# best way to sharpen a chain saw?



## par0thead151 (Sep 28, 2010)

there are numerous tools out there to sharpen a saw blade, im wondering which is best for the blade, and which does the best job ad sharpening?
i know that it can be done with a hand file, dremmel, tools from the store, to hiring the local hardware store to do it.
i would like to do it myself. 
input on what works best would be greatly appreciated
thanks


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## mtcates (Sep 28, 2010)

What works best for me is just use a good ole sharp file with the saw clamped in a bench vise by the bar. You can get two hands on the file like this.  Works the best for me.  Good lighting is a must.  The most common mistake I see with others sharpening by hand is the lack of consistency from tooth to tooth.


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## Beowulf (Sep 28, 2010)

Well, I bet you get a few opinions on this topic!

I personally have used all of the methods you mention.  Here are my thoughts, for what they are worth:

1.  Hand filing.  Definitely an art to it.  Helps to hold the bar in a vise, maybe use a guide at first to keep the angle consistent.  Use the same number of strokes per link.  Pros:  Cheap, reasonably fast, can be done in the field, removes least amount of metal for long chain life.  Cons:  some skill required, possible to get the angles off and have the chain cut uneven until rectified.

2.  Hardware store:  Did this a few times.  Hit and miss with the operator's ability to use the machine.  About $8.00 per chain where I live.  Pros:  cuts like a new chain (for a while.)  Cons:  somewhat expensive, removes a lot of metal, especially with a low skilled operator, have to go to town.

3.  Dremel tool:  Keep these things around, work pretty good.  Pros: a little faster than hand filing, if the chain is pretty dull.  Cons:  need a guide for best consistency with angles; tips are not that cheap, don't last all that long.  You can heat up a tooth and soften the edge easily.

4.  HF chainsaw sharpener:  Kind of like this, use one frequently.  I bought enough chains to just swap in the field when one dulls up to where a few file strokes won't bring it back to "nice."  Sharpen them off the saw on the HF sharpener at my leisure;  Pros: fast, consistent, Cons:  can still take off too much metal or heat a tooth up if you are not careful.

Probably learning to file well, with the right size file at the correct angle is a real good place to start.  Once you get that down, "automating it" with a sharpener might make sense.  They are regularly on sale for $29.99 or so.  Or maybe the file will be just fine.  That's all I used for years.


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## soupy1957 (Sep 28, 2010)

When I was using my chainsaw on a regular basis, I kept one chain sharpened and ready on the workbench, and the other on the saw. In fact, that chain saw is gone now, and the 2nd chain is still hanging there waiting (lol).

I would set aside a Saturday early morning, and sit in the garage with a small, round (about Ø.1) semi-fine file, and just patiently go around the chain, sharpening each tooth. (I'd put a piece of string around where I started, so I wouldn't forget.

The stress of life can easily interfere with everything we do, and I made it a point to say to myself "as long as it takes me, is as long as it takes me!" and I TOOK MY TIME.

Being careful about the angle on each tooth is important; as is wiping off the chain when done, and putting a light oil on it to protect it.

-Soupy1957


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## John_M (Sep 28, 2010)

Par0, Good guidance here. Do  a search for "chain sharpening" above and you will be directed to many excellent threads about sharpening saw chain. This subject has been discussed ad infinitum in the past. 
You will see recommendations and favorite tips from those who sharpen exclusively by hand and others who use nothing but machines and others who use both methods and others who bring their chains to a favorite chain saw service center. 
You can then "pick your poison" from the multitude of opinions.
John_M


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## BigV (Sep 28, 2010)

I purchased this electric sharpener a year ago from Harbor Freight and it works great. Easy to set-up and use and the results are almost like using a brand new blade. It’s on sale right now for $39.00


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## ManiacPD (Sep 28, 2010)

It's personal preference.  I prefer hand filing.  It took me a few times to figure it out but it isn't rocket science.  The beauty of learning to hand file is it's completely portable and you can sharpen anywhere you are at any time.  Husky makes a file gauge that I prefer but there are others out there.  To each their own.

If you're sharpening on a bench in your garage or basement a grinder is a great tool, but like everything, you can do damage with one if you're too aggressive.


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## FireWalker (Sep 28, 2010)

If you have a workbench and a vice, get yourself a file (the right size for your chain) and learn how to do it. It's not hard. If you do a ton of sawing, buy 6 chains and go to a local saw shop when you have 3 dull ones and have him/her sharpen them.


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## BigV (Sep 28, 2010)

FireWalker said:
			
		

> If you do a ton of sawing, buy 6 chains and go to a local saw shop when you have 3 dull ones and have him/her sharpen them.



At $7.00 a chain to have them sharpened here in NE Ohio, I would rather do them myself. In addition, I have had chains ground down over 1/16” by a reputable saw shop a few years back. Chains don’t last long when sharpened that way. 

We have a local dealer that puts on a BOGO sale on their saw blades every Valentines Day. I stock up when there on sale.


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## Ithaca (Sep 28, 2010)

I like the portability of a hand file and guide.  I have to stop and sharpen at least once when out gathering a truckload of wood.  Nothing like a wet or muddy log to dull things, and being able to stop and sharpen keeps the cutting going fast.


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## smokinj (Sep 28, 2010)

Just depends on your demand for sharp chains....


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## oldspark (Sep 28, 2010)

Does anyone besides Stihl make a bench mount hand filing device so it is easy to do them off the chainsaw, doing them in a vise seams like it would be time consuming.


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## Gator eye (Sep 28, 2010)

At the beginning of the day put the whole saw in the vise by the bar, hit it with a round file and I'm good for the day.

I usually touch it up real quick out in the field everytime I fill the gas tank, mostly for the extra break time than the chain being dull.


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## Got Wood (Sep 28, 2010)

BigV said:
			
		

> I purchased this electric sharpener a year ago from Harbor Freight and it works great. Easy to set-up and use and the results are almost like using a brand new blade. It’s on sale right now for $39.00



This looks interesting to me. I have never gotten the hang of hand sharpening. Has anyone else used this? Opinions?


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## Highbeam (Sep 28, 2010)

BigV said:
			
		

> I purchased this electric sharpener a year ago from Harbor Freight and it works great. Easy to set-up and use and the results are almost like using a brand new blade. It’s on sale right now for $39.00



I too use this grinder and it is a very good deal. All you have to do is sharpen 4 chains and it has paid for itself. I have sharpened at least twenty chains with it and the dang thing keeps making me money! It only takes a meager amount of skill to set up and use properly to get a like new chain every time that cuts straight and fast. 

I never bothered learning to use a hand file. I also never bothered using a hand powered drill. I mix my cookie dough with a kitchenaid mixer too. Life is too short to spend time using manual tools. I will admit that I have dulled a chain in the field early in the day and after swapping to my second sharp chain I worried that if I dull another chain that I'm done for the day. It would have been nice to be able to hand file it in the woods, I decided, that I would instead buy more chains to have more backups.  

Just this Sunday I spent a few minutes in the garage with a cold beverage and sharpened the OEM 20" Stihl safety chain. I've been cutting with it plus a second Stihl skip chain for two full seasons and sharpened each at least 10 times. Each chain has more than 50% of each tooth left so don't buy into the story that grinders take too much tooth and waste chain life.


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## oldspark (Sep 28, 2010)

Highbeam, any problems with flexing of that unit, some people have complained about that very issue.


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## TreePointer (Sep 28, 2010)

My preference:  Place saw in heavy bench vise and hand file with a file guide.


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## golfandwoodnut (Sep 28, 2010)

I have one of these units too.  It is a little odd the first time you do a chain, but then you get the hang of it.  I am not sure what you mean by flexing.  There is no real give to it. I am sure pro units are more exact.  They try to tell you to turn it off and on with each tooth, but I do not think anyone does that.  I still find hand sharpening faster because you do not have to take the chain on and off.  So I hand sharpen until the blade does not seem up to par then sharpen on the HF.  I keep several chains.  I have found you can buy new ones for $13 on EBAY and they are brand name.  So it is hard for me to pay $8 to get one sharpened.


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## Cascade Failure (Sep 28, 2010)

I have the Chicago Electric sharpener pictured and I am not real happy with it. Too much play in the manner it holds the tooth in relation to the grinding disk. I went back to the old hand file and vise and only use the CE when I have done some serious damage to the teeth where I need to remove more metal a bit quicker, such as hitting a rock.


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## OhioBurner© (Sep 28, 2010)

Got Wood said:
			
		

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I just bought one of these today infact. I should have came here for some reviews first but I didnt think about it. Dang I got to remember that everything has been talked about on here before! 

I hope this unit works ok, from the sounds of it it should. I bought the Stihl sharpening files, and have been running those files on the saw after say 2 hrs of continuous use. Now both my chains have been sharpened probably 5 times each, and just dont seem to cut like new after filed anymore. So my plan is to sharpen both with the HF electric grinder and then touch em up in the field as needed with file. 

Is there anything about the HF grinder I should be aware of before I use it the first time? FWIW I'm using the RMC3 Stihl chains - yeah I'd like to step up to the more aggressive ones but thats just what came with the saw.


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## TMonter (Sep 28, 2010)

I've been using an Oregon filing guide for 6+ years now and it works great. People are are practiced can hand file faster but I know my angles are 100% right with this:

http://www.amazon.com/Oregon-23736A-Professional-Bar-Mount-Filing/dp/B000B8JCRI

The only time I use the shop to sharpen a chain now is if I really nick a chain on a rock or piece of metal.


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## CTYank (Sep 28, 2010)

What I've found to work best for 30+ yrs now, for guided filing of chains on 7 of my saws & numerous others, is a Granberg G-106B.
Clamps on bar and more lightly clamps the chain. Indexed to back side of cutter- simple stop that swivels up on advancing chain.
You insert file (5/32" or 7/32" typ) and tighten clamps.
You set angles- about vertical axis (typ 30 deg) and about horizontal axis (typ 0 deg). You set height so nominal 1/5 of file is above cutter top. File cutter until sharp, then repeat same # of strokes for the rest of the cutters on that side.
Set angle about vertical for opposite side cutters, and file them.
You can insert a small flat file to set depth gauges every X times you sharpen the cutters.

Enables minimum removal of metal from cutters, easily carried on the job, consistent results. $30 @Amazon. What's not to like?


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## firefighterjake (Sep 29, 2010)

CTYank said:
			
		

> What I've found to work best for 30+ yrs now, for guided filing of chains on 7 of my saws & numerous others, is a Granberg G-106B.
> Clamps on bar and more lightly clamps the chain. Indexed to back side of cutter- simple stop that swivels up on advancing chain.
> You insert file (5/32" or 7/32" typ) and tighten clamps.
> You set angles- about vertical axis (typ 30 deg) and about horizontal axis (typ 0 deg). You set height so nominal 1/5 of file is above cutter top. File cutter until sharp, then repeat same # of strokes for the rest of the cutters on that side.
> ...



I can't seem to get my Granberg to work really well . . . I can cut one side with no issues and it does a nice job (although it is a bit awkward and takes more time to set up than hand filing).


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## Highbeam (Sep 29, 2010)

Once you adjust the chain clamping mechanism on the HF sharpener it clamps the chain securely. That is, the 3/8" stihl chain, not sure what happens with smaller sizes. 

All of these electric sharpeners ahve a long arm and a pivot. That pivot and long arm will always allow some play or flex. I actually use that to my advantage if I think a particular tooth needs a touch more than the "no-flex" setting. Flex sounds like a bad thing but it is unavoidable and a benefit so long as it is not excessive. I do not find the flex to be as bad as I thought it would be based on reading reviews. Those negative reviews are almost always from someone that has purchased a different grinder for an obscene amoutn of money. 

It's like the guys with one ton trucks saying that a half ton can't do any work. 

I worry that going back and forth between hand filing and a grinder can cause trouble. The grinder leaves a certain profile to the tooth that isn't perfectly round. If you hit that ground tooth with a round file then you will be reshaping the profile more than sharpening. All that work will be undone the next time you grind. Your chains will last longer and your sharpening effort will be reduced if you stick with one or the other I would think.


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## oldspark (Sep 29, 2010)

I could not find the older post about the flexing, I cant get my chains as sharp as I use to but could never get them as sharp as the shop, maybe I should try the HF unit as I might be in their store in a little over a week.


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## Beowulf (Sep 29, 2010)

I like the HF unit pretty well.  A "light touch" works best.  Once things are set, just touch the tooth for about 1 second.  Repeat a couple of times if the tooth has obvious damage.  The chains I use seem to cut about as good as they ever did coming back from the hardware store service that I used a few times for sharpening.  I think there have been some reviews on the HF or CE unit, as well as the more expensive ones.  It is not a high quality tool, but it seems to work pretty well for $29.


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## CTYank (Sep 29, 2010)

firefighterjake said:
			
		

> CTYank said:
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Wish I could see what you're doing, before commenting. Of course, I assume you're filing each side in the same direction- exiting at the cutting edge. Sometimes, I've noticed that a small vertical adjustment is rqd on the second side cutters. Maybe, if you pretend that each side is a new job- set up each from scratch- maybe a 60-sec job each. Happy filing.


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## fidiro (Sep 29, 2010)

I bought this HB grinder about 2 years ago for $29.  I have sharpened my 3/8lp chains on it, .325's and .375's    
I personaly am not a professional at sharpening but I have to say that the 1/8" grinding wheel it comes with works best on the 3/8lp it's ok on the 325's and I guess it will sharpen the .375 but not to my liking.  It would work best on the bigger chains with a 3/16" wheel and an actual chain tilt in addition to the angle built into the grinder.  I have placed a 1/4" piece of wood on the angle to lift up on side and create a tilt to the chain but again I think a 3/16" wheel would probably work better.  This thing is all plastic so it does give some and flex but it was 29 bucks.  Just have to be gentle with it to get a good sharp chain.

I use the .375's the most and have 8 or 9 20" and 3 25" green link stihl chains.  Although I have been using the 1/8" wheel I really should look into finding a wider grinding wheel to experiment as I depend mostly on the ms390.  I always take 3 or 4 extra sharpened 20" chains with me when cutting just in case one didn't get sharp enough.


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## mtarbert (Sep 30, 2010)

I think you guys just may be over-thinking the entire precess and concept of sharpening. I find that if I hit each tooth 4-5 licks with a file for every tank of gas the saw will never get really dull. This excludes nails or rock hits.  Just my opinion.


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## ramonbow (Sep 30, 2010)

I prefer to hand sharpen for several reasons.  I know how, I am able, it costs me nothing but time, I have had some bad experiences with having them sharpened by others, it is convenient, i know I am taking the minimum amount of metal off to get the chain sharp.  

Two things to note about sharpening:  make sure you have new files - they do wear out over time and remember to dress your bar and file your rakers occassionally as well.


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## Flatbedford (Sep 30, 2010)

I have had good results filing by hand. If I do a quickie every 2 or 3 tankfulls, it is quick and easy to restore the chain to nearly new condition as long as there is no major damage on y wear to the cutters. I use the tooth itself as a guide. After really messing up a chain last winter I bought one of these for less than $20.
http://www.mowermagic.co.uk/acatalog/stihl-File-Sharpening-Kit.jpg
With it I was able to get even the chain that I could not fix free hand as sharp as new. I can easily carry a hand file or the guide kit anywhere for quick and easy sharpening on the saw.
I also use Stihl chains and find that I sharpen less often than I did with Oregon chain.


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## WARDNEAL (Oct 1, 2010)

I use the dremmel and a power inverter so I can sharpen in the field if needed. I also have the files and use them in my cordless drill. 

Both are fast and easy. 

Both are not exact but you will get a chain that will cut well and with practice it will be like a new chain everytime.

If you want the least metal removed and sharpest use the hand files and practice.

For me the results of the dremmel are the best.

Hope you find what works best for you.


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## northwinds (Oct 1, 2010)

Gator eye said:
			
		

> At the beginning of the day put the whole saw in the vise by the bar, hit it with a round file and I'm good for the day.
> 
> I usually touch it up real quick out in the field everytime I fill the gas tank, mostly for the extra break time than the chain being dull.



That's been the trick for me.  I was never happy with my hand filing until I started using the vice.  The difference was like night and day.


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## Jamess67 (Oct 1, 2010)

ordered the HF grinder. Hope you all were right...lol


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## smokinj (Oct 1, 2010)

Jamess67 said:
			
		

> ordered the HF grinder. Hope you all were right...lol




You can find some good use one (511a and ax and a few other brand name) on ebay, but depends on what demand you have for the machine.


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## OhioBurner© (Oct 4, 2010)

Highbeam said:
			
		

> I worry that going back and forth between hand filing and a grinder can cause trouble. The grinder leaves a certain profile to the tooth that isn't perfectly round. If you hit that ground tooth with a round file then you will be reshaping the profile more than sharpening. All that work will be undone the next time you grind. Your chains will last longer and your sharpening effort will be reduced if you stick with one or the other I would think.



You have a good point. I was just going by what my dad does and my BIL too. They say to hand file every couple/few hours and after 4-5 hand filings to take it in. Thats basically going back and forth between a flat grinder cut and a round file correct? I've never taken a chain in yet so dont know but assume they are using a flat grinder like what the HF one would do.

Thing is, my HF sharpener is still in box and I just got a coupon for it $10 less (I paid $40 coupon is $30), so I was thinking about taking it back. But if I do that I could just return it al together and buy something like the granburg mentioned above... that way I'd stick to one method. Or I could just use the HF and instead of hand filing intra-day I could just swap chains. Would 2 chains last a day of sawing? I might get a third - want to get something a bit more aggressive than the RMC3.


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## kenskip1 (Oct 4, 2010)

I also had the Harbor Freight grinder. I had relatively good results with it but I needed something more substantial and bought this! Ken


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## Highbeam (Oct 4, 2010)

pile o’ wood said:
			
		

> Highbeam said:
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The HF grinder wheel, like most wheels, is a flat disc but the edge of the disc has a somewhat round shape that isn't perfectly round but isn't like using a square bastard file either. 

I have only two chains for the stihl and just one is easily enough to fill my truck with a cord of firewood. I keep a second sharp chain in the tool kit for that unfortunate dulling from hitting the dirt, muddy wood, or a buried rock. Yes, have more than one chain. Two is good, three is better. Just swap them out in the field, I used my tailgate yesterday and took the opportunity to flip the bar and clean the oiling system. There is no reason that you can't touch up a slightly dull chain with a grinder, they only take off lots of metal if you want to. 

Nice grinder Ken. I would of course rather have a really nice stout quality grinder just like I would rather eat nice steak every day but for many folks, the HF grinder is perfectly adequate at a cheaper price. As I understand it, there is a nice Oregon? brand unit for only like triple the cost of the HF that is the next step up. Then there are the several hundred dollar units for the pros.


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## fidiro (Oct 4, 2010)

Jamess67 said:
			
		

> ordered the HF grinder. Hope you all were right...lol



This grinder will come with the 1/8" wheel.  If you want to sharpen a .325 or bigger chain you should look into changing it to the 3/16" wheel.  The 1/8 does a decent job on 3/8lp chains but I don't like what it does to the 3/8 .050 chains.  I have sharpened a few of a family members'  .325's .063 and although it will do the job on them the grinder should really use the 3/16 wheel.


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## fidiro (Oct 4, 2010)

Highbeam said:
			
		

> pile o’ wood said:
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## fidiro (Oct 4, 2010)

pelletnubi said:
			
		

> Highbeam said:
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## fidiro (Oct 4, 2010)

I messed up the quotes above


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## Highbeam (Oct 4, 2010)

I'm using the OEM pink 1/8" (I guess) wheel on the HF grinder to sharpen 3.8 0.50 Stihl chain. Seems to work great. What is the benefit with going to the 3/16" wheel? Are wheels expensive?


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## fidiro (Oct 4, 2010)

Highbeam said:
			
		

> I'm using the OEM pink 1/8" (I guess) wheel on the HF grinder to sharpen 3.8 0.50 Stihl chain. Seems to work great. What is the benefit with going to the 3/16" wheel? Are wheels expensive?



It will create more cutting area on the lower part of tooth.  I guess I could compare the 1/8" wheel to using a 1/8" hand file or just slighty larger, it just doesn't do the job to my liking on the 3/8 .050 chains as it only leaves a small amount of sharp edge on lower part of tooth.  I have been using it like that for the past year but will be changing the wheel.  Dressing the wheel to round it will also help.  I still feel that having 4-5 sharp chains on hand, or in my case 9-10, is better to just change on site than having to go through 72 teeth hand filing.  I have hand filed and although I had mastered it, I still like to just throw a sharp chain on and keep cutting.  I'll then sharpen 4-5 chains in one sitting.

If the grinder also had a tilt for the chain with the 3/16 wheel it will sharpen it like a hand file, or close to it.   But, again it was only $29.  I place a small thin flat piece of wood to lift one side of chain guide to create a tilt.

Place a chain on this grinder that was sharpened with a hand file, or new chain would be better but DON'T run grinder or scrape new teeth with wheel, and try to angle and tilt the grinder wheel to match the original tooth angle and tilt.  You will see that 1/8 wheel will not sharpen the same area of tooth and 3/16 will get real close to the original angle and tilt.  Tilt will be off some unless you place something flat like I do.


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## Highbeam (Oct 4, 2010)

So the 3/16" wheel more closely mimics the factory grind. I plan to grind 3/8 or even bigger chain forever so I may just buy one of the 3/16" wheels, keep the 1/8" wheel for friends with poulans.

Oh, one drawback to just swapping chains in the field is that the saw gets hot. The chain, bar, and even the bar nuts can be too hot to handle. Especially if you are trying to get by with a dull chain for awhile before finally giving in and putting a fresh one on.


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## charly (Oct 6, 2010)

Hand file, once you spend some time , you'll get an understanding of what needs to be done. Go to Harbor Freight and pick up a dial indicator, they're cheap there. Put one paint dot on top of a cutter, start measuring the length of the cutters as you go around and keeping bringing the dial caliper dial back to the zero mark as you keep finding a smaller cutter. Once around to the paint dot, you've now found the shortest cutter. Now rotate the dial face until you reading .005 above zero,if the cutters aren't bad.  If the cutters are in rough shape I'll remove  about .010. Now file each cutter until your back to reading zero on each one. That my friend gives you a nice cutting chain. I only do this about half way thru the cutters life. Other than that I just look at the hash mark on the cutter and eye them for equal length. Don't forget to do the rakers too after you even up all the cutters. You'll need a raker gauge and a flat file. After filing each raker I do one stroke on the nose of the raker to round off the leading edge, so it's not square. Hey, best of all, if the power goes out, and you got downed trees in a storm, you can still sharpen your chain  Hand filing like this only removes very little material and you'll get a long service life from your chains. I found brand new chains out of the box with a difference of .010 between cutter lengths. I like to keep them within 0- .003 difference between cutter lengths.


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## Got Wood (Oct 11, 2010)

BigV said:
			
		

> I purchased this electric sharpener a year ago from Harbor Freight and it works great. Easy to set-up and use and the results are almost like using a brand new blade. It’s on sale right now for $39.00



Well you guys convinced me to give it a try. Ordered it yesterday for $29.99. Will report back once I get to use it.


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## toytrkman (Oct 11, 2010)

I purchased this one from Northern Tool and found it almost as good as the Oregon that I used at work for many years.


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## oldspark (Oct 11, 2010)

toytrkman said:
			
		

> I purchased this one from Northern Tool and found it almost as good as the Oregon that I used at work for many years.


 That's the one that jay says is the best copy of the expensive Oregon.


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## Highbeam (Oct 11, 2010)

toytrkman said:
			
		

> I purchased this one from Northern Tool and found it almost as good as the Oregon that I used at work for many years.



Those get great reviews too. Of course, you paid probably about 4 times what the HF unit cost so it had better be good.


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## toytrkman (Oct 12, 2010)

Ya it was more. I paid $99 for it but I think they are a little more now. Well worth it though if you cut lots of wood and still much cheaper than the Oregon. Wouldn't want to be without now.  :cheese:


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## kubota (Nov 7, 2010)

Does anyone have experience with the Oregon 511AX? I just ordered one after reading a lot of good reviews on it. Have I made a mistake?


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## toytrkman (Nov 7, 2010)

My guess is you will be thrilled with it. I used an older one (511a maybe?) at the shop I worked at years ago and it was great! I would have bought an Oregon if I thought I could afford it. But I bought the imitation instead and have been happy with it too.


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## Got Wood (Nov 8, 2010)

Got Wood said:
			
		

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I have now used this sharpener and am pleased with it. I have sharpened 4 chains already so it has paid for itself (I get charged $8 per chain). I'll say the instructions were pretty useless but even I figured out how to use it. I have used 2 of the chains (an Oregon on my 16" and a Stihl on my 20"). Results are good. I can see where this isnt a high end tool but it does the job I'm looking for it to do and has paid for itself already and will many times over.


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## pshking (Nov 9, 2010)

I have the exact same HF one. It has already paid for itself several times. I just mounted it to a 2x4 block, and lock it in a bench vise when i sharpen chains. It is on the flexible side but with a little patience, it does a pretty good job.


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## fjord (Nov 9, 2010)

xclimber said:
			
		

> *Hand file, once you spend some time , you'll get an understanding of what needs to be done. *Go to Harbor Freight and pick up a dial indicator, they're cheap there. Put one paint dot on top of a cutter, start measuring the length of the cutters as you go around and keeping bringing the dial caliper dial back to the zero mark as you keep finding a smaller cutter. Once around to the paint dot, you've now found the shortest cutter. Now rotate the dial face until you reading .005 above zero,if the cutters aren't bad.  If the cutters are in rough shape I'll remove  about .010. Now file each cutter until your back to reading zero on each one. That my friend gives you a nice cutting chain. I only do this about half way thru the cutters life. Other than that I just look at the hash mark on the cutter and eye them for equal length. Don't forget to *do the rakers *too after you even up all the cutters. You'll need a raker gauge and a flat file. After filing each raker I do one stroke on the nose of the raker to round off the leading edge, so it's not square. Hey, best of all, if the power goes out, and you got downed trees in a storm, you can still sharpen your chain  *Hand filing like this only removes very little material and you'll get a long service life from your chains. *I found brand new chains out of the box with a difference of .010 between cutter lengths. I like to keep them within 0- .003 difference between cutter lengths.



Sounds like you know the Gunks X. Rock or ice, your skill at knowing your gear, how to use it, repairing it,and maintaining it IS your lifeline. Not much different from chainsaws.

For serious users, hand sharpening is the ONLY way. In woodlands, away from any vehicle except your woods ATV or skidder, chains need work, sometimes often in dirty wood ON THE STUMP such as dead standing oak. For far  less than the price of a super duper powerful power bench sharpening device, you can buy a stump vise, and the *PFERD* tool or two(see Bailey's online or a pro dealer) that will do both the tooth and raker with each pass . The PFERD fits the gauge of your chain. Follow your witness marking on each tooth ...simple, easy fast. With little experience, you can sharpen a chain *on the bar *in a stump vise or in the shop faster than any super electric grinder  (remember setup time, the chain off the bar, changing wheels, adjustments ). And no chance of NO BURNING of the temper.

PFERD.


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## Got Wood (Nov 9, 2010)

pking said:
			
		

> I have the exact same HF one. It has already paid for itself several times. I just mounted it to a 2x4 block, and lock it in a bench vise when i sharpen chains. It is on the flexible side but with a little patience, it does a pretty good job.



I did the same


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## Kenster (Nov 9, 2010)

I have the right tools to sharpen the chains of my cheapo Craftsman and my new Stihl 390.  I've read lots of tutorials and watched many Youtube videos.  I'm still reluctant to try my hand at sharpening, though.   I am a real hands on, visual learner.  I guess I need to find a neighbor who does his own chains that can show me the ropes.


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## fjord (Nov 10, 2010)

Kenster said:
			
		

> I have the right tools to sharpen the chains of my cheapo Craftsman and my new Stihl 390. I've read lots of tutorials and watched many Youtube videos. I'm still reluctant to try my hand at sharpening, though. I am a real hands on, visual learner. I guess I need to find a neighbor who does his own chains that can show me the ropes.



No fear, just do it on an older chain. There's no macho with chainsaws for real users.  When you get a new chain it has a spec sheet in the box with all the correct angles. Dealers have the Oregon book for bar and chain maintenance. It's free and well done and clear. Stihl has similar instructions online.

Google PFERD: it's under the Husky brand also for each gauged chain. Forget those silly girlie sharpeners--they break, in the wrong hands you can ( most do ) screw up a chain by burning, and the wheels wear quickly.
Yes, the super power sharpeners fail. The rakers stihl need lowering with many sharpenings. Rakers properly set are your friend. Most here (appointed experts) haven't done their rakers---ever.
Hand sharpen. It's easy, fast, safe, an indispensable skill for the real users in woodlands. Real I say.

PFERD.


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## AngusMac (Nov 10, 2010)

Well, you learn something new everyday and to be honest I never knew there was another method other than a sharpening kit.

When I m in the forests I sharpen the saw there, I mark the first link with a marker pen, then procede to sharpen using an independent roller guide and a 3/8 file.

Because I m cutting solid, dry elm, I need to sharpen after each fill of fuel, so in other words it takes approx 3 fills and 3 sharpenings, to fill a 3 tonne trailer.
I just run the file twice over each link, thats enough.
I can get many years out of one chain, I would guess about 90-120 tonnes of wood


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## smokinj (Nov 10, 2010)

This produces very fast production chains.


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## fjord (Nov 10, 2010)

AngusMac said:
			
		

> Well, you learn something new everyday and to be honest I never knew there was another method other than a sharpening kit.
> 
> When I m in the forests I sharpen the saw there, I mark the first link with a marker pen, then procede to sharpen using an independent roller guide and a 3/8 file.
> 
> ...



I did the same before a friend Forester and logger showed me the Pferd tool. The first link still needs marking. It is honestly better than silicone implants, or the Stihl "flippy" caps.
Find it online at Baileys or your pro dealer in Glasgow. Super invention that works.


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## Battenkiller (Nov 11, 2010)

fjord said:
			
		

> a friend Forester and logger showed me the Pferd tool.  Super invention that works.



I just got the one Pferd makes for Husqvarna.  Same tool, but in Husky orange (shows up on the forest floor better).  I agree, it's a great tool, unless you subscribe to the Carlton sharpening method.  Carlton insists that the rakers need to be not just lowered, but _progressively_ lowered as the cutter plate shortens.  Others I talk to think that's a bunch of hooey, so I'll just practice away with the Pferd tool.  Even on a brand new chain, the Pferd found and lowered several rakers that were a bit too high.  My chains cut even better than new now.  I'll never send a chain out for grinding again.

If you are into grinders, have you ever tried this one?


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## OhioBurner© (Nov 11, 2010)

With all this talk on sharpening chains, is there a good writeup or diagram? For example, whats a 'raker'? And how do you know how much to file it? I have watched some of the youtube vids on sharpening chains but they are all pretty basic, using a hand file and a few strokes each alternating tooth, then repeat on other side. Everyone always talks about marking the first one but on my chain there is 1 link thats like twice as long as all the rest so I always start there so I dont have to mark. Do I have a non-typical chain? It came with my saw. I can usualy tell just by looking at what ones have been sharpened anyways (nice n shiny vs dirty).


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## loon (Nov 11, 2010)

pile o’ wood said:
			
		

> Everyone always talks about marking the first one but on my chain there is 1 link thats like twice as long as all the rest so I always start there so I dont have to mark. Do I have a non-typical chain? It came with my saw.).



thats how they make the loop  ;-)


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## Battenkiller (Nov 11, 2010)

pile o’ wood said:
			
		

> For example, whats a 'raker'? And how do you know how much to file it?



The raker, or "depth gauge", is the hump in front of the cutter tooth.  It sets the depth of cut for the chain.  Too little and the cutter won't get a bite into the wood, too much and the chain will get grabby and jump in the cut.  It usually has a number stamped on it that lets you know how much lower it should be than the cutter plate.  For example, the number "25" indicates that it should be .025" lower than the cutter edges.  Most folks don't measure, and only give it a few strokes every 3-4 sharpenings.  There are many depth gauge guides on the market.  Get one recommended by your chain manufacturer.  The Pferd tool has a flat file incorporated into the guide so the depth gauge gets lowered a tiny amount every time you file the chain.


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## fjord (Nov 11, 2010)

Thanks for at least one common sense user here on the value of sharpening by hand with a gauge--Pferd or others.

Nice explanation of what the raker does; it should be basic understanding before cutting for the first time.
Rakers are usually lowered to match the species being cut: softwood, hardwood, or chainsaw milling. The Pferd design averages the specification for both woods. It files the tooth and drops the raker
averaging out the raker for both kinds of wood. The "new and improved" Pferd now allows you to do both sides of the chain without changing both files. Google it.

Even with the enthusiam here for gadget tools like power sharpeners, the rakers still need attention; those power wheels will not do rakers in one blow like the Pferd. No need for power.
No need to remove the chain from the bar. No burning of temper. Ability to USE the chainsaw in woodlands distant from roads, workshop, or vehicle. Try it.


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## smokinj (Nov 11, 2010)

fjord said:
			
		

> Thanks for at least one common sense user here on the value of sharpening by hand with a gauge--Pferd or others.
> 
> Nice explanation of what the raker does; it should be basic understanding before cutting for the first time.
> Rakers are usually lowered to match the species being cut: softwood, hardwood, or chainsaw milling. The Pferd design averages the specification for both woods. It files the tooth and drops the raker
> ...



You can cool grind a chain. Progressive depth filing the rakers is preferd way to do it. (hand filed for shape and depth)


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## Battenkiller (Nov 11, 2010)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> You can cool grind a chain. Progressive depth filing the rakers is preferd way to do it. (hand filed for shape and depth)



SJ, you are absolutely right.  I used to grind tool steel nearly every day of my life, and I rarely screwed up and blued the steel and ruined it.  Having freshly dressed wheels is a huge factor in cool grinding.  Guys like yourself that have learned to do this correctly and are now taking in work can get pretty good at grinding.  I know guys that will grind in two or three passes if the chain has bad chips that need to be removed, other shops might just have some new kid do your chain.  Just like doctors, you eventually need to start training the new ones on real patients.   

At the shop where I got my 420, one of the owners stuck a saw in the vice to hand-file for a special customer.  You need to buy a lot of saws to get that kind of treatment.  Any way you look at it, you either need to learn to grind cool, trust someone else to know how to do it, or learn to hand-file your own chains.

I've read the Carlton literature that describes in great detail exactly how your chain cuts and why you need to progressively lower your rakers.  Makes perfect sense, but guys I trust say that if the cutters actually tipped up the way they describe, there would be a lot more wear at the bottom corners of the cutters and they just don't see this, even though that area isn't chrome hardened like the top plate is.  For me, I won't worry about that until my cutter plates get short enough for that to matter.

In the meantime, using the Pferd guide is a vast improvement over my previous freehand attempts with just files.  I'll never come close to getting enough experience with sharpening to freehand a chain, I need all the help I can get.


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## smokinj (Nov 11, 2010)

Battenkiller said:
			
		

> smokinjay said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Sounds good! To me the shape of the raker is more important then anything else....This really will show up in milling, but makes a very fast cross cut chain. less drag less friction faster chain.


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## Flatbedford (Nov 11, 2010)

Did somebody post a link to this Stihl video yet?
http://stihldealer.net/videolibrary/OnePlayer.aspx?v=3&vt=3&vb=0&id=3
It gives a pretty good overview of chain sharpening and maintenance. It shows the parts of the chain and how to file it. This video is almost 17 minutes.


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## Battenkiller (Nov 13, 2010)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> To me the shape of the raker is more important then anything else....This really will show up in milling, but makes a very fast cross cut chain. less drag less friction faster chain.



Makes sense to me.  After I got done with the Pferd the first time, it cut some rakers a bit more than the others.  Some it barely touched.  That's why I think it cuts better now, the rakers are all at the same height now and they weren't quite that way from the factory.  I also took the time to smooth out the little corner at the back of the raker that the flat file left.  I've seen others that just leave it flat, but it seems they would be smoother against the wood if they were rounded, just takes a few minutes and is easy enough to do by eye.


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## smokinj (Nov 13, 2010)

This isnt a great pic of the raker but you can tell the shape of it.


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## StackedLumber (Nov 13, 2010)

I'm surprised that more people haven't mentioned the Dremel for sharpening.  I had been handfiling, but got a Dremel here recently and have loved it for sharpening.  It's faster and more exact when you use the right stone size for sharpening.  (IMHO)  It's kind of the "in between" way of going between a grinding wheel outfit and a hand file.  also +1 on the making sure the rakers are filed down, it makes all the difference in the world!


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## spencer186 (Feb 19, 2011)

For all you guys using the PFERD tool, I've had them for over 15 years.  I've got 2 sizes, one for my small saws and one for the big ones.  I've had good results on the small saws but recently I've been cutting big wood.  I mean really big wood.  Wood that has me thinking about getting a 32" bar to replace the 24" on my 394XP.  I agree its great to be able to sharpen in the field and that it hits the rakers too. My problem is the angles. I can't get both sides of the chains equal and the bar is curving through the wood and not cutting straight. Not that big of a problem in small wood, but when you're cutting through over 2 feet of wood is't very problematic.  Also, if I use the 35* angle the guide recommends it seems to be way too sharp of an angle and the tooth gets really pointy.  I try to keep the guide level and perpendicular to the bar with a gentle up and in motion as I was taught long ago.  Haven't been able to get good results though lately.  Any tips from other users?


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## CTYank (Feb 19, 2011)

For 35 years or so, I've found Granberg's file guide to be the simplest way to keep precise razor edges on LP-3/8" and std 38" chain. Minimal metal removal.
Very simple to set and hold angles, and set depth-gauges. Clamps on bar and separately clamps chain to avoid wobbling while filing.
Never had a chain that wouldn't cut straight, with nice BIG chips.
I've tried the electrically-powered grinders with the ~3/16" diam stones. No thanks.


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## fatwoodfirestarters (Feb 20, 2011)

That looks very good does it put the same angle as factory?  I do not like doing it with a file because it does not seem to stay as sharp for me with a round file.  I will have to check that out if it can put the factory angle on it.





			
				BigV said:
			
		

> I purchased this electric sharpener a year ago from Harbor Freight and it works great. Easy to set-up and use and the results are almost like using a brand new blade. Itï¿½s on sale right now for $39.00


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