# Need help on changing Hydr. splitter return hose



## Hogwildz (Feb 18, 2012)

Well, looks like the return hose on my splitter split and needs replacing.
Looks like just a clear hose to me, with hose clamps on each end holding it to barbed fittings.
Is this something I can get at Home Depot or Lowes? Hardware store? Or do I have to go to an auto parts or hydraulic shop?

Also noticed there is no filter. I bought this off my neighbor, I believe it is a North Star. He bought it new and I don't think he has replaced anything on it.
Do I need to drain all the fluid and replace with all new? What type hydraulic fluid do I use? Does the system need to be bled for any reason and if so how?

I will be the first to admit I know nothing about hydraulics. But can learn real quick as I did with everything else, hands on.
I know a guy I met through my job was working on an excavator and a hydraulic line blew off and blew fluid right through his hand. Nasty scars!
Is this a concern here, or is that only the pressure line, while it is running and under load.

Thanks in advance guys.


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## MasterMech (Feb 18, 2012)

I would replace it with low-pressure hydraulic hose.  That clear fish-tank tubing prolly doesn't like the heat from the oil.  If your fluid isn't discolored/milky then I say keep it.  You can add a filter no prob if you so desire.

Hyd. Fluid injuries are no joke.  Gangrene can set in and you can lose that limb or worse.

No need to drain/refill the system if you're quick!


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## leaddog (Feb 18, 2012)

There is no pressure on the return line. It looks like the return line was replaced with a nylon plastic line. I would remove it and put on a low pressure hyd line. You can get it at any auto repair supply. Just tell them what size dia. and length. It looks like 3/4 but I can;t tell for sure.
If the fluid looks milky then replace it. Don't use heater hose as the fluid will rot it.
leaddog


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## Hogwildz (Feb 18, 2012)

Thanks guys. The fluid is clear. How much will dump out when I change the hose? Is there a specific oil to use to top it off? Or can I just pick some hydraulic oil up at the auto parts store?
I read somewhere where it said not to mix fluids?
I'll get the low pressure hydraulic hose. Thinking just take the old off and take it with me and match it up as far as size?


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## MasterMech (Feb 18, 2012)

From where the fitting is on the tank, lloks like you'lllose most if not all the fluid. (Prob 4-10 gallons depending on tank size)  Empty it into a clean container if you like and pour it back in when you're done or jam a plug in the fitting as soon as you get the hose off.

To top it off, you can use universal tractor hydraulic oil.  Shouldn't create any issues mixing it with whatever is there.  I'm assuming the current fluid type is unknown?

Edit: You could always take just a small section of the hose from the top end.  Make sure the remainder is secured above the top of the tank and you won't lose anything until you change the hose.  Then be quick: :lol:


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## Hogwildz (Feb 18, 2012)

Existing fluid unknown. Looks like hyrd. fluid though.
Sounds good, thanks MM


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## Hogwildz (Feb 18, 2012)

Well my problem as usual just turned into more than 1.
The cap to the hyrd. tank is plastic, with a s.s. screen near the top, a thin foam disk filter, and then it broke off inside the female metal mounting flange welded onto the top of the tank. Inside the neck that was part of the cap is a "auger" looking pc that just sets in the neck, and when I pulled that out the threaded male part of the cap has what looks lik a strainer built into it. Somewhat like a kitchen sink strainer look. SO the trheaded male part of the cap is still in the metal fill neck flange and broke off flush with the top, and that strainer looking part is part of the cap that is still in there. Plastic for gods sakes!
Cap is trash, this model is not made anymore, so now I have to find a way to get the old part still in the fill neck out, and rig some sort of cap. Hogz not happy now.


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## TreePointer (Feb 18, 2012)

Look for a drain plug at the bottom/underneaththe tank if you want to drain all the fluid.  If the fluid is good, then you can put it back in the tank.  Personally I'd replace the fluid on a used model if I didn't know the last time it had been changed or what type it is

Typical hydraulic fluid in today's splitters is around 20 weight (SAE20, 10W-20, ISO46, or similar).  If you want something thinner for cold weather, ATF will work.  I use the most inexpensive stuff from Tractor Supply, which usually ends up being ISO46 or 10W-20.

Get a proper return hose rated for conveying hydraulic fluid and simliar oils.  This will be able to withstand the temperature and pressure of the hydraulic fluid.  A typical return line on today's splitters is rated up to 300 psi.  Make sure it's the proper diameter for your fittings.

I'd also look into replacing those rusted fittings, as they look like regular plumbing fittings and not hydraulic fittings rated for higher pressures.  Even though the return line doesn't have nearly as high pressure, I'd still replace them.

Use something like Permatex high temperature sealant for hydraulics around fittings (available at Tractor Supply stores).


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## TreePointer (Feb 18, 2012)

I think I can visualize your cap problem, but it's not completely clear.  Regardless, you need not worry too much about a perfect seal.  The caps on splitter hydraulic reservoirs need to keep dirt/dust/materials from contaminating the fluid, but they often have a built-in breather valve or small hole to allow for hydraulic fluid expansion in the reservoir.


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## Hogwildz (Feb 18, 2012)

I just got the cap off, in pcs of course. Guess I'll have to see if threaded pip will work and find some type of breather cap.
I don't want to touch any more than I have to, as nothing on this has ever been touched, and don't want more crap breaking right now.
The plastic from the cap fell inside, so now I guess I'll have to drain it. Didn't even look to see if there is a drain plug yet.
Here we go again, simple hose turning into 5 more projects.


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## TreePointer (Feb 18, 2012)

Hogwildz said:
			
		

> Here we go again, simple hose turning into 5 more projects.



Heehee!  Ain't that how it most always happens.


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## basod (Feb 19, 2012)

You do know this is what duck tape was invented for?

Seriously though you don't need any high pressure hose for this, just something that won't collapse and is compatible with oil.
Standard Hydo oil is fine, these aren't running additives(which are what form precipitates when oils are mixed)
You can put one of these on the return line:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_12006_12006
tractor supply has them as well.
As far as the cap goes not sure where that thread type can be procured


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## Hogwildz (Feb 19, 2012)

Well, no body had crap as far as auto/hardware stores. I did get a small 3-1/2" section of threaded 1" pipe and an end cap for it to make a new fill tube/cap if needed.
I stopped at TSC, and they only had pressure hose with the ends, which is rated at 2200PSI. So I bought it. $23.00 so not that bad.
They also had a new breather/fill cap replacement for the old fords, spring type slip on/in, and I saw the hydraulic tank they sell there had the same fill neck size as mine, and had the ford type breather cap on it. So it got it.
Of course I bought a new drain pan and 2 gallons of hydr. fluid(universal). I am going to have to drain it anyways as the pcs of the old POS plastic cap fell inside the tank. I'll strain the old and top off with the new. Its still clear and in good shape. Not sure how I will get the remaining chunk of plastic cap out of the tank, as it is most likely larger than the drain hole. I looked at the in line spin on filter they had, didn't want to spend another $35.00.
I already got over $80.00 into it with this crap already. We'll see.
I did get a swivel fitting so I can at least get one end of the hose on & tight, then use the swivel fitting to finish the other end.
What a PITA, but has to be done. That is tomorrow's project. Hoping to get more split afterwards.


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## MasterMech (Feb 19, 2012)

Sounds like you've got it well in hand Hogz.  If you do use your homemade cap make sure you drill a 1/16" hole in the end cap to let the tank breathe.


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## Hogwildz (Feb 19, 2012)

MasterMech said:
			
		

> Sounds like you've got it well in hand Hogz.  If you do use your homemade cap make sure you drill a 1/16" hole in the end cap to let the tank breathe.


Actually, I found a beather/fill cap on Northern Tool/s website, looks like they have a the plastic one in 3/4", but I need 1" and don't want no POS plastic one anyways. They do have a chromed metal one at 1". Its cheaper than this old Ford style one I got at TSC. Gonna use what I got for now though. No sense overthinking it. Both are breather type.
I am hoping it has a suctions strainer inside. I will see when I drain it.
Thanks again for they help.


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## leaddog (Feb 19, 2012)

A very good breather cap can be made out of most any oil filter. just tip it upside down and screw it on to a pipe. They are better than the boughten ones as they are finner filter( usually 10 micron) and will keep out any airborn dirt. You can usually find new ones at yard sales that maybe have had the package opened etc. for $.25 or less. A hyd. tank does a lot of breathing and that is the major source of contamination from the dust in the air.
leaddog


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## Hogwildz (Feb 20, 2012)

All done.
Relatively painless.
Drained the tank out of the return line fitting on the tank. AHoles didn't ever put a drain hole/plug on the thing., but could not get all the fluid out and could not see if a strainer is in place. I didn't want to take the supply line off.
I did use a pc of 14g electrical wire, fashioned a hook on the end and fished out the broken pc of the old plastic cap back out the fill neck.
The hose is overkill, but I like stuff that way, and it was all I had access to.
I put a new hydraulic fitting at the valve body and eliminated the old one at the tank and just threaded the hose end directly to the tank fitting.
The cap I made out of a pc of 3/4" threaded pipe, and put a standard pipe cap on top.
I drilled 5 holes in the very upper part of the cap sides, and took the old foam filter and s.s. screen from the old POS cap and fixed them up inside the new home made cap.
Permatex HIgh temp thread sealer on all fittings.
Split a bit and all is perfect.
Oh. also put 2 gallons on new universal hydraulic fluid and topped it off with about another 1/3-1/2 gallon of the fluid I drained out.

On a side note. I looked at the other north star splitters and looks like this one is about the equivalent of the 30 ton.
My neighbor said he paid $1,600.00 for it new back then. And it is in about that price range.
I bought it for $400.00 and put another $60.00 or so into it. Works for me.

Also is a pic of the POS plastic cap that disintegrated the minute I tried to unscrew it. Junk!


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