# Freezer efficiency/ fixing door gasket



## pybyr (Jan 16, 2012)

Hello all-

I have a 2002 vintage Sears upright freezer.

Door gasket no longer seals properly at the upper left corner (top corner opposite the hinge)  

It's as if the magnet has lost its pull so that the gasket in the corner does not snug against the body of the freezer

This makes it turn itself into an ice cave.

Door gasket, from what I have found online, is about $75 (OUCH)

How much have freezers' efficiency improved since 2002?

I don't have the money for a new freezer, but I also can't see putting $75 into a machine that is inefficient or near its life span

I welcome informed input, which includes any ways to make the old gasket "make do" for now

Thanks!


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## Slow1 (Jan 16, 2012)

If it is just a matter of getting it to fit snug, I have seen folks use various things to hold the door shut more securely.  My BIL has screwed a couple eye hooks into his and secures the door with a bungie cord, that provides good tension to hold it shut quite well insuring a good seal.  Not really pretty, but functional.  I'm sure there are more attractive solutions as well...

E.


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## maple1 (Jan 16, 2012)

We have a 15 year old Sears fridge. Not a freezer but bear with me.

I noticed what sounds like the same thing about 5 years ago. Hinge on right, handle to open door on left, at the top. There was a noticable gap at the top left. Upon lots of closer inspection & much exacting measurement (eye balling), I determined that the door was warped. So, I rounded up some (3) pipe clamps from my woodworking area, and set out to unwarp it. I clamped one pair of clamps front to back on the hinge side, top & bottom, to maintain its position. I opened the door just a touch, just enough to put a wood block (think I used a piece of 2x4) at bottom left, and put the third clamp front to back at top left. I tightened that one until the door straightened out. After a few careful clamp adjustments & procedures, the door closed perfect all the way around, and it has stayed that way. Cost = 0.

I don't think it was that way when we got it - but didn't pay it much attention, being a new fridge & all. Only thing I can think that caused it was years of being yanked open at the top left corner.

Hope that helped.


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## jebatty (Jan 16, 2012)

Before you think about a new freezer at any time, put a Kill-o-Watt or similar on your existing freezer and see what the electrical use actually is. I had a 1950's vintage refrig, bad gaskets, that I thought I should replace, both for size/looks and energy savings. After checking on its actual use of electricity, it beat the new Energy Star numbers.


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## fishingpol (Jan 16, 2012)

If it is a freezer on top, check the top hinge.  The have some play in them if they get loose.  Sometimes a slight adjustment and re-tightening of the screws can make a difference.  Try the dollar bill test around the perimeter, just like a stove door.


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## pybyr (Jan 17, 2012)

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.  I fooled with the gasket a bit and found that by some strategic tugging and cussing, it seems to have shifted in a way that the inner magnetic strip now does (mostly) pull tight to the body of the freezer.  Will look again tomorrow to see if it has stayed that way.  Will try some of the other ideas here as well if it still has trouble sealing.

Thanks again for the always practical and helpful input here.


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## heat seeker (Jan 18, 2012)

I also think the door is warped. It's just sheet metal. When mine did that, I just grabbed the two corners opposite the hinges, and twisted the door, not too hard. A couple of times of that, and the door sealed just fine.


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## mrfjsf (Jan 18, 2012)

jebatty said:
			
		

> I had a 1950's vintage refrig, bad gaskets, that I thought I should replace, both for size/looks and energy savings. After checking on its actual use of electricity, it beat the new Energy Star numbers.



Oh the joys of R-12. I miss it...

To the OP, honestly keep your freezer if you can get it to stop leaking air. I have used hasps in the past to seal up leaky freezer doors and it works quite well. I have a large older upright that used to be R-12 that I converted over to 406a due to a leak. Ill run that ole girl till she flat out quits. It uses next to nothing for electricity and never gives me any problems. The seal is a little leaky, but not enough for me to fuss over. Keep your freezer, the new ones arent built like yours, I promise.


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