# Anyone used this stove pipe thermometer/alarm yet?



## Spinny (Dec 26, 2012)

Hi all, been reading for a while and decided to join.

I was going through threads relating to thermometers and found this setup and thought I would post it. It is made specifically for monitoring chimney stove pipe temps. It was only added to their catalog a month ago so I figured a lot of you probably hadn't seen it yet.

I am building a new house and have a hitzer wood furnace installed and was looking for a way to moniter my flue temp from the main floor and get alerted in case of overfire.

I came across this and plan on buying it. Only thing I don't like is that I would like to hard wire it in to my wiring and I'm not sure how I'm going to do that yet.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=292


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## MnDave (Dec 26, 2012)

Spinny said:


> Only thing I don't like is that I would like to hard wire it in to my wiring


 
Best you can do is put a receptacle near the device and plug the AC adapter into it. That way you can unplug it in the spring so it is not being a parasite on your A/C power.

Under what condition do you think you would overfire skippy?

If you forgot to close your damper?

MnDave


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## velvetfoot (Dec 26, 2012)

It looks one the the thermocouples could be bolted to something.


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## MnDave (Dec 26, 2012)

velvetfoot said:


> It looks one the the thermocouples could be bolted to something.



I think the one with the eyelet is for surface mount. The other is obviously a probe.

MnDave


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## Spinny (Dec 26, 2012)

MnDave said:


> Best you can do is put a receptacle near the device and plug the AC adapter into it. That way you can unplug it in the spring so it is not being a parasite on your A/C power.
> 
> Under what condition do you think you would overfire skippy?
> 
> ...


 
Yes, I have a very tall chimney that will pull a ton of air creating a very hot fire if I leave the pipe damper open. Also, sometimes I have trouble with my pipe damper staying in the closed position. It will sometimes get hot and then gravity and lack of friction will cause it to open again. It can be a dangerous situation because the chimney will pull all that heat very hard against the elbow on the flue as it comes out the side. It will get red hot and could potentially cause a rivet to peel out, the stove pipe would then fall off the side.

It would also be handy to monitor the temp of the fire, alert on overfire, alert on underfire (need fuel).


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## begreen (Dec 26, 2012)

Thanks for posting! And welcome to the forum.

I haven't used one but it looks like a nice compact package. We get a lot of folks asking about this, particularly those that have basement installations. This could be a big help in monitoring a remote stove. They say that the buzzer cord is 3' long, but it can can be extended so that it passes through to the floor above. That's a nice plus. This device also could be useful for insert owners that have no place to attach a thermometer. The user interface is a little geeky, but passable. If you get one please let us know how it works out for you.


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## Sprinter (Dec 26, 2012)

Another alternative would be to buy a PID controller, something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/PID-Digital...089?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc18e5031
There are others available with varying features and prices.

Then get a suitable probe like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-Type-Ther...078?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7cdb2dde

And an alarm like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/110V-AC-22m...577?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19cae87dc1

This takes a little more wiring up on your part, but it's pretty simple to do.


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## troydennis2 (Dec 26, 2012)

I'm using a version of this device. A few months ago I ordered a thermometer with internal alarm from auber. I was using with a thermocouple attached to the woodstove surface with a high temp magnet(saw the idea on hearth.com).  The digital readout of the thermometer was extemely helpful to determine stove performance from a distance of 10-15 feet. I had the alarm set around 700 degrees. High enough that it didn't go off daily but would alert me of a potiental overfire condition. My problem was that the internal alarm was not loud enough to be heard from the woodstove location in basement to the second floor bedrooms. 

So auber offered the solution of a external alarm buzzer that is extendable up to 120 feet. They upgraded my device for a small fee and now offer it specifically for woodstoves/chimneys. 

Pros: 
Device is laboratory accurate. Makes mechanical temp guage look like a toy
High quality device. Has not skipped a beat in months
Digital readout can be seen from 10-15 feet like on couch or just walking by.
Alarm buzzer can be remote mounted 120 feet away. In bedroom or living room etc
Simple to set up and operate.
Draws only a couple watts.

Cons
Have to get creative to measure stovetop temp without drilling. 
Dependent on AC power

I'm sleeping much better knowing this device is keeping watch on the temps.

Btw I have no connection to auber.


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## MnDave (Jan 2, 2013)

Spinny said:


> Also, sometimes I have trouble with my pipe damper staying in the closed position. It will sometimes get hot and then gravity and lack of friction will cause it to open again.


 
Does your damper have a spring on it that is supposed to keep the plate from rotating freely? If there is no spring then I suggest you replace it with one that does. They cost $3.

Maybe your spring has lost its temper? Maybe you could put a new spring on or stretch the old one out a little to create more friction.

Having a monitor is nice but you will want to eliminate that known root cause if possible. You might not be home to hear an alarm.

MnDave


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## Spinny (Jan 3, 2013)

MnDave said:


> Does your damper have a spring on it that is supposed to keep the plate from rotating freely? If there is no spring then I suggest you replace it with one that does. They cost $3.
> 
> Maybe your spring has lost its temper? Maybe you could put a new spring on or stretch the old one out a little to create more friction.
> 
> ...


 
That is good advice. It does have the spring. I think I will try stretching it out a little bit to give it more ooomf.

My experience with my hitzer has been aweful thus far. I am new to wood burning and they give nothing in the way of guidance as far as what to do and what not to do. I overfired it many times from the getgo because they didn't explain the damper at all. Now I have a warped side on it. I think mainly because it went from cold to hot to fast.


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## MnDave (Jan 3, 2013)

Spinny said:


> My experience with my hitzer has been aweful thus far. I am new to wood burning and they give nothing in the way of guidance as far as what to do and what not to do. I overfired it many times from the getgo because they didn't explain the damper at all. Now I have a warped side on it. I think mainly because it went from cold to hot to fast.


 
Is your damper built into the stove? If so, is it in the outlet connector? The reason I ask is that some stoves have a bypass damper which is not the same as a stovepipe damper.

Also, that warpage, if your stove is cast then you could have a gasket leak which will allow excess air in and cause the stove to be hard to control.

Quadra Fire doesn't provide great advise on how to use a stove either. They have a lot of air controls (3). On top of that I have added a stovepipe damper which I cannot say enough good about although QF does not think they are needed. IMO that is absurd.

I have learned a lot by reading posts here and applying that information to my stove. I try different things with the stove... cause and effect.

If you stay with it, you will be giving advise someday too.

MnDave


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## Spinny (Jan 3, 2013)

My stove has 3 dampers. 


on back of stove at bottom. This one is the main air intake that controls the stove temp. It is connected to a bimetal thermostat. Works good but is very slow to adjust to temps at startup
bypass damper. When open it helps to keep the smoke from coming out the front when the door is opened for refilling.
pipe damper
I am in the construction phase of my house right now so I only start it up in the evening when I go to work on the house. I am seeing now that this is not good as the stove/chimney is very cold. If the startup is to fast I feel like it makes the thinner metal box around the stove and the stovepipe want to expand and contract.  At this time of year if I want to use it I think I need to start a very small fire and allow things to warm up very slowly. It isn't ideal for me to run it all the time as I'm not living there and the house is only partially insulated (it would be a lot of wasted wood to run it all the time.)


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## MnDave (Jan 3, 2013)

I can see where this system would be tricky to bring on-line from dead cold.

Do you start with a small dry load and let it burn briskly with all the dampers open?   
MnDave


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## MnDave (Jan 3, 2013)

Spinny said:


> At this time of year if I want to use it I think I need to start a very small fire and allow things to warm up very slowly



Sorry. I missed that.


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## MnDave (Jan 3, 2013)

Yes. That is a lot of metal. Large temperature differences will create more stress.

Maybe you could put an electric heater in the box and have it on a timer.

MnDave


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## MnDave (Jan 3, 2013)

I belong to a snowmobile club that has a wood furnace in their warm-up shack. Anyone can show up and light-er up. I opened the door to the box the other day... talk about warped!

Speaking of snowmobiles... I have a sick one that needs attention. Later.

MnDave


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## Spinny (Jan 3, 2013)

MnDave said:


> I can see where this system would be tricky to bring on-line from dead cold.
> 
> Do you start with a small dry load and let it burn briskly with all the dampers open?
> MnDave


 
Yes. Having all the dampers open helps the fire get rolling much better. I just need to be sure not to give it to much fuel.


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## Bluezx636 (Jan 3, 2013)

I just got mine a week ago based off this thread below. So far I really like it. I have a high temp alarm set so I don't always have to get up to check on my insert it will let me know when its time to start closing primary air control and you can set a low alarm for reloads. Down the road I also plan to hook up the blowers to it to go on incase of an overfire and just to have more control over when they go on and off...
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/digital-led-temp-readout-and-alarm-installed.76244/


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## northernontario (Jan 3, 2013)

troydennis2 said:


> Cons
> Have to get creative to measure stovetop temp without drilling.
> Dependent on AC power


 
I've seen magnets with the thermocouple mounted to it... stick it to your stovetop. I thought Auber sold one.

It's an AC wallwart converting to DC (likely 12v). Simple solution is a 12v battery. If you're worried about power outages and still having the alarm, use the wallwart (or an appropriate float charger) to trickle charge a small sealed 12v battery (lawn mower). Pull power from the battery for the alarm.

I've got a digital display on my stove using a PID controller from Auber. Measuring inner flue temps at ~18" above stovetop. Hooked to the alarm, it's very handy to warn me the stove is heating up and I need to damper it down. Stove lives in the basement, I'm the single dad making dinner upstairs.

I also much prefer the probe measuring inside temps instead of surface temps.  It can take a while for the surface temperature to come up on stove pipe (as displayed on my magnetic coil thermometer)... the probe to digital display is instant. 

Would love if someone would release a wireless version... like the wireless thermometers that display the temp in another room... let me monitor woodstove temps from another room! Soon enough, it'll be feeding directly to wifi and viewable on a smartphone app.


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## MishMouse (Jan 3, 2013)

I use a BBQ therometer attached to a regular magnetic therometer.
Since it has a wireless remote to it I just keep the remote upstairs.


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## northernontario (Jan 3, 2013)

MishMouse said:


> I use a BBQ therometer attached to a regular magnetic therometer.
> Since it has a wireless remote to it I just keep the remote upstairs.


 
What's the range on the thermometer?


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## MishMouse (Jan 4, 2013)

It is only a max of 375 or there abouts. Since it is on my double wall pipe I set it to beep at 350.


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## Treacherous (Jan 4, 2013)

Might have to pick up one of these for the flue.  

I have unit listed in my signature for my stovetop temps.  It's nice to be able to see the temp status from across the room.


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## Gadget (Jan 4, 2013)

I've been wanting something like this.  Glad to know such a device is available. I may have to get one soon.


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## nate379 (Jan 4, 2013)

Had that happen at my friends camp while we were sleeping. Woke up to the whole building rumbling and the stove pipe was so hot it was white and you could darn near see right through it. I'm not sure how that pipe didn't melt or the place burn down!



Spinny said:


> Also, sometimes I have trouble with my pipe damper staying in the closed position. It will sometimes get hot and then gravity and lack of friction will cause it to open again. .


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## Treacherous (Jan 4, 2013)

I went ahead and ordered one.


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## albertj03 (Jan 4, 2013)

This looks like it would work great in combination with my wireless web cam that I use to monitor my stove in the basement.

The wireless web cam works great and let's me monitor the wood stove from my iPhone or my computer from anywhere in the house. Perfect for when you are making dinner or helping kids with home work but need to keep an eye on the stove during startup. The problem is that I have  to keep the lighst on in the basement so I can see the needle on the stove pipe thermometer and I had to wrap the needle in tin foil so I could see it. This would allow me to see an accurate temp without having to keep the light on.


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## begreen (Jan 4, 2013)

I used to use the iMac glossy screen to do this. Acted like a mirror from which I could keep track of the stove. But the iMac was replaced by an new MacBookPro in a new location. I may need to put up a mirror in the iMac's place.


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## Treacherous (Jan 10, 2013)

If you don't need the remote alarm you can go with this cheaper version that starts at $55 depending on the probe type and length.  

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=281

Both units do have built in alarms.  You would hear it fine in the same room but it might not be noticeable from other parts of your house.

I purchased and received the one first mentioned in this thread.


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## Dr. Richards (Jan 15, 2013)

I just received my auberins thermometer today with 4" 1/8" probe.  My question is:  how heigh above my stove top should I install it into the stovepipe?  I was thinking 18".


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## northernontario (Jan 15, 2013)

Dr. Richards said:


> I just received my auberins thermometer today with 4" 1/8" probe. My question is: how heigh above my stove top should I install it into the stovepipe? I was thinking 18".


 
I installed mine at 18" above stove.


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## scooby074 (Jan 15, 2013)

This is a great little all in one device by the looks of it. I plan on building my own, but this is a good looking unit for somebody wanting one stop shopping with little wiring.

For me, I want one with alarm because there has been times the stove damper has been left fully open for too long and the stovepipe has gotten quite hot.


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## Dr. Richards (Jan 17, 2013)

What should I set the high temp alarm at?  i.e. at what temp should I close the damper?  It defaults at 900 for a high alarm.  I was thinking around 1000??


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## northernontario (Jan 17, 2013)

Depends a lot on how quickly the flue temps rise up.  I can have flue temps up to 1100F and the stove is still fairly "cool" (if starting from a cool/cold stove), and throttling back too much will knock the fire down.  It'll depend on your stove and how it reacts.  My smaller stove I ran the alarm at 1200F, my new larger stove I set the alarm for 1100F.  Keep in mind these are flue gas temps... not pipe surface temps.


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## Dr. Richards (Jan 17, 2013)

I contacted Englander today and asked them based on my stove model (30-NC) and my temp probe at 18" above collar, what do they recommend for operating flue temps.  They replied between 400 and 700, anything above 700 would be getting too warm.  They also said it is not uncommon for temp to drop below 400 on low burns.  Based on these numbers I have been burning way too hot and wasting wood.  I found out my Rutland was about 700 degrees off (threw that away).  I am going to need to be closing my damper much more as this stove likes to go up to 1100 fast.  Wished I had known this sooner as I have already burned over 2 cord.


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## Treacherous (Jan 17, 2013)

Actually it has audible high and low alarms.



scooby074 said:


> For me, I want one with alarm because there has been times the stove damper has been left fully open for too long and the stovepipe has gotten quite hot.


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## northernontario (Jan 17, 2013)

I would question the response of 400-700f for flue temps.  I'm measuring about 800F and climbing before secondaries ignite.  Need to get the wood up to temp and the secondary air up to temp before that combustion will occur...  Then you can start throttling down. Eventually you will cruise from 400-700... but not on startup.


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## Treacherous (Jan 19, 2013)

Got a real chance to use this new probe this weekend.  I like it. I'll keep the Rutland probe around for power outages but seems to work well.   Quick response to changes in temp as well.


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## Treacherous (Jan 20, 2013)

I've had a digital monitor for stove surface temps for a while now.  I wish I had gotten one sooner for the flue.  It's really nice to see in almost real time the changes that take place with primary air adjustments.  It really shows the impact of an extremely minute air adjustment.


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## Dr. Richards (Jan 21, 2013)

Mine started throwing error codes already (only had for 2 days).  Contacted auberins and they've already got another one on the way.  I think they are pretty delicate but very cool.  Oh, and northernontario, I agree.  I throttle mine back at 900 (on a reload) and higher on a new fire.


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## Treacherous (Jan 21, 2013)

I'll have to keep an eye on mine.  I gave it a good 3 day run.  



Dr. Richards said:


> Mine started throwing error codes already (only had for 2 days). Contacted auberins and they've already got another one on the way. I think they are pretty delicate but very cool. Oh, and northernontario, I agree. I throttle mine back at 900 (on a reload) and higher on a new fire.


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## northernontario (Jan 22, 2013)

Dr. Richards said:


> Mine started throwing error codes already (only had for 2 days). Contacted auberins and they've already got another one on the way. I think they are pretty delicate but very cool. Oh, and northernontario, I agree. I throttle mine back at 900 (on a reload) and higher on a new fire.


 
Strange that it's throwing codes.  On my home-built alarm (using an Auberins digital PID controller and alarm/flasher), I've been running it almost constantly for I think two years now.  No issues.


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## mellow (Jan 23, 2013)

I was going back and forth between this and the Condor cat probe,  the only issue I see with this one is if the probe with the ceramic will fit into my existing hole for my cat probe?

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=282


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## HaTaX (Jan 23, 2013)

That's a pretty slick little device, there's only one thing I'd like that's a little different, the ability to monitor or switch between two temperature probes.  It would be great to place the eyelet one for monitoring the stove top temps, and then the probe to monitor flue temps, one place to go for all your temps!

Then of course the nerd in me asks why we can't find one of these that will hook to wifi and send an email out. :D


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## mellow (Jan 23, 2013)

HaTaX said:


> Then of course the nerd in me asks why we can't find one of these that will hook to wifi and send an email out. :D


 
http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=ISD-TC&Nav=dasc01

If you have a spare $500 sitting around you can have that,  someone needs to do a kickstarter for something like this in the $100 range.


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## Treacherous (Jan 26, 2013)

I use this other Auberins PID to monitor the stove top temps.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/digital-led-temp-readout-and-alarm-installed.76244/




HaTaX said:


> That's a pretty slick little device, there's only one thing I'd like that's a little different, the ability to monitor or switch between two temperature probes. It would be great to place the eyelet one for monitoring the stove top temps, and then the probe to monitor flue temps, one place to go for all your temps!
> 
> Then of course the nerd in me asks why we can't find one of these that will hook to wifi and send an email out. :D


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## turbocruiser (Jan 27, 2013)

mellow said:


> http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=ISD-TC&Nav=dasc01
> 
> If you have a spare $500 sitting around you can have that, someone needs to do a kickstarter for something like this in the $100 range.


Yes this is exactly the model that I've been drooling and drooling about but somehow I suspect after the novelty of all the graphing and testing and tracking wore off I'd go back to basically just using it as a high/low alarm which the Omega DP7000 does for a fraction of the cost.  Still this would be so super sweet and would probably allow me to use the stove while I was at work  but $500 is absolutely insane.  The problem with the DP7000 though is that it is only going to go up to 999F and while that would probably work very well for stovetop surface temps I don't think it would work well for a flue install?  Anyway if money were no object I'd opt for this in a split second.


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## Lance (Jan 27, 2013)

Turbocruiser, could you take a picture of your setup of the Omega DP7000. Please explain where and how you set that up.


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## Treacherous (Jan 27, 2013)

You could always pick up one of the $80 Foscam cameras and point it at one of the less expensive probe options.  They have a mobile interface that works well on IOS and Android.









turbocruiser said:


> Still this would be so super sweet and would probably allow me to use the stove while I was at work but $500 is absolutely insane. The problem with the DP7000 though is that it is only going to go up to 999F and while that would probably work very well for stovetop surface temps I don't think it would work well for a flue install? Anyway if money were no object I'd opt for this in a split second.


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## turbocruiser (Jan 27, 2013)

Lance said:


> Turbocruiser, could you take a picture of your setup of the Omega DP7000. Please explain where and how you set that up.


 
I'm sorry for any confusion I caused but what I was trying to write was that I'm trying to decide on exactly which way to go for a temperature alarm for the stove.  Right now all I'm actually using is a regular stove top surface thermometer and a Laser IR thermometer to tell the temps.

What I've wanted all along was a temperature alarm with at least a high temp alarm and preferably one with high temp and low temp alarms.  Then I started thinking that it would be cool to have something setup to either email me or text me a message that would tell me my alarm went over whatever setpoint I setup even if I was away for awhile with stove still on.  That led to the iSD-TC that Omega sells which seriously has some amazing functionality to it.   

So I've scrubbed all around on several sites to find the best way to work this and although I keep drooling and drooling over all the functionality the iSD-TC has, I keep going back to the DP7000 (which is like 80-something dollars) combined a length of K type thermocouple which would be surface mounted on top of the firebox.  That would give me my alarm functionality at least as long as I was within earshot or eyeshot of the unit itself. 

Then I start thinking that it would be cool to measure the stove top as well as the stove pipe and then that would require two of the DP7000s and even then they top out at 999F if I remember right so that probably isn't the ideal range for an alarm for the stove pipe and then we're talking about $200 bucks instead of $100 bucks and I simply start shaking my head at how fast my imagination costs money! 

So as you can tell I'm sort of stuck between too little / enough / too much in terms of the options and the prices but I don't currently have anything other than the two ways to measure temps and no alarm.


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## scooby074 (Jan 27, 2013)

Guys, I thought about the Auber... But I decided on building my own. I can build nicer for less (or equivalent) since it's kinda what I do.

I bought the same buzzer as Auber, and the same probe. I'm using the popular Rex C-100 for the PID. Im going to have 2 PID in one enclosure, one for Stove pipe and one for stove top. Im likely going to use a Hammond aluminum 1455T1601BK as the enclosure.

I'll do a build thread once Ive gathered all the stuff, could be 3 weeks or maybe more. Slow boat from China.


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## Treacherous (Jan 27, 2013)

Those Rex C-100 PIDS sure are dirt cheap on eBay.


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## turbocruiser (Jan 27, 2013)

scooby074 said:


> Guys, I thought about the Auber... But I decided on building my own. I can build nicer for less (or equivalent) since it's kinda what I do.
> 
> I bought the same buzzer as Auber, and the same probe. I'm using the popular Rex C-100 for the PID. Im going to have 2 PID in one enclosure, one for Stove pipe and one for stove top. Im likely going to use a Hammond aluminum 1455T1601BK as the enclosure.
> 
> I'll do a build thread once Ive gathered all the stuff, could be 3 weeks or maybe more. Slow boat from China.


 
Wow I will really look forward to this thread!  That would be exactly what I want.


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## scooby074 (Jan 27, 2013)

Treacherous said:


> Those Rex C-100 PIDS sure are dirt cheap on eBay.


 
Sure are!! Compared to the PID's I'm familiar with... they are almost too cheap to be true!


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## scooby074 (Jan 27, 2013)

turbocruiser said:


> Wow I will really look forward to this thread! That would be exactly what I want.


 
Yeah.. I think a lot of people could use it.. There are a few of these Rex powered thermometers out there, but no real shots of the internals or how to build one.


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## WES999 (Jan 27, 2013)

> Guys, I thought about the Auber... But I decided on building my own. I can build nicer for less (or equivalent) since it's kinda what I do.
> 
> I bought the same buzzer as Auber, and the same probe. I'm using the popular Rex C-100 for the PID. Im going to have 2 PID in one enclosure, one for Stove pipe and one for stove top. Im likely going to use a Hammond aluminum 1455T1601BK as the enclosure.
> 
> I'll do a build thread once Ive gathered all the stuff, could be 3 weeks or maybe more. Slow boat from China.


 
Umm... You may want to rethink using the REX C-100,  according to the posted specks  it only reads up to 400
750. The price is cheap enough but the limited upper range is a problem.
It may be just adequate for stove top monitoring, but unacceptable IMO for flue temp.

I like your idea for using one enclosure, one of days I would like to put all of my controls in one box.
I currently have 2 enclosures on the wall, one for flue and one stove top, and a third on the floor for the timer for the auto air control

Consider the Model: SYL-1512A from http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=14.

Reasonable price, plenty of range and has alarm mute function that is very nice.


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## scooby074 (Jan 27, 2013)

WES999 said:


> Umm... You may want to rethink using the REX C-100, according to the posted specks it only reads up to 400
> 750. The price is cheap enough but the limited upper range is a problem.
> It may be just adequate for stove top monitoring, but unacceptable IMO for flue temp.
> 
> ...


 
I think that the 400*c max temp is only listed because that is the max temp that the included thermocouple can go to .

I checked the instructions, and with the proper thermocouple, it should be able to read over the 1300*C that the probe Im using  maxes out at. Looks like with the proper thermocouple, the unit itself maxes out at 2320*C... I hope

http://www.rkcinst.co.jp/english/pdf_manual/imnzc17e3.pdf


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## WES999 (Jan 27, 2013)

> I checked the instructions, and with the proper thermocouple, it should be able to read over the 1300*C that the probe Im using maxes out at. Looks like with the proper thermocouple, the unit itself maxes out at 2320*C... I hope


 
I disagree, I checked the manual, as I read it, the range is fixed by the part number the "02" after the "K"
seems to indicate fixed range of 400. You will fin out soon enough.

BTW consider this, it will allow you to mute the alarm, a worthwhile feature.


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## Treacherous (Jan 27, 2013)

Looks like this lower cost one is no longer available but you can buy the original unit in thread without the remote sensor.  It seems price is now about $15 cheaper than when I ordered mine as well when configured with probe and remote alarm.



Treacherous said:


> If you don't need the remote alarm you can go with this cheaper version that starts at $55 depending on the probe type and length.
> 
> http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=281
> 
> ...


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## scooby074 (Jan 27, 2013)

WES999 said:


> . You will fin out soon enough.
> .


 
Yeah I will...

There is quite a hacker community for these controllers. From what I understand, there is a hidden menu that allows you to change thermocouple info. You can also change it to read in *F.  Worse case is I cant make it work for the stovepipe... If  so, Ill order another one that will work and keep it for something else.. It was only $17.00


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## turbocruiser (Jan 28, 2013)

turbocruiser said:


> Then I start thinking that it would be cool to measure the stove top as well as the stove pipe and then that would require two of the DP7000s and even then they top out at 999F if I remember right so that probably isn't the ideal range for an alarm for the stove pipe and then we're talking about $200 bucks instead of $100 bucks and I simply start shaking my head at how fast my imagination costs money!


 
I may have made a mistake on something I said above ... the DP Series can be ordered in F or C and according to the info sheet the Celsius model reads up to 999 degrees C which would be plenty (hopefully) for both the stove top and the stove pipe.  I think they're just saying that the display is only three digits to work within but 999 C would work fine for our application.  Still using two of these will still be pretty pricey. 

http://www.omega.com/pptst/DP7000.html


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## Dr. Richards (Jan 29, 2013)

Well I got my new Auberins thermometer (new probe and digital box) to replace the one that was giving EEEE errors and wildly fluctuating temps only to find the new one is doing the same thing.  I contacted auberins and they are not sure why it is doing this, suggested maybe electromagnetic interference but I can't seem to figure it out.  Most times it works fine and then sometimes it just shows EEEE or wildly inaccurate and even negative readings.  They haven't receive the old one back yet to test it but gave me a code to enter under settings that is supposed to filter interference.  Haven't done it yet so not sure if it works.


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## Dr. Richards (Feb 1, 2013)

Got my reply from Auberins, apparently the chimney probe is only good up to 1100F, if it goes much higher it ruins it.  Here is there reply:

"We received the return. The problem is the probe. The wire inside was broken. Based on the oxidation of the probe surface, we think the probe has been exposed to 1300 F and may be 1500 F for some time. I talked to our engineer. Our conclusion is that current design is not good for continue use above 1100 F. We are going to make a new probe that can be operated at 1500F continuously.   It will take 10 days before we can finish it. I will send it to you as soon as it is ready. We will increase the diameter of the probe, which also increase the durability of it. 
 I am interest to know that for your application, what will be the ideal operation temperature range and what is the maximum temperature the probe might expose to?  For the K type thermocouple sensor (the most common and economical type), there are four grades, in terms of maximum operating temperature. The common grade is only good for 1100F continuous operation. The next level is good for 1500-1600F. The probe has mineral filler in the tube to reduce the oxidation. The next level is the probe with special nickle alloy for 2000F. The highest temperature probe is with ceramic probe that is much more bulky. The cost of the probe follow the temperature rating."


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## Treacherous (Feb 1, 2013)

I will have to keep an eye on mine.  Mine hasn't been exposed to anything over 900 degrees so far IIRC.


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## WES999 (Feb 2, 2013)

I have been using this one: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_3&products_id=22

It is the sold on the Auberins website and it is rated for 2000. The highest temps I have seen is about 1100.
It is working just fine.  I wonder why they don't use this one with their chimney monitor alarm.


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## Treacherous (Feb 2, 2013)

Or maybe this one since there is a 4 inch version?

It is rated at around 1800 degrees.  





WES999 said:


> I have been using this one: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_3&products_id=22
> 
> It is the sold on the Auberins website and it is rated for 2000. The highest temps I have seen is about 1100.
> It is working just fine. I wonder why they don't use this one with their chimney monitor alarm.


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## Treacherous (Feb 4, 2013)

My probe has been working fine but asked about this new probe in development just in case.

Their response:

"The statement for "1100F' was a mistake. After more research and talked to the thermocouple manufacturer, we found out there is no such thing as 1100F probe if the thermocouple is made with 304 stainless steel sheath. Unless the probe contains plastic components, a K type thermocouple with 304 stainless steel sheath will work up to 1650F. Please see this link. http://www.omega.com/techref/themointro.html

The reason for  that customer to has two probes broke is still not clear.  The damage looks very strange from the outside and inside. It can't be explained by the common causes of the sensor failure (we sell more than tens thousands of various thermocouple annually). The appearance looks like it has been exposed to much higher temperature than the 1300F. Normally, 304 stainless steel will have a yellow tan when exposed to temperature below 1600F. The oxidation normally happens at >1500F, unless it is exposed to some strong reducing agent.  We are still waiting for the second probe to come back for examination.

The probe you purchased carries 1 year warranty. If it breaks anytime during the warranty, we will replace it for you."


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## scooby074 (Feb 4, 2013)

Not all thermocouples are created equal. When searching, particularly eBay, you will see that paobably 90% of the "cheap" thermos in auction are only rated to 450*C, even though they are made of "stainless".

Its very possible that these Auber units are burning up. Just because Omega lists 1650*F as max temp, doesnt mean that ALL stainless thremos are suitable for 1650. It just means that the sheath is potentially good to 1650 and after that you need to go to the next material, like Inconel.

Then there is this quote from Omega, " Be aware, however, that sometimes the probe sheath cannot withstand the full temperature range of the thermocouple type."

Is Auber using Omegas? Or Chinese clones? If the latter, the quality can certainly be expected to be all over the place, which explains why it's only some that are having problems. If history is any indication, Chinese "stainless" could very well be lead


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## Dr. Richards (Feb 5, 2013)

Yeah, they carbon copied your e-mail and their response to me.  I am still waiting for the shipping label to send my second probe back in for autopsy.


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## granpajohn (Feb 5, 2013)

begreen said:


> .... I may need to put up a mirror in the iMac's place.


 
An ordinary mirror?
I suppose next you'll be using those little cardboard things with the hearts, spades, diamonds, and clubs to play Solitaire with.


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## scooby074 (Feb 28, 2013)

WES999 said:


> I disagree, I checked the manual, as I read it, the range is fixed by the part number the "02" after the "K"
> seems to indicate fixed range of 400. You will fin out soon enough.
> 
> BTW consider this, it will allow you to mute the alarm, a worthwhile feature.


 
My build is finished. There is indeed a hidden menu. These Rex C-100 PIDs will read over 400*C out of the box however the display blinks to warn you that you are over the Default "max" setting. I believe these units are factory set at 400 because that is what the TC's that come with them are rated at.

Ive changed the "hidden" SLH (high limit) parameter to 1250*C to match the high temp TC I have for my stack. This enables you to have a display that is not blinking (in alarm) and have a SV higher than 400*C.

More info in my build thread https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/my-digital-stovepipe-thermometer-build.105401/


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## turbocruiser (Feb 28, 2013)

scooby074 said:


> My build is finished. There is indeed a hidden menu. These Rex C-100 PIDs will read over 400*C out of the box however the display blinks to warn you that you are over the Default "max" setting. I believe these units are factory set at 400 because that is what the TC's that come with them are rated at.
> 
> Ive changed the "hidden" SLH (high limit) parameter to 1250*C to match the high temp TC I have for my stack. This enables you to have a display that is not blinking (in alarm) and have a SV higher than 400*C.
> 
> More info in my build thread https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/my-digital-stovepipe-thermometer-build.105401/




That looks terrific, thanks for sharing this stuff with us


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## Treacherous (Mar 22, 2013)

Mine is still working great. No problems here. I feel like I can push my stove a little harder using this flue thermometer. The ability to get real time readings to primary air changes is nice.




Spinny said:


> Hi all, been reading for a while and decided to join.
> 
> I was going through threads relating to thermometers and found this setup and thought I would post it. It is made specifically for monitoring chimney stove pipe temps. It was only added to their catalog a month ago so I figured a lot of you probably hadn't seen it yet.
> 
> ...


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## scooby074 (Mar 22, 2013)

turbocruiser said:


> That looks terrific, thanks for sharing this stuff with us


Your welcome!

What kind of temps are you guys shooting for on your pipe internal temps?

I shoot for around 400-500*C (752-932*F), with the alarm set for 530*C (986*F)

Right now the stove is cruising along at 396*C (745*F) on the stovepipe and 158*C (316*F) on the stove top.. STT seems low, but I wonder if that is due to the TC and how it reads (good thermal contact???) ? IR on the top in the same area is 200*C.. 6 inches in towards the pipe, and I'm up to 300*C (575*F) on the IR. Magnetic stovepipe thermometer on the top reads pretty much in between the TC and the IR. Hmm...kind of all over the place.

I think I'm going to order a stick on TC pad next year to see if I can get more accurate STT.

Whats up with the hot spots anyways? you'd think that the STT would be relatively consistent from side to side after the stove has been running for a while?


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## Treacherous (Mar 22, 2013)

I try to run in 650-750F (343-398C) range in the flue.   This keeps my stovetop in the 400-550F (204-287C) range.


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## Lance (Mar 23, 2013)

I set up using the
Auberins SYL-1512A2 PID, my readings have been about the same. STT425-550F and Flu at 500-950F. I have the SST set to turn the fan ON at 400F / OFF at 350F. I seem to have gotten a better burn rate using the PID's. Better control.​
​


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## Treacherous (Feb 15, 2014)

Wife reloaded stove while I was in shower and it took off a little faster than she expected.  Alarm did it's job at 1000 degree flue alert setting.


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## DougA (Sep 28, 2015)

I-BURN-WOOD said:


> I must disagree with last post. I strictly monitor my flue pipe temp more than the hotter flue gas.


This is an older thread but since you brought it up, the idea of monitoring the flue gas is that pipe is made to handle a certain temperature. I've personally watched my probe skyrocket an extra 600 deg in a matter of 15 seconds.  That is exactly what you want an alarm for in the flue gases.  When your stove goes into overdrive, most people remain blissfully unaware of the extreme danger because a surface thermometer on a stove or a double wall pipe may take many minutes to react. A digital probe in the flue gas is instant.  


I-BURN-WOOD said:


> Gas temp fluctuates too much


  That's exactly the point. If your flue temps go over 1500, you had better react fast or your pipe and chimney are in danger.
These are the specs for my double wall Ultra Black:
Max Continuous 650°C (1200°F)
Brief Forced Firing 925°C (1700°F)
Tested To 1150°C (2100°F)
We've had this discussion before and I will bet the farm that there are a lot of people who have had their stove pipe well into the danger zone and had no clue how hot it was.  It wasn't until I installed my Auber unit that I began to understand the reality.


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