# Recommend me a STIHL Saw



## clr8ter (Apr 21, 2014)

Looking to upgrade my saw. I currently have an Echo CS400. I'd like to go from the 400's 40CC, to a minimum of 50CC. I'm ONLY interested in a Stihl. I burn about 4 cord a year, I have cut around 20 cords in the last 5 years, I also use the saw to cut trees on my 3 acres. Recently, I have been cutting some 14-18" dia pines, and in the past, I've wanted to cut 20"+ oak and maple logs. The saw is not quite up to the task. 

So, which Stihl would you guys recommend?


----------



## Jags (Apr 21, 2014)

MS 362.  Get an 18" bar and one 24/25" bar.  Use Stihl RS chain and thank me later.


----------



## clr8ter (Apr 21, 2014)

Uh, my apologies. I did not mention price is an issue. $700 is a bit much. Although, I agree with you, nice saw. Also, good idea on the dual bar thing. For some reason, I had not thought of that. FWIW, I expect to get $200, MAYBE, for my saw. It's in nice shape.


----------



## Jags (Apr 21, 2014)

So what is your price point?


----------



## Clyde S. Dale (Apr 21, 2014)

Jags said:


> So what is your price point?


 
+1. We can't help with a recommendation without a budget. I agree with Jags - an MS362 will definitely do what you've mentioned you want to do. You'll also be able to do all that with an MS261 but it will just take you longer.


----------



## kingquad (Apr 21, 2014)

There's a really clean 036pro over on AS right now for $350 plus shipping and another woods ported 036pro for $400 but seller is willing to deal.

You could also contact Dexter Day on this forum or AS.  He seems to keep a few of these in his stable and occasionally parts with them if the price is right.


----------



## clr8ter (Apr 21, 2014)

Well, 400 is about my budget...


----------



## kingquad (Apr 21, 2014)

clr8ter said:


> Well, 400 is about my budget...


in your case, you would probably be best served with a 60cc saw.  You can't afford new, so you're going to be stuck buying used.  If you're only buying used, then I would opt for pro grade construction.  Your options are limited since you only want Stihl.  They are
036 or 036pro
ms360
ms361(not happening because it is a ridiculously awesome saw)
ms362(not happening because it's a newer model Stihl)

At $400, you might catch an 044 or ms440 on CL, but it's very unlikely as they are very highly regarded/sought after.  There are probably some more options (I'm not really familiar with the Stihl lineup), but I buy all my saws used and you will usually get more for you're money in the used market buying Husky's.

With your budget/needs, you will be restricted to the used market.  You have a 40cc saw, so don't buy a 50cc.  I would muffler mod/retune the Echo to get a little more performance out of it in the meantime, and start looking for a 60cc+ Stihl.  If you're handy, you might be able to get one with a lightly scored cylinder on the cheap, and then rebuild it.


----------



## clr8ter (Apr 21, 2014)

Interesting. I keep hearing about the Muffler Mod. Could you explain, as it relates to the 40cc Echo? On the used saws, I don't know. I am handy, but, getting finicky 2 strokes to run right isn't my strong suit. Also, I am looking to keep weight down. I can't really lug around a hugely heavy saw. If that becomes the case, I'll have to just limit what I buy in cc's to conform to the weight issue. That and cost is why I specified 500 originally. 

But, how about this. In YHO,  how much money (and which one) would it take to buy a new Stihl that will meet my needs?


----------



## Kevin Dolan (Apr 21, 2014)

clr8ter said:


> Interesting. I keep hearing about the Muffler Mod. Could you explain, as it relates to the 40cc Echo? On the used saws, I don't know. I am handy, but, getting finicky 2 strokes to run right isn't my strong suit. Also, I am looking to keep weight down. I can't really lug around a hugely heavy saw. If that becomes the case, I'll have to just limit what I buy in cc's to conform to the weight issue. That and cost is why I specified 500 originally.
> 
> But, how about this. In YHO,  how much money (and which one) would it take to buy a new Stihl that will meet my needs?


IMHO I have a stihl ms 270 and a 16 inch bar it cost $450 cdn three years ago. It is a great saw, I cut 5 bush cords per year, not so much big ugly stuff but the saw cuts it all. It is a great saw and easy to maintain , price for these saws seems to be around that 4-500 dollar mark. Don't go cheap or you will regret it as I did with some Poulans, growl growl .
Good luck


----------



## Jags (Apr 21, 2014)

Remember folks - the OP already has a 40cc saw and is looking for an upgrade in power.

My personal opinion is that with a 40cc not cutting it (pun intended), the next step should have a noticeable improvement.  50cc is basically one step above, going with a ~60cc saw would catch your attention.  It can be argued till the cows come home, but my opinion is that a 60cc saw is probably the best combo of size/weight for average firewood purposes if a one saw plan is used. An 18" bar for light saber action in the typical woods and the ability to run a bigger bar on that occasion you need it.

I also understand that if the funds don't allow...the funds don't allow.  Maybe consider running the Echo for a bit longer and stuffing the piggy bank with a little more till you can get "that" saw.  In the Stihl market that puts you squarely in the 036 or 36x market (for new). 

The MS 290 is the largest selling saw in Stihls line up, it will pull a 20" bar quite well.  The 311 and 391 don't get my vote because of the power to weight ratio.  The 362 is the smallest saw that will run a 25" bar (if that is a consideration).


----------



## missedbass (Apr 21, 2014)

ms271 with 16" bar. good saw in your price range


----------



## jotul8e2 (Apr 21, 2014)

I have a Stihl 025 (45 cc) that has seen a lot of use on oak and hickory, and with an 18" bar I have cut up some quite large stuff.  But then I found a used MS361.  I had no idea that a world like that was out there.  The MS361 cuts at least 50% faster.  My brother in law found a used MS360, and he is thrilled with it as well.  Knowing what I know now, I would save up, work nights, have a garage sale, or do whatever to get a 60 cc saw.


----------



## Kevin Dolan (Apr 21, 2014)

Jags said:


> Remember folks - the OP already has a 40cc saw and is looking for an upgrade in power.
> 
> My personal opinion is that with a 40cc not cutting it (pun intended), the next step should have a noticeable improvement.  50cc is basically one step above, going with a ~60cc saw would catch your attention.  It can be argued till the cows come home, but my opinion is that a 60cc saw is probably the best combo of size/weight for average firewood purposes if a one saw plan is used. An 18" bar for light saber action in the typical woods and the ability to run a bigger bar on that occasion you need it.
> 
> ...


Jags point taken, always good to read op.


----------



## Clyde S. Dale (Apr 21, 2014)

Kevin Dolan said:


> Jags point taken, always good to read op.



The OP's 2nd post sounded to me like the 40cc saw will be sold...


----------



## Clyde S. Dale (Apr 21, 2014)

kingquad said:


> There's a really clean 036pro over on AS right now for $350 plus shipping and another woods ported 036pro for $400 but seller is willing to deal.
> 
> You could also contact Dexter Day on this forum or AS.  He seems to keep a few of these in his stable and occasionally parts with them if the price is right.



I checked $350 out and it appears the price had dropped. It is in good shape, would suit the OP's needs and fits his budget.


----------



## kingquad (Apr 22, 2014)

clr8ter said:


> Interesting. I keep hearing about the Muffler Mod. Could you explain, as it relates to the 40cc Echo? On the used saws, I don't know. I am handy, but, getting finicky 2 strokes to run right isn't my strong suit. Also, I am looking to keep weight down. I can't really lug around a hugely heavy saw. If that becomes the case, I'll have to just limit what I buy in cc's to conform to the weight issue. That and cost is why I specified 500 originally.
> 
> But, how about this. In YHO,  how much money (and which one) would it take to buy a new Stihl that will meet my needs?


You already own a 40cc saw, which is perfect for limbing.  IMO, it should be a saw that still sees a good bit of use regardless of what you buy.  Because of EPA emissions regs, modern saws are pretty restricted at the muffler.  A muffler mod is simply opening it up or removing the restrictions (ie. baffles) in the muffler to allow better flow.  Power gains from this can be significant.  WARNING: This absolutely requires you to retune the carb.  If not, the saw will run extremely lean and will score the cylinder.  There is plenty of info about this over on AS.

Also, Jags post is spot on.  Personally, I would steer clear of the MS290.  It will get the job done with a 20in bar, but the 036 and ms36x series saws are much better in every way(power, weight, build quality).


----------



## clr8ter (Apr 22, 2014)

OK, let's see. Yes, I was planning on selling the Echo. Can't really afford or justify 2 saws. What is "AS"?


----------



## mstoelton (Apr 22, 2014)

Just wondering why you are limiting to only Stihl?  There are other very high quality saws out there!


----------



## Jags (Apr 22, 2014)

clr8ter said:


> OK, let's see. Yes, I was planning on selling the Echo. Can't really afford or justify 2 saws. What is "AS"?


Arborsite.


----------



## clr8ter (Apr 22, 2014)

Cause I like Stihl. I think Husky and Johnsered is the only other real choices out there. Neither of them float my boat....


----------



## Gareth96 (Apr 22, 2014)

I was kinda in your position recently.. because of everything Jags said, and that you can rebuild a MS362 pro model a lot easier than the farm/ranch models I figured the MS 362 would outlast me.. and it cuts sooooo nice...


----------



## mstoelton (Apr 22, 2014)

Dolmar? Makita?

You can pick up a nice HD rental Dolmar 6400 in Makita colors for about $275.  If you call around to your local HD store Rental Department, they can look up on their computer any stores in your area that may have a saw for sale.

By the way if you have only run an echo 40 cc saw, the Dolmar saws really rip!


----------



## clr8ter (Apr 22, 2014)

A Makita saw from a HD rental dept? You've got to be kidding me. I would go out and buy a Poulan Wild Thing before that. As far as Dolmar, I don't know much about them, other than the fact that I never sees them around here. The other big brands, I can name off one or more dealers within 15 miles of my house. Also, the Stihl dealer is only a few miles away, and is a very established heavy equipment dealer, so they're not going anywhere.


----------



## jatoxico (Apr 22, 2014)

clr8ter said:


> A Makita saw from a HD rental dept? You've got to be kidding me. I would go out and buy a Poulan Wild Thing before that. As far as Dolmar, I don't know much about them, other than the fact that I never sees them around here. The other big brands, I can name off one or more dealers within 15 miles of my house. Also, the Stihl dealer is only a few miles away, and is a very established heavy equipment dealer, so they're not going anywhere.



I see from your sig that you're a Stihl Guy and if, as you said before, you're not good at tuning then I guess you should stick w/ that for the service. But if you would take a Wild Thing over one of those HD Makitas I think you'd be making a mistake.


----------



## clr8ter (Apr 22, 2014)

So does makita make chainsaws better than they make electric construction tools? Because those suck. Around here, they are basically throw away tools, and you cannot get parts for them, so no one uses them here any more. I might be able to come up with one Dolmar dealer in the area, but not for makita, and I've never even SEEN one of their saws.


----------



## Jags (Apr 22, 2014)

The Makita saws in question are a rebranded Dolmar.  The 64xx models are well known and well liked.


----------



## mstoelton (Apr 22, 2014)

I suggest you go rent a Makita (6421) from HD.  They are a professional grade saw Made in Germany by Dolmar.  They normally retail for around $780.00ish.

I purchased one to try it out because of the opinions expressed about them on this forum.  2 weeks later I purchased another.  Put simply they are built to last and they rip.  I have cut 10-12 cord of wood over the last several weeks with them.  Just need to keep the chain sharp and they go. The largest tree we have cut with them is a 36+ inch diameter red oak.  Also Multiple mulberry in the 24-30 inch range.


----------



## jatoxico (Apr 22, 2014)

clr8ter said:


> So does makita make chainsaws better than they make electric construction tools? Because those suck. Around here, they are basically throw away tools, and you cannot get parts for them, so no one uses them here any more. I might be able to come up with one Dolmar dealer in the area, but not for makita, and I've never even SEEN one of their saws.



I think the Makita's 64's go for over $700 new so it's a steep discount. Had a clean one in my hands and almost bit. Thought it was more than I needed but could tell it was no toy.


----------



## mstoelton (Apr 22, 2014)

There are 7 Dolmar dealers in southern New Hampshire mostly clustered around Manchester and Concord.

As suggested above you can go with a Stihl 036, or a ms360 ($450 on ebay).  They make 4.5 hp and they would be a fine saw.  The Dolmar/Makita is ~$275.00 if you can find one.  They make 4.7 hp.

Your money do what you want!


----------



## buggyspapa (Apr 23, 2014)

I second, or third, or fourth, the 036 Pro or Dolkita 6421. Both are great saws, and reasonable used. Keep the Echo for limbing or lending out. Or for the pinched bar sitch. It is arboristsite.com. Join and search. You will find all questions answered that don't appear hear in the chainsaw forum. It's practically a job to keep up.

Renting the Makita is an easy way to try it out. What does your local Ace or True Value rent?

I am not convinced about the 50cc class as useful, especially if weight is a consideration. Search for "two saw plan". After boring hours limbing with the 40cc, the joy of running the 036 in a trunk will make the expense and tedium worthwhile. The one saw plan is, well, (queue the crickets).


----------



## TreePointer (Apr 23, 2014)

IMO the 6401/6421 saws are a little bulky for their power.  When upgraded with a big bore, they certainly are one of the finest saws in the ~80cc displacement class.


----------



## jatoxico (Apr 23, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> *IMO the 6401/6421 saws are a little bulky for their power*.  When upgraded with a big bore, they certainly are one of the finest saws in the ~80cc displacement class.



I am not a saw expert but I also felt the Makita was a bit heavy for its displacement. Gonna rent one though and see how it feels under power.


----------



## clemsonfor (Apr 24, 2014)

Get 60+cc 50 is not much more than what you have and painfully slow in medium size wood. If you must have 50 cc  the saw every one is talking about is the 261 auto tune.

Personally I would get a 391 if your going non pro saw. But I have a 650 that I use a good bit now. Lots 84cc. I honestly dont use less than a 70cc saw now a days. I love the power and not having g to wait on the saw to cut. And with a big ssw you can actually lean on the thing to cut.


----------



## clemsonfor (Apr 24, 2014)

clr8ter said:


> Well, 400 is about my budget...


Well for that price if your buying new you will get a farm boss...on sale! And I would not buy that saw it is 59cc bit its just a homeowner and casual cutter saw to me. Go used and get a minimum of 036/360 personally if look for a clean 044/440 which is 70cc class saw.


----------



## clemsonfor (Apr 24, 2014)

Muffler modd is basically taking out the baffels and wide I g the muffler outlet to about 80% of the exhaust port size of the cylinder then returning or richening the carb to allow more fuel. You will make that 40 cc saw run more like a 45 and possibly closer to a 50cc saw performance wise.

Bit if you can't make "finicky" two stroke run right you may want to read a good bit before. If you dont tune it right you can lean it out and burn up your top end and scratch the piston and worse the cyl.


----------



## Camben (Apr 24, 2014)

I know you mentioned Stihl, but I was just at one of my local lawncare stores and they have the new Echo (59 cc) I think for $399.  That's a lot of saw for that price and if that would have been on sale 2 months ago I probably would have bought that.  Instead I went with the ms-291and have been pleaded so far.  I have a CS-300 that's 12 years old and it still works and cuts very well too.  I have the 18" bar on my Stihl.


----------



## smokedragon (Apr 29, 2014)

In your budget, I vote MS290 (if you have to have new) and the biggest 3xx or 4xx pro saw you can afford if you decide to buy used.

My 290 has served me well and will be a significant upgrade over your current saw.  However, if you run into anything bigger than 18" on a regular basis, you will find yourself wanting more saw eventually.  It is a good reliable saw, and I have never been unhappy with my purchase.

By the way - never handled a Makita or Dolmar saw, but if they survive the rental department at HD, they are significantly better than a Wild Thing.


----------



## D8Chumley (Apr 29, 2014)

FWIW the 362 and 391 are about identical weight and hp wise. 391 is ~$150ish cheaper. I'm very happy with mine but have never run a 36x to compare it against


----------



## bgoat223 (Apr 29, 2014)

farm boss and a sharp chain and ull do just fine


----------



## D8Chumley (Apr 29, 2014)

bgoat223 said:


> farm boss and a sharp chain and ull do just fine


Probably. Lot of variables for that to be entirely true


----------



## TreePointer (Apr 29, 2014)

bgoat223 said:


> farm boss and a sharp chain and ull do just fine



Which Farm Boss?


----------



## bgoat223 (Apr 29, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> Which Farm Boss?


the good old clam shell ms290


----------



## smokedragon (Apr 30, 2014)

290 or 291 is a good start (although you may get bitten by the CAD bug and decide that you need bigger later)


----------



## Firewood Bandit (Apr 30, 2014)

clr8ter said:


> So does makita make chainsaws better than they make electric construction tools? Because those suck. Around here, they are basically throw away tools, and you cannot get parts for them, so no one uses them here any more. I might be able to come up with one Dolmar dealer in the area, but not for makita, and I've never even SEEN one of their saws.


 

FWIW, Makita owns Dolmar.

With limited funds, it is foolish to overlook the 500 series Huskies.  The 545 (50cc) and 555 (60cc) are about the best values out there right now.  Auto tune saws with almost all the features of the pro line and very close to your budget.

Value and the term Stihl do not belong in the same sentence.


----------



## roadiestar (Apr 30, 2014)

Look at the Echo cs 590 heard a lot of good things about them.


----------



## clr8ter (Apr 30, 2014)

Before anyone else recommends Echo, read the OP, please.

OK, I'll check out the Husky 555. I suppose too much is being said about them to be able to justify not looking, at least.


----------



## TreePointer (Apr 30, 2014)

I'm pretty much a Stihl guy, but I own Macs, Husqvarna, Makita, Poulan, Craftsman, and Earthquake saws, too.  In fact, I actually use my Husqvarna 346XP more frequently than any of them.

The only issue that I've ever run into is that bars are not directly compatible (without adapter plate) between Stihl and the others.  Really, it's not an issue because I hardly ever want or need to swap bars.


----------



## BrotherBart (Apr 30, 2014)

Looking through this thread it appears that the saw you need is whatever Stihl costs $400.


----------



## smokedragon (Apr 30, 2014)

Firewood Bandit said:


> Value and the term Stihl do not belong in the same sentence.


I disagree.......a saw that will last 30 years with minimal repair/maintenance is a value to me.


----------



## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Apr 30, 2014)

BrotherBart said:


> Looking through this thread it appears that the saw you need is whatever Stihl costs $400.


I say wait till you can spend more money and get a new big stihl..................


----------



## Firewood Bandit (May 1, 2014)

smokedragon said:


> I disagree.......a saw that will last 30 years with minimal repair/maintenance is a value to me.


 

Well the OP had a price point of $400.  The saw in the Stihl lineup to meet his needs is the 291 which is now going for $469.  IMHO that is a bunch for a clamshell saw.  I will agree that in fairness it will last 30 years and in that time you can enjoy the flippy caps and high price of parts from Stihl.  (I really dislike flippy caps and won't buy one for that reason and haven't since they made this so called improvement)

My point is that when nearing the $400 mark you can get a real good non clamshell saw.


----------



## mstoelton (May 1, 2014)

I don't own any stihl saws so pardon the ignorance but what are "flippy caps"?


----------



## Jon1270 (May 1, 2014)

mstoelton said:


> I don't own any stihl saws so pardon the ignorance but what are "flippy caps"?



Gas and oil caps that have a flip-up handle and release / tighten in only about a quarter turn.  In theory they're faster and easier, but they are very persnickety about how they are oriented when you start to tighten them.  It's easy to *think* they're on right, only to have them fall off and dump the tank contents when you turn the saw upright.


----------



## clr8ter (May 1, 2014)

I think he's referring to the oil & gas caps with the flip-up tab so you can use them without tools. I kinda liked the thought, since the scrunch caps on my Echo drive me nuts. MY question is, What is a "clamshell" saw? I understand it has something to do with a plastic case, as opposed to a metal case, but I don't know specifically. 

I just looked into Husky. They don't actually look that bad. The 555 looks interesting. The good news is that the same dealer right down the road that sells Stihl also sells Husky. 

Keep in mind that cost and weight are considerations. While the 40 CC is slightly lacking, it's only SLIGHTLY. There have been SOME instances where more would have been good. At least one instance where I had to leave firewood on the table because the saw wouldn't do it. But this is not the majority of the time. I'm looking to hit a happy medium of more power, cost and weight.


----------



## Jon1270 (May 1, 2014)

clr8ter said:


> What is a "clamshell" saw?



It refers to the way the engine is assembled.  With a pro-style, split-case saw, the crankcase is split vertically with a crankshaft bearing fitted into each side.  When the crankcase is assembled, it has a flat surface on top, to which the cylinder is bolted.

With a clamshell design, the crankcase is split horizontally on the crankshaft centerline, and has half-circular recesses in the top and bottom halves that sandwich around the crank bearings.  The top of the crankcase is usually the bottom of the cylinder casting.

Removing and replacing the cylinder on a pro-style saw is a piece of cake, because it's just four easily accessible screws and a flat gasket.  The same job on a clamshell saw is a lot more work because the screws are harder to get to, and you have to thoroughly clean off and replace the rubbery sealant between the crankcase halves and around the crank bearings.  On the other hand, in the rare case that you have to replace crank bearings, that job is easier on a clamshell than split-case if you don't have a lot of specialized tools.

An oddball is the Husqvarna 350, which is a sort of hybrid engine design. It's a clamshell crankcase, and in fact the bottom of the crankcase is part of the saw's plastic chassis, but the top of the crankcase is a separate casting from the cylinder so it's possible to R&R the cylinder without messing with the crankshaft.


----------



## Firewood Bandit (May 1, 2014)

Excellent explanation Jon 1270 

Flippy caps are Stihls answer to something that was not a problem.  I never run a saw without a scrench in my pocket so a tooless cap is a non starter anyway.  Further I hand tighten the caps on my Huskies so they never get over tightened and don't ruin the gaskets.  On occasion the oil cap gets tighter after running and I need the scrench to  loosen a cap.

The new Husky caps have a folding tab that aids in more leverage to open/close the caps.  It is threaded just like the old and you can put the old style in if you don't like that.  That can't be said for the Stihl.


----------



## smokedragon (May 2, 2014)

Firewood Bandit said:


> I never run a saw without a scrench in my pocket so a tooless cap is a non starter anyway. Further I hand tighten the caps on my Huskies so they never get over tightened and don't ruin the gaskets.


I agree 100%

I can see how they would be nice on a homeowner only saw, but on ranch and pro saws it is not needed.

I also agree that depending on your usage and power requirements Stihl can be overpriced.

I know my MS 290 is a clamshell, but it is a darn good clamshell.  If it lasts long enough to need a rebuild, I will just buy another one.  I have an 028 that was a clamshell design.  I bought it used 10 years ago.  Gonna sell it this summer, and it still runs great.  It is 33 years old, and still fires with the same number of pulls as my 290.


----------



## Firewood Bandit (May 2, 2014)

smokedragon said:


> I agree 100%
> 
> I can see how they would be nice on a homeowner only saw, but on ranch and pro saws it is not needed.
> 
> ...


 

Sorry I have to disagree.  The 028 is a pro line saw with an alloy case.  I have an 028 Super that after 20 years I had rebuilt even though it ran great.  All rubber parts including anti vibe were replaced.  The saw was ported at the time of rebuild.  The  saw is  stronger than my 550XP although it now goes through a tank of fuel at least 50% faster and is incredibly loud.  It's fun, but the new saws anti vibe are so much better.  The parts were crazy expensive, roughly $200 on the rebuild.


----------



## robbydanilow (May 2, 2014)

Spent 3 hours today cutting with my ms261 and couldnt be happier. With the 20 inch bar buried in oak it didnt stall once. Ran 4 tanks of fuel flawlesly. Would go pro line if you can. I like the adjustable oiler but hate the flippy caps. Toolless caps have no place on a pro saw.


----------



## Bigg_Redd (May 3, 2014)

clr8ter said:


> Well, 400 is about my budget...



I would continue cutting with the Echo for another year or two all the while saving your pennies for a big boy saw


----------



## Bigg_Redd (May 3, 2014)

Jags said:


> The 311 and 391 don't get my vote because of the power to weight ratio.




Aren't they lighter than the 290/310/390?


----------



## clr8ter (May 3, 2014)

> I would continue cutting with the Echo for another year or two all the while saving your pennies for a big boy saw



That may be what ends up happening. Although yesterday, I was about to throw the Echo in the trash. The thing has developed a tendency to throw chains. I had just adjusted the tension, and I put the bar in a little 1/2" branch, and off comes the chain. I don't know what's making it do that, but it pisses me off. I need a new chain catcher.


----------



## jatoxico (May 3, 2014)

Inspect the sprocket drum/clutch housing. Those teeth can wear possibly mis-feed the bar or maybe the bar itself is worn. Is there a lot of slop in the chain side to side?


----------



## Ashful (May 3, 2014)

If I had $400, and a hankering for a new saw, I'd buy an 036AV ($300+shipping = $350).  With some spare chains, new file and scabbard, you'll come in just under $400.


----------



## SCOTT S. (May 3, 2014)

I have had a ms 460 and a 260 for around 10 years and only one time on the 460 did I have the bar oil dump because of flippy caps, my fault not paying attention. I'm not
saying this is some great invention but it defiantly wouldn't scare me away from stihl, non issue for me.


----------



## Jon1270 (May 3, 2014)

I tend to agree with Scott.  The flippy caps were confusing at first and infuriating when I dumped a tank of gas on my leg, but after reading the relevant section of a Stihl manual I understand better how they work and now I like them.  I still think they're less intuitive to operate than they should be, but I wouldn't choose a saw on this basis.


----------



## Bigg_Redd (May 3, 2014)

clr8ter said:


> That may be what ends up happening. Although yesterday, I was about to throw the Echo in the trash. The thing has developed a tendency to throw chains. I had just adjusted the tension, and I put the bar in a little 1/2" branch, and off comes the chain. I don't know what's making it do that, but it pisses me off. I need a new chain catcher.



Don't get discouraged.  Any saw is capable of mechanical foul ups and Echo makes a good, reliable product.  Check the bar, drive sprocket and drive links on the chain for unsual wear.


----------



## clr8ter (May 3, 2014)

Well, how quickly should the bar and drive sprocket be wearing? The saw isn't 5 years old yet, and it's not like I use it hard, or for my job or anything....it's been doing this for at least 2 years already.


----------



## Bigg_Redd (May 3, 2014)

clr8ter said:


> Well, how quickly should the bar and drive sprocket be wearing?




I've never worn out either bar nor sprocket.  My old 290 is going on 10+ years with the originals.  

FWIW - I doubt that either is worn out, per se, just worn oddly


----------



## clr8ter (May 3, 2014)

Huh. Yeah, ok, I will check that.


----------

