# Converting a central air unit to a heat pump?



## JRP3 (Oct 27, 2020)

I've been wanting to add a heat pump to my house and have been looking at either a mini split or a central unit.  I currently have a central air AC unit attached to my oil furnace which is really overkill.  My house is small and in the woods so I only use AC for a few hours a few days of the year.  Most of my heating is with wood.  I've been wondering if I could replace the external compressor unit with a heat pump and use the existing lines and indoor heat exchanger which would make installation easier and keep costs down.  Is this possible?  

I also wondered about modifying the AC unit to run in reverse like a heat pump but the little bit of research I've done makes it seem as if it would be difficult but can be done.


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## Brian26 (Oct 27, 2020)

I saw you installed a Mr Cool in your other post. They make a whole house unit for $2800 with the same quick connect fittings. Really impressive cold performance as well. Full heat output to -5 degrees and 78 percent at -22.









						MRCOOL Universal Series DC Inverter Split System  |  MRCOOL
					

Advanced DC Inverter Technology. The MRCOOL Universal Series -  Up to 20 SEER Central Heat & Air Systems




					mrcool.com


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## peakbagger (Oct 27, 2020)

JRP3 said:


> I've been wanting to add a heat pump to my house and have been looking at either a mini split or a central unit.  I currently have a central air AC unit attached to my oil furnace which is really overkill.  My house is small and in the woods so I only use AC for a few hours a few days of the year.  Most of my heating is with wood.  I've been wondering if I could replace the external compressor unit with a heat pump and use the existing lines and indoor heat exchanger which would make installation easier and keep costs down.  Is this possible?
> 
> I also wondered about modifying the AC unit to run in reverse like a heat pump but the little bit of research I've done makes it seem as if it would be difficult but can be done.
> [/QUOTE
> ...


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## JRP3 (Oct 27, 2020)

Brian26 said:


> I saw you installed a Mr Cool in your other post. They make a whole house unit for $2800 with the same quick connect fittings. Really impressive cold performance as well. Full heat output to -5 degrees and 78 percent at -22.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes I've looked at that but if I can use the line set and exchanger I already have in place that would save time and money.


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## JRP3 (Oct 27, 2020)

peakbagger said:


> AC ductwork normally is installed in an unconditioned space and the a combination of air leaks and poor insulation means the cooling does not get to the room. Even if you put in superefficient heat pump that loss is still there.


My ductwork is all in the basement which always needs more heat in the winter so losses are not an issue, actually a benefit.  As I said cooling is not a problem, I'm looking for heat.  It sounds as if trying to run the a/c in reverse would be inefficient, what about hooking a heat pump up to my existing lines and heat exchanger?


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## begreen (Oct 27, 2020)

JRP3 said:


> My ductwork is all in the basement which always needs more heat in the winter so losses are not an issue, actually a benefit.  As I said cooling is not a problem, I'm looking for heat.  It sounds as if trying to run the a/c in reverse would be inefficient, what about hooking a heat pump up to my existing lines and heat exchanger?


If the existing system uses a different refrigerant than no. Clearing and cleaning the lines would be very hard and the current refrigerant would need to be captured. Same thing for the heat exchanger.


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## JRP3 (Oct 28, 2020)

It's a Carrier 38TKB probably about 15 years old and it says R22 refrigerant.  I assume a new unit would use R410 or something and not be compatible.  Doing a bit of research R22 operates at lower pressures than R410A and the inside exchanger probably wouldn't handle the higher pressure.  https://iwae.com/resources/videos/c...r410a-refrigerant-ask-expert-episode-167.html
So I guess it's all or nothing, can't half ass this one


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## semipro (Nov 5, 2020)

JRP3 said:


> ... what about hooking a heat pump up to my existing lines and heat exchanger?


No on the heat exchanger, maybe on the lines. 
The existing copper line set might be adequately cleaned using a solvent made for this purpose.  Its not cheap though.








						PF-16 - DiversiTech PF-16 - Pro-Flush HVAC Flushing Solvent (16 oz)
					

DiversiTech PF-16 - Pro-Flush HVAC Flushing Solvent (16 oz) - Pro-Flush HVAC Flushing Solvent (16 oz)<br><br>  Quick and easy method for flushing line sets and other system components during retrofits and cleaning systems after compressor burn-outs.<br><br>




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I'm considering doing something similar where I'd replace my existing system with the Mr. Cool system referenced above using the existing copper lines.  The lines run to my attic inside an interior wall.  Frankly, I'm worried more about condensation and mold occurring on potentially uninsulated lines in the wall than I am about cleaning the existing lines.


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## Highbeam (Nov 6, 2020)

Looks like a great opportunity to replace those old lines with new. You'll get an entirely new, clean, system made for the job. I can see wanting to reuse the electrical system that feeds the heat pump but not the refrigerant lines that have weird gunk/oil/R22 stuff in them plus might be corroded or leak when exposed to the higher pressures.


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## woodgeek (Nov 9, 2020)

Another couple factors....often the CFM required for a Heat Pump in heating mode is higher than the AC.  So the ductwork may be undersized for heating.  

The previous owners of my house (and the neighbors in an identical house) did not put in central air.  I started with large ductwork and a HP.  The neighbor put in those small 'high velocity' ducts and AC.  12 years later, I scrapped the oil boiler 9 years ago, the neighbor took an oil delivery yesterday.

The company that installed their AC.... also services and sells oil boilers and sells them oil.  Just sayin'.

Other factor... most people that put in HPs also put in electric backup.  The coils are CHEAP, but you need hefty wiring for that separate from the air handler wiring.  I think I my wiring to the attic has a 100A, 240V breaker.


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