# T5 performance update



## raybonz (Jan 3, 2013)

The T5 has been remarkably efficient and consistent so far. Last night it was breezy and 8 degrees. At 6PM I raked the coals forward then packed the 2.0 cu. ft. firebox full. I came downstairs at 4AM and found loads of coals and the blower purring happily along. Stove top was around 250 degrees. The temperature in my home was 69 degrees both up and downstairs. I raked the coals forward and loaded the stove again and had secondaries lit in less than 10 minutes.. Lowered the air all the way down and headed to work..Getting 10 hr. burns with the T5 with good dry hardwood is very easy to do and feel I could probably go 11-12 hrs. easily. Interestingly wind seems to have little affect on my burn rate. I have no idea why this happens but it's a good thing! On another note I replaced the 3 back pumice firebricks in the back of the stove with hard ceramic bricks from TSC and I haven't noticed any difference. The bricks in the back take much abuse than any of the soft bricks so I will leave them there and will keep the rest of pumice bricks for the sides and bottom.

Ray


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## begreen (Jan 3, 2013)

Excellent. It sounds like you have the stove dialed in perfectly Ray, nice work.


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## Todd 2 (Jan 3, 2013)

Hi Ray, sounds like she's working great for you, usually when the wind does not mess with your burn that means you have a great combination stove/chimney setup. 
Sure beats paying the wallet robbing gas/oil/electric/... bill when the mercury drops

Todd


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## Hearth Mistress (Jan 3, 2013)

Did you end up replacing the gasket? I am big fan of forward raking myself, it reduces my wood consumption and increased my burn time by a few hours, literally. Isn't nice when your stove is running warm and cozy?


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## raybonz (Jan 3, 2013)

Hearth Mistress said:


> Did you end up replacing the gasket? I am big fan of forward raking myself, it reduces my wood consumption and increased my burn time by a few hours, literally. Isn't nice when your stove is running warm and cozy?


Haven't replaced any gaskets.. Are you asking Todd or me that question HM? I feel confident that this stove can keep my home warm in below zero temps which we get occasionally here..

Ray


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## corey21 (Jan 3, 2013)

Glad to hear your doing good with the stove.


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## Hearth Mistress (Jan 3, 2013)

Hearth Mistress said:


> Did you end up replacing the gasket? I am big fan of forward raking myself, it reduces my wood consumption and increased my burn time by a few hours, literally. Isn't nice when your stove is running warm and cozy?


Oops, too many threads in my head  Someone the other posted a problem with their T5 and the gaskets. Pay no attention to that woman behind the thread......


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## Nocattom (Jan 4, 2013)

hay ray, what is you avrg stove top tamp. My T5  seams to take at least an hour to shut the air down ( all the way right ) no smoke out of chimny and second d burn, before I feel comfortable leaving. Is it just me or dose smoke = creosote ! 

Why replace the bricks?


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## jetmech (Jan 4, 2013)

I am getting the same results Ray with my T5, i had to replace my rear fire bricks due to 2 of them being cracked, it was from me hitting them during loading. I have also modified my primary air, as was discussed in another thread , to close it off a little more. Its a great stove and easy to operate... mine is hooked to 16 feet of straight up pipe and heat a large ranch house pretty well. it sits in a large room around 500 sq feet .


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## etiger2007 (Jan 4, 2013)

Sounds great Ray, how many splits are packing in there and what size?


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## raybonz (Jan 4, 2013)

Nocattom said:


> hay ray, what is you avrg stove top tamp. My T5 seams to take at least an hour to shut the air down ( all the way right ) no smoke out of chimny and second d burn, before I feel comfortable leaving. Is it just me or dose smoke = creosote !
> 
> Why replace the bricks?


Stovetop normally runs between 400-650 degrees and I don't pay much attention to that to be honest. I focus on the stack temps and keep an eye on the secondaries those are the best indicators of good burning. As for the firebricks cracking in the back of of the stove either I or my wife got too ambitious loading wood thus cracking 2 out of 3 bricks. I decided to replace all 3 in the back with hard ceramic bricks and so far so good with no ill affects. Once your secondaries are going the smoke will stop. If your smoke dissipates with 10' or so it is probably just vapors and not smoke..
Ray


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## raybonz (Jan 4, 2013)

etiger2007 said:


> Sounds great Ray, how many splits are packing in there and what size?


I try to pick larger splits, rounds then pack smaller stuff in between, as much as  possible but leave a space near the baffle.. You want air space but not a lot...

Ray


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## raybonz (Jan 4, 2013)

jetmech said:


> I am getting the same results Ray with my T5, i had to replace my rear fire bricks due to 2 of them being cracked, it was from me hitting them during loading. I have also modified my primary air, as was discussed in another thread , to close it off a little more. Its a great stove and easy to operate... mine is hooked to 16 feet of straight up pipe and heat a large ranch house pretty well. it sits in a large room around 500 sq feet .


Did you replace the bricks with pumice or hard bricks JM? Good to hear others are seeing what I see..

Ray


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## etiger2007 (Jan 4, 2013)

raybonz said:


> Stovetop normally runs between 400-650 degrees and I don't pay much attention to that to be honest. I focus on the stack temps and keep an eye on the secondaries those are the best indicators of good burning. As for the firebricks cracking in the back of of the stove either I or my wife got too ambitious loading wood thus cracking 2 out of 3 bricks. I decided to replace all 3 in the back with hard ceramic bricks and so far so good with no ill affects. Once your secondaries are going the smoke will stop. If your smoke dissipates with 10' or so it is probably just vapors and not smoke..
> Ray


 
Is yours an insert? if so what speed do you run your blower?


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## raybonz (Jan 4, 2013)

etiger2007 said:


> Is yours an insert? if so what speed do you run your blower?


Freestanding with blower running at low speed.. Only run blower when cold..


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## BrowningBAR (Jan 4, 2013)

I would still like to see what it's like driving three T6 stoves in this place. The T-Series stoves look so neat and the reported burn times are really impressive.


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## begreen (Jan 4, 2013)

Oh oh!


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## Nocattom (Jan 6, 2013)

raybonz said:


> Stovetop normally runs between 400-650 degrees and I don't pay much attention to that to be honest. I focus on the stack temps and keep an eye on the secondaries those are the best indicators of good burning. As for the firebricks cracking in the back of of the stove either I or my wife got too ambitious loading wood thus cracking 2 out of 3 bricks. I decided to replace all 3 in the back with hard ceramic bricks and so far so good with no ill affects. Once your secondaries are going the smoke will stop. If your smoke dissipates with 10' or so it is probably just vapors and not smoke..
> Ray


Thaks Ray,

Yes the smoke does dissipates with 10' or so. Thank you


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## raybonz (Jan 6, 2013)

Nocattom said:


> Thaks Ray,
> 
> Yes the smoke does dissipates with 10' or so. Thank you


The vapors should be white not blue.. If they are white and dissipate in 10' you're good to go. You will see this more in the beginning of the burn..

Ray


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## loon (Jan 10, 2013)

raybonz said:


> I try to pick larger splits, rounds then pack smaller stuff in between, as much as possible but leave a space near the baffle.. You want air space but not a lot...
> 
> Ray


 
I am going to dig out some splits tonight in the carport as the first big row is all rounds and thats all i have been burning since this thing has been working right for me.
Then try out loading the T5 in this manner Ray.

Terry


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## jetmech (Jan 10, 2013)

I am getting same results Ray, i load mine around 6pm no higher than top of firebricks but wall to wall with dry hardwood. i am up early as i start work at 5:30am, this morning my house was 69 degrees and had good coal bed to reload. i loaded around 3:30 am... when i come back home at 3 pm fire will be almost out. but its a easy stove to get going again... thats pretty much been my routine.. i run around 650 top temp and my single wall can get hot if i dont keep a eye on it, i usually shut down in 2 or 3 stages  try to keep pipe below 500 temp.


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## Woody Stover (Jan 10, 2013)

raybonz said:


> Freestanding with blower running at low speed.. Only run blower when cold..


That answers one question I had; Sounds like it puts out quite a bit of heat even without the blower on. Another SIL just bought a house and would like to put a stove in. I don't yet know the exact layout or the tightness and insulation but it's only 1200 sq.ft. so the T5 might be a bit big for her in our climate? That burn time would be nice...she works long days. I think she might like an enamel stove, that's one reason I was looking at the Alderleas. I also wonder how much more wood it would use compared to a cat stove, since I may have to supply her with wood.   I was kind of under the impression that the Alderleas were pretty stingy with wood, and could also be run at a moderate output if desired (although jetmech sounds like his runs warm.)


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## jetmech (Jan 10, 2013)

Its not my intention to run that hot but at times with a good sized load in firebox thats where it cruises, i dont think 650 is too hot for this stove, if it goes much above that i will run my blower and it cools quickly.


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## begreen (Jan 10, 2013)

Woody Stover said:


> That answers one question I had; Sounds like it puts out quite a bit of heat even without the blower on. Another SIL just bought a house and would like to put a stove in. I don't yet know the exact layout or the tightness and insulation but it's only 1200 sq.ft. so the T5 might be a bit big for her in our climate? That burn time would be nice...she works long days. I think she might like an enamel stove, that's one reason I was looking at the Alderleas. I also wonder how much more wood it would use compared to a cat stove, since I may have to supply her with wood.  I was kind of under the impression that the Alderleas were pretty stingy with wood, and could also be run at a moderate output if desired (although jetmech sounds like his runs warm.)


 
The T5 would work for her, but she would be running partial loads unless it was very cold outside. If all day while she's away burning is desired I would also look at a Woodstock Keystone.


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## sblat (Jan 10, 2013)

jetmech said:


> i dont think 650 is too hot for this stove, if it goes much above that i will run my blower and it cools quickly.​


 
650 is pretty easy for this stove to hit with out the fan on.  I usually run mine on low all the time, or atleast during the cold months.  I feel it pushes the heat out better for my house.  I can run mine at 600-650 with the blower on for an hour before it settles down in the 500 range.  Holds coals for a really long time.


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## loon (Jan 13, 2013)

The Rockets are working great tonite Ray.. Buddy gave me a hand though


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## raybonz (Jan 13, 2013)

Lookin' good Terry  Think I will be asking you advice on the T5 before too long 

Ray


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## loon (Jan 14, 2013)

Filled the stove this morning the way you mentioned and still had alot of fire left when i got home from work


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## raybonz (Jan 14, 2013)

loon said:


> Filled the stove this morning the way you mentioned and still had alot of fire left when i got home from work


Awesome so how many hours did she go?

Ray


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## loon (Jan 14, 2013)

9 and a half Ray and turned it up for about another hour before i added any wood  Very happy 

Terry


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## raybonz (Jan 14, 2013)

loon said:


> 9 and a half Ray and turned it up for about another hour before i added any wood  Very happy
> 
> Terry


This is great Terry and the burn times I see all the time here! You really can get 10+ hr. burn times with the T5 which is excellent for a secondary burn stove with a 2.0 cu. ft. firebox There are more efficient stoves but not by much. PE got this design right for sure 

Ray


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## loon (Jan 14, 2013)

I didnt get the secondary going before i left for work.I just filled it up and shut it down.So not sure how it looked throughout the day?

Supposed to get colder this week so hoping the house will be as warm then as it was late this afternoon


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## raybonz (Jan 14, 2013)

loon said:


> I didnt get the secondary going before i left for work.I just filled it up and shut it down.So not sure how it looked throughout the day?
> 
> Supposed to get colder this week so hoping the house will be as warm then as it was late this afternoon


I suggest you get the wood charred and the secondaries going and it will burn from the top down. You can then leave for work or the stove could be smouldering all day Terry..

Ray


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## loon (Jan 15, 2013)

I am still a little leary on the stove top temp i got last week Ray..

The stove had 3 medium rounds with half the box open and the temp soared to 780f.

What i'll do today is gonna be the same but when i get home i will reload full and get the secondary going and see what happens over the evening.


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## Oldhippie (Jan 15, 2013)

Geezum, you guys get up way too early in the morning, But God bless ya for doing that, I love hearing how the evil oil man don't gotta' come to your house.


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## loon (Jan 15, 2013)

Oldhippie said:


> I love hearing how the evil oil man don't gotta' come to your house.


 
Havent seen that guy in almost 12 years hippie 

loon


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## jetmech (Jan 15, 2013)

Loon are you using mag thermo or ir gun, sometimes the magnetic thermos can read a little high.... just curious. lately i have been running mine from pipe temp and what fire looks like. that might sound hokey but its been working. i will shoot my top from time to time in mid cruise and its usually around 600 with 5 splits.


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## loon (Jan 15, 2013)

jetmech said:


> Loon are you using mag thermo or ir gun, sometimes the magnetic thermos can read a little high.... just curious. lately i have been running mine from pipe temp and what fire looks like. that might sound hokey but its been working. i will shoot my top from time to time in mid cruise and its usually around 600 with 5 splits.


 



loon said:


> Both are reading right on gang..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Had one out the other night jetmech and they were reading fine..But it wasn't nearly as high of temp as the 780f night.

Will try it again tonight


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## loon (Jan 15, 2013)

Ok.. Got home and pulled what i could up front then filled it almost full with 2 medium splits and 3 small rounds 'Dead Elm' Got the secondary going and will see what go's on tonight 

This was about 10 after 4 and about 95% shut down.


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## raybonz (Jan 15, 2013)

loon said:


> I am still a little leary on the stove top temp i got last week Ray..
> 
> The stove had 3 medium rounds with half the box open and the temp soared to 780f.
> 
> What i'll do today is gonna be the same but when i get home i will reload full and get the secondary going and see what happens over the evening.


I have the feeling your whole load is going at once by those temps Terry.. Rake ALL HOT coals forward then try to use larger splits placed directly on the bottom with NO hot coals under them. Pack up the firebox then push the coals towards the wood.. Let the fire get going good then start lowering your air 1/4 at a time but make sure you have secondaries burning good onto the wood directly beneath the baffle. Make sure the wood chars up good then lower down as low as possible ensuring the secondaries stay lit. The whole process takes around 30 minutes and sometimes less depending on the wood and amount of coals. What will happen is the fire will shift to mostly burning at the top. You see the stove top temp rise but it will settle down in a little while.. You may want to try this when you have the time to watch the fire to see that it all happens. Stop over and I'll show you how it's done  

Ray


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## madison (Jan 15, 2013)

loon,

you can minimize the continued rusting of the stove top and trivet if you remove that 3 qt pot.

IMHO, it add's diddlysquat in relative humidity but royally damages the stove top and trivet. I stopped the stove top kettle routine after one season when I started noticing the rust stains and switched to whole house unit. The rusting has not progressed after removing the kettle.

the whole house unit easily humidifies and actually takes some of the fine ash dust out of the air and traps it in the filter.

And Cool pictures, thanks for those!

Does the dog poke the fire when you are away?

Lastly, I assume that is single wall pipe exiting the stove?


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## loon (Jan 15, 2013)

AAARRRGGGHHH This thing is tricky Ray  

I had a ton of hot coals when i got home and a good quarter of the bottom was covered in them as you can kinda see in the picture when i loaded it up.. I will try again tomorrow but wont fill the box that much before work.

I didnt know about the bottom of the wood being free of hot coals?

Thanks again 

If me and Buddy leave right now i think we can make to your house about midnight?


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## loon (Jan 15, 2013)

Yes the pipe is single as i didnt trust the double wall last year. And thanks for the information madison


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## raybonz (Jan 15, 2013)

loon said:


> AAARRRGGGHHH This thing is tricky Ray
> 
> I had a ton of hot coals when i got home and a good quarter of the bottom was covered in them as you can kinda see in the picture when i loaded it up.. I will try again tomorrow but wont fill the box that much before work.
> 
> ...


LOL see you then! I think you have lots of coals so your entire load of wood is burning at once and that creates alot of heat.. I allow for 10 hr. burns so I don't have a crazy amount of coals.. You're doing fine tell Buddy to keep up the good work! 

Ray


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## loon (Jan 15, 2013)

Just shut it off Ray and have a nice slow secondary going. But i just shot it and the stove top thermometer was reading 750f but right beside it was this??


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## loon (Jan 15, 2013)

I think Boomer plays with the fire when no one is around madison? As he does what he wants in the house


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## raybonz (Jan 15, 2013)

Terry did you verify that the temp is what the gauge says again too? BTW the IR guns are more accurate if you shoot straight down and not on an angle..Those temps don't make sense to me.. How can the temp be that different that far apart??  Wish someone else would add to this.. Madison what do you think about this? I would send email Tom at this site http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/index.php he is very knowledgeable of PE products and see what he thinks or you could call him..

Ray


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## loon (Jan 15, 2013)

Just did it Ray and its still off alot? The one on the pipe was reading right on and i just put it beside the one on the stove.

Here is the one thats still reading wrong.


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## raybonz (Jan 15, 2013)

I have a thought and it is perhaps your seeing the flue temp as your really close to the flue collar.. I think you're worrying about nothing and I will take some readings with my IR gun to see how it looks here. I do notice a lot of temp variation up top too and this may be perfectly normal. I would think if there was a heat problem the paint would discolor (discolour for you  ).. BG, Certified106 and Hogz have the T6 along with Madison and others and I wonder what they think and hope they give their thoughts..

Ray


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## Oldhippie (Jan 15, 2013)

loon said:


> Havent seen that guy in almost 12 years hippie
> 
> loon


 
That is wicked pi%#&ah! As we say here around Bah'stin. They got a new evil oil man, he is even uglier than the one you saw 10 years ago! Yeah! Stephen King can't make up anyone even close to this ugly!

You da' boss man Loon! You da' boss!


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## Oldhippie (Jan 15, 2013)

loon said:


> Ok.. Got home and pulled what i could up front then filled it almost full with 2 medium splits and 3 small rounds 'Dead Elm' Got the secondary going and will see what go's on tonight
> 
> This was about 10 after 4 and about 95% shut down.


 
_Now there's a hearth to write home about!_


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## loon (Jan 15, 2013)

raybonz said:


> I have a thought and it is perhaps your seeing the flue temp as your really close to the flue collar.. I think you're worrying about nothing and I will take some readings with my IR gun to see how it looks here. I do notice a lot of temp variation up top too and this may be perfectly normal. I would think if there was a heat problem the paint would discolor (discolour for you  ).. BG, Certified106 and Hogz have the T6 along with Madison and others and I wonder what they think and hope they give their thoughts..
> 
> Ray


 

Sounds good thanks..The pair of them are reading pretty much the same now and its 450f on the stove but the ir is reading 410f.

Terry


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## loon (Jan 15, 2013)

Thanks Oldhippie  Got all the rock off one of my Buddies farm as all i have here is thin shale and it wasnt gonna cut it


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## raybonz (Jan 15, 2013)

loon said:


> Sounds good thanks..The pair of them are reading pretty much the same now and its 450f on the stove but the ir is reading 410f.
> 
> Terry


OK there is a wide temperature variation on just the left side alone and within a small area which is probably what you're seeing there, eh (I speak a little Canadian too)? Right now I am seeing temps from 400-550 degrees. Am I concerned? Nope I think this is normal and probably normal for many stoves.. I suspect I may see what you see too and the stove top probably levels out after a while.. If the stove was glowing red I'd be more concerned but my cooktop used to glow red around the cat probe on my old CDW and that was cast iron.. Did it for over 20 years and it didn't hurt it either.. Check your temps under the left side and see if your seeing the same variation Terry..

Ray


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## loon (Jan 15, 2013)

Canadian Eh!! 

Remember when i told you about the stove being short of insulation up on the top left of the baffle, I wonder if that has anything to do with it?  The top left of stove right now is reading 390f and the right is 415f..


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## raybonz (Jan 15, 2013)

loon said:


> Canadian Eh!!
> 
> Remember when i told you about the stove being short of insulation up on the top left of the baffle, I wonder if that has anything to do with it? The top left of stove right now is reading 390f and the right is 415f..


Sounds fine to me.. Sent you a PM..

Ray


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## loon (Jan 16, 2013)

At it again tonight gang and i dont mean to bore ya's but i have been burning wood for some 25 years and i just cant figure this new stove out? 

The first picture is at 4 pm and the second is an hour later with the stove top reading around 560f/600f on the ir and the pipe is reading 300f with the air 95% shut..

NOT going to touch anything till bedtime and see where its at 

Terry


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## raybonz (Jan 16, 2013)

Dunno Terry looks like your stove is working fine to me


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## loon (Jan 16, 2013)

I lied Ray as i wasnt gonna touch it, but about 10 minutes ago i shut the air off tight and its even a better secondary burn right now


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## raybonz (Jan 16, 2013)

loon said:


> I lied Ray as i wasnt gonna touch it, but about 10 minutes ago i shut the air off tight and its even a better secondary burn right now


There ya go! This is a good thing! I let it cruise a little while about 1/8th open then when the wood is charred good I close the air and keep an eye that the secondaries stay lit.. Sometimes I have to give air again if I do this too soon..


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## begreen (Jan 16, 2013)

When I have a fire display that strong I close her all the way. If you stuff the gaps with smaller splits you can extend the burn sometimes even longer.


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## loon (Jan 16, 2013)

Good information..Thanks guys.

Its still got a nice lazy burn going on


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## L-93 (Jan 16, 2013)

Just want to say Hi. This is my first post on here. Got my T5 installed in October and this stove is awesome. This is my first stove and love watching the oil trucks pass right on by. I did a lot of reading on these forums before we bought the T5 and can definitely say it was a great choice. Thanks for all of the great info! I am getting 7-9 hr overnights w/o any of the adjustments I've read about. Have 8' of class A inside and 10' outside, all straight up through the roof. Stove top temps run 400-650° F on average. I have had it up to 725° and was watching it very closely, changing the air to learn what the stove would do. We're burning seasoned red oak, maple and some hickory. I just got a moisture meter to play around with but can easily tell when a cut isn't as seasoned as the others.    Thanks again for the great info guys!


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## begreen (Jan 16, 2013)

loon said:


> Good information..Thanks guys.
> 
> Its still got a nice lazy burn going on


 
Have you tried loading the stove E/W on a reload yet? If not, try that on a day when it's in the 20's or 30s and see how that works out for you. It should extend the burn by an hour or two at least. The stove top temp may also be about 100F cooler, say around 450 to 550F.


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## raybonz (Jan 16, 2013)

Loaded up for a medium heat overnight burn.


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## begreen (Jan 16, 2013)

L-93 said:


> Just want to say Hi. This is my first post on here. Got my T5 installed in October and this stove is awesome. This is my first stove and love watching the oil trucks pass right on by. I did a lot of reading on these forums before we bought the T5 and can definitely say it was a great choice. Thanks for all of the great info! I am getting 7-9 hr overnights w/o any of the adjustments I've read about. Have 8' of class A inside and 10' outside, all straight up through the roof. Stove top temps run 400-650° F on average. I have had it up to 725° and was watching it very closely, changing the air to learn what the stove would do. We're burning seasoned red oak, maple and some hickory. I just got a moisture meter to play around with but can easily tell when a cut isn't as seasoned as the others. Thanks again for the great info guys!


 
Welcome. It's a great stove. I'm glad to hear that you're enjoying it. Take a picture or two and post them if you get a chance.


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## raybonz (Jan 16, 2013)

L-93 said:


> Just want to say Hi. This is my first post on here. Got my T5 installed in October and this stove is awesome. This is my first stove and love watching the oil trucks pass right on by. I did a lot of reading on these forums before we bought the T5 and can definitely say it was a great choice. Thanks for all of the great info! I am getting 7-9 hr overnights w/o any of the adjustments I've read about. Have 8' of class A inside and 10' outside, all straight up through the roof. Stove top temps run 400-650° F on average. I have had it up to 725° and was watching it very closely, changing the air to learn what the stove would do. We're burning seasoned red oak, maple and some hickory. I just got a moisture meter to play around with but can easily tell when a cut isn't as seasoned as the others. Thanks again for the great info guys!


Welcome to the forum L-93 and congrats on your new new stove! As BG mentioned we like pics and would love to see your setup  Good to see another happy Alderlea wood burner and with the upcoming cold you'll get to see it run..

Ray


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## Oldhippie (Jan 16, 2013)

loon said:


> Thanks Oldhippie  Got all the rock off one of my Buddies farm as all i have here is thin shale and it wasnt gonna cut it


 
it's awesome. that you personally got the stone makes it even better because then it's got soul.

The brick in my hearth comes from a burned down mill that was destroyed by a huge fire. I loaded the bricks into my pick-up to get them to my house under construction, and then played apprentice to a mason to put the chimney and hearth up. I chipped the mortar off and cleaned each brick by hand.


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## raybonz (Jan 16, 2013)

Cool story OH! Nice chimney too!


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## Oldhippie (Jan 16, 2013)

L-93 said:


> ....(cut out all the other stuff)..This is my first stove and love watching the oil trucks pass right on by.....blah blah all about stoves blah blah..


 
Welcome!

Watch out for the Evil Oil Man!! He is UUUUUUUUUUUUgly!


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## L-93 (Jan 16, 2013)

Before and after:


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## raybonz (Jan 16, 2013)

Looks great L-93! I like the flush look of the hearth..

Ray


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## L-93 (Jan 16, 2013)

raybonz said:


> Looks great L-93! I like the flush look of the hearth..
> 
> Ray


 
Thanks. Did everything but the changes to the hardwood in-house. Do any of you use the ash pan? I haven't used the "ash door" once. Have to shovel out ash every 3-5 days, but I worry about a coal getting stuck in the trap door and then loading for an overnight not knowing there is additional air getting to the fire...thoughts?


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## L-93 (Jan 16, 2013)

here's the pipe set up


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## begreen (Jan 16, 2013)

Sweet, that's a nice installation L-93.


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## loon (Jan 16, 2013)

begreen said:


> Have you tried loading the stove E/W on a reload yet? If not, try that on a day when it's in the 20's or 30s and see how that works out for you. It should extend the burn by an hour or two at least. The stove top temp may also be about 100F cooler, say around 450 to 550F.


 
Not yet bg but will give it a try for sure 

Thanks hippie and yours looks great with a ton of work to boot 

Nice set-up L-93..

Just topped it off Ray and got the secondary going and will see how it is when i get up?

Terry


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## raybonz (Jan 16, 2013)

L-93 said:


> Thanks. Did everything but the changes to the hardwood in-house. Do any of you use the ash pan? I haven't used the "ash door" once. Have to shovel out ash every 3-5 days, but I worry about a coal getting stuck in the trap door and then loading for an overnight not knowing there is additional air getting to the fire...thoughts?


Nope just as easy to shovel out..

Ray


----------



## begreen (Jan 16, 2013)

raybonz said:


> Nope just as easy to shovel out..


 


raybonz said:


> Nope just as easy to shovel out..
> 
> Ray


 
Easier. I shovel ours out every other week.


----------



## Oldhippie (Jan 16, 2013)

raybonz said:


> Cool story OH! Nice chimney too!


 
Thanks Ray. I learned a lot from that mason. He was a big old retired guy with a great sense of humor.


----------



## certified106 (Jan 18, 2013)

L93, that looks awesome! You will really enjoy that stove!


----------



## loon (Jan 18, 2013)

After almost 10hrs today   House is warm and it was -16c when i got up and -6c right now 

Thanks for all the help gang! 

loon


----------



## loon (Jan 18, 2013)

Guess we gotta get a bigger bed for Boomer and Buddy 

And me and Emma splitting some fillers for the T5


----------



## raybonz (Jan 18, 2013)

Nice to have rounds that size Loon.. Could use some like that here but very few in the stacks.. Perfect for overnight burns!

Ray


----------



## corey21 (Jan 18, 2013)

raybonz said:


> Nice to have rounds that size Loon.. Could use some like that here but very few in the stacks.. Perfect for overnight burns!
> 
> Ray


I split all my rounds it wold be nice to save some that size for long burns.


----------



## loon (Jan 18, 2013)

Have a couple more rows ready guys


----------



## begreen (Jan 18, 2013)

Good to hear that you are staying warm. That shot of Boomer and Buddy is priceless.

How long are you typically seasoning the rounds?


----------



## loon (Jan 19, 2013)

Another great over night burn bg 
The rounds are mostly dead no bark Elm and i would say 90% are from this year. I have to go into town tomorrow so i might stop into home depot and grab a moisture meter just for snickers 

All the wood is too long to do a E/W burn but i will head over to the farm and cut some shorts from the frozen swamp thats holding a large amount of dead small Elm trees..

And the pair of them are loving the stove as much as me now


----------



## raybonz (Jan 19, 2013)

loon said:


> Another great over night burn bg
> The rounds are mostly dead no bark Elm and i would say 90% are from this year. I have to go into town tomorrow so i might stop into home depot and grab a moisture meter just for snickers
> 
> All the wood is too long to do a E/W burn but i will head over to the farm and cut some shorts from the frozen swamp thats holding a large amount of dead small Elm trees..
> ...


Have fun splitting that elm to take a moisture reading 

Ray


----------



## jetmech (Jan 19, 2013)

Ditto on the elm, tears like muscle... sweet gum almost as bad.  I think if i loaded my t5 with oak or maple rounds like in the photo my pipe would go molten and melt.... just sayin


----------



## begreen (Jan 19, 2013)

jetmech, that's pretty much a standard load for us. You should be able to fill it as full. Do you have unusually strong draft? How much flue is there from the stove top to the flue cap?


----------



## jetmech (Jan 19, 2013)

Hey Begreen, i have just never loaded with wood that large, my splits are smaller... i usually never load above the firebrick.. if i load 7 or 8 splits on a coal bed at like 250 i have to monitor my flue temp. i have 16 feet of straight up single wall... i usually step down in 3 steps, i try to keep my pipe temps below 500 single wall. I loaded 7 last night and 9 hours later had coals to restart no problem. it was 24 degrees here last night .


----------



## loon (Jan 19, 2013)

After reading the last few posts it finally clicked in to leave the big rounds alone  Splitting the Ash splits for the fillers now  Gaaad i got my stupid hat on the past couple weeks 







Calling for brutal cold here starting Monday so i am back helping my Buddy across the road get some extra wood ready..His grain shed is loaded enough for the next 2 years, but he does worry


----------



## begreen (Jan 19, 2013)

jetmech said:


> Hey Begreen, i have just never loaded with wood that large, my splits are smaller... i usually never load above the firebrick.. if i load 7 or 8 splits on a coal bed at like 250 i have to monitor my flue temp. i have 16 feet of straight up single wall... i usually step down in 3 steps, i try to keep my pipe temps below 500 single wall. I loaded 7 last night and 9 hours later had coals to restart no problem. it was 24 degrees here last night .


 
Big splits are definitely better for a long burn. Lots of small splits will burn hotter and quicker, especially if they are loaded N/S. Give it a try and use the small splits to pack in the gaps between the larger ones.


----------



## loon (Jan 19, 2013)

begreen said:


> Big splits are definitely better for a long burn. Lots of small splits will burn hotter and quicker, especially if they are loaded N/S. Give it a try and use the small splits to pack in the gaps between the larger ones.


 

This thing couldnt be easier begreen 

 Now its fun playing with the times and different wood..I pack it tight as tight can be 

Havent put any wood in it since this morning and the house is still warm 

Gonna open the draft pretty soon just to get the ashes down for the all night burn 

loon


----------



## raybonz (Jan 19, 2013)

loon said:


> This thing couldnt be easier begreen
> 
> Now its fun playing with the times and different wood..I pack it tight as tight can be
> 
> ...


Looks like we have a T5 guru in our midst...

Ray


----------



## loon (Jan 19, 2013)

T


raybonz said:


> Looks like we have a T5 guru in our midst...
> 
> Ray


 

Thanks a bunch for all your help eh 

Terry


----------



## raybonz (Jan 19, 2013)

loon said:


> T
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You're welcome Terry glad it's working OK for you!

Ray


----------



## begreen (Jan 19, 2013)

One thing to pay attention to when packing tightly is the firebrick. This is pumice brick and based on what others are experiencing, it is not as tough as regular firebrick. To me that says, don't slam or force the wood in. Instead place it in. After 4 seasons we have the original bricks and no cracks yet so that method seems to be working well.


----------



## loon (Jan 19, 2013)

No sledge involved bg 

I know what you mean though as when i put them in was thinking they were mighty light?


----------



## jetmech (Jan 20, 2013)

I have learned that the hard way, i have replaced 2 of my rear firebricks due to hitting them too hard during loading... i have since lightend up a little....


----------



## raybonz (Jan 20, 2013)

jetmech said:


> I have learned that the hard way, i have replaced 2 of my rear firebricks due to hitting them too hard during loading... i have since lightend up a little....


Yup broke 2 here too.. I replaced the back 3 bricks with the hard ceramic bricks that I bought at TSC for $3.00 each.. Stove runs same as before and those bricks are MUCH harder and heavier than the pumice bricks..

Ray


----------



## jetmech (Jan 21, 2013)

Ok, so after reading posts on this thread i started loading largest splits i have on bottom and filling box with less air gaps and you guys were right... longer slower burns and had more and larger coal bed after 10 hours... i still am not loading above fire brick height but much tighter packed from left to right. thanks for the technique tips.  im burning oak and cherry all at 20 percent or lower moisture... always willing to learn.


----------



## raybonz (Jan 21, 2013)

jetmech said:


> Ok, so after reading posts on this thread i started loading largest splits i have on bottom and filling box with less air gaps and you guys were right... longer slower burns and had more and larger coal bed after 10 hours... i still am not loading above fire brick height but much tighter packed from left to right. thanks for the technique tips. im burning oak and cherry all at 20 percent or lower moisture... always willing to learn.


Don't be afraid to fill this stove JM.. The key is to rake the coals forward, fill the firebox, give max air then bring it down in stages until air is at minimum while maintaining top down burn via secondaries.. This will provide good heat and long burn times and top efficiency..

Ray


----------



## jetmech (Jan 21, 2013)

Yupp, i have been raking forward but not loading as large and as tight... the only thing that has limited me has been pipe temps but they seem to be ok loading this way, slower start up and longer burn.   gonna get cold here this week for us... lows around 10 or 11


----------



## raybonz (Jan 21, 2013)

jetmech said:


> Yupp, i have been raking forward but not loading as large and as tight... the only thing that has limited me has been pipe temps but they seem to be ok loading this way, slower start up and longer burn. gonna get cold here this week for us... lows around 10 or 11


Going to be down to near zero here so they say.. My pipe temps will sometimes run up to high normal or even a little higher but they settle down.. The T5 will keep us warm pretty easy 

Ray


----------



## loon (Jan 21, 2013)

Got home after almost 11hrs today and it was still kicking out good heat 

What do you guys do after work when you need a good fire but want to reload before bed? I put in 5 smalls and got it running well with the damper open a third of the way. Will add wood if needed but would like a smallish load of coals say at 10pm..

loon


----------



## begreen (Jan 21, 2013)

I do something similar. Try to put a smaller load in that will burn down enough to refill later. Sometimes I get it right and sometimes I have to stay up a bit later due to miscalculation. In that case I have the coals raked to front and the air 50% open.


----------



## raybonz (Jan 21, 2013)

I do small fires until 6-7PM then rake the coals forward and we're off to the races until 4AM.. Loon I think you're getting a good grip on running the T5 now.. It's all about coal control 

Ray


----------



## loon (Jan 21, 2013)

Thanks guys..

Might have a problem with the baffle? At the middle back of the picture you can see what looks like it 'sagging', the sides are nice and flush but the back looks funny and i have a thin line of secondary coming out of it.


----------



## jetmech (Jan 22, 2013)

Woke up to warm house and good coal bed to reload this am, outside temp was 12 degrees, inside 69... thanks to Ray, Begreen and Loon for the loading tips, larger pieces and less gaps equals longer slower burn at least for the t5...


----------



## madison (Jan 22, 2013)

Loon,

Looks like most of the baffle pics.  Mine is similar and it still works, OEM gasket or replaced?


----------



## loon (Jan 22, 2013)

Ok Good Madison  Have had the baffle out twice and it didnt look different, I havent touched the gasket.

Thanks...


----------



## loon (Jan 24, 2013)

Things have been going great here with the T5 gang and the fan trick in the hallway is doing the job Backwoods Savage  Thanks eh Dennis!

Here is whats going on right now. Nice lazy Locust/Ash burn for the last hour and the top is reading quite high for such a low burn?

Pipe is reading 425f and i took the ir gun back to work so i gotta go by the gauges.











I remember the fella at the store telling me not to worry about high Top readings on this stove as they were made for it?

Terry


----------



## begreen (Jan 24, 2013)

I wouldn't push it higher than that. If you've had the baffle out a couple times the odds are the gasket is wasted. I'd replace it.


----------



## loon (Jan 25, 2013)

Will stop into the store today BG and pick a couple up to have on hand.

I guess i shouldnt of said everything is Great as i am still fiddling with run times? Filled it up at 9 lastnight and was up at 2.30 adding more wood? Minus 22c but was hoping for longer burns without worrying..
Still 'testing' and trying to get away from putting in the big rounds as they dont seem to hold the secondary going.

Thanks eh 

loon


----------



## jetmech (Jan 25, 2013)

Update on mine as of last night.. loaded full with large oak halves at 6:00 last nite, at 3:30 this morning top temp of 220 and huge coal bed to reload on, outside temps were 9 deg f   room stove is in was 67... reloaded and took right off,


----------



## loon (Jan 25, 2013)

jetmech said:


> Update on mine as of last night.. loaded full with large oak halves at 6:00 last nite, at 3:30 this morning top temp of 220 and huge coal bed to reload on, outside temps were 9 deg f room stove is in was 67... reloaded and took right off,


 

Sounds great jetmech 




begreen said:


> I wouldn't push it higher than that. If you've had the baffle out a couple times the odds are the gasket is wasted. I'd replace it.


 

Got home an hour early today BG and the house was fine with some nice coals in the box. Didnt stop in to get the gaskets but brought the gun home from work and this is what its reading about 20min ago? 'after reload'

The thermometer is reading almost 100f higher than it and the pipe reading 400f is dead on.

Switched them and got the same thing?

I stopped into Home Depot last week to buy one but they dont carry them? Will check out a couple more spots but the one from work will stay here at the house till i find my own


----------



## raybonz (Jan 25, 2013)

loon said:


> Sounds great jetmech
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
I use this on the stove top.. It is designed for this and not for pipe.. Condars are probably the best of the worst lol..

http://www.amazon.com/Inferno-3-30-...ie=UTF8&qid=1359150654&sr=1-2&keywords=condar

Ray


----------



## loon (Jan 25, 2013)

It was a nice slow burn Ray? That gauge is sitting on the floor right now  

Just got in the house from helping my Buddy's grandson finish up a beauty splitter for the front of his excavator and nice and warm in here for sure    Will take a couple pics tomorrow of the finished product 

Terry


----------



## raybonz (Jan 25, 2013)

loon said:


> It was a nice slow burn Ray? That gauge is sitting on the floor right now
> 
> Just got in the house from helping my Buddy's grandson finish up a beauty splitter for the front of his excavator and nice and warm in here for sure  Will take a couple pics tomorrow of the finished product
> 
> Terry


Always good to keep an IR temp gun handy as the bimetal thermometers aren't very accurate.. Are you saying you turned and excavator into a log splitter? Interesting!

Ray


----------



## loon (Jan 25, 2013)

Had to go back and get ya a quick pic ray 

A little paint and its brand new


----------



## begreen (Jan 25, 2013)

Looks pretty light duty, sure it will handle the rounds? 

Must be nice splitting wood while sitting inside a heated cab.


----------



## raybonz (Jan 25, 2013)

Hey that's pretty awesome Loon! Keep us posted how it works..

Ray


----------



## begreen (Jan 25, 2013)

And take some videos of it in action if you can!


----------



## loon (Jan 26, 2013)

loon said:


> Have a couple more rows ready guys


 

The rounds on the right wont be touched till next year as i finally got it in my little brain that they are not dry enough to burn in the T5  got up at 3.30 and threw a couple in and got the secondary going and just got up awhile ago and they are just big red rounds with no flame..They sure looked dry enough BG but i know they are not. 

The woodsplitter attachment was in the works for awhile now and he was just finishing it up yesterday.

He built it for a quarter of the store prices and the thing works great  He got pretty much everything off the net and had a machinist do a couple things for him.

Here is one in action he told me about.



Will get some pics when he gets it outside


----------



## Mitch Newton (Jan 26, 2013)

loon said:


> The woodsplitter attachment was in the works for awhile now and he was just finishing it up yesterday. He built it for a quarter of the store prices and the thing works great  He got pretty much everything off the net and had a machinist do a couple things for him.
> 
> Here is one in action he told me about. Will get some pics when he gets it outside


 
Wow!!


----------



## raybonz (Jan 26, 2013)

Loon your thumbs will be very sore after a day of splitting with that thing lol..

Ray


----------



## loon (Jan 26, 2013)

I couldnt get the hang of it today  But this thing works great


----------



## raybonz (Jan 26, 2013)

loon said:


> I couldnt get the hang of it today  But this thing works great


Terry that is cool! Now you need to practice! Come here I have a nice pile of red oak you can play with 

Ray


----------



## loon (Jan 26, 2013)

If me and Buddy leave right now Ray we should be at your house in about 2014 

Very cool machine for sure!


----------



## loon (Jan 27, 2013)

Had a very nice overnite burn '9hrs' and will be splitting some more fillers today..

I have a large amount of Locust that is nice and dry but wondering if it is kind of a waste to use as fillers?

What does everyone else use?

loon


----------



## raybonz (Jan 27, 2013)

loon said:


> Had a very nice overnite burn '9hrs' and will be splitting some more fillers today..
> 
> I have a large amount of Locust that is nice and dry but wondering if it is kind of a waste to use as fillers?
> 
> ...


Nothing wrong with locust fillers or 9 hr. burns. 

Ray


----------



## Oldhippie (Jan 27, 2013)

I love the pics. The one of the woods looks like my backyard, although I've got a mix of pine too.

Nothing like free energy!


----------



## Oldhippie (Jan 27, 2013)

I want one of those for my backyard


----------



## loon (Jan 27, 2013)

Oldhippie said:


> I love the pics. The one of the woods looks like my backyard, although I've got a mix of pine too.
> 
> Nothing like free energy!


 
The tractor is sitting over in the wood pile right now hippie..Blown front tire  

Going to see today how the Locust lasts in the stove? had room for one little Ash filler


----------



## raybonz (Jan 27, 2013)

loon said:


> The tractor is sitting over in the wood pile right now hippie..Blown front tire
> 
> Going to see today how the Locust lasts in the stove? had room for one little Ash filler


That looks like a load of prime wood Loon! I bet you get a good 10 hrs. from that load.. The trick is to get the wood charred and get the air all the way down while maintaining a top down secondary burn.. 

Ray


----------



## loon (Jan 27, 2013)

Will do Ray 

Just came in the house and boy-oh-boy Locust smoke sure has a stink all its own  

Gonna give it another 10/15 minutes before the shutdown..


----------



## loon (Jan 27, 2013)

The secondary is running well right now so wont touch it till tonight..Hopefully


----------



## begreen (Jan 27, 2013)

loon said:


> The rounds on the right wont be touched till next year as i finally got it in my little brain that they are not dry enough to burn in the T5  got up at 3.30 and threw a couple in and got the secondary going and just got up awhile ago and they are just big red rounds with no flame..They sure looked dry enough BG but i know they are not.


 
Yes, unsplit rounds can hold moisture inside for quite a while. Next year they should  burn better.



> The woodsplitter attachment was in the works for awhile now and he was just finishing it up yesterday.
> 
> He built it for a quarter of the store prices and the thing works great  He got pretty much everything off the net and had a machinist do a couple things for him. Here is one in action he told me about. Will get some pics when he gets it outside


 
That's really cool, thanks for posting. I like how he can use the splitter as a grabber in addition to splitting. It makes splitting look like child's play.


----------



## begreen (Jan 27, 2013)

loon said:


> The secondary is running well right now so wont touch it till tonight..Hopefully


 
Yep, locust has stinky smoke, but a beautiful blue flame once it gets going. It puts out a lot of heat too. That wood is dense!


----------



## loon (Jan 27, 2013)

Its fun to work bg, just gonna take me a little time to the hang of it 






Got the stink eye from Mrs loon after 7 1/2 hours Ray 

Had to throw in a couple smalls to get the house back in action..

Everything is pulled to the front and will reload for the night in a bit 

Terry


----------



## Oldhippie (Jan 27, 2013)

loon said:


> Got the stink eye from Mrs loon after 7 1/2 hours


 
ut-oh! That can't be good.


----------



## BrowningBAR (Jan 27, 2013)

loon said:


> I couldnt get the hang of it today  But this thing works great


Holy crap, that thing is sweet!


----------



## loon (Jan 27, 2013)

Oldhippie said:


> ut-oh! That can't be good.


 



She's a country gal hippie 

Had a good burn today for sure and just trying different woods


----------



## loon (Feb 2, 2013)

Lets see if this comes out alright? 

Over at the farm getting some 14inch dead Elm for a try at the EW burn in the T5 tonite..






And me and Emma were doing great and had a fun day for sure 






"BUT" was getting the wood ready to throw in the stove and dropped that first one right on my little toe 






Sitting here at the pute and wondering if its worth going to the hospital? as i am thinking theres not alot they can do?

Gotta love cutting wood! 

loon


----------



## raybonz (Feb 2, 2013)

loon said:


> Lets see if this comes out alright?
> 
> Over at the farm getting some 14inch dead Elm for a try at the EW burn in the T5 tonite..
> 
> ...


 
Ouch that had to hurt! You better call a toe truck! 
Great pics too!

Ray


----------



## raybonz (Feb 2, 2013)

I try to wear steel toe boots when working with firewood cuz that hurts!


----------



## loon (Feb 2, 2013)

Had my safety stuff on all day.. Got home cold and took it all off..Friggen slippers!   Mrs loon just rolled her eyes again Ray


----------



## raybonz (Feb 2, 2013)

The only safety gear I use is steel toe boots, gloves and sometimes safety glasses..

Ray


----------



## loon (Feb 2, 2013)

Gonna let todays burn get to small ashes and try out the EW in awhile ray  Savage is right with the dead tree's only dry up halfway.. Will split the lower half's up and use em next year 

Terry


----------



## rideau (Feb 2, 2013)

Not much they can do about a toe...if it is broken you can tape it to the next one.  That's all they'll do.  Take an aspirin, eat some pineapple (dissolves bruises).  Ice (HA!) on the toe, foot up.  No tight boots tomorrow!

Hope you feel better.


----------



## loon (Feb 2, 2013)

Not broken i think rideau? Just gimping around for awhile and that pineapple thing sounds good on a Pizza  

Thanks eh!

loon


----------



## rideau (Feb 2, 2013)

Loon,

I was looking at the wood in your stove. Have never seen locust in my life...and I'm quite close to you! Where does the locust grow? High and dry, low and wet? That bark is really thick. Got me thinking about the difference in the actual amount of wood from one cord to the next. My cord of barkless sugar maple, thin skinned beech and really thin barked ironwood probably has a great deal more weight in it than a cord that has wood with bark that thick. So, when I say I can heat for at least 6 weeks with a cord of wood, I may be using weight equivalent to a lot more than another person's cord....

Something to think about when we compare amounts of wood needed to heat our homes. So many variables.


----------



## loon (Feb 2, 2013)

Hardly any up high off the fields? The big grove of them are low between 2 high fields and right beside a creek rideau..Will get a couple better pics tomorrow for ya


----------



## Oldhippie (Feb 2, 2013)

oooh, bummer! I perscribe a bottle of Jack and 1 cube to melt it a bit in a tumbler.


----------



## loon (Feb 3, 2013)

Sounds like a good plan for today hippie 

Didnt do the EW burn but started this fire about 90 minutes ago and its the best one i think i've had in the T5 

Heading out the door and threw in the little one down on the right as it was open there and trying to stop the bottom burn..

23c=74f down the hallway which has always been a chore to heat..Minus 10c=50f outside

Will let this thing go as long as possible..

And right when i opened the door for the pic lost the secondary but came right back when shut.

loon


----------



## begreen (Feb 3, 2013)

Locust fires are sweet heat. For the longest burn I fill in those blank areas to the left and right of the top center split.


----------



## loon (Feb 3, 2013)

begreen said:


> Locust fires are sweet heat. For the longest burn I fill in those blank areas to the left and right of the top center split.


 
Done bg 

My center split crumbled though..


----------



## loon (Feb 3, 2013)

Not a very good picture rideau but the Locust is to the right and the gut they are in am guessing about 20ft below the field. the little creek is more to the right of the pic and on a quick guesstimate around 5000 tree's.. The place is full of burrs which makes it not alot of fun to cut in  There is another field up behind it.Which is about the same height..





And heres coming back to the house with the snow they didnt call for yesterday?


----------



## loon (Feb 3, 2013)

Still cruizen nicely and wont touch it for a couple more hours.. Had to mark the draft as it was black when bought and i couldnt see it..

Boomer is in his glory 

loon


----------



## L-93 (Feb 10, 2013)

Hi guys,
Quick question...I was reading about this somewhere else but can't find the thread....the top of the door rope-gasket started to fall off the other day. I was away on business but luckily my wife noticed it. If I remember, this is somewhat common on the T5. Any suggestions? Calling the stove place when they open this morning.


----------



## loon (Feb 10, 2013)

Just checked on mine 93 and it is fine, Sorry have no information on it.

Let us know how you make out though 

loon


----------



## Nocattom (Feb 10, 2013)

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/t5-gasket-problem.89691/

try this


----------



## begreen (Feb 10, 2013)

L-93 said:


> Hi guys,
> Quick question...I was reading about this somewhere else but can't find the thread....the top of the door rope-gasket started to fall off the other day. I was away on business but luckily my wife noticed it. If I remember, this is somewhat common on the T5. Any suggestions? Calling the stove place when they open this morning.


 
Run a small bead of high-temp silicone behind it. Not too much, you don't want to saturate the gasket or create a lot of ooze. Then close the door and let it set up for 24 hrs.. That should hold it.


----------



## L-93 (Feb 10, 2013)

Nocattom said:


> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/t5-gasket-problem.89691/
> 
> try this


 
Thanks Nocattom. That's the thread. After 36 hours of snow plowing I'm a little fuzzy...must have made a typo or something when I was searchng for it

I've only had the stove for 4 months so I'm going to call the dealer 1st. Unfortunately, there not open until Tuesday...


----------



## loon (Feb 10, 2013)

Went back and corrected your handle L-93 

Just wondering? as my stove is new also... does it look like there was something behind it for sealing? or they just missed it when installing?

I know up on the left of my stove by the baffle they skimped on the insulation and am thinking someone at the factory was having a hard day or just ran out of it?

loon


----------



## L-93 (Feb 10, 2013)

Looks like a _*very*_ thin bead was there. The rest of the gasket seems to be attached well. Just curious, how can you tell they skimped on the insulation? What should I look for? I see it in the upper corners of my stove. Thanks!


----------



## madison (Feb 10, 2013)

the remaining sections will be falling off - so it will need to be completely redone at some point. I tried regluing sections of the OEM gasket and it ended up doing the same thing, falling off, which as long as you are careful when you open and close the door you can go months with it loose.

Eventually took it all off, wire brushed and replaced with off the shelf Rutland and it has shown no signs of coming off. Couple hr job max, have an extra pair of hands to remount the door, can be done solo but is a pain.

OEM gasket costs about 4 - 5 times the store bought- look for graphite - i think your t5 is 3/8"


----------



## madison (Feb 10, 2013)

Oh by the way, Ray and Loon, congrats on one of the longest running active threads....


----------



## L-93 (Feb 10, 2013)

madison said:


> the remaining sections will be falling off - so it will need to be completely redone at some point. I tried regluing sections of the OEM gasket and it ended up doing the same thing in, falling off, which as long as you are careful when you open and close the door you can go months with it loose.
> 
> Eventually took it all off, wire brushed and replaced with off the shelf Rutland and it has shown no signs of coming off. Couple hr job max, have an extra pair of hands to remount the door, can be done solo but is a pain.
> 
> OEM gasket costs about 4 - 5 times the store bought- look for graphite - i think your t5 is 3/8"


 
Thanks for the info!


----------



## raybonz (Feb 10, 2013)

Posting with my iPhone still alive here . Got buried with snow and hurricane force winds. No power for 3 days and counting but the T5 is keeping us warm and works well for cooking too!

Ray


----------



## loon (Feb 10, 2013)

L-93 said:


> Looks like a _*very*_ thin bead was there. The rest of the gasket seems to be attached well. Just curious, how can you tell they skimped on the insulation? What should I look for? I see it in the upper corners of my stove. Thanks!


 
Up to the left had half as much insulation as the right side did 93? Pulled it back for now but will be filling it in on the off season..


----------



## madison (Feb 11, 2013)

loon said:


> Up to the left had half as much insulation as the right side did 93? Pulled it back for now but will be filling it in on the off season..


Loon that log is about to fall onto your camera and face !!


----------



## loon (Feb 11, 2013)

madison said:


> Loon that log is about to fall onto your camera and face !!


 

Wouldnt have been the first time 

Was trying out the EW burn and made sure i had a good flat split there..
Camera angle may not of helped either


----------



## loon (Feb 13, 2013)

Just found out the 'importance' of getting the secondary going with the T5.

Set up last night with a nice full box of Ash/Maple around 8pm started to shut down around 20min after but not to the mark that i let it cruise.Nice slow flames but not the secondary flame yet.

Well i fell asleep on the couch and woke up to a box of coals at midnight  re-loaded with secondary burning this time and woke up about an hour ago to a 3/4 box full of nice burning wood which i am gonna leave burning today. It may not make it till i get off work? but supposed to be mild so not that worried about it 

loon


----------



## loon (Feb 13, 2013)

Got home at 4.10pm and still had a nice bed of coals  Pulled them forward and gonna start a small fire here in a bit.

House was decent but it is only +1c=34f out..

I am down to running just the single ceiling fan now and thats the way its going to stay. Unless it drops back down to minus 25 again and then the hall fan will be turned back on 

Not alot left but pretty happy as its from midnight last night 

loon


----------



## raybonz (Feb 13, 2013)

loon said:


> Got home at 4.10pm and still had a nice bed of coals  Pulled them forward and gonna start a small fire here in a bit.
> 
> House was decent but it is only +1c=34f out..
> 
> ...


Looks like alot left to me! That's a very respectable burn in my opinion!

Ray


----------



## begreen (Feb 13, 2013)

Wow, that is after 16+hrs.? Move over Woodstock, we have a contender here.


----------



## loon (Feb 14, 2013)

I kinda cheated for the picture  I scraped everything i could from the back but was still pleased that the heat was there in the stove 
I think most of it was the one big dead Elm round that was in it?

Got a long weekend starting tomorrow afternoon and going to be in the Locust grove as much as possible to feed the T5 next year. The stuff i cut and split last year burns great in the stove right now..

loon


----------



## raybonz (Feb 14, 2013)

loon said:


> I kinda cheated for the picture  I scraped everything i could from the back but was still pleased that the heat was there in the stove
> I think most of it was the one big dead Elm round that was in it?
> 
> Got a long weekend starting tomorrow afternoon and going to be in the Locust grove as much as possible to feed the T5 next year. The stuff i cut and split last year burns great in the stove right now..
> ...


Scrape all you like but no matter how you shake it that was a LONG burn! 

Ray


----------



## loon (Feb 17, 2013)

Back to the Drunk loading thread 

Trying not to make a big deal of this but i do remember NOW that i had a fight with the T5 lastnite and JUST seen this..












The only thing holding the baffle up is that pin in the back and right now debating what the hell i am gonna do?

Figure i'll put my work jacket on and the welding gloves that i picked up the other day and give it a go. Not really in trouble right now as it is just coaling down before the night burn BUT man did i ever f%@% up 

Last time i try and pack it full.

loon


----------



## BrowningBAR (Feb 17, 2013)

loon said:


> The only thing holding the baffle up is that pin in the back and right now debating what the hell i am gonna do?


Looks like a simple fix. The right side plate that holds the brick and baffle needs to be pushed back into place.

No harm, no foul based on this photo. Get some gloves on and adjust accordingly.


----------



## loon (Feb 17, 2013)

Everything fell into place fine Browning..

Just a bone head move i did    That i hope nobody else does 

loon


----------



## raybonz (Feb 17, 2013)

LOL can't say that I have done that nor did I think it possible! Glad it turned out OK 

Ray


----------



## loon (Feb 17, 2013)

And whats the first thing i did Ray? Grab the camera! 

It wasnt a big deal but i did have 2 good fires in it before i noticed 

Terry


----------



## raybonz (Feb 17, 2013)

loon said:


> And whats the first thing i did Ray? Grab the camera!
> 
> It wasnt a big deal but i did have 2 good fires in it before i noticed
> 
> Terry


Actually I didn't realize that could happen so the pics were a learning experience for us PE people! Thanks for posting that!

Ray


----------



## BrowningBAR (Feb 17, 2013)

loon said:


> Everything fell into place fine Browning..
> 
> Just a bone head move i did  That i hope nobody else does
> 
> loon


With the amount of times we try to wedge in splits every winter, something is bound to happen. It is less of a "bone head move" and more of inevitability.

Look at it this way; next time it happens (and it will), you know exactly what needs to be done.


----------



## thewoodlands (Feb 17, 2013)

loon said:


> I kinda cheated for the picture  I scraped everything i could from the back but was still pleased that the heat was there in the stove
> I think most of it was the one big dead Elm round that was in it?
> 
> Got a long weekend starting tomorrow afternoon and going to be in the Locust grove as much as possible to feed the T5 next year. The stuff i cut and split last year burns great in the stove right now..
> ...


I just loaded up the Liberty, packed it the Loon way. Tonight Clear, with a low around -8. Wind chill values as low as -25. West wind 9 to 13 mph

I'll burn this load down (cherry) before I call it a night, I have a nice load of 3 year old beech ready for the overnight burn.


----------



## loon (Feb 17, 2013)

When i first figured out what i was looking at? It was not a good feeling at all 

Everything is fine and didnt mention a thing to Mrs loon  

Cold and windy over here also zap..


----------



## raybonz (Feb 17, 2013)

zap said:


> I just loaded up the Liberty, packed it the Loon way. Tonight Clear, with a low around -8. Wind chill values as low as -25. West wind 9 to 13 mph
> 
> I'll burn this load down (cherry) before I call it a night, I have a nice load of 3 year old beech ready for the overnight burn.


I got a solid 12 hours out of a load of wood today with temp at 22 degrees all day and heavy winds with driven snow.. When I raked the coals forward the house was down to 68 which is darn good! 

Ray


----------



## thewoodlands (Feb 17, 2013)

raybonz said:


> I got a solid 12 hours out of a load of wood today with temp at 22 degrees all day and heavy winds with driven snow.. When I raked the coals forward the house was down to 68 which is darn good!
> 
> Ray


The basement is 81, upstairs is 73, that's burning cherry with the temp at 3 degrees, not sure what the windchill is but I'll take those temps.


----------



## raybonz (Feb 17, 2013)

zap said:


> The basement is 81, upstairs is 73, that's burning cherry with the temp at 3 degrees, not sure what the windchill is but I'll take those temps.


Cherry gives good burns with lots of coals.. The Lopi's are great stoves!

Ray


----------



## thewoodlands (Feb 17, 2013)

raybonz said:


> Cherry gives good burns with lots of coals.. The Lopi's are great stoves!
> 
> Ray


Do you cook much on yours?


----------



## raybonz (Feb 17, 2013)

zap said:


> Do you cook much on yours?


No only for a little reheating and a little when we lost power... How about you?

Ray


----------



## thewoodlands (Feb 17, 2013)

raybonz said:


> No only for a little reheating and a little when we lost power... How about you?
> 
> Ray


Not yet, the wife will put the bread dough in front of the wood stove so it rises, makes for some nice bread. This was done that way but cooked in the oven.


----------



## thewoodlands (Feb 17, 2013)

raybonz said:


> No only for a little reheating and a little when we lost power... How about you?
> 
> Ray


Your stove looks real nice, I was just looking at the owners manual real quick, does that take a 18 inch log north/south?


----------



## raybonz (Feb 17, 2013)

zap said:


> Your stove looks real nice, I was just looking at the owners manual real quick, does that take a 18 inch log north/south?


Thanks, yes 18" NS and 15-1/2" EW.. What I find gives long burns is a layer EW then pack the rest NS.. Push the coals towards the wood then adjust the air down until all the way down while maintaining the secondary burn.. Pretty much the fire burns top down from there..

Ray


----------



## raybonz (Feb 18, 2013)

So 12 hrs. later I have a huge load of coals and the house temp is at 67 with outside temp of 14 degrees and howling winds non-stop.. Reloaded again and good for another 12 hrs. and the stove lit right off in under 2 minutes with the door closed and air on max setting. Who says a 2.0 cu. ft.secondary burn stove can't burn 12+ hrs.? I bet I could have easily went 14 hrs. or more but due to the low outside temps and non-stop winds I need more BTU's..

Ray


----------



## loon (Feb 18, 2013)

Great burns Ray!

Ours is doing its job i guess 

Minus 20c and was up at 4am reloading.

Gonna wait till noon and do a cleanout then a medium fire till bed time


----------



## raybonz (Feb 18, 2013)

loon said:


> Great burns Ray!
> 
> Ours is doing its job i guess
> 
> ...


Cute pics, love the dog and cat hanging out together! So what are you guessing about anyways? Either it works or it doesn't right? I seem to recall you reloading after 16 hrs. which is excellent! 

Ray


----------



## loon (Feb 18, 2013)

Just a little tongue in cheek humour Ray as they all have been there for quite awhile 

Pretty sure the cat would lay on top of it if he could


----------



## loon (Feb 18, 2013)

Pulling the coals back and dropping a bunch on the floor is getting old real quick 

Gonna rig up a sheet of thin steal 17''x4'' with a handle welded to the front and see if that will help


----------



## raybonz (Feb 18, 2013)

loon said:


> Pulling the coals back and dropping a bunch on the floor is getting old real quick
> 
> Gonna rig up a sheet of thin steal 17''x4'' with a handle welded to the front and see if that will help


Try pulling your ash bin out that may help..

Ray


----------



## loon (Feb 18, 2013)

Tried that the other day Ray and this what i got.

Not much catching room and it was just hanging there by an inch or 2..Will explain to my millwright buddy at work tomorrow what i want  

Just figured the plate would be quick and easy


----------



## loon (Feb 18, 2013)

Tell ya one thing Ray..

If it wasnt for you and the rest of the gang here on the board. I'd be having to buy an oil furnace and that would be no fun at all 

Thanks to all of ya's.

The T5 is fun to run now!

loon


----------



## begreen (Feb 18, 2013)

There's a learning curve on any new stove. I just assume that now when I am having a problem it's not the stove, it's the nut behind the log.


----------



## Todd 2 (Feb 18, 2013)

Been a pleasure reading this thread Ray & Loon, I posted on here over a month ago and still going, and no stove drama - this is a record. lol
I think I'm gonna sell this drama talk causing Hybrid and go back to the PE stove

cast rapped of corse 

Todd2


----------



## rideau (Feb 19, 2013)

I've enjoyed this post too, but no way I am trading my PH> It's built like a tank, figuratively speaking, beautiful to look at, easy to run. A few kinks, new stove, keeps life interesting, mind engaged. I have no complaints. My home challanges any stove....three stories, more window than wall, cold climate, extreme exposure. 

That said, PE thread has been really interesting for me, in part because loon essentially lives next door to me...just a few miles away, also in S Ont lake country, so he has similar heating situation.  The stove obviously meets his needs, and also looks nice.  Gives good long burn times too. 

Ray and loon, how big are your homes?


----------



## BrowningBAR (Feb 19, 2013)

"Hey look, there is no drama in this thread. Let me talk about a completely different stove, how great I think that stove is, and that it is completely unrelated to this thread, so we can fix that..."


----------



## BrowningBAR (Feb 19, 2013)

begreen said:


> There's a learning curve on any new stove. I just assume that now when I am having a problem it's not the stove, it's the nut behind the log.


Very true. I probably burned through an additional cord or two this winter messing with things.

Loon, I might have missed it, but how big is your place? It appears to be an older home, is it drafty at all? You seem to be having really good success with the T5.


----------



## loon (Feb 19, 2013)

One floor 1600sqf with a 4 ft high crawlspace guys  Said i'd never buy another house with a crawlspace but couldnt say no to this place 12 years ago  And it was 15 years old when we got here..The fella that built and lived here was very frugal and went a little nuts with the insulation 
I still am thinking about having another layer blown in the attic though.






Here is my 'coal stopper'  but it needs a trimming as i measured the door opening and the coals are flush with the front  It will be the same as the right side of picture.


----------



## raybonz (Feb 19, 2013)

rideau said:


> I've enjoyed this post too, but no way I am trading my PH> It's built like a tank, figuratively speaking, beautiful to look at, easy to run. A few kinks, new stove, keeps life interesting, mind engaged. I have no complaints. My home challanges any stove....three stories, more window than wall, cold climate, extreme exposure.
> 
> That said, PE thread has been really interesting for me, in part because loon essentially lives next door to me...just a few miles away, also in S Ont lake country, so he has similar heating situation. The stove obviously meets his needs, and also looks nice. Gives good long burn times too.
> 
> Ray and loon, how big are your homes?


Loon and I have the same size homes around 1600 sq. ft. My home is Gambrel style with the 1st floor being planed 4 sides log which offers some mass but not much R-value..

Ray


----------



## rideau (Feb 19, 2013)

Ray,
I remember seeing a shot of your beautiful home. 
Thanks for the info.


----------



## raybonz (Feb 19, 2013)

loon said:


> One floor 1600sqf with a 4 ft high crawlspace guys  Said i'd never buy another house with a crawlspace but couldnt say no to this place 12 years ago  And it was 15 years old when we got here..The fella that built and lived here was very frugal and went a little nuts with the insulation
> I still am thinking about having another layer blown in the attic though.
> 
> 
> ...


New product "Coal-stopper" 

Ray


----------



## Todd 2 (Feb 19, 2013)

That "Coal Stopper looks pretty slick Loon, great idea at work there.


----------



## loon (Feb 19, 2013)

Patent Pending!


----------



## raybonz (Feb 19, 2013)

LOL you're a funny guy! 

Ray


----------



## begreen (Feb 20, 2013)

raybonz said:


> New product "Coal-stopper"
> 
> Ray


 
Coal Gate! Brings you whiter, brighter fires!


----------



## loon (Feb 20, 2013)

Wonder if i would get nailed with Copyright Infringement bg? 

Here is the done product and gonna let the fire keep going till it starts to get cool in here..11th hour 

Sits in there nice, but still gonna hold the handle just in case.

loon


----------



## loon (Feb 23, 2013)

Only +2c right now.But they are keeping cozy 

Emma is in another room though


----------



## raybonz (Feb 23, 2013)

Looks very cozy Loon! Much warmer here than there at the moment and nothing severe forecast for the upcoming week.. Where I'm going I will need AC 

Ray


----------



## loon (Feb 23, 2013)

Cuba Ray?  Mrs Loon is heading out this Friday 

Terry


----------



## raybonz (Feb 23, 2013)

Nope we are still not allowed there.. Think it's about time the USA drops the travel restriction to Cuba!  Hear it's nice there and close too! We will be in the tropics.. Low temp~ 80 and high temp 95.. Oddly I will miss the wood burning I am crazy lol..

Ray


----------



## loon (Feb 23, 2013)

raybonz said:


> Nope we are still not allowed there.. Think it's about time the USA drops the travel restriction to Cuba! Hear it's nice there and close too! We will be in the tropics.. Low temp~ 80 and high temp 95.. Oddly I will miss the wood burning I am crazy lol..
> 
> Ray


 

Will keep the T5 cruizen till ya get back


----------



## raybonz (Feb 23, 2013)

Right on T! If something major happens I showed my 27 yr. old daughter the T5 basics otherwise the oil furnace will be run..

Ray


----------



## billb3 (Feb 23, 2013)

People go to Cuba via third country or qualify for a travel license.
The restriction isn't as much going there as it is spending money there and violating the embargo is the way I understand it.

Except for a quick stop in Puerto Rico I haven't been to the Caribbean. ( unless Key West counts )


----------



## loon (Feb 23, 2013)

Took me a hundred years to figure it out  Bet she knows how to run it right away 

Have fun eh!


----------



## raybonz (Feb 23, 2013)

loon said:


> Took me a hundred years to figure it out  Bet she knows how to run it right away
> 
> Have fun eh!


LOL but now you're a T5 guru! Hopefully she will not need to run it.. I have a little more than 1/4 tank of oil and that should be enough until Friday night when I return..

Ray


----------



## loon (Feb 23, 2013)

Its old hat now Ray 

Gonna try for 17 hours next


----------



## Todd 2 (Feb 23, 2013)

raybonz said:


> Nope we are still not allowed there.. Think it's about time the USA drops the travel restriction to Cuba! Hear it's nice there and close too! We will be in the tropics.. Low temp~ 80 and high temp 95.. Oddly I will miss the wood burning I am crazy lol..
> 
> Ray


Once a Stove Junky always a Stove Junky Enjoy your trip to the fullest Ray !

Todd 2


----------



## rdust (Feb 23, 2013)

Enjoying the read but I thought Blaze King stoves only had glass that dirty!


----------



## Todd 2 (Feb 23, 2013)

Locust haze !


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## loon (Feb 24, 2013)

It will be nice and clean around late April/ May 

loon


----------



## loon (Feb 24, 2013)

Out grabbing some future fuel for the T5 today


----------



## loon (Feb 28, 2013)

Sent Ray a pm 2 days ago and no word?

Anyone heard from him?

loon


----------



## rideau (Feb 28, 2013)

Said he was returning Friday night, so hopefully you'll hear from him tonight or tomorrow...let us know?

I was in Maui in December for my elder son's wedding....easy to forget the woodburning world when you are in a tropical paradise.


----------



## loon (Feb 28, 2013)

Forgot all about him heading outta town rideau  

Bet you guys had a great time eh  And good for him and his wedding!..

loon


----------



## loon (Mar 4, 2013)

Warm weather is here and the T5 is melting me out of the house 

Gonna try running it this week 'without' the secondary happening..

Except for the extra creasote in the chimney should there be something else to watch out for?

loon


----------



## certified106 (Mar 4, 2013)

loon said:


> Warm weather is here and the T5 is melting me out of the house
> 
> Gonna try running it this week 'without' the secondary happening..
> 
> ...



Not sure about the T5 but this is what I do with the T6, try letting the stove burn down to almost no coal bed, push all the coals to one side of the stove and then load it half or two thirds full and shut it down fairly quick so you have maybe one flame in the firebox and very slow secondary combustion. If I do this i can easily get an all night burn without overheating the house.


----------



## loon (Mar 4, 2013)

Will give it a try certified..Thanks..


----------



## raybonz (Mar 4, 2013)

loon said:


> Warm weather is here and the T5 is melting me out of the house
> 
> Gonna try running it this week 'without' the secondary happening..
> 
> ...


Run smaller loads or load the stove cold then start the fire on top this will reduce the heat and give a long burn.. This way it burns from the top down with less heat..

Ray


----------



## loon (Mar 5, 2013)

Gonna try this top burn thing this weekend Ray 

Thanks eh!

loon


----------



## jeff_t (Mar 11, 2013)

I started reading this thread when I realized the Spectrum I have in the sitting in the garage is essentially the same stove. We had mid 60s here yesterday, so we were cleaning out the garage. I decided to roll it outside, shoved six feet of vent pipe in it and lit it up. I put four small splits, some lumber scraps, and a firestarter in it. It took forever to get up to temp with the short stack, but I finally got it up to 400, started cutting the air back, and watched the smoke disappear. About five hours later, I shoveled the remaining unburnt wood and coals out so it could cool off and I could put it away. 

It's an older model, built in '95. The only real difference I recall from looking at a Super 27 in the showroom is the air control on the right side of the door, instead of underneath. It controls both primary and secondary air, yes?




The stove is going to our new place in northern Michigan. I hope to get the hearth pad done the first week in April, and get the chimney in over the summer. I'm excited to have something new to play with besides the boring BK.


----------



## raybonz (Mar 11, 2013)

Hi Jeff,
On the T5 the air lever controls both primary and secondary air and probably does on your stove too.. I think you're gonna love that stove as they are easy to run with a short learning curve. I look forward to your findings!

Ray


----------



## jeff_t (Mar 11, 2013)

If my goofing off in the driveway was any indication, it's gonna be $350 well spent. 

We won't be the only ones using it, as my MIL and sister are in on the deal, too. Seems to be pretty easy to figure out. The ash dump is nicely frozen and plugged with ash, so I won't have to worry about air leaks there.

Unfortunately, my findings will be pretty sporadic, as I will burn it maybe 6-8 times in a year. Seems like you guys have a good handle on it, and I'll try to keep up with you.


----------



## raybonz (Jun 9, 2013)

begreen said:


> Run a small bead of high-temp silicone behind it. Not too much, you don't want to saturate the gasket or create a lot of ooze. Then close the door and let it set up for 24 hrs.. That should hold it.


Just the info I needed! Will pick up some black RTV silicone.. Cleaned the stove yesterday and noticed the top of the gasket was drooping.. The gasket still looks pretty good so I think I will just glue it back on..

Thanks!

Ray


----------



## madison (Jun 9, 2013)

Ray,

I agonized for two yrs with the gasket falling off, the rutland cement that came with the first Tractor Supply Kit I purchased was clear, and would not last but a cpl weeks, it would actually "foam" out a couple days after replacing it and curing it, then it would turn brittle white and crumble.

I looked and found another rutland kit that had black adhesive, that was rated to a much higher temp than the original kit with the clear cement. I took off the door, took out the old gasket, and cleaned with a wire brush, used the new much thicker black adhesive, and replaced with a new gasket (not the OEM with the peel tape). And it lasted the last yr no problems. Look at the temp rating of whatever it is you buy, buy the highest temp possible. I think the black stuff was 2000 and the clear 500 ->1000 - don't quote me on that, but peruse the rutland site and you can find the specs of the different types of adhesive that they sell.

do yourself a favor, take off the door to redo the job. it was not that hard to do with the door laying on the floor. hardest part was remounting the door by myself - a second pair of hands would make it much easier to mount.

you will have to wait til the next burning season as both require curing with the stove burning.


----------



## raybonz (Jun 9, 2013)

madison said:


> Ray,
> 
> I agonized for two yrs with the gasket falling off, the rutland cement that came with the first Tractor Supply Kit I purchased was clear, and would not last but a cpl weeks, it would actually "foam" out a couple days after replacing it and curing it, then it would turn brittle white and crumble.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info Madison! Does the product at this link work?

http://www.amazon.com/Rutland-Stove-Gasket-Cement-2-3-Ounce/dp/B000FKF80M

Ray


----------



## madison (Jun 10, 2013)

Loon/Ray,

that is the stuff, note the product info, it is rated to 2000 degrees and you have to bake it to cure, one 2.3 oz tube is just barely enough, it is a little bit of a struggle to get it out of the tube as it is very thick so maybe purchase 2..., i did find in in TS, i think, but was part of a kit with the *graphite impregnated* gasket - which is what you want to use.

Temperature Rating 2000°F
Requires heat to cure


----------



## begreen (Jun 10, 2013)

Tom at the Chimneysweep has been using silicone Some folks like Meeco Red Devil: http://www.amazon.com/MEECOS-110-Gasket-Cement-Sealer/dp/B000LNWLDU
I have used Meeco Thermoseal with good results. Follow the directions and don't use too much or the gasket will become hard.
Craig likes Heat Safe:https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/stove_gasket
more tips:
http://www.woodheat.org/maintenance.html


----------



## raybonz (Jun 10, 2013)

In case I decide or need to replace the gasket what size gasket do I need? It looks around 1/2" but I am not certain..

Thanks,
Ray


----------



## raybonz (Jun 10, 2013)

begreen said:


> Tom at the Chimneysweep has been using silicone Some folks like Meeco Red Devil: http://www.amazon.com/MEECOS-110-Gasket-Cement-Sealer/dp/B000LNWLDU
> I have used Meeco Thermoseal with good results. Follow the directions and don't use too much or the gasket will become hard.
> Craig likes Heat Safe:https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/stove_gasket
> more tips:
> http://www.woodheat.org/maintenance.html


I think the Meeco's is very similar to what Madison posted and you get 3 oz. for the same price as the other brand 2.3 oz. size which should be enough to do the door..

Ray


----------



## begreen (Jun 10, 2013)

It sounded like Rutland is very thick. Meeco's Thermoseal is quite liquidy. Not sure about the Red Devil product.


----------



## raybonz (Jun 10, 2013)

begreen said:


> It sounded like Rutland is very thick. Meeco's is quite liquidy.


Would that be a bad thing being "liquidy" ?


----------



## begreen (Jun 10, 2013)

No, as long as you have the door off, laying horizontally. Otherwise you'll have a drippy mess. It will soak up into the gasket. If you use too much it will turn the gasket to rock when cured. (Don't ask how I know .)


----------



## madison (Jun 10, 2013)

Ray,

The t6 was 3/8" graphite impregnated.  You can get the OEM gasket from chimneysweep - but if I recall - it was ~ $36 (i may be off on that it was a cpl yrs ago when I called).

  I got the job done on the t6 with one tube of the rutland.  the meeco is also rated to 2000 - i have not used it so i can not comment on its qualities.   IMHO the thicker would be less likely to cause any messes with drips, squeezeouts etc


----------



## raybonz (Jun 10, 2013)

madison said:


> Ray,
> 
> The t6 was 3/8" graphite impregnated. You can get the OEM gasket from chimneysweep - but if I recall - it was ~ $36 (i may be off on that it was a cpl yrs ago when I called).
> 
> I got the job done on the t6 with one tube of the rutland. the meeco is also rated to 2000 - i have not used it so i can not comment on its qualities. IMHO the thicker would be less likely to cause any messes with drips, squeezeouts etc


Yes thanks I am leaning towards the stuff you mentioned as it shouldn't soak into the gasket which is a plus.. I will pick up some 3/8" graphite rope gasket as well in case I decide to just replace the gasket but it is in good shape..

Thanks,
Ray


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## raybonz (Jun 10, 2013)

begreen said:


> No, as long as you have the door off, laying horizontally. Otherwise you'll have a drippy mess. It will soak up into the gasket. If you use too much it will turn the gasket to rock when cured. (Don't ask how I know .)


I am leaning towards the thicker stuff as I think will be a plus in regards to gasket pliability..

Thanks,
Ray


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## madison (Jun 10, 2013)

Ray,

I'ld replace the gasket - graphite impregnated, when you remove the old gasket, it will have residue from the old adhesive which may reduce the bond. Just follow the instructions that Tom posted a while back here - basically don't stretch the new gasket when you replace it, leave some "slack" at the corners, start and stop at the bottom inside corner (contrary to the instuctions linked above in begreens post). My original gasket had some type of "splice" covering the start/stop - don't bother attempting to copy that - i still can't figure how they did that.

Too lazy at this moment, but I think you could search and find tom's directions somewhere in this forum - ~ yr or so ago.... otherwise, follow begreens link above.


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## raybonz (Jun 10, 2013)

madison said:


> Ray,
> 
> I'ld replace the gasket - graphite impregnated, when you remove the old gasket, it will have residue from the old adhesive which may reduce the bond. Just follow the instructions that Tom posted a while back here - basically don't stretch the new gasket when you replace it, leave some "slack" at the corners, start and stop at the bottom inside corner (contrary to the instuctions linked above in begreens post). My original gasket had some type of "splice" covering the start/stop - don't bother attempting to copy that - i still can't figure how they did that.
> 
> Too lazy at this moment, but I think you could search and find tom's (chimneysweeponline) directions somewhere in this forum - ~ yr or so ago....


Same technique I used on my CDW. Yes there is a "splice" in the bottom center of the gasket pretty cool but don't know how they did that..

Ray


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## Shadow&Flame (Jun 20, 2013)

Sorry I have been missing these great threads...will have to read it thru.  World has been kicking me around pretty hard and I have had no time
to even look in on you guys.  Still loving my T5...great stove! 

Keep up the good work and I hope to be back reading and posting again soon...


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## niagara (Jun 21, 2013)

I've decided on the T5 as well for our new addition.

I had a very interesting conversation from a local stove dealer who carries PE. They recommend upgrading to a T6 because, based on customer feedback, the T5 doesn't throw enough heat. Apparently the cast-iron shell blocks much of the heat.

This doesn't make sense to me. I would think that eventually the cast-iron would reach an equilibrium temperature then would radiate the same amount of heat that it absorbs.

Any thoughts on this? I know the dealer and they're not trying to push me into a pricier model. Simply what they've heard from customer feedback.


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## begreen (Jun 21, 2013)

Your dealer is giving you good advice. Considering that you are adding 540 sq ft with a high ceiling and this is area is attached to an old house, going up to the T6 wouldn't hurt.The T5 will do the job, but the T6 will provide more reserve capacity for the really cold days and nights. That is unless the stove is primarily meant to heat the new space and not the whole house. If you are only trying to heat the sunroom with a little gain for the rest of the house the T5 should be adequate.

The Alderleas are convection stoves. Most complaints about "not throwing off enough heat" are from folks looking for a radiant stove, often in a large open space. The T5 and T6 do not radiate a lot of heat from the sides or back, just the front and top. That makes them ideal for close clearance installations.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/would-this-convection-setup-work.110625/


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## niagara (Jun 21, 2013)

The Cardinal concurs


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## madison (Jun 21, 2013)

Ditto Begreens response.

You will enjoy the extra firebox volume on the t6.

If you have experienced or owned radiant stoves, there is a real difference on heat that you "feel" vs a convection stove.

My only advice is when you plan your hearth location, allow for an electrical outlet, as I find the blower very useful for moderating heat output with various firebox loads and with various ambient room temperatures.  the blower can be added quite easily (two phillips head screws) if you don't want to fork out the extra ~$250 initially.


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## Woody Stover (Jun 22, 2013)

madison said:


> Ray,
> 
> I'ld replace the gasket - graphite impregnated, when you remove the old gasket, it will have residue from the old adhesive which may reduce the bond. Just follow the instructions that Tom posted a while back here - basically don't stretch the new gasket when you replace it, leave some "slack" at the corners, start and stop at the bottom inside corner (contrary to the instuctions linked above in begreens post). My original gasket had some type of "splice" covering the start/stop - don't bother attempting to copy that - i still can't figure how they did that.


Did you have the gasket off to look at the "splice" close up? From the pics, looks like it could just be a piece of thin gasket, like glass gasket, glued over the top of where the ends of the main gasket meet and can fray, creating an air gap. I had a leak at that seam on the ash pan of the Buck 91. I used Tom's suggestion of starting at a corner, then butting the end of the gasket into the side of the other end, instead of butting two fraying ends up to each other. I also used silicone, and put a bit on the ends of the gasket to prevent fraying. If you try that, put some waxed paper or something over that section to make sure it doesn't stick to the door frame. Silicone I used was 650* stuff I got at an auto parts store. The door doesn't get near that hot according to the IR gun. I also have a caulk-size tube of some 1000 degree, but don't really want to open that until I need a lot of it at one time. Need to find that 1000 stuff in a small tube...


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## raybonz (Jun 22, 2013)

Woody Stover said:


> Did you have the gasket off to look at the "splice" close up? From the pics, looks like it could just be a piece of thin gasket, like glass gasket, glued over the top of where the ends of the main gasket meet and can fray, creating an air gap. I had a leak at that seam on the ash pan of the Buck 91. I used Tom's suggestion of starting at a corner, then butting the end of the gasket into the side of the other end, instead of butting two fraying ends up to each other. I also used silicone, and put a bit on the ends of the gasket to prevent fraying. If you try that, put some waxed paper or something over that section to make sure it doesn't stick to the door frame. Silicone I used was 650* stuff I got at an auto parts store. The door doesn't get near that hot according to the IR gun. I also have a caulk-size tube of some 1000 degree, but don't really want to open that until I need a lot of it at one time. Need to find that 1000 stuff in a small tube...


Nope haven't replaced the gasket yet and I am in no hurry for a while.. I used to do mine into a corner on my CDW too and that worked fine.. The location of this gasket doesn't see half the heat the CDW did..

Ray


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