# Beckett Aquasmart Boiler Controller; Any thoughts?



## BARTSFAM (Feb 20, 2012)

Hello;

My house was built 8 years ago.  The builder installed a Peerless, forced hot water,  boiler. For the last 4 years, I really only use the boiler for heating water, as the pellet stove heats the house.
My oil company uses a "chain" plumbing service. On the last two visits, the plumber is really pushing the Beckett Aquasmart, or the Honeywell Aqua controller. 

His reasoning is, I have a "cold start" system. He says that this way of heating makes alot of condensation, creating alot of rust within the boiler. He said that the builder used a cheap controller, and that having a cold start is not the way to go.  He said that the Beckett will keep the water hotter, and guarantees a 10% savings in oil use.

He offerred to install the Beckett for $590.  I said I would think about it, and he immediately said, "How about $540?"  This makes me think that he is desperate, and needs the work. 
I see the Beckett Aquasmart on sale on the Internet for $150.  

What gives?  Is it really worth the money?  Does anyone have any experience using these type of "green" boiler controllers?


----------



## R Mannino (Feb 20, 2012)

I use the Beckett Aquasmart almost exclusively on our oil fired installations, it works very well.  I set them up as "cold start" controls.
If you already have a cold start type control I don't see how it would save any money (energy) at all.  It is difficult to say what control
strategy your current system is using without seeing it.  If it is really cold start you would have to have an indirect water heater or aquabooster
connected to it.

http://www.technicalheating.com/


----------



## BARTSFAM (Feb 21, 2012)

I do have a stand alone, but connected, water heater.

My plumber is worried that the cold start causes condensation and rust. He keeps saying that if I use the Aquasmart, the water will be kept at a higher temperature, and cold water will not be sent through the boiler. He is big against my cold well water going through my boiler.....


----------



## R Mannino (Feb 21, 2012)

The water heater is fired from the boiler?

Keeping the boiler warm with a low limit setting will use more fuel, period.


----------



## BARTSFAM (Feb 21, 2012)

Yes.  I am not very technical, but...the water heater needs the boiler.  

The plumber is very pushy about the Beckett thing, so I think he has a quota to meet or something....


----------



## R Mannino (Feb 21, 2012)

If you currently have a cold start control it would be best just to leave it.
The Aquasmart is a great control, but misapplied (programmed wrong)  and it's just a bad as what it replaces.


----------



## BARTSFAM (Feb 21, 2012)

All right.  Thanks for the advice!


----------



## maple1 (Feb 21, 2012)

BARTSFAM said:
			
		

> I do have a stand alone, but connected, water heater.
> 
> My plumber is worried that the cold start causes condensation and rust. He keeps saying that if I use the Aquasmart, the water will be kept at a higher temperature, and cold water will not be sent through the boiler. He is big against my cold well water going through my boiler.....



If you have an indirect hot water tank, your cold well water does not go through your boiler. The coldest water that would go through/into your boiler would be a temp just below the cut in point, where your hot water tank calls for heat. Guessing that's somewhere around 110Â° F? Not hot, but certainly not cold. The coldest your cold start boiler could ever get is room temperature - cold start boilers should be designed for that type of operation. Unless it is not a true cold start boiler but is just set up that way?


----------



## velvetfoot (Feb 21, 2012)

I also have a cold start oil boiler with an indirect water heater.  
I put on a Tekmar outdoor reset on it.
It seems to be working fine, but I have no idea about fuel usage.
Is this Beckett Aquasmart unit better than an outdoor reset?


----------



## R Mannino (Feb 21, 2012)

Outdoor reset is the way to go.  The Aquasmart also has this as an option with a wireless outdoor sensor.
Without the outdoor sensor is has a feature that automatically reduces the high limit temperature based on load.


----------



## velvetfoot (Feb 21, 2012)

Thanks.  I forget what I have the lower limit set at, but it's not too low.  Haven't had any problems.


----------



## R Mannino (Feb 21, 2012)

I turn the low limit off on my installs, saves energy.
Low limits just waste energy unless you need it for a DHW tankless coil.


----------



## velvetfoot (Feb 21, 2012)

Nice install.  I don't think my Burnham V8 can take low temps.

Edit:  Upon reflection, and reading the reset manual, I think the reason I have the boiler min temp (when it's running it'a a cold start), was because I have baseboard heat.


----------



## steam man (Feb 21, 2012)

I've had my cold start boiler going for 20 years. Generally you should use enough hot water to keep the boiler somewhat above the room temp it is located in. In the last few years I added solar preheating before the indirect tank and also use some wood preheating to the same tank. That cut down on the boiler operating dramaticlly. My boiler still runs a few cycles a day which keeps it warm in the winter. In the summer it kicks in very infrequently. I just don't see any rusting or problems going on.


----------



## BARTSFAM (Feb 21, 2012)

Thanks for all of the advice.  I do not know if my boiler is a "cold start" or just the controller is set up that way.

The boiler service man keeps harping on the condensation and rusting that could occur, but I do not see anyone else here having that problem.

Again, it almost seems that he has a quota to fill on the Beckett Aquasmart.  I think I will leave what I have alone and save $540.


----------



## ALASKAPF185 (Feb 22, 2012)

Cold start would be more like your cabin upnorth that only sees weekend use. And after initial firing it takes along time to bring return temps above 140*. If you do not have a large volume in the system, these boilers heat up rather quickly. With correct piping and pump sizes this is a non issue unless your boiler is seeing sub 140* water for more than 15-20 minutes on a regular basis. If you look in your owners manual it will show a piping diagram for near boiler piping protection called a boiler bypass, this eliminates any cold shock or condensing issues and maintains the warranty. Quote from a burnham V8 manual BELOW, its also the first thing they look for when a warranty is considered. There are several controlers just like the Beckett, and that is alot of labor for $150.00 part. Wish my profit margins were like that, err no I don't, I couldn't sleep at nite. Maybe a good understanding of what you have now and what the Beckett does will help you make a decision.



WARNING 
System supply and return piping must be con- 
nected to correct boiler pipe. 
U.S. Boiler Company recommends sizing the 
system circulator to supply sufficient flow 
(GPM) to allow a 0Â°F temperature differen- 
tial in the system.  When sizing the system 
circulator, the pressure drop of all radiators, 
baseboard and radiant tubing and all connect- 
ing piping must be considered. 
4.  Use a boiler bypass if the boiler is to be operated 
in a system which has a large volume or excessive 
radiation where low boiler water temperatures may 
be encountered (i.e. converted gravity circulation 
system, etc.) The bypass should be the same size as  
the supply and return lines with valves located in the 
bypass and return line as illustrated in Figures 14A, 
14B and 14C in order to regulate water flow for 
maintenance of higher boiler water temperature.  
WARNING


----------

