# Antique wood stove hearth requirements



## lamoson (Dec 18, 2016)

So new to the forum, been searching on this a bit. Lots of info but still felt the need to get opinions and more knowledge on the matter. My pops and I built a screened in porch this summer.








Now that the cold has hit we are realizing how awesome it would be with a stove. I got a killer deal on an antique wood stove that's had an older restoration. $250













With a little convincing I got approval from my insurance. Seemed crazy to me that I had to build the porch to code as it were part of the house but when it comes to a stove it was not considered part of the house. Anyways approval was given. 

Now comes the install. I want to put it in this corner about this location. 



The chimney kit and stove pipe shouldnt be much of an issue. The hearth is where the questions come in. The wifey wants a clean look. She likes the sheet metal straight on the floor thing. I just am not sure I can do that. There is no manual for this thing so I have no set R-value to go by. The base gives it at least 10 inches of clearance from the bottom to the floor. I put a fire in it outside and it didn't even melt the snow underneath it. 

For the walls I am planning sheet metal spaced 1" off he wall to reduce my clearances to 18". I was hoping that I might be able to lay down some Duroc maybe two sheets and then have a buddy cut a sheet of steel to lay on top for the stove to sit on. I would then trim it out to look nice.  Or I could build a base first and then do the same. Sort of like this but bigger. 




These are my initial thoughts. Any info or tips on the matter would be greatly appreciated. And my apologies if this is the wrong spot for this. Remember….....Noob. 


These are my 

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## MAD777 (Dec 18, 2016)

Don't know enough to help with the stove, but that's one heck of a porch you & your dad built! 

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## EatenByLimestone (Dec 18, 2016)

That's a coal stove.  Without any documentation stating differently, I think you'll need a r value of 3.  I can't remember default wall clearance to combustibles.


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## bholler (Dec 18, 2016)

EatenByLimestone said:


> I can't remember default wall clearance to combustibles.


36"


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## lamoson (Dec 18, 2016)

[quote uid=751 name="EatenByLimestone" post=2133076]I can't remember default wall clearance to combustibles.[/QUOTE]<br />36"

I think that's correct. And if I am not mistaken if I add the sheet metal with a 1" gap that is reduced to 18". 

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## bholler (Dec 18, 2016)

lamoson said:


> I think that's correct. And if I am not mistaken if I add the sheet metal with a 1" gap that is reduced to 18".


No you can reduce by 2/3 with a proper ventilated heat shield which would get you down to 12"


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## begreen (Dec 18, 2016)

You can reduce the wall clearances down to 12" with a proper NFPA 211 wall shield. This can be made out of metal. The main thing is that it has to have an air gap of at least 1" at the top and the bottom and be open in the back so that air can convect easily behind it. Not sure about the hearth requirements. I haven't heard of a special case for coal. For an unlisted wood stove with 6" or longer legs it's typically K=.84 or R= 1.19. That would be three sheets of Durock NexGen. It can have a metal or tile top if desired. In the NFPA listings below the purpose of the metal top is to stop embers from falling between the cracks separating the bricks. That's not an issue with a solid layer of cement board. 4" of common brick is R=.8 so if you use 3 layers of Durock NexGen I think you would be ok.

*NFPA Hearth info:*
12.5.1.2.1 Room heaters, fireplace stoves, room heater/ fireplace stove combinations, or ranges that are set on legs or pedestals that provide not less than 6 in. (152 mm) of ventilated open space beneath the fire chamber or base of the appliance shall be permitted to be placed on floors of combustible construction, provided the following conditions exist:
(1) The floor under the appliance is protected with closely spaced solid masonry units not less than 2 in. (51 mm) in thickness.
(2) The top surface of the masonry is covered with sheet metal not less than 24 gauge [0.024 in. (0.61 mm)].
(3) The floor protection extends not less than 18 in. (457 mm) beyond the appliance on all sides.

12.5.1.2.2 Room heaters, fireplace stoves, room heater/ fireplace stove combinations, or ranges that are set on legs or pedestals providing 2 in. to 6 in. (51 mm to 152 mm) of ventilated open space beneath the fire chamber or base of the appliance shall be permitted to be placed on floors of combustible construction, provided the following conditions exist:
(1) The floor under the appliance is protected with one course of hollow masonry units not less than 4 in. (102 mm) in nominal thickness.
(2) The masonry units are laid with ends unsealed and joints matched in such a way as to provide free circulation of air through the core spaces of the masonry.
(3) The top surface of the masonry is covered with sheet metal not less than 24 gauge [0.024 in. (0.61 mm)].

The wall shield must extend to at least 6" above the stove top. And don't forget the stove pipe clearance requirement. Single-wall is 18", double-wall stove pipe is 6". You can attach shielding to single wall pipe to reduce the clearance down to 6".
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/wood-stove-wall-clearances-primer.147785/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZQR3Q/?tag=hearthamazon-20


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## lamoson (Dec 18, 2016)

Well im very glad I posted. The 12" clearance will be much nicer. As for the floor I think I will do the 3 layers of durock and then the metal. If insurance puts up a fight I will change it. I'm not gonna fasten the hearth to the floor. Basically make a prefab pad. Thanks all and I'm up for any more suggestions. 

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## begreen (Dec 18, 2016)

If you go for 12" clearance be mindful of the stove pipe clearance requirement too.


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## Ashful (Dec 18, 2016)

Stupid question, but why not just pick up a Jotul 602 or 118 used somewhere?  I'd think you could find one at similar price, and both are modern (relatively) efficient wood stoves with known clearances, good safety records, and a classic / antique look.


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## lamoson (Dec 18, 2016)

Ashful said:


> Stupid question, but why not just pick up a Jotul 602 or 118 used somewhere?  I'd think you could find one at similar price, and both are modern (relatively) efficient wood stoves with known clearances, good safety records, and a classic / antique look.


Well what we really wanted was a modern clean glass front stove. But of course the ones we like are in the 2-3 $k range. Most definitely not in the budget at this point. My boss actually had this one tucked away at the shop. So we figure use this one. It will pump out enough heat (zero insulation in the porcn) and if we really love having it and need the modern look we can save up. 

I looked around at cheaper stoves, but just didnt find one that we liked. 

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## begreen (Dec 18, 2016)

You may be better off with the old stove if the flue is short. Otherwise these stoves are good budget performers. 
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Englander-1-200-sq-ft-Wood-Burning-Stove-17-VL/202051504
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Summers-Heat-2-000-sq-ft-Wood-Stove/999918844


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## bholler (Dec 19, 2016)

lamoson said:


> Well what we really wanted was a modern clean glass front stove. But of course the ones we like are in the 2-3 $k range. Most definitely not in the budget at this point. My boss actually had this one tucked away at the shop. So we figure use this one. It will pump out enough heat (zero insulation in the porcn) and if we really love having it and need the modern look we can save up.
> 
> I looked around at cheaper stoves, but just didnt find one that we liked.


be aware this stove is a coal stove it will put out some heat but it will burn through wood like crazy.  I would expect 2 to 3 hour burn times.


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## Ashful (Dec 19, 2016)

Not exactly your neighborhood, @lamoson, but gives you an idea of what's out there.  This one ended with zero bids.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jotul-602-C...200463?hash=item4b0d36290f:g:Fj8AAOSwux5YPiLZ

Here's another newer, which sold:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jotul-Woodstove-602-B-/232140717238?hash=item360caa3cb6:g:A-QAAOSwXeJYJfAb

If you want to use the stove you have, you'd do better burning coal.  This might be to your advantage, tho.  Most new woodburners really struggle with frustration thru their first two years, trying to burn wet wood.  It simply doesn't work.  You need to split and put up wood 2 - 3 years of when you want to burn it.  So, you could install the stove you have, and burn coal in it the next two years, while working ahead on your 3-year supply of wood.  Keep and eye out for a good deal on a similar size wood stove (Jotul's 602 or 118 would be options), and swap out when your wood is ready.


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## lamoson (Dec 22, 2016)

Built the hearth base last night. Don't be too critical. It was cold and we were going for quick and easy. Tools out to tools away was an hr and a half. 

2x4 base



Ply



And 3 layers of durock alternating directions to overlap seams. 
A little overkill for this heater maybe. 



The base will be covered in steel. Not sure yet if I'm gonna brake the top to bend over the front or just trim out with a piece of wood. 

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## begreen (Dec 22, 2016)

lamoson said:


> And 3 layers of durock alternating directions to overlap seams.
> A little overkill for this heater maybe.


Looks good. With no documentation or experience burning in this stove, let's hope this is sufficient. What will be done for wall and window trim clearances?


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## lamoson (Dec 22, 2016)

begreen said:


> Looks good. With no documentation or experience burning in this stove, let's hope this is sufficient. What will be done for wall and window trim clearances?


Wall will be protected with steel spaced an inch off. Hopefully insurance passes it all. From earlier talks it seems that they will. 

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## KimiBwoah (Dec 22, 2016)

Hey I've got one of those heaters!! Love it for electric heat. Looks like you're going to have a beautiful hearth


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## coaly (Dec 23, 2016)

That's because most jurisdictions have building codes for new construction and many others like electrical, plumbing and mechanical code for heating appliances and their connection.
One correction, it's a coal stove.


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## rwhite (Dec 23, 2016)

I've always been curious since I see quite a few folks get coal stoves and burn wood in them; can you line the bottom with fire brick to slow the burn time?


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## bholler (Dec 23, 2016)

rwhite said:


> I've always been curious since I see quite a few folks get coal stoves and burn wood in them; can you line the bottom with fire brick to slow the burn time?


Yes but that can cause other problems by possibly reducing the air to much.  You are much better just getting a stove designed to work with the fuel you are going to use.


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## begreen (Dec 23, 2016)

lamoson said:


> Wall will be protected with steel spaced an inch off. Hopefully insurance passes it all. From earlier talks it seems that they will.


Should be ok  with insurance as long as it follows the guidelines mentioned earlier in the thread.


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## lamoson (Dec 23, 2016)

Got the base welded up today. Buddy is a metal worker with a rad shop. Sheared an 1/8" sheet with ease.
Welding pics 






I even got to Tig a bit. Did about half of it. That was about 90% of my total Tig time to date. Pretty fun. 




Here is the base and wall pieces set in place. Will try to pick up some spacers tomorrow. 




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## begreen (Dec 23, 2016)

That is pretty rad. Are you going to paint the steel? If not I think it's going to rust.

For the wall shields - they must be 1" above the base and also open on the top. That may mean longer shims that allow the shield to project out in front of the window trim even it it puts them more than 1" from the wall. It's hard to say without being on site with a tape measure. The protection should be 6" above the stove top.


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## lamoson (Dec 26, 2016)

OK wall protection is in place. It is not above the stove top but I am banking on the windows not needing the protection.  Also got a chimney kit and pipe today. This is a mock-up of the plan. Anyone know if these offsets are ok? I also need to pickup a damper. Can I install a damper right in my telescoping pipe? That too would be the plan.


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## begreen (Dec 26, 2016)

The offset is fine. Yes you can add a stove pipe damper. Glass is non-combustible but can be sensitive to heat extremes inside vs out. It may be fine, that's just  heads up. The main unprotected issue is the wood corner support behind the stove.


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## lamoson (Dec 26, 2016)

Yea I figured I might have to add a shield in the corner too. Good thought on the glass. I guess we will see how it does. I also read up a couple of your articles and links on here. Thanks for all the info and content. I am new here and can already tell you put a ton into this place. So again thanks. 

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