# How to install/seal the black stovepipe?



## hoverwheel (Jan 7, 2015)

My outside chimney (class a) is installed. The hearth is ready and the stove is in place.

I have some single wall black stovepipe to install, connecting the stove to the chimney, but plan to upgrade that to double wall pipe. This is the stovepipe in the living space and transitions into a class A (Selkirk) chimney at the wall.

I'd like to confirm how to seal and screw the joints..

I understand the joints need three screws and cement. I plan also to seal/cement the lengthwise seam.

Is THIS the cement to use on stovepipe joints and seams?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_64843-85334-GA0188_0__
http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/063467/063467845973lg.jpg
IMPERIAL 8-oz Stove and Fireplace Cement

Or this (red silicon)?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_305603-85334-KK0321_0__
http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/063467/063467856979lg.jpg
IMPERIAL 2.7-oz High-Temp Sealant

Or something else entirely?

Also, there is one 90 degree elbow that has several sections that can be turned to obtain less than 90 degree angles. I plan to put more cement on the inside along those turning seams. Is this correct or do those slip joints NOT need to be further sealed?

Again, this stovepipe will be replaced later with better, double walled pipe, but it is getting cold and this is what I have today!

Below is the mockup. The straight sections are 2'. Someone suggested an alternate (2 45 elbows and a diagonal) layout but I'll wait on that until I upgrade the stovepipe. (no, that is NOT the first fire kindling behind the glass)


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## Warm_in_NH (Jan 7, 2015)

No cement. Just screws. You'll need to get it apart to clean it some day.

Also, in your mock up, it looks like you're missing the stove pipe adapter that should be connecting you to the class "A" pipe.  They have them on the shelf at Lowes.


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## hoverwheel (Jan 7, 2015)

The adapter is there, but the pic was taken with a cell phone. You can just see the screw of the locking band at the top of the pipe.

I'm re-re-re-reading the manuals, but I thought I had read that cement/sealant of some sort was required. I'm trying to anticipate any objection the inspector may raise.


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## Warm_in_NH (Jan 7, 2015)

I could be wrong, happened once....years ago....

I just passed an inspection in CT with no cement on the single wall pipe.

I believe I've read on here that some stoves need the pipe, or double wall pipe adapter at the stove to be set into cement to fit properly, that may be where you read it in the manual as well?

I've always just put the long seam on the pipe facing away from the viewing area, or up on a horizontal run.

http://www.woodheat.org/flue-pipe-installation.html


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## bholler (Jan 7, 2015)

As long as everything fits reasonably tight there is no need for any sealant of any kind and it is undesirable to use any it makes a mess and makes it harder to service later


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## fossil (Jan 7, 2015)

3 screws at every joint, no sealant of any kind required.  The joints will not be absolutely airtight, but in a properly drafting system they don't need to be.  The pressure inside the flue is below that of the living space, so any slight airflow will be from the room into the flue.  Make sure all the joints are assembled properly, with the smaller male ends directed toward the stove.  The screws are crucial to the safety of the installation, as they will prevent joint separation in the event of a puff-back.  Rick


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## hoverwheel (Jan 8, 2015)

I'm going with the three screws, no sealant approach. Thanks everyone.


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## hoverwheel (Jan 12, 2015)

I used four screws at each joint, trimmed out the hearth, rechecked all the clearances and called the building inspector for an appointment. I'll find out tomorrow if all the prep was for naught.

I picked up a moisture meter, a stove top thermometer and a laser thermometer.


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## hoverwheel (Jan 13, 2015)

Passed inspection!


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## adrpga498 (Jan 13, 2015)

I have single wall and like the radiant heat from it. Something to ponder.


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## hoverwheel (Jan 14, 2015)

I seem to be able to run it flat out or smokey/smoulder...

Well, you all said there would be a learning curve! You were right.


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## Warm_in_NH (Jan 14, 2015)

Dry wood. Less than 20% on a fresh split. Cut the air back in stages, a good bed of coals helps a lot.
Biggest thing is the wood. Dry wood is key, if it's not ideal try using smaller splits, they'll dry quicker and they'll burn better if that's the issue.


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## Fsappo (Jan 14, 2015)

hoverwheel said:


> I used four screws at each joint, trimmed out the hearth, rechecked all the clearances and called the building inspector for an appointment. I'll find out tomorrow if all the prep was for naught.
> 
> I picked up a moisture meter, a stove top thermometer and a laser thermometer.



Prep is never for naught in regards to fire in your home.  That's a nice, neat installation.  Glad it passed.  Tap on that horizontal run once in a while.  If you here anything like a dull "thud" disconnect the elbow and take a peek.  Tapping that pipe should sound the same as tapping the vertical.

I find tapping the drum solo from *In-A-Gadda-Da-Vida *works great


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## hoverwheel (Jan 16, 2015)

Slowly getting the hang of this thing. Very much enjoying the "free" heat. I'm burning wood harvested from my property in the past year. Not ideal but seemingly common for a freshman burner. I'm curious to see how it performs next winter with better wood.

Moisture meter says most of it is at or below 20%, but not all


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## Osagebndr (Jan 17, 2015)

Is there any fall towards the stove in your horizontal pipe? If not I think it's supposed to have some. Good luck with the stove you have a nice setup


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## hoverwheel (Jan 17, 2015)

You mean the slope on the horizontal run? Yes. The rise is around 1 1/2" over 2' run.

Thanks. I'll post some pics soon. Finishing up some trim painting.


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## hoverwheel (Jan 18, 2015)

As you can plainly see, I still have to finish painting, but "Lady Guinevere" is running well and keeping the house warm. 

Heating the first floor (kitchen, dr, lr, laundry) and part of the second floor. ~800 sq ft. That's not the whole house but the rest is rarely enough used we don't worry about hearing it to comfort.

The picture is oddly shaped. I couldn't get enough distance for a full shoot so I used panorama closer to the stove. It isn't really curved LOL


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## Osagebndr (Jan 18, 2015)

Looks good. Nice fit and finish


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## kennyp2339 (Jan 18, 2015)

I like it...good job


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## Fsappo (Jan 19, 2015)

Not sure if it was mentioned yet, but if that is red high temp silicone around the pipe, you may be able to hit it with some black hi temp stove paint.  Unless you like the color!


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## bholler (Jan 19, 2015)

Fsappo said:


> you may be able to hit it with some black hi temp stove paint.


It wont stick at all i have tried.  We usually use black high temp silicone in those spots it is not as high temp as the red but it is fine there.  Regular silicone would probably be fine also


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## hoverwheel (Jan 19, 2015)

I had the choice of that (high temp silicone) or painters caulk. I initially planned to paint it black but it sort of grew on me. A little racing stripe?

If my wife so rules, I'll find some of the mentioned black silicone and redo that.


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## CenterTree (Jan 19, 2015)

hoverwheel said:


> I had the choice of that (high temp silicone) or painters caulk. I initially planned to paint it black but it sort of grew on me. A little racing stripe?
> 
> If my wife so rules, I'll find some of the mentioned black silicone and redo that.


Nah, just paint the wall red to match.


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## Typ0 (Jan 19, 2015)

I love the neon racing stripe!


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## BobUrban (Jan 20, 2015)

Sharpie should eliminate the red if you want/need to in the future.  I hit my telescoping stove pipe with a sharpie after cleaning the flue each time and it hides the small paint scratches to all but the most discerning eye.


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## Fsappo (Jan 20, 2015)

Sharpies are the secret weapon of the wood stove installer!


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