# Anyone Have A KING Model # 5502M? - I'm Having Issues



## RevRon

I purchased a King 5502M and a ton of AWF pellets from Tractor Supply a couple of months ago. This is my first pellet stove so I don't know much about them. My pellets are nice and dry but it has burned out twice (flame gone out). It has temperature settings and so far it has gone out on settings "1" and "2". Am I doing something wrong? Does anyone have any advice for this model? Also, ash builds up in the two back corners of the burn pot. 

This seems like a great forum. I'm glad I came across it.


----------



## RevRon

I'll post some pics later today to give y'all a better idea of what's going on.


----------



## Bioburner

Will need some details like how much ash in the pot and when running amount of pellets in pot. How vigorous of flame? Venting configuration. We can try help, but if you watch it seems some of this companies stoves lack the support and quality for a happy customer.


----------



## RevRon

Bioburner said:


> Will need some details like how much ash in the pot and when running amount of pellets in pot. How vigorous of flame? Venting configuration. We can try help, but if you watch it seems some of this companies stoves lack the support and quality for a happy customer.



I have the standard 3" pipe going through the wall through the thimble, Up about 3', then a 90* elbow, then another 12" of pipe with a cap. It's the DuraVent kit that TSC sells. Here is a video of it running at the "2" setting.



Perhaps the draft fan is running too high?


----------



## Bioburner

Looks like a lot more air than needed. Blowing out the flame and the stoves efficiency.


----------



## skibladerj

What do you have the draft dan set on?


----------



## RevRon

Thanks for the replies, guys. Sorry I have responded but I have been out of town for a conference. 

The draft fan is currently set to automatic. I have fiddled with it before in manual mode but It seemed to me as if all the settings were the same (no noise level change).


----------



## skibladerj

Ron, 

Try setting your draft fan 2 settings above your heat setting (ie heat setting of 2 = draft fan of 4). Also you might have to increase your feed rate, or manually change the settings of your draft fan. Try the settings above first and we can see what else we might have to do.


----------



## Mister-101

I am having this same exact issue with a 5502M. Getting way too much draft air blowing into the burn pot, literally blowing the pellets up and out of the pot. The stove will run if the draft settings two steps below the auto setting (example HR-3 with a draft setting of 1) but on HR-1 I'm having the exact same problem as the OP here. Setting the draft range two settings higher makes it much worse. Any ideas on what would cause this? I had a Breckwell Big-E before this 5502M and never had this problem at all.


----------



## skibladerj

This might sound stupid but is your airwash open at the bottom of your glass ? I only ask because mine was not (second owner here) the glass gasket went completely around the window. As per manufacture you should have a 6  inch gap at the bottom of the glass. 

Secondly you can try turning the draft fan down but pressing your AUX DOWN . and DRAFT buttons together. this will display a number 150 I believe( I have the 5500M) Turn that number down (regardless of the number ) 25 .


----------



## RevRon

I just checked and the airways is blocked by gasket. It makes since why you would ask. If the air wash is closed, all the air will be drawn through the burnpot creating too much draft.


----------



## skibladerj

Just double check your manual as I have rhe 5500m. I found the best way to cut the gasket goes is with wire cutters.


----------



## Mister-101

Not a stupid question! Airwash is blocked by the gasket on mine. Manual for 5502M says "The glass gasket has a gap at the bottom for the airwash". So trim the gasket out behind that bottom metal strip with the air slots in it on the inside glass? They shipped this thing with one screw holding the distribution blower on. I mounted it up proper with sheet metal screws and went through and tightened up a lot of other bolts. Didn't think to check the airwash. Will also try the draft adjustment. Thanks for the help.


----------



## skibladerj

Yeah I would start with cutting it as long as the slot in the metal bracket. You could always make it bigger if need be, I remember hearing something like 6 inches or so.


----------



## Mister-101

OK so I fixed the door air wash, but still have draft fluctuations in the burn pot. Pressing the AUX DOWN and DRAFT did nothing on this 5502M. Tried adjusting the C-4 value down by half (100>50) It still spits hot pellets up and out of the pot when the draft fan does come on. Exactly like the video a few posts up. Any ideas would be much obliged.


----------



## skibladerj

What is your HR set to ? If it higher than 1 you should have a nice healthy happy flame. If it is set you 1 you might be getting a lot of fly ash which to my knowledge not much you can do about that.


----------



## Mister-101

skibladerj said:


> What is your HR set to ? If it higher than 1 you should have a nice healthy happy flame. If it is set you 1 you might be getting a lot of fly ash which to my knowledge not much you can do about that.



If I set it to HR-3 with a draft setting of 1 (or maybe 2) it burns healthy. So 1-2 draft ranges under factory settings. Seems like something is goofy with this thing. If there was a way to set the draft rate across the entire HR range settings that could help. There's nothing in the manual about that though. Maybe I'm chasing the wrong settings and should increase the feed rate?


----------



## skibladerj

When you set c-4 to let say 50 this is you draft fan 1speed. Then c-5 is the high settng or draft fan 9. The Stove will readjust the gradient.


----------



## rjm1996

We just purchased and installed today. The problem we are having is that the only time the room fan works is during the test process. It never kicks on during operation. Any suggestions are appreciated. Error E3 keeps coming up.


----------



## skibladerj

Is it possible that the temperature ptobe is not connected?  Is is that tells the stove to turn on the room fan. On the 5500m stove its a white two wire connector .... i posted pictures on here some place.


----------



## Bmann

The quality control at US Stove is terrible, I have the 5502m and have all the same issues.


----------



## Larry v

BMann just purchased one of these myself ....very difficult POS to figure out . I currently am running on hr-4 draft fan on 3 . Adjusted draft fan by pressing aux down and draft fan down simultaneously from 100 down to 65 . Room fan on 9  . I am trying to use mine to heat my basement and part of my first floor . I also heat with a Harman xxv on my 1st floor for the rest of the remaining 2 floors .....awesome stove btw. I am not a pellet stove expert but this 5502m scares me . Most unreliable thing I have seen in a while . Mine will just burn out with no err codes or anything . Good luck !


----------



## nicknme21

ive purchase the 5502m i installed it with 3 inch dura vent through a exsisting flue it kept coming up with error 2. i called manufacturer they told me i needed 4inch pipe so i now installed that with the same outcome of error 2. just burns for a while blows for a minute or so then shuts down with the code anyone have any suggestions


----------



## Larry v

Do you have outside air vent coming into stove . Just open the door slightly on stove and see if stove stays running and no err code or burn out also could be possible pressure switch . Behind panel where controls are panel slides rearward when screws are removed . Jump 2 wire with wire jumper or paper clip going to pressure switch looks like a hockey puck with 2 wires going to it. Is it feeding pellets?


----------



## Bmann

another day of toying with settings trying to figure this thing out, I've adjusted the C2 &C3 (feed rate) , the C4 & C5 (draft fan) , but then there are C6 through C20? Does anybody know what they control?


----------



## skibladerj

Bmann said:


> another day of toying with settings trying to figure this thing out, I've adjusted the C2 &C3 (feed rate) , the C4 & C5 (draft fan) , but then there are C6 through C20? Does anybody know what they control?


 
Just as a FYI it is frowned upon by the manufacture to make adjustments to the c codes. They also do not give this information out anymore for liability reasons. All that being said for my 5500m ;

C1 factory restart
C2 Low Feed
C3 High feed
C4 Low Speed Draft fan
C5 High speed Draft Fan
C6 Auger on =0 Auger off =1
C7 Temp Ramp up time? Default =120sec
C8 Start up time out Default = 30mins
C9 Over temp Shut down Default = 445*
C10 Over temp cut back Default = 430*
C11?
C12 Room fan start up temp Default= 110*
C13?
C14?
C15?
C16?
C17 Calculate ambiant air temp default = 0
C18 Room Fan Full on Default 0 (normal operation) 1= full on
C19?
C20?
C21?


----------



## Larry v

Sorry I do not know what they do . I returned my king to tractor supply and purchased a heatilator cab50 . Wow what a difference in two stoves. Almost twice the cost but so far so good.Very simple stove and WOW does it throw some heat !! Good luck !!


----------



## tooltimenova

how to you access the C settings, I have just installed a new 5502m and am having problems with the draft fan speed going up and down continuously.I am running Hr-3,draft fan on 5 but flame goes high and low every 2-3 seconds.I have tried to run on several heat range and draft fan settings but cannot get consistent burn.Window has been so ashed I have cleaned 3 times since installing 2 days ago.Draft fan also vibrates pretty bad when it gets to the high end of the speed cycle.


----------



## mipellet1

when I called on the same problem of inconstant flame the told me to turn up the feed rate I got it set to 2.25 and that helped a lot and I run the fan in manual mode mostly on draft 1 with the fan on 125. to get the that you have to hold aux. and draft down arrow at the same time should come up 100 arrow up to 125. I had to cut the gasket on the glass to get the air wash to work at all if you look at the inside of door there is a slot in the metal you can cut the gasket that long. take the glass right out us wire cutters helps but still gets full of ash around the edges and top.


----------



## mipellet1

I forgot to change the feed rate hold the aux. down and the hr button down at the same time 1.75 came up as the factory arrow up to 2.25. hope this helps


----------



## Grato

I have a 5502m and have similar fluctuation in flame.No matter what setting it seems to do the same.I burn walmart pellets.Looking for input


----------



## Zuni

We have a 5502 as well. We purchased it late Oct and have run 2.5 tons of pellets though it already. Runs 24/7 and I use the auto controls as they seem to work as well as anything. The draft fan is supposed to cycle, at least according to US Stove tech support. As an engineer, I assumed there was a problem with this as the fan was turning on and off every few seconds. I thought the unit would speed control the draft fan, not so, it cycles as that is an easier and cheaper circuit to build. One could argue that the fan will wear out faster by being turned on and off every few seconds, but so far no issue. Keep the stove clean and watch how much sawdust gets into the auger. All in all, it's not as good as a vermont casting woodstove, however I have no complaints. That said, if you are not willing to learn about and work on the stove from time to time, it's not for you.


----------



## Grato

Have Altered C2to C4 ,Moved All Up Although Ash SeemsTo Be HeavIer And Flying A Bit More But Heat Is Good I Tried Automatic With No Luck Fire Was All But Out.


----------



## Timmycharger

Dont want to threadjack here, but I wish I did more research prior to buying my 5502. Ive had it a month and its worked inconsistently. I had it running for many hrs straight for maybe 3 days, but the last 2 times Ive tried to use it, It takes a long time to start, and when it does, I get maybe 10 seconds before it shuts down with an ERR 2.  The auger is turning, I tried 2 different brands of pellets, Im running a pellet vent kit, which is 3 inches through the wall to a 5 foot stack directly outside, so no crazy bends, just 1 90 degree after about 1 foot, then straight up about 5 feet.  i am NOT running a fresh air vent, (should I)? I have not messed with the settings either, but I noticed that the rope gasket on the right side looked burned through, so I put a small dab of automotive RTV to see if that was causing the problem. Now I read above about air wash? where exactly am I looking to see if mine is correct? Im not too happy with this lump so far.


----------



## Zuni

I would put the unit into service mode and then run the auger to see how many pellets you are feeding. Sounds like it is not feeding enough pellets. In the hopper right at the pellets opening there is an adjustable gate. It has a wing nut on it and you can slide it up and down. The unit shipped with it at it's most closed off position. First remove this gate and using the service mode with the stove off, make sure the auger is not jammed or so filled with sawdust it will not pick up pellets. Reinstall the gate, but open it up a bit, say open it up 1/4 inch from the shipped position.Pour in pellets and again using service mode, observe the pellet feed. Run it 10 minutes or so because if it was jammed with sawdust, it will take a bit to clear. The auger and how clean it is(sawdust) are very picky on this stove. Don't forget the auger will not run in service mode if the hopper lid is up as the safety switch is open. Push down on the switch while working on it.


----------



## Timmycharger

Thanks for the suggestion, I will definitely try what you suggested. I tried the gate in a few positions, but if its jammed with saw dust, it wont matter. I did clean out all the pellets and sat there with my finger on the microswitch on the hopper watching the auger turn until it pulled all of the pellets, it took a while. I then vacuumed the auger area as well and installed a different brand of pellet, same deal. Maybe I didnt clean the auger good enough? It spins very slowly, correct?


----------



## skibladerj

Timmycharger said:


> Dont want to threadjack here, but I wish I did more research prior to buying my 5502. Ive had it a month and its worked inconsistently. I had it running for many hrs straight for maybe 3 days, but the last 2 times Ive tried to use it, It takes a long time to start, and when it does, I get maybe 10 seconds before it shuts down with an ERR 2.  The auger is turning, I tried 2 different brands of pellets, Im running a pellet vent kit, which is 3 inches through the wall to a 5 foot stack directly outside, so no crazy bends, just 1 90 degree after about 1 foot, then straight up about 5 feet.  i am NOT running a fresh air vent, (should I)? I have not messed with the settings either, but I noticed that the rope gasket on the right side looked burned through, so I put a small dab of automotive RTV to see if that was causing the problem. Now I read above about air wash? where exactly am I looking to see if mine is correct? Im not too happy with this lump so far.


 

As per the air wash;


----------



## Timmycharger

excellent pics. Thank you


----------



## Countryguy

I cut the inside gasket so that my airwash will work properly for the glass to stay clean....I took the small plate off at the bottom of the door (Has 2 screws in it), cut the gasket that was covering the airwash, and put the plate back on.  Seems to be helping somewhat...is there another gasket that needs to be cut? This again is for the 5502M.  Thanks!!


----------



## skibladerj

No countyguy, thats it. In theory the air is drawn in through the slit and vertical up the glass, then out through the exhaust.


----------



## Lordgalla

hello,new to the forum.
I have the 5502m stove also,new 2weeks ago.I have all settings on auto and running on 1 heat range.Plenty of heat,and no error codes.One thing I have noticed is when I push the off button,the stove shuts down ok,cools then fan shuts down.But then new pellets are added to the burn pot right at the very end of the shut down cycle.So if I go to clean out the burn pot there is a layer of new pellets in the bottom added at the last minute?? Is this normal? If I start up again,will there be to many pellets in the burn pot? Something isn't right here.everything else seems to be fine as far as burning etc.No error codes.Any help will be appreciated.Thankyou.


----------



## Mister-101

Mine does that too. What I do is flip up the hopper lid and then hit the off switch. With the lid up, the auger is off. 



Lordgalla said:


> hello,new to the forum.
> I have the 5502m stove also,new 2weeks ago.I have all settings on auto and running on 1 heat range.Plenty of heat,and no error codes.One thing I have noticed is when I push the off button,the stove shuts down ok,cools then fan shuts down.But then new pellets are added to the burn pot right at the very end of the shut down cycle.So if I go to clean out the burn pot there is a layer of new pellets in the bottom added at the last minute?? Is this normal? If I start up again,will there be to many pellets in the burn pot? Something isn't right here.everything else seems to be fine as far as burning etc.No error codes.Any help will be appreciated.Thankyou.


----------



## Johnny_Fiv3

The feeding of pellets at the end of shut off is normal. I will need to look at the airwash gasket in mine. As far as running goes though, I am very happy with this stove. Besides the auger hairpin falling out, that I replaced with a cotter key, it burns great.


----------



## Lordgalla

Johnny_Fiv3 said:


> The feeding of pellets at the end of shut off is normal. I will need to look at the airwash gasket in mine. As far as running goes though, I am very happy with this stove. Besides the auger hairpin falling out, that I replaced with a cotter key, it burns great.



ok,but when you start it up again,and it adds more pellets on the startup,won't there be to many in the burn pot at start up? If this is ok,then I'll feel better about it.Then there's the thing about cleaning out the burn pot daily.Other than these things here the stove is working great on all automatic settings,and I run it on heat range 1 for now,plenty of heat.


----------



## Johnny_Fiv3

Lordgalla - If you turn the stove on and set it to HR-5, then yes the pot will get too full. There are 2 options (both are simple): 1. Turn the stove on HR-1 and once lit, then crank up to desired setting. 2. Turn stove on to desired setting right off the bat and if the pot starts to get full, simply open the hopper lid or use the auger delay button (60 sec delay) until the fire starts. I typically use option 2 as it's easiest. This time of year the stove is off during the day while the wife and I are gone. It's typically chilly in the house when we get home, so I start out right at HR-5 to knock the chill and dampness out. I let the pot fill about halfway then open the hopper until I see fire.

Also, want to not have to clean the damned pot everyday? Take out your burnpot and put 2 more rows of holes in it on the bottom. See here for example: http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.com/Aftermarket-US-Stove-Pellet-Burnpot-p/pp2011.htm
That is an aftermarket burnpot for our stoves. I was looking for spare parts the other day and saw that. Notice it has holes all over the bottom? First thing I did was take my pot out to the shop, slap it in the vise, drew some reference lines, and added 2 more rows of holes. The pot never gets crapped up now. I scrape it once a week just because I'm already in the stove vacuuming, it could go for much longer. 

skibladerj - Thanks for the pics. Mine was blocked by the gasket as well. Cut the gasket to clear the air path and wow, what a difference.


----------



## Lordgalla

Johnny_Fiv3 said:


> Lordgalla - If you turn the stove on and set it to HR-5, then yes the pot will get too full. There are 2 options (both are simple): 1. Turn the stove on HR-1 and once lit, then crank up to desired setting. 2. Turn stove on to desired setting right off the bat and if the pot starts to get full, simply open the hopper lid or use the auger delay button (60 sec delay) until the fire starts. I typically use option 2 as it's easiest. This time of year the stove is off during the day while the wife and I are gone. It's typically chilly in the house when we get home, so I start out right at HR-5 to knock the chill and dampness out. I let the pot fill about halfway then open the hopper until I see fire.
> 
> Also, want to not have to clean the damned pot everyday? Take out your burnpot and put 2 more rows of holes in it on the bottom. See here for example: http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.com/Aftermarket-US-Stove-Pellet-Burnpot-p/pp2011.htm
> That is an aftermarket burnpot for our stoves. I was looking for spare parts the other day and saw that. Notice it has holes all over the bottom? First thing I did was take my pot out to the shop, slap it in the vise, drew some reference lines, and added 2 more rows of holes. The pot never gets crapped up now. I scrape it once a week just because I'm already in the stove vacuuming, it could go for much longer.
> 
> skibladerj - Thanks for the pics. Mine was blocked by the gasket as well. Cut the gasket to clear the air path and wow, what a difference.




On that door gasket,mine  is not cut at the bottom of the window inside ,does cutting this help with the inside of the window from getting black? and it won't cause a error or leak in the door? My glass gets black inside the door,outside clean.Probably cause I run it on heat range 1 all the time so far this year,not cold enough around here yet.

Thankyou,Johnny_ Fiv3 for all the info.Really helps a lot.


----------



## Johnny_Fiv3

Modding the pot like i said really cuts down on the crappy HR-1 performance. It will surprise you. 

For the air wash gasket, you're only cutting the gasket on the back of the door. No need to remove the glass or anything, just the 2 screws to get the plate off. I used a utility knife to cut out the gasket material. When you put the screws back in, make sure there is a gap between the bracket and the glass. When I put mine back in, the flexed a bit once the screws were tight and didn't leave a gap. All I did was use a couple small pieces of the gasket I cut out as "shims" then tightened the screws. Worked great.


----------



## Lordgalla

Johnny_Fiv3 said:


> Modding the pot like i said really cuts down on the crappy HR-1 performance. It will surprise you.
> 
> For the air wash gasket, you're only cutting the gasket on the back of the door. No need to remove the glass or anything, just the 2 screws to get the plate off. I used a utility knife to cut out the gasket material. When you put the screws back in, make sure there is a gap between the bracket and the glass. When I put mine back in, the flexed a bit once the screws were tight and didn't leave a gap. All I did was use a couple small pieces of the gasket I cut out as "shims" then tightened the screws. Worked great.



ok,but does it keep the inside of the glass form getting black.Inside the door?


----------



## Johnny_Fiv3

Nothing will do that. Soot and ash will eventually cloud up the glass. It does make it stay cleaner longer. It will eventually get black, the airwash just makes it take longer.


----------



## Lordgalla

Johnny_Fiv3 said:


> Nothing will do that. Soot and ash will eventually cloud up the glass. It does make it stay cleaner longer. It will eventually get black, the airwash just makes it take longer.



ok,I cut the gasket for the air wash,and it's 100% better.thankyou for all the help on this stuff.

Now the only thing I don't like is that it adds pellets when you shut it off,after all fans shut down,pellets drop in.Then when you start it up it adds more,filling the burn pot almost to the top.Even with it set on heat range 1.Then you have this roaring fire when it first starts up.

Is this a  design flaw in the circuit? 

Seems weird to me,that it would add pellets at the end,and at startup.Is opening the lid before shutdown the only way to prevent this?

I tried asking the factory,and no one responds at all to emails I guess.Not even to the question about the use of a external t-stat.But I guess adding all these extra pellets at shutdown and startup with a T-stat,could be a real problem.


----------



## Arti

Lordgalla said:


> ok,I cut the gasket for the air wash,and it's 100% better.thankyou for all the help on this stuff.
> 
> Now the only thing I don't like is that it adds pellets when you shut it off,after all fans shut down,pellets drop in.Then when you start it up it adds more,filling the burn pot almost to the top.Even with it set on heat range 1.Then you have this roaring fire when it first starts up.
> 
> Is this a  design flaw in the circuit?
> 
> Seems weird to me,that it would add pellets at the end,and at startup.Is opening the lid before shutdown the only way to prevent this?
> 
> I tried asking the factory,and no one responds at all to emails I guess.Not even to the question about the use of a external t-stat.But I guess adding all these extra pellets at shutdown and startup with a T-stat,could be a real problem.



I suspect that the pellets added at the end are for safety, this would purge the feed auger in case any hot pellets are at the end of the auger preventing burn back into the hopper.


----------



## Owen1508

Arti said:


> I suspect that the pellets added at the end are for safety, this would purge the feed auger in case any hot pellets are at the end of the auger preventing burn back into the hopper.


100% correct and if for any reason you open the door the timer will reset for another 15 Mins (that is if you open it prior to the 1st 15 min purge).  It is a safety feature for burn back.
I can answer any question you have on an thermostat hook up.  Might want to PM me or start a new thread though.  The guys at the factory might not answer you direct, best to route all questions to Tech Support at 800-750-2723   or  support@usstove.com


----------



## Johnny_Fiv3

Owen1508 said:


> 100% correct and if for any reason you open the door the timer will reset for another 15 Mins (that is if you open it prior to the 1st 15 min purge).  It is a safety feature for burn back.
> I can answer any question you have on an thermostat hook up.  Might want to PM me or start a new thread though.  The guys at the factory might not answer you direct, best to route all questions to Tech Support at 800-750-2723   or  support@usstove.com



^^ This guy has been very helpful.


----------



## Lordgalla

Owen1508 said:


> 100% correct and if for any reason you open the door the timer will reset for another 15 Mins (that is if you open it prior to the 1st 15 min purge).  It is a safety feature for burn back.
> I can answer any question you have on an thermostat hook up.  Might want to PM me or start a new thread though.  The guys at the factory might not answer you direct, best to route all questions to Tech Support at 800-750-2723   or  support@usstove.com



Hi there,Owen1508
I understand the adding of pellets for safety,but when I start the stove again in the morning.It adds even more pellets,so the burn pot is almost full now.Then I have this huge flame on startup,a messed up window and then the pot is full of ash in corners after i shut down again.If I shut the stove down with the lid open,no pellets are added,then when I startup next morning,it adds pellets,and I have a perfect flame,clean glass,and all set on auto,heat range 1.It's just the adding of pellets when I shut it down,that causes the problem of to many pellets when I start it up again.So the lift the cover thing works on shutdown,then it starts up fine.Is this the way it's done?The main thing is this safe to do? Runs great this way.I have done the window gasket for wash,and it's helped a lot to.


----------



## Lordgalla

Owen1508 said:


> 100% correct and if for any reason you open the door the timer will reset for another 15 Mins (that is if you open it prior to the 1st 15 min purge).  It is a safety feature for burn back.
> I can answer any question you have on an thermostat hook up.  Might want to PM me or start a new thread though.  The guys at the factory might not answer you direct, best to route all questions to Tech Support at 800-750-2723   or  support@usstove.com



Hello,
I started a new thread on putting a T-Stat on this 5502m stove. Or can I put a t-stat on this 5502m stove.New thread in the pellet mill.New to this hope I'm telling you where it is.Thankyou.


----------



## mainestratman

Larry v said:


> Do you have outside air vent coming into stove . Just open the door slightly on stove and see if stove stays running and no err code or burn out also could be possible pressure switch . Behind panel where controls are panel slides rearward when screws are removed . Jump 2 wire with wire jumper or paper clip going to pressure switch looks like a hockey puck with 2 wires going to it. Is it feeding pellets?



Draft fan on my stove would switch off with the door slightly closed, not even closed tightly.  It has been doing this since it came out of the crate...

I disconnected one of the wires to the "hockey puck" and the draft fan remains on... I'm assuming that this is not a recommended practice..?


----------



## Owen1508

Lordgalla said:


> Hi there,Owen1508
> I understand the adding of pellets for safety,but when I start the stove again in the morning.It adds even more pellets,so the burn pot is almost full now.Then I have this huge flame on startup,a messed up window and then the pot is full of ash in corners after i shut down again.If I shut the stove down with the lid open,no pellets are added,then when I startup next morning,it adds pellets,and I have a perfect flame,clean glass,and all set on auto,heat range 1.It's just the adding of pellets when I shut it down,that causes the problem of to many pellets when I start it up again.So the lift the cover thing works on shutdown,then it starts up fine.Is this the way it's done?The main thing is this safe to do? Runs great this way.I have done the window gasket for wash,and it's helped a lot to.


It would be safer if you opened the lid during start up.....If you call me when you are by the stove I can adjust all this for you so you won't have to do this at all.  I sent you a PM


----------



## Owen1508

Lordgalla said:


> Hello,
> I started a new thread on putting a T-Stat on this 5502m stove. Or can I put a t-stat on this 5502m stove.New thread in the pellet mill.New to this hope I'm telling you where it is.Thankyou.


https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/hook-up-thermostat-to-stove.134570/
That the thread on a T-Stat hook up


----------



## 78racing

Can someone tell me how to change the stove from Auto to Manual. I would think it to be as simple as pressing the manual button, but that is not so.

thanks


----------



## Owen1508

78racing said:


> Can someone tell me how to change the stove from Auto to Manual. I would think it to be as simple as pressing the manual button, but that is not so.
> 
> thanks


Both the draft fan and room fan need to be on Auto for it to be in auto mode.  Press the draft fan up arrow to 9 then one more to A....drft-a.  That is auto do the same for the room fan....rfan-a.  The auto light will light and be solid.  If it blinks one of those are not on auto.  The draft fan should always be run in auto anyway


----------



## Dan Celentano

I have the 5502m and my glass gasket is also not cut out, but not sure how i should cut it. I think I need to cut 6 in of the glass gasket completely front and back of glass but someone one in the forum said only cut out the back if i cut it out completely that would allow air to go in from the front of the door is this correct?


----------



## mipellet1

yes you cut it front and back or the air will not go through.


----------



## Johnny_Fiv3

The glass gasket needs to be cut only inside the door. The metal bracket with the slot in it is what needs to be open. No other gasket material needs to be removed.

@Owen1508 - Chime in if I'm incorrect.


----------



## Owen1508

The width is 4 Inches.  It is for an airwash so air is suppose to be pulled in and over the inside glass to help it from sooting, so the glass gasket is to be cut with a 4 "(+/-) gap in the bottom center


----------



## Metal

Owen1508 said:


> The width is 4 Inches.  It is for an airwash so air is suppose to be pulled in and over the inside glass to help it from sooting, so the glass gasket is to be cut with a 4 "(+/-) gap in the bottom center



Sorry if I am being obtuse but still not sure so, Owen, are you saying the gasket needs to be cut on the inside and outside of the glass, or just the inside?  I'll have to remove the glass to get to the outside part of the gasket.


----------



## Owen1508

Metal said:


> Sorry if I am being obtuse but still not sure so, Owen, are you saying the gasket needs to be cut on the inside and outside of the glass, or just the inside?  I'll have to remove the glass to get to the outside part of the gasket.



Yes both the inside and outside


----------



## Johnny_Fiv3

Oh really?? Oh man maybe that's why mine over drafts sometimes. Mine is not cut on the outside


----------



## Dan Celentano

Owen1508 said:


> The width is 4 Inches.  It is for an airwash so air is suppose to be pulled in and over the inside glass to help it from sooting, so the glass gasket is to be cut with a 4 "(+/-) gap in the bottom center


If you go to usstove .com they have a video for installing a glass not the same model stove but they leave a complete gap inside and outside about six inches.


----------



## Dan Celentano

Dan Celentano said:


> If you go to usstove .com they have a video for installing a glass not the same model stove but they leave a complete gap inside and outside about six inches.


what i dont understand is the bottom frame of the door has to tabs that extend out so does the gasket get cut before those tabs or does the gasket get compressed against them. I would think the gasket gets cut before the tabs so the glass goes flush against the tabs and tightens the gasket more from that point on to the corner.  i would like someones opinion or if they know exactly how the installation should be.


----------



## Metal

If you cut the gap to be 4" wide, like Owen states, the gasket will be compressed by the "tabs" in the cast door.  I cut the gasket out and it made a HUGE difference keeping the glass clean.


----------



## sweets

You should of bought vogelzang 5790, or 5760 same company better stoves..


----------



## Johnny_Fiv3

sweets said:


> You should of bought vogelzang 5790, or 5760 same company better stoves..



Right, but he didn't. These stoves work just fine once a few bugs are worked out. I am very pleased with mine.


----------



## sweets

Your rite , they all have bugs to work out..


----------



## Lindsey-Ann

Johnny_Fiv3 said:


> Right, but he didn't. These stoves work just fine once a few bugs are worked out. I am very pleased with mine.



 Same with me after some help, thanks 
It keeps my super drafty lil old farm house warm. Probably a good thing the house is a tad drafty, or it would be too warm in here. I don't go above HR 3 as that is plenty warm


----------



## Johnny_Fiv3

Lindsey-Ann said:


> Same with me after some help, thanks
> It keeps my super drafty lil old farm house warm. Probably a good thing the house is a tad drafty, or it would be too warm in here. I don't go above HR 3 as that is plenty warm



Glad I was able to help!


----------



## mainestratman

New year.. new potential issue.

I cleaned the stove out really super well and we've started burning again, here and there (shoulder season, you know)... we're using the same brand of pellets that we found to be so very successful last year, and they are still just as good and hot as I remember them (Canawick).

However, the room fan (convection fan?  Whatever the nomenclature) doesn't seem to be pushing much air.  If I run the stove on HR-5, the inside of the pellet hopper gets so warm that I can hardly touch it (although the pellets get to about "warm" and that's about it).

I don't know if I'm imagining things or not, or if the fact that the newest addition to our pellet stove family (a 1991 Lopi 400PS) has spoiled me with its room fan... when I set that fan to "high", you KNOW it's blowing... like a thick warm blanket of air that wraps around you..

The King is still heating things up well and burning great... however, it seems there should be more "oomph" from the fan... if I recall correctly, it's supposed to be a 120CFM fan.. feels like about half of that.  Perhaps there's an aftermarket fan out there that's a little more powerful, that doesn't cost half as much as the stove originally did?  

Thoughts?

My thanks to you all.


----------



## mainestratman

Initial thoughts... 

Rule #1:  When cleaning out your pellet stove, utilize a flashlight!

When I vacuumed out the room fan, I used my shop vac, new filter, and the brush attachment.. after a few minutes of scrubbing the squirrel cage, it looked about how it did when I started, but lighter in color, so I _assumed_ (yeah, I know) that I'd gotten it cleaned out pretty well.

Turns out, I only pulled out the top layer of animal hair.

So 15 minutes, scraping out the cage with a smallish allen wrench, then brushing it with an old toothbrush (I think it was old... but I put it back.. lol), then another few rounds of vacuuming... then a final inspection while utilizing a flashlight, and the difference in appearance is night and day.  I am going to assume that will significantly increase my CFM and keep the stove from trying to melt.

I have gained wisdom this day!


----------



## Johnny_Fiv3

That fan is super touchy if it's got caked dust. I used a brush on mine a month ago when I did the yearly. It should blow strong and it can be heard if running right.


----------



## Dan Celentano

Can anyone tell me at which heat (1-5) settings does the low and high speed auger rate effect?


----------



## Johnny_Fiv3

When setting the variables on these stoves, you set the low (setting 1) and the high (setting 5). The other HR settings are then calculated on a curve by the control board. So when setting the feed rate (auger rate as you call it) you pick the rate for setting 1 and setting 5. The others are calculated for you by the control board.


----------



## Dan Celentano

Johnny_Fiv3 said:


> When setting the variables on these stoves, you set the low (setting 1) and the high (setting 5). The other HR settings are then calculated on a curve by the control board. So when setting the feed rate (auger rate as you call it) you pick the rate for setting 1 and setting 5. The others are calculated for you by the control board.


Thank you


----------



## mainestratman

Good blustery winter, fellow 5502M owners.

I've run into some more issues with my stove... it seems that even on HR-5 with DF 1, it's nearly burning itself out.  The RF is super weak: it's spinning and putting out warm air, but it's not as fast as I feel it should be.  When I do a factory reset on it, for an instant, the RF kicks on and moves some air!  But then it kicks back down, and regardless if I set RF to 1 or 9 or A, it all blows the same speed.

So, at the moment, I have DF 1, HR-5, RF 9.  I've increased HR-5 to 5.00 in the C-codes and set C-18 to 1.

Specs on the stove: OAK installed and have a short 2' run (with about an inch rise), terminating in a t-cap.  I am wired to a Walmart thermostat that's always worked well (and currently set to 80F).  I'm burning Canawick, which have treated me really well in the past.

The stove is in a 450 sqft room, and right now is barely keeping it at 50F (15F outside).  HR-5 is blinking (because it's on the thermostat?) and no matter what I do or adjust the "Auto" light blinking in time with the "5" in "HR-5".

Moving the RF and DF from A does not change the Auto light from blinking.

This stove nearly roasted us out of the house last winter, once I worked out all the bugs... this year, it's scarcely warming the place.

Thoughts?


----------



## Johnny_Fiv3

Is it clean? Exhaust path clear?


----------



## mainestratman

Yes ,and yes.

For troubleshooting purposes (and because I don't trust things from Wamart to last more than a couple of weeks, I disconnected the t-stat and replaced the jumper on the circuit board.  RF is screaming now.. lots of air moving through it.  However, even with DF-1 and HR-5, I'm still burning through pellets super quickly... in fact, it seems to be getting worse.. the stove has gone out twice... :-/

At this point, I figure worst-case scenario I'll occlude the OAK vent outside.  Duct tape is a cheap fix.  

Still tweaking and letting it run.


----------



## FirepotPete

Why would you be running the DF lower than the feed rate (HR#)? The DF should be at or one higher than the feed rate. Unless you have changed the DF settings on the board (high/low) that stove should automatically adjust the DF per the HR rate.


----------



## mainestratman

Yes, I know this.  However...

Having the DF at anything above DF-1 is basically blowing out the fire.

I bumped the High Feed Rate back up to 5.00, and I go back every half hour or so and manually toss a couple handfuls of pellets into the pot.  That seems to be helping.


----------



## FirepotPete

mainestratman said:


> Yes, I know this.  However...
> 
> Having the DF at anything above DF-1 is basically blowing out the fire.
> 
> I bumped the High Feed Rate back up to 5.00, and I go back every half hour or so and manually toss a couple handfuls of pellets into the pot.  That seems to be helping.



What is your HR1/HR5 set at? What is the DF1/DF9 set at?


----------



## mainestratman

HR-1 and the DF low/high are all factory default.  HR-5 is set at 5.00.


----------



## FirepotPete

mainestratman said:


> HR-1 and the DF low/high are all factory default.  HR-5 is set at 5.00.


OK, what are the numbers showing to be factory default. Just because you may have reset to factory default you still have to check that those numbers indeed did change. Please actually press the HR down and AUX down buttons together to get the HR1 feed rate setting and the DF #'s high and low.


----------



## Johnny_Fiv3

Since these are known to have improperly set defaults. I would verify they reset correctly.


----------



## FirepotPete

Johnny_Fiv3 said:


> Since these are known to have improperly set defaults. I would verify they reset correctly.


Exactly. And even his setup will determine how the defaults might need to be tweaked. Although he says it ran good last season I would still like to see those numbers and hope that he had made a note of how he had the HR feed rates and DF rates set last year when it was running good. 

I see he disabled the t-stat and put the jumper back on the board, that's a good start at trouble shooting. Now if the board is whacked out I'd think there should be a fault/error light blinking, I wonder if opening the door changes the DF light showing loss of vacuum? If any of these things aren't working right, I'd unplug from the power source for an hour or two, let the memory cache dump, plug back in, look at the numbers and retry starting and see how it runs.


----------



## Bybyoil

FirepotPete said:


> Why would you be running the DF lower than the feed rate (HR#)? The DF should be at or one higher than the feed rate. Unless you have changed the DF settings on the board (high/low) that stove should automatically adjust the DF per the HR rate.


 Yup my 5502m adjusts to the heat range you put it in !


----------

