# Compact Tractor



## Elbinwyp (Jun 14, 2014)

Anyone have experience with compact tractors like the Kubota BX 2370 (https://www.kubota.com/product/bx70/bx70.aspx)??

My wife and I moved into a 2.5 acre homestead in NW Ohio. I am starting to think through snow removal, tilling (we borrowed a PTO tiller this year), mowing, moving firewood, and general front loader work. I was quoted $15,000 for the 2370 new with 60" mower and front loader. I am having trouble justifying the cost but am tempted by the convenience.

Anyone have any opinions or experiences with tractors like these?


----------



## HybridFyre (Jun 14, 2014)

You can get an old Case 446 with FEL for $2-2.5k that will do everything you listed. It will be old. Like 20-30 years+ old but those old engines are very powerful. I have 2 case's one is 43 years old the other is 40 and they have an amazing amount of power.


----------



## Black7 (Jun 14, 2014)

I have a B3030.  It gets used quite a bit for snow removal, and in the Spring, for firewood harvest.  I don't till, or mow with it - no need for that yet.  The Kubota brand is spendy.  To date, I have put only oil and filters, and had the front tires tubed (common for the B3030).  I use the FEL, the forklift attachment, a back blade, and in the Winter the snow thrower attachment.  Great gear!

The tractor is something that I'd have a hard time doing without.  I even use a three-point chipper for the tree tops when I'm finishing up a site from firewood cutting.  It keeps my property much cleaner looking.  I got tired of burning the piles.  A couple of hours and I have maple chips for ground cover, and I don't have wait for a good day to burn.

I'd recommend scanning your local Craiglist for a lightly used model.  Unless you prefer new.


----------



## fossil (Jun 14, 2014)

I have a little Massey-Ferguson I bought new a few years ago.  I love it, it's a heck of a lot of fun and actually useful.  Moving snow with the FEL is really tedious, a rear blade would work a heck of a lot better.  For towing stuff with a 3PH, get your hands on one of these:  http://www.tractorhitch.com/  I had a couple of trailers and things to move around, and the FPHS-1 made it as easy as it could be.

I agree to look at used tractors...but it doesn't have to be decades old.  Rick


----------



## Ashful (Jun 14, 2014)

I was in your shoes three years ago, Elbinwyp.  I debated buying new, but after having borrowed a few older machines, was able to make up my mind on what I needed in a used tractor.  Most of these machines will run 2000 - 3000 hours before needing major work, and I found several machines under 1000 hours in the $7k - $8k range.

If intending to do any FEL work, then you really want to stick to 4wd machines.  Not that you can't put an FEL on a 2wd machine, but just that going forwards down hills becomes insanely dangerous, and you'll always find yourself lacking traction.

If buying 4wd, then you'll want to stick to machines with power steering.  Not that you can't have 4wd with manual steering, but that you will hate yourself and your tractor in very short order, driving around with a heavy FEL and 4wd without manual steering (read:  elbow and shoulder problems).

I picked up this Deere 855 MFWD (4wd) with model 52 FEL and 72" mid-mount mower for $8k.  I can't remember what I spent on the snow blower, but I do remember the ballast box cost me about $200, about the same for a 1200 lb. utility trailer, and $600 for a Herd M12 seed spreader.  It's a 25 hp diesel (19 hp PTO), weighs about 1900 lb. without accessories or 3000 lb. with FEL and ballast box.  I did upgrade the front tires from typical 4-ply turf to 6-ply turf (not easy to find!).


----------



## bassJAM (Jun 15, 2014)

I'd love to have a compact one day, but I only have 3 acres, half of which is wooded, and I can't justify the need for it.  An older garden tractor is doing great for me so far.  Maybe someday if/when I have 20 or more acres.  But heck, my dad takes care of his 36 acres with an old Ford 8N and it does fine for him.  A FEL would be great, but there's other things I'd rather spend my money on.


----------



## Ashful (Jun 15, 2014)

bassJAM said:


> A FEL would be great, but there's other things I'd rather spend my money on.


I'll tell you, bass, I used to think the same way.  Now that I've owned one a few years, though, I put it right at the top of the list among my tools.  In fact, the FEL is now 90% of what I use my tractor for.  Truly one if those, "I don't know how I ever lived without it," tools.


----------



## Redbarn (Jun 15, 2014)

100% agree with Joful. 
I went through this process last year and ended up with an 8 year old Kubota BX1500 with FEL  + mower deck for about $7k.
Searched long + hard and eventually found one with only 450 hours on it and was a huge saving on a new Kubota.
You do truly need the 4WD and power steering with the FEL.
The FEL detaches easily (prevents the wife from damaging things with it) so the compact tractor can be used in many tight places.

I already have an old John Deere tractor but the compact tractor is the most useful tool around our property.
I'm frankly amazed how much we use it.


----------



## maple1 (Jun 15, 2014)

You might be limiting yourself overall by looking at one do it all machine. Depending on the particulars of your situation and property. I can't mow my lawn with something big enough that would easily remove the snow from our driveway. And real tractor tires can chew the heck out of grass especially if 4wd is involved. I'd maybe look for a used ride-on for most of the lawn, and a used 4wd fel for the rest. You should be able to get yourself into both for less money than you're bouncing around now.


----------



## Highbeam (Jun 16, 2014)

Every 4wd tractor I've been around has selectable 4wd like a truck. You don't need to use it if you are afraid it will cause more turf damage. My problem is weight. For a tractor to have enough "ass" for tractor work you need weight but when mowing the lawn that weight will cause ruts. My 30 HP compact weighs 4500# with the FEL and mower deck. Some folks also fill their tires which will add even more weight. Compare to a lawnmower at 500#.

That 60" mower that was part of the quote for the OP. Why don't you look at a cheap riding lawnmower with a 54" deck?

What's a 2.5 acre homestead? Aren't homesteads hundreds of acres?


----------



## ewdudley (Jun 16, 2014)

Highbeam said:


> ... Aren't homesteads hundreds of acres?



Homestead is a quarter-section, 160 acre, 25600 square rods, ~65 hectare.


----------



## Ashful (Jun 16, 2014)

Highbeam said:


> Every 4wd tractor I've been around has selectable 4wd like a truck. You don't need to use it if you are afraid it will cause more turf damage. My problem is weight. For a tractor to have enough "ass" for tractor work you need weight but when mowing the lawn that weight will cause ruts. My 30 HP compact weighs 4500# with the FEL and mower deck. Some folks also fill their tires which will add even more weight. Compare to a lawnmower at 500#.


Same situation here, although my tractor is only 25 hp and 3000 lb. I keep 4wd turned off, except when I'm in mud / snow, or doing heavy FEL work on a hill.

I suspect most mowers are heavier than you think, though, particularly int he 60" class.  My 60" ZTR mower weighs 1200 lb. dry, which with me and a full tank of gas goes up to 1425 lb.



ewdudley said:


> Homestead is a quarter-section, 160 acre, 25600 square rods, ~65 hectare.


Mostly only to mid-westerners, I suspect.  Around here, almost all the original "homesteads" doled out in the 1720's were 100 acres.

I believe "homestead" actually refers to the simple act of taking original ownership, i.e. "squatting" or "granting", versus buying property that is already legally owned.  We still have some of the original Penn land grants given to my family for farms we owned in the 1720's.  One was still the original / legal "deed" for the property, from 1726 - 1995'ish, when we sold that farm.


----------



## Highbeam (Jun 16, 2014)

Joful said:


> I suspect most mowers are heavier than you think, though, particularly int he 60" class.  My 60" ZTR mower weighs 1200 lb. dry, which with me and a full tank of gas goes up to 1425 lb.


 
Good point, I have no experience with wide deck lawn mowers or ZTRs. I do have a smashed finger where my 750# mower deck, just the spinny part, fell on it and made bone soup.

I sure do like having a FEL around the house. Long ago I welded hooks to the bucket so I can lift stuff too.


----------



## Ashful (Jun 16, 2014)

Yeah, I wish mine had a hook on either side, for more equal living.  I currently have one chain hook, top center.  Very handy, and gets used a few times each month.

More of my heavy lifting/pulling is done with a draw bar on the 3-point hitch, since my tractor is a little lighter than yours.  That 3-point can lift quite a bit of weight at the drawbar.  Great for pulling stumps, etc.  You just have to choke up tight on the chain, due to the limited travel.


----------



## bassJAM (Jun 16, 2014)

ZTR's might weight more, but they also have fat tires to distribute the load.  Mine comes in at around 1200 lbs with fluids, a full tank, and me., but I can mow through a part of my yard that is pure mud right after a rain and only leave mud streaks.  I wouldn't dare take a tractor with skinny tires through that part of the yard as it would leave deep ruts.  My "garden tractor" with wide turf tires is around 800 lbs fully loaded and can go right though the mud too, but the front tires do leave a little bit of a rut.


----------



## Ashful (Jun 16, 2014)

Most of my turf damage on the ZTR comes from the rears losing traction and spinning when it gets soupy, not actual sinking of the machine.  Also, those skinnier front caster tires can make a mess when the swivel on the soft wet stuff.

A lot of the homeowner grade ZTR's have pretty skinny rear tires, too.  Maybe it's to prevent home-boners from creating big divots when they try to zero-pivot the machine.  ;-)


----------



## TreePointer (Jun 16, 2014)

I agree with the two tractor solution if $$ permits.

Materials handling/moving (FEL, pallet forks, skidding, trailer towing, snow removal, etc.) is hard on machines and THEY WILL HAVE DOWN TIME for repairs.  When I need my lawn tractor for mowing, I really need it right now.  In addition, it's very difficult to get a capable tractor for moving materials that makes the lawn look as nice as a dedicated lawn machine (lawn tractor or ZTR).


----------



## lindnova (Jun 16, 2014)

If I had the money I would have a mower tractor (probably zero turn), 30 hp tractor and skid steer. 

I have a Kubota BX2200 23 hp.  It does everything and has been very useful for me.  I mow with a  54" deck and it works great, no problems.  The loader clears snow and countless other jobs.  The three point is only used for my box blade, but someday I will get an angle blade for snow and a rototiller maybe.  Sure it doesn't move mountains super fast, but does get the job done. 

I bought it with 800 hrs in 2006 for $8900.00.  I have 1700 hours on it now.  Rebuilt front axle (hard use and leaky seals) and hydraulic hoses have been my only problems.

I do like the John Deere's also.  I like the foot controls better, but they cost a little more.  Get one that has dealer support close by and you will not regret it.  Resale is good, as you have probably found, if you change your mind later and want to go bigger or smaller.


----------



## Ashful (Jun 16, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> I agree with the two tractor solution if $$ permits... it's very difficult to get a capable tractor for moving materials that makes the lawn look as nice as a dedicated lawn machine (lawn tractor or ZTR).


Not to mention it's a major PITA using a tractor with a mower deck hanging from it for anything but mowing.  I was maneuvering my tractor in tight quarters yesterday and today, in the woods and around my wood storage lot.  I couldn't even imagine doing that with the 72" belly mower mounted.

For most folks, I suspect storage is the major constraint.  Tractors and mowers ain't cheap, but they're much cheaper than the garage you need for storing two of 'em.


----------



## velvetfoot (Jun 16, 2014)

I had a pellet boiler moved today from the garage down to the walk-in basement in the back of the house by a fellow with a rubber-tracked Cat skid steer.  He had fine control, and compressed the grass with his tracks, but I think it'll pop back up.  See picture.  Excuse the appearance of the poster.


----------



## Gboutdoors (Jun 17, 2014)

We bought a BX2360 new 2009 in the box for $11000.00 as a left over in 2010. Came with fel and weight box.

We had gotten a price of $14000.00 to landscape our new home from a friend. But he said we should do it our selfs just go get the Kubota with 0 down 0 financing and 60 months.

Best money we ever spent! It is now almost paid for the landscaping is done. And we use the BX almost every day for one thing or another.

The neighbor liked it so much he ran out and bought a used one with a backhoe.

Jane loves to cut the grass with a push mower so till she gets tired of that no belly mower. But we did buy a 4' brush mower, BXM32 chipper,5' back blade , 3ph carryall, and a small set of disk harrows . Plus I just traded 2 cords of c/s/s oak for a kubota tiller .

Our land is a bit larger than yours at 22 acres but trust me you will use the tractor ALL the time.


----------



## Jags (Jun 17, 2014)

I like the idea of these cuts being light weight and "handy".  Bigger tractors have there upsides, but they have their downsides too.


----------



## maple1 (Jun 17, 2014)

Jags said:


> I like the idea of these cuts being light weight and "handy".  Bigger tractors have there upsides, but they have their downsides too.


 

Yessir, which is why I have a Toro snowblower & JD LA135 ride-on even though there's a 100hp tractor in the family.


----------



## AK13 (Jun 17, 2014)

I'm wondering if a compact tractor would be a better way to move wood from my barn than a pickup. The advantage is that maybe I wouldn't need a 4wd pickup anymore. The disadvantage would be that it seems like the bucket probably doesn't hold a lot of wood so it could be a lot of trips from barn to house. 

I'm probably hold onto my Simplicity garden tractor for mowing. But I could use the FEL for landscaping and gardening. 

My truck holds 1/4 cord stacked level which isn't bad. Its a compact Ranger style with a 6' bed.


----------



## Ashful (Jun 17, 2014)

AK13 said:


> I'm wondering if a compact tractor would be a better way to move wood from my barn than a pickup. The advantage is that maybe I wouldn't need a 4wd pickup anymore. The disadvantage would be that it seems like the bucket probably doesn't hold a lot of wood so it could be a lot of trips from barn to house...
> My truck holds 1/4 cord stacked level which isn't bad. Its a compact Ranger style with a 6' bed.


My tractor holds more than 1/4 cord, between the FEL bucket and my little poly tub wagon:


----------



## Highbeam (Jun 17, 2014)

You only have to load the FEL and then you can dump it out and go get another load. With a pickup you need to load and unload and then stack.


----------



## TreePointer (Jun 17, 2014)

The range of compact tractors in terms of overall weight and FEL max weight rating is very wide.  A lot of tractors I see here can be classified as subcompact utility tractors (sub-CUT).  The larger compact utility tractors (CUT) can be pretty large

The one pictured in my avatar is a JD 4600 CUT (43hp 4-cylinder Yanmar diesel).  It has 6' bucket that can hold over 1/6 cord of split rounds stacked in an orderly fashion and it's max weight rating is ~2950 lbs at pivot point.  This was one of the larger CUTs offered by JD at the time, but there are some larger tractors that are classified as CUTs by the manufacturers.

I've been meaning to get more pictures of this tractor with different implements and wood loads, but this is the one of the few I have right now.  For size reference, that's a 35-ton Huskee on the back.


----------



## AK13 (Jun 18, 2014)

Joful said:


> My tractor holds more than 1/4 cord, between the FEL bucket and my little poly tub wagon:
> View attachment 134392
> View attachment 134391



Great point on the cart/wagon. I have that exact poly tub wagon I think. Its a fantastic cart. And I'm not traveling a huge distance so there is nothing magic about 1/4 cord. With the FEL I might be able to dump the load right on my porch to make stacking that much quicker. 

That is a nice green tractor. Great house too. I grew up in a stone house.


----------



## clemsonfor (Jun 18, 2014)

Seems like I have seen this post in another forum somewhere? 

But Yea a tractor is very use full. When I bring my tractor back from my farm property to my house on 3/4 acre I was supp rised what I use it for on there. I only have a boom pole and no loader but I found I was lifting all kinds of stuff with it!


----------



## Jags (Jun 19, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> The range of compact tractors in terms of overall weight and FEL max weight rating is very wide.



This doesn't really fit the description of a CUT - but its not very big in the real world of backhoes (11,000 pounds).  Perfect size for what I do with it and the loader is a 3/4 yard bucket (industrial) that can lift several thousand pounds.  The front tires are AG tires with 60 psi and I can flatten them.


----------



## Ashful (Jun 19, 2014)

Okay, guys... OP was looking at a Kubota BX 2370 for chores on his little 2.5 acre lot.  You're just a wee bit out of his class.


----------



## Jags (Jun 19, 2014)

It wasn't intended as a side track, more so as to point out the actual different capabilities of different machines. To provoke thought.  I have a buddy that has a small green CUT - he was disappointed that he couldn't lift a log over the side of my truck.  It simply didn't have the lift height.  These are things that at least need to be known so that an informed decision can be made.

ETA: pick height, pick weight, tractor weight, PTO hp, shuttle or gear shift, hydro performance, etc. are all things that should be taken into consideration.


----------



## TreePointer (Jun 19, 2014)

+1

We're just pointing out capabilities and limitations of various tractors.  A new sub-CUT may be disappointing while a used CUT would perform the required tasks at the same price.


----------



## clemsonfor (Jun 19, 2014)

Here is a picture of my ym2000


----------



## Jags (Jun 19, 2014)

Neat little tractor.  Do you have other attachments for it?


----------



## clemsonfor (Jun 19, 2014)

Jags said:


> Neat little tractor.  Do you have other attachments for it?


if your asking me , yes I do. I have a bush hog rdf 720 or whatever the lingo on the side discharge finish mower is...its a 72" cut. its really my uncles but he do sent use it and I maintain it and use it. I have a slip scoop/pond scoop...never used it. painted it up but havent ever used it?? I have a boom pole to lift objects. I have a 4.5 ft disk harrow for food plots and a 4ft box blade to smooth my roads etc. those pipes up front are my ball EST to keep the front down. that rusty metal one is solid 3" bar steel and weighs maybe 80lbs the blue pipe is 3" ID pipe filled with lead and capped and weighs about 100lbs. so I have about 180 lbs maybe a bit less out front to hold it down. I need it with the disk as I ball EST it down with over a 100lbs and it hangs way back. it will make u have to turn with the brakes still if I put too much weight on it. And since I put windshield washer fluid in the tires it will pull the disk like no bodies business!!

is great on fuel too. even turning the 72" finish mower in tall grass will use around a gallon an hour maybe more or less based on load and I can Bush hog about an acre an hour maybe a tad more ?


----------



## Ashful (Jun 19, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> We're just pointing out capabilities and limitations of various tractors.  A new sub-CUT may be disappointing while a used CUT would perform the required tasks at the same price.


Oh, I definitely agree.  The whole sub-CUT class is only a good fit for folks that have more money than space, as you can't find many good deals used (too new), and their capabilities are so severely limited.  However, there's still a very wide gap between a sub-CUT and an 11,000 lb / 43 hp machine!  If I had 2.5 acres, I'd be looking at a used CUT in the 20 - 25 hp range with a loader and full cat.1 hitch.  Deere 750, 850, 855, 955, 2500, etc.  Any machine that size (that I've used) has no trouble getting over the side of a pickup bed.


----------



## Kool_hand_Looke (Jun 23, 2014)

Lager tractors absolutely have their down side. I have a New Holland 75 Workmaster diesel with 65 PTO H.P.   with a FEL, it's a category/tier 2 tractor and 140 acres. About half the time it's almost too big. The only reason for the cat-2 need is no till planting in CRP ground. The FEL is nice but not that nice. As much as it can pull, which is a LOT, the FEL isn't made for felling trees. Eventually I'm going to move on to a skid steer. 

The cost associated with the compact tractors is insane. My tractor is 10 years old with a lot of hours...but...it's been very well maintained. There's nothing wrong with it. I saw one on CL a while back that sold for $11,000 (probably less). You could pick up a smaller cat-1 tractor for even less and pick up a brand new commercial zero turn mower and still come out ahead. 

I'd sell this tractor now, for $12k or $13k but I just renewed a CRP "grant" and have to burn off those fields and replant them. The only other reason I'm half tempted to keep this tractor is the sickle mower for mowing around 2 ponds and a lake. But if I get a skid steer I can tackle that even easier with the right attachment. Not to mention process wood would be even easier.


----------

