# Husky 555 vs 460



## Oldman47 (Feb 24, 2015)

I am not presently a wood burner but have started to put together next year's wood supply. I am building on a mostly forested 40 acres plot so plenty to choose from. I looked out the back windows of my new home yesterday and spotted enough dead and down for next year;s wood supply, right from what I can see from the house. I need a chain saw to start processing wood and was considering using a Husky 460 with a 20 inch bar. When I did some Google searches I kept turning up opinions that the model 555 was a better saw. My real question is not whether either saw will work, I think either one would do the job. The question is whether there is enough difference between the saws to justify the added $150 cost of the 555.


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## mikey517 (Feb 24, 2015)

Yes!

A few years ago, I was in the same boat; looking for a better saw to cut about 4 - 5 cord a year for myself. I was looking hard at the Husky 460. My local dealer did not have one in stock, and suggested the 353, essentially a de-tuned 346XP with mag case, lighter, and a more "robust" machine all around.
One of the best decisions I ever made.

The 555 is a "de-tuned" 562XP, meaning same construction as the pro-level saw. I believe it has basically the same specs as the 353, i.e., 50cc / 3.4 hp. Pretty sure the 555 is basically the new replacement but with Auto-tune.

I don't think you will be sorry with the upgrade.


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## Jon1270 (Feb 24, 2015)

mikey517 said:


> The 555 is a "de-tuned" 562XP, meaning same construction as the pro-level saw. I believe it has basically the same specs as the 353, i.e., 50cc / 3.4 hp. Pretty sure the 555 is basically the new replacement but with Auto-tune.



The 555 is 59.8cc and 4.3HP at 12.35 pounds.  It's basically the next size up from the 353.  By comparison the 460 is heavier (by about 3.5%), weaker (almost 19% less horsepower), and less likely to be worth fixing should you ever have a significant mechanical problem with it.  The 555 is a much better machine.



Oldman47 said:


> The question is whether there is enough difference between the saws to justify the added $150 cost of the 555.



I suppose that depends on what $150 is to you, but it's also worth noting that you can pick up a 555 on eBay anytime you want for about $100 less than MSRP, and might be able to do even better with one of the dealers on A.S.


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## mikey517 (Feb 24, 2015)

Jon1270 said:


> The 555 is 59.8cc and 4.3HP at 12.35 pounds.  It's basically the next size up from the 353.  By comparison the 460 is heavier (by about 3.5%), weaker (almost 19% less horsepower), and less likely to be worth fixing should you ever have a significant mechanical problem with it.  The 555 is a much better machine.
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose that depends on what $150 is to you, but it's also worth noting that you can pick up a 555 on eBay anytime you want for about $100 less than MSRP, and might be able to do even better with one of the dealers on A.S.



Oppose, my bad! I was quoting the 545 specs. Thanks for fixing my error. But either way, I think the 555 is well worth the upgrade.


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## deranged (Feb 24, 2015)

I have regretted getting my 555 for heavy firewood use exactly 0 times.  The 460 is a decent saw, and you may not regret getting it, but then if you ever happened to run something outside of the consumer grades of saws, you would likely regret it.


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## TreePointer (Feb 25, 2015)

555.  More hp and AutoTune seals the deal for me.


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## KodiakII (Feb 27, 2015)

555 is a very capable mid sized saw, I always wanted a 357, but when the 555 came out (as a replacement for the 357) it wasn't much of a struggle to drop the hammer on one.


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## Mike M. (Feb 28, 2015)

Yes! Go for the 555...look online for the best deal and see if a local dealer will match the price. Do yourself a favor and pickup a Oregon LGX (blue cutter) chain or a Stihl chain for it. The low kick back box store chains are low quality. Also, never use the saw with anything but ethanol free fuel.


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## Oldman47 (Feb 28, 2015)

Mike M. said:


> Yes! Go for the 555...look online for the best deal and see if a local dealer will match the price. Do yourself a favor and pickup a Oregon LGX (blue cutter) chain or a Stihl chain for it. The low kick back box store chains are low quality. Also, never use the saw with anything but ethanol free fuel.


I would love to do that but everything within 100 miles is 10% ethanol. I do see the local big box store recommending nothing but high octane fuel on a big sign behind the Husky display though. Unfortunately there are no local dealers for Husky near me except the big box stores and they carry nothing bigger than the 450 farmer version. Even a 460 or a 455 would be a special order, which means MSRP or darned close to it. I suppose I am stuck dealing with E-bay or similar for my saw. Chain is another story. The local Stihl store also services the saws and has a nice chain selection. In fact I am taking my old Stihl in Monday to get it in good running condition after being idle all these years. I'll need to check into the better chain. Unfortunately my 026 uses a .325 chain so not as many robust chains out there for it.


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## TreePointer (Feb 28, 2015)

Oldman47 said:


> Unfortunately my 026 uses a .325 chain so not as many robust chains out there for it.



??

I'd say there are plenty of quality .325 pitch chains in the market.  Stihl makes it in various flavors (chisel, semi-chisel, regular (yellow), low kickback (green), various gauges).  Oregon/Husqvarna has even more .325 options, including narrow kerf chain if you need it.


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## ironworker (Mar 1, 2015)

The .325 chains are the same as 3/8 or what ever else is out there. And if there is a good stihl dealer close by why not just get yourself a stihl. You already have a 50cc, you should be looking into getting a 441 or 461, they might be a little more expensive than the husky 555, but five years down the road you won't remember what you paid but glad you did, good luck and I would hurry up if I were you, that hot weather sneaks upon us and cutting in hot weather sucks.


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## mikey517 (Mar 1, 2015)

Oldman47 said:


> I would love to do that but everything within 100 miles is 10% ethanol. I do see the local big box store recommending nothing but high octane fuel on a big sign behind the Husky display though. Unfortunately there are no local dealers for Husky near me except the big box stores and they carry nothing bigger than the 450 farmer version. Even a 460 or a 455 would be a special order, which means MSRP or darned close to it. I suppose I am stuck dealing with E-bay or similar for my saw. Chain is another story. The local Stihl store also services the saws and has a nice chain selection. In fact I am taking my old Stihl in Monday to get it in good running condition after being idle all these years. I'll need to check into the better chain. Unfortunately my 026 uses a .325 chain so not as many robust chains out there for it.


As others have said, contact one of the dealers here or over at AS. There are several. Spike60 and Terry are two that come to mind.I have met and been to Spike60's shop, and many members at AS have dealt with both Terry & Spike60 and been very pleased. And don't fret about the .325 chain; tons of wood has been cut with .325 NK chain, (think 346XP).


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## BobUrban (Mar 1, 2015)

Yes - the .325 on the right saw is a ripper.  Less curf so faster cut.  I have arguably the best 50cc homeowner saw ever made(opinion of many) the Husky 350 - which is the HO version of the 346xp(best pro 50ish CC saw)  and can be rebuilt as a 346xp if and when it dies.  This saw runs a .325 chain and has procured a LOT of fire wood for me.


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## deranged (Mar 3, 2015)

FWIW, I purchased my 555 from a local(ish) dealer, not a smoking deal, but not MSRP either.  However, even that was a 40 minute drive.  It was the first AutoTune saw he'd sold, and he had to order it for me. 

Early Feb I purchased a 576xp AutoTune from Spike60, and wouldn't hesitate to buy anything additional from him for a second, great guy to deal with.  In fact I'm lining up and order for some spare parts now.


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## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Mar 3, 2015)

You have 40 acres there, to me that means a never ending supply, so that alone says to me is listen to these guys and don't talk yourself into saving some money on a purchase like this. If your going to be doing some serious cutting, go with the upgrade so you don't regret it later, that's my opinion....
But in my case, I'd only be shopping for a Stihl.....


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## pen (Mar 3, 2015)

Love my 555.  Looked at the 460, but with less hp and more weight, for the slight bit extra cost to go to a higher grade saw, I didn't look back and don't regret it a bit.

Very happy with it.


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## Oldman47 (Mar 3, 2015)

I am starting to zero on on the 555 myself guys. I have reviewed the owner's manual so I would know what the required routine maintenance is and I am encouraged by what I find compared to the Jonsered and Echo manuals that I also reviewed at their respective 60cc engine size. I will still be trying to resurrect my Stihl 026 but that will likely take a back seat to getting a good price on that triple nickel.


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## Creekside (Mar 3, 2015)

Oldman47 said:


> I am starting to zero on on the 555 myself guys. I have reviewed the owner's manual so I would know what the required routine maintenance is and I am encouraged by what I find compared to the Jonsered and Echo manuals that I also reviewed at their respective 60cc engine size. I will still be trying to resurrect my Stihl 026 but that will likely take a back seat to getting a good price on that triple nickel.



An 026 that runs good with a sharp chain works great with a 20" bar, so Don't rule out that saw unless it has a major issue.  And I agree with the other guys you won't regret spending more on a high quality saw.  I've mostly only run pro saws and every once in a while I pick up a "homeowner" type saw and can't believe the difference.  

And learn how to properly sharpen a chain and keep it sharp!  That is the single biggest thing you can do to make cutting enjoyable.  It's a lot easier to touch up a chain every tank or two than to wait all day and spend a lot more time getting it back to good condition.  It will also save you a lot of energy and is safer.


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## Oldman47 (Mar 3, 2015)

Thanks for that Creekside.


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## Isaiah53 (Mar 3, 2015)

I don't question that the 555 is a very capable saw and I do not want to start a Husky vs. Stihl debate, but I do question why you are sold on the Husky when you have no local dealer support.  I consider dealer support far more important than minor differences in performance for a pro grade saw.  I would not expect your Stihl dealer to be able to service the Auto Tune system of a 555.  You will likely end up shipping your saw off to one of the reputable dealers mentioned on AS if this type of work is needed.  That may be acceptable to you, but I would certainly buy it from one of them to start with as recommended by others in this thread rather than E-bay.


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## Ashful (Mar 3, 2015)

I'm a fan of the multiple-saw plan, as anything big enough to cut everything is usually heavier than I want to carry all day.  Here's my perfect plan:

35cc top handle:  limbing and marking lengths
60cc with 18" or 20" bar:  bucking up to 20"
85cc with 28" bar:  felling and bucking over 20"

I used to also have a 130cc with a 40" bar on that list, but found anything that required that monster was just more than I could move.  I now refuse anything over 50" diameter, esp. big oak.

If I were just starting out today, I'd buy the 60cc first, the 35cc second, and the 85cc last.  Oh, and I would NOT buy Husky again.  My Stihl's are so vastly superior in every way but price, to any Husky I have owned.


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## Oldman47 (Mar 3, 2015)

Isaiah, I do have a dealer about 30 miles from my new home so I have access to a dealer for routine service. I have yet to even contact them because I don't want them all excited about a sale they may never get. In my mind that disappointment would be worse than not even knowing I exist.


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## drz1050 (Mar 4, 2015)

The Echo 590 beats the Husky 460, and is a much better value. The Husky 555 beats the Echo.

If you get a Husky, great! Don't get the 460 though.. that saw is just living off the name. The Stihl MS290 is in the same camp- don't get that one either. The Stihl MS362 is a good saw, maybe give that one a look.

Edit: I'm not bashing the 460 or the 290.. they're both fine saws... if you could find one for <$400. They're not worth any more than that, the name is the only reason their price is inflated.


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## jeffesonm (Mar 4, 2015)

Joful said:


> I'm a fan of the multiple-saw plan, as anything big enough to cut everything is usually heavier than I want to carry all day. Here's my perfect plan:
> 35cc top handle: limbing and marking lengths
> 60cc with 18" or 20" bar: bucking up to 20"
> 85cc with 28" bar: felling and bucking over 20"
> ...


This.

Also if I already had a 50cc saw I would be thinking about a 80cc saw not a 60cc saw.

*edit* And a good filing guide... I just bought the $30 Granberg File-n-Joint after using a free handing with a Dremel for years.  100x better.  A 50cc saw with a sharp chain cuts faster than a 60cc with an okay chain.


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## Oldman47 (Mar 4, 2015)

Well today I took my 026 to a local small engine guy and hope to get it back this Friday. I had suggested that maybe I needed a carb rebuild to refresh all soft parts and a new fuel pickup and impulse hose. He told me the fuel hose and carb rebuild looked like a good idea but we should wait and see on the impulse hose since it only deals with air, not fuel.  Now I get to wait to hear from him on what he finds tomorrow. When we were BSing I mentioned that I had been eying a possible Husky 555 purchase and he told me he had just finished up a service this morning on a MS 362 and that person, a lawn and yard care guy, had told him he really didn't need a saw that big. I may have fallen into a very good price on a MS 362 which of course would remove any desire for that triple nickle.


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## Ashful (Mar 4, 2015)

The MS362 is likely the very best firewood cutting saw ever made.


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## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Mar 4, 2015)

At what kind of price.....


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## CRE10 (Mar 4, 2015)

Your 026 is already a great firewood saw, but it's nice having two saws. Is the 362 M tronic?

I don't know how old "Oldman" means, but you're not getting younger. 50cc firewood saws can go a long ways with a sharp chain. I'm young and in great shape and I feel it after a day with a 70cc saw and long bar.


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## Wildo (Mar 4, 2015)

AHEM!


http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...6af40002b8f7/143befb4304fc0be88256ca400553ebe


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## Oldman47 (Mar 5, 2015)

CRE10 said:


> Your 026 is already a great firewood saw, but it's nice having two saws. Is the 362 M tronic?
> 
> I don't know how old "Oldman" means, but you're not getting younger. 50cc firewood saws can go a long ways with a sharp chain. I'm young and in great shape and I feel it after a day with a 70cc saw and long bar.


I am oldman47 because my wife has called me old man since I was 25 years old and I was born in 1947, yes well over a half a century back.
I have only today heard of the used 362 so I really know nothing about it except that it is probably well used with a history of being used by a maintenance service. Those are all the questions I would need to ask before moving on it. I already have a solid manual type chain saw in a 20 inch so another just like it in a 60cc is not much of an improvement. On the other hand an auto-tune 60cc that I don't need to mess with is appealing. That is why I was looking into a Husky 555.


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## Clyde S. Dale (Mar 5, 2015)

Oldman47 said:


> I am oldman47 because my wife has called me old man since I was 25 years old and I was born in 1947, yes well over a half a century back.
> I have only today heard of the used 362 so I really know nothing about it except that it is probably well used with a history of being used by a maintenance service. Those are all the questions I would need to ask before moving on it. I already have a solid manual type chain saw in a 20 inch so another just like it in a 30cc is not much of an improvement. On the other hand an auto-tune 30cc that I don't meed to mess with is appealing. That is why I was looking into a Husky 555.


 
If the 362 is a C-M model, it has Stihl's version of Autotune (M-tronic). An MS362 should outcut the 555 and be right there in performance with the 562xp.


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## Ralphie Boy (Mar 5, 2015)

Oldman47 said:


> I would love to do that but everything within 100 miles is 10% ethanol. I do see the local big box store recommending nothing but high octane fuel on a big sign behind the Husky display though. Unfortunately there are no local dealers for Husky near me except the big box stores and they carry nothing bigger than the 450 farmer version. Even a 460 or a 455 would be a special order, which means MSRP or darned close to it. I suppose I am stuck dealing with E-bay or similar for my saw. Chain is another story. The local Stihl store also services the saws and has a nice chain selection. In fact I am taking my old Stihl in Monday to get it in good running condition after being idle all these years. I'll need to check into the better chain. Unfortunately my 026 uses a .325 chain so not as many robust chains out there for it.


Home Depot sells 50 to1 pre-mixed, 92 octane fuel for about $5.95 a quart if you by 6. Way more money than purchasing from a gas pump, but in the end way cheaper than carb repair/replacement and all the other hassles of gas station ethanol laced fuel. It's all I use in ally saws and I've never had a problem and I don't worry about a saw sitting for 4 weeks and the gas going "bad".


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## Oldman47 (Mar 5, 2015)

Thanks for that Clyde. It remains to be seen which model it really is. 
For Ralphie Boy, I find it real easy to drop into my local gas station and drop a pre-measured 50:1 mix of oil in a gas can and then pump exactly one gallon at 92+ octane into that gas can. If I only use 2/3 of it I can always dump what I have left into my car with no ill effects. The extra $4.50 a quart is ridiculous IMO.


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## TreePointer (Mar 5, 2015)

I'll use the non-ethanol canned fuel at the end of a season when I prepare my OPE for winter storage.  Other than that, it's entirely too expensive for the amount of fuel I use.


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## pen (Mar 5, 2015)

This link can help too.  http://pure-gas.org/

Have had 2 gas stations that switched to serving high octane non-ethanol in my area in the last year.  Keep on the look-out for your area too!


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## Ashful (Mar 5, 2015)

TreePointer said:


> I'll use the non-ethanol canned fuel at the end of a season when I prepare my OPE for winter storage.  Other than that, it's entirely too expensive for the amount of fuel I use.


I'm with you.  Even my saw shop, who sells the stuff, tells customers to only use it for storage.  It's just crazy expensive, for anyone actually putting any real amount of fuel thru their OPE, and its advantage is nil for a regular-use machine.


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## Osagebndr (Mar 6, 2015)

Your 026 is first generation Stihl pro saw. The 362 will cut circles around it as will a 261 pro . Not trying to talk you out if a 60 cc saw ( I have a 361 that I love dearly) but if the 362 or 555 are a little heavy the 261 and the 550xp are also exceptional firewood saws at a lighter weight .


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## Jon1270 (Mar 6, 2015)

Osagebndr said:


> a 261 pro...will cut circles around it



Eh, not big circles.  A 261CM has about 20% more horsepower, yes, but the 026 is still a quite capable saw, not to be dismissed.  It's also more than a pound lighter than the 261.


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## Clyde S. Dale (Mar 8, 2015)

Nice 562xp went up on AS this morning. Sugihara bar comes with it.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/562xp.274954/


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## wildlingabovethebridge (Mar 14, 2015)

FWIW I just picked up a 460 from www.sleequipment.com for $403 + $15 shipping. So far I love it. Starts easy (fires on first pull, starts on second), lighter than other saws of that size class that ive dealt with, and screams through all of the woood I've thrown at it so far. I dont even need to get it up to full power most of the time. Time will tell on reliability. Admittedly, I cut 6 cord last year with a 34cc Poulan so any saw actually big enough to do the job and doesn't break is gonna seem great to me.


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## Ashful (Mar 14, 2015)

60cc is the sweet spot for most firewood cutters.  Big enough to sling a 20" bar, screams with an 18" bar.  For the 12" - 18" wood that most firewood cutters are seeing daily, it's the perfect size.

It does fall short any time you get the nose of a 20" bar buried in something bigger than 20".  It will get thru, but just not as quickly as a larger saw.

I use my 63cc Stihl 036 Pro for bucking anything under 20", and the 064 (85cc) for anything over 20".  I may upgrade to newer saws someday, but they will be the same ~60 and ~90 cc sizes.


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## Oldman47 (Mar 14, 2015)

I think I agree Joful. My 026 is a 50cc and sports a 20 inch bar of .325 semi-chisel chain but struggles a little when I get up close to 20 inches when falling or bucking. I was thinking that 60cc would let me carry that same length bar with a bit of power to spare. 
Since I started to do my homework I have also found that sometimes it is OK to completely bury a saw so that you can fall or buck logs bigger than the bar length. It just takes the right techniques and tools like wedges. The last time I used a saw there was no internet, yes that long ago, and I had to rely on manufacturer literature. Needless to say the booklets were a bit lacking in details.


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## pen (Mar 14, 2015)

Oldman47 said:


> it is OK to completely bury a saw so that you can fall or buck logs bigger than the bar length. It just takes the right techniques and tools like wedges.



I'm no guru, but for me, when I wind up in a log bigger than my bar, I start at the top and let the nose of the bar drop to cut down the outside edge of the log, then bring myself back down through the log square.  This lets the the tip be "free" as it goes down through.


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## midwestcoast (Mar 14, 2015)

pen said:


> I'm no guru, but for me, when I wind up in a log bigger than my bar, I start at the top and let the nose of the bar drop to cut down the outside edge of the log, then bring myself back down through the log square.  This lets the the tip be "free" as it goes down through.


How I buck most the logs dropped for me by the tree services.


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## Ashful (Mar 14, 2015)

Yep, standard technique for anything with diameter up to 1.5 times your bar length.  Reach over, holding saw with nose pointed down, and begin cut on far side.  As you get far enough into the wood to make the rest of the cut from one side, draw the saw toward you until horizontal.

For stuff larger than that, and up to 2x bar length, you're stuck working both sides.  Once you're past that, then you're into middle-plunge cut territory.

There was a great thread here, maybe two years ago, of someone taking down a 70-something inch tree with a fairly small (28"?) bar.  Wish I could find it now.


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## Osagebndr (Mar 15, 2015)

I've taken down and bucked trees upto 48" with my ms361 and 24"(25") bar without much problem using that technique when bucking . When taking down I work both sides of the tree on the wedge and back cut. Using felling wedges when felling and bucking will keep your bar from being pinched also


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