# Country comfort maintenance?



## tjcole50 (Oct 19, 2013)

I just want to make sure my upstairs wood stove is safe and good to go this year. I have included some pics and wondered what the experts here thought should be kept up with, watched, or repaired. Thank you again everyone! Make and model are country condor cc325. I thought the oval shaped bent pipe looked odd or is that normal install equipment for an insert?


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## webbie (Oct 20, 2013)

I remember that thing used a very wide and thin oval pipe.....the real question there is whether it drafts properly.

If you don't already have a block-off plate, you should fabricate and install one. 
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/making_a_block_off_plate/

Other than that, check the firebox for cracks and stuff like that. The blower probably needs cleaned out from dust, etc.....the big thing is whether it drafts and burns well when all is said and done. Of course, you should have a smoke and CO detector in the room just in case it leaks, etc.


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## tjcole50 (Oct 20, 2013)

Drafts great! Gets a roaring fire . Slight smoke back at you when building but I think that's normal. That oval pipe is monster in length since it was originally an open fireplace. I will look at link provided thank you ! Forgot to add. With that oval pipe it has some bends to reach the tile flue. Now with that rectangular plate which the oval pipe passes through on its way up, I'm curious on a new stove install. Let's say in a few years I want a different stove in there? With a top circle exit how would that be fabricated? I know I can run strihht up with the design of the fireplace brick


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## webbie (Oct 20, 2013)

Most newer stoves use a similar method but not as ovalized. That is, a flexible tube is used for the bottom 6 to 10 feet (most never stoves are lined to the top of the chimney) and it is flattened to go through the damper and then brought back to round to push into an adapted on top of the insert.

The sheet metal plate, if you make one, usually fits way down from the damper as shown in that article.


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## tjcole50 (Oct 20, 2013)

webbie said:


> Most newer stoves use a similar method but not as ovalized. That is, a flexible tube is used for the bottom 6 to 10 feet (most never stoves are lined to the top of the chimney) and it is flattened to go through the damper and then brought back to round to push into an adapted on top of the insert.
> 
> The sheet metal plate, if you make one, usually fits way down from the damper as shown in that article.


So you don't see foreseeable issues with an upgrade down the road? Haven't looked at block off article but damper on mine is right on top of firebox?


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## webbie (Oct 20, 2013)

No issues - once you remove that unit, it'll be like any new installation.....IMHO. Some people go all out and grind or cut away some of the damper frame, but you can find oval pipe to fit it also. Keep in mind that most new units use 6" whereas that thing used the equiv. of 10" or something like that!


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## Heatsource (Oct 21, 2013)

tjcole50 said:


> Drafts great! Gets a roaring fire . Slight smoke back at you when building but I think that's normal. That oval pipe is monster in length since it was originally an open fireplace. I will look at link provided thank you ! Forgot to add. With that oval pipe it has some bends to reach the tile flue. Now with that rectangular plate which the oval pipe passes through on its way up, I'm curious on a new stove install. Let's say in a few years I want a different stove in there? With a top circle exit how would that be fabricated? I know I can run strihht up with the design of the fireplace brick



that "roaring fire" has badly warped the baffle, time to replace it, and figure out why the unit is overfiring!
(leaky door or glass gaskets?- burning too much wood w/air control wide open?, etc)

99% sure the company is out of the game, probably need to have a baffle fabricated...


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## tjcole50 (Oct 25, 2013)

A1Stoves.com said:


> that "roaring fire" has badly warped the baffle, time to replace it, and figure out why the unit is overfiring!
> (leaky door or glass gaskets?- burning too much wood w/air control wide open?, etc)
> 
> 99% sure the company is out of the game, probably need to have a baffle fabricated...


Found my manual lol! By baffle you mean the cat?


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## tjcole50 (Oct 25, 2013)

Also the combustion control inlets located on the sides should be closed I'm guessing once at full burn?


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## mellow (Oct 25, 2013)

tjcole50 said:


> Also the combustion control inlets located on the sides should be closed I'm guessing once at full burn?



You might need to have them cracked a bit,  but once you get the cat up to temp and dial it down a few times you will get a feel for where to put the air inlets at.  Your door gaskets do look like they need to be swapped out with new ones,  those double doors tend to leak air more than a single door.  I would do the dollar bill test on them.

Do you have a picture of the condition of the cat?


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## mellow (Oct 25, 2013)

You have what is called a direct connect on that liner,  it does not go all the way up.






You NEED to put in a block off plate.


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## mellow (Oct 25, 2013)

Baffle is the housing that holds the cat, it looks pretty warped.


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## Heatsource (Oct 25, 2013)

i thought those were non cat units.
note the secondary burn tube.....


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## mellow (Oct 25, 2013)

Condar sells a cat for the cc325,  maybe it is a hybrid?


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## tjcole50 (Oct 25, 2013)

Got me all confused now boys! Now I know I need to put In a block off plate but what else? I mean this thing is currently heating my house. We are getting propane come December but I do not want to have my stove out of commision very long. Also I noticed my dampenr giving me a headache like it gets stuck not wanting to open/close fully at times


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## tjcole50 (Oct 25, 2013)

Also that flexible section that kinks up to reach the clay flue, is that a common setup or should a future newer insert be  re worked to accommodate a straight 6" pipe to meet the clay? Thanks again


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## mellow (Oct 28, 2013)

No one uses that style liner anymore, all new stoves will require a 6" round liner that goes all the way up to the top, don't stop at the first tile as it is much easier to clean if you go all the way to the top and you will get better draft.


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## Koobiluphi (Jan 5, 2014)

tjcole50 said:


> Found my manual lol! By baffle you mean the cat?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Can you please send me a PDF of your manual? I've desperately been trying to find a copy.


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## zhank (Jun 6, 2014)

tjcole50 said:


> Found my manual lol! By baffle you mean the cat?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


would it be possible for you to send me a PDF copy of your fireplace manual?


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## Squeaky_6 (Oct 22, 2014)

Hello All! Been reading a lot on this site! Thanks for all the info. I have a country Comfort 350, just picked it up for 300.00, good deal? I now looked at a new cat! Spendy but seems worth it.

My real question is the oval opening...I have a six inch chimney liner. Is this big enough, once I make an adapter for this stove, or do I have to use an 8inch chimney liner? any advice would be appreciated! The opening on the adapter plate, is 5-7/8x9-1/4.
Could I take the old adapter plate off and use a new round adapter plate or will that cause me trouble?

Anyone have experience painting these stoves? I would like to touch mine up and paint it black!

Thank You in advance!
-Troy


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