# Cant hook as a log lifter/stand?



## bogydave (Oct 19, 2012)

Can I change the tooth in the cant hook & make it easier/better to lift logs for cutting?
I used it today with mixed success. Saved cutting, & rolling the log then cutting the bottom on several logs today. Some wouldn't stay up off the ground, but all in all I never nicked the ground when cutting & the chain stayed sharp all day.





Have this cant hook:



Stihl sells this log stand, to attach to the cant hook, any reviews on how well it works?
Seem for my situation, I should have had one for a while. save on the back & time rolling logs & sometimes save the chain.


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## MasterMech (Oct 19, 2012)

Dave, that stand works pretty good if the timberjack idea works for you.


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## bogydave (Oct 19, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Dave, that stand works pretty good if the timberjack idea works for you.


 
The Stihl attachment is $40. I'm thinking that where I cut now, it may help.
But hate to buy something else to haul out wood cutting if it's not going to be beneficial.
Maybe I should just try it, since I'm cutting on a dirt/rock road. 
I spend too much time trying to talk myself "into or out of"  gimicks & sometimes should give it a try & move forward .  
Pretty soon I'll look like an OSHA wood cutter, too much stuff to take to the woods to get wood, but safe. LOL


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## MasterMech (Oct 19, 2012)

bogydave said:


> The Stihl attachment is $40. I'm thinking that where I cut now, it may help.
> But hate to buy something else to haul out wood cutting if it's not going to be beneficial.
> Maybe I should just try it, since I'm cutting on a dirt/rock road.
> I spend too much time trying to talk myself "into or out of" gimicks & sometimes should give it a try & move forward .
> Pretty soon I'll look like an OSHA wood cutter, too much stuff to take to the woods to get wood, but safe. LOL


I hear ya. Running a crew-cab mid-size truck (big truck is currently down), I minimize what I take with me. Otherwise I'd cut all-day and have no way to get it all home.


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## lukem (Oct 19, 2012)

I have a log jack but don't really care for it. When I try to lift a log (usually to get a chain under it) the "foot" just sinks into the ground under the weight of the log. The sandy loam soil we have around here doesn't offer a lot of support.

If you are have hard ground or work with smaller/lighter stuff it might work a lot better.  After re-reading it sounds like you cut on a road so it might work out well.


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## jeff_t (Oct 19, 2012)

What do you mean by 'change the tooth'? Like put a peavey point on it? Please elaborate.

Never used the stand, but I assume it is well built like the rest of their stuff. It would probably do what you want, on a solid surface.

How much does that hook cost painted orange? The blue one was painful enough , but a good investment.


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## Jags (Oct 19, 2012)

Dave - for the size of stuff that I see you dealing with, I would think a timberjack would be a cool tool.  In big stuff I use the "cut then roll over" method, but with the smaller stuff the timberjack gets used.


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## bogydave (Oct 19, 2012)

jeff_t said:


> What do you mean by 'change the tooth'? Like put a peavey point on it? Please elaborate.
> 
> Never used the stand, but I assume it is well built like the rest of their stuff. It would probably do what you want, on a solid surface.
> 
> How much does that hook cost painted orange? The blue one was painful enough , but a good investment.


 
Before I found the foot that attaches to the cant hook, I thought you had to pull the dog that digs into the log on the end of the cant hook & put in some kind of stand.

Stihl $109. Ordered online & picked it up at the nearby Stihl shop.
$40 for the foot attachment.

http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/accessories/forestry-tools/



Jags said:


> Dave - for the size of stuff that I see you dealing with, I would think a timberjack would be a cool tool. In big stuff I use the "cut then roll over" method, but with the smaller stuff the timberjack gets used.


 
Will look at a timber jack & see if I need to add that to the wood processing tool chest


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## Backwoods Savage (Oct 19, 2012)

Dave, I hate those things and have nothing good to say about them. Much, much easier to roll the log onto one of the limbs you've cut off. Better yet is to cut some firewood length from the limbs and use 4-6 or more. Roll the log onto those and you have the log off the ground which is what you are striving for. In addition, it will save you about $100


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## bogydave (Oct 19, 2012)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Dave, I hate those things and have nothing good to say about them. Much, much easier to roll the log onto one of the limbs you've cut off. Better yet is to cut some firewood length from the limbs and use 4-6 or more. Roll the log onto those and you have the log off the ground which is what you are striving for. In addition, it will save you about $100


 
Now that's an idea I wish I'd thought of. I could cut some , leave them where I cut along side the trail & throw them out when I go there cutting.

I have the cant hook (in the above pic) to roll the logs up on the limbs. Bought it last year. Saved my butt & back several times moving, un-sticking & handling some of the bigger birch logs. It bunged  on the ATV now. 

Anytime I have a wood cutting question, issue or problem I should just call you direct. 
You'd save me money & frustration. 
We Need a :
Backwoods Savage : "HOTLINE"   ( 24/7/365 )  

I ordered & paid for one of those gizmos to attach to the cant hook already, $39.95 but will incorporate the limbs in the next trip out.
May send it back un-used , (probably be $30 return shipping LOL   )


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## amateur cutter (Oct 19, 2012)

I've got the log rite version with the stand, & like it pretty well. I leave it on the hook most of the time, & if I just want to roll the log I just grab farther over so the stand doesn't hit. I think this may be the one time I disagree with Dennis.  A C


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## punchy (Oct 21, 2012)

i have a logrite with stand, looks very similar to the stihl.  i dont use it every time, but do use it when practical.  bigger stuff.  i do like it, do not regret it.


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## AJS56 (Oct 22, 2012)

Interesting thread for me.  I'm not too clear on the tool terminology/use though.  The can't hook is mainly used to roll logs over, is that correct?  Then I could see as (I think) Dennis suggested - use the can't hook to roll the log onto the cut pieces to elevate it for bucking w/o getting the saw into the dirt.  Around here I think the "stand" attachment would sink into the ground much of the time.


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## BIGDADDY (Oct 22, 2012)

I have one but not a stihl. Use it every time I cut in the woods. I've used it more then once to get a pinched bar loose. Great tool to keep the chain out of the ground.


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## Kenster (Oct 24, 2012)

I've got a timberjack and use it a lot.  We have soft, sandy soil around here so I just carry an eight inch length of 2 x 6 and the jack never sinks into the ground.


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## bogydave (Oct 24, 2012)

Kenster said:


> I've got a timberjack and use it a lot. We have soft, sandy soil around here so I just carry an eight inch length of 2 x 6 and the jack never sinks into the ground.


 
Good idea.
Maybe I'll paint a piece of 3/4" X 8" X 8" plywood flo-orange & have it with me.

Now I'm skidding the logs to a trail that is rocky & pretty solid. (Frozen solid now)

Stand should be here today or tomorrow.
May get to do some cutting next week. Forecast to be clear & cold for at least 7 more days.


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## zzr7ky (Oct 24, 2012)

Hi -

I used that type of log jack for processing grapple loads for my older relatives when I was in school.  It worked pretty well for similar sized logs on flat ground, especially frozen ground.

Since I buck and load the rounds whenre I drop them I don't haul the thing around any more.  I do roll logs up onto 4-6" diameter limbs to get it off the ground for bucking. 

Good luck,
Mike


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## Flatbedford (Oct 24, 2012)

I bought this Peavey Timberjack a few years ago.




I took of the jack after the first time I tried it and haven't used it since. It makes a pretty good Cant hook without the jack. I'm with Dennis on the Timberjack.


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## Nixon (Oct 24, 2012)

Dave, 
I'm a little late to this thread . But ,I bought a cheap timber jack (northern tool. ). I used it maybe twice,took the stand off ,and now use it as a cant hook . It's just easier for me to cut most of the way through a log , then just roll it and finish the cuts . I'll likely buy a log rite as I like the quality of my hookaroon  by them .


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## Gasifier (Oct 24, 2012)

I have never used one of these things. I have seen and heard a bit about them but do not know if it would be that beneficial. I usually go down the log every 18 or 20 inches and just cut about half way through the log and then roll it over and cut through the other half. Seems to work fine. Sometimes if I have a larger tree I want propped up I can drop a small one across in front of it and then drop the bigger one on top of it after I have limbed it up. But, the woods I am working has way to many trees in it so this is not a problem. It needs a thinning out.

So do these timberjacks really help out that much? Like I said, I have never used one.


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## kevin j (Oct 24, 2012)

I used the timberjack. POS bent right away. Used a better quality of same concept, the biggest issue I had was that to lift a log you have to roll it slightly. If it is straight trunk and already limbed that works. Mostly I get big limbs in all directions and very hard to roll at same time as lifting.
I added a pivoting foot (I think about 5x8 3/16 plate, verticla angles about 1 inch, and 3/8 bolt as pivot)  to my cant hook so it can lift slightly with less pivoting. It works a lot better.
will try and attach a pic


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## smokinj (Oct 24, 2012)

Its about like a moped its fun to ride until you got to get some where.


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## Backwoods Savage (Oct 24, 2012)

amateur cutter said:


> I've got the log rite version with the stand, & like it pretty well. I leave it on the hook most of the time, & if I just want to roll the log I just grab farther over so the stand doesn't hit. I think this may be the one time I disagree with Dennis.  A C


 
When you get over this way some time you can then own 2 of them.


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## weatherguy (Oct 24, 2012)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Dave, I hate those things and have nothing good to say about them. Much, much easier to roll the log onto one of the limbs you've cut off. Better yet is to cut some firewood length from the limbs and use 4-6 or more. Roll the log onto those and you have the log off the ground which is what you are striving for. In addition, it will save you about $100


I bought one and hate it too, thanks for the tip Dennis, I never thought of that.


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## goosegunner (Oct 28, 2012)

Check baileys for the log rite stand attachment. They make those or Stihl, and I don't think I paid 40 for my stand.

gg


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## varna (Oct 29, 2012)

Got tired of bending over and hitting the ground too so I made this for my skid steer. Wife runs the skid, I run the saw...


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## Gasifier (Oct 29, 2012)

varna said:


> Got tired of bending over and hitting the ground too so I made this for my skid steer. Wife runs the skid, I run the saw...


 
That is sweet varna. I am going to have to come up with some kind of grapple for the Kubota in the future.


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## jeff_t (Oct 29, 2012)

goosegunner said:


> Check baileys for the log rite stand attachment. They make those or Stihl, and I don't think I paid 40 for my stand.
> 
> gg



It's $33.99 from Baileys. Don't forget that Dave deals in Alaskan dollars.


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## xman23 (Oct 29, 2012)

Timberjacks, some hate um some like me don't buck up a tree with out taking it into the woods with me. Just another tool like wedges, hydro floor jack etc. I don't use it all the time, but with the right size log, it's the extra guy holding the log off the ground for me to lop off round after round. If the log is to big and heavy it can be just to hard to lift them. I think the issue here is they are there all not the same. Some built to weak, some have legs that are to long, or the handels that are to short.

 Archimedes said “Give me a place to stand and with a lever I will move the whole world.”  

Tom


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Oct 30, 2012)

I have the Stihl unit with the stand and it's helps my back. I use it all the time!


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## turbocruiser (Nov 1, 2012)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Dave, I hate those things and have nothing good to say about them. Much, much easier to roll the log onto one of the limbs you've cut off. Better yet is to cut some firewood length from the limbs and use 4-6 or more. Roll the log onto those and you have the log off the ground which is what you are striving for. In addition, it will save you about $100


 

Haha, I'm starting to realize that it isn't hard to tell what you really think Dennis!  Let me really respectfully give another perspective and then at the same time stress that I have no where near the experience that you do yet with processing wood.  With really large logs I agree about cutting them through 1/2way and then rolling them 1/2way to do the other 1/2way but for everything the timberjack can get its hook into, the timberjack is incredibly helpful with the steep terrain I'm often cutting on; previously when I attempted to use lengths of limbs to support the main trunk off of the ground I found the whole thing really likely to roll around and I definitely didn't like that.  However when the timberjack was hooked in it tended to help by having the handle and by having the stand sort of anchor in and prevent the rolling that made the operation unsafe otherwise.  Anyways just another $.02.  Thanks.


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## Gasifier (Nov 1, 2012)

Take a good look at this thread that Infinitymike posted back in January. Looks like it is a handy tool. Especially to be able to use it off another tree or trailer hitch. The company has several different tools. I have no experience with them. But think if anyone is looking at buying a tool like this, they would want to consider this one as well.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/daddy-got-a-new-toy.80572/

Here is a link to the company website.

http://www.woodchucktool.com/woodchuck


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## muncybob (Nov 1, 2012)

The Woodchuck is a cool looking tool and if I didn't already have a Peavy it would be tempting, but in the end I'm with Dennis' KISS approach. It seems to work fine for me and I have yet to be unable to "unpinch" a bar using my wedges...and this saves me a few bucks too which is why I got into this hobby/pastime in the 1st place


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## Gasifier (Nov 1, 2012)

muncybob said:


> The Woodchuck is a cool looking tool and if I didn't already have a Peavy it would be tempting, but in the end I'm with Dennis' KISS approach. It seems to work fine for me and I have yet to be unable to "unpinch" a bar using my wedges...and this saves me a few bucks too which is why I got into this hobby/pastime in the 1st place


 
Yup. I am still cutting half way through and then rolling the log over myself. Seems to work. I just remembered Mike's thread and thought I would share it with anyone considering one of these tools. It is amazing how much is on this site that I still have not read. I see something different while looking around in the threads and notice it was 4 months ago and I never even saw it. Of course I wasn't around much during the warmer months. Too much to do outside!


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## Flatbedford (Nov 1, 2012)

muncybob said:


> The Woodchuck is a cool looking tool and if I didn't already have a Peavy it would be tempting, but in the end I'm with Dennis' KISS approach. It seems to work fine for me and I have yet to be unable to "unpinch" a bar using my wedges...and this saves me a few bucks too which is why I got into this hobby/pastime in the 1st place


 
That's the way I feel too. Cool, but I'd rather spend the $$ on other stuff.


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## nate379 (Nov 1, 2012)

Same here, or if the log is small enough I'll lift it up and stick a round under it.



Gasifier said:


> I have never used one of these things. I have seen and heard a bit about them but do not know if it would be that beneficial. I usually go down the log every 18 or 20 inches and just cut about half way through the log and then roll it over and cut through the other half. Seems to work fine. Sometimes if I have a larger tree I want propped up I can drop a small one across in front of it and then drop the bigger one on top of it after I have limbed it up. But, the woods I am working has way to many trees in it so this is not a problem. It needs a thinning out.
> 
> So do these timberjacks really help out that much? Like I said, I have never used one.


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## bogydave (Nov 1, 2012)

Got mine. attached it to the cant hook. On the ATV ready to go.
May get a chance to try it out this year if weather holds & the body says OK to go.


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## Jags (Nov 1, 2012)

bogydave said:


> Got mine. attached it to the cant hook. On the ATV ready to go.
> May get a chance to try it out this year if weather holds & the body says OK to go.


 
Dave - for the average size of the stuff you whack up, I think you are gonna like it.  And if not - well heck, I have wasted more than $50 belling up to a bar.


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## Thistle (Nov 1, 2012)

Had a timberjack in garage at parent's property for 31 yrs,havent used it intact for probably 20 now.Not worth a damn really,though I did unbolt the ''feet' & it works good as a 2nd cant hook to be used in alongside my 5ft peavey with the massive hickory handle....


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## Thistle (Nov 1, 2012)

Flatbedford said:


> I bought this Peavey Timberjack a few years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

Mine is kinda similar,but has angle iron 'legs' that splay out on each side with 1 more horizontal piece that's the foot.The whole thing bolts to the main part.Quite sturdy & stable but I still dont like the design,so I removed it & use it as a cant hook,like yours.


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## Backwoods Savage (Nov 1, 2012)

turbocruiser said:


> Haha, I'm starting to realize that it isn't hard to tell what you really think Dennis! Let me really respectfully give another perspective and then at the same time stress that I have no where near the experience that you do yet with processing wood. With really large logs I agree about cutting them through 1/2way and then rolling them 1/2way to do the other 1/2way but for everything the timberjack can get its hook into, the timberjack is incredibly helpful with the steep terrain I'm often cutting on; previously when I attempted to use lengths of limbs to support the main trunk off of the ground I found the whole thing really likely to roll around and I definitely didn't like that. However when the timberjack was hooked in it tended to help by having the handle and by having the stand sort of anchor in and prevent the rolling that made the operation unsafe otherwise. Anyways just another $.02. Thanks.


 
Turbo, it should not be difficult to tell what I really think because that is what I write! The timberjack pictured above is what ours looks like. I've tried to give it away several times but I think it is still setting in one of the sheds out back. I tried using it as a cant hook but it just did not work worth a hoot. I could have revamped it but did not really need it so there it sits. The more worthless piece of equipment I've ever had. I think you can tell what I think about this thing!

Also for the sawing 1/2 way through. I never stop at half way through. I go much further so that when rolling the log over I need to do very little sawing to complete the cut. And if the log does not want to stop rolling, just put a block in its way or use the cant hook.


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## Cluttermagnet (Nov 2, 2012)

I have two different log rolling tools. One is a cant hook just like Dennis has.
I waited until I found one at a good price- 5 bucks from a Craig's List ad.
BTW this one also has the bracket for the jack stand, but that had long
since been removed and did not come with this tool. For 5 bucks I sure
didn't mind. This is a great log roller!






My other tool is more of a timber jack. A friend gave it to me. He
used to be into wood burning for many years, got tired of it all.






You can see the 2nd point on the handle down at the bend. The 'jack'
part is built in, not removable like on some tools. It is a length of
angle iron at the very end. This one is also a great log roller, and
has slightly more leverage than the cant hook. I use the stand part,
but only on occasion- not near as often as I might have guessed.
But when you do use it, it can be real handy indeed!

Mostly I also cut halfway through or more and then turn the log.


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## AJS56 (Nov 20, 2012)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Better yet is to cut some firewood length from the limbs and use 4-6 or more. Roll the log onto those and you have the log off the ground which is what you are striving for.


  This also how I have been doing it for the most part.  But sometimes logs are a little big/heavy, and a lever to roll them onto thse cut pieces would be helpful.  So would a "can't hook" be the tool to use for rolling in this fashion?


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## Flatbedford (Nov 20, 2012)

Yes. A cant hook is pretty much made for rolling logs.


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## Backwoods Savage (Nov 20, 2012)

AJS56 said:


> This also how I have been doing it for the most part. But sometimes logs are a little big/heavy, and a lever to roll them onto thse cut pieces would be helpful. So would a "can't hook" be the tool to use for rolling in this fashion?


 
Most certainly. Many times I'll simply lay down a couple small rounds I've cut from the limbs and roll the log onto them for cutting.


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