# Easy, cost effectiver roof option for woodshed (and pics of new build)



## Exmasonite (May 20, 2011)

Hey all, how's it going?  So, finally got around to finishing up the woodshed.  Looking for some advice on the best roofing options.  Pics of the set up are below but it's a pretty basic lean to with non-treated OSB for the roof.  Rafters/joists are 2x4 and 24" apart.  

Now, i consider myself somewhat handy but in all my years of grounds work, amateur carpentry, and home improvement, have never had to do ANY sort of shingling or similar.  Consider it a handyman "blind spot" of mine, if you will.  

For a similar project (cover for hot tub) i've used the corrugated fiberglass panels ( seen here ).  Debated getting some of the treated plywood but haven't been impressed with the longevity even when treated.  In addition, cost and weight of those suckers isn't very desirable.  

Thoughts, opinions on cheapest, easiest option?  (Well, cheapest might be to replace the rotting OSB every couple years but want something a little more reliable than that).

(sorry for poor quality of pics... i think i forgot to wipe off camera phone lens)


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## smokinj (May 20, 2011)

Thats Awesome!


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## Intheswamp (May 20, 2011)

In the long-run I think metal will be your cheapest (and best) choice.  What is it?...10x16?

Ed


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## Exmasonite (May 20, 2011)

Thanks jay!

Keeps the wood < 10' from the house (but the stacks at least 10' AWAY from the wooden house, hehe).  I'll have room to hopefully get ~ 4 cords under cover in the shed (she is 8x16') and have room for a bunch more open air stacks back "behind" the shed where that maple is.  As it is, at least more than a few of those trees in the background are on borrowed time... too tall and close to the house so supply isn't much of an issue (well, aside from being mainly soft maple but hey, it burns!).  

Long term, i'm debtaing extend the roof of the shed and making a "carport" of sorts to allow me to park the truck under there, etc but my local municipality is a bit of a PITA and i'd have to pull a permit to do that.  Plus, the wife isn't thrilled about what it'd do aesthetically for the house (and i have to agree with her there but it's kinda the far side of the house and out of sight/out of mind if you ask me)


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## Exmasonite (May 20, 2011)

Ed- you're right... ceiling is 10x16, the "rectangle" is 8x16

sourcing for metal... lowes/home depot have that sorta thing?


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## Intheswamp (May 20, 2011)

The big box stores should have it.  But, if you can find a metal roofing company you might be able to pick up some scrap pieces, rejects, wrong colors, etc., and save a good bit of money.  A lot of people are going to metal roofs these days so check around.

Ed


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## woodsmaster (May 20, 2011)

painted steel is expensive right now. Here it is $160/square or 10 x 10 area. Galvanized steel is half that price. Corragated panels or rolled roofing is probably cheapest. I would
probably go with galv. You can paint it whatever color you want after it weathers or just leave it.


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## Intheswamp (May 20, 2011)

woodsmaster said:
			
		

> painted steel is expensive right now. Here it is $160/square or 10 x 10 area. Galvanized steel is half that price. Corragated panels or rolled roofing is probably cheapest. I would
> probably go with galv. You can paint it whatever color you want after it weathers or just leave it.


Ditto on the unpainted galvanized if buying new and 1st grade.  I wouldn't worry about painting it and it'll last for decades.

Ed


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## Wood Duck (May 20, 2011)

Why not go with more of the fiberglass corrugated panels, or something similar. There are several choices at your local building supply/big box store. They might not hold up to you walking on them, but you're not likely to do that. I think they will last a long time on the roof and they are cheap. There are even clear ones so you could call it a really poorly designed solar kiln.


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## pen (May 20, 2011)

I'd go with either metal or shingles, whatever I could get the best price on.

Around here, we have building supply warehouses that usually only sell to contractors.  But if you go in w/out asking "how to" questions and have cash, they will sell to anyone.  I'd be up there asking for off colors, wrong length, etc for metal.  But it's usually easier to get shingles.  If you can't see it, the color or even if they match isn't a big deal.  I'd tell them how many square I need and see if they have any end of run deals, broken stacks, etc.

My only concern w/ the fiberglass would be if a branch falls on it, it will crack.

pen


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## kettensÃ¤ge (May 20, 2011)

My shed roof was built with either metal roofing or siding for a roof, not sure which. Framing was built with that in mind so the centers are on 18" and it's just framing and the metal roof, no sheathing. It was there when I bought the house and the roof material was previously used. 

In the spring when the roof is covered with snow but the temps are in the 40's, the underside gets covered with condensation that drips onto the wood, not a big deal for the firewood, but if you have wood sheating and an air space between the wood and metal, you could potentially develop a problem with rot if you don't use tar paper in between or make the spce airtight. 

I like having a roof I can walk on. Is there any place near you where they recycle building materials? maybe you will find some used galvanized siding or roofing that will work.

1 more thing, it is loud during a rain storm and when the acorns are dropping, may be an issue if you locate it close to you're house.


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## smokinj (May 20, 2011)

Exmasonite said:
			
		

> Thanks jay!
> 
> Keeps the wood < 10' from the house (but the stacks at least 10' AWAY from the wooden house, hehe). I'll have room to hopefully get ~ 4 cords under cover in the shed (she is 8x16') and have room for a bunch more open air stacks back "behind" the shed where that maple is. As it is, at least more than a few of those trees in the background are on borrowed time... too tall and close to the house so supply isn't much of an issue (well, aside from being mainly soft maple but hey, it burns!).
> 
> Long term, i'm debtaing extend the roof of the shed and making a "carport" of sorts to allow me to park the truck under there, etc but my local municipality is a bit of a PITA and i'd have to pull a permit to do that. Plus, the wife isn't thrilled about what it'd do aesthetically for the house (and i have to agree with her there but it's kinda the far side of the house and out of sight/out of mind if you ask me)



The whole place looks Awesome, the wood shed looks like it belongs there as well. Nothing like the feeling of living in the forest!


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## ponyboync (May 20, 2011)

Maybe try and get whatever is on your house.  Might be good to match if the cost isn't too much.


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## Exmasonite (May 20, 2011)

well... i'll ask the dumb question then:  How difficult is it to shingle a roof?  As i said, i have ZERO experience doing it.  On paper, it looks relatively easy but am wondering what sort of mistakes or damage i could potentially do.  

Also... time is somewhat of a consideration.  If i could slap up some fiberglass or galvanized panels in an hour or so versus spending an entire afternoon shingling this thing, well that'll make a bit of difference.  Given the option to pick up an OT shift at work could pay for the entire shed and then some.  Given all the wood harvesting I've done and still have to do coupled with all the other house projects, i've started taking a much closer cost-benefit analysis on certain tasks


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## Backwoods Savage (May 20, 2011)

Have you considered a simple rubber roof? I have a small barn that the shingled did not last long so we just put a rubber roof on it. Looks good and so far it is lasting good too. I do not know how long it will last but they put them on flat roofs and they seem to last a long, long time. It is also very easy to work with and much faster to put up too.


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## smokinj (May 20, 2011)

Exmasonite said:
			
		

> well... i'll ask the dumb question then: How difficult is it to shingle a roof? As i said, i have ZERO experience doing it. On paper, it looks relatively easy but am wondering what sort of mistakes or damage i could potentially do.
> 
> Also... time is somewhat of a consideration. If i could slap up some fiberglass or galvanized panels in an hour or so versus spending an entire afternoon shingling this thing, well that'll make a bit of difference. Given the option to pick up an OT shift at work could pay for the entire shed and then some. Given all the wood harvesting I've done and still have to do coupled with all the other house projects, i've started taking a much closer cost-benefit analysis on certain tasks



Would not take long anyway you go. Shingle's is a cake walk (3-4 hours tops). Galvanise would be done in a 1/2 hour though.


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## kettensÃ¤ge (May 20, 2011)

Shingles are easy, but what is the pitch? I think you need at least a 3 in 12 for shingles, you can use rolled roofing for flat or close to flat roofs or the rubber roofing backwoods suggested.
Don't sweat it, it's not habitable space that has electrical and drywall that will get ruined if there is a small leak somewhere. 
Learn as you go, roof shingles have directions on every bundle and you can always search the net. There are no gables, valleys, chimneys, flashing to deal with, it's a simple roof. Biggest thing is to use the right size nails and don't align joints course to course. Architectural shingles are even easier than 3 tab.


Consider a gutter or something to keep dripping rainwater from splashing water and mud onto the firewood on the backside near the ground, it will also help preserve the pallets you're using for the shed floor.


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## pen (May 20, 2011)

picture is worth 1000 words






Often times you will find similar pictures right on the bundle itself.  Architectural shingles cut differently than 3 tab.

pen


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## kettensÃ¤ge (May 20, 2011)

pen said:
			
		

> picture is worth 1000 words
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Nice illustration, just be wary of the measurements shown, I have found there are at least 2 different sizes of 3 tab shingles, 1 I believe is a metric version (34 1/2" long). These are more likely to be sold at Lowes and Home Depot. They are slightly smaller and the exposure (amount showing between courses) is less than standard 36" 3 tab shingles. Use the dimensions on the bundles. Archetecturals are easier because you don't need to worry about keeping the waterways lined up and also, nail placement is less critical. You just have to keep the courses straight and the joints staggered by at least the recommended minimum amount, and there is usually a little less waste.(more important on a bigger job).


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## joefrompa (May 20, 2011)

This is the PERFECT opportunity for you to get comfortable working with shingling. It's cheap, easy to do, and you're doing it on a structure where screwing it up is easy to see and won't harm anything.

I say go with shingles simply because this is a great learning opportunity and one that won't come around often in life. And because they are easier to get up on the roof by yourself than sheet metal 

Also, in a flat roof with no flashing around objects, it's damn near impossible to really shingle the wrong way. It's when flashing gets involved that things get messier for the novice.


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## Dune (May 20, 2011)

Plastic truck bed liners. Get em free off craigs list. Cut the sides off with a skilsaw.


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## lukem (May 20, 2011)

I would either shingle it or get some one-off metal from a local supplier.  Could be a good candidate for rubber (flat roof) as well.  Never used fiberglass so I can't comment.

Don't let shingles intimidate you.  As Joe said, this is about as easy as it gets for shingles.  If you use architectural instead of 3-tab it is even easier.  Since you have already decked the roof, it would be easy.

The pitch is pretty low, so shingles won't last a long time (will hold more water for longer) though.


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## Creekyphil (May 20, 2011)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> Have you considered a simple rubber roof? I have a small barn that the shingled did not last long so we just put a rubber roof on it. Looks good and so far it is lasting good too. I do not know how long it will last but they put them on flat roofs and they seem to last a long, long time. It is also very easy to work with and much faster to put up too.



I think this is the way to go.  You could do the whole thing with one course, and probably pick up leftover materials from Craigslist or a roofing company for around $100.


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## woodsmaster (May 20, 2011)

Rubber roofing is expensive when you factor in glue, rubber, and termination bar. It's to low of pitch for shingles. Peel and stick would be a good option. You just peel a backing off and stick it down. Don't get any easier than that. It is pretty cheap and comes in about 8 colors. I would still go with galvinized steal personally.


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## Creekyphil (May 20, 2011)

woodsmaster said:
			
		

> Rubber roofing is expensive when you factor in glue, rubber, and termination bar. It's to low of pitch for shingles. Peel and stick would be a good option. You just peel a backing off and stick it down. Don't get any easier than that. It is pretty cheap and comes in about 8 colors. I would still go with galvinized steal personally.



I would just run a thin strip of ice and water around then edge, then lay your rubber over the whole roof, then lay strapping around the edge. Nail through the strapping, through the rubber, and through the ice and water.  Or fold the rubber around the edge and it to something underneath. Doesn't have to be fancy.


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## holland_patrick (May 21, 2011)

Wow that's a nice shed you got there.... I would just shingle it and be done with it. 

it not something that you have to get done in a day and for you it should be easy... get some shingles and some nails.. and go to town...


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## woodsmaster (May 22, 2011)

Creekyphil said:
			
		

> woodsmaster said:
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> 
> 
> ...



If you don't glue it it will eventually blow off if it sees much wind.


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## WES999 (May 22, 2011)

If you want something cheap and easy take a look at roll roofing.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

I used it on my shed, 2 rolls were about $60. Not as durable as shingles but it will probably last as long as the shed.


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## Creekyphil (May 23, 2011)

[/quote]

If you don't glue it it will eventually blow off if it sees much wind.[/quote]

We've got several sheds done this way at a family beachfront cottage that sees much more wind than a sheltered structure in inland CT.  5+ years and no problems, don't forsee any in the future.


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## firefighterjake (May 23, 2011)

It may not be as cheap as going with shingles . . . but I would vote for a metal roof of some sort . . . simply due to the snow load that CT has got in the past . . . or say even last year. Given the apparent pitch of this roof, two foot spans and the use of 2 x 4s I would be a bit concerned that a heavy snow load could be the demise of this shed . . . not that CT had any issues last year with snowloads collapsing any buildings, right? 

Shingling is easy . . . as mentioned . . . providing you can follow a straight line, use a tape measure and work a hammer . . . and the cost would be cheaper . . . but I really think in this case you would be better serviced ponying up some extra cash for metal roofing. If price is an issue I would check with some roofing companies to see if they have any left over metal roofing -- you might end up with a rainbow-roof or a Joseph coat of many colors roof, but it would be a bit cheaper than buying from them or perhaps even from buying several sheets at the Big Box stores.

I should mention that my shed does not have much of a pitch . . . and it is shingled . . . but my spans are 16 inches on center, I went with full 2 x 4 walls underneath (and 4 x 6s in the corners and middle of the front and the roof rafters were 2 x 8s (maybe they were 2 x 10s . . . I can't remember) . . . and I can tell you in the winter there is often quite a bit of snow on there . . . I would not want 24 inch spans with only 2 x 4 roof rafters with the snow load I get.


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## woodsmaster (May 23, 2011)

If you don't glue it it will eventually blow off if it sees much wind.[/quote]

When I do somthing I like to do it right the first time so I don't have to do it again later.   Just saying..... I guess If you can get the rubber for free or cheap and dont have the money for glue It might work for a while but I would only do that as a last resort.

We've got several sheds done this way at a family beachfront cottage that sees much more wind than a sheltered structure in inland CT.  5+ years and no problems, don't forsee any in the future.[/quote]


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