# Shelter SF3100



## Gcj (Mar 6, 2019)

I have a 4mth old SF3100. I developed 2 cracks at the top of door on each side. I was told to send pictures of my set up. Once received they saw that a manual damper was installed on my chimney. Thet said that these caused the stove to over heat, hence the cracks. However, in the manual it recommends that a manual damper be installed. I am a little confused. Would the manual damper cause this problem?


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## begreen (Mar 6, 2019)

There is no correlation between a manual damper and overfiring unless the furnace was overheated due to forgetting to close the manual damper in a high draft situation. Is there any other evidence of the furnace running at very high temperatures? If not, it might be a design issue. Are the door opening corners radiused or cut square?


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## Mrpelletburner (Mar 6, 2019)

Gcj said:


> I have a 4mth old SF3100. I developed 2 cracks at the top of door on each side. I was told to send pictures of my set up. Once received they saw that a manual damper was installed on my chimney. Thet said that these caused the stove to over heat, hence the cracks. However, in the manual it recommends that a manual damper be installed. I am a little confused. Would the manual damper cause this problem?



I have the Fire Chief FC1500 and after removing a side panel, I discovered the firebox had developed a crack. They replaced the unit without issue.

When was your unit built? Should state it on the top right side panel.


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## Gcj (Mar 6, 2019)

begreen said:


> There is no correlation between a manual damper and overfiring unless the furnace was overheated due to forgetting to close the manual damper in a high draft situation. Is there any other evidence of the furnace running at very high temperatures? If not, it might be a design issue. Are the door opening corners radiused or cut square?


I have extreme warping on both sides of the fire box.
The door are slightly rounded at the corners.


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## Gcj (Mar 6, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> I have the Fire Chief FC1500 and after removing a side panel, I discovered the firebox had developed a crack. They replaced the unit without issue.
> 
> When was your unit built? Should state it on the top right side panel.


It was built in 2016. I bought it in August 2017.


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## begreen (Mar 6, 2019)

Gcj said:


> I have extreme warping on both sides of the fire box.
> The door are slightly rounded at the corners.


That sounds pretty bad. Is there any temperature monitoring devices on the unit or at least a thermometer on the door?


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## Mrpelletburner (Mar 6, 2019)

Gcj said:


> I have extreme warping on both sides of the fire box.
> The door are slightly rounded at the corners.


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## Mrpelletburner (Mar 6, 2019)

Gcj said:


> It was built in 2016. I bought it in August 2017.



You are not the first to have the front crack and I think the 2016/2017 units are going to be prone to cracks as they were still using spacer blocks to capture heat.

Assuming you have a tall chimney? Did you happen to measure the draft? The only other way to damage the firebox is to burn with the ash pan opened or burn lots of cardboard. Assuming they asked you if you did either?

Spacer welded to capture excess heat.








No spacer


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## Gcj (Mar 6, 2019)

begreen said:


> That sounds pretty bad. Is there any temperature monitoring devices on the unit or at least a thermometer on the door?


I have a thermometer on my chimney that never exceeds 350-400 degrees.


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## Gcj (Mar 6, 2019)

I never burn anything other than wood. Until yesterday the only wood that was burned in it was ash.


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## maple1 (Mar 6, 2019)

Gcj said:


> I have a 4mth old SF3100. I developed 2 cracks at the top of door on each side. I was told to send pictures of my set up. Once received they saw that a manual damper was installed on my chimney. Thet said that these caused the stove to over heat, hence the cracks. However, in the manual it recommends that a manual damper be installed. I am a little confused. Would the manual damper cause this problem?



There is no subtle way to say this - they are full of BS.

Fully, completely.


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## Mrpelletburner (Mar 6, 2019)

Gcj said:


> I have a thermometer on my chimney that never exceeds 350-400 degrees.



Is temperature gauge measuring the surface or inner temperatures?

Can you describe your chimney setup, location (middle of the house or outside wall) and height?

Were you measuring the draft and tried to set via a manual damper? 

From my experience, you would have to get that fire box glowing hot in order to really damage the unit. I still think this is an early unit and some early units have cracked.

Are they replacing the unit? 

As unreliable as these units are, HY-C has been very good at standing by their product.


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## brenndatomu (Mar 6, 2019)

Gcj said:


> Once received they saw that a manual damper was installed on my chimney. Thet said that these caused the stove to over heat, hence the cracks. However, in the manual it recommends that a manual damper be installed. I am a little confused. Would the manual damper cause this problem?





maple1 said:


> There is no subtle way to say this - they are full of BS.
> 
> Fully, completely.


Yup, what maple said...100% full of crap...as in: running out of their ears full.
A manual damper will only reduce draft, which reduces the firebox and flue temperatures too...a damper, manual or auto (barometric) will never increase draft (firebox/flue temperature)
These guys at HY-C really need to go back to school...because this is "Chimney 101" stuff that they seem to not have _one iota_ of understanding on...


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## brenndatomu (Mar 6, 2019)

Gcj said:


> I never burn anything other than wood. Until yesterday the only wood that was burned in it was ash.


Doesn't sound like you did anything wrong...these things are a really poor design...and the manufacturer doesn't seem to understand how to install them so they don't over fire...which is what causes cracks in 4 months.


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## Mrpelletburner (Mar 6, 2019)

Any chance you can post up some photos of the damage?


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## Gcj (Mar 6, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> Is temperature gauge measuring the surface or inner temperatures?
> 
> Can you describe your chimney setup, location (middle of the house or outside wall) and height?
> 
> ...





Mrpelletburner said:


> Any chance you can post up some photos of the damage?





brenndatomu said:


> Yup, what maple said...100% full of crap...as in: running out of their ears full.
> A manual damper will only reduce draft, which reduces the firebox and flue temperatures too...a damper, manual or auto (barometric) will never increase draft (firebox/flue temperature)
> These guys at HY-C really need to go back to school...because this is "Chimney 101" stuff that they seem to not have _one iota_ of understanding on...


I thought I was missing something. I burned wood for the past 10 years with a hot blast always using the damper to adjust my fire. That is why I was confused with their explanation.


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## Gcj (Mar 6, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> Any chance you can post up some photos of the damage?


Here are 3 pictures of the fire box.


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## brenndatomu (Mar 6, 2019)

Gcj said:


> Here are 3 pictures of the fire box.


4. Months. Old.  
Hey HY-C...if y'all readin this...this is what _not_ controlling chimney draft does for ya! Buy a stinkin clue guys! 
Oh, and you guys owe this fellah a new furnace...


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## Mrpelletburner (Mar 6, 2019)

Gcj said:


> Here are 3 pictures of the fire box.



I am not a fan of the SS panels as mine are also warped, just not that bad. 

Wonder if the panels were installed without the ceramic backing as they look folded in.

Willing to bet that the panels warped, allowing heat behind the panel and that is what cracked the firebox. 

Hands down, they should replace that unit.


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## Mrpelletburner (Mar 6, 2019)

If you remove the screws for the top panel and the 3 on each side of the front panel. That will allow you to lift the top up slightly and pull the front panel off. With the panel removed, look inside and see if you have further damage.


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## maple1 (Mar 6, 2019)

Gcj said:


> Here are 3 pictures of the fire box.



Wow, what a train wreck.


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## JRHAWK9 (Mar 6, 2019)

maple1 said:


> Wow, what a train wreck.



Got that right!  
Hy-C, hands down, gives all of us entertainment here on this forum, unfortunately, at the expense of others.


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## Medic21 (Mar 7, 2019)

Is HY-C a division of Portage and Main?

Sounds like they same song and dance of the customer is always wrong...

Asking for a friend of course...


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## Medic21 (Mar 7, 2019)

Oh yeah, mine is extremely efficient now.  Haven’t used this low amount of wood in years.   It looks really good on the scrap pile too.


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## Gcj (Mar 7, 2019)

Medic21 said:


> Is HY-C a division of Portage and Main?
> 
> Sounds like they same song and dance of the customer is always wrong...
> 
> Asking for a friend of course...


I am not sure.


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## maple1 (Mar 7, 2019)

Gcj said:


> I am not sure.



I think he was being sarcastic, a little bit.

[Good luck with this, BTW...]


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## Gcj (Mar 7, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> If you remove the screws for the top panel and the 3 on each side of the front panel. That will allow you to lift the top up slightly and pull the front panel off. With the panel removed, look inside and see if you have further damage.


I need to remove both warped side panels, which they are going to replace. However, I'm not sure if that's feasible due the warpage.


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## Mrpelletburner (Mar 7, 2019)

Do you have an angle grinder? You could always use a cut off wheel. Even if you replaced the panels, you still have the cracks?

If you haven't already, remove all the outside panels and inspect all the welds. Would be shocked if you don't have a cracked weld.

What is weird is how much the SS warped as there is a sold ceramic brick behind the SS panel. I would have assumed that the ceramic brick would have helped the SS panel hold it's shaped.

Last... when you did have the unit working, were you able to achieve a 12-hour burn?


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## Gcj (Mar 7, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> Do you have an angle grinder? You could always use a cut off wheel. Even if you replaced the panels, you still have the cracks?
> 
> If you haven't already, remove all the outside panels and inspect all the welds. Would be shocked if you don't have a cracked weld.
> 
> ...


I do have an angle grinder, great idea, thanks. I questioned that once I replace these with the new ones what will guarantee it from happening again. I was told that the newer panels would not warp. This maybe due to the ceramic back which the older model did not have. I would still a very hot base of coals after a 10-12 hr night.


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## Mrpelletburner (Mar 7, 2019)

Gcj said:


> I would still a very hot base of coals after a 10-12 hr night.



At that 10- 12 hr marker, is the distribution blower still cycling enough to keep the house warm? I can only get a max of 8 hours until the distribution blower no longer can keep up.


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## Medic21 (Mar 7, 2019)

Gcj said:


> I am not sure.



That was in reference to an ongoing boiler issue that the company was adimate that the customer was wrong.  Recently it was found to be a manufacturing defect. 

It was sarcasm but, HY-C will continue to find reasons to blame the customer install.  They are a crappy company with a worse product.


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## Gcj (Mar 7, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> At that 10- 12 hr marker, is the distribution blower still cycling enough to keep the house warm? I can only get a max of 8 hours until the distribution blower no longer can keep up.


No, it is not. The draft motor is still running due to the thermostat calling for heat but that's it. I did reset the pin settings which helped with a little longer burn times.


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## Mrpelletburner (Mar 7, 2019)

Gcj said:


> I did reset the pin settings which helped with a little longer burn times.



Pin settings?


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## Gcj (Mar 7, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> Pin settings?


This model came with 3 factory pin settings. One for when the distribution fan kicks on, one for when it kicks off, and a safety pin for when it gets too hot.


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## Mrpelletburner (Mar 7, 2019)

Gcj said:


> This model came with 3 factory pin settings. One for when the distribution fan kicks on, one for when it kicks off, and a safety pin for when it gets too hot.



The high limit controller on the back. I am assuming you lowered the setting for when the distribution blower kicks on and kicks off?


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## Gcj (Mar 7, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> The high limit controller on the back. I am assuming you lowered the setting for when the distribution blower kicks on and kicks off?


Yes


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## Highbeam (Mar 7, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> What is weird is how much the SS warped as there is a sold ceramic brick behind the SS panel. I would have assumed that the ceramic brick would have helped the SS panel hold it's shaped.



The brick is an insulator. It just made the SS panel that much hotter and it melted into the firebox. They will bow into the fire because heat expands things and the hot side was towards the fire.


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## Mrpelletburner (Mar 7, 2019)

Gcj said:


> I do have an angle grinder, great idea, thanks. I questioned that once I replace these with the new ones what will guarantee it from happening again. I was told that the newer panels would not warp. This maybe due to the ceramic back which the older model did not have. I would still a very hot base of coals after a 10-12 hr night.



Do let us know what you discover. Assuming you might not be able to remove until you receive permission from HY-C.

If the unit has any cracks in the firebox, I would be shocked if they refused to replace the unit. Other then not being able to assist with extended heat output, I can’t complain with their support when it comes to replacing parts or the unit.


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## sloeffle (Mar 8, 2019)

Medic21 said:


> Oh yeah, mine is extremely efficient now.  Haven’t used this low amount of wood in years.   It looks really good on the scrap pile too.


Have you blown it up yet ?


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## brenndatomu (Mar 8, 2019)

sloeffle said:


> Have you blown it up yet ?


Tannerite + video =


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## Medic21 (Mar 8, 2019)

sloeffle said:


> Have you blown it up yet ?



Not yet.  Been too busy hauling wood and working.


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## sloeffle (Mar 10, 2019)

brenndatomu said:


> Tannerite + video =


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## Mrpelletburner (Apr 10, 2019)

Gcj said:


> Here are 3 pictures of the fire box.



How did everything work out? Were you able to finish the season and do you think you will continue with the unit next season?


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