# Follow Up: is this much wood worth buying a splitter for?



## davidmsem (Dec 21, 2014)

Well I left off saying that I was going to purchase an electric 5 ton splitter, Harbor Freight, split what I could of the 4 or 5 cords worth of wood I have, then rent a splitter for the big stuff for a day. Total cost would be $325 and I'd have the electric splitter for the future.

So yesterday I purchased the 5 ton and it cut up to 14" no problem. Then I tried some larger and the shelf broke off. I looked at the stack of uncut and said this isn't going to work, and returned the electric 5 ton.

Today I heard chain saws going next door. I figured I would see what was up. It was my neighbor, an ex-pizzaman, having trees cut to fire his outdoor pizza oven. So we shared our angst about rent or buy. I offered, "would you want to split one?" He said if you can store it for us I'm in

I went to Tractor Supply and purchased the 22 ton County Line! So for $500, only $175 more than I was going to spend, I'll have an easier time splitting that mountain AND have the 22 ton for many years to come, AND not have to rush through a fun job.

I'm not sure I could have fallen into a better outcome.


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## matt1@ (Dec 21, 2014)

That's sweet. I've had my eye on that splitter in the near future, did you use it yet and if so how do you like it so far? The huskee 22 ton got good reviews. I believe this is the same splitter with Kohler motor and different name.


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## EatenByLimestone (Dec 21, 2014)

That's awesome!


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## Hogwildz (Dec 21, 2014)

Good decision. If your planning to do serious processing and burning, a splitter is a great decision.
Enjoy.


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## davidmsem (Dec 21, 2014)

matt1@ said:


> That's sweet. I've had my eye on that splitter in the near future, did you use it yet and if so how do you like it so far? The huskee 22 ton got good reviews. I believe this is the same splitter with Kohler motor and different name.



I did not use it, drove home in the dark and parked it in the garage. I'm off of work the next two weeks so I will let you know. The tractor Supply guy was great.....he was trying to start one and encouraged me to start another. One pull, she started, she's mine.

Price was $950. I've been having fun this fall, built the woodshed, got into burning for heat from this website and purchased a Regency I3100. Sometimes life has periods when things go well.


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## davidmsem (Dec 21, 2014)

Hogwildz said:


> Good decision. If your planning to do serious processing and burning, a splitter is a great decision.
> Enjoy.


Thanks Hogswildz! I always enjoy your terse information filled comments! 

I don't think I'll get into chainsawing, but if providers deliver unsplit wood I will definitely do my own splitting.


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## Hogwildz (Dec 21, 2014)

Make sure they put oil in it... better to be safe than sorry.


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## 1kzwoman (Dec 21, 2014)

davidmsem said:


> I did not use it, drove home in the dark and parked it in the garage. I'm off of work the next two weeks so I will let you know. The tractor Supply guy was great.....he was trying to start one and encouraged me to start another. One pull, she started, she's mine.
> 
> Price was $950. I've been having fun this fall, built the woodshed, got into burning for heat from this website and purchased a Regency I3100. Sometimes life has periods when things go well.


Go through it check all bolts, fitting and such before you put it to work is my suggestion.


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## davidmsem (Dec 21, 2014)

Hogwildz said:


> Make sure they put oil in it... better to be safe than sorry.


I will be doing that tomorrow. No work and new toys!


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## Hogwildz (Dec 21, 2014)

You should be able to find someone willing to deliver rounds.
I predict you will have a chainsaw in the future.


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## davidmsem (Dec 21, 2014)

1kzwoman said:


> Go through it check all bolts, fitting and such before you put it to work is my suggestion.


I've got it parked right next to my tool chest in the garage. What a great idea....Will do! Thank you!


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## davidmsem (Dec 21, 2014)

Hogwildz said:


> You should be able to find someone willing to deliver rounds.
> I predict you will have a chainsaw in the future.


 LMAO........maybe next fall.....in that case would I have logs delivered?


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## Hogwildz (Dec 21, 2014)

Yes, if you do get a chainsaw, you're ready for pole length logs.
Less expensive, but more exercise.


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## Kevin Dolan (Dec 21, 2014)

davidmsem said:


> Well I left off saying that I was going to purchase an electric 5 ton splitter, Harbor Freight, split what I could of the 4 or 5 cords worth of wood I have, then rent a splitter for the big stuff for a day. Total cost would be $325 and I'd have the electric splitter for the future.
> 
> So yesterday I purchased the 5 ton and it cut up to 14" no problem. Then I tried some larger and the shelf broke off. I looked at the stack of uncut and said this isn't going to work, and returned the electric 5 ton.
> 
> ...


Dave,
A log splitter is one of the best investments you can make, especially with a good neighbor . We share all repairs and maintenance which is minimal.piece of advice-don't lend. We made that a rule and it has been a little tough but we have a great splitter that still works and doesn't go wandering.


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## 1kzwoman (Dec 21, 2014)

davidmsem said:


> I've got it parked right next to my tool chest in the garage. What a great idea....Will do! Thank you!





davidmsem said:


> LMAO........maybe next fall.....in that case would I have logs delivered?



With a neighbor who split cost of spliter maybe you will only have half a saw!


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## Kevin Dolan (Dec 21, 2014)

1kzwoman said:


> With a neighbor who split cost of spliter maybe you will only have half a saw!


Liz what half of the saw do you want ???lol


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## davidmsem (Dec 21, 2014)

1kzwoman said:


> With a neighbor who split cost of spliter maybe you will only have half a saw!


Lol......I stand corrected, I will have half a saw next year!


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## Poindexter (Dec 22, 2014)

Nice piece of serendipity for you there.  I don't think I would have passed up that opportunity either.


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## Charles1981 (Dec 22, 2014)

It can be worth it for sure. I would have more wood split by now If I had one.

I purchased 11 cords last year. Bucked half of it. Rented a splitter from home depot for 90$ and got through about 5 cords in 1 day. I have been bucking the rest and splitting by hand. In the past 2-3 months I have gotten through half of the leftover half. I have also scrounged another 2-3 cords and split half of that by hand. If I can steadily split by hand little here and little there. There shouldn't really be a need for renting a splitter at all again as I have 6 cords split and stacked right now (thats 2 years about of burning) and have another 4-5 cords to split and stack by hand. A little bit each week or every few weeks...ect. 

But would I rather have an gas powered splitter? for sure.


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## prezes13 (Dec 22, 2014)

I am glad you went that route and it's working for you.  I did that with my buddy from work and it's working great for us.


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## Jags (Dec 22, 2014)

For that new splitter - remember to change oil very early in the game.  Like after a couple of hours of run time.  It might very well be the best thing you can do for longevity.


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## davidmsem (Dec 22, 2014)

Jags said:


> For that new splitter - remember to change oil very early in the game.  Like after a couple of hours of run time.  It might very well be the best thing you can do for longevity.


 Thanks. I'm think of switching to synthetic oil after the 25 hour break in.


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## Jags (Dec 22, 2014)

davidmsem said:


> Thanks. I'm think of switching to synthetic oil after the 25 hour break in.



May I suggest an oil change even prior to 25 hours.  For one quart of oil and a few minutes of time changing the oil very early (say after a couple of hours of run time) will flush the block of any casting/finishing particulate matter that may not have gotten flushed out at the factory.  These little engines don't have a filter so anything in the oil just gets circulated.


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## davidmsem (Dec 22, 2014)

Kevin Dolan said:


> Dave,
> A log splitter is one of the best investments you can make, especially with a good neighbor . We share all repairs and maintenance which is minimal.piece of advice-don't lend. We made that a rule and it has been a little tough but we have a great splitter that still works and doesn't go wandering.


Based on your reply I reached out to my neighbor this morning and made the suggestion of no loan. He agreed and says it works for him. I appreciate you putting that thought in my mind. It was there but I needed to articulate it to him. thank you !


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## davidmsem (Dec 22, 2014)

Jags said:


> May I suggest an oil change even prior to 25 hours.  For one quart of oil and a few minutes of time changing the oil very early (say after a couple of hours of run time) will flush the block of any casting/finishing particulate matter that may not have gotten flushed out at the factory.  These little engines don't have a filter so anything in the oil just gets circulated.


 Perfect. I was thinking the same thing but wondering if they had some special lightweight oil in there for the first 25 and one of the rings to seat before proceeding. I'm comfortable with going after a few hours if people think it's a good idea.


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## Jags (Dec 22, 2014)

I am not aware of any "special" oil for break in on these little motors.  Most people won't put 25 hours on a splitter per year.  At a "normal" rate of 1 cord per hour that is 25 cords - or even at a slow pace of half a cord per hour, its still 12.5 cords.  Far more than most people will produce in a year.


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## lml999 (Dec 22, 2014)

davidmsem said:


> I did not use it, drove home in the dark and parked it in the garage. I'm off of work the next two weeks so I will let you know.



Without pictures it never happened!


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## matt1@ (Dec 22, 2014)

Just now reading this I thought I might mention especially since you have a new splitter I would agree with changing the oil sooner than 25 hours. Keep in mind that there is a specially formulated oil for air cooled engines such as mowers, tractors, some motorcycles and yes, splitters. I see people all the time use conventional automotive grade oil in their mowers and other small air cooled engines. I've been using synthetic motorcycle grade oils designed for air cooled engines for years because they have no radiator or coolant they tend to run much hotter than say a car with water cooled system for example. Knock on wood I've not had any engine issues in anything for over ten years. This includes my riding mower, push mower, generator, and snow blower. They are all older and run like brand new. Not trying to sound like a jack hole, just giving some food for thought when changing oil that's all


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## Jags (Dec 22, 2014)

matt1@ said:


> Keep in mind that there is a specially formulated oil for air cooled engines such as mowers, tractors, some motorcycles and yes, splitters.



I don't find any special oil requirements other than what is below.  SG (SF) is a dirt common rating.

Virtually all small kohler engines require SF (Old) or SG rated oils with a viscosity appropriate for the temps it is operated in.

SG – 1989 Gasoline Engine Warranty Maintenance Service –
Service typical of gasoline engines in cars, vans and light trucks, beginning
with the 1989 model year operating under manufacturers’ recommended maintenance procedures. Provides improved control of engine deposits, oil oxidation, sludging and engine wear relative to previous categories. Rust and bearing corrosion limits are the same as SF oils. May be used where SF, SE, SF/CC or SE/CC is recommended. All of LE’s MONOLEC Engine Oils exceed this classification.
(Exert stripped from here: http://www.motorexbih.com/API-SAE Engine Oil Service.pdf)

There really isn't anything special about the oil that I can find.  Open ears - willing to learn.

Just to check myself I reviewed service manuals for three different familys of Kohler engines and they all had pretty much the same language for the oil:

Other high-quality detergent oils (including synthetic)
of API (American Petroleum Institute) service class SJ
or higher are acceptable. Select viscosity based on
air temperature at time of operation as shown in table
below.

(stripped from manual here: http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/14_690_01_EN.pdf)


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## Montanalocal (Dec 22, 2014)

I have a Ramsplitter HV16 16 ton electric splitter, and I absolutely love it.  Plug it in, flip the switch and you are in business.  Tackles most everything in Ponderosa pine. It also goes vertical for the really big rounds.


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## davidmsem (Dec 22, 2014)

1kzwoman said:


> Go through it check all bolts, fitting and such before you put it to work is my suggestion.


....found two loose screws.....hydraulic fluid was low......thanks!


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## davidmsem (Dec 22, 2014)

lml999 said:


> Without pictures it never happened!


￼
	

		
			
		

		
	




	

		
			
		

		
	
 ...let me know if you want a picture of the pizza oven......


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## BrotherBart (Dec 22, 2014)

Congrats. That sucker looks nice.


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## 1kzwoman (Dec 22, 2014)

It may burp hydraulic fluid once you get it warm..like a auto tranny if overfilled.
FYI  nice splitter


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## WiscWoody (Dec 25, 2014)

Poindexter said:


> Nice piece of serendipity for you there.  I don't think I would have passed up that opportunity either.


A serious wood burning neighbor of mine passed on my idea of going in on a splitter so now he just borrows mine for a day every summer. He's the only one I'd borrow it to. Many burn wood up here and when they hear that you have a new splitter they seem to come out of the wood work...


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## WiscWoody (Dec 25, 2014)

Jags said:


> I don't find any special oil requirements other than what is below.  SG (SF) is a dirt common rating.
> 
> Virtually all small kohler engines require SF (Old) or SG rated oils with a viscosity appropriate for the temps it is operated in.
> 
> ...


The only special oil I buy is for my ATV since it has a wet clutch hydro matic (Hondamatic) transmission and it calls for something that's made for the clutch and tranny setup. The ATV takes nearly 6 quarts of oil for a 500CC, 2.3 quarts more than my Toyota car does! Otherwise I use normal engine oil in all of my air cooled engines and they run forever it seems. I broke in my splitter with Dino oil but after two changes I now use synthetic in it.


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## davidmsem (Dec 28, 2014)

WiscWoody said:


> A serious wood burning neighbor of mine passed on my idea of going in on a splitter so now he just borrows mine for a day every summer. He's the only one I'd borrow it to. Many burn wood up here and when they here that you have a new splitter they seem to come out of the wood work...


They are coming out of the wood work.....


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## davidmsem (Dec 28, 2014)

WiscWoody said:


> The only special oil I buy is for my ATV since it has a wet clutch hydro matic (Hondamatic) transmission and it calls for something that's made for the clutch and tranny setup. The ATV takes nearly 6 quarts of oil for a 500CC, 2.3 quarts more than my Toyota car does! Otherwise I use normal engine oil in all of my air cooled engines and they run forever it seems. I broke in my splitter with Dino oil but after two changes I now use synthetic in it.


Thanks......I'm using synthetic ......it only takes 0.6 quarts. I'm really enjoying this splitter!


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## WiscWoody (Dec 29, 2014)

davidmsem said:


> Thanks......I'm using synthetic ......it only takes 0.6 quarts. I'm really enjoying this splitter!


Did you break the engine in with conventional oil? They say that synthetic oil should be used only after running conventional oil for the first oil fill or two.  Are you using it this winter? I store my saws and the splitter for the winter and kick back to enjoy the heat from my labors.


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## davidmsem (Dec 29, 2014)

WiscWoody said:


> Did you break the engine in with conventional oil? They say that synthetic oil should be used only after running conventional oil for the first oil fill or two.  Are you using it this winter? I store my saws and the splitter for the winter and kick back to enjoy the heat from my labors.


The break-in was done with conventional oil. Yes I'm using it this winter to prepare for next winter, as I'm splitting about 4 cords of mostly Ash. I did not expect to be a burner, found plans for my wood shed here and figured a fireplace insert would be a good idea. Insert installed in December and loving the warmth.


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## Jags (Dec 29, 2014)

WiscWoody said:


> Did you break the engine in with conventional oil? They say that synthetic oil should be used only after running conventional oil for the first oil fill or two.



I too was in this camp for thought.  That said - I have been told that I was in error.  Syn oil is just fine for small engine break in runs.  It was from a very reputable source and further investigation on the web seems to support this.


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## 1kzwoman (Dec 29, 2014)

So tell me was it enough to warrant spliter purchase. Have you proved it by hand splitting an hour??


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## lindnova (Dec 29, 2014)

davidmsem said:


> Perfect. I was thinking the same thing but wondering if they had some special lightweight oil in there for the first 25 and one of the rings to seat before proceeding. I'm comfortable with going after a few hours if people think it's a good idea.


They come with whatever oil speeco or tractor supply put in it.  Probably 10W30, but nothing special.

I changed mine out to 5w40 CJ (diesel) rated oil after 2 hours to get the sand & metal chunks out, and then again at around 15 or 20 hr - no meter.  No smoke or burning, runs great and starts ok in cold (mostly in garage at 50°).  Yearly changes will be more than enough from here on.  The diesel rated oil has more antiwear additives. If I was starting outside in the cold & would use a synthetic 5w30 or 0w30.

Oils labeled for air cooled engines are fine, but I have never used them and would not pay extra for them.  These briggs are pretty simple and not particular about oil.


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## WiscWoody (Dec 29, 2014)

Jags said:


> I too was in this camp for thought.  That said - I have been told that I was in error.  Syn oil is just fine for small engine break in runs.  It was from a very reputable source and further investigation on the web seems to support this.


You are correct as from the six or so sites I looked at said it would be fine to break in a engine with synthetic oil and that some cars come with synthetic oil from the factory. But a Popular Mechanics writer and Briggs and Stratton said that they would use conventional oil for breaking in a engine and then synthetic but they also said that the newer engine technology doesn't require that method any longer. The PM writer said it would simply be cheaper considering that the first  two low miles oil changes for a car would be cheaper using conventional oil. I learn something new everyday.


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## KenLockett (Dec 29, 2014)

Jags said:


> For that new splitter - remember to change oil very early in the game.  Like after a couple of hours of run time.  It might very well be the best thing you can do for longevity.


Engine oil or splitter hydraulic oil?


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## KenLockett (Dec 29, 2014)

Do you guys think using synthetic 5w30 in the briggs and stratton that came on the huskee 22 ton would make winter starting easier?


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## WiscWoody (Dec 29, 2014)

This page has a lot of oil info and opinions from users. There's also a site on the web ran by a guy that tears down oil filters and rates them for all kinds of things like filtering, strength and flow. You can find it with a simple search.


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com


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## Jags (Dec 29, 2014)

KenLockett said:


> Engine oil or splitter hydraulic oil?



Engine oil.  Only one reason to change hydro oil - contamination.


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## psebowhunter (Dec 29, 2014)

I'm sure you're already past this point as you said the break in was done, but for what its worth i bought my huskee 22 last fall and the manual said to change the oil after the first 5 hours.


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## FishKiller (Dec 29, 2014)

no one has mentioned the best part about having a good splitter.... the wife can run one!. I run the saw and log up the bucked pieces and she runs the splitter (besides really big rounds). after a few hours we have a very nice pile of splits.  plus between the saw and the splitter i can hardly hear her yelling


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## davidmsem (Dec 29, 2014)

1kzwoman said:


> So tell me was it enough to warrant spliter purchase. Have you proved it by hand splitting an hour??



Hand splitting is not in the cards for me. So far I've got almost 3 cords out of the pile...will probably end up with 4 to 5 cords. I would have needed a four day rental working alone....that would be $300, so for $500 I own a half share.

Well worth it for me, very nice unit. 

My swinging days are reserved for the golf course.


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## davidmsem (Dec 29, 2014)

psebowhunter said:


> I'm sure you're already past this point as you said the break in was done, but for what its worth i bought my huskee 22 last fall and the manual said to change the oil after the first 5 hours.



I split the difference on the opinions...I ran the engine for about 3 hours with no load and the original oil. Then switched to synthetic, and will change that after another 10 hours of running.


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## davidmsem (Dec 29, 2014)

FishKiller said:


> no one has mentioned the best part about having a good splitter.... the wife can run one!. I run the saw and log up the bucked pieces and she runs the splitter (besides really big rounds). after a few hours we have a very nice pile of splits.  plus between the saw and the splitter i can hardly hear her yelling



Will FishKiller....I think the splitting is all in my camp....she almost divorced me over going to an insert, but as the wise men here promised, once she felt the heat, she is really enjoying it. 

It takes a smart man to be this stupid.


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## lindnova (Dec 29, 2014)

davidmsem said:


> I split the difference on the opinions...I ran the engine for about 3 hours with no load and the original oil. Then switched to synthetic, and will change that after another 10 hours of running.


You're good to go with that plan.  I wouldn't baby any more it after it is warmed up as the rings can use some varying rpms and loads to help seat.  Happy splitting!


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## 1kzwoman (Dec 30, 2014)

davidmsem said:


> Hand splitting is not in the cards for me. So far I've got almost 3 cords out of the pile...will probably end up with 4 to 5 cords. I would have needed a four day rental working alone....that would be $300, so for $500 I own a half share.
> 
> Well worth it for me, very nice unit.
> 
> My swinging days are reserved for the golf course.



Yes I bought my splitter after seeing $90 a day rental fees too. I Don't like the risk of paying for someone else's abuse of a rental.  I also like the option of splitting when I have the time.


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## davidmsem (Dec 31, 2014)

1kzwoman said:


> Yes I bought my splitter after seeing $90 a day rental fees too. I Don't like the risk of paying for someone else's abuse of a rental.  I also like the option of splitting when I have the time.


It was suggested here that my friend and I adopt a no loan policy. my neighbor thought that was a good idea as well. I'm glad we did, we've both been asked several times.

Since building the shed in October, and then deciding to have an insert put in, then hiring someone to cut 11 trees down that were mostly ash to get some firewood for next year and clean up the ash borer ridden trees, and now splitting and stacking it, it has been a bit of an exhausting go of it.

I hope once I "catch up" the pace going forward will be a bit more manageable and enjoyable.


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## Jearley35purdue (Dec 31, 2014)

davidmsem said:


> I did not use it, drove home in the dark and parked it in the garage. I'm off of work the next two weeks so I will let you know. The tractor Supply guy was great.....he was trying to start one and encouraged me to start another. One pull, she started, she's mine.
> 
> Price was $950. I've been having fun this fall, built the woodshed, got into burning for heat from this website and purchased a Regency I3100. Sometimes life has periods when things go well.


One quick word of advice.  As they say the stores state these units are "Ready to Split" with oil and hydraulic fluid in them, please ensure to run the unit for a minute or two and cycle the actuator a few times then re-check the fluid level.  I've found more than once that they do fill them with both oil and hydraulic fluid to the level defined after they have been cycled.  The hydraulic system (ie.hoses, pumps, etc) will hold a descent amount of fluid. Meaning that after the first run if you check the hydraulic fluid it will be low which is not good on the pump.  My only point is, based on experience, the big box stores do indeed assemble and fill the units.  But they do not necessary cycle them as required per the manuals to prime the hydraulic system, which in turn could result in you having a low level and need to top it off to avoid any possible issues.   This has happened to me twice now with 27 ton splitters I've purchased from the big box stores.  Just want you to not have any issues!


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## davidmsem (Dec 31, 2014)

Jearley35purdue said:


> One quick word of advice.  As they say the stores state these units are "Ready to Split" with oil and hydraulic fluid in them, please ensure to run the unit for a minute or two and cycle the actuator a few times then re-check the fluid level.  I've found more than once that they do fill them with both oil and hydraulic fluid to the level defined after they have been cycled.  The hydraulic system (ie.hoses, pumps, etc) will hold a descent amount of fluid. Meaning that after the first run if you check the hydraulic fluid it will be low which is not good on the pump.  My only point is, based on experience, the big box stores do indeed assemble and fill the units.  But they do not necessary cycle them as required per the manuals to prime the hydraulic system, which in turn could result in you having a low level and need to top it off to avoid any possible issues.   This has happened to me twice now with 27 ton splitters I've purchased from the big box stores.  Just want you to not have any issues!


Thank you very much Jearley......I did do that, and the hydraulic fluid was at the absolute minimum level so I topped her off! Also found some loose nuts and bolts.......I appreciate all the help.....


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## Kenster (Jan 4, 2015)

I have two near-neighbor/friends.  We share lots of equipment.  The other two guys have trailers that I can borrow.  One of them has a Ford 8N tractor, just like mine. Between the two of us we have all the implements we need.  Why own everything when we can share?   One of them does all sorts of repairs for me- welding, home wiring,etc.   He gets to use my splitter anytime he wants.    The other neighbor cuts down trees and bucks it all up himself.  We use my splitter to split it all.  I get half of the wood or half of the money if he sell it. 

I figure I'm getting the better end of the deal.  Plus, I've got two great friends.


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## davidmsem (Jan 5, 2015)

Kenster said:


> I have two near-neighbor/friends.  We share lots of equipment.  The other two guys have trailers that I can borrow.  One of them has a Ford 8N tractor, just like mine. Between the two of us we have all the implements we need.  Why own everything when we can share?   One of them does all sorts of repairs for me- welding, home wiring,etc.   He gets to use my splitter anytime he wants.    The other neighbor cuts down trees and bucks it all up himself.  We use my splitter to split it all.  I get half of the wood or half of the money if he sell it.
> 
> I figure I'm getting the better end of the deal.  Plus, I've got two great friends.


Sounds a great arrangement   Honeymoon year for me and I'm enjoying the warmth! Wood heat is penetrating! Love it!


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## davidmsem (Jan 17, 2015)

Thank goodness I split the purchase of the splitter with my neighbor! I have 5 cords split and stacked and at least one more to stack from the trees I had taken down. I was charged $1300 to have the trees taken down and cut into rounds. Rental would have been for at least 5 days, approximately 400, about my share in the splitter.


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## Pennsyltucky Chris (Jan 18, 2015)

The County Line 22 is the same as the Huskee, if I'm not mistaken, You got it for $500? I may have to go get one if that's the case. That's like half price!


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## Kenster (Jan 18, 2015)

I think he meant his HALF, shared with his neighbor, cost him $500. 



Pennsyltucky Chris said:


> The County Line 22 is the same as the Huskee, if I'm not mistaken, You got it for $500? I may have to go get one if that's the case. That's like half price!


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## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Jan 18, 2015)

Pennsyltucky Chris said:


> The County Line 22 is the same as the Huskee, if I'm not mistaken, You got it for $500? I may have to go get one if that's the case. That's like half price!


He split it with a friend....


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## Pennsyltucky Chris (Jan 18, 2015)

Ah.... Sorry. First cup of coffee.


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## Hogwildz (Jan 18, 2015)

I got an older Northstar off my neighbor for $400.00
Has the wedge on the end. I like this set up.
I used to borrow it off him, then he went to coal and offered it to me, I snatched that sucka up!
My shoulders and back thank me every time I split wood. Of course my back is still a biach about it after a few hours, but I show it who's boss, till later that night, then it reminds me who really is boss. 
Wise choice, enjoy that every time you split.


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## davidmsem (Jan 18, 2015)

Pennsyltucky Chris said:


> The County Line 22 is the same as the Huskee, if I'm not mistaken, You got it for $500? I may have to go get one if that's the case. That's like half price!


I split the price with my neighbor who runs a wood fired pizza oven next door....


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## davidmsem (Jan 18, 2015)

Hogwildz said:


> I got an older Northstar off my neighbor for $400.00
> Has the wedge on the end. I like this set up.
> I used to borrow it off him, then he went to coal and offered it to me, I snatched that sucka up!
> My shoulders and back thank me every time I split wood. Of course my back is still a biach about it after a few hours, but I show it who's boss, till later that night, then it reminds me who really is boss.
> Wise choice, enjoy that every time you split.


Thanks.....you have steered me to many good decisions.....


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