# Tractor/implement recommendations



## semipro (Mar 30, 2009)

I very much hope to buy a compact utility tractor and attachments soon and would like to get some general advice on considerations WRT make, size, HP, attachments, etc. given the following list of considerations:

- Our 5 acres is hilly, rocky, and partially wooded. I need a stable tractor with 4WD. I've rolled my riding mower and though it was sort of exciting would like to avoid that kind of thing. 
- I need to mow grass, maintain my gravel driveway, bushhog, chip brush, move dirt, gravel, boulders, firewood so I"m thinking I"ll eventually need a FEL, belly mower, bush hog, PTO-powered chipper/shredder, rear blade, and maybe some forks for the front bucket (palletized firewood). 
- Local dealers are Deere, Kubota, New Holland/MF, Montana, Bobcat
- I would strongly prefer not to buy a Chinese-made tractor. Order of preference is US, Japan, Korea. I know my 1st choice is unreasonable (sadly)
- Once factory maintenance is complete I plant to maintain and repair the tractor and attachments myself if practical.
- I think I'd like a quick-detach loader bucket. I've heard/read that some loaders allow connection of readily-available skid-steer attachments.
- We try to heat with wood if possible so any insights on using the tractor and attachments for firewood handling would be greatly appreciated. 
- I will likely need a aux. front hydraulic connection for powered FEL attachments. I have a friend with a PowerTrac with lots of attachments. 
- I'm thinking 30 HP min. for the bush hog and chipper but am not certain about this. I plan to do a lot of chipping. I'm tired of burning brush and need the chips. 
- I'll need ROPS but need one that folds for work in the trees 
- I'm pretty sure I'm going Hydrostatic for FEL use.
- Financing is a factor and one of the reasons I hope to buy soon. 

Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer whether related to the purchase or what I plan to use the tractor/attachments for.

Thanks, Andy

PS: I originally posted this request at tractorbynet.com, a forum I highly recommend if you're into that sort of thing. I figured I'd tap into all the wisdom and humor that this board seems to offer also. I know at least a few here own tractors. The original post and responses are here if you're interested. 

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...new-tractor-new-board-advice.html#post1627474


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## Highbeam (Mar 31, 2009)

I'm also a TBN member and I'm sure you got a lot of info there. 

You can tip a tractor over on flat ground no sweat. The easiest way is to try and grab a heavy item with the side of the loader and it will pop the opposite wheel up and over. Other ways to tip are just setting your wheel into a hole. The best thing you can do to stay upright is to go slow and be careful. I've been up on three wheels several times and it isn't fun.

Mine is hydrostatic, 30 HP, and a FEL, ROPS folds, etc. You can do pretty much anything with a smaller machine that you can do with a larger one but it takes longer. For example, you can run a 5' brushhog easily with my 30 HP machine but you can run a 7 foot hog with a 45 HP tractor. You can run a chipper with a 6" throat with my 30HP but not with a 20 HP tractor.

Even the John Deeres are mostly foreign built. Yanmar makes their engines as I recall. 

For 5 acres as you describe I think a 30HP CUT is the right choice. Bellymowers are not common on these larger tractors.

Here's a pic of my Kioti CK30 with the stump it dug out using the equipment that you can see plus a saw one time.


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## sdrobertson (Mar 31, 2009)

I just bought a AGCO ST34a which is 33HP.  I looked at Case, Kubota, and TYM and went with the AGCO as it was over 1000 lbs heavier than the Kubota and the finanizing was 0% for 72 months.  I only have 14 hours on it so far, but I'm extremely happy with it.  AGCO is made by MF.  Good luck in your search as there is allot of choises to make and almost as many options out there.


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## fossil (Mar 31, 2009)

MF GC2310 TLB.  4WD, hydrostatic, mid & rear PTO's, 3PH.  Both the FEL & the Backhoe can be removed in ~5 minutes.  I didn't get the mower deck because I've nothing to mow.  22.5 hp (You may be looking for something bigger).  0%/72 mo financing through AGCO.  Made in Japan.  I'm very happy with it.  Rick

Edit to add:  ROPS folds down on this one, right where the lights are mounted.


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## burntime (Mar 31, 2009)

Rick, that MF is basically a legacy by simplicity isn't it?


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## fossil (Mar 31, 2009)

burntime said:
			
		

> Rick, that MF is basically a legacy by simplicity isn't it?



I dunno...they come with Iseki Matsuyama 3-cylinder diesels in 'em?  Rick


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## savageactor7 (Mar 31, 2009)

Semipro I'd recommend a 4WD tractor with a 3PH and FEL like a Kubota. 

Also consider substituting the MMM for a 3PH mower...a quicker put on/take off. that's means you'll take the time to remove it before going in the woods and dinging up the MMM.

MMM's are a better solution for estates...that's not you.

 Also think twice about the back hoe attachment. Yes they're nice to have but for the few projects when you really need one you can rent a real one that gets the job done in a day...rather than dicking around for 3 weeks. 

Those CUT backhoes are fine for puttering but frustrating to make any real production. Besides they can be a PITA to take off/put on until you do it about 20 or so times. So that limits where and what you can do with your CUT. 

You can do a lot of light excavating with a FEL...that's a must have piece of equipment imo....

...my 2 cents.

whoops almost forgot you live in a hilly area, means you have to wear seat belts for the ROPS to save you. Otherwise real bad things can happen if you do roll over without being strapped in.. Good luck.


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## Highbeam (Mar 31, 2009)

I agree, ditch the MMM. They are very expensive and machine specific, easy to smash and hard to hook up. A rear mount finish mower would be the superior if you need a finish mower. Really though, I mow lawns with a riding lawn mower and mow pasture or woods with a brush hog and a tractor. I have no need for a finish mower and don't know why you would need one on 5 acres. Consider trying the brush hog to mow the majority of your grass and then a mower up close. Once you set up the hog properly, it can mow really well. 

I also don't have a backhoe or support buying one. A hoe for a 30 HP tractor costs more than 50% of the entire tractor loader combo. Yes, they're like 6-8000$ and are nowhere near as capable as a rented case 580 or a hired excavator. A good sized excavator rents for about 200 dollars a day in my area and will outwork a small CUT backhoe anyday. I hire out the stump pulling and burning which is done by a large excavator.

I love hydrostatic transmissions. There is no reason to get a gear tranny except to save a few bucks. I can plow, disc, mow, load, till, and everything else with extreme precision and comfort without the headache of clutching, stalling, taking my hands off the wheel, or shifting. THe ability to creep up onto something with the loader and then reverse direction rapidly is fantastic.

You'll have to add that front hydro connection and by doing so you will not get a powertrac. The hydraulic pumps on the typical tractor are not nearly or robust or powerful as a powertrac or skidsteer. You can use the front hydraulics for a grapple which allows you to use your loader as a huge set of jaws to grab brush.

I trailer my tractor a lot to my remote 15 acre property where I clear, mow, and log with it. It weighs 4500 lbs and I use four wheel drive all the time. Almost nobody buys a 2wd tractor these days. That would be a bad decision.

Everybody likes pictures.


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## SolarAndWood (Mar 31, 2009)

Nice land and work as well highbeam.

I have a 3 pt hoe that came with my old 4wd 35hp Ford.  Even with its separate PTO pump, it is largely useless unless you have easy soil with few obstructions.  I have considered turning it into a splitter.  The FEL is a must and is a lot cheaper to do upfront as part of a package.  The 4 foot rototiller makes quick easy work of my spring garden prep/fall cleanup.  It is a very useful size machine.  It replaced a 25hp 2wd Kubota which was a great lawn mower but not useful for much more.  The 1 ton 2wd Kubota was an excellent machine but could not do what the 2 ton 4wd will.  As someone else said earlier, there aren't too many American tractors in this class and havent been for a while.  Even my 25 year old Ford was made in Japan.


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## RJP Electric (Mar 31, 2009)

Some excellent options here. My tractor is probably to big for your needs. It a a John Deere 110 TLB construction grade. It the size of the green Deere 4700 series. The Hydrostatic transmission is the way to go. Also a good idea to get the quick-detach loader bucket with optional front hydraulics. I bought a skidsteer trailer receiver plate from ebay and have a 3 point hitch log splitter with a 2X2 bar welded on it that slides into the plate. What a joy it is splitting wood, you can raise and lower it to any height. I had ears welded onto the plate for an old fisher plow that I use during the winter too connected to the hydraulics. My only complainant is if you get a backhoe attachment, you should consider having a thumb put on it for the moving of stumps and rocks, even a non hydraulic one would do great.


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## semipro (Apr 1, 2009)

Sincere thanks to all those that have posted so far in response.   I've got some reading to catch up on before responding with more questions. 

Andy


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## SolarAndWood (Apr 1, 2009)

RJP Electric said:
			
		

> My tractor is probably to big for your needs.



LOL, is there such a thing?  You might probably wouldn't mow a lawn with it, but  the 110 digs, loads, runs the 3 pt stuff and is a 40+ hp 4wd that you can tow with a pickup.  When you're ready to sell it in 20 years, shoot me an email.


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## MarcM (Apr 1, 2009)

As long as we're posting tractor porn-






Branson 3820i... so far so good, had it since December.  I know you don't have a dealer in the area... but Korean tractors, from what I've seen and read, are every bit as reliable and durable as Japenese tractors without the price markup.

The Branson is a very heavy tractor, made for farm use... but we looked at some made by Century/Long and they were all at least 500 lbs lighter and it showed, so remember, HP isn't everything, weight can also be a big factor, especially for using the FEL, and pulling stuff.  Obviously, yes, power is important for running the PTO, but don't let that be your only focus.






It really came into its own once we had the tires loaded.


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## Stephen in SoKY (Apr 3, 2009)

As long as we're posting tractor porn...... I bought my JD 2240 new in 1980. I only put the FEL on about once a year. Rears loaded, fronts on foam, with a full set of front suitcase weights. I took this photo yesterday while breaking a potato patch in the river bottom.


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## edinct (Apr 9, 2009)

here is my Kioti ck20shst, great little tractor, does everything I need on our 8 acre mini farm.


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## jimmiller2 (Apr 9, 2009)

I bought a Yanmar about three years ago. I have had no trouble with it (A YM2000 from a dealer who buys from agents in Japan) Very clean tractor showing 750 hours. I paid 2700 for tractor and for 3700 total got a bushhog and landscape scraper box. You probably already know this but if you buy a Yanmar buy a used one from Japan and not one that has been funneled thru some third world country and sold as "Reconditioned" Yanmar built smaller John Deere's for many years and still make their small diesel engines.

Jim Miller


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## flyingcow (Apr 13, 2009)

HP sounds about right. If you're worried about tipping, see how wide the wheels will set out. Heed the warnings about tipping over while using the FEL. Happens quicker than you think. Rear weights on 3pt important. ROPS and a seatbelt a must

But that all said, my small tractor is a MF180(74hp) with 7ft bush hog and my big one is a MF1135 (140hp) with a 9ft wide snowblower. Hopefully sell/trade for a 80 or 90 hp 4 wheeldrive. Financing is really good on this stuff.


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## semipro (Apr 16, 2009)

Thanks to all for the responses.  I'll post back when I have more questions or if I actually take the plunge and buy.


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## jebatty (Apr 19, 2009)

Lots of input here, so one more. I replaced my JD 50 with a Kubota L3400 (34hp), use clutch and shift, not hydrostatic, 4wd, industrial tires, FEL, 3pt, ROP. I added an accessory hydraulic for the rear, and then ran a set of lines to the front so that a 3rd line was available there as well. I'm now into my 5th year, and no problems of any kind, very satisfied. Principal uses: skidding and hauling logs out of the woods, loading logs onto a trailer, FEL bucket and grapple work, trail and brush mowing, plowing, discing, grading, and lots of misc. Attachments/accessories include block heater, FEL, bucket, grapple, pallet forks, brush mower, disc, 2 bottom plow, skids for 3pt (one for carrying stuff, one for counterweight), box blade, logging chains, seatbelt.

Highly recommend a Bobcat compatible quik-tach for the FEL. Makes it really fast and easy to change from bucket to grapple to pallet forks or any Bobcat-type equipment. Also highly recommend a counterweight for the 3pt. These tractors are relatively light and without a counterweight in the rear you don't have much rear traction or lifting capacity. Mine is a barrel filled with rocks and cement and mounted on a skid that the 3pt can pickup when needed.

The power is incredible, diesel fuel use is miserly, and SAFETY is the 800 lb gorilla. Can't over-emphasize safety because you can get yourself into a dangerous problem without even trying.


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## flyingcow (Apr 19, 2009)

jebatty makes a good suggestion,

depending on you area,  the block heater idea is a must. Even plugged in for 1 hour helps a lot. 2 or 3 hours is better, saves on batteries, starter, glow plugs, engine wear and tear. It's a cheap investment. They use a small amount of electricity, and I have the biggest one I can put on equipment when buying.


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## Highbeam (Apr 20, 2009)

Ooooh, Jebatty. You have a grapple. I would love to have a grapple. I made the mistake of non specifying the extra rear remote and the standard loader is nnot a quick attach SS style so I need to spend 500-700 bucks just to correct those mistakes but the grapple would be immensely useful in my logging and clearing adventures. 

I have no block heater and find that modern tractors with glow plugs and in reasonably moderate temps start up just fine. I have started mine up in the 20s without a heater but I do agree that the block heater makes it easier on the engine and I do use one in my diesel truck. My old international dozer from the 70s had no glow plugs and would start right up in below freezing weather without the plug. 

Just yesterday I fell and skidded 11 logs out of the woods. The last several were 70 feet tall and I skid them out one at a time with the entire branch system connected. I was using all 30 HP on the uphills.


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## Ducati996 (Jan 2, 2010)

Tractor porn is addictive - if you guys need more tractor porn
www.machineunderground.com  can also help with the affliction


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## colebrookman (Jan 3, 2010)

Ducati996 said:
			
		

> Tractor porn is addictive - if you guys need more tractor porn
> www.machineunderground.com  can also help with the affliction


Looks like a great web site, more time on the computer. :lol: The only other thing that I would add would be a cab if you get a fair amount of snow or even cold.  It sucks to plow in the snow and cold wind.  Be safe.
Ed


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## Ducati996 (Jan 4, 2010)

colebrookman said:
			
		

> Ducati996 said:
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> ...


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## kscowboy (Jan 4, 2010)

Wow i am out dated with my 1949 ford 9n with my 5 foot box blade(for the drive way) my 6 foot reversable blade, brush hog, three point scoop bucket but it get the job done most of the time


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## taxidermist (Jan 4, 2010)

MarcM said:
			
		

> As long as we're posting tractor porn-
> 
> Branson 3820i... so far so good, had it since December.  I know you don't have a dealer in the area... but Korean tractors, from what I've seen and read, are every bit as reliable and durable as Japenese tractors without the price markup.
> 
> ...



I have the 3510 branson and love it. I have had mine since 2003
Rob


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## Ducati996 (Jan 5, 2010)

taxidermist said:
			
		

> MarcM said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I would say it makes playmate of the month for TractorPoRn  
Nice rig, thanks for sharing!


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## semipro (Jan 26, 2010)

OP here.  I finally bought a JD 3032e with hydro and a FEL and rear blade.  I modified the rear blade for my 3 Point quick-attach and thought I was going to plow some snow from our long, curved, hilly driveway this winter.  I was real disappointed when I never made it out of my backyard after getting 16 inches of the white stuff.  I never got enough traction from the R4 tires to get though the high snow.  4WD and locking the differential didn't help enough.  I'm looking into chains now and looking forward to spring.


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## begreen (Jan 26, 2010)

Great thread. You guys are making me so jealous. We have only a couple acres, but I am doing enough terraforming and earth moving that a decent tractor with an FEL and a box scraper would really help. A post hole digger would be icing on the cake. I have seen some reasonable Kubota 23 hp sales on Craigslist. Is this a bad idea? At some point it would seem like a once every 3 year accessory is not justified.

If not, maybe Highbeam can point me to a decent dealer or two?


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## begreen (Jan 26, 2010)

kscowboy said:
			
		

> Wow i am out dated with my 1949 ford 9n with my 5 foot box blade(for the drive way) my 6 foot reversable blade, brush hog, three point scoop bucket but it get the job done most of the time



Flatlander


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## flyingcow (Jan 26, 2010)

flyingcow said:
			
		

> HP sounds about right. If you're worried about tipping, see how wide the wheels will set out. Heed the warnings about tipping over while using the FEL. Happens quicker than you think. Rear weights on 3pt important. ROPS and a seatbelt a must
> 
> But that all said, my small tractor is a MF180(74hp) with 7ft bush hog and my big one is a MF1135 (140hp) with a 9ft wide snowblower. Hopefully sell/trade for a 80 or 90 hp 4 wheeldrive. Financing is really good on this stuff.



My new one!


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## kartracer (Jan 27, 2010)

I bought a new kubota b7800 with fel,bush hog and potato plow when I built my house last year.I would really consider a hydrostat type transmission if you are doing any fel work,it makes it so much easier.The onle thing I don't like about my tractor is the 1/4 inching valve for the 3ph.It does everything I need on my little 10 acres.I think the kioti tractors are a good deal for what you get,but they are very heavy.The only reason I didn't go with the 20hp kioti was its  2 speed trans.


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## Hurricane (Jan 27, 2010)

Semipro said:
			
		

> OP here.  I finally bought a JD 3032e with hydro and a FEL and rear blade.  I modified the rear blade for my 3 Point quick-attach and thought I was going to plow some snow from our long, curved, hilly driveway this winter.  I was real disappointed when I never made it out of my backyard after getting 16 inches of the white stuff.  I never got enough traction from the R4 tires to get though the high snow.  4WD and locking the differential didn't help enough.  I'm looking into chains now and looking forward to spring.



I have gotten stuck in deep snow with my Kubota B7500 with turf tires. I have learned to use the fel to dig out in front of the machine before driving into it, I keep the bucket about 4 inches off the ground and clear out in front of me. My machine is in the back of my house and I need to get to the front to plow the driveway. I did not stay stuck for long I used the fel to push me back enough to get traction again. 



			
				BeGreen said:
			
		

> Great thread. You guys are making me so jealous. We have only a couple acres, but I am doing enough terraforming and earth moving that a decent tractor with an FEL and a box scraper would really help. A post hole digger would be icing on the cake. I have seen some reasonable Kubota 23 hp sales on Craigslist. Is this a bad idea? At some point it would seem like a once every 3 year accessory is not justified.
> 
> If not, maybe Highbeam can point me to a decent dealer or two?


I would be careful most of those decent priced compact tractors on CL are scams.


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## Highbeam (Jan 27, 2010)

I PMd BG with some local dealer info, we have a real good Kubota/Kioti dealer here in Puyallup (cool name eh?). Since we don't get much snow here in the puget sound area the tractor sets a good bit through the winter. I haul firewood with it mostly. My 30 HP Kioti has moved hundreds and hundreds of yard of material to level out land and create roads. I use the box blade for this along with the FEL to distribute gravel. My R4 tires work great in all but the muddiest conditions. 4wd is a must for earth moving.


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## dogwood (Feb 5, 2010)

Semipro, Do you think you should have gone with a bigger, heavier tractor so you could plow snow too. As you well know there's quite a bit here in Western Virginia now and more expected this weekend. I'm just beginning to research what model to get for my ten acres in Botetourt County. Sound like we have similar needs in a tractor. I enjoyed reading and learned a lot from this and your linked threads on TractorByNet. You and others mentioned every town and dealer around here. Bought my John Deere riding mower up in Buchanan, which dealer was mentioned. Small world. Soon as my Solo Innova is paid off getting a tractor is next up. 

Mike


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## semipro (Feb 5, 2010)

dogwood said:
			
		

> Semipro, Do you think you should have gone with a bigger, heavier tractor so you could plow snow too. As you well know there's quite a bit here in Western Virginia now and more expected this weekend. I'm just beginning to research what model to get for my ten acres in Botetourt County. Sound like we have similar needs in a tractor. I enjoyed reading and learned a lot from this and your linked threads on TractorByeNet. You and others mentioned every town and dealer around here. Bought my John Deere riding mower up in Buchanan, which dealer was mentioned. Small world. Soon as my Solo Innova is paid off getting a tractor is next up.
> 
> Mike



Yeah, I hear you're due for more snow than we are. I like snow but its starting to wear out its welcome. 

I've given this a lot of thought.  I found buying a tractor to be fairly complex.  There's a lot of give and take.  For example, I could have gone with ag tires instead of the R4s but I'd be tearing up my lawn the rest of the year with the big ag tire bars.  Weight I can add and plan to.  Tires are already filled with methanol.  I didn't want to go bigger because I want to maintain wooded areas.  The tractor I ended up with does not have individual brakes for the rear wheels.  I knew this before I bought it but didn't think I'd need the separate rear brakes.  A friend has told me that he uses the split brakes when he plows snow.  

I'm pretty confident I could do some snow moving if I had some chains.  My mower does and it makes a world of difference.  Consider too that I'm relatively new to this.  I've actually operated a lot heavy machinery but haven't spent much time on tractors in the snow.  I'm not quite committed to messing up the pretty paint job yet especially as long as my old Yukon is making it in and out through the snow on the driveway. 

IMHO the hydrostatic trans is well worth the cost in hilly terrain.  I had many, including a salesman try to talk me into a shuttle shift and I tried them all out.  In the end I think the Hydro makes operation on hills safer and easier.  

Have fun looking.  It took me 10 years to get mine.  The search is part of the fun!


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## dogwood (Feb 5, 2010)

Semipro, sounds like you've learned a lot about tractors. How did you research tractor buying? I know nothing about them and have to learn as much as I can before making a purchase. What made you finally decide on the make and model and accessories you did? What I'll need mine to do is turn over the soil in my four or so acres of open pasture, so I can replant orchard grass there, then be able to mow the pasture and orchard, and remaining acres of woods. I'd also like to be able to move dirt around some to level off my uneven front yard, as well as plow snow off my 400' driveway. Of course there will be miscellaneous tasks too, like dragging cut logs out of the woods. My wife now informs me we will need to get the driveway paved, buy some furniture and a new refrigerator first, so it looks like I'll have some time to study this thoroughly. I have managed to get a hydraulic log splitter, a new Stihl chainsaw, a wood gassification boiler and related plumbing parts, and a new woodshed last year, so to be fair it is her turn. 

Mike


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## semipro (Feb 5, 2010)

dogwood said:
			
		

> Semipro, sounds like you've learned a lot about tractors. How did you research tractor buying? I know nothing about them and have to learn as much as I can before making a purchase. What made you finally decide on the make and model and accessories you did? What I'll need mine to do is turn over the soil in my four or so acres of open pasture, so I can replant orchard grass there, then be able to mow the pasture and orchard, and remaining acres of woods. I'd also like to be able to move dirt around some to level off my uneven front yard, as well as plow snow off my 400' driveway. Of course there will be miscellaneous tasks too, like dragging cut logs out of the woods. My wife now informs me we will need to get the driveway paved, buy some furniture and a new refrigerator first, so it looks like I'll have some time to study this thoroughly. I have managed to get a hydraulic log splitter, a new Stihl chainsaw, a wood gassification boiler and related plumbing parts, and a new woodshed last year, so to be fair it is her turn.
> 
> Mike



I have learned a lot but I'm convinced I haven't scratched the surface yet.  I'd suggest you check out these forums for good advice from people who have used tractors quite a bit: 
www.tractorbynet.com and www.mytractorforum.com.  The folks there have been real helpful.  

My advice, works backwards.  Define what you want to do and figure out what implements you need to do the work.  Then choose a tractor  that will handle those implements and your specific requirements.  I tried to stay with the major brands and avoided Chinese and Korean tractors.  That's my personal preference.  I wanted to buy as much American made as possible.  I wanted at least 30 HP on a small frame tractor that could get into tight spaces.  I also wanted one with a relatively low center of gravity for stability on hills.  I've rolled equipment on hills and want to avoid that in the future.  

It will help to think about the tractor as a mobile power source.  You can buy 3 point hitch mounted splitters, generators, chippers, etc. and not have so many infernal combustion engines around to maintain.  At last count I had 20.  That's a lot to keep up with.  Better to maintain fewer if possible.  

You'll want to find a good reputable dealer that's been around a while.  Dealer support is important.  A good dealer will encourage you to try our their tractors.  Some will even let you try them out at home 1st before buying, mine did.  

Sounds like you'll need at least 30 HP and some good traction for ground breaking.  You'll probably want ag tires, not R4s or turf tires.  You'll also want to figure out how to move firewood around.  That's not as simple as it sounds.  Some put wood on pallets and use their front end loader or rear pallet forks to move it around.  Other use boxes mounted to the 3 point hitch.  Some use the front bucket.  I haven't decide on this and have meant to post here to see what others recommend.  You can move snow with a loader but a rear blade works better.  You can level ground with a loader but a box blade works better.  Even so, I feel the FEL is a must have.  You can do a lot with it.    It  sounds like any of the available transmission options will work for you, shuttle shift, gear, hydro.  Try them all out and see what you like.  Shuttle and hydro are good for FEL work.  Straight gear or shuttle might be better than hydro for lots of ground breaking.  Hydro sucks away some of the power that would otherwise go to wheels or implements.  

Have fun with it! Let us know what you get.


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## dogwood (Feb 6, 2010)

Thanks for the info. I've registered for both forums you suggested. I'll have to learn to speak tractor language, first it seems starting with all the acronyms. I figured out FEL means front end loader, the rest will have to come with time. Good advice is hard to come by so thanks for yours. I'll save your suggestions in a new file devoted to my future tractor purchase. I like the working backwards approach too. Enjoy the snow.

Mike


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## RobC (Feb 14, 2010)

Didn't read all the responses but if your going to work in the woods, or any place not reasonably flat you don't want anything under the tractor. You want to hang everything off the rear 3 point hitch. Plus when you engage the PTO you can only run 1 implement at a time, so if you have something hung on the belly ????
Rob


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## dogwood (Feb 14, 2010)

Thanks for the tip Rob. Makes perfect sense. I'll add it to my list. I suppose I could mow the pasture with a bush hog anyway. 

Mike


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## flyingcow (Feb 15, 2010)

dogwood said:
			
		

> Thanks for the tip Rob. Makes perfect sense. I'll add it to my list. I suppose I could mow the pasture with a bush hog anyway.
> 
> Mike



Bush hog with new knives or ones that are sharpened properly makes a really nice cut.


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