# Warped stove front?



## DemonGT (Oct 13, 2012)

i have found yet one more problem with my pelpro bay view.

i have noticed that my damper hasn't been changing the flame like it should, i suspected a old door gasket to be the problem. After putting a new gasket on the door last night i re installed the door. I checked the gasket and it looks tight on the left and right sides but it looked like it was not touching on the bottom/middle? Tonight when i came home and decided to light the stove and see if it burned any different and while kneeling down looking from the side i could see right through between the gasket and stove

I opened the door and looked "down" the stove body and to me it looks "warped" like it bow's inward?
what would cause it to warp? and most importantly..how the heck to i fix it!!?? i was thinking maybe remove the door gasket and add some kind of flat metal "shims" on the bottom so the gasket sticks out further?


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## krooser (Oct 13, 2012)

Big hammer...


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## jtakeman (Oct 13, 2012)

I have had the honor of fixing a few warped breckwells. As krooser said BFH. I also used a piece of angle iron and some clamps. I don't know about your stove but the breckwells were warped by over firing them(getting em too hot for too long).


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## kinsmanstoves (Oct 13, 2012)

Breckwells are known for this.  The easiest way is a straight edge, channel locks, pry bar and a block of wood.  Watch your knuckles and have at it.

Eric


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## DemonGT (Oct 13, 2012)

was looking closer at it today and noticed the gap is even worse on the top.

here is a pic its a bit blurry but you can see the "light" between the stove and gasket. could i just double up the door gasket on top/bottom?


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## imacman (Oct 13, 2012)

krooser said:


> Big hammer...


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## DemonGT (Oct 13, 2012)

also thought of cutting the gasket in the middle top and bottom and replacing with a bigger gasket size? my stove calls for a 5/8 gasket, what is the next size up?

could some of you elaborate alittle as to how exactly you got them straight again? i understand the BFH part lol
but how do you get it straight with out it being wavey?


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## jtakeman (Oct 13, 2012)

You can very the thickness of the gaskets(rope type). If you stretch it, it gets thinner. And if you push it together, it gets thicker. I would try to straighten the sheet metal first. If it doesn't then replace the whole gasket and bunch it up where you need it thicker. Better to have continuous gasket all the way around it. The more seems you have the more chance for leaks.


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## DemonGT (Oct 13, 2012)

did you just clamp the angle iron on to the stove and pound it out until it touched the iron?


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## jtakeman (Oct 13, 2012)

Clamp the angle iron ends with c-clamps and use a c-clamp to finesse the metal back in place. That got it close, Then I used the hammer to hit some of the high spots. Use a mandrel to back up the metal(leaves less hammer marks).


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## kinsmanstoves (Oct 15, 2012)

If you do not fix it what will happen is it will get worse.  you will lose efficiency and sooner or later it will trip the negative pressure switch.  I would contact the dealer even if it is out of warranty.

Eric


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## DemonGT (Oct 15, 2012)

kinsmanstoves said:


> If you do not fix it what will happen is it will get worse. you will lose efficiency and sooner or later it will trip the negative pressure switch. I would contact the dealer even if it is out of warranty.
> 
> Eric


 
by dealer do you mean the company that makes the stove or the one that installed it?


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## kinsmanstoves (Oct 16, 2012)

DemonGT said:


> by dealer do you mean the company that makes the stove or the one that installed it?


 
Dealer is who or where you bought it from.  The MFG is who made it.  Start with the Dealer first then go from there.

Eric


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## DemonGT (Oct 16, 2012)

the stove was in the house when we bought it, no idea who installed it?


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## imacman (Oct 16, 2012)

DemonGT said:


> the stove was in the house when we bought it, no idea who installed it?


Then find the nearest dealer who carries them, if possible.


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## DexterDay (Oct 16, 2012)

Is Pel-Pro sold through a "Dealer" in that area?? I know around here, they are only found at Menards (or Northern Tool, I think?) But Menards for sure.

No dealer around here anyways. So the buyer would have to go after the Manufacturer.. (Menards would likely do nothing?)


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## smoke show (Oct 16, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> Is Pel-Pro sold through a "Dealer" in that area?? I know around here, they are only found at Menards (or Northern Tool, I think?) But Menards for sure.
> 
> No dealer around here anyways. So the buyer would have to go after the Manufacturer.. (Menards would likely do nothing?)


 
Yep, positive they're box store only around here.

Copied from their site-

*Find A PelPro Dealer!*



PelPro stoves can be purchased through the dealers listed below. We recommend contacting your location of choice for product availability before traveling to the store.
Menards
W.E. Aubuchon
Home Depot Canada
Northern Tool & Equipment
Kennewick Ranch & Home
True Value
Having trouble finding a dealer in your area? Please call us toll Free at 1.877.427.3316 and we'll help get you in touch with the right people.


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## DemonGT (Oct 16, 2012)

correct, no dealers around here. just menards 

we have three places in my area that sell stoves

Enviro, Harmon, St Croix and Quadra fire are all covered. im going to just limp this stove through
a few more seasons and try to replace it with something nicer. iv already started looking at stoves
and it will be very hard to make a choice with so many good brands to pick from.  the dealer will
most likely be a factor.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 17, 2012)

That warp was likely caused by high temperatures, poor metal, or having been struck.

Stoves that are over fired will deform at the point that is weakest or hottest and do so in the direction that releases the built up stress in the metal.

As has been mentioned you can "hammer" out the bend.


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