# Selkirk vs. Duravent



## jjames (Dec 29, 2010)

Hello,

I am closing in on completing my hearth, and installing a PE T6.

I am curious if Selkirk pipe would be a better buy than duravent, and have had a difficult time searching the stovepipe threads here at hearth.cim so i feel less than confident about what I should know re. stovepipe.

The PE is a stand-alone unit, corner install with a pitched cathedral ceiling. At this time I am looking at doing single wall pipe up to the ceiling and then going out with the double wall chimnney.

The single wall will be a 8-9 ft rise to the ceiling, with about a foot of ceiling/rafter space and a 5 ft chimney past that.

This is a straight shot with no bends.


Also, since the T6 has an air adjustment, is a flue damper necessary? I read a thread stating that it was not, because you have th edamper on the stove....

Would there be any advantage to not having one, or is it actually 100% necessary?


----------



## jjames (Dec 29, 2010)

was it something i said?

Is my question stupid? Was it cause I chose a T6 instead of a Blaze King?


----------



## cmonSTART (Dec 29, 2010)

Both brands will do fine and both have customers who are very happy.  Personally I prefer Dura Vent.  I think the quality is better.  

Because your chimney sounds a bit on the shorter side, I wouldn't use a damper.  The do restrict flow even when open.  I also would do double wall pipe if possible because of the longish span of single wall.  It's more expensive, but worth it if you can IMO.  

I would also try to put an extra length of chimney pipe on if possible.  

I'm biased towards BK obviously, but the T6 is a great stove!  Enjoy it!


----------



## jjames (Dec 29, 2010)

Thanks for the feedback, i didn't consider that the total pile lengh was a factor.

All told the total pipe lengh is going to be about 14 ft. 

Has anyone had issues with a chimney that height not drawing well?

My reasoning for the singe wall inside was to keep as much heat as possible in the house....


----------



## Renovation (Dec 29, 2010)

Hello and welcome, JJ!

It's nothing you said, we just don't like the letter J.  Kidding! 

Folks here are passionate about their setups, and respect and enjoy different choices--never refuse information!  I myself am leaning toward a King, but like the look and flame display of the Anderleas, and know they're great stoves.

Regarding your questions, I'm designing an install too, and I'll give you the "benefit" of my research, for consideration and discussion.

Reading your description, my main concern is your choice of single-wall chimney pipe.  That's the only choice you mention that, along with your chimney height, would significantly affect performance.

Modern stoves are tuned to radiate heat from the stove, not the chimney pipe, and want a well-insulated flue which will draw well and stay clean even with modern stove's relatively cool exhausts.  Single wall is cheaper, and getting more heat out of the chimney pipe sounds good, but increases creosote formation in your entire flue and lowers draft.

This may or may not be a problem with a particular set up, but since you're clearly worried about quality and performance, why choose the lesser performing stove pipe?  

That said, your other concerns are, in my opinion, a  matter of preference rather than clear superiority.

Simpson and Selkirk are both good brands.  From my own investigations, particularly at NorthlineExpress, I'm leaning toward Simpson, because it doesn't need locking bands between Class A sections, and their longest section is 5', versus 4' for Selkirk.  For the ultimate, there's that Canadian brand--three letters I think--that is certified to a higher standard than US, and claims higher performance.  I do not think you'll find anyone who followed good practices who is unhappy with any of those brands.

Stovepipe dampers are most useful with non-cat EPA stoves, which you have, hooked to tall chimneys, which you don't have.    They pose a slight disadvantage in draft, flue cleaning, and cost, so in your case I suggest you skip it.

With double wall stove pipe, your setup sounds great, what with the bend-fee interior pipe, and the great stove.  Your chimney may be a little on the short side, which is another reason to go with the draft-improving double wall chimney pipe.  Keep that in mind, with a eye towards lengthening your chimney and if your stove is sluggish in warm weather, etc.

HTH, and feel free to continue the conversation, despite your initials.


----------



## Nic36 (Dec 29, 2010)

The minimum amount of chimney for your stove is 15 feet. That is measured from the bottom of the stove to the top of the chimney. So, you will actually meet the minimum required length. Kind of opposite of you, but I have 5 feet of single wall and 10 feet of double wall Class A chimney and my stove drafts very well.

I do know a very long run of single wall is not recommended, but 8 or 9 feet doesn't seem that long to me. Maybe someone else can comment on that. 

A damper shouldn't be necessary. I don't have one.


----------



## Renovation (Dec 29, 2010)

cmonSTART said:
			
		

> Both brands will do fine and both have customers who are very happy.  Personally I prefer Dura Vent.  I think the quality is better.
> 
> Because your chimney sounds a bit on the shorter side, I wouldn't use a damper.  The do restrict flow even when open.  I also would do double wall pipe if possible because of the longish span of single wall.  It's more expensive, but worth it if you can IMO.
> 
> ...



+1

Wow, synchronicity.  Yeah, I agree with all the above, including the recommendation to lengthen your chimney now.

Notice how CS said what I did, with about a 10th the words--same as it ever was.

"Please forgive the length of this letter, I did not have time to write a shorter one."


----------



## jjames (Dec 29, 2010)

Ok, sorry about all the J's..... 

Thanks for the input.

Would an extra 3-4 ft of chimney do the trick vs, going with double wall pipe inside?

So say my options are "Lenghten the Chimney" or "Go with double wall interior" which would be more advantageous?

(Obviously a double wall interieor with a longer chimney would be ideal, but I am pinching pennies here....)


----------



## jjames (Dec 29, 2010)

Oh and by the way, I started out by scrounging 3 full cords of wood, 2 years ago.

Not sure how much I will burn during a wunter, but as soon as i get this baby installed, i'm gonna start scrounging for next year....

I have learned that you cannot season your wood long enough from this forum!

Also, you all probably already know this, but wood cut in jan/feb has its least sap/water content and drys much faster compared to wood cut in summer?

Courtesy of Eric Sloane.


Thanks for the great feedback, you folks have me thinking....


----------



## begreen (Dec 29, 2010)

dj, coming in late to the conversation, I've held back because as a T6 owner, I am obviously biased. Our T6 is vented using 20 ft of Simpson duravent pipe, double-wall inside and drafts just about right. I tried a flue damper on it, and pulled it off. No need for it even when burning in 45mph winds. 

The Alderlea T6 a great heater and a versatile stove with the added benefit of not looking like a washing machine parked in your living room  and running on 6" pipe. But I do admit an occasional bk or woodstock cat envy during mild weather. That is until my wife gives me a dope slap up the side of the head. When it's really cold outside, both stoves have to be run for heat, not long burn. Instead of going for 20 hrs burns in mild weather, we run the heat pump. 

I would definitely go by cmonSTART's good recommendations to use double-wall inside. It wouldn't hurt to add a couple feet (with a pipe brace) on the outside. These measures will improve draft, particularly in milder weather and will keep the flue hotter and therefore cleaner.


----------



## dougand3 (Dec 29, 2010)

I've got 6ft of single wall stove pipe and 9 ft of Class a chimney (thru the attic, then roof decking)..and it drafts super. I'd think 8 ft of single wall and then 6 ft of Class A (2 x 3 ft sections) should do well.


----------



## begreen (Dec 29, 2010)

Stoves are not built, nor draft equally. This is particularly true for pre and early EPA stoves as compared to modern units. We ran our old Resolute on a poorer flue setup and it worked fine. But if I put a Castine on it, you'd get a snootful of smoke every time you opened the door.


----------



## Renovation (Dec 29, 2010)

BeGreen said:
			
		

> The Alderlea T6 a great heater and a versatile stove with the added benefit of not looking like a washing machine parked in your living room



Oh that's low.  True, but low. ;-)



			
				double j said:
			
		

> Ok, sorry about all the J's.....
> 
> We'll let you live.  For now...
> 
> ...



Well, then I'd go with the double-wall stovepipe.  It will keep your flue cleaner, and draft better.  Best of all, if you still have draft problems, you can easily add more height later without any loss of time or money--you wouldn't want to replace single wall pipe.

HTH, and happy burning.


----------



## dougand3 (Dec 29, 2010)

Good point, BG. The 1990 Acclaim is a bit old for direct comparison . LOL.


----------



## mywaynow (Dec 29, 2010)

Any opinions on Metal-Fab stove pipe?  I have all the insulated items from the thimble adapter to the cap in Metal-Fab.  I was fortunate enough to find a gentleman selling his setup that was used 2 seasons.  My total outlay including 2 new sections to complete the run was 850.  I was quite content at that number especially considering the quote for the same setup in Duravent was over 2k.  It is stainless 6 inch id.


----------



## Midalake (Dec 30, 2010)

I would also like to know what the board thinks about Metal-fab pipe? I Know its lighter and has a Galv. option for non weather exposed areas. Opinions??

Dave



			
				mywaynow said:
			
		

> Any opinions on Metal-Fab stove pipe?  I have all the insulated items from the thimble adapter to the cap in Metal-Fab.  I was fortunate enough to find a gentleman selling his setup that was used 2 seasons.  My total outlay including 2 new sections to complete the run was 850.  I was quite content at that number especially considering the quote for the same setup in Duravent was over 2k.  It is stainless 6 inch id.


----------



## dougand3 (Dec 30, 2010)

mywaynow and Midalake...you'll get better responses in a new thread - eg: "Metal-Fab stove pipe opinions?" or similar.


----------

