# Peavey vs. Cant Hook... and why?



## Ashful

After borrowing a cant hook for the third time, I figure it's time to buy my own.  So, I've been reading old threads on peaveys and cant hooks, and figuring I don't want to buy two or three... having trouble deciding which _one_ to buy.  Seems folks are fond of their Logrite bars, so that's the brand, leaving only the head style and length in question.

So, ye rare folk who have had the fortune to use both... which do you prefer for general firewood felling and scrounging work?  I've seen arguments given for both tools, as well as 48" vs. 60" lengths, but nothing entirely convincing.

The heavy rounds I need to roll are usually heavy due more to length than diameter.  This weekend, I'll be bucking and fetching another 18" - 24" diameter log, 30 - 40 feet long (or so the present owner claims).


----------



## bogydave

Cant hook
the sharp point on the peavey  is a pain ( sometimes literally )
48 " is easier to handle & fits on my ATV well.  Use it on logs similar to what you are facing.
Great back saver


----------



## muncybob

I use a cant hook with 48" handle. It's great for rolling logs and pulling rounds off the truck bed and onto the splitter. Before getting this great tool it was tough rolling logs and I had to hop up into the truck bed several times when unloading unless I had  helper nearby.
I sometimes wish I had the 5' handle though as I still need to hop up into the truck for those last few rounds I can't reach but since I usually sweep out the bed anyways it's not a big deal.


----------



## MarkinNC

I have the 60" Logrite peavey and it works well.  I've rolled some big logs with it, large enough I had to drive the hook in with a small sledge.  I got the peavey style because a friend of mine with a sawmill has used both and he preferred the peavey because you can stab the point in the ground and stop a log from rolling.  We live in the mountains so flatness of terrain is less than common.  I got the Logrite because he had broken 3 peavey handles over the years and they were $39 to replace at the time I was buying.


----------



## zzr7ky

Hi -

I use a couple.  One knock off steel felling leaver with a 36" handle.  It's fine for rolling stuff around at home.  The one I take in the woods has a 6' Hickory handle.  I LOVE it!!  ; ) 

Enjoy!
Mike


----------



## MrWhoopee

I've been thinking about buying one or the other myself. This cant hook with fiberglass handle and timberjack gets very good reviews.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200357988_200357988

at $45 plus $15 shipping, it's very attractive.

Edit: oops, I wandered off subject again. Given my limited experience with a peavey and the extra functionality that a cant hook w/ timberjack provides, I say cant hook.


----------



## Ashful

MrWhoopee said:


> at $45 plus $15 shipping, it's very attractive.


 
I agree it looks like a good value, but the question was more which you would want (and why), at any price.  Assuming you only want to carry one log rolling tool to a site with you, and not a whole trailer load of them, which one tool would you choose?

Here's where someone will post a photo of a bulldozer.


----------



## Eric Johnson

Cant hook, although all I have at the moment is a Peavey. Unless you're driving logs in a waterway, that big spike coming out of the bottom just gets in the way. Cant hooks are designed to turn logs on flat ground or (more likely) on a sawmill deck or carriage.


----------



## DexterDay

Cant Hook with Log-Lift and a 48" Handle


----------



## jeff_t

I think the handle depends a lot on what you are trying to move. I suppose your body has a bit to do with it, too. I'm 6'1" and weigh about 230, and I'm not very fat. I use that 60" handle for all it's worth sometimes. 

Definitely support the logrite choice. I guess I don't really know, but it looks like the peavey point and cant hook might be interchangeable, by punching out a rolled pin.


----------



## Backwoods Savage

Joful said:


> After borrowing a cant hook for the third time, I figure it's time to buy my own. So, I've been reading old threads on peaveys and cant hooks, and figuring I don't want to buy two or three... having trouble deciding which _one_ to buy. Seems folks are fond of their Logrite bars, so that's the brand, leaving only the head style and length in question.
> 
> So, ye rare folk who have had the fortune to use both... which do you prefer for general firewood felling and scrounging work? I've seen arguments given for both tools, as well as 48" vs. 60" lengths, but nothing entirely convincing.
> 
> The heavy rounds I need to roll are usually heavy due more to length than diameter. This weekend, I'll be bucking and fetching another 18" - 24" diameter log, 30 - 40 feet long (or so the present owner claims).






Cant hook is the way to go. Length of handle is somewhat preference and also has to do with how big of a log you intend to roll. Personally, I have a 4' but would prefer a 3'. And I rarely go to the woods without the cant hook. I use it more than the axe.

One really nice thing about a cant hook is sometimes I fell a medium sized tree and after limbing, want to slide the log sideways a little to be able to pull it out with the atv. With the cant hook it is easy but not so easy with a peavey. Set the hook on the end of the log and the toe on the side of the log and pull. Saves a lot of work because sometimes you can't roll them because of where they lay but you can move the end of the log enough to put a chain on and be able to miss stumps or roots when you start to pull the log.

As for the logs, it is so nice to be able to cut maybe 80% through the log. Make all the cuts, then roll it with the cant hook and finish the cuts. This way you don't pinch the bar nor do you try to cut the earth.

One more thing, I like a wood handle.


----------



## bogydave

Backwoods Savage said:


> View attachment 70923
> 
> 
> And I rarely go to the woods without the cant hook.
> 
> As for the logs, it is so nice to be able to cut maybe 80% through the log. Make all the cuts, then roll it with the cant hook and finish the cuts. This way you don't pinch the bar nor do you try to cut the earth.


 
+1
Sounds like we have similar methods. Less sharpening


----------



## Ashful

bogydave said:


> +1
> Sounds like we have similar methods. Less sharpening



Same method I've been using with borrowed cant hooks.  I'm going with a new 48" cant hook.  Only thing to decide now is aluminum vs wood (having second thoughts on that).


----------



## jeff_t

Joful said:


> I'm going with a new 48" cant hook.  Only thing to decide now is aluminum vs wood (having second thoughts on that).



If there is a Logrite dealer near you, go and grab hold of both. That's what I did. For the abuse I've given it, I have no regrets spending the extra cash.


----------



## amateur cutter

Logrite cant hook with the 48" handle. Only time I wanted the 5' handle was on that oak in my avatar, that was one miserable beast to deal with. A C


----------



## jeff_t

amateur cutter said:


> Logrite cant hook with the 48" handle. Only time I wanted the 5' handle was on that oak in my avatar, that was one miserable beast to deal with. A C



That's why I got the 60". Got into four 4'+ red oaks a couple of years ago. Ugh. Had a loader with a grapple to load up my trailer, but I had to deal with the SOBs when I got home.


----------



## Ashful

I've used a few wood cant hooks, and like them.  In general, I prefer wood handles on my tools, but this may be where I need to make an exception.

For a tool I'll have 20+ years, I don't really consider the $30 difference in price much of a factor.


----------



## Backwoods Savage

Worried about breakage? I've used them for over 50 years and never broken a handle yet.


----------



## MarkinNC

Backwoods Savage said:


> Worried about breakage? I've used them for over 50 years and never broken a handle yet.


Sample size of one is hard to extrapolate to all users.  My friend has broken 3.  So should all users buy 3 handles or plan on not ever breaking any? I imagine there are a lot of variables involved:  how big is the wood your rolling, how good is the piece of wood in the handle, is it hickory or is it ash.

My point is that factoring in the $39 handle replacement cost in ones purchase is prudent.  Handle breakage interrupting ones work, definitely happens, otherwise, I suspect, they would be guaranteed for life.


----------



## Ashful

Backwoods Savage said:


> Worried about breakage? I've used them for over 50 years and never broken a handle yet.


 
I wasn't, but then read so many stories about broken handles from others here, and elsewhere. I'd prefer a wood handle, if someone makes a good quality cant hook with wood. Trouble is, so many wood handled tools available today are junk, and it's hard to spot good from junk on a website.

Good wood handles, like wood ladders, are riven.  Never sawn.


----------



## Eric Johnson

Most peavey and can't hook handles that I've seen are made of hard maple, and that stuff don't break easily. Always park your wood-handled tools indoors and out of the elements, or they will rot and break, regardless of what kind of wood they're made from. Black locust handles are best, but you have to make them yourself. Just to pitch a friend of mine, Peavey Mfg. handles of all kinds are top shelf. Yep, same firm that made the original Peavey.


----------



## Backwoods Savage

And a bit of linseed oil on those wood handled tools will make them last even longer.


----------



## osagebow

Joful said:


> I wasn't, but then read so many stories about broken handles from others here, and elsewhere. I'd prefer a wood handle, if someone makes a good quality cant hook with wood. Trouble is, so many wood handled tools available today are junk, and it's hard to spot good from junk on a website.
> 
> Good wood handles, like wood ladders, are riven. Never sawn.


 
....as are bows, as it turns out!
.I've been using riven wood for years, but didn't know it was called that - thanks joful.  most of us have wedges, and would only need a drawknife to make our own handles. Here's a good explanation I found:

pfollansbee.wordpress.com/2009/10/18/theres-oak-then-theres-riven-oak/


----------



## Ashful

No problem, osagebow. I'm a woodworker, and a bit of an old-world carpenter, too. I even rived the oak slats on the wagon body I made for my son (the metal chassis was his great-grandfather's wagon ca.1920):




One of the best woods for tool handles is dogwood. Shame I just cut up my last two big straight pieces for firewood. I just moved, and haven't set up the new shop yet, so I'm limited on wood storage space at the moment.

I guess I'm swinging around to the original Peavy Mfg. 48" cant hook. Sorry Logrite. Thanks, Eric! I'll set aside a nice straight piece of dogwood, hickory, or black locust for when the handle fails (if it ever does).


----------



## John Mc

I made the mistake of buying a cheap cant hook with timber jack from Northern Tool.  THe tip never did seem to want to grab the logs, and after rolling a couple dozen logs (none of them particularly large) the tip of the hook broke off at the weld. From the reviews on their site, I was not the first to have this problem with that tool (though they kept rejecting my review where I mentioned the problem).  I replaced the hook with one from another company, and have found it a much better design overall - not weld to break, and better hook geometry, so it grabs better.

Cant hooks seem to be more useful on flat ground, or around a log deck. IMO, Peaveys are better in the woods, especially on hilly ground. I'm about to buy a Logrite peavey with 48" handle - that length is plenty for my needs. Once I get this I'll sell my old Norther Tool Cant Hook/Timber Jack.

I debated getting the timberjack attachment for the Logrite, but decided not to. I've found it's quicker to just cut most of the way through, then roll the log and cut the rest of the way, as opposed to jacking up the log, cutting some pieces the repositioning and jacking it up again to cut more pieces. If I did more work on a landing, or in other clear, flat places, I might have more use for the timber jack.


----------



## onetracker

osagebow said:


> ....as are bows, as it turns out!
> .I've been using riven wood for years, but didn't know it was called that - thanks joful. most of us have wedges, and would only need a drawknife to make our own handles. Here's a good explanation I found:
> 
> pfollansbee.wordpress.com/2009/10/18/theres-oak-then-theres-riven-oak/


 
yep. gotta follow one continous growth ring on the back of the bow.


----------



## Hermio

John Mc said:


> I made the mistake of buying a cheap cant hook with timber jack from Northern Tool.  THe tip never did seem to want to grab the logs, and after rolling a couple dozen logs (none of them particularly large) the tip of the hook broke off at the weld. From the reviews on their site, I was not the first to have this problem with that tool (though they kept rejecting my review where I mentioned the problem).  I replaced the hook with one from another company, and have found it a much better design overall - not weld to break, and better hook geometry, so it grabs better.
> 
> Cant hooks seem to be more useful on flat ground, or around a log deck. IMO, Peaveys are better in the woods, especially on hilly ground. I'm about to buy a Logrite peavey with 48" handle - that length is plenty for my needs. Once I get this I'll sell my old Norther Tool Cant Hook/Timber Jack.
> 
> I debated getting the timberjack attachment for the Logrite, but decided not to. I've found it's quicker to just cut most of the way through, then roll the log and cut the rest of the way, as opposed to jacking up the log, cutting some pieces the repositioning and jacking it up again to cut more pieces. If I did more work on a landing, or in other clear, flat places, I might have more use for the timber jack.


Sometimes there are branches or forks in a section, making it impossible to roll. That is where a timberjack comes in handy. I prefer the one made by Woodchuck to the 3 others I had before. the Woodchuck has more leverage and can handle about 30" logs if you can push down hard enough.


----------



## Allagash350

I use a cant hook all the time. We call them cant dogs though. My dad got me an antique snow and neally one with a believe a 48 inch handle.  It's pretty cool it was made in Bangor. I have quite a few older logging tools that were passed down to me from my grandfather when he was a logger in northern Maine. 
Cant dog is an amazing tool especially for large heavy oak rounds. 
To be honest I've never used a peavy my impression was they were more for industrial settings such as a sawmill, loggers rearranging or stacking logs, or the old days of river driving. I think having a point would be more work or frustration in most settings


----------



## Montanalocal

I use my old peavey with a straight point on it, and I think it is better than the cant hook with the right angle point on the end.  Two reasons.

One, I can use the straight point to jam into a cut when I am bucking and do not have a wedge with me.  Two, when I am rolling a big log and it starts to go over, I can jerk the peavey out quickly so that it does not get rolled over with the log and subject to breakage.  I would think the right angle point on the cant hook would be harder to disengage quickly.


----------



## Ashful

The right angle on most can't hooks is a squared-off chisel, not a point that will jam into or stick in a log.  

"Bangor?  I hardly know her!"


----------



## Allagash350

Montanalocal said:


> I use my old peavey with a straight point on it, and I think it is better than the cant hook with the right angle point on the end.  Two reasons.
> 
> One, I can use the straight point to jam into a cut when I am bucking and do not have a wedge with me.  Two, when I am rolling a big log and it starts to go over, I can jerk the peavey out quickly so that it does not get rolled over with the log and subject to breakage.  I would think the right angle point on the cant hook would be harder to disengage quickly.



Good points. Like I said I've never used one, but I am sure if they did not serve a purpose they never would have made it out of the woods in the first place! Never thought of using it as a wedge though that's a good idea in a pinch


----------



## firefighterjake

Ashful said:


> The right angle on most can't hooks is a squared-off chisel, not a point that will jam into or stick in a log.
> 
> "Bangor?  I hardly know her!"



Yeah, it's pronounced Bang-gor . . . there's no -er in Bangor.



Maybe this link will help?


----------



## TreePointer

With whatever one you decide to get, add a pickeroon to go with it.  There are many times I never touch a peavey/cant hook, but I always use the pickeroon.


----------



## Sean McGillicuddy

Like this Pickoon ?


----------



## Tk48states

Hermio said:


> Sometimes there are branches or forks in a section, making it impossible to roll. That is where a timberjack comes in handy. I prefer the one made by Woodchuck to the 3 others I had before. the Woodchuck has more leverage and can handle about 30" logs if you can push down hard enough.


I carry a little Stihl 170, call it my de limber, any log will have an upside, cut all the limbs and slash off a side and the log will roll at least 90 degrees with a cant hook and you can do it again if necessary. I used to think a peavey and cant hook were the same thing and many still confuse the terms but a true peavey, named for the man who designed it, was a tool used to separate logs on a river drive, the point was for shoving, the hook for rolling. Not many river drives anymore so a cant hook is more useful n the woods. I have two of them, one I got 40 yrs ago from a sawmill in Walden, Co. and the other a Northern Tool 48" fibreglass handle  one with a steel core, I can't imagine being able to bend the handle and the point of the hook is not welded on but machined from a solid piece of steel still I won't be around in forty more years to see if it lasted like the old one.


----------



## D8Chumley

Ashful said:


> Here's where someone will post a photo of a bulldozer.





Somebody call me?

I use a cant hook only because PECO left it on a job I was on a few years back. I left it there the whole next day, they never came back so in the back of the truck it went


----------

