# The great splitting maul debate



## Rob_Red (May 12, 2021)

What do you all use for a manual splitting tool? I'd like something that isn't a disposable item. I have a large red oak coming down that is about 3 feet in diameter (dang gypsy moths) 

I assume I will need to use a wedge for some of the big gnarly stuff. What about the rest? Do you prefer a lighter splitting axe? Or a big daddy maul? 

I only will be splitting 2 cords a year max so I don't want to go all in on a powered unit YET.

I realize a lot of this is personal preference, but experience is appreciated!


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## begreen (May 12, 2021)

For big stuff I have an 8# maul and several good wedges, and a power splitter.


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## EbS-P (May 12, 2021)

If it’s pretty straight the fiskars x27 is a good balance between weight and power.  I did a 34” live  red oak butt with it.  That said I have several axes. 8 pound fiskars maul and a 4.5 pound Kelly works is what I started with. That did everything  but the kindling for maybe 4-5 cords.   You probably will want or need a maul, but  as pretty fit almost forty year old I can really only work with it effectively for 20-30 minutes in really hard splitting wood.  It’s a workout. So I break up all the rounds into big chunks and then go after it with a lighter axe.  60-80 year old yard grown yellow pines are tough.  Even the 8# maul will bounce off and I can only work around the edges of it before I can split it into chunks. 
I don’t use wedges.  I have a good strong swing and if it won’t split I toss it aside and will get to it next time the chainsaw is out.   
It would be nice to  have a nice sharp maul.
Something around 4 pounds and 36” and then a dissector that’s around 3 pounds on a 28-32” handle that you could swing accurately even if you are a bit tired. But one tool to do it all the x27 is hard to beat. 

Unsolicited advice...I can’t tell you how much I like my pulp hook for moving and stacking firewood. I got some tendinitis in my wrist and elbow just from gripping the split wood to move and stack after about 2 cords in 4 weeks. The ergonomics of the pulp hook are better than a pickaroon IMO.
Evan
*edited auto corrects.


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## David.Ervin (May 12, 2021)

I'll second the Fiskars x27 in combination with a 6# "beat it to death" maul.  Odds are good you'll be able to handle anything that's not a super twisted root flare or crotch piece with just those two things.


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## Rob_Red (May 12, 2021)

How's the steel on the Fiskars? Does the edge roll over easily?


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## Mutineer (May 12, 2021)

64 year old 4-5 cord/year burner here and I only use my old maul for huge rounds back in the woods in order to carry out manageable pieces. Everything else goes through the hydro spltter.


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## gthomas785 (May 12, 2021)

I just bought myself a 6lb maul and I don't think I'm ever going back to axe splitting.
I do also have a lightweight electric-hydraulic splitter that I use for the stringy and twisty stuff, or if I'm just feeling weak on a particular day. But it's slow compared to the maul.


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## Rob_Red (May 12, 2021)

I'm not opposed to hydo splitter but its just not in the cards this year.


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## EbS-P (May 12, 2021)

Rob_Red said:


> How's the steel on the Fiskars? Does the edge roll over easily?


Pretty good.  Can't say I've ever rolled the edge but they all have a few nicks from rocks. This is the worst shape they have been in as I just finished splitting  some pine in the driveway.  I just take my flats file to them and smooth up the edges sharp enough..... to split.


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## EbS-P (May 12, 2021)

Rob_Red said:


> I'm not opposed to hydo splitter but its just not in the cards this year.


My personal opinion is that 2 cords a year is not a huge amount to split IF it’s splittable by hand.  Splitting 1/3 cord a weekend and stacking it the next  is pretty doable.  I like an appliance dolly to move the big rounds and logs around.  No need to store or maintain a splitter.


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## Corey (May 12, 2021)

The lightest tool that will reliably split the wood you have in your area is generally your best bet.  In my area, it is knotty elm and twisted hedge, so the lightest tool is generally a 30 ton hydraulic splitter.  With your oak, assuming relatively straight grain, a maul toward the lighter end of the spectrum might work if you use it right.  No matter how big the round, there is always a spot 5-6" from the edge... hit it there and start slabbing chunks off.   If you go for the center of a 3 ft diameter round, you might need multiple mauls and wedges to get a split started.


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## SpaceBus (May 12, 2021)

EbS-P said:


> Pretty good.  Can't say I've ever rolled the edge but they all have a few nicks from rocks. This is the worst shape they have been in as I just finished splitting  some pine in the driveway.  I just take my flats file to them and smooth up the edges sharp enough..... to split.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I stick with a fine file for most of my axes. For my single edge carving hatchet, which I use for kindling, I use a diamond stone.


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## Lakeside (May 12, 2021)

I am in the Fiskers camp.    Tip to use the shingle method , with the round held together with a bungee too.


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## Nealm66 (May 12, 2021)

I prefer a light maul. I recently purchased (on a whim) a stihl splitting maul. It looks beastly and well built but it actually feels slightly out of balance on a swing and I miss my shots sometimes. Not by much, maybe 1/2 inch? But that makes a big difference. Still, it does look really cool ha ha!


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## Solarguy3500 (May 12, 2021)

If a $200 axe is in your budget, the Gransfors Bruk Large Splitting Axe is an awesome tool. I justified it by saying that I wasn't going to spend $1,000 - $2,000 on a splitter, so I was going to spend a little more and get a really good axe.


I got some para cord and wrapped the handle to give myself a little better grip and a little extra protection for the handle in case I miss a swing and hit the handle on a round of wood.


I also got a Fiskars 8 lb maul for Christmas and I barely use it. I can swing the axe all day long and it's a good workout but doesn't kill me. It's just no fun swinging that heavy maul and wearing myself out quickly, plus my aim suffers with the heavy maul.

In short, splitting with the axe is actually enjoyable. Using the maul is too much like work


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## Sawset (May 12, 2021)

An 8lb mall from farmfleet, and a couple felling wedges from baileys have split a lot of wood here. Renting a splitter for 2-1/2 cord/4hrs, plus hand splitting a couple cords usually made enough for the year. A couple of the felling wedges have lasted a decade, have been beat to a pulp, but still look fairly new. 10" version.









						WoodlandPRO Hi-Vis Green Tree Falling Wedges
					

Our best selling wedges. WoodlandPro wedges are made from high impact ABS plastic and have a textured surface to keep from slipping. We buy these wedges in huge quantities direct from the injection moulding factory, so we can offer them at incredible prices. Fluorescent green color will help you...




					www.baileysonline.com


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## Highbeam (May 12, 2021)

Rent a splitter each year until you can buy one. Don’t fight with wedges, take your saw and cut the round sideways to get it small enough to move. I even use my splitter for kindling!


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## Simonkenton (May 13, 2021)

I have the 8 pound Fiskars maul and that is a great maul.   I had been using the classic Monster Maul for decades.   The Fiskars is so good,  it put the Monster Maul on the bench.
For really tough wood I have several splitting wedges,  and a 9 pound sledge hammer.


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## kennyp2339 (May 14, 2021)

I got rid of the maul years ago, switched over to splitting axes and the heaviest of the heavy round get a purchase point started with the chainsaw then steel wedges and a sledge hammer for the rest of the way, just quartering up pieces  for the splitter so I dont bust out my back again.


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## MongoMongoson (May 14, 2021)

Rob_Red said:


> How's the steel on the Fiskars? Does the edge roll over easily?



I have an X25 that I have been using for 8 or 9 years.   The edge does not roll.  It is much more likely to chip than roll.  I keep it pretty sharp, and have found the lighter maul/axe to be a game changer.   At my height, I think an X27 would be better but I got the X25 as a gift, so I'm not complaining.  

Prior to using the X25 I used a Council 8-lb maul.   What a difference the Fiskars makes.   As others have stated, the lighter tool let you work longer and I think it actually splits better than the heavier maul.  If the light splitter doesn't get it done, I have wedges and sledges.   

I have split about 4 cords of hickory, oak, and ash with the X25 and wedges this spring.   I have a 25 ton splitter in the garage, and I will drag it out to finish off some really nasty ones that are more trouble than they are worth with the hand tools.


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## walhondingnashua (May 14, 2021)

I just bought a gas splitter BUT...

For the last 5 years I have split by hand.  Have a basic 6lb maul and torpedo wedge for harder stuff and a double bit axe when I could use it.  Bought a Fiskers x27 and it is pretty impressive.  Maybe keep a few options within hand for whatever you get into.

Most important thing to me other than what you split with is what you split on.  Set yourself up a good, solid splitting block and that makes all the difference.


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## Simonkenton (May 14, 2021)

Yes,  it is important to have a good chopping block.  I have a 22 inch diameter locust chopping block.  It is pretty beat up,  I have used it for 2 years and it has at least one more good year in it.


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## David.Ervin (May 14, 2021)

Rob_Red said:


> How's the steel on the Fiskars? Does the edge roll over easily?



Hard enough.  Mine has a couple nicks from hitting a rock or something on an overstrike, but it's more than serviceable.  They advertise that the head comes with some sort of anti-stick coating on it, but my experience is that it wears off almost immediately and doesn't seem to matter.


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## WoodBurnerInWI (May 14, 2021)

I own 3 splitting axes/mauls:

The GB large splitting
Fiskars X-25
Fiskars splitting maul 

I also own a 27t splitter since I split anywhere from 10 to 15 cords of wood every year. 

Overall, I found myself using the Fiskars more and more than the GB. Not because I think the GB can't do the job, it works great! But rather it's such a nice looking ax I just don't want to use it lol!! Also most all of my logs come from tree services and not too surprisingly they are every size imaginable with many "objects" embedded in them to be wary of (metal, rocks, etc). I didn't want to risk ruining the GB axe if I hit something with it that wasn't wood so that's mainly how I came to using the Fiskars products as my "daily" use axe. 

The Fiskars have held up great thus far and have certainly hit plenty of crap within the wood as well as dirt and rocks and they are fine. The edges on both get filed every once and awhile to maintain some type of edge on them and haven't had any issues with rust on the metal either.


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## Caw (May 14, 2021)

I've split about 10 cords of hardwood by hand this year with this combo: 

8# Fiskars Maul
8# Sledge 
Fiskars X27

I use the maul as a wedge on the giant rounds and just pound it with the sledge. The x27 does 95% of the work though, I only use the maul/sledge when necessary. My wife who is 5'4 and 120 lbs actually prefers the maul...go figure! They have held up nicely even hitting all sorts of hidden metal, rocks, and driveway along the way. I just touch up the edge on the x27 with my chainsaw file if it gets gnarly. 

The Gransfor's looks like a really nice tool I'd love to try one out. Hard to justify the cost though when I love my x27 for 1/4 the price. If I ever splurge on a new axe it'll be that one or something custom. Next purchase is going to be a splitter I'm going to split (lol) with my father and brother in law. No sense in each buying our own we are all local and can share!


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## SpaceBus (May 15, 2021)

Caw said:


> I've split about 10 cords of hardwood by hand this year with this combo:
> 
> 8# Fiskars Maul
> 8# Sledge
> ...



Be careful pounding on hammers with other hammers (a maul is a hammer with a sharp side). If you do, wear eye protection, pieces of metal are likely to go flying. Wedges are ok to beat on because they will deform and are softer than the hammer. Your Fiskars maul is very hard steel and you could cause some significant damage beating on it with a sledge.


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## Caw (May 15, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> Be careful pounding on hammers with other hammers (a maul is a hammer with a sharp side). If you do, wear eye protection, pieces of metal are likely to go flying. Wedges are ok to beat on because they will deform and are softer than the hammer. Your Fiskars maul is very hard steel and you could cause some significant damage beating on it with a sledge.



The Fiskars maul is designed to be struck with other tools. It says so right on their website and the Amazon listing has a picture of it too. The hammer side is a much softer alloy that deforms and takes the beating well. 

I think we can all agree that eye protection is always a good idea when splitting though. You never know when a piece of wood or tool is going to go flying with such big forces at play.


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## stoveliker (May 15, 2021)

Well, if one whacks the maul holding the sledge like that, indeed nothing will come flying off...


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## Caw (May 15, 2021)

I've hit the spring time I'm sick of firewood wall. The thought of splitting s few cords right now makes my back start to tighten lol. I'll be over it soon though and back into scrounge mode because...you know....I'm an addict.


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## SpaceBus (May 15, 2021)

Caw said:


> The Fiskars maul is designed to be struck with other tools. It says so right on their website and the Amazon listing has a picture of it too. The hammer side is a much softer alloy that deforms and takes the beating well.
> 
> I think we can all agree that eye protection is always a good idea when splitting though. You never know when a piece of wood or tool is going to go flying with such big forces at play.
> 
> ...


I wish I had known that before, I have an 8lb isocore!


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## hickoryhoarder (May 15, 2021)

For most splitting I can't imagine using an axe instead of a maul.  I use a wedge only for crooked grain or low on the tree.  

My maul says 8 on it, with a wooden handle.  Can't see any brand.  $27 ten years ago.   The weight of the head alone does a lot of the splitting.  I'm not even 50% as strong as I was 40 years ago, but it is not hard to swing.


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## Caw (May 15, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> I wish I had known that before, I have an 8lb isocore!



I accept tips for my tips


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## dylanboro (May 15, 2021)

I use a USA made 8 lb. splitting maul and wedge from 1989 I got from craigslist for $25. Studies show splitting wood by hand raises testosterone levels and eliminates noodle arms.


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## dylanboro (May 15, 2021)

Solarguy3500 said:


> If a $200 axe is in your budget, the Gransfors Bruk Large Splitting Axe is an awesome tool. I justified it by saying that I wasn't going to spend $1,000 - $2,000 on a splitter, so I was going to spend a little more and get a really good axe.
> View attachment 278716
> 
> I got some para cord and wrapped the handle to give myself a little better grip and a little extra protection for the handle in case I miss a swing and hit the handle on a round of wood.
> ...


I can't imagine paying $200 for something I bury in the dirty and use to scare my neighbors.


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## SpaceBus (May 16, 2021)

dylanboro said:


> I can't imagine paying $200 for something I bury in the dirty and use to scare my neighbors.


Why do you put it in the dirt?


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## BCC_Burner (May 16, 2021)

If I can't split it with my X27, then it goes in the pile for the hydraulic splitter.  

I would like to try a Fiskars maul, but the ones I've tried previously has been disappointing in terms of performance and have left me feeling like I got hit by a bus after a few hours of swinging them.


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## EbS-P (May 16, 2021)

Stringing the back of the x27 splitting axe will void its warranty (I think).


BCC_Burner said:


> If I can't split it with my X27, then it goes in the pile for the hydraulic splitter.
> 
> I would like to try a Fiskars maul, but the ones I've tried previously has been disappointing in terms of performance and have left me feeling like I got hit by a bus after a few hours of swinging them.


I think a six pound version (maybe even on a shorter handle$ of the fiskars maul would be nice.


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## Labfriend (May 16, 2021)

i use my Fiskars maul and ax.  I have some wedges I have had for years for real tough knots.  My best wedge is is the head of a un unbreakable maul that I broke the handle of several years back.


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## Simonkenton (May 18, 2021)

Thanks for that tip CAW on the Fiskars.   I have been trying to get my brother to quit using his Fiskars as a splitting wedge but he,  as usual, ignores everything I say.    Now,  I see that he was right all along.


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## CatfishHunter (May 19, 2021)

For goodness sakes, don't let him know that he was right!


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## clancey (May 19, 2021)

It might go to his head...lol clancey


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## CatfishHunter (May 19, 2021)

I loved a no-name 6lb maul that I used for over a decade, until the no-break fiberglass handle broke. I changed to an 8lb Fiskars maul last year, which works well, but my noodle arms struggle with the control a bit more. I think that I'll find myself a 6lb Fiskars (maybe the 27X) and be happy again.


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## CreosoteCowboy (May 21, 2021)

I've used most of the common options: Monster Maul, hardware store special with a fiberglass handle, Fiskers X25, Fiskers X27, the Gransfors Bruk Maul, and a Hults Bruk Bjork splitting axe.

The Fiskers options are head and shoulders better than anything else on the market in their price range.  If you don't mind tools with plastic handles, they're probably all you really need.

Early last spring I picked up a Gransfors Bruk maul, and it's the finest splitter I've ever used.











The only real shortcoming is that it's heavy.  I'd like to try the GB Large Splitting Axe that @Solarguy3500 is using on smaller pieces.

If I didn't already have the GB maul, I'd be interested in trying the Husqvarna maul that's made by Hults Bruk.


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## SpaceBus (May 21, 2021)

I really like my GB carving hatchet. Bought it for making wood shingles the old way, but it does an awesome job splitting kindling down to very small sizes for easy fire lighting. Easy to sharpen and holds an edge well.


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## Solarguy3500 (May 21, 2021)

CreosoteCowboy said:


> I've used most of the common options: Monster Maul, hardware store special with a fiberglass handle, Fiskers X25, Fiskers X27, the Gransfors Bruk Maul, and a Hults Bruk Bjork splitting axe.
> 
> The Fiskers options are head and shoulders better than anything else on the market in their price range.  If you don't mind tools with plastic handles, they're probably all you really need.
> 
> ...



I should have clarified better in my original post. I'm actually using the GB Large Splitting Axe on all my wood, even the bigger stuff that I would have used a maul on previously. It's that good. You just have to start from the edges and work your way in, rather than going for the center on your first swing.









My friend has the GB maul, and before I bought the axe I went over to his house and split  a bunch of his wood using the maul to try it out. I almost bought the maul because GB says you can use the back of it to strike a wedge, but you can't do that with the axe. In the end, I went with the axe because I figured most of what I'd be splitting wouldn't need a wedge, and for the few pieces that do I have a sledge I can pound wedges with.


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## CreosoteCowboy (May 21, 2021)

Solarguy3500 said:


> My friend has the GB maul, and before I bought the axe I went over to his house and split  a bunch of his wood using the maul to try it out. I almost bought the maul because GB says you can use the back of it to strike a wedge, but you can't do that with the axe. In the end, I went with the axe because I figured most of what I'd be splitting wouldn't need a wedge, and for the few pieces that do I have a sledge I can pound wedges with.



Good info on the splitting axe.  Sounds like I should get one.

As for the nasty stuff, I don't even own a splitting wedge.  If I can't split it with the maul, I noodle it with the saw.  Even if I can split the really twisted pieces, the result usually doesn't stack well.


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## SpaceBus (May 21, 2021)

When we started burning wood I thought I was going to split a bunch of knotty spruce and fir rounds by hand. Never again! It took a sledge and wedges for the majority of the rounds.


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## Solarguy3500 (May 21, 2021)

CreosoteCowboy said:


> Good info on the splitting axe.  Sounds like I should get one.
> 
> As for the nasty stuff, I don't even own a splitting wedge.  If I can't split it with the maul, I noodle it with the saw.  Even if I can split the really twisted pieces, the result usually doesn't stack well.



One thing that should be noted for anyone considering buying a GB axe or maul.

They only have one authorized US distributor called Grand Forest in SC. Grand Forest has a number of authorized retailers around the country, and they also sell directly to the public through their website, which is how I got my axe. GB has a 20 year warranty on their axes, but only if you get it from an authorized dealer. If you buy one on Amazon, eBay, etc. They will not honor the warranty.

Edit: One other thing to think about with regard to the GB large splitting axe is that they actually make 2 versions of it. The regular one has I believe a 27" handle with a curve at the end. They also make one called the Long and Large Splitting Axe which uses the same straight handle as their maul, which I believe is 31" long. This is the one I got because I'm 6'2" and I was afraid the shorter handle would be awkward for me to use.


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## Lakeside (May 21, 2021)

Solarguy3500 said:


> start from the edges and work your way in, rather than going for the center



That's the way to do -- Mikey likey !!


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## TradEddie (May 28, 2021)

I can't say enough good things about the Fiskars X27, I don't know how such a light tool can split so well, but it simply does. With its low weight, low vibration and normally only one one swing needed, it's the least tiring splitting tool I've ever had.  I have a sledge and wedges for tougher stuff, and although I do have an 8lb maul, it rarely gets used. Different wood types respond better to different tools, so its good to have a choice, but if I had to pick one, I'd pick the Fiskers, worth every penny.

TE


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## BIGChrisNH (May 29, 2021)

I like my Fiskars x27 as well, but ive been thinking of buying a new maul for a while now. Love seeing the pics in this thread. I only split by hand now for fun on occasion, my trusty Troy Bilt from 06 does almost all the work. Still sometimes it’s nice to split and not have to listen to an engine.


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## Wud (Nov 19, 2021)

`10 years splitting 70 cord 8 pound 36 inch fiberglass handle yardworks. Made by estwing? I split on the ground or right on the pile but usually on a 6 inch think round. It's split everything I swing at currently ash of course. Hickory elm sugar maple. Fresh cut wet and frozen splits best. Splitting is my favorite part. Due to overstrikes maul is at the end of its life. Never been sharpened`


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## Wisdomoak159#19 (Nov 27, 2021)

I use my fiskars for everything. Ten times better than any other splitting axe I've ever owned. If it won't crack it I bring out my home made solid steel maul. Probably weighs in between 25 to 35 pounds. It'll make your hands bleed. But that with a wedge or 2 is just about unstopable


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## heavy hammer (Nov 27, 2021)

I love my Wilton bash maul it is a little heavier but you can strike wedges with it and it has an industructable handle.  I have tried to break it.  I have hand split my whole life and it is by far the best that I have used.


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## bigealta (Nov 27, 2021)

Perhaps I’m doing it wrong?
I use this very dull old school basic maul that is the lightest one available in this shape that I have found (6lbs or maybe less). The key is the Curved wood Axe handle, And an extra handle or 2 as I can get a bit sloppy sometimes and electrical tape doesn’t really cut it, This boy has been thru 50+ cords maybe 100? Been using it for 40years. And it goes thru monster oak. Follow the natural cracks!


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## stoveliker (Nov 27, 2021)

bigealta said:


> Perhaps I’m doing it wrong?



If you get it split, there's nothing wrong


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## bigealta (Nov 28, 2021)

So I never knew who made this maul, thought it was maybe a true temper, until today when my wife said rub some flour on it. Discovered it’s a craftsman. If you ever see one like this at a garage sale I recommend pick it up.


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## RandyBoBandy (Dec 1, 2021)

I don’t own a maul.  Seems like a lot of work to swing a heavy a$$ axe. For giant rounds that I can’t or don’t want to lift I will noodle them into manageable pieces. Then use either the hydro splitter or a 3# felling axe. Once the wood makes it to the garage wood rack I use one of my GB axes to adjust splits or make kindling as needed. The small splitting axe is great for this chore. I also like swinging the small forest axe or the Scandinavian forest axe for kindling. Maybe one day I will get a nice vintage maul just because I’m an axe nerd.


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## Wud (Feb 12, 2022)

Questioning all the good reviews of the x27. Got one for Christmas. It is no where near as good as a fiberglass handle 8lb maul. X27 sticks in the wood pain. X27 is too light. Can't split bigger wood as fast pain. Nasty vibration in the handle completely unacceptable. They need to stop selling this model until it is revised. Will trade for maul se wi. Sorry guys are you splitting 3 inch rounds only with it. How can you use the thing let alone like it. Junk. Don't waste your money fiskars suck


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## stoveliker (Feb 12, 2022)

I have split 24" dia oak, maple, cherry, and pine with my x27. For me it works way better than the 8 lbs maul. Not some small wood. Real big logs.

Are you starting the splitting at the sides of the big logs? (Starting in the center is harder and can get it stuck.)

On the other hand, I recognize that this exercise is "tool+human body", and even if the tool is the same, the body is not. That could lead to cases where the two  don't work well together.


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## Tithis (Feb 12, 2022)

For a splitting axe I just have some Husky wood handled thing I got at home depot. Works well enough for stuff that isn't too big.

I also have a couple splitting wedges and a heavy maul I just use as a hammer. Some of the rounds I've had to split were 30 inches across and I can't imagine splitting the bigger round without them.


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## dontBurnDownTheHouse (Feb 13, 2022)

I found an old rusted out maul at a garage sale, the old lady sold it to me for 3 dollars. I put a new handle on it and rubbed it with a sharpening stone. It cuts better than my 60$ Fiskers.


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## Simonkenton (Feb 13, 2022)

I am so old school that I used a Monster Maul for many years.  I tried the Fiskars several years ago and I love it!  I am wacking 24 inch oak drums with one stroke with the Fiskars.  I had to put my beloved Monster Maul on  the bench.  Y'all who don't like the Fiskars, I don't know what to say to you.


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## Gearhead660 (Feb 13, 2022)

Have also split big rounds with my X27.  Love it. 
Use what you like.


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## patrickk222 (Feb 16, 2022)

personally i do use an 8 lb trouper maul  with a slight curve at the base of the handle which for whatever reason i really love ..... i did have some 4lb michigan headed splitting axe but the head came off the handles so i use em as an improptu wedge


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## RockyMtnGriz (Feb 16, 2022)

bigealta said:


> So I never knew who made this maul, thought it was maybe a true temper, until today when my wife said rub some flour on it. Discovered it’s a craftsman. If you ever see one like this at a garage sale I recommend pick it up.
> 
> View attachment 286612


I was in a Sears store some years ago (obviously), and the guy in front of me at the tool register was exchanging two(!) 8lb mauls with splintered handles from massive overstrikes.  By the looks of the paint on the heads, it's possible that neither one successfully split a piece of wood in the short time they were outside of the store.  To this day I remember him, and I think about how much fun it would be to be completely shameless!


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## Cluttermagnet (Feb 16, 2022)

I use them all- Fiskars splitting axe, a couple of 6lb. mauls, steel wedges (I have 4),
and a couple of sledge hammers to use on the wedges. I own the little 5 ton
electric splitter, mine is the Sears version, and it has held up very well for around
10 years or so. The electric splitter is amazingly capable. I've used rental gas
splitters courtesy of a neighbor, and they are indeed impressive. But I seem to
get by just fine with my electric.

I have to say that, for the great variety of wood types I split, I'd be lost without
my steel wedges. They are needed to get the big rounds down to where I can
move them around for further splitting. About half my wood is Red Oak, but also
plenty of Cherry and odds and ends. Recently I was given about a half cord of
Apple rounds. I'm not proud, I'll burn Tulip Poplar and Maple and a bunch of
other types too. Even the dreaded Pine. Heh! (Southern White Pine)

I think it comes down to the right tool for the job. I enjoy using all the above
splitting tools, and also various axes and hatchets etc. Nice to have choices.
I sort of let the wood types tell me what they need.


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