already see I could be deeper to allow for an area of absorbing material to build up more heat.
The unit is running close to 100F, but will not break that number.
I was hoping it would, so I could fan force air through it and maintain a strong temp.
Back is now closed on this unit and the top glass has been lifted for venting by 1/4".
So far, this is the only unit showing splits and cracks in the wood.



All wood has MC measured, but I don't feel this is best.. I'll also take opinions on this.
Specific pieces in the Display Case have been weighed (thought of this too late..) to better read the loss.

I've shown mine!
I'm open for suggestions!

Show me yours and tell me how and why.


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## bigbarf48 (Sep 25, 2014)

I've not done anything like this, but I anticipate you having trouble with at least the first two designs. Tarping wood like that is the worst thing you can do for the drying process. When it's all sealed up like that, the moisture has nowhere to go when it leaves the wood. I'm betting you'll end up with moldy splits soon


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## RobertNH (Sep 25, 2014)

Appreciate the statement and the reason for the fan in the first (debating a vent at the top). The second I'm still debating closing the ends.. So much air flowing through.. yet adding a sheet in front to increase the heat (colder temps coming) seems correct.. Than again, why I'm posting this. 'Opinions' and what you've done.


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## gzecc (Sep 25, 2014)

I put stacks on wood planks supported on a couple of bricks. Stack them loosely in single rows in the sun for at least 2 yrs. Seems to work good.


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## paul bunion (Sep 25, 2014)

You can get a much better handle of what is going on drying wise if you put the moisture meter on the shelf and get a scale.   Weight loss equals water loss.  If you have splits from the same round in each kiln you will be able to get an real good idea of what's going on.     You will discover that heat is king and so long as you can elevate it above the ambient temp airflow really doesn't matter as much as people think it does.   (Airflow has a much bigger role in bringing BTUs to the wood so water can evaporate than it does to carry away moisture).  

If your wood is green, fresh off the stump then it is way above the range of a moisture meter to begin with.


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## Longstreet (Sep 25, 2014)

Do you have the plans for project 3?  I'd be interested in trying something similar.


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## RobertNH (Sep 26, 2014)

paul bunion said:


> You can get a much better handle of what is going on drying wise if you put the moisture meter on the shelf and get a scale.   Weight loss equals water loss.  If you have splits from the same round in each kiln you will be able to get an real good idea of what's going on.     You will discover that heat is king and so long as you can elevate it above the ambient temp airflow really doesn't matter as much as people think it does.   (Airflow has a much bigger role in bringing BTUs to the wood so water can evaporate than it does to carry away moisture).
> 
> If your wood is green, fresh off the stump then it is way above the range of a moisture meter to begin with.



I have an MC/Temp gauge in the Display Case and just picked up a scale.
I have recorded key pieces in the Display Case and will be doing what you ask this weekend in the others.
Comparison is key and I agree, weight is important.

BigBarf48 makes an important point of not making 'moldy splits'.
Correct me please, but if I have lower MC readings and no change in weight, then I tend to think it may be doing what BigBarf48 warns of.
Opinions please.


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## RobertNH (Sep 26, 2014)

Longstreet said:


> Do you have the plans for project 3?  I'd be interested in trying something similar.



Once I work out the final bugs, I will post one.
Basically it comes from this site (which if you look at the last one, links back here!).
http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/WoodDrying/wood_kiln.htm

I will say right now, that I wish I had gone deeper (longer slope on the front).
Adding a forward stage to build up more heat.
Which I may still do...


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## BruceNorEast (Sep 26, 2014)

Hi Robert, welcome.

I had a similar line of thought, but didn't actuall do anything yet. Thank you for posting your thoughts and sharing the results of your efforts!

I believe there's a thread here on greenhouses, one guy put a fan on one end, controlled by temperature. Another reported that he had success building a greenhouse that had a slight angle, so the warm moist air would rise and eventually exit the higher-open end.

Most appear to have positive results.

In my case, I received six cord of mixed hardwood that was supposed to be seasoned, but was actually stored in a horizontal concrete silo, no cover, just piled up deep. So only the wood from the upper parts had reasonable MC levels. Some of the oak from lower levels looked like it had been stored in a lake after I resplit it 

Because of the quantity, I ended up just resplitting everything and stacking to get full sun and wind - as most seem to do. I just recently covered the tops only, with about 20" to 24" wide strips of plastic (slightly overhangs the 16" splits, stacked one row deep), to reduce rain water infiltrating from the tops. Was surprised to see the sides not getting as wet as expected, seems the storms so far have been fairly gentle (without strong horizontal winds).

My current plans are to build a wood shed, maybe next year, and to use clear roofing, with gaps in the walls for airflow. But the wife did mention she'd like a greenhouse, maybe a combo woodshed greenhouse is in order 

Good luck and please keep us posted.


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## paul bunion (Sep 26, 2014)

RobertNH said:


> I have an MC/Temp gauge in the Display Case and just picked up a scale.
> I have recorded key pieces in the Display Case and will be doing what you ask this weekend in the others.
> Comparison is key and I agree, weight is important.
> 
> ...


 
It will be rather impossible for your splits to lose in the moisture content readings while not dropping in weight.  If that were to happen then something would need to be turning the water and some carbon into some sort of carbon based molecule so that the mass remained constant.   I don't see any leaves on your splits that are photosynthesizing.  You would be doing quite well for yourself if you could increase the mass of your (dry) wood while decreasing the water content.


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## trguitar (Sep 26, 2014)

Take a look at this from Cornell:

http://www2.dnr.cornell.edu/ext/info/pubs/Harvesting/CC Accelerated Seasoning of Firewood.pdf


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## RobertNH (Sep 26, 2014)

trguitar said:


> Take a look at this from Cornell:
> 
> http://www2.dnr.cornell.edu/ext/info/pubs/Harvesting/CC Accelerated Seasoning of Firewood.pdf



I've seen this..
This is one basis' of design of the Display Case.
Thank you! I couldn't find the link here at work...

A very simple design!


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## RobertNH (Sep 26, 2014)

I happened to have plywood, a few 2x4's and glass around here, so built it a little stronger and believe the glass will work better.
Also, with the glass top I was able to lift the back edge as a vent (so far liking this).
I did dis-agree with the air inlet in the front.. Felt it would release too much heat.. JMHO.

Much too simple an idea not to try and built they're way, very inexpensive.
This is what lead to the S&G stack (pic #2) and why it is done this way.

Today was a b-u-tiful Day! Low 70'sF, full sun and temps reaching 120F in the Display Case!
Next 2 are supposed to be the same and Sunday I open up and take some readings.


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## RobertNH (Sep 26, 2014)

BruceNorEast said:


> Hi Robert, welcome.
> 
> I had a similar line of thought, but didn't actuall do anything yet. Thank you for posting your thoughts and sharing the results of your efforts!
> 
> ...



I really hoping those folks you speak of 'chime in' here!
I hoping for those that have, to post up and talk about it.

When I bought the 12'x12' round top garage (Cover-it style), I debated a greenhouse cover vs. the dark green I went for.
Back then I needed a barn type structure to store items and the cost for the unit was the cost of materials for me to build.
Easy to put up, no maintenance and not taxed on it because it's not a permanent structure!
I call that a Win/Win!
You might think of one as you decide your shed.
I now have 2.. The 12x12 holds my dry wood, the 12x20 holds my yard goodies.  
Now I'm thinking about it... LOL


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## Silenced38 (Sep 26, 2014)

I have a Woodlot magazine. It say to single stack wood close to a fence. About a foot away. Then cover the stack with plastic sheeting and let it drape over the fence. It works like a green house. If i remember correct the plastic didnt go all the way to the ground. Prolly to allow some air flow. But i havent tried it.


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## RobertNH (Sep 26, 2014)

Silenced38 said:


> I have a Woodlot magazine. It say to single stack wood close to a fence. About a foot away. Then cover the stack with plastic sheeting and let it drape over the fence. It works like a green house. If i remember correct the plastic didnt go all the way to the ground. Prolly to allow some air flow. But i havent tried it.



This works on the concept of the S&G stack (pic #2) I have running. Open bottom allows more air, but heat becomes the question. I closed the bottom to allow more heat to build up. Open ends and open back gives plenty of air to pass. Back side is ambient temperature of this stack. Front side, today, hit over 90F with the top hitting 120F. Back side is still ambient temp.. 68F. Full sun, great Day to experiment! 

Yes,, it does work as a 'greenhouse'.
And it is better than a basic cover.
I just believe, if you're going to, there may be a simple, better way.
You've seen one!
I'm testing it.
Now let's test it and see what it does.

Thank you for your opinion!


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## Hoozie (Sep 26, 2014)

Since you're going to weight some pieces that are in the houses, I'd recommend weighing a few more and putting them outside, but near, each house.  Then we can see if there's any difference between outside and the various insides.


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## RobertNH (Sep 27, 2014)

Hoozie said:


> Since you're going to weight some pieces that are in the houses, I'd recommend weighing a few more and putting them outside, but near, each house.  Then we can see if there's any difference between outside and the various insides.



Your on! I shall.


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## paul bunion (Sep 27, 2014)

RobertNH said:


> Your on! I shall.


 
Your drying houses are really doing two things, protection from the elements and heat elevation.  Depending on the ratio between sunny and rainy days a significant amount of the effectiveness of the drying houses can be found in protection from rain alone (vs.uncovered/unprotected wood).  Pay attention to the effect of rain on the control pieces.  If they are uncovered and get rained upon you might begin to think that your scale is broken before you realize what is going on.   So you might consider two controls.   One with pieces uncovered and one covered with something like an old window so they get the sun but no rain.


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## RobertNH (Sep 27, 2014)

Opinions please.

What I'm seeing is a moisture build-up over-night in the Display Case.
It burns off pretty quickly once the sun hits it, but I'm concerned.

My thought goes towards grabbing one of my spare batteries, extra solar panel and a computer fan to run over-night.

Your thoughts are welcomed.


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## RobertNH (Sep 27, 2014)

paul bunion said:


> Your drying houses are really doing two things, protection from the elements and heat elevation.  Depending on the ratio between sunny and rainy days a significant amount of the effectiveness of the drying houses can be found in protection from rain alone (vs.uncovered/unprotected wood).  Pay attention to the effect of rain on the control pieces.  If they are uncovered and get rained upon you might begin to think that your scale is broken before you realize what is going on.   So you might consider two controls.   One with pieces uncovered and one covered with something like an old window so they get the sun but no rain.



I have a covered control stack, yet really like having it next to the units!
Great idea!
The S&G stack is right next to the Display Case and thought of that as a control between contained or not, but it doesn't give me what you suggest, an open stack.
It's going right between the two!

I'm also looking forward to testing using a DMM to read resistance and compare against my MC reader.
This site is full of great info!
Here's the link to a great article (and some charts) another thread here lead me to:
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr06.pdf


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## RobertNH (Sep 27, 2014)

Pic #1, The Big Black Box, has had a slight make-over.





The addition of the second clear cover!
This makes a 1st stage of heat collection.
Since, by the time I get home the sun is off the unit, I haven't been able to take readings since last weekend.
Highest before was 98F at the vent.
Now it's 115F at the vent.
Difference in ambient temperature between these to readings is only 2 degrees.
The first stage makes a difference!

Tomorrow's readings of all units will help me decide direction to follow.
Not necessarily which unit..
More to come!


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## RobertNH (Sep 27, 2014)

Tomorrow will be very busy, so I did some readings today..
From the Display Case:
                                      Lbs            Oz's            Total ounces
Enter previous weight 6 2 98
Enter current weight 5 13 93
95%  of weight
5.10% loss Over days 3 1.70% daily
Enter previous weight 8 4 132
Enter current weight 8 2 130
98%  of weight
1.52% loss Over days 3 0.51% daily

First is from second tier in the stack
Second is from second from the bottom

2 days of sun, 1 over-cast and rainy.
1 being extremely great, 1 being typical sun.
6hrs of exposure to sun
Larger piece lower (as shown above in order of height in the stack)

I am very happy with the .51%, that was the goal!
Next load is small low and bigger high
Let those chunker's get the heat

If this maintains, only time will tell. it puts me to my goal of green to burnable in 1 month.

Next true reading next weekend.


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## paul bunion (Sep 27, 2014)

RobertNH said:


> If this maintains, only time will tell. it puts me to my goal of green to burnable in 1 month.
> Next true reading next weekend.


 
It gets real a lot slower as it gets drier.

Are those LB/OZ/Fraction of an OZ?

If your scale does grams I suggest you do so, its a little easier to interpret.


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## paul bunion (Sep 27, 2014)

If that's fresh from the stump green wood it isn't unreasonable to see a 33% loss in weight.  (That would be wood going from 80% to 20%)


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## RobertNH (Sep 28, 2014)

paul bunion said:


> It gets real a lot slower as it gets drier.
> 
> Are those LB/OZ/Fraction of an OZ?
> 
> If your scale does grams I suggest you do so, its a little easier to interpret.



I'll do a screen print next time.
LB / OZ    Total ounces

I agree with the statement.
I figure it dries on a curve, not linear.
The goal is a .5% average.
From what I've read, seems reasonable.

Control pile reads 30% (resistance of .15, chart doesn't go that far)
Logs tested are at 22% (they've been in there 7 days).
MC test is now done with DMM and compensation of temperature.


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## heatwise (Sep 28, 2014)

I like all 3, my reserve stack is like the first you show . It's up off the ground  about  18"  and it's also like your #2 with the plastic  open at the ends. It's great to see the # 3 kiln.i think  It's important to keep the plastic away from the wood so condensation formed can either roll down or evaporate away. I have a tent for winter camping that has 2 small roof vents to allow moisture to escape, this tent was one of my best purchases and reading the manual for it taught me about moisture build up . So applying the venting at the top was because of the tent info and also because the stack is between 2 posts and couldn't be completely covered.


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## RobertNH (Sep 28, 2014)

Just finished up my weekend readings.
The Big Black Box is averaging 25% 
The S&G Stack is running 25% (high in the stack) to 32% (low in  the stack
I have now weighed control pieces in both of these, so better numbers coming next week.

Two weeks into the BBB & the S&G
One week with the Display Case


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## RobertNH (Sep 28, 2014)

Thank you Heatwise for joining in!
I saw what you did on the other thread and have been curious how it worked out.

The open cover (now pinned to the ground on the front) has reached highs of 130F plus along the top (typical is 115F +-), but ambient temperature at the open back.
Surprised how well it's doing!
Just too simple a concept not to try!


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## RobertNH (Sep 30, 2014)

It's going to be a tough week for drying..
Forecast shows mostly damp weather all week..
Figure I have 54hrs of good drying this week..
30 odd percent..

Question becomes to add the fan to the Display Case (solar kiln)?
Hurt or help?

My assumption, at this point in time, is the surfaces are drying nicely and probably some intermediate areas, due to the splits and cracks I see.
Interior I will not know until I reach a point of what I consider 'done' and split it and test.

I'm thinking to add the fan and create air movement.
I have a low speed fan (change air 6 times in 24hrs) I'm about to add..

Opinions??


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## barnuba (Oct 2, 2014)

Great ideas here!  Do you have the S&G stack in full sun all day or at least 80% of the day?  This is what I attribute to making my kiln work.


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## RobertNH (Oct 3, 2014)

barnuba said:


> Great ideas here!  Do you have the S&G stack in full sun all day or at least 80% of the day?  This is what I attribute to making my kiln work.



Both the S&G and the Display Case are at least 80% sun
The Big Black Box is 70%

Care to post up a pic of your Kiln?
Would love to see it!

So, let me ask, since you have on running:
Are you fan run?
Are your Solar heated?
How big did you go?
And would love to hear the results your getting!


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## RobertNH (Oct 3, 2014)

This is what I hoped for.. Questions that tell me what else I need to put into the equations.
You guys are testing me on my test... I'm loving it!

Great Sun day today.. finally..
Tomorrow is recording day and with all the dank, dark days this week, this should be interesting.


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## Silenced38 (Oct 3, 2014)

Here what im thinking of tring. I built this as a green house. It scavenged sliding glas doors. I should be able to put a 1/3 cord in it.


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## paul bunion (Oct 3, 2014)

RobertNH said:


> This is what I hoped for.. Questions that tell me what else I need to put into the equations.
> You guys are testing me on my test... I'm loving it!
> 
> Great Sun day today.. finally..
> Tomorrow is recording day and with all the dank, dark days this week, this should be interesting.



I'll make a prediction.    I will assume your weather was like it was here in the very north of NJ.  I'm only 20 miles or so from CT.

If you are weighing in grams you will probably find that your pieces are a couple grams lighter right now.  Their surface became very dry today so they will easily soak up some humidity tonight.  They will be  about 10-15 grams heavier tomorrow with their nightly followed by a rainy day with no drying and probably some more uptake.  Weighing in Oz you might see no difference.  If your wood was still very green you will measure some drying progress.  The uncovered pieces will be 2-500  grams (up to a pound) heavier if it rains.  That will depend on species and their size.


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## RobertNH (Oct 4, 2014)

Silenced38 said:


> View attachment 140188
> 
> 
> 
> ...



That's awesome!
The design is in line with the Virginian design I've read about.
Plus, is the extra space up front.
The designs I like use this space as a first stage of heating keeping the wood towards the rear.
One uses the floor (and dark material) to build up more heat..
The second uses (best I can Tell) a dark outdoor privacy screen hung vertically just past the glass.. 

Both of these units (as I understand) are used to dry 'furniture grade' material so they have fans to control the heat/air mix.

If you go for it, please do some recording of readings and pass them along!


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## RobertNH (Oct 4, 2014)

paul bunion said:


> I'll make a prediction.    I will assume your weather was like it was here in the very north of NJ.  I'm only 20 miles or so from CT.
> 
> If you are weighing in grams you will probably find that your pieces are a couple grams lighter right now.  Their surface became very dry today so they will easily soak up some humidity tonight.  They will be  about 10-15 grams heavier tomorrow with their nightly followed by a rainy day with no drying and probably some more uptake.  Weighing in Oz you might see no difference.  If your wood was still very green you will measure some drying progress.  The uncovered pieces will be 2-500  grams (up to a pound) heavier if it rains.  That will depend on species and their size.



You are going to get me to buy a gram scale.. aren't you.. LOL!
I'll see what I can find..


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## RobertNH (Oct 5, 2014)

Okay Paul.. I'll just ask you from now on.. LOL.
You got that one right!
Another drizzly day and readings were only 2ozs lighter through-out all.

Today (Sunday) will be bright and dry!
Much needed..

And I did find a gram scale!
All readings from here on in will be in grams.


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## RobertNH (Oct 6, 2014)

I may start another thread on this if I don't get responses.

I believe, right now, the only true way of knowing MC content is by weight.

If you have a 'known' at 50% moisture
And you have a 'known' at 20% moisture
I do believe you can have a 'known' at any weight

If I had a 'known' at 35% (or several points between), I believe I could create a formula (the curve)

If you know of someone, a link of someone, a belief of someone, that has done this..
Please send it my way

Outside of that,
Opinions and suggestions are welcomed.


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## paul bunion (Oct 6, 2014)

RobertNH said:


> I may start another thread on this if I don't get responses.
> 
> I believe, right now, the only true way of knowing MC content is by weight.
> 
> ...


All you need is a known moisture content and weight and then you can calculate either moisture or weight from any other value.   Real easy.

Take the weight and divide it by 100+ your moisture pct.  That will give you what one percentage point weighs in your particular piece of wood.  Then with the same piece at a different weight divide it by the one pct number.  The quotient will be 100+the current pct.

Example.

Wood at 20% weighs 4500 grams.   4500/120=37.5.     Every pct point of water is 37.5 grams.  The piece started at 6750 grams.   6750/37.5=180.   The piece of wood started at 80%.   (Now you know why I harped on using grams).

By knowing the moisture and weight of one piece in a round you can figure any of its sister pieces providing you weighed them all on the same starting day and assuming the moisture is uniform within the round. And bark/heartwood/sapwood differences taken into consideration.

Your graph won't be a curve, it is linear.  Remember % moisture is expressed as the water weight compared to the dry wood weight.  The dry wood weight never changes.  You always have 100% of your wood, that is the 100 in my calculations above.


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## RobertNH (Oct 7, 2014)

That's almost too simple.. LOL
But you've been right on several items so far!

Question: When you base your weight, it's on what? A known piece of wood, Known per (?)?
If it's a known piece.. then how did you know?
I ask not to confront, but to understand..

I just read an article of base conditions of areas in the US that wood can dry to.
Very interesting read.
Given certain conditions, my area (which seems to involve you as well) can dry wood to 11% naturally.
I didn't know that. 
Now I'm curious how long it took...


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## Razo (Oct 8, 2014)

I haven't experimented with a tarps, plastic, or cases but here is my experience.

I CSS a living red maple and black cherry tree on aug 18.




Stacked it single row in a spot on my property that gets full morning and some afternoon sun. It is fairly breezy where I live. Both woods pegged my moisture meter upon splitting.







Checked the cherry 36 days later, took some splits, split them again to get a freshly exposed side, and buried the probes of my MM into them. 20-22% moisture content – after 36 days.



The red maple was down to 25% after 42 days. I’ll echo what someone else said, it loses a lot of moisture quick, and then exponentially slows down the lower the MC goes. So my cherry is very burnable at 20%MC, however if I wait longer I can get the MC down below that. Good if you are in a pinch though.


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## RobertNH (Oct 9, 2014)

Thank you Razo!
Good solid info.


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## solarguy2003 (Oct 11, 2014)

Excellent idea.  Here's my idea/thread where I built a 12.5' x 28' hoop house/greenhouse to do exactly this.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...to-store-and-dry-wood-working-awesome.129149/

All the juicy pictures and cost breakdown are on page 2.

Summary:  Worked great.  Probably important to seal the floor/ground to prevent moisture from migrating into the enclosure.

I put a cheap box fan on a thermostat to come on at 90-95F, to guarantee that every time the fan went on, it would be removing hot humid air.

Some wood that I put in there came from my 1+ year old stash, which was piled and tarped, with the tarp suspended above the pile.  That wood measured 14-15% when I put it in the greenhouse.  A few sunny weeks later, it (the same exact marked test pieces) measured 0-3% moisture.

The new green wood dropped from high 40's % moisture, to middle 20's % moisture, as measured with a cheap ebay 4 prong moisture meter.  I have also compared the results of the moisture meter with a few pieces that I verified, using the weigh, bake, weigh method, which is pretty accurate, if tedious.  The meter was surprisingly accurate.


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## RobertNH (Oct 12, 2014)

solarguy2003 said:


> Excellent idea.  Here's my idea/thread where I built a 12.5' x 28' hoop house/greenhouse to do exactly this.
> 
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...to-store-and-dry-wood-working-awesome.129149/
> 
> ...



Welcome Solarguy to 'my' experiment!
I appreciate those that have done inputting their experience!

I will read through your thread and see what you have done.
I've only glanced so far and see there's some interesting info there!

I've learned a lot from this experiment.
But nothing is greater than first hand experience.
Again 'Thank You' for chiming in.

I am convinced, right now, that weight is an extremely important part.
MC or DMM with temp and species is still a 'surface' reading.
Weight and using MC (surface), equating for size, will put you very close to reality.

I've moved my first load from the Solar Kiln and re-stacked today.
Surface readings at 18%
Weight at 20%
3 weeks of 66% good weather
Started before I could read beyond 32% (now can go beyond)

Static pile is at 40% (original wood)


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## paul bunion (Oct 12, 2014)

RobertNH said:


> Welcome Solarguy to 'my' experiment!
> I appreciate those that have done inputting their experience!
> 
> I will read through your thread and see what you have done.
> ...



What do you mean by weight at 20%?   If that's the amount of weight lost it would be pretty impressive.


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## RobertNH (Oct 13, 2014)

paul bunion said:


> What do you mean by weight at 20%?   If that's the amount of weight lost it would be pretty impressive.



Weight of wood and 20% moisture content in the piece itself.
Since the surface reading is 18% (MC), and the weight reading is 20%, I can be 'fairly certain' the piece is no greater than 20%.

With the 'static' pile being 40% (after 3 weeks), I can say I've lost 20% moisture over 3 weeks (again, with a fair amount of certainty).
The issue for me, is I do not really know what the start content was.
When I started this experiment, I could not read above 32% with any certainty.


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## RobertNH (Oct 13, 2014)

The file is up for anyone that wishes to use or examine.
I would like 'those that know' to examine and add what is there and correct.
I do believe it to be solid on information collected.

PM me and I will give you the link.
Once administration believes it to be 'solid', then show me how to post it for all.


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## RobertNH (Feb 6, 2016)

Update going into season 2.

The Solar Kiln is still the best drier I have.
Though small (face cord only), it works great!

This year plenty of free grabs of fresh cuts to be had and actually had to stop. Good problem to have!

The Big Box unit is gone. Just didn't cut it..
The S&G covered has become the secondary drying as it leaves the Kiln.
I've re-worked the cover from the original design and still working on that a bit. 
Need to learn how to weld plastic to make a good cover.

Temps in it are 10-15% less than the Kiln, but still, today 30F outside and the temp inside is 50F.
The Kiln approaching 60F

I love how this experiment went. Learned a lot from it, through trial & error, but mainly from your all input!

Thanx Folks!


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## Poindexter (Feb 6, 2016)

I have read this thread quite a few times and did find your data useful to me in my own kiln build.  I am running 8-10 cords annually though, so I had to go bigger.  I did especially appreciate seeing all your designs worked, that was a good indicator that whatever I came up with was probably going to be better than not doing anything.


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## Babaganoosh (Feb 7, 2016)

I found the most bang for the buck is just shrink wrapping the wood. Its not perfect but it works very well. I had a stack get up to 165 degrees this past summer.

It only takes  a few minutes per stack and the cost is negligible. I'm really not going to invest more time and money than that. Defeats the purpose of burning wood to save money.


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## Firefighter938 (Feb 7, 2016)

Babaganoosh said:


> I found the most bang for the buck is just shrink wrapping the wood. Its not perfect but it works very well. I had a stack get up to 165 degrees this past summer.
> 
> It only takes  a few minutes per stack and the cost is negligible. I'm really not going to invest more time and money than that. Defeats the purpose of burning wood to save money.



What type of shrink wrap do you use? How far down the stack do you wrap? To the ground or do you leave several inches for moisture to escape?


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## Babaganoosh (Feb 7, 2016)

Firefighter938 said:


> What type of shrink wrap do you use? How far down the stack do you wrap? To the ground or do you leave several inches for moisture to escape?



My wood is up off the ground so I wrap as far as I can and leave the bottom open. I've seen people that close off the bottom and add a few holes to let the condensate out. Apparently  that keeps more heat in. With the bottom open I still hit 165 in the summer. I've messed with putting 2 small holes near the top to vent humid air and it does lower the temperature a bit. I'm not sure it makes much difference overall either way.

I don't know the particulars on the wrap because I've gotten it for free but I'm sure whatever wrap they have at home depot or lowes will work. I have  wrapped single stack rows and 2 pallets with the wrap. If you want to do the top easily on a stack that's  wide like a pallet I'd get some plastic at home depot and cut it to hang over the sides a bit and then start wrapping the sides. You can do the top with shrink wrap but you lose a lot trying to keep going back and forth to cover the  surface.

I'm sure there are many  methods  that work a little better, but like I said, in my opinion  this method  yields the most benefit with the smallest amount of time and money.


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## Oldman47 (Feb 7, 2016)

If you want a vent, try the UK approach of a green house where they slope the top of the stack/greenhouse slightly toward one end and just leave a small vent opening at the high end. By sloping the peak upwards all of the hot moist air vents at a single location and more of the top can be left enclosed to build even more heat. Most of the threads I have read, here and elsewhere, showed much better results with clear plastic than with black plastic because we are not trying to heat the air, we want to heat the wood itself and you mostly heat the air with black plastic. Unless you use UV stable plastic, like green house plastic, you will be replacing it at least annually if not sooner.


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Feb 11, 2016)

RobertNH said:


> Update going into season 2.
> 
> The Solar Kiln is still the best drier I have.
> Though small (face cord only), it works great!
> ...


Well done, Robert.  You came up with and tried three designs, all good ideas, and discovered which ones worked best, applying some scientific method, and shared it with the interested community.  Smart and effective.  I enjoyed reading about your work.


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## RobertNH (Feb 11, 2016)

Oldman47 said:


> If you want a vent, try the UK approach of a green house where they slope the top of the stack/greenhouse slightly toward one end and just leave a small vent opening at the high end. By sloping the peak upwards all of the hot moist air vents at a single location and more of the top can be left enclosed to build even more heat. Most of the threads I have read, here and elsewhere, showed much better results with clear plastic than with black plastic because we are not trying to heat the air, we want to heat the wood itself and you mostly heat the air with black plastic. Unless you use UV stable plastic, like green house plastic, you will be replacing it at least annually if not sooner.



There's a guy I was communicating with that curved the ridge towards both ends. A bend in the ridge. I agree, venting at the top is key, inlet at the bottom and balancing the two to draft well.

Thank you for you input!


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## RobertNH (Feb 11, 2016)

ED 3000 said:


> Well done, Robert.  You came up with and tried three designs, all good ideas, and discovered which ones worked best, applying some scientific method, and shared it with the interested community.  Smart and effective.  I enjoyed reading about your work.



Thank you! I took a lot of advise from here as to what they really wanted to see in this experiment.


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## RobertNH (Feb 28, 2016)

I finally sat down to Sketchup to learn how to use it.
Thank God for the Engineering Toolbox!
What a Plugin!

Anyone familiar with Sketchup and knows of a Plastic sheathing module, please refer me to it.
Well, that and how to share the design here..

I've drawn the concept of what I'm going to construct as my kiln.
Basically, it follows my S&G cover with a few adaptations of the kiln I made.
The goal was to have something anyone can build for short money and not have it a permanent structure.
Something you'd (me), would be taxed on.

I also want something I can load and leave.
Moving wood into and out of the kiln was a real pain!

We all must cover our wood.
Why not do it efficiently and expedite the drying process.
Besides, not all of us have acreage to put several stacks for years on end.

Again, if anyone here has knowledge in Sketchup, please contact me.
I'd like to finish this and share it.


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## Oldman47 (Mar 2, 2016)

RobertNH said:


> Anyone familiar with Sketchup and knows of a Plastic sheathing module, please refer me to it.
> Well, that and how to share the design here..


If you just want to share a design with other folks who have a drawing program, check to see if you can save the file as a DWG or convert the finished file to a DWG. Most drafting software can import DWG files. If you want to just display a static picture, try using the BMP file format that windows uses. Worst case, print out your picture on a sheet of paper and take a good quality picture of the printout and publish the picture as a JPG.

I just went on line to find sketchup and it seems it can export files as JPG or BMP so sharing should be easy. Just store a JPG copy on line anywhere and refer to its IMG location from a post. If you store a JPG on Photobucket the photobucket software will automatically give you a reference in the IMG reference that you can use. Only the PRO level of sketchup supports a DWG export so unless you paid for PRO I doubt you can use that function.


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## RobertNH (Mar 2, 2016)

Thank you. A good friend gave me a great DVD on Sketchup that shows how to share in several different ways.
Shortly, you guys will see something from me.
The DVD shows me how to explode it into parts which is really cool!
That I'm learning.

Thank you for your input!


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## RobertNH (Mar 5, 2016)

Let's try this
First view the basic over-view


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## RobertNH (Mar 5, 2016)

Okay, that was weird..
I'll work on this.

The second picture should have been first, but what the hey.. First attempt.

The length of the unit is determined by the glass you have.
Trying real hard to get to at least a Face Cord to fit inside.
I came very close.

The gap at the top should be about 1/4 of the spacing at the bottom or less.
I'll let the HVAC folks talk about proper inlet to outlet to induce flow of air.
I have spacers on the back side to adjust the gap.
I like this! During the Summer/Fall season it came be larger.
Now, in Winter, I can reduce it and allow a bit more heat to build up.

I have a plastic ground cover (actually hard black plastic sheet) to avoid the moisture draw.
The gap at the bottom is high due to I have grass that grows around it and have to compensate for it.
All the wood is stacked on cut-down pallets to fit the unit.
This not only keeps it off the ground cover, but allows for air flow.

The principles here are basic ones.
The Sun must touch the wood.
The spacing around the wood must be limited.
Air must flow.

Have fun in trying new ideas.
Mine is not new, just worked from others that have tried before.
This one works very well for me!

The next is the PVC Hoop Cover.
A version of the S&G cover that surprised me on how well it does.


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## RobertNH (Mar 5, 2016)

I'm still working on the drawing, but this gives you an idea of what I'm doing.
With a simple Plastic Sheet covering that would roll up in the front, you have your stack and a way to get the wood without loading and moving the wood from the Kiln (shown before).
Again based upon the basic principles of single stack, sun touching the wood, and air movement.

I have a rough version running now in my yard.
Of course a ground cover and stacked on cut-down pallets.
I'm amazed on how well it does.


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## RobertNH (Mar 5, 2016)

Oldman47 said:


> If you just want to share a design with other folks who have a drawing program, check to see if you can save the file as a DWG or convert the finished file to a DWG. Most drafting software can import DWG files. If you want to just display a static picture, try using the BMP file format that windows uses. Worst case, print out your picture on a sheet of paper and take a good quality picture of the printout and publish the picture as a JPG.
> 
> I just went on line to find sketchup and it seems it can export files as JPG or BMP so sharing should be easy. Just store a JPG copy on line anywhere and refer to its IMG location from a post. If you store a JPG on Photobucket the photobucket software will automatically give you a reference in the IMG reference that you can use. Only the PRO level of sketchup supports a DWG export so unless you paid for PRO I doubt you can use that function.



Problem I'm finding is not being able to upload a file to this site.
Guess I have to put it on the 'Cloud' and give access?
Is that possible?
Haven't gone there before... But I'm willin'!!


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## Nosetotail (Mar 5, 2016)

BruceNorEast said:


> My current plans are to build a wood shed, maybe next year, and to use clear roofing, with gaps in the walls for airflow. But the wife did mention she'd like a greenhouse, maybe a combo woodshed greenhouse is in order
> 
> Good luck and please keep us posted.



That would be like having a combo scrapbooking room/man cave.


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## Oldman47 (Mar 7, 2016)

If you want to link to a picture in BMP format just upload it to Photobucket then use the IMG link they provide to show it here. This is a picture of my chainsaw in JPG format that I have stored on Photobucket. I use a line feed/return stroke before I paste in the link so the picture will align to the left.


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