# Wood splitter advice



## relayer (Sep 20, 2011)

As a very long time hand splitter of fire wood age is catching up with me.  I thinking of getting a log splitter.  My question is what should I be looking for in a log Splitter.  I helped people before using a splitter and they all seems to split wood but I want to go deeper in it.  Things like clyinder size, speed of return and other things that someone who has very little knowledge of a wood splitter be looking for.  I listed below what I will be splitting and how much. 

I will only be splitting 15 inch long logs.
The trees on my property are no bigger than 24 inches and most are less than 14 inches.
I split about 3 to 4 cords a year.  Not really sure on the amount - new stove and new house.
It's all hardwood - Oak, maple, birch, cherry

Thanks for the help.


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## TreePointer (Sep 20, 2011)

3-4 cords/year is no problem for a consumer model 20-22 ton hydraulic splitter with a 2-stage pump.  Some folks like to split in vertical and especially for large rounds, so an hydraulic vertical/horizontal model is what they like.  Others like horizontal only splitters with the wedge on the beam instead of the ram.  Bad back?  Look for a more expensive splitter with a log lift.

About 14-15s cycle time (down and back without load) is what you'll get with a decent hydraulic model, and there are faster (Iron & Oak makes an 8 second hydraulic).    Note that a fast factory rated cycle time on a 20-ton model may actually be slower in practice than a slower rated 35-ton model because the 35-tonner will spend less time in the slower (but more powerful) second stage of the pump than the 20-ton model ON TOUGH ROUNDS.  Cycle times are highly debated here and many say they're overrated, but IMO, stay away from 17+ second cycle times.  The bottom line is you don't want the splitter to be slower than you can work.

Flywheel models like Super Split, SpeedPro, DR, and WoodWolf will get you ~3 seconds cycle time.  There are videos of this type on YouTube.

As part of your search, stop by a Tractor Supply store.  Around here, they'll start their Huskee (SpeeCo) splitters and split some wood for you.


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## Stihl_WoodBandit (Sep 20, 2011)

I've built two and bought one from Tractor Supply.  I enjoyed giving the two homemade ones my personal touch and customizing them to suit me.  Most common is a 24" stroke on the hydraulic cylinder which will take eat up cycle time if you're only splitting 15" logs.  I would go with a 4.5 or 5" bore x 20" or so cylinder-always good to have a few extra inches just in case. And the larger the bore size (and the ram/piston itself) the stronger it will be when you split through tough wood.  

Think about the orientation of the splitter...horizontal versus vertical.  If you're fit and only manhandle managable size wood, then a horizontal model might be your choice. Big rounds (without quartering) might lean someone towards a horz/vert model.  I tried the H/V kind from TSC and didnt like it.  I would rather put a wedge through it and halve it or quarter it and do everything in the upright position.  

Western PA....Tractor Supply, Rural King, Northern Tool, Swisher, Ramsplitter, American MSR, or if you have money to blow you could go with a Timberwolf.  Google "log splitter", ebay it, or search it on here.  
Keep us posted.


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## MasterMech (Sep 20, 2011)

The Iron & Oak in my signature has been blasting through rounds for 3 seasons now. I, and everyone who splits with me, LOVE it. I have used/rented bigger and better but can't justify $6000 machines, no matter how much I want to. :coolgrin: 

Horizontal machines with log lifts and tables to catch the splits are probably the most productive if you split big rounds fairly often. I use the vertical mode on my H/V to halve or quarter rounds into manageable sizes before going horizontal to resume production. Log tables/cradles and log dis-lodgers are fantastic if not must-have features to add-on if the machine doesn't already have them.

Ton ratings are to be taken with a grain of salt. I have seen 16 ton machines split the monster rounds and seen 27 ton machines struggle with a 15" knotty bough.

Cycle Time (Cylinder Size vs. Pump GPM) should be the #1 consideration as to the productivity of the machine. Some here will disagree saying you don't have to use the full cycle, can't outwork the machine anyway, etc. All true. The way I see it, with the splitter running, I'm not there to multi-task, I'm in it to make big rounds into small splits. I don't stack while I split. I usually split and toss the splits into a pile to stack later or a vehicle to haul home. If the wedge on the machine isn't moving, I'm wasting time and fuel. Don't fret over a 1 second difference but there is a huge difference between running a 18+ second machine as opposed to a 12 second unit.

Machine construction is often overlooked (especially at lower price points) but there have been problems reported with units that have the cylinder mounted mid-casing as opposed to a heavy clevis on the end. If the cylinder hangs off the end of the beam, these are the machines I'm talking about. There have been weld/casing failures causing hydraulic leaks. You do not want to swim in hot hydro oil.

Larger hydraulic reservoir usually mean lower fluid temps and longer hydraulic component life as a result.

2-Stage pumps are almost universal now unless you find a older used machine or a home-built unit. They actually are 2 pumps in one with the second pump having it's pressure relief set lower than the primary stage. When enough resistance is met, the pressure rises and that pressure relief opens, effectively disabling that half of the pump. The other stage continues to the higher pressures required to split the log but the total flow from the pump is usually halved, slowing cylinder travel and reducing power requirements from the engine. This allows smaller, more affordable engines to be used for a given ton rating while maintaining fast cycle times for small logs and the return stroke.

Engines: I personally do not care for the units that use a vertical shaft "lawn mower" type engine as they are usually noisier and tend to be less reliable than other choices. On the upside they are relatively inexpensive to replace and you may not have any alternative depending on your price range. Any engine that you take care of will last for many years on a log splitter. I will offer a professional opinion tho. I am a fan of Robin/Subaru small engines. They start easy, run quiet and are rock-solid reliable. They typically are much less $$ than a Honda GX series engine as well. I have nothing against the Hondas other than the price tag as they are a great engine as well. Briggs & Stratton is probably the most common engine out there and they do make some good engines too. But they have many levels of quality and often the difference are near impossible to see by the exterior of the engine. They have a base level, the Intek, Intek I/C, and the Vanguard line represents their best efforts. Here's a hint that applies to ANY small engine. Look for the EPA emissions tag attached to every new engine. Does it say the engine is rated for Moderate, Intermediate, or Extended use? That's a very good clue as to what your buying and how long that engine was designed to last. Pay no mind to any actual hour rating (ie. 100hrs) that may be listed as the engine's useful lifespan will far exceed that number. Only the Moderate, Intermediate, or Extended rating is important.

It doesn't look like you want to split crazy huge rounds so I'd say the 20-22 ton machines offered by various manufacturers would suffice quite nicely. Remember even if your not splitting long pieces you don't have to retract the wedge all the way so you can shorten the cycle that way.

Some links to the different machines available that many here own:

http://www.timberwolfcorp.com/log_splitters/
http://www.ironandoak.com/itemlist.php?mode=category&categoryid=103&parentid=0
http://www.braveproducts.com/itemlist.php?mode=category&categoryid=103
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_logging+log-splitters
http://www.tractorsupply.com/outdoor-power-equipment/log-splitters
http://www.troybilt.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category2_10001_14102_55971_54998_54998_-1

I'm thinking this thread belongs over in "The Gear".


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## relayer (Sep 20, 2011)

Thanks for all the information.  A lot of good information already.  Was not sure of which one to post in as I was looking for information on what makes a good log splitter as oppose to different makes or what people use.  Like the information of return time -- from what a read so far you can only work so fast so if it takes me 12 seconds to load the wood each time then buying a more costly 3 seconds machine not going to help.  And it turn I do not want to be standing there forever waiting for the the machine to come back wasting time and gas.  I'm sorry if I did make a mistake and posted in the wrong place, if so is there a way to move this post.


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## kettensÃ¤ge (Sep 20, 2011)

I wouldn't worry much about cycle times. Most good splitters lock the control handle while the cylinder is returning, you can be reaching for the next round at the same time. You will be so much more productive with power equipment VS. manual labor and will be hard pressed to completely utilize the equipment when you first use it, although you will improve with time. Cycle times are for marketing, most popular machines will be competitive. To me max log length is more important than cycle time, with only a 24" stroke you will inevitably have some logs the won't fit and will have to trim them. A 30" capacity machine eliminate the need for that.
When I switched I looked for a name brand and bought the highest capacity I could afford. I like to oversize power equipment VS my actual need to allow for future growth and have a machine that hopefully tougher than anything I can throw at it vs. being just enough. Higher upfont cost is usually off set by a better resale price in the future.

You will also need a way to move whatever you buy whether you rig a hitch onto your ATV, lawn tractor or other motor vehicle. 

Any of the company's listed in MasterMech's post should be able to supply what you need.


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## Got Wood (Sep 20, 2011)

Based on the size of the wood (15" long , most less than 14" diam) you may be able to get by with an electric splitter. I have no experience with them but have read on this site that some folks find it sufficient.
I have the Huskee and cant see needing anything more - it handles everything I throw at it

Current thread in Gear forum on electric splitters:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/78750/


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## oldspark (Sep 20, 2011)

"I have the Huskee and cant see needing anything more - it handles everything I throw at it"
+1 I have the 22 ton Huskee (Spenco) and most of the wood I split pops right away, seems to be very well built for the price.


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## certified106 (Sep 20, 2011)

oldspark said:
			
		

> "I have the Huskee and cant see needing anything more - it handles everything I throw at it"
> +1 I have the 22 ton Huskee (Spenco) and most of the wood I split pops right away, seems to be very well built for the price.



Same here, It's just hard to beat it for the price


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## charly (Sep 20, 2011)

A SuperSplit would do you fine. Fast, no hydraulics and can even be ordered with an electric motor. I had one for 20 years. Sold only because I bought a gasafacation boiler that would take 30 inch length's of wood. Went with a hydraulic SplitFire splitter. Loved it. Sold my place. New place installed a regular wood stove,,,,,sold my SplitFire not needing all that stroke, and back to another SuperSplit. Happy again! You should check one out in person. You won't look back! Splitter is always waiting on your for another piece to be split, your never waiting for the splitter. 3 second cycle time.


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## TreePointer (Sep 20, 2011)

The decision gets easier when you visit the stores/dealers so you can see them in action.  You might not be able to get a demonstration at Lowe's/Home Depot, but TSC and local dealers should accommodate.  

Look at beam height
Thickness of metal on various parts
Loudness of engine
Solid toe plate?
Engine position
Shape of wedge
Lift tongue to feel weight/balance
See it cycle, etc.

Also check out chain and local rental stores--many of them can order new splitters for you and you might run into a deal on a used model.


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## firefighterjake (Sep 20, 2011)

relayer said:
			
		

> As a very long time hand splitter of fire wood age is catching up with me.  I thinking of getting a log splitter.  My question is what should I be looking for in a log Splitter.  I helped people before using a splitter and they all seems to split wood but I want to go deeper in it.  Things like clyinder size, speed of return and other things that someone who has very little knowledge of a wood splitter be looking for.  I listed below what I will be splitting and how much.
> 
> I will only be splitting 15 inch long logs.
> The trees on my property are no bigger than 24 inches and most are less than 14 inches.
> ...



Only my opinion . . .

Size: I would think a 20-22 ton splitter would be fine for 99% of what you would run across . . . and truthfully just about any splitter of that size or larger will be less taxing on you physically vs. using a maul, ax, etc.

Brand: Iron and Oak seems to be the Cadillac of splitters . . . but I suspect that unless you want to shell out a lot of money for what you will split a MTD (or one of their many clones) or Huskee splitter will work fine. 

Engine: Honda engines are nice . . . but not all are created equal. I ended up with a Briggs engine on my splitter and to be honest it has worked out well . . . hasn't failed to start with just a few pulls in three years . . . plus parts are cheap and easily available . . . and if I need to I can just pull the engine and put another one on it for not a lot of cash -- although so far that doesn't seem to be an issue.

Tech Stuff like Speed/Cylinder Size/Etc.: I'm no engineer . . . I just split wood. All I want is a splitter that does the job safely and reliably. I suspect most any hydraulic splitter will do so. As for speed . . . I think my splitter is a bit on the slow side, but it's rare that I have to a) split all the way through for the full stroke and b) typically it works as fast if not faster than I can.

Features: Different folks have different opinions on features. Me -- I would not even consider a splitter without the ability to split horizontally or vertically (or at the very least have a log lift) -- Dennis and I kid each other about our splitting habits, but truthfully I like the ability to split vertically on those rare times I have a monster split that is just too heavy to man-handle on to the beam. Another feature I like is a table or cradle to support the split wood -- it supports those pieces that you may want to split again and keeps you from constantly bending over.


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## charly (Sep 20, 2011)

relayer said:
			
		

> As a very long time hand splitter of fire wood age is catching up with me.  I thinking of getting a log splitter.  My question is what should I be looking for in a log Splitter.  I helped people before using a splitter and they all seems to split wood but I want to go deeper in it.  Things like clyinder size, speed of return and other things that someone who has very little knowledge of a wood splitter be looking for.  I listed below what I will be splitting and how much.
> 
> I will only be splitting 15 inch long logs.
> The trees on my property are no bigger than 24 inches and most are less than 14 inches.
> ...


  Relayer, another nice thing with the SuperSplit, is even with the production table, you can lift it up and wheel it around by hand. They are not set up with high speed bearings in the wheels to tow down the road. It is set up to take a 2x2 inch piece of pipe so if you want to tow it around your place something can be installed. I have a dedicated place I split my wood, so simply roll it out of my garage by hand and roll it back in when I'm done. No tow vehicle needed for me. Plus it easy to move as you build a large wood pile in front. It sips fuel as well for what you get split. If you call SuperSplit, they might have someone near you who could demo the splitter for you. Anyone over the years who has watched me split with it has been blown away. My first one went to a guy who sells firewood, he had it 2 months and another guy who sells wood, drove up to check it out and paid my friend cash for the SuperSplit, it went on it's way to another owner. Get what you feel comfortable with, but it would be worth your while to see one in person. I used my first one for about 20 years, splitting 10 cords a year , zero problems. It's still going now some where's.


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## jdinspector (Sep 20, 2011)

I have a RamSplitter electric 16 ton model that I've used for about 2-3 years now. I've pushed 6-10 cords through it no problem. 

Some benefits:
Made in USA
quiet compared to gas- really quiet!
no gasoline usage
nobody can borrow it because they don't have a 240 volt plug at their house! (unexpected benefit)
cheap to use and maintain.

Some negatives
not transportable further than your extension cord is long. I bought a 12 gauge 100 footer for $100 and then had to put on the 240 volt male/female plugs. That whole thing cost about $130 of unexpected cost (included the extension cord)
not as strong as my old gas powered unit, but it will split just about anything I throw at it. I haven't been stuck yet- just had to whittle away at some larger rounds.


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## DanCorcoran (Sep 20, 2011)

Food for thought:  I've read on this forum and heard elsewhere that most people end up buying a lot more splitter than they need.


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## golfandwoodnut (Sep 20, 2011)

Relayer, welcome, I am another Western PA guy.  Seems like TSC is hard to beat, I have looked at the 22 Ton MTD for quite awhile, I think it is on sale now ($999) which is hard to beat.  I haven't gotten one yet, they also recently started selling a supersplit clone as I understand it.  I have not seen one yet.


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## Jags (Sep 20, 2011)

If you are looking at splitter choices, you have gotten many.  I will approach it from a different direction with specs.  This is only my opinion based on the info that you gave in your first post.

4" ram X 20" stroke (or 4.5" x 20" with 4 way wedge)
16 GPM 2 stage pump
8HP engine.
Horizontal with work table.

This will be a tough combo to find, BUT there is logic in my choices.  A 4" ram with a 16GPM pump will have outstanding cycle times.  A 4.5 with a 4 way will logically even produce more.  You have NO need to go with a larger ram with the wood described in your first post.  A larger cylinder will offer you nothing but slower speeds (this coming from a dude running a 5" diam.)

Now comes the debatable part - Horizontal with work table. We got off of all fours many years ago.  I don't really care to regress.  The ONLY argument I find valid for vert. splitting is to break apart large rounds.  IF you can lift any basic round that you would be working with, the vert option is off the table in my opinion.  THIS IS ONLY MY OPINION and many will refute it.  Dunno, maybe you got back problems that would lend itself to sit'in and split'in.  When I am in front of my splitter I am all about production.

The Iron and Oak is one of the few that I know of with this combo, but they are a bit pricey in comparison to some of the other machines.  Ain't nothing wrong with the 22 ton units that were commented on, above.

One dudes opinion.


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## Backwoods Savage (Sep 21, 2011)

relayer said:
			
		

> As a very long time hand splitter of fire wood age is catching up with me.  I thinking of getting a log splitter.  My question is what should I be looking for in a log Splitter.  I helped people before using a splitter and they all seems to split wood but I want to go deeper in it.  Things like clyinder size, speed of return and other things that someone who has very little knowledge of a wood splitter be looking for.  I listed below what I will be splitting and how much.
> 
> I will only be splitting 15 inch long logs.
> The trees on my property are no bigger than 24 inches and most are less than 14 inches.
> ...



relayer, I don't recall welcoming you to the forum before so consider this a warm welcome. 

I fondly recall many moons ago when we were faced with the same situation you are in. I had never seen a store-bought splitter work at all before we purchased ours so I was really in the dark. However, we lucked out and talked to a manager of the Quality Farm and Fleet store (since bought out by Tractor Supply). They had a sale on splitters and my wife and I had talked for quite some time about buying. Long story short, we got a real deal and bought a 20 ton MTD with a Briggs and Stratton engine 5 hp. The pump is a 2 stage. I have no idea what cycle time is nor do I care. That is the most highly over rated thing about splitters. The reason for this is that you rarely will use the entire stroke! For some wood, you'll drive that wedge just a few inches into the wood and it splits. You then raise the wedge, not to the top, but only high enough to clear the next log you will set in. Doing it that way the splitting will go really fast and you will not be concerned with cycle time. However, if you want to do this commercially and split 10 cord per day then it might be worth thinking about. 

So you see, we bought a small 20 ton. We did not buy a Honda engine and our engine is only 5 hp. Since purchasing that splitter it has split everything we wanted to split and we have split well over 100 cord and probably over 200 by now. The only problem we have had with the splitter is that I had to shorten the starter rope earlier this year as about 6" broke off. That has been the total repair of this splitter. 

The MTD that we have is very comparable to the present Huskee 22 ton splitter. From what we've seen and heard, some of the larger splitters are faster and some are actually slower. It seems to get faster you would have to go well over 30 ton but I see no reason to spend the extra dollars in buying one. I also see no reason to spend the dollars to get a hydraulic log lift. If you split your wood vertically, there is no need for the added cost of a lift and the biggest reason is if you split vertically, you do not have to lift every log before splitting. You can sit on your backside and split all day without lifting those logs. I try to not be lazy, but I also try to not work harder than necessary.


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## Gooserider (Sep 21, 2011)

I have an H/V splitter, and I have NEVER used it in horizontal mode, and can't think of any reason that I ever would (assuming that I could still process any sort of wood... :long: )

I would always stack my to-be-split wood to one side and behind me, and SIT on a short stool or appropriately sized round, and split away, tossing the finished splits to a pile away from the splitter.  I used a couple of pulp hooks to increase my reach, and sometimes help w/ positioning rounds.  By the time I would get done with all I could reach, I would be ready for a "motion change break" and either move more wood to within reach, or shift the splitter position depending.....  If you have assistants that can keep feeding raw material to you, then you can split as long as your butt holds out....  No need to bend to pick up each round...  I've used Super-splits, and they are fast, but the constant bending to pick up the wood makes them far more tiring to use IMHO.  (Although again the use of pulp hooks can help a lot...)

Most "standard" splitters are going to have a pump / cylinder / engine combo that will give a roughly similar cycle time, and IMHO it is RARE that there is any real justification for more than the ~20-ton models, so I would not pay significantly more money for a larger size.  (I have a 30 ton, with a pressure gage and it was VERY rare that it would ever even get close to the (calculated) 20-ton pressure range, even doing big rounds of curly maple, or elm....) Using a friend's 20 ton, I almost never had a split that I couldn't break down, though a few might take multiple "hits".  Almost not worth splitting those rounds anyway as they always came out as twisty ugly things that were a pain to stack, etc...

I personally did not like the "auto-return" on most valves, and preferred to operate manually both up and down - especially if you are doing shorter rounds - sure you have the ram go up all the way while you get rid of the old splits, but you then have to WAIT while it manually travels all the way back down....  I found most rounds would split within the first inch or two of ram travel once you contacted the round.  Long as the "raw material" is consistently sized, it was MUCH faster to manually cycle the machine just the two-three inches needed to split one round and then go back up to the inch or less above the round position you need to place the next round...  Even a "slow" machine works fast if you are only using a 3" or less "stroke length"  You can get add-on clamps to limit automatic stroke return length, but they are a pain to remove to deal with the occasional oversize round....

(I posted lots about picking splitters and such a couple years ago before I got hurt, might be worth digging up some of those old threads....)

Gooserider


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## Backwoods Savage (Sep 21, 2011)

Goose, good to see a post from you again. I hope things are going well for you.


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## John the Painter (Sep 21, 2011)

Got Wood said:
			
		

> Based on the size of the wood (15" long , most less than 14" diam) you may be able to get by with an electric splitter. I have no experience with them but have read on this site that some folks find it sufficient.
> I have the Huskee and cant see needing anything more - it handles everything I throw at it
> 
> Current thread in Gear forum on electric splitters:
> https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/78750/



+1 I have an electric splitter and I do 6 or so cord a year and it will do 99% of what I need.


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## relayer (Sep 21, 2011)

A lot of information to take in.  Have been looking at splitters online and will be heading to Tractor Supply tomorrow to take a look at some splitters.  

Thanks for all the information and the welcomes.


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## firefighterjake (Sep 21, 2011)

I was wondering if the Goose would be making an appearance on this thread . . . in my mind he's always been one of the foremost experts here when it comes to the nuts and bolts of splitters . . . even though I see that he is clearly in Dennis' "Only Splitting Vertical" Camp.  It's good to hear from you Goose.


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## Backwoods Savage (Sep 21, 2011)

relayer said:
			
		

> A lot of information to take in.  Have been looking at splitters online and will be heading to Tractor Supply tomorrow to take a look at some splitters.
> 
> Thanks for all the information and the welcomes.



relayer, don't be afraid to take some tough splitting wood logs with you when at TSC. Make them show you how well it will work.


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## Backwoods Savage (Sep 21, 2011)

firefighterjake said:
			
		

> I was wondering if the Goose would be making an appearance on this thread . . . in my mind he's always been one of the foremost experts here when it comes to the nuts and bolts of splitters . . . even though I see that he is clearly in Dennis' "Only Splitting Vertical" Camp.  It's good to hear from you Goose.



Right Jake. One more who splits the right way.


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## chvymn99 (Sep 21, 2011)

I bought the Swisher 34 ton Splitter, and have been more than thrilled so far with its performance.  I was a little nervous about the belt drive on the pump drive.  But I concluded that I would rather replace a belt than a direct drive unit.  Its split Hedge, Elm, and Box Elder fine so far.  I really like the base of the drive and support of this splitter.  Its built heavy duty, from the Beam to the foot (metal not cast).  The only issue that I have with it is that its only got one anti-slip marker on the foot.  I'll probably add another couple, since scrounging you get angled cutts regularly.  Good Luck


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## mikefrommaine (Sep 21, 2011)

Fwiw I would never buy another piece of equipment without a honda engine. I have one Honda engine with over a thousand hours with no problems. Starts every time with a single half hearted pull. Can't say that about any other brand I own.


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## wood-fan-atic (Sep 21, 2011)

certified106 said:
			
		

> oldspark said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



+1... best $$ I ever spent. Only regret is not buying one years ago. Low cost, simple, strong, reliable. That is a good combination, if you ask me. They also go on sale at TSC around this time of year for $999 ( and they gave me a $150 gift card with it, too!)


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## pmac (Sep 22, 2011)

certified106 said:
			
		

> oldspark said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I picked up this same splitter from Tractor Supply during the Labor Day sale. So far, it's split everything I've thrown at it, including oak rounds that were 1 ft thick, 2 1/2 ft in diameter (using vertically). The power is more than enough for me.

HOWEVER... when I first got this splitter, the coupling between the engine and pump broke after 4 hours of use (which apparently other folks here have had an issue with). Tractor Supply promptly exchanged for another new one... and on this one, the hex bolts on the forward/reverse valve worked themselves loose after about 10 hours of use. It's unfortunate, especially when seeing the big "Made in the USA" sticker on it, to have construction issues like this come up.


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## TreePointer (Sep 22, 2011)

If I recall correctly, the latest stickers say "Assembled in USA" on those Huskee splitters.  The SpeeCo/Huskee splitter is a great splitter for the money, but it is unfortunate that a few TSC employees fail in performing final assembly at the TSC location.  I am fortunate to have a TSC with competent employees.


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## pmac (Sep 23, 2011)

TreePointer said:
			
		

> If I recall correctly, the latest stickers say "Assembled in USA" on those Huskee splitters.  The SpeeCo/Huskee splitter is a great splitter for the money, but it is unfortunate that a few TSC employees fail in performing final assembly at the TSC location.  I am fortunate to have a TSC with competent employees.



Yup, you're right... I hadn't noticed that distinction until you brought it up! Parts made overseas, assembled here?!?


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## MasterMech (Sep 23, 2011)

pmac said:
			
		

> TreePointer said:
> 
> 
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Like every Honda, Toyota, Subaru, and many other makes of foreign automobile.  Even the so called "domestics", how many of your interior gadgets were manufactured in the US?

We manufacture very little in the US in the way of raw materials and individual components but I'm getting dangerously close to Ash Can territory here.........


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## freeburn (Sep 23, 2011)

I noticed that the 22 ton huskee is 999 at TSC as a regular price. I wonder if they saved a bit sending it overseas to be assembled??? Anyone have any information or can you direct me to information on the Ramsplitter? I picked up a used 16 ton ver/hor model with Honda 160GC (would have preferred GX, but it's Honda, and starts first pull every time) that was hardly used two years old. The only problem I'm having is that the hydraulic fluid wants to gush out of the cap? Maybe I need to be on more level ground!! Don't want to hijack this thread though. Maybe another one to consider, made in US. besides Iron and Oak.


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## freeburn (Sep 23, 2011)

mikefrommaine said:
			
		

> Fwiw I would never buy another piece of equipment without a honda engine. I have one Honda engine with over a thousand hours with no problems. Starts every time with a single half hearted pull. Can't say that about any other brand I own.


 Which Honda motor do you have on yours? GC or GX? if GC do you notice the engine surging when at full throttle. I was told that that's just how they run.


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## lukem (Sep 23, 2011)

freeburn said:
			
		

> I noticed that the 22 ton huskee is 999 at TSC as a regular price. I wonder if they saved a bit sending it overseas to be assembled??? Anyone have any information or can you direct me to information on the Ramsplitter? I picked up a used 16 ton ver/hor model with Honda 160GC (would have preferred GX, but it's Honda, and starts first pull every time) that was hardly used two years old. The only problem I'm having is that the hydraulic fluid wants to gush out of the cap? Maybe I need to be on more level ground!! Don't want to hijack this thread though. Maybe another one to consider, made in US. besides Iron and Oak.



I was at TSC today and they were all tagged $999.  They are a good splitter for your average user trying to heat their house.  Never had any fluid gushing from mine...maybe you are overfilled?


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## MasterMech (Sep 23, 2011)

Can be overfilled, hyd fluid expands when it gets hot, quite a bit actually.  It'll stop eventually ....


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## TreePointer (Sep 23, 2011)

Hydraulic fluid gushing out of the cap likely means that the reservoir is overfilled.  When the fluid gets hot, it expands and has to go somewhere.

EDIT:  Oops, MasterMech beat me to it.


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## freeburn (Sep 23, 2011)

OK, I thought that it would stop too, but then I think too much came out and then there wasn't enough (because I wasn't splitting on the level).  Then it started foaming and squirting out and the ram would jerk and there would be almost no power. I assume then it was too little and foaming out that way???


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## TreePointer (Sep 23, 2011)

freeburn said:
			
		

> OK, I thought that it would stop too, but then I think too much came out and then there wasn't enough (because I wasn't splitting on the level).  Then it started foaming and squirting out and the ram would jerk and there would be almost no power. I assume then it was too little and foaming out that way???



What kind of fluid are you using?  hydraulic, ATF, other?  What weight?


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## freeburn (Sep 23, 2011)

Before it was hydraulic, now I have ATF Dex III Farm Fleet brand. Just tried it on a LEVEL surface, worked just fine, no foaming/spurting/hesitating, so I think we're golden.


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## Gooserider (Sep 24, 2011)

Note that mixing different fluid types is a BAD idea, and can cause issues like those mentioned - it is best to keep the same fluid type once you have started a machine, or if you must change, be sure to bleed drain the entire system, including BOTH sides of the hydraulic system, and refill with the proper amount of fresh - this will minimize the amount of old fluid contaminating the new...

Also in an effort to keep the weight down, many (most) splitters use only a fraction of what theory says they should, so it is critical that they be kept filled exactly, per manufacturer specs (if you don't have them, I'd see if I could find an online version of the manual on the manufacturer's website) and operated on the level (especially side to side - most aren't as fussy about front to back) to prevent spillage and / or sucking air (which will cause the symptoms described, and eventually lead to pump damage)

Gooserider


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## freeburn (Sep 24, 2011)

Gooserider said:
			
		

> Note that mixing different fluid types is a BAD idea, and can cause issues like those mentioned - it is best to keep the same fluid type once you have started a machine, or if you must change, be sure to bleed drain the entire system, including BOTH sides of the hydraulic system, and refill with the proper amount of fresh - this will minimize the amount of old fluid contaminating the new...
> 
> Also in an effort to keep the weight down, many (most) splitters use only a fraction of what theory says they should, so it is critical that they be kept filled exactly, per manufacturer specs (if you don't have them, I'd see if I could find an online version of the manual on the manufacturer's website) and operated on the level (especially side to side - most aren't as fussy about front to back) to prevent spillage and / or sucking air (which will cause the symptoms described, and eventually lead to pump damage)
> 
> Gooserider



I did NOT mix fluids that's one thing I knew. Instead, I dumped everything I had in (as much as I could get out) and changed fluids to ATF which is what the manual said could be used. I also found out that I was using it on unlevel ground and the front side which is where the in/out is for the hydraulic was probably sucking air after blowing excess out. Both in/out are on the same (left to right) side of tank in between the wheels. Just tried it yesterday on the level, works like a charm. Thanks for the tips though. I'm sure it will come in handy for someone else along the way too.


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## relayer (Sep 24, 2011)

After sending the last week looking at log splitters I think I decided on one.

My reason for choosing:

1. I will only be splitting 3 to 4 cords per year.  So in 20 years that's only 80 cords.  If it was more I would go with something bigger and better.
2. The size I'm splitting is only 15" long.  I know when I hand split it a lot easier to split 15" log over a log that is 20"  So should not need a real big splitter.
3. Speed -- at first this seen important to me.  But after reading the posts and thinking more about it I came to the look at a little different.  I'm only splitting 3 to 4 cords a year.  If I was splitting more than a faster splitter would be better.  
4. I have access to a lot of wood.  So if there is a piece or two that are really bad I can leave them or give them to a friend that has a big outdoor burner.
5. If someone has some good wood (oak, hickory etc.) that's a little wider than I split I don't want one to small that I can not split it.  Plus if possible I like to split were I cut.  So I ruled out the electric ones.

I going to get the Huskee that is on sale at TSC

Thanks to all that posted it helped me make, what I think is a good choice *for me*.


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## bpirger (Sep 24, 2011)

My only one comment for when this thread may be reviewed again....It has been mentioned, but perhaps a reiteration is a good idea.  I have the TroyBuilt model and have not had any real problems....though I did wear through the lower pressure line that goes to the filter, just below the log cradle!   These cradles get beat up, at least mine do.  I can consider this my fault though.

But here's the point.  In other threads, you can read about how these "hanging" cylinder units have burst at the point where the cylinder is supported on the unit.  In other words, the back end of the cylinder is not supported on the ibeam.  Some have had this rupture, getting the hot oil bath.  I've never had a problem, and others here with the same splitter have had no problems.  BUT, I would have to consider this personally a design less than ideal, and given these things cost the same more or less on this end of quality, I'd suggest opting for the full beam model.  I know when I split now, or more to the point when my wife is running, I will make sure we try and keep and eye out for this....whatever that actually means.  When it goes...it goes.  Maybe one can see stress before.  I'm actually surprised I didn't notice this when I bought it, else I'd have chosen differently.  Blowing a hydraulic line is one thing...having the cylinder rupture is another.  

So just a thought....


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## charly (Sep 24, 2011)

bpirger said:
			
		

> My only one comment for when this thread may be reviewed again....It has been mentioned, but perhaps a reiteration is a good idea.  I have the TroyBuilt model and have not had any real problems....though I did wear through the lower pressure line that goes to the filter, just below the log cradle!   These cradles get beat up, at least mine do.  I can consider this my fault though.
> 
> But here's the point.  In other threads, you can read about how these "hanging" cylinder units have burst at the point where the cylinder is supported on the unit.  In other words, the back end of the cylinder is not supported on the ibeam.  Some have had this rupture, getting the hot oil bath.  I've never had a problem, and others here with the same splitter have had no problems.  BUT, I would have to consider this personally a design less than ideal, and given these things cost the same more or less on this end of quality, I'd suggest opting for the full beam model.  I know when I split now, or more to the point when my wife is running, I will make sure we try and keep and eye out for this....whatever that actually means.  When it goes...it goes.  Maybe one can see stress before.  I'm actually surprised I didn't notice this when I bought it, else I'd have chosen differently.  Blowing a hydraulic line is one thing...having the cylinder rupture is another.
> 
> So just a thought....


Not knocking any other splitters, but that's what steered me again to the SuperSplit, no hydraulics to even deal with, plus a USA product.


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## jdinspector (Sep 24, 2011)

freeburn said:
			
		

> Anyone have any information or can you direct me to information on the Ramsplitter?



Try this... www.ramsplitter.com


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## ScotO (Sep 24, 2011)

me and my buddy cut firewood all year long (we both heat exclusively with wood), we cut and split around 35 to 40 cords of wood per year, and I have done just fine using a 22 ton Swisher vertical/horizontal splitter, never gave me any problems and I cut alot of locust, oak and even the occasional elm......by the sounds of it you would be best off with a model similar to mine, the vertical option is great because we get into a lot of really big stuff (40 to 50 inch diameter sometimes) and the vertical option is the only way to split that stuff, esp. if you are working by yourself...these big splitters with big motors aren't needed for most people, like I said my 22 ton does just fine, and I picked it up on Craigslist for 800 bucks, it was only used three times prior to me buying it...look on craigslist often, there are usually deals on splitters all the time.....just make sure you don't buy a piece of junk....


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## Stevebass4 (Sep 24, 2011)

i started with one of those electric 3 ton splitters and i pushed about three cord though it... still have it and sometimes use it to make kindling  now 

found a new log guy  and he brings BIG logs so i needed something bigger and found a deal at lowes in 2009 on the 33 ton troy built with a honda engine - added the ebay table (well worth the $$) 

http://compare.ebay.com/like/270820991628?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar


i love the thing except it's heavy as hell when i need to move it around  

as for speed - my splits are between 11 inches and 13 inches (small stove) so i hardly ever let ram return when i am using it 

no issues with the troy built


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## Gooserider (Sep 25, 2011)

As mentioned, some have had problems with the trunion cylinder mount machines, others haven't.  It may be related to to the design of particular models, or the stresses that are put on it, I don't know...  It is definitely the case that in any kind of failure, whether it is cylinder rupture, or simply seals wearing out and leaking, that it will be harder and more expensive to find a replacement cylinder than it will be with a clevis mount cylinder, which is almost a universal design, and very easy to get replacement cylinders for (often cheaper than trying to get a leaker rebuilt)  To me this is a good reason to avoid the trunion mount machines, in favor of the full length beam, clevis mount cylinder units.

IMHO, both from what I've seen in a lot of threads on these forums, and my own personal experiences with my 30-ton unit, and a friend's 20-ton and Super-split units, the optimal unit for most of us that don't do professional scale production, but do need to crank out 4-10 cords / year (more or less) of typical woods, is the 18-22-ton labeled units, with a 4" cylinder, 11gpm pump and 6-8hp motor....  This can and will do a fine job of handling 99.9% of the wood you throw at it, with reasonable speed and safety, at a reasonable cost.

There are some small engine/pump combos with big high-ton cylinders (such as some of the 28 ton Troy-builts) that sacrifice cycle time for power that isn't really needed, or even appropriately powered high ton units that are just "over-kill" for the task - such as the one I bought....  If I hadn't gotten hurt and was still splitting and burning, I might have been very tempted to swap my 5" cylinder for a 4" unit, which would have given me a much faster cycle, at the cost of losing splitting power that I really never used...

Gooserider


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## MasterMech (Sep 25, 2011)

Hey Goose,

I&O makes a 20 ton "Fast Cycle" unit (8 second cycle!) which is the same as my 26 ton but has a 4" cylinder with the same 16GPM pump.  Just FYI.  Sorry to hear you are involuntarily "retired" from burning.


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## mhrischuk (Sep 25, 2011)

I paid around $1100 for my 27 Ton Troybuilt (MTD). I looked at the Iron and Oak. They really look like strong well built machines but they are over $1000 more for a similar unit. I don't see the payback for the extra money right now since this my splitter does the job quite well. Now that I'm going full time my opinion could change and my next splitter will be one of those.

I do know a replacement cylinder for one of these trunnion machines is around $500.


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## sappy (Sep 25, 2011)

I have an "American" logsplitter that I have been using for almost 17yrs. It is a horizontal only about a foot from the ground however. I cut and split over 20 cords between the house and my sugaring business each year. Some of these pieces at times have almost been as wide as a door and I put them on it cut to 32 inches. It has no problem splitting them. I too am getting a little older-50. It aint 70 but it aint 25 like when I started doing this stuff either. I bought mine at the local John Deere dealership here.


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## tlingit (Sep 25, 2011)

Just want to throw a good word in for our Ryobi electric splitter.  We have a big vertical gas one, and I bought the ryobi so teenagers could do smaller pieces.  It handles all but the biggest logs, I can put it on a table, which is so much easier on my knees.  The cost was about $300 and it does a great job.  We loaned it to my 82 year old dad and with him running the Ryobi and the kids hauling and stacking, they got a cord of wood done in a pleasant afternoon.  It worked for him because he could sit down on the tail gate and run it.  So, don't let cost hold you back, the big ones are great but kind of dear for our budget.  This electric one is pretty great too.


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## MrWhoopee (Sep 27, 2011)

I've been using a Ryobi electric (Homelite branded, Home Depot $300) for the last three years. I share it with a friend and we each burn 5 cords per year. I cut my wood 17 in. This thing is amazing! With the exception of forgetting to open the bleeder or add hydraulic oil, it has been completely trouble free. I have split black oak as large as 28 in. dia, routinely split douglas fir, juniper and lodgepole pine up to 24 in. dia. For your needs, it would be more than adequate unless you're dealing with extremely tough, knotty, forked hardwood. To make it better, I can pick it up and put it in the back of my little Honda Civic wagon without help and I can hold a conversation while running it. No gasoline, no starting problems, no noise! I did add some very simple foot pedals so I can operate it standing up and control the split pieces. I can't recommend it highly enough, when (if) it dies, I'll buy another. 8v))
The reviews on Homedepot.com were almost unanimously positive (88 of 89 recommended) with 5 of 5 stars.
http://reviews.homedepot.com/1999/100348561/4-ton-electric-log-splitter-reviews/reviews.htm


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## Bubbavh (Sep 27, 2011)

Id look long and hard at this one from Tractor Supply for $1699
http://media.tractorsupply.com/s7/v...rSupplyCompany/TSC_VID1&locale=en&method=prog


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## mikefrommaine (Sep 27, 2011)

freeburn said:
			
		

> mikefrommaine said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I have three gx engines, never noticed any surging.


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## Gooserider (Sep 27, 2011)

Bubbavh said:
			
		

> Id look long and hard at this one from Tractor Supply for $1699
> http://media.tractorsupply.com/s7/v...rSupplyCompany/TSC_VID1&locale=en&method=prog



Looks like a clone of a SuperSplit, with design changes to maximize the user interface annoyance....  Works fast when it works, but seems to be fussier on upkeep than a hydraulic, at least that was my experience with the SuperSplit that I used occasionally with a friend...  Good for production, but seems overkill for a home user.

Gooserider


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## Llamaman (Sep 27, 2011)

Stopped at Lowes on way home from work.......picked up Task Force 5 ton electric splitter for $170 which seemed like a great price - now I googled and there is a recall.......should I return of try it first to see how it works?

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
July 7, 2011
Release #11-273  Firm's Recall Hotline: (866) 456-8934
CPSC Recall Hotline: (800) 638-2772
CPSC Media Contact: (301) 504-7908  

Changzhou Globe Tool Group Recalls Electric Log Splitters Due to Laceration or Amputation Hazard; Firm to Provide Additional On-Product Warnings; Sold Exclusively at Lowe's Stores
WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firms named below, today announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed. It is illegal to resell or attempt to resell a recalled consumer product.

Name of Product: Task Force 5-ton electric log splitters

Units: About 20,000

Manufacturer: Changzhou Globe Tool Group Co. Ltd., of China

Importer: L G Sourcing, Inc. of North Wilkesboro, NC

Hazard: The electric log splitters have a hydraulic arm that, during use, slides under the handle used to move the machine. The moving hydraulic arm poses a laceration or amputation injury hazard to individuals who place their hands on that handle while the splitter is in operation.

Incident/Injuries: There have been two reports of injuries including a fingertip amputation of an 18-year-old man and one finger laceration injury of a 60-year-old man. Both individuals were injured after placing their hands on the handle while the splitter was in operation.

Description: The log splitters are silver and black, electric 5-ton models. The log splitter brand name, model and item number below is included in this recall.

Brand Name Mfg. Model No.  Item Number 
Task Force 26083 241483 

The item number and model number is printed on the power switch label at the rear of the log splitter. "Task Force" is printed on the side rail of the log splitters.

Sold Exclusively at: Lowe's stores nationwide from January 2008 through March 2011 for about $300.


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## DanCorcoran (Sep 28, 2011)

On a separate thread, users are explaining how to circumvent the safety devices that keep both hands out of harms way.  Who needs a CPSC if owners are bound and determined to ignore safety devices?


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## Llamaman (Sep 28, 2011)

not sure what your point is?


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## freeburn (Sep 28, 2011)

mikefrommaine said:
			
		

> freeburn said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 I have a GX on my tiller and it doesn't do it, but the GC on my splitter does it when not under load. Then when under load smooths out. Not sure if that's how it's suppose to run or not.


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## MasterMech (Sep 28, 2011)

freeburn said:
			
		

> mikefrommaine said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



They're not _supposed_ to run that way but so many of them do.  Thank newer EPA carburetors that run a 4-stroke as raggedly lean as possible.  Cleaning both the idle and main jets in the carb may help.  If it smooths out under load then the problem is most likely in the idle jet/circuit.  Won't do any damage but I can't stand to listen to it run that way.


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## certified106 (Sep 28, 2011)

freeburn said:
			
		

> I noticed that the 22 ton huskee is 999 at TSC as a regular price. I wonder if they saved a bit sending it overseas to be assembled??? Anyone have any information or can you direct me to information on the Ramsplitter? I picked up a used 16 ton ver/hor model with Honda 160GC (would have preferred GX, but it's Honda, and starts first pull every time) that was hardly used two years old. The only problem I'm having is that the hydraulic fluid wants to gush out of the cap? Maybe I need to be on more level ground!! Don't want to hijack this thread though. Maybe another one to consider, made in US. besides Iron and Oak.



If I am splitting on an angle where the cap is down hill I have had fluid gush out of the cap through the vent hole. I learned real quickly it needs to be fairly level lol


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## Jags (Sep 28, 2011)

Llamaman said:
			
		

> ....should I return of try it first to see how it works?
> 
> FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
> 
> ...



I think you answered your own question, no?


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## freeburn (Sep 28, 2011)

> They're not _supposed_ to run that way but so many of them do.  Thank newer EPA carburetors that run a 4-stroke as raggedly lean as possible.  Cleaning both the idle and main jets in the carb may help.  If it smooths out under load then the problem is most likely in the idle jet/circuit.  Won't do any damage but I can't stand to listen to it run that way.


I hear you, it just sounds terrible. Anyone have a link or file to the parts breakdown of that motor that includes a blowup of the carb? (Honda GC 160) This motor is so new, I just can't believe it runs like this. Thing is, if you back off the throttle a little or open the choke a little it smooths out too.


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## MrWhoopee (Sep 28, 2011)

DanCorcoran said:
			
		

> On a separate thread, users are explaining how to circumvent the safety devices that keep both hands out of harms way.  Who needs a CPSC if owners are bound and determined to ignore safety devices?



I am a believer in safety devices, however I believe that removing personal awareness and responsibility from the process just encourages people to pay less attention to their own safety. Every time they make something "idiot proof", we find a bigger idiot. When safety devices increase operator fatigue or reduce comfort or efficiency, they invite tampering. I had to defeat the safety lockout on one of my electric chainsaws because it was so badly positioned that it  became painful to operate. Interesting that they still haven't figured out how to put a guard on a chainsaw, quite possibly the most dangerous tool on the market.


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## Llamaman (Sep 28, 2011)

Pretty sure my little Task Force splitter is not the model that was recalled - HOWEVER - early reviews are not good - just spent half hour and it died - time to read the manual for possible easy fix but I suspect this is a major POS!

Anyone else have similar experience?


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## tlingit (Sep 29, 2011)

I'm sorry your new one isn't doing well.  I have been very happy with our $300 ryobi.  Even my hardheaded husband talks it up.


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## DanCorcoran (Sep 29, 2011)

"... - time to read the manual..."

Presumably you also read the manual before operating it.  Major causes of malfunction are failure to open the "breather" valve before splitting, failure to check fluid level before splitting, and using too small/long an extension cord.  Ideal is 25-foot 10 gauge cord.


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## MrWhoopee (Sep 29, 2011)

After examining pictures of the Task Force, it appears to be the same basic splitter as the Ryobi and others.

http://tinyurl.com/3r5bctg


The recall referred to a handle that was the hazardous area, but I don't see how that could be. One hand goes on the momentary contact power button located on the motor control box. The other hand actuates the hydraulic control lever at the end of the cylinder. My guess is that there were 2 people operating the splitter and someone grabbed the handle formed by the curved end of the tube which forms the log support. On the other models I have seen, the end handle is actually mounted on the piece of channel iron attached to the end of the ram and the 2 pull rods. That style handle moves with the ram so there is no pinch point.

As for the Task Force that failed after 1-1/2 hours, the bleeder screw was probably not opened fully

Craig


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## DanCorcoran (Sep 29, 2011)

The concern I've had with the Pow'R'kraft and others with a similar design is not on the power stroke, because both hands must be on the controls.  On the return stroke, however, both hands are free and there is a potential to inadvertantly place your hand in a pinch point.  I don't know if this is the CPSC issue with the recall.


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## Llamaman (Sep 29, 2011)

bleeder screw or not - make it goes for a trade in!


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