# Osburn 1800i BayWood Fireplace Story



## 67ref

- bought the place like this, major sag in the floor in front of the heart extention, out by 1 and 1/4 "


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## 67ref

- eventually got to it and started the living room "reno", tear down is always a lot of fun.


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## 67ref

- ok progress, as long as I look like I know what I'm doing, everything should be just fine!


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## 67ref

- and then you get that feeling of ... oh no! ... what have I done?


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## 67ref

- whats that honey? no no ... we're fine, I saw this on "Holmes on Homes" once, no worries!


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## struggle

Is it finished yet or are we seeing the start to something in progress? Looks like you are on your way.


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## 67ref

- and then, there was some relief, the floor still out 1 and 1/4 " all that weight gone!


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## 67ref

- all cleaned up, take notice of the sag in the floor in front toward the left


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## 67ref

- nice, moldy drywall, rotten wood, open it all up and guess what? ... more surprises!


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## 67ref

- wonder why the paint wouldn't stick to the drywall anymore? ... oh, I got it, rain water ran down this wall .. good thing we talked them down in price for this old house!


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## 67ref

- you thought you had problems, notice the white string on the floor showing the sag in the floor?


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## 67ref

- extracted many litres of water with a dehumidifier, roof shingles redone, now beginning repair process


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## 67ref

- had to watch a couple of reruns of "this old house" but I figured it out ... almost expert status now!


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## 67ref

- nice! ... left it like this for the most part of the summer ... it was just too nice to cover up just yet!


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## 67ref

- after a lot of naggin from the other half ... eventually, the drywall had to go up, luckily for me, I had already read that book!


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## 67ref

- one coat, two coats, three coats, four coats ... I'm now on some new meds thanks to my doc!


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## 67ref

- ok, so lots of drywall repair all around entire room, plenty of primer applied, painted the ceiling,
now down to the basement to fix that saggin floor.


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## 67ref

- oh you thought this was going to be easy? ... ha, as luck would have it the furnace had to be taken apart and moved over by 1 foot


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## 67ref

- I have never dealt with anything furnace related, other then we bought a new one when we moved in,
so I take pictures as to figure how it all goes back together.


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## 67ref

- bit of plumbing, some electrical, all cleaned up and re-routed in order to make room for where the jacks will go!


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## 67ref

- say "hello" to my little friend! ... take that you bad terrible sagging floor joists! ... 1 and 1/4" be gone!


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## 67ref

- nice, floor cranked back up to where it should be, getting the furnace back together, blocked out the joists


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## 67ref

- seem to be missing several pics from when the whole furnace room got completed, ductwork all modified and back together, joists blocked out, electrical neatly tucked away ... stuff like that.


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## 67ref

- I swear ... I do "not" have a furnace fetish! ... but given that it's going to be my secondary heating, it deserves it's due respect, plus a new filter!


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## 67ref

- bit of paint on the walls, keeps the wife off my back for now, proudly explained that the sag in the floor is gone,
think I bought myself some more time, now need to figure out how to build that "existing" hearth extention


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## 67ref

- hearth slab stones from Renostone have been ordered 






- can anyone tell me if I "must have" plywood on top of the hearth or will the cement board be enough to hold the 21 x 21 x 1.5 slabs ?


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## kjklosek

Frame out with 2 X 4 and 3/4" CDX plywood.

Use thinset to adhere cement board and then your stone.

J.P.


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## 67ref

- thanks! 3/4 CDX it is then ...


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## 67ref




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## ansehnlich1

Hey not bad for one weekend, what are you going to do next weekend?

Ha, what a mess you had there, and the amount of time and work looks to be quite a bit. Please do continue to take pics, can't wait to see it done.

Nice work!


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## 67ref

- got a little further along, ready for more cement board and fasten slabs


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## 67ref

- was supposed to be installed today but it got pushed out into next week


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## Shari

Just a question:  Have you checked the R-value of your hearth and front clearances?  I specifically ask about the hearth because of the 2x4's in there and the front clearances because it looks like you have a piece of carpeting laying there - is the carpet far enough away to meet installation requirements?

Shari


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## 67ref

there is a row of 12x12 tiles going in front of the heart extention.
the Osburn 1800i because of it's bayview feature ends up sticking out 10.5 inches, therefor requiring further extention on the floor.

the carpeting is the old rugs we tore out and are not staying, the floor is to be finihsed at a later time and won't be carpeting.

the clearances of the 2x4 are as per the required requirements of the specific Osburn models, according to the instructions,
which was approved by the building code and listed on the permit.

I had added some steel studs because the combustable materials (2x4) would not allow to be placed close enough
to hold onto the edges of the rockboard and it needed to come in a bit to give it some support for when the backplate
meets up with it flush.

it was 10" to the sides and 14" to the top from the base of the body insert.

It's being installed tomorrow and then I have to call the inspector for an appointment.
I myself want to be 100% sure, it's safe to use and built to code, that's why I won't be putting any
scratch coat and finishing on it until I have an approved stamp on the whole deal.

all the paperwork that is being signed off on is being forwarded to our insurance company.


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## 67ref

Couple more pics since install, still have a few things to finalize ofcourse!


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## 67ref

- nice new rain cap at the top end, like bling for your home!


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## 67ref

- show room model, last in stock or wait longer for unit, surround had a couple of mild scratches on it,
rather then just paiting over it, I requested that they just leave me the paint can and I would take care of it myself.
wet-sanded the scratches out with 1400 and took a scotchpad to the whole thing before giving it two light coats.


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## 67ref

- and a little fire to start, nothing too big just yet. gotta cure the paint please!


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## 67ref

I'll get a couple more pics up as I progress,

I'm doing the Sheet Metal Block-Off plate next couple of days,
so we'll see how that goes and i'll post some pics of it aswell.

surround should go up after that and then we're of to finishing the facing with some spliced brick from Renofit.


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## begreen

Coming along nicely 67. How's she heating for ya?


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## 67ref

two smoke alarms later .... that paint really does smell doesn't it ?

no smoking, just the heat hitting the ceiling and I guess with the paint fumes, the alarm went off.
we had a window open here and there, it all worked out.

so far not too bad on the heating, furnace has stopped running and I was keeping the colder part
of the houose down the hallway where the therm stat is located at a comfortable 72.

however, this is only the second and third burn, with not even all the surround or block off plate in,
small burns for now, really do love the look of how those flames slow down and ignition coming
out of the air tubes.

were just taking it easy for now until we get the whole thing completed, kind of trying it out
with not everything installed, including the blower.

should be getting it together this weekend but I also had a primary sump pump failure on Saturday morning.
so that's keeping me busy as well. trying to nagotiate some talks with the old pump.  it's on strike at the moment!


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## 67ref

- Block Off plates fabrication, special thanks to gd for the sheetmetal!


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## raybonz

Great looking stove and good job on all the mechanicals involved.. Very interesting post with all the progress pics..

Thanx for posting!

Ray


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## d.n.f.

Wow, what an ordeal.  Nice pics.


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## 67ref

nice heat!  took a little while to get up to temp but when it did, it stayed all night long,
well into the morning ... Oil Furnace hasn't run since.

got up to 29.5c in the living room last night, 22 this morning with large coals.
couple of logs and were holding the house comfortably with 24c.

we are very pleased with the Osburn 1800i BayWood so far.
would like to have the fan kick in at a lower temp.

the facing and mantle are going to wait past the holidays into the newyear.
taking a break for now.


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## 67ref




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## brink

Beautiful job! I am new to this site and just installed an Osbrun 1800i also. I am going to be re-doing the original brick surround and mantle this summer and you have given me some great ideas. I am wondering where / how you ran the blower power cord? It is not visable in any of the pics unless I missed something.


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## billkline

Mr. Fire Honor Society,

Interesting string of pictures. Big job, big mess. Looks pretty good intermediately now that you have sheetrock back on and painted.  I'm curious what you did inside that wall, as I couldn't see clearly in the pictures, just that the chimney was obscured before the framing went up.  As this is always one of the parts of a chimney I hardly ever get to inspect, and where a big share of the structural fires related to fireplaces occur, I hope you didn't do what I thought it looked like... tarpaper or some tarred board between the chimney and the framing. Is there at least an inch of clear air space between the wood and the chimney? 
My son-in-law recently had all the sheetrock off around his room with the fireplace. We found no clearance between the framing and chimney, and the plate across the lintel buried in mortar. He asked the sheetrock crew to leave that uncovered so he could fix it, but they covered it back up anyway. Now they are scared to use their fireplace.


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## billkline

Oh me, Oh my! Now that I've gotten past page 1, I see the rest of the pictures. It looks really nice! You have a very pretty, efficient stove. It will doubtless do a nice job of heating your house. I will be highly surprised if it doesn't burn your house down!  PLEASE STOP. To sit on that hearth, that stove needs 18" legs under it!! And the wood framing on the face around the stove is a NO-NO To be perfectly frank, this is one of the scariest installations I have seen in 31 years of seeing scary installations

And Brink, if you read this, PLEASE don't redo yours this way!


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## brink

Hey Chim Cheree,
Just curious about your comment about needing 18 inch legs. I know that you know it's an insert. But are you concerned about the 2x4 wood framing under the hearth stone below the blower unit? Thanks for the warning!


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## billkline

Yes, I am concerned about the wood under the hearty. Fire codes such as NFPA 211, or your local building code, IRC, BOCA, CABO, or whatever, all call for there to be no wood at all anywhere beneath the hearth extension. So I would recommend taking out the wood that was under the old hearth, drilling some holes for rebar horizontally out from the existing chimney where the hearth used to be, in the floor space, putting a steel form plate across the bottom of the framed opening thru the floor, and pouring about 6 inches of concrete there. Get the rebars in it to support its weight on the chimney, not the floor.. Then build a masonry  hearth. It could be lightweight masonry, hollow blocks taking most of the space, and a nice facing like you have now.

The other glaring problem is the wood firring on the face of the fireplace. There is not supposed to be any framing wood, or wood at all except  trim, in contact with the chimney. Everything looked pretty good when you tore it out the first time. I couldn't tell when you put it back if you had maintained proper clearances, but improper clearances there are a major cause of structural fires.

I hope this is helpful. I'm all for heating with wood, SAFELY. My house burned down from a faulty installation when I was 8 yrs old. I don't want to see that happen to anyone!


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## 67ref

brink said:
			
		

> Beautiful job! I am new to this site and just installed an Osbrun 1800i also. I am going to be re-doing the original brick surround and mantle this summer and you have given me some great ideas. I am wondering where / how you ran the blower power cord? It is not visable in any of the pics unless I missed something.



Brink, the power cord was routed to the left side behind the surround plate to a point where it exceeds the 10" to any combustibles,
through the framing, plywood, rockboard and hearth stone a hole large enough to fit the plug was fabricated, the hole was then
filled in with 3M fire barrier.

cord below runs to an electical outlet which was feed through the wall on the left side down to the basement hooking into
existing electical which in fact was already the old electrical from the previous job.

best of luck with all of your 1800i
we absolutely love our unit.


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## 67ref

chimcheree said:
			
		

> Mr. Fire Honor Society,
> 
> Interesting string of pictures. Big job, big mess. Looks pretty good intermediately now that you have sheetrock back on and painted.  I'm curious what you did inside that wall, as I couldn't see clearly in the pictures, just that the chimney was obscured before the framing went up.  As this is always one of the parts of a chimney I hardly ever get to inspect, and where a big share of the structural fires related to fireplaces occur, I hope you didn't do what I thought it looked like... tarpaper or some tarred board between the chimney and the framing. Is there at least an inch of clear air space between the wood and the chimney?
> My son-in-law recently had all the sheetrock off around his room with the fireplace. We found no clearance between the framing and chimney, and the plate across the lintel buried in mortar. He asked the sheetrock crew to leave that uncovered so he could fix it, but they covered it back up anyway. Now they are scared to use their fireplace.



Mr. chimcheree,

the handle is "67ref" not Mr. Fire Honor Society

in reviewing of your comment it is my personal opinion that you are simply attempting to instill unnecessary fear in people.
you may very well operate a business of Chimney installations but this job was build according to specs and permits and has been
100% signed of on my both installation WETT certification and Ontario Building Permits.

From your comments, including that you failed to view all photos, it's become clear to me that you did not notice
this is an existing masonry fireplace, where an insert was added, seems to me you think somehow the wall was closed up and there is a tube in there somewhere.

This was all put backtogether as previous build, it was a repair process on the wall.
the white face brick in the first photo is cosmetics, there is rough in masonry chamber behind that wall,
within that cavity of the chimney is now a 6" approved liner taking the flames and heat out to the top,
any fire would never reach anything within the wall, unless where your from, fire burns through concrete and bricks.

I'm not sure what to tell you, your missing something here!
this is all signed off on from the permits office!

your comments are not appreciated at all, particular the "STOP NOW" and that I will be burning down the house.
thank you for those pleasent comments, nothing better then insulting others with fear.


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## 67ref

Mr. chimcheree,
Secondly, you have no idea what you are talking about .... point blank!

This is an Osburn 1800i insert which is approved to be installed into an existing masonry fireplace!
it does not require by code to have 18" legs on it you uneducated indivudual ! (and I'm being nice here)
this unit is not available with 18" legs nor is is an option, it's a fricken insert man!


You are adrressing the wrong person about the install, Brinks photos and install is yet to follow.


your next comment: "Yes, I am concerned about the wood under the hearty. Fire codes such as NFPA 211, or your local building code, IRC, BOCA, CABO, or whatever, all call for there to be no wood at all anywhere beneath the hearth extension."

first of all, this has all been carefully drawn out and sumitted to Building Permits office and it was signed of on,
even got some comments on job well done and one slight correction.

this job was done in Ontario Canada and perhaps Fire codes on your planet are different but this was all done
as a repair/replace process, codes were followed and signed off on.

There is an entire existing masonry chimney which is exterior going into the house, wood framing is part of a home,
it's how it comes into the home and rotten beams were simply replaced, insulation added and drywall, paint finished the applications.

I've become so angry with your uneducated comments !
pardon my frustrations !

to clarify" the existing masonry was not tampered with, it's in tact and was not openend during demolition,
the heart extention was build "as per code with a permit and signed off on as approved" using 2X4 wooden framing,
it is covered with Durock board sealed with cement at the seams and has huge heart stones cemented on top of that,
there is no place for anything fire related to end up anywhere near the wood framing.

the existing masonry and hearth were a raised stepup into the fireplace cavity,
clearly one can see in the photos that it had to be build up to meet it's masonry ledge and trust me,
I inquired about whether such is allowed and I was told it was by officials whom granted me this permit to perform this work.

as a matter of a fact, the building inspector actually recommened that I added a folded piece of metal ductwork sheet
where the insert meets the hearth extention, so below the 2" thick stone, is a metal barrier to prevent any hot ambers
to fall down in between to anything wood related, now also learn that all seams were filled with concrete thus leaving
no way in down below as it's incased by non-combustible materials.

lastly !
your comments: "maintained proper clearances, but improper clearances there are a major cause of structural fires."
and "The other glaring problem is the wood firring on the face of the fireplace. There is not supposed to be any framing wood ..."



There is a 1" clearance on all the wood to the existing masonry brick and block,
and I'll repeat "signed off on by building permits office"

perhaps you do not clearly understand when they say so many inches to all sides to non-combustible materials!
this applications was build with a couple extra inches to any combustibles and where anything was near it was protected
with metal and has been approved pre and post installation.


Your comments upset me a great deal, particular where you come on here and yell to "STOP IT" and as rude as you can be
start advertising for others to not build as I have.

the word is "IGNORANT"
but because you've successfully managed to instill fear .... now I'm going to have to go back to the Building Permits Office
and get them to review my files and give me yet again another "APPROVED" stamp to make all what you've just created in my mind,
go away for my own sake.

Thank you for your concerns and thousand thanks for all your uneducated comments!
Next time take the time to actually look at pictures before commenting, that would help a great deal.

It's an approved insert man !
give me a break with the required 18" legs on it ... really ? TOO MUCH YOU ARE 

It's an approved firebox build by a company that list this unit at an INSERT,
which means the unit slides into an existing masonry fireplace where the unit rests on the bottom of the old fireplace.

18" legs on it ... give me a break!

did you really think I bought a stove and removed the legs on it to try and make it look like an insert ?

I'm sorry but you have frusterated me to no end and it's my opinion you should do some homework before commenting like that !


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## backpack09

I cannot find the owners manual for the insert model.  But from the freestanding version of the 1800:

"Floor Protection Requirements (for combustible floors)
If the stove is to be installed on top of a combustible floor it must be guarded by a non-combustible
material extending beneath the heater and to the front and sides as indicated in Figure 1.1, or to the nearest
permitted combustible material. Floor protection must extend beneath, and 2” (51 mm) to the sides of a
horizontal connector if one has been used.
Please note that floor protection is required under the pedestal models for spark and ash shielding, but not
for limiting floor temperatures from the radiant heat of the stove. The stove was designed and safety tested
so that without any protection the floor would not overheat even under over firing conditions. Please refer
to local codes for suitable floor protection materials."

It looks like you meet that under the stove.


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## backpack09

Ahh found the insert:

"2.1.1 Hearth Requirements
If the non-combustible hearth is flush with the floor, then the hearth must be 16” (406mm) in front of
the fan housing (see Figure 2.1.2). If the non-combustible hearth is a minimum of 4” (102mm) above
the floor, then the hearth can be 6” (152mm) out from the fan housing with a 10” (254mm) floor
protection (sparks) extended beyond the hearth (see Figure 2.1.1). The non-combustible hearth must be
a minimum of 8” (203mm) on each side of the unit (Canada & US)."

still looks like you meet those requirements.

Manual at: http://www.osburn-mfg.com/forcedownload.aspx?strFile=images/poeles/manuel_en/4851132922008263.pdf


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## 67ref

thank you!
yes the manual for the 1800i which is the insert was reviewed along with the application by the inspector,
this unit DOES NOT require 18" legs on it and as far as the hearth extention outwards, it was not enough
on the stone which lays ontop of the 2X4 wooden contructed hearth but was approved to have 12X12 ceramic tiles down below.

why would someone say something like that ?

it's all within clearance to anything combustible.
I don't have it in front of me right now but it was something like 14" from the top of the unit
and I think 10" to each side and 18" outward on the front from the unit body and with this
bayview model it means the door/glass not the actual blower casing.

I don't get it ... was all drawn up and work was permitted then inspected and signed off on.

for someone that run a chimney business to get on me about needing 18" legs on this unit
and that 2x4 wooden construction is not allowed is behond me ...

gives me a headache actually.


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## crazy_dan

looks good, but probably feels better than it looks


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## 67ref

Thank you!

yes feels real good, still need to finish the facing and the mantle but yes,
have been heating with it now since Dec 12th, works real good.

Furnace stopped running although we give it a go every now and then
to keep the basement from turning into an ice cube. mostly have the
dampers turned off upstairs and wide open to the basement.

do find that every three days time for cool down and cleanout.
but this is to be expected I suppose ...

thank you again.


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## billkline

67ref said:
			
		

> Mr. chimcheree,
> Secondly, you have no idea what you are talking about .... point blank!
> 
> 
> I've become so angry with your uneducated comments ! pardon my frustrations !
> It's an approved firebox build by a company that list this unit at an INSERT,
> which means the unit slides into an existing masonry fireplace where the unit rests on the bottom of the old fireplace.
> 
> 18" legs on it ... give me a break!



67ref,
I'm sorry about mis-addressing you previously. That was my first time back on this forum in several years, and I hadn't figured out the name and status system. I am aware that you installed a Osburn 1800 Insert in your fireplace. The problem I'm concerned with is that the installation instructions for that insert expect non-combustable, code-book compliant masonry hearth to extend out 20 inches in front of the facebrick on that fireplace, and there can be no wood underneath that hearth. I thought Canada's codes were tighter than USA's codes, but I may be mistaken. Building a wood frame and putting Durock and concrete stones, however pretty, doesn't suffice for a stove with legs, much less for one sitting directly on the hearth. This stove sits 6 or so inches out past the fireplace face, on that stone sitting on wood 4 ± inches away. You do not have a noncombustible hearth. My concern is that you will pyrolize the wood in contact with that hot stone, and one day it will spontaneously combust. Is your WETT Technician or your Building Official going to help you when that happens?

And the woodwork in place of facebrick really concerns me.  That was another part  of that standard fireplace you deleted, and replaced with something different, that is not non-combustible. 
To me, that's scary.

I'm sorry I upset you, if all it does is make you mad. That does no one any good. But if I can get you to study the code books and see what doesn't conform, and can save you that disaster in the future, then my effort has been worthwhile.


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## fossil

As the OP has explained in some detail in two different threads, the actual firebox of his insert is completely contained within and supported by the original intact masonry fireplace structure.  That portion of his insert extending out to the front is viewing window and blower enclosure.  If the manufacturer's instructions specify only a non-combustible surface required for the hearth extension in front of the insert, then that's that.  The OP has more than met that requirement.  If it were an appliance which required some specified r-value for the hearth, then that would be a different story.  This installation appears to me to be perfectly safe and sound, as well as quite nicely executed.  If everyone setting out to do a DIY woodburning appliance installation did their homework as thoroughly as the OP has apparently done, the world would be a safer place.  None of us here is the local Authority Having Jurisdiction.  The OP has unfailingly engaged those professionals throughout his project, and they, who are on the scene, with the requisite knowledge and experience and credentials to say yea or nay have passed it with flying colors.  I say we get off his case and stop nit-picking and second-guessing and simply congratulate him on a job exceptionally well done.  Rick


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## North of 60

HEAR, HEAR I second that Fossil. 67 has done his due dillegence and shared a wonderful effort on his part. Enjoy your new install.
CHEERS N of 60


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## 67ref

fossil;
thank you so much for those words, you have no idea what this has all done to me last couple of days.
you a lawyer by chance, sure good writting on your part.

thank you for the many good comments, to you North of 60 as well, thank you!

the latested verdicts is as following;

just had a visit from our ward's representative of the Fire Prevention's Office,
these are the guys you get to talk to when you phone the city's Fire Station whom then pass you to thier
Fire Prevention representatives.  the guy called and said he was able to come over right away, he shows up
and although the insert was hot we carefully managed to remove the surround and view the internals.

all the paperwork and some good pictures showing the pre contructions where brought out for review.
Documentation for the unit aswell and reviewed carefully, he took some measurements and agreed that
perhaps others could be concerned when seeing this wooden structure all around this wood burning appliance
but he swore up and down, that it's to code and as a matter a fact when a stove company submits thier product
to testing it's a 1 hour burn test to no more then 90C temperature testing to the nearest combustible.

in this cause the 14" up and 10" to the sides, meets such requirements.
an IR temp testing (after he threw some small spits on and stoked it with open air for a good ten minutes) revealed
that the temp directly above the unit is only getting up to 52C. (durock and wood) and he said maybe add 10 or 20 max.
more let say we really got it running too hot, that is still would not get anywhere above 90 and is as per the testing
of ULC S628 CANADA. and that those are over stated numbers for testing purposes when a company submits thier
production for testing.

he indicated that as long as there is space between the actual masonry work, of the actual masonry fireplace, to the wooden framing,
which he was able to see in both the pictures and as well from having a look up past the durock board at the top, that it meets the
manufactures requires clearances to combustibles and therefor meets the ULC S628 standards to which the unit was tested
and approved for such rating.

I nagged him some more about that someone had put fear into me about the wooden hearth structure,
he flipped through some pages in his book and eventually showed me some text which stated that
a heart extention outwards is for spark prevention, insert rests within the designanted masonry fireplace,
he looked at the unit some more and confirmed the actual firebox of the unit is within the masonry firebrick
fireplace as required by the manufacture and local code.  he noted that the hearth is to be covered with
non-combustible material to pass code, I believe he said 1 5/8" material. he said that sometimes people
have to double up on the durock to meet such because a thinner tile was used, he's seen it done before.

he measured the thickness of my "approved" fireplace hearth stones, verified the reciepts for such
and said, you have plenty of thickness, I mentioned that eventhough i didn't have any pictures of it,
beneath the durock board screwed into the based CDX plywood there is a large piece of metal ductwork
material covered by cement directly below where the unit meets the ledge of the stone, good idea he says;
not required but very good prevention, I mentioned that it was a recommendation from the Building Permits
office although by code not required.  Overkill is the word we settled on.

he reminded me to do inspections of the entire thing and keep an eye on structural movements
which then may crack cement seams and open up possibilities for hot embers to drop into,
although with the durock and heat shield, he stated that it's something to be concerned about
but it just requires common sense and regular inspections and that embers don't just drop down
past all of this non-combustible material and ignite something.

he said it's a good point of concern but all this here meets requirements and is allowed as per Ontario building codes.

the bottom line, it's installed as per manufactures requirments and meets local code.
he said: WETT certification dealers and installed do not put their bread and butter on the line
by simply selling a few thousand dollar stove and risk the fact of being sued when signing off
on any unsafe installation that is not up to code.

I recall the installer taking a real good look around prior to going back out to the truck
to bring the unit it.  I had asked if there were any concerns and he said no other then
that he didn't see the 12X12 tiling on the floor as part of the extentions because the stones
are only 21" and the blower motor enclosure stick out 10.5"  I showed him the tiles
awaiting at the side and mention those were going in directly infront of the heart
but would not be fully fastened until we got the flooring in. 

*It's all to code and safe to continue using.*


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## billkline

67ref,

Thank you for this detailed explanation. If the county Official Having Jurisdiction has rechecked it, and seen it up close and personal, and is satisfied, I'll say "Good Job!" Your pictures didn't show me all of this, and they scared me silly. Having your house burn down from a faulty wood stove installation when you are 8 years old might have that effect on a person. As an old, worn-out professional chimney specialist, I would have put everything back in masonry, I'd have used metal studs, there would be no wood anyplace in that entire space. But you didn't ask me do do it for you. And I wouldn't go there to do it if you asked me.  You have done a lot more careful work than most do-it-yourselfers I follow up behind.

Go enjoy your stove. It is a nice one. I've installed 3 or 4 of them, but I like my Osburn 1600 better. I've gotta go take one of those to my crew to install today.


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## oconnor

Code and manuals are fences to keep us safe - you have done your duty and made the only one responsible for the install happy that you are good to go - that person is you. 

Enjoy your stove, burn safe and warm.


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## Rudyjr

67Ref, Nice to see that your local officials and fire prevention folks say that you are good to go. It is very satisfying to do it yourself and know it is done right. Much better than paying others to do it for you and then find out it is not to code. Enjoy the stove, look forward to seeing the completed photos.


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## webbie

Nice job!

I do understand the concern by a member about the stud under the hearth against the fireplace - not that THIS installation is wrong, but it is good to mention it for the following reasons.....

1. If the insert is removed and the fireplace used as an open fireplace again, it may not meet THAT code.
2. Many inserts and hearth stoves do require extensive R-ratings underneath the unit, and there are definitely many where this particular situation would not meet those.

That is just for the record in case folks look at this thread and not at their own manuals!

Anyway, really nice job on everything. It definitely helps when a person has time and patience. I can only imagine if I was doing this as a paid job....having to get it done in a couple days - now THAT would be real work.

As it is, I think you can give yourself a couple pats on the back for doing a better job (cleaner, etc.) than I would have!


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## webbie

67ref said:
			
		

> I don't get it ... was all drawn up and work was permitted then inspected and signed off on.
> gives me a headache actually.



Not to belabor the point, but advice should be taken within the spirit it is given. I happen to agree with Chimcheree and his advice would generally be what you would get from most experts I know.....including myself.

Inspectors and many people simply don't know what they are talking about in many cases.

Not trying to start a flame war here, but I mentioned a few things in the last post...and I find the manual on that unit lacking, but if I were your inspector and trying to prove my point, I would say the following.

The manual constantly makes reference to "non-combustible" hearth. That particular term - for instance in the case of Vermont Castings stoves - means concrete with bare earth under it! The manual should have an R or K value stated......I'm amazed the testing lab let them get away with this.....

But that may be because.......

From Page 8:
"6. The insert is to be connected only to a lined masonry chimney and *masonry fireplace conforming 
to building codes for use with solid fuel.  Do not remove bricks or mortar from the existing 
fireplace when installing the insert. "*

As an inspector (if I was one), I could read a couple things into that. First, the fireplace - as is - must be able to be used as a open fireplace with wood. Again, without looking too far - it seems that it cannot be with that wood there. 

Some references which may apply with open fireplaces:
R1001.11 Fireplace clearance. All wood beams, joists, studs and other combustible material shall have a clearance of *not less than 2 inches (51 mm) from the front faces and sides of masonry fireplaces* and not less than 4 inches (102 mm) from the back faces of masonry fireplaces. *The air space shall not be filled*, except to provide fire blocking in accordance with Section R1001.12.

Again, please don't shoot the messenger and I truly think the existing install with the insert may be OK - although without an R-Value on the insert manual it's tough to figure.

My main concern is the use of such a fireplace in the future by another homeowner who may remove the insert and use an open fireplace. At that point, it would seem that the wood stud would have to be removed to make the 2" with air space required in the IRC.


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## webbie

In order to make certain this information is available to others, I have posted a couple links below:

In addition to the articles at our info area:
https://www.hearth.com/what/specific.php

I have posted the following new Wiki entry discussing the potential problems of proper clearances when installing stoves and inserts into masonry fireplaces. Furthermore, the entry discusses the danger of most Masonry fireplaces themselves....when used heavily (in event of power failure, etc.)

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/Masonry_Firepaces_-Not_up_to_Code/

I apologize for any hijack of this thread - this info does not pertain to this particular installation only (as I mentioned, it is probably 100% OK), but I think some links to the relevant subjects will help future readers of these forums.


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