# Update on Magic Heat maintenance!



## VCBurner (Jan 27, 2010)

I just got one of these from another hearth member for free.  I did not get the manual so I figured I'd ask.  Does anyone have one of these?  I was wondering how far off the stovetop to instal and what the slidding bar is for in the middle of all the heating vents?  Thanks for the help in advance.


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## madrone (Jan 27, 2010)

was it Pook?


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## begreen (Jan 27, 2010)

Search on Magic Heat for more info


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## Jags (Jan 27, 2010)

A.) Don't do it.
B.) that slide thingy is to clean the goo off of the unit.  Imagine whats above that unit???????

EPA stoves have already been designed to minimize waist heat going up the stack.  Adding another box to pull out MORE heat is a bad idea.


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## Fsappo (Jan 27, 2010)

Mounts 18" to 24" above appliance
Clearance to combustibles is 18". The electrical cord must be kept 12" from the stove/stovepipe. In addition, the Magic Heat can only be used with single wall connector pipe. 

Owners manual. I found it by typing "Magic Heat Owners Manual" in google  

http://www.northlineexpress.com/Images/Pdf/MagicHeat_OwnersManual.pdf


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## VCBurner (Jan 27, 2010)

madrone said:
			
		

> was it Pook?



No this guy's name is Scott


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## VCBurner (Jan 27, 2010)

Franks said:
			
		

> Mounts 18" to 24" above appliance
> Clearance to combustibles is 18". The electrical cord must be kept 12" from the stove/stovepipe. In addition, the Magic Heat can only be used with single wall connector pipe.
> 
> Owners manual. I found it by typing "Magic Heat Owners Manual" in google
> ...



Franks, do you use one of these?


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## Fsappo (Jan 27, 2010)

No, I never used one of them.


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## firefighterjake (Jan 27, 2010)

VCBurner said:
			
		

> I just got one of these from another hearth member for free.  I did not get the manual so I figured I'd ask.  Does anyone have one of these?  I was wondering how far off the stovetop to instal and what the slidding bar is for in the middle of all the heating vents?  Thanks for the help in advance.



Let me have a crack at this . . . 

If izzen youse INsist on upon uzing ta Majick Heat-uh (the #1 mostest & bestest thingy ev-uh) youze needan to know ther sliddding barze is usen to clean out creaosoote by workin it back & forth.

OK, sorry . . . I just am no good at channeling Pook . . . instead it sounds like I'm either a) Jar Jar Binks or b) some Nigerian scammer about to ask you to send your bank account and credit card numbers to me on-line so I can send you a million dollars in return.

So . . . putting on my serious face . . . 

There are very few members here who have Magic Heat reclaimers . . . and very few who advocate the use of these . . . especially with the newer stoves. There was one member here who was a staunch proponent of these . . . but he is no longer here . . . mainly because he was also giving some very questionable advice on other topics as well . . . some of which was just downright dangerous.

The reason most folks do not advocate the use of the MH reclaimers is that in principle they sound good . . . and perhaps they might work for the older stoves. But truth be told, most folks that have had actual experience with these say that in "removing" the heat from the chimney pipe you cool down the escaping gases too much to the point where creosote forms and as such many folks that have had these end up removing them due to the mess of the creosote and the potential danger of cresoote build-up.


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## 'bert (Jan 27, 2010)

FFjake - thanks for the laugh as Pooks expense.  I do miss some of Pooks humor, hopefully one day he will return.


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## polaris (Jan 27, 2010)

They work and work well but only on old barrel stoves with rust holes and Vogelzang box stoves both of which burn in such an out of control fashion as to never risk any kind of build up. (creosote doesn't adhere to glowing metal).
Joe


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## VCBurner (Jan 27, 2010)

Thank you for all the responses: BeGreen, Jags, Franks and Bert.  

I am feel proud and lucky to be part of this knowledgeable and helpful community we call hearth.com.  I downloaded and printed the manual for the reclaimer, thanks to franks .  I now understand the correct way to instal and operate this thing as well as the dangers it presents.  I installed and will maintain the unit as to maximize its capabilities and minimize its ill effects.  Planning on installing a clean out T at the rear exhaust to replace the lower 90 as well as frequently checking the connectors and chimney for build up.  This thing was free, so I'll at least give it a shot for the rest of the season, as long as the benefits continue to outweigh the harms.  The previous had it connected to his oil furnace to take the chill off the basement.  He recently replaced the furnace with one that used 5" connectors so he couldn't use this 6" reclaimer.  He used it for six years with positive results.  I also understand that using this with a wood burning stove will warrant more frequent cleaning.  

Again, thanks for the helpful answers and burn on!


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## VCBurner (Jan 27, 2010)

VCBurner said:
			
		

> Thank you for all the responses: BeGreen, Jags, Franks and Bert.
> 
> I am feel proud and lucky to be part of this knowledgeable and helpful community we call hearth.com.  I downloaded and printed the manual for the reclaimer, thanks to franks .  I now understand the correct way to instal and operate this thing as well as the dangers it presents.  I installed and will maintain the unit as to maximize its capabilities and minimize its ill effects.  Planning on installing a clean out T at the rear exhaust to replace the lower 90 as well as frequently checking the connectors and chimney for build up.  This thing was free, so I'll at least give it a shot for the rest of the season, as long as the benefits continue to outweigh the harms.  The previous had it connected to his oil furnace to take the chill off the basement.  He recently replaced the furnace with one that used 5" connectors so he couldn't use this 6" reclaimer.  He used it for six years with positive results.  I also understand that using this with a wood burning stove will warrant more frequent cleaning.
> 
> Again, thanks for the helpful answers and burn on!



 I don't want to forget FirefighterJake too!!


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## VCBurner (Jan 31, 2010)

So tonight, only four days after the magic heat install I've got this to report:

The general feeling so far is good. I'd give it a 70% approval rate.

In the mornings when the house is cold, the MH kicks on right around 100-150 according to the mag mounted 4" below the unit. It only takes about three minutes to throw some good heat from the time the fire's started. It brings up the temp in the house much quicker. Supposedly it harvests up to 30,000 extra Btu's. It circulates the warmth well. 

On the flip side: the thing is pretty ugly! And I don't like the fact that I'm using electricity to blow the heat (it is not too loud but does add some noise to the equation.) I would be unlikely to install it in a living room. Once you install it has to stay on at least the automatic mode. I wish I had the option to turn it off whenever I wanted to. If left unplugged, the electrical components could get damaged among other things. I feel it should turn on at 300-400 flue temp instead of 100-150. I think it may decrease burn length (due to increased air circulation), but i'm not sure, too many other variables to tell. The increased air circulation also makes the cooler air to move faster, thus increasing the cool draft down low (where cool air travels in the direction of the stove.) I do know that the temp above the MH is about 75 °F lower than below the unit. So the cooling effect is not as bad as I thought. However, I find myself burning the stove slightly hotter to avoid build up in the connectors and chimney. I plan on checking in three days for build up (one week after the installation.)

So far, so good.  I'll continue to update as things progress,

Take care everyone and burn on!


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## North of 60 (Jan 31, 2010)

VCBurner said:
			
		

> So tonight, only four days after the magic heat install I've got this to report:
> 
> The general feeling so far is good. I'd give it a 70% approval rate.
> 
> ...



After reading all the wise suggestions that have been given to you and even though you are running a pre EPA stove (I think) It seems you are not following them to well. Therefore I figure that your eyes have been P00Ked out. :gulp:


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## VCBurner (Jan 31, 2010)

north of 60 said:
			
		

> VCBurner said:
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All due respect  North of 60,  I'm running a machine that is disliked in this forum.  But, it doesn't mean that in some cases, it's not useful.  My 20 year old Surdiac burns more efficiently than a lot of stoves on the market today.  I've learned not to always follow advice but to learn from it and draw my own conclusions.  I'm not familiar with Pook or his practices. I hear he was comical, though.   However, I assure you, any heating equipment I use is done so with great care.  My family's safety is of utmost importance.


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## North of 60 (Jan 31, 2010)

Burn on.


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## tcassavaugh (Jan 31, 2010)

i used one on my vc/cdw cat stove for years....i'm not sure it helped me all that much. a box fan behind the stove was better i think. it did get dirty thats for sure. it got the "glow" a couple of times but i had a small one and it was only a 3 holer with no cleaning rod. im sure if you check it regularly you'll be fine. my brother has one and his rod sticks because of the build up...but he has an old mother earth stove, necked down from 8 to 6....what a burner.

good luck with it....

cass


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## Shari (Jan 31, 2010)

north of 60 said:
			
		

> After reading all the wise suggestions that have been given to you and even though you are running a pre EPA stove (I think) It seems you are not following them to well. Therefore I figure that your eyes have been P00Ked out. :gulp:



The above is worth repeating!



			
				VCBurner said:
			
		

> If left unplugged, the electrical components could get damaged among other things.




...because the chimney is blocked allowing creosote accumulation at an accelerated rate with only one burn.




			
				VCBurner said:
			
		

> My family's safety is of utmost importance."



Have you considered what would happen in a power loss situation?  Given you have chosen to continue the use of this item, it is assumed you have assembled your family, explained the risks to them (and they agree to these risks)?  Have you laid out a 24/7 surveillance schedule and instructed family members, in your absence, how to handle an iron box full of flames if/when your power goes out and the magic heat is blocking the chimney?

Shari


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## Shari (Jan 31, 2010)

Pat10 said:
			
		

> http://czarcar-magicheatassafetydevise.blogspot.com/



That is pook's blog.  Pook is no longer a member here.

Shari


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## 73blazer (Jan 31, 2010)

There's one installed in a friend of mines cabin we visit a few times a year. It's installed on a circa 1940's Montgomery Ward freestanding fireplace. 
While I'd never put one on a newer high efficiency stove, I think in this application it works very well. It really brings the temp of the room up far quicker than without it in that application. (We measured)
I will note, however, that pipe is swept several times a year (since it's fairly easy to get to) and the fireplace just isn't used all that much, a few 4-day weekends a year while people are there.


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## VCBurner (Jan 31, 2010)

Shari said:
			
		

> north of 60 said:
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"I appreciate your concearn.  Any stove can cause a fire.  My stove can only burn up to four hours and the primary air intake is shut when we leave the house, flue temps never get over 400 with the air shut.  In case of a power outage, they recommend pulling out the electrical parts.  I am always minutes away from my family at all times, not long enough for the box to catch on fire even if unplugged.  I left the MH unplugged for a burn cicle just to see if anything would happen.  It was perfectly fine with flue temps up to 500 ï¿½F.  It only cools off flue temps by 75 ï¿½F when turned on and does not seem to reduce draft, but I'm curious to measure the draft to see how much it affects it.  Thank you for bringing up some valid points.  I have two fire extinguishers in the house and a chimney fire damper stick you can throw in the stove if one occurs.  I have also devised a fire drill in case something happens, everybody knows it down to my 3 year old. ;-) "


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## begreen (Jan 31, 2010)

My concern would be the flue gas temps after they leave the unit. How are the flue temps being measured? What are the flue gas temps after they leave the MH? If they are only 400 going into the unit and less than 250 heading out, one would expect to find creosote condensing somewhere up the flue pipe.


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## mikepinto65 (Feb 1, 2010)

Dear VCBurner,

Why do you " " when quoting someone?? 

Thanks,

Mike


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## brokeburner (Feb 1, 2010)

There killin you vc if there aint no creosote in the smoke it aint gonna cause no more. It will just slow down the draft this thing does not actually make creosote all by itself like people are thinkin it does. Thats almost comical. Hey this magic heat makes so much creosote it was drippin when i took it out of the box hahahah. If your comfortable burn bro just really keep an eye on it for a couple months and burn as clean as possible.


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## VCBurner (Feb 1, 2010)

73blazer said:
			
		

> There's one installed in a friend of mines cabin we visit a few times a year. It's installed on a circa 1940's Montgomery Ward freestanding fireplace.
> While I'd never put one on a newer high efficiency stove, I think in this application it works very well. It really brings the temp of the room up far quicker than without it in that application. (We measured)
> I will note, however, that pipe is swept several times a year (since it's fairly easy to get to) and the fireplace just isn't used all that much, a few 4-day weekends a year while people are there.



Thanks, Blazer.  Cool pic.


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## VCBurner (Feb 1, 2010)

mikepinto65 said:
			
		

> Dear VCBurner,
> 
> Why do you " " when quoting someone??
> 
> ...



I haven't got a hold of all these techniques.  Also, how do you quote multiple people on the same reply?  So I could respond to multiple people without having to repeat posts. Thanks, Mike.


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## VCBurner (Feb 1, 2010)

BeGreen said:
			
		

> My concern would be the flue gas temps after they leave the unit. How are the flue temps being measured? What are the flue gas temps after they leave the MH? If they are only 400 going into the unit and less than 250 heading out, one would expect to find creosote condensing somewhere up the flue pipe.



I've got a Rutland magnetic thermometer above and one below the MH.  The upper temp is only 75 °F  less than the lower temp.


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## VCBurner (Feb 1, 2010)

brokeburner said:
			
		

> There killin you vc if there aint no creosote in the smoke it aint gonna cause no more. It will just slow down the draft this thing does not actually make creosote all by itself like people are thinkin it does. Thats almost comical. Hey this magic heat makes so much creosote it was drippin when i took it out of the box hahahah. If your comfortable burn bro just really keep an eye on it for a couple months and burn as clean as possible.



I know, man!  I didn't intend on this post becoming a MH bashing post.  I just want to share my experiences.  After all, THAT IS WHY WE ARE ALL HERE!!   :cheese: But I've got some thick skin, if my wife's badgering hasn't killed me yet, a couple negative comments aren't going to.   :lol:  Anyway, if these people are so against these things why don't you go lobby against them in Washington or something.  Or call your state representative, HA, HA HA! Live and let live!  These things are being sold currently and have been for quite sometime.  Until they become illegal people will continue to use them, weather the majority of hearth.com members like it or not.
A couple questions I've got for all the haters: have any of you had a chimney fire as a result of a heat reclaimer?  Or do you personally know someone who has?  This type of evidence would certainly be more valid than rambling on about something you may not have any experience with.  Please tell me if you've ever had one of these in your home, so I can validate your comments more seriously. This being said, I still appreciate the concearns and questions presented to me.  They make me think of more ways to make it a safe wood heating endeavor.  Thanks for all the posts and burn on!


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## VCBurner (Feb 1, 2010)

BeGreen said:
			
		

> My concern would be the flue gas temps after they leave the unit. How are the flue temps being measured? What are the flue gas temps after they leave the MH? If they are only 400 going into the unit and less than 250 heading out, one would expect to find creosote condensing somewhere up the flue pipe.



Love the T6 BeGreen, If I had one I definetely wouldn't use the MH!! :lol:


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## Seasoned Oak (Feb 1, 2010)

Iv got one of these on a coal stoker and it works like a charm as the stoker is fan forced draft,so there is no downside to it however

I would NEVER use this on my Hi Tech harman wood stove as per the company it will kill the draft thereby keeping the afterburner from doing its job and thus forming creosote and creating a dangerous situation. As other posters have said ,if your using an old stove with runaway draft ,it may be of benefit but also always have it plugged in cuz if the fan don't come on to keep the unit cool it will damage the components. Modern wood stoves are NOT designed with these devices in mind as they reduce flue temps and draft requirements. My harman likes a strong draft , the stronger the better.


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## VCBurner (Feb 2, 2010)

Pat10 said:
			
		

> the proof's in the pudding & i'm waiting to see how your chimney cleaning comes out.  typically the chimney gets creosote deposited from the top [coldest area] down. wonder how the mh might affect that



I'm curious to see the results too.  Tomorrow makes a week with the MH.  My plan is to take the connectors appart and check for build up.    I'll also check the chimney.  

There are definetely pros and cons to having a reclaimer.  The pros are pretty obvious: more heat 
(up to 30,000 btu),  and faster heating.  The cons: unsightly appearance,  noise, more frequent cleaning,  increased electricity use.  
I really miss my quiet basement retreat!  Also, I've yet to see the electric bill.  I almost feel like I'm cheating, I can no longer say that I heat only with wood because of the electric being used to blow the heat.  That is also weighing in on my pros and cons list.


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## VCBurner (Feb 2, 2010)

trump said:
			
		

> Iv got one of these on a coal stoker and it works like a charm as the stoker is fan forced draft,so there is no downside to it however
> 
> I would NEVER use this on my Hi Tech harman wood stove as per the company it will kill the draft thereby keeping the afterburner from doing its job and thus forming creosote and creating a dangerous situation. As other posters have said ,if your using an old stove with runaway draft ,it may be of benefit but also always have it plugged in cuz if the fan don't come on to keep the unit cool it will damage the components. Modern wood stoves are NOT designed with these devices in mind as they reduce flue temps and draft requirements. My harman likes a strong draft , the stronger the better.



Thanks Trump,  if I had a stove newer stove with a blower I wouldn't use the MH either.  I plan on getting a newer stove next month and will cease to use the MH.  The newer stove will not have a blower but does have the option.  Take care.


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## VCBurner (Feb 2, 2010)

Pat10 said:
			
		

> VCBurner said:
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Pat, I read the link you sent, there was some good info in there.  Could you explain what part you think I should consider?  Thanks for the info.


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## VCBurner (Feb 6, 2010)

Ok, for those of you who were interested to know the results,  it was dirty.  But, that was expected.  With this MH connected I'd have to clean the connectors once a month.  I've been burning a lot of pine in it too!  So the results were not unexpected.  The next time I clean it, I'll take some pics so everyone can see exactly how much soot gets deposited in the connectors above the MH.  Not as much fell down into the lower connectors as I thought.  Even with daily scraping of the blower pipes.  With monthly cleanings the connector pipes should be fine and the chimney was as clean as a whistle!  It was black but had no build up all the way up!  My chimney has really good draft, which helps.  I've also been burning around 300-400 flue temp as much as possible during the day.  I'd say 7-8 hours with those temps.  So, to sum it all up, dirty, but not incendiary results!  Just as I thought.  Frequent cleanings, with a lot more heat.  Faster heating and increased air circulation,  Which is perfect for heating a house from a basement stove 

Good luck to those in the Mid-Atlantic snow storm, burn on!!


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## VCBurner (Feb 6, 2010)

> next time u clean the chimney, try to burn the scrapings so u get some idea of what chimney fire hazard might be in the scrapings.



Thanks Pat, I'll try that!  I still have the debris.


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## North of 60 (Feb 6, 2010)

VCBurner said:
			
		

> Ok, for those of you who were interested to know the results,  it was dirty.  But, that was expected.  With this MH connected I'd have to clean the connectors once a month.  I've been burning a lot of pine in it too!  So the results were not unexpected.



What does pine have to do with it.?


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## VCBurner (Feb 6, 2010)

I was under the impression that pine releases more particles than other hard woods.  At least that's what people around here preach.  My father in law always told me that it was all people out west burn.  So, I've been burning pine with great results.  Am I wrong in thinking the pine could result in more build up?
Thanks North


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## PapaDave (Feb 7, 2010)

VCBurner said:
			
		

> I was under the impression that pine releases more particles than other hard woods.  At least that's what people around here preach.  My father in law always told me that it was all people out west burn.  So, I've been burning pine with great results.  *Am I wrong in thinking the pine could result in more build up?*
> Thanks North



Like any wood, if it's dry, shouldn't matter much.
I burn pine too, and it's dry.


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## PapaDave (Feb 7, 2010)

VCBurner said:
			
		

> I was under the impression that pine releases more particles than other hard woods.  At least that's what people around here preach.  My father in law always told me that it was all people out west burn.  So, I've been burning pine with great results.  *Am I wrong in thinking the pine could result in more build up?*
> Thanks North



Like any wood, if it's dry, shouldn't matter much.
I burn pine too, and it's dry.
Previous owners here burned mostly oak with some maple, yet since they didn't dry it well, the flue was clogged to about half it's normal size.

Edit: guess I didn't stop the first post fast enough.


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## VCBurner (Feb 7, 2010)

> PapaDave Posted: 06 February 2010 07:05 PM
> Like any wood, if it’s dry, shouldn’t matter much.
> I burn pine too, and it’s dry.
> Previous owners here burned mostly oak with some maple, yet since they didn’t dry it well, the flue was clogged to about half it’s normal size.



You wouldn't believe if I told you how anti-pine people around here are!  I tried to tell the owner of our local market to burn some dry pine in his stove (the only convinience store in town, also serves as the post office).  Another customer disagreed and went as far as saying "people out west have different stoves than us."  I felt compelled to tell him to go on-line and check out this site, but the old timer probably didn't have a computer!  Well, my point is, people are scared stiff to throw in a pine log with their hard wood.  I'll always burn the stuff now, people give the stuff away like it was the plague.


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## madrone (Feb 7, 2010)

Someone here proposed a theory as to why people believe pine causes chimney fires that makes the most sense to me. If you've been burning underseasoned hardwoods and damping down to get longer burns in an older-style stove, (therefore building up a nice layer of creosote,) and then you toss in some hot burning pine, you'll have an instant chimney fire. Pine gets the blame.
Alternatively, it has been pointed out that wet pine weighs less than dry hardwood, so it might be harder to tell when it's ready if you're used to hardwoods. In that case, the pine might be causing creosote, but no more than any wet wood would.
Enjoy the free pine!


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## VCBurner (Jan 24, 2011)

*Just thought I'd throw this thread back out there and rattle the bee's nests!!*

I have long since removed the MH to learn how to burn my stove without any possible added factors.  The stove acted the same with or without the MH on it.  The little build up that the connectors had was all dry fly ash type never wet, flaky or glaze like compound.   I now realize that burning it hot was the best thing I did.  The MH did put out some major heat!  and I would not hesitate installing it again on another stove.  The things I hate about it are the looks and the noise.  I could see how they would be a problem for someone who burns smoldering fires and wet/green wood, especially on low burns.  These create a perfect condition for a chimney/house fire to occur.  

Lets see if anyone will pounce on this one!


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## begreen (Jan 24, 2011)

Like the stock market, past performance is no prediction of future gains. I think the main reason the MH wasn't a major PITA is because of the cat cleaning the smoke before it went through the MH.


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## yooperdave (Jan 24, 2011)

have magic heats changed in their configuration???  how is it that they now "block the chimney"? (shari from wis.)  i know they would get too hot and the electric parts would be in danger of damage if and when the power failed, but where and when did they start blocking the chimney????

     i used to have one in a garage that worked great and really helped out with heat distribution...along with the box fan trick.  but i don't think i would like one in a finished basement....unless the room was pretty isolated so the sound wouldn't transfer.   but, they sure do work!  wasn't there something like this for clothes dryers also??


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## VCBurner (Jan 24, 2011)

BeGreen said:
			
		

> Like the stock market, past performance is no prediction of future gains. I think the main reason the MH wasn't a major PITA is because of the cat cleaning the smoke before it went through the MH.



Point well made BeGreen!

This was taken from an article I read:
Combustors can destroy up to 90% of the creosote associated with wood combustion and remove 90% or more of the harmful pollutants found in wood smoke.

If that is true, I assume it is safer to put reclaimers on an EPA catalytic or non Catalytic stove.  EPA stoves burn cleaner. 




> *yooperdave -24 January 2011 03:19 PM *
> have magic heats changed in their configuration???  how is it that they now â€œblock the chimneyâ€? (shari from wis.)  i know they would get too hot and the electric parts would be in danger of damage if and when the power failed, but where and when did they start blocking the chimney????
> i used to have one in a garage that worked great and really helped out with heat distributionâ€¦along with the box fan trick.  but i donâ€™t think i would like one in a finished basementâ€¦.unless the room was pretty isolated so the sound wouldnâ€™t transfer.  but, they sure do work!  wasnâ€™t there something like this for clothes dryers also??



They don't block the chimney, but provide a bigger place for the smoke to circulate while on their way up the flue, thus reducing the draft.  To further aid draft reduction they cool the gasses off in the process.  This is a minor reduction in draft. IMO, if you have a good chimney that allows good draft, it is not a problem.  Certain stoves require more draft and may be more sensitive to draft reduction.

I think I've seen the clothes drier thing you're talking about.  My friend down the street has one of these filter boxes that allow you to vent it inside the house.  This would be a great addition to people with stove installs that have problems with negative air.  It also puts out heat and humidifies the house.


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## yooperdave (Jan 24, 2011)

vc, i don't think the dryer thing to reclaim heat would help people with negative air issues since  all it is doing is allowing the dryer to be vented inside of the house as opposed to discharging it to the exterior.  if it draws air from the outside, then that would be different.


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## VCBurner (Jan 24, 2011)

yooperdave said:
			
		

> vc, i don't think the dryer thing to reclaim heat would help people with negative air issues since  all it is doing is allowing the dryer to be vented inside of the house as opposed to discharging it to the exterior.  if it draws air from the outside, then that would be different.


  The one I was talking about doesn't draw air from anywhere, it simply discharges the exhaust inside the house and filters the discharge.  So it's not a reclaimer more like a filter.  If a stove is competing with a drier that is sucking air out of the house then it would help.  Probably not a good thing during the summer months.


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## Mt Ski Bum (Mar 2, 2011)

VCBurner said:
			
		

> yooperdave said:
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I believe what he ment is that the dryer draws air from inside, so all the indoor discharge for the dryer does is discharge the air that was taken from the room back into the room; versus if the dryer drew in air from outside & discharged it inside, it would result in a positive pressure to off-set the negative pressure caused by the stove drawing combustion air from the room.


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## BrotherBart (Mar 2, 2011)

From Magic Heat to clothes dryers. 

This one is going to bed.


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