# Natural gas smell Jotul 3 Classic Vent gas stove



## Wendy McMenamin (Dec 13, 2016)

Hello.  My Jotul 3 direct vent gas stove was installed in Jan. 1997. Other than replacing the switch a few times, have generally had no trouble with it.  Replaced carpeting in the room it is in this summer and had to remove the stove from the room.  After putting the stove back in place and a couple months later lighting the pilot and using it I smelled natural gas.  Called the gas company who found a small leak in the connection from the basement to the stove and tightened it. Couple of days later still smelled natural gas, called gas company back who recommended we have the stove serviced, they found no additional gas leak.  Had the stove serviced by a local (Buffalo, NY) company who cleaned it thoroughly but couldn't find any reason for any natural gas smell.  It is still happening.  Has anyone else had any problems like this? The technician thinks it may be from a downdraft, but we have never had any problems with any downdraft in all the years we have had it.  could it have something to do with the vent pipe having been taken apart to remove the unit from the family room this summer?  Any thoughts?


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## DAKSY (Dec 13, 2016)

If you are smelling NG, it is from a GAS LEAK. If you smell something from the vent, it will NOT be NG.
The fuel gets burned in the firebox. The result is exhaust. The exhaust does not smell like gas.
You said your unit is a DV. Is that correct? Could it be a B-Vent model?


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## Wendy McMenamin (Dec 13, 2016)

DAKSY said:


> If you are smelling NG, it is from a GAS LEAK. If you smell something from the vent, it will NOT be NG.
> The fuel gets burned in the firebox. The result is exhaust. The exhaust does not smell like gas.
> You said your unit is a DV. Is that correct? Could it be a B-Vent model?


DAKSY- All it says is "3 Classic Direct Vent".  I don't think it is a B-Vent model.  I realize that NG is coming from somewhere, leaking, but the gas company has come out twice and the second time said there is NO gas leak outside the unit.  I guess this means the leak is inside??  Could the unit be getting too much gas, or not combusting it properly??  I appreciate any input.  Thanks!


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## Trouthead (Dec 13, 2016)

Please don't take this wrong, but are you sure what natural gas smells like?  I know Williamsville is in Western NY were natural gas is common place, but if the gas company can't detect it and you are still smelling something, then it might not be natural gas.


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## Wendy McMenamin (Dec 13, 2016)

Both my husband and I are smelling natural gas only when the stove is on.  The technician who was out servicing it a few days ago is coming back but not until 12/20.  I thought someone else may have had something like this happen and could possibly give us some thoughts on the subject.  We have a CO detector in the room and it has not gone off, so maybe it is not NG, but it does smell like that.  We are only using it sparingly but are supposed to get a cold snap this week and will need the heat.


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## Trouthead (Dec 13, 2016)

Did the gas company check the whole line from the meter to the stove?


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## Wendy McMenamin (Dec 13, 2016)

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No, not from the meter, just the shut off to the stove in the basement.  Wouldn't we smell gas in the basement if there were a leak from the meter?  We only smell NG when the stove is on.  The pilot is on all the time and we don't smell anything, only when it is on.  Again, our CO detector has not gone off - it is a plug in model with battery backup.  We checked it and it is working.


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## Trouthead (Dec 13, 2016)

I don't know how your gas line runs, but if possible I would have the tech check each and every inch of line that he can and each joint.


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## Wendy McMenamin (Dec 13, 2016)

[
OK - thanks for the advice.


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## Millbilly (Dec 13, 2016)

If it is only smelling when the unit is on, leak test the line that goes from the valve to the burner.


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## coaly (Dec 13, 2016)

Trouthead said:


> I don't know how your gas line runs, but if possible I would have the tech check each and every inch of line that he can and each joint.



Every gas smell call should be tested as follows; Shut off all pilots and connect manometer or U-tube gauge to test port anywhere in pressurized  portion of system. Shut off gas at meter or main valve. (tank or cylinder valve on LP) Allow to set under pressure for 10 minutes. (for LP with high pressure line or pigtail that supplies regulator you must bleed off residual line pressure until manometer starts to drop rapidly. This prevents the pressure drop in low pressure system from leak using the high pressure gas before regulator from supplying  pressure to low pressure system you're leak checking)  This is a legal leak down test. If the system holds pressure you will know very quickly. Doesn't matter if the lines are accessible or buried. Next, if system holds pressure, and the smell complaint is from a certain appliance, open service valve to that appliance but do not light pilot. Leave valve in off position. Repeat 10 minute leak down test. This checks supply from service valve to gas valve including appliance regulator if there is one. If system holds pressure, turn gas on and spray leak detector on gas valve, pilot line connections and main burner tubing connection. Turn gas valve to pilot position and depress knob to supply pilot assembly with gas pressure. Make sure you check for leaks (bubbles) around gas valve on / off/ pilot knob as well as any regulator or other fittings on gas valve. Soak the entire gas valve with a non corrosive soap solution. NOT Windex or any cleaner containing ammonia.

When you leak check a system and appliance systematically as described above you can drive away assured there are no leaks. Any less than the above you should not be working for a gas company or didn't receive the correct training. I've seen some NG companies leak check using the dial on meter doing the 10 minute leak down. They shut off all appliances and pressurize system momentarily by opening valve at meter and shutting off. Take note of reading on dial and check to make sure it doesn't move in 10 minutes. That is a quick test if they can leave a line on safely but I prefer a manometer so I can tell how many inches of water column it looses in how many minutes while timing it. Very large systems are done the same way with inert gas when you have lines going from hot to cold in many buildings to prevent expanding or contracting gas from increasing or decreasing  pressure during test.


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## Heatsource (Dec 14, 2016)

are these techs searching with soapy water or combustible gas sniffer?
ive used the detector to find many leaks others could not find with detection fluids


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