# My Journey with a Castle Serenity Pellet Stove.



## GT_Sharp (Mar 7, 2015)

Well the journey has begun. I've been heating my shop, approximately 650 sf, for the last 7 years with electric heat. Made the decision to go with wood pellet heat about a month and a half ago and have been doing some research. Narrowed the search down to 2 possibilities. The Castle Serenity and the PelPro PP60. Went with the Castle Serenity .  I at first tried to acquire one thru Ace Hdwe using their 15% off coupon and they cancelled the order after about a week and a half . stewed about that for a day and just went ahead ordered it thru Home Depot. Supposed to be delivered to store on 3-16 or 17. Went ahead and installed the exhaust vent using the measurements given in the Serenity pdf manual. Bought the Selkirk vent kit off ebay. Have never used Selkirk before, it seems sufficient, time will tell. 
Have been heating with wood pellets in our residence since '92. Using a Quadrafire Classic Bay 1200 right now, bought new 2 -1/2 years ago. Has been trouble free with the exception of mistakenly dumping a taped up bag of pellets into the hopper last winter and having to clean out the floor trash from the auger that someone put in the bag .

Anyways, I'll try to document this journey as it goes in the hopes it will benefit some.
Here's the exhaust vent install:


----------



## Lake Girl (Mar 9, 2015)

What kind of shop?  Any chance of nasty vapours from fuels and code calls for it being 18" (I think) off the floor.  OAK hook-up is mandatory too.  May want to check local by-laws if they have more specifics...


----------



## GT_Sharp (Mar 10, 2015)

Lake Girl said:


> What kind of shop?  Any chance of nasty vapours from fuels and code calls for it being 18" (I think) off the floor.  OAK hook-up is mandatory too.  May want to check local by-laws if they have more specifics...


Interesting. Do you have any links that would provide more info?


----------



## Lake Girl (Mar 10, 2015)

NFPA 211, 2013 edition.  Costs to download but you may be able to find it at your local library...


----------



## GT_Sharp (Mar 17, 2015)

Just a quick note: my son and I went and picked up the Serenity last evening at the HD. At approximately 200 #'s, was easy to pick up and slide into the back of his van. Will explain in more detail later, but for now, I am super impressed with this little guy! No OAK as of yet but it is in the plan. Left the voltages at default and left the draft at just a wee bit over half open. Flame burns between 4 to 6" above burn pot on Manual-1 with Lignetic pellets.
I was starting to have a few doubts that it might put out too much heat after some reading here and other reviews but am very satisfied with it's performance!
More to come, stay tuned .


----------



## GT_Sharp (Mar 17, 2015)

Sittin' in the shop burnin' the stove at Manual-4 trying to get a little of the stink burned off. Pulled the batteries in the alarm as I figure if I can smell it, the alarm can . Hoping to put the batteries back in later this evening. I did want to mention to those that might be concerned, my stove was attached to the shipping pallet with only 2 brackets at the rear and one of those was broke and the other was almost ripped out of the pallet. So I'm confident the stove got jostled around a bit during transport. No visual evidence when picking up the stove but once getting it home and removing the cardboard surround it was evident. A little paint rubbed off the bottom left edge, no big deal for me but for those that are in to aesthetics it might be worth removing the cardboard (easy) at the store and dealing with the situation there. I find it hard to believe that it wasn't attached on all four corners though .
I'm extremely pleased with the stove, it is a performer! Nice healthy flame at Manual-4, it kicks. Oh, I just kicked it up to 5 (high) with the remote , the manual says it's an option but it came with it. At first I thought it was a little over the top but I can see where it might prove useful, in the shop anyways. 
Well, I'll share more thoughts on this lil' Gem as time goes on.


----------



## rich2500 (Mar 18, 2015)

Glad your happy with it so far, keep us posted on your thoughts.


----------



## GT_Sharp (Mar 24, 2015)

Sunday I decided to seal the exhaust vent to pipe connection. I think it was Lakegirl that suggested this tip in another thread. Anyways, got it at HD and so far so good. Seemed to notice a positive difference right away.


----------



## Pelleting In NJ (Mar 24, 2015)

Can you post a bunch of pictures of the inside guts of this stove?


----------



## GT_Sharp (Mar 24, 2015)

Pelleting In NJ said:


> Can you post a bunch of pictures of the inside guts of this stove?


Sure, be glad to. Just hope waiting a few days works for you. I'll try to install an OAK this weekend and will be pulling the stove out away from the wall at that time which leaves it easy enough to remove the necessary panels to get some inside pix. 
    Been using it everyday here in the shop so hoping for a dry wknd day to install the OAK. And besides I have some parts to acquire and also fabricate for the OAK so the weekend works for me and hope it works for you.


----------



## Lake Girl (Mar 24, 2015)

GT_Sharp said:


> Lakegirl that suggested this tip


Just passing on the tip I got from Bioburner


----------



## GT_Sharp (Mar 25, 2015)

chickenman said:


> If you haven't bought the bits you should install a balanced flue like we have.  Would work perfect on a Serenity and give you 10% improved efficiency.  Plus you don't needa second hole in your wall.



Okay, you have my attention. I'm all eyes & ears. I already have all the bits laying around, i.e., pipe, wall thimble material, etc.. ...but am always open to a project that makes things more functional.
Did a search here on the forum for 'balanced flue' and was only able to come up with info regarding closing off air intake on lower base of stove. Still a 'lil vague  for my limited imagination. Would you be willing to provide some links or a little more info pertaining to your 'balanced flue' design?
Thanks!


----------



## Lake Girl (Mar 25, 2015)

chickenman said:


> If you haven't bought the bits you should install a balanced flue like we have.  Would work perfect on a Serenity and give you 10% improved efficiency.  Plus you don't needa second hole in your wall.



Has your's gone through testing for approval in the US?  I know they sit pretty tight against the building so you would have to check NFPA & local codes to see if it complies...


----------



## rich2500 (Mar 25, 2015)

I believe this is chickenmans vent he is referring to.
http://www.fireflamestoves.com/Accessories.htm


----------



## Pelleting In NJ (Mar 25, 2015)

Or this "single hole" thimble/OAK
http://www.woodlanddirect.com/3-inc..._a_7c2594655&gclid=CNb1ovORxMQCFY-HaQod_ZkAoQ


----------



## GT_Sharp (Mar 25, 2015)

rich2500 said:


> I believe this is chickenmans vent he is referring to.
> http://www.fireflamestoves.com/Accessories.htm


Thanks for the link, rich2500. That is quite the piece of engineering. Quite a bit more involved than I'm willing to try to fabricate, . And at current pellet prices here it would take 15+ ton to realize the 10% efficiency savings if purchased the one at that link plus start all over with my venting . Right now I'm vertical 4' inside then out. We'll see what chickenman responds with. Really appreciate you taking the time to post that link, great info!



> Or this "single hole" thimble/OAK
> http://www.woodlanddirect.com/3-inc..._a_7c2594655&gclid=CNb1ovORxMQCFY-HaQod_ZkAoQ


I looked at those when first considering options with venting and it appeared to me at the time that one would still need to cut the 2 holes for the fresh air, plus, even though that aluminum foil stuff is legal, I don't like it. If ever the stove did vent 'out' the intake I would prefer something more secure than foil. At my age I have enough trouble sleepin' at night .
Thank you for posting the link Pelleting In NJ.


----------



## Old Spartan (Mar 25, 2015)

Is the intake drawing at the cap "box" ???

Any danger of pulling the exhaust into the FA intake ?? 

If so would that limit O2 to feed the fire ??

OR am I missing something basic.


----------



## 3650 (Mar 25, 2015)

Harman has some similar. Much smaller. I just used 3" ridged aluminum dryer vent. I found I at menards. They have all the bends too. 45's, 90's etc. They have 3' runs and I just cut them to desired lengths. It worked out great. Its much heavier then the flex dryer vents. I think I have $14 invested.


----------



## GT_Sharp (Mar 25, 2015)

chickenman said:


> Clearance to the outer tube to combustibles is 1" as the pipe barely gets warm.  So all you need is a single 7" hole through you wall.  So simple....


Well, you definitely got me thinking about this! It appears the general concept is to preheat the combustion air. With that in mind; if putting another hole in the wall was no big deal, would it work in a vertical arrangement with inlet at the bottom and outlet at the top of the chamber? I'm not totally against pulling my stove out further but I'd rather put another hole in the wall if getting approximately the same results .


----------



## bogieb (Mar 26, 2015)

GT_Sharp said:


> If ever the stove did vent 'out' the intake I would prefer something more secure than foil. At my age I have enough trouble sleepin' at night .
> Thank you for posting the link Pelleting In NJ.



I'm thinking if it ever gets so far as to try to vent out the OAK, you have way more problems than the aluminum flexible pipe not holding up (since I see no reason it wouldn't hold up to just smoke and maybe a bit of heat).


----------



## GT_Sharp (Mar 26, 2015)

chickenman said:


> Like this?


Sorta. Sure appreciate you sharing this info! I'll do up a sketch of what I was thinkin' and submit it for your review. Might not be today, forsee a full day at work and giggin' tonite.
Thanks again!


----------



## GT_Sharp (Mar 26, 2015)

bogieb said:


> I'm thinking if it ever gets so far as to try to vent out the OAK, you have way more problems than the aluminum flexible pipe not holding up (since I see no reason it wouldn't hold up to just smoke and maybe a bit of heat).


Well, you got me there . Just a personal thang, no scientific facts to back up how I feel about it.


----------



## Don2222 (Mar 26, 2015)

Hello

Balanced Flue in this country is Selkirk Direct Vent. 
See my install pics of it here
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...-pellet-stove-hearth-for-garage.104197/page-3


----------



## GT_Sharp (Mar 28, 2015)

Don2222 said:


> Hello
> 
> Balanced Flue in this country is Selkirk Direct Vent.
> See my install pics of it here
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...-pellet-stove-hearth-for-garage.104197/page-3


Thanks a bunch for the link! Enjoyed it!


----------



## GT_Sharp (Mar 28, 2015)

chickenman said:


> I am away on business for the mext 3 days. Delivering a stove 700 miles, plus other irrigation stuff.


Thanks for the heads up.Still no sketch done. Still like the idea of diy so am still scheming.


----------



## GT_Sharp (Mar 28, 2015)

Pelleting In NJ said:


> Can you post a bunch of pictures of the inside guts of this stove?


Wasn't going to pull the stove out today so just pulled the side panels and got the best shots I could. Hope it helps. With the downloadable manual for reference, these should make sense.
Have a great weekend!


----------



## fcat (Mar 29, 2015)

I just joined today after reading up on Pellet Stoves for the last couple of months. GT Sharp, i just did the exact same as you, ordered the Castle Serenity from ACE using a 15% off coupon, they cancelled the order an hour later. I tried ordering it again with the code but it no longer worked! I found another code for 15% discount,  ordered again and they havent cancelled yet!, fingers crossed. if all else fails i'll do the same and get it from HD.


----------



## Old Spartan (Mar 29, 2015)

fcat said:


> I just joined today after reading up on Pellet Stoves for the last couple of months. GT Sharp, i just did the exact same as you, ordered the Castle Serenity from ACE using a 15% off coupon, they cancelled the order an hour later. I tried ordering it again with the code but it no longer worked! I found another code for 15% discount,  ordered again and they havent cancelled yet!, fingers crossed. if all else fails i'll do the same and get it from HD.



Had the same issue last Fall. My local Ace honored the 15% discount, ordered the stove and I picked it up a couple days later.


----------



## GT_Sharp (Mar 29, 2015)

fcat said:


> I just joined today after reading up on Pellet Stoves for the last couple of months. GT Sharp, i just did the exact same as you, ordered the Castle Serenity from ACE using a 15% off coupon, they cancelled the order an hour later. I tried ordering it again with the code but it no longer worked! I found another code for 15% discount,  ordered again and they havent cancelled yet!, fingers crossed. if all else fails i'll do the same and get it from HD.



I sure hope you get it with the 15% off. That would be a sweet deal .  When you pick up at either Ace or HD be sure to check it over well. Mine was only attached to the pallet with 2 brackets which makes it pretty vulnerable, IMHO.
Oh yeah, Welcome to a Great Forum .


----------



## rich2500 (Mar 30, 2015)

fcat said:


> I just joined today after reading up on Pellet Stoves for the last couple of months. GT Sharp, i just did the exact same as you, ordered the Castle Serenity from ACE using a 15% off coupon, they cancelled the order an hour later. I tried ordering it again with the code but it no longer worked! I found another code for 15% discount,  ordered again and they havent cancelled yet!, fingers crossed. if all else fails i'll do the same and get it from HD.



let us know when you get your stove so we can initiate you into the Serenity sorority


----------



## fcat (Apr 3, 2015)

rich2500 said:


> let us know when you get your stove so we can initiate you into the Serenity sorority



Well ACE Hardware came through!


----------



## GT_Sharp (Apr 3, 2015)

Awesome! Thanks for the pic!


----------



## rich2500 (Apr 4, 2015)

Sweet, now you are officially a member of the Serenity sorority.


----------



## fcat (Apr 4, 2015)

I bet i'm, the only English member in the US! I'm special, well thats what my wife keep telling me! lol


----------



## fcat (Apr 4, 2015)

So i unpacked the Serenity this afternoon and all is well, the 2 small brackets holding it onto the pallet were screwed down and intact.





This is what comes with the stove, Instructions, warranty card, control panel, power cord, remote control and four screw in adjustable legs.





This was a test placement to see where to put it etc, once i found the ideal place i taped it out with painters tape on the floor so i could get it back in exactly the same place after installing the Thimble, vent pipe and the OAK






I installed a surge protector outlet this afternoon, swapped the exiting one for this one off Amazon for 20 bucks.






As i was looking inside after taking the side panel off i noticed the component on your picture GT_Sharp is the same as mine, there two of them, but the left one of yours is connected and the right one of mine is connected ?? is this some type of temp sensor and there's a spare one mounted in the fan outlet ? see pics blow:





I have all my Duravent pelletvent pro pipe ready, am going straight out with a 24" piece and a downward facing thing on the end.OAK is going out above this. Doing the venting tomorrow

One funny thing, my wife loved the stove until i showed her the control panel and where it went. She immediately said "i don't like it, it looks like a washing machine or a tumble dryer"! So i took the metal bracket off the back of the control panel and am mounting it to the wall to the right of the stove.


----------



## GT_Sharp (Apr 5, 2015)

fcat said:


> As i was looking inside after taking the side panel off i noticed the component on your picture GT_Sharp is the same as mine, there two of them, but the left one of yours is connected and the right one of mine is connected ?? is this some type of temp sensor and there's a spare one mounted in the fan outlet ? see pics blow:



Well, I don't know for sure but my theory is that these are "proof of fire" switches and one is just an extra, beings they are both on the exhaust chamber. I've been meaning to call the company to find out/verify and just haven't done it. Can't imagine that one would have that big a difference in temp reading than the other...... but don't know for sure.
Really appreciate your pictures and excellent documentation! Please continue. Anxious to see your vent setup!
I am really liking my Serenity . Haven't had any long burn times, just turn it on & off daily to take off the chill. I've chosen to dump the firepot before each start, it's way too easy . Only burned less than 6 bags and still haven't dumped the ash pan. Less than a 1/4" accumulation in it . I'm sure you're really going to enjoy yours!


----------



## fcat (Apr 5, 2015)

I have created Fire!! Well kinda

I'll do the write up and pics of the install soon.

Question:
Started up exactly how the manual says, all lights on, icons that should be on came on and went off as they should. Its been on now for 30 minutes on manual, fan is on number 1, everythgin is on default  haven't touched anything yet. The flame goes high, to the top of the firebox, then when more pellets are dropped in it goes roaring away and then it drops right down to a couple of inches before a few seconds later roaring up again, is this correct ?

Also when the pellets drop in there's sparks flying all over in the box even when the pellets are not dropping in, is this correct ? the wife says it looks pretty


----------



## fcat (Apr 5, 2015)

I cut out the vent pipe hole and the OAK hole on the inside on the drywall. Put a small drill bit hole through the exterior board and vinyl siding from the inside and then went round to the outside. Due the the gradient of the plot the outside hole was about 10 feet above ground and the OAK another foot above that. (i know they maybe shouldn't be that near but read on)







I went outside and cut out the siding and then the wood and mounted the outside Thimble and the end cap for the OAK, i also added some J channel to the siding to finish the edge off around the thimble.










I screwed the inside thimble to the wall and the same with the OAK plate and slid the stove back to where it would be.




I then wrapped where the stove spigot and the appliance adapter meet with the high temp silicon tape (thanks for the tip from this board) i also wrapped the tape around the single join i have in the house, even though i was using Duravent Pelletvent Pro which has the built in silicone seal and says you don't need to add anything at all (i have not used any RTV sealent )




I then connected the OAK to the back of the stove, plugged in the power lead and mounted the display console on the wall.







So the venting outside is as you see in the pictures below, that side of the house doesn't get a lot of wind but it does get some. I left some of the OAK corrugated pipe outside so i can bend it down, left or right if needed,. The vent comes out from the side of the house by about 18" and as you can see from the picture below, the vent extends past the oak by a good 14" if i have any problems then I'll just put a 90' bend on the end of the pipe and have a 3 foot vertical pipe and a couple of brackets to the wall, that way the vent pipe is further out than the soffit above.












I am curious about my question in my post above this, when i turn the fan onto high there's sparks all over in the firebox. is this normal ?

All fired up!


----------



## ohbix (Apr 5, 2015)

Looks nice.  Question.  If you used the duravent thimble, did you frame out a 7 x 7 space  in the wall?


----------



## fcat (Apr 5, 2015)

Should i have done ? Its not flush mounted on the inside just surface mounted.

Edit: Ahhhhh you're thinking i got the thimble where you frame it out and it allows you to pull in air through the thimble ? I didn't , just the regular Duravent 7" thimble and a totally separate OAK.


----------



## rich2500 (Apr 5, 2015)

Looks good.have you checked the air intake adjustment it sounds like it's open to far.


----------



## fcat (Apr 5, 2015)

rich2500 said:


> Looks good.have you checked the air intake adjustment it sounds like it's open to far.



I haven't no, when i say sparking, its very very light and not a lot, and its not like its huge flying pellets that are sparking  just tiny ones. i saw a couple of videos on youtube of people that had sparking and its nothing like that, might close the air intake a touch though and see how it goes.


----------



## ohbix (Apr 5, 2015)

I've got the regular duravent thimble.  Instructions said to make a 7x7 frame.  As I've seen others describe cutting a round hole vs framing it out, I was curious as to how you did yours.  Hope you love the stove.  It seems like an excellent deal.


----------



## fcat (Apr 5, 2015)

ohbix said:


> I've got the regular duravent thimble.  Instructions said to make a 7x7 frame.  As I've seen others describe cutting a round hole vs framing it out, I was curious as to how you did yours.  Hope you love the stove.  It seems like an excellent deal.



Yehi just cut the hole out! Cant see what framing it out would do at all apart from giving you something to screw to !


----------



## GT_Sharp (Apr 5, 2015)

This is a video of my Serenity burning on 1 at 'manual'. I consider it to be normal for me .


----------



## GT_Sharp (Apr 5, 2015)

fcat said:


> Yehi just cut the hole out! Cant see what framing it out would do at all apart from giving you something to screw to !


The Selkirk thimble I installed gave the same suggestion in their instructions. I interpreted it as being for stability if needed . I did catch one stud on the right side though and I allowed some air between the thimble and the fiberglass insulation. Used wall anchors on the other side. I've done framing on the inside of walls in the past and it just turns into a cluster .


----------



## fcat (Apr 5, 2015)

GT_Sharp said:


> This is a video of my Serenity burning on 1 at 'manual'. I consider it to be normal for me .




Id say mines just like that but the flames a touch higher, im gonna close the air off a touch tomorrow


----------



## fcat (Apr 22, 2015)

So i had the building inspector round this morning to inspect my stove install.
He knew nothing at all about stoves and did EVERYTHING by the book! and when i say book  i mean the user install manual.
He failed my install because the OAK comes out above the vent pipe! I tried to explain to him that i didn't even have to install an OAK and said i would disconnect it now for him from the back of the stove. He said "no because that would still leave a pipe going through the wall and you're best blocking the hole off"  I asked him where it says the OAK has to come out below the vent, he pointed to the diagram below in the user manual, i said  those are "example" installs, it says nothing about it coming out below the vent in the manual.He asked me where i had heard i didn't have to have an OAK installed i said online, i asked him to show me where it says i have to have one, i said the only place in the manual it says one is REQUIRED is in a mobile home. He got all pissy and handed me the failed paper and told me to cal the county for another inspection when i had removed the OAK and blocked up the hole!! 






Your thoughts ?


----------



## fcat (Apr 22, 2015)

The more i think about this the more its bugging me! so if "stretch out"  the air pipe to make it longer and then run it 12" down the wall so the opening is below the vent pipe the OAK opening is then below the vent pipe yeh ??


----------



## BrotherBart (Apr 22, 2015)

He may not know it but international mechanical codes are on his side.

*503.8 Venting system termination location.* The location of venting system terminations shall comply with the following (see Appendix C): 

1. A mechanical draft venting system shall terminate at least 3 feet (914 mm) above any forced-air inlet located within 10 feet (3048 mm).


----------



## GT_Sharp (Apr 22, 2015)

fcat said:


> The more i think about this the more its bugging me! so if "stretch out"  the air pipe to make it longer and then run it 12" down the wall so the opening is below the vent pipe the OAK opening is then below the vent pipe yeh ??


But if it doesn't show it in the manual as an example, he might not approve it . It would be more expense to run the vent pipe up the outside wall (as shown in manual examples) but possibly might get you that all important inspection approval. 
And as a side note; the 45 years I've dealt with inspectors, about half have known their stuff and half not so much. It's been a crap shoot. Wish you the best!


----------



## Lake Girl (Apr 22, 2015)

NFPA 211 (2010) actually requires installation of outside air kit.  http://www.nfpa.org/codes-and-standards/document-information-pages?mode=code&code=211
Also discussed here on this thread... Owen posted first two pages of the code.  OAK needs to be approximately 9- 12" away from exhaust termination based on input BTU.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/help-installed-new-stove-wont-run.140373/

Owner's manual does take precedence on install instructions as long as it doesn't conflict with NFPA and local building codes.


----------



## Lake Girl (Apr 22, 2015)

BrotherBart said:


> He may not know it but international mechanical codes are on his side.
> 
> *503.8 Venting system termination location.* The location of venting system terminations shall comply with the following (see Appendix C):
> 
> 1. A mechanical draft venting system shall terminate at least 3 feet (914 mm) above any forced-air inlet located within 10 feet (3048 mm).



BB, now I'm confused as that seems to conflict with thimbles and pipe that have OAK built in and can use as horizontal install.  NFPA says approx. 12" based on BTU


----------



## BrotherBart (Apr 22, 2015)

Lake Girl said:


> BB, now I'm confused as that seems to conflict with thimbles and pipe that have OAK built in and can use as horizontal install.  NFPA says approx. 12" based on BTU



"*Exceptions:*

1. This provision shall not apply to the _combustion air_ intake of a direct-vent _appliance_. "


----------



## Lake Girl (Apr 22, 2015)

Venting install instructions:  http://www.duravent.com/docs/product/L550_W.pdf


----------



## fcat (Apr 22, 2015)

ok so are we saying that my OAK has to draw air in from 3 feet below the vent pipe and be 9 to 12" away from the end of the end of the vent pipe ?


----------



## ohbix (Apr 22, 2015)

From the Castle serenity manual, p 12, "vent termination MUST exhaust above air inlet elevation (OAK).  Horizontal termination must be a minimum of 12" from the wall.  Termination must be a minimum of 2 feet above combustibles (grass, leaves, etc).  p15, "air inlet must be terminated with a vertical 90 deg bend down or w/a wind hood."  Hope this clears it up.


----------



## fcat (Apr 23, 2015)

Yup, sure does thanks,


----------



## fcat (Apr 23, 2015)

So here's what i did, inspectors just been and passed it!


----------



## ohbix (Apr 23, 2015)

Congrats!  Should your stove get insufficient air (multiple 90s and length in the OAK), you could transition the OAK to 3" flexible pipe.


----------



## jaketernoois (Jun 14, 2015)

Hi, I have a question on the Castle serenity stove. I've read up on this stove and it seems to have good reviews. My house is under 1000sqft and also has electric baseboard, but would like to heat mainly with the pellets since they will be cheaper. Is it possible to fab up an extension for the hopper? Sometimes i'm not home for a few days so i'd like the stove to stay on at low setting for 3 or 4 days if possible. Does anyone know how long the stove will last now on low setting?

thanks


----------



## Don2222 (Jun 14, 2015)

The control panel sits on top on the back edge so any hopper extension would hide the controls unless you can get a longer ribbon cable to mount the panel on the extension.


----------



## jaketernoois (Jun 14, 2015)

I see what you mean. Could the control panel be mounted on the side? Does the remote have to "see" that control panel to work? I'd have to make something so it could hold more pellets....40lbs is just too small, but I like the reviews and simplicity of the stove and the price

 thanks


----------



## CleanFire (Jun 14, 2015)

Best to check w/ the manufacturer first, you will want to make sure the extra weight will not adversely affect auger / auger motor operation.  (Have the same hopper limitation w/ the Francesca here.)


----------



## rich2500 (Jun 15, 2015)

jaketernoois said:


> Hi, I have a question on the Castle serenity stove. I've read up on this stove and it seems to have good reviews. My house is under 1000sqft and also has electric baseboard, but would like to heat mainly with the pellets since they will be cheaper. Is it possible to fab up an extension for the hopper? Sometimes i'm not home for a few days so i'd like the stove to stay on at low setting for 3 or 4 days if possible. Does anyone know how long the stove will last now on low setting?
> 
> thanks


I average 18-20 hrs. on a hopper on low, so you would have to atleast triple the hopper size just to get somewhat close to 3 days,I love my serenity but I don't think it's the stove for your application.


----------



## jaketernoois (Jun 27, 2015)

Can you set your low setting even lower? If I doubled the hopper and got 2 days I suppose I could live with that.

Does anyone have a number or website to get ahold of Castle? I googled and couldn't find anything. I want to ask them if putting more weight on the auger assembly will harm it.

thanks


----------



## smwilliamson (Jun 27, 2015)

Pretty sure the oak is supposed to be lower than the vent


----------



## rich2500 (Jun 29, 2015)

jaketernoois said:


> Can you set your low setting even lower? If I doubled the hopper and got 2 days I suppose I could live with that.
> 
> Does anyone have a number or website to get ahold of Castle? I googled and couldn't find anything. I want to ask them if putting more weight on the auger assembly will harm it.
> 
> thanks


low is the lowest setting for feeding pellets, there are individual adjustments for the fans but not the auger.
http://www.castlestoves.com/    If you scroll down the page to support there is a contact us tab with the phone #


----------



## WMpellet59 (Oct 27, 2015)

Castle groupies, Hello!

Wish I had found you all about last April when I first got my Serenity. I've learned more here in an hour reading from your experiences than I've picked up anywhere so, thank you! Unfortunately, I'm going to have to do a little more work on my install, fortunately it looks like I've got a lot of folks here that know what they're doing. 
Two things you have all done is an OAK and a mod on the vent handle and I have not. That's first up. Shouldn't be to big of a deal, right? Lol.
My place is split level, about 12-1300ft. I located the stove under the stairs so it would vent up through the stairwell. My problem thus far, and probably has a lot to do with OAK and adjustable vent is generating enough heat to warm the upstairs? It'll run you out downstairs now. The stove soots up and burns a big flame most of the time so from what I've read here that's all wrong and for the amount of pellets it burns it doesn't seem like it's generating the same amount of heat you are all getting. So, I've got some work to do.
I do love this little guy and I know he's got it in him I just need to figure out how to make him go. I had a Quadra fire wood burner but no time to get wood and tired of the mess so I got the Castle. Thanks for the info already here and thanks for any help and suggestions as I go along.


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 27, 2015)

First thing you really need to do is hookup the oak then you can get the airflow adjusted properly and then I think you will be fine, this stove really cranks out the heat with good pellets and the proper burn.


----------



## WMpellet59 (Oct 27, 2015)

My work schedule is in the way till Saturday pm. Need to find the flex hose or something for piping it in. My setup should be pretty simple, straight out through the wall and a ninety. Exhaust is about a foot higher than the stove top. A foot or so off the exterior wall.

I'm a little surprised they have'nt fixed the adjustment without having to do a mod on it so you can conveniently change how it's set.


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 28, 2015)

WMpellet59 said:


> My work schedule is in the way till Saturday pm. Need to find the flex hose or something for piping it in. My setup should be pretty simple, straight out through the wall and a ninety. Exhaust is about a foot higher than the stove top. A foot or so off the exterior wall.
> 
> I'm a little surprised they have'nt fixed the adjustment without having to do a mod on it so you can conveniently change how it's set.


yeah that setup is stupid with having to remove the side panel,I have been wanting to call Ardisam and talk to one their techs and suggest they add an adjustment rod for the airgate but just have gotten around to calling yet


----------



## WMpellet59 (Oct 28, 2015)

Outside of these flimsy looking flex hose kits is there anything else I can use? I was thinking of just using PVC all the way? It's a straight run through the wall then a 90 at the end. Put a critter screen in the end and call it a day?


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 28, 2015)

PVC is  not recommended, for code it needs to be metal, some people have gone to auto parts stores and gotten metal exhaust flex pipe and used that.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Dynomax/289/46973/10002/-1?parentProductId=


----------



## GT_Sharp (Oct 28, 2015)

I'm still working on installing my OAK. Got a 2" x 20" chunk of flex pipe from Supply House.com a few days ago. It was less than $7.00 shipped. Here's the link: http://www.supplyhouse.com/Aluminum-Flex-Duct-18953000 .


----------



## WMpellet59 (Oct 29, 2015)

GT_sharp, rich2500, this is what I got for air 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...st Pipe&qid=1446094581&ref_=sr_1_5&sr=8-5#Ask
 at Amazon.

Should be just about right. If I can't make a 90 with it I'll add one. How about tape to seal stove and air/exhaust pipes where they slide on the rear  stove ports? Have some aluminum heat tape but it doesn't seem like a real tight seal.


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 29, 2015)

yep that pipe is fine, for sealing joints I use the tape below
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-T...-Fusing-Silicone-Tape-Black-1208952/100206050


----------



## WMpellet59 (Oct 29, 2015)

Ok. I got the vent mod done. It's not perfect but it'll work. I'll post a picture when I get a chance. So what kind of air vent settings do you use? Do I just experiment till it seems right? I know I changed the default fan settings so I think I'll reset those and start all over again. I don't have the air in yet but will get that done this weekend. That should go quick. Will seal it all up with tape.


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 30, 2015)

experimenting is the best, my air gate is 3/4 closed but your setup and pellets are different so you need to find what works for you.keep us posted how it goes for you.


----------



## Rocknroller (Oct 30, 2015)

Hello Everyone! New to this site and first time poster! So moving forward with the purchase of a new Castle Serenity Pellet stove! I can't begin to express how excited I am about this! I currently heat my home with propane so that should give you some idea! haha! anyway, i've been reading through many of the threads about this stove and it sounds like I won't be disappointed! My question is has anyone tried to do a pipe installation through stucco exterior? Also haven't really seen anyone jumping on the thimble/air intake combination units? are they a waste of money? I like the idea of being able to cut one hole and have both pipes running through....as opposed to 2 seperate holes in a stucco exterior....any thoughts? Thanks in advance for any advice! Cheers!


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 31, 2015)

I think most use the duravent piping because its readily available.


----------



## Shane1 (Oct 31, 2015)

Rocknroller said:


> Hello Everyone! New to this site and first time poster! So moving forward with the purchase of a new Castle Serenity Pellet stove! I can't begin to express how excited I am about this! I currently heat my home with propane so that should give you some idea! haha! anyway, i've been reading through many of the threads about this stove and it sounds like I won't be disappointed! My question is has anyone tried to do a pipe installation through stucco exterior? Also haven't really seen anyone jumping on the thimble/air intake combination units? are they a waste of money? I like the idea of being able to cut one hole and have both pipes running through....as opposed to 2 seperate holes in a stucco exterior....any thoughts? Thanks in advance for any advice! Cheers!


I used a duravent kit but put an extra hole in it for the intake. My vertical rise is on the exterior so it works. It's alot cleaner looking.


----------



## Shane1 (Oct 31, 2015)

Shane1 said:


> I used a duravent kit but put an extra hole in it for the intake. My vertical rise is on the exterior so it works. It's alot cleaner looking.


----------



## WMpellet59 (Nov 9, 2015)

So, I'm about there with the Castle. Will post a few pictures here now. If you see anything suspicious please say something. I ended rebuilding my draft handle because the one I cobbled together was not so great. Went to Ace and bought a piece of aluminum strapping and built a nice one. Works great. In the picture you will see machine screw on the l.ongest part, that is a stopper so the paddle that covers the draft doesn't come completely out of it's guides.
I'm also having a mod made that will go over the front where the heat is blown out that will vent it through a pipe directly up my stairway to my upper level. Kind of a forced air rig. Will look a little funky but I think it will be a much more direct way to send the heat up than just letting it drift up through the stairway. Right now very little heat actually makes it up. It takes about 15 minutes on level 1 (it's not cold yet either) to do the lower level so I'm hoping it will be similar when I pipe it up. Oh, and the air on the outside wall needs a 90, going to see if I can get one at a muffler shop or have them make me one.

You can measure how much your draft is open by pulling the burn tray (where the pellets burn) and taking a flashlight an looking behind where it sits. That's where it feeds the air. I made marks on my handle for closed, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 and open. Now I just need to get my little vent mod done and figure out how to get the best burn and hopefully I'll be set.


----------



## GT_Sharp (Nov 10, 2015)

Very cool draft adjustment handle you've made yourself. I really need to do this myself, plus finish the OAK. With my Serenity in the shop and operating very satisfactory, I just haven't felt the urgency as of yet. I'm sure it'll get done yet this year. Just for an FYI, I run mine at factory default settings and on manual #2. I'm at about 3200' above sea level. Perfect for my needs. Thanks again for the post and pix!


----------



## DGullett (Dec 21, 2015)

Ok guys I need help I have a castle serenity stove and I love it but just today as I was heating my house it blew a fuse and started smoking out the intake I have looked all over the place for someone with the same issue and nothing. I am new to the pellet stove world and was wondering if anybody could help me try and figure this out?


----------



## rich2500 (Dec 21, 2015)

did it blow the stove fuse or trip the house breaker,and do you have the air intake hooked up


----------



## DGullett (Dec 21, 2015)

rich2500 said:


> did it blow the stove fuse or trip the house breaker,and do you have the air intake hooked up



It blew the stove fuse and no I put the stove in right before it got cold and talked to a lot of people and they said try running it with out the intake hooked up and see how it runs.


----------



## rich2500 (Dec 21, 2015)

The stove may run fine without the intake hooked up but then in the event of a power outage the smoke can filter into the house. I and many here will advise you to get that air intake hooked up.have you replaced the blown fuse yet and see if the stove will fire back up without blowing the fuse.


----------



## DGullett (Dec 21, 2015)

rich2500 said:


> The stove may run fine without the intake hooked up but then in the event of a power outage the smoke can filter into the house. I and many here will advise you to get that air intake hooked up.have you replaced the blown fuse yet and see if the stove will fire back up without blowing the fuse.



Yea I planned on getting it hooked up but was trying to wait for it to dry out outside and get a little warmer. And yes I did replace the fuse and my wife went to turn it on when she got home and it started to ignite and then it blew another fuse is it possible that since the smoke came back into the house that the combustion motor might be bad. 

Also on a side note what type of fuse do I need to get as a replacement.


----------



## rich2500 (Dec 21, 2015)

Take one of the blown fuses with you to get a replacement then put a good fuse in the stove and instead of trying to start the stove run a diagnostic test.


----------



## DGullett (Dec 21, 2015)

rich2500 said:


> Take one of the blown fuses with you to get a replacement then put a good fuse in the stove and instead of trying to start the stove run a diagnostic test.



Ok I will do that will it tell me if a motor is bad or something


----------



## rich2500 (Dec 21, 2015)

DGullett said:


> Ok I will do that will it tell me if a motor is bad or something


Get a couple fuses,if its the motor when the diagnostic test runs the motor it should blow the fuse, may just be a loose connection or wires touching.wouldn't hurt to do a visual inspection of the wiring before doing anything else.


----------



## DGullett (Dec 21, 2015)

rich2500 said:


> Get a couple fuses,if its the motor when the diagnostic test runs the motor it should blow the fuse, may just be a loose connection or wires touching.wouldn't hurt to do a visual inspection of the wiring before doing anything else.



Yea I planned on tearing the back and side off of it when I get home from and really looking over and possibly pulling the combustion motor out and looking at I did notice when looking at it today before I left that when the wife last cleaned it she left the sides up for the ash bin and there was alot.of ash sitting in the bottom could that have possibly burnt something up she just cleaned it Saturday and now this


----------



## Deezl Smoke (Dec 21, 2015)

I highly recommend that you start a new thread with a more specific title to gain the interest of more viewers. This thread is about a different subject.

 However, leaving the side flaps up can cause more debri to get by the ash pan and perhaps enough has made it's way to the combustion fan and blocked it up?


----------



## DGullett (Dec 21, 2015)

Deezl Smoke said:


> I highly recommend that you start a new thread with a more specific title to gain the interest of more viewers. This thread is about a different subject.
> 
> However, leaving the side flaps up can cause more debri to get by the ash pan and perhaps enough has made it's way to the combustion fan and blocked it up?



Thanks for the advice I was mostly just wanting to see what opinions people had and if I can't figure it out I planned on posting a new thread I just seen that most the people on this thread had a castle serenity and wanted to see if they possibly had the same issue


----------



## rich2500 (Dec 22, 2015)

to be blowing fuses something is shorting out,like deezl said maybe leaving the ash deflectors up gunked up the motor and toasted it ( you can blame it on the wifey  ).Pull the side panels and check all connections then leave the side panels off and put a good fuse in and run the diagnostic test if it's a component causing the short when the diagnostic test checks that component it should pop the fuse and that will tell you the problem.From what you have said so far it sounds like it may very well be the combustion blower


----------



## ronjovi001 (Jan 24, 2016)

fcat said:


> I just joined today after reading up on Pellet Stoves for the last couple of months. GT Sharp, i just did the exact same as you, ordered the Castle Serenity from ACE using a 15% off coupon, they cancelled the order an hour later. I tried ordering it again with the code but it no longer worked! I found another code for 15% discount,  ordered again and they havent cancelled yet!, fingers crossed. if all else fails i'll do the same and get it from HD.


Hi Guys... I did the SAME EXACT THING WITH THE SAME RESULTS... ACE HARDWARE CANCELLED MY ORDER AS WELL... seems to be something they do routinely... they say that have it in stock while online, but then "mysteriously" they don't have any to satisfy the order and just cancel it after you wait for a few weeks. I got mine from HD for a bit more, but they delivered it right to my door and the guy actually helped me take it down steps to my basement. HD has been great to work with... have a few questions, but will post them on a new entry. Update me on how your stove works for you. I love the stove. Only had one incident, but I think it was my fault.


----------



## Don2222 (Jan 24, 2016)

GT_Sharp said:


> Okay, you have my attention. I'm all eyes & ears. I already have all the bits laying around, i.e., pipe, wall thimble material, etc.. ...but am always open to a project that makes things more functional.
> Did a search here on the forum for 'balanced flue' and was only able to come up with info regarding closing off air intake on lower base of stove. Still a 'lil vague  for my limited imagination. Would you be willing to provide some links or a little more info pertaining to your 'balanced flue' design?
> Thanks!


Hello
Selkirk DT is the US equivilant. I use it on all my stoves and love the better efficiency!


----------



## arby808 (Oct 22, 2016)

If you folks are looking for a Castle  Serenity check on ebay there is a place  in western Wisconsin that has these stoves, the name of the store is moreoutdoor4usales. I picked one up  for 599.00 with free shipping to a fedex freight termanal


----------



## Lake Girl (Oct 22, 2016)

That's an amazing price.  Are they refurbished or factory seconds?


----------



## Lake Girl (Oct 22, 2016)

Lake Girl said:


> That's an amazing price.  Are they refurbished or factory seconds?


Three month warranty vs. one year from Ardisam.  Four hundred dollars difference...


----------



## arby808 (Oct 22, 2016)

These are returns  and demos they even have some scratch and dent one also they did raise the price on the auctions up to 650 with free shipping


----------



## adayrider (Oct 22, 2016)

Now $750   LOL Price is climbing


----------



## arby808 (Oct 23, 2016)

They must know it is getting colder outside


----------



## Nvnv (Nov 18, 2016)

Those of you with the Serenity, how hot does your vent pipe get? Can you lay your hand on it no problem or is it too hot? Mine I can touch with my finger for a second or so before I have to remove it. Kind of concerns me since some people say they can hold their hand on the pipe no problem, although with different stoves.


----------



## GT_Sharp (Dec 13, 2017)

Well, the journey continues. The Serenity has been a true joy, although the door gasket has lived  its life. Now midway into it's third season it is apparent it needs replaced. Got this (pic) for a replacement and will do so tomorrow. I'll post more pictures after I'm done, you know, the old failing one, the new one installed, etc., etc..


----------



## Nvnv (Dec 13, 2017)

GT_Sharp said:


> Well, the journey continues. The Serenity has been a true joy, although the door gasket has lived  its life. Now midway into it's third season it is apparent it needs replaced. Got this (pic) for a replacement and will do so tomorrow. I'll post more pictures after I'm done, you know, the old failing one, the new one installed, etc., etc..
> View attachment 217801



How’s your burn pot doing after 3 years? Mine is pretty beat up and is warping to the point it’s getting hard to take out.


----------



## GT_Sharp (Dec 13, 2017)

Nvnv said:


> How’s your burn pot doing after 3 years? Mine is pretty beat up and is warping to the point it’s getting hard to take out.


Mine is doing extremely well so far. I clean it probably every other day (cause it's so easy) and about once a month I re-do the holes with a  13/64" drill bit. Don't know if that helps or not but it doesn't seem to hurt it any. Those holes do tend to fill up with residue.


----------



## GT_Sharp (Dec 14, 2017)

This is roughly the steps I took to replace the gasket.


Items I used, I also used a dust mask, flat bladed screw driver and a vacuum.




	

		
			
		

		
	
   Pix of the failed door gasket. Don't have a clue what caused this, as it seems a bit premature.



	

		
			
		

		
	
    After I scraped out the old gasket with the screw driver.



	

		
			
		

		
	
   After using the smaller wire wheel and the drill. Vacuumed real good. The reddish coloring on the latch side must be a reflection from the floor (?) as it was down to shiney metal.



	

		
			
		

		
	
 Gasket attached after using the included cement as per instructions. Cut gasket and closed door to set it real good.

The instructions say to let it air dry for at least an hour with the door open before firing up the stove to cure. I don't foresee any problems and will be firing it up later this afternoon. If any problems occur, I'll report back.
Might not be the absolute correct way but it's how I did it.


----------



## GT_Sharp (Dec 22, 2017)

I'm reporting back with 1 problem....... I waited too long to do the replacement .
I can burn 48+ hours before feeling the need to clean the glass now. I won't be putting it off as long should the need arise again .


----------



## bags (Dec 22, 2017)

Yeah, I'm about due or overdue for the gaskets on my P68. I think the factory white ropes are maxed out and done after two good seasons.

I was going to replace mine but the cold cold beat me to that so I fired it up and off we went. I just fluff the gaskets occasionally and that does the trick for now. Either with a tool sliding around the edges while hot or hit it with the vac. Either works fine.


----------



## Don2222 (Dec 22, 2017)

bags said:


> Yeah, I'm about due or overdue for the gaskets on my P68. I think the factory white ropes are maxed out and done after two good seasons.
> 
> I was going to replace mine but the cold cold beat me to that so I fired it up and off we went. I just fluff the gaskets occasionally and that does the trick for now. Either with a tool sliding around the edges while hot or hit it with the vac. Either works fine.


I like the Graphite Impregnated rope gasket much better!


----------



## mudeprived (Dec 22, 2017)

Thanks for the mini write-up on the seal replacement. I need to do this with mine as well. I have one season on it and it's frayed at the corner and there is a gap at the bottom-middle. 

Where did you get your new seal kit? I think Home Depot/Lowes has kits but I am not sure if they will work with the Serenity.


----------



## GT_Sharp (Dec 22, 2017)

mudeprived said:


> Thanks for the mini write-up on the seal replacement. I need to do this with mine as well. I have one season on it and it's frayed at the corner and there is a gap at the bottom-middle.
> 
> Where did you get your new seal kit? I think Home Depot/Lowes has kits but I am not sure if they will work with the Serenity.


I got mine thru Home Depot. They did not stock it in store so I had it shipped to the store and picked up when it came in. They were accurate on their shipping time. Here's the link https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rutland...n_STH_BOSS_3091372-_-product_desc__W810767912
Make sure you get the (round ) rope one and not the flat tape one. When I need to do it again I would go thru Home Depot again, easy breezy.


----------



## bags (Dec 23, 2017)

mudeprived said:


> Thanks for the mini write-up on the seal replacement. I need to do this with mine as well. I have one season on it and it's frayed at the corner and there is a gap at the bottom-middle.
> 
> Where did you get your new seal kit? I think Home Depot/Lowes has kits but I am not sure if they will work with the Serenity.



Tractor Supply has rope kits on the shelf cheap. Many other hardware stores etc also stock them. It is universal stuff and not brand specific just the diameter or the rope needed is stove door specific Most are 3/8 and 1/2 inch to 5/8 ths on most wood and pellet burners.

That said, ropes can get big like on my Woodmaster 5500 which uses 1 inch gasket rope on the fire door. So be sure to match up the correct size or research it and do not stretch the rope when doing the new install. You will notice the door is a tight shut once your new one goes in which is good.


----------



## bags (Dec 23, 2017)

Many threads here on rope replacement procedure. Give it a look and use the search bar. You'll get plenty of results and recommendations.


----------



## GT_Sharp (Dec 23, 2017)

bags said:


> ....... just the diameter or the rope needed is stove door specific Most are 3/8 and 1/2 inch to 5/8 ths on most wood and pellet burners......


The Serenity pellet stove door requires 3/4" rope.


----------



## bags (Dec 24, 2017)

Bought new graphite ropes for my P68 yesterday to have on hand. Cold snap starting tonight for awhile so that project will wait but maybe next warm up I may tackle it. I did the PC 45 ropes when I brought it home. Should have done them this summer but the broken back, ribs, and mangled up leg from a bike wreck took that off of the to do list. I've been playing catch up here for awhile now....


----------



## Hiskid (Dec 25, 2017)

Got my stove from Atrtisam's ebay store for $750 free ship to dock. I have a church friend who is a dock mgr so he received it and delivered it on my porch 6 ft from install spot.It had bends in the back panel and a frayed door gasket. I was supposed to be like new demo. They sent me a new back panel and gasket. And as  discount for damage and they gave me a $50 rebate.They are top notch in my book for customer service. Right now the stove is on (1) as the sun is shining in the sun porch. It is around 32 and very windy. The air coming in the window fan at the top of the porch window is 86. The LR is 76. 




Bag's, I understand the back up. We ride but I fell from a hastily placed ladder putting up spouting. Femur snapped like a stick when I fell on top of the ladder. Set me back for a year. Thank God for friends/family.

To my pellet burning friends: Merry Christmas  and may God bless and keep you in this next year ahead.


----------

