# Do you have an Atlanta Stoveworks Box #27?



## VCBurner

I have one of these in my fireplace.  It was given to me by a friend.  The thing was a ball of rust!  But after hours of grinding, cementing and polishing it was ready to heat!!  It's not and airtight stove but looks neat as an antique. It works a lot better than the fireplace alone and keeps the room nice and toasty.  I put a log in it (unsplit) the other day at 2pm and it burned until 9pm This would probably put some modern stoves to shame.  I was wondering if anyone else may have one of these hooked up.  I've tried to search online for pics or original owner's manual and didn't succed.  If you have one contact me!  Just curious.


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## VCBurner

VCBurner said:
			
		

> I have one of these in my fireplace.  It was given to me by a friend.  The thing was a ball of rust!  But after hours of grinding, cementing and polishing it was ready to heat!!  It's not and airtight stove but looks neat as an antique. It works a lot better than the fireplace alone and keeps the room nice and toasty.  I put a log in it (unsplit) the other day at 2pm and it burned until 9pm This would probably put some modern stoves to shame.  I was wondering if anyone else may have one of these hooked up.  I've tried to search online for pics or original owner's manual and didn't succed.  If you have one contact me!  Just curious.



January 5th, 2010.  I'm keeping the house warm with the little Box #27.  It was 13 degrees outside/68 inside this morning when my wife stated it at 7:30am.  It's now 71 and climbing.


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## cleithau

How would you rate the Atlanta 27 box stove? Sounds pretty good from what you have described? My sister has a chance to get one for $125. What kind of burn time are you getting with it. She will be heating a mobile home, 16x80, but it has a real hearth, duroc, with tile over it, to code for real houses.

My dad bought a Vermont Castings Vigilant but her chimney is only 6 inch so its not getting enough draft and the room gets real smoky. Also the stove is so low to the floor the tile under it gets extremely hot.


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## Fsappo

VCBurner said:
			
		

> VCBurner said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have one of these in my fireplace.  It was given to me by a friend.  The thing was a ball of rust!  But after hours of grinding, cementing and polishing it was ready to heat!!  It's not and airtight stove but looks neat as an antique. It works a lot better than the fireplace alone and keeps the room nice and toasty.  I put a log in it (unsplit) the other day at 2pm and it burned until 9pm This would probably put some modern stoves to shame.  I was wondering if anyone else may have one of these hooked up.  I've tried to search online for pics or original owner's manual and didn't succed.  If you have one contact me!  Just curious.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> January 5th, 2010.  I'm keeping the house warm with the little Box #27.  It was 13 degrees outside/68 inside this morning when my wife stated it at 7:30am.  It's now 71 and climbing.
Click to expand...


Enjoy that little stove.  Keep having fun with it while it keeps you warm.


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## VCBurner

Jotul118Michigan said:
			
		

> How would you rate the Atlanta 27 box stove? Sounds pretty good from what you have described? My sister has a chance to get one for $125. What kind of burn time are you getting with it. She will be heating a mobile home, 16x80, but it has a real hearth, duroc, with tile over it, to code for real houses.
> 
> My dad bought a Vermont Castings Vigilant but her chimney is only 6 inch so its not getting enough draft and the room gets real smoky. Also the stove is so low to the floor the tile under it gets extremely hot.



"For a small camp stove it's not too bad.  It was given to me for free.  That's always a good price.  If you look around craigslist you can find a better deal.  I like the stove primarily to take the chill off the livingroom.  It is capable of heating more space but is installed in a fireplace, where it doesn't get to radiate in an open space like it's made to do.  You can sometimes find the newer EPA stoves, rated to heat up to 1000 ft, for under $200.  They are small and safer for mobil homes because of low clearance to combustibles.  Whatever she decides to buy should be rated to be in a mobile home.  Try searching for small Epa stove or small wood stoves on: http://www.searchtempest.com/  you should be able to find somethig safer and more efficient, for a that price. Good luck!"


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## VCBurner

VCBurner said:
			
		

> Jotul118Michigan said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How would you rate the Atlanta 27 box stove? Sounds pretty good from what you have described? My sister has a chance to get one for $125. What kind of burn time are you getting with it. She will be heating a mobile home, 16x80, but it has a real hearth, duroc, with tile over it, to code for real houses.
> 
> My dad bought a Vermont Castings Vigilant but her chimney is only 6 inch so its not getting enough draft and the room gets real smoky. Also the stove is so low to the floor the tile under it gets extremely hot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "For a small camp stove it's not too bad.  It was given to me for free.  That's always a good price.  If you look around craigslist you can find a better deal.  I like the stove primarily to take the chill off the livingroom.  It is capable of heating more space but is installed in a fireplace, where it doesn't get to radiate in an open space like it's made to do.  You can sometimes find the newer EPA stoves, rated to heat up to 1000 ft, for under $200.  They are small and safer for mobil homes because of low clearance to combustibles.  Whatever she decides to buy should be rated to be in a mobile home.  Try searching for small Epa stove or small wood stoves on: http://www.searchtempest.com/  you should be able to find somethig safer and more efficient, for a that price. Good luck!"
Click to expand...


My dad bought a Vermont Castings Vigilant but her chimney is only 6 inch so its not getting enough draft and the room gets real smoky. Also the stove is so low to the floor the tile under it gets extremely hot.[/quote]

"Tell her to open the damper and the air intake for a couple minutes before openning the doors.  This should get all the smoke up the flue so she doesn't get smoke coming into the house when the doors are open. She also shouldn't use the spark screen to view the fire unless it's connected to an 8" chimney. "


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## thomis

VC Burner,

When we moved into our house back in 2005, I was pleased to find an old woodstove buried in the cinderblock shed that came with the property. It was neglected for years and was rusted very badly due to the roof leaking where the flue goes up through. It has a 6 inch stovepipe coming off the stove and then right before it goes into the rafters of the shed it goes to a double wall, about 6" inside and 8" out. I repaired the roof leak and began using the stove the first winter. Laying in the corner of the shed was the lid lifter, a poker and a clean-out shovel, all appear to go with the stove. You can see the poker in the picture hanging on a shelf bracket. And it does indeed say Atlanta Stove Works #27 box on the front door. It works like a champ and I love it. I have no idea how old it is. The house and shed were built in 1965 and the house is built on an old farm. My neighbor said the shed used to be the hangout/ meeting spot for the old deer hunting club back in the day. I've continued the tradition of using the shed for deer skinning


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## FireAnt

Atlanta 27 Box here to. The place my dad keeps his horse at, had one for many years and when the people that owned it left he went on a hunt for one. He got one for $100. The thing is amazing and cranks out the heat. I told my dad if he leaves there he better take the stove! I will try to get a picture of it.


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## VCBurner

Welcome aboard Thomis!  Thank you for posting Fireant!  Great to see two other Atlanta Stoveworks owners!   Funny thing is, I posted this thread a month ago (January 4th) and had almost given up the hope of finding another # 27 owner.  Today, I got posts from two owners!  I've only been a hearth member for a month, but have spent a great deal of time on this site.  I'm laid off, so this woodheating endeavor has helped keep me sane.  Between the wood cutting, splitting, stove research and taking care of heating the house I have little time to feel insane since getting laid off two months ago.  I've saved well over a thousand dollars in heating costs since hooking up the two stoves in my house.  This puts the icing on the cake.  I've done some part time tree work and gotten paid handsomely for it, as well as adding to my wood supply.  You can't beat the benefits of woodheating.  Beyond the savings and health benefits, there is also a sence of independence that comes with providing for your self.  

As far as the stove, I've tried to do some research on Atlanta Stoveworks and have found very little about the company, aside from the fact that it's out of business.  The parts cannot be purchased as far as I know.  Do either of you know otherwise?  Not that I need parts, it's more of a curiosity factor playing a part in this search.  I've found specs on stoves very similar to this and foud that they can put out as much as 97,000 btu's! You need a big clearance on the back and side of this unit.  But the front ashpan, I find, doesn't get too hot.  My stove has the date 1936 cast on the underside of the firebox and 1935 on another part.  I take it these parts were made in those years.  I don't know when they stopped production on these stoves, but it would be nice to find out.  This is not our primary stove.  I have it installed in a fireplace in the living room, which I feel is not the way to maximize its heating capabilities. Its only job is to take the chill off the living room when it's really cold outside.  I think it would do much better when completely freestanding, like the way Thomis has in his shed.  By the way,  I think it's a cool looking shed.  My kind of place.  We have come to love this stove, my wife has gone as far as to state that she will never get rid of it, she'd rather display it as a decoration.  There's somethig about its simplicity that draws you in and makes you think of times when these were the only things people heated with.  I think, once I get a different stove for the fireplace, I'll put it in my shed and make it a place where I can get away from it all.  Whatever happens to it, it will always remain in my memory as my first stove. 

Didn't mean to get all philosophical on you!   I'd love to see some pics of your stove Fireant!  Here are some of mine.  Thanks for the post guys and burn on!


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## VCBurner

Thomis, pretty cool that you had a lid tool as well as a poker and raker.  I wonder if they came with the stove?  I also wonder if the door originally came with a handle?


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## thomis

Hmmm. I'll have to look mine over and see if I can find a date stamped on it somewhere. 
I hate to hear about people laid off. I was there a couple years ago and man, its really tough a man wanting to work and not being able to. I did the same as you keep busy doing what you can around the house. I got back into woodworking and built some tables and an entertainment center. Now I'm working again, my wife wonders where her woodworker went! I just don't have time for it.
Yeah, I am grateful for my shed. I don't get to spend as much time there as I want but its there when I need it! It was a disaster when I moved in. The stove was buried in old furniture parts, etc. It was a jewel waiting to be discovered. I don't think it had a handle. Its just basically a metal tab on that I grab with leather gloves to open. I've cooked on mine but it needs to really get going hot to cook on.
Later on!


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## FireAnt

I'll have my dad check for dates on the one at the ranch. I am also giving him my camera t take a shot of it. I have also been out of work since April. I worked with my father at our family company (Fastener Distributor). My wife and I decided it would be cheaper now for me to be a stay at home dad with my 2 year old and 5 year old sons. I went to college majoring in Jazz and Classical saxophone. I teach privately, gig on the side, teach master classes at area schools, and record. It makes a nice side job.
I do all the cooking and cleaning and what not. But now I do the HEATING and wood scrounging and cutting and splitting. I always wanted my parents to get a stove growing up but my dad was against it. However he buys a stove for the ranch that he boards at...
My NC-13 has been FANTASTIC at heating the house (1400 sq ft ranch). I have not had the heat on upstairs for 3 weeks now. I have a seperate zone in my basement because I have a lot of instruments in my studio so the heat has to stay on (63) but it is very well insulated from when we finished it. Gotta run and make pancakes for the little guy!

Anthony


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## VCBurner

> My wife and I decided it would be cheaper now for me to be a stay at home dad with my 2 year old and 5 year old sons.


Hey Ant, really cool to hear that!  I really treasure the times when I'm laid off.  You couldn't put a price on having this kind of time with your family.


> I have also been out of work since April


Yeah, I was laid of for 5 months in 2008, 6 months in 2009 and will continue to be until, hopefully EARLY spring.  As a union carpenter, I get used to having a little down time, especially during the holidays, it's nice to spend  time with the family.  But the last two years have been brutal!  Last year, I had more time out than in and lost my health insurance for the first time in 10 years.  Luckily, in homebuilding/remodeling there's always sidework to be done.  I keep the money coming in as much as possible.


> My NC-13 has been FANTASTIC at heating the house (1400 sq ft ranch).


I was thinking of picking one of these up for the living room.  I hear the Home Depot has them on sale around this time of the year.  How long of a burn do you get out of it?  Also, I don't know if it would fit in there:  the height of the fireplace is only 26.5".  How tall is the top of the flue flange on it?


> Gotta run and make pancakes for the little guy!


I drive my 3 older boys( 5, 8 and 9) to school, go to DnD to get coffee for the wife and I, then cook breakfast for us and my three year old Johnny every day.  Then watch Ellen and usually go cut wood.  Being laid off has some benefits, I really enjoy this routine.  Beats getting up @ 4am and traveling to Boston to work at 6am, every day (I've done a lot of work out there, lots of commercial jobs...)




> Hmmm. I’ll have to look mine over and see if I can find a date stamped on it somewhere.


Hey Thomis, I took the rust off mine with a wire cup and brush on a 4" grinder.  The date was sort of small under the bottom of the firebox, toward the back, I think.  There was another dated part, but I can't recall now where it was!  We leave a tea pot on ours and it gets pretty hot at times.  I think the rear burner would be great for cooking if we could access it.  We really crank it up when we want fast heat in the living room.  I really like that shed though.  My work shop is in my lower garage located in the walk out portion of the basement, there's no stove there.  As you read above, I can't wait to get back to work, but it's not always bad.  Can't live without that green though!

Take care guys and burn on!


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## FireAnt

I was thinking of picking one of these up for the living room.  I hear the Home Depot has them on sale around this time of the year.  How long of a burn do you get out of it?  Also, I don't know if it would fit in there:  the height of the fireplace is only 26.5".  How tall is the top of the flue flange on it?

26.5 is basically the height of the stove with the legs. My opening is 29". You wouldn't be able to get your hands in there to get the pipe on. You would also lose alot of heat. An insert might be the way to go. You can leave the sides off and they sit lower to the ground. A lot of people on the site have done that. Looks great and it saves space. 


Here are pics of the 27!


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## thomis

cool pics. here's another from over the weekend


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## webbie

Obviously a classic design since many stoves have been exactly copied from it!

The vogelzang boxwood is just one:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_796_796

I used many an Atlanta box stove when I lived in TN and WV.


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## FireAnt

Great shot Thomis!


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## VCBurner

That stove looks like it belongs there!  It goes perfectly in your shop!!  I did some more research on these stoves.  Atlanta had other popular models, one of which was the #26.  It was a Franklin-like fireplace/stove, pretty cool.  The other was the huntsman, I think that was the name. I would love to find an original brochure or an owner's manual.  There was someone on-line who had one w/ its original manual.  But it was a listing from '05 so it's long gone by now!  Great pic Thomis, with the mild weather up here we haven't had the need to fire ours up lately, but I'll burn it again before the end of the season.

Oh, I almost forgot! Check out this CL listing of another #27 that looks to be in pristine condition.  But, $175 seems a little steep.  However, this is probably a better quality cast iron than the newer copies such as the one Craig mentioned.
http://westernmass.craigslist.org/for/1566683330.html


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## boxfulofsanity

Hey all, 
I just came across one of these and am trying to figure out the best way to start a fire that will last in it.
Will the fire keep burning all night if I stock it at 10pm? Or will I probably have to get up in the middle of the night to restock it?

Any help is appreciated. Also, has anyone found the manual for this?

Thanks,
J Farmer


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## smallcabiner

Ihave a 12'x12' cabinIwill beliving in this winter.  The Atlanta 327 seems like a good choice.
Thoough I need to know if it is possible tomake this stove airtight?
Thanks all!


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## Stegman

Hiya folks. 

New member here. 

I just picked up an old Atlanta Stove Works 27 from craigslist for $60. It was in some guy's shed. Spent the last couple of days removing the surface rust with a drill with a wire brush. It cleaned up pretty fast. Next I'm going to hit it with steel wool and WD40. I already did that on one small spot and it looks fantastic. 

This is the first woodstove I've ever tried to restore, and it seems like fun. Messy, but fun. It looks like I'll need to hit it with some furnace cement in a few spots to try to make it airtight. I'm curious if it needs firebricks on the bottom, or perhaps some sand. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. 

Found a parts schematic online, but if anyone has a manual that'd be helpful. 

How old are these stoves, anyway? I saw somewhere that they were from the 1920s or so. Seems about right. The plan is to use this in a small Vermont cabin that we own once we get around to fixing it up.


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## VCBurner

Welcome to Hearth.com smallcabiner and J Farmer!


> smallcabiner Posted: 08 November 2010 06:30 PM
> 
> Ihave a 12â€™x12â€™ cabinIwill beliving in this winter.  The Atlanta 327 seems like a good choice.
> Thoough I need to know if it is possible tomake this stove airtight?
> Thanks all!


They are good little stoves.  However, there are many others I would spend money on if I had to buy one.  I enjoyed this stove while it was in my fireplace but it only assisted the heating of the house and goes through a lot of wood in the process.  As far as making it airtight I don't see a way to do it.  I put some furnace cement in the seams to aid the tightness but it still has places where the air will just come right in.  These weren't made to be airtight.  That being said, I miss burning that little stove.  Once you get attached to something it is hard to forget it.  It is very easy to start and get a draft in with its N/S design, loading is also a breeze.  Have fun heating your cabin with it, fun little stoves.  



> Hey all,
> I just came across one of these and am trying to figure out the best way to start a fire that will last in it.
> Will the fire keep burning all night if I stock it at 10pm? Or will I probably have to get up in the middle of the night to restock it?
> 
> Any help is appreciated. Also, has anyone found the manual for this?
> 
> Thanks,
> J Farmer


Hey J, 
These stoves are not made for long lasting burns.  However, the longest burns I had is when I put a big round on top of a big bed of coals and stuffed it with as many smaller splits around it as I could.  The big round will burn longer and the smaller splits will keep the fire going.  You'll have coals in there and may be able to re-start without a match for up to around 5-6 hours tops.  I used to blow a fan into one side of it to go around the back and harvest as much heat as possible from the inside the masonary fireplace it was in.  I never found a manual for it.
Good luck and have fun heating with it!


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## VCBurner

Stegman said:
			
		

> Hiya folks.
> New member here.
> I just picked up an old Atlanta Stove Works 27 from craigslist for $60. It was in some guy's shed. Spent the last couple of days removing the surface rust with a drill with a wire brush. It cleaned up pretty fast. Next I'm going to hit it with steel wool and WD40. I already did that on one small spot and it looks fantastic.
> This is the first woodstove I've ever tried to restore, and it seems like fun. Messy, but fun. It looks like I'll need to hit it with some furnace cement in a few spots to try to make it airtight. I'm curious if it needs firebricks on the bottom, or perhaps some sand. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
> Found a parts schematic online, but if anyone has a manual that'd be helpful.
> 
> How old are these stoves, anyway? I saw somewhere that they were from the 1920s or so. Seems about right. The plan is to use this in a small Vermont cabin that we own once we get around to fixing it up.



Welcome to the forum Stegman!  
   Thats a good price for it.  Mine was a freebie and I also restored it in a similar way.  One piece of advice:  I would skip the steel wool and WD40 and get a tube of black stove polish.  It's really cheap and easy to put on with a rag.  You can even apply it on some minor rust and it will penetrate it and cover it.  After it dries you can leave it matte black or polish it with  a dry rag for a glossy look. Do some break in fires outside to get rid of the smell before bringing it into the house! 

   As far as the sand.  Some people recommend it, to protect the bottom of the stove from cracking.  Mine was made in 1936 and 1937.  Some parts had the date casted on them as well as the part number.  My stove never had sand on the bottom and it was fine.  They go through quite a bit of wood and gather a protective layer of ash on the bottom quickly.  The only thing I always thought about was trying to protect the sides with some sort of refractory cement or firebricks.  Especially where the sides bolt together around the center.  This is the weakest part of these stoves and the most likely to crack from the heat.  I added furnace cement to the seams and it did not seem to make a great deal of difference in how this stoves burns (as they are not made to be airtight.)  But since you have it out and can easily access to the seams I would do it.  The only thing I would be afraid of is taking it completely appart.  I didn't do it in fear that the long bolts that hold it together would snap and I wouldn't be able to find replacements.  I did replace some of the shorter bolts on it.    

Could you send me a link to the parts schematic?  I was never able to get a hold of a manual.  Though, I read posts on another site from someone who had one for sale about two years ago.  I was unable to contact them.  

Have fun restoring it, take some pictures and post them for us!

If you don't post pictures it's like it never happened.  That's what we say around here!!

Take care, 
Chris


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## Stegman

Chris [Master of Fire]

Thanks for the information. I did take some "before" pics and will happily post them once it's ready for some "after" pics. 

Couple of follow-up questions for you: 

1. I was going to do the cement and try to make it airtight primarily in order to prevent it from smoking up the cabin. But if that's not a big concern, I might forego that. From what you're saying, it sounds like making it airtight is done to improve efficiency. If I don't do the cement, will it emit smoke like crazy? 

2. I was going to do the stove polish, but after I did the once-over with WD-40 and steel wool. Is that overkill? If I can skip the WD-40 step, I'd be more than happy to. 

Here's the the parts scehmatic I found. It comes from searspartsdirect.com, so it might be from some replica stove that was out there. But it looked the same:


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## Stegman

For what it's worth, here's the craigslist photo of the stove I bought:


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## Stegman

Fired up the stove for a test-burn over the weekend:


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## VCBurner

Thanks for the pics Stegman, looks very familiar!  Thanks for the parts schem. also.  It looks like you've done a good job taking off all the rust.  Mine had wore rust damage because it had sat, without the legs, in a basement that got flooded.  These stoves are so fun due to the simplicity and old time feel they bring into a room.  

Now to answer your questions:


> 1. I was going to do the cement and try to make it airtight primarily in order to prevent it from smoking up the cabin. But if thatâ€™s not a big concern, I might forego that. From what youâ€™re saying, it sounds like making it airtight is done to improve efficiency. If I donâ€™t do the cement, will it emit smoke like crazy?


I did not take the stove appart in order to cement the seams.  I just added some to the seams I thought needed it from the outside and inside the stove.  This is not the proper way to cement it. Most of that cement has since fallen off and it did not change the performance of the stove.  I never had noticeable smoke pour into the room from the seams.  The North to South design of this stove makes it draft very easily out of the collar. 


> 2. I was going to do the stove polish, but after I did the once-over with WD-40 and steel wool. Is that overkill? If I can skip the WD-40 step, Iâ€™d be more than happy to.


From what I understand, people used to polish their stoves a couple times per burning season.  This was a common practice for people in the hay day of old non air tight cast iron stoves.  They used to let their stoves cool off on Sundays and polish it in place.  Then open the window nearby to let the smell out when restarting it.  The polish supposedly covers up, penetrates and prevents rust.  You can even apply the polish without removing minor rust and it'll look like new.  So, I guess the answer is, I would just slap one or two coats of polish on it and you're ready for break-in fires.  If you have a piece of stove pipe laying around I'd put it on the stove to do the break in fires outside and you can see that no smoke will leak out of the stove during light off.  Just get a draft going with a piece of newspaper near the stove flue.  

Where are you installing this stove. I see you have two nice Jotuls alredy? Good luck!

What part of Worcester are you in? I'm about 5 minutes from the center of Paxton, on Marshall Street, it's nice to see some more local guys join the ranks!


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## Stegman

Hi VCE. 

We're actually in Sterling. Just moved there over the summer after spending six years in Grafton and five before that in Worcester. My wife and I grew up in Westboro. 

Thanks for the info. During my test burn over the weekend I didn't notice too much smoke coming from the seams - maybe a little out from under the top plate. It was hard to tell because I didn't have any stove pipe around, so the wind may have been causing some optical illusions. It does look like there was a bit of soot left over on the top near the edge of the top plate, so I think I may try to hit that area with some cement. 

What was really interesting to me was how the fire would die down when I closed the front door. Despite it not being an airtight stove, closing the door seemed to choke off the airflow quite a bit. So what I did was remove that middle plate in front that covers what I guess must be some sort of ash-removal compartment. That gives about an inch of clearance under the door. Once I did that I was able to close the door and keep it raging pretty hot.  

This bad boy is ticketed for a small cabin we have up in Vermont that is currently in the process of being spruced up. Based on recent history, it will probably be a couple of years before we're actually able to install and use it. I think in the short-term I'm going to polish it up and slap some cement on it and have a few more outdoor burns. 

I'll post some more pics when it's fully restored to showroom condition.


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## VCBurner

Hey Stegman,
So you're in the Wachussett area, I hope you're ready for the Nor'easter that's coming our way!  I guess we were due to get some considering we've been spared, for the past couple of years really.    12-18" is not too bad I guess.  Anything under 2 feet is do-able around here, right?  The Wachussett school system has already cancelled school so I'll be taking the kids sledding tomorrow. This area is the nicest in the county in my eyes, but we get pounded with the worst weather usually.  You're lucky to have missed the ice storm of 08,  we were hit really badly :ahhh: !  Having the stoves will certainly help  . Good luck tomorrow.



> What was really interesting to me was how the fire would die down when I closed the front door. Despite it not being an airtight stove, closing the door seemed to choke off the airflow quite a bit. So what I did was remove that middle plate in front that covers what I guess must be some sort of ash-removal compartment. That gives about an inch of clearance under the door. Once I did that I was able to close the door and keep it raging pretty hot.


 

The only reason why the fire died down was lack of draft, due to not having a stack on top of the stove.  The soot left around the top edge was probably there due to the smoke that was trying to escape out of the sides at the end of the fire.  Again, a stack would prevent that.  The ash pan cover also serves as the air intake.  Close it partially and you get less air, open it all the way and *watch out*!  Especially when it is connected to a chimney!  Thery are really easy to operate.  However, I would certainly recommend a pipe damper on this stove, as they don't have any baffles or really efficient air controls.  I used to use my fireplace flue damper to control the intensity of the burns.  For an elongated overnight burn, I'd have the damper almost completely shut.  I've been thinking of installing mine in the unfinished basement, during a clean up and remodeling project that will be my next item on the things-to-do-list.  I would have a damper and a heat reclaimer on the pipe connector.  They blast out a lot of heat by themselves but putting a heat reclaimer would add 30,000 BTU's and help spread the heat through the basement.  Get yourself a piece of stove pipe and put it out back in the summer.  Take the top off and with a cast iron griddle or a simple grill and you can cook some killer burgers!! :coolgrin:

Take care,
Chris


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## Stegman

Good info, Chris. I was definitely thinking of a pipe damper. But what does a heat reclaimer do?


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## VCBurner

Stegman said:
			
		

> Good info, Chris. I was definitely thinking of a pipe damper. But what does a heat reclaimer do?


It installs in your pipe connector and reclaims a ton of heat that would otherwise go up the flue.  Folks around here are not big fans, but they are safe in my opinion when operated correctly with a stove like the Box.  I have one that has been connected to two different stoves in the basement.  It works like a charm.  Here's a link, I have the Magic Heat.

http://www.northlineexpress.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=5VZ-HR-6&source=nextag&kw=5VZ-HR-6

The cheaper kind only has 1/2 the CFM on the motor.  I've never used it but it may work depending on the space you have to heat.


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## Stegman

If anyone in the New England area is interested in one of these, I found what looks to be one on craigslist for $75.

http://worcester.craigslist.org/for/2208779329.html


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## VCBurner

How's the rebuilding coming along?


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## coz_01

Hey Guys!

Just wanted to add my find and experience with these to the thread.  I found both of these stoves by accident one day while I was out and about.  they were sitting in some guys yard full of cigarettes butts and were in such poor shape he gave them to me for $150 for the pair.

Should have took a before shot but didnt think to do it at the time.  I broke both of them completly down and hit them with a wire wheel on an angle grinder to clean the rust off of them and polished them up with WD40 and they look awesome I can not wait to fire them up.  The only problem I had was them 13.5" Main Body Rods all snapped on bothe stoves so I had to order more.  I had a terrible time finding new ones.  I finnally tracked them down here.  http://www.usstove.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=173_178&product_id=1553

They are not cheap.  On the bungalow I found they were actually too short so I had to fabricate my own from .25" steel from lowes.  Had to heat it up with a torch and shape the flat end and threaded the opposite end with a die.

I fiiled the seems with Mega Black High Temp Gasket Sealant http://www.itwconsumer.com/userfiles/files/techdata-sheet/VC Tech Data/99839 TDS.pdf

Hope that stuff works heh heh.

They are not Atlanta Brand But Birmingham Stove and Range Company - these Atlanta stoves seem to be complety identical.  This Forum was the closest I got to getting any info on them.

So Thanks!


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## begreen

This is a very old thread. 

RTV is not suitable for sealing seams on a stove. You need something designed for higher temps like Rutland furnace cement.


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## zap

I just bought Oscar Hedstrom's (Indian Motorcycles) 19th century farm house and there was one of these hooked up in the basement- probably was in use until 2008.  there are gaps in the sides that have been caulked with furnace cement. it fits inside my fireplace and i was thinking of using it for heat.  not sure if this is a safe idea, not much room for a stack. a test burn with some papers had smoke coming around the top edge.

does anyone have any input? short stack up to the flue door?


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## begreen

That stove is shot. Send it to the scrap yard.


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## zap

begreen said:


> That stove is shot. Send it to the scrap yard.


why do you say that? the one pictured in the post above seems the same just cleaned up better


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## begreen

The one you posted appears to have serious cracks. That grey stuff appears to be cement that someone tried filling the cracks with. The one one coz pictured does not have cracks in it.


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## zap

begreen said:


> The one you posted appears to have serious cracks. That grey stuff appears to be cement that someone tried filling the cracks with. The one one coz pictured does not have cracks in it.



yes, thought i mentioned someone used furnace cement. the cement makes the stove look bad but i can clean it away.

there's a seam right up the middle on coz's stove and my stove.  looks like 3 rivets to the rear of the seam on both stoves.  mine seems a little out of shape but basically the same. maybe i can disassemble the stove and realign the seams. the only crack i can find is on the top on the right side near the back.

what about the idea of putting it in the fireplace as shown? instructions on vozelgang stove states not to do it...


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## bholler

Yeah A crack in cast like that prettymuch means its scrap.  If that is the only cracked panel you could try looking for a new panel but i wouldnt spend allot of time or effor on it there are allot of stoves like it out there for very little money and allot of stuff that will work better as well.  Not saying they are bad stoves at all for what they are they are very good stoves. but yours is cooked


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## begreen

zap said:


> yes, thought i mentioned someone used furnace cement. the cement makes the stove look bad but i can clean it away.
> 
> there's a seam right up the middle on coz's stove and my stove.  looks like 3 rivets to the rear of the seam on both stoves.  mine seems a little out of shape but basically the same. maybe i can disassemble the stove and realign the seams. the only crack i can find is on the top on the right side near the back.
> 
> what about the idea of putting it in the fireplace as shown? instructions on vozelgang stove states not to do it...



The stove is shot. It should be scrapped. Note that the Vogelzang box stove is a copy. They are not the easiest to control due to a sloppy air control and have a bad reputation of not standing up well due to poor castings. Regardless, if the manual says no, that is the end of discussion.

Start a new thread if you are considering a new installation. The stoves that will work will depend on the height of the fireplace lintel. We'll need that and a further back picture to see if there are other considerations. You might also consider a rear exit stove like the Buck 261, but we'll need to check that lintel height for fit.  http://www.buckstove.com/model-261.html#.VE0zfodnqyc


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## zap

begreen said:


> The stove is shot. It should be scrapped. Note that the Vogelzang box stove is a copy. They are not the easiest to control due to a sloppy air control and have a bad reputation of not standing up well due to poor castings. Regardless, if the manual says no, that is the end of discussion.
> 
> Start a new thread if you are considering a new installation. The stoves that will work will depend on the height of the fireplace lintel. We'll need that and a further back picture to see if there are other considerations. You might also consider a rear exit stove like the Buck 261, but we'll need to check that lintel height for fit.  http://www.buckstove.com/model-261.html#.VE0zfodnqyc



i think  i misunderstood manual, want to put conventional wood stove into fireplace, dont know about flue hookup, which seems to physically fit into fireplace.

i dont have privleges to start a new thread.  i dont have much cash, but tons of wood.  using a cheaper, less efficient stove seems the way to go.  have 27" to top of fireplace opening, brownstone lintel.


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## bholler

You can put allot of traditional wood stoves in fireplaces but if you do you really need a liner run from the stove to the top of the chimney.  And the stove you have pictured would need a hearth extension. You hearth looks pretty deep though i think allot of stoves would work with out an extension.


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## TC2209

My brother bought this and restored it and gave it to me as a gift it looks beautiful in my 3 season room. 
However, I am having a very difficult time finding a connector for the oval connection at the back of the stove for my 6" stove pipe. Any suggestions?
Oval is 7" long and 4" wide


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## begreen

Will an ovalized section of 6" pipe fit the flue outlet?


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## JBPhoto

Hello everyone... I just found this thread through a search and joined.  My dad gave me an Atlanta Stove Works 27 Box stove and I just spent the morning cleaning it up and repainting it with high heat paint.  Will be installing it this weekend in my new woodworking shop! Will share some photos once it's in place!


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## Joecoffman

I would like to find the bolts that hold the stove together is there new ones that will work because of heat and where can I find them? Joe Coffman Burlington,NC. (336)-540-4461.


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## Cutwormsmith

Howdy. Been lurking here for about 4 years. I've had an ASW 27 box for about 25 years. Finally built a garage 4 years ago and put the stove in. Worked well, but had to keep it full and fired on those really cold days/nights.

Came across an old Fisher mama bear on side the road last week for a good price.

Put it in and now figuring out how to use a sealed stove. Wood seems to last alot longer so far. Love wood heat!


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