# Wood Stove Restore & Chimney Question



## Alex C (Oct 5, 2014)

This is an Old Mill wood stove from 1986 or so. I dug it out of my dads garage and began restoring it to install this year for my primary heating source. I started by using wire brushes, but quickly realized sandblasting was the way to go. Did a test burn to bake the paint and check my gasket replacement. All looks good, can't wait to finish the chimney and install. I have the option to go through the roof or through the wall with the chimney. Through the roof is a lot more complicated due to electrical work, and a 24" on center rafter setup.  It is also tongue and groove pine which would require quite a bit of removal in the event of trying to brace for the chimney support box. Any thoughts?


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## coaly (Oct 5, 2014)

Through the roof is much cheaper, and keeps the internal flue temps hotter than an exposed chimney.
It's not bad working through the square cut out of ceiling to install blocking for the support box. You can reach in and mount a 2 X 4 flat to the joist to screw the blocking to, or toe screw it. Predrill to hold the screws, it's not bad.


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## Alex C (Oct 5, 2014)

Thanks. Local chimney shop quoted my parts for a straight through roof setup at just over $1000, for the support box and everything above it to the cap. They sell Excel products. When i looked at Home Depot, their  through wall kit was much cheaper. Is Excel product that much better than DuraVent products?


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## coaly (Oct 5, 2014)

I personally like DuraVent and find Home Depot the cheapest place to buy it by far.

If you price a through the wall kit and figure the cost of all chimney sections needed above roof, compared to a through the ceiling kit and fewer chimney sections, you will find how much cheaper the later is.


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## Alex C (Oct 5, 2014)

I understand what you're saying. I live on a lake so I'm also wondering if i will have too much draft if i go straight out the roof.


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## coaly (Oct 5, 2014)

In a windy situation you don't want an exterior chimney. You want less exposed outside. Wind chilling chimney reduces draft and next will be smoke puffing in due to poor draft. Control draft with pipe damper in first piece of pipe above stove.
Plus your stove top outlet is positioned to go straight up with no elbows providing you can position it directly under support box. It gets no better than that.


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## fossil (Oct 5, 2014)

Straight up and out to daylight is always the best way to go if you can, for a number of reasons...including flue temp and ease of sweeping.  Rick


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## Alex C (Oct 6, 2014)

coaly said:


> In a windy situation you don't want an exterior chimney. You want less exposed outside. Wind chilling chimney reduces draft and next will be smoke puffing in due to poor draft. Control draft with pipe damper in first piece of pipe above stove.
> Plus your stove top outlet is positioned to go straight up with no elbows providing you can position it directly under support box. It gets no better than that.


I am able to have a straight shot right out of the stove out the roof. Is my assumption correct in that I will have to cut the ceiling support box to match the pitch of my roof along the top?


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## Alex C (Oct 6, 2014)

Alex C said:


> This is an Old Mill wood stove from 1986 or so. I dug it out of my dads garage and began restoring it to install this year for my primary heating source. I started by using wire brushes, but quickly realized sandblasting was the way to go. Did a test burn to bake the paint and check my gasket replacement. All looks good, can't wait to finish the chimney and install. I have the option to go through the roof or through the wall with the chimney. Through the roof is a lot more complicated due to electrical work, and a 24" on center rafter setup.  It is also tongue and groove pine which would require quite a bit of removal in the event of trying to brace for the chimney support box. Any thoughts?
> 
> View attachment 140400
> View attachment 140401
> ...


Just bought my thru the roof kit. Has anyone ever had to clip the first section of pipe to fit into the stove collar? It's JUST too big around. Not sure what protocol is here. Any help would be appreciated.


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## Alex C (Oct 6, 2014)

Answered my own question regarding first pipe connection.


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## Alex C (Oct 22, 2014)

As I am waiting on my new flue extension from amazon (11" is not suitable for a cathedral install, need 24"), I'm beginning to get the materials to construct the hearth. With an unlisted stove, do I need to use metal studs under the dura rock (1/2") for the base? It will have ceramic tile on the dura rock. My stove has six inch legs and a heat shield mounted about an inch under the bottom of the stove.


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## begreen (Oct 22, 2014)

Does the stove have a manual? If yes go by the manual. If not I'd put down 3 layers of Durock with a bottom layer of plywood.


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## Alex C (Oct 22, 2014)

begreen said:


> Does the stove have a manual? If yes go by the manual. If not I'd put down 3 layers of Durock with a bottom layer of plywood.



No manual. 1984 stove that I can find absolutely no info on. Did you mean putting the three layers of durock & plywood in lieu of the stud base or on top of the stud base? I suppose I don't need to make an elevated base but I had planned on it.


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## valley ranch (Oct 23, 2014)

"I am able to have a straight shot right out of the stove out the roof. Is my assumption correct in that I will have to cut the ceiling support box to match the pitch of my roof along the top?"

Are you talking about the inside,{ the ceiling? } or the roof?

Anyway that's a nice stove, sure to give you some good heat.

Just reread your first post, so you have a Chalet roof.

Richard


I've seen, and sat in front of some nice installations that were piped into an existing chimney.


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## Alex C (Oct 23, 2014)

valley ranch said:


> "I am able to have a straight shot right out of the stove out the roof. Is my assumption correct in that I will have to cut the ceiling support box to match the pitch of my roof along the top?"
> 
> Are you talking about the inside,{ the ceiling? } or the roof?
> 
> ...


Roof. The flue extension will be set level to accept the connector pipe. The directions that i finally opened explain how to cut the front of the flue extension box to the slope of the roof.


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## Squeaky_6 (Oct 27, 2014)

That redo looks amazing! Did you sandblast it yourself? I am going to redo a country comfort stove. Can you give me some pointers on the restoration??? Any advice would be helpful!
thank You!


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