# Calling all Sooteater Owners!!..



## CK-1 (Sep 19, 2012)

I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on a Sooteater Chimney System.   I currently have sem-flexible 4' rods that cleans a six-inch SS-liner around 36' long.  Since I clean from the bottom-up anyway, this could be a good investment.   My setup doesn't have any extreme bends.

I did some research and read that some people had problems cleaning from the bottom-up when the Sooteater hit the chimney cap.   Since I do have a cap, this is a concern.    Another concern, is the Sooteater capable of handling rods that extend to around 36' long?.  Three of my existing rods have cracks in them due to a bend that begins at the top of the insert.   Yet again, these rods are not that flexible and have lasted for a few years...

Any help is appreciated..


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## DanCorcoran (Sep 19, 2012)

Sooteater recommends cleaning from the top down...I did that and it worked fine.  (That is, inserted the rods from the bottom, pushing them all the way to the top, then started cleaning from the top down).


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## BrotherBart (Sep 19, 2012)

Mine bound up at around 30 feet on my basement chimney with a 90 degree turn up out of the crock cleaning from the bottom up. Smoked a new corded drill. The rods flex and flop around absorbing the energy from the drill.


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## CK-1 (Sep 19, 2012)

Just remembered.   The only bend I have is thru the direct connect which isn't much.   From there, its a straight shot up the liner to the cap..


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## golfandwoodnut (Sep 19, 2012)

DanCorcoran said:


> Sooteater recommends cleaning from the top down...I did that and it worked fine. (That is, inserted the rods from the bottom, pushing them all the way to the top, then started cleaning from the top down).


That is odd, never remember reading that. I clean on the way up, one rod at a time, then clean again on the way down, one rod at a time. Getting the cap can be an issue as the diameter may not reach the sides, if you have no cap, then I do not see an issue.


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## turbocruiser (Sep 20, 2012)

golfandwoodnut said:


> That is odd, never remember reading that. I clean on the way up, one rod at a time, then clean again on the way down, one rod at a time. Getting the cap can be an issue as the diameter may not reach the sides, if you have no cap, then I do not see an issue.


 

Yes that is odd in that I too don't remember reading that.  I also start at the bottom, cleaning as I add rods, go to the top, the clean as I subtract rods.  After all that I still get up on the roof to remove the cap and clean it with a bristle brush.


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## CK-1 (Sep 20, 2012)

I'm concerned about the rotating tip that swirls around.   Once it comes out of the liner at the top and swirls around could it hit the cap and cause  any damage to the cap itself and/or the cleaning swirls?...

If you look at the Bottom-Up link in my sig. you can actually see  rod(s) already in the pipe.   But I mostly clean with the stove still in place and the baffle removed to access the pipe...


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## DanCorcoran (Sep 20, 2012)

turbocruiser said:


> Yes that is odd in that I too don't remember reading that. I also start at the bottom, cleaning as I add rods, go to the top, the clean as I subtract rods. After all that I still get up on the roof to remove the cap and clean it with a bristle brush.


 
Whether I read it in the Sooteater instructions or on this forum, I don't remember.  But the rationale was that you should push the rods to the top when they're not spinning to prevent damage to the cap.  You know when you're at the top if you are pushing them by hand, rather than holding a drill.  I cleaned mine that way and it worked fine.  Because I now know how far it is to the cap, I wouldn't be concerned about cleaning in both directions the next time.


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## muncybob (Sep 21, 2012)

Dan, good idea. This weekend will be my 1st Sooteater experience and I'll keep this in mind.


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## DanCorcoran (Sep 21, 2012)

muncybob said:


> Dan, good idea. This weekend will be my 1st Sooteater experience and I'll keep this in mind.


 
Here are some photos and a writeup of my Sooteater experience, if they help.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/cleaning-the-flue-on-a-hearthstone-shelburne.87644/#post-1134032


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## etiger2007 (Sep 21, 2012)

I to am looking at one of those, I like the idea of cleaning from inside the house, I have an insert and wonder how much soot dust will get into the house because we have to clean with the door open on the insert?


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## turbocruiser (Sep 21, 2012)

etiger2007 said:


> I to am looking at one of those, I like the idea of cleaning from inside the house, I have an insert and wonder how much soot dust will get into the house because we have to clean with the door open on the insert?


 

Hardly any at all if you put the plastic sheeting (which is included) across the opening to the firebox; you tape the perimeter of plastic all around and poke two holes through one for the rods and one for the vacuum and then almost everything is essentially dustless.  It works really well.


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## etiger2007 (Sep 21, 2012)

turbocruiser said:


> Hardly any at all if you put the plastic sheeting (which is included) across the opening to the firebox; you tape the perimeter of plastic all around and poke two holes through one for the rods and one for the vacuum and then almost everything is essentially dustless. It works really well.


 
awsome


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## scooby074 (Sep 22, 2012)

I have a Sooteater and love it!! I clean my chimney way more often. I never touch my old rod brush anymore


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## blacktail (Sep 22, 2012)

The first time I used mine, I pushed it up so the brush head was where I'd want to stop when cleaning. It took a few times of going outside to look. Then I put tape around the last rod where it enters the stove. I know when that tape meets the plastic over the door, I've gone far enough.


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## BrotherBart (Sep 22, 2012)

Most of the examples in the SootEater manual are for cleaning bottom up.


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## Treacherous (Sep 22, 2012)

No problems twirling about in my cap.  Not sure how everyone's cap is secured but mine would require some wing nuts to be removed for it to become loose.



CK-1 said:


> I'm concerned about the rotating tip that swirls around. Once it comes out of the liner at the top and swirls around could it hit the cap and cause any damage to the cap itself and/or the cleaning swirls?...
> .


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## Treacherous (Sep 22, 2012)

I'm thinking about getting a 20 foot hose extension for my shop vac next time and then just run vacuum outside and hose through a window.


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## CK-1 (Sep 24, 2012)

Treacherous said:


> No problems twirling about in my cap. Not sure how everyone's cap is secured but mine would require some wing nuts to be removed for it to become loose.


 
Cool.  I was worried about those nylon swirly things hitting the cap and breaking off.  Kinda like a weed trimmer losing some of its nylon string when it hits something hard..


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## CK-1 (Sep 24, 2012)

BrotherBart said:


> Most of the examples in the SootEater manual are for cleaning bottom up.


 
Hey BB,

A few years ago on a dark stormy night in the forum.  You recommended some flex chimney rods for my bottom-up cleaning, which I currently use now.  I just hope the Sooteater can do a 36+ foot cleaning with no problems...


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## muncybob (Sep 24, 2012)

I cleaned my chimney for the 1st time yesterday with the Sooteater. My chimney is about 30' and the closest I can get to the 90* elbow at the bottom is about 6' from it...cleaned from the bottom up for a total of about 36' and it performed well. I was nervous about making that 90 turn based on the manual but no problems. Biggest PITA I had was my cordless drill battery died on me and had to get the old fashioned drill out.


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## BrotherBart (Sep 24, 2012)

I just went to clean the liner on the first floor with the sooteater and after messing with attaching the second rod I pulled the stuff out and just went up on the roof, dropped a rope and pulled the brush through like I have always done. In my setup it is just a heck of a lot easier. Well, at least while my knees still kinda work.


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## Treacherous (Sep 24, 2012)

BrotherBart said:


> I just went to clean the liner on the first floor with the sooteater and after messing with attaching the second rod I pulled the stuff out and just went up on the roof, dropped a rope and pulled the brush through like I have always done. In my setup it is just a heck of a lot easier. Well, at least while my knees still kinda work.


 
I'd do that too if I could but I have an extremely steep pitched metal roof.  It doesn't help that I don't care much for heights either.


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## BrotherBart (Sep 24, 2012)

I hear ya. If I didn't have a mild pitch on the roof I wouldn't get up there. Or if it was metal either.


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## CK-1 (Sep 27, 2012)

muncybob said:


> I cleaned my chimney for the 1st time yesterday with the Sooteater. My chimney is about 30' and the closest I can get to the 90* elbow at the bottom is about 6' from it...cleaned from the bottom up for a total of about 36' and it performed well. I was nervous about making that 90 turn based on the manual but no problems. Biggest PITA I had was my cordless drill battery died on me and had to get the old fashioned drill out.


 

Cool...  How many rods did you use?


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## muncybob (Sep 27, 2012)

I bought 2 full kits. Just made sense money wise since you get an extra head that way. Used all but 1 rod, 11 total. I found using a small nail punch made it easier to depress the release button.


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## daveswoodhauler (Sep 27, 2012)

muncybob said:


> I bought 2 full kits. Just made sense money wise since you get an extra head that way. Used all but 1 rod, 11 total. I found using a small nail punch made it easier to depress the release button.


 
Did the same here.

Also, here is a tip if you purchase. When it comes time to trim the "weedwacker" part to fit your pipe, loosen up the nut and just pull the lead through until you have the right diameter (Cut one side instead of both sides) This should leave you enough extra line as a backup in case you go through the original one.


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## cygnus (Sep 27, 2012)

daveswoodhauler said:


> Did the same here.
> 
> Also, here is a tip if you purchase. When it comes time to trim the "weedwacker" part to fit your pipe, loosen up the nut and just pull the lead through until you have the right diameter (Cut one side instead of both sides) This should leave you enough extra line as a backup in case you go through the original one.


 
That's a good tip.  Thanks.

I've used mine once and it was super easy.  Went bottom up, 35' with no bend other then through the door and into the liner.  I taped off the plastic sheet on the front but didn't use a vacuum and had no dust problme.  I think anything that would float into the house would have floated up the stack with the natural draft.  Using a corded drill is a must.


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## muncybob (Sep 28, 2012)

Yea Dave, I remembered reading that tip about trimming the line and that's what I did. Looks like the line is easily replaced too if the equipment lasts that long.

The cordless drill would have done the job for me, problem I have is they are some very old nicad batteries that just don't hold the charge anymore so I'm in the market for a new drill....probably go lithium this time as I read they don't have the memory drain problem like the nicads.


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## daveswoodhauler (Sep 28, 2012)

muncybob said:


> I bought 2 full kits. Just made sense money wise since you get an extra head that way. Used all but 1 rod, 11 total. I found using a small nail punch made it easier to depress the release button.


 Also, good Idea on using the nail punch. I have to say the thing I least like about the soot eater is that getting the rods together and apart can be a little difficult....usually the tip of my fingers and thumbs feel it for the next 3 days or so. I wish they made them a bit easier to connect, but they probably make it this was so they don't "disconnect" while you are using it, lol


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## scooby074 (Sep 30, 2012)

daveswoodhauler said:


> Also, good Idea on using the nail punch. I have to say the thing I least like about the soot eater is that getting the rods together and apart can be a little difficult....usually the tip of my fingers and thumbs feel it for the next 3 days or so. I wish they made them a bit easier to connect, but they probably make it this was so they don't "disconnect" while you are using it, lol


 
Did yours (and the others with issues unhooking the sections) not come with the "pointed" allen key? It's provided for pushing in the spring loaded connectors.  Maybe it was no longer included in ones sold after mine?


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## muncybob (Sep 30, 2012)

scooby074 said:


> Did yours (and the others with issues unhooking the sections) not come with the "pointed" allen key? It's provided for pushing in the spring loaded connectors. Maybe it was no longer included in ones sold after mine?


 
Well look at that Yep, they have the pointed end....never noticed. I'll remember that next year!


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## sksmass (Sep 30, 2012)

CK-1 said:


> I'm concerned about the rotating tip that swirls around. Once it comes out of the liner at the top and swirls around could it hit the cap and cause any damage to the cap itself and/or the cleaning swirls?....


 
Here's my write-up on my first soot-eater cleaning:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/using-sooteater-to-clean-chimney-first-time-tips.90981/

I stopped just short of cleaning the cap.  I measured the exact distance to the cap by taping a glow-stick to the rods and having someone watch from outside until they could see the light.


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## scooby074 (Sep 30, 2012)

muncybob said:


> Well look at that Yep, they have the pointed end....never noticed. I'll remember that next year!


 
Even the included punch isnt perfect. The whole lock system isnt the best design from an installing and removing rod point of view, but it stays locked very well and I guess that's the important part!

When trimming the head, do you guys follow the instructions as to diameter? Ive been thinking that with my new head, I'm going to leave it long to maybe scrub a bit better and last a bit longer.


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## bluedogz (Sep 30, 2012)

turbocruiser said:


> Hardly any at all if you put the plastic sheeting (which is included) across the opening to the firebox; you tape the perimeter of plastic all around and poke two holes through one for the rods and one for the vacuum and then almost everything is essentially dustless. It works really well.


 
+1... works best if your spouse is over your shoulder grousing that you'll make a mess.

Also, if you're too lazy to tape the plastic, a wet towel draped over the rods works quite nicely.


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## muncybob (Oct 1, 2012)

scooby074 said:


> Even the included punch isnt perfect. The whole lock system isnt the best design from an installing and removing rod point of view, but it stays locked very well and I guess that's the important part!
> 
> When trimming the head, do you guys follow the instructions as to diameter? Ive been thinking that with my new head, I'm going to leave it long to maybe scrub a bit better and last a bit longer.


 
I trimmed mine just over the actual pipe diameter, probably 1/4" long  on each end. Seemed to work fine.


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## muncybob (Mar 2, 2013)

An update on my Soot Eater experiences. From now on I will use the strings several inches longer than the pipe diameter. It does a much better job as long as your drill has enough torque to spin the head. What I will not do is run my drill in high gear again. I broke one of the rod collars doing this, thankfully it was at the bottom of the chimney and I was able to reach in and grab the broken rod and pull it out.


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## Enplater (Nov 29, 2017)

I also broke a rod pulling it out.  I tried calling them a couple times to see if they could just send me a new rod but they told me I had to return it to the place I got it from which is Amazon so looks like I'll have to do that or buy another rod kit.  I do need one extra rod anyway, I forgot to take my t into consideration so I'm a few inches short of the cap.


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