# Mitsubishi Heat pump quote



## Woodspliter (Feb 26, 2021)

So I finally got a install date for my heat pumps! After extensive research I decided to go with mitsubishi hyper heat they just can out with a new fs model that is supposed to be even better the the fh I guess.  I'm getting thre
e single units for better efficient and it was actually CHEAPER than to buy one multi zone and a single! I'm going with a 6k in the bedroom and 15k In my living room and a 12k for my basement. I think I got a smoking deal 10,900 installed including electrical work with a 12 year warranty and they're going to evacuate and remove my existing mini split that isn't a cold weather uint


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## Brian26 (Feb 26, 2021)

Woodspliter said:


> So I finally got a install date for my heat pumps! After extensive research I decided to go with mitsubishi hyper heat they just can out with a new fs model that is supposed to be even better the the fh I guess.  I'm getting thre
> e single units for better efficient and it was actually CHEAPER than to buy one multi zone and a single! I'm going with a 6k in the bedroom and 15k In my living room and a 12k for my basement. I think I got a smoking deal 10,900 installed including electrical work with a 12 year warranty and they're going to evacuate and remove my existing mini split that isn't a cold weather uint



Did you get the rebate on them from Efficiency Maine? I remember reading last year they were increasing it to $1k per ton.


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## Woodspliter (Feb 26, 2021)

Yeah for maine it's based on hspf of the unit it's a two tier program with the maximum rebate of 1500 dollars. To get the 1000 on the first unit it has to be a single  zone over 12.5 hspf and samenwith the second to get the 500


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## Brian26 (Feb 27, 2021)

It makes a lot of sense to have a heat pump in Maine and Its nice that the state is offering great incentives. The electric grid there is 80% renewable. I remember reading they actually export a good chunk of power to other states as they have a healthy surplus of excess generation. Using this excess local clean power to offset heating oil makes a ton of sense.


Some interesting facts on Maines power grid according to the EIA.

Nearly two-thirds of Maine households use fuel oil as their primary energy source for home heating, a larger share than any other state.

In 2019, 80% of Maine's electricity net generation came from renewable energy resources, and hydroelectric power provided the largest share at 31%.

Maine leads New England in wind-powered generation and ranks sixth in the nation in the share of its electricity generated from wind. In 2019, wind provided about 24% of Maine's in-state net generation.

Biomass supplies one-fourth of Maine’s net generation, the largest share of any state, and most of the biomass Maine uses for electricity generation is wood and wood waste-derived fuels.

Last Updated: July 16, 2020


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## Woodspliter (Feb 27, 2021)

That is great, I knew we did have a pretty good diverse power grid happy to do my part to help the environment! It makes me wonder really why so many people oppose the clean energy corridor. I do like to use the northern maine woods to Atv riding it is beautiful country up there. I may be opposed to have power lines in my back yard but I believe that it is the oil and coal that is putting up the fight to stop it.  


 We only have wood as our main heat source as of right now so having a system that can heat for pretty much year around cleanly and efficiently is going to be really awesome! I love the wood heat but it seems almost foolish to do it full time when you can heat with one of these heat pumps so inexpensively. Maine is very dependent on oil heat I almost went that route but decided against it. After I installed a new heat pump water heat that is super efficient and a little Help from this forum actually.


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## GENECOP (Feb 27, 2021)

Cant be considered a smoking deal until after its complete..


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## maple1 (Feb 27, 2021)

Wood heat and mini-splits is a great combo. Deal sounds decent? Hard to compare apples across borders though. Our 2 cold climate Daikins cost us about 8k, Canadian, all in and installed, a couple years ago. I know there might be cheaper ways to go, buying cheaper units and doing some or most of the work yourself - but I just don't have the time or inclination anymore for projects, and our installer is A1 for after the project service/warranty stuff, if ever needed.


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## Woodspliter (Feb 27, 2021)

With the rebate it will end being 9400 hundred and that includes all the electrical work and removing one existing system I think I did very well. We got the quote same day and book for three weeks from now.


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## Brian26 (Feb 27, 2021)

Woodspliter said:


> With the rebate it will end being 9400 hundred and that includes all the electrical work and removing one existing system I think I did very well. We got the quote same day and book for three weeks from now.



That is a great price. I think there are alot of installers in Maine so the pricing might be lower.  Its also probably much cheaper to have a business there then say here in CT. Mini splits prices are still really high here.

  Efficiency Maine claims they have installed 60,000 heat pumps so far.  Maine has a law or legislation to hit 100k by 2025 so the demand is only going to grow. That usually means more installers and better pricing with competition.

Which Mitsubishi models did you get? Have any model numbers? I can look up the cold weather performance for you on the cold climate New England NEEP list.  
.


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## Woodspliter (Feb 27, 2021)

That would be great I tried to navigate that site but I found it to be pretty tricky.


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## Brian26 (Feb 27, 2021)

Woodspliter said:


> That would be great I tried to navigate that site but I found it to be pretty tricky.



Here are your 3 units on the neep site. They all have really good performance even at 5 degrees. If you look at the maximum capacity tables you will see that they can actually put out way more than they are rated. That 6k unit can lower all the way down to only 640 btus. That's an impressive capacity range. 

6k





						ASHP
					






					ashp.neep.org
				



12k





						ASHP
					






					ashp.neep.org
				



15k





						ASHP
					






					ashp.neep.org


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## Woodspliter (Feb 27, 2021)

That's awesome Brian I appreciate that a lot! I know there's more efficient equipment put there but from what I've heard the mitsubishi's are pretty reliable. I guess time will tell! I post some install pictures when they're installed


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## coolidge (Feb 27, 2021)

I bought mine last year mainly for AC, but ran my bigger one ( can remember size)all winter and it kept a 24 x24 open area at 70 even those couple night when we hit 8 below. Quite impressed, might get a couple more this year.


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## Woodspliter (Feb 27, 2021)

Great news, the guy that  gave me quote said the 15k will do the whole upstairs of my 1100 sq ranch and just said that they recommend having some source of back up


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## maple1 (Feb 28, 2021)

Mini splits do better overall the more open the living space is.


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## UpStateNY (Feb 28, 2021)

Woodspliter said:


> So I finally got ......


Woodsplitter you got a  good deal. 

For $14,200,  I had my buddy install two 24K mini-splits Fujitsu - AOU24RLXFZH compressors with two 12k for living-dining rooms, for three bedrooms two 9K,  and one 7K.  Simaler system from other contractors were quoted at $16,500 and $20,000.  Months later I  got a $7,600 rebate check from Central Hudson Power.  With rebate I could not pass this deal up   In summer we now have awesome AC with low humidity throughout the house at a ridiculous low energy cost.


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## SpaceBus (Feb 28, 2021)

How bad are these for DIY install? Thinking about getting some portable AC units for summer time, but two mini splits would be nice. I haven't read the Maine rebate small print in a while, does it cover DIY install?

Edit: Also curious as to how to size the unit(s). Our house is a small well insulated saltbox and our primary heat is a 32kbtu peak rated wood stove.


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## UpStateNY (Feb 28, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> How bad are these for DIY install? Thinking about getting some portable AC units for summer time, but two mini splits would be nice. I haven't read the Maine rebate small print in a while, does it cover DIY install?


The fine print is the manufaturing waranty would probably be  voided for DIY install.  I watched them do the install which did not seem that difficult.   IMO Charging the lines with refrigerant and checking for leaks requires a professional with professional equipment   My 7k in one of the bedrooms had a leak, which they found and fixed.  Oh yeah the Central Hudson Power rebate is only possible if installed by one of Central Hudson approved installers that has to submit special  heat lost report.


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## Woodspliter (Feb 28, 2021)

Efficiency maine requires professional installation to qualify for the rebate. I was thinking of self install but I figured it wasn't worth it. You get a 12 warranty if a diamond mitsubishi installs them. It was worth  having them sized correctly, I would have installed a 18k btus in the living room and basement and at an efficiency standpoint its not as good as the 15k and 12k. For some reason the smaller output the more efficient.


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## MapleHill (Mar 1, 2021)

I'd love to hear more about this 'FS' model.  I just got quoted for an FH18 but am wondering if I should be asking for the FS.  Do you happen to know what's different about it?


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## Brian26 (Mar 1, 2021)

MapleHill said:


> I'd love to hear more about this 'FS' model.  I just got quoted for an FH18 but am wondering if I should be asking for the FS.  Do you happen to know what's different about it?



The difference looks to be the FS is more efficient and has better cold weather capacity. It would probably make sense for you in VT.  The FH series is only rated to -4 I believe.


H2i plus performance offers 100% heating capacity at -5 degrees and 70% to 81% heating capacity at -13 degrees F


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## peakbagger (Mar 1, 2021)

Woodspliter said:


> Efficiency maine requires professional installation to qualify for the rebate. I was thinking of self install but I figured it wasn't worth it. You get a 12 warranty if a diamond mitsubishi installs them. It was worth  having them sized correctly, I would have installed a 18k btus in the living room and basement and at an efficiency standpoint its not as good as the 15k and 12k. For some reason the smaller output the more efficient.



My info is starting to get dated since I havent had access to AC techs like I used to. In the past the techs I talked to universally commented that the repairs they saw were non warranty. Their claim was with the name brands that they either worked out of the box or they didn't. They rarely actually fixed them, they just swapped them out as they are not designed to be serviceable beyond basic cleaning. The biggest issue by far was physical abuse of the outside unit. They are very compact and hitting them does not bode well. I heard stories of snowplow damage by snowplows pushing snow into them, basket balls hitting them and  folks tugging on refrigerant lines. None of them are covered.

The other issue is pet hair. Cats apparently like to climb on top of  them when they are not running and owners on occasion remove the filters when they are plugged and dont put them back in. The internal coils have very fine pitch and once they start to plug the performance goes way down and defrost cycles take longer. They have internal drip tray that can can fill up with fine dust and scum that can plug causing water to drip out of the case  under the unit. There are You Tube videos on spraying the internal coil to clean it and cleaning the tray and the blower wheel.  The other issue in Maine is fine blowing snow filling the outdoor unit or someone inadvertently aiming a snowblower discharge at it (been there done that). I am a big advocate of putting an elevated slant roof over the unit with overhangs. Some applications where blowing snow may be an issue will install optional snow shields that keep the snow out of the unit while allowing air flow.


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## MapleHill (Mar 1, 2021)

Brian26 said:


> The difference looks to be the FS is more efficient and has better cold weather capacity. It would probably make sense for you in VT.  The FH series is only rated to -4 I believe.
> 
> 
> H2i plus performance offers 100% heating capacity at -5 degrees and 70% to 81% heating capacity at -13 degrees F



Very weird, I could've sworn that the sales rep told me it would go down to -13 (MUZ-FH18NA2). 

I just found this, it appears to be the "FS deluxe wall mount" which has a coating on the internal components that resists dust and needs less cleaning?  That sounds appealing:






						New Products | Mitsubishi Electric HVAC
					

Mitsubishi Electric continually redefines the leading edge in electric heating and cooling. Visit us to learn more about the newest products in our offering.




					www.mitsubishicomfort.com
				




Here's a question: if one planned to only use the heat pump about 30 degrees (outside) and up...  is it worth paying more for the -13 series or should one settle for a -5 or 5 degree unit?  I would heat with wood below 30 degrees so it doesn't make much sense to me to pay extra for the ultra low temp models.


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## Woodspliter (Mar 1, 2021)

I'd Go with the low temp, for a extra initial investment and the life span of the heat 20 years you may have changed your mind about things


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## CaptSpiff (Mar 1, 2021)

MapleHill said:


> Here's a question: if one planned to only use the heat pump about 30 degrees (outside) and up...  is it worth paying more for the -13 series or should one settle for a -5 or 5 degree unit?  I would heat with wood below 30 degrees so it doesn't make much sense to me to pay extra for the ultra low temp models.


My issue with wood heat is: who manages it when I'm gone?
No,... not dead,..... gone as in a long weekend away, or any winter vacation?
I see your avatar has a pellet stove, and that's a good 24 hr operating window, but to me wood heat has always been supplemental.
I'd get the lowest outdoor temp operating unit for that reason alone.


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## MapleHill (Mar 1, 2021)

CaptSpiff said:


> My issue with wood heat is: who manages it when I'm gone?
> No,... not dead,..... gone as in a long weekend away, or any winter vacation?
> I see your avatar has a pellet stove, and that's a good 24 hr operating window, but to me wood heat has always been supplemental.
> I'd get the lowest outdoor temp operating unit for that reason alone.



Good point, Cap'n.  I neglected to mention that our 2nd source of heat is oil hot water.  So that's our backup or primary depending on the price of pellets.  But good point, it'd be nice not to worry about frozen pipes over a long weekend.


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## Woodspliter (Mar 1, 2021)

Peak I do agree to a certain degree with you. I think that they're are disposable units to a certain degree. There is some sensitive electronics inside these things. I'm installing a whole home surge protector. So unless someone crashes into a outdoor uint or lightning strikes twice I should be covered!I have totall faith in these mitsubishi's. But you never know chit does happen my opinion is that, it's is a small price to pay for pice of mind. The new FS is supposed to have a coating on the indoor units to help them stay cleaner. I agree keeping them clean is the single most important thing to keep them efficient and dependable other than proper installation.


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## DuaeGuttae (Mar 1, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> How bad are these for DIY install? Thinking about getting some portable AC units for summer time, but two mini splits would be nice. I haven't read the Maine rebate small print in a while, does it cover DIY install?
> 
> Edit: Also curious as to how to size the unit(s). Our house is a small well insulated saltbox and our primary heat is a 32kbtu peak rated wood stove.



Spacebus, have you seen @Brian26  ‘s thread about the Midea U-Shaped air conditioners from last year?  They’re basically little inverter air conditioners that install similarly to a traditional window air conditioner, but the u-shaped design keeps more of the noise outside.  We ordered two through the introductory promotion last year, and there was some damage to one of the units in shipping.  Midea replaced the unit in a much better packed shipping container, and we’ve really been impressed with the units.

My husband works at home now, and his office doesn’t have HVAC directly to it.  It just benefits from two neighboring rooms.  We didn’t need to cool those rooms during the day, though, so  this unit allows him to cool his office efficiently.  The other we put in our big downstairs open plan area (kitchen, dining room, family room, school/craft/garden room) where we spend all of our time.  During hot but not brutal times it allows us not to use the central air in the area, though it really can’t keep up during extreme Texas heat because our area is oversized for its specs.

In our case, it allows us to air condition more efficiently than running central air units unnecessarily.  In your case, of course, you would be adding air conditioning, but I wanted to point these out as a much easier and cheaper alternative to traditional mini-splits.  

Just google Midea U-shaped air conditioner if you’re interested in checking them out.


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## SpaceBus (Mar 2, 2021)

DuaeGuttae said:


> Spacebus, have you seen @Brian26  ‘s thread about the Midea U-Shaped air conditioners from last year?  They’re basically little inverter air conditioners that install similarly to a traditional window air conditioner, but the u-shaped design keeps more of the noise outside.  We ordered two through the introductory promotion last year, and there was some damage to one of the units in shipping.  Midea replaced the unit in a much better packed shipping container, and we’ve really been impressed with the units.
> 
> My husband works at home now, and his office doesn’t have HVAC directly to it.  It just benefits from two neighboring rooms.  We didn’t need to cool those rooms during the day, though, so  this unit allows him to cool his office efficiently.  The other we put in our big downstairs open plan area (kitchen, dining room, family room, school/craft/garden room) where we spend all of our time.  During hot but not brutal times it allows us not to use the central air in the area, though it really can’t keep up during extreme Texas heat because our area is oversized for its specs.
> 
> ...


Unfortunately we don't have a single double hung window in the house. I do really like the idea of these Midea "U" units and would do it if we had different windows.


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## EbS-P (Mar 2, 2021)

I’m getting some quotes for a mini split this week and wondered if if anyone thinks a generator transfer switch for a mini split is a good idea.  I don’t have a transfer switch at my panels but have considered it. 










						Mini Split Disconnect with Generator Standby Plug and Switch 240v 25amp DSS25
					

With the DSS25 240v 25amp Disconnect switch connect directly to a generator with a standard NEMA L14-30P plug. Produced by MarketAir this product is a neccessity when power outages occur while also acting as a code required power disconnect. Indicator light with toggle switch to go between power...



					www.budgetheating.com
				





Evan


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## Brian26 (Mar 2, 2021)

EbS-P said:


> I’m getting some quotes for a mini split this week and wondered if if anyone thinks a generator transfer switch for a mini split is a good idea.  I don’t have a transfer switch at my panels but have considered it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Way easier and cheaper to just wire a plug on your mini split wires from the disconnect and plug it right into the 220 generator outlet. The wires are easy to access inside the disconnect.  I installed a whole house transfer plug but had 2 plugs and wires ready to go for both my splits before I did that. 

Another plus with mini splits on generators is there is zero start up stage on them.


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## Woodspliter (Mar 2, 2021)

I have a gentran box out the outside of my house and an interlock switch so I can back feed right to the panel. Simple easy and not much money


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## DuaeGuttae (Mar 2, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> Unfortunately we don't have a single double hung window in the house. I do really like the idea of these Midea "U" units and would do it if we had different windows.



Oops.  I think maybe I’ve even mentioned them to you before.  Casement windows ring a bell.  I misread your wording of “portable” as “window” air conditioners.


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## tabner (Mar 4, 2021)

@Woodspliter i think you got a good deal.  I had one outdoor unit (MXZ-3C30NAHZ2-U1) installed with three indoor heads (2, MSZ-GL06NA-U1, and 1, MSZ-GL15NA-U1).  I paid 11,800 (after the rebates) for the whole system installed with the 12 year warranty (and 3 year labor warranty).   
Only complaint so far is I should have sprung for the branch box and had all the lines run off a box in the attic.  Instead the whole back of my house is covered in line hide.  But that's my fault.
Does anybody know if my model is the -5 or -13?  It's supposed to be hyper heat, but i didn't realize there were two temp mins.


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## Woodspliter (Mar 4, 2021)

*Yeah tanner, when I talked to the first installer about a 36k multi zone he said the branch box was like 1500 bucks plus labor and need to run a 8awg wire for another circuit,  I quickly decided against that. I love The fact of the 3 singles other than cluttering up the exterior of the house in witch they won't be visible for the road but the extra Efficiency and being able to run them  independently of each other nevermind the fact that they're more cost effective was the deciding factor . *


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## Brian26 (Mar 5, 2021)

Where these units really shine are being able to heat and cool just one room or area. Below is a good example. I have 3 independent single zone 12k units. With my wife working from home the last year she setup her office right under our downstairs unit and she loves it. No need to keep the entire house at 70 when she's just working in 1 room. I know other people getting huge bills keeping their entire house at 70 when its just 1 person in 1 room working from home.


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## SpaceBus (Mar 5, 2021)

How much more efficient would three separate mini splits be compared to one larger one with three zones?


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## Brian26 (Mar 5, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> How much more efficient would three separate mini splits be compared to one larger one with three zones?



They are usually much more efficient when you compare SEER and HSPF numbers.  The main issue with them is they are usually way oversized.

Single zone units have a much lower turn down ratio. A 12k single unit can modulate from lets say 1200-12000 btus. A 36k btu Mitsubishi multi split will usually have a range of like 9k-36k btu. Those higher minimum speeds are often too much for the actual load. The multi splits have losses as they are pumping refrigerant to each head even if they aren't on.

Here is a good example. You have 3 rooms each with their own 12k units. In the summer a room might only need 1500 btu/hr of cooling.  The single zone units can throttle down that low. The lower the load the greater the efficiency with mini splits.

Lets say you have a 36k btu multi split with a 12k head in each room. Since the minimum cooling output is 9k if your ran just one head you are oversized by 6 times. Running all 3 your still oversized by 2.

A 36k multisplit might draw lets say 1000 watts at minimum speed supplying 9k. A single zone can supply 1500 btus and only use like 100-150 watts each.  The multisplit is using like 3 times the power and is ridiculously oversized.

On another forum there are endless posts about people getting massive electric bills with these multi's. Maine knows this is an issue and that is why they are only giving out the incentive to single zone units. Its now widely recommended on most green building forums to install multiple single zones.

You also get redundancy. It would take all 3 of my single zones to break for me to lose heat.  On a multi split all your units go down. Its also easier to repair a single zone if there is a leak. A single zone has 2 refrigerant lines and 4 flare fittings. A 3 unit multisplit has 6 refrigerant lines and 12 flares between condenser and inside units. They are challenging to get installed leak free as there are so many connections thar can leak and the unit goes down. Much easier to trace a leak on a single zone.


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## DBoon (Mar 5, 2021)

MapleHill said:


> Here's a question: if one planned to only use the heat pump about 30 degrees (outside) and up... is it worth paying more for the -13 series or should one settle for a -5 or 5 degree unit? I would heat with wood below 30 degrees so it doesn't make much sense to me to pay extra for the ultra low temp models.



The units that operate in very cold temperatures are typically much less efficient overall, perhaps by a factor of 1.5. If you already have something else as backup heat (besides your woodstove), then I think it would make the most sense to install a unit that operates at higher outdoor temperatures and just switch to the other backup heat source as needed below that temperature.


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## EbS-P (Mar 6, 2021)

I just got a quote of $4000 not including electrical work for a single 15k BTU unit MUZ-FH15na
MSZ-FH15NA

another outfit wanted $6700 for 27k btu unit for the same space.  Install can’t get much simpler.  I think I’m going to look at a Blaze King insert and skip the mini split or DIY it. 

Seems like you are getting a good deal but prices down here near the beach  can be steep any time you need quality tradesman work.  
Evan


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## SpaceBus (Mar 6, 2021)

EbS-P said:


> I just got a quote of $4000 not including electrical work for a single 15k BTU unit MUZ-FH15na
> MSZ-FH15NA
> 
> another outfit wanted $6700 for 27k btu unit for the same space.  Install can’t get much simpler.  I think I’m going to look at a Blaze King insert and skip the mini split or DIY it.
> ...



This is the issue I have living in "Vacationland", especially on the coast. As a result I don't really hire many things out. So far the only thing I couldn't do myself was secure and install a new utility pole and some emergency plumbing work. Even if you could afford to hire any tradesmen, they are always booked out working for vacationers or landlords. The DIY looks like a better deal even if I can't get the rebates.


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## Woodspliter (Mar 7, 2021)

Space bus I price just the equipment for my install and it was in 6700 bucks on an internet wholesale gotductless.com. for 3200 bucks for a complete install with foundation brackets linsets and wiring I think it's a no brainer!


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## maple1 (Mar 7, 2021)

DBoon said:


> The units that operate in very cold temperatures are typically much less efficient overall, perhaps by a factor of 1.5. If you already have something else as backup heat (besides your woodstove), then I think it would make the most sense to install a unit that operates at higher outdoor temperatures and just switch to the other backup heat source as needed below that temperature.



I am not following. Units rated for colder temps should be more efficient? Isn't that why they can rate for lower temps - increased efficiency?


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## DBoon (Mar 12, 2021)

Hyperheat and similar units are rated for efficient operation, e.g., a  COP of 2.5 or 3,  at lower temperatures, e.g., -5 degrees F. But hyperheat-type units may have a COP of only 3 at 40 degrees or so. A unit incapable of operating or generating heat at -5 degrees F may provide COPs of 4 or 5 at 40 degrees F.


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## MapleHill (Mar 12, 2021)

Thanks for that info.  In the end, I decided to go for the newest generation of HyperHeat (FS series).  I decided that if I'm going to be spending for a backup heat source, it's worth getting one that can make heat in low temps.


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## Brian26 (Mar 12, 2021)

DBoon said:


> Hyperheat and similar units are rated for efficient operation, e.g., a  COP of 2.5 or 3,  at lower temperatures, e.g., -5 degrees F. But hyperheat-type units may have a COP of only 3 at 40 degrees or so. A unit incapable of operating or generating heat at -5 degrees F may provide COPs of 4 or 5 at 40 degrees F.



This is very true. If you don't plan on operating the unit at extremely low temperatures its better to get a non hyper heat version.


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## begreen (Mar 12, 2021)

Brian26 said:


> This is very true. If you don't plan on operating the unit at extremely low temperatures its better to get a non hyper heat version.


Agreed. The COP at 17º is more meaningful for our region.


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## Woodspliter (Mar 12, 2021)

What is the cop comparison of let's say the fs 9k btu and the rating of the equivalent non hyper heat?


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## DBoon (Mar 13, 2021)

Woodspliter said:


> What is the cop comparison of let's say the fs 9k btu and the rating of the equivalent non hyper heat?


It's been a while since I've done these calculations, but basically you have to find the manual that includes the performance characteristics at different operating temperatures (this isn't widely available - will take some internet sleuthing), and then do your own COP calculation (output/input). Usually, they have output in BTUs and input in Watts, so you have to watts to watt hours and then convert BTUs to watt hours at 3414 BTU/kWh.


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## UpStateNY (Mar 25, 2021)

Up here in NY state I think a COP of only 3 at 40 degrees is just fine.  Really how much heat do you need to generate at 40 degrees.  Its been around 30 to 50 degrees this last week and I see almost no change in my  electric usage using my -15 degree 24K multi heat pump compared to previous week using propane boiler for heat.


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## UpStateNY (Apr 13, 2021)

At 30° to 50° F  my heat pumps are heating the top floor of 1200 sq feet for less than 10kwh per day.  At $0.15 per kwh that is less than $1.50 a day for heat using the mini-split ductless.  At those temps most of the time we heat with just the single 24K heat pump using two heads in living and dining rooms.    The other 24k heat pump for bedrooms is used infrequently for heating.

Less than 30° we use propane boiler.


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## maple1 (Apr 14, 2021)

I'm ok with using mine down to -10c. Depending how windy it is outside.


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## Woodspliter (Apr 15, 2021)

So apologize for the late update. Its been a couple weeks since the install everything been installed.  Its all working beautifully.


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