# Husqvarna chainsaw running sluggish ("bogging?")



## Kosmonauts (Feb 24, 2016)

hey,

  I have a fairly new husqvarna, just a 240, but i take good care of her and always keep chains sharp.  I've been having an issue when I throttle with the saw running pretty sluggish and not wanting to throttle like it should be.  I believe this is called bogging?  I am fairly new to the whole wood thing and this is the first issue of this kind that I have encountered.  I feel like the saw may not be properly getting fuel.  Any help is appreciated!  thanks!

Joe


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Feb 24, 2016)

This is not uncommon for the 240.  My father in law had one and it did the same thing.  Not meant to offend at all but that saw is so small and meant for such minor trimming jobs that it just has a history of not performing well.  My power equipment dealer doesn't even sell it because of that.  

Are you using pre-mixed fuel or are you mixing the fuel yourself?


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## 7acres (Feb 24, 2016)

I run a tiny Stihl MS150. Last season (the first) it ran like a champ. This season I had terrible bogging when throttle was applied. The issue turned out to be very simple. There is a fine screen over the exhaust called a spark arrestor. After a year of use the thing was completely fouled up. The exhaust was back pressuring it was so clogged with exhaust grime.

I removed the spark arrestor and boom! The saw was back to it's old self. The state I live in has no laws against running with no arrester. Plus I'm not doing this professionally anyway. So I'd recommend looking at your spark arrestor. If it's all fouled up remove it and your problem will likely be resolved!


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## Kosmonauts (Feb 24, 2016)

Yea no offense taken I didn't realize how small of a saw it was until I started cutting bigger locust trees and other hardwoods...have to look into getting a bigger one.


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## Kosmonauts (Feb 24, 2016)

7acres said:


> I run a tiny Stihl MS150. Last season (the first) it ran like a champ. This season I had terrible bogging when throttle was applied. The issue turned out to be very simple. There is a fine screen over the exhaust called a spark arrestor. After a year of use the thing was completely fouled up. The exhaust was back pressuring it was so clogged with exhaust grime.
> 
> I removed the spark arrestor and boom! The saw was back to it's old self. The state I live in has no laws against running with no arrester. Plus I'm not doing this professionally anyway. So I'd recommend looking at your spark arrestor. If it's all fouled up remove it and your problem will likely be resolved!


I actually had a thought in the back of my mind that it's not venting properly so I'm happy to hear you say this!  I'm gonna take it apart and clean her up and hopefully she comes back to life.


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## Kosmonauts (Feb 25, 2016)

CentralVAWoodHeat said:


> This is not uncommon for the 240.  My father in law had one and it did the same thing.  Not meant to offend at all but that saw is so small and meant for such minor trimming jobs that it just has a history of not performing well.  My power equipment dealer doesn't even sell it because of that.
> 
> Are you using pre-mixed fuel or are you mixing the fuel yourself?


Using the pre mixed husqvarna...I don't think it's the fuel I just think maybe I'm pushing it to hard...maybe the 400 series is better for what I'm doing


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Feb 25, 2016)

Kosmonauts said:


> Using the pre mixed husqvarna...I don't think it's the fuel I just think maybe I'm pushing it to hard...maybe the 400 series is better for what I'm doing


Sounds good.  I just wanted to make sure because mixing fuel is very a very precise process and inaccuracy can seriously affect your saw's behavior.  Folks just starting out sometimes don't realize how important it is to mix with accuracy down to the ounce.  Using their pre-mixed fuel is a good way to get started and then, if you want to in the future, try mixing your own fuel.  However, if you don't use a lot of fuel, I would recommend just sticking with pre-mixed as your fuel will just sit and get stale otherwise.  

On the plus side though, now you have a small saw for limbing and small jobs. I currently have two Husqvarna saws, the 455 Rancher which is what they consider a 'landowner' saw and a 390XP which is a professional saw.  It sounds like you are right to look into the 400 series saws but I would not recommend under buying again.  If you feel like you can effectively handle the 455 Rancher, I would say buy that one and call it a day.  You'll have one of their best overall saws for the dollar.  Very few folks need a professional saw, especially if you are just cutting firewood.


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## Kosmonauts (Feb 25, 2016)

CentralVAWoodHeat said:


> Sounds good.  I just wanted to make sure because mixing fuel is very a very precise process and inaccuracy can seriously affect your saw's behavior.  Folks just starting out sometimes don't realize how important it is to mix with accuracy down to the ounce.  Using their pre-mixed fuel is a good way to get started and then, if you want to in the future, try mixing your own fuel.  However, if you don't use a lot of fuel, I would recommend just sticking with pre-mixed as your fuel will just sit and get stale otherwise.
> 
> On the plus side though, now you have a small saw for limbing and small jobs. I currently have two Husqvarna saws, the 455 Rancher which is what they consider a 'landowner' saw and a 390XP which is a professional saw.  It sounds like you are right to look into the 400 series saws but I would not recommend under buying again.  If you feel like you can effectively handle the 455 Rancher, I would say buy that one and call it a day.  You'll have one of their best overall saws for the dollar.  Very few folks need a professional saw, especially if you are just cutting firewood.


Thank you big time!  Probably gonna go tomorrow and pick one up if I can scrounge up the loot.  Definetely not going to under buy I think I learned that lesson.  Also I have a lot of hardwoods like black locust to cut, so I think that adaquate power is necessary, especially if I plan on heating my home. Thanks again...you guys are great!


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## 7acres (Feb 25, 2016)

Initially I bought a landowner saw. Used it and always felt it wasn't ever going to be a go getter. It got stolen. From then I purchased pro saws. It cost more but when I'm working they perform so well I never regret the spend. 

I am so jaded by the thieves I practically sleep with them now. I love my 362 and 150! When it's time to cut my saws never disappoint!


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## black_sab (Feb 25, 2016)

I have the same saw... it's at best a limb trimmer. I once bucked a bunch of maple logs with it. Only way it was even remotely doable was to keep the chain uber-sharp at all times.

btw... I just jumped from a 240 to a 372xp. The difference is insane. dump that 240 and buy a pro saw!


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Feb 26, 2016)

I love my 390XP guys but let's slow down a bit.  Going from a 240 being the only saw he has used (if that is the case) to a pro saw may be a bit dangerous.  

Kosmonauts-pro saws produce a serious amount of torque and chain speed.  There is also a weight penalty and the cost of upkeep is way higher.  Initial purchase price is also, of course, way higher.  I would not recommend jumping into a pro saw if the 240 has been your only saw experience.  I think you are correct to look into the 400 line as a next step.


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## 7acres (Feb 26, 2016)

CentralVAWoodHeat said:


> I love my 390XP guys but let's slow down a bit.  Going from a 240 being the only saw he has used (if that is the case) to a pro saw may be a bit dangerous.
> 
> Kosmonauts-pro saws produce a serious amount of torque and chain speed.  There is also a weight penalty and the cost of upkeep is way higher.  Initial purchase price is also, of course, way higher.  I would not recommend jumping into a pro saw if the 240 has been your only saw experience.  I think you are correct to look into the 400 line as a next step.



Safety is always paramount. Not disagreeing there. But one area a pro saw will delight you is the anti-vibe. If you're felling, limbing and bucking for 2-4 hours straight your hands & wrists will not be tingling from the vibration the whole time. I went from a MS290 (non-pro) to a MS362 (pro) and the safety factor seemed to be no different. Actually it ran so nicely my impression was that it was a safer experience.

If you're scrounging a few cords every year you need a strong main saw. I learned on my MS290. For instance a sharp chain with properly filed rakers is 90% of the equation. Learning how to hand sharpen in the field is key to being able to finish the day out strong. And always watching and looking for dirt will keep you sharp for a long time. But when it was stolen I was glad to have an excuse to start fresh with pro saws. Every time I'm out running them I always return home so happy with the performance. 

When you're tearing through a 30" trunk with thick chips flying out like a firehose and your saw is dropping through fast and not bogging there's a sense of awe it inspires!


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## saskwoodburner (Feb 26, 2016)

Kosmonauts said:


> hey,
> 
> I have a fairly new husqvarna, just a 240, but i take good care of her and always keep chains sharp.  I've been having an issue when I throttle with the saw running pretty sluggish and not wanting to throttle like it should be.  I believe this is called bogging?  I am fairly new to the whole wood thing and this is the first issue of this kind that I have encountered.  I feel like the saw may not be properly getting fuel.  Any help is appreciated!  thanks!
> 
> Joe



My 240 has been nothing but a work horse. Not the fastest saw ever, but a Prius doesn't go like a Corvette either. It too had a bog problem which was easily remedied. It was the H setting for the carb, set too lean from the dealer. It would run fine until about a 1/2 tank of fuel, then start bogging from leaning out in the cut.

Does the saw start and idle fine, then go wommmpp woommmp when you squeeze the throttle? Or are you going along in the cut no problem, and then wooommmppp?

I have no idea the size or type of trees you're cutting, but mine has served me well. I don't get into big wood often though, my go to is 4-9" poplar. If you don't have much experience with saws, maybe a tune up and a non safety chain would give you a bit of experience before you step up. I haven't yet switched my chain, so I wish i could tell you how it goes with a normal chain.


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## Kosmonauts (Feb 26, 2016)

saskwoodburner said:


> My 240 has been nothing but a work horse. Not the fastest saw ever, but a Prius doesn't go like a Corvette either. It too had a bog problem which was easily remedied. It was the H setting for the carb, set too lean from the dealer. It would run fine until about a 1/2 tank of fuel, then start bogging from leaning out in the cut.
> 
> Does the saw start and idle fine, then go wommmpp woommmp when you squeeze the throttle? Or are you going along in the cut no problem, and then wooommmppp?
> 
> I have no idea the size or type of trees you're cutting, but mine has served me well. I don't get into big wood often though, my go to is 4-9" poplar. If you don't have much experience with saws, maybe a tune up and a non safety chain would give you a bit of experience before you step up. I haven't yet switched my chain, so I wish i could tell you how it goes with a normal chain.


Don't get me wrong the thing was working fantastic.  It leans out on the cut usually on the bigger locust cuts.  I cleaned up the muffler and air filter and sprocket and everything is in tip top shape so I can't really seem to find the problem.

  A lot of guys are saying the same thing about it not being meant for the kind of wood I'm cutting so I'm not sure.  I love the thing and wish it would work but I just can't seem to find the problem.


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## Kosmonauts (Feb 26, 2016)

black_sab said:


> I have the same saw... it's at best a limb trimmer. I once bucked a bunch of maple logs with it. Only way it was even remotely doable was to keep the chain uber-sharp at all times.
> 
> btw... I just jumped from a 240 to a 372xp. The difference is insane. dump that 240 and buy a pro saw!


Went with the 455 rancher you guys!  Hopefully this is a game changer.  Gotta take her easy first.  Thanks you guys


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## saskwoodburner (Feb 26, 2016)

Kosmonauts said:


> Don't get me wrong the thing was working fantastic.  It leans out on the cut usually on the bigger locust cuts.  I cleaned up the muffler and air filter and sprocket and everything is in tip top shape so I can't really seem to find the problem.
> 
> A lot of guys are saying the same thing about it not being meant for the kind of wood I'm cutting so I'm not sure.  I love the thing and wish it would work but I just can't seem to find the problem.



Probably needs to be tuned a bit richer on the high side and it'll be all it can be. In any event, you have a bigger saw, so save the 240 for the limbing and small trees. It isn't a heavy duty saw by any means.


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Feb 27, 2016)

7acres said:


> Safety is always paramount. Not disagreeing there. But one area a pro saw will delight you is the anti-vibe. If you're felling, limbing and bucking for 2-4 hours straight your hands & wrists will not be tingling from the vibration the whole time. I went from a MS290 (non-pro) to a MS362 (pro) and the safety factor seemed to be no different. Actually it ran so nicely my impression was that it was a safer experience.
> 
> If you're scrounging a few cords every year you need a strong main saw. I learned on my MS290. For instance a sharp chain with properly filed rakers is 90% of the equation. Learning how to hand sharpen in the field is key to being able to finish the day out strong. And always watching and looking for dirt will keep you sharp for a long time. But when it was stolen I was glad to have an excuse to start fresh with pro saws. Every time I'm out running them I always return home so happy with the performance.
> 
> When you're tearing through a 30" trunk with thick chips flying out like a firehose and your saw is dropping through fast and not bogging there's a sense of awe it inspires!


The 455 Rancher is equipped with their lowvibe feature as well.  If you compare the equivalent vibration levels of say the 455 Rancher and my 390XP, my pro saw has significantly higher vibration.  I can attest to that as well.  That 390XP produces noticeably more vibration while running.


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Feb 27, 2016)

Kosmonauts said:


> Went with the 455 rancher you guys!  Hopefully this is a game changer.  Gotta take her easy first.  Thanks you guys



Great choice!  You will not be disappointed!


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## CrufflerJJ (Feb 27, 2016)

CentralVAWoodHeat said:


> Kosmonauts-pro saws produce a serious amount of torque and chain speed.  There is also a weight penalty and the cost of upkeep is way higher.



Why do you say that the cost of upkeep is way higher?  Are you talking about the cost of fuel & air filters, or something else?


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Feb 27, 2016)

CrufflerJJ said:


> Why do you say that the cost of upkeep is way higher?  Are you talking about the cost of fuel & air filters, or something else?


I'm more referring to things like carburetors, bars, replacement covers, oil pumps, and the like.


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## woodhog73 (Feb 27, 2016)

Nice choice the rancher is a good solid saw and if taken care of will give you years of service. No need to spend the extra money on the pro version if you don't need it. In the end they all cut wood and like someone else mentioned it comes down to a sharp and correctly filed chain being most important to good cutting performance.

And yes to your thoughts of hopefully it will be a game changer. Compared to your 240 it will be night and day difference.

Are you keeping the 240 ? It's always nice to have a back up saw. If your cutting bigger heavy logs and you pinch the bar etc you have a back up saw to cut your stuck saw out, etc etc. Or if you have brush and buckthorn to remove it's so much easier to use the little 240 to lean over and cut buckthorn 

Enjoy the new saw


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## 7acres (Feb 27, 2016)

woodhog73 said:


> It's always nice to have a back up saw. If your cutting bigger heavy logs and you pinch the bar etc you have a back up saw to cut your stuck saw out, etc etc. Or if you have brush and buckthorn to remove it's so much easier to use the little 240 to lean over and cut buckthorn



Agree 100%. A two saw rig gives you lots of options.


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## Soundchasm (Mar 15, 2016)

I've got the 435 with a 16" bar, and I'm always astonished by what the saw WILL do.  Your 20" bar is going to be great.  Do whatever it takes to get the carb adjust tool if it's a specialty item you don't have.  My saw was virtually unstartable with the factory settings.  Now that it's been correctly set, it burbles on the 2nd pull, release the choke, and starts on the 3rd pull.  What a joy.


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## Sprinter (Mar 15, 2016)

I would never get rid of a small saw and just replace it with a bigger one.  Small saws are just right for small jobs like limbing and smaller trees.

I fixed my bogging problem by adjusting the high carb adjust.  Not saying that the OP's problem was the same, but there's always room for two saws.  I often wish for a larger one, but I wouldn't give up my 40cc either.

Regarding the carb adjust tool, they can be had for as little as $4 to $6 on ebay and other places.


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## Dobish (Mar 15, 2016)

my 445 has been acting up lately. i think the problem is I cleaned it. It used to start first pull every time, and the other day it ran for a little bit, then died and wouldn't start.

I had been playing with the Throttle but dialed it back to where it was before I played around with it.   I didn't adjust anything else. It also seems like there is no bar oil getting onto the chain. I have new bar i am going to try (i cleaned and lubed the old bar and sprocket, and there appears to be bar oil coming out of the oiler. 

i have had a few issues with this saw, so i am not sure how much time I want to put into it.


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## Sprinter (Mar 16, 2016)

Bigger is better to an extent.  I'm no expert, but I have just enough experience with various saws over the years to know that you can't replace a dull chain with more power.  I'm not saying that is done here, but I do know that a new or (properly) sharpened chain can transform any saw.  FWIW.

All that assumes that the saw is running up to spec or course...


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## Dobish (Mar 22, 2016)

Dobish said:


> my 445 has been acting up lately. i think the problem is I cleaned it. It used to start first pull every time, and the other day it ran for a little bit, then died and wouldn't start.
> 
> I had been playing with the Throttle but dialed it back to where it was before I played around with it.   I didn't adjust anything else. It also seems like there is no bar oil getting onto the chain. I have new bar i am going to try (i cleaned and lubed the old bar and sprocket, and there appears to be bar oil coming out of the oiler.
> 
> i have had a few issues with this saw, so i am not sure how much time I want to put into it.



Apparently new spark plugs make all the difference.


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## Dobish (May 6, 2016)

Sprinter said:


> Regarding the carb adjust tool, they can be had for as little as $4 to $6 on ebay and other places.



What is the head design? is it this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Splined-Car...cle-Poulan-Husqvarna-Carburetor-/181903264262

I can't seem to find anything about which tool it actually is...


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## Dobish (May 6, 2016)

Sprinter said:


> Regarding the carb adjust tool, they can be had for as little as $4 to $6 on ebay and other places.



What is the head design? is it this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Splined-Car...cle-Poulan-Husqvarna-Carburetor-/181903264262

I can't seem to find anything about which tool it actually is...


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## dougand3 (May 6, 2016)

Probably is the splined tool you link. BUT, could be D, double D or PacMan. Aftermarket carbs tend to be small slotted screwdriver. Pull limiter caps and look at the H-L screws. Search ebay "Husqvarna 445 carb" and look at different screws. And note that a new AM carb is $19. I don't rebuild when that cheap.


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## Dobish (May 6, 2016)

i just had the shop replace it, but they didn't adjust to my liking.


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## Sprinter (May 6, 2016)

That's the one I got.  My saw is a 440e model, but I imagine Husqvarna uses the same pattern.  It's used for the H and L adjustments.  T is a regular slotted head.


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## Dobish (May 6, 2016)

cool. i will pick that one up. i was still having some issues when it got hot, but I looked and just found a kink in the fuel line.


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## Sprinter (May 6, 2016)

I actually got mine from a different dealer, but it was described exactly the same way.  You may be able to get it a little cheaper if you don't mind getting it from China and take a little longer.


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## Dobish (May 6, 2016)

i was going to get it from the dealer, but they would only sell me the full set of them, which was $60


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## dougand3 (May 10, 2016)

You don't HAFTA have a carb tool. Working on a trimmer carb this evening and it was a D tool. Couldn't find mine. Out comes dremel with cut off wheel and you have slotted. Helps if you hit middle of screw. WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN" CARB TOOLS. Now, if saw under warranty....


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## Dobish (May 23, 2016)

Finally got the carb tool, and it was in fact the splined one. I was helping a friend fell some trees yesterday, and about 3" into the first cut, it started bogging down on me again. I fine tuned it, and now it cuts like a champ. I had it buried in a 14" dia black walnut and it just kept cutting!


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