# spring project- wood shed



## micaaronfl (Feb 15, 2011)

i was thinking of doing a decent wood shed, but i have a couple of questions. 
due to the size of the backyard i wanted to do two piles deep, taking this into account, can anyone give me an estimate on long and tall the shed should be to hold a cord? 

Also as i have never created a structure before or used cement how far down do the posts have to go? 

anyone have any wood shed blueprints? googled but found nothing. 

i am looking to be a simple shed with a roof so nothing intricate. 

Thanks


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## grateful (Feb 15, 2011)

Well it looks like everyone went to bed early in your area. 
A cord is 4'X4'X8' and the depth will be the length of your wood Xs 2. Around here wood is usually cut to 18". Two stacks of 18" wood equals 3'. The rest of the equation is up to you - how high do you want to stack your wood? Once you know that then you can determine the length of your shed. A cord is 128 cubic feet. My shed is about 20' long X 8' wide and 8' high and it holds about 7 cords. Some of the wood is stacked with each layer of wood in the opposite direction so it will age faster and the rest is stacked in piles with all of the wood in the same direction up to 7' high. Call the local lumber yard and they will tell you how deep your posts need to be, probably 2'.
Perhaps there are plans for a canoe shed which is similar to what you want.
Good luck
Grateful


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## soupy1957 (Feb 15, 2011)

Holy Crap Batman.........7 cords?  I only want a shed (we're getting one put in this summer, also), I only need to hold 3 cords max.  I'm thinking I'd be stacking deeper and wider, rather than taller.  Still working out the need here also (dimensionally).

Lowe's has a few sheds out in the yard (not interested in the metal ones), and so does Home Dippit.........we'll see.........

-Soupy1957


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## xbunzx (Feb 15, 2011)

Just remember when its full your done. I'd go big. just saying


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## mywaynow (Feb 15, 2011)

What I would be planning is a shed that could hold  seasons of burning.  Here's why;  Good wood is best after at least 2 seaons (oak, elm etc), which means that you need 2 curing as you use the current load.  You will be stacking rows that go to and away from your access point.  This way you can replenish the consumed row in the off season and not have to worry about ease of access to the next row.  I would even plan 4 years to that you can have an empty row to make access even easier.  Confused?  I may be??


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## Martin Strand III (Feb 15, 2011)

Here's what you need, Bub.

Just scaler down to what works for you.

http://www.woodheat.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=44&Itemid=53

Enjoy,
Marty


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## roxys dad (Feb 15, 2011)

I guess i'm from a different piont of view. My woodshed holds about 1-1/4 cords and is close to the house, Keeping wood in a shed that protects the wood from blowing snow and rain cuts down on the air circulation needed to dry it properly. I store all the rest of the wood further away from the house on pallets covered on top with rubber roofing material until seasoned then move it into the shed filling one side and using wood from the other side until empty that way i'm not burying most usable stuff.


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## Martin Strand III (Feb 15, 2011)

roxys dad said:
			
		

> I guess i'm from a different piont of view. My woodshed holds about 1-1/4 cords and is close to the house, Keeping wood in a shed that protects the wood from blowing snow and rain cuts down on the air circulation needed to dry it properly. I store all the rest of the wood further away from the house on pallets covered on top with rubber roofing material until seasoned then move it into the shed filling one side and using wood from the other side until empty that way i'm not burying most usable stuff.



I'm not in favor of seasoning wood by stacking it in a shed.  The shed is for seasoned wood ready to burn.

Ideally, to season wood, splits should be stacked on a ridge in the sun where there is good air flow.  Covering it is controversial.

Aye,
Marty


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## muncybob (Feb 15, 2011)

I agree with Marty. I plan to continue to season my wood out in the open. Once ready to burn it will be transferred to my yet to be built shed(this spring I hope!). I'm planning to build one that will hold a year's worth of wood with a bit of a buffer, so for me that will be 4.5 to 5 cords. I also plan to use one end of the shed to store some tools, etc. There are conflicting view points on putting the posts into the ground or not. If I do bury my posts I will dig below the frost line(around here that will be min 3') and either put the posts directly into the ground or build concrete footers to rest the posts onto. Do a search and you will come up with some good ideas on shed construction...some real beauties have been posted here.


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## firefighterjake (Feb 15, 2011)

Random thoughts . . .

As mentioned a cord is 128 square feet (or another way of thinking is wood stacked 4 feet high by 4 feet wide by 8 feet long) . . . to build a shed that would hold a single cord of wood you would want something that would fit those dimensions . . . just remember that depending on the construction type (i.e. using a traditional wood stud wall like I did for example vs. large corner posts) you may want to build the shed a dite larger since you will lose some of that space due to the construction (i.e. due to walls I lose 8 inches or so on the sides and 4 inches on the back wall.)

I'm also a believer of going larger if you can afford to do so and if you have the space . . . I find it is always a good feeling to look into a shed and have wood left over by the end of the burning season vs. being left with nothing or having to dig out wood from under the snow. Any wood left over from one year can always be used in the next year . . . plus a larger woodshed means you may use it for other purposes (i.e. I added a snowmobile lean to shed on to my woodshed for my brother in law to store his sleds.)

If you truly only want to build a shed for one cord of wood and are looking at two rows of wood you have to decide how tall you want to stack the wood, how long you want your shed and how deep your wood will be . . . I generally figure my wood to be about 2 feet long -- namely since I use 20-22 inch wood and like most guys tend to round up when talking about wood   -- I suspect a shed 4 feet wide by 6 feet tall and 6 feet long would work for you . . . but again . . . if you're building and using standard 8 foot lumber you might as well go 4 feet wide, 8 feet tall and 8 feet long . . . it will give you more headroom, more storage for wood and fewer cuts.

Building a woodshed is a relatively easy project . . . it's a simple box or rectangle with a half sloped roof on top . . . of course there is a little more to it than that . . . such as making sure your corners are good and the whole thing is tied together . . . but honestly, it's a relatively simple construction project . . . and the true beauty is that since it is "only" a woodshed it can be as fancy or as simple as you want . . . if you do a search you'll find woodsheds cobbled together out of pallets or scrap wood and other fancier ones that are stained or painted with fancier roof lines and even electricity . . . the truth of the matter is that simple or fancy . . . they all do the same job -- keep the wood high and dry and allow you to avoid using tarps or other covers.

Foundation . . . as Muncybob mentioned some folks dig holes and use "sauna" tubes to create footings below the frost lines . . . others just use blocking above the ground . . . some of this depends on your terrain and soil which may limit how much the frost will move the shed . . . and sometimes it just is a matter of folks not caring if the shed is not perfectly level ten or twenty years down the road.

Being able to go to Lowes or Home Depot and get a shed has a certain appeal . . . but I'm not sure if the floors would be up to the weight of the wood . . . wood is heavy . . . which is why many folks go with concrete, gravel or rock pads . . . or use pallets for the floor . . . you can use wood . . . but in my opinion it should be plenty beefy to carry the weight of the wood.

Best advice . . . do a search on this site for woodsheds . . . and if you see a shed that you like and it seems like the right size or you can scale it down . . . ask the builder if they could give you more details on how they built it since there truly are a lot of ways to build a woodshed.


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## Martin Strand III (Feb 15, 2011)

firefighterjake said:
			
		

> Random thoughts . . .
> 
> As mentioned a cord is 128 square feet (or another way of thinking is wood stacked 4 feet high by 4 feet wide by 8 feet long) . . .SNIP.



I'm sure you mean a cord is 128 cubic feet.  Three dimensions is cubic; 2 dimensions is square.

The Devil is in the details...

Aye,
Marty


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## kettensÃ¤ge (Feb 15, 2011)

Set the posts in concrete. The firewood will push them off of footers when you stack against it. Concrete will keep them from rotting.

I also season and store 7 cords in my shed, 6'X8'x22', off the ground, tin siding for a roof, fully open sides. It all dries over the summer, shaded lot. 
Would not want to move it twice.


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## firefighterjake (Feb 15, 2011)

Marty S said:
			
		

> firefighterjake said:
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D'oh . . . math was never my strong point . . . I keep forgetting . . . thanks for keeping me on the straight and narrow and good path Marty.

Oh yeah . . . that reminds me . . . I also agree with Marty about not seasoning my wood in a shed . . . I season my wood outside for a year prior to putting it in the woodshed . . . and then it gets an extra year of "seasoning" as I do not use that wood that year but take from the wood that was left over from the previous year . . . personally I think the wood seasons a bit . . . but since it is stacked tightly and doesn't get as much wind or sun I'm guessing it doesn't continue to season quite so quickly.


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## gpcollen1 (Feb 15, 2011)

No way around it, you are going to have to do some math.  Or take the easy way out...

http://www.maine.gov/ag/firewood.html

My 'wood shed' is currently one of those a-frame canopies that was 10x20 when I started until a big wind flipped it and bend some poles.  Now it is 10x12.  It sits on top of a pallet base and has a tarp that I string up for 3 side walls int he winter.  I stack about 6-8 feet high so I get about 6 or more cords in there.  I am hoping to hit the ground running this spring and get the area excavated for a new wood shed.  I plan on going 8x16 long and 6 ft high = 6 cords on the button.  That is about what I use in a bad winter right now.  I plan on using less once I finish fixing the house...

Search through this forum and you will find plenty of pictures and builds of woodshed from users of this site...


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## kettensÃ¤ge (Feb 15, 2011)

I'm not sure I would go much higher on the inside than 6 or 6 1/2' (measured from the top of the floor). You want to be able to walk around with out bumping your head but still be able to comfortably stack and unstack without a stepstool. Add capacity by going longer/wider.

If you buy 8' posts and have 6' interior height, and a 4" thick floor you will be setting the posts 20" into the concrete, more or less, depending on roof framing. Should be more than enough. I don't think frost is a big factor with a wood shed, There are no windows or doors that will bind or drywall to crack. You just want enough of an anchor for the posts not to get dislodged.


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## roxys dad (Feb 15, 2011)

another consideration for woodsheds is lighting, accidently put mine by an outdoor floodlight on a motion detector shines right into the shed, short winter days mean plenty of times your getting wood in the dark.

roxys dad


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## Martin Strand III (Feb 15, 2011)

CTwoodburner said:
			
		

> No way around it, you are going to have to do some math.  Or take the easy way out...
> 
> http://www.maine.gov/ag/firewood.html SNIP...



"Doing math" to figure wood cordage is no biggie.  No fancy electronic gadgets or searching web sites are required.

You already know 128 cu ft is a full cord of stacked firewood (4' x 4' x 8').  Ignore air spaces you're worried about.

1.  Measure your stacked wood: 8'3"L x 5'8"D x 4'6"H

2.  Multiply those figures IN FEET: 8.25'L x 5.67'D x 4.5'H = 210.5 cu ft

3.  Divide by 128 (the cu ft in 1 cord): 210.5/128 = 1.6 cords of wood

Surely big boys like you can do this.

Aye,
Marty
Grandma used to say, "Don't work harder.  Work smarter."


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## kettensÃ¤ge (Feb 15, 2011)

If W X H is 6'x6' each foot of Length will hold about .28 cords (6x6/128) Use your calculators' constant function to find capacity by multplying .28 (or whatever you decide as W and H,) by the L dim.

.28 x 5' long =1.4
.28 x 7' long= 1.9
.28 x 9' long= 2.5 cords. 

 A 4x6 WxH profile will yield .19 cords per foot of length. 

Decide your H first, then W, calculate L for desired capacity.


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## Martin Strand III (Feb 15, 2011)

Sometimes working with numbers can be weird.  Like that last post.

Ponder on this one a bit:  

If tonight is supposed to be twice as cold as last night, which was 0* F,
what will the thermometer read tonight?


Aye,
Marty
Grandma used to say, "Just thinking does not make it so."


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## kettensÃ¤ge (Feb 15, 2011)

Weird how?


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## mecreature (Feb 15, 2011)

I like the looks of this. It will match its surroundings. 
I am figuring 12ft long by 3 ft deep give or take a foot or 2... 

the rest is on skids or stacked on boards and covered on the top. 

I get out and about all winter so restocking the shed will be no biggie


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## shawneyboy (Feb 15, 2011)

mecreature said:
			
		

> I like the looks of this. It will match its surroundings.
> I am figuring 12ft long by 3 ft deep give or take a foot or 2...
> 
> the rest is on skids or stacked on boards and covered on the top.
> ...




No Biggie untill there is a foot of snow on the ground, or like what we had this year a foot of snow with a half inch ice on top.....  

Shawn

PS here is my wood shed....


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## micaaronfl (Feb 15, 2011)

thanks guys i was looking to do a 7 foot tall and 15 foot wide shed. someone said on the thread i should go 2 feet deep? so i guess 9 foot posts. also to concrete the thing in,after i dig the holes do i pour cement in and then push the posts into the center hole? sorry first time working with concrete too. also any certain type of concrete?


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## roxys dad (Feb 15, 2011)

Going to try and post pictures of my shed built 2 years ago went 4 foot wide two rows of 16" splits, I pull the tarps over when bad weather in the forcast, used fence for sides and back gives the wood a little more air and knocks the snow and rain down, cemented posts and poured cement floor on a pitch to run any water out. I'm sure alot of carpenters will laugh at my efforts but it works for me.


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## shawneyboy (Feb 15, 2011)

Buy Sono (sp) tubes at Lowes/HD...  Dig hole, set tube, insert post, secure post after plumbing it,  pour concrete. 

 Be SURE to use something like a metal rod to be sure no air pockets exist in concrete.  Stick it in and out, all around the post.

Shawn


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## muncybob (Feb 15, 2011)

This is basically what I did for my deck footers, except I used the pre shaped cylinders(sono tube?) placed into my holes to pour the concrete into.
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/decks/oldporch/found/footing.htm
We hand dug down about 40"...a gas powered post hole digger would be easier and quicker.
I plan to do basically the same for the shed...I'm told it's overkill for a shed as a buddy is trying to talk me into just setting the posts directly into the ground. I just don't want to risk rotting posts in 15 years or so.


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## mecreature (Feb 15, 2011)

muncybob said:
			
		

> This is basically what I did for my deck footers, except I used the pre shaped cylinders(sono tube?) placed into my holes to pour the concrete into.
> http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/decks/oldporch/found/footing.htm
> We hand dug down about 40"...a gas powered post hole digger would be easier and quicker.
> I plan to do basically the same for the shed...I'm told it's overkill for a shed as a buddy is trying to talk me into just setting the posts directly into the ground. I just don't want to risk rotting posts in 15 years or so.



x2


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## micaaronfl (Feb 15, 2011)

wow this is getting complicated lol, is there any harm in digging a hole, pouring some concrete in, sticking the post in, add some more concrete and calling it a day? i dont want it to fall over, but with wood on it i would doubt that anyway.


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## varna (Feb 15, 2011)

What I did was buy a carport, 14' X 21' with 6' high sides. Only roofing, with gable ends, all sides open. I put in 12 cord or so. I was going to build a 12 X 20 shed myself with PT wood and by the time I figured my costs and my time, it was just as cheap for me to drink some cold Molson's while watching someone else put up the carport. I love it. I have tarps that I can drop for driving windy rain or snow, then I can roll them up and let the wind blow through. 
This is not mine but similar to what I put up.


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## muncybob (Feb 15, 2011)

I'm no expert...but those that consider themselves more knowledgable than me(doesn't take much!) all advised against wood into concrete...again with the eventual rotting in mind. With that said, I have a deck on our house that's at least 20 yrs old and posts are set into concrete...no problms yet.
Using the tubes was easy...just takes overnight for the concrete to set up before you can actually set the post on. 
Simply dig hole, place tube into hole plumb and level and fill. Get air out(already mentioned) with a piece of rebar and place j-bolt into firm concrete(maybe 15-30 minutes after pouring). Next day install brackets and secure posts. Worked for us......


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## John_M (Feb 15, 2011)

roxy's dad, Those who might laugh at your wood shed will be doing so with envy. Many here who do not have a wood shed would love to have yours: they would be the neighborhood wood shed heroes.  ;-) 

micaaronfl and muncybob: When designing my new home during 2004 the architect specified that all wood in contact with concrete must be TREATED. His plans were approved without comments by the Otsego County Building Codes Inspectors. So, I would assume using TREATED lumber in concrete would also be approved as an acceptable construction technique for your new wood shed. This is a good time of year to start planning the shed because the construction will probably take much longer than you anticipate. Good luck.    John_M


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## Martin Strand III (Feb 15, 2011)

My shed.  Holds about 3 cords.  Enough for a winter.  Now 2/3 empty.  'Bout right.  24' long with 3 4' bays.  Metal roof.  Breathes nice.

Aye,
Marty


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## Wood Duck (Feb 15, 2011)

micaaronfl said:
			
		

> wow this is getting complicated lol, is there any harm in digging a hole, pouring some concrete in, sticking the post in, add some more concrete and calling it a day? i dont want it to fall over, but with wood on it i would doubt that anyway.



If you are using treated lumber, and if you mound up the concrete around the wood to make sure the water drains away from the wood, then you will be OK for many years. I wouldn't build my house this way, but a wood shed, maybe I would. We go down two feet here in central PA and it seems to work OK.


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## Thistle (Feb 15, 2011)

shawneyboy said:
			
		

> Buy Sono (sp) tubes at Lowes/HD...  Dig hole, set tube, insert post, secure post after plumbing it,  pour concrete.
> 
> Be SURE to use something like a metal rod to be sure no air pockets exist in concrete.  Stick it in and out, all around the post.
> 
> Shawn



Stick one in the drill chuck & give it a few spins/pokes as well.Also tap all around on the outside of the sonotube with a hammer or stick of wood to work the same as a concrete vibrator does.Have to get it all consolidated.


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## Martin Strand III (Feb 15, 2011)

Wood Duck said:
			
		

> micaaronfl said:
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Home Depot sells precast concrete blocks that fit 4 x 4 posts and 2 x (6, 8, 10s) beams.  Use treated lumber on them and then build up with pine from there.  The concrete blocks require leveling and sit on the ground.  No holes needed.  I built a large dog house with deck with them and they worked out fine.  They could be used for a wood shed foundation.

Aye,
Marty


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## micaaronfl (Feb 15, 2011)

i didn't know that home depot sold concrete blocks thanks man


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## micaaronfl (Feb 15, 2011)

guys, can u all post pictures of your wood shed. i don't have much land so i cant put a car port in, and my wife is looking for one that is pretty if that is possible. the problem here, is i do not have much of a backyard and my wife wants something that looks good and can hold at least a cord. i i build something that she doesnt like i will hear about it the whole friggin summer.


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## Jim41 (Feb 16, 2011)

roxys dad said:
			
		

> I guess i'm from a different piont of view. My woodshed holds about 1-1/4 cords and is close to the house, Keeping wood in a shed that protects the wood from blowing snow and rain cuts down on the air circulation needed to dry it properly. I store all the rest of the wood further away from the house on pallets covered on top with rubber roofing material until seasoned then move it into the shed filling one side and using wood from the other side until empty that way i'm not burying most usable stuff.


 
    Roxys dad: I'm with you, I stack and cover with rubber roofing I got from my brother in law who is in the construction trade. I also have the Regency I2400. I usaully stack my deck when the weather turns, re-stackibng as needed. Also some in the cellar for the nor'esters so I don't have to go outside.


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## Lumber-Jack (Feb 16, 2011)

micaaronfl said:
			
		

> guys, can u all post pictures of your wood shed. i don't have much land so i cant put a car port in, and my wife is looking for one that is pretty if that is possible. the problem here, is i do not have much of a backyard and my wife wants something that looks good and can hold at least a cord. i i build something that she doesnt like i will hear about it the whole friggin summer.


I live on a smaller city size lot (70'x110') and didn't want my wood stacks becoming an eye sore, so what I came up with was to build a long narrow woodshed along the property line next to my driveway. The back of the woodshed doubles as the (much needed) fence between me and my neighbor. The metal roof matches the house and garage, and I stuccoed the house to match the woodshed.  ;-) 
Each section is two rows deep and holds approximately one cord.




The backside


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## SolarAndWood (Feb 16, 2011)

My shed is 9x20x10 with a stone base under a cantilevered roof behind the garage.


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## firefighterjake (Feb 16, 2011)

Carbon_Liberator said:
			
		

> micaaronfl said:
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But CL you didn't tell him about the best part . . . the super secret compartment that you can use in case we get bombed . . . or where you can store your most prized firewood.


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## Intheswamp (Feb 16, 2011)

John_M said:
			
		

> roxy's dad, Those who might laugh at your wood shed will be doing so with envy. Many here who do not have a wood shed would love to have yours: they would be the neighborhood wood shed heroes.  ;-)
> 
> micaaronfl and muncybob: When designing my new home during 2004 the architect specified that all wood in contact with concrete must be TREATED. His plans were approved without comments by the Otsego County Building Codes Inspectors. So, I would assume using TREATED lumber in concrete would also be approved as an acceptable construction technique for your new wood shed. This is a good time of year to start planning the shed because the construction will probably take much longer than you anticipate. Good luck.    John_M


I'm not sure about that board of inspectors but from my experience wood posts that are surrounded by concrete do as they would without being surrounded by concrete...they shrink.  When the posts shrink they pull away from the concrete leaving a gap in which moisture/water will easily find it's way into and be basically trapped against the wood.  Eventually the wood can/will rot, whether it's treated or not(especially if not treated)  Today's treated lumber is rather weakly treated and doesn't hold up as well as the old arsenic treated wood of yesteryear.

If you use the "dig a hole, put in post, fill with concrete" method then at least put some gravel/pieces of brick in the bottom of the hole (for drainage help) and slope the top of the concrete away from the wood to help the water run away from the wood.  The gaps can be filled with silicone, wood preservatives, dead cats, or whatever that might help things.

YMMV,
Ed


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## mecreature (Feb 16, 2011)

Intheswamp said:
			
		

> John_M said:
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I get the same thing happening when I sink poles around my area. I have always brought mine above ground and made a nice crown 
that sloped the water away from the pole and I get the same thing cracked concrete and water gets in. 
The Farmer down the road from me said he don't bring the cement above ground but leaves it under 6 or so inches and no more e poles popping out.

and I agree....YMMV but I will try his solution next time.


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## OhioBurner© (Feb 16, 2011)

I'd like to build a woodshed at some point, perhaps sooner than later if I can do it cheaply & use logs from the woods & materials on hand.

One question I have as most of my carpentry experience is shelves and such inside:
If you dont sink posts in the ground (concrete or not) and are placing them on stones, or those preformed blocks, how do you prevent the shed from blowing away? Do you anchor it down somehow? Ou property gets a lot of wind year round, and especially without a floor, I dont see how a big open shed with roof (read: sail) will stay in one place. But not having to dig 6-8 holes (minimum) will save a lot of work and money, as well as the cost of all that concrete.


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## shawneyboy (Feb 16, 2011)

â–ºâ–ºOhioBurnerâ—„â—„â„¢ said:
			
		

> I'd like to build a woodshed at some point, perhaps sooner than later if I can do it cheaply & use logs from the woods & materials on hand.
> 
> One question I have as most of my carpentry experience is shelves and such inside:
> If you dont sink posts in the ground (concrete or not) and are placing them on stones, or those preformed blocks, how do you prevent the shed from blowing away? Do you anchor it down somehow? Are property gets a lot of wind year round, and especially without a floor, I dont see how a big open shed with roof (read: sail) will stay in one place. But not having to dig 6-8 holes (minimum) will save a lot of work and money, as well as the cost of all that concrete.



See attached picture.  We have had wind gusts at around 50 this winter....  Shed made from pallets and 6 inch standing dead wood for walls (not in concrete), reclaimed presure treated wood cross bracing in walls, floor is only pallets laid down on top of Poly on the ground (not attached to walls),only thing purchased was some presure treated wood in roof, and actuall metal on roof.  The shed has NOT moved an inch.  Lucky? maybe but TBH I doubt it will go anywhere, at least not until it totally collapses in say 5-6 years.


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## PapaDave (Feb 16, 2011)

Here's the thread I put up last year about my woodshed. https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/54742/
So you don't have to read the whole thing, I bought pressure treated 4x4's, put them in holes about 3' down. No concrete. We have very good drainage here, since most everything is sand. 
30'x40' pole barn is built in a similar fashion, except code required 42", and a concrete pad in the hole to distribute load.


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## gpcollen1 (Feb 16, 2011)

Marty S said:
			
		

> CTwoodburner said:
> 
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I can do the Math in my head without your illustration.  The post was for the OP...


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## gpcollen1 (Feb 16, 2011)

muncybob said:
			
		

> This is basically what I did for my deck footers, except I used the pre shaped cylinders(sono tube?) placed into my holes to pour the concrete into.
> http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/decks/oldporch/found/footing.htm
> We hand dug down about 40"...a gas powered post hole digger would be easier and quicker.
> I plan to do basically the same for the shed...I'm told it's overkill for a shed as a buddy is trying to talk me into just setting the posts directly into the ground. I just don't want to risk rotting posts in 15 years or so.



That method is not the one you want to use.  I like the footer but that should be at the bottom of the sonotube and rebar from the footer to the sono tube.  Top of the sono tube to ground level or above.  Use that same bracket at the surface and install 4x4 or 6x6 on top.  Those brackets are expensive [$15] but work quite well.  There is a 1/2" gap between the bottom of the bracket and the top that the post is attached to...  I suppose it all depends on how long you want the posts to last.  There is no need to be burying the posts these days.

like this 
http://www.handymanwire.com/articles/decksupport.html


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## firefighterjake (Feb 16, 2011)

â–ºâ–ºOhioBurnerâ—„â—„â„¢ said:
			
		

> I'd like to build a woodshed at some point, perhaps sooner than later if I can do it cheaply & use logs from the woods & materials on hand.
> 
> One question I have as most of my carpentry experience is shelves and such inside:
> If you dont sink posts in the ground (concrete or not) and are placing them on stones, or those preformed blocks, how do you prevent the shed from blowing away? Do you anchor it down somehow? Are property gets a lot of wind year round, and especially without a floor,* I dont see how a big open shed with roof (read: sail) will stay in one place. But not having to dig 6-8 holes (minimum) will save a lot of work and money, as well as the cost of all that concrete*.



Weight . . . lots of weight . . . I know my woodshed is plenty heavy without wood . . . once loaded with wood it's not going anywhere short of having a direct hurricaine strike or tornado touch down on top of it . . . and if that happens I'm ready . . . got my ruby red slippers all ready to go.


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## Martin Strand III (Feb 16, 2011)

CTwoodburner said:
			
		

> Marty S said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



FYI: Not everyone has your math talents.  I'm glad you told me as well as others reading this string.

Aye,
Marty


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## Kaptain (Feb 16, 2011)

Marty S said:
			
		

> CTwoodburner said:
> 
> 
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It seems like it would be easier to simply click on a link, enter the variables of the stacked wood, and click the 'calculate' button to figure out what you have... 

Especially when you have 'Don't work harder.  Work Smarter' in your sig...


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## John_M (Feb 16, 2011)

micaaronfl, Here is a link to the wood shed I built last summer and fall. If you look closely at the concrete piers holding up the shed you will see the "concrete blocks" referenced by Marty S. The vertical 4" x 4" vertical treated posts fit into a "pocket" at the top of the pier. Drainage slots prevent any water build-up in the pocket. I believe I purchased these at Home Depot. Please note that I removed all the sod in the area where each pier was positioned. This revealed the original dirt put here by glaciers many moons ago. It is therefore very stable and probably not prone to any other settling. Also note that because the ground there slopes, I had to bury the upper piers quite a bit to compensate for the slope.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/64043/ 

Here is another link with more construction details: https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/61234/

Looking carefully at the wide photos shows the roof of the shed seeming to bulge up and the deck of the shed bulging down. Neither the roof nor the deck bulge in any direction. The bulging look is known as the "pin cushion" effect and is caused by the camera lens I was using and by standing too close to the shed for the photo. 

I built a similar shed with identical piers about 20 years ago in Idaho and a friend tells me it hasn't noticeably moved or settled in those years.    John_M


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## mecreature (Feb 16, 2011)

That is one sweet wood shed John M


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## John_M (Feb 16, 2011)

micaaronfl, I've added another link to my post above. If you are interested, the new link explains and shows more of the construction details.


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## OhioBurner© (Feb 16, 2011)

firefighterjake said:
			
		

> Weight . . . lots of weight . . . I know my woodshed is plenty heavy without wood . . . once loaded with wood it's not going anywhere short of having a direct hurricaine strike or tornado touch down on top of it . . . and if that happens I'm ready . . . got my ruby red slippers all ready to go.



I take it yours has a floor then. I am mainly considering the no floor option, but even with a floor, when its empty...


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## firefighterjake (Feb 17, 2011)

â–ºâ–ºOhioBurnerâ—„â—„â„¢ said:
			
		

> firefighterjake said:
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> ...



Yes . . . I have a wood floor in my shed.


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## kettensÃ¤ge (Feb 17, 2011)

Agree with having a floor, a lot of moisture comes out of the ground. Cover the ground with plastic before building the floor.


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## ironpony (Feb 17, 2011)

around here the new recomended method is
dig hole
put a concrete footer in the bottom
poured or round pre-cast
set post in hole
fill with gravel and compact as filling


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## Lumber-Jack (Feb 17, 2011)

firefighterjake said:
			
		

> Carbon_Liberator said:
> 
> 
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Now c'mon Jake, you know that's suppose to be a secret between you and me, and just a few hundred YouTube viewers.  ;-)

Actually that underground hole has worked out really well for storing stuff I want to keep cool, but don't want to freeze, from paint and acrylic stucco to vegetables. And the space above that I originally was going to use to store firewood is used for storeing all the recycle stuff (which can get pretty bulky at times), and for a place to store the garbage for the week until it's time to put them out by the side of the road. It turns out I don't need that extra space for firewood anyway, it's funny how things work out sometimes.


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## Lumber-Jack (Feb 17, 2011)

As for a woodshed blowing away, really anything that isn't anchored to the ground runs the risk of blowing away given a strong enough wind. Last year our trampoline blew over and almost ended up in the neighbors yard. Two more trampolines (that I knew about) blew away in that same storm, and a 5th wheel RV, just down the street from us, flipped right upside down. And yet, I've been waiting for my unfinished 16' x16' lean to roof I have off the back of my house to blow off and it hasn't so far. It is only anchored down with weighted post blocks at this time. I did take the extra precaution to glue the metal post saddles into the cement blocks so the posts saddles couldn't just lift up out of the blocks if a wind gust were to pick up the roof. Still, I'm sure there are winds out there that could take the roof and the post and the blocks if it had a mind to.
I share OhioBurner's concerns about an (empty) unanchored shed blowing over in a strong wind. I'd want to find some way to anchor it to the ground.


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## micaaronfl (Feb 17, 2011)

wow guys, i didnt get a email notification there were responses to my wood shed pictures. Carbon that is amazing. 

i am definitely going to do the concrete footers from HD and i was thinking about digging a hole and placing them in. Do you think adding concrete on top would be beneficial?  more stable or overkill?


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## Willman (Feb 18, 2011)

All kinds of footing schemes here. I like the pvc redi footing at the bottom of the page. Rot free with 5 ton capacity.

http://www.deckmagazine.com/article/32.html

Will


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## OhioBurner© (Feb 18, 2011)

ironpony said:
			
		

> around here the new recomended method is
> dig hole
> put a concrete footer in the bottom
> poured or round pre-cast
> ...



Thats how my pole barn was built last year, I think, I was not home the first day when they sat the poles in. I do know they used them cement donuts and pretty sure they just back filled with gravel. Of course we are in the same area.

But in trying to do a budget shed, I'd like to avoid having to dig holes and purchase cement / donuts / whatever as well as save 2-3' from every pole. And I have plenty of palets to stack wood on so floor not needed either. I just worry about the wind here. Last year the wind peeled back several feet of old metal roofing on the chicken coup in two spots, and the neighbor down the road lost some metal roofing as well, it was dangling from the utility lines... Were on a bit of a knoll, and directly to the west (where the wind is coming from) are open farm fields.

If I can find the right diamter locust tree I suppose I dont mind setting em in the ground, I'll just either have to rent an auger or see if I can get one of the neighbors over with their tractor, as its pretty dense clay (and stone since it used to be a driveway).


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## 727sunset (Feb 20, 2011)

micaaronfl said:
			
		

> guys, can u all post pictures of your wood shed. i don't have much land so i cant put a car port in, and my wife is looking for one that is pretty if that is possible. the problem here, is i do not have much of a backyard and my wife wants something that looks good and can hold at least a cord. i i build something that she doesnt like i will hear about it the whole friggin summer.




Here's what i put up a year ago. The long side serves as a fence along the property line. And when inclement weather arrives the roll up tarps can be deployed. 


















Posts were harvested from local cedar trees, cut and peeled. Everything here is sand and i sunk the posts down about apx 3 feet. Crushed stone was put under the post and tamped in place all the way to grade. Pallets are sitting on apx 6" of crushed stone to preserve their lifespan. Each section is 8' and holds about a cord.


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## John_M (Feb 21, 2011)

All around, a very convenient and neat design, 727. I envy the hose bib and raised growing bed.  ;-) John_M


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## PapaDave (Feb 21, 2011)

Very nice setup 727.
Just out of curiosity, where (approx) are you on the shoreline. That's a big shoreline. We had a summer place in E. Tawas. Sold it when we moved here.


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## Wood Duck (Feb 21, 2011)

micaaronfl said:
			
		

> wow guys, i didnt get a email notification there were responses to my wood shed pictures. Carbon that is amazing.
> 
> i am definitely going to do the concrete footers from HD and i was thinking about digging a hole and placing them in. Do you think adding concrete on top would be beneficial?  more stable or overkill?



If you want to place the concrete blocks in a hole, dig the hole 6 inches deeper than you want the bottom of the block to sit and fill the extra 6 inches with cement. That will make a nice, solid, level place to put the precast concrete block. It is a good idea because it will remove the upper part of the soil, which tends to be softer and less adequate for a footing than the soil below. I would remove at least a foot of soil, or dig until it gets hard to dig, indicating solidly compacted soil. I would not add extra cement over the concrete block, that is overkill for a woodshed. For the concrete to fill the bottom of the hole, just buy a bag or two of quickcrete and add water per the instructions on the bag. As long as you are somewhere close to the right amount of water you'll be fine.

When you pour the cement you will want to make sure the top of the cement in all holes are at the same elevation. I would pound two wooden stakes into the ground on opposite sides of the area where the holes will be and place either a string or a board between the stakes. Make sure the string or board is level, then use it to measure down to the top of the cement in each hole. I am assuming you don't have a laser level, which would replace the string or board.


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## begreen (Feb 21, 2011)

Our shed had the cement piers in the soil, no cement poured around them. It is solid as a rock and going nowhere.


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## 727sunset (Feb 22, 2011)

PapaDave ~ I'm on the Ontario side, just N of Goderich.


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## PapaDave (Feb 22, 2011)

My bad to presume you were in the states.
I haven't been to Canada since I was in my teens. TOO long ago.


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## Alan Gage (Feb 22, 2011)

Marty S said:
			
		

> Ponder on this one a bit:
> 
> If tonight is supposed to be twice as cold as last night, which was 0* F,
> what will the thermometer read tonight?



The easy way out is to claim it's a flawed question since we all know there's no such thing as cold, only a lack of heat. 

But if you were to rephrase the question and ask what the temp will be if there's half the heat as when the thermometer reads 0*F  I'd say the answer would be -229.5*F.

Alan


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