# Schrader Fireplace pedestal stove questions



## JJ84

I have a few questions about an older Schrader stove I just traded my monstrous Fisher stove for. I will say right off that yes, I am aware that the Schrader stoves are not EPA approved. This is for emergency heat/occasional use, and my budget will not allow a pricier, newer option right now. I had been using a Fisher Insert modified to work as a stand alone stove, and I feel this is a step up from that!

I have determined that this stove is smaller than the Prince/Princess models, but am unable to find information on it. It sits on a single pedestal, dimensions are approximately 23"W x 22"D x 30"H. it takes 6" stove pipe out the top. The trees depicted on the front only have three layers of branches, which is one of the few visual differences from the other models of similar shape.

Does anyone happen to know what this particular model is?
Does it require rope gasket on the doors, or does it seal similar to the Fisher stoves?
Can a modified baffle be installed, as with the Fisher insert?
Any input on clearance and such, or a link to the appropriate owners manual?

Any input, information, etc. is appreciated. A prior owner painted over any tags, so I figure this forum is my best bet, especially with the limited info Google gave me. My homeowners insurance doesn't care what's installed for supplemental wood heat, as long as the hearth extends 18" from the front of the stove. My small community has no restrictions, not sure about the state.


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## bholler

I dont know about the rest of it but your clearances will be 36" without a heat shield and 18" to the single wall pipe


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## wildwildwest

I saw your post and wanted to tell you we had one for many years and loved it!  Mine did not require door gaskets, not even a channel to put them in.

Did you get the screen with it?  It makes a great ambiance  Though we ran her hot and closed the caps down on frigid nights!  Just make sure you have dry wood, the wet stuff is hard to light and gives stinky smoke, and alot less heat.

If you do end up running hard and hot, back the caps off 1/4 turn, the heat can expand the stove and make them hard to open.  And test the caps before turning them, I used an oven mitt alot.

I heard Schrader was made in Colorado in the 1970's, I did not find any info on them either.

Fun stuff!!  Enjoy!!


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## bholler

Cement board and tile over wood is still considered a combustible wall and without the backer spaced off the framing 1" and vents top and bottom will give you no reduction in clearance


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## wildwildwest

bholler said:


> Cement board and tile over wood is still considered a combustible wall and without the backer spaced off the framing 1" and vents top and bottom will give you no reduction in clearance


I fixed that post


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## bholler

ok good lol


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## wildwildwest

And inspect the firebrick inside, we had to replace some missing/cracked ones.  

I am curious, is there a gap between your doors?  Or is that a camera illusion?  Our doors were  not sealed, but there was not a gap between them when closed.  If it is a gap I wonder if will send alot of heat straight out the chimney, maybe see if a welder can bend the arms?


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## JJ84

I will be replacing all of the fire brick, quite a few are cracked.

Yes there is a small gap top and bottom, i was going to ask about that. I noticed similar gaps on some online images of other Schrader stoves, so i wasn't sure if that was part of the design or not. It seems to me that the doors should meet completely, even with the lip on the left door that fits behind the right. the doors seem to line up fine otherwise.


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## wildwildwest

We had to get our handles bent to lock properly, I wonder if your hinges could be tweaked for the door gap? I wonder if its even worth it for your needs...

This thread has great information on clearances.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/i-need-a-clue-on-clearances-for-my-older-schrader-stove.68914/


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## begreen

You might try some lacquer thinner on the painted label to see if you ca remove the paint.  Nothing to lose if some fool painted over it.


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## SONOCATIVO

I myself was given a Shrader by a family friend whose Dad passed away, i have the ceiling box and currently trying to get the pipes to hook it all up to save on heating costs this winter. This stove is unusual, has a crank grate which attaches in place of the door that swings out to cook on, a screen attachment and more that i have never seen before. I also have all the fire bricks that came with it. Anyone know anything about this one? It is a temp bill saver as Im all electric here and going with a wood furnace next year hopefully.


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## wildwildwest

SONOCATIVO said:


> I myself was given a Shrader by a family friend whose Dad passed away, i have the ceiling box and currently trying to get the pipes to hook it all up to save on heating costs this winter. This stove is unusual, has a crank grate which attaches in place of the door that swings out to cook on, a screen attachment and more that i have never seen before. I also have all the fire bricks that came with it. Anyone know anything about this one? It is a temp bill saver as Im all electric here and going with a wood furnace next year hopefully.


I have not seen that model but it sounds awesome!  Like a deluxe model?  Ours was not the efficient kind, we used alot of wood, but it really helped our propane bill.  And it was wonderful to have really warm house when it was bad outside.  Also saved us hotel bills when the electricity was out for extended periods, as well as saved our water lines from freezing.  Enjoy!


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## SONOCATIVO

I myself have never seen such a thing either, I can see its not effecient at burning (creasote inside flaking off the top, not heavy, just a light film ) Ive had it a year as I was remodeling and used a barrel stove from a kit  ( thought I was gonna burn the place down with that thing...lol ) our friend gave us this stove and I am trying to find pipe cheap to hook it up, has the 8" pipe connection on top, luckily the box in the ceiling is for an 8" flue...


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## SONOCATIVO

Has anyone tried making an after burner on these? where you drill a hole and feed a pipe through at the top with tiny air holes so it pulls oxygen in at the top to re-burn the smoke/exhaust gasses from the wood? I have seen it done with older wood stoves, just an idea?


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## SONOCATIVO

wildwildwest said:


> I have not seen that model but it sounds awesome!  Like a deluxe model?  Ours was not the efficient kind, we used alot of wood, but it really helped our propane bill.  And it was wonderful to have really warm house when it was bad outside.  Also saved us hotel bills when the electricity was out for extended periods, as well as saved our water lines from freezing.  Enjoy!


I posted some pictures above with the attachments, adjustable grate and screen.


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## wildwildwest

SONOCATIVO said:


> I posted some pictures above with the attachments, adjustable grate and screen.


Sono,  I could light a rip roaring fire in there, but I'm afraid thats where my knowledge ends.  I ask questions here too lol.   Either way, I bet it will keep you warm cut your electricity bill.

I learned alot from using the universal google search box on the home page.  (top left tab here on my screen).  I put in different key words.

I would however like to see pics when you have it installed and warm


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## SONOCATIVO

wildwildwest said:


> Sono,  I could light a rip roaring fire in there, but I'm afraid thats where my knowledge ends.  I ask questions here too lol.   Either way, I bet it will keep you warm cut your electricity bill.
> 
> I learned alot from using the universal google search box on the home page.  (top left tab here on my screen).  I put in different key words.
> 
> I would however like to see pics when you have it installed and warm


I have some used pipes lined up to buy from craigslist, just debating... One setup has everything in a 6" and the other is just 8" pipe so Ill need the cap, collar and whatever else to install. The black pipe is cheap, that stainless is expensive. But can save over $400 going used. I just need to make sure it is in good shape. I am surprised I didnt burn my house down using standard duct pipe that was here that was basically rusted out with a home made barrel stove... but it survived the winter and gave me heat when the house was gutted. I just want to do this right and be safe. here is the barrel I used...


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## wildwildwest

SONOCATIVO said:


> One setup has everything in a 6" and the other is just 8" pipe so Ill need the cap, collar and whatever else to install


Can someone chime in here?   LOL maybe they are all out at halloween parties.

We ran with the 8" pipe on our Schrader.


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## SONOCATIVO

wildwildwest said:


> Can someone chime in here?   LOL maybe they are all out at halloween parties.
> 
> We ran with the 8" pipe on our Schrader.


I am leaning to the 8" all the way out, I only need 5' black pipe inside and 6' of flue outside for legal clearances (2' above  closest object 10' away... i could go higher for better draft? but i can also reduce the pipe off the stove to 6" for slower and longer burns? Im not sure but I believe its safe and possible just adjusting the air intakes.  I was told not to install a damper on the flue pipe above the stove, but Ive always seen them installed, why would you not have a flue damper installed? As I dont know much about the old stoves, I know the new stoves have catalayics for cleaner burns, even with my barrel stove I had extremely clean burns, no creasote in the pipes with full open vent in front and half damper, was a hot fire as the barrel glowed, but the pipe was normal, straight up and out.


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## SONOCATIVO

i just sanded down my ceiling box, wiped down with rubbing alcohol and sprayed with high heat paint after masking off... turned out like new.


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## SONOCATIVO

and finished....


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## SONOCATIVO

Just a few pics that my little helper kept me occupied and also fixed the drywall where the vent stack runs to seal out the cold air from the roof.
	

		
			
		

		
	

View attachment 143371


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