# Ignition Problem - NG Fireplace



## dsimons (Nov 23, 2008)

I have a Superior Fireplace and it is not igniting.  When I turn on the wall switch I hear a loud click, symbolizing I assume , the main gas switch firing the pilot flame gas but there is no clicking from the igniter.  At one point the igniter would click loud once then be followed by three of four more subdued clicks.  Now I don't even get a single click.  Could this be the igniter or the switch assembly it is attached to underneath?  Is there a way to test the igniter?

TIA


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## dsimons (Nov 23, 2008)

Okay.. so could this be the problem???? See attached pictures...

What would cause the resister to fry like this?  The actuall insulation of the resister is powder.


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## tubbster (Nov 23, 2008)

That board is done.
Triple check all the wiring, make sure none are shorted to ground. It may have been a fault in the board also, like a transistor shorting out internally.

But before you hook up a new one, verify the wiring/continuity/shorts to other wires/ground.
If you do not know how to do that - you need a pro.

(I used to fix high power audio amps - so my suggestions may mean nothing to you!)


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## dsimons (Nov 24, 2008)

I did check the wires and all looks good.  Once thought is that I just replaced the gas valve which may have been shorted internally.  Not sure if I can open it to inspect it.  I took apart the transformer to look for scortch marks.  Is it normal for the transformer to make a quiet hum noise?


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## tubbster (Nov 24, 2008)

Not abnormal for a transformer to make noise. 
I would wager that the transformer is fine. 

You will need at the very least a new control board. If you knew what the resistance was on the control valve, you could check that with an ohmmeter.

Do not split the valve, I would think it would be junk at that point.


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## tubbster (Nov 24, 2008)

Also, did you replace the valve with the EXACT same part? Wire it correctly?


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## dsimons (Nov 24, 2008)

yeah... exact valve and wired correct.  I took pictures prior to disconnecting the valve from the wire harness so I know it is correct.  Double and tripple checked the wiring.  I have ordered another board already today and I should get it in a couple of days.  I was just concerned that 200 bucks for a board gets kinda expensive if there is a problem with wiring elsewhere.


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## dsimons (Nov 24, 2008)

also, could the igniter short?  I can figure how it would go to ground through faulty shielding.  I checked and it all visually looks pretty new and in good shape.  Is there a test for this?


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## R&D Guy (Nov 24, 2008)

dsimons said:
			
		

> Okay.. so could this be the problem???? See attached pictures...
> 
> What would cause the resister to fry like this? The actuall insulation of the resister is powder.



Wow never seen one with carbon deposits. I'm guessing you either had a power surge or more likely the current for the igniter leaked inside the control board. Igniters use about 1000 volts for most systems, and EMI (electro-magnetic interference) has been an issue at one time or another on a few of the IPI valve systems I've worked with. If it's all inside the board then IMO and experience its a design flaw with the board. A short in the igniter wire is really irrelevant since the voltage shorts out at the pilot causing the spark UNLESS the ignitor wire is shorting out on one of the other leads from the control board. An easy way to prevent this is to add a inch or more of space between the igniter wire and the rest of the control board leads, but again, the board should be designed with components that can handle this.

I haven't worked with Robert-Shaw since 2000, but yikes $200 just for the board? Everyone must be doubling their money leading up to your sale.


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