# stacked storage tanks



## rippa25m (Sep 5, 2015)

I don't get on here and post but I do read a lot of threads and take notes. This is a pic of my two 500 gallon propane tanks I'm stacking.


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## NP ALASKA (Sep 6, 2015)

Nice set up

i stacked 500  also, 

Are the denter pieces gonna be completely  open for enhanced flow?


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## Bob Rohr (Sep 6, 2015)

rippa25m said:


> I don't get on here and post but I do read a lot of threads and take notes. This is a pic of my two 500 gallon propane tanks I'm stacking.




Got enough room to stand them on end?  You will get a lot more temperature stacking and "use-ability" especially if you can run down to a low temperature for radiant or panel rads.


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## NP ALASKA (Sep 8, 2015)

I scored two 1000 gallon propane tanks for cheap.

Thinking about cutting them in half and welding plate in order to set them on end in new boiler room.

any thoughts on cutting them in half like this?


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## 711mhw (Sep 8, 2015)

NP ALASKA said:


> any thoughts on cutting them in half like this?



It maybe overly cautious, but I'd worry about the thickness that you would need for a _flat _plate end (bottom). I'm guessing that you'll be in a closed system and the potential power of pressure is something that I would want an engineer type person's opinion on. I'm curious on what (thickness) "they'll" say here. What's the dia. of your tanks?


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## maple1 (Sep 8, 2015)

I might be overly cautious too - but I wouldn't do any more cutting/drilling of an LP tank than I absolutely had to. If you're lucky it will have enough tappings already that you can plumb in to. You only really need two on each tank, one at the top & one at the bottom. Temp & stat wells can be replaced by strap on & external temp probe controls. Aside from possible leaky welds (I had a couple pinholes even using a pro welder), they were engineered & built that way for a reason. I think cutting in half & welding a plate on will introduce extra stress in the weld area once the tank is stood up & pressurized. Can't say whether it would lead to a problem though - but could see the weld opening up if not done right.

I stacked mine & wouldn't hesitate to do it again - much easier to do, those things are heavy. And tall. I get great stratification, although no doubt that's easier to attain with vertical tanks. Minimizing your flow rates helps tremendously there.


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## NP ALASKA (Sep 8, 2015)

Yep
ive had similar thoughts
initially  i thought 1 inch plate and make it wider for stability  while standing on end 

i will talk with an engineer as you said
ill post the result of that conversation


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## Tennman (Sep 8, 2015)

NP, took a picture of my wife with the 30' Santa in North Pole, AK last week. What pressure do you run your system? We've done some flat plate end flanges, but never for large diameter pressure vessels. In general this is a bad practice for a pressure vessel. Imagine welding a piece of flat bar onto the end the cylinder section of your tank and pulling on the end of the flat bar from inside the cylinder. The load on the weld tries to peel the weld from the inside. In theory that's how your loading a flat plate end disc weld. 

Much better to shorten the center section and re-weld the dome back on. The flat plate can be made to work safely as long as it's thick enough to minimize deflection in the center. The calculation for the center deflection assuming steel isn't difficult. 20 psi on that area is a huge force.

If your system is unpressurized, ignore all the above.


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## warno (Sep 8, 2015)

X2 on the plates being a bad idea. Like tennman said cut some of the "belly" out of the tanks and put the ends back on. Then build a stand with legs if you need to stand them up.


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## NP ALASKA (Sep 9, 2015)

Thanks for all the help

Im 5 minutes from that Santa

On another note, can a person buy the dome ends?
this would allow me to make 4 tanks for vertical installation


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## warno (Sep 9, 2015)

I don't know about around your area but near me we have a place that refurbishes and makes propane tanks ready to buy. They sell the old decommissioned tanks. Still good enough to hold pressure, just out of date tanks. If you could find something like that you could get as many ends as you wanted. But I'm sure you could find them online too. You'll just have to shop around.


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## 711mhw (Sep 9, 2015)

NP ALASKA said:


> Thanks for all the help
> 
> Im 5 minutes from that Santa
> 
> ...


I wouldn't give up yet, just get a opinion/solution from some one that is qualified. Depending of the dia of the circle you need, I would guess, repeat guess that the 1" you were thinking of would be plenty. I would think that this would also require pre-heating the heavy plate prior to welding to the maybe 1/4" wall tank. You might ask over at; http://weldingweb.com/forumdisplay.php?10-Welding-Projects-amp-Pictures
Not sure what would be the best "section" to post your question. There is a wide range of knowledge there and I', sure that some of them have worked on "pressure vessel's".


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## Boardroom (Sep 9, 2015)

I sure hope you guys are wrong. Take a look at my avatar. 1000 gallon tank cut in half and a plate welded on the bottoms.  Last winter was their first in operation. They function beautifully but now you have me worried.  I bought them from a guy who repurposes these tanks specifically to be used as storage for these kinds of systems. I assume I am not the only one he has made this type for.


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## 711mhw (Sep 9, 2015)

30-35 psi may not be that much pressure, my cylinder of 80/20 gas for the MIG welder is over 10k psi when filled. If you made it through last year, and the guy makes these regularly, I wouldn't loose sleep over it. I'm sure that a properly sized expansion tank and a properly working p.r valve might just be a little more important in your situation.


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## warno (Sep 9, 2015)

I can say from experience that a flat bottom will work. It's just not ideal. If the plate is properly welded with the proper reinforcement on the plate, usually on the inside to prevent bulging out, it will work for mild pressure. I wouldn't trust a very high pressure application with plate vs. dome ends.


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## Boardroom (Sep 9, 2015)

I checked with my guy and he says the plates are reinforced with channel iron on the bottom .  He also tests to 35 psi before the tanks are shipped. I usually run at around 20-22 psi max.  Sorry, I forgot to ask how thick the plate was.


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## kjahnz (Sep 10, 2015)

I think I went pretty far, with my tanks. If I did it again, i'd do flat bottoms.


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## NP ALASKA (Sep 12, 2015)

Nice, well Im feeling better about things
But still plan to research the best way ahead


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## PassionForFire&Water (Sep 12, 2015)

kjahnz said:


> I think I went pretty far, with my tanks. If I did it again, i'd do flat bottoms.


These tanks are non-pressurized, correct?
This type of construction will not be able to hold 5 psi, unless there are some stays inside to keep it "flat"


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## NP ALASKA (Sep 12, 2015)

Pressurized  for sure
35 psi pop off
the flat plate on the bottom will be reinforced


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## NP ALASKA (Sep 12, 2015)

ote="kjahnz, post: 1967571, member: 23979"]I think I went pretty far, with my tanks. If I did it again, i'd do flat bottoms.[/quote]
What made you decide to cutt tank and invert dome
Was it clearance


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## NP ALASKA (Sep 13, 2015)

Boardroom said:


> I checked with my guy and he says the plates are reinforced with channel iron on the bottom .  He also tests to 35 psi before the tanks are shipped. I usually run at around 20-22 psi max.  Sorry, I forgot to ask how thick the plate was.


I am interested in the size and thivkness of the plat used for your tanks.
I got two 1000 gallon tank; i want to cutt them in half and weld them same as yours.
4 tanks for a total of about 2000 gallons of storage.
The will be much easier to handle and move like this. If i stack them the entire unit becomes very combersom to handle.

Thnx Morgan


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## PassionForFire&Water (Sep 13, 2015)

Below a picture of an ASME rated tank (section VIII) with flat bottoms (Hydronic Specialty Supply)
You can clearly see the stays, and there are many of them.


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## kjahnz (Sep 14, 2015)

PassionForFire&Water said:


> These tanks are non-pressurized, correct?
> This type of construction will not be able to hold 5 psi, unless there are some stays inside to keep it "flat"




Sorry, but yes they are pressurized, tested to 45 psi. Stays, yes, to keep them from cracking open like eggs.


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## kjahnz (Sep 14, 2015)

NP ALASKA said:


> ote="kjahnz, post: 1967571, member: 23979"]I think I went pretty far, with my tanks. If I did it again, i'd do flat bottoms.


What made you decide to cutt tank and invert dome
Was it clearance[/quote]

Not clearance, just repurposing cost and convenience.

If I did it again, I would cut a circle of the same thickness of the tank wall. Recess that 3 or 4 inches into the tank, weld in place. Then using 3 inch flat stock, weld bracing to wall and plate, every 3 to 4 inches."on edge"

I would gain more volume.


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## warno (Sep 14, 2015)

PassionForFire&Water said:


> Below a picture of an ASME rated tank (section VIII) with flat bottoms (Hydronic Specialty Supply)
> You can clearly see the stays, and there are many of them.



Those look like ends of rods that are welded into the tank. Do they run through the center to the other side? Either that or plug welds holding interior supports in. Either way nice looking tank.


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## DaveBP (Sep 15, 2015)

I think this is about as close as you can get stacked 500 gallon tanks. Inside that skirt around the middle they are actually touching.
Just cleared the center beam in my basement by an inch. They fit nicely under my basement stairway.


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## NP ALASKA (Sep 17, 2015)

Cool thanks
my thought was to weld 1" flat plate square
About 4" beyond the edge of the tank wall helping establish a good stable base


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## NP ALASKA (Sep 17, 2015)

Ive seen these  tanks before
very impressive 
i do not want to stack 1000 gallon tanks as they will be very cumbersome to move
if i cut them ill have 4 500 gallon tanks to deal with


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## PassionForFire&Water (Sep 17, 2015)

warno said:


> Those look like ends of rods that are welded into the tank. Do they run through the center to the other side? Either that or plug welds holding interior supports in. Either way nice looking tank.


These stays run from top to bottom


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## warno (Sep 17, 2015)

That's what it looked like. Good design.


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## Tennman (Sep 17, 2015)

A 42" dia 1" flat plate, simply supported, loaded to 30 psi (some safety factor) deflects ~.14" in the center. The plate weighs almost 400#. Not elegant but acceptable if welded correctly. I'd do full penetration to be safe.

A .5" plate deflects ~1.12" (pretty bad strain on the attachment weld). I think standard tank wall thickness is about 5/16" (.31).... that would be very bad without stiffeners. I ignored fluid weight.

It CAN be done..... but... The good thing is the explosive stored energy is very small so it's not really dangerous if it splits, just messy.


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## Sid (Sep 18, 2015)

I stacked two 500 gal. One is on the floor and other is on stand. Have a 2 inch black union connecting them. Don't know how well it's gonna work but hope to fill the with water soon.


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## Tennman (Sep 18, 2015)

Sid, Looks like your frame will do an efficient job of keeping tanks vertical. What supports the ~5,500 lbs per tank?


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## Tennman (Sep 19, 2015)

LOL..... Sid, Just read your tanks are horizontal elsewhere.... Funny. That sure looks like a wall on the left above.


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## NP ALASKA (Sep 19, 2015)

Sid said:


> I stacked two 500 gal. One is on the floor and other is on stand. Have a 2 inch black union connecting them. Don't know how well it's gonna work but hope to fill the with water soon.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




My current storage is thd same as this, it works great.


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## NP ALASKA (Sep 19, 2015)

PassionForFire&Water said:


> These tanks are non-pressurized, correct?
> This type of construction will not be able to hold 5 psi, unless there are some stays inside to keep it "flat"



I know I guy here in town with a 200 gallon rectangle tank he made out of 3/8 plate, it does have any reinforcement and is pressurized. Should he be concerned?

The side bulged a little I think, no worse that my aluminum fuel tank in my truck, of course it isn't pressurized.


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## NP ALASKA (Sep 19, 2015)

Boardroom said:


> I checked with my guy and he says the plates are reinforced with channel iron on the bottom .  He also tests to 35 psi before the tanks are shipped. I usually run at around 20-22 psi max.  Sorry, I forgot to ask how thick the plate was.



Do you have any PICs of the tanks during construction or before you installed them?

I am really trying to do this right and do not want to stack 1000 gallon tanks. the halves will be so much easier to move around and I think stratification will be better with vertical tanks like this.  Yours perform pretty well don't they?


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## Tennman (Sep 19, 2015)

> I know I guy here in town with a 200 gallon rectangle tank he made out of 3/8 plate, it does have any reinforcement and is pressurized. Should he be concerned?



Concerned that it will fail.... most likely will eventually and make a big mess. Concerned that it will hurt someone.... hard to say. Our boilers are stiffened rectangular pressure vessels. But no professional in his right mind would do flat sided pressurized tank it unless someone did some math on the wall and weld stresses/deflections. Since water's incompressible not a huge amount of energy to send pieces flying when a weld lets go. He should at least skip weld some stiffeners to the outside. That's typical on big flat sided pressure vessels. The stiffeners should run up and down across both spans. Lots of work versus buying something round.


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## Bob Rohr (Sep 19, 2015)

Here is an example of an EvoWorld pellet boiler being built In NY.  It does take a lot of rods, closely spaced to build a flat, pressurized container.  A lot more than I would have guessed.  This is a 30 psi rated HX.


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## tmudd (Sep 22, 2015)

NP ALASKA said:


> I scored two 1000 gallon propane tanks for cheap.
> 
> Thinking about cutting them in half and welding plate in order to set them on end in new boiler room.
> 
> any thoughts on cutting them in half like this?


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## NP ALASKA (Sep 24, 2015)

Ok so im approaching this from another angle

Are vertical tanks better than horizontal?

I may have a way to stack the 1000 fallon beasts but am more interested in approaching the design and effciency side of things.
I currently have stacked 500's
So there is no hurry

If the verticla is best as i think inhabe read many palces in stratification erc
I want to lookat this for sure

Any ideas on wether stacking would be less efficient than vertical
Regards


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## maple1 (Sep 24, 2015)

How do your 500s do?

My stacked 330s do great - I see 40° stratification all the time, and that's in only 5' of tank height (each tank is 2.5' diameter). Would depend on how much flow is going through them though when drawing from storage - I don't think my system draws much more than 5gpm.

I would go vertical if I could do it easily. Otherwise would not hesitate to stack.


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## NP ALASKA (Sep 25, 2015)

My 500's do good
I want the additonal storage for my Alaskan home that see some real negative temperatures

I think i can do vertical if i can get tanks welded reasonably


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## Tennman (Sep 25, 2015)

Look thru Siegenthaler's Training pdf in the top Sticky. Beginning about page 55 shows the physics advantage of vertical. The physics establishes that tall gives better thermocline. But I've never seen any data indicating what % performance benefit there is over being slightly shorter but much wider. I think 1000 gal tanks are the same diameter as 500s so obviously they would offer a significant thermocline advantage standing upright. In another publication somewhere I saw a very tall tank that I believe Siggy put in his own home. Looked like something from a refinery. So "best" for efficiency, physics says tall. On the practical side, Garns are horizontal as are most folks systems here because of height limits and the challenge of erecting them. Everyone here with stacked horizontals are very happy. So... do what you CAN do and you'll be happy. I chose vertical primarily because it offered me the smallest footprint and we had the ceiling height, so we got the best of both worlds. But I will emphasize, it is no small logistics feat to erect just 500 gal tanks inside a building. Also, its much simpler to weld legs to the outside for standing vertical, but sure not simpler to erect them. If you choose to go vertical I'll be glad to calculate the angle size, weld length, and weld fillet size for your legs if you don't have anyone to do that. That is critical from a safety standpoint. And you must consider if your slab can take the more concentrated loads of vertical tanks. Can't help there. Standing up a 1000 gal tank would take some serious equipment and planning. BTW, after we did the welding the next stop was the foamer before coming to the house. You get a bou or moose this year?


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## DaveBP (Sep 25, 2015)

The thermocline in these tanks is never perfect. There is always a band of water that is some mix of hottest-to-coolest and on a horizontal tank that mixed zone is over a larger area and therefore makes a larger volume of water that is not as hot as that ideal stuff above it. 

I think if you're using radiant floors or panels that can efficiently use lower temperature water that volume of 'compromised' water will still be useful. If you have a more typical baseboard setup, on those coldest nights that mixed water may not be so helpful. 

I don't think it's a matter of efficiency so much as that a horizontal tank will have a marginally lower capacity for useful heat in some setups. It's that convenience thing again. Might be able to stay in bed a little longer on those coldest mornings before having to run down to fire the boiler again.

How long? 5 minutes? 20 minutes? Where's Eliot? He could put credible numbers to the difference.


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## ewdudley (Sep 25, 2015)

DaveBP said:


> I don't think it's a matter of efficiency so much as that a horizontal tank will have a marginally lower capacity for useful heat in some setups. It's that convenience thing again. Might be able to stay in bed a little longer on those coldest mornings before having to run down to fire the boiler again.


I recall in high school our physics teacher set up an aquarium half full with red-dyed hot water and then gently piped in some blue-dyed cold water in the bottom.  The layer of purple water was only a couple two three centimeters thick when all was said and done.  And surfacing slowly in a quarry your ears can be warm when your neck is still cold.

Stratification is easy in the case of heat storage from boilers because the supply temperature is reasonably constant and the relative buoyancy across the thermocline is large. The hard cases are: solar heat storage where the supply temperature can vary a lot and it is very difficult to get the water to diffuse at the proper elevation; and chilled water storage, where, although the supply temperature is constant, the difference in density between 32F and 60F water is only about 1/20th the difference in density between 90F and 170F water.

So as Dave points out, the only disadvantage of horizontal is the larger amount of mixed water at the thermocline, so the supply of nice not water will start to peter out sooner.  You still get as much heat out as you put in (give or take differences in standby losses), so the only real difference is that you can store somewhat more heat between firings with vertical as opposed to horizontal tanks, of the same volume.

So vertical may offer some minor thermal storage capacity advantage, but typically it is a moot question since vertical is not an option to begin with.


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## NP ALASKA (Sep 26, 2015)

Tennman said:


> Look thru Siegenthaler's Training pdf in the top Sticky. Beginning about page 55 shows the physics advantage of vertical. The physics establishes that tall gives better thermocline. But I've never seen any data indicating what % performance benefit there is over being slightly shorter but much wider. I think 1000 gal tanks are the same diameter as 500s so obviously they would offer a significant thermocline advantage standing upright. In another publication somewhere I saw a very tall tank that I believe Siggy put in his own home. Looked like something from a refinery. So "best" for efficiency, physics says tall. On the practical side, Garns are horizontal as are most folks systems here because of height limits and the challenge of erecting them. Everyone here with stacked horizontals are very happy. So... do what you CAN do and you'll be happy. I chose vertical primarily because it offered me the smallest footprint and we had the ceiling height, so we got the best of both worlds. But I will emphasize, it is no small logistics feat to erect just 500 gal tanks inside a building. Also, its much simpler to weld legs to the outside for standing vertical, but sure not simpler to erect them. If you choose to go vertical I'll be glad to calculate the angle size, weld length, and weld fillet size for your legs if you don't have anyone to do that. That is critical from a safety standpoint. And you must consider if your slab can take the more concentrated loads of vertical tanks. Can't help there. Standing up a 1000 gal tank would take some serious equipment and planning. BTW, after we did the welding the next stop was the foamer before coming to the house. You get a bou or moose this year?



Thanks, great things to think about.
As for the moose, hows this one look


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## NP ALASKA (Sep 26, 2015)

So, in my case vertical is an option

I just have to modify the tanks

I dont even want to look at stand a 1000 gal tank on end

The idea is cool, but building a building for it is crazy talk

I am building a 3 rd garage bay that will be used to house my boiler and tanks, just wont be enough for standing these beasts on end as is

I am planning for a real good footer with 10" of crete where tanks will sit


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## Tennman (Sep 26, 2015)

Exactly, the idea is cool, but....

I'd enjoy a moose story, but might get shut down. Huge!


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## NP ALASKA (Sep 26, 2015)

So with the new addition, i am making it large enough for boiler, pellet hopper, 2 cord of wood, tanks, skidsteer, pallet of pellets.
8' to 10' ceiling height is my thought

I considered putting tanks in a hole, but water table here is so high i worry about it. I can dig 10'-12' and hit water here

Half in hole half in building 
Vertical 1000 gal tanks
Side by side sounds cool
And i need hotter water with old school base board fin in entire house

Regards


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## Bj1234 (Sep 29, 2015)

Hi everyone - I do read a lot of everyone's posts here but I never posted before.
Here's my situation, looking for someone's input /thoughts...

I have a geothermal Furnace. It sucks up here in Norther Indiana. Sucks up a ton of electricity in the winter $700/mo worth.

So I want to get a Natures Comfort Ncb 120 rated for 3000sqft  160,000btu . I don't want to spend a fortune yet unill I see that the wood burner will work for me. So to get the most out of the NCB 120 , I thought what if I add a 75 gallon hot water heater as a small storage tank since  I already have one that's attached to my radiant Floor heat. Is that worth doing or not enough?
Or should I get 1 - 500 gallon tank as a start instead.? I'm trying to take baby steps in the best way I can and then upgrade later after  I know the wood burner does the job. Just don't want to buy a $10k gasser until I know I like how the Natures comfort runs. (Trying to avoid another geo thermal mistake)we tried to be green with the geo but that was a expensive mistake, we can be green with a future gasification but I want to start small first till i get the feel of wood burning ...  I know I can sell it (ncb 120) cause it seems like each time I look at a used one it's sold already...
can anyone give me advise on this small unit and adding storage tanks later to make up the difference for the small size.  is this a stupid idea or worth trying? I'm being cheap..but I really  want to try the smallest cheapest way possible for starting out.
Why..cause I like outdoor activities like splitting wood (it's a guy thing u know ) and I'd like my heating bill to not be so high anymore. Sound like a fun long term hobby. 
My stats-
New house 3400sq ft ranch .basement 1500sqft radiant Floor heat..garage 800sqft radiant Floor heat... winters steady around 25deg with maybe a couple weeks  in the single digits a year. We keep are furnace at 68 cause geothermal  is expensive. I would Luke to keep it at 70-72

Thanks


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## maple1 (Sep 29, 2015)

Bj1234 said:


> Hi everyone - I do read a lot of everyone's posts here but I never posted before.
> Here's my situation, looking for someone's input /thoughts...
> 
> I have a geothermal Furnace. It sucks up here in Norther Indiana. Sucks up a ton of electricity in the winter $700/mo worth.
> ...


 
You might be better off starting a separate thread for your questions.

But storage doesn't really help an OWB much, and 75 gallons just isn't much storage. I have 660 and would like more.

The idea of storage is so you can burn wide open until the fuel is gone, and store the heat your house wouldn't be using when you do that. Then after the fire goes out you draw heat from storage. With an OWB that would mean it would go cold when drawing from storage. Which might pose freezeup problems, and would waste a lot of heat heating all that now-cold water back up together with what it loses when it is cooling down.

Have you checked out the classified section here? There are some used indoor gasifiers in there for sale. If I wanted to heat water with wood but didn't want the boiler in my house, I would put an indoor boiler in an outbuilding together with my entire winters wood. And put storage in the basement.


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## Bj1234 (Sep 29, 2015)

maple1 said:


> You might be better off starting a separate thread for your questions.
> 
> But storage doesn't really help an OWB much, and 75 gallons just isn't much storage. I have 660 and would like more.
> 
> ...


  I did check,the for sale thread but I look again for the indoor wood burner suggestion. And I replyed to the thread cause you all were talking about storage. After re-reading it I guess I  did go pretty deep on my question....I ll try another thread for my other issues. .thanks for the  suggestion though ...


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## rippa25m (Oct 6, 2015)

NP ALASKA said:


> Nice set up
> 
> i stacked 500  also,
> 
> Are


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## BoiledOver (Oct 6, 2015)

I too have stacked 500's, around here they are called stubbies because they are shorter in length and a might larger in diameter. A close recollection is 42" x 92". I am totally satisfied with stacked horizontally and see good stratification. They have 3 - 1" holes to flow from one to the other and could have gone larger. Larger hole will cause less stirring, my thoughts anyway. They are installed in a nine foot ceiling height and just makes it for the insulation and plumbing out the top.


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## rippa25m (Oct 30, 2015)

BoiledOver said:


> I too have stacked 500's, around here they are called stubbies because they are shorter in length and a might larger in diameter. A close recollection is 42" x 92". I am totally satisfied with stacked horizontally and see good stratification. They have 3 - 1" holes to flow from one to the other and could have gone larger. Larger hole will cause less stirring, my thoughts anyway. They are installed in a nine foot ceiling height and just makes it for the insulation and plumbing out the top.


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## NP ALASKA (Sep 29, 2017)

kjahnz said:


> I think I went pretty far, with my tanks. If I did it again, i'd do flat bottoms.


How is your tank design performing so far- I am curious as I have still. Ot done anything with my two 1000 gallon tanks

Thanks


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## rippa25m (Sep 29, 2017)

NP ALASKA said:


> How is your tank design performing so far- I am curious as I have still. Ot done anything with my two 1000 gallon tanks
> 
> Thanks


I am more then happy with it. Stratification is excellent. I hear a 60x45 shop and a 2800 square foot home with it and my water temp never drops below 140 degrees.


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## Boardroom (Sep 29, 2017)

Hey NP. We had talked about my flat bottom tanks earlier in this thread.  Just thought I would let you know that they are still going strong. 3 Winters now with no issues. Great Stratification.


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## nhtreehouse (Sep 30, 2017)

NP ALASKA said:


> I dont even want to look at stand a 1000 gal tank on end
> 
> The idea is cool, but building a building for it is crazy talk



I know I'm crazy. I'm working on a building designed around a 1000 gallon vertical tank. Instead of going down into the ground, I decided on a cupola to hide the top of the tank.

Can't say how it stratifies, as it's currently filled with air...







If you're looking for design ideas, the concrete slab under the tank is 12" thick with a rebar mesh made out of 1/2" rebar on 12" centers. The 1/4" steel plate under the tank is intended to spread any point loads from the tank feet. The door in the above pic is a standard 6'-8" version and the fire stops are approx 8' off the slab.

The tall wall is 16' with a 4' cupola on top. Here's an outside view taken when you could still see the tank.






Just throwing out some ideas for you to consider. There are plenty of ways to think outside this box.


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## JohnDolz (Sep 30, 2017)

nhtreehouse said:


> I know I'm crazy. I'm working on a building designed around a 1000 gallon vertical tank. Instead of going down into the ground, I decided on a cupola to hide the top of the tank.
> 
> Can't say how it stratifies, as it's currently filled with air...
> 
> ...


You going to get some heat out of that thing this year? Looking good!


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## nhtreehouse (Oct 2, 2017)

JohnDolz said:


> You going to get some heat out of that thing this year? Looking good!



Sure hope to! Getting chilly up north these days... Getting it all running by Thanksgiving would be great, but Christmas is a better bet... maybe new years?


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## Bob Rohr (Oct 3, 2017)

You can purchase those domed "heads". LP tanks are usually a standard diameter.  If you cut the tank it may. Be easier to start with a clean new head.  Shop online, I sourced some from Quality Tank in WI. 

The dome can be up, like the bottom of typical hw tanks, or domed out like the top of hw tanks

When I stood my 500 gallon LP tank on end I carved out a piece of 3" foam to the shape of the dome  for extra support and to lessen the load on the legs. It also insulated the end from the concrete


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