# Through the wall chimney with soffit installation



## ewest (Mar 27, 2011)

I am installing a Supervent 6 inch through the wall chimney. My question is: what do I do at the soffit?  
The soffit extends 10inches from the outside wall of the house. Do I extend my horizontal TEE out that far and then go up. The
bottom support and wall brackets would have to be built out someway to accomodate this. Or do I notch my soffit out to accomodate this? It will be right at the peak of the gable end. Or can I go around the soffit with 15 degree elbows? 
I would appreciate  advice from anyone who has dealt with this before.


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## begreen (Mar 27, 2011)

Is there any possibility of going straight up inside the house? That would be the best and possibly least expensive solution. If not, 15Âº and 30Âº offsets are available. Selkirk Supervent has an offset chart on their website in the product literature section that has the catalog. http://www.selkirkcorp.com/supervent/product.aspx?id=220


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## ewest (Mar 27, 2011)

Thank you for the fast reply!
For a straight through the inside installation, the pipe would be running 20+ feet up in a room with a cathedral ceiling it would not
look good. I understand it would be the best way to install but the asthetics would not be good at all in this particular room. So the Supervent is OK to use the 15 degree elbows to offset on the exterior? I wasn't sure, I thought I read somewhere that it was only for interior offsets.


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## Hogwildz (Mar 27, 2011)

You could cut the soffit out with the needed clearance and do without the elbows. Easier to clean I would bet.


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## ewest (Mar 27, 2011)

Does anyone know what the maximum horizontal run allowed is for a through the wall chimney?


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## Backwoods Savage (Mar 27, 2011)

I've seen it done both ways.


CAUTION:  If you go with the horizontal do not forget that you need a minimum of 1/4" rise per foot of horizontal pipe. The 1/4" is minimum. We went about 1/2" per foot and have no problems.


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## Wood Heat Stoves (Mar 27, 2011)

If you can't go straight up through the ceiling, then I would go with the offsets in the chimney as opposed to a long horizontal run out the wall. Horizontal pipe, even with the minimum rise, kills the draft, although a tall system will help offset that. It's also a place for ash and creosote to collect requiring disassembling the pipe to clean, which can be a real pain to do.


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## Backwoods Savage (Mar 27, 2011)

Wood Heat Stoves:  In theory you are very correct. In practice, we have not found that to be true at all. Our present chimney is horizontal through the wall and this is the second one we've had plus I've known a few others who have done this. I also recall one day I saw a fellow putting in a new one and I could hardly believe all the horizontal run he had before going up. I later found out he also had no problems with it. 

For sure if one does not have good dry wood he may very well have some big problems; even more so than if it were all vertical. The key, like all wood burning is in the fuel.


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## Wood Heat Stoves (Mar 27, 2011)

You're right about the key being dry wood and good, hot fires on a regular basis, as well as avoiding long, low burns. Tee systems with a run of horizontal pipe, while not as good as a straight up chimney system, work fine. My point was to avoid long horizontal runs, longer than you would normally do when going through a typical 2x4 or 2x6 wall and then up.


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## ewest (Mar 27, 2011)

Thank you all for your advice. It seems as though I can do it either way, and not notch out my soffit (which I would like to avoid). The horizontal run would be not more than 40 inches from the very start at  the inside elbow coming off the vertical pipe on the stove to the vertical TEE outside. Is 40 inches considered a long horizontal run? I am obviously a novice at this, so would appreciate specific advice.


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## Backwoods Savage (Mar 27, 2011)

Wood Heat Stoves said:
			
		

> You're right about the key being dry wood and good, hot fires on a regular basis, as well as avoiding long, low burns. Tee systems with a run of horizontal pipe, while not as good as a straight up chimney system, work fine. My point was to avoid long horizontal runs, longer than you would normally do when going through a typical 2x4 or 2x6 wall and then up.



That is what I thought you were trying to do and I do appreciate it, and you are also correct.


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## Wood Heat Stoves (Mar 27, 2011)

I would consider that a long horizontal run, but OK with the proper rise and a tall chimney system. You are going to have to take the pipe apart to clean it out often.


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## leeave96 (Mar 27, 2011)

I would notch out the soffit.  Presumably you are going to frame-in/finish the exterior vs having the SS chimney?

The reason I say notch out is that you have a straigh run when it comes time to clean the chinmey.
I am facing the same problem with my new addition.

Good luck,
Bill


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## aanderoy (Sep 8, 2011)

I am appreciating the advice in this posting !  I am doing a similar supervent thru-wall new install.  I have vinyl siding on the outside of the house. Do i screw the exterior wall support (for the t) thru the vinyl or should i remove the siding ?  Another option might be to pur verticle 2x4s across top of siding and screw that to the house framing, then screw the wall support to 2x4s ?  Any thoughts ?


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