# Is 272xp enough saw for milling



## Diabel (Nov 30, 2020)

I did use the search button but did not find what i needed.

I have more than enough firewood css for several seasons. Lots of my hemlocks are approaching their end of life days. I just gave away bunch of very straight hemlocks to my neighbor for milling in good faith. I have several more that should come down soon in order to salvage the wood. I plan to build wood shed next summer. I priced out the lumber to run me around 3k. And most importantly, i need a new (in the woods) hobby. Hence the question in the tittle. Plus, i do not believe my ms360 can do the job. I would not want to kill that saw. Also, i painfully must admit that my saw addiction/disease is in full progress.....

I can pick up a rebuilt 272xp with 30” bar for 350cad. I will offer 300. 
There is also a 372xp with 20” bar for 350cad but the guy has no history on the saw other than “it runs good”

Any comments always appreciated.


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## Nealm66 (Nov 30, 2020)

I’d say no, I’ve used my 372 once I have a cant or even doubled up 6”cants and it zips right along but the outside rips are a bear. Stay with an outside clutch model if possible, my 385 gets hot and won’t even spin the chain. I got rid of my 395 cus every time I shut it of I couldn’t get it started, think the coil was getting hot. I use my 880 for the outside and slabbing. If I was trying to do it on a budget, I might look around for an old 56 magnum. My mill is down at my neighbors and he used his 272 and it will do the job but it’s not good for anything over I’d say 12” range


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## Nealm66 (Nov 30, 2020)

I’ll see if I can find some more pics


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## Diabel (Nov 30, 2020)

Hm. These trees are 20-30 inches across. Nice pics btw. Thanks


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## Nealm66 (Nov 30, 2020)

Call madsens in chehalis Washington and ask for mike or bob and see if they have anything on the used rack. If going to try a 56, see if they can get parts if needed. An 075 might not be bad either. Mike or bob will steer you right either way . They’re guy that does they’re mods is pretty knowledgeable as well but he doesn’t work at the shop


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## Nealm66 (Nov 30, 2020)

The 880 size saws are tough to re start while on the mill


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## Diabel (Nov 30, 2020)

It appears that any type of milling is tough on chainsaws no matter what size. Is it due to the continuous and prolonged high rev?


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## Nealm66 (Nov 30, 2020)

it’s more of a lugging along, new saws aren’t really made for it. Like a diesel vs gas. We ran the old 56’s and 075’s and they were geared for it. Some of the undercuts would almost burn a tank. Low power but geared different. The 395 did really well but maybe I just had a bad coil. Not sure your condition but they can be a bit tough to start if you don’t know the technique


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## Nealm66 (Nov 30, 2020)

Mike or bob have forgot more than I will ever want to know about saws. They’re super busy but always spot on info. Mike is preferred, he will remember you calling 10 years from now. Crazy smart guy and been in the business longer than I have


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## Nealm66 (Nov 30, 2020)

You can tell them Neal directed you, bob will probably poke some fun about it


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## Nealm66 (Nov 30, 2020)

Hope not discouraging, it’s very rewarding for the effort. My neighbors have re boarded 3 big hay trailers and just got the boards cut for a 25’ gooseneck. You can’t buy lumber like they made and the portable mills don’t like to stretch out for long . Once I showed them a few tricks they have produced some beautiful lumber.


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## Nealm66 (Nov 30, 2020)

Whoops! Not sure how that happened


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## Diabel (Nov 30, 2020)

Nice!
So, the 272 is too small. I am in no rush, will keep looking. I think the 056mag will be a hard find. Did a quick search and nothing came up. As for the 880s people are asking crazy coin.....


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## SpaceBus (Nov 30, 2020)

I've used my Husky 460 on smaller spruce and fir logs, but it was very slow. My 395xp is the primary mill saw, but I killed the coil a few months back and had to use the 460 while I waited for a new coil. Now I have it tuned a bit more rich and run 32-ish:1 premix. If I'm going to be sawing a lot of stuff I'll bring out my cordless compressor and blow out the clutch cover after every pass. I think this will help my coil and everything else last longer.


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## Nealm66 (Nov 30, 2020)

I’ll keep my eye open here on Craigslist. Madsens might have one of those old boat anchors around and they would ship. There’s a ton of saw shops you could check in my area and just pay the shipping. If madsens don’t have something, try castle rock stihl or harbor saw. There’s still a bunch of those old things around here. Just not sure about parts. There might be an 84 or 86 stihl would be good too. I can’t tell the difference between the power of the three even though on paper there’s supposed to be


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## Nealm66 (Nov 30, 2020)

Ha ha, there’s an 075 on Craigslist here but the dingle berry wants 1500 for it. It’s about a $200 item in my opinion if everything is tip top


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## Diabel (Nov 30, 2020)

Nealm66 said:


> Ha ha, there’s an 075 on Craigslist here but the dingle berry wants 1500 for it. It’s about a $200 item in my opinion if everything is tip top


Yes, stupid prices for bid saws


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## EbS-P (Dec 1, 2020)

I have had good luck with my holtzforma/farmer tec G660 so far.  25 tanks through it I’m guessing.  If  it’s a tool you need to get a project done then it’s just gonna sit and not be used much it might be worth it. I’m milling 28-32” poplar. Gonna see if can pull a 52” next week or so as I want    Live edge slabs on the butt log. I guessing it’s 38”.  
To be honest if you weren’t cutting more than  20” and with a ripping chain  and were careful on you filing and kept the rakers just a tad higher than normal and didn’t push it too hard you could get by. But it’s just a guess.


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Dec 1, 2020)

You might find some good info here.. https://www.arboristsite.com/community/forums/milling-saw-mills.62/


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## Nealm66 (Dec 1, 2020)

I have wondered about those saws, can you get parts for them?


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## brenndatomu (Dec 1, 2020)

Nealm66 said:


> I have wondered about those saws, can you get parts for them?


Yes, here...and plenty of other places too.


			Small Engine Parts: Chainsaw Parts & Small Engine Repair Parts
		

I built one of those from a kit (box o parts) a few years back...no major issues with it so far.


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## EbS-P (Dec 1, 2020)

Nealm66 said:


> I have wondered about those saws, can you get parts for them?


If you are talking about the G660 everything is interchangeable with OEM MS660.  My chain tensioner and a bar mounting lug stripped and aftermarket parts were available from amazon.  It made me a nice table and counter and if it blows up tomorrow it did what it needed to do and if it cuts up the rest of that tree I could come out money ahead.   If you can’t justify a pro 90 +cc saw but can justify 4-500$ it get you in the game. And you have the possibility of becoming a chainsaw mechanic if something goes south.


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## brenndatomu (Dec 1, 2020)

EbS-P said:


> My chain tensioner


That's the only issue I had...tensioner was "stripped", but threads looked fine...I bought a Stihl replacement, only about 1% better...ended up having to shim the adjuster, now its fine...likely that's all the original tensioner would have needed since it looked fine.


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## Diabel (Dec 1, 2020)

EbS-P said:


> If you are talking about the G660 everything is interchangeable with OEM MS660.  My chain tensioner and a bar mounting lug stripped and aftermarket parts were available from amazon.  It made me a nice table and counter and if it blows up tomorrow it did what it needed to do and if it cuts up the rest of that tree I could come out money ahead.   If you can’t justify a pro 90 +cc saw but can justify 4-500$ it get you in the game. And you have the possibility of becoming a chainsaw mechanic if something goes south.


Very interesting. Regardless what i get, i need enough saw to mill me enough wood to build a 10x20 woodshed. After that the saw would be shelved for no idea how long. I have plenty of firewood saw power. If i can get the G660 for 440cad from fleebay that is not bad. Not sure if i can find a 054, 056 etc for that price. I just went through some of the reviews on the G660 1/2 good 1/2 bad (real bad). But that has to be taken with a grain of salt.....


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## Nealm66 (Dec 1, 2020)

I have no idea how the g66 is but I would think a 660 would do fine. We used them in the last old growth unit I cut on, can’t remember what year but it was up in the Tacoma watershed, and no issues. There was a lot of 6 and 7’ trees which is kind of a similar type workout on the motors. Not sure why the inside clutch has issues on my 385 but the shoes are very different so maybe the stihls don’t have the problem


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## Diabel (Dec 1, 2020)

Nealm66 said:


> I have no idea how the g66 is but I would think a 660 would do fine. We used them in the last old growth unit I cut on, can’t remember what year but it was up in the Tacoma watershed, and no issues. There was a lot of 6 and 7’ trees which is kind of a similar type workout on the motors. Not sure why the inside clutch has issues on my 385 but the shoes are very different so maybe the stihls don’t have the problem


G660 is a China ver of ms660. From what i just read it is not a professional saw. But with 92cc maybe it can mill me enough boards to build my shed. Or may be not....


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## Nealm66 (Dec 1, 2020)

I would give it a try, we used to pull the gasket ( 20 thousands) and just mash the head down on to the crank case with some blue silicone, make a v from the top of the cylinder out to the exhaust side and grind a chunk out of the intake skirt, drill some holes in the exhaust and run them till they quit which really wasn’t any shorter than stock ha ha, for 4-500$ WTH!! As long as the clutch doesn’t get hot and stop spinning, which we never had any issues with, who knows? I can tell you the 860 is a gutless gas pig but it doesn’t have any issues other than the crap factory air cleaner. A modified g660 might be the cat’s meow !


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## SpaceBus (Dec 2, 2020)

Check out the OPE forum, those guys will tell you more than you want to know about any saw.


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## Diabel (Dec 2, 2020)

SpaceBus said:


> Check out the OPE forum, those guys will tell you more than you want to know about any saw.


Wow
Lots of reading material there. Thank you


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Dec 2, 2020)

SpaceBus said:


> Check out the OPE forum, those guys will tell you more than you want to know about any saw.


Do you have a link?


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## Diabel (Dec 2, 2020)

Sean McGillicuddy said:


> Do you have a link?











						Outdoor Power Equipment Forum
					

Outdoor Power Equipment forum for small engine mechanics, tool and equipment stores, and repair shops.




					opeforum.com


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## Diabel (Dec 7, 2020)

Yesterday while Xmas shopping I stopped (annual event) at Princess Auto (not sure what the equivalent in US would be) it is a heaven for guys, gadgets and small equipment. As I walk in, look at the on sale section and a beautiful alaskan saw mill reduced to 85.00 cad (around 60usd) is staring at me. No brainer, i walk out with it. Now, I am committed/invested i suppose.

There is a ms660 for sale for 750cad. History unknown, compression very good apparently.

There is 390xp with 36” ripping chain for 1300 (crazy) apparently two yrs old.

And I am still thinking about the Chinese knockoff G660..........maybe I will be lucky and it will do the job for the shed.

Once I am done with the shed I could sell the Stihl or the Husky likely for the same price unless either gets busted while milling.

Any thoughts....


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## SpaceBus (Dec 7, 2020)

Is there an 880/080 clone? I would go with the big Chinese saw and then replace the crap Chinese parts with OEM Stihl when things break. With the savings buy a Stihl/Logosol 25" bar and run Stihl 63PMX chain for less sawdust waste. If your logs are too big for that setup then you probably aren't hobby sawing and will want a different mill setup.


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## Diabel (Dec 7, 2020)

I do not believe they have the 880 clone. The biggest log is 24” and I already have 25” stihl bar. I would have to get the ripping chain. I will have to look up 63PMX chain.


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## SpaceBus (Dec 7, 2020)

A 24" log will not work with a 25" bar on an Alaskan mill. I also don't think a 660 will last long milling 24" logs either. The 63pmx chain is a low profile ripping chain for larger chainsaws. Allegedly it works just fine in a standard 3/8 drive sprocket, but you would really want the Logosol hardnose bar if you are going to run that chain. This is what I plan on doing for my Logosol F2 mill, but I am running an Oregon Powercut 25" .050 bar with 83dl Carlton 30rp loops right now. The kerf isn't quite as narrow as I would like, but it works for now. I wouldn't look at any saw smaller than a 880 Stihl or 395xp Husky, mainly for the oiler you will need to pull a 30"+ bar and chain setup for those logs. The new 881 Stihl looks really nice and what I would have picked had the 395 not basically fell into my lap. For your fairly large 24" logs I would really be looking at hiring a bandsaw mill to come out and cut those up. How many are there? Depending on that cost I would be pricing out entry level sawmills and using the Alaskan mill you picked up to make the really big logs lighter.


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## Diabel (Dec 7, 2020)

Hm. I was getting all excited. Maybe the Home Depot way will be the most economical 3k in lumber.


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## brenndatomu (Dec 7, 2020)

SpaceBus said:


> Is there an 880/080 clone? I would go with the big Chinese saw and then replace the crap Chinese parts with OEM Stihl when things break. With the savings buy a Stihl/Logosol 25" bar and run Stihl 63PMX chain for less sawdust waste. If your logs are too big for that setup then you probably aren't hobby sawing and will want a different mill setup.


They had a 090 clone (I think it was) when I built my 660...this was Farmertec...and was a kit...no idea if they ever sold the whole saw assembled like they do with the blue ones (mine is Stihl orange...can't tell it from the real thing)


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## SpaceBus (Dec 7, 2020)

brenndatomu said:


> They had a 090 clone (I think it was) when I built my 660...this was Farmertec...and was a kit...no idea if they ever sold the whole saw assembled like they do with the blue ones (mine is Stihl orange...can't tell it from the real thing)


090 is the same as 880, yes? I Don't know much about big saws, especially ones I don't have


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## Diabel (Dec 7, 2020)

SpaceBus said:


> 090 is the same as 880, yes? I Don't know much about big saws, especially ones I don't have


That is great!


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## brenndatomu (Dec 7, 2020)

SpaceBus said:


> 090 is the same as 880, yes? I Don't know much about big saws, especially ones I don't have


I'm not sure.
Here is what they are calling a G070...105cc for about $20 more than a 660...no idea if these are "good" or not...I know these are older lower RPM engines...probably why the 660 seems to be so popular for milling/etc.
Amazon product


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## EbS-P (Dec 7, 2020)

That’s a tough call. used MS 660 vs new g660. Let’s give them equal odds of needing a repaired. Call them similar in cost to fix. You can sell the MS for twice what you could sell the G660.   All you are about is repair cost for the the MS 600.  You can always try the warranty process with farmer tech.

If you can plan your cuts will be making closer to 20” cuts. That’s 660 territory if you pay attention and don’t abuse the saw keep the chain sharp and the revs up. If you haven’t seen a crank handle wench pulling the mill though you should look that up if you are planning a one person operation.  Probably need to think about an auxiliary oiler. Simple as a squeeze bottle and a tube. 
Calling up the lumber yard is the fast easy solution not as much fun in my opinion. 
Now I look for reasons to fire up my G660.  Crews had be. Doing work at a house house for months and has left a 24” cherry tree limbed out in an ugly state for far to long. I probably drove by it 6 times a day some days.  Next time I saw them there I put on my PPE and kindly offered to cut it back down to the ground.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 7, 2020)

I wouldn’t get discouraged just yet, my neighbors cut quite a bit with a 272 husky. I showed them some tricks and it definitely requires patience and time with a smaller saw. Sharp chain is your friend.   How long will your lumber be? I use a couple 20’ metal studs, I think they’re 2x4. I don’t need middle support is 8’. I’m in the middle of too many projects and working full time to make any videos. I’d grab one of those g660 whatever things and a 32” bar and hope you got a 3’ mill ? You can shorten but you can’t stretch. We run chisel bit and I grind sharpen but they round file with a grind to true things up after a bit. In a 26 inch log if the chain is cutting good it should feed fine without any gadgets. It will suck at first since you’re learning but it can go pretty good once you get the basics figured out, YouTube videos help but don’t get wrapped up in them. Think it through. Play around with your chain sharpening, keep your gullets clean if your using a grinder. It can be done


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## EbS-P (Dec 7, 2020)

brenndatomu said:


> I'm not sure.
> Here is what they are calling a G070...105cc for about $20 more than a 660...no idea if these are "good" or not...I know these are older lower RPM engines...probably why the 660 seems to be so popular for milling/etc.
> Amazon product



They rate the power of 070 at less than the 660.   I’ve never seen a chain saw dyno  to look at the torque curves.  I’ll give up 13 cc’s for a larger availability of parts. You can always go full skip chain or even super skip milling chain (might be .404 but  sprocket is an easy change if you have a hard nose bar) to make up for some of the displacement. I got a 25’ of full skip Carleton semi chisel for like 65$ to my door. Will file it to 10 degrees by hand because files are cheap.

I think if are looking for a new road to travel down and have the time to take that path do it. I didn’t even own a chainsaw until hurricane Florence blew down that tree. A year and a half later I eat dinner off it every night. It’s been a worthwhile investment of my money and time.

Evan


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## Nealm66 (Dec 7, 2020)

Start with your smaller logs, get it on a couple 4x4’s. Screw a 1x4 on each side level, drop the mill below it , make sure your ladder or whatever is out past the end so you keep it flat out on the end. Don’t push down! Keep a couple wedges tapped in as you go. If you’re using a small saw, stop and let it idle for a minute about very foot or so. Fuel up after every cut, sucks to stop half way through


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## SpaceBus (Dec 8, 2020)

I think Alaskan mills make a lot of sense for making large slabs, beams, or breaking down a large log into something that fits on a stationary mill. For making 2x4's and other small boards it looks incredibly tedious.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 8, 2020)

SpaceBus said:


> I think Alaskan mills make a lot of sense for making large slabs, beams, or breaking down a large log into something that fits on a stationary mill. For making 2x4's and other small boards it looks incredibly tedious.


It is for sure, I do feel pretty vigorous when I have 3-4 cants lashed together and each pass makes multiple boards. But getting there is a lot of exercise for sure. I will say when I first went down to help my neighbors, it was a lot faster. They would be setting up for another pass while I’d be fueling or changing chain. We chopped a fair amount of boards in a decent time for a chainsaw mill. Also helped to take turns on the saw. Once I get done installing this chimney, putting up baseboard, tiling a shower, flooring a bathroom, I’ll try to take some pics of some tricks I use


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## EbS-P (Dec 8, 2020)

SpaceBus said:


> I think Alaskan mills make a lot of sense for making large slabs, beams, or breaking down a large log into something that fits on a stationary mill. For making 2x4's and other small boards it looks incredibly tedious.


I agree. I might be tempted to rip the slabs with a circular saw if working by myself.


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## Diabel (Dec 8, 2020)

Thank you for all the comments. The idea was to get 6 or maybe 9 6x6 posts, 4 2x12 headers and enough slabs to get my 2x6s and 2x4 that I would rip from slabs using table and circular saw. I will have some help but not every time while milling.


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## Diabel (Dec 8, 2020)

The g660 I can order tomorrow and have it in two three weeks, or I can order it in late March and have it ready for when I plan to start. In the meantime I should be patient and keep looking maybe a nice used saw will come around.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 8, 2020)

Once you have the 3 outside cuts off, for whatever reason, it speeds waaay up. Something in those outside cuts just takes the life out of a chain. But anyways,if making 2x4’s, drop down 4 inches until you run out of log. Stand all your cants up and screw a board holding them all together( this is why I mill on top of 4x4’s) and start 1 5/8 or 2” runs, they don’t make a table saw or circular saw that will keep up


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## SpaceBus (Dec 8, 2020)

Nealm66 said:


> Once you have the 3 outside cuts off, for whatever reason, it speeds waaay up. Something in those outside cuts just takes the life out of a chain. But anyways,if making 2x4’s, drop down 4 inches until you run out of log. Stand all your cants up and screw a board holding them all together( this is why I mill on top of 4x4’s) and start 1 5/8 or 2” runs, they don’t make a table saw or circular saw that will keep up


Cutting through bark for the entire cut is hard on the saw and chain.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 8, 2020)

I will also say a ladder never really worked for me. Just go down and get som angle iron or something similar. More good is better but weight and transport becomes an issue- yes, someone will hear you have a mill, and yes it’s impossible to get through a slice without someone asking questions


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Dec 8, 2020)

What if you debarked it ?


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## Diabel (Dec 8, 2020)

Sean McGillicuddy said:


> What if you debarked it ?


Yes, i will try to debark and see how it goes. Hemlock has tough bark. My test tree will be a 15” cedar that I will drop and try to mill it right there so there should not be much sand in the bark.


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## SpaceBus (Dec 8, 2020)

I try to clean my logs, but I don't have a pressure washer. Someday I'd like to get one that can take the bark off.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 8, 2020)

Sean McGillicuddy said:


> What if you debarked it ?


It doesn’t help, unless it’s dirty. It will still dull no matter what. But after the three outside cuts are made, even a smaller saw chugs right along


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## Nealm66 (Dec 8, 2020)

Another thing, if you do get some angle iron or equal, use it on every cut and have it extend past the cut. Don’t buy any of that fancy crap like chains or bla bla, if you’re going to make any investment, get a grinder so you can fine tune the way you want it to cut without guesswork. I wouldn’t try a chisel bit grinder as that’s a whole pita to figure out, just get a decent round grinder . Although I would try by hand to start just to see, my neighbors do really good licking a chain with a file. I suck at it so ...


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## SpaceBus (Dec 8, 2020)

Nealm66 said:


> Another thing, if you do get some angle iron or equal, use it on every cut and have it extend past the cut. Don’t buy any of that fancy crap like chains or bla bla, if you’re going to make any investment, get a grinder so you can fine tune the way you want it to cut without guesswork. I wouldn’t try a chisel bit grinder as that’s a whole pita to figure out, just get a decent round grinder . Although I would try by hand to start just to see, my neighbors do really good licking a chain with a file. I suck at it so ...


My guided grinder with good lube makes a better cutting edge than using a guided hand filing jig. The hand filed chain was "grabby" on the mill and cut like a factory chain. Could have been because I was making 2x8's into 1x2's and didn't have a ton of resistance.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 8, 2020)

SpaceBus said:


> My guided grinder with good lube makes a better cutting edge than using a guided hand filing jig. The hand filed chain was "grabby" on the mill and cut like a factory chain. Could have been because I was making 2x8's into 1x2's and didn't have a ton of resistance.


? What grinder is that? I didn’t know there was a lube for grinding


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## Nealm66 (Dec 8, 2020)

I chop the cemented mud off with an ax ( be careful!) then I give a quick scrub with a wire brush. Then I grind my way through the 3 outside cuts. Don’t get caught up in waste on the outside slabs. You can always flip and mill but I just focus on the task and firewood the outside slabs. I will hand rip excessive sweep off as well


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## salecker (Dec 8, 2020)

SpaceBus said:


> 090 is the same as 880, yes? I Don't know much about big saws, especially ones I don't have


No they are not the same.070 an 090 are the same family
088/880 is the next gen of the 084


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## SpaceBus (Dec 8, 2020)

Nealm66 said:


> ? What grinder is that? I didn’t know there was a lube for grinding


I use the granberg precision grinder with the bar mounted jig. I also use their black grinding lube stick. If my truck is handy I use a hitch mounted vise to hold the saw while I sharpen the cutters.


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Dec 8, 2020)

Oooo I dont know the 2in1 is a great tool ... Just saying ..


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## Nealm66 (Dec 8, 2020)

I just thought of something else, I run 404 chain on anything I can. I don’t have the issue of the chain wanting to run on me if the bar gets a little sloppy near as quick as it does with that crap 3/8’s. Ya, it’s slower , takes a wider kerf bla bla bla, I hated that crap when the 63 gauge 3/8’s came out and tried it multiple times, no thanks if I can help it.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 8, 2020)

I don’t know anything about round chain grinders , I guess I would call madsens and ask but probably anybody on this forum could round file better than me


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## SpaceBus (Dec 8, 2020)

All of the old timer chainsaw mill folks, Alaskan or Logosol, mostly suggested and used semi chisel round ground chain. I'm not 100% sure but it seems to stay sharp longer and handle abuse very well. If you mill with square chisel chain then you are the only person that I've run across that does so. I see 3/8 more often than 404 as well, but as you said, that's more for the smaller kerf than anything else.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 8, 2020)

I agree, I’m definitely odd man out even in the industry. I’m not ever going to win the popularity contest on the internet either lol. My advice is just my best that I’ve learned from everything the hard way. Don’t mean it’s gospel ha ha! If someone wants to fight that 3/8 and push on that round file chain so be it !


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## SpaceBus (Dec 8, 2020)

Nealm66 said:


> I agree, I’m definitely odd man out even in the industry. I’m not ever going to win the popularity contest on the internet either lol. My advice is just my best that I’ve learned from everything the hard way. Don’t mean it’s gospel ha ha! If someone wants to fight that 3/8 and push on that round file chain so be it !


I've wanted to try using square chisel for milling, but the Kerf must be massive, especially on 404 chain. Do you still set the top plate angle to 5-15 degrees? I want to get a few nice three angle files for my Granberg file n' jig, but I would have to convert my only 28" loop.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 8, 2020)

SpaceBus said:


> I've wanted to try using square chisel for milling, but the Kerf must be massive, especially on 404 chain. Do you still set the top plate angle to 5-15 degrees? I want to get a few nice three angle files for my Granberg file n' jig, but I would have to convert my only 28" loop.


Man, I’m not sure what the angle is for sure, for myself I wouldn’t recommend taking up chisel grind or file just because it was such a pita for me to get dialed in. I had the unfortunate ability to trial and error every day for 20 years. Not to say somebody with better abilities couldn’t pick it right up. I started with a copy of a factory grind and played with it till it was a money maker. I fiddled with it when I started milling just enough to find a middle line. I will say my neighbor does a pretty good job with a round file but he pre commercial thinned for 15 years and cuts 2 cord every weekend to sell so he has a lot of practice. I have him round file my little tree topper and I’ll touch up his chains to true them up a bit. I guess if you wanted to give it a go, I’d start by copying a factory. I’ve only worked with one old guy  that could chisel file worth a dang. If memory serves, it’s hard to get a good angle because of the side strap but it was in the 80’s when I worked with him so take that with a grain of salt. I use an old simington grinder now, I’ve wore out a couple different ones throu the years and no complaints with the simington


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## SpaceBus (Dec 8, 2020)

Nealm66 said:


> Man, I’m not sure what the angle is for sure, for myself I wouldn’t recommend taking up chisel grind or file just because it was such a pita for me to get dialed in. I had the unfortunate ability to trial and error every day for 20 years. Not to say somebody with better abilities couldn’t pick it right up. I started with a copy of a factory grind and played with it till it was a money maker. I fiddled with it when I started milling just enough to find a middle line. I will say my neighbor does a pretty good job with a round file but he pre commercial thinned for 15 years and cuts 2 cord every weekend to sell so he has a lot of practice. I have him round file my little tree topper and I’ll touch up his chains to true them up a bit. I guess if you wanted to give it a go, I’d start by copying a factory. I’ve only worked with one old guy  that could chisel file worth a dang. If memory serves, it’s hard to get a good angle because of the side strap but it was in the 80’s when I worked with him so take that with a grain of salt. I use an old simington grinder now, I’ve wore out a couple different ones throu the years and no complaints with the simington


Have you milled with semi chisel chain? I myself would never attempt to free hand file square grind, but I have a guided jig that can accept a three angle file.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 8, 2020)

I haven’t, no. Everything I have is full skip. It’s worth a try with the triangle. I’ve tried both and even trying to follow my grinder angle it’s not great, awful actually ha ha. There’s a guy on here that races saws and he hand files. Deetes? He might have some tips and some websites. The problem I found through the years with all the information you get from here or there was that it’s not always about how fast a chain can make a bucking cut. We had to bore and get decent life out of a chain. And that 3/8’s might be a little quicker but if you’re not matching your undercuts cus that crap is so finicky- you loose money. I run it on my little saws with no problem on little short bars but 28 and up = nope. I have tried semi skip but I didn’t see no gain, just a little smoother and not worth the extra sharpening


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## SpaceBus (Dec 8, 2020)

Nealm66 said:


> I haven’t, no. Everything I have is full skip. It’s worth a try with the triangle. I’ve tried both and even trying to follow my grinder angle it’s not great, awful actually ha ha. There’s a guy on here that races saws and he hand files. Deetes? He might have some tips and some websites. The problem I found through the years with all the information you get from here or there was that it’s not always about how fast a chain can make a bucking cut. We had to bore and get decent life out of a chain. And that 3/8’s might be a little quicker but if you’re not matching your undercuts cus that crap is so finicky- you loose money. I run it on my little saws with no problem on little short bars but 28 and up = nope. I have tried semi skip but I didn’t see no gain, just a little smoother and not worth the extra sharpening



I don't need anything over 20"to deal with the trees around here, I'm just curious how full chisel square grind does when on a mill.

http://treefalling.com/ 
the above link has all the details on how to get a square grind with a guided jig ( I have the same one) using a three angle file. No guesswork needed. To be honest I really only use my 20" equipped 460 to fell trees and I deal with everything else using a MS150 top handle saw. I think the largest spruce on my property is maybe 30" diameter and we probably wouldn't even cut it down. Our land was logged back in the 50's or 60's.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 8, 2020)

I feel it does really good, I wouldn’t say running a round chain for the outside cuts wouldn’t be a horrible idea but I usually get the 3 outside cuts off before it’s shot with the full skip. Although the last slice is a push. That’s where it’s nice to have a bigger saw. Once the outside 3 are done, I put a fresh chain on and it zings along with little effort on a 20” cut for example


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## Nealm66 (Dec 8, 2020)

A good example is my neighbors. I fell a roughly 30” Doug fir for them and lent them my 880 with a couple sharp chains. I’m pretty sure they will use that boat anchor to get the outside off and then maybe slice some cants but then I know they will probably use they’re smaller saw to make the rest of the cuts. I would


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## SpaceBus (Dec 8, 2020)

I just use my 395xp for everything. Sometimes I wish I had waited and snagged a new 881, but I got the new 395xp with a 28" round chisel setup for less than $1,000.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 8, 2020)

I loved my 395, it was my first try at husqavarna. Was actually cutting for mike papac on axman at the time ( before he went to Alaska) The guy I was subbing for traded saws with me for the day and I really liked it and been a fan of huskies every since. Not sure about these new ones though just because of no 63 gauge short bars for tree work ha ha


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## SpaceBus (Dec 8, 2020)

I run .050 gauge and the saw came with .058 from the dealer brand new. I really like the .050 on the mill.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 9, 2020)

Well, if you notice your chain running and can’t figure it out besides buying a new bar, try 404 full skip. I’ve been running stihl but going to try Oregon my next roll.


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## SpaceBus (Dec 9, 2020)

Nealm66 said:


> Well, if you notice your chain running and can’t figure it out besides buying a new bar, try 404 full skip. I’ve been running stihl but going to try Oregon my next roll.


I don't run bars long enough to justify full skip. Just not enough big trees like that where we live.


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## TradEddie (Dec 9, 2020)

Another option that might make economical sense is to find and pay someone local with a portable sawmill.

TE


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## Diabel (Dec 9, 2020)

Sure, even better to have the lumber delivered from local mill. No fun!


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## Nealm66 (Dec 9, 2020)

Diabel said:


> Sure, even better to have the lumber delivered from local mill. No fun!


That’s the spirit! There’s a pretty good market for live edge when you get done making boards. I’ve seen where a guy was milling for half of the log is worthy. That’s where the portability/versatility shine. Way more valuable than just boards. Not sure what’s available in your area but mantles and accent walls don’t take much. It’s a little tougher to sell green but I’ve seen it happen. Room and time to dry is a huge hurdle. There’s a few places around here that have big supply of dry live edge but it’s off the chart expensive. I’ve learned a bit and made plenty of mistakes at drying to say it’s definitely very important to get that figured out before you put all that effort into milling. A couple things, stick, strap and paint the ends. Also, pitch set if planning inside use.


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## SpaceBus (Dec 10, 2020)

Honestly if you are going to use the lumber for finish purposes the best thing to do is air or kiln dry the rough lumber and then plane to final dimensions. I plan on milling some laths for our house to do plaster, but I can just dry the pieces in our spare bedroom. Giant live edge slabs are much more difficult. Most folks I see that mill or sell lumber for profit build essentially carports that they air dry the lumber under with stickers, painted ends, and the whole deal. If you have the bucks there are kilns that make it much faster and more controlled, but that is a huge expense. Even still that rough lumber has to have some kind of finishing. A good mill doesn't mean anything if the drying process is flawed and the boards turn into bananas. My logosol makes a flatter and straighter board than a band mill, but If I unknowingly cut boards from a log with a ton of tension there is not much I can do. One of the earlier logs I cut was fairly small, really just two 2x4's worth of wood in it. I should have turned it into a 4x4, but I got greedy. Once I finished the final rip cut the board above the kerf jumped into the air and fell on the ground. To me there are three big parts to good lumber: straight logs with no twist or tension, well dialed in mill, and a good drying process. Any one of those is off and worst case the lumber is worthless, best case you will have to take off a lot of material with the planer.


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## Diabel (Dec 10, 2020)

I was not planning on drying the wood. The plan was to build the shed as I mill. Wouldn’t fastening everything together prevent twisting? To some extent. This will be a woodshed in the woods not really visible other than one part of my driveway.


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## SpaceBus (Dec 10, 2020)

Diabel said:


> I was not planning on drying the wood. The plan was to build the shed as I mill. Wouldn’t fastening everything together prevent twisting? To some extent. This will be a woodshed in the woods not really visible other than one part of my driveway.


I built my chicken coop with green lumber as I milled it, but by the end of our dry summer the boards were starting to become fairly dry and the 1" boards were more prone to cracking and splitting when nailing. Many of my boards wanted to curl and bend after fastening with 3.5" framing nails, but it's pretty stable now that it is finished. I think the real issue with green lumber, at least in my experience with the chicken coop, is that my exterior 1" thick board and batten siding and roof got a bit draftier and leakier after a few weeks. Next summer we plan on staining and sealing it all up. If we had dried lumber to start we could have stained all the wood and then assembled the structure. Some of my boards are a bit inconsistent on thickness and straightness since I was learning as I went. My mill is much better dialed in now so my lumber is more consistent, but a planer would have solved a lot of my struggles.


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## Diabel (Dec 10, 2020)

Spaces are good for a woodshed...
I will see how it goes. If I can get the proper set up in terms of equipment, then mill the posts and few 2x10s and maybe the 2x6 for the roof I will be very happy. The lumber for the walls I might order from the local mill. The woodshed is my next summer project. The milling looks so gratifying and would be a project that leads to the shed project.


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## SpaceBus (Dec 10, 2020)

Diabel said:


> Spaces are good for a woodshed...
> I will see how it goes. If I can get the proper set up in terms of equipment, then mill the posts and few 2x10s and maybe the 2x6 for the roof I will be very happy. The lumber for the walls I might order from the local mill. The woodshed is my next summer project. The milling looks so gratifying and would be a project that leads to the shed project.


I really enjoy running my mill. It is loud, but in ear hearing protection with ear muffs over makes it very comfortable. With the doubled up ear pro It's like a meditation. My wife disagrees, but now that it's cold and we don't open the windows the noise isn't so bad. You will also get *very* good at sharpening your chain. I recommend the Granberg Grind N' Joint 12v grinding jig. I have one and my boards come out with a surface that cleans up to a finished appearance with 30 seconds of 200 grit. Eventually I'll have a good shed with a workbench and I'll get a stand alone grinder, but until then my Granberg setup is very precise for $90.


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## Diabel (Dec 10, 2020)

Is the grinder adjustable for ripping chains and regular ones?


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## Diabel (Dec 10, 2020)

Diabel said:


> Is the grinder adjustable for ripping chains and regular ones?


Just looked it up. Neat thanks


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## SpaceBus (Dec 10, 2020)

Diabel said:


> Just looked it up. Neat thanks


I use mine for everything, but I wouldn't necessarily call it faster than doing it with the manual version (it's a guided file holder). With the electric grinder and lube I get a smoother cut on rip cuts than using a round file. Which makes sense, the grinding stone is a diamond stone and the file is far more coarse. For cross cutting the file might produce a better/faster cut due to being a bit "grabby" compared to a highly polished cutter.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 10, 2020)

Another word of advice, don’t look at the wood when you push your first slab off. Just close your eyes, draw a 90 with a square on the small end, measure and draw another on the other end, rip it off, drop down and start making cants. Flip the cants all live edge up, screw a 1by to hold them tight, start making boards. If you happen to notice the really cool grain and highly stainable white wood hemlock typically has, it’s game over.


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## Diabel (Dec 10, 2020)

Nealm66 said:


> Another word of advice, don’t look at the wood when you push your first slab off. Just close your eyes, draw a 90 with a square If you happen to notice the really cool grain and highly stainable white wood hemlock typically has, it’s game over.





Nealm66 said:


> If you happen to notice the really cool grain and highly stainable white wood hemlock typically has, it’s game over.



Why would the game be over? Might be a silly question


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## Nealm66 (Dec 10, 2020)

Because the thought of stepping over dollars to pick up dimes might pop into your head. I really debated putting this out there but that first slab you cut off is going to expose some really nice looking wood with the potential of 3-4 times the value of regular lumber. I hope you can ignore this but it’s definitely hard not to admire a wide slab of wood. I used hemlock to make a top for a kitchen island on a house I flipped. I stained it with black walnut. I’ll try to find a pic. Really thought about not mentioning this but I really feel I should mention it


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## Diabel (Dec 10, 2020)

I appreciate all your comments. I have only cut hemlock (lots of it) for fire wood, never thought it would have a nice grain.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 10, 2020)

Here’s another curve ball. If let’s say you go”holly cow!” And throw a couple pics on Craigslist and some contractor buys everything and wants more and asks if you can make more with those ugly saw marks, it can be replicated by cheating the motor at an angle and working back and forth. Ha ha, it’s a rabbit hole. It’s so much easier to make boards


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## EbS-P (Dec 13, 2020)

I saw a great crotch. I want it on my wall to put all the family pictures on. Get it family tree 350$ later I have a set up to cut 42” widths maybe not enough saw now.  So I agree that the snowballing possibly is really.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 13, 2020)

Are you thinking about one of those green 660’s? A cut like that would be a good test for one


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## Nealm66 (Dec 13, 2020)

So my neighbor/friends just brought  the 880 back and said it’s a 181 husky that he uses with a 28” bar. Not a 272. I have a horrible time with the husky models. Anyways, he says it works really good


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## Diabel (Dec 20, 2020)

I have been reading tons in terms of what saw I need, was leaning to g660. Now I don’t now. G660 might not do it. 880 or what is most liked is the 395xp. Mucho dinero!


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## SpaceBus (Dec 20, 2020)

Diabel said:


> I have been reading tons in terms of what saw I need, was leaning to g660. Now I don’t now. G660 might not do it. 880 or what is most liked is the 395xp. Mucho dinero!


The new 881 has more power but some folks still prefer the 395xp for the better oiler.


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## Diabel (Dec 20, 2020)

SpaceBus said:


> The new 881 has more power but some folks still prefer the 395xp for the better oiler.


Yes, and something about the clutch and venting.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 20, 2020)

I wouldn’t hesitate to try that g660. If it is anything comparable to an 066 stihl, the 395 won’t have anything over it. Don’t get wrapped up in all the internet static. Focus more on how to get your chains on another level. If you find those round chains and fancy rip chains aren’t everything the internet hyped them to be, grab a 404 full skip chisel bit and see what I say is true


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## Diabel (Dec 20, 2020)

Nealm66 said:


> I wouldn’t hesitate to try that g660. If it is anything comparable to an 066 stihl, the 395 won’t have anything over it. Don’t get wrapped up in all the internet static. Focus more on how to get your chains on another level. If you find those round chains and fancy rip chains aren’t everything the internet hyped them to be, grab a 404 full skip chisel bit and see what I say is true


Thank you sooooo much! I am so confused, I so appreciate all the input. I have the g660 in my amazon cart. But after reading all the info on OPE. The 395 seemed like the only reliable option.  There are zero available 395s in north america below 1000


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## Nealm66 (Dec 20, 2020)

I really liked my 395 but it really didn’t like to start after a run. I believed the coil was in a spot where it didn’t like to be for that length of time/heat. The one I used had probably fell about 5million board feet of trees without issue and when it was off the mill it had no issues starting. I ran a 42” bar on it when I was milling. I’ve wore out probably 15-20 066’s and they don’t really have any weaknesses other than balance/vibration when timber cutting.  I would be conscious of the internal clutch if anything but just would mean I would let it idle a bit here and there on the cut. I’ve heard guys running a richer mix but I never do. My experience with running a richer mix will build carbon on top of the piston and the added compression will lead to quicker power loss. Once you get your milling technique figured out, it’s just a matter of keeping your skills a secret so everyone isn’t pestering you to saw something for them. Oh, the air filter is also garbage but an easy fix is the madsens after market for about $60. Not absolutely necessary but you will see the fine oily sawdust almost immediately in your carb. Drive a guy nuts but not an instant death threat. Plus might give you an excuse to buy a modified jug and piston in the future


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## EbS-P (Dec 20, 2020)

I think a lot depends on what your idea of “do it” is.  I’m pretty sure if I can cut 32” wide slabs with full house milling  chain and it has the power to dog in on 34” inch buck of red oak with a 28” bar the G660 has enough power sure I could have stalled it out, but I was paying attention.   Keeping the refs up to keep the chain speed up to keep lots of bar oil flowing.  Every body says don’t tow a boat with your V6.  But I had a V6 and a willingness to preserve its longevity. Sure would have been nice to have more power pulling big hills but 2nd gear with the heat on full blast (summer or winter) did just fine.  Could have have over heated it sure. Would I want to tow cross country with a V6 for a living, never.  

I was concerned and here was my back up plan.  The hotlzforma 36” bar is 0.63 and hard nose.  Change out to a .404 sprocket and find or make a loop of the hyper skip chain from Oregon.  




__





						RipCut | Oregon Products
					

Ripping chain created specifically for chain-type sawmills. Produces smooth ripping cuts with supreme efficiency to make precise boards and planks. Find the right chain for your saw at OregonProducts.com.




					www.oregonproducts.com
				




evan.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 20, 2020)

Exactly, I can stall the 880 if I choose. I let it rest a few times on a long /wide cut just like a smaller saw. Just common sense. I cut a 5 acre piece of 3-4’ diameter fir for my son in-law to break the 880 in before I started milling with it. Probably not necessary but made me feel better except for my sore back dragging that boat anchor around lol.


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## SpaceBus (Dec 21, 2020)

Diabel said:


> Thank you sooooo much! I am so confused, I so appreciate all the input. I have the g660 in my amazon cart. But after reading all the info on OPE. The 395 seemed like the only reliable option.  There are zero available 395s in north america below 1000


I got lucky and found a 395xp that had been sitting on the sales counter for over a year, the manager was happy to let it go. The 660 will work, the 880/81 would be better, and the 395 is slightly better still with the oiler. With the 881 you can add an aux oiler and have the same benefit of the 395. 

The 395xp does have a weakness and that is fine saw dust likes to collect on the ignition coil under the flywheel cover. The issue is compounded by the dust/chips being soaked in whatever cutting oil you are using. The heat from the coil and saw build up and bake that sawdust onto the coil and the oil film keeps the coil from cooling down as fast. Pulling the cover at the end of the day or blowing it out frequently with an air compressor will make this a non-issue.

If you don't plan on doing much milling and you aren't in a hurry the 660 would be great. If you think this will become a bigger hobby, then cry once.


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## SpaceBus (Dec 21, 2020)

Regardless of what saw you pick, definitely invest in a good sharpening system. More important than power is a sharp chain. I milled dozens of wide boards with my Husky 460, which is less than half the power of my 395xp, but I took the chain off and sharpened it after every log and took my time. The 460 does better with a sharp chain than the 395 with a dull chain, or one with inconsistent cutter lengths. I ruined a nice Oregon Powermatch bar by milling several logs with the cutters being much shorter on one side than the other. This put a lot of pressure on the right side bar rails and ultimately ruined it. After figuring out my mistake I've had smooth sailing ever since.


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## salecker (Dec 21, 2020)

Seeing that you are only planning one project...
I would go for the 660 size,and learn how to sharpen your chain.
If you enjoy the milling and plan on doing more then keep your eyes open for a real saw.
If you don`t blow up the clone saw you can always sell it once you find a real saw.
If you don`t get into it seriously,the clone should last a long time.Especially if you replace some of the important parts with Stihl parts as you build it.


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## Diabel (Dec 26, 2020)

I bit the bullet and ordered the G660 from amazon. Could not resist 330.00 for the saw. I figured with the help of the people here I will be able to order and replace parts as they fail. Read tons about the saw, watched many vids. Bookmarked lots of them. Did not know that the saw needs a break in period, that it needs a richer fuel mixture. Recently i picked up a brand new 261c. Nowhere in the Stihl manual I saw break in period.
I will need help with choosing the proper bar chain  set up. Would like to go with 36” but dont have to. The largest logs that i have are 25” (hemlock). I dont want to spend crazy $$ on the bar/chain.

Oh, and i will be picking up that Grenberg 12v grinder.


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## SpaceBus (Dec 26, 2020)

Diabel said:


> I bit the bullet and ordered the G660 from amazon. Could not resist 330.00 for the saw. I figured with the help of the people here I will be able to order and replace parts as they fail. Read tons about the saw, watched many vids. Bookmarked lots of them. Did not know that the saw needs a break in period, that it needs a richer fuel mixture. Recently i picked up a brand new 261c. Nowhere in the Stihl manual I saw break in period.
> I will need help with choosing the proper bar chain  set up. Would like to go with 36” but dont have to. The largest logs that i have are 25” (hemlock). I dont want to spend crazy $$ on the bar/chain.
> 
> Oh, and i will be picking up that Grenberg 12v grinder.


There are two grinders, one is cheaper, but it is basically just a dremel. The more expensive one has the jig that guides it and definitely worth the money. For bars and chains check out Carlton/Woodland Pro  ripping chain on amazon or get it straight from Bailey's online. For your first bar definitely get something cheap since you will probably put some damage on it learning how to mill. The Forester bars are inexpensive and pretty stiff. Also check out a bar dressing file so you can keep the bar rails flat. If you have a belt sander with a 90 degree fence, I've heard they work well.


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## Diabel (Dec 26, 2020)

SpaceBus said:


> There are two grinders, one is cheaper, but it is basically just a dremel. The more expensive one has the jig that guides it and definitely worth the money. For bars and chains check out Carlton/Woodland Pro  ripping chain on amazon or get it straight from Bailey's online. For your first bar definitely get something cheap since you will probably put some damage on it learning how to mill. The Forester bars are inexpensive and pretty stiff. Also check out a bar dressing file so you can keep the bar rails flat. If you have a belt sander with a 90 degree fence, I've heard they work well.


Yes, the one I want is the one with the jig attachment. They seem to be all sold out in amazon. 
Do you think 36” is the correct length to start milling with?


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## SpaceBus (Dec 26, 2020)

Diabel said:


> Yes, the one I want is the one with the jig attachment. They seem to be all sold out in amazon.
> Do you think 36” is the correct length to start milling with?


Something in that range should be suitable. Look into using canola oil for milling, it is "thinner" and flows well along long bars, your g660 will appreciate it.

Edit: Check Bailey's for the grinder and jig.


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## Diabel (Dec 26, 2020)

SpaceBus said:


> Something in that range should be suitable. Look into using canola oil for milling, it is "thinner" and flows well along long bars, your g660 will appreciate it.
> 
> Edit: Check Bailey's for the grinder and jig.


Already have couple of gal of canola oil. The oil jig is pretty simple to set up if needed.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 26, 2020)

I would run the shortest bar possible. I’d buy a 28” and pull the dawgs and hand rip the swell. I believe all new motors have a break in period. The larger the motor, the more noticeable. You will likely have to adjust the carb after a bit. I would buy a 63 gauge bar and run 404 full skip chisel although I should try a round chain for the outside cuts just to see if it holds up better but I would pull it and run chisel after regardless. Happy for you! Keep us updated and I’ll try to help any way I can. I found the rungs of the ladder are in the way so I hope you have considered something else and if you are doing longer lengths I have a decent method that works for me


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## EbS-P (Dec 26, 2020)

I got the 52” version of this.  It’s sprocket top and 3/8. A lot more work/$$  to switch .404.
Hoping to try it out in the next day or two but I need to replace some bar studs and a chain tensioner.








						36" Chainsaw Bar And Ripping Chain Sprocket Nose  3/8 .063 114DL Fits Stihl Saws  | eBay
					

This is a 36” 3/8(pitch). 063(gauge) 114DL(drive links) bar.



					www.ebay.com
				



.

here is what I ordered with my saw.









						36inch Guide Bar .404" .063" 104DL For Stihl 070 090 088 084 076 051 050 MS880  | eBay
					

FITS: STIHL 070 090 088 084 076 075 051 050 MS880. NOTE: THIS BAR WILL NOT FIT MS660.



					www.ebay.com
				




I ran 8 tanks through it before I started milling.  I think 25:1 is excessive if using good mix oil.  That said I ran two gallons through it at 25:1.  Will mix 32 ish from now on.  With a hard nose bar I lost 4” of max width. Closer to 6-7” with a roller top once you bolt on the Alaskan mill. 

Evan


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## SpaceBus (Dec 26, 2020)

Nealm66 said:


> I would run the shortest bar possible. I’d buy a 28” and pull the dawgs and hand rip the swell. I believe all new motors have a break in period. The larger the motor, the more noticeable. You will likely have to adjust the carb after a bit. I would buy a 63 gauge bar and run 404 full skip chisel although I should try a round chain for the outside cuts just to see if it holds up better but I would pull it and run chisel after regardless. Happy for you! Keep us updated and I’ll try to help any way I can. I found the rungs of the ladder are in the way so I hope you have considered something else and if you are doing longer lengths I have a decent method that works for me


I don't know if the 28 will work for his 24" logs after you take into account the Alaskan mill itself.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 26, 2020)

SpaceBus said:


> I don't know if the 28 will work for his 24" logs after you take into account the Alaskan mill itself.


Agreed, it would be tight. Not sure what his logs look like but if there were only a couple @ 26”, I’d rip the swell off so I could make a 28 work. Just me, I have a lot of different length bars to choose from


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## Diabel (Dec 26, 2020)

All good info. Thank you all. So, I should not bother with milling chain?


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## Nealm66 (Dec 26, 2020)

EbS-P said:


> I got the 52” version of this.  It’s sprocket top and 3/8. A lot more work/$$  to switch .404.
> Hoping to try it out in the next day or two but I need to replace some bar studs and a chain tensioner.
> 
> 
> ...


I run the recommended mix ratio. I use stihl and husky mix. To each his own but if you’re running rich, pull the jug and see how much buildup there is on the top of the piston.


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## SpaceBus (Dec 26, 2020)

I would definitely get milling chain, it's already ground to 10-15 degrees on the top plate for milling. You can grind a chain to whatever you want, but you will lose a lot of cutter length if starting with something at 30 degrees. On the bright side your kerf will probably be narrower, but the chain won't last as long. Most people do not mill with full chisel chain and you won't find any ground to ripping spec out of the box. The semi chisel profile keeps an edge longer and yields a narrower kerf. 

Since you are starting new, you could get a hard nose bar and run Stihl 63PMX chain which will consistently yield a 1/4 kerf, but this will be pricier. The 63PMX chain is a 3/8 low profile chain that is made to run on a 660 or 880 sized saw. Since it's technically low profile it won't work well on a conventional sprocket tip bar, but the radius on a harnose bar works. This is what Logosol suggest for their own chainsaw mills.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 26, 2020)

Diabel said:


> All good info. Thank you all. So, I should not bother with milling chain?


I seem to do just fine with full skip chisel but you can try that other. My neighbors seem to do fine by round filing the chisel as well. You can try a small loop of chisel on your 272 and see if you like it better for yourself.  I only changed my grind angle slightly and it will zip through 24” of cants like butter and I can still use for regular cutting. It’s not far off a factory grind. No idea what the actual angle is


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## Diabel (Dec 26, 2020)

I will go ahead and order that forester 36” combo Evan suggested. My longest bar right now is 25” stihl. I will order a milling chain for that as well. I walked the woods this morning and saw a bunch of 14-20” cedars that died last summer. I will take them down and practice milling on them. Might be a bit easier on the saw and me. Also, i will take down a massive 30”+ hard maple with major lean (will have my tree guy do that for me....). I will break-in the 660 on bucking that using the recommended fuel mix.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 26, 2020)

Sure hope you’re able to take some pics of your operation when you get to it. I would at least spray paint the ends of the boards when you get them on your shed. How long is your longest cut?


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## Diabel (Dec 26, 2020)

14’ would be the longest if the milling goes well. This would be for the roof 2x6s. If milling does not go so well then I will order the rafters and then the 12’ headers would be the longest.


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## brenndatomu (Dec 26, 2020)

Run a few tanks through the saw cutting firewood and stuff before milling, to break it in before loading it heavy on the mill...or, you can mill slowly, taking lots of breaks at first too I suppose...and vary the throttle often...I personally didn't run WOT hardly at all the first tank.
From what I read on milling with the 660, 32:1 full synthetic is highly recommended...especially the first few tanks, but even after that too...might not hurt to run 91/92 octane also. High cylinder temps are your enemy.
Go bigger than you think you need on the bar...you lose 4-6" when mounting the mill.


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## Diabel (Dec 26, 2020)

I am super excited. We normally have about 4’ of snow here at the lake by this time. This year we got 1” or 2” here and there followed by massive rains and temps above freezing. I will be spending the next 10 days here. I am so tempted to slap my 25” bar on my ma360 mate it to the mill and do some test runs....


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## SpaceBus (Dec 26, 2020)

Is that 25" bar the same mount style as the 660? The big Husqvarna bars don't fit on the smaller (60cc and less) saws and they each call for a different number of drive links for the same length bar. This is where things get confusing. I do know for sure that for a 24" Husqvarna large mount bar you need 84 drive links in a loop and that is the same for a Stihl 25" bar.

If you haven't already, make an account on the Forestry Forum and you will learn a lot.


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## Diabel (Dec 26, 2020)

SpaceBus said:


> Is that 25" bar the same mount style as the 660? The big Husqvarna bars don't fit on the smaller (60cc and less) saws and they each call for a different number of drive links for the same length bar. This is where things get confusing. I do know for sure that for a 24" Husqvarna large mount bar you need 84 drive links in a loop and that is the same for a Stihl 25" bar.
> 
> If you haven't already, make an account on the Forestry Forum and you will learn a lot.






I use this bar on my ms360 in bigger wood, when the 20” is too small for one cut when bucking. When the g660 arrives i would think that i can use this bar. I admit all the numbers when it comes to bars are confusing.


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## SpaceBus (Dec 26, 2020)

I broke in my 395 cutting firewood for two or three tanks and then pretty much just the mill. It barks on the first pull choke out and then idles on the second. First pull if it has been running.


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## SpaceBus (Dec 26, 2020)

Diabel said:


> View attachment 270345
> 
> I use this bar on my ms360 in bigger wood, when the 20” is too small for one cut when bucking. When the g660 arrives i would think that i can use this bar. I admit all the numbers when it comes to bars are confusing.



That will work great if it fits the 660, Stihl model numbers mean nothing to me  . I like .050" gauge for milling, but you will find mixed opinions on this.

A quick explanation: Gauge is the thickness of the drive tooth, pitch is a convoluted number that comes from measuring rivet to rivet on the chain, and drive links are the number of links with drive teeth on the bottom. Google will give you a more in depth explanation.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 26, 2020)

Diabel said:


> 14’ would be the longest if the milling goes well. This would be for the roof 2x6s. If milling does not go so well then I will order the rafters and then the 12’ headers would be the longest.


Don’t worry, I promise you I can walk you through to get perfect boards. I’ll let you get past some of the practice failures . That 36” bar is gonna suck on those small logs ha ha! The small stihl bar might become your friend! The 50 gauge is apt to get sloppy quicker and start running on you but no reason to stop you from making a few boards and a big smile!


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## Nealm66 (Dec 26, 2020)

Might not be a bad idea to run your process past us before you tackle the longer cuts. Gotta eliminate sag. Easy to do and necessary


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## Diabel (Dec 26, 2020)

Nealm66 said:


> Might not be a bad idea to run your process past us before you tackle the longer cuts. Gotta eliminate sag. Easy to do and necessary


Believe you me. I will be bugging you guys quite a bit come April. Thank you.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 26, 2020)

If you can round up some long 2”x4” metal studs or some angle iron before hand , it will help with those first cuts. You’ll fight those rungs on the rounded part of the log sticking up. I really like the studs cus they’re light and rigid enough I can span 8’ without support if I’m careful not to push down. I can build as many mid supports super quick and slide the studs along to make any length. Remember though, with length comes taper and waste


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## Diabel (Dec 26, 2020)

I have few ladders around, was planning on using one of the ladder sections.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 26, 2020)

Diabel said:


> I have few ladders around, was planning on using one of the ladder sections.


Then I suspect you will see what I mean


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## Diabel (Dec 26, 2020)

Nealm66 said:


> If you can round up some long 2”x4” metal studs


Do metal studs come in 14’? 
you think a ladder section will sag?


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## Nealm66 (Dec 26, 2020)

Diabel said:


> Do metal studs come in 14’?
> you think a ladder section will sag?


I’m not sure the lengths, might find something free on Craigslist that will do the trick as well. Everything sags pretty much but it’s the rungs that mess things up. You can put support boards anywhere tho keep from sagging. My neighbors used angle iron with good success but too expensive for me


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## brenndatomu (Dec 26, 2020)

Diabel said:


> I have few ladders around, was planning on using one of the ladder sections.





Nealm66 said:


> Then I suspect you will see what I mean


Can dimensional lumber be attached to the bottom of the ladder rails to get things up high enough for the rungs to not interfere on smaller logs?
How is angle iron used...I would think the 2 independent sides need to be attached to each other somehow?


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## Diabel (Dec 26, 2020)

brenndatomu said:


> Can dimensional lumber be attached to the bottom of the ladder rails to get things up high enough for the rungs to not interfere on smaller logs?
> How is angle iron used...I would think the 2 independent sides need to be attached to each other somehow?


Yes, i try to get my head around that too...


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## Nealm66 (Dec 26, 2020)

I screw a leveled1x2 on the  ends of the log to set the rails on. Supports in the middle if necessary. Speedy square a 90 off the cut for the second cut. Then I set my rails on the flat and drop down for my cants.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 26, 2020)

Sorry, at work so hard to explain


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## Nealm66 (Dec 26, 2020)

Does that make sense?


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## Nealm66 (Dec 26, 2020)

The rungs of the ladder get in the way for long cuts or taper


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## SpaceBus (Dec 26, 2020)

This is why I have a logosol.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 26, 2020)

It’s really not difficult


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## Nealm66 (Dec 26, 2020)

I might get a chance to video before spring. Just got a lot going on


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## Nealm66 (Dec 26, 2020)

Ok , I got a second to explain better. So lets say I just want to make 8’ boards. On the small end of log I screw a 1x2 (or 3 ) level and able to support the rails. Same on the other end. I get them as high as possible but able to get screws into enough meat to be strong. I set my rails on , drop down below the board and make my first cut. Then I flip the log and do the same thing only don’t care about level- I make a 90 off the flat I just made. Now I set my rails on this flat and drop down to the desired thickness- let’s say 6” and repeat until not possible. Then I flip them all with the live edge up (I do all this on 4x4’s) I screw a 1x across all of them tight together and level them. Then I screw a  level 1x up near the top on each end to put my rails on and make my last flat. Then put my rails on the flat and drop down my desired thickness (2”) and mill till I can’t. The rails will correct any imperfections. Always good to have your rails out past when you finish so it doesn’t dovetail ( that’s what I call it) . For longer boards I grind a level flat spot for my 1x to sit in. I do this by holding the saw  level as possible and work it back and forth. Just takes a couple minutes and a couple checks. You can screw in some screws underneath to fix if needed


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## Nealm66 (Dec 27, 2020)

Another thing might be to spray paint your log ends. Not sure what you’re spring weather is like but it will help stop the checking


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## EbS-P (Dec 27, 2020)

I’m about to swap the 36” to a 52” and mill up this crotch for some wall art. Maybe some 6x tomorrow for some other projects.  We’ll see how how the G660 handles it.


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## Diabel (Dec 27, 2020)

Did you have to replace any parts in the 660 yet?


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## EbS-P (Dec 27, 2020)

Diabel said:


> Did you have to replace any parts in the 660 yet?


Chain tensioner yesterday and a bar stud I cross threaded. I should put in the high volume oil pump but that seems like more than I wanted to tackle right now.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 27, 2020)

Super cool! It will be interesting to see the grain and if you’ll have to use an epoxy to keep it together. I see my neighbors just had some big hooty fir fell. Guessing about 60” with huge limbs. I should sneak over and see if I can mill some slabs but just no time


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## Nealm66 (Dec 27, 2020)

EbS-P said:


> Chain tensioner yesterday and a bar stud I cross threaded. I should put in the high volume oil pump but that seems like more than I wanted to tackle right now.


Sometimes you can drill out the bar oiler hole and gain but all of the longer bars I’ve seen come ready to go


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## EbS-P (Dec 27, 2020)

41” wide. Blew over two years ago during hurricane Florence. More later.  
She cuts ehh?


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## SpaceBus (Dec 27, 2020)

EbS-P said:


> 41” wide. Blew over two years ago during hurricane Florence. More later.
> She cuts ehh?
> 
> View attachment 270467
> ...



Those are beautiful and this is where Alaskan mills definite shine. Is this a maple or elm tree?


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## EbS-P (Dec 27, 2020)

SpaceBus said:


> Those are beautiful and this is where Alaskan mills definite shine. Is this a maple or elm tree?


Tulip poplar. Will loose the greenish color as it dries.   Only accessible by foot for me as I don’t have any implements.    City just bought all this as a drainage easement and will be clearing it all in the next 12 months. Got get it while I can.   If anyone has any tips for milling where it fell I’m all ears.  This is only my third day of cutting in 18 months so don’t think I’m an expert

Evan


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## Nealm66 (Dec 27, 2020)

That looks gorgeous! Its one of the dilemmas I face doing tree work. So much faster/cleaner just to slice everything into firewood but so much potential goes up in smoke ha ha! I’m not sure if the video is still on YouTube cus it’s been about 3 years since I watched it but there’s a guy that mills about a 60’ slab out of a spruce log in Alaska. He taps nails in using a string level and then slides a board across them. That’s the video that led me to using the rails and ditch the ladder. But ya, basically you mill long and slice the lengths if you can’t roll. Have to chunk out where you end. I never have to pack in like your doing and I know what you’re up against moving those heavy slabs. That’s what made me buy my tractor ha ha! About killed of my poor buddy hefting those things about. I like my system. Not saying there’s not better methods out there but it works for me. I rip a bunch of stickers that are the same space as my kerf to follow behind instead of wedges to keep everything as flat as possible. But really, after the first cut, the rails true up any flaws. I think my biggest struggle is places to dry and I messed up a lot of hard work not taking the time and effort to do that part correctly. Had some disappointing windshake in some beautiful butt logs that learned me as well. First time I tried to shorten up on my 72” cannon bar, didn’t compensate for the taper and my chain hit the mill arm! Ha! Only do that once. Well, if I think of something I’ve learned, I’ll gladly share it for whatever it’s worth


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## SpaceBus (Dec 28, 2020)

EbS-P said:


> Tulip poplar. Will loose the greenish color as it dries.   Only accessible by foot for me as I don’t have any implements.    City just bought all this as a drainage easement and will be clearing it all in the next 12 months. Got get it while I can.   If anyone has any tips for milling where it fell I’m all ears.  This is only my third day of cutting in 18 months so don’t think I’m an expert
> 
> Evan


Definitely get some oil or wax on those slabs, or at least slow down the drying process as much as possible. Poplar is bad for checking/cracking and loses water fast. Great for firewood seasoning, not great for nice flat slabs. Never seen such beautiful poplar!


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## EbS-P (Dec 28, 2020)

SpaceBus said:


> Definitely get some oil or wax on those slabs, or at least slow down the drying process as much as possible. Poplar is bad for checking/cracking and loses water fast. Great for firewood seasoning, not great for nice flat slabs. Never seen such beautiful poplar!


I think it looks great.  I called the local live edge wood shop when I started this.  They really don’t do poplar as there is no demand.  He said if it comes through his shop he prices about 15-20% lower than anything else. Last lab he sold was 28”by 8’ and said 700$ was a fair price.  

I will seal the end grain. I’m not to worried about this one as it’s going to be hung on the wall with back spacers and Rbg LED light strips behind it for back lighting. Probably will rip into 12” wide boards so I can run through thicknesser. Or just mount it green.  
Evan.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 28, 2020)

I’ve thought about building one of those router sleds. Hope I won’t need to. I did build a way to level /slice large burrows with my mill. I sunk 4 posts and leveled a bunch of block that I concreted in place. Then I can set some good flat 4x4’s across as my table. Then I have 2 8”x20’ steel studs I can adjust to any height on both ends . Works really good as long as whatever I’m trying to straighten out is heavy enough so it doesn’t slide. I’ve found for live edge slabs it’s better just to reshape them with water and pressure. Otherwise a nice 2” slab gets a lot more thin than one would expect.


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## EbS-P (Dec 28, 2020)

Update on how the G660 preformed yesterday.  The cut yesterday was about 22” wide at the small end and 42” at the big end. 52” bar and 100$ 36” Alaskan mill customized with T-slot extruded aluminum to extend it to the longer bar. 
Cuts really nice on the small end then it got wider and knotty.  Really had to go slow with lots of extra oil.  I maybe could do the 36” by my self but I think it’s better as a two person job as it’s easier to keep the saw revs right in the sweet spot.  if I set up a small boat wench at the saw end of the mill and run the rope/ cord to a fixed pulley set a couple feet beyond the end of the cut then back to the the tip end with a bit of bungee cord to keep the tension and added an oiler at the tip end I could maybe manage by myself. 

G660 ran great. I have not ever adjusted the carb.  It’s not the easiest starting saw. I can’t drop start it even with the decomp.  Needs a skip chain.  I have a spool of full skip semi chisel I just have not made any loops yet. Poplar is soft and cuts well would not expect the same results on tougher woods. 
Big bars are hard on the chain tensioner. Add the weight of the mill to that I’m being careful to always lift with with the saw and the mill.  I don’t want to break mounting studs or crack the case. 

All in all it works. it’s definitely pushed to the limit and in time sensitive production environment it would have me a little concerned. But it’s made five 11’ cuts, max 32” and one 7’ cut max 42” wide. I’m pleased. All said I have about 800$ US total in the saw, bars, chain and mill. So it has paid for it self.
Evan


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## Nealm66 (Dec 28, 2020)

It’s a lot of work but it’s definitely rewarding. I pieced a hooty 4’ fir down for a relative down in Portland and made some 8’ slabs that he sold for $250 a piece! Green even! They did look really good though with the big knots. Wonder how many ever survived to become something as that’s to me where the real skill lies. Glad to hear the g660 is holding up. I’ve been running stihl chain just because that’s the last roll I bought but I’m going to switch to Oregon as it’s a little softer and smoother cutting IMO. Plus I have better success with the rider gauges, not sure why. Anyways, thanks for sharing.


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## Diabel (Jan 6, 2021)

Greetings
The g660 arrived today, all good. Nice packaging and all. When i opened the gas tank plug, i could smell gas, then i opened the oil plug and i smelled oil. Is this normal? I thought these saws came dry. I have only bought saws from dealers before.


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## EbS-P (Jan 7, 2021)

That’s the way mine arrived.  My guess is they have some quality control and starting it up is the easiest way. I haven’t touched my carb since I took it out of the box maybe they check tuning too.  One might hope they put a tach on it so they don’t send out a saw that’s over revving.  I watched a good YouTube video where the gentleman went through his G660 which he had run serval tanks through.  He basically was re torquing everything.  Had all intentions of doing that to mine but didn’t get around to it.  I’ll post it if I can find it again.  

Evan


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## EbS-P (Jan 7, 2021)

Here it is. That was easy enough to find.  The only video in my favorites.


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## Diabel (Jan 7, 2021)

That is what i thought in terms of quality control. 
i watched that video yesterday. Might still go through the bolt tightening and locktite stuff. Will run couple of tanks of 25:1 mix while cutting then couple of 32:1 while cutting. Then will retighten everything before milling. Will also put the tach to it making sure it is below 12500 rpm.
Never did any of this to my stihl says. I suppose warranty and trusting local dealer service helps.


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## Nealm66 (Jan 7, 2021)

Diabel said:


> That is what i thought in terms of quality control.
> i watched that video yesterday. Might still go through the bolt tightening and locktite stuff. Will run couple of tanks of 25:1 mix while cutting then couple of 32:1 while cutting. Then will retighten everything before milling. Will also put the tach to it making sure it is below 12500 rpm.
> Never did any of this to my stihl says. I suppose warranty and trusting local dealer service helps.


If you plan on wearing ear protection, doesn’t hurt to modify the muffler a little bit. Just have to be careful in the dry months and port in such a way so it doesn’t blow right at the wood.


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## Diabel (Jan 7, 2021)

Ear protection check. 
I am also looking into a nose/mouth mask. Any suggestions?


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## Diabel (Jan 7, 2021)

Forester bar and chain should be here next week (36”).  Next, aux oiler. Should be able to rig something diy. After that will be the rails vs ladder.


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## salecker (Jan 7, 2021)

Diabel said:


> Forester bar and chain should be here next week (36”).  Next, aux oiler. Should be able to rig something diy. After that will be the rails vs ladder.


You should be able to turn up the oiler if they copied the real one right,otherwise get the high output oiler from Stihl


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## Diabel (Jan 7, 2021)

How should the power head be facing, recoil up or down. Have seen set up both ways. I am right handed and naturally would want my right hand on the throttle, but that means recoil will be facing down and the exhaust shooting right in my face....


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## Nealm66 (Jan 7, 2021)

Diabel said:


> Forester bar and chain should be here next week (36”).  Next, aux oiler. Should be able to rig something diy. After that will be the rails vs ladder.


Try making a regular cut after each run. It helps clear the rails. Shouldn’t need an oiler for what you’re milling


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## EbS-P (Jan 7, 2021)

I as I recall with the oiler wide open it ran out before the gas did.  On my big cuts I stop half way and refill.  I really like this combo can for filling a hot saw up. Doesn’t spill a drop
.


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## Nealm66 (Jan 7, 2021)

Diabel said:


> How should the power head be facing, recoil up or down. Have seen set up both ways. I am right handed and naturally would want my right hand on the throttle, but that means recoil will be facing down and the exhaust shooting right in my face....


Facing up, may have to stick a board under for last cut cus full wrap gets in the way. You’ll figure it out. Can’t wait, take some pics!


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## brenndatomu (Jan 7, 2021)

EbS-P said:


> I watched a good YouTube video where the gentleman went through his G660 which he had run serval tanks through. He basically was re torquing everything. Had all intentions of doing that to mine but didn’t get around to it. I’ll post it if I can find it again.


I had to re-torque the cylinder bolts on my Farmertec kit 660, that I assembled myself, using a torque wrench...so yes, it is a good idea to go back through them...I would say especially so on the blue pre-assembled ones...


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## Nealm66 (Jan 7, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> Facing up, may have to stick a board under for last cut cus full wrap gets in the way. You’ll figure it out. Can’t wait, take some pics!


I use my left hand for throttle and right for pushing. Exhaust really isn’t an issue. Gets a bit dusty though


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## Diabel (Jan 7, 2021)

brenndatomu said:


> I had to re-torque the cylinder bolts on my Farmertec kit 660, that I assembled myself, using a torque wrench...so yes, it is a good idea to go back through them...I would say especially so on the blue pre-assembled ones...


I just went through all the bolts, as per the video. All were nice and tight. I checked the cylinder bolts, all tight. Did not remove them since no torque wrench here. All the ones i removed had a blob of blue locktite on them. I removed the spark plug and it was wet. Definitely, the saw was tested running. I suppose that is good.


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## Diabel (Jan 7, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> I use my left hand for throttle and right for pushing. Exhaust really isn’t an issue. Gets a bit dusty though


Initially, when i was setting up the mill I had it for the right hand throttle. It was natural for me. But then i switched it as per initial videos i saw. This will be new to me, left hand throttle will be fine.


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## Nealm66 (Jan 7, 2021)

I use my table saw and make a few stickers at about the same width as my kerf instead of wedges


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## Diabel (Jan 7, 2021)

Saw looks and feels good. The only thing is the oiler screw only has about 1/4 turn play, maybe less. I believe on my ms360 i can turn the screw about 360 deg. Is this normal to have so little play?


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## EbS-P (Jan 7, 2021)

Diabel said:


> Saw looks and feels good. The only thing is the oiler screw only has about 1/4 turn play, maybe less. I believe on my ms360 i can turn the screw about 360 deg. Is this normal to have so little play?


That how mine is. The “E” is straight up and wide open isn’t much of a turn from there.


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## Diabel (Jan 7, 2021)

EbS-P said:


> That how mine is. The “E” is straight up and wide open isn’t much of a turn from there.


Perfect. Thank you


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## brenndatomu (Jan 7, 2021)

Diabel said:


> I just went through all the bolts, as per the video. All were nice and tight. I checked the cylinder bolts, all tight. Did not remove them since no torque wrench here. All the ones i removed had a blob of blue locktite on them. I removed the spark plug and it was wet. Definitely, the saw was tested running. I suppose that is good.


I meant after you put a tank or two of fuel through 'er...


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## Diabel (Jan 7, 2021)

brenndatomu said:


> I meant after you put a tank or two of fuel through 'er...


Yes i will. I will cut some logs with it for firewood. Using 25:1. Before i start milling i will recheck all the bolts. I will use 32:1 for milling.


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## Nealm66 (Jan 7, 2021)

Pull the jug and look at the top of the piston after you run that rich and see how much carbon.


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## Diabel (Jan 7, 2021)

Supposedly, i will get help from my teenage son and my daughter’s boyfriend. Remains to be seen. I enjoy working alone especially in the woods. Should i be considering a winch set up? I like gadgets and will do anything to make my job easier.


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## Nealm66 (Jan 7, 2021)

Try it first, you shouldn’t need anything for that size wood. Keep your riders slightly lower than normal to help feed


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## Nealm66 (Jan 7, 2021)

Man, before you try breaking it in running that rich, call a legit stihl shop and ask what they recommend. I can’t imagine that’s a good idea. Besides blubbering and creating a bunch of oil in your carb, I’d think it would make it harder for the rings to seat good


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## Diabel (Jan 7, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> Man, before you try breaking it in running that rich, call a legit stihl shop and ask what they recommend. I can’t imagine that’s a good idea. Besides blubbering and creating a bunch of oil in your carb, I’d think it would make it harder for the rings to seat good


This is what utubers recommended. Hm..... 
The china saw manual says 50:1 but this is a straight reprint from Stihl ms660 manual.


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## Diabel (Jan 7, 2021)

My stihl dealer is super nice but i cannot imagine him giving an opinion on a china saw.


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## Nealm66 (Jan 7, 2021)

I’d leave the China part out


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## brenndatomu (Jan 7, 2021)

I run 32:1 all the time, always have (well, might go as lean as 40:1 if running low on oil) and have never had any carbon issues...using semi synthetic oil. 
25:1 is probably a little slobbery, but I don't think a couple tanks of it will hurt...


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## EbS-P (Jan 7, 2021)

While one might expect twice the carbon build up with 25 vs 50. The difference is really 4% oil versus 2% oil by volume.  I think the real reason for the stated 25:1 is the global sales of the G660 and limited availability of good mix oil in many parts of the world.  Just a guess.  If you are using old motor oil as mix oil you might want to go a little heavier on the oil.  

G660 doesn’t have to meet any emissions tests either.  
Evan


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## Nealm66 (Jan 7, 2021)

I’ve always ran the recommended and either stihl or husky mix. Husky mix lately only because I bought a 5 gallon jug but no issues with stihl mix through the years. I keep hearing about running rich , a quick call to a saw shop wouldn’t hurt anything. Who knows, maybe I’m wrong. Haven’t had any issues though. Keep remembering way back working for a large contractor that supplied gas and oil and running rich for 5 years and definitely caused saws to loose compression quicker than they should have IMO. The top of the pistons would be black with a layer of carbon from the burnt oil


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## Diabel (Jan 7, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> I’d leave the China part out


Got it. Will call it “blue” from now on.


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## brenndatomu (Jan 7, 2021)

Diabel said:


> Got it. Will call it “blue” from now on.


I think most dealers are familiar with the "blue saws" too...I would just refer to it as a 660...that's what I do if I want an OEM part...so far so good.


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## SpaceBus (Jan 8, 2021)

I wear a half mask respirator made by Ellipse, it has the N95 pods. In addition I wear safety specs, in ear hearing protection, and also over the ears protection. I would also not wear clothes you care about. This is where I really go through some canola oil as well.


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Jan 8, 2021)

Family fun ..


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## SpaceBus (Jan 8, 2021)

Sean McGillicuddy said:


> View attachment 271525
> 
> Family fun ..



???


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## EbS-P (Jan 8, 2021)

I thought about wearing a respirator, with the VOC  filters. it was so hot the first time we cut I didn’t wear it.  It’s not bad as long as there is a bit of a breeze.  The exhaust at wide open throttle for a milling cut is  pretty clean we you compare it to all the the start stop and idling of more normal usage.  That said if it were a still day and I would rather wear the respirator than breathe it all day.  I’m used to the whole mask thing now anyway

Evan


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## SpaceBus (Jan 8, 2021)

EbS-P said:


> I thought about wearing a respirator, with the VOC  filters. it was so hot the first time we cut I didn’t wear it.  It’s not bad as long as there is a bit of a breeze.  The exhaust at wide open throttle for a milling cut is  pretty clean we you compare it to all the the start stop and idling of more normal usage.  That said if it were a still day and I would rather wear the respirator than breathe it all day.  I’m used to the whole mask thing now anyway
> 
> Evan


I tried to use mold remediation goggles, but they instantly filled with sweat over the summer. I think I will like them in the winter. The respirator wasn't bad and once I had it on for a few passes I didn't even notice it anymore. In fact I prefer it to the medical type mask I wear when I have to do business at an establishment that refuses contactless precautions. If the respirator had a filtered exhaust I would wear it for such dealings, but people would probably give me  even dirtier looks...


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Jan 8, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> ???


Picture them coated in Canola oil ....


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Jan 8, 2021)

You could try this next time


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## Diabel (Jan 8, 2021)

That would not work. I am looking at 3-M masks with replacement cartridges.


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## SpaceBus (Jan 8, 2021)

Sean McGillicuddy said:


> Picture them coated in Canola oil ....


More like covered in sawdust, which is what it looks like when using conventional oil, but then you are covered in toxic waste rather than oily sawdust.


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## Nealm66 (Jan 8, 2021)

Diabel said:


> That would not work. I am looking at 3-M masks with replacement cartridges.


I hope you’re able to find safety gear and masks that work for you. I’ve found I’m really useless with eye protection and a mask would be sweet but I struggle trying to wear one of those when I’m working on the mill which is weird because I wear one all the time at work. The screen eye protection might work for you with a mask. Maybe for ear protection something you can take on and off easy because at least in my case , it seems like someone always interrupts and has questions


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## SpaceBus (Jan 8, 2021)

I tried to use just the mesh face shield on my forestry helmet, but the dust still got into my eyes. The mold goggles are nice because they have a strap vs stems, which are uncomfortable with the over the ear hearing protection. I double up on ear pro because I like to hear birds sing and I got enough hearing damage in the Army. Hearing damage is cumulative and cannot be reversed, aka it doesn't get better over time, just worse. I can talk to my wife with my Surefire EP3 in ears, but when I have both layers on I can't hear anything. Milling lumber becomes a meditative experience when it happens at low volume. I can't wait to get some nicer over the ear for a near silent experience.


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## Diabel (Jan 8, 2021)

The plan is to mill in April. Before the heat and bugs. I should be ok with the mask, i wear glasses and hate when a drop of sweat falls on your lenses...you technically have to stop cutting. Ear protection i have a hard time with. Tried several while cutting but have a hard time keeping it on


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Jan 8, 2021)




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## Nealm66 (Jan 8, 2021)

Diabel said:


> The plan is to mill in April. Before the heat and bugs. I should be ok with the mask, i wear glasses and hate when a drop of sweat falls on your lenses...you technically have to stop cutting. Ear protection i have a hard time with. Tried several while cutting but have a hard time keeping it on


I wear ear plugs or I’ve put a small wad of toilet paper in my mouth to wet it and roll it into an ear size ball. That sounds gross but that’s logging. It takes the edge off and allows to hear a bit.


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## Diabel (Jan 8, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> I wear ear plugs or I’ve put a small wad of toilet paper in my mouth to wet it and roll it into an ear size ball. That sounds gross but that’s logging. It takes the edge off and allows to hear a bit.


I did pick up a can of earplugs. It does muffle the sounds a bit. Works great when my wife is talking to me.....
I am hoping that i will get use to the complete ear protection. When i am cutting or bucking i seem to be in need of complete awareness of my surroundings and when i cannot hear anything, it throws me off.


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## Nealm66 (Jan 8, 2021)

Diabel said:


> I did pick up a can of earplugs. It does muffle the sounds a bit. Works great when my wife is talking to me.....
> I am hoping that i will get use to the complete ear protection. When i am cutting or bucking i seem to be in need of complete awareness of my surroundings and when i cannot hear anything, it throws me off.


Yup. I came super close to getting hurt really bad trying to wear eye protection. Can’t see for crap now. Doctor says I have scar tissue on my lense or something. Doesn’t surprise me. I can work all day with a chip in my eye. Often dig it out in the morning covered in goo. Sounds bad but try the toilet paper. Just enough. I still hear good unless the wife is telling me something


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## Nealm66 (Jan 8, 2021)

Don’t wet the toilet paper too much!


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## Nealm66 (Jan 8, 2021)

I was talking to my neighbors last weekend. They took some chains in and had them ground at 10 degree angle ( I think that’s right) They said they didn’t cut better but lasted a little longer


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## Nealm66 (Jan 8, 2021)

My chisel bit grinder doesn’t have any marked angle so I have no idea what I’m running for angle. It’s pretty close to factory though. Seems like I made the top plate angle slightly thicker so not to dull as quick but still decent for regular cutting


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## Diabel (Jan 13, 2021)

I am looking at oregon chains on amazon. Confusing. Description for one says “it fits bars with .050, 0.058, 0.063 gauge. So, which one is it? Is the diff. So small that it does not matter? The bar i want to put this chain on is 0.050 and if the chain happens to be 0.063 as per me it will be too tight.


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## SpaceBus (Jan 13, 2021)

Diabel said:


> I am looking at oregon chains on amazon. Confusing. Description for one says “it fits bars with .050, 0.058, 0.063 gauge. So, which one is it? Is the diff. So small that it does not matter? The bar i want to put this chain on is 0.050 and if the chain happens to be 0.063 as per me it will be too tight.


You can't put a  .063  loop on a .050 bar. I don't like Oregon chain, ,look at Carlton/Woodland Pro  30rp (.050 ripping chain) on Amazon or Bailey's online. I do have a Oregon bar, but generally speaking I wish it were an OEM Stihl or Husqvarna bar. It's a Powercut 24" .050, but for the large Husqvarna stud pattern. The 30rp loops come set at 10* on the top plate which yields a pretty nice finish. Especially when you hit it with the grinding stone with the lube paste. I have been sharpening my loops at 5* top plate and 10* downward angles for a smoother finish but a slower cut. This seems to hold a nice edge and gives me a nice cut. I usually rip all the bark cuts and then sharpen the chain before I start cutting boards. I'm hoping to invest in a pressure washer in the near future to try and make the slab cuts a bit easier on the chain.


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## SpaceBus (Jan 13, 2021)

If you do go with Oregon ripping chain it comes factory set to 15* on the top plate, but I didn't like the huge kerf compared to the Carlton loops.


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## Nealm66 (Jan 13, 2021)

It probably won’t help to pressure wash. I suspect there’s mineral in the cambium. 50 gauge 36” bar? Wow, lol


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## SpaceBus (Jan 13, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> It probably won’t help to pressure wash. I suspect there’s mineral in the cambium. 50 gauge 36” bar? Wow, lol


I skid the logs, so yes, it will help in my case. Most folks that mill large quantities of wood pressure wash their logs before milling them whenever possible, at least this is the consensus on the Forestry forum. I also plan on using the pressure washer for other things, not just cleaning logs.


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## Nealm66 (Jan 13, 2021)

I tried pressure washing some logs I skidded without muck luck. Industrial sprayer 4000 psi. , older Doug fir though with some thick knarly bark so maybe better success in your case. I chipped all the bark off but dulling was same as a good quick wire brush and chip off where it’s caked on mud


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## Diabel (Jan 13, 2021)

These logs were not skidded but tossed around with an excavator. I am sure there are dirty. Hemlock bark is sometimes 1” thick. Will try peeling it but it will not be easy


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## Nealm66 (Jan 13, 2021)

Diabel said:


> These logs were not skidded but tossed around with an excavator. I am sure there are dirty. Hemlock bark is sometimes 1” thick. Will try peeling it but it will not be easy


Try one peeled and one just quickly wire brushed. You’ll see what I’m saying. Something in the cambium


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## Nealm66 (Jan 13, 2021)

If you end up working late, you can see the sparks of it hitting some kind of grit in the cambium.


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## SpaceBus (Jan 13, 2021)

Trees come out of the ground, so usually they pick up the hard solids in the bark on the way out. Any minerals in the cambium would not be solid and instead dissolved in water. The bark of some trees is also just much harder than the sap and heartwood.


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## Nealm66 (Jan 13, 2021)

Man, just be careful chipping bark off if you use an ax or hatchet. To me that’s the most dangerous part of the journey. Also, an ax is safer and less fatigue for some reason. At least for me


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## Diabel (Jan 13, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> Man, just be careful chipping bark off if you use an ax or hatchet. To me that’s the most dangerous part of the journey. Also, an ax is safer and less fatigue for some reason. At least for me


I was thinking of using one of those flat blade ice chippers that you use in driveways.


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## Diabel (Jan 13, 2021)

The bar and chain came in today. 36”, 0.063 (carleton chain) as per @SpaceBus suggestion. Thank you. I suppose with this gauge thing you have to pay attention when buying. I will look for a 0.050 ripping chain for my 25” stihl bar. And it will not be oregon. Things are slowly coming together. The mask will be coming in this week. Next will be to source out some of those steel square rails, and i suppose those steel plates to hand the rails on.


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## Nealm66 (Jan 13, 2021)

Diabel said:


> View attachment 271887
> 
> The bar and chain came in today. 36”, 0.063 (carleton chain) as per @SpaceBus suggestion. Thank you. I suppose with this gauge thing you have to pay attention when buying. I will look for a 0.050 ripping chain for my 25” stihl bar. And it will not be oregon. Things are slowly coming together. The mask will be coming in this week. Next will be to source out some of those steel square rails, and i suppose those steel plates to hand the rails on.


You don’t need the steel plate. Just use a 1x3 and a bit longer than the width of log. Probably 3 for your lengths. Flatten out a spot in the middle of the log just wide enough and deep enough to get a good screw hold and elevate or lower to match your ends and provide support. Make sure all 3 are level horizontally and don’t use too long of screws in the middle so to keep from having to drop down too much. After first cut, just lay your rails on the flat you made to clean up imperfections if there is any. Might have to screw along side the rails to keep them from walking, I have to cus mine are really light


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## Nealm66 (Jan 13, 2021)

Use your rails on every cut. Don’t just use the flat you made. Keep your rails past and before to eliminate dovetail.you can slide them if they’re short


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## Nealm66 (Jan 13, 2021)

And don’t forget to not look at the beautiful wood grain


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## Diabel (Jan 13, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> Use your rails on every cut. Don’t just use the flat you made. Keep your rails past and before to eliminate dovetail.you can slide them if they’re short


Interesting. So, I should categorically not use a ladder. It would be so easy. I have a brand new heavy duty aluminum one.


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## Nealm66 (Jan 13, 2021)

I used a 16’ for a while. Just a pita compared to the rails. Especially for longer cuts like you want. Try to imagine the sag in the middle


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## Nealm66 (Jan 13, 2021)

I’m 100% serious about not looking at the grain. Ruined a lot of good boards by seeing beautiful grain and slabs are a pita. And heavy!


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## Diabel (Jan 13, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> I used a 16’ for a while. Just a pita compared to the rails. Especially for longer cuts like you want. Try to imagine the sag in the middle


I have watched guys support the ladder in several spots in the middle.


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## Nealm66 (Jan 13, 2021)

Diabel said:


> I have watched guys support the ladder in several spots in the middle.


I’m not saying it can’t be done, I did it at first. Just so easy and accurate with the rails and no length limit


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## Diabel (Jan 13, 2021)

Once this covid thing eases I will visit a metal shop.


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## Nealm66 (Jan 13, 2021)

My neighbors are using some angle iron. I actually think it works better but heavy!


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## Nealm66 (Jan 13, 2021)

I should also say it’s a good idea to use about 3 4x4’s for your length. Level everything up for your last board making rips and shim the middle to avoid waste on last board


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## SpaceBus (Jan 14, 2021)

Granberg makes a slick rail system. I considered it a while back.


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## Nealm66 (Jan 14, 2021)

My neighbor was saying he’s elevating his log , I think he said after the outside cuts, using a bigger John Deere with forks. I told him to let me know next time they mill. Wouldn’t surprise me if they have improved on what I showed them. Curious to see how they elevate. They’ve just about completed 4 or 5  20 to 26 ft trailers with beams and 2” thick top boards. Went too wide on the top boards if you ask me . I suspect they will cup but who knows. Looks incredible with the wide boards though.  I’ll try to get some pics when I go down


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## TerryH (Jan 27, 2021)

TradEddie said:


> Another option that might make economical sense is to find and pay someone local with a portable sawmill.
> 
> TE


As Logosol says, "some saw for the enjoyment", and if that is an influence, then hiring out maybe not so much?


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## Diabel (Jan 30, 2021)

I think I am ready for milling. I will order a second ripping chain and that Grenberg grinding jig. We barely had any snow until the beginning of Jan then few storms rolled in. One massive one 18” overnight. It will be a while before it all melts.


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## EbS-P (Feb 18, 2021)

A question that popped into my head is what is the best drive sprocket to use while milling with a 660.  I’m guessing teeth like _an 5 or 6 T  _as chain speed is less important than engine rpm???  Happy to hear any thoughts.

evan

**edit went the wrong way with teeth few is slower chain right
** replaced more with fewer.


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## Diabel (Feb 18, 2021)

I could be wrong, but I think it is the opposite. A twelve speed bike comes to mind


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## EbS-P (Feb 18, 2021)

Have to think about it like the front sprocket not the rear.  Smaller gear less chain speed less load on engine. I think I’m right now.


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## brenndatomu (Feb 18, 2021)

Drive sprocket larger/more teeth = more speed/less power


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## Nealm66 (Feb 18, 2021)

I would run a 7 tooth. That’s what they typically come with and works fine


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## Diabel (Feb 19, 2021)

My g660 has a 7 tooth.


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## EbS-P (Feb 19, 2021)

Diabel said:


> My g660 has a 7 tooth.


My quick searching I did not come across any 6T drivers.  7 T was fine with a 36” bar moving up to a full house 52” bar I think I could use the extra torque.  Probably a switch to full skip chain will have more impact than a sprocket change.


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## Nealm66 (Feb 19, 2021)

I think a 660 is kinda small for a 52. Not having the outer clutch wouldn’t help either. I’d say for milling a 42 would be tops . At least for me


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## EbS-P (Feb 19, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> I think a 660 is kinda small for a 52. Not having the outer clutch wouldn’t help either. I’d say for milling a 42 would be tops . At least for me


For tulip poplar, keeping the chain sharp, and  being carful I was able to mill up a crotch that was 42” wide at the wide end. 25” at the narrow.  It’s not ideal but I can get by.  In total I have milled only 8 cuts and feel that I go my money’s  worth out of it.  
 I agree for any hardwood or or heavy use 42” is a good limit.


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## Nealm66 (Feb 19, 2021)

I’m not sure if they make a 52 for the bar studs either.


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## Nealm66 (Feb 22, 2021)

I took some pics of the farm trailers my neighbors re planked this am. Was in a hurry so.. some of these boards I’m guessing 16-18 wide. Surprised they never cupped


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## Nealm66 (Feb 22, 2021)

I wanted to get some pics of the old wood furnace with the mechanical thermostat from the 60’s. They said you can fit 6’ lengths of firewood into it


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## Nealm66 (Feb 22, 2021)

It was 4 trailers and a couple were super old


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## Diabel (Feb 22, 2021)

I am so excited. Looks like I will not be able to start milling til beginning of May.


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## Nealm66 (Feb 22, 2021)

It will be fun for us as well. My neighbors originally only wanted to cut 2 beams that were longer than the normal  portable mills. I brought the mill stuff down and after they saw how well it worked they re did all the trailers and some other stuff. I know they milled up a big cedar but I was too busy to check it out. Hard to find good hemlock around here this far away from the coast. There’s a ton of big cottonwoods though that dry white and have really cool grain. Nobody wants them for anything.I’ve had some milled up before for a guy that needed them for lowboy planks for a huge dozer and was surprised how it turned out .  I guess the huge grousers will chop through anything hard. The softer cotton wood was one of the few woods that would hold up.


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## EbS-P (Feb 22, 2021)

Diabel said:


> I am so excited. Looks like I will not be able to start milling til beginning of May.


I feel for you not being able to get the new tool out. Can you at least get the saw out and run a few tanks through it?  Added up and in total I have made only 12 milling cuts but that is about 15 tanks of fuel.  Granted the smallest cut started at 22” and the biggest ended at 42”.  I guess that I have about 25-30 tanks through it in total.  I ran the first tank through it and never revved it up with out a load and then never wide open under load for more than 5-10 seconds.  I can’t turn it over with out using the decomp button.  You have to be way more manly than I am to to delete those.  

In the mean time here’s what I got done yesterday. Will be bookshelves and porch swings by the end of the month.  Staying super flat is not as important to me as getting it done soon. I did use paste wax as a finish last time and I really like that as a sealer to slow down drying butjust As important I don’t have to wait for it to dry.  As for the greenness all around remember it was a hurricane took down this tree and made all of this possible for me. So you don’t need to be jealous.

Evan


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## Nealm66 (Feb 22, 2021)

EbS-P said:


> I feel for you not being able to get the new tool out. Can you at least get the saw out and run a few tanks through it?  Added up and in total I have made only 12 milling cuts but that is about 15 tanks of fuel.  Granted the smallest cut started at 22” and the biggest ended at 42”.  I guess that I have about 25-30 tanks through it in total.  I ran the first tank through it and never revved it up with out a load and then never wide open under load for more than 5-10 seconds.  I can’t turn it over with out using the decomp button.  You have to be way more manly than I am to to delete those.
> 
> In the mean time here’s what I got done yesterday. Will be bookshelves and porch swings by the end of the month.  Staying super flat is not as important to me as getting it done soon. I did use paste wax as a finish last time and I really like that as a sealer to slow down drying butjust As important I don’t have to wait for it to dry.  As for the greenness all around remember it was a hurricane took down this tree and made all of this possible for me. So you don’t need to be jealous.
> 
> ...


Is that a 52” bar? If so,I didn’t know they made one that would fit the bar studs. It looks nice with no taper. My 72” cannon makes it hard to choke up on the mill without the chain making contact


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## Diabel (Feb 22, 2021)

The 660 arrived sometime mid Jan. The idea was to run several tanks of gas through it bucking. Then tons of snow came and the bucking idea was out. I decided not to put any gas in it. Also,  i have been out of the country since more less mid Jan and no idea when I will be back (damn covid). Hopefully mid April.


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## EbS-P (Feb 22, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> Is that a 52” bar? If so,I didn’t know they made one that would fit the bar studs. It looks nice with no taper. My 72” cannon makes it hard to choke up on the mill without the chain making contact


It is a 52”.   its worked well so far.   Chain tensioner is a weakness for the 660 at this length of bar. eBay with chain shipped for 230$.  Mill was extended with t-slot aluminum. It would be nice to be make a shorter one for my 28” bar if I ever do dimensional lumber.


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## Nealm66 (Feb 22, 2021)

Diabel said:


> The 660 arrived sometime mid Jan. The idea was to run several tanks of gas through it bucking. Then tons of snow came and the bucking idea was out. I decided not to put any gas in it. Also,  i have been out of the country since more less mid Jan and no idea when I will be back (damn covid). Hopefully mid April.


Dang, that sucks


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## Nealm66 (Feb 22, 2021)

EbS-P said:


> It is a 52”.   its worked well so far.   Chain tensioner is a weakness for the 660 at this length of bar. eBay with chain shipped for 230$.  Mill was extended with t-slot aluminum. It would be nice to be make a shorter one for my 28” bar if I ever do dimensional lumber.


Huh, well, that’s good to know. I should probably get a smaller mill too. I had to replace a couple of the cheap adjustment studs after a while but not a big deal. Hard to get used to not sinching these down tight


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## SpaceBus (Feb 23, 2021)

I'm not really sure I understand the hard starting larger saws. My 395xp starts very easy and I ALWAYS use the decomp valve, even on my little 460. The first pull with the choke out gets a bark or stumble, then the next pull with the choke in gets the saw to start right up. When the saw is already hot it starts even easier.


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## salecker (Feb 23, 2021)

And i never use the decompression,my personal saws get them plugged
Oh and i drop start most saws,another controversial proceedure


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## brenndatomu (Feb 23, 2021)

salecker said:


> And i never use the decompression,my personal saws get them plugged
> Oh and i drop start most saws,another controversial proceedure


When I built my MS660 clone I left the base gasket out to bump compression up a bit...it will break the starter rope all too often without the compression release being used...or just cough and rip the handle out of your hand in a way that makes you want to cuss a blue streak!
Starts pretty easily using the decomp, so no reason not to.


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## SpaceBus (Feb 23, 2021)

brenndatomu said:


> When I built my MS660 clone I left the base gasket out to bump compression up a bit...it will break the starter rope all too often without the compression release being used...or just cough and rip the handle out of your hand in a way that makes you want to cuss a blue streak!
> Starts pretty easily using the decomp, so no reason not to.


I've been slapped by the rope on my 395, not fun.


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## Nealm66 (Feb 23, 2021)

They’ve plugged all the modified saws I’ve owned. I definitely have even my medium size saws either already running or warmed up good before I have them raised when I’m piecing a tree down. I think it’s kind of funny that something like this would be a macho thing. I have a friend that could qualify for a gorilla at a zoo and watching him start a large high compression saw is comical. It’s mostly technique


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## Diabel (Feb 23, 2021)

If there is one, use it. Even my 261 has one and I use it.


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## Diabel (Mar 9, 2021)

Getting closer to my complete setup. With lumber prices going through the roof....I am even more excited about milling.


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## Nealm66 (Mar 9, 2021)

Does that thing work off batteries? Might be nice for sharpening while it’s on the mill vs changing chains like I do


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## EbS-P (Mar 9, 2021)

Good call on the powered one. I’m kinda kicking myself for thinking the hand filing jig would be ok.  I got a couple crummy files. And I’m going to change the angle of on  a loop to 10 degrees so the powered stones are looking better than ever.


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## Diabel (Mar 9, 2021)

No batteries. I plan to rig it to a power pack while at the mill.


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## Diabel (Sep 1, 2021)

It has been a while. I am finally back and hope to start milling this afternoon. I was able to roll one log down to a platform where I think I can mill it. The log is not quite level. I believe I should level my ladder for the first cut? Is it a safe assumption?


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## brenndatomu (Sep 1, 2021)

I think you want to level it with the log, level with the ground doesn't matter so much...


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## Nealm66 (Sep 1, 2021)

Tack a 1x3 level on each end sticking up far enough to clear rungs


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## EbS-P (Sep 1, 2021)

Making the ladder parallel to the log is what I do.  Milling down an incline is easier if you don’t have a wench.  I recommend one with some rope that has some stretch.
Evan


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## brenndatomu (Sep 1, 2021)

EbS-P said:


> Milling down an incline is easier if you don’t have a wench.


Most wenches will tell you to go pound salt when you tell them to get to work on your log anyways...


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## Diabel (Sep 1, 2021)

brenndatomu said:


> Most wenches will tell you to go pound salt when you tell them to get to work on your log anyways...


Oh my…….
I got side tracked with cutting couple of dead yellow bitches this afternoon. Will be setting up the alaskan in the morning. Man, my new (three tanks of gas) ms261c is on steroids!


----------



## Diabel (Sep 3, 2021)

I got milling today. Measured one side perfectly to get 4 (6x6) posts. Started and by the time i got three side passes, the other side was 17x17. That is 3” off. 
what do I do now? Where did I go sideways?


----------



## Diabel (Sep 3, 2021)

5” sorry. Utube confused me with 13” to get 4 6x6s


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## EbS-P (Sep 3, 2021)

Tried 3x6s.  1 out of 12 is straight and not tapered.    I’m guessing  you have the end square,  It’s just a bit like a truncated pyramid.   All your next slab cuts will be parallel to the top. So you need is to make the two sides parallel or just  cut the 6x6 out and square up later on a band saw?   You will have two parallel sides (top and bottom).  I was going to solve this issue how to make square larger dimensional lumber  with a beam cutter jig for the saw.  It didn’t work out very well, but I got boards cut. 

now my plan is to plane top and bottom (my 6” side) then run the 3” side through a jointer and then send Them through the table saw to square up the 4th side. Slabs are easy.  Lumber is not so much.


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## EbS-P (Sep 3, 2021)

How‘s the saw running?  I finally got around to putting a tach on mine and came from the factory running 13k rpm (I’m at sea level and it was warm 80 degrees out.  ) I took it back to 12 or 12.2 did notice a bit of loss in power but the cuts were wider about  36” and it’s guzzling fuel.  
Evan


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## Diabel (Sep 3, 2021)

EbS-P said:


> How‘s the saw running?  I finally got around to putting a tach on mine and came from the factory running 13k rpm (I’m at sea level and it was warm 80 degrees out.  ) I took it back to 12 or 12.2 did notice a bit of loss in power but the cuts were wider about  36” and it’s guzzling fuel.
> Evan


It is running ok. My tac is cheap and the numbers are all over. It does sound like it is running odd. It sucks gas, 3/4 tank per pass. Oil worries me, it leaks at the oiler and the tip (36”) is dry.


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## Nealm66 (Sep 3, 2021)

So not sure what YouTube says but I like to mill on 4x4’s. From where you’re at, keep slicing off 6 “s. Then stand them up and tack them together with a 1x3, keep dropping down 6”s. Nice to have them on 4x4’s.  Also, instead of just sliding your mill on the log, tack some 1x3’s and use your ladder every cut to keep from porpoising.


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## Nealm66 (Sep 3, 2021)

Make sure there’s not a lubrajet hole on the bar. Drill it out. Nice to have a little shorter bar. 36 is probably a pita. It would definitely help your power, speed and fuel. I always use short as possible and shave the wide spots


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## Nealm66 (Sep 3, 2021)

Also, nice to use kerf size strips of wood instead of wedges to keep things true


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## EbS-P (Sep 4, 2021)

Diabel said:


> Oil worries me, it leaks at the oiler and the tip (36”) is dry.


Mine won’t oil a 36” bar either. I’m pretty sure I cooked cooked the bar and after I dressed the bar I ran out of tensioner travel and had to drill a new hole for the tensioner pin.  Would have been easier to shorten chain.  
My answer was a 52” bar and auxiliary oiler. (My dad)


----------



## SpaceBus (Sep 4, 2021)

I feel less crazy every time I see other people struggling to mill lumber.


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## BCC_Burner (Sep 4, 2021)

I can't help but think milling your own lumber is an enormous waste of time, energy and effort.  Unless you're going to the trouble to get it all graded, it can't be used for anything structural, so why bother?


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## SpaceBus (Sep 4, 2021)

BCC_Burner said:


> I can't help but think milling your own lumber is an enormous waste of time, energy and effort.  Unless you're going to the trouble to get it all graded, it can't be used for anything structural, so why bother?


If you live in an urban or suburban environment, sure it really doesn't make sense. So far my Logosol has paid for itself with the lumber milled in just one year, especially with the pandemic lumber crisis. I have built a wood shed, a few raised beds, shed floor, chicken coop, aviary, and a few small projects with the lumber I've milled from my property.


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## brenndatomu (Sep 4, 2021)

BCC_Burner said:


> I can't help but think milling your own lumber is an enormous waste of time, energy and effort.


Exactly what many think of your firewood habit...


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## Diabel (Sep 4, 2021)

BCC_Burner said:


> I can't help but think milling your own lumber is an enormous waste of time, energy and effort.  Unless you're going to the trouble to get it all graded, it can't be used for anything structural, so why bother?


Economically it makes no sense. I have way too much firewood already. I figured it would be a great project to mill my own lumber for the shed I plan to build. The milling itself was hard work but fun. It was windy yesterday and the saw dust was getting in the eyes…that was annoying.
Now I have to figure out how to make those posts 6” at both ends


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## SpaceBus (Sep 4, 2021)

Diabel said:


> Economically it makes no sense. I have way too much firewood already. I figured it would be a great project to mill my own lumber for the shed I plan to build. The milling itself was hard work but fun. It was windy yesterday and the saw dust was getting in the eyes…that was annoying.
> Now I have to figure out how to make those posts 6” at both ends


I plan on getting a full face respirator because I'm tired of sawdust getting behind my eye protection.  Along with debris from my angle grinder somehow getting behind my safety specs.


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## salecker (Sep 4, 2021)

BCC_Burner said:


> I can't help but think milling your own lumber is an enormous waste of time, energy and effort.  Unless you're going to the trouble to get it all graded, it can't be used for anything structural, so why bother?


Rough cut lumber is fine for structural use...
Inspectors don't recognize any lumber without a grade.
But that doesn't mean it can't be used.
Only a worry if you want an inspected and approved job.
If you go to sell a house up here there is no looking to see if there were permits for work,if you are getting financing,the lender will want an inspection.Then the inspection will tell what needs to be addressed for the lender to OK the loan/mortgage.
I know lots of homes that have sold with rough cut lumber in them.


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## EbS-P (Sep 4, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> I plan on getting a full face respirator because I'm tired of sawdust getting behind my eye protection.  Along with debris from my angle grinder somehow getting behind my safety specs.


I tried it but I sweat to much and it’s always hot 9 months out of the year.  I can’t even wear a clear shield so I have full wrap safety glasses behind forestry helmet screen.  But if it’s a still day I will wear a respirator with yellow and pink cartridges  particulate and VOC filter.  The saw dust from the poplar is so wet it doesn’t blow around much.  If it gets really fine I need to sharpen the chain.

Evan


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## EbS-P (Sep 4, 2021)

salecker said:


> If you go to sell a house up here there is no looking to see if there were permits for work,if you are getting financing,the lender will want an inspection.


Nobody cared that the kitchen remodel was not a permitted job when we bought our hose.  Many things not done to code.   I’m pretty sure I was aware of it at the time.  Appraisal came on under sale price and we ended up amending the contract to the appraisal price in “as is” condition.   Home inspectors I think are a racket as with real estate agents.  Hour home inspector put a sticker on every window that didn’t open but didn’t bother to identify any outlets that would not securely hold a plug.    

I’m not milling to save money or time.  My setup is about 1000$ and I’m super cheap.   It’s a hobby that has useful end products.   I like the fact that many of the items we see an use every day in our house came from a single tree growing on the lot.    I could not have purchased the slabs for less than I spent on the mill.    

This weeks project is custom L shaped bunk bed loft with live edge timbers.    Lumber alone would be close to 200$. If I wanted it poplar it would be 500-600$. So I think you can make an argument that for certain projects/species  it is cost effective.  I probably have 4-5 hours of work in this stack of timber.  


Diabel said:


> Diabel said:
> 
> 
> > Economically it makes no sense.


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## Nealm66 (Sep 4, 2021)

It’s definitely not the easy button to chainsaw up decent lumber. There’s a ton of small sawmills around here and I’ve used them. Especially if the market is crap for raw logs or if I have some huge rough logs the aren’t worth much. I have a self loading log truck take them in and then just sell the lumber .  That being said, longer/wider length lumber or not enough worth paying for the haul or whatever, makes the chainsaw mill worth the effort. It’s a huge help having some expertise and tools( like a tractor and a dump bed) but there’s no amount of YouTube videos going to replace what you actually learn and figure out. Once you get it dialed in it’s really not too bad. Live edge slabs are the worst but hold the most value. I’ve got a couple pretty good size stacks of it and eventually plan on doing something with it ha ha!!


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## EbS-P (Sep 6, 2021)

Diabel said:


> That is 3” off.
> what do I do now?


This may not be helpful but I should have cut and stickered all my slabs and the rented a big circular saw and hauled my generator to the slabs.   Would have saved a lot of time and everything would have been square and straight.


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## Diabel (Sep 6, 2021)

EbS-P said:


> This may not be helpful but I should have cut and stickered all my slabs and the rented a big circular saw and hauled my generator to the slabs.   Would have saved a lot of time and everything would have been square and straight.


I thought about it. I decided to just slab that log into 1 3/4” and cut the diff. on a table saw. The next log I will measure 12x12 square at one end and do same at the other end. Hopefully that way I will get 4 6x6s.


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## SpaceBus (Sep 6, 2021)

You won't get four perfect 6x6's if the cant is exactly 12x12 since the saw kerf will take at least 3/8" of material each pass with standard sized 3/8 pitch chain.


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## Nealm66 (Sep 6, 2021)

The only time you measure anything is when you’re dropping down to make your cants and your desired beams/boards


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## Nealm66 (Sep 6, 2021)

If you cut cants, stand them up and tack them together, you can cut multiple boards  at a time waay faster then any table saw. Probably burn up a table saw if tried on a regular basis


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## Diabel (Sep 6, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> You won't get four perfect 6x6's if the cant is exactly 12x12 since the saw kerf will take at least 3/8" of material each pass with standard sized 3/8 pitch chain.


Thanks. That will be added.


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## Diabel (Sep 6, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> If you cut cants, stand them up and tack them together, you can cut multiple boards  at a time waay faster then any table saw. Probably burn up a table saw if tried on a regular basis


Good idea. Will do


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## Nealm66 (Sep 6, 2021)

Diabel said:


> Good idea. Will do


Just true up the tops and drop down desired width


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## Diabel (Sep 7, 2021)

Is this ripping chain any good? It is about 68.00cad on Amazon 
Oregon 72RD084G 84 Drive Link 3/8-Inch Ripping Saw Chain Standard Sequence​

Thank you for the recommendation to stop using the 36” bar. I ripped some boards with my 25” 35% stihl bar. Saw oiled well but it was a slow going. Maybe the chain is dull.


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## Diabel (Sep 7, 2021)

Or should I just regrind the stihl chain to 10% and be done with it?


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## SpaceBus (Sep 7, 2021)

The Stihl chain is better, but you will lose some meat going to 10*. Perhaps your 36" bar doesn't match up the oil hole with the pump very well?


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## Diabel (Sep 7, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> The Stihl chain is better, but you will lose some meat going to 10*. Perhaps your 36" bar doesn't match up the oil hole with the pump very well?


Perhaps. I will look and see. Enlarging the hole maybe.


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## SpaceBus (Sep 7, 2021)

Diabel said:


> Perhaps. I will look and see. Enlarging the hole maybe.


Supposedly an aux oiler is really easy to setup on an Alaskan mill, water cooling may also be something to think about. I got the water cooling attachment for my mill, allegedly it will help the bar and chain last longer.


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## Nealm66 (Sep 7, 2021)

I wish you were closer, I’d give you a 28” 404 bar with a good  chisel bit grind on it. That 66 would smoke through those logs. Your not going to be happy with the rip chains. My best suggestion is to keep grinding off the outside with the 36 and maybe I can make a couple good 25” chains and send to you to cut the cants/beams. The outside of the log destroys a good chain. Is your 25” 3-8’s? I think I have enough left on my roll to make a couple but would need the driver count


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## Nealm66 (Sep 7, 2021)

You definitely shouldn’t need an auxiliary oiler for a 36” bar cutting those logs with a 66


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## Nealm66 (Sep 7, 2021)

I might have a tired 28” 404 bar with some life left as well, I’ll check


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## Nealm66 (Sep 7, 2021)

And I’m pretty sure I have a spare 404 sprocket laying around


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## Diabel (Sep 7, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> I wish you were closer, I’d give you a 28” 404 bar with a good  chisel bit grind on it. That 66 would smoke through those logs. Your not going to be happy with the rip chains. My best suggestion is to keep grinding off the outside with the 36 and maybe I can make a couple good 25” chains and send to you to cut the cants/beams. The outside of the log destroys a good chain. Is your 25” 3-8’s? I think I have enough left on my roll to make a couple but would need the driver count


Yes, 3/8 and 84 links.
Thank you but I cannot ask you to send me any chains unless I pay for them. I am pretty sure the bark killed my brand new 36” rip chain. I  will sharpen it. Also, what angle/degree should I sharpen my regular 25” 84 link chain to rip faster?


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## Nealm66 (Sep 7, 2021)

If it’s round file, from my neighbors experience, they said not much gain from 10 degree. Just fight the 3 outside cuts off, then switch to 25” and sharpen like normal would be my advice. Helps to have a guide of some sort while hand filing and a rider gauge. I’ll see what I’ve got laying around tomorrow. I probably got some rag chains and an old bar that I have no need for that will definitely be a huge improvement. I just don’t have a good way to resharpen but if you just use for the cants and beam/boards will get you quite a ways and your arms won’t be so sore pushing them round file chains.


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## EbS-P (Sep 8, 2021)

Diabel said:


> Is this ripping chain any good? It is about 68.00cad on Amazon
> Oregon 72RD084G 84 Drive Link 3/8-Inch Ripping Saw Chain Standard Sequence​
> 
> Thank you for the recommendation to stop using the 36” bar. I ripped some boards with my 25” 35% stihl bar. Saw oiled well but it was a slow going. Maybe the chain is dull.


Having an extra chain to swap is faster than sharpening for me.  Ripping with factory 35* chain left a rougher finish and it was grabby but it was archer chain(I bought 25’ roll of skip and have have no problems with it) and the raker depth was inconsistent out of the box.  Once I filed to 10* it was not faster but left a better finish.   

I sharpen a 156 DL chain after about 5 full tanks. 

debarking if possible saves a chain sharpening but probably not much time


are you running all 0.063 gauge?


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## Diabel (Sep 8, 2021)

EbS-P said:


> Having an extra chain to swap is faster than sharpening for me.  Ripping with factory 35* chain left a rougher finish and it was grabby but it was archer chain(I bought 25’ roll of skip and have have no problems with it) and the raker depth was inconsistent out of the box.  Once I filed to 10* it was not faster but left a better finish.
> 
> I sharpen a 156 DL chain after about 5 full tanks.
> 
> ...


Yes 0.063 on the 36”
And 0.050 on the 25”


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## SpaceBus (Sep 8, 2021)

A 25" Stihl bar is 84 DL in 3/8 or 3/8 LP. Post some pics of your bars and I'll show you how bad I ruined mine before figuring things out.


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## Diabel (Sep 8, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> A 25" Stihl bar is 84 DL in 3/8 or 3/8 LP. Post some pics of your bars and I'll show you how bad I ruined mine before figuring things out.


Yes it is 3/8. 
I am back in the city until Friday afternoon. Can post some pics on Sat. I do not think I have yet ruined the bars. The 25” is being oiled well. I stop and check.


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## SpaceBus (Sep 8, 2021)

Diabel said:


> Yes it is 3/8.
> I am back in the city until Friday afternoon. Can post some pics on Sat. I do not think I have yet ruined the bars. The 25” is being oiled well. I stop and check.


Two of my 24" 84DL bars are trashed from me not knowing what I was doing. The handle on my 395xp was pressing against the saw carriage and causing the bar to twist while sawing. I know on the Alaskan mill you won't have this problem, but those ruined bars still work for me if I take it slow. Make sure you aren't over tensioning the chain. I've been erring on the side of too lose rather than too tight. If the chain is too lose I'll hear it and stop, but if it is too tight I won't know until I have put huge gaps where the bar contacts the log because the chain was too tight to "jump" off the bar into the cut. The chain should have a small gap off the bar when it is actually cutting wood, but the drivers shouldn't be able to come all the way out of the groove. There was a diagram floating around on this forum showing what this looks like, but I can't find it now.


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## Nealm66 (Sep 8, 2021)

Ya, it’s not just the bark that dulls .Something in the cambium would be my guess. I just wire brush the bark real quick, right where the cut should be if it’s not slipping. Be careful not to run the chain too loose, that’s a quick death blow to an expensive 3/8 bar.


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## SpaceBus (Sep 8, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> Ya, it’s not just the bark that dulls .Something in the cambium would be my guess. I just wire brush the bark real quick, right where the cut should be if it’s not slipping. Be careful not to run the chain too loose, that’s a quick death blow to an expensive 3/8 bar.


I've noticed the line between too loose and too tight is very fine when milling.


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## Nealm66 (Sep 8, 2021)

Not too tight, not too loose.


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## Nealm66 (Sep 8, 2021)

Lol, yup. Most of my rags should be stretched pretty good but with your 36, once it’s stretched, it should be loose on the saw when it cools, tighten it so you can move it on the bar with some resistance, should be around a 1/2 inch you can pull in about the middle of the bar. There abouts. If it’s stretched pretty good, you shouldn’t have to mess with it for a while. If it’s loose again when it’s cold, tighten to the same again


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## Nealm66 (Sep 8, 2021)

Ha, here’s some old school stuff for ya. Found this digging through some old rags. Used to carve the back down for less drag. Think it’s a 32”. Probably end up breaking a 32 down as I’ve only found one 28. I’ve started throwing them away before they start to pile so the piles not too big lol. Still, got probably 10 32’s I could break down


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## Nealm66 (Sep 8, 2021)

Also found a decent looking Oregon 28 bar. Looks good anyways. Original tip. If it runs on you, just take it down and have the rails ground should get you through the log pile


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## Diabel (Sep 8, 2021)

Thanks for the pics. I think the cost of shipping will be too much. Especially the bar. I think I will do what you suggested. Big cuts I will use the 36” and sharpen often. Other cuts the regular 25” will have to do. Maybe pickup another 25” chain 35*.


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## Nealm66 (Sep 8, 2021)

Ok, it’s up to you. Just let me know if you change your mind. I know I could optimize my grind a little better for milling but I played a little bit with it and found a happy medium so I can use it for tree work or milling and it’s a pain to try and get it dialed in so it’s staying where it’s at till the grinder gives up. I don’t have anything to mill handy but if you want, I’ll try to make a couple simple drawings if you keep struggling with the milling that will definitely help you make perfect boards. I know it’s probably hard to understand what I’m saying without some sort of illustration


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## Diabel (Sep 14, 2021)

It was a busy weekend and I did not get a chance to do as many passes as I wished. Last week stopped by a Stihl dealer and I picked up a second  30* 84 link chain. It was 24.00 and a 10* they wanted 44.00. 
On Monday morning before heading back to town I had a bit of time and instead of swapping the chain I decided  to sharpen the one that is already on the mill. When bucking rounds you can easily tell the condition of your chain by looking at the chips, not so when milling. I had a feeling the chain was dull since the last pass with it was painfully slow. Using my little gizmo as suggested by @SpaceBus here, i was done within 10min without taking the saw off the mill. I did three passes in a 10’ log in a nice and timely fashion. It was very satisfying.


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## SpaceBus (Sep 14, 2021)

Diabel said:


> It was a busy weekend and I did not get a chance to do as many passes as I wished. Last week stopped by a Stihl dealer and I picked up a second  30* 84 link chain. It was 24.00 and a 10* they wanted 44.00.
> On Monday morning before heading back to town I had a bit of time and instead of swapping the chain I decided  to sharpen the one that is already on the mill. When bucking rounds you can easily tell the condition of your chain by looking at the chips, not so when milling. I had a feeling the chain was dull since the last pass with it was painfully slow. Using my little gizmo as suggested by @SpaceBus here, i was done within 10min without taking the saw off the mill. I did three passes in a 10’ log in a nice and timely fashion. It was very satisfying.


Chain sharpness is even more important for milling. That might explain your heat/oiling issues.


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## Diabel (Sep 14, 2021)

Those 6x6” 10’ posts are heavy!! I think I will need help to stand them up and brace them correctly. Also, my shed will be 10x20 with 2’ overhang on the sides and front. I would like to do a 3’ over hang at the back. My longest log in 12’ so I have a problem. My guy did drop couple of big hemlocks to the side of a hill. Did not bother cutting them down to 10’ - 12’ lengths. They are just there. Access is not easy and they are on the significant downhill slope. I can (with difficulty) cut my 15’ length and slab them to 2” thickness and push them downhill to my milling area. Then somehow cut the live edge and get my 2x6s. 
The other option would be to splice the rafters but not sure that would work.


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## Diabel (Sep 14, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> Chain sharpness is even more important for milling. That might explain your heat/oiling issues.


It looks like 3/4 passes and I need to sharpen. All good.


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## SpaceBus (Sep 14, 2021)

Diabel said:


> It looks like 3/4 passes and I need to sharpen. All good.


You will get better at it. The Granberg jig works pretty well, but it has some flaws. One such "flaw" is that the flex in the rod/jig will let you polish cutters instead of taking material away, especially if you have the Granberg wax lube. So far I haven't mastered my new Tecomec Super Jolly sharpening rig, but I was getting sharper chains with the Granberg setup.


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## Nealm66 (Sep 14, 2021)

Diabel said:


> Those 6x6” 10’ posts are heavy!! I think I will need help to stand them up and brace them correctly. Also, my shed will be 10x20 with 2’ overhang on the sides and front. I would like to do a 3’ over hang at the back. My longest log in 12’ so I have a problem. My guy did drop couple of big hemlocks to the side of a hill. Did not bother cutting them down to 10’ - 12’ lengths. They are just there. Access is not easy and they are on the significant downhill slope. I can (with difficulty) cut my 15’ length and slab them to 2” thickness and push them downhill to my milling area. Then somehow cut the live edge and get my 2x6s.
> The other option would be to splice the rafters but not sure that would work.


If it’s possible, I’d roll it to the side with a pv and mill like normal. Those live edge are going to suck trying to move.


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## SpaceBus (Sep 14, 2021)

I get worn out moving rough cut 4x4's! This spring I had a 6x6 Tamarack cant that I was sure would break my back.


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## Diabel (Sep 14, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> If it’s possible, I’d roll it to the side with a pv and mill like normal. Those live edge are going to suck trying to move.


Yeah, that would be best


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## EbS-P (Sep 20, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> If it’s possible, I’d roll it to the side with a pv and mill like normal. Those live edge are going to suck trying to move.


I found I could lay an appliance dolly down flat scoot the slab onto it. Then strap it to the dolly.  I could by melyself move an 11’x32”x 1.25” slab.


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## Diabel (Sep 20, 2021)

This is what I would have to tackle in order to get 15’ 2x6” for rafters.


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## Diabel (Sep 20, 2021)

Diabel said:


> This is what I would have to tackle in order to get 15’ 2x6” for rafters.


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## EbS-P (Sep 20, 2021)

Diabel said:


> View attachment 282105


Uhhhggg


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## Nealm66 (Sep 20, 2021)

Any safe way to yard them whole off the hill?


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## Diabel (Sep 20, 2021)

Excavator, and they will be filthy with rocks etc


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## Diabel (Sep 20, 2021)

Diabel said:


> Excavator, and they will be filthy with rocks etc


And of course it would be cheaper to buy the rafters than to pay the excavator guy.


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## Nealm66 (Sep 20, 2021)

Well, you’re going to earn them for sure. Dang, I shouldn’t say anything but I probably would have used those limby cuts for the support beams and kept my clears for the rafters but that’s just me. I’d consider doing 2x8”’s if it’s much of a span . Be careful on those and take your time


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## Diabel (Sep 20, 2021)

Am I really out off base thinking that I could mill my 12’ rafters from the logs that I have readily available. Then mill some 5’ 2x6” s and screw/bolt/nail them together to get my 15’ lengths and get my 3’ back overhang. I can also brace it at the ends and middle.


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## Diabel (Sep 20, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> Well, you’re going to earn them for sure. Dang, I shouldn’t say anything but I probably would have used those limby cuts for the support beams and kept my clears for the rafters but that’s just me. I’d consider doing 2x8”’s if it’s much of a span . Be careful on those and take your time


The shed is to be 20x10. One 10x10 bay for wood, and one 10x10 for storage. 6posts.


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## Nealm66 (Sep 20, 2021)

Anything is possible but over time where you try to connect them will be your weak link. I would mill the 12’ 2x6 and then frame my overhang with some cheap 2x4’s


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## Nealm66 (Sep 20, 2021)

Those logs on the hill, just 6 “ slab them and pull the slabs down and finish might be an option. They’ll still be good for support beams. Use the limbs and make a skid road and they should pull easy. I don’t know, just trying to help. Wish I was closer


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## Diabel (Sep 20, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> Those logs on the hill, just 6 “ slab them and pull the slabs down and finish might be an option. They’ll still be good for support beams. Use the limbs and make a skid road and they should pull easy. I don’t know, just trying to help. Wish I was closer


All good ideas.


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## Diabel (Sep 20, 2021)

Couple of more pics. 4 posts ready. I needed to slap together some shelves in the storage room, needed 4 9’ boards. One of the end pieces had enough meat on it to cut 4 1x3”s. I finished it on a table saw. I was expecting the table saw to struggle, it ripped through them with ease. Not the straightest but will do. As @Nealm66 mentioned sometime ago, ladder will sag in the middle if not braced making the initial cut bowed. Will try to brace correctly on my next log. Neighbor has fiberglass ladder which I might try. The 660 works much better with the 25” bar. I sharpen every 3/4 passes and it actually works well. Definitely not picnic but satisfying.

Just realized, my ladder section in 14’ and I need 15’ boards!! Crap.


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## Nealm66 (Sep 20, 2021)

Diabel said:


> Couple of more pics. 4 posts ready. I needed to slap together some shelves in the storage room, needed 4 9’ boards. One of the end pieces had enough meat on it to cut 4 1x3”s. I finished it on a table saw. I was expecting the table saw to struggle, it ripped through them with ease. Not the straightest but will do. As @Nealm66 mentioned sometime ago, ladder will sag in the middle if not braced making the initial cut bowed. Will try to brace correctly on my next log. Neighbor has fiberglass ladder which I might try. The 660 works much better with the 25” bar. I sharpen every 3/4 passes and it actually works well. Definitely not picnic but satisfying.
> 
> Just realized, my ladder section in 14’ and I need 15’ boards!! Crap.
> 
> ...


Lol, you’re definitely learning the same way I did. I try to do everything the hard way multiple times so that when I finally figure it out , even if it’s still hard, it seams easy ha ha!!


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## Nealm66 (Sep 20, 2021)

Those look pretty good. After you get the first slab off, tack some 1x3’s in the middle to support your ladder sag and slide it to stretch for longer lengths. You can do this also to make first cut that’s longer than your ladder


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## Nealm66 (Sep 20, 2021)

I’ll try to draw a pic


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## EbS-P (Sep 20, 2021)

Diabel said:


> Just realized, my ladder section in 14’ and I need 15’ boards!! Crap.


Or that could be the solution. Shorter is lighter.


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## Nealm66 (Sep 20, 2021)

Here


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## Nealm66 (Sep 20, 2021)

And after. Do this every cut for perfect boards


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## Nealm66 (Sep 20, 2021)

On the raw log, just working the saw back and forth to make a flat, little at a time till it takes the sag out but doesn’t lift it. Doesn’t have to be perfect as the next cut will true it up


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## Nealm66 (Sep 20, 2021)

Keep sliding the ladder forward making it go past the log when you finish to keep from dove tailing ( porpoise)


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## Nealm66 (Sep 20, 2021)

Like this


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## Nealm66 (Sep 20, 2021)

Yes, I failed art class


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## Diabel (Sep 20, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> Like this
> 
> View attachment 282114


I get it. Makes sense. Will try this


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## Nealm66 (Sep 20, 2021)

You can zip out some 2x4’s really quick to frame the overhang. Just cut 4” cants and drop down 2”. The knotty stuff on the hill would be perfect


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## Nealm66 (Sep 20, 2021)

Use the same technique only tack all the cants together tight, true the top using raw log technique


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## Nealm66 (Sep 20, 2021)

You will see why I like to mill on some 4x4’s and why the metal studs work so nice( you just set them on the flat, don’t need supports and rungs don’t get in the way on raw log


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## Nealm66 (Sep 20, 2021)

Wife bought a cnc router/laser and guess who gets to figure it out for her : (


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## Diabel (Oct 23, 2021)

Finally got back to milling today. Milled one log some time ago and then other priorities took over…..
Well, I set everything up nicely and timely! The first pass went very well and relatively quick. It still took a full talk of gas (which I am not sure that it is normal). Set up everything for the second pass……..and the saw just would not start. I pulled, I pulled until I smelt gas, flooded. When I pulled the sound coming from the saw was different “screechy” sounding. I let it sit fir 1h. Went back chocked it, pulled, it burped (as it should before switching to non choke), then no go pull, pull, pull and nothing until I smell gas.

Any ideas. I am not very inclined when it comes to small engines btw.


----------



## SpaceBus (Oct 23, 2021)

Pull the muffler off and take a look at the piston and cylinder. Post some pics if you can.


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## Diabel (Oct 23, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> Pull the muffler off and take a look at the piston and cylinder. Post some pics if you can.


Yeah, when pulling it does not sound normal.
I am hoping not to see what you are inclining. This would mean a 5h saw this 660 hahah!

Issue is I leave tomorrow morning for the city. Then as of next weekend I need to travel for a week. I wanted to get this second log done before the white stuff flies….


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## EbS-P (Oct 23, 2021)

Diabel said:


> Finally got back to milling today. Milled one log some time ago and then other priorities took over…..
> Well, I set everything up nicely and timely! The first pass went very well and relatively quick. It still took a full talk of gas (which I am not sure that it is normal). Set up everything for the second pass……..and the saw just would not start. I pulled, I pulled until I smelt gas, flooded. When I pulled the sound coming from the saw was different “screechy” sounding. I let it sit fir 1h. Went back chocked it, pulled, it burped (as it should before switching to non choke), then no go pull, pull, pull and nothing until I smell gas.
> 
> Any ideas. I am not very inclined when it comes to small engines btw.


Pull muffler look for scoring 

No start diagnosis. 
Pull the plug. See if it’s rich or not.   Then put the plug back and make sure plug wire and metal spring that secures it to the plug look ok and make sure wire is seated on the plug.    I thought it was really easy to flood mine when I first got it.   As it would not start then I realized that the choke fast idle run stop lever only goes to full choke with fast idle with the throttle wide open.  Pull trigger then set lever.  But you had yours starting fine up to the last try.   

Screeching noise hmm.   I don’t know what to say.

Take chain cover off and check clutch and break anything loose?  Any thing self clearancing.  Same with the recoil cover.   I’d hate it to be main bearings. Hopefully it’s something simple.


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## SpaceBus (Oct 23, 2021)

Screeching can also be poor spark timing, I think. The coil could have gotten too hot, it's a weak spot on every Husky saw I own.


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## Diabel (Oct 23, 2021)

Cylinder looks ok, few tiny marks. But maybe that is not ok. Not sure if you can see them in the pics. J can take more pics


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## Diabel (Oct 23, 2021)

EbS-P said:


> Pull muffler look for scoring
> 
> No start diagnosis.
> Pull the plug. See if it’s rich or not.   Then put the plug back and make sure plug wire and metal spring that secures it to the plug look ok and make sure wire is seated on the plug.    I thought it was really easy to flood mine when I first got it.   As it would not start then I realized that the choke fast idle run stop lever only goes to full choke with fast idle with the throttle wide open.  Pull trigger then set lever.  But you had yours starting fine up to the last try.
> ...


Thank you.
I made the last mix maybe a tad richer worrying about the Chinese cylinder. The saw did not smoke at all


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## Nealm66 (Oct 23, 2021)

I’m wondering if the screeching is the clutch. Those internal clutch housings aren’t great for milling and I doubt they used the very best components. Maybe it got hot and fried the coil. Hopefully it’s minor


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## Diabel (Oct 23, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> I’m wondering if the screeching is the clutch. Those internal clutch housings aren’t great for milling and I doubt they used the very best components. Maybe it got hot and fried the coil. Hopefully it’s minor


Hm
If that is that is the case, do I replace it with stihl coil? 
I will check the plug and on… first


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## Nealm66 (Oct 23, 2021)

Pull the plug and hold it with a pair of pliers against the jug and give it a pull and look for spark. I have no idea if a stihl coil would work but I’m sure there’s something about it online. If it does turn out to be the clutch, you will want to give it a rest as your milling every so often to cool. Probably a good idea anyways with any saw


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## Nealm66 (Oct 23, 2021)

Shouldn’t be burning a tank per cut on those size logs. How’s you’re chain cutting


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## Diabel (Oct 23, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> Shouldn’t be burning a tank per cut on those size logs. How’s you’re chain cutting


Hm
I have no comps. It takes bout 10 min to go through 12’ log (with shim stops).


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## Diabel (Oct 23, 2021)

Maybe 15min


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## Nealm66 (Oct 23, 2021)

Ok, ya, that’s a long time. The comp chains won’t help. It’s the round file chain. Well, just have to back off and let it cool more often. Those size logs at 12’ take me about 3 -5 minutes or so with the 880. That’s with stopping and letting cool here and there. The clutch on my 385 is crap and I only use it for the cants and still have to stop and let it cool. My 395 did really good but the coil kept getting hot


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## EbS-P (Oct 24, 2021)

Diabel said:


> Hm
> I have no comps. It takes bout 10 min to go through 12’ log (with shim stops).


That’s about what it for me.  It takes two tanks to get through an 11’ by 33” slab with a sharp chain in soft poplar.


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## Diabel (Oct 24, 2021)

I think the cylinder looks fine. Will quickly look at the spark plug this morning before heading back to the city.


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## Diabel (Oct 24, 2021)

I always thought that symptoms of coil issue is when a warm saw will not start. Cold saw will


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## SpaceBus (Oct 24, 2021)

Full comp is fine. It takes me less than five minutes to run a pass on a log that size, but I have very, very sharp chains, like cut your fingers handling it sharp. I run full comp round ground chain because it's easier to sharpen and stays sharp longer in milling situations. After seeing the piston and cylinder I am leaning towards your ignition coil and clutch. Could also be flywheel contact with something, and that would make it hard to run.


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## Diabel (Oct 24, 2021)

I will take the saw to town with me. Will look at the plug etc. How can I tell the ignition coil is bad?
I was not expecting much from this saw but 5h of run time…..


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## Nealm66 (Oct 24, 2021)

You can check the coil by pulling the plug, leaving it connected and hold it against your jug while you give the starter rope a pull and look for spark. Use pliers to hold the spark plug or it will zap the shiat out of you if things are good. Just trust me on this one


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## Diabel (Oct 24, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> You can check the coil by pulling the plug, leaving it connected and hold it against your jug while you give the starter rope a pull and look for spark. Use pliers to hold the spark plug or it will zap the shiat out of you if things are good. Just trust me on this one


That is what I thought. Just wanted to make sure.
Thanks


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## Nealm66 (Oct 24, 2021)

EbS-P said:


> That’s about what it for me.  It takes two tanks to get through an 11’ by 33” slab with a sharp chain in soft poplar





EbS-P said:


> That’s about what it for me.  It takes two tanks to get through an 11’ by 33” slab with a sharp chain in soft poplar.


How’s your saw doing? Hemlock around here is pretty soft and rips about the same as poplar without the smell ( ha ha, my attempt at a funny)


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## SpaceBus (Oct 24, 2021)

Diabel said:


> I will take the saw to town with me. Will look at the plug etc. How can I tell the ignition coil is bad?
> I was not expecting much from this saw but 5h of run time…..


When my coil went bad I could get barely an idle, and then just a few barks, then no start at all. It went bad milling, back when I hadn't figured out the handle issue. Running a dull chain will also make things hotter, which is hard on the coil. I narrowed down possible issues before trying to replace the coil, they seem to run around $100 or so. I've also heard the coils used the Chinese saws are terrible, and that's why I'm thinking yours bit the dust. 















Pun intended!


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## SpaceBus (Oct 24, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> You can check the coil by pulling the plug, leaving it connected and hold it against your jug while you give the starter rope a pull and look for spark. Use pliers to hold the spark plug or it will zap the shiat out of you if things are good. Just trust me on this one


Mine still sparked when tested in this manner, but not strong enough to run the saw.


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## Diabel (Oct 24, 2021)

If it is the coil. Then the ms660 will be a direct fit. Or do I get something from amazon for g660?


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## SpaceBus (Oct 24, 2021)

Diabel said:


> If it is the coil. Then the ms660 will be a direct fit. Or do I get something from amazon for g660?


Get the Stihl coil, it's going to run a bit more, but worth it. I would also tune your saw to run a bit more rich and run 40:1 fuel mix. Heat kills those coils.


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## Diabel (Oct 24, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> Get the Stihl coil, it's going to run a bit more, but worth it. I would also tune your saw to run a bit more rich and run 40:1 fuel mix. Heat kills those coils.


I am running 40:1 but did not tune anything.


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## EbS-P (Oct 24, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> How’s your saw doing? Hemlock around here is pretty soft and rips about the same as poplar without the smell ( ha ha, my attempt at a funny)


Good. Last time out I turned it down  from factory settings of 12800 to 12200. Cuts are getting wider now.   Definitely narrowed my power band and stalled easier but I added a wench with paracord so the stretch helps keep feed rate more consistent and stalls less. 
  I realized I messed up my chain tensioner when I ran it out of travel.   

Took muffler off to inspect and didn’t get bolts back in tight enough.   one cut was enough to break the mounting hole off.  Trigger is sticking some now.  Unnerving on a 90cc saw. 

Let’s see what else. Won’t oil my 36” hard nose. needs the high output oiler. Have not gone down that path yet.  I don’t like the air cleaner.  I’m sure I’ve sucked in some sawdust.    

Its still running well.  Starts every time and has never let me down.


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## Nealm66 (Oct 24, 2021)

Ya, even the stihl brand stock filters are pure crap. About the best a guy can do is a cone filter and those get in the way and couldn’t run them on the coast like forks Washington cus of the massive rain amounts. My chains feed pretty good but about 1 pass and I’m pushing on a decent size live edge like your cutting. Need to run down and get a roll of Oregon 404 and see how it does compared to stihl. Definitely narrower and softer chain. Always bored better than stihl so we’ll see. Wife will shoot me if I bring anymore boards into the garage ha ha so will have to see if the neighbors got anything


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## EbS-P (Oct 24, 2021)

Diabel said:


> I am running 40:1 but did not tune anything.


I got an induction tach before I messed with the tuning.  That was the only way I felt comfortable messing with it. My first try at tuning  my Ryobi and without the tach and I just couldn’t tell how high was too high.  Didn’t want to make a mistake on my milling saw.  

I ran the  first 20L at 25:1.  I’m running 32:1 now.  I personally don’t think that mix ratio is as important as heat management.  I knew from the beginning that I was going to be running  right at the maximum capability of the saw.  I wanted to give it every chance I could to keep it alive. 

It’s worked well.  no real carbon build up.  I think it’s harder to build up when it’s decently tuned and run at WOT for 10 minutes straight at a time.


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## SpaceBus (Oct 24, 2021)

EbS-P said:


> I got an induction tach before I messed with the tuning.  That was the only way I felt comfortable messing with it. My first try at tuning  my Ryobi and without the tach and I just couldn’t tell how high was too high.  Didn’t want to make a mistake on my milling saw.
> 
> I ran the  first 20L at 25:1.  I’m running 32:1 now.  I personally don’t think that mix ratio is as important as heat management.  I knew from the beginning that I was going to be running  right at the maximum capability of the saw.  I wanted to give it every chance I could to keep it alive.
> 
> It’s worked well.  no real carbon build up.  I think it’s harder to build up when it’s decently tuned and run at WOT for 10 minutes straight at a time.



Ouch, can that hole be fixed? I broke off a few flywheel cover bolts because they kept backing out and I got a bit overzealous. I increased fuel mixture on my saw until it started "four stroking" after exiting the wood on a cut. I tried an induction tach, but mine was way too slow and I still killed a different saw tuning too lean with it. Tuning by ear seems to be working better for me, when usually it does not.


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## EbS-P (Oct 24, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> Ouch, can that hole be fixed? I broke off a few flywheel cover bolts because they kept backing out and I got a bit overzealous. I increased fuel mixture on my saw until it started "four stroking" after exiting the wood on a cut. I tried an induction tach, but mine was way too slow and I still killed a different saw tuning too lean with it. Tuning by ear seems to be working better for me, when usually it does not.


Someone could with a tig welder but the gasket was shot and I was missing an internal muffler bolt from the factory.  New muffler gasket and bolts, 18$ to my door.


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## SpaceBus (Oct 24, 2021)

EbS-P said:


> Someone could with a tig welder but the gasket was shot and I was missing an internal muffler bolt from the factory.  New muffler gasket and bolts, 18$ to my door.


Oh, I thought you broke the bolt hole in the cylinder head. That's not so bad.


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## Diabel (Dec 26, 2021)

Merry Christmas everyone! Finally, today I had a day of complete f… around!! Took the 660 outside and pulled the rope three times, it burped and started as if nothing happened back in October! So is it the coil then? Cold runs, hot it does not. I remember back in oct when the saw was warm and i pulled the cord there was hardly any resistance. Today right away on the first pull you could feel the piston resisting. Coil looks like an easy replacement job. 
I will also need help with saw tuning i think. I remember back in grade 4, my Mom signed me up for music lessons……after two sessions the music teacher said to me…..stick to sports boy…..


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## SpaceBus (Dec 26, 2021)

Diabel said:


> Merry Christmas everyone! Finally, today I had a day of complete f… around!! Took the 660 outside and pulled the rope three times, it burped and started as if nothing happened back in October! So is it the coil then? Cold runs, hot it does not. I remember back in oct when the saw was warm and i pulled the cord there was hardly any resistance. Today right away on the first pull you could feel the piston resisting. Coil looks like an easy replacement job.
> I will also need help with saw tuning i think. I remember back in grade 4, my Mom signed me up for music lessons……after two sessions the music teacher said to me…..stick to sports boy…..



I watched a few different videos to get an understanding of what to listen for. Likely the coil got coated in sawdust/oil and overheated, it happened to me with the original 395xp coil. When I'm milling for long periods I like to take my cordless compressor out and blow out the clutch cover after every log.


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## Diabel (Dec 26, 2021)

I think before I get milling again in the spring, I will need to learn to tune the saw, sharpen the chains better (definitely not getting 3-5 min per pass) and take breaks while in the pass.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 26, 2021)

Merry Christmas! Don’t wait too long getting that hemlock milled.


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## Diabel (Dec 26, 2021)

Nealm66 said:


> Merry Christmas! Don’t wait too long getting that hemlock milled.


Eastern hemlock seems to do well here in log form, off the ground.


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## SpaceBus (Dec 26, 2021)

Diabel said:


> Eastern hemlock seems to do well here in log form, off the ground.


In the context of firewood, sure. I find older drier logs more difficult to mill than freshly cut trees.


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## EbS-P (Dec 26, 2021)

Diabel said:


> I think before I get milling again in the spring, I will need to learn to tune the saw, sharpen the chains better (definitely not getting 3-5 min per pass) and take breaks while in the pass.


I got a tach to tune mine.  From factory it was running 12800-900 RPM.  I took it down to 12400.  Doesn’t run very good now with 28” full skip in small diameter just keeps 4 stroking.  Noticeable drop in power. But it may have been my larger width of cut.  
I didn’t tune it in the milling cut but on the bench with a 36” bar.   In the milling cut it cleans right up but now my power band is pretty narrow and it’s almost a fine line between in the wood and cutting nice and stalling.  There are so many variables that it’s hard to compare one tune to another when a single cut is about 1/2 tank or more (two for me) and the chain sharpness and width of cut change with each pass.  

I sharpened my 36” freehand.  Not great results.  File n joint sharpener on my 52” was ok.  I don’t think I have gone back to my original 52” factory milling chain since I sharpened it.  My factory out of the box archer full skip semi chisel off the roll worked but left a ruff cut and was grabby.  File b joint it back to 10 10 degrees and a depth gauge across the rakers and it was very nice.  
Hand crank winch is a game changer with stretchy paracord or a bungee. You can effortlessly keep the rpm more stable and cuts look nicer.


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## Diabel (Dec 26, 2021)

I am determined and willing to learn.  This shed will go up.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 27, 2021)

I fought that problem with my 395. Super bummer as it’s like the perfect saw for most of my milling but every time I turned around someone was walking up with questions and I’d fight getting it started so I sold it. The 385 doesn’t have the issue but the clutch gives up if I push it and don’t let it idle a few times during a cut. The 880 chugs along with no issues and I run it down to the 36” bar and use the 385 and the 372 for smaller. I wouldn’t think a stihl 66 would have the issue considering we used it in old growth fir up to 8-9’ and it chugged along ok up to a 42 although it really stopped pulling good after 32”. Maybe the China coil is crap or the fins aren’t drawing good


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## SpaceBus (Dec 27, 2021)

My 395 starts easily since I replaced the coil. Mine was built in Brazil, and I suspect the coils used might not be the good ones from the 395's built in Sweden.


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## Diabel (Dec 27, 2021)

It is hard to explain, the saw worked great. Turned it off to refuel, pulled the starter rope and there was no piston resistance at all. It felt like there was something seriously broken, it sounded “harsh”. Left it for few hours, tried starting it, it burped ran for 5 seconds and stopped. Then when pulling the starter rope felt harsh again. Yesterday, it started beautiful  after couple of pulls and idled for 3/4min. I turned it off as I had to go. Will start it again today and let it run longer.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 27, 2021)

Is there a compression release on those?


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## Diabel (Dec 27, 2021)

Yes


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## Diabel (Dec 27, 2021)

And also, that decompression button felt rough to depress


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## Nealm66 (Dec 27, 2021)

Ya, any decent saw shop should have the plug for that if they do mods


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## salecker (Dec 27, 2021)

Diabel said:


> And also, that decompression button felt rough to depress


is it an china decomp?
those have fallen apart and taken the top ends out on the kit saws


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## Diabel (Dec 27, 2021)

salecker said:


> is it an china decomp?
> those have fallen apart and taken the top ends out on the kit saws


Yes it is the China decomp. The whole saw is Chinese G660. You mean the decomp button can cause the saw to fail?


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## Nealm66 (Dec 27, 2021)

Looks like Amazon has them for $9. I’d jerk that thing out of there


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## Nealm66 (Dec 27, 2021)

Hard to say what it is for sure being a cheap setup but every modded saw I’ve ever owned, husky or stihl has them removed


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## Diabel (Dec 27, 2021)

Are you saying, replace the decomp valve with a plug. It sure will bw harder to pull, but that is ok if it is a common problem.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 27, 2021)

Yes. Not sure if it’s your problem. Surprised your able to get yours to work very well. I still have the one on my 880 but if I try to use it, it pops closed and I just end up not using it. It’s a pig to start when is cold. I need to jerk it out and get a plug


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## Diabel (Dec 27, 2021)

Are you saying all decomp valves are bad? My 360 has one and even my brand new 261 has one (that one I am not sure why).


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## Nealm66 (Dec 27, 2021)

I’m not saying they are all bad but if the guys that hot rod them pull them out then so do I. Especially since I can’t seem to get the hang of using them. It sounds like the one you have has caused problems so it might be worth the 10$ to try although I get the easier starting thing. Ive had hot rodded  saws that feel like the motors seized. I have them warmed up before I have them sent up a tree for sure


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## SpaceBus (Dec 27, 2021)

Why are we discussing the decomp valve? Edit: I see now. 

Instead of plugging the decomp port just try a new Stihl decomp valve. I wouldn't run a big bore saw without it.


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## Diabel (Dec 27, 2021)

Well, I am all ears. Trying to understand whatever info comes from members. We/I just learned that perhaps the decomp valve is useless and maybe destructive on Chinese saws. All good here


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## SpaceBus (Dec 27, 2021)

Diabel said:


> Well, I am all ears. Trying to understand whatever info comes from members. We/I just learned that perhaps the decomp valve is useless and maybe destructive on Chinese saws. All good here


Take another peek at the cylinder if you are worried. There really is no replacement for OEM parts on these big bore saws. A Stihl decomp valve should set you straight if that is the issue. Could also look at the cylinder from there instead of pulling the muffler.


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## EbS-P (Dec 27, 2021)

Diabel said:


> Are you saying, replace the decomp valve with a plug. It sure will bw harder to pull, but that is ok if it is a common problem.


I’m not sure I’m man enough to start mine with no decomp.  Suggestion is to replace with stihl OEM.


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## EbS-P (Dec 27, 2021)

Have you checked that your plug wire  boot is tight? Mine wasn’t but that would not explain easy to pull over.  Plug is tight?


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## Diabel (Dec 27, 2021)

EbS-P said:


> Have you checked that your plug wire  boot is tight? Mine wasn’t but that would not explain easy to pull over.  Plug is tight?


Thank you all for being patient with me. The easy pull is what stumps me…when warm. Ok pull with resistance when cold.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 27, 2021)

It could very well  be a faulty compression release. Not making seal when it gets hot. Why I brought it up.  I can’t think of anything else that would explain maybe an oem part would do the trick and be worth it to try for you and maybe leave it running when it’s really hot and see if it’s loosing air through it to diagnose.


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## salecker (Dec 28, 2021)

Yes the decomp valve in the chin_ kits fail,the plastic falls off and the valve gets sucked into the cylinder.
Once it gets sucked in the piston and cylinder suffer damage.
Get one for a Husky 395 if you are having trouble starting it,they have the biggest opening.If starting it isn't an issue replace it with a Stihl one.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 28, 2021)

You might even find one at a saw shop that does mods that they pulled


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## Diabel (Dec 28, 2021)

I will get one on amazon. 
Thank you


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## Diabel (Dec 31, 2021)

Interesting observation. If I leave the saw outside for extended period of time (25/35f for the past few days), the saw will burp on second pull and start on third pull. If I bring the saw inside for say overnight and try starting it in the morning….forget it. Six seven pulls and nothing and at that point i smell gas. I will check for spark.

Also, if i try to start the saw without pressing the decomp button….oh my it is hard to pull, almost impossible. I will replace the decomp with a a plug but my it will be tough to pull.


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## EbS-P (Dec 31, 2021)

After being inside is the compression similar to cold compression?


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## Diabel (Dec 31, 2021)

EbS-P said:


> After being inside is the compression similar to cold compression?


I do not have a way to test the compression.


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## SpaceBus (Dec 31, 2021)

I once tried to start my 395xp without pressing the decomp valve, never again. Replace your decomp valve with a known good Stihl part if you think it could be contributing to problems. It's an easy thing to do.


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## SpaceBus (Dec 31, 2021)

Diabel said:


> I do not have a way to test the compression.


Do you have an Autozone or O'Reilly nearby? They both loan/rent tools and should have a compression checker.


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## Diabel (Dec 31, 2021)

I can definitely start my other saws without pressing decomp. But this one oh my! Replacing the decomp with a Stihl decomp sounds like a good idea. My arm will thank me for sure.


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## Diabel (Dec 31, 2021)

SpaceBus said:


> Do you have an Autozone or O'Reilly nearby? They both loan/rent tools and should have a compression checker.


Autozone is near me.


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## salecker (Dec 31, 2021)

The decomp for a husky 395 has a bigger opening then the Stihl ones.
That is the one most will put on a high compression ported saw.


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## brenndatomu (Dec 31, 2021)

Diabel said:


> It is hard to explain, the saw worked great. Turned it off to refuel, pulled the starter rope and there was no piston resistance at all. It felt like there was something seriously broken, it sounded “harsh”. Left it for few hours, tried starting it, it burped ran for 5 seconds and stopped. Then when pulling the starter rope felt harsh again. Yesterday, it started beautiful  after couple of pulls and idled for 3/4min. I turned it off as I had to go. Will start it again today and let it run longer.


Is your coil loose...or adjusted too tight to the flywheel?
It does sound like your coil is failing though...my MS290 would run for 3-5 minutes, then quit...no fire until cooled off again. I bought a used Stihl OEM coil rather than risk it on an aftermarket coil.


Diabel said:


> I will get one on amazon.
> Thank you


You mean the decomp, or coil? I'd buy OEM on both...the chinese decomps are not reliable and when they fail it makes a nice hole in your piston...maybe bent rod too...not worth it.
I can start my Farmertec kit MS660 without the decomp, but it hurts if you don't do it right...and tends to break pull start cords...


----------



## Diabel (Dec 31, 2021)

brenndatomu said:


> Is your coil loose...or adjusted too tight to the flywheel?
> It does sound like your coil is failing though...my MS290 would run for 3-5 minutes, then quit...no fire until cooled off again. I bought a used Stihl OEM coil rather than risk it on an aftermarket coil.
> 
> You mean the decomp, or coil? I'd buy OEM on both...the chinese decomps are not reliable and when they fail it makes a nice hole in your piston...maybe bent rod too...not worth it.
> I can start my Farmertec kit MS660 without the decomp, but it hurts if you don't do it right...and tends to break pull start cords...


From Amazon I was going to get the plug. But you guys convinced me to get the oem decomp and while I am at the dealer I will pick up the oem coil for the 660. I think I would figure our how to start it without the decomp but as you said the pull rope is a weak point on these saws and pulling it hard would for sure shorten its life.


----------



## Nealm66 (May 18, 2022)

Getting ready to help a friend mill some logs into cants that are too big for his bandsaw


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## Nealm66 (May 18, 2022)

I’ll try to take some pictures


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## EbS-P (May 18, 2022)

Nealm66 said:


> Getting ready to help a friend mill some logs into cants that are too big for his bandsaw
> 
> View attachment 295555


Is that a 72” with regular skip chain?


----------



## Sean McGillicuddy (May 18, 2022)




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## EbS-P (May 18, 2022)

Diabel said:


> From Amazon I was going to get the plug. But you guys convinced me to get the oem decomp and while I am at the dealer I will pick up the oem coil for the 660. I think I would figure our how to start it without the decomp but as you said the pull rope is a weak point on these saws and pulling it hard would for sure shorten its life.


Since there has been some recent posts. Anything to report back?


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## Nealm66 (May 18, 2022)

EbS-P said:


> Is that a 72” with regular skip chain?


Full skip, chisel. I use a chisel bit grinder. Cut’s good. Yes, 72


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## Diabel (May 18, 2022)

EbS-P said:


> Since there has been some recent posts. Anything to report back?


Nothing to report. I have not touched any of my saws for close to a year. I have been so swamped with other projects……
This coming weekend (weather permitting) I plan to do some property clean up so the 261 will see some action.


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## SpaceBus (May 18, 2022)

I've milled eight or so tiny logs this year, I'll have to take some pics and make a thread for my current stash. Chain starting to get dull, so I can show what it looks like out of the box, fresh, and starting to dull (but I'll probably just keep on cutting for a while). All in all I would guess about 200 bdft of 4x4's and a few 2x6's. Plus some straight edge slabs I'm going to use for my chicken coop extension/spring green house.


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## Nealm66 (May 23, 2022)

Here’s a quick couple pics I took yesterday. What a beautiful day. Wished I would have remembered a hat though


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## SpaceBus (May 24, 2022)

First pic is a dull chain on tamarack, second pic is a sharpened chain with fir log, and the third pic is a brand new chain with fir.


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## Nealm66 (May 24, 2022)

That tamarack looks cool


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## Nealm66 (May 24, 2022)

Like for an exposed beam if a guy could get away with it would look sweet


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## SpaceBus (May 24, 2022)

Nealm66 said:


> Like for an exposed beam if a guy could get away with it would look sweet


It's my favorite so far, but I've only milled spruce, fir, and tamarack. It's significantly harder than the spruce, which is noticeably harder than the fir. My chain only got dull because I had to drag some of the logs through the mud to get them to the mill. Most of this is going to be used on a green house made of mostly rough cut 4x4's. I'm saving the tamarack for the horizontal beams since it's the strongest in deflection, and also looks cool. It's also rot resistant like cedar, but it rarely grows straight enough for more than a 2x4 or 4x4. Good for firewood too, pretty close to birch in density. A local told me the bark has "flint" in it, but I think he was trying to say there's a high mineral content in the bark. Which is not surprising since it typically grows in swampy/wet boggy clay areas. Honestly I try to leave tamaracks standing unless I have to build something where one is standing or it is dying/dead. We have several in the lowest point of our property and they look spectacular in the fall.


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## SpaceBus (May 24, 2022)

Some of the fir I mill has some really pale reds/pinks, and the standing dead stuff sometimes has some really nice fungus related figuring. I save fungus stained pieces for non-load bearing purposes. The reds seem totally random, and I've had fungus stained red fir as well.


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## Nealm66 (May 24, 2022)

I’ve cut some tamarack down but never ripped any of it. Mostly resi tree work around here but I cut some in Idaho for Columbia helicopters and I think I even cut some down in Arizona one summer for a logger in the kiabab when I was bored one week visiting my sister. Never knew it looked so good


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## Nealm66 (May 24, 2022)

Maybe it was Utah?


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## SpaceBus (May 25, 2022)

Nealm66 said:


> Maybe it was Utah?


Probably Utah. That might actually be a different species of Tamarack further out west, but I'm not sure. I never hear about anyone milling tamarack.


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## Diabel (Jun 7, 2022)

I was looking for something the other day. The blue beast reveled it self.😃. Took it out and it fired on a third pull (not fired for about a year). Let it idle,  reved it few times for about 5min. Shut it off and it started right up for the second time. Maybe it was not warm enough for the coil to act up. 

We had a major wind storm go though our area on May 21. I lost 15 trees. Lots of clean up. I might put the dogs back on the 660 and buck some 26” sugar maples with it. 

Will go back into milling in jul if the coil is ok.  Btw will pick up oem decomp valve today as I will be stopping by stihl dealer.


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## Nealm66 (Jun 8, 2022)

Helps to keep the rpm’s up when your milling or even sawing large material, to keep things a bit cooler. I had a 395 that worked just fine cutting timber but the coil would heat up on the mill and it never failed someone would want to stop me and ask questions and then it wouldn’t start so I got rid of it. My 385 doesn’t care much for milling either, more of a clutch problem. I’ve used my little 372 for finishing cants and it does really well


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## EbS-P (Jun 8, 2022)

I’m getting close to max capacity for a sustained cut.  Next couple slabs will be 38” at the butt end.   I richened it up last summer but it now runs right at the edge of stalling at the butt end.   Going to tune up a about 2-300 rpm and keep the chain sharp.  Still 100% China stock.


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## Nealm66 (Jun 8, 2022)

You must be in really good shape. I know well how heavy those slabs are. I know the 066 was a good saw. Not as balanced or smooth as a comparable husky but had the edge on power. Would have never switched away from stihl but after 15 years I just needed some change


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## EbS-P (Jun 8, 2022)

I’m a 40 y


Nealm66 said:


> You must be in really good shape. I know well how heavy those slabs are. I know the 066 was a good saw. Not as balanced or smooth as a comparable husky but had the edge on power. Would have never switched away from stihl but after 15 years I just needed some change


I’m a 40 year old professor. Haven’t seen the gym in years but try to stay fit.   The first few were only 1” thick. I’m going to try for a 2.5” table.  Won’t be able to carry that out.   Think smarter not harder.  Three people on one end and strap the other to an appliance dolly.  We might have a shot.  They are almost 11’ long.


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## Diabel (Jun 9, 2022)

Yesterday i replaced the decomp valve (as suggested here….just in case), put a 20” bar on it (the g660) and bucked about 8 big logs with it. Had the saw on and off multiple times. It started on the first or second pull every time. 

As mentioned above, it might be a completely different story when milling. Will not get to it until July.


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## SpaceBus (Jun 9, 2022)

Diabel said:


> Yesterday i replaced the decomp valve (as suggested here….just in case), put a 20” bar on it (the g660) and bucked about 8 big logs with it. Had the saw on and off multiple times. It started on the first or second pull every time.
> 
> As mentioned above, it might be a completely different story when milling. Will not get to it until July.


I'm glad the decomp valve worked out! No way am I starting a big bore saw without one.


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## Diabel (Jun 9, 2022)

SpaceBus said:


> I'm glad the decomp valve worked out! No way am I starting a big bore saw without one.


Yeah, putting in just a plug would not work with me well.


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## Diabel (Jun 9, 2022)

Interesting observation.  As I was bucking the logs yesterday, sometimes I would switch to the 261 (for smaller pieces). Going back and forth I could really notice the vibration level on the g660. Very noticeable compare to the 261


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## SpaceBus (Jun 9, 2022)

Diabel said:


> Interesting observation.  As I was bucking the logs yesterday, sometimes I would switch to the 261 (for smaller pieces). Going back and forth I could really notice the vibration level on the g660. Very noticeable compare to the 261


Another reason I like to use the smallest saw possible for the job.


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## Nealm66 (Jun 9, 2022)

The 66 mounts were never great. About 6 months and it was always time to either swap the top end or buy a new one. I got so I just bought a new one because the mounts were usually shot and the side cover was done. Couldn’t hardly give my old ones away because nobody wanted something so big for home use.


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## EbS-P (Jun 9, 2022)

Nope it’s not smooth.  I took my muffler off to inspect and thought I had everything tight. I did not re lock tite .   The bolts back out and I cracked the mounting holes in the muffler in a tank.  Oh and I found one internal bolt missing.


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## Diabel (Jun 9, 2022)

EbS-P said:


> Nope it’s not smooth.  I took my muffler off to inspect and thought I had everything tight. I did not re lock tite .   The bolts back out and I cracked the mounting holes in the muffler in a tank.  Oh and I found one internal bolt missing.


Good reminder!! Thanks 

When I last milled and the saw decided not to cooperate, I too looked at the piston. Did not re lock tite the muffler bolts.  Will take a look.  Vibration master that g660 is!! Put on the dogs for bucking the other day. Tightened the bolts very well. After few hours one of the dogs fell off😜


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## EbS-P (Jun 9, 2022)

Diabel said:


> Good reminder!! Thanks
> 
> When I last milled and the saw decided not to cooperate, I too looked at the piston. Did not re lock tite the muffler bolts.  Will take a look.  Vibration master that g660 is!! Put on the dogs for bucking the other day. Tightened the bolts very well. After few hours one of the dogs fell off😜


Mine too.  I forgot what I needed, but it was cheaper to buy a kit on Amazon with a new set of dogs.  Might have been bar nuts. Or a tensioner.  Or the chain plate. Come with the nut and or bolt I lost when mine came off.  I never put the dogs back on after the first cut on the mill.


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## SpaceBus (Jun 9, 2022)

It's just a big bore saw thing. Remember, these saws have engines large enough to require a license if it were mounted in a moped. My 395 likes to vibrate the flywheel cover screws loose. I got annoyed by it one day and over torqued two of them... the shanks are still in there and I just check on the two remaining screws every tank or so.


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## Nealm66 (Jun 9, 2022)

The 395 is way smoother that the 66. At least on the hands


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## Diabel (Jun 9, 2022)

It stopped raining this morning at one point. I figured, might as well go and finish bucking them logs😜. I had 2 (30”) sugar maple, 2 (25”~) yellow birch and 1 (17”) hemlock left to cut. Last night cleaned the saws, toped up the fluids, hand filed the chains (starting to dislike that Grenberg gizmo, takes too long to set up). 
Went at one of the sugar maples with the 660. It did a good job. I was happy with my hand filing…..maybe I am finally getting it! By the time i was done with it the tank was empty. I figured, maybe the 261 can handle the other logs (birch/hemlock). I must’ve done a great job on that chain! It destroyed that birch and hemlock in no time. And it only took 2/3 of one tank.

Again, well said….”use the smallest saw possible for any job”


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## Diabel (Jun 9, 2022)

Pics from yesterday. None today due to rain.


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Jun 10, 2022)

Last night cleaned the saws, toped up the fluids, hand filed the chains (starting to dislike that Grenberg gizmo, takes too long to set up).

That's why I like the 2in1 .. just start filing


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## SpaceBus (Jun 10, 2022)

Sean McGillicuddy said:


> Last night cleaned the saws, toped up the fluids, hand filed the chains (starting to dislike that Grenberg gizmo, takes too long to set up).
> 
> That's why I like the 2in1 .. just start filing


The 2 in 1 doesn't work for milling. The Granberg is going to give you a much more consistent cutter than the 2 in 1 as well, but to each their own. As you get better at using the Granberg it's pretty fast to set up. I started out free hand filing with a jig, like the 2 in 1, but a Husky version, and I'm never going back to files after getting a bench grinder.


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