# OSBURN and REGENCY Wood Stove Reviews ??? asap



## jimmyb7

Hey all...
Well, after a terrible experience with Vermont Casting (4-5 hour max burn ! and crazy temps), our store is being good and looks like we will switch to either an OSBURN or REGENCY Stove  ---- NOT INSERT (I saw some insert reviews but not stoves).

I m trying to get first-hand opinions of these brands -- MAIN CONSIDERATION is BURN-TIME and how clean.  The VC was supposed to be 13 hours and really clean..... yeah right.

A Dual or Secondary Combustion is important, as it is supposed to greatly increase burn time and reduce waste in the air.

Can anyone help out ?

I was looking at the REGENCY Classic F3100 or S2400 ,  and OSBURN 2400 or 2300

ANY INFO WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED

Jim


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## KB007

We have the Regency I3100 Insert which is basically the same firebox as the F3100.  The box is big and can take lots of wood (NS works best for us) to give nice long overnight burns.  We usually wake up to a nice bed of coals ready for a hot re-load.  Keeps our 1800 sqft bungalow heated well. The secondary burn works well.  I'm pretty sure the F3100 would probably put out a little more heat than the insert. Quality seems good. Operation is easy. Blower works well.  Let me know if you have any more Q's.


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## jimmyb7

Thanks KB..... I'm assuming NS is non-split?
I recalculated our home... about 1500 sqft to heat, with living and bedrooms all in the front - open concept.
The VC heated Everything, but only for 4 hours, and the heat couldn't be regulated well.

So yeah, looking at the numbers the Regency and Osburns look nice, but again, finding practical use burn-times is a craps shoot.  They show less efficiency but I'm reading longer practical burn times from what I can find.

Thanks


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## jeff_t

Which VC stove do you have? What's your chimney setup? What's your wood supply like (try how long cut, split, stacked)?

Edit: nevermind, just read through your other thread https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/89235/


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## jimmyb7

Hey Jeff... I don't want to litter my own thread too much (grin)... I have a separate thread on the VC Encore 2in1.... but giving up on that model.
Everything is set up perfect. 16 foot chimney, 6" stainless double wall interior, proper outside - through the wall with 2 45 angles instead of 90. 18 inch or so wood, all hardwood, not green, some moisture still in some. Left out to dry all summer, then stacked inside. -- been burning wood since I was a kid.

Just a bad stove, many bad reviews can now be found - including the 4 hour and erratic temps.


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## jeff_t

The Osburn inserts sure seem to be popular here. SBI makes good stuff. Fyrebug/bert is a company rep on the boards here.


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## KB007

NS = North South - that's when you load the stove with the split lined up fron to back.  Gives us a longer burn time.


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## jimmyb7

Ah, front to back, not side to side. Got it.
Vermont is so narrow, it only allows for side to side.  Even my old cheapie Kent stove let me stack either way. I used to do it like building blocks, s2s then f2b ontop that.


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## begreen

Both are good companies with nice products. It looks like the Regency 3100 series firebox is only 2 firebricks deep. If so, I don't see how this would be a good N/S loader. Comments? FWIW, I like the Regency 2400 because I like a more square firebox and I like the firebrick baffle. But if you want long burn times, and heat, I'd go big with the Osburn 2400 with the deeper firebox. 

PS: Kudos to your dealer for working well with you.


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## jimmyb7

Thanks !
I find out the choices Friday.
The Regency F3100 has a 2.9 firebox and outside depth is 25",  the F2400 has a 2.3 firebox but an outside depth of 27" -- so maybe the less power 2400 has a deeper box?
The S2400 is also 2.3 box and 27" outside depth.
I dont know the actual box dimensions.
This WOULD be good to know.


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## Lumber-Jack

jimmyb7 said:
			
		

> Thanks KB..... I'm assuming NS is non-split?
> I recalculated our home... about 1500 sqft to heat, with living and bedrooms all in the front - open concept.
> The VC heated Everything, but only for 4 hours, and the heat couldn't be regulated well.
> 
> So yeah, looking at the numbers the Regency and Osburns look nice, but again, finding practical use burn-times is a craps shoot.  They show less efficiency but I'm reading longer practical burn times from what I can find.
> 
> Thanks


We have the Regency F2400, which seems to be pretty much the same as the S2400. Our house is 1500 sq ft and we have no problem heating it (with pine). Realistic over night burns are are about 6 hours of actual fire and another 4 hours of enough hot coals to start another fire without using a match. The box is square, so you can load either way, N/S or E/W.
Been heating our house pretty much exclusively with the Regency for 4 winters now. Only run the heat pump to cycle it once in a while.
Don't know anything about your other choice, so I can't compare.


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## begreen

jimmyb7 said:
			
		

> Thanks !
> I find out the choices Friday.
> The Regency F3100 has a 2.9 firebox and outside depth is 25",  the F2400 has a 2.3 firebox but an outside depth of 27" -- so maybe the less power 2400 has a deeper box?
> The S2400 is also 2.3 box and 27" outside depth.
> I dont know the actual box dimensions.
> This WOULD be good to know.



Download their manuals and compare the firebrick layouts. The Osburn is 30.625" outside depth. Inside there is a big, deep stove.


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## babzog

Have a regency f2100m in the basement and it's a great burner. No problem getting all day or overnight burns. Burns clean and hot. I do wish I'd gone with the 3100 but, with the Opel 3 now providing our main heat, this will be doing backup duty now. Would definitely buy one again!


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## jimmyb7

THANKS 

Seems no one is commenting on the Osburn to my BIG surprise.

I thought Osburn was a big name too.... maybe we'll just look at the Regency models tomorrow.

Thanks guys !!


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## dafattkidd

Well I know you siad no inserts, but I have the Osburn 2400i.  The firebox is advertised 3.2 cf.  It's 21 3/4" NS to the glass and 23 EW (they advertise smaller firebox dimensions, but this is the true measurement of my insert).  I am very happy with the heat output and the quality of the stove.  I can only assume that the stand alone version is the same stove on legs.  I have been burning in this unit for just over a year.  I had a smaller Napoleon insert before this and man what a difference.  I am very happy with this unit.  It weighs 550 lbs so the mass really puts out the heat even with the blower off (but I usually have it on).  Being able to burn longer log lengths has saved me a lot of work.  Another thing I like about it is inside the firebox there is a ledge that keeps the coals from falling out.  I regularly go 14 hours between burns and have coals for a relight.  Now I'm not getting any real heat off of the unit at that time, but the coals are there waiting for me to feed the beast.  Hope that helps.  Good luck with your decision.


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## jimmyb7

Hey mate--   thanks !
Can I ask, approx what size home/floorspace are you heating?  And how much flame/burn time would you estimate?  I mean before the heat drops below being useful ?

Would you believe I'm dealing with 4 hours right now in my VC..........


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## dafattkidd

I'm heating 1700sf very drafty house. I'm burning oak, locust and sugar maple and getting 7-8 hours of good heat (stove temp at 300 by the end of the burn).  Sometimes less if it's really cold out. But with a good coal bed it will stay at 300 for hours. So if my house wasn't so drafty I wouldn't have to reload as often.  Actual flame I don't know... It varies I guess.  The stove top regularly gets above 700 so it really cranks the heat when it's cruising like that.


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## Swedishchef

Jimmyb7;

I hope all is well in NS.

I have a 2300 and love it. It is a very deep firebox. That's why it has a bypass handle to prevent smoke rollout while reloading. The bypass also helps heat the chimney MUCH faster than non-bypass stoves. 

When fully loaded with maple, I can get flames for about 6 hours and coals for another 4-5. I can easily load my stove at 9-10 PM and get up at 0630 and have plenty of coals going, stove top still sitting around 200-300. Rake em forward and let er rip. One con with my setup: I can't close my primary air completely. Some stoves you can and on my 2300, with my chimney setup, I can't. Perhaps my draft isn't good enough, perhaps it is. I close my damper down 85-90% for a good secondary light show with the primary slowly helping the wood burn. If I turn the primary down all the way, my fire goes out after 10 minutes or so. Open it 10% and it cruises...

My stove is installed in my basement. I have a 1325 square foot bungalow (2.5 years old). My basement is very well insulated (1.5 inches of sprayfoam with R14 roxul on stop) so my stove heat the ENTIRE HOUSE (basement and upstairs) very well. Once my basement reaches 21-23 degrees, the heat starts going up my staircase and the rest is history. 

I love my stove. It has the largest glass door on the market (which is made out of cast iron) and there is a TON of radian heat that goes through it. My cofee table which is about 5-6 feet away gets warm from the radiant heat straight through the glass. 

As for how clean it burns, that depends on your wood source and how dry it is. I only clean my chimney once a year and MAY get 1/2 a gallon or so of  dry flakey dust (I burn a total of 2-2.5 cords of hardwood and softwood). My flue temps hover (while there are flames) between 400-500 degrees. Roughly 20 minutes after a reload there is no visible smoke coming out of my stack.

As DaFattKidd's insert, my stove often hits 600-650 degrees and is putting out the heat like a dragon's breath. I have a digital wall thermostat about 11 feet away from the stove and when it's cranking out the heat the thermostat will often inside 31-33 degrees. lol. However, the precise temperature is only 26 degrees or so.

I don't think you'll regret an Osburn stove. There are a ton of great stove companies on the market and I think Osburn is certainly one of them

Cheers

Andrew


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## charger4406

Sorry to hear about your problems with your vc,my first few burns were short
also with my defiant but i found the problem was a lose fitting ash door,after I
tightened the handle I've had no problems and much longer burns.
My regency is a good stove but i find the firebox to be a bit small for my house 
so I replaced it,your house is smaller and insulated so you would run on lower
settings then I've had to,so should be a good choice.
If you could find the drolet stoves, they are made by the same company as osburn
with a very good warranty and cheaper too!


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## deranged

Another Osburn 2400 insert here, 1250 square foot + finished basement, insert is in the basement, with the use of the cold air return modified to pull air from the basement, it readily heats to whole house.  I get 8 hour-good heat output-burns no problem, and that's with wood that's marginal at best.  In the mornings I have plenty of coals ready to go, throw some splits in and in about 10 minutes I'm getting secondary burns again.  Next year will be a better indicator of its performance, but thus far I am extremely happy with it.


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## hoffa

Osburn 2400 stove here. First winter burning with it (if you can call it a winter).  Good stove seems well built. only issue i have is the east-west loading, not a big fan of that so I usually load north- south.  Big firebox but very squat opening and firebox, can mean more frequent cleaning/removal of ashes. I'm about every 3 days or so. Trying to heat about 4400 sq ft. (basement install). My 2 cents.


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## dafattkidd

Hoffa welcome to the forum.  Im surprised to hear you say you have a problem burning EW and how often you shovel the ash. I go a week or two without bothering with the ashes.  I am heating way less of a spec than you are though. EW burning is great in this stove. The trick for me is to carve out a valley in the ash and coals that allows for air to get under the fuel.  That being said I usually load NS. 

What kind of wood are you 2400 owners burning?  Jimmy what kind of wood are you burning?


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## burleymike

I have an Osburn 2400i (insert) and have been very happy with it.  The freestanding version is the same firebox.  If I really pack it full of wood I can get usable heat for about 11 hours.  Normally I pack it enough to get 8-9 hours.  What I mean about usable heat is 250Â° stove top at the end.  I burn only pine so I know my burn times are less than if I had good hardwood.  I usually put smaller splits on the bottom and the huge 8x8 splits on top as it burns cleaner this way.   I usually burn between 600Â° and 450Â° stove top.


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## onion

I have the Regency I3100.  I can load 16" splits NS and up to 20" (I think) EW.  I usually put a row of splits NS and fill the rest of the box with 18" EW splits on top.  It just seems to burn better that way.

As for burn time, I started a burn last night with coals from the fire the night before, I suppose that could be considered a 21 hour burn if you consider several golf ball size coals in the back of the firebox to be a burn .  Just raked them forward to the air, put a piece of bark on them and filled the box.  That is with a mixed red maple/ash load.  I was pretty happy with that.


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## dafattkidd

Is there a reason you don't want an Englander NC30?  If I was going to buy a stand alone I'd be really considering the 30. Raving reviews and unbeatable prices. Just asking. Good luck with your search.


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## jimmyb7

Hi... yes...I have three manufacturers to pic from - that's what the store carries... Vermont Casting, Regency, Osburn.

GOOD NEWS -- we have our pick of alternative stoves !! 

The store cautioned that the BIG one Regency F3100 may be too big.  Yes you can make a smaller fire in it, but doing so the stove won't be hot enough to heat the distance --- Sounds like a good point.

ALSO - said there were a lot of problems with the Osburn 2300 (Before the Added baffle redesign, and not sure about the redesign)

It's looking like a choice of Osburn 2400 and Regency either F2400 or..maybe Regency 3100.

The problem is, the stove goes in the corner of our living room, facing the back end.  The back end has the living room and 2 bed, BUT behind the stove is a long hallway where another 2 rooms come off, the kitchen and bathroom.  SO, a big stove may just over-power the living room and do nothing for the other end of the house.  A blower again would only blow to the back end, but not the hall section.

THOUGHTS ?

Also---- ANYONE WANT TO MEASURE THEIR FIREBOX DIMENSIONS ?
Regency F2400, F3100
Osburn 2300, 2400

Thanks guys.  Supposed to make a choice Monday.

Jim

ps- all the replies are really appreciated and really helping.


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## charger4406

Regency F2400 
E-W=18"
N-S 15" floor or 17" to glass"
height is 10"


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## Lumber-Jack

charger4406 said:
			
		

> Regency F2400
> E-W=18"
> N-S 15" floor or 17" to glass"
> height is 10"



Charger you might want to recheck your measurements (or your model of stove), I have a Regency F2400 and read your measurements in the post above and wondered if my thinking that the fire box was square was wrong all these years???  Nope, I just got a tape measure and checked. The N-S measurement is a solid 18" front to back, to the glass would add a little more. All your other measurements are correct. I might add though that the door opening size is 17" x 7 3/4" .


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## jimmyb7

hey, is a 7.75: opening really enough to stog it with big wood?


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## Lumber-Jack

jimmyb7 said:
			
		

> hey, is a 7.75: opening really enough to stog it with big wood?


"Big" is relative to the size of firebox you have. There are some monster sized stoves out there that can take some "big" splits of wood, but for the size firebox the Regency has that is only 10" high, 7 3/4" is plenty. Keep in mind too, as long as one side of your firewood split is 7 3/4", or less, the other side can can be much bigger.


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## Justin M

Carbon_Liberator said:
			
		

> charger4406 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regency F2400
> E-W=18"
> N-S 15" floor or 17" to glass"
> height is 10"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Charger you might want to recheck your measurements (or your model of stove), I have a Regency F2400 and read your measurements in the post above and wondered if my thinking that the fire box was square was wrong all these years???  Nope, I just got a tape measure and checked. The N-S measurement is a solid 18" front to back, to the glass would add a little more. All your other measurements are correct. I might add though that the door opening size is 17" x 7 3/4" .
Click to expand...


X2 - His measurements are the same as my I2100 which was later replace by the 2400.


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## Lumber-Jack

Talking about "Big" splits got me thinking about when I first got my Regency stove. It was my first (only actually) EPA certified stove. I had not burned wood for many years and all my old stoves were old technology stuff (smoke dragons), and like most people learned with those old stove, if you want long burns you wanted to really load them up with "BIG" splits and let em smolder all night. It took me a while to realize that my new Regency doesn't respond to that kind of a burn very well. LOL I don't need those great big pieces for long burns anymore, I just make sure the stove is hot and coals are raked forward, and that those medium sized splits I have are packed fairly tight to the back (E-W is best), and turn down the draft for a nice long controlled burn.
The way I look at it, you are getting more out of less, a 7" round log in a new EPA stove is equivalent of a 10 or 12" log in an old stove.


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## dafattkidd

Carbon_Liberator said:
			
		

> Talking about "Big" splits got me thinking about when I first got my Regency stove. It was my first (only actually) EPA certified stove. I had not burned wood for many years and all my old stoves were old technology stuff (smoke dragons), and like most people learned with those old stove, if you want long burns you wanted to really load them up with "BIG" splits and let em smolder all night. It took me a while to realize that my new Regency doesn't respond to that kind of a burn very well. LOL I don't need those great big pieces for long burns anymore, I just make sure the stove is hot and coals are raked forward, and that those medium sized splits I have are packed fairly tight to the back (E-W is best), and turn down the draft for a nice long controlled burn.
> The way I look at it, you are getting more out of less, a 7" round log in a new EPA stove is equivalent of a 10 or 12" log in an old stove.



That's interesting, carbonlib.  You find this to be true even with all the log pole pine you burn?


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## Lumber-Jack

DaFattKidd said:
			
		

> Carbon_Liberator said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Talking about "Big" splits got me thinking about when I first got my Regency stove. It was my first (only actually) EPA certified stove. I had not burned wood for many years and all my old stoves were old technology stuff (smoke dragons), and like most people learned with those old stove, if you want long burns you wanted to really load them up with "BIG" splits and let em smolder all night. It took me a while to realize that my new Regency doesn't respond to that kind of a burn very well. LOL I don't need those great big pieces for long burns anymore, I just make sure the stove is hot and coals are raked forward, and that those medium sized splits I have are packed fairly tight to the back (E-W is best), and turn down the draft for a nice long controlled burn.
> The way I look at it, you are getting more out of less, a 7" round log in a new EPA stove is equivalent of a 10 or 12" log in an old stove.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's interesting, carbonlib. You find this to be true even with all the log pole pine you burn?
Click to expand...

I assume it's the (not needing large splits for long burns) part you find interesting (or surprising). As I said, I tried that, but what I found was it was harder to get the volume of wood in that I wanted. Bigger splits often meant bigger air gaps (just like when you are stacking), but by reducing the split size a little I found I could stuff more wood in the firebox. As long as I make sure I pull the coals away from the back before putting a load in, I can get the fire to burn evenly from front to back by controlling the draft. 
If I just throw those same splits on top of the coals they will burn from all sides and I'll end up with excessive off-gassing, and the wood will burn up too fast (especially if loaded N-S), which is the usual problem with softer woods. It's a little more work to pull all the coals to the front and stuff those pieces all the way to the back, so it's usually something I'll only bother with if I know I won't be reloading for a while and want to keep a fire going, otherwise I just toss the wood in, adjust the draft and let her rip.  :cheese:


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## dafattkidd

Yes that's what I meant.  Are you using a rake to do this?  I need to get a rake.  it get's annoying using the poker.  I noticed your stove isn't in your sig???  Also when Jimmyb7 starts asking about covering his wood are you going to melt his face off with your devastating woodshed/bomb shelter?  

Jimmy, sorry to get off topic.  
Here are the dimensions of the firebox:  
21 3/4â€ NS (to the glass)
23 EW
13 1/2" H

But there is a shelf in the front of the firebox that goes from the door into the firebox about 5" then drops down on an angle about 3" to the floor of the firebox.  From there it is about 16" from the bottom of the angle to the back fo the firebox. Hope that makes sense. This shelf keeps all ash and coals from falling out when you open the door.  I really like this shelf it is a great safety feature for front loaders.   

The opening is Width: 19 1/2" Height: 8 1/4"  (I do wish the door opening was higher)


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## Lumber-Jack

I made a rake (of sorts) out of an old stove shovel. Folded the flat shovel part over 90 deg and cut slits spaces out of the folded part, VoilÃ  rake!

You never know, Jimmy may already have a fine woodshed, Jimmy already burns, Jimmy just needs a new woodstove.
I hope Jimmy knows I'm just trying to be funny.  



BTW. I listed a lot of equipment in my signature, are you sure my stove isn't listed in there somewhere?


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## dafattkidd

Carbon_Liberator said:
			
		

> I made a rake (of sorts) out of an old stove shovel. Folded the flat shovel part over 90 deg and cut slits spaces out of the folded part, VoilÃ  rake!
> 
> You never know, Jimmy may already have a fine woodshed, Jimmy already burns, Jimmy just needs a new woodstove.
> I hope Jimmy knows I'm just trying to be funny.



sounds like that Sienfeld episode, "Jimmy likes Elaine."  "You're making Jimmy mad!"


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## charger4406

Checked my measurements again and they are right.
Back of stove reads Regency medium freestanding,
R3/R9 Jan 1991
I bought this stove from a friend many years ago,he had
told me it was a 2400 but by the age and size from what you 
guys are saying I'm guessing it's a 2100,still is a great stove anyways.
Come to think of it he may have said 2100


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## jimmyb7

I can appreciate the humor discussing one's wood, no worries (though I won't usually join in)

Rake the coals to the front ????  this has me perplexed... WHY?

My VC stove you just leave a bed there and drop wood directly on top.

*Please explain before committing to one of these types of stoves....*

___
Well guys - THANKS FOR THE REPLIES.

It looks like a fair fight between the Osburn 2300 and Regency 2400
The Osburn 2400 is a close second.
Decided against the Regency 3100 (too big)

****The big decision with Osburn is this --- *is the Bypass in the 2300 that big a deal?* 
In fact, it seems the 2300 has a TALLER firebox, Bigger door opening than 2400 and is only 1/2 inch shorter north-south than 2400.
So...Getting thr blower and Bypass for basically the same price seems logical ?

THOUGHTS?

Also-- anyone see any reason to go Regency 2400 over either of the osburns? (regency has a tiny 8" max opening height, and no special features to speak of...... also, the firebox seems to be only 15 inches ...17 inches to the glass)


((*ANYONE WITH THE OSBURN 2300...... Firebox depth, is the 18.5" to the Glass? or is it with an inch or two away from the door?  Book does not say.
ALSO - STAINLESS BAFFLE ? Does it not have Firebrick in the top like the 2400 and Regency models? *))

*THANKS !  --- we go back in with our decision tomorrow*


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## Lumber-Jack

jimmyb7 said:
			
		

> Rake the coals to the front ???? this has me perplexed... WHY?
> 
> My VC stove you just leave a bed there and drop wood directly on top.
> 
> *Please explain before committing to one of these types of stoves....*



It's not that I can't just drop wood on top of my coals, in fact I mentioned that that is exactly what I do most of the time, but to get the longest burns out of a given load of wood, the best technique is to pull the coals forward and load the back of the stove with wood, and burn the load from front to back. This is something I have seen many members of this forum say they do to get long, clean burns.
If you just throw the wood on top a hot bed of coals the coals will begin burning and baking the wood from below and it will start off-gassing (releasing the flammable gasses) and those gasses will (should) start to burn near the secondary burn tubes. When that happens your wood is effectively burning above, and below. If you are burning a hardwood, or wood that is higher in moisture content, this may be a good thing, but if you are burning dry softwood like I usually burn, what will happen is you'll get too much off gassing from the bottom and you won't be able to burn off all that excess gas without opening the air more (you'll be running too rich). If you open the air more you'll effectively end up burning your load faster and hotter, which may be what you want sometimes. If you don't want a faster, hotter burn, the solution is to adjust the coals and wood load so it only burns from one side (not two sides), that's why I (and many others) rake the coals to the front and put the new wood at the back for longer (clean) burns.

The ideal long burning load (in secondary tube stoves) would be to have the wood load on the bottom of the box and load the hot coals on the top of the wood, this would burn only from the top side thus keeping the cleaner burning secondary action going. But getting the wood on the bottom and the coals on top is kinda harder to accomplish than just raking the coals forward and placing the wood at the back.

Hope that clears up your question and you're not quite as "perplexed".   
As I mentioned before, I'm not familiar with the Osburn stoves, but I'll bet you could get longer burns in them as well, using the same method.


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## burleymike

I actually prefer to burn big splits. When I split my wood this fall I made about 1/3 of it 8"x8x20" just the right size to get through the door.  Since it has not been really cold lately I usually put a 3-4" split on the back bottom then one of the 8x8 splits on top.  The big split burns better on top next to the burn tubes.  I then place 2 smaller splits on top of each other in front of the 8x8 in the back.  I pack it all tightly which is not too hard since I split all my wood as square as possible.  

When it is really cold 5Â°F or less I will put 2 large splits in back to front and pack the front and bottom with smaller stuff.  It burns hot and long this way, too hot for these mild 25Â° nights.  My wife thinks I am nuts for loading the wood like a puzzle but it sure is nice to wake up to a 73Â° house in the morning.

I too rake the coals forward, I find that I can stack my wood in the back better without the coals in the way and secondly with the coals in the front they start to burn the fresh load from the front back which makes it burn longer.  If I just stack the load on top of the coals half of them die out and once the fire does start after much smoking it burns very hot and faster than I like.   I am burning only lodgepole so I cannot say how my stove would behave with hardwood.


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## Swedishchef

Jim,

Unfortunately you're asking the questions at the wrong time of the year. It's not easy to take a measurement with a fire going   HOwever, since I only have a bed of coals, I stuck my tape measurer inside for you. IT's 22.5-23 inches from the back firebrick (not to the back of the stove) to the glass door..so add another inch and that would give you a 23.5-24 inch depth. However, there is a ledge before the firebox. The 24 inches measurement is to the GLASS as you asked. The firebox itself (where the wood sits) is only about 20-21 inches deep.

There is no insulation on top of the baffle whatsoever. The baffle is made of a high temperature ceramic compound. It heats quite fast and give off secondaries quick as well. From a cold start I can get secondaries going in 15 minutes or so. According to Fyrebug who is an SBI (parent company of Osburn) rep, here's what he said about the Osburn baffle: "We use â€˜C-Castâ€™ in some of our premium brands and furnaces since it outperforms many of these in Strength, insulation, abrasion resistance, resistance to shrinking, weight loss & environmental exposure. It will handle close to 3,000 F. We use these not because it is less expensive, as a matter of fact it is much more expensive than all of the above but because it has a better overall performance. As far as breakage, well yes you can break them especially if a sweep do not remove them first and hit them with their brushes. From a user point of view, I cant understand how you would break one of those since the tubes are in the way, so logs would hit those first. Unless you are very over zealous with a poker itâ€™s not an issue. However, there is a 7 year warranty".

As I mentioned in a PM, the bypass is nice. Why a bypass? I presume it has to do with the exaust opening size. Once your chimney is warm (with the bypass open) close it the bypass, keep the door open for 10 mins and get the stove warm/hot. Close door, turn down the primary air and voila, you're set for hours. 

I loaded 2 bug pieces of maple at 10 AM and just reloaded with a big bed of coals.

Cheers

Andrew


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## jimmyb7

Swedishchef-   Thanks mate.  Exactly what I was looking for.....  So, the Baffle is a Ceramic, but inmy literature they claim Stainless Steel.  They say the baffle is connected to the tubes/pipes like one piece of metal ?

Thanks mate


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## Swedishchef

Hey Jim.

It is one integral unit. If you ever need to replace the baffle, the secondary air tubes go as well. All in one.

Like I posted above, the quote was from a company rep who is often on this forum (not sure why he has not posted here yet...). I am certainly pleased with the stove. I always find it comes down to 4 things (warning: I am not a pro like most people on this forum): what size house are you trying to heat, how much insulation do you have, how drafty is the house and get at least 2 years ahead on your wood pile...dry wood is key to this stove (or any non CAT EPA stove for that matter).

Andrew


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## FyreBug

jimmyb7 said:
			
		

> Swedishchef-   Thanks mate.  Exactly what I was looking for.....  So, the Baffle is a Ceramic, but inmy literature they claim Stainless Steel.  They say the baffle is connected to the tubes/pipes like one piece of metal ?
> 
> Thanks mate



Sorry guys, getting in late in the conversation. The 2300 is one of the few Osburn stove who doesn't use the C cast. If I stated as much in the past I apologize. Due to its design it is not possible to use this material. The baffle is thick stainless steel. See diagram below. 

Also, the 2300 is a 3.1 cu ft firebox while the 2400 is 3.2. Regency literature states F2400 at 2.3 and the F3100 at 2.9.


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## jimmyb7

Frybug !  Thank you...just could not picture it properly.

And thanks everyone.  We ARE going with an OSBURN (even though the store is not displaying the 2300 or 2400, ahhh) and even though the 2300 is more expensive than the bigger 2400, we are leaning that direction.

Right now the only thing stopping me from pulling the trigger on the 2300 is the C-Cast Baffle in the 2400  ---> Sustained Heat is the BIGGEST factor in our decision.  -17C nights with only 1 wood stove for heat guys..... burrrr if a weak choice is made.  And I'm seriously tired of getting up every 3 hours.

MANY THANKS !

Will let ya know how it goes. (pray for a couple warmer days so we can make a swap !)


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## jimmyb7

AND THE WINNER IS ........ (insert drum-role)
*
OSBURN 2400 !*

The one I didn't think we'd do.  I really have to take my hat off to our local store that sells these (and regency, and vc)
Gave us full freedom to pick what we needed.

And after talking with the fellow today (very knowledgeable) we had to agree and pass on the 2300.
As a past metalsmith, I'm too concerned with the long term affect on that thin metal bypass --- and when dealing with these high temps and extended time (we burn 24/7), all metal 1/8" and under (except for titanium) is going to buckle, at least enough to allow too much smoke to escape up the chimney.

I really wanted the 18 inch NS load and taller door opening, but he had a 2400 out back and showed me.  WOW  That's a big box !  And the 8 inch opening is surprisingly big enough to actually load the box.  16 inch NS and 20 inch EW is a nice thing I think -- plenty of creative puzzle making opportunities !

Now just gotta wait for it to get in.

*Anyone with a Osburn 2400 stove who wants to discuss how they get long burns, please feel free to PM me, it would be warmly welcomed (pun intended)*

THANK YOU FORUM.


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## FyreBug

jimmyb7 said:
			
		

> AND THE WINNER IS ........ (insert drum-role)
> *
> OSBURN 2400 !*
> 
> The one I didn't think we'd do.  I really have to take my hat off to our local store that sells these (and regency, and vc)
> Gave us full freedom to pick what we needed.
> 
> And after talking with the fellow today (very knowledgeable) we had to agree and pass on the 2300.
> As a past metalsmith, I'm too concerned with the long term affect on that thin metal bypass --- and when dealing with these high temps and extended time (we burn 24/7), all metal 1/8" and under (except for titanium) is going to buckle, at least enough to allow too much smoke to escape up the chimney.
> 
> I really wanted the 18 inch NS load and taller door opening, but he had a 2400 out back and showed me.  WOW  That's a big box !  And the 8 inch opening is surprisingly big enough to actually load the box.  16 inch NS and 20 inch EW is a nice thing I think -- plenty of creative puzzle making opportunities !
> 
> Now just gotta wait for it to get in.
> 
> *Anyone with a Osburn 2400 stove who wants to discuss how they get long burns, please feel free to PM me, it would be warmly welcomed (pun intended)*
> 
> THANK YOU FORUM.



congrats and let us know how it goes. Remember, it never really happened until you post pictures.


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## Swedishchef

Glad to hear that you pulled the trigger. I am certain that you will be pleased with your 2400. As Fyrebug mentioned, no pics=didn't happen 

Andrew


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## jimmyb7

Thanks Andrew.... you almost sold us on the 2300 til we got in there, and I considered the 1/8" steel over time.  Having a 2400 to actually see (luckily there was one out back in he crate still). WOW that is one big box, and the small opening isnt a problem.  We just have to get 1/2 our wood this year cut smaller.  Probably 1/2  18" and 1/2  16"

And yes folks, shall post a pick as soon as it's up and running !!

jim


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## dafattkidd

jimmyb7 said:
			
		

> Thanks Andrew.... you almost sold us on the 2300 til we got in there, and I considered the 1/8" steel over time.  Having a 2400 to actually see (luckily there was one out back in he crate still). WOW that is one big box, and the small opening isnt a problem.  We just have to get 1/2 our wood this year cut smaller.  Probably 1/2  18" and 1/2  16"
> 
> And yes folks, shall post a pick as soon as it's up and running !!
> 
> jim



Jim,  Congratulations!  That's awesome!  I do not think you will be disappointed in the heat output and burn times.  

As for cutting your wood: I get 19" in there NS no problem.  Honestly I get 20" in there NS sometimes.  I don't know what the length of your cuts are but EW burning is great in this stove. 22 1/2" fit in there fine EW.  One thing that surprised me and scared me a bit at first is the high temps I regularly get with this unit.  Most burns I'll get between 650-720 and cruise there for a couple of hours then slowly wind down.  It's a lot of mass so it really pours out the heat.  

If you've been burning wood for a while I don't think you'll have a hard time operating your 2400.  The owner's manual can be downloaded on the Osburn website.  It is very informative.  

As for burning techniques I do what most do on here.  Burn seasoned wood.  
-Rake the coals forward.  I load the unit NS mostly.  I feel I can get more wood in there and it's just easier to load.  I do burn EW a lot, too, but mostly because some of my wood is too long for NS.  
-When I load EW I rake the coals forward, and usually load my monsters in the back (I think I might start taking a cue from BurleyMike and place a medium split on the bottom and a monster on top).  One thing I always do when burning EW is I carve out a valley in the coals and ash right in the center of the firebox.  This helps with air flow.  I usually place small splits on top of the coals in the front to get it up to temp quick.  

So hope that helps.  Obviously I enjoy talking about the stove so please feel free to ask any questions you may have.  Good luck with it.  When will you have yours installed?  One warning: it took me a few days of burning to burn off the stink of the paint.  

Fyrebug,
I am assuming my insert is basically the same as Jim's stand alone but with legs and no jacket.  Am I wrong with this assumption?


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## nelraq

Too bad you didn't purchase the 2400 before the end of January.  Osburn was offering a free woodsplitter (electric I think -- retail value about $550) with the purchase of an Osburn stove.  Actually, I don't know if the offer was for any Osburn, but it was definitely on the 2400 --that was one of the stoves on my shortlist.  Would have chosen it, but I have approx 18 cords of wood on hand that is all cut to 21".  I didn't want to load E-W!

Maybe the dealer will backdate the invoice for you...Heck, it's only 6 days

Cheers!


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## jimmyb7

Hey,  where I am there were no noticeable promotions going on.  And, seeing as we bought the original VC stove last Spring and got full value in swapping it - I'm not worrying about it  LOL,    but thanks for thinking of me 8)

DFK---  19 inch NS ?  When I measured it, the inside was a TIGHT 16 inch NS.  I mean, 16 inch of firebrick.  There is the 2.5 inch or so ramp and then 2 inch or so metal lip before the door, but I assumed that area was left for clearance ?

Yeah, I'm just glad to be getting back to stacking a mix of NS and EW instead of the VC way of doing it.  And the pedestal is nice too.

Night for now.  Just loaded the Vc best I could (at 3am) to get us to 6-7am when my bro will add some and go to work.  Crazy schedule with this stove, let me tell you.

Night again

jb


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## FyreBug

The offer for Osburn for February is a free blower. You dealer should have this information on the Osburn calendar and its also available on the Osburn web site. 

Both the insert and stove uses the same firebox. However, the insert is not the stove without the ped. The insert has a special jacket for blower air flow and must go through a different safety certification in order to be classified an 'insert'.

Hope this helps.


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## hoffa

Hey bought my Osburn 2400 in December was there a promotion on then?


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## FyreBug

hoffa said:
			
		

> Hey bought my Osburn 2400 in December was there a promotion on then?



Sorry, in December there were no promotions. We run promos about 6 months of the year.


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## dafattkidd

I let the wood sit on the shelf. Usually when I pack it NS it's on a bit of a slant down towards the back of the firebox. I will pack it within 1/2" of the glass.


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## jimmyb7

1/2" to the glass ? Cool !
So I can get an 18" piece in NS then ?
That's better news.

Just waiting for the store to get it in,,,, ahhhhh, waiting  LOL


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## dafattkidd

jimmyb7 said:
			
		

> 1/2" to the glass ? Cool !
> So I can get an 18" piece in NS then ?
> That's better news.
> 
> Just waiting for the store to get it in,,,, ahhhhh, waiting  LOL



Jimmy, I'm not exagerating I get 20" NS. I usually try to keep it under 19" but it'll take 20" NS, and 22 1/2" EW. Its a large firebox. How many share feet are you looking to heat?


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## jimmyb7

1500 sqft total,  about 1/2 in front f the stove, 1/4 separated by a corner and to the side, and 1/4 down a long hall.


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## dafattkidd

1,500 sf.  You're in great shape.  You're gonna love it. 

What kind of wood are you burning?


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## jimmyb7

Hey, sorry, was down this morning - switched our multimedia over from Eastlink to BellAliant   Yeah !

((If anyone is on BeeAliant HD FiberOp..... do you notice if a channel has letterbox, that the bottom jumps a bit?))

My wood -- it's Birch and Rock Maple mostly.  Really High BTU output.

Just counting down the days til it comes in !


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## jimmyb7

GOT IT 

What a Beast !  Had to remove my front door to get it in the house !
I'll get photos of it burning up soon (already shot them)

Can already feel the heat, the wood caught immediately !  Just the low first fires with kindling and small bits to let it Off-Gas.
But it raises temp right away, with just some larger kindling and tiny splits.  Now added one small round (2") and a partial split - air cut back about 1/2, the temp is 500 

((starting a quick thread about secondary burn on this.... please check))

THANKS EVERYONE !   What a relief.

Jim


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## certified106

Sweet stove.... Congratulations!


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## livefast

dafattkidd said:


> Jim,  Congratulations!  That's awesome!  I do not think you will be disappointed in the heat output and burn times.
> 
> As for cutting your wood: I get 19" in there NS no problem.  Honestly I get 20" in there NS sometimes.  I don't know what the length of your cuts are but EW burning is great in this stove. 22 1/2" fit in there fine EW.  One thing that surprised me and scared me a bit at first is the high temps I regularly get with this unit.  Most burns I'll get between 650-720 and cruise there for a couple of hours then slowly wind down.  It's a lot of mass so it really pours out the heat.
> 
> If you've been burning wood for a while I don't think you'll have a hard time operating your 2400.  The owner's manual can be downloaded on the Osburn website.  It is very informative.
> 
> As for burning techniques I do what most do on here.  Burn seasoned wood.
> -Rake the coals forward.  I load the unit NS mostly.  I feel I can get more wood in there and it's just easier to load.  I do burn EW a lot, too, but mostly because some of my wood is too long for NS.
> -When I load EW I rake the coals forward, and usually load my monsters in the back (I think I might start taking a cue from BurleyMike and place a medium split on the bottom and a monster on top).  One thing I always do when burning EW is I carve out a valley in the coals and ash right in the center of the firebox.  This helps with air flow.  I usually place small splits on top of the coals in the front to get it up to temp quick.
> 
> So hope that helps.  Obviously I enjoy talking about the stove so please feel free to ask any questions you may have.  Good luck with it.  When will you have yours installed?  One warning: it took me a few days of burning to burn off the stink of the paint.
> 
> Fyrebug,
> I am assuming my insert is basically the same as Jim's stand alone but with legs and no jacket.  Am I wrong with this assumption?


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## livefast

How are you guys liking your osburn 2400? I looking into getting a wood stove. Be burning seasoned Oak and maple. Not sure of the osburn 2400 or the regency f3100? Any suggestions?  Thanks


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## dafattkidd

livefast said:


> How are you guys liking your osburn 2400? I looking into getting a wood stove. Be burning seasoned Oak and maple. Not sure of the osburn 2400 or the regency f3100? Any suggestions?  Thanks


Hey, I am very satisfied with the Osburn 2400 insert.  It heats like a beast.  I love the ability to burn long splits.  It has a large capacity for wood in the firebox. I'm not saying it's the best insert on the market, I'm just saying it works great for us.


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## Doublea88

Hey guys..Closing on a new house Monday and have been looking at the Osburn 2300 or 2400. I haven't heard of many issues with the stove and with research it seems to be a good stove. I'm leaving behind my old trusty St. Croix Pepin pellet stove for my pop's to have in our other place as he will be renting it out from us. This place has 5ac with a solid 3 1/2 being woods, thus the decision to go back to burning wood. I'm open to hearing about good steel stoves though in the next few days before I commit to the osburn.


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