# Next chain saw?



## skinnykid (May 20, 2008)

I already trying to decide on my next saw. Right now I am using a poulin that I got from Lowes. It works just fine But I cut as much as I can. I have been looking at Huskarvarna and Stihl. Only because I know they are good saws and I know there are dealers around this area. I like the Jonsered saws also but can't find a dealer in my area.

Any suggestions on a good saw? Thanks!


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## JayD (May 20, 2008)

http://cgi.ebay.com/Makita-DCS6401-...ryZ20538QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem  These are great saws made in germany by Dolmar.


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## Jags (May 20, 2008)

WILDTHING?

Just kidding here.  So many choices, so little time.  Suggestion: do a search in the forum for chainsaw or chainsaw suggestions.  More reading on the subject than time to do it. 

GO STIHL   (thought I would get the rumble started :coolsmirk: )


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## woodmaster (May 20, 2008)

Any of the european saws are good. Husqvarna and Jonsered are made in the same factory and many models share the same motor. They have a better air filter system that allows less frequent cleaning. Stihl  - also good , vibration mounts stand up to more abuse- ie pulling from stuck logs. 

They all have there positives and negatives. Pick a color!!


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## WoodMann (May 20, 2008)

I just adopeted a stray chainsaw................


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## gpcollen1 (May 20, 2008)

Anyone know if the Husq from Sears are the same as from anywhere else or if they are made more cheaply??  I actually want to by a saw from my local dealer (and friend) but I have a $300 gift card for Sears - and I do not need anything else right now...


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## Jerry_NJ (May 20, 2008)

I see "skinnykid" started out with a cheap saw, that's my practice, but I don't use more than a few hours run time on a saw per year.  Keeping the chain sharp and replaced is my big effort...bet that's the same on all saws...could I be wrong on that one?

I have several saws, all inexpensive.  The one I use most is a 14 inch Homelite $99 at Home Depot and elsewhere.  Looks great cuts well...well to tell the truth on the current saw, my second in 15 years, I have been having a power problem, and think I got it whacked by trying to adjust the high speed jet.  Now that's not easy to do on new saws (spell that EPA) as the adjustments are hidden.  In fact I have a post out on two other forums about the carb adjustment complexity...then too that may be because I have an inexpensive saw.

Hum, hope I didn't hi-jack this thread..to the point, if inexpensive (cheap) works, why spend more?  Of course, if you can find one made in the US, that's a good reason to pay more.


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## WOODBUTCHER (May 20, 2008)

I just picked up a Dolmar 5100s a few weeks ago for $379.00 and can't be happier. I'm coming from a 42cc Crafstman and a 46cc Paulon Pro.
The Dolmar 5100s cuts multiple circles around both of those saws with ease.


It has an aluminum body
Cranks out 3.9 hp 
Weighs 11.2 lbs.
Really good anti-vibe

WoodButcher


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## mikeathens (May 20, 2008)

CTwoodnpelletburner said:
			
		

> Anyone know if the Husq from Sears are the same as from anywhere else or if they are made more cheaply??  I actually want to by a saw from my local dealer (and friend) but I have a $300 gift card for Sears - and I do not need anything else right now...



Made in Mexico.  Get the Stihl.  Don't waste your money on anything else.  read reviews online for the big-box Husqvarna line.  I think you;ll find that they are homelites with a prettier sticker on them.

My Stihl 361 has been worth every penny.  I was hesitant to spend that much $$, but it cuts through 30" white oak and hickory like butter.  YOu can cut for days with the Stihl chains, too.  I have a craftsman saw that I used previously, and I'd get about 45 minutes out of that chain (oregon brand).

GO FOR THE STIHL!


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## Bill (May 20, 2008)

There are many good saws out there, but for $200 your going to get a consumer saw. For occasional use there fine, but entry level saws are just that and it doesn't matter who makes them. Professional saws cost a lot more. But there are many people that believe what ever they have is the best and that's not true. I have a number of saws and everyone is from a different manufacturer and I like them all. They each have there place and are designed for specific purposes.


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## BrotherBart (May 20, 2008)

The 16" and 18" bar Huskies sold at Sears are the 40cc 142 e-series. I have two of them and they are both made in the U.S. of A. I have the 16" bars and wouldn't recommend any longer than that on them but they are cuttin little dudes. They won't win any lumberjack competitions but man are they light and easy to use for this old fart.


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## woodmaster (May 20, 2008)

Personally I would stick with a Pro-series saw - which you will only find at a dealer. Its worth spending the extra money. The Pro saws have a higher hp/weight ratio. Generally turn faster which = faster cutting. Overall the Pro saws are higher performance and built to last.


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## Jerry_NJ (May 20, 2008)

I also have a 16" Sears, not sure which model, but not an expensive one.  I've owned it for three or four years but rarely use it as my lighter 14" does most of what I do.. i.e., I'm not taking down or cutting up any big ones.

Interesting on the testimony about Stihl brand chains, staying sharp enough to use "days", which I must assume means running several hours each day, otherwise what?  I can testify that the Oregon chains I purchase from Walmart and Home Depot don't hold up more than a few hours.  So, if a Stihl blade is that much better they aare worth at least 5 times as much $$$, not sure they are made for my Sears, Homelite and Pouland bars...but I may check.  But, not sure I have anything strong enough to sharpen such a hard blade :question:


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## mikeathens (May 20, 2008)

BrotherBart said:
			
		

> The 16" and 18" bar Huskies sold at Sears are the 40cc 142 e-series. I have two of them and they are both made in the U.S. of A. I have the 16" bars and wouldn't recommend any longer than that on them but they are cuttin little dudes. They won't win any lumberjack competitions but man are they light and easy to use for this old fart.



I was looking at the Husqvarna 550.  I am almost positive it was "made in Mexico".  I had read that Husqvarna started making all othe big box stuff in mexico.  Guess i was wrong.  Something to keep an eye on, I guess.


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## Carl (May 20, 2008)

woodmaster said:
			
		

> Personally I would stick with a Pro-series saw - which you will only find at a dealer. Its worth spending the extra money. The Pro saws have a higher hp/weight ratio. Generally turn faster which = faster cutting. Overall the Pro saws are higher performance and built to last.



I purchased a stihl 027 a month ago and love it. This was replacing my 30 year old stihl 028.  It has easy open fillers, no wrench chain adjustment, and purs like a kitten. 

As for needing the best, I usually go for the top end but when I asked the dealer about the pro 026 he said it was way overkill unless I needed it every day. I asked him several times and he assured me the 026 I purchased would last me my lifetime and more. Saved only a few bucks but why spend more than you need to?

Wife was looking for a lawn chair for the back yard and she picked out a 200 buck one. I showed her the 40 buck ones and said she could replace this 5 times over the expensive one which would probably not last any longer. Lucky me, she opted for the cheaper one with enough saved to get me a new chair if I wanted one.


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## Redox (May 21, 2008)

Someone besides Stihl makes chain saws?   :cheese: 

I paid about $260 over ten years ago for an 025 and have been very happy with it.  Always starts in about 4 pulls no matter how long it has been sitting around (6-9 months w/no stabil).  It has withstood a lot of abuse and has never needed anything but a new chain occasionally.  When I finally decide to go cut wood, I don't want to have to putz around with the saw to get it running.  I tried someone elses (Oregon?) chains a few years ago and seemed to wear out a lot quicker; maybe it was my imagination?

I can't stand cheap tools and figured Stihl couldn't be garbage if they sell so many.  Yes, there are other competent brands out there, but for the occasional use home-wood-stove-owner like me, the Stihl was a good pick.  Reputable dealers all over here, too!

Chris


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## 11 Bravo (May 21, 2008)

I have a Craftsman/Poulan and a Stihl 310, both 18".  Very happy I have 2 saws and my Stihl is the primary. Went with Stihl because there are 3 Stihl vendors/repair places within 15 miles and the nearest Husky or Dolmar place was  25 miles away. My Stihl 310 needs very little maintenance and with a sharp full chisel chain, it really goes through the logs.......Never a lick of problem.........


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## skinnykid (May 22, 2008)

CTwoodnpelletburner said:
			
		

> Anyone know if the Husq from Sears are the same as from anywhere else or if they are made more cheaply??  I actually want to by a saw from my local dealer (and friend) but I have a $300 gift card for Sears - and I do not need anything else right now...



I was wondering the same thing, the local hardware store suddenly sells husky saws and other outdoor equipment. I was saying to myself "those saws are probably wimped out models"


I Wonder......


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## WoodMann (May 22, 2008)

Y'know- I think the ultimate saw would be the engine out of a KX 80, powervalve and all. Then you'll be cuttin wood.......................


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## Tfin (May 22, 2008)

I've got an Echo with an 18" bar from Home Depot ($299) and have been very pleased with its operation and performance.  Light weight, low vibration and ripped through about 6 cords of red oak with relative ease.  I did push the saw a bit beyond its limits with some of the 30" diameter log butts, but it got the job done.


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## sullystull (May 22, 2008)

Go for the Stihl.  A great saw is the MS290 farm boss...and I believe it will accept up to a 20" bar.


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## skinnykid (May 23, 2008)

sullystull said:
			
		

> Go for the Stihl.  A great saw is the MS290 farm boss...and I believe it will accept up to a 20" bar.



Funny you wrote that, I decided on the Stihl. There is a dealer/service place less than 5 miles from my house. I went there to check out the saws and drop off some chains to be sharpened..

I think it was the MS 290 that the guy was showing me. He said it was in the professional category so it was built to take a whoopin.

He showed me a side by side comparison to the biggest saw he had, the MS 290 was 3 pounds lighter but had almost the same power.

It comes with a 16" bar.

Now I just need to blow up my poulin of find some other excuse to get one right now!


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## johnsopi (May 23, 2008)

One thing I've never understood was the need for a homeowner to have a dealer close by to service the chainsaw. How offen does the average saw go go in. I've never taken my saw in, and if it broke I would
drive or ship it to be repaired.


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## 11 Bravo (May 23, 2008)

Having the Poulin is a bonus. I will never go cutting without my cheap Craftsman alongside my Stihl in case I pinch a bar or get stuck. I always bring both with me along with a 4' pry bar.
As far as the model 290 is concerned, I think that is the one that can perform with the larger Stihl models but costs 40 or 50 bucks less.


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## DeerMeadowFarm (May 23, 2008)

I have a Husky 51 (or is it 55?) that I've had for 15 years or so and I've probably cut 100+ cords of wood with it. For the past 4 years I haven't used it much and it still starts great and runs perfect. I have a small Echo that I used to use for limbing or when I climbed, but that rarely gets any use at all.
I'm going to get back into wood burning here very soon and I will most likely be looking for a new saw. I'll look at both the Husky's and Stihl (never heard of those other German ones before...) but hwatever I get I will be looking at a pro saw this time. My Husky searved it's perpose but my BIL has a pro-model husky that is at least 4 years older than mine and it'll out-cut my saw hands down.
I too have heard great things about the Stihl chains and for what it's worth I think the Stihls are significantly quieter than the Huskys.


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## skinnykid (May 23, 2008)

11 Bravo said:
			
		

> As far as the model 290 is concerned, I think that is the one that can perform with the larger Stihl models but costs 40 or 50 bucks less.



Yes you are correct. That is what the dealer said and what I saw as far as comparing them at the shop and in the Stihl magazine he gave me.

Just need to save up now.


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## abj1969 (May 23, 2008)

glad i stumbled onto this post..  just coming here to ask the same thing.      finally bought a splitter and it has rained since..lol.   so today i go back to split some wood to stack.  i have a craftsman saw and man the thing was bogging oll over it self. took forever to cut the biger logs and the chain is sharp.  i need something to go through this oak a little better and faster so i can keep up with the splitter...lol.


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## skinnykid (May 23, 2008)

after I posted this I went out back and cut up a couple of blown down pines. One of them was huge. They took me forever to cut to lay them flat on the ground. Anyway, my poulin stalled out alot of times (maybe from over work?) and it had an 14 inch bar. Man I was thinking, I could have really used that extra power and longer cut for these trees

It was some hardcore work!!

As I said, I will have to save up and get that saw.


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## SmokinBlack (May 23, 2008)

We have 2 Stihl 361's and couldn't be happier with their performance.  I also just picked up a Stihl 230 C-BE to replace an old Craftsman.  It's a very nice little light weight saw.  The easy start system and chain adjustment feature on this saw are great.


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## Jerry_NJ (May 24, 2008)

I agree with johnsopi, why does a home owner/user need to have a dealer so close by?  From what I read on this thread many may not be in the tree trimming business, but their saw has no way of knowing that.  For that crowd, the professional saw, and I suppose given the investment, a deal/shop near by (especially with the price of gas, don't want to drive an unnecessary miles) may be a good idea.

I hear this dealer comment on lots of forums, especially on the yard/garden forums, tractors, lawn mowers, tillers, that sort of stuff.  I've had tons of those tools, and a few chain saws too, and I've never wanted to take one (not once) back to a "dealer" or to another repair shop.


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## skinnykid (May 24, 2008)

I guess the plus (for me) to having a dealer/ service man so close by is when shopping you can get the knowledge you need on the one brand that you have in mind rather than going to a big store where they have many different brands and really don't know the equipment well. 

And if anything would break, chances are they have the parts and knowledge to fix it in a timely manner.


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## SmokinBlack (May 24, 2008)

skinnykid said:
			
		

> I guess the plus (for me) to having a dealer/ service man so close by is when shopping you can get the knowledge you need on the one brand that you have in mind rather than going to a big store where they have many different brands and really don't know the equipment well.
> 
> And if anything would break, chances are they have the parts and knowledge to fix it in a timely manner.



The Stihl dealer we use is literally less than 5 minutes from our place.  There have been several times that we have shown up there in the middle of the day for a quick fix, chain sharpening, etc. and then gone back to work.  For the amount of wood we cut, we appreciate that convenience.


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## Fredman (May 24, 2008)

Husky. If you are going to cut up wood with the best buy a Husky, if you are going to wear a tie while cutting up wood then buy a yuppie saw. Worked in the wood's for many years, men ran husky's, yuppies ran the rest.


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## Fredman (May 24, 2008)

Chain sharpening. Are you kidding me?


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## Jerry_NJ (May 24, 2008)

Some people have trouble doing self service gas filling of their car.


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## skinnykid (May 24, 2008)

SmokinBlack said:
			
		

> skinnykid said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



right on!


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## skinnykid (May 24, 2008)

Fredman said:
			
		

> Husky. If you are going to cut up wood with the best buy a Husky, if you are going to wear a tie while cutting up wood then buy a yuppie saw. Worked in the wood's for many years, men ran husky's, yuppies ran the rest.



WHOA!


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## SmokinBlack (May 24, 2008)

Fredman said:
			
		

> Chain sharpening. Are you kidding me?



What's your point?


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## Jerry_NJ (May 24, 2008)

The point? Good thing you have a dealer near by.  Most of us sharpen our chains ourselves, and in less time than it takes to get in the car, never mind driving somewhere...that's the point I got, could just be me.  Then too my chains could be sharper and better balanced, I'm sure, but I'll DIY anyway.


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## SmokinBlack (May 24, 2008)

Jerry_NJ said:
			
		

> The point? Good thing you have a dealer near by.  Most of us sharpen our chains ourselves, and in less time than it takes to get in the car, never mind driving somewhere...that's the point I got, could just be me.  Then too my chains could be sharper and better balanced, I'm sure, but I'll DIY anyway.



Do I sharpen them myself...on occation yes.  But, it seems kind of pointless when the dealer we use will sharpen our saws and do a quick cleaning for absolutely nothing.  If I had to drive any distance to do it, it wouldn't be worth it.  But since he is right here, why not.


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## Fredman (May 24, 2008)

Every tank of gas you should take a couple of swipes across each tooth. It is easier on the saw and you then trying to cut with a dull saw. Blowing out the air filter and blowing out all the dust that has gathered around the engine and chain and bar. Don't forget to grease the tip of the bar and flip the bar when putting on a new chain.


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## Jerry_NJ (May 24, 2008)

Fee after sale service, that's a 'point".


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## Hogwildz (May 24, 2008)

Putting someone down because they have a shop sharpen their chains deserves a smack upside the head.
Put the macho crap back in the closet or take it to another forum.
I know a few companies that sharpen their own, and  a few others that take their chains in in bulk for sharpening, even if just for the mere fact, they don't have the extra time to sharpen chains after a long tiring day.
Can one sharpen their own? Sure. If they don't does that make them less a wood burner or person? Not in my book.
Gotta love the manly, manness that flows from time to time when talking wood burning & equipment.
I use a Dremmel to sharpen mine, wanna come here and give me crap about it?
Guaranteed its done before your 1/4 way around with your file. And yest they have em that hook to your battery of your truck even.
Nuff said. Sheesh


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## Sawyer (May 24, 2008)

Fredman said:
			
		

> Every tank of gas you should take a couple of swipes across each tooth. It is easier on the saw and you then trying to cut with a dull saw. Blowing out the air filter and blowing out all the dust that has gathered around the engine and chain and bar. Don't forget to grease the tip of the bar and flip the bar when putting on a new chain.



Eastern or western UP? I am below Ironwood.


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## BrotherBart (May 25, 2008)

Hogwildz said:
			
		

> Gotta love the manly, manness that flows from time to time when talking wood burning & equipment.



Chains? Who uses chains? I cut everything with a crosscut saw and split it with a hatchet.


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## Jerry_NJ (May 25, 2008)

I cut and split with a pocket knife :kiss:


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## skinnykid (May 25, 2008)

I give my 16 inch logs the flying elbow to split them!


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## jeffman3 (May 25, 2008)

I use a 350 Husky with a 20" bar and this works great for me! I take my chains in to be sharpened by the shop, and they do a great job! We cut allot of downed elm, and this stuff is loaded with grit and sand. I can get 1 pickup load or maybe (1 1/2) if I am really careful, before I switch to a sharp chain. On the way back home, I drop off the dulled out chain, and pick it up next time I'm through town. The saw is great!, and the Husky chains hold up pretty good, considering what I'm putting them through. In my opinion.

I looked long and hard at the Stihl, and the Husky. I chose the Husky because of the people in the dealership/ hardware store/ repair shop. It boiled down to the personality of the people in the store, and their reputation of good quality work. Both are great tools and both will serve well. You really can't go wrong with either one, assuming comparable service. in my opinion.

( ;-) I use a toe nail clipper when the saw is in the shop)


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## Fredman (May 26, 2008)

My old man used a grinding wheel saw sharpener to sharpen the neighbors and his chains, but I wouldn't let him touch mine. If you want to use a dremel, go right a head. The problem with that is that you are heating up the chain and you are taking the temper out of it. You will have to sharpen it more often than if you would do it by hand. A dull knife will do more injuries and that goes along with a dull saw too.


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## sullystull (May 26, 2008)

skinnykid said:
			
		

> Fredman said:
> 
> 
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> ...



Guess I'm a "yuppie".  Cool, I always wanted to be one!
BTW, I don't need a hatchet, a pocket knife or a toe nail clipper.  I just look at the tree and it falls, splits, stacks and loads into the stove!


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## Hogwildz (May 27, 2008)

Fredman said:
			
		

> My old man used a grinding wheel saw sharpener to sharpen the neighbors and his chains, but I wouldn't let him touch mine. If you want to use a dremel, go right a head. The problem with that is that you are heating up the chain and you are taking the temper out of it. You will have to sharpen it more often than if you would do it by hand. A dull knife will do more injuries and that goes along with a dull saw too.



Nope, don't heat nothing. 2 or3  steady quick passes and done. It ain't on there long enough to hit nothing.
I am guessing you are either guessing and assuming it heats & take the temper out, or made the mistake personally.
I haven't had that problem, and it last damn near as long as a new chain.
There is more than one way for things to be done. Just because folks find a faster, easier way, doesn't make it a worse way.
Have a nice day.


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## gpcollen1 (May 28, 2008)

Jerry_NJ said:
			
		

> I agree with johnsopi, why does a home owner/user need to have a dealer so close by?  From what I read on this thread many may not be in the tree trimming business, but their saw has no way of knowing that.  For that crowd, the professional saw, and I suppose given the investment, a deal/shop near by (especially with the price of gas, don't want to drive an unnecessary miles) may be a good idea.
> 
> I hear this dealer comment on lots of forums, especially on the yard/garden forums, tractors, lawn mowers, tillers, that sort of stuff.  I've had tons of those tools, and a few chain saws too, and I've never wanted to take one (not once) back to a "dealer" or to another repair shop.



I guess my question is why would you NOT want a dealer around to stand behind the product, assist you when you need it, service it if you want them to, sharpen your chains if you do not do it yourself, purchase your oil and misc stuff from????  I do not see it as a need but why would you not want it?  Should everyone buy them from a big box and then ship them to get repaired or serviced??  That makes no sense.  There are many folks who do not/cannot service their own equipment.


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## gpcollen1 (May 28, 2008)

Jerry_NJ said:
			
		

> The point? Good thing you have a dealer near by.  Most of us sharpen our chains ourselves, and in less time than it takes to get in the car, never mind driving somewhere...that's the point I got, could just be me.  Then too my chains could be sharper and better balanced, I'm sure, but I'll DIY anyway.



Some of us are busy enough where they cannot do everything.  What do I do - I purchase a few chains for each saw (4 for each currently) and then when 2 or 3 are dull, I drop them off when running errands.  My local shop is one 3 miles away, so it easy.  

1 - They appreciate the business and adds to the work pile when they are slow
2 - Keeps my face in there so that I am a customer and not just a once through.  I have got some good deals on used equipment because they know me or like me or something - but showing my face as a customer counts to that.
3 - The cost is minimal and I have enough to do than try and find time to sharpen chains.  Something has to be farmed out at home b/c i cannot do it all by myself.  Id rather do my brakes on my car and not pay someone to do it as opposed to paying someone while I sit home sharpening chains...


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## Adios Pantalones (May 28, 2008)

It takes me maybe 10-15 mins to sharpen a chain from dull.  Probably take me at least 5 to change a chain anyway.  Honestly- I have a tendency to overwork myself, so sharpening is a built-in break.  I have to remember to get a glass of water every tank of gas in the summer as well.

Plus- I'm really bad about remembering errands or being around when places are open.


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## kevin j (May 28, 2008)

I think there are two different topics being intertwined & argued here:

-Sharpening a rocked chain, or one that has cut over a pickup load of wood. This is a DULL chain, not just dull. To me, that is grind time, and I drop them off at the store. That makes sense, or using a dremel if you wish (I don't).

-Continuous maintenance to keep a truly sharp chain. Every tank or two, two or three strokes with a file. Takes maybe 5-10 minutes max even on 20 to 24 inch bar. That is the difference between a chain that still cuts, vs. one the is sharp and fast and safer. 

Try freshening the chain long before taking it in for grinding. Huge difference in production and speed.

Many prior threads on that topic on this BB.

k


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## Fredman (May 29, 2008)

Some people are just plan lazy or just don't or can't learn how to sharpen a chain and they should just go back to burning fossil fuel. I know many loggers that is I suggested about sending out their chains to be sharpened, I better run fast. I have been in the saw shop when someone dropped off a chain and the comment has been why do they even own one after they leave.


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## Fredman (May 29, 2008)

better yet buy it by the face and save yourself the embarrassment of going to the shop to drop off your chains!


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## Fredman (May 29, 2008)

Gas saving tip. I get two good pickup loads stacked from one tank of gas.


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## Hogwildz (May 29, 2008)

Shame on you lazy people.
Yeah just order your wood cut split & stacked, or better yet, just buy fossil fuel to heat with, cause ya don't have the added time or knowledge or time to learn the knowledge to sharpen your own chains.
And also, call a taxi if your transmission goes and you can't fix your own car yourself. And fix your own boiler if it breaks.
Oh and don't forget to do you own electrical, HVAC, plumbing etc. etc etc. or else your lazy.
A real man can fix everything and knows everything, otherwise hes lazy.
All I can suggest is take what info is useful to each here, and take the rest with a grain of salt.
Its getting sooooo macho in here.


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## biggins08 (May 29, 2008)

I love you Hog.


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## skinnykid (May 29, 2008)

yes, this thread turned into something I wasn't expecting.

On a brighter note, I just scored and huge ass Ash tree!! It it is a uprooted blown down in perfect condition. No rot or nothing. I was wondering how in the world I was gonna get it out of the woods but I am cutting it into 5-8 foot length and them dragging them with my 4-wheeler.

I didn't think it was gonna pull those logs but it does with ease. Not bad for a 500cc.

I love Polaris quads!


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## biggins08 (May 29, 2008)

My poulan wild thing is the biggest, baddest saw availible today.


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## Hogwildz (May 29, 2008)

skinnykid said:
			
		

> yes, this thread turned into something I wasn't expecting.
> 
> On a brighter note, I just scored and huge ass Ash tree!! It it is a uprooted blown down in perfect condition. No rot or nothing. I was wondering how in the world I was gonna get it out of the woods but I am cutting it into 5-8 foot length and them dragging them with my 4-wheeler.
> 
> ...



Nice score. Free wood rocks!!
Sorry for the semi hijack of your thread. My tolerance for morons is low these days.


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## Jags (May 29, 2008)

Hard Woods said:
			
		

> My poulan wild thing is the biggest, baddest saw availible today.



AhhhhhHaaaa, ha, ha!

Oh, and by the way, using a quad to skid logs is lazy.  You should wear a harness and pull them out like a sled dog. :coolsmirk:


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## Jerry_NJ (May 29, 2008)

What's a Polaris Quad, a ATV? 

Do you also use it for other yard work, e.g., mowing with a tow mower?  I've been thinking about replacing my old garden tractor, and an ATV seems a good possibility.  I'd never be able to skid logs with my garden tractor, it doesn't even have a locking differential.  As long as I like this to log skid, I haven't hijacked this thread, right?


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## Tfin (May 29, 2008)

Jerry_NJ said:
			
		

> What's a Polaris Quad, a ATV?



Yes, its a 4 wheeler (ATV).


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## skinnykid (May 29, 2008)

Jerry_NJ said:
			
		

> What's a Polaris Quad, a ATV?
> 
> Do you also use it for other yard work, e.g., mowing with a tow mower?  I've been thinking about replacing my old garden tractor, and an ATV seems a good possibility.  I'd never be able to skid logs with my garden tractor, it doesn't even have a locking differential.  As long as I like this to log skid, I haven't hijacked this thread, right?



I do not use it for yard work because I just bought a house with a big yard but I already have a mower. But as I said, I found out it will skid logs of reasonable size and I am also getting a plow for this coming winter.


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## skinnykid (May 30, 2008)

here ya go


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## Highbeam (May 30, 2008)

I had read earlier in the thread that the MS290 was called a pro level saw by a dealer. It is not. It is one of their midrange saws and a nice saw but not a pro saw. Price and plastic case reflects this.

I am one of the lazy guys who keeps 3-4 chains for my saw. When I put the last sharp one on I take the dull ones to the local saw shop and let him sharpen all of them for a minimal cost. I would rather be doing something else and I don't mind supporting the local saw shop. As it turns out I have spent as much money on chains and sharpening over the years as I have for my saw. No regrets though, I also buy premade (and sliced!) bread from the store. You've got only so much time on this planet.


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## RAY_PA (May 30, 2008)

well, I'll jump in on this topic also, since I am getting back into the wood burning. My old Husqy is getting tired,. Sooo, I am leaning toward the MS290, but changing out the 20" bar for an 18". And thoughts on this set up? ( I like the 270 also)


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## Highbeam (May 31, 2008)

"leaning toward the MS290, but changing out the 20” bar for an 18”. And thoughts on this set up?"

I have pretty much concluded on the same saw but leave the 20" bar and be sure that it has the somewhat optional 3/8" chain. Dolmar 5100s would be great too if they had better availability.


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## skinnykid (Jun 1, 2008)

Highbeam said:
			
		

> I had read earlier in the thread that the MS290 was called a pro level saw by a dealer. It is not. It is one of their midrange saws and a nice saw but not a pro saw. Price and plastic case reflects this.
> .



They have a MS290 and MS290 Pro.


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## aandabooks (Jun 1, 2008)

There is no MS290 Pro.  There used to be a 029 Super.  The MS290 is basically the 029 Super with flip caps.  If you are thinking of the MS290, spend the extra $40 and buy a MS310.  It will be right at $400 w/18" bar.  Then you will have a full 3/8 chain setup and a more powerful saw at the same weight.  Get a loop of RSC, it will have a yellow tie strap in the loop.  The dealer will probably have the saw setup with RSC3 chain.  See if you can swap that chain for the RSC.


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## skinnykid (Jun 1, 2008)

your right, my bad, I meant the 260 and the 260 pro. I got my numbers confused. Sorry


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## Gooserider (Jun 18, 2008)

If you can find a close by Dolmar dealer, they are well worth a look...  I got a 7900 on-line just before Dolmar got stupid and shot themselves in the foot by cutting off on-line sales...  You can get the smaller version of the same saw as the Makita 6400 from Baileys and other on-line shops, it's the same saw with a smaller piston & cylinder and blue covers instead of red.  If the 6400 turns out to be to small the big engine is just a parts swap away...  

The neat thing about the Dolmar 7900 is that it's an 80cc 6.5hp saw, in the same weight class as the Stihl / Husky 65 - 70 cc saws - best hp/weight ratio in the business, will go through Oak like it wasn't there...  I use a 20" bar most of the time (effective length is really closer to 18" because of the agressive bucking teeth) and have a 28" bar that I mount for the really big stuff - I've run the 28" buried full length in maple and the engine didn't even slow down...

I've also heard great things about the 5100.

Gooserider


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## Outdoorsman (Jul 5, 2008)

Now there's good advice, Dolmar 7900 is indeed the best weight/power saw in that size range.

It may not be the he man way to look at saws, but when in the market for a new one, that's my main issue.  A pound of weight means a lot, over hours of cutting you'll harvest more wood with the lighter saw.

On another point made in this thread, regarding dealers, I agree with those saying they don't need one real close.  Even if I'm way behind on keeping up with sharpening chains, I just hold off until I go to town & then drop off 6-8 at once.  Always a good idea to have plenty of spare chains, you never know when you'll have a opps.  IF you flat file chisel chains though, I don't drop those chains off, to much of a pain to restart them to flat file again.  

As to good saw choices for the thread starter.  

Dolmar 5100 or 7900 (7900  best in class)

Solo 656 (656 is best in class of 40-60cc weight/power) or 681

Stihl 260, 361, 441 or 460 all very good but none are best of class anymore, though they are still close enough

Husky 346XP, 357XP, 372XP or 385XP All good saws, but also not best of class, though again still close enough

All the saws I listed are pro grade saws.  Depending on what & how much you cut they are very worth while.  And if weight/power matters to you at all, they are the only ones to consider.  I've cut 20+ cords in the last year & believe me weight matters to me.  I really like to cut, but love the feel of a fast saw.


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## JayD (Jul 6, 2008)

You can still buy the full Dolmar line over the internet Just Have to Call!  And parts if ya need them if you don't see the parts ya need online just call them they are a full sevice dealer. http://www.amickssuperstore.com/Dolmar_Chainsaws_s/163.htm  I have a Makita modded to 7900 same as Dolmar and love it. I will need a smaller saw soon and the 5100s looks real good to me.


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## chad3 (Jul 7, 2008)

Outdoorsman has some very good advise in terms of saws.  Mine:  Stihl 361 for most medium/small stuff, very good saw, love it.  Husky 372 (if you can find one) great medium saw.  Will cut 24 inch oak with no bogging if you don't dawg it too bad.  Large for me Solo 681, had mine buried with a 28" bar and is was pulling
It really depends on what size trees you are cutting and remember, I won't use the 681 for limbing or cutting once I get up to the limbs.  Right tool for the job.  One go to saw, hmmm, either the sthil or the husky or some saw in that 60-75cc range.  Go with a pro saw, as over the course of 10 years of cutting it may cost a little over a dollar a week......
Food for thought.
Chad


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## crazy_dan (Jul 7, 2008)

the husky saws at Lowe's, sears, and HD are just fancy poulans. that said I do have a 142 and love it it is a light 16" saw with vibration dampening and I probably cut more wood with it than I do any of my other saws because it is so light and if you keep the chain sharp it cuts very good. 

The difference between cutting like a dream and cutting like crap is a sharp chain.


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