# Lopi AGP vs Harman p68



## Sniz (Sep 30, 2013)

going to pull the trigger on one of these 2 stoves this week. Went to the local showroom and saw both in person.

Price I'm being given as follows

AGP - $2,800 + tax
p68 - $3,495 + tax

my thoughts are the p68 has been around and nothing new per se, so it should be ironed out. The AGP seems to be pretty new and i'm seeing issues with the auger motors though that is thought to be ironed out?

p68 puts out a lot more BTU but they are rated for the same square footage.

I'm looking for this to be my main heat source here in MD with my oil furnace as a backup essentially.

What is everyone's thoughts on these two options? The price difference is nice and would pay for a few tons of pellets but I have no interest in taking the 'cheap' way out if it will lead to an issue down the line.

Thanks all!


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## jtakeman (Sep 30, 2013)

Stove ratings can be deceiving!

Please post some details about the house. Hard to give advice when there isn't much to go on. How much sqftage are you planning on keeping warm and do you want no oil usage?


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## Sniz (Sep 30, 2013)

jtakeman said:


> Stove ratings can be deceiving!
> 
> Please post some details about the house. Hard to give advice when there isn't much to go on. How much sqftage are you planning on keeping warm and do you want no oil usage?




sorry, its a ~2000 sq ft split level. No doors on the whole house other than the bedrooms/bathrooms and to the sub basement which we are not worried about heating. yes i'd love to not use oil at all BUT I just filled the tank to the tune of $800 if its needed.

Here is a diagram of my layout, i'm planning on putting it at the lower location marked B. There is a full wall between the bar where it will be located and the foyer leading upstairs, its not closed off but its in the way, the air will have to turn around that wall to head upstairs. I was planning on hardwiring a fan into that wall that will pull/blow the air from the hotter bar area up the steps to the main living area. Figured that would help with more even heat distribution.









and here is a photo looking from the living room at the stairs leading down and up. The foyer wall in the bottom left has the bar area behind it.


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## imacman (Sep 30, 2013)

Put the stove in the area you'll use the MOST.  My guess is location A, plus easier for heat to reach bedrooms.


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## Sniz (Sep 30, 2013)

imacman said:


> Put the stove in the area you'll use the MOST.  My guess is location A, plus easier for heat to reach bedrooms.



that was my thought as well but it would require a lot more expensive install being that it has to be up through the breezeway ceiling and then about 15' up to the roofline + a few feet. 

torn on that decision. location B would be a cakewalk for the install and much cheaper plus it would heat the theater room / bar we spend plenty of time at.

I do understand your point


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## jtakeman (Sep 30, 2013)

I would go with the P68 you'll need all of that and maybe more. If you put the stove in the B location, You might not get as much heat as you'd like upstairs to the 3 bedroom area. Unless you overly heat the area where the stove is at. 

Ultimate would be a stove in B and another in A. Or sister in a pellet furnace to the oil monster.


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## Bioburner (Sep 30, 2013)

Harman is a hot stove giving off radiant heat as well as heating air. Disc feed system.(AGP) Bixby stoves had it and performed well but had wear issues. If its going to move pellets I would prefer it to be a steel auger. Them babies are hard.


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## stoveguy13 (Sep 30, 2013)

P-68 in B location worse case you may not get the bed rooms all that hot and can always add another after you see how it works.


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## Sniz (Sep 30, 2013)

jtakeman said:


> I would go with the P68 you'll need all of that and maybe more. If you put the stove in the B location, You might not get as much heat as you'd like upstairs to the 3 bedroom area. Unless you overly heat the area where the stove is at.
> 
> Ultimate would be a stove in B and another in A. Or sister in a pellet furnace to the oil monster.


I like the bedrooms colder......the wife not so much


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## Sniz (Oct 1, 2013)

Hey guys another question, i dont want to start another thread and clutter things up......actually 2.

Pellets
Shop where i'm about to buy my p68 only sells Summerhill pellets which are made in PA....i've done some searching on here and did not find any real good definitive answer if these hardwood pellets are decent or not. They want $239/ton for them. Opinions? I have not started searching elsewhere but HD has Pennington's which I won't buy.

Venting/Plumbing

I am installing this stove myself, easy install right out the wall no vertical plumbing at all. My main question is is there a huge difference in the piping/cap setups out there? I see DuraVent and a few others advertised here which i'm assuming i'll have to order. Any suggestions on this?


Thanks again for all the help.....i'm glad to have found a solid 'nerdboard' as my wife calls them for pellet stoves. I'm an avid forum user for BMW's which is a passion of mine, totaling over 20,000 total posts on 2 boards. I'll do my best to contribute here but i'm a total newb on this stuff.


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## P38X2 (Oct 1, 2013)

First off, use an OAK. the Harman OAK thimble is pretty slick, but a bit pricy. Do it right the first time, right? Duravent is notorious for leaking, but you may get lucky, and the prices at yer local HD(if you have one) will be hard to beat. As far as a terminations, a "turbo" cap works well..and looks clean. No, it doesn't add any extra HP


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## Sniz (Oct 1, 2013)

P38X2 said:


> First off, use an OAK. the Harman OAK thimble is pretty slick, but a bit pricy. Do it right the first time, right? Duravent is notorious for leaking, but you may get lucky, and the prices at yer local HD(if you have one) will be hard to beat. As far as a terminations, a "turbo" cap works well..and looks clean. No, it doesn't add any extra HP



good info thanks, just did some google searching and did not locate an online store to purchase a Harman OAK thimble?

I found this but it doesnt seem to incorporate any sort of fresh air ducting?

http://www.pellet-stove-parts-4less..._PRO_Horizontal_Kit_DV_4PVP_p/dv-4pvp-kha.htm


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## P38X2 (Oct 1, 2013)

Try searching for Selkirk brand. Have you tried the dealer you saw the stoves at? I think that Harman part is around $180


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## Sniz (Oct 1, 2013)

pellet question, which one would you get?

lignetics
AWP
Summerhill

all the same price in my area and thats all i have found


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## imacman (Oct 1, 2013)

Sniz said:


> pellet question, which one would you get?
> 
> lignetics
> AWP
> ...


I've never heard of the Summerhill brand, but the Lig's have a slight edge over the AWF, IMO.

Maybe post some pics of the Summerhill bag & bar code so we can decipher who makes them.


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## Sniz (Oct 1, 2013)

imacman said:


> I've never heard of the Summerhill brand, but the Lig's have a slight edge over the AWF, IMO.
> 
> Maybe post some pics of the Summerhill bag & bar code so we can decipher who makes them.



Made by this mill in summerhill, PA

http://www.ccsmithlumber.com/Products/WoodPellets


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## imacman (Oct 1, 2013)

Sniz said:


> Made by this mill in summerhill, PA
> 
> http://www.ccsmithlumber.com/Products/WoodPellets


They sell the "Wood Pellets Co." brand, so I guess they're re-bagging with another name like many other mills.  Generally, they have been an average to slightly above pellet.  I think you're still better off w/ the Ligs & AWF


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## Sniz (Oct 3, 2013)

anyone have experience with these pellets?

http://www.woodfloorsplus.com/products/?sort&tier=pellets&gclid=CK23iNjx-7kCFXTxOgodcD8AaQ
Power pellets or Omalley, both being listed as super premium.....and CHEAP.

thoughts? Basically all I can find locally are lignetics for 229/ton


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## imacman (Oct 3, 2013)

O'malley's have been a mixed bag the past few years.  Recently, not so good:

http://woodpelletreviews.com/reviews/wood-pellets/omalley-wood-pellets.html

Not familiar w/ Power Pellets, but reviews are again, mixed:

http://woodpelletreviews.com/reviews/wood-pellets/power-pellets.html


In general, I think you get what you pay for.  The $229 for the Lig's isn't bad for a decent pellet. Just make sure it's not the version with the blue lettered bag.  The Green lettered hardwood and hard/soft blend burned well for me last winter.


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## Sniz (Oct 3, 2013)

imacman said:


> O'malley's have been a mixed bag the past few years.  Recently, not so good:
> 
> http://woodpelletreviews.com/reviews/wood-pellets/omalley-wood-pellets.html
> 
> ...


 
damn! Yup just found that website and have been reading, thanks! Not happy with my local selections!


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## Rushed (Oct 9, 2013)

Sniz said:


> Hey guys another question, i dont want to start another thread and clutter things up......actually 2.
> 
> Pellets
> Shop where i'm about to buy my p68 only sells Summerhill pellets which are made in PA....i've done some searching on here and did not find any real good definitive answer if these hardwood pellets are decent or not. They want $239/ton for them. Opinions? I have not started searching elsewhere but HD has Pennington's which I won't buy.
> ...


 
I've had a P68 for 8 years now.
I've bought the so called best pellets and the cheap ass pellets, from what I see the P68 burns them all good and the same amount every year.
The pellets I like the best I bought from Walmart they were a soft wood brand.
P68 all the way.

I bought my stove pipe from Lowes 1/2 the price from anywhere else. (Duravent brand.)


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## Sniz (Oct 9, 2013)

Rushed said:


> I've had a P68 for 8 years now.
> I've bought the so called best pellets and the cheap ass pellets, from what I see the P68 burns them all good and the same amount every year.
> The pellets I like the best I bought from Walmart they were a soft wood brand.
> P68 all the way.
> ...



Sounds good. I'm going to pick up a ton of Pennwoods when I get the stove installed.


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## Rushed (Oct 9, 2013)

Sniz said:


> pellet question, which one would you get?
> 
> lignetics
> AWP
> ...


 

I didn't like the Lignetics. They were very sooty and pricey.
I've had great luck with the HD Fireside brand.  $219 ton. They might be more ash but I still burn the same amount each year no matter what the brand.
The P68 is a brease to clean and take care of. The extra ash isn't a problem.


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## krooser (Oct 9, 2013)

Ignore the premium/super premium nonsense... means nothing.


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## Sniz (Oct 22, 2013)

hey boys, getting ready to order the stove and install parts. anything i'm missing here other than possibly some RTV?

going straight out the wall, don't need to go up at all.

*Shopping Cart*
Remove
Image
Item #
Description
Options
Qty
Rate
Amount






2594592PelletVent Pro 4" Pipe Extension-Black-18" length$98.06$98.06






2594656PelletVent Pro Wall Thimble Air Intake Kit - 4"$141.74$141.74






2594650PelletVent Pro 4" Round Horizontal Cap$49.08$49.08
* Total *$288.88


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## MtDew (Oct 22, 2013)

Sniz said:


> hey boys, getting ready to order the stove and install parts. anything i'm missing here other than possibly some RTV?
> 
> going straight out the wall, don't need to go up at all.
> 
> ...


 

You will probably also need the appliance adapter piece to connect the stove to 18" pipe. The appliance adapter usually is installed on the stove with Hi Temp RTV.
Also buy a good surge protector to plug your stove into.


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## P38X2 (Oct 22, 2013)

Why not go with 3" pipe if you're just going straight out?....and what stove did you decide on? Doh!...disregard ques #2


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## P38X2 (Oct 22, 2013)

Sniz said:


> good info thanks, just did some google searching and did not locate an online store to purchase a Harman OAK thimble?
> 
> I found this but it doesnt seem to incorporate any sort of fresh air ducting?
> 
> http://www.pellet-stove-parts-4less..._PRO_Horizontal_Kit_DV_4PVP_p/dv-4pvp-kha.htm



Here ya go http://www.STOVE-PARTS-UNLIMITED.CO...all-Passthrough-3-PL-Vent-P-p/1-00-677077.htm


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## swalz (Oct 22, 2013)

Would it not be better to have some rise in the vent and not just go straight out?


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## Sniz (Oct 22, 2013)

P38X2 said:


> Why not go with 3" pipe if you're just going straight out?....and what stove did you decide on? Doh!...disregard ques #2


 
I would assume that more flow is better unless there is a reason these stoves run better with some backpressure/restriction?


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## Rushed (Oct 22, 2013)

Sniz said:


> hey boys, getting ready to order the stove and install parts. anything i'm missing here other than possibly some RTV?
> 
> going straight out the wall, don't need to go up at all.
> 
> ...



That stuff seems a bit pricey.
I bought all my pipe from Lowes.   http://www.lowes.com/pd_70661-76845...Search=4+"dura+vent"&productId=1193737&rpp=32

If you need the pipe black just paint it with hi temp paint.
Good luck.


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## Rushed (Oct 22, 2013)

Sniz said:


> hey boys, getting ready to order the stove and install parts. anything i'm missing here other than possibly some RTV?
> 
> going straight out the wall, don't need to go up at all.
> 
> ...


 

Check out Lowes. The prices can't be beat.   http://www.lowes.com/Search=pellet+...051&N=0&newSearch=true&Ntt=pellet+stove+pipe#!

If you need black pipe just paint it with hi temp paint.
Good luck.


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## P38X2 (Oct 22, 2013)

Sniz said:


> I would assume that more flow is better unless there is a reason these stoves run better with some backpressure/restriction?


Not totally sure, but any horizontal install I've seen was 3". I think 4" is primarily used when there's a long run of pipe and the extra draft it produces is advantageous in compensating for the additional pipe length.


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## stoveguy13 (Oct 22, 2013)

stove starter is missing and i would change the 18 for a 24


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## P38X2 (Oct 22, 2013)

Here's the business end of a good stove starter http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00008ZA09/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1382480387&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Obviously the P68 has auto ignite, but if it fails, or if you want heat faster, this works great. PLUS, you'll now have a decent torch in your tool arsenal...assuming you don't already have one.


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## Sniz (Oct 22, 2013)

ok I just ordered everything including the adapter in 3". going to paint the interior pipe black.

Question on clearance for the exhaust from the ground, does the exhaust termination need to be a specific height off the ground? The exterior wall is at ground level. outside is nothing but some old shrubs which i'll rip out with the truck. was thinking on putting gravel below the exhaust area for added safety.


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## Sniz (Oct 22, 2013)

stoveguy13 said:


> stove starter is missing and i would change the 18 for a 24


 
ordered in 24 

also I have a good starter already but thanks!


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## stoveguy13 (Oct 22, 2013)

Sniz said:


> ordered in 24 also I have a good starter already but thanks!


 Stove starter make the transition from the back of the stove to the pellet pipe could also be called appliance adaptor. you need to be 2 ft above the ground with the termination cap


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## Sniz (Oct 22, 2013)

stoveguy13 said:


> Stove starter make the transition from the back of the stove to the pellet pipe could also be called appliance adaptor. you need to be 2 ft above the ground with the termination cap



Ok gotcha, I ordered an adaptor as well.


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## P38X2 (Oct 22, 2013)

You'll need 2 3/8" OAK flex pipe as well. It can be tough to find, though your Harman dealer should have some in stock. If not, any METALLIC flex pipe will work, as long as you err on the side of larger. Pick the brains of the folks at your local BB store if you can't find the exact size.


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## Sniz (Oct 22, 2013)

stoveguy13 said:


> Stove starter make the transition from the back of the stove to the pellet pipe could also be called appliance adaptor. you need to be 2 ft above the ground with the termination cap



Took a good look at my exterior. Cap should be 30"+ above the ground.


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## Sniz (Oct 22, 2013)

P38X2 said:


> You'll need 2 3/8" OAK flex pipe as well. It can be tough to find, though your Harman dealer should have some in stock. If not, any METALLIC flex pipe will work, as long as you err on the side of larger. Pick the brains of the folks at your local BB store if you can't find the exact size.



Thanks I was looking into that. I'll contact my dealer tomorrow regarding the flex pipe. No luck finding a 2.5" flex in a quick search... 3" is everywhere.


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## P38X2 (Oct 22, 2013)

That's probably your best bet. You could use the 3" stuff but you'll have to get a couple adapters to make it work. An auto parts store would probably have them, but they won't be cheap. Then again, what your dealer gives you for a price likely won't be cheap either...so be prepared to say "how much a foot!?"


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## lightyear (Oct 22, 2013)

WHen you install the oak kit, make sure the little hole where the fresh air will come in is set up so the metal tab partly covering it is pointing down (to NOT allow water in) instead of pointing up (like I did)


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## Sniz (Oct 22, 2013)

lightyear said:


> WHen you install the oak kit, make sure the little hole where the fresh air will come in is set up so the metal tab partly covering it is pointing down (to NOT allow water in) instead of pointing up (like I did)



Good info


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## imacman (Oct 22, 2013)

Sniz said:


> .......No luck finding a 2.5" flex in a quick search... 3" is everywhere.



www.mcmaster.com/#metal-duct-hose/=p1zq62


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## Lousyweather (Oct 23, 2013)

this will arouse some ire......my opinion....that P68 will eat up that Lopi and all its relatives for breakfast, then look for more......


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## Sniz (Oct 23, 2013)

imacman said:


> www.mcmaster.com/#metal-duct-hose/=p1zq62



Yup I checked McMaster but no flexible 2 3/8 or 2 1/2 there. Would still have to go with 3" and modify


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## P38X2 (Oct 23, 2013)

You may have noticed, the same site that I gave you the thimble link from, also sells flex pipe. It's only in 25' lengths for $140. Break it down to around $5.50 a foot and that MIGHT be around what yer dealer will charge, although I think mine charges a bit more. Whatever the price is, if it were me, I'd just fork over the cash for the right stuff and be done with it. Tape the ends on and you're good to go. My guess is you'll only need 3'.


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## mik_kane (Oct 23, 2013)

I noticed vents in that picture you may want to look at this to circulate the heat.

ThermGuard

http://www.bearmountaindesign.com/

Also do a search for ThermGuard on the board


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## Sniz (Oct 23, 2013)

mik_kane said:


> I noticed vents in that picture you may want to look at this to circulate the heat.
> 
> ThermGuard
> 
> ...



I've seen that on here....certainly on the radar thanks!


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## Sniz (Oct 23, 2013)

P38X2 said:


> You may have noticed, the same site that I gave you the thimble link from, also sells flex pipe. It's only in 25' lengths for $140. Break it down to around $5.50 a foot and that MIGHT be around what yer dealer will charge, although I think mine charges a bit more. Whatever the price is, if it were me, I'd just fork over the cash for the right stuff and be done with it. Tape the ends on and you're good to go. My guess is you'll only need 3'.



Just ordered 2' for $10 from my dealer along with the stove and my first ton of pellets.


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## Sniz (Oct 23, 2013)

mik_kane said:


> I noticed vents in that picture you may want to look at this to circulate the heat.
> 
> ThermGuard
> 
> ...




Ordered


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## mik_kane (Oct 23, 2013)

Keep us informed on how everything worked out for you

Good Luck


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## Sniz (Oct 25, 2013)

One step closer...its in the house at least. Bar area is being fully tiled tomorrow then I can get to the install


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## P38X2 (Oct 26, 2013)

Sweeeeeet!

Little tip for installing the door hinge retaining washers. Grab a pair of good sized channel locks, a 1/2" standard depth socket and a post-it note, or some other small piece of paper. Take the socket and hold the retaining ring on the top of it. Now take yer channel locks and put the socket and ring on the bottom jaw and hold it against the bottom of one of the pins. Take the piece of paper and put it between the top jaw and the head of the pin, so you don't scratch the paint. Squeeze. Done. It's MUCH easier done than explained.

When you're ready to fire her up, don't forget the paint is gonna smoke...a lot. IMO, it's best to do it in one long hot burn. It's gotta get done so you might as well get it over with, otherwise you'll be smelling it again the next time you crank her up. Be prepared to listen to smoke alarms going off for an hour or so. 

Congrats and enjoy. You're gonna love the heat.


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## Sniz (Oct 27, 2013)

P38X2 said:


> Sweeeeeet!
> 
> Little tip for installing the door hinge retaining washers. Grab a pair of good sized channel locks, a 1/2" standard depth socket and a post-it note, or some other small piece of paper. Take the socket and hold the retaining ring on the top of it. Now take yer channel locks and put the socket and ring on the bottom jaw and hold it against the bottom of one of the pins. Take the piece of paper and put it between the top jaw and the head of the pin, so you don't scratch the paint. Squeeze. Done. It's MUCH easier done than explained.
> 
> ...



Just did that and scratched both hinge bolts pretty badly....no worries I have high temp matte black for TouchUp.

Thanks again for the help


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## P38X2 (Oct 27, 2013)

Sniz said:


> Just did that and scratched both hinge bolts pretty badly....no worries I have high temp matte black for TouchUp.
> 
> Thanks again for the help


That sucks. Sorry. Maybe your channel lock teeth are very sharp/new, or you dragged them a bit? I actually used the plastic bag the hardware came in. No scratches. Should've told you to use cardboard or something.


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## Sniz (Oct 29, 2013)

Installed!

thing roars!


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## P38X2 (Oct 29, 2013)

Looks great! That's prob one of the best "burning firebox" shots I've seen. 

How long were the smoke alarms going off for? Lol


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## Sniz (Oct 29, 2013)

P38X2 said:


> Looks great! That's prob one of the best "burning firebox" shots I've seen.
> 
> How long were the smoke alarms going off for? Lol



Thanks! Didn't smoke much at all actually. They didn't even go off but it did smell.


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## SteveB (Oct 29, 2013)

Sniz said:


> Thanks! Didn't smoke much at all actually. They didn't even go off but it did smell.


Congrats! Looks great! Time to update your signature!


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## Sniz (Oct 30, 2013)

Hey all just finished up the exterior install, needed to seal up the thimble on the brick to keep water from getting in. Also painted everything outside a flat black, didnt like the shiny look.

Question, AROUND the thimble in the wall I used great stuff Fireblock insulation to seal up the wall, obviously punching a 7" hole in your house and putting a thin aluminum thimble in there is far from efficient. Fiberglass insulation was already in the wall so i figured something to act as more of an air barrier would be a huge help.

is there any issue with doing this? it is not touching the exhaust pipe at all, just the thimble.


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## mik_kane (Oct 30, 2013)

Insulation around the thimble is OK if it's not touching the exhaust

Where did you finally place the stove in the basement A or the breezeway B, and did you install the ThermGuard?


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## Sniz (Oct 30, 2013)

mik_kane said:


> Insulation around the thimble is OK if it's not touching the exhaust
> 
> Where did you finally place the stove in the basement A or the breezeway B, and did you install the ThermGuard?



Basement A and yup installed it this morning. Super easy setup and it seems to be working. Have it set at the factory preset of 5 minutes on every 30 minutes.


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## The Grintch (Oct 30, 2013)

Best of luck and congratulations!

Welcome to the family!


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## Sniz (Nov 1, 2013)

hey all,
   how often do you find yourself cleaning your glass to keep it clean? currently mine seems to need it daily or there is a good layer of soot/black on the upper 1/2 of the glass.

it hasn't been very cold here since I installed so it is kicking on and shutting off within 30 minutes typically so that may be the reason?


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## P38X2 (Nov 1, 2013)

Sniz said:


> hey all,
> how often do you find yourself cleaning your glass to keep it clean? currently mine seems to need it daily or there is a good layer of soot/black on the upper 1/2 of the glass.
> 
> it hasn't been very cold here since I installed so it is kicking on and shutting off within 30 minutes typically so that may be the reason?


It's not so much the smokey start-ups as much as it is burning it on low, and pellet quality is likely the biggest factor. I burned a couple bags of NEWP, in some bizarre attempt to "save" the last few bags of my good stuff, and the top half of the glass was opaque brown within 8 hours. When my ESP was replaced, I cleaned the glass and went back to Orford softwoods, and now Spruce Pointes, and the glass stays MUCH cleaner(still burning on low 99% of the time), though it's still dirty.

Unless you're burning a P series Harman near WOT the whole time, the glass is gonna get dirty, and even at WOT, you're just delaying the inevitable. The air wash delivery ports are a bit different on the 68 vs the 38 and I will say, the 68 gets dirtier faster than the 38, IME. The glass is much bigger(taller) on the 68, so the air wash isn't as effective, IMO, hence the different port design. It seems Harman tried to increase the velocity and keep the air a bit more laminar on the 68, in an attempt to compensate for the taller glass. Now you see why the glass is mirrored? For the longest time I thought it was some cheesy attempt to make the stove look cool.

The dirty glass is normal, however I don't think it should be black in color. What pellets are you burning?


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## Sniz (Nov 1, 2013)

Wood pellets co. Out of summer hill,PA. Got them with the stove. Rep at the dealer had good things to say so I am trying them out.


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## briansol (Nov 1, 2013)

GET A SURGE PROTECTOR!


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## Sniz (Nov 1, 2013)

briansol said:


> GET A SURGE PROTECTOR!



Got one....its in the plug. Monster surge with $50k protection warranty.


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## P38X2 (Nov 1, 2013)

Sniz said:


> Got one....its in the plug. Monster surge with $50k protection warranty.


Looks like you have a pretty sweet theater/man cave going on there


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## Sniz (Nov 1, 2013)

P38X2 said:


> Looks like you have a pretty sweet theater/man cave going on there



Thanks I enjoy it


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## Sniz (Nov 5, 2013)

Hey guys, stove is doing great, got down to 28 2 nights ago and no issues keeping the house at a toasty 74.

Quick question, FEED RATE. Harman suggests starting at 4. Stove runs great there, its producing an ash bed around if not a bit over 1" thick at this setting. I lowered it to 3 and seems to run fine as well, ash bed is not as thick.

What are the reasons or benefits for adjusting? I'm assuming a lower feed rate just lowers the high point fuel consumption and doesn't 'lean' out the fuel during other burn cycles. 

What should i shoot for with the feed rate? i'm doing reading on it but dont see anything conclusive.

As an observation i put it on 3 this morning and think its used a lot less pellets today BUT the weather is a bit warmer.


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## P38X2 (Nov 5, 2013)

I believe your assumption is correct regarding the feed trim affecting the high point fuel consumption. It shouldn't have any effect on saving pellets in room temp mode as the stove will burn to meet your set temp. I believe the feed trim is there to accommodate poorly burning pellets at WOT.


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## saxcity (Dec 5, 2014)

Sniz said:


> going to pull the trigger on one of these 2 stoves this week. Went to the local showroom and saw both in person.
> 
> Price I'm being given as follows
> 
> ...


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