# Help Me Identify This Stove



## Godchaser (Oct 28, 2015)

We just purchased a home this summer and quickly learned after a recent 2-day cold snap that we need a wood burner in our Florida room.  However, as most companies have already jacked their prices up, we are going to wait until next summer to purchase a new one.  In the mean time, a friend had one he wasn't using that I'm installing (as it's about the same dimensions as the one we're looking to buy).  The blower works great and I'm planning to paint this weekend.  Just out of curiosity, I'd like identify it.  (The 2 pipes on the top are just extra pieces. I'm replacing it with new triple wall pipe.) Thanks.


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## mellow (Oct 28, 2015)

Old Buck stove or a clone,  the back should have the UL tags hopefully still attached to it, if no UL tags it is more than likely a clone.  You will need a pedestal and hopefully the rectangle to round adapter comes with it.

I personally wouldn't use it as these require 8" pipe, the new stove would require 6",  I would stick with something used that runs on 6" pipe.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/what-is-this-mammoth.72855/
How to identify model:  https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/old-buck-stove-information-one-stop-resource.125611/


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## Godchaser (Oct 28, 2015)

mellow said:


> Old Buck stove or a clone,  the back should have the UL tags hopefully still attached to it, if no UL tags it is more than likely a clone.  You will need a pedestal and hopefully the rectangle to round adapter comes with it.
> 
> I personally wouldn't use it as these require 8" pipe, the new stove would require 6",  I would stick with something used that runs on 6" pipe.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the reply! It does have a rectangle to round and a reducer from 8" to 6" (yes, installing 6" pipe).  It does have the pedestal.  Two other questions...

1 - Are these stoves safe (assuming the proper clearance during install)?
2 - Should I put an iron grate inside to allow airflow underneath the wood?

Thanks.


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## mellow (Oct 28, 2015)

How tall is your chimney going to be?  In order for it to draft good you will be looking at needing 20+ feet if you are reducing to 6".


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## Godchaser (Oct 28, 2015)

Ok this may be where it gets tricky.  The wood stove we are looking at getting next summer when prices drop is the Pleasant Hearth Large Stove 2,200 sq. ft. (image below, though I'm open to suggestions).  I was planning a 15 ft. chimney.  I'll double check, but the apex in this room that extends off the house is 12 ft.  It was a concrete slab that they enclosed and is our main living room.  I was thinking the 15 ft. chimney would get me the a bit over the required 2 ft. above the apex.  (Sorry if not making sense, trying to learn as a newb!)


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## mellow (Oct 28, 2015)

Godchaser said:


> I was planning a 15 ft. chimney.



I can pretty much guarantee wood smoke spillage when you open the doors at that height, you might get by but I have seen it tried many times and people report back they are living with the smoke rolling out the doors during a reload.


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## Godchaser (Oct 28, 2015)

Ok so am I understanding that even with the new model I mentioned (or one similar to it) we would need that 20 ft. chimney too?


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## brad wilton (Oct 28, 2015)

To me that sq footage of stove seems a bit much for florida? I use a stove thats good for 3600sqft in a uninsulated stone house in canada.


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## Godchaser (Oct 28, 2015)

Um... ok sorry for the confusion.  The room is called a "florida room".  I live in the hills of WV.  The room was built as an addition on to the home by the previous owner.  It was originally a concrete slab, but then was walled in with 8 large, energy-efficient windows and french doors going out to the deck.  The room is about 15' x 15' (maybe a bit bigger) with a vaulted 12' ceiling.  There is only one run there from our existing furnace and the windows allow it to stay chilly.


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## brad wilton (Oct 28, 2015)

My bad missed room part of post,gotta get to optometrist so it's not a room you use everyday?


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## Godchaser (Oct 28, 2015)

brad wilton said:


> My bad missed room part of post,gotta get to optometrist so it's not a room you use everyday?



Yes we use it everyday. It has turned out to be our main living room since it is off the dining room/kitchen.


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## mellow (Oct 28, 2015)

Godchaser said:


> Ok so am I understanding that even with the new model I mentioned (or one similar to it) we would need that 20 ft. chimney too?



No, the minimum for most newer stoves is 15 feet.  Your issue is you are trying to use a stove that was designed for an 8" liner and neck it down to 6" which reduces the volume of the chimney and therefore your draft, it usually only works if you have a taller chimney and even then sometimes you will get smoke spillage.


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## brad wilton (Oct 28, 2015)

I would'nt waste your time or money hooking up the old stove,if it's open to the rest of the house as in no interior wall if you can just invest in new stove and 6"pipe and be done with it,and enjoy the heat. If you can't this year wait till spring and do it then.trust me you will be kicking yourself if you don't.you could put your 8"pipe and then buy a stove with 8"flue they are out there but not as much choice.


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## Godchaser (Oct 28, 2015)

The issue we're facing is that there is only one run from the furnace to that room that is inadequate.  Now that prices have gone up significantly on wood stoves, we wish to wait until this spring/summer to get a new one.  Since our rural location limits us to propane, the headache of putting this old one in would be a worthwhile trade-off considering what I will spend in propane.

That said, after talking with a friend of a friend who has put these in before, he warned against reducing this old one from 8" to 6" for similar reasons as Mellow mentioned.  So the plan is to install the old one with the 8" chimney and when I purchase the new one, simply get a reducer from 8" to 6" so it will match the new stove.  He said it won't hurt to run a stove built for 6" into a 8" chimney, but not the other way around.

Thoughts?


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## mellow (Oct 28, 2015)

Seems to me you are trying to stick a square plug into a circle hole, 8" pipe / install accessories is quite a jump in price over 6".  I would use an electric heater till you have enough $$ to do it proper.


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## Godchaser (Oct 28, 2015)

Yeah you may be right.  However, I do get the pipe at cost (friend is HVAC guy), so price is not a huge ordeal.  There is a propane stove there, but don't even want to think about how much it will burn through.  Guess I have some thinking to do.  But just curious the new stove made for 6" would work ok with an 8" chimney if I go that way?


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## mellow (Oct 28, 2015)

At 15 foot in theory you should be ok but stove manufacturers want the same size pipe all the way.  

See if your friend can get you a new woodstove at cost, I know some HVAC companies can order from distributors that also sell wood stoves.


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## Grisu (Oct 28, 2015)

Godchaser said:


> Now that prices have gone up significantly on wood stoves, we wish to wait until this spring/summer to get a new one. Since our rural location limits us to propane, the headache of putting this old one in would be a worthwhile trade-off considering what I will spend in propane.



Not sure if you are not overestimating your savings. If the stove has no UL-tag you will need to have clearances of 36" to all sides. That will take up a lot of real estate in a 15x15 room. Plus, your chimney location will be totally off when you finally get a new stove with more standard clearances. You could build ventilated wall shields to reduce clearances to 12" but that will then be another expense that you could skip with a new stove. Let's not talk about the hearth requirements of this old stove either.

I also don't know what you mean with "prices have gone up significantly". The big-box store stoves you are looking at may be on sale for $200 to $300 less in the spring. Add together the costs for reducer, wall shields, beefy hearth etc and you save maybe $100 by installing that old stove first; not talking about all that additional labor. Plus, that old stove needs about 1.5x to 2x more wood than a new stove for the same heat. I hope you are not buying that or that old one gets you quickly in the red.

Regarding your future stove choice: I always recommend to check the review section and do a forum search to learn more about the different models before buying. Other budget stoves to consider: Englander/Summers Heat Madison (e. g. [$900] skip that, it is $750 at Lowes currently), Pacific Energy TrueNorth TN20, Drolet Escape 1800, Heatilator Eco-choice WS18 or 22, Timberwolf EPA2200


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## Godchaser (Oct 29, 2015)

Wow... So glad I found this site.  Thank you Grisu for your wisdom.  Now that I know all that and input from others here, I've decided to get a new one.  Here is the one I'm considering as Lowe's has it in stock and I get my military discount there...

http://www.lowes.com/pd_669022-76845-50-SHSSW01___

Thoughts?


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## Grisu (Oct 29, 2015)

That's the Englander Madison. (I corrected the price in my previous post.) It is a new model  just getting into its second season. When you go to the main forum and look for "Madison" you will already find several threads about it. Englander is a perennial favorite here for solidly built budget stoves. Some members have their 30NC running close to 10 years by now. If you can feed it dry wood with internal moisture of less than 20% I am pretty sure you will be happy with that stove.


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