# Quadrafire Castile Pellet Insert - 2006 model - 100% Dead



## grendel336 (Feb 5, 2012)

Hi, 

I have a Quadrafire Castile pellet stove insert. I bought it new in 2006. Original owner. 

Never any problems with it until this week. 

Ran perfectly every winter, then one night this week went to turn on stove using wall thermostat and there was nothing. 

Not a blinking light on control box. Not a fan stirred. No noise. Nothing. 

I checked the main fuse near the control box. It's fine. 
I checked to see if the fans still freely spin. They do. 

I checked to make sure my wall outlet still had power. It does. 

If a snap disk is "blown" would that completely shut off all power to the control box? No lights at all anywhere? 

Is my first step to just replace all snap disks and hope that's the problem? That's certainly cheaper than ordering a new control box.

Also, there's a third snap disk right? I found the two right near the control box. Where's the third one? 

What else can I check before calling a technician to come look at my stove? 
Is there a way to check snap disks if I have no power anywhere? 

Thank you very much for any and all suggestions.


----------



## Jack Morrissey (Feb 5, 2012)

!st thing you should unplug the stove and then plug back in to see iff it resets.


----------



## Rick @ Great Northeast (Feb 5, 2012)

I would check the end of the 120 volt line that goes to stove, make sure connections or tight and you have power @ the end.


----------



## jtakeman (Feb 5, 2012)

grendel336 said:
			
		

> If a snap disk is "blown" would that completely shut off all power to the control box? No lights at all anywhere?



Yes, The high limit. Should be on the auger tube. It has a manual reset red push button. It will kill power to the unit until its reset. If its tripped, You might want to clean the convection blower. It the high limit tripped, Its because the unit got too hot.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 5, 2012)

Yes. I unplugged unit and left it unplugged for hours, then plugged back in. Nothing. 
I'm also sure the connections are all good. Unplugged and replugged numerous times. 


Will check auger tube snap disk. 

Thanks.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Feb 5, 2012)

My first reaction was to also say unplug and replug.  Second suggestion was to replace batteries in thermostat since mine wouldn't turn on call light this fall until I put new batteries in it.  Both of those are out the window with you cycling power and having no exhaust fan.  Yep, best hope is #3 snap disk followed by fuse.  There is also a small 0.7 amp fuse on inside of control box to check.  It also would not hurt to UNPLUG THE STOVE AND THEN unplug and reseat the control box.  Many times after this long, slight corrosion on terminals can cause problems.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 5, 2012)

What does a bad snap disk look like?

Here's mine: 






How does one reset it?


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 5, 2012)

No batteries in thermostat. 

How does one open the control box? Just pry it open with screw driver? 

Thanks to all for prompt replies.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 5, 2012)

Fuse inside control box looks fine.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 5, 2012)

And I did find snap disk on auger:






So how does one reset a snapdisk? 

Or how does one know if it needs to be reset? Does it look different?


----------



## tjnamtiw (Feb 5, 2012)

See the finger sticking up between the two terminals?  If you push it down slowly and you feel a 'snap', then it was tripped.  If you feel nothing then it was either not tripped or it's bad.  Unplug the terminals and measure across the terminals with an ohm meter.  That one should read 0 ohms meaning it's closed.  I see it looks like all your disks are resettable.  Interesting as mine are not.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Feb 5, 2012)

If it's not the main fuse or the snap disk#3, if your stove has a two prong receptacle on the base of the control board mounting box, see if you have 110 volts there.  There is no fuse protection at that point and if you don't have power, then the plug coming into the stove is bad.  If you don't have that receptacle, then it sure looks like a bad control board.  Do you have a dealer who will swap one out to see if a new one works or if yours will work in their stove?  I don't see anything that indicates an obvious problem on the board.  The transformer is a little brown but that's pretty normal.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 5, 2012)

Checked outlet and the end of the power cord that goes into stove. 

Same readings on volt meter. 

Cord is not the issue. 

I've pressed the snap disk tabs about a million times. Various pressures without going crazy.

Noticed no changes. No clicks. Nothing. 

I may have access to a dealer. He has a Castile freestanding model. 

What are the odds my control board from 2006 would fit his free standing model that's surely pretty new?


----------



## mr coffee (Feb 5, 2012)

tjnamtiw said:
			
		

> The transformer is a little brown but that's pretty normal.



in my world that would be DOA.. is there a schematic around to trouble shoot (if you were so inclined..)

AND have the unit un plugged why you are prying/pulling and generally getting you hands up in there






this is one example of snapdisc with reset


----------



## tjnamtiw (Feb 5, 2012)

OK, the very FIRST time you pressed in the snap disk, did you feel it snap?  After that, you wouldn't feel any snap if it were reset.

Since you have a volt meter, I assume you also have an ohm meter function on it.  Did you test across the snap disk with the leads pulled off?

You DID check the main fuse, right?  I know it's a simple question but humor me.  

The receptacle I was talking about would be internal to the fireplace at the base of the control box .

You could also try putting a jumper between the two leads that were attached to snap disk 3 JUST to see if you get life in the control box.

Is your control box a gray one or a translucent one with the red and green lights internal? (((ah, I see the LED in the lower right corner so I assume it's the newer translucent one)

Yes, either way a new box would work in your stove and should also work the dealer's new stove.  Your box should flash blue six times when first energized.  His, being a free standing Castile will flash 5 times but that's no problem and won't hurt anything.  You just want to see if your board is dead or not.

I also sent you a PM.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Feb 5, 2012)

This is a schematic of the Castile Insert from our age group, I believe.  I modified it in the past to show how I wired it to keep the convection fan on high at all feed rates.  Should help in troubleshooting.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 5, 2012)

I will check across leads with ohm meter right now. 

Yes - I have checked the main fuse about 5 times.

Control box is translucent.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 5, 2012)

grendel336 said:
			
		

> I will check across leads with ohm meter right now.
> 
> Yes - I have checked the main fuse about 5 times.



I have a really old digital  multimeter. Not exactly sure what I'm looking for. 

When I touched leads together the numbers changed. 
That's basically what I'm looking for right? 

So I unplugged the snap disks and touched the multimeter leads to the snap disk tabs.
On both the resetable snap disks I saw the same change in numbers on the multimeter that I saw when I just touched the leads together. 

On the one snap disk that is *not* resetable I got no reading change at all.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Feb 6, 2012)

grendel336 said:
			
		

> grendel336 said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



OK, sounds like you are on the ohms or resistance scale like you should be.  Snap disk #1 controls the room fan so I would guess that's the one that the reading didn't change on.  It has purple wires running to it.  Since the reading didn't change, it indicates the switch is open and will close when it gets hot enough.
Snap disk #2 and3 should be closed so they should read just the same as when you touch the meter leads together, which they did.  Soooooo, sounds like the snap disks are OK and you're down to testing the control box in another stove.  

There was someone on the forum who was toying with the idea of repairing the control boxes.  Can't remember who but maybe a 'search' might turn him up.  

I'm sending you the service manual that might help a little too.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 6, 2012)

Thanks a bunch. 

Thanks to all. 

I was afraid it was the control box and so far all arrows point that way. 

I'll follow up with whatever I find out. I'm hoping local dealer will be able to test my box in his stove before I order a replacement. 

But what else could it be? 

There's little left to this stove.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 6, 2012)

Anybody purchased a control box from Amazon, or even eBay? 

I'm seeing price ranges from $290 to over $400. 

eBay always makes me nervous. Is it a rebuilt one being sold "as new"? 

I hope I can support my local dealer, but if his price is in that "over $400" range I might be forced to look elsewhere. 

Thoughts?


----------



## wwert (Feb 6, 2012)

Before I started throwing money at that stove I wold put a jumper between the 2 wires that go to the snap disc. Remove both wires from disc, insert jumper wire between the 2 wires. Turn stove on and see if it works, if it does replace the switch. Always check the least expensive parts first. Good luck.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 6, 2012)

wwert said:
			
		

> Before I started throwing money at that stove I wold put a jumper between the 2 wires that go to the snap disc. Remove both wires from disc, insert jumper wire between the 2 wires. Turn stove on and see if it works, if it does replace the switch. Always check the least expensive parts first. Good luck.



My immediate plan is to see if I can arrange to drop my control box into the local dealership's freestanding Castile stove on their showroom floor. 

If that can be arranged I'll have a very direct answer as to if I need a new control box. 

That local dealer is closed today. I might not be able to get out there until Wednesday at the earliest. 

In the mean time I will be making a jumper wire to try the snap disk by-pass test.


----------



## Turbo-Quad (Feb 6, 2012)

Let us know if its the snap disc......fingers crossed.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Feb 6, 2012)

Turbo-Quad said:
			
		

> Let us know if its the snap disc......fingers crossed.



Hey Turbo, you were the one looking to rebuild the control boxes, weren't you?  Or was it B-Mod?


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 6, 2012)

Jumper cable:






Jumping snap disks in order













No lights, no fans, no nothing.

It's not the snap disks. Damn.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Feb 7, 2012)

Darn.  With the stove plugged in, do you measure any voltage at either of the gray wires on Snap disk #3 from there to the chassis?  If you look at page 14 of the manual I sent you, unplug the stove.  Then remove the control box, set your meter back on ohms and test from pin (plug) 5 to the blades of the power plug.  One of them should show 0 ohms (like when you touch the probes together).  

With your meter set back on AC volts, the control box still unplugged, and the stove plugged in, you should read 110 volts from plug 5 and plug 12.  (see the diagram).  If you have power there, then it has to be the control box.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 7, 2012)




----------



## tjnamtiw (Feb 7, 2012)

That pretty well says it all.  You have power to the control box but the control box says 'I'm dead'.    Don't throw the old one away.  I have a sneaky suspicion that someone will offer you postage to their house.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 9, 2012)

After checking everything multiple times I got a price of $245 for a new control box from my "local" Quadrafire dealer. 

Rather than waste precious time (minimum of an hour) and gas driving I just had him order the box. 

I know I'm taking a chance by not trying to test my control box in his stove, but I want my stove working again ASAP. 

I see no reason why something else might be the problem. 

I'll update this thread when I've got new control box plugged in and hope to post picture of working Castile insert. 


Thanks to all for the help. I do enjoy trouble-shooting my own stuff. I learn a lot in the process. 

Before this issue I had no idea what a snap-disk was.


----------



## mralias (Feb 9, 2012)

grendel336, Not that it has anything to do with your problem but why is there rust colored residue under the back side of your stove?  You get water in there? Is that water making its way into your stove? Just a thought.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 9, 2012)

About 5 years ago I had an issue with my chimney. Water was dripping down onto my pellet stove every time it rained for about a month before I discovered I had a problem. 

That slight rusting was due to that and has not changed in the years since after I got my chimney repaired.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Feb 9, 2012)

grendel336 said:
			
		

> After checking everything multiple times I got a price of $245 for a new control box from my "local" Quadrafire dealer.
> 
> Rather than waste precious time (minimum of an hour) and gas driving I just had him order the box.
> 
> ...



That's a great price!


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 9, 2012)

tjnamtiw said:
			
		

> That's a great price!



Yep. When he told me that I changed my plans and had him order it right then and there. 

There were places on the internet selling them for a tick over $400. 

This way I help support the local dealer without feeling like I'm getting *****. 
plus, he sells Hammer Hot Ones, so keeping him in business is a huge benefit for me. 

I loves me some Hammer Hot Ones.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 25, 2012)

Update. Control box was on back order and just came in late this week. 

Installed and happy day I have lights in box. Exhaust fan comes on when unit is first plugged in. Blinking lights sequence through appropriately. 

Igniter turns on and glows. 


HOWEVER - the auger is not dropping pellets. 

In fact, even if I hand feed the first batch of pellets into burnpot to get things started, the auger never comes on the add more. 

I have gone through again and jumped all the snap discs to see if one is in need of replacing but nothing seems to get auger moving. 

Thoughts?   Is my auger motor dead too??????? 

What can I check next?


----------



## Defiant (Feb 25, 2012)

baffling


----------



## SmokeyTheBear (Feb 25, 2012)

As a test try jumping the vacuum switch, do not run this way except as a test.  Report back here as to what happens.

Note this doesn't mean that the vacuum switch is bad.


----------



## DexterDay (Feb 25, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

> As a test try jumping the vacuum switch, do not run this way except as a test.  Report back here as to what happens.
> 
> Note this doesn't mean that the vacuum switch is bad.



The hose that goes from the vac switch to stove may be plugged?? Remove hose from vac switch and blow into hose (blowing towards stove). If there is a clog of fines, it will be at the barb where the hose connects to the auger chute.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 25, 2012)

I just set the control box to "0" to run the diagnostic mode. (yes - I jumped snap disc #1 per instructions)

The fans work based on sequence, but again - the feed motor never cycled on. 

Is it possible the feed motor AND the control box went dead at exactly the same F'n time????

Or maybe when one of them died it's blew out the other?


----------



## SmokeyTheBear (Feb 25, 2012)

grendel336 said:
			
		

> I just set the control box to "0" to run the diagnostic mode. (yes - I jumped snap disc #1 per instructions)
> 
> The fans work based on sequence, but again - the feed motor never cycled on.
> 
> ...



My test has nothing to do with a snap disc it is that lovely vacuum switch.  If it doesn't close you no getty any pellets.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 25, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

> My test has nothing to do with a snap disc it is that lovely vacuum switch.  If it doesn't close you no getty any pellets.



Sorry - overlooked this in my growing frustration. A sign I should probably take a break from this.....at any rate. 

Where is vacuum switch and how do I bypass/over-ride it? 

Thanks for your help by the way.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 25, 2012)

DexterDay said:
			
		

> SmokeyTheBear said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



If hose is not clogged should I easily be able to blow through it like an open straw? Even if hopper, and probably auger, is full of pellets?


----------



## tjnamtiw (Feb 25, 2012)

Vacuum switch is the silver box on the back wall of the unit on the right side.  It has the hose running to it that Smokey talked about.  Unplug the two wires running to it and use your jumper between the wires.  Also, if you didn't know where it was then you must not have checked to see if the hose is plugged as someone earlier suggested.  Do that by all means.  Mine clogs up about once a season if I don't blow it out.  I usually do it with my monthly cleaning.  I use canned air, like you use on a computer keyboard.


----------



## SmokeyTheBear (Feb 25, 2012)

grendel336 said:
			
		

> DexterDay said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Yes.


----------



## Defiant (Feb 25, 2012)

Did you try unplugging auger motor and running direct 110 to it to see if it works?


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 25, 2012)

Thanks - I will look into this in a few hours. I have to take youngest child to a class. 

Thanks to everybody.


----------



## DexterDay (Feb 25, 2012)

Yes. You should be able to blow through it easily.

Make sure the stove is unplugged when you are installing these jumpers. (Or at least I would, no need to burn or blow anything else out). 

Jumping vacuum will narrow it down. If it turns and the stove wants to start. Its either a bad switch or a plugged hose at the barb on the chute. (The barb is open to the drop chute. Thats why pellet level should not affect the blowing through it, you will see when you find and follow hose from switch to stove).

Good luck.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 25, 2012)

So the only hose I see goes into the nipple in this picture right in front of the snap disc in the auger cover.






I blow into the tube when it's connected to that nipple. Correct?


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 25, 2012)

When you say jumping the vacuum are you talking about the snap disc on the auger tube next to that nipple, or the the connection at the other end of the tube on the back of the stove? 

Also, if I ran the stove in diagnostic mode why would the auger motor check still depend on that vacuum sequence?


----------



## Defiant (Feb 25, 2012)

The vacuum switch is located at the other end of tube, jump the wires.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 25, 2012)

Defiant said:
			
		

> The vacuum switch is located at the other end of tube, jump the wires.



Thanks. Trying that next.

Can I stick a small piece of wire into the nipple on the other end of tube, the part going into the auger, to "clean it out"?


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 25, 2012)

This is vacuum switch to be jumped?


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 25, 2012)

THAT'S IT!  

Jumped the part pictured above and turned on stove and auger worked. 

So replacing that should fix my stove! 

You guys are all awesome.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 25, 2012)

This is my other problem part apparently. 

Anybody know what it's called? 

I can't find it listed in the service manual...although I am a little excited to have potentially discovered the last problem with my stove. 
Thanks to all you wonderful people. 

I also hope my pictures might be a helpful guide for the next guy with Castile problems.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 25, 2012)

Am I to assume this: click me

replaces the big honkin' box I posted above?


----------



## DexterDay (Feb 25, 2012)

Did you just try blowing the hose out and reconnecting to the barb??

The hose may have just been clogged. If the hose isnt clear, or the barb is clogged (on auger.chute) then the switch wont get power.

If you didnt blow through the hose (towards stove,  Blowing on end that goes to switch and into stove), I would give that a shot. Reinstall the vac switch, re-connect the hose, make sure front door is closed and power it up (turn on stat).


----------



## DexterDay (Feb 25, 2012)

Very rare for a vacuum switch to go bad?? 

When was the last time you cleaned the hose? Or better yet, the entire vent system?

If the stove cant push air out easily, then its gonna have a hard time breathing and creating the needed vacuum inside the firebox, to trip the switch. 

Cant you run an ohm test on the switch?? Im no electritian, but if you connect the leads of a multi meter to the spades on the switch, then lightly suck in on the hose (trip switch and close circuit) there should be a notable difference in the meters reading?? No?? Maybe someone can better explain. But the switch may be good. The way the switch gets vacuum may be the problem (dirty stove, plugged vent, plugged vac switch hose, and/or barb on chute)??

My 2 pennies.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 25, 2012)

DexterDay said:
			
		

> Did you just try blowing the hose out and reconnecting to the barb??
> 
> The hose may have just been clogged. If the hose isnt clear, or the barb is clogged (on auger.chute) then the switch wont get power.
> 
> If you didnt blow through the hose (towards stove,  Blowing on end that goes to switch and into stove), I would give that a shot. Reinstall the vac switch, re-connect the hose, make sure front door is closed and power it up (turn on stat).



Yes. I blew. It wasn't clogged. 

The second I bypassed that metallic "vacuum box" and turned the stove on the auger kicked right into life. 

The vacuum replacement part is roughly $45 so it's ordered and hopefully will be in mid to late next week. 

Thanks to you all. 

I have a much more intimate knowledge of my pellet stove now. It even drew some blood from me today. Crappy sheet metal with it's sharp edges and hard to reach components.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 25, 2012)

So how much vacuum should be getting pulled through that hose? 

Should I be able to hear the vacuum if I unplug the hose where it enters auger housing? 

What If I gently sucked on that end of hose as a previous post suggested but I did it while stove was running and everything else was connected? 

I can't imagine there's much of a vacuum. Basically it's just the exhaust fan running that causes the suction correct? 

I'm just tickled to death I don't have a dead auger motor. 

As for the oddity of the vacuum switch being dead or not, I had a dead control board. Is it possible that the control board death triggered the vacuum switch death? 

At any rate, my old vacuum switch part has apparently been completely replaced with something different. If you look at my picture, and then the link I posted you'll see a vastly different part.

My guess is the old part isn't available for a reason. Perhaps because it was a crap part to begin with?


----------



## DexterDay (Feb 25, 2012)

No. The control board can have no effect on the vacuum switch.

Its not much vacuum thats needed at all. The vacuum switch is a mechanical switch. A diaphragm of sorts. For one to fail, is rare. I still think the hose shiukd be removed completely and the barb cleaned with a clothespin. Then reconnect everything and make sure the door is tight. If your auger was empty, you may need to hit reset a couple times to get pellets to feed to prime the auger.

Switch might be bad. But they are in no way related (board and vacuum). And factor in how the switch works (if it worked when your board went bad, it should still work).

 The stove isnt creating enough vacuum then. Possibly dirty, plugged termination cap, or a leaky door gasket (dollar bill test).

If you have the time. Id definitely look into it more. As a vac switch is hard to kill...


----------



## tjnamtiw (Feb 25, 2012)

grendel336 said:
			
		

> So how much vacuum should be getting pulled through that hose?
> 
> Should I be able to hear the vacuum if I unplug the hose where it enters auger housing?
> I seriously doubt it.
> ...


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 25, 2012)

I completely removed hose. Blew through it. Then I attached hose to nipple on auger housing and blew through it. I also used a piece of thin wire and poked that into nipple on auger housing and it slid right in with no friction at all. 

I replaced the door gasket with a new one before this season. 

What's the "barb" you're talking about and what's the clothes pin trick? 
Where's the barb? 

If I removed hose from the nipple on the auger housing and then turned stove on should I be able to hear a vacuum pull through that nipple? 
Or should I be able to feel it if I stick my finger over that opening? 

If I gently sucked on the hose with it connected to the vacuum switch when stove is first turned on that would be a perfect test for the vacuum switch right? 

Since bypassing the vacuum switch instantly turned on the auger it's somehow connected to that switch. 

A gently suck-job would confirm a bad switch I assume.


----------



## DexterDay (Feb 25, 2012)

grendel336 said:
			
		

> I completely removed hose. Blew through it. Then I attached hose to nipple on auger housing and blew through it. I also used a piece of thin wire and poked that into nipple on auger housing and it slid right in with no friction at all.
> 
> I replaced the door gasket with a new one before this season.
> 
> ...



The barb is the nipple.. So you got it.cleaned.

Yes. If the hose is long enough for you to suck on the hose, then that will confirm it. But.. You must provide a constant suction. 

You wont be able to feel or hear the vacuum.

Was the hopper emptied recently?  How are you confirming the auger is not spinning? If hopper was empty, the auger chute may be empty? May need a reset (let run a minute) then hit reset again, to fully prime the auger chute. Thats if the switch is getting vacuum. Just seems odd that it doesn't work now, but it did before. 
 (Hate to beat a dead horse, but is the stove, vent, and cap clean?)


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 25, 2012)

Auger has pellets, and hopper is not empty. 

When I jumper the vacuum switch the auger instantly turned and dropped pellets into fire pot. 

As for the nipple/barb - I even used a small nail that I was almost sure would be too big to fit in opening and it slid in unimpeded. 

Nail was about 1.25 inches long. 

And yes - after blowing through tube, and tube connected to nipple, and having poked a 3 inch long piece of wire into nipple as well as a small nail, and then reconnected everything I got no movement on auger when I turned the stove on the last time. 

It's very apparent on my stove when auger spins. Within seconds of tripping the thermostat there's audible auger noise as well as pellets dropping into fire pot. The beauty of a top feed system in this case. 

We're having a very windy day here and I've buttoned everything back up and pushed the stove back into fireplace opening to cut down on some drafts thanks to the gale force winds outside. 

If I get a chance tomorrow I'll pull it back out and try the "suck job" just to double check one last time on that vacuum switch. 

I feel fairly confident that the problem is the vacuum switch, but I'm willing to have another go at trouble shooting. It's about beer-thirty here so I think messing with electricity, vacuums and such is tomorrow's project.

Can't say thanks enough.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 25, 2012)

Yes - aside from pulling the auger housing off and cleaning that part of the stove (can that even be done?) I fully cleaned the stove prior to this burn season. 

That included pulling stove from fireplace, removing the vent that goes up chimney and cleaning that, as well as sweeping the exhaust blower opening and vacuuming inside the exhaust opening from the chimney side. 

The fire pot gets stiff wire brushed more than once a week and the heat exchange tubes as well as the rest of the interior of the burn area gets cleaned more than once a week depending on how often stove is used. 

As for use, we only burn stove at nights during the week, which is mainly from 6:00pm until 10:00pm. 

Weekends it might be used from mid-afternoon until 11:00pm. 

This season I've not yet burned half-a-ton even. Mild winter so far. 

I've never burned more than one 40 pound bag of pellets in one day this season. 

I was burning maybe a full bag every 2.5 to 3 days with the exception of over the X-mas holidays. Then it was a full bag every 1.5 days. 

At any rate - this stove worked flawlessly from 2006 until the end of January 2012. 

What else should I check for dirt, debris, and or a clog?


----------



## DexterDay (Feb 25, 2012)

grendel336 said:
			
		

> I feel fairly confident that the problem is the vacuum switch.



It is possible its bad. Just seemed highly unlikely as they are not related and its a mechanical switch. But if its toast, its toast... That new switch is the one in my Quad. Cheap enough to not hurt to much. 




			
				grendel336 said:
			
		

> It's about beer-thirty here so I think messing with electricity, vacuums and such is tomorrow's project..



Beer thirty sounds about right... Cheers.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Feb 25, 2012)

grendel336 said:
			
		

> If I gently sucked on the hose with it connected to the vacuum switch when stove is first turned on that would be a perfect test for the vacuum switch right?
> 
> Didn't I just answer this???
> 
> ...


----------



## tjnamtiw (Feb 25, 2012)

You don't have to pull the stove out at all to get at the vacuum switch and the hose.  Just take off the right side cast piece by unscrewing the two phillips head screws at the top of the piece that hold a sheet metal bracket in place.  Do the gentle 'suck trick' to rule out the vacuum switch or prove it's bad.  If you have an ohm meter (multi meter), you can put the leads on the two terminals while you suck and you should see the resistance go to zero.  If not, the switch is toast.


----------



## Defiant (Feb 25, 2012)

My god grendel, you are getting red carpet treatment. This is a great site, I still agree with DD vacuum switches rarely fail.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 25, 2012)

I tip my glass to you all. 

And yes I do have to pull stove out. It's a fireplace insert. 

Sucking will wait until tomorrow. I have more pressing things to tend to now. See picture above.  :coolsmile:


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 25, 2012)

tjnamtiw said:
			
		

> grendel336 said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I believe you were answering it while I was posting a response to somebody else.

Thanks. The sucking question has been answered.


----------



## Defiant (Feb 25, 2012)

Cheers


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 25, 2012)

tjnamtiw said:
			
		

> You don't have to pull the stove out at all to get at the vacuum switch and the hose.  Just take off the right side cast piece by unscrewing the two phillips head screws at the top of the piece that hold a sheet metal bracket in place.  Do the gentle 'suck trick' to rule out the vacuum switch or prove it's bad.  If you have an ohm meter (multi meter), you can put the leads on the two terminals while you suck and you should see the resistance go to zero.  If not, the switch is toast.



Oh, I see what you mean...although not sure the hose is long enough to do that, but I'll try that before pulling stove out. 

I've pulled that panel off so much in the last 2 weeks,  I know it very well.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Feb 26, 2012)

grendel336 said:
			
		

> tjnamtiw said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I'd get a length of tubing from somewhere else of the same diameter.  It doesn't need to be vacuum hose because we're talking minor, minor vacuum.  Even an auto store would have some for things like windshield washer hose.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Feb 26, 2012)

grendel336 said:
			
		

> I tip my glass to you all.
> 
> And yes I do have to pull stove out. It's a fireplace insert.
> 
> Sucking will wait until tomorrow. I have more pressing things to tend to now. See picture above.  :coolsmile:



I could never do that to Guinness  Up in Newcastle, England they used to mix Strongbow hard cider with it.  Many a headache followed me home!


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 26, 2012)

SUCK TEST worked. 

With the house quiet I could hear the mechanism click when I gently pulled a vacuum on the tube. 

So I got my compressor from garage and disconnected tube from vacuum switch and connected tube to nipple/barb up on auger housing. 

I blasted compressed air through that tube multiple times and for longer duration than I could ever do by mouth. 

Reconnected everything and turned stove on. 

Same issue. No auger. 

Then I thought to cover the air-wash opening along the top of the glass door. 

BINGO. 

I got suction enough to trip the switch and start the auger. 

As long as I covered that airwash edge along top of door the stove worked fine.

So, when I replaced my gasket months ago I was getting sufficient vacuum. Maybe now that the gasket has set and been through many burn cycles I have lost vacuum? 

I have the tadpole gasket along 3 complete sides of the rectangle on the door. Two short sides and one long. The top is open to keep the glass somewhat clean I assume. 

Should there be more gasketing across the top? 

Can somebody with a Castile perhaps post a picture of their tadpole gasket? 

Much appreciated. Now to call and see if I can cancel the order for the new vacuum switch.


----------



## DexterDay (Feb 26, 2012)

Vacuum switch is good! Yeah......

As to loss of vacuum. Thats what I figured. (Dirty stove, Bad gasket, Etc). It should be missing the gasket on one side. 

Some people have purposely plugged there airwash to encourage more air through the burn pot for a hotter burn. Although I wouldn't highly recommend doing so. A few have had good results. A simple search under airwash should bring some recent results.

Congratulations. Your back in business. Now to find why the loss in vacuum. You said you replaced the door gasket?? But did you check it afterwards? (Dollar bill test) Or a dirty Termination cap will slow draft and cause vacuum issues? Termination caps can.clog quite easily. Normally needs cleaned long before the vent does.

Edit: Either way. Im glad you dove deeper into it. You now will have a back-up, but these switches rarely go bad. Glad you got some heat Nice..


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 26, 2012)

Quick fix that makes stove work, see tin foil "gasket" across top of door:







Picture taken right at start-up.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 26, 2012)

DexterDay said:
			
		

> Vacuum switch is good! Yeah......
> 
> As to loss of vacuum. Thats what I figured. (Dirty stove, Bad gasket, Etc). It should be missing the gasket on one side.
> 
> ...



Termination cap? What? Where? 

(thanks again - can't say it enough)


----------



## DexterDay (Feb 26, 2012)

grendel336 said:
			
		

> DexterDay said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Termination cap is at the very end of your vent and can clog with ash very easily.
You have an insert (a pretty enamel one too ;-P ) so your cap is on your roof. May be worth looking up there and taking a peek at it. A direct vent or horizontal vent can be worse, but they all get caked with ash. Also, your liner may be filling up at the bottom, where your stove connects to it. Have you ever looked into the "Leafblower Trick".  Works wonders for cleaning the vent and stove. 

Here is a great example of a vent being "sucked" out on an insert.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WDGm9QuaUI&feature=youtube_gdata_player


----------



## smoke show (Feb 26, 2012)

DexterDay said:
			
		

> Here is a great example of a vent being "sucked" out on an insert.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WDGm9QuaUI&feature=youtube_gdata_player



Its a freestander.

Talk about whoring out my vid.  ;-)


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 26, 2012)

It's a fireplace insert model. 

Less than half a ton ago I removed pipe that goes up through my fireplace flue and into my chimney. 

I took it outside and used a rubber mallet to bang out all the ash inside it. 

The pipe is only about 8 feet long and then the rest of my fireplace chimney is the vent. I highly doubt it's clogged. 

Once spring is here I plan to completely remove stove from house and do a total tear down and cleaning of everything. After the issues I've had this season I will
make sure a "dirty" or clogged anything will not be an issue. 

That will also give me a chance to inspect the chimney too. 

At any rate.....the vacuum problem would hardly be an issue with the exhaust side would it? 
It's an intake issue. 

Once I seal off the door better everything works perfectly.


----------



## DexterDay (Feb 26, 2012)

If your exhaust is plugged? Then it restricts the amount the sove can take in.

But if you vent is as you say it is, I too doubt its the vent. Maybe the gap in the airwash is to much??

As you said. Its working.... Congratulations.


----------



## SmokeyTheBear (Feb 26, 2012)

No the "vacuum" issue can be any where in the combustion air system.

It can even be a crudded up combustion blower.

All that has been determined is that your vacuum switch wasn't seeing the correct air pressure difference for it to close.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 26, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

> No the "vacuum" issue can be any where in the combustion air system.
> 
> It can even be a crudded up combustion blower.
> 
> All that has been determined is that your vacuum switch wasn't seeing the correct air pressure difference for it to close.



Right, but by simply stuffing a piece of tinfoil between the door and front face of the stove has brought the stove back to life. 

It's been working splendidly now for about an hour. 

My plan is to burn out all the pellets in the hopper and allow the auger to become free from pellets. 

After that, and once stove has returned to room temperature, I'll redo the compressor trick to the nipple on the auger housing and do a major cleaning of everything I can get to without removing stove from fireplace. 

Then I'll blow that auger vent again. 

Then look into using some stove gasket along top part of door to help with vacuum. 

Hopefully that'll get me though until spring when I can tear the beotch down in my garage and inspect the whole kit-n-kaboodle.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 26, 2012)

Inside:


----------



## tjnamtiw (Feb 26, 2012)

that's as clean as it gets on our stove.  On the right hand side back in that hole is your combustion blower.  With our stove, the exhaust piping goes straight up from there and out the chimney.  There's plenty of chance for ash to fall right back down into the vanes of the blower.  I put a small piece of clear tubing on the end of my vac cleaner and stick it into that space.  You'd be surprised how much ash comes out.  Does the blower spin freely?  Can you reach in there and spin the vanes and they keep going?

My exhaust goes all the way up and out the top of the chimney.


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 26, 2012)

Yep. My exhaust fan spins real free. 

Before the winter this year I removed exhaust pipe and cleaned it. I also did vacuum down in that portion of the exhaust blower before putting everything back together. 

I have not burned much this year due to mild winter so I'm pretty sure that the exhaust blower and such isn't my issue. 

I'm guessing my door gasket isn't sealing tight enough which prevents the vacuum switch from getting enough suction.


----------



## DexterDay (Feb 26, 2012)

Did you do the dollar bill test?  Open the door, place a bill half in and half out, close door completely, then see if the bill slips out?Slips firmly? Or stays an bill would rip if you pulled on it? I have seen instances where a brand new gasket wouldn't seal properly and had to be redone (bunched in better) and others that needed the door latch adjusted (or hinges, whichever side was adjustable or both on my Quad).

As for your exhaust venting? You say you have 8 ft going up the chimney and the rest is opened? If the pellet vent doesnt reach the top, I would suspect that you have some type of block-off plate and the bottom of the chimney (where the vent first enters it). Again, just wondering? As most typical inserts have a full length liner. Although some places allow for the liner to not extend the length. 

Glad its working. Cheers......


----------



## grendel336 (Feb 26, 2012)

As the stove is currently burning off the rest of the pellets in the hopper I won't be doing dollar bill test today. 

I was told buy the people I bought the stove from, a retail store, that there was no need to run a pipe all the way up chimney. 

A length just long enough to get past the fireplace flue was sufficient. Then pack the rest of the flue opening with insulation to prevent downdrafts and you're good to go. 

That's been my set-up for 6 years now. 

Never an issue. 

I probably have a good 25 feet of chimney above the fireplace flue. Maybe 30 feet.


----------



## tjnamtiw (Feb 27, 2012)

grendel336 said:
			
		

> As the stove is currently burning off the rest of the pellets in the hopper I won't be doing dollar bill test today.
> 
> I was told buy the people I bought the stove from, a retail store, that there was no need to run a pipe all the way up chimney.
> 
> ...



I hope you have a carbon monoxide monitor in the room since gases can still get past the insulation.  This will especially happen when there is an inversion in barometric pressure and air is forced back down the chimney or if there's a good wind.


----------



## DexterDay (Feb 27, 2012)

X2 on what tjnamtiw said A block off plate is needed if the vent does not go all the way to the top..

As insulation is permeable and can "Breathe". Thus letting CO back into the home.(Not Good). The insulation is fine, if your liner extends to the top of the flue and you have a block off plate up top. Then the insulation is just to keep your insert from losing heat up the empty chimney and keeping it within itself.

I would look into either installing a proper block-off or running to the top (still needing a block off plate up top).

Make sure you have a good CO detector. I have several throughout the house and several Smoke/Fire alarms. Can never be to safe and precautious.


----------



## grendel336 (Mar 27, 2012)

Just another follow up. After a week or more of 70 degree temps and windows open the weather turned cold again. I got the new vacuum switch hooked up and turned on stove without any of the tin foil blockage along the air wash slot on top of my door. The stove started right up and operated all evening with no issues at all. So I do believe my old vacuum switch was no longer performing up to snuff. Fingers crossed that any and all of my issues are now behind me and carefree burning will be my future for some time to come.


----------



## doug crann (Nov 28, 2013)

Talk about putting you thru hell....glad to read you got it fixed....


----------



## Don2222 (Nov 28, 2013)

How did you check the fuse? It may look good but the fuse wire may be broken in one of the end caps. Maybe you should try replacing the fuse first?


----------



## RockyMtnHigh (Nov 29, 2013)

grendel336 said:


> This is my other problem part apparently.
> 
> Anybody know what it's called?
> 
> ...



Those vacuum switches had a habit of going bad by the nature of the way they are constructed. I've actually been able to fix a few of them by sealing the two outer halves around the edges with high temp silicone with success saving the customer money over buying a new vac switch. I would goo the parts where the two halves mate and keep it for later use as I doubt any part of the internal mechanism actually went bad.


----------



## peirhead (Nov 29, 2013)

I thought mine had gone bad, but it had just filled up with pellet dust.....I turned it so the nipple was pointing down and just kept tapping it till no more dust came out....took a while, but now works like new.

By the way in the picture of the inside of the castile with the interior plates removed seems to be missing the gasketing materiel on the outside of where the left and right plates go in....at least it is there on my Castile...perhaps it has come off and that would certainly contribute to lack of vacuum issues.


----------

