# Chain Sharpening



## Berner (Aug 12, 2014)

Any of you guys use this to sharpen your chainsaw blades in the field?  

http://powersharp.com/powersharp_video.asp

If you don't like to click links (I don't either) google "Oregon Powersharp".  Then just click your region.

Pretty sad that I"m just getting around to sharpening my own blades but I feel as if it is a necessary step.  Currently I send them to a guy down the street.  When I get them back I absolutely love the way they cut which reminds me that I should be doing this more often.  

Is the powersharp a good first step or is it the lazy mans way out?

Thanks for your help.


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## SIERRADMAX (Aug 12, 2014)

Powersharp is the lazy mans way out IMO and you must use their chain & stone. It has a special designated chain.

If it's your 445 you're sharpening, find out what chain you have and buy the files/guides to learn yourself.


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## Clarkbug (Aug 12, 2014)

Berner said:


> Is the powersharp a good first step or is it the lazy mans way out?



You have to use their bar and chain and sharpener, and it works well if you only ever need to cut a little wood.  If you have a lot to buck up, you would do well to learn yourself.

I really like the husky roller guide.  Good results, easy to use, and relatively inexpensive.


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## D8Chumley (Aug 12, 2014)

I got what Clarkbug suggested for hand filing my 3/8" chains, and I'm getting better at it ( Once I figured out how to use it lol )  
http://www.lowes.com/pd_41205-86886...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=
Also found this while searching Lowes, might be good for someone looking for a whole PPE kit
http://www.lowes.com/pd_525764-8688...RL=?Ntt=husqvarna+chain+sharpening&facetInfo=


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## Bigg_Redd (Aug 12, 2014)

Berner said:


> *Is the powersharp* a good first step or is it *the lazy mans way out?*
> 
> Thanks for your help.



Yes.  And very likely an inadequate one.


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## Jon1270 (Aug 12, 2014)

A professional logging instructor told me it works pretty well, but it's not clear to me how it handles the rakers.  I kind of suspect it works less well as the chain gets worn down, but I don't really know.

Like Clarkbug, I really like the Husky roller guides.


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## Berner (Aug 12, 2014)

Yes I figured it looked too easy to be effective.   Dumb question but how do I figure out what kind of chains I have?   I believe I got two with the saw and bought another one that was not necessarily the same.  Of course I discarded the box that had all the important info on it.   

If it helps it has a number 25 on top of the teeth and a number 30 on the bottom.  

The other chain has a 37 on bottom but no number on top.  

Will the husqvarna file guide work on different chains?


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## SIERRADMAX (Aug 13, 2014)

Does the bar have a 9 digit number stamped on the side?

My guess is it's a .325 pitch, .050 gauge. I doubt they put a 3/8" pitch on your Husqvarna 445.

505 69 81-94 is the kit. use a 3/16" file.


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## Jon1270 (Aug 13, 2014)

Berner said:


> Will the husqvarna file guide work on different chains?



There are several kits, depending on chain type -- 3/8 standard, 3/8 low profile, .325 standard, .325 narrow kerf, etc.


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## Jon1270 (Aug 13, 2014)

There should be a bunch of information stamped into the back end of the bar that will indicate the size chain it uses.  You may have to take the bar off of the saw to see it all.  Post the numbers you see there, or just a good pic, and we can decode it for you.


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## EMB5530 (Aug 13, 2014)

What size bar? Where did you buy it?
Most probably as already stated you have a .325 standard but who knows what you may have purchased for a replacement.
This is probably what I'm guessing you have on your saw as stock chain.
Husqvarna 531300437 16-Inch H30-66 (95VP) Pixel Saw Chain, .325-Inch by .050-Inch


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## Dennis Scott (Aug 14, 2014)

An oregon chain has a line on it showing you the angle to file.  You can sharpen a chain better an faster with a hand file.  The problem is most people don't know when to throw the file away and use a new one.


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## Bigg_Redd (Aug 14, 2014)

Dennis Scott said:


> An oregon chain has a line on it showing you the angle to file.  You can sharpen a chain better an faster with a hand file.  The problem is most people don't know when to throw the file away and use a new one.



All true - but there's more to chain filing than filing with the angle marker, like proper chain tension, and keeping the file level, and filing rakers. . .


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## David.Ervin (Aug 14, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> and filing rakers


So much the rakers!  There's a hardware store that sharpens my chains for $4.50 each, and the cutters are razor sharp but they never touch the rakers.  Sharpest knife in the world won't cut anything when it's covered up with a piece of metal.  I end up doing those with a guide plate and a dremel tool (I'm lazy), and they cut like new again.  I really ought to learn how to do the whole thing myself and be done with it...


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## Rossco (Aug 14, 2014)

I use Stihl chains as they are super hard (Hardest to sharpen as well). 

Just use the correct round file and a clip on roller gauge. Tighten the chain up beforehand. 

Push the file from the tip 5 times. Try to be parallel with the line. Never had a problem. Sometimes I file the rakers but to much will stall the chain out. It's faster to get a nice steady high RPM straight cut than having to fight a biting monster. 

Its a good idea to self sharpen. Cutting dirty downed wood will smooth the chain out in no time.


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## xman23 (Aug 17, 2014)

Berner said:


> Yes I figured it looked too easy to be effective.   Dumb question but how do I figure out what kind of chains I have?   I believe I got two with the saw and bought another one that was not necessarily the same.  Of course I discarded the box that had all the important info on it.
> 
> If it helps it has a number 25 on top of the teeth and a number 30 on the bottom.
> 
> ...


 

It's in the manual for the saw. But if it's not clear go to a dealer and they will get you the right chain and the correct file/guide. Once you understand the chain spec you should be able to buy other replacement chains. Stihi chains from all accounts are one of the best out there. So I haven't used anything but the stock chain on my saw. 

 After 10 years of replacing chains when they got dull, I got a file with a guide, and watched all the sharpening video's on you tube ( some are better than others). It's so easy. Just keep the file level. The guide shows you the correct angle. 3 strokes on each cutter,10 minutes it's like new. My chain type is sharpened with a round file, I don't recall the diameter, but make sure you are using the correct file and guide for your chain. Recently I hit a rock, I thought no problem I'll hit it with the file. No good, I guess there's a difference between normal ware and destroyed chain.


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## D8Chumley (Aug 17, 2014)

Agreed, when I rock a chain it needs to go in the electric sharpener. Otherwise I have been trying to perfect my hand filing techniques


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## Jon1270 (Aug 17, 2014)

It's possible to fix a rocked chain with a file; it's just tedious because you have to take off so much metal to get back to the undamaged part of the teeth, and even if only a couple of teeth are damaged you have to take them ALL back the same amount.  A dozen strokes each on seventy or more teeth can try one's attention span.


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## Berner (Aug 17, 2014)

Sorry guys it has been a tough week but finally got out to snap a picture of the bar and chain info.  What do you think?   Would the stock file guide from husqvarna work?  




Jon1270 said:


> There should be a bunch of information stamped into the back end of the bar that will indicate the size chain it uses.  You may have to take the bar off of the saw to see it all.  Post the numbers you see there, or just a good pic, and we can decode it for you.



.


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## Jon1270 (Aug 17, 2014)

Berner said:


> Would the stock file guide from husqvarna work?



Careful, there's no such thing as "the stock file guide."  There are different sorts of chain, and there are different guides to match.

That is 0.325"-pitch "pixel" or narrow-kerf bar.  Assuming the chain is correctly matched to the bar, this should be the right guide.


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## TreePointer (Aug 17, 2014)

.325 pitch, .050 gauge, 66 drive links (DL), narrow kerf (NK) bar

The pitch alone determines the file size you need to use.  The pitch and chain brand (mfg.) is what determines the particular file guide you _should_ use.  Can you get away with using other brands of file guide?  Yes, but many times it leads to trouble.

If you want a different chain, three things must match your bar:  *pitch*, *gauge*, and *DL*.  Yes, you can run .325 standard kerf chain in an NK bar.  In fact, I prefer to run Stihl RS (standard kerf, full chisel, non safety chain) on my Husqvarna 16" NK bar.

You can *not* run NK chain on a standard kerf bar.


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## Berner (Aug 19, 2014)

Jon1270 said:


> Careful, there's no such thing as "the stock file guide."  There are different sorts of chain, and there are different guides to match.
> 
> That is 0.325"-pitch "pixel" or narrow-kerf bar.  Assuming the chain is correctly matched to the bar, this should be the right guide.



Is there anyway to tell that the chains are the correct fit for the bar.  I am sure the stock chain is the proper fit.  But I bought another one that the sales rep picked out for me.  Not that I'm not trustworthy just more trustworthy of the knowledgable hearth.com folks.


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## Clarkbug (Aug 20, 2014)

The package should have the same information as whats on your bar, and probably says "pixel" if its narrow kerf.  Post a pic of the chain in the box and we can let you know.


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## Jon1270 (Aug 20, 2014)

If you don't have the packaging, you could look closely at both sides of the chain, including the drive links that you can see if you pull it off of the bar, to find some identifying markings. There might be a brand name, and different numbers or letters on various parts of the chain, that could give us a clue.


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## Berner (Aug 28, 2014)

Jon1270 said:


> If you don't have the packaging, you could look closely at both sides of the chain, including the drive links that you can see if you pull it off of the bar, to find some identifying markings. There might be a brand name, and different numbers or letters on various parts of the chain, that could give us a clue.



Ok I've taken the chains off and examined both.  I also found the box that I believe is the second chain I bought. 

Both chains





Top chain. Engraved with 30 and 25
	

		
			
		

		
	





Chain box. 
	

		
			
		

		
	




Back of chain box. 
	

		
			
		

		
	






The top chain has a 30 and 25 engraved on it. I assume this 30 relates to the box (H30)?   

The bottom chain only has a number 37 engraved on it.  Maybe that is the H37 that is listed on the back of the H30 box?  

The ultimate goal is to get a file kit that will fit these chains.  Would the kit mentioned above (505698190) work?    Or do these two chains need two different files kits?


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## Jon1270 (Aug 28, 2014)

Okay, the H30 (the top chain in the first pic is indeed narrow-kerf "pixel" chain, which does indeed use that sharpening guide.

The older chain, with the big honking safety bumpers, could be an H37, but I'm not personally familiar with it.  Googling around a bit suggests H37 is a standard-gauge chain requiring a different kit.

In your position I'd buy a second H30 chain (or an Oregon 95VP, which is the same stuff) and retire the old chain, rather than getting a second filing kit.


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## Jon1270 (Aug 28, 2014)

Here you go, a second H30 for just over $15 delivered.  You're unlikely to find the second filing kit for less than that anyhow.


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## Cburke (Aug 28, 2014)

Got this an haven't looked back since. Takes care of the rakers while filing the teeth as well. 
http://m.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/accessories/filing-tools/2in1file/


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## Berner (Aug 29, 2014)

Thanks Guys,  I pulled the trigger on the file kit and a new H30 chain.  Can't wait to start playing around with how to sharpen.  Youtube videos seem to be abundant on the subject.  

Cheers!


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## Berner (Sep 29, 2014)

So got my kit and am playing around with how to file the rakers.  Is it as simple as putting the gauge on the chain and running a file over the rakers?  When I put the gauge on, there seems to be some slop on how it sits on the chain.  Did anyone else run into this?  Are their other tools that are better than the husqvarna guide?


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## Clarkbug (Sep 29, 2014)

Berner said:


> So got my kit and am playing around with how to file the rakers.  Is it as simple as putting the gauge on the chain and running a file over the rakers?  When I put the gauge on, there seems to be some slop on how it sits on the chain.  Did anyone else run into this?  Are their other tools that are better than the husqvarna guide?



Posting from my phone so its hard to get a link yo copy.

Do a search for "Husqvarna guide on rakers" and you should see a few shots of how it should look.  The raker should fit in the little slot pretty well.


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## TreePointer (Sep 30, 2014)

H30 = Pixel chain = .325 pitch, narrow kerf (NK)

Husqvarna .325 Pixel (NK) filing kit = #505698190
Husqvarna .325 filing kit =  #505698194

Which kit do you have?


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## ironworker (Sep 30, 2014)

I use a Dremel with the appropriate sized sharpening stone and then a lite touch with a round file, just take your time and steady up your hand.


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## Berner (Sep 30, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> H30 = Pixel chain = .325 pitch, narrow kerf (NK)
> 
> Husqvarna .325 Pixel (NK) filing kit = #505698190
> Husqvarna .325 filing kit =  #505698194
> ...



I have the NK kit.   #505698190

This is how I believe it's supposed to sit on the chain.  Here it seems have play both back and forth and side to side.  Maybe that's how it's supposed to be?


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## Jon1270 (Oct 1, 2014)

Yes, that's the way to position it.   Side-to-side play doesn't affect the amount of the raker that protrudes above the guide.  Front-to-back play does have a tiny effect, but I doubt it's meaningful.  Keep the guide pushed down/forward against the next tooth.  It's normal to have some play, and there's no reason for it to lock in place as firmly as the roller guide does.  I think you're doing fine.


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## Berner (Oct 1, 2014)

Jon1270 said:


> Yes, that's the way to position it.   Side-to-side play doesn't affect the amount of the raker that protrudes above the guide.  Front-to-back play does have a tiny effect, but I doubt it's meaningful.  Keep the guide pushed down/forward against the next tooth.  It's normal to have some play, and there's no reason for it to lock in place as firmly as the roller guide does.  I think you're doing fine.


Sounds good.  Thanks for the advice.  It didn't feel the way I thought it would so I thought I would ask.  The real rest is when I get my grapple load in a few weeks.  Pretty excited because I have a new chain to remember exactly how it's supposed to feel and hopefully I get my old chain to be a replica.


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## jebatty (Oct 1, 2014)

Pferd makes a two file hand sharpener that dresses the raker simultaneously with sharpening the cutters. I have used this for several years and find it works well.


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## CTYank (Oct 5, 2014)

Best chain-sharpening tool I've found yet: Granberg "File-N-Joint". IMHO, makes all these other kits look like something from Rube Goldberg.

Clamps on bar. You set angles & ht. for any chain. Just different file sizes. Insert 6" flat file and do depth gauges precisely.

Been using same one for 35+ yrs.


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## Saddle Mander (Oct 6, 2014)

CTYank said:


> Best chain-sharpening tool I've found yet: Granberg "File-N-Joint". IMHO, makes all these other kits look like something from Rube Goldberg.
> 
> Clamps on bar. You set angles & ht. for any chain. Just different file sizes. Insert 6" flat file and do depth gauges precisely.
> 
> Been using same one for 35+ yrs.



I used CTYank's Granberg recently.  I am about to order one for myself. The thing is amazing. (But I hear the instructions are much worse than useless.  It's quite easy to use once you know how.  Watch some YouTube videos to learn how to use it.)  

At $25, it will pay for itself before I'm done with my second sharpening.


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## Jon1270 (Oct 6, 2014)

I prefer smaller, more easily portable sharpening jigs than the Granberg model, but I have seen one in person and I can at least say that it's impressively well-made and I'm amazed they can sell it for $25.  By contrast I picked up the Oregon version of the same sort of tool at a garage sale last year, and it was pretty terrible.


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## Jon1270 (Oct 6, 2014)

Illuminating Amazon review of the Oregon version


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## CTYank (Oct 6, 2014)

Saddle Mander said:


> I used CTYank's Granberg recently.  I am about to order one for myself. The thing is amazing. (But I hear the instructions are much worse than useless.  It's quite easy to use once you know how.  Watch some YouTube videos to learn how to use it.)
> 
> At $25, it will pay for itself before I'm done with my second sharpening.



By my count, mine has already paid for it, not to mention added bar & engine longevity. Hardly rocket science to figure it out without instructions. 

As I tried to point out on AS, in an area like yours with "topsoil" that's largely rock dust, that splashes up on down wood, you really need to be able give the chain a touch every tankful or two. Especially if it's one of those touchy full-chisel chains. Repeat after me "semi-chisel please".

You never did buy the beer, y'know. Maybe up in Ashokan on the 18th?


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## sportbikerider78 (Oct 6, 2014)

I used the Dremell chain sharpening accessory.  Works fast and seems to give good results.


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