# Any pole barn builders here?



## curtis (Aug 29, 2013)

Anyone here ever built a pole barn or had someone build it for them? I have the materials ordered for a 14'x20' with 10' walls, 1 8x7 garage door and one service door. metal sides and shingle roof. I thought that i would just put it up myself but now im thinking maybe it would be easier just to have someone build it for me. What should i expect to pay for it being built? I have the excavation work done and all they would have to do is erect the building, no finishing of the inside. Also if you guys know anyone in Northern Michigan that does this kind of work let me know, Im located in Boyne City.


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## bmblank (Aug 29, 2013)

When i was younger i helped dad build one. They're really not hard to build. Very basic construction. Hardest parts being excavation, placing trusses and pouring concrete.
As far as cost goes, I'm not sure. A small to mid sized barn could probably go up in a weekend though.


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## lukem (Aug 30, 2013)

We have a lot of Amish carpenters around here who will put up a pole barn in a day for pretty reasonable prices.  Since it is basically down to labor costs given that you already have the materials, I would expect that to vary pretty widely by locality.

That's not a big building to frame up, I'm guessing you will only have 11 post holes to dig, and the metal siding should go up pretty quick given that you only have 2 doors and no windows.  

The shingle roof will probably be the single most labor intensive thing.  Might consider doing that yourself to save some dough.  Just get some paper down and it will be fine for long enough to shingle it.

Are you pouring a floor?  That's about 3.5 yards of concrete, which is not a big job, but big enough that you would want to rent a power trowel.  If you ever plan on insulating it and heating it I would consider putting down some XPS under the slab and along the perimeter.

Is all your fascia and soffit pre-cut and pre-broke too?  If so that's an easy job.

What I'm getting at, is break down all the different things and hire out what makes the most sense....which may be all or none of it.


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## ironpony (Aug 30, 2013)

Yes it would be easier, but if you break it down into smaller steps you can do it yourself. They go up fairly easy. Then when you are done you can stand back and admire your work.


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## curtis (Aug 30, 2013)

lukem said:


> Are you pouring a floor? That's about 3.5 yards of concrete, which is not a big job, but big enough that you would want to rent a power trowel. If you ever plan on insulating it and heating it I would consider putting down some XPS under the slab and along the perimeter.


 

Heres the deal with the floor. Two years ago I poured a 8'x16' 4'' pad and what im planning on doing is putting my pole barn with that slab centered inside. That way all I will have to do is pour 3' on the sides and 2' wide in the front and back. I am going to insulated the barn but the only heat that it will recieve will be heat coming off of the boiler.
I would really like to build it myself if i can, I just would like to have someone who has done it before to help me. I went to homedepot and lowes last night to see if they had any "how-to" books but all they had where conventional framing books.


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## Highbeam (Aug 30, 2013)

I built one within the last two years. I did it all myself except had help finishing the concrete, setting trusses, roofing, and anything else that needed a second guy on the other end. Pole barns are easy and I did some nerdy things that I think make it better. I have 2 foot eaves all around and composition roof to match the house, 2" foam insulation under the slab plus 1800 feet of pex radiant tubes in the slab, tyvek hosue wrap between the metal siding and the wood, etc.

I would have hired it out but the total price was always at least double the price that I could do it for. I had three bids.

The hardest part was tipping the posts into the holes. The holes were 4 feet deep and the poles were 20 feet long true 6x8s slopping wet with fresh preservative.


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## Wooden Head (Aug 30, 2013)

curtis said:


> Anyone here ever built a pole barn or had someone build it for them? I have the materials ordered for a 14'x20' with 10' walls, 1 8x7 garage door and one service door. metal sides and shingle roof. I thought that i would just put it up myself but now im thinking maybe it would be easier just to have someone build it for me. What should i expect to pay for it being built? I have the excavation work done and all they would have to do is erect the building, no finishing of the inside. Also if you guys know anyone in Northern Michigan that does this kind of work let me know, Im located in Boyne City.


 
It's probably to late to change the roof to metal, but do it if you can. I've changed every shingle roof I have to metal. My roofs are both high pitch and low pitch. I've found that asphalt shingles may at best have a 15yr. usable life. I've had inexpensive and expensive shingles and 15 yrs. is about tops for life.

My guy down the road built a pole barn about the size of yours. Did most of the work himself and took him about 4 weekends. I helped setting the post and setting the top ledger and truss.


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## PapaDave (Sep 1, 2013)

Built one back in '07, and had someone else do the excavation work.
I'll give you a heads up.....don't try setting trusses while standing in sand.
Rented a bobcat and auger to do the post holes. I was sick for 2 weeks while all this was going on, but had to be out there to help since I had guys here to help.
Brother and I set the top ledger, brother and nephew and one other guy helped do the trusses, and I did most everything after that.


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## Thistle (Sep 1, 2013)

Brother just had one built in early July - 40 x 60 & wished he went bigger.All electrical is in now,has a  buried waterline that was added on to the one at the house 300 ft to the east.Floor isn't done yet,he wanted to wait a bit longer since blowing through so much cash on the original project.Eventually will have concrete floor,it will be partitioned off for various uses such as 5th wheel trailer storage,a small workshop,stalls for the 3 horses & other things.His  Ford Industrial tractor is already parked inside temporarily.


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## curtis (Sep 4, 2013)

How critical is it to get the poles buried the same depth? I have to have them 48'' down and sitting on 8'' of concrete so i have to drill holes 56'' deep. If the ground isnt perfectly level than it seems that your  poles will be at different depths?


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## PapaDave (Sep 4, 2013)

My requirement was 42" below *grade*.
Each one will be 56" below ground surface at the point of the hole.
Make sure all the posts are long enough if you have a slope. Low side of the slope needs longer posts.
Why so deep? I'm in Northern Mi too.


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## curtis (Sep 4, 2013)

PapaDave said:


> My requirement was 42" below grade. Each one will be 56" below ground surface at the point of the hole. Make sure all the posts are long enough if you have a slope. Low side of the slope needs longer posts. Why so deep? I'm in Northern Mi too.


 
Heres the county that I live in requirements, http://www.charlevoixcounty.org/downloads/pole_building_specs.pdf
It says footing depth is min. 48" and that you have to have atleast 8" of concrete. Does that mean 48" to the bottom of the concrete or top?

As I was typing this I got a call back from the building inspector and he told me that I need a 48" hole and then 8" of concrete and then the pole. So 40" of the pole will be in the ground. That makes it a little easier as I will have a little wiggle room on the length of the poles and will probally end up having to cut a few inches of the top of the pole off.


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## Highbeam (Sep 4, 2013)

First grade the site level. Compact. Then level. Then compact again. Build your pad much bigger than your building, at least a ten foot border around the building.

Now you have a level pad so you can determine your post length. It's not worth it to try and get too close. I cut a foot off of the top of each pole. Poles are pretty cheap and the difference between an 18 footer and a 20 footer is small enough that it is not worth the risk to try and cut it close.

I have known men that ended up with a barn slightly taller than planned because after they set the poles they realized that they had an extra 6" of height and didn't want to waste it.

I used a bobcat mounted hydraulic auger to drill the 30" diameter holes. This is nice because you can reverse the bit. To pour the bottom 8" of concrete I had one of those concrete trucks come out that mixes the concrete from ingredients right there onsite. 4 sticks of rebar in the bottom and then flattened with a rake
	

		
			
		

		
	












	

		
			
		

		
	
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## PapaDave (Sep 4, 2013)

Highbeam said it better than I.


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## curtis (Sep 4, 2013)

Ok, like I said earlier there is a 4" 8x16 slab right where I am building my pole barn. I was out there today and realized that the slab is just a little to low compared to surrounding ground. In the spring and fall water would run on to it. So what I'm thinking is skiming  the topsoil off around that slab and then leaving the slab there and bringing in fill sand to build the area up a foot or two. That slab is built on a good sand base therefore I think leaving it there should not be a problem. What do you guys think?


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## Highbeam (Sep 5, 2013)

Slab over slab is fine. We build roads like that sometimes with gravel between. The integrity of your top slab depends on the integrity of the old slab.

It's not hard to remove a slab. Just in the last two weekends I removed a 12x30' slab where the old barn was in that photo. Concrete was 8-10" thick since the previous owner's dad worked for the concrete company and concrete was cheaper than fill. Rental electric jackhammer and then load the chunks into a stout pickup.

I'm not a fan of sand for fill. It squirts out.


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## curtis (Sep 5, 2013)

I have about 10 yards of sand at my house that I will spread out over the old slab and building site and then figure out how more fill I will need and have some gravel brought in to finish it off. Will a gravel base be good to pour my new slab on?


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## Highbeam (Sep 6, 2013)

Compacted gravel on top of compacted subgrade. Then 6 mil poly, then 2" foam, then pex heatingtubes, then mesh on top of the pex, and then pour slab.

Sand is for the beach.

In the photo I had put the mesh beneath the pex, if I could do it over I would have put flipped that to mesh on top. Not rolls of fencing but the 20' long matts of mesh for concrete.


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## Highbeam (Sep 6, 2013)

Oh and sawcut within 24 hours of the pour. I was amazed at how the sawcuts caused cracks to form in the bottom of each cut instead of randomly in the slab.


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## curtis (Sep 6, 2013)

Seems like everyone around my area has told me to use sand under the slab. I think I will use up the sand i have here already to bring it up to level with the rest of the surrounding ground and then maybe 6-12" of gravel on top.  I have the 6 mil poly sheeting and since the building wont be heated except for the radiant heat loos from my boiler I wont be putting pex in the concrete or the foam. What do you recommend on the saw cut for my 16x20? Should I cut it into four sections or more?


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## Highbeam (Sep 8, 2013)

curtis said:


> What do you recommend on the saw cut for my 16x20? Should I cut it into four sections or more?


 
With sand, the poly VB is even more important to keep the concrete wet as long as possible. I did one pour on sand without plastic and the concrete kicked way faster than normal and he got cracks. Not sure if the cracks were from the rapid drying or from the sand. Be sure that the sand is confined and can't squirt out. After you put 6-12" of gravel on top the sand really will be a non-issue, it's just bulk fill at that depth. Regionally, people use sand for odd things.

With a 16x20 I would not cut it any more than twice so you would end up with 4 sections, each 8x10. 15' is how frequently we cut freeway slabs, so I would not leave the 16' dimension uncut. Rent the walk behind sawcutter that uses water and a diamond blade. Only cut 1.5-2" deep, no need to cut through, you are only trying to create a weak spot. Make the cuts within the first 24 hours of the pour and keep the slab wet for the first week. The poly will help with the moisture.  

Concrete is fun. Even if you don't plan to heat the slab, I would still try and get some insulation in under the slab and on the edges.


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## curtis (Sep 18, 2013)

Alright, I have  my ground level and compacted and my holes drilled and inspected. Tonite I will mix the concrete and pour it in the holes and let it set up for a day. I have a question on the framing part for you. Where my service door is going to be do you not put the bottom skirt board on in that 3ft section? Or do you figure out floor height and cut a notch out of the top of the skirt board so that it is level with where the top of the concret floor will be? If you guyes have any pictures of framing out the door for me to look at i would appreicate it.


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## lukem (Sep 18, 2013)

curtis said:


> I have a question on the framing part for you. Where my service door is going to be do you not put the bottom skirt board on in that 3ft section? Or do you figure out floor height and cut a notch out of the top of the skirt board so that it is level with where the top of the concret floor will be? If you guyes have any pictures of framing out the door for me to look at i would appreicate it.



It is easiest to put the board in, then notch it out with a recip saw after the pour and all the other door framing is done.

Make sure your skirting is adequately supported because concrete is heavy and will bow it out.  I usually cut down 2x material into a right angled triangular wedge and drive it into the ground at least 18" deep, with the long flat side of the board butted up against the skirting.  Just make sure you get the top of it below the skirting to make screeding easier.


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## lukem (Sep 18, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> Even if you don't plan to heat the slab, I would still try and get some insulation in under the slab and on the edges.



This is good advice.  In the couple I've done you lay out the XPS, then put down the vapor barrier, then lay out your rebar and tie it.  You can do VB then XPS too.


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## Highbeam (Sep 18, 2013)

curtis said:


> Alright, I have  my ground level and compacted and my holes drilled and inspected. Tonite I will mix the concrete and pour it in the holes and let it set up for a day. I have a question on the framing part for you. Where my service door is going to be do you not put the bottom skirt board on in that 3ft section? Or do you figure out floor height and cut a notch out of the top of the skirt board so that it is level with where the top of the concret floor will be? If you guyes have any pictures of framing out the door for me to look at i would appreicate it.


 
The bottom board is called a mud girt. It is treated of course. It made perfect sense to me to use the mud girt as a standard, leave in, form board. Top of mud girt is the top of concrete. Use it to screed the concrete and water will run over the mud girt instead of being held in.

I had to do a little touch up on the actual doorway to make the bottom perfectly level. It's tough to be very accurate when pouring between posts like that.


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## Highbeam (Sep 18, 2013)

lukem said:


> This is good advice.  In the couple I've done you lay out the XPS, then put down the vapor barrier, then lay out your rebar and tie it.  You can do VB then XPS too.


 
You can certainly use EPS too. It's only a truckload. EPS is rated for underslab and I picked up this 25 psi stuff at the factory. 6" of concrete only weighs 0.5 psi and the ground underneath is almost always weaker than standard home depot 15 psi EPS. No reason I've ever found to spend double on XPS under the slab. Now on the sides of the slab I did use XPS since it is more resistant to physical abuse.


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## curtis (Sep 18, 2013)

Thanks for the pictures Highbeam. I was going to ask if you can frame a service door of the corner post or not. I wasnt sure if you had to have X amount of space between the edge of the building and the door for trim or what not.


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## lukem (Sep 18, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> You can certainly use EPS too. It's only a truckload. EPS is rated for underslab and I picked up this 25 psi stuff at the factory. 6" of concrete only weighs 0.5 psi and the ground underneath is almost always weaker than standard home depot 15 psi EPS. No reason I've ever found to spend double on XPS under the slab. Now on the sides of the slab I did use XPS since it is more resistant to physical abuse.



Good point on EPS.  We bought a truckload of XPS used for next to nothing, so that's what we used on everything.  I think it worked out to a buck a sheet for 1/2" and $2 for 1.5".


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## Highbeam (Sep 18, 2013)

lukem said:


> Good point on EPS.  We bought a truckload of XPS used for next to nothing, so that's what we used on everything.  I think it worked out to a buck a sheet for 1/2" and $2 for 1.5".


 

Awesome deal. XPS is good stuff but retail price is double EPS and I have yet to find a good reason to spend so much more.


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## Highbeam (Sep 18, 2013)

curtis said:


> Thanks for the pictures Highbeam. I was going to ask if you can frame a service door of the corner post or not. I wasnt sure if you had to have X amount of space between the edge of the building and the door for trim or what not.


 
In my case, the posts were true 6x8 plus you have the outer girt at 1.5" plus the jack and king studs for 3" more. Left me over 12" between doorway and wall which was plenty to fit the corner trim and a sliver of siding.

Sorry for all the pics, you can ignore them if you'd like.


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## curtis (Sep 18, 2013)

No I love the pics, much easier for me to understand things when I am able to visualize them.


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## Gary_602z (Sep 18, 2013)

Key the board for the garage door openings and insert rerod in case you ever want to pour an approach.

Gary


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## PapaDave (Sep 18, 2013)

Not to dissuade you from doing a post building, but if I had it to do over, I'd just stick build the darn thing.
I ended up framing between posts so I could use batt insulation. 
I don't think I saved anything by doing it this way.


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## curtis (Sep 18, 2013)

Gary_602z said:


> Key the board for the garage door openings and insert rerod in case you ever want to pour an approach. Gary



I get what your saying, I just have no idea how/what that means.



PapaDave said:


> Not to dissuade you from doing a post building, but if I had it to do over, I'd just stick build the darn thing. I ended up framing between posts so I could use batt insulation. I don't think I saved anything by doing it this way.



I think the only thing that stopped me from stick building the whole this is the footing and block work. I would have to hire that out were with a pole barn i am going to try to do everything myself. Im a diesel mechanic and have very limited construction skills unfortunately.

Wich brings me to my next question... I just got done putting the concrete in the holes and by tomorrow they will be ready to have the posts set down on them. What is the best way to go about squaring the building up? Do i set the corner posts first and then run a string line down the sides and square/plum everything as i attach the bottom girt board?
If someone can kinda of give me a step by step on how to frame this thing i would greatly appreciate it.


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## Highbeam (Sep 19, 2013)

Pole vs. stick debate will go on forever. I too sticked out the walls of my pole building so I didn't save any lumber but I did get a roof thrown up fast and was able to build out the inside at my pace. With a stick built, you need to build and pay for it all at once. There are other benefits and drawbacks but both styles work well if done properly.



curtis said:


> Wich brings me to my next question... I just got done putting the concrete in the holes and by tomorrow they will be ready to have the posts set down on them. What is the best way to go about squaring the building up? Do i set the corner posts first and then run a string line down the sides and square/plum everything as i attach the bottom girt board? If someone can kinda of give me a step by step on how to frame this thing i would greatly appreciate it.


 
First set up your batter boards and string lines so that you have a perfectly square building "built" from string about 6" bigger than the outside of the proposed building. You should have done this before you dug your holes since you need 6" of mud between the wood and the dirt and your holes usually end up needing some extra digging.

Corner posts first and then the rest. Measure the spacing, 8-10-12 whatever, from the corner each time and not between each pole.

Set your corner posts in the hole. Plumb them and bonk them into the location. You will have lots of long 2x6s in a pile since you will need them for your girts. You will also need/want a bunch of cocrete stakes, those solid metal spikes with nail holes in them. Drive the stakes first and then while holding the pole plumb, have your buddy nail the bottom of the girt to the stake and then the girt to the pole. This is a good place for duplex nails. Two braces on each pole. Leave those braces there until the trusses are set. It will be a while. Once the poles are in the holes they will begin drying and bending so the faster you work from this point forward the better to prevent a wonky building from bent poles.

After all poles are braced you can again check each for plumb, location, and diaganol. Then backfill with concrete. I stuck two vertical rebar into the backfill that were later bent down and embedded in the slab.


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## lukem (Sep 19, 2013)

PapaDave said:


> Not to dissuade you from doing a post building, but if I had it to do over, I'd just stick build the darn thing.
> I ended up framing between posts so I could use batt insulation.
> I don't think I saved anything by doing it this way.



The last one I build we just tacked on some small cut-offs to each post, then ran 2x6's horizontally between the posts 16" OC.  When you screw your metal on the outside it takes the sag out of them.  That sets you up to run batts horizontally.


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## Highbeam (Sep 19, 2013)

lukem said:


> The last one I build we just tacked on some small cut-offs to each post, then ran 6x6's horizontally between the posts 16" OC.  When you screw your metal on the outside it takes the sag out of them.  That sets you up to run batts horizontally.


 

I think something is funny with your numbers. Do you mean you ran 2x6s horizontally? Some folks run interior girts just like your typical exterior girt to hang insulation and sheeting on the interior. Other folks use those goofy bookshelf girts between the poles to allow the metal on the outside and the sheeting on the inside to be attached to the  same girt.

Lumber is cheap. Time is the big expense plus the flow of cash to build can be so much slower on a pole structure. Building the building becomes a hobby all itself.


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## lukem (Sep 19, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> I think something is funny with your numbers. Do you mean you ran 2x6s horizontally? Some folks run interior girts just like your typical exterior girt to hang insulation and sheeting on the interior. Other folks use those goofy bookshelf girts between the poles to allow the metal on the outside and the sheeting on the inside to be attached to the  same girt.
> 
> Lumber is cheap. Time is the big expense plus the flow of cash to build can be so much slower on a pole structure. Building the building becomes a hobby all itself.



Uhhh...yeah...2x6...not 6x6.  Bookshelf girts.


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## curtis (Sep 19, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> First set up your batter boards and string lines so that you have a perfectly square building "built" from string about 6" bigger than the outside of the proposed building. You should have done this before you dug your holes since you need 6" of mud between the wood and the dirt and your holes usually end up needing some extra digging.


 
Ok, ya I did that in the beginning to mark where my holes need to be then i took down the strings and drilled my holes. Im not sure what you mean when you say 6'' bigger than the outside of the building. I had mine setup so that posts will go right up against the strings.



Highbeam said:


> Set your corner posts in the hole. Plumb them and bonk them into the location. You will have lots of long 2x6s in a pile since you will need them for your girts. You will also need/want a bunch of cocrete stakes, those solid metal spikes with nail holes in them. Drive the stakes first and then while holding the pole plumb, have your buddy nail the bottom of the girt to the stake and then the girt to the pole. This is a good place for duplex nails. Two braces on each pole. Leave those braces there until the trusses are set. It will be a while. Once the poles are in the holes they will begin drying and bending so the faster you work from this point forward the better to prevent a wonky building from bent poles.


 
Once I have all my posts in and square/plum do you start with the bottom treated mud skirt board? And I wont be pouring concrete around the posts, just fill dirt. After the poles are square/plum should I start to fill the holes in or wait till the bottom mud girt board is on?

Sorry for all the questions but you two guys seem to know alot about building so I figure I should get as much info from you as i can.
Thanks


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## begreen (Sep 19, 2013)

curtis said:


> Seems like everyone around my area has told me to use sand under the slab. I think I will use up the sand i have here already to bring it up to level with the rest of the surrounding ground and then maybe 6-12" of gravel on top.  I have the 6 mil poly sheeting and since the building wont be heated except for the radiant heat loos from my boiler I wont be putting pex in the concrete or the foam. What do you recommend on the saw cut for my 16x20? Should I cut it into four sections or more?


Our slab is on compacted gravel, then 2" sand with a 6mil poly topper. The slab was poured in Oct. and cured nicely. No insulation in the floor or the garage section. The small shop section is well insulated and has an insulated flooring on top.


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## Highbeam (Sep 19, 2013)

curtis said:


> Ok, ya I did that in the beginning to mark where my holes need to be then i took down the strings and drilled my holes. Im not sure what you mean when you say 6'' bigger than the outside of the building. I had mine setup so that posts will go right up against the strings.


 
I like my string lines 6" off from the actual building since if you touch the string with posts, even just one, the string line is no longer straight. Setting up your string without an offset requires perfection in construction that just isn't possible.



curtis said:


> Once I have all my posts in and square/plum do you start with the bottom treated mud skirt board? And I wont be pouring concrete around the posts, just fill dirt. After the poles are square/plum should I start to fill the holes in or wait till the bottom mud girt board is on?


 
Fill the holes and then install the mud girt. You're using dirt eh, I wouldn't do that. Dirt will compact and settle. If you must use dirt then be sure to compact like crazy with small lifts and even add water to be sure that you get compaction. I would rather used crushed rock than dirt for ease of compaction. I needed concrete for lateral strength, in other words, to resist the poles falling over. I use concrete on fenceposts too.

Installing the mud girt is a very important step since this determines your floor elevation and your ceiling height. It determines if your poles are long enough. It determines the grading around your building, it determines how much of your poles are underground. It also determines the levelness of your girts and your slab. Get the mud girt right. Think about it for awhile.

If your girt spacing is 24" like mine was, then cut a chunk of 2x6 18.5" long to use as a spacer. Set these chunks on top of the mudgirt and tack it to the pole. Set the next higher girt on that. Repeat a zillion times. You will be climbing the girts like a ladder to lift upper rows of girts into place.

Remember to load your gun with galvanized framing nails when attaching stuff to the treated posts. Supposedly the treatment chemical eats regular nails and it would be bad to lose this bond.


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## curtis (Sep 19, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> Fill the holes and then install the mud girt. You're using dirt eh, I wouldn't do that. Dirt will compact and settle. If you must use dirt then be sure to compact like crazy with small lifts and even add water to be sure that you get compaction. I would rather used crushed rock than dirt for ease of compaction. I needed concrete for lateral strength, in other words, to resist the poles falling over. I use concrete on fenceposts too. Installing the mud girt is a very important step since this determines your floor elevation and your ceiling height. It determines if your poles are long enough. It determines the grading around your building, it determines how much of your poles are underground. It also determines the levelness of your girts and your slab. Get the mud girt right. Think about it for awhile. If your girt spacing is 24" like mine was, then cut a chunk of 2x6 18.5" long to use as a spacer. Set these chunks on top of the mudgirt and tack it to the pole. Set the next higher girt on that. Repeat a zillion times. You will be climbing the girts like a ladder to lift upper rows of girts into place. Remember to load your gun with galvanized framing nails when attaching stuff to the treated posts. Supposedly the treatment chemical eats regular nails and it would be bad to lose this bond.


 
Ok thanks, I will look into the crushed rock around the poles. And I will be sure to get the bottom girt done right, I cant afford to screw this building up and have any major setbacks eventhough its only 14x20. I want to do it right the first time around.



Highbeam said:


> like my string lines 6" off from the actual building since if you touch the string with posts, even just one, the string line is no longer straight. Setting up your string without an offset requires perfection in construction that just isn't possible.


 
That makes alot of sense, I will adjust my strings to make that possible.


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## Highbeam (Sep 19, 2013)

curtis said:


> That makes alot of sense, I will adjust my strings to make that possible.


 
The next time you will need that string is when setting trusses to make sure that the tails are all perfectly aligned and your fascia/gutter will be nuts straight.

A lot of the things I do are overkill because I want to make it right at the expense of extra time.


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## lukem (Sep 19, 2013)

curtis said:


> And I will be sure to get the bottom girt done right,



A chalk line and a good (long) level are going to be you best friend on getting that done right.  Start in the corner that is highest relative to the grade (present and future) and lay everything out from that point.  If that point is too high you might have to do some digging.


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## curtis (Sep 19, 2013)

This is a local excavating company that I get my material from, they have a list of all the different material you can buy from them. http://www.danielspigndig.com/materialpricing.html
What would you reccomned for filling around the posts with?


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## curtis (Sep 20, 2013)

I have another question, since i am buidling this with 4x6's they guy at the lumber yard to put them like you would when building a 2x6 wall with 4'' part facing the outside and inside and the 6'' part facing the next pole.


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## Highbeam (Sep 20, 2013)

curtis said:


> I have another question, since i am buidling this with 4x6's they guy at the lumber yard to put them like you would when building a 2x6 wall with 4'' part facing the outside and inside and the 6'' part facing the next pole.


 
Yes. The girts will link posts to strengthen the posts in the skinny direction, this to resist the gable end winds. The thicker dimension will resist side wind loads.

Are 4x6s that much cheaper than the regular 6x6s?


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## curtis (Sep 22, 2013)

How far up do you start the steel for the walls on the mud girt. From what I have read online you don't start the steel at the bottom of the mud girt but 3.5" up from the bottom. Does that sound right?


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## Highbeam (Sep 23, 2013)

curtis said:


> How far up do you start the steel for the walls on the mud girt. From what I have read online you don't start the steel at the bottom of the mud girt but 3.5" up from the bottom. Does that sound right?


 
I used a 2x8 for my mud girt and came down about 2.5". The purpose was so that the bottom screws could be about one inch from the bottom edge of the metal and so that I was into the "meat" of the mud girt with those bottom screws. I also put housewrap between the metal and the girts and have been very happy with that small investment. Again, it is important to get your mud girt level so that you always have something to screw into.

Don't bury the metal for several reasons. Be certain that you have at least a couple of inches of exposed mud girt between the metal and the soil. Just like a house you need a way for drainage to occur at the bottom of the siding from the inside. Plus you need to be sure that mice have access to the bottom of the siding ribs!


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