# How do I get these pipes apart



## stallau (Dec 4, 2011)

I disconnected the T coming off he back of the stove and when I put it back on the inner lining of the pipe got bent so now it doesn't sit right. How do I get the T separated from the vertical pipe so I can replace it???

I tried heating the connection with a torch to heat up the silicone but it doesn't want to release it - is there a sawz all in my future on this one??

Thanks


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## Czech (Dec 4, 2011)

I've been down the sawzall road myself, not sure what you have but I can say for sure the direct-temp stuff sucks getting apart again.


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## smoke show (Dec 4, 2011)

I've been told direct temp will not come apart after use.


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## imacman (Dec 4, 2011)

This is one of the main reasons I do not use silicone on any of my pipes except for the appliance adapter to stove connection.

Everything else is taped with furnace tape.....easy to get apart by either un-taping, or just cutting through the tape with a utility knife.


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## DneprDave (Dec 4, 2011)

Heat won't do you any good with silicone. Get a strap wrench and twist the joint apart. Remember, lefty loosey righty tighty! Silicone makes a lousy adhesive and will shear easily. 

Dave


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## stoveguy2esw (Dec 4, 2011)

DneprDave said:
			
		

> Heat won't do you any good with silicone. Get a strap wrench and twist the joint apart. Remember, lefty loosey righty tighty! Silicone makes a lousy adhesive and will shear easily.
> 
> Dave



+1

i use 2 strap wrenches one on each side of the joint turning against each other doesnt crimp the pipe and breaks silicone seals a lot easier. the "sawzall" solution is a waste of time, if it comes to that dont waste your time just buy new pipe as you cant cut then rejoin pellet vent pipe


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## bond1973 (Dec 4, 2011)

I am about to install my pellet stove with chimney and this is one concern I had.  Should I not silicone each piece?  Is it feasible to push these together and twist them, per instructions, and be able to twist them back off if needed down the road?  I would think once it's all twisted and hooked up I would have difficulty untwisting to disconnect the stove...


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## jtakeman (Dec 4, 2011)

2 strap wrenches work wonders. If the pipes were siliconed together? Heat them up first to loosen the bond! I use a heat gun.

Keep the strap wrenches close to crimped or formed features. The pipe is stronger in those area's and less apt to crush.


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## MarkF48 (Dec 4, 2011)

On my install I siliconed the joints and seams which are out of sight behind the stove on the outside of the vent pipe. On the joints that were visible as it went up to the chimney flue I used hi-temp tape. For the cap on the cleanout tee I made a gasket using silicone spread on folded  over aluminum foil, allowed to dry and clamped this around the cap joint with an O-ring clamp. No smoke or leaks and I believe I can take the pipe apart fairly easily.
If you have the cleanout T inside the house and you're using budget Duravent, the rope gasket likely won't seal the cap well. I ended up filling the gap on the end cap that contacts the inside rope gasket between the inner SS and outer shell with silicone and letting it dry.


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## imacman (Dec 4, 2011)

bond1973 said:
			
		

> I am about to install my pellet stove with chimney and this is one concern I had.  Should I not silicone each piece?  Is it feasible to push these together and twist them, per instructions, and be able to twist them back off if needed down the road?  I would think once it's all twisted and hooked up I would have difficulty untwisting to disconnect the stove...


One way to make pipes easier to untwist is to put a thin coating of anti-seize on the parts before assembly.  Hi temp anti-seize is good to use, but regular will work fine too.....joints come apart by hand.


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## Don2222 (Dec 5, 2011)

imacman said:
			
		

> This is one of the main reasons I do not use silicone on any of my pipes except for the appliance adapter to stove connection.
> 
> Everything else is taped with furnace tape.....easy to get apart by either un-taping, or just cutting through the tape with a utility knife.



X2 imacman

This is true for especially for Simpson Duravent, not sure about other brands.

I just installed a double T and to be sure I can get the pipes off for cleaning next time I used Never-Seez on the joints! With the Never-Seez I always can turn the pipes to the full locking position which I could not do before! A good lock works well for me! Then I too use the foil high temp tape for the chimney adapter.

Now for cleaning there is no need to pull them apart, just twist off the end caps that are also swiped with Never-Seez!!


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## DneprDave (Dec 5, 2011)

What does it never see? lol

Dave


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## abrucerd (Dec 5, 2011)

DneprDave said:
			
		

> What does it never see? lol
> 
> Dave



smoke


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## 3650 (Dec 5, 2011)

i tried strap wrenches but they crushed the pipe. i had the close to the joint as possible without pinching the joint and it didnt matter.  i cut the pipe and reconnected with an adjustable pipe. just slipped it into the cut end with silicone and tape. i couldnt see throwing out $400 worth of pipe.


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## TLHinCanada (Dec 6, 2011)

I don't want to be a downer but if there is ever a fire don't count on your insurance coveringing it.  You have damaged the pipe and voided the UL warrenty on it.  Silicone is a not only a sealant but an adhesive.  Use it on the outside by all means, do not use it inside the joints.


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## jtakeman (Dec 6, 2011)

3650 said:
			
		

> i tried strap wrenches but they crushed the pipe. i had the close to the joint as possible without pinching the joint and it didnt matter.  i cut the pipe and reconnected with an adjustable pipe. just slipped it into the cut end with silicone and tape. i couldnt see throwing out $400 worth of pipe.



Did you use heat?

Cutting the pipe? And reconnecting, That can't be good! Where's the code police hiding??? :red:


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