# Econoburn 150 Nozzle replacement



## b33p3r (Sep 23, 2014)

This year will be my 5th season and I've noticed significant erosion of the nozzle. I probably should have done something about it this summer but didn't. Next summer I will need to replace the nozzle and was wondering if anyone has ever replaced the nozzle on an econoburn and if so maybe some incites as to what I'm in for?
   In the meantime I'll probably get some steel plate to lay over the nozzle for this year just to cut down on the ash and clunkers in the secondary chamber. Anyone see an issue with adding steel plate?


----------



## b33p3r (Sep 24, 2014)

b33p3r said:


> This year will be my 5th season and I've noticed significant erosion of the nozzle. I probably should have done something about it this summer but didn't. Next summer I will need to replace the nozzle and was wondering if anyone has ever replaced the nozzle on an econoburn and if so maybe some incites as to what I'm in for?
> In the meantime I'll probably get some steel plate to lay over the nozzle for this year just to cut down on the ash and clunkers in the secondary chamber. Anyone see an issue with adding steel plate?


Emailed Dale and within minutes he replied. The nozzle on the econoburn 150 can be replaced in 1.5 hours by the owner. The reps can do the job in 20 minutes but they do it on a regular basis. anyway, got my question answered. $85.00 for a new nozzle and 1.5 (I'll give myself 2 hours) hours labor and good to go. The replacement nozzle comes with instructions. Dale also commented that a steel cover over the nozzle will warp due to heat. Cast would hold up better


----------



## muncybob (Sep 24, 2014)

1.5 hours, must be a major task. I would do it before this season starts and everything is cool...replacing mid season is no fun...don't ask how I know!


----------



## easternbob (Sep 24, 2014)

I did the firebrick overlay. Works great. Might think about doing that over your replacement. The wear will happen to the 'disposable' firebrick. Wish I had done that from the start with mine. There are a few post about this just search around


----------



## b33p3r (Sep 24, 2014)

In the process of getting new nozzle. I plan on installing right away. Already burning but temps so mild I'll just shut it down and get it done. Once replaced I would like to install something to protect the nozzle but something that  is much easier to replace such as firebrick. I'll look around for posts about fire brick. Thanks!


----------



## Fred61 (Sep 25, 2014)

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/changed-nozzle-in-eko-25-this-morning.120713/#post-1616601

Has one post on my brick overlay.

EDIT: I believe you will cause less damage if you can pick out the old nozzle in pieces as I did if possible


----------



## JTWALL (Sep 25, 2014)

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/eko-orlan-model-25-nozzle-plate.127309/#post-1712938

There is a video I made of the nozzle plate I made for my Eko.  

The nozzle plate has not warped in over a years use.  There were a couple of minor cracks, which I simply welded.  

Stainless steal hardens when exposed to heat.  

Carbon steel is a waste of time since it will flake and quickly degrade.

The ceramic nozzle is like-new with over a years use and I doubt I will have to replace it ever again.

I have a spare nozzle plate sitting next to the boiler just in case...but so far I have not had to use it.

Regards,

JT Wall


----------



## Tennman (Sep 25, 2014)

JT, Thanks for this timely reminder. I forgot that old, valuable thread. For those of you using firebrick, how do you cut it? I don't have anything like a tile cutter.


----------



## woodsmaster (Sep 25, 2014)

Tennman said:


> JT, Thanks for this timely reminder. I forgot that old, valuable thread. For those of you using firebrick, how do you cut it? I don't have anything like a tile cutter.


 I bet a masonry blade in your circular saw would work.


----------



## maple1 (Sep 25, 2014)

Last time I worked with it, buddy had a chop saw with a masonary blade. Made all kinds of dust but cut the bricks pretty good.


----------



## Fred61 (Sep 25, 2014)

I had the best luck with a diamond blade in a circular hand saw and/or a 4.5 inch diamond blade in my angle grinder. I ran in to a batch of bricks that were either a different mix or were fired differently and produced a few rejects. Just as the blade was about half was through the brick, the heat caused the cut to become gummy and it stripped much of the diamond right out of the blade. I could only assume that the gummy material was fire clay that wasn't kicked out by the dust and accumulated on the blade as it heated up.

BTW: do this outside and pay attention to the wind direction


----------



## Tennman (Sep 25, 2014)

Doesn't sound like cutting firebrick is much harder than plasma cutting steel. I have these types of saws around, just need to invest in a blade. I'm gonna look into it for this season. Thanks guys.


----------



## Mauler (Sep 25, 2014)

b33p3r said:


> This year will be my 5th season and I've noticed significant erosion of the nozzle. I probably should have done something about it this summer but didn't. Next summer I will need to replace the nozzle and was wondering if anyone has ever replaced the nozzle on an econoburn and if so maybe some incites as to what I'm in for?
> In the meantime I'll probably get some steel plate to lay over the nozzle for this year just to cut down on the ash and clunkers in the secondary chamber. Anyone see an issue with adding steel plate?




any pictures? I had no idea the nozzle was removable and am curious how it is removed


----------



## fahmahbob (Sep 26, 2014)

This thread got me curious about the nozzle in my Econoburn 150. I hadn't really given it a good look in a long time, so I was a bit surprised by what I saw. I sent pics to Dale, and he confirmed this was the amount of wear he'd expect for about 20 cords (3 seasons). He said he'd go another season with it, though I may change in before then and add a 'prophylactic' to it.


----------



## b33p3r (Sep 27, 2014)

Mine is not far off from the picture you show. I don't have a picture of mine at the moment. I may just wait til next season to replace mine judging by what Dale said about yours. I think I'll add some fire brick or steel plate for this year and replace next spring when I have more time to monkey with it.


----------



## goosegunner (Sep 27, 2014)

Have you guys ever noticed the ceramic nozzle during a burn, just glowing red. No wonder they wear, I also wonder if the high air volume from the non adjustable fan causes more wear.

gg


----------



## fahmahbob (Sep 28, 2014)

goosegunner said:


> Have you guys ever noticed the ceramic nozzle during a burn, just glowing red. No wonder they wear, I also wonder if the high air volume from the non adjustable fan causes more wear.
> 
> gg



I assume you mean the bottom glows red? I've never really looked, but I will. As far as air volume, there is an adjustable shutter on the fan. I've never tried adjusting it, though. I'm not even sure I'd know how to judge when it was set properly.


----------



## b33p3r (Sep 28, 2014)

There is also fan speed adjustments via the dip switches on the controller. Well the older controller anyway. When I first got mine Dale had me change the fan speed. It runs a bit slower than default setting.


----------



## goosegunner (Sep 28, 2014)

fahmahbob said:


> I assume you mean the bottom glows red? I've never really looked, but I will. As far as air volume, there is an adjustable shutter on the fan. I've never tried adjusting it, though. I'm not even sure I'd know how to judge when it was set properly.




No the firebox side of the nozzle will be red hot under the coals. It will look like a molten piece of steel.

gg


----------



## greg in MN (Sep 29, 2014)

Has anyone actually replaced the nozzle?


----------



## goosegunner (Sep 29, 2014)

greg in MN said:


> Has anyone actually replaced the nozzle?




I plan on doing mine soon. I have been patching it with refractory cement to keep the slot squared up and proper size. It makes a noticeable difference in the heat the boiler puts to storage.

gg


----------



## fahmahbob (Sep 30, 2014)

greg in MN said:


> Has anyone actually replaced the nozzle?



Mine is on order. I plan to do it some time in October.


----------



## Mauler (Sep 30, 2014)

is the nozzle mortared in place? has to be chipped out? its awkward to reach from the top chamber , or do you get to it from the lower chamber?


----------



## salecker (Oct 1, 2014)

fahmahbob said:


> This thread got me curious about the nozzle in my Econoburn 150. I hadn't really given it a good look in a long time, so I was a bit surprised by what I saw. I sent pics to Dale, and he confirmed this was the amount of wear he'd expect for about 20 cords (3 seasons). He said he'd go another season with it, though I may change in before then and add a 'prophylactic' to it.
> View attachment 139560


Mine looks about the same as fahmahbob's.  I think i will change mine before i start burning this season.I have a new nozzle but didn't end up with directions.Does anyone have the directions they could post or send me?
 Thanks Thomas


----------



## fahmahbob (Oct 3, 2014)

salecker said:


> Mine looks about the same as fahmahbob's. I think i will change mine before i start burning this season.I have a new nozzle but didn't end up with directions.Does anyone have the directions they could post or send me?
> Thanks Thomas



I just got my kit in.Instructions are pretty basic (just peeked before leaving for work this AM) - knock out old nozzle with hammer and chisel, put in new nozzle, and put plastic tubes into the secondary air holes (so refacotry doesn't ooze in) and cover tube ends with duct tape, pack around nozzle with new refactory, let set 24-48 hours. It doesn't say anything aobout how to get the plastic tubes out afterwards, I'm hoping that will be easier than it seems.


----------



## b33p3r (Oct 4, 2014)

You would definitely need a long chisel because there is no way both my shoulders are fitting in the top burn chamber. once the nozzle and refractory were in place I would pull the tape off tubes and light fire. The heat will remove the plastic tubes in short order. do you have phone number to call for nozzle? I also need the refractory for lower chamber. It just broke in 2 yesterday while cleaning out ashes. Good timing for refractories I guess.


----------



## fahmahbob (Oct 4, 2014)

b33p3r said:


> You would definitely need a long chisel because there is no way both my shoulders are fitting in the top burn chamber. once the nozzle and refractory were in place I would pull the tape off tubes and light fire. The heat will remove the plastic tubes in short order. do you have phone number to call for nozzle? I also need the refractory for lower chamber. It just broke in 2 yesterday while cleaning out ashes. Good timing for refractories I guess.



Yeah, I guess leaving the tubes in is what I'll have to do.
I called Dale - 716 792-2095 - and I had the nozzle in 2 days.


----------



## goosegunner (Oct 4, 2014)

When I got my boiler I could see the plastic tubes in the air holes. There were no instructions on removing them. They burned away in short order.

gg


----------



## salecker (Oct 9, 2014)

Hi All
 So i chiseled out my old nozzle.Tried a hammer and chisel,very awkward working through the top door.More so on mine because i have a smoke flap.After hitting my hand instead of the chisel a couple of times,and lack of progress i had a brainwave.
 I went to my shop and got my Snapon air chisel.Using it very carefully i was able to remove the nozzle in very short and painless process.
 COMPLETE DISCLAIMER.......if you aren't familiar to using an air chisel find someone that is or be very careful.
 Then it turned out that i was sent the wrong nozzle.Talked to Dale at Econoburn and he confirmed it was the wrong nozzle,and said the correct one would be on it's way that day.
 Awesome customer service at Econoburn,any problems or questions are dealt with in a timely manor.
 Thomas


----------



## James Vanderhoof (Dec 9, 2014)

few years ago noted wear around top of nozzle - 
I used 1/4" plate steel - cut out center slot - to fit flat on bottom of upper chamber ~8 inches wide -  then positioned same length steel plate along sides to angle in toward the center slot ~12 inches high (had to cut notches where air comes into upper chamber) - works great, I think it protects the nozzle. 
No ash build up  along the side edges.
Have not had trouble with steel warping from the heat.

Have new nozzle on the way  -


----------



## Tennman (Dec 9, 2014)

This season I cut four plates from a 5/8" thick fireplace hearth refractory plate from the local stove/fireplace shop. Two side plates the whole length of the nozzle and small plates the width of the nozzle opening for the ends. I think once the side plates get beveled I may try to flip them. We'll see.

Working great. Dusty but easy to cut and enough scrap material for 2 seasons. I posted pics in a another thread about guards. Much better than my steel guard of last year. Cheers.


----------

