# Husqvarna v Chainsaw



## hydestone (Oct 23, 2008)

I am on the market for a new chainsaw and am wondering what saw scores better: Husqvarna or Stihl.

I cut about 3-4 chords per year plus occasional trees and limbs.  I haven't found any real deals on the internet and the shops around my house seem to be steep.  I'd like to buy one locally to support area dealers.  Any other advantages to buying local?


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## sl7vk (Oct 23, 2008)

Between Husqvarna and Stihl, I'd go with Dolmar.


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## ironman70 (Oct 23, 2008)

I just bought a Husky 445 and absolutely love it.  I had been using my dad's old Husky 350 and my new one, IMO, is much better.  Couldn't say anything good or bad about Stihl's because I've never used one.


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## mranum (Oct 23, 2008)

Its the same as Chevy vs Ford.  The debate will go on forever.  Bottom line is they both make great saws, and they both make home owner quality and pro quality.  You will know the difference by looking at the $$$


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## Bigg_Redd (Oct 23, 2008)

hydestone said:
			
		

> I am on the market for a new chainsaw and am wondering what saw scores better: Husqvarna or Stihl.
> 
> I cut about 3-4 chords per year plus occasional trees and limbs.  I haven't found any real deals on the internet and the shops around my house seem to be steep.  I'd like to buy one locally to support area dealers.  Any other advantages to buying local?



They're both great saws.  You will never wear out either.


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## firefighterjake (Oct 23, 2008)

I'll echo Mranum and Big_Redd . . . I grew up using Stilhl saws, but the local dealership switched over to just selling and servicing Huskys so I now own a Husky. I haven't noticed a real difference with either the Stilhl or Husky . . . they're both a challenge to spell correctly . . . but both work well, run reliably and should give you years of service.


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## savageactor7 (Oct 23, 2008)

They're both excellent saws our dealer sells both. The best saw for you depends on the main source of wood you'll be harvesting from. I would go to a dealer and avoid the BB stores.


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## ClydesdaleBurner (Oct 23, 2008)

Not to highjack the thread, but Ironman 70 could you elaborate on the Husky 445?  I've been looking everywhere for a review of these newer, lower emissions, Husky saws.   Everything I've read seems to be that the older, 350's were better.  Seeing that you have experience with both 445 and 350 could you do a quick comparison?

If you want feel free to PM me.  I'm very interested to hear your point of view.

Thanks!


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## Bigg_Redd (Oct 23, 2008)

ClydesdaleBurner said:
			
		

> Not to highjack the thread, but Ironman 70 could you elaborate on the Husky 445?  I've been looking everywhere for a review of these newer, lower emissions, Husky saws.   Everything I've read seems to be that the older, 350's were better.  Seeing that you have experience with both 445 and 350 could you do a quick comparison?
> 
> If you want feel free to PM me.  I'm very interested to hear your point of view.
> 
> Thanks!



I know nothing of them, but anything designed for anything other than what it's meant for (a low emission saw, for example) sucks.


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## smokinj (Oct 23, 2008)

sl7vk said:
			
		

> Between Husqvarna and Stihl, I'd go with Dolmar.


Now thats one sided!lol


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## big_fish (Oct 23, 2008)

I can tell you this if you compare saws in size(cc,bar hp cid)you get more saw for your money with a husqvarna and the stihl produc seem a little higher in price (chain loops filters bars ect) I'm not saying any thing bad about stihl I have a husqvarna 455 rancher and love it my buddy has a stihl farmboss and loves his neither of us are in a race when cutting and still get the same amount of wood if your gooing to cut a fair amount ofwood I would also figure in a pair of chaps(30 yrs of cutting with out them and then 2 seconds of moving chain across my leg and now I dont limp out there with out them)safety first


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## JustWood (Oct 23, 2008)

Both are good. I prefer STIHL. Buy a pro series and it will be the last one you ever  buy.


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## hydestone (Oct 24, 2008)

I am leaning towards a STIHL Farm Boss instead of Husky Rancher.  It seems like there are many more STIHL dealers in my area.  I called a few dealers and talked with them about the saws.  It seems like they have more Huskies in for service than Stihls.

Which do you think goes in for service more often?

What are the pros and cons of Huskies and Stihls?  Do they basically have the same features?

How long do you think a cared for Farm Boss will last?


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## Nic36 (Oct 24, 2008)

I doubt  you can go too wrong with either a Husqvarna or Stihl. I know nothing about Stihl and have no experience running one. I, personally, am happy with the Husky 55 Rancher I have. I have thought about buying a Stihl just because I have never owned or used one. I think Husqvarna dealers may be just a wee bit more numerous down here.

If you can hold out until spring or summer, you may see more reasonable prices on saws. It seems they are very marked up from what I have seen on places like eBay. I guess everyone is in firewood cutting mode right now.


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## Sealcove (Oct 24, 2008)

hydestone said:
			
		

> I am on the market for a new chainsaw and am wondering what saw scores better: Husqvarna or Stihl.



Both can be excellent.  If you look at both make sure you are comparing like saws.  In other words it does you no good to compare a pro-grade Husky with a homeowner grade Stihl, or vice versa.  Secondly, consider if a particular dealer makes more sense for you.


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## hydestone (Oct 24, 2008)

Unfortunately I can't wait until spring...my saw just died the other day.

Apparently I melted a piston?  Make since?  They said either bad gas, bad oil or dull chain.  Or fuel air ration incorrect and running too fast.


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## Sealcove (Oct 24, 2008)

hydestone said:
			
		

> Which do you think goes in for service more often?
> 
> What are the pros and cons of Huskies and Stihls?  Do they basically have the same features?
> 
> How long do you think a cared for Farm Boss will last?



1. Neither brand should need service all that often if not ever if properly cared for.  If you can afford a pro-grade saw from either company that will be doubly true.  None of my pro-grade saws have ever seen the inside of a shop since new, and that is with exceptionally hard use.

2. If you are looking at comparable grades of each there are only subtle ergonomic and design differences.  Same basic operational features, and identical safety features.

3. Depends on your usage.  If its light use and you care for the saw, it could easily last 15+ years.


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## sl7vk (Oct 24, 2008)

What are the differences....

Husky uses an external drive sprocket, Stihl an internal..... I prefer an internal myself, but this isn't that big of a deal, I guess..... External is harder to change the chain and gets dirtier.

The FarmBoss is a dog.... Yes I said it.... again..... And yes I've had a couple of drinks tonight and don't mind the firestorm that will ensue.

Listen, if you are looking for a good saw, we need to know what you are cutting, how big, how much, how often.

My favorite light multipurpose saw, is the one I own.

1) Dolmar 5100
2) Husqvarna 346 xp ne
3) Stihl 260

These are 50cc saws that are light, powerful, can cut with a 16-20 inch bar, and are all pro grade.

The Dolmar you can get for under 400 clams, the Husqvarna, will set you back, 475, the Stihl, around 490.  I actually like them in reverse order of price.

I think the Dolmar kicks ass, the Husky 346 xp ne is badass, and the 260 is good.

Don't get the heavy old, farm boss.  If you are going to spend 360 on the farm boss, just spend 40 to 130 dollars more and get a great saw that you won't ever replace, and that doesn't weigh 13 pounds.

The saws I've just mentioned weigh 2 pounds less (yes this is a big deal) and have more HP's then the FarmDog.

Just my opinion, and it's worth the price charged......


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## mranum (Oct 24, 2008)

hydestone said:
			
		

> Unfortunately I can't wait until spring...my saw just died the other day.
> 
> Apparently I melted a piston?  Make since?  They said either bad gas, bad oil or dull chain.  Or fuel air ration incorrect and running too fast.



Yeah you can melt a piston.  Sounds like it would have a been running real lean and maybe running in hot weather too.  I tend to run my stuff on the richer side, with the gasil mix as well as fuel:air mix.  Its just a little more lubrication to me.

I can't see where a dull chain would have anything to do with it unless they figure you were lugging the motor too much and making it work too hard.


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## ironman70 (Oct 24, 2008)

ClydesdaleBurner said:
			
		

> Not to highjack the thread, but Ironman 70 could you elaborate on the Husky 445?  I've been looking everywhere for a review of these newer, lower emissions, Husky saws.   Everything I've read seems to be that the older, 350's were better.  Seeing that you have experience with both 445 and 350 could you do a quick comparison?
> 
> If you want feel free to PM me.  I'm very interested to hear your point of view.
> 
> Thanks!



PM sent ClydesdaleBurner


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## Nic36 (Oct 24, 2008)

sl7vk said:
			
		

> The FarmBoss is a dog.... Yes I said it.... again..... And yes I've had a couple of drinks tonight and don't mind the firestorm that will ensue.
> 
> Don't get the heavy old, farm boss.  If you are going to spend 360 on the farm boss, just spend 40 to 130 dollars more and get a great saw that you won't ever replace, and that doesn't weigh 13 pounds.
> 
> ...



I was going to comment earlier, but I refrained from doing so. I did not want a Husky/Stihl debate raging. But, some handymen at my workplace were clearing some brush out back. They had a Stihl MS290 farm boss they left in our garage for the night. I guess it is somewhat the equivalent of my Husky 55 Rancher. I thought about cranking it up and trying it out on something, but all I did was pick it up and handle it. The first thing I noticed was how doggone heavy it seemed. It just didn't feel right. It may be peppier than my Rancher, so I reserved overall judgement. 

And yes, two pounds after a while does make a difference.


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## savageactor7 (Oct 24, 2008)

A dull chain creates lingering saw dust that's quickly inhaled by the air filter causing the saw to operate hotter. A sharp chain creates heavier chips that are thrown clear.


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## struggle (Oct 24, 2008)

The poor Farm Boss is getting hammered here :lol: I have a Farm Boos and the only problem I have had is the coil went bad on it. I replaced it myself and the new one was different design. Saw is over four years old now. It has never laid down on me while out cutting and I have cut trees larger than the 18 bar on it and it went through everything with no problems. If I were to buy a replacement saw it would most likely be a pro model but as I see it this saw shows no signs of quitting. 

It is not light but I can start cutting a log and just hold on to it lightly and the saw does all the work. I have not had to muscle the thing through wood.  A friend has a husky. Not sure what model but it seems not as handy to use to me but I am alos not used to that style. I changed the chain on his and I know for sure I did not like the external clutch set up. 

I would bet you will be happy no matter what saw you choose.


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## Dill (Oct 24, 2008)

Well I have a rancher and my dad has the farmboss.
I use the rancher as the small limbing saw,and to cut pine and use the 372 as the big saw. 
My father just uses the farm boss as an all around saw.
If I was only to get one I'd go with the Farm Boss.
Or a 60cc saw from either company. 

The farm boss isn't the lightest thing in the world, but it seems to have quite a bit more grunt than the rancher.
He found it at a pawn shop almost brand new in the case for 200.


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## kenny chaos (Oct 24, 2008)

I'm cutting and splitting next years wood and people keep stopping and buying it.  I went to Danny's this morning and picked me up a new Stihl MS441.  I dragged up six trees out of the woods and I don't think it took much more than five minutes to cut them into twenty, 12' lengths, to feed the Beaver.


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## kevin j (Oct 24, 2008)

probably ran lean, air leask somewhere.

brands, all good. fine points.
There are homeowner LOW end box stores (usually Poulan) tha are ok for limited use. brand name low end husky and stihl both make low ends, and mid range serious use, then pro saws. More money is lighter, better antivibr, and more easily rebuildable. The hard core users adamantly recommend pro saws. but for simple firewood homeowner duty any one will do.

That said, I would NOT buy anything from a box store or lawnmower store. Find a GOOD dealer, and whatever brand that is, buy it. I have several Stihl, but the local dealer is a lawnmower shop who knows little and stocks little. 20 minutes away is a good store with service and parts people. So I would find the good dealer who takes the time to ask about your needs, has saws you can heft and maybe operate in a log.  Spend as much as you can afford an buy it once and be done. I would not overbuy, if most of your wood is 18 inches, there is no need for a MS460.......   I am partial to about 50 cc for most homeowner serious firewood use. 60+ cc is great, but the weight is noticeable for limbing and cutting small stuff.
Big motors don't cut any faster IF the wood is small enough tonot require the hp. Once you get in bigger stuff, bigger cc is time saved and FUN to drive.


IMO, saws are tools, just like hand tools, handguns, motorcycles, etc etc. once you try several one will just feel 'right' like an extension of your body. Some one else will try the same one and not like it. but it will be right for you.

k


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## hydestone (Oct 25, 2008)

Currently I cut no more than a triaxle of logs each year, a few trees, and some limbs.  My firewood requirements will increase in the next few years, but not much...maybe a couple triaxles a year max.  I'd love a pro saw but it is probably more than I need.  Any suggestions for that kind of usage?  Logs are anywhere from 8 to 16' and from 8" to 24" diameter.  I get mostly red and white oak also some sugar maple.

13 pounds does seem like a lot but for the amount I cut and with the logs on the ground it shouldn't be that big of a problem.

What is the difference between internal and external gearing?

Anybody know of a good saw shop MA?  I am 50 minutes NW of Boston by 495 and route 2.


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## hydestone (Oct 25, 2008)

How do you think this saw stacks up to the MS290?

MS 250 C-BE Chain Saw.

Is the toolless chain adjuster a gimmick or useful?  What about the easy start and carb preheat shutter for summer/winter operation?


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## sl7vk (Oct 25, 2008)

hydestone said:
			
		

> How do you think this saw stacks up to the MS290?
> 
> MS 250 C-BE Chain Saw.
> 
> Is the toolless chain adjuster a gimmick or useful?  What about the easy start and carb preheat shutter for summer/winter operation?



Tooless chain- more crap that can go wrong, and harder to change the chain and bar.  Crap IMHO.
Easy Start- a good modern chainsaw is already easy start.  Unless you're 80, you'll be fine without.
Carb summer/winter- unless you're cutting in Northern Norway, not a big deal.

The 250 is fine.....  But it's a homeowner saw.

Find yourself a Dolmar dealership if you can. 

If you insist on Stihl, then save a few bucks and get a 260.


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## Bigg_Redd (Oct 25, 2008)

hydestone said:
			
		

> Currently I cut no more than a triaxle of logs each year, a few trees, and some limbs.  My firewood requirements will increase in the next few years, but not much...maybe a couple triaxles a year max.  I'd love a pro saw but it is probably more than I need.  Any suggestions for that kind of usage?  Logs are anywhere from 8 to 16' and from 8" to 24" diameter.  I get mostly red and white oak also some sugar maple.
> 
> 13 pounds does seem like a lot but for the amount I cut and with the logs on the ground it shouldn't be that big of a problem.
> 
> ...



What is a triaxle?


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## hydestone (Oct 25, 2008)

A triaxle is a logging truck with 3 axles and open sides.


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## kenny chaos (Oct 25, 2008)

A triaxle is a truckload of logs.

And about the easy chain adjuster, I've used one for about five years on a ms280c and will really miss it on my new saw.


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## pdboilermaker (Oct 25, 2008)

Contrairy to what all of these people say, the most important thing in this day and age for cutting is two things a saw that feels good in your hand be it a poulan, a stihl, a husky, a dolmer and a sharp chain.

Everyone here will dog out poulans but they are dang good saws at a reasonable price (these are the same people that buy $200.00 Air Jordans rather than the cheaper $9.00 Starburrys that are made by the same little Chineese kids in the same sweat shops)

Thread after thread tell the stories of many a woodsman waiting year after year for their Poulan to die so they can buy a Stihl, Husky etc.  The fact that they are waiting so many years for it to die should be telling you something.


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## hydestone (Oct 25, 2008)

The only reason I am on here is because my Poulan sawed its last log!

I am off to go make a purchase this morning.


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## savageactor7 (Oct 25, 2008)

hydestone if that's all you cut is log loads you may not need a pro model stihl or husky saw. Bucking log loads is about the easiest thing a chainsaw does next to sitting on a shelf. But I wouldn't advise getting a big box store stihl or hunky.


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## efoyt (Oct 25, 2008)

If you go with a Poulan run it hard before the warranty runs out. See if it will handle everything you want it to without dieing before the warenty runs out. Also the older Poulans that are still running might have been better built then the ones that are being made today. From the people that I have talked to ( and it might just be the hole " they don't build saws like they used to thing" ) they seam to think the newer Poulans might not be as good as the older ones. But I don't nor have I ever owned a Poulan. I did have a McCulloch that ran like a champ until I killed it, my fault. Didn't understand that hardwood and softwood are two very different beasts when it comes to cutting. And the saws CC were very low. I think if I had treated that saw right it would have run forever.


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## pdboilermaker (Oct 25, 2008)

I persoanlly own a Stihl MS310 - LOVE IT.  But I bought it 7 or 8 years ago, I have a friend that bought a Poulan the same time and he cuts as much wood as me and his saw does just as good as mine.  Now my other buddies also have ms310's and we, in jest mock and scoff the buddy with the Poulan but its just in good fun circa Dodge vs. Chevy, Cubs vs. White Sucks etc.

You really cant fault the Poulans.  If I were to buy antoher saw, I would go the Poulan route


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## hydestone (Oct 25, 2008)

I just stood in front of the rack of saws for 30 minutes going back and forth between 290 and 250.  I ended up leaving with a 250.


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## Bigg_Redd (Oct 25, 2008)

pdboilermaker said:
			
		

> I persoanlly own a Stihl MS310 - LOVE IT.  But I bought it 7 or 8 years ago, I have a friend that bought a Poulan the same time and he cuts as much wood as me and his saw does just as good as mine.  Now my other buddies also have ms310's and we, in jest mock and scoff the buddy with the Poulan but its just in good fun circa Dodge vs. Chevy, Cubs vs. White Sucks etc.
> 
> You really cant fault the Poulans.  If I were to buy antoher saw, I would go the Poulan route



I agree with you to a point, but I've seen dozens of 30+ year old Stihls still running just fine, and if they do break parts and service are readily available.  I've seen a couple Poulans with 4-5 years that still run fine.  My Stihl chainsaw and weed eater are the best, most reliable tools I own.  They fire up every time with absolutely no maintenance.


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## Bigg_Redd (Oct 25, 2008)

hydestone said:
			
		

> A triaxle is a logging truck with 3 axles and open sides.



Oh.


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## hydestone (Oct 25, 2008)

The guy at the equipment store told me that the homeowner models are not as easy to fix as pro or mid-range use models.  He said when something major goes wrong it is not as easy to repair as a mid-range use or pro use saw.  Ie, drop it from a tree and homeowner model ends up in trash and pro or mid-range saw can be repaired.  Any truth to that?


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## Sealcove (Oct 25, 2008)

hydestone said:
			
		

> The guy at the equipment store told me that the homeowner models are not as easy to fix as pro or mid-range use models.  He said when something major goes wrong it is not as easy to repair as a mid-range use or pro use saw.  Ie, drop it from a tree and homeowner model ends up in trash and pro or mid-range saw can be repaired.  Any truth to that?



I don't know how it is between the base grade and middle grades, but the pro-grade saws are absolutely built better and rarely need repair in the first place.  If there is any chance someone can afford it, I  strongly advocate for a buying pro-grade saw.  In the long run it will be the most reliable and least expensive option.


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## Sealcove (Oct 25, 2008)

pdboilermaker said:
			
		

> Everyone here will dog out poulans but they are dang good saws at a reasonable price (these are the same people that buy $200.00 Air Jordans rather than the cheaper $9.00 Starburrys that are made by the same little Chineese kids in the same sweat shops)



There is nothing wrong with running a Poulan, but as a professional user I can tell you that the difference is not just price.  Now if you want to compare the bottom end Husky's & Stihls with a Poulan, you would be right that they very likely could come from a similar factory, and the quality is probably not all that different.  I will go out on a limb and call the bottom end Husky's & Stihls disposable chainsaws.  That is a far cry from higher end saws, and that is something Poulan simply does not make.


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## hydestone (Oct 26, 2008)

Head to Head, which is a better saw

250 or 290?


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## crazy_dan (Oct 26, 2008)

Even my 142 bargain basement priced husky has way better vibration dampening system than any poulan I have ever used, I am sure that the 142 came off the same line as the poulan and yes it does cost more, but I can still open and close my hand after running my 142 for any length of time. the poulans i have after 5 min my hands do not want to open and close.

But when you get away from economy saws and into some mid grade and pro saws there is absolutely no comparison. in price or performance.


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## hydestone (Oct 26, 2008)

I am returning my 250 for a 290 tomorrow after work.

Do shops typically give you a hard time about returning saws?  The 250 never even touched a piece of wood.


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## JustWood (Oct 26, 2008)

Sealcove said:
			
		

> hydestone said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Agree 100% !


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## big_fish (Oct 26, 2008)

which ever saw you choose if you are using it to supply your home with heat just make sure your happy with it my father sells fire wood (about 3oo load a yr) and uses poulans faithfully for the past 20 yrs I have a few of them in my shop(replaced the oil pumps for the bar) seems to be a mfg flaw in materials plastic gear metal drive) all in all about a $35 repair part and labor I my self am a husqvarna fan ( any one that doesn't have just 2 bolts to hold exhaust on they always come loose and ends up taking threads out)   I have a friend whos swears by craftsman saws and I have tried to tell him they are the exact same saw as a poulan just different color the real key is a good sharp chain and a properly service saw good luck


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## Gooserider (Oct 27, 2008)

Having started with a Pull-on, and graduated to a Dolmar 7900, I will say that IMHO a pro-grade saw is worth it.  The consumer grades aren't as well built, and are harder to work on when they break - to the point where repairs that are cost effective on a pro-saw (and less expensive) are not cost effective on a consumer saw... 

When I bought my Dolmar, I found that in pro-grade saws, it seemed that you definitely got more "bang for the buck" for a Dolmar than you did for the same size range Husky or Stihl...

I paid under $600 for my 80cc Dolmar, the comparable range Husky and Stihls were in the $800-1000 range...  The big challenge is finding a good dealer, and the Dolmar dealer locator didn't seem to help much - when I was calling several to check prices, I found I knew more about the line than they did...  (there was a misprint in the distributor manual - gave the wrong specs on the saw, made it easy to tell who knew what they were talking about and who was just reading the book...)

I've noticed nothing but rave reviews on both the Dolmar 5100 (50cc) and the 7900 family (60,72 and 80cc) of saws both here and on Arboristsite...

Gooserider


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## MikeS (Nov 20, 2008)

i fix and run both husky and stihl.
not sure why no one says that a dolmar is a husky.  isn't a dolmar a husky from Italy (or some other satellite factory for husky?)
i thought dolmar was like a "swedish Mauser" it looks like a husky to me....and parts interchange.

anyway, have to take sides here--the stihls are better, but only a little, and not enough to pass up a bargain on a husky.  not enough to buy a stihl if you have husky dealers all around.  dealers are good to have around--i have only one (stihl) and it is a rip off.  i wish i had more dealers for some competition and some COMPETENCY.   here are my complaints on the husky:

the clutch is on backwards.  it makes bar/chain/sproket work harder.  like a (simple) puzzle--you have to put the pieces on in order.  the stihl, you just put it all on there and go.  flip the bar, go.  oil, gas, flip bar, sharpen, go.  never take off your gloves.  more production. (more money, though)
the backwards clutch on a husky means you have to "rope trick" the saw to grease the bearing (or use a piston stop).  you have to unscrew the clutch.  The stihl has an E clip and that is it.  unless you lose it then you will wish you had a husky or another E clip.
I like the Stihl bar nuts becasue I can work them with work goves on.  they fit on the Husky, too, so just swap them out.
Husky/stihl is like ford/chevy in the old days like late 70s and early 80s.  Husky changes lots of little crap many times on the saw and you need more than just a model number (ford) to get the right part.  Stihl seems to be all the same for years (although some like the 038 were around forever and changed a lot).  They seem to use the same parts over and over (chevy).  just seems to me like they "get it right the first time" and don't rework the design as much.
The Stihl chains are sharper than the Oregon chains on new Huskys.  my opinion.  always wear gloves.  riiiiight.  anyway, I am always checking for blood after touching new Stihl chain (without gloves, of course).  I don't ask "Did I just cut myself?" working with the Oregon chain.

The huskys do seem a bit meaner or more high strung--which is good.  the ergonomics are maybe a bit better (not handles/weight/work, but just the slimmer body is a teeny bit more manageable).

I think the Stihl "occasional use saws" are way better than the "husqvarna from Lowes" saws.  the only exception is MAYBE the 55cc "rancher" saws which compete with the stihl 290.  the price difference here would tip me towards the hardware store.  when Stihl has the sale event and pushes 0.235 290s for $330 with case, then I would go back the other way.  I would not pay more than $100 for a perfect Husky from Lowes if it is the 14x 34x 345 346 whatever small saw.  I gladly pay 100 to 125 for nice good Stihl 018.


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## MikeS (Nov 20, 2008)

sorry--that would be 0.325 290 with case.  Transposed numbers.....


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## Gooserider (Nov 20, 2008)

MikeS said:
			
		

> i fix and run both husky and stihl.
> not sure why no one says that a dolmar is a husky.  isn't a dolmar a husky from Italy (or some other satellite factory for husky?)
> i thought dolmar was like a "swedish Mauser" it looks like a husky to me....and parts interchange.<snip>



Don't know who's been feeding you funny stuff, but that is totally off base - there is NO connection between Husky and Dolmar.  Most parts do NOT interchange, other than the fact that some of the Dolmar's use the same bolt pattern as Husky on their bars.  

BTW, My Dolmar 7900 has an outside mounted rim sprocket setup, and I believe the 5100s does as well - not sure about the other models - however that doesn't make them Stihl's either....

Dolmar is a German company, used to be Sach's Dolmar at one time, but they have no connection to either Husky or Stihl - however Dolmar does also have a fair collection of "firsts" in the chainsaw industry, they've been at it a long time....

Gooserider


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## MikeS (Nov 20, 2008)

maybe I was thinking Jonsered, not Dolmar.

time to go smoke another one?


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## sl7vk (Nov 20, 2008)

MikeS said:
			
		

> maybe I was thinking Jonsered, not Dolmar.
> 
> time to go smoke another one?



Yes, you were thinking Jonsered.....

Dolmar is really making progress in the American market.... Word of mouth and sites like these have to be pushing sales up.


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## polaris (Nov 21, 2008)

hydestone said:
			
		

> I am leaning towards a STIHL Farm Boss instead of Husky Rancher.  It seems like there are many more STIHL dealers in my area.  I called a few dealers and talked with them about the saws.  It seems like they have more Huskies in for service than Stihls.
> 
> Which do you think goes in for service more often?
> 
> ...


  At 3-4 cords per year a "well cared for" farm boss will last you longer than you'll want to use it.


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## MikeS (Nov 21, 2008)

see my previous post for cons on husky (all minor, as i noted)
con for Stihl is higher cost in some cases.


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## Brian VT (Nov 22, 2008)

Gooserider said:
			
		

> My Dolmar 7900 has an outside mounted rim sprocket setup, and I believe the 5100s does as well - not sure about the other models


Yup. Inboard clutch on the 5100S also.
What this means to wankers like me, my dealer told me, is that you don't have to worry about unlocking (or locking?) the brake before removing the side cover.
He said that on some other saws you wouldn't be able to get the cover back on without releasing the locking band, which is a pita.


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## Bigg_Redd (Nov 22, 2008)

polaris said:
			
		

> hydestone said:
> 
> 
> 
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What's to care for?  Shake out the air filter every now and then?  A new spark plug every 5 years?  

I'm going on 6 years with my Farm Boss and apart from the air filter I've never touched it other than to cut wood.


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## Gooserider (Nov 22, 2008)

Brian VT said:
			
		

> Gooserider said:
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> 
> 
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More or less...  With the outside mount sprocket, the brake handle and assembly is part of the saw, and stays out of the way except when you are actually working on it, or possibly servicing the clutch itself - both fairly infrequent events.  With an inside sprocket, the brake assembly, and especially the band that goes around the clutch drum, is part of the chain cover, and thus has to come off any time you want to remove the bar and/or chain - which is a fairly frequent task.  It isn't a big deal if you have the brake in the off position, and keep it that way (You won't get the cover off if the brake is on...)  But if you manage to trip the brake while the cover is off, it can definitely be a challenge to reset - the problem is that you don't have any leverage to push against because the cover is such a small part.  (w/ my Pull-on, I found the easiest way was to put a couple of drift pins in my big shop vice so that the cover holes for the bar studs fit over them - that gave me the leverage for resetting the brake)

Gooserider


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## Bigg_Redd (Nov 22, 2008)

Gooserider said:
			
		

> Brian VT said:
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I've only owned Stihls so I've never had to work on a chainsaw.


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## sl7vk (Nov 22, 2008)

Bigg_Redd said:
			
		

> Gooserider said:
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So you've never changed a chain or a sprocket....

Wow....


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## Bigg_Redd (Nov 22, 2008)

sl7vk said:
			
		

> Bigg_Redd said:
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I've never changed a sprocket and, so, "wow" that. . .


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## sl7vk (Nov 24, 2008)

Bigg_Redd said:
			
		

> sl7vk said:
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Clearly rubbed you the wrong way, but the sprocket is a wear item... like a chain.  

You should get that checked out.


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## polaris (Nov 25, 2008)

sl7vk said:
			
		

> Bigg_Redd said:
> 
> 
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Sprockets don't wear real quickly on a medium powered saw like the Farm Boss. I have gone through 10+ chains before the sprocket showed any noticeable wear. Stihl, while not the cheapest makes a top notch saw with the best chains in the business(imo) and parts and service are always readily available pretty much worldwide should you ever need them.


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## Spikem (Dec 13, 2008)

kevin j said:
			
		

> probably ran lean, air leask somewhere.
> 
> brands, all good. fine points.
> There are homeowner LOW end box stores (usually Poulan) tha are ok for limited use. brand name low end husky and stihl both make low ends, and mid range serious use, then pro saws. More money is lighter, better antivibr, and more easily rebuildable. The hard core users adamantly recommend pro saws. but for simple firewood homeowner duty any one will do.
> ...



A well thought out post.  Kudos!


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## pretite (Sep 23, 2009)

Hi,if i were you i'll go for STIHL. Been using one for years and haven't change this one since the day i bought it.


Regards,
pretite
Link deleted - mod


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## stee6043 (Sep 23, 2009)

I nominate Pretite's post for "best revival of the year".  Did some deep digging to find this post.  HA.


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## LLigetfa (Sep 23, 2009)

I'm sure he washed his hands after digging up that corpse.


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## Gooserider (Sep 23, 2009)

Looked borderline spammish to me, so I took the link out of the post...  Will see if he comes back.

Gooserider


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## Flatbedford (Sep 23, 2009)

I actually read the whole thing! I must have too much time on my hands.
I have Stihls and Fords.


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## polaris (Sep 25, 2009)

stee6043 said:
			
		

> I nominate Pretite's post for "best revival of the year".  Did some deep digging to find this post.  HA.


 I hope he/she returns. I heard that Magic heats were gov. mandated in France and I wanted to ask how that was working out.


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## ksting (Sep 25, 2009)

I just got a Stihl Wood Boss in July. LOVE IT! It's a little less power and lighter weight then the Farm Boss but a little more money becasue of it's power to weight ratio and anti vibrate feature.


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