# Log Splitter - Troy Bilt vs NorthStar



## Spikem (Oct 26, 2009)

I'm looking at picking up a log splitter and, due to the sizable investment, want to do it right the first time.

I'm looking at the Troy Bilt 27-ton ($1399), the NorthStar 22-ton ($1399) and the NorthStar 30-ton ($1599).

Given the small difference between the 2 NorthStar models, I would imagine I would go for the added power and get the 30-ton.

The cycle times are: Troy Bilt - 19 sec, NS 22 - 13 sec, NS 30 - 17 sec.

One thing I definitely dislike about the Northstart splitters is that they don't come with fenders (the Troy Bilt ones do).

A thing that is different, that I have no thoughts on, are that the NorthStar wedges are cast steel where the Troy Bilt ones are cast iron.  No big deal?

A big selling point for me for the NorthStar models is they are carried by the same place I get my saw from and have them maintained through; for the Troy Bilt, I'd be getting it from Lowes.


Do people here have information/thoughts they can offer about this?

Thanks for any help!


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## stee6043 (Oct 26, 2009)

I'll share a thought or two.  And for the record I own the 27 Ton Troy Built unit.

First, after splitting roughly 5 cord with mine this year I personally wouldn't go smaller than 27 tons.  I've had a half dozen cherry crotches that were barely splittable with my unit.  So far I have found one (1) that I absolutely could not split.  Any smaller and I think I'd be using a maul more often than I want to.

And for what it's worth I bounce half-rounds off my Troy-Built fenders constantly.  I doubt my tires would survive without them.


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## trafick (Oct 26, 2009)

I have the Northstar 30t unit and except for operator error, I haven't had any problems.  The Honda engine that is on it starts with ease and hasn't even burped through three seasons.  I got mine at Northern Tool and when I needed parts due to my stupidity, they had them.  The paints falling off, it doesn't look new but it runs good and I guess that's all that matters.


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## smokinj (Oct 26, 2009)

I done 60 some cords with the troy built no real issues yet and the honda is a great motor


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## Gooserider (Oct 27, 2009)

I know the cycle time differences don't seem like much, but believe me they add up, and will drive you nuts, or encourage you to do stupid stuff like moving wood while the wedge is coming down in an effort to speed the process up...

IMHO there isn't much that you can do with a 30 that you can't do with a 20, having used both.  I have sometimes mildly thought about the possibility of trading my 5" 30ton cylinder on my HF unit for a 4" and turning it into a 20, that with the 16gpm pump would give me really quick cycle times...

Gooserider


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## Cazimere (Oct 27, 2009)

I rent a Northstar 22 ton for my splitting needs. I split mostly gum, oak and maple. 
If i ever buy one it would be my first choice. But as long as i can rent this one for 80.00 for a weekend, once a year, i doubt i'll ever buy one.


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## rdust (Oct 27, 2009)

Gooserider said:
			
		

> I know the cycle time differences don't seem like much, but believe me they add up, and will drive you nuts, or encourage you to do stupid stuff like moving wood while the wedge is coming down in an effort to speed the process up...




I agree, cycle time is my only knock on the troy bilt splitter.  When I get in a good rhythm with nice splitting wood I don't notice it much since it pops right off the bat and then I just return it back a few inches for the next piece.  When I have to run the wedge all the way through a tough split the return time gets annoying.  Even with that for the money the troy bilt is a good buy imo.  I bought from one of the bb stores and had a 10% off coupon then opened a c.c. for it that gave me interest only for a year.


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## smokinj (Oct 27, 2009)

cycle time doesnt mean much when your worn out from splitting.You can only move so much weight peroid and 3000 lbs doesnt change for anybody. We can ave about a cord an hour 4-5 hrs (with a troy built) and Iam done for the day.


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## firefighterjake (Oct 28, 2009)

I have the 27-ton MTD (as you probably know Troy-Bilt, MTD, White, Cub Cadet, etc. are all pretty much the same splitter with just a few minor differences in regards to engine type, fenders, colors, etc.)

I went back and forth on whether to go with the MTD (or clone) or the Huskee . . . and I debated on the size.

In the end I went with the MTD . . . I ended up getting it with a good price, it was bought locally at the True Value and it came with the one "extra" that I wanted -- namely the log cradle on the side of the beam. The one thing I "gave" up was the Honda engine vs. the B & S that came with it . . . my thinking however is that B & S parts are easy to come by and easy to work on . . . and if the engine does ever die I should be able to either easily replace the engine with another B & S engine or even go with a Honda at that point . . . more over, my Uncle did very little to his B & S engine on this splitter and it always started right up.

Fenders . . . I could take them or leave them . . . for me the splitter isn't going to be doing much road traveling . . . occasionally a split bounces off the fenders, but honestly I don't think bouncing off the tire would have done any damage. I do like the log cradle . . . even though I did shear one of the bolts off when I first started using it . . . an easy fix though. This splitter also came with trailer lights which I didn't bother to hook up.

Negatives (some of which I suspect would be found in most splitters of this size/type/cost): 1) This splitter is slow . . . my Uncle's 22 ton splitter (an older MTD which looks identical to the Huskee/Speeco splitter by the way) is notably faster. 2) The height of this splitter and my Uncle's splitter is a bit low . . . I would prefer these splitters to be a little taller. 3) The wheels are located in a fashion so that when you first use the splitter you cannot stand right next to the beam . . . but eventually you get used to this new position . . . I'm not sure if this is a design issue to allow it to track better while being towed or a safety issue to keep you away from the beam.

Positives: This is still a heckuva lot easier and faster than using a maul or splitter . . . and I am truly glad I went up to the 27-ton splitter. The 22-ton splitter would no doubt have served me well . . . but I have quite a bit of elm and even with the 27-ton splitter there have been several pieces which have really given this splitter a work out. Originally, I was thinking this would be over-kill . . . and honestly, most of the time it is . . . but when you need the wee bit of extra power it's nice to have it.


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## geardoc (Oct 28, 2009)

I have the Northstar 22 ton. I mostly split cherry and gum then everything else. No problems and works like a champ. As for cycle time...by the time I pick another piece of wood up its already returned. I dont see where a faster splitter will benefit me.


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## Spikem (Oct 28, 2009)

geardoc said:
			
		

> I have the Northstar 22 ton. I mostly split cherry and gum then everything else. No problems and works like a champ. As for cycle time...by the time I pick another piece of wood up its already returned. I dont see where a faster splitter will benefit me.



The cycle time on the NorthStar 22-ton is 13 seconds.  Pretty bloody quick if you ask me.


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## Gooserider (Oct 28, 2009)

Spikem said:
			
		

> geardoc said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


  It is until you try the 2-3 second cycle time on a SuperSplit - That gets towards the scary end of fast, and there are other reasons I don't particularly care for the SS, (such as that it's a horizontal only unit) but once you get used to it, the cycle time leaves you thinking they ought to have game show music to play while waiting for the wedge on a hydraulic...  :coolhmm: 

Gooserider


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## carbon neutral (Oct 29, 2009)

Mine is 22 ton, it has never been stalled by any wood including oak and elm crotches.  Fenders are not needed or wanted on a log splitter.  The tires will bounce logs off them better than any fender.  If I could have anything it would be faster cycle times as others have stated.


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## Spikem (Oct 29, 2009)

The place near me that sells the NorthStar 22-ton isn't selling it for $1399 but for $1799.

But...

It's assembled, including having the oil put into it.  So, as it would cost me $204 to have it shipped to me, on the order of $60 for the necessary oil (8 gallons) and I'd have to assemble it, is sounds like the $1799 isn't an unfair price.

Does that sound about right?


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## carbon neutral (Oct 29, 2009)

Spikem said:
			
		

> The place near me that sells the NorthStar 22-ton isn't selling it for $1399 but for $1799.
> 
> But...
> 
> ...


$1800 sounds like too much money for a 22 ton splitter.  I know prices shot up recently but if I had to pay that much I would rent.  I paid $860 for mine 4 years ago, even at that price I debated just renting once a year.


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## fidiro (Sep 16, 2010)

I'm digging this thread back up to let some 27 ton splitter owners know what the cylinder is capable of or should I say NOT capable of, and that is 27 tons.

Don't push this machine to it's limit as you may get disappoited like I am right now.  Read this thread as you may be the next to experience the problem.  This is so that you can be aware that it may happen to you. https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/57455/P0/


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## chuckn (Sep 18, 2010)

Neither--both poor designs.  Go with a Speeco/Husky instead and save yourself from blown out welds and amputation risk recalls.....


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## thewoodlands (Sep 18, 2010)

[quote author="Spikem" date="1256590282"]I'm looking at picking up a log splitter and, due to the sizable investment, want to do it right the first time.

If you really want to do it right go with the http://www.americanmsr.com/home.htm

They are built to last, I paid more for it and if you see the difference in the way they are built compared to Troy Built or Northstar it's worth the extra cost.

zap


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