# Buy Tree Length Logs or Buy Already Split firewood



## isipwater (Oct 3, 2013)

Hi,

As a new wood burner I am looking for some advice.

Here is some background:

I am trying to get 3 seasons ahead, as recommended by many on this forum.
I have never split firewood before.
I am in good physical shape.
I do have some spare time.
I anticipate using 2 cords per year, so I want to get 6 cords of wood stacked and seasoning.
Here are my questions:

1) Should I buy tree length logs at $100 per cord and buck and split them myself.  I would have to rent the splitter. I found this one at a local tool rental shop for $85/day.  It looks like is has a four-way blade:






2) Or, should I just buy already split firewood for $250 per cord?

3) How long should it take me to buck, split and stack 6 cords of wood with the above splitter? Is this possible with renting this splitter for one day.

4) Is there any other equipment that I would need besides a chainsaw and a splitter to buck and split my own firewood?

5) When is the best time of year to buck and split wood?  If I can't get it done in the fall, will winter be alright?

Any other advice on this matter is appreciated!

Thanks!


----------



## mustash29 (Oct 3, 2013)

.....and a log lifter.  Nice looking splitter for the rental fee.  Possibly a Timberwolf.

Personally, bite the bullet and buy a splitter, it will last you a VERY long time.  When I started out, I limited myself to wood < 12" diameter for ease of splitting, and I avoided all knots, etc.  All I had was a maul, sledge and "wood grenade" 4 way wedge.  Over the years wood burning matured from just fires on my days off to more of a 24/7 thing anytime it's below 45 deg out.

I've thrown 24" dia x 20" long stuff on my 31 ton MTD splitter and it simply eats it up.  When I get in the "zone" I can easily cut, split, haul a short distance and stack a cord a day with a saw, splitter, lawn tractor and wagon.  I also have 8000 lb winches on 2 of my vehicles which makes it very easy to drag stuff off the pile, etc.

I've ordered tri-axel loads and full tractor trailer loads.  It's nice to walk out back and work a while, come inside for break / lunch and not have to beat your truck up hauling it around.  Also in the event of a mechanical malfunction, you are only feet away from your supply of spare parts, tools, and if things really go awry and put you out of production for the rest of the day, you are close to the adult beverages as well.  LOL.

If you are a devout DIY'er, buy the tools and get a routine going.  If you have lots of other things (hobies, projects, childrens activities, etc) you may be strapped for time and the cost of cut / split / delivered may be worth it.  It all depends.

For me, I sit behind a console full of PC's all day, I enjoy the sweat, work, execrcise, fresh air, etc.

Here's my setup:  https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/woody-mustash.110700/


----------



## curtis (Oct 3, 2013)

1. Do you have a chainsaw already? Where I'm at I can get logs delivered for 70/cord.

2. 250/cord is pretty steep again where I'm at you can get a cord for around $180. Where are you located?

3. With a chainsaw it takes me a solid 3 hours to cut and split a cord of wood. I would say if you had it all cut up it would take 9-10 hours of splitting. So maybe 2 days would be best.

4. Besides safety equipment no.
5. Anytime is a good time. I like to do it in the fall or spring just because of the outside temp for working in.


----------



## isipwater (Oct 3, 2013)

curtis said:


> 1. Do you have a chainsaw already? Where I'm at I can get logs delivered for 70/cord.
> 
> 2. 250/cord is pretty steep again where I'm at you can get a cord for around $180. Where are you located?
> 
> ...



I live in Southeastern, MA

I do not have a chainsaw but plan to rent or buy one.

Does your 3 hours per cord involve using a 2 or 4 way splitter?

thanks


----------



## weatherguy (Oct 3, 2013)

With that disparity between split and log length I'd buy a truck load (7-8 cords), a chainsaw, get it all cut to length and rent a splitter for 2 days. In this part of the state I can get $100 cord log length or $135/150 split so the decision is easy. Try it you may found like a lot of us you like doing it and look around for a splitter, if you're burning full time you may go through more than 2 cords a year, I go through 4.
Now that I'm 3 years ahead I like to scrounge wood (craigslist, word of mouth, etc..) and cut and split at my leisure. I would say most of us like to do the work in the spring or fall, too hot in the summer, I'd rather cut and split when its 15 degrees than when its 90.


----------



## WiscoWoodman (Oct 3, 2013)

Since you're in good shape and assuming you have a saw, id vote to get the $100 per cord logs, cut with saw, buy Fiskars x27 axe, and split by hand. Since you dont need wood for years you have time to conveniently split wood at leisure. It's good exercise and stress relief.  Some rounds like red oak and ash dont take too much longer to split by hand versus use of a splitter if you have a good setup/ process. Spend the $800 - $900 you just saved wisely. 

Just make sure you don't buy any Elm... Too much of a pain to split by hand.


----------



## WiscoWoodman (Oct 3, 2013)

Looks like a lot of that "savings" is going toward a new saw. Enjoy.


----------



## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Oct 3, 2013)

I was you just 8 months ago, due to sandy, I have been able to find my wood. I got my insert in February, I had to buy a face cord, to get me through the season, but since then I have acquired about 6 cord on my property, about 4 1/2 CSS with the rest that is ready to go to the splitter when I get the time, if you are not able to scrounge free wood, then I say buy the logs, I hand split over 3 cords by hand with axe and i loved every minute of it, kind of got axe arm from it, worse then tennis elbow due to the long term pain that is involved, but now that I have my new splitter, things are still going great, getting it done as I have time. I found buying a splitter is the way to go for me, I wanted to rent it but I'm glad that I bought it, I can split what I want when I want...


----------



## Hogwildz (Oct 3, 2013)

My vote is buy a chainsaw, splitter and pole length load of wood.
Don't forget protective gear.
The cost up front will be savings merely a couple years or so down the road.


----------



## save$ (Oct 3, 2013)

If I read this right, you have no experience.  So IMO I would buy this years wood.  If all goes well, hook up with a buddy who does the cutting up and splitting.   Get some experience working along side someone who can show you the ins and outs. Two cord a year isn't a whole lot of splitting.   I used to rent a splitter and run through 5 cord in one day.  (Family event).    A chains saw is a good investment.  But two cord seems a small amount to invest in that much equipment.


----------



## lumbering on (Oct 3, 2013)

I hand spilt 30 to 60 minutes a day.  Its exercise. And it's productive. But I don't mind taking my time with it.


----------



## Applesister (Oct 3, 2013)

You are asking a bunch of drug addicts if you should buy drugs.


----------



## paul bunion (Oct 4, 2013)

Here's my vote.




Get yourself a Fiskars X27 splitting axe for now.  You will be suprised how easy it is, especially if your logs are straight and clear of knots..  You can split clear wood as fast or faster than with a splitter. (till you get into the crotches that is.)    Yes, eventually you will want a splitter but it isn't as essential as a chain saw.   I split many a log load by hand,  didn't get a splitter till this year.

As for the time question: With every thing else going on in life it took me 2 months to get this load (about 6 cords) cut/split/stacked.

Keep in mind that processing a log load will really mess up your yard.  It will trash your lawn if you have to work there.  In order to preserve what's left of mine I waste a lot of time rolling the logs into my driveway for cutting so that it is possible to clean it up.  And then even more effort is wasted getting the rounds out of the way to cut the next log.


----------



## Hogwildz (Oct 4, 2013)

In Mass , if your planning on doing any 24/7 burning, your going to need more than 2 cords.


----------



## Woody Stover (Oct 4, 2013)

Hogwildz said:


> In Mass , if your planning on doing any 24/7 burning, your going to need more than 2 cords.


I probably use about two cords a year but it's a small house. I have to stack about five or six a year though, all told.

I like splitting by hand but I over-did it a while back and aggravated an old muscle injury between my spine and shoulder blade, because I can still feel it, months later. But it sounds like you're younger and more resilient, so I say have at it with a maul. Toss any crotches to the side and rent a splitter later for those.


----------



## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Oct 4, 2013)

So you need to get to 6 cords, if you have nothing, I would buy 2 split, buy a chainsaw, not rent,  and buy a fiskars for now, get the logs delivered and get to it as you can, this is a long term hobby that you picked up. Your young and strong so I don't think buying 6 cord split is the way to go


----------



## isipwater (Oct 4, 2013)

Thanks to everyone for your input.  It seems that the consensus is that I:


Should go with the tree length logs for $100/cord as opposed to $250/cord split
Try out splitting by hand first with a Fiskars before renting or purchasing a splitter.  I already have  a Fiskars x36, so I can give it a try. If it seems too much I can always switch to a splitter later.
Should buy not rent a chainsaw.
The good news is that I already have wood for this winter.  I am just trying to be better prepared for future winters!

Any recommendations on chainsaws?  I have never owned one before. How about electric vs gas saws? Seems like this one gets lots of good reviews on amazon:





http://www.amazon.com/WORX-WG304-1-...&qid=1380889475&sr=1-3&keywords=worx+chainsaw


----------



## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Oct 4, 2013)

I think your on your way with the plan....I say stay away from electric chain saw, get at least an 18 inch bar. I got an echo 18" at HD for$299 that works well, if I had the money, I would go for a 20" stihl. Good luck and have fun....


----------



## WoodPorn (Oct 4, 2013)

Don't waste your time with that Works saw, You'll beat the piss out of it in no time. get yourself a mid size Stihl or Husky (or whatever you can afford)
I have learned the hard way, and I have learned volumes from this site and it's helpful members.

Just my .02....
Get yourself 2 cd split for next year, get it stacked, and start to build your arsenal with a saw (Necessary), an axe/maul/wedges (necessary), and eventually a splitter.
Is this to be your primary source of heat? I'm also in S.E. MA and 2 cd would last me about 1.5 months, maybe 2.

We won't even go into equipment for scrounging....(yet)


----------



## Applesister (Oct 4, 2013)

Having an electric saw is good. They cut slower but can be handy to have on hand. They are much safer on a ladder when you are pruning yard trees, for example.


----------



## WoodPorn (Oct 4, 2013)

Applesister said:


> Having an electric saw is good. They cut slower but can be handy to have on hand. _*They are much safer on a ladder*_ when you are pruning yard trees, for example.


 
Why would an electric be any safer than a gas?


----------



## Bigg_Redd (Oct 4, 2013)

isipwater said:


> Hi,
> 
> As a new wood burner I am looking for some advice.
> 
> ...



1) If you are healthy and burning only 2 cord per year just split as you buck, with a Fiskars.

2) If you have to buy firewood buy it as unprocessed as possible.  6 x $100 = $600.  6 x $250 = $1500.  For $900 you can buy a very nice saw that will never wear out bucking 2 cord per year, and still have a couple hunj in your pocket.

3) I could probably buck, split (by hand) and stack 6 cord in. . . 18-20 hours broken up over 3 days

4) That up to you

5) I process wood year round


----------



## Applesister (Oct 4, 2013)

WoodPorn said:


> Why would an electric be any safer than a gas?


I think its a girl thing, actually. And "safer" isnt probably the correct word. Maybe "convenient".
I cannot pull start saws holding them in my left hand and pulling starter cord with right hand. I have to put the saw on the ground and hold it down with my foot to pull start. 
So I climb ladders with gas saws running.
 Whereas an electric saw starts running at the squease of the trigger.
Its simply a physical strength issue.


----------



## WoodPorn (Oct 4, 2013)

Applesister said:


> I think its a girl thing, actually. And "safer" isnt probably the correct word. Maybe "convenient".
> I cannot pull start saws holding them in my left hand and pulling starter cord with right hand. I have to put the saw on the ground and hold it down with my foot to pull start.
> So I climb ladders with gas saws running.
> Whereas an electric saw starts running at the squease of the trigger.
> Its simply a physical strength issue.


 
Understood, You're better off working with what is at your comfort level.


----------



## Applesister (Oct 4, 2013)

I know thats not OSHA approved but...they are my trees and my ladders and my saws. Its probably why orchards have switched to the smaller hybrid grafted trees over the old style orchard trees.
Workers Compensation.
Anyway...we have hand saws, electric, battery powered, PTO powered pole saws, gas powered...
My preference is the top handled gas saws.


----------



## Machria (Oct 4, 2013)

One REALLY important thing to consider that nobody has mentioned.  You thinking about, looking at, and adding up #'s for 1 to 3 years of wood/work/$.    BUT, if you will start burning primarily every year, you should instead think about LONG TERM, 10 or 20 years, especially since you said your "young".  So if you think short term, 2 or 3 years from now (which will come VERY quickly), you will be in the same predicament and be posting the same questions.  So what you should be thinking about is how will I do this now, AND keep it going each year for 10 or 20 years.

In that case, buy a saw, and buy a splitter.  IT will cost you more upfront, but in the log run will save you money.  And then you have the convienience of bucking and splitting whenever you want or have free time instead of doing it all at once....

I bought a 22 ton splitter recently, and am now kicking myself for not buying it a long time ago....


----------



## Waulie (Oct 4, 2013)

My vote:

Buy logs.  Buy Chainsaw.  Hand Split.

But, I'm cheap.


----------



## jeffesonm (Oct 4, 2013)

I've got 10+ cords split all by hand over the last year or so... if you've got the time, and you're in decent shape, and you like doing it, use the Fiskars.  Get lots of wood and either chainsaw or just discard the crotch pieces... not worth the energy.


----------



## daveswoodhauler (Oct 4, 2013)

Note sure if this has been asked yet, but here goes:

Have you ever operated a chain saw before? (Meaning, for at least a few hours or so?)

Reason I ask is that you may want to start of a bit smaller to see if it works for you....i.e. Not being completely overwhelmed when the tri axle drops off 8 cords of log length in your yard.....I can't imagine buying log length and splitting with a Fiskars. Also, you need to look at the time involved. (I have three young kids, so time is a big factor for me)

Cutting and splitting 8 log cords even with a good saw and splitter is a ton of work.....it might not be the right choice to jump all in. Good luck


----------



## isipwater (Oct 4, 2013)

Bigg_Redd said:


> 1) If you are healthy and burning only 2 cord per year just split as you buck, with a Fiskars.
> 
> 2) If you have to buy firewood buy it as unprocessed as possible.  6 x $100 = $600.  6 x $250 = $1500.  For $900 you can buy a very nice saw that will never wear out bucking 2 cord per year, and still have a couple hunj in your pocket.
> 
> ...



I like your logic.  Save $900 by getting tree length logs, get a solid and reliable chainsaw, and try splitting the wood with a mau!


----------



## isipwater (Oct 4, 2013)

I do have three small kids; I do have time but not a ton of it.  This is a difficult choice.  I suppose I shall give it some more thought. Everyone here is so helpful! Thanks.


----------



## paul bunion (Oct 4, 2013)

isipwater said:


> I do have three small kids; I do have time but not a ton of it.  This is a difficult choice.  I suppose I shall give it some more thought. Everyone here is so helpful! Thanks.



You don't need a ton of time all at once,  an hour on an evening, a few hours on Saturday morning, and after a few months it will all be processed.    Remember stacking time will be the same no matter what route you take.


----------



## Paulywalnut (Oct 4, 2013)

You seem to be young enough to handle c/s/s by hand. Buy what equipment you can. if this is something you think you're going to enjoy, invest in a splitter. I hand split with the maul and sledge and chopper 1 for 25 years. I get my splitter tomorrow. My left thumb and wrist are always sore. It will be a help with a splitter but I will still split some... especially red oak.


----------



## peakbagger (Oct 4, 2013)

Buy  cut and split to start out and try to find some classes on proper chainsaw usage. Unless you don't value your time and like to cut and split wood for the exercise, you really don't save any money buying log length for two cords a year due to the initial cash outlay. If you are in the 8 to 10 cord usage, then it does save cash.

Cutting and splitting is the most risky aspect of burning wood. more than a few folks have been injured from chainsaws and without the right safety gear the injuries can be quite gory. Even with the right gear, if you don't know how to use it you still can get nailed, thus take a chainsaw course before you get any bad habits. Even splitter can cause nasty injuries, basically splitting is quite repetitive and its easy to end up with a finger in the wrong place. 

Just realize given the time of the year that no matter what type of wood you buy, cut and split or log length that is highly unlikely that it will ready to burn for this winter.

By the way, I cut trees and split by hand and my usage is 3 cords a year. Then again I am up north where oak isn't readily available so its white birch and red maple for me that's easier to split.


----------



## Wood Duck (Oct 4, 2013)

I split all of my firewood by hand, and I really enjoy the splitting. I can tell you that when we're at scout camp, a large majority of the reasonably fit scouts and adults enjoy splitting too. If you have to go out and split 4 cords this weekend, then a hydraulic splitter is what you need, but to split two cords per year, well that isn't even enough, let alone too much. I find that splitting for fifteen minutes is very relaxing. Do it every day and it is relaxing plus a small workout. It is also cheap.

I have taught many 11 year olds (the first year of Boy Scouts) to split logs and the ones who are able to handle the Fiskar's all look forward to splitting logs at camp. They are lousy at the tough pieces, but a log load should be mostly straight stuff and shouldn't have too many tough pieces. If you haven't used a chainsaw, I bet one of your friends has and could show you the basics. Respect the saw and be careful, and I think you'll be fine. The $900 bucks you can save will buy a nice chainsaw, a maul or two, and you'll have money left over.


----------



## DaveGunter (Oct 4, 2013)

isipwater said:


> I like your logic.  Save $900 by getting tree length logs, get a solid and reliable chainsaw, and try splitting the wood with a mau!



Save yourself even more money and buy some good PPE before you buy a saw, chaps, helmet with shield, or eye protection, ear protection, gloves, and safety boots, all much cheaper than a visit to the emergency room or worse.


----------



## lumbering on (Oct 4, 2013)

You don't have to buy log length or pre-split.

You can often buy a truck load of rounds already cut to 18" or so.  All you have to do is split them.


----------



## Soundchasm (Oct 4, 2013)

I've always wondered why they don't call "painting" Prep And Cleanup instead.  It'd be way more accurate.  All the angles these guys bring up are important, and your yard can get some long lasting scars from a big truck after a rain, let alone the wood.  Seems all the trees on my property were 60+ years old and really tall, and come down at predictably inconvenient intervals.  So clean up is a huge part.

Back to the prep thing, my pet peeve is to handle the wood the minimum amount of times.  You can call each split by name when a season's work load gets jumbled.  It'd be good to start off with a manageable amount.  You can get a work system together to test for the next load instead of discover some cart before the horse after a bunch of work.

Had some guys work on a monster cherry that came down.  It had been blocked (insurance work), but I wasn't going to lift any of them.  They showed up with a 4-way splitter that had an arm that lifted rounds.  It couldn't have taken any longer than 1.5-2 hours per cord with that machine.  But everything needed to be well-staged so the workload made perfect sense.  One guy bringing rounds, one guy running the splitter, two guys stacking and moving splits.  It was beautiful.  And boom it was over!

But when it's one lonesome soul out there, I accept if a job is two man-hours with two people, it's three man-hours by myself.  There's nobody to bring that one screwdriver, or hold this for a second, etc.  So building up your playbook one game at a time is the only show in town.  Each season you'll get way better and enjoy it more.

I've probably split 12 cords with my little electric splitter.  Those gas powered models are so fast and powerful it's hard to relax and enjoy it.  But if you have to get it done, rent the most powerful one in the store!


----------



## Newwave (Oct 6, 2013)

Where I live in suburbia I have a relatively small storage/staging area for wood.  Getting log lengths delivered and then me processing sounds great and I do enjoy doing that on my own schedule.  However, I don't want my yard to look like a sawmill; don't have the time to invest in splitting several days a week to accumulate the needed wood and plus I'm not as young and strong as I used to be.  I prefer to use my Fiskars X36 and chainsaw for those pieces needing extra TLC.  I have no pictures for all this but will upload some when I can figure out how.

Around here firewood is going for anywhere from $175 to $300 depending on who you buy it from, the type of wood and what time of year.  The firewood is never seasoned and actually ready to burn although it is sold as such.  We all know different from experience.  The firewood at that price is typically delivered and dumped.  You do the stacking and normally you are disappointed in the entire process with both quantity and quality.

What I did:  I found a local nursery/garden center that sells firewood.  Two years ago I bought 2 cords of splits that he had stacked on pallets about 5-6 feet tall with shrink wrap around them.  Like most of us I had been burned by short loads and junk wood in the past from other suppliers so this way of buying wood appealed to me.  This past March I went to the owner and made a deal for buying 6 cords at a time, delivered and stacked on pallets that he supplied.  What many folks don't realize is that firewood sellers often buy their wood from suppliers and are actually just firewood deliver guys.  Nothing wrong with that.  I dealt directly with the garden center owner, got the same price as the re-sellers since I was buying multiple cords, I got the wood already split, they delivered and stacked the wood on pallets they brought with them and the entire process was done in one day.  They brought 3 guys plus a crew leader/driver.  They did a great job stacking, I got the full measure of wood I bought, they cleaned up great and I gave the crew leader a tip to be divided among the guys however he wanted.



Result:  My yard was not torn up by gigantic trucks driving on the lawn and the driveway is not monopolized by logs for weeks and covered in sawdust, my firewood is neatly stacked on pallets along the property line, neighbors and friends frequently compliment/comment on the appearance of the wood pile.  I can scrounge enough to keep me busy splitting and stacking to satisfy my desire for that.  The price I paid was $130 per cord delivered (not including tip) and stacked as I described above.  I bought enough wood to last me about 2 years at current usage rates.  Added to the wood I already have I now have 3+ years on hand C/S/S.  The wood I bought is not ready to burn now and I knew that when I bought it.  I just checked several pieces and I get 24-28% readings.  There is a small amount of red oak and hickory but mostly maple, ash, beech and some I can't identify.

The owner Frank gets the wood delivered free in log lengths/rounds from local tree services who would otherwise have to pay to dump the wood.  He processes year round but mostly during the slow season to keep his guys working.  He seems to sell the wood basically for what the labor costs him to process and deliver plus a small profit (maybe).  It's a totally cool cycle of taking wood that would otherwise be put into a landfill, recycling the chipped material into mulch/compost, selling the logs as processed firewood and customers getting good quality firewood at a fair price, guys kept working that may otherwise be laid off and it seems to work out fine for everyone.

I plan to do the same thing again next March with another 6 cord, delivered and stacked.  As long as I can keep on buying at or about the same price I really can't justify a splitter and the accompanying work to get the same amount of wood for more money given the time I have available.

Anyway, that is what works for me.  Welcome to the forum and best of luck to you.  YMMV.


----------



## Soundchasm (Oct 6, 2013)

Newwave, that is an awesome post.


----------



## lumbering on (Oct 6, 2013)

Newwave said:


> Where I live in suburbia I have a relatively small storage/staging area for wood.  Getting log lengths delivered and then me processing sounds great and I do enjoy doing that on my own schedule.  However, I don't want my yard to look like a sawmill; don't have the time to invest in splitting several days a week to accumulate the needed wood and plus I'm not as young and strong as I used to be.  I prefer to use my Fiskars X36 and chainsaw for those pieces needing extra TLC.  I have no pictures for all this but will upload some when I can figure out how.
> 
> Around here firewood is going for anywhere from $175 to $300 depending on who you buy it from, the type of wood and what time of year.  The firewood is never seasoned and actually ready to burn although it is sold as such.  We all know different from experience.  The firewood at that price is typically delivered and dumped.  You do the stacking and normally you are disappointed in the entire process with both quantity and quality.
> 
> ...



I would absolutely pay 130 per cord to keep or stay ahead.  I find it costs WAY more than that around here.  This nursery wouldn't happen to be in New York, would it?


----------



## tsquini (Oct 6, 2013)

Go with the logs. Get a chainsaw. Get your second chainsaw first. A good saw will make your life so much easier. Then get an splitting axe.

As for the splitter, I have been processing logs for 5 years. I ended up getting a splitter 2 years ago. I split the straight wood by hand. It is quicker that way, a splitter is easier but it is slow. I use the splitter for the knotty wood or the rounds that won't split after 3 good tries.


----------



## Charles1981 (Oct 7, 2013)

I order 6  chords log length at a time. 

takes about 8-10 hours of actual time for me to buck the pile split over 2 days. Usually split over 2 days (~4-5 hours a day). Get the stove length bucked pieces stacked close together as you can manage.

Rent a 32ton log splitter at home depot for 100$ for 24 hours the night before. Wake up at 7am the next day and split from sun-up to sun down with my wife. Usually get the entire 6 chords split and stacked. 

About 3 days of really hard work a year. Get the chord @90$/chord log length. Factor in the splitter rental and I am getting everything at ~106$ per chord per year. 

I've thought about purchasing a splitter but dumping the 2000+ into a 32 ton splitter is really difficult decision to make. The 20 ton splitter I have used previous are slow as hell and still cost 1300 new at TSC. So the 32 ton rental from home depot is amazing to me at 100$ once a year.

Basically renting once a year to split 6 chords to me is worth it. It would take 20+ years to pay off a good serious wood splitter ~32 tons, and I don't really want a 20 ton mediocre splitter. 

Now that I am ahead about 2 years as well I may not even need to rent a splitter for some time because now that i have 12 chords split and stacked I am just leisurely splitting wood by hand now and keeping up over the course of the year.

I think buying a splitter is a bad idea unless you are selling wood, or physically can't split anymore.


----------



## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Oct 7, 2013)

Buying a splitter is not a bad idea, all situations are different, I contemplated renting vs buying for some time, now that it is in hind sight, I am glad I bought my 22 for only $1000. I can split what I want, when I want, I have my kids work the control while I do the grunt work, it is a great one on one time with the kids. I work a lot so I don't have a lot of time to get it all done fast, an hour here and there is the way that works best for me, I'm in no rush anymore now that I'm many cords ahead of the game, and I got there by doing it a few hours a week every week.....


----------



## Machria (Oct 7, 2013)

Charles1981 said:


> I've thought about purchasing a splitter but dumping the 2000+ into a 32 ton splitter is really difficult decision to make. The 20 ton splitter I have used previous are slow as hell and still cost 1300 new at TSC. So the 32 ton rental from home depot is amazing to me at 100$ once a year.



FYI from someone who just finished researching and looking at splitters for 3 months, then buying a 22 ton.  MOST of the 20 or 22 ton splitters are FASTER (faster cycle times) than the 27, 30, 34 and 37 ton splitters.  Now having said that, I find the speed of the splitter the least of the issue, if you really pay attention to the mechanics of splitting, most of the time is NOT spent at the splitter.  It's spent fetching rounds, placing/positioning properly on beam, throwing splits, moving and positioning 1/2 splits that require additional splits...       Also, now that I have a few cords split under my belt with the 22 ton splitter, I can tell you with 100% curtainty, there is nothing it will not split, that a 30 or 37 ton splitter would split.  First of all, my old 5 ton electric splitter which is now on Craigs list, basically split just about everything I ever gave it.  Sure, I had to reposition some crotchy rounds a few times to coax them into splitting, but after 3 or 4 years of splitting with it, I had exactly 3 peices of wood that it just would not split.  The 22 ton spit those 3 without blinking an eye.   The point being, there wasn't/isn't a hole lot of difference between 5 tons and 22 tons of splitting force.  So I doubt the difference between 22 and 30 is much besides possibly the longevity of the splitter (they are probably built heavier duty and may last longer...).

Just keeping it real.   


Oh, PS- My 22 ton was $950 at Home depot (1200 less 20% off coupon).


----------



## oldspark (Oct 7, 2013)

" I split the straight wood by hand. It is quicker that way, a splitter is easier but it is slow."
I dont agree with that at all maybe if you have a slow splitter, split wod by hand for a little over 25 years but bought a splitter a few years ago, once you get the hang of using the splitter and get a system it is very fast, I know you can split wood fast by hand but cord for cord a good hyd. splitter is gonna come out on top.


----------



## paul bunion (Oct 7, 2013)

I also figured in the cost of installing a trailer hitch on my car (and any future one) when making a decision to buy a splitter.   $200 plus installation for a trailer hitch was a significant chunk of buying a splitter outright.


----------



## Machria (Oct 7, 2013)

paul bunion said:


> I also figured in the cost of installing a trailer hitch on my car (and any future one) when making a decision to buy a splitter.   $200 plus installation for a trailer hitch was a significant chunk of buying a splitter outright.



"Car" ?   What is a car?


----------



## teutonicking (Oct 7, 2013)

I like owning my own splitter.  If you plan to burn wood for many years then it pays to own your own splitter.  You never know when you are going to get a good free score on craigslist, or if a neighbor has a tree they are cutting down and will just give you the wood.  It will pay for itself in the long run, both in monetary terms and in convenience.  You can get a good 22 ton splitter by Huskee for $900-1000.

Same goes for a good chainsaw.  I'd recommend a Stihl MS-261.


----------



## Waulie (Oct 7, 2013)

Splitting by hand can definitely be faster if you only have a short amount of time each time to split wood.  If I have an hour or two, I can split WAY more wood by hand then if I had to gas-up, check oil, haul around, etc. a splitter.  Actually, since I'm splitting 95% ash, I'm pretty sure I could out split a splitter without even counting the other stuff.  That's until I get tired of course.

That said, If you have a whole day or a good chunk of the day to just split wood, then yes, a splitter would definitely be faster.  It is less fun, though.


----------



## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Oct 7, 2013)

Waulie said:


> Splitting by hand can definitely be faster if you only have a short amount of time each time to split wood.  If I have an hour or two, I can split WAY more wood by hand then if I had to gas-up, check oil, haul around, etc. a splitter.  Actually, since I'm splitting 95% ash, I'm pretty sure I could out split a splitter without even counting the other stuff.  That's until I get tired of course.
> 
> That said, If you have a whole day or a good chunk of the day to just split wood, then yes, a splitter would definitely be faster.  It is less fun, though.


Probably not true, I can gas up, bring the splitter out, etc. like pull the cord and start production..... Split some wood for an hour or two.......That's until I need to go in and eat of course....


----------



## Waulie (Oct 7, 2013)

Ram 1500 with an axe... said:


> Probably not true, I can gas up, bring the splitter out, etc. like pull the cord and start production..... Split some wood for an hour or two.......That's until I need to go in and eat of course....



I'm not against splitters or anything.  I borrow one once a year to go through the pile of knots and crotches I've built up.  It's just that for the vast majority of my splitting time, I wouldn't be firing up a splitter even if I owned one.  It just wouldn't be worth it.  I think it does depend on your time and situation.  Probably 80% of my splitting takes place in chunks of less than an hour and quite often less than a half hour.  For a young, healthy person just starting out, I would actually say buying a splitter would be the last investment I would recommend.


----------



## tsquini (Oct 7, 2013)

I bought a splitter because of efficiency. I have 8 hours a week to buck, split or stack wood. I could easily spend hours with a maul and wedge splitting the harder to knotty wood. I choose to save time and my joints with a splitter. I save 90% of my time using a splitter to split 10% of the wood. That 10% is about 2/3 of a chord a year.


----------



## lumbering on (Oct 7, 2013)

tsquini said:


> I bought a splitter because of efficiency. I have 8 hours a week to buck, split or stack wood. I could easily spend hours with a maul and wedge splitting the harder to knotty wood. I choose to save time and my joints with a splitter. I save 90% of my time using a splitter to split 10% of the wood. That 10% is about 2/3 of a chord a year.



That's the situation I find myself in now.  I've split all the easy stuff.  Now I'm after all the garbage. 
About an hour with the sledge and wedge and the small amount I've accomplished, a splitter doesn't seem like such a bad idea, 
EVEN IF I ONLY USE IT FOR 10% of the wood.


----------



## teutonicking (Oct 8, 2013)

Waulie said:


> *Splitting by hand can definitely be faster* if you only have a short amount of time each time to split wood.  If I have an hour or two, I can split WAY more wood by hand then if I had to gas-up, check oil, haul around, etc. a splitter.  Actually, since I'm splitting 95% ash, I'm pretty sure I could out split a splitter without even counting the other stuff.  That's until I get tired of course.
> 
> That said, If you have a whole day or a good chunk of the day to just split wood, then yes, a splitter would definitely be faster.  It is less fun, though.


 
I think it also depends a lot on how good you are at splitting by hand.


----------



## Oregon aloha (Oct 10, 2013)

It takes we two days on the chain saw and one day on a splitter for one years wood about 3 cord. Can anyone produce that much split wood in a day by hand?


----------



## Charles1981 (Oct 10, 2013)

Beer and few friends yes. All by myself? no.


----------



## tsquini (Oct 10, 2013)

I think it is time for man vs machine competition.


----------



## USMC80 (Oct 10, 2013)

I went in with my friend (neighbor) half on a splitter two years ago.  600 bucks each.  Well worth it.  I still split by hand at times but the splitter is a awesome thing to have


----------



## Block Inlay (Dec 16, 2014)

weatherguy said:


> With that disparity between split and log length I'd buy a truck load (7-8 cords), a chainsaw, get it all cut to length and rent a splitter for 2 days. In this part of the state I can get $100 cord log length or $135/150 split so the decision is easy. Try it you may found like a lot of us you like doing it and look around for a splitter, if you're burning full time you may go through more than 2 cords a year, I go through 4.
> Now that I'm 3 years ahead I like to scrounge wood (craigslist, word of mouth, etc..) and cut and split at my leisure. I would say most of us like to do the work in the spring or fall, too hot in the summer, I'd rather cut and split when its 15 degrees than when its 90.



Weatherguy, may I ask where you get your wood?  I'm in central MA too and I'm having a hard time sourcing log length.  Like Isipwater said in his original post, I'm new to this.  I have a chainsaw and plan on splitting the old fashioned way to get some exercise.  Thanks very much!


----------



## Kenster (Dec 16, 2014)

Regarding electric chain saws.  The right tool for the job.  Who would ever tackle six or seven yards of logs with an electric saw?   I guess an electric is okay if you're going to climb a ladder to trim a limb but that's about it.  Personally, I prefer a gas powered pole saw.  For the OPs purpose, he should get the best saw he can afford right off the bat.  Doesn't even have to be new.  He can check with his dealer for a good trade in or maybe a floor model or rental saw.  

Bar length is debatable.  Why get a 20 incher unless you're cutting a lot of 36" to 38" diameter trees?   I've always been partial to 16 inch bars. That covers me pretty well up to 32 inch trunks without carrying the extra weight on the longer bar.  Plus, my MS390 with a 16" bar cuts through my oak like buttah!

So, OP.  Get yourself a GOOD saw.  I'm a Stihl guy, myself.   A good, middle of the road, powerwise, saw with a 16 to 18 inch bar should take care of your needs forever without breaking the bank.   Try your hand splitting with your Fiskars.  You don't have to do it all in one day if you already have this year's wood.  Once you get the logs bucked up, you can split an hour or so a day.  I much prefer working on my wood in the winter time no matter how cold is it- you'll stay plenty warm, I promise.   If you really want to knock it out in a day or two, get everything bucked up and have a splitting party.  A couple of guys feeding you rounds and tossing the splits into a pile, with a few more people taking the splits and stacking will make short work of it.   Find yourself a big round or a bucket or camp stool and set the splitter into vertical mode will save a lot of lifting and make things a lot easier on your back.    Save the beer for AFTER the power tools are shut down for the day.  Safety first--always!


----------



## Kenster (Dec 16, 2014)

Just realized this thread is a year old.


----------



## Block Inlay (Dec 16, 2014)

Kenster said:


> Just realized this thread is a year old.



My bad.  Threadsurrection


----------



## BrotherBart (Dec 16, 2014)




----------



## English BoB (Dec 16, 2014)

isipwater said:


> I live in Southeastern, MA
> 
> I do not have a chainsaw but plan to rent or buy one.
> 
> ...


Get extra chains as well, you dont want to be stuck if you plan to do all that on one weekend.
Have you any chainsaw or power spliter experience ?


----------



## Hogwildz (Dec 16, 2014)

Waulie said:


> I'm not against splitters or anything.  I borrow one once a year to go through the pile of knots and crotches I've built up.  It's just that for the vast majority of my splitting time, I wouldn't be firing up a splitter even if I owned one.  It just wouldn't be worth it.  I think it does depend on your time and situation.  Probably 80% of my splitting takes place in chunks of less than an hour and quite often less than a half hour.  For a young, healthy person just starting out, I would actually say buying a splitter would be the last investment I would recommend.


You're not splitting enough wood. Split 7 or 8 cords in the same time it takes to split with a splitter, then tell us how far you got, and how you feel.


----------

