# new daka wood burning furnace install questions



## markyrocks (Sep 13, 2015)

Hi,  I'm new.  Currently in the process of installing daka wood burning furnace.   I think it's 521b.  I got the forced draft kit as well as a separate draft inducer.

My first question is about getting my primary furnace to kick on when the daka furnace thermostat needs fulfilled.   I'm planning to place the daka thermostat next to my existing one.  Can I just add a jumper between the thermostats from green to green?  Now that I typed that it just sounds bad.  My concern would be if the fire burned out the Dstat would be calling for heat then my main stat would call and I'd have 2x 24v running to my furnace.  Idk i may just have to leave the main furnace fan run 24/7 or my other option is installing a fan limit switch in the main furnace plenum but I was hoping to avoid that for the time being.

OK so question two.
Is about the ductwork.   To simplify things and to save on cost I'm considering running one 8in round duct to the main furnace plenum.  Would this be sufficient?  My logic about this is the same amount of air will travel from daka to main plenum just would be under more pressure  and traveling 2x as fast?

Also about the materials my ducts are made of temperature ect.

So my main runs in the house are thick metal but there is like no ctc.  The manual says 6" over 1st 6'.  I know most would say follow the manual but the daka furnace  is not stock.
The stock furnace called for materials that handle 250 degrees,   with the forced draft kit the Temps in the daka warm air system should never exceed 200 degrees and there is actually 2 safety features to make sure of this.  Also I have a couple heating vents being supplied by flexible insulated pipe.  I understand the manufacturer is trying to cover there behinds but these flexible pipes are rated for 200 degree air.  I find it impossible to believe 200 degree air moving from daka to main plenum mixing with 68 degree air is actually going to leave the plenum higher than 125 -150 degrees.  Even if the volume of air from the cold air return and the daka was 1-1 it would be 134 degrees and I'm pretty sure the blower on my main furnace would beat the pants off the daka blower.  Idk.  I guess it  wouldn't be too crazy to replace them for insurance sake.   Just this project budget is already blown out the window.   Idk guys any help would be great.

Edit my house is 1000sqft.  I guess I could add heat shield to main plenum to overcome ctc requirements


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## Wisneaky (Sep 13, 2015)

most of us set our other furnace thermostat a few degrees lower than the wood furnace thermostat. I think of you hook two thermostats together it would ruin them or short out the circuits in your other furnace, but I could be wrong. I'd say follow the manufacture specs when it comes to duct work. Probably could use heat shields, but I wouldn't recommend it. I have my duct work fed into my LP furnace plenum from my wood furnace so it is okay to do, but you need a back drafter damper on the existing furnace to prevent the wood furnace from blowing down into it. One other thing you'd be surprised how high plenum temps can get with a wood furnace. I've had them up close to 200 degrees.


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## laynes69 (Sep 13, 2015)

I've boiled water droplets on ductwork from power outages, it happens. As far as the central furnace coming on to help, why? With a 1000 sqft home, the daka is likely oversized, unless it's build like swiss cheese. Just run your furnace in a parallel configuration and let the daka do the work. You'll likely find it will do the job, while 1 blower running will also help with the electric bill. Also a single 8" duct will only carry so many cfms. You don't want a reduction there, it will only aid in overheating the woodfurnace.


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## markyrocks (Sep 13, 2015)

If the fan is running in my main furnace why would I need a back draft damper? Dont see how it would be possible to back feed also i pla to use a 90 to aim the airflow upwards inside the plenum.


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## markyrocks (Sep 13, 2015)

I have backup generator,  I'm not concerned about power outage situation. I want the normal furnace fan to come on bc that's how I have it planned out.  The manual suggests it and I'm sure it will keep the ductwork cooler.


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## Wisneaky (Sep 13, 2015)

I'm with laynes69 on this. I wouldn't run both fans.


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## markyrocks (Sep 13, 2015)

Wisneaky said:


> I'm with laynes69 on this. I wouldn't run both fans.



Says right in the pic daka blower moves air to primary furnace,   primary distributes to the rest of the house.


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## Wisneaky (Sep 13, 2015)

interesting. Never seen it done that way.


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## Wisneaky (Sep 13, 2015)

Hopefully someone can chime in on how you would wire the thermostats to work together.


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## markyrocks (Sep 13, 2015)

Wisneaky said:


> Hopefully someone can chime in on how you would wire the thermostats to work together.



OK so upon further contemplation I think I have figured it out.   OK just to specify my furnace has forced draft kit so it has a thermostat that when temp drops will kick on and tell the forced draft blower to dump air on the fire,  causing it to roar up , blower in the daka kicks on and subsequently I'm trying to make my main furnace blower kick on too.

For whatever reason I kept thinking each thermostat needed it's own 24v positive or R wire coming from separate sources. (The daka has a fan control center with R,G,Y,C,W connection)  but it dawned on me 2 thermostats can share the same 24v connection and common and fan circuit as well.  So check it out its so simple I can't believe it took me so long to figure it out.

Also I want to add that most standard programmable thermostats are probably capable of doing this on one unit but since I have electric furnace, heatpump with 20kw emergency heat backup,  just too much stuff to coordinate.

Also I would like to add that the only down side to this is after the fire burns down or out the fan on the main furnace will run 24/7 until the fire is tended to or the Dstat is turned down lower than main stat.

Edit this answers my question about using one 8" duct from daka to main vs 2
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venturi_effect


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## brenndatomu (Sep 14, 2015)

Aye aye aye, where to start with this?! Hope you are paid up on your insurance because you are just _begging_ for problems!
I'm almost hesitant to try to help here because I feel like you have a couple problems that are major dis-qualifiers and you are probably not going to spend the time and/or money to fix, hope I'm wrong.

As for the tstat issue, yeah, I'll hafta think about this a liI bit, but right off the bat I'd say you need to just have two separate stats. 
As for the blower issue, I'd wire in a relay for the existing duct blower that the Daka limit switch controls, that way DLS (Daka Limit Switch) can kick on both duct blowers but not vise versa. (you will need a backdraft damper in the Daka lines to stop back feeding air when you are running the A/C or the other furnace solo) If you have central A/C then there is likely already a relay there. But I believe running the blowers together is going to cause a static pressure night mare...I'm think I'm just gonna ping @STIHLY DAN , see what he thinks about all this mess. In the mean time, I'm gonna look up your Daka manual to read up on the duct tie in your are referring to since I can't read your screen shot (too small and I can't seem to blow it up)

Anyways, one 8" duct WILL NOT work, (why do that anyways?) as was posted earlier, one 8" duct will only carry so many CFM and the real issue is, only so many BTUs, especially when the power goes out. I know you said you have a genny, but are you ALWAYS gonna be home and AWAKE when you  are burning? I think not. Therefore, your duct work needs to be big enough to safely handle gravity heating chores for an unknown period of time...which means you need to upsize or multiply the number of 8" ducts, and you _really_ need to fix that CTC issue...or at the _very least_ install an emergency heat dump. And that flex duct has gotta go, period! 
There are reasons the manual is stating to not do all these things you are trying to do...I would guess that each one of these things they mention has caused a fire(s) and possibly death(s) somewhere in the past. Kind of like the OSHA manual...I'm told each and every one of the rules in those thick manuals is "written in blood"
You said the Mfgr is just trying to cover their butts...yeah, and yours, and your family's...


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## markyrocks (Sep 14, 2015)

Yes I hear you.  I'm going do what I got to do to fix the issues.  I'm going to put in a heat sheild on the first 6 feet of main ductwork.   Kinda sux bc it goes in 2 directions.   Fixing the couple of registers that are flexible duct is not that big of a deal.   I've already invested too much to stop now.   I'm sure the thermostat setup would work.   A t stat is just a 24v switch that send signal down different paths.  Running circuit through one stat or two should make no difference.   

As far as one 8" pipe goes.  Have you ever put ur thumb on  the end of a garden hose?  The water shoots farther faster.... the water in the hose is under more pressure but the actual amount coming out of the hose over a given time period is exactly the same as if ur thumb wasn't there....


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## brenndatomu (Sep 14, 2015)

Good to hear you are willing to fix your duct CTC issues, etc.

What is the advantage of using one 8" supply duct, besides saving a couple dollars?



markyrocks said:


> Have you ever put ur thumb on the end of a garden hose?


Yep



markyrocks said:


> The water shoots farther faster....


Yep



markyrocks said:


> the water in the hose is under more pressure but the actual amount coming out of the hose over a given time period is exactly the same as if ur thumb wasn't there....


Ahh, no. When pressure goes up, volume goes down, that's a scientific fact. Look up a water (or air) pipe flow chart and play with pressures, restrictions, etc. Heck, even the smoothness of the inside of the pipe affects flow...as does how many elbows you have, degrees of the elbows, length of the line. Doesn't matter if it is water or air, the science is very similar.
Air movement in a duct is even more sensitive to pressure changes, volume changes pretty rapidly with pressure change. Restrict things too much and you'll overheat the blower motor not to mention the firebox.

You mention that the furnace is not stock...how so?

I'm almost afraid to ask, but what do you have for a chimney?


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## markyrocks (Sep 14, 2015)

I have duravent class a tripple wall chimney installed with all ctc 2".

Yes the volume does go down some but it doesn't get cut in half.

My furnace is not stock bc it doesn't come with the forced draft kit which I have.  I only say that in regards to temperature regulation.  Once the air box hits 190 the forced draft blower cuts out effectively choke fire of oxygen so it dies down.

Edit.  They sell a twin blower kit that adds a second blower using the same two 8" warm air outlets.... that kinda sounds like 1 to 1.

Edit.  The reason besides money I don't want to install 2x8" pipes is bc my daka is probably 20 ft or more away from my primary furnace and I was trying to avoid having a labyrinth of pipes running all over.  With the ctc req.  The pipes are going to be a head bonking hazard.  The extra room the other pipe would take up.  Plus I'm trying to keep it from being a major eye sore.  My basement kinda nice.  I'd like to keep it that way


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## Davej_07 (Sep 14, 2015)

Assuming that your Daka is putting out the 'normal' 550-600 cfm from the blower, you would need a 12" round duct to do the job. I agree that you should eliminate all flex as it increases friction loss 10x. 
Too small of a duct from the plenum to your main duct runs will potentially cause problems with the blower. The motor is air cooled and with that much head it would most likely get insufficient air flow for cooling.

You could get away with 2 8" ducts feeding the main.

Dave


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## brenndatomu (Sep 14, 2015)

markyrocks said:


> Yes the volume does go down some but it doesn't get cut in half.


Dang near!



markyrocks said:


> Once the air box hits 190 the forced draft blower cuts out effectively choke fire of oxygen so it dies down.


That would be the high limit switch. It is not supposed to be activated normally if everything is set up and working correctly. It's more of a last ditch safety feature to keep you from testing your insurance policy.

Hey, this is your home and your party...sounds like you are in for "some school of hard knocks" edumacation.
No worries though, no hard feelings here, when you wanna make it work right, come on back, we'll help ya sort it out.


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## brenndatomu (Sep 14, 2015)

Davej_07 said:


> You could get away with 2 8" ducts feeding the main.


Winner winner chicken dinner for the new guy! (That's why the furnace has two 8" duct connections on top...but don't tell marky that) Welcome Dave!
Oh, guess I never said welcome to Marky...welcome to hearth marky!


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## Davej_07 (Sep 14, 2015)

brenndatomu said:


> Winner winner chicken dinner for the new guy! (That's why the furnace has two 8" duct connections on top...but don't tell marky that) Welcome Dave!
> Oh, guess I never said welcome to Marky...welcome to hearth marky!



22 years as a sheet metal worker so this was no biggie to me
I've been a lurker here for a long time but I finally decided to chime in on something.

Dave


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## brenndatomu (Sep 14, 2015)

Here is the manual for this machine if anybody wants to read along. https://store.dakacorp.com/v/vspfiles/documents/DAKA_521FB_Furnace_Manual_BW_7-15.pdf
Like @Wisneaky  said, never seen a duct tie in/blower set up like this before...


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## markyrocks (Sep 14, 2015)

brenndatomu said:


> Here is the manual for this machine if anybody wants to read along. https://store.dakacorp.com/v/vspfiles/documents/DAKA_521FB_Furnace_Manual_BW_7-15.pdf
> Like @Wisneaky  said, never seen a duct tie in/blower set up like this before...


How is it normally done?  

Ok So heat sheild check,  replace flex pipe check, as much as I don't wanna, I'll use 2x 8" pipe check.  

Has anyone looked at the thermostat plan? Thoughts opinions?


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## brenndatomu (Sep 14, 2015)

markyrocks said:


> How is it normally done?


Most furnaces don't use the blower of the primary furnace, just the wood furnace blower. Then you have to install a damper so as to not back
feed the primary furnace.
I'm thinking the extra cool air is going to dilute the warm air from the Daka too much, but hey Daka is calling for that, so gotta try that first I suppose


markyrocks said:


> Ok So heat sheild check, replace flex pipe check, as much as I don't wanna, I'll use 2x 8" pipe check.


 Perfect! What was the aversion to using two 8" supply lines anyways?

As for the thermostat, like I said before, the Daka will need its own tstat to control the combustion fan. Controlling the duct fan is a whole separate issue. Daka seems to allude to the primary furnace fan kicking on after its limit switch warms due to backfeeding, but I think that will just lead to a lot of cycling on/off of the blower. I'd wire from the fan control switch of the Daka to the relay of the primary furnace blower so that they both engage when the Daka blower comes on.


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## markyrocks (Sep 14, 2015)

brenndatomu said:


> Most furnaces don't use the blower of the primary furnace, just the wood furnace blower. Then you have to install a damper so as to not back
> feed the primary furnace.
> I'm thinking the extra cool air is going to dilute the warm air from the Daka too much, but hey Daka is calling for that, so gotta try that first I suppose
> Perfect! What was the aversion to using two 8" supply lines anyways?
> ...



As far as the daka duct blower I'm going to leave that to function as its designed.  I don't see any benefit of messing with it.  I may add a second fan limit switch in the daka that have to be set


brenndatomu said:


> Most furnaces don't use the blower of the primary furnace, just the wood furnace blower. Then you have to install a damper so as to not back
> feed the primary furnace.
> I'm thinking the extra cool air is going to dilute the warm air from the Daka too much, but hey Daka is calling for that, so gotta try that first I suppose
> Perfect! What was the aversion to using two 8" supply lines anyways?
> ...



Like I said before not trying to turn my basement into a labyrinth of pipes.  I spend alot of time down there didn't want to be hitting my head all the time off of them.  But whatever I'll do what I got 2 do.  

The "diluted "  extra cold air is circulating from the living space of the house.   I'd assume this is how any regular gas or oil furnace works. Just taking cooler air from house , heating it up, then redistributing it.  I'd like to hook the daka filter box into the cold return but idk if I'm going to be able to get to that.  Been working 6-7 days a week.   Trying to get this thing operational by winter.


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## STIHLY DAN (Sep 14, 2015)

Thanks @brenndatomu, by the way can I/we just call you tom? Its much shorter and easier to spell. Marky, no need to worry about hitting your head on pipes because your situation will not work. I suggest you call Daka and ask them about your plans. I think in your situation your only choice is to run your unit as a stand alone. There is no way 20 ft away from supply plenum is ok. Also at only 1,000 sq ft this would be the best anyhow.


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## markyrocks (Sep 14, 2015)

STIHLY DAN said:


> Thanks @brenndatomu, by the way can I/we just call you tom? Its much shorter and easier to spell. Marky, no need to worry about hitting your head on pipes because your situation will not work. I suggest you call Daka and ask them about your plans. I think in your situation your only choice is to run your unit as a stand alone. There is no way 20 ft away from supply plenum is ok. Also at only 1,000 sq ft this would be the best anyhow.


.

I chose my placement to have the shortest run of chimney to outside of the house. 

Why exactly would you say this would not work?   As long as I maintain proper ctc really don't see what the problem would be.   it's 7 ft from floor to bottom of the joists.  I just measured tonight and even maintaining 6" from joist I can still walk under without hitting


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## STIHLY DAN (Sep 14, 2015)

If you look at the instructions it shows the Daka next to the furnace. This is for 2 reasons, for the furnace fan help pull a venture effect on the daka, also so when power goes out the unit dumps right into the plenum and up the duct work. A 20 ft run of the daka to a plenum will not allow this to happen. Especially when not tied into the same return plenum.
P.S there is a reason Daka states in the manual to have a professional with experience with solid fuel units to o the install. These are more difficult with a different set of rules than installing a conventional unit. Much more dangerous as well.


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## markyrocks (Sep 14, 2015)

STIHLY DAN said:


> If you look at the instructions it shows the Daka next to the furnace. This is for 2 reasons, for the furnace fan help pull a venture effect on the daka, also so when power goes out the unit dumps right into the plenum and up the duct work. A 20 ft run of the daka to a plenum will not allow this to happen. Especially when not tied into the same return plenum.
> P.S there is a reason Daka states in the manual to have a professional with experience with solid fuel units to o the install. These are more difficult with a different set of rules than installing a conventional unit. Much more dangerous as well.


Well as I said before I have a backup generator with a manual transfer switch that lights up my whole house if power is out.  

Most here are saying that the daka blower will supply there whole house through ductwork runs I'm sure are longer than 20 ft and most not even using the blower on there main furnace and now you're saying that somehow the daka blower can't push the air 20ft across my basement to the main furnace where it can take over from there?

Ya your right I definitely think I should of called hvac company and had them do this so they could charge me 10 grand so at that point would completely negate any potential savings I'd get from burning wood for the next ten years. ..... you sound like an hvac tech.  I'd be shocked if I didn't get a bill for your last 2 comments


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## brenndatomu (Sep 14, 2015)

STIHLY DAN said:


> by the way can I/we just call you tom?


Ha! Yeah, probably not the easiest user name to spell. Call me Tom if you'd like...most call me Dave though


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## Wisneaky (Sep 14, 2015)

markyrocks said:


> Well as I said before I have a backup generator with a manual transfer switch that lights up my whole house if power is out.
> 
> Most here are saying that the daka blower will supply there whole house through ductwork runs I'm sure are longer than 20 ft and most not even using the blower on there main furnace and now you're saying that somehow the daka blower can't push the air 20ft across my basement to the main furnace where it can take over from there?
> 
> Ya your right I definitely think I should of called hvac company and had them do this so they could charge me 10 grand so at that point would completely negate any potential savings I'd get from burning wood for the next ten years. ..... you sound like an hvac tech.  I'd be shocked if I didn't get a bill for your last 2 comments


So what happens when you not at home and the power goes out? The heat will stay in the wood furnace. It will overheat. Than you can say goodbye to your house. It doesn't cost 10k to have someone install it for you. Your probably just better off selling the daka and trying to get your money back.


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## Wisneaky (Sep 14, 2015)

brenndatomu said:


> Ha! Yeah, probably not the easiest user name to spell. Call me Tom if you'd like...most call me Dave though



How's it going Tom


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## brenndatomu (Sep 14, 2015)

markyrocks said:


> Most here are saying that the daka blower will supply there whole house through ductwork runs I'm sure are longer than 20 ft and most not even using the blower on there main furnace and now you're saying that somehow the daka blower can't push the air 20ft across my basement to the main furnace where it can take over from there?


That distance isn't so much a problem when the power is on as when the power goes down. I know you said you have genny, but you won't always be there or awake when power goes down. Things go bad quickly when you have furnace with a belly full of fire and no cooling to it. There is a reason most insurance companys charge a premium for wood burners...DIY install of what some consider to be the most dangerous heating method. Also the reason many ins co require pro install.
As I mentioned before, I'd put a heat dump on the supply side. Probably have to put a plenum on the Daka to do this...that would get you past this obstacle though.



markyrocks said:


> I'd be shocked if I didn't get a bill for your last 2 comments


 Oh you gettin a bill now! 


Wisneaky said:


> How's it going Tom



Finer than frog hairs!


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## markyrocks (Sep 14, 2015)

Wisneaky said:


> So what happens when you not at home and the power goes out? The heat will stay in the wood furnace. It will overheat. Than you can say goodbye to your house. It doesn't cost 10k to have someone install it for you. Your probably just better off selling the daka and trying to get your money back.



For one there is someone here 24/7 me and wife work opposite shifts... 2.  I really have no intention of using this if we're not going to be home.  3.  My power has literally gone out 1 time for more than 5 minutes in the past two years.  4.  I have forced draft kit so if the power goes out and there's no one here the fire is going to have about enough oxygen to stay lit....  am I leaving anything else out.  O my furnace broke needed replaced in june.  I got quoted at 7k for replacement air handler and compressor.  So you think installing this with the chimney and all this extra ductwork and bs wouldn't cost 10k?  Lol you must live in a fantasy


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## Wisneaky (Sep 14, 2015)

markyrocks said:


> For one there is someone here 24/7 me and wife work opposite shifts... 2.  I really have no intention of using this if we're not going to be home.  3.  My power has literally gone out 1 time for more than 5 minutes in the past two years.  4.  I have forced draft kit so if the power goes out and there's no one here the fire is going to have about enough oxygen to stay lit....  am I leaving anything else out.  O my furnace broke needed replaced in june.  I got quoted at 7k for replacement air handler and compressor.  So you think installing this with the chimney and all this extra ductwork and bs wouldn't cost 10k?  Lol you must live in a fantasy


You should learn how the force draft works. The force draft only kicks on when it calls for heat. It still sucks air in to feed the fire no matter if there is power or not. The force draft is a blower for "extra" needed air. It doesn't magically put out the fire when its not on.


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## brenndatomu (Sep 14, 2015)

markyrocks said:


> I got quoted at 7k for replacement air handler and compressor


Wow, you must be livin UPtown! My HVAC guy will do gas furnace/central air replacement for $5k total



markyrocks said:


> I have forced draft kit so if the power goes out and there's no one here the fire is going to have about enough oxygen to stay lit....


What you have to understand is once the fan gets the fire stoked up (it takes some time to build up) you have 5 or 600 #s of steel/brick that will take some time to cool down, _even with_ the duct blower running.
Once the tstat is satisfied and the combustion fan shuts off (same as power fail in your example) the duct blower can still run for quite a while sometimes.
Even when the combustion fan is not running, the furnace is still making heat and the duct blower will need to run occasionally.


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## Wisneaky (Sep 14, 2015)

my force draft only turns on when the stove is first fired up and at the end of the burn cycle 12 hours or so later when my house is cooling down and the fire is almost burnt completely out.


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## markyrocks (Sep 14, 2015)

Wisneaky said:


> my force draft only turns on when the stove is first fired up and at the end of the burn cycle 12 hours or so later when my house is cooling down and the fire is almost burnt completely out.


Well I haven't personally seen it in action yet.  Umm the manual describes at kicking on to fulfill thermostat then off  and "the fire returns to a maintenance level" .  I assume that the amount of oxygen it allows in while not on would be twards the lower side... sure it's not going to automatically put the fire out but starving it of oxygen would slow it down for sure..


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## Davej_07 (Sep 14, 2015)

All I can say, Mark, is best of luck. You came looking for insight and suggestions and they've been aplenty. You seem to have your own answers to everything so go ahead with the single 8" run, no proper return, etc. Just for the record, I AM an HVAC guy.

Dave


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## markyrocks (Sep 14, 2015)

Davej_07 said:


> All I can say, Mark, is best of luck. You came looking for insight and suggestions and they've been aplenty. You seem to have your own answers to everything so go ahead with the single 8" run, no proper return, etc. Just for the record, I AM an HVAC guy.
> Dave



Good bc now I know your opinion is worthless. beat it


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## markyrocks (Sep 14, 2015)

You all are talking about a run to the plenum,   how do you feel about this guy's setup?


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## Wisneaky (Sep 14, 2015)

markyrocks said:


> You all are talking about a run to the plenum,   how do you feel about this guy's setup?



his looks okay. You'd be better off doing that then running it 20' into your other plenum.


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## markyrocks (Sep 14, 2015)

This guy is only using one 8" air outlet....
You all wonder where I'm getting these ideas....


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## markyrocks (Sep 14, 2015)

Wisneaky said:


> his looks okay. You'd be better off doing that then running it 20' into your other plenum.


What would be the difference. ....


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## Wisneaky (Sep 14, 2015)

markyrocks said:


> Good bc now I know your opinion is worthless. beat it


now now. You really should be nice. You came here asking for help. Act that way and no one will help.


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## Wisneaky (Sep 14, 2015)

markyrocks said:


> What would be the difference. ....


it flows upstairs at an upward angle. Not 20' over to a plenum than plus how ever long your duct trunk is than plus the extra feet for your runs upstairs.


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## Wisneaky (Sep 14, 2015)

markyrocks said:


> This guy is only using one 8" air outlet....
> You all wonder where I'm getting these ideas....



you see all that white burnt off paint on the front of his? That from over firing.


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## markyrocks (Sep 14, 2015)

Wisneaky said:


> it flows upstairs at an upward angle. Not 20' over to a plenum than plus how ever long your duct trunk is than plus the extra feet for your runs upstairs.


So would it be ok if it ran to the other plenum at an upwards angle?  I'm not concerned about the heat reaching the living space in regards to this issue I'm more concerned with the safety side of it.


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## markyrocks (Sep 14, 2015)

Wisneaky said:


> you see all that white burnt off paint on the front of his? That from over firing.


I believe that's from over loading the stove.  I'm not saying it's right but dudes house still standing. ...


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## markyrocks (Sep 14, 2015)

This guy has a perfect install and paint on his is burnt off too


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## Wisneaky (Sep 14, 2015)

markyrocks said:


> I believe that's from over loading the stove.  I'm not saying it's right but dudes house still standing. ...


it's from over firing. More than likely also contributed from only using one of the outlets which is causing excess heat buildup.


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## brenndatomu (Sep 15, 2015)

markyrocks said:


> I believe that's from over loading the stove.  I'm not saying it's right but dudes house still standing. ...


Ever hear the saying "don't drive faster than your guardian angel can fly"? ...means don't push your luck.
Any time you see a white area where the firebox is...the unit has been run HARD, REAL HARD! Things like improper install contribute too that. power outage over heat, auto draft sticking, improper chimney setup overdrafting...the list goes on. I GARANTEE you those units have severly comprimised lifespan now...so much for saving money when you hafta buy a new furnace every two years. Same people that grumble about POS Daka stove, go buy a different brand...rinse and repeat.  


markyrocks said:


> Good bc now I know your opinion is worthless. beat it


So now any pro is an idiot? How would you feel about driving to work over bridges designed/built by a DIYer like yourself?
Keep up with comments like that and not only do you get no help, won't take long the mods will have you banned...


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## maple1 (Sep 15, 2015)

You need to make two phone calls and clearly & fully run your ideas past the people on the other end of the phone & see what they have to say about it.

First call would be to your house insurance person.

Second call would be to Daka.

Chances are you will come out of those calls saying their opinions are worthless also...


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## markyrocks (Sep 15, 2015)

Geez I tell one guy I don't value his opinion people want to get all teary eyed about it.  I thought this forum had mountain men on it not a bunch of boy scouts.  Dude got snippy with me first.  I've been banned many places not to concerned.  

I'm far from a diy.  I've been working in construction for over 10 years,  I remodel houses,  build custom bathrooms ect.  I can read the manual the rules are pretty well laid out.  I installed the replacement furnace and heat pump 2 months ago so I'm sure I'll be fine.


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## JRHAWK9 (Sep 15, 2015)

: popcorn :


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## Wisneaky (Sep 15, 2015)

I think we should just wait and see "if" anyone chimes in with an answer that you want to listen to. Really what do we know about heating with wood anyway. Not like we spent countless hours installing our own and figuring out how they work and hundred of hours on here and other forums each year trying to help each other out.

You've been banned many places. You ever think that your the problem? Places don't go around banning people just for the fun of it.

As for you being far from a dyi. I'd hate to be the one who owns anything you work on. You clearly don't know how to follow codes or instructions.


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## STIHLY DAN (Sep 15, 2015)

markyrocks said:


> This guy has a perfect install and paint on his is burnt off too




Not 1 video was a good install, forget about perfect. None of these even followed the few rules in the Daka installation manual. But from the looks of the videos, it does seem to be your type of crowd.


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## markyrocks (Sep 15, 2015)

STIHLY DAN said:


> Not 1 video was a good install, forget about perfect. None of these even followed the few rules in the Daka installation manual. But from the looks of the videos, it does seem to be your type of crowd.



There's very few videos on this specific model available.  All I did was watch them I didn't make them. ... I assumed the setups in the video were kosher. 

Your boy Wisneaky gave that video stamp of approval


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## Wisneaky (Sep 15, 2015)

Approved by Wisneaky. That could be catchy. That's the first good idea you've had this whole thread.

Anyone want to make me a stamper that says that?


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## markyrocks (Sep 15, 2015)

Wisneaky said:


> I think we should just wait and see "if" anyone chimes in with an answer that you want to listen to. Really what do we know about heating with wood anyway. Not like we spent countless hours installing our own and figuring out how they work and hundred of hours on here and other forums each year trying to help each other out.
> 
> You've been banned many places. You ever think that your the problem? Places don't go around banning people just for the fun of it.
> 
> As for you being far from a dyi. I'd hate to be the one who owns anything you work on. You clearly don't know how to follow codes or instructions.



This is the bathroom I finished yesterday.

The last pic is of a floor I did last weekend


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## markyrocks (Sep 15, 2015)

Ya but Noone wants work like that... pssshhh


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## brenndatomu (Sep 15, 2015)

markyrocks said:


> All I did was watch them I didn't make them. ... I assumed the setups in the video were kosher.


Boy, I bet your parents had a time with you as a kid! 


markyrocks said:


> Your boy Wisneaky gave that video stamp of approval


Yeah, but it's all relative. Compared to what you had planned those setups were kosher


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## Wisneaky (Sep 15, 2015)

markyrocks said:


> This is the bathroom I finished yesterday.
> 
> The last pic is of a floor I did last weekend
> 
> ...


Are those shower walls and ceiling regular drywall?


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## markyrocks (Sep 15, 2015)

Wisneaky said:


> Are those shower walls and ceiling regular drywall?



Umm I didn't touch the ceiling but it's tile,  so flat and smooth it probably looks like drywall if you don't click on it


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## Wisneaky (Sep 15, 2015)

brenndatomu said:


> Boy, I bet your parents had a time with you as a kid!
> Yeah, but it's all relative. Compared to what you had planned those setups were kosher


I only agree the first one is kosher. Second one has all sorts of issues like only one duct, no clearance to combustibles.


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## Wisneaky (Sep 15, 2015)

markyrocks said:


> Umm I didn't touch the ceiling but it's tile,  so flat and smooth it probably looks like drywall if you don't click on it


What is behind the tile, regular drywall it looks like? Regular drywall isn't to be used behind a bathroom shower even if there is tile over it.


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## markyrocks (Sep 15, 2015)

Wisneaky said:


> I only agree the first one is kosher. Second one has all sorts of issues like only one duct, no clearance to combustibles.


Well the first had a wall to the right Which was definitely too close to be legal.   So maybe you just don't know what you're talking about


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## markyrocks (Sep 15, 2015)

Wisneaky said:


> What is behind the tile, regular drywall it looks like? Regular drywall isn't to be used behind a bathroom shower even if there is tile over it.


Ya you must have xray vision.   Hardi backer in wet areas.  I been building showers for over ten years I got it covered slick


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## Wisneaky (Sep 15, 2015)

markyrocks said:


> Ya you must have xray vision.   Hardi backer in wet areas.  I been building showers for over ten years I got it covered slick


If you look at the cutout in the ceiling it looks like regular drywall.


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## Wisneaky (Sep 15, 2015)

markyrocks said:


> Well the first had a wall to the right Which was definitely too close to be legal.   So maybe you just don't know what you're talking about


Good catch on that one.


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## maple1 (Sep 15, 2015)

What does building a shower have to do with installing a furnace?


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## Wisneaky (Sep 15, 2015)

maple1 said:


> What does building a shower have to do with installing a furnace?


Competence. 

Your the one who posted the pictures of the bathroom not me.


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## markyrocks (Sep 15, 2015)

Wisneaky said:


> If you look at the cutout in the ceiling it looks like regular drywall.


It is.... pretty standard.  I didn't install the ceiling ummm the  contractor said no ceiling.  Out of the 50 or so showers I've done in the past year maybe 2 had a tiled ceiling the rest painted drywall. .... here's one that is tiled


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## maple1 (Sep 15, 2015)

Wisneaky said:


> Competence.
> 
> Your the one who posted the pictures of the bathroom not me.



I didn't post pics?


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## markyrocks (Sep 15, 2015)

maple1 said:


> What does building a shower have to do with installing a furnace?


Dude said something about not wanting work I do or something.   It also has to do with I'm a pro and not an everyday diy homowner. Obviously were way off track,  just pissing now


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## BrotherBart (Sep 15, 2015)




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