# 455 Rancher Bar and chain



## Bacffin (Nov 17, 2012)

My Husqvarna 455 rancher currently has an 18" bar on it and I would like to get a 20" for the larger rounds. I have looked on Baily's, but not sure what bar and chain manufacture is the best bang for the buck and the large selection looks like I could easily make the wrong choice.

I will be using this for mostly bucking up logs, not felling and the work is mostly clean. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Bruce


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## TreePointer (Nov 17, 2012)

What I'd do:

Oregon Powermatch bar = not a special light bar, but will do the job.  Has a replaceable tip.
Stihl RS chain = full chisel, not a low kickback/safety chain. (I prefer Stihl chain because it's a little harder and I use it on all my saws).

Oregon LGX chain = a nice substitute for the Stihl chain.  Full chisel, not low kickback.

Here's a bar & chain combo for a 3/8 pitch, .050 gauge, Husqvarna 455 Rancher saw:  http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=PMC+20+CJ50&catID=


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## Plow Boy (Nov 17, 2012)

I have a husky 55 rancher with a 20" bar, and it does great.  If I wasnt going to put a husky bar on it I would use a oregon.


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## DexterDay (Nov 17, 2012)

I had a 455 w/ factory 20" (3/8") bar and it did well. I put an el-cheapo 16" Forestor Bar and Chain (Oregon LGX) and.it worked awesome. 

I probably will never replace a bar tip. I'll just get another. 

Its gone now, but I liked the 16" over the 20", when the cutting allowed for it. Smaller bar = More oil, Less resistance/chain speed, and less cutters to sharpen  

Lots of options. Can't go wrong with Oregon Powermatch.


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## amateur cutter (Nov 17, 2012)

20" .050 gauge is maxing out a 55cc saw imo. It'll do it, but don't get in a hurry. You'll be running right at the limit for power & oiling capability. Might consider .325 chain & bar, but you'll have to change drive sprockets as well. A C


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## Bacffin (Nov 18, 2012)

TreePointer said:


> What I'd do:
> 
> Oregon Powermatch bar = not a special light bar, but will do the job. Has a replaceable tip.
> Stihl RS chain = full chisel, not a low kickback/safety chain. (I prefer Stihl chain because it's a little harder and I use it on all my saws).
> ...


 
Thanks TreePointer! 
What does the special "light bar" gain you...Just weight?
Does the harder Stihl chain give you more life, ie: sharpening and less normal wearing?
I am not familiar with "full chisel" cutters.  I have just been using what has come on the saws using OEM chains.  They are all low kickback.

~Bruce


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## Bacffin (Nov 18, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> I had a 455 w/ factory 20" (3/8") bar and it did well. I put an el-cheapo 16" Forestor Bar and Chain (Oregon LGX) and.it worked awesome.
> 
> I probably will never replace a bar tip. I'll just get another.
> 
> ...


 
I normally run the 18" on this saw because I also have a 435 with a 16" bar.
I just want the 20" for the larger rounds.
If I put a 16" on the 455, wouldn't I run the risk of over reving?

Bruce


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## Bacffin (Nov 18, 2012)

amateur cutter said:


> 20" .050 gauge is maxing out a 55cc saw imo. It'll do it, but don't get in a hurry. You'll be running right at the limit for power & oiling capability. Might consider .325 chain & bar, but you'll have to change drive sprockets as well. A C


 
I am never in a hurry using a chain saw.  Curious, why would .325 be such a difference over the .375...Friction?

Thanks,
Bruce


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## computeruser (Nov 18, 2012)

A 2" increase in bar length seems like a waste of money to me, honestly. I didn't always feel this way, but over the years have found that I can accomplish most anything I want to accomplish with either a 16" or 28" bar. If I didn't already own a bunch of nice 20" bars, I would likely stick with 16" and 28" bars. The big part of the equation is a change in cutting technique - more bore cutting, overbucking first to reduce effective log diameter on logs with diameters > bar length, etc. I find I'm more productive this way.  I also find that I am using peppy smaller saws - Husqvarna 346xp (16" bar), Dolmar 5100 (17" bar), Husqvarna 238 (13" bar), Husqvarna 44 (13" bar) - for most cutting tasks, rarely pulling out the bigger saws when in years past a 70-80cc saw with a 20" bar was the go-to tool for most cutting tasks.  Food for thought, anyway.

Most.325" cutters tend to take a smaller bite than most 3/8" cutters. This makes it easier for a saw of marginal power to pull the chain at a given bar length.

If you insist on increasing bar length, Oregon ProLite is fine. It weighs less than PowerMatch and is more than adequately durable for firewood cutting. The solid bars are dead weight for most cutting purposes on <24" bars.


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## TreePointer (Nov 18, 2012)

Bacffin said:


> Thanks TreePointer!
> What does the special "light bar" gain you...Just weight?
> Does the harder Stihl chain give you more life, ie: sharpening and less normal wearing?
> I am not familiar with "full chisel" cutters. I have just been using what has come on the saws using OEM chains. They are all low kickback.
> ...


 
Yep, light bars weigh less. Less overall weight to make you tired. They also change the balance of a saw by moving the center of mass closer to the powerhead.

There may only be a little advantage to using harder chain, but Stihl chain seems to go a little longer between sharpenings than comparable Oregon chain. It is noticeably harder when filing. I have Oregon chain and others and they are not bad.

Chisel (aka full chisel) vs. semi-chisel. This refers to the shape of the tooth.
See recent discussion: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/chisel-chain-box-store-chain-diff.94478/


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## amateur cutter (Nov 18, 2012)

Bacffin said:


> I am never in a hurry using a chain saw. Curious, why would .325 be such a difference over the .375...Friction?
> 
> Thanks,
> Bruce


 
Yep, .325 reduces drag while still being a reasonably fast cutting chain. I used a lot of it years ago before I was able to afford more powerful pro saws. As far is in a "hurry", that's a different thing all together. With a chainsaw haste makes waste, & it's usually in the form of wasted body parts. However, if I can cut 1.5 to 2 rounds to your 1 because my saw is faster cutting, that's not being in a hurry, just a faster cutting saw/bar/chain combo. Whole different deal. A C


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## Bacffin (Nov 18, 2012)

amateur cutter said:


> Yep, .325 reduces drag while still being a reasonably fast cutting chain. I used a lot of it years ago before I was able to afford more powerful pro saws. As far is in a "hurry", that's a different thing all together. With a chainsaw haste makes waste, & it's usually in the form of wasted body parts. However, if I can cut 1.5 to 2 rounds to your 1 because my saw is faster cutting, that's not being in a hurry, just a faster cutting saw/bar/chain combo. Whole different deal. A C


 
I agree.  You are in the industry and you would expect that.

Thanks


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## MasterMech (Nov 19, 2012)

Bacffin said:


> My Husqvarna 455 rancher currently has an 18" bar on it and I would like to get a 20" for the larger rounds. I have looked on Baily's, but not sure what bar and chain manufacture is the best bang for the buck and the large selection looks like I could easily make the wrong choice.
> 
> I will be using this for mostly bucking up logs, not felling and the work is mostly clean. Any suggestions?
> 
> ...


 
I'd agree that 18 to 20" isn't much of a difference.  Unless the 18" setup is worn and needs to be replaced, I'd stick the $70-$100 you're likely to invest in cutting tackle in the kitty and put it towards a saw with enough Harumph to run 24"+. (60cc pro saw).

20" on a 455 isn't torture but like AC said, it ain't gonna break any speed records and probably won't help in the big rounds as much as you expect.


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## Bacffin (Nov 19, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> I'd agree that 18 to 20" isn't much of a difference. Unless the 18" setup is worn and needs to be replaced, I'd stick the $70-$100 you're likely to invest in cutting tackle in the kitty and put it towards a saw with enough Harumph to run 24"+. (60cc pro saw).
> 
> 20" on a 455 isn't torture but like AC said, it ain't gonna break any speed records and probably won't help in the big rounds as much as you expect.


You may be right here and this is probably subconscously why I have not done anything in the past.

What do you guys think? Something along the lines of the 372xp or (I think it is xt now), something in the 70cc range. Might as well look at the 28" capability.  Wish I could test drive these puppies 

Thanks,
Bruce


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## TreePointer (Nov 19, 2012)

Bacffin said:


> You may be right here and this is probably subconscously why I have not done anything in the past.
> 
> What do you guys think? Something along the lines of the 372xp or (I think it is xt now), something in the 70cc range. Might as well look at the 28" capability. Wish I could test drive these puppies
> 
> ...


 
In my earlier post, I wanted to answer your question directly by giving you suggestions for a 20" bar & chain; however, I agree with the others who state that it's likely not worth the investment.

I had a Stihl 290 (.325 pitch, .063 gauge) with a 20" bar, which is very similar in power to a Husqvarna 455. The dealer talked me into the 20" bar because of it's greater reach (and he was out of 18" bars at the time), and it did help in that matter. It was underpowered when I buried it in hardwoods or making stumps, so I would have preferred a 16-18" bar on it.

These days, my preference for firewood cutting is a lighter 50cc saw for limbing and small bucking combined iwth a larger 70cc+ saw for large bucking, noodling, and stump making.


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## Bacffin (Nov 19, 2012)

Thank TreePointer, I understand.  When I have to replace the bar on the 455, I will probably go with the powermatch bar you recommended.  I might just keep it at 18" if and when I decide on a larger saw.  The larger saw does seem to be the right decision in this case.
I have the 435 that I use for the smaller stuff already.

Here is another thought, do you know if Is there a  "trade in" market for chain saws, (the 455)?  The larger ones seem kind of pricey.  This will be a research project in itself comparing all the features and performance etc.  Again, if I cannot test drive it, making an incorrect choice could be costly.

Thanks,
Bruce


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## TreePointer (Nov 19, 2012)

Craigslist is a good local market for chainsaws.  You can sell a used 455 for ~$200-300, depending on condition. 

Jonsered (red Husqvarna saws with a straight handle instead of angled) has had a trade-in program for years.  Participating dealers offer up to $150 per saw.  For comparison purposes, a regular Husqvarna 372XP is essentially the same saw as a Jonsered 2171.


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## HittinSteel (Nov 19, 2012)

Bacffin said:


> You may be right here and this is probably subconscously why I have not done anything in the past.
> 
> What do you guys think? Something along the lines of the 372xp or (I think it is xt now), something in the 70cc range. Might as well look at the 28" capability. Wish I could test drive these puppies
> 
> ...


 
A 372XP is not really a saw you need to test drive. Just check the reviews and try to find someone that will say something bad about the saw (even die hard stihl guys will not knock a 372).  It is simply one of the finest saws ever made.

The stock 372 will pull a 28" just fine. My ported one is an absolute pleasure to run with a 32" bar.


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## DexterDay (Nov 19, 2012)

I used to own a 455 and a 435 (both of them/ the standard 435 and 435-T tophandle). 

Personally, I would sell the 435 on CL and keep the 	455. When the time comes, put a 16" B&C on it and get the 372. That would be a better 2 saw combo (50cc and 70cc). 

I just traded my 455. I used that saw more than any other. I hated to get rid of it   With a 16" 3/8", it does quite well.  

As for the 372. No test drive needed. You wont be able to wipe the smile off your face, if you buy one


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## PapaDave (Nov 19, 2012)

Bacffin, I recently went the other direction with my 455.
I went from a 20" to 18" b/c combo and couldn't be happier. It's a bit lighter and cuts a bit faster too.


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## Bacffin (Nov 19, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> I used to own a 455 and a 435 (both of them/ the standard 435 and 435-T tophandle).
> 
> Personally, I would sell the 435 on CL and keep the 455. When the time comes, put a 16" B&C on it and get the 372. That would be a better 2 saw combo (50cc and 70cc).
> 
> ...


 
I didn't think of that!  That sounds better.  I really like the 455 too.  I have no probem dumping the 435.
Is the 372xt just a newer version of the 372xp?  Most of the reviews I am looking at are on the xp.


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## DexterDay (Nov 19, 2012)

Never heard of XT.. All of there Pro Saws are XP's (346XP, 357XP, 562XP, 372XP, 576XP, 395XP, 3120XP, I missed a lot of them). 

The X-T might be X-Torque motors? 

Just keep reading the 372XP reviews


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## Bacffin (Nov 19, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> Never heard of XT.. All of there Pro Saws are XP's (346XP, 357XP, 562XP, 372XP, 576XP, 395XP, 3120XP, I missed a lot of them).
> 
> The X-T might be X-Torque motors?
> 
> Just keep reading the 372XP reviews


 
Oh Boy, got to get my eyes checked.  I could have sworn it was xt.


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## amateur cutter (Nov 19, 2012)

HittinSteel said:


> A 372XP is not really a saw you need to test drive. Just check the reviews and try to find someone that will say something bad about the saw (even die hard stihl guys will not knock a 372). It is simply one of the finest saws ever made.
> 
> The stock 372 will pull a 28" just fine. My ported one is an absolute pleasure to run with a 32" bar.


 
I'm a die hard Stihl guy, & the only bad thing I have to say about a 372 XP is that I haven't found a decent deal on one yet. They're great saws, I predict that you'll love it. A C


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## HittinSteel (Nov 20, 2012)

Bacffin said:


> Oh Boy, got to get my eyes checked. I could have sworn it was xt.


 
They are stil XP's (husky pro grade), but also carry the XT model name for X Torque. They are strato charged versions of the old design.

Here's some great and definitive reading on the 576 and 372XT.......

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/197366.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/156462.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/140403.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/149464.htm


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## Bacffin (Nov 20, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> Never heard of XT.. All of there Pro Saws are XP's (346XP, 357XP, 562XP, 372XP, 576XP, 395XP, 3120XP, I missed a lot of them).
> 
> The X-T might be X-Torque motors?
> 
> Just keep reading the 372XP reviews


 
Wo! now wait a minute...your a Stihl guy. just saw your line-up...


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## Bacffin (Nov 20, 2012)

HittinSteel said:


> They are stil XP's (husky pro grade), but also carry the XT model name for X Torque. They are strato charged versions of the old design.
> 
> Here's some great and definitive reading on the 576 and 372XT.......
> 
> ...


 
Okay, so I didn't just not see "xt" somewhere in a dream then!  Pardon my ignorance, but what is strato.  I seen it before but really do not know what it stands for.  Is it  modified like my old 68 Dodge Dart with a 426 hemi and 671 Detroit blower?  Ran hight 8's- low 9's at the track.

Thanks for the links...some good stuff in there.

Bruce


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## colin.p (Nov 20, 2012)

H


Bacffin said:


> Is it modified like my old 68 Dodge Dart with a 426 hemi and 671 Detroit blower? Ran hight 8's- low 9's at the track.
> 
> Bruce


 
How in the heck did you get a hemi in a Dart? The headers must have been a nightmare. At least the spark plugs would have been accessible.
However, I would love to have a 372XP.


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## Bacffin (Nov 20, 2012)

colin.p said:


> H
> 
> 
> How in the heck did you get a hemi in a Dart? The headers must have been a nightmare. At least the spark plugs would have been accessible.
> However, I would love to have a 372XP.


 
Came stock with a 440 in it


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## HittinSteel (Nov 20, 2012)

strato is basically the new low emission technology. There used to be a nice link to video showing the combustion cycle of the strato 441 on stihl's website.


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## Nixon (Nov 20, 2012)

Bacffin said:


> I normally run the 18" on this saw because I also have a 435 with a 16" bar.
> I just want the 20" for the larger rounds.
> If I put a 16" on the 455, wouldn't I run the risk of over reving?
> 
> Bruce


Okay Bruce ,here's the deal ..... You are already lost to CAD . You have 2 saws , yet You want something "just a bit better "  Go down and look at the the Stihl Ms 261 , or Husqvarna  562 xp ,or the 555  . It'll cure the itch for a while .  You'll also have a very capable saw !


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## Bacffin (Nov 20, 2012)

Nixon said:


> Okay Bruce ,here's the deal ..... You are already lost to CAD . You have 2 saws , yet You want something "just a bit better "  Go down and look at the the Stihl Ms 261 , or Husqvarna 562 xp ,or the 555 . It'll cure the itch for a while .  You'll also have a very capable saw !


 
Nope, no itch....it's a freekin' rash
Let me explore this one first.  I am startin' to salivate....just a little.
There is this cool dealer not to far from me in Milford N.H.  They have 2 walls of saws.  The huskys and the Stihls. Plenty of touchy feely

Ok, back to readin'


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## JOHN BOY (Nov 20, 2012)

Bacffin..dont buy a bigger saw..lol  Ounce you start down the path of bigger cc's saw's its to late and no returning..You'll love the power and speed of
a big saw. Then they'll be ported muffler mod's with square tooth chain it never ends !! You'll have 5 -7 chainsaw's like the rest of us, so i say GO FOR IT!
Get the 372xp ! One of husqvarna's best saw's ever made You wont want another till you try out the 395xp


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## Nixon (Nov 20, 2012)

Bacffin said:


> Nope, no itch....it's a freekin' rash
> Let me explore this one first. I am startin' to salivate....just a little.
> There is this cool dealer not to far from me in Milford N.H. They have 2 walls of saws. The huskys and the Stihls. Plenty of touchy feely
> 
> Ok, back to readin'


Embrace the rash ! Think of saying things like this to your wife " I really needed an Ms 880 to clear up this mess ,and heat our home . But I found this saw ( fill in the blank ) that's a lot less money and might do the job . It also doesn't hurt to add ....... "  say Hon , have You lost weight ? You're looking really good ! How about We go out for dinner ? "  It works some times


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## Nixon (Nov 20, 2012)

JOHN BOY said:


> Bacffin..dont buy a bigger saw..lol  Ounce you start down the path of bigger cc's saw's its to late and no returning..You'll love the power and speed of
> a big saw. Then they'll be ported muffler mod's with square tooth chain it never ends !! You'll have 5 -7 chainsaw's like the rest of us, so i say GO FOR IT!
> Get the 372xp ! One of husqvarna's best saw's ever made You wont want another till you try out the 395xp


Dude ! You are going to put Him in CAD shock ! It's small steps !  We'll welcome him gradually into the brotherhood .Let Him get into the order gradually . There's plenty of time to talk CC's later . He'll discover Porting on His own .


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## JOHN BOY (Nov 20, 2012)

Ive always been a headfirst kinda Guy... Just dive in !  Get the 372xp !


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## Nixon (Nov 20, 2012)

JOHN BOY said:


> Ive always been a headfirst kinda Guy... Just dive in !  Get the 372xp !


Have to agree ,the 372 is a classic . Don't think anyone would go wrong buying one. I do favor My 390 xp more though . Hey,Bacffin , have We done a good job of spending Your $$$$$$ yet ?


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## DexterDay (Nov 20, 2012)

Bacffin said:


> Wo! now wait a minute...your a Stihl guy. just saw your line-up...



I am a Stihl guy (the 036 was my 1st and it converted me) but they had to pry my Last Husqvarna from my hands 

The 372xp would be welcome in my stable, anyday..... 

Here is a pic of when I started. Remember. CAD happens FAST!! This was only last Summer Now its all Stihl.


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## amateur cutter (Nov 20, 2012)

Guys, it looks like Bruce is one of us doesn't it? Welcome to the CAD club Bruce! You're among friends here.
A C


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## TreePointer (Nov 20, 2012)

There is no cure for CAD.  Don't fight it--feed it.


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## Bacffin (Nov 21, 2012)

Luke, you must learn to curb you're emotions... Or forever will you go down the path of the dark side.


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