# Magnum Baby CountrySide-AC powered Control Panel - FS Wood pellet stove does not stay lit? Fixed!!



## Don2222 (Dec 20, 2011)

Hello

Does anyone have one of these stoves?

It may need a good cleaning, but looking for any other tips on this stove.

Thanks


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## DexterDay (Dec 20, 2011)

Did you buy a Baby to fix up Don?

Does it have the pellet pot or Corn pot? Also is the board programmed to Corn or Pellet mode? 

If it lights but goes out,  it may not be reaching the min temp in the set amount of time. These stoves dont produce a lot of air through the pot. My buddies needed a new Door, Hopper, and Ash pan gasket (and it was new). Also needed to modify the burn.pot.  But another member had good luck with blocking about half of the air wash slit at the bottom on the inside of the door. This will allow more air to come through the pot.

Just a couple tips.


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## Don2222 (Dec 20, 2011)

Hello Dexter

No, I did not buy one. Just going to help someone with theirs.

Thanks alot for the great tips!! I will check them out.


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## DexterDay (Dec 20, 2011)

Don2222 said:
			
		

> Hello Dexter
> 
> No, I did not buy one. Just going to help someone with theirs.
> 
> Thanks alot for the great tips!! I will check them out.



If you go to Magnums website, there is a lot of troubleshooting tips on there. Thats where the one Forum member found the air wash trick.


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## Don2222 (Dec 22, 2011)

DexterDay said:
			
		

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Thanks Dexter for these links.

Magnum Baby Countryside Installed and Running
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/83873/P22/

Restrict Air Wash = Better Burn.
http://magnumheatforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=279&sid=86bb480537aeb4a19491edad6f00b077

The stove has the upgraded larger CFM combustion Blower and the upgraded burn pot WITHOUT the top 2 rows of holes!!
The ash pan gasket from the factory is very leaky and the venting was not cleaned in a couple of years.

See pics below

1st Pic - Pellet Burn Pot with no top 2 rows of holes
2nd Pic - New Original Burn Pot with 2 top rows of holes


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## jrsdws (Dec 22, 2011)

Don - On my new Baby, I had to add some gasket to the ashpan door....the rest were ok.  I had to go with the pellet only pot to burn pellets....and blocking the air wash slot helps alot.  I have recently removed the airwash block and I'm still getting good complete pellets burns.  I run on a thermostat and I keep burning when it goes into "pilot" mode which is feed level one with auger trim set at it's lowest.  

The leaking ashpan gasket wasn't allowing me to bring enough fresh air in through OAK without tripping a vacuum switch error.  The added gasket fixed this straight away and I have full range of damper on OAK available now.  

Sounds like you're on the right track...a good cleaning and gasket fix and hopefully you're ok.


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## Don2222 (Dec 22, 2011)

jrsdws said:
			
		

> Don - On my new Baby, I had to add some gasket to the ashpan door....the rest were ok.  I had to go with the pellet only pot to burn pellets....and blocking the air wash slot helps alot.  I have recently removed the airwash block and I'm still getting good complete pellets burns.  I run on a thermostat and I keep burning when it goes into "pilot" mode which is feed level one with auger trim set at it's lowest.
> 
> The leaking ashpan gasket wasn't allowing me to bring enough fresh air in through OAK without tripping a vacuum switch error.  The added gasket fixed this straight away and I have full range of damper on OAK available now.
> 
> Sounds like you're on the right track...a good cleaning and gasket fix and hopefully you're ok.



What does the "Wood Pellet Only Burn Pot" look like? is it the 1st one in my picture?

Thanks
I will be replacing the ash pan gasket today.


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## Don2222 (Dec 22, 2011)

Hello

Top Level Magnum forum Link
http://www.magnumheatforum.com/

*From Magnum Bulletin, What jumper setting do you use for wood pellets?*
http://www.americanenergysystems.com/Stock/LibraryFiles/P-0013TechBWoodPelletFirepot.pdf

Appropriate jumper setting: The number 3 & 4 pin location is the factory default setting.
99% of households will work under this setting. The number 1 & 2 pin location is only used
on the Baby should the customer need a little higher feed.

The wood pellet pot is the one with most of the holes located at or near the bottom of the pot, while the corn pot has them spaced out up the sides. If you need a higher feed rate, open the side of your stove where the control board is located. Unplug the unit from the power source, and look at the back of the board. In the upper left hand corner of the board you will see what looks like 2 wire 'fingers' with a small black plastic piece next to them. The factory setting has this black piece, which is actually a jumper located to the right of the two pins. There are actually four pins, and the jumper is on the right 2. Making sure the unit is unplugged, (unless you like electrical shocks!) pull the jumper straight toward you, off the two right pins, and put it on the two left pins. This will increase your feed rate substantially.

The # 2 & 3 pins are the highest feed rate setting. I would be careful about using these, as this setting is designed for the Winchester stove, and may cause your stove to overheat and shut down. I have used this setting on a stove that appeared to have a very low feed rate, but as I said- be careful!

Low Heat Magnum Baby Countryside
http://www.magnumheatforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=168

The number one reason that we find for low heat is that the unit has been set on a thermostat setting and there is no thermostat installed. Please check to make sure that you are set on the manual operation setting. This is located on the front of the control panel toward the top.

See Jumper Setting in Pic Below. Click to Enlarge
Low Feed Rate - Left most pins (Default)
High Feed Rate - Middle 2 Pins
Medium Feed Rate - Right most pins


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## SWNH (Dec 22, 2011)

Wow...this site never fails to amaze me. I bought one from Craig (the founder) last month and have not really been satisfied with it, due to it's performance (fire pot fills up in 12 hrs...pellets actually back up into the auger chute). After searching this forum (I'm a regular wood burner so I don't read this section much), I found some great tips to try.

I blocked the air wash yesterday and that helped.  This morning, I ordered a new pellet-only firepot from AES. Since their delivery times are very slow (it's been 2 hrs since I ordered and it's not here yet... :ahhh: ), I decided to modify the existing firepot (why not? I'm not going to use it again.)  I welded the top two rows of holes closed and it's burning now.  I can already see the difference in performance.


Hmmm....might have to cancel that order.


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## Don2222 (Dec 22, 2011)

Peter SWNH said:
			
		

> Wow...this site never fails to amaze me. I bought one from Craig (the founder) last month and have not really been satisfied with it, due to it's performance (fire pot fills up in 12 hrs...pellets actually back up into the auger chute). After searching this forum (I'm a regular wood burner so I don't read this section much), I found some great tips to try.
> 
> I blocked the air wash yesterday and that helped.  This morning, I ordered a new pellet-only firepot from AES. Since their delivery times are very slow (it's been 2 hrs since I ordered and it's not here yet... :ahhh: ), I decided to modify the existing firepot (why not? I'm not going to use it again.)  I welded the top two rows of holes closed and it's burning now.  I can already see the difference in performance.
> 
> ...



Check the Ash Pan Gasket. Many times it does not seal right from the Factory! Do the dollar bill test.

I got a new 5' flat gasket at the local hearth shop for $7.50 and use RTV not the gasket cement. It will install in a breeze. Also use a wire brush or a nice dremel with the small wire brush attachment to clean under the gasket. Dremel works wonders for getting in that channel when replacing the door gasket!!


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## DexterDay (Dec 22, 2011)

My buddy (forum member barnyard840x) modified his burn pot last year. We tig welded the top 2 rows and know he has to close the damper about 1/2 way. Great air flow now. Burns great. No black soot. Just light grey to almost white ash. Burns as good as my Quad. Quite the little heater now.

AES didnt put much thought into the Baby. Takes a little TLC to get it going right.

By closing up those top 2 rows, you essentially made a pellet pot.

I dont advise anyone to modify there stoves. But if you take all precautions and fully understand what your doing. Its possible to alter without any ramifications. Again. Take caution in doing so. But many Baby owners have had air flow problems. And its solved by plugging the airwash some or plugging up some upper holes in the pot.

Congrats on the stove. Craig had his all dressed up. I remember seeing it in the for sale section. The brass definitely makes the stove look much better.


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## Don2222 (Dec 22, 2011)

DexterDay said:
			
		

> My buddy (forum member barnyard840x) modified his burn pot last year. We tig welded the top 2 rows and know he has to close the damper about 1/2 way. Great air flow now. Burns great. No black soot. Just light grey to almost white ash. Burns as good as my Quad. Quite the little heater now.
> 
> AES didnt put much thought into the Baby. Takes a little TLC to get it going right.
> 
> ...



Hi Dexter
Can you find out your buddies jumper setting for us? See my previous post.
Since this stove was setup for corn from the factory with the corn pot, plus I also know that corn burns hotter so it needs a slower burn rate. Therefore I am assuming that the jumper setting on low auger speed is for corn and for pellets it should be set for medium. The owners manual does not cover this!!


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## Don2222 (Dec 22, 2011)

Hello

Well, I installed the Air Wash Mod with the 325 Deg F Temp foil tape from Home Depot. Then I used the tape to go over the auger screws in the hopper and then used graphite spray on the hopper and auger chute.

Also set the jumper to medium burn for wood pellets so this stove is ready to roll!!

This is a Great stove to work on

See pics


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## SWNH (Dec 22, 2011)

"Then I used the tape to go over the auger screws in the hopper..."

I missed something here. The reason for this?


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## Don2222 (Dec 22, 2011)

SWNH said:
			
		

> "Then I used the tape to go over the auger screws in the hopper..."
> 
> I missed something here. The reason for this?



So the wood pellets slide down easier!! So do not blame the pellets if it is your hopper!!

Imacman did it too

See his pic
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/86217/


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## jrsdws (Dec 23, 2011)

Yep that's the right pot....I actually just modded mine with foil tape on the outside of the pot and smeared some high temp gasket adhesive along the joint....cheap and easy and easily reversed if I want to burn corn.  I'm running the jumper on 1-2 for pellets.  I think I found out about the jumper settings on one of my many google searches

Glad you got it going


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## SWNH (Dec 23, 2011)

SWNH said:
			
		

> This morning, I ordered a new pellet-only firepot from AES. Since their delivery times are very slow (it's been 2 hrs since I ordered and it's not here yet... :ahhh: ), I decided to modify the existing firepot (why not? I'm not going to use it again.)  I welded the top two rows of holes closed and it's burning now.  I can already see the difference in performance.
> 
> Hmmm....might have to cancel that order.




Called and canceled my order. My modified pot works fine. Been running at level 5 for 10hrs now. Fire pot is at the same level when it was at 1 hr. No ash build up like before and my basement is now 78F. Sweet! Now let's see if it'll stay burning at level 1...


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## DexterDay (Dec 23, 2011)

SWNH said:
			
		

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With so much air, you may need to adjust the damper...... Maybe... Maybe not. If its dying out, you can raise the Feed trim up 1 (as per manual instructions) or close the damper.


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## Don2222 (Dec 23, 2011)

jrsdws said:
			
		

> Yep that's the right pot....I actually just modded mine with foil tape on the outside of the pot and smeared some high temp gasket adhesive along the joint....cheap and easy and easily reversed if I want to burn corn.  I'm running the jumper on 1-2 for pellets.  I think I found out about the jumper settings on one of my many google searches
> 
> Glad you got it going



Hello

Thanks about the jumper settings. It is not going yet, and I suspect it may be the ignitor. 
The ignitor is 175 watts which is pretty low. That means it should last longer but it also takes longer to lite the pellets like 3-5 minutes.

*Did you or anyone replace the ignitor? If so how long do they last? How many ohms should a good igniter measure on the ohm meter??*

From Magnum Forum
The igniter for a MagnuM Baby Countryside stove uses 175 watts and it normally takes three to five minutes to light wood pellets in a stove (it may take longer in some cases) and the igniter runs for ten minutes. The igniter takes .175kw x .08 = 1.4 cents. If the igniter is on for ten minutes it would take only ten out of sixty minutes in an hour so 1/6 x 1.4 cents = .233 cents per lighting cycle. The use of the igniter on a Magnum Pellet stove will vary with individual usage, but if it went through a relight cycle twenty times in a day it would take .233 cents x 20 = 4.66 cents or less than a nickel a day (with wet or poor fuel it may take 2-3 cycles for the unit to light properly).


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## Don2222 (Dec 23, 2011)

SWNH said:
			
		

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What level was it working on?

Please let me know if it stays lit on level 1. Thanks


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## Don2222 (Dec 23, 2011)

DexterDay said:
			
		

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Hi Dexter

If I raise the feed trim up one then what setting is that? It still seems to be dying out.


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## DexterDay (Dec 23, 2011)

The trim is only good for level 1. You can raise or lower the trim by 1 each way. 

Have you manually lit the stove. Takes about 20 seconds with a Propane torch. Light till pelllets are red coals, close door, and Boom. FIRE 

With what you have done and it still wont run?? I would be thinking either Low limit isnt sensing fire, or vacuum switch is bad???


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## Don2222 (Dec 23, 2011)

DexterDay said:
			
		

> The trim is only good for level 1. You can raise or lower the trim by 1 each way.
> 
> Have you manually lit the stove. Takes about 20 seconds with a Propane torch. Light till pelllets are red coals, close door, and Boom. FIRE
> 
> With what you have done and it still wont run?? I would be thinking either Low limit isnt sensing fire, or vacuum switch is bad???



I had to run out tonight and get more propane for my torch. So I will try that tomorrow.

The vacuum switch seems to be working  because the fault light was coming on when the ash pan door was opened or leaking air.

What happens if the Low Limit does not sense fire, the  switch will stay open.
Then the Auger will stop in about 10 mins.

The low limit switch should be located on the exhaust? Right

So if the auger does stop in 10 mins, I can jumper out the POF switch and it should work?


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## SWNH (Dec 23, 2011)

Don2222 said:
			
		

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Was running on level 2 for a few hours. No problem. Just turned it down to level 1 (no trim adjustment made) and will let it run thru the night and report back tomorrow.


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## DexterDay (Dec 23, 2011)

Yes Don. You are correct. The switch is almost on the blower itself. You can jumper it, to bypass. But dont leave it like that. Only do it to troubleshoot and find your problem. 

The snap disc may be loose, or it could be bad all together. Either way, dont leave it jumpered (Not safe).


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## jrsdws (Dec 23, 2011)

I don't use the igniter.  I fill a mason jar with pellets and squirt just enough charcoal lighter fluid to saturate all when shaken and keep it on hand for lighting.  It only takes the equivalent of a handful or two in the pot...lay a match on it...close door and start stove in manual.  The fire spreads across and takes off every time.  

On heat level 1:  auger trim setting high will also light up light #5, auger trim setting low will light up light #4, and auger trim on "normal" you will only see the #1 light on.


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## SWNH (Dec 23, 2011)

SWNH said:
			
		

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Ran fine all night on feed level 1 (default auger trim). Level of ash hasn't changed. Still around the 1/4 level. I believe my issues with this stove have been addressed. Oh, and the ash pan door passed the dollar bill test.

What I don't understand is why there is a "floor" in the ash pot. If it was open, ash passing thru the fire pot could fall straight down to the ash PAN.


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## DexterDay (Dec 23, 2011)

Pot has to be sealed. So air flow is forced through the burn pot holes. Without it being sealed, there would be minimal pressure through the pot and stove wouldnt burn. 

All pots are a sealed system. No matter the model. Has to sit in a liner (of sorts, depends on model how it is).

Ash oan is for fly ash mainly. You can "scoop" the ash out of the pot and throw it over. But for the most part,  fly-ash.


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## SWNH (Dec 23, 2011)

DexterDay said:
			
		

> Pot has to be sealed. So air flow is forced through the burn pot holes. Without it being sealed, there would be minimal pressure through the pot and stove wouldn't burn.
> 
> All pots are a sealed system. No matter the model. Has to sit in a liner (of sorts, depends on model how it is).
> 
> Ash pan is for fly ash mainly. You can "scoop" the ash out of the pot and throw it over. But for the most part,  fly-ash.




Makes sense, I guess.

I do miss my old bottom feed Earthstove. Never had to do anything to that other than empty the ash pan every few days. Never shut it down to do that, either...just a "hot-swap" of one pan for another. The feed auger just pushed everything out of the way with great impunity.


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## Don2222 (Dec 23, 2011)

Hello

Thanks everyone, I will check out all those items today and report back. I will pick up some starting gel for my friend in case we have to wait a few days for a new ignitor. 175 watts for the ignitor is very low. I bet a 200 watt igniter would work so much better.

J-Takeman said "A bad igniter could read â€œ0â€ for open or â€œOLâ€ for shorts. Also some bad ones could read high(usually will blow the fuse) or some could read low(weak and probably only half will get hot). If it doesnâ€™t read the proper value(or darned close) toss it. "

I suspect this igniter to be weak since it does smoke the pellets. Oh well I will see.


I am guessing it should read about 50 ohms

Since P = V x I

I = P/V so 175 Watts /120 Volts = 1.458 amps

Therefore

R = V / I

So

120 Volts / 1.458 amps = 82 ohms to be more exact

Is that right?


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## ChandlerR (Dec 23, 2011)

I've been enjoying this thread!  Even though I have no real issue with my stove, I think I will bring my burn pot into work and TIG the top row of holes.  Can't see a downside to that.

SWNH, the burn pot sits in it's own sealed chamber. If the bottom of the pot had holes in it, the ask wouldn't fall to the ash pan, it would stay in that little chamber.

I agree that this is a nice stove to work on.....not the best design, but it works well for me.  Keep the tips coming and Merry Christmas and Happy Hanukkah!

Chan


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## DexterDay (Dec 23, 2011)

CWR said:
			
		

> I've been enjoying this thread!  Even though I have no real issue with my stove, I think I will bring my burn pot into work and TIG the top row of holes.  Can't see a downside to that.
> 
> SWNH, the burn pot sits in it's own sealed chamber. If the bottom of the pot had holes in it, the ask wouldn't fall to the ash pan, it would stay in that little chamber.
> 
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Your stove will be like night and day once you do that to the burn pot.

My suggestion would be to use High Temp 3M tape on the "non fire side" of the pot (outside) and cover just 1 row 1st, then try the 2nd row later. Once you get it fine tuned, then tig weld it.

Your stove will no longer build up pellets in tue pot. My buddy (barnyard840x) can run his Baby for 2 weeks without touching it. Before he couldnt go 24 hours without emptying or stirring the pot.

More airflow = Better combustion. Your ash will be a much, much lighter color. The firebox will be grey instead of black and the damper will actually have to be used to some effect (depends how many holes get covered). 

Or just buy the Cast Pellet Pot. My buddy intends to do that soon. 

Let us know how much better the burn is CWR.  And like I said, do something less permanent 1st to test. High temp tape worked well for him. For over 2 weeks before we welded. Just to make sure.


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## Don2222 (Dec 23, 2011)

DexterDay said:
			
		

> Yes Don. You are correct. The switch is almost on the blower itself. You can jumper it, to bypass. But dont leave it like that. Only do it to troubleshoot and find your problem.
> 
> The snap disc may be loose, or it could be bad all together. Either way, dont leave it jumpered (Not safe).



Hi Dexter

Well if the Low Limit (Proof of Fire) snap disk mounted on the exhaust is jumpered out the stove will keep running because the switch connection will be closed.
Note: POF is a normally open switch but closes at 140 degrees F and stays closed above that temp.

So if the POF is jumpered out it will not open up again when the stove is turned off.

I believe the exhaust blower and convection blower may not shut down properly after the stove cools down.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 23, 2011)

Don2222 said:
			
		

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Don the igniter gets shut off by a timer as well as the POF, otherwise it would run during normal operation.


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## Don2222 (Dec 23, 2011)

Hello

Just found a thread on how long the Magnum Baby Countrside Igniter usually lasts!!

See Auto Igniter
http://magnumheatforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=1303


Auto Igniter Problem

Postby kyle_7659 on Wed Nov 30, 2011 4:44 pm

My stove would not auto-ignite last night! I have a baby countryside that is on its 4th winter, and I was wondering if the igniter is a part that wears out, or if I have some other issue. The pot will continue to fill with pellets during the start up cycle, so this is the only thing that I can think of. If igniters wear out, what is the typical life of one?
Thanks.

Re: Auto Igniter Solution

Postby magicmike on Thu Dec 01, 2011 11:48 am

The life expectancy of an igniter is based on how many times a day it is used, if the firepot is kept clean, if the grounding and polarity of the electrical circuit is correct. Getting 4 years out of an igniter is fantastic. Typically 2-3 years would be average.

To test, get out your voltage meter and test to see if full voltage is going to the igniter. If it is, then the igniter is probably toast. You can check the condition of the igniter by using an Ohm meter and test for resistance. If there is none, it is bad. You can order a replacement igniter onliner off of the ECOM store at http://www.magnumheat.com.

Manual
BC-Igniter 
Magnum Baby Countryside Auto-Light system, complete assembly 
Price $125

Web Site  https://www.americanenergysystems.com/electricalcomponents.cfm
BC2500     Auto Ignition System, Complete Kit
Models: MagnuM Baby Countryside AC, MagnuM Baby Countryside DC, MagnuM Winchester AC, MagnuM Winchester AC Fireplace Insert, MagnuM Winchester DC, MagnuM Winchester DC Fireplace Insert     $87.00 

Or

RP2009     Auto Igniter, Replacement
Models: MagnuM Baby Countryside AC, MagnuM Baby Countryside DC, MagnuM Winchester AC, MagnuM Winchester AC Fireplace Insert, MagnuM Winchester DC, MagnuM Winchester DC Fireplace Insert     $64.00


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## Don2222 (Dec 23, 2011)

Hello

Thanks Smokey, yes that is right most igniters are on an approx 10 or 15 min timer

Also I wanted to address the Red Wire not connected in this thread that there was no answer for.
Magnum Baby Countryside Installed and Running
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/83873/P22/

There is one on this stove too. It could be for the optional Pot Stirrer Motor for corn but it was NOT!
This stove does not have an ignitor so the Red & White Wires laying there are for an ignitor.
There is a dummy under the pot that looks like an igniter and feels like an igniter but no wires coming out the back of it!!


Does anyone else have a red wire not clipped on to anything on the right side of their stove?


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## ChandlerR (Dec 23, 2011)

Dexter...that's a good idea. Where can I get the tape, Home Depot?  It sounds like high temp duct tape (Not duct tape, duct tape) it's aluminum, right?

Chan


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## DexterDay (Dec 23, 2011)

CWR said:
			
		

> Dexter...that's a good idea. Where can I get the tape, Home Depot?  It sounds like high temp duct tape (Not duct tape, duct tape) it's aluminum, right?
> 
> Chan



Yep. Aluminum High Temp tape. Most hardware stores carry it. The stuff I have is made by 3M. But there are others out there.

Just to be sure you dont over do it. Better to test to see if you like the results. Im sure your gonna like not messing with the pot. My buddies burns about as good as my Quadrafire. As far as the flame, ash color, and burn, its 100 times better than it was before. And not having to deal with an overflowing pot is nice. I dont know how he put up with it. He finally took my advise after a few weeks. He has never been happier.


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## SWNH (Dec 23, 2011)

CWR said:
			
		

> SWNH, the burn pot sits in it's own sealed chamber. If the bottom of the pot had holes in it, the ask wouldn't fall to the ash pan, it would stay in that little chamber.
> 
> Chan




I was talking about that "little chamber". If *THAT* had an open bottom, ashes from the perforated fire POT would just drop in the ash PAN.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 23, 2011)

SWNH said:
			
		

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Ayuh, and that's what I say about my stove as well.


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## jrsdws (Dec 23, 2011)

SWNH said:
			
		

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If that little chamber had an open bottom, though, you'd draw air from everywhere but through the burn pot where you need it.  The chamber that the pot sits in forces the combustion air through the holes in the burn pot, thus giving you the good, complete burn.


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## Don2222 (Dec 23, 2011)

Hello

Well I finally got the stove running today!!

There is no Real Ignitor, just a Dummy!!

So the problem was a Bad POF Proof of Fire or Low Limit 140 Degree F switch on the exhaust blower housing. To prove it I made a little jumper wire with male clips on each end and bypassed the switch.

Sure enough, after starting the fire the auger did not stop and it kept on going! Dexter you guessed right!

But this time the Fire was HOPPING !! She said what are those sparks flying around?? She never saw those before!! I said that is how it should work!! Also there is more heat coming out of the heat exchanger!!

See old and new ash pan gasket pics and the Culprit POF switch below
Click to enlarge.


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## ChandlerR (Dec 23, 2011)

Great news Don!  Glad you guys got it working well.  I had a high limit switch go on mine last year...Bought a new one from Graingers. I wish I had read your first post more carefully. I have the dummy ignitor....That also explains the red wires, right?

I taped the top holes on my burn pot but I've only been able to run it on low so far. It's 36 out but the stove on low keeps the house way above 70 and DW doesn't like to be too hot 


Chan


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 23, 2011)

Don see if you can find a source for a ceramic pof, they usually put those whatever ones to shame.


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## Don2222 (Dec 23, 2011)

CWR said:
			
		

> Great news Don!  Glad you guys got it working well.  I had a high limit switch go on mine last year...Bought a new one from Graingers. I wish I had read your first post more carefully. I have the dummy ignitor....That also explains the red wires, right?
> 
> I taped the top holes on my burn pot but I've only been able to run it on low so far. It's 36 out but the stove on low keeps the house way above 70 and DW doesn't like to be too hot
> 
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Yes Chan, that really explains the red and white wires. In fact you may want to install your own igniter  yourself for short money!

Now that we know it is 175 watts and Scott's Ignitor heaven for $21.00 then you can through away all your starting fluids!!

Igniter Heaven
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/78371/


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## Don2222 (Dec 23, 2011)

CWR said:
			
		

> Great news Don!  Glad you guys got it working well.  I had a high limit switch go on mine last year...Bought a new one from Graingers. I wish I had read your first post more carefully. I have the dummy ignitor....That also explains the red wires, right?
> 
> I taped the top holes on my burn pot but I've only been able to run it on low so far. It's 36 out but the stove on low keeps the house way above 70 and DW doesn't like to be too hot
> 
> ...



Hi Chan

Did you do the dollar bill test on your ash pan gasket? The one on this stove was so bad it would fail the Buffalo Nickel test 

The new gasket in the pic above works Fantastic!!


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## Don2222 (Dec 23, 2011)

SWNH said:
			
		

> Don2222 said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I tried pressing the Auger Trim Button on this stove today. I saw nothing on the control panel to indicate any change?
Am I doing something wrong? Should the heat setting be on 1 when I do this?


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## jrsdws (Dec 23, 2011)

Yes...manual mode with heat setting on 1.  Press the auger trim button and adjust to your desired level:  5=high, 4=low, 1 (or no extra light)=normal.

When you adjust heat setting higher...or thermo calls for heat and stove ramps up this "extra light" will go out.


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## DexterDay (Dec 24, 2011)

I bet its burning better than ever...... Good job Don. Your a good Man. 

I helped a couple that asked for help about a month and a half ago. There Santa Fe insert was plugged completely. Just got a Christmas Card today in the mail. Had a $50 Gift card in it. Very nice people and didnt expect anything from them.

Feels good to help someone out. Good Deed done.


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## ChandlerR (Dec 24, 2011)

Don2222 said:
			
		

> CWR said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Don, I did and it's fine...however, I found that ash and debris tend to land at the hinge of the door and when you shut the door, the ash holds the door away from the stove, letting air in.  Just a quick wipe of the gasket on the bottom of the door keeps things clean..  Thanks for the reminder!


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## Don2222 (Dec 24, 2011)

jrsdws said:
			
		

> Yes...manual mode with heat setting on 1.  Press the auger trim button and adjust to your desired level:  5=high, 4=low, 1 (or no extra light)=normal.
> 
> When you adjust heat setting higher...or thermo calls for heat and stove ramps up this "extra light" will go out.



Thanks for the info I will try that when I go back with the new low limit switch.


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## ChandlerR (Dec 24, 2011)

DexterDay said:
			
		

> CWR said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Dexter...well, 24 hours burning with the top two rows of holes plugged and I can see a huge difference.  The flame is a bit more active but the amount of ash in the burn pot has dramatically dropped.  I'm firing up the TIG welder next week for sure. I'm going to do a little metal straightening on the flanges of the burn pot while I'm at it.  I may add some stainless to the open corners.

Thanks for the tip...I always thought mine burned well...until I did the mod.

Merry Christmas everyone!

Chan


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## Don2222 (Jan 7, 2012)

Hello

Well, I put the Low Limit switch in and wow, it runs great!

The foil with holes on the air wash and new ash pan gasket really makes the flame lively and a few sparks fly!! After it was on Level 3 for a few mins the temp read 204 Degrees F coming out of the heat tubes!! My friend is very happy now!!

Thanks everyone. Happy New Year!!


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## ChandlerR (Jan 7, 2012)

Great news Don! I finally bent to the pressure and welded up the top two rows of holes in my burn pot. It made a big difference in the amount of ash that builds up in the pot.  Happy New Year to you too!

Chan


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## DexterDay (Jan 7, 2012)

CWR said:
			
		

> Great news Don! I finally bent to the pressure and welded up the top two rows of holes in my burn pot. It made a big difference in the amount of ash that builds up in the pot.  Happy New Year to you too!
> 
> Chan



Glad to see it worked for you Chan.. My buddies exhaust vent was so black and sooty until he did that modification. Now its a nice grey ash throughout the entire system. Not having to worry about the burnpot overflowing is priceless.

The Baby is a great stove, when you give it what it wants/needs (air)..


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 7, 2012)

There are a large number of stoves that suffer from air issues that once solved burn for long periods without build up.

Makes one wonder who is actually doing qc.   My bet is no one.


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## ChandlerR (Jan 7, 2012)

I look at other stoves and see that you can open the damper and literally blow (suck) the pellets out of the burn pot. No so with the Baby. They offer a higher capacity exhaust blower that they call a high altitude blower. You can buy the fan blade or the whole assembly.  I was thinking of that at some point although I really don't need it. The other thing they offer is a cast iron burn pot.  From what I understand is it has holes on the bottom and a couple on the front side to keep the flame from leaning toward the glass.

I'll see if it's any cleaner when I do my weekly cleaning tomorrow.  I don't think the stove will be running later today. Its supposed to be in the 50's today!


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## barnyard840x (Jan 7, 2012)

Don,glad to hear that dexters helping you.he knows his stuff.done know if it was mentioned but theres a couple diff ways I burn my baby on level one. First way,I set the auger  trim to the lowest setting with the fan on default setting(low) the 2nd way i run mine is the auger trim set to default,but I turn the fan up to high. This is a good way to make sure your air and feed rate are correct.if the pellet feed rate is too low then it burns down too far.if theres not enough air coming through the damper it will leave black unburnt pellets in the pot.adjust draft as needed. I run mine in a combo of its on level one.the 2 ways i told you,then sometimes I turn the auger trim to lowest setting with the fan on highest setting.you shouldn't have a problem burning on any of the combinations of setting I listed. I'm the guy who started the whole baby burn pot mods,though it was dexters idea to try. Good luck with the baby.its a good stove once you tinker with it a bit. I love my stove and I get great air temps from the heat exchangers now that I modified the ol girl


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## DexterDay (Jan 7, 2012)

barnyard840x said:
			
		

> Don,glad to hear that dexters helping you.he knows his stuff.done know if it was mentioned but theres a couple diff ways I burn my baby on level one. First way,I set the auger  trim to the lowest setting with the fan on default setting(low) the 2nd way i run mine is the auger trim set to default,but I turn the fan up to high. This is a good way to make sure your air and feed rate are correct.if the pellet feed rate is too low then it burns down too far.if theres not enough air coming through the damper it will leave black unburnt pellets in the pot.adjust draft as needed. I run mine in a combo of its on level one.the 2 ways i told you,then sometimes I turn the auger trim to lowest setting with the fan on highest setting.you shouldn't have a problem burning on any of the combinations of setting I listed. I'm the guy who started the whole baby burn pot mods,though it was dexters idea to try. Good luck with the baby.its a good stove once you tinker with it a bit. I love my stove and I get great air temps from the heat exchangers now that I modified the ol girl



Welcome back buddy.... Hope you guys are enjoying yourself down in Cinci... Gonna swing by today after work and fill the hopper for ya...

Barnyards stove is night and day since the mod we did.. Great little stove. Super simple to run and clean.


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## barnyard840x (Jan 7, 2012)

Love the New pic of the farenheight! Glad ya got her burning at optimal performance.thanks again for the help.I owe ya one.


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## Don2222 (Jan 7, 2012)

barnyard840x said:
			
		

> Don,glad to hear that dexters helping you.he knows his stuff.done know if it was mentioned but theres a couple diff ways I burn my baby on level one. First way,I set the auger  trim to the lowest setting with the fan on default setting(low) the 2nd way i run mine is the auger trim set to default,but I turn the fan up to high. This is a good way to make sure your air and feed rate are correct.if the pellet feed rate is too low then it burns down too far.if theres not enough air coming through the damper it will leave black unburnt pellets in the pot.adjust draft as needed. I run mine in a combo of its on level one.the 2 ways i told you,then sometimes I turn the auger trim to lowest setting with the fan on highest setting.you shouldn't have a problem burning on any of the combinations of setting I listed. I'm the guy who started the whole baby burn pot mods,though it was dexters idea to try. Good luck with the baby.its a good stove once you tinker with it a bit. I love my stove and I get great air temps from the heat exchangers now that I modified the ol girl



Hi barnyard

I just got it going yesterday on heat setting 3. After a while I measured the Air Temp right in front of the heat exchanger tubes and got 204 Degrees F using my IR gun. This is using the Wood Pellet burn pot and the foil with 5 holes over the air wash slit and a brand new door and ash pan gasket!

Is 204 Deg F good for heat setting 3 running Maine's Choice wood pellets??

*Can any of you guys please tell me what you are getting?*


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## barnyard840x (Jan 7, 2012)

Good to hear Don,your readings are pretty closeto mine. Although I measure from inside my 3rd bottom tube from the right side of the stove.(door handle side) on level 3 from inside the tube,my probe reads around 265 when dirty and 278-280 when clean. I can also raise or lower the temps by tweaking with the draft. I run my stove from the thermostat and am very happy with it.I have the corn pot in mine from the factory.thats why I was forced to tinker with it and weld my top 2 rows of holes in the pot. At the time I didn't know there were 2 different pots for the baby. I also replaced all my gaskets this spring and modified the hopper lid plate because hopppers would never seal because of the way the tabs that hold the lid on overlap the gasket surface. It didn't really affect the stove but I always had fines blowing out of the trivet  plate. Glad to hear you got it running right.the owners will come to love it. Pm me if you ever have any questions or want to pick my brain


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## jrsdws (Jan 7, 2012)

Guys I bought the cast iron pellet only pot for my Baby and it's awesome.  I don't have anything to measure temps at the tubes on her yet, but on heat level three burning ProPellets my little magnetic thermometer stuck to the front in the upper right hand corner gets a little over 300 degrees.....probably not the most accurate but hotter than I got with the modified corn pot.

It takes longer to get a good bed of coals and the cast iron sucks up a lot of heat on start up, but when she's reached temp it really burns well.

If it'd help anybody with mods, I can take pictures of the cast iron pot and email or post them?


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## DexterDay (Jan 7, 2012)

jrsdws said:
			
		

> Guys I bought the cast iron pellet only pot for my Baby and it's awesome.  I don't have anything to measure temps at the tubes on her yet, but on heat level three burning ProPellets my little magnetic thermometer stuck to the front in the upper right hand corner gets a little over 300 degrees.....probably not the most accurate but hotter than I got with the modified corn pot.
> 
> It takes longer to get a good bed of coals and the cast iron sucks up a lot of heat on start up, but when she's reached temp it really burns well.
> 
> If it'd help anybody with mods, I can take pictures of the cast iron pot and email or post them?



Pics.. Please. Love pics.... Barnyard should look into getting one. The way cast holds heat, it should promote better combustion (without a mod).


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## ChandlerR (Jan 7, 2012)

Yes please on the pictures! We looove pictures!  My discharge temps are now 140 degrees, up from 125 with the burn pot mod....and that's on low!  The stove is off now but when I restart it, I'm going to run it on high for a half hour and see what the temps are.

Chan


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## barnyard840x (Jan 7, 2012)

Chan,I haven't measured air temps on level 5 but i know my stove temp was up to over 700 degrees on my magnetic thermometer.that was after 45 mins on high.I have never had to run mine above 3after I moded my burn pot. Still want the cast pot so I can play with that too


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## ChandlerR (Jan 7, 2012)

Holy crap!  That's pretty darned hot.....I would be happy with half that!

Chan


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## DexterDay (Jan 7, 2012)

CWR said:
			
		

> Holy crap!  That's pretty darned hot.....I would be happy with half that!
> 
> Chan



The 700* is not convection temps.

Thats a magnetic thermometer on the steel body of the stove. Not air temps.. His air temp set-up is pretty nice. The probe is centered in that 3rd tube pretty good. Sits inside it, just a little bit and centered in the tube, away from steel.

Seeing high temps on the body isnt uncommon. Especially boxs that have steel close to the fire. 

Im impressed with the heat the he gets out of his Baby (barnyard) He never needs more than level 3. And most times, less than that. 

Im interested in seeing this cast pot and I dont own a Baby...


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## jrsdws (Jan 7, 2012)

Magnum Baby Cast Iron Pellet Pot

All holes are basically 0.200" diameter....maybe up to 0.015" smaller through some parts of the radius/bottom of pot.


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## ChandlerR (Jan 7, 2012)

Looking at the pot, I see a tighter concentration of holes at the bottom, less at the back (where the igniter is) and more on the front which would keep the flame from leaning toward the glass. The purpose being to maximize the airflow through the pellets for best burn.  I also like the thickness of the lip and I love the fact that there are no open corners like on the stainless pot.  I can see where it would work better. I may have to buy one. How much did you pay? They were around $100, right?

Chan


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## jrsdws (Jan 7, 2012)

Total with shipping $114.  Shipping is flat rate I believe.  They also have the stainless pellet only pot for about $87 plus shipping.  I didn't see any reason to not go to the cast for $12 more.


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## ChandlerR (Jan 7, 2012)

I agree that's the way to go.  I may have to get one.  Thanks for the pictures!

Chan


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## DexterDay (Jan 7, 2012)

jrsdws said:
			
		

> Total with shipping $114.  Shipping is flat rate I believe.  They also have the stainless pellet only pot for about $87 plus shipping.  I didn't see any reason to not go to the cast for $12 more.



Thats a good looking pot for sure. Air in the bottom where its needed.

 Standing in front of my buddies now (barnyard840x)  Hopper was still just over half full in 24 hrs. Amazing.... Level 1 trim on its lowest position.


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## ChandlerR (Jan 7, 2012)

Dexter, that's about right. On setting 4, running off the thermostat, I use a bag a day. On warm days when the stove puts along on setting1, 1/2 a bag.  It's all in the BTU's.


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## barnyard840x (Jan 7, 2012)

Don, did you get that straight from magnums website? I didn't see it there. Can you send me the info on it? Cuz I think I just fell in love! .275" thick? Thats a pellet pot there Thanks for the help Don. Think I'm investing in it ASAP!


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## Czech (Jan 7, 2012)

I believe the cast pot is #BC2650. Couple other parts of interest: High Output comb fan blade is #MF3614. The two speed high output comb fan (whole thing) is #MF3650.


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## Don2222 (Jan 7, 2012)

CWR said:
			
		

> Yes please on the pictures! We looove pictures!  My discharge temps are now 140 degrees, up from 125 with the burn pot mod....and that's on low!  The stove is off now but when I restart it, I'm going to run it on high for a half hour and see what the temps are.
> 
> Chan



Hi Chan

Please let me know what your temps are on Level 3 also.

Thanks


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## jrsdws (Jan 7, 2012)

Here's the link to purchase the burn pots:   https://www.americanenergysystems.com/firepots.cfm

It is the BC2650.

I looked everywhere and couldn't find anywhere else to purchase. Only other options might be a dealer.  



			
				Czech said:
			
		

> I believe the cast pot is #BC2650. Couple other parts of interest: High Output comb fan blade is #MF3614. The two speed high output comb fan (whole thing) is #MF3650.



This I'm not too sure about.  The #MF3650 is listed as the upgraded two speed exhaust blower for the Magnum Furnace and the Magnum Winchester AC.  One might want to double check with AES before ordering to be sure?  

Also there are different high output exhaust fan blades available that fit the Baby depending on shaft size.

I here these make a big difference too.  Thanks for pointing that out Czech!!


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## barnyard840x (Jan 8, 2012)

Thanks for the info. Will be investing in the cast pot very soon


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## ChandlerR (Jan 8, 2012)

Don, ok, I fired the stove and set the thermostat at 70.  It went to 3 and stayed on that setting for 20 minutes until the thermostat was satisfied. I have my thermocouple on the lower right hand tube. It read 252 degrees.  That's a good 20 degrees hotter than with my unmodified burn pot. It's on low now and reading 140.  Not bad!  I'll be interested to see what the temps are with the cast iron pot....(Assuming I buy it)

Chan


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## barnyard840x (Jan 8, 2012)

Chan, those readings are pretty close to mine. I get around 265 when dirty and up to 280 when I clean my stove. Semester was at my house today he sent me a pic of my digital temp probe and it was reading 165 degrees on level 1 with the auger trim and fan on lowest setting.if you tinker with the draft a lil can raise or lower those temps by up to 20 degrees. Close the damper to raise temps and open it to lower the temps. Close it until you get a lazy flame then one it back up just a smidge. Cant believe you never tried the mods I told you about last season. I knew you would love the results yo got. Did you drill out the bottom holes like I did or just ply the top holes? That may be the difference in our readings. I took and drilled out every other hole on the very bottom of the pot to promote more air flow through the bottom holes. This helped with my coal bed, the coals burn much hotter now that I drilled them out.think it was  3/32nd drill bit,will check the size of the holes when I get back home for you if youre interested in doing the complete mod.


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## ChandlerR (Jan 8, 2012)

Barnyard...I did not drill out the bottom holes.....yet.  I figured one mod at a time.  Let me know what the hole size is and I may attempt it before I get the other pot.  I really had no issues with the stove other than a every other day burn pot dump. I've now extended that to three, maybe four days so that's a pretty good improvement.  I may re-drill a couple holes in the front to push the flame away from the glass a tad.  My glass used to stay very clean and now it's a bit dirtier...not much but noticeable.

Chan


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## Don2222 (Jan 8, 2012)

CWR said:
			
		

> Don, ok, I fired the stove and set the thermostat at 70.  It went to 3 and stayed on that setting for 20 minutes until the thermostat was satisfied. I have my thermocouple on the lower right hand tube. It read 252 degrees.  That's a good 20 degrees hotter than with my unmodified burn pot. It's on low now and reading 140.  Not bad!  I'll be interested to see what the temps are with the cast iron pot....(Assuming I buy it)
> 
> Chan



Thanks Chan

Did u put the High Temp foil over the air wash slit with 5 holes punched from a screw driver? That may make the temps higher. I got the High temp foil at Home Depot for $15


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## Czech (Jan 8, 2012)

The part numbers I posted are direct from Duane at AES fyi specific to my Baby. I installed and have been running the two speed fan, it helped with the burn problems. I cannot use the cast pot (darn it!) as my model is a bit different, it has the pot without sides. The cradle has holes in the sides, I plugged those some time ago. Stove has been running good except high temp cutouts where the comb fan stops, Duane and I are trouble shooting that this weekend. Currently the stove is running with the pof snap jumped to see if that is bad or the thermal protector on the motor is tripping, it works up to 3, 4 or 5 eventually trips it. Nice weather to be testing I guess!


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## ChandlerR (Jan 8, 2012)

Don, no I left it as it was.  I was afraid if I restricted the airflow there, my window would get dirty real quick.  I also noticed that the burn pot in the picture is different than mine.  I'll take a picture of mine when I clean the stove tomorrow.  I do not have a continuos lip around the pot.  Do you know what year that stove is?  Mine is a 2005, I believe.

Czech, do you know what year yours is?  They made some substantial changes year to year.

Chan


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## barnyard840x (Jan 8, 2012)

Yes I'm intrigued  by that pot also.take pics of the pot if you could. My baby is a 2006 model and I would really like to know if the pot will fit before I invest in it.


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## ChandlerR (Jan 8, 2012)

Will do. I'll post it tomorrow evening 

Chan


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## Don2222 (Jan 8, 2012)

CWR said:
			
		

> Don, no I left it as it was.  I was afraid if I restricted the airflow there, my window would get dirty real quick.  I also noticed that the burn pot in the picture is different than mine.  I'll take a picture of mine when I clean the stove tomorrow.  I do not have a continuos lip around the pot.  Do you know what year that stove is?  Mine is a 2005, I believe.
> 
> Czech, do you know what year yours is?  They made some substantial changes year to year.
> 
> Chan



Hi Chan

I am guessing it is 2006 or 07 but not exactly sure.

If you do not have that continuous lip then maybe you do not really need the air wash modification.
The modification on the Magnum forum site says that on some baby countryside stoves too much air was going thru the air wash and not into the burn pot causing a lazy fire.


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## Czech (Jan 8, 2012)

CWR said:
			
		

> Czech, do you know what year yours is?  They made some substantial changes year to year.
> 
> Chan




Mine is June 2005. Here's the two pots, corn on the left, pellet on the right. They snap into the cradle.


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## ChandlerR (Jan 8, 2012)

Wow! Czech, yours is WAY different than mine or Dons.  I have never seen one like that.  It's a Baby?  Don, I saw that on the AES forum. I guess it would be a simple matter to just pop some tape of the slot, punch a couple of holes in it and see what happens.

Chan


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## Czech (Jan 8, 2012)

CWR said:
			
		

> Wow! Czech, yours is WAY different than mine or Dons.  I have never seen one like that.  It's a Baby?  Don, I saw that on the AES forum. I guess it would be a simple matter to just pop some tape of the slot, punch a couple of holes in it and see what happens.
> 
> Chan



At least that's who answered the phone when I called the number on the back! I did confirm that it is the thermal cutout on the comb fan that is giving me trouble, so if anyone is looking at upgrading to the two speed that I posted you may want to wait until I figure this out.


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## Don2222 (Jan 8, 2012)

Hello

By the way, do either of you guys take the Lo Limit Switch out of the exhaust housing once in a while to clean it?

If the one I replaced was kept clean, then maybe it would still be good. It had a mound of ash on it which may have kept it from closing and made the auger stop running


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## ChandlerR (Jan 8, 2012)

Don, I haven't taken it out since I replaced mine.  The switch should be sealed so the soot shouldn't affect it.  The switch I replaced tested good on the bench but when it had a load attached to it, it didn't work.  I got mine from Graingers too.

Chan


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## Don2222 (Jan 8, 2012)

CWR said:
			
		

> Don, I haven't taken it out since I replaced mine.  The switch should be sealed so the soot shouldn't affect it.  The switch I replaced tested good on the bench but when it had a load attached to it, it didn't work.  I got mine from Graingers too.
> 
> Chan



Yes, I agree the switch is sealed and not effected, but the outside metal must heat up so the switch will close. Ash acts like insulation and if there is alot on the outside metal then the temp of the switch may not sense the heat as quickly. I think I will try taking the one out of my pelpro and see how dirty it is.


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## ChandlerR (Jan 8, 2012)

That's true. I misunderstood you  I would be interested in seeing how much higher the temp has to get before the switch closes when it's covered with ash.


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## Don2222 (Jan 8, 2012)

CWR said:
			
		

> That's true. I misunderstood you  I would be interested in seeing how much higher the temp has to get before the switch closes when it's covered with ash.



Yes, me too. Maybe the difference would not be great but if the ash is like really caked it could make a difference. Not sure how we could test that. Do you have one of those heat guns for shrink tubing?


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## ChandlerR (Jan 8, 2012)

Ok, here are a couple of pictures of my burn pot.  Dexter, while I had it out today, I drilled out the two bottom most rows. I see a definate improvement. I have it shut down again and I'll drill out the third row.

Now, it looks like there is creosote in my pot but it is just wet ash. I rinse it off in the sink. Boy does it show up with the camera! Notice the gaps at the corners.

If you notice the temps on the last picture, that is on setting 3 after 20 minutes of running.

Don, yes, I have a heat shrink gun...


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## Don2222 (Jan 9, 2012)

CWR said:
			
		

> Ok, here are a couple of pictures of my burn pot.  Dexter, while I had it out today, I drilled out the two bottom most rows. I see a definate improvement. I have it shut down again and I'll drill out the third row.
> 
> Now, it looks like there is creosote in my pot but it is just wet ash. I rinse it off in the sink. Boy does it show up with the camera! Notice the gaps at the corners.
> 
> ...


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## ChandlerR (Jan 9, 2012)

Don, on my next deep cleaning I'll pull the switch off and play with it.  I'm thinking there will be a difference but I'm guessing it won't be huge and it may be the same, just might take a little more time before it trips.  It will be interesting to see.

Chan


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## Don2222 (Oct 9, 2012)

jrsdws said:


> Yep that's the right pot....I actually just modded mine with foil tape on the outside of the pot and smeared some high temp gasket adhesive along the joint....cheap and easy and easily reversed if I want to burn corn. I'm running the jumper on 1-2 for pellets. I think I found out about the jumper settings on one of my many google searches
> 
> Glad you got it going


 

Hello
I am replacing a control panel on another friends Magnum BabyCountryside AC that had a hopper fire. The xformer on the board must be shot because no power and the fuse is good!
See > > https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...side-ac-hopper-fire-a-bad-one-question.90845/
The new board has the jumper set to 3 & 4 so I will move it to pins 1 & 2. The Magnum TSB also says it will work better with wood pellets on 1 & 2.

See AES Technical Bulletin # T-0009 Date of Issue 01/12/2006, Update July 2008
http://www.americanenergysystems.com/Stock/LibraryFiles/T-0009TechBPlacementofTri-ModeModuleChip_TMC_.pdf

TSB above States:
The TMC needs to be placed over the 1 & 2 pins for the MagnuM Baby Countryside models (BC-AC & BC-DC, factory default setting for wood pellets) if you are burning wood pellets only and need a little more heat.

TMC = The Tri-Mode Module chip is located on the top left side of the control board (looking at the board from the back.)


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## Don2222 (Jun 6, 2013)

Hey Guys

I have the new upgraded Stainless Steel Wood pellet pots for the Baby CountrySide. Looks like they seal good also!


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## smwilliamson (Jun 7, 2013)

pteubel said:


> This morning, I ordered a new pellet-only firepot from AES. Since their delivery times are very slow (it's been 2 hrs since I ordered and it's not here yet... :ahhh: )


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## brown352 (Jan 19, 2014)

Can anyone make a suggestion.  We have a Baby Countryside, we've cleaned it, and cleaned it again, cleaned the exhaust, cleaned everything we can clean, and it's still not burning correctly.  The auger keeps dumping pellets into the pot, and it eventually burns out because there are so many pellets.  The auger is dumping pellets about 7 times a minute.


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## brown352 (Jan 19, 2014)

I forgot, we are using the pellet pot, and not the corn pot.


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## GMadd (Nov 2, 2014)

Don2222 said:


> Thanks Dexter for these links.
> 
> Magnum Baby Countryside Installed and Running
> https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/83873/P22/
> ...




Seems like the air wash mod link is outdated.  Anybody have info on this?    Thanks.


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