# Baffle question for my All-Nighter



## MaineiacBackpacker (Oct 12, 2015)

I don't have a Fisher but I have the Lil Moe All Nighter. What do you think of this baffle, before and after?


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## coaly (Oct 12, 2015)

Moved to Classic Forum where an All-Nighter owner may know what baffle, if any they were equipped with.
I know the large ring around the outlet is a water jacket and should be exposed to the hottest part of stove, so a baffle would take away from that when used for hydronic heating. I would think the air flow tubes should be exposed to flame, so any baffle would work best behind and above them. May not be possible, so all you can do is record pipe temps vs. stove top temps with and without the baffle. I'm sure it will help clean up the particulate by raising combustion zone temperature if that is your goal.


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## apersonnameddan (Dec 18, 2015)

I can't find it now but, I think it was in Coaly's Fisher baffle thread, someone built a telescoping/sliding baffle with two plates and some angle welded on to hold the two together. This might help if there isn't clearance to put in a one-piece baffle. I would think you could do it without welding by bolting the two halves together.
Perhaps someone else can suggest appropriate fasteners. My concerns would be...
1 Will the fasteners bind up with the heat? If so they should be installed where they can be reached with some sort of cutter/grinder, soft enough metal that they can be cut, and nutted instead of tapped into the plates.
2 What kind of fasteners will remain strong enough with the heat?
Perhaps there's a metallurgist who can fill in the blanks here...


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## Scotty Dive (Nov 19, 2016)

This is what I did with my mid moe.  I used 1/2 inch plate.  I also added an additional 2 inch wide plate to add more surface area.  Works very well.  Much more heat coming out of the stove.


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## Scotty Dive (Nov 19, 2016)

No idea why the image loaded upside down????

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## apersonnameddan (Nov 19, 2016)

I don't have easy access to thick enough plate, so I built mine with angle iron and firebrick. I did a little experimentation shifting the bricks toward center leaving gaps to the outside, or spacing them evenly leaving multiple smaller gaps. Unfortunately all of my experiments were compromised by an oversized chimney. This year I should get better data with the new insulated liner.
Also noticed while taking pictures that one had been knocked of place.


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## bushman (Nov 19, 2016)

I stuck in a 1/4 steel plate and used a couple firebricks custom cut to Hold the plate next to the air tubes.  So far I have been burning big unsplit All Nighters and this stove impresses me as it smoulders for 1/2 days a log.  It is a creosote generator, no doubt but, I can sweep my pipe every couple weeks and it's fine.  Now that we just went from 70 degrees to 28 degrees in 24 hours let's see how this Mid Moe does.  This fall I bought this Mid Moe and was astounded with the stupid little legs on it so I had my welder cut 10" angle iron at a Fisher taper and now my All Nighter is high stepping.  It's painted in Honey Glo Brown Stove Brite and Satin Black door.


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## bushman (Nov 19, 2016)

Over the years I have ran many different wood stoves cause that's my deal,  just having fun with it.  This All Nighter would stick around for a while EXCEPT for that it does not have a Glass door.  I know that Mid Moe Glo was made so maybe I can find one of them.  Otherwise it's really good to operate and keeps my family in shorts. I just got done with an Alderlea T5 that I rescued from a negligent owner and might just have to try that out for a while to take advantage of my bone dry wood pile.


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## apersonnameddan (Nov 22, 2016)

Scotty Dive said:


> This is what I did with my mid moe.  I used 1/2 inch plate.  I also added an additional 2 inch wide plate to add more surface area.  Works very well.  Much more heat coming out of the stove.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I'm starting to question placing the baffle above the tubes. Your steel one may be fine, but with bricks insulating the top of the tube, and the bottom facing the fire I noticed a glow coming through the louvers. I pulled the louvers to increase the air flow and cool the tubes while closing the vents in the door. This only reduced the glow slightly. After waiting a few minutes I gradually closed the damper (it not blocks about 80℅. After that damper was closed completely it only took a few minutes to cool. 
I'm thinking If the baffle were propped under the tubes this would not have happened. I will be moving the bricks and/or adding a blower to cool the tubes better.


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## bushman (Nov 24, 2016)

My pictures are a little dark but you can see it's just a piece of plate that rests on top of air tube inlet on back of stove. It could be better with some effort by either stacking cut bricks or making a bottom piece to cover the lower area.  Before I came up with fire bricks I was going to try some U bolts to fasten to tubes but, the bricks have been fine.


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## bushman (Nov 24, 2016)

Heres some more


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## Scotty Dive (Dec 11, 2016)

Been burning for a few weeks now....I do use the blower so I don't think I have the issue with the tube getting cherry red.  The stove throws more heat out to the room and it smokes less out the chimney.  That Is critical For My situation Since I have a 30 foot or more clay flue that cools quickly 

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