# New saw and splitter



## Fiziksgeek (Jun 15, 2012)

I was planning to upgrade my ~9 year old husquvarna 350 and was thinking of buying a log splitter vs. renting, but a recent event, the arrival of some large log length has made me move up my plans.

I am new to significant wood burning, but still only expecting to go through 2-3 cords per year. Never burnt more than a cord in any previous year. I bought some log length for the 2013-14 season hoping to get a head, and although the guy promised me there was nothing big in there, he dropped some logs up to 45" in my driveway last night!

Was originally planning to go with a 60cc saw, MS362 or Husky 562, but am now thinking maybe a 70 CC saw would be better MS441 or Husky 372. Anyone have a recommendation?


For a log splitter, again, I was originally thinking the 22 ton Iron and Oak, but if I occasionally need to split some big wood, should i go up in power? Again, most of the wood I will be working with will be 24" or less, but this log length delivery was a surprise, and I'll likely be helping out my parents, they have a couple big oaks that need to come down, 36-40" as well. Want something that tows fairly well.

No particular budget in mind. Would really like to stay under 4K for both, 3K preferable.


----------



## xman23 (Jun 15, 2012)

I get by with my 260 pro with a 18" bar and a MTD 20 ton 5 HP splitter. I don't have much issues bucking or splitting the wood i get.  If the wood you are getting bigger you may need a  70 CC 24" saw and a smaller saw for every day stuff. Big saws drink gas and are heavy. Just make sure the splitter goes vertical. You will never lift 45" rounds.


----------



## KarlP (Jun 15, 2012)

IMO a 70cc saw is a better companion to a 50cc saw than a 60cc. 

22 ton is probably plenty, but I wouldn't tow a splitter more than a few miles on smooth roads.  There is no suspension on them.  I always run them up ramps onto a trailer with a suspension and high speed tires.


----------



## DexterDay (Jun 15, 2012)

My 21 ton MTD Gold has pushed through everything I have put in front of it....  There are a lot of happy 22 ton Huskee users here also. It does all jobs well..

As for the saw. The Stihl 441 or 460 is a saw that could tackle that Oak. Along with the 372xp or 576 xp Husqvarna.

Either one of the splitters above would work, along with any one of those 4 saws. Its possible to be in around $2,000 for both. Which is way under the 3k or 4k you mentioned. $999 for the Huskee splitter and about $1,000 for a good 70cc saw with 2 bars (20" for the regular stuff and a 28" or 32" skip tooth for the BIG stuff). 

 It could be $3,000 if you go way big on the splitter. But in my opinion, 20-27 ton does just fine.


----------



## HittinSteel (Jun 15, 2012)

The 372, 576, 441, 440, 460, 2171, 2172 and 7900 are all great saws


----------



## JP11 (Jun 15, 2012)

Try not to get carried away. There's ALWAYS one saw or splitter bigger. You don't want to gear up for 10 cord a year production if you'll only ever do 2 or 3 a year. Now.. if you're a tool nut.. and WANT pro gear.. go for it.

If the big oak is going to be a rare occasion... your TIME will allow a smaller saw like a 360 to do just fine. A rental here and there wouldn't be expensive. Look at the time savings vs cost. You labor isn't free... but then again you don't need to break the bank for a couple times a decade occurrence of big trees to buck.

JP


----------



## kingquad (Jun 15, 2012)

I have a Husky 365 x-torq and 27 ton troybuilt splitter.  Less than $2000 for that combo.


----------



## Fiziksgeek (Jun 15, 2012)

JP11 said:


> Try not to get carried away.
> 
> JP


 
You been talking to my wife??

I hear ya. I took down a couple of ash trees earlier in the spring, ~18-20 inch diameter. I noticed the bar pulling heavy to one side making for an uneven cut. I figured the saw is getting to be ~10 years old, so I invested in a new bar and chain (1st new bar, 2nd new chain in its life). She cuts just fine in smaller stuff, but works real hard getting through the 18" ash. My original plan was to go up to a 60 CC pro saw. I think I should see a significant performance increase over the 10 year old 50 cc homeowner saw..?

Anyone have an opinion of the Husky 562 vs the MS 362?

I'll likely run a 20" bar, 99.9% of the time. Would be nice to have a 25" bar as an option for the occasional big log.


----------



## kingquad (Jun 15, 2012)

Fiziksgeek said:


> You been talking to my wife??
> 
> I hear ya. I took down a couple of ash trees earlier in the spring, ~18-20 inch diameter. I noticed the bar pulling heavy to one side making for an uneven cut. I figured the saw is getting to be ~10 years old, so I invested in a new bar and chain (1st new bar, 2nd new chain in its life). She cuts just fine in smaller stuff, but works real hard getting through the 18" ash. My original plan was to go up to a 60 CC pro saw. I think I should see a significant performance increase over the 10 year old 50 cc homeowner saw..?
> 
> ...


Those are both good saws.  I would go for the 562.  These new autotune saws are beasts.  The 562 feels better IMO.  Go handle both, then buy the Husky
If I were only going to have one saw, it would be a 562xp


----------



## DexterDay (Jun 15, 2012)

My Brother in law has the 562xp and I have an 036 (360). They are both fantastic saws. But the difference between them and my MS 460.. Night and Day. 
His 562xp is nice..... Runs strong and revs high. But can be a PITA to start. 2 weeks ago he came over and we were gonna do some cutting. My old 036, fired with the 4th pull (2 on full choke, 2 on half) and we had to remove his spark plug and "dry" out the cylinder because it was flooded. All my Huskys start easily. But that one is definitely different. Runs great... But cant adjust anything to make it start or run bettter (auto).

Cant go wrong with a 036/360/361/362 or the 562xp. Its gonna be a noticeable difference, compared to your 350. But I wouldnt pull anything bigger than a 24"-25" on those saws. They will handle most of the wood encountered. But to pull a Big Bar, there is no replacement for Displacement 

As noted above, a 70cc and a 50cc will make a good combo. But a good 60cc (or 59  ) is also a vast improvement. Will cut some cost and allow for a smaller budget (Wife always likes that!).


----------



## Ashful (Jun 15, 2012)

Fiziksgeek said:


> Anyone have an opinion of the Husky 562 vs the MS 362?
> 
> I'll likely run a 20" bar, 99.9% of the time. Would be nice to have a 25" bar as an option for the occasional big log.


 
I have a 50cc saw with a 20" bar and a 40cc saw with a 16" bar.  Didn't plan it that way, just happened to inherit them.  We used to own a 70cc saw with a 28" bar, but that was stolen years ago.  I can tell you this:

1.  I always grab the 40cc saw first, unless I need the 20" bar.  It's just lighter, quieter, and safer (because it's lighter and I get less tired using it).

2.  A 25" bar is going to be no fun on a 50cc saw.  I'd be buying 60cc's or larger to run that bar. 

3.  I would also look at a 70cc saw as a better companion to a 50cc, if that's what I already had.


----------



## thewoodlands (Jun 15, 2012)

Most of my cutting is done with the stihl 390 with the stihl 310 used for a second saw. That 22 ton should split any rounds you have.

zap


----------



## MasterMech (Jun 15, 2012)

Iron & Oak Splitters available at great prices here: http://www.buyacehardware.com/vertical-horizontal-log-splitters.html

Highly recommend the Subaru engine option. On the 26 ton splitter.  22 ton is a great machine but IMO the 26 offers the most favorable combination of power/performance/price.

+1 on the suggestions to a 70cc saw.  If you already have a 50cc machine then a 60cc saw will be a minor improvement.

Might I suggest the Stihl 441 M-Tronic?

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS441CM.html

$900 saw +$2100 splitter = $3000 worth of equipment that will eat up anything you're eyeing up to throw in the stove.

Leave's plenty of room for accessories and safety gear too.  Extra chain(s) for the saw, Chaps, Helmet, etc.


----------



## bogydave (Jun 15, 2012)

Since you mentioned it: 
Husq 562:



PN# 966 57 03-06  ------  24"...... $760
That's the saw I'd buy if $$ wasn't the issue. 

Splitting big wood & lots of it, 26/28 ton speeco or iron & oak. ($2200)
The 20/22 ton splitter split big wood, Some of the gnarly knotty stuff may be too much though.

$3,000.00 sets you up pretty nice to cut 2 - 3 cords of wood per year.
@ 3 cords per year, $200 per cord over 5 years, just in equipment cost. 

Now if you treat it like Hunting (guns/ATVs/hunting cabin costs), Fishing (boats/motors/motor homes)  & other fun hobbies, it changes the formula. 
wood cutting is cheaper .  LOL


----------



## punchy (Jun 15, 2012)

i love my ms362.  it cuts extremley well, i can only compare it to an 025 and 290.  it cuts on another level than those two saws do.


----------



## HittinSteel (Jun 15, 2012)

Fiziksgeek said:


> You been talking to my wife??
> 
> I hear ya. I took down a couple of ash trees earlier in the spring, ~18-20 inch diameter. I noticed the bar pulling heavy to one side making for an uneven cut. I figured the saw is getting to be ~10 years old, so I invested in a new bar and chain (1st new bar, 2nd new chain in its life). She cuts just fine in smaller stuff, but works real hard getting through the 18" ash. My original plan was to go up to a 60 CC pro saw. I think I should see a significant performance increase over the 10 year old 50 cc homeowner saw..?
> 
> ...


 
hahahaha, getting carried away is fun....look at my signature and I cut about 3 or 4 cords a year. Most of the time one of the mean little top handles is all I "need". Heating with wood is a lot of work and saves money, might as well have good equipment.


----------



## JDC1 (Jun 15, 2012)

I just picked up a 562 xp with a 20" bar.  First time out, I buried it in oak.  All that I have to say is hang on.  You can actually feel the auto tune compensating in the cut.  I cut for about an hour until the recoil exploded.  My other saw is a ms310 and while a good saw there is no comparing the two.  I was looking at a 362 or 441 as well but like the size and weight of the 562.

There are a lot of deals on good equipment if you have time.  I picked up our huskee 27 ton splitter in like new condition off a guy for $550.  He had some health issues and could nt cut anymore.


----------



## xman23 (Jun 15, 2012)

Fiziksgeek said:


> You been talking to my wife??
> 
> I hear ya. I took down a couple of ash trees earlier in the spring, ~18-20 inch diameter. I noticed the bar pulling heavy to one side making for an uneven cut. I figured the saw is getting to be ~10 years old, so I invested in a new bar and chain (1st new bar, 2nd new chain in its life). She cuts just fine in smaller stuff, but works real hard getting through the 18" ash. My original plan was to go up to a 60 CC pro saw. I think I should see a significant performance increase over the 10 year old 50 cc homeowner saw..?
> 
> ...


 

I to thought "you maybe getting caried away" But to each his own.
I don't know your saws original power, but it sounds like it is getting tired. Of course you know a dull chain will make crooked cuts. The key is razor sharp chains all the time. 2 chains in 10 years dosen't sound good to me. I do 2 chains a year. A new chain on my 10 year old Stihl and the saw cuts like it did when it was new. I have no problem pulling the 18" chain fully buried in oak. I thought the pro version was worth the extra money.

If you tow the splitter make sure you put in a gas line shutoff and run the carb out of gas. The bouncing will run the gas in the bowl into the cylinder causing hydrolock. Don't ask how I know.


----------



## Fiziksgeek (Jun 15, 2012)

The 350 was used occasionally over the years, spurts here and there. Much more in the past couple years. It stated cutting very crooked, so I replaced the chain first. Still cut crooked, so I replaced the bar. I know you can dress the bar to true it up, but probably beyond my skill, and bars are not that expensive! Cut nice and straight, and still decent for what it is, but try to bury it in a 16" ash, and can't put any real pressure on it at all or it just stops the chain...

So I ended up buying a 562. Had been there before, but went back to the dealer and held the 562 and the 372. The 372 just felt big, and although useful right now, it would be way overkill for 99% of what I do. So to save a couple pounds and dollars, I went with the 562, stuck with the 20" bar. Going to hold off on a larger bar until I run into something I really just cant cut any other way. Already ran a tank through it!! Much more power, runs nice and smooth, cut at least 1/3 of the stack, small stuff and a couple of the bigger logs up to ~32 inches, no problems at all. Used the money saved to pick up a 60" cant hook....can't believe I didn't buy one before!! With a little luck, I'll get it all cut this weekend.


----------



## Fiziksgeek (Jun 15, 2012)

The dealer I go to sells Timberwolf splitter...had a TW-P1 and a TW-5 in the show room. Both looked awesome, just dreaming really. One of the local rental places has a 26 ton Iron and Oak splitter for ~$90/day. So I think I will get everything cut up and rent it for a day. Hoping I can get it all cut in a day with a couple helpers. Gonna hold off on buying a splitter for now.


----------



## DexterDay (Jun 15, 2012)

Nice .... That is a Good saw. My 036 is a lil old and the new 562 will beat it in weight and quickness in the cut.  Also a little sexy, I'm not gonna lie. My Bro-in-law is gonna get a 28" skip tooth for his, but currently has a 20" on it also. 

Glad your happy with it..... It will handle 95% of anything you see. 

(Click to enlarge)


----------



## HittinSteel (Jun 15, 2012)

Great choice. Wish I was closer, I'd put a 24" bar on my 394XP and let you noodle those big rounds while I test drove the 562


----------



## bogydave (Jun 16, 2012)

Sweet.
My guess is that you'll love running your new saw. 
Gonna have to work hard to stop the chain in a 16" ash log. 

What kind of chain did they set it up with? & Did you get an extra chain thrown in with the deal?


----------



## Fiziksgeek (Jun 16, 2012)

I wimped out and went with the standard "safety chain" 3/8, .058, whatever comes in the "kit" ...this probably show my inexperience, but I guess I was thinking let me just go with the safety chain until I get used to the bigger more powerful saw. It seems to be working just fine for now! Starting to cut, most of the wood does not appear to be oak now, elm maybe?

He did give me a discount on the 60" cant hook, so I was not expecting a second chain thrown in.

What chain would you guys recommend for a experienced homeowner on a 20" bar with the 562?

If I get a 24" bar for occasional use on bigger stuff, what bar and what chain?


----------



## KarlP (Jun 16, 2012)

Next time Bailey's has a free shipping week, I'd pickup up a few of their Woodland Pro brand chisel chains.  In your case  -  http://baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=WPL+30RC72

Its a great store, but their shipping charges have gone WAY up over time.


----------



## JDC1 (Jun 16, 2012)

Fiziksgeek said:


> I wimped out and went with the standard "safety chain" 3/8, .050, whatever comes in the "kit" ...this probably show my inexperience, but I guess I was thinking let me just go with the safety chain until I get used to the bigger more powerful saw. It seems to be working just fine for now! Starting to cut, most of the wood does not appear to be oak now, elm maybe?
> 
> He did give me a discount on the 60" cant hook, so I was not expecting a second chain thrown in.
> 
> ...


----------



## MasterMech (Jun 16, 2012)

Fiziksgeek said:


> The 350 was used occasionally over the years, spurts here and there. Much more in the past couple years. It stated cutting very crooked, so I replaced the chain first. Still cut crooked, so I replaced the bar. I know you can dress the bar to true it up, but probably beyond my skill, and bars are not that expensive! Cut nice and straight, and still decent for what it is, but try to bury it in a 16" ash, and can't put any real pressure on it at all or it just stops the chain...
> 
> So I ended up buying a 562. Had been there before, but went back to the dealer and held the 562 and the 372. The 372 just felt big, and although useful right now, it would be way overkill for 99% of what I do. So to save a couple pounds and dollars, I went with the 562, stuck with the 20" bar. Going to hold off on a larger bar until I run into something I really just cant cut any other way. Already ran a tank through it!! Much more power, runs nice and smooth, cut at least 1/3 of the stack, small stuff and a couple of the bigger logs up to ~32 inches, no problems at all. Used the money saved to pick up a 60" cant hook....can't believe I didn't buy one before!! With a little luck, I'll get it all cut this weekend.
> 
> View attachment 68734





Fiziksgeek said:


> The dealer I go to sells Timberwolf splitter...had a TW-P1 and a TW-5 in the show room. Both looked awesome, just dreaming really. One of the local rental places has a 26 ton Iron and Oak splitter for ~$90/day. So I think I will get everything cut up and rent it for a day. Hoping I can get it all cut in a day with a couple helpers. Gonna hold off on buying a splitter for now.





Fiziksgeek said:


> I wimped out and went with the standard "safety chain" 3/8, .050, whatever comes in the "kit" ...this probably show my inexperience, but I guess I was thinking let me just go with the safety chain until I get used to the bigger more powerful saw. It seems to be working just fine for now! Starting to cut, most of the wood does not appear to be oak now, elm maybe?
> 
> He did give me a discount on the 60" cant hook, so I was not expecting a second chain thrown in.
> 
> ...


 
I'll forgive you for buying a Husky if we get a few pics and perhaps a vid of that 562XP shredding wood. (I'm a closet 562XP fan. )

Great opportunity you have to test drive those splitters. Timberwolf is widely regarded as one of if not the best in the business. As you've already seen, their machines are over the top with a price tag to match. Having the I & O to test drive will prove just how much splitter $2K will buy.

As far as your chain goes most safety chains out there today cut pretty decent so long as the nose of the bar isn't buried in the wood. For replacements, I'd try to get a couple Stihl 33RSC-72 chains for that saw. Don't worry, the better chain won't bite you, IMO it's just as "safe" as what you're running now, kinda like a sharp knife being safer than a dull one. And nobody will tease you for running Stihl chain on a Husky (Common practice around here and other chainsaw fan sites). The best chains for one of the best 60cc saws out there.

For a 24" bar I'd stick with the Stihl chain (33RSC-84 I believe, the number of links may be different but the chain type should always be 33RSC) on a Oregon Powermatch bar.  (Oregon makes Husky's OEM bars.)  Maybe explore a lightweight bar option for a 24" on a 562XP?


----------



## bogydave (Jun 16, 2012)

Read the data on the bar. gotta know if it's .050 or .058. gauge (width of chain grove).  (most common is .050)
The specs for .050 & .058 are both 3/8 pitch (some call it .375)
Then you need how many Drive Links are on the chain. (Usually a Husq 20" is 72 DL)

I like a full (round) chisel for fast cutting if your saw has enough power to  run it (AND YOURS DOES)!

Stihl  popular full chisel number#  :  33 RS 72  (for my 20" Husq which is a .050 gauge )
(the first # , (3)  is 3/8" pitch-- 2nd # (3) is .050 (* **if your bar is .058 this # will be a 5 ***)   
R is  chain type  (Sthil Rapid) , the S is cutter shape  -- S for chisel.  (This is sometimes followed by a special identifier for various chains)  & 72 for number of Drive links

Popular Oregon  chain is the LGX full chisel :  72LGX-72  (first 72 is .050 gauge, LGX full chisel, the 72 for the number of drive links)
If *your bar is .058 then 73LGX* + number of Drive links)
LPX is also a good Oregon chain, some anti kick back features but a full chisel

Reference for your saw at Oregon: select your saw for Oregon PN:
http://www.oregonchain.com/pro/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=OCS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG


----------



## Thistle (Jun 16, 2012)

If I had one of those new 562XP's,I'd stick a 28" .050 gauge bar on it w/ Oregon 72JGX93 DL Full Skip chain & be done with it.


----------



## kingquad (Jun 16, 2012)

Husky Techlite bars.  Really nice, but expensive.


----------



## Thistle (Jun 16, 2012)

kingquad said:


> Husky Techlite bars. Really nice, but expensive.


 
Are those the same as Oregon Reduced Weight bars with a different name? Center milled out,filled with aluminum for 25% weight reduction.Around $150 for 28" last I checked.Not supposed to take any abuse,easier to 'flex' & bend I've heard.


----------



## HittinSteel (Jun 16, 2012)

KarlP said:


> Next time Bailey's has a free shipping week, I'd pickup up a few of their Woodland Pro brand chisel chains. In your case - http://baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=WPL 30RC72
> 
> Its a great store, but their shipping charges have gone WAY up over time.


 
I have switched to northwood saw.....they have good prices on carleton chain and the shipping is reasonable


----------



## JDC1 (Jun 16, 2012)

Thistle said:


> Are those the same as Oregon Reduced Weight bars with a different name? Center milled out,filled with aluminum for 25% weight reduction.Around $150 for 28" last I checked.Not supposed to take any abuse,easier to 'flex' & bend I've heard.




I think they are 130 for 28" at bailey's.  25% lighter than a traditional bar.


----------



## kingquad (Jun 17, 2012)

Thistle said:


> Are those the same as Oregon Reduced Weight bars with a different name? Center milled out,filled with aluminum for 25% weight reduction.Around $150 for 28" last I checked.Not supposed to take any abuse,easier to 'flex' & bend I've heard.


No, I don't think so.  I've got one on order, but I won't be home to use it till September.  The reading I've done over on AS seem to suggest that they are a good product.  I do believe they are aluminum filled as you suggest, but I've seen nothing about flex or bending.  They are $130 through Baileys, I said they were expensive.  $100 for a 20".

I'll be glad to give a full report in September if you'd like.  I'm getting the 20" for my 365xt(probably wouln't flex like a 28").  I'm fairly new to felling(just started a couple years ago with my 450), so I haven't cut anything big enough to need a 28" bar.  I'm getting there though.  Pratice and Patience.


----------



## Fiziksgeek (Jun 17, 2012)

Happy Father's day to all the dads out there.

I spent ~1.5 hours Friday and ~2.5 hours yesterday. Have everything cut except a couple of ~24" x ~8' logs, and that one big 45" round. Have run 3 tanks of gas through the saw I think. Touched up the chain once. With a little luck, I'll finish up today in a couple more hours. The hardest part about working with the big wood is moving it around, worrying about the shifting pile, etc. I noodled a couple of the bigger rounds just to be able to move them around. No doubt I would be done already if this was a nice pile of medium sized straight logs. If I finish up today, I will try and reserve the log splitter next weekend.

That one large round, that the saw is sitting on in the pic above is going to be an issue. its 45" diameter and ~36"thick. Looks like its where the main trunk transitions to 3 larger branches, so its going to be tough cutting. Its heavy enough I can barely move it..I'll figure something out!


A guy down the street from me had some log length delivered. I was very jealous of his stack, looks to be 6-7 cords of long, straight, 16-24" logs. Then I found out he paid like 3x what i paid.


----------



## DexterDay (Jun 17, 2012)

Have you decided on Splitter??  Happy Fathers Day..


----------



## Fiziksgeek (Jun 17, 2012)

Well.....went out to finish up cutting today. Made 3 or 4 cuts in one of the 24" x 8' logs, shut the saw off to roll it over and finish off the cut. Couldn't get it started back up....Been running the same gas since I brought it home, also in my blower and weed wacker. I followed the manual for a warm start, pulled the choke lever up then pushed it down, hit the decompression lever, hit the primer a couple times..gave her a pull, nothing, pull pull pull, nothing. Let it sit for 30 minutes, did it again, nothing. Pulled the plug, nice and dry. Put it back in, tried again, nothing....hmmmmmmmm......


----------



## DexterDay (Jun 17, 2012)

Fiziksgeek said:


> Well.....went out to finish up cutting today. Made 3 or 4 cuts in one of the 24" x 8' logs, shut the saw off to roll it over and finish off the cut. Couldn't get it started back up....Been running the same gas since I brought it home, also in my blower and weed wacker. I followed the manual for a warm start, pulled the choke lever up then pushed it down, hit the decompression lever, hit the primer a couple times..gave her a pull, nothing, pull pull pull, nothing. Let it sit for 30 minutes, did it again, nothing. Pulled the plug, nice and dry. Put it back in, tried again, nothing....hmmmmmmmm......



In an earlier post...I noted about my BIL 562 being a PITA to start, now that its had a few tanks ran through it and is about broken in.... 

I have had 4 Husqvarnas and all start with 4 pulls (1 or 2 w/ choke on, and1 or 2 w/o choke).  

We had to pull the plug, to dry it out and then re-install and remove the air filter (easy breathing). Then it fires right up (after about 20 minutes of messing with it). Its a fantastic saw when it runs.


----------



## HittinSteel (Jun 17, 2012)

Hmmm, doesnt sound flooded.

If you only had it shut down for a short time, I wouldn't mess with the choke. Just flip the on switch and it should start with one pull.


----------



## Fiziksgeek (Jun 17, 2012)

HittinSteel said:


> Hmmm, doesnt sound flooded.
> 
> If you only had it shut down for a short time, I wouldn't mess with the choke. Just flip the on switch and it should start with one pull.


 
Thats what I did at first, but then when it didn't start, I went and grabbed the manual. When I couldn't get it going,  I went to the backyard and played with the kids (4.5 little girl, 11 month little boy), let it sit for a half hour and tried again, then gave up. Will give it a try when I get home from work tomorrow. If I still have issues, I'll stop by dealer Tuesday morning...


----------



## DexterDay (Jun 17, 2012)

HittinSteel said:


> Hmmm, doesnt sound flooded.
> 
> If you only had it shut down for a short time, I wouldn't mess with the choke. Just flip the on switch and it should start with one pull.



He pulled the choke, then pushed it down (doesn't that turn the choke off and only run the saw at 1/3-1/4 throttle?) 

I start mine with or without doing that (pulling choke, then switching off). They all start 1st pull after hot. Even if they have been off for about an hour, they still fire. 

My Bro-in-Law is gonna take his in. Its really a PITA. No matter who has tried.....  This auto-tune, may need some tuning?


----------



## Kenster (Jun 18, 2012)

That 20 ton Iron and Oak, or a 22 ton Huskee will handle everything for you.   If you get the occasional log that is way too big, just noodle it into halves and quarters.  
I would have gone with the Huskee 22 but found a 35 ton Huskee that was stored away brand new seven years ago.  It had never even had gasoline put into it.  Looked like it was on the showroom.  I bought it for $1000.   Added gas.  Fired right up on the second pull.  35 tons is overkill for my needs but I couldn't pass up the deal.


----------



## Splitter77 (Jun 18, 2012)

I agree about the Iron & Oak log splitters.  Top notch quality and American made.  Some here as well: http://www.woodsplittersdirect.com/index.php?cPath=2  Good reviews on the Tanaka chain saws as well.


----------



## Fiziksgeek (Jun 18, 2012)

Couldn't get the 562 to start today when I got home from work. Pressed the decompression, pushed the primer bulb, pulled the choke up, gave it a couple pulls, nothing, not even an attempt to start. Put the choke down, gave it several pulls, still nothing, pulled the choke back up, gave it several pulls, nothing....Usually, when the choke is up, I give a pull or two until I hear the saw want to start, then put it down, I am getting nothing at all. So, back to the dealer I go....


----------



## HittinSteel (Jun 18, 2012)

This is unfortunate......hopefully the dealer gets it squared away quickly for you


----------



## bogydave (Jun 19, 2012)

Fiziksgeek said:


> Couldn't get the 562 to start today when I got home from work. Pressed the decompression, pushed the primer bulb, pulled the choke up, gave it a couple pulls, nothing, not even an attempt to start. Put the choke down, gave it several pulls, still nothing, pulled the choke back up, gave it several pulls, nothing....Usually, when the choke is up, I give a pull or two until I hear the saw want to start, then put it down, I am getting nothing at all. So, back to the dealer I go....


 
Bummer, hope it's a simple fix. 
Like the gas tank is empty LOL 

Keep us posted with what they find. 
New saw needs a review.


----------



## Ashful (Jun 19, 2012)

Not saying this is your problem, but I always have problems using up the last of the "winter" gas in my chainsaws when warm weather hits. My observation is the same as yours, in that the saw will be running fine until I shut it down, and then I can't get it started again. Usually a 30 minute cool-down is all it takes to get going again (good reason to always carry two saws!), but it seems that's not your luck this time.

Around here, seems they're selling gas with a lower boiling point in winter than what they sell in the summer months. It causes no trouble for my string trimmer or handheld leaf blower, and is never a problem for any engine with fuel injection, but wreaks havoc on my chainsaws. I can actually hear that fuel boiling in the carburetor a few minutes after shutting a saw off.  Once I get a fresh tank of summer fuel in there... no problems.


----------



## Fiziksgeek (Jun 19, 2012)

Joful said:


> Not saying this is your problem, but I always have problems using up the last of the "winter" gas in my chainsaws when warm weather hits. My observation is the same as yours, in that the saw will be running fine until I shut it down, and then I can't get it started again. Usually a 30 minute cool-down is all it takes to get going again (good reason to always carry two saws!), but it seems that's not your luck this time.
> 
> Around here, seems they're selling gas with a lower boiling point in winter than what they sell in the summer months. It causes no trouble for my string trimmer or handheld leaf blower, and is never a problem for any engine with fuel injection, but wreaks havoc on my chainsaws. I can actually hear that fuel boiling in the carburetor a few minutes after shutting a saw off. Once I get a fresh tank of summer fuel in there... no problems.


 
Yeah, I've been using my other saw as well as my stihl BR600 blower this spring. I mix a gallon at a time, so I am on my 3dr new gallon this year already...


----------



## Fiziksgeek (Jun 19, 2012)

Dropped it off at the dealer this morning, went over the starting procedure I used, he went in the back, came out about 10 minutes later and said "whatever it is, its not good, you have zero compression"....


----------



## HittinSteel (Jun 19, 2012)

is the decomp sticking


----------



## JDC1 (Jun 19, 2012)

Fiziksgeek said:


> Dropped it off at the dealer this morning, went over the starting procedure I used, he went in the back, came out about 10 minutes later and said "whatever it is, its not good, you have zero compression"....





I am glad I don't have to rely on my equipment for a life or death situation.  I buy top of the line equipment, am not hard on it and maintain it properly and seem to be having a lot of problems lately as well.  My 562 recoil fell apart the first time out.  I hope they treat you right.


----------



## Fiziksgeek (Jun 19, 2012)

HittinSteel said:


> is the decomp sticking


 
Good question. It hasn't come up with my starting attempts, but I haven't heard it sputter at all, so I guess I wouldn't have expected it to pop up. Hope to hear from the dealer after lunch.


----------



## HittinSteel (Jun 19, 2012)

Keep us posted, this is very odd


----------



## bogydave (Jun 19, 2012)

That seems to be a reoccurring problem, the first year a new saw comes out, they have the consumer do the testing.
Hope they treat you right & find the problem & fix it so it lasts many years.
The Specs describe a really nice saw, BUT.............................. ?

Another problem is the dealers don't have allot of experience with it.  
How about they give you a new one, sent the old one back to the factory. Then you can test another new one for them


----------



## Fiziksgeek (Jun 19, 2012)

Just talked with the dealer. Looks like a lean seizure. Said the gas/oil mix looked a little light, but I know its right, I use Stihl Ultra synthetic individual bottles and mix in a one gallon can. Without me asking, he called Husqvarna and told them I didn't want this saw back and they approved a replacement. So, we'll give it another try...


----------



## Jags (Jun 19, 2012)

Whoohooo - new saw - again.


----------



## kingquad (Jun 19, 2012)

You mix is good, so it's got to be a failure of the autotune.  Lots of guys running this saw and the 555 version on AS, and this is the first I've seen of this kind of failure.  Sounds like their making it "right".  Keep us posted on how things are going with the new one.


----------



## bogydave (Jun 19, 2012)

Wish I could afford a new saw every other week. LOL 

Glad they are making it right.
Good post with good results with a good saw manufacturer.


----------



## Fiziksgeek (Jun 19, 2012)

The dealer fought for me, but it doesn't sound like there was too much push back from Husqvarna. Officially, the warranty would pay to repair the damage, new piston etc, but believing that the problem was caused by the carb, he wanted to replace that as well, and coupe other small things, which pushed the repairs over some cost threshold. Husqvarna agreed, with the only requirement being that they use the same bar and chain. Which is fine by me. The dealer sharpened the chain it for me while the saw was there!

The dealer is Newtown Power Equipment in Newtown, CT in case anyone is interested.

Unfortunately, I will probably not get to run the new saw until Friday or Saturday :-(


----------



## amateur cutter (Jun 19, 2012)

I'm thinking you found a very good dealer. Nice to hear you're being treated right by Husky & your dealer.I may yet buy a Husky sometime in this life. LOL A C


----------



## kingquad (Jun 20, 2012)

amateur cutter said:


> I'm thinking you found a very good dealer. Nice to hear you're being treated right by Husky & your dealer.I may yet buy a Husky sometime in this life. LOL A C


Don't do it or you'll be selling your Stihls


----------



## amateur cutter (Jun 20, 2012)

kingquad said:


> Don't do it or you'll be selling your Stihls


 

Hahaha, that's funny. I've got nothing against Husky saws at all, just that here, the Stihl dealer has the parts & very good service. I'm still looking for a couple of Husky's though, 395XP being the first on my list. A C


----------



## Fiziksgeek (Jun 23, 2012)

I did get everything cut up today. That one big piece was a pain in the you know what. I started by standing on top of it and noodling down the side. Once that got uncomfortable, I looked for a new plan. I ended up using my Milwaukee Model 40 (4 ton high light floor jack) to lift it high enough to tip it up on edge. Luckily it was on a small ~8" diameter branch,so I could get the jack under the edge.  I couldn't lift it from that low down, even with the 60" cant hook. Once on edge, I started noodling it, cut it into 5 wedges, then had to cut each wedge to length. Between cutting and moving it around, took me an hour to do that one piece!

So I have run ~3 tanks of fuel through the new saw, no problems yet. Just for piece of mind, I mixed up a new tank of mixed fuel, 89 octane and stihl ultra, before I started. I also ran into a rock embedded in the side of a log and killed my chain. Got to my local store (not the dealer where I purchased the saw) just before closing and picked up a new one, still husqvarna brand, but not safety chain this time! Worked great for noodling that big piece where the 20" bar was fully buried in it most of the time.


----------



## bogydave (Jun 23, 2012)

3 tanks of gas  & one chain to cut up that one big piece ?  LOL
Glad the 2nd new saw is working. Keep us posted.

The safety chains have their place but for cutting fire wood, full chisel:
Stihl 33RS or the  Oregon/Husq 72 LGX/H47 cut faster
(Oregon makes Husq chains & many times they're cheaper)
I found  Stihl 33RS for my 20" cheaper than  Oregon or Husq last winter. Some here say Stihl stay sharp longer, (not in rocks though) so I'm trying a couple
Some PN references for your chain.


----------



## Fiziksgeek (Jun 24, 2012)

bogydave said:


> 3 tanks of gas & one chain to cut up that one big piece ? LOL
> Glad the 2nd new saw is working. Keep us posted.
> 
> The safety chains have their place but for cutting fire wood, full chisel:
> ...


 

The 3 tanks were for all the remaining cutting I had to do, not just that big piece, and rocks will every time..I rolled the log and pulled it out, was about the size of a tennis ball...


----------



## Fiziksgeek (Jul 31, 2012)

So I have ~10 tanks through the new 562, no problems. Keeping my fingers crossed.

I also picked up some husqvarna H48 chain I believe. Much better than what I was using. Seems to stay good and sharp for a long time

On the splitter side, as I mentioned, I decided to rent a couple. Went with the closest power equipment place, they have a timberwolf p1. Nice and quiet, sipped gas all day long, decent power, though could have used a bit more now and then. And of course its horizontal only, which meant I had to do some extra noodling, which slowed me down a bit. Got 3+ cords split in 1 days by myself with a bit of help from the wife only.


----------

