# Fair Price for Harman Accentra Pellet Stove?



## wmarazita

I am in the market to buy a pellet stove and found a Harman Accentra stove for sale locally. It is used and I don't have much info about it yet except that it is "in good working order and cosmetically in very good shape" according to the seller. I have attached a photo of the stove.

I am looking to get some advice on a fair price for the stove. Also, is this a good quality stove? And, what sorts of things should I be looking out for when I go inspect the stove?

Thanks!

Bill


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## Dougsey

what's the asking price?


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## wmarazita

Dougsey said:


> what's the asking price?



They said they were negotiable, but wanted to get around $1000. for it.

Thanks


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## Bioburner

Get the cash and go fire it up and let it run till the fan runs. If it does, load it and go and don't look back because the owner may try and run you down to get it back. Looks like it even has some venting!


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## mik_kane

How old is the stove? If it works $1000 is a good price you could offer a 100 less but if it works I would buy that stove. Harmans are the top of the line imo.
You could put the stove on test mode and listen to the fans. If you want to run it bring some pellets with you and fire it up and listen to the auger for any strange noise.


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## P38X2

That seems like a pretty good price. If all is in working order, I wouldn't fart around too much or it'll likely get snapped up.

Tons of help on here if you need it.


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## mik_kane

P38X2 said:


> That seems like a pretty good price. If all is in working order, I wouldn't fart around too much or it'll likely get snapped up.



AGREE. That stove would of been history around here so don't think about it too long.


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## tonyd

Ill take it and Ill pay the shipping, And give you a hundred bucks


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## alternativeheat

wmarazita said:


> I am in the market to buy a pellet stove and found a Harman Accentra stove for sale locally. It is used and I don't have much info about it yet except that it is "in good working order and cosmetically in very good shape" according to the seller. I have attached a photo of the stove.
> 
> I am looking to get some advice on a fair price for the stove. Also, is this a good quality stove? And, what sorts of things should I be looking out for when I go inspect the stove?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Bill
> 
> View attachment 125505


Accentas put out about 40000 btu, is that in line with your needs ? How large is your house in sq ft. ? IE is the stove a match for your house ? Assuming that and what others have asked, then bu it yes.


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## Dougsey

wmarazita said:


> They said they were negotiable, but wanted to get around $1000. for it.
> 
> Thanks


 

Buy it!


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## wmarazita

Dougsey said:


> Buy it!


Well, unfortunately, the seller will not return any emails. I will keep looking.

Thanks!


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## wmarazita

wmarazita said:


> Well, unfortunately, the seller will not return any emails. I will keep looking.
> 
> Thanks!


Ok, the seller called me. I went and looked at the stove and I bought it! I'm the proud new owner of a used Harman Accentra pellet stove. I got about 12' of pipe, a tin full of pellets, and some other accoutrement. I'm very excited! But, I think I will need some help. Does anybody know some place on the Internet I can find some help? HA!

In looking at the stove, it appears to need a good cleaning, but otherwise it seems to be in very good condition. I will take some good pictures as soon as I can get it out of my truck (darn this thing is heavy!) I will need some guidance from you all in the next few weeks in order to get it cleaned and installed and in tip top condition. Thanks in advance!

Bill

p.s. Please notice my new signature line!


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## P38X2

Nice! Congrats. Looking forward to seeing it installed.

Don't drop it!


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## mik_kane

Read this  https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/how-your-harman-works-what-your-manual-doesnt-tell-you.91030/

And when you are cleaning the stove do this    *Cleaning tip* - During your periodic cleaning, turn the knob to "test" while you clean the firebox to evacuate the ash out the chimney vs. into your room.





Have fun and good luck with it


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## Bioburner

Couple of hours doing a complete cleaning getting the fines box, room air fan off and properly clean and tending to anything that moves will make the used stove buy hopefully a happy one. Touch of antiseize grease on hinge pins and exhaust fan plate latch to help keep things smooth and operational for a long time. Do the dollar bill test on gaskets and if in doubt replace as gasket material and a drill driven wire brush is around $20. Easier to do it now when out of the home and in the shop. Good luck. Hey what am I saying, you got a Harman on the cheap.


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## Dougsey

man, what a deal!  Those go for $2500 used around here.


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## Ctcarl

Congrats


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## iceguy4

Your gonna LOVE it


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## Defiant

Nice grab, at that price you are going to love it.


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## wmarazita

Ok, here are some photos of the stove and extras after I got everything out of the truck and into the garage. It appears to be pretty dirty. I will read through the link that was posted above before I start taking anything apart. But, I am assuming a shop vac is a good start point for big stuff that is in the stove? Also, is there a "best" method for cleaning the cast iron? It appears to have some drywall powder on it, and some dirt and grime.


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## Bioburner

This works good on black stoves


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## Defiant

Looks like you have a winner, take the 2 back side plates off and focus on that area while you have it in an easy position to clean


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## wmarazita

Bioburner said:


> This works good on black stoves


Excellent!! Thank you


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## wmarazita

Defiant said:


> Looks like you have a winner, take the 2 back side plates off and focus on that area while you have it in an easy position to clean


Well, I just watched the two videos above. Very informative and appears easy. I will get to work and see how I do. 

Thanks so far!
Bill


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## mik_kane

If you can use the vent pipe that brings down the price of the stove about $200. Nice score


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## Bridgeman

Why do you need a pellet stove in so. California ? I was there at Christmas and it was 50s at night and 80s during the day. I was sleeping with the window open. Keep in mind this thing puts out a theoretical 40,000 btu and runs better the harder it works. It is 26F in so. NH this morning my Accentra is running at 20% capacity. They also burn much cleaner the harder it works. Still a great deal. It would have been $2000 plus in this market. Is there a supply of pellets available locally?


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## wmarazita

Bridgeman said:


> Why do you need a pellet stove in so. California ? I was there at Christmas and it was 50s at night and 80s during the day. I was sleeping with the window open. Keep in mind this thing puts out a theoretical 40,000 btu and runs better the harder it works. It is 26F in so. NH this morning my Accentra is running at 20% capacity. They also burn much cleaner the harder it works. Still a great deal. It would have been $2000 plus in this market. Is there a supply of pellets available locally?


The pellet stove is for a cabin which is at 5500 feet. We already have a wood stove in the cabin (a huge Englander 30) that heats part of the home very well. But, the lower floor gets VERY chilly. This weekend it was 22f outside when we woke up. I believe the stove will be a little much for our needs, but I couldn't pass it up.

I am going to clean it tomorrow and then try to fire it up in the garage. There is NO venting attached at this point. Is it OK to burn it that way to test and make sure it all works? I will obviously have the large garage door open when I fire it up.

Bill


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## Bioburner

No issue at all. It is after all a pressure vent system. Stove will moderate that cabin nicely.


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## Bridgeman

Not a good idea in the house door or no door.  Move it ten feet away, put on a few feet of pipe and fire that baby up! Do they sell pellets locally?


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## wmarazita

Bridgeman said:


> Not a good idea in the house door or no door.  Move it ten feet away, put on a few feet of pipe and fire that baby up! Do they sell pellets locally?



Yes, no problem getting pellets around here.

Ok, I just finished cleaning for the first time. Here are some pictures of what I took apart and how it looks after the initial cleaning. Is this what it should look like when it is clean? Did I forget anything?

Thanks!

Bill


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## Bioburner

Make sure you get the fines box cover on snug. Looks good except its not lit.


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## Defiant

Schweeeeettt!!


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## wmarazita

Well, nobody was here to see it, but I captured the moment with photography. I just had a test fire in the stove. As you can see, I stuffed a piece of pipe on the exhaust and pointed it out the door of the garage. The self ignitor worked perfectly (took about 5 minutes to start a fire), the feed motor worked fine, and the combustion blower was working great. I let it run for a few minutes, and then turned it to "off". I didn't leave it on long enough for the distribution blower to turn on, I guess. I didn't realize this until after it was shutting down. Does this blower turn on by itself after the stove heats up a bit?

Everything shut down after about 45 minutes. So far so good!

I do have some questions though.....I will make a short list and post them in a little bit.


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## Defiant

wmarazita said:


> Does this blower turn on by itself after the stove heats up a bit?


Yes


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## P38X2

Nice! 

I like the straight pipe


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## wmarazita

P38X2 said:


> Nice!
> 
> I like the straight pipe



Yeah, I'm sure the inspector would love the pipe being supported by a cardboard box!

Ok, here are a few questions if anyone can weigh in:

1. There is a small toggle switch behind the control door that toggles between "hi" and "low". I can't seem to find any mention of this in the manual I have. What does it do? (Pictures 1 and 2)

2. I am possibly wanting to order the "leg set" for this stove. Anyone have a good lead on somewhere I can get these mail order? I have looked on-line and am not having too much luck. (Picture 3)

3. The final location of the stove will be on a hearth that is already constructed with a wall thimble that is already in place that fits a 3" pipe. The installation will be basically like the one in Picture 4, except the vertical run will not be near that long. The installation looks to be straight forward, but I am unclear as to how I get a piece of pipe that is of the exact length to fit between the two 90 degree joints. Is there a telescopic pipe section that fits here? Best place to purchase pipe and fittings?

4. I'm not sure what is involved with sweeping the pipe each season, but I am wondering if there is anything that I can do now during my installation that will simplify the sweeping of the pipe later? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks so much for all of the help.

Bill


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## P38X2

I THINK the switch is a hi/low setting for the fan. You'll still have control of the speeds of each mode with the knob.

No idea where to get the leg set other than a Harman dealer. I like it though.

You can get an adjustable section of pipe. I think most venting companies make them.


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## Ctcarl

Congrats looking good


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## Bioburner

P38X2 said:


> Nice!
> 
> I like the straight pipe


Would have been great to have forced a over fire and had fire coming out. Just joking, photoshop time, Accentra with afterburner. Got to get out. To much time indoors with this cold weather.


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## Lake Girl

Congrats on the new stove!  You get the idea of pics or it never happened  Throw in a pic of the view along with the install please!

A point to consider in the cabin at 5500 elevation, you have to keep your pipe EVL at 7 or adapt to 4" pipe.  CO detector and surge protection for it's new home and consider an outside air kit (OAK).


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## wmarazita

Lake Girl said:


> Congrats on the new stove!  You get the idea of pics or it never happened  Throw in a pic of the view along with the install please!
> 
> A point to consider in the cabin at 5500 elevation, you have to keep your pipe EVL at 7 or adapt to 4" pipe.  CO detector and surge protection for it's new home and consider an outside air kit (OAK).



I will definitely send a pic of the install when it is complete, but for now I need some help with the install.

I understand the OAK. I was going to try it without the OAK at first and then add later, if really necessary.

I don't understand "keep your pipe EVL at 7 or adapt to 4" pipe". Could someone help with what that means?

Also, I am still hoping to get some more input on the 4 questions above. Maybe I should start a new thread with a more descriptive heading?


Thanks!
Bill


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## P38X2

Bill, did you get the owners manual with that stove? If not, I recommend you at least download one from the Harman website. Even better, print it out. It will help tremendously with a lot of things, including specific installation questions you will have.


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## P38X2

http://www.harmanstoves.com/Owner-Resources/Install-and-Owners-Manuals.aspx


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## wmarazita

P38X2 said:


> Bill, did you get the owners manual with that stove? If not, I recommend you at least download one from the Harman website. Even better, print it out. It will help tremendously with a lot of things, including specific installation questions you will have.



Hello P38X2,

Yes, I downloaded the current manual. It is VERY helpful. In fact, that is where this picture came from for the install. It should be very straight forward since the hearth is present, the wall thimble is in place, electricity is there, etc.

Maybe I'm not looking in the right place, but I can't seem to find a telescoping 3" pipe section that will between my two elbows (maybe someone could point me to a good company that would sell such an item.) Next, how in the heck does one sweep the pipe assembly once it is all fitted together and then sealed with silicone? I'm thinking now would be the best time to design an easily cleanable system. Maybe I am over thinking it all.

Thanks!


Bill


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## P38X2

Are you planning to use any of the venting that came with the stove? If so, you need to stay with that brand.

Does your manual give specs on vent length, EVL, etc?


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## P38X2

Also, keeping the venting clean is quite easy If you have a set of rods, a vent brush and a cordless drill. You'll probably want to install a clean out T at the bottom of your vertical rise.


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## wmarazita

P38X2 said:


> Are you planning to use any of the venting that came with the stove? If so, you need to stay with that brand.
> 
> Does your manual give specs on vent length, EVL, etc?



I don't think the venting that came with the stove can be used. It is all too long (unless it can be cut to size). The manual says "3" pipe up to 15' then increase to 4" pipe" "No horizontal runs longer than 48"  The manual is silent on a high altitude conversion of these numbers. I just now learned what EVL stands for (as clipped below). Seems like I might need to go to 4" pipe.

Bill

This is not from the Accentra manual. It is clipped from another website.


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## P38X2

Here are a couple sources for Duravent brand adjustable pipe sections. One is for a 3" inch, and the other is 4". Duravent is quite common, but is also generally known for being leaky. It can be sealed with silicone, but a leak can be a pain to track down sometimes.

http://m.lowes.com/pd_62705-76845-AC-3012A_0__?productId=3134813

http://m.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent-4...ouble-Wall-Chimney-Stove-Pipe-3112A/100194235


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## P38X2

Is the EVL info you clipped for a Harman stove? How far is it from your stove exhaust to your thimble hole?


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## Lake Girl

http://www.hearthnhome.com/downloads/installManuals/Accentra.pdf
For some of the models, they have step-by-step cleaning videos and print instructions on the main page.

If you are at higher elevations, atmospheric pressure is increased and will restrict exhaust more.  If you are over 3,000 elevation, they recommend you keep EVL (Equivalent Vertical Length) to 7 if using 3" pipe (over 7, 4" pipe recommended).  This is calculated by 90 elbows/cleanouts = 5', 45 elbows = 3, horizontal 1' =  1', vertical 1' = .5'  You mentioned 2-90s that equals 10 EVL already.

Just saw you got it figured out....


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## wmarazita

P38X2 said:


> Here are a couple sources for Duravent brand adjustable pipe sections. One is for a 3" inch, and the other is 4". Duravent is quite common, but is also generally known for being leaky. It can be sealed with silicone, but a leak can be a pain to track down sometimes.
> 
> http://m.lowes.com/pd_62705-76845-AC-3012A_0__?productId=3134813
> 
> http://m.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent-4...ouble-Wall-Chimney-Stove-Pipe-3112A/100194235




Hmmmm. Leaky doesn't sound good. What would be the brand that would be known for "NOT being leaky?"

My vent system would be a 90 degree (or Tee) right out the back, vertical rise of about 2 feet, then a 90 degree, then about 2 feet horizontal through the wall thimble, and then terminate just outside the wall. At 5500 feet, would you recommend 3" or 4" pipe?

Thanks!


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## wmarazita

P38X2 said:


> Is the EVL info you clipped for a Harman stove? How far is it from your stove exhaust to your thimble hole?


No it is off of an unrelated website (just so I knew what EVL stands for!) I'm still learning all of the codes!


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## wmarazita

Lake Girl said:


> http://www.hearthnhome.com/downloads/installManuals/Accentra.pdf
> For some of the models, they have step-by-step cleaning videos and print instructions on the main page.
> 
> If you are at higher elevations, atmospheric pressure is increased and will restrict exhaust more.  If you are over 3,000 elevation, they recommend you keep EVL (Equivalent Vertical Length) to 7 if using 3" pipe (over 7, 4" pipe recommended).  This is calculated by 90 elbows/cleanouts = 5', 45 elbows = 3, horizontal 1' =  1', vertical 1' = .5'  You mentioned 2-90s that equals 10 EVL already.
> 
> Just saw you got it figured out....


Sounds like 4" for sure then.


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## P38X2

Yeah, better safe than sorry. Go with the 4"

Selkirk is a decent brand. I have Metal-Fab brand on my P68 and have had good luck with it. My P38 has Duravent and it required a lot of silicone.

There's no guarantee any manufacturers pipe won't leak, especially articulating sections such as elbows. If you have silicone and/or tape, you'll be all set.

I'm sure you've read all about OAK's and their benefits. If you're on the fence about doing it, now is a good time to figure out what you want, as you'll be replacing your thimble. I strongly recommend using one.


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## Lake Girl

Selkirk also have the venting with the OAK integrated http://www.selkirkcorp.com/Selkirk/Product.aspx?id=7428

If you are changing the thimble to accommodate a 4", you might as well check this out and try to sell the pellet vent that came with the stove on craigs list.

Edit:  The other option would be to drop off the old venting to a Habitat for Humanity Restore ... what I do with my extras or leftovers from upgrades


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## wmarazita

Lake Girl said:


> Selkirk also have the venting with the OAK integrated http://www.selkirkcorp.com/Selkirk/Product.aspx?id=7428
> 
> If you are changing the thimble to accommodate a 4", you might as well check this out and try to sell the pellet vent that came with the stove on craigs list.
> 
> Edit:  The other option would be to drop off the old venting to a Habitat for Humanity Restore ... what I do with my extras or leftovers from upgrades



Probably not much market for this stove pipe here. Not too too many pellet stoves around. HHR is a great idea though!


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## wmarazita

P38X2 said:


> Yeah, better safe than sorry. Go with the 4"
> 
> Selkirk is a decent brand. I have Metal-Fab brand on my P68 and have had good luck with it. My P38 has Duravent and it required a lot of silicone.
> 
> There's no guarantee any manufacturers pipe won't leak, especially articulating sections such as elbows. If you have silicone and/or tape, you'll be all set.
> 
> I'm sure you've read all about OAK's and their benefits. If you're on the fence about doing it, now is a good time to figure out what you want, as you'll be replacing your thimble. I strongly recommend using one.



Ok, thanks for all of the thoughts. I am thinking the best install for me would be this:

1. Re-brick the wall opening where the current thimble goes through the wall and close off that hole.
2. Cut a new hole in the brick wall directly behind the stove and exit the vent and OAK directly out of the stove through the wall (as in the picture). This way all of the 90 degree joints will be outside the house in the event of leaks.
3. Place a "Tee" just outside the house for easy cleanout.
4. Use new 4" Selkirk pipe for venting, Tee, straight pipe and elbow.
5. Install OAK through multipurpose thimble.

Does this sound like a good plan?

Thanks!
Bill


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## P38X2

If you don't mind patching your wall, and you have enough clearance to ground outside, you can use your 3" pipe and just go straight out with it. Your EVL will be easily met and you'll save a bunch of $$$ on venting. The straight out install is very common. The Harman thimble you have shown is a very nice unit. There are less expensive options but that one is pretty slick. 

How are your brick patching skills?


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## wmarazita

P38X2 said:


> If you don't mind patching your wall, and you have enough clearance to ground outside, you can use your 3" pipe and just go straight out with it. Your EVL will be easily met and you'll save a bunch of $$$ on venting. The straight out install is very common. The Harman thimble you have shown is a very nice unit. There are less expensive options but that one is pretty slick.
> 
> How are your brick patching skills?


Oh, that is a good idea! I would need 12" clearance from grade, which I think I would make, but will have to check. Wouldn't the OAK be too close to the exhaust though?

Brick shouldn't be too hard to patch.


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## wmarazita

wmarazita said:


> Oh, that is a good idea! I would need 12" clearance from grade, which I think I would make, but will have to check. Wouldn't the OAK be too close to the exhaust though?
> 
> Brick shouldn't be too hard to patch.



Here are some photos of what I am dealing with. The pellet stove in the photo is no longer there. Soon, the Accentra will sit there!


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## P38X2

12" seems a bit low, but if that's what the manual states, you'll be OK. However, you'll need to be absolutely positive there are no combustibles in the vicinity of the vent, particularly on the ground (mulch, etc.) Also, if you get a lot of snow there, you do not want the vent/intake to get buried.

This setup eliminates the need for a clean out T and will make vent cleaning a piece of cake.

The proximity of the OAK intake to the vent is fine. You'll want about 2' of vent extending beyond the outside face of the thimble.

ETA- You'll also want to make sure you don't end up with a joint in the thimble. I'm not sure if that's code or not, but I wouldn't be comfortable with it in my house.


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## P38X2

Nice, looks cozy. It'll look better when the new stove is installed


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## wmarazita

P38X2 said:


> 12" seems a bit low, but if that's what the manual states, you'll be OK. However, you'll need to be absolutely positive there are no combustibles in the vicinity of the vent, particularly on the ground (mulch, etc.) Also, if you get a lot of snow there, you do not want the vent/intake to get buried.
> 
> This setup eliminates the need for a clean out T and will make vent cleaning a piece of cake.
> 
> The proximity of the OAK intake to the vent is fine. You'll want about 2' of vent extending beyond the outside face of the thimble.
> 
> ETA- You'll also want to make sure you don't end up with a joint in the thimble. I'm not sure if that's code or not, but I wouldn't be comfortable with it in my house.



Judging from memory and these photos, I would say that the vent pipe would be about 3' above ground level if I extended directly out the back. There IS mulch on the ground directly under the vent and also a tree that is fairly close. I will have to take better measurements when I get up there. There is also a water pipe in the wall somewhere near this new thimble location. I will have to remove a piece of the house siding and take a look at the entire project. That won't take place till Spring, unfortunately! Snow won't be an issue. We don't get that much in this area of this outlet. There may be tighter restrictions on clearances in my area....it is in the a national forest.  More to think about......!


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## Bioburner

Can replace mulch with rock of some sort. Surprised with the fire danger etc that you have wood mulch anyway. Just the firefighter in me I guess.


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## P38X2

I agree with Bioburner. Replacing an area of mulch with crushed stone would be a piece of cake. The tree is also an easy fix with a shovel or saw. 3' is plenty of clearance from the ground.

Did you determine the manufacturer of your vent that came with the stove? You'll need a termination cap for a horizontal install if it didn't come with one. Also, make sure you have an appliance adapter to go between the stoves exhaust and the beginning of your venting. You probably already have one. It'll be around 4" long.


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## wmarazita

Bioburner said:


> Can replace mulch with rock of some sort.
> 
> Surprised with the fire danger etc that you have wood mulch anyway. Just the firefighter in me I guess.



Rock: YES! I can definitely replace with rock. Sometimes the obvious eludes me!

Mulch danger: Very good point. They give it away in my location so a lot of people have it around to keep down weeds, etc. I will take your advice though and remove as much as possible away from house.


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## wmarazita

P38X2 said:


> I agree with Bioburner. Replacing an area of mulch with crushed stone would be a piece of cake. The tree is also an easy fix with a shovel or saw. 3' is plenty of clearance from the ground.
> 
> Did you determine the manufacturer of your vent that came with the stove? You'll need a termination cap for a horizontal install if it didn't come with one. Also, make sure you have an appliance adapter to go between the stoves exhaust and the beginning of your venting. You probably already have one. It'll be around 4" long.



Mulch out. Rock in. Easy peasy.
Tree out.... not so easy peasy. I will take a look at it when I am up there. I'm sure I can work around that.

Venting: I don't see an appliance adapter. I will need one of those. I also don't see a termination cap that would work. The one that came with the used venting appears to be for a vertical install, maybe? There is something on the wall outside right now that terminates where the existing vent is (was). Maybe I can use it. I will get better pictures. As far as the brand of pipe.....I looked and couldn't find any manufacturer's witness marks indicating anything to me. Can someone tell from the photos?

Thanks for the 66 answers/questions so far!

Bill


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## P38X2

I suppose there's a good chance that's Duravent, as it's fairly popular and commonly found in BB stores. Looks identical to a section of Duravent I have here, but then again, I'm just going by your pic, and PV generally looks quite similar.

Can you take a section of yours to HD or Lowes, or whoever sells it in your area? If it looks the same and locks together positively, without any slop or funkiness, it's probably Duravent.

You could always just replace it altogether and get the appliance adapter and term cap and have peace of mind.


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## wmarazita

P38X2 said:


> I suppose there's a good chance that's Duravent, as it's fairly popular and commonly found in BB stores. Looks identical to a section of Duravent I have here, but then again, I'm just going by your pic, and PV generally looks quite similar.
> 
> Can you take a section of yours to HD or Lowes, or whoever sells it in your area? If it looks the same and locks together positively, without any slop or funkiness, it's probably Duravent.
> 
> You could always just replace it altogether and get the appliance adapter and term cap and have peace of mind.



I think I need a "special" adapter for the Harman.....is that right? The manual calls for this due to Harman's irregular size. Maybe I will order and see if it snaps together with what I have already. If it does fit the pipe I have, can I cut the pipe to length at the termination point? or does the the pipe have to connect to some type of termination cap with a factory end?


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## Mt Bob

Lake Girl said:


> http://www.hearthnhome.com/downloads/installManuals/Accentra.pdf
> For some of the models, they have step-by-step cleaning videos and print instructions on the main page.
> 
> If you are at higher elevations, atmospheric pressure is increased and will restrict exhaust more.  If you are over 3,000 elevation, they recommend you keep EVL (Equivalent Vertical Length) to 7 if using 3" pipe (over 7, 4" pipe recommended).  This is calculated by 90 elbows/cleanouts = 5', 45 elbows = 3, horizontal 1' =  1', vertical 1' = .5'  You mentioned 2-90s that equals 10 EVL already.
> 
> Just saw you got it figured out....


 Atmospheric pressure goes down with altitude,and thinner air is easier to move,but less dense,combustion needs more volumn.


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## P38X2

I wouldn't mess around cutting, or otherwise trying to rig anything up. You do not want fire or smoke in your house.

I wouldn't order anything until you're sure of the brand of your pipe. Also, I noticed what I though was red RTV in the seams of what you have. If that's in there, and you need to separate the sections, it could be a pain. You'll need a couple strap wrenches and having a helper would be nice.


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## wmarazita

P38X2 said:


> I wouldn't mess around cutting, or otherwise trying to rig anything up. You do not want fire or smoke in your house.
> 
> I wouldn't order anything until you're sure of the brand of your pipe. Also, I noticed what I though was red RTV in the seams of what you have. If that's in there, and you need to separate the sections, it could be a pain. You'll need a couple strap wrenches and having a helper would be nice.



Well, if I can't cut the pipe, then I don't think I can use it with this install idea. It is just too long. I will just buy the adapter and a 2' piece of pipe to attach to it and go straight out with it (ideally). How do I terminate outside to protect from weather, birds, etc?


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## P38X2

Do you know the approx dimension of the brick, inside to out? I know the rear clearance of the stove is 2.25", but I'm not familiar with the mechanics on the back. If you needed to access anything back there, you'll want room to work and not have to pull the stove out every time. Perhaps you could start a thread, or do a search, for what rear clearances Accentra owners typically use and how much room is an "adequate" amount to have back there.

I looked more closely at your vent pix and can see those are really long sections. Without knowing your intended rear clearance, and how thick that brick wall is, it's tough to suggest any venting configurations. I'm thinking an appliance adapter, 36" section of pipe and a termination cap, would put you in good shape. If you opt to go with new stuff, I wouldn't hesitate to use Duravent, or whatever your BB store sells, reason being you'll have minimal joints and won't have to worry about notoriously leaky elbows. You should be able to get those 3 pieces for around $100. Also, gab some high temp silicone, high temp vent tape, and a couple stainless 1" self tapping sheet metal screws (for securing the adapter to the stove).

Seems like you're settling in on your venting choice. Looking forward to future updates.


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## wmarazita

P38X2 said:


> Do you know the approx dimension of the brick, inside to out? I know the rear clearance of the stove is 2.25", but I'm not familiar with the mechanics on the back. If you needed to access anything back there, you'll want room to work and not have to pull the stove out every time. Perhaps you could start a thread, or do a search, for what rear clearances Accentra owners typically use and how much room is an "adequate" amount to have back there.
> 
> I looked more closely at your vent pix and can see those are really long sections. Without knowing your intended rear clearance, and how thick that brick wall is, it's tough to suggest any venting configurations. I'm thinking an appliance adapter, 36" section of pipe and a termination cap, would put you in good shape. If you opt to go with new stuff, I wouldn't hesitate to use Duravent, or whatever your BB store sells, reason being you'll have minimal joints and won't have to worry about notoriously leaky elbows. You should be able to get those 3 pieces for around $100. Also, gab some high temp silicone, high temp vent tape, and a couple stainless 1" self tapping sheet metal screws (for securing the adapter to the stove).
> 
> Seems like you're settling in on your venting choice. Looking forward to future updates.



Yeah, I think I am really close. The last pieces of the puzzle I won't be able to put together for a couple weeks when I can get to the home. I will take off the plywood exterior siding and get a good look into the wall and see what surprises might be there. I'll take pictures and then get back with a post for final options.

Good idea on the maintenance clearances. I just cleaned it completely so I know what I need to get to. I think I can figure out a good distance and then work the horizontal pipe section length from there.

Total wall thickness is probably about 10 inches (3.5" brick, 2x6 stud, 3/4" siding).

Thanks again for all of the help. I really appreciate it.

Bill


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## Lake Girl

Appliance adapter may still be attached to the back of the Accentra.  For our termination cap, we have a "turbo" cap which is conical in shape and has an interior screen that keeps out most critters.  You may want to think about a solid cap for when you are not using the stove - especially if your away for periods of time in cold weather.  Amazing what people have found that had crawled in the venting!

We have Biovent - has the silicone gasket between sections and only requires 3 screws on joints.  A bit more expensive but no hassles to assemble/disassemble.  Gaskets are replaceable.  http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/764374/products/Bio-Vent-Wall-Vent-Kit.html?d_id=50465  Not sure if they carry an adapter for Harman...



bob bare said:


> Atmospheric pressure goes down with altitude,and thinner air is easier to move,but less denseT,combustion needs more volumn.


Too many years living with a commercial diver where the pressure is always increased  Is it Boyle's law, pressure and volume inversely related?


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## Mt Bob

Lake Girl said:


> Appliance adapter may still be attached to the back of the Accentra.  For our termination cap, we have a "turbo" cap which is conical in shape and has an interior screen that keeps out most critters.  You may want to think about a solid cap for when you are not using the stove - especially if your away for periods of time in cold weather.  Amazing what people have found that had crawled in the venting!
> 
> We have Biovent - has the silicone gasket between sections and only requires 3 screws on joints.  A bit more expensive but no hassles to assemble/disassemble.  Gaskets are replaceable.  http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/764374/products/Bio-Vent-Wall-Vent-Kit.html?d_id=50465  Not sure if they carry an adapter for Harman...
> 
> 
> Too many years living with a commercial diver where the pressure is always increased  Is it Boyle's law, pressure and volume inversely related?


 HI,don't really know boyle's law,but less pressure at higher alt.,same as high pressure for divers and mine workers.


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## Lake Girl

Wikipedia: A modern statement of Boyle's law is:
The absolute pressure exerted by a given mass of an ideal gas is inversely proportional to the volume it occupies if the temperature and amount of gas remain unchanged within a closed system.

It explains the bends that divers and miners can get ... and combustion changes at high altitudes!


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## P38X2

I also have turbo caps on both my stoves, though I had to mod the one on the Duravent to make it fit. No screens though. Bad news during burn season IMO. The cap for the off season is a good idea. You can find something at a hardware store that'll work, rather than getting a dedicated cap... which will prob be rather pricy for what it is.


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## Mt Bob

co


Lake Girl said:


> Wikipedia: A modern statement of Boyle's law is:
> The absolute pressure exerted by a given mass of an ideal gas is inversely proportional to the volume it occupies if the temperature and amount of gas remain unchanged within a closed system.
> 
> It explains the bends that divers and miners can get ... and combustion changes at high altitudes!


 cool stuff.Atmosphere is not an ideal gas,is not a closed system,temp lowers going up,untill you reach a median,then raises if facing heat source(sun).Air has same percentage of o2 anywhere,just spread out higher up,combustion needs same o2 anywhere,which is why the develpoment of the turbocharger invention allowed planes to fly at higher altitudes.We could have fun with this all day!


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## wmarazita

Boy, I hadn't expected so much extra "useful" information!  Takes me right back to college physics class and SCUBA diving as a wee 20 something!

Tell me what you all think of this logic: Even though I won't necessarily need a 4" vent with my planned install, is there any harm in moving to the bigger size anyways? My thought is that if I am buying new pipe, a new thimble, and doing some reworking of the area anyways, why not just use a 4" thimble and then buy all 4" pipe? The cost can't possibly be that much more than the 3" AND it gives me the option later of putting in a vertical rise outside of the cabin if necessary for any reason in the future. I am not concerned about getting the "cheapest" install at all. I really want the "best" install for the situation.

Thanks folks!
Bill


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## Mt Bob

No,go bigger.Less and easier cleaning.


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## Mt Bob

bob bare said:


> No,go bigger.Less and easier cleaning.


 I meant no it will not hurt,sorry.


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## P38X2

Good thinking, Bill.


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## wmarazita

Ok, great. I think I shall proceed on this path until something (in the wall or otherwise) gets in my way.


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## P38X2

wmarazita said:


> Ok, great. I think I shall proceed on this path until something (in the wall or otherwise) gets in my way.


Like the tree?


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