# Speeco wedge's gone kaput



## HeatsTwice (Jun 28, 2014)

I bought this splitter for $435 and all my neighbors bought a share for $100 plus long term maintenance so it's seen a lot of use - at least 40 cords split by all over the past 5 years. Been through two cylinders so far but everything else has held up well.

But as one of the neighbors was splitting up some Eucalyptus the wedge finally gave out. I'm looking for a new one from Speeco but no luck yet. Will probably have one custom made by local machine shop. I wish I knew how to weld. It doesn't see like it would be hard to make one.


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## WiscWoody (Jun 28, 2014)

That wedge looks like it's seen pretty tough use and maybe something other than wood logs. It seems odd you can't find a replacement. Someone will chime in here I'm sure.


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## HeatsTwice (Jun 28, 2014)

WiscWoody said:


> That wedge looks like it's seen pretty tough use and maybe something other than wood logs. It seems odd you can't find a replacement. Someone will chime in here I'm sure.



The reason why it may look like it was used for something other than splitting is that I had to use a sledge hammer on the knife edge just to get it off the splitter rail.

I sent an email with pictures over to Kevin in the Speeco engineering department. Just no reply yet. I think this splitter is pretty old.


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## WiscWoody (Jun 28, 2014)

HeatsTwice said:


> The reason why it may look like it was used for something other than splitting is that I had to use a sledge hammer on the knife edge just to get it off the splitter rail.


That explains it then!


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## TreePointer (Jun 29, 2014)

I wonder if someone installed a GRADE 8 bolt instead of GRADE 5?  

These splitters are designed such that bolt is supposed to shear before the wedge or any other part is damaged.


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## mike van (Jun 29, 2014)

The bolt actually looks too small, loose in the hydraulic ram, and the hole is all egged out on the wedge.  40 cords, 5 years is really light use, my opinion. Two rams you've been through?


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## blades (Jun 29, 2014)

It can be rebuilt, better than new, we have the technology.  Any local fab shop can repair for you. Best to find some small outfit.   Might check the local craiglist in your area in the services section.


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## HeatsTwice (Jun 29, 2014)

mike van said:


> The bolt actually looks too small, loose in the hydraulic ram, and the hole is all egged out on the wedge.  40 cords, 5 years is really light use, my opinion. Two rams you've been through?



Well, like I said, I bought the splitter used. Who knows what it had been through before then. The cylinder it came with sprung a pin hole leak, soon after I bought it. Its been great over all. But its so old that when I try to get parts at Tractor Supply, they just roll their eyes.


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## WiscWoody (Jun 29, 2014)

I like a challenge... What's the model number of the splitter?


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## WiscWoody (Jun 29, 2014)

If you look at this manual there's a parts breakdown. Does the wedge look like yours?

http://www.farmexinc.com/whitepapers/S401622BL Manual_Revised_2012.pdf


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## HeatsTwice (Jun 29, 2014)

WiscWoody said:


> If you look at this manual there's a parts breakdown. Does the wedge look like yours?
> 
> http://www.farmexinc.com/whitepapers/S401622BL Manual_Revised_2012.pdf



Yes, thanks, this looks a lot like mine although it has more modern features.

btw, the serial number plate shown on page 14 of that splitter is not on mine. Nor can I find the model number.  Can't seem to find them anywhere - even checked the bottom of the I beam.

Btw, I like a challenge also. Its nice to get dirty with machines like this on the weekend after a week as a computer jockey.


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## WiscWoody (Jun 29, 2014)

HeatsTwice said:


> Yes, thanks, this looks a lot like mine although it has more modern features.
> 
> btw, the serial number plate shown on page 14 of that splitter is not on mine. Nor can I find the model number.  Can't seem to find them anywhere - even checked the bottom of the I beam.
> 
> Btw, I like a challenge also. Its nice to get dirty with machines like this on the weekend after a week as a computer jockey.


If you go to that farmexinc site there are other Speeco splitters that look like yours. You can look at there manuals and maybe find an exact match. Good luck!


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## Jags (Jun 30, 2014)

I don't believe the bolt is what is taking the pressure during the "push" phase.  I think it is there for the "retract".  That bolt (even the enlarged hole) is WAY too small to take that kind of pressure.  I use 1-1/4 pins.

Even if you have to have custom work, it shouldn't really be a big project. I could have that fixed in an hour or two.


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## TreePointer (Jun 30, 2014)

Jags said:


> I don't believe the bolt is what is taking the pressure during the "push" phase.  I think it is there for the "retract".  That bolt (even the enlarged hole) is WAY too small to take that kind of pressure.  I use 1-1/4 pins.



That does make sense.


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## Jags (Jun 30, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> That does make sense.



The manual states a 1/2" hex bolt - yeah, that ain't for pushing.


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## TreePointer (Jun 30, 2014)

They do want something stronger than GR2 in there.  My manual specifies GR5.  Retracting with a stuck log can get troublesome.


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## Firewood Bandit (Jul 1, 2014)

Amazing display of abuse!

Goes to show why one shouldn't share tools with others.


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## JoeyD (Jul 2, 2014)

I have a Huskee splitter that had a wedge collapse, no where near as bad as yours and Speeco replaced it under warranty. They told me they had a batch that was not reinforced internally the way they should have been. To me it looks like yours was missing something inside also but since you bought used you are on your own. They should be able to sell you a replacement though.

Really though, after it started to collapse or come apart, how long did you keep using it?


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## HeatsTwice (Jul 3, 2014)

Firewood Bandit said:


> Amazing display of abuse!Goes to show why one shouldn't share tools with others.



Sure the guy that borrowed it is a bit of a duffis but every time it breaks, he throws money at me until I fix it. So what the hey.

>Really though, after it started to collapse or come apart, how long did you keep using it?

I didn't Mr. Duffis did. I came home a week later and he showed it to me.

Another neighbor was the one who put the wrong size bolt in. But the wedge was failing long before the new bolt. Like JoeyD indicates the wedge had a hollow center and thats what failed.

So Mr. Duffis has been renting another splitter while mine is out. I took a picture of the wedge on the one he had (below) and will have a machine shop build a new one like it ($300)

Btw, I called Speeco and was told that they no longer make that wedge and do not have any in stock. Their advise was to buy a new splitter. But for $1500 I am going to take a chance on building a new wedge. The splitter is in pretty good shape otherwise. 8 HP honda, new cylinder, good pump and hoses. It still has some life left in it.

I will post pictures of the new wedge once I get it.


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## Bret Chase (Jul 9, 2014)

I would build it differently (i.e. less expensively).  What I would do, is instead of milling down a 3x3 section of bar stock... is make the blade out of inch material, flame cut it, grind it, mill it (whatever) to a point.  put the socket on the back of the blade, drill the hole so the ram hits the back of the blade fully. use the bolt to retract the blade only  finally, weld on a 2X3 angle on either side as spreaders.  while my spillter's cylinder has a yoke on both ends, this is the basic configuration of the splitter blade.  it hasn't failed in 40 years or so....


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## HeatsTwice (Jul 10, 2014)

Bret Chase said:


> I would build it differently (i.e. less expensively).  What I would do, is instead of milling down a 3x3 section of bar stock... is make the blade out of inch material, flame cut it, grind it, mill it (whatever) to a point.  put the socket on the back of the blade, drill the hole so the ram hits the back of the blade fully. use the bolt to retract the blade only  finally, weld on a 2X3 angle on either side as spreaders.  while my spillter's cylinder has a yoke on both ends, this is the basic configuration of the splitter blade.  it hasn't failed in 40 years or so....




Any pictures of your wedge? I could pass it on to the machinists to get the assembly more clear. Great idea.


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## Bret Chase (Jul 10, 2014)

here ya go....





your ram will not, under any circumstance, crush the 1" blade configured this way.


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## HeatsTwice (Jul 10, 2014)

Bret Chase said:


> here ya go....
> View attachment 135269
> 
> View attachment 135270
> ...



Brilliant!!

I will make the suggestion to the machine shop. Wow this site is great. I would never have thought of that solution without your help!

Thanks alot.


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## aussiedog3 (Jul 17, 2014)

Jags said:


> I don't believe the bolt is what is taking the pressure during the "push" phase.  I think it is there for the "retract".  That bolt (even the enlarged hole) is WAY too small to take that kind of pressure.  I use 1-1/4 pins.
> 
> Even if you have to have custom work, it shouldn't really be a big project. I could have that fixed in an hour or two.


Yes the ram should have been pushing on what was once a flat plate on the backside of the wedge.


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## clemsonfor (Jul 18, 2014)

Just weld a new wedge onto it that you buy or custom make


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## HeatsTwice (Jul 24, 2014)

Got the new wedge back today. Total bill $200. Great deal considering.... I checked it out on the same peice of Eucolyptus that busted the first wedge. It split it with no problem.


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## TreePointer (Jul 24, 2014)

Looks nice and beefy.  Thanks for posting the picture of your solution.


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## HeatsTwice (Jul 24, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> Looks nice and beefy.  Thanks for posting the picture of your solution.



He made it an inch higher and moved the knife edge closer to the plate front as I asked - even though doing so violates OSHA requirements of 1.5" back from the front of the plate. It was just such a pain not being able to split through to the end of rounds.

He also did what Mr. Chase suggested - which was to have the ram contact the back of the wedge during the push cycle, only using the bolt for the pull cycle.

Thanks Bret.


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## HeatsTwice (Jul 24, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> Looks nice and beefy.  Thanks for posting the picture of your solution.



Also I feel I should give a "plug" for the machine shop that did the work. Their name is Barndt's Welding of Santa Rosa and of the 4 different shops I talked to  they had the best bid and seemed to know the most about what to do. Evidently they had done many of these in the past and I didn't have to spend a lot of time explaining what I wanted. Larry over there just said: "Don't worry about it, we know what to do" - and they did. Their staff was very knowledgeable also.


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## Jags (Jul 25, 2014)

Nice.  That is gonna work just fine for a long time.


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## Bret Chase (Nov 28, 2014)

HeatsTwice said:


> He made it an inch higher and moved the knife edge closer to the plate front as I asked - even though doing so violates OSHA requirements of 1.5" back from the front of the plate. It was just such a pain not being able to split through to the end of rounds.
> 
> He also did what Mr. Chase suggested - which was to have the ram contact the back of the wedge during the push cycle, only using the bolt for the pull cycle.
> 
> Thanks Bret.



Welcome (sorry, been away for a while)


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## Grateful11 (Apr 5, 2015)

You said you used a sledge hammer to beat the wedge out of the slide. I would suggest if anyone has to do that again that they put a piece of wood on the wedge and hit on the wood not a hardened sledge hammer against a sharpened steel wedge. If it were a flat surface you would probably be fine but I'm surprised something didn't chip off the wedge while beating on it.

I know a guy that was beating on a piece steel somewhat similar to that situation and a metal shard popped off and he felt a slight stinging sensation in his stomach area. He didn't really think too much about it but noticed when he changed clothes he had a small cut in his skin. Within 2 days he was having emergency surgery to remove that metal shard from the lining of his stomach. He said the pain had gone beyond anything he could handle and knew something was going on.


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## Wildo (Apr 5, 2015)

Grateful11 said:


> You said you used a sledge hammer to beat the wedge out of the slide. I would suggest if anyone has to do that again that they put a piece of wood on the wedge and hit on the wood not a hardened sledge hammer against a sharpened steel wedge. If it were a flat surface you would probably be fine but I'm surprised something didn't chip off the wedge while beating on it.
> 
> I know a guy that was beating on a piece steel somewhat similar to that situation and a metal shard popped off and he felt a slight stinging sensation in his stomach area. He didn't really think too much about it but noticed when he changed clothes he had a small cut in his skin. Within 2 days he was having emergency surgery to remove that metal shard from the lining of his stomach. He said the pain had gone beyond anything he could handle and knew something was going on.



I had something similar happen with a brush saw and a rock  and I didn't know until I felt a line of blood running down my arm.  It took me an hour with a razor and tweezers to get it out( over 1/2 inch in).


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