# Chainsaw Lumbermaking by Will Malloff



## thewoodlands (May 15, 2011)

We bought this off of Amazon used and it came in Friday, it's a hardcover and in great shape so the only thing I'm waiting on is the mill with the ez rails for the stihl 660 so I can start milling.






Zap


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## Thistle (May 15, 2011)

Zap,

You'll be amazed how much info is packed into that 'bible of micro-milling'.I've had my copy almost 19 yrs now & still go back to it  all the time.I just wish that Taunton Press (the original publisher & the company behind Fine Woodworking magazine) or someone else would reprint it,so many more could have the chance at an affordable copy thats available everywhere.Over the years I've had a few offers for my 1st Edition 1982 copy from $80 to over $250.Even with the few expected grease smudged & underlined pages.I turned down every one.


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## thewoodlands (May 15, 2011)

Thistle said:
			
		

> Zap,
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> You'll be amazed how much info is packed into that 'bible of micro-milling'.I've had my copy almost 19 yrs now & still go back to it  all the time.I just wish that Taunton Press (the original publisher & the company behind Fine Woodworking magazine) or someone else would reprint it,so many more could have the chance at an affordable copy thats available everywhere.Over the years I've had a few offers for my 1st Edition 1982 copy from $80 to over $250.Even with the few expected grease smudged & underlined pages.I turned down every one.





Just checked and it is from 1982, looks like with the weather and some stacking I'll be doing I'll start reading it Sunday night.



Zap


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## thewoodlands (May 25, 2011)

Thistle said:
			
		

> Zap,
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> You'll be amazed how much info is packed into that 'bible of micro-milling'.I've had my copy almost 19 yrs now & still go back to it  all the time.I just wish that Taunton Press (the original publisher & the company behind Fine Woodworking magazine) or someone else would reprint it,so many more could have the chance at an affordable copy thats available everywhere.Over the years I've had a few offers for my 1st Edition 1982 copy from $80 to over $250.Even with the few expected grease smudged & underlined pages.I turned down every one.







Thistle, I see in the book he cut down the bar cover so the shavings won't collect inside have you or smokin tried this.




Zap


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## smokinj (May 25, 2011)

You can learn something new everyday with this book! I was looking at the re-saw pages and thats when the real deal on the mini mill hit me. (this pic is very close to what you see in the book) Hes saw I believe is the 020.


AWESOME BOOK BTW!


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## smokinj (May 25, 2011)

Thistle said:
			
		

> Zap,
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> You'll be amazed how much info is packed into that 'bible of micro-milling'.I've had my copy almost 19 yrs now & still go back to it all the time.I just wish that Taunton Press (the original publisher & the company behind Fine Woodworking magazine) or someone else would reprint it,so many more could have the chance at an affordable copy thats available everywhere.Over the years I've had a few offers for my 1st Edition 1982 copy from $80 to over $250.Even with the few expected grease smudged & underlined pages.I turned down every one.



250.00 Not uncommon price for one! I would be afraid to even open it! lol


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## thewoodlands (May 25, 2011)

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Smokin I just spoke with the Wood Chop Shop and they think the ez rails came in, one step closer for that big pine to become boards of some type.





Zap


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## smokinj (May 25, 2011)

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I would make nice size cants until you have the project in mind. Then its just a re-saw to size. 4, 6, 8, maybe even 10 and 12 inchs thick You would be ready for just about anything. 8-10 foot long.


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## Battenkiller (May 25, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> I would make nice size cants until you have the project in mind. Then its just a re-saw to size. 4, 6, 8, maybe even 10 and 12 inchs thick You would be ready for just about anything. 8-10 foot long.



Great idea!  I'd be worried that without the protective bark on them the cants might check and crack over time, though.  Maybe seal them somehow?


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## smokinj (May 25, 2011)

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Wax or paint the ends. You want to lose any extra moisture any ways. Much less warping with the big cants. Then when you know what you need just start ripping. (or mini milling)


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## Battenkiller (May 25, 2011)

Here's a shot of the rail stands I made for my carving buddy.  I used some discarded telescoping galvy tubing.  It already had the holes punched in every 3", all I had to do was weld a couple sections of the larger size onto the cross rails and weld on some angle iron (old bed frame) for the feet.  And of course, keep it all square when I welded it together.  I just love making cool stuff out of scrap.

Next time I'm out there, I will cut the legs about 4" up from the base and insert 1 1/8" lally post screws for fine adjusters.  They fit just right in there.  Should be able to get both rails perfectly in the same plane that way.  Two pieces of string across the diagonals will get them co-planar in a few minutes, even on very uneven terrain. Best part is they come apart in seconds and can be transported taking up very little space.

Those sweet rails he had made as a favor from a local metal shop he helped save from destruction (he used to be fire chief).  They are heavy-walled square aluminum tubing, and have tabs TIG welded onto them so he could drive lag bolts into real big logs to make the first cut.  Now he can just set the long rails on top of the cross rails and make the first cut that way, even on very crooked logs.  With the four adjusters in place, he could even mill a long taper on subsequent cuts if he ever wanted to.


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## smokinj (May 25, 2011)

Battenkiller said:
			
		

> Here's a shot of the rail stands I made for my carving buddy.  I used some discarded telescoping galvy tubing.  It already had the holes punched in every 3", all I had to do was weld a couple sections of the larger size onto the cross rails and weld on some angle iron (old bed frame) for the feet.  And of course, keep it all square when I welded it together.  I just love making cool stuff out of scrap.
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> Next time I'm out there, I will cut the legs about 4" up from the base and insert 1 1/8" lally post screws for fine adjusters.  They fit just right in there.  Should be able to get both rails perfectly in the same plane that way.  Two pieces of string across the diagonals will get them co-planar in a few minutes, even on very uneven terrain. Best part is they come apart in seconds and can be transported taking up very little space.
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> Those sweet rails he had made as a favor from a local metal shop he helped save from destruction (he used to be fire chief).  They are heavy-walled square aluminum tubing, and have tabs TIG welded onto them so he could drive lag bolts into real big logs to make the first cut.  Now he can just set the long rails on top of the cross rails and make the first cut that way, even on very crooked logs.  With the four adjusters in place, he could even mill a long taper on subsequent cuts if he ever wanted to.



Thats slick!


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## Battenkiller (May 25, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> Wax or paint the ends. You want to lose any extra moisture any ways. Much less warping with the big cants. Then when you know what you need just start ripping. (or mini milling)



I wasn't talking about the ends, I meant checking on the milled faces.  Whenever I carve a log, two days later it is covered in long cracks because I removed the bark when I carved it.  Gotta finish and seal it right away, otherwise it can crack real bad.  Even then, the thick carvings usually crack at some point in the future.  Ever seen a big beam in a barn that didn't have cracks in it?  Thicker the wood, easier for it to crack when it's drying.  If I re-saw guitar wood 1/4" thick for tops it never, ever cracks, even if cut green.  I once lost a couple huge cants of sitka spruce by waiting a week to re-saw them after my band saw broke.  Not good for much except bracing. Heartbreaking.


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## smokinj (May 25, 2011)

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Bees Wax Applied to Top and Bottom. Cut Ends done with Paraffin Wax. If your trying to stop all checking. This is how I do black walnut. Outdoors stuff I will just do the ends and let it check.


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## Battenkiller (May 25, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> Thats slick!



He's happy.   ;-) 


Gotta take good care of him, he's gone way out of his way to help me along with my carving.  Not his fault I'm a slow learner. :roll: 


These things can come back to bite you in the ass, though.  Last week he called up and asked if I could bring my welder out to fit in a "little sheet metal" into the truck he's restoring.  I get there and he had removed all the old paint and Bondo, and under all that were three separate holes about a foot across, curves and all.  Then he brings out the sheet metal and it's 16 ga. steel.  :wow: 


I told him it was just about impossible to fit that stuff in place, but eight hours later we had pounded all of it out on the anvil close enough to tack in place with the MIG.  Then no matter how hard I tried I couldn't get good penetration on the heavy stuff without blasting holes in the thin stuff.  Total nightmare, but it ain't going anywhere soon.  Next time he asks, I think I'll tell him the welder bounced out of the truck on the way home.


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## smokinj (May 25, 2011)

Battenkiller said:
			
		

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Amazing the better you get at somthing the harder the jobs get. :cheese:


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## smokinj (May 26, 2011)

Out of pm's Zap.... :coolsmirk: 3/8 0.50. cutters are at 10 degrees, rakers you will want to get more aggressive each time you file. Not sure on the drive links on a 36inch bar. My 41 is 135.


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## Battenkiller (May 26, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> Out of pm's Zap.... :coolsmirk: 3/8 0.50. cutters are at 10 degrees, rakers you will want to get more aggressive each time you file. Not sure on the drive links on a 36inch bar. My 41 is 135.



3/8 0.*0*50 I think you mean... or that is one monster chassis on that chain.  Probably need two men just to pick up the bar.   ;-P


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## smokinj (May 26, 2011)

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How many drive links in a 36 inch bar? Zap trying to get his mill set-up.


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## Battenkiller (May 26, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> How many drive links in a 36 inch bar? Zap trying to get his mill set-up.



No clue, but I wish I had a saw that would pull that much chain. :cheese: 

Who made the bar?  I imagine there is some variability, a link or two one way or the other depending on the particular bar.  He's probably getting the milling chain from Bailey's, don't they know?


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## smokinj (May 26, 2011)

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Its a stihl es 36 inch bar. Think Zap putty together a milling shipping list.


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## thewoodlands (May 26, 2011)

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The bar is the Rollomatic ES from Stihl, 3/8.0.050 and 114 Links. That is off the side of the bar.





Zap


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## smokinj (May 26, 2011)

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Thats what you would order then. Might look at the woodland pros. Better review and much cheaper as well.

http://www.baileysonline.com/category.asp?catID=11828


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## Battenkiller (May 26, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> Might look at the woodland pros. Better review and much cheaper as well.



Made by Carlton?


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## thewoodlands (May 26, 2011)

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## smokinj (May 26, 2011)

Battenkiller said:
			
		

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Not sure who makes it. Thought woodland pro was there own company. (not sure though) All there chain is pretty good. Milling chain Its as good as the stihl chain I have.


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## Thistle (May 26, 2011)

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My Poulan 475 has 115 links on 36" chain,.063gauge.I believe Husky 288XP,395XP & 3120XP with same bar has same number of links.I know that their factory bars fit my 475 & vice versa.


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## thewoodlands (May 26, 2011)

Thistle said:
			
		

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What are the different ways you can identify a ripping chain.



Zap


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## Thistle (May 26, 2011)

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When I first got started years ago I had local shop (where I bought my saws & other stuff) make me a few loops. He started with regular full chisel,removed every 3rd tooth to make it a skip tooth & ground the remaining ones at 10 degrees to the same specs that Will recommends in his book.


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## smokinj (May 26, 2011)

;-P 





			
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Much cheaper to get a woodland. Oh how about a rs full chisel 41inch? Non skipper.  Zap the easiest the way I can tell is the angel on the cutter its self it really shows up.


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## Thistle (May 26, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> Much cheaper to get a woodland. Oh how about a rs full chisel 41inch? Non skipper.  Zap the easiest the way I can tell is the angel on the cutter its self it really shows up.



Yup. In mid 90's when I bought these first ones before internet only place I knew of who sold ripping chain was direct from Granberg themselves.And they cost more than local guy charged.I prefer to buy local whenever I can,but he's quite expensive now,quoted me 35 cents a link for LP070G Full Chisel last December,he dont even stock loops anymore.

Got them at Baileys in April for 24" Skip & 36" Skip for $24 & $30 each with postage,respectively.Local guy was more than that 15 yrs ago!!  :bug: 

Gonna order another ripping chain next,my 2 oldest ones are about toast now.I have ripping chain in 24 & 36 lengths,plus full chisel & full chisel skip for crosscutting in same lengths.

Got a bit of extra money this week - I seen a 30"Oregon Power Match .050 gauge b/c combo for like $90+ postage,I may splurge & grab that too!  :coolgrin:


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## smokinj (May 26, 2011)

Thistle said:
			
		

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lol I bet they where pretty tough in the early 90's didnt think about that. Granberg chains are very over priced imho. You sure would be better off with the RS modd.
I have one rs full comp non skip 41. The 880 will plow through. Most say the 880 is very slow in the cross cut, but I would bet a big monster tree it would really shine with that rs on there.


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## Battenkiller (May 27, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> Most say the 880 is very slow in the cross cut, but I would bet a big monster tree it would really shine with that rs on there.



Never been near either, but the 660 appears to run about 1500 RPMs higher.  I think the cut speed in a 36" cut is somewhat limited by that if nothing else.  Of course, with a 6' bar you know what would get the call. :coolsmile:


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## smokinj (May 27, 2011)

Battenkiller said:
			
		

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Remember that the 660 with a 36 inch bar running a skip vs a 880 full comp 1500 rpm's is nothing, and the 880 not going to lose its rpm either. Now I am talking very large wood! 45+ even I am not sure here. I have never cross cut with it, but even in the milling get holds rpm's.


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## thewoodlands (May 27, 2011)

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## smokinj (May 27, 2011)

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## thewoodlands (May 27, 2011)

I stopped this morning at the Wood Chop Shop and he put in the order for the mill (G776-36) and the ez rail 9 ft. Mill Guide System with 3 crossbar kits, Model G1080.

Zap[/quote]

You just now getting the order in?[/quote]



The first Mill that came in was for a 20 inch bar or less and the ez rails came this week but are wrong also so he called everything in when I was there from info I pulled off the net.


The ez rails that came in might be missing a box because it was less then three feet long, this will give me time to get the first tree (it's topped off)dropped and setup. If it's not raining real hard tonight I'll get a picture with some measurements. 




Zap


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## smokinj (May 27, 2011)

zapny said:
			
		

> I stopped this morning at the Wood Chop Shop and he put in the order for the mill (G776-36) and the ez rail 9 ft. Mill Guide System with 3 crossbar kits, Model G1080.
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You just now getting the order in?[/quote]



The first Mill that came in was for a 20 inch bar or less and the ez rails came this week but are wrong also so he called everything in when I was there from info I pulled off the net.


The ez rails that came in might be missing a box because it was less then three feet long, this will give me time to get the first tree (it's topped off)dropped and setup. If it's not raining real hard tonight I'll get a picture with some measurements. 




Zap[/quote]



Welcome to the milling world.....Think it was about 6 weeks after placing the first order that I was able to make my first run.


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## Thistle (May 27, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> Welcome to the milling world.....Think it was about 6 weeks after placing the first order that I was able to make my first run.



There'll be no stopping him now....Every large tree you see on other's or your own property will have you thinking "Hmmm... I wonder how many board feet could I get from THAT trunk & how many cords or p/u loads of fuel from the remaining tops & branches?  ;-) "


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## smokinj (May 27, 2011)

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Hes going to have a cabin city in no time! GTG At ZAPS!


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## thewoodlands (May 27, 2011)

Thistle & Smokin; what wOOd a good thickness be for boards for an outside shed? This will be made from White Pine.





Zap


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## smokinj (May 27, 2011)

zapny said:
			
		

> Thistle & Smokin; what wOOd a good thickness be for boards for an outside shed? This will be made from White Pine.
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Siding 3/4-1 inch.


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## thewoodlands (May 27, 2011)

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So I can set the mill at 4/4 and give it a go. I'll have to get a list of tools I should have so when it all comes in I will be ready.





Zap


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## smokinj (May 27, 2011)

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Tape measure, level peavy, ss screws and cordless drill.


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## thewoodlands (May 27, 2011)

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 Good on all items but the ss screws, are they stainless steel screws and what do you use them for? Also do you use just a pencil for marking or something heavier?



Zap


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## smokinj (May 27, 2011)

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Yes stainless screws and its for anchoring your rails.


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## thewoodlands (May 27, 2011)

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## Battenkiller (May 27, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> GTG At ZAPS!



Yassss!  Finally be one near enough for me to go to.


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## thewoodlands (May 27, 2011)

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How about Tupper Lake this year, meet at the Lumberjack Inn for breakfast then take some events in at the Woodsmen's Day.





Zap


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## Battenkiller (May 27, 2011)

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[/quote]

Sounds great!  I plan on being there anyway.  My friend Mike Page will be there doing bear carving demos for Dolmar (his sponsor) and I planned to tag along anyway.  Lucky dog, he gets all his saws for free.


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## Battenkiller (May 27, 2011)

Oops. He's doing the one in Boonville in August.  OK, though, I'm still open for it.


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## thewoodlands (May 27, 2011)

Battenkiller said:
			
		

> Oops. He's doing the one in Boonville in August.  OK, though, I'm still open for it.






Last year we went to both, sounds good Battenkiller.





Tupper Bound

Zap


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## thewoodlands (May 27, 2011)

[hink it was about 6 weeks after placing the first order that I was able to make my first run.[/quote]




Smokin attached are three pictures of some white pine for milling, the first two pictures are the same tree at different times. The tree is 70 inches in circumference at 4.5 feet which should make the diameter 22.28 and looks to be about 24-30 feet tall.


Picture 2900 I'm not even sure the location.




Zap


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## smokinj (May 28, 2011)

zapny said:
			
		

> [hink it was about 6 weeks after placing the first order that I was able to make my first run.






Smokin attached are three pictures of some white pine for milling, the first two pictures are the same tree at different times. The tree is 70 inches in circumference at 4.5 feet which should make the diameter 22.28 and looks to be about 24-30 feet tall.


Picture 2900 I'm not even sure the location.




Zap[/quote]

What is your first prodject you want to do?


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## thewoodlands (May 28, 2011)

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What is your first prodject you want to do?[/quote]





Looking for some one inch boards for a shed or cabin.


zap


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## smokinj (May 28, 2011)

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Looking for some one inch boards for a shed or cabin.









zap[/quote]




Are you going to mill the beams poles and or studs?


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## thewoodlands (May 28, 2011)

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## smokinj (May 28, 2011)

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## thewoodlands (May 28, 2011)

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## smokinj (May 28, 2011)

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## thewoodlands (May 28, 2011)

Picture 2900 I'm not even sure the location.



Zap[/quote]


2x4 2x6 Same thing slab them out and stack them up. Get way ahead just like the firewood. Once you have a big pile build up start your project. Need a mini mill but you have lots of work to do before worrying to much about it. I would go old school to real 2x4 real 2x6 and so on[/quote]



I'll have the mini mill for end of June beginning of July. The first project will be something we can store the yard tractor plus ladders and a bunch of othe stuff.


Zap


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## smokinj (May 28, 2011)

zapny said:
			
		

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2x4 2x6 Same thing slab them out and stack them up. Get way ahead just like the firewood. Once you have a big pile build up start your project. Need a mini mill but you have lots of work to do before worrying to much about it. I would go old school to real 2x4 real 2x6 and so on[/quote]



I'll have the mini mill for end of June beginning of July. The first project will be something we can store the yard tractor plus ladders and a bunch of other stuff.


Zap[/quote]

I would build it like any other shed. Start with a wood floor. frame up on top of that siding and roof same material and some shingle's. Pole barn style works to. Either will need simple slabs/cants raw material but ready material. More the better before the mini mill even gets there. This would be like owning your own lumber yard! Sweeet...


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## thewoodlands (May 29, 2011)

Smokin/Thistle if I want to start making some stickers what can I buy (from the lumber yard) then cut down so that I'm ready on that end.



Zap


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## smokinj (May 29, 2011)

zapny said:
			
		

> Smokin/Thistle if I want to start making some stickers what can I buy (from the lumber yard) then cut down so that I'm ready on that end.
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Anything, 1 by 4 or 6 would be perfect. Cross cut at 1 inch.


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## Thistle (May 30, 2011)

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Yup. Buy the cheapest they got,#3 grade,furring strips or whatever you can get thats not all twisted or warped. Good luck with that,once they cut the metal bands on most lumber bundles,those suckers just go wild once the tension is released.


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## Intheswamp (May 30, 2011)

I believe there's a pdf version of Chainsaw Lumbermaking on the net, not sure about it's legality though, copyrights and all that stuff.

Ed


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## thewoodlands (Jun 28, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> You can learn something new everyday with this book! I was looking at the re-saw pages and thats when the real deal on the mini mill hit me. (this pic is very close to what you see in the book) Hes saw I believe is the 020.
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Smokin, I just called the Wood Chop Shop and they said the rails and the 36 inch mill came in yesterday afternoon so they will bring it from the canton store to the massena store which I'll be stopping by in the morning.



I just hope everything came in correct.




zap


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## smokinj (Jun 28, 2011)

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## thewoodlands (Jun 28, 2011)

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## smokinj (Jun 28, 2011)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RimvyXc8Bmg part  1 and 2[youtube]<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/RimvyXc8Bmg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>[/youtube]


Part 2 is link to that page!


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## thewoodlands (Jun 28, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RimvyXc8Bmg part  1 and 2[youtube]<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/RimvyXc8Bmg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>[/youtube]
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Smokin thanks, did you use any commercial strength locktite when putting this together.



zap


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## smokinj (Jun 28, 2011)

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Not needed imo there all nylon coated never lost one and I idle tat 880 a lot! :cheese:


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## smokinj (Jun 28, 2011)

[youtube]http://youtu.be/pOJx-7A10zQ[/youtube]


 :cheese:


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## thewoodlands (Jun 29, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> [youtube]http://youtu.be/pOJx-7A10zQ[/youtube]
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Is that you or mmaul on the saw?



zap


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## smokinj (Jun 29, 2011)

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Thats me.


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## thewoodlands (Jun 29, 2011)

Smokin or Thistle, how often do you mill over nine feet in one run.




zap


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## smokinj (Jun 29, 2011)

zapny said:
			
		

> Smokin or Thistle, how often do you mill over nine feet in one run.
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As often as I can! Just move your guide down the log about 3/4 of the way....Easy Peazy!


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## thewoodlands (Jun 29, 2011)

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I never did ask when ordering the ez rails (9ft) do they come in three foot sections?



zap


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## smokinj (Jun 29, 2011)

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They should....I dont run into 10 footer that offen. It is very easy to just slide it down the log, heck I leave my 880 on the rail. I had a 12 foot set-up and hated it, so I drop it to an 8footer.


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## thewoodlands (Jun 29, 2011)

Smokin, do you just rub the Bees Wax on the ends right out of the can?



Zap


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## smokinj (Jun 29, 2011)

zapny said:
			
		

> Smokin, do you just rub the Bees Wax on the ends right out of the can?
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I just paint the cheaper woods. Black walnut I use the bee-wax on the top and bottom and paraffin wax on the ends. 
So your framing wood or softwood just paint the ends, hardwoods you may want to go the extra mile for.

I have a good recipe for making an awesome bee-wax blend that works very well and much cheaper!


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## thewoodlands (Jun 29, 2011)

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So on the pine I can leave the top and bottom alone then paint the ends(what type of paint?)


zap


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## smokinj (Jun 29, 2011)

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Use up what you have around the house first Anything....Yes leave the top and botton alone on the pine.


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## thewoodlands (Jun 29, 2011)

Smokin, looks like everything came in from what I can see, I might start putting it together tonight.


The ez rails (wet) are in the first picture (they had put them outside because I was coming and it started pouring just before I got there) then the second picture is the mill.




zap


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## smokinj (Jun 29, 2011)

zapny said:
			
		

> Smokin, looks like everything came in from what I can see, I might start putting it together tonight.
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Yep yep...Grap a 1/2 wrench and lap-top set at kitchen table about 30 min's your done...Pretty cool video....


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## thewoodlands (Jun 29, 2011)

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Smokin the white plastic piece is not in the package, how important is it.


zap


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## smokinj (Jun 29, 2011)

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LOL Funny stuff there I went through the same thing even called them out on it......Turns out its just comes on the SMALL MILL ONLY!! I email back and fourth as well, but it is not a part of your mill. Glad you caught that to! :lol: You are very educated on the mills for sure!


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## thewoodlands (Jun 29, 2011)

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## smokinj (Jun 29, 2011)

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## thewoodlands (Jun 29, 2011)

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## smokinj (Jun 29, 2011)

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## smokinj (Jun 29, 2011)

Yes :cheese:


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## smokinj (Jun 30, 2011)

Bump......Pic's or it didnt happen! :coolhmm:


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## thewoodlands (Jun 30, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> Yes :cheese:






Smokin, how far down did you tighten down the handle from the guide end?




zap


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## smokinj (Jun 30, 2011)

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Just snug it up until you know what works for you....Mine is about a foot to the left. Could be different once you get going but always keep a 1/2 inch with you for adjustments. :cheese:


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## thewoodlands (Jun 30, 2011)

Smokin, if you notice something wrong just post it. Looking at the rails tomorrow night.




zap


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## thewoodlands (Jun 30, 2011)

Smokin/Thistle, I see on Granbergs site they say you can lose between 2-4 inches on how wide you can cut, how much do you lose or will I lose with the 36 inch bar.


zap


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## Thistle (Jun 30, 2011)

zapny said:
			
		

> Smokin/Thistle, I see on Granbergs site they say you can lose between 2-4 inches on how wide you can cut, how much do you lose or will I lose with the 36 inch bar.
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With the 36" Bar I can mill logs up to 32".


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## Thistle (Jun 30, 2011)

zapny said:
			
		

> Smokin/Thistle, I see on Granbergs site they say you can lose between 2-4 inches on how wide you can cut, how much do you lose or will I lose with the 36 inch bar.
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With the 36" Bar I can mill logs up to 32".


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## thewoodlands (Jun 30, 2011)

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Thistle thanks, are you running the auxiliary oiler on your 36 inch bar?


zap


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## smokinj (Jun 30, 2011)

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In that ball park wish the logs where that good...lol 41 inch bar I have had trouble with a 32 inch before...No big deal teach you how to get around it when the time comes...
Looks like your way wide right on the handle but you can adjust later.... :cheese:


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## Thistle (Jun 30, 2011)

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  Nope.I dont get many logs over 24-26 anymore,but will get one eventually.I called last winter what the 44" double ended bar,helper handle with roller bearing & aux oiler would run - was around $485 with shipping if memory serves.Gonna have to wait a while longer.What I have works great for now.


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## thewoodlands (Jun 30, 2011)

zap[/quote]  Nope.I dont get many logs over 24-26 anymore,but will get one eventually.I called last winter what the 44" double ended bar,helper handle with roller bearing & aux oiler would run - was around $485 with shipping if memory serves.Gonna have to wait a while longer.What I have works great for now.[/quote]



I think for $54.00 dollars you can get the aux. oiler and attach it plus drill two holes and your off and running. I might get the mini mill plus the aux. oiler only because we have some big pine.



zap


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## smokinj (Jun 30, 2011)

zapny said:
			
		

> zap


  Nope.I dont get many logs over 24-26 anymore,but will get one eventually.I called last winter what the 44" double ended bar,helper handle with roller bearing & aux oiler would run - was around $485 with shipping if memory serves.Gonna have to wait a while longer.What I have works great for now.[/quote]



I think for $54.00 dollars you can get the aux. oiler and attach it plus drill two holes and your off and running. I might get the mini mill plus the aux. oiler only because we have some big pine.



zap[/quote]

Oh zap I can walk you through that for less than 10.00 buck if its not already laying around....NO WHOLE DRILLING!


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## thewoodlands (Jun 30, 2011)

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I think for $54.00 dollars you can get the aux. oiler and attach it plus drill two holes and your off and running. I might get the mini mill plus the aux. oiler only because we have some big pine.



zap[/quote]

Oh zap I can walk you through that for less than 10.00 buck if its not already laying around....NO WHOLE DRILLING![/quote]


Just found this you old dog.

I used a wire tie and just let it drip on to the bar it finds its way to the chain with no CLOGGING! 



zap


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## thewoodlands (Jun 30, 2011)

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I think for $54.00 dollars you can get the aux. oiler and attach it plus drill two holes and your off and running. I might get the mini mill plus the aux. oiler only because we have some big pine.



zap[/quote]

Oh zap I can walk you through that for less than 10.00 buck if its not already laying around....NO WHOLE DRILLING![/quote]




Picture or it didn't happen.



zap


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## smokinj (Jun 30, 2011)

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Oh zap I can walk you through that for less than 10.00 buck if its not already laying around....NO WHOLE DRILLING![/quote]




Picture or it didn't happen.



zap[/quote]

You can clearly see the hose and zip tie...This keeps you from drilling or clogging!


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## Thistle (Jun 30, 2011)

I wont drill any holes in my bars,not even older ones.Zip ties is a great idea.


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## smokinj (Jun 30, 2011)

Thistle said:
			
		

> I wont drill any holes in my bars,not even older ones.Zip ties is a great idea.



I almost drilled and came to my senses thats alot of money and reviews say they clogs up anyway..... :cheese: That oil finds it way to the chain it has nowhere else to go.

Any bottle and tube with an adjuster and couple zip ties and your done.


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## thewoodlands (Jun 30, 2011)

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Thanks Smokin/Thistle, the aux. oiler and the mini mill is on it's way.  :zip: 



zap


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## smokinj (Jun 30, 2011)

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LOVE IT! (Just dont drill)  :lol:


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## smokinj (Jun 30, 2011)

What chain is your 310 running?


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## thewoodlands (Jun 30, 2011)

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I won't drill, just debating if it would be worth getting another 5 or 9 foot section of ez rails for some longer cuts.



zap


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## smokinj (Jun 30, 2011)

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I really dont think so, I ran a 12 footer just to hard to handle at that length....8 foot for me is perfect slides easy for one person and its only for one cut. Take your time with the first cut then everything goes pretty smooth and fast. Most tree you will need to make slight adjustments on to and 12 is a lot harder.


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## thewoodlands (Jun 30, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> What chain is your 310 running?





Who's running the 310?


zap


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## smokinj (Jun 30, 2011)

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Mini mill set-up. Small kerf chain and bar that 310 could be a strong one to have in the mix.


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## thewoodlands (Jun 30, 2011)

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I take it you don't use a ripping chain when using the mini mill.



Zap


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## smokinj (Jun 30, 2011)

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I just cut my own, my little 192t does a good job and loses very little kerf. Bet a 310 with an .043 set-up would kick @ass! Even a .325 would work as well....


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## thewoodlands (Jun 30, 2011)

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I'm almost sure it's the .325.


zap


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## smokinj (Jun 30, 2011)

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That will work out well!  :cheese: Time for the 310 to earn its keep!


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## thewoodlands (Jun 30, 2011)

double post deleted.


zap


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## thewoodlands (Jul 2, 2011)

smokin/thistle, on the carlton A1 3/8 0.050 is that a 10 percent angle?





zap


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## Thistle (Jul 2, 2011)

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Dont know about Carlton. My ripping chains are Oregon 75JGX 0.63 gauge skip.Ground to 10 or 15 degrees. I imagine the specs would be the same though.


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## thewoodlands (Jul 2, 2011)

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I think if I'm reading the chart (just found it) it's 10 percent.


http://www.sawchain.com/images/2008-2009 Intl Catalog/SawChainTypes.pdf



zap


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## thewoodlands (Jul 5, 2011)

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Question on the ez rails, I'm using the nine footers so should I leave overhang at both ends or just one end when milling. This will determine the length of the log.


zap


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## smokinj (Jul 5, 2011)

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both when you can makes it easier to start and take off.


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## smokinj (Jul 5, 2011)

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10 degrees is where you want to cut the chaINS. If your modd. one let me know?


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## thewoodlands (Jul 11, 2011)

With logs like that you should not have to by any lumber........I would start stock piling 4 and 6 inch thick slabs. Now you can still make siding out of it later, but you get a couple 1000bf of cants stock up you would then be ready to launch any project you could dream up.[/quote]


First question, when stickering wood is wind or sun more important.....Second question, if we sticker the cants and paint the ends then mill them up in the spring how much longer will it take to dry?

gibir


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## smokinj (Jul 11, 2011)

zapny said:
			
		

> With logs like that you should not have to by any lumber........I would start stock piling 4 and 6 inch thick slabs. Now you can still make siding out of it later, but you get a couple 1000bf of cants stock up you would then be ready to launch any project you could dream up.




First question, when stickering wood is wind or sun more important.....Second question, if we sticker the cants and paint the ends then mill them up in the spring how much longer will it take to dry?

gibir[/quote]

Softwoods can be used right out of the box. I would sticker them and ractet strap as a nice bundle. Cants I would sticker .(Nice and tight) Once you get it down to lumbar I wouldnt sticker at all just a nice tight bundles. Was typing early on the phone lol hope thats better! :cheese:


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## smokinj (Jul 28, 2011)

WHO WAS WANTING A COPY? Think I can compress it now have a new computer. :cheese:


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