# Hand Splitting Technique



## DTrain (Oct 22, 2015)

So recently in threads there's been discussion about hand splitting vs power splitting. Lots of talk about the toll it can take on your body. I enjoy the splitting and I enjoy the sore muscles to a point. But I don't like joint pain or repetitive motion pain. I have tried to tweak my swing and my processing method to allow me to keep splitting with out suffering as much. Thought I'd share what I do. 

First, the natural tendency is to raise the mail with your top hand near the head and the bottom hand near the foot and lift it up from there. 





You can see that the right elbow takes the 8lbs at its max distance from the joint (f=mxd).  And you open up your right shoulder. 




Then you put a lot of weight and motion to one side of your body.  When you repeat these motions the right elbow and shoulder take most weight and work. 

I like to try to keep every thing in the middle. 




Place both hands under the head and lift straight up. Both shoulders elbows and wrists sharing the load. 




Then at the top. I slide my bottom hand down first and bring my top hand down next. 




When I do this I try to keep a grip like a batter ready to bunt. Good control but loose. I think you can see my top hand isn't even completely around the handle. Let the tool take up the force and vibration. You already supplied the force in the down swing.  No need to grip tight on impact.  This saves the wrists and forearm fatigue. You can see my knees are bent. I continue to squat thru to impact. This keeps my back straighter and the quick squatting adds some velocity I believe. 

After impact I return the maul to a Center position. 




I slide my top hand toward the head. Then the bottom hand while the maul is inverted. Then with both hands at the head I turn the maul up right. And repeat!  It's a few carefully choreographed motions that takes time to get down but it like anything becomes second nature.  

I also split right on the ground. No unnecessary lifting. And I use a frame as some may have seen in another post I made. 




These things allow me to split for a couple hours at a time and not feel too bad for it. I stop at the first sign of pain as well. Listen to the body!

I hope this is helpful. And let me know if you have any hand splitting tips to share!


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## bboulier (Oct 22, 2015)

Even better - get a Fiskar's splitting axe.  I found that to be a huge gain in efficiency.


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## barmstrong2 (Oct 22, 2015)

Vicodin. Better living through modern chemistry.


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## DTrain (Oct 22, 2015)

barmstrong2 said:


> Vicodin. Better living through modern chemistry.



Good movie!  Sam Rockwell.


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## barmstrong2 (Oct 22, 2015)

DTrain said:


> Good movie!  Sam Rockwell.


I think I might have picked that line up from Nick Nolte in North Dallas Forty some years ago. Lol


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## DTrain (Oct 22, 2015)

barmstrong2 said:


> I think I might have picked that line up from Nick Nolte in North Dallas Forty some years ago. Lol



It's the title if a newer movie about a pharmacist. Pretty funny


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## DTrain (Oct 22, 2015)

bboulier said:


> Even better - get a Fiskar's splitting axe.  I found that to be a huge gain in efficiency.



Hmmm.... I want to know more about this tool. The fiskars site really only says it's awesome. But not much else. 

What where why is it good.


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## TedyOH (Oct 23, 2015)

I'll give quick 3 week review on the Fiskars X27;
I've went from a home made 15 lb monster maul to an 8 lber, what a joy that was, then bought this Fiskars based on reading other reviews, it's a tad heavier than a standard axe and for it's weight I am really impressed on how well it will split. Now for what it will split, straight grain wood is where it shines - I find that if a round has any sort if knot in it, it will or may get hung up....But if you knock the knotty stuff in half or quarters with a heavy maul then knock off chips with the Fiskars you will have no problems - bottom line for me is fatigue, I can split probably 4 times as long with the fiskars vs the 8 lber. Oh yeah, the steel is very soft (and very sharp) so you have to stack rounds, run this axe in the ground a few times and you will ruin the edge....well worth the $50


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## HowieSubGuy (Oct 23, 2015)

TedyOH said:


> I'll give quick 3 week review on the Fiskars X27;
> I've went from a home made 15 lb monster maul to an 8 lber, what a joy that was, then bought this Fiskars based on reading other reviews, it's a tad heavier than a standard axe and for it's weight I am really impressed on how well it will split. Now for what it will split, straight grain wood is where it shines - I find that if a round has any sort if knot in it, it will or may get hung up....But if you knock the knotty stuff in half or quarters with a heavy maul then knock off chips with the Fiskars you will have no problems - bottom line for me is fatigue, I can split probably 4 times as long with the fiskars vs the 8 lber. Oh yeah, the steel is very soft (and very sharp) so you have to stack rounds, run this axe in the ground a few times and you will ruin the edge....well worth the $50



I agree with everything said, TedyOH. I found that the SPEED of the splitter is much more important that the weight of the head of the maul/axe (see Newtons 2nd law), which is why (1) you can swing the Fiskars much faster and safer than a maul (2) you can swing this 2lb thing all day without killing your back (3) you find that your aim is much better, therefore confidence goes up, and trips to the ER go way down (4) you aren't whooped at the end of the day (5) most importantly, you can bring the axe straight above your head for the strike, instead of "going around your body" with an 8lb maul. 

In short, my opinion: the Fiskars is a way safer, easier, and faster way to hand-split wood. Why use anything else? My $0.02.


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## Woody Stover (Oct 23, 2015)

DTrain said:


> I don't like joint pain or repetitive motion pain. I have tried to tweak my swing and my processing method to allow me to keep splitting with out suffering as much.


I strained a muscle between my shoulder blade and spine and it's still not 100%, three years later. I don't hand-split the tough stuff, I break out the power splitter; Need to preserve this old body.  I can swing roundhouse for a while but if I have to split for a long time I'll use a center swing. I hold the handle at the end with both hand and let the maul hang straight down behind my back with my elbows bent all the way. Then I'll squat and stand up to get the maul moving. I then pull my hands down toward the round, like I'm trying to stick the end of the handle into the round. Centrifugal force will throw the maul head out will pull the handle into line with my arms by the time it gets to the round. I'll see if I can get some pics. I can get a little more speed with the roundhouse motion so I use that if I need to.
The Fiskars has its place. It's just a lightweight ax, so if you are into some stuff that's harder to split, it doesn't have the arse to bust through and the head gets stuck in the round. Mine is lost in the woods somewhere so I just replaced it with a Michigan ax at half the price. My go-to tool is a 6# maul; Light enough to swing pretty easily, yet has enough inertia  to bust through. I go to the 8-pounder if needed. I grind the leading edge to a more shallow angle.


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## gerry100 (Oct 23, 2015)

My technique about the same as the OP, after 38yrs and a million swings I actually don't know how I swing, it just happens.

Assume that accuracy and timing is there , increases in velocity exponentially increases impact energy while adding mass ( weight) increases are linear. So speed is the answer.

But, our physiology, both natural and individual, places limits on our swing speed. ie you can't swing a 1lb axe fast enough to make up for the lost mass nor can you make a maul massive enough to overcome the loss in speed. We basically have a terminal velocity with our swing.
I started with a 6lb and moved up to an 8lb about 20 yrs ago as my swing got more grooved. I think I'm getting the max impact energy deliverable from my body and an accurate swing.

I got to this point with a lot of sweat, wasted swings and broken handles. 

If I were starting now, I'd try a Fiskars. Using sharpness and head shape the Fiskars allows a more easily controlled swing because of the lower mass and allows people without a lot of reps to split more wood sooner. Don't think it would do anything for me at this point


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## jaoneill (Oct 23, 2015)

I now split 99% of my wood with hydraulics but have split more than my share with a maul over the last 45 years. I am sure this is nothing new here, but back when I was getting started an old timer clued me in to a trick that became second nature and served me well for years. A slight twist of the wrist as the leading edge hits the wood. It compounds the downward force with lateral force from the weight of the head. It also virtually eliminates having the edge stuck in a difficult piece.


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## DTrain (Oct 23, 2015)

HowieSubGuy said:


> I agree with everything said, TedyOH. I found that the SPEED of the splitter is much more important that the weight of the head of the maul/axe (see Newtons 2nd law), which is why (1) you can swing the Fiskars much faster and safer than a maul (2) you can swing this 2lb thing all day without killing your back (3) you find that your aim is much better, therefore confidence goes up, and trips to the ER go way down (4) you aren't whooped at the end of the day (5) most importantly, you can bring the axe straight above your head for the strike, instead of "going around your body" with an 8lb maul.
> 
> In short, my opinion: the Fiskars is a way safer, easier, and faster way to hand-split wood. Why use anything else? My $0.02.



Hey, Thanks for that.  And also to @TedyOH for the review. At 2lbs sounds about right that it can do a great job on straight grain stuff.  And I would like a smaller tool to deal with small rounds, a couple inches around.  The 8# is definitely like shooting  squirrel with a shot gun with those small rounds.  Dunno if I'll spend the $60 on a Fiskars for the few small ones I do have to split. 

I never round house with my maul (8#), always straight up over my head then down.  See pic.

@HowieSubGuy I used to live in Gales Ferry.  I see you're SE CT.  I miss kayak fishing in the Thames.


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## DTrain (Oct 23, 2015)

gerry100 said:


> My technique about the same as the OP, after 38yrs and a million swings I actually don't know how I swing, it just happens.
> 
> Assume that accuracy and timing is there , increases in velocity exponentially increases impact energy while adding mass ( weight) increases are linear. So speed is the answer.
> 
> ...




Good point about the physiology.  I'm 6'3" / 200# / 37 yo.  But I feel like I don't have very stout wrists or elbows for extended splitting, that's why it's important for me to take care of the ergonomics of my swing.  I think I'd like to try having 6# maul then.  I can swing my 8# just fine, but may be able to get some faster head speed and have more endurance. Most of my wood is larger rounds and at least half has knots or wyes.  So 2lbs won't work for that.  

So far from the replies, I think I could refine the splitting processes by having splitting axe for small stuff, a 6# for general splitting and an 8# for nasty stuff.


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## DTrain (Oct 23, 2015)

Woody Stover said:


> I can swing roundhouse for a while but if I have to split for a long time I'll use a center swing. I hold the handle at the end with both hand and let the maul hang straight down behind my back with my elbows bent all the way. Then I'll squat and stand up to get the maul moving. I then pull my hands down toward the round, like I'm trying to stick the end of the handle into the round. Centrifugal force will throw the maul head out will pull the handle into line with my arms by the time it gets to the round.
> View attachment 164903
> View attachment 164904



Boy Woody, if I'm imagining that description correctly, it sounds like I could perform that swing about 5 times before going to the doctor!!  I know from my own swing when I want some more punch i'll tend to arch my back to get some whip action, and that hurts!  I'll take a few extra swings at something with my normal swing if I must.  I try my best not to over do it.  Injury is not an option for me.  I will however employ that swing if I'm ever at the county fair and want to win my darling a teddy bear at the "High Striker" game!


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## sportbikerider78 (Oct 23, 2015)

I just got frustrated because it is so hard to drink beer and have smoke when splitting by hand.   

For me, I do not have rounds delivered at this point in the game.  I typically go out somewhere on my property, drop a tree, buck it, and start splitting on site.  This is where a splitter really shines.  I don't have to find good footing, make sure I don't slip, make sure the round has a good solid surface...ect.  

I can tow that splitter anywhere behind my ATV that I can safely drop a tree.


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## DTrain (Oct 23, 2015)

sportbikerider78 said:


> I just got frustrated because it is so hard to drink beer and have smoke when splitting by hand.
> 
> For me, I do not have rounds delivered at this point in the game.  I typically go out somewhere on my property, drop a tree, buck it, and start splitting on site.  This is where a splitter really shines.  I don't have to find good footing, make sure I don't slip, make sure the round has a good solid surface...ect.
> 
> I can tow that splitter anywhere behind my ATV that I can safely drop a tree.




Dammit..... Look at that!  Even on a thread titled Hand Splitting Technique we got a power guy sticking his head in the door and yelling "get a splitter nerds!".  

Kidding of course.... I would love to have a property were I could harvest my own wood. Good on ya!!  And you're right about there being situations where a splitter is absolutely the right way to go.


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## spirilis (Oct 23, 2015)

jaoneill said:


> I now split 99% of my wood with hydraulics but have split more than my share with a maul over the last 45 years. I am sure this is nothing new here, but back when I was getting started an old timer clued me in to a trick that became second nature and served me well for years. A slight twist of the wrist as the leading edge hits the wood. It compounds the downward force with lateral force from the weight of the head. It also virtually eliminates having the edge stuck in a difficult piece.


That's something I want to get into with experience, don't have the muscle memory and accuracy yet but someday... It's the basic principle behind this rather pricey axe- http://www.leveraxe.com/


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## drz1050 (Oct 23, 2015)

DTrain said:


> So far from the replies, I think I could refine the splitting processes by having splitting axe for small stuff, a 6# for general splitting and an 8# for nasty stuff.



This is pretty much exactly what I do. The axe eye 6# maul is used 90% of the time. I also have a few wedges for the real big rounds.


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## gerry100 (Oct 23, 2015)

My maul almost never gets stuck, I do "break my wrist" downward at the end to get a little more speed.

Seems like an axe swing would benefit more from the side twist at impact.

( BTW - I think spliiting axes and mauls are two different animals and people like one or the other base on what they learned with , if I were to use an axe I think my swing would have to change a lot)


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## gerry100 (Oct 23, 2015)

DTrain said:


> Boy Woody, if I'm imagining that description correctly, it sounds like I could perform that swing about 5 times before going to the doctor!!  I know from my own swing when I want some more punch i'll tend to arch my back to get some whip action, and that hurts!  I'll take a few extra swings at something with my normal swing if I must.  I try my best not to over do it.  Injury is not an option for me.  I will however employ that swing if I'm ever at the county fair and want to win my darling a teddy bear at the "High Striker" game!
> 
> View attachment 164914



Used my splitting experience to almost ring the bell. Those things have a viscous damper in them somewhere and are also designed that has to be hit at the right angle to work. That's why the skinny kid running it can ring the bell any time he wants, he knows the sweet spot.


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## jatoxico (Oct 23, 2015)

I use the Fiskars on most everything and don't find a heavier maul to be a big benefit on knarly stuff. It is sometimes easier to set a maul or wedge and pound it through with a sledge though. I rarely take full force swings with whatever I'm using.

One thing I do on knots and crotches is to take advantage of how sharp the Fiskars axes are. Lay nasty stuff on it's side and _cut_ through the knot. This is pretty effective.


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## Woody Stover (Oct 23, 2015)

That guy in the pic is _never _gonna ring the bell with that swing!  Terrible technique. For one, his elbows are bent, reducing his arc width. And he's not getting much speed because, in golf terminology, he's "swinging from the top"....."lost his lag" and "released too early." Look at the golf swing of a pro on slo-mo video; The club shaft doesn't come into line with his arms until he hands are almost to the ball. Half way down, the shaft is still at 90* to his arms.


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## TedyOH (Oct 23, 2015)

Woody Stover said:


> That guy in the pic is _never _gonna ring the bell with that swing!  Terrible technique. For one, his elbows are bent, reducing his arc width. And he's not getting much speed because, in golf terminology, he's "swinging from the top"....."lost his lag" and "released too early." Look at the golf swing of a pro on slo-mo video; The club shaft doesn't come into line with his arms until he hands are almost to the ball. Half way down, the shaft is still at 90* to his arms.



Those pink sandels don't help either.


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## HowieSubGuy (Oct 23, 2015)

DTrain said:


> Hey, Thanks for that.  And also to @TedyOH for the review. At 2lbs sounds about right that it can do a great job on straight grain stuff.  And I would like a smaller tool to deal with small rounds, a couple inches around.  The 8# is definitely like shooting  squirrel with a shot gun with those small rounds.  Dunno if I'll spend the $60 on a Fiskars for the few small ones I do have to split.
> 
> I never round house with my maul (8#), always straight up over my head then down.  See pic.
> 
> @HowieSubGuy I used to live in Gales Ferry.  I see you're SE CT.  I miss kayak fishing in the Thames.



Yep, the Thames will be here whenever you want to visit. Question: where are you buying a $60 Fiskars? I got mine for $30 at homedepot.com two years ago. Shipped right to my house in two days.


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## Rebelduckman (Oct 23, 2015)

DTrain said:


> Hmmm.... I want to know more about this tool. The fiskars site really only says it's awesome. But not much else.
> 
> What where why is it good.



That about sums it up! I was hesitate at first until I bought one


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## Woody Stover (Oct 23, 2015)

TedyOH said:


> Those pink sandels don't help either.


Yeah, no spikes.


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## sportbikerider78 (Oct 23, 2015)

DTrain said:


> Dammit..... Look at that!  Even on a thread titled Hand Splitting Technique we got a power guy sticking his head in the door and yelling "get a splitter nerds!".
> 
> Kidding of course.... I would love to have a property were I could harvest my own wood. Good on ya!!  And you're right about there being situations where a splitter is absolutely the right way to go.


Yep...i don't ride a horse to work anymore either.  

For the record,,,I hand split about 3-4 cord this year.


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## Paulywalnut (Oct 23, 2015)

My problem is I'm never sore while I'm working. Two days later is when I feel like I've been hit by a large truck. I always have to think, what did I do to be hurting like this.


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## barmstrong2 (Oct 25, 2015)

I built this thing last year and split a little more than 5 cord with it. I didn't use it this season as I had use of a hydro. The wedge is made of a discarded cutting edge from one of our municipal plows. I saw this on YouTube and I just had to make one. The one on YouTube was quite a bit lighter than mine. The wedge alone weighs just over 100 lbs. Not too bad to work with once you get the hang of it. I split most everything from cedar kindling to big gnarly yellow birch uglies.




Here's a YouTube video splitting some cedar kindling with the Magic Wood Chopper. (As dubbed by my wife)


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## DTrain (Oct 25, 2015)

Does the trick, eh!


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## Little Digger (Oct 25, 2015)

I still prefer to use a splitting axe over a maul of any kind or weight. I just can't see beating myself half to death with a 15# wedge on a pipe or 8# maul. Even a 6# maul is only used when absolutely necessary.  

Yesterday for grins I used a "boys axe" to split up some rounds. Amazingly it worked fairly well considering the thing weighed a pound and a half with maybe a 2 foot hickory handle. My "Go To" splitting axe is the Fiskars X27 though.


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## TedyOH (Oct 25, 2015)

barmstrong2 said:


> I built this thing last year and split a little more than 5 cord with it. I didn't use it this season as I had use of a hydro. The wedge is made of a discarded cutting edge from one of our municipal plows. I saw this on YouTube and I just had to make one. The one on YouTube was quite a bit lighter than mine. The wedge alone weighs just over 100 lbs. Not too bad to work with once you get the hang of it. I split most everything from cedar kindling to big gnarly yellow birch uglies.
> View attachment 165138
> 
> 
> Here's a YouTube video splitting some cedar kindling with the Magic Wood Chopper. (As dubbed by my wife)





I wonder if that thing has OSHA's stamp of approval? Ouch....


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## barmstrong2 (Oct 25, 2015)

TedyOH said:


> I wonder if that thing has OSHA's stamp of approval? Ouch....


The video looks scary, but, the cutting edge is no where near hitting my hand. It's very controllable and precise. The arm is balanced closely with the strut spring and it takes little effort to pull the wedge down into the wood. It worked better than I'd hoped, really.


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## TedyOH (Oct 25, 2015)

Yeah it looks like you have the hang of it, I just have a feeling I wouldn't be so lucky!


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## xman23 (Oct 25, 2015)

I use the same 8lbs maul. I start with a pendulum swing on my right side. Bringing the maul up centered over my head. With two hands together at the end of the handel I start the downward motion. Head speed is the key. If it's tearing you up, you should try a 6 lbs maul. Force = mass x velocity squared.


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## MikoDel (Oct 25, 2015)

Good thread. I made some discoveries this year. I scanned every post on this thread (so far) and I have some quick replies...

Swing - Mine has always been two hands at the bottom of the handle, maul straight down my back, and then over my head in a center line with my legs widely spaced apart. Once I get the round into smaller pieces, of course I cycle much more quickly with half and quarter swings, like the video below. I'm talking about the mighty swings. At the last minute I try to "snap" more velocity into it from my wrists and isolate my shoulders and back from the impact. That last instant I consciously try to not "put my back into it", letting the maul do the work. I have bulging discs aplenty and 2 back surgeries - I don't punish my back or my shoulders. And of course I'm visualizing the maul splitting hitting the chopping block, going straight thru the round of firewood! Like a martial arts pro breaking bricks. 

- Top tips -

**Use something to contain/manage the round as you split it, like a light truck tire on a nice big chopping block. This video changed my life...

After seeing it for the first time about 3 years ago, I couldn't believe I EVER did it any other way. WHAT A TIME SAVER!! (Yes, you'll need two chopping blocks, one without the tire for the big rounds, before you split them down enough to fit inside the tire.)

**Leave plenty of room around your chopping block so you can circle and destroy!

**Stand on a 2 or 3" piece of evenly cut round, to get extra height and velocity in your swing. I'm only 5'6", 145lbs. Strong for my size, but that trick really helps for the hard-case pieces. And my yard is pitched downhill, so I work with that, not against it, when setting up.

- TOOLS -

The Fiskars X27 has an edge that's like a Henckels kitchen knife. I mean no s__t, this thing is wicked sharp. Downside is, the edge is delicate, cause the relief (knife talk) is nothing like we have come to expect from mauls. As a matter of fact, as I'm writing this, I'm realizing, there is NO RELIEF in the edge grind!! The edge starts and ends in one single angle. Sucks for durability but makes for easy sharpening. Just position the file flush against the blade and it finds the optimum sharpening angle. Of course you still gotta have a feel for what you're doing, but it's very easy to get right.

After swinging the Fiskars X27 for only a couple of days, the blade had serious nicks and burrs that had to be filed away. If you can't sharpen, you won't realize the full joy of owning this thing. Still even with the imperfections in the blade, it was still performing beautifully.

- TOP TIPS for the Fiskars X27 -

**Swing with your feet WIDE WIDE WIDE apart. IF THIS THING hits your leg or foot, you are in SERIOUS trouble. It's way too nasty, do not drop your guard with this axe!!

**The blade does not get stuck easily, but of course there will be times when you will have to rock it out of your cut. KEEP YOUR FINGERS AWAY from the blade when you are dislodging it.

**This edge is a knife edge. To really get it back, you have to finish with a smaller file, and some fine passes. A bigger crosscut is fine to clean it up, but if you wanna run your finger over that blade and cry YAHTZEE!! you gotta go smaller.

More if you're interested...

This year I lost all romantic attachment to my "home store" 8 lb maul that I've had for 10 years or so. The cutting edge was never even straight, what a bee-otch it is to sharpen. (black head, yellow handle)  I don't have my hand-me-down hydraulic log splitter any more. Gave it away. Too tired of the squirrels eating the gas tank and fuel lines, and buying a carbuerator a year cause of all the ethanol damage. But I also decided I'm an idiot not to take a closer look at "maul science". I knew that old 8 lb thing was BS. I feel really great in terms of strength, muscles and joints (more on that later) so I wasn't afraid of splitting all this wood by hand. Got a late start, but it's old wood so a lot of the moisture is already gone.

A cool friend lent me the two monster mauls (welded, all steel, worn red paint), a "light" one and the big bada boom. I had ordered the Fiskars X27, and I was almost regretting it before it came, thinking "You got the use of those others for free, why the hell did you spend $60???" cause the monster mauls were pretty good. The smaller MM is the go-to, and WORLDS better than that poor performer 8 lb maul I had been using for years. But, only a day after I took possesion of my lender monster mauls, the Fiskars came UPS. And that story I already told you.

Now for the last... How come at 52 yrs old I can still swing a maul for hours a day, day after day? No serious shoulder damage after using a Silky saw in a tree for hours... except for minor aches and pains... NO arthritis pain in my hands despite obvious osteo arthritis nodes... no more sciatica or back pain... only need 6 hours sleep...

It's cause of SOUL and CORE.

http://www.myrainlife.com/184794

I'm telling you, SOUL nutritional supplement by Rain Int'l saved my effin' life. My MCL in my knee FINALLY HEALED permanently after YEARS of limping around like a dog. I can RUN up and down stairs now, when only one year ago my MCL (some call it a TCL) was so delicate I couldn't go to the next step until both legs were on the one below. After being on SOUL for one month, my knee was strong and I started to lose weight. I am down from 177 to 147. My diet was always 90% vegetarian. My eating habits have not changed except that I also do green smoothies sometimes now. My cholesterol went down 50 points!! This stuff is GOLD, liquid GOLD. Every morning, I take one CORE and one SOUL, before, during or after my coffee. I am distributor #184794. In order to try it, you have to plug in someone's number. Use mine, or use someone else's. But TRY IT.

http://www.myrainlife.com/184794

I love seed nutrition and I think I will take it forever. And they give you a money back guarantee, so definitely TRY IT! I swear it saved my youth. I am no longer scared about getting older. A year ago, I thought, if I feel this way now, good God, what the heck's gonna happen 10 years down the road? But since SOUL and CORE, I'm good. Yes, you can make it into a business and a money maker, but I take it first and foremost for health and strength. Independently verified by Brunswck Labs, it makes your cells last 62% LONGER!! That's CRAZY

Don't let that unsplit wood pile intimidate you

God Bless!!

Miko


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## mwhitnee (Oct 26, 2015)

HowieSubGuy said:


> Yep, the Thames will be here whenever you want to visit. Question: where are you buying a $60 Fiskars? I got mine for $30 at homedepot.com two years ago. Shipped right to my house in two days.



Different prices for different lengths.  Amazon has 28 inch $45 and 36 inch (for taller users) $55.


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## sportbikerider78 (Oct 26, 2015)

xman23 said:


> I use the same 8lbs maul. I start with a pendulum swing on my right side. Bringing the maul up centered over my head. With two hands together at the end of the handel I start the downward motion. Head speed is the key. If it's tearing you up, you should try a 6 lbs maul. Force = mass x velocity squared.


Likely should use the impact force to slow something down...not a modified acceleration formula.
_F = 1/2 m v2 / s_

...where s = distance stopping force is applied..in this case the length of a split. 

Want to not kill your shoulders?  Cut shorter splits and use a lighter maul.

I find this site really helpful when you find yourself pontificating real life engineering calculations.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/impact-force-d_1780.html


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## DTrain (Oct 26, 2015)

"Ok let's go split some wood.... Fiskars? Check. 8# Maul? Check. Graphing calculator? Check!


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## DTrain (Oct 26, 2015)

MikoDel said:


> Good thread. I made some discoveries this year. I scanned every post on this thread (so far) and I have some quick replies...
> 
> Swing - Mine has always been two hands at the bottom of the handle, maul straight down my back, and then over my head in a center line with my legs widely spaced apart. Once I get the round into smaller pieces, of course I cycle much more quickly with half and quarter swings, like the video below. I'm talking about the mighty swings. At the last minute I try to "snap" more velocity into it from my wrists and isolate my shoulders and back from the impact. That last instant I consciously try to not "put my back into it", letting the maul do the work. I have bulging discs aplenty and 2 back surgeries - I don't punish my back or my shoulders. And of course I'm visualizing the maul splitting hitting the chopping block, going straight thru the round of firewood! Like a martial arts pro breaking bricks.
> 
> ...




I'm on a super strict Super Bassomatic '76 diet.


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## xman23 (Oct 26, 2015)

sportbikerider78 said:


> Likely should use the impact force to slow something down...not a modified acceleration formula.
> _F = 1/2 m v2 / s_
> 
> ...where s = distance stopping force is applied..in this case the length of a split.
> ...



I was pointing out the velocity was exponential.


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## MikoDel (Nov 4, 2015)

DTrain said:


> I'm on a super strict Super Bassomatic '76 diet.
> 
> View attachment 165261


 HA HA HA HAAAAAHHHHHH!! I remember that one!!


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## MikoDel (Nov 4, 2015)

DTrain said:


> "Ok let's go split some wood.... Fiskars? Check. 8# Maul? Check. Graphing calculator? Check!


 Yeah really ri-eeeeeet???? These boyz got some big brains here on this-here site, here.


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## MikoDel (Nov 4, 2015)

And yesterday I spent about an hour splitting with the smaller of the two monster mauls. And that thing is PRETTY INCREDIBLE as well. It has a very sharp edge, but weighs probably like 10 or 12 lbs. Excellent tool as well, especially when targeting the outside edges of your rounds. Total performance. Just gotta be able to swing it is all! It's borrowed, so I want to get my use out of it before letting go.


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## Vikestand (Nov 4, 2015)

TedyOH said:


> Yeah it looks like you have the hang of it, I just have a feeling I wouldn't be so lucky!



I have the feeling I'd be wearing my wedding band around my neck after using that contraption.


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## Vikestand (Nov 4, 2015)

MikoDel said:


> Yeah really ri-eeeeeet???? These boyz got some big brains here on this-here site, here.



My brains got me a degree in beer drinking and chasing womens in college. I use my muscles developed from the 12ounce curls to split these here large rounds.


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## Little Digger (Nov 4, 2015)

xman23 said:


> Head speed is the key. If it's tearing you up, you should try a 6 lbs maul. Force = mass x velocity squared.



How would one explain using a boys axe (21" hickory handle) and being able to split some fair sized rounds (12 to 20" across) of black locust, walnut, and I think cherry? I did that for grins a couple of weeks back. The rounds were 20 to 24 inches in length. It was fun and hilarious at the same time.


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## Chucking Wood (Dec 3, 2015)

DTrain said:


> we got a power guy sticking his head in the door and yelling "get a splitter nerds!".



Man, that gave me such a chuckle I finally created a login (after lurking a couple days) just say thanks for the laugh!


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## DTrain (Dec 4, 2015)

Chucking Wood said:


> Man, that gave me such a chuckle I finally created a login (after lurking a couple days) just say thanks for the laugh!




Nice!  If I can't be helpful, at least I can be funny. 

Welcome to the forum.  I'm honoured to bestow upon you your first "like"!  It's a good time in here.


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## sportbikerider78 (Dec 4, 2015)

MikoDel said:


> Yeah really ri-eeeeeet???? These boyz got some big brains here on this-here site, here.


Nothing discussed here is all that complicated.  I love science!


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## Oldman47 (Dec 4, 2015)

Little Digger said:


> How would one explain using a boys axe (21" hickory handle) and being able to split some fair sized rounds (12 to 20" across) of black locust, walnut, and I think cherry? I did that for grins a couple of weeks back. The rounds were 20 to 24 inches in length. It was fun and hilarious at the same time.


If you actually are able to use the slightly twisted axe method it can be very effective. I have no such skill so I use a brute force approach and my Fiskars axe, the black handled version of the X-27. Actually I am finding it a bit easier to use after a few months of practice and when I pay close attention I find I am not holding it straight to the wood but at a bit of an angle on impact. Maybe I am getting a bit of that twisting motion myself.


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## BrotherBart (Dec 4, 2015)

Learning the snap of the wrist at contact with the round works wonders. Learned it many years ago. A natural habit anymore.


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## iluvjazznjava (Dec 5, 2015)

If you don't know how - learn to swing both ways.  I alternate which hand is at the bottom and top of the shaft with every piece I split.  Cuts down a lot on fatigue and I'm just about as good and accurate from either side.


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## Little Digger (Dec 5, 2015)

Oldman47 said:


> If you actually are able to use the slightly twisted axe method it can be very effective. I have no such skill so I use a brute force approach and my Fiskars axe, the black handled version of the X-27. Actually I am finding it a bit easier to use after a few months of practice and when I pay close attention I find I am not holding it straight to the wood but at a bit of an angle on impact. Maybe I am getting a bit of that twisting motion myself.


My go to splitting axe is the Fiskars X27. I probably would have used it instead of the boys axe, but I wasn't at home. I was over lending a hand splitting some wood. There were a couple other guys there, one running the hydraulic splitter, one staging and moving the splits to where it was stacked by another. Since I was the one staging and moving, I had noticed the boys axe in the trailer of the one with the splitter and decided to give it a go. I did quit using it when the head was starting to come off as I didn't want to break the handle. It was fun and funny as heck at the same time using such a tiny axe. Next year I'll bring along all of my wood splitting tools, especially the Fiskars!


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