# 24" bar on husky 455 rancher?



## buddylee

Anyone ran a 24" bar on a 455?  If so how did it do.


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## woodsmaster

I have a 455 and couldn't imagine using a 24" bar. It barley has enough power for the 18" in a hardwood with a sharp chain.


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## Thistle

I wouldnt try it. 20" max for that saw. Even though the specs for the 460 say its rated for 24" bar,thats pushing it in dense hardwoods,even with a Skip Tooth chain.


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## PapaDave

Agreed. Mine came with a 20", and I'd like to change to an 18" as soon as this one wears out.
Don't need the 20" most of the time anyway.


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## laynes69

I want an 18" for mine also. I cut a ash tree that was 28" in diameter and it was slow. I pulled out my 041 stihl and it was much better. Where do you guys get a more aggressive chain for the 455? Tsc only carries safety chains and I want something a little better.


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## Thistle

laynes69 said:
			
		

> I want an 18" for mine also. I cut a ash tree that was 28" in diameter and it was slow. I pulled out my 041 stihl and it was much better. Where do you guys get a more aggressive chain for the 455? Tsc only carries safety chains and I want something a little better.



baileysonline.com & treestuff.com are 2 good places to check.Also check local saw shops,they usually have various loops in stock & can build you one if needed.I even picked up another 20" Full Chisel (non-safety) chain at local Northern Tool on Tuesday, was surprised to see they had a few mixed in with the green labeled safety chains.Most farm supply & other retailers only sell the safety chains anymore.Wasnt that way 20-25 yrs ago,never seen anything like safety chain back then.


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## CaddyUser

Agreed, 18" in hardwood is about all it will handle.  I switched mine from 3/8 to .325 chain (requires changing the sprocket too), and used the Carleton equivalent to the Oregon 95VP chain.  It seems to work better now....


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## midwestcoast

I'll add that the oiler is barely up to handling a 20" bar IMO. 24" would be very light on oil & getting warm pretty quick.


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## forvols

I got a 460 came a 20in bar shifted it to an 18in with chisel chain...does way better. Think I will stick with that setup, no issue in hard woods


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## rbrown

I have a Husqvarna 455 Rancher and at times when I run into big wood (3' red oak) I will run a 24" bar with a full chisel chain. You take your time and it will work. If you are cutting big wood most of the time then a larger cc saw should be used. 

I think that the 455 Rancher is under rated for the price range it's in.


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## DiscoInferno

Although I primarily use the 18" bar that came with it, I also have a 24" bar that fits both my 455 and 359.  It did surprisingly well with it with full-chisel skip chain in oak and elm.  I guess if you figure that full-skip chain has I think 2/3 of the tooth density of full comp, then 24" skip is more like 16" full comp.  I did have seizing problems with the oiler on medium with the 18" bar, but so far no problems with the oiler wide open on 24".  YMMV.

I have also used the 455 w/ 24" chain for a little milling, but that's definitely not a strength of that saw.  Very slow.


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## iod0816

My father runs a 24 on his rancher. Keeps it sharp, doesn't tackle anything 20 or larger not the best but it works for him. He has been cutting with this saw and size for a good long time. Keeping it sharp is prolly the saving grace.


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## Bret Chase

My 455R does just fine in anything short of locust or hard maple.... then I feel the limit of it's horsepower...


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## MasterMech

rbrown said:


> I think that the 455 Rancher is under rated for the price range it's in.​


 
The Sthil MS290 soundly thumped the 455R on both power and price. (But not ergonomics!)  Now that the plug has finally been pulled on the 290, the 455 is probably the best saw running a 20" bar for under $450.



PapaDave said:


> Mine came with a 20", and I'd like to change to an 18" as soon as this one wears out. Don't need the 20" most of the time anyway.​


 
I'd go 16" Dave.  Save weight and maximize the available power. Ask DexterDay how he liked his 455R 16" setup. 



buddylee said:


> Anyone ran a 24" bar on a 455? If so how did it do.


 
I guarantee you won't be happy with the power/speed. And you're likely to run out of oiler too.  If you need a bigger bar for 1 job, beg, borrow, or rent a bigger saw.  If you intend to run a 24" bar semi-regularly, I'd start looking for a bigger saw.


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## ArsenalDon

midwestcoast said:


> the oiler is barely up to handling a 20"


agreed...the oiler on mine is weak...had to thin down bar chain oil with 10W40


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## Bigg_Redd

buddylee said:


> Anyone ran a 24" bar on a 455? If so how did it do.


 
I had an MS290 and wondered the same thing, but then I pulled my head out and got a 440.  Hope this helps.


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## BobUrban

I am a little overkill on saw preservation and try to stay at least one size below the longest bar recomended for the saw.  I just think of it this way - small motor, built and used at wide open opperation and under high stress.  Any chance you have to limit the strain the better. 

If it is used rarely with the big bar??  probably OK but I like my tools to last.  Other opinions may vary but I am not yet savvy on saw rebuilds.


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## ScotO

You'd be very dissappointed in the performance of that saw with a 24" bar on it.  I'd keep it at 20 or below for that saw.  What is the main reason you want a 24" bar on it?  If it is to cut bigger wood, you can cut a 36 to 38" diameter tree witha 20" bar, the only advantage to a longer bar is the "not having to bend over to cut" factor, and for that a 24" bar isn't going to help you much.  I run 28" bars on my saws, mainly for the not bending factor.......

But I'm running that 28" bar on a 72cc saw......


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## Thistle

Scotty Overkill said:


> You'd be very dissappointed in the performance of that saw with a 24" bar on it. I'd keep it at 20 or below for that saw. What is the main reason you want a 24" bar on it? If it is to cut bigger wood, you can cut a 36 to 38" diameter tree witha 20" bar, the only advantage to a longer bar is the "not having to bend over to cut" factor, and for that a 24" bar isn't going to help you much. I run 28" bars on my saws, mainly for the not bending factor.......
> 
> But I'm running that 28" bar on a 72cc saw......


 
There ya go.Though the 288XPW can pull a 48" b/c with authority,I havent had the need for one yet (plus arent willing to part with $300+ for one either) . So the 28" stays on there exclusively except for the few times I needed the 36".


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## DexterDay

MasterMech said:


> I'd go 16" Dave.  Save weight and maximize the available power. Ask DexterDay how he liked his 455R 16" setup.
> 
> 
> 
> I guarantee you won't be happy with the power/speed. And you're likely to run out of oiler too.  If you need a bigger bar for 1 job, beg, borrow, or rent a bigger saw.  If you intend to run a 24" bar semi-regularly, I'd start looking for a bigger saw.



My 455 came with a 20"... It worked. But not as well as a 16". It SCREAMED With a 16" and the chain will thank you in both speed and oil (longevity). I have a favorite saw now. But my "Favorite" that I got rid of.... My 455 Rancher


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## Carl Knobloch

I beg to differ with most of these posters.  I use a 24"bar on my 455 all the time it stays sharp longer than the 20 and allows me to attack most things it is practical for me to attack as an advanced homeowner user.
I have taken 120' pine trees and large oaks to firewood length pieces with no problem in reasonable time.  If I was a professional and using the saw daily I would definitley go to a larger Husky or Stihl model but of you are a weekend warrior with a large wood lot dont be afraid to put the 24" bar on the 455 and have at it.  Just keep an eye on chain oil, keep an extra chain around if the job is really big, keep the revs up, use plastic wedges to keep your cuts open and of course BE CAREFUL!


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## HDRock

laynes69 said:


> Where do you guys get a more aggressive chain for the 455?


 
I get my full chisel chains here, I bought a Oregon bar from there also,  http://customcare.co/ good prices, free shipping, and they ship fast


They also have an ebay store http://stores.ebay.com/Custom-Care-...66963015&_sid=791048275&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322


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## CaddyUser

MasterMech said:


> I'd go 16" Dave. Save weight and maximize the available power


 
That's what I'm running...  16" with a .325 chisel.    I had an 18" for awhile, and I didn't like it at all.  I like that saw, but one of these days I'm going to upgrade it.


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## bogydave

Full chisel 20" recommends 60 cc.
Use a skip chain would help.
24" , stay away form a full chisel.

But keep the Rs up & it will work.


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## Apprentice_GM

Carl Knobloch said:


> I beg to differ with most of these posters. I use a 24"bar on my 455 all the time it stays sharp longer than the 20 and allows me to attack most things it is practical for me to attack as an advanced homeowner user.
> I have taken 120' pine trees and large oaks to firewood length pieces with no problem in reasonable time. If I was a professional and using the saw daily I would definitley go to a larger Husky or Stihl model but of you are a weekend warrior with a large wood lot dont be afraid to put the 24" bar on the 455 and have at it. Just keep an eye on chain oil, keep an extra chain around if the job is really big, keep the revs up, use plastic wedges to keep your cuts open and of course BE CAREFUL!


 
+1

I use a 455 Rancher and the 24" bar it came with. I find the saw a bit heavy but it pulls the chain fine through Aussie hardwoods (Eucalypts like redgum, bluegum, and yellowbox and turpentine) and it's nice when bucking <24" logs to only do one cut. I too am not a pro just an afternoon and weekend warrior. Maybe the saw is a little underpowered for a 24" bar but I cut down a 120' high x 30" diameter gum tree in quick enough time. I have no problem with the oiler, I work in pretty temperate conditions eg 15-25 degrees C. FWIW I use 2 chains and have no problems getting through a 4 or 5 hours session just swapping the chain, no sharpening on the fly.


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