# Martin Venturi Stove owners



## trobb (Nov 24, 2009)

Newbie here and need some advice.
I have a Martin Venturi pellet stove.
Like most pellet stoves it has forced air which also pushes the smoke out.
Here is my problem...
When burning there is no smoke smell at all, after I turn the stove off...which stops the fan pushing the smoke out, the next morning my basement is filled with smoke smell.
I have experimented with a few differant things to no avail.
Once you turn the stove off you can watch the firebox fill with smoke and it just trickles
out the pipe outside, and the pot just sits and smolders all night.
I have Simpson Duravent that is sealed up good and tight and I have already replaced
the rope gasket on the door.
I have done the dark room and flashlight thing...nothing.
The only thing I can think of is that the outside draw is not pulling the smoke out fast enough.
I also tried cracking the ash door and it seemed to really help push the smoke out faster.

Any ideas?


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## Dr_Drum (Nov 24, 2009)

When you "turn off" the stove the fan stops? Are you unplugging it? To my knowledge the exhaust fan should continue to run for some length of time until the fire and smoldering is completely out and the stove temp drops below a set temp. Adding more positive draft to the exhaust venting will help, but that fan should stay running (I believe).
Mike -


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## smalltown (Nov 24, 2009)

I agree with Dr_Drum. I am running a Quadrafire Castile and once the thermostsat stops calling for heat and the stove begins its shutdown sequence my exhaust fan will run for a while. Not sure but it seems to be 5 to 10 minutes after which everything is cooled down.


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## trobb (Nov 24, 2009)

No, it stops everything.
The pellet feed is ran by a thermostat, the problem with that is no matter how low
you set it, it will still feed the pot right about the time the fire goes out.
I unhooked the thermostat in hopes of it not feeding and then the fan would still
blow the smoke out but it didn't work...still feed the pot.
Short of redoing the mother board I don't know what else to do.
I was going to put an inline off/on switch to the thermostat but after finding out
the auger still feeds the pot when unhooked...I'm really confused now.


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## littlesmokey (Nov 24, 2009)

Unfortunately I am not familiar with your stove, put it would be the first one not to have a shut down cycle I am aware of. The Thermostat will control the feed to maintain temp, but there should be a way to turn the stove off. The exhaust fan should run until the low temp sensor in the exhaust stream hits the low shut off point. I would check with the dealer or manufacturer for the steps necessary.

That doesn't anwser the other question. Smoke smell through the night may be caused by negative air pressure. Others will suggest different sources, but the most likely to me would be air infiltrating backwards in the flow stream. Air is being drawn in through the stack and backwards through the burn pot and out the air intake. An OAK could eliminate that, or seeing why there is a pressure difference. Could be your furnace, water heater or other source demanding fresh air and using the stove as the path of least resistence. I would look for the other source and see what you can do about supplying it with air.

One forum member last year had a coal boiler with a blower that was sucking the basement dry. openned a window in the old coal shoot and problem solved. May want to see if you have a similar situation before blaming the stove for this part.


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## trobb (Nov 24, 2009)

Needing to interact with you on your stoves operation to make sure mine
is acting right.
Any owners out there?


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## krooser (Nov 25, 2009)

All hear are crickets.....


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## jtakeman (Nov 25, 2009)

krooser said:
			
		

> All hear are crickets.....



chirp, chirp, chirp chirp, chirp, chirp chirp, chirp, chirp

Sorry, just had to play along.

Anyway. I never heard of that brand. Maybe someone out there has. Its still early in the season. We will get to high gear soon.

Good luck. Hope you get some info!
jay


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## hearthtools (Nov 27, 2009)

sorry I did not see this before

this stove is one of the original.

Bottom feed.
Positive air.

what questions do you have because I cant type everything im thinking here I will be here all day.

Just be sure all your doors are sealed tight and the HOPPPER LID is the most important to keep closed and shut tight or you will get smoke in the hopper


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## hearthtools (Nov 27, 2009)

trobb said:
			
		

> No, it stops everything.
> The pellet feed is ran by a thermostat, the problem with that is no matter how low
> you set it, it will still feed the pot right about the time the fire goes out.
> I unhooked the thermostat in hopes of it not feeding and then the fan would still
> ...



Ok this is a Positive air stove
it pushes air into the burn pot Unlike most other pellet stoves that suck the combustion air.
this stove works just like the Pellet master stove so if you search for pellet master here you will get some ideas also.

it is bottom fed

the thermostats only job is to turn the room air blower to low and the feed rate to a keep fire mode (low) when not calling for heat.

when you shut this stove off it shuts off the feed and combustion blower but the room air blower will stay on so it cools.
THIS IS WHY IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU HAVE A MINIMUM OF 8 FEET OF VERTICAL 4"  VENT PIPE ON THIS STOVE. so it drafts the smoke out of the stove when you shut it off.


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## hearthtools (Nov 27, 2009)

Please give us more info on your stove

Free stand or insert?

How is it vented. Out the wall and up or just up. Is it connection to a wood stove pipe or chimney?


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## trobb (Nov 30, 2009)

Freestanding with the collar on top of the stove.
I have 4" Simpson Dura-vent ran straight up about 3+/- to and elbow
straight out a wall thimble, then I have about 18" of pipe outside and it is horizontial, with the end
cap being a 45 degree turndown.

Upon working with it over the weekend I noticed that the smoke is coming back through
my blower motor after the stove is turned off, not all the time though...so that leads me to believe it's not drawing to good.

Also, the blower motor that blows the warm air does not stay on when the unit is off.
Is that right? Never heard of a stove that does not have a fan to run a "cool down" stage
after the unit is off.

Anyway, I'm buying more pipe today and hopefully if I can improve the draw on it.
If that don't work I'm selliing it...

Thanks for all the advice guys.


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## trobb (Nov 30, 2009)

THIS IS WHY IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU HAVE A MINIMUM OF 8 FEET OF VERTICAL 4"  VENT PIPE ON THIS STOVE. so it drafts the smoke out of the stove when you shut it off.[/quote]

When you say 8' do you mean all together or like 3' inside the house and 5' outside?


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## hearthtools (Nov 30, 2009)

trobb said:
			
		

> THIS IS WHY IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU HAVE A MINIMUM OF 8 FEET OF VERTICAL 4"  VENT PIPE ON THIS STOVE. so it drafts the smoke out of the stove when you shut it off.



When you say 8' do you mean all together or like 3' inside the house and 5' outside?[/quote]

I recomend 8 feet out side also because you need a way to suck the smoke out of the horizontal pipe
it really needs draft to get the smoke out of the stove.

as for the room air blower not staying on the limit switch might have went out on it and someone bypassed it.


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## FireintheHole (Dec 1, 2009)

Just wondering if you had it running on a t-stat. Maybe switching to manual setting and then shutting down would go through the
fan cool down cycle. ( Some electronic glitch in the stove?)


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## rickwa (Dec 1, 2009)

sounds like a circuit board problem. but if that is the way it is suppose to work with all the vertical rise and such that is a terrible control system for a pellet stove


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## hearthtools (Dec 1, 2009)

this stove and the pellet master have a very basic control board
it only controls feed times to the auger and the the idle mode if the stove is connected to a stat.

it does not control any other function or change voltage to blowers  but to turn the unit on when you flick the switch.


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## mattwade808 (Dec 2, 2009)

I just bought one tonight but haven't brought it home.  I'll have it in front of me tomorrow night.  I've been looking for some information on it too.  Is there a manual online perhaps?  The one I bought is not functioning but all the motors turn.  It seems to be an auger jam.  I'll follow this thread I think.  Good luck in your quest


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## hearthtools (Dec 2, 2009)

I merged you two threads together


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## mattwade808 (Dec 3, 2009)

Here's a link to a page that has a link to the Venturi FS3 manual in pdf form in case it helps anyone in the future.

http://www.api-assembled.com/support/martin/martin.htm


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## trobb (Dec 5, 2009)

Well I added 200 dollars of more pipe in hopes of improving the draft...no luck.


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## hearthtools (Dec 5, 2009)

trobb said:
			
		

> Well I added 200 dollars of more pipe in hopes of improving the draft...no luck. This SOB is driving me nuts and will for sale very shortly.  Sad thing is... is when its burning its an awesome machine, when the fire goes out is when things go south and I can't seem to fix it. I appreicate all the advise to this point and feel free to pimp your stove because I will be looking for another so any pros and cons on certain brands would be great. Wish I woulda found this site before I bought that POS I wound up with.



So you only have a problem with smoke when you shut it off?
If so it is a draft problem

Photos of your venting systems will help us.
Cell phone camera works great.

Make sure you have a rise in the horizontal pipe.
also not sure what unit you have FSII or FS III but make sure the chamber behind the firebrick that goes up into the 4" vent connector is clear.
Make sure your door, hopper lid and ash pan are sealing AIR TIGHT

I sold about 150 of them back in 1990 and 91and still have about 50 that I know of that I service and still working fine.


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## trobb (Dec 5, 2009)

Crazy thing has whipped me man. I think I am gonna get a more modern unit, cut my losses and take it like a man. Accorrdong to the operations manuel everything is working as it should...all except the smokey house. So I'm throwing up the white flag and moving on. The pellet stove theroy has sold me thought, I gotta 2 story house and that stove in my basement kept it at 68 on a 26 degree night. Not done burning pellets just yet, just done with ole smokey, lol.


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## johnny1720 (Dec 5, 2009)

Here is a quick solution.

Put a small toggle switch on the auger motor.  Then when you want to turn the stove off disconnect the power to the auger.  Then after about 5 minutes turn the stove off.  

Problem solved without actually solving the problem of not enough draft.

Johnny


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## hearthtools (Dec 5, 2009)

johnny1720 said:
			
		

> Here is a quick solution.
> 
> Put a small toggle switch on the auger motor.  Then when you want to turn the stove off disconnect the power to the auger.  Then after about 5 minutes turn the stove off.
> 
> ...



you will never burn all the pellets up to stop it from smoldering.
it is a bottom fed stove has a large auger that feeds directly from the bottom of the hopper to the bottom of the pot.


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## skydog (Dec 5, 2009)

Hello!Another newb here,long time wood burner,short time pellet burner.Just got one of these Martin stoves for free!Works good for me,sorry to see trobb have problems.mines the FS 31,got about 3 feet vertical,then 2 foot horizontal,then into masonary lined chimney 10 foot to the roof line.No problems with smoke backing up when shut down.As far as the thermostat goes, seems to kick in faster feed also as well as controling the room fan.Only been burning for about a month now,so still learning,I like it!Warren oh yeah I have a manual and parts list as well,if that's any help


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## trobb (Dec 20, 2009)

Well I stuck another 5' of pipe outside...for a total of 10' vertical pipe and that must of been the magic number.
No smokey house today...knock on wood
I burnt the stove for a few hours today, cut it off and she was drawing like a champ.
Burnt it the rest of the day and no problems.
Btw: my furnace has yet to kick on today.

Thanks for all the advise...hopefully we got it right this time.


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## skydog (Dec 20, 2009)

Havn't shut mine down except for cleaning,been using as only source of heat for a month and a half.Works great!


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## pellet (Dec 20, 2009)

Quoting Rod:  

"So you only have a problem with smoke when you shut it off?
If so it is a draft problem

Photos of your venting systems will help us.
Cell phone camera works great.

Make sure you have a rise in the horizontal pipe.
also not sure what unit you have FSII or FS III but make sure the chamber behind the firebrick that goes up into the 4" vent connector is clear.
Make sure your door, hopper lid and ash pan are sealing AIR TIGHT

I sold about 150 of them back in 1990 and 91and still have about 50 that I know of that I service and still working fine."

-


Rod/others here,

Newby here and have a Martin Venturi FS3 I'm working on.  It seems there is very little info available on them and my search of nearly a year finally led me to this forum.  I really need several answers to questions raised on this thread and in the work I am doing rebuilding the stove.  I downloaded the manual noted in the link elsewhere in this thread for the FS31 and read it.  My questions are:

1. Is the FS31 the same stove as the FS3?  If not what are the differences?  Is the FS3 manual available somewhere?  No luck finding it.

2. The controller board has two "stoker controller" terminals that have a jumper wire across them.  I'm taking a wild guess here, but was wondering if that may be the terminals that would connect to a thermostat to control the unit's burn rate as you describe elsewhere in this thread (lowers it to minimum when the stat is not calling for heat)?  I'm sure I can safely bring two wires out if that is in fact what they will do.

3. I note on another thread in this forum the auger speed may be 4 rpm.  Mine has a Dayton auger motor and indicates the speed is 6 rpm.  Is this a problem?  Not sure if it is original but looks like it could be.

4. I bought the FS3 without a room air blower or back cover. It must have quit on the last owner and was not available to see what it was. It did come with an extra blower (Dayton #2C610) which produces about 130 cfm and draws 1.02 amps.  I have adapted it (with some creative sheet metal work) to the back of the stove.  Is this air volume ok?  

5. Another question is will the rheostat speed control handle the amperage (1.02 amps) ok on the blower above?  There is some, but seems to be limited variation in the speed range of the rheostat controller on this non-original fan.  I do see an adjustment pot on the rheostat, would adjusting that widen the rpm range?  Or maybe it doesn't need a lot of speed range?

6. Any idea what the original room air blower was?  Looks like it might have been a double ended type from the mounting studs and openings on each side under the back.  None of the Dayton or Fasco blowers match the stud spacing on the stove.

7. Any idea if the back cover was vented or solid sheet metal and what it looked like?

I know this is long but I would really appreciate your help.  This has been a long and unproductive search so far and you appear to be a gold mine of information for me on Martin stoves.  If you or anyone else here can help it would be greatly appreciated.


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## trobb (Dec 20, 2009)

Only thing I can help you with is:
The room air blower on mine is a double blower.
The back cover is solid sheet metal, but I doubt it would matter since it is open underneath.
Lastly, in the operations manuel I downloaded it shows the underfire combustion air adjustment
to be on the right side behind the outer skin...well I don't have one.
One other problem I was having was, the hoppper was getting some smoke it is.
The OG rubber seal looked good but I did replace it with a rope gasket...problem solved.

Good luck, if you can get it to draw right its a dandy stove.






			
				pellet said:
			
		

> Quoting Rod:
> 
> "So you only have a problem with smoke when you shut it off?
> If so it is a draft problem
> ...


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## trobb (Dec 20, 2009)

forgot to add...
the stoker control is for your thermostat.

plus, on my stove on the manuf plate on the side it has printed or etched into the metal "fs3" then right next to it it has
a 1 stamped with a metal stamp. 

as I learn more about mine I will check in or pm you.


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## hearthtools (Dec 20, 2009)

I will get back to you on some info.
but yes the stoker is for the stat.
it puts the stove to low. cant remember about free stand but I know on the insert it put the blower to low also

I have a dealer book in my storage that Im going to dig out.


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## pellet (Dec 21, 2009)

Rod/firestarter:

Thanks loads for the response!  It's amazing after all the searching what I am finally finding on this forum!

On the room blower…I don’t suppose you might be able to read the label for a manufacturer/part number/identification could you? I’d sure like to identify that blower.  I looked long and hard with no luck. Can't seem to even find the CFM rating. My stove has four studs welded to the back and I assume they are for mounting that double ended blower.  They are spaced 13 1/2 apart side to side and 1 5/8 vertically and are 10x24 threaded studs.  I’m not sure if those four studs are used to mount the blower directly (my first guess but long searching hasn’t produced anything that fits) or if there is a plate of some kind used to mount the blower on first. I can’t imagine Martin using anything custom made instead of an “off the shelf” blower.

Thanks for the info on the back cover too.  Now I can go ahead and make one now that I know it doesn’t require vents on the back. I plan to leave the bottom open.

My stove, like yours, doesn’t have the underfire combustion air adjustment either.  I just took it apart to see.  If yours is an FS31 maybe the stat capability is the difference.  I know at times manufacturers just won't tell you what can be done and maybe charge more for the thermostat capability?  That makes me wonder what the differences really are between the FS3 and the FS31.  Rod, any thoughts here?

After reading both your comments on the stat connections I just took another look at the control board and it says right on it a little farther under where I couldn’t see readily “TSTAT”.  Guess that’s pretty clear.  Sometimes I just don’t pay attention. There are solder traces going to other components there too so I bet it is functional. The control board does have a connection marked “FAN” with a wire going to the rheostat and then on to the room air blower.  Rod, that could drop the fan speed when the stat is not calling for heat like you said.  Now I’m wondering if maybe something on the control board or rheostat might be what took out the original blower, or it may have just worn out from lack of maintenance. Any Ideas? I'd hate to ruin another blower not correcting a faulty control board or rheostat.

I just looked at the rheostat and.... again..... I'm not paying attention.  It says "3.0 AMPS FL   6.0 AMPS LR   120 VOLTS AC".  Looks like the rheostat will handle the 1.02 amps on the rigged in blower I have.  Any idea what the FL and LR after the amps means?

I’d love to get my hands on that book you have by a scanner Rod. I’d like to study it just for the knowledge base.  

What ever you guys can do will be very much appreciated.


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## hearthtools (Dec 21, 2009)

pellet said:
			
		

> Rod/firestarter:
> 
> Thanks loads for the response!  It's amazing after all the searching what I am finally finding on this forum!
> 
> ...



well the best way to check to see if the board is working is just to put a meter on each terminal (one on the common and the other on fan) and turn on the switch
and see what the voltage readings are.


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## trobb (Dec 21, 2009)

room blower info:
Durham
115 volt
50/60 hz
1.2 amp class b
MODEL # might be J250-112

addess on blower is
Durham Products
Div of Jakel Inc.
Durham, NC.

My auger motor is a Durham as well.
Cant tell what brand the stoker blower is.


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## skydog (Dec 22, 2009)

Best I can do for now


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## skydog (Dec 22, 2009)

more,sorry for the fuzzy pics,only have a web cam.Parts list only identify's the blower as #056056 blower convection air assy.


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## pellet (Dec 22, 2009)

Rod - Thanks, will check the voltage as soon as I get it back together.  I assume I should be seeing 120v there?

Trobb - Thanks a BUNCH for the blower info.  When I got it I started checking and found out Durham was bought out by Fasco.  I am now waiting for a call back from one of Fasco's divisions to see if they still produce it or a viable replacement.  Will try to let everyone know what I find out.

Skydog - Thanks for the try on the parts list.  It appears, as best I can make out, there is no mounting/adapter plate on the convection blower.  It looks like it just bolts to the back of the stove.  Sound right?

I guess I should contribute something to the knowledge base.  This may provide alternate parts identification If you ever need them.  Here is the info I have collected from the parts on my stove:

Martin Venturi - Model FS-3

Auger Motor:  
Dayton Gearmotor     Chicago, Ill., 60648         E75875   TPL   LR48980  TP
Volts-115    Hz.-60   continuous duty    RPM-6   Amp-1.12    9Z380A     047012   9/90   WMS

Combustion Air Fan:
Fasco Industries Inc.   #7021-7616    Type U21B     H.P.- 1/125     VoltS-115    Hz.-50/60    Amp-0.40/0.42 AO
Thermally Protected    RPM-3030   Customer Part# 039919   Class B     CJ90

Convection Air Fan  (NOT ORIGINAL – MAJOR ADAPTING NECESSARY - 130 CFM AND NO IDEA HOW IT COMPARES TO THE ORIGINAL BLOWER FAN CFM):
Dayton   Model  2C610      Motor(only) 4K750      Continuous duty    
H.P.- 1/30    RPM- 2710/3020   Volt- 115    Hz.- 50/60    Amp -1.16/1.02    Insulation-Class A   
Bower Reference#  122130V050C13G       #7012-2001
Dayton Electric Manufacturing Company, Chicago, Ill. 60648

Rheostat (for Convection Fan):
KB Electronics (HK) LLC.
Model   KBMS-13  BVNS
3.0 amps  FL
6.0 amps  LR
120 volts  AC
 -
Anyone have any idea what the high limit switch is?


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## skydog (Dec 22, 2009)

O.K. got my old scanner hooked up let's try this,no specs given for limit switch


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## pellet (Dec 22, 2009)

Don't suppose I could talk you into scanning the parts listing could I?  Thanks for the parts picture....sure better than not having anything!


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## skydog (Dec 22, 2009)

You asked for it!


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## pellet (Dec 22, 2009)

Thanks for the parts list info.  One more thing.  What is your auger speed?  Mine is 6 rpm but I'm not sure it is original.


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## hearthtools (Dec 22, 2009)

Im a little fuzzy on details but im sure all of them were 4 RPM
i holding off on giving more info unitll I find that book.


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## pellet (Dec 22, 2009)

OK, thanks.  That book is some find for me.  BTW, lived in Fresno for a while a couple of years ago and went thru Oakhurst quite a bit going fishing.  Pretty area.


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## hearthtools (Dec 22, 2009)

pellet said:
			
		

> OK, thanks.  That book is some find for me.  BTW, lived in Fresno for a while a couple of years ago and went thru Oakhurst quite a bit going fishing.  Pretty area.


then you drove right by my store. (when it was open)


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## pellet (Dec 23, 2009)

Sorry you had to close it, you'd think there would be high demand in the area.


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## hearthtools (Dec 23, 2009)

pellet said:
			
		

> Sorry you had to close it, you'd think there would be high demand in the area.



Economy and high cost. my liablilty was over 22k per year.

Anyway I am going to work on a FsII today I will take a photo of the blower.


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## pellet (Dec 25, 2009)

Thanks Rod, looking forward to it and the info in the book.


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## pellet (Jan 13, 2010)

Any more info out there on these stoves?  Sure would like to hear if there is.
Thanks!


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## hearthtools (Jan 16, 2010)

my facebook page has photos of me cleaned a FS2 after a burn back because the Renter did not think it was important to keep the hopper lid shut
and they screwed up the gasket also. EVEN WITH THE BIG RED WARNING LABEL
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=143804&id=61927828163&ref=mf


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## pellet (Jan 18, 2010)

Rod,

Thanks loads for the pics  That is the first I have been able to see the original convection fan for my stove.  I can see the combustion blower on mine is probably the original but the convection blower was missing.  I now have something rigged in and it seems to be working but have no idea if it is any where near the correct CFM.  

Two questions:
1-Would you care to guess what the CFM rating on that original double ended blower was?  With your experience I imagine you can come pretty close to an accurate estimate.
2-I don't suppose you noted what the temp. rating of the limit/safety thermodisk switch was did you?  or maybe you didn't have to replace it.  I'd just like to know in case I ever need one.

It certainly is clear for the need to keep the hopper door closed and sealed properly.  Hope no one was hurt in the fire.  Maybe the label wasn't big enough?


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## hearthtools (Jan 18, 2010)

pellet said:
			
		

> Rod,
> 
> Thanks loads for the pics  That is the first I have been able to see the original convection fan for my stove.  I can see the combustion blower on mine is probably the original but the convection blower was missing.  I now have something rigged in and it seems to be working but have no idea if it is any where near the correct CFM.
> 
> ...



Cfm on the room air blower is not critical because you can change the speed with the rheostat . but I think each side is 60 CFM so a total of 120

If you are talking about the auger over heat. I believe it is a 200 deg switch.

If you do have a FS2 there are a few mods you can do to make the stove heat better. this stove did not have them so I dont have photos.
but a sheet metal plate on top of the stove under the louvers to make the air force out the front
Fabricate two metal Chanel plenums to slide down between the hopper and the firebox. the same size as the rectangle chamber just above the blower outlets
this will make the air flow better to the top of the stove. The factory sent our instructions to do this on stoves installed. I still cant find that book.
there also was a mod to make a little plenum about 5 inches long to go into  and below the exhaust chamber just below the brick to have the heat flow down lower in the fireblox before it went up the vent.

someone said there auger motor was 6 rmp im sure all the martins were 4RPM and that is what was on this and what I replaced it with.
attached are photos I took of the blower before I cleaned and mounted on the silicone


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## pellet (Jan 19, 2010)

Rod,
Thanks for the pics, with the blower model number visible!  Unfortunately searching hasn't come up with any info on the blower.  Probably no longer manufactured.  My luck.

My stove is an FS3.  Are the modifications you mentioned ones I can make to improve my stove's efficiency?  (Some of these maybe?)  There are no channels down the back as you describe but it has a piece of flat bar on edge vertically in the area.  It's certainly not sealed as it goes up by any means.  There is also open space by the two ducts you mentioned above where the double ended blower goes on the circuit board side of the stove and in the middle above the auger housing. I wondered why they just left it open for air to come out and down from the blower.

My auger is a 6 rpm and made by Dayton (could be a replacement, would Dayton have been OEM?).  Should I assume it is wrong and look for a 4 rpm?

My blower (the one I rigged in) is a 130 cfm so guess I will leave it alone until spring anyway.  It should be safe.

The hot wire from the 120v power cord is connected to one of two wires that go up above the double ended blower ducts between the hopper and the fire box.  I assume there is a bi-metal disk switch up there as a safety (high limit) shutdown.  The second wire that comes back down is connected to the control circuit board to supply power.  That is the 200 degree F thermo-disk switch up there, right?

You lost me on the 5 inch duct below the fire box.  Can you explain further?  Or maybe a drawing?
I would like to improve the efficiency wherever feasible.  Thanks for the info.


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## pellet (Feb 10, 2010)

Bump?.....anyone?


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## mattwade808 (Nov 19, 2010)

Just wondering if any of the above mentioned improvements were made and possibly photo'd.  My Martin seems to have the problem of smoking when shut off so I'm thinking I need more pipe added as well.


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## mattwade808 (Dec 9, 2010)

Any Martin stove owners out there still?  this season mine is smelling terribly of smoke.  I noticed around the door that smoke was coming out.  I replaced the door and ash door gaskets.  The ash door still smoked a little.  I high temp caulked all around it stopping the smoke from coming out but the air that comes from the blower still has a strong smell.  With the lights out and a flashlight checking around everywhere, I don't see any smoke but when I put my nose to the air blowing out, it smells very strongly.  Can anyone think of something I'm missing?  Really frustrated right now.  Thanks.


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## pellet (Dec 9, 2010)

A hole or breach in your fire box maybe?


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## mattwade808 (Dec 9, 2010)

i'm wondering that.  Do you have a Martin Pellet?  It looks like there are 4 bolts holding the top on but of course they're frozen and I'll probably need to cut them.  Thanks for the reply.


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## mattwade808 (Dec 9, 2010)

There's a squarish pipe that runs from behind the fire bricks behind the burn pot that goes up to meet with the external flue pipe and I'm wondering if that's not where my leak is.  With a flashlight I can see the weld in there.  Half of it is rusty looking.  It looks like the top of the stove comes off after removing the pipe and 4 bolts and then I should be able to get a look at the joint.  Does this sound familiar to anyone?  Has anyone had this problem?


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## trobb (Dec 10, 2010)

I have been fighting my Martin for 2 years now with post burn smoke.
I am CONVINCED unless you have it piped into a chimney or stove pipe that exceeds the peak
of your roof...your gonna get smoke in the house...atleast I do.
When I shut mine down; after the outside pipe cools I get a backdraft, you can watch smoke come back through
the convection blower vents.
Solution...once the blower has cooled I put a couple pieces of that real good clear shipping tape over the vent holes
on the convection blower...problem solved.
I started with 5' of outside pipe, and then went to 10'...still got smoke.
Even at 10' I am still a good 15 foot short of my roofs peak...tape is cheaper than duravent, lol.

I fought off the urge to wear this stove out with a 16 pound sledge hammer many times before I figured her out.
Glad I didn't...this stove is solid as a jug and works like a charm...just needs a chimney to vent properly, IMO.
Try the tape...works for me, just make sure you let it cool down 10 minutes or so.

Good luck with yours...


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## pellet (Dec 10, 2010)

I read on this forum (and maybe earlier in this same thread) there was a minimum of 12 feet of vertical pipe required for these stoves to draw correctly.  I made sure I had 13 feet and rarely have any back draw.  Very rarely when the wind is just so I will get just a hint of smoke.


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## mattwade808 (Dec 10, 2010)

Thanks for the responses guys.  I took my pipe down last night and it looks like a bird or mouse had started to build a nest.  I cleaned it out and it runs like it did last year.  Pretty embarrassing jumping to conclusions like I did and being ready to shoot holes in the stove when it ended up being a simple thing like that.  I'm posting my story as a warning I guess.  I have two feet of pipe vertical and then a 90 degree straight out the wall and 18 inches outside.  I believe that's what one of you guys had and couldn't get it to draft.  I've had pretty good luck with it.  Maybe the direction of the winds has something to do with it.  Anyway, thanks for your help.


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## mattwade808 (Jan 8, 2011)

I wonder if there are Martin stove owners still out there.  I've the toughest time with my stove this winter so far.  I've had 3 times in the past week where my auger gets jammed.  I pulled it out and cleaned twice.  Tonight was going to be the third.  I decided before I started that no more corn would be burned, just straight pellets.  While removing the auger, the wires from the motor came loose.  I can't figure out where they go.  I've tried every combo.  One combo, the auger turns and never stops.  There's always been one loose wire.  Can't remember which one.  I bought the stove used and abused.  Any help out there?


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## mattwade808 (Jan 8, 2011)

sorry,, double post


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## mattwade808 (Feb 11, 2011)

In case there are any Martin stove users out there still I'll give an update on my situation.  I had some components on the control board replaced.  They were burned.  Got everything wired just right.  Used the stove twice and the third time, the auger was jammed once again.  I pulled it out last night and cleaned it.  It looked like after being shut off, the pellets in the auger tube had been burned.  The hopper seal seems fine but I may try to tighten the lid down tonight.  I've also installed switches to control the auger motor and the burn pot fan so that I can turn both off and let the exhaust work for awhile and hopefully not fill the garage with smoke like it has been after shut down.  Any thoughts on the switches and burn back?


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## pellet (Nov 8, 2011)

hearthtools said:
			
		

> this stove and the pellet master have a very basic control board
> it only controls feed times to the auger and the the idle mode if the stove is connected to a stat.
> 
> it does not control any other function or change voltage to blowers  but to turn the unit on when you flick the switch.





Rod,
Do you know if these boards are interchangeable?  It would be great to know a Pellet Master board might be a source of replacement control board for the Martin Venturi!


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## pellet (Nov 8, 2011)

burny said:
			
		

> I wonder if there are Martin stove owners still out there.  I've the toughest time with my stove this winter so far.  I've had 3 times in the past week where my auger gets jammed.  I pulled it out and cleaned twice.  Tonight was going to be the third.  I decided before I started that no more corn would be burned, just straight pellets.  While removing the auger, the wires from the motor came loose.  I can't figure out where they go.  I've tried every combo.  One combo, the auger turns and never stops.  There's always been one loose wire.  Can't remember which one.  I bought the stove used and abused.  Any help out there?




FYI, Assembled Products has a manual you can download on their website for the Martin FS-31.  It has a wiring diagram for the stove in it.  I know it is the same as mine and would be a good bet it is for yours too.


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## skydog (Nov 19, 2011)

Yep,still some Martin users out here!Just put a new auger motor on tonite,Gleason-Avery to the rescue!Was reasonably priced,looks well made,6rpm,seems to be fine!Part #A-906.Went to the API website,was amazed at all the parts they carry now,used to just be control boards.As far as the auger motor wired,it's one lead connected with the white common bundle and the other lead is the yellow one coming from the board.The red wire out of the control board goes to the fans,the white lead goes to the common bundle and the black wire goes to the limit switch.Hope that helps.


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## Jim-n-NM (Jan 2, 2014)

skydog said:


> Yep,still some Martin users out here!Just put a new auger motor on tonite,Gleason-Avery to the rescue!Was reasonably priced,looks well made,6rpm,seems to be fine!Part #A-906.Went to the API website,was amazed at all the parts they carry now,used to just be control boards.As far as the auger motor wired,it's one lead connected with the white common bundle and the other lead is the yellow one coming from the board.The red wire out of the control board goes to the fans,the white lead goes to the common bundle and the black wire goes to the limit switch.Hope that helps.



I know this forum may be long past useful by now, but I got some great information from it as late as Dec 2013.
I just bought an old Martin Venturi FS3 for $300, and put in about $120 dollars in parts, consisting of the following: 
a new auger motor / gearbox (the old gears were broken, probably from repeated auger jams)
a new convection blower control ( the old one's stem was broken off)
Disassembled, inspected, cleaned and repainted, and the thing works like a charm!  
I did make a few mods to it.
I was getting auger jams, particularly with Pennington pellets, but also with others, so I put a "baffle plate" in the bottom to cover part of the auger, so it wouldn't get an overload of pellets. 
I added an auger "override" momentary push button so I could make the auger feed by pushing the button, and not have to wait for a signal from the control board ( really handy for "priming" the auger).  
I also added a fan speed control for the combustion air, so I could tweak the speed to get rid of an annoying "harmonic hum".  It didn't take much of a change and doesn't seem to have had any adverse effect on the burn pot.
If there is anyone still out there using these stoves, I'll be happy to take and upload pictures.


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