# New saw break in period?



## jason1238 (Feb 19, 2007)

Howdy all!

I've ordered my new saw, a Husky 359, and can't wait for it to get here!

I have done a lot of reading on these boards, and have seen some postings about break in runs for a saw, but haven't seen a whole thread dedicated to it yet.  What should you do when you first get your new saw?  Is it set up to run slightly rich out of the box, or do you have to do that yourself?  Run the mix alittle heavy on the oil for the first few tanks?  I've done this with other 2 strokes in the past and had great success.  (I'm talkin' an extra half ounce of oil per gallon, run a gallon, change the plug, and normal mix from there) 

I know there'll probably be those who bash me for not buying directly from a dealer, but I also know that many folks out there like me have purchased saws online, so to you I ask...whaddaya' do?

Jason


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## Roospike (Feb 19, 2007)

The Husqvarna 359 is set rich form the factory. 

I run all my chainsaws 40:1 fuel / oil mix synthetic but the first few 2 1/2 gallon jugs of gas i use in a new saw i use regular saw oil mix at 40:1 to help sit the rings than after 5 gallons I'll go back to Mobil 1 synthetic oil.

Break in peroid is around 10 tank of gas through the saw ( 10 saw tanks ,not gallon tanks) After 10 tanks of fuel is when i set the carb and tach it to 500 RMP under the saws MAX RPM.

[ Max RPM is 13,500 * Break-in around 12,500 ~ 12,700 RMP * Set after break-in 13,000 RMP } 

After 10 tanks of fuel is also the time to mod your muffler if your doing so and make sure to tach it and set the carb AFTER the muffler mod. ( adds about 15%-20% power )

Keep checking your plug in the break in period for any kind of build up to keep tabs on her. 

Keep your chain sharp so you are cutting chips and not saw dust and keep your air filter clean and its a good idea to flip your bar over every time you put a different chain on.


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## Roospike (Feb 19, 2007)

This is the synthetic oil i use in my chainsaws if anybody is curious. I find mine at Autozone auto part stores.


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## jason1238 (Feb 19, 2007)

Thanks Roospike, great info...

Do you have a dealertach the saw for you, or do you do it yourself?  If you do, what type of setup do you use?

I have a dealer about 15 miles or so away, but I'd rather be able to do it myself.  I'm pretty good around the garage, and I'd like to learn.  I don't like to pay someone to do something if I am perfectly capable of doing it myself.  (You can call me a tight-a$$, and I'm OK with that ;-) )

I've never had much luck with the service industry (car dealers, HVAC service, appliance repair), so I try not to rely on them.  Sorry if that offends anyone, it's just me...

Jason


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## Roospike (Feb 19, 2007)

jason1238 said:
			
		

> Thanks Roospike, great info...
> 
> Do you have a dealerthe saw for you, or do you do it yourself? If you do, what type of setup do you use?
> 
> ...



Not a problem , I'm that wat too . 

You'll need a tach that can read to high RPMs . I use TECH-TACH TT-20K Its wire AND wireless hook up with memory recall. It also runs off of a 9 volt replacement battery Some of the other small tachs have a non replaceable battery so when the battery dies so does the tach.

I tach all my chainsaws when new , after break in and in the summer then the winter so after break in you'll use it at least twice a year . ( plus charge your friends a 6 pack to have there saw tached ;-) ) This tach will do all gas engines so your not limited to the chainsaw.
About 3 trips to the dealer would of payed for this tach if you want to look at it that way.

* TECH-TACH TT-20K Part Number: DTI-110 Tech-Tach TT-20K, for gas engines*
http://www.tinytach.com/design/handheld.php


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## Corey (Feb 20, 2007)

Roospike said:
			
		

> After 10 tanks of fuel is also the time to mod your muffler if your doing so and make sure to tach it and set the carb AFTER the muffler mod. ( adds about 15%-20% power )



Can you elaborate on this 'muffler mod'?  Does it work for the 350 as well? My saw runs pretty good now, but, heck, who wouldn't want 20% more power!

Corey


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## Roospike (Feb 20, 2007)

Is your 350 an E-tech with a cat muffler ?


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## Roospike (Feb 20, 2007)

With the cat muffler you can order the standard muffler or gut the cat screen and the muffler iner tubes.

The rule of thumb is 15%-20% gain in power and a cooler running saw.  Your standard mod is about 80% of the exhaust post for the muffler mod hole. Youcan go 90% with a tigher spark screen or less with no spark screen. I like to have the spark screen installed.

*Team Husqvarna*


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## Roospike (Feb 20, 2007)

359


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## Roospike (Feb 20, 2007)

346xp


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## Roospike (Feb 20, 2007)

372XP


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## Roospike (Feb 20, 2007)

372XP (#2 different style)


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## Roospike (Feb 20, 2007)

346XP ( 2002 model )


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## jason1238 (Feb 20, 2007)

Hey Roo, I'll have to get the details of that muffler mod for the 359 from you..._after_ the break in.  Temptation is easy to give in to! :cheese: 

Why would Husky not want a cooler/more powerful powerhead if it's possible?  In other words, why don't they do the mod and call it a design change?  An increase like that puts the saw up over 4.5hp, right?  Call me silly, but that sounds like an easy way to get more sales. 

Jason


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## Roospike (Feb 20, 2007)

jason1238 said:
			
		

> Hey Roo, I'll have to get the details of that muffler mod for the 359 from you..._after_ the break in. Temptation is easy to give in to! :cheese:
> 
> Why would Husky not want a cooler/more powerful powerhead if it's possible? In other words, why don't they do the mod and call it a design change? An increase like that puts the saw up over 4.5hp, right? Call me silly, but that sounds like an easy way to get more sales.
> 
> Jason



*EPA* that says it all. EPA works great when it come to wood stoves but for small engine chainsaws it works against them , chokes them and makes them run hotter , in turn less power and performance and a shorter life span.


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## Corey (Feb 20, 2007)

Roospike said:
			
		

> Is your 350 an E-tech with a cat muffler ?



No Etech and no cat muffler for me...my saw is probably an '02 model.  I had a look at the muffler and it looks to be just a steel box with a small (3/8 or maybe 7/16") port at the top.  This is the port that faces 'up' and has a little hood over it to direct the exhaust to the front of the saw.

Are you saying you actually drill a hole in the muffler and install a second spark screen?  One of those pics kind of looks like a homemade weld, a couple of others look like the screen has been tucked between a mounting bracket?

Corey


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## Roospike (Feb 20, 2007)

cozy heat for my feet said:
			
		

> Roospike said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



80% of your exhaust port .....drill a hole in the front this size (muffler and bracket), add a spark screen the width of the muffler mounting bolts to hold in place and you have a mod for your 350. 

The 359 was something new i was working on with a washer and used .035 wire for the weld vs .023 or tig , so yeah it looks bad homemade. I have a lot of scrap test parts before i come up with something i like and works well. The 359 mod is a really good design with the extra reinforcement in the front but yet to make a final mod for it. 

Dont forget to reset your carb and tach it after you mod the muffler as it will breath a lot different as for the need for the adjustment.


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## DiscoInferno (Feb 20, 2007)

Your saws sure are purty.  My 359 hasn't been that clean and shiny since pretty much the first cut!  I gave up trying to pick out all that bar oil/sawdust gunk.  

Is 2002 the last year of non-EPA restricted models?  I think that's when mine was bought.  It never has seen a dealer, since it was a gift I don't live near the original dealer.  I set the carb myself by ear (no tach) once when it started stalling a lot, other than that I've left it alone.  Which is to say, the saw is pretty tolerant of bad owners.


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## Roospike (Feb 20, 2007)

DiscoInferno said:
			
		

> Your saws sure are purty.  My 359 hasn't been that clean and shiny since pretty much the first cut!  I gave up trying to pick out all that bar oil/sawdust gunk.
> 
> Is 2002 the last year of non-EPA restricted models?  I think that's when mine was bought.  It never has seen a dealer, since it was a gift I don't live near the original dealer.  I set the carb myself by ear (no tach) once when it started stalling a lot, other than that I've left it alone.  Which is to say, the saw is pretty tolerant of bad owners.



I break down the saws every day after cutting and clean and then a final cleaning when put away for the summer. Get you a 2" or 3" paint brush to clean the junk off your saws when in use and works really well to clean the saw before adding gas and bar oil as well as your air inlets and air filter and filter box. 

All the saws are different with the EPA mufflers , some started early and some have yet to be touched. I can tach by ear to get by but sometimes just being off by 300-500 RPM lets you miss the "sweet spot" of where it should be. I said heck with it and made sure to buy the tach and chalked it up for another toy (tool) the wood stove can pay for.  ;-)


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## jason1238 (Feb 20, 2007)

> ...chalked it up for another toy (tool) the wood stove can pay for.  ;-)



...yeah, the "toys" are starting to get a bit pricey...my stove's bill is fast piling up 

And Disco is right, you sure have some fine lookin' "employees" Roo!  I can't wait for my new hire to start!


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## Roospike (Feb 20, 2007)

jason1238 said:
			
		

> > ...chalked it up for another toy (tool) the wood stove can pay for.  ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I added up ALL my stove toys from the stove , chimney install to log splitter , chainsaws , trailer and everything else and come up with a 6 year payoff return from the stove and everything else. I cut some trees in the neighborhood for $$ and it took off a few years from the payoff , gave me some more free wood and gave me 7 cords to give away to higher in need of wood burners. 

I think there is a thread somewhere around here on cost of wood stoves and pay off times if i can find it.


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## TMonter (Feb 20, 2007)

Roo would you use standard Husky oil for the break in or something else?

I'm going to order my 372XP later this week and relegate my 455 Rancher to being my backup saw.

I'll likely ask for a few more tips as I set the saw up over the next few weeks. How easy is the 372 to adjust carburetor wise? I have a lot of experience with carbs, but mostly on larger applications such as cycles and trucks.


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## Roospike (Feb 20, 2007)

TMonter said:
			
		

> Roo would you use standard Husky oil for the break in or something else?
> 
> I'm going to order my 372XP later this week and relegate my 455 Rancher to being my backup saw.
> 
> I'll likely ask for a few more tips as I set the saw up over the next few weeks. How easy is the 372 to adjust carburetor wise? I have a lot of experience with carbs, but mostly on larger applications such as cycles and trucks.



Sure , no problem with the standard Husqvarna gas oil mix for break in , thats what I used for about 5 gallons of gas. The carbs have limiter caps on 2 of the 3 screws , I just pulled the limiter caps off ground down the stops and reinstalled them before making adjustments. With some saws if you leave the limiter caps off the screws will vibrate out of adjustment so keep the caps , take off the ears and reinstall.


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## carpniels (Feb 22, 2007)

hi Roo,

It looks like this is an item for the hearth wikipedia. 

"How to mod your saw", bt Roospike.

Carpniels


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## precaud (Feb 22, 2007)

Excellent as always, Roo. I'll take a look at the 5100S to see what the setup there is. Don't think I'll do any muffler mods until the warranty expires, though...


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