# E-Classic 2300 -working out the bugs



## No Smoke (Jan 18, 2009)

We have been burning since late Oct. and have used over 20 cord. Heating large building but not as large as some are heating with less wood use...  Have replaced seal on door and have concerns about creosote building up on the damper. Has anyone removed pipes in the bottom of firebox for better air?  Has anyone removed firebrick?  How much of it?  We are having problems getting water temps in the boiler up to 180/5.  Using oil boiler to help it keep up.  Something seems off- Also....on state of Maine woodstove and woodsmoke website I see they state that the E-Classic is rated at 160,000BTU's over an 8hr period whereas the Central Boiler website states the unit replaces 800 gallons of heating oil per month and has a heating capacity similar to the CL6048 - when looking at the CL6048 it states that it is rated at a max of 500,000BTU.  Any thoughts on this?
Would appreciate any suggestions for improving my E-Classics performance!


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## ken999 (Jan 18, 2009)

Wow...20 chords?? How big is the building you are trying to heat? When I get mine this week the dealer told me to remove the firebrick from the sides of the firebox. CB is no longer using them on any new 2300's as they were restricting the heat transfer into the water jacket. Call your dealer and verify this, but it's what I've been told to do with mine.

160k sounds like the EPA's rating of the unit. Did the Maine website  do there own testing or are they working off the EPA's rating?

I've already called the factory and talked to the tech's a couple of time's about how to approach the install. They have been very helpful. You might want to give them a call as they likely can give you a hand with your boiler.

Good luck and keep us posted.


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## flyingcow (Jan 18, 2009)

my neighbor has a e-classic. Mid sized house. It works well for him. I also know a guy that has a 6048. Big, poorly insulated house burning 30++ big hardwood sticks a day. It's a huge beast compared to the e-classic. They're very different stoves. Both will run at 185 easily. Not much help.


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## No Smoke (Jan 18, 2009)

Actually we started out with 55 cord and it is over half gone as of today...it was 20 cord a month ago.....the E-Classic is just eating our wood without giving us enough heat to get the water temps up- can take hours to gain 10 degrees- it just doesnt heat- our dealer is saying the same thing- he is in touch with the company and they are sending 'parts'...... we turned it off today to go back to our oil burner....the wood costs money too.....and we are not gaining anything from burning it.....


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## ken999 (Jan 18, 2009)

Where are you at John?


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## ezoffshore (Jan 20, 2009)

20 cords??????????? holy crap. I am heating 1800 square foot house and 1500 square foot barn and have used roughly 5-6 cords since October. House temperature set at 75 and barn at 50. No problem keeping 180 deg water in in when in was -10 deg.


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## stee6043 (Jan 20, 2009)

I have to believe you have a plumbing issue?  Or heat exchanger issue?  People around here could heat for four years with what you've burned in half a season.  Wow.  Give us more details on your setup...


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## No Smoke (Jan 20, 2009)

We were out of town yesterday with work but found that the dealer had been there and replaced some parts- we watched it last night and it was not going through the wood like previously- and the temp was up to where it should have been.....we had been having a hard time getting it up to 140- so this was a pleasant suprise.....If this keeps up we will be happy!!  Expect to hear from the dealer today and will tell you what he replaced-


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## ken999 (Jan 20, 2009)

I'll be interested to hear.

Could we get some more specifics on your install?

How much ThermoPEX did you bury? Is the ground wet? Did you underdrain the Thermopex? What size line did you run? Do you have baseboard heat or forced air in the building you are trying to heat? Your burning dry wood I assume.

Did you notice if the dealer removed any firebrick from the sides of your boiler?


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## No Smoke (Jan 22, 2009)

125 foot run and buried 110 feet in sandy soil 2 foot down- dry ground-seems to be holding the heat- as far as we can tell maybe losing a couple degrees - no snow melt or problems there- it is 1 inch pex

Cast iron registers- 50 plate heat exchanger inside oil boiler- about oil boiler rated at 250,000BTU - only 2 circulating pumps inside building to the registers.

Burning dry wood- beech, hardmaple- stored under a roof

1 pump on outdoor furnace and 1 pump from heat exchanger to oil boiler-

Dealer removed all firebrick from the sides of the furnace but left the bottom bricks along with the bottom grates/pipes (ours has 3)

Dealer put on a bigger squirrel cage on the blower and he cleaned the chimney door which was not closing properly - said he spent 45 min. inside the stove to do this- the handle was too short to close the door so we have unhooked it and are waiting on parts.

Last night was minus 20 filled at 8:30 pm-full and at 7am it was gone and temp was 138 degrees- oil was on inside- smoked more today---temps came up okay today but not as fast as the other day-

Waiting for parts- not using chimney door at all for fear of creosote building up and holding it open again-

Will keep you posted!!


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## eco-one (Jan 23, 2009)

well john hows the stove woking now after all the new goodies?


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## adenowski (Jan 30, 2009)

Wow..

I have been looking at Central Boiler's products, because I'm replacing (this spring) a home designed OWB that came with the house and is for s*%#..

The house (built in the 60's with out remodeling) is over a 1500 sq ft ranch style with huge windows.  I'm looking to supply heat to the full basement and 20'x30' attached guarage (which isn't getting any heat supply at all). Currently burn about $4000 worth of LP for the heating season.

I was either going to get the 5036, as my brother-in-law has one and likes it but only heats a 1000 sq ft house, or get the e-classic 2300.  I thought the 2300 was more efficiant, with less smoke.

But if it's a wood hog, I'm not too sure I would like to spend the extra cash for the 2300.

People on this forum are talking about a "cord" of wood they are using. Is this a "FULL CORD"  or "FACE CORD" 

20 cord is a lot of wood if its a full cord, and the heating seasone isn't over.

Feed back would be great, as I don't have that much land to cut wood from, about 20 acres of mine and lots of county land I can go to.  But making 20 full cord of wood in one year is a lot of work and time.  Sure would love to have some summer/fall time to drink a little beer with friends and family.

Thanks,

Anthony D


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## WILDSOURDOUGH (Jan 30, 2009)

Wife and I love our 5036. This is our 3rd year with it. 
First year, we were living in basement with un-insulated ranch above- burned many-many tons of wood. (radient in basement slab) could barely keep basement 55. 
Now with ICF foundation and SIP ranch (2320 SqFt on each level) finished- hardly use any wood, will not be eight cord this winter. It is HOT in the basement...floor is cooking!  Main floor stays at 68-70, day and night without any source (have no heating source on the main floor- only radient from the basement slab). Must be working, as my 91 y/o mother-in law is walking around in just her night-gown.

Someone asked about the wood... I just cut up two tri-axle loads this summer (got them last January), this is a 2 years supply- but I am going to get one load next month...just to keep ahead. We just throw the 3-5 'huge' chunks in,  1-2 times a day... 5:30am, 5pm. 

Themo says it's 14 outside, basement floor is 101, air temp in basement is 74.8, main floor is 70.4


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## No Smoke (Jan 30, 2009)

Our E-Classic is working much better and the water temps are staying up!  the new parts seem to have helped so much- we have had some minus 20 degree temps and lots of snow.  Our dealer is still watching things and has temp gauges all over the place- a new part keeps the flew/damper closed tight- before it could ride up and leave a gap for air loss- the bigger blower seems to help too-along with the re-piping in the cellar with the inside water storage and heat exchanger- and the firebrick on the sides is now out- the door seal was replaced- still a little smoke leaks out.... 
Bugs are being worked out of our unit and so far it is much better!


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## larry4406 (Jan 30, 2009)

I am interested in the E-Classic 2300.  I have been surfing this site and another site for quite some time http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?board=50.0  This other site seems to have a lot of E-2300 users.  Apparently this unit is having teething pains.  In particular, the threads on the other site dicuss:

 - the fire bricks have been falling off (apparently new units are being shipped without)
 - failure of bricks (cracking and loosening) in the reaction chamber
 - Cracking of welds on the draft door

Is this unit really that bad?


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## heaterman (Jan 31, 2009)

larry4406 said:
			
		

> I am interested in the E-Classic 2300.  I have been surfing this site and another site for quite some time http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?board=50.0  This other site seems to have a lot of E-2300 users.  Apparently this unit is having teething pains.  In particular, the threads on the other site dicuss:
> 
> - the fire bricks have been falling off (apparently new units are being shipped without)
> - failure of bricks (cracking and loosening) in the reaction chamber
> ...



I have a gut feeling that many folks will see these types of problems with a lot of brands that are trying to make EPA compliant units. I see some design carry over from the OWB companies in the products they are bringing out and in a lot of areas they will not work real well. The firebrick on the E-Classic being a good example. The unit needs the fire brick to maintain high heat in the fire box but the design sorta dictates that it won't last. Removing the firebrick will probably bring new meaning to the term "unintended consequences".  The basic Euro gasification design like Econoburn, Tarm and Eko, while it's not perfect, does work well and has been proven to be relatively trouble free. Those units will likely stay in one piece pretty well.


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## Johnbull (Feb 2, 2009)

Has anyone give thought to the possible consequences, good or bad, if one were to try using a large cast iron grate w/legs upon which to place the wood load thus giving a "opening" under the load as the exhaust gases travel to the "combustion chamber" on the E-Classic?

It appears to me that the more airflow around the stack perhaps the better the burn. I saw this in part because the back of the wood stack does not seem to burn as efficiently or thoroughly as the front and sides.

Craig Ormsby


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## logjammed (Feb 2, 2009)

hi Johnbull , as long as the existing grates stay clear you would not need anything else. I have noticed sometimes on a refill hot coals will  compact and plug up, so i have got in the habit of poking down through after filling. no problem


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## AOTO (Feb 11, 2009)

I have a Sequoyah and I was just wondering the same thing. The bottom holes on this unit also gets plugged up. I think there are 4 or 5 openings for the air to go down.  Usually the unit will get up to heat (181F) pretty fast and when it doesn't, I move the ashes and embers away from the center. That usuall does the trick. I was debating on trying to use a grate of some sort to bring the embers and wood up a little bit too.   Funny, I was just thinking that last night and here it was being discussed.  I too have burnt way too much wood this year...probably 8 cords since 12/06.  They love wood.   
Does anybody know what the display on a E2300 Classic means when it beeps and says AL1 ?


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## Johnbull (Feb 12, 2009)

About a week ago after a monthly cleaning I decided to experiment by taking my large cast iron fire grate from our indoor fireplace and set it inside the E=Classic. This heightened the wood load about 3” above the opening to the combustion chamber and placed the actual burn zone parallel to the air openings.  It would appear at least so far that I am getting a more thorough burn all the way around the wood stack and using less wood. Likewise, the creosote build up doesn’t appear as bad. Very little ash on the floor of the firebox. Initially appears to be a more efficient burn and no plugging of the opening to the combustion chamber. No problem with the fire going out either in this configuration.

Anyone else out there willing to experiment a little with this? We are in a relative warm spell right now so I’m only able to guess at the usage issue. Would be interested in any additional comments or attempts by others to use a grate.

One other question; is CB going to notify existing users about the removal of firebrick? Is it OK to remove the brick on recently purchased units and are any other modifications needed. I don’t want to do any damage. I do know that CB made a repair kit for the bracket which holds the rod on the bypass door. I received that via my local CB dealer who installed my units.

Craig Ormsby
Martinsburg PA


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## No Smoke (Feb 16, 2009)

STILL FRUSTRATED WITH THE DARN THING
Circulating pump doesnt seem to work right- dealer said he was checking it but have not heard back from them-on install the worker installing frowned at it....think he saw something wrong....he doesnt work there anymore....dealer moved pump from inside to the outside furnace and it appears to be a problem...the door seal was changed and door readjusted but still leaks...... unit requires so much babysitting- and our electric bill is double last years- yes, rates went up but jeesh- 130 or more a month and no one lives in this building- we do keep a new energy star fridge going and turn lights on inside when we are there a few days a week.......Im blaming the stove- water is heated with gas- so have no idea what is drawing so much elec.
could it be the fans? the pumps? 
To be fair it did seem to be working way better than when I started this topic..... and we were afraid it was too good to be true.....then today happened....we are back on the oil burner.... seems like every time we do a cleaning we wait for it to go all to hell....and it does more often than not!  Tonight our E-Classic is for sale......will see what the dealer says in the morning.....


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## kuribo (Feb 16, 2009)

You have to wonder how much research and testing they did on these before they took them to market. Telling owners to remove the firebrick from the sides of the firebox seems like something they should have figured out earlier rather than later. Seems like they rushed these to market to cash in on the rise in oil prices and the "gasification" buzz word without thorough testing...


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## heaterman (Feb 16, 2009)

kuribo said:
			
		

> You have to wonder how much research and testing they did on these before they took them to market. Telling owners to remove the firebrick from the sides of the firebox seems like something they should have figured out earlier rather than later. Seems like they rushed these to market to cash in on the rise in oil prices and the "gasification" buzz word without through testing...




BINGO!


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## No Smoke (Feb 27, 2009)

Now we have worked through some of the problems - and it has made for a long winter ......someone just said that there is a $2,000- rebate if your now buying a new E-Classic ??!?!?!........maybe we newbies sort of got it stuck to us!??!?!?!?!  Anyone else hear this????


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## heaterman (Feb 27, 2009)

cjcamp said:
			
		

> Now we have worked through some of the problems - and it has made for a long winter ......someone just said that there is a $2,000- rebate if your now buying a new E-Classic ??!?!?!........maybe we newbies sort of got it stuck to us!??!?!?!?!  Anyone else hear this????



I heard through the grapevine that CB had tons of inventory left over and they are trying to move them out.


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## kenkressin (Feb 27, 2009)

After 3 months, my side firebrick was buldging out.  I removed the four worst ones, and the more intense heat melted a 1/2 inch wall of creosote away.  I was then able to scrape it clean and fully insert the brick back in.  Thus, I think the creosote coming down the wall sides is working its way behind the brick. I plan to try keeping the brick in for the time being.  I have been fairly satisfied with the 2300 so far, but there are many design changes which really should have been made first.  I agree that this unit looks rushed to market and I bought a CB because I was expecting better.  I did pay top dollar and I am a bit disappointed.   

Here is a list of design issues I encountered:
1) Box fire brick buldging
2) Heavy firebox creosote seems part of the design, although it burns clean
3) Leak in flange above pump wrecks pump (water drips right into pump electronics).
4) Insulation in back of unit is user installed, yet critical to be done right to prevent freezing or over-insulating pump motor
5) Areas (crevases) in firebox difficult to clean
6) No included alarm system to detect power failure, pump failure, or low fire which could result in poor operating or frozen system
7) Damper door difficult to open
8) Light above door gets smoke covered quickly
9) Need to stir bottom coals and ashes to prevent air holes from plugging
10) Damper only slightly prevents fire from rolling out the front door
11) Reactor chamber bricks came loose.
12) Reaction chamber door and cover design is awkward (removing cover, where to put while cleaning, etc)
13) Color of unit helps it look rather ugly as it gets "dirty"
14) Better insulated thermopex with real specification on how much energy is lost
15) Better integration with existing boilers - mine has been poor,  Pumps need to be matched, prevent boiler from firing, etc.
16) Better sealing adjustment system on door.
17) Less power consumption of fan - mine runs on "low" always, but the design simply partially "plugs" the fan opening which I bet is not the best design.


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## antos_ketcham (Feb 28, 2009)

Sorry to hear folks are having issues. Mine has been working fine and I am pretty happy so far - knock on wood. I took my fire bricks out and I took out the middle grate as CB recommended. All running well. I think my biggest challenge is not getting fumigated when I load it. I had this problem with my Greenwood as well. Despite my concerns, I think for next winter I am going to increase my chimney to 4 or 5 sections. I have 3 now. With the increased draft it may reduce the fumigation factor. For now I am wearing a respirator when loading. Anyone else have any lung saving recommendations with their units? 

Good luck everyone. 

Pete


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## logjammed (Feb 28, 2009)

Pete, I try to load when under burn and let bypass run open a little bit before opening door. I assume you have done that also and that your loading sometimes when full of wood and blower off. that's the worst and i try to avoid those times. then it's an extra trip outside.  I am also happy with the unit at this time and just thinking about how long i am going to burn for DHW. also what mods to make his off season. has anybody got extra storage tied into unpressurized boiler loop???


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## ecrane99 (Mar 2, 2009)

Pete Antos-Ketcham said:
			
		

> Sorry to hear folks are having issues. Mine has been working fine and I am pretty happy so far - knock on wood. I took my fire bricks out and I took out the middle grate as CB recommended. All running well. I think my biggest challenge is not getting fumigated when I load it. I had this problem with my Greenwood as well. Despite my concerns, I think for next winter I am going to increase my chimney to 4 or 5 sections. I have 3 now. With the increased draft it may reduce the fumigation factor. For now I am wearing a respirator when loading. Anyone else have any lung saving recommendations with their units?
> 
> Good luck everyone.
> 
> Pete




I am happy with mine so far.   My biggest challange is keeping the creosote clear of the 2 rear air holes (those holes are not the primary air feed, so no biggie).  I agree,  cleaning this rig requires googles and a respirator.
I also have water that turned light brown over the winter and seems to contain clear globuals -Like grease (i will change that this summer = i may have added just a bit too much water treatment).
Other tham some minor annoyances,  the unit burns over 24hrs before needing a reload and keeps the house nice and toasty with minimal smoke output.


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## rpote (Mar 2, 2009)

I agree, my EC2300 has run pretty well this winter. Startup in November and we'll probably end up with 10 full cords burned in Adirondacks so not too bad. I think, based on my reading all the posts on both this and the forestry forum, that some lemons definitely got out of the CB shop. It sounds like John's unit was a really bad one. I didn't install thermopex and I am paying for it (lots of melted snow areas on top of ditch) I suspect after digging up the 180' of underground line this coming summer and doing it right with 1" thermopex my consumption will drop further (anyone spray insulated their pex? cost vs. thermopex?). This is on a house that used, on average, 1800 gal/yr of oil so my payback is still about 4-5yrs. Not too bad. 

Pulled bricks out of firebox. I just found two of the tubulators burned off at ends. When I emailed by dealer he said they should be warranted by any CB dealer (he's not what I call "customer-oriented"). Anyone have tubulator damage? Curious.

Craig - did you use fireplace grates from the house? Standard size or something special?


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## Johnbull (Mar 23, 2009)

Sorry, didn't catch your question sooner. I used cast iron grate curved somewhat with the appearance of a rib cage. Worked well but noticed that the temperature didn't seem to be holding at the end of the burn- before reloading. Pulled it out for now but will continue to experiment. Still having side firebrick issues. They keep being forced out by the creosote. Does anyone have knowledge of an alleged CB bulletin that says the bricks can be removed and it is ok to operate without. Was told the new units come with out brink on the side walls but that is still rumor to me.

Craig Ormsby
Martinsburg PA


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## No Smoke (Jan 27, 2010)

January 2010 UPDATE                 Much happier with the stove this season- changed out the pumps that the dealer had put on- asked our plumber friend about our concerns and asked him to take a look at the pumps- he saw what pumps were installed and had a fit- apparently they were bottom of the line and could not push much water- we changed them and have had good luck keeping water temp up. Have burned less wood- maybe 4+ times less wood than last year at this time!! For some reason the electric bill also is way down- probably blower or pumps are running less?????? Sad thing is that we had to figure everything out pretty much on our own and with the help of message boards and friends- seemed like the company just wanted the sale- and apparently had not done any of their own testing!  Also- we early purchase people missed the tax break for buying one How is everyone else doing?????????????????


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## ISeeDeadBTUs (Jan 27, 2010)

I see E-classics springing up around here, but haven't had a chance to talk to any operators.

As already posted, the fact that CB has told operators to remove firebrick indicates that they didn't test these things very well(or not at all) and they probably didn't design them either.

When it comes to sales/service, I found that my local dealer sucks. But I'm glad they do. It kept me from buying one of their units. I would NOT want to burn that much wood :gulp:


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## FBKS (Jan 29, 2010)

Hi, 5 of us have these e-classic units here in interior AK, bought them last year so this is the second heating season.  We have had similar issues and every time it came back to the wood not being dry -- I know that you said your wood had been under a roof & so had some of ours but WELL seasoned wood make these things work way better!! Get a moisture meter & check your wood or go buy a cord of really dry stuff and try that.  20 cords is to much though, I have not burned that much this year on a marginally insulated house/garage (2,500 SF) that my daughter likes warm.   I like mine, have not turned on the oil boiler yet this year, the pumps will use some power, just look at your data sheet with the pump, it will let you expected usage or buy an inexpensive plug in meter and measure it for a few days.  Let us know what works, PM me if you have specific questions, would be glad to help if we can.


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## shagy (Feb 5, 2010)

cjcamp said:
			
		

> January 2010 UPDATE                 Much happier with the stove this season- changed out the pumps that the dealer had put on- asked our plumber friend about our concerns and asked him to take a look at the pumps- he saw what pumps were installed and had a fit- apparently they were bottom of the line and could not push much water- we changed them and have had good luck keeping water temp up. Have burned less wood- maybe 4+ times less wood than last year at this time!! For some reason the electric bill also is way down- probably blower or pumps are running less?????? Sad thing is that we had to figure everything out pretty much on our own and with the help of message boards and friends- seemed like the company just wanted the sale- and apparently had not done any of their own testing!  Also- we early purchase people missed the tax break for buying one How is everyone else doing?????????????????


  Wonder when was the last time he talked to his dealer??? There have been some updates on those early boilers. Dealer did some work on my neighbors this fall and what a difference


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## No Smoke (Jul 1, 2010)

Dealer says he will get to us with our concerns- its summer 2010- apparently if there are fixes---- we do not get the information- will have to stay active on this board!
He says there are some kind of holes the company says to drill in the thing- 

I'm posting concerns for my husband- we loved it this winter but now find the inside of the thing is melted in the bottom- will know more after the dealer checks it out- 

this has been a time consuming investment- and a big investment at that!

Thanks to all who share experiences!


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## shagy (Jul 1, 2010)

cjcamp said:
			
		

> Dealer says he will get to us with our concerns- its summer 2010- apparently if there are fixes---- we do not get the information- will have to stay active on this board!
> He says there are some kind of holes the company says to drill in the thing-
> 
> I'm posting concerns for my husband- we loved it this winter but now find the inside of the thing is melted in the bottom- will know more after the dealer checks it out-
> ...



"we loved it this winter" Why would a dealer fix something that works? Why didnt you call your dealer when you received the diverter valve and the instructions on adding the extra holes a few months ago? Did you call your dealer when you noticed the fusion chamber "melted" I sure would have but I bet you didn't. Do you know your dealers phone #?


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## No Smoke (Jul 1, 2010)

"Why would a dealer fix something that works? Why didnt you call your dealer when you received the diverter valve and the instructions on adding the extra holes a few months ago? Did you call your dealer when you noticed the fusion chamber “melted” I sure would have but I bet you didn’t. Do you know your dealers phone #? "

Actually we did get in touch with him about the damage we recently noticed and he is coming to look at it. It is shut down for the summer. Are you implying that it really doesnt need to be fixed or that it is not anything to be concerned about? Hate to bother him if its just suppose to be that way. Looks like its just not right-it worked this winter but hate to have problems in the middle of next winter.

As for a diverter valve- have no idea what your speaking of, am sure he will explain it to my husband along with explaining the extra holes- have not received any literature about this- dealer knows we have had concerns and what model it is so I expect he would get to us with those fixes if they are of importance. Phones work both ways and he has our number and am sure he will try to keep his customer happy so quit the blame game- its the product thats broke and we all just want a good outcome-


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## shagy (Jul 1, 2010)

[quote author="larry4406" date="1233334370"]I am interested in the E-Classic 2300. I have been surfing this site and another site for quite some time http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?board=50.0 This other site seems to have a lot of E-2300 users. Apparently this unit is having teething pains. In particular, the threads on the other site dicuss:

- the fire bricks have been falling off (apparently new units are being shipped without)
- failure of bricks (cracking and loosening) in the reaction chamber
- Cracking of welds on the draft door

Is this unit really that bad?[/quote
The early 2300s had some issues. Many people that went by the book did alright. I have #28 and no upgrades. Works great as long as dry wood is used and cleaned as instructed.The fusion chamber on early ones did not hold up. Mine is still in good shape.Had it for 2 and 1/2 winters. Burn about 5 to 6 cord of wood per yr.There is a update on those who call dealers and inform them of this. That has been totally redesigned in the 2400.The firebrick was removed in the firebox because it traps moisture behind them if furnace falls below 150 deg causing corrosion. After seeing the 2400 any novice can easily see the improvement. Look at the E2400 or the E1400.


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## bobbys (Oct 23, 2010)

I've been using my new e-classic for the last 2 weeks and I'm pretty happy now that I seem to be getting over the learning curve.
My story is interesting. While delivering my owb this spring, my (not C.B's) delivery guy dropped it in my driveway requiring me to send the unit back to C.B. for repairs. While at the factory, they upgraded my 2009 model. They took out the firebricks, drilled more holes in the firebox, put a raised plate against the door, hung bars on firebox side to keep wood away from air holes. I may be missing a couple of things here, but these are some of the changes that have been made on the new models.

My only complaint at this point is that on warmer days (50 degrees plus) I'm losing my bed of coals when the boiler sits idle for 3 or 4 hours straight. It's easily re-ignited with some kindling and a little newspaper. Some times just leaving the door open for a few minutes does the trick. I have heard of the solenoid paper clip trick, but I've ordered the pulse air kit trying to do the right thing.
I think once we get some cold weather and I have my d.h.w. hooked in this problem will go away with a steady call for heat.
Hope to hear from other 2300 owners.


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## shagy (Oct 25, 2010)

You need to change the pulse on controller. The stove needs have air injected about every 20 min and for 40 t0 50 seconds. Or it will go out when on a lite load


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## ISeeDeadBTUs (Oct 25, 2010)

No Smoke said:
			
		

> "Why would a dealer fix something that works? Why didnt you call your dealer when you received the diverter valve and the instructions on adding the extra holes a few months ago? Did you call your dealer when you noticed the fusion chamber “melted” I sure would have but I bet you didn’t. Do you know your dealers phone #? "
> 
> Actually we did get in touch with him about the damage we recently noticed and he is coming to look at it. It is shut down for the summer. Are you implying that it really doesnt need to be fixed or that it is not anything to be concerned about? Hate to bother him if its just suppose to be that way. Looks like its just not right-it worked this winter but hate to have problems in the middle of next winter.
> 
> As for a diverter valve- have no idea what your speaking of, am sure he will explain it to my husband along with explaining the extra holes- have not received any literature about this- dealer knows we have had concerns and what model it is so I expect he would get to us with those fixes if they are of importance. Phones work both ways and he has our number and am sure he will try to keep his customer happy so quit the blame game- its the product thats broke and we all just want a good outcome-



Lol, NoSmoke, pay no attention to shagy. He's a salesman. And as you can tell from his attitude, he's obviously a CB salesman.

Keep posting your experiences and questions here. Some of the people who actually KNOW something about these units - and don't stand to make any pecuniary returns off you - will help you out.

Rock on.


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## shagy (Oct 25, 2010)

Well I own 2 of these and would think I would know more about it than the little lady.    
 I have updated one(last winter)but the other one has not been . They both work fine as is. Why? Maybe I know what Im talking about. Heaven forbid anyone listen to there dealer. They sure do not anything about there product. 
On Feb 23rd 10 these owners were mailed the updates and what to look for that are in question.The husben amitted this .
As with all other owners on here of other brands there is a learning curve.We see all different brands having problems. Is it the stoves fault or the owner? Probably the owner. 
 I think these people are getting much better treatment from CB than what Greenwood owners are getting from Greenwood.Dont ya think?


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## shagy (Oct 25, 2010)

Well I own 2 of these and would think I would know more about it than the little lady. 
I have updated one(last winter)but the other one has not been . They both work fine as is. Why? Maybe I know what Im talking about. Heaven forbid anyone listen to there dealer. They sure do not anything about there product. 
On Feb 23rd 10 these owners were mailed the updates and what to look for that are in question.The husband admitted this .
As with all other owners on here of other brands there is a learning curve.We see all different brands having problems. Is it the stoves fault or the owner? Probably the owner. 
I think these people are getting much better treatment from CB than what Greenwood owners are getting from Greenwood.Dont ya think?


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## bobbys (Oct 25, 2010)

shagy said:
			
		

> You need to change the pulse on controller. The stove needs have air injected about every 20 min and for 40 t0 50 seconds. Or it will go out when on a lite load



I did receive my pulse controller but haven't had a chance to install it yet. Mine didn't come with one.

I've noticed a big difference with my bed of coals this weekend as high temps. stayed in the upper 30's/lower 40's while lows were in the upper 20's. No problems with the coals going out, everything burned completely overnight.
I suppose what's helping too is  that my DHW is being produced by the OWB now.
One more positive factor is that I've been burning marginally seasoned pine and various hardwoods I've found already down in the woods. If this stuff is burning well, I'm sure when the real cold comes my seasoned wood will be even better.

Seems like the e-classic prefers any wood over about 4" to be split

Are you guys using Ashtrol?


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## Como (Oct 26, 2010)

There is one installed not far from me, burning mainly pine. I was speaking to the dealer and asked how much wood they were going to be using. I did not get a reply.

Now there were 3 propane furnaces each about 330,000 btus gross. The Central Boiler brochure says it can replace up to 800 gallons of fuel oil, so assuming this would be maxed out that is about 100m btus a month.

Pine is about 17m btu's a cord, so 6 cords multiplied by efficiency, 50%? So 12 cords a month for now until May ish. I do not think the owner has thought through exactly how much will be going through this puppy.

I know it has a big firebox, but is this even physically plausible?


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## ISeeDeadBTUs (Oct 27, 2010)

Hows it gonna gasify with the load door always open? :coolsmile:


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