# Pellet Stove placement help?



## mudeprived (Oct 9, 2016)

Hi everybody.

   I am in the market for a pellet stove for my 960 sq ft home and need help with placement.

I have a basement (also 960 sq ft) that has not so great insulation and half of it is above ground so it gets pretty cold down there. Last year it hit as low as 38. Brrrr. Upstairs is heated by electric baseboard with individual controllers in each room. The house has no ducting.

I have narrowed down my choices to the Pleasant Hearth Cabinet Style stove and Comfortbilt HP22. I'm trying to figure out where to place the stove.

I had an idea of placing it in the middle of the cold basement and adding a few vents in each room upstairs to allow the heat to rise but I'm not sure if the stove will produce enough heat to deal with the cold down there plus heat upstairs some. Will this work for the time being until I can get insulation on the walls downstairs?

Should I forget downstairs and place it upstairs in the living room or guest room? The guest room is the room straight down the hall. If I place it in that room then all the heat will blow into each room of the hallway and hit the kitchen and living room at the end. I could place it in the living room but the opening to that room is like a door way so it's not "open" enough for heat to spread throughout the house....unless it will?

I've never owned a pellet stove so I'm not sure of it's heating capabilities....hence the reason I'm asking you guys. 

Let me know if you got any input or advice.

Thanks

Chris


----------



## bogieb (Oct 9, 2016)

I would not count on enough heat rising to keep the living quarters warm enough. Been there done that with a 650 s/f basement and 950 sq/ft main floor - using a P61a; a stove more than capable of heating way more area than I have. I cut vents in the floor plus took the door off the stairway but during the deep of winter the warmest spot on the main floor was mid 60's while the basement was in the 80's and 90's.Used vent fans (forcing air up and down in all kinds of configurations), and that had some impact but still the bedrooms got very cold at high 40's. I slept on the couch all winter because it was too cold in the bedrooms. Even after installing rigid foam insulation along the block foundation, I ended up putting another stove on the main floor (P61a is too big to place on main floor). I will allow as to many people have successfully heated their homes from a basement stove, but you can't count on it.

If you chose to place the stove on the main floor, the heat will distribute much better if you give it a straight shot down the hall. Not saying it won't heat the house in another configuration (you living room), but less need of other fans, or overheating the stove room if the heat is naturally distributed via the stove fan. It is hard to believe the difference just a cant of 45* degrees makes in heat distribution. My first stove that I had in the living room (see drawing) was at a 45 (a true corner set up), in the exact same placement as my current stove - which is pointed straight down the hall. With a true corner set up - the heat stream was pointed at the dead corner in the LR and I had to use several fans to help move heat down the hall. With my current set up (in the drawing), I don't use any supplemental fans.

If I had it to do over, I would have two stoves, but a smaller  (and as a by-product, cheaper), one downstairs. However I do love the P61 (along with my P43) and both areas stay toasty warm with the two stoves. Additionally, it is nice to know that if the main floor stove is down (hasn't happened, but just in case), then the P61a will be able to keep the house warm enough to keep from freezing - I would just have to avoid the bedrooms.

Hopefully I made sense in my description of the two set ups I've tried on the main floor. If not, let me know if you have any questions.


----------



## Lake Girl (Oct 9, 2016)

Not a good idea to cut holes in the floor as it is ilegal because it proots fire spread if the worst happens putting you and firefighters at greater risk .  A cold air return behind where the stove resides downstairs has been found to be helpful. Generally very difficult to heat from a basement especially if uninsulated.  Money spent on insulating, upgrading windows, etc is always money well spent. 

A sketch or pics of upstairs layout and location of stairwell would help.


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 9, 2016)

Thanks for the quick replies. My upstairs is almost the same as the diagram above. The only differences are the living room is on left, kitchen on right, and living room entrance is before the stairs. The bottom right guest room has the full width of the hallway for the door so I figured placing it in there will blow heat down the hallway into all the rooms. 

Then maybe install a 2nd smaller stove downstairs. I can warm the basement to 70 with a kerosene heater so it wouldn't take a big stove to heat it.


----------



## Lake Girl (Oct 9, 2016)

Pellet stoves cannot be in bedrooms.  Really not a good way to catch both kitchen and living room as in bogieb's house?


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 9, 2016)

Lake Girl said:


> Pellet stoves cannot be in bedrooms.  Really not a good way to catch both kitchen and living room as in bogieb's house?



Here's my layout. We do plan to tear down the small south wall that sticks up at the entrance to the living room to open it up more. 

The left side is the street side a.k.a "back of the house". The south is the driveway side. The right has my front porch and parking spot. The top faces trees and my neighbor's house. My house is built the opposite of most houses, backwards.


----------



## bogieb (Oct 10, 2016)

Lake Girl said:


> Pellet stoves cannot be in bedrooms.  Really not a good way to catch both kitchen and living room as in bogieb's house?



Pellet stoves are not allowed in sleeping rooms of mobile homes (according to my stove manual). It doesn't say anything about stick built homes. However, I would caution you to check the manual of the stove you plan to buy (for restrictions) along with your state and local regulations. And also check with your insurance company before installing if you determine the guest room is where you really want it. Even if they all say it is okay, you should still recognize that you will lose a lot of furniture space to the clearances required and that you don't want the possibility of bedding being pushed off and into the restricted zone. Not saying you shouldn't do it, just make sure that is what you want to do (heck, I sleep in my living room most of the time, so technically my stove is in my bedroom)

If you open up that doorway, a corner install in the living room would allow a lot of the airstream to be pushed thru. However, when it bumps into the corner of the bathroom, I don't have any idea of what it will do.


----------



## Lake Girl (Oct 10, 2016)

Could always try a large fan in the proposed spot and tape up some flagging ribbon (use painter tape) to see what convection loop would be generated.  Fan should be approximate height of the stove heat exchanger.


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 10, 2016)

Good idea. I will try that this evening.


----------



## Lake Girl (Oct 10, 2016)

It won't be exact because you won't have the full effect of  the warmer air moving out of the stove and colder air being pulled into the stove from closer to the floor.  At least it will give you an idea...


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 10, 2016)

Ok I over-did this test project a bit lol. I bought black knitting string and started cutting 4 foot sections and taping them to ceiling throughout the first floor. Every room and the hallway had a bunch of string hanging all over.  I soon learned that I converted the house into a play house for our 11 month old kitten. 

I placed the fan in the guest room against the left wall facing the door and turned it on. There was air flow going about 4-5 feet into the hallway and then nothing. Barely any of it entered the bedrooms on the left. I did not see any string movement in the kitchen. This was a bit strange. 

I then moved the fan to the top left corner of the living room aiming towards the entrance. There was string movement throughout the kitchen and about 4 feet down the hall way. I believe this is the better spot of the two and once I take down that small section of vertical wall then it will open up for more heat distribution.


----------



## Lake Girl (Oct 10, 2016)

Sounds like the kitten had fun!  A little early for a creepy house for Halloween  Kind of figured the LR corner would be better but you never know...  Sometimes better to see airflow in action rather than what logic dictates.

Keep us posted on the install.  Doing it yourself?  Pay careful attention to clearances.  Likely safest to vent out the wall without the window just make sure there are no intakes for furnace, gas meter if you have one etc.  Should install an outside air kit.

Keep the cat off the top of the stove and away from the vent pipe as they do get warm.  Cat and dog have singed fur off tails on the door glass at our house!


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 10, 2016)

Lake Girl said:


> Sounds like the kitten had fun!  A little early for a creepy house for Halloween  Kind of figured the LR corner would be better but you never know...  Sometimes better to see airflow in action rather than what logic dictates.
> 
> Keep us posted on the install.  Doing it yourself?  Pay careful attention to clearances.  Likely safest to vent out the wall without the window just make sure there are no intakes for furnace, gas meter if you have one etc.  Should install an outside air kit.
> 
> Keep the cat off the top of the stove and away from the vent pipe as they do get warm.  Cat and dog have singed fur off tails on the door glass at our house!



Yeah the top wall in the LR has no windows or anything restricting the exhaust vent so it is a perfect candidate. I will also install the oak according to the directions of the stove. 

I need to choose a stove now. I have the Pleasant Hearth Cabinet and Comfortbilt HP22 as my top two but I'm starting to sway toward the Castle Serenity based on the reviews here. I like the PH stove cuz of it's 5 year warranty and huge hopper. I like the HP22 because of it's reliability and build quality. But now alot of you guys here recommend the Serenity. I guess I gotta research some more....


----------



## Lake Girl (Oct 10, 2016)

A cautionary note on the comfortbilt, I have yet to see any mention of UL testing, Warnock hersey, or Intertek certification.  Manual is silent on that so you may want to confirm testing before buying.  Save you from getting in trouble with your insurance company.  

Pleasant hearth has the intertek cert so you are good to go there.  I think the Serenity is OK that way too but the manual isn't downloading for me tonight.


----------



## bogieb (Oct 11, 2016)

mudeprived said:


> Ok I over-did this test project a bit lol. I bought black knitting string and started cutting 4 foot sections and taping them to ceiling throughout the first floor. Every room and the hallway had a bunch of string hanging all over.  I soon learned that I converted the house into a play house for our 11 month old kitten. .



That is funny!



mudeprived said:


> I placed the fan in the guest room against the left wall facing the door and turned it on. There was air flow going about 4-5 feet into the hallway and then nothing. Barely any of it entered the bedrooms on the left. I did not see any string movement in the kitchen. This was a bit strange.
> 
> I then moved the fan to the top left corner of the living room aiming towards the entrance. There was string movement throughout the kitchen and about 4 feet down the hall way. I believe this is the better spot of the two and once I take down that small section of vertical wall then it will open up for more heat distribution.



The warm stove air should move more than the fan air did because the heat will help create its own draft (although you won't know exactly how much until it actually happens). Glad it seems to work fairly well from the LR - that will keep the warmest air in the room that probably sees the most activity during waking hours.



mudeprived said:


> I need to choose a stove now. I have the Pleasant Hearth Cabinet and Comfortbilt HP22 as my top two but I'm starting to sway toward the Castle Serenity based on the reviews here. I like the PH stove cuz of it's 5 year warranty and huge hopper. I like the HP22 because of it's reliability and build quality. But now alot of you guys here recommend the Serenity. I guess I gotta research some more....



Harman!


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 11, 2016)

bogieb said:


> That is funny!
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I would love to get a Harman but it's way over my budget. Dealers around here want $3500 to $4000 for one. I can't seem to find a place to order one online either.


----------



## bogieb (Oct 11, 2016)

You won't order a Harman online, they are dealer only. And, that was more of a joke than anything - Harman is always the best answer to any question (except the answer to life, the universe and everything - that is always 42).


----------



## Lake Girl (Oct 11, 2016)

Have you checked to see if the dealers have any used stoves?


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 11, 2016)

Wise choice if you choose the Serenity over the other two choices.If you haven't seen my post here Serenity saga give it a read and the final outcome. No other co. Is gonna provide customer service like that.Then you have the ease of cleaning, no complicated passages to worry about or panels to deal with removing just a simple effective design.


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 11, 2016)

rich2500 said:


> Wise choice if you choose the Serenity over the other two choices.If you haven't seen my post here Serenity saga give it a read and the final outcome. No other co. Is gonna provide customer service like that.Then you have the ease of cleaning, no complicated passages to worry about or panels to deal with removing just a simple effective design.



I am most likely going to choose the serenity and maybe get two so I can put one downstairs. I will wait and see how I like the first one.

I did contact ComfortBilt regarding the testing and certification.  Glenn from ComfortBilt has been super helpful and emailed me the documents right away. He also sent me the letter from intertek that shows the testing results. So it has been tested and certified, it just doesn't state it in the online manual.

Looks like both ComfortBilt and castle have excellent customer service.


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 11, 2016)

Ok so I put the order through Ace Hardware for the Serenity. 

Now I'm not mistaken the stove does not include the OAK and I know I need the exhaust vent. 

You guys have any personal preferences regarding the air and vent kits? I see Duravent is popular and there are a number of OAK out there.


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 11, 2016)

no oak with the stove, any oak setup is fine as long as it's metal, you can go with the separate one or a thimble with the built in oak, for exhaust duravent is fine as long as you seal all the joints or Selkirk kits are also reasonably priced on Amazon.


----------



## bogieb (Oct 12, 2016)

Duravent works well and you can seal up with hi-temp silicone tape so it is easy to pull apart if needed (RTV can get tiresome to remove). I don't have experience with other pipe, but think as long as you make sure it is rated for a pellet stove, then it doesn't matter - I would use a major brand as you know that you will be able to get replacements or additional pieces that fit later if needed.

For the OAK you want metal semi-rigid flex pipe that will go over the stove outlet (don't use the dryer vent hose) - example here. For some stoves that is a 2" pipe for others 3" (actually a tinge under). My Harmans take the larger hose, but I was able to use 2" for the Hastings I had previously. You can get a thimble that has both OAK and exaust holes, but be aware that it is made for a 2" OAK pipe , not a 3" pipe. But if your stove has a 2" OAK, then the kit usually includes the flex hose.


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 12, 2016)

Tractor supply has the dura-vent kits on sale for $149. I gotta track one down in a store around here and scoop it up!


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 12, 2016)

yep that's a good price for the duravent kit, snatch that up if you can and a roll or two of this tape http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-T...sing-Silicone-Tape-in-Black-1208952/100206050


----------



## Lake Girl (Oct 12, 2016)

When installing the OAK, make sure you install it below th exhaust venting.


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 12, 2016)

Do you guys know the difference between the 3pvl-kha and 3pvm-kha venting kit?

Tractor supply did not have the $149 model in Stock but gave me the 3pvl-kha model for the discounted price. That was nice of them but I need to make sure it is the same dura-vent kit so I can get a compatible 45 degree elbow that I need for corner installation.


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 12, 2016)

The pvm is multifuel pvl is just pellet


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 12, 2016)

rich2500 said:


> The pvm is multifuel pvl is just pellet


Ok thanks I'm good to go then.


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 13, 2016)

rich2500 said:


> The pvm is multifuel pvl is just pellet



Hey Rich do you happen to remember the dimensions of the container/pallet that the serenity came in? My cherokee is down for repairs and all I have is my TJ wrangler. Ace called and said it's ready to pick up.

Is it ok to place it on it's side or must it stay upright? I saw a picture online of someone laying it down on it's side in the back of a SUV.


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 13, 2016)

The box is just barely bigger then the stove maybe 2 1/2 feet square, yeah I hauled mine 2 hrs home lying on its side  but you will have to open the box and take the burn pot out so it can't fly around and break the door glass.It will probably be strapped to a pallet which would be easier to haul if you remove it from the pallet


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 13, 2016)

rich2500 said:


> The box is just barely bigger then the stove maybe 2 1/2 feet square, yeah I hauled mine 2 hrs home lying on its side  but you will have to open the box and take the burn pot out so it can't fly around and break the door glass.It will probably be strapped to a pallet which would be easier to haul if you remove it from the pallet.



Thanks. It'll fit in the back of my wrangler if I take the top off. It will be a chilly ride to Ace tomorrow!

And it's a good thing I recently installed heavy duty coil springs on my jeep.


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 13, 2016)

At least you got one last year they were selling faster then they could get them.


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 13, 2016)

rich2500 said:


> At least you got one last year they were selling faster then they could get them.



Yeah I read about that. Me and another dude (in my off road forum) both bought the stove this week and got em delivered quickly. They are meeting the demand!


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 14, 2016)

Well is it home safely


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 14, 2016)

It just barely fit under my top so I didn't have to remove it. Took 3.5 of us (.5 was a little lady) to lift it into the jeep. 





Now the fun part is getting it out on my own. I predict the jeep flipping over backwards and landing on my porch.


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 14, 2016)

Sweet, keep us posted


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 14, 2016)

Got it out. First the tires were flattened by the weight so I had to get the Viair out and fix that. Then I couldn't tilt it cuz the top was too close so I had to remove the top. Then finally It bounced out of the jeep and onto the porch and then into the kitchen. No damage or death occurred

45 degree elbow and fresh air kit is currently on the big brown truck. I'll start searching for local pellets. I wonder if Tractor Supply has good ones. I can't remember the name of them but they were in white bags. If not them then I have a small mom and pop shop slash UPS drop off store a couple miles from here that has pellets by the ton. 

I wonder if i can stack a ton of pellets into the back of the jeep.


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 14, 2016)

Best to try as many different pellets as you can and see which you like best before buying in bulk. Good thing is the Serenity will eat any pellets you feed it. I have had 26 bags of pellets in my Liberty no problem.


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 25, 2016)

rich2500 said:


> Best to try as many different pellets as you can and see which you like best before buying in bulk. Good thing is the Serenity will eat any pellets you feed it. I have had 26 bags of pellets in my Liberty no problem.



Thanks for the advice. A local store near me said they will be getting quality pellets in a week or two. 

Right now I'm trying to decide on an ash vacuum. What you do you recommend? 

I have a cheap shop vac/blower (green) but I don't trust that for the task.


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 25, 2016)

personally I use a regular lowes 6 gal. shop vac with the yellow dust bags, If I was to buy a ash vac I would buy the shop vac 
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Shop-Vac-Stainless-Steel-Metal-Ash-Vacuum/50092626


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 25, 2016)

rich2500 said:


> personally I use a regular lowes 6 gal. shop vac with the yellow dust bags, If I was to buy a ash vac I would buy the shop vac
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Shop-Vac-Stainless-Steel-Metal-Ash-Vacuum/50092626



Does Lowes or HD carry these dust bags?


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 25, 2016)

yes they are for fine dust like drywall dust, they will be with the shop vacs in a bag, you buy according to your shop vac gal. capacity . these are for cold ash only though.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Shop-Vac-2-Pack-5-8-Gallon-Drywall-Collection-Filter-Bags/1006323


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 25, 2016)

have you got the stove installed yet, remember we like pics here


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 25, 2016)

rich2500 said:


> have you got the stove installed yet, remember we like pics here



Not yet. I plan to this weekend. I was busy fixing/preparing my other jeep for winter duties and now my mother's monte carlo's heat died so hopefully I find the time. I have a second job as the "family mechanic". lol

I do have to make a floor mat of some sort for the stove too. I kinda forgot about that.


----------



## scotthershall (Oct 25, 2016)

Tractor Supply seems to have decent pellets but the actual manufacturers vary. In CT at least we get Maine Woods in the white-with-blue-text TSC bags. Someone in NY posted a TSC barcode and they were Currans. Sometimes you can check the UPC to get a manufacturer while other times it's a generic UPC and you'll get no info. If you have an iPhone or Android phone you can download an app called iGepir to read UPCs with your camera and search a UPC database. TSC has the cheapest prices around me. I'm testing six bags of the Maine Woods variety right now and they're doing pretty well. Comparable to Stove Chow from Home Depot and other BBS Energex products.

As for vacuums... I'm using my $40 Black Friday special from Home Depot - a basic Ridgid shop vac with the standard 1 layer filter that came with it. Obviously I shut down the stove completely and make sure it's cool before any vacuuming. I also scoop out a majority of the ash (no ash pan on my stove) before vacuuming. Never had any issues. I am considering a better filter just because i use my vacuum for other projects and I don't want to risk a tear and covering my family room with ash.

Good luck with your Serenity. They seems like really nice, affordable stoves! I definitely like the menu-based controller.


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 25, 2016)

mudeprived said:


> Not yet. I plan to this weekend. I was busy fixing/preparing my other jeep for winter duties and now my mother's monte carlo's heat died so hopefully I find the time. I have a second job as the "family mechanic". lol
> 
> I do have to make a floor mat of some sort for the stove too. I kinda forgot about that.


 
Don't know what you plan to do for floor protection but Lowe's sells these boards, it's what I have used since 2005  Ace also sells them with different patterns on them.
https://m.lowes.com/pd/IMPERIAL-Black-Stove-Board/3818607


----------



## bags (Oct 25, 2016)

Well good, I was going to suggest looking into the Castle Serenity when you mentioned the other two stoves above but I see Rich has already hooked you up. Good deal. What kind of price is Ace selling them for now? I still would like to buy a Serenity and may do so but I'm at my limit for now since I also sprung for a new NC-30 wood stove on a spring sale which I have not put in yet. I have to keep the Boss Lady calm with my burning habits around here. Seems every year I buy some new wood / pellet burning toy. Guess i'm a junkie.

I plan to finish stuff up here finally and get the new wood stove in also. I bought it mainly for backup for the pellet stoves. I fell a few months ago and was laid up badly. I broke both ankles and my right heel so I have been out of commission. I am walking again now and out of my casts so I'm looking forward to getting busy here. 

Shoot us some pics when you get that new Serenity in. Get it running and tell us what you think. Good Luck


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 25, 2016)

Hope you continue to full recovery Bags
For the past week or so ace had the Serenity on sale for 899


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 25, 2016)

rich2500 said:


> Don't know what you plan to do for floor protection but Lowe's sells these boards, it's what I have used since 2005  Ace also sells them with different patterns on them.
> https://m.lowes.com/pd/IMPERIAL-Black-Stove-Board/3818607



Thanks. I dunno if that will work well on a carpet floor. I plan to build a slight riser out of something and place one of those on top.

I'm not sure how that will look in a corner setup. I could cut it maybe.


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 25, 2016)

Here is mine with the Ravelli, If I would want to install the Serenity I just remove the riser and put the Serenity on just the board on top of the carpet that is how I had the Serenity for the 3 years I used it.


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 26, 2016)

rich2500 said:


> Here is mine with the Ravelli, If I would want to install the Serenity I just remove the riser and put the Serenity on just the board on top of the carpet that is how I had the Serenity for the 3 years I used it.
> View attachment 186550



That looks good but mine is going in the corner facing forward not horizontal with the wall. It appears they don't offer a squared version of that board which would look better with the way my stove will sit.


----------



## bogieb (Oct 26, 2016)

bags said:


> Well good, I was going to suggest looking into the Castle Serenity when you mentioned the other two stoves above but I see Rich has already hooked you up. Good deal. What kind of price is Ace selling them for now? I still would like to buy a Serenity and may do so but I'm at my limit for now since I also sprung for a new NC-30 wood stove on a spring sale which I have not put in yet. I have to keep the Boss Lady calm with my burning habits around here. Seems every year I buy some new wood / pellet burning toy. Guess i'm a junkie.
> 
> I plan to finish stuff up here finally and get the new wood stove in also. I bought it mainly for backup for the pellet stoves. I fell a few months ago and was laid up badly. I broke both ankles and my right heel so I have been out of commission. I am walking again now and out of my casts so I'm looking forward to getting busy here.
> 
> Shoot us some pics when you get that new Serenity in. Get it running and tell us what you think. Good Luck



Ooh, that is bad . Hope you are healing up quickly and well. I'm sure you were going stir crazy without being able to be active.


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 27, 2016)

I'm running out to lowe's to get some stuff and grab that stove pad. After taking some measurements it appears I can make it work. 

I have a question though. I'm supposed to use high temp sealant on the pipe connections. Do i have to use it on the outside pipes? I was thinking of not using it on the outside T section so I can remove it for cleaning out the pipes in the future. 

I also found a stove store not far from here that sells 100% oak pellets with no bark at $250 a ton.


----------



## bogieb (Oct 27, 2016)

No, you don't need to seal the outside pipes. Use RTV on the stove appliance adapter (if you have to use one), then use silicone self-sealing tape on the rest of the joints that are inside the house.


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 27, 2016)

I would atleast aluminum tape the outside joints to keep water out.

250 is about the going rate for hardwoods


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 27, 2016)

I could not find the tape anywhere. I may have to order online.


----------



## pete7713 (Oct 27, 2016)

i got the tape at home depot

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-T...sing-Silicone-Tape-in-Black-1208952/100206050


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 27, 2016)

Stage 1 is done. The 48x36 pad was a perfect fit. Out little kitty is inspecting it to make sure it's up to code. 






Tmw I cut a big hole in my wall.


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 27, 2016)

pete7713 said:


> i got the tape at home depot
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-T...sing-Silicone-Tape-in-Black-1208952/100206050



I must've missed it. Now I see it tells me which aisle it's in. (sigh). 

Thanks!


----------



## rich2500 (Oct 27, 2016)

Pad looks good like that.remember measure twice cut once


----------



## bogieb (Oct 28, 2016)

pete7713 said:


> i got the tape at home depot
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-T...sing-Silicone-Tape-in-Black-1208952/100206050



Also at a lot of local hardware stores (either Nashua brand or X-treme tape). NOT usually found in the heating aisle, but in the generic tape aisle. You may even get your pick of colors.


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 28, 2016)

bogieb said:


> Also at a lot of local hardware stores (either Nashua brand or X-treme tape). NOT usually found in the heating aisle, but in the generic tape aisle. You may even get your pick of colors.



That's what I thought when I went to Lowe's. I checked the tape aisle and they had lots of painter's tape, duct tape, etc  but nothing for high temp except this foil tape rated for below freezing and up to 300 degrees. It was $15 for a 2.5 x 100 roll and I couldn't justify buying that much tape. Some of the shelves were completely empty with no labels so I guess they were in the process of doing a mod(change up) in that section.


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 28, 2016)

Ok so I ran into a problem. It appears there are studs on both sides right in the direct path of the vent. My stud finder is also telling me there are wires behind the wall too. I'd have to push the stove forward quite a bit in order to get clearance for the 7" hole but then the pad will no longer fit in the corner and the stove will be too far forward and look out of place.

It's funny how the pictures in the manual show the exhaust vent on the right side of the stove but it's actually on the left. If it were on the right side then everything would be fine. 

Not sure how I'm going to do this.


----------



## bogieb (Oct 28, 2016)

mudeprived said:


> It's funny how the pictures in the manual show the exhaust vent on the right side of the stove but it's actually on the left. If it were on the right side then everything would be fine.
> 
> Not sure how I'm going to do this.



I looked up the manual, and sure enough clearance pictures show the exhaust port on the right. Only if you happen to pay attention to Figure 8, that shows the intake and outtake positions, and the following pictures for the ventilation examples do you question that.

You may be able to use a series of elbows - I had to do that to keep my exhaust away from a window and electrical outlet. You can't see the connections, but this picture shows that my exhaust is offset to the left of my stove - and my stove's exhaust is on the right side.


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 28, 2016)

bogieb said:


> I looked up the manual, and sure enough clearance pictures show the exhaust port on the right. Only if you happen to pay attention to Figure 8, that shows the intake and outtake positions, and the following pictures for the ventilation examples do you question that.
> 
> You may be able to use a series of elbows - I had to do that to keep my exhaust away from a window and electrical outlet. You can't see the connections, but this picture shows that my exhaust is offset to the left of my stove - and my stove's exhaust is on the right side.
> 
> View attachment 186773



I have a stud right in that spot where your exhaust goes through the wall. There's also another one 8" to the right of it. It's a weird setup of studs. I think I may have found a solution though. If I go out of the stove with a straight section of pipe and then the 45 bend to the left wall then it will go between the studs. The only downside is it's exiting the street side of the house, which technically is the back of my house. I also planned to have a deck there in the future.

I gotta fiddle around with it some more and see what I can come up with.


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 28, 2016)

So I messed around with this all day and there's just no way of making it work in the corner unless I cut a stud. No combination of bends can get the correct angle to exit the wall. 


edit:

............until the fiance suggested moving the stove to the right a bit. So we did that and it lined up. I told her that's actually a good idea because I have the left side of the pad for the steel pellet bucket I plan to use. A win for the lady.


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 29, 2016)

bogieb said:


> I looked up the manual, and sure enough clearance pictures show the exhaust port on the right. Only if you happen to pay attention to Figure 8, that shows the intake and outtake positions, and the following pictures for the ventilation examples do you question that.
> 
> You may be able to use a series of elbows - I had to do that to keep my exhaust away from a window and electrical outlet. You can't see the connections, but this picture shows that my exhaust is offset to the left of my stove - and my stove's exhaust is on the right side.
> 
> View attachment 186773



Hey BogieB I have a question regarding that stove in your picture. My vent is pretty much the same but going the opposite direction. Do you disconnect the vent behind the stove in order to clean it out every now and then or is that not needed? My vent is really tight the way it is and the only way to disconnect it in the back is by removing the vent from the stove's rear exhaust pipe but that will have high temp sealant on it.


----------



## Lake Girl (Oct 29, 2016)

bags said:


> ... I also sprung for a new NC-30 wood stove on a spring sale which I have not put in yet. I have to keep the Boss Lady calm with my burning habits around here. Seems every year I buy some new wood / pellet burning toy. Guess i'm a junkie.
> 
> I plan to finish stuff up here finally and get the new wood stove in also. I bought it mainly for backup for the pellet stoves. I fell a few months ago and was laid up badly. I broke both ankles and my right heel so I have been out of commission. I am walking again now and out of my casts so I'm looking forward to getting busy here.
> 
> Shoot us some pics when you get that new Serenity in. Get it running and tell us what you think. Good Luck


Hope your healing well and doing the PT like they are telling you!  And yes, you are a burning junkie... still giving your lady fits I see.  Two Harmans aren't enough??


----------



## bogieb (Oct 29, 2016)

mudeprived said:


> Hey BogieB I have a question regarding that stove in your picture. My vent is pretty much the same but going the opposite direction. Do you disconnect the vent behind the stove in order to clean it out every now and then or is that not needed? My vent is really tight the way it is and the only way to disconnect it in the back is by removing the vent from the stove's rear exhaust pipe but that will have high temp sealant on it.



No, I don't disconnect it. I have a cleanout at the bottom of the angle so any soot that may settle, goes there instead. I also use the Leaf Blower Trick (LBT so I haven't had any crud stick at the opening. Here are pics of my pipe and a closer up of where the clean out is.


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 29, 2016)

bogieb said:


> No, I don't disconnect it. I have a cleanout at the bottom of the angle so any soot that may settle, goes there instead. I also use the Leaf Blower Trick (LBT so I haven't had any crud stick at the opening. Here are pics of my pipe and a closer up of where the clean out is.
> 
> View attachment 186855
> View attachment 186856



Ok that makes more sense to me and I'll do it that way. Did you have a clean out T outside or just a 90?


----------



## bogieb (Oct 29, 2016)

mudeprived said:


> Ok that makes more sense to me and I'll do it that way. Did you have a clean out T outside or just a 90?


Mine just goes straight out. I do have a 45 on the end angled so that the prevailing wind doesn't go straight thru. No, I don't have optimum rise for drafting with only about a foot rise inside. But if power goes out my UPS will allow my stove time to go into shut down mode and to evacuate any smoke. I don't know if your stove will do that, so if you can give it more rise outside I would. In that case, it might not be a bad idea to put a cleanout outside too.


----------



## Lake Girl (Oct 29, 2016)

I have a 3' horizontal only with a turbo cap ... I've been standing next to it when power went off and all I've seen is a wisp of smoke like putting out a candle. Maybe so little due to the OAK but not a big concern with our stove.  The smoke alarm gets triggered more from the toaster than the pellet stove


----------



## mudeprived (Oct 30, 2016)

Thanks for the responses.

I'm going to put a rise outside but not very high because my ladder can't reach much further than the thimble. My yard angles down and levels with the basement floor so the living room is 7 feet off the ground and thimble is at around 9 feet up. I had a few close calls when the sawzall got caught and almost tossed me off the ladder. lol

What kind of UPC you got Bogieb?

I have plans to get a 4000w generator from Home Depot or one of those Predator Gens from HF. We just had the power go out last week and I had to run some things off my inverter that was hooked up to my jeep's battery. It's only 1k watts though. It was funny seeing neighbors slow down as they drove by and noticed my house was the only one with electricity. lol


----------



## bogieb (Oct 30, 2016)

mudeprived said:


> What kind of UPC you got Bogieb?
> 
> I have plans to get a 4000w generator from Home Depot or one of those Predator Gens from HF. We just had the power go out last week and I had to run some things off my inverter that was hooked up to my jeep's battery. It's only 1k watts though. It was funny seeing neighbors slow down as they drove by and noticed my house was the only one with electricity. lol



I have an APC BE750G on each of my stoves (you can usually get from Amazon for about $80 - if they are more expensive, wait a week and there will be a sale - or try Newegg). That is one of a couple that are certified by Harman to work as expected with their stoves; i.e., trigger the stove to go into a controlled shutdown mode instead of just having it run for another 15-20 minutes then abruptly getting turned off. As I stated earlier, I have no idea if your stove would do the same. Harman's detect the different sine wave (or some such stuff) and that triggers the controlled shut down.



Lake Girl said:


> I have a 3' horizontal only with a turbo cap ... I've been standing next to it when power went off and all I've seen is a wisp of smoke like putting out a candle. Maybe so little due to the OAK but not a big concern with our stove.  The smoke alarm gets triggered more from the toaster than the pellet stove



My former Hastings would burp out smoke if there was only a power flicker. I mean a power flicker so short that the only reason I knew it happened was I would hear the blower stumble - even with an OAK and new gaskets all the way around. Probably the fact that I have two 90* elbows with only a 15" rise (at about a 25-30* angle) and 2' horizontal has something to do with that. That is the reason I got the UPS to begin with - although in the time it took to switch to using the battery power (yeah, that .0015 seconds), it would still belch smoke. Don't have that issue with the P43, but why chance smoke in a true outage if I don't have to? I also put a UPS on the P61a, even though it has 5-6' rise (at about a 60* angle) as well as an OAK. It should vent well sans power, but $80 is cheap insurance as far as I am concerned.


----------



## erzeez77 (Oct 31, 2016)

Enjoy reading this thread. This was me 3 falls ago.


----------



## mudeprived (Nov 2, 2016)

Hey guys i'm almost done with the install and quite excited. I have one last question. Should I be concerned with the power line? It's about 1.5 feet away (the cable closest is actually the metal support cable). The vent is actually below the line level so I was thinking it is ok. If this is not a good setup then I'll go straight up above the roof with a Vertical cap.


----------



## bogieb (Nov 3, 2016)

I'm thinking that those power lines constitute a "combustible". Does the pipe manufacturer and/or stove require further than 1.5' away from the center of the vent cap (my manual states 3' to combustibles to front, sides and below)?  However, it also states 12" clearance under a veranda, porch/deck etc. is 12".

If you are getting this inspected by the town and/or your insurance agent, it might be best to discuss it with them because it doesn't matter what a manual says, but what they will okay.


----------



## mudeprived (Nov 3, 2016)

bogieb said:


> I'm thinking that those power lines constitute a "combustible". Does the pipe manufacturer and/or stove require further than 1.5' away from the center of the vent cap (my manual states 3' to combustibles to front, sides and below)?  However, it also states 12" clearance under a veranda, porch/deck etc. is 12".
> 
> If you are getting this inspected by the town and/or your insurance agent, it might be best to discuss it with them because it doesn't matter what a manual says, but what they will okay.



It says Minimum 2' from any Adjacent Building. Minimum 2' above any grass, plant, or combustible material. Minimum 1' clearance from combustible wall.

I don't think the 2' above combustible applies here because the vent is actually under the power line and there's nothing below it that's combustible.


My insurance company approved of the use of the pellet stove and did not require any inspection as long as proper procedures were followed. I will email them to see what they say about this.


----------



## Lake Girl (Nov 3, 2016)

If that line is a concern, you could remove one of the small sections of venting to drop the height down.  Is there a minimum height in the manual?


----------



## mudeprived (Nov 3, 2016)

At least 3 ft is recommended in the manual. Does the 1 foot vertical pipe behind the stove count towards the total?


----------



## Lake Girl (Nov 3, 2016)

You've got 3-1/2 outside?  Yes the 1' inside counts too.


----------



## mudeprived (Nov 3, 2016)

Yeah 3.5 outside and 1 inside. 

I emailed Penn Power and asked about clearances and they sent me a pdf explaining everything required regarding power lines and it mentioned nothing about fire place exhaust clearance. Only buildings, trees, swimming pools, etc.


----------



## bags (Nov 4, 2016)

You could also possibly spin your end cap say 45 degrees away from the lines shooting down still to direct the exhaust away a bit better while still retaining rain and weather integrity. Just throwing out another on the fly thought. 

But as Lake Girl said you could lose a section of pipe and still likely have natural draw for power outages. The exhaust is powered anyway. The vertical is mainly suggested for smoke to continue to escape for a power failure. 

This can also be addresses with a UPS which supplies battery power for proper shut down. You have many options and "IF" you are 2 feet below the lines then you are good. That said I'd consider an imaginary circle of 2 feet in all directions like 2 feet out and 2 feet up etc; I really do not think you have a huge concern. The exhaust is only hotter right out of the end and as it immediately mixes with cold air just out a bit it feels like a dryer vent exhaust type heat or hot air. Just follow minimum recommendations for venting in your manual.


----------



## mudeprived (Nov 4, 2016)

bags said:


> You could also possibly spin your end cap say 45 degrees away from the lines shooting down still to direct the exhaust away a bit better while still retaining rain and weather integrity. Just throwing out another on the fly thought.
> 
> But as Lake Girl said you could lose a section of pipe and still likely have natural draw for power outages. The exhaust is powered anyway. The vertical is mainly suggested for smoke to continue to escape for a power failure.
> 
> This can also be addresses with a UPS which supplies battery power for proper shut down. You have many options and "IF" you are 2 feet below the lines then you are good. That said I'd consider an imaginary circle of 2 feet in all directions like 2 feet out and 2 feet up etc; I really do not think you have a huge concern. The exhaust is only hotter right out of the end and as it immediately mixes with cold air just out a bit it feels like a dryer vent exhaust type heat or hot air. Just follow minimum recommendations for venting in your manual.



I will be purchasing a UPC and Generator and I'll drop it down a foot then. It should be fine until. 

The stove is done and ready and it's time for project #2: The pellet hauler. I have a 2001 Cherokee that is down for repairs and i'm working around the clock to get it running again so I can have it to haul the tons of pellets I will need. It's just my luck that my other wrangler's brake line exploded and lost all brakes so that one is useless as well. All we have is this small silver Hyundai car that she won't let me use.  

Thanks for all the help you guys gave me. I will update this once I have pellets and it's fired up!


----------



## bogieb (Nov 4, 2016)

I would treat it as if it were a tree - power lines are considered combustibles, so I would err on the side of caution.


mudeprived said:


> . I have a 2001 Cherokee that is down for repairs and i'm working around the clock to get it running again so I can have it to haul the tons of pellets I will need. It's just my luck that my other wrangler's brake line exploded and lost all brakes so that one is useless as well. All we have is this small silver Hyundai car that she won't let me use.  !



I don't blame her -You've broken all your toys, she doesn't want hers to be next


----------



## mudeprived (Nov 4, 2016)

bogieb said:


> I don't blame her -You've broken all your toys, she doesn't want hers to be next


----------



## bags (Nov 4, 2016)

Hey I do not advise this but yesterday afternoon I was hauling 16 - 19 bags at a time on my Honda 420 Rancher quad from the barn to the garage. I did 19 bags once on front and rear racks. It worked fine but the Honda was waaayyy over loaded. 19 x 40 = 760 lbs. 

It was beyond weight limits and maxed out but all I had to do was roll 100 yards. I usually use my tractor with the front loader and a carry all on the back but I have it on jack stands doing maintenance and had to run some pellets in. Plus I wanted to see what I could be dumb enough to do pushing stuff a bit. The quad was easy and I'm walking now but limited as I just got out of two casts with two broken ankles and a broken heel.

Had to get a bit dangerous and industrious at the same time......


----------



## mudeprived (Nov 4, 2016)

bags said:


> Hey I do not advise this but yesterday afternoon I was hauling 16 - 19 bags at a time on my Honda 420 Rancher quad from the barn to the garage. I did 19 bags once on front and rear racks. It worked fine but the Honda was waaayyy over loaded. 19 x 40 = 760 lbs.
> 
> It was beyond weight limits and maxed out but all I had to do was roll 100 yards. I usually use my tractor with the front loader and a carry all on the back but I have it on jack stands doing maintenance and had to run some pellets in. Plus I wanted to see what I could be dumb enough to do pushing stuff a bit. The quad was easy and I'm walking now but limited as I just got out of two casts with two broken ankles and a broken heel.
> 
> Had to get a bit dangerous and industrious at the same time......



Hope you are healing alright. That sounds painful!

That is why I think she won't let me use the car and it's pretty new so she don't want it dirty. Luckily it's going to be in the 50's and 60's for the next week or two and I should have the cherokee up and running by then. I installed HD suspension lift kit on it so I know it can handle anything I throw at it. I really need to buy a trailer though. Heck I need everything!


----------



## rich2500 (Nov 4, 2016)

Ah come on, gonna be chilly tonight run out and grab a bag or two and fire that puppy up.


----------



## mudeprived (Nov 4, 2016)

rich2500 said:


> Ah come on, gonna be chilly tonight run out and grab a bag or two and fire that puppy up.



Tempted but not yet dude. I'd feel better taking my newly rebuilt jeep out to bring home a ton and sit back and enjoy the fire while thinking about what it took to get that fire.


----------



## rich2500 (Nov 10, 2016)

you fire the Serenity yet


----------



## bags (Nov 10, 2016)

Hey Thanks Y'all! I am healing up well but it has been a long drawn out process. Yes it hurt for quite awhile. Especially while I was in the hospital and the first few weeks at home. I am now out of the casts and off of my crutches getting around fairly well but nowhere near 100%.

I have fired my P68 as needed mainly at night for awhile or in the morning a couple of hours. I didn't run it last night but did fire it up this morning to knock off the chill and hang with the pup. The Boss Lady wanted an Australian Shepard so we picked one up. He's a character. Almost human like in many ways. He is a very different dog than others and has some very unique mannerisms. It's her baby.

Can't wait to see the Serenity fired up. It's coming soon but I don't blame you for holding out as long as possible. When I heated primarily with wood I held out sometimes way too long. LOL! Now with the ease of the pellet stove and pressure from my chilled wife I cave easily. Enjoying mine now!

Get some good pics up when you do fire that bad boy up. We dig pics around here. Good Luck & Stay Warm, Jesse or Bags < nickname I've had since around the 2-3rd grade.


----------



## mudeprived (Nov 10, 2016)

Not yet but soon. Still wrenching on the pellet-hauler jeep. Turns out the alternator was seized and not allowing the belt to spin and battery to drain. I'm estimating maybe two more days and I'll be off to get some pellets.


----------



## mudeprived (Nov 17, 2016)

Hey guys got a question for another off road member who purchased the same Serenity stove. His location is at 4000+ feet and he was unaware of the need for 4" pipe when he was installing it so he just left the 3" vent and been using it. It burns well and all but he said the vent pipe gets extremely hot and he cannot lay his hand on it or it will, in his words,  "burn the s#$! out of me". 

Is the exhaust vent supposed to be this hot or is this normal?


----------



## bags (Nov 17, 2016)

mudeprived said:


> Hey guys got a question for another off road member who purchased the same Serenity stove. His location is at 4000+ feet and he was unaware of the need for 4" pipe when he was installing it so he just left the 3" vent and been using it. It burns well and all but he said the vent pipe gets extremely hot and he cannot lay his hand on it or it will, in his words,  "burn the s#$! out of me".
> 
> Is the exhaust vent supposed to be this hot or is this normal?



Probably...... Rich is the Serenity guru around here so check with him. The exhaust vent will get too hot to touch on my Harman P68 & P45. I never touch it but have gone out and pulled my termination elbow off for a clean and it had not cooled down much before I started.

I had to put gloves on to handle it and that was outside. That said all exhaust 3-4 inch vent gets hot, hot. As long as it is installed correctly with a wall thimble and proper clearance to combustibles he should be fine. Think of the exhaust pipes on motorcycles. They get hot as hell too.

Not sure about the 4 inch that has been done with 3 inch on his stove. Like I said Rich is the go to guy on the Serenity stoves around here. so see what he thinks.


----------



## rich2500 (Nov 17, 2016)

See this thread
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/pellet-stove-install-check.157564/


----------



## mudeprived (Nov 17, 2016)

Oh that's him. LOL

Thanks.


----------



## Lake Girl (Nov 17, 2016)

At the higher elevation with 3", he may want to reduce the venting to the bare minimum required for his install just to ease restriction.  He should keep an eye on ash accumulation ... may require more frequent cleaning.

lol, just saw that it was his post Rich referred to...


----------



## mudeprived (Nov 18, 2016)

So today I went to Tractor Supply to see what kind of pellets they have and decided to buy a ton. They charged me $167. I asked twice if that was right and they said it was on sale so....sure!

Loaded 3/4 of it in my lifted cherokee and then realized my springs were about to be inverted so I hauled that home and returned for the rest. Then I went back for another ton cuz at that price it's a steal, right? I went to the register and showed em my receipt and asked for another ton. They looked at the receipt in a confusing manner and said something is wrong with this (new girl was probably confused). They called the manager over and she said it was a mistake. They charged me for 40 bags at $167 when it should've been $259 for 50 bags. Then I said "let me pay for the 10 bags that I was not charged for and call it good." So I paid the $51 for the 10 bags they missed and did not pick up another ton since it was at regular price. Still a good deal though. $218 for a ton. 

It's supposed to snow in two days so I'm about ready to fire this thing up. Any tips to dialing it in?


----------



## rich2500 (Nov 18, 2016)

If you read through the current thread Castle Serenity lots of ash, most of the dialing in is covered in there.


----------



## mudeprived (Nov 18, 2016)

rich2500 said:


> If you read through the current thread Castle Serenity lots of ash, most of the dialing in is covered in there.



Thanks!


----------



## mudeprived (Nov 19, 2016)

Ok so I read through that thread and the manual (twice) and got a good idea of what to do. One question though: Why are there five Stall Voltages in blower and exhaust settings?

Hopefully this lasts me for a while...


----------



## mudeprived (Nov 19, 2016)

Well I tried to start it up but noticed smoke coming out of the top vents. I shut it down. It did not get a chance to ignite.  I'm not sure what's going on.


----------



## rich2500 (Nov 19, 2016)

mudeprived said:


> Ok so I read through that thread and the manual (twice) and got a good idea of what to do. One question though: Why are there five Stall Voltages in blower and exhaust settings?
> 
> Hopefully this lasts me for a while...
> 
> ...



the stalls are because you can adjust the the blower settings for each individual heat level. those are pro pellets correct, herd they are decent pellets


----------



## mudeprived (Nov 19, 2016)

rich2500 said:


> the stalls are because you can adjust the the blower settings for each individual heat level. those are pro pellets correct, herd they are decent pellets



Oh I see now. I saw when I turned it on that there were 5 levels of heat and kinda figured they were related.

Yeah Pro Pellets. We have a Fireplace store about 13 miles away that carry 100% oak (no bark) pellets for $250 a ton and they swear by them but TS is right down the road and I figured I'd try their stuff first since it's close.


----------



## mudeprived (Nov 23, 2016)

I'm trying to register the stove on the website but I'm not sure where the Serial Number is. I see two possible numbers on the back. One with WHI before it and another set of numbers(alot) near the bottom on a white sticker next to some other digits.


----------



## rich2500 (Nov 23, 2016)

serial # should be 6 numbers attached on a tag with manufacture date, unfortunately I don't remember exactly where it's located


----------



## mudeprived (Jan 2, 2017)

Just a little update and question...

Stove's running great. I'm starting to have mixed feelings about the Tractor Supply pellets. I seem to get lots of ash and dust now that I'm running it longer. I'm going to switch to Agway's pellets since a friend of mine said they are way better (her father is a stove seller). We'll see. I got about 22 bags left before I can get another ton.

The question is regarding the Serenity's door seal. It wraps around and both ends meet at the bottom right in the middle. Every time I open the door it appears those two ends, that were once secured together, are slowly separating. Now there's a 1/2" gap of frayed string/material that I have to keep messing with so it keeps a seal. I dunno if anyone experienced this but that little gap is making me nervous. Is there a quick fix for it or should I buy a full seal and redo it?

I run the stove when I'm home and sleeping but I shut it off when I go to work since it's been relatively cool (40's) and the house maintains a 64 degree temp without it so I find myself opening the door to clean out ash on a nightly basis.


----------



## rich2500 (Jan 2, 2017)

Before you go to work use hi temp sealant on the gasket ends, goop it up pretty good and put a piece of wax paper in between the door gasket and stove and shut the door, remove the wax paper when you get home from work.


----------



## mudeprived (Jan 3, 2017)

rich2500 said:


> Before you go to work use hi temp sealant on the gasket ends, goop it up pretty good and put a piece of wax paper in between the door gasket and stove and shut the door, remove the wax paper when you get home from work.



Thanks. I will try that.


----------



## mudeprived (Feb 11, 2017)

Well how about that!? Electric bill was $48 this month. That's a huge drop from the average $200+ bill of last year. 

This stove rocks!


----------



## bogieb (Feb 11, 2017)

Nice!


----------

