# load for 1/2 ton pickup?



## blacktail (Oct 19, 2011)

Any rules of thumb for how much wood can be loaded in a half ton pickup? It's not like I can weigh the wood as I load it in my F150. I know it's gonna vary depending on wood type, how dry the wood is, specs for the individual truck, etc. I loaded fir and hemlock even with the top of the bed rails yesterday and was barely able to notice a difference in handling or rear sag. I was very comfortable with this load but wouldn't mind adding maybe another layer and filling in some of the gaps. I'm not really looking to go much higher because that would require sideboards or some kind of netting over the load and I'm not interested in doing either or those. FWIW, the wood from yesterday was logging leftovers that had been down for several months to maybe over a year.


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## BlankBlankBlank (Oct 19, 2011)

JamiePNW78, I just look at the distance between the tires and the wheel wells, giving the truck a push or two to test the suspension.  Never had a problem.


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## Danno77 (Oct 19, 2011)

Get to know the leaf springs and tires and height when it's empty, then load it up. The day that you drive it and are scared, then get another good look at everything. That can be your gauge.


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## MasterMech (Oct 19, 2011)

Just take a peek at the bumpstops over the rear axle.  If the rubber bumpers are touching the axle then it's prob time to stop loading.  Truck in the photo looks pretty comfortable with that load.


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## Bigg_Redd (Oct 19, 2011)

JamiePNW78 said:
			
		

> Any rules of thumb for how much wood can be loaded in a half ton pickup? It's not like I can weigh the wood as I load it in my F150. I know it's gonna vary depending on wood type, how dry the wood is, specs for the individual truck, etc. I loaded fir and hemlock even with the top of the bed rails yesterday and was barely able to notice a difference in handling or rear sag. I was very comfortable with this load but wouldn't mind adding maybe another layer and filling in some of the gaps. I'm not really looking to go much higher because that would require sideboards or some kind of netting over the load and I'm not interested in doing either or those. FWIW, the wood from yesterday was logging leftovers that had been down for several months to maybe over a year.




This is one of those things you'll have to figure out for yourself - it's a lot more about feel and experience than direct knowledge.  However, that looks about right.  If you're going a short distance or if you can drive slow I say load 'er down.

The real question is how'd you let yourself get talked into a half ton?


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## Gary_602z (Oct 19, 2011)

Depending on how far you have to drive and how fast I wouldn't be afraid to load it up!  

 I run 10 ply tires on the rear of my 99GMC half ton and stack it as high as I can!

Gary


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## MasterMech (Oct 19, 2011)

Gary_602z said:
			
		

> Depending on how far you have to drive and how fast I wouldn't be afraid to load it up!
> 
> I run 10 ply tires on the rear of my 99GMC half ton and stack it as high as I can!
> 
> Gary



Def more tire than truck there! lol

I have 'E' range 10-Plys on my 1 ton and with 80 PSI in 'em they barely squat with 4000 lbs on the truck!


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## blacktail (Oct 19, 2011)

Thanks guys. I went easy on it but I'm still happy that my truck didn't seem to notice the load. It had plenty of suspension travel when I sat on the tailgate to take my boots off. A lot of the wood was fairly dry so it didn't weigh too much. I'll go ahead and top it off when I cut tomorrow. It's an easy 30 minute drive with only a mile or two of good gravel road. 
My dad and I usually take his 3/4 ton GMC but it's wearing the camper right now. To my truck's credit, it's a more comfortable ride and much easier at the gas pump.


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## timfromohio (Oct 19, 2011)

I used to drive an F150 - the cheapest one made:  V6, short bed, regular cab, 5spd, 1wd.  My abuse of the load rating was a complex equation in my head based on (1) distance I needed to travel, (2) whether or not the wood was located far from a road, (3) number of hills between wood location and home, and (4) how lucky I was feeling on that particular day.  I seriously abused the load rating and never had problems - was just very careful to leave appropriate braking distance, didn't go too fast, and really never traveled more than about 10 miles between wood location and home.  Your truck was just beginning to squat - keep loading!


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## yooperdave (Oct 19, 2011)

just load her up and drive slow!  take a look at the leaf springs-are they flat or still a little arch in 'em?  
looks like you could drive quite a distance no problem.
however...when you hit dips in the road (lots around here), and you loose your ability to steer for a brief period, then you are overloaded!!


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## smokinj (Oct 19, 2011)

Always just watch your clearance, add a trailer and save your truck for gear!  ;-)


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## lukem (Oct 19, 2011)

JamiePNW78 said:
			
		

> Thanks guys. I went easy on it but I'm still happy that my truck didn't seem to notice the load. It had plenty of suspension travel when I sat on the tailgate to take my boots off. A lot of the wood was fairly dry so it didn't weigh too much. I'll go ahead and top it off when I cut tomorrow. It's an easy 30 minute drive with only a mile or two of good gravel road.
> My dad and I usually take his 3/4 ton GMC but it's wearing the camper right now. To my truck's credit, it's a more comfortable ride and much easier at the gas pump.



I have basically the same truck (2WD F-150 Ext Cab 6.5' bed) but a few years newer.  That looks WELL within the safe load limit.  My gauge is the distance between the bump stops and the axle, rather than how full the bed looks.  If you plan on hauling a lot of firewood on that truck, you might consider scaling it at a grain elevator or truck stop.  I did that to mine with a load of gravel.  I had about 2,500lb on there...and made a mental note of the distance from the bump stop to the axle.  2,500 is about right....heavy...but still very drive-able (although legally overweight with my 6,000 lb plates).  If I had to guess, that load looks to be about 1,200 - 1,500 lbs.


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## oldspark (Oct 19, 2011)

When your driving down the road and you're looking at sky you know the loads too high.


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## Danno77 (Oct 19, 2011)

Here's a picture of a half ton with 3800lbs on it. Don't always go by ride height.


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## DMZX (Oct 19, 2011)

Here is a document that list some wet and dry weights for cords of various wood species: http://www.ianrpubs.unl.edu/epublic/live/g1554/build/g1554.pdf 

That could be used for a very general guide on possible load weights.

Long ago I hauled wood in a Datsun PU and always over loaded it some.  It was a good little hauler, but the strain on the drive train and brakes became apparent after a few seasons.  Replaced two clutches, U-joints, carrier bearing and brake pads.  I eventually sold it and went with a full sized Chevy 1/2 Ton.

I currently haul wood in my Tundra DC which can hold 1,500lbs.  A good load is just over 1/2 cord, and I cut only soft woods, (fir/spruce/pine), so I do not think I ever over load it.  My loads look much like yours.


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## mecreature (Oct 19, 2011)

I had a load that size of BL in the back of my 04 chevy last year. 
Then 4 guys jump in to help add some weight to get me out of the snow.

dont go that route.

I usually stop when I am level. then toss some splits on top of that.
it varies drastically.

JMO


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## bogydave (Oct 19, 2011)

Heavier stuff forward.
You can load the forward part of the bed with more weight. Weight 
forward of the rear tires, distributes the load more evenly. 
More weight on the front ties & more control.
Like you, I have a short bed, X-cab style. You should be able to load it full level with just about any wood & be fine.
Some in the back seat area?? LOL (I've been tempted but not done it yet)  I bet some have.


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## Kenster (Oct 19, 2011)

timfromohio said:
			
		

> I used to drive an F150 - the cheapest one made:  V6, short bed, regular cab, 5spd, *1wd.*!



One wheel drive??  Go around in circles much?


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## Kenster (Oct 19, 2011)

I load my F150 to the gunwalls and a wee bit more.  I don't notice it all except for braking so have to be careful.   With an older F150 I had years ago I carried a pallet of St Augustine grass home.  The front wheels barely touched the road.  That was kinda scary.  and stupid on my part.


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## blacktail (Oct 19, 2011)

I found a comfortable level for me and my truck. I loaded it a little higher, and the wood we cut today wasn't as dry as last time. On the way home the only thing I noticed was the braking. If I was to get on the gas I probably would have noticed the weight then too. It wasn't until I got home that I noticed how low the bumper was. It wasn't parked on a good level spot when we were cutting so it was hard to judge. I did look under the rear end before leaving for home and the springs and gap below the stops looked fine. We also loaded the heavy, wetter stuff in the front with the lighter dry stuff in the rear.
There was hemlock everywhere in the spot we went today. It's not my favorite but I'll take it. Probably got about 2/3 hemlock and then a mix of maple and alder for the rest. 





My dad and his 30ish year old Stihl.





Made it home just fine.


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## bogydave (Oct 20, 2011)

Jamie
Nice job & great pics.
Wood looks pretty dry already. Good deal & allot less weight.
wheelbarrow looks like mine; well used


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## jotul8e2 (Oct 20, 2011)

Just to make sure you could pull into a truck stop and get on the scale.  Subtract their figure from the published empty weight and you have your load.

Years ago I was hauling a load of firewood and came over a very slight rise to discover a 68 Camaro parked in my lane, with another car less than half way off the road in the other lane!  Deep ditches were on either side, so I pumped the brakes a few times and then put all my weight down on the pedal and wished HARD  Although I was doing only about 45 when I came over the hill, it was amazing to me how long it took to even begin to slow down.  I booted that Camero into the next county.

We still have the truck - an 86 Chevy half ton.  I don't haul wood with it anymore though.

But really, there are three issues in overloading a pickup.  1) Braking; 2) Premature wear on your bearings (which you will only learn about later); 3) The results of your load shifting under hard braking (or a collision) and coming through the cab.  The consequences of a 15 lb. split coming through the back window at, say, 25 mph is something to think about.


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## timfromohio (Oct 20, 2011)

Kenster said:
			
		

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No limited slip differential - made driving around up  here in NEOhio very interesting in the winter!


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## OhioBurner© (Oct 20, 2011)

timfromohio said:
			
		

> I used to drive an F150 - the cheapest one made:  V6, short bed, regular cab, 5spd, 1wd.


Sounds about the same here, 99 V6 short bed, regular cab, 5sp, but mine is 4x4. Also only XL package, non of that super fancy stuff like power windows! And its still going strong. I forget what the actual load rating is and ride height is skewed with my taller blocks anyhow. I have a cap on it and a few times I've put plywood up against the windows in the cap and loaded it up, not all the way to the roof of the cap but maybe another foot above the bed rails. The last row was pretty much empty though, to leave space for my bag and gear and stuff. Handled just fine, and even went off the road around a corner into a ditch when someone coming the other way on a narrow dirt road kinda forced me off. Luckily was able to drive right back up onto the road, though the wife was kinda shaken up with branches whacking the windshiled right infront of her! Had I not had the cap on, I bet I would have lost several rounds when I hit the ditch though.

I still take the 150 when I want to drive back into the woods. Never got that thing stuck off road yet. Here I am getting some wood last winter:




Its amazing what just a little 2" lift and some slightly bigger mudders can do. 





			
				jotul8e2 said:
			
		

> But really, there are three issues in overloading a pickup.  1) Braking; 2) Premature wear on your bearings (which you will only learn about later); 3) The results of your load shifting under hard braking (or a collision) and coming through the cab.  The consequences of a 15 lb. split coming through the back window at, say, 25 mph is something to think about.



1]Braking should just be common sense... as you'll rarely ever load wood up in a truck more than it can handle braking - I mean most half tons today can tow 5,000-to nearly 10k #. In a short bed heaped your probably looking at 3,000 or less for sure. Yeah you'll need more distance for braking but it should be well within specs loaded or overloaded.
2]I agree entirely and if you plan on overloading a 1/2 t a lot, plan on getting a truck that was built for it (3/4, 1t etc). Half ton bearings and joints arent designed for the extra stress.
3]Again that should be common sense whether your overloaded, properly loaded, or just carrying your saw and axe in the back. Regardless of 1/2t or 1t. Any object in the back can be a projectile. Unless you have it all netted down, and attached to something a lot tougher than the factory tie downs, about the only other good protection against that is a headache rack. In my 150 I do at least have a few layers, the truck window, the cap window, and the boards I put over the window. On my 1 ton I built my own rack and there are 3 2x6's across the back window with maybe an inch or so of space between them.

Personally the biggest thing I'd be concerned about is your tires. You'll probably have D rated tires at best, unless you swapped em up. For a reasonable load you should be fine but I'm sure the 1/2t Dodge with 3800# in it was over a D rated tire. Bad things happen when you blow a tire loaded with that much weight including killing people, you dont want to kill a couple of kids and their grandparents on there way back from church or something (or anyone of course). I overload my 1 ton and trailer every now and then and I do get nervous... wouldnt be a big deal by myself on a country road with no traffic but I drive on the highway with my wife and son. The e rated tires get a little warm, but the trailer tires get very warm... I'll be upgrading those.


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## timfromohio (Oct 21, 2011)

Nice truck Ohioburner!  I had no complaints about my F150 - I routinely got 20mpg driving back and forth to work and consistently abused the load limits.  I got rid of it as I needed a vehicle that would (1) carry my kids, (2) wife could drive (not good with stick shift) and wanted something that was 4wd/awd.  

I do sort of miss it ....


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## CodyWayne718 (Oct 21, 2011)

Load'em til the shackles break, well that's what I did anyway!


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## jotul8e2 (Oct 21, 2011)

"1]Braking should just be common senseâ€¦ as youâ€™ll rarely ever load wood up in a truck more than it can handle braking - I mean most half tons today can tow 5,000-to nearly 10k #. In a short bed heaped your probably looking at 3,000 or less for sure. Yeah youâ€™ll need more distance for braking but it should be well within specs loaded or overloaded.
2]I agree entirely and if you plan on overloading a 1/2 t a lot, plan on getting a truck that was built for it (3/4, 1t etc). Half ton bearings and joints arent designed for the extra stress.
3]Again that should be common sense whether your overloaded, properly loaded, or just carrying your saw and axe in the back. Regardless of 1/2t or 1t. Any object in the back can be a projectile. Unless you have it all netted down, and attached to something a lot tougher than the factory tie downs, about the only other good protection against that is a headache rack. In my 150 I do at least have a few layers, the truck window, the cap window, and the boards I put over the window. On my 1 ton I built my own rack and there are 3 2x6â€™s across the back window with maybe an inch or so of space between them."

Good thoughts, but unfortunately there is nothing less common than common sense.  You can easily load an 8' bed on a 1/2 ton pickup to well beyond its load limit with hardwood.  Shortbeds, probably not.  What a truck can tow and what it can carry are two entirely different things.  A trailer has its own suspension, tires, and if of any size, brakes.  The current typical Ford F150 has a load rating of maybe 3,000 lbs., but a 10 or 15 year old model may well be a third less.  As for risking log launch, how many of us have been guilty of tossing on "just a few more" after the bed is level full, with no netting, headache rack, or anything?  I can't be the only one.

I forgot all about tires, but they are another consideration, to be sure.  If you think you are at or maybe beyond the design load capacity you can mitigate (not eliminate!) the risk of blowouts by keeping the speed down - way down.  Like 45 mph.  This keeps heat buildup to a minimum.

On a positive note, brakes have really gotten better this last 10 years or so.  ABS is a powerful tool.

We all (and I am speaking sternly to myself here) need to realize the havoc we can wreak with a ton and a half of loose firewood gone out of control.  These days I only haul wood on my own property and this thread has made me realize I have gotten careless.  Should I need to go on the road with a load of wood I am going to have to really think about what I am doing.


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## KarlP (Oct 21, 2011)

OhioBurnerÂ© said:
			
		

> 1]Braking should just be common sense... as you'll rarely ever load wood up in a truck more than it can handle braking - I mean most half tons today can tow 5,000-to nearly 10k #. In a short bed heaped your probably looking at 3,000 or less for sure. Yeah you'll need more distance for braking but it should be well within specs loaded or overloaded.



The current generation of trucks stops a LOT better than their ancestors.  However, if you read the owners manuals midsize and 150/1500 series truck makers still say you must have trailer brakes if the trailer weighs more than 1500 or 2000lbs.  Trailer brakes make a HUGE difference.


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## MasterMech (Oct 21, 2011)

KarlP said:
			
		

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In NY (many other states?) It is required, if a trailer is rated to carry over 3000lbs it must have it own braking system.  Take a look at your local TSC or Lowes/HD.  Their trailers are all rated at 2999lbs GVWR despite having 3500lb rated axles under them.  That avoids the cost of having to install electric brakes.

I've seen some scary tow rigs out there.  Usually low-budget landscapers/lawn maint guys that bought a used trailer and never put a controller in the truck.  I'm glad to see that HD 3/4 and 1 ton trucks now are coming with trailer wiring (7-Way) and brake controlers pre-installed as a factory tow package.  IMHO this needs to be extended to 1/2 ton trucks too if it isn't spreading there already.

The whole "Drive Carefully" philosphy is great but doesn't take into account others who may run lights/stop signs or any other unexpected events.


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## MarkinNC (Oct 21, 2011)

OhioBurnerÂ© said:
			
		

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## timfromohio (Oct 21, 2011)

My f150 had neither 4wd or a lift but I can say that I'd envision a mild lift being very useful depending on snow depth - stock 4wd vehicles often don't have enough lift and just wind up pushing the snow from in front of the vehicle.  I know you live in the NC mountains, but I can tell you that even around Boone or Asheville (I spent a total of 18 years living in NC) you don't get the snow that you can up here, especially the lake effect snow.


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## OhioBurner© (Oct 21, 2011)

KarlP said:
			
		

> The current generation of trucks stops a LOT better than their ancestors.  However, if you read the owners manuals midsize and 150/1500 series truck makers still say you must have trailer brakes if the trailer weighs more than 1500 or 2000lbs.  Trailer brakes make a HUGE difference.



Yeah I didnt figure in that those tow ratings factor in having trailer brakes. And once you go back a couple of generations yeah the braking sucks on the older models. 

I wasnt aware in NY there was a set limit for trailer w/o brakes regardless of tow vehicle. Been several years since I lived there. It doesnt surprise me though they are getting pretty out of control with all the rules there. After pulling various trailers with my F350, I'm not even concerned with trailer brakes at the 3,000# area, which I pull frequently. Now I do also pull that plus nearly a cord in the bed so the weight adds up, and I do want to put a bigger axle and brakes on it.



			
				jotul8e2 said:
			
		

> Good thoughts, but unfortunately there is nothing less common than common sense.  You can easily load an 8' bed on a 1/2 ton pickup to well beyond its load limit with hardwood.  Shortbeds, probably not.  What a truck can tow and what it can carry are two entirely different things.  A trailer has its own suspension, tires, and if of any size, brakes.  The current typical Ford F150 has a load rating of maybe 3,000 lbs., but a 10 or 15 year old model may well be a third less.  As for risking log launch, how many of us have been guilty of tossing on "just a few more" after the bed is level full, with no netting, headache rack, or anything?  I can't be the only one.


Well your right about common sense lol. And my point about the payload vs towing rating pertains to trailers without brakes... it shouldnt matter much if the weight is on the trailer or on the truck as far as the brakes are concerned. If a truck can tow X amount of weight without extra trailer brakes, then it can haul the same weight in the truck (as long as it doesnt exceed the trucks payload capability). I'm just muddying up the waters though, shouldnt have mentioned it.



			
				MarkinNC said:
			
		

> I'll have to respectfully disagree with you on the mudders for snow.  I have found them to be terrible compared to an all season radial or a mud and snow tire in the snow.
> 
> I use my truck as a truck and it is used off road collecting firewood.  the terrain is pretty steep here in the mountains and I have to use 4WD a lot.  I can't think of one situation ever where a lift would have helped me.  Then there is the changes to the drive train geometry that do not make it stronger, though 2 inches should not be bad.



Yeah 2" isnt a big deal but it has helped me plenty of times. In fact I've been beached or high centered or whatever you want to call it a few times even with the lift, bigger tires, and short wheelbase. Luckily my buddy was there to help and we always got it freed up. I imagine with a few less inches of clearance we would have been stuck for good but thats just a guess. I dont believe in jacking a truck way up.

About the only time I have found MY mudders to be worse than all terrains is on the road, so I also have to respectfully disagree. And I have taken AT's in snow up to the bumper several times so I do know they are good. And not just Ohio snow but northern NY snow. Now like I said on the road a good AT is better. I do have 2 complete sets of 4 tires, one set with the AT's and the other with the Kumho MTs. I think the specific pattern really makes a difference too. Most mudders have huge smooth lugs with no siping and big gaps. The ones I got have much smaller tightly spaced lugs more like an AT, and I have had them siped. I also have a set of super swamper TSL's on my 78 bronco and the Kumho's literally have over 2 lugs for every 1 of the super swamper. It also makes a difference what the terrain is. If its firm and light snow the AT might be better, if its sloppy or packy like it is here most the time the mudder has done be better. I can't seem to find a pic zoomed in of the tires but in this one you can see the lugs are smaller and closer than most, kind of like a hybrid mud/at tire:


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## aansorge (Oct 22, 2011)

I haul about that much wood in a cheap 4 by 8 trailer with wood sides and pulled by a BMW 318i.  But I drive sloooowwwww.


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## MarkinNC (Oct 22, 2011)

OhioBurnerÂ© said:
			
		

> KarlP said:
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I was specifically referring to tire performance on the road.  Those tires pictured are not what I had in mind when I read mudders.  I was thinking of a wider tire.  I talked to one of my tire guys not long ago and he was sent to a driving school on tires (I was considering a more aggressive tire for off road use but not what I would call a mudder).  His position is that there is very little actual performance difference between most tires "off road."  I can't validate that one way or the other.


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## aussiedog3 (Oct 22, 2011)

I work at a sand, gravel and stone supplier.  See pickup trucks loaded all day long.
Thought truck companies should film their commercials at our site.
Nothing handles the weight like a Dodge.  Way to go Danno.
I've seen 2.99 tons go out on an old half ton Dodge, barely squated.


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## MofoG23 (Oct 22, 2011)

aussiedog3 said:
			
		

> I work at a sand, gravel and stone supplier.  See pickup trucks loaded all day long.
> Thought truck companies should film their commercials at our site.
> Nothing handles the weight like a Dodge.  Way to go Danno.
> I've seen 2.99 tons go out on an old half ton Dodge, barely squated.




Make sure you take a peak at the rear axle, I'm sure most of those 1/2 tons that don't squat with 3 ton have something in addition to the leafs.... I think Danno runs Timbrens.


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## OhioBurner© (Oct 23, 2011)

aussiedog3 said:
			
		

> I work at a sand, gravel and stone supplier.  See pickup trucks loaded all day long.
> Thought truck companies should film their commercials at our site.
> Nothing handles the weight like a Dodge.  Way to go Danno.
> I've seen 2.99 tons go out on an old half ton Dodge, barely squated.



If 6000# on a half ton dodge (or any other half ton) only barely squated it, its either because the truck was already sitting on the bump stops, or its got a way upgraded suspension. If your just reffering to the look of the back being lower than the front then my truck even sitting on the bump stops barely looks level as long as the weight was centered a little forward causing the front to go down as well.



			
				MarkinNC said:
			
		

> I was specifically referring to tire performance on the road.  Those tires pictured are not what I had in mind when I read mudders.  I was thinking of a wider tire.


Yeah then you are correct, I can't really think of any situation on the road that mudders would be better. Well... maybe a few but I'm really fishing here. Yeah the ones I have are very mild for a mudder, and even though they were quite a bit larger than stock, it seems trucks now-a-days are comming with tires that big already. They are 285/75/16 and my stock was 255/70/16. I think we are going off on a tanget though...


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## Dix (Oct 23, 2011)

MasterMech said:
			
		

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Yep, if you can't stop, you're in trouble. Better to be safe than sorry IMHO.

I have the integrated tow command in the F250 I love it. Plugs @ bumper and in the rhinolining, pulls the gooseneck like a dream. Once we get up to speed, I don't even know the trailer is back there.


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## marreque (Oct 24, 2011)

if the bumper is touching the ground, or the front tires are off the ground, you have too much wood in the bed. 
just throwing it out there


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