# Stihl MS290 Farm Boss purchase. . . no oil getting to the bar???



## bgoodwithwood (Mar 30, 2009)

Just purchased a new Stihl Farm Boss the other day based on reviews and discussions.  It is pulling an 18" bar and cuts up a storm when the bar is getting oil.  I even adjusted the oil flow on the bottom of the saw and it seems to be a bit dry.  Finally took it back to the dealer and he said to me that there are 2 small holes on the guide that if they get clogged will stop the flow of the oil to the pickups on the chain (??).  Has anyone else experienced this on this model saw??  Sounds a bit strange that this would happen on such a nice saw.  I love it but in all honesty my piece of junk Homelite hums right along never getting dry.  I at first thought it might have been that we were cutting some large rounds of cherry that required more oil but wanted to know what others may have in the way of advice.  Thanks Todd.


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## LLigetfa (Mar 30, 2009)

I've been cleaning my bar all my life and can attest to the small hole.  I routinely pull the bar off and scrape the wood cuttings out of the slot and blow the hole clean.


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## bgoodwithwood (Mar 30, 2009)

I was wondering if any of the earlier versions of this classic had a larger hole to allow for a steadier stream of oil to the bar?  The dealer basically told me in the field to keep that bar free of any dust and debris and to keep the chain real sharp to lower the likelihood that dust can clog the hole and stop the oil flow.  I think this may be something that they should look into as a future improvement.  The guy that I was getting my wood from had to break out his husky and buck the rest of the logs!  Needless to say that I was expecting big things from my saw and got "shown up" by a husky rancher.  . :-(


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## LLigetfa (Mar 30, 2009)

It's less than a 5 minute job to pull the bar, clean it, put it back, and tension the chain.  There was no reason to be "shown up".  Chances are you either clogged up the discharge of cuttings causing them to be pulled back into the bar, or you dulled the chain and started making saw "dust".


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## kenskip1 (Mar 30, 2009)

This is easy to diagnosis. Simply remove the bar and chain and start it. Go easy on the throttle and watch for oil to ooze out the port.Ken


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## Bigg_Redd (Mar 30, 2009)

It helps to use thinner oil.


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## EatenByLimestone (Mar 30, 2009)

I turned my oiler to pump the max.  It still seems a bit light to me, but the chain hasn't noticed.   


Matt


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## JustWood (Mar 30, 2009)

There should be a bar groove cleaning tool in the tool kit that came with the saw. It is plastic and shaped like an L. The long end of the L is thin and will fit in the groove of your bar. Mine is red in color. I haven't bought a new saw in a few years , if you didn't get one then maybe Stihl quit putting them in tool kits. I'm sure your dealer has them for sale. Last I looked at my dealer they were $1.50.
Your problem is not a "brand" problem, it can happen to any saw.


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## savageactor7 (Mar 30, 2009)

This is a common problem bgoodwithwood. The owners manual explains how to carefully hold a rotating chain by the face of a cut round to observe a properly oiled chain...

...compressed air is your friend too.


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## smokinj (Mar 30, 2009)

savageactor7 said:
			
		

> This is a common problem bgoodwithwood. The owners manual explains how to carefully hold a rotating chain by the face of a cut round to observe a properly oiled chain...
> 
> ...compressed air is your friend too.


compressed air evertime after a day of cutting


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## LLigetfa (Mar 30, 2009)

savageactor7 said:
			
		

> ...compressed air is your friend too.


I usually clean my bar in the field so the compressed air comes from my lungs.  Wipe the oil off the bar, gently put it to your lips, and blow down into the slot.  Then wipe you lips on your sleeve or you'll be tasting oil for a while and you're good to go.

I don't have a fancy tool to clean with so I use the small screwdriver that's always in my bag for carb adjustments.


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## Highbeam (Mar 30, 2009)

My local saw shop sharpens my chains and works on Stihls. Says that the 290 is an oil pump killing machine. Apparently they go out all the time. He said the cost of that repair once is enough to get you up into a pro model saw with a more dependable oil system. I don't know, don't own one but always interested in the experience of a workshop.


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## Ncountry (Mar 30, 2009)

My specialty tool even when cutting close to home is usually a piece of wood the right size to slide down the bar to clean out the groove and a toothpick sized piece to clear the oiler holes.


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## bgoodwithwood (Apr 1, 2009)

Thank you all for the candor and insights.  I gave it a good cleaning the other day with my new friend. . . compressed air. . . . and will make sure I keep it clean and sharp.  Hopefully, I did not do any damage by running it without bar oil getting on there. . . .


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## Gooserider (Apr 1, 2009)

What I find makes a good chain groove cleaning tool is the cut off end of a nylon tie-wrap....  Stiff enough to do a good job, won't break, and is flexible...

Gooserider


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## burntime (Apr 1, 2009)

I run a screwdriver tip and blow out the hole.  Pretty easy.  I also just leave the saw out of the wood and crack it open a few times.  Usually spits the stuff out.  The worst is dead elm, dusty and wears the bar and chain.  Thats why they are consumable.


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