# New to me Lawn Tractor - Blades unbalanced?



## daveswoodhauler (Apr 22, 2011)

Well, after providing some wood (1/3 cord or so) to my neighbor last year as a good gesture, he bought a new garden tractor and gave me his old one. 
It looks to be in very good condition, its a Ariens 15hp YT1540H. with a 3 bag attachment on the rear.
Basically, he said that it needed a new battery and drive belt, which he is going to help me install. (Picked up a belt and battery for around, $50 so not a bad deal so far)
Only other item he said was it might need new blades, as he got some vibration (loud) when running it, and said sometimes the blades get out of balance?
So, took the blades off and brought down to the Ariens place....they checked the blades and indicated that they seemed pretty good, one was a little off, but shouldn't make a difference...should get at least 2-3 years more out of them.
So, if the blades are ok, I'm thinking that perhaps the bearing and spindle might be shot on the deck, and need replacing?
I'll put the blades back on and check to see if there is any play from side to side.....if no play, would you say it is indeed time to replace the blades?
Just was looking for some feedback on what I might check forst, as this is a big stup up for me with my 3/4 acre lawn and Honda 21" push mower lol
(Was going to post this in another forum, but I figured a large percentage of folks here have garden tractors, and just felt a little more comfortable with the good folks here)


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## woodsman23 (Apr 22, 2011)

sounds like a bent spindle bolt/pin whatever comes with that mower. I take it apart and check em and i'd put on new blades and start fresh as they are cheap to replace. Check this place out for parts  www.agrisupply.com


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## burntime (Apr 22, 2011)

Yep, bent spindle or bad bearing is what it sounds like to me.


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## PJF1313 (Apr 22, 2011)

Dave - 

  I don't have an Ariens, but maybe I can be of some help....

 Are one of the blades bent?  Compare one to the other(s) and see if there is any difference.  While you have the deck off, clean the underside from old, packed-on clippings, and see if the spindles are easy to turn; without the belt on and the blade brake on(?) Bad spot on the belt? (a chunk broken off/missing; glazed)

 IF I was in your shoes, I would replace the blades and belt -  just to eliminate the "cheaper" and easier problems; and while you have it off the tractor.  The next would be, as "Woodsman23" said, the spindles.  They are more "difficult" (not impossible, and deferentially DO NOT NEED a Fire-Wrench) to change; they are also more expensive [Sears/Craftsman wants $125 ea. X2 for theirs] 

  Please keep us updated on your "new" toy(tool ;-)  )


P.J.


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## Highbeam (Apr 22, 2011)

With the drive belt off you should be able to easily diagnose a bad bearing or spindle. I replaced and idler bearing on my old JD mower deck and it went from a rumbling loud deck to a nice smooth runner. Amazing how much racket a bad bearing can make. JD parts are cheap.

I wouldn't replace a blade "just cuz". If they checked out at the dealer and when laid on top of each other they are both the same shape then it is obviously not your problem.


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## daveswoodhauler (Apr 23, 2011)

Thanks Guys!
I got the belt off, and there is a little chunk missing from it.
I'll put the blades back on without the belt attached and see if there is any play in it...was able to pull up a schematic, so if its a bearing/spindle, I guess I can tackle that.
Not knowing anythng about tractors, one thing I noticed is that the engine seems to move a bit side to side when I shut the mower off. (Might be because the main belt that connects the power to the blades it off, so perhaps when the belt is back on the engine wont wiggle as much)
Seems like there are a couple bolts that hold the engine in place, so maybe its meant to move from side to a side a small amount?
Looking forward to tinker with my new to me toy!


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## PJF1313 (Apr 23, 2011)

Yep - that little chuck 'll make it shake like no tomorrow!

 You got it down and apart, might as well change the belt while your there.  Even if it costs 20 bucks, it'll save you atleat a deck, and at most an engine, in the long run. 

Keep us apprised of your goings!


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## Highbeam (Apr 23, 2011)

My last two riders had engines that were rigidly bolted to the steel frame. No engine movement. Check for missing engine mount bolts. That could explain rumbling and a munched belt to.


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## bogydave (Apr 23, 2011)

The belt only breaks when you are using it. 
I always buy 2, one on the garage shelf. I hate to be 1/2 way done & head to the store (if they're open to get a new belt).

Here's a good forum site if you have questions.
http://www.mytractorforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=30

Helps to draw a line on top of the deck, with a marker,  before it breaks or  you take the belt off, 
Then you know how to put the new one on with out the book diagram & head scratching  

With the belt off, spin the blades, listen for grinding noise * bearing is going bad if you hear noise.
watch the tips for wobble, bent shaft i it wobbles..
lay a piece of wood to where the end of the blade touches it, spin it & make sure the other tip touches the  same spot. no * bent blade.
All easy & cheap fixes now, before the whole spindle goes out.
Bearings usually standard size at any auto  parts store. If you hose the under size, figure 2 years on the bearings.


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## daveswoodhauler (Apr 23, 2011)

Good stuff and help guys, thank you very much.
Neighbor has a garage and a jack, so he said when I get the new belt on to come over and we can put it on.
Picked up a new battery yesterday, and put it on and it starts right up.
Was so excited I was looking it over with a flashlight in the dark last night, lol.
Just joined the tractor forum to, so thanks for the link.
Good neighbor is going to show me how to take off the deck as well, as if it is the bearings/spindle it might be worth it just bringing the deck down to the repair and having them go over everything. (Bring my snow blower there (ariens too) and they are good and just replace what needs done vs replacing everything)
Thanks again, wanted to work on it this morning by its freaking snowing out.


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## daveswoodhauler (Apr 23, 2011)

Highbeam said:
			
		

> My last two riders had engines that were rigidly bolted to the steel frame. No engine movement. Check for missing engine mount bolts. That could explain rumbling and a munched belt to.



Highbeam, I think you hit the mail on the head. Snowing out here right now, but I had to go outside and check out the new toy.
Wedged my hand up underneath the engine on the driver side, and I can feel one maybe 2 holes underneath the engine where I think the hex bolts have either loosed and fell out or snapped off. Can't wait to get in my neighbors garage with the floor jack and jack this baby up. I am guessing that if there are in fact 2 bolts missing holding the engine down on the left side that that is causing the wobble/belt issues...hopes its not too bad a fix....pain in the arse trying to get your hands under there.


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## fbelec (Apr 24, 2011)

hey bogydave i might be a little dense at the moment, but what did you mean when you said 

"If you hose the under size, figure 2 years on the bearings."


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## heat seeker (Apr 24, 2011)

For sure, the engine should not be moving around! Bolts are missing/loose/broken. A chunk missing from the belt will give you noise and vibration, as already stated. You are well on your way to a good-running machine. Good move joining the tractor forum, great bunch of folks there, too. This forum and that one are the two I like best. Great bunch of folks on both of them!


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## daveswoodhauler (Apr 25, 2011)

Well, picked up some new bolts from the dealer and the threads in the motor must be shot/stripped. One Bolt just went right it with no turning needed....thought I was going to get lucky on the other hole, but when I barely tightened it, the bolt just kept on turning and turning....so that one is stripped as well 
Any alternatives other than removing the engine and rethreading which I have not done before?


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## heat seeker (Apr 25, 2011)

If you have room, put nuts on the bolts. If not, you can rethread them, it's not all that hard. Heli-coils work well, and are steel threads. You won't strip those out easily. 
You could try the next size larger bolt, which would mean drilling out and tapping the existing hole - if you can get at them from below.


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## daveswoodhauler (Apr 25, 2011)

heat seeker said:
			
		

> If you have room, put nuts on the bolts. If not, you can rethread them, it's not all that hard. Heli-coils work well, and are steel threads. You won't strip those out easily.
> You could try the next size larger bolt, which would mean drilling out and tapping the existing hole - if you can get at them from below.



Thanks Heat Seeker. The holes for the bolts are blind...basically each bolt goes underneath and then screws through the frame and into the block of the engine....no opening on the top, so I can't use a nut on the end 
I'll have to research on redrilling and tapping the hole for another bolt...never have done this before, so I don't want to screw anything up.


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## Highbeam (Apr 25, 2011)

Drilling and tapping is serious business, there are ways that a DIY guy could screw it up. I would pull that engine out to do it right. The thing is already pretty much leaping out of there. It's not like a car engine, these engines are like a bolt on accessory, easy to remove. Then on a bench you can attempt the thread repair. Might consider helicoiling all of the bolt holes since the two remaining bolts have been being abused for awhile now.

A machine shop could do the work cheaply once you remove the engine and bring it to them.


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## daveswoodhauler (Apr 25, 2011)

Highbeam said:
			
		

> Drilling and tapping is serious business, there are ways that a DIY guy could screw it up. I would pull that engine out to do it right. The thing is already pretty much leaping out of there. It's not like a car engine, these engines are like a bolt on accessory, easy to remove. Then on a bench you can attempt the thread repair. Might consider helicoiling all of the bolt holes since the two remaining bolts have been being abused for awhile now.
> 
> A machine shop could do the work cheaply once you remove the engine and bring it to them.



More thanks! I was thinking of pulling the engine, but not having done it before I am starting to wonder if I might be biting off more than I can chew. I think the 2 holes that do have bolts in them are pretty well abuse, as even when I get those tightened up all the way the engine will move as soon as I start it up.
Almost wondering if I should just put it up for sale on Craigslist, and contunue using my push mower.
Lots to ponder I guess.


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