# Muffler falling off (again) Husky 350



## pen (Aug 12, 2013)

About a year ago I had the threads for the muffler bolts give out on my husky 350. Helicoils were installed and bolted things back up. With the repair freshly done, I spot welded the bolt heads to the muffler so that they couldn't back out. That worked for about 6 cord of wood, and now the helicoils are stripped out (tack welds held).

I wish like heck I tried to find or make studs instead of re-using factory exhaust bolts but hindsight is 20/20.

Any suggestions on what to do next with the darn thing? Saw runs 100% so I hate to give up on it but really want to fix it so it holds as it should.

Thanks guys,

pen


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## JOHN BOY (Aug 12, 2013)

I have the same saw , its tough as a pine knot.  It fell off twice. Believe it or not ive Ported the muffler to help the saw run cooler.  I used red loc-tite in the threads and have not had a problem
You could tap the holes larger to fit bigger bolts ,of course you'd have to open up the muffler holes to.


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## clemsonfor (Aug 12, 2013)

I was thinking retap to a larger size and drill out muff holes as well.


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## pen (Aug 12, 2013)

Thanks guys.

Since these helicoils have ripped out, that's going to be a must.

Anyone switch to a stud instead of using bolts for this?


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## DexterDay (Aug 12, 2013)

Hate to recommend another Forum. But there is a 340/345/350 expert on Another Site. He specializes in the 350, because it is the best homeowners platform out there. It is light weight, and a 346xp top end can bolted directly on for some serious gains. 

Won't put it here. 

PM if you want his "handle" on "AnotherSite".


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## pen (Aug 12, 2013)

Thanks for the tip. No problems with recommending another site when it's in the context of aiding a help question. nepacrossroads.com is often mentioned as a recommended site for people coming here with certain questions.

I know we have a lot of expertise here as well which is why I started with the home crew.

Thanks again.

pen


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## DexterDay (Aug 12, 2013)

Pretty sure i have broke some of the rules before and just didnt know if it would cross the line. 

Lots of educated members here (also members there). But the one member is quite fluent in Husq 350  

Cheers.


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## firefighterjake (Aug 12, 2013)

I went the Loc=Tite route and so far so good.


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## pen (Aug 12, 2013)

First time I had a bolt come loose during an inspection several years ago I pulled them both and applied the loctite. That bought me a year. Next time I found one loose I found a bit of the threads still stuck to the bolt and tried re-applying thinking it had burned out. That bought me another year. Last year they both came loose and helicoils went in and I welded the bolt head to keep them from coming loose, now I'm where I'm at.

As it figures, it came loose again Sat morning about 3/4 of the way through the first tank while a buddy and I were using a bulldozer to pull logs. Since my nice little saw went down, I had to use his husky 570 for limbing on steep grades and in tough brush (which is why the bulldozer was there as the farmall 450 can't get to this stuff). At the end of the day that 570 felt like a 5 gallon bucket filled with water to me.

I want this saw back in solid order as it's a beast for it's size.  I really think if I go to larger helicoils, I need to find studs instead of bolts.

pen


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## clemsonfor (Aug 12, 2013)

Maybe time for that 346 piston and jug!!


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## MasterMech (Aug 13, 2013)

Just going to the larger diameter bolts should help.  High heat loctite too.  Are these mufflers sleeved inside like others that have long fasteners?


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## bogydave (Aug 13, 2013)

Make sure to tighten them when the saw is hot. 

My Husq. 359 book calls for :
" silencer, tighten bolts to a torque of 12–14 Nm"
Then
 "Run the saw for at least 1 minute, then retighten
the silencer bolts to 8–10 Nm."

metric torque setting.

Newton meters .
10 Nm = 7.37 foot lbs
12 Nm = 8.85 foot lbs


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## pen (Aug 13, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> Just going to the larger diameter bolts should help. High heat loctite too. Are these mufflers sleeved inside like others that have long fasteners?


 
If memory serves, yes.  Individual sleeves. 

pen


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## clemsonfor (Aug 13, 2013)

But sleeves where there ate recessed bolts or sleeves where the nut is on the farthest side out of muff?


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## BrotherBart (Aug 13, 2013)

Don't know why anybody is bashful about saying http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/ . Chainsaw junkie heaven.


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## DexterDay (Aug 13, 2013)

Here is a pretty good thread from a guy that knows quite a bit about this platform.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/237587.htm

Very 1st post makes mention to use Loc tite. But post #11 further down also has a good cure for the loose muff bolt problem.


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## WES999 (Aug 13, 2013)

Can you use one of these?
http://www.mscdirect.com/product/36753069     key locking inserts
You will need enough material to to tap the cylinder M8.
We use these inserts frequently at work, they can be removed and replaced if needed.
The muffler screws on my 350 have never been a problem.


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## pen (Aug 14, 2013)

Think I'm going to try the repair with the 288xp bolts.

Stopped into the local saw shop and spent some time with the husky 555 today.  I'm kinda thinking the 350 needs a bigger brother


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## firefighterjake (Aug 14, 2013)

pen said:


> Think I'm going to try the repair with the 288xp bolts.
> 
> Stopped into the local saw shop and spent some time with the husky 555 today. I'm kinda thinking the 350 needs a bigger brother


 
That's the saw I've been eye-balling as well for my next saw step up.


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## MasterMech (Aug 14, 2013)

pen said:


> Think I'm going to try the repair with the 288xp bolts.
> 
> Stopped into the local saw shop and spent some time with the husky 555 today.  I'm kinda thinking the 350 needs a bigger brother


You didn't get your CAD vaccine this year did you?


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## pen (Aug 14, 2013)

In opening things up this morning the helicoils held just fine, it was the bolts themselves that stripped.  I was expecting to find the helicoils pulled out.  Sooo, going to try it again with new muffler bolts and see.

I'm thinking even though they were tight and welded, vibration killed the bolt's threads.  Perhaps that muffler should have a support on it like that 288xp has.

Also, even with stock bolts I'm guessing the 350 will hold together a bit longer since it's going to change roles from primary to limb saw.  Just called the shop back and bought the 555. 



MasterMech said:


> You didn't get your CAD vaccine this year did you?


 
I knew I shouldn't have skipped that spring check-up!


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## PapaDave (Aug 14, 2013)

pen said:


> Just called the shop back and bought the 555


CAD at it's finest.


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## Clarkbug (Aug 14, 2013)

What about using some threaded rod to make your own studs for the muffler?  Put it in with red locktite and then just bolt on with your choice of fastener....


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## pen (Aug 14, 2013)

Clarkbug said:


> What about using some threaded rod to make your own studs for the muffler? Put it in with red locktite and then just bolt on with your choice of fastener....


 
I had been thinking that too since so many exhausts use a stud and nut versus a bolt (automotive). But, I'm not an expert and I can't find anywhere that someone has tried it so I'm debating (not sure if I'm missing something and that's why others have not done this).


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## HittinSteel (Aug 14, 2013)

pen said:


> In opening things up this morning the helicoils held just fine, it was the bolts themselves that stripped. I was expecting to find the helicoils pulled out. Sooo, going to try it again with new muffler bolts and see.
> 
> I'm thinking even though they were tight and welded, vibration killed the bolt's threads. Perhaps that muffler should have a support on it like that 288xp has.
> 
> ...


 
I have read that a support was used on the later 350 mufflers. Let me do some more research and see what I can find.....maybe check with your dealer also.


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## HittinSteel (Aug 14, 2013)

I found this on ebay.....must be the later style muffler with a bracket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Muffler...612?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43bca93ce4


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## pen (Aug 14, 2013)

HittinSteel said:


> I found this on ebay.....must be the later style muffler with a bracket
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Muffler...612?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43bca93ce4


 
Thanks.

Hmm, trying to figure what the bracket would attach to.


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## HittinSteel (Aug 14, 2013)

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/209953.htm

and a Video


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## pen (Aug 14, 2013)

And there we have it.

That'll be part of the plan now.

Thanks


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## HittinSteel (Aug 14, 2013)

You're welcome.....hope you get it sorted out. Great little saws.


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## DexterDay (Aug 14, 2013)

That 555 is a very nice saw. Its basically the de-tuned 562xp. 

Very nice saw.  Make sure to read that little book that comes with it  Has some valuable info on making sure you "Tune" the auto-tune correctly. Although it says to keep it in wood for 3-5 min (IIRC), this does bot mean continously.  You can cut a 14" log, but dont hold it wide open until your in the cut. 

Congrats on the new saw  Now we NEED pics. You know the rules Pen  Never happened without pics


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## HittinSteel (Aug 14, 2013)

I missed that part, congrats on the 555!

Dex when did you get a 562? Now I really have to make a trip to your place. Been wanting to run one of those. I'll bring my 2100 for you to run


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## DexterDay (Aug 14, 2013)

I dont kiss and tell  

Bring some gloves too. I got a bunch of wood to stack.


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## pen (Aug 14, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> That 555 is a very nice saw. Its basically the de-tuned 562xp.
> 
> Very nice saw. Make sure to read that little book that comes with it  Has some valuable info on making sure you "Tune" the auto-tune correctly. Although it says to keep it in wood for 3-5 min (IIRC), this does bot mean continously. You can cut a 14" log, but dont hold it wide open until your in the cut.
> 
> Congrats on the new saw  Now we NEED pics. You know the rules Pen  Never happened without pics


 
It'll be at least a week till I get the saw so I have to sit with anticipation until I can get back to town.  The one I was playing with was the last in stock and was sold.

My buddy who I cut with bought the 562xp last year and it's a beast. With only .4 less hp and the 555 is lighter than the 562, and will do all I need (plus I could borrow his if I really needed an even longer bar) I saw no reason to spend the extra $$$ on the xp since the 350 has done all I've needed for the past 7 years, I figure the 555 should be a big improvement.

I'm pumped.

pen


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## MrWhoopee (Aug 15, 2013)

WES999 said:


> Can you use one of these?
> http://www.mscdirect.com/product/36753069 key locking inserts
> You will need enough material to to tap the cylinder M8.
> We use these inserts frequently at work, they can be removed and replaced if needed.
> The muffler screws on my 350 have never been a problem.


 
As I was reading the replies to this thread, I was thinking Keenserts. There are several different brands and styles of these things, but they are all far better than Heli-coils.


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## jensent (Aug 16, 2013)

Red Loc-tite, everything else is stock except the spark screen was removed. It has run like that for about 9 years with no additional attention to the muffler. The 350  runs!


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## BobUrban (Aug 16, 2013)

Mine has/had the top screws holding the plastic on coming free as well as the muffler bolts.  Red LT worked for me as well with no further issues.  Although mine is super cold blooded and starts really hard from a cold sit.


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## HittinSteel (Aug 16, 2013)

Bob, you likely need a relatively simple carb rebuild. The pump diaphragm may be bad


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