# Who knows about pole barns?



## Rob_Red (Feb 22, 2021)

Hey everyone, I have a nice pole barn in the back yard  of my new house that I would like to fix up. 

A little about the barn. It's a typical pole barn with board and baton siding, the wood came from the native lumber sawmill down the road (rough cut pine, not kiln dried, but the barn is at least 35 years old). It has a compacted stone dust floor and I would like to pour a concrete floor.  I would like to have the floor thick enough to support parking vehicles and general workshop activity, I have a Bridgeport mill that weighs about 2500 lbs that I would like to *possibly* put in there . 

My questions are: 

Should I poor the floor around the posts? Or build a form around the posts?  They are rough cut soft wood and are making direct ground contact so I assume some day they will need to be replaced. I was thinking if I build a form around them I could always remove the board and baton on the out side and dig them out if they rot.  Am I on track with this thinking? 

Is there a good way to make a barn like this actually weather tight? Right now its rodent paradise and some snow and rain blows in through the cracks. Currently I wouldn't store anything that isn't a piece of yard equipment in there. Due to the current environment I *would not* store rust prone woodworking or metal working hand tools, most fishing and hunting equipment and certainly no soft good that a mouse could destroy. 

Our house is from the late 1800's and is built on a crawl space, our last house had a nice dry basment that was used to store and organize all of our stuff so we could really use the extra storage. I am not afraid of carpentry work or spending a couple of dollars to make this a great workshop/ storage space. Any advice from experienced barn owners would be appreciated


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## Bad LP (Feb 22, 2021)

I wouldn't put my Bridgeport there due to the rapid change in temps and humidity resulting in rust. I'd have to have a room built inside the pole barn to prevent that plus protecting my measuring tools from the same fate. FYI the wire in my MIG welder turned all rusty from such weather changes.

As for your floating floor idea I did it on a lean-to that was built off the back of the garage but it was a little different. We poured the 2 post pads in a sono tube and left the elevation high to be above the slab elevation that was poured later. I had placed some rebar in the tubes and mesh in the slab.


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## Rob_Red (Feb 22, 2021)

Bad LP said:


> I wouldn't put my Bridgeport there due to the rapid change in temps and humidity resulting in rust. I'd have to have a room built inside the pole barn to prevent that plus protecting my measuring tools from the same fate. FYI the wire in my MIG welder turned all rusty from such weather changes.
> 
> As for your floating floor idea I did it on a lean-to that was built off the back of the garage but it was a little different. We poured the 2 post pads in a sono tube and left the elevation high to be above the slab elevation that was poured later. I had placed some rebar in the tubes and mesh in the slab.




I'm inclined to agree, unless climate controlled delicate/rust prone items are going to be a no go. I also had my MIG wire flash rust!


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## Bad LP (Feb 22, 2021)

I meant to add that planning ahead for post removal is smart. You may need to "box out" and area large enough to work in for their replacement day. This would not be difficult if you think of it as pouring a footing up to the finish slab elevation. 

How's the attitude on the local building department? 

Yes, I was speaking of a climate controlled room within the pole barn. Alternately a stand alone climate controlled out building might be a whole lot easier and cheaper in the long run.

I'd love a pole barn for my wood and tractor attachments and have been kicking around a 24X24 for just that. No need to care for rodents running around. I absolutely do not want them critters in my detached garage for any reason and I'm proactive on keeping them away. SO far so good.


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## Grizzerbear (Feb 22, 2021)

They now make steel or plastic sleeves that your post can go into that would stick up above your cement that are suppose to protect your posts from ever coming into contact with the dirt or concrete .....thereby making them last forever......or a person's lifetime anyways. I know that doesn't help you now but if you ever do replace what you have you could get some.


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## gzecc (Feb 22, 2021)

Provide a picture of the pole barn interior posts and how many there are.


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## Rob_Red (Feb 23, 2021)

gzecc said:


> Provide a picture of the pole barn interior posts and how many there are.



The barn is 25x25 and has 4 corner posts and a post in the middle of each wall. So 8 posts.


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## gzecc (Feb 23, 2021)

I would probably use a small backhoe  to excavate the posts from inside the building one at a time.  Cut posts a couple of inches below bottom plate,  install sonotubes (depth for your area), imbed metal post bracket between post and cement.  Be prepared to temporarily support  wall/ ceiling with appropriate structure.
I would also remove 4" of floor material to bring new concrete floor up to the bottom of the bottom plate.
Its a lot of labor, not much in materials.  Concrete floor will be the most $.


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## Rob_Red (Feb 23, 2021)

I have no doubt what you described is the best way to do it, but it would be a ton of work (my soil is very rocky). Would leaving the posts as they are and pouring a floating floor be a disaster? I would think the risk would be if a post rots out I would have to get creative with fixing it.

Right now the posts are rock solid. Is there a version of this where I poor the floor and replace the footings with sonotube if/when they rot?


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## gzecc (Feb 23, 2021)

Rob_Red said:


> I have no doubt what you described is the best way to do it, but it would be a ton of work (my soil is very rocky). Would leaving the posts as they are and pouring a floating floor be a disaster? I would think the risk would be if a post rots out I would have to get creative with fixing it.
> 
> Right now the posts are rock solid. Is there a version of this where I poor the floor and replace the footings with sonotube if/when they rot?


Is there a possibility they will not rot?


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## Highbeam (Feb 23, 2021)

I have a finished pole barn. It’s like a house. Pour concrete right against the posts. If untreated you can wrap with tar paper before the pour. 

You won’t be replacing that post without cutting the concrete. No big deal, rent a saw, cut out enough floor to do your work IF it’s ever needed.


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## PA Mountain Man (Feb 24, 2021)

It's interesting that 25 year old posts are still solid. Can't tell species from pic. If it was me, I would do the this. Remove and level crushed stone to get 6" under the bottom plate and 4" across the floor. Add roughsawn 12" 2x4 to the sides of each post on top of the purlin to transfer post load to purlin. Place concrete floor level with bottom plate and work in under with a vibrator.
This will create a shallow footer under the wall to transfer loads from post to plate and footer if the posts ever fail.
To address the walls place unfaced batt insulation in the wall cavity, staple black plastic floor to ceiling and cover with rough sawn 1x6. Similar with the ceiling, but you probably will need to add nailers for the roughsawn.
Rodent control is easier if there is nothing in the building for them to eat. We use cats in the barn. There are effective poisons also.
I've fond roughsawn is now 2/3 the price of lumber and plywood.
I put plastic under all slabs to conserve concrete and get a better cure. 10x10 6 gauge wire mesh in a 4" slab on a tight crushed stone base will support anything you can get in the building. Sawcut using a wet saw to divide the slab in to 4 equal squares to control cracking.


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## GENECOP (Feb 24, 2021)

PA Mountain Man said:


> It's interesting that 25 year old posts are still solid. Can't tell species from pic. If it was me, I would do the this. Remove and level crushed stone to get 6" under the bottom plate and 4" across the floor. Add roughsawn 12" 2x4 to the sides of each post on top of the purlin to transfer post load to purlin. Place concrete floor level with bottom plate and work in under with a vibrator.
> This will create a shallow footer under the wall to transfer loads from post to plate and footer if the posts ever fail.
> To address the walls place unfaced batt insulation in the wall cavity, staple black plastic floor to ceiling and cover with rough sawn 1x6. Similar with the ceiling, but you probably will need to add nailers for the roughsawn.
> Rodent control is easier if there is nothing in the building for them to eat. We use cats in the barn. There are effective poisons also.
> ...



That bottom plate appears to be toe nailed only into the posts, transferring the load to that will give limited support if settling occurs. If he bolts a new plate across the interior and bolts the bottom plate and the structural posts together, he might accomplish something..


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## SpaceBus (Feb 24, 2021)

PA Mountain Man said:


> It's interesting that 25 year old posts are still solid. Can't tell species from pic. If it was me, I would do the this. Remove and level crushed stone to get 6" under the bottom plate and 4" across the floor. Add roughsawn 12" 2x4 to the sides of each post on top of the purlin to transfer post load to purlin. Place concrete floor level with bottom plate and work in under with a vibrator.
> This will create a shallow footer under the wall to transfer loads from post to plate and footer if the posts ever fail.
> To address the walls place unfaced batt insulation in the wall cavity, staple black plastic floor to ceiling and cover with rough sawn 1x6. Similar with the ceiling, but you probably will need to add nailers for the roughsawn.
> Rodent control is easier if there is nothing in the building for them to eat. We use cats in the barn. There are effective poisons also.
> ...


Our house was insulated in this fashion and built on a slab above grade in the 70's. We bought and moved into the house in late 2018, come summer 2019 I had to replace the sill plates and most of the studs. The plastic and insulation was also sandwiched under the sill plates and that probably didn't help. Now we have an external house wrap under our siding and no plastic inside. I would not suggest the plastic to anyone as it just hides your problems and causes issues. 

To the OP:

If you want the space to be finished remove the battens from the exterior siding and put some Tyvek, Typar, or Zip System sheathing wrap around the entire exterior and apply another finish siding on top of that. Maybe even rough sawn board and batten. Your roof will likely require the same treatment, but I would use EDPM rubber or similar product for a base layer on top of the roof deck/sheathing. I think @Highbeam is spot on about the poles. The poles shouldn't rot or have issues if the poles are on the inside of the building and you have French drains or gutters around the barn. 

I dropped some rough cut Fir 4x4's into our gravely clay soil for an elevated chicken coop and they stay dry. My roof overhangs a bit on the sides and eventually I'll put some gutters on the structure.


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## SpaceBus (Feb 24, 2021)

Excavating the crushed stone/gravel floor for a slab sounds not very fun.


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## PA Mountain Man (Feb 24, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> Our house was insulated in this fashion and built on a slab above grade in the 70's. We bought and moved into the house in late 2018, come summer 2019 I had to replace the sill plates and most of the studs. The plastic and insulation was also sandwiched under the sill plates and that probably didn't help. Now we have an external house wrap under our siding and no plastic inside. I would not suggest the plastic to anyone as it just hides your problems and causes issues.
> 
> To the OP:
> 
> ...


What vapor barrier do you have on the inside of your insulation?


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## SpaceBus (Feb 24, 2021)

PA Mountain Man said:


> What vapor barrier do you have on the inside of your insulation?


None, the vapor barrier is on the outside of the structure and we do not have any water coming into the house. On half of the first floor the walls are just studs with insulation. On the walls I didn't have to rebuild the whole structure there is still plastic hiding behind the drywall. That all being said I can see if there is any water coming into the house and so far so good.


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## PA Mountain Man (Feb 24, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> None, the vapor barrier is on the outside of the structure and we do not have any water coming into the house. On half of the first floor the walls are just studs with insulation. On the walls I didn't have to rebuild the whole structure there is still plastic hiding behind the drywall. That all being said I can see if there is any water coming into the house and so far so good.


I hear what you are saying. In 36 years of designing and constructing commercial and residential occupied buildings I've never seen a detail or code standard that did not require a vapor barrier on the interior climate controlled side of a wall or ceiling. Kraft paper on fiberglass insulation provides the minimum permeability rating to meet code. There were some drywall products that met the standard.
I have fixed a lot of damage in walls and ceilings due to poorly installed, missing/no vapor barrier.
The vapor barrier prevents moisture from migrating thru the wall to make contact with temperatures that cause condensation. 
I'm glad your situation is working but I don't think the plastic on the inside of the walls caused the rot of the framing. But I could be wrong. 
Thought I was once, but I was mistaken!  
I have retrofitted several pole barns using the technique described above and they work great. I believe the best thing you can do on an exterior wall is keep rain from entering and provide as much ventilation from the exterior as possible.
Board and batten do this very well.


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## Bad LP (Feb 24, 2021)

RE: Vapor barrier

In my research a while back when researching spray foams and other insulating methods for my own home I learned that an exterior vapor barrier was the accepted practice down south. Up here in the north the vapor barrier goes on the inside to prevent the moisture forming on the inside of the enclosed walls/ceiling.

Keeping any weather off the sheathing under any sidewall by the use of a breathable house wrap is a no brainer but a plastic sheeting barrier is not recommended.


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## Highbeam (Feb 24, 2021)

My pole barn is metal outside, then wrapped with tyvek. Then an air gap. Then I have faced insulation with the paper on the warm side, and then osb sheeting with all seems caulked. I even put baseboards in. I stick framed walls between each post.

On the ceiling going up I have white metal, 6 mil plastic, then r50 cellulose to a ventilated attic space.


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## PA Mountain Man (Feb 24, 2021)

GENECOP said:


> That bottom plate appears to be toe nailed only into the posts, transferring the load to that will give limited support if settling occurs. If he bolts a new plate across the interior and bolts the bottom plate and the structural posts together, he might accomplish something..


Yes plates could work also, but if you screw 2x4's to the side of the post on top of the plate you get enough load transfer for this small building.


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## Rob_Red (Feb 24, 2021)

Thanks for the replies guys, you all gave me lots of food for thought. This project will begin once the weather starts to turn, I will keep everyone updated with pictures.


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## SpaceBus (Feb 24, 2021)

PA Mountain Man said:


> I hear what you are saying. In 36 years of designing and constructing commercial and residential occupied buildings I've never seen a detail or code standard that did not require a vapor barrier on the interior climate controlled side of a wall or ceiling. Kraft paper on fiberglass insulation provides the minimum permeability rating to meet code. There were some drywall products that met the standard.
> I have fixed a lot of damage in walls and ceilings due to poorly installed, missing/no vapor barrier.
> The vapor barrier prevents moisture from migrating thru the wall to make contact with temperatures that cause condensation.
> I'm glad your situation is working but I don't think the plastic on the inside of the walls caused the rot of the framing. But I could be wrong.
> ...


We do have board and batten siding hung on strapping. The plan is to install radiant barrier foam product with tape on the inside of the house and then using lime plaster over lath for the finish wall. While not a pole barn, it is a framed house on a slab. Perhaps the poly didn't cause the sill plates to rot, but it did hide the damage. Our home inspector went to the house twice after we checked the house twice and nobody caught that the south 2/3 of the first floor was rotten. I wish we could have put the rigid foam on the outside of the house, but the roof didn't give us enough room for that.


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## Highbeam (Feb 24, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> We do have board and batten siding hung on strapping. The plan is to install radiant barrier foam product with tape on the inside of the house and then using lime plaster over lath for the finish wall. While not a pole barn, it is a framed house on a slab. Perhaps the poly didn't cause the sill plates to rot, but it did hide the damage. Our home inspector went to the house twice after we checked the house twice and nobody caught that the south 2/3 of the first floor was rotten. I wish we could have put the rigid foam on the outside of the house, but the roof didn't give us enough room for that.



When you put a layer of rigid foam on the outside of the house under the siding, does that not create a vapor barrier on the cold side in addition to the vapor barrier on the warm side to trap vapors in the middle? Selfishly asking because I want to reside my home and foam is really easy for more R value than the R5 fiberglass currently in the wall!

I should say that when I stick framed walls between my pole barn posts on top of the concrete I applied that pink foam seal stuff to the bottom plate. That pole barn is built much better than my home.

2" foam under the slab and around the edges as well.


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## SpaceBus (Feb 24, 2021)

Highbeam said:


> When you put a layer of rigid foam on the outside of the house under the siding, does that not create a vapor barrier on the cold side in addition to the vapor barrier on the warm side to trap vapors in the middle? Selfishly asking because I want to reside my home and foam is really easy for more R value than the R5 fiberglass currently in the wall!
> 
> I should say that when I stick framed walls between my pole barn posts on top of the concrete I applied that pink foam seal stuff to the bottom plate. That pole barn is built much better than my home.
> 
> 2" foam under the slab and around the edges as well.


There are so many different opinions about this and I really don't know. The house wrap is supposed to release moisture, but like you said, many folks run the foam on the outside of the wrap creating a vapor barrier. I've seen several builders up here not use a vapor barrier inside the home and instead rely on exterior barriers. When we put foam on our studs we might not even use tape just to allow any trapped moisture a means to escape. Perhaps not the most energy friendly install method, but should be good for house longevity. Lime plaster deals with moisture very well and can "heal" cracks by absorbing water. 


I did remove the foam on the outside edge of our slab due to vermin damage/infestation, and the floor has been noticeably cooler. Eventually I will insulate the slab with mineral wool or XPS.


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## Rob_Red (Feb 25, 2021)

Hey guys what about the roof? Right now its the typical metal roof nailed right to perlins. What if I wanted something more weather tight? should I pull the metal and the purlins an replace with decking, underlayment, then either shingle or go with metal again? Could I do the decking with sawmill lumber for aesthetics?

Would just a simple ridge vent be sufficient for venting? It has a Gambrel roof.


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## Seasoned Oak (Feb 25, 2021)

The post will definitely rot is if they were not treated. I once used landscape timbers for fence posts ,big mistake. They are treated for ground contact but not direct burial. They lasted 10 yrs and rotted completely off where the post meets the ground but not underground. Had to replace every one.


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## SpaceBus (Feb 25, 2021)

The wood should not rot if there is no oxygen present and usually posts don't rot in the ground but in the loam that forms at the top. Microorganisms oxygenate the soil at the top and give an environment for mold to form. Without oxygen and water the mold cannot destroy the wood. Above the ground level the rot is not caused by mold but instead by mosses and other microorganisms that need light.


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## Rob_Red (Feb 25, 2021)

The posts are solid because they see little to no moisture. The barn has a french drain around the perimeter and the roof has a decent overhang.


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## SpaceBus (Feb 25, 2021)

Rob_Red said:


> The posts are solid because they see little to no moisture. The barn has a french drain around the perimeter and the roof has a decent overhang.


Keep any soil from accumulating near/on the posts or other wood and you will never have rot issues. Sand, gravel, and clay do not harbor mold and other microbes like soil will.


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## GENECOP (Feb 25, 2021)

Rob_Red said:


> Hey guys what about the roof? Right now its the typical metal roof nailed right to perlins. What if I wanted something more weather tight? should I pull the metal and the purlins an replace with decking, underlayment, then either shingle or go with metal again? Could I do the decking with sawmill lumber for aesthetics?
> 
> Would just a simple ridge vent be sufficient for venting? It has a Gambrel roof.



Is the roof leaking?


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## Rob_Red (Feb 25, 2021)

GENECOP said:


> Is the roof leaking?




Only in one spot where I know I have a flashing issue. I plan to get up there to address this once the snow is gone

Would there be any down side to spray foaming with metal roofing and perlins in place and then make a ceiling from wood from the saw mill? I was thinking I could run the boards through my planer and rout lap joints. This would allow it to breath some and when the wood dries out it wont open up enough to see the insulation. 

Also what would you guys do with rusty corrugated roofing? leave it because the rustic looks is cool? Paint it some how? replace it and use it for covering wood piles?


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## GENECOP (Feb 25, 2021)

Really depends on the condition of the roof, and the size of your budget. One thing I know would be a mistake , don’t consider spray foam to the underside of that roof unless your confident of the condition, the last thing you want to do is have to rip the roof off a few years after you foamed it..


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## SpaceBus (Feb 25, 2021)

Rob_Red said:


> Only in one spot where I know I have a flashing issue. I plan to get up there to address this once the snow is gone
> 
> Would there be any down side to spray foaming with metal roofing and perlins in place and then make a ceiling from wood from the saw mill? I was thinking I could run the boards through my planer and rout lap joints. This would allow it to breath some and when the wood dries out it wont open up enough to see the insulation.
> 
> Also what would you guys do with rusty corrugated roofing? leave it because the rustic looks is cool? Paint it some how? replace it and use it for covering wood piles?


If you foam in the roof you will need to allow some kind of ventilation between the metal and the spray foam, usually 1-2" air gap. Otherwise you end up with a "hot roof" which becomes a problem if you want to make it a conditioned space.


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## Rob_Red (Feb 25, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> If you foam in the roof you will need to allow some kind of ventilation between the metal and the spray foam, usually 1-2" air gap. Otherwise you end up with a "hot roof" which becomes a problem if you want to make it a conditioned space.



Can you elaborate on what a "hot roof" is?


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## SpaceBus (Feb 25, 2021)

Rob_Red said:


> Can you elaborate on what a "hot roof" is?


A "hot roof" is simply an unventilated roof. Allegedly this can cause condensation to form between the roofing material and the deck (insulation in your case). I've read that spray foam is actually the only product you can use to make a functional hot roof that won't have condensation issues, but it is a relatively recent building practice.


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## Rob_Red (Feb 25, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> A "hot roof" is simply an unventilated roof. Allegedly this can cause condensation to form between the roofing material and the deck (insulation in your case). I've read that spray foam is actually the only product you can use to make a functional hot roof that won't have condensation issues, but it is a relatively recent building practice.



Ah ok. So far I've seen two schools of thought. One being that sprayfoam will NOT cause condensation when applied directly to the metal roof. The other is use some kind of pre-engineered baffle. 

The baffle idea is intriguing because it seems like the roof would still be easily replaceable.


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## SpaceBus (Feb 25, 2021)

Rob_Red said:


> Ah ok. So far I've seen two schools of thought. One being that sprayfoam will NOT cause condensation when applied directly to the metal roof. The other is use some kind of pre-engineered baffle.
> 
> The baffle idea is intriguing because it seems like the roof would still be easily replaceable.


I would go with the baffles and create an air gap between the roof and insulation.


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## sloeffle (Feb 26, 2021)

Highbeam said:


> When you put a layer of rigid foam on the outside of the house under the siding, does that not create a vapor barrier on the cold side in addition to the vapor barrier on the warm side to trap vapors in the middle? Selfishly asking because I want to reside my home and foam is really easy for more R value than the R5 fiberglass currently in the wall!


A few years ago I worked on a couple Habitat For Humanity homes. I was jealous on how well the house was insulated. I'd of opted for 2x6 vs 2x4 walls if I was building the house for myself, but Habitat uses 2x4 exterior walls. The walls were 1/2 drywall -> 2x4 with R13 batt insulation -> 1/2 plywood -> tyvek / moisture barrier -> 4x8 sheets of 2" foam insulation board -> siding.

I've seen hundred of houses in the building stage in Ohio and I've never seen plastic used on the inside of a house. Personally, I'd opt for the moisture to migrate through the walls and out of the house vs trapping it in the house.

EDIT: This seems to be about the best guide I can find online about vapor barriers.


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## PA Mountain Man (Mar 1, 2021)

Rob_Red said:


> Hey guys what about the roof? Right now its the typical metal roof nailed right to perlins. What if I wanted something more weather tight? should I pull the metal and the purlins an replace with decking, underlayment, then either shingle or go with metal again? Could I do the decking with sawmill lumber for aesthetics?
> 
> Would just a simple ridge vent be sufficient for venting? It has a Gambrel roof.


Is the metal steel or aluminum? Is it actually nailed or screwed? A properly screwed metal roof can be coated. 
You don't need decking or underlayment with metal and it's easy to take off the metal and replace it.
The decking/ceiling with sawmill lumber would be perfect.
Insulate with fiberglass batt. I've seen a lot of problems with spray foam in wood structures.
And I stand by my recommendation for plastic as interior vapor barrier in a pole barn.
Keep the batt insulation to roofing gap the same as the thickness of the purlin.
Your insulation should be the same thickness as the depth of rafters.
Different animal in a residence, and I'm not convinced the "breathable" wraps are that great in a residence.
You have a pole barn that I'm guessing will be heated occasionally.
Same situation with the walls with board and batten on the outside.
You get plenty of ventilation in the wall from the outside.
But what do I know, only been doing this since '85...


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## SpaceBus (Mar 2, 2021)

Doing something for a long time does not make you an expert. It means you have done it for a while. I've met many a man who did something wrong for their whole life.


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## Highbeam (Mar 4, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> Doing something for a long time does not make you an expert. It means you have done it for a while. I've met many a man who did something wrong for their whole life.



Not speaking about PAMM of course but,

I’ve worked in construction for 20 some years (engineer)and since day 1 I’ve had people try that line when called out for not following the plan. The best contractors are the experienced ones that are willing to learn. Those guys are usually not as angry at the world either as a result of their different outlook.


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## mcdougy (Mar 4, 2021)

Here's my take on what could be done. FwIw I have 28 years in construction, including building 75+ pole buildings over my years thus far. These include simple uninsulated drive sheds, to fully insulated  gorgeous shops, and some may have even been used for living quarters after we left??

Your floor around the posts.    I would suggest pour your floor around the post and do nothing. Your saying the posts appear very solid and that is all you need. The rot everyone speaks of is generally caused from a repetitive  freeze thaw cycle. The post wicks the moisture from the soil and the moisture exits above grade. The typical rot zone is 4" below grade. This is where the moisture level changes from wet to drying and when the freeze cycle enters the situation it becomes prime for rot to start. A pole thats set in a wet location (wet heavy soil) is a  scenario that's not going to work out very often for very long.
The soil your showing in your pictures is a GREAT scenario for pole longevity imo.

Insulation: my suggestion for your attic would be install 6mil vapor barrier to the underside of bottom chord, apply your ceiling finish (metal, wood, drywall, velvet etc) then blow your attic with your required r value with CELLULOSE.

Walls: in the perfect world your building would have been wrapped with a air barrier, then insulate, then vapor barrier, then interior finish.
Since your exterior cladding is already installed and I'm guessing your not interested in removing it then I would propose this  idea if budget allows...
A flash and fill.....strap between the posts with 2x6 on the horizontal plane, spray 2" closed cell spray foam directly to the backside of your wood cladding , then get the same CELLULOSE  installer to blow the remainder of the cavity with dense packed cellulose, then your interior finish.

Roof...leave the sheet metal roof alone and address the flashing problem. A sheet metal roof is perfect imo, and surely no good reason to remove it to add shingles or anything else. What you have is low cost replacement and extremely easy to maintain roof. If installed correctly you should have zero issues until the paint deteriorates

 if there is not any ventilation currently in the roof I would suggest installing a continuous ridge vent with soffit ventilation as well. If the current soffits are finished and unvented, you could remove and replace them with a vented version.
All of this is assuming you have a standard roof truss system, im now thinking you said gambrel roof and if thats the case then there is a entire different scenario for that....
Maybe post a picture of the outside of your building so we can get a look at what your dealing with.


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## ben94122 (Apr 7, 2021)

Instead of using a router to make your ceiling boards lap, consider using a dado stack in your table saw


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## SpaceBus (Apr 7, 2021)

ben94122 said:


> Instead of using a router to make your ceiling boards lap, consider using a dado stack in your table saw


I wish I had a table saw that could take dado stacks.


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## john sulllivan (Apr 7, 2021)

I live in a post style barn, well the part that is the house was the garage and the barn is now my garage and work shop.  but it is all held up by post that are pressure treated. I have replace 3 post so far. keeping the water away is key. I put gutters on the barn part and two of the other posts i have cemented in the bases, with plates and brackets  because they are an exposed porch roof.

the structure has a typical plywood roof with two layers of shingles. one three tab and the top coat is architectural grade shingles. the next roof is going to cost big bucks to strip and reinstall. 

my advise would to do it right, so you don't have to deal with it again. the price of steel has gone way up, but done right it should last a good long time. If i had to do it again, i would have gone with steel years ago.


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