# I need a chainsaw, what size for general use?



## ctswf (Nov 29, 2015)

im giving up on my old homelite 16inch chainsaw. 

what is a good size to buy thats not unnecessarily large?

im mostly cutting up trees that are already down, then in to the splitter.
Im thinking larger than my current 16inch but dont want to lug around a huge blade when its mostly not needed.

maybe 20inch? and while im asking, any specific recommendations are welcome. I have only owned one chainsaw before.

thanks


----------



## jatoxico (Nov 29, 2015)

I'd go by cc of the power head. What Homelite saw are you retiring?


----------



## ctswf (Nov 29, 2015)

jatoxico said:


> I'd go by cc of the power head. What Homelite saw are you retiring?



homelite ranger av, 33cc
ps06323
16inch

it was a decent cheap homeowner saw, was given to me a few years ago. I definitely want more power


----------



## duramaxman05 (Nov 29, 2015)

Depends on how often you are gonna use it and what your budget is


----------



## jatoxico (Nov 29, 2015)

I don't know what your cutting but can get a fair bit done w/ 16" bar. That said 30 cc is pretty small. I think a lot of saws marketed to home owners over size the bar relative to the power head which makes for a weak combo.

You'll get a lot of opinions and many would tell you to get a pro saw. IMO if I was going to have one saw for general firewood cutting something in the 50-60 cc range with a 16" bar works. It will be good for most cutting and still OK for limbing up. Can get a spare of 18" bar for the occasional large stuff and the saw will pull it.

I've been checking CL for a larger saw myself (more want than need) but my current is a Husqvarna that I bought re-conditioned. I tuned it (big difference), bought a file set and have been very happy. If you're more likely to have work done by a dealer then Stihl or Husky is fine, Dolmar's seem to pack a big bang for the buck.

If the little Homie starts and runs OK get a smaller bar and chain for it. If kept clean and sharp it will still be useful for light work.


----------



## ctswf (Nov 29, 2015)

duramaxman05 said:


> Depends on how often you are gonna use it and what your budget is



probably cut about 4 or 5 cords worth of rounds per year.
budget I would like to be under $300

im leaning toward an 18inch bar...but sounds like bar sizes can often be changed as long as the saw can handle it?


----------



## jatoxico (Nov 29, 2015)

A 50 cc Rancher w/ an 18" bar can be found for just under $300. There are tons of options out there not to mention the used market. Yes many people have different bars for the same saw depending on what they are doing.


----------



## Grateful11 (Nov 30, 2015)

If you could come up a little to say $350 you could get an Echo CS-490. Our biggest local dealer had all his Echo on 20% off recently. I think they can come off the price some unlike some other brands. My son got a CS-590 with a 24" bar for $330. http://www.echo-usa.com/Products/Chain-Saws/CS-490


----------



## Sean McGillicuddy (Nov 30, 2015)

ctswf said:


> probably cut about 4 or 5 cords worth of rounds per year.
> budget I would like to be under $300
> 
> im leaning toward an 18inch bar...but sounds like bar sizes can often be changed as long as the saw can handle it?



Good choice on bar size, Loews has husky's but I would go with a dealer  .. will help you choose saw/ bar and chains and will repair or adjust. Same with a Stihl dealer. Depends what dealers are near you.
Let us know how you make out.


----------



## Fred Wright (Nov 30, 2015)

Agreed with the suggestion of a 50-60cc powerhead with 18" B&C. You could go 20" but that's maxing it out. As was mentioned, the Husky Rancher is a good choice for general firewood cutting. It's not a timber logging saw but it will serve your firewood needs well.

If it was me I'd hold on to the Homey lite saw (they are decent saws) and drop the B&C size for limbing and other small cutting jobs. Limbing and bucking limbs with a 50cc saw can become tiring real quick. I've done it before; it was the only saw I had.


----------



## MDFisherman (Nov 30, 2015)

My first choice would be the 455 rancher with an 18" bar. You'll have to come up with a few extra dollars. 

I have never ran an echo but hear a lot of good things
About them. The ones at Home Depot look well built.


----------



## Anumber1 (Nov 30, 2015)

I am super happy with my Poulan Pro pp5020av.

50cc powerhead,  20" bar. Spring isolated, antivibration handle. 2 yr warranty. $169 end of last summer at the "save big money" box store.  

It's mostly a Husqvarna saw as husky owns poulan.

Edit:

If you get a set of carb adjustment tools (the poulan uses the splines tool) and an Oregon 72lpx70dl chain (not a safety chain) this saw will keep up with any of the twice the price farm/ranch saws.

I have bucked about 6 cords with mine now, trouble free and happy.


----------



## Jazzberry (Dec 1, 2015)

I would find me a good used Stihl 026 / ms 260 pro or non pro version.


----------



## BlueRidgeMark (Dec 1, 2015)

Anumber1 said:


> I am super happy with my Poulan Pro pp5020av.
> 
> 50cc powerhead,  20" bar.
> 
> I have bucked about 6 cords with mine now, trouble free and happy.




Too much bar for a 50cc saw.  It won't live a long and happy life.   By the way, take a look at the EPA specifications - the emissions lifetime is a good guide to the quality of the saw.   I suspect you'll  find that Poulan is a 50 hour saw.




ctswf said:


> im leaning toward an 18inch bar...but sounds like bar sizes can often be changed as long as the saw can handle it?




Yes, within reason.  A good rule of thumb is 18" max for a 50cc saw, and 16" for the 40cc class.   Every inch of bar length is more load on the saw, more power for moving chain instead of cutting.  You can't have both.  That engine's output is either moving chain or cutting wood, not both.

You really will cut faster with a shorter bar on the same powerhead.

For general wood cutting, 50-60 cc is the sweet spot.  Smaller saws aren't going to have a long life simply because they are being worked too hard for their size.


----------



## CentralVAWoodHeat (Dec 1, 2015)

Fred Wright said:


> Agreed with the suggestion of a 50-60cc powerhead with 18" B&C. You could go 20" but that's maxing it out. As was mentioned, the Husky Rancher is a good choice for general firewood cutting. It's not a timber logging saw but it will serve your firewood needs well.
> 
> If it was me I'd hold on to the Homey lite saw (they are decent saws) and drop the B&C size for limbing and other small cutting jobs. Limbing and bucking limbs with a 50cc saw can become tiring real quick. I've done it before; it was the only saw I had.



We consider the 455 Rancher a small professional saw in our area.  We use it for small logging jobs that don't need super bar saws with tons of power.  I've spent plenty of days with the 455 Rancher without any problems as it doesn't carry the extra weight of a pro line saw with more power.  That extra power comes in when I need a longer bar, and that's a different saw altogether.


----------



## ctswf (Dec 2, 2015)

what is the difference between the husqvarna 450 and 450 rancher?

their website seems to have identical specs. the 450 is $355 the 450 rancher is $400


----------



## Sean McGillicuddy (Dec 2, 2015)

ctswf said:


> what is the difference between the husqvarna 450 and 450 rancher?
> 
> their website seems to have identical specs. the 450 is $355 the 450 rancher is $400



Good question!
I would also like to know this info.


----------



## rippinryno (Dec 2, 2015)

stihl has some nice home owners models that can be had for around $200.  I can't speak for the life of the saw, but would have to think it would last longer than the poulan alternatives.  i saw a stihl homeowner with 16" bar that was $179.99 at my local farm store, this would probably be a great saw for your needs.  For $20 less you could get the 18" poulan, which really is not a bad saw.  I run an 18" poulan and have grown to like the spring handle, it's smooth!  That being said, when it's time to really get to work the poulan is in the truck bed lol.


----------



## byQ (Dec 2, 2015)

If I was going to budget ~$300 for a chainsaw, I would consider two options:
1) Buy a new homeowner type of saw
2) Buy a used entry-level type pro saw

You are using it on 5 cords per year. That is a fair amount of wood. Personally, I would get a used pro-type saw. For how small they are chainsaws are machine that do a lot of work. There is a lot of rattling and friction. So parts are going to break. Initially the new  homeowner saw will be fine but in the long run the better more durable parts saw will do better.


----------



## Anumber1 (Dec 2, 2015)

BlueRidgeMark said:


> Too much bar for a 50cc saw.  It won't live a long and happy life.   By the way, take a look at the EPA specifications - the emissions lifetime is a good guide to the quality of the saw.   I suspect you'll  find that Poulan is a 50 hour saw.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Just going to counter a couple of your points.

The poulan pp5020av is equipped with a slightly shorter than 20 inch bar. It is really more like 19 inches. 

The epa rating on outdoor power equipment has nothing to do with lifespan. It is simply the standard by which that particular piece of equipment is expected to meet its emissions rating. 

In this case, the op is asking for opinions regarding a chainsaw for general, occasional use, in the $300 range that are a step up.from his current saw. 

I get the fact that many here are wood nuts and more is always better regarding chainsaws but, honestly, I have used farm/ranch type saws for years. Stihl, Husky as well as echo and poulan. With this said,  I bought the poulan after reading about it on Another Site and found it to be a much better saw than expected. 

The pp5020av is not a wild thing. It is on par with the twice the price farm/ranch saws. 

However, since it came from a box store, it was up to me to fine tune the carb and put a better chain on it. This made the total cost of the saw $200 + a bit of my time to tweak it. 

It cuts side by side with my FIL's Stihl ms-290 and my good friends Dolomar ps-5105 (both twice the price saws).

I don't see any reason why this poulan won't live a happy life as long as I keep it sharp and clean.


----------



## MDFisherman (Dec 2, 2015)

There's a reason why they're called "pull-on"...

Spend a few extra dollars and you will be able to work smarter, faster and easier.


Begin poulon supporters rants..... Now


----------



## Jazzberry (Dec 2, 2015)

MDFisherman said:


> There's a reason why they're called "pull-on"...
> 
> Spend a few extra dollars and you will be able to work smarter, faster and easier.
> 
> ...





Agree
If you ever used a Stihl 026 you would forget where you put the Poulin.


----------



## Anumber1 (Dec 2, 2015)

MDFisherman said:


> There's a reason why they're called "pull-on"...
> 
> Spend a few extra dollars and you will be able to work smarter, faster and easier.
> 
> ...


Huh? 

I wonder what all those "H" symbols are that seem to be cast into the parts all over my "pull on"?

They sure look like Husqvarna emblems...


----------



## bad news (Dec 2, 2015)

Anumber1 said:


> Huh?
> 
> I wonder what all those "H" symbols are that seem to be cast into the parts all over my "pull on"?
> 
> They sure look like Husqvarna emblems...


 
I'm sure they are, and the Poulan Pro sounds like a good saw for the money.  However, as someone who makes a living in manufacturing, I can assure you that just because it comes out of the same plant doesn't mean it has the same quality of materials and construction.  We make products for customers all around the world, and what we ship one isn't necessarily what we ship another for many reasons - most often based around what they've asked for, not what we're capable of doing.  There's a reason that saw is half off the price of a Rancher, and it's not just the name on the box.  Husqvarna wouldn't give away all the profit margin on a product just for fun - they've cut their costs back somewhere.   That doesn't mean it's not a good saw for the money, for some uses, for some customers, etc.  From what you've said it certainly has a place and may be a good solution for the original poster.


----------



## ctswf (Dec 3, 2015)

what do you all think of the stihl ms 271. its about the same price and size as the husqivarna rancher 450 at my local dealer.

also the ms250 is on sale for $300 but its a little smaller than I had in mind at around 45cc


----------



## bad news (Dec 3, 2015)

That 271 would probably do fine.  I think the 250 is too small for what's essentially an only saw for you.


----------



## jatoxico (Dec 3, 2015)

Don't blow off that little Homelite. Be nice to it and assume you're going w/ a two saw plan. That being the case I'd lean towards 60cc, maybe anything 55ish + depending on whether it's a pro or farm/ranch saw.


----------



## ctswf (Dec 3, 2015)

jatoxico said:


> Don't blow off that little Homelite. Be nice to it and assume you're going w/ a two saw plan. That being the case I'd lean towards 60cc, maybe anything 55ish + depending on whether it's a pro or farm/ranch saw.



haha my target size and budget keeps climbing as I read this thread.

in the mean time I did some general maintenance to my homelite and it seems to be running well now, so I will indeed be on the two saw plan.


----------



## jatoxico (Dec 3, 2015)

ctswf said:


> haha my target size and budget keeps climbing as I read this thread.


Ain't that always the way! I saw you might be considering some saws north of $300 so I figured I'd join in. But if you feel like you're coming back to earth a 33cc and 50cc 2 saw plan would be very respectable and more than fine for a typical firewood cutter. In which case the 50 cc Rancher still fits the bill. Put some of the money you save into some PPE if you don't have already.


----------



## missedbass (Dec 4, 2015)

ctswf said:


> what do you all think of the stihl ms 271. its about the same price and size as the husqivarna rancher 450 at my local dealer.
> 
> also the ms250 is on sale for $300 but its a little smaller than I had in mind at around 45cc


 the ms271 with a 16" bar has served me well. no problems at all.


----------



## bad news (Dec 4, 2015)

ctswf said:


> haha my target size and budget keeps climbing as I read this thread.
> 
> in the mean time I did some general maintenance to my homelite and it seems to be running well now, so I will indeed be on the two saw plan.


 
Goes both ways I guess...on one side, you shouldn't let yourself get sucked into spending too much by what a bunch of jokers on the internet say.  After all, you've gotten along ok with a small Homelite for who knows how long...

On the other hand, only $100 or $200 more isn't that much for something you can own and enjoy for many years if you take care of it.  I'd personally would buy the biggest baddest saw you can reasonably afford (what's reasonable is up to you, haha!) and use that Homelite for small stuff or easy trimming.


----------



## BlueRidgeMark (Dec 4, 2015)

bad news said:


> I'm sure they are, and the Poulan Pro sounds like a good saw for the money.  However, as someone who makes a living in manufacturing, I can assure you that just because it comes out of the same plant doesn't mean it has the same quality of materials and construction.  We make products for customers all around the world, and what we ship one isn't necessarily what we ship another for many reasons - most often based around what they've asked for, not what we're capable of doing.  There's a reason that saw is half off the price of a Rancher, and it's not just the name on the box.  Husqvarna wouldn't give away all the profit margin on a product just for fun - they've cut their costs back somewhere.



There it is.



As for bar length and engine size, I guess you can put your personal experience up against the combined years of experience of tens of thousands of professional saw users, or you can learn from other people's experience.   The overwhelming majority of people in the field don't like to waste time and money replacing saws that had their useful life shortened by running a too-long bar, and 18" on a 50cc is a pretty near universal recommendation from those folks.


----------



## CincyBurner (Dec 5, 2015)

* Find a saw you are comfortable using and that you like, and meets your needs 85% of the time.  If regularly cutting branch wood and smaller trees (only occasionally up to 30" diameter), a 5o cc w/ 16" bar should work fine.  If taking large butt logs for firewood; plan to do felling; own wooded land, then bump up to 60 cc or even 70 cc.
* Find opportunities to use others' saws.  Try 40 cc, 50 cc, and 60 cc; try home-owner, ranch, and pro models to get a feel (but don't want thread to degenerate into a Stihl v. Husky v. Echo discussion).  Stihl used to have trials of their saws at their Timbersports events, don't know if they still do.   It's limited use, but an opportunity to get feel of a range of saws.  But . . . realize the more powerful and "better" the saw that you use, the more you'll covet something bigger & better.  

For me a Stihl 260 Pro with 16" bar meets two of my cutting needs - 1) personal firewood, and  2) the occasional use for work - limbing and bucking, where ambulatory cutting in brush/ debris is required, and a powerful, well balanced saw is  important.​* Don't reflexively go for the longer bar.  Go for one length shorter (16" instead of 18").  Longer bar = more drag, less cutting speed and weight balance shifted toward bar.  Also, a saw with 3/8" pitch chain will require more power than a .325 pitch chain because more wood is being cut.
* As others have suggested consider purchase of used pro model.
* Keep your budget for PPE separate from saw budget.
* Keep your chain sharp.
* If saw will get infrequent use like my saw does, then use fuel mix (e.g. Stihl MotoMix).​


----------



## jaoneill (Dec 5, 2015)

I am inclined to agree with the majority of the above posters in that a 55-60 cc saw with an 18" bar will serve well for many years. If it makes you feel good, grab a 20" bar with a skip chain for the occasional oversized tree. 

For the last ten years I have cut my 10 cord/year with two 55cc pro model saws; one wears an 18" bar, the other a 20". 

Then there is my "50" - Pioneer P50 that is. I bought it in '77/'78, it's a Canadian made 85+cc pro model that came stock with a 36" bar. Although I cut a semi-commercial volume of firewood and logs for the next 25 years, most of what I cut was under 30" so I parked the stock bar and bolted on a 20 incher. With that much power, and that short a chain to spin, I kept the rakers filed down to half way and it was one wood eatin' SOB; it would fall through a log like a hot knife through butter, one just had to hang on for the ride. I used it for everything from blocking to limbing, anything else was just too damn slow. I never said I was going out to cut wood; used to tell folks I was going out to "mow" wood and that was what it did. Two rebuilds, twenty-five years and thousands of cord of wood later, it came to rest comfortably in the back of the garage as life moved on. 15 years later we went back to burning, and as I was getting on in years I bought the two smaller, more easily manageable saws. 

Last year I decided to start thinning some of our bigger 36"- 48" maples, thinking they are beginning to go downhill and will provide us with all of our wood for the next 10-15 years. Problem is, how to tackle 48" trees with 18" saws. I almost pulled the trigger on a new 70cc pro model then stopped to think; "I wonder if the old 50 will fire up". It did. So I bought the old girl a new spark plug, popped in a carb kit, and bolted on a brand new/old stock 28" bar. Truth is it only weighs 3lbs more than a new 70cc, and spins that 28" chain a whole lot better than a new one would a 24". I'm sure the EPA and my Jonsered dealer both would probably rather I didn't love the old girl so, but I do. So far I am only using it for blocking the 24" and larger stuff (it is alot of saw for a 68yo) but what a pleasure it is to hear the old girl roar again. Life is good.


----------



## 2broke2ride (Dec 5, 2015)

jaoneill said:


> I am inclined to agree with the majority of the above posters in that a 55-60 cc saw with an 18" bar will serve well for many years. If it makes you feel good, grab a 20" bar with a skip chain for the occasional oversized tree.
> 
> For the last ten years I have cut my 10 cord/year with two 55cc pro model saws; one wears an 18" bar, the other a 20".
> 
> ...


I love this post[emoji173]️!! There is absolutely nothing that compares to putting a pro saw to some wood. I have three saws in the stable, two of which my father bought brand new. The smallest is dads Mac 10-10 circa 1971 52cc 16" bar bought brand new when dad graduated high school it has cut thousands of cords of firewood and never even had the carb rebuilt, next is my Husqvarna 266xp 66cc 18" bar, got it free from dads work because it wouldn't start, needed a $10 carb kit...... The. Last but not least is the Jonsereds 70e 70 cc 20" bar. Dad bought it brand new around 1980 or 81. This saw is a firewood monster. There is no way I could tolerate the small displacement and big bar combo of homeowner saws.


----------



## D8Chumley (Dec 6, 2015)

bad news said:


> That 271 would probably do fine.  I think the 250 is too small for what's essentially an only saw for you.


I had an 025 with 16" bar for awhile, darn good little saw. Unfortunately it was the red headed step child, and didn't get used as much as the MS170 or 360 ( before it blew up ) which I then got the Echo 590 w/18" bar. I sold it to a buddy who was looking for a good used saw for $200 with 2 extra chains. OP, we will spend all your money if given the chance!


----------



## ctswf (Dec 8, 2015)

thanks for the info here.

I ended up w the stihl ms 271 farm boss with 18inch blade for 375 before tax from a local dealer. I have not had time to put it to good use yet but I cut up a few 12inch rounds, seems very nice


----------



## Sean McGillicuddy (Dec 9, 2015)

Let us know when you give it a serious workout!


----------



## Pyrate Dave (Dec 14, 2015)

ctswf said:


> thanks for the info here.
> 
> I ended up w the stihl ms 271 farm boss with 18inch blade for 375 before tax from a local dealer. I have not had time to put it to good use yet but I cut up a few 12inch rounds, seems very nice


CTSW, where did you buy your Stihl?  I'm in Manchester and just paid about $34  more for the same saw.


----------



## missedbass (Dec 14, 2015)

Pyrate Dave said:


> CTSW, where did you buy your Stihl?  I'm in Manchester and just paid about $34  more for the same saw.


Normal price is $399 with a 16" blade. Add $10 for 18"blade


----------



## ctswf (Dec 14, 2015)

Pyrate Dave said:


> CTSW, where did you buy your Stihl?  I'm in Manchester and just paid about $34  more for the same saw.



I have returned the saw it had some issues, I will pm you the name of the dealer, they are reputable around here and took my used saw return no problem.

it was $410 before tax with an 18inch blade. I offered $400 out the door in cash, as they do not have to pay credit card fees. they accepted. Full receipt and stihl warranty and everything.

unfortunately the saw would not stay idoling it was set to low. bought on friday, closed all weekend. I failed to adjust carb to a perfect level myself without the chain spinning, lost the weekend. 

brought it in monday,they adjusted it quick, ran great for 15 min of use, now wouldnt start at all period. No I did not flood it, again closed as it is now the following weekend.

they gave me a full refund no problem, I don't want to badmouth anyone I think I just got a flakey saw for some reason someone must have played with the carb screws or not set from the factory. Im sure they are capable of fixing it again in a matter of minutes, but I lost 2 weekends and my baby 33cc homelite picked up the slack. So I now am on the search again for a new saw, nothing against stihl but I think I might get something else.


----------



## Jazzberry (Dec 14, 2015)

Stick to their pre smog pro saws and you should have much better luck. 020 026 036 044 046 066 are all much better choices. Also in the ms 200 ms 260 ms 360 etc.


----------



## rippinryno (Dec 14, 2015)

Sounds like a bad cylinder on your saw ssuprised they wouldn't just give you a brand new one to replace it.


----------



## Pyrate Dave (Dec 14, 2015)

ctswf said:


> I have returned the saw it had some issues, I will pm you the name of the dealer, they are reputable around here and took my used saw return no problem.
> 
> it was $410 before tax with an 18inch blade. I offered $400 out the door in cash, as they do not have to pay credit card fees. they accepted. Full receipt and stihl warranty and everything.
> 
> ...




Thanks for the info.  These things will happen as the world is an imperfect place.  I can appreciate the frustration you must have felt, been there many times myself.  It sounds like the dealer took care of you.  Good luck with the hunt for a new saw.  I've had good luck with my Stihl backpack leaf blower which I've had for around 6 years, and so far, so good with the new saw.  I've learned to stay away from the big box stores when making these kind of investments as I think the quality is lacking in what the big box stores carry, although you can't beat the convenience of the hours they are open.


----------



## BrotherBart (Dec 14, 2015)

Yeah even though I have never owned a Stihl they are no doubt great chainsaws. Something just went wrong with that one. I would usually be the one that bought it. Dad always said that if he went car shopping he would take me to pick it out, and he would buy the one sitting next to it given that I always pick the one that breaks.


----------



## ctswf (Dec 14, 2015)

rippinryno said:


> Sounds like a bad cylinder on your saw ssuprised they wouldn't just give you a brand new one to replace it.



im sure they would have, I just have no time to get there durring working hours I cant really risk a trip back


----------



## firefighterjake (Dec 15, 2015)

I've been trying to hold myself back . . . but I cannot.

Bar . . . it's a bar . . . not a blade. A knife has a blade. Chainsaws have bars with chains.

I'm sorry . . . I really am . . . but I just could not hold back any longer.


----------



## ctswf (Dec 15, 2015)

no need to apologize for educating


----------



## Sean McGillicuddy (Dec 15, 2015)

Ya it's a Baaaa


----------



## rippinryno (Dec 15, 2015)

firefighterjake said:


> I've been trying to hold myself back . . . but I cannot.
> 
> Bar . . . it's a bar . . . not a blade. A knife has a blade. Chainsaws have bars with chains.
> 
> I'm sorry . . . I really am . . . but I just could not hold back any longer.


oh i love playing devils advocate.  ya know, all things considered, it's much more the shape of a blade than a bar.  Technicalities and by definition i suppose it is called a bar, but honestly.....resembles a blade much more than any bar i have come to mind.  To me a bar is more of a rod


----------



## Pyrate Dave (Dec 15, 2015)

rippinryno said:


> oh i love playing devils advocate.  ya know, all things considered, it's much more the shape of a blade than a bar.  Technicalities and by definition i suppose it is called a bar, but honestly.....resembles a blade much more than any bar i have come to mind.  To me a bar is more of a rod



I've always thought a bar was the place I went to when I wanted to get away from the wife and kids for a bit.


----------



## D8Chumley (Dec 16, 2015)

firefighterjake said:


> I've been trying to hold myself back . . . but I cannot.
> 
> Bar . . . it's a bar . . . not a blade. A knife has a blade. Chainsaws have bars with chains.
> 
> I'm sorry . . . I really am . . . but I just could not hold back any longer.


Thank you, you said what I was thinking


----------



## firefighterjake (Dec 16, 2015)

rippinryno said:


> oh i love playing devils advocate.  ya know, all things considered, it's much more the shape of a blade than a bar.  Technicalities and by definition i suppose it is called a bar, but honestly.....resembles a blade much more than any bar i have come to mind.  To me a bar is more of a rod



True . . . common mistake. But I figure if folks are going to use the equipment, they might as well know the correct terminology so they don't get made fun of at the chainsaw shop when they walk in looking to buy a new "blade" for their chainsaw.


----------



## firefighterjake (Dec 16, 2015)

ctswf said:


> no need to apologize for educating



Maybe so . . . but I really don't like being "that guy."


----------



## rippinryno (Dec 16, 2015)

firefighterjake said:


> True . . . common mistake. But I figure if folks are going to use the equipment, they might as well know the correct terminology so they don't get made fun of at the chainsaw shop when they walk in looking to buy a new "blade" for their chainsaw.


i have to imagine the old small engine shops get a lot of the "blade", ya know the guy walking in with his trusty craftsman, bent the damm blade, needs a new one......owner says "let me introduce you to a stihl" lol.


----------



## CTYank (Dec 18, 2015)

Anumber1 said:


> I am super happy with my Poulan Pro pp5020av.
> 
> 50cc powerhead,  20" bar. Spring isolated, antivibration handle. 2 yr warranty. $169 end of last summer at the "save big money" box store.
> 
> ...


I've had a 5020 for 3+ yrs. OEM 20" (nominal) bar works fine in hickory, so long as the chain is SHARP. Is there an option?
Bud saw it, tried it, bought one and put his stihl 250 up for sale. 5020 is a lot of saw/$. I've worn out a spur sprocket on mine.
Another good option is to shop on www-dot-VMInnovations-dot-com. Got a good buy there on a refurb Husqy 455r.
Long before I'd consider any stihl I'd see what Dolmar would work best for me. Much better bargains on pro-quality vice plastic poo.


----------



## BlueRidgeMark (Dec 18, 2015)

rippinryno said:


> oh i love playing devils advocate.  ya know, all things considered, it's much more the shape of a blade than a bar.  Technicalities and by definition i suppose it is called a bar, but honestly.....resembles a blade much more than any bar i have come to mind.  To me a bar is more of a rod




Doesn't matter.  It's a bar.  "Blade" is just wrong.


----------



## arborealbuffoon (Dec 30, 2015)

This general topic may well be the most common question in the chainsaw universe. Unfortunately, I have worked on nearly all the brands and models listed in this thread so far. Additionally, it should be noted that I am largely an end user ONLY in the chainsaw marketplace. I do not sell them for $$.
     Stihl, at this point in time, is a great company at marketing. They have followed trends in the marketplace to produce saws aimed at certain price points. In fact, I firmly believe the consumer will get a better value for their dollar buying a box store Poulan.
     Echo is presently gobbling up market share in this area. And for good reason. They make excellent saws, trimmers and blowers that are a very good value. Parts are also readily available. They even group common fuel system wear parts into blister packs called "re-power" kits. Just because Echo hasn't been heralded as "The Worlds Greatest Outdoor Power Equipment" for fifty years does NOT make their products lesser machines. 
     It's not my intention to ruffle feathers here. I hope my brutal honesty is not misconstrued. I do,  unpopular as it may be, choose to support The Truth....


----------



## rippinryno (Dec 31, 2015)

I wish i could find a place near me that sold echo.  Most people that know powersports know echo is a great brand, i've got an echo string trimmer and blower that are more than 10 years old and both still run perfect.  I have a couple Poulan, one of them i bought brand new 18" this past season for $100 on sale.  A great value, but I still hesitate to compare it to a $179.99 home model stihl, although I would say they are both good for what they are designed for, i have to think the stihl is a better saw.


----------



## Jazzberry (Dec 31, 2015)

arborealbuffoon said:


> This general topic may well be the most common question in the chainsaw universe. Unfortunately, I have worked on nearly all the brands and models listed in this thread so far. Additionally, it should be noted that I am largely an end user ONLY in the chainsaw marketplace. I do not sell them for $$.
> Stihl, at this point in time, is a great company at marketing. They have followed trends in the marketplace to produce saws aimed at certain price points. In fact, I firmly believe the consumer will get a better value for their dollar buying a box store Poulan.
> Echo is presently gobbling up market share in this area. And for good reason. They make excellent saws, trimmers and blowers that are a very good value. Parts are also readily available. They even group common fuel system wear parts into blister packs called "re-power" kits. Just because Echo hasn't been heralded as "The Worlds Greatest Outdoor Power Equipment" for fifty years does NOT make their products lesser machines.
> It's not my intention to ruffle feathers here. I hope my brutal honesty is not misconstrued. I do,  unpopular as it may be, choose to support The Truth....



Echo makes crap and decent saws just like the Stihl and Husky. The trick is to know what model is the good stuff. Unfortunately it seems the new stuff don't work as well as their older twins. Ive had bad luck with Husky but I know the 372 xp model is a great saw. You saying or implying Poulin is a better saw than the Husky or Stihl is laughable.


----------



## Jstroke (Jan 1, 2016)

To the original person,

I have reread your initial thread and I wanted to share my recent and past experiences.

I just bought a brand new Pro level--Stihl ms 261 c-m. It is a 50 cc saw. It came with an 18 inch bar and 3/8 chain. I changed out the safety chain for the RS super comp full chisel chain. It is a beautiful saw, it is well balanced, light weight and has very little vibration. It is a joy to use. HOWEVER---

It will not push that 18 inch bar with a full chisel chain easily in bigger wood. Will it cut with the whole bar buried---yes. If the wood is not going to bind or put any pressure on the B&C.

As others have pointed out--Run a shorter bar.--I am going to switch to a 16 inch bar, .325 full chisel chain in order to keep the RPM's up. 

If it was me--and I am not you, I would follow others advice--find a good used pro level saw. 

I would not buy one with less than 50 cc--And I would look at 60 cc saws very seriously.---I think you will find that the weight of the saw will be offset by the lack of time and energy you spend working the saw in the cut. 

If you are felling trees in the 24 inch and bigger class than I would move up to a 70 cc saw. Again, find a good used pro level saw and take it to your local mechanic or check it out yourself for all the wear items. and compression.

5 cords of wood a year is a good amount. It depends how you approach it--exercise and a way to clear your head in the woods OR something you need to get done in short order.


----------



## johndams (Jan 3, 2016)

good every day saws with out breaking the bank 55-60cc range ,we have some nice 400 dollor saws to choose. [of witch I own all 2-3 of some modles] jonsred cs2255 woodsman ,ts price on sale 350 dollors,ussally a good jonsred dealer [mine Comstock-upstate ny] will match the price I have 2 and love them,I have fallen 30inch 170ft high pine-oak-ash-Husqvarna 455 [the 2255 twin] I have 2 they are way underated,don't spend the xtra on the 460, the 455 will do anything the 460 will do,the 460 is overprice dog, the echo 590 timberwolf, 399,99 59,8cc with 5 year warrenty,probley the best buy in chainsaws,mine is awsoom,dolmar prices have come down,[im not a dolmar excpert] but I know they are a good saw,i cant and wont recommend stihl,I know too many loyal stihl guys blowing them up.and having lots of chain tentioner issues,chainsaw consumer reports says the ECHO 600P NUMBER 1 BUY, the husky 455 numb 2, and the 600p echo 59cc puts out 4.5 horse power, the husky 562xp puts out 4,7, wow they get a lot out of a nice small pkg,  there'e some to concider,  enjoy.


----------



## johndams (Jan 3, 2016)

Jazzberry said:


> Echo makes crap and decent saws just like the Stihl and Husky. The trick is to know what model is the good stuff. Unfortunately it seems the new stuff don't work as well as their older twins. Ive had bad luck with Husky but I know the 372 xp model is a great saw. You saying or implying Poulin is a better saw than the Husky or Stihl is laughable.


wow echo makes crap saws,when was the last one you ran,i have a 680-2 590- 2 cs400, all with 5 year warrenty, I never had an echo problem, they make awsoom saws, chainsaw consumer reports ays the echo 600p a 59cc saw is the best saw you can buy, number 1,and they put out 4,5 horse power, I have a 372 xp and a 1987 272 xp, they have been money for me, never a problem,[along with 7 other husky's. but you better run an echo before you run your moth, I never even hear people complain about echo,you don't give junk a 5 year warrenty,you wont last long.i wish my 800 dollor newer 372 xp and 365 xp I just bought had a thumb oiler like my 620 dollor 680 echo that oiler is a great feathure, when your fallen a 34inch oak-hemalock-pine-ash,


----------



## johndams (Jan 3, 2016)

arborealbuffoon said:


> This general topic may well be the most common question in the chainsaw universe. Unfortunately, I have worked on nearly all the brands and models listed in this thread so far. Additionally, it should be noted that I am largely an end user ONLY in the chainsaw marketplace. I do not sell them for $$.
> Stihl, at this point in time, is a great company at marketing. They have followed trends in the marketplace to produce saws aimed at certain price points. In fact, I firmly believe the consumer will get a better value for their dollar buying a box store Poulan.
> Echo is presently gobbling up market share in this area. And for good reason. They make excellent saws, trimmers and blowers that are a very good value. Parts are also readily available. They even group common fuel system wear parts into blister packs called "re-power" kits. Just because Echo hasn't been heralded as "The Worlds Greatest Outdoor Power Equipment" for fifty years does NOT make their products lesser machines.
> It's not my intention to ruffle feathers here. I hope my brutal honesty is not misconstrued. I do,  unpopular as it may be, choose to support The Truth....


ECHO MAKES SOME OF THE BEST CHAINSAWS YOU CAN BUY .CHAINSAW CONSUMER REPORTS SAYS THE ECHO 600P IS NUMBER 1 SAW YOU CAN BUY,59CC AND 4.5 HRS POWER, 5 YEAR WARRENTY, I HAVE 5 ECHOS 2-CS400  2 -590 TIMBERWOLF 59.6CC 399.99 bucks AND A 680 WITH 24INCH BAR,,I HAVE OTHER BRANDS BUT STAYING ON TOPIC,THEY ARE A GREAT COMPANY, ALL THERE SAWS ARE PROFFESS, BUILT,AND THEY STAND BEHIND THEM.


----------



## johndams (Jan 3, 2016)

arborealbuffoon said:


> This general topic may well be the most common question in the chainsaw universe. Unfortunately, I have worked on nearly all the brands and models listed in this thread so far. Additionally, it should be noted that I am largely an end user ONLY in the chainsaw marketplace. I do not sell them for $$.
> Stihl, at this point in time, is a great company at marketing. They have followed trends in the marketplace to produce saws aimed at certain price points. In fact, I firmly believe the consumer will get a better value for their dollar buying a box store Poulan.
> Echo is presently gobbling up market share in this area. And for good reason. They make excellent saws, trimmers and blowers that are a very good value. Parts are also readily available. They even group common fuel system wear parts into blister packs called "re-power" kits. Just because Echo hasn't been heralded as "The Worlds Greatest Outdoor Power Equipment" for fifty years does NOT make their products lesser machines.
> It's not my intention to ruffle feathers here. I hope my brutal honesty is not misconstrued. I do,  unpopular as it may be, choose to support The Truth....


STIHL SUCK SAVE YOUR MONEY, there ms441 and up are good so any of their 1,000 dollor to 1,700 your ok,


----------



## BrotherBart (Jan 3, 2016)

My chainsaw can beat up your chainsaw. Nah Nah Nah.


----------



## jatoxico (Jan 3, 2016)

BrotherBart said:


> My chainsaw can beat up your chainsaw. Nah Nah Nah.


Nuh-uhh!


----------



## Jazzberry (Jan 3, 2016)

lol too stupid


----------



## CTYank (Jan 12, 2016)

johndams said:


> STIHL SUCK SAVE YOUR MONEY, there ms441 and up are good so any of their 1,000 dollor to 1,700 your ok,


Ever look at an IPL or repair manual (stihl makes it difficult to obtain same, natch) for a 441? That'd give you a clear idea why it's so difficult to r&r cyl on one. Put simply- stupidly over-complicated. Forget any price-break, of course.


----------



## StihlKicking (Jan 12, 2016)

I have a Stihl ms261 that i really like. Fits your needs but is over your budget. Maybe you could pick up a used one somewhere. Its got h.p. and weighs in at 11 pounds. It will easily tote a 20" bar.


----------



## D8Chumley (Jan 17, 2016)

johndams said:


> ECHO MAKES SOME OF THE BEST CHAINSAWS YOU CAN BUY .CHAINSAW CONSUMER REPORTS SAYS THE ECHO 600P IS NUMBER 1 SAW YOU CAN BUY,59CC AND 4.5 HRS POWER, 5 YEAR WARRENTY, I HAVE 5 ECHOS 2-CS400  2 -590 TIMBERWOLF 59.6CC 399.99 bucks AND A 680 WITH 24INCH BAR,,I HAVE OTHER BRANDS BUT STAYING ON TOPIC,THEY ARE A GREAT COMPANY, ALL THERE SAWS ARE PROFFESS, BUILT,AND THEY STAND BEHIND THEM.


Guy, there is no need to yell. Pump the brakes a little. I have a 590 and like it a lot. If I were to buy one tomorrow I would probably buy the CS 600 or 620


----------



## Seasoned Oak (May 10, 2016)

IF you have power available consider an electric saw.


----------



## Jazzberry (May 10, 2016)

SergioKurba said:


> I have a Husqvarna 455 Rancher and I believe that it is better than other saws. It has 55,5ss and power while using much less fuel.  And its price is $ 439.99, which is much cheaper Husqvarna 372. In addition, the same bar 20 inches. He found his saw on jonsguide, there is about her excellent reviews




You scored dude. The only one rated higher than that one is a Black and Decker. Probably wouldn't need to spring for the BD unless you are cutting giant redwoods.


----------

