# Heavy puffer sauna stove needs help please



## bandoo (May 15, 2012)

Hi Folks,

I have sauna stove that we made from a new round boiler body 35" long 20" wide.
Fed from the outside.

The vertical pipe is 8" wide. 16 feet high.

The connector (stove to vertical)is about five and a half feet set at 30%.

The problem is constant back puffing. Unless the intake is cut to almost nothing (quarter inch or less) it back puffs.

Even after it's warmed up and the air inlet is closed to about a quarter inch, when I try to increase the fire by opening the draft another less than quarter inch it starts to puff again.

Opening the door a crack stops it but opening the draft increases it.
When the door is then closed it puffs unles inlet is closed almost to nothing.

Outside weather temp is about 75 degrees.
No outside wind.

When it's running and the draft is open a tiny bit (quarter inch) it's ok. 
But starting it up is a real process with constant puffing. Then adding wood later or trying to make it hotter in the middle makes it constantly whuff untill it's back to a quarter inch open.

Round screw in air draft intake is about 3.5".

Before this I had a handmade square stove box that was about 75% of the size connected to a 6" wide 4 meter vertical pipe and it never back puffed. It had the same five and a half foot connector.

The galvanized piece covering the pipe as it exits the wall is for safety. (falling pine needles).
The metal part opposite the damper on the stove is just a stability support and has no other function.

This is making us crazy trying to figure out what the problem may be.
Before we changed the verical stove pipe going up it was 6" wide so we figured if we enlarged the pipe to the size on the stove 8" it would take care of the problem, The old upright pipe was 4 meters high.
The old stove rusted out so we thought of using a new boiler body to avoid the rusting out of the welds on a square stove.

Maybe the combustion chamber is too big? Inlet too big?Inlet shape?

I hope I have the images in the right place..The first image is the inside of the stove. The picture didn't get rotated and is on it's side.

Any suggestions would really be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
micah


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## begreen (May 15, 2012)

Welcome. Draft sounds like the issue. Changing from 6" to 8" probably didn't help.


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## bandoo (May 15, 2012)

begreen said:


> Welcome. Draft sounds like the issue. Changing from 6" to 8" probably didn't help.


 Hi Thanks,
The stove was made with 8" pipe upright and elbow to start with connected to a 6" connector halfway through the horizontal piece and a 6" 4 yard upright and it was puffing then.
I thought since it started big that it was getting congested where it joined the 6"er so I did the whole thing in 8". Maybe it should have been 6" from the start?
Any remedies short of replacing the whole pipe from the top of the stove out?


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## begreen (May 15, 2012)

I would try a 8x6 reducer right at the stove and put the 6" connector back in. Are there any elbows involved here? If so, that's another problem area. If you can post a picture or two that would help. Use the upload file feature.


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## Jags (May 15, 2012)

See here for pics: http://postimage.org/gallery/7i2daz5c/

Dunno - back puffing is usually from oxygen coming in from the wrong direction (down the pipe). OPENING the air intake is usually the cure. Your stating that you have to CLOSE the intake to make it stop?? But if you crack the door it will also stop? I simply don't get it. That is not the way it is _supposed_ to work.

By the way - your clearance to combustibles would make me a bit nervous.


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## bandoo (May 15, 2012)

Jags said:


> See here for pics: http://postimage.org/gallery/7i2daz5c/
> 
> Dunno - back puffing is usually from oxygen coming in from the wrong direction (down the pipe). OPENING the air intake is usually the cure. Your stating that you have to CLOSE the intake to make it stop?? But if you crack the door it will also stop? I simply don't get it. That is not the way it is _supposed_ to work.( I'm with you)
> 
> By the way - your clearance to combustibles would make me a bit nervous.


-----------
Sorry about the false post. I pushed the wrong button......
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I know what you mean. This has got me scratching my head. 
I have 4 other woodstoves including a cookstove and have had about 15 different setups from Oregon through Colorado to Vermont over 40+ years and never had a problem with a stove or installation I couldn't solve till now.

The guy who welded the new stove put a 8" upright welded to the stove to begin with before I saw it. Everything else from the prior stove was 6" iron water pipe that was about at the end of it's life anyway. So After it was puffing away with the 8" going into the 6^' I figured I'd even it out and make it all 8".
So I'm stuck with this pipe.

The burn chamber is about the size of a small oil barrel. Maybe it's too big?
Maybe the air inlet is too big or the wrong shape?
Or maybe a gremlin.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



Any other sugestions would be appreciated no matter how wild...

Thanks again,
Micah
--------------
PS:
I also have a Defiant Encore (junk compared to it's namesake) that when the catalitic converter chamber after 15 years disintegrated, I took a sledge hammer to the inside and removed all the double walls including the one separating the back chamber. Now it holds twice the wood and has been fine for 10 years. Also got a Hartland cookstove and a few small Yotols and Waterfords here and there.
I have been running a sauna stove in this same spot for about 15 years and have checked out the combustibles within range of the stove, The walls around the stove are cement blocks and anywhere else has suspended metal sheets or is not near enough.
There is a little wood house we built above it so we are really really sensitive to the issue of fire. 
Both the Hartland and the Defiant have double wall 8" pipes...


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## begreen (May 15, 2012)

It looks like the smoke has to make 2 90 deg turns. Add a long horiz. run, oversized pipe and warm weather and I can see why draft is reversing. Is the horiz. run dead level or is it pitched upward toward the chimney cap?


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## bandoo (May 15, 2012)

begreen said:


> It looks like the smoke has to make 2 90 deg turns. Add a long horiz. run, oversized pipe and warm weather and I can see why draft is reversing. Is the horiz. run dead level or is it pitched upward toward the chimney cap?


 
No it's not level at all. The angles at the joints are 30%.. 
The smaller stove before it in the same place with the 6" pipe was dead level and never smoked....
thanks.


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## begreen (May 15, 2012)

Well, that's good. I'm curious why the smoke outlet was place far below the top of the stove? That would seem to be an issue too.


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## bandoo (May 15, 2012)

begreen said:


> Well, that's good. I'm curious why the smoke outlet was place far below the top of the stove? That would seem to be an issue too.


 
You mean on the inside of the stove?
I think it was a way for the welder to be sure he got a good weld job. Sometimes that's the place where they rust out first.
I was wondering the same thing too. 
Is that what you were referring to?


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## begreen (May 15, 2012)

Hard to tell from the pictures but it appears to exit several inches from the top of the stove. What is that dimension?


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## fossil (May 15, 2012)

I dunno either, but having read all through the thread and looked at the pics and thought about what everyone has said, it seems to me that the most significant thing about this system that's different from the previously trouble-free systems is the stove design/configuration itself. The positioning of the outlet flue collar on the end of the stove seems a whole lot less than ideal to me. Rick

ETA:  I may well be seeing something in the pictures that differs from reality...it wouldn't be the first time.  Even if I wasn't looking at a picture.


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## bandoo (May 15, 2012)

begreen said:


> Hard to tell from the pictures but it appears to exit several inches from the top of the stove. What is that dimension?


 
From the top. 20"high  by 8" wide.


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## bandoo (May 15, 2012)

bandoo said:


> From the top. 20"high by 8" wide.


 
I didn't like the look of that piece myself.
The maker had already done it and had installed the damper so I reluctantly went along with it.
It seemed it could be supercharging the air and somehow causing a combustion problem.
The last stove in that place had a maybe 6" piece before going into a 45% angle piece for about a foot and a half before it hit the long horizontal.
Could that be it? Could the whole thing being 8" also mess it up somehow?


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## bandoo (May 16, 2012)

fossil said:


> I dunno either, but having read all through the thread and looked at the pics and thought about what everyone has said, it seems to me that the most significant thing about this system that's different from the previously trouble-free systems is the stove design/configuration itself. The positioning of the outlet flue collar on the end of the stove seems a whole lot less than ideal to me. Rick


 
I agree.
Are you talking about the position or configuration?


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## fossil (May 16, 2012)

I don't know what I'm talking about...I'm revisiting the pics and trying to figure out just exactly what I'm looking at.  Rick


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## bandoo (May 16, 2012)

fossil said:


> I don't know what I'm talking about...I'm revisiting the pics and trying to figure out just exactly what I'm looking at. Rick


 
If you need any info or other pics please ask.
Thanks a lot.

I really appreciate  the help.


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## Jags (May 16, 2012)

What is the relationship between the top of the loading door and the bottom of the exhaust?  If the loading door has any portion of it higher than the bottom of the pipe the stove can literally be confused as to which one is the exhaust.  Also, if they are in close relationship it will adversely effect the draft, creating a low or lazy draft.


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## bandoo (May 16, 2012)

Jags said:


> What is the relationship between the top of the loading door and the bottom of the exhaust? If the loading door has any portion of it higher than the bottom of the pipe the stove can literally be confused as to which one is the exhaust. Also, if they are in close relationship it will adversely effect the draft, creating a low or lazy draft.


I'm not sure exactly what you mean though.
When we first made the door it was too low to add wood comfortably so we cut it higher. But that was after the backpuffing started. It backpuffs when the door is closed.We just redid the door.
Is that what you were asking?


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## Jags (May 16, 2012)

I am basically asking: how much higher is the exhaust stack from the top of the door and also the top of your primary air inlet?  The exhaust needs to be significantly higher than the air intake.  Its the whole "hot air rises" thing.  Also, is this a sealed (gasketed) stove?


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## begreen (May 16, 2012)

Moved to the non-epa stove forum.


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## bandoo (May 16, 2012)

Jags said:


> I am basically asking: how much higher is the exhaust stack from the top of the door and also the top of your primary air inlet? The exhaust needs to be significantly higher than the air intake. Its the whole "hot air rises" thing. Also, is this a sealed (gasketed) stove?


It's 12 inches from the center of the primary air inlet to the bottom of the exhaust pipe.
The top of the door is level with the exhaust.
We just redid the door to make it easier to load. Before it was lower but there was no change with the puffing with the new door shape.
It's pretty close to airtight I would say. The door is not gasketed but pretty tight.
When the stove is hot and running and the inlet is open a half inch there is no puffing. Open it another half inch and it gets puffing.
Could it maybe the upright piece off the top of the stove?
Maybe it should come out a few inches then go into angle before exiting the wall?


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## Jags (May 16, 2012)

bandoo said:


> Could it maybe the upright piece off the top of the stove?
> Maybe it should come out a few inches then go into angle before exiting the wall?


 
Dunno - possibly.  When you refer to this "back puff" is it like little mini explosions?  Or is it puffs of smoke?  Something else?  I just want to make sure we are talking about the same thing.


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## bandoo (May 16, 2012)

Jags said:


> Dunno - possibly. When you refer to this "back puff" is it like little mini explosions? Or is it puffs of smoke? Something else? I just want to make sure we are talking about the same thing.


It's small puffs of smoke chugging out like about every half second.
I didn't see fire coming out..


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## Jags (May 16, 2012)

As a test, when this thing starts puffing like the little engine that could, take a piece of tin (or something non combustible and cover about half of the exhaust stack (at the top). See if that stops the puffing. I am suspecting very low stack temps. Do you ever sweep the stack? Do you get much black or gooey stuff in the stack?


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## bandoo (May 16, 2012)

Jags said:


> As a test, when this thing starts puffing like the little engine that could, take a piece of tin (or something non combustible and cover about half of the exhaust stack (at the top). See if that stops the puffing. I am suspecting very low stack temps. Do you ever sweep the stack? Do you get much black or gooey stuff in the stack?


 
The stack is brand new stainless. The temp. when I tried it last a few days ago was 75 outside.
The last stove in the same place that had 6" pipe was iron water pipe and never got gooey stuff, just flakey stuff. You thinking double wall?
What do you think of the piece of 8" water pipe coming up from the top of the stove?
Thanks


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## begreen (May 16, 2012)

bandoo said:


> When the stove is hot and running and the inlet is open a half inch there is no puffing. Open it another half inch and it gets puffing.
> Could it maybe the upright piece off the top of the stove?
> Maybe it should come out a few inches then go into angle before exiting the wall?


 
If I understand the pictures, I think the reason that this stove is not working well as the other stove is that the flue is coming out mid-back instead of out of the top.


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## bandoo (May 16, 2012)

begreen said:


> If I understand the pictures, I think the reason that this stove is not working well as the other stove is that the flue is coming out mid-back instead of out of the top.


The pictue of the inside of the stove failed to rotate when I sent it. So it looks like it's coming out the side.
The stack comes out the top of the stove about 6" from the back.


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## fossil (May 16, 2012)

begreen said:


> If I understand the pictures, I think the reason that this stove is not working well as the other stove is that the flue is coming out mid-back instead of out of the top.


 
That's what I thought I was looking at, as well...but then I can't resolve that notion in my head with the pic with all the rocks and the non-ferrous pipe coming straight up, turning 90° and heading out.  I'm still not sure just what this stove looks like.  Rick


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## fossil (May 16, 2012)

OK, so it looks like this from the outside through the loading door...?


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## bandoo (May 16, 2012)

fossil said:


> OK, so it looks like this from the outside through the loading door...?
> 
> View attachment 67092


 
Yes that's right.


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## Jags (May 16, 2012)

Is that a damper in the rise coming off of the stove in this pic?
http://postimage.org/image/s3o82fyen/

Do you have any idea of what the body temp and stack temp of the stove is during a hard run? Magnetic thermometer?


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## Jags (May 16, 2012)

Downdraft
excessive outgassing
Air intrusion
Leaky stove
These are about the only things that can cause your symptoms. (just talking out loud, here)

Question: When you have the primary air set so that the stove is NOT puffing, do you hear a rush of air into that hole?  Is it possible that when you clamp the primary down that it is creating a nozzle or venturi effect that actually fuels the fire BETTER than with the primary open?


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## bandoo (May 16, 2012)

Jags said:


> Is that a damper in the rise coming off of the stove in this pic?
> http://postimage.org/image/s3o82fyen/ Yes that's the damper.
> 
> Do you have any idea of what the body temp and stack temp of the stove is during a hard run? Magnetic thermometer?


No but I will check. Last time I ran it it was real warm out and I ran it for about 3 hours.
If there is any leakage it would be a few mm around the door. Other than that it's totally sealed.
It's a water boiler body before they made it into a boiler.


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## begreen (May 16, 2012)

What is this, the old stove? Having the pictures here in context of the conversation would sure help.




Or is this the new stove with the door hidden? If so, it makes more sense.


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## begreen (May 16, 2012)

What is the composition of the wall surrounding this stove? Makes me nervous each time I look at this picture.


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## bandoo (May 16, 2012)

Jags said:


> Downdraft
> excessive outgassing
> Air intrusion
> Leaky stove
> ...


http://postimage.org/image/3vz1k5l2n/
I'm not sure what you mean.
There is only one air inlet on the stove and it's located outside the sauna.
When the screw in/out inlet is open about  a quarter inch or less it's ok.

The problem is starting it and having enough draft to get it going without all the puffing out the inlet.
I have to sit with it for 45 minutes nursing it so it doesn't puff too much. If I crack the door a hair the puffing stops and the air rushes in and blazes like crazy.Then I shut it down with the draft open a tiny bit it's then ok but not enough air gets to the wood so I open the inlet/draft some more and it starts puffing again so I have to go through the process again and again till it's hot enough to use. 

And also halfway through when you want to increase the heat any time you go beyond the quarter inch open it starts puffing again.

Maybe the shape of the screw in draft has something to do with it?
Or the steel pipe that comes from the top of the stove to the elbow should have been way shorter??
It's got me stumped.
.
I can take any other pictures need.


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## begreen (May 16, 2012)

Please post these images directly. The off site references are not helping.


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## bandoo (May 16, 2012)

begreen said:


> What is the composition of the wall surrounding this stove? Makes me nervous each time I look at this picture.


 
it's foamed concrete completely noncombustible.

I have been running a stove in the same place for about 20 years.
The old smaller stove (3/4 volume to this one) box shaped rusted out so we decided to use a round shape to keep the welds down and simplify construction.
The old stove had a 6" pipe/stack.

We thought sice it was so much bigger we would go to an 8" since even my VC and Hartland had 8" pipe I couldn't imagine it would be a problem.


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## bandoo (May 16, 2012)

begreen said:


> Please post these images directly. The off site references are not helping.


Would love to ,If you don't mind please tell me how to do it. I couldn't figure it out.


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## begreen (May 16, 2012)

Use the Upload a File option. The button is next to the Post Reply button. If the images are large, use the thumbnail option.


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## bandoo (May 16, 2012)




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## bandoo (May 17, 2012)

bandoo said:


> View attachment 67110


Here are the rest of the pictures. The stack is not as near to combustibles as it looks from the pictures.


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## bandoo (May 17, 2012)

Here are few better in proportion pictures now that I know how to upload them.


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## begreen (May 17, 2012)

Great, that helps. I converted them to thumbnails for easier viewing.

How is the 8" pipe joined to the 6" pipe. Are there leaks or air gaps there?

How are the walls around the stove and the stove pipe constructed?


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## bandoo (May 17, 2012)

begreen said:


> Great, that helps. I converted them to thumbnails for easier viewing.
> 
> How is the 8" pipe joined to the 6" pipe. Are there leaks or air gaps there? The old stove was all 6"
> but it was 25% smaller capacity.
> ...


They are cement block.. Actually something called etung which is foamed concrete in blocks.There is a cute little hand made wooden house above so I am really on the fire danger thing..
I will send thumbnails from now on. Thanks for telling me.


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## Jags (May 17, 2012)

Okay - in my head this is all about the draft. Your last explanation of how you start the fire proves it to me. I don't know what your options are as far as getting rid of that long horizontal run (even for testing purposes) are?


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## bandoo (May 17, 2012)

Jags said:


> Okay - in my head this is all about the draft. Your last explanation of how you start the fire proves it to me. I don't know what your options are as far as getting rid of that long horizontal run (even for testing purposes) are?


 
It's not possible to move anything at this point.
Before we put this stove in there was a smaller one with a 6" pipe with the exact horizontal as now without any puffing.
With this installation we increased the upward horizontal angle of that piece to 30 degrees.
The upright stack is more than 5 yards high.....one yard higher than the last one..


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## bandoo (May 17, 2012)

bandoo said:


> It's not possible to move anything at this point.
> Before we put this stove in there was a smaller one with a 6" pipe with the exact horizontal as now without any puffing.
> With this installation we increased the upward horizontal angle of that piece to 30 degrees.
> The upright stack is more than 5 yards high.....one yard higher than the last one..


another difference is the pipe from the top of the stove went up about 6 inches then into a srtaight piece then another elbow out the wall creating a more gradual angle rather than the 21 inch upright exiting the wall at 30 degrees..


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## Jags (May 17, 2012)

bandoo said:


> It's not possible to move anything at this point.
> Before we put this stove in there was a smaller one with a 6" pipe with the exact horizontal as now without any puffing.
> With this installation we increased the upward horizontal angle of that piece to 30 degrees.
> The upright stack is more than 5 yards high.....one yard higher than the last one..


 
5 yards high with the negative impact of a horizontal run (even at 30 degrees) is less than ideal for even the best drafting stove.  Add in the fact that you are using an 8" pipe on a mid sized stove and I can see issues rising up.  Issues that you obviously are dealing with.

Can you add height?


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## bandoo (May 17, 2012)

Jags said:


> 5 yards high with the negative impact of a horizontal run (even at 30 degrees) is less than ideal for even the best drafting stove. Add in the fact that you are using an 8" pipe on a mid sized stove and I can see issues rising up. Issues that you obviously are dealing with.
> 
> Can you add height?


 Yes I can.
Do you think I should have stayed at 6"?


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## begreen (May 17, 2012)

How is the 8" pipe joined to the 6"? Is it very well sealed at this joint?


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## Jags (May 17, 2012)

bandoo said:


> Yes I can.
> Do you think I should have stayed at 6"?


Yes, I do.  You may be able to compensate (to some degree) by adding some height to the stack.  If you want to test that theory a few bucks at the local home store and a couple of sections of the tin duct used for forced air furnace will add some height.  If it works, you know which direction to go.  If it doesn't you threw $6 down the drain.


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## bandoo (May 17, 2012)

Jags said:


> Yes, I do. You may be able to compensate (to some degree) by adding some height to the stack. If you want to test that theory a few bucks at the local home store and a couple of sections of the tin duct used for forced air furnace will add some height. If it works, you know which direction to go. If it doesn't you threw $6 down the drain.


 
They don't sell that stuff at the home stores around here. I go to  a guy who works with galvanized and stainless steel and he makes it.

I am getting ready to light it in a few hours. I wonder if there are any tests I can try?
Was it you that suggested that I block off some of the top of the stack when it starts puffing?
What do you mean "compensate to some degree".
What would be a permanent solution? Cut the stack off at the stove and replace the whole thing with 6"?


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## Jags (May 17, 2012)

Welp - covering part of the stack when the back puffing starts was an idea that popped into my head in hopes that it would reduce the capability of pulling air_ down_ the stack (thus causing a back puff). Simply a testing idea.

Compensate to some degree is "trickery". An oversized stack = less draft. Taller pipe = better draft (until a certain point).

Permanent solution would be to go 6" all the way - but that is assuming 6" will stop the back puffing.

If you are going to start this thing in the near future - you might want to try one of two things.
1.) Hair dryer (or heat gun) - set to it hottest and pointing up the stack for 5 min before lighting fire (creates a draft and preheats the stack).

2.) Using the top down fire starting method. Use the search feature, there is mucho info on how to make this happen.  And do this at the far back of the stove right below the exhaust outlet.

I would really like to know what the stove and stack temps are at when you are running full throttle. A few bucks at a hardware or home store will buy a magnetic one.


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## bandoo (May 21, 2012)

Jags said:


> Welp - covering part of the stack when the back puffing starts was an idea that popped into my head in hopes that it would reduce the capability of pulling air_ down_ the stack (thus causing a back puff). Simply a testing idea.
> 
> Compensate to some degree is "trickery". An oversized stack = less draft. Taller pipe = better draft (until a certain point).
> 
> ...


 
I used the to down fire method this time. It really heatd up the stack.
My thermometer wouldn't stick because  is made of stainless steel, but it was very hot.

About what you asked before.
I was wrong, there are little explosions with fire coming out the air inlet.

What would be the difference between smoke coming out and the little explosions, implication wise?

We are thinking of changing the shape of the inlet to a rectangle from the circle in case there is some harmonic thing happening with the round stove body.

Also thinking about putting a small restricter piece of metal inside the pipe stove where it's welded to the stove because I noticed that my VC and Hartland have 8" pipes bet at the stove they are pinched oval reducing the draft??

Any ideas?
Thanks again....


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## Jags (May 21, 2012)

The little explosions are technically a "back draft" (like the movie). You are getting more combustible gasses in the firebox than the oxygen entering the box can support and it is causing it to drag air in from someplace else (most likely your stack). The will have a negative impact on your draft as it is fighting the whole hot air rises vs "I need oxygen".

Gonna have to figure out how to make the draft work.

Did the top down startup help with the initial drafting? Stove start up faster?

Edit: are you by chance using very small splits?


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## bandoo (May 21, 2012)

Jags said:


> The little explosions are technically a "back draft" (like the movie). You are getting more combustible gasses in the firebox than the oxygen entering the box can support and it is causing it to drag air in from someplace else (most likely your stack). The will have a negative impact on your draft as it is fighting the whole hot air rises vs "I need oxygen".
> 
> Gonna have to figure out how to make the draft work. We usually crack the stove door open when we start it and that seems to run fine then without the puffing...
> 
> ...


 To start there is some kindling but then we throw some big stuff in.

What do you think of changing the shape of the inlet? I guess making it smaller isn't such a great idea. 
When the door is cracked open during starting it goes great. Then shutting the door and just a tiny inlet it's fine..
The fire chamber is pretty big...


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## Jags (May 21, 2012)

What happens when you open the air inlet ALL THE WAY open??


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## bandoo (May 21, 2012)

It will start to puff.


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## Jags (May 21, 2012)

bandoo said:


> It will start to puff.


Yeppers - you gots a draft issue.  Maybe add another air inlet??


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## bandoo (May 21, 2012)

How about making the one I have bigger,or is 2 in different positions more effective?
So I probably don't need more pipe? Is the 8" pipe hurting me?
Thanks again...


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## Jags (May 22, 2012)

I am taking a SWAG here so you may want other opinions:  Yes, I think the 8" is hurting draft.  I think you need additional height (or get rid of the horizontal run) and I am questionable on the primary air inlet.  I just don't know what to think about the air inlet.  If you clamp it down, no puffs, if you open it up, puffs, open the door, no puffs.  Makes me think that you may need more air than the primary is allowing for, but again, its confusing.

I would start with one and then move forward if the problem is not resolved, leaving the air adjustment as the last mod.  Simply one dudes opinion.


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## bandoo (May 22, 2012)

By 'air adjustment last', do you mean an additional air inlet?
I can't get rid of the horizontal.
Also the 8" is doing what, like lowering the velocity of the updraft?
At this point I can only add height and make a additional air inlet in the door.
How would more height help?
      well yo the only dude answering....thanks


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## Jags (May 22, 2012)

bandoo said:


> Also the 8" is doing what, like lowering the velocity of the updraft?


 
Zactly!
I would either increase stack height (if staying with the 8") or go to 6".  See how it goes.  If it doesn't fix it, increase primary air.


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## bandoo (May 22, 2012)

I just put the new pipe in for about $400+ (stainless steel) so I can't really do that one..

The guy who built the stove welded that big piece of 8" steel water pipe to the top of the stove. It connected to my old horizontal about halfway along the horizontal to the stack and from there 6" pipe to a T an then to the top. It puffed the same. So I figured it was big into small was the prob so I bit the bullet and replaced the rest of the 6 with 8 so it was one size..
The 6 was getting pretty deteriorated anyway. When it continued to puff I started the thread.... 

If I increase the height then do I overcome the disability of the 8"? Or is that a fundamental prob now even if it alleviates the puff? Am I losing heat from it?

Since opening the door a crack stops the puff how does the additional height help? When it's burning and I open the door it really starts to roar..
just asking..............


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## Jags (May 22, 2012)

Extending the flue will help increase the draft (hot air rises thingy).  Opening the door a crack introduces MORE air and allows the smoke to exit more easily.


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## bandoo (May 22, 2012)

OK,
I will keep you posted..............
thanks again


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