# Cant Hooks, Log Rolling, etc.



## Cluttermagnet (Mar 9, 2010)

There's a current thread  about how to take really big rounds and reduce them in size so they're easier to move. Much talk about noodling methods and such. Dennis mentioned using a 2x10 ramp and his cant hook to get big rounds up into his truck. As a relative newcomer to wood processing, I've wanted to learn more about those tools that are used to roll logs over while cutting or to elevate logs up off the ground for cutting through, or just for moving logs and rounds, like the cant hook. Several times, while cutting deadwood trunks on the ground, I have kicked myself for not having brought along my digging bar to use as a heavy pry bar. (Yes, I know that's the wrong tool)

I've read through several threads here that cover this. Some of the stuff recommended was a little expensive, like a really good splitting axe is. What I'm wondering is, what would you guys recommend so far as basic wood *moving * tools for someone starting out. I suppose some discussion of winching and otherwise dragging logs fits here, and I'd certainly find that interesting, but my main interest right now is to try to decide what simple hand tools such as a cant hook to get hold of first.

BTW I'd like to focus on just this one subject, because I think I have already seen plenty of good advice about saws, splitters, trucks, mauls, wedges, axes, etc.


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## savageactor7 (Mar 9, 2010)

As just a homeowner cutter of wood I went out of my way to get this...





...cause imo it was more useful for doing all sorts of other things as well as move a 1000lb log. 

Over the years it's become my most favorite man handling tool. Like if you have to budge a 700lb piece of 3PH equipment 1ft or a fraction of an inch...it's time for Mr. spud bar.

As far as handling big rounds goes I'd noodle cut 'em into 1/4's before I'd put my back at risk...why make it harder than it is?


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## Backwoods Savage (Mar 9, 2010)

Clutter, as you have stated, I like the cant hook and rarely go to the woods without one. I do not always need it because I don't always cut big trees. However it is amazing just how handy this one tool can be. Some say get a peavy which is similar but the can't hook is better for what we use it for. 

Other than the cant hook, saw, axe and wedges, the only other thing I take is gas, oil (and an old tooth brush for cleaning around the oil cap), saw wrench, sharpener, and some water to drink. The atv, trailer and hydraulic splitter complete my tool collection for cutting wood. However, there are a few times when I cut some smaller trees that I may use a chain and pull them out to the trail with the atv but usually I don't do this. Whoops, one more thing is the sawbuck but I don't use it very often unless the wife is helping.

Good luck.


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## webie (Mar 9, 2010)

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200357988_200357988
 This is one of my better investments


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## Flatbedford (Mar 10, 2010)

This is my required tool list
-saw (with file to sharpen)
-timberjack
-Fiskars Super Splitting axe
-plastic felling wedge
Additional tools I take
-second saw
-felling axe
-sledge and wedges
-pulp hook

I use the timberjack most of the time with the jack leg removed as a peavey or cant hook would be used to muscle the big ones into position. I use the Fiskars to halve or quarter the rounds so they are light enough to lift onto the truck. I used to do the 2x12 ramp, but have found splitting to be easier. If I can't easily half or quarter what I cut, it stays in the woods because I only hand split at home anyway.

Here are tools 1,2,&3 on the job.


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## smokinj (Mar 10, 2010)

Cant hook or timber jack is almost as handy as a back up saw. It can get you out of a pinch bar roll the log to get to the under side or even lift it of the ground. Once I even used it to change the tire on my splitter on the side of the road. I always take 2 saws, gas, oil,timber jack safty gear...


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## Backwoods Savage (Mar 10, 2010)

I have a timber jack out in one of the sheds somewhere and anyone who wants it can come and get it free. It is the most worthless piece of junk I have. I tried using it as a cant hook and it won't work for that worth a hoot either.  It came from Northern Tool but they may have changed suppliers. Mine has a wood handle which is the only good thing about it.


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## rphurley (Mar 10, 2010)

I picked up a timber-jack about a month ago and I find it helpful to lift those 8-12" logs for sawing.  I used to struggle to lift them and wedge something underneath, and repeat the process until I bucked the whole log.  I find the timber-jack takes a lot of the wear and tear off my back.


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## Nonprophet (Mar 10, 2010)

If you want to buy just one cant hook/timber jack that will last a lifetime and more, I'd suggest the Logrite brand.  I bought the 4' cant hook and added their timber jack attachment.  It is made from aircraft quality aluminum and extremely well-built.  I have used it to get our truck out of a ditch.....it's that tough.

I think I paid $120 for the cant hook and timber jack combined.  No matter what you do, don't waste your money on a $40 Northern Tool or Harbor Freight one--they WILL break/bend the first time you put any real weight on them.

NP


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## John_M (Mar 10, 2010)

My favorite "moving" tools are the spud bar (Lowes or Home Depot) shown by savageactor and the 30" version of this: http://store.logrite.com/hookaroons.html Both of these tools are always with me when I head out to cut or split. Both are indispensible. I'm also finding that a pair of the fiber reinforced vehicle ramps are becoming my "go to" tool for raising logs off the ground when bucking. I use my Gator to pull the logs onto the ramps and once the logs are cut to a manageable size my spud bar can easily move them to wherever. 

Keep your hookaroon with your splitter. Heck, sometimes you can sit at the splitter for hours and use that small miracle to pull the rounds to you. This light and sturdy tool is so handy I will probably purchase the 24" and 48" verions this spring. Do not confuse the Logrite "Hookaroon" with the Peavy "Pickaroon". The head of the Pickaroon is made of a a softer metal for use around saws and chippers in a mill. This softer metal will cause less damage if it comes into contact with a saw blade. 

My feelings about the Timberjack are identical to those of Dennis: useless. Good luck. John_M


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## Cluttermagnet (Mar 10, 2010)

You guys are the greatest! A lot of good suggestions already. I'm still trying to figure things out. I bet that if there were some videos online showing how these tools are used, that would help a lot. Despite the obvious differences between a cant hook, a peavey, and a Hookaroon, for example, it is not completely clear to me how these actually get used. I've got some clues, mind you, but I've simply never seen these tools in action long enough to figure it all out. I've maybe had glimpses of them on 'logging' shows, that's about it.

I confess I was thinking about a cheap timberjack with fiberglass handle, currently on sale at Northern. But some of you consider them useless. Why? I think it would help me if you would each describe, in your own words, how you use these various tools on the job. And why you dislike some other tools.

Why does a cant hook not have a spike, whereas a peavey does? Do you need different sizes if you process timber of greatly different diameters? Where does a Hookaroon fit in with these other two tools?

The two suggestions for a 'spud bar' were slightly unexpected- but they do validate my own thinking. The tool here that I call a 'digging bar' is probably similar if not exactly the same. It's a wonderful, very strong and heavy pry bar-one use is to allow lifting and shoving things under a log so its up off the ground for cutting. Crude but effective. I can see myself doing that. But a timber jack seems to be a more elegant way of doing that. Then there are ramps. I never would have thought of that. That would work. But what is a "Gator"? Is that one of the 4-wheel ATVs? Or is Gator some sort of tool? Sorry, guys, I'm still learning the basics.

Probably what I'm most focused on right now is how to efficiently roll or raise big logs long enough to buck them into manageable rounds. Keep the ideas coming- thanks!


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## dave11 (Mar 10, 2010)

A peavey is a remnant of the old days, or so I've read, where logging was done at a mill on the river, and guys needed to float the logs to it. The spike on the end of the peavey was for moving and positioning the logs in the water. That's why a cant hook is likely better for most of us to use, instead of a peavey. 

I also have the logrite cant hook, and am impressed by what it can do. I believe logrite has some videos of it in use, on Youtube, or on their website.


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## Backwoods Savage (Mar 10, 2010)

Clutter, without pictures the easiest way to describe how you use a cant hook is to picture the old can openers. Do you remember those which you'd set along the edge and just keep lifting the end and then lowering it for another bite; doing that all the way around the can and then the lid would pop off. That is pretty much what you do with the cant hook. It has a dog and a toe. You stand at the log and put the handle down so the toe is towards the top of the log and the dog bites into the log as you raise the handle. When you get the handle up you can usually just put your leg against the log while you get another bite with the hook.

How I like to use the cant hook the best is to cut off the bottom of the tree below the big limbs. Then place a couple of poles or even some firewood lengths of wood and roll the log onto those. This gets the log above the ground which will allow you to cut without hitting the ground. Another way is to make several cuts in a log (maybe 3/4 of the way through) and then roll the log with the cant hook so you can finish the cuts.


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## Flatbedford (Mar 10, 2010)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> Another way is to make several cuts in a log (maybe 3/4 of the way through) and then roll the log with the cant hook so you can finish the cuts.



That's what I do most of the time. I used to work with a big, long prybar too. Since I bought my timberjack (and removed the leg) I have been leaving the bar home.


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## John_M (Mar 10, 2010)

Clutter, I'll try to address your questions in order. These opinions are mine only and may not be the same for others: 

Timberjack- I do not like it because it is too hard for me to raise even the small end of a 24' x 12" log with confidence. If I am able to raise the log with great difficulty, I am afraid it will "get away' from me and roll into my legs. Also, when using the timbrerjack on normal ground, the weight of a heavy log will force the "T" shaped jack end into the earth, making it a pain to remove. One can carry a piece of plywood or other hard plate to prevent this but that plate then requires that you raise the log even higher, which makes it even more difficult. Also, sometimes the tip of the hook will need to be driven into the log or it will slip off. Also, some of the models cannot grab onto some of the smaller wood.

Cant hook and Peavey- In simplest terms, the cant hook is used to turn or move logs. The Peavey w/point was originally used by loggers when moving rafts of logs on bodies of water. A search on Google or Wikipedia will give you much more specificity. These days, the point on a Peavey can be used for sticking into the ground so it does not fall over and get run over by a vehicle or lost. If you remove the point from a Peavey it looks something like a cant hook but withour the small toe at the bottom.  

Hookaroon- Photos are in the link. While splitting, I sit on a log or milk carton or a comfortable plastic chair. I use the Hookaroon with its strong and very sharp point to grab rounds or large splits to pull them to the splitter. This saves much standing then sitting, and lifting. I also use it when loading splits onto a wagon. It is most helpful for organizing wood which is out of arm's reach-a real time and labor saver. 

Spud bar- Savageactor's spud bar, my spud bar and your digger are one in the same prehistoric but indespensible tool. Paint it orange or some other bright color so when you leave it behind you can easily find it. Gave one to a farmer friend five years ago and he did not paint it. Lost it while putting up fence and hasn't found it since. Boy, have we looked for it. Hope his baler or haybine do not find it  before we do 

Ramps- These are the ones you use to drive your vehicle's front wheels onto when changing oil, etc. Use two ramps to raise the whole log so you can buck from both ends. Stick your digger into the ground so the log will not roll while you are cutting.  

Gator- My John Deere Gator 4x4 workhorse with hydraulic dump; I could not work outside without it. Use it to tow the splitter, move logs and haul wood. The diesel engine has terrific torque. 

Hope this addresses most of your questions. Best Wishes, John_M


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## smokinj (Mar 10, 2010)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> I have a timber jack out in one of the sheds somewhere and anyone who wants it can come and get it free. It is the most worthless piece of junk I have. I tried using it as a cant hook and it won't work for that worth a hoot either.  It came from Northern Tool but they may have changed suppliers. Mine has a wood handle which is the only good thing about it.



bought my from baileys works great most of what I have will just sink the jack part but rolls medium size logs great.
I am sure someone would take that one of yours?


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## firefighterjake (Mar 10, 2010)

When working with really big boy wood I either buck the wood and then bring my splitter to the site (usually I'm working on the family land) or I use the tractor with the bucket loader (father's tractor) to lift the rounds on to my trailer or friend's truck. If I'm working off-site I just man-handle the wood into the trailer . . . I may cut a sapling to use as a crude lever.


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## Cluttermagnet (Mar 10, 2010)

OK- great comments, all! I'm seeing a cant hook as maybe my top choice, then, but that Hookaroon is also very interesting and looks to have a different function. Seems you just drag stuff with it, and although that would tend to roll logs, it's not a formal 'roller' or 'leverage' sort of tool as the cant hook is. Sounds like more of a 'grabber' or a non-cable come along, so to speak.

I'm definitely going to remember to bring my spud bar along in all future cutting and bucking. That's something I have here now. I like the idea of day glow orange paint. Guess I'd better do that for sure. My wood gathering for next season will be starting in the next week or so, and I'll be looking for standing and fallen deadwood with Oak preferred. Haven't really needed to cut any green wood so far in my wood burning career.

What is a good length for a cant hook? I'm picturing around 3.5 to 4ft. The Logrite site has them all over the map, starting at 24in. Anyone use shorties with this tool? Another question about these tools- what kind of practical size range of logs will they handle? I assume if you tried one on too big a diameter log, the hook just wouldn't set and would keep pulling out?

I'll search a little on the net for videos on tool technique. Would also appreciate any links to videos anyone would like to recommend.


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## Flatbedford (Mar 10, 2010)

This cant hook looks home made, but you will get the idea
<object style="height: 344px; width: 425px"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/nIzZ7Q8w4Jw"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/nIzZ7Q8w4Jw" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="425" height="344"></object>


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## Flatbedford (Mar 10, 2010)

That didn't go very well. Try this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIzZ7Q8w4Jw


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## Flatbedford (Mar 10, 2010)

More video
Here's what we were calling a Timberjack at work.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IISPH_6DzPM&NR=1#watch-main-area
I find this to be pretty cumbersome. Mine has a removable foot, so I can use it like the cant hook and cut most of the way through and roll the logs for the final cut. At least you should get the idea of how these tools are used to easily lever around big, heavy stuff with minimal effort


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## Cluttermagnet (Mar 10, 2010)

Wow- excellent, FlatBedFord. If a picture is worth a thousand words, I guess a video must be worth about ten thousand words. Now I see what a cant hook can do. That was a pretty big log, too. Looked like that point bit in so well he was having to remove it each time, by hand. Dynamite tool, I can see.


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## Cluttermagnet (Mar 10, 2010)

Flatbedford said:
			
		

> More video
> Here's what we were calling a Timberjack at work.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IISPH_6DzPM&NR=1#watch-main-area
> I find this to be pretty cumbersome. Mine has a removable foot, so I can use it like the cant hook and cut most of the way through and roll the logs for the final cut. At least you should get the idea of how these tools are used to easily lever around big, heavy stuff with minimal effort


Yeah. He's got a sort of peavy/ timberjack setup there. When I first grasped the idea of a timberjack, it looked pretty good to me at first blush. This video is also my first ever look at that particular tool in action.

Heh! Well, I continue to mull it over the next week or two as I struggle with my spud bar. I'm definitely going to get myself one of these hook type doodads. ;-)


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## savageactor7 (Mar 10, 2010)

Clutter, John M has some good advice about painting up you wood tools...I recommend orange instead of the red you see here.


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## NH_Wood (Mar 11, 2010)

John_M said:
			
		

> Clutter, I'll try to address your questions in order. These opinions are mine only and may not be the same for others:
> 
> Hookaroon- Photos are in the link. While splitting, I sit on a log or milk carton or a comfortable plastic chair. I use the Hookaroon with its strong and very sharp point to grab rounds or large splits to pull them to the splitter. This saves much standing then sitting, and lifting. I also use it when loading splits onto a wagon. It is most helpful for organizing wood which is out of arm's reach-a real time and labor saver.
> 
> Hope this addresses most of your questions. Best Wishes, John_M



+1 on the 'hookaroon' or pickaroon. Really saves a lot of back work and is great for moving relatively small rounds and splits - I have to keep a cap on the bed of my truck - my pickaroon makes unloading a lot better! Cheers!


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## Backwoods Savage (Mar 11, 2010)

On the video with the fellow using his cant hook. That looks like a home made one and it also appears he doesn't use one very much as he makes it look a bit clumsy. But that does give the folks an idea of what it can do. Rolling a log onto a limb or pole that you have cut is easy work with the cant hook as is just cutting first and then rolling the log before finishing the cut.


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## Nonprophet (Mar 11, 2010)

One other piece of advice, read the specs on the cant hooks you are thinking about buying.  For example, some will only handle a 10"-18" log by virtue of their design.  This is one of the other main reasons I went with the Logrite cant hook, as they seem to have the widest range of log sizes that they will work with--mine will handle from 8"-32" diameter logs.

NP


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## Cluttermagnet (Mar 11, 2010)

NH_Wood- What length Hookaroon do you use?
Yes, they are looking really good to me at this point, but as an addition to the basic cant hook.



			
				NH_Wood said:
			
		

> John_M said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Cluttermagnet (Mar 11, 2010)

Yep. The Logrites look pretty good. Pricey. You can get a cheapie for near half price (wood handle). Maybe they are worth the extra.

What length Logrite cant hook do you have? From your own experience, can you see why they offer so many different sizes? Which lengths fit which jobs?

You say 8-32in grip range, so maybe you use the 36in length cant hook?



			
				Nonprophet said:
			
		

> One other piece of advice, read the specs on the cant hooks you are thinking about buying.  For example, some will only handle a 10"-18" log by virtue of their design.  This is one of the other main reasons I went with the Logrite cant hook, as they seem to have the widest range of log sizes that they will work with--mine will handle from 8"-32" diameter logs.
> 
> NP


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## Nonprophet (Mar 11, 2010)

Cluttermagnet said:
			
		

> Yep. The Logrites look pretty good. Pricey. You can get a cheapie for near half price (wood handle). Maybe they are worth the extra.
> 
> What length Logrite cant hook do you have? From your own experience, can you see why they offer so many different sizes? Which lengths fit which jobs?
> 
> ...



I have the 48" Logrite cant hook with the universal log stand (timber jack).  To me it is a good balance between strength, leverage, and portability.

FWIW Northern Tool now sells some knock-off cant hooks that look very similar to the Logrite's (but orange instead of blue) and they are about 25-30% less money, however, more than one reviewer has said that he bent the handle on the NT version.  I can assure you that would NEVER happen with the Logrite, and, even if it did they are guaranteed for life.

NP


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## Nonprophet (Mar 11, 2010)

Cluttermagnet said:
			
		

> NH_Wood- What length Hookaroon do you use?
> Yes, they are looking really good to me at this point, but as an addition to the basic cant hook.
> 
> 
> ...



If you're thinking about a hook/pick aroon, you might want to consider a "pulp hook" instead.  You can see them here.  I like them better than a hook/pick aroon because I find the handle easier to hold onto with the weight of a log/split on it.  They're also smaller and less expensive, yet still great for moving wood around without having to bend over all the time.

NP


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## Flatbedford (Mar 12, 2010)

I bought a pulp hook last summer. Very handy tool. Saves a lot of wear and tear on your hands and/or gloves. Great for unloading the truck. My only complaint is that I can't reach all the rounds in the truck with it. I want to get a hookaroon so I can reach the whole load from the ground.


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## John_M (Mar 12, 2010)

Excellent choice, Flatbed. My 24" Hookaroon is a constant and inseparable companion when working wood. I wouldn't hesitate to purchase another (36" or 48") should the need arise. I think you will be very happy with yours. John_M


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## Flatbedford (Mar 12, 2010)

I was looking on the Peavey website. They have six different styles!! I don't how to choose.
http://peaveymfg.com/pickeroons.html


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## John_M (Mar 12, 2010)

flatbed, I just looked at the pickaroons on the Peavey web site. I would be out of my league recommending one style over another. I've never used the excellent Peavey brand of pickeroon so am unable to speak of their uses. Perhaps you could call them and explain your uses. They might suggest a best model for you. The Peavey company does have a reputation for excellence. Good luck. John_M


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## Flatbedford (Mar 13, 2010)

I figured it was time for a phone call too. I just ran out of time today. I'll call om Monday, and post here what they recommend.


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## olafsenpn (Mar 13, 2010)

This may be off thread just a bit, but some of you guys may like the story and pic. A friend of mine, almost 92, gave me a cant hook that had been his fathers. It was made or repaired by a local blacksmith over 80 years ago... and is still going strong. It has really been a great help to me. Below is a pic of to 80+ guys posing with me while moving some timber. For all you Red Sox fans (I am one), I forgave the one guy his Yankee jacket and hat because of the help.


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## John_M (Mar 13, 2010)

Olafsen, Great photo. I'll bet those old timers really enjoyed showing you "youngster" how to "...move wood the way we did it years ago". Thank you for tolerating the Yankee jacket just this one time.   Best wishes, John_M


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## andybaker (Mar 14, 2010)

I'll have to vote on the pulp hook.  I never gather wood without it.  I've handled 30" Oak rounds with it.  I like the orange one from Baileys.  For under $20 how can you go wrong?  I've got a cant hook and a timberjack too, but the pulp hook is a must.  It'll pay for itself within 2 years on wear and tear on your gloves alone.


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## Tony H (Mar 14, 2010)

Got to watch out in many areas it's not smart to venture into the woods with a bullseye jacket on. On the other hand you might find that jacket with a couple of cant hook or pulp hook holes in it.  :wow:


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## Bspring (Mar 14, 2010)

Guys, this was a really great thread. Special thanks to Cluttermagnet for the great questions. I will be purchasing some new tools because of this. I have been using my back for all log moving requirements and that cuts into my splitting energy.


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## andybaker (Mar 14, 2010)

Hey Tony, lol.  You got me thinkin here.  A couple of years ago I went out in the woods during the spring, not thinking, I was hunting mushrooms, not firewood at the time, but I came across a couple guys turkey hunting.  Never thought about it before nor have I ever seen a turkey around here before.  I don't ever go back out there in the mornings anymore during hunting season.


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## Backwoods Savage (Mar 14, 2010)

Just wear a blaze orange hat or coat and all will be well.


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## andybaker (Mar 15, 2010)

I'm a little extra cautious now a days. There was an accident in my sister in-laws family a few years back where one brother accidentally shot and killed the other brother. One brother dead and the other wishing he was. What a way to ruin two lives. The brother that was killed was my sister in-laws sisters fiance. There's no room for accidents with guns and I have too much respect for guns to be where they are and I don't really need to be. Just my little effort to stay on the safe side.


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## Flatbedford (Mar 16, 2010)

Flatbedford said:
			
		

> I was looking on the Peavey website. They have six different styles!! I don't how to choose.
> http://peaveymfg.com/pickeroons.html



I called today and after a little chat with them, I ordered the "36" Katahdin" pickeroon.




With shipping it should be about $50 and I should have it in a week or so. Pics and review will be posted.


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## nojo (Apr 13, 2010)

Flatbedford said:
			
		

> Flatbedford said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Very cool. You know I just might throw a piece of steel in the forge tomorrow and make me one of these. I bet I can crack it out in about 20-40 minutes.


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## Cluttermagnet (Apr 13, 2010)

I was working in the woods Monday, and this time I remembered to bring my digging bar (spud bar). It helped. My friend who has the acreage came and helped me cut up a Cherry tree. He has a nice old (40 years) Stihl 040 (or was that an 041?). Great saw! Anyway, I watched him cut and learned a few new things. Since this tree was a smaller leaner, still solidly hinged to its base (strong winds blew it over), he used upward cuts with the saw. Also at times, a slow, jabbing move to establish that upwards cut while avoiding running the chain down into the dirt. Neat! This was way more efficient than how I was doing it from the top and getting my chain pinched a lot. Saw knowhow trumped cant hooks, log rolling, and such, today at least.


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## Flatbedford (Apr 13, 2010)

Knowledge, experience, and the right tools always make the job easier.


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## nojo (Apr 14, 2010)

Ok I made a hookeroon this afternoon while I was shoeing a horse. 

Took about 20 minutes. I used a small horseshoe straightened it out then folded it in half lining up the ends and hammer/forge welded the ends on the anvil up a few inches making it one solid piece. Then drew out the hook out of that peice that used to be the two heels of the horseshoe. Might be too 'Hookish' but seems to work well. Put it on a 36" axe handle. 

















-josh


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## Cluttermagnet (Apr 14, 2010)

Dang! Beautiful job, nojo. Very functional. I want one.


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## Shari (Apr 14, 2010)

Nojo - If your making I'll buy!

Shari


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## ken999 (Apr 14, 2010)

Another BIG fan of the Peavy Mfg. Kathadin's. I've used the Penobscot alot as well, but it just doesn't bite as well. I've got it ground out more like the Kathadins and it works better than before, but still not as grabby.

I don't handle wood without them anymore.

Peavy Mfg. has been a first class company to deal with when I had some issues with a couple of handles. They are good people and they make a great product.

They get nothing but praise from me.


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## nojo (Apr 14, 2010)

Thanks for the comments guys, no plans currently to make them for re-sale. I'll see though. 



			
				ken999 said:
			
		

> Another BIG fan of the Peavy Mfg. Kathadin's. I've used the Penobscot alot as well, but it just doesn't bite as well. I've got it ground out more like the Kathadins and it works better than before, but still not as grabby.



Can you describe how exactly you use a pickroon? Just whale it into the wood and pick up a round? Or use it to roll the stuff to you? I used mine today to roll some logs and pull rounds toward me while I was loading the truck. I might make it less of a hook.


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## Cluttermagnet (Apr 14, 2010)

I think they're used mainly for rolling. Also for limited amounts of dragging, but often while up on a saw bed or maybe a big chipper where there's not much sliding resistance. Peavey makes an aluminum head pickaroon. They say it won't tear up a chipper if it grabs one.

Yeah, Man- I'd buy one of yours in a heartbeat! Then get my own handle and fit them together myself.

My appetite for new tools is much smaller than my budget. ;-)


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## nojo (Apr 14, 2010)

Cluttermagnet said:
			
		

> Yeah, Man- I'd buy one of yours in a heartbeat! Then get my own handle and fit them together myself.



Yeah handle'ing them up is kind of a pain. Not too bad actually if you have a Rasp or Half round File.

So what the draw? The fact that its made from a horseshoe? 

-josh


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## Cluttermagnet (Apr 14, 2010)

nojo said:
			
		

> Yeah handle'ing them up is kind of a pain. Not too bad actually if you have a Rasp or Half round File.


Yep- or a belt sander with a 60 grit belt works well. Just take your time and don't hurry it. ;-) 



> So what the draw? The fact that its made from a horseshoe?
> 
> -josh


Nope, just that everything costs too much these days. But the horse shoe part is really neat, Josh! I'm fond of unique, old, or hand made tools and such. Yours looks as good to me as a commercial one but it has personality. These little items (cant hooks) are like 30-50 bucks from Northern and even more from Peavey for a quality one with a longer handle. An inexpensive 'head only' hook would be a real find for me.

I presently have a hatchet, an axe, and one of my two sledge hammers (10lb), all of which I had to put handles on or at least repair. They were hand me downs, total cost about 10-12 dollars for a Hickory handle (the fiberglass axe handle from Walmart was a B'day gift). And ironically, the axe is way better than the average hardware store offering today; the hatchet is about the best I've ever used, just fantastic. I bought an 8lb sledge a few years back, to go with my wedges, and I was given a nice 8lb maul by a friend who is no longer into wood burning.

I bought a 'splitting axe' from Walmart last fall for like 20 bucks marked down. All rusty. Somebody must have returned it after splitting a few cords or whatever. I cleaned it up to near- like new. Turns out it's mainly a pretty stupid design with flared ramps on either side of the blade for greater splitting power- sometimes. And lots of bounce- often. Sorry I bought it, it's not really all that good. The money could have been better spent- like on a cant hook!  

A cant hook is a no brainer IMO. I can now see where one of those would improve my productivity a lot while cutting. I'll buy or make one eventually.

Probably not much of a market for 'head only' tools, but I'm real good at 'mix and match', 'repurposing', and building and repairing things. I bet a lot of other folks are too. This recession has kind of stood on my head a little. Doubtless lots of other folks as well. The days when I whipped out the plastic and just ordered whatever tools I fancied are gone now. Not much in my tool budget lately.


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## Shari (Apr 14, 2010)

nojo said:
			
		

> So what the draw? The fact that its made from a horseshoe?
> 
> -josh



USA made.  Supporting the little guy.    "Supporting The Trade" if you will.  Plus, my grandfather & g-grandfather were blacksmiths.   

When I was a kid there was a blacksmith shop in the little town I grew up in.  His main work was horseshoes even though I never saw a horse hitched outside.  I loved to watch him make sparks fly when using his anvil.  His name was simply "Charlie".  There was a little country store across the street from him.  My sis & I would ride our bikes down to the store and buy orange sherbet push-ups.  She'd ride home and I would go across the street, park my bike and sit in the shade and just watch Charlie work.  He'd look up at me, smile, and go back to work.  I don't think we ever did speak to one another.  The only time he ever spoke to me was to shoosh me away if I got too close to the sparks.

Charlie's shop is still there sitting next to the lazy creek but he is long gone.  Some yuppy's bought the shop, turned it into a craft type store.  It took me years to go inside the 'craft store' through the people style door they had added.  It seemed so strange not to have the double doors open to the weather.  I never did look at any of the stuff they had in the store but I was finally able to approach Charlie's forge and even touched it gingerly thinking any minute Charlie was going to come rushing in from the back and shoosh me away.  Horse shoes were still hung up high on the rafters with square nails; the uneven brick floor still carried soot from Charlie's days.  Gone but slightly lingering was the smell of the forge, the hammers and the sweaty leather apron Charlie used to wear.

Today, if one were to ask me what Charlie looked like I don't think I could tell you.  I only remember a tall, thin man with his head bowed, gnarly soot covered hands either swinging a hammer or grabbing other hand tools like a very experienced conductor of a fancy orchestra.  I remember his apron and his black soot covered shoes - soot that seemed to creep up his shoes only to be hidden by his overhanging leather apron.

Good memories!

Shari


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## nojo (Apr 15, 2010)

Shari,
Thanks for sharing!


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## Cluttermagnet (Apr 15, 2010)

nojo said:
			
		

> Shari,
> Thanks for sharing!


Yeah, beautifully written. Almost like having been there.


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## Cluttermagnet (Apr 15, 2010)

I was out harvesting various deadwood on my friend's acreage and he brought out a timber jack he had. So I got to use a timber jack for the first time today. Really worked great! This is one of the first things I started looking at for log rolling tools. I definitely want one now.


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## Flatbedford (Apr 15, 2010)

nojo said:
			
		

> Can you describe how exactly you use a pickroon? Just whale it into the wood and pick up a round? Or use it to roll the stuff to you? I used mine today to roll some logs and pull rounds toward me while I was loading the truck. I might make it less of a hook.



I finally had some time to get out and cut yesterday. I brought my new Peavey Kathadin with me. Awesome tool. I felt like the bad guy in Terminator. No bending over, pretty much like you said, whale it into the wood and pull. It was great for unloading the truck too. I was able to grab the rounds and pull them to the back of the truck. I'd like to get another with a 48" or even 60" handle so that I can reach all the way to the front of my 9' bed. With the 36" that I bought, I can only reach about 2/3 of the way in. I bought the 36" because I thought that any more length might get a little clumsy. Now that I have used it, I think the 36" will work for almost all uses, but I'd like a longer one just for unloading the truck. Now that I have this, I don't think I'll be using the pulp hook much anymore.


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## Cluttermagnet (Apr 24, 2010)

I cut and loaded another 0.8 cords of on- the- ground, deadwood Red Oak into my van today. I was working with my digging bar and my friend's timber jack, both of which at least helped some. One tree was just too massive for me to move it alone, however. I'll have to get my friend to help. So I left that trunk on the ground, mostly cut through along its length for 14-16in rounds. I need to roll it  somehow to finish it off and detach the rounds. Hmmm- I wonder if a come along would do it, in combination with that timber jack. All I need is a bit more force on the lever arm. I'll have to try that next time. I do have a light duty Harbor Freight come along, new in box, sitting back home. Once I get it bucked into rounds, I can roll and lift those.


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## Backwoods Savage (Apr 24, 2010)

You can do it using a come-along but a cant hook makes easy work of it. I hate going to the woods without a cant hook because they are so handy and save a lot of work.


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## smokinj (Apr 24, 2010)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> You can do it using a come-along but a cant hook makes easy work of it. I hate going to the woods without a cant hook because they are so handy and save a lot of work.


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## Cluttermagnet (Apr 25, 2010)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> You can do it using a come-along but a cant hook makes easy work of it. I hate going to the woods without a cant hook because they are so handy and save a lot of work.


What you're saying is really intriguing, Dennis. I'm trying to figure, in my mind's eye, how that cant hook could provide that much more leverage than either that borrowed timber jack or my digging bar (spud bar). Well, if it's 4-5 feet long, it could lever stronger than the timber jack, I reckon.

Seems like what was missing anyway was a helper to wedge things under that big heavy trunk for me. I could budge it with the timber jack, but just barely. The bar was near useless. Maybe 500-800 pounds of trunk I was playing with? It's around 15-20ft long and 12-15in diameter- and it's fairly wet from ground contact. It kept wanting to roll back to where it started. What length(s) of cant hook handles do you have?

BTW you look like you're a fairly big guy, Dennis. Bear in mind I'm just a little wiry guy just over 5ft 7, not exactly super strong. ;-)


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## Backwoods Savage (Apr 25, 2010)

Naw, I'm just a little old guy. But if you ever start working with a real cant hook, you'll wonder why you didn't get one sooner. Maybe it just goes back to my logging and sawmill days when we used cant hooks a lot. For example, if you watch even the portable sawmills now, they roll their logs with hydraulics. When I sawed lumber, I rolled those logs with a cant hook. Now that might not seem too much but when you have a log on the carriage, it rolls a bit different than when it is on the ground or on the skids.


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## Cluttermagnet (Apr 26, 2010)

The next tool I buy is going to be a cant hook, Dennis. Those videos I saw a while back removed all doubt. Anyway, I may be able to get my friend to loan me his timber jack longer term, since he no longer burns wood- but he did for many years. Can't hurt to ask him.


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## Bspring (Apr 26, 2010)

After reading this post I bought one of the Logright cant hooks and was so impressed with it I bought another one for a friend of mine that I owed a favor.


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## Backwoods Savage (Apr 26, 2010)

Bspring, you are a good man.


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## Cluttermagnet (May 22, 2010)

Cluttermagnet said:
			
		

> The next tool I buy is going to be a cant hook, Dennis. Those videos I saw a while back removed all doubt. Anyway, I may be able to get my friend to loan me his timber jack longer term, since he no longer burns wood- but he did for many years. Can't hurt to ask him.


Your opinions please- which of these cant hooks would you prefer- and why? Or neither?

48in Steel Cant hook

78in Aluminum Cant Hook

I'm leaning towards the steel one right now, but it's probably pretty darned heavy.
I've read several negative reviews of Northern tools in here (item #2).



BTW my friend has no more interest in wood gathering-
so he just gave me his old timber jack.

Mine has tubing with a barb at the end instead of the
flat, steel hook- but it does look something like this:


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## Cluttermagnet (May 22, 2010)

nojo said:
			
		

> Cluttermagnet said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm going to knock together one from an 8in galvanized nail and an old pick handle- and see how it works. Hammer nail into slightly undersize hole, bend the point in the vise a little, file a little, and done. Zero cost to me and I don't have to learn iron forging. ;-)


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## Backwoods Savage (May 22, 2010)

Of the two you have on ebay, I'd go with 48" as that is usually all one really needs. I worked for many years with a 3' handle.

One things though; I prefer a good wood handle rather than the steel. I believe one of those stated the handle was taped too and that could prove to be a big pain. Also, for the price they are asking plus shipping, you can probably get a much better deal and a much better cant hook from your local hardware. They might have to order one for you but it will probably be better. Those on ebay look cheap. I also do not like the peavy unless I'm working logs into a river. Stick with the cant hook which has a good toe on the end rather than a pick. You will quickly learn the toe is much, much better for rolling logs.


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## ansehnlich1 (May 22, 2010)

I had a tri axle load of logs delivered a week ago or so. I've been workin' on 'em. I was using my heavy diggin' iron to move 'em around. However, this morning my wife and I were doin' the yard sale thing and low and behold, layin' there in the grass, was one of these.....

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15810&catID=11507

It was $5

We bought it 

The woman asked my wife what she was going to do with it and my wife said proudly "roll logs" haha

yeah, that woman was amazed at that, guess she thought my wife was gonna hang it on the wall for decoration or somethin.

Anyway, the one we bought is missin the t'bar stand ya see on the one from baileys. Maybe I'll make one to put back on that bad boy. Best yard sale buy of the day, no doubt!


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## Flatbedford (May 22, 2010)

You won't miss the stand. I took mine off a few months after I bought it and haven't put it back in yet. Nice score @ $5!


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## Cluttermagnet (May 23, 2010)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> Of the two you have on ebay, I'd go with 48" as that is usually all one really needs. I worked for many years with a 3' handle.
> 
> One things though; I prefer a good wood handle rather than the steel. I believe one of those stated the handle was taped too and that could prove to be a big pain. Also, for the price they are asking plus shipping, you can probably get a much better deal and a much better cant hook from your local hardware. They might have to order one for you but it will probably be better. Those on ebay look cheap. I also do not like the peavy unless I'm working logs into a river. Stick with the cant hook which has a good toe on the end rather than a pick. You will quickly learn the toe is much, much better for rolling logs.


Everything you say makes sense, Dennis. I'd rather have a wooden handle anyway. I'm not going to rush this. Eventually, the one I want will appear. Most Ebay sellers are jacking prices as much as they can get away with. Things get irrationally bid up at times. I had more of a yard sale tool in mind myself.

I think I'd be happier with a 4ft cant hook. To me, that ~3ft timber jack I have now doesn't seem to have quite enough oomph sometimes. Need a little more leverage.

Yep, I really don't want a Peavy point. A cant hook with the right shaped butt end, especially one with a short barb on it, looks best to me.




			
				ansehnlich1 said:
			
		

> ...this morning my wife and I were doin' the yard sale thing and low and behold, layin' there in the grass, was one of these.....
> 
> http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15810&catID=11507
> 
> ...


Congratulations- great find!
May the yard sale gods smile on me next. ;-)


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## Spikem (May 25, 2010)

Is there any reason you could not use a peavey as a cant hook?  I have a great one that I got as a present and haven't used yet.  But I cannot return it to swap it.


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## twitch (May 25, 2010)

I know this is a bit off topic, but I picked up a pulp hook this year, and it's great for moving rounds when cutting a pile of tree length.  Also good for lifting rounds on to the splitter.

http://peaveymfg.com/pulphooks.html


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## Flatbedford (May 25, 2010)

I thought my pulp hook was the greatest thing since sliced bread until I got my pickeroon.
http://peaveymfg.com/pickeroons.html


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## Backwoods Savage (May 25, 2010)

Spikem said:
			
		

> Is there any reason you could not use a peavey as a cant hook?  I have a great one that I got as a present and haven't used yet.  But I cannot return it to swap it.



Spikem, yes you certainly use a peavy as a cant hook. It just doesn't have the toe to bite into the log. If that is what you have, then that is what you will use!


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## Backwoods Savage (May 25, 2010)

On the pulp hooks. Are you guys aware you can also use hay hooks for that? You can get them at Tractor Supply pretty cheap. Only difference is they won't have quite as long of a reach but for those using them while splitting, they work just fine.


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## Stevebass4 (May 26, 2010)

So my little sis borrows my pickup truck and of course my cant hook was in the cab - 

for some reason she took it out and left it next to a shed she was tearing down and then  she proceeds to toss it into the dumpster because she though it was trash 

loved that tool and i got if for free when i bought my saw 


Guess she is buying me a new cant hook 

this looks just like the one she tossed 

Columbus McKinnon Cant Hook — 4ft

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200317105_200317105?cm_ven=Aggregates&cm_cat=Google&cm_pla=Logging>Logging Accessories&cm_ite=119050?ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=119050


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## Backwoods Savage (May 26, 2010)

Oh little sis! What have you done? This is terrible to say the least. But I hope you get a new one you really like Steve.


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## Cluttermagnet (Jun 1, 2010)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> Of the two you have on ebay, I'd go with 48" as that is usually all one really needs. I worked for many years with a 3' handle.
> 
> One things though; I prefer a good wood handle rather than the steel.


I found one, Dennis! Photos below. It has a 3ft wooden handle.



			
				ansehnlich1 said:
			
		

> ...this morning my wife and I were doin' the yard sale thing and low and behold, layin' there in the grass, was one of these.....
> 
> http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15810&catID=11507
> 
> ...





			
				Cluttermagnet said:
			
		

> Congratulations- great find!
> May the yard sale gods smile on me next. ;-)


Things were going my way this past weekend. I found a Craigslist ad with a "Log Roller" listed along with a bunch of other lawn and garden tools. 5 dollars! Yay! I picked it up on Monday, along with several other items at pretty good prices.


This is the garage sale cant hook. Looks like a timberjack with the stand missing.
There is a welded bracket at the end drilled for a T stand.
Pretty much identical to your yard sale item, ansehnlich1- I also paid 5 dollars.
Looks like there could be some logs too big in diameter for this tool.
I haven't yet figured out what the size range is.







This is the timber jack my friend gave me previously. It's kind of a scissor action
tool with two bent pipes with barbs on them. Has a built-in stand of welded angle.
It's also adjustable for different dia. logs with 4 different holes through the smaller tube.





Ironically, I think that this is the one I would be able to get the most leverage out of. The wooden handle on the cant hook has a bulge at the hand end. The handle tapers would make it awkward to try to slip a piece of pipe over it for handle extension. But the metal tubing one has the right shape and diameter to slip a helper tube over it for added leverage. Plus you can set it for much bigger diameter logs. That's a foam rubber handle grip on it BTW. Right now it's set for 'size *2*' (4 being largest).


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## ansehnlich1 (Jun 1, 2010)

Cluttermagnet, that first pic you have there, if that isn't exactly what I bought for $5 I'd have to eat my fiskars! 

That's amazing. And mine is missing the t-bar stand too, but has the bracket on there to bolt it in if I ever got one. 

I just bucked up about 8 cord 2 weeks ago and I was rollin' some pretty good size logs around.

The cant hook god's are surely smilin' upon us


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## Flatbedford (Jun 1, 2010)

ansehnlich1 said:
			
		

> Cluttermagnet, that first pic you have there, if that isn't exactly what I bought for $5 I'd have to eat my fiskars!
> 
> That's amazing. And mine is missing the t-bar stand too, but has the bracket on there to bolt it in if I ever got one.



That's because the stand is pretty much useless. I took mine off after using it twice with. Good find both of you. I paid about $70 for mine!


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## Mass. Wine Guy (Aug 21, 2010)

I've read this thread and need as definite a suggestion as possible. All I want to do is be able to roll logs around (usually no larger than 12 to 15 inches diameter) from bottom to top so I can finish cutting through them with my chainsaw. A cant hook appears to do this well, where a timberjack may or may not. Then there is the peavey, but I rarely work on floating logs.

I appreciate your help.


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## Flatbedford (Aug 21, 2010)

In my opinion, the cant hook is probably best. Although ost timber jacks will work just like a cant hook if you remove the jack part. I own a timber jack, but I took the jack off after a month or so and haven't put it back in more than a year now.


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## Mass. Wine Guy (Aug 21, 2010)

Ok. I can't afford a Logrite. What's a good runner up? Is the cant hook from Peavey good? They did invent the peavey, after all:

http://www.peaveymfg.com/canthook.html


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## Flatbedford (Aug 21, 2010)

I'd go with the Peavey. Made in USA. I talked to them on the phone when I bought my Pickeroon. Very nice, helpful, and friendly people. The shipping was quick and reasonable too. They make high quality stuff.


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## Mass. Wine Guy (Aug 21, 2010)

In a nutshell, why a peavey over a cant hook? I'm pretty much only turning logs over so I can cut through them. Is the blunt end of a cant hook better for this than the spike end of a peavey?


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## Backwoods Savage (Aug 21, 2010)

A peavy does not have a toe on the end to bit into the log whereas a cant hook has the toe. A 30" or 36" cant hook will do all you want done. Good luck.


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## Stevebass4 (Jan 14, 2012)

just wanted to say thanks for the info regarding the Logrite cant hook 

 i was looking at TSC for a replacement and  searched this site and started  reading about the Logrite ones 

  ordered a new Logrite cant hook - sure it was a bit of cash but it was here in two days and it looks like it will last a lifetime

now you guys have me wondering if i need a pickaroon??  not too sure how i would use it - i


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## woodjack (Jan 15, 2012)

I didn't know it was going to cost me $150 when I clicked on this thread.
 A cant hook and pulp hook are in my future.


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## NextEndeavor (Jan 16, 2012)

So for just rolling to work an 18 inch diameter log several feet long, cant hook or peavey?  The cant hook appears to have the point going towards the swingable hook whereas the peavy has the straight spike.  I first thought the short attached stand might be good to lift the log for sawing the chunks off but if one can roll the log up on another piece then why use a stand that will add weight and maybe get in the way?


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## toonces (Jan 17, 2012)

made a trip to LogRite in Vernon and picked up a 40" cant hook and 30" hookaroon fresh off the assembly line. folks there were really nice and told me about some of the custom stuff they did for cyclists (since i work in a bike shop). their log arch looks awesome and is easy to handle. wish i had a reason to have one!

used the cant today on a big hunk of that stuff i picked up and that thing works. sturdy as heck.


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