# Basement Ceiling:  Dropped or Sheetrock?



## velvetfoot (Jul 30, 2011)

My thoughts are turning round to the basement, again, and what kind of ceiling to install.

I'm thinking for future accessability and ease of installation it would be dropped, and for better looks, and maybe cheaper if I could actually finish the ceiling myself.

I've seen the CeilingLink product which makes for less clearance, but again, more cost.  http://ceilinglink.com/

I did a search and saw Peggy's interesting post about attaching some stained luan with darker furring strips, which could be taken down with a little effort.

Thanks.


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## jimbom (Jul 30, 2011)

Fire code would argue for sheetrock.  Housing valuation would argue for sheetrock.
http://www.ncrec.state.nc.us/publications-bulletins/sqft.html
is a link to a generally applicable national standard for placing value on your home.


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## heat seeker (Jul 30, 2011)

I've had both, in different houses. I cursed the sheetrock ceiling because I had no access to plumbing or wiring on multiple occasions. The sheetrock will give you a bit more headroom, the dropped will reduce noise in the basement a bit. If I had to do it again, I'd go with the dropped ceiling.


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## btuser (Jul 30, 2011)

Split it up.  drop in the center/access points if needed and drywall for soffits and and coffered ceilings.  Most basements are going to have a beam down the center, and the plumbing usually runs predominately on one side.  I've got nothing but drywall and there have been occasions where I've simply had to cut the ceiling to do what I needed to do.  PITA.  

2' square tiles of a good quality look good.  I've seen it look really nice when the grid is set at an angle (tough and a lot of work) in smaller areas.  Yep.  If I had my choice I'd want a drop ceiling but as mentioned headroom is important


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## joefrompa (Jul 31, 2011)

My basement uses sheetrock on soffit areas and then wood flooring (with a beveled edge) for the rest of the ceiling. 

The wood flooring is a really interesting look - and you have to understand that it's not one look. YOU pick the finish. I actually don't like mine alot - medium depth color and semi-gloss finish (previous owner installed it). I saw a ceiling out in San Diego done in a lighter, more natural tone and matte finish and it looked freaking amazing. 

The benefit of wood is that it gives you the height benefits of drywall with the accessibility of a drop-ceiling as long as you use screws. For example - one of my hose faucets had a burst pipe this spring when I first turned it on. It took 5 minutes, but I was able to drop about 6 boards and get enough access to see where it had burst (and know I'd have to knock into the wall to fix it).

Anyway, I'd rate wood flooring as in between on the amount of work. As long as you've got wood joists above, then you already have attachment points. You can buy it pre-finished, or finish it yourself. It's more expensive @ $2-5 square foot pre finished for the most part. 

But once you get setup, you simply cut it to length, pre-drill some pilots, and screw it into your joists. 

If you want an incredible look, I recommend checking out this website and looking at "view 2": http://www.armstrong.com/resclgam/na/ceilings/en/us/planks.asp?shapeId=3

A nice thick plank, unfinished then painted white, with a nice crown molding finishing it off. Oh yeah.

Joe


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## velvetfoot (Jul 31, 2011)

May I ask more info on the screws?  Brass, countersunk?  
The last wood floor I put in was tongue in groove, 3/4".
I didn't think you could just go in at random, and take some out, or are you saying if you take out 6, there'll be enough slack so they'll come out?


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## joefrompa (Jul 31, 2011)

Every board is screwed in to the joists in my ceiling - maybe a pro has it a different way, I won't comment. Mine are counter-sunk about 1/4" and just drywall screws and honestly I barely see them. However, there are also options with minimal head sizes or better color matching.

Since each of mine are screwed in, I simply zipped out the screws in 6 planks and dropped them. They aren't grooved into each other.


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## Badfish740 (Jul 31, 2011)

I'm still working on my basement-here's what I did:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/75449/

The pics of the ceiling are toward the bottom of the first page and the top of the second page.  Most of the ceiling is sheetrocked but I needed to drop the ceiling a few inches to clear some plumbing, plus I wanted to have access to it so I came up with a homebuilt panelized ceiling using beadboard plywood and 1x lumber.


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## semipro (Jul 31, 2011)

I'm pulling down sheetrock throughout my basement to make some mechanical system changes (wiring, plumbing, ducting).  One reason; condensation from pipes was creating mold problems on the upper surface of the sheetrock.  I don't think the basement is any place for sheetrock for a variety of reasons.  I plan to install some other alternative that provides easy access.  This is one system I"m considering (link below).  Since it attaches directly to floor joists headroom is nearly that of sheetrock.  

http://www.acpideas.com/index.cfm?XlinkID=13


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## Frozen Canuck (Jul 31, 2011)

No contest, hands down winner every time is the suspended system. 
Gives you total access to all areas at anytime in the future. 
If you intend to do anywork or hire it out you will never regret it. 
The system will pay for itself the first time you dont have to demolish first before doing/having any work done. 
I have done hundreds over the years & if it helps my house has all suspended ceilings in the basement except for the mech rm which has no ceiling.


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## velvetfoot (Jul 31, 2011)

Thanks Joe;  I've never heard of flooring boards that weren't t&g.

Badfish, you're part of the reason I'm thinking about the basement now (that, and the pile of logs are now 'processed').

Semipro, I've read that the CeilingLink stuff is cheaper and easier www.ceilinglink.com .

FC, I think I'm going to go that route.  There's 8' headroom if I can manage to get the panels to fit right under the steel beam.  That way no boxing out, but some more sheetrock work to box out around the one window and stairs.   Maybe I'll build a mechanical room, but I kinda like to see what's going on there.


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## SolarAndWood (Jul 31, 2011)

I like to spray the ceiling glossy white when I gut a house.  No moisture, no stink, easy access to the systems, max height and relatively inexpensive especially if you have the mechanicals out anyway.


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## semipro (Jul 31, 2011)

I just thought I'd mention one treatment I saw in a restaurant once.  They painted the entire ceiling area including mechanicals, joists, etc. flat black and then used brightly colored wire/string to create a grid below it.  The grid was the same size as standard suspended ceiling tiles.  The string grid gave you the impression that there was a ceiling there.   I noticed there actually was no ceiling after a while and asked others at our table nearby if they had noticed.  Without looking up first, all thought there was a suspended ceiling.


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## velvetfoot (Jul 31, 2011)

I went downstairs and am waffling re: suspended.
I like the idea of something removable against the joists, but maybe not sheetrock.


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## semipro (Jul 31, 2011)

velvetfoot said:
			
		

> I went downstairs and am waffling re: suspended.
> I like the idea of something removable against the joists, but maybe not sheetrock.



I wonder if you could do something like picture frame paneling that is used on walls??  You could build squares out of plywood or some other material with dimensions in some multiple of your joist spacing (e.g. 16", 32", whatever), screw them up, and then use some trim of some sort to cover the joints.


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## yooperdave (Aug 1, 2011)

based on past experience, go with a dropped ceiling throughout the basement.  although you may not have any plans/reasons to access the "goodies" in the joists (electrical, phone, tv, plumbing, heating, etc.) the day will come when you will need to get in there to check something.  that's when you'll be glad you went with a dropped ceiling!


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## Swedishchef (Aug 1, 2011)

I am currently working on my ceiling myself. What I did was this: installed 4X8 sheets of veneered plywood (that looks like oak). Before installation I stained with a nice dark brown finish to give it a rustic look. Where the sheets meet, I used lats with screws. It makes it look rustic and look like houses used to (with lats at the joints). I found drop ceilings are practical but fairly expensive (for 1400 square feet) and gyprock is a PITA when you need access to pull wires, repair the upstairs sink, etc.

Damned if ya do and damned if ya dont.

Andrew


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## velvetfoot (Aug 2, 2011)

Andrew, 

How did you fasten the sheets to the joists, other than the edges?  (Not sure exactly what lats mean, but I'm thinking wood strips, maybe stained a litle darker?
That can't be enough to hold it place, can it?

Is this stuff easier to put up than gyprock?  Lighter?  1/2" thick?  Possible for one person?  Drywall lift required?  I imagine it would be easier because it wouldn't be as easy to scar as the gyprock.

VF


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## Swedishchef (Aug 2, 2011)

VF

I should have explained a bit better. My time to type was limited as my soon to be 1 year old is obssessed with LED light and is always trying to turn OFF my computer tower. LOL.

I put strapping on the joists, 1/2 inch. The sheets are fairly lightweight, lighter than gyprock but having a second person for the isntall is certainly easier. 

To hold them up, I used 1 inch screws. Screw along the edges. Screw at the edge, middle and edge of the 8 foot side (giving a line of screws in the middle along the length). 2 foot spread perpendicular to the 8 foot length is also perfect. That way it looks like you have 2X2 squares with moldings.

Yes, lats are strips of wood. I put those strips over my screw lines, stained darker for a nice contrast.

And you're certainly right: no chips, dents, pieces missing, dust, etc compared to gyprock. And it's almost the same price. No plastering, painting, etc. And when  it comes to a drop ceiling, no hangers, trying to line up the edges with a 360 degree level, etc etc etc.

It was an idea a furniture friend of mine had at his place. His house reminds me of an old antique house because of the ceiling but much nicer.

A.


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## velvetfoot (Aug 2, 2011)

thanks much


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## Swedishchef (Aug 2, 2011)

Let me know what you decide to do and post some pics!

Andrew


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## velvetfoot (Aug 2, 2011)

I stopped by HD and looked around.
The cheapest dropped ceiling tile was $.58/ft2 and one step up drop edge (or whatever it's called) was $.70/ft2;  that's just for the tile.  Thing is, they'll always make them.
They did have some 1/4" "hardwood" plywood from Equador for $20/sheet.  Underlayment was $12/sheet (didn't actually look too bad).
I thought soffit-type material could be used;  I think I have something similar on the ceiling of the screened in porch and it looks like beadboard-I can see using a siding removal tool to unhook a section to get access, even while it's still screwed into the joist, and snap it back up when finished.

My main concern is to stop the fiberglass fibers from dropping from the batts in the ceiling.
I was even thinking of just stapling up some landscape fabric.

In any event, I think I'll prob. do the walls first.


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## seige101 (Aug 4, 2011)

I agree with the other comments. Drop ceiling! Access to all the mechanical systems is a must. Especially in an emergency situation (burst pipe, arcing wire etc) It also allows access for future repairs and upgrades


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