# Start up problem on USSC 5502M King



## tractorboy924 (Sep 21, 2016)

we got the stove from TSC about a year ago and finally installed it as I burned wood before.  ran the initial sequence and all ok.. then during running the dry run procedure it does not complete and says there is a draft issue?? and the exhaust fan just starts, then stops right away and repeats.  Door closed all my connections on the exhaust are good and sealed with sealant.  I DONT have a OAK and draw from the room, 1100 sq ft so no neg pressure issues as my last stove pulled air from the room.  I dont know what to check or do to tryand solve this issue??  I guess I also dont understand what the stove is doing?  creating a vaccum pressure in the fire box and thus it leaks air or what??
while its trying to do this..if i OPEN the door the exhaust fans stays running???

I would GREATLY appreciate any advise or help of what to check to solve this issue!!

Oh Ive also seen many people ask about vents and piping and that.  I have it at a 45 degree angle in room so I have a 45 elbow 2 1' pipes through the thimble to the tee.  then 5' or so of rise of 3" pipe as called for in the manual.  Instructions said outside should be 3' but my wife wanted me to go a little higher....could this be the issue as I see many seem to point to the venting in some way.


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## Lake Girl (Sep 21, 2016)

Apparently the exhaust fans pulse rather than a steady RPM but that doesn't seem the issue.  Have you checked to make sure there is no packing material in the air intake that may be blocking that?

This thread sounds like a similar problem ... draft fan was set too high.  This may explain why the fan starts up when you open the door and it shouldn't.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/king-55002-m-out-again.137996/page-4
http://www.tractorsupply.com/static/sites/TSC/downloads/ProdContentPDFs/1098925_Man1.pdf page14 goes through setting the draft fan.

Stove in manual or auto?


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## tractorboy924 (Sep 22, 2016)

Lake Girl said:


> Apparently the exhaust fans pulse rather than a steady RPM but that doesn't seem the issue.  Have you checked to make sure there is no packing material in the air intake that may be blocking that?
> 
> This thread sounds like a similar problem ... draft fan was set too high.  This may explain why the fan starts up when you open the door and it shouldn't.
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/king-55002-m-out-again.137996/page-4
> ...


Autpo mode as we are perfoming the dry run test.  called USSC and they said I shojuld put foil tape on all my joints to make sure not air leaking and to check the rubber hose connection in the draft fan sensor in the back of the unit so I plan to do that tonight and will check.  I didt think any material in the intake but I will check for SURE!  Fan speeds have not been messed with since in auto mode for the dry test the manual calls for.....  I will check regardless and see,.


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## Lake Girl (Sep 22, 2016)

I thought of the vacuum switch/draft fan sensor but if it was faulty, it shouldn't have run when the door was open.  Worth a check though.  Make sure you unplug the stove when working in the cabinet.  If it isn't on surge protection, make sure you do that as well.

From the link I gave you, Owen1508 was a USSC stove tech.  He mentioned that you can run a straightened coat hanger through air intake to under burn pot.  Good way to ensure nothing left in there by accident.

Wondering if when they ran diagnostics at the factory, they never reset to original settings.  You might want to see page 14, AUX buttons, to return the stove to factory settings.

What lights on display panel were on when running the diagnostics?  If the draft issues comes up again, may want to try opening a door/window near the stove to see if that changes stove reaction.  If it does, you likely will need to install an OAK due to negative house pressure.

Keep us posted!


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## tractorboy924 (Sep 22, 2016)

Lake Girl said:


> I thought of the vacuum switch/draft fan sensor but if it was faulty, it shouldn't have run when the door was open.  Worth a check though.  Make sure you unplug the stove when working in the cabinet.  If it isn't on surge protection, make sure you do that as well.
> 
> From the link I gave you, Owen1508 was a USSC stove tech.  He mentioned that you can run a straightened coat hanger through air intake to under burn pot.  Good way to ensure nothing left in there by accident.
> 
> ...



thank you also for all your time and help.  im freakin out as I took out wood stove and now this is my only heat source so im afraid something wrong but hoping its a simple thing.  They say its a Pos pressure thing so that means vent is under pos pressure?  does that mean its try to create a vacumm in the fire box???

Good idea on the coat hanger as well.  I dont know what lights were lit during the diagnostic check as my wife did it.....
the second time we tried to run the dry run I had a window open and thought of the neg air pressure so put a fan near back of stove to push more air into the area.  our old wood stove worked ok drawing household air so I would not think it should be a problem but I did that all in case.
Good point to I will reset all to factor defaults.  Let me try to find out what lights were on during the diagnostic start up too

I did the dollar bill test and that passed for sure!  nice and tight on the door gasket! and I know when the draft fan first started it was blowing decent and semi strong out the outside exhaust cap!!
.


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## Lake Girl (Sep 22, 2016)

Don't freak yet ... you still have a bit of time before the real cold hits your area.  Former Grand Island/Buffalo, NY resident.

I would do the reset and then write down what lights/messages are coming up.  As I mentioned, the exhaust fan does pulse down so exhaust flow will decrease but you should not be getting error codes.

What is your exhaust set-up?  Up and out, out and up?  Many elbows?  3" or 4"?  Using old set up from wood stove with adapter?


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## tractorboy924 (Sep 22, 2016)

ok we will run the diagnostic test again tonight and note the lights then reset...(then probaby run it again!) .to let you know what is lit if anything.  she does not remember if any likes but remembers all check out ok per the explanation is the manual (whatever that means)

during the dry run test I don't get any error codes its just stuck in that cycle of starting up and then winding down immediately..and we let it run for a while and seems to be stuck i that sequence. display always displaying the Hr-1 indicating the dry run test. but the draft fan light does come one to indicate the problem I'm assuming.

My set up is as follows as ussc asked as well.  All 3" vent double wall tubing.  Out the back exhaust port horizontally to a 45 elbow to 2' of straight pipe to go through thimble ( as the unit sit at a 45 degree angle in the corner of the room.) in wall to the T clean out pipe then 5' straight pipe (Verticle) to a 90 degree to the exhaust cap.

this is a 100% new vent as it said I could not use the old clay tile chimney I had for wood stove.  All joints seamed and sealed with fireplace sealant and I check for any air leaks when It first ran and all seemed ok at that time but do plan to apply foil tape to all joints per USSC tech support advisement. and ofcourse check that hose on the sensor.

I know gotta relax as most likely something stupid/small always is with this stuff.... thanks


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## tractorboy924 (Sep 22, 2016)

tractorboy924 said:


> ok we will run the diagnostic test again tonight and note the lights then reset...(then probaby run it again!) .to let you know what is lit if anything.  she does not remember if any likes but remembers all check out ok per the explanation is the manual (whatever that means)
> 
> during the dry run test I don't get any error codes its just stuck in that cycle of starting up and then winding down immediately..and we let it run for a while and seems to be stuck i that sequence. display always displaying the Hr-1 indicating the dry run test. but the draft fan light does come one to indicate the problem I'm assuming.
> 
> ...




ok so tonight I did as ussc said.  I foil taped all the joints and also checked the rubber tube on the draft sensor all good.  during the initial diagnostic test I get a draft issue... draft fan light blinking and says drft on display....  this is after a factory default reset too.  I also for the hell of it ran the dry run test and it again sticks at the draft fan test and tries to wind up but shuts off and draft fan light blinks indicating a draft issue.  I had windows all open as well in case so I think I can rule out a neg room pressure issue.  What the heck should I do next.  calling ussc in the am and again see what they say have reset to factory multiple times in case and reran dry run test and diag test.  always says a draft problem.   also unplugged the wire to the draft sensor and plugged back in and no go.

I cannot see that anything can be wrong with my venting. this is really bothering me again door gasket is good as passes dollar bill test and fresh air tube is clear and working fine from what I can see...........


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## Lake Girl (Sep 22, 2016)

Hopper lid secured?  Is there a gasket on the lid?  Can't tell from the manual if it has one.

Did you actually run a coat hanger into the air inlet?  Some are equipped with a damper.  Wondering if there is one on this stove and if it is jammed from the painting process...


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## Mt Bob (Sep 22, 2016)

Something you can try,jumper the 2 wires going to the pressure switch(unhook from switch,hook wires together)and then run a "dry run".If works,try initial test.The results may help them decide what parts to send you.I do know they had control board problems,causing the problem you have.Please unplug stove before handling any wiring.


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## Lake Girl (Sep 22, 2016)

bob bare said:


> .I do know they had control board problems,


Couldn't remember what USSC stoves had the control board issues ...   

Wondering if any adjustments where made to the controls but they should have gone back to factory settings.  Good thread for discussion of functions
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/king-pellet-stove-5502m-issues.152844/#post-2069848


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## FirepotPete (Sep 22, 2016)

Lake Girl said:


> Couldn't remember what USSC stoves had the control board issues ...
> 
> Wondering if any adjustments where made to the controls but they should have gone back to factory settings.  Good thread for discussion of functions
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/king-pellet-stove-5502m-issues.152844/#post-2069848


Those control boards pulse the exhaust fan until the temp is satisfied and then run at a steady speed. Also when opening the door the exhaust fan should ramp up and run at the highest speed. The reason for that is that the control board is sensing a loss of vacuum, so it is acting properly.


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## tractorboy924 (Sep 23, 2016)

FirepotPete said:


> Those control boards pulse the exhaust fan until the temp is satisfied and then run at a steady speed. Also when opening the door the exhaust fan should ramp up and run at the highest speed. The reason for that is that the control board is sensing a loss of vacuum, so it is acting properly.


Yes when I open the door during the process it does ramp up and run on high. so i guess thats good.


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## tractorboy924 (Sep 23, 2016)

Lake Girl said:


> Hopper lid secured?  Is there a gasket on the lid?  Can't tell from the manual if it has one.
> 
> Did you actually run a coat hanger into the air inlet?  Some are equipped with a damper.  Wondering if there is one on this stove and if it is jammed from the painting process...


I think there is a gasket but hopper lid was closed at all times running.  I will check again on the gasket.....
no gasket on hopper lid but wife say seems to seal pretty good and lid is flat nicely all along opening ridge.


I did not run a coat hanger throught it as I looked down the pipe will run something physicallly through it too.  If I jump the sensor whiles will that make the unit not detect and therefore ramp the fan up to speed show that the sensor is not detected?  Ok Will try that before I call them.  God wish I was home to do this all.  will have to ofcourse after work.


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## Mt Bob (Sep 23, 2016)

Basically,your stove is showing a vacuum leak,or a switch,or control board problem.Few passive mechanical things can cause this,bad door gasket,bad glass gasket,bad internal gasket,or bad internal assembly,or weld.Another est is to partially block off air intake while performing the start up tests.Am trying to help you give the mfg. as much info as possible.Personally,if this is your only heat,i would prefer to see you have a better quality stove.


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## FirepotPete (Sep 23, 2016)

I guess I'm not understanding why you think you have a problem. The exhaust fan seems to be doing what it should do. You say you are doing a dry run? Is that without fire? Until you run that stove with a fire in it you won't know anything.

If the stove was sensing a loss of vacuum with the door closed the exhaust fan wouldn't be pulsing it would be running high like it does when you open the door.


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## Lake Girl (Sep 23, 2016)

Thanks for the clarification Pete ... the exhaust fans on these run different than the norm on pellet stoves.  He should be adding pellets and give it a real run?  If the exhaust fan (draft fan) will rev and idle on test, why isn't that stated in the manual?  I know, saw the comments that the manuals are lousy...

He needs to pay attention to the setting of the feed plate in the hopper?  From what I've read, that is another area that can cause problems...


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## Mt Bob (Sep 23, 2016)

His stove has a test mode,called initial test.The combustion motor will ramp up and down,but light is not supposed to flash,as the vacuum switch should stay closed even in combustion motor slow mode.If does not pass this test,it may not allow you to go to the next test step.In dry run,there are no pellets in hopper,stove will go through a complete start up cycle,and shut down after about 20 min.,as described in manual.If stove sees a vacuum problem,start up will not continue.Hope this helps.


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## FirepotPete (Sep 23, 2016)

Lake Girl said:


> Thanks for the clarification Pete ... the exhaust fans on these run different than the norm on pellet stoves.  He should be adding pellets and give it a real run?  If the exhaust fan (draft fan) will rev and idle on test, why isn't that stated in the manual?  I know, saw the comments that the manuals are lousy...
> 
> He needs to pay attention to the setting of the feed plate in the hopper?  From what I've read, that is another area that can cause problems...


I guess I don't know if he should be adding a fire to it yet. He states he's making a dry run? I can only think it's a diagnostic test that can be run on these boards and for some reason it isn't completing and giving a blinking light error code suggesting an exhaust problem. But not sure what "dry run" really means in this case. Or what exact error code is blinking and by which button on the board.

The board on his stove is basically the same as mine. USSC has used that board on many stoves/furnaces and the basics of it are the same with some additional tweaks being made for each specific stove.

Yes the manuals are terrible, USSC keeps information very secret about the boards for the most part. I don't know why they keep it such a secret considering they have very few, if any, techs on the ground to go to someone's house and work on their products. I guess liability is the only reason I can think of.

My stove doesn't have a feed plate in the hopper so I won't say anything about how to adjust it, but yes I would imagine once the stove is up and burning that will need to be adjusted according to the size of pellets he is using. That's going to take finding the sweet spot and then doing all feed adjustments from the board from then on, unless changing pellet types, even then it should be close enough to just adjust from the board.


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## Lake Girl (Sep 23, 2016)

Went back and re-read his post ... draft fan light blinking so it is sensing a vacuum problem.  From the manual:
"Flashing Draft Fan Setting Indicator: This indicates that the stove is in normal operation and that the vacuum sensor detects a loss of pressure either because the door is open or because there is a negative pressure in the room with respect to the exhaust."

Obstruction in air intake or too tight a house with little air infiltration, obstruction on exhaust (but doesn't seem the case), vacuum sensor problem or board problem...

Edit:  if it was a problem with the house being too tight, should have resolved with opening windows.  Apparently tried this with no change...


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## FirepotPete (Sep 23, 2016)

Lake Girl said:


> Went back and re-read his post ... draft fan light blinking so it is sensing a vacuum problem.  From the manual:
> "Flashing Draft Fan Setting Indicator: This indicates that the stove is in normal operation and that the vacuum sensor detects a loss of pressure either because the door is open or because there is a negative pressure in the room with respect to the exhaust."
> 
> Obstruction in air intake or too tight a house with little air infiltration, obstruction on exhaust (but doesn't seem the case), vacuum sensor problem or board problem...


Bad hopper lid switch? Easy to check without messing up any coverage from USSC that might be left from buying it last year.


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## tractorboy924 (Sep 23, 2016)

FirepotPete said:


> I guess I don't know if he should be adding a fire to it yet. He states he's making a dry run? I can only think it's a diagnostic test that can be run on these boards and for some reason it isn't completing and giving a blinking light error code suggesting an exhaust problem. But not sure what "dry run" really means in this case. Or what exact error code is blinking and by which button on the board.
> 
> The board on his stove is basically the same as mine. USSC has used that board on many stoves/furnaces and the basics of it are the same with some additional tweaks being made for each specific stove.
> 
> ...




Yes Pete this stove has two process' that the manual calls for.  The first is a diagnotstic test and it says draft  and has a light for the draft fan  and then after that test manual calls for a DRY Run Test which is done with no pellets and says needs to be performed before you can run fuel it so.

the door gasket was test with the so called dollar bill test at many points along the door seal and its tight! so the door seal is good.  Im wondering if I have a bad hopper seal and Im thinking I can test that by "Blocking" the pellet inlet pipe.

I dont see this feed plate many talk about with the Wing nut on it?? I looked.. I was not aware that this was a "low quality stove I guess when I bought it?  what are quality stove that should be looked at.

Im sure I will get it but I just cant seem to figure it out.  could the draft sensor be bad or is that for sure I must have a leak somewhere in the fire box for this error to be.

when im doing the dry run that should take 23 min per the manul and gets to the draft fan portion.... the draft fan light is no indicating a draft leak and just stays at this procedure pulsing the fan.  so I cannot even run this thing with fuel in it yet as I presume from the manual.....as the dry run is not completing..during this dry run test display just says Hr-1 on it.

thanks all

also Pete I think the hopper lid switch is good as thats part of initial test and when tested it on our own say in the diagnotic test it stopped all fans intake and others as it sensed hopper open.

All looks pretty well sealed in the fire box as I looked around the fire box at welds and other stuff but again...does take much im presuming.

let me know if any of you trying to help me would like to see the manual describing the initial test and dry run test function that needs to be peformed before putting into operation.


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## FirepotPete (Sep 23, 2016)

tractorboy924 said:


> Yes Pete this stove has two process' that the manual calls for.  The first is a diagnotstic test and it says draft  and has a light for the draft fan  and then after that test manual calls for a DRY Run Test which is done with no pellets and says needs to be performed before you can run fuel it so.
> 
> the door gasket was test with the so called dollar bill test at many points along the door seal and its tight! so the door seal is good.  Im wondering if I have a bad hopper seal and Im thinking I can test that by "Blocking" the pellet inlet pipe.
> 
> ...


Is there a switch on the hopper lid? If there is then see if the lid is contacting the switch. If it is then check that the wires on the switch are properly connected.

Is there a manual damper on that stove? If so make sure it is closed all the way when doing the tests.


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## tractorboy924 (Sep 23, 2016)

FirepotPete said:


> Is there a switch on the hopper lid? If there is then see if the lid is contacting the switch. If it is then check that the wires on the switch are properly connected.
> 
> Is there a manual damper on that stove? If so make sure it is closed all the way when doing the tests.



yes hopper lid is making contact with switch... also can hear it CLICK when closing the door so contact is being made and wires all look good as I check it out last night,.  it also say operating ok per the initial diagnotstic test

with the lid down should I tape and seal the gap between door and stove and running test to see if hopper lid has a leak since no gasket???

no manual damper either on this unit.


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## Mt Bob (Sep 23, 2016)

the hopper switch would only shut off auger.


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## Mt Bob (Sep 23, 2016)

Your stove is designed to have enough vacuum without a hopper gasket,and with no pellets in hopper.


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## FirepotPete (Sep 23, 2016)

bob bare said:


> the hopper switch would only shut off auger.


On mine it turns off the auger and makes the exhaust fan run on the highest speed.

OK, in the manual for that stove for the dry run, the dry run must be performed PRIOR to connecting the exhaust piping or intake piping.

Do you have the exhaust connected?


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## Lake Girl (Sep 23, 2016)

FirepotPete said:


> OK, in the manual for that stove for the dry run, the dry run must be performed PRIOR to connecting the exhaust piping or intake piping



One line and one word that may make the difference!  Dry run designed not to have the exhaust connected and it is.

tractorboy, any way to easily disconnect the exhaust at the appliance adapter?


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## FirepotPete (Sep 23, 2016)

Lake Girl said:


> One line and one word that may make the difference!  Dry run designed not to have the exhaust connected and it is.
> 
> tractorboy, any way to easily disconnect the exhaust at the appliance adapter?


I really hope it's that easy!


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## tractorboy924 (Sep 23, 2016)

I will re-read instructions as yes I have it all hooked up.  Im sure I could take it back off and retape it...but I didnt see that in the book...the book led me to beleive once its all installed you do the tests.  Damn.

I can take it off and run it again Im sure.  I just hope I get a good seal back on it as that was the area I was concerned about not sealing well it just pushes on vs the twist lock that built within the vent pipes.

I can and will try taht this evening.

I also called USSC and they wanted pics of my installation so ssent that to them.  tried to post here too but problems.

edited... DUH its only the FIRST sentence in the manual under Dry run DUH...so OK I will do that  damn I cant beleive that didnt register with my brain!!

lake girl I can easilly disconnect it by pulling the adapter off from the ehaust outlet?  is that good enough as the adapter is twist locked on the other side to the first pc of vent pipe and may be difficult.  just making sure that follow directions clearly from now on!

I dont get how it would matter but not an engineer just need to follow instructions.

*Perform a “dry run” on your stove prior to making the exhaust/inlet connections and starting your stove for the first time.*


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## Mt Bob (Sep 23, 2016)

do not think i would unless ussc requests


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## tractorboy924 (Sep 23, 2016)

I will advise what USSC says when they call me.


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## Mt Bob (Sep 23, 2016)

Looks ok from here,only possible thing could be a section is closed off with packing paper


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## tractorboy924 (Sep 23, 2016)

bob bare said:


> Looks ok from here,only possible thing could be a section is closed off with packing paper



mY WIFE JUST suggested that too.  There is not as I check and I know air is blowing out as I went out and check airflow when we first fired up tests the other day.  only 1 section had paper from shipping in it.  but it is something i checked and airflow seems ok from the outside at the cap.


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## Mt Bob (Sep 23, 2016)

lol


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## FirepotPete (Sep 23, 2016)

Truthfully I really don't see why that would make a difference if it is connected or not. I think they only say to do it before installation so that if there is a problem it is caught before all the work is done. But..................at least it will eliminate that small issue in the manual.


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## Mt Bob (Sep 23, 2016)

well you know vacuum switch is working,as fan speeds up upon opening door,however does not mean switch is operating properly,or that control board programming is proper.Also is possible the control board is not running fan at proper speed.There has been some of these stoves that had too much draft,fan running too fast.


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## Mt Bob (Sep 23, 2016)

the right way to check this stove would be with a magnehelic guage,but most people do not own them.You probably jumper the switch and see if it will start up and run,but is not a long term solution,as the switch is a safety feature.


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## Lake Girl (Sep 23, 2016)

Not sure if this will come up with USSC but recall one stove owner who did not install an OAK and they would not honor the warranty.  For him, since it was a brand new purchase, he just returned the stove.  Will see if I can find the thread...

Edit:  You should be OK as you have the vertical venting they call for (not direct vent).  The owner with the issue had a direct vent w/o OAK.  Either had to add the vertical or install an OAK.  For clarity sake, Owen1508 no longer works for USSC.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/help-installed-new-stove-wont-run.140373/


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## FirepotPete (Sep 23, 2016)

bob bare said:


> the right way to check this stove would be with a magnehelic guage,but most people do not own them.You probably jumper the switch and see if it will start up and run,but is not a long term solution,as the switch is a safety feature.


Or a homemade manometer. Wouldn't be exact but would show a loss of vac.


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## tractorboy924 (Sep 23, 2016)

Lake Girl said:


> Not sure if this will come up with USSC but recall one stove owner who did not install an OAK and they would not honor the warranty.  For him, since it was a brand new purchase, he just returned the stove.  Will see if I can find the thread...
> 
> Edit:  You should be OK as you have the vertical venting they call for (not direct vent).  The owner with the issue had a direct vent w/o OAK.  Either had to add the vertical or install an OAK.  For clarity sake, Owen1508 no longer works for USSC.
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/help-installed-new-stove-wont-run.140373/


USSC said I should be ok but to rule it out open all windows when trying to run test to ensure not negative air pressue as I dont have a OAK kit installed my wood burning stove never had an issue so Im sure the room has enough air to support it.  its about an 1100sq ft room... its the whole downstairs.

the only thing I have done to screw myself it I bought it on clearance last year but didnt install till just now so no warranty now on it if I have to swap and parts and what not.  we will see.  thank you everyone for the help as I just dont get it.  so i was right in my thinking in that it wants to create a vaccumm or neg air situation within the fire box portion of the stove.  Hmm   ok.  
I hope USSC is open this weekend as im trying to work on this?!  I had a tough time getting ahold of them this afternoon.  again they just asked  for pics of my vent setup.

also when I put my hand over the fresh air intake of has good suction.  I think I read above and will again that try restricting air flow inward a bit to see if that helps??

no work yet from USSC but they want to review my set up next.


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## Mt Bob (Sep 23, 2016)

OK so you have nothing to lose.Lets see if it runs.Hook the wires together,OR tape off 1/2 the intake and run a test,see if there is a difference.Might actually need more tape than that but is a starting point for first test.If it does pass test,either way,put in pellets and see if it runs.If it does,good,will be time to borrow a gauge from a hvac person to see if switch/board or internal problem.


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## Lake Girl (Sep 23, 2016)

tractorboy924 said:


> I bought it on clearance last year but didnt install till just now so no warranty now on it


Is that the word from USSC or are you just figuring that due to the time span since purchase?  Roughly when last year?


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## Lake Girl (Sep 23, 2016)

Chops seems to have had the same issue with his stove ... It may be worth a try with pellets since you taped up the joints.  
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/us-stove-company-buyer-beware.153411/page-4#post-2065861


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## Mt Bob (Sep 23, 2016)

Lake Girl said:


> Chops seems to have had the same issue with his stove ... It may be worth a try with pellets since you taped up the joints.
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/us-stove-company-buyer-beware.153411/page-4#post-2065861


Yep,lots of these stoves were junk the day they were made,most pellet repair shops treat them as a mr coffee,if doesnt work,throw it away and buy another,not worth the time/money.And,actually,on the older posts,the taping is on the oak piping that made the difference,not the exhaust.I normally do not try to help out with these stoves,even though i have repaired them,but owen is the king of these units,but is cold and a new install i thought we have a chance to help out tractorboy


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## Lake Girl (Sep 23, 2016)

These are stoves that have definitely had their problems.  Hopefully issue can be identified.  It is getting cooler but has a bit of time to figure it out...
There are a some members that seem to have had success with them


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## tractorboy924 (Sep 25, 2016)

Damn wish  did more research before I purchased it.  OH well I gotta think I can fixed somehow.  keep at it I will   and No I'm just assuming I have no warranty given date of purchase that's all ..  I tend to always assume the worst.


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## tractorboy924 (Sep 25, 2016)

OK TRYING the initial dry run with the two draft sensor switch wires jumped.  still pulsing but not getting light for draft fan.  guessing has to do with wires jumpered.  so she is still pulsing.    looked again and not seeing any immediate leak area or potential leak areas in fire box. and still don't see a adjustment plate with wing nut for pellet release.


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## Mt Bob (Sep 26, 2016)

pulsing is normal.light not on means system is ok,adjustment plate in feeder unit is only on some models,would not affect your problem.Recommend leave jumpered,light stove,run for a while and see how it works,report results to MFG for recommendation.


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## Lake Girl (Sep 26, 2016)

Thanks Bob ... no power here yesterday.  Off to the vet today with my dog and hoping it's not hip dysplasia


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## tractorboy924 (Sep 26, 2016)

Lake Girl said:


> Thanks Bob ... no power here yesterday.  Off to the vet today with my dog and hoping it's not hip dysplasia



I did find out that my wife looked at receipt and the warranty is a year so we are still good on that actually till november but Im hoping this works.  trying to start a fire in unit is ok as I know manual says that the pellets should take about 5 min to start a fire and the ignitor test is only 3???

Also with wires jumped if I open the door it does not ramp the fan up to full speed.  not sure if that means anything.

Thank you all for the help and ideas!!


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## tractorboy924 (Sep 26, 2016)

ok my wife just called USSC again and got a different rep..ive talked to same one twice.  he said as far as hes concerned stove is fine.  it will pulse and light will be on as there is no combustion.  He said the first rep should not have progressed this far and that all  my joints look fine.  my wife said he said it will do that as its not sensing a fire and thus no oxygen is being used.  when there is a fire it will be ok...so I guess Im getting a bag of pellets tonight and gonna try it.  he said if we left if i the dry run for say 30-45 min it may finish but dont worry about that he said.  SO and from the other post that you guys/gals posted above from CHOPS  I see he got all the same stuff but in the end he was fine.  tech said basically dont worry about the pulsing and the light.....run in with a fire and it will be fine.  so i guess I will do that tonight as my next step.  night are down to 40 anyways so a fire wont kill us or anything with windows open.

Run it and watch the car wreck of a debate I guess will be the plan.  will advise all in the am but this could be like chops thread!!


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## Lake Girl (Sep 26, 2016)

Hook your draft sensor (vacuum switch) back up before you do the first burn.  Do Not Leave it Jumped!  You likely will get a bit of smell from interior firebox paint.  Would have been better to do your first burn outside so you don't have to deal with the smell but you're beyond that!

Edit:  Good to hear you have a bit of time on warranty... put it through it's paces!

Good luck and keep us posted...


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## tractorboy924 (Sep 27, 2016)

Lake Girl said:


> Hook your draft sensor (vacuum switch) back up before you do the first burn.  Do Not Leave it Jumped!  You likely will get a bit of smell from interior firebox paint.  Would have been better to do your first burn outside so you don't have to deal with the smell but you're beyond that!
> 
> Edit:  Good to hear you have a bit of time on warranty... put it through it's paces!
> 
> Good luck and keep us posted...


Nope I did.  hook the sensor switch back up.   ran TSC brand pellets in it just fine..everything perfect.  ran it on #3 HR per tech and she burned and ran perfect.  does that room blower fan run all the time?  I presume it does.  I thought I remember this had a thermostat on it but I guess not as it ran the whole time and didn't read anything about that in the manual so I must be mistaken.......but again she ran great so I went and got a ton today starting to stock up.  thanks all for the help.  I could not do it without you.  as many others has said these manuals could be better.


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## FirepotPete (Sep 27, 2016)

tractorboy924 said:


> does that room blower fan run all the time?



Yes. Now let the arguments will begin!

I and many others run the room fan full speed. I see it as why blow heat out of the exhaust?
If you play with it enough you should find you will get just as warm say on HR3 with the room fan on high as compared to having to run the stove on HR4 with the room fan on a lower setting. Less fuel used, same result.

If noise isn't a problem I would run the room fan on its highest and then adjust the HR to get the room the temp you like. Otherwise you are just blowing heat out of the exhaust. IMO.

Let the discussions begin.


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## tractorboy924 (Sep 27, 2016)

FirepotPete said:


> Yes. Now let the arguments will begin!
> 
> I and many others run the room fan full speed. I see it as why blow heat out of the exhaust?
> If you play with it enough you should find you will get just as warm say on HR3 with the room fan on high as compared to having to run the stove on HR4 with the room fan on a lower setting. Less fuel used, same result.
> ...


NO  No  didn't mean to start anything...  I ran it on HR-3 and sorta like that but we will see how it is when snow is flying and fan wasn't that bad I just noticed it seem to run all the time is all.  After reading your post I see many seem to have issues with that.


noise and ectectra.  but I'm just glad its working and need to get it dialed in this winter.  the tech said you gotta get used to running in to your preference sorta like a wood stove.  took us a winter or two to get the wood burning down.    now my wife is an expert so we switched it up.  LOL

I don't want to send my heat out the exhaust either.. and I have to get it to get all over the whole house so that's good advise!!  it was on auto for now but sounds we will play with that.  on high makes sense as whatever does come out the front goes out the back!!


thanks all!!


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## FirepotPete (Sep 27, 2016)

tractorboy924 said:


> NO No didn't mean to start anything...



No problem, there are few if any "heated" discussions here, usually only "heat" discussions. I'm just a cheap bxxxxxd so I try and get every BTU in the house.

It will take a little playing to get it where you like it, no pellet stove is as simple as a wood burner, except a couple of gravity fed models but they don't throw the heat like a regulated pellet stove.


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## Lake Girl (Sep 27, 2016)

tractorboy, when making adjustments to settings, note what changes you make and the results.  Usually takes 20 minutes to 1/2 hour to get a good feel of the results of the changes.  If you don't like the results, recording previous settings will get you back to one you could live with...


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## tractorboy924 (Sep 28, 2016)

Lake Girl said:


> tractorboy, when making adjustments to settings, note what changes you make and the results.  Usually takes 20 minutes to 1/2 hour to get a good feel of the results of the changes.  If you don't like the results, recording previous settings will get you back to one you could live with...


thank you for that advice.


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