# Chain Sharpener for a Stihl FarmBoss and MS-362



## 525fury (Apr 4, 2011)

I am terrible at sharpening chains with a file; I know how to do it, but they never seem to cut like when they are new.
I am looking into getting a power chain sharpener, the type with a grinder wheel that will hopefully do the same type of job that my Stihl dealer does on the chains I take to them.  Should save me some turn-around time and much more convenient.  I assume it will just bolt onto the workbench.

I have a Stihl 029 FarmBoss with a 20" bar, and just bought a Stilhl MS-362 with a 25" bar for the bigger stuff.

What specific type/brand/model would you guys recommend??

Thanks much!


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## HittinSteel (Apr 4, 2011)

Seems there is a Northern Tool knock off of the Oregon that if you replace the grinding wheels with the Oregon ones it is a professional grade grinder at a nice price. Hopefully someone will be along with more info.


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## smokinj (Apr 4, 2011)

Oregon 511a or 511ax You can find them used on ebay. There is a few good knock off models out there as well.


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## HittinSteel (Apr 4, 2011)

Thats what the Northern Tool one is Jay (511 knockoff)........ $129. Got my eye on one right now.


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## smokinj (Apr 4, 2011)

HittinSteel said:
			
		

> Thats what the Northern Tool one is Jay (511 knockoff)........ $129. Got my eye on one right now.



Thats the one.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200327449_200327449


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## Dieselhead (Apr 4, 2011)

i got the cheapo 40$ one outta HF and used it once so far and so far so good lol


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## 525fury (Apr 5, 2011)

Might just go with that Northern Tool sharpener for 129.99.
For my .325 chain, what grinding wheel will I need???   It comes with at 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4" wheel, but might order an extra one.

Great lead. Thanks!


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## smokinj (Apr 5, 2011)

525fury said:
			
		

> Might just go with that Northern Tool sharpener for 129.99.
> For my .325 chain, what grinding wheel will I need???   It comes with at 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4" wheel, but might order an extra one.
> 
> Great lead. Thanks!



1/4 for .325


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## 525fury (Apr 8, 2011)

Thanks Jay!


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## jdemaris (Apr 8, 2011)

525fury said:
			
		

> I am looking into getting a power chain sharpener, the type with a grinder wheel that will hopefully do the same type of job that my Stihl dealer does on the chains I take to them.
> 
> What specific type/brand/model would you guys recommend??



The main issue with any saw-chain sharpener is if it has all the adjustments you need. Many cheaper machines do not.
Some only have one angle adjustment along with a depth-stop for grinding rakers.

A good sharpener with have three adjustments plus the depth stop. When you buy a new chain, the paperwork will tell you what those three angles are supposed to be. Vise-tilt angle, top-plate angle, and side-plate angle.

This has little to do with your model of saw.  It's about what specific chain you use and what specs it calls for.  They can all differ a little.

I see many cheap sharpeners that don't have what is needed and are jokes.

I also have a dealer-version Stihl sharpener that is pretty useless.  It was made in the 1970s and was fine at the time for full-size 3/8", .404 and 1/2" chains with standard 35 degree angles in one direction and no other angles needed.  No good for most newer chains - especially full chisel versions of 325" and 3/8" low-profile.  1/4" is even more difficult.

My 1970s Sthil sharpener is pretty useless now.  So is my 1960s Bell-Saw sharpener.

What I use now, I bought from Norhern Tool on sale a few years ago.  HF sometimes has it too.  Has the Oregon brand name and is actually made in Italy. Oregon model 511A-BC.


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## PA Fire Bug (Apr 12, 2011)

Dieselhead said:
			
		

> i got the cheapo 40$ one outta HF and used it once so far and so far so good lol


There are several Harbor Freight Chicago electric sharpeners for sale on eBay.  Is your sharpener like the one at http://tinyurl.com/6fabkz2 ?  I read the earlier post about needing to be able to adjust the sharpener in three directions.  Does the Chicago sharpener allow for the adjustments needed?  My chains are Stihl 26 RMC3 74.  The measurements in the paperwork are a=30, b=75, c=90, d=.65, e=5.2.  I don't even want to attempt sharpening the chains with a file so I'm looking for an electric sharpener.

Thank you.


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## jdemaris (Apr 12, 2011)

aroth said:
			
		

> I read the earlier post about needing to be able to adjust the sharpener in three directions.  Does the Chicago sharpener allow for the adjustments needed?  My chains are Stihl 26 RMC3 74.



No, the HF sharpener is about as cheap as they get and has only one of the three adjustments I mentioned. 

Now, you could use the cheap HF unit - and do a lot of grinding the first time you sharpen -and make all your chains match the sharpener.   Some won't cut as well as they're supposed to, but it will put an edge on them.  What you'd be doing is changing the original factory profiles and making the chains match the fixed profile of the sharpener.

The only adjustment is has is - left 35 degrees to right 35 degrees . . .  as if you're holding a file 90 degrees to the bar.   Many modern chains call for 80 degrees what is the 2nd adjustment.   3rd - to make the curve in the chipper the neck of the sharpener motor is supposed to pivot to a certain angle.  The HF if fixed at 60 degrees.  Some chains call for 50, 70, etc. 

If you have something like round-chipper chain in .325 or 3/8" it's not that critical. If you've got semi-chisel or full-chisel - having all the angles correct makes a big difference.

That HF sharpener is useless for somebody that has to sharpen many different types of chains.  But, if you are only doing one type - you might get by fine.


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## jdemaris (Apr 12, 2011)

aroth said:
			
		

> I read the earlier post about needing to be able to adjust the sharpener in three directions.  .



I just got looking around to see what's currently for sale.  The cheapest sharpener at Northern Tool DOES have all three adjustments.  Much better then the HF unit.  My Italian made unit branded as Oregon is similar but cost 2-3 times as much.

$129  Northern Tool # 193020  I just read the manual for it.  The chain vise has the needed tilt adjustment 10 degrees away from 90 degrees both ways.  HF unit has no adjustment there.

The Nothern unit also has the adjustment for the top plate angle - 50 or 60 degrees. HF uniit has no adjustment there.

Note that Northern is not always the cheapest.  You might find that same sharpener elsewhere for less.


http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200327449_200327449


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## PA Fire Bug (Apr 13, 2011)

Thanks for the information.  $50 sounded good but I don't want to buy a sharpener that doesn't work well and I definitely don't want to buy a cheap one and then buy a good one later.  Having the convenience of getting a chain sharpened without waiting a day and saving $5 each time will pay off in the long run.


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## Backwoods Savage (Apr 13, 2011)

If you'd like to save even more dollars, many times you can get a good grinder for $10. This is the dremel type. When my hands got so bad I had to quit filing I got one of these and have been very happy with it and the results. You can sharpen a chain really quick. I take it right to the woods with me and if the chain needs touching up, just hook it up to the atv and the sharpening is done in just a few minutes. 

There are some who scoff at this method and I admit I had some very serious doubts. I saw a neighbor using one so I tried his then went and bought one. A 3 pack of stones cost less than $10. The only thing you have to be careful is will be the same thing as other grinders. Don't burn the chain. That is easy to stay away from though.


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## RNLA (Apr 13, 2011)

I have the Oregon model and use it a few times per year when I have several chains to sharpen. Be aware that you should clean your chain before a machine grind. The bar oil and saw dust that is stuck to the chain will get on the wheel and heat the chain up which will temper the cutter tooth. This will render the chain unsharpenable by a file. The Oregon grinder includes a wheel dresser block and this should also be used to keep the wheel clean. Many shops have a diamond wheel on their grinders because they do so many chains and the wheel is not affected as bad by the oil, dirt, and saw dust. The teeth that have been over heated are extremely hard to get back to file able metal, the file just goes right over the tooth without taking any metal.


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## 'bert (Apr 14, 2011)

could you please give some detail on how to; what to do with the little dressing block?  One came with my chain grinder, but no instructions on what to do with it.  Please enlighten me


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## smokinj (Apr 14, 2011)

â€™bert said:
			
		

> could you please give some detail on how to; what to do with the little dressing block?  One came with my chain grinder, but no instructions on what to do with it.  Please enlighten me



It is either a cleaning block or a kool grind. Apply it like lipstick. I use kool grind on my stone and keep the stone black. Cleaning blocks help keep the stone round you can hear a skip in the grinding when the stone is out of round. Always use light pressure and you learn to pick up the sounds.


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## PA Fire Bug (Apr 22, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

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My Northern sharpener just arrived and I found that the manual lists the wheel width as 1/8 / 3.2mm for .325 chain.  When I placed the 1/4 wheel against the chain to check the angles, it was so thick that it touched the depth gauge of the tooth.  I ordered an extra 1/4 grinding wheel but I want to return it for 1/8 unless it will work.  I have not used the sharpener yet since I've never sharpened a chain and don't want to ruin it.  The 1/8 grind wheel that came with it was broken.  UPS is coming to inspect the smashed box and broken grind wheel on Monday.  Fortunately, nothing else was broken.


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## smokinj (Apr 22, 2011)

aroth said:
			
		

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Your right its is 1/8 the other wheel should be 3/16....there is no 1/4 its a 3/16.


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## PA Fire Bug (Apr 29, 2011)

After watching a few videos on how to file sharpen a chain, I sharpened three chains with my Northern Tools chain sharpener.  I made a few cuts to make sure that I didn't screw anything up but I haven't had a chance to give the chains a workout yet.  I understand all of the adjustments except the tilt.  Do I need to use the tilt?  If so, should I tilt the chain toward me or away from me?  Should the tilt adjustment be used to sharpen the teeth, the depth gauges or both?  When I touched up the depth gauges, I had the grind angle set at 90 and came straight down on the gauges.  The paper that came with my Stihl chain lists a 10 degree angle for the depth gauges.  Which adjustment should I change and how much should I change it to get the 10 degree angle on the depth gauges?  Thank you.


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## smokinj (Apr 29, 2011)

aroth said:
			
		

> After watching a few videos on how to file sharpen a chain, I sharpened three chains with my Northern Tools chain sharpener.  I made a few cuts to make sure that I didn't screw anything up but I haven't had a chance to give the chains a workout yet.  I understand all of the adjustments except the tilt.  Do I need to use the tilt?  If so, should I tilt the chain toward me or away from me?  Should the tilt adjustment be used to sharpen the teeth, the depth gauges or both?  When I touched up the depth gauges, I had the grind angle set at 90 and came straight down on the gauges.  The paper that came with my Stihl chain lists a 10 degree angle for the depth gauges.  Which adjustment should I change and how much should I change it to get the 10 degree angle on the depth gauges?  Thank you.



Tilt is the tilt to the motor compaired to the chain. Should be 60 degrees. ( for everthing thant I know of) You see the motor swinging down at 60 degree angle or "tilt"   [youtube]http://youtu.be/Ejqffmg-gWE[/youtube]


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## PA Fire Bug (Apr 29, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

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I have the tilt of the motor set at 75 degrees as specified in the paper that came with the chain (the sharpener manual does list the angle as 60 degrees for my chain).  I'm confused about the adjustment that tilts the chain toward or away from me.  On the video, there are three marks on the swivel just under the right side of the chain.  I'm not sure what to do with that adjustment.  I did see that the person in the video hand sharpened the depth gauges.  Thank you.


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## jdemaris (Apr 29, 2011)

aroth said:
			
		

> I have the tilt of the motor set at 75 degrees as specified in the paper that came with the chain (the sharpener manual does list the angle as 60 degrees for my chain).  I'm confused about the adjustment that tilts the chain toward or away from me.  On the video, there are three marks on the swivel just under the right side of the chain.  I'm not sure what to do with that adjustment.  I did see that the person in the video hand sharpened the depth gauges.  Thank you.



The angle for the chain-vise has to be set 10 degrees off-set for many semi and full-chisel chains. That makes it 80 degrees towards the back, or 80 degrees towards the front depending on which cutters you are sharpening (left or right).  For others it's left in the middle at 90 degrees for all the cutters.

The other angle that you've got at 75 degrees may be correct. All depends on the make of the chain. Most call for 60 degrees but some call for 70, 75, or 80 degrees.


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## smokinj (Apr 30, 2011)

aroth said:
			
		

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SHOULD BE SET AT 60 FOR EVERYTHING, That I HAVE EVER DONE INCLUDING CHEEP HOME OWNER CHAIN!

60/30 you will always be in the ball park...unless its milling chain then its 60/10....Cheep homeowner chain 60/25


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## jdemaris (Apr 30, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> SHOULD BE SET AT 60 FOR EVERYTHING, That I HAVE EVER DONE INCLUDING CHEEP HOME OWNER CHAIN!
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> 60/30 you will always be in the ball park...unless its milling chain then its 60/10....Cheep homeowner chain 60/25



There are many chains, cheap and pro that call for 40 or 50 degrees instead of 60.   I can see not doing it if you can't (no adjustment on a cheap sharpener).  But, if you've got a decent sharpener - it makes litttle sense to intentionally sharpen a chain wrong.  Most of my new Oregon chisel chains call for 50 degrees.


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## smokinj (May 1, 2011)

jdemaris said:
			
		

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60 is where I cut them.......Not even going to say how many (in a week) or for how long I have been cutting. lol I have some fast chains and as smooth as you will find anywhere, but cut them how ever you see best! Oh and I have what I consider one of the very best grinders made...there is some reasons why they are calling for that angle and most are not what going to make any deference on a grinder! (with a stone even less)


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