# STOVE CRACKED. Now what?



## woodjack (May 11, 2010)

I went to fire up my stove this morning and I noticed a crack about an inch long on the perimeter of the door cutout - exactly under the handle latch.

After I got the stove going the crack became barely visible - due to the metal expansion. 

Now what? Do I:
- make believe it's not here and continue burning on my merry way as long as it doesn't pose a  problem?
- begin my search to buy a new stove?

It's a Regency 3100 (about 15 years old) that I bought second hand on craigslist. Great stove. I love it and prefer not to replace it, but I don't want to get stuck in the middle of the winter frantically searching for a new stove. I burn 24/7.

Help with suggestions would be enormously appreciated.

- PICs to follow.


----------



## handss (May 11, 2010)

I also got a crack earlier in the winter.  If it does not enlarge as long as no smoke comes out of it I would do nothing.


----------



## fossil (May 11, 2010)

For the time being, you can drill a small (~1/8" or smaller) hole right at the end of the crack, which should keep it from propagating.  Rick


----------



## Bigg_Redd (May 11, 2010)

It's a steel stove, no?  

Friggin' weld it!


----------



## BrotherBart (May 11, 2010)

Bigg_Redd said:
			
		

> Friggin' weld it!



Is that something like Mig welding?


----------



## webbie (May 11, 2010)

Or, if a tiny hairline, do nothing.
clean the inside of it and pop some furnace cement on before the burning season.


----------



## woodjack (May 11, 2010)

Here's what it looks like.
I'm afraid it's going to spread because it's exactly where the handle latches on the stove body. Usually I give it a good strong close, but I didn't think I was strong enough to crack steel. I have a welder, but not much welding experience. Would I weld right along the crack?
I'd be afraid to drill a hole there.

Is this a sign that other parts of my stove may be weak, too?


----------



## webbie (May 11, 2010)

I don't think these things tend to spread. Normally, it is a stress that is relieved by the crack....

Either do nothing...or a bit of furnace cmt on the inside - or get it welded.....or.......
if the inside of it is flat, you can bolt a mending plate back there....just drill a two holes and countersink them on the front, use maybe #8 ss stove bolts (they are harder), and run them through the plate and use nuts on the inside.


----------



## Elderthewelder (May 11, 2010)

Looks like it is already spreading, crack goes out horizontal from cutout than turns downward 90 degrees. Like Fossil said, get a sharp bit 1/8" or so,  and drill the end of that crack, it will stop it from going any further. make sure you drill it at the end/ get a magnifying glass and take a good look

That is a easy fix for a welder, If you do not feel comfortable doing it yourself , hire it out. Should not be too much money.

I do not want to get into any welding specifics, as the last thread about welding got a little out of hand and the mods closed it. But trust me that is a easy fix ( assuming that is sheet/plate steel and not cast)


----------



## fossil (May 11, 2010)

Elderthewelder said:
			
		

> Looks like it is already spreading, crack goes out horizontal from cutout than turns downward 90 degrees. Like Fossil said, get a sharp bit 1/8" or so,  and drill the end of that crack, it will stop it from going any further. make sure you drill it at the end/ get a magnifying glass and take a good look
> 
> That is a easy fix for a welder, If you do not feel comfortable doing it yourself , hire it out. Should not be too much money.
> 
> I do not want to get into any welding specifics, as the last thread about welding got a little out of hand and the mods closed it. But trust me that is a easy fix ( assuming that is sheet/plate steel and not cast)



Elder, I too thought it had turned down, but if you enlarge the first pic & take a close look, I think that downward artifact is something other than part of the crack.  I think a small hole will prevent it from getting longer, and I agree, It's an easy fix for a competent welder.  Rick


----------



## Clarkbar2311 (May 12, 2010)

I'd clean it up and mig weld it. Agree with others, a competent welder will have no issue with that repair.


----------



## woodjack (May 12, 2010)

The crack is not turning down. That's a discoloration.

Here's my barrage of questions:
What's the "_best_" fix (not easiest), drilling a hole or welding?
If I drill a hole do I drill it at the very tip of the crack end, or just past it?
I'd like to try welding it myself if that's the best way to go. Do I just lay a bead along the crack?

Do these cracks tend to be isolated occurances, or a sign that my stove has seen better days, and where's there's one, they'll likely be more?

And finally a thank you. You guys are like cops. When you need them, it sure feels good they're there. You guys are great. I can't thank you guys enough.

Edit: No access to the inside of the crack. There's a steel plate in the way.
Edit 2: It's a steel stove.


----------



## leeave96 (May 12, 2010)

You should drill the hole centered on the end of the crack.

Depending on the metal thickness, you might want to grind out the crack some to get a "V" grove for penetration.

Better to have a crack in steel than cast iron.

Good luck,
Bill


----------



## begreen (May 12, 2010)

If you choose to weld, you will definitely want to grind a vee in the crack before welding, then grind the surface flush so that the door gasket still seals tightly. Is there really no access inside of the stove to the crack? I would think it would help if you could get a small bead on the backside as well.


----------



## woodjack (May 12, 2010)

BeGreen said:
			
		

> If you choose to weld, you will definitely want to grind a vee in the crack before welding, then grind the surface flush so that the door gasket still seals tightly. Is there really no access inside of the stove to the crack? I would think it would help if you could get a small bead on the backside as well.



Grinding a path for the weld is a great idea - but will grinding weaken an already weak area?
No, no access to the back of the crack- there's a thick vertical steel support covering the entire area in the back


----------



## woodjack (May 12, 2010)

fossil said:
			
		

> For the time being, you can drill a small (~1/8" or smaller) hole right at the end of the crack, which should keep it from propagating.  Rick



What about the hole? What would you use to seal it? (no access to back of crack)


----------



## woodjack (May 12, 2010)

Elderthewelder said:
			
		

> I do not want to get into any welding specifics, as the last thread about welding got a little out of hand and the mods closed it. But trust me that is a easy fix ( assuming that is sheet/plate steel and not cast)



I think I'm going to give a try at welding it? Please, please give welding specifics. If I weld, should I drill the hole first or is that not necessary?


----------



## madrone (May 12, 2010)

I'd drill the hole, grind the crack down about half the thickness of the metal, then fill the hole and groove with weld and grind flush. I wouldn't worry about welding from the back, the point of grinding the crack is to get better penetration through to the other side. You'd get another 15 years out of that repair. Iron is weakened by welding, but steel not so much. No worries. What kind of welder are you using?


----------



## Adios Pantalones (May 12, 2010)

grinding, should you go that route, would not weaken the metal, as the weld material will be stronger than the original material.


----------



## oldspark (May 12, 2010)

madrone said:
			
		

> I'd drill the hole, grind the crack down about half the thickness of the metal, then fill the hole and groove with weld and grind flush. I wouldn't worry about welding from the back, the point of grinding the crack is to get better penetration through to the other side. You'd get another 15 years out of that repair. Iron is weakened by welding, but steel not so much. No worries. What kind of welder are you using?


 Not the welder thing again?


----------



## Fsappo (May 12, 2010)

fossil said:
			
		

> For the time being, you can drill a small (~1/8" or smaller) hole right at the end of the crack, which should keep it from propagating.  Rick



Rick, can you type "Make biggerer and more worser" instead of propagating?  Propagating is when my fence door to the back yard wont stay open and a shove a rock under it to prop it open.


----------



## madrone (May 12, 2010)

oldspark said:
			
		

> madrone said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



 :bug: 

In all seriousness, any welder will do it. No opinionating needed on this one. 

I'd use a laser though, if it were my stove. ;-P


----------



## lazeedan (May 12, 2010)

I agree this is an easy fix for  a welder. If you have no or very little experience this may be a very trying repair.


----------



## RonB (May 12, 2010)

It looks like Regency has a lifetime warranty on the firebox from what I read on their site.  Likely, it is for the original owner.  Maybe the original owner would work with you, but that could be a hassle.  Probably easier just to weld it.  If you are unsure what you're doing, pay to get it welded.  Even a regular furnace needs repair/service call from time to time.


----------



## woodjack (May 12, 2010)

RonB said:
			
		

> It looks like Regency has a lifetime warranty on the firebox from what I read on their site.  Likely, it is for the original owner.  Maybe the original owner would work with you, but that could be a hassle.  Probably easier just to weld it.  If you are unsure what you're doing, pay to get it welded.



Just got off the phone with Regency. You're right, they offer a lifetime warranty to the original owner - which I'm not.

Otherwise, they confirmed what all you guys told me. Drill a hole, grind the crack, and smooth it down. He said it's generally a good idea to check around the stove for cracks at the end of the season. 

I was shocked when I first saw the crack and didn't think straight. It's a steel box. Weld where necessary and keep going. I'm going to find an experienced guy to do it. 
Thanks again. I love you guys.


----------



## woodjack (May 18, 2010)

fossil said:
			
		

> For the time being, you can drill a small (~1/8" or smaller) hole right at the end of the crack, which should keep it from propagating.  Rick



Until I finder a welder that shows up I'm taking your advice. In your opinion, is 1/8" the ideal size hole?


----------



## fossil (May 18, 2010)

woodjack said:
			
		

> fossil said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



It'll do.  Drill it all the way through, right at the end of the crack.  If it bugs you, you can even fill it with a dab of furnace cement, it'll still be doing its job so far as the crack is concerned.  Rick


----------

