# Outside chimney install question (through eave?)



## snosurfa7 (Aug 13, 2013)

Any benefit going through the eave of the roof with class A chimney pipe versus or just running an extra foot straight out of the house (is this possible) and then straight up (avoiding the eave altogether)?


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## webby3650 (Aug 13, 2013)

It's definitely possible to avoid going through the eave. I think it's best to avoid it if there is a gutter involved, otherwise, I would rather box in the eave and keep the chimney tucked in closer. Alot of Tee support brackets don't allow you to extend out very far though. Excel has an extended Tee support that works really well in this situation.


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## akbear (Aug 14, 2013)

My solution to that problem was to put down a concrete pad, stack cinder blocks capped with patio blocks on that and 4x6 treated timbers lagged to the building (each column lagged and heads countersunk and outer column lagged together.  The cinderblock stack certainly wasn't necessary, but rather a compromise of what I had on hand and still wanting at least one level of blocks to deter carpenter ants).  At some point I'll also cap the timbers with some metal flashing.  For the wall brace, since I have log siding I used utility pole stand-offs and a piece of oak 2x2 secured with 1 1/2" conduit brackets for the wall band to attach to (rather than trying to cut a filler to attach to the fascia boards)


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## begreen (Aug 14, 2013)

One issue you may run into is that the standard brackets are not long enough. That will require a custom solution.


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## Highbeam (Aug 14, 2013)

In snow country I would be afraid of the snow ripping that thing off the side of your home.

I vote for going through the eave. It won't leak if it is done properly.

Ideally, you would stay inside the home and go vertical instead of an "out and up" job.


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## blades (Aug 14, 2013)

The question alluded to is why can you not go straight up. Horizontal run with no vertical gain are very poor installs.2 story home ? rooms above? ect.


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## Backwoods Savage (Aug 14, 2013)

If you do got out further from the house, be aware you need some rise in that horizontal section. A minimum rise of 1/4" per foot of horizontal. 1/2" is even better.


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## Backwoods Savage (Aug 14, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> In snow country I would be afraid of the snow ripping that thing off the side of your home.
> 
> I vote for going through the eave. It won't leak if it is done properly.
> 
> Ideally, you would stay inside the home and go vertical instead of an "out and up" job.


 
Snow does not stick to our chimney because the warm chimney melts it as soon as it hits.


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## Highbeam (Aug 14, 2013)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Snow does not stick to our chimney because the warm chimney melts it as soon as it hits.


 
I was actually concerned with the snow sliding off of the roof.


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## Backwoods Savage (Aug 14, 2013)

Got ya. We don't have that problem either.


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## webby3650 (Aug 14, 2013)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Got ya. We don't have that problem either.


 
We have it here on metal roofs! This spring I had to go back to a job because something "didn't look right". I found that snow had slid down a 6 pitch roof, it pulled the storm collar off and dented the flashing. I was shocked that it happened.


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## DexterDay (Aug 14, 2013)

I chose to not go through the eave. I went out 1 extra ft. Made custom brackets and all is wel. 18 ft of Class A outside and I have almost 4ft of Double wall in the basement (very) before 4 ft of horizontal (1/4" rise per ft).


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## snosurfa7 (Aug 16, 2013)

Thanks for all the replies! Two story house, rooms above not to mention radiant heat in the floors makes cutting through levels even more difficult. Doable but beyond my skill level and too costly to contract out. I know, my old house I was able to keep it all inside a little worried about the draft but it will be nice to be able to clean it from the tee outside at ground level.

I think the eave is too narrow to fit a chimney pipe with the appropriate clearances. 

So would it really draft better/make a difference if I avoided the extra horizontal foot and instead installed an elbow to get around the eave?


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## DexterDay (Aug 16, 2013)

If your going up 2 stories? Then you should have a considerable amount of Class A outside?  The extra foot wouldn't matter. Never a had a bit of smoke when opening the door to reload. Ever. Even when I had just 15' outside (only used 5 sections at 1st) I added the 6th section to get 18' of Class A outside. I was just over the proper clearance with 15'. Now it is over my head and I remove the top 3 section with cap and sweep down from there. This allows me to clean the top section well and no messing with the cap (hard to get off of)


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## webby3650 (Aug 16, 2013)

snosurfa7 said:


> So would it really draft better/make a difference if I avoided the extra horizontal foot and instead installed an elbow to get around the eave?


Most chimney manufacturers don't allow elbows outside of the envelope of the structure. I can't tell you why! There is no difference to me, at least out in the open it can be inspected!


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## Hogwildz (Aug 17, 2013)

Is that regular black stove piping for the thimble and "T"?
If so, you may want to consider Class A there also.


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## DexterDay (Aug 18, 2013)

Hogwildz said:


> Is that regular black stove piping for the thimble and "T"?
> If so, you may want to consider Class A there also.



Thats Class A. It was Galvanized.  Didnt like the look of it, with the plants being larger now, you cant hardly see it anyway, so I should have just left it alone. I was just worried about the look from the road. 

Its Dura Plus HT. So it's 10" O.D., It would take some serious "Rigging" to connect the Double wall in the basement, to a large piece of single wall, then to the Class A. Im sure someone, somewhere has done it. But even using all the proper supplied parts, it was still a Giant PITA!!

How is your 30 install coming? Your addition and renovation work was beautiful.  Its gonna look good in there with that sexy steel stove.


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## Highbeam (Aug 18, 2013)

snosurfa7 said:


> I think the eave is too narrow to fit a chimney pipe with the appropriate clearances.
> 
> So would it really draft better/make a difference if I avoided the extra horizontal foot and instead installed an elbow to get around the eave?


 
With this new information, and especially if you are on a gable end, go out and up with a vertical class A pipe. Do not add bends outside to jockey around the roof but hold the whole thing at the same offset from the wall as dexter's photos show.

Use the fewest amount of the longest sections you can buy, usually four footers, to minimize the chance of the pipe looking crooked and snaking up the wall. Only go as high above the roofline as required to meet the 10/2/3 rule. 

It will be nice to clean from below but if you leave that stupid screen in the cap then you still need to be able to get there to clean it out.

Oh and be sure that the unused bottom of the tee is capped tightly.


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## Hogwildz (Aug 18, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> Thats Class A. It was Galvanized. Didnt like the look of it, with the plants being larger now, you cant hardly see it anyway, so I should have just left it alone. I was just worried about the look from the road.
> 
> Its Dura Plus HT. So it's 10" O.D., It would take some serious "Rigging" to connect the Double wall in the basement, to a large piece of single wall, then to the Class A. Im sure someone, somewhere has done it. But even using all the proper supplied parts, it was still a Giant PITA!!
> 
> ...


Addition is coming along. 7 years now, slow and steady. Just hung the new bedroom door tonight.
Being all wood is tedious. Lots of clear coat, and the rim is all stained Red Oak, then 2 coats clear, then sand, then another 2 coats clear. Only 2 coats per day per directions. So it is basically a weekend to sand, stain, coat2x, sand, coat 2 more times, then install. Turning out real nice though, and I'm in no rush.
The 30 is going to add some serious heat, along with the Summit, I should be getting a tan in the winter.


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