# All Nighter Mid Moe installation help



## tyler merrow (Oct 24, 2013)

Hello im new to this forum and also new to burning wood, I recently purchased a 70's colonial and I acquired a nice barley used mid moe. I would like to install this stove in my basement in a unused thimble I have down there. From the basement to the top of the chimney is about 25-30 feet roughly (chimney goes past the higher peak of the house 2 story). There also is no cap on the chimney and it is masonry construction square tiles I believe 11x11? I did have the chimney inspected when I bought the house and everything checked out to be ok. Also I believe I will need to use double wall stove pipe because the thimble does not have the 18" clearance to the wood rafters in the basement it has about 10" of clearance. So im looking for some general ideas on installation stovepipe, damper, chimney cap, blower ect..... thanks


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## begreen (Oct 25, 2013)

Is 11x11 the inside tile dimension of the chimney or OD? What size flue outlet it on the mid-moe, 6 or 8"?


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## tyler merrow (Oct 25, 2013)

begreen said:


> Is 11x11 the inside tile dimension of the chimney or OD? What size flue outlet it on the mid-moe, 6 or 8"?


Actually I was pretty off after I just measured thru the thimble it was ID 6X10 so I imagine OD would be 8X12, also the outlet on Moe is 6"


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## coaly (Oct 25, 2013)

Yikes, you need a liner. Preferably insulated. You could have yourself a creosote factory in the upper end of that chimney.
Square area of your stove outlet is 28.26 square inches and should be that size all the way to the top. (you have 60 square inches across - you're trying to heat twice the flue area it should have = lots of wasted heat and wood) This flue area all the way up needs to stay above the condensing point of 250* f. So the larger the flue, the more heat you have to let up to avoid problems AND create the draft required to make the stove work. This pertains to any stove. The chimney is what makes the stove work. It's the engine that runs the stove. If the chimney is an exterior one built up the side of the house, cooling is even worse so that little stove is going to work hard keeping the flue hot.
  You're correct in requiring double wall pipe for reduced clearance to a combustable if the single wall pipe has less than 18" clearance. How far is the horizontal run, and how much rise in the run?
As is, you probably don't need a damper since you're going to need so much heat left up the flue. The more efficient the chimney (draft with less heat) the more you can slow the exhaust down with a damper, and the more heat you'll keep in the stove / house.
Cap, yes; Rain water /freezing temperatures at the top if the stove isn't going is hard on any masonry....... Blower optional - but an easy install and worth it.
And wecome to Hearth !


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## tyler merrow (Oct 25, 2013)

Thanks for the feedback coaly, the riser will be about 4' and the horizontal wont be to long depending on the answer to my next question, suppose I try burning this year without a liner (mostly because of lack or time and extra cash) how far should my pipe extend into the flue? Basically the set up I have I will need to 90 up then riser piece and then 90 out to the thimble.


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## coaly (Oct 25, 2013)

Never insert the connector pipe beyond the inner end of the thimble, or into the flue to block the inside flue diameter. Use 3 screws (usually self tapping 1/2 inch) at each pipe joint.
  Check for creosote formation very frequently until you know how much you're forming. It can form rapidly at lower temperatures you may have near the top.


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