# How do you attach a stove pipe to a old stove?



## Cowboy Billy (Dec 29, 2008)

This might be a stupid question. But how do you hood a round stove pipe to a old stove that has a oval rather than round opening? Do you just take a round pipe and bend it or do you need a adapter pipe?

I measured around the outside of the flange of the stove and came up with 19 inches would that be a 6" pipe? And if I need a adapter where should I look for one. 


Here is the stove I hope to use at the farm latter this week.







Thanks for any help.

Billy


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## LLigetfa (Dec 29, 2008)

Yes, a 6 inch pipe.  Just flex it into an oval.


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## savageactor7 (Dec 29, 2008)

LLigetfa does the crimped end still face down and fit inside that collar? Never saw one like that before.


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## Cowboy Billy (Dec 29, 2008)

Thanks LLigetfa. 

I am going to put that stove in a room that attaches to our travel trailer 350 miles north of where I live. The pipe is already up there. And I did not want to be there and not be able to use it.

Savageactor7

That stove is a Round Oak #16. Its not exactly new!! The last patten date I can find on it is Feb 11 1873. I almost don't want to use it as it is a antique. But then again it was made to be used. And I don't have to worry about it being highly efficient as it is in a 120 acres of woods.


Billy


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## LLigetfa (Dec 29, 2008)

savageactor7 said:
			
		

> LLigetfa does the crimped end still face down and fit inside that collar? Never saw one like that before.


No, the crimped end goes up.  The straight pipe slips over that collar.


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## pen (Dec 29, 2008)

I and I am sure others would like to see that stove installed.  Take a pic or two and post it in the Perfect Picture Forum.

pen


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## LLigetfa (Dec 29, 2008)

If you want to run your stovepipe upside down, that is with crimps pointing toward the stove to keep the liquid creosote inside the pipe, you need to use a section of gender changer (female - female) pipe.


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## savageactor7 (Dec 29, 2008)

LLigetfa said:
			
		

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Right that's how it looked to me as it would fit too. Been a long time but for some reason I had it in my head the the crimped end of single wall pipe always went down....temp brain lock I guess. Thanks for the heads up.


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## Todd (Dec 29, 2008)

savageactor7 said:
			
		

> LLigetfa said:
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Your right savage, the crimped end or male end should always go down. You won't be able to fit that 6" pipe over the stove collar. There are oval to round adapters out there.


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## Todd (Dec 29, 2008)

Cowboy Billy said:
			
		

> Thanks LLigetfa.
> 
> I am going to put that stove in a room that attaches to our travel trailer 350 miles north of where I live. The pipe is already up there. And I did not want to be there and not be able to use it.
> 
> ...



Be aware that these old stoves aren't UL listed and require large clearances to combustibles like 36" I believe? Don't want you to burn down your trailer.


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## Peter B. (Dec 29, 2008)

Cowboy Billy:

As LLigetfa first suggested, you may want to make the length of pipe at the stove top female-female... and run the rest of the pipe crimped end down.  The 6" pipe should work fine... (an adaptor probably isn't needed, and the only ones I've seen are female at the stove end anyway).

(Edit: Actually, after looking at the photo again, an adaptor may be necessary... my stove collar has more of a taper to it, and 6" pipe fits fine, but...)

That's how I've got it on my own Round Oak, but I don't have any problems with liquid creosote with my current set up.

Before ovalling the pipe, it helps to pinch the lower locking seam tightly with pliers or a vise (so it doesn't split open), and bend it out slightly (so that it doesn't hang up on the stove collar).

I think you're likely to have one 'ell of a time trying to crimp the pipe to fit inside the stove collar.

You should definitely install a manual flue damper as well... you'll need it.

Nice stove by the way... you might want to go here...

http://www.swmich.edu/museum/guide.php

... to ID your Round Oak's model and year of manufacture.

Good Luck.

Peter B.

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## gpcollen1 (Dec 29, 2008)

There are adapters for oval connections and oval pipe ya know.


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## LLigetfa (Dec 29, 2008)

Don't listen to the noobs.  A 6 inch single wall stovepipe will squeeze oval and fit over that collar perfectly.  Old timer stoves were intended to have crimped ends going up and SS chimney adaptors were designed to accept the crimped end.  That said, people sometimes reversed it, with a male-male piece at the top and a female-female piece at the stove.

They do make oval to round adapters for double wall pipe for obvious reasons.


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## savageactor7 (Dec 29, 2008)

LLigetfa I'm pretty sure Cowboy could manipulate the male end down the inside of that collar...after he crimped up the seams. But fitting it around the collar ...I dunno if that would be secure enough as is.

Those old smoke dragons drafted so well you could drill a 1/4 in hole threw the pipe and no smoke would leak out...so having the crimped end down isn't a show stopper.

 From the looks of the stove it looks like there was some kind of collar around it but the more I think about it the crimped/male end would penetrate farther into the firebox and be the safer thing to do. What do you think?

Also like was already mentioned an inline damper is required...but while the stove is burning you never, ever close it more than 45*.


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## LLigetfa (Dec 29, 2008)

On those old stoves, the stovepipe was just held in place by gravity and a friction fit.  If you look at how thick that collar is, you can see that a crimped end would not fit inside it.  The different colour of rust on the outside of the collar indicated the old pipe was on the outside which is how all those old stoves were designed.  As I mentioned, they were designed for a friction fit, so you had to hammer the seam flat to fit it over.  It also made it easier to put the pipe on if you first held it under your arm and ran a screwdriver's round shank around the inside of the pipe, curling and stretching it out slightly.  It was common practice to do that to every female end to ease assembly.


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## Peter B. (Dec 29, 2008)

What's more, if the black pipe sections are screwed together (as they should be by at least one 'placeholder' screw per joint) and whatever pipe above is (at some point) rigidly secured, the pipe at the stove collar isn't likely to 'hop off'... or at least it's never happened to me in 25+ years.

Peter B.

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## LLigetfa (Dec 29, 2008)

I've seen stovepipe held up with picture wire.


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## Peter B. (Dec 29, 2008)

LLigetfa said:
			
		

> I've seen stovepipe held up with picture wire.



Point taken....

Not to split hairs, but in the case of a wholly insecure stovepipe 'suspension', whether the joint at the stove collar was male or female would matter not at all.

Peter B.

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## Cowboy Billy (Dec 29, 2008)

Thanks Pen I'll do that!

Thanks Todd

Thats some good info!! The stove will be in 12'x16' room that attaches to the trailer by a 3' long hallway. 

Thanks again LLigetfa

Those are some great tips. We still have to get the beams in place and leveled up and the room built. And as the temps are running from 9 at nite to 25 in the day up there right now. We want to get the stove fired up as soon as the roof is on so we can warm up as we finish the siding and installing the windows and doors.

Thanks Peter B

I looked at the link real quick. I think its neat that the stove was built in michigan and that it will be used again here! Thanks for the tips I am sure they will help me out! The damper is in the truck and ready to go. 

Thanks Savageactor7

I think I will get it going as well as I can for now. But this summer I might try to weld a inner sleeve into the pipe that will direct any creosote from the pipe into the stove.

Billy


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## Cowboy Billy (Jan 9, 2009)

Thanks for all the help. Just wanted to update ya and let you know my lack of progress.

My brother his 7 yr old son and I went to the farm. We left here at 1:00am so we would get there at day break. It was supposed to be a low of 2 Deg it was -9 when we got there. Had to snowshoe in over 1/4 mile to the trailer. Nothing would start. Finally got a tractor running and was using that to jump start the dozer it still would not start then the tractor blew up and would not run. Dozer is parked infront of the shed with the generator so we cannot open the doors. Took off some of the siding so we could start the generator. Got the fourwheeler running but the snow was too deep to plow with it. And I got it stuck halfway to where we had to park the truck. After 6 hrs finally got the dozer started and pushed the snow off of the road and got the fourwheeler out just before dark. Got the loader running and pushed the truck and trailer part way up the hill and the fuel filter on that plugged up from the cold and it quit running on the road. Got the truck to the top of the hill and got it stuck again. Had to take the dozer and pull it back up the road and park it in the dark with no head lights on either the loader or dozer. Pulled the truck and trailer back and got it turned around and pointed down hill so we could drive it out. It had only got up to 5 deg all day. I looked at my brother and said for the first time ever I want to go home and he said he did too. Went to bed at 8:30 pm dead tired and sore new years eve after only being able to get the trailer to 55 deg inside. New Years day we loaded up came home I sloped on the ice and bruised a rib and am just feeling better now.

Oh well I will wait until the snow is off this spring. Looking forward to getting everything setup so I can spend enjoyable time up there next winter. I knew I was pushing too hard to get what I wanted to get done. But you don't know until you try. 

Billy


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