# Pulp Wood Hook



## henfruit (Oct 28, 2008)

any one use a pulp wood hook when working the wood pile?


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## Rick Stanley (Oct 28, 2008)

I cut, split and stack 4 ft and saw to length when I put it in. So, yes, I use a hook.


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## Eric Johnson (Oct 28, 2008)

In the winter, it's a good way to keep your hands out of the snow. You can buy specialized scissors-like double hooks that work even better.


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## henfruit (Oct 28, 2008)

hi ricks, dont they work slick to move wood with. what part of maine are you from? i am just over the border from portor.


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## Sealcove (Oct 28, 2008)

A pulp hook is an essential tool for efficiently moving wood.  It is also a back saver.


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## Rick Stanley (Oct 28, 2008)

henfruit said:
			
		

> hi ricks, dont they work slick to move wood with. what part of maine are you from? i am just over the border from portor.



I'm in Wells, Hen. I grew up in Parsonsfield, just over the line from you. Used a pulp hook a lot in the past. Back in the 4 ft. pulp days. Got  the bulging discs to prove it.


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## Rick Stanley (Oct 28, 2008)

Eric Johnson said:
			
		

> In the winter, it's a good way to keep your hands out of the snow. You can buy specialized scissors-like double hooks that work even better.



Found this. Looks less likely to slip, but maybe harder to un-hook?? Do they work ok, Eric?


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## henfruit (Oct 28, 2008)

hey ricks parsons field is on the back side of effingham where i live. iwas in wells last week and ate at the steak house on rte 1. the old herneated disks yes at l4 and l5 know the pain well. thank god all has been well with them for a while. just need to know your limit on what you can do and when to quit.


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## Rick Stanley (Oct 28, 2008)

Yes, you've got that right. L4 and L5. Knowing when to quit is real tricky, but I'm getting better at it. You've gotta quit BEFORE it hurts.


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## kevin fitzsimmons (Oct 28, 2008)

Pulp hook and peavey are real labour savers.  Using the peavey to roll large logs also saves your chain.


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## NHFarmer (Oct 28, 2008)

I have been there with the back.I also handle my wood 4' split.The pulp hook is the only way to go


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## barneshilary (Oct 28, 2008)

Won't cut wood without one, it save me from bending over so far.


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## henfruit (Oct 28, 2008)

it seems all the folks here in the notheast use them.i have picaroon also but like the hook the best. is that your tractorand winch in the picture?


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## NHFarmer (Oct 29, 2008)

Yes,I had a JD950 it worked out real nice in the woods,but it was a tad small for my needs.I traded up to a 6200 65hp at the pto,I still use my Farmi winch.It will twitch out a decent amount of wood.


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## Rick Stanley (Oct 29, 2008)

I have a large woodlot here and have been able to get out what I need around field edges and easy places with a Honda compact 4X4 tractor and a IH 484 2 wheel drive, with no winch. I do have some pine big enough to harvest, lots of thinning to do and along with Garn food, I'd like to sell some firewood. So, I'd really like to buy a smallish skidder. Know of any deals?


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## DaveBP (Oct 29, 2008)

> Found this. Looks less likely to slip, but maybe harder to un-hook?? Do they work ok, Eric?



I never use tongs on wood already bucked to splitting length. I use mine for dragging out limbed-off poles that are too small to bother putting the winch cable on. Though not heavy, this stuff is hard on the wrist trying to wrap your hands around elephant trunk style. I try to cut out the poles first that are going to get hit with a bigger tree felled on them. I can whip out the tongs from their quick-draw holster and without reaching down so far snag a thirty pound pole and walk it back up to the tractor/winch with the chainsaw in the other hand in the same time it would take to go back for the winch cable and choke chain.
It does take a little push and twist of the wrist to unhook it but that's quickly learned.
Have you noticed that a lot of the ergonomic and safety equipment for small scale logging comes from socialized-medicine scandinavian countries?


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## Gooserider (Nov 6, 2008)

I use them often on medium to largish rounds...  I find they don't work as well on splits and small rounds as the target moves to much when you try to sink the hook.  I find just grabbing them by hand works about as well.  The trick is to have a pair, I'd find having just one to be far less effective.  However for medium or large rounds they are great - in the 10-12" size that you need two hands to carry one round, I can sink a hook into each one of two rounds and then carry them like a pair of suitcases - get double the load per trip...  On the bigger rounds I sink one hook into each end and use them as grab handles...  More effective grip and because they extend your reach, you don't have to bend over as far, easier on the back...

Very much worth it...

Gooserider


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## mtarbert (Nov 6, 2008)

I have been using a hookaroon for almost a year. They are Great. Picks up logs to be split without bending over and when you have someone to help with the splitting at least havf the round stays on the splittng block. They are great for off loading splits from a truck.


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## chad3 (Nov 7, 2008)

Father uses one hook and one hand.  He has had a hip replacement so his movement is a bit limited.  Has no issues using the hook for wood and can carry 2 (if he uses both) fairly good sized pieces per trip without bending over.
Chad


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## Spikem (Dec 13, 2008)

Are there suggested "models" of peaveys to get or are they all essentially the same?

I've been using a 4' pry bar and it's a bit of a pain - especially with 16' oak log lengths that isn't particularly straight.


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## Sealcove (Dec 13, 2008)

Sizing is pretty much as expected; longer arm equals more lifting power, but weight and awkwardness limits the desirable length.  42"-48" are probably the most common for solo log rolling, but a 60" can offer all kinds of persuasion.

Have a look at LogRite Tools for some examples (great tools BTW).  While you are there have a look at the hookaroons they make.  These are the ultimate tools for moving small rounds and splits.


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## LLigetfa (Dec 13, 2008)

I use a pulp hook mostly when handling 8 foot logs but I have also used it on very heavy bucked rounds to slide them in place under the splitter wedge wen running it vertical.  I also use a long iron bar to nudge logs.

As for a cant hook, I really need to get myself one.  My father had one when I was a kid and I used it lots then.  I've also seen a modified version that has a T leg on it to lift and hold the log off the ground.


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## Spikem (Dec 13, 2008)

[quote author="LLigetfa" date="1229150598"]I use a pulp hook mostly when handling 8 foot logs but I have also used it on very heavy bucked rounds to slide them in place under the splitter wedge wen running it vertical.  I also use a long iron bar to nudge logs.

*As for a cant hook, I really need to get myself one.  My father had one when I was a kid and I used it lots then.  I've also seen a modified version that has a T leg on it to lift and hold the log off the ground.[/*quote]

Isn't that a "timberjack"?  If there is a difference, what is it?


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## LLigetfa (Dec 13, 2008)

TimberJack is one brand.  
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15810





LogRite also has one.





LogRite also has a nifty two man tool for carrying wood.


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## Spikem (Dec 13, 2008)

This is more what I'm thinking when I think of a peavey - peavey


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## BJN644 (Dec 13, 2008)

As far as the pulp hooks go, the one I like best has a replaceable tip. It's much sharper and is great for handling splits because you can stick it in the wood in any position, with the grain or across. I'll never go back to the conventional style again. The pickaroon is also great, especially for unloading a pick up truck.

I bought both from Labonville.

Labonville


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## fyrwoodguy (Dec 13, 2008)

i cannot imagine going out to cut firewood,or doing any firewood detail with out my pulp hook.....no hook....no work! how simple.





the wooden handle one hanging with the orange ones is called a pickeroon.another type of wood hook.


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## LLigetfa (Dec 13, 2008)

The pickeroons I've seen have a long axe handle and the head has an eye similar to that of an axe.  I had a real nice one but it walked away.  Where I worked at one time, we had a blacksmith making them and he made them with an eye as long as what an axe has.  Despite them giving us shin guards, there were too many guys spearing themselves in the foot or shin and so they outlawed them, forcing us to use longer pike poles.

What they have in the stores around here use such a short eye that they always wiggle loose under heavy use.  Had one of those also and it too walked away.  If you want to keep your tools, you can't have kids or friends.


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## henfruit (Dec 13, 2008)

what do you mean by the eye on the pick aroon?


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## LLigetfa (Dec 13, 2008)

The hole through the head that the handle goes through.


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## fyrwoodguy (Dec 13, 2008)

LLigetfa said:
			
		

> The pickeroons I've seen have a long axe handle and the head has an eye similar to that of an axe.  I had a real nice one but it walked away.  Where I worked at one time, we had a blacksmith making them and he made them with an eye as long as what an axe has.  Despite them giving us shin guards, there were too many guys spearing themselves in the foot or shin and so they outlawed them, forcing us to use longer pike poles.
> 
> What they have in the stores around here use such a short eye that they always wiggle loose under heavy use.  Had one of those also and it too walked away.  If you want to keep your tools, you can't have kids or friends.



yes your right, i've lost all my pickeroon's except one in picture. kids/friends /thiefs


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## Gooserider (Dec 14, 2008)

What I find interesting is that the pulp-hooks have tips that are a very careful balance, sharp enough to go into a log and stick, but they don't seem to go into skin if you miss the log and whack yourself - but they do raise one heck of a knot - definitely a "Don't do that again" lesson  :red: 

I've also found (the hard way) that there seem to be two different weights on the replaceable tips - a standard duty, and a heavy duty - My friend that got me into the hooks has standard tips and the hooks I bought have the heavy duty tips - I have been told that the standard duty tips will break occasionally (and yes the shape of the tip DOES matter!) but I find they stick into the wood much better - less effort needed to sink the hook enough that the barb will pick up the round....  The other big thing to remember about wood hooks is to keep track of them around wheeled vehicles - running one over will probably ruin a tire far beyond any hope of repair...

Also a side note - a Peavy and a Cant Hook are two slightly different tools, though which one is better is mostly a matter of personal preference.  The Peavy has a spike point on the end, which I understand was used mostly in the days of floating logs to help pry jams apart, and when pushing / pulling logs.  The Cant Hook has a smooth end, with (usually) a spike on the side that matches up with the curved pivoting hook that both tools have.  It was supposedly designed more for use in rolling logs around on the ground...

My personal favorite is a "felling lever" which is a useful tool for making trees fall over, but also combines a mini-cant hook with a pry-bar that works well in chainsaw kerfs...  It's smaller and lighter than most of the standard cant hooks, but gives just enough oomph to be useful, while not being a pain to haul around.

Gooserider


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## Spikem (Dec 14, 2008)

Gooserider said:
			
		

> What I find interesting is that the pulp-hooks have tips that are a very careful balance, sharp enough to go into a log and stick, but they don't seem to go into skin if you miss the log and whack yourself - but they do raise one heck of a knot - definitely a "Don't do that again" lesson  :red:
> 
> I've also found (the hard way) that there seem to be two different weights on the replaceable tips - a standard duty, and a heavy duty - My friend that got me into the hooks has standard tips and the hooks I bought have the heavy duty tips - I have been told that the standard duty tips will break occasionally (and yes the shape of the tip DOES matter!) but I find they stick into the wood much better - less effort needed to sink the hook enough that the barb will pick up the round....  The other big thing to remember about wood hooks is to keep track of them around wheeled vehicles - running one over will probably ruin a tire far beyond any hope of repair...
> 
> ...



A question in regard to the difference - and use - of a peavey versus a cant hook.  Why would the cant hook be a better tool for the dry ground versus the peavey for the water?  (I know I need one or the other as the simple pry bar I've been using just doesn't cut it and I want to make the right decision.)

BTW, thanks for providing what is proving to be educational!


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## Gooserider (Dec 14, 2008)

Spikem said:
			
		

> Gooserider said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Glad to help out...

This is an interesting article on the two tools from Rural Heritage.  As it's pointed out, in modern useage, the tools are pretty much interchangable - both work and it's largely a matter of personal preference to choose between them.  

On land, some will argue that the Peavy is better because the spike end is easier to work between a log and an obstacle or into a pile of logs to lever with, others will say that the cant hook is better because the lack of a spike makes it possible to get a bite further under the log...  "You pays your penny and takes your chances..."  I've used both styles a little bit, and wouldn't say that I have a strong preference for one or the other.  I do note that the various "Timberjack" style units I've seen appear to be based on a cant-hook design.  

(I will say that I've used one of the timber jacks and think they're a waste of money - far faster to work the length of a log cutting 75% or so through it at each stove length, then rotate the log and work back to finish cutting the rounds.  With the timberjack I was having to reposition every cut or two, much more of a PITA)

On floating logs it was obvious that the Peavey had an advantage because you could use the spike to stab into and get a better bite on a log that you were trying to push or pull along, but stabbing a log on dry land usually doesn't make it move...

Gooserider


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## Woodrat (Dec 15, 2008)

Gooserider said:
			
		

> What I find interesting is that the pulp-hooks have tips that are a very careful balance, sharp enough to go into a log and stick, but they don't seem to go into skin if you miss the log and whack yourself - but they do raise one heck of a knot - definitely a "Don't do that again" lesson  :red:
> 
> I've also found (the hard way) that there seem to be two different weights on the replaceable tips - a standard duty, and a heavy duty - My friend that got me into the hooks has standard tips and the hooks I bought have the heavy duty tips - I have been told that the standard duty tips will break occasionally--  (and yes the shape of the tip DOES matter!) Gooserider



-      -After having a pulp hook I was using bounce off a frozen oak log and bury itself in my shinbone-- I was told by my saw& equipment supplier that there are "summer" & "winter" tips for the hooks, sure enough, the "winter" one is better at handling frozen wood that the other ( if you forget to change back in the warm weather, you'll find that the hook sinks too far into wood & tends to get stuck.

--Woodrat


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## Green Mtn Boy (Dec 18, 2008)

I use two...keeps my hands dry and also helps my back. They sometimes don't hold well it cold weather.


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