# Sawbucks and gang cutting for small wood? Time saver or annoyance?



## scooby074 (Dec 3, 2012)

Just got a new 8cd load of wood to cut. At first glance it looks like there is a bunch of small stuff in there (6" and under)

So I got to thinking, if I was to make a sawbuck and pile the small, easily to handle stuff in it, logs 8" and under for example, then gang cut the pile at once, would that be any faster/easier than cutting it one piece at a time? You'd think it would be? OR is it a PITA dragging smaller logs over to the sawbuck as opposed to cutting on the pile?

What about design?

 The traditional X:






Or the European  U design


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## Thistle (Dec 3, 2012)

IMO it IS faster to use a sawbuck on smaller stuff from 4" to 9".Especially when you have at least 3-4 wheelbarrow's worth.I had a smaller one over 20 years ago made from non treated spruce or something.That eventually turned to compost.This past July I made a bigger stronger one from SS screws & treated 2 x 4 & 2 x 6 odds & ends from my junk pile.Should be around after I'M compost  Smaller stuff from 1 1/4" to 4" or so,that all gets cut to length on older 10" Delta cast-iron miter saw.With 1/8" 40 tooth carbide blade,its much faster than any chainsaw you'll find,because of much thinner kerf from the blade.

Its much harder as I've gotten older to be constantly bent over cutting all those shorter pieces,then bent over again picking all them up & making 10 times as many trips carrying them to trailer or pickup.

3 to 9ft poles,haul them in,load sawbuck,cut & repeat. Marks at 16" & 32" with a Sharpie makes things easier.

Plus sawbuck keeps the tip of the bar outta the dirt,kinda hard to avoid that when bucking small rounds in the field.


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## Backwoods Savage (Dec 3, 2012)

Most definitely a sawbuck saves a lot of time on the small stuff. I really like to use one when my wife is helping. She takes the real small limbs and stacks maybe 8-10 on the sawbuck at one time. That really helps me a lot and speeds things up. Cutting the small trees and/or limbs is what really robs the time from your cutting and that is one good reason to cutting logs that are say from 20" to 30" or even bigger. Cutting the big stuff makes the wood pile grow a lot faster but if you cut the small in jig and have a helper, it really does speed it up.


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## scooby074 (Dec 3, 2012)

I know what your saying about cutting the big stuff... I requested "big stuff" and got a mixed bag. Nothing over 20" as far as I can see. Nothing I would call "big". Lots of small, <4"  stuff. Some 10-14" .I'm not real happy.

I got a question, when buying a "Cord" of wood, does it make a practical difference how much actual wood you get when you have large vs. small logs?

Im thinking you might actually get more wood with smaller logs because it gets packed in tighter on the truck with less wasted space?  Does that make sense?


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## Backwoods Savage (Dec 3, 2012)

I would opt for the medium stuff. Like 12-30" logs. Nothing smaller, nothing bigger.


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## jatoxico (Dec 3, 2012)

I made this one up out of 5 8" 2x4. The short leg helps hold things when you have to work on the stubby ones. It folds up too.


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## AJS56 (Dec 3, 2012)

scooby074 said:


> I know what your saying about cutting the big stuff... I requested "big stuff" and got a mixed bag. Nothing over 20" as far as I can see. Nothing I would call "big". Lots of small, <4" stuff. Some 10-14" .I'm not real happy.
> 
> I got a question, when buying a "Cord" of wood, does it make a practical difference how much actual wood you get when you have large vs. small logs?
> 
> I'm thinking you might actually get more wood with smaller logs because it gets packed in tighter on the truck with less wasted space? Does that make sense?


 
Good question. I'm thinking the opposite.  Assuming the logs are fairly straight, it would seem to me that the larger they are the more wood you'd have.  Due to the fact that a 30 in round is solid wood with no air space, rather than a bundle of smaller rounds/logs.  I know that the larger diameter logs would have some bigger air gaps between them, but I still "think" (with no proof) that bigger = better.


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## bogydave (Dec 3, 2012)

scooby074 said:


> I got a question, when buying a "Cord" of wood, does it make a practical difference how much actual wood you get when you have large vs. small logs?
> Im thinking you might actually get more wood with smaller logs because it gets packed in tighter on the truck with less wasted space? Does that make sense?


 


AJS56 said:


> Good question. I'm thinking the opposite. Assuming the logs are fairly straight, it would seem to me that the larger they are the more wood you'd have. Due to the fact that a 30 in round is solid wood with no air space, rather than a bundle of smaller rounds/logs. I know that the larger diameter logs would have some bigger air gaps between them, but I still "think" (with no proof) that bigger = better.


 
I think bigger diameter logs is more split wood volume. Also bigger logs you get more BTU's (more dense heart wood less sap wood & bark)
My wood never stacks as tight split compared to rounds, so my stacked splits measure more wood than stacked rounds.
I think it's more fun to cut & split the bigger stuff, just wish it wasn't so heavy. LOL


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## velvetfoot (Dec 4, 2012)

My experience, so far, is that the bigger logs tend to have more rot in the middle.


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## AJS56 (Dec 4, 2012)

bogydave said:


> I think bigger diameter logs is more split wood volume. Also bigger logs you get more BTU's (more dense heart wood less sap wood & bark)
> My wood never stacks as tight split compared to rounds, so my stacked splits measure more wood than stacked rounds.
> I think it's more fun to cut & split the bigger stuff, just wish it wasn't so heavy. LOL


 Well said, Dave.


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## velvetfoot (Dec 4, 2012)

I watched those Oregon videos.  They seem to cut short pieces.


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## Tinder (Dec 4, 2012)

jatoxico said:


> It folds up too
> View attachment 83692


I sure wish I had seen that before I made mine. I just made one quickly last winter and used screws - kind of a PITA to carry around.

IMO it's faster to use a sawbuck for <6" stuff, but I also made mine a bit deeper than some of these pictured so I can stack up 4-8 logs/branches at a time and cut through them all together.


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## rdust (Dec 4, 2012)

I made a cutting box that I can load a bunch of pieces into and get two cuts out of it. I made it so I get cuts that are 17 inches. It's made out of scraps and not pretty but does the job I want.  I also use a sawbuck when I only have one or two longer pieces to shorten.


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## scooby074 (Dec 5, 2012)

velvetfoot said:


> I watched those Oregon videos. They seem to cut short pieces.


 
Yes they do, Remember its a European model, so they do the European method that many do. They cut (and split)  their logs in 1m lengths for storage/drying either in NA style stacks or round bundles, then cut them to stove length once dry. They even have dedicated machines that will automatically cut the 1m long  dry splits to stove length

Its an interesting system and Ive more than once thought about trying it, but nobody in North America seems to know anything about it. All I know about the system is what ive gathered from youtube videos. Heres but a few if your interested

1metre splits.





Automatic cut to stove length




Gang cutting with a huge bar


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## scooby074 (Dec 5, 2012)

Based on the comments here Im going to build a sawbuck when I got a chance..

Question now is U or X style?

Any links to build threads or plans? I think I want a larger (wider) X so i can stack more sticks before I have to cut.


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## bubba3228 (Dec 5, 2012)

I have built this and it is very stable and a one man operation.


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## firewoodjunky (Dec 6, 2012)

bubba3228 said:


> I have built this and it is very stable and a one man operation.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
That is basically the same set up that I am using. Kind of a warped H-Frame. Mine is getting pretty haggard after three hard years of cutting but since it is basically composed of scrap 2x4's I think I got my money's worth out of it :0

You can process a pretty good amount of wood on these things. I usually load it up by grabbing a good sized limb every time I take the dog for a walk. It adds up quick!


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## golfandwoodnut (Dec 6, 2012)

Here it is, the H style can't be beat for small stuff and you never have to worry about nicking that sawbuck.


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## scooby074 (Dec 10, 2012)

So, whats the general consensus, U or X style? Any designs or build threads that are particularly good?

Im leaning towards X because it can be folded up for storage, but U looks like i could pile more stuff in there per cut?


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## bubba3228 (Dec 12, 2012)

scooby074 said:


> So, whats the general consensus, U or X style? Any designs or build threads that are particularly good?
> 
> Im leaning towards X because it can be folded up for storage, but U looks like i could pile more stuff in there per cut?


 
I have used both. U holds the wood better when cutting. X has a tendency for the rounds to roll up if not held in place with another person or a strap.


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## golfandwoodnut (Dec 12, 2012)

As listed at the top you can buy an H style that folds up very small. In my opinion there is no comparison the H is the way to go. The way I built mine you can cut straight down with no fear of hitting the sawbuck and it will hold alot more.


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## jdonna (Dec 12, 2012)

I borrowed a grapple bucket once and stacked a huge pile in front my garage and lined up the ends even and climbed the stack and went at it for a week straight.  Worked pretty slick. 

I built a cutting box that is near my spilt pile, works good to resize longer pieces or multiple branch wood pieces. 

I try my best to handle the firewood as few times as possible.  =)

Like all the different jigs you guys have made!


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## Jacktheknife (Dec 12, 2012)

No plan links?


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## maple1 (Dec 13, 2012)

For those who load their lengths on a trailer, haul it to the wood pile, then unload it & cut it up or load into a sawbuck & cut - I'd suggest incorporating some tall wood bunks into the bed of your trailer & just cutting/junking while the wood is on the trailer. Think of it as a sawbuck on wheels. Likely, the more 'bare skeleton' your trailer is, the better - would make for a cheaper trailer build too if you wanted to try to make something.

Load it long lengths, drive to where you pile, cut it, pile it.

One thing I'm always trying to think about is how to reduce wood handling - anything to help extend the useful life of my back.


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## scooby074 (Dec 13, 2012)

I built a 48"Lx18" Wx40"H "U" style today. Only cost like $12! I havent painted it yet (plan on using used oil) but tried loading it up. I think Im going to save a bunch of time. Only thing is I hope my 18" bar will cut all the way through... If not, I guess I'll upgrade to a 20" which is something I kinda want to do anyways.

Will post pics when I try it out.


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## scooby074 (Dec 18, 2012)

Why did I wait so long to build this? It really speeds things up and makes it a TON easier on the back vs chasing around small sticks. These pics were taken after it was full then cut, im well on my way to the second filling. Probably the best $12 ive ever spent. Still need to paint it. I also think Im going to need a much bigger bar if I want to cut it in one go. Currently Im using a 18" and its 18" between the uprights, but its well short of being able to cut the whole width. 20" might not even work.

Some pics.


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## Shane N (Dec 18, 2012)

You should either get a longer bar or make the sawbuck narrower. Otherwise you're risking kickback.


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## bubba3228 (Dec 18, 2012)

Add a 2x4 to the inside of the uprights on one side, your dimension will change to 16-1/2" deep. Mine is 17" deep and my 18" bar handles it fine.


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## scooby074 (Dec 19, 2012)

bubba3228 said:


> Add a 2x4 to the inside of the uprights on one side, your dimension will change to 16-1/2" deep. Mine is 17" deep and my 18" bar handles it fine.


Good Idea. I think Ill do that


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## jdonna (Dec 22, 2012)

I like it!  Waste none/want none.  I have no shame in piling in a bunch of branch wood in my stove, makes for a good hot fire on the first load of the am.


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## larry3228 (Dec 23, 2012)

My sawbuck is a lot like scooby074's.  I have a 20" bar so I made it 18" wide.  I have 5 pairs of upright 2x4s so I can handle logs up to about 6' long. If I can safely lift a 6' section of log, it goes in the sawbuck.  It is soo much faster than cutting 1 piece at a time.

I used nails on my first attempt, they came loose fairly quickly.  I put it back together using screws and plywood triangles for added strength.  It's still rock solid after almost 2 years.


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## maple1 (Dec 24, 2012)

For those that use ATVs & trailers - put your sawbuck in your trailer, drive your trailer to where your trees fall, load up the sawbuck with long lengths, drive the trailer to where you split/pile, cut to length on trailer, then split/pile.

Might have to remove your sideboards first.


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## OldLumberKid (Dec 24, 2012)

scooby074 said:


>




That video is teh sickness!
Gotta admit, though I prefer the look of the wooden sawbuck,
the collapsible Oregon design would suit my very tight space and storage needs to a "T" especially since I'm an occasional user.


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## jdonna (Dec 24, 2012)

I like the idea of aluminum, but when you have in experienced friends or relatives helping out, it can make for hell on your equipment. 

When I hurt my shoulder, I had my brother helping cut up slab wood that was banded.  Needless to say 3 chains were wrecked in the process. 

In my opinion wood with no way of screws or nails being hit with the saw is best. 

Now I am thinking, if there would be a way to take that design and add hinges so it could collapse and be mobile to take into the woods or where ever you were cutting!


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## scooby074 (Dec 24, 2012)

OldLumberKid said:


> That video is teh sickness!
> Gotta admit, though I prefer the look of the wooden sawbuck,
> the collapsible Oregon design would suit my very tight space and storage needs to a "T" especially since I'm an occasional user.


 
The fold-up-ability of that sawbuck is sweet for sure. I wonder if Oregon even offers it for sale in North America? If so , how much$$?


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## DanCorcoran (Dec 24, 2012)

This one folds...there's a handle on the far side for carrying.  It's treated wood with galvanized hardware.  It's heavy, but that helps with stability.  Note the off-center spacing of the uprights for cutting different lengths.


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## Machria (Dec 25, 2012)

jatoxico said:


> I made this one up out of 5 8" 2x4. The short leg helps hold things when you have to work on the stubby ones. It folds up too.
> 
> View attachment 83692


 
jatoxico,
Can you post the dimensions of that, I need one of those yesterday!  Why the long space between the one section....  where are you on LI, wanna build another one?


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## scooby074 (Dec 26, 2012)

Here''s another Oregon sawbuck video I just came across.


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## scooby074 (Dec 26, 2012)

And a poor mans firewood processor (I like this one!)


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## jatoxico (Dec 26, 2012)

Machria said:


> jatoxico,
> Can you post the dimensions of that, I need one of those yesterday! Why the long space between the one section.... where are you on LI, wanna build another one?


 
Hey Mach, now you gotta feed that new stove right?  Saw the install pics, very nice. I am on the north shore near West Meadow Beach.

The sawbuck I made was from 5 2"x4"x8'. No sense wasting any wood so the horizontal braces (2) were cut in 1/2. For the x's I marked the half way point then went an additional 3" to one side which makes one leg 6" longer than the other for easier loading. The bolt holes and the upper horizontal brace determine how much it opens and therefore height. Make it comfortable for your height.

Was mostly trial and error to get the height so I tacked it together before final assembly. Easy project but PM if you need anything else glad to help.

*Edit: *Was outside splitting up more oak from Sandy so I took a few actual measurements, The legs on the x's are 51" and 45" respectively. The bolt holes are 32" up from the bottom of the legs and I set the height of the cradle at 32" then placed the upper cross brace which acts as a stop when open.


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## HDRock (Dec 26, 2012)

Here is one, and other ideas here BUILDING A FEXIBLE FOLD UP SAWBUCK



Interesting ones


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## LLigetfa (Dec 26, 2012)

scooby074 said:


> And a poor mans firewood processor (I like this one!)



Ja, I like that one too except I wonder why they put the pivot point so high?  Also, they could have mounted the stop block up on the pivot point and not have it in the path of the B&C. I hope it at least has a positive stop to keep the chain from hitting it.

As for some of the other sawbucks, the tall ones you need to lift the wood too high to clear.  High capacity is one thing but ease of loading IMHO is paramount.

The metal ones make me cringe... you should see all the saw marks on my all wood sawbuck.  I even took care to deeply countersink the screw heads so as not to hit them with the chain.


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## OldLumberKid (Dec 26, 2012)

LLigetfa said:


> The metal ones make me cringe... you should see all the saw marks on my all wood sawbuck. I even took care to deeply countersink the screw heads so as not to hit them with the chain.


 
Hot dog. Never thought of that, I'm usually obsessively careful not to touch another piece of wood even, to avoid kickback.
Metal contact could get ugly in a hurry.


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## Machria (Dec 27, 2012)

jatoxico said:


> Hey Mach, now you gotta feed that new stove right?  Saw the install pics, very nice. I am on the north shore near West Meadow Beach.
> 
> The sawbuck I made was from 5 2"x4"x8'. No sense wasting any wood so the horizontal braces (2) were cut in 1/2. For the x's I marked the half way point then went an additional 3" to one side which makes one leg 6" longer than the other for easier loading. The bolt holes and the upper horizontal brace determine how much it opens and therefore height. Make it comfortable for your height.
> 
> ...



Perfect, thanks.   I spent the day cutting down a giant fallen (Sandy) Locust today.  Gotta a LOT of wood from it.


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## bboulier (Dec 27, 2012)

Anybody have experience with Northern Tools firewood sawhorse? It looks interesting, but there are not a lot of details in the product description.  I can get one for a gift if I want one.  Here's the link:  http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...kw={keyword}&gclid=CNm635rSu7QCFUWo4AodwTUARg


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## Machria (Dec 27, 2012)

bboulier said:


> Anybody have experience with Northern Tools firewood sawhorse? It looks interesting, but there are not a lot of details in the product description.  I can get one for a gift if I want one.  Here's the link:  http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...kw={keyword}&gclid=CNm635rSu7QCFUWo4AodwTUARg



That metal scares the hell out of me!   I just bought four 2x4's, and one 5/4 x 6" x 8' and 3 galvanized bolts.   Will take 1/2 hour to build the one jataxico pictured above which looks perfect.


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## OldLumberKid (Dec 29, 2012)

HDRock said:


> Here is one, and other ideas here BUILDING A FEXIBLE FOLD UP SAWBUCK




The bloke in the first vid, he's kinda inneressin'. At first I thought he was Glen Sather, lol, Is it you HDRock?

The hobo stove vid is classic.


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## Machria (Jan 1, 2013)

Followed Jax plans for the most part, took about 1 hour to build, four 2x4's and one 1x6....   works awsome, saved my back.  Wish I had built this years ago.


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## HDRock (Jan 2, 2013)

I like it , did U use screws or nails ??


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## Snotrocket (Jan 2, 2013)

I have a sawbuck but don't use it for a whole lot of wood. The occasional bunch of branches.

The best way to cut is wait until you have a snow base and you don't have to worry about grounding out your chain. Just buck it all up where it falls.


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## Machria (Jan 2, 2013)

HDRock said:


> I like it , did U use screws or nails ??



Bolts for the 3 cross members with large washers so it folds easily, and countersunk them so they don't stick out at all.  The rest is screwed with regular deck type outdoor screws.


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## HDRock (Jan 2, 2013)

I was thinkin deck screws would be best , plus I have some


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## firefighterjake (Jan 3, 2013)

Snotrocket said:


> I have a sawbuck but don't use it for a whole lot of wood. The occasional bunch of branches.
> 
> The best way to cut is wait until you have a snow base and you don't have to worry about grounding out your chain. Just buck it all up where it falls.


 
. . . unless you land your wood right on the edge of a field where farmers have been tossing rocks to the side for years . . . and you happen to be Firefighterjake . . . in which case you will be able to totally frig up your chain.


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## Machria (Jan 3, 2013)

LOL!     Jake, we seem to share the same "luck"!


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## firefighterjake (Jan 3, 2013)

Machria said:


> LOL! Jake, we seem to share the same "luck"!


 
Yup . . . bad luck.


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## lazeedan (Jan 5, 2013)

I really like my saw buck. I doubled up the center x to hold the cut branches. That way I don't have to pick the cut branches off the ground again.


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## HDRock (Jan 5, 2013)

lazeedan said:


> I really like my saw buck. I doubled up the center x to hold the cut branches. That way I don't have to pick the cut branches off the ground again.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Thumbs up ! looks like very good support for the wood , no falling on your toes


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## OldLumberKid (Jan 5, 2013)

lazeedan said:


> I really like my saw buck. I doubled up the center x to hold the cut branches. That way I don't have to pick the cut branches off the ground again.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


nice -- do you cut between a doubled up X


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## lazeedan (Jan 6, 2013)

Yes I cut between the doubled up x.


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