# Opinions Wanted: Ryobi 20 in. 46 cc Gas Chainsaw



## Jacktheknife (Dec 13, 2012)

I am doing some shopping for my first chainsaw and would like opinions on my leading candidate.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...&productId=202521346&R=202521346#.UMpXA729KSN

I have been using my brother's Poulan Pro with 16" bar and it doesn't fatigue me, but bending over to cut up logs does. I am hoping a bigger and better saw will reduce this and be a fair trade for any extra fatigue from the extra weight. I'm over 6'4", trying to find a good match.


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## basod (Dec 13, 2012)

Is this the budget point of the saw you're looking for or the power/bar range?
For $200 range I'd look around on ebay/c-list.
What your getting is a full priced homeowner saw - nothing against this, they can probably be found lightly used for much less


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## Jacktheknife (Dec 13, 2012)

Yeah, this is pretty much my price point, and I have been keeping an eye on Craigslist. I am liking this saw better than anything I've seen on there. If nothing else, I need to set a bar against which to measure other saws.


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## basod (Dec 13, 2012)

I'd question the safety tip on that saw getting in the way on pulling out of a cut
You're trying to get a longer bar for being taller and the nose cover isn't helping you anymore than an 18" bar would
Its actually going to make you have to stoop lower I'd think

TSC has a mid range Husky on sale ~160 for 34cc


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## Thistle (Dec 13, 2012)

Dude  if you're over 6'4" you need this -  

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/forest/products/xp-saws/395-xp-w/

But that's not really a good choice for a first saw


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## Jacktheknife (Dec 13, 2012)

basod said:


> I'd question the safety tip on that saw getting in the way on pulling out of a cut
> You're trying to get a longer bar for being taller and the nose cover isn't helping you anymore than an 18" bar would
> Its actually going to make you have to stoop lower I'd think
> 
> TSC has a mid range Husky on sale ~160 for 34cc


See, this is why I am asking for opinions, I never would have noticed the safety tip until I was purchasing. Is this removable? Going to see if I can find that husky.


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## Thistle (Dec 13, 2012)

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/products/chainsaws/240/#specifications

Here's a better choice.Northern Tool locally sometimes has them on sale for $180-200


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## basod (Dec 13, 2012)

I'd add to check the bay the same saw is going for ~140 or less new


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## Jacktheknife (Dec 13, 2012)

Very good suggestion, checking eBay. Does anyone know if the tip protector is removable?

edit: I found the manual, and e safety tip is easily removed.


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## Como (Dec 13, 2012)

Maybe move the wood up rather than the saw down? I am 6ft and a 20 inch bar is still a back ache after a day, 

So working from my stack when I get down to ground level I find it easier to raise the wood.


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## Jacktheknife (Dec 13, 2012)

I am planning on building a couple sawbucks for gang cutting back at the house to help with the lower cutting, but all I was really meaning to say is that the weight of the saw isn't giving me issues, so a bigger and beefier saw should be realitively easy for me to weild.


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## Jacktheknife (Dec 13, 2012)

Here is another budget saw my brother recommended.

http://menards.com/main/mobile/tool...ainsaws/20-gas-chainsaw/p-1708587-c-10109.htm


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## Como (Dec 13, 2012)

I have a few friends who have those and use and abuse them.

It depends on how much use and how long you want it to last.

One guy I know picks them up secondhand, quick service, only has to last a couple of seasons and he is ahead of the game.

The other guy cuts every week to feed a rapacious OWB, he should upgrade but he has a few and they do the job.


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## MasterMech (Dec 14, 2012)

The Poulan and the Ryobi are probably fraternal twins. For $200 I'd rather see you pick up a Stihl 028AV off of Craigslist or the like.

EDIT: I've seen a couple MS290's on CL here for a hair more than $200. No tax. 

FWIW, Stihl and Husky both offer saws at that $200 price point, none with 20" bars but that brings me to my next point...

4" of bar length is not going to make your back feel a whole lot better. I get down on one knee (that's right, propose to your firewood.... ) when I have to make big cuts down on the ground. For small limbs & what not. there really is no nice way to remove them short of a processing head on an excavator.


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## bogydave (Dec 14, 2012)

What kind & size of wood are you cutting?

I'd go Poulan of the 2 choices.

I'm with MM, a CL saw may be a better  choice
Can you keep borrowing your brother's for a while longer 
while you wait for a deal to show up on CL ?

If you want to run a 20" full chisel, look for around a 60cc saw.
Can always run a skip chain on a smaller cc 20".

Husq 455, 460, 359 
Stihl 290 & up , not sure their number system is strange , but you get the idea.


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## Jacktheknife (Dec 14, 2012)

I've got a great big maple in my own yard that needs to come down, some downed ash and a big and slightly twisted walnut that is already downed by the in-laws, and other than that, whatever I can scrounge. I can keep my brother's saw as long as he doesn't need it, which means unless his other saw goes into the shop.

I am researching and shopping around now so that in late Jan/early Feb I can make an educated purchase when I have the cash. I keep hearing people mention Stihl and Husq, what is it that these saws offer that the others do not? Btw, I have ruled out the Ryobi due to lack of supporting dealers/shop in the area in case of work needing done/parts needing replaced.


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## basod (Dec 14, 2012)

You answered your own question as to why folks reccomend stihl/husky
All the other stuff has limited to no dealer support. 
Then again you have to consider what repairing a $200 saw is going to cost


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## Jacktheknife (Dec 14, 2012)

basod said:


> You answered your own question as to why folks reccomend stihl/husky
> All the other stuff has limited to no dealer support.
> Then again you have to consider what repairing a $200 saw is going to cost


If its about dealer support, I am well covered with Poulan. My borther and Dad have both run Poulan saws as long as I can remember, save for the time Dad got suckered into a POS homelite. I don't recall any of them ever needing extensive repairs, and my dad cut a lot of wood. Why else should I go with the more expensive brands? I am trying to understand the fundamental difference.


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## basod (Dec 14, 2012)

Honestly I've never seen a Poulan service shop or dealer in my life
They used to make decent quality saws - in your dad's day. Being that Wally world sells them now - I doubt there is much support for a Wildthang that was built to be a throw away saw.
Read the fine print in the manual - these class of saws are designed for 100hrs of use.  Doubt many reach that
They'd probably run longer, most are given up on because of carb issues or straight gassed
That's why if you're handy I'd stay away from a full priced box store saw, get a second hand one run the snot out of it - rinse&repeat


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## Jacktheknife (Dec 14, 2012)

I live in the middle of nowhere and pretty much have to travel 45-60 miles to get somewhere. There are multiple Poulan shops in Forest City, Garner, Mason City, Mankato, and Fairmont, so I will be covered on that. I have been advised against the Wild Thing, am told the clutch assembly is extremely flawed and it is not a machine that will last.
I will download the manuals and read about it, but tell me more about this "class." It is consumer vs professional grade that we are dealing with here? And if so, what is the actually difference between the classes, and who decided what class each saw is in?


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## basod (Dec 14, 2012)

Look at it like the triangle of life:
Time-Quality-Cost
If you are required to sacrifice any of them you lose on another.
You need it now? and you need quality you're going to pay extra
You need quality at a low price you'll have to wait for a deal
You need it now at a fixed price you scacrifice quality

With Stihl&husky some of what you are buying is brand name/advertising etc. Not everything they make is a really quality product, but designed to get you in the door at price point.
Without buying a stihl,husky,echo,ryobi,dolmar,poulan in the 40cc range and running them in like conditions for extended periods of time to really see which one is better than the other it's all going to come down to reputation/marketing.
Ryobi is owned by a company that manufacters both Rigid and Milwaukee.  Three brand names with 3 price points, each having a different standard of "quality" part in its manufacture.
So if your stacking saws next to each other in this power/bar size class
Why is one ~$200 another 270 and another 350?
Did they save enough building it in China and importing it or did they cheap the parts down to make a smaller margin and sell a bunch of them


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## MasterMech (Dec 14, 2012)

Jacktheknife said:


> Why else should I go with the more expensive brands?


 
Reliability.  Poulan ain't near what they once were.  The smaller Husky's are actually Poulan clones (2xx saws IIRC) but dealer support is much better with orange vs yellow plastic IME.  Saws like the 435/445/450/455/460 you can expect Husqvarna's usual excellent quality/performance.

Stihl offers near unbeatable parts support for even their smallest homeowner saws and the reliability record is pretty spotless too. That's because they are sold/serviced in a way that assures you cannot receive a saw with a problem right out of the box.  Dealers are _supposed_ to start and tune every new saw sold before handing it over.  That doesn't mean problems never pop up but it sure does make it rare. 



Jacktheknife said:


> I live in the middle of nowhere and pretty much have to travel 45-60 miles to get somewhere.


 
One problem (for you anyways) with Stihl however is that new OEM parts are not supposed to be sold online (making online parts sources scarce) so if you don't have a dealer local to you, it might be a pain driving in to get what you need.  Your dealer may however be willing to ship parts to you via phone transaction.



Jacktheknife said:


> It is consumer vs professional grade that we are dealing with here? And if so, what is the actually difference between the classes, and who decided what class each saw is in?


 
Pro-grade saws from either brand start at roughly $500 and go from there.  If you're willing to go there, the Husky 346XP and Stihl MS261 kick-off the pro saw lines.  Many members here own professional grade saws and will tell you they will never go back.  These are the kind of machine a non-commercial firewood cutter will be hard pressed to wear out.

IMO: The Stihl MS250 is a fantastic saw for the money (comparing new saws only, StihlHead will tell you to go get a used 026 instead  ) Will flat-out out-perform any of the Poulan Pro machines and is the most HP you can buy for $300.  Not considered "professional grade" but there are a lot of 20 year old 025's (the ancestor to the MS250, almost an exact twin) out there still hacking up firewood for homeowners.  The MS250 is still nice and light at 10lbs and pulls the 18" bar with authority.


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## MasterMech (Dec 14, 2012)

basod said:


> Look at it like the triangle of life:
> Time-Quality-Cost
> If you are required to sacrifice any of them you lose on another.
> You need it now? and you need quality you're going to pay extra
> ...


There is a saying that sums that up nicely:

You can have it repaired Correctly, Quickly, or Inexpensively, pick any two.


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## Jacktheknife (Dec 14, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Reliability.  Poulan ain't near what they once were.  The smaller Husky's are actually Poulan clones (2xx saws IIRC) but dealer support is much better with orange vs yellow plastic IME.  Saws like the 435/445/450/455/460 you can expect Husqvarna's usual excellent quality/performance.
> 
> Stihl offers near unbeatable parts support for even their smallest homeowner saws and the reliability record is pretty spotless too. That's because they are sold/serviced in a way that assures you cannot receive a saw with a problem right out of the box.  Dealers are _supposed_ to start and tune every new saw sold before handing it over.  That doesn't mean problems never pop up but it sure does make it rare.
> 
> ...



Thanks M M, this is the best argument towards spending more money that I've seen. I'm not trying to be difficult, I just have a hard time parting with money and I can't tell the difference between Cheerios and Toasted Oats


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## MasterMech (Dec 14, 2012)

Jacktheknife said:


> I can't tell the difference between Cheerios and Toasted Oats


 
That's just it. Some examples there's a whole world of difference, and in many, many others, there ain't.


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## Jacktheknife (Dec 14, 2012)

I think I will take a look around a Stihl dealership after work today, there is one 7 miles from where I work.


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## Jags (Dec 14, 2012)

Jacktheknife said:


> I think I will take a look around a Stihl dealership after work today, there is one 7 miles from where I work.


You just answered your own question.

Stick around, we will help you spend your money.  Maybe ask your dealer if he has any deals on a used machine.  Don't be afraid of a used Stihl.  They last for years and are very repairable. (unlike those box store saws).


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## lukem (Dec 14, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> 4" of bar length is not going to make your back feel a whole lot better.


 
I'm gonna have to disagree on this one.  I'm about 6'3" with my boots on and the 4" of extra bar does make a noticeable difference, especially when limbing...not so much bucking.  This is just my opinion.

Also consider the total cost of ownership over the life of not only the saw, but of the operator.  Consider this:

You drop $200 bucks on a box store saw and it performs dutifully for maybe 5-7 years.  After that point it is probably going to wear out and require some major repairs (which you may not be able to find parts for) or an overall replacement.  Let's be honest...these saws are not meant to last a lifetime...they just aren't.  So, in 5-7 years, you'll be spending another $250 (or more depending on inflation) to replace it to get you to, best case scenario 12-15 years worth of wood cutting service....so $450.  All the while using a saw that doesn't have the best anti-vibration, power, and quick repair ability (big Stihl and Husky dealer network versus who knows what for the Ryobi).

Now, if you take that same $450 bucks and buy a new or lightly used Stihl or Husky...that saw will most likely last you 15 years, and probably a lot more...but let's just say it dies at 12-15 years to keep it apples to apples.  In the end you are out the same amount of loot, but you get the enjoyment of using a top-end saw that has all the reliability, power, and ergonomics money can buy.

Right after I bought my first house I bought a Ryobi string trimmer.  It was OK...a bit heavy...and made my hands go numb from all the vibration if I used it much more than 30 minutes.  It did its job for about 5 years and broke and parts were no-where to be found.  I think I paid $110 for it.  After it broke I bought a Stihl trimmer for about $200.  I was out about double the money over the Ryobi, but I have no doubt this will last twice as long, if not longer...and it is a joy to use over the Ryobi (weighs less, starts easier, and vibrates less).

As the saying goes...buy once, cry once.  I'm not saying go out and spend more than you can afford, or buy more saw than you'll ever need, but take into account how long you plan on cutting wood into the decision making process.  These aren't computers or smartphones...today's chainsaw technology isn't likely to be obsolete in 10 years.

Good luck with your purchase.


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## Jacktheknife (Dec 14, 2012)

So.. I can pick up my used Stihl 250 next Friday.


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## MasterMech (Dec 14, 2012)

lukem said:


> Right after I bought my first house I bought a Ryobi string trimmer. It was OK...a bit heavy...and made my hands go numb from all the vibration if I used it much more than 30 minutes. It did its job for about 5 years and broke and parts were no-where to be found. I think I paid $110 for it. After it broke I bought a Stihl trimmer for about $200. I was out about double the money over the Ryobi, but I have no doubt this will last twice as long, if not longer...and it is a joy to use over the Ryobi (weighs less, starts easier, and vibrates less).


 
Had an almost identical experience but in a commercial setting.  A golf course I was working for bought whatever HD/Lowes had on sale in April and gave those three units to the summer help to do the "trim work" (does several thousand yards of riverbank count as "trim"?  ) which includes more trees than you'd think should be on a golf course plus all the water and bunkers.  Those units were done by August if they even made it that far.  We had a couple old shindawa units kicking around but they were heavy and vibrated excessively due to bent shafts so they weren't much fun to use either.  Frustrated, the superintendent asked me if there was anything affordable (we're a low budget operation, trying to run an 18 hole championship course on a 9 hole par 3 budget. ) that would at least make it through the season.  I recommended the Stihl FS55R, with that $200 price tag, and they bought 3 that fall.  Those same 3 units just wrapped up season 4 on that course and are still running strong. Not bad at all for a "homeowner" unit.   Used  to sell the damn things to the prisons to give to the inmates weedwacking roadsides.


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## swagler85 (Dec 15, 2012)

Jacktheknife said:


> So.. I can pick up my used Stihl 250 next Friday.


You will be very happy with your saw


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## Jacktheknife (Dec 15, 2012)

swagler85 said:


> You will be very happy with your saw


I am hoping so. Too bad I can't have it sooner, I am going cutting again on Monday.


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## Thistle (Dec 16, 2012)

That depends.


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## Jacktheknife (Dec 16, 2012)

Thistle said:


> That depends.


Lmao @ the comic.


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## Jacktheknife (Dec 21, 2012)

I picked up the 250 today. Not sure when I will get a chance to use it. Picked up a new chain for my brother's Poulan Pro and gave it to him when I returned his saw to him.


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## Butcher (Dec 21, 2012)

Jacktheknife said:


> I picked up the 250 today. Not sure when I will get a chance to use it. Picked up a new chain for my brother's Poulan Pro and gave it to him when I returned his saw to him.


 I think you will be happy with you purchace. I have a newer 250 and 2 old 025's at work. They are a very dependable saw.


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## Jacktheknife (Dec 21, 2012)

Thanks butcher. I'm having a little trouble figuring out if Oregon makes a replacement chain for this. I got the 18" bar, .325" pitch, .063 guage with 68 drive link count. This is Stihl marketing number 26 Rm3 68. Any one know if there is an oregon chain that will fit this, and if so is that a good idea?

Edit: after multiple hours of searching I posted on here and Murphy's law kicked in-- Oregon L68.


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## XJma (Dec 22, 2012)

You're gonna love the 250.  Check this out for chain cross references.  http://www.baileysonline.com/saw-chain-cross-reference-chart.asp

Stihl makes really good chain too, so don't forget them, but my local dealer needs to order anything other than green chain.


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## Jacktheknife (Dec 22, 2012)

I mainly wanted to compare prices and quality. Standard fare.


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## swagler85 (Dec 22, 2012)

From what most others say on here the stihl chain is much better


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## Jacktheknife (Dec 22, 2012)

swagler85 said:


> From what most others say on here the stihl chain is much better


Good to know.


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## Bigg_Redd (Dec 22, 2012)

Jacktheknife said:


> I am doing some shopping for my first chainsaw and would like *opinions* on my leading candidate.
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...&productId=202521346&R=202521346#.UMpXA729KSN
> 
> I have been using my brother's Poulan Pro with 16" bar and it doesn't fatigue me, but bending over to cut up logs does. I am hoping a bigger and better saw will reduce this and be a fair trade for any extra fatigue from the extra weight. I'm over 6'4", trying to find a good match.


 
It's a piece of sh_t.  That's my opinion.


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## lukem (Dec 22, 2012)

I was out cutting with my BIL today.  I was running the 361 with a just out of the box new Stihl full chisel chain (light saber) and he was running his 45cc box store saw.  I realize he brought a knife to a gun fight but we were bucking the same elm tree and I was making 5-6 cuts for every one of his.  For 45cc and a sharp chain (I just sharpened it for him) I expected a lot more.  

In a fair fight, like with the 250, I gotta think it would Stihl put a whoopin on the box store saw.


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## Jacktheknife (Dec 23, 2012)

Bigg_Redd said:


> It's a piece of sh_t.  That's my opinion.


Then it's a good thing I didn't buy that POS.


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## MasterMech (Dec 23, 2012)

Bigg_Redd said:


> It's a piece of sh_t. That's my opinion.


 Leave it to Redd to boil it down to the syrup for us.


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