# Tempwood users out there?



## nosaudioil (Jan 11, 2011)

I'd like to hear some input from those still using the Tempwood stoves from the '80s
Thanks!


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## webbie (Jan 12, 2011)

More like 1970's..........popular in 79.....although continued to be sold a few years after.

Not many user out there, I suppose.....
I used the Patriot, a more modern copy of the design. I was lukewarm about it - I have burned worse, but also burned better!


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## kwikrp (Jan 12, 2011)

my brother has one and also has a magic heat attached to it and it does him and his family very well.


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## nosaudioil (Jan 13, 2011)

Thanks for the input regarding the Tempwood!
Here's some of my input. I currently use a Tempwood 2 (late 1983) installed in our cellar for a power failure fall-back (no frozen pipes etc) Since I like the stove I've recently picked up another Tempwood 2 (1979) just because. The company went out of business in 1983 (Mowhawk Co.). There are three versions that I know of, the Tempwood 2 "large size" 55,000 BTU, Tempwood 5 smaller size 35,000 BTU, and a Tempcoal.
___ this stove is, as you know, a "downdraft" type load&light; from the top.
___ the heat is very quickly available after lighting.
___ very, very simple to use (even for me)
___ no hot coals/embers, logs etc. can spill out. (unless you personally scoop out hot coals)
___ a given would be a good drafted chimney
___ the stove is buttugly, but works very well.
___ any more info about the "newer" version The Patriot?

Thanks!


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## Joe Fire maker (Feb 1, 2011)

we are building tempwood prototype now the business is underthe same ownership just some testing before we produce


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## Fsappo (Feb 1, 2011)

We sold them in Warrensburg back in the mid 80s, if we're talking about the black box with the two top holes in the top that were connected to short tubes that went into the stove.  Was a neat little stove


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## Joe Fire maker (Feb 1, 2011)

Did you sell them for us?


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## Fsappo (Feb 1, 2011)

I thought we bought them via a distributor, probably BAC sales as old Bobby Cohen and my Pop were pretty close back in the day.  I remember likin the price, likin the idea.  Keep up with the EPA stuff if your gonna get started up again.  Feel free to contact me via email if you have more questions about the industry and its changed over the past 2+ decades.  But be aware, asking your questions here will get you many more answers from folks much more informed than I.  Also, for ease, here is a link to the group you should get cozy with

http://www.hpba.org/


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## nosaudioil (Feb 1, 2011)

Good luck Joe Fire maker! The Tempwood is a very good stove!


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## anotheroldbiker (Mar 23, 2011)

Trying to find a Tempwood 2 manual for my son, so he can get stove certified for potential home buyer. Does anyone have a pdf version or know where one can be found? The last site I was directed to said I could only access it "by invitation only," whatever that means.

Any assistance would be most appreciated.

      /Another Bob


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## Dune (Mar 23, 2011)

I burn a tempwood II. I love it. I guess if I had a blazeking or something I might have different feelings. The tempwood is a great stove for me though. Huge firebox, overnight burns are easy. Safe, logs never roll out the door. It is kind of ugly but it doesn't bother me at all.


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## Dune (Mar 23, 2011)

anotheroldbiker said:
			
		

> Trying to find a Tempwood 2 manual for my son, so he can get stove certified for potential home buyer. Does anyone have a pdf version or know where one can be found? The last site I was directed to said I could only access it "by invitation only," whatever that means.
> 
> Any assistance would be most appreciated.
> 
> /Another Bob



It is on here somewhere (I think). Check the wiki.


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## Creekyphil (Mar 24, 2011)

I'm burning a tempwood II as a shop/garage heater. The quick heat is the best part. The lack of glass would be a big problem in the house (def veto by the little lady).  I also don't think it is the best loading stove. The pipes on the inside get in the way of a solid load, so the stove acts much smaller than the size would indicate.  You also can't get big splits in (relative to the size of the stove) because of the lack of a door.


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## Dune (Mar 24, 2011)

Creekyphil said:
			
		

> I'm burning a tempwood II as a shop/garage heater. The quick heat is the best part. The lack of glass would be a big problem in the house (def veto by the little lady).  I also don't think it is the best loading stove. The pipes on the inside get in the way of a solid load, so the stove acts much smaller than the size would indicate.  You also can't get big splits in (relative to the size of the stove) because of the lack of a door.



This is true, I cut my logs short. They do split easier and season faster that way though.


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## Creekyphil (Mar 25, 2011)

There are two small steel disks, one above each downdrafting tube. They lie flat on the stove top, and have 1 hinge point.  They can rotate 360 degrees, from covering the entire top of the draft tube, to leaving it completely open. The head engineer on this stove was definitely a fan of KISS.


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## Creekyphil (Mar 25, 2011)

As my systems prof would say,"Keep It Simple, Stupid!"


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## nosaudioil (Mar 25, 2011)

I did install a solid damper in the flue (6'') just incase some very high winds might cause an exceeded acceptable stove draft.
I have not used this additional installed flue damper. The Tempwood 2 works great as designed.


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## Creekyphil (Mar 25, 2011)

I use my damper quite a bit. I find that by closing the damper about 3/4, and shutting the air down 3/4, I can get considerably longer burn times than when I just use the air control.


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## nosaudioil (Mar 25, 2011)

You'd be very correct damper use for your location, chimney height and maybe even some minor installation differences. 
To this point, I've only used the two "discs" dampers. 
Burning dry hardwood, more than 12 hrs (or more), I can stirr up significant available hot coals, drop some splits and have a heating stove in less than 15 minutes. 
That is good performance from a 30+ year old woodstove. This does speak very well for the Tempwood original design.


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## bucketboy (Mar 26, 2011)

we burn a largeer tempwood stove, and i agree with other posters, that split size has to be concidered due to only a 10 inch hole in the top of the stove. we use a lot of 6 inch unsplit rounds to obtain longer overnight burns . 12 -14 hours are not unusual. but understand this , these stoves are what they are, and won t cook you out of the house. they do keep the area warm but no excessive heat come from this stove. if i didn t have young teenagers tending to the fire in my absence a new stove would be in it s place. the safety feature is the real keeper reason it sits where it sits. a fan behind it works well to circulate the heat and a ceiling fan pushes heat into other parts of the house. Enjoy your stove , but don t close your mind to a new and improved stove for better burning and cleaner emmissions.


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## nosaudioil (Mar 26, 2011)

Any woodstove performance is tempered by design, then house insulation values, fuel used and finally the operator.
I would never say that the Tempwood is "better than sliced bread" or "sliced scones" if you will. 
There are many better new design stoves on the market for $$$$.
My Tempwood 2 lives in the basement as a heavy lifter. 
It's look to be kind is "Plain".


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## Neil-V1 (Sep 25, 2011)

Hey everyone.  I also just bought a Tempwood 2 after my neighbors raved about theirs for so long.  I do have a question though.  On the stove I got, there are fire bricks on the bottom half perimeter of the stove but there are no bricks on the bottom flat part  of the stove.  There is a separate steel plate that seems to be suspended a bit off the bottom and I was wondering if this is correct or if I should line the bottom with bricks as well?  

We had a top loading downdraft copy of a Tempwood years and years ago I believe but about 15 years ago, we paid big bucks and bought an Avalon front loading glass door stove that we hated.  I thought the venting on the Avalon was poor and it was nearly impossible to load the thing without letting smoke into the house.  We sold the Avalon two years ago and decided to get this Tempwood for the size of the fire box, the top loading and no sparks or smoke coming in the house.  I had a stainless chimney liner installed and our Avalon was hooked directly to it without a disc damper behind the stove.  Now, should I install a damper in with this stove do you think?

Also, I live in the country and never hear people worry about the EPA but on these sites they mention it all the time.  Is it because homeowners insurance wont cover a house fire if using the stove or just for smoke output?  My neighbors Tempwood does not smoke much at all.  Just wondering.  Any help would be great.  The only thing I think I would change on the stove is make the loading space on top a hinged door that could hold itself in the open position and make the door larger.  Anyway, thanks so much.  Neil V.


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## Dune (Sep 25, 2011)

Can't help with the bricks. I took out the orignal bricks and put a layer of sand in the bottom of my Tempwood.

Yes on the damper. Only way to know if it helps is to have one.

Can't help with the EPA thing either.


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## nosaudioil (Sep 25, 2011)

As Pyro said, install about 1" to 1.5" of dry, clean (play sand) sand in the base. As it comes out with cleaning, just add more sand. It's a great stove!


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## Neil-V1 (Sep 27, 2011)

Thanks for the help but I have one more question.  I tried to email a member but I don't think I did it right so I thought I would ask here.  On the back of my Tempwood, there is a 1/4" steel collar (6 inches) that gets hooked up to the stove pipe.  My question is, does the stove pipe fit on the inside of that collar or does it go over the outside (or does it matter) when hooking it up?   Now, this Tempwood is the same as our old one, but the house I bought this from (for $60) had it hooked up with the pipe on the OUTSIDE of the collar and it was held on by three screws.   

Now, the Avalon we just got rid of was hooked up by a sweep after he put in our stainless liner that runs all the way up the chimney.  He had the chimney liner itself attached DIRECTLY to the Avalon stove with no damper or anything and that was also attached OVER the collar on that stove too.  But all the pics I have seen have the stove pipe that fits INTO and not around the collar and these use wood stove cement on the pipe joint / collar.  I just want to make sure I dont screw up the draft and make it easier (or possible) for smoke to come back in the house.  This never happened with our old Tempwood and I dont want to mess it up.  

Thanks for all the help.  This is a great site.  Take care.


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## Dune (Sep 27, 2011)

Neil-V1 said:
			
		

> Thanks for the help but I have one more question.  I tried to email a member but I don't think I did it right so I thought I would ask here.  On the back of my Tempwood, there is a 1/4" steel collar (6 inches) that gets hooked up to the stove pipe.  My question is, does the stove pipe fit on the inside of that collar or does it go over the outside (or does it matter) when hooking it up?   Now, this Tempwood is the same as our old one, but the house I bought this from (for $60) had it hooked up with the pipe on the OUTSIDE of the collar and it was held on by three screws.
> 
> Now, the Avalon we just got rid of was hooked up by a sweep after he put in our stainless liner that runs all the way up the chimney.  He had the chimney liner itself attached DIRECTLY to the Avalon stove with no damper or anything and that was also attached OVER the collar on that stove too.  But all the pics I have seen have the stove pipe that fits INTO and not around the collar and these use wood stove cement on the pipe joint / collar.  I just want to make sure I dont screw up the draft and make it easier (or possible) for smoke to come back in the house.  This never happened with our old Tempwood and I dont want to mess it up.
> 
> Thanks for all the help.  This is a great site.  Take care.



My Tempwood came with an adapter that fit over the stove outlet but inside the stovepipe.


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## Creekyphil (Sep 27, 2011)

My pipe goes over the lip on the stove.  Bead of cement on the ring, then slip on the pipe, then 3 screws.


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## nosaudioil (Sep 27, 2011)

Word usta be: over the stove lip and then the crimped up on the way to the chimney thimble.  thought was as to make the draft "flow" better. However the suggestion now: is the first pipe crimped into the stove and crimped on down do the stove on the way to the exit on the chimney thimble. Of course the  last piece of pipe into the chimney thimble needs to be crimped on both end. This is for any possible water and/or tarlike products into the stove and then burned. The draft "flow" won't really care which end of the flue pipes are crimped. Getting a flue crimp tool is handy to have too!


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## Neil-V1 (Oct 5, 2011)

Thanks for the help.  You guys have been great.  I am wondering thought how much heat comes out under the stove?  I am having to cut the legs on the stove because my fireplace opening is only 27" high.  The stove is sitting on a brick hearth and it is now lined with 2" of sand in the bottom and there is a 1/8" sheet of aluminium under the stove.  I am of the thinking that I should be just fine with this set up even with such short legs.  Should heat be a problem underneath?  Any opinions?  Thanks again.  Neil.


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## Dune (Oct 5, 2011)

Leave a few inches of ash in your tempwood too.

I empty my ash once a month at the most.


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## Neil-V1 (Oct 13, 2011)

OK......got my Tempwood 2 all hooked up yesterday.  I have the chimney lined all the way up and out to the top cap and I screwed all the connections together and there is no way in heck these things will come apart now.   However, yesterday when I checked my draft by holding my lighter inside the stove, the flame was sucked right out the back of the exhaust collar very strongly.  Today though, the draft was weak as heck and I bunched up a couple pieces of paper and lit them on fire, tossed them in the stove and opened the stove up all the way (damper and vents) and I actually had a bit of smoke back up into the house through the vents on me.  I looked at all my connections behind the stove and into the liner and no smoke was leaking out, but it worried the wife.  I thought it has something to do with the outside temps vs the inside house temps maybe causing it to back up a bit because the fire inside the stove was so little and weak?????        

I am hoping you guys can help me out with your experiences.  Would this be considered normal until I get a good fire going??  Also, I left about one and a half (maybe two) inches of the liner sticking out above the top plate at the end of my liner (at the top of the chimney).  Is that enough sticking out or maybe it should be flush?  I am the one that removed this liner three years or so ago but I can't remember how much was sticking out the top if any.  Any opinions (or facts) would be great.  Thanks, Neil V.


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## nosaudioil (Oct 13, 2011)

A few questions: What is the (your) chimney height? At the time what was the temp outside and inside? Any house powered bath vents or the clothes dryer operating at the time? Very windy outside?
You probably know all this stuff, but The Tempwood stove fire is built "upside down" To start: flue damper & disc stove air vents wide open, a small amount of dry splits right on the sand, add some crumbled newspaper on top of the wood, light the paper. Then add firewood as needed.
Watch the disc air vents as the fire gets going. The Tempwood stove can really get going with a dry fuel load if the vents are left open.


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## Neil-V1 (Oct 13, 2011)

Our chimney is 15 feet high.  THe temp outside was just a hair warmer than it was in the house too.  There may have also been a clothes dryer running in the next room as well.  No, it was not very windy outside.  I was thinking that maybe there was some kind of negative vaccum going on.  I left the doors to the house open for a little while and then it seemed to get a better draft going.  I really appreciate the help.  You are in Maine?  My wife and I are looking at a home in Stetson, ME.  Is that a nice area?  How do you like Maine?  Thanks again.  Neil V.


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## nosaudioil (Oct 13, 2011)

Yes I  live in mid-coast Maine. Not my whole life yet. 
Stetson, Maine is a nice little town in central Maine.
Why Stetson? Only kidding!


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## Dune (Oct 13, 2011)

Aside from other conditions which may affect the draft, a cold chimney will have NO draft. This is why, in spite of recomendations to the contrary from some board members, I start with a BUNCH of newspapers, crumbled loosely. 

This gives me a quick start and gets the draft moving.


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## Neil-V1 (Oct 13, 2011)

Thanks for the help again.


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