# Installing wood furnace in cargo trailer



## catriverrat (Sep 9, 2015)

I have just bought a old house that I am remolding and I don't think I will have time to get chimney and stove installed before winter. 
My idea is to install my stove in a cargo trailer and pipe to the house has anyone done this before.


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## firefighterjake (Sep 9, 2015)

Thinking this would not work very well with a woodstove . . . wood furnace . . . maybe not so great either unless hooked up to duct work . . . but the biggest issue I would think would be getting the insurance company/inspecting agency (if required) to sign off on a very unconventional, temporary install.


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## begreen (Sep 9, 2015)

Well, can't say it hasn't been tried.


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## Jan Pijpelink (Sep 9, 2015)

begreen said:


> Well, can't say it hasn't been tried.


Question is: How long did it last?


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## begreen (Sep 9, 2015)

Prolly lasted the season, but it looks like leaks were an issue. Fact is that it probably would be only a day's worth of work saved to put it outdoors than in. And then you have materials that may be unnecessary for the in house install. Plus it is not going to work during an outage. 

Let's start from scratch here. Describe the house and options for installing a stove or furnace right now. Is there a basement? Is there a chimney that could be lined and used? Do you have some cords of wood already dried and seasoned?


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## catriverrat (Sep 9, 2015)

The house is a large two story with full basement with a older forced air furnace. At some time the chimney was removed down to the first floor. I do have a wood burning furnace from our other house that we moved. Also 6 to 8 cords of dry ash and oak ready to burn.


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## begreen (Sep 9, 2015)

Good deal on the wood. Maybe continue to remove the chimney all the way down and then put up a metal, chimney up the chase? What is the wood furnace make/model?


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## catriverrat (Sep 9, 2015)

begreen said:


> Good deal on the wood. Maybe continue to remove the chimney all the way down and then put up a metal, chimney up the chase? What is the wood furnace make/model?


 The stove is a us stove company I think origary bought from tractor supply co.


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## begreen (Sep 9, 2015)

If it's a Hot Blast model (1300-1500) then it would take 6" chimney pipe.


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## catriverrat (Sep 9, 2015)

My idea is to mount the furnace in the front half of a 16' x 8' charge trailer with chimney though the roof. I thought is I had it approx. 10' or 12' from house I could duct it into existing house furnace ond duct work.


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## begreen (Sep 9, 2015)

Personally I wouldn't do that for a number of reasons like: too short chimney, heat loss, wasted duct work, sealing from the weather, safety, and the fact that with another day's effort you have something permanent and safe instead of jerry-rigged and temporary.


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## catriverrat (Sep 9, 2015)

begreen said:


> Personally I wouldn't do that for a number of reasons like: too short chimney, heat loss, wasted duct work, sealing from the weather, safety, and the fact that with another day's effort you have something permanent and safe instead of jerry-rigged and temporary.


First of all I want to thank you for your time and options. The problem I have is if I want to continue to heat with wood my wife would prefer it be an outside furnace. I would think it would be safer. As for inslutating I'm a carpenter by trade so not a problem


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## jeff_t (Sep 9, 2015)

There is a lot of radiant heat that comes off the front of that furnace, and a little off the cabinet, that would be wasted in the trailer. That heat, combined with duct losses, kept my drafty, uninsulated basement in the mid to upper 60s.


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## begreen (Sep 9, 2015)

Not safer really unless the furnace has issues like a rusting heat exchanger and in that case it is just as dangerous outdoors as in. Most safety issues are with poor installation, poor maintenance and poor operation. All are possible with and indoor unit as well as outdoors. But with a furnace so close to the house there are smoke issues blowing against the house instead of high up on the roof, there is poor drafting which can lead to incomplete burns and creosote buildup, there is electric shock risk if not on a ground fault circuit, there are multiple water leakage potentials which can degrade the unit as well as increase shock potential, there is water intrusion into the ductwork or flange where it meets the house, there is the danger of running a metal plenum close to wood, there is power outage overheating to be considered, and so on. Not a trivial deal to do it right. That's why you don't see this done frequently.


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## Highbeam (Sep 9, 2015)

So you want a permanent outdoor wood burner to heat your home. Have you considered a wood boiler? It is easier to plumb hot water into the house for use than to duct air back and forth. Lots of folks have wood boilers outside in little sheds or just out in the elements. You could install a hot water coil in your forced air furnace and be in great shape. The wood boiler can be close to the home or a hundred feet away by your woodpile.

An outdoor wood furnace is not a good idea.


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## brenndatomu (Sep 9, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> First of all I want to thank you for your time and options. The problem I have is if I want to continue to heat with wood my wife would prefer it be an outside furnace. I would think it would be safer. As for inslutating I'm a carpenter by trade so not a problem


I'd be a lot more inclined to throw up some sort of concrete block or metal building to put the furnace in and then insulate the heck out of it and the duct work to/from the house too. 
Still not the ideal setup though...the Hotblast should have been named the woodblast for the way they blast through a load of wood. Of course you are already familiar with that feature and really, it's not any worse, probably better than an OWB.
Also agree with the above comments about the loss of the radiant heat, not insignificant on the HB.
And then there is the issue of what happens to the furnace and the duct work during a power outage, if you can run the supply duct uphill the whole way then maybe that's not an issue.
As far as safer, if the furnace is installed and run correctly I would say that it is perfectly safe in the house, if I didn't believe that I wouldn't heat my familys home with almost 100% wood heat


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## catriverrat (Sep 9, 2015)

brenndatomu said:


> I'd be a lot more inclined to throw up some sort of concrete block or metal building to put the furnace in and then insulate the heck out of it and the duct work to/from the house too.
> Still not the ideal setup though...the Hotblast should have been named the woodblast for the way they blast through a load of wood. Of course you are already familiar with that feature and really, it's not any worse, probably better than an OWB.
> Also agree with the above comments about the loss of the radiant heat, not insignificant on the HB.
> And then there is the issue of what happens to the furnace and the duct work during a power outage, if you can run the supply duct uphill the whole way then maybe that's not an issue.
> As far as safer, if the furnace is installed and run correctly I would say that it is perfectly safe in the house, if I didn't believe that I wouldn't heat my familys home with almost 100% wood heat


Okay thanks for the thought. The trailer I have is one of my old insulated job site tool trailers so heat loss is not a problem.


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## catriverrat (Sep 9, 2015)

Is there any other concerns about power outage other than fans not running to blow heat into house. I do have a generator I use to power 
part of the house in case of an outage.


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## begreen (Sep 9, 2015)

The furnace should be installed so that when the power goes out the heat can still convect upward through the connected plenum and ductwork to avoid overheating the ductwork and furnace. Harder to do as described. Can you be sure you'll be home during all power outages?


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## bodhran (Sep 9, 2015)

Get a new wife


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## hoverwheel (Sep 9, 2015)

I sense you're committed to this idea, so perhaps the advice is wasted.

FWIW I'd either install it indoors properly or consider an OWB in an outbuilding. Why do a hack on a system you'll be staking your life on?


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## catriverrat (Sep 9, 2015)

[quote="bodhran, post: 1967141, member: 13670optionet a new wife[/quote]
Twenty Two years and a 60k a year job not an option haha


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## brenndatomu (Sep 9, 2015)

bodhran said:


> Get a new wife


Ouch!  I think a new OWB would be much cheaper!


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## catriverrat (Sep 9, 2015)

hoverwheel said:


> I sense you're committed to this idea, so perhaps the advice is wasted.
> 
> FWIW I'd either install it indoors properly or consider an OWB in an outbuilding. Why do a hack on a system you'll be staking your life on?



I've burned wood for about 30 years only had one insendent that wasn't that bad.I just would like to continue and make what I have work. Thanks for your feedback


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## bholler (Sep 9, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> I've burned wood for about 30 years only had one insendent that wasn't that bad.I just would like to continue and make what I have work. Thanks for your feedback


Well if you have only had one incident in 30 years then you don't need to follow those pesky codes or instructions you will be fine.


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## begreen (Sep 9, 2015)

Good luck and be safe catriverrat. It sounds like there is nothing we can do but wish you well.


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## catriverrat (Sep 9, 2015)

bhollerI know post: 1967185 said:
			
		

> Well if you have only had one incident in 30 years then you don't need to follow those pesky codes or instructions you will be fine.


As a carpenter i know all about codes an inspections. IMO an outdoor wood heat source is much safer. I am interested in making a safe outdoor wood fired heat source. Just asking for ideas I am capable of constructing  a safe and economic outside wood burner.


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## begreen (Sep 9, 2015)

Proper installation, operation and maintenance are what assures safety. Almost none of us here would have wood heaters in our houses if there were problems of safety.


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## bholler (Sep 9, 2015)

2. Do not install this furnace in a mobile home or trailer.

Right from the hotblast manual pretty clear


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## brenndatomu (Sep 9, 2015)

Surprised this didn't get moved to the boiler room.
Anyways, if you are determined to do this, I'd at least find and read the owners/install manuals for some different outdoor hot air furnaces, see what requirements they have. 
Shelter (sold by Menards - made by Fire Chief) makes some and I know there are others



bholler said:


> 2. Do not install this furnace in a mobile home or trailer.
> 
> Right from the hotblast manual pretty clear


Sounds like sound advice to me


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## jotul? (Sep 9, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> I am capable of constructing a safe and economic outside wood burner.


…in a non permanent "old insulated job trailer". Come on man, what do you think to yourself when a homeowner says something like that to you? You DO know about codes and inspections if you're a pro. You know there is a reason for them, and you know that your rig wouldn't pass any of them. No reason to die in your sleep just to get another old house remodeled.


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## catriverrat (Sep 9, 2015)

bholler said:


> 2. Do not install this furnace in a mobile home or trailer.
> 
> Right from the hotblast manual pretty clear


Ok let's get away from the trailer idea. I think I have not conveyed my idea properly. Let's say I have a small metal building that I can move that I would like to mount a wood burning furance in for a heat source for my home.


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## begreen (Sep 9, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> a small metal building that I can move


 = trailer


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## brenndatomu (Sep 9, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> OK letsuote="bholler, post: 1967209, member: 32126"]2. Do not install this furnace in a mobile home or trailer.
> 
> Right from the hotblast manual pretty clear





> Ok let's get away from the trailer idea. I think I have not conveyed my idea properly. Let's say I have a small metal building that I can move that I would like to mount a wood burning furance in for a heat source for my home.



So you are saying the wheels are coming off...and sitting directly on the ground or some sort of foundation?


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## begreen (Sep 9, 2015)

Do you have to pass inspection for this installation? Is there insurance on the house that would cover this installation?


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## catriverrat (Sep 9, 2015)

begreen said:


> Do you have to pass inspection for this installation? Is there insurance on the house that would cover this installation?


What is standard for OBW distance from a ocupied structure.


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## catriverrat (Sep 9, 2015)

brenndatompercent : 1967225 said:
			
		

> So you are saying the wheels are coming off...and sitting directly on the ground or some sort of foundation?


I could make it a perment structure but would rather be able to move it in the off season.


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## brenndatomu (Sep 9, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> I could make it a perment structure but would rather be able to move it in the off season.



I've never been to Iowa but I would think y'all get at least as much wind as us in the winter...having a fire goin in a trailer that could blow over into my house would make me real nervous


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## jotul? (Sep 9, 2015)

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/im-building-a-homemade-boiler.145689/
Look this up catriverrat, a safe, home made OWB. Not saying that this is even possible but for a select few, but this is how far you need to be willing to go for safeties sake. Put the project on hold until funds are available.


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## catriverrat (Sep 9, 2015)

brenndatomu said:


> I've never been to Iowa but I would think y'all get at least as much wind as us in the winter...having a fire goin in a trailer that could blow over into my house would make me real nervous


Wow that would be a strong wind.If I decide to go with the trailer idea I was planning on making concrete block surround that would weigh approx. 2000#


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## bholler (Sep 9, 2015)

just get an owb if that is what you want


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## begreen (Sep 9, 2015)

Moving this thread to the boiler and furnace room.


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## mike van (Sep 10, 2015)

Heres a "things i've seen in life" viewpoint - Hot air doesn't travel distances anywhere near as good as hot water. Unless you put that unit right up against the side of your house, most of that 6 to 8 cords of dry wood you have will be lost heating the Iowa winter.   A true outside boiler with a heat exchanger  in your furnace is the way i'd go, it's just into September, you have time - Do it once, be done with it - Just my 2 cents............


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## maple1 (Sep 10, 2015)

The Hotblast wastes heat to start with, even when installed correctly in a house.

Put it outside and at least 3/4 of the heat your wood contains, will not make it to the house.

We're not saying this is a bad idea, just to be able to say it. It is a bad idea - straight up.

If you NEED to have the fire out of the house, then go with a boiler. Either a good OWB, or a good indoor one inside an outbuilding. But there is no reason to be scared of putting a wood burning furnace in a basement. That is what they are designed for, and how they are used by thousands - as long as installed correctly you will be fine.


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## nrcrash (Sep 10, 2015)

I agree with the majority of the comments stating it is a scary, inefficient and dangerous idea.   But......  If you do decided to go this route, I would love to see some pics of the setup when it is complete.


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## Highbeam (Sep 10, 2015)

Due to our local laws prohibiting all sorts of things I have considered a wood burner in a trailer. You'll see woodburners in trailers at home shows and state fairs for mobile marketing displays. There is no reason that the woodburner can't be in a trailer. The problem is the ducting if you choose to use a wood furnace. Heat loss from the ducting, flexibility in the ducting since the trailer will wiggle, proper slope and size of ducting means huge holes in your house, proximity of the trailer to the house, etc. For me, it was always about heating water in the trailer and then plumbing that water into the home/shop for heat.  

I would want the trailer a safe distance from the house so that if it burst into flames, no big deal. The trailer is not a "building" so the county doesn't regulate setbacks or size, the woodburner is not installed at the property so there are no permits or insurance issues. It's like a big portable heater. If a neighbor didn't like how close it was to the property line then you could relocate it or you could even seasonally relocate it. A trailer won't blow over but it will wiggle.


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## catriverrat (Sep 10, 2015)

I'muote="Highbeam, post: 1967369, member: 1382"]Due to our local laws prohibiting all sorts of things I have considered a wood burner in a trailer. You'll see woodburners in trailers at home shows and state fairs for mobile marketing displays. There is no reason that the woodburner can't be in a trailer. The problem is the ducting if you choose to use a wood furnace. Heat loss from the ducting, flexibility in the ducting since the trailer will wiggle, proper slope and size of ducting means huge holes in your house, proximity of the trailer to the house, etc. For me, it was always about heating water in the trailer and then plumbing that water into the home/shop for heat. 

I would want the trailer a safe distance from the house so that if it burst into flames, no big deal. The trailer is not a "building" so the county doesn't regulate setbacks or size, the woodburner is not installed at the property so there are no permits or insurance issues. It's like a big portable heater. If a neighbor didn't like how close it was to the property line then you could relocate it or you could even seasonally relocate it. A trailer won't blow over but it will wiggle.[/quote]
I'm sure I could make it work but if I would need an extra inline blower to get hot air into the house combined with heat loss. Still trying to sort that out.


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## catriverrat (Sep 10, 2015)

I'll see a couple of my havc friends tonite at my grandsons track meet maybe they can give me an air flow formula to see how how I move the heated air. How much insulation etc.


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## maple1 (Sep 10, 2015)

*I'm sure I could make it work but if I would need an extra inline blower to get hot air into the house combined with heat loss.*

You're behind an 8 ball to begin with, with the furnace you have. It is inefficient to start with, sending a lot of the heat from the wood it eats up the chimney to outdoors. I.e., poor heat exchange to the ductwork. The only thing that moving more air through it will do, is make the air coming out cooler.

At least with this furnace in the house, you would keep some of that heat loss in the house - the heat that also radiates off it. If it's outdoors, you will lose that too.

You are getting sound advice from everyone here.


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## catriverrat (Sep 10, 2015)

maple1 said:


> *I'm sure I could make it work but if I would need an extra inline blower to get hot air into the house combined with heat loss.*
> 
> You're behind an 8 ball to begin with, with the furnace you have. It is inefficient to start with, sending a lot of the heat from the wood it eats up the chimney to outdoors. I.e., poor heat exchange to the ductwork. The only thing that moving more air through it will do, is make the air coming out cooler.
> 
> ...


Putting it in the house is not a option. I understand that the stove that I have is not the best but for what it cost me (free) I think I can make it work. Most of the heat loss will remain in the trailer I would think. Yes a boiler would be great but I believe it would take to long to pay for itself. I only really need to heat the the first floor of the house anyway. I was just wondering if anyone has tried this before.


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## bholler (Sep 10, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> the woodburner is not installed at the property so there are no permits or insurance issues.


The problem with that is that it is installed on the property.  When you connect it to the house with those bucts it is installed in the house.  What do you think would happen if the trailer did catch fire?  Don't you think that the smoke and fumes would get sent into the house through that duct work?  You may not burn your house down but you could still be killed by the smoke or fumes.


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## brenndatomu (Sep 10, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> I was just wondering if anyone has tried this before.


I'm sure it has, but in that part of the country I bet they ain't got good internets...


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## catriverrat (Sep 10, 2015)

bholler said:


> The problem with that is that it is installed on the property.  When you connect it to the house with those bucts it is installed in the house.  What do you think would happen if the trailer did catch fire?  Don't you think that the smoke and fumes would get sent into the house through that duct work?  You may not burn your house down but you could still be killed by the smoke or fumes.


If the trailer did caught fire i guess can't see how it could because its all metal but if it did I think with our smoke detectors we would be OK.
Now say your furnace or chimney had an issue would you not be in some danger also.


brenndatomu said:


> I'm sure it has, but in that part of the country I bet they ain't got good internets...


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## bholler (Sep 10, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> f the trailer did caught fire i guess can't see how it could because its all metal


so the insulation you have been talking about is metal also?   



catriverrat said:


> Now say your furnace or chimney had an issue would you not be in some danger also.


Yes but in the house it is not installed in a very small space with a short chimney making it prone to overheating.  And it can be installed to manufacturers specs which clearly prohibit it from being installed in a trailer.  If you decide to do it that is up to you but don't come here looking for our input and then get bothered when we tell you it is not a good idea and is not allowed by the manufacturer.


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## DoubleB (Sep 10, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> Most of the heat loss will remain in the trailer I would think.



Yep.  Which means it's doing nothing to heat your house and therefore wasted.


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## catriverrat (Sep 10, 2015)

[quoI woulde="DoubleB, post: 1967553, member: 34286"]Yep.  Which means it's doing nothing to heat your house and therefore wasted.[/quote]
IMO i would a least I would get 60% of heat to the house. We have a lot of free wood here in Iowa.


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## bholler (Sep 10, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> i would a least I would get 60% of heat to the house.


not even close to 60%


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## catriverrat (Sep 10, 2015)

estimationpost: 1967563 said:
			
		

> not even close to 60%


In your estimation what would the temperature of the air leaving the furnace.


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## bholler (Sep 10, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> In your estimation what would the temperature of the air leaving the furnace.



no idea i have never burnt one.  But i can tell you that even with a perfect setup you wont get 60% efficiency with that furnace.  Yours i would guess at best would run at 25 to 30%


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## catriverrat (Sep 10, 2015)

OK uote="bholler, post: 1967567, member: 32126"]no idea i have never burnt one.  But i can tell you that even with a perfect setup you wont get 60% efficiency with that furnace.  Yours i would guess at best would run at 25 to 30%[/quote]
Ok thanks maybe someone else on this forum more knowledgeable about wood burning furnaces might know. Thanks again for your time.


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## catriverrat (Sep 10, 2015)

[quoI guesseI missed"brenndatomu, post: 1967544, member: 28195"]I'm sure it has, but in that part of the country I bet they ain't got good internets...[/quote]
Wow I guess i missed this post. Did your kid post this for you. LOL


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## jotul? (Sep 10, 2015)

How much free wood? Someone will have to help me with the BTU tables but let's have an example: Before I moved to my current house last summer, I was in a 1953 built shotgun house with several additions. I ran a Cozeburn 250 OWB for eight years at that house. The boiler was 97.5 feet from the house and had the heat exchanger in the plenum of the oil furnace in the basement; traditional forced air setup. I used the good underground 1" pex that has the foam insulation in the casing, and I rented a commercial trenching machine to install those lines so that they would be below the frost line; 36" deep. That house was 1600 sq. ft., and had been as heavily insulated as possible during remods done by me and (when I could afford it) contractors, not including the unfinished basement that was used for laundry/storage and only heated by one duct off the plenum. That boiler used 10 to 12 TONS of bituminous coal, AND 4 to 6 cords of wood each and every heating season from the first installed, to the '13 season, which was our last there. Like I said, someone will have to help with the BTU tables, but if that boiler was even 60% efficient, which is what you hope your rig to be, you must be a mountain of a man to process all that in wood alone. Especially if you haven't yet gotten started.


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## catriverrat (Sep 10, 2015)

Haven'te="jotul?, post: 1967583, member: 35922"]How much free wood? Someone will have to help me with the BTU tables but let's have an example: Before I moved to my current house last summer, I was in a 1953 built shotgun house with several additions. I ran a Cozeburn 250 OWB for eight years at that house. The boiler was 97.5 feet from the house and had the heat exchanger in the plenum of the oil furnace in the basement; traditional forced air setup. I used the good underground 1" pex that has the foam insulation in the casing, and I rented a commercial trenching machine to install those lines so that they would be below the frost line; 36" deep. That house was 1600 sq. ft., and had been as heavily insulated as possible during remods done by me and (when I could afford it) contractors, not including the unfinished basement that was used for laundry/storage and only heated by one duct off the plenum. That boiler used 10 to 12 TONS of bituminous coal, AND 4 to 6 cords of wood each and every heating season from the first installed, to the '13 season, which was our last there. Like I said, someone will have to help with the BTU tables, but if that boiler was even 60% efficient, which is what you hope your rig to be, you must be a mountain of a man to process all that in wood alone. Especially if you haven't yet gotten started.[/quote]
Haven't gotten started I stated in an earlier post I have 8 cords ready to burn ananother 16 to 20 cords cut and ready to split at my farm.


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## bholler (Sep 10, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> Ok thanks maybe someone else on this forum more knowledgeable about wood burning furnaces might know. Thanks again for your time.


the outlet temp on a hot air furnace will vary greatly depending on how it is operated and the install.  So no none of us can give you that info.  But you are seriously going to question my credentials to advise of safe and efficient wood burner installs?   I am licensed and certified to do this work and have been doing it for many years.  I have also fixed many bad installs done by guys that have been doing it that way for 30 years.


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## catriverrat (Sep 10, 2015)

My understanding is a conventional lp fueled furnace puts out around 140 to 160 degrees and can handle a 40' duct without a booster. I didn't mean to ruffly your feathers but I'm sure I can do that with my proposed setup.


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## bholler (Sep 10, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> My understanding is a conventional lp fueled furnace puts out around 140 to 160 degrees and can handle a 40' duct without a booster. I didn't mean to ruffly your feathers but I'm sure I can do that with my proposed setup.


At some points in the burn cycle yes i am sure you can.  But what temp will it be by the time it reaches the house?  And how much wood will it take to get it there.  That is where the efficiency comes in


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## brenndatomu (Sep 10, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> [quoI guesseI missed"brenndatomu, post: 1967544, member: 28195"]I'm sure it has, but in that part of the country I bet they ain't got good internets...


Wow I guess i missed this post. Did your kid post this for you. LOL[/quote]
Nah, 'twas I. Obviously, with a "like" to "post" ratio of ~25%, my brand of humor goes unappreciated quite a bit around here 
Just thought this thread needed un-intensified a skosh


brenndatomu said:


> I'm sure it has, but in that part of the country I bet they ain't got good internets...


Here, I'll decode this for y'all...what I was saying was, yes, this probably has been done...once upon a time...somewhere...back in the hills...but, _that_ person probably isn't postin on Hearth.com


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## maple1 (Sep 10, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> OK uote="bholler, post: 1967567, member: 32126"]no idea i have never burnt one.  But i can tell you that even with a perfect setup you wont get 60% efficiency with that furnace.  Yours i would guess at best would run at 25 to 30%


Ok thanks maybe someone else on this forum more knowledgeable about wood burning furnaces might know. Thanks again for your time.[/quote]

You are getting sound advice from people who are way more knowledgable than yourself about wood burning furnaces. Isn't that what you came here for? Then you insult them.

I'm out - good luck.


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## catriverrat (Sep 10, 2015)

maple1 said:


> Ok thanks maybe someone else on this forum more knowledgeable about wood burning furnaces might know. Thanks again for your time.



You are getting sound advice from people who are way more knowledgable than yourself about wood burning furnaces. Isn't that what you came here for? Then you insult them.

I'm out - good luck.[/quote]
I don't think I insulted anyone just posted an idea looking for input. As it is it seems that you are the one getting uptight maybe everything in this world is not cut an dried ?


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## DoubleB (Sep 10, 2015)

Remind me again why you have ruled out a basement install?  I think it was your wife said "no"? 

I hear ya, I understand how that works.  However, I have to ask if you actually explained to her what it will look like to have a rusty trailer permanently parked next to the house with a smokestack belching around your bedroom window and big ducts with colorful insulation extending from said trailer through the kitchen window and blowing out the candles of your evening dinner with lukewarm air?

If you don't think the technical advice people have given applies to you, that's your choice.  But most of us here would also have a domestic problem on our hands that would make us remove this "installation" even in the unlikely event that it was functionally acceptable.  Perhaps consider what you'll do when your wife says you have to remove it because it looks awful.


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## jotul? (Sep 10, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> Haven't gotten started I stated in an earlier post I have 8 cords ready to burn ananother 16 to 20 cords cut and ready to split at my farm.


Do you have nothing but seasoned Osage Orange for your fuel? Because if you do you will only need 29.04 tons of it to equal the BTU's in 12 tons of coal. Thats 58,080 lbs. of Osage Orange. At 4845 lbs. per cord, you need 11.9 cords. Thats to match the coal tonnage, you need another 6 cords to match the wood tonnage. Thats 17.9 cords. That is if our houses have the same heat load and if our furnaces have the same efficiency. So you should be fine. Wait? It's not seasoned Osage Orange? It's seasoned Red Oak? Well, you only need about 32 tons of Red Oak to meet the BTU requirements of our equal houses. Thats only 18 cords of Red Oak! Oh, forgot the wood BTU's. Now you need 24 cords. Ouch. Hope that 60% efficiency was listed as a minimum by UL labs. Oh… sorry. What do you mean you don't have 2 year seasoned Red Oak? You have no year seasoned, mixed hardwood that is still 25% water by weight? To underline that: THAT'S ONE QUARTER WATER. 28 cords? 30 cords? All that is hoping for 60% efficiency. What about 50%? 35 cords? Stop wasting everyone's time. I'm with Maple1 - out.


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## maple1 (Sep 10, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> You are getting sound advice from people who are way more knowledgable than yourself about wood burning furnaces. Isn't that what you came here for? Then you insult them.
> 
> I'm out - good luck.


I don't think I insulted anyone just posted an idea looking for input. As it is it seems that you are the one getting uptight maybe everything in this world is not cut an dried ?[/quote]

No uptite here - that good luck was a sincere one.


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## DoubleB (Sep 10, 2015)

brenndatomu said:


> Obviously, with a "like" to "post" ratio of ~25%, my brand of humor goes unappreciated quite a bit around here



Oh man, not a guilt trip!  I gave you a "like" just to bump you up to 25.23%.    We love your humor, you just dilute it too much with technical prowess.


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## catriverrat (Sep 10, 2015)

jotul? said:


> Do you have nothing but seasoned Osage Orange for your fuel? Because if you do you will only need 29.04 tons of it to equal the BTU's in 12 tons of coal. Thats 58,080 lbs. of Osa mmseasoned Red Oak? Well, you only need about 32 tons of Red Oak to meet the BTU requirements of our equal houses. Thats only 18 cords of Red Oak! Oh, forgot the wood BTU's. Now you need 24 cords. Ouch. Hope that 60% effic





DoubleB said:


> Oh man, not a guilt trip!  I gave you a "like" just to bump you up to 25.23%.    We love your humor, you just dilute it too much with technical prowess.


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## catriverrat (Sep 10, 2015)

OK let's watch football go PIT


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## brenndatomu (Sep 10, 2015)

bholler said:


> But what temp will it be by the time it reaches the house?


That, IMO is gonna be your ultimate problem with this project. Air not warm enough by the time it reaches Mrs Cat.
It is a real issue with warm air wood furnaces, I've seen indoor installs that didn't work out just because the duct runs were too long or ran through a "unconditioned" space. I would hazard a guess that you have a unfinished basement? Gonna be a real sum beach getting warm air to the rooms running through cold ducts. You would think they would warm up eventually and then transfer heat to the house...doesn't seem to work that way. But when you have the furnace in the basement it heats things up enough just from radiant heat to help offset the duct losses...and it is much closer, so that helps a lot too. Oh, and don't forget, warm air rises, so most indoor installs have warm air flowing to some degree all the time.
The other issue with long ducts is cold air purge. When the blower kicks on you get a blast of cold air...I would think this is even more of an issue in a outdoor set up like this...MC (Mrs Cat) prolly not gonna like CAB (Cold Air Blast) which, with the cyclical nature of a blower on a wood furnace could be a deal breaker even if you get past the other hurdles

Oh and just a tip @catriverrat ...when you reply to somebody just hit the reply button, no need to also highlight and quote them unless you want to just reply to part of their comment...then just highlight and hit the popup "quote" button in that case...the double quotes were makin me cross eyed (er) 


jotul? said:


> That boiler used 10 to 12 TONS of bituminous coal, AND 4 to 6 cords of wood each and every heating season from the first installed





jotul? said:


> Like I said, someone will have to help with the BTU tables


 that's BBTUs (buttloads BTUs)


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## hoverwheel (Sep 11, 2015)

Would it be improper to ask for PICS when it's done? Purely for scientifical curiosity, of course.


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## PassionForFire&Water (Sep 12, 2015)

I just wasted 20 minutes reading this post
Quite entertaining.
And yes, we love pictures!


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## JP11 (Sep 14, 2015)

I don't know.. when EVERYONE keeps telling me that something is a dumb freaking idea.... it makes me think.

Has there been a SINGLE person posting that this idea is even remotely smart, efficient, safe?

JP


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## hoverwheel (Sep 14, 2015)

JP11 said:


> I don't know.. when EVERYONE keeps telling me that something is a dumb freaking idea.... it makes me think.
> 
> Has there been a SINGLE person posting that this idea is even remotely smart, efficient, safe?
> 
> JP


Absolutely!

The OP.


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## catriverrat (Sep 15, 2015)

I have decied to install a stove in the house.Thanks for the info


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## brenndatomu (Sep 15, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> I have decied to install a stove in the house.Thanks for the info


Ding Ding Ding, Winner! Winner!


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## bholler (Sep 15, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> I have decied to install a stove in the house.Thanks for the info


can we ask why you changed your mind?


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## catriverrat (Sep 15, 2015)

Just decided it would be easier to install one inside. Now were are looking at new wood stoves with glass doors. I guess_----
For the chimney I'm going with double wall going though an addition roof up side of main house up 12' though the eave another 3' all chased I'll still be below peak of main house 4' but an 20' away from it. Is inside clearance for the pipe to chimney 18" or 20"


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## bholler (Sep 15, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> Just decided it would be easier to install one inside. Now were are looking at new wood stoves with glass doors. I guess_----
> For the chimney I'm going with double wall going though an addition roof up side of main house up 12' though the eave another 3' all chased I'll still be below peak of main house 4' but an 20' away from it. Is inside clearance for the pipe to chimney 18" or 20"


Good choice sounds like a good plan


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## Babaganoosh (Sep 15, 2015)

That sucks, I realllllly couldn't wait to see his trailer stove pics.


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## BoilerBob (Sep 17, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> I'll still be below peak of main house 4' but an 20' away from it.


???? Better check with the pros on this.
I'm glad you picked a better option for heating. Good on you, keep everyone safe.


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## leon (Sep 19, 2015)

If you do it that way you will have poor
draft forever as the chimney MUST be
at least three feet above the tallest
obstruction to obtain adequate draft

Have you looked at a coal stoker or wood pellet stove?
You can purchase them as direct vent units.

Your going to spend at least $40 a foot on triple wall stove
pipe versus a direct vent coal stoker stove or direct vent
wood pellet stove with a shorter flue pipe through a wall.


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## catriverrat (Sep 19, 2015)

What I read was 2' for every 10' below the peak is fine. But I could more height if I need to. Got a friend that will give me her corn / pellet stove but I don't think it puts off enough heat. Wood is free corn / pellets are not.


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## bholler (Sep 20, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> What I read was 2' for every 10' below the peak is fine.


No it is 2' above anything with in 10' or 3' above the roof where the chimney exits the roof nothing to do with the peak nessecarily


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## catriverrat (Sep 20, 2015)

Sorry I should of said ten foot away from the peak. I just measured again and I will be fine. I won't get it finished this weekend anyway.


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## bholler (Sep 20, 2015)

catriverrat said:


> Sorry I should of said ten foot away from the peak. I just measured again and I will be fine. I won't get it finished this weekend anyway.


no problem just wanted to make sure you had it right


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## leon (Sep 22, 2015)

What you do not know is how much or how little draft a corn or peller burner will require.

You may just be fine with a dryer vent reversed into the area where the
pellet stove would be located to let in enough combustion air.

Once a pellet stove is located where you want it, you have it properly adjusted for the feed rate and
the blower shutter opening properly adjusted using a Dwyer vacuum gauge in the flue pipe or the 
access door to the stoker.


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