# Pellet stove won't start (St. Croix-Afton Bay)   Any help is Apreciated



## Tim469 (Oct 16, 2012)

When I start it (on manual) the fans come on,  it feeds the burn box with pellets, then the auger stops all fans shut down and the #2 & #3 lights blink simultaneously.  From the time I push start until the lights start to blink and everything stops and the control board won't respond is about 45 -60 seconds.  The pellets don't ignite.  The ignitor is hot (presumably not for enough time to ignite).
The manual indicates this is a high limit switch problem.  I've reset the switch, no change. By-passed the switch with a jumper, no change.
Now, Ive taken the stove outside and completely cleaned it (with brush, scraper, vacuum and an air compressor)- All ash traps, air intake path, exhaust path, behind the burn box, removed and cleaned both fans. The seals are in good repair. all doors and trap covers replaced and closed. I've by-passed the high limit switch, the vacuum switch, checked all the wiring connectors, cleaned the control board ground, ensured the control board is securely  in place (fuse is good). I've checked the wires and voltage (at the switch and at the pin out on the control board) for the hi-limit, vacuum and proof of fire switches.
I took the proof of fire switch off and cleaned the contact area on the switch and fan.
I've by-passed the proof of fire switch.  When I did this, It follows the same procedure as above except, the combustion/exhaust fan remains on after the #2 & #3 lights blink (and the auger stops and the ignitor no longer heats).
I have by passed the switches individually and simultaneously.  I am at a loss as to what the problem is.
It does not seem to be completing a full start up cycle.  But, since it drops pellets and the ignitor begins to heat, it has apparently passed the vacuum check.  Then after approximately an additional 30 seconds it shuts down (minutes before the proof of fire check should occur).
Any suggestions are welcome.  -  Thank you


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 16, 2012)

Have you cleaned your venting including the termination cap? Also is your damper open about a pencil's width? Are all of your cleaning rods fully inserted in the stove, and does your versa grate move?

Now about the flashing lights there is no diagnostic indication that uses 2 leds so which of the lights is actually flashing.


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## woodsman23 (Oct 16, 2012)

exhaust fan is shot..... It may be running but not as it should, spray some oil in the motor area and see if it helps.


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## imacman (Oct 16, 2012)

As Smokey says, it sounds like there is a blockage in the stove or exhaust system.  Not enough vacuum to close the vacuum switch and therefore the auger won't turn.


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## wwert (Oct 16, 2012)

Vacuum test was not necessarily completed. Stove could even light and then shut down with number 2 light flashing. I agree with both answers above, my guess is clogged chimney. Does exhaust fan come on when it starts up?


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## mnkywrnch (Oct 16, 2012)

The #2 and three lights flashing are for a fault in the high limit switch circuit,you said that you bypassed the high limit switch with the same results it can't be the room air blower because the stove never starts and so the the stoves not overheating from a weak blower,the only other thing it could be is the control panel falsely thinking the stoves overheating when it isn't.


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## mnkywrnch (Oct 16, 2012)

imacman said:


> As Smokey says, it sounds like there is a blockage in the stove or exhaust system.  Not enough vacuum to close the vacuum switch and therefore the auger won't turn.


He did say it was feeding pellets which tells me the vacuum switch is closing.


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## imacman (Oct 16, 2012)

mnkywrnch said:


> He did say it was feeding pellets which tells me the vacuum switch is closing.


But he then states the auger stops....typical of pellet stoves....the auger will work for a little, then stop if vac switch stays open.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 16, 2012)

Need answers to the questions, it very well could be a shot combustion blower, however I reserve judgment. I've seen stoves that had their combustion blowers just cleaned actually fail to reach speed due to crud getting into the the area around the shaft and if they sit for a bit of time it can gum up.

BTW: We just had a 4.6 earthquake 19.2 miles by road from me.


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## mnkywrnch (Oct 16, 2012)

imacman said:


> But he then states the auger stops....typical of pellet stoves....the auger will work for a little, then stop if vac switch stays open.[/ The auger on his Stove will not work with a open vac switch...


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## papa bears stove (Oct 16, 2012)

Is the stove shutting down after the convection fan comes on? Does the convection fan ever come on?  Where is the stove installed? Did you try starting the stove when you had it off the chimney and if so did you have the same fault?


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## bbfarm (Oct 17, 2012)

I agree with smokey, try cleaning your vent 1st. 

When this happened to our afton bay last year it turned out to be the exhaust fan.  https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/im-cold-and-mad.83133/


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

FIRST,  I want to thank you all for taking the time to read and reply to my post.
I am going to go thru them individually and have another look at the stove.

In general, I don't think it's a venting or intake air issue.  We took the stove out on the deck to completely clean it with the vacuum, compressor, wire and scrapers;  and have since been testing it outside with just 18" of straight pipe off the rear of the stove and the combustion intake open right at the stove.  I understand the combustion air may not be optimized, but I would still expect it to light, not shut down and stop the ignition process.


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> Have you cleaned your venting including the termination cap? Also is your damper open about a pencil's width? Are all of your cleaning rods fully inserted in the stove, and does your versa grate move?
> 
> Now about the flashing lights there is no diagnostic indication that uses 2 leds so which of the lights is actually flashing.


 
Yes, we cleaned the vents, and are currently testing it outside without the vent pipe.  All the rods are fully inserted. The versa grate moves.
The Afton Bay operations manual online (pg. 7) states that the simultaneous blinking of lights 2 & 3 is the error message for a high limit switch issue.
But, I've by passed the switch with a jumper with the same results, Plus the stove never heats up.


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

imacman said:


> As Smokey says, it sounds like there is a blockage in the stove or exhaust system. Not enough vacuum to close the vacuum switch and therefore the auger won't turn.


 I don't think there is a blockage.  I've cleaned the stove.  Currently testing without the vent connected.  Plus,  I've by passed the vacuum switch with a jumper (1. before pressing start and   2. pressing start and waiting 15 seconds to connect the jumper).  I've checked the voltage at the switch and at the control board (it's 120v one side only).
Plus in addition to running it as is, I've tried augmenting both intake and exhaust (one at a time) by blowing air in the intake and sucking thru the exhaust with a vacuum.


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

imacman said:


> As Smokey says, it sounds like there is a blockage in the stove or exhaust system. Not enough vacuum to close the vacuum switch and therefore the auger won't turn.


I've by-passed the switch and augmented the exhaust (see other replies) and the auger fills the burn basket with pellets  before it goes into shutdown.


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

wwert said:


> Vacuum test was not necessarily completed. Stove could even light and then shut down with number 2 light flashing. I agree with both answers above, my guess is clogged chimney. Does exhaust fan come on when it starts up?


Yes the fan comes on and I've eliminated the chimney for testing.


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

mnkywrnch said:


> The #2 and three lights flashing are for a fault in the high limit switch circuit,you said that you bypassed the high limit switch with the same results it can't be the room air blower because the stove never starts and so the the stoves not overheating from a weak blower,the only other thing it could be is the control panel falsely thinking the stoves overheating when it isn't.


I do think this could be the problem but haven't found any way to do a general diagnostic on the control board or any way to "reset" the board.  I have checked the pinouts on the board for the Vacuum Switch (5 volts one side only), Proof of Fire switch (5 volts one side only), and High limit switch (120 volts one side only).  The tech manual says 5 volts for the vacuum and proof of fire, but doesn't indicate the voltage for the High limit. Don't know what to do next.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 17, 2012)

Page 7 of the operations manual states the stove will complete a safety shutdown with a flashing #2 for a vacuum fault and complete a safety shutdown with a flashing #3 for a high limit fault or a POF failure.  

The flashing number three can actually indicate the following as the cause of the safety shutdown.

1: Out of fuel.
2. High Limit Trip (this is because there will be no fuel and the POF will open).
3. Failure to present POF within start window (the POF is still open after the start window).

In short the proof of fire switch fails to close or isn't closed (this can be the case for a number of reasons most of which have nothing to do with a high temperature issue).

The controller presents the flashing number two when the vacuum switch is not closed when polled during the start up window or a period of time has passed in which the vacuum switch hasn't closed that exceeds the normal daily maintenance time allotment window (that is the amount of time needed to have the door open to do pot scrapping etc ... ).

The flashing number two can actually indicate the following as the cause of the safety shutdown.

1. Combustion blower issue.
2. Ash in the venting.
3. Ash in the vacuum tubing.
4. Ash in the barb the vacuum tubing attaches to at the stove end.
5. Incorrectly set damper.
6. Failing stove gaskets.
7. The door is open for too long a period of time.
8. A bad vacuum switch.

Most controllers can only present one error indication and page seven of the operations manual does not indicate the 2 & 3 flashing at the same time exists as an error indication.

So again I ask which of the leds is actually flashing and yes it can appear more than one is looking through that heat level indicator.  I know because the controller on your stove is made by the same folks who made the one on my stove.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 17, 2012)

Does your igniter actually start a fire?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 17, 2012)

Reseting the board requires that you merely unplug the stove wait a little while and plug it back in.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 17, 2012)

Now I hope you are aware of the hard to clean area in the St. Croix stoves.  Some times it takes a lot of huffing and puffing with a compressor or leaf blower in vacuum mode to clean it out or opening up the combustion blower cavity and going back towards the firebox with a brush and vacuum..


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

Tim469 said:


> I don't think there is a blockage. I've cleaned the stove. Currently testing without the vent connected. Plus, I've by passed the vacuum switch with a jumper (1. before pressing start and 2. pressing start and waiting 15 seconds to connect the jumper). I've checked the voltage at the switch and at the control board (it's 120v one side only).
> Plus in addition to running it as is, I've tried augmenting both intake and exhaust (one at a time) by blowing air in the intake and sucking thru the exhaust with a vacuum.


Sorry, I meant to say 5 volts one side only.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 17, 2012)

Put the stove back to normal, reset the controller, and try a normal start.

Report back exactly what shows for lights on the control panel.


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> Page 7 of the operations manual states the stove will complete a safety shutdown with a flashing #2 for a vacuum fault and complete a safety shutdown with a flashing #3 for a high limit fault or a POF failure.
> 
> The flashing number three can actually indicate the following as the cause of the safety shutdown.
> 
> ...


Smokey, Thank you for your time and thoughtful reply.  It is the 2 & 3 lights together, see cut and paste message from manual:
"The Diagnostic Lights flash as follows:
...
2. The High Limit switch. This sensor will
sense if the unit reaches temperatures that are
too high for normal operation. If this happens
the Auger will quit feeding and the #2 and #3
LED lights will flash simultaneously. (See
Figure 2 on Page 5 and point 4 on page 16)"  from page 7 of the manual I downloaded  for St. Croix Afton Bay Operation and Maintenance.

The hopper is full of fuel.  I spent a good 2-3 hours cleaning the stoves hard to reach areas.  cleared the vacuum tube.  By passed the vacuum switch with a jumper (which should work if the switch was bad because it is a normally open switch) The voltage to the switch is correct, 5 V one side only at the control board pins.
Because the stove goes into safety shut down in 45 to 75 seconds, I don't think the proof of fire switch should have been polled yet.

    I have rechecked the high limit switch and I think it is a problem between the switch and the control board.  The high limit switch is a normally closed switch and at the control board only one pin to the switch should have voltage (line voltage).  At the switch only one wire has voltage (120V) when they are not connected to the switch. But when connected the circuit completes.  I hit the reset button on the switch but it won't reset to a closed position.  So I have a bad high limit switch, one problem identified.  What I don't understand is why I can't get the stove to light when I try to bypass the switch.  Because it is a normally closed switch I thought if I disconnect it the board would sense it as a operational closed switch - didn't work, same error message.  Then I tried to light to light it while holding the reset button during startup (which does close the switch, I kept a voltmeter on it) still didn't work.
    I'm ordering a new switch, I wonder if there is another problem.


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

Tim469 said:


> Smokey, Thank you for your time and thoughtful reply. It is the 2 & 3 lights together, see cut and paste message from manual:
> "The Diagnostic Lights flash as follows:
> ...
> 2. The High Limit switch. This sensor will
> ...


SORRY, the electronics is my weak area, I  said all that backwards. The switch is operating properly for a normally closed circuit. It's a complete circuit and opens if it senses hi temp. Nothing wrong at the switch, nothing wrong at the board.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 17, 2012)

What follows is the text from the Afton Bay Operations and Maintenance Manual at Eventemp's site.

Right hand column of page six and all of page seven.

Can you post an image of the control panel in the manual you are using.



2. The Vacuum switch. For the stove to
operate correctly the firebox needs to be
sealed. During the first 30 seconds after the
stove has been turned on the control board
will check to see if the switch senses negative
pressure in the stove. If there is no negative
pressure, the stove will go into “Safety
shutdown”. Once the stove completes the
safety shutdown the #2 LED will start
blinking.
Safety Features
1. ”High Limit” switch”, an overheat safety
switch will shut off the fuel feed if the stove
reaches a temperature above normal
operating temperature. This is a manual
reset High Limit switch. There is no
diagnostic light associated with this switch.
When this switch shuts the stove down the
control board will be in “Internal Alarm”.
Eventually the P.O.F. switch drops out and
the #3 LED will start blinking. The switch
will need to be manually reset. For this
reason it would be sensible to check this
switch first any time the #3 diagnostic LED
is blinking. When the High limit switch
causes a shutdown, the problem in the stove
must be diagnosed before the stove is put
back in service, (Defective room fan, dirty
room fan, defective high limit switch or
possibly a bad control board)
2.
 Proof of Fire switch also called the
P.O.F. This senses the temperature rise in the
exhaust system. The switch is normally open
and closes the circuit at 110 degrees. The
stove will shut down if temperatures above
110 degrees F are not sensed during start up
or drop below 110 degrees during normal
operation.
3. Vacuum switch also called the Negative
pressure switch. When the stove is turned on
the exhaust fan will create a negative
pressure in the firebox. The control board
continually checks to see if negative pressure
Pageis present during operation of the stove. If the
exhaust venting system becomes clogged or
obstructed, the firebox door or ash pan door are
left open or the exhaust fan quits working the
control board will go into “Safety shutdown”.
There is a 90 second window to allow for
cleaning the glass and emptying the ashpan
before then stove shuts down. This is sufficient
for the daily maintenance.
The St. Croix pellets stove has been Safety
Tested by an accredited, independent
laboratory.
WARNING: These safety features are
designed to protect life and property.
Bypassing these features voids all warranties
and the safety listing of the stove.
Shutting The Stove Off (Refer Figure 2)
1. Press the ON/OFF switch (2) to turn off the
auger feed system; the fire will go out in a few
minutes.
2. The Room Air Fan and the Combustion
Exhaust Fan will continue to run until the P.O.F.
switch drops out. Meanwhile the Self-Cleaning
Grate continues to run at normal operating
speed. When the P.O.F. switch drops out the
Room Air Fan, Combustion Exhaust Fan and
the Self-Cleaning Grate Motor will turn off.
3. NEVER unplug the stove to shut it off.
Doing so may cause a significant amount of
smoke to enter the room.
7


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 17, 2012)

Now I would start looking at the combustion blower overloading (it is draging) the control board or a fubar controller.

Line voltage is switched through the high limit switch it is sort of a dead man switch for the stove.  Never reset that switch with the stove plugged in, if the auger turns at all it can not be the high limit.


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

imacman said:


> But he then states the auger stops....typical of pellet stoves....the auger will work for a little, then stop if vac switch stays open.


I held the voltmeter on it during startup.  The switch closed and did not open again until after it shutdown.


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> What follows is the text from the Afton Bay Operations and Maintenance Manual at Eventemp's site.
> 
> Right hand column of page six and all of page seven.
> 
> ...


I couldn't paste the image  I'll try to post one for you.  It's not the current board.  My stove was manufactured in 2005.  It has the 5 LED lights for heat level on the left, and on the right it has feed trim, draft trim, auger, and ON/OFF with smart stat/t-stat/manual toggle at the top.  I know it's not available anymore, they have a replacement part #.


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

Tim469 said:


> I couldn't paste the image I'll try to post one for you. It's not the current board. My stove was manufactured in 2005. It has the 5 LED lights for heat level on the left, and on the right it has feed trim, draft trim, auger, and ON/OFF with smart stat/t-stat/manual toggle at the top. I know it's not available anymore, they have a replacement part #.


Yeah, its not the same manually, similar but not the same one.  The one I have is older.


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> Put the stove back to normal, reset the controller, and try a normal start.
> 
> Report back exactly what shows for lights on the control panel.


Its all back with all switches connected.  I tried a couple of starts with the voltmeter on the switches.  No changes from the originally explained shutdown.  The vacuum switch opened on startup and didn't close again until after shutdown.  The high limit switch never opened, remained closed the whole time. It just shuts down after about 60 seconds and blinks the error message.


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

wwert said:


> Vacuum test was not necessarily completed. Stove could even light and then shut down with number 2 light flashing. I agree with both answers above, my guess is clogged chimney. Does exhaust fan come on when it starts up?


vacuum test is passed according to voltage at the switch.  Both fans come on at startup


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 17, 2012)

Ah the vacuum switch opened on start up it should close.  Is your vacuum switch by any chance double ported or does it have more than two terminals?


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

papa bears stove said:


> Is the stove shutting down after the convection fan comes on? Does the convection fan ever come on? Where is the stove installed? Did you try starting the stove when you had it off the chimney and if so did you have the same fault?


been testing on the deck with no chimney, same error, both fans come on.


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> Ah the vacuum switch opened on start up it should close. Is your vacuum switch by any chance double ported or does it have more than two terminals?


Before startup the switch is closed, when I push startup it opens, after shutdown it closes.  The electrical diagram says normally open,  I figure that means open when it senses vacuum?


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> Does your igniter actually start a fire?


no stove doesn't run long enough


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 17, 2012)

No that means open when nothing is going on.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 17, 2012)

Now does your stoves vacuum switch have two ports or more than two terminals?


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> No that means open when nothing is going on.


OK so vacuum is bad


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

Tim469 said:


> OK so vacuum is bad


I thought by using a jumper in place of the switch I could bypass it for diagnosis, but I just checked the voltage at the control board while bypassing the switch and the circuit wont close with like that.  So it may just be a bad vacuum switch.  I'm going to replace that and hope for the best.  Thanks for your assistance.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 17, 2012)

Don't know some vacuum switches can be setup to be N/O or N/C.  That is why I asked if your switch hd two ports or more than two terminals.  Those can be installed wrong and only need to switch ports or the terminal the controller is connected to.

The switch could be just fine just installed incorrectly.


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> Now does your stoves vacuum switch have two ports or more than two terminals?


No just 2 terminals and 1 port


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 17, 2012)

Ok, now do us all a favor, jumper that switch and then press start on the stove.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 17, 2012)

I want a blow by blow description of what happens.


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## Tim469 (Oct 17, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> Don't know some vacuum switches can be setup to be N/O or N/C. That is why I asked if your switch hd two ports or more than two terminals. Those can be installed wrong and only need to switch ports or the terminal the controller is connected to.
> 
> The switch could be just fine just installed incorrectly.


I had thought of that, so I've always tested it twice with the wires attached both ways.  I had just assumed that I could jump the switch, but since the circuit wont close with the jumper attached, but will with the switch attached there must be some safety mechanism built in to prevent operating without the switch


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## heat seeker (Oct 17, 2012)

Agree - the vacuum switch should close to run the stove. If it doesn't close on startup, the stove shuts down, the auger never turns, and the #2 light blinks.

The POF switch can be jumped with the stove off (but plugged in) , and the blowers (both) should run - that's how I clean my stove without dust getting into the house.

The overtemp switch is normally closed, so jumping it should bypass it and allow the stove to run.  If it's tripped, defective, or has bad wiring, the #2 & #3 lights blink.

The manual mentions checking the connectors at the control board to make sure they are fully seated, _and that the pins are making contact. _If they mention it in the manual, it must have been a problem.

If you've jumped the overtemp switch, and the stove still shows #2 and #3 lights blinking, you have bad wiring, bad connections, or a bad control board, IMO.

Airflow problems will show up as a #2 light.

Not much more to it than that, these stoves are pretty simple. Just my 2¢.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 17, 2012)

The jumper goes between those two terminals it hooks one to the other and that is a closed switch.


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## mnkywrnch (Oct 17, 2012)

Have you tried a resistance check of the wires from the high limit switch to the control board?Im still leaning to the control board being bad,from all the tests you've performed so far.


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## mnkywrnch (Oct 17, 2012)

heat seeker said:


> Agree - the vacuum switch should close to run the stove. If it doesn't close on startup, the stove shuts down, the auger never turns, and the #2 light blinks.
> 
> The POF switch can be jumped with the stove off (but plugged in) , and the blowers (both) should run - that's how I clean my stove without dust getting into the house.
> 
> ...


X2fully agree!


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 17, 2012)

Tim469 said:


> I had thought of that, so I've always tested it twice with the wires attached both ways. I had just assumed that I could jump the switch, but since the circuit wont close with the jumper attached, but will with the switch attached there must be some safety mechanism built in to prevent operating without the switch


 
There is none it is a simple diaphragm operated mechanical switch. The safety is that the stove will not operate if the switch is open the jumper is a 100% replacement for the switch in a n/c position so it lies to the controller. In any event if the vacuum switch is the issue jumping it should get the stove running provided all of the other connections are made.

ETA: You want to get things to the point that the stove runs and then remove the jumper and verify that the vacuum switch is indeed the only problem. Vacuum switches rarely fail.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 17, 2012)

Ok, I found the manual for the controller you have and I'd recommend reseating the molex connector with the stove off and unplugged. Then plug it in and turn it on.

ETA: There is also a hopper switch in-line with the auger motor best your hopper lid be closed.


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## Ironhorse74 (Oct 17, 2012)

Hey you got a bad board. I have seen them do this before.


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## bbfarm (Oct 17, 2012)

I didn't have time to elaberate this am on the exhaust fan when ours when bad.  It was still working, barely.  When we pulled it out it was very hard to spin with a finger.


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## heat seeker (Oct 17, 2012)

I think that only the later Afton Bays have a hopper switch. Mine is about 7 years old, has no hopper switch. I am toying with the idea of adding one, since it would be quite simple to do.


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## heat seeker (Oct 17, 2012)

bbfarm said:


> I didn't have time to elaberate this am on the exhaust fan when ours when bad. It was still working, barely. When we pulled it out it was very hard to spin with a finger.


 
Did you get the #2 light? Any other symptoms? I'm curious, just for future reference.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Oct 17, 2012)

heat seeker said:


> Did you get the #2 light? Any other symptoms? I'm curious, just for future reference.


 
heat seeker,

I believe this was the thread last season https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/im-cold-and-mad.83133/


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## heat seeker (Oct 17, 2012)

Got it, Smokey - thanks! I even had posted in that thread...

CRS strikes again.


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## heat seeker (Dec 15, 2012)

I wonder if this stove ever got running...


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## Bioburner (Dec 16, 2012)

This stove now for sale on CL? One posted now. Nice looking stove but had lighter fluid and lighter in picture.


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## luvmypelletstove1975 (Dec 12, 2016)

Tim469 said:


> When I start it (on manual) the fans come on,  it feeds the burn box with pellets, then the auger stops all fans shut down and the #2 & #3 lights blink simultaneously.  From the time I push start until the lights start to blink and everything stops and the control board won't respond is about 45 -60 seconds.  The pellets don't ignite.  The ignitor is hot (presumably not for enough time to ignite).
> The manual indicates this is a high limit switch problem.  I've reset the switch, no change. By-passed the switch with a jumper, no change.
> Now, Ive taken the stove outside and completely cleaned it (with brush, scraper, vacuum and an air compressor)- All ash traps, air intake path, exhaust path, behind the burn box, removed and cleaned both fans. The seals are in good repair. all doors and trap covers replaced and closed. I've by-passed the high limit switch, the vacuum switch, checked all the wiring connectors, cleaned the control board ground, ensured the control board is securely  in place (fuse is good). I've checked the wires and voltage (at the switch and at the pin out on the control board) for the hi-limit, vacuum and proof of fire switches.
> I took the proof of fire switch off and cleaned the contact area on the switch and fan.
> ...





We had this same problem, after replacing every sensor on the stove. It was found that the igniter set screw wasnt tight. so when the stove was moved the rod had slide out about 1/2" causing the stove not to light the pellets. This was cause from moving the stove.


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