# Sierra Classic 2000 Hearthstove - Flue Connection



## larry4406 (Oct 21, 2018)

I have a Sierra Classic 2000 Hearthstove (rear exit) and a masonry fireplace with a tile flue.  Picture of my unit on the brick hearth.  It is identical to this one https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/sierra-hearthstove-classic.111947/#post-1487301

Right now the stove vents to the masonry fireplace which is sealed off with the factory metal cover plate.  The damper plate is removed at the top of the masonry firebox.  From reading here on this forum, this is what is called a "slammer" and is not desired.  My parents had this exact model stove installed in this same manner for more than 25 years without issue but I am looking to do this right.

The manual makes reference to a damper adapter yet I have not found one.  From reading this forum, this approach is what some refer to as direct connected?  Where would one obtain this adapter short of custom making one?  I suppose I could make one from metal plate cut to match the damper assembly (overlap the hole) and make clamps to bolt it in place.  Then the issue of connecting flue pipe to it and the stove while snaking thru the factory metal cover plate.

I am thinking the best approach is a flexible stainless liner connected to the stove.  I found this link to be most like what I am thinking however I want to keep the cover plate in place to conceal the masonry firebox opening. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/rear-vent-wood-stove-through-masonry-fireplace.110725/

Is the Tee at the bottom needed?  The manual excerpt just shows an elbow and a downward slope to the stove.


----------



## begreen (Oct 21, 2018)

Yes, what the manual is referring to is a damper area sealing block-off plate for a direct connection. The problem with that type of installation is that everytime the chimney is cleaned a bunch of creosote flakes fall down on the block-off plate and smoke shelf. Unless the block off plate is remove with each cleaning these flakes build up. They are combustible and can be ignited by the hot stub of liner sticking up above the block-off plate. Not a good situation. A better solution is to install a full liner. It can have an elbow at the bottom. They make stainless elbows with the proper clamp attachment on one end to connect to the liner. The horiz. pipe going to the stove from the elbow should also be stainless steel. 
https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.c...ents/adjustable-elbow-for-flexible-liners.php


----------



## larry4406 (Oct 21, 2018)

begreen said:


> Yes, what the manual is referring to is a damper area sealing block-off plate for a direct connection. The problem with that type of installation is that everytime the chimney is cleaned a bunch of creosote flakes fall down on the block-off plate and smoke shelf. Unless the block off plate is remove with each cleaning these flakes build up. They are combustible and can be ignited by the hot stub of liner sticking up above the block-off plate. Not a good situation. A better solution is to install a full liner. It can have an elbow at the bottom. They make stainless elbows with the proper clamp attachment on one end to connect to the liner. The horiz. pipe going to the stove from the elbow should also be stainless steel.
> https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.c...ents/adjustable-elbow-for-flexible-liners.php



Thank you Begreen.  I had not thought of the block-off plate becoming a shelf for debris/creosote collection but it certainly makes sense.  Thank you for the link to Rockford Chimney Supply; I found their site already and have been surfing thru it.  Their smooth bore preinsulated liner looks appealing but pricey.


----------



## bholler (Oct 21, 2018)

larry4406 said:


> Thank you Begreen.  I had not thought of the block-off plate becoming a shelf for debris/creosote collection but it certainly makes sense.  Thank you for the link to Rockford Chimney Supply; I found their site already and have been surfing thru it.  Their smooth bore preinsulated liner looks appealing but pricey.


If it is thinwall 2ply liner dont get it.  Go with midweight or heavywall liner for that stove


----------



## larry4406 (Oct 22, 2018)

bholler said:


> If it is thinwall 2ply liner dont get it.  Go with midweight or heavywall liner for that stove



I will be calling some chimney sweeps /wood stove folks today to try to get smarter on this.  What exactly does "mid-weight" or "heavy wall" liner mean?  Do you have a gage of metal you would recommend?


----------



## bholler (Oct 22, 2018)

larry4406 said:


> I will be calling some chimney sweeps /wood stove folks today to try to get smarter on this.  What exactly does "mid-weight" or "heavy wall" liner mean?  Do you have a gage of metal you would recommend?


Those are flexible liners they are between .010 and .014"  regular thinwall will work but your stove is going to make more creosote than a modern stove and will need more rigorous cleaning.  The heavier liners will stand up to that much better


----------



## larry4406 (Oct 22, 2018)

Out of curiosity, what is the typical price to install a stainless liner in a masonry fireplace?  

Mine has normal terra cota flue I think maybe 10x10 or 12x12, perfectly straight, maybe 18' total from flue to chimney cap.

Single story home with 6/12 roof pitch.


----------



## bholler (Oct 22, 2018)

larry4406 said:


> Out of curiosity, what is the typical price to install a stainless liner in a masonry fireplace?
> 
> Mine has normal terra cota flue I think maybe 10x10 or 12x12, perfectly straight, maybe 18' total from flue to chimney cap.
> 
> Single story home with 6/12 roof pitch.


That will vary allot depending on many things.  Many places dont clean properly dont insulate or do a block off plate and use the cheapest possible liner.  They will be around $1000.  We would be in the $2000 to $2500 range.  It depends allot on how dirty the chimney is.  With an install like yours it would not be uncommon to require chemical cleaning which can get pretty expensive.


----------

