# Best way to clear a path into the wood lot ????



## HDRock

I have never cleared a path through the woods like this before, so , any suggestions to get er done quickest, easiest way would be helpful. 

I have recently got permission to cut all the dead stuff out of approximately 2 1/2 acres right next door to my property 

I just need to make small path to get the garden tractor and little trailer through to get in and get the wood out.

There are saplings and in some places thick brush and thorn bushes .

Now I don't have access to a bulldozer or bobcat or anything like that , I do have 18 horse garden tractor , and a snow blade I haven't used in a long while , but not sure that is going to do any good for me.

I have a gas Ryobi trimmer with pole hedge trimmer, pole reciprocating saw ,and a metal brush blade for it, a couple of machetes, and the obvious ,chainsaws hatchets, axes.


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## Trickle

In Boy Scouts we used to clear trails all the time.  We first went through and planned and marked with ribbons a route for the trail, going around big ditches, rocks, big trees, etc.  The boys then went through with handsaws or a hand weed wacker (looks like a golf club but with a blade on the end).  The adults then came behind with a chainsaw for any larger saplings that we couldn't route around.  The stuff you list should be plenty.  I found the most important part was to plan the route to make it easy on yourself.


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## Ehouse

Machete and a pair of nippers for cutting close to the ground.


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## ScotO

Trimmer with a brush blade would be best IMO...cut the stuff as close to the ground as you can, but don't hit rocks or dirt.  That'd be how I did it.  I've cleared many trails by hand up on the mountain through thick laurel and rhododendron to get to different hunting stands, it can be quite the job.......


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## BobUrban

x2 on plan your work and work your plan - then go at it with the tools you have available. You will develop a system that works well for you.

Clean up your work and trail really well so that your neighbor is pleased with your work and can possibly use the trail to walk their dog, etc...  Happy neighbors are a good thing and may afford future opportunties from other neighbors depending on your situation.


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## lukem

Dozer.  Doesn't get faster or easier then that.


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## Defiant

Rent a conveyor system, just an idea


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## Redlegs

Trickle said:


> In Boy Scouts we used to clear trails all the time. We first went through and planned and marked with ribbons a route for the trail, going around big ditches, rocks, big trees, etc. The boys then went through with handsaws or a hand weed wacker (looks like a golf club but with a blade on the end). The adults then came behind with a chainsaw for any larger saplings that we couldn't route around. The stuff you list should be plenty. I found the most important part was to plan the route to make it easy on yourself.​


 
Did it the same way in my Troop.   +1 more vote for planning/marking the route. 
It sounds like you have a lot of "woody plant growth" and a forest with a good deal of understory.  It might be worth your time to rent a brush mower?  Maybe the landowner wants more - or less- understory cleared.  Talk to him about it after you plan the route, make sure he likes it too, and who knows he might offer to share in the rental costs.

Remeber when you clear limbs for the trail to use good arborist techniques.  If your unsure, I found this link..
http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/pruning_mature.aspx
it's just a starting place, but there are lots of other tree pruning info sites out there. The point I am trying make is that when a landowner lets me onto his place to harvest trees, I want to be the best steward I can be, and cutting back limbs using proper techniques is a part of that strategy.  I am such a cheeser, I will even get my wife bake a little someting for the landowner.  Just a thought.


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## HDRock

Planning it and marking it out is something I didn't think of ,and probably would not have done that, very good advice
Oh ya got big pair of loppers,and a couple of hand op pruning poles
I know it's going to be a bit of work but, once I get the dead wood out It will be much easier to get to the 15 or 20 apple trees that most of the fruit just falls on the ground and rots.
There is a couple of dead apple trees to, ohoo it smells so good


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## Bigg_Redd

HDRock said:


> I have never cleared a path through the woods like this before, so , *any suggestions to get er done quickest, easiest way would be helpful. *
> 
> I have recently got permission to cut all the dead stuff out of approximately 2 1/2 acres right next door to my property
> 
> I just need to make small path to get the garden tractor and little trailer through to get in and get the wood out.
> 
> There are saplings and in some places thick brush and thorn bushes .
> 
> Now I don't have access to a bulldozer or bobcat or anything like that , I do have 18 horse garden tractor , and a snow blade I haven't used in a long while , but not sure that is going to do any good for me.
> 
> I have a gas Ryobi trimmer with pole hedge trimmer, pole reciprocating saw ,and a metal brush blade for it, a couple of machetes, and the obvious ,chainsaws hatchets, axes.


 
Caterpillar D6


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## HDRock

Bigg_Redd said:


> Caterpillar D6


Yes, it would do the job


Bigg_Redd said:


> Now I don't have access to a bulldozer or bobcat or anything like that


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## Bigg_Redd

Full disclosure: I didn't read your post.


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## HDRock

Bigg_Redd said:


> Full disclosure: I didn't read your post.


 
Ya I think we all read fast and skip things  U just read the bold print right, I'll fix that


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## lukem

My dad and I cleared about 1/2 mile of trail in his woods.  First walk the trail and mark trees, branches, etc so you can have a clear line of sight.  If you just wing it you'll run into an unforseen road-block that could have easily been avoided.  Make sure you can see your markings from a good distance and can line up a couple to ensure you are tracking straight (if that's what you are after).

From there, it comes down to hard work.  Cut out what needs cut out, making sure all stumps are cut flat and not at and angle (angled stumps are very effective at making flat tires).  Once you have the big stuff out of the way, trim the branches to make the trail open on the edges.  Then you can set your mower deck on the highest setting and mow or use a string trimmer to clear the undergrowth.


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## charly

Since you will probably be cutting lots of saplings close to the ground,, don't over look making good level cuts,, angled cuts will not only risk a tire puncture driving over them but a trip or fall could leave you or your neighbor with a pretty good injury... When I did line clearance angled cuts on the ground or the trees where frowned upon, known as dog ears..


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## gzecc

Without pictures its hard to see the issues. I would put on the snow blade and go at it slowly but surely with the snow blade and any other cutters you have.


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## KaptJaq

BobUrban said:


> Clean up your work and trail really well so that your neighbor is pleased with your work and can possibly use the trail


 
+1 on cleanup after yourself.  After planning your path it is probably the most important thing on another person's property. Good first impressions will help develop long term relations and probably provide you with wood for years to come...

KaptJaq


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## Applesister

The best time to get at it is now. When all the undergrowth gets going you wont be able to see the low areas. Look for ferns and avoid those spots. Cattails too. I would opt for clearing brush out instead of cutting trees down. But its more work. When things get going in June you will need to come back and use an herbicide like RoundUp. Brush will grow back even thicker. Dont use your mower to make a path where you cut saplings. Thats a great way to bend a spindle.
A chipper would be handy and then just leave the chips on your trail. 
You said you dont have access to this stuff but the best tool is a mini excavator with a thumb attachment and rubber tracks and a landscaping blade. They usually rent for 700.00 week. A Caterpillar 302. They are very user friendly.


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## HDRock

Scotty Overkill said:


> Trimmer with a brush blade would be best IMO...cut the stuff as close to the ground as you can, but don't hit rocks or dirt. That'd be how I did it. I've cleared many trails by hand up on the mountain through thick laurel and rhododendron to get to different hunting stands, it can be quite the job.......


About the brush blade , it is a 4 wing type blade, and fact is I never used it, so will it cut saplings ? how big ?
I see other types of blades available, are they better ?


gzecc said:


> Without pictures its hard to see the issues. I would put on the snow blade and go at it slowly but surely with the snow blade and any other cutters you have.


 
I'll get some pics so ya all can get a idea



lukem said:


> My dad and I cleared about 1/2 mile of trail in his woods. First walk the trail and mark trees, branches, etc so you can have a clear line of sight. If you just wing it you'll run into an unforseen road-block that could have easily been avoided. Make sure you can see your markings from a good distance and can line up a couple to ensure you are tracking straight (if that's what you are after).
> 
> From there, it comes down to hard work. Cut out what needs cut out, making sure all stumps are cut flat and not at and angle (angled stumps are very effective at making flat tires). Once you have the big stuff out of the way, trim the branches to make the trail open on the edges. Then you can set your mower deck on the highest setting and mow or use a string trimmer to clear the undergrowth.


 
I'm not lookin to make a straight trail, just to snake in through and cut as little as possible.
Good point on the pointy stuff, but there a good chance I may get a flat with all the thorns out there, got some on the lil trailer before, never had tractor out there


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## ScotO

The 4" blade will be fine on saplings several inches in diameter.  You may want to look into the saw blade style rather than a 4 blade cutter.  The more teeth on the blade, the smoother cutting it will be (easier to manage).


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## HDRock

Applesister said:


> The best time to get at it is now. When all the undergrowth gets going you wont be able to see the low areas. Look for ferns and avoid those spots. Cattails too. I would opt for clearing brush out instead of cutting trees down. But its more work. When things get going in June you will need to come back and use an herbicide like RoundUp. Brush will grow back even thicker. Dont use your mower to make a path where you cut saplings. Thats a great way to bend a spindle.
> A chipper would be handy and then just leave the chips on your trail.
> You said you dont have access to this stuff but the best tool is a mini excavator with a thumb attachment and rubber tracks and a landscaping blade. They usually rent for 700.00 week. A Caterpillar 302. They are very user friendly.


 
 I have a chipper don't use it any more, don't know why I bought it, I dump leaves in the woods and burn any sticks or brush, why would I want to use it out there?

This ,   rent for 700.00 week,    is not gonna happen


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## HDRock

Scotty Overkill said:


> The more teeth on the blade, the smoother cutting it will be (easier to manage)


 
That's what I was thinking, it takes a 8" blade , I See they have carbide blades also, for durability


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## lukem

HDRock said:


> I'm not lookin to make a straight trail, just to snake in through and cut as little as possible.
> Good point on the pointy stuff, but there a good chance I may get a flat with all the thorns out there, got some on the lil trailer before, never had tractor out there


 
Check with the land-owner...they might actually appreciate a nice straight trail.  A straight trail is easier to widen out in the future...and much easier to navigate with a trailer.  If someone was cutting a trail on my land, I would want it to be as usable as possible without taking out large trees.  You could cut out all the brush you want.

Better yet, mark the trail and walk it with the land-owner before you cut the first twig.  Best to get their buy-in on what you are doing.  You can't un-cut / un-clear a trail.


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## HDRock

Applesister said:


> The best time to get at it is now.


That's why I'm asking now , to get to it now, before all the foliage obscures my view , and makes things more difficult


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## HDRock

lukem said:


> Check with the land-owner...they might actually appreciate a nice straight trail. A straight trail is easier to widen out in the future...and much easier to navigate with a trailer. If someone was cutting a trail on my land, I would want it to be as usable as possible without taking out large trees. You could cut out all the brush you want.
> 
> Better yet, mark the trail and walk it with the land-owner before you cut the first twig. Best to get their buy-in on what you are doing. You can't un-cut / un-clear a trail.


I don't have permission to take out bigger live trees, any way


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## Bocefus78

My way is a little more work, but well worth it in the end. I agree walking it and marking it is step one. Marking paint for whole trees and tp hanging from branches makes for a good visual line of sight indicator. Regarding the small stumps....take a shovel! A mil surplus folding one is all you need. Dig around them a little bit so you can get the stump below grade. As you drive down the trail more and more with your rig and the soil compacts, those stumps cut at ground level, will all of a sudden be a few inches above grade! What you will be cutting will be dirty so use semi chisel chain if sawing, and keep a spare handy along with a file. If they are small enough for loppers, use em! I tend to leave the stumps 12" above ground, paint em up, and the very last step is stumping since it trashes chains with a quickness!


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## HDRock

Pics
Pic 1 is where I will start
2 irrigation ditch ,stove ashes in it 
3,4 you see where the it gets thick, 30- 40 yards after that it it gets less thick
5 dead apple tree
 EDIT:
Third Pic,  to the right, is probably where I will go through the thick stuff, there was foot trail there many years ago


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## Applesister

Road building is fun no matter how you do it. ;-)


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## BobUrban

Here is a couple views of my woods from the deck.  Obviously this time of year it looks rather sparse but w/o round-up it gets darn right nasty in the summer and you cannot see beyond the rock wall other than on the trail.  When I first moved here there was no trail at all and I wanted a 125yd rifle range off my deck so I went to work on it.  Mostly with loppers and hand saws to get the small stuff and a lot of travel at high rates of speed with the quad.  the only real trees I have cut this side of the creek(very back of the photo) have been ash and one hollow maple.  The monster multi trunk maple in the pic actually leafs out and is a nice tree in the summer although it will be firewood some day I am afraid. 

Left to it's natural course this is a poison ivy laden jungle.  Round-up is your friend!!  And your neighbor will apreciate it when the path is accesible during the summer months. 

For the rest of my property and firewood gathering I just work my way into places as I go making through trails to pull the trailer through with the quad.  Just think ahead, take your time and you will enjoy the fruits of your labor for years to come.  It also makes for whitetail super highways so be prepared to see more game animals in the back yard. 

BTW - a chipper would be a great addition to my tool box because I could chip the junk and fill in low spots.  I may have to do some CL searching for that one


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## thewoodlands

On our property we have a main trail which was there when we bought the land, so when I need a trail off the main trail I'll always make sure I clear to the area I'm cutting with a loop out before I start, if I can't make a loop for some reason then it's a turnaround.

I always make sure the good trees stay, the majority of my work is picking up dead chit to move out of the way.


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## Bocefus78

After seeing that mess, I'd be going around the thick stuff. Looks pretty flat too. How long of a trail are we talking here? If it's not that far, ( I mean, its 2 acres-it cant be that far) honestly, in the amount of time it takes to make a trail thru that thick of stuff, I bet I could get a big 2 wheeled wheelbarrow in there, go around the thick crap, and have more than a couple loads in the truck. Recruit some help for pushing it out. Alternate load pushing to conserve energy. Dont forget to give the landowner some beer or something of the like as a thank you.

BTW, you better get on it...one that mess leafs out, you wont be able to see thru it!


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## HDRock

zap said:


> On our property we have a main trail which was there when we bought the land, so when I need a trail off the main trail I'll always make sure I clear to the area I'm cutting with a loop out before I start, if I can't make a loop for some reason then it's a turnaround.
> 
> I always make sure the good trees stay, the majority of my work is picking up dead chit to move out of the way.


 
That's what I planed on is a trail kinda through the middle, and go off from there


Bocefus78 said:


> After seeing that mess, I'd be going around the thick stuff. Looks pretty flat too. How long of a trail are we talking here? If it's not that far, ( I mean, its 2 acres-it cant be that far) honestly, in the amount of time it takes to make a trail thru that thick of stuff, I bet I could get a big 2 wheeled wheelbarrow in there, go around the thick crap, and have more than a couple loads in the truck. Recruit some help for pushing it out. Alternate load pushing to conserve energy. Dont forget to give the landowner some beer or something of the like as a thank you.
> 
> BTW, you better get on it...one that mess leafs out, you wont be able to see thru it!


I have to go through some of the thick stuff, there is a strip of it from front to back of property, and some u can't hardly walk through, for the thorns




BobUrban said:


> Here is a couple views of my woods from the deck. Obviously this time of year it looks rather sparse but w/o round-up it gets darn right nasty in the summer and you cannot see beyond the rock wall other than on the trail. When I first moved here there was no trail at all and I wanted a 125yd rifle range off my deck so I went to work on it. Mostly with loppers and hand saws to get the small stuff and a lot of travel at high rates of speed with the quad. the only real trees I have cut this side of the creek(very back of the photo) have been ash and one hollow maple. The monster multi trunk maple in the pic actually leafs out and is a nice tree in the summer although it will be firewood some day I am afraid.
> 
> Left to it's natural course this is a poison ivy laden jungle. Round-up is your friend!! And your neighbor will apreciate it when the path is accesible during the summer months.
> 
> For the rest of my property and firewood gathering I just work my way into places as I go making through trails to pull the trailer through with the quad. Just think ahead, take your time and you will enjoy the fruits of your labor for years to come. It also makes for whitetail super highways so be prepared to see more game animals in the back yard.
> 
> BTW - a chipper would be a great addition to my tool box because I could chip the junk and fill in low spots. I may have to do some CL searching for that one


When U say loppers U mean these, right ?
Most of the Ivy around is on other side adjoining property.


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## thewoodlands

No, I was just talking about making my loop out before I started cutting the tree, I do carry those in the back of the Rhino. We always have small stuff leaning in towards the trail I'll cut with that instead of a chainsaw.


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## HDRock

zap said:


> No, I was just talking about making my loop out before I started cutting, I do carry those in the back of the Rhino. We always have small stuff leaning in towards the trail I'll cut with that instead of a chainsaw.


 I know U were talking about a Loop ,but Bob was talking about loppers
Loops,loopers ,loppers, yupers  very similar words,EDIT spelling yoopers


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## thewoodlands

HDRock said:


> I know U were talking about a Loop ,but Bob was talking about loppers
> Loops,loopers ,loppers, yupers  very similar words


 A few years back we went for a ride in late spring, we came upon two auctions so we stopped at both, I picked up some for $5.00 which are still going strong.


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## HDRock

zap said:


> A few years back we went for a ride in late spring, we came upon two auctions so we stopped at both, I picked up some for $5.00 which are still going strong.


 Ya , I got mine at ACE about 30 yrs ago still work great, and look all most new, and they are well used


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## HDRock

Third Pic, post #27 to the right, is probably where I will go through the thick stuff, there was foot trail there many years ago


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## HDRock

Let me clarify something about the property owner.

The only reason that I have never asked to cut anything on that property is because, I only burned part time, this year the first year I have heated with wood and no other heat source.

Unfortunately my neighbor has recently passed away, if I had asked he would have let me cut the dead stuff out.

The permission I got it from his brother and sister, the main reason I asked in the first place is because of two big dead oak trees close to my house, that are on that property, but will pose a danger if they're not taken down, and I need permission anyway, but also for whoever I hire to drop the oak trees down, it is not in my skill level to take those out, especially one leaning a little toward the house.

The house and that lot plus the wooded area is now all for sale, how long will it take for it to sell? And what will happen after that, I don't know, hopefully someone will buy it all, live in the house on that lot and leave the woods alone, because that's a big reason I bought my property 19 years ago, no neighbors across the street no neighbors on either side, apartment complex quite far away in the back.

I will be communicating further with the sister by phone, apparently she has fruit trees on her property and said this lot should have been kept Cleared for the fruit trees to thrive, anyway, as of right now I have permission to make a pathway takeout brush and cut the dead trees.


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## BobUrban

Yes - those are the "Loppers" I am talking about.  Amazing how fast and safe you can work with a pair.  Anything up to 2" will, well, Lop right off.  I use them all the time making deer trails, quad trails, and yard clean-up.  With a decent pair you can get through that jungle you see.  Just work it back to the stuff they cannot handle and go get a bigger tool.  Even a nice fiskars or equivent pruning saw will get you a trail started and cut quicker than a chainsaw in certain situations.  When running a chainsaw in jungle stuff it can be a pain. 

I think the whole process is fun - but then again, I am a bit of a weirdo!!  I make trails through stuff like you showed all the time without power tools to passively control deer movement.  Unless disturbed deer are like water and take the path of least resistance.  Make a trail through seamingly impenetrable junk and 24hrs later deer will treat it like it was a highway.


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## Backwoods Savage

Applesister said:


> The best time to get at it is now. When all the undergrowth gets going you wont be able to see the low areas. Look for ferns and avoid those spots. Cattails too. I would opt for clearing brush out instead of cutting trees down. But its more work. When things get going* in June you will need to come back and use an herbicide like RoundUp.* Brush will grow back even thicker. Dont use your mower to make a path where you cut saplings. Thats a great way to bend a spindle.
> A chipper would be handy and then just leave the chips on your trail.
> You said you dont have access to this stuff but the best tool is a mini excavator with a thumb attachment and rubber tracks and a landscaping blade. They usually rent for 700.00 week. A Caterpillar 302. They are very user friendly.


 
Whoa! This is not on his own property so no spray!  Besides, I've never seen any need to spray roundup in the woods trails. Much better to do some mowing rather than spraying. If one really wants to do some good he could plant something like ryegrass or every fall plant some wheat. No to the spray.


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## Backwoods Savage

HD, years ago when I cut trails through our woods I did most of it with a large weed whacker that has a brush blade and also a saw. Saved a lot of bending for sure and made the job go rather quickly. In fact, if you would like to borrow that thing you are welcome to it.


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## HDRock

Backwoods Savage said:


> HD, years ago when I cut trails through our woods I did most of it with a large weed whacker that has a brush blade and also a saw. Saved a lot of bending for sure and made the job go rather quickly. In fact, if you would like to borrow that thing you are welcome to it.


I appreciate the offer BW but I got that covered with a Ryobi, I have a bunch of different attachments ,that I have used a lot, and it came with a four wing blade that, I have never used, it does have bike handle and strap.
Got another thread here about blades Edit; Oh I see U been over there


BobUrban said:


> Yes - those are the "Loppers" I am talking about. Amazing how fast and safe you can work with a pair. Anything up to 2" will, well, Lop right off. I use them all the time making deer trails, quad trails, and yard clean-up. With a decent pair you can get through that jungle you see. Just work it back to the stuff they cannot handle and go get a bigger tool. Even a nice fiskars or equivent pruning saw will get you a trail started and cut quicker than a chainsaw in certain situations. When running a chainsaw in jungle stuff it can be a pain.
> 
> I think the whole process is fun - but then again, I am a bit of a weirdo!! I make trails through stuff like you showed all the time without power tools to passively control deer movement. Unless disturbed deer are like water and take the path of least resistance. Make a trail through seamingly impenetrable junk and 24hrs later deer will treat it like it was a highway.


yeah Bob I have cut a footpath with a machete and loppers , and it was fun
I wonder if the yoopers use loppers up there


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## Waulie

Well, it's a 2 acre lot.  A chainsaw and a machete should have you across that sucker in no time.  The hardest part will be getting rid of the brush since you won't be able to just throw it out of the way.   I'd probably make a small side trail (or two) that splits off and extends a little ways off your main trail.  Drag the brush into the side trail and pile it up there.  It'll be a nice spot for wildlife and will get it out of your way.  Wear thick clothing and good gloves.  Should only take a couple hours.  I would personally skip using your tractor, or multiple power tools.  Sometimes things are faster and easier if you just keep it simple.


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## HDRock

Waulie said:


> Well, it's a 2 acre lot. A chainsaw and a machete should have you across that sucker in no time. The hardest part will be getting rid of the brush since you won't be able to just throw it out of the way. I'd probably make a small side trail (or two) that splits off and extends a little ways off your main trail. Drag the brush into the side trail and pile it up there. It'll be a nice spot for wildlife and will get it out of your way. Wear thick clothing and good gloves. Should only take a couple hours. I would personally skip using your tractor, or multiple power tools. Sometimes things are faster and easier if you just keep it simple.


 
With all due respect,  I'm not going to explain all the reasons why ,a chainsaw and a machete alone would not be a good choice _*for me,*_ cheers


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## Waulie

HDRock said:


> With all due respect, I'm not going to explain all the reasons why ,a chainsaw and a machete alone would not be a good choice _*for me,*_ cheers


 
No problem at all.  You asked for opinions.  Mine is worth what you paid for it.


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## HDRock

Waulie said:


> No problem at all. You asked for opinions. Mine is worth what you paid for it.


 And no matter, I do value your opinion, that's what it's all about here.
It is about taking care of the physical abilities so you can go out and do it again tomorrow.


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## scooby074

Do I understand that the property where you're cutting the trail is up for sale? If so, then this could very well be a short lived trail.  Honestly I'd probably hold off until you find out if it sells. Maybe make an offer yourself? Id hate to see you invest time and money in something that you wont even get to use.

That said, I like my clearing saw to make tails. I can cut trees up to 5"+. Smaller stuff like 1" I can cut almost as fast as I can walk. If it was me, Id look at renting one for a weekend. In the pics above, I could blow through that stuff in no time. Its not packed tight and there are no leaves. Once everything greens up, it makes trail making that much harder.  A true spacing/clearing saw is not like your Ryobi. Considerably more powerful. Bike style bars are a must. If you dont have them on your Ryobi, I would NOT use any sharpened metal blades.


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## scooby074

One last thing, can you borrow or do you have an ATV? In my experience garden tractors are almost useless in the woods, particularly if they have a mower deck and turf tires.

Mower deck means that your going to have limited mobility anywhere that is not smooth. You will get hung up. You can remove the deck, I suggest that you do that as a minimum, but that still leave turf tires unless you buy Ag style tires. As soon as you start getting a path beat down, your going to have mud. That means you will pack the tires and have no traction at all. Turfs get slick REAL easy. I could get stuck on my lawn with my old GT without even trying hard:D

A typical snow plow is of not much use in the woods, 1. because the mower cant get traction and 2. because the plow is probably spring loaded, meaning it will likely trip if you do happen to find any traction.


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## HDRock

scooby074 said:


> One last thing, can you borrow or do you have an ATV? In my experience garden tractors are almost useless in the woods, particularly if they have a mower deck and turf tires.
> 
> Mower deck means that your going to have limited mobility anywhere that is not smooth. You will get hung up. You can remove the deck, I suggest that you do that as a minimum, but that still leave turf tires unless you buy Ag style tires. As soon as you start getting a path beat down, your going to have mud. That means you will pack the tires and have no traction at all. Turfs get slick REAL easy. I could get stuck on my lawn with my old GT without even trying hard:D
> 
> A typical snow plow is of not much use in the woods, 1. because the mower cant get traction and 2. because the plow is probably spring loaded, meaning it will likely trip if you do happen to find any traction.


 
Sorry !  I just had to ,but wow ! U can take the mower deck off ???  
The tractor is custom weighted, and with the chains ,well


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## HDRock

HDRock said:


> I got that covered with a Ryobi, I have a bunch of different attachments ,that I have used a lot, and it came with a four wing blade that, I have never used, it does have bike handle and strap.





scooby074 said:


> Do I understand that the property where you're cutting the trail is up for sale? If so, then this could very well be a short lived trail. Honestly I'd probably hold off until you find out if it sells. Maybe make an offer yourself? Id hate to see you invest time and money in something that you wont even get to use.
> 
> That said, I like my clearing saw to make tails. I can cut trees up to 5"+. Smaller stuff like 1" I can cut almost as fast as I can walk. If it was me, Id look at renting one for a weekend. In the pics above, I could blow through that stuff in no time. Its not packed tight and there are no leaves. Once everything greens up, it makes trail making that much harder. A true spacing/clearing saw is not like your Ryobi. Considerably more powerful. Bike style bars are a must. If you dont have them on your Ryobi, I would NOT use any sharpe/ned metal blades.


If I had my way , when I am dead n gone, all 4 acres would have no buildings, and be designated as small animal refuge, and left as such for ever ,with life giving oxygen.


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## Wood Duck

I'd carefully scout potential routes and pick one tht requires the least disturbance. I would avoid moving any dirt, and cut as few bushes and saplings as possible. If you leave behind walking trails, that may be considered a benefit to the neighbor, but leaving behind muddy scars, piles of cut brush, etc. would be a poor way to repay the neighbor for letting you cut firewood. Even if the neighbor says he doesn't mind you making trails, I wouldn't assume that means you should tear up the ground. For the most part, if you don't scrape up the soil too much, cutting shrubs and small trees has little impact on the forest. and in a few years you won't be able to tell where the trails were, unless you keep using them.


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## HDRock

scooby074 said:


> A true spacing/clearing saw is not like your Ryobi. Considerably more powerful. Bike style bars are a must. If you dont have them on your Ryobi, I would NOT use any sharpened metal blades.


 The Ryobi is intended to use a brush blade cuz it came with one


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## HDRock

Wood Duck said:


> I'd carefully scout potential routes and pick one tht requires the least disturbance. I would avoid moving any dirt, and cut as few bushes and saplings as possible. If you leave behind walking trails, that may be considered a benefit to the neighbor, but leaving behind muddy scars, piles of cut brush, etc. would be a poor way to repay the neighbor for letting you cut firewood. Even if the neighbor says he doesn't mind you making trails, I wouldn't assume that means you should tear up the ground. For the most part, if you don't scrape up the soil too much, cutting shrubs and small trees has little impact on the forest. and in a few years you won't be able to tell where the trails were, unless you keep using them.


I have no intention of tearing up the ground and if I did I would fix it.


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## HDRock

Waulie said:


> Well, it's a 2 acre lot. A chainsaw and a machete should have you across that sucker in no time. The hardest part will be getting rid of the brush since you won't be able to just throw it out of the way. I'd probably make a small side trail (or two) that splits off and extends a little ways off your main trail. Drag the brush into the side trail and pile it up there. It'll be a nice spot for wildlife and will get it out of your way. Wear thick clothing and good gloves. Should only take a couple hours. I would personally skip using your tractor, or multiple power tools. Sometimes things are faster and easier if you just keep it simple.


Well I think I will end up taking the chipper out there to deal with the brush


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## HDRock

Applesister said:


> A chipper would be handy and then just leave the chips on your trail.


After thinking about it , the chipper would be a good way to deal with the brush, and get it out of the way, I have to do something with it, and that would beat dragging it around.


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## HDRock

A lot of good suggestions here thanks every one


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## scooby074

HDRock said:


> The Ryobi is intended to use a brush blade cuz it came with one


 

Tri blade is for *light* brush/heavy grass. If your machine came with it, it is likely equipped with the partial bike bars. They are needed for leverage against kickback. Much of what is in your pics is too heavy for a triblade.


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## HDRock

scooby074 said:


> Tri blade is for *light* brush/heavy grass. If your machine came with it, it is likely equipped with the partial bike bars. They are needed for leverage against kickback. Much of what is in your pics is too heavy for a triblade.


  I had a talk with the stihl dealer and here is a thread about the blades , Brush cutter blades, wing cutters, or fine tooth ???
It has a bike type  handle bar but only one not two, and a strap I always use


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## scooby074

The chisel tooth (circ saw) blade is not appropriate for your single handle Ryobi. Even considering the ryobi's low power, it can still give you a wicked kickback.Not only is it not safe, it is going to put premature wear on your machine.


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## billb3

I use a heavy duty levered lopper pruner for any saplings it will handle to keep a saw blade out of the dirt. Mine are around 50 years old and similar to these:





also a pull stroke pruning saw

both also come in handy cutting branches off of trees, basically if it is too big for the loppers it is firewood


I cut branches into smallish pieces and spread them out on the forest floor to disintegrate naturally rather than chipping. A one inch pine branch is usually gone in two years. No piles of brush, With ground contact and being stepped on they disppear pretty quick. Not too small, life is short and I want to be making firewood.


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## tcassavaugh

heres something to think about....is there a preferred way that the land owner might want you to proceed? Just a thought...

cass


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## Isaac Carlson

Don't disturb the soil, you will end up stuck sooner or later.  Just cut everything off at ground level and go to work.


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