# Top Covering Done Right



## 7acres (Feb 24, 2016)

Well I purchased 100' X 10' of black 6 mil plastic to cover my stacks. I cut it down the middle so I had 2 5' wide pieces. I top covered my loooong stack (probably 75' long) and my short stack (~20'). I stack on pallets three splits deep. That makes for pretty much exactly 5' wide front to back. I was doubtful the splits I put on top to act as paperweights would hold it down in high wind.

Well today we got high wind. And my covers blew off. The thought occurred to me last week that a nice solution might be to staple it down to the wood (with a plastic card in between so the wind wouldn't just pop the plastic right through the staple). And have staples every 2' the entire circumference. Is that a good idea? Do you have an even better idea?


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## velvetfoot (Feb 24, 2016)

How about more splits on top?


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## drz1050 (Feb 24, 2016)

Big, ugly knotty splits on top along the edges..


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## 7acres (Feb 24, 2016)

The thing about the black plastic is that it's slippery. Like it's Teflon coated. Any wind that grab an edge of the plastic will slide the splits around. Eventually I think the splits will slide around in high wind.


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## jkbemdavis (Feb 24, 2016)

Interesting post.  I know the plastic sheeting that you speak of because I bought some for my kids to use as a slip and slide this summer... and yes, it is slippery.  I myself don't use it as a wood covering.  The piles that I have right near my stove are covered by a nice agricultural duty tarp from Harbor Freight.  The rest goes on the barn.  But for what it's worth... I use nice, heavy, knotty pieces on top of the tarp... and plenty of them.  It flaps around plenty, but doesn't come off the pile.


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## Hickorynut (Feb 24, 2016)

7acres said:


> Well I purchased 100' X 10' of black 6 mil plastic to cover my stacks. I cut it down the middle so I had 2 5' wide pieces. I top covered my loooong stack (probably 75' long) and my short stack (~20'). I stack on pallets three splits deep. That makes for pretty much exactly 5' wide front to back. I was doubtful the splits I put on top to act as paperweights would hold it down in high wind.
> 
> Well today we got high wind. And my covers blew off. The thought occurred to me last week that a nice solution might be to staple it down to the wood (with a plastic card in between so the wind wouldn't just pop the plastic right through the staple). And have staples every 2' the entire circumference. Is that a good idea? Do you have an even better idea?


I do the exact same as you did with the black plastic.  Only thing you need to do to make it stay is get you a hammer stapler with I think 3/8 inch staples but not sure offhand(my stapler is a bostich).  I start 11/2 ft. down one side up and over and about the same down the other side.  What I do to help keep the plastic from ripping off the staples is to  fold the ends and double it before you staple.  Pull it tight too down the other side before you staple the other side.  Tight but not were the rounds on the top might poke through.  Doing it this way my 6mil black plastic has held up in the direct hot sun for 5-6 years and still okay with no leaks.  Hope this helps.


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## husky345 vermont resolute (Feb 24, 2016)

I like my steel roofing. 4'x 30" sheets. Works out perfectly


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## Gboutdoors (Feb 24, 2016)

I use lumber tarps 20'x4' stack 2 1/2 cords on 20'x4' pallets from plastic trim boards. Staple them down with 5/8" staples. They last all winter then I uncover them for the summer and recover the next fall. These tarps are tough and have not pulled free even in the big wind storms we have been having. Best thing is they are free from my lumber yard.


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## Firefighter938 (Feb 25, 2016)

Gboutdoors said:


> I use lumber tarps 20'x4' stack 2 1/2 cords on 20'x4' pallets from plastic trim boards. Staple them down with 5/8" staples. They last all winter then I uncover them for the summer and recover the next fall. These tarps are tough and have not pulled free even in the big wind storms we have been having. Best thing is they are free from my lumber yard.
> View attachment 175676



I like the looks of that. Very nice.


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## TedyOH (Feb 25, 2016)

I'd put the plastic away until the fall then figure something out.....


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## sportbikerider78 (Feb 25, 2016)

A guy near me uses old milk gallon jugs with water in them to weight down the tarps.  Even if there are no eyelets on the tarp you can just put a string across and connect two together.  

It may not win a better homes and gardens front cover, but you may not really care.


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## 7acres (Feb 25, 2016)

sportbikerider78 said:


> A guy near me uses old milk gallon jugs with water in them to weight down the tarps.  Even if there are no eyelets on the tarp you can just put a string across and connect two together.
> 
> It may not win a better homes and gardens front cover, but you may not really care.



Ooh, this concept has potential!


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## 7acres (Feb 25, 2016)

TedyOH said:


> I'd put the plastic away until the fall then figure something out.....



I did this last year. But a good portion of the splits from some old partially rotten standing dead oak I dropped just soaked up rain all Spring and Summer. I ended up having to shave it all off when I brought it to the front porch for burning. Big pain. There's always a bit of rotten wood in the stacks somewhere. I try to stack it in the middle row now. Top covered year round should turn that rot into perfectly dry kindling after it's 3-year dry. That's why I prefer my stacks top covered year round.


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## Flame On (Feb 25, 2016)

I noticed you stack on pallets, so my method might work… I was using bricks to weigh down plastic sheets and they were a pain, so I tried the milk and detergent container method, but then one of my kids decided to dump them out and make a mud puddle to play in. Sigh.

So, I had some left over C brackets from another job. I screwed them in to the pallets every few feet with a corresponding one on the other side. I just tie the rope across the top of the pile to hold the plastic on. Over time I’ve added a short bungee cord to the end of each rope to give me some flexibility and make it easier to unhook.

I realize this might sound cumbersome, but I don’t have a wood shed, so I need something to keep snow, rain and leaves off the pile through the fall and winter. In the summer, the pile goes topless


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## beatlefan (Feb 25, 2016)

Hickorynut said:


> I do the exact same as you did with the black plastic.  Only thing you need to do to make it stay is get you a hammer stapler with I think 3/8 inch staples but not sure offhand(my stapler is a bostich).  I start 11/2 ft. down one side up and over and about the same down the other side.  What I do to help keep the plastic from ripping off the staples is to  fold the ends and double it before you staple.  Pull it tight too down the other side before you staple the other side.  Tight but not were the rounds on the top might poke through.  Doing it this way my 6mil black plastic has held up in the direct hot sun for 5-6 years and still okay with no leaks.  Hope this helps.


That is exactly what I do. Works great when you fold the edge a couple of times and staple it.


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## 7acres (Feb 25, 2016)

So I liked the concept behind the milk jug idea. I bought a spool of braided nylon mason's line. Then instead of tying on milk jugs on each end I used bowline knots to tie a split on each end. I spaced each one about 6' apart. We still have strong winds today and the plastic sheet is not moving! 

Thanks for the idea, sportbikerider.


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## baseroom (Feb 25, 2016)

Rocks and bricks! Scrounged on the side of the road!


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Feb 25, 2016)

I understand why you think you need to top cover your wood but that moisture you are talking about is just surface moisture.  I get significantly drier wood if I just leave my stacks exposed while seasoning and then move under cover when it's ready to be burnt.  Even that wood with rot will dry super fast once there is a sunny day.


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## bboulier (Feb 25, 2016)

I just put splits of wood on top of the tarps.  Sometimes redistributing the wood under a tarp helps keep it in place.


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## BrotherBart (Feb 25, 2016)

Too many posts to read, but if you use plastic or tarps put scrap cardboard under it to keep the wind from sandpapering its way through the top cover creating leaks.


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## weatherguy (Feb 26, 2016)

My tarps were a mess this morning after last night's storm. Top priority to finish the wood shed next month.


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## Vikestand (Feb 26, 2016)

You have all spring and summer to ponder your solution. I think most agree that you're not gaining anything by covering during this time?


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## peakbagger (Feb 26, 2016)

I don't believe in top covering that wraps down over the sides. Moisture tends to rise when it leaves the stacks and flows out the top. When I have tried top covering I find ice under the tarp. As long as its open on couple of sides this doesn't happen. I usually compromise by putting pallets on top of my wood pile and covering the top of the pallet with the a tarp and wrapping it down over the stack on the windy side but keeping the other sides of the pallets open. This allows the moisture to escape.


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## Bad LP (Feb 26, 2016)

I built a shed. Problem solved.


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## mass_burner (Feb 26, 2016)

CentralVAWoodHeat said:


> I understand why you think you need to top cover your wood but that moisture you are talking about is just surface moisture.  I get significantly drier wood if I just leave my stacks exposed while seasoning and then move under cover when it's ready to be burnt.  Even that wood with rot will dry super fast once there is a sunny day.


Oh no you didn't!


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## billb3 (Feb 26, 2016)

I cover my stacks for the same reasons I  protect my deck wood with a rain water protectant , keep  the painted trim on my house painted and cover my plywood wood roof with asphalt shingles. Wood rots and decays. From constantly wetting and drying. Stop the wetting and you stop the decaying.
Pretty freaking simple concept.


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Feb 26, 2016)

mass_burner said:


> Oh no you didn't!


I did.  Should I not have?


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## St. Coemgen (Feb 26, 2016)

Bad LP said:


> I built a shed. Problem solved.


*
The best reply.*

For the wood to use this year: put in a shed nearest as possible to the door nearest the stove.

The wood for next year, or the year after that, just let it weather normally. Tarps are not _usually_ needed unless you live in a place with a great deal of late summer rains.

Drying wood is to get rid of *vascular* metabolic moisture from the tree when it was alive. A bit of rain and snow this year on next year's wood (stack the upper layer bark side up) will be sucked out just fine this coming summer.


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## mass_burner (Feb 26, 2016)

CentralVAWoodHeat said:


> I did.  Should I not have?


Not unless you want to start a freggin war.


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## Vikestand (Feb 26, 2016)

billb3 said:


> I cover my stacks for the same reasons I  protect my deck wood with a rain water protectant , keep  the painted trim on my house painted and cover my plywood wood roof with asphalt shingles. Wood rots and decays. From constantly wetting and drying. Stop the wetting and you stop the decaying.
> Pretty freaking simple concept.



You plan on keeping your wood around as long as the trim in your house?


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## billb3 (Feb 26, 2016)

Vikestand said:


> You plan on keeping your wood around as long as the trim in your house?


I've been 5 to 7  years ahead.
I don't burn  even marginally good enough.
I take burning as clean as possible seriously.


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## maple1 (Feb 26, 2016)

7acres said:


> Well I purchased 100' X 10' of black 6 mil plastic to cover my stacks. I cut it down the middle so I had 2 5' wide pieces. I top covered my loooong stack (probably 75' long) and my short stack (~20'). I stack on pallets three splits deep. That makes for pretty much exactly 5' wide front to back. I was doubtful the splits I put on top to act as paperweights would hold it down in high wind.
> 
> Well today we got high wind. And my covers blew off. The thought occurred to me last week that a nice solution might be to staple it down to the wood (with a plastic card in between so the wind wouldn't just pop the plastic right through the staple). And have staples every 2' the entire circumference. Is that a good idea? Do you have an even better idea?



You just need more wood on top, simple. No jugs, staples or rope required. I do the same as this, except 2 splits wide. One full layer of wood on top of the tarp, doesn't go anywhere.


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## Poindexter (Feb 27, 2016)

There is no one beset answer here that can be applied in all the places all the registered users here live.


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Feb 27, 2016)

7acres said:


> Well I purchased 100' X 10' of black 6 mil plastic to cover my stacks. I cut it down the middle so I had 2 5' wide pieces. I top covered my loooong stack (probably 75' long) and my short stack (~20'). I stack on pallets three splits deep. That makes for pretty much exactly 5' wide front to back. I was doubtful the splits I put on top to act as paperweights would hold it down in high wind.
> 
> Well today we got high wind. And my covers blew off. The thought occurred to me last week that a nice solution might be to staple it down to the wood (with a plastic card in between so the wind wouldn't just pop the plastic right through the staple). And have staples every 2' the entire circumference. Is that a good idea? Do you have an even better idea?


Dick Proenneke used the black plastic to cover the roof of his cabin and my folks used it to cover the pool in the winter when I was a kid, much to the neighbors chagrin.  I like it and would use it if I came across any of suitable size for my stacks.  My wood rots faster than I can use it if I don't cover the top, plus it keeps the debris off.  I don't like the idea of stapling it to the stacks, seems like a pain to administer.  I am going to try the corner weighting system that has been described here, easy on, easy off.


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## maple1 (Feb 27, 2016)

The problem with corner weighting, is wind can still get under in between where it's weighted. My tarping was a fail until I started simply putting a full layer of wood on top of it. I get a lot of wind though.


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## velvetfoot (Feb 27, 2016)

I do the lotta wood method too.  Even if some of the splits are soaking in water, the splits will dry, even if you don't use them for that season.


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Feb 27, 2016)

maple1 said:


> The problem with corner weighting, is wind can still get under in between where it's weighted. My tarping was a fail until I started simply putting a full layer of wood on top of it. I get a lot of wind though.


Good tip.  I'll add a few old bricks and flat rocks to the top.  That's what i have been doing, but the edges blow up.  Corner weights and top weights may just do it.


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Feb 27, 2016)

mass_burner said:


> Not unless you want to start a freggin war.


Haha!  I absolutely do not.  Thank you for showing me the error of my ways.  Besides, the non-coverers would win because the coverers would be too busy covering and chasing their covers in the wind


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## TheBigIron (Feb 27, 2016)

Gboutdoors said:


> I use lumber tarps 20'x4' stack 2 1/2 cords on 20'x4' pallets from plastic trim boards. Staple them down with 5/8" staples. They last all winter then I uncover them for the summer and recover the next fall. These tarps are tough and have not pulled free even in the big wind storms we have been having. Best thing is they are free from my lumber yard.
> View attachment 175676


Where did you purchase those tarps from?


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## mass_burner (Feb 27, 2016)

CentralVAWoodHeat said:


> Haha!  I absolutely do not.  Thank you for showing me the error of my ways.  Besides, the non-coverers would win because the coverers would be too busy covering and chasing their covers in the wind


I'm a firm believer in top covering, bottom, side, end covering too-- it's called a shed.


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## Gboutdoors (Feb 27, 2016)

The46Zone said:


> Where did you purchase those tarps from?


I am a contractor road salesmen for a lumber yard here in Mass. We sell tons of a product called  Kleer it is a plastic substitute for wood trim. It comes in 20' lengths so I take the pallets and the covers for wood stacking. If you check your local lumber yard I am sure they would give you the pallets and the tarps free or for a small fee.

I like being able to stack 2 1/2 cords on a pallet at a time it's neat and easy to plan out what you have and need.


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## Seanm (Feb 27, 2016)

Like @Poindexter said there is no right or wrong answer because it depends on your location. I chuckle at the posters that say theres no need to top cover. Tell that to someone living in Washington or on Vancouver Island or heck to me living in the Canadian Rockies,,,, anyways. 
I top cover with tarps and hate it although Im pretty good at keeping the stacks half assed dry. I just use lots of wet, crappy splits to hold them down and then in winter theres so much snow on top that they dont go anywhere.  Some of my stacks are in racks that have plywood on them and that seems to work better. Ive heard the milk jug idea before and like the sounds of it but during the summer I just use rounds to hold the tarps in place.


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## mass_burner (Feb 27, 2016)

Seanm said:


> Like @Poindexter said there is no right or wrong answer because it depends on your location. I chuckle at the posters that say theres no need to top cover. Tell that to someone living in Washington or on Vancouver Island or heck to me living in the Canadian Rockies,,,, anyways.
> I top cover with tarps and hate it although Im pretty good at keeping the stacks half assed dry. I just use lots of wet, crappy splits to hold them down and then in winter theres so much snow on top that they dont go anywhere.  Some of my stacks are in racks that have plywood on them and that seems to work better. Ive heard the milk jug idea before and like the sounds of it but during the summer I just use rounds to hold the tarps in place.


If you live in a place like you describe, why wouldn't you take a weekend and put up a simple shed. I'm no carpenter by any means, and I managed to do it.


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## Seanm (Feb 27, 2016)

mass_burner said:


> If you live in a place like you describe, why wouldn't you take a weekend and put up a simple shed. I'm no carpenter by any means, and I managed to do it.


I dont have the space, 50 x 110 lot with a 1300 sq ft foot print for the house plus a single attached garage (holds amongst other things 3/4 of a cord). The rest of the property is taken up by a dog kennel which is 13 x 18 (holds two racks with plywood roofs) plus a garden shed, trampoline,,, you get the idea.


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## mass_burner (Feb 27, 2016)

Seanm said:


> I dont have the space, 50 x 110 lot with a 1300 sq ft foot print for the house plus a single attached garage (holds amongst other things 3/4 of a cord). The rest of the property is taken up by a dog kennel which is 13 x 18 (holds two racks with plywood roofs) plus a garden shed, trampoline,,, you get the idea.


You can't find a 4' x 8' space anywhere? Can you use the foot print of one of your stacks?


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## Seanm (Feb 28, 2016)

mass_burner said:


> You can't find a 4' x 8' space anywhere? Can you use the foot print of one of your stacks?


I think the key for me is to try and find a space that the wife and I can agree on. I have a spot behind this picture where our fire pit is that might be sacrificed for the better good lol. Weve been looking at buying a portable fire pit that we can move around which would free up some space but its hard to justify spending $150 on a fire pit that wont heat the house ;-). Heres a picture of the tarp covered stacks that Im not impressed with (I love the wood btus and the sweat I put into it just not the way I store it). To put it in perspective this is 3-3.5 cords, double rows, 18 inch splits of standing dead. I have a hard time figuring how to top cover all this with a shed idea. I know the practical side of it but dealing with the city can be a problem ie maximum lot coverage with structures etc. I have a client who is changing out a metal roof so I can get lots of that but how will my neighbor feel about the hail and rain noise? Anyways not the end of the world but I agree I can improve. I have bush behind my lot that I can probably store a cord but I have to make it look like a non permanent structure and it gets almost no sun. Thanks for your suggestions @mass_burner  I appreciate it.


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## firestorm (Feb 28, 2016)

Couple of years ago, had a friend taking down a round above ground swimming pool. He talked me into taking the metal side to use as a cover for my stacks. It works well enough I have been looking for more.  A major drawback is the weight. I rool up enough to cover one row and roll it onto the front loader forks and position it on top of the end and unroll it on the row. Without the loader it would be a 2 or man job at least. As the wood is used the end falls and stays on the wood and lays on the pallets.  I leave enough hanging over the end to drive a couple spikes through the metal. No problems with it staying on. But if it had to be manhandled it would be difficult.


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## Highbeam (Mar 2, 2016)

I live in wet western WA and have found that top covering with plastic  leads to wet wood. The water runs down the sides of the splits and keeps them wet. Farther down you go, the wetter it is. Rain doesn't just fall down it blows sideways.

Metal roofing is much better because it hangs over and extends beyond the wood. Weigh it down so the metal doesn't blow away. Still, the bottom portion of the stacks will get wet from windblown rain.

A woodshed is the answer. Only needs to be big enough for one year's wood but a shed divided in half with each half large enough for a full winter's wood is ideal. Then you can skip the lame covering issues.


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## Jeffm1 (Mar 3, 2016)

7acres said:


> Well I purchased 100' X 10' of black 6 mil plastic to cover my stacks. I cut it down the middle so I had 2 5' wide pieces. I top covered my loooong stack (probably 75' long) and my short stack (~20'). I stack on pallets three splits deep. That makes for pretty much exactly 5' wide front to back. I was doubtful the splits I put on top to act as paperweights would hold it down in high wind.
> 
> Well today we got high wind. And my covers blew off. The thought occurred to me last week that a nice solution might be to staple it down to the wood (with a plastic card in between so the wind wouldn't just pop the plastic right through the staple). And have staples every 2' the entire circumference. Is that a good idea? Do you have an even better idea?


Build a woodshed.


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## onetracker (Mar 10, 2016)

i top cover only for long-term outdoor storage. I tack the cover down with plastic cap nails to keep the wind from getting under it and this has worked well for me.


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## iron (Mar 10, 2016)

Highbeam said:


> I live in wet western WA and have found that top covering with plastic  leads to wet wood. The water runs down the sides of the splits and keeps them wet. Farther down you go, the wetter it is. Rain doesn't just fall down it blows sideways.
> 
> Metal roofing is much better because it hangs over and extends beyond the wood. Weigh it down so the metal doesn't blow away. Still, the bottom portion of the stacks will get wet from windblown rain.
> 
> A woodshed is the answer. Only needs to be big enough for one year's wood but a shed divided in half with each half large enough for a full winter's wood is ideal. Then you can skip the lame covering issues.



highbeam: do you then leave your stacks uncovered for a year of seasoning before moving them into the shed for the next year?

this is my first year burning wood (started collecting in august). my plastic covering seems to be fine so far. my stacks are next to a cedar fence (property line) so i think the overall wind is lower there. not great for air circulation, but seems to be okay for keeping the worst of the pacific NW ferocity off the wood. 
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/where-to-stack-next-what-would-you-do.153232/


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## Highbeam (Mar 10, 2016)

iron said:


> highbeam: do you then leave your stacks uncovered for a year of seasoning before moving them into the shed for the next year?
> 
> this is my first year burning wood (started collecting in august). my plastic covering seems to be fine so far. my stacks are next to a cedar fence (property line) so i think the overall wind is lower there. not great for air circulation, but seems to be okay for keeping the worst of the pacific NW ferocity off the wood.
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/where-to-stack-next-what-would-you-do.153232/



No wood shed yet for me. I leave the stacks uncovered (over two years) until the fall before I plan to burn that wood and then I top cover. The metal roofing works much better than the 6 mil plastic.

The wood top covered with either plastic or metal is good enough to burn but with the cat stove I really notice the difference that dry wood makes. Since I have a non-cat stove also, I save wetter pieces for the non-cat. They dry out faster than green wood once brought inside the barn but they sometimes still hiss.


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## Sprinter (Mar 10, 2016)

If you are going to top cover only, I really like Jason753's rack method in this thread: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/my-drying-racks.153913/

His racks are build single width and with metal roofing screwed on top of the racks so that you don't have to shuffle the covers around when you use the wood or add wood.  It's nearly as effective as a shed and probably a good solution for a lot of climates.  And being single wide there is not excuse for insufficient air flow, although it would take a lot more space that way.


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## jeffesonm (Mar 11, 2016)

I've had good luck with lumber tarps stapled to the top row of splits.  As someone else mentioned, folding the tarp/plastic over itself a few times helps keep it from ripping through.


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## Seanm (Mar 11, 2016)

jeffesonm said:


> I've had good luck with lumber tarps stapled to the top row of splits.  As someone else mentioned, folding the tarp/plastic over itself a few times helps keep it from ripping through.


Ive heard lots of people trying this with pretty good success but Ive never actually asked for any at the lumber store. Maybe I should satisfy my curiosity.


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## Pat32rf (Mar 11, 2016)

The first 10 years I was burning deadfalls and tops from before we bought the property. Built a shed that held a little over 3 bush cords. Then we added another house and started cutting live trees so I built two more sheds which were roof and back wall only. The first year I used a wood processor and filled the sheds in April with wood from logs cut the summer before. A lot of sizzle in the fireplace.
The next year I blocked the logs in the summer, then split and filled the sheds the following spring. When I went to use the wood, mostly maple, birch etc I found that the second row in was all moldy on the ends. It is being burnt in an OWB so  it works fine but I wouldn't want that mold in a house....
Ideal would be to stack and dry it, then move it to the sheds, then carry it to the OWB with the tractor but that is a couple more steps ....


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## FaithfulWoodsman (Mar 18, 2016)

I've found this thread interesting since I have my own covering woes. I prefer to top cover it all. I have a "ready to burn" shed by the house that holds 2 chords. The rest (10 chords) is on pallets with tarps. I like the milk jug idea, but have found something I plan to use exclusively. Purchased 4.5'X16'X3/16" rubber roofing roll ($40) at the restore this winter for my oak stack. Just finished splitting and stacking yesterday and rolled the stuff on. Barring a tornado this stuff is not coming off as the total weight was almost several hundred pounds. Laid a few 4X4's on top and it's good. Totally waterproof and no way a stout wind is even budging it. I know others do this and I will be going back for more.


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## fire_man (Mar 21, 2016)

I cannot imagine how rotted my 6 year old wood would be if not top covered. I use $7 sheets of OSB which are tarped.  much cheaper than a shed and almost as good.


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## Seanm (Mar 21, 2016)

fire_man said:


> I cannot imagine how rotted my 6 year old wood would be if not top covered. I use $7 sheets of OSB which are tarped.  much cheaper than a shed and almost as good.


This sounds decent to me. Just using plywood on long runs means that each 8' section allows for water to infiltrate unless your real good at your sloping. Covering the plywood with tarps would be a good solution to this although as you remove wood your tarps would be frozen to the osb. My double rows of 18 inches would mean Im going to use more plywood since I cant get 2 pieces out of a 4 x 8 that would do the trick.


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## Soundchasm (Mar 22, 2016)

7acres said:


> Well I purchased 100' X 10' of black 6 mil plastic to cover my stacks. I cut it down the middle so I had 2 5' wide pieces. I top covered my loooong stack (probably 75' long) and my short stack (~20'). I stack on pallets three splits deep. That makes for pretty much exactly 5' wide front to back. I was doubtful the splits I put on top to act as paperweights would hold it down in high wind.
> 
> Well today we got high wind. And my covers blew off. The thought occurred to me last week that a nice solution might be to staple it down to the wood (with a plastic card in between so the wind wouldn't just pop the plastic right through the staple). And have staples every 2' the entire circumference. Is that a good idea? Do you have an even better idea?



I'm a firm believer in top cover in the following way.  I probably got the 50'x3' clear plastic.  I keep two cords on 32' of landscape timbers, single stacked.  I roll and unfold the plastic and pull the sides down equally about 8".  Then I staple the sides about every two feet.  We get plenty of high winds here in Dayton, and the stuff stays on.  And it lasts for many years.  I keep 3.5 cords under a carport, and I keep 4.5 cords in a woodshed.  

It's just impossible to predict what you're going to need perfectly, so I definitely support going with a soft, cheap solution until you can be pretty sure about the best system.  I built my woodshed and I sure do wish I'd figured out how to get access to the back and why didn't I move it three feet to the right???  

Take your time.


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## Vikestand (Mar 22, 2016)

fire_man said:


> I cannot imagine how rotted my 6 year old wood would be if not top covered. I use $7 sheets of OSB which are tarped.  much cheaper than a shed and almost as good.



I cannot not imagine storing 6 years worth of wood.


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## ElmBurner (Mar 22, 2016)

Vikestand said:


> I cannot not imagine storing 6 years worth of wood.


Yep, me too.

If you are 6 years ahead, you can stop cutting and go do something else for a while.    Either that, or start selling it.


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## 7acres (Mar 24, 2016)

ElmBurner said:


> Yep, me too.
> 
> If you are 6 years ahead, you can stop cutting and go do something else for a while.    Either that, or start selling it.



6+ years ahead? That's awesome. I tell myself I need to be 30 years ahead to retire. Never too far ahead.


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