# Breckwell P2000i won't start after cleaning



## djs_net (Dec 21, 2011)

I shut down my stove to clean and now it won't start. When I attempt to start, it shuts down within 10 seconds and the #2 light flashes.
Per the manual, I've checked the following:
Airflow switch hose is not blocked.
Burnpot is clean and flush.
Combustion blower runs.
Door is closed tight.
Door seal appears to be in good shape.
All the wires are connected, especially wires to the air switch.
Control board appears to have power and is working properly.

Is there something else I've missed? It seems likely that it's a simple fix. The last troubleshooting tip for the #2 light flashing is for a faulty air switch but the manual says that's very rare. I just followed the procedure to test the air switch and it is good (I hear the click when gently sucking on the hose)

Any ideas or thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 21, 2011)

djs_net said:
			
		

> I shut down my stove to clean and now it won't start. When I attempt to start, it shuts down within 10 seconds and the #2 light flashes.
> Per the manual, I've checked the following:
> Airflow switch hose is not blocked.
> Burnpot is clean and flush.
> ...




Ash pan area closed and latched?


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## djs_net (Dec 21, 2011)

The ash doors are in place, the burnpot is on correctly, the door is latched.
The only 2 things left on the list in the manual are the vent pipe incorrectly installed and the door seal.

The vent pipe looks good to me, I had the stove professionally installed only a month ago so I assume the vent pipe is ok.
The stove was used when I bought it, but my installer told me the door seal was in good shape. I instected it and it looks fine.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 21, 2011)

djs_net said:
			
		

> The ash doors are in place, the burnpot is on correctly, the door is latched.
> The only 2 things left on the list in the manual are the vent pipe incorrectly installed and the door seal.
> 
> The vent pipe looks good to me, I had the stove professionally installed only a month ago so I assume the vent pipe is ok.
> The stove was used when I bought it, but my installer told me the door seal was in good shape. I instected it and it looks fine.



Gaskets need to be tested looks don't count.

The barb the vacuum line goes to can get plugged also the tee if you were running a brush in the venting, the termination cap can get plugged and finally cause a problem after the last shut down just before you clean.

You say the combustion blower is operating is it at speed?

You didn't by any chance fully close the damper did you?


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## djs_net (Dec 21, 2011)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

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The stove was running great. 
I'm not sure how to test the door gasket, I'm pretty new at this. It seems weird that it would suddenly not start, I would think that it would burn with a lazy flame if the gasket was starting to wear.
I did not use a brush or touch the venting.
I've tried to start it with the damper open and closed, didn't make any difference. Normally I start it with the damper mostly closed and open it up more after it gets cranking.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 21, 2011)

Dollar bill gasket test at two separated points on each side of the door, close the door on a pice of paper the size of a dollar bill.  Pull the bill out, the bill should come out but it has to present some resistance when pulled out, this must be true at all of the test points.

The same should be done to any ash pan door areas if there is a gasket there.

You can have a bad gasket, or a loose latch, or a misaligned door.

It is even possible for a number of small air leaks into the fire box area to cause this as well.

When you cleaned the stove did you open up and clean the ash traps?


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## djs_net (Dec 21, 2011)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

> Dollar bill gasket test at two separated points on each side of the door, close the door on a pice of paper the size of a dollar bill.  Pull the bill out, the bill should come out but it has to present some resistance when pulled out, this must be true at all of the test points.
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> The same should be done to any ash pan door areas if there is a gasket there.
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It passed the dollar bill test. It was very tight (hard to move the bill) all around the door at every test point.
The P2000i has 3 ash doors in the fire box. I removed all of them and vacuumed thouroughly behind. They are all back in place properly.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 21, 2011)

djs_net said:
			
		

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When you were playing in the traps is there any chance you pushed ash back further into the combustion air path and maybe into the combustion blowers chamber?  Also, did you go upwards in those traps to the top of the fire box by the heat exchanger tubes?

If there is a tube scrapper on the unit has it been operated and returned to the back of the heat exchanger?


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## djs_net (Dec 21, 2011)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

> When you were playing in the traps is there any chance you pushed ash back further into the combustion air path and maybe into the combustion blowers chamber?  Also, did you go upwards in those traps to the top of the fire box by the heat exchanger tubes?
> 
> If there is a tube scrapper on the unit has it been operated and returned to the back of the heat exchanger?



I don't think I push any ash into the combustion blower but it's possible. There is a heat exchange tube cleaner, I use it pretty much every time I vacuum the stove and always return it to the back of the heat exchanger.

I'm reading a link to Breckwell troubleshooting:

http://www.hearthtools.com/parts/Breckwell_help.htm 

There is a mention of bypassing the vacuum switch  http://www.hearthtools.com/parts/breckwell_vacuum_switch_test.htm  (I assume this is the air switch) but the wires are supposed to be grey and white. The wires on my stove are both grey, so I'm a little hesitant to bypass it.


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## Kiver (Dec 21, 2011)

I have a p2000fs and there is another clean out in the top right roof corner.  I was getting the blinking 2 also and just did a good cleaning.  Did the leaf blower also.  That was about a week ago.  My clean out trap got pretty dirty quick


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## djs_net (Dec 21, 2011)

Kiver said:
			
		

> I have a p2000fs and there is another clean out in the top right roof corner.  I was getting the blinking 2 also and just did a good cleaning.  Did the leaf blower also.  That was about a week ago.  My clean out trap got pretty dirty quick



I cannot locate any cleanout trap in the top of the firebox. The manual refers to removing the upper baffle by loosening a screw but I don't see it. I think that might only be for the FS model.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Dec 21, 2011)

djs_net said:
			
		

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The area on both the right and left hand sides of the firebox above and below the the heat exchanger tubes leads down to the ash traps, this area gets a good dose of ash in if it becomes plugged you get the #2 error.  That is why I mentioned the brush up the ash traps.


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## djs_net (Dec 21, 2011)

Yeah, the stove is cleaner than ever...I also removed the combustion blower and vacuumed that area (wasn't too ashy) and made sure the blower gasket is sealed properly.

My best guess at this time is a faulty air switch even though I followed the instructions to "test" it by sucking on the tube and hearing a feint click. 
Does anyone have an opinion on following these instructions: http://www.hearthtools.com/parts/breckwell_vacuum_switch_test.htm and bypassing the switch? The two wires to my switch are both grey (not grey and white).


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## djs_net (Dec 21, 2011)

Well, it turns out it was the air switch. I bypassed the switch and the stove fired right up.
The thing the confused me is that the owners manual and the Breckwell website says that the air switch is the most reliable part on the stove and rarely malfunctions. I also tested the switch by sucking on the hose and I heard the click which usually indicates a good switch.
Anyways, the stove is running, and the replacement switch has been ordered and has already been shipped.

Thanks for the replies!


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## HopeItBurns (Dec 21, 2011)

You have to be careful when sucking the back wall, I use the brush attachment for the back wall. When using direct vacuum, could be possible to screw the air switch up.


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## djs_net (Jan 1, 2012)

Well, I guess it wasn't the air switch...I shut down the stove to clean it and replaced the switch, now I'm back to where I started with the quick shut down and flashing 2. 
At this point I have no idea what could be causing the air swich to not recognized the pressure. The stove is clean, I've checked the pressure hose, I've removed and cleaned the combustion blower, I've ran the dollar bill test (passed). The stove works fine if I bypass the switch, but I'd obviously prefer to not run it like permanently.

Any more ideas? This is frustrating.


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## jtakeman (Jan 1, 2012)

Did you inspect the hose? Sometimes that split or break. Also be sure its not plugged up with crud. Remove the hose from the switch and blow air towards the stove housing.

Lastly is the connections to the switch. I have seen them corrode and work when jumped out, But fail when reconnected to the switch. Clean with contact cleaner(if green). Squeeze them a bit(not to hard or you will crush the connector) to make a tight connection to the switch.


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## djs_net (Jan 1, 2012)

j-takeman said:
			
		

> Did you inspect the hose? Sometimes that split or break. Also be sure its not plugged up with crud. Remove the hose from the switch and blow air towards the stove housing.
> 
> Lastly is the connections to the switch. I have seen them corrode and work when jumped out, But fail when reconnected to the switch. Clean with contact cleaner(if green). Squeeze them a bit(not to hard or you will crush the connector) to make a tight connection to the switch.



The hose was checked pretty closely when this first happened. I removed it, inspected it, and blew through. It's not plugged and sure doesn't appear to be cracked or broken.
The connections to the switch are not corroded at all, they were loose when I attached them to the new replacement switch so I did have to squeeze them to make a nice tight connection.


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## imacman (Jan 1, 2012)

If you're SURE that the hose and the connection that the hose goes on in the stove is clear, then I'd investigate a dirty exhaust system.  Poor airflow through the exhaust will cause the switch to trip, as it's supposed to.

Clean the ENTIRE exhaust system, starting at the combustion blower all the way to the cap.

You stated in the beginning that this was a used stove.....was it completely disassembled and cleaned before installing it?  

This has all the earmarks of a dirty stove, IMO.


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## jtakeman (Jan 1, 2012)

Yep, sure sounds like a plugged vent if the switch is good and no bad connections. She won't pull enough vacuum ifs she's plugged with crud.

Got a leaf blower handy?


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## djs_net (Jan 1, 2012)

I'm still new at this so anything is possible. The stove was cleaned pretty thoroughly before installation including being blown out good from every angle with a leaf blower while it was still in the driveway. I had a good look at the chimney piping before it was installed and it certainly looked used but was totally clear and only had a small amount of ash/soot.

If I remove the exhaust vent from the combustion blower, I guess I need to break the high temp epoxy that was used by my installer. What exactly do I need to buy to reassemble? Does it have a name besides high temp epoxy? Is it available at Lowes?


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## djs_net (Jan 1, 2012)

j-takeman said:
			
		

> Yep, sure sounds like a plugged vent if the switch is good and no bad connections. She won't pull enough vacuum ifs she's plugged with crud.
> 
> Got a leaf blower handy?



I do have a (electric) leaf blower. I assume you're refering to following the instructions to the leaf blower trick...getting up on the chimney and attaching the vacuum end of the blower to the cap etc?

Can I do this instead of disassembling the combustion blower/vent?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 1, 2012)

djs_net said:
			
		

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Yes.


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## djs_net (Jan 1, 2012)

OK, the leaf blower trick isn't going to happen right now (long story). I did take the exhaust pipe/combustion blower off and cleaned it up real good with a brush, vacuum and ended up using the leaf blower to BLOW from the bottom of the chimney piping upwards. A little ash got in the house but mostly it seemed to clear out the exhaust vent very well. At this point I find it hard to believe that it's so plugged that it's tripping the air switch, but it's STILL shutting down with a #2 error. If it is the exhaust that's causing the error, I'm thinking it's somehow blocked at the cap. This doesn't make sense to me since the install was so recent.

I don't see any option at this point except to call the installer and pay to have him go on my roof and check the exhaust (again). This sucks.


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## imacman (Jan 1, 2012)

We're not saying that it absolutely IS the exhaust pipe.  We're saying that it could be anywhere in the stove, from the air inlet all the way to the cap, and anywhere in between.  

When I asked about whether or not the stove was disassembled after you got it, just blowing air through parts of the stove with a leaf blower isn't going to cut it, in most cases.  A LOT of the flyash gets caked inside the traps, and has to be scraped away.  Many people use a small hammer and physically bang on the back steel walls of the firebox to dislodge the ash (unless the back wall is cast iron, then do NOT do this!)

You needed to physically remove all blowers, the auger and motor, any ash trap covers, burn pot, any plates or other covers around the heat exchangers, etc, etc, etc, and then use stiff brushes, vacuum, scrapers, etc, etc.

From what the veteran members here have seen MANY times in the past, is the reason a used stove became "used" in the first place.....the original owner didn't maintain it correctly and got rid of it because the "stove is no da** good!".

Now, I'm not saying that this is absolutely 100% the problem, but if you get the stove squeaky clean, then that eliminates a LOT of questions.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 1, 2012)

djs_net said:
			
		

> OK, the leaf blower trick isn't going to happen right now (long story). I did take the exhaust pipe/combustion blower off and cleaned it up real good with a brush, vacuum and ended up using the leaf blower to BLOW from the bottom of the chimney piping upwards. A little ash got in the house but mostly it seemed to clear out the exhaust vent very well. At this point I find it hard to believe that it's so plugged that it's tripping the air switch, but it's STILL shutting down with a #2 error. If it is the exhaust that's causing the error, I'm thinking it's somehow blocked at the cap. This doesn't make sense to me since the install was so recent.
> 
> I don't see any option at this point except to call the installer and pay to have him go on my roof and check the exhaust (again). This sucks.



You still have the area from the combustion blower cavity all the way to the firebox,  this path would end at the areas above and below the heat exchanger tubes on both the right and left side of the firebox.


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## mikkeeh (Jan 1, 2012)

Im kinda new to this...and I understand about keeping a stove clean..........But why would the stove fire up and run fine with the vacuum switch bypassed.......... then stop running again.   Wouldnt an intermittant control board issue be more probable?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 1, 2012)

mikkeeh said:
			
		

> Im kinda new to this...and I understand about keeping a stove clean..........But why would the stove fire up and run fine with the vacuum switch bypassed.......... then stop running again.   Wouldnt an intermittant control board issue be more probable?



The only reason the stove ran was because the #1 safety in the stove was removed from the loop.

It is not a control board issue, it was and is a combustion airflow issue.


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## mikkeeh (Jan 1, 2012)

Thx for the explanation.


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## djs_net (Jan 2, 2012)

imacman said:
			
		

> We're not saying that it absolutely IS the exhaust pipe.  We're saying that it could be anywhere in the stove, from the air inlet all the way to the cap, and anywhere in between.
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> *When I asked about whether or not the stove was disassembled after you got it, just blowing air through parts of the stove with a leaf blower isn't going to cut it, in most cases.  A LOT of the flyash gets caked inside the traps, and has to be scraped away.  Many people use a small hammer and physically bang on the back steel walls of the firebox to dislodge the ash (unless the back wall is cast iron, then do NOT do this!)
> 
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I'm certainly no expert (yet), but I have had the stove apart several times and cleaned every chamber and area  shown in the manual. I've seen very little ash buildup that would require any scraping, mostly a fine powder that easily gets sucked up by a vac or blown away by the blower. As others have stated many times in the threads, keeping these stoves clean isn't rocket science. I might be missing something but unless there is a hidden compartment that I can't access, the issue is not inside the stove itself.

*Note: I have NOT done anything with the auger or auger motor. It doesn't make sense to me that this could be the problem and there's no mention of it in the troubleshooting section of the manual.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 2, 2012)

djs_net said:
			
		

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Pete was just telling you the general procedure to follow when getting a used stove home.  

We have seen the thrash you are going through repeated here several times each year.

Many folks on here have gotten used stoves and gone through the dirty stove blues.

It is also possible that if that vacuum switch has two ports on it that you hooked the hose to the wrong port after cleaning.  As the manual states it is very rare for a pressure differential switch to be bad.  Not impossible but as you have already found out not likely.


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## djs_net (Jan 2, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

> You still have the area from the combustion blower cavity all the way to the firebox,  this path would end at the areas above and below the heat exchanger tubes on both the right and left side of the firebox.



I'm not sure what area you're talking about here. I cleaned inside the combustion blower cavity... and I believe in my stove, that this cavity is connected to the firebox through the 3 ash doors.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 2, 2012)

djs_net said:
			
		

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No it is not, you need to trace the air path from the intake through the burn pot, up and through the heat exchanger and back down behind the side and back walls of the fire box, and out to the combustion blower cavity and then on to the venting.


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