# cab 50 problems



## coldinmich (Jun 9, 2013)

Bought a cab 50 in nov and had problems since day one. Likes to shut down a lot, leaving the house very cold. I was told it may be the hopper lid switch. Where can I get a parts catalog to order parts.
  Also, tons of ash. I can burn one bag and the firepot has lots of ash and needs cleaning. I have tried different types of pellets and always the same.


----------



## smwilliamson (Jun 12, 2013)

Bypass the lid switch and try it out.


----------



## Lousyweather (Jun 13, 2013)

dang, my friend, where is the dealer here? that should be covered UNDER WARRANTY at no cost to you.....


----------



## saladdin (Jun 14, 2013)

CAB50s are new. So if you fix the problem come back here and post it. There are a few cab owners here that may be able to use the info later.


No issues with mine (one self-inflicted wound) , just finished 2nd year.

Call dealer.

Try to bypass the lid switch. If that doesn't work answer these:

When does it shut down? After initial pellet drop?

What state is it in when it shuts down? Fresh unburnt pellets in the pot? Ashe over flowing the pot?

Tested your door rope? This is what caused my self inflicted wound. I did the washer trick and it cured it.

How much is "a lot of ash"? Take a picture. Mine gets the hard build up and I scrap it once a week but I rarely see any true ash.

What does your window look like? Clear?

Have you witnessed the shutdown and hit the reset button on back? Did that fix it?


----------



## smwilliamson (Jun 14, 2013)

If you have had problem since day one...I wonder if your thermostat or T-stat connections are to blame. Try bridging the T-stat terminals on the back of the unit and see if it will start up and endlessly run.


----------



## coldinmich (Jun 23, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> dang, my friend, where is the dealer here? that should be covered UNDER WARRANTY at no cost to you.....


   warranty is not worth the paper it is printed on. when I called the 1 800 number in the owners manual I was told I had to do the repair work.


----------



## imacman (Jun 23, 2013)

So let me get this straight.....you got the stove, had problems right away, and you didn't get the dealer to come out to fix it?

And this is the phone # you called?  1-877-427-3316


----------



## Lousyweather (Jun 24, 2013)

crazy, but on page 4 of your manual (the warrantee), it includes labor in the warranty. Not travel time tho


----------



## smwilliamson (Jun 24, 2013)

coldinmich said:


> warranty is not worth the paper it is printed on. when I called the 1 800 number in the owners manual I was told I had to do the repair work.


But it is. Call the attorney general.


----------



## smwilliamson (Jun 24, 2013)

Did you buy this Cab 50 used?


----------



## jtakeman (Jun 24, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> dang, my friend, where is the dealer here? that should be covered UNDER WARRANTY at no cost to you.....


 


coldinmich said:


> warranty is not worth the paper it is printed on. when I called the 1 800 number in the owners manual I was told I had to do the repair work.


 


imacman said:


> So let me get this straight.....you got the stove, had problems right away, and you didn't get the dealer to come out to fix it?
> 
> And this is the phone # you called? 1-877-427-3316


 


Lousyweather said:


> crazy, but on page 4 of your manual (the warrantee), it includes labor in the warranty. Not travel time tho


 
Not all cab's are sold at dealers. They are also available at the boxstores and internet houses IIRC. So like the other box store brands I believe the owner assumes the repair. But Heatalator should supply the parts like the other box brands?


----------



## Lake Girl (Jun 25, 2013)

Parts manual:
http://hearthnhome.com/downloads/serviceParts/ECO-CAB50.PDF

Service manual:
http://hearthnhome.com/downloads/communications/ECO PELLET_consumer_serv_man.pdf

Hope this helps you ... just realized the other day that the manufacturers of Harman are the same as Heatilators and Quadra-Fires ... Hearth & Home Technologies.  Likely a lot of you folks knew this but I didn't http://hearthnhome.com/brands/index.asp


----------



## Lake Girl (Jun 25, 2013)

Do you have an OAK installed?

From the manual:

IF ANY PART OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM IS RESTRICTED, THE STOVE WILL BURN DIRTY WITH TALL LAZY FLAMES. THE STOVE MAY ALSO EXPERIENCE PROBLEMS WITH LIGHTING THE PELLET FUEL DUE TO THE REDUCED AIR FLOW THROUGH THE FIREPOT.

IF ANY PART OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM IS BLOCKED, THE STOVE WILL NOT FEED BECAUSE THE VACUUM SWITCH WILL NOT ENGAGE. NORMALLY THE STOVE WILL HAVE BETWEEN .08 TO .16 INCHES OF WATER COLUMN IN THE FIREBOX WITH STOVE SET ON THE HIGH FEED RATE.



Follow the exhaust path and make sure it's clean


----------



## Lousyweather (Jun 25, 2013)

jtakeman said:


> Not all cab's are sold at dealers. They are also available at the boxstores and internet houses IIRC. So like the other box store brands I believe the owner assumes the repair. But Heatalator should supply the parts like the other box brands?


 
sure, once to "problem" is diagnosed (and if ya Big Boxed it, far as I am concerned, yer on yer own) ........I guess we are waiting for the OP to tell us where he or she got it?


----------



## SmokeyTheBear (Jun 25, 2013)

Rough crowd not a single Welcome to the forums.

Welcome coldinmich, it appears that folks are snapping at the bit, they don't get a lot of burn issues this time of the year.

Could you please provide a list of the pellets you have tried along with a detailed part by part list of the exhaust system.

There is also a piece of metal that can be used to block off part of the air intake (under the burn pot) this should normally be fully open or completely removed and hopefully sitting somewhere in the area under the burn pot.

From your description it sounds like you have an air flow issue.  There are a number of CAB owners on here and if you answer their questions I'm certain you will be burning fine.


----------



## Lake Girl (Jun 25, 2013)

Smokey's right - welcome to the forum coldinmich

If you were having problems, why didn't you drop in sooner

Search the forum for other issues with the cab50 - older version control box, pinched wires, etc. to check and rule out potential sources of your problems.  Keep us posted on your progress...


----------



## samdweezel05 (Jun 25, 2013)

I do not have a Cab 50 but I do have it's little brother, the PS-35.  My issues have been the same as yours.  We have tried 7 or 8 different kinds of pellets but the pot needs to be dumped every day with out fail or it will burn lazy.  The ash build up after a week is extremely bad.  It has done this since day one as well.  The dealer has been here several times and they have never found a problem and approved of my installation.  Feed rate is set as it should be if not a little low.  Only pellets that we have used that worked at all are the green supremes  from Lowes.  I am told by other members that they are not the best pellets on the market but they work 10 times better than the cubex pellets in my stove.


----------



## smwilliamson (Jun 26, 2013)

samdweezel05 said:


> I do not have a Cab 50 but I do have it's little brother, the PS-35. My issues have been the same as yours. We have tried 7 or 8 different kinds of pellets but the pot needs to be dumped every day with out fail or it will burn lazy. The ash build up after a week is extremely bad. It has done this since day one as well. The dealer has been here several times and they have never found a problem and approved of my installation. Feed rate is set as it should be if not a little low. Only pellets that we have used that worked at all are the green supremes from Lowes. I am told by other members that they are not the best pellets on the market but they work 10 times better than the cubex pellets in my stove.


Cubex has a  bad lot last year and thousands of tons were replaced....give them another try. You also may want to look in to an outside air connection too, if you do not already have one.


----------



## Lousyweather (Jun 26, 2013)

somewhere around page 12 on your manual, there should be a maintenance chart.......correct me if Im wrong, but I believe it states that the burnpot should be dumped daily, or with each bag of pellets burned. It doesn't seem like its really operating any differently than expected, just an issue if you don't follow the instructions as per the manual. From a money standpoint, if you want less maintenance, there are other types/brands out there which require less maintenance......but they cost more. Ya get what ya pays for?


----------



## imacman (Jun 26, 2013)

Don't know if this is possible, but is there any way on those units to increase airflow through the pot?  A trim setting that can be cranked up?  I know on my 10-cpm, when burning poorer quality pellets, or when I burned grass pellets, turning the comb. air setting up a few notches solved the pot build-up problem.


----------



## Lousyweather (Jun 26, 2013)

imacman said:


> Don't know if this is possible, but is there any way on those units to increase airflow through the pot? A trim setting that can be cranked up? I know on my 10-cpm, when burning poorer quality pellets, or when I burned grass pellets, turning the comb. air setting up a few notches solved the pot build-up problem.


 
other than to minimize restrictions, no


----------



## smwilliamson (Jun 26, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> other than to minimize restrictions, no


The control box has multiple settings, yes?. I think there is a 10% more option...


----------



## imacman (Jun 26, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> The control box has multiple settings, yes?. I think there is a 10% more option...


If that's the case, I'd be trying that.....help blow more ash out of the pot.


----------



## Lousyweather (Jun 27, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> The control box has multiple settings, yes?. I think there is a 10% more option...


 

im figuring that obvious setting has already been accomplished


----------



## imacman (Jun 27, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> im figuring that obvious setting has already been accomplished


Never "assume" anything


----------



## Lousyweather (Jun 28, 2013)

imacman said:


> Never "assume" anything


 
yea, one of those ubiquitous quotes some genius comes up with (cause it sounds so good to have others follow tenets that we ourselves don't have to).....fact is, we have to assume stuff everyday, otherwise we wouldn't get thru the day.....
1. never assume
2. customer is always right
3.?


----------



## samdweezel05 (Jun 28, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> Cubex has a bad lot last year and thousands of tons were replaced....give them another try. You also may want to look in to an outside air connection too, if you do not already have one.


 
My PS35 has a fresh air kit.

As far as dumping the pot daily, for me it's a necessity or the stove will not run more than a day.  The PS35 at the dealer gets dumped once a week and it heats most of their showroom.  I will try a small quantity of cubex again this year and see if they are any better than last year.


----------



## samdweezel05 (Jun 28, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> The control box has multiple settings, yes?. I think there is a 10% more option...


 
The 10% option is only for the pellet feed auger.  Not to get more air.


----------



## smwilliamson (Jun 28, 2013)

samdweezel05 said:


> The 10% option is only for the pellet feed auger. Not to get more air.


I don't think so...I believe there is a voltage change to the motor as well..


----------



## samdweezel05 (Jun 28, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> I don't think so...I believe there is a voltage change to the motor as well..


 
If their is and it also works for the PS35 I would love to hear it.  The service guy from the dealer (who seamed pretty knowledgeable) told me that they could only add 10% to the feed rate.


----------



## smwilliamson (Jun 28, 2013)

I'm fairly certain that its more of an air thing. Commonly used when the stove is installed at a higher altitude. At higher altitudes you need more air, not more fuel. Give it a try.


----------



## imacman (Jun 29, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> ......Commonly used when the stove is installed at a higher altitude. *At higher altitudes you need more air*, not more fuel. Give it a try.


Makes sense to me


----------



## coldinmich (Jul 14, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> Did you buy this Cab 50 used?[/quote             no, I bought it new from a local dealer.


----------



## coldinmich (Jul 14, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> sure, once to "problem" is diagnosed (and if ya Big Boxed it, far as I am concerned, yer on yer own) ........I guess we are waiting for the OP to tell us where he or she got it?


             bought it new from a dealer


----------



## coldinmich (Jul 14, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> somewhere around page 12 on your manual, there should be a maintenance chart.......correct me if Im wrong, but I believe it states that the burnpot should be dumped daily, or with each bag of pellets burned. It doesn't seem like its really operating any differently than expected, just an issue if you don't follow the instructions as per the manual. From a money standpoint, if you want less maintenance, there are other types/brands out there which require less maintenance......but they cost more. Ya get what ya pays for?


     I have followed the owners manual. In the winter months I dumped the burn pot In the morning before going to work and had to drive directly home afterward to do it again. Had to push the ash aside or it would overflow into firepot. Vac every other day. clean glass twice a day.  Burned about a bag every 24hrs.  a lot of nights it wouldn't run till morn. woke up a lot to a freezing house.


----------



## coldinmich (Jul 14, 2013)

imacman said:


> So let me get this straight.....you got the stove, had problems right away, and you didn't get the dealer to come out to fix it?
> 
> And this is the phone # you called? 1-877-427-3316


----------



## coldinmich (Jul 14, 2013)

Talked with the dealer and all he would say is I am burning the wrong pellets


----------



## slls (Jul 14, 2013)

Strange it's not blowing the ash out, that's what it's suppose to do.


----------



## Lousyweather (Jul 15, 2013)

coldinmich said:


> Talked with the dealer and all he would say is I am burning the wrong pellets


 
yea, standard answer when ya don't know what the issue is......its almost NEVER the wrong pellets, tho some will burn better than others......dealer's responsibility


----------



## kinsmanstoves (Jul 16, 2013)

Haha, this is making me chuckle.  Now where is my cape, I know I put it here someplace.  I will be back.

Eric


----------



## kinsmanstoves (Jul 16, 2013)

Ok, I found the cape and it is a little dusty.  Now where is that mask, whoops found the zipper and the ball mask, hmmmmm.  Hold on!

Eric


----------



## kinsmanstoves (Jul 16, 2013)

coldinmich said:


> Bought a cab 50 in nov and had problems since day one. Likes to shut down a lot, leaving the house very cold. I was told it may be the hopper lid switch. Where can I get a parts catalog to order parts.
> Also, tons of ash. I can burn one bag and the firepot has lots of ash and needs cleaning. I have tried different types of pellets and always the same.


 


Welcome to the forum.  The CAB-50 is an awesome unit for the money.

Did you read the manual from front to back?  

Now lets go through your checklist of issues.

On day one of problems you should have been on the phone with the dealer.  On day two you needed to be on the phone again asking why is the stove not fixed.

FORGET THE HOPPER SWITCH ! (notice the yelling?)  Might not want to listen to the person that told you that.

Parts are obtained through your dealer but I would bet you a weeks worth of beer there is not a broken part on your stove.

Tons of ash from a bag of pellets, REALLY?

Now lets get to the problem so explain how the stove shuts down and does not re light?  How about telling me all the parts in the venting system including diameter and brand of pipe.  Where is the stove located in the house?  Who installed the stove?  

Eric


----------



## coldinmich (Jul 16, 2013)

kinsmanstoves said:


> Welcome to the forum. The CAB-50 is an awesome unit for the money.
> 
> Did you read the manual from front to back?
> 
> ...


 ON DAY ONE I WAS ON THE PHONE WITH THE DEALER! [notice the yelling].  thanit ran fine for a few weeks and then problems resurfaced.  I stopped at his shop and he advised I use a different brand of pellet. I have spoken to the dealer a few times and it always the same... buy my pellets.  the stove was installed by a company the dealer recommended.  I also called the 1-877 number to ask for a refund and was told I needed to buy replacement parts and try to fix it before any kind of refund can even be discussed.   I was getting up half hour early in the winter to work on the damn thing to get heat into the house before I went to work. at one point I hit the side of the top of the stove and pellets began to drop. I concluded the switch wasn't engaging.  my conclusion is that the cab 50 is just cheaply made product from a company that doesn't stand behind their work.  for the money I spent I should have had heat in the past winter.   I PAID FOR A PELLET STOVE TO HEAT MY HOUSE, NOT FOR A STOVE I NEEDED TO WORK ON  notice the yelling.


----------



## coldinmich (Jul 16, 2013)

coldinmich said:


> ON DAY ONE I WAS ON THE PHONE WITH THE DEALER! [notice the yelling]. thanit ran fine for a few weeks and then problems resurfaced. I stopped at his shop and he advised I use a different brand of pellet. I have spoken to the dealer a few times and it always the same... buy my pellets. the stove was installed by a company the dealer recommended. I also called the 1-877 number to ask for a refund and was told I needed to buy replacement parts and try to fix it before any kind of refund can even be discussed. I was getting up half hour early in the winter to work on the damn thing to get heat into the house before I went to work. at one point I hit the side of the top of the stove and pellets began to drop. I concluded the switch wasn't engaging. my conclusion is that the cab 50 is just cheaply made product from a company that doesn't stand behind their work. for the money I spent I should have had heat in the past winter. I PAID FOR A PELLET STOVE TO HEAT MY HOUSE, NOT FOR A STOVE I NEEDED TO WORK ON notice the yelling.


                                                                                   as far as the tons of ash remark, I cannot burn one bag through the stove without cleaning the ash out so it doesn't spill into the firepot. usually 1.25 bags require two ash, firepot, and glass cleanings.


----------



## Lake Girl (Jul 16, 2013)

Cold, we need more info on your exhaust set-up to be able to give you ideas on what's going on with your stove (there are several pellet stove repair techs on the forum).  Diameter, total length, elbows... do you have an outside air kit (OAK for short)?

Pellet brand usually does not make that big a difference on amount of ash - usually more of a difference of color and density of ash (softwoods lighter color and burn hotter).  What brand did you use and what is the dealer recommending?  Did the dealer even come out to check the stove and bring some "golden" pellets with him?  If you ever talk to the folks at the manufacturer, you should make them very aware that dealer support has been horrible.  There are places on the net where you can leave comments about dealers so someone else doesn't get stung too.  Feel free to mention the dealer here too so others that are researching can avoid them...


----------



## SmokeyTheBear (Jul 17, 2013)

You could have something as simple as the door not closing properly against its gasket.

A pellet stove must have the proper air flow through it to operate correctly anything that interferes with that air flow causes a bad burn, bad burns result in lots of ash, black soot, and burn pot buildup.

The stove you have has what is basically Quadrafire guts inside it.

Things that interfere air flow are:

Bad gaskets, loose or failing latches, ash in the exhaust system which starts just above the burn pot, a blocked or partially blocked air intake, a house that suffers negative pressure if the stove doesn't have an OAK installed (this can be hard to nail down because it is controlled by a number of factors all of which are coming together in your house (things like operating exhaust fans, number of floors and location of the stove on a lower level, how well the house is sealed, and so on), altitude at the house location (there are usually ways to handle even this).

While pellet quality does play a part in how well a stove burns it is usually low down on the problem causing end of the spectrum (more apt to be an issue if the pellet maker is new, just recovering from damage to their plant, or is using some form of reclaimed materials other than sawdust from a milling operation). This is also about the easiest to change, buy a few bags of a different pellet and try them. The one thing that is directly related to a particular pellet being burned is the amount of ash produced. There is a 5 to 1 ratio in ash produced across the range of pellets out there marked premium grade. Just because ash is being produced doesn't mean it has to cause trouble, your stove should be ejecting most of the ash from the burn pot, those sparkles that should be seen above your burn pot when a fresh load of pellets is dropped into the burn pot. This is also powered by the air flow through the stove.


----------



## Delta-T (Jul 17, 2013)

be aware, stoves do not make ash, pellets make ash when they burn. good combustion usually leads to fluffy, powdery ash (assuming the pellets are decent). poor combustion usually leads to black, sooty ash that can be very clingy.


----------



## kinsmanstoves (Jul 17, 2013)

coldinmich said:


> ON DAY ONE I WAS ON THE PHONE WITH THE DEALER! [notice the yelling]. thanit ran fine for a few weeks and then problems resurfaced. I stopped at his shop and he advised I use a different brand of pellet. I have spoken to the dealer a few times and it always the same... buy my pellets. the stove was installed by a company the dealer recommended. I also called the 1-877 number to ask for a refund and was told I needed to buy replacement parts and try to fix it before any kind of refund can even be discussed. I was getting up half hour early in the winter to work on the damn thing to get heat into the house before I went to work. at one point I hit the side of the top of the stove and pellets began to drop. I concluded the switch wasn't engaging. my conclusion is that the cab 50 is just cheaply made product from a company that doesn't stand behind their work. for the money I spent I should have had heat in the past winter. I PAID FOR A PELLET STOVE TO HEAT MY HOUSE, NOT FOR A STOVE I NEEDED TO WORK ON notice the yelling.


 


The CAB50 is an awesome unit for the money.  It is not the best unit or the worst unit out there but the best for the money.  DO NOT mess with the computer, do not hit it, and do not bypass components unless you know what might happen.  Remember you are bringing fire into your house.  What components do you have in the venting?  If you want help please answer the questions we ask.  FYI if I hit anything hard enough I will see something fall out, trust me!  

FYI a pellet STOVE is not designed to heat a house.  It is an appliance that has limits just like refrigerators and AC units.  The other factor is how it was installed and just cause you paid for an install does not mean it is correct.

Please answer the questions if you want this problem solved.

Eric


----------



## St_Earl (Jul 19, 2013)

just finished my second winter with the PS50,. same stove, smaller hopper.
the only problem i have _ever _had was one single pellet jam at the top of the auger.
i am very happy with my stove.

while it is a budget model, it is not cheaply/poorly made.

folks like eric who just posted are a great resource. and as you can see, very patient.
hopefully you can sort through the issues.

getting ahead a bit here, but after you get the burn fixed, you might notice from reading here, that distribution of heat is a whole different issue people have to factor in.

there are several threads on moving the air throughout the space.
good luck.

on this forum you have the ear of people who do this for a living. and do it well.
the FREE advice people get here is one of the things makes this place the best hearth site around.

*i don't want this post to distract from eric's just above. his and the other's questions are the real starting place to get to the solution.


----------



## mattyice5290 (Jul 20, 2013)

maybe you shouldve spent an extra couple hundred bucks and got a harman heatilators are hhts attempt to compete with the big box stores they are cheap poor heaters but the price point is low


----------



## Lousyweather (Jul 20, 2013)

mattyice5290 said:


> maybe you shouldve spent an extra couple hundred bucks and got a harman heatilators are hhts attempt to compete with the big box stores they are cheap poor heaters but the price point is low


 
im gonna make some popcorn and see the replies to THIS one.......duck and cover, Matty!


----------



## St_Earl (Jul 20, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> im gonna make some popcorn and see the replies to THIS one.......duck and cover, Matty!


 

i'm not even going to waste my time.


----------



## slls (Jul 20, 2013)

Why waste time with . and , , somebody will figure it out.


----------



## coldinmich (Oct 13, 2013)

With oct here in mich we are getting cold at night.  after cleaning this thing stem to stearn there is NO improvement.  Actually worse. Now I need to clean out the firepot at least twice a day , vac out the inside twice a day, clean glass at least twice a day, and using less than a half a bag of pellets a day.  My next step is to drive out of town and speak with a dealer that might help me out.  This eco-choice has been the WORST purchase I have ever made.


----------



## MommyOf4 (Oct 13, 2013)

What kind of termination cap do you have on it?  Try taking off the termination cap and see what happens.


----------



## NateinMaine (Oct 13, 2013)

Haven't had my CAB50 for too long but long enough to run a couple bags through it and haven't had the ash problems you are experiencing. Do you have any videos of the stove running or pics of your set up?


----------



## Bob Sorjanen (Oct 14, 2013)

as asked before what is your exhaust vent set up? how long how many elbows or Tees how much horizontal run how much verticle? this would be very helpful in trying to help you solve your problem. when you say you clean your stove what is involved in that? you cleaning all the venting? is your air intake clear?


----------



## saladdin (Oct 14, 2013)

coldinmich said:


> With oct here in mich we are getting cold at night.  after cleaning this thing stem to stearn there is NO improvement.  Actually worse. Now I need to clean out the firepot at least twice a day , vac out the inside twice a day, clean glass at least twice a day, and using less than a half a bag of pellets a day.  My next step is to drive out of town and speak with a dealer that might help me out.  This eco-choice has been the WORST purchase I have ever made.


 

Your mind is made up, fine. But why keep posting complaints when you ignore the dealers that keep asking you the same questions over and over?

I just don't get why you won't answer questions from people that are begging to help you out.

3rd season of Cab50. Heating perfectly...


----------



## Bob Sorjanen (Oct 14, 2013)

saladdin said:


> Your mind is made up, fine. But why keep posting complaints when you ignore the dealers that keep asking you the same questions over and over?
> 
> I just don't get why you won't answer questions from people that are begging to help you out.
> 
> 3rd season of Cab50. Heating perfectly...


well said saladdin


----------



## imacman (Oct 14, 2013)

saladdin said:


> Your mind is made up, fine. But why keep posting complaints when you ignore the dealers that keep asking you the same questions over and over?
> 
> I just don't get why you won't answer questions from people that are begging to help you out.
> 
> 3rd season of Cab50. Heating perfectly...


Exactly.....Eric from Kinsman stoves sells these stoves, and is a Certified tech.  He (and others) have asked you more than twice what your exhaust system is made up of, and how it's run from the stove to the end....you've refused to answer this, but keep asking for help.

Pretty soon, no one will answer.


----------



## The Ds (Oct 15, 2013)

Eric installed our PS50 and we have not had anything other than 2 pellet jams and a couple of misfires........This will be our 2nd full heating season......Have learned a lot here......Ordered a combustion gasket from Eric and actually replaced it myself during the non heating season.......There is a learning curve,but try to hang in there.......there is an explanation,but the techs/gurus on here need numbers......diameter pipe/ elbows and straight lengths,etc..I hope you get it figured out....


----------



## Tedinski (Oct 16, 2013)

Hello Coldinmich!

I'm a relative newbie to this forum & to pellet stoves in general.   BUT  I've worked for almost 20 years with huge combustion systems in the heat-treat/melting furnace industry  (think really big furnaces with sparks, molten metal, and other visions of "hell")  

I installed my CAB50 myself and haven't had the issues you're experiencing.  I HAVE seen very similar things happen even to large gas fired furnaces that are experiencing pressure imbalance problems.  Horrible sooting, carbon monoxide buildup in the factory bay, and flue gasses not exiting the flue properly...  I get a few calls every fall re: furnaces that are suddenly running poorly.  Almost invariably I find that there is large negative pressure (compared to outside the building) in the area/bay that the furnace is in.  When it gets chilly, people close all the bay doors, etc etc., & there are so many exhaust fans that air starts coming DOWN the flue instead of exhausting!

Do you have a very "tight" house?  Nice modern construction or even an older house that has been well insulated and caulked?  It may sound funny, but try cracking a window a couple of inches & then run the CAB50.  See if the smoking and high ash problem goes away.    If this fixes the problem, buy the fresh-air kit that EcoChoice offers and you'll be good to go.  *There HAS to be a path for air to enter the house in order for it to exit through your CAB50*.

It's worth a try, and it's a very simple "check"!

I 100% agree with the posts I've read about checking your exhaust system.  How long is it?  How many elbows?  Is there a device to cancel downdraft (that could be very problematic!).  
There can be a number of causes for what you're experiencing, but this is a VERY quick way to determine if you need an air kit.  Hope this helps, and please let us know your progress.


----------



## coldinmich (Oct 19, 2013)

imacman said:


> Exactly.....Eric from Kinsman stoves sells these stoves, and is a Certified tech.  He (and others) have asked you more than twice what your exhaust system is made up of, and how it's run from the stove to the end....you've refused to answer this, but keep asking for help.
> 
> Pretty soon, no one will answer.


   I haven't been on this forum lately of even on the internet much.  My exhaust is vented outside. One 45 degree elbow and then a 24 inch pipe, 3inch outside diameter,  yes I keep it cleaned out. I find a lot of soot/ash build up in this. as far as cleaning; the firepot needs to cleaned twice a day as I am burning about half a bag a day. The area around the firepot needs to be vacuumed  once every other day or the ash spills over Into the firepot.  This all depends on if I can keep this thing running. Usually wont run 24 straight hours without working on it.   I believe the hopper lid switch is not lining up. The lid cannot simply be screwed on after removing to get the side panels off. It needs to be shimmed because it or the stove isn't square.  I also remove the panels behind the firebox once a week and clean behind it.


----------



## saladdin (Oct 19, 2013)

coldinmich said:


> I haven't been on this forum lately of even on the internet much.  My exhaust is vented outside. One 45 degree elbow and then a 24 inch pipe, 3inch outside diameter,  yes I keep it cleaned out. I find a lot of soot/ash build up in this. as far as cleaning; the firepot needs to cleaned twice a day as I am burning about half a bag a day. The area around the firepot needs to be vacuumed  once every other day or the ash spills over Into the firepot.  This all depends on if I can keep this thing running. Usually wont run 24 straight hours without working on it.   I believe the hopper lid switch is not lining up. The lid cannot simply be screwed on after removing to get the side panels off. It needs to be shimmed because it or the stove isn't square.  I also remove the panels behind the firebox once a week and clean behind it.



I thought you had a cab50. You don't need to take off the hopper lid to remove the sides.

Do a search for cab50 and there is a thread about bypassing the lid switch to test. But I don;t see how that plays any part in your issues.

Have you done the washer trick on the door handle to tighten the seal? There's a cab50 thread on that also.


----------



## Tedinski (Oct 19, 2013)

coldinmich said:


> I haven't been on this forum lately of even on the internet much.  My exhaust is vented outside. One 45 degree elbow and then a 24 inch pipe, 3inch outside diameter,  yes I keep it cleaned out. I find a lot of soot/ash build up in this. as far as cleaning; the firepot needs to cleaned twice a day as I am burning about half a bag a day. The area around the firepot needs to be vacuumed  once every other day or the ash spills over Into the firepot.  This all depends on if I can keep this thing running. Usually wont run 24 straight hours without working on it.   I believe the hopper lid switch is not lining up. The lid cannot simply be screwed on after removing to get the side panels off. It needs to be shimmed because it or the stove isn't square.  I also remove the panels behind the firebox once a week and clean behind it.


Thanks for the info on your exhaust system.  It seems very straightforward... it's certainly not the trouble.
Did you try opening a window in the room & running the stove (see my post, above)? 
I have a CAB50, and I do NOT need to remove anything on the top in order to open the sides & service the unit.


----------



## dlehneman (Oct 19, 2013)

coldinmich said:


> I haven't been on this forum lately of even on the internet much.  My exhaust is vented outside. One 45 degree elbow and then a 24 inch pipe, 3inch outside diameter,  yes I keep it cleaned out. I find a lot of soot/ash build up in this. as far as cleaning; the firepot needs to cleaned twice a day as I am burning about half a bag a day. The area around the firepot needs to be vacuumed  once every other day or the ash spills over Into the firepot.  This all depends on if I can keep this thing running. Usually wont run 24 straight hours without working on it.   I believe the hopper lid switch is not lining up. The lid cannot simply be screwed on after removing to get the side panels off. It needs to be shimmed because it or the stove isn't square.  I also remove the panels behind the firebox once a week and clean behind it.



Do you have a picture or two of the exhaust setup? 
Are you using an outside air kit (drawing in air from outside for combustion, instead of pulling it from the room)?


----------



## coldinmich (Oct 19, 2013)

yes I am pulling outside air.  just spoke with a dealer/tech from another pellet stove company. he has repaired a few of the eco-choice stoves. He shared an e-mail he received from eco choice. the air shutter often needs adjustment and the ashpan doesn't seal properly. so I will address the sealing of the problem areas and find out how to adjust the air shutter.  I really wish the dealer I bought this from or eco-choice would honor the warranty.


----------



## krooser (Oct 20, 2013)

That loose ash pan door may be your problem... I failed to secure the ash pan on my stove the first week I had it and the dealer found the problem during a service call... cleaned up the stove/used the leaf blower to clean out about a million pounds of accumulated ash and I was in business again.


----------



## coldinmich (Oct 20, 2013)

according to the e-mail I received I need to take the ash pan out and seal some seams and bolts Inside the compartment with high temp silicone.


----------



## Tedinski (Oct 20, 2013)

I hope that works for you.
If the firepot is not getting enough air, how will sealing up the area BELOW it get more air to the combustion area?
Perhaps I'm just not envisioning this properly...


----------



## coldinmich (Oct 20, 2013)

not sure.  I believe the idea is that currently the system is leaking air and not allowing a true air flow.  Since my dealer and eco choice refuse to help I am trying to repair this on my own.  If this does not work I am thinking of trading this piece of junk off and get a more reliable brand. winter is coming and I need heat.


----------



## Tedinski (Oct 20, 2013)

Could you take the ash pan out, and take a picture of the interior?
Also:  What happens if you run the unit with the ash pan removed?   Do the flames get shorter & hotter?


----------



## coldinmich (Oct 20, 2013)

i took the ashpan out and see little difference.  the most noticeable thing is the sound o  f air being sucked in. I tried to take a good pic but it hard to get light in that area.,  sorry.  I cant figure out how to insert a pic here.


----------



## Tedinski (Oct 20, 2013)

That's OK on the pic..  don't worry.

So the flame is still slow & lazy & smokey, even when you take out the ash pan?

Then the problem is not air delivery...  it's on the exhaust side of your system.
Either the exhaust fan isn't working properly, or there HAS to be a blockage someplace!

If you are starting the stove up, and check air flow going out of your flue, can you feel anything?  there should be quite a stream of air blowing out.

If there is NOT, then the exhaust/combustion fan isn't spinning up   OR   there's a blockage.

If there IS a lot of air, then there's a large leak bypassing your combustion pot. (such as a completely loose combustion air fan,  missing gaskets in places, etc.)

You're 100% sure that the door gasket is fully in place?  that would be one example of a massive leak on the "far side" of the combustion pot.


I kinda wish I were closer to you.  I see these problems as a challenge.
I work on giant furnaces every day...  I'm in Pittsburgh today monitoring a big electric furnace in fact.   12-hour shifts with my coworker (we have to be here 24/7 until the furnace is fully commissioned).


----------



## coldinmich (Oct 20, 2013)

I get a lot of air pushing out my exhaust vent outside. I recently removed the exhaust vent pipe to do another complete cleaning , then using high temp silicone and aluminum tape I sealed the joints back up.  Even if I get the venting situation correct I am still faced with the problem of frequent shutdowns.


----------



## coldinmich (Oct 20, 2013)

off to get some chores done and then off to bed. I work third shift so I need to get some sleep and will check back in tomorrow.  thanks for all your help. I appreciate it and look forward to hearing more from you.


----------



## Tedinski (Oct 20, 2013)

No trouble!    I like a challenge!
If you can, work on getting us all some pictures of the interior of the firebox, of the combustion air path inside (in the back of) your stove...
Perhaps a friend can help you with getting pictures posted.


----------



## St_Earl (Oct 21, 2013)

ok. i think i may have this one figured out.
i just had to do this on my PS50. (same stove basically)
i actually just started having a similar thing happen with the fire being WAY too low even with the feed gate all the way open.
i have never run with the gate all the way open.
i knew something wasn't right when i opened the gate all the way and there was almost no change.


since pellets were dropping, i didn't at first think it could be an auger issue.
i vacuum the channel out a few times a year these last two seasons.
it turns out though that over time, the ultra fine dust had accumulated at the very top of the auger right at the upper opening to the drop chute.
vacuuming from the bottom of the channel inside the hopper had had no effect on this deposit.

i had earlier poked a wire up there to no effect.(thinking it may have been some kind of partial pellet jam)   but this morning i put a piece of hose (an old piece of small diameter  washing machine supply hose with one fitting cut off) all the way up the drop chute from inside the firebox end. and i gave a good blow of air.
lo and behold the superfine dust fell out into the firepot and also back down the channel to the bottom of the hopper.

before i did this i was getting some misfires and the flame was too low because there were just not enough pellets in the pot even with the gate full open.

now it's lighting and running like a champ on medium with the gate closed down to my usual sharpie mark.
flame height is perfect just like i had set it originally
hopefully this is also what you have going on.

good luck


----------



## coldinmich (Oct 23, 2013)

Tedinski said:


> No trouble!    I like a challenge!
> If you can, work on getting us all some pictures of the interior of the firebox, of the combustion air path inside (in the back of) your stove...
> Perhaps a friend can help you with getting pictures posted.


  thanks Ted.  I did take some pics but they didn't turn out good. If you wish to e-mail me I can send them to you. I am edgar3636@yahoo.com


----------



## coldinmich (Oct 23, 2013)

St_Earl said:


> ok. i think i may have this one figured out.
> i just had to do this on my PS50. (same stove basically)
> i actually just started having a similar thing happen with the fire being WAY too low even with the feed gate all the way open.
> i have never run with the gate all the way open.
> ...


 I have tried that too. I let the unit run empty every other week and then shop vac the dust out.


----------



## Tedinski (Oct 23, 2013)

coldinmich said:


> thanks Ted.  I did take some pics but they didn't turn out good. If you wish to e-mail me I can send them to you. I am edgar3636@yahoo.com


 I sent you an email, so you can just hit "reply" along with pictures.
If you'd like, I can try to post the pictures after you've sent them to me, so other people can chime in as well.


----------



## St_Earl (Oct 23, 2013)

coldinmich said:


> I have tried that too. I let the unit run empty every other week and then shop vac the dust out.




yeah. as i said, just vacuuming didn't get at the accumulation at the top end of the auger.
that's why i actually blew it out. but if you tried that, then i guess that's that.


----------



## coldinmich (Oct 25, 2013)

Been thinking that the fan isn't running hard enough.  Thinking about buying a new one and trying that.  where can I order parts for eco choice pellet stoves?  Please don't tell me to go to the dealer.  That does  NOT work.


----------



## coldinmich (Oct 25, 2013)

thanks.  I shall give that a whirl the next time I run the hopper empty


St_Earl said:


> yeah. as i said, just vacuuming didn't get at the accumulation at the top end of the auger.
> that's why i actually blew it out. but if you tried that, then i guess that's that.


----------



## Tedinski (Oct 25, 2013)

coldinmich said:


> Been thinking that the fan isn't running hard enough.  Thinking about buying a new one and trying that.  where can I order parts for eco choice pellet stoves?  Please don't tell me to go to the dealer.  That does  NOT work.


 
If you want to go that route, here's a place that was recommended to me.  I haven't used them yet.
http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.co...ce-70-CFM-Combustion-Blower-p/srv7000-602.htm


----------



## Tedinski (Oct 25, 2013)

Something to keep in mind though:   You said you had a LOT of air going out of the exhaust pipe.   If it's a lot, it must be coming from the combustion fan.
I can't remember....  did you do the "dollar bill test"  on your door?   Put a dollar bill across the door gasket, and close the door.  You should NOT be able to pull the dollar out.   Do this all around the door looking for spots where the gasket isn't tight.
I really wish I could see this stove.... it has to be something basic!


----------



## coldinmich (Oct 26, 2013)

today when  I do my weekly complete teardown/cleanout I will try the dollar bill test.  You would be surprised at how much ash build up I get in just one week burning about a half a bag a day.  Still shuts itself down once a day. it was in the middle of the night but now it shuts down mid morning.


----------



## coldinmich (Oct 26, 2013)

I have tried the dollar bill test.  It will pull out in some areas but it takes a good tug. The other areas the bill will not pull out.


----------



## Tedinski (Oct 26, 2013)

Well @#$!     
Running out of ideas!
I'm out on the road working right now, but when I get home I'll take a good look at the exhaust path, and see if there's a likely candidate for a major leak.
Is that 22 year old kid gonna come out & take a look?


----------



## coldinmich (Oct 27, 2013)

He keeps saying I am using the wrong pellets. He can tell me that over the phone. I wouldn't let this kid rake the leaves out of my yard.  Doubt he is qualified to service a fishbowl.


----------



## Tedinski (Oct 27, 2013)

I just can't believe that could be the problem, but perhaps you should buy a bag just to test it.  then, when it doesn't work you can say "see"?   And maybe get a replacement unit in.


----------



## Mpodesta (Oct 27, 2013)

yeah...I'm not buying that either..............

I have a ps50 that I got last year, same stove as yours, just less capacity and I've burned all sorts of box store crap in mine when I first got it...made no difference, burned it all


----------



## coldinmich (Oct 28, 2013)

tried that. accord


Tedinski said:


> I just can't believe that could be the problem, but perhaps you should buy a bag just to test it.  then, when it doesn't work you can say "see"?   And maybe get a replacement unit in.[/qu
> 
> 
> Tedinski said:
> ...


----------



## Tedinski (Oct 28, 2013)

I just don't know what to say.  
If he refuses to come, I'd really let the manufacturer "have it" so to speak re: their distributor.
If you can find a reputable repair guy, it might be worth getting him in.   The CAB50 really is a decent unit.  It has to be something simple!
Last but not least, there's always small claims court.


----------



## Tedinski (Nov 1, 2013)

Has that evil SOB come to help you yet?
Any updates?


----------



## coldinmich (Nov 3, 2013)

no one has contacted me about service. They are ignoring me. I filed a complaint with the BBB.  The warranty period will be done by next  week..Heatilator/eco-choice has done a fine job in avoiding the warranty.   I warn everyone I know and even people I don't know about this clown that pretends to be a dealer and about the manufacturer.


----------



## Tedinski (Nov 3, 2013)

I don't know what to say, other than it just plain SUCKS that you've been treated so poorly.
I'm still convinced it's probably something quite simple with your stove, but if they won't bother to come out it will be a bear to fix.  I wish I could help more... I'm just too far away to stop by & take a look.
Good choice, calling the better business bureau.  I hope they help you get some satisfaction!


----------



## Tedinski (Nov 3, 2013)

Maybe there's somebody in Michigan that lives close enough to take a look?

Perhaps start a new thread, asking for a knowledgeable member or a GOOD sales rep right in your area.

The CAB50 is a good stove.  I would call a GOOD dealer in your area to come & take a good look.   THEN:  SUE the PANTS off the dealer who has ignored you, and put that receipt for service in as part of your suit.   Small claims court isn't a huge deal... you don't need a lawyer for basic stuff.

But hopefully the BBB scares the guy into coming out.


----------



## hearthnleisure (Nov 3, 2013)

Forgive me for dropping in here late and I started to read through the post but it was a little painful 

Heatilator released a vacuum isolator box to remedy a problem that was known that was causing the pressure switch to lose vacuum when the distribution blower would come on under certain venting configurations, namely short runs like it sounds like you have.  Part # SRV7074-183 .  It is basically a metal box that mounts around the vacuum switch.

More recently they released a design change for Cab50's that were manufactured after 5/20/13 that changed the unit around a little bit to eliminate the low vacuum people have been having.  Basically sealed up problem air leak areas and redesigned the back panel where the unit is sucking in air.  See the attached pdf that breaks down the field fix for existing units.  One tube of RTV will go a long way towards fixing any vacuum issues people are having.


----------



## Tedinski (Nov 3, 2013)

I'm still trying to picture what's going on with your stove.....
If you open your owner's manual to page 16, it shows a couple of different situations/problems with burning.  Which one looks like your trouble?

Does the flame look like figure 16.2 ?      You've tried more than one fuel, so I doubt it's fuel that's your trouble.    I'm just trying to picture what you're running into.


----------



## saladdin (Nov 3, 2013)

BBB is 99% worthless. I'd be surprised if you hear a peep.


hearthnleisure said:


> Forgive me for dropping in here late and I started to read through the post but it was a little painful
> 
> Heatilator released a vacuum isolator box to remedy a problem that was known that was causing the pressure switch to lose vacuum when the distribution blower would come on under certain venting configurations, namely short runs like it sounds like you have.  Part # SRV7074-183 .  It is basically a metal box that mounts around the vacuum switch.
> 
> More recently they released a design change for Cab50's that were manufactured after 5/20/13 that changed the unit around a little bit to eliminate the low vacuum people have been having.  Basically sealed up problem air leak areas and redesigned the back panel where the unit is sucking in air.  See the attached pdf that breaks down the field fix for existing units.  One tube of RTV will go a long way towards fixing any vacuum issues people are having.




Mine is a June 2011 model but I'm not having any issues. Thanks for the fix manual, will file it for future use.


----------



## coldinmich (Nov 3, 2013)

Tedinski said:


> I'm still trying to picture what's going on with your stove.....
> If you open your owner's manual to page 16, it shows a couple of different situations/problems with burning.  Which one looks like your trouble?
> 
> Does the flame look like figure 16.2 ?      You've tried more than one fuel, so I doubt it's fuel that's your trouble.    I'm just trying to picture what you're running into.


  the flames actually look like figure 16.3 and 16.2.    the flame goes from a nice 6-8 inches to 12.
  Also how do I access the area behind the ashpan to seal that area?


----------



## Tedinski (Nov 5, 2013)

Another (perhaps stupid) question.   Have you run the stove on low? (did you already cover this?)
I ran my stove on high for the first time yesterday.   The flame was much too big, and didn't look lilke combustion was complete.  The window got brown/black on it.

There's an adjustment to fix the "too much fuel" problem inside of the hopper area.

I didn't bother to adjust mine.  I just turned it back down to medium & everything burns just fine.


----------



## Tedinski (Nov 5, 2013)

http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b635/ted_deweese/SAM_0616_zps0b41f154.jpg
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b635/ted_deweese/SAM_0615_zps8945c400.jpg
Here are pics of my stove on low and on medium.   I tried to take a pic on high but the flame just "blooms" and the photo is worthless.  (crap camera!)
The stain on the glass was from running on high for only 20 minutes.
Have you already tried running on low & medium?
On low, my stove has the flame completely enclosed in the firepot.
Medium, the flame is maybe 8 to 10 inches high.
On high, the flame goes all the way to the top of the firebox.   TOO HIGH!    I'm thinking of adjusting the feed rate but I don't want to lose the perfect low setting that I have right now.   I plan on running mostly on low.
You can see how much ash buildup there is in the firebox in the second picture.   I vacuum it maybe once a day.


----------



## Tedinski (Nov 5, 2013)

Here's a link to a picture of my stove on HIGH.   It took me a bit to get a good photo.
Is this what your stove looks like while running?
This is WAY too high.   smoke on the glass, lots of ash... even a bit of smoke coming out of the flue pipe.    It would need adjustment if I was going to run on high.


----------



## coldinmich (Nov 5, 2013)

Tedinski said:


> Here's a link to a picture of my stove on HIGH.   It took me a bit to get a good photo.
> Is this what your stove looks like while running?
> This is WAY too high.   smoke on the glass, lots of ash... even a bit of smoke coming out of the flue pipe.    It would need adjustment if I was going to run on high.[/quo    That is what my stove looks like oh high.  I run my stove on medium. Tried running on low but I like the heat output on med.


----------



## Tedinski (Nov 5, 2013)

So it's smoky & lots of ash even on Medium.   Huh.


----------



## coldinmich (Nov 5, 2013)

Tedinski said:


> So it's smoky & lots of ash even on Medium.   Huh.


 yes.   so far I have sealed the ashpan area with high temp silicone, replaced the door gasket and clean the entire system including the exhaust vent, once a week. I think I am done trying to get this thing repaired and just learn to live with it the way it is


----------



## Tedinski (Nov 5, 2013)

You've already adjusted the feed-rate device inside of the pellet hopper?  adjusted it down?   Mine came full open.


----------



## Mpodesta (Nov 5, 2013)

This is mine on high (I run it on high all the time)

feed gate at about+- 85% open


----------



## coldinmich (Nov 5, 2013)

Tedinski said:


> You've already adjusted the feed-rate device inside of the pellet hopper?  adjusted it down?   Mine came full open.


 yes, I have made adjustments in half in increments and is nearly closed.  also adjustments to the air intake under the ashpan. it seems to run best with the intake half open.


----------



## coldinmich (Nov 5, 2013)

Mpodesta said:


> This is mine on high (I run it on high all the time)
> 
> feed gate at about+- 85% open


 wow  your stove looks great.  mine even has a spot on the right side where the paint is flaking off.


----------



## Tedinski (Nov 5, 2013)

Your stove's flame height looks a lot more reasonable.
I'll have to cut mine back a bit.
I'm worried that if I cut it back my "low" setting won't stay lit!

coldinmich:   Have you been able to take pictures yet?   If you need a place to put photos (for the link) you can put them in Photobucket.


----------



## Nick of PA (Nov 5, 2013)

I have a CAB50 as well and I have noticed that with each different brand of pellet I have burned, the flame height varies depending on the pellet.  Just keep that in mind as well.


----------



## coldinmich (Nov 6, 2013)

Tedinski said:


> Your stove's flame height looks a lot more reasonable.
> I'll have to cut mine back a bit.
> I'm worried that if I cut it back my "low" setting won't stay lit!
> 
> coldinmich:   Have you been able to take pictures yet?   If you need a place to put photos (for the link) you can put them in Photobucket.


 I have taken pics and sent them to your e-mail.  please note the area on the side where the paint is flaking off.  they sure sold me a piece of  @$%@$^&&


----------



## Tedinski (Nov 6, 2013)

I'll take a look ....  be right back!


----------



## Tedinski (Nov 6, 2013)

I took a look at your pictures.   The first one came through, though it's a bit fuzzy.   The second one just looks like a black square.   ??

Do the flames blow over to the right hand side of the stove?

Next time your stove has shut down, take a look at the bottom of your burn pot.    There is a plate that slides back & forth via the lever on the lower right of the furnace.
There should be a number of holes in that plate.   Are all the holes completely drilled through?   In my unit I count 9 holes.
A row of 4, a row of 3, and a row of 2    holes.

It's a long shot.   I'm trying to think of a reason why you'd have paint burning off the right hand side of your stove...  perhaps very uneven combustion air?


----------



## coldinmich (Nov 8, 2013)

Tedinski said:


> I took a look at your pictures.   The first one came through, though it's a bit fuzzy.   The second one just looks like a black square.   ??
> 
> Do the flames blow over to the right hand side of the stove?
> 
> ...


   I don't think the paint is burning off. I was in paint and powder coating for 25 yrs. This is a case of poor surface prep.


----------



## coldinmich (Nov 8, 2013)

So I contacted the BBB with my complaint. After several days it appears that the Manufacturer has NO intention of honoring the warranty.  WOW .... I wish I had known that about them prior to the purchase..


----------



## Tedinski (Nov 8, 2013)

Wow.  What a truly sucky situation.
I can't think of anything else to look for on your stove.   You mentioned in your email that your control box is on 5 instead of 2.  That's about the only thing left to change.  (I'm not at all sure what 5 does...   the PS35 uses 6, and the ps50 and cab50 are both supposed to be on 2).
Now that I know the manufacturer doesn't stand behind their product I'm worried about my stove as well.   Fortunately the dealer I bought my stove at seems like a very solid individual.  I'm pretty sure he'd help me out if there was something wrong.
Does anybody know what setting 5 on the control box does?


----------



## kykel (Nov 8, 2013)

I had a Hudson River Saranac freestanding pellet stove and had to empty burn pot twice a day. Eventually the company came out with a new burn pot. The only difference was that they put a flat gasket around the lip of the burn pot so that no air escaped from around the edges witch in turn forced more air through the burn pot and blew more ash out. worked much better. I dont know if this is an option with your burn pot but worth a try if possible.Good luck, hope you find the problem


----------



## coldinmich (Nov 8, 2013)

kykel said:


> I had a Hudson River Saranac freestanding pellet stove and had to empty burn pot twice a day. Eventually the company came out with a new burn pot. The only difference was that they put a flat gasket around the lip of the burn pot so that no air escaped from around the edges witch in turn forced more air through the burn pot and blew more ash out. worked much better. I dont know if this is an option with your burn pot but worth a try if possible.Good luck, hope you find the problem


     Thanks, that sound like a good idea.


----------



## Mpodesta (Nov 9, 2013)

coldinmich said:


> I don't think the paint is burning off. I was in paint and powder coating for 25 yrs. This is a case of poor surface prep.




Sorry for coming back to the party late.


This......



My Ps50 didnt come looking this good. I bought it used (used for 3 months, have the original receipts) from a lady in nh for 800$, they upgraded to a pellet boiler to heat the whole house (the ps50 was in the basement).

After I verified it was working well, I bought it, but the paint was flaking off in numerous spots inside and out. I worked as an automation specialist for 12 years before I career switched to culinary and was more than comfortable fully disassembling the whole unit and stripping it to bare metal. I have the capacity to do hobby/light industrial sized anodizing and powder coat. I re-coated with a high temp, flat black powder, slapped on the little badge and put her back together.

been working great and looking good since.


To bad your far away,  you could bring it over and we could take a whack at it and get it running proper


----------

