# Need Expert troubleshooting help englander 28-3500



## OAKLEY (Nov 9, 2015)

I have been using this awesome stove for about 8 yrs or so. The blower fan on the back stopped kicking on.  Burns wood great,  but fan wont start, I turned down the start temp, started a fire and fan wont kick on. I dont want to dump money into it for parts, any idea what it could be?  thermostat?  if yes, do I replace the whole assembly? or just a part? or can I disconnect it and run the unit manually?? I have no tech experience with these, I just know how to build a fire!  my regular furnace caught on fire, so all I have is this wood burner, fixed budget, need low cost solution.  Thanks for any imput!


----------



## Jags (Nov 9, 2015)

From earlier conversation you stated that when it started having issues you could tap it with a stick and it would run again.  Please explain what you were tapping.

I am sending out the batman signal to Mike at ESW for ya...  @stoveguy2esw


----------



## OAKLEY (Nov 9, 2015)

well, I was just banging on the wood stove itself, giving it a knock. It would kick back on.  But now, it wont do that.  Trying to figure out what is wrong
and /or how to check if it will work after I start a hot fire, which I dont want to do if I dont have a way to dissipate the heat once its burning.....


----------



## Jags (Nov 9, 2015)

OAKLEY said:


> Trying to figure out what is wrong


Yep - just trying to get some of the little details out there to help the troubleshooting process.  Usually when taping on something "and it works" means that a connection is getting jarred.  I am guessing that a thermocouple may have failed.  But it is just that - a guess.  Other folks that are way more familiar with this stove will be along.  Hang loose, help is on the way.


----------



## OAKLEY (Nov 9, 2015)

Jags said:


> Yep - just trying to get some of the little details out there to help the troubleshooting process.  Usually when taping on something "and it works" means that a connection is getting jarred.  I am guessing that a thermocouple may have failed.  But it is just that - a guess.  Other folks that are way more familiar with this stove will be along.  Hang loose, help is on the way.


Thank you!!


----------



## brenndatomu (Nov 9, 2015)

Try jumping out (bypassing) the switch that controls the blower


----------



## OAKLEY (Nov 9, 2015)

Okay, how do I do it?  sorry, Im very handy and love fixing my own things, but this is a new one for me, see pic attached. Thanks


----------



## brenndatomu (Nov 9, 2015)

It's hard to tell from that pic but it looks like you can just jump between the two black wires where they attach to the switch with a short piece of wire. Be careful, don't shock yourself.
That switch doesn't look right to me. It should be oriented so that the wording on the wheel can be read more or less horizontally, depending on the furnace temp. With the wording past vertical, I'm saying the temp sensing part of the switch is broken...


----------



## OAKLEY (Nov 9, 2015)

So are you saying that I dont need a whole switch just part of it, or is it repairable, sorry Im a newby.
thanks


----------



## brenndatomu (Nov 9, 2015)

No, you would need to replace the whole thing if it is bad. FYI, get the number off of it and plug it in on ebay, you can find them there much cheaper sometimes, especially if you are willing to go used. They don't too often fail so used should be fine...


----------



## brenndatomu (Nov 9, 2015)

Oh, and you will need to measure how far it sticks into the the plenum too, they make all different lengths, get one that is close to the same. Search Honeywell fan limit switch or furnace limit switch


----------



## OAKLEY (Nov 9, 2015)

Okay, I have a part number for the thermostat ac-1339
thanks


----------



## OAKLEY (Nov 17, 2015)

Okay, I got a new thermostat, and installed it, it had a 5" insert probe.   It still is not kicking on the fan.
I built a hot fire in it, turned it on manual, wont kick on, then put it on auto (set on approx. 95 / 135 degrees-on)
still wont kick on Im wondering if I wired it incorrectly.  I installed a white-rodgers type 5d46 or 5d51 fan and limit controls.
Can anyone tell what I did wrong here, see pics. Thank you!


----------



## brenndatomu (Nov 17, 2015)

Not familiar with that switch. Did jumping the black wires make the blower run with the old switch?


----------



## brenndatomu (Nov 17, 2015)

OK, I looked up the wiring for that switch number, it looks like the black wires need to both be on the right "fan" side, 1 top, 1 bottom. And i don't think the jumper wire is needed in this application. I'd get rid of those spade terminals on the wires too, get the proper size fork terminals to go under the screws. Those spades will work their way loose on you in the middle of some cold night...


----------



## OAKLEY (Nov 17, 2015)

YAHOOOO!!  I just did what you said, both wires on fan side.
the fan works perfectly!!


----------



## OAKLEY (Nov 17, 2015)

do is it odd no wires under the limit side??

can I get those fork spades at home depot?  thank you soooo much.  Now, time to work on my dehumidifier,
Im becoming a handy woman!


----------



## brenndatomu (Nov 17, 2015)

OAKLEY said:


> do is it odd no wires under the limit side??
> 
> can I get those fork spades at home depot?  thank you soooo much.  Now, time to work on my dehumidifier,
> Im becoming a handy woman!


The limit would be hooked to the burner if it was on a oil or gas furnace, or a damper if it was a motorized damper wood furnace, so you don't need it since you have a manual controlled firebox.
Yes, you can get those terminals at HD or most any hardware. I would guess that is 12 or 14 gauge wire so the blue connectors should fit. You will need to buy or borrow a crimping tool for those too. The other thing you could do is get the female side of those spade terminals, they make them that will attach under those screws, may be hard to find those though...
Handy woman extraordinaire!  
Oh, and you are very welcome!


----------



## OAKLEY (Nov 17, 2015)

Thanks again!
by the way, someone mentioned that its not good to have the wood burner plumbed into the same ductwork as the
regular gas furnace?  because thats how mine is.


----------



## brenndatomu (Nov 17, 2015)

Well, yes and no, it depends. If your gas furnace has clearance to combustibles that meet the specs for a wood furnace, then it could be OK. I don't know what Englander calls for on that model, but generally it is 6" for the first 6' and then 1-2" for the remaining duct, depending on the manufacturer. Also, you often times have to put a anti backdraft damper on the gas furnace, but if is all working as is then maybe it is OK without it.


----------



## OAKLEY (Nov 23, 2015)

well, unfortunate news now.... blower was woring great; came home the other day, blower shut itself off while still hot fire inside, and I had the temps
set properly on thermostat.  now, when i try to turn the squirrel cage, the fan wont start spinning but hums loudly.  as though it wants to spin but cant.

bad motor?  I sprayed some wd40 into center which i thin may have been the bearing I dont now.  Still nothing.   Any idea of an aftermaret brand
blower I can used thats cheaper than the $200 englander blower?   it calls for part number bm-1376
or should i trouble shoot other?? have no heat again!


----------



## OAKLEY (Nov 23, 2015)

also, is it alright to use a replacement blower motor thats around 100 cfm  when the original blower on it is a 850 cfm.
concerned that the lower cfm wont remove enough heat from the area and cause overheating of the motor/burner/ and or melt some
of the metal due to overheat etc...... any help appreciated!


----------



## brenndatomu (Nov 23, 2015)

OAKLEY said:


> also, is it alright to use a replacement blower motor thats around 100 cfm  when the original blower on it is a 850 cfm.
> concerned that the lower cfm wont remove enough heat from the area and cause overheating of the motor/burner/ and or melt some
> of the metal due to overheat etc...... any help appreciated!


No, you need to find a blower that is similar in size. You can maybe replace just the motor. Hafta pull it all apart so you can see the tag info on the motor...
Grainger.com can be a good place to find motors, they have locations around your area too if it is in stock or you want to have one ordered into your local store. You can call 'em or even just stop by, they are pretty helpful in finding something that will work for you


----------



## OAKLEY (Nov 23, 2015)

Oh, the housing loos fine, I will try to find just the motor.  thans!


----------



## OAKLEY (Dec 18, 2015)

no luck finding cross ref numbers, what the blower says is:
no. 7090-1376   type u90b1  115 v    3.2 a  rpm 1450   7.5 mfd   370vac cap
class b   e40513


----------



## brenndatomu (Dec 18, 2015)

No horsepower (HP) shown? Have a pic of the ID tag and motor?


----------



## OAKLEY (Dec 18, 2015)

no hp shown  Im just trying to replace the whole blower, because I cant find just the motor for it,
its crazy, I just dont now the cross ref numbers.  the one on there is made by 'endlander'  by someone else
im sure, but they wont say who.   it goes on my englander 28-3500 wood add on burner
than you


----------



## OAKLEY (Dec 18, 2015)

pic too large to download


----------



## brenndatomu (Dec 18, 2015)

OAKLEY said:


> pic too large to download


Can you edit it down? Most computers come with a edit program. Mine's called paint. I have to shrink mine about 50% to load up here.


----------



## OAKLEY (Dec 18, 2015)

alright, here it is, see pic


----------



## STIHLY DAN (Dec 18, 2015)

You need the FR # (frame) HP # (horse power) volts. rpm and amps. to get a new motor.


----------



## STIHLY DAN (Dec 18, 2015)

The type # could be used as frame and hp


----------



## brenndatomu (Dec 19, 2015)

Boy, it seems info on that motor is top secret! at least online
I still think if you take that motor to Grainger, they could get one for you. There are at least two stores in the Cleveland area.  http://www.grainger.com/. But, a new motor may not be _that much_ less ($100?) than a new blower assembly ($212) (worth the trouble?)

EDIT: OOPS! I thought I posted this last night...check in this morning, and here it sits...waiting for "post reply"


----------



## maple1 (Dec 19, 2015)

3.2 amps is around 1/3 hp, if that helps. I think.


----------



## Badfish740 (Jan 13, 2016)

Just bumping this thread/checking in because my nine year old 28-3500's blower is starting to act up.  It hasn't quit entirely on me yet, but it has been turning awfully slow intermittently.  Unplugging it and then plugging it back in seems to fix the problem for now but I'd like to get a new blower/blower motor before it quits entirely.


----------



## OAKLEY (Jan 13, 2016)

hello, I cant seem to find the cross ref number to replace the motor, so I will probably end up getting a new blower
assembly for $200....  sorry I was not more help...


----------

