# Drill Press Options



## thinkxingu (May 23, 2011)

Hello All,
     Looking for a drill press--could use either bench top or floor, but I'm partial to the latter since bench space is at a minimum.  Way I see it, two options: low-end new ($200, Black Bull @ TSC would be my choice) or high-end used.  There's a JET floor press that looks like it's nice shape on Craigslist for $250 that I'm thinking about.

Thoughts?

S


----------



## 94ranger55 (May 23, 2011)

Used old school quailty made would my route ! Something like delta,jet, powermatic or craftsman can be found for short money !


----------



## smokinj (May 23, 2011)

Craglist I have a 1974 cummins Its very hard to stop it. A cheep one just would not be worth it unless all you do is wood.


----------



## Battenkiller (May 24, 2011)

94ranger55 said:
			
		

> Used old school quailty made would my route ! Something like delta,jet, powermatic or craftsman can be found for short money !



+1

God, TX, calling a Jet "high-end" is something I never would have dreamed of 15 years ago.  Be patient and look for an old drill press made by a major manufacturer of days gone by.  Chances are you'll find a press a lot nicer than a "top-of-the-line" Jet for half that price.

There simply are no high-end power tools being made at the consumer level.  Period.  Even the venerable Powermatic tools are mostly made in Taiwan these days (owned by WMH Tool Group, as is Jet).  When I worked selling tools, it was sad indeed when each new shipment seemed to have even more of the telltale signs of Asian manufacture.  My 6" long-bed Powermatic jointer (made in Taiwan) is one of the least user-friendly/serviceable tools I have ever used.  My Performax thickness sander (uh, owned by WMH as well  :roll: ), absolutely cannot achieve consistent drive belt tracking, nor can it be adjusted so that the thickness is the same across its mere 16" width.  Makes a handy conveyor belt if you want to move something two feet, and that's about it.  That is, until the $50 drive belt runs into the belt tensioning hardware and tears to shreds.  And those wonderful massive Wilton vises that held an iron bar like it was welded in place just by nudging the handle with the heel of your hand?  Made in Taiwan as well.

Thank God most stove makers haven't followed down that dark road... yet.


----------



## dave11 (May 24, 2011)

I have a Jet drill press, benchtop model that I bought new a couple years ago. Seems well made, and I've had no problems with it. I'd stay away from whatever the box stores carry though, if I could help it.


----------



## Jags (May 24, 2011)

I'm backing up BK's opinion of go old or go home.  The drill press that I run is probably close to 100 years old and is as smoooth as it gets.  My dad has a small bench top model from sears that sounds and acts like it was put together from 6 different erector sets.

As far as Jet goes - never owned one, but I can say that I am unimpressed with most of the stuff I have seen from them.

Old skool Delta Rockwells would be on my short list.

Looking on fleebay, there is a King Seeley (vintage sears), that would outlast/outdo 99% of anything you will buy off the shelf today.  Its at 100 bean pods with no bids:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-King-Se...256?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2310ff39a8


----------



## smokinj (May 24, 2011)

Jags said:
			
		

> I'm backing up BK's opinion of go old or go home.  The drill press that I run is probably close to 100 years old and is as smoooth as it gets.  My dad has a small bench top model from sears that sounds and acts like it was put together from 6 different erector sets.
> 
> As far as Jet goes - never owned one, but I can say that I am unimpressed with most of the stuff I have seen from them.
> 
> Old skool Delta Rockwells would be on my short list.



I know my 1974 cummins will break an arm if you dont set it up right.


----------



## Jags (May 24, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> Jags said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



A vise or heavy gloves are ALWAYS used when running my drill press.  It will yank your arm out of its socket if you don't pay attention.


----------



## Jags (May 24, 2011)

And for 3 hunert bucks you could have a press that your great grand children will still be running:
http://cgi.ebay.com/CLAUSING-16SC-F...319?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45fac5b4df

These are just a couple of examples of what is out there in the used market.  And these are FAR superior machines than anything you will find at a box store.


----------



## smokinj (May 24, 2011)

Jags said:
			
		

> And for 3 hunert bucks you could have a press that your great grand children will still be running:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/CLAUSING-16SC-F...319?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45fac5b4df
> 
> These are just a couple of examples of what is out there in the used market.  And these are FAR superior machines than anything you will find at a box store.



Thats a press.


----------



## Battenkiller (May 24, 2011)

Jags said:
			
		

> And for 3 hunert bucks you could have a press that your great grand children will still be running:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/CLAUSING-16SC-F...319?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45fac5b4df



If that one was 1000 miles closer it'd be mine.  That is a beautiful old industrial machine.  Speed range is great as well, from 410-5380 RPM.  That covers just about everything.  I'd even do a cosmetic restore on that sweetheart.

Look, if you just need to punch an occasional hole in something, any drill press will do.  But then again, so will a 1/2" hand drill.  If you may someday want to do accurate drilling on carefully laid out projects, find yourself a real press.  My idea of Hell would be to spend eternity trying to adjust Taiwanese stationary power tools for precise work.  It was a living hell working at Woodcraft, trying to make the demo units work like we claimed they did.  Seriously, literally every power tool we sold except for the Delta Unisaw and the Powermatic 66 was Taiwanese junk.  I'm sure it's gone downhill to Chinese manufacture by now.

When I was working there, I made the mistake of buying a Rikon radial drill press with a tilting head.  I'd been wanting one for years, and this one seemed to be just what the doctor ordered.  Nice looking unit, 16 speeds, rave consumer reviews, and only $200 with a *5 year warranty.*  How could I go wrong?  Well, not only are the angle and depth stop adjustments nearly useless, the chuck wobbles at low speeds, making it absolutely useless for even punching round holes.  Two replacement power heads (under warranty) did the same thing.  Then Woodcraft closed and there was no easy way to get a third replacement.  I recently tried one last time to figure it out myself, probably bearing related but I don't know what bearings to upgrade to.   I just called Rikon and they told me they'd fix it (out of warranty now)... but I need to pay the shipping both ways.  More than the damn thing is worth, and they know it.  Now it sits in a little used corner of the workshop, holding down the concrete floor.  I should take them up on the offer, just to make them squirm when they can't fix it.

Don't let the snazzy promo pics of these things fool you.  Crap is crap, no matter how much you polish it.


----------



## Thistle (May 24, 2011)

Currently own 1980 Craftsman 8speed floor model (first major tool I bought,saved paper route /lawn mowing money in highschool.) Spindle bearings about shot now,cant find parts for it.Its the model just before they introduced rack & pinion table,you have to raise it manually,no fun there. Also own 1991 Delta 5 speed bench model,originally set up for sole use with Morticing Attachment,dont use it much now.Both are decent,not as good as 1940-60's stuff,but loads better than comparable stuff sold at Lowes,Northern Tool,Home Cheapo etc today.Am watching for a decent 1940's or later Atlas or Delta/Milwaukee or Rockwell model thats not too pricey.

My Stanley No.994A Vise. 4"wide jaws,4 1/4" opening,16pounds.Late 50's-early 60's paint scheme,from retired machinists estate sale.Design of these vises was carried over from North Bros. "Yankee" line,when Stanley purchased their Philadelphia company in 1946.Production of their vises,braces,the famous "Yankee" spiral ratchet screwdrivers & push drills was moved to Stanley's New Britain CT factory in 1953,soon afterwards the quality started to gradually decline.


----------



## dave11 (May 24, 2011)

As with most sweeping generalizations, the ones being made here are wrong. There were many, many bad tools made in olden times, and no manufacturer was immune to it. Most of the bad tools they made went by the wayside long ago, but not all. There are still old drill presses around that cannot be properly aligned, or won't stay in alignment, or which have vibration problems, etc. Even back then, it was "You get what you pay for," and even back then most people didn't want to pay very much. So while getting an older WELL-MADE tool might be a good idea now, there's no guarantee. 

Likewise, there are plenty of quality tools being made now, but you're going to pay more for them. My Powermatic 2000 table saw is as good as anything made years ago, and in many ways much safer and easier to use. Likewise, Lie-Nielsen and Veritas are making woodworking tools that greatly outdo anything made even in the heyday of quality tool manufacture.

Just do your homework and buy carefully.


----------



## Jags (May 24, 2011)

dave11 said:
			
		

> As with most sweeping generalizations, the ones being made here are wrong.



Sure - you can go and purchase a $1000 industrial drill press and end up with good quality, but the OP was looking at a price range that will not buy a quality new drill press, when in fact, the used market could cough up quite a few examples of good equipment.

I will refrain from posting the rest of my thoughts.


----------



## thinkxingu (May 24, 2011)

Thanks for the info, guys.  I'm digging those posted, but I'm nowhere near them.  The Jet near me is at $250, and a Ridgid was just posted for $100.  Maybe I'll look at them first.

S


----------



## Jags (May 24, 2011)

thinkxingu said:
			
		

> I'm digging those posted, but I'm nowhere near them.



Simply examples of the type of equipment that could be had for reasonable money, yet providing high quality.  If your not in a rush, I am sure it wouldn't take too long for something to show up in your area.


----------



## DanCorcoran (May 24, 2011)

It'd be interesting to convert the cost of a quality drill press in the "good old days" to current purchasing power (i.e. constant dollar).  My guess is that it was expensive to buy quality then and that it's expensive to buy quality now.  We forget that $250 back then equates to a lot more than that now.


----------



## Jags (May 24, 2011)

DanCorcoran said:
			
		

> It'd be interesting to convert the cost of a quality drill press in the "good old days" to current purchasing power (i.e. constant dollar).  My guess is that it was expensive to buy quality then and that it's expensive to buy quality now.  We forget that $250 back then equates to a lot more than that now.



You are correct, but they didn't build $25 drill presses (that would equate to about $1.00 in 1910 using the CPI index) like we do today.  That is kind of my point.  In 1910 - a $25 dollar drill press is equal to about $590 today (again, using the CPI index).


----------



## DanCorcoran (May 24, 2011)

Jags,

As long as you can still buy a quality tool for more, how does it hurt to have lesser quality more broadly available?  There are many tools on the market now (which I own) which I could never have afforded before.  I only use them occasionally for hobby and/or home repairs, so that fact that there's runout on the quill of my $150 Ryobi drill press doesn't bother me.  If I need precision, I can get the work done by a professional.  In the meantime, I get to play with my (relatively) inexpensive toys.


----------



## Jags (May 24, 2011)

DanCorcoran said:
			
		

> Jags,
> 
> As long as you can still buy a quality tool for more, how does it hurt to have lesser quality more broadly available?



Never said that it hurt anything.  I have several tools that are seldom used and doesn't warrant top quality purchases.  But a drill press is one of those things that are on the used market quite often that $100 used machine will outlast/outwork a $100 new one.  There are a handful of shop items that are like that.

On the flip side - a 25 year old, well used log splitter for $800 is probably NOT going to outperform a new one at $900.


----------



## thinkxingu (May 24, 2011)

Should I be concerned with surface rust?  If a unit's not been used in a while (six years)?

S


----------



## Jags (May 24, 2011)

thinkxingu said:
			
		

> Should I be concerned with surface rust?  If a unit's not been used in a while (six years)?
> 
> S



I wouldn't be overly concerned unless the rust appears to be in some kind of an advanced stage.  Make sure everything moves like it is supposed to, without excess play (like side play on the arbor shaft).


----------



## Battenkiller (May 24, 2011)

DanCorcoran said:
			
		

> Jags,
> 
> As long as you can still buy a quality tool for more, how does it hurt to have lesser quality more broadly available?  There are many tools on the market now (which I own) which I could never have afforded before.  I only use them occasionally for hobby and/or home repairs, so that fact that there's runout on the quill of my $150 Ryobi drill press doesn't bother me.  If I need precision, I can get the work done by a professional.  In the meantime, I get to play with my (relatively) inexpensive toys.



Very good point, but the fact remains that there are hundreds of much nicer used tools around for less money.  Yes, you have to know what you are looking at, but there is so much info on the Web about this stuff it's much less of a crap shoot than it was when I was first tooling up.  Patience will get you a high-quality tool that will last three lifetimes worth of occasional use.  

Even the drill chucks on some of these babies would cost more than a brand new Jet machine today.  My Hamilton Precision drill press came with two Albrecht keyless precision chucks (holds hair-like size 80 drill bits securely and perfectly centered).  I sold one chuck for $150 (new ones go for well over $300) and it paid for half the cost of the press, which was a steal at $300 to begin with.  

As well, sometimes old tools come with accessory tooling that is way undervalued.  My old bench top Delta came with a compound sliding table that I was able to tighten up and adjust to use for some very precise setups.  The cheapest new one I can find is a Taiwanese POS from MSC for $200.  Mine has almost no mechanical backlash and holds its adjustments fine.  One of equivalent quality would be over $500, but it was free with the $50 drill press I bought, as well as a very nice tilting drill press vise.  Crappy Asian-made tilting vises go for $50 from MSC, so you might say I got a decent used vise pretty cheaply, and a drill press and sliding table that came with it for free.

My Logan tool room lathe came with so much extra tooling that I won't even try to separately list it.  The collets and collet closer alone are worth close to $1000, and I only paid $350 for the entire setup.  Then there were two three-jaw chucks, a four-jaw chuck, a super nice internally threaded HD Jacobs drill chuck that threads directly onto the spindle nose, another Jacobs chuck that goes into the MT2 tailstock, a steady rest, numerous tool holders and boring bars, a box of brand new end mills, calipers, dial indicators, even some special tooling that was custom-made by the original owner (although I have no idea what specifically he used it for).  The person I got it from had it given to him by the original owner who used it to make parts for Navy diving helmets back in the 50s.  Since this was all collet work, the bed ways not only are unworn, they still have their original lapping marks on them for almost their entire length.  A lathe of this quality would probably cost over $10K today..._ if _anyone made a decent non-CNC lathe anymore.


Here's a YouTube clip of a lathe very similar to mine:





As long as you are aware of the fact that industrial quality tools were sometimes used around the clock and can be shadows of their former selves, if you check the equipment out carefully before plopping down your green, you can get 10X the tool for your money in most cases.

It's pointless to compare what a drill press would have cost in today's dollars.  We're not talking about buying new, we're talking about buying "old but next-to-new", or at least lightly used.  The point is to take your time, shop around and find an old one that has plenty of user life left in it, and then to get it for a song.  Few folks have the patience.  We live in times of instant gratification.  That fact plays well into the hands of the Chinese tool manufacturers.


----------



## DanCorcoran (May 25, 2011)

Battenkiller,

What you say makes perfect sense for someone who knows something about the tool in question.  For someone like me who has never owned or used one before (a drill press, for example), checking the "equipment out carefully before plopping down your green" makes no sense.  I paid $150 and have something that puts holes in wood and metal and came with a guarantee.   Had I bought used, it might not have worked at all.

When it comes to buying used power tools, heart monitors, telecommunications equipment, Caterpillar dozers, etc., one size does not fit all.


----------



## Battenkiller (May 25, 2011)

DanCorcoran said:
			
		

> Battenkiller,
> 
> What you say makes perfect sense for someone who knows something about the tool in question.  For someone like me who has never owned or used one before (a drill press, for example), checking the "equipment out carefully before plopping down your green" makes no sense.  I paid $150 and have something that puts holes in wood and metal and came with a guarantee.   Had I bought used, it might not have worked at all.
> 
> When it comes to buying used power tools, heart monitors, telecommunications equipment, Caterpillar dozers, etc., one size does not fit all.



Dan, 

I'm mostly addressing the OP here, not telling you or anyone here how to spend your money.  I'm glad you are happy with your choice.  You made the choice that seemed appropriate for you at the time.  Had you worked in the field like I have, you would have been a lot more leery about a brand new power tool not working correctly.  Remember, that Rikon I bought had a _5-year_ warranty, but in the end, it's still broken.

Believe me, I am no tool expert, and when I made my first forays into all this, I wasn't even quite sure how many stationary power tools were even operated.  Buying a used drill press isn't at all like buying a used heart monitor (although with the knowledge base on the Internet today, you could probably buy a good one).  Unlike a heart monitor or an MRI imaging machine, a drill press is a pretty simple device.  If you have any doubts, buy a cheap Chinese dial indicator (they work surprising well, too bad they don't use them when they make power tools) and a 1/2" polished dowel pin from an online industrial supply house (you should have these to check the accuracy of a new one anyway).  

Visually check and feel to make sure the chuck jaws don't have chips or dings on them, then put the indicator pin in the chuck.  Slowly tighten the chuck, one hole at a time (you should _always_ do this with any keyed drill chuck), then rotate the chuck by hand using the drive pulley.  This will give you the runout at the chuck.  If it is less than .003" you are good to go, but .005" wouldn't be a deal breaker for me for a general use press.  Most consumer grade chucks won't be much better than this, no matter how carefully you tighten the drill bit in them.  Less that .002" is about as good as it gets until you move up to the precision class like my Hamilton (mine has virtually zero runout).  


Here's a link to a good article on how to check and tune up your drill press:

www.rvplane.com/pdf/drill_press_tune-up.pdf


Too cheap to buy a dial indicator?  Make your own:

Homemade Dial Indicator


The rest is pretty simple.  Plug it in and turn in on.  Does the motor work?  No grinding sounds or metallic rattles?  Are any parts broken or obviously missing?  Do the chuck jaws move freely and smoothly.  Are the controls smooth and easy to operate?  Does the depth stop (one of the most important things on a drill press) work well?  Basic stuff any guy who owns any power tools should be able to see real quickly, but the best way to learn what a good one feels like is to buy a cheapo new one and use it for awhile.  After that, virtually any of the older ones will feel like a fine Swiss watch.  

Anyway, I've had my say and I'm unsubscribing from this one.  I could go on and on about my bad experiences with crappy power tools, but you know me.  My typing finger gets going at light speed, next thing you know I've got multiple consecutive 6000 character posts going like Craig's "Ash Can" diatribes.  I'll save him the bandwidth, he's getting close to saving the world.


In closing, yeah, it's tons easier to just go to the box store and pick one up (the Ridgid ones ain't all that bad), but if you get a good one it will put a smile on your face every time you use it.  All the cheap ones ever do is make me scowl.


----------



## DanCorcoran (May 25, 2011)

Battenkiller,

Thanks, your thoughtful posts are always welcome.  I just disagree with them sometimes, but that's okay too...right?


----------



## smokinj (May 25, 2011)

DanCorcoran said:
			
		

> Battenkiller,
> 
> Thanks, your thoughtful posts are always welcome.  I just disagree with them sometimes, but that's okay too...right?



Battenkiller got some "Mad Skills" ! I need him to Mcgiaver me an M7...... :cheese: lol But most cant and will not match-up to his skill set!


----------



## Jags (May 25, 2011)

DanCorcoran said:
			
		

> Battenkiller,
> 
> Thanks, your thoughtful posts are always welcome.  I just disagree with them sometimes, but that's okay too...right?



If everybody synchronized their nodding of the head, we wouldn't need to have discussions on how to stack wood. :coolsmile: 

Not everybody has the same "needs" in a tool.  But in response to the OPs post, the used market offered the potential for an upgrade, and that is a good thing (IMHO).


----------



## DanCorcoran (May 25, 2011)

You STACK your wood?


----------



## Battenkiller (May 25, 2011)

DanCorcoran said:
			
		

> You STACK your wood?



Yeah, I was wondering the same thing.


----------



## Jags (May 25, 2011)

Battenkiller said:
			
		

> DanCorcoran said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Remember - your asking the guy that coined the phrase "heapin-hauzen" %-P


----------



## Battenkiller (May 25, 2011)

Jags said:
			
		

> Remember - your asking the guy that coined the phrase "heapin-hauzen" %-P



'Tis true, 'tis true.

Hey, I just found a way to recoup losses on crappy Taiwanese tools that never work right.  Keep 'em for 6 years and wait for the retail price to go up.  I paid $180 for mine.

http://www.amazon.com/RIKON-30-251-Floor-Radial-Drill/dp/B002FB74XI

Think I can actually sell the thing and turn a tidy profit.


----------



## DanCorcoran (May 26, 2011)

Doesn't have to be crappy Taiwanese tools.  I got a written offer on my 2007 Subaru Forester from CarMax two years ago for $12,500.  I decided not to sell.  Two weeks ago I sold it to a Subaru dealer for $13,500 cash.  They basically paid me $500 a year to drive it for two years (it had 18,000 miles on it then, and 39,000 when I sold it).  Go figure...


----------



## Battenkiller (May 26, 2011)

DanCorcoran said:
			
		

> Doesn't have to be crappy Taiwanese tools.  I got a written offer on my 2007 Subaru Forester from CarMax two years ago for $12,500.  I decided not to sell.  Two weeks ago I sold it to a Subaru dealer for $13,500 cash.  They basically paid me $500 a year to drive it for two years (it had 18,000 miles on it then, and 39,000 when I sold it).  Go figure...



H-mmmm... I wonder what we'd get for my wife's 2002 Toyota Corolla with 292,000 miles on it if we wait ten years.  :cheese: 

Sounds like you made out a little better on that than I will on this dang drill press, and I didn't even get to use it for two years. ;-)


----------



## smokinj (May 26, 2011)

After this one I would bet a 460 I could pee at-least 4 inch's further than either of You! :coolgrin: (double shock that one  %-P )


----------



## Battenkiller (May 26, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> After this one I would bet a 460 I could pee at-least 4 inch's further than either of You! :coolgrin: (double shock that one  %-P )



Prolly right there, SJ.  At this stage I can barely clear my boot tips... and that's with the 4" extension that came stock with the tool. :coolsmile:


----------



## smokinj (May 26, 2011)

Battenkiller said:
			
		

> smokinjay said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...





lmao! :lol:


----------



## Jags (May 26, 2011)

Battenkiller said:
			
		

> smokinjay said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Okay - that one got a grin and a snicker out of me. :lol:


----------



## Delta-T (May 26, 2011)

time for smaller boots maybe. or stand with toes pointed inward. you can thank me later.


----------



## Battenkiller (May 26, 2011)

Here's a pic of my old Delta homeowner's drill press.  It's a beefy little pig of a tool that has served me well for about 15 years or so.  The compound slide table and vise that came with it are sitting up on the table. $50 for everything.  Worth a gamble even for a newbie at that price.

Flanking it to the left is a next-to-useless 12" shear made in India.  Supposed to cut 1/4" plate, it has trouble with 16 ga.  They didn't get the cutters aligned right, so heavier metal just causes them to separate too far to cut.  Suppose I can sell that for a profit now as well, only cost me $125.  To the right is a made-in-China 5" Makita angle grinder that has held up to some serious grinding, so some stuff they got right.  Chalk it up to Makita quality control.  Farther over is a Delta 42" belt/9" disc sander that... well... it's getting sold too.  My 72" Bader belt grinder would consume that entire sander in about a minute.

Sorry for the huge pic, I forgot to downsize it before uploading to my Photobucket account and I'm too lazy to redo it.


----------



## DanCorcoran (May 26, 2011)

I see that your shop equipment is not the only old stuff you value...Scotch for example.


----------



## Battenkiller (May 27, 2011)

DanCorcoran said:
			
		

> I see that your shop equipment is not the only old stuff you value...Scotch for example.



Ah... is _that_ what that is?  I just buy it for the handy storage tunes it comes in. :roll: 

Actually, that stuff is only 10 years old.  Everyday malt.  I really like the Lagavulin 16 and Bowmore 17... when I've been a good boy.  Been very bad lately, so it's Elijah Craig for a while.


----------



## kevin j (May 27, 2011)

We had a couple of the cheap tawian bench drills on my dad's farm. One very quickly had a loose spindle. Bearings were fine but the 'quill?' or spindle was floppy.
The other ran great, but low speed was 400 rpm or more. For drilling a 3/4 bit in steel, too fast, dnagerous, burned bits, not enough torque, slipped belts, and chucks were hard to tighten enough, and just not good for farm use. Eventually we got another older tool room unit that went down to about 150 rpm and it worked great. 
 So I would vote with the go old and heavy and good, but make sure it goes slow enough if you are going to do big holes in steel with 1/2 inch shank bits.

Wish I had it now. The big old hand drill works, but is not precise and it is quite a workout for the arms with larger bits. My biggest hand drill is a 1950's B&D, when they were quality, 1/2 inch, 175 rpm speed, forward only. slow, powerful, and controllable. Sold the new craftsman as it ran too fast, and had the old B&D rebuilt. Not doing much in heavy steel anymore though...


----------



## SolarAndWood (May 27, 2011)

Battenkiller said:
			
		

> Here's a pic of my old Delta homeowner's drill press.



I have the same one.  It's hard to go wrong when you find a tool like that at that price.


----------



## Battenkiller (May 27, 2011)

SolarAndWood said:
			
		

> Battenkiller said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Or 5X the price if you have to.  Luckily, they are to be had for much less, so you don't have to.

Now find me an 8" industrial bench grinder for that much and I'll be happier than a pig in poo.   :cheese:


----------



## thinkxingu (May 30, 2011)

Any feedback on Orbit drill presses?


----------



## Battenkiller (May 30, 2011)

thinkxingu said:
			
		

> Any feedback on Orbit drill presses?



Early Taiwanese stuff, much better than the stuff that came later.  The few I've seen are pretty heavy duty for a home owner's press.  Worth getting if it's fairly cheap and in good shape.


----------



## thinkxingu (May 31, 2011)

Batten (or anyone else with info): There's an Orbit 1414 (can't find info on it) 5-speed "industrial" press on Craigslist near me for $75.  If it's in fine shape (it belonged to the woman's father, who passed away), would this be a decent homeowner press?

Thanks,

S


----------



## Battenkiller (May 31, 2011)

I found a couple of 1412s on the Web.  Not sure what the difference is, but the 1412 looks like what I've seen before.  Certainly not an "industrial" drill press by any standard, but that's a real good price on a decent homeowner's tool.  One's I've seen on eBay and such are going for a lot more.


----------



## thinkxingu (May 31, 2011)

JET doesn't seem to get great feedback, but how would you compare the Orbit to this: http://nh.craigslist.org/tls/2413296430.html

S


----------



## Battenkiller (May 31, 2011)

They may look similar is layout and such because Orbit was an early Jet sub-brand.  That said, I'd rather own one old Orbit than five new Jets.  The new stuff is all junk AFAIC, makes no difference how many bells and whistles they add.  Read the product reviews for that Jet to see what I mean.  Pay careful attention to the real bad reviews, they are often written by the more knowledgeable guys.  The guy who's never owned one before and punches a few holes in stuff from time to time might be thrilled, the seasoned vets wouldn't use them for ship anchors.

Jet's been around for a while now.  The old stuff was decent, the new stuff is a total waste of your hard earned dough.  How someone can f*** up something as simple as a drill press is beyond me, but they just don't work well at all.  You'd have to use a good one a bit to see just how bad these things really are.

FWIW nobody needs 16 speeds.  I general, you need one real slow speed for large bits, one real fast speed for tiny bits, and two others in between the extremes.  All those pulleys and belts... you'll end up drilling with the wrong speed most of the time because you won't feel like messing with them.


----------



## thinkxingu (Jun 1, 2011)

Thanks for the continued help- the only press I've ever used is my father's Delta. It's super sweet- he got it from his machine shop about 30 years ago, and they'd already had it a decade or so. Real American machinery, and I'd buy one like it in a heartbeat, if I could find one. Looks like other parts of the country would have no problem.

S


----------



## Battenkiller (Jun 1, 2011)

Be patient, one will turn up near you.  Sadly, there are machine shops closing up every day.  It's definitely worth driving a few hours for a tool you'll have for the rest of your life.  In the meantime, get that Orbit and sell it when the press of your dreams (if you actually dream such things) comes along. ;-)


----------



## thinkxingu (Jun 1, 2011)

This is the reason I prefer buying new: after two emails and trying to arrange a time to meet, I don't hear anything and the ad is taken down!  I assume it's sold, and now I'm back to the drawing board. I've been thinking about just picking up the Buffalo at TSC for $200 or the Ridgid at HD for $300.

S


----------



## thinkxingu (Jun 1, 2011)

And then there's this: http://nh.craigslist.org/for/2415040443.html

S


----------



## Battenkiller (Jun 1, 2011)

I got nothin' for ya on those, but there are several older drill presses in the NH Craigslist.  Some are from shops that are closing.  FWIW you have a lot more going on with these things in your area than I do right now.


----------



## thinkxingu (Jun 1, 2011)

What am I missing?!


----------



## Battenkiller (Jun 2, 2011)

Here's one to die for:

http://nh.craigslist.org/tls/2415963786.html

If I had room for it I'd have it sitting in the shop tomorrow.  $550 as is, several thousands dollars worth of equipment for a new equivalent.


This one has a six-chuck turret head.

http://nh.craigslist.org/tls/2412128502.html


Another Orbit in Amherst, NH:

http://nh.craigslist.org/tls/2409888795.html


This guy is selling all his tools.  Way down he lists:

"Craftsman drill press bench top. *Older and very well made* $50.00"

Don't bring more than $50 or you will flatten your wallet once you see all the goodies he's selling.  He should have no problem checking the spindle and chuck for runout, he's a machinist.

http://nh.craigslist.org/tls/2405185355.html


Very nice old Dayton for $150 OBO

http://nh.craigslist.org/tls/2398937155.html


Who knows what this one is, or how much.  Call.

http://nh.craigslist.org/tls/2398554235.html


Older Taiwanese press.  $50.

http://nh.craigslist.org/tls/2392769957.html


Older Craftsman.  Worth a call.  Ask for pics. $40

http://nh.craigslist.org/tls/2362140919.html







Here's an eBay offering that has no bids and is at $99 with only 14 hrs to go.  Shipping will be something like $250 to a commercial site, it's worth at least $350, it's a little beauty.  Comes with a very intriguing drilling fixture that is probably worth $500.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Rockwell-Drill-...580?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aab87670c



Bingo!  Here's your press.  Nice Rockwell/Delta Variable speed (300-3100 RPM) in real good shape.  This one will blow the doors off any new Asian press being made today.  $220 "Buy It Now", drive 3 hours to get it.  It's a sweetie.  Call in the AM (Jack Duer at 860-484-4449), maybe the guy will work something out about getting it to you.  Always ask.  If you don't want it let me know, I may be interested.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Rockwell-Delta-...842?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f09a4dc1a


Good luck.  Gotta run, the whisky's making me sleepy.


----------



## thinkxingu (Jun 2, 2011)

Batten,
     I saw most of those, but wasn't quite sure about any of them.  I'm looking at these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Delta-Drill-Press-/320707490286?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aaba7f1ee
http://providence.craigslist.org/tls/2381626125.html (only the Craftsman is available--dang!)
http://providence.craigslist.org/tls/2382035575.html

I really like the last one--looks like it's either been very well maintained or restored, and I appreciate the simplicity.  Will call the guy tonight--what do you think of that one?

S


----------



## SolarAndWood (Jun 2, 2011)

Battenkiller said:
			
		

> Don't bring more than $50 or you will flatten your wallet once you see all the goodies he's selling.



lol if there was money to be made shopping for used machinery, you would be all set.


----------



## oldspark (Jun 2, 2011)

If that one delta (BK's bingo) was close I would be all over it.


----------



## Battenkiller (Jun 2, 2011)

oldspark said:
			
		

> If that one delta (BK's bingo) was close I would be all over it.



Yup, it's a dandy.  I just called the guy.  Unfortunately, it's gone.

They have others.  Here's an excellent old Walker Turner for $195.  Machine shop quality, all any homeowner would ever need.  Chuck is only 3/8" capacity, but it's an Albrecht so it a great one.  I'm sure the guy has a used 1/2" or 5/8" Jacobs chuck floating around somewhere for a small extra charge.

http://www.globalmachinebrokers.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=3521


----------



## thinkxingu (Jun 2, 2011)

Yeah, they sold it this morning.  Didn't matter--only open on weekdays, and I couldn't have gotten there for a while.

What do y'all think about the Craftsman I posted (third down in my list)?  It's floor standing and looks to be well maintained--the seller said it runs like a top, and I can head down this weekend.

S


----------



## thinkxingu (Jun 2, 2011)

Or this: http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/tls/2405367260.html


----------



## Battenkiller (Jun 2, 2011)

thinkxingu said:
			
		

> http://providence.craigslist.org/tls/2382035575.html
> 
> I really like the last one--looks like it's either been very well maintained or restored, and I appreciate the simplicity.  Will call the guy tonight--what do you think of that one?



TX, I don't think that's been restored, looks like that one was in mothballs for the last 60 years or so.  Made by Atlas, a great old tool company.  They made presses and metal lathes for Sears as well as under their own name.  I just gave a buddy a nice old 6" Sears lathe made by Atlas.  I believe the presses with the name cast into the pulley cover are all pre-war.  No, not pre-Iraq War, pre-WWII.  Way more than it's worth, though. Offer $100, go as high as $150 if you have to.  It's a cutie for sure.


Show him this link.  The guy got it for $119 (plus an old motor thrown in) from a used equipment dealer (who tend to ask top dollar for that stuff).  


http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=1530


Personally, I'd rather have the Walker Turner at that price, but I'd be more into an industrial quality DP if I was gonna replace mine.  If you can snag it for $125 or so you'll have yourself a sweetheart deal on a press you'll never want to sell.


----------



## Battenkiller (Jun 2, 2011)

thinkxingu said:
			
		

> Or this: http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/tls/2405367260.html



Same as the Orbit.  You can see the "Jet" name on the tag and everything.


----------



## Battenkiller (Jun 2, 2011)

thinkxingu said:
			
		

> What do y'all think about the Craftsman I posted (third down in my list)?  It's floor standing and looks to be well maintained--the seller said it runs like a top, and I can head down this weekend.



See my post below (#64) above.


----------



## thinkxingu (Jun 2, 2011)

I thought that meant Jet, but it's posted as a Delta.  
I'm gonna call tonight about the Craftsman--I'm not sure I even need a press, and since I've never done anything but drill a few holes in wood I don't think I need something with tons of bells and whistles, etc.  In fact, I've not used a press in 5 years--so, if whatever I get is quality enough to drill some holes for a while I'm good.

We'll see what happens when I give him a call.  I'll report back.

S


----------



## thinkxingu (Jun 2, 2011)

Looks like I'm going to Newport to pick up the Craftsman. Story is that the guy bought it off the original owner, who used it rarely, detailed it and rarely used it himself.  Assures me it's absolutely mint and runs as new. If it's not a letdown, it'll be exactly what I've been looking for.  We'll see about final price, but he's also gonna throw in a vice of same vintage/history.

S


----------



## Battenkiller (Jun 4, 2011)

Vise could make the deal.  Maybe he has other stuff, too.  Hey... I drive a _hard_ bargain.  Good luck with it, but it didn't happen until we see the pics. ;-)


----------



## thinkxingu (Jun 6, 2011)

Hi All,
     Picked up the press yesterday--it's in great shape, the motor and all components run smoothly and quietly.  It drilled a 1/2" hole through a PT 4x6 without hesitation, and the hole is round and right on (I had marked both sides), so it's more than accurate enough for what I'll be doing (though I did get nervous when I saw my first bit wobbling--turns out the bit was slightly bent).  There are a couple little jimmies (non-stock motor-mount bolts, etc.) but otherwise completely stock.  I think it'll be perfect for me.

Question, though: I know there is (and have) a list of proper drilling speeds, but is there one I can set it on and be pretty much all set with most of what I do?  I'm thinking 1300 would be a safe place?  Or should I be slower at 700?

S


----------



## smokinj (Jun 6, 2011)

thinkxingu said:
			
		

> Hi All,
> Picked up the press yesterday--it's in great shape, the motor and all components run smoothly and quietly.  It drilled a 1/2" hole through a PT 4x6 without hesitation, and the hole is round and right on (I had marked both sides), so it's more than accurate enough for what I'll be doing (though I did get nervous when I saw my first bit wobbling--turns out the bit was slightly bent).  There are a couple little jimmies (non-stock motor-mount bolts, etc.) but otherwise completely stock.  I think it'll be perfect for me.
> 
> Question, though: I know there is (and have) a list of proper drilling speeds, but is there one I can set it on and be pretty much all set with most of what I do?  I'm thinking 1300 would be a safe place?  Or should I be slower at 700?
> ...



I keep mine as slow as it can go. Now I am only using bigger forsner bit up to 4 inch, but would not change speeds if I used something else.


----------



## Jags (Jun 7, 2011)

I run mine fairly slow as well.  I just really don't do alot of belt swapping.  I am just as liable to grab a 3/4" or 1" bit as I am a 1/4" so I run at just a few hundred RPM unless I have a big job (lots of holes) that warrant dialing in the "proper" speed.


----------



## Battenkiller (Jun 10, 2011)

TX, I saw your post earlier in the week.  All those questions and research paid off, huh?  I've been down and out for the count after picking up a deer tick and contracting Lyme.  Hit me real bad, a week of total misery, fever up to 104Âº, non-stop screaming headache for a solid week, no sleep, can't eat.  Watch it out there, guys, they're thick in the bush, even with the bad winter we had.  I tuck my pants into my socks these days, but this one dug in up by the waistband.  Wasn't in there that long, either.  Take the chaps off midday and check around in there, they like it because it's toasty warm.  Wouldn't wish this on anybody.

Glad you like the press, patience and good luck prevailed.  Regarding best general belt position, that depends on what you are drilling.  You'll get a feel for how the bits are cutting if you keep them sharp/replaced as needed.  Metal's more picky than wood.  Small diameter drill bits really want to run at the highest speed they are designed for in metal.  If they aren't cutting well because the speed is too slow, you'll put too much pressure on them and they'll bend or break on you.  I just checked my press and it's on the slowest speed.  Not sure how many RPMs that is, but I do 90% of my drilling there.  Too high in wood and you'll burn the wood and damage the bit.

A few other things.  If you get the urge to use the press as a drum sander, get the cheapest press you can and put the drum in that one.  Drill press spindle bearing are not designed for a sideways load.  Other thing is, check your old drill bits for burs along the shank and grind them smooth if you find them.  They will cause the bit to not seat correctly and can damage your chuck jaws.  And as I mentioned above somewhere, tighten the chuck slowly, one hole at a time.  A lot of folks don't know to do that, especially if all you've ever used is keyless chucks.


----------



## oldspark (Jun 10, 2011)

BK I hope you are feeling better, be careful out there, do not think we have a lot of deer ticks in Iowa but I guess they are here.


----------



## Jags (Jun 10, 2011)

oldspark said:
			
		

> BK I hope you are feeling better, be careful out there, do not think we have a lot of deer ticks in Iowa but I guess they are here.



You got deer.  You got deer ticks.  Northern Illinois and S WI. have a couple of counties that have a higher risk than where it originated (Lyme).

Take care BK - if you caught it quick you will bounce back well.  I have had several friends infected.  It ain't pretty.


----------



## thinkxingu (Jun 10, 2011)

Holy smokes!  Sorry to hear about your battle with Lyme disease, my man.  Best of luck on your recovery.
As for the press, I'll try throwing it down to the lowest speed.  The factory set screws required a wrench to change the speeds, but I replaced them with knobs that I can hand loosen/tighten so the changes will be quicker.  I may actually end up changing the belts now for major projects, but for little things I'll run at 700.

As I mentioned above, it will absolutely do everything I need it to--certainly a bit slower with the belts/table adjustments, but I've got time--and it's a classic piece I'm proud to own.  Sometimes I wonder if I was born in the wrong era.

Thanks for all your help, everyone--especially you, BK.

S


----------



## Battenkiller (Jun 11, 2011)

No problem, TX.  Got plenty of help on other matters here myself, especially saws.





As for the Lyme, I think I got the drugs in time.  Lucky I got a high enough fever that my wife decided to give me a sponge bath to cool me down. She found the rash, I never even noticed it.  Without the rash I was just thinking some gnarly virus.

Now if I can just get her to give me a sponge bath tonight. %-P 



Here's a Lyme distribution map put out by the CDC.  Thought it might helps folks see where they stand in there area.


----------

