# Little break from the firewood! ( pic heavy )



## swagler85 (Jan 10, 2013)

We've been wanting to build something to keep us dry between the house and garage. Snow tends to drift there and wanted to be able to walk into the house without getting rained on. So put ths up this past weekend!


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## swagler85 (Jan 10, 2013)




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## heat seeker (Jan 10, 2013)

That'll make a world of difference!
Also, maybe a pellet storage area? Was that the "hidden agenda", maybe...


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## swagler85 (Jan 10, 2013)

heat seeker said:


> That'll make a world of difference!
> Also, maybe a pellet storage area? Was that the "hidden agenda", maybe...


I bring firewood into the garage by the skid. That stays just inside the garage door you see in the pics. So a big benefit to me is no more going outside in my undies to get a load of firewood. This will also be used as the mud room. I will be building lockers with a bench under them. Used for coats hats boots ect. Wife's Pinterest ideas coming to life.


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## Flatbedford (Jan 11, 2013)

Is there are real foundation under that? And more importantly, what the heck were you doing with the chainsaw on the roof?


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## Jags (Jan 11, 2013)

Yeah baby.  I never have understood why unattached garages that were that close to the house, were never attached.  Seems like a no-brainer to me.


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## semipro (Jan 11, 2013)

Jags said:


> Yeah baby. I never have understood why unattached garages that were that close to the house, were never attached. Seems like a no-brainer to me.


Fire safety is one reason. Insurance companies recognize attached garages as an increased fire risk to the house and typically charge accordingly.

OP, nice work. You've inspired me to get off my butt and do something to the house this weekend.
If you don't already have a steel entry door on the garage you should consider installing one. In most places a steel (or other fire resistant door) is required between garage and house.


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## swagler85 (Jan 11, 2013)

Flatbedford said:


> Is there are real foundation under that? And more importantly, what the heck were you doing with the chainsaw on the roof?


Yes there was a real foundation poured for the build. 

Chainsaw was to trim the truss that was a too long. Others saws wouldn't reach.


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## swagler85 (Jan 11, 2013)

semipro said:


> Fire safety is one reason. Insurance companies recognize attached garages as an increased fire risk to the house and typically charge accordingly.
> 
> OP, nice work. You've inspired me to get off my butt and do something to the house this weekend.
> If you don't already have a steel entry door on the garage you should consider installing one. In most places a steel (or other fire resistant door) is required between garage and house.


Yes there is a steel door on the house side, also a second one going on the other side.


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## Flatbedford (Jan 11, 2013)

swagler85 said:


> Yes there was a real foundation poured for the build.


 
It was hard to tell in the picture.


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## swagler85 (Jan 12, 2013)

Flatbedford said:


> It was hard to tell in the picture.


The existing pad that was there was cut out for the footers and dug down. Also tied into the the existing footers on both sides. It is hard to tell from the pics.


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## ScotO (Jan 12, 2013)

Nice job Swags.  I've used my limbing saws many times for construction purposes......the Amish taught me that trick.


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## swagler85 (Jan 12, 2013)

Yes I tried a circular saw and it cut down to about 2 inches off the plate. Couldn't finish the cut so grabbed the chain saw. Worked like a charm, and had to throw a pic in there.  Got the roof on now, gotta wait on electrician now.


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## semipro (Jan 12, 2013)

How did you flash the interface where the new roof meets the sidewalls of the garage and house?


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## ScotO (Jan 12, 2013)

semipro said:


> How did you flash the interface where the new roof meets the sidewalls of the garage and house?


 I was going to ask the same thing.  Swagler, did you put some flashing up behind the siding on both the garage and house?  I can see where you cut the siding out to get at the sheathing, but didn't see any flashing agains the house when you shingled it......make sure you have flashing there or prepare to be miserably mad at the water problems you're gonna have....


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## swagler85 (Jan 12, 2013)

Yeah it's flashed. Slid a piece of flashing under each shingle and up under the siding. Finished it at the bottom by cutting a slot in the siding and bringing that flashing out over the drip edge. Will also slide in j channel to finish off the siding.  I roofed for 5 years so that part was a breeze. 

Lower right corner you can see the flashing


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## Freakingstang (Jan 12, 2013)

looks like a kick butt wood storage/dry area to me. I found out all about the insurance when I bought my place. My 48x40 is attached to the house the insrance said its a 12 car garage.  I said no way, maybe 7-8 if i'm lucky.  they way they see it, its 12 times the risk of 12 mini explosions that set off more... My rates are high beause of the size of the garage....I keep thinking about building some kind of shelted, covered breezeway off the back corner of the house for a little bit of wood storage. I have a huge concrete pad off the big living room where the stove is and don't have but a little bit inside.. The "undie factor is cool".  Great work.

-Steve


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## swagler85 (Mar 9, 2013)

Got a little more work done on the mud room!
Leveled out the floor with treated studs, layer down the floor, insulated and drywalled. Also threw together a light made out of barn wood and mason jars. Next on the list is mud the drywall and get the pallet board ceiling up. Plywood wall will be the back side of the lockers I'll be building.


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## Flatbedford (Mar 9, 2013)

I like the lights.


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## begreen (Mar 9, 2013)

Did you lay down a vapor barrier before putting in the raised floor studs?


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## ScotO (Mar 10, 2013)

I love the lights, swags.  And like BG said, did you put a plastic VB on the cement before studding?  I know it sounds like a PITA, but I'd be taking that subfloor back up and getting some kind of VB directly on the cement pad......if not, yer gonna get mold in that subfloor and eventually rot.....

That room is gonna be nice when you get it done....


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## Defiant (Mar 10, 2013)

Nice job!! love the windows & lights


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## swagler85 (Mar 10, 2013)

Gona have to fix that vapor barrier issue


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## woodgeek (Mar 10, 2013)

swagler85 said:


> Gona have to fix that vapor barrier issue


 
If the floor spacers are pressure treated, meh, probably ok.  I would only use vapor permeable flooring, or cut tiny button vents in the floor.


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## ScotO (Mar 10, 2013)

swagler85 said:


> Gona have to fix that vapor barrier issue





woodgeek said:


> If the floor spacers are pressure treated, meh, probably ok. I would only use vapor permeable flooring, or cut tiny button vents in the floor.


I'm thinking like WG is here.....try to ventilate the underfloor.  Maybe even vent it to the outside of the house....

Or you could use spray foam insulation and just fill the cavities full......that'd end the issue altogether....


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## jharkin (Mar 11, 2013)

swagler85 said:


> Yeah it's flashed. Slid a piece of flashing under each shingle and up under the siding. Finished it at the bottom by cutting a slot in the siding and bringing that flashing out over the drip edge. Will also slide in j channel to finish off the siding. I roofed for 5 years so that part was a breeze.
> 
> Lower right corner you can see the flashing


 
Doesn't the flashing need to go under the siding and *over* the shingles? Seems like the water can run into the corner and follow that flashing right under the shingles to attack the underlayment the way you described it.



BTW, nice fast build!


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## swagler85 (Mar 11, 2013)

jharkin said:


> Doesn't the flashing need to go under the siding and *over* the shingles? Seems like the water can run into the corner and follow that flashing right under the shingles to attack the underlayment the way you described it.
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, nice fast build!


Good question. When putting in flashing as you are shingling you use step flashing. That is 6"x6"  pieces bent in an L shape. Each shingle against the wall get a piece nailed over it and under siding. Then the next shingle covers that piece of flashing and another goes on top. So end result is you don't see the flashing unless you look in the gap between the shingle and siding. That pushes any water down the roof along the flashing and into the gutter (gutter yet to be installed).


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## jharkin (Mar 11, 2013)

Oh cool I didn't know that.


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## swagler85 (Mar 15, 2013)

Started into the ceiling today, I like it so far. Used pallet slats with felt paper behind so you can't see the insulation through the cracks.


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## Jags (Mar 15, 2013)

Remember to leave a small gap at the ends.  Natural wood will contract and expand.  Trim it out to cover the gaps.  Looking good so far.


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## ScotO (Mar 15, 2013)

Looking good, Swags.  I'll start a thread up when I get the living room done on all the stuff I did to the room.  I used a TON of reclaimed barn siding to cover up the structural beams, and also made some ceiling fan drops from the barnwood too.  I'm doing reclaimed antique fir flooring in that room too (it's out of an 1830's farmhouse), got it planed and re-tongue and grooved, it's going to be going in over the next week......

You're doing a nice job on the mudroom.  I love the idea of the mason jar lights and the reclaimed palletwood ceiling!!


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## Stax (Mar 18, 2013)

Swag...sweet job.  Like the creativity.  Room's gonna be awesome.


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## Eatonpcat (Mar 19, 2013)

Very nice!!


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## tim1 (Mar 28, 2013)

I love seeing the chainsaw at it best! When I was young, learned not to use the chainsaw when cutting out sheetrock!  Tim


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## gzecc (Mar 28, 2013)

swagler85 said:


> We've been wanting to build something to keep us dry between the house and garage. Snow tends to drift there and wanted to be able to walk into the house without getting rained on. So put ths up this past weekend!
> View attachment 88938
> View attachment 88939
> View attachment 88940
> ...


 Nail gun with out glasses on! Your asking for trouble. Nice job otherwise.


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## Eatonpcat (Mar 29, 2013)

gzecc said:


> Nail gun with out glasses on! Your asking for trouble. Nice job otherwise.


 
Yep...And I don't want to catch you running with scissors either!!


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## gzecc (Mar 30, 2013)

Eatonpcat said:


> Yep...And I don't want to catch you running with scissors either!!


 I've been splattered in the face and eye's with scrapnel from my nail gun. Unfortunately its only a matter of time.
Won't catch me without glasses on.


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## swagler85 (Mar 30, 2013)

This is looking straight up at the ceiling, have 3/4 of it done now. Man it's a lot of work taking apart that many pallets and keeping from breaking the boards. Also I did wear safety glasses for that. Working straight overhead reminded me that stuff will fall into my eyes and I was using a nail gun.


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## swagler85 (Apr 29, 2013)

Finally got the ceiling done and put the light back up!


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## swagler85 (Jun 1, 2013)

Here is the inside finished product of our addition. Just in time to sell the house now 
O well, it will help us sell.


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