# Broken switch on table saw



## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Oct 8, 2017)

I have a low end Delta table saw with a broken switch. I'm no electrician, but I'm sure a can tackle fixing this... with some advice from my hearth buddies. It has a 15 amp motor. What kind of switch do I get?

I'm not going for a factory replacement, it's poor design is what caused it to fail in the first place, and there are no kids around here that warrant the safety switch that came on it.


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## xman23 (Oct 8, 2017)

I would get a standard house wiring 20 amp switch.  You can get in HD,


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Oct 8, 2017)

xman23 said:


> I would get a standard house wiring 20 amp switch.  You can get in HD,


Thanks xman. I wondered if that would work. Nice and easy, just how I like it.


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## heat seeker (Oct 8, 2017)

*No, don't get a standard house switch to run a motor!* The inrush current will kill it in short order. Get a heavy duty type switch that's rated for motors. It looks the same externally, but the guts are made to take the high startup current of a motor.


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Oct 9, 2017)

heat seeker said:


> *No, don't get a standard house switch to run a motor!* The inrush current will kill it in short order. Get a heavy duty type switch that's rated for motors. It looks the same externally, but the guts are made to take the high startup current of a motor.


Well that was a close one! Where does one find such a switch? Thanks heat seeker.


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## heat seeker (Oct 9, 2017)

Any good hardware store will have them. They cost a bit more than a standard switch, but will do the job for you. They even make them for 220 volt applications. I recently bought one of those, and it cost, IIRC, about $15. A 120 volt switch should be a lot less than that.


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## peakbagger (Oct 9, 2017)

There is lot to be said for buying an easy to operate "Estop" type switch compared to a standard wall switch.https://woodworker.com/onoff-switch-with-stop-enclosure-mssu-140-066.asp?search=power switch&searchmode=2.

When you really need it, you want to be able to kill the saw quick, no fumbling around. Hard to flip a switch when you have sawn off a finger or two 
I know folks who have. My unisaw has a push button switch and I know I even fumble a bit when I want to turn it off.


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Oct 9, 2017)

peakbagger said:


> There is lot to be said for buying an easy to operate "Estop" type switch compared to a standard wall switch.https://woodworker.com/onoff-switch-with-stop-enclosure-mssu-140-066.asp?search=power switch&searchmode=2.
> 
> When you really need it, you want to be able to kill the saw quick, no fumbling around. Hard to flip a switch when you have sawn off a finger or two
> I know folks who have. My unisaw has a push button switch and I know I even fumble a bit when I want to turn it off.


I hear ya. I'm terrified of the thing. I've had kickbacks on both the table saw and radial arm that were about an inch away from leaving me singing a few octaves higher permanently.

Thanks for the link. I'd hate to pay more for a switch than I paid for the saw ($20 at a yard sale). I'm only going to be using it infrequently, but switching it on and off with the switch on the power strip makes me even more nervous.


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## fbelec (Oct 11, 2017)

peakbagger nice switch. that will even make it easy to install than trying to adapt a regular toggle switch


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## semipro (Oct 20, 2017)

ED 3000 said:


> Thanks for the link. I'd hate to pay more for a switch than I paid for the saw ($20 at a yard sale). I'm only going to be using it infrequently, but switching it on and off with the switch on the power strip makes me even more nervous.


Maybe a less expensive but still safe option:  It may not mount as easily though. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Stock-2p...tton-Switch-/401287992880?hash=item5d6ea0d630


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Oct 21, 2017)

semipro said:


> Maybe a less expensive but still safe option:  It may not mount as easily though.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Stock-2p...tton-Switch-/401287992880?hash=item5d6ea0d630
> View attachment 201536


I really like this one. I'll have to give some thought about how to mount it. Thanks semipro!


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## blades (Oct 21, 2017)

Might want to try digging in the net for a manual on the saw - some  of these units have fusible links to prevent overloads which may or may not be part of the switch assembly.


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## peakbagger (Oct 21, 2017)

semipro said:


> Maybe a less expensive but still safe option:  It may not mount as easily though.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Stock-2p...tton-Switch-/401287992880?hash=item5d6ea0d630
> View attachment 201536



Looking at the listing, the rated amperage is quite low for your intended use. Most saws draw much higher starting amperage than the rating.


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Oct 21, 2017)

blades said:


> Might want to try digging in the net for a manual on the saw - some  of these units have fusible links to prevent overloads which may or may not be part of the switch assembly.


Thanks blades. What are fusible links, and what do I need to worry about?


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## johneh (Oct 21, 2017)

An electrical fusible link is a type of electrical fuse that is constructed simply with a short piece of wire typically four American wire gauge sizes smaller than the wire that is being protected. For example, an AWG 16 fusible link might be used to protect AWG 12 wiring. Electrical fusible links are common in high-current automotive applications. The wire in an electrical fusible link is encased in high-temperature fire-resistant insulation to reduce hazards when the wire melts.
The wire melts on overload


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Oct 21, 2017)

johneh said:


> An electrical fusible link is a type of electrical fuse that is constructed simply with a short piece of wire typically four American wire gauge sizes smaller than the wire that is being protected. For example, an AWG 16 fusible link might be used to protect AWG 12 wiring. Electrical fusible links are common in high-current automotive applications. The wire in an electrical fusible link is encased in high-temperature fire-resistant insulation to reduce hazards when the wire melts.
> The wire melts on overload


Nice explanation, even I understood exactly what they are! Now, what do I need to worry about if they are there?


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## johneh (Oct 21, 2017)

Works like a glass fuse wire melts fuse blown need to be replaced
Have never seen one or heard of one in a saw switch or wiring 
If it were part of a switch then the switch would need to be replaced 
Only ever seen them in Chrysler products (cars and trucks )
So don't get lead down the garden path


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Oct 21, 2017)

johneh said:


> Works like a glass fuse wire melts fuse blown need to be replaced
> Have never seen one or heard of one in a saw switch or wiring
> If it were part of a switch then the switch would need to be replaced
> Only ever seen them in Chrysler products (cars and trucks )
> So don't get lead down the garden path


Thanks John. I hear ya.


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## blades (Oct 23, 2017)

Ridgid used them in table saws, part of the motor assembly but external to the motor proper. Buried in the back of the electrical connection box on motor. Seen a few others floating around over the years as well. Just a heads up.  ( a cheap way to get UL compliance vs a autoreset or manual  thermal interrupt)
Only reason I brought it up was a customer of mine had a saw go down - replaced  switch still no go, they called me about a new motor  of course the price of same was about the price of the saw new. Unique mounting which ruled out generic replacement.,  typical of chi-com type stuff.  So upshot is if a different switch does not correct problem  trace the leads ( disconnected from the power source of course ) from the plug( or power terminal connection) to the field and armature windings as one run. Another sneaky problem caused by vibration mostly, is a lead broken inside its insulating sleeve.  Crimped on connectors are notorious for this as well.


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## OhioBurner© (Nov 9, 2017)

heat seeker said:


> *No, don't get a standard house switch to run a motor!*


Been using a standard cheap $1 household switch for many years on my table saw. After I burned up a much more expensive toggle switch (it was even motor rated) I just decided to try the inexpensive option just to see, and its been working fine ever since.


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## johneh (Nov 9, 2017)

OhioBurner© said:


> Been using a standard cheap $1 household switch for many years on my table saw. After I burned up a much more expensive toggle switch (it was even motor rated) I just decided to try the inexpensive option just to see, and its been working fine ever since.



Hard to find emergency stop on that saw !!
But why would you need that ??


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## OhioBurner© (Nov 9, 2017)

johneh said:


> Hard to find emergency stop on that saw !!
> But why would you need that ??


Not sure if I follow you there, my saw had no 'emergency stop' I just replaced one toggle switch with another. I wouldn't suggest to disable a safety feature if the saw was equipped with one.


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## johneh (Nov 9, 2017)

All three of my saws have a slap shut off switch . All Delta saws
5 horse Unisaw --1 horse contractor saw and portable saw on wheel stand
Not a flip switch in sight just BIG RED OFF BUTTONS
Safety First


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Nov 9, 2017)

johneh said:


> All three of my saws have a slap shut off switch . All Delta saws
> 5 horse Unisaw --1 horse contractor saw and portable saw on wheel stand
> Not a flip switch in sight just BIG RED OFF BUTTONS
> Safety First


Is this stock on these saws, or mods?


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## bholler (Nov 9, 2017)

Yeah I won't use a table saw without a switch I can shut off easily with my knee.  I was a professional cabinet maker for years and if you feel it binding you want to be able to kill the saw quick without letting go of the work peice.


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## semipro (Nov 9, 2017)

peakbagger said:


> Looking at the listing, the rated amperage is quite low for your intended use. Most saws draw much higher starting amperage than the rating.


These are typically dual pole though so you can wire in parallel to spread the current across both sets of contacts.


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## johneh (Nov 9, 2017)

bholler said:


> Yeah I won't use a table saw without a switch I can shut off easily with my knee. I was a professional cabinet maker for years and if you feel it binding you want to be able to kill the saw quick without letting go of the work peice.


What he said . If both hands on the work not in the blade 



ED 3000 said:


> Is this stock on these saws, or mods?


Saws come with this switch


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## johneh (Nov 9, 2017)

ED 3000 said:


> Is this stock on these saws, or mods?


Stock  See delta table saw web page
http://www.deltamachinery.com/products/table-saws
Evert saw has a BIG RED BUTTON


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Nov 10, 2017)

johneh said:


> Stock  See delta table saw web page
> http://www.deltamachinery.com/products/table-saws
> Evert saw has a BIG RED BUTTON


Thanks johneh. Clearly the newer models have much more attention to safety that my older model. 

Do any of yours have that feature where it stops instantly when it "feels" flesh? I suspect eventually they'll all have that. Won't be cheap, but they'll be less scary.


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## blades (Nov 10, 2017)

I do not know the particular mechanics of the saw stop units , I do know what the blades look like after an engagement of same- not pretty but better than  losing body parts.


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Nov 10, 2017)

blades said:


> I do not know the particular mechanics of the saw stop units , I do know what the blades look like after an engagement of same- not pretty but better than  losing body parts.


Sounds like you are an expert on all things blades, blades!

Mom lost a finger on the farm when she was in her 20s, Dad, one knuckle. There's a psychological loss that goes along with the physical one. Way better to lose the whole saw than even one inch.


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## johneh (Nov 10, 2017)

ED 3000 said:


> Do any of yours have that feature where it stops instantly when it "feels" flesh? I suspect eventually they'll all have that. Won't be cheap, but they'll be less scary.


Tried the unit when the first came out works very well but destroys the blade .
They also sense soft spots (rot) in reclaimed lumber as flash destroyed a 900 dollar
special order rip blade made to do reclaimed lumber . did not take long for the unit 
to hit the garbage


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Nov 11, 2017)

johneh said:


> Tried the unit when the first came out works very well but destroys the blade .
> They also sense soft spots (rot) in reclaimed lumber as flash destroyed a 900 dollar
> special order rip blade made to do reclaimed lumber . did not take long for the unit
> to hit the garbage


Interesting story. Sorry to hear about the lo$$. That must have been a special blade for $900. What does that blade do in reclaimed lumber vs. a good standard carbide tipped ripping blade?


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## johneh (Nov 11, 2017)

ED 3000 said:


> Interesting story. Sorry to hear about the lo$$. That must have been a special blade for $900. What does that blade do in reclaimed lumber vs. a good standard carbide tipped ripping blade?



The blade is of carbon steel with a 1/4 in kerf
It can handle stones ,sand and furious metal
with out getting dull on the first cut . only used
for reclaimed wood and logs .  The material I was cutting
made tables for a new Pub in Franktown Ontario
Pub now long gone don't know what happened to the tables
I also built the bar


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## OhioBurner© (Nov 12, 2017)

johneh said:


> All three of my saws have a slap shut off switch . All Delta saws
> 5 horse Unisaw --1 horse contractor saw and portable saw on wheel stand
> Not a flip switch in sight just BIG RED OFF BUTTONS
> Safety First


Sounds like nice saws, mine was a harbor freight saw that dad had from many years ago, he gave me it when the switch burned out said it's mine if I want to fix it. No fancy red buttons. Not sure how I could hit a safety switch with a knee on a bench top saw anyhow.


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## mooselake (Nov 12, 2017)

Grizzly has a knee whackable switch, plus they're likely available from a lot of other sources.  This one's rated for 3HP or 16A

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Paddle-Switch-120-230V/D4151


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## bholler (Nov 13, 2017)

OhioBurner© said:


> Sounds like nice saws, mine was a harbor freight saw that dad had from many years ago, he gave me it when the switch burned out said it's mine if I want to fix it. No fancy red buttons. Not sure how I could hit a safety switch with a knee on a bench top saw anyhow.


Mount it to the bench.  Like i said i have spent enough time behind a saw to know there are times you want to be able to kill it with no hands.  I also really liked the 2 saw stop saws i have worked on i only had one go off and that was from metal.  And we used lots of salvaged material.

Bosch now has a safety system that does not destroy the blade.  But they dont have any cabinet saws.


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