# Best Oregon chain for Husqvarna 372XP



## John_M (Jan 12, 2010)

Will be having a load of logs as large as 22" diameter delivered within the month. Will probably also purchase a Husky 372XP w/20" bar to be used almost exclusively as a bucking saw for this "dirty" wood. This great saw is overkill for this purpose but I prefer some overkill to some underkill. I do not know how many teeth are on the drive sprocket on the 372XP. My only other saw is the Stihl MS250 which is also excellent for its intended purpose. 

Some questions: 1) Should I purchase the saw with a 24" bar instead of the 20"?; 2) What is the best Oregon chain to use for this wood considering its diameter and dirtiness?; 3) Which Husqvarna bar is best for this purpose considering the pitch and gauge of the chain and the compatability of bar length, gauge, nose sprocket and saw drive sprocket? 4) Any other advice which I may have forgotten to ask about. 

This is a lot of saw for me to handle even when wearing all the necessary PPE. However, I have a younger and stronger buddy who would love to buck these logs using my new saw, I hope.

I have already checked out the various saw candidates from Stihl and  Dolmar dealers and have settled on the 372XP as having the best combination of features, dealership support and proximity, etc. for me.

Best wishes, 

John_M


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## HittinSteel (Jan 12, 2010)

http://www.oregonchain.com/pro/products/chain/38pro_chain_main.htm

John, take a look at the Oregon link above. The LGX is Oregon's "full chisel" chain. This should be the fastest cutting chain in clean wood. For dirty wood consider the DP which is "semi chisel". This chain will keep an edge longer in tough cutting conditions. 

Also look at Bailey's website. They offer bar and chain combos. If I was cutting logs up to 22" I would stay with a 20" bar.

Your dealer should also be able to help you get the right chain for your needs. Make sure to tell them you want non-safety "semi chisel" chain. My guess is that saw would run 72 drive links but I can't say for sure.

Good luck and that is one heckuva a saw. If I were buying new, that would be my choice for firewood.


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## savageactor7 (Jan 12, 2010)

Because we drag trees through the mud (no rocks) we needed that kind of chain too. After trying out a few dealer recommendations settled on the 73LGX.


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## fyrwoodguy (Jan 12, 2010)

i'd go with the 24" .058 bar and 73 JGX oregon saw chain....it's skip chain....if you no like you can go back to 73 LGX


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## Jack33 (Jan 12, 2010)

I have 3 of these equipped with a 20", 24", and 28". I prefer the 24" because the saw is better balanced with that length. I'm also tall so it helps with bucking and leaning over. I run LGX on the 20 and 24 and JGX on the 28. Stihl chain is better but costs more. FYI Husqvarna chain is made by Oregon. Once you run this saw...you won't put it down and your buddy will be the one running the MS250.


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## John_M (Jan 12, 2010)

Thanks for the help, guys. When the time comes I will order the 372XP with standard Husqvarna 24", 3/8"pitch, .058 bar/chain combo. Will then order the matching 20" Oregon bar with 73 LGX chain and a 73 JGX full-skip chain for the 24" Husky bar. I'll double check this figure but I believe the 24" bar takes an 84 link 73 JGX chain. 

Spent much of today doing the background checking for this purchse. My closest dealer, a really nice guy, is about 15 minutes away but he has very limited knowledge about this saw and chain. He didn't have a 20" or 24" bar or the necessary chain in stock. However, he could get them "in a day or so". Service and guarantee work would probably be a questionable success with his service guys. Another dealer (also a nice guy) is about 35 minutes away. He and his staff are very knowledgeable about the saw and the various bar/chain combos available. They have multiples of everything in stock. For reasons of warrranty and service I will probably purchase the saw through him. 

First things first, though. I will purchase the saw when I know the logs are on their way. 

Again, thanks for the recommendations. 

Best, 

John_M


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## ken999 (Jan 13, 2010)

Cutting firewood doesn't reguire a longer bar or special chain. Nor is a 372 overkill. I bought a 385 for the same purpose. Big saws simply cut wood faster. Stick with the stock 20" bar and full chisel chain. Save your money for extra chains and not longer than necessary bars.


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## SolarAndWood (Jan 13, 2010)

I run a 20" with the LGX through plenty of dirty skid behind a tractor logs.  If you are buying two bars, maybe a 20 and a 28 are in order.


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## savageactor7 (Jan 13, 2010)

John M if you haven't gotten your saw yet you should check out Kahlers http://www.gksales.net/ 
Very good sales and service ...been trading with them since the Regan Administration.


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## HittinSteel (Jan 13, 2010)

John, I would definitely buy from the dealer that is a little farther away with more knowledge. He will make sure you are set up right to begin with. This is a pro saw and with the right mix ratio you may not need dealer support for a long time. When you do, the 35 minute drive is not a big deal.


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## John_M (Jan 19, 2010)

A very embarrassing follow-up: Went to GK Sales (thanks , Savageactor) and they were very helpful. Assembled a 372XP for me to run and I was unable to start it - numerous times. Needless to say, I was ashamed of myself. One younger logger asked to give me a hand and he started it with the second pull. This "kid" was built like The Terminator with hands like grapefruits. He handled the 372XP as if it were a popsicle stick. My male identity was totally destroyed for the remainder of the day and in front of so many other guys. Some days, life just ain't fair.  

Because of some medical problems I have lost much of my strength in the last three years. I thought I had recovered enough to resume a somewhat normal routine. Guess I just have to work harder at it. 

I am not certain of my next step. Might just have to use my MS250 as efficiently as possible and try not to abuse the clutch too much. As usual, the members here came through with reasoned opinions based on their real world experiences. Much appreciated!  

Best, 

John_M


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## HittinSteel (Jan 19, 2010)

Keep your head up John, sometimes we cannot help the physical limitations we have been dealt. I imagine there have been countless "bigger" logs cut with the MS 250..... just take your time and on some of the larger logs you may have to cut from both sides.


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## thinkxingu (Jan 19, 2010)

John,
     I wouldn't look at buying a new saw anyway--I have the 250 as well, with a 16" bar, and for simple bucking it's a fine machine.  Starts every time and never bogs down, even with the bar buried.

Besides, I've been thinking this (rough math!): 20 foot 24" diameter logs yield approximately 1/2 cord--(pi)(rsquared)(20)=62--so you would have 12 logs for 6 cord (actually, less because of the air space that would be created when stacking).  If cutting those logs into 18" sections, each 20' log would need 13 cuts for a total of 156 cuts for 6 cords of wood!

If you save 5 seconds (very, very, very generous) on each cut with a bigger saw, you'd save 13 minutes total.

If you're not felling and only bucking <24" logs, I'd stick with the lighter saw.  How many cords you cut a year?

S


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## John_M (Jan 19, 2010)

Hittin, Thanks, I have recovered from the embarrassement and my attitude is as good as ever. Heck, I might even gain additional strength. I'll certainly try. 

thinkx, The most I will ever cut is seven to ten full cords a year. The reason for looking at the 372XP was that I like to have the right tool for the job. I felt a saw with a longer bar and about 60 cc's of displacement would be more appropriate for the load of logs, all of which would be 24" or less. You are right about the MS250. It is a great little saw. Starts very easily and almost immediately, is light, maneuverable, and a real blast to use. I do not see the day when I would want to sell it. If I do purchase another saw it would make sense for it to have approx. 1/3 more cc's then the MS250. 

For the time being I am abandoning my search for a larger saw. Who knows what I will attempt 6 months from today. 

Best, 

John


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## Gooserider (Jan 19, 2010)

Did the saw you were trying have a compression release?  I know it makes a BIG difference, and might be the difference for you between being able to start it and not...  I know my 7900 will just about break my arm if I don't push the button, but when I do, it's as easy or easier than my 36cc Pull-on w/o a compression release...  I've found the same thing using my friend's saws, an assortment of mid-size Husky's and Stihls - the button makes a world of difference...

Gooserider


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## John_M (Jan 20, 2010)

Goose, The service tech who assembeled the saw ran me through the entire starting routine. The compression release was engaged as he described. Of course, the compression release stays in the engaged positon until the saw is started. It then relases automatically. The process of starting the 372XP is really pretty simple. The problem rests in my ability to pull the starter rope far enough, fast enough, and frequently enough.  

However, contrary to my earlier announcement, I have not yet fully abandoned the search for a larger saw. It seems this effort has morphed from one in which I was looking for a larger saw to one in which I am trying to achieve a personal goal which, for the moment, appears to be slightly out of reach. I am now on a mission. Today I will finish constructing what I call a "large saw starter bench" using treated lumber. This assembly will allow me to get a longer pull on the starter rope with the saw held in a stable position at about knee height. This position allows me to stabilize the saw without having to bend over for a ground start or hold it between my knees for a more uncomfortable start. The bench weighs about fifteen pounds (edit: 30 lbs. and it looks great. Tomorrow or Friday I'll see how it works) and is easily moved with the built-in hand-hold. 

Because the larger saw was intended to be used mostly for bucking purposes I will transport the bench to the bucking site for each cutting session. Transporting the assistant to the bucking site will be a minor inconvenience but provide a grand benefit-starting the saw. In the next 3-4 days I will take the creation to a local Stihl dealer to see how/if it works starting a MS362, which also has a compression release. 

It seems I have this remarkable (and perhaps undesireable) ability to turn what should be a trivial pursuit into a compulsive disorder. But, c'est moi. We'll see what happens. 

I'll post again when this pursuit is brought to closure, probably within the week. 

Best wishes to all.

John_M


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## HittinSteel (Jan 20, 2010)

Good luck John, where there is a will, there is way!


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## Gooserider (Jan 20, 2010)

Sounds like you are making good progress John, and developing workarounds to get past your current limitations...  I don't follow the saw models that closely, so I don't know just what features each one has, and wasn't sure if the one you'd been looking at had a compression release - if it hadn't, I would have suggested trying to find a saw that did...  However it sounds like you are ahead of me in that regard.

Another possible option, which would take a lot more modifications, and has it's own limitations, might be to try coming up with a "dragster starter" style setup, with an external motor (maybe a cordless drill?) that hooked into the saw in some way, just for starting purposes...   Not sure just how to do it, but it would seem like something that might work if just your stand doesn't.

Gooserider


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## kenskip1 (Jan 20, 2010)

John, Before I moved to Texas I used to live in Rome NY. I spent many days drooling at the saws in Kaylors showroom. The man with hands like grapefruit name is "Mike" These are some great people to work with. I used to get all my parts from them. As to your physical abilities, just do not bite off more than you are able to chew. Just to let you know something that I had spinal surgery at Upstate Medical center by Dr. Frederickson in 92. anyway, I am now residing here in cozy Texas. I got tired of having to pay someone to shovel off my roof. The temperature outside is now 68. Ken


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## John_M (Jan 20, 2010)

Goose, My current thinking is that this stand will be my last effort to develop a starting aid. If this works, and I believe it will work handsomely, I will probably purchase the 372XP or the MS362. I would be delusional thinking I need a saw larger than the 372XP at 70.7 cc's. I might go my trusted Stihl dealer tomorrow or Friday to try starting the MS362 again. I am very optomistic about the stand being exactly what I need for starting the saw. I might even visit the Husqvarna dealer again (much farther away) because they treated me so honorable the first time. I fear either dealer might want to steal the bench/cradle from me. 

If I were to pursue a more sophisticated starting aid I might be tempted to purchase a saw I have no reasonable right to be using. Ken is very correct in suggesting I not bite off more than I can chew.

Ken, Thanks for the heads up about not biting off more than I can chew. I believe I am okay in that regard. The great state of Texas is worlds away from upstate NY. I am told the people and climate there are most cordial. I still enjoy four distinct seasons and have not yet had the urge to become a "snow bunny". For those who are unfamiliar, a "snow bunny" is one who heads south when the weather turns cold and snowy. 

I'll post the outcome of all these efforts within the week. 

Best, 

John_M


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## bogydave (Jan 21, 2010)

Site for looking up chains, bars & sprockets for your saw
"DP" chain as HittinSteel mentioned is made for what you described.

http://www.oregonchain.com/pro/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=OCS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG


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## jebatty (Jan 21, 2010)

I've had my 372XP for about 6 years and never a problem. It's never died on me, even while idling. Never even replaced the spark plug. I have the 18" bar on mine. It does all my cutting almost as easy as cutting butter. A lot less work than a smaller saw. I always fuel it with premium gas and stabilizer.

As to the compression release, it there is sufficient compression generated on a pull, you may have to push the release button back in. It should always pull easy until it actually starts.

EDIT: I cut equivalent of about 10-15 cords/year firewood plus 5,000 board feet of logs for the sawmill.


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## John_M (Jan 21, 2010)

Jim, The 372XP is a terrific saw. That is why I went to the dealer 1 hour away to purchase one. However, I wanted to be certain I was capable of starting the saw before I purchased it. I am familiar with the Stihl starting routine but needed information on the Husqvarna starting technique. The good people at the dealership showed me the procedure and I tried 3-4 times to start the saw but was unsuccessful. The guys watched every move I made and said I did everything right. They were surprised it didn't start. 

Then the guy built like The Terminator with hands like leathered grapefruit picked up the saw and started it on the second pull. The saw is great. The problem lies with me - not the saw. 

I have not yet given up on a larger saw.

More to come. 

Best, 

John_M


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## Gooserider (Jan 21, 2010)

jebatty said:
			
		

> I've had my 372XP for about 6 years and never a problem. It's never died on me, even while idling. Never even replaced the spark plug. I have the 18" bar on mine. It does all my cutting almost as easy as cutting butter. A lot less work than a smaller saw. I always fuel it with premium gas and stabilizer.
> 
> As to the compression release, it there is sufficient compression generated on a pull, you may have to push the release button back in. It should always pull easy until it actually starts.
> 
> EDIT: I cut equivalent of about 10-15 cords/year firewood plus 5,000 board feet of logs for the sawmill.



What I find on my Dolmar is that the compression release pops when the saw "burps" or almost starts, but doesn't stay running...  If it doesn't fire for at least one revolution, it doesn't pop...  My cold or lukewarm starting drill is to pull the choke out (which also sets the throttle lock) pull until it burps, then push the choke back in w/o touching the throttle, reset the CR and then pull once or twice more to start...  Hot start is pull the choke out and push it back in to set the throttle lock, push the CR and pull to start...

Gooserider


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## smokinj (Jan 21, 2010)

Gooserider said:
			
		

> jebatty said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I have a habit of checking the CR every pull because when your wrong and its not push in its not good.


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## John_M (Jan 21, 2010)

To all who have helped: Returned from my Stihl dealer a short time ago. Brought my new starting bench into the service dept with me. They liked it and thought it might work. They also probably thought I was half nuts. Set the MS362 on the bench and started the saw numerous times with no difficulty. Bench releives all strain on my lower back. The procedure is simple and easy - similar to Gooserider's description. 

Afraid to say more at this point.  :zip: Might jinx and confuse my thought process.  :-S 

Closure is close but not quite there yet. Already made one small modification to the bench. 

Still more to come. 

Best,   

John_M


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## savageactor7 (Jan 22, 2010)

^Holy cow you're pretty determined.


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## John_M (Jan 27, 2010)

Closure, but not as I had planned. 

Yesterday I purchased the MS362 w/ 20" bar and semi-chisel chain at the same trusted dealership where I purchased my Iron & Oak 27 ton splitter and my MS250 Stihl. The new saw started quite easily for me yesterday at the dealership and was easy to handle-nice balance. I asked the service tech. to start the saw first so I could watch him to be certain I could follow his example. All of my successful starts were during the next hour after he started the saw. His starting the saw first may have been the reason for my successful starts. 

The rest of this written with my tail between my legs (picture a submissive coyote after giving in to a superior male). Upon returning home I let the new saw sit in the garage for a few hours while I had lunch. Tried to start the saw a few times yesterday afternoon and again today. As part of my pre-start routine I always check for bar oil and fuel in their tanks. These were ok. Then I did the regular start engine routine: 1) Engage chain brake; 2) Squeeze trigger control and trigger and move the choke to the full choke position; 3) Push-in the compression release; 4) Pull starter cord briskly 3-4 times to get fuel into the cylinder; 5) Move choke lever up one level to the half-choke/start positon; 6) Pull starter cord briskly until the saw starts. The most full pulls I could achieve before losing strength was ten or eleven. I couldn't get it to start. I flooded the saw a couple of times so I removed and cleaned the spark plug and blew out the cylinder. Still (nice play on words) no start. The problem belonged to me-not the saw. I was temporarily discouraged. However, all is not yet lost. 

Here are my thoughts: 1) I will use this new saw to buck the truck load of logs; 2) Might have to use my younger and stronger buddy to start saw the first few times; 3) After break-in and during warmer weather the saw should start just a smidgen easier; 4) Practice starting the saw three to four times each day to develop more strength; 5) Let younger and stronger buddy use my saw as primary or back-up saw for some of the big wood he will be cutting this year. We frequently work together picking rocks (I drive while he picks) and cutting/splitting wood (I split while he cuts). 

My younger and stronger buddy is coming over this afternoon to try starting my new saw. He has a Stihl Farm Boss and he starts it quite easily. So, starting mine should be a piece of cake for him. I will try starting it a few times after his first start. This should work. For some reason or other I think he will rub his hands in glee and enjoy malicious pleasure after his success and my failure. Isn't that what buddies are for? 

Will post a quick follow-up after he leaves. 

Thanks for the suggestions and best wishes.

A much humbled, 

John_M


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## John_M (Jan 27, 2010)

Younger and stronger buddy just left. He started the MS362 on the second pull. I was able to start if after that but with some difficulty. It seems I am not yet able to pull the cord fast enough to develop the rpm's needed for starting. I just returned from the basement after making an effort to start the cold saw. Was unsuccessful. I'll keep working on that shortcoming. 

Again, thanks for the help and best wishes, good health to all. 

John_M


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## Gooserider (Jan 27, 2010)

The other BIG thing that I have found with saws and other OPE in general is that getting the "starting drill" down exactly correct is a big part of the issue - get the drill right, and it's an easy start, screw it up and any of us will spend a lot of time pulling...  Warm start drill is less fussy than cold start, so that may be part of the issue as well...  I've heard that Stihl's are fussier about the starting drill than some, don't know how true it is.

As a possible minor assist - is there any practical way for you to "pre-heat" the saw before trying to start it?  Even if it is just keeping it in a warm place for a couple hours, that might help...  Another possible assist, if used with caution might be a shot of ether / starting spray in the air cleaner...

Gooserider


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## savageactor7 (Jan 27, 2010)

John I didn't want to suggest this before but since you now own it why not try pulling it left handed. I had to do this for awhile till I got my shoulder fixed up. The pulling is OK but it's not as easy as it sounds at first. You have to rehearse the motions before firing it up for real cause you out of position...it seems you whole balance is off.

huh...can't recall my exact position but once I did it a few times I felt better about it...kind of hairy at first. Maybe you'll only have to do it lefty when its cold...warm engines are a lot easier to start.


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## John_M (Jan 28, 2010)

Goose, I have moved the saw into my basement where the temp is about 55 °F year 'round. That is where my buddy started it yesterday. I might even use a heat lamp about 1.5" above it for about one hour for extra heat before I intend to use it. The heat lamp will require close monitoring because I am not certain how the direct heat or the UV? rays might affect the saw's plastic shroud. 

The quick shot of starter fluid did occur to me but I temporarily closeted this idea. Horrible visions of me trying to squirt the ether, perhaps having to extinguish a resulting fire in case I screw up the squirting, release /apply the chain brake, and move the choke lever to the "run" position, all within a nano second got me chuckling at the vision. Un-closeting the ether idea might occur as a last ditch attempt at success, but only after discussing its practicality and warranty coverage with my trusted service tech at the dealership.  

Savageactor, "huh" is right! I did indeed give this serious thought, even going so far as to attempt it on a "Let's see how it feels" basis. As you stated, it did feel very awkward and the necessary position placed my right leg too close to the chain for comfort. This is not a viable option right now. 

Two other thoughts: 1) My new bench is working as well as I hoped it would. The platform is about 18" off the ground (might still lower it another 1" - 2" after more trials) and side rails hold the saw in a snug position-a real winner; 2) I would like to have had as much "success" starting the 16% larger 372XP after it had warmed up. My mind was set on getting that saw. However, things worked out very well. Both dealerships went out of their way to make me a satisfied customer and both gave me a terrific price break on the saw. Either saw is capable of performing the assigned task with great honor and both far exceed any ability I might have for the next hoped-for ten years of active cutting. At my age, speed and production are very secondary to safety, focus and enjoyment. 

I will post in this thread again when I am able to start the saw on my own. Boy, will that feel good!

Thanks, best wishes and good health. 

John


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## John_M (Jan 30, 2010)

Final closure: It's a great day today. 

Attempted to cold start the MS362 this morning but I was unsuccessful, again. It was close but still a failure. Buddy came down after lunch and started the saw with two pulls. We ran it for a while then shut it down. I started it on the first pull after a few minutes. This sequence of start-run for a while-shut down, went on for about 20 minutes. It started on my first pull each time. Final test about ten minutes ago. Saw had been resting for about 1.5 hours so starting it after that length of time would be very close to a cold start, I believe. So, I picked up the saw, went through my starting drill, placed it back on the starting bench, and gave the cord a goodly pull. It started immediately. 

Will go through this cold start routine each morning and afternoon for about the next week or more so the technique is firmly embedded in my muscle memory. This will also be a good way to break-in the saw and chain. Wish I had some wood to cut. It will be delivered within the month. 

Thanks to all for the suggestions and encouragement. 

Best wishes, 

John


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