# Who makes the best wood burning insert?



## Skitheeast

Hi everyone,
We are looking to purchase a wood burning insert for our masonry fireplace. The house is well insulated, (2x6 const. with R-21 in the walls), and is approx. 1800 sq. ft. I have been checking this site as wwell as manufacturers websites. We like the cast iron inserts -The stoves we are looking at are; Alderlea T5, Hampton HI-300, Jotul Rockland, Quadrafire Voyageur, Enviro Boston or Cabello 1700. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.
Thanks -


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## Lanningjw

Welocme to the Hearth.com forum,
Are you planning on heating the house full time with the insert?


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## velvetfoot

Being able to load North-South as well as East-West is a handy feature.  I think some of those choices do that.  If there's a choice, I'd also go with a larger one.


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## zzr7ky

Hi - My home is constructed imilarly.  I went with a freestanding stove in the Fire Place opening at the advise of folks here.  It has worked out well.  More heat in the home, and quicker heat.

I had several inserts in various homes before.  They provided 40-60% of my heating needs.  The stove now provides about 90% of our heating.

Good luck,
Mike


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## EJL923

I currently have the Rockland.  My house is 2400 sq ft, and im heating most of it with the Rockland rated for 1800 sq ft.  I burn about 30 gallons of oil in supplemental heat each year.  Im looking to sell though and upgrade so i can heat the upstairs a little more.  I think it would be perfect for 1800 sq ft.  Any questions on this particular stove dont hesitate to ask.


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## Skitheeast

Thanks everyone for the quick responses. Yes, we are looking to heat the house most of the time with the insert. I was told that the most imprtant thing regarding burn times as well as area heating capability is the size of the firebox? We have talked about freestanding wood stoves, but my wife does not like the look despite the superior performance.


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## Huntindog1

My vote would be for free standing stove in the fire place opening or out in front of the opening on a hearth ledge.

Another biggy most people dont think of is like Velvetfoot said , get one that you can load east/west or north/south.

Something like this: (dont think this one loads north/south)


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## kingquad

Those are all good inserts.  The voyager is the smallest and IMO too small to be a primary heater in your situation.  The enviro is the biggest listed and would be my choice due to burn times.  I'm a former enviro owner and was happy with mine.


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## mellow

Surprised to not see the BK princess insert on your list if you have been browsing on here.


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## zzr7ky

One might aquaint the wife with the concept of Blower Noise...    I did buy a nicer looking stove because it does impact the look o fthe room a bit more sitting out on the hearth.


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## FyreBug

If your pocketbook and the fireplace size can accommodate it the Heartstone Clydesdale is a gorgeous unit.


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## begreen

There really is no best insert. There is only the one that best satisfies the needs of your particular installation requirements and aesthetics. You are looking at good models. Narrow this list down to what is most important and fits your needs.


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## Seasoned Oak

I like the harman because its a great looking insert AND you can run it like an open fireplace was supposed to run and look,with the door WIDE OPEN and the optional fireplace screen in place for an open fire with lots of radient heat. I dont know  of ANY other wood stove that has this option. Their free standing model(which i own) can do this as well as roast food INSIDE the stove.


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## velvetfoot

Here's a thread on Clydesdale vs. HI300.  I found it because nowhere could I find the dimensions of the Clydesdale firebox (I recall going to my local stove guy and being surprised that a 16" split couldn't fit north/south in what looked like a big insert.  Turns out, according to the thread, the firebox is 2.4 ft3 and 12" deep.  Just saying that N/S loading is not an option for many inserts, even though their capacity may not be small.  With N/S, more of that capacity is useful,  since you don't have to stack it so they don't roll down and hit the glass, etc.  When trying to get more wood loaded E/W in the, for example, 24"width of the Clydesdale, you'd probably want, what, 23" splits, and that is if the firebox is not tapered in back.  Non-standard sized splits may or may not be a problem.

Just some more crap to think about.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...eplace-clydesdale-or-hi300.53912/#post-677766


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## Huntindog1

Inserts are most likely tend to be wider than deep due to being able to fit inside a fireplace. More options with free standing stoves.


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## dafattkidd

Hey skitheeast, welcome to the forum.  Where are you located?  Sounds like you should be looking for at least a 2 cf firebox (maybe larger depending on location).  Having the ability to load NS is not necessary, but is very nice, and often overlooked until you're actually burning.  You have a lot of high quality options that will work for you.  Measure your fireplace, and find an insert that works for you aesthetically and is in your price range. Be sure to consider the cost of a full liner from the unit to the chimney cap.


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## Lanningjw

Huntindog1 said:


> My vote would be for free standing stove in the fire place opening or out in front of the opening on a hearth ledge.
> 
> Another biggy most people dont think of is like Velvetfoot said , get one that you can load east/west or north/south.
> 
> Something like this: (dont think this one loads north/south)


 
Agree with your thoughts on this issue. The BK pricess stove will always out perform my princess insert. But it takes up less room and has a blower. It makes plenty of heat  but only gives me in my case 8 to 12 hour regular burns. I am not gonna spent 5 minutes puzzle loading splits in the 2.8 fire box. I like to reload, just not at night when I am sleeping...


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## Skitheeast

dafattkidd said:


> Hey skitheeast, welcome to the forum. Where are you located? Sounds like you should be looking for at least a 2 cf firebox (maybe larger depending on location). Having the ability to load NS is not necessary, but is very nice, and often overlooked until you're actually burning. You have a lot of high quality options that will work for you. Measure your fireplace, and find an insert that works for you aesthetically and is in your price range. Be sure to consider the cost of a full liner from the unit to the chimney cap.


 Thanks for the welcome. We live in Western MA. Foothills to the Berkshires. Yes, we definitely are looking for something with at least a 2.0 cf firebox. We have checked liner prices, and I will be dropping that in myself with a friend. Looking forward to burning this season. My wife and I have to do a little shopping and browsing.....
Thanks for the response.


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## Skitheeast

velvetfoot said:


> Here's a thread on Clydesdale vs. HI300. I found it because nowhere could I find the dimensions of the Clydesdale firebox (I recall going to my local stove guy and being surprised that a 16" split couldn't fit north/south in what looked like a big insert. Turns out, according to the thread, the firebox is 2.4 ft3 and 12" deep. Just saying that N/S loading is not an option for many inserts, even though their capacity may not be small. With N/S, more of that capacity is useful, since you don't have to stack it so they don't roll down and hit the glass, etc. When trying to get more wood loaded E/W in the, for example, 24"width of the Clydesdale, you'd probably want, what, 23" splits, and that is if the firebox is not tapered in back. Non-standard sized splits may or may not be a problem.
> 
> Just some more crap to think about.
> 
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...eplace-clydesdale-or-hi300.53912/#post-677766


 Hi velvetfoot,
Are you folks happy with your Hampton HI-300? Does it throw good heat? This unit would fit our fireplace perfectly, and I like the look of it. I also like the fact that it is not flush faced and extends out into the room giving off some of that heat. It has gotten some pretty good reviews on this site as well.


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## velvetfoot

So far, so good, but I haven't had it that long.  Others on the forum seem to like it and it's Regency sister unit.
I didn't feel that a self-install was in my wheelhouse, so we went with a brand sold locally (which could be a factor in whatever choice you make.)
Here is a picture of mine.  The seller/installer fabbed the 'step' and covered in granite tile, and I redid the floor in the same.
I think the shop did a fine job and recommended him to a friend who I sold my old insert too, and that install also came out nice.


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## Skitheeast

That is a nice looking unit. We have the Hampton brochure and it shows design / lines in the viewing glass, (which my wife doesn't like). Your pic shows no lines, wide open viewing glass. Is that an option? How many sq. ft is your house? Do you think you'll be able to heat the house with it?


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## velvetfoot

That's the new style:  no lines.  Funny, I kind of fancy the lines.
Our place is 1000ft2 on first floor and 1000ft2 on second floor.  Second floor was a problem with the smaller insert.  I put in some doorway fans and a ceiling fan at the stop of the stairway, so hopfully it'll be better.


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## Skitheeast

Well we finally went to three different stove stores this past weekend and 2 of the stores were pushing the Hampton HI300, which we already liked and decided to go with. The only thing I need to do is check the clay tile flue to make sure I can get a ss 5.5" liner down her. We built the house in 2009, the fireplace was made for burning wood, so do you guys know the size of the flue that would have been installed according to current codes? Will I be able to get that liner down without troubles?
Also, I read a couple threads regarding things you should do when installing an insert. Insulating the liner, (which one dealer told me wasn't necessary), Insulating the outside walls of the fireplace, and putting a block off plate in. 
Lastly, I am a little concerned about being able to heat the house with the unit, as we have 1800 sq ft of space with 9ft ceilings in the whole house. We plan on using the ceiling fans in all the rooms, but our house set up may be difficult to get the heat down the halls into the bedrooms. I was on Woodstocks website, and they show you how to calculate area with taller ceiling heights, and it is borderline for that unit with our ceilings and sq. ft.
Any thoughts?


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## clemsonfor

here is a loaded question. You will likely get almost as much responses as answers. 

I would go big steel cat stove. You can throttle them back and let them eat the smoke to provid you heat. I have little to no insulation in most of my home. I heat my 2500is sqft to a comfortable temp all of last year and most of the year before.  Granted i live a bit farther south than most of yall on here, but i think your insulation will make up for some climate differences we may have. 

Oh and my insert is in a large room on one side of my home, a few fans move the air around to heat the home.


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## clemsonfor

Skitheeast said:


> Well we finally went to three different stove stores this past weekend and 2 of the stores were pushing the Hampton HI300, which we already liked and decided to go with. The only thing I need to do is check the clay tile flue to make sure I can get a ss 5.5" liner down her. We built the house in 2009, the fireplace was made for burning wood, so do you guys know the size of the flue that would have been installed according to current codes? Will I be able to get that liner down without troubles?
> Also, I read a couple threads regarding things you should do when installing an insert. Insulating the liner, (which one dealer told me wasn't necessary), Insulating the outside walls of the fireplace, and putting a block off plate in.
> Lastly, I am a little concerned about being able to heat the house with the unit, as we have 1800 sq ft of space with 9ft ceilings in the whole house. We plan on using the ceiling fans in all the rooms, but our house set up may be difficult to get the heat down the halls into the bedrooms. I was on Woodstocks website, and they show you how to calculate area with taller ceiling heights, and it is borderline for that unit with our ceilings and sq. ft.
> Any thoughts?


 why would you put a 5.5" liner in when 95% of stoves today will run a 6" liner?  I guess cause you can fit the 6"??


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## Skitheeast

clemsonfor said:


> why would you put a 5.5" liner in when 95% of stoves today will run a 6" liner? I guess cause you can fit the 6"??


The store we went to showed us the manufactures recommended liner and it was 5.5". I thought the same thing regarding the 6".


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## TMonter

Skitheeast said:


> The store we went to showed us the manufactures recommended liner and it was 5.5". I thought the same thing regarding the 6".


 
If it'll fit go with the 6-inch liner.


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## velvetfoot

I believe mine is a 6" liner.


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## granpajohn

My method of converting SF area for high ceilings is to just divide your height by the normal 8'. e.g. for a 9' ceiling, 9/8 is 1.125 so your 1800 sf becomes 2025 sf. Basically 12.5%. If 10' ceiling, use 1.25.

And, insulate the chimney if it is exterior. (and it will fit)


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## Mr A

Skitheeast said:


> Well we finally went to three different stove stores this past weekend and 2 of the stores were pushing the Hampton HI300, which we already liked and decided to go with. The only thing I need to do is check the clay tile flue to make sure I can get a ss 5.5" liner down her. We built the house in 2009, the fireplace was made for burning wood, so do you guys know the size of the flue that would have been installed according to current codes? Will I be able to get that liner down without troubles?
> Also, I read a couple threads regarding things you should do when installing an insert. Insulating the liner, (which one dealer told me wasn't necessary), Insulating the outside walls of the fireplace, and putting a block off plate in.
> Lastly, I am a little concerned about being able to heat the house with the unit, as we have 1800 sq ft of space with 9ft ceilings in the whole house. We plan on using the ceiling fans in all the rooms, but our house set up may be difficult to get the heat down the halls into the bedrooms. I was on Woodstocks website, and they show you how to calculate area with taller ceiling heights, and it is borderline for that unit with our ceilings and sq. ft.
> Any thoughts?


The narrow side of my clay flue liner was only 5.5" I.D. I bought ovalized liner with a oval to round adapter for the insert connection, paid a litle extra fgor an ovalized chimney cap. I went to a few hearth stores around my area, they all said the same thing, they dont' install blockoff plates or liner insulation. I wanted a blockoff plate but it was too difficult to install with the work room available.  I stuffed roxul around the liner at the top of the chimney and called it good. The installers all said they used fiberglass insulation. Fiberglass can melt, I thought it not a good idea. They said the top of the flue is not hot enough to melt fiberglass insulation unless there was a chimney fire. i had success installing my own, it is pretty simple once the process is under stood. in the end, it is just a pipe running down the chimney to the insert


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## Skitheeast

Mr A said:


> The narrow side of my clay flue liner was only 5.5" I.D. I bought ovalized liner with a oval to round adapter for the insert connection, paid a litle extra fgor an ovalized chimney cap. I went to a few hearth stores around my area, they all said the same thing, they dont' install blockoff plates or liner insulation. I wanted a blockoff plate but it was too difficult to install with the work room available. I stuffed roxul around the liner at the top of the chimney and called it good. The installers all said they used fiberglass insulation. Fiberglass can melt, I thought it not a good idea. They said the top of the flue is not hot enough to melt fiberglass insulation unless there was a chimney fire. i had success installing my own, it is pretty simple once the process is under stood. in the end, it is just a pipe running down the chimney to the insert


Thanks for the info. Greatly appreciated. I will be doing the liner myself with the help of a friend. Loolks like we will go with a 6" and wrap it in insulation. 12 x 12 clay flue - should be able to get it down pretty easy. Going to have to notch where shelf is to get past without interference. Where can I get that Roxul stuff? Couldn't you just stuff the roxul around the shelf area above the insert rather than do a block off plate?
Thanks -


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## granpajohn

Skitheeast said:


> Couldn't you just stuff the roxul around the shelf area above the insert rather than do a block off plate?
> Thanks -


Yes you can. But it is often easier to accomplish that when you put a plate or other rigid structure up there. Get a close look at your situation, then decide. Search the forum for "block off plate" and you will notice that some members have built some real nice BOPs...where no one but Santa Claus can see it. (Mine is in the "functional-not-pretty" category)


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## Mr A

I would like to have a block off plate, just too difficult to get in. I understand the idea to be cutting off the heat to the mass of the masonry chimney structure. In my house, the chimney is still warming the living room, 18 hours after the fire went out. For  quick heat, I guess no block plate  is a disadvantage. It isn't very cold yet, I had all the windows open yesterday on a 60 degree day. The hall thermostat is still holding at 68 degrees after overnight temps in the 50's. Roxul was hard to find for me, Google Roxul, the company website has a list of suppliers. Also searching Roxul in the forums, there is a place mentioned in a thread that sells it by the batt for small quantities. I have 8 ,16"X48" insulation batts available  from my garage. I had to buy a whole package of it from the building supply company, 80 miles away. I only used a few batts.  You have plenty of room with a 12"x12" clay liner to wrap your liner in roxul. I would like to sell my 8 batts for $50. They are made for 2x4 stud bays, so they are 4 inches thick. More than enough  to wrap your  25 ft liner when split into 2" batts. Better, thicker insulation than an insulation blanket, usually only 1/2" thick for a few hundred dollars. I also have a box of Thermix I need to get rid of, $25 plus shipping.


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## mellow

Most of us get Roxul at Lowes.  They can special order it in.


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## Mr A

I wanted it today, when I got mine. I went to both Lowes and Home Depot service desks and they had no idea what I was talking about. The guys at Home Depot did their thing of asking up the chain  for about 30 minutes, finally a guy said,"yea, we can order it". Still have to buy a full pack of 10 batts, and wait, and pay for shipping.


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## Skitheeast

Hi everyone,
We are waiting for the liner to come in. A friend who does masonry work ordered it through Olympia. Should be here in a few days. He suggested putting vermiculite, (everguard), down there rather than wrapping the liner in an insulating blanket. Said it would be cheaper. Any thoughts? I'm a little confused regarding the insulation around the stove in the firebox. I have a masonry chimney built a few years ago, sounds like people who insulated their firebox around the stove had a different firebox, or problems with old chimney. Wouldn't the block off plate with insulation above it as well as an insulated liner in the flue be sufficient? I would think the heat would stay in the firebox area pretty well once the unit has been goiing for a bit with a BOP and insulation above it?


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## begreen

Skitheeast said:


> The store we went to showed us the manufactures recommended liner and it was 5.5". I thought the same thing regarding the 6".


 
Usually one only downsizes the liner if the chimney is tall or if the chimney flue is small. That doesn't seem to be the case here.


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## mcerin

Seasoned Oak said:


> I like the harman because its a great looking insert AND you can run it like an open fireplace was supposed to run and look,with the door WIDE OPEN and the optional fireplace screen in place for an open fire with lots of radient heat. I dont know of ANY other wood stove that has this option. Their free standing model(which i own) can do this as well as roast food INSIDE the stove.


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## relevance

Skitheeast said:


> Hi everyone,
> We are looking to purchase a wood burning insert for our masonry fireplace. The house is well insulated, (2x6 const. with R-21 in the walls), and is approx. 1800 sq. ft. I have been checking this site as wwell as manufacturers websites. We like the cast iron inserts -The stoves we are looking at are; Alderlea T5, Hampton HI-300, Jotul Rockland, Quadrafire Voyageur, Enviro Boston or Cabello 1700. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.
> Thanks -


 
Hi,

I just purchased a Lennox "Performer" insert and couldn't be happier with my purchase. It's heating my 1300 sq ft, 60 year old ranch with a suspect amount of insulation. I learned that the seams on a cast iron, if over fired too often become brittle, break down, leak and lose their efficiency. Welded steel doesn't have that problem. While cast iron has that really nice traditional look, the logic behind long lasting efficiency won me over.

Matt


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