# Harman P68 Distribution Fan ESP concerns



## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 21, 2015)

I just joined the group after spending hours looking at the great info being shared by everyone.    I have installed a used Harman P68 (S/N 009255) from a gentleman who said he bought it new in 2008.   A little background on the unit.   The previous owner claims he loved the unit and had the control board and igniter changed Dec. 2014 but needed to get rid of it because his elderly uncle couldn't carry pellet bags anymore and replaced it with a propane unit.

After reading manuals and threads I ordered a new "Black" ESP probe yesterday after thinking that is what I need to fix the problem I'm experiencing and looking for confirmation or pointed in a different direction.

In test mode after first firing up the unit all lights and functions work.  Distribution Fan blowing fine, Combustion Fan blowing fine, Feed Motor fine, Igniter fine.  Once the 1st time start up process was followed and I switched to Room Temp, Auto Igniter, an 80 degree setting and 4 on the pellet feed dial the Distribution fan never again came on regardless of how long it ran after I changed all the settings from Room Temp to Stove Temp, auto ignite to manual, feed rate from 4-6 and back again.  Eventually it gave a 5 blink error code but since the igniter lit the fire it couldn't have been the "suggested" problem.

Did I do the right thing by thinking the ESP isn't sensing the exhaust temps and controlling the feed and burn rates?

2nd question:   Does my pellet feed box require a lid switch.   Mine doesn't have one but I see that part offered.


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## alternativeheat (Nov 21, 2015)

I'm questioning exactly what modes you were in here. For instance in Stove temp mode with an output set at 4 or lower you won't get a distribution blower on later model units. And your control board has been changed, just a guess but my  bet is it has the later control board. 

If your stove sensed a misfire by timing out before a flame established that could set the code.

Just For For The Record, we have had people think they were in one mode and actually in another, So :

Room temp is with the dial in the up position for the distribution fan. With the dial turned to the down position is Stove Temp Mode.

The feed rate set to 4 is fine to start with.

I suggest maybe shut down the stove. Unplug and relight it in the mode you want to run in. Obviously start it with the igniter on. Igniter on is Auto. Igniter Off is Manual.

Is the stove running now ?


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 21, 2015)

alternativeheat said:


> I'm questioning exactly what modes you were in here. For instance in Stove temp mode with an output set at 4 or lower you won't get a distribution blower on later model units. And your control board has been changed, just a guess but my  bet is it has the later control board.
> 
> If your stove sensed a misfire by timing out before a flame established that could set the code.
> 
> ...



Thanks for your Reply!

I used the the procedure for "Starting First Fire".  Igniter switch to Auto (up position)  
1 Turn mode selector to OFF
2 Fill hopper with pellets
3 Clean burn pot
4 If starting after an empty hopper, turn Feed Adjuster to "TEST for one 60 second cycle  (I DID THIS AND IN TEST MODE ALL THE FANS RAN FINE)
5 Turn Feed Adjuster to #4
6 Igniter switch in Auto
7 Turn the Temperature Dial to desired room temp.    (I SET IT AT 80 TO TO HAVE IT ABOVE THE #5)
8 Turn Mode Selector to Room Temperature or Stove Temp (I SET IT ON ROOM TEMP)

After going through this pocedure everything was going as i expected and once the pellets moved far enough out on the burn pot they lit just fine and the fire appeared to burn normally for a while.   Waiting for it to warm enough the Distribution Fan never came on while the Combustion Fan, the Feed Motor and Igniter appeared to work fine.   It ran like this for a long time and the flue pipe started to get very hot and the Distribution Fan wouldn't come on no mater was setting I put it at on the L to H portion of the Room Temp setting.   I tried the same in Stove Temp mode thinkig maybe the Room Sensor wasn't working properly.    Same problem.   The Distribution Fan didn't run although it ran fine in "TEST" mode while trying to get first load of pellets to the burn pot.


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## alternativeheat (Nov 21, 2015)

Rockin C&M Wyoming said:


> Thanks for your Reply!
> 
> I used the the procedure for "Starting First Fire".  Igniter switch to Auto (up position)
> 1 Turn mode selector to OFF
> ...


Ok,did the flame ever trim back or ever increase and decrease in intensity ? If it did that I would not suspect the ESP immediately.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 21, 2015)

alternativeheat said:


> Ok,did the flame ever trim back or ever increase and decrease in intensity ? If it did that I would not suspect the ESP immediately.


When the distribution fan never came on I increased the pellet feed rate to the highest setting, I increased the room temp setting to the highest setting thinking that maybe the ESP wasn't reading the temps properly and tried to get it to come on because it sensed we were way low on heat in the room based on the Room Temp setting and what the Room Sensor might be reading.    I did the same thing later that evening in Stove Temp Mode when the Distribution Fan didn't come on even with stove exterior giving off lots of "radiant" heat from the fire burning with the actual room temp being about 68 degrees.   I figured on the Stove Temp Mode setting I would be eliminating the "Room Sensor" from the trouble shooting equation.  When I shut the unit down for the evening I moved the Mode setting to OFF.   The auger stopped feeding but the combustion fan kept running while the fire burned out.  The Distributon Fan never came on during shutdown although the Combustion Fan kept running until the fire was out completely.   I suspected the Combustion Fan would run until the ESP detected a safe temp to shut off the combustion fan.   When the fan ran over an hour and the stove and vent pipe were cold to the touch I had to pull the plug from the surge protected power outlet to shut if off.   When I had turne all the feed rate and temp settings to their highest setting in both Room and Stove Temp modes it did throw the 5 Blink error.   There is no problem with the "Igniter" lighting the fire when I tried starting it in Auto Mode Twice.   
I put 2 day shipping on the black wired ESP I ordered online which should have it here Tuesday or Wednesday since I live in "Way Out Here"  Western Wyoming where my closest Certified Harman Dealer is 125 miles away in Riverton and a five hour drive from where we live.  The two local "Pellet Stove" stores where of no assistance as I asked some of the similar questions discussed here and they had no idea how Harman stoves work or their components.
If the Black Wired ESP fixes the problem I will be ordering a backup ESP and have seen posts that the Red Wired ESP is for the newer P68 stoves and if you have an older unit the Red Wired ESP works if you change the Dip Switch setting for switch #5 from OFF to ON.
Today I pulled the ESP out to check it.  It wasn't coated with anything except a little soot which came off with a paper towel.   I put it back in and tried again.  Same results.  No Distribution Fan running except in TEST Mode
I hope I'm not going into Data Overload.
Thanks for your input.


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## Golfeur (Nov 21, 2015)

5 Flashes (in auto ignition mode only.):
Indicates that the stove could not light up during the cycle
start (36 minutes). To reset it,
set the mode selector to OFF and then select the desired mode again
This looks like a disorder that ESP probe did not detect enough heat to bring the power distribution fan


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## miteclipse (Nov 21, 2015)

Maybe the new control board is set to have the "newer" esp probe but the stove has the original esp. You could try to change the dip switch on the board to off or on.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 21, 2015)

miteclipse said:


> Maybe the new control board is set to have the "newer" esp probe but the stove has the original esp. You could try to change the dip switch on the board to off or on.


Current Dip Switch Settings:   1 on, 2 on, 3 off, 4 off, 5 off, 6 on, 7 on, 8 on.     Since I have the older black wired ESP everything I have read says the control board dip switch should be set to off.   If one has the Red wired ESP the #5 dip switch should be set to ON.    I thought about trying to change the #5 dip switch setting and try it again but I was concerned that "might" create some other problem.   Electronic circuitry can be sensitive and I'm not confident to make too many changes without more specific info that I won't "break" something that wasn't broken by trying too many things.   The circuit board number is B5371A   Handwritten in black magic marker on the front of the board in a couple different spots is "T87",  "A16",  "1194".    I suspect these might be version numbers or features.   I couldn't find any info on these markings.   On a small white label on the board is printed "F5371 AC / E"  and "GEC 121400344".   I have added this data in case someone who is very familiar with this unit might shed some light on the Controller Board.


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## Golfeur (Nov 21, 2015)

disconnect the stove change the dip switch connect the stove and try


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## alternativeheat (Nov 22, 2015)

I wouldn't be trying to heat the house to full potential turning the stove up and all that. I wouldn't run it over output level 4 in Stove temp mode till you get this squared away. Part of the protection for the stove is that distribution fan, it not only distributes heat but is part of the cool regulation to the stove itself along with the ESP.

With that said there are Harman people around the forum here who know more about the dip switch settings between the old and new boards and better than I do. Meanwhile till you get more answers, have you checked the simple things like be sure the distribution fan spins free or that something didn't fall into it ? I know it worked on test mode but that was then and this is now ! Also when the stove is up to a temp when the fan should come on, while you have the back panel off you could check and see if it's getting voltage (You seem like the competent sort who would own a volt meter lol)...

Full shut down I've seen take a half hour on my P61, never an hour and I never have had to unplug the unit. But then again it sounds like you got it pretty hot, so most bets are off on that one.


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## miteclipse (Nov 22, 2015)

on my p68, the distribution fan comes on after it lights, so my combustion/distribution fan buttons are light on the control board. is your distribution fan light on the control board or is it not?


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 22, 2015)

miteclipse said:


> on my p68, the distribution fan comes on after it lights, so my combustion/distribution fan buttons are light on the control board. is your distribution fan light on the control board or is it not?


I've tried to attach a few photos of the fire that started automatically in Auto igniter and the settings on the controls.   I included a photo of the dip switches which are correct to everything I've read.   When I pulled the "Black wired ESP" out to look at it closely I noticed is was slightly bent towards the rear of the exhaust vent.   I've read that they are very sensitive and the way they work with the controller board is through heat generated "resistance" which related to a specific temperature and controls the functions of the unit.   The third photo shows that when the unit was burning fine and for quite some time the "Distribution Blower" never came on.   The Distribution Blower does come on when in TEST mode.    I'm expecting the new ESP to arrive on Tuesday or Wednesday and I will report on whether that addresses and fixes the problem I have reported.    I looked into the Diagnostic Tool but that is over $400 so it doesn't make financial sense to get that unless I decide to become a Certified Harman Technician in this area.  (Just Joking)


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## Harman Lover 007 (Nov 23, 2015)

If the picture of the CB just below the dip switch pic was taken when you had that much fire in the stove, I'd say you are on the right track with the ESP. The igniter should be off by then and it isn't and the Dist blower isn't running. Let us know how you make out with the ESP.


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## alternativeheat (Nov 23, 2015)

I'm going to say if the ESP is bent it's all done ( ruined) !! When you get the new one in , post back and we all can go from there.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 23, 2015)

Harman Lover 007 said:


> If the picture of the CB just below the dip switch pic was taken when you had that much fire in the stove, I'd say you are on the right track with the ESP. The igniter should be off by then and it isn't and the Dist blower isn't running. Let us know how you make out with the ESP.


As much time as I have spent investigating this problem my wife says I now have a PHD in Harman P68 operation.  (<;      I need to understand how things work so I don't become frustrated when "stuff" happens.   Thanks to everyone who chimed in on this issue.   If the ESP solves the problem I suggest to Harman that they add a message to the 5 Blink error about the Igniter not operating for NNN minutes that it can also be caused by an ESP not sensing the temperature.
Harman Lover 007....... The lights on the CB were while the stove was lit as shown in that photo.   I actually recreated this same condition a couple of times as I shut down the stove, pulled the power plug to "reset" the CB as suggested on different error codes and restarted.    I am betting time and money for the ESP that IT is the problem.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 23, 2015)

alternativeheat said:


> I'm going to say if the ESP is bent it's all done ( ruined) !! When you get the new one in , post back and we all can go from there.


Alternativeheat, I will close out this thread with whatever resolves the problem and a big Thanks for everyone who tried to add their knowledge to my data bank.    This site is great.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 24, 2015)

Rockin C&M Wyoming said:


> Alternativeheat, I will close out this thread with whatever resolves the problem and a big Thanks for everyone who tried to add their knowledge to my data bank.    This site is great.


For all those wondering:   Part of the problem was the ESP but not everything.  With everything cleaned out and ready to start again after installing the new black wire ESP I put it in TEST mode to see if all the functions worked.  As before everything said OK in TEST mode.    Once the minute Test Mode was over for all the fans and the feeder I put it in Room Temp mode and let it auto start.   The feeder ran, the combustion fan ran and the igniter ran while the distribution fan was off.  It took a couple of minutes for the flames to start and after a little warm up time with a really nice big flame the Distribution Fan kicked on automatically.  Slow at first and then faster.   After running about 15 minutes I checked the indicator lights and it was showing a three blink error code which is ESP failure requiring a RESET according to the manual.   I turned the mode control to off and once everything had stopped, about 15 seconds I unplugged it for 5 seconds and then plugged it in again.   The status light was steady on and everything was running fine again with the combustion fan, the distribution fan and feed light all working as one would expect with the feeder set on 4 running for about 40 seconds.    After it ran for about another 10 minutes it threw another 3 blink error.   The distribution fan cycles from low speed to high speed and then back to low again.  After resetting it twice to turn off the 3 blink error I tried it in Stove Temp Mode, not Room Temp Mode.   Same condition.   It ran for a lilttle while and then threw the 3 blink code again.  Other than the stove Distribution Fan going from slow speed to higher speed without any change to the knob while the fire remains relatively low and the feeder doesn't run for the 40 seconds once the error code appears.    I am a loss again.
Anyone have an idea.    3 Blink Error Code in both Room Temp and Stove Temp mode with Igniter in Auto.   The new ESP took care of the Distribution Fan running when it wouldn't before but now with the high speed low speed cycling of the Distribution Fan says something isn't right with temp sensing and speed control of fan.   HELP............


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## mikesj (Nov 24, 2015)

I think you may have a bad replacement esp. Very frustrating, but sometimes stuff like that happens. Buy another one and if it fixes the problem take the defective one back. If it turns out the esp isn't bad and something else is wrong you will have a back up. 

I had a similar thing happen a few years ago- apparently Harman was supplied a bad batch of probes.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 25, 2015)

mikesj said:


> I think you may have a bad replacement esp. Very frustrating, but sometimes stuff like that happens. Buy another one and if it fixes the problem take the defective one back. If it turns out the esp isn't bad and something else is wrong you will have a back up.
> 
> I had a similar thing happen a few years ago- apparently Harman was supplied a bad batch of probes.


When I felt I had exhausted all of the settings I could try to help diagnose what is wrong I set the Mode Knob on OFF to see what it would do.  With the  3 Blink error continuing both the Combustion and Distribution fans kept running until the fire was out and the stove was starting to cool down at which time the Distribution Fan stopped while the combustion fan continued and then when it was really cooled down the combustion fan stopped.  At that point the Power light was on and the Status light was still displaying the 3 Blink error.    I unplugged the unit and quit for the evening. 
MikeSJ I was planning on ordering a backup ESP since they appear to be the weak link in so many problems.   I purchased this one at Mountain View hearth products.   Do you or anyone else have a different vendor to purchase a backup ESP from?


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## alternativeheat (Nov 25, 2015)

Rockin C&M Wyoming said:


> When I felt I had exhausted all of the settings I could try to help diagnose what is wrong I set the Mode Knob on OFF to see what it would do.  With the  3 Blink error continuing both the Combustion and Distribution fans kept running until the fire was out and the stove was starting to cool down at which time the Distribution Fan stopped while the combustion fan continued and then when it was really cooled down the combustion fan stopped.  At that point the Power light was on and the Status light was still displaying the 3 Blink error.    I unplugged the unit and quit for the evening.
> MikeSJ I was planning on ordering a backup ESP since they appear to be the weak link in so many problems.   I purchased this one at Mountain View hearth products.   Do you or anyone else have a different vendor to purchase a backup ESP from?


This sounds so familiar to me but my 65 yo mind isn't clearing the issue. I'm pretty sure last year we had a guy or two here who had installed the later board in their P series Harmans that naturally required the red wired ESP. Flipping the dip switches allowed running the black wired ESP but with errors. Not 100% sure on this though. I suggest going back to the serial number on your board and getting the ESP for that board and setting the switch accordingly.. you just might need a red wired ESP depending on that board number.

Edit; You said the convection blower started up slowly. makes me wonder if it has too big of a current draw. Don't ask how this is related except you made gains with the ESP change . So obviously;y there is a connection of some sort here.


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## miteclipse (Nov 25, 2015)

I'm having a hard time finding your P68 model and current circuit board number from the earlier post.

Since it was bought in 2008, the serial number should be :
Pre 008281295 which would require the black ESP Probe, 3-20-11744

However, since a new board from 2014 was installed, that would make it :
Post 008281295 which would require the red ESP Probe, 3-20-00844

Someone else would also need to confirm if this is correct. If this is correct the circuit board dip switch #5 would need to be changed, or you would need the red esp.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 25, 2015)

miteclipse said:


> I'm having a hard time finding your P68 model and current circuit board number from the earlier post.
> 
> Since it was bought in 2008, the serial number should be :
> Pre 008281295 which would require the black ESP Probe, 3-20-11744
> ...


The part number on the ESP Package I received is P3-20-11744 as you stated.    My Owners Manual (original one) shows the Thermister Probe (ESP) as PN 3-20-00744.  Does anyone know the difference between the 11744 and the 00744?   After having the stove off all night I fired it up this morning again and the same conditions happen.  What I just got done watching and noting was the Feeder Motor runs for about 40 seconds (#4 setting) and then the Distribution Fan will go to high speed and run like that for a few minutes and then the Distribution Fan slows down and the Feeder Motor runs for  a 4 or 5 second period.  This longer feed motor run and the shorter feed motor run alternate back and forth over a few minutes with the Distribution Fan cycling between low and high speeds.   During all of this the flame in the burn pot remains nominal the whole time due to a small volume of pellets.   FYI.    The Feeder Motor in this unit is marked as the 4 RPM model.   I saw where there is also a 6 RPM model.   I am so happy this Stove is auxillary heat for the house and the radiant in floor heat is keeping the wife warm and content.


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## miteclipse (Nov 25, 2015)

3-20-11744 replaced 3-20-00744 from what I'm seeing. I'm thinking you need the red esp.

Curious: After the previous owner replaced the board, did they have this issue? I'm beginning to think they did and stopped using it, then sold it (to you)


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## alternativeheat (Nov 25, 2015)

miteclipse said:


> 3-20-11744 replaced 3-20-00744 from what I'm seeing. I'm thinking you need the red esp.
> 
> Curious: After the previous owner replaced the board, did they have this issue? I'm beginning to think they did and stopped using it, then sold it (to you)


And the dip switch in the up position, is what I'm reading. Down for black ( and my previously mentioned 65 yo mind says with sketchy results) or up for red on the new boards.

I'm not up on the timing intervals of the feed motor. but went over some old posts here at the forum and the distribution fan has had issues operating properly correspondingly with ESP issues. So there is a history there be that how accurate, not sure.


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## miteclipse (Nov 25, 2015)

so the test that he needs to do is turn dip switch to up(on) since its currently down (in his picture) and see if that cures the problem because it looks like this new board requires the red esp

or get another black esp as the one he got might be defective


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## alternativeheat (Nov 25, 2015)

miteclipse said:


> so the test that he needs to do is turn dip switch to up(on) since its currently down (in his picture) and see if that cures the problem because it looks like this new board requires the red esp.


He has a black wired ESP, the correct position with the new board is down. The question: Which board does he have ? Most indications I have seen is there is no dip switch for the ESP on older boards, I'm assuming from that he has the updated board since it has a dip switch at all.. But what haunts me is if other people have issues using a black wire ESP on the new board period. What I have read ( no practical experience) is that it won't run at all with the dip switch up and a black wire ESP. My belief, and that is all it is, is that with the new board a red wire ESP is a surer bet. But honestly ? I wish some more folks would chime in here, ones who have been down this exact road !!


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## miteclipse (Nov 25, 2015)

im going to agree that a red esp (if possible to exchange the black esp) and moving the dip switch to up is the best option to go here


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 25, 2015)

miteclipse said:


> 3-20-11744 replaced 3-20-00744 from what I'm seeing. I'm thinking you need the red esp.
> 
> Curious: After the previous owner replaced the board, did they have this issue? I'm beginning to think they did and stopped using it, then sold it (to you)


The only comment when I picked it up was that the control board and igniter were changed do to some "issue".   He said that after the swap the technician believed the igniter was OK so I have the old one as a spare.    Calling him to find out if he had similar problems after the swap and if he retired the stove for a propane stove was immediately after that may or may not help understand the problem.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 25, 2015)

miteclipse said:


> 3-20-11744 replaced 3-20-00744 from what I'm seeing. I'm thinking you need the red esp.
> 
> Curious: After the previous owner replaced the board, did they have this issue? I'm beginning to think they did and stopped using it, then sold it (to you)


The only comment when I picked it up was that the control board and igniter were changed do to some "issue".   He said that after the swap the technician believed the igniter was OK so I have the old one as a spare.    Calling him to find out if he had similar problems after the swap and if he retired the stove for a propane stove was immediately after that may or may not help understand the problem. 

I have the room senser wire plugged into the back of the stove and wonder if there is a possible problem where maybe the room sensor isn't working and the control board is having a problem with the ESP and the Room Temp wire?     Just reaching for possible issues now.   It's not like I can call my local Harman Technician and ask him or her to bring over their diagnostic tool.  Closest Harman dealer is 5 hours away (125 miles) over mountainous passes.    I did try the stove in Stove Temp Mode last night and got the same issues which would suggest it isn't the room temp sensor.


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## miteclipse (Nov 25, 2015)

You have a ESP issue. Is it possible to get the red esp?
3 Blinks:
Indicates that the ESP (Exhaust Sensing Probe)
has failed, has a broken connection, or has gone out of range
too many times. This requires a manual reset*.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 25, 2015)

miteclipse said:


> You have a ESP issue. Is it possible to get the red esp?
> 3 Blinks:
> Indicates that the ESP (Exhaust Sensing Probe)
> has failed, has a broken connection, or has gone out of range
> too many times. This requires a manual reset*.


Miteclipse,   I have reset the 3 Blink error code about 4 times where it clears for a minute or two and then throws the error again.    I don't have access to any "Harman Parts Dealers" locally so everything I purchase has to be online.   I can certainly order a Red wired ESP, wait 7-10 working days for delivery or pay another $29 for two day delivery.   I read somewhere that the probe portion of the Red wired ESP is fatter than the Black wired ESP and requires drilling the hole larger which isn't easy with where it is located.    Is that info accurate about the hole size?    Will the control board I have along with the Dip Switch change to the ON setting work?   I'm not asking if it fixes my current problem, just if it is an approved change or upgrade to my model and serial number stove and current control board?


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## alternativeheat (Nov 25, 2015)

A bad room sensor probe to my understanding sends the stove wacko and includes a 4 blink error. Or certainly a shorted one does. You're testing my memory banks here in this thread !! Seems to me people with bad RTS also had issues running in Stove Temp but it was dependent on what was wrong with the Room temp Probe.

Meanwhile I cleaned my vertical vent, I'm excited !!


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 25, 2015)

alternativeheat said:


> A bad room sensor probe to my understanding sends the stove wacko and includes a 4 blink error. Or certainly a shorted one does. You're testing my memory banks here in this thread !! Seems to me people with bad RTS also had issues running in Stove Temp but it was dependent on what was wrong with the Room temp Probe.
> 
> Meanwhile I cleaned my vertical vent, I'm excited !!


My verticle vents are brand new not requiring cleaning YET.    I wish I had a Harman Stove Problem "Memory Bank" to access so counting all you folks who have been through this before.


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## alternativeheat (Nov 25, 2015)

Try this to see if the error doesn't re appear.. Obviously clear the error. Run the stove in Stove Temp mode Manual ( no igniter) at a heat setting of 3 or even 2. This should run the stove with no convection fan ( room fan). it actually should do it at a setting below 4 but drop it down even more for the sake of it.
 Lets see if you get the 3 blink code back or not..  If you don't my thought is there may be a problem in the convection circuit. It still bothers me that you experienced a slow starting fan.


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## miteclipse (Nov 25, 2015)

Rockin C&M Wyoming said:


> Miteclipse,   I have reset the 3 Blink error code about 4 times where it clears for a minute or two and then throws the error again.    I don't have access to any "Harman Parts Dealers" locally so everything I purchase has to be online.   I can certainly order a Red wired ESP, wait 7-10 working days for delivery or pay another $29 for two day delivery.   I read somewhere that the probe portion of the Red wired ESP is fatter than the Black wired ESP and requires drilling the hole larger which isn't easy with where it is located.    Is that info accurate about the hole size?    Will the control board I have along with the Dip Switch change to the ON setting work?   I'm not asking if it fixes my current problem, just if it is an approved change or upgrade to my model and serial number stove and current control board?


 

I know I was just eliminating the Room Temp Probe for you.
On your original manual, you should have the original circuit board part number. If you provide that number, we may be able to find the original board, and see if there was a replacement part number for it, to try to determine what board you have and compare settings.

I would do the test that alternativeheat suggests. If you no longer get the 3 blink error, then maybe it points as that being the problem. and its causing the other issue.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 25, 2015)

miteclipse said:


> I know I was just eliminating the Room Temp Probe for you.
> On your original manual, you should have the original circuit board part number. If you provide that number, we may be able to find the original board, and see if there was a replacement part number for it, to try to determine what board you have and compare settings.
> 
> I would do the test that alternativeheat suggests. If you no longer get the 3 blink error, then maybe it points as that being the problem. and its causing the other issue.


The original owners manual shows PN 3-20-05374 for the circuit board.   I have the stove off right now since I was getting the snow blower ready for installation my X300 John Deere garden tractor.   I will start it up again and try what alternativeheat suggests.   I will have to start it in Auto Ignite mode since I don't have any starting gel.    Will get back with a response after I go through the process.    Thanks all and Happy Thanksgiving to everyone.    I added two photos that show the Circuit Board number.   It will be interesting to hear how the B5371A that is installed in my stove and the 3-20-05374 compare.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 25, 2015)

alternativeheat said:


> Try this to see if the error doesn't re appear.. Obviously clear the error. Run the stove in Stove Temp mode Manual ( no igniter) at a heat setting of 3 or even 2. This should run the stove with no convection fan ( room fan). it actually should do it at a setting below 4 but drop it down even more for the sake of it.
> Lets see if you get the 3 blink code back or not..  If you don't my thought is there may be a problem in the convection circuit. It still bothers me that you experienced a slow starting fan.


I tried this and here how it went.   I first started the fire in Auto Igniter mode with Room Temp set to 3, Feed Rate set to 4.  The stove went thru what I would say is a normal start up.  Once I had some flame in the burn pot I switched the setting from Auto Igniter to Manual.    As the fire continued to build nicely the feeder appeared to be running normally, after a little while the Igniter light went out, not immediately when I switched to Manual.   The combustion fan was showing as running the whole time and then the feeder started cycling as I would expect to put more pellets in the burn pot.   After a couple of minutes the Distribution Fan came on high and ran a little while then shut off and at that point........... guess what error code came on again.  yepper, the 3 Blink error.    So the stove is in Stove Temp Mode, distribution fan knob is on L, pellet feed rate at 4 and the Temp Dial set at 3.   The Distribution Fan comes on full speed for a while then shuts off.    From everything I read in Stove Temp Mode with a setting below 5 the Distribution Fan isn't supposed to come on.    What did we learn from this test?    I'm at a loss to understand this one.    Auger just ran for about 6 seconds, as soon as it shut off the Distribution fan came on full force.  This sequence just keeps repeating itself where the auger might run for 5 or 6 seconds a couple of times and then the Dist. Fan comes on full force runs for awhile, shuts off completely stays like that through a couple of feeder cycles and then the process repeats.   No igniter light since it is in Manual.   Small but steady fire in burn pot with all the flames near the end of the auger, not further out on the burn pot.


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## Golfeur (Nov 25, 2015)

The black ESP probe is he has a connector at the end and is connected directly to the motherboard if so do you put on the connector on the right side except if it is to connect to the temperature reading going to be false


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## alternativeheat (Nov 25, 2015)

Rockin C&M Wyoming said:


> I tried this and here how it went.   I first started the fire in Auto Igniter mode with Room Temp set to 3, Feed Rate set to 4.  The stove went thru what I would say is a normal start up.  Once I had some flame in the burn pot I switched the setting from Auto Igniter to Manual.    As the fire continued to build nicely the feeder appeared to be running normally, after a little while the Igniter light went out, not immediately when I switched to Manual.   The combustion fan was showing as running the whole time and then the feeder started cycling as I would expect to put more pellets in the burn pot.   After a couple of minutes the Distribution Fan came on high and ran a little while then shut off and at that point........... guess what error code came on again.  yepper, the 3 Blink error.    So the stove is in Stove Temp Mode, distribution fan knob is on L, pellet feed rate at 4 and the Temp Dial set at 3.   The Distribution Fan comes on full speed for a while then shuts off.    From everything I read in Stove Temp Mode with a setting below 5 the Distribution Fan isn't supposed to come on.    What did we learn from this test?    I'm at a loss to understand this one.    Auger just ran for about 6 seconds, as soon as it shut off the Distribution fan came on full force.  This sequence just keeps repeating itself where the auger might run for 5 or 6 seconds a couple of times and then the Dist. Fan comes on full force runs for awhile, shuts off completely stays like that through a couple of feeder cycles and then the process repeats.   No igniter light since it is in Manual.   Small but steady fire in burn pot with all the flames near the end of the auger, not further out on the burn pot.


First of all right after start up you probably are going to get a room fan with the large flame because the ESP senses enough heat it want to cool the stove down a bit. Even when you first switch over to stove temp manual and a lower setting of 3 for heat, the fan may cycle a few times till the actual temp of the stove settles down. However, this should not continue for any great length of time. For instance my P61 right now this minute is running in Stove Temp Manual 3 fan set to low and feed rate three. If I go over and turn the room temp fan up, nothing happens. It's basically heating with radiant heat right now, and at 34 deg outside my house will heat that way Ok.  Much colder and I need to change something or let my oil heat kick in over night..

So what is causing your problem ? Hmmm. I have to think on that. My first thought being the code tripped before the stove ever got off the convection fan mode, I mean as usual with this problem now, that was running when the code set. It kind of fowled the test, we still don't know if it will not trip if the fan never came on.

I'm really surprised our resident by the name of Bioburner hasn't gotten in on this. He knows P68's pretty well..


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## miteclipse (Nov 26, 2015)

did some more research and I'm still leaning towards the ESP and needing a red one, here's why:

Your original board, 3-20-05374, was replaced with 1-00-05886 (B5371A) so you have the right upgraded board. This board appears to have problems with the black ESP.

If you go here: http://www.amazon.com/Harman-Platinum-Control-Board-Shipping/dp/B00IA4T554
view the Q&A's, particularly this one (it says p61 but the main thing is to focus on the board response):

Question:
 What are the dip switch settings to use this on a P61? 
Answer:
The platinum control board here is not designed for the P61 non-auto ignition model- only the P61A auto ignition unit and other auto ignition models. There is a different circuit board for the regular P61. Part# 1-00-06142 - Let us know how we can assist. Thanks, 
By esesstoves on September 30, 2015
 It depends on your manufacture date and which ESP probe you have, settings are different depending on weather you have the red or black probe. The board comes with directions for setting it up for each stove, just make sure to check the color of the wires on your probe and read the notes on the bottom before setting to the default setting listed for your stove. *Also there are a few comments about this board not working properly with the black wired ESP probe, I skipped any potential issues by replacing my black wire ESP probe with a red wire probe, and setting the switches accordingly.* Hope this answers any questions
By Joshua W. on September 30, 2015


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 26, 2015)

miteclipse said:


> did some more research and I'm still leaning towards the ESP and needing a red one, here's why:
> 
> Your original board, 3-20-05374, was replaced with 1-00-05886 (B5371A) so you have the right upgraded board. This board appears to have problems with the black ESP.
> 
> ...


Miteclipse, thanks for your research.   I checked both the links and read it all except I could not fine any "info/drawings" of the various dip switch settings for various conditions.   Since I have the upgraded "red wire compatible" circuit board I am going to order a Red Wire ESP.   Can you tell me if I will have to drill the ESP hole larger based on something I read somewhere else.  The other "concern" I have is there are two different augers, one with a 4 RPM speed and the other with a 6 RPM speed.  I'll assume the 4 RPM auger motor I have is the older one and replaced with the 6 RPM model.   Anyone Know?     

I sent an email to the guy I bought the stove from and he said everything worked fine right up to the day he unplugged it for the propane unit.   He had the stove upgraded with the new circuit board and a new igniter when he was having auto light problems. 

Today I will order the red replacement ESP and I'm going to check every wire on the back of the stove to make sure nothing loosened up in its trip from Evanston Wyoming to our home in Star Valley about 100 miles in the back of my Ram truck.  I've been running (testing) the stove with all the access/safety panels off the back and the wife mentioned it is louder then she expected.  Does the unit quiet down a little with the panels installed and are there any suggestions for steps to quiet motors down.... lubing, insulating?    When WE get this Problem resolved I want to have a celebration toast with everyone who contributed to the information and diagnosis of this issue.    Keeping my fingers crossed that ordering the Red Wired ESP and changing the DIP Switch setting will fix itbut I'm not too confident since the previous owner said everything was working fine with the newer circuit board and the black wired ESP.    Happy Thanksgiving


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## alternativeheat (Nov 26, 2015)

To my knowledge the 4 RPM motor goes to a chain drive P68 auger system. But that's about all I know .
If you come up with good sound deadening let us know. The p series Harmans are not the quietest beasts but it will be a bit quieter with the covers on..

And Happy Thanksgiving to you  as well !


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 26, 2015)

I decided to check all connections behind the stove and checked everything going into the circuit board.   Two wires from the room sensor OK, wire harness connection to circuit board OK,  ESP black wire to circuit board OK, all the component to wire harness OK.   I fired up the stove again to see if my wiggling "stuff" fixed anything.........  Stove fired up just as I would expect but then after a few minutes it threw the 3 blink error again.   I put my finger on the Distribution Fan motor and noticed it was very warm, bordering on hot after just few minutes of running.   I noticed the label said it has Thermal Protection so not worried about the temperature if it has some sort of protection from excessive heat.   Photo attached of that motor and label.


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## Golfeur (Nov 26, 2015)

In test mode the distribution fan operates normally and you constantly


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## Funnydirt14 (Nov 26, 2015)

alternativeheat said:


> To my knowledge the 4 RPM motor goes to a chain drive P68 auger system. But that's about all I know .
> If you come up with good sound deadening let us know. The p series Harmans are not the quietest beasts but it will be a bit quieter with the covers on..
> 
> And Happy Thanksgiving to you  as well !


The pre- 008280309 P68 which you have had the 4 rpm motor. The post- 008280309 P68 has the 6 rpm motor. My stove does not have a chain drive for the auger. I have a 2006 P68 with the 4 rpm motor. At the beginning of this year I replaced the circuit board with the updated version board and changed the dip switches to 1,2 on, 3,4,5 off, 6,7,8 on. I have the black ESP wire and my stove works fine. My instructions with the new circuit board states the Dipswitch #5 is for ESP type. This switch will need to be OFF with any ESP other than Red. So according to the previous post's he has the dipswitches set correctly the same as mine.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 26, 2015)

Funnydirt14 said:


> The pre- 008280309 P68 which you have had the 4 rpm motor. The post- 008280309 P68 has the 6 rpm motor. My stove does not have a chain drive for the auger. I have a 2006 P68 with the 4 rpm motor. At the beginning of this year I replaced the circuit board with the updated version board and changed the dip switches to 1,2 on, 3,4,5 off, 6,7,8 on. I have the black ESP wire and my stove works fine. My instructions with the new circuit board states the Dipswitch #5 is for ESP type. This switch will need to be OFF with any ESP other than Red. So according to the previous post's he has the dipswitches set correctly the same as mine.


Howdy Funnydirt.   In another life I was raised and lived in Allentown Pa for 30 some years.   Retired here in Wyoming in 2002 and love it.   I have heard about "chain drive auger" several times which I'm confused about.    My 4 RPM motor doesn't have an "exposed" chain of any sort.  Does that chain drive live inside the casing behind the motor?    Since you updated your circuit board to the later version and you have the Black Wired ESP and our dip switch settings are the same I don't know why my unit isn't working correctly.    Someone said even though I replaced the ESP with a new black wired unit it might still be bad.   The swap did let the Distribution Fan operate at times without it in test mode but as you have seen in the threads it still is throwing a 3 blink (ESP bad) error.    If I'm looking at the Auger Drive Motor in the three attached photos correctly and it is a "chain drive" is the chain encased in the thin metal box behind the fan and motor?   What a learning experience I am going through.


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## Bioburner (Nov 26, 2015)

Heres a copy of the dip switch settings that came with a new board last fall. We will try and get them set right and go from there.
Somehow this didn't post last night
I would be concerned about the fan motor getting hot that quick


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## Funnydirt14 (Nov 26, 2015)

There is no chain on our stoves. I think someone has ours stoves confused with another model of Harman. And off the top of my head I don't know what models they were, but anyhow it's not our model. I looked at my circuit board part # 3-20-05886E which is the new revision. There was a sticker on the back of the circuit board with this #.  I'm not positive, but I think the only thing that was updated on these board from the old boards was the feature where if you are using a UPS back-up for power outages, the new board senses a power loss if your power goes out and starts shut down procedure of the stove. While shutting down the stove will run the fans until your UPS runs out of back up power, which is normally 45 mins. to an hour.


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## Funnydirt14 (Nov 26, 2015)

Bioburner said:


> Heres a copy of the dip switch settings that came with a new board last fall. We will try and get them set right and go from there.
> Somehow this didn't post last night
> I would be concerned about the fan motor getting hot that quick


Bioburner, They are the same instruction I received with my new board.


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## Golfeur (Nov 26, 2015)

I think the p series of models harman there has never been a drive chain is another model of harman who has already had a training harman advance system, harman Accentra or xxv remember which one


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## mikesj (Nov 26, 2015)

MikeSJ I was planning on ordering a backup ESP since they appear to be the weak link in so many problems.   I purchased this one at Mountain View hearth products.   Do you or anyone else have a different vendor to purchase a backup ESP from?[/QUOTE]

I'm sorry- I don't know any vendors other than my local stove shop.

I really do think that once you get this esp thing figured out you will be thrilled with this stove.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 26, 2015)

mikesj said:


> MikeSJ I was planning on ordering a backup ESP since they appear to be the weak link in so many problems.   I purchased this one at Mountain View hearth products.   Do you or anyone else have a different vendor to purchase a backup ESP from?



I'm sorry- I don't know any vendors other than my local stove shop.

I really do think that once you get this esp thing figured out you will be thrilled with this stove.[/QUOTE]
Having ordered a Red Wired ESP today with a three business day delivery I'm hoping that by next Tuesday or Wednesday with the Red Wire Updgrade and changing Dip Switch 5 to ON that my P68 runs as it should.   So many disappointments so far that I will try to remain optomistic but that AIN'T easy.    I appreciate everyone who has contributed to this thread with their experiences and knowledge.


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## miteclipse (Nov 27, 2015)

The red esp should fit with no problem. If not just drill the hole out a little at a time but you should be ok


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Nov 27, 2015)

miteclipse said:


> The red esp should fit with no problem. If not just drill the hole out a little at a time but you should be ok


Thanks.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 1, 2015)

Rockin C&M Wyoming said:


> Thanks.


OK folks here is some more bad news.    The new RED Wired ESP fit the hole just fine and installed easily after all my practice with the black wired ESP.   I flipped the DIP Switch #5 to the ON position as indicated for the RED wired ESP and then plugged the unit in with the lower right knob in the OFF position with feed rate set at 4, not TEST.   The temperature knob was set at the #5 or about 75 degrees.    The combustion and distribution fan immediately started running and in about 8 seconds the status light gave the 3 Blink ESP error.   Ugggg, no, no no, it's supposed to work now.    With the NEW Black Wired ESP #5 OFF, the power light came on with what sounded like a quick fan test and then nothing happened until I turn the feed knob to TEST which fired up the Distribution Fan, the Combustion Fan, the feeder for about 40 seconds and I think the ignition light for a moment.   Once I took it out of TEST mode and put it in Room Temp mode with a fan speed set close to the L, not the H it would go through the start up process just fine.   Once the fire was started nicely, the probe sensed the heat the "ignition" light turned off and it would start running normally for a minute or two and then it would throw the 3 Blink error.   It did this in Room Temp or Stove Temp mode in Auto Ignition or Manual.   No settings with the NEW black wired ESP would not throw the 3 Blink error after a little while.    I let the stove run for several hours with the three blink error being displayed and the only thing the stove would do is keep the flame low and cycle the Distribution Fan from low to high every few minutes continuously.   With the NEW Red Wired ESP installed and the Dip Switch Set to ON when plugged in both the Combustion and Distribution Fans started running immediately and a few seconds later threw the 3 Blink error as I said above.   Help/Help/Help.............. Close to pulling out my hair after waiting and paying for 2 and 3 day deliveries for the ESPs.     Are there a set of dip switch settings I need to try beside the 1&2 - ON,  3&4 - OFF, 5,6,7&8 - ON  ???   My 2008 P68 has the 4 RPM feed auger motor.      Anxiously awaiting a reponse.


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## Golfeur (Dec 1, 2015)

Make sure that the connector on the sensor which is esp connect to the control card is connect in the right direction if the temperature information that is sent to the processor has the opposite and gives information that the probe is in esp apart from its range of temperature


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## Golfeur (Dec 1, 2015)

it is not for nothing that the two strand of thread of the probe esp there is one that is coded red white and the other is red


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 1, 2015)

Golfeur said:


> it is not for nothing that the two strand of thread of the probe esp there is one that is coded red white and the other is red


The connector on the end of the red wired ESP can only plug into the port on the circuit board one way.


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## Golfeur (Dec 1, 2015)

If the connection of the esp probe is connected you can remove the electronic card and check if there is no weld crack on the electronic board.
I think when you turn on your stove until the igniter is one processor does not check the temperature of the probe since the stove begins to turn but the ignition cycle after the igniter will turn off and at this time the safety esp becomes the probe and if the contact is not good or welding to break the processor receives a temperature off range and stops on 3 flashes


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 1, 2015)

Golfeur said:


> If the connection of the esp probe is connected you can remove the electronic card and check if there is no weld crack on the electronic board.
> I think when you turn on your stove until the igniter is one processor does not check the temperature of the probe since the stove begins to turn but the ignition cycle after the igniter will turn off and at this time the safety esp becomes the probe and if the contact is not good or welding to break the processor receives a temperature off range and stops on 3 flashes


I have closely looked at the circuit board on both sides and can't notice anything that looks abnormal.   I reset all the connections for the wire harness, the room sensor and the EXP.   Those are the only connections to the circuit board that are user moveable.    I would like someone to see if I have all the Dip Switches set correctly based on my newer circuit board, the Red Wired ESP, the 4 RPM feed motor and my altitude of 6400 feet above sea level where the stove is supposed to function.


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## Golfeur (Dec 1, 2015)

for the motor rpm 4 I do not think that's your trouble the only thing that can happen is that your stove can give less btu


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## Golfeur (Dec 1, 2015)

did you try to disconnect your ambient temperature probe and try to light the stove in automatic temperature stove to see if there are still 3 flashes


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 1, 2015)

Golfeur said:


> did you try to disconnect your ambient temperature probe and try to light the stove in automatic temperature stove to see if there are still 3 flashes


Just tried that and it works the same with both the Distribution and Combustion Fan running and then the 3 blink error code showing.   I am leaning toward the fact I either have the dip switches on my circuit board set incorrectly or the circuit board is bad and needs to be replaced.


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## alternativeheat (Dec 2, 2015)

Rockin C&M Wyoming said:


> Just tried that and it works the same with both the Distribution and Combustion Fan running and then the 3 blink error code showing.   I am leaning toward the fact I either have the dip switches on my circuit board set incorrectly or the circuit board is bad and needs to be replaced.


I'm leaning towards a bad board but must admit, doing so as I rub my chin whiskers.


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## miteclipse (Dec 2, 2015)

Your dip switches are set correctly according to the PDF that BioBurner provided. Maybe try blowing the circuit board with a can of compressed air? I would hate to see you have to buy a new board

$210 is the cheapest I've found so far:
http://nevelsstoves.com/1-00-05886-harman-control-board.html


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## Golfeur (Dec 2, 2015)

verify tester for outlets and checks for polarity, grounding


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 2, 2015)

Golfeur said:


> verify tester for outlets and checks for polarity, grounding


Golfeur,    I checked all that before I installed the surge protector (2160 joules) for the stove to plug into.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 2, 2015)

alternativeheat said:


> I'm leaning towards a bad board but must admit, doing so as I rub my chin whiskers.


Yours and my chin whiskers are getting a work out and after I saw what happened when I installed the New Red Wired ESP, set Dip Switch #5 to on and plugged it in I was starting that process with a smile, and when both fans came on immediately and then the 3 Blink monster attacked I wanted to scream out Houston, "We Have a Problem".


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## Golfeur (Dec 2, 2015)

If you want to try unplugging the distribution motor and try to turn on your automatic stove for when the igniter going out if you still have the problem.
maybe the distribution fan takes too much current to and causes this trouble


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 2, 2015)

miteclipse said:


> Your dip switches are set correctly according to the PDF that BioBurner provided. Maybe try blowing the circuit board with a can of compressed air? I would hate to see you have to buy a new board
> 
> $210 is the cheapest I've found so far:
> http://nevelsstoves.com/1-00-05886-harman-control-board.html


miteclipse,   I did that early on in this diagnostic process.   The board is very clean and all the connectors were "reseated".    Unless someone can suggest something else I think I'm going to order a NEW Circuit Board later today or tomorrow.    It won't be long and my great purchase of a used Harman for a really good price will be like..............Damn, I should have bought a new one with the warranty.    After the circuit board purchase I will still be nicely ahead of the game, but if I have to change out the auger and motor along with any of the fans................I didn't do well.     Even at the young age of 70 I guess we can all learn lessons of life.  (<:


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## miteclipse (Dec 2, 2015)

how about plugging the stove directly into a wall outlet and see what happens.  Maybe the surge protector is causing the issue.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 2, 2015)

miteclipse said:


> how about plugging the stove directly into a wall outlet and see what happens.  Maybe the surge protector is causing the issue.


I did that with both the Black Wired and Red Wired ESP as I was trying to remove every possible variable I had control of.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 2, 2015)

Rockin C&M Wyoming said:


> miteclipse,   I did that early on in this diagnostic process.   The board is very clean and all the connectors were "reseated".    Unless someone can suggest something else I think I'm going to order a NEW Circuit Board later today or tomorrow.    It won't be long and my great purchase of a used Harman for a really good price will be like..............Damn, I should have bought a new one with the warranty.    After the circuit board purchase I will still be nicely ahead of the game, but if I have to change out the auger and motor along with any of the fans................I didn't do well.     Even at the young age of 70 I guess we can all learn lessons of life.  (<:


I just checked your link for the new Circuit Board and they are OUT OF STOCK.


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## alternativeheat (Dec 2, 2015)

Rockin C&M Wyoming said:


> I did that with both the Black Wired and Red Wired ESP as I was trying to remove every possible variable I had control of.


If you pop out the board, unplug the red wires and just plug in the black, flip the dip switches I wonder if Now The Black Wired sensor will do the same as the red is doing. Not install the black but just plug it back in. With all the pulling of wires etc and if something is loose in the board it might. Just a method of proofing .


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## Golfeur (Dec 2, 2015)

did you try what I mentioned in the post 69


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## miteclipse (Dec 2, 2015)

also look at the ground connection (green wires) above the distribution fan, make sure they are clean and not loose


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 2, 2015)

alternativeheat said:


> If you pop out the board, unplug the red wires and just plug in the black, flip the dip switches I wonder if Now The Black Wired sensor will do the same as the red is doing. Not install the black but just plug it back in. With all the pulling of wires etc and if something is loose in the board it might. Just a method of proofing .


Does the ESP have to be "grounded" by being screwed down in the exhaust pipe when it is plugged into the circuit board.   I don't want to ruin a perfectly good Black Wired ESP by somehow shorting it out.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 2, 2015)

alternativeheat said:


> If you pop out the board, unplug the red wires and just plug in the black, flip the dip switches I wonder if Now The Black Wired sensor will do the same as the red is doing. Not install the black but just plug it back in. With all the pulling of wires etc and if something is loose in the board it might. Just a method of proofing .


Does the ESP have to be "grounded" by being screwed down in the exhaust pipe when it is plugged into the circuit board.   I don't want to ruin a perfectly good Black Wired ESP by somehow shorting it out.


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## alternativeheat (Dec 2, 2015)

Rockin C&M Wyoming said:


> Does the ESP have to be "grounded" by being screwed down in the exhaust pipe when it is plugged into the circuit board.   I don't want to ruin a perfectly good Black Wired ESP by somehow shorting it out.


If you have a jumper wire you can put one end on the black esp clip and the other to the mounting screw of the red wire. I'm just thinking out loud, I'd think nothing of doing this, used to do that sort of stuff on heavy trucks all the time, never fried anything LOL !


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 2, 2015)

alternativeheat said:


> If you pop out the board, unplug the red wires and just plug in the black, flip the dip switches I wonder if Now The Black Wired sensor will do the same as the red is doing. Not install the black but just plug it back in. With all the pulling of wires etc and if something is loose in the board it might. Just a method of proofing .


Last night after the red wired ESP gave me a new problem with both fans starting and the 3 blink error almost immediately I pulled the plug, reseated every wire with a connector including he wiring harness to the circuit board, the room temp and the esp.   Plugged it back in and everything was the same.   I even tried flipping the #5 dip switch to off with the red wire esp and that didn't work at all, immediately threw the 3 blink at me.    

FYI to all following this thread.    I have ordered a new Circuit Board with two day delivery.    The only other electronic component not replaced will be the Room Sensor which is the cheapest.    I'll wait on that since I can run the unit in Stove Temp Mode which ignores the room temp. sensor.     I believe I have ordered the latest greatest can't fail circuit board and it will resolve every problem I have had with the stove.   For a moment I said to myself:   "Self, order each of the fans and the auger and motor making it a complete rebuild" then I remembered Christmas is coming and I should save some of those orders for Santa to bring.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 2, 2015)

miteclipse said:


> also look at the ground connection (green wires) above the distribution fan, make sure they are clean and not loose


I checked those when I pulled the Distribution Fan off yesterday to make sure it was clean and to retrieve the ESP hold down screw I dropped in the fan blades.   All the green wires appear to be tight under one screw and not frayed


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 2, 2015)

alternativeheat said:


> If you have a jumper wire you can put one end on the black esp clip and the other to the mounting screw of the red wire. I'm just thinking out loud, I'd think nothing of doing this, used to do that sort of stuff on heavy trucks all the time, never fried anything LOL !


I will try this when I get back inside after I spend some "chilly" time outside (15 degrees) with a survey team marking some boundaries on our property.  

Again, I would like to thank everyone who has taken the time and interest in trying to help me through this problem.   I know we will get it resolved and can all celebrate to the team success.


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## miteclipse (Dec 2, 2015)

hopefully the new board comes in sooner!


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 2, 2015)

miteclipse said:


> hopefully the new board comes in sooner!


I'll let everyone know when the new board is supposed to arrive.   UPS doesn't ever get to our place before 6 or 7 PM on the delivery day scheduled so I'm hoping I'm installing it Friday evening if the company can get it shipped today.


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## miteclipse (Dec 2, 2015)

Also the new board should come with dip switch settings paper. I'm not sure if it is the same as the one in this thread, it should be.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 2, 2015)

miteclipse said:


> Also the new board should come with dip switch settings paper. I'm not sure if it is the same as the one in this thread, it should be.


I think I saw photos of what ships and it showed some dip switch setting paperwork which looks the same that someone posted on here for me.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 2, 2015)

Rockin C&M Wyoming said:


> I think I saw photos of what ships and it showed some dip switch setting paperwork which looks the same that someone posted on here for me.


I have been notified that the new circuit board has shipped 2 day air.   Now I sit and wait until the new board shows up and I try that solution.   I will post when it arrives, is installed and how it all goes.    Keep your fingers crossed that this is the end of the problem.


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## Funnydirt14 (Dec 2, 2015)

Just a little tip on your new board install. Don't know if you noticed on your control panel front (metal front that attaches to circuit board). There is a knock out where the dip switches would show thru the front. You can cut the decal around the knock out and remove the knock out for easy access to the dip switches when you assemble the board to the control panel front. Then you can use a piece of electrical tape to cover it up till you need it again. Much easier than disassembling the board from the front when changing dip switch settings like the ESP.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 2, 2015)

Funnydirt14 said:


> Just a little tip on your new board install. Don't know if you noticed on your control panel front (metal front that attaches to circuit board). There is a knock out where the dip switches would show thru the front. You can cut the decal around the knock out and remove the knock out for easy access to the dip switches when you assemble the board to the control panel front. Then you can use a piece of electrical tape to cover it up till you need it again. Much easier than disassembling the board from the front when changing dip switch settings like the ESP.


Thanks for the info Funnydirt.   I noticed that metal cutout piece on the panel front when I took it off and changed the dip switch setting for the red wired ESP. I used a needle nosed plier and took the piece out and cut the membrane on the front so I could change the dip switches without removing the board.   I will take your advice to cover the opening with a piece of black electrical tape to protect it and make it look a little cleaner when I put the new board in.
	

		
			
		

		
	





	

		
			
		

		
	
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## mikesj (Dec 2, 2015)

Just got caught up on this thread. I will keep my fingers crossed that the new board fixes things for you. It's what I would replace next...

When you were doing all of this work you didn't happen to see any signs of gremlins, did you? That would explain a lot.


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 3, 2015)

mikesj said:


> Just got caught up on this thread. I will keep my fingers crossed that the new board fixes things for you. It's what I would replace next...
> 
> When you were doing all of this work you didn't happen to see any signs of gremlins, did you? That would explain a lot.


If the new circuit board doesn't fix the problem I will have an Exorcist come out to get rid of the "gremlins".


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 4, 2015)

As I sit here waiting for the UPS truck to show up with my new circuit board I'm looking at the old circuit board I have removed.    I removed the wiring harness plug connector, the Red Wired ESP and the two wires for the Room Sensor,   Can anyone tell me if the Room Sensor wires have a polarity I have to worry about or does either wire attach to the two connectors on the board without harm
	

		
			
		

		
	








	

		
			
		

		
	
 .   I haven't been able to find any info on this.


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## Golfeur (Dec 4, 2015)

It did not matter to the room sensor


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## Golfeur (Dec 4, 2015)

I hope that your disorder'll be set with the new control board


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 4, 2015)

Golfeur said:


> It did not matter to the room sensor


So let me clarify what you are saying Golfeur.     On the back of the circuit board it doesn't matter which wire that comes from the room sensor plug on the back of the stove I plug on either of the two room sensor posts on the circuit board and likewise it doesn't matter which wire on the Room Sensor Wire I plug to either port on the back of the stove.   If that is true it is Fool Proof.


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## Golfeur (Dec 4, 2015)

Yes


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## Golfeur (Dec 4, 2015)

If you notice in the back of the stove or you connected the temperature sensor there is no indication so it makes no difference


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## Rockin C&M Wyoming (Dec 4, 2015)

CELEBRATION FOLKS!!   All systems functioning as expected after the new Circuit Board was installed.   I want to thank everyone for all the excellent input on how to resolve the issues I experienced with this P68 stove.   I know I learned a great deal about the operation of this stove and I am hoping that some of you picked up a little bit of knowledge based on the problems and error codes I was experiencing.    If you gave me your 2 cents and you happen to be around the town square in Jackson Wyoming during the summer look for an old geezer riding his horse Thunder, wearing a white uniform shirt, a straw cowboy hat and carrying a police radio.   I ride with the Citizens Mounted Unit of the Jackson Police Department as a volunteer and I would be happy to buy you a beverage of your choice for your help.   Thanks again guys.  Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all of you.


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## Golfeur (Dec 4, 2015)

Happy works for you.
It is a pleasure to troubleshoot with you.
You are resourceful
Thank you I have learned things too
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year


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## Harman Lover 007 (Dec 5, 2015)

A beautiful sight indeed.....


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## Funnydirt14 (Dec 5, 2015)

Hoooraayyyy!!


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## miteclipse (Dec 5, 2015)

This is great. You have a few extra esp but that is ok. Merry Christmas as well


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## mikesj (Dec 5, 2015)

Excellent! Enjoy the heat!


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## alternativeheat (Dec 5, 2015)

Nice !!


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