# Eko Orlan Model 25 Nozzle Plate



## JTWALL (Apr 15, 2014)

Inspection and results of the nozzle plate I made last fall before the start of the 2013 - 2014 heating season.

Very pleased.  

Video link:


Enjoy!


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## goosegunner (Apr 16, 2014)

Nice job! Thanks for sharing that. I need to try something like that this year.

gg


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## Tennman (Apr 16, 2014)

Very nicely done JT on the guard and video! I think your idea of the row of holes is better than the undersized slot I did this season. My 3/16" plate warped badly in the middle which I attributed mainly to not enough thickness. But now that I think about it, it warped the worst in the middle where the slot was unattached side to side. I'll bet that metal between the holes helps prevent the warping I experienced. But I will also go thicker next season. Those holes have to be better at keeping larger clinkers falling thru also.

I also like your idea of the pins to locate the guard on the nozzle. I sized my plate to be positioned by the end and side ceramics which was often not precisely on the nozzle because of gunk. Positioning on the nozzle opening really makes the size of the guard far less important.

Good job.... gonna be a bunch of guys besides me copying the "JT Guard".


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## JTWALL (Apr 16, 2014)

Tennman said:


> Very nicely done JT on the guard and video! I think your idea of the row of holes is better than the undersized slot I did this season. My 3/16" plate warped badly in the middle which I attributed mainly to not enough thickness. But now that I think about it, it warped the worst in the middle where the slot was unattached side to side. I'll bet that metal between the holes helps prevent the warping I experienced. But I will also go thicker next season. Those holes have to be better at keeping larger clinkers falling thru also.
> 
> I also like your idea of the pins to locate the guard on the nozzle. I sized my plate to be positioned by the end and side ceramics which was often not precisely on the nozzle because of gunk. Positioning on the nozzle opening really makes the size of the guard far less important.
> 
> Good job.... gonna be a bunch of guys besides me copying the "JT Guard".




Thank you for your nice comment.  After what I went through replacing the original nozzle, I had to try and find a way to eliminate/reduce the wear.

The pins will deteriorate over time.  Tip:  Use stainless steel finishing nails.  Drill the locating holes just large enough to allow the nail body to fit snug.  Use a nail set to drive nail head flush...they do not move.  When you need to replace the nail, it will be easy to remove.  I welded them in the first time...big mistake!

The key is to thoroughly stir the coals to remove the ash and to make that small opening in the coals before adding more wood.  
Once the stove is back in run mode, it pops right back into gasification.

The stainless plate is tough to bore through.  If you have a local metal fab shop, they should be able to punch one out for about $30 (that was the quote I got; that included the material).

I made one for another fellow and he used it successfully all winter.  He is burning mainly oak, which has caused accelerated wear on the plate and locating pins.  
The locating pins on my nozzle plate lasted for the entire heating season (their ugly nubs, but they are still there).

Good luck!

JT


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## woodsmaster (Apr 17, 2014)

Im going to try something like that with the holes, this fall when I change my nozzle.


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## JTWALL (Apr 17, 2014)

woodsmaster said:


> Im going to try something like that with the holes, this fall when I change my nozzle.


I hope the nozzle in your boiler will be easier than the one on my Eko.  It was an absolute nightmare!


Good luck.
Thanks for your comment.
JT


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## Tennman (Apr 17, 2014)

LOL!! You've got to have done this to experience the full joy of JT's video.... At least for my 60 I found someone with smaller shoulders than me that was able to kinda get in there and work. After several failed attempts spread over several months.... I beat my nozzle into a bazillion pieces with a hammer and chisel and let the pieces fall into the lower chamber. The BioMass's nozzle is trapped by the side plates...... soooo all top chamber ceramics must come out to put a new nozzle in.

And yes my welding grinder was used to "fine tune" the nozzle so it would drop in. JT... Had I been videoed during my nozzle swap I would not have sounded nearly as tranquil. Great stuff.


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## woodsmaster (Apr 17, 2014)

Wow. I hope mine goes better. maybe I will patch the spot that chipped off, put a steel plate over it, and try to get another year out of it.


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## Tennman (Apr 17, 2014)

WM, since you're running storage there's a good chance you'll have less goop gluing in those side plates than I did after four seasons of idling. When I do it again.... I think I'll have all new ceramics on hand so I can just beat the crap out of everything. Trying to be gentle with delicate, glued in stuff.... well... let's just say the price of all that upper ceramic stuff ain't even close to the value of the time I spent. My advice... try to get the side plates out soon because it's all about the side plates. Took me about 3-4 weeks to recover from each frustrating attempt. But I'm far more experienced now... next time I'm gonna beat the crap out of all of it.


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## infinitymike (Apr 17, 2014)

Just a thought on the nozzle replacement.

I like the bottle jack idea.
Instead of moving it fore and aft, what if you guys cut a 2x4 the length and width of the nozzle and used the jack in the center.
It might spread the lifting load and help get it out.
Just a thought.

And if its any conciliation, the Wood Gun has 2 nozzles, one 12" and one 15" and they are both just as hard to take out.
Theres no way to fit a bottle jack or for that matter anything.

The WG gasification tunnel is just that, a  4" or 5" diameter tunnel.


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## sfriedri (Feb 3, 2015)

Hi JT.  Very nice job on the nozzle plate.  The nozzle on my EKO40 is very worn and I will likely replace it before the next heating season.  It lasted 7 heating seasons, but is now starting to drop too many coals and I think causing increased bridging.

Just curious how your nozzle plate has held up.  Is there any warping occurring?  I was thinking of using thicker stainless, but if your 1/4" plate is not warping then I will not bother.  I have a full machine shop so drilling will not be an issue.


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## JTWALL (Feb 3, 2015)

sfriedri said:


> Hi JT.  Very nice job on the nozzle plate.  The nozzle on my EKO40 is very warn and I will likely replace it before the next heating season.  It lasted 7 heating seasons, but is now starting to drop too many coals and I think causing increased bridging.
> 
> Just curious how your nozzle plate has held up.  Is there any warping occurring?  I was thinking of using thicker stainless, but if your 1/4" plate is not warping then I will not bother.  I have a full machine shop so drilling will not be an issue.



Howdy.  I came up with another nozzle plate design, which I have been using this entire heating season.  It overcomes some of the issues that I had with the thick plate (this one is 1/16-inch thick).  If I find a photo, I will post it for you.  Second year on this nozzle - absolutely no wear.  Just a suggestion, on another post the guy cut fit a piece of rigid foam inside the nozzle then simply repaired the nozzle using castable refractory.  Seems a lot easier (and cheaper) than replacing the entire thing.


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## Eric Johnson (Feb 3, 2015)

I put pressure on the bottoms of my nozzles with a hydraulic jack and then tapped and jacked until they popped out. Tapping inside the slot with a hammer seemed to work pretty well, and it avoids the chance of damaging the refractory.


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## sfriedri (Feb 3, 2015)

JTWALL said:


> Howdy.  I came up with another nozzle plate design, which I have been using this entire heating season.  It overcomes some of the issues that I had with the thick plate (this one is 1/16-inch thick).  If I find a photo, I will post it for you.  Second year on this nozzle - absolutely no wear.  Just a suggestion, on another post the guy cut fit a piece of rigid foam inside the nozzle then simply repaired the nozzle using castable refractory.  Seems a lot easier (and cheaper) than replacing the entire thing.



Thanks JT for the quick reply, and the suggestion about casting the refractory in place.  After several years away from the forum I came back and was reading about how everyone has been dealing with the EKO nozzle wear, and this is one option that I noticed.

Look forward to seeing your re-designed nozzle plate.  Already have lower gauge stainless from other jobs, so using that would be better than buying some thicker material.


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## sfriedri (Feb 3, 2015)

Eric Johnson said:


> I put pressure on the bottoms of my nozzles with a hydraulic jack and then tapped and jacked until they popped out. Tapping inside the slot with a hammer seemed to work pretty well, and it avoids the chance of damaging the refractory.



Thanks for the suggestion Eric.  I have a jack that should be able to fit in the lower chamber, when/if I replace the nozzle.  Have you noticed if the replacement nozzle is more durable that the original nozzle?


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## Eric Johnson (Feb 3, 2015)

I haven't inspected the new ones to see, but judging from the relatively good condition of the 8-year-old ones they replace, I doubt there would be any visible wear after just half a season. However, in the process of grinding down the new ones to fit (a real pain), I noticed that the castings are infused with stainless steel strands, which I don't believe was the case with the older model. I'm going to mosey down to my local metal works and see if they'll fab me up one of those stainless steel nozzle covers. That just makes so much sense.


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## JTWALL (Feb 3, 2015)

sfriedri said:


> Hi JT.  Very nice job on the nozzle plate.  The nozzle on my EKO40 is very worn and I will likely replace it before the next heating season.  It lasted 7 heating seasons, but is now starting to drop too many coals and I think causing increased bridging.
> 
> Just curious how your nozzle plate has held up.  Is there any warping occurring?  I was thinking of using thicker stainless, but if your 1/4" plate is not warping then I will not bother.  I have a full machine shop so drilling will not be an issue.


I made up quick drawing.  enjoy!


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## sfriedri (Feb 3, 2015)

JTWALL said:


> I made up quick drawing.  enjoy!




Much more than a quick drawing... ready to sent out for manufacture (or patent)!  Thanks much.  Curious on the purpose of the vanes.  Are they primarily to help support the bottom of the legs to reduce warping?


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## JTWALL (Feb 3, 2015)

sfriedri said:


> Much more than a quick drawing... ready to sent out for manufacture (or patent)!  Thanks much.  Curious on the purpose of the vanes.  Are they primarily to help support the bottom of the legs to reduce warping?


The vanes do a couple things.  First, they limit the size of charcoal/wood embers that can fall into the lower chamber.  I never get anything larger than a pea...usually just ash.  The second thing they do is to help maintain the shape of the device.  Without them it would warp and heave much more than it does, which is not much.

The finished plate nestles right down into the nozzle; it can't move...it is locked in place by the legs.  You will have to custom-fit each piece, since, like everything else on these Ekos, the tolerances are all over the place!

You'll find that more ash is retained in the upper chamber.  Before adding any more wood,  I use the one stoker to thoroughly stir what remains  to ensure as much ash as possible makes its way through the nozzle plate into the lower chamber.  The vanes keep all larger pieces where they should be - in the upper chamber.

Before installing the nozzle plate, ensure that the area where the nozzle plate rests is clean to ensure that it is not held up off and away from the ceramic nozzle.

One final note.  You might find that it is more difficult to get your unit to gasify/ignite with the plate installed.  What I do is to use the stoker to open a small passageway through the coals to an opening in the nozzle plate. Doing so gives me a 95% chance of quick ignition once the the controller is back in Run Mode.  Repeat the process if it does not ignite within 30 seconds or so.

Good luck!  Let me know how it works for you.

JT


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## Medman (Feb 4, 2015)

Here are some photos of my replacement and plate.





This is the old nozzle.  Note the wood block I used on top of the jack to lift the nozzle out.




This is the jack in place.  and the vacuum nozzle.




The new nozzle from New Horizon.  I had to cut some off of the top of the taper, as others have described.




The old nozzle started to crack as I jacked it up.  A few hits from the hammer and chisel and it broke up.




The new nozzle in place.  I left it just about a 16th proud of the refractory so that the stainless plate would sit properly.




The stainless plate in place.
This is 3/8 thick stainless, 4 inch wide barstock, 20 inches long.  The slot in the middle is 5/8 by 6 inches, cut by the fab shop.  4 1/4 inch stainless bolts are threaded into the plate to center it in the slot. Total cost for the fab work was less than $90, and it seems to work very well so far.


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## sfriedri (Feb 7, 2015)

Built myself up a stainless nozzle guard last night.  Borrowed a little from some of the above designs, so we'll call this design 1.1?

It is built with 3/16 thick stainless and also welded with stainless rod.  The upper portion is formed into a flat "W" pattern to help strengthen it from warping length-wise.  I decided to use two rectangular openings for the nozzle, also to help maintain the nozzle shape.  Finally, I boxed in the area under each of the rectangular openings, which stick down in the nozzle refractory about 1".  These should also help strengthen the nozzle plate, but also hopefully help extend the life of the upper part of the nozzle refractory.

Some pictures below of the nozzle plate, what my nozzle refractory looks like after 7 seasons, and what the nozzle plate looks like in its new home.  I likely will replace the nozzle refractory before the next heating season, and the nozzle plate is built to fit snug inside a new nozzle.


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## easternbob (Feb 18, 2015)

sfriedri,
How's nozzle 1.1 working so far?


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## maple1 (Feb 18, 2015)

I'm curious too - if I scrounge up some 3/16 stainless & some rods, I might be able to cobble something up for mine.


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## easternbob (Feb 18, 2015)

sfriedri,
Looking at your design... I was thinking since I don't have any SS laying around I might buy some SS angle iron and maybe a couple pieces of flat stock to make the ends and also to set the width of the slot. Might work just as good?? and be faster to fab.


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## BoiledOver (Sep 17, 2015)

Howdy @Medman. Are you satisfied with your stainless steel nozzle plate? Do you think the slot dimensions are optimum or could be larger? While at the scrap yard the other day I picked up a piece of 1/2" x 4-7/8" x 56" ss. Kinda heavy but for $1.10 per pound, I like it ok. My current nozzle has 2 and 1/3 seasons (maybe 10 cords) through it and shows some wear, not enough to replace though. How did your replacement nozzle hold up with the plate for cover, any wear at all?



Medman said:


> The stainless plate in place.
> This is 3/8 thick stainless, 4 inch wide barstock, 20 inches long.  The slot in the middle is 5/8 by 6 inches, cut by the fab shop.  4 1/4 inch stainless bolts are threaded into the plate to center it in the slot. Total cost for the fab work was less than $90, and it seems to work very well so far.


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## JTWALL (Sep 18, 2015)

BoiledOver said:


> Howdy @Medman. Are you satisfied with your stainless steel nozzle plate? Do you think the slot dimensions are optimum or could be larger? While at the scrap yard the other day I picked up a piece of 1/2" x 4-7/8" x 56" ss. Kinda heavy but for $1.10 per pound, I like it ok. My current nozzle has 2 and 1/3 seasons (maybe 10 cords) through it and shows some wear, not enough to replace though. How did your replacement nozzle hold up with the plate for cover, any wear at all?


Just my humble opinion, but you can use much thinner stainless steel.  I made one similar and I used 0.062" thick material.  I added 5 or 6 vertical vanes  to keep larger material from falling through.  Occasionally, I will have to replace a vane, but other than that it has held up well. Regards.


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## Medman (Sep 21, 2015)

Boiled Over, my nozzle plate looks just like brand new.  I ran 9 - 10 full cords of maple and oak through the boiler last winter and had excellent performance.  The best part was that the smaller opening meant that I reduced ash cleanout in the bottom chamber by about half.


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## easternbob (Sep 21, 2015)

Medman, No issues with warping? Either side to side or over the length?
I've been using firebricks for a replacement nozzle overlay but your plate looks nicer.


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## Medman (Sep 21, 2015)

There has been no warping so far.  It still sits flat on the top of the replacement refractory. I was concerned that the opening cut in the plate would start to erode and widen but it hasn't yet.


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## rkusek (Sep 21, 2015)

Is there any wear on the bottom of slot for anyone using these plates.  I need to replace mine after 7 years and will definitely add a plate this time to extend  the life.  Wouldn't it have been a better design if the eko had a 2 piece nozzle?  Imagine a wear piece about 8"  long and 3" wide shaped like a T that just dropped into the lower part?  Maybe change every couple years when slot got worn a little?


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## JTWALL (Sep 22, 2015)

rkusek said:


> Is there any wear on the bottom of slot for anyone using these plates.  I need to replace mine after 7 years and will definitely add a plate this time to extend  the life.  Wouldn't it have been a better design if the eko had a 2 piece nozzle?  Imagine a wear piece about 8"  long and 3" wide shaped like a T that just dropped into the lower part?  Maybe change every couple years when slot got worn a little?


If you make a stainless nozzle plate, you will never have to worry about changing the ceramic nozzle again.  Going on 3rd winter on replacement nozzle... still looks like new.   Now, why doesn't Eko do that?
After 7 years, I decided to replace the bearings in the combustion blower...it was not difficult.  $6.00 for bearings versus $125 for a new blower.  Added an electrical quick disconnect so I can easily remove blower motor and support plate when cleaning boiler.
Regards...


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## JTWALL (Sep 26, 2015)

A few pics of another nozzle plate I made today...14 gauge stainless steel, cut, formed and welded.  Note the vertical vanes I added to strengthen the unit and keep larger unburned material from falling through into the lower chamber. Basically, it looks like an old-fashion floor register, eh?   Now, I have two of them; so if one needs repair I can swap it out and keep the boiler operating. Made slightly under-size since it does expand quite a bit when heated.  Ceramic nozzle shown has gone through two full winters and still looks like new since it is protected by the nozzle plate.  Regards.


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## muncybob (Oct 21, 2015)

I'm going to have a plate made, why go with SS? It looks like most of my wood this year will be oak(I'm not complaining!) so should the plate be thick as the original in this thread was or can a thinner one be just as good?


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## JTWALL (Oct 22, 2015)

I have been told that oak is more corrosive and will deteriorate whatever you make the nozzle plate out of quicker.  Plain carbon steel simply can't take the heat generated by the boiler. I don't think a plain carbon steel plate would last a week.  As for the thickness, I have both.  I like the thinner one as shown above.  I have two now, so if one needs repair I simply install the spare.  Good luck!


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## barnartist (Jan 13, 2016)

JTWALL your happy with the results? Why does this work better than the one you made with holes in it? How about you sell me the 2nd one you made??


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## JTWALL (Jan 13, 2016)

barnartist said:


> JTWALL your happy with the results? Why does this work better than the one you made with holes in it? How about you sell me the 2nd one you made??



Since it extends downward, it provides better protection for the nozzle.
It allows the boiler to breath easier.
Suggest using Titanium plate versus stainless steel...I made one similar to one above only used Titanium...is holding up much better.  Got the material of ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/121792813069?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT)  The only downside is that you will need a TIG welder or know someone that has one.
Sorry...I keep the older ones for emergency use.
Good luck!


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## maple1 (Jan 13, 2016)

JTWALL said:


> Since it extends downward, it provides better protection for the nozzle.
> It allows the boiler to breath easier.
> Suggest using Titanium plate versus stainless steel...I made one similar to one above only used Titanium...is holding up much better.  Got the material of ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/121792813069?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT)  The only downside is that you will need a TIG welder or know someone that has one.
> Sorry...I keep the older ones for emergency use.
> Good luck!


 
Interesting.

What is that stuff like to cut & drill? Wondering if I could get a piece & do the cutting & drilling to get pieces ready to put together, then take it to my welding buddy to weld together.


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## JTWALL (Jan 13, 2016)

maple1 said:


> Interesting.
> 
> What is that stuff like to cut & drill? Wondering if I could get a piece & do the cutting & drilling to get pieces ready to put together, then take it to my welding buddy to weld together.


Easy to work with; just like regular carbon steel...just need TIG to weld.


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## JTWALL (Jan 13, 2016)

JTWALL said:


> Easy to work with; just like regular carbon steel...just need TIG to weld.


PS...if you decide to make one of these, leave a 1/16-inch to 3-32-inch total gap between the nozzle plate and the ceramic nozzle.  Why?  The Titanium expands as it is heated and I guarantee the Titanium will win over the ceramic nozzle!


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## maple1 (Jan 13, 2016)

Hmm - expansion?

So - if I were to take a strip of it, and stick the ends of the strip together to make a circle that would fit inside a circular nozzle, then weld that to the flat piece in your picture (after first cutting some holes in the flat piece) - would the expansion of the circle piece pop the welds?


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## JTWALL (Jan 13, 2016)

maple1 said:


> Hmm - expansion?
> 
> So - if I were to take a strip of it, and stick the ends of the strip together to make a circle that would fit inside a circular nozzle, then weld that to the flat piece in your picture (after first cutting some holes in the flat piece) - would the expansion of the circle piece pop the welds?


I have no idea.  Too many variables.  Would depend on the fit, temps, location of weld...phew!  
I do know I made one out of stainless that was too tight front to back.  As it expanded, it had no where to go, so it buckled upward in the center; also chipped the upper edge of the ceramic nozzle...its gotta go somewhere!  Just trying to save you some grief.  Regards.


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## mwk1000 (Feb 6, 2016)

JTWALL said:


> I have no idea.  Too many variables.  Would depend on the fit, temps, location of weld...phew!
> I do know I made one out of stainless that was too tight front to back.  As it expanded, it had no where to go, so it buckled upward in the center; also chipped the upper edge of the ceramic nozzle...its gotta go somewhere!  Just trying to save you some grief.  Regards.





JTWALL said:


> PS...if you decide to make one of these, leave a 1/16-inch to 3-32-inch total gap between the nozzle plate and the ceramic nozzle.  Why?  The Titanium expands as it is heated and I guarantee the Titanium will win over the ceramic nozzle!



Back after a few years of steady burning 8 full cords a season. I had the great idea to make a stainless steel plate to protect my upcoming repair job. Though I would check the forum - a VERY good idea i see.  This is perfect confirmation that it WILL save my ceramic, complete with an evolved design. You guys are great!

My EKO 60 nozzels -  I have never been very happy with the design - back slot wider than the front to many coals drop etc etc., Now it is very worn and time to fix it. As luck would have it my son and I have been playing with refractory mixes and I have SS fibers- adds from an outdoor Pizza Oven DIY as well as the ingredients for refractory.  From those who repaired are they still holding up ? Looking at the replacement part that does not fit I hate to give a company money for something that basically does not work seems easier to cast it in place - a complete new one guaranteed to line up the holes sized any width you want ??

Then I can add the plate on top and forget about it for 10 years .... As you have done maybe keep a spare plate on hand , loved the holes but the slots seem even better. I burn ALL oak full blast to a 1500 gal storage tank. We let the boiler cool and light again - this has NOT been kind to my EKO refractory - With that said any updated recommendations on the guage SS ?

I was thinking on making a good grade refractory probably better than what's in there now - ( http://www.alloyavenue.com/vb/showthread.php?5-DIY-Refractory-Compositions/page1 ) These folks have been playing with a lot of homegrown mixes . Line the sides with wax paper/plain paper  to ensure expansion room foam the holes and slot - pour and cure. Here is a useful example subtracting the foam beads used for insulating:

--Or just buy something like  -- Mizzou Plus Refractory Mix 55# Bag 3000 degree castable from hightempinc on ebay seems to be a good fit and a good deal if you could find it locally ( 60$ shipping - ouch )!



> "A great way to turn your favorite DIY refractory into castable is to add a calcium aluminate cement to it like Secar 71. I get it from hightempinc on ebay. They've got a 10lb bag for about $40 shipped. I mix the Secar 71 at about 1 part in 10 parts per the rest of the mix and it takes a couple of days to harden. My composition consists of even volumes of kaolin ( clay )  and 3 grades of white aluminum oxide I got from a sand blasting place. I then add in stainless steel refractory needles and bean bag foam beads. Without the cement, this mix doesn't work because if you add enough water for it to be fluid enough to fill all the voids, it will crack while drying. Not to mention drying takes more than a week on a large furnace. The calcium aluminate cement really makes lining a furnace easier because you don't have to worry about having too much water in the clay and it cracking.


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## JTWALL (Feb 6, 2016)

mwk1000 said:


> Back after a few years of steady burning 8 full cords a season. I had the great idea to make a stainless steel plate to protect my upcoming repair job. Though I would check the forum - a VERY good idea i see.  This is perfect confirmation that it WILL save my ceramic, complete with an evolved design. You guys are great!
> 
> My EKO 60 nozzels -  I have never been very happy with the design - back slot wider than the front to many coals drop etc etc., Now it is very worn and time to fix it. As luck would have it my son and I have been playing with refractory mixes and I have SS fibers- adds from an outdoor Pizza Oven DIY as well as the ingredients for refractory.  From those who repaired are they still holding up ? Looking at the replacement part that does not fit I hate to give a company money for something that basically does not work seems easier to cast it in place - a complete new one guaranteed to line up the holes sized any width you want ??
> 
> ...


Honestly, I think you should repair what you have installed now; make the nozzle plate out of the titanium I suggested and save yourself the hassle of replacing the nozzle.  I see others have made successful repairs.  Make a solid foam core, pour the refractory in around the worn nozzle.  When cured, melt foam with a torch...install nozzle plate...your done; probably for years!  

I have read that burning Oak is very tough on ceramics.  Good luck.  JT


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## mwk1000 (Feb 6, 2016)

JTWALL said:


> Honestly, I think you should repair what you have installed now; make the nozzle plate out of the titanium I suggested and save yourself the hassle of replacing the nozzle.  I see others have made successful repairs.  Make a solid foam core, pour the refractory in around the worn nozzle.  When cured, melt foam with a torch...install nozzle plate...your done; probably for years!
> 
> I have read that burning Oak is very tough on ceramics.  Good luck.  JT


Yes , I just have no TIG so the SS would actually be easier to keep in service. But yes I will probably try the repair route -- still odd that my back nozzle came wider than my front and I don't see that in the replacements so i was concerned about the longevity of the bond on a thin layer needed to close the width up some. Still you are right  all-in-all easier to do.

In my case I think the repeated cool-hot-cool is the real wear and tear, my blocks underneath are kind of a joke they still LOOK like blocks but each one is in at least 3 pieces  Very carefully I clean out the ash!


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## infinitymike (Feb 6, 2016)

JTWALL said:


> I have read that burning Oak is very tough on ceramics.  Good luck.  JT



Absolutely,  I'm in my 5th winter for heat and finished my 3rd summer for DHW.
Probably, 75% of what I burn is red oak.
I replaced the center nozzle bricks 2 years ago and they will need replacing again.
I also now need to replace the side bricks of the unit, which is a bigger task.


I took all the measurements of the replacement nozzle bricks in hope of casting my own.

After I receive the side bricks, I will template them as well to be able to cast them.

Got to do some research on castable cement.
I really don't this stuff falling apart after I install it.


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## mwk1000 (Feb 6, 2016)

infinitymike said:


> Absolutely,  I'm in my 5th winter for heat and finished my 3rd summer for DHW.
> Probably, 75% of what I burn is red oak.
> I replaced the center nozzle bricks 2 years ago and they will need replacing again.
> I also now need to replace the side bricks of the unit, which is a bigger task.
> ...


The site above has some good grade pre-made refractory, I have been reading up on it since I started the brick oven project. 
ie. Mizzou plus castable or Sparcast LC 32-AL, for example, is a high-alumina castable with all ingredients precisely sized to create a low-porosity, high-strength (modulus of rupture around 3,000psi at 1500F) casting 

My notes are:
Watch for insulating or non-insulating - this application am am figuring for a heat conductive non-insulating type. Insulating flavors all include some way to air en-train the mix saw dust,perlite,diatomacios earth -- whatever.

Mix it yourself:

3 parts - aggregate The Bulk aggregate is Silicon Dioxide ( white sand ) = 3,115 F melting or Aluminum Oxide = 3704 F melting the higher grade refractories use White Fused Aluminum Oxide Sand Blasting Media. ( But I am not sure it is really needed here since we are not over 3000 F and it is 40-75$ a 50# bag + shipping)

1 part cement - Calcium Aluminate Cement CAC  search for Secar 71 Calcium Aluminate Cement Fast acting replacement for portland will not breakdown at high temps like Portland cement. Reduces water content.

1 part lime - Hydrated lime low cost adds strength after exposure to high temperature helps to change structural makeup and blend with clay ( any box store )

1 part fireclay - Puts the ceramic in your refractory reacts at high temperatures to create the true refractory ( Cedar Heights Clay found at a brick yard 25# yelow bag )

430 Stainless Steel refractory reinforcing needles stainless steel fibers when mixed at 3 to 5% addition to your castable give greatly improved structural strength. 10# is enough to reinforce 200-300 lbs of any refractory material

I believe the regular sand version of this would be as good or better than the replacement part, certainly better that the original.

Links: 
http://stores.ebay.com/Abrasive-Arm...832902010&_sid=25807890&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
http://stores.ebay.com/hightemprefractorystore/  ( Premade mizzou and CAC )
http://www.ablerefractory.com/refractoryproducts.htm


Educational:
BackyardMetalcasting.com 
https://www.fornobravo.com/article-series/pompeii-oven/high-heat-mortar-primer/
http://www.artistpotters.com/anagama/castable.htm

Myself I am going to buy the Mizzou Plus if I can find it locally and add steel needles, if not I'll make the Sand home made version since I only need a small amount of Secar 71 to do it.


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