# Timberline wood stove



## Chrism

My brother has an old Timberline stove he is going to have a chimney sweep look at it wondering what a good stovetop temperature is to run those stoves at. Also any info about Timberline stoves would be greatly appreciated.


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## pen

What kind is it?  Is it a single door or a double door model?

pen


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## Chrism

Double door


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## pen

As a general rule, I'd say to keep the hottest spot you can find on the top (usually on the front top plate, in the middle, just before the step) 700 or under. A jaunt to 750-800 shouldn't split it in 1/2, but that shouldn't be the norm.

If the unit doesn't have a baffle (smoke shelf) already in it, he might consider making one for the stove, especially if the stove collar is on the top of the unit.

In general, I prefer the single door units to the double door for efficiency and burn time/length, but each are good heaters.  

pen


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## BrotherBart

If it has a full baffle anything over 500 with dry wood should burn fairly clean. Like Pen said try to hold it under seven hundred. And get used to using a good ladder and chimney brush. Often.


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## Chrism

BrotherBart said:


> If it has a full baffle anything over 500 with dry wood should burn fairly clean. Like Pen said try to hold it under seven hundred. And get used to using a good ladder and chimney brush. Often.


Why is that about the ladder and chimney brush? They dont burn clean? No secondary burn?


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## pen

Chrism said:


> Why is that about the ladder and chimney brush? They dont burn clean? No secondary burn?


 
They are a pre-epa stove, so they don't have a secondary combustion promoting system in them.

When burning my double door fisher, I swept the chimney monthly for good measure.

pen


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## BrotherBart

Chrism said:


> Why is that about the ladder and chimney brush? They dont burn clean? No secondary burn?


 
Timberlines haven't been made since the late eighties because they didn't have secondary burn technology for clean burns to meet the 1988 EPA regs. They started out as a Fisher knockoff.

Thousands of them were sold around here in the eighties.


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## Beetle-Kill

First off, do you have access to a-:
welder
grinder
drill press?
If so, PM me, I think I have detailed pics. of my Timberline mods., to add a hefty baffle and secondary air. material cost was less than $100 and well worth it.
And yes, you need to add a rope gasket to the stove, but not the doors. The doors will squish the gasket in place, and it'll work better.
After mods., flue temps @ 900 or so, 10-12 hr. burns, and plenty of heat. Burned as clean as my BK does, if not more so
BUT- it's only worth doing if you can do the work yourself, a welding shop would kill you on cost.


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## Chrism

What are the clearances to combustible on those stoves?   Or do you follow nfpa specs?


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## coaly

Chrism said:


> My brother has an old Timberline stove he is going to have a chimney sweep look at it wondering what a good stovetop temperature is to run those stoves at. Also any info about Timberline stoves would be greatly appreciated.



The origin of the stove and details about Cal Cotton is mentioned many times in "The Fisher Stove Story". (pg 71 and 120 among others, just check it out, it's a quick read)  He was a licensed Fisher builder from Idaho, who later talked Bob Fisher into selling him a second license for NY. He moved there to run the new business, and had a manager run his Idaho facility. He later partnered with another Fisher licensee, Duncan (a pig farmer) from Southern IL. to produce the Timberline;
https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/bob-fisher/  (click Attachments Tab)

And the following thread;
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/timberline.65794/#post-830673

Here's his online presence;
http://www.mazeministry.com/mormonism/testimonies/caljoycerixon.htm


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## pen

Unless there is a UL tag that states otherwise on the stove, it's 36 inches clearance to combustibles.  Than can be cut down less by making wall shields with a one inch air gap.

pen


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## BrotherBart

Knew Coaly would be along shortly.


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## Chrism

Its going go be tucked in a brick lined fireplace. We were going to  use a chimney liner to attach to the stove to vent it.  Its a monster fireplace in an old farm house. Any suggestions on installation??  Thanks for all the info so far.


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## Beetle-Kill

I just leaned a couple of boards of Wonderboard against the stone hearth backing. It was crude, but effective. Those clearance requirements were another reason I sold that stove. Just didn't work in that location.
Coaly, my Timberline had a UL tag that said "made in Colorado Springs" on a shield. Does that sound correct?


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## coaly

BrotherBart said:


> Knew Coaly would be along shortly.


 
I bit my tongue


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## coaly

Beetle-Kill said:


> I just leaned a couple of boards of Wonderboard against the stone hearth backing. It was crude, but effective. Those clearance requirements were another reason I sold that stove. Just didn't work in that location.
> Coaly, my Timberline had a UL tag that said "made in Colorado Springs" on a shield. Does that sound correct?


 
No idea, I just know where Cal was from and the businesses he started. No idea where his stoves were later made. You can probably ask him from his contact information at the bottom of the above web page. Just don't mention me or Bobby Fisher and you'll be fine. 

Listed as built in Syracuse NY and Dover NJ here;
http://www.timberlinespecialty.com/


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## coaly

Here's a 1978 news article giving more Timberline company info;
http://news.google.com/newspapers?n...YBjAAAAIBAJ&sjid=8HkNAAAAIBAJ&pg=4332,1024283


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## Chrism

Coaly sounds like your a die hard timberline fan!!  Whats the deal?


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## coaly

Me ?? They say imitating your invention is the best compliment.
_*Nothing heats like a Fisher*_ 

Doing research on Fisher Stoves led me to a lot of copy cat stove builders that I save the info on, so when asked I pass it on. Just trying not to offend any more industrious imitators.


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## coaly

The death of Timberline was not due to EPA regulations in 1988 like many other stove companies.

_*So I'll try not to offend any surviving family members, heirs or stove owners.*_ I'll back up claims as usual with links.

The Timberline Timeline ;

Timberline Wood Stoves Inc. was formed in 1977 by Calvin Cotton and good friend and partner Lonnie Eroll Preslar as noted in Lonnies obituary 10-11-2003.
http://www.chron.com/CDA/archives/archive.mpl/obits_3698829/preslar.html

Notice in this obituary, not only is the company mentioned, but also a brother Ivan Preslar.
This was Ivan T. Preslar II.

Ivan partnered with Robert M Weichart President of Adirondack Wood Stove Works Inc.and became Timberline Energy Corp. in NY.

Ivan was the current acting President of the surviving eastern company in Syracuse NY. during the Bankruptcy Chapter 11 filing April 13, 1981.
http://ny.findacase.com/research/wfrmDocViewer.aspx/xq/fac.19850412_0000011.NNY.htm/qx

Ivan became a silent partner of Timberline East Inc. formed from this bankruptcy.

This is where things get interesting with Banruptcy Fraud cases between the owners and later bankruptcy courts. Weichart opened a checking account on behalf of Timberline East with checks issued to Timberline Energy. Sept. 10, 1981, Chapter 11 (reorganization) was converted to Chapter 7 of bankruptcy code. Federal marshals padlocked the premisies of Timberline Energy that same day.

4 years later, criminal charges along with 4 counts of bankruptcy fraud, (the "FEW" stoves sold at bankruptcy sale were actually 333 plus parts) Weichart was sentenced to 8 years imprisonment. (5 suspended by district court)
http://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/USCOURTS-nynd-6_05-cv-00571/pdf/USCOURTS-nynd-6_05-cv-00571-0.pdf

https://bulk.resource.org/courts.gov/c/F2/783/783.F2d.23.85-1333.85-1332.85-1331.594.595.html

The address on this New York state tax commision letter shows the original business address never changed from the start of the business;
http://www.nysdta.org/STC/Sales/1982_T_Z0005.pdf


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## Jason Hall

Chrism said:


> Coaly sounds like your a die hard timberline fan!! Whats the deal?


 
Coaly sure makes you want to take your stove straight to the scrap yard does'nt he LOL! He does'nt mean any harm, he just wants you to know For Sure that Bob Fisher designed your stove.


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## Copelandwoodburner

Chrism said:


> My brother has an old Timberline stove he is going to have a chimney sweep look at it wondering what a good stovetop temperature is to run those stoves at. Also any info about Timberline stoves would be greatly appreciated.


 
For anyone looking for Timberline stove information I dug out my original owners manual and warranty that I got when I purchased my Timberline back in 1981. I have noticed that every now and then somebody finds one, and has questions about specs and such. I just want everyone to know that I have used this stove every year since I purchased it and it is just a great, durable heat producer that is very economical and yes it may not be EPA approved but you can control the heat output with a damper, and by paying attention to the air intake settings, as so it doesn't blow you out of your living area like my neighbors EPA approved stove does.  And yes, you need to brush out your chimney occasionally.  Hopefully I can download this manual.


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## Copelandwoodburner

Here's the rest of the Timberline Manual.


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## coaly

Thanks !!

I'll let the webmaster know to put this manual in the Timberline history. Manuals found are searchable under their manufacturer name in the Hearth Wiki section. ( A Goggle search will find them there as well) Only he can upload them onto the site when someone sends one to him. I think he can work with this one right from the thread. Here's a link to the index page where it will be.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/Special:Categories


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## webbie

Note - we are just updating the wiki to a new one!

https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/index/

I will make a timberline entry and put this there!


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## webbie

Here we go!

I changed the images of the manual to a single PDF
https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/timberline-stoves/

Thanks, Copeland!


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## B_laffey

Beetle-Kill said:


> First off, do you have access to a-:
> welder
> grinder
> drill press?
> If so, PM me, I think I have detailed pics. of my Timberline mods., to add a hefty baffle and secondary air. material cost was less than $100 and well worth it.
> And yes, you need to add a rope gasket to the stove, but not the doors. The doors will squish the gasket in place, and it'll work better.
> After mods., flue temps @ 900 or so, 10-12 hr. burns, and plenty of heat. Burned as clean as my BK does, if not more so
> BUT- it's only worth doing if you can do the work yourself, a welding shop would kill you on cost.


Can I get pics of the modifications?


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## Orenthalcaleb

Why can't we PM BEETLEKILL?


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## begreen

There's a hyphen. Did you try Beetle-Kill ?


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## Orenthalcaleb

Beetle-Kill said:


> I just leaned a couple of boards of Wonderboard against the stone hearth backing. It was crude, but effective. Those clearance requirements were another reason I sold that stove. Just didn't work in that location.
> Coaly, my Timberline had a UL tag that said "made in Colorado Springs" on a shield. Does that sound correct?


Hi there Beetle-Kill !

Merry Christmas, I moved in to a place in Evergreen with the old 2 door timberline woodstove insert. I see you have some recommendations for the skilled DIYer. Can you please share! I'll be happy to share some elk meat in return. OREN SCHMIDT Orenthalcaleb@gmail.com  7206446736

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## Orenthalcaleb

begreen said:


> There's a hyphen. Did you try Beetle-Kill ?


Won't let me send him a message! Maybe because I'm a new member? 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## begreen

Could be. If so, post a couple more times and see if that works.


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## Orenthalcaleb

Beetle-Kill said:


> I just leaned a couple of boards of Wonderboard against the stone hearth backing. It was crude, but effective. Those clearance requirements were another reason I sold that stove. Just didn't work in that location.
> Coaly, my Timberline had a UL tag that said "made in Colorado Springs" on a shield. Does that sound correct?


Merry Christmas, I moved in to a place in Evergreen with the old 2 door timberline woodstove insert. I see you have some recommendations for the skilled DIYer. Can you please share! I'll be happy to share some elk meat in return. OREN SCHMIDT Orenthalcaleb@gmail.com 7206446736


Chrism said:


> Its going go be tucked in a brick lined fireplace. We were going to  use a chimney liner to attach to the stove to vent it.  Its a monster fireplace in an old farm house. Any suggestions on installation??  Thanks for all the info so far.




Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## Guru

webbie said:


> Here we go!
> 
> I changed the images of the manual to a single PDF
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/timberline-stoves/
> 
> Thanks, Copeland!


The PDF for the Timberline stove appears to be missing pages 4 & 5.


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## Rainman44

Beetle-Kill said:


> First off, do you have access to a-:
> welder
> grinder
> drill press?
> If so, PM me, I think I have detailed pics. of my Timberline mods., to add a hefty baffle and secondary air. material cost was less than $100 and well worth it.
> And yes, you need to add a rope gasket to the stove, but not the doors. The doors will squish the gasket in place, and it'll work better.
> After mods., flue temps @ 900 or so, 10-12 hr. burns, and plenty of heat. Burned as clean as my BK does, if not more so
> BUT- it's only worth doing if you can do the work yourself, a welding shop would kill you on cost.


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