# I NEED a new saw!! (Update)



## mrfjsf (Oct 3, 2010)

Hey all. Im in serious need of a new saw, the crapsman just isnt gettin it anymore.  Ive been doing a little research on the net.  I fell in love with the husqvarna's xp series, but I just cant afford one.  My budget right now is around 400-450.  I wanna get the best bag for my buck and I want something that is going to be dependable and last a while. My only requirement is that the saw has to be able to take a 20" bar without much troubles.  Im not really partial to husky or stihl or dolmar, I just want a good running saw that can breeze through some wood.  Ill be cutting 6-10 cords/year perhaps more.  The few saws I was looking at were the Stihl MS290, Husky 359 (couldnt find one in my price range though), husky 346xp (love this saw but once again I cant find one in my range)

any other suggestions?


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## Jamess67 (Oct 3, 2010)

Ive cut close to 9 cords with my MS290 and couldnt be happier.  To each their own, but thats my opinion.


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## kenskip1 (Oct 3, 2010)

New saw, I just received a new catalog from Baileys.They have a new Husqvarna 455 with a 20bc for get this $414.95.  Some may frown about this saw but it is a proven performer.
I was just on Tractor Supply and they list this saw for less! Good luck with your choice,however I would jump on this one, Ken

http://www.tractorsupply.com/outdoo...sqvarna-reg-20-in-56-cc-455-chain-saw-3908930


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## wendell (Oct 3, 2010)

I just got my 346XP for less than $450. Offer them that. All they can do is say no. (And i predict they will say yes.) And it is waaaay worth it!!


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## Bigg_Redd (Oct 3, 2010)

mrfjsf said:
			
		

> Hey all. Im in serious need of a new saw, the crapsman just isnt gettin it anymore.  Ive been doing a little research on the net.  I fell in love with the husqvarna's xp series, but I just cant afford one.  My budget right now is around 400-450.  I wanna get the best bag for my buck and I want something that is going to be dependable and last a while. My only requirement is that the saw has to be able to take a 20" bar without much troubles.  Im not really partial to husky or stihl or dolmar, I just want a good running saw that can breeze through some wood.  Ill be cutting 6-10 cords/year perhaps more.  The few saws I was looking at were the Stihl MS290, Husky 359 (couldnt find one in my price range though), husky 346xp (love this saw but once again I cant find one in my range)
> 
> any other suggestions?



I've been cutting 8-12 cord per year for 7+ years with my 20" bar-equipped 290 and I've had exactly zero issues with it.  And I'm going to run her till she pukes, which may be a long time.

But, the saw was a gift to me.  If I had no saw at all I'd come up with the extra $200 for a 361.  But, that's just me.


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## mrfjsf (Oct 3, 2010)

wendell said:
			
		

> I just got my 346XP for less than $450. Offer them that. All they can do is say no. (And i predict they will say yes.) And it is waaaay worth it!!



Less than $450 out the door for a xp saw? Crap, where is your dealer at? lol

I need to do some checking around and see what I can come up with.  Would it handle a 20" bar with ease?


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## mrfjsf (Oct 3, 2010)

Bigg_Redd said:
			
		

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Id love to own a 361 bigg redd, however its just not in the cards for me right now.  Heckuva saw though


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## wendell (Oct 3, 2010)

mrfjsf said:
			
		

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I would say it could handle it but with ease?, I'm not sure. If you are a tight budget, find a Home Depot selling their 6401 Makita rental saws. They can handle a 20" bar with no problem!!


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## flewism (Oct 3, 2010)

I would definitely go the check out the Home Depot rental centers for the Makita 6401, 
The ms-290 would be a major upgrade, and will do the job. 
 If I didn't all ready own a 359 and needed a 60cc saw right now then this would be it.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=MKA+DCS6401+20&catID=11227

An xp346 is one of the finest saws around, but running a 20 bar on one is a bit of a stretch.


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## nate379 (Oct 3, 2010)

I am very happy with my MS290.  It was about $450 with a case, oil, and 2 spare chains.


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## Tony H (Oct 3, 2010)

wendell said:
			
		

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I needed a larger saw and called around to HD stores for a 6401 is came with a 20'bar and can really go thru some big logs very well. Got the saw plus an extra bar and chain for a little over 200.00 .  Just look up the HD in your area and start calling ,I had to drive about an hour to get one .  FYI Makita says it can run up to a 32" bar , I don't think I would go that large but I can sure see it running a 24 or 28 with little problem.


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## mrfjsf (Oct 3, 2010)

Tony H said:
			
		

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Dolmar makes Makita or vise-versa correct?  Ive read up on the Dolmar 5100s, not toooo many people have them, but the ones that do say its one of the best saws they've ever owned.

Which department do you ask for when you call home depot? DO all HD stores rent? What kind of condition was the saw in then you got it? Its hard to beat $200 for a saw of that size

Thanks guys!


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## wendell (Oct 3, 2010)

Makita owns Dolmar. Dolmar makes the saws. Ask for the rental department. I think there are a few HD's that don't have rental departments but not many.


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## Idahokid (Oct 3, 2010)

I bought a stihl ms310 and it runs like a ***** ape.It was on sale here at ace hardware for 389.00 with a 25 inch bar.Very happy with it.


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## gzecc (Oct 3, 2010)

FYI, I bought a good condition 290 on CL for $190 with a couple of dull chains and a case.  Keep looking on CL the good stuff comes up. You need to be quick.


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## Battenkiller (Oct 3, 2010)

mrfjsf said:
			
		

> I fell in love with the husqvarna's xp series, but I just cant afford one.  My budget right now is around 400-450.  I wanna get the best bag for my buck and I want something that is going to be dependable and last a while. My only requirement is that the saw has to be able to take a 20" bar without much troubles.  Im not really partial to husky or stihl or dolmar, I just want a good running saw that can breeze through some wood.  Ill be cutting 6-10 cords/year perhaps more.  The few saws I was looking at were the Stihl MS290, Husky 359 (couldnt find one in my price range though), husky 346xp (love this saw but once again I cant find one in my range)



You say "breeze through wood".  Be patient and buy a good saw used.  I got lucky and found a nice 357XP for $225 on Craigslist and I just love it.  My buddy has a brand new MS290 and it is not in the same class as my used saw.  He cuts a lot of wood with it.  It gets the job done.  He is happy with it.  I would be disappointed if I had to go backward.  You really have to use a pro saw a little to get what folks are excited about.  For example, I have extremely bad carpal tunnel and shouldn't even be running a saw.  After my first load of standing dead locust logs (went fast), my wife asked me how my hands were doing.  I thought about it and said, "You know... I didn't even notice the saw vibrating".  That has never happened before, and this wood was hard as rock.

BTW I don't think you'd be totally happy with a 20" bar on a 346XP.  My 357 came with a 20" bar, but I got an 18" bar on advice from folks at Bailey's and on this site and it cuts better, even on a 12" log.  Less drag on the bar, I guess.


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## mrfjsf (Oct 3, 2010)

what are things i should look for on a used saw?  I dont want to spend 2-300 on a used saw and get something that is junk when I could have spend 4-500 on a new one and know exactly how it was treated.  Are there any tell-tale signs that the saw was abused or beaten on hard?

thanks again guys, this thread has been a big help so far.


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## Backwoods Savage (Oct 3, 2010)

Jamess67 said:
			
		

> Ive cut close to 9 cords with my MS290 and couldnt be happier.  To each their own, but thats my opinion.




I'm up to around 60 cords with mine now. Although it will take a 20" bar, I have only a 16" because that is all I need. 


On the saw to get, go with what you want but if you can't afford that, then go with whoever is a reputable dealer CLOSE to you.


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## zzr7ky (Oct 3, 2010)

Hi -

I went with the Dolmar 5100.  Very happy with it, but I started cutting large trees and grabbed a Makita 6401 from HD for $300 with new bar and chain.  Very, very happy now.  My buddies put their saws away and start loading wood now.  

ATB, 
Mike


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## mrfjsf (Oct 3, 2010)

zzr7ky said:
			
		

> Hi -
> 
> I went with the Dolmar 5100.  Very happy with it, but I started cutting large trees and grabbed a Makita 6401 from HD for $300 with new bar and chain.  Very, very happy now.  My buddies put their saws away and start loading wood now.
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how is your 5100 for power to weight ratio? they really seem like great little saws.  If you dont mind my asking, what did you pay for your 5100? most of the cutting I do is on my buddies farm where im in all diff types of terrain fighting my way through brush, is the 6401 too heavy to be toting around the woods all day or does its speed make up for the difference in weight?  I dont really plan on cutting anything more than 24" diameter.  Most everything I fell is between 10-18" with the occasional ones I run into that i'd LIKE to fell being 24" or a little larger(i wont touch em with my current saw, too much work for that little dog).  I just dont want something that is going to be too much saw to carry around all day.  For those wondering, the reason I want a 20" bar is im 6'1" and the constant hunching over kills my back.


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## HardWoodW (Oct 3, 2010)

bang for buck for me was MS 290 - with the "free case deal" I got the saw (18" bar) case, and spare chain for $370.  I don't have a lot to compare it to- previous saw was the old poulan wood shark nuff said.


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## Jamess67 (Oct 3, 2010)

mrfjsf said:
			
		

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I am also 6'1" and feel your pain. I will say the MS290 is some what easy to bog down with a 20" bar and a sharp chain, would probably be best with a 18". It is a hand full to carry alot. All that being said, if your looking for a " do all" saw, it cant be beat. I did alot of cutting yesterday and fell a 36" maple and a bunch of 10-12" cedars and a few apples, and it did great. Now for de liming a fallen tree such as a maple a smaller 12-14" is a MUCH better choice due to the 290s over all length.


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## mrfjsf (Oct 3, 2010)

im going to keep the craftman for small delimbing purposes and trimming the small stuff around the house. it is light enough for me to swing around a little.  I think I have my choices narrowed down to either Dolmar 5100s, Husky 346xp or a Makita 6401 (if I can find one used at a good price).  For my purposes, im feeling that the 346xp or 5100s will be a better everyday work saw that can do almost everything I need it to.  The 5100s is a little cheaper than the 346xp and rates just as high sometimes higher than the 346. BUT, the closest dealer to me is almost 40 miles away. Thats not tooo very far but, I have a reputable husky dealer within 5 miles. The only thing making me not want to completely jump on a makita 6401 for an everyday worksaw is the fact that it is almost 2lbs heavier than either the dolmar or husky. That, and if it breaks and I need parts from a dealer, it will be more difficult.  However, the extra 1 hp is quite a jump and the ability to go from a 20" to a 32" bar is quite attractive. 

I guess my question to you all that have a 6401 or similar saw and also have a 5100/346 or similar saw is which saw would you not wanna leave home without?  If you were gonna be in the woods all day, which saw would you take?


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## golfandwoodnut (Oct 4, 2010)

I did not see anyone mention the Stihl 390.  I got one over a year ago with a 20 inch bar.  It is almost a full horsepower more powerful than the 290 and can even handle 24 or 28 inch bars.  It is not much more than a 290 so if you want some horsepower and a 20 inch bar I think it is well worth it.  Has some pro features too like the compression button etc. 59 cc.


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## mrfjsf (Oct 4, 2010)

flewism said:
			
		

> An xp346 is one of the finest saws around, but running a 20 bar on one is a bit of a stretch.



Just thought yall might find this a little entertaining.  I had a little doubts about a 20, but this is a little over the top.  She held her own though.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PlFC-nwdl8&feature=related


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## TreePointer (Oct 4, 2010)

mrfjsf said:
			
		

> Hey all. Im in serious need of a new saw, the crapsman just isnt gettin it anymore.  Ive been doing a little research on the net.  I fell in love with the husqvarna's xp series, but I just cant afford one.  My budget right now is around 400-450.  I wanna get the best bag for my buck and I want something that is going to be dependable and last a while. *My only requirement is that the saw has to be able to take a 20" bar without much troubles.*  Im not really partial to husky or stihl or dolmar, I just want a good running saw that *can breeze through some wood*.  Ill be cutting 6-10 cords/year perhaps more.  The few saws I was looking at were the Stihl MS290, Husky 359 (couldnt find one in my price range though), husky 346xp (love this saw but once again I cant find one in my range)
> 
> any other suggestions?



A 20" bar without much troubles?  Can breeze through some wood?  

Burying a 20" bar in hardwoods is a job for a 60+cc or bigger running 3/8" pitch chain.  Can lesser saws eventually get the job done?  Sure, but they can't meet your requirements.  They just don't have the grunt.  It may not fit your situation, but I agree with the other posters who advised to save a little more money or look around some more.


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## zzr7ky (Oct 4, 2010)

Hi again -   The 5100 has great power and it's light.  I paid $400 a few years ago.  The 6401 is a great saw for bucking and felling larger stuff but it's noticably heavier.


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## HittinSteel (Oct 4, 2010)

Have you looked at a 359 Husky? Basically the same saw as the 357XP, without the ridiculous price tag. May still be a little out of your range new, but I see some nice used ones on Craigs.


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## HittinSteel (Oct 4, 2010)

mrfjsf said:
			
		

> what are things i should look for on a used saw?  I dont want to spend 2-300 on a used saw and get something that is junk when I could have spend 4-500 on a new one and know exactly how it was treated.  Are there any tell-tale signs that the saw was abused or beaten on hard?
> 
> thanks again guys, this thread has been a big help so far.



Having the right T wrench to remove the muffler and have a look at the piston on the exhaust side will tell you quite a bit. A $25 compression tester with a schrader valve is also a great tool. Look for compression around 150 on a healthy saw as a guideline. Check to make sure the bar is getting plenty of oil. Does the saw start easily and accelerate smoothly without hesitation? 

Ask if you can make some test cuts with the saw. Pretty easy to tell if the saw is in good working order after making some cuts.

Post pictures here and we can help.


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## Battenkiller (Oct 4, 2010)

I've been thinking, and as much as I like my 357XP, I'd go to the smaller 346 if I was buying new.  Wasn't an option with me since the saw was so ridiculously cheap I just had to buy it, but lighter is nicer, and the power seems to be good enough with the 346.  Price is within your stated budget ($400-500), and you have a Husky dealer just a few miles away.  That's huge IMO.  Nearest Husky dealer to me is over half an hour.  As for me, I wouldn't buy a used saw from HD if my life depended on it.  Who knows how many guys could have abused it.  A good pro saw bought by an individual is more likely to be better taken care of.  Few would spend that kind of dough if they didn't already know something about saws.


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## TreePointer (Oct 4, 2010)

I own an MS290, MS361, NE346XP, and have used a Makita 6401 (many of the saws mentioned here).  

The way I see it is that you can't go wrong with a good 50cc saw (NE356XP, Dolmar 5100s, MS260, et al.) because it will handle most cutting under 20" in diameter.  If you are a skilled cutter, you also can use one for the occasional larger wood.  There are many firewooders who do just fine with this class of saw as their only saw.

However, if you are regularly cutting big wood and need a 20"+ bar, then you need a larger displacement saw.  Running 3/8" (.375) pitch chain with a 20" bar on a 50cc saw will bog down in hardwoods and you will not be happy.  

I know money is tight for just about everyone, but if you get a good quality saw, you will have no regrets, especially if you consider the hidden costs.  For example, the extra cash for a MS361 over an MS290 can be made up in other ways.  The MS361 has far greater fuel efficiency, better antivibration, weighs less, has more power, will make faster cuts, and has more grunt for making stumps.


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## midwestcoast (Oct 4, 2010)

I'll through my hat in the ring...
The way I see it you're getting lots of folks saying to go 60cc+ based on your requirment for running a 20" bar with ease. That makes sense, but later you say you want the 20" bar just to save bending over too much and most your cutting is 10-18" with biggest around 24". So, you want a 20" bar on your saw, but you're really not talking about burying the thing in 20" hardwood all the time.  For that use you'd do just fine with a strong 50cc saw. On the odd 18"+ trunk you'll have to use a lighter touch or make 2 passes to keep from bogging down, no big deal.
If I were you I'd go with:
-346XP over the 5100 based on your dealer support (80 mile round-trip for a repair?!) or
-Stihl 290 & save some coin for chains, chaps, boots...., or
-A good condition used PRO Husky/Stihl/Dolmar 50-60cc & save $, get the high power to weight ratio, be prepared to tinker with it now & then. (count husky 359 & 353 as pro btw)

Better to not buy a used consumer-grade saw as they're harder to fix or get fixed


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## mrfjsf (Oct 5, 2010)

Thanks for all the replys guys. Based on what ive been reading, I think im going to go with the 346xp.  It just seems to be the right saw for my needs and I have a good dealer closeby.  Hopefully they are not sold out and on backorder. That seems to be the going concesus on these saw right now.  Now i just have to get the loving wife to accept that im about to spend $500 on a chainsaw...this should be fun.


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## RNLA (Oct 5, 2010)

There are lots of great saws out there. My favorite brand is STIHL, that being said I would go with any saw new or used that is a little bigger than you need, with a shorter bar. Say for instance the saw maker says it will run up to a 20 inch bar, then go 16" or 18". The second area is the chain. Get a chain that is meant for professional cutters, and learn how to sharpen it. The third area is the bar. Get a bar that is compatible with the professional chain. Be aware of the condition of the bar and chain at all times. I have been cutting trees professionally for fifteen years now and rarely take my saws to a shop for anything. Make sure you have your act together and it does not make a difference what color the saw is!!


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## HittinSteel (Oct 5, 2010)

mrfjsf said:
			
		

> Thanks for all the replys guys. Based on what ive been reading, I think im going to go with the 346xp.  It just seems to be the right saw for my needs and I have a good dealer closeby.  Hopefully they are not sold out and on backorder. That seems to be the going concesus on these saw right now.  Now i just have to get the loving wife to accept that im about to spend $500 on a chainsaw...this should be fun.




Great choice. I've got my 260 on craigslist and if it sells, I'll be getting one too.


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## jashcroft (Oct 5, 2010)

zzr7ky said:
			
		

> Hi again -   The 5100 has great power and it's light.  I paid $400 a few years ago.  The 6401 is a great saw for bucking and felling larger stuff but it's noticably heavier.



I agree with above. I bought a 5100 last year and paid just under $400.  It's a great saw and I love it, but you wouldn't want to put more than an 18" bar on it.  It will handle a 20" bar in a pinch, but wouldn't want to make a habit of it.

The 346xp is also a great saw.  Really can't go wrong with it.


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## HeatsTwice (Oct 5, 2010)

flewism said:
			
		

> I would definitely go the check out the Home Depot rental centers for the Makita 6401,
> The ms-290 would be a major upgrade, and will do the job.
> If I didn't all ready own a 359 and needed a 60cc saw right now then this would be it.
> 
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Dang, that saw has more power and weighs less than a MS390.

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS391.html


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## thinkxingu (Oct 5, 2010)

My big issue with Dolmar, and I think it's been covered here, is the price variation: I called 3 places and got 3 prices (I think someone once posted 8 dealers and 8 prices here).  At least with Stihl and Husky you can be sure you're getting a fairly similar deal (other than freebies, I suppose).

S


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## wendell (Oct 5, 2010)

mrfjsf said:
			
		

> I guess my question to you all that have a 6401 or similar saw and also have a 5100/346 or similar saw is which saw would you not wanna leave home without?  If you were gonna be in the woods all day, which saw would you take?



I would never leave home without them both.  ;-)


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## mrfjsf (Oct 5, 2010)

wendell said:
			
		

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Well said wendell, hopefully a year or two down the road I can pick up a good 70 or 80cc for the big stuff.  For now I'll just have to keep on bucking with a little guy.  It does seem though (at least with online retailers) that the 346xp is sold out almost everywhere.  I hope I can get to a dealer either this weekend or next to see what they have but that's gonna suck big time if I have to order one...anyone know how long it takes to get if they have to order it?


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## wendell (Oct 6, 2010)

It should only take a few days but if they have to order it, it is most likely going to be the new cat version which would be less than desirable as you would then need to spend $30 on a new muffler.


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## TreePointer (Oct 6, 2010)

*mrfjsf*, just in case you weren't aware:

There is an old edition 346XP that is 45cc and has an orange clutch cover.  Some dealers may have old stock of the old edition, so confirm that you don't want one of these.

The 346XP new edition is 50cc and has a silver clutch cover.  The "EPA" model should have a green fuel cap and should have "CAT" stamped on the muffler.  The non-EPA model has a dark gray fuel cap.  If your dealer can't get you what you want, then try another dealer.


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## mrfjsf (Oct 6, 2010)

TreePointer said:
			
		

> *mrfjsf*, just in case you weren't aware:
> 
> There is an old edition 346XP that is 45cc and has an orange clutch cover.  Some dealers may have old stock of the old edition, so confirm that you don't want one of these.
> 
> The 346XP new edition is 50cc and has a silver clutch cover.  The "EPA" model should have a green fuel cap and should have "CAT" stamped on the muffler.  The non-EPA model has a dark gray fuel cap.  If your dealer can't get you what you want, then try another dealer.



I know about the OE and NE. So there are two versions of the NE? EPA with green fuel cap and a Cat muffler, Non-EPA, gray fuel cap and no cat muffler? Is the EPA saw the one that says E-TECH?


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## jashcroft (Oct 6, 2010)

Did you happen to check C&I hardware in Aliquippa, PA?  They still had a couple of 346xp's last time I stopped in.  It would be about a 40 minute drive for you I think.


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## TreePointer (Oct 6, 2010)

mrfjsf said:
			
		

> I know about the OE and NE.   Is the EPA saw the one that says E-TECH?


Yes.  Sorry for using the term "EPA."  Husqvarna calls their improved cat models E-TECH.



> So there are two versions of the NE?


Yes.



> EPA with green fuel cap and a Cat muffler, Non-EPA, gray fuel cap and no cat muffler?


Yes.


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## Battenkiller (Oct 6, 2010)

mrfjsf said:
			
		

> It does seem though (at least with online retailers) that the 346xp is sold out almost everywhere.  I hope I can get to a dealer either this weekend or next to see what they have but that's gonna suck big time if I have to order one...anyone know how long it takes to get if they have to order it?



I thought you couldn't order a saw online?  Cuts the throats of the brick-and-mortar retail guys.  I'm pretty sure Stihl won't allow it, maybe Husqvarna does?

In the immortal words of  Valentine Michael Smith...

"Waiting is."

Or...

If it was me, I'd be driving all over the place to get one ASAP.  I really dig instant gratification.


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## TreePointer (Oct 7, 2010)

Battenkiller said:
			
		

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I think he meant that the *dealer* will have to order it if it's not in stock. 

How long will it take?  It really depends on the dealer.  Some dealers like to lump many items together in one big order to save on shipping.  In addition, my dealer has good relationships with other local dealers.  If he doesn't have it in stock, he'll sometimes make a trip to get the item from another local dealer who has it in stock.


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## mrfjsf (Oct 7, 2010)

TreePointer said:
			
		

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Thank you for the insight my good man


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## HittinSteel (Oct 7, 2010)

....and you definitely want the non etech. The etech will also have "cat" stamped on the muffler I believe.


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## mrfjsf (Oct 7, 2010)

HittinSteel said:
			
		

> ....and you definitely want the non etech. The etech will also have "cat" stamped on the muffler I believe.



If they dont have a non-e tech in stock, I suppose I could just tell them to order me one right? The non-e techs still in production I assume?


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## HittinSteel (Oct 7, 2010)

I'm not sure if they are still being produced, but they are around at dealers. See what your dealer can find for you.


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## bogydave (Oct 7, 2010)

Like you 20" is the bar length.

I looked at the 346 XP, 
BUT::
The only down side for me was the selection of chains available for the .325" pitch.
Loved everything till I got to that.

Choosing  between the 359 & 357XP is where I am now.
From what I've read here, the XP  series may be more $$ but in the long run just a better built saw for power, handling & ergonomics (& maybe fuel consumption which now-a-days is an issue)
Hard to justify $160 more though.
May just have to cut more wood to justify the better saw.


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## HittinSteel (Oct 7, 2010)

bogydave said:
			
		

> Like you 20" is the bar length.
> 
> I looked at the 346 XP,
> BUT::
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The same selection of chains should be available for .325 and 3/8"

The 359 is a great saw and is basically the same as the 357XP. In my area the 346XP and 359 are very close to the same price and the 357XP is quite a bit more money. I think this makes the 359 the choice for a 20" bar.......unless you can get by with an 18" bar, and then the 346 looks best and would run 3/8" fine if you are against .325


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## bogydave (Oct 7, 2010)

HittinSteel said:
			
		

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I'm not a chain saw guru, so: 
What is the difference between chain selections between 3/8 (.375) & .325.
What is the big difference between 325 & 375 for cutting? (kerf?)
Was told  by 2 different chain saw dealers that there is less selection in the .325 chain size.
Was also told, (even the Husqvarna guy) that Sthil make the best chains & I could get one made for the 359 or 357 if they carry the good chisel chain in bulk & can make it. But not in .325
Is any of this true??

20" is sooooo much easier on my back, & 20" for the log sizes here is usually big enough for everything.

I really like the weight & $$ of the 346, it was the chain selection issue that took it off of my list. (but barely)


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## TreePointer (Oct 7, 2010)

Nonsense.  Some Stihl dealers only carry .325 pitch chain in .063 gauge, or just the green low kickback chain version.  It doesn't mean that Stihl doesn't make other types of .325 pitch chain.  

Less available selection?  I'd say that's true, but a 50cc saw or smaller doesn't really need to run much more than a good full-chisel or semi-chisel chain.  If you want to run semi-skip, full-skip, chipper, or square ground chain then you are doing things not typical of the average firewood cutter and likely will be using a different saw anyway.

I've run Stihl RMC (.325, .050) and Oregon 20LP/LPX and 95VP on  my NE346XP.  (20LP/LPX was from Baileys Online, 20VP came with the saw.)

I've also run into a dealer who told me that I don't want to run a certain pitch of chain on my saw.  Why?  After showing him in the Stihl catalog that they do indeed make the chain that I wanted, he finally admitted that he wanted to sell me what he had in stock.  Needless to say, I don't visit that dealer anymore.

BTW, I agree that with the Husqvarna dealer who said that Stihl makes some of the best chain on the market.


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## mrfjsf (Oct 7, 2010)

bogydave said:
			
		

> HittinSteel said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Im no saw expert either...How many different chains do you need? There are good enough chains out there for this saw in .325. A full selection of NK, semi and full chisel.


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## TreePointer (Oct 7, 2010)

mrfjsf said:
			
		

> Im no saw expert either...How many different chains do you need? There are good enough chains out there for this saw in .325.  A full selection of NK, semi and full chisel.



Bingo!


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## bogydave (Oct 7, 2010)

Sounds like I should put the 346XP back on the list. 
Somewhere I was reading that the 346 with a 20" is pushing it & it was mentioned again here by "hittensteel" above.

I did check out the Stihl chains online & can get one if needed 

I did call & check out prices at the husky dealer. Only has a 359 in store. (we had  bad windstorm last week & the local dealers, Stihl & Husqvarna have low or no inventory on saws.
Should be getting new ones in this week

346XP 20"    11.2 lbs      3.7 bhp    $509
359     20"    12.1 lbs      3.9 bhp    $549
357XP 20"    12.1 lbs      4.4 bhp    $709,  (+ I get a free Husqvqrna hat )

MS362 20"    13 lbs         4.6 bhp     $680
MS391 20"    14.1 lbs      4.4bhp      $529
MS311 20"    14.1 lbs      4.2 bhp     $500

weight is dry power head only 

Now it has been 28 years since I bought a saw, Husky 61 in 1982. So the prices are scary & the selection almost endless.
Probably the last saw I'll buy. If I wear it out, it'll be time to buy CSDS (cut,split,delivered,stacked) fire wood
May just treat myself &  get the 357XP & a hat   or a MS362. (more HP uhg uhg) Dealer to call when new shipment gets in this week.
Will see what they can sweeten the deal with. ( free case, chain, ???)

Didn't mean to hi-jack the thread, but got into it & got lots of good info & feedback.


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## mrfjsf (Oct 7, 2010)

Not a hi-jack at all.  Its all good info to read. Thanks for posting up your findings!


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## HittinSteel (Oct 7, 2010)

bogydave said:
			
		

> HittinSteel said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I don't think your getting good info from your dealer. The simple answer is, I run .325 RSC on my 260. Now, it is a 16" bar, but I have seen .325 available for the 20" bar. Oregon also has .325 chisel chain for a 20" bar.


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## lukem (Oct 7, 2010)

Whatever saw you get (from the long list mentioned above) and whatever chain config you go with, it is going to feel like a rocketship compared to the ol' Craftsman.  Good luck on your decision.


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## Battenkiller (Oct 7, 2010)

HittinSteel said:
			
		

> The 359 is a great saw and is basically the same as the 357XP. In my area the 346XP and 359 are very close to the same price and the 357XP is quite a bit more money. I think this makes the 359 the choice for a 20" bar.......unless you can get by with an 18" bar, and then the 346 looks best and would run 3/8" fine if you are against .325



Also no expert, but...

9600 RPM on the 357XP vs. 9000 RPM on the 359, 4.4 HP on the 357XP vs. 3.9 HP on the 359.  Not the same saw IMO, half a HP is a lot in a small engine.  The 346XP produces 3.7 HP and it has much better vibration characteristics than either the 357XP or the 359.  It seems to have a very strong following.  For $40 more, you only get .2 HP more with the 359 than with the 346XP and you have to carry around an extra pound to get that.  Slower chain speed as well.  If I needed a bigger saw, I'd definitely spend the extra money and go with the 357XP over the 359.  It's a lifetime investment for most of us here.  

Of course, I already own one, so I guess I'm forced to defend my gal. ;-)


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## bogydave (Oct 7, 2010)

Battenkiller said:
			
		

> HittinSteel said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



List is Down to 3
copied to this pg so I could remember specs
346XP 20”  11.2 lbs     3.7 bhp   $509
357XP 20”  12.1 lbs     4.4 bhp   $709,  (+ I get a free Husqvqrna hat )
MS362 20"    13 lbs     4.6 bhp   $680

Actually my wife said buy the one you want. Will probably be the last saw you buy. 
That made it more tough, I think that was her plan.  
Do I want light weight or more HP??? Machismo in me says "yes", old sore back says "are you sure, think this through".
.7 hp more is quite allot for .9 lbs more. (but for $200 ??)
Weight is an issue, so the Stihls get dropped off the list, I think (362 is a strong saw). (but a future stihl chain is on the list)

Will go look, touch & feel Husky's soon.  No 362 in my area to look at.
Leaning to the 357, 
If it was a "magnum", sold


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## Battenkiller (Oct 7, 2010)

bogydave said:
			
		

> Actually my wife said buy the one you want. Will probably be the last saw you buy.
> 
> That made it more tough, I think that was her plan.



Well, they never make it easy on us, do they. :roll:  ;-) 

We should get a pool going.  I say you will go with the 357XP, because if you go with a lesser saw you will always be doubting yourself.  Somewhere along the line you will say, "$200 divided by 20 years is $10 a year, so...."  Or something like that.


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## thinkxingu (Oct 7, 2010)

Find an MS361 somewhere and probably get a steal of a deal--I got mine for $560 or so with half a dozen bottles of 2-stroke mix, a gallon of bar oil, extra bar, and 2 extra chains.  Otherwise, 357xp because the hat adds 1/2 a horsepower.

S


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## TreePointer (Oct 7, 2010)

thinkxingu said:
			
		

> Find an MS361 somewhere and probably get a steal of a deal--I got mine for $560 or so with half a dozen bottles of 2-stroke mix, a gallon of bar oil, extra bar, and 2 extra chains.  Otherwise, 357xp because the hat adds 1/2 a horsepower.
> 
> S



Now that's the best advice I've seen regarding a saw for a 20" bar.  The 361 (20", 3/8, .050, 7t) is my favorite all-around firewood saw.


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## mrfjsf (Oct 8, 2010)

bogydave said:
			
		

> Battenkiller said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



The 357xp was the saw that originally drew me to Husky. By all means, if money wasn't an object for me right now, Id be buying a 357.  You are right though...is .7 more hp REALLY worth $200 more?  If money isnt much of an object then its a no brainer, get the 357. If money is a little tight (like it is with me) then it might not REALLY be worth it.  The other factor to consider is do you NEED something bigger than a 50cc saw? If not, then get the 346 and that $200 your saved can buy a boatload of chains, a carrying case and other nice goodies.  I dont really need anything much bigger than a 50cc for the type/size of wood I cut.  Would it be nice to have the extra power? sure! but like you said, for $200 more? Not in my case....

These are just some of the things I thought about to narrow my decision down.


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## DiscoInferno (Oct 8, 2010)

You know, this thread makes me sort of glad both my saws (359 and 455) were gifts.  Otherwise I might still be trying to decide...


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## TMonter (Oct 8, 2010)

Just as an FYI, I own a 036 Pro, 372XPW, MS440, and a 346XP and the 346 gets the most use if that tells you anything. a 346XP with a 16 or 18" bar will be more than enough for any firewood and with a good RSC or similar chain it will cut excellent.


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## raven (Oct 8, 2010)

I think the 357 is being replaced this yr with a new saw.


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## CJW88 (Oct 10, 2010)

Bogy, if it's going to be the last saw you ever buy and you're ok with the price difference then get the 357.  I used to use the 346 and the 357 at work and while the 346 is a nice little saw, the 357 has a noticable power gain, if you need it.  

In my eyes the only thing to consider is the price difference, but like I said, if it's the last saw you'll ever buy and you can cover it the difference really isn't much is it?  

mrfjsf, you'll be happy with the 346, it's a good little saw when used on the size of wood it's supposed to be used on.  One of the guys I worked with has been in the logging and tree service industry for almost 30 years and he loved the 346 and would constantly ask for it.  For 99% of your firewood it will be more than enough.  If I ever run across one cheap enough I'll pick it up.  


All that said, what do I know?  I run a Stihl 390.  But like women, they're all the same on the inside, some just weigh a little more.


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## mrfjsf (Oct 11, 2010)

For all of the 346 users, what chain do you all recommend for this saw? I know the stock bar and rim sprocket are .325.  But what about the guage? I saw the bar available in both .050 and .058 on husky web. What are most dealers giving out or do I have a choice?  Which guage would you recommend?  I know that Chisel is the most aggresive chain but most say that unless you are cutting "clean" wood, it will dull quickly. It is suggested that you should use semi-chisel if you have any risk of hitting dirt or are cutting "dirty" wood. So I am probably going to go with semi-chisel (unless you all suggest otherwise) due to the cutting conditions I am working with.  But should I just go regular semi-chisel or should I go narrow kerf? All signs im seeing point to NK being great for limbing purposes and fast bucking in very small diameter stuff, but in the larger stuff it tends to be slow at clearing out the chips, therefore slowing the overall cut down when compared to regular semi chisel.

Any 346 users care to comment on any of the above?  Im heading to the dealer this friday to buy the saw and want to have my ducks in a row first.


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## TreePointer (Oct 11, 2010)

I wanted to run a 16" bar on a NE346XP, so I bought the last one in the shop at the time; and it happened to have a "Husqvarna" narrow kerf (NK) bar with Oregon 95vp chain.   That is, both the bar and chain were NK .325" pitch and .050" gauge.  

Can you run regular (not NK chain) on an NK bar?  YES, and I do.  I use .325 pitch Oregon LPX chain and .325 pitch Stihl RSC.  The 95vp chain isn't too bad, either.

Essentially all my firewood cutting is with full-chisel chain.  Since I prefer to sharpen my chains in a heavy bench vise, I take 3-4 sharpened chains into the field with me every cutting session.  If sharpening is needed, I do have a stump vise and hand sharpening kit handy.  16" chain is fairly inexpensive, so try a good chain of each (semi- and full-chisel).  As of this posting, a 16" loop of LPX is $12.95 at BaileysOnline.com.

As for gauge, I always recommend going with what local shops stock in our region.  For me, that's almost always .050 gauge (and infrequently .063).  Also note that, for the same bar length, larger gauges add to bar weight.


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## mrfjsf (Oct 11, 2010)

TreePointer said:
			
		

> I wanted to run a 16" bar on a NE346XP, so I bought the last one in the shop at the time; and it happened to have a "Husqvarna" narrow kerf (NK) bar with Oregon 95vp chain.   That is, both the bar and chain were NK .325" pitch and .050" gauge.
> 
> Can you run regular (not NK chain) on an NK bar?  YES, and I do.  I use .325 pitch Oregon LPX chain and .325 pitch Stihl RSC.  The 95vp chain isn't too bad, either.
> 
> ...



Thanks! I'll pick up a loop of the 20LPX then to give it a go and compare the two with the cutting I do.  I want to see just how quickly it dulls compared to NK.


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## wendell (Oct 13, 2010)

I run .058, .325 RSC and LPX on mine. I like the RSC I bit better. I'm currently running 16" but found it a little short a couple times this weekend so will probably move up to an 18".


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## abby4000 (Oct 13, 2010)

Bodydave
I purchased a MS632 a few months ago. Great saw. Just to let you know thw actual wieght of the saw with 20" bar, full gas and oil is 17.3 lbs
Good luck with your decision.


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## bogydave (Oct 13, 2010)

My son-in-law says the 346xp is the saw I really should get.
Light weight, will do anything that I do with my old Husqy 61 & more easily.
Says he used one for years in OR & of all the saws they had, it was most preferred on to use.
I do like the 20" bar, but I don't know if that takes too much power away. S-I-L says even wit a 20" bar,
it will out cut the old (1982) 61 I have.
May have to order it though as right now, none in local dealers/stores.

346XP 20”  11.2 lbs   3.7 bhp   $509
357XP 20”  12.1 lbs   4.4 bhp   $709


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## smokinj (Oct 13, 2010)

I have learn to just pass up the 50-60cc range and go 70+ cc all the time unless there is a lot of brush. Then under 40cc and very light.


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## Battenkiller (Oct 13, 2010)

bogydave said:
			
		

> My son-in-law says the 346xp is the saw I really should get.



After reading about Wendell's recent log slaughter and how much he used his 346, there just may be something to that advice.  Besides being "enough gun" for 95% of what you'll need, it has the lowest vibration numbers of any of their saws and it's $200 cheaper.  You can buy it in 16" and buy a 20" bar and several chains for each bar, plus new chaps and safety helmet for that difference.


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## wendell (Oct 14, 2010)

I would agree. I had the bar buried often and it just blew (well, not 7900 blew but for 50 cc's, pretty darn impressive) through the wood. It is a joy to run!


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## mrfjsf (Oct 14, 2010)

bogydave said:
			
		

> My son-in-law says the 346xp is the saw I really should get.
> Light weight, will do anything that I do with my old Husqy 61 & more easily.
> Says he used one for years in OR & of all the saws they had, it was most preferred on to use.
> I do like the 20" bar, but I don't know if that takes too much power away. S-I-L says even wit a 20" bar,
> ...



I was thinking about this the other day...for the diff in price between a 346 and 357, the 346 just seems like the right choice. I mean if you are willing to spend $200 more for not that much hp difference, then by all means, spend another $150 and get the 372 or for only a $100 more, get the 576. It just doesnt make sense to me to spend so much for so little improvement. If your gonna go, go big or dont go at all....

Anyway, friday is off to the dealer in hunt of a 346. I hope they have it in stock and dont try to **** me on price. Wish me luck.


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## bogydave (Oct 14, 2010)

I think the prices are kinda standard, MSRP set by Husq.
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/landowner/products/chainsaws/346-xp-/#articles
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/landowner/products/chainsaws/357-xp-/#articles
What I learned you can do though, is get an extra bar, chain or case at big discounts when 
you buy a new saw at list. 
At least one free chain or no deal. Works for sure if you have more than one dealer in your area. 
But it is that time of year that everyone is buying saws. (like I mentioned in an above post, 
they sold out their inventory here 3 weeks ago, wind storm; lots of down tress needed cut off ROWs & utilities)
(Like in the spring, It's the wrong time to buy a boat & try to deal)
Hopefully I "jump off" deciding this week & get one ordered or buy off the shelf & get to work getting 2012 wood.


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## mrfjsf (Oct 14, 2010)

yeah I figured I would likely pay full price given the time of year it is. I didnt know if dealers tried to price gouge (sp?) when the demand was high. Hopefully I can get a loop of chain or a t-shirt outta the deal though.


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## CJW88 (Oct 14, 2010)

Having to order a saw isn't really that out of the ordinary.  Alot of places don't carry all of the saws.  And the ones they do carry, they can't keep alot of them on hand.  I had to order my Stihl 390 and it only took a few days to get here.  See if you can get something free out of the deal though.  Stihl didn't give me s**t.  I even had to buy the stupid scabbard extension for the 20" bar.


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## midwestcoast (Oct 14, 2010)

There is another option if you'd prefer the 60cc power and it's only the price diff that puts you off.  The 359 is essentially a de-tuned 357XP (at $160 discount). Construction is nearly identical except: 357XP has a domed piston, a bit smaller bore & crankcase fillers. The 359 has flat-top piston, larger bore and (the big difference) a Catalytic Muffler.  The Cat muffler is the main reason for the 359 showing 0.5hp less than the 357; a result of the exhaust being restricted. So after break-in you can buy a non-cat muffler from Baileysonline or somewhere for about $40, or find a used one cheaper, then drill another exhaust hole in it & adjust carb tuning (all easy with instructions on arboristsite or from folks here).  That should get you a ~4.3-4.5hp pro-grade saw with $100 or so still in your pocket.  If you need service, just switch back to the Cat muffler before taking it in.


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## DiscoInferno (Oct 14, 2010)

Why doesn't the 357XP have similar muffler issues?


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## midwestcoast (Oct 14, 2010)

357 doesn't have a cat muffler.
As for why that is, I dunno all the ins & outs of the regs but it kinda boils down to: EPA has been pressuring the manufacturers to reduce 2-stroke emissions for a while, but in the back-and-forth a compromise was struck that they only had to reduce overall emissions, not per saw. So they're cleaning them up a few at a time either with strato engines or cat mufflers. Often the Pro line are the last to be altered.


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## DiscoInferno (Oct 14, 2010)

I don't think my 2004 or 2005 359 has a cat muffler either, I think they showed up right after that.


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## mrfjsf (Oct 15, 2010)

Just called the dealer today, he has a fewe 346xp's on hand, price is $499. I dont know if they are the e-tech's with the cats or not but the price is matching up with that of the non-etechs. (Provided he gave me list price)E-techs are running list price at $539 I believe. Im gonna try to get them down to $450 or I want goodies for free. Im going to check and see if he has any 359's as well to have a looksie at them. What are your thoughts about the 359 compared to the 346 in terms of cutting ability and pro-grade saw? If I can buy a 359 for the same price as a 346, would you suggest the 359 instead?


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## bogydave (Oct 15, 2010)

mrfjsf said:
			
		

> Just called the dealer today, he has a fewe 346xp's on hand, price is $499. I dont know if they are the e-tech's with the cats or not but the price is matching up with that of the non-etechs. (Provided he gave me list price)E-techs are running list price at $539 I believe. Im gonna try to get them down to $450 or I want goodies for free. Im going to check and see if he has any 359's as well to have a looksie at them. What are your thoughts about the 359 compared to the 346 in terms of cutting ability and pro-grade saw? If I can buy a 359 for the same price as a 346, would you suggest the 359 instead?



Good question.
Close to the same BHP.
346 is a pound lighter.
 between the 2, I like the lighter one. 
But with mods on the 359, close to the 357. & 3/8s chain(which now I don't think is an issue for me)

Wish you guys would quit making it so tough.
I was set to get the 346XP with a 20" & maybe later get a 16" bar, but don't know why i need another bar, maybe cause it sounds cool. 
the 4" more reach seems it would be easier on the back.
Maybe I should go with the 18" bar (in-between) & get to work. LOL


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## mrfjsf (Oct 15, 2010)

bogydave said:
			
		

> mrfjsf said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Im going with an 18" no matter what saw I get. I really think im just going for a 346. I dont see much of a need for a 60cc saw. I plan on later in life buying a good 70 or 80cc for the large stuff and to play with.

Im getting it tomorrow and headin to the woods straight away. I'll let you know how she does.


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## midwestcoast (Oct 15, 2010)

mrfjsf said:
			
		

> Just called the dealer today, he has a fewe 346xp's on hand, price is $499. I dont know if they are the e-tech's with the cats or not but the price is matching up with that of the non-etechs. (Provided he gave me list price)E-techs are running list price at $539 I believe. Im gonna try to get them down to $450 or I want goodies for free. Im going to check and see if he has any 359's as well to have a looksie at them. What are your thoughts about the 359 compared to the 346 in terms of cutting ability and pro-grade saw? If I can buy a 359 for the same price as a 346, would you suggest the 359 instead?


Think this really comes down to the wood you'll be cutting. If you'll be burying a 20" bar quite a bit, or just need to have 1 saw that can handle the big stuff & smaller stuff fairly well than you may want 60cc. If you'll be mainly cutting wood under 18" then 50cc probably the better choice.


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## bogydave (Oct 15, 2010)

Lucky you
I'm ready to buy & don't have any I can touch & feel.
I might just have to order one.
For that much money, I sure want to look, touch & kick the tires before I buy.
Ordering aaarrg,  may still be 2 weeks before I touch it.


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## mrfjsf (Oct 16, 2010)

Well, it was merry xmas and happy-bday for me yesterday. Went over to the dealer, saw a shiny new 346xp 18" bar (non-cat, grey gas cap) hanging on the wall calling my name. Price was $499. I asked if the price was a little negotiable. Said no but ill throw in some stuff for you. So I said lets do it! :cheese: Ended up getting the saw w/full tank of fuel and bar oil, 2 loops of Carlton chisel (these are really nice chains BTW), a file, some 2 stroke oil, and a bar cover for $528 including tax and all.

So I got it home, read through the manual, went out to the wood pile and buzzed off some cookies. All I can say about this saw is WOW! It doesnt compare to any other 50cc saw I have ran! The power to weight ratio on this thing is incredible.  Its lighter than my 42cc craftsman. It just flat out SCREAMS! And I dont even have a tank of gas through it yet, I can't imagine when this thing gets really broke in and tuned up. I didnt get to bury it nice and deep into anything cause I just dont have any logs that round laying around.  I did get to head over to my buddies farm and knock a few down. I am so impressed with how this saw handles, It honestly feels like an extension of my arm. 

If you are on the fence about buying this saw, get off the fence, get in your car and go buy one. You wont regret it...I know I dont! :coolsmile:


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## Battenkiller (Oct 16, 2010)

Congrats!  Glad to see you finally got one.  Have fun with 'er, just make sure you take it easy on that lil' gal for the first several tanks and she'll be there for you when you need her down the road.

Kinda like a wife, I guess. %-P


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## bogydave (Oct 16, 2010)

Way to go.  Sounds like you got a great deal. I hope to do as well as you did.
Shipment is to be in next week sometime.  
20"   346 XPG (heated grips)  uuummm. thinking about it since I cut mostly in winter.
That's all thats slowing me down, none here in my area to buy "now".


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## thinkxingu (Oct 16, 2010)

The best deal is the one you can live with, so rock on!

S


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## midwestcoast (Oct 16, 2010)

Congrats & enjoy!


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## mrfjsf (Oct 17, 2010)

Battenkiller said:
			
		

> Congrats!  Glad to see you finally got one.  Have fun with 'er, just make sure you take it easy on that lil' gal for the first several tanks and she'll be there for you when you need her down the road.
> 
> Kinda like a wife, I guess. %-P



When you say "take it easy", are you referring to not cutting at WOT? or not free-revving the crap out of it with no load on the motor? I was told to never cut at anything but WOT.


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## CJW88 (Oct 17, 2010)

On a new motor you shouldn't run it at full RPM much with or without a load.  Everything is much tighter in a new engine and needs to be given time to break in.   This means lower RPM's and less heat.  Start out cutting the smallest stuff you have and work your way up.  For the first 2 tanks I wouldn't run it at full RPM at all.  After that reach full RPM's for a few seconds then let down to mid throttle.  On my 390 I noticed a power difference after the first 5 or 6 tanks.  Now I run her like a ***** ape and she loves every minute of it.  Your owners manual should tell you what to do, but what battenkiller and I said is a good rule of thumb.  

It's hard not to run it full out but you'll be glad you did later.  

Good luck with it and I'm glad you're happy with it.


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## wendell (Oct 17, 2010)

This probably won't help (but now it gives you something else to covet) but the advice I am following is to tune the saw to 13,200 for the first 5-10 tanks, then up to 13,800. I intend to leave mine there but after about 5 gallons of fuel, you can go up to the max RPM's.


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## HittinSteel (Oct 17, 2010)

Congrats on the new saw!

Run it like you stole it, the rings will seat better and much faster. Just no extended no load WOT.


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## Battenkiller (Oct 17, 2010)

I'm not a mechanic, but I've always been advised to break in a new engine slowly.  This would mean lower sustained RPMs for whatever running time is recommended and no overheating.  If this is incorrect, someone owes me a good explanation why I've been doing it all wrong.  Even then, I think I'll take Wendell's advise when I get my new 346 (Ha, ha... yeah, like that'll be happening any time soon). %-P


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## HittinSteel (Oct 17, 2010)

I think the manual for most saws (at least my 260) says run the saw as normal, just no WOT under no load.


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## mrfjsf (Oct 17, 2010)

HittinSteel said:
			
		

> I think the manual for most saws (at least my 260) says run the saw as normal, just no WOT under no load.



This is exactly what the manual led me to believe. One part says "Running In"-avoid running at a too high speed for extended periods during the first 10 hours.  Then under the "Basic cutting technique" section it says verbatum "Always use full throttle when cutting!" In fact it is the very first thing in the list. 

That is the only two places the manual talks about throttle levels.  

Im cornfused


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## Battenkiller (Oct 18, 2010)

mrfjsf said:
			
		

> HittinSteel said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I don't know... maybe they're just trying to sell us new saws when the old ones crap? :lol: 


I think the point about always cutting at full throttle is that the saw needs to run at high chain speeds to cut effectively and with max HP.  Doesn't mean you have to run it for a long time periods in the beginning.  Most stuff I've read pertains to letting the saw cool and then starting another session.  Some guys recommend extensive periods of idling between cuts.  Wendell's info seem to be useful, can't say the saw won't cut when set for a slightly lower top RPM.  I wouldn't know how to do that accurately since I don't own a tach.

I really don't think you did anything to your new saw from the sounds of it, but I'd at least ask the chainsaw dudes over on AS and form a consensus on the subject before you go full-bore cutting with it.  Then again, it's your machine, didn't mean to sound preachy. ;-)


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## mrfjsf (Oct 18, 2010)

Double Post..


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## mrfjsf (Oct 18, 2010)

Battenkiller said:
			
		

> mrfjsf said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



By all means I do appreciate all info. I want to break her in the right way. Perhaps I'll take it easy on her for the next few tanks. I have about a tank and a half through it already. Ill give it til about 8 or 10 tanks before I really crank on it.


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## Battenkiller (Oct 18, 2010)

The one good thing about a used saw (besides the price) is that you don't have to worry about any of this.  Either someone broke it in right or they didn't.  No way to really tell AFAIK, so I'll just assume mine was babied for months in the beginning.  It seems to have good compression and runs good and strong.  If it shows signs of dying a premature death, I can sell it on Ebay for more than I paid for it.  I just bid on a non-running parts 357XP with only 90 pounds compression.  Thought it'd be handy to have for $50 or so.  It went for $255... $30 more than I paid for a good working one I found on CL.


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## HittinSteel (Oct 18, 2010)

The gurus on AS will give you the same advice I did......that's where it came from and the manual !


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## mrfjsf (Oct 18, 2010)

HittinSteel said:
			
		

> The gurus on AS will give you the same advice I did......that's where it came from and the manual !



You are correct my good man! Did a search over there, found that most all say to just use it, but no WOT under no load. The saw will be completely broke-in after 5-10 tanks.

Thanks for the help guys!


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## wendell (Oct 18, 2010)

I wouldn't necessarily do this since your limiter caps may be set a bit different than mine but what I found is that with my saw leaned all the way (clockwise), I am at 13,200 which is a very safe speed for break in. I also had the chance to talk to a 23 year Jonsered mechanic and he said a saw isn't broken in until you've run 5 gallons through it.

I would not try to run your saw less than full throttle when cutting. I would think your dealer would have a tach and could set it for you for your peace of mind.


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## mrfjsf (Oct 19, 2010)

wendell said:
			
		

> I wouldn't necessarily do this since your limiter caps may be set a bit different than mine but what I found is that with my saw leaned all the way (clockwise), I am at 13,200 which is a very safe speed for break in. I also had the chance to talk to a 23 year Jonsered mechanic and he said a saw isn't broken in until you've run 5 gallons through it.
> 
> I would not try to run your saw less than full throttle when cutting. I would think your dealer would have a tach and could set it for you for your peace of mind.



He said to bring it back after about 10-15 hrs of cut time and he would tune it.  It seems to be running a tad rich as it is. It 4 strokes a good bit out of the cut and once in a while I'll get it in the cut, depends on the wood im cutting. Im gonna take it back to them after I get around 10 tanks through it and have him tune it up and then see how she sounds.


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## DiscoInferno (Oct 19, 2010)

I was under the impression that new saws are always set rich, although my 359 is currently set as rich as the tabs will allow and it still tachs over 13500 at WOT.  It 4-strokes plenty so I figure it's OK, but it makes we wonder what the RPMs were when I first got it (and had no tach).  I should go tach the 455 (which is still pretty new and has factory/dealer carb settings) and see.


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## TreePointer (Oct 19, 2010)

DiscoInferno said:
			
		

> *I was under the impression that new saws are always set rich*, although my 359 is currently set as rich as the tabs will allow and it still tachs over 13500 at WOT.  It 4-strokes plenty so I figure it's OK, but it makes we wonder what the RPMs were when I first got it (and had no tach).  I should go tach the 455 (which is still pretty new and has factory/dealer carb settings) and see.



It depends on the saw and the dealer.  To meet government emission standards, many saws have been shipped lean from the factory.  Some dealers don't adjust them before giving them to the customer, which is irresponsible in my book.


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## Cowboy Billy (Oct 19, 2010)

mrfjsf said:
			
		

> HittinSteel said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Its my understanding is that the card is designed to work at idle and WOT and running it a partial throttle may through the fuel mix way off. I believe the "running for extended times" is the point. If you are blocking a big log give it some time to cool down between cuts. Or switch from blocking to limbing and back again.

Billy


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## Battenkiller (Oct 19, 2010)

Cowboy Billy said:
			
		

> Its my understanding is that the card is designed to work at idle and WOT and running it a partial throttle may through the fuel mix way off. I believe the "running for extended times" is the point. If you are blocking a big log give it some time to cool down between cuts. Or switch from blocking to limbing and back again.



That's what I thought, but then I called master chainsaw carver Brian Ruth last night about the Redmax carving saw he sells.  During the conversation (he's a very helpful and friendly fellow) I asked about that very issue.  He said it is somewhat saw dependent, and he doesn't like the small Stihls for carving for that exact reason.  They only run well at idle or full out.  Carvers need reasonable power at less than full throttle, especially when detailing with the tip of a dime bar.  You'll blow your saw up carving at WOT since the bar is never buried in the wood at all, just the tip.

BTW, I think I'm buying one of his saws.  I've been interested in carving for awhile now.  He is the only U.S. source for the Redmax G3200 CV (which he helped design), so I will be a pretty lucky guy to own one.  FWIW, Brian said to just run the saw as well, the only break in he does is to run a full tank at idle, blipping the throttle every now and then to keep it from loading up.  He uses Amsoil at 80:1, but says you can run it at 100:1 with no ill effects using the Amsoil, for a basically smoke-free saw.


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## ash burn (Oct 26, 2010)

I needed a new saw also, found this thread on the two manufactures I was considering. Great amount of info! Thanks for all that contributed. So, I bought a husky 346xp with a pro 18" bar, based on comments on this thread, price, light weight, did need more than a 50cc saw and what I thought was a two year warranty. btw, husky has just changed the warranty on the XP to 6 months. went through two tanks of fuel...it cuts fast! blows away my 10 year old 45cc timberman.


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## HittinSteel (Oct 26, 2010)

ash burn said:
			
		

> I needed a new saw also, found this thread on the two manufactures I was considering. Great amount of info! Thanks for all that contributed. So, I bought a husky 346xp with a pro 18" bar, based on comments on this thread, price, light weight, did need more than a 50cc saw and what I thought was a two year warranty. btw, husky has just changed the warranty on the XP to 6 months. went through two tanks of fuel...it cuts fast! blows away my 10 year old 45cc timberman.



News to me on the warranty.......it is 6 months for professional use I know, but the consumer should still be 2 years.


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## ash burn (Oct 26, 2010)

just called the dealer about the warranty, he told me 6 months at the time of purchase, which was yesterday. you are correct, 6 mo commercial, 2 yr consumer.


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