# How to pickle a gas tank.



## karl (Jul 3, 2012)

After 4 days without power and numerous trips to the gas station (not to mention the expense),  I have finally decided to hook my generator to my natural gas.  I've installed gas line before and have found a conversion kit.  So I'm set there.

My question is that even though I don't plan on ever running gasoline through it again.  I might have to or might loan it to someone who will.  How can I keep the gas tank from rusting.   I have some ideas I will list below.  They range from very cheap an easy to moderately expense and a pain to do or undo.  As far as the carburetor goes.  I figured I would clean it out very well and wipe the inside of it down with engine assembly lube.  Does anybody have any better ideas?  Thanks for your replies.


1.  Plug up the vent line and put a handle full of desiccant packs in it.  Probably on a string or something.

2.  Fill it to the brim with used motor oil.

3.  Coat it with an epoxy gas tank sealant.

4.  Put a quart of linseed oil in it and slosh it around and then drain the linseed oil back out.  I'm not sure if this will stop rust for a long period of time.

Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.


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## MasterMech (Jul 4, 2012)

#3 is the best option there IMO.


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## semipro (Jul 5, 2012)

I vote for no. 1.  Cheap, easy, easy to convert to gas again.  You'll just need to make sure the tank is airtight.

Replacing the exisiting tank with a plastic one may be an option.


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## btuser (Jul 5, 2012)

I vote for #1, maybe spray/coat the inside with some oil or something.  

If you seal the tank you should be good for a long long time.


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## JeffRey30747 (Jul 5, 2012)

I'd prefer filling it with diesel or kerosene over used motor oil.


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## Highbeam (Jul 5, 2012)

Filling it with anything will make it heavier than it needs to be. Dry it out, leave the lid off for awhile, lubricate the rubber seal on the fill cap and replace it. Inspect on occasion for rust but don't worry much, the genset will not last forever anyway. The tank should be made of galvanized metal inside and out so it will last a long time with no special attention.

If you find rust forming then you can coat it with epoxy.


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## semipro (Jul 6, 2012)

I've had mixed results with the epoxy and wouldn't want to depend upon it.  Even if you install it perfectly there are still potential entry points at the fill port and fuel outlet where gas or water can get between the coating and metal tank and cause problems.


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## Cazimere (Jul 6, 2012)

Spray the inside with Fogging Oil.  I use to use it in my boat when i put it in storage.


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## tomc585 (Jul 6, 2012)

I would remove the tank if its not a bother. Some clean oil to coat it and store it in a sealed bag or container.
You should also be removing the float, needle and seat which should be stored as well. you can leave them in but the vibration without liquid fuel in the carb will beat them up pretty bad and they will be useless. Also, expect a 10-15% reduction in horse power and power output running on NG but enjoy the long run times. Don't forget to keep track of your engine oil intervals. If you run a generator that doesn't have an oil filter your looking at an oil change every  25-50hrs depending on load and conditions. The hours add up quick when your out for days.


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## MasterMech (Jul 6, 2012)

tomc585 said:


> I would remove the tank if its not a bother. Some clean oil to coat it and store it in a sealed bag or container.
> You should also be removing the float, needle and seat which should be stored as well. you can leave them in but the vibration without liquid fuel in the carb will beat them up pretty bad and they will be useless. Also, expect a 10-15% reduction in horse power and power output running on NG but enjoy the long run times. Don't forget to keep track of your engine oil intervals. If you run a generator that doesn't have an oil filter your looking at an oil change every 25-50hrs depending on load and conditions. The hours add up quick when your out for days.


 
Some oil companies offer different engine oils for stationary off-road engines running on NG.  I don't have a lot of exp. in this area but I felt it was worth mentioning.

A lengthly but informative read:
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/524/natural-gas-engine-oil-analysis




> *Uniqueness of Natural Gas Engines *
> The primary difference between natural gas and other internal combustion engine oils is the necessity to withstand the various levels of oil degradation caused by the gas fuel combustion process, which results in the accumulation of oxides of nitrogen. This condition, commonly called nitration, must be monitored regularly if both lubricant and engine life are to be maintained.
> Sulfated ash content is another consideration unique to natural gas engine oils and the significance of sulfated ash will be described in detail during our discussion of the testing techniques.
> To properly select the most cost-effective condition-monitoring techniques to achieve maximum efficiency and long life from the engines, engine design, operating conditions and the lubricants must be considered.


 

Unfortunately not available by the quart but just one example:
http://ww2.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/synthetic-statiory-natural-gas-engine-oil/


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## tomc585 (Jul 6, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Unfortunately not available by the quart but just one example:
> http://ww2.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/synthetic-statiory-natural-gas-engine-oil/


ouch...and a bit pricey too!


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## MasterMech (Jul 6, 2012)

I imagine 5 gallons would hold a converted portable generator over for a life time....


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