# JD 314 Garden Tractor Value



## KenLockett (Jul 17, 2016)

Guys is a JD 314 Garden Tractor in average condition worth $700?  Engine seems to run strong.


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## KenLockett (Jul 17, 2016)




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## KenLockett (Jul 17, 2016)




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## English BoB (Jul 17, 2016)

It was only made between 1979 - 1983 so parts may be a problem and if it has the original engine + transmission it has been looked after.
I wouldn't invest that much personally.

Ok, now you post the extras. If I needed any of those I may be tempted at $500.

bob


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## KenLockett (Jul 17, 2016)

Also including the cart and sweeper for the $700. Help me make decision here guys.


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## KenLockett (Jul 17, 2016)

Thanks Bob. Also has the cast iron wheel weights and he put new engine mounts and brake springs. Overall seems clean underneath for the age. Tractor data lists value between 600 and 900 and figured if I could sell the sweeper and cart for maybe 100 to 150 then 700 for all equivalent to around 550 to 600. Of course I'd have to sell cart and sweeper. Sweeper actually in very good condition so maybe I could get more just not sure. These older JD garden tractors seem to go fast on Craig's List.


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## mass_burner (Jul 17, 2016)

I don't think that is a terrible deal. Thing is, if you don't need those attachments, it sucks paying for them. Can you make an off on just the tractor?


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## Surveyor (Jul 17, 2016)

I have owned a 314 now for about 15 years. The only thing I have put into it is motor mounts, starter and new seat. 
In the photos you have attached what are the 2 bolt looking things on each side of the hood?
It looks like it is in good shape. Same floorboard rust I have going. It's too bad hour meters weren't standard on them.


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## Surveyor (Jul 17, 2016)

What model is the cart? Some go for a premium even in poor condition.


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## KenLockett (Jul 17, 2016)

It is a model 80 and yes I see that they certainly can go for a premium of $100 to $700 depending on condition. Same for the T38 sweeper. I am tempted even if to clean up and sell the attachments to offset the cost of the tractor. Those silver things are attachment bolts. Ones that were there were replaced. Well what do you guys think. He doesn't want to sell just tractor but think I can make money on those.  Another guy coming to look at it tomorrow so think I gotta make a decision rather quickly.


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## Surveyor (Jul 17, 2016)

Model 80 is the holy grail of the JD carts. I know nothing about the sweeper.
 I say buy it.
One thing I will say is that mine has never liked to start when the engine is hot. It has never failed to start  but in case that one does the same thing thought I'd let you know.


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## jotul8e2 (Jul 17, 2016)

The only hidden issue with these is a possible worn out steering column.  They will be a bit stiff to turn until you get close to the limit, and then they get really hard to turn.  Ususally all they need is grease (the grease nipples are a bear to get to and this is often skipped), but if you have to rebuild you pull the engine to pull the column.

The 314 is part of the 1--, 2--, 3--, 4-- series tractors and there are roughly a gazillion out there.  These are arguably the best built lawn tractors ever made; they were seriously over-designed.  If you wanted to go through one and replace all worn parts you could use it two or three times a week for the next 30 years.  And someone could probably do it again.

It will run the 36" deck almost effortlessly, but has no problem with the 46" deck either.

Value?  It would be easy to get $700 worth of work out of a well kept one.


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## greg13 (Jul 18, 2016)

OK now stop and think for a second here. Surveyor has had his for 15 years and it's still going strong. I have a Cub cadet from the mid 70's that will run circles around most any new garden tractors. $700 is not a bad price and most tractors from that era are built like tanks. That was actually their downfall, they were built TOO good and would run forever so people would not have to buy another one.


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## KenLockett (Jul 18, 2016)

Thanks for the positive feedback. All excellent points. I am picking up the GT and attachments tomorrow night.


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## KenLockett (Jul 20, 2016)

Any of you guys either have an electronic copy of the 314 tractor manual or know where I can find one online?  Thanks.


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## Surveyor (Jul 20, 2016)

KenLockett said:


> Any of you guys either have an electronic copy of the 314 tractor manual or know where I can find one online?  Thanks.


I do not have electronic copy. I assume you are talking about the owners manual and not the repair manual.


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## DoubleB (Jul 20, 2016)

KenLockett said:


> Any of you guys either have an electronic copy of the 314 tractor manual or know where I can find one online? Thanks.



I get my info from Weekend Freedom Machines.  Really helpful folks.  They've steered me right before, whether to manuals, or just to the answer I need.  http://www.wfmachines.com/forums/forum.php

This site has a miscellaneous assortment that doesn't seem to have the 314 tractor manual, but has others you might eventually find interesting.
http://www.wfmfiles.com/download/

I think you did fine for $700.  I think the bigger question is whether you are am interested in working on an older tractor when it needs some TLC.  If that's ok, then I think these older tractors are great.  If you have more money than time, a newer one might have been the way to go.  Either way, you could turn around and sell it if you wanted to, even at a slight loss, without much pain.


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## KenLockett (Jul 20, 2016)

Yeah looking for the owners manual as I am trying to level deck and figure out height adjustment procedure/operation. A bit confusing relative to what I am used to.


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## DoubleB (Jul 20, 2016)

KenLockett said:


> I am trying to level deck and figure out height adjustment procedure/operation.



Pretty common question seen at WFM, do a search over there and you'll find the guidance.  But I agree with your interest for a manual, you'll want one sooner or later so might as well be sooner.

I'm not as familiar with the 314, but I bet the procedure is roughly:

-park on level ground/concrete
-cycle the lift lever to release rockshaft cylinder pressure.
-set deck wheels to desired nominal height (2.5", 3", etc.)
-adjust rockshaft stop until front deck wheels are about 1/4" off the ground.
-adjust rear deck lift linkages so that the deck is level side to side, and so that the rear of the deck is slightly (1/8") higher than the front of the deck.
-recheck front wheels to be about 1/4" off level ground, and that the rockshaft cylinder is relieved of pressure.  Repeat process if necessary.

Measure blade height, not deck wheels, since the blade height is what determines the height of your cut, and the wheels might be off a bit compared to your blades.

Again, I don't have a 314, but I think it's pretty similar to my 322.


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## Surveyor (Jul 20, 2016)

Sounds about right.


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## KenLockett (Jul 21, 2016)

Problem is when I have the front and rear wheels adjusted at say the position for 2" the front wheels are much lower to the ground than the rear wheels. I think I need to first adjust what I think are called the draft rods attached to the front of the deck to lift the nose of the deck to better level. These are like threaded rods. I believe this as when I lowner the deck the front wheels hit first then settles a bit before rear wheels hit. Lastly trying to figure out the height adjustment knob and wing piece up top for 'height adjustment,  I believe this piece acts like a height 'stop' when lowering deck but hard to see how it functions and not sure if I should tighten the wing against knob or against sleeve over threaded rod.


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## Surveyor (Jul 21, 2016)

It may be that the draft arms do need adjustment. This should be a once in a lifetime thing. Maybe it's never been right. One thing to make sure of is the tire pressure. Get a quality, low pressure tire gage. You would be amazed at how much this affects the deck.
As for the height adjustment knob, loosen the wing nut. Turn the knob the direction you need per the sticker below it. Once satisfied with the height, tighten the wing nut all the way down against the sleeve.


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## mass_burner (Jul 21, 2016)

Try mytractor forum website. I'm a member, lots of good information, heloful owners.


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## mass_burner (Jul 21, 2016)

Parts may be available for these, but finding an attachment you want could be impossible. I've been looking for a plow blade or snow thrower for a few years now for my 170.


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## Surveyor (Jul 21, 2016)

mass_burner said:


> Parts may be available for these, but finding an attachment you want could be impossible. I've been looking for a plow blade or snow thrower for a few years now for my 170.


Snowblowers and blades for these seem to be readily available in my area. Most blowers will need to have the bearings replaced if they have never been done.


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## gzecc (Jul 22, 2016)

IMO as long as its not smoking, the 700 should be fine. If this is your first older JD, congratulations. I've owned the 1980's JD models for many years. They are built like tanks.  As said before, if you don't have a problem fixing your own equipment its hard to go wrong with such a popular series of tractor.


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## maple1 (Jul 22, 2016)

KenLockett said:


> Problem is when I have the front and rear wheels adjusted at say the position for 2" the front wheels are much lower to the ground than the rear wheels. I think I need to first adjust what I think are called the draft rods attached to the front of the deck to lift the nose of the deck to better level. These are like threaded rods. I believe this as when I lowner the deck the front wheels hit first then settles a bit before rear wheels hit. Lastly trying to figure out the height adjustment knob and wing piece up top for 'height adjustment,  I believe this piece acts like a height 'stop' when lowering deck but hard to see how it functions and not sure if I should tighten the wing against knob or against sleeve over threaded rod.



Not quite the same tractor, but I just went through levelling my JD LA135 last weekend, and it sounds like the basics are the same.

Make sure tire pressures are OK.

Park on level surface & set the cutting height to what you usually mow at, measure & set the side to side first. I measured to the very bottom edge of the cutting deck, at each rear corner. Should be about 1/2" less that what height lever says - but that figure is not quite as important as getting each rear corner the same. Adjust the nuts under the rod sleeve to set. (That's likely where there might be some difference in mechanisms over the years).

Once you get it right side to side, check the front middle edge & set it so it's about 1/4" lower than the rear corners, using what sounds like your front draft rods. Mine only has one in the middle - sounds like yours has two?

Then, once you get the deck right, you can adjust the wheels by moving the wheel bolts up or down so the wheels are about 1/2" off the ground at cutting height. (Of course, if they're hitting the ground when you do the levelling above, you'll need to first raise them or take them off so the deck isn't resting on them).

My manual said to measure to the bottom outside tips of the blades for all this, but after checking, it was easier to measure to the bottom of the deck, and each blade had the same height difference to bottom of deck.

This was the first time I had gone through this with mine, I had just been using it the way it came from the dealer 5 or 6 years ago. My wheels were way out of adjustment for the height I mow at (I mow tall, they were set for short), it was tipped to one side, and it was way high on the front. So was cutting grass twice, back & front, with each pass. Seems much better now after one mowing.

Most important thing I found in that exercise, before I did all that, was remove the deck & get rid of the buildup underneath (I was amazed how much dead grass was stuck under there, the blades were pretty well up against it), wire wheel the bejeebers out of the underside (remove blades - I used a grinder with a big wire wheel), and re-paint. Mine was starting to rust, kinda bad for the age I thought. Funny how a little job like levelling a deck can snowball into other stuff...


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## KenLockett (Jul 23, 2016)

Surveyor said:


> Model 80 is the holy grail of the JD carts. I know nothing about the sweeper.
> I say buy it.
> One thing I will say is that mine has never liked to start when the engine is hot. It has never failed to start  but in case that one does the same thing thought I'd let you know.


YES Does not like to start when hot. Starts fine when cold. This is not going to work for me. Very frustrating if you have to shut engine down when mowing and can't restart. Did you ever try to make adjustment to correct this?  Carb adjustment maybe?  Anyone else have any ideas or thoughts?


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## KenLockett (Jul 23, 2016)

By the way did get the tractor leveled. Draft rods were way off and based upon the look of them and difficulty I had in loosening them would say they have always been out of adjustment. Mows much quieter now that deck is not diving into and dragging the ground.


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## Surveyor (Jul 23, 2016)

KenLockett said:


> YES Does not like to start when hot. Starts fine when cold. This is not going to work for me. Very frustrating if you have to shut engine down when mowing and can't restart. Did you ever try to make adjustment to correct this?  Carb adjustment maybe?  Anyone else have any ideas or thoughts?


While it is finicky when hot it, mine never fails to start when hot. Just takes a little throttle and choke action.
Let me know if you find anything.


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## KenLockett (Jul 23, 2016)

So when hot do you start will full throttle and you do use full choke or partial?


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## Surveyor (Jul 23, 2016)

KenLockett said:


> So when hot do you start will full throttle and you do use full choke or partial?


It's so second nature after all of these years. I'd have to do it and pay attention  next time. I've only had to mow once in the past month due to the dry weather. With 90s and no rain for another week it doesn't look like much mowing for the rest of the summer. 
Hang in there. You'll get it figured out.
Given what you found with the deck setup it won't be surprising if it needs a good carb cleaning.


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## greg13 (Jul 24, 2016)

Surveyor said:


> While it is finicky when hot it, mine never fails to start when hot. Just takes a little throttle and choke action.
> Let me know if you find anything.



Make sure the cooling fins on the head and block are clean and not plugged with grass. Also check the fuel lines, air cooled motors can vapor lock if they get too close to hot surfaces since most early ones don't use fuel pumps.


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## gzecc (Jul 24, 2016)

Go to Weekendfreedommachines.com to identify any problems you may have. People there know your machine like the back of their hands.


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## maple1 (Jul 25, 2016)

Running a tank (or two) of fuel through it with some Seafoam added might work wonders. It has for me before.


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