# Splitter Custom Fabrication



## ProfessorGT (Oct 26, 2010)

While I'm new to this forum, I have spent some time looking around, and there's obviously lots of great, very experienced woodsmen lurking in these parts!

I am in the process of planning my own hydraulic wood splitter build, and have been researching this for a while now. I have decided upon a Horizontal-Only machine, as my bad back just can't deal with the stooped-over posture necessary for working a vertical arrangement. Sitting down on the job is of no use either as this further aggravates my back because of the leaning forward issue.  Plus, once split in the vertical position, the splits are in the way!  I've worked with a few custom designed horizontal units, and a Speeco "22 Ton" horizontal/vertical machine using both positions (I love the false advertizing on their tonnage rating! - The math calculates out to about 18 tons at best!), and at the risk of sounding rude, my preference is horizontal! (Just a little bit of inuendo humor there!). :red:  

So, anyway horizontal, with a log lift is the way I will roll.

That said, the plan is to go with a 4-4.5" X 24 cylinder, with a 16 GPM 2-Stage pump and probably a 12 HP engine. (I want to keep the cycle times down as low as I can reasonably get them without taking the huge jump in price to a 22 GPM pump). I know only 8HP is necessary for the 16 GPM pump, but I'm of the school that says if 8HP will do, go larger and therefore don't work the engine as hard - yea the fuel consumption will be a bit greater, but it won't be working quite as hard, and therefore the added longevity of the engine should be a big plus also.

Definitely will go with a larger hydraulic tank, around 25 gal or so. This should help with better cooling, and it will definitely be a dedicated tank - one that doesn't try to be the axle also - axle tanks are a nice idea to save space and cost, but not the best design hydraulically - With respect to vortex flow, cleanliness and cooling, dedicated tanks are preferable. I've thought of possibly adding an external oil cooler, but I'll monitor hydraulic oil temp during operation first to see if it's really necessary.

The splitting wedge will be at the foot of the beam, the cylinder will have the push block on the end of its rod, and the use of tables to catch the splits will definitely be employed. One thing that I also want to do, that I have not seen on too many commercially available machines if any, is to have the tow hitch on the opposite end of the beam (engine end versus the wedge end). By doing this I may have to make the beam longer to obtain the proper weight bias for towing, but I can then leave the splitter hitched to the tow vehicle when splitting, which to me is a big plus.

I have not decided on exactly what approach I'm going to use on the log lift (hydraulic, electric linear actuator, or winch lift), so this is still up for debate, but as all these ideas are rolling around in the gray matter, any additional input on all areas of the design would be very much appreciated.

So, I guess what I'm saying is: In all the vast experience out there, if you could have all your favorite/ideal features built into one splitter with the above mentioned cylinder/pump combo, what would they be?


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## triptester (Oct 26, 2010)

If looking for a design that favors operator comfort you may consider looking at TimberDevil or SuperAxe. These splitters use a vertical wedge with a comfort height  table that holds the several blocks of wood through for complete operation.
Several people have used this design to make their splitters from scratch or have converted existing splitters to this style.

http://www.timberdevil.com/products.html

http://www.superaxe.com.au/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYrMBRFa-wc


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## SolarAndWood (Oct 26, 2010)

I have 4.5" with a 16gpm and I definitely would not call it fast.  Fast enough for me splitting alone but certainly not production fast.

12hp seems like overkill unless you have one laying around you want to use anyway.

The wedge is an interesting consideration and is highly dependent on what you are trying to process.  My wood is all scrounged and it is rare that I get a straight log.  So, the fat wedge that blows the round apart quickly works well.  However, if I ever have the opportunity to process strictly straight rounds, I would want the option for a 6 or 8 way wedge.  Another consideration is where you want the split to go.  With the fat wedge, it pops off onto the side table.  With the skinny, it exits of the end of the splitter.  Again, if you have straight rounds and can process them in one path, I would want the skinny wedge.  For me, I like them on the side table as it is a rare round that gets a single pass.

My tank is 9x7x16 and is too small for warmer days.  I can't run it for more than an hour or so when it is above 60.

Some day I will add a log lift.  For now when I am processing larger rounds, I put a round about half the height of the beam against the splitter and roll the rounds onto the beam.  My side table is equally crude and just a pile of rounds and splitter crap about the height of the beam.  Both work fine for now but I will do something more elegant at some point.

Good luck with your project.


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## SolarAndWood (Oct 26, 2010)

triptester said:
			
		

> http://www.superaxe.com.au/



This is probably the best argument I've seen for vertical splitting.  Thanks for the link.


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## blades (Oct 26, 2010)

I have a 12" high x 1.5" x 8" deep wedge on the end of the beam, 30 deg bevel each side, behind the wedge is a 2"sq. x 12" H x schedule 80 steel tube welded to back edge of wedge to act as a spreader ( a 3" would maybe have been nicer but it was what was around the shop), works well. Slices then pops the split apart, I seldom lose anything off the 2 ft wide table.  You do want to run some legs for the table forward of the wedge on a downward angle to lift anything that might be hanging low otherwise it is possible to get it hung up on edge of table, you can guess the result of this senario. If you set your working height right and have the hitch on the wedge end ( no reason can't have one on both ends)you could conceivably have the splits pushed right into the truck bed or trailer, might have to use a trough though ( just a thought). Watch out for the height of the push plate 8" is enough, height wise, there is a lot of pressure trying to bend it back which would be transmitted to the guides or flanges if using a I or H beam.


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## Jags (Oct 26, 2010)

Professor - your splitter is ready:
(with the exception of the tow direction)


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## ProfessorGT (Oct 26, 2010)

WOW! Not even 24 hours have passed, and lots of really great responses already!

That Auzzie "Super Axe" absolutely knocked my socks off! What a brilliant example of what can be done when folks get creative. It's truly a very well thought out machine, folding elevator, log lift, and all. It's certainly a very compelling arguement for "Going Vertical", and has opened my eyes to many new considerations!

I knew this was going to happen! Now I have to re-think things once again, but that's a good thing.

All the comments thus far are great points that are important considerations. I was adamant about having the tow hitch on the cylinder end of the beam, but now I really like the thought of having the tow vehicle at the wedge end, so that the splits will push themselves right into the receptacle, in my case the bed of my truck! Heck, why not have a hitch at the other end as well, so one is used for manuvering around the property, and the other is used for hauling on the open road. 

The one thing I have not seen much of is any sort of suspension system, except on just a few machines, so that over the road towing is easier on the machine. My thought is to use the rubber-type torsion stub axle shaft units, so that you get the best of both worlds: a suspension system to absorb road shock, without having the complexity and space considerations of a leaf spring set up getting in the way. See torsion axle halves here: http://www.trailerpart.com/halftorsionaxles.htm

Another idea I picked up is using the motion of the ram to raise a log lift (without splitting a round) by adding a cable and associated components to the design - a great example of the KISS principle in action.


I'm really very appreciative of everyone sharing their ideas. I'm going to keep looking and learning, and see what more materializes. This will be a great compilation of information for anyone interested in building a splitter, or even those who just want to do their homework before purchasing a pre-built commercially available or home-made machine.


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## SolarAndWood (Oct 26, 2010)

ProfessorGT said:
			
		

> The one thing I have not seen much of is any sort of suspension system, except on just a few machines, so that over the road towing is easier on the machine.



Put enough steel in it and all you need to do is lower the air pressure a bit before you go down the road.


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## Jags (Oct 26, 2010)

Depending on design - suspension can complicate the log lifter.  Picking up a 400 pounder already "squishes" the tire a bit on that side.  If it was on a suspension, I would imagine that it could/would deflect the suspension to the point where it could cause issues.

Edit: Hmmm....maybe some sort of suspension "block" would be in order when you are not on the road.  Just thinking....


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## triptester (Oct 26, 2010)

Most axle manufacturers lower the ratings of their axles, spindles, and bearings by as much as 50% when axles are mounted solid.


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## Dieseltech94 (Oct 26, 2010)

Most axle ratings will not have a problem holding a machine that is under half a ton.  Possibly a simple outrigger system made of some top wind trailer jacks to prevent suspension squat when running the log lift may be the right medicine.  Love the suspension idea.  Most splitters are very unsafe to tow due to lack of suspension and a very narrow width.  My American 24 H/V goes on a trailer to be transported.  Maybe I am overly concerned about trailer safety.


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## Dune (Oct 27, 2010)

I used this http://www.kmtparts.com/store.asp?pid=9284  axel for my splitter.


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## 'bert (Oct 27, 2010)

I'll take an opportunity to toss old the old pic of my splitter.  It now has a log lift also (which I need to get a new pic of).  The wheels on mine were undersized on purpose, it is moved around my acreage with my quad only, and no further.  (ie - no lending it out)

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_R6u-xVaOlHE/TMem5E-nODI/AAAAAAAAAGo/KuAJ5oS-Pb8/splitterforweb.jpg


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## ProfessorGT (Oct 28, 2010)

The torsion axles I have in mind are these: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200335738_200335738&issearch=224221
The capacity for the pair is 1000lbs. - just right!

These individual units give you lots of flexibility in your design, and if the additional weight load generated with a log lift causes concern, simple fold down, over center type out riggers, which lift the axle slightly higher than the "at-rest" attitude, could be fabricated. - fold down and and lock into position for working, and fold up and lock out of the way for transportation.  

Yea, that's the ticket! See, now I know just how I'm going to approach that one too. One more checked off the list!

Dune, how did using the complete torsion axle set work out? My only hesitation in doing it that way is that I could not find a complete torsion axle rated for anything less than 2000lbs, and putting a log splitter on such an axle would be like not having much of a suspension at all as the splitter is not heavy enough to properly take advantage of such a heavy spring.

Great stuff guys, keep it coming!


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## johnnywarm (Oct 28, 2010)

i used a rear Axel out of a caravan.pics tomorrow evening.


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## ProfessorGT (Oct 28, 2010)

Hey,

Can anyone post some specs and maybe some pics on thier hydraulic log lift? Size of the cylinder, and general dimensions of the lift table would be great! I haven't been able to get to any places that have machines w/log lifts, so I haven't been able to get any pics nor take any measurements, therefore info from the group would be a huge help. 

Through this forum, yesterday I purchased some parts, and a smallish non-working splitter. I got a nice NIB (New-In-Box) 4X24X2 Welded Cylinder w/clevices, a NIB Prince LS 3000-1 valve, and some other misc stuff. Not sure of the pump size on the splitter (have to try to identify it), but  the splitter valve on it looks to be fairly new and in good shape. The thing didn't work too good when it was running (engine has since been removed) because the cylinder looks to be way too small: the diameter of the tube can't be much more than 2" at most, so even at 2500 to 3000 psi, a 2" cylinder would only make 4-5 tons of splitting force! The guy I got it from said that if the round was clear it would split it, but otherwise it just could not get through the log at all.
:shut: 
He said the engine was not laboring, so I'm guessing that it just could not make enough force with such a small cylinder.

Anyway, with this in mind, I may decide to use the valve and maybe that cylinder for a log lift, although I think the cylinder is probably too long for that purpose. Anyway, having the valve and the hydraulic lines goes a long way toward giving me what I'll need to do a hydraulic log lift, so going hydraulic instead of some other method for the lift is looking better and better all the time. :cheese:


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## Badfish740 (Oct 29, 2010)

Getting back to the idea of using a wedge with a spreader I need to get pics of my Lickety Splitter up (still haven't found time to get it from my dad) but in the meantime here is a link to another thread on them-they use a wedge that's constructed from steel plate which enables you to make it as wide as you want basically:

Pic is in the second post down


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## ProfessorGT (Nov 1, 2010)

Here's a quick chart I whipped up based upon standard claculations, found here: 

http://www.baumhydraulics.com/calculators/cyl_speed.htm


Cylinder Cycle Time Chart (seconds)

GPM--Bore Size----Rod Dia----Stroke--Extend Time--Retract Time--Total Cycle

11---------4-----------1.5 --------24-----------7.1-----------6.2---------13.3
11---------4------------2----------24-----------7.1-----------5.3---------12.4

16---------4------------2----------24-----------4.9-----------4.2---------9.1***
16---------4------------2----------30-----------6.1-----------4.6---------10.7

22---------4------------2----------24-----------3.6-----------2.1---------6.3
22---------4------------2----------30-----------4.5-----------3.3---------7.8

28---------4------------2----------24-----------2.8-----------2.1---------4.9
28---------4------------2----------30-----------3.5-----------2.6---------6.1

16---------4.5----------2----------24-----------6.2------------5----------11.2
16---------4.5----------2----------30-----------7.7-----------6.3---------14

22---------4.5----------2----------24-----------4.5-----------3.6---------8.1
22---------4.5----------2----------30-----------5.7-----------4.5---------10.2

28---------4.5----------2----------24-----------3.5-----------2.9---------6.4
28---------4.5----------2----------30-----------4.4-----------3.6---------8

16---------5------------2----------24-----------7.7-----------6.5---------14.2
16---------5------------2----------30-----------9.7-----------8.1---------17.8

22---------5------------2----------24-----------5.6-----------4.7---------10.3
22---------5------------2----------30-----------7-------------5.9---------12.9

28---------5------------2----------24-----------4.4-----------3.7---------8.1
28---------5------------2----------30-----------5.5-----------4.6---------10.1

There's really no surprise here, but it's nice to see the data so that you can plan whe you will wind up with. Of course these calculations assume the cylinder to be cycling at max speed, and does not take into account slowing down to the "power stage" when you hit knots and so on.

What it made me realize, is that it would be nice to get the faster cycle times available with the larger pumps, but if you stay with a 16 gpm 2-stage pump you can get sub-10 second cycle times***, without spending a LOT more on the 22 gpm pump (at least twice the price of the 16 gpm pumps). Plus, with the larger pump you need to spend more for a larger engine (= higher fuel consumption), and you have to go for a valve with 3/4" work ports, so that requires larger, more expensive hoses/lines. All this extra expense for just a bit faster cycle time. It looks like the 16 gpm pump set-up is the best bang for the buck overall.



Here are the engine HP requirements for each pump:

Engine Requirements:                

Hp to drive single stage hydraulic pump  = GPM X psi / 1714 X % Pump Efficiency                

        11 GPM X 2500/1714 X 85% = 16.4 hp
        16 GPM X 2500/1714 X 85% = 23.8 hp
        22 GPM X 2500/1714 X 85% = 32.7 hp
        28 GPM X 2500/1714 X 85% = 49.0 hp

General Rule for 2-stage Pumps: 1/2 hp per gallon/min                

        11 GPM    5.5 hp    6 hp recommended
        16 GPM    8 hp       9 hp recommended
        22 GPM    11 hp     13 hp recommended
        28 GPM    14 hp     17 - 18 hp recommended

Enjoy! ;-P

And don't forget, let's see your Log Lifts!


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## Gary_602z (Nov 1, 2010)

Here is one me and my buddy made!
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/54677/#610775

Gary


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## SolarAndWood (Nov 1, 2010)

ProfessorGT said:
			
		

> What it made me realize, is that it would be nice to get the faster cycle times available with the larger pumps, but if you stay with a 16 gpm 2-stage pump you can get sub-10 second cycle times***, without spending a LOT more on the 22 gpm pump (at least twice the price of the 16 gpm pumps). Plus, with the larger pump you need to spend more for a larger engine (= higher fuel consumption), and you have to go for a valve with 3/4" work ports, so that requires larger, more expensive hoses/lines. All this extra expense for just a bit faster cycle time. It looks like the 16 gpm pump set-up is the best bang for the buck overall.



Every time I think about going up I come back to that same conclusion.  The 4.5 cylinder does everything I need it to and the 16gpm pumps splits the wood as fast as I can feed and remove it.


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## ProfessorGT (Nov 3, 2010)

S&W,

Thanks for the confirmation of my thought on sticking with the 16 gpm pump setup. I found a 16 gpm pump online tonight for $115.00 which seems like a good deal, but I hope to find an even better deal somewhere else. I have the luxury of time on my side at this point so I can wait for something better to come along. I'm not in any hurry because I already my splitting for this year, so I won't need a splitter any more till next year.

In spite of this, I'm still anxious to begin building my splitter. I have the base system all planned out, and at this point all I need to do is obtain a nice heavy beam, and begin fabricating. I still need to plan out my log lift though, hence my previous post asking folks to post comments/specs, etc., of thier log lifts. 

Come on guys - lets hear about it!  :gulp:


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## ProfessorGT (Nov 3, 2010)

Gary_602z said:
			
		

> Here is one me and my buddy made!
> https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/54677/#610775
> 
> Gary




Gary,

A+ for originality! Nice Job. Now all you need to do is add a drive system and a front steer axle so you can have a seat and drive the splitter onsite to where ever you want to do your work. :>)

I actually have a couple of old 12HP Craftsman Lawn Tractors that I will most likely be swiping an engine from to power my splitter. I know it's more than I need for the pump size, but hey, I can't beat the price, and I've even got a spare for backup parts. I like the idea of the larger engine: A) so it doesn't have to work as hard, and B) so I have the electric starter, and the alternator. The alternator can charger the battery when it's running obviously, and more importantly will be able to provide 12V power for a winch I plan to add, and for possibly some work lights so that when splitting into the evening hours I don't have to stop until I'm done, even if the sun goes down!

The winch will be mounted on a truck lift (cherry picker) at the rear of the beam, and can be used for a few purposes: A) to drag heavy rounds over to the splitter where they can then easily be put on the log lift- winch has a 30' cable, B) to lift heavy rounds directly onto the splitter without the use of a log lift, C) to lift heavy logs onto a log holder so they can be bucked. I really like the idea of the Cherry Picker/Winch combo. I use one now to lift heavy objects onto my utility trailer, and it has become an indispensible addition, that I'm very happy I invested in.  

After seeing your creation, who knows what lies ahead! Thanks, it always great to see the creativity folks like you put into their work, to make their projects unique, while at the same time being fully functional. It shows that you have a passion for what you've done, and a sense of humor to boot!

Split-On! :coolgrin:


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## Jamess67 (Nov 3, 2010)

I fabbed my splitter with a 8 hp, 11gpm, and 4x24x 2in rod. and my cycle times are close to 20 sec one direction only. What gives??? Not anywhere close to the 12 sec total listed above.


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## ProfessorGT (Nov 3, 2010)

Jamess67 said:
			
		

> I fabbed my splitter with a 8 hp, 11gpm, and 4x24x 2in rod. and my cycle times are close to 20 sec one direction only. What gives??? Not anywhere close to the 12 sec total listed above.



James,

Hit the posted link to make sure I didn't goof in copying over the results into my chart, but I don't think I did. This calculation assumes that the total system is built adequately with respect to flow (hose sizes and so on). It also assumes the pump is putting out the proper volume of oil in gpm, which is also is a function of engine/pump rpm. Flow volume gives you cycle time, and pressure gives you force. Pump performance, pump rpm, and hose size all need to be checked. If your cycle time is truly 20 seconds as you state, I suspect the pump is not delivering the proper volume for some reason. If it is a two stage pump, the shuttle valve may be malfunctioning, not giving you the additional volume it should. With an 8hp engine you should be able to get away with a 16 gpm 2-stage pump. They are about $130.00, so if all else is good and you can afford the upgrade, that is my recommendation.

If your reservoir is large enough, you could put the output hose into a drum, and see if you get approx., 5.5 gallons in 30 seconds at rated rpm of 3600. This would be a pretty good indication that you are getting proper pump output. If so, then you would need to put a pressure gauge in the system to see if for some reason you have high pressure when not under load, tripping the pump shuttle valve and putting the pump into high pressure/low volume mode, thereby causing your very long cycle times.

Lastly, check to be sure you don't have something funky going on with your hoses as far as restrictions go, and if you have a suction strainer, make sure it is not dirty/restricted. Good hydraulic design actually suggests not having a suction strainer, but having a return line filter instead, and having a screen on the fill tube so it limits the chances of contaminants getting into the tank in the first place. This allows the filter to catch any small comtaminants, while at the same time eliminating the suction strainer as a possible problem. Obviously if going this route, system cleanliness is paramount, but then again it is no matter how you have your system set up. Just as with automatic transmission hydraulics, as they say, "Cleanliness is next to Godliness"!

Rock On!   :coolgrin:


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## Jamess67 (Nov 3, 2010)

Thanks for the reply Professor. After building this machine (with used pump) I did manage to get some metal chips in the pump and locked it up. I got everything cleared out and it runs well now. I have all the right size hoses and there is no suction strainer. I did have a suction filter AFTER I locked up the pump, but have since removed it to see why its so slow. I have a pressure gauge and it maxes out at around 2400 psi so the shuttle valve is working. On while in operation I can easily squeeze the return hose, which tells me that there is no restriction in the return line, however, also suggests that the pump gears are damaged from the metal chips. If this is the case i may be looking at the larger pump. 
Again thanks for your time in replying. 

James


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## Cowboy Billy (Nov 7, 2010)

Howdy Professor

   I too am planning my splitter build. Since I have one that my grandpa built I have been taking my time and looking around and trying to figure out just what I want. Grandpa's was built using a drop axle and while it works good I am always bent over using and is a pain in the back. So work height is a very important factor!

   Mine will also discharge the wood out the back. With Grandpa's it discharges towards the hitch and you have to move all the wood before you move the splitter. It will have a box wedge like a TW-7. Which is really nice since all the wood coming out is fully sized and the remainder of the wood sits on top of the wedge and after you retract the ram you pull the block of wood back and drop it on the beam with no lifting and run it through again. The only draw back it you have to fully extend the ram each time. But it will allow me to make a shoot on the back of the wedge (like on the discharge end of a square baler) that will lift the split wood higher so I can split a lot before having to move the splitter or I can put a hitch on the back of the splitter pull a trailer and have it drop the wood on a trailer if I am doing a lot of small piles in the woods.

   The beam is going to be offset on the trailer so I can mount a operators chair on it but the controls will be set up so it is comfortable using standing or sitting. It is going to be powered by a 13.7 hp two cylinder Perkins diesel. And I have a 5x24 cylinder for it. Since the engine has a 60 amp alternator on it I am also going to put a 3500 watt power inverter on it for 110v power. And I have a electric V-belt clutch that will run a air compressor. 

   Its going to be a really cool project but I am not going to start on it until middle of this winter.

You might want to look at the video for the TW-7 http://www.timberwolfcorp.com/log_splitters/default.asp?id=13

Billy


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## flyingcow (Nov 7, 2010)

Technical stuff is a little over my head. 

But, i like the Timberwolfs' design for picking up heavy rounds. 

My splitter is at waist level, with a big table. Only way to go with a horizontal. Occasionally will help out various neighbors, and the splitters are a lot lower, with no table. Hard on the back, seem to pick wood to re-split it too often. 

Take the high table with a lift to get the big ones up there, now you got a winner. IMO.


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