# Ausroflamm Integra auger feed problems



## Jaxon (Sep 15, 2012)

I own a used Austroflamm Integra that will go through normal start up cycle and feed pellets intermittantly for approximately 2 minutes(red light comes on) the combustion motor runs, but then the auger motor will not come on again at all after that. The combustion motor continues to run and after about 7 minutes after start up, the convection fan will turn on and you can adjust the fan speed. But, no more pellets.
I have replaced both the high and low limit switches and replaced the air flow sensor. I have also sent the user control panel, wiring harness, air sensor, and the motherboard in for testing and repair to the Austroflamm specialist pelletstoverepair.com and he is at a loss and assures me that my electronics are working normally.
The stove is clean inside and out and the door is well-sealed. Any suggestions as I don't know what to do next and am at the point of giving up on this stove.


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## imacman (Sep 15, 2012)

Is the "air flow sensor" you mentioned the same as the vacuum switch most of us have on our stoves?  If not, does the Integra have a vacuum switch?

If the switch doesn't see vacuum or low vacuum, the auger stops feeding pellets as a safety precaution.  Usually caused by a plugged-up exhaust system, plugged-up tube leading from firebox to vacuum switch, or faulty switch.


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## smwilliamson (Sep 15, 2012)

Check the auger bushing at the plate of the auger housing. I betcha it is worn out and is stopping the motor. Additionally, the auger motor itself is most likely worn out from trying to turn the auger shaft with resistance (the worn bushing). Tell tale signs of this is pellet dust collecting under the auger in a pyramid like fashion. Grab a hold of the auger motor and rotate it by hand, motor and all. look at the brass bushing. is it turning with the auger shaft? it shouldn't. The remedy would be to replace the bushing and the motor.


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## Jaxon (Sep 15, 2012)

There is no vacuum switch. The Austroflamm uses and electronic air sensor that's mounted within the fresh air intake tube. The guy that tested my electrical components said it seemed like the stove was acting like it was not reading good airflow, but also assured me that my air sensor was working properly.


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## Jaxon (Sep 15, 2012)

smwilliamson said:


> Check the auger bushing at the plate of the auger housing. I betcha it is worn out and is stopping the motor. Additionally, the auger motor itself is most likely worn out from trying to turn the auger shaft with resistance (the worn bushing). Tell tale signs of this is pellet dust collecting under the auger in a pyramid like fashion. Grab a hold of the auger motor and rotate it by hand, motor and all. look at the brass bushing. is it turning with the auger shaft? it shouldn't. The remedy would be to replace the bushing and the motor.





smwilliamson said:


> Check the auger bushing at the plate of the auger housing. I betcha it is worn out and is stopping the motor. Additionally, the auger motor itself is most likely worn out from trying to turn the auger shaft with resistance (the worn bushing). Tell tale signs of this is pellet dust collecting under the auger in a pyramid like fashion. Grab a hold of the auger motor and rotate it by hand, motor and all. look at the brass bushing. is it turning with the auger shaft? it shouldn't. The remedy would be to replace the bushing and the motor.


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## Jaxon (Sep 15, 2012)

I have manually checked the auger motor and it moves the auger and dispenses pellets when I do without moving the brass bushing. The auger motor comes on every time on startup but then stops dispensing, no light, no motor noise after the first two minutes.
I should also add that when both motors come on, they stay on and run indefinitely even when I turn the stove switch off and I eventually have the unplug it.


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## smwilliamson (Sep 15, 2012)

Has the stove ever worked for you through an entire season of are you new to it? Did you trace the wiring harness to make sure the inputs and outputs are correct on the mother board? Does your stove have auto ignite?


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## smwilliamson (Sep 15, 2012)

Did Joe test the EPROM?


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## smwilliamson (Sep 15, 2012)

Ah....make sure the thermostat connections are bridged. If the stove it not calling for heat (closed circuit) the stove will shut down...off the terminal block, you want to bridge the brown and blue wires with a jumper. (paper clip?)


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## Jaxon (Sep 15, 2012)

smwilliamson said:


> Did Joe test the EPROM?


Joe 





smwilliamson said:


> Did Joe test the EPROM?


Yes Joe did test everything and updated the computer and put a surge protector on. He said the wiring harness and components all tested good. 
I have only had the stove a few months and it does not have an igniter.


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## Jaxon (Sep 15, 2012)

smwilliamson said:


> Ah....make sure the thermostat connections are bridged. If the stove it not calling for heat (closed circuit) the stove will shut down...off the terminal block, you want to bridge the brown and blue wires with a jumper. (paper clip?)


There is a jumper already between the brown and blue wires on the block


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## smwilliamson (Sep 15, 2012)

Trace the brown and blue wires and check for continuity through the circuit. Your problem is either there OR with the EPROM or perhaps you have a faulty hall sensor in the combustion motor...lets hope not, that motor is 6 bills


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## imacman (Sep 15, 2012)

The fact that the stove starts and runs 2 minutes before the auger motor stops sounds like air flow sensor not seeing proper airflow.....Was the stove completely disassembled and cleaned of all ash? 

I've never worked on one of these, so I'm guessing......am I on the right track Scott?


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## smwilliamson (Sep 15, 2012)

What did he update the EPROM to? v3.1?


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## smwilliamson (Sep 15, 2012)

During start up, if the air flow sensor sees a drop in air flow (increase stoves pressure) prior to the LT sensor closing (low limit) the auger will stop feeding...dirty stove...blocked flue or defective air sensor. Additionally, the combustion motor is equipped with hall sensors to measure RPMs, if the hall sensors are defective the auger will also stop feeding because it thinks the motor is not turning. There are test stips on the back of the control board to test for 2.5v across the hall sensors during operation. Lastly, if the LT switch was replaced with something which is not rated for millivolts, there is a chance the switch may be absorbing the 5v signal and not returning to the board...also the auger will stop...I pretty sure.

troubleshooting manual: http://pelletstoverepair.com/IntegraTechManual.pdf


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## Jaxon (Sep 16, 2012)

smwilliamson said:


> During start up, if the air flow sensor sees a drop in air flow (increase stoves pressure) prior to the LT sensor closing (low limit) the auger will stop feeding...dirty stove...blocked flue or defective air sensor. Additionally, the combustion motor is equipped with hall sensors to measure RPMs, if the hall sensors are defective the auger will also stop feeding because it thinks the motor is not turning. There are test stips on the back of the control board to test for 2.5v across the hall sensors during operation. Lastly, if the LT switch was replaced with something which is not rated for millivolts, there is a chance the switch may be absorbing the 5v signal and not returning to the board...also the auger will stop...I pretty sure.
> 
> Hall sensors in the combustion motor? I have never heard of this and am not too electrically savy. Would i use an ohm meter?The Stove is clean in and out and I don't think that airflow is the problem.
> 
> troubleshooting manual: http://pelletstoverepair.com/IntegraTechManual.pdf


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## Jaxon (Sep 16, 2012)

Hall sensors in the combustion motor? I havent heard of that before. I am not too electrically savvy. How would I test this component or any of the other wires---with an ohm meter? The stove is clean inside and out and I don't think that airflow is the problem.


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## smwilliamson (Sep 16, 2012)

Digital multi meter. Follow direction in the troubleshooting guide i provided.


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## smwilliamson (Sep 16, 2012)

Jaxon, you have a very good stove. If all of the electronics test out ok, then the problem has to reside with other components from the stove. Joe, the man you sent the parts to is very knowledgeable and provides a very good service. If he says that they are testing out OK, then you are in fact ok in that regard. Problem #1 is eliminated, the mother board, air flow sensor and control pad are good. If you replaced the two switches for the stove and used factory recommended parts, then those are ok. If the auger bushing is not restricting the rotation of the auger shaft, then you have eliminated that.

Things to do:

A bad LT switch will give you these symptoms OR replacement of this switch with an aftermarket switch NOT rated for low voltage will do the same OR faulty connection from the terminal block to or on the switch
A bad air flow sensor will give you these symptoms. Make sure the air flow sensor is installed with the circuitry toward the outside of the stove. Make sure the the venting is not obstructed OR the air flow is obstructed within the stove (CLEAN IT!). IF you raker rods do not move up and down freely, the exhaust holes at the bottom of the rake may be filled with ash. Make sure the wiring to the air flow sensor is connected and seated properly as well as is connected to the proper in/out on the mother board.
A bad hall sensor on the combustion motor will give you these problems as the mother board cannot tell that the motor is actually turning or turning fast enough.
The combustion motor hall sensors ARE working but the motor isn't spinning freely OR the capicitor to start the motor is bad and the motor is in fact not moving OR there us an obstruction at the motor not allowing the motor to spin.
Diagrams to trouble shoot are included.


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## Mark_ms (Sep 16, 2012)

smwilliamson said:


> .
> 
> Things to do
> IF you *raker rods do not move up and down freely, the exhaust holes at the bottom of the rake may be filled with ash*. Make sure the wiring to the air flow sensor is connected and seated properly as well as is connected to the proper in/out on the mother board.


 
Jason you have stated the stove is clean...have you checked you flue??
The raker rods should make a metallic sound when using them especially when the rods are at the bottom of the stroke if it sounds more like a "thud" you have an ash buildup and needs to be cleaned. To clean the tubes you need to remove the upper and lower cast wall to inspect the airflow tubes. Remove the upper one first (2 bolts) then the lower one (3bolts) use caution as they are heavy. You do not have to remove the door to do this.

Here is a link to a picture of cast wall before and after removal pics.


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## Jaxon (Sep 16, 2012)

Mark_ms said:


> Jason you have stated the stove is clean...have you checked you flue??
> The raker rods should make a metallic sound when using them especially when the rods are at the bottom of the stroke if it sounds more like a "thud" you have an ash buildup and needs to be cleaned. To clean the tubes you need to remove the upper and lower cast wall to inspect the airflow tubes. Remove the upper one first (2 bolts) then the lower one (3bolts) use caution as they are heavy. You do not have to remove the door to do this.
> 
> Here is a link to a picture of cast wall before and after removal pics.





Mark_ms said:


> Jason you have stated the stove is clean...have you checked you flue??
> The raker rods should make a metallic sound when using them especially when the rods are at the bottom of the stroke if it sounds more like a "thud" you have an ash buildup and needs to be cleaned. To clean the tubes you need to remove the upper and lower cast wall to inspect the airflow tubes. Remove the upper one first (2 bolts) then the lower one (3bolts) use caution as they are heavy. You do not have to remove the door to do this.
> 
> Here is a link to a picture of cast wall before and after removal pics.


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## Jaxon (Sep 16, 2012)

I have taken everything apart and cleaned everything out.


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## Jaxon (Sep 16, 2012)

smwilliamson said:


> Jaxon, you have a very good stove. If all of the electronics test out ok, then the problem has to reside with other components from the stove. Joe, the man you sent the parts to is very knowledgeable and provides a very good service. If he says that they are testing out OK, then you are in fact ok in that regard. Problem #1 is eliminated, the mother board, air flow sensor and control pad are good. If you replaced the two switches for the stove and used factory recommended parts, then those are ok. If the auger bushing is not restricting the rotation of the auger shaft, then you have eliminated that.
> 
> Things to do:
> 
> ...


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## Jaxon (Sep 16, 2012)

I will try testing with a multimeter and get back to you on my findings.


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## Jaxon (Sep 16, 2012)

smwilliamson said:


> Jaxon, you have a very good stove. If all of the electronics test out ok, then the problem has to reside with other components from the stove. Joe, the man you sent the parts to is very knowledgeable and provides a very good service. If he says that they are testing out OK, then you are in fact ok in that regard. Problem #1 is eliminated, the mother board, air flow sensor and control pad are good. If you replaced the two switches for the stove and used factory recommended parts, then those are ok. If the auger bushing is not restricting the rotation of the auger shaft, then you have eliminated that.
> 
> Things to do:
> 
> ...


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## Jaxon (Sep 16, 2012)

Here's what been able to test so far. Both the air flow and auger test points are reading as they should. 5 V DC when turned counter clockwise and 0 V DC clockwise. The hall sensor reads a constant 0 and the combustion motor is on and spinning freely. What else should I test for? Does this mean I need a new combustion motor?


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## Jaxon (Sep 17, 2012)

smwilliamson said:


> Jaxon, you have a very good stove. If all of the electronics test out ok, then the problem has to reside with other components from the stove. Joe, the man you sent the parts to is very knowledgeable and provides a very good service. If he says that they are testing out OK, then you are in fact ok in that regard. Problem #1 is eliminated, the mother board, air flow sensor and control pad are good. If you replaced the two switches for the stove and used factory recommended parts, then those are ok. If the auger bushing is not restricting the rotation of the auger shaft, then you have eliminated that.
> 
> Things to do:
> 
> ...


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## Jaxon (Sep 17, 2012)

So I guess with my multimeter readings on the hall sensor test point that I need to buy a new combustion blower.


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## smwilliamson (Sep 17, 2012)

yup. or replace the sensor...not sure how to do that though...


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## Jaxon (Sep 29, 2012)

I replaced the combustion motor yesterday and finally everything worked as it should. Thanks for all the help!


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## zuluflyer (Dec 20, 2012)

imacman said:


> Is the "air flow sensor" you mentioned the same as the vacuum switch most of us have on our stoves? If not, does the Integra have a vacuum switch?
> 
> If the switch doesn't see vacuum or low vacuum, the auger stops feeding pellets as a safety precaution. Usually caused by a plugged-up exhaust system, plugged-up tube leading from firebox to vacuum switch, or faulty switch.


I have tracked down, thanks to this forum, that my Austroflamm Integra air sensor is bad.  Examining it, I do notice some slight brown 'scorch' marks on the little white bump of glue or whatever it is on one of the legs.  BTW anyone know how these sensors function and if and electronics "hobbyist" could repair it?  Anyway HERE IS MY QUESTION.....short of repairing, has anyone ever successfully 'Hotwired" around one of these?---I'm freezing and the part is backordered across the USA til next year.  There are 4 wires, red, white, black, and green.  Which colors get jumped???  I just need the auger to function until my part arrives.  THANKS!


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## heat seeker (Dec 20, 2012)

Welcome to the forum!

It's probably a generically available part, and bypassing it is strongly discouraged for more than a quick test. It's a safety device, and needs to be working. 
Most vacuum switches just have two wires, I don't know why yours has four.

You might get better exposure if you start a new thread. Jaxon's problem has been solved, and it's his thread.


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## zuluflyer (Dec 21, 2012)

heat seeker said:


> Welcome to the forum!
> 
> It's probably a generically available part, and bypassing it is strongly discouraged for more than a quick test. It's a safety device, and needs to be working.
> Most vacuum switches just have two wires, I don't know why yours has four.
> ...


Thank you heat seeker.....will do


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## smwilliamson (Dec 21, 2012)

Seems you could order an air sensor from a Rika dealership...they use the same exact part.


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