# RE: Perplexing problem with my Kenmore Elite oven



## firefighterjake (May 3, 2011)

OK folks . . . you are my last stop before I actually break down and call an actual appliance tech . . .

The background: As some of you know I am working on renovating my kitchen. About two weeks ago I was pulling out the oven and had unscrewed the electrical outlet . . . however, the folks who had wired the house apparently didn't always do a stand up job as pulling the oven out (while it was plugged in still) caused a short -- as witnessed by the pop and light show and tripped circuit breaker. I didn't think too much of this at the time.

Later that day . . . or maybe it was the next day . . . the stove began beeping intermittently -- but other than the beeping it wasn't turning itself on or running a timer. I unplugged it, waited, plugged it back in and everthing seemed golden.

A day or so later I went to use the oven and for some reason I could only use some of the touchpad inputs . . . I kept trying to input 375 degrees for the oven and the touchpad wouldn't allow me to enter the 7 or 5 . . . or it wouldn't allow me to enter the numbers, but would default to either 170 degrees or 350 degrees.

The next day I went to use the oven and the touchpad worked fine with zero issues.

Another day or two passed and the original problem was back with limited input.

A day or two ago I used the oven with no issues.

And then the other day I could not input anything into the touchpad.

Followed most recently with me being able to only input a few numbers.

---

I've done quite a few internet searches, but am perplexed . . . I've seen some folks report getting a code . . . but I have yet to see any code. I am thinking it could be the control board . . . but honestly when it comes to appliances I am not the smartest guy in the world . . . heck, when it comes to many things I am not the smartest guy in the world. Any suggestions? I would hate to buy the circuit board and either find out it is the wrong type or the wrong part to replace since these can be pretty expensive.

The stove is a Kenmore Elite gas double oven range. Model Number: 66578002803.


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## blujacket (May 3, 2011)

Sounds like a bad circuit board to me. Double check the cord connection @ the terminal block on the range for good connections.


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## velvetfoot (May 3, 2011)

I can't help you, but I will say I replaced a cirucuit board and display for a Thermador oven and was very proud of myself that I didn't waste any money.  There was stuff on the web, though, of other people having the same issue.
One tip I can give though, which could apply to other projects as well, is take digital images of the 'before' situation, so you can put the multitude of wires back to the right spot.  I had the laptop on a ladder, lol.


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## Dix (May 3, 2011)

My turn to help you out, Jake 

I did some checking, and I think the range is really a Whirlpool. It sounds like atleast one of the PCB's took a hit, and I'm thinking it's the Main pcb with the Microprocessor on it. Have you unplugged it again for a bit and tried a reset? 

I can tell you that Sears Parts Direct  dot com is a rip off on pricing ...above & beyond retail.

Try here, this place is kinda like the Hearth of appliance assistance.

http://applianceguru.com/


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## firefighterjake (May 3, 2011)

blujacket said:
			
		

> Sounds like a bad circuit board to me. Double check the cord connection @ the terminal block on the range for good connections.



Probably should at least do this before spending money . . . good idea . . . thanks. I suppose it's always possible that pulling and pushing the oven in and out of its spot (moved it three or five times) may have loosened a connection.


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## firefighterjake (May 3, 2011)

velvetfoot said:
			
		

> I can't help you, but I will say I replaced a cirucuit board and display for a Thermador oven and was very proud of myself that I didn't waste any money.  There was stuff on the web, though, of other people having the same issue.
> One tip I can give though, which could apply to other projects as well, is take digital images of the 'before' situation, so you can put the multitude of wires back to the right spot.  I had the laptop on a ladder, lol.



Good idea about taking pics . . . I'm notorious for taking stuff apart and forgetting how it went together.


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## firefighterjake (May 3, 2011)

Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle said:
			
		

> My turn to help you out, Jake
> 
> I did some checking, and I think the range is really a Whirlpool. It sounds like atleast one of the PCB's took a hit, and I'm thinking it's the Main pcb with the Microprocessor on it. Have you unplugged it again for a bit and tried a reset?
> 
> ...



PCB = _________ Processor Control Board?

I did have the stove unplugged a few times . . . or are you talking about unplugging the control board? 

Any suggested places to buy parts if not Sears . . . I suspect you are right about it being a Whirlpool . . . in fact I'm 90% sure it is Whirlpool based on both the model number as it corresponds to Whirlpool products and when I bought this stove it looked a lot like the Maytag which I was reluctant to buy . . . except that the salesman said Whirlpool had purchased Maytag and was producing a lot of their products and copying them. 

Thanks for the link . . . I'll check it out.


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## velvetfoot (May 3, 2011)

Yeah, I first did that picture thing with a car door lock, and it really helped.


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## Don2222 (May 3, 2011)

Hello

I rewired my house when I put in a new kitchen stove. So the first item to check is for a good ground which you may not have from the sparking!

A bad ground can cause many weird problems.

Most stoves require 220 volts but there has been a major update in the wiring. My old stove was a 3-wire meaning there are 2 hot wires - line 1 and line 2 and a neutral which is also the case ground. My old stove had many ground problems because the case was used as a common ground so the controls on the control panel used the metal panel as ground!! So when the screws that held the control panel to the stove rusted, the control panel became live and gave us nice shocks!!

Anyway, my new stove has all the grounds to the steel shell and neutral separate so this will never happen. However to make it easy to hook into a house, it can be wired to a 3 wire stove outlet or the newer code standard 4 wire outlet. The 4 wire outlet keeps the ground and neutral separate all the way back to the circuit breaker panel to keep everyone safe!

So I suggest the new 4-wire outlet if you do not have one and make sure you have a good solid connection for you ground and neutral wires!

Just some basics that are good to know and may help.


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## Dix (May 3, 2011)

PCB ='s printed circuit board.


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## heat seeker (May 3, 2011)

I have had excellent results with troubleshooting and parts help here: RepairClinic
I've bought quite a few things there over the years, all good stuff, reasonable price, great service.

Don't miss the scroll-down option on the parts listing, go to range/stove/oven parts.

Click on Get Repair Help for troubleshooting assistance.


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## firefighterjake (May 4, 2011)

Don2222 said:
			
		

> Hello
> 
> I rewired my house when I put in a new kitchen stove. So the first item to check is for a good ground which you may not have from the sparking!
> 
> ...



I think 220 volts would be overkill on my stove . . . since the electric power is just there to run the igniters, clock, etc. and not actually supply heat to the gas oven and stove top.


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## Czech (May 4, 2011)

heat seeker said:
			
		

> I have had excellent results with troubleshooting and parts help here: RepairClinic
> I've bought quite a few things there over the years, all good stuff, reasonable price, great service.
> 
> Don't miss the scroll-down option on the parts listing, go to range/stove/oven parts.
> ...



x10.


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## semipro (May 4, 2011)

firefighterjake said:
			
		

> Don2222 said:
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> ...





Don's point about checking the basics first is a good one though.  A bad ground can cause weird and intermittent problems.   Since your stove doesn't require 220 can you plug it into another nearby outlet or extension cord and test it there?  Preferably one that's on a different circuit breaker.


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## firefighterjake (May 4, 2011)

Semipro said:
			
		

> firefighterjake said:
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> 
> ...



Not a bad idea . . . I was going to take Don's suggestion to check the wiring as well once I get the back of the stove off.


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## firefighterjake (Aug 2, 2011)

Update . . . ordered a control board through the Repair Clinic.com site . . . stove works perfect now . . . a very easy repair . . . and I saved quite a bit of money not buying from the Sears website. Thanks folks.


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## Later (Aug 2, 2011)

Oops, should have read the "I fixed it" post


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## Czech (Aug 3, 2011)

Cool Jake! Good to hear. Man I love it when we fix stuff here and save some bucks.


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## hemlock (Aug 3, 2011)

Glad to hear you fixed it.  The folks here helped me repair my Kenmore a couple of weeks ago as well.  Saved me quite a few dollars (ended up replacing the circuit board as well).


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