# Drolet HeatMax Review/Install



## Goatguy

Hey All!

Figured I'd report in on that new furnace from Drolet....

First, how about some background,  I live in a 2200 sqft 1.5 story house, with a 1500 sqft basement (3700sqft total).  The House was built in '78 and was built as efficiently as they were able at the time, 6" walls with full fiberglass, with 1" styrofoam on the outside before the siding, the basement is also fully insulated,  There are a lot of windows (8 are considered "picture" windows byu the insurance comapny) however, most are newer thermopanes at least.

The house has electric baseboard for the primary heat, and the previous owner had a RiteWay 73 furnace in teh basement with one giant duct straight to the kitchen which is in the middle of the first floor. I burned with that riteway for 2 years.  It heated the house... but it took a LOT of wood, with a 7.3 cubicfoot firebox, that it could burn through in 4-5 hrs... you can only imagine how old that go.

So this year I decided to upgrade, I searched around, Kuuma, PSG, Blaze King (I used to have a princess insert in my last house and was happy with it), Boiler system, The Napoleon HMF furnaces, etc.  I eventually decided on the Drolet Tundra #1 because of the price (I got it for $1599 on sale last week at Family Home and Farm), and 2# because of the raving reviews of the PSG Caddy.

I am not entirely sure if the stove has the grunt to heat the whole house when it starts getting real cold... but since the price for something larger, like the Kuuma (>$4k) and the MaxCaddy (quoted by my "local" dealer at $4700), I decided to go for the MUCH cheaper tundra.

Took me all weekend, but I managed to get the old stove out, and the new stove in and hooked up, I wasn't sure if it would draft that well, (the manual says no more than 2 90° turns before the chimney and I have 2 plus another 45°. But it sure looks pretty in place.

I fired it last night just for the fun of it, I completely smoked up the house due to the curing paint, but that's expected.  The stove started easily enough and teh chimney drafted just great ( even with all the bends, it's still a 30' interior chimney, so it's got some heavy pull when it's hot).

I't's going to take some getting used to, as the damper system is either fully on or fully off, I've never run a stove like that before.  But once it was up to temp, I shut off the primary damper and the secondaries flared right up and the heat poured out.  The other great thing is when I woke up this morninger and checked (12 hr's after startign it) there was plenty of coals to restart a new fir, no heat.. but LOTS of coals, that is something my RiteWay would never do.

So far the negatives I have found...
-I am not a big fan of the wingnuts closures for the heat exchanger and ash drawer.  They look cheap and tacky and will probably be a pain to use and have a good potential for losing the wingnuts by dropping them.  I understand it was a cost saving measure to get the unit to the 1599... but I'd have paid more to get nice hinged doors with over-center handle locks.
-The on/off switch for the primary air is on the back of the stove, it is very inconvenient to hit, especially when the unit is hot.  I'll probably eventually remoting wire the switch to a better place.
-The blower is pretty nice and pretty quiet, but I'm not sure it'll have the grunt to push air all the way to the second floor when I get around to ducting the house (to be fair, I haven't changed the setting from the "medium-low" default setting and it could potentially push much more when switched to high, we'll see)

Anyhow, that's I got for now, I hope it works out, so far I really like it and I think it was a fantastic value at the price point. Especially if I can get the tax credit at the endo f the year.

I'll post pictures when I get a chance.


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## maple1

Does the install manual specify a chimney draft spec? Might want to get a manometer to check it and make sure you're within spec. I've got a 30' chimney also and it will pull way too much draft without being regulated by a barometric damper - especially with any wind blowing at all. I got a Dwyer manometer & keep it hooked to my smoke pipe all the time - although likely not necessary to keep it there all the time once you have a barometric damper tuned in.


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## Goatguy

Maple1,

I have a barometric damper installed from the last furnace/stove, but I do not yet have a manometer to verify it's proper adjustment.  The manual is also very specific with regards to plenum pressure, so I'll need to check that too when I get a chance.  Thanks for your input


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## KL3540

Any photos?


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## laynes69

Yeah, you'll need the baro. We have a 32' exterior chimney and it's too much without one. If you don want to mess with the switch, add a thermostat to the furnace. This way you can regulate it via thermostat (on and off damper), or let it regulate with a set temp in house. The secret with these is seasoned wood and letting the furnace get up to temp before closing the damper. You will get a bit of heat from the coalbed, but when the damper is open. Having it connected to a thermostat allows it to ramp up the coals for heat then close when not needed. I thought our furnace wouldn't put out much heat either at first, but when it's allowed to stretch it's legs, it will put out alot of heat. Congrats and keep us posted, maybe a few pics?


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## FyreBug

+1 on what Laynes said. A thermostat can be had for about $25 nowadays. You got a killer deal on that unit BTW.

You're trying to heat a lot of house (3,700) with this wood furnace. Unless your house is extremely well insulated it will likely have a hard time heating all of it. Even a Max Caddy is rated for about 3,000 Sq ft max. Keep that in consideration as you design your ductwork, since adding extra lenght will eventually max out what the blower and furnace can actually do.


I'll pass your comments on to our design team but you are right... In order to make it cost effective in hardware retail outlet we had to change some things.

BTW, you can claim 10% of your installation up to $300 on the federal Govt rebate. 

Keep us posted and thanks for the review.


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## Goatguy

Well... It's not 3700 sqft. all the time, I'm only in teh basement for enough time to make it worth heating... maybe once a week.  With the last wood furnace, the fact that I was passively heating it (since I wasn't using a return air duct), and the heat from the exposed part of the chimney pipe was nearly enough to heat the basement, (remember, that is 6" studs with full insulation too, so it's not as hard as a load as one might think).  Also with the last furnace, it was only ducted to the first floor, the passive heat movement and minute convection was enough to keep the 2nd floor heated to ~60 degrees, which since that is where the bedrooms are, and 60 is perfect lseeping temp, works great for me.

So! If it is anything like the last furnace, all I have to do is heat the first floor, and teh basement and 2nd floor will get enough residual heat to keep them comfortable.  Not to mention the window will alot more heat through radiation than the non-windowed RiteWay furnace.
Anyhow, I'm hoping for the best, and even if it only heats 80%, or even if it heats everything except then 0 degree nights, I'll be happy.  ANything to keep that electric heating bill down.

Lastly, Fyrbug, I'm looking to get 2 more duct collars for the top of the furnace, where can I order those?  Also, I need one special cut fire brick (it fell out and broke during the bumpy trailer ride home).

Thanks!

Pictures to come when I get a chance (and find teh camera)


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## FyreBug

Goatguy said:


> Lastly, Fyrbug, I'm looking to get 2 more duct collars for the top of the furnace, where can I order those?  Also, I need one special cut fire brick (it fell out and broke during the bumpy trailer ride home).


Hi Goatguy, if you look on page 45 of the manual you'll see using 4 outlets is not allowed. What you'll find if you do is there will be too much air flow (low static pressure) which will cool the firebox too fast (inefficient burn and danger of condensation on low fire) plus the air itself flows too fast to pick up enough heat. 

PM me which brick you need and I'll send you a new one...


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## Goatguy

FyreBug,

I realize that having more than 2 outlets open at a time is not allowed.  I plan on having dampers on all four 8" outlets, that way I can direct the heat where I want while only using 2 outlets at a time.  I am thinking I'll run 2 outlets to the main floor, 1 outlet to the 2nd floor, and one in the basement, that way I heat the floors or spaces that I'm using, while closing the dampers to the areas I'm not.

(I could use T's and dampers to do the same thing... but it'd be easier to take it right of the furnace, plus I wouldn't take as hard of a hit on the air friction loss that one gets when going off a T

Does that make more sense now?


Oh! Also, I want the air filter adapter, is there an online retailer for something like that? I do not believe I have any nearby dealers to order from (Zip 48642)

Thanks, and PM on its way.


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## FyreBug

Goatguy said:


> Oh! Also, I want the air filter adapter, is there an online retailer for something like that? I do not believe I have any nearby dealers to order from (Zip 48642).



You can try these guys, they seem to specialize in parts. http://myfireplaceproducts.com/WelcomeScreen.aspx


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## M1sterM

First time getting back on Hearth.com for a while.  Can someone highlight the key differences between the Tundra and the Heatmax?  The Tundra is a new model from Drolet, correct?  I've googled it quickly, but can't seem to find any details on what the differences are.


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## Goatguy

I believe the tundra and heatmax are essentially the same, the only difference is cosmetic.  They made the two models so that different retailers aren't necessarily competeting directly with each other.  For instance... Lowe's offers "price matching, plus an extra 10% off if you find it cheaper somewhere else" on all thier products.  Well, if they carry the Tundra, but someone else carries the heatmax cheaper, then Lowe's has an "out" and won't have to price match because they aren't the exact same model.  They do this trick with appliances all the time.  Anyhow, I hope that made sense... haha, the take away is, they are the same, so pick the one that is closer/cheaper/prettier to you and enjoy.


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## brenndatomu

FYI, anyone lookin for a Tundra/heatmax, I just seen Menerds has extended their 11% rebate sale until Nov 2. (at least in my area, NE OH) That makes the Tundra just over $1600!


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## KL3540

Looks as if Family Farm and Home has the same deal right now. It's marked at 1599.   Thank you,I haven't checked the menards yet... I will take a peek over there.  Hopefully these sales continue past November 5th


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## Firefighting

KL3540 said:


> Looks as if Family Farm and Home has the same deal right now. It's marked at 1599.   Thank you,I haven't checked the menards yet... I will take a peek over there.  Hopefully these sales continue past November 5th



Family Farm and Home hooked me up for $1599 +$150 shipping from Michigan to Virginia. I just got it a couple of days ago and love what I've seen. Just can't wait to fire it up!


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## KL3540

Great news, I am keeping my JOB.  

Now that I am set on the Burner, I need to find and installer.


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## spadjen

are there any update on this furnace.  looking to get one but not alot of info. I have the drolet ht2000 and love it.  does anyone have any pics of the unit and the fire box?  also was wondering how the auto damper and thermostat works.  will be putting this in a basement that i would have to access from outside.


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## lexybird

I'm also curious on an update . Mine will be here in a couple days


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## M1sterM

lexybird.  Any updates?


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## KL3540

I am waiting on a call back from my estimate on price.  With the rough estimate, they quoted 8000.   That will be out if my price range which saddens me.  I would still like to hear about others experience with the unit.   If/when I build my barn, this will be the unit I choose.  It will be much cheaper to install in there and I'll do that myself.


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## lexybird

Not to lead anyone away from here but FYI I put an update on arborist site  . There are other ones who reviewed  there as well along with pictures ..18 pages of info


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## KL3540

Just thought I'd throw this sale I just saw out there for everyone to see.


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## brenndatomu

Cheapest I've heard of yet! Wherezat?


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## KL3540

Almont, Mi.  On the tag it says the sale goes until march of 2014


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## KL3540

Family farm and home.... Sorry


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## brenndatomu

KL3540 said:


> until march of 2014


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## brenndatomu

Posted the sale info ^^^ on the Tundra/heatmax thread over on AS, hope it was/ is OK to use your pic KL!


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## KL3540

Absolutely


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## Philbarb

Hi I'm new to this site and found the discussion of interest. I'm considering purchasing a new Tundra to replace my old Riteway model 37, which is a real creosote maker. After reading the installation/owners manual, it sounds like quite a science on how to maintain a fire correctly. It states that all the wood should be cut so the length doesn't vary more than 2 inches? I 'm used to filling the firebox and forget it. What has been others experiences with these units. Second question , how do the spend ashes and embers get into the ash tray, manually? Thanks


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## brenndatomu

Having all the wood the same length isn't crucial to proper operation, just has to fit in. 
Ashes are pushed into the ashpan manually. Most don't use it, just shovel out the stove when it's time and be done with it. I have a stove with the same ashpan setup, never used it, not once, way to fiddley for my liking.


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## TallBoy

Hey all, I just got my heatmax in last week and so far it's been a dream to run. The house (1500 sq ft , two story old farm house) gets to 74 easily and stays there. Last few nights we've had to shed both blankets and clothing just to stay comfortable in bed (this is s definite plus). My question is this, I've hooked up 8in duct work to two the side by side holes (the ones parallel with the front or back of machine). One duct flows to a floor register in my first floor, a run of about 10 ft, it's the duct on the top right of the unit. The other duct (left side) I connected to a duct that my oil furnace used to service that goes to the second floor bathroom. With the new duct work and the old I would estimate it being about 20 ft with of duct to the second floor. What I'm finding is that the duct that goes to the second floor gets warm/real warm. When the blower is running both ducts are the same temp BUT when the blower isn't running the duct that goes upstairs is still warm while the duct that goes to the first floor is cool to the touch. Why is this? I would rather the consistent heat go to the first floor and then work it's one way up through the house rather than pour out into the bathroom. Any thoughts ? My speculation would be that warm air wants to rise and maybe it can possibly do that quicker through the upstairs ducts because it almost acts like a chimney drawing the heat because it goes 10 ft vertical through the wall. Curious what people's ideas/recommendations would be. What do you think about installing a manual damper right about the unit in the duct so I can put it to half flow?  How far away from furnace top (right at top, ten inches, 3 ft down the line)?  Thanks all!!


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## brenndatomu

TallBoy said:


> My speculation would be that warm air wants to rise and maybe it can possibly do that quicker through the upstairs ducts because it almost acts like a chimney drawing the heat because it goes 10 ft vertical through the wall. Curious what people's ideas/recommendations would be. What do you think about installing a manual damper right about the unit in the duct so I can put it to half flow? How far away from furnace top (right at top, ten inches, 3 ft down the line)? Thanks all!!


Yup, chimney effect.
Install damper wherever...


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## TallBoy

Brenndatomu, thanks .... damper is installed an functioning properly, both runs of duct work are now an even temp when blower isn't running . Now I've got a couple of more questions to ask. 1. They sell a filter attachment kit, not wanting to shell out 40 bucks or wait the two weeks for it to arrive I fabbed up my own brackets to hold the filter and blocked off the other two sides of the blower unit with sheet metal and foil tape. My question is, on the side the filter is installed is it recommended to chop out the grate (its only held on by a number of metal tabs) or just install the filter over the grate. Certainly the grate blocks some percentage of air flow . 2. When burning the stove I usually fire it up with damper open for about 10 mins then close damper and let run. This keeps the house toasty and the heat from flying up my chimney. But I have notice the temperatures on my stove pipe thermometer are pretty low (under 200- creosote range) , the pipe gets into the 400-500 range and higher when the damper is open. Is the cool burning of this furnace normal operation and nothing to worry about because the secondary combustion is burning up a lot of what would become creosote on the walls of my chimney. My thinking is that firing the stove a few times a day should bake/flake off any build up on the pipe. Thoughts? Merry Christmas to all....


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## DoubleB

I got the filter kit with my Tundra, but I didn't open it before the installers installed it.  I think it came with 2 blank sheets of metal, because when I got home the installers had removed all 3 sides of grating, and covered them with the filter on 1 side and the full sheets of metal on the other two sides.  I don't see a reason to keep the grate on the backside of your filter.


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## ktys

Hi my tundra was working perfect then halfway thru last winter the heat seemed to be staying in the furnace. The pipes going to the duct work was barely warm while the front of the furnace was extremely hot. We cleaned the heat exchangers didnt change. Any suggestions. We purchased new in the fall of 2014


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## brenndatomu

ktys said:


> Hi my tundra was working perfect then halfway thru last winter the heat seemed to be staying in the furnace. The pipes going to the duct work was barely warm while the front of the furnace was extremely hot. We cleaned the heat exchangers didnt change. Any suggestions. We purchased new in the fall of 2014


The blower was working normally?
ANY other changes ANYwhere in the system?


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## STIHLY DAN

ktys said:


> Hi my tundra was working perfect then halfway thru last winter the heat seemed to be staying in the furnace. The pipes going to the duct work was barely warm while the front of the furnace was extremely hot. We cleaned the heat exchangers didnt change. Any suggestions. We purchased new in the fall of 2014



Check it out, you most likely now have a cracked fire box. You will want it replaced before the heating season.


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## Wisneaky

check the vermiculite baffle above the burn tubes. They have a tendency to crack. Had it happen twice on mine.


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## Craig9702

I have just hooked up my new tundra about a week ago,  and I'm still learning how to operate it.  Seems to be a well built unit. Just have a few questions.  

#1. I noticed some moisture dripping out of the back of the unit when I have the damper shut.  Is this normal?  I'm burning well seasoned red oak.

#2.  How hot should the stove be,  before shutting down the damper?

#3.  I hooked my duct work up front to back and noticed the 8" duct pipe in front towards the door is far warmer than the one towards the back.  Why is this?   Just so you know I do not have a barometric damper installed

Thanks for any feedback


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## brenndatomu

Craig9702 said:


> I have just hooked up my new tundra about a week ago,  and I'm still learning how to operate it.  Seems to be a well built unit. Just have a few questions.
> 
> #1. I noticed some moisture dripping out of the back of the unit when I have the damper shut.  Is this normal?  I'm burning well seasoned red oak.
> 
> #2.  How hot should the stove be,  before shutting down the damper?
> 
> #3.  I hooked my duct work up front to back and noticed the 8" duct pipe in front towards the door is far warmer than the one towards the back.  Why is this?   Just so you know I do not have a barometric damper installed
> 
> Thanks for any feedback


Howdy Craig!
#1. Not normal. Sure your wood is truly dry? Oak is known to hold moisture forever. You either have wet wood or low draft, or both. Could be you are shutting the damper too soon, does it maintain as good secondary burn after the damper is closed for a while? The secondary burn should only go out after the wood is burnt down, a number of hours at least.
#2. Put a mag thermometer on the heat exchanger clean out door (above the firebox door) IIRC most people run that around 350. Even better, get a probe type thermometer to stick in the stove pipe, run 'er up to 5-600* before shutting damper down.
#3. That is why they recommend using the 2 side x side outlets, the rear outlet is just getting the leftover heat from the front one. What is your draft like, no way to know if you need a baro without that reading. Without a known t's kinda like hooking a loaded trailer to a truck and you have no idea if the truck has a 4, 6, or 8 cyl engine. The chimney draft is the engine of a wood burner...

For much more info on the Tundra...https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/everything-drolet-tundra-heatmax.140788/


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## Craig9702

brenndatomu said:


> Howdy Craig!
> #1. Not normal. Sure your wood is truly dry? Oak is known to hold moisture forever. You either have wet wood or low draft, or both. Could be you are shutting the damper too soon, does it maintain as good secondary burn after the damper is closed for a while? The secondary burn should only go out after the wood is burnt down, a number of hours at least.
> #2. Put a mag thermometer on the heat exchanger clean out door (above the firebox door) IIRC most people run that around 350. Even better, get a probe type thermometer to stick in the stove pipe, run 'er up to 5-600* before shutting damper down.
> #3. That is why they recommend using the 2 side x side outlets, the rear outlet is just getting the leftover heat from the front one. What is your draft like, no way to know if you need a baro without that reading. Without a known t's kinda like hooking a loaded trailer to a truck and you have no idea if the truck has a 4, 6, or 8 cyl engine. The chimney draft is the engine of a wood burner...
> 
> For much more info on the Tundra...https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/everything-drolet-tundra-heatmax.140788/


Thanks.....  I think my whole problem with the dripping is because I do t ramp up the firebox temp hot enough before shutting the damper down.  Now that you say it.....I also noticed my secondarys only burn for about 20-30 minutes after shutting it down.  I think that goes hand in hand with the dripping.  I have a 20-30 ft masonry chimney with a 8x11 clay lined flue,  so I don't think there is a draft issue.  I will get the thermometers and try that.   Thanks again


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## brenndatomu

Craig9702 said:


> I have a 20-30 ft masonry chimney with a 8x11 clay lined flue, so I don't think there is a draft issue


You might be surprised. SBI  calls for a 6" chimney which is ~27 sq inches (round) 8 x 11 is more like 88 which is over 3 X larger. I would bet your draft is low.
Try the higher firebox temps, see what happens. One thing to keep in mind is that if it is partially a draft issue, that will improve with colder weather. Many chimneys don't do too well when the outside temp is much over 35-40*


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## laynes69

Your condensing your flue gasses in the chimney, your liner is too large. We had the same setup and the same problems. A cool chimney with a larger liner only hurts draft. A properly sized liner keeps the flue gasses hot, which improves draft and eliminates condensation. If you wood isn't seasoned properly, it only compounds the problem.


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## maple1

Craig9702 said:


> Thanks.....  I think my whole problem with the dripping is because I do t ramp up the firebox temp hot enough before shutting the damper down.  Now that you say it.....I also noticed my secondarys only burn for about 20-30 minutes after shutting it down.  I think that goes hand in hand with the dripping.  I have a 20-30 ft masonry chimney with a 8x11 clay lined flue,  so I don't think there is a draft issue.  I will get the thermometers and try that.   Thanks again


 
There is only one way to determine if your draft is right - measure it with a manometer. Cheap & easy.


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## Craig9702

laynes69 said:


> Your condensing your flue gasses in the chimney, your liner is too large. We had the same setup and the same problems. A cool chimney with a larger liner only hurts draft. A properly sized liner keeps the flue gasses hot, which improves draft and eliminates condensation. If you wood isn't seasoned properly, it only compounds the problem.


Is putting in a liner something you can do yourself?.   If so how do you get the 90 degree elbow hooked up so you can hook your stove pipe to it when it's inside the chimney?


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## brenndatomu

Craig9702 said:


> Is putting in a liner something you can do yourself?


Yes


Craig9702 said:


> If so how do you get the 90 degree elbow hooked up so you can hook your stove pipe to it when it's inside the chimney?


https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.c...How-to-Install-a-Chimney-Liner-Tee-Connector/


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## DoubleB

Craig9702 said:


> my secondarys only burn for about 20-30 minutes after shutting it down.



That kind of sounds to me like wet wood.  Or else burning balsa wood.  What I've found with my Tundra is somewhat like:

-If secondaries stay lit for 0-5 minutes after closing the damper, either the firebox was too cold or the wood is too wet.

-If secondaries stay lit for 10-30 minutes after closing the damper, that means the firebox was warm enough but the wood was too wet.

-If secondaries stay lit for 2+ hours after closing the damper, the firebox was warm enough and the wood was dry enough.

That's just me, and it may change for you if your draft is off.


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## Craig9702

brenndatomu said:


> Howdy Craig!
> #1. Not normal. Sure your wood is truly dry? Oak is known to hold moisture forever. You either have wet wood or low draft, or both. Could be you are shutting the damper too soon, does it maintain as good secondary burn after the damper is closed for a while? The secondary burn should only go out after the wood is burnt down, a number of hours at least.
> #2. Put a mag thermometer on the heat exchanger clean out door (above the firebox door) IIRC most people run that around 350. Even better, get a probe type thermometer to stick in the stove pipe, run 'er up to 5-600* before shutting damper down.
> #3. That is why they recommend using the 2 side x side outlets, the rear outlet is just getting the leftover heat from the front one. What is your draft like, no way to know if you need a baro without that reading. Without a known t's kinda like hooking a loaded trailer to a truck and you have no idea if the truck has a 4, 6, or 8 cyl engine. The chimney draft is the engine of a wood burner...
> 
> For much more info on the Tundra...https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/everything-drolet-tundra-heatmax.140788/


Well I picked up a magnetic thermometer and put it on my stove pipe and I am standing in front of my stove doing my first burn since getting it.......I can tell you for sure I haven't even come close to having this stove anywhere this hot yet and I'm only at 400 degrees on the pipe.....I will fill you in after a long burn to see how long the secondaries burn and to see if I get any more moisture......thanks again


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## brenndatomu

Do you have single or double wall stove pipe?
If that is double wall then the internal temps are gonna be much higher, like double at least. I was referring to an internal temp earlier. With the mag type thermos they will give you a rough idea on the temp but they are notorious for being inaccurate and the internal temps can run 50-100% higher than the externals. Just so you are aware...
I still think you are loosing your draft after the damper closes for a bit. I agree with @maple1 above, you need to check the draft with a meter. PM me if you are interested, I have a cheap manometer for sale...


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## maple1

Craig9702 said:


> Well I picked up a magnetic thermometer and put it on my stove pipe and I am standing in front of my stove doing my first burn since getting it.......I can tell you for sure I haven't even come close to having this stove anywhere this hot yet and I'm only at 400 degrees on the pipe.....I will fill you in after a long burn to see how long the secondaries burn and to see if I get any more moisture......thanks again


 
Magnetic thermometers can give very misleading readings. It is a lot hotter inside the pipe than it is saying. Get a probe thermometer.

And brenn's manometer.


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## Craig9702

brenndatomu said:


> Do you have single or double wall stove pipe?
> If that is double wall then the internal temps are gonna be much higher, like double at least. I was referring to an internal temp earlier. With the mag type thermos they will give you a rough idea on the temp but they are notorious for being inaccurate and the internal temps can run 50-100% higher than the externals. Just so you are aware...
> I still think you are loosing your draft after the damper closes for a bit. I agree with @maple1 above, you need to check the draft with a meter. PM me if you are interested, I have a cheap manometer for sale...


Ok here is my update....after letting it roar last night I noticed the secondaries kicked right in  (after shutting the damper) and ran until the wood was pretty much turned to coal and falling apart then they stopped burning,  which was only about 60-90 minutes.  Like I said the wood I have is very dry red oak.....then it idled with red hot coals for about another 4-5 hours.  I had no moisture dripping out of the pipe at all.  As far as my stove pipe it's just a 6" black stove pipe running to the chimney.  Also I didn't mention  I had the thermometer on the face of the stove also and had it about 350-375 when I dampered it down.  I'm not disagreeing with anyone on a draft issue I'm just trying everything else before I go spend money on a liner......so whats your thoughts on what I explained?


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## brenndatomu

Sounds good. I'm surprised that dry Oak only gassed out 60-90 minutes, but once wood coals up, it's done outgassing for the most part (secondaries over)
Seems like you just needed to let things get up to temp more before going to "cruise" mode...
You may be fine with your chimney as is, but I would bet there will be issues once you live with it for a while, hopefully I'm wrong though.


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## maple1

Spend money on a manometer. They are cheap.


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## TallBoy

Hey Folks,
Im burning the HeatMax for the second year. Last year i operated it exclusively on manual mode but im getting sick of babysitting the damper and doing 15 laps on the stairs everyday. Curious if anyone has tied it into a thermostat. The manual gives "HR' and "W" as the were you should run your wire into...however i have no "HR" in my connections line up. I have a honeywell thermostat (7 day programmable) and the connections read as follows-    - B- -O- -G- -Y- -W/AUX- -NOT USED- -R- -RC- . This thermostat is currently connected to my oil furnace, and the wiring for that leads into the -B- , -W/AUX-, and the -R- . My big question is, if i am going to hook up the Drolet to a thermostat can I connect it to the same thermostat as my oil furnace (preferable for aesthetics, as to not have 2 thermostats on the same wall)  or do i have to install a new and completely independent thermostat to control the Drolet damper. If I am able to use the same thermostat how do i make sure that the thermostats signals dont get crossed (so it doesnt tell the oil furnace to fire up when really i just want the damper to open)?  The thermostat has a switch on it that reads HEAT - OFF - COOL. Do i wire it so i can toggle between the two furnaces with that switch, the HEAT side controlling the oil and the COOL side controlling the drolet? OR NOT? Say i go away for the week on a friday and the Drolet is loaded and running, how do i get it so that after its load is burned then the heat switches over to the oil furnace so i dont come home to a frozen house and a flooded basement (frozen pipes)? I havent had much luck finding straight forward answers to this thermostat question of mine and am wondering if anyone can help. thanks all, merry christmas wood burners!!
TB


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## brenndatomu

Howdy @TallBoy! Welcome to hearth!
Probably easiest to just wire in a second thermostat. The Honeywell FocusPro 5000 works good for the Drolet as long as you don't need it to be programmable too. You _could_ do the toggle switch as you said, as long as you switch to oil before you leave, it wouldn't affect the Tundras blower if you already had a fire going...just wouldn't open the damper when the house temp dropped. It would still prolong when the oil kicked on. (you have separate ducts?) Many people run these with no tstat, just load 'em up, bring 'er up to temp, and let 'er go. Using the "cool" side of the tstat _may_ be possible, (I dunno, hafta think about that one a bit, kinda doubtful though) but way more trouble than it is worth. To answer your question, I have my Tundra hooked up to a Honeywell FocusPro 6000 tstat currently, I'm using the W and the R terminals (R and RC are jumped) One thing to look at is to see if you have two spare wires in your current tstat wire. That would save you from having to pull new wire in the wall anyways.
You may be interested in this thread, there is some pretty cool "automation" ideas that can and have been used on the Tundra, there is currently 30 pages of info here...the latest post right here...https://www.hearth.com/talk/posts/2025017/


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