# Best splitting maul?



## Nofossil

Building off of Axeman's thread on chopping axes, how about some feedback of splitting axes / mauls?

I borrow a log splitter once a year, but I split lots of stuff by hand. We also get lots of flatland visitors who need a dose of authentic country living, so we fill 'em up with homemade pancakes and send them out to the woodpile to split some rounds.

Last year, I went through four wooden handles for my splitting maul. Seems like the handles are made of cr*p wood, and they break even without being abused (and much quicker when you do abuse them). I remember splitting wood for several seasons with a single handle in my otherwise mis-spent youth.

The center axe in the photo below has the last generation of handle-protection technology: 3/16" fiber-reinforced EPDM shock absorption layer, fiberglass tape, formed titanium(!) impact spreading sheet, aircraft cable wrapping. After cracking the handle, my testosterone-poisoned teenager added a layer of duct tape just to be safe 

For me, a seven or eight pound head on a 34" or 36" handle is just the right balance. I like the feel of wood handles.

I bought the cute little Fiskar's splitting axe just for fun. It splits wood with amazingly little effort, and the axe style handle is great. However, it's so short that I can't really use it, and it's a little light for serious splitting. It's the first synthetic handle that I've liked.

What are people using out there? Is there a source for high quality replacement handles? Is there a make or model that beats the crude and lumpy made-in-India/China models that seem to be the only thing out there now?

Thanks for any help in this quest.


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## Eric Johnson

I use a cheap, 8-pound, blunt-edged maul that takes a standard sledge handle. Easier and cheaper to replace. My maul came with a fiberglass handle, but it lasted about 2 weeks. I didn't like the feel of the plastic on my hands, anyway.

What I do is mix up some epoxy and smear it all over everything before mounting the head to the handle, then use it to seal up the top where it comes through the top of the head. Two things that will kill a maul handle pretty quick (aside from the obvious) are loose heads and moisture. Keep both at bay and your handle will last until you abuse it one time too many. Another trick is to get white ash handles when you can. The hickory handles are too brittle and will split too easily.

How do I get the remnants of the old handle out of the head? I stick it in the fireplace for about 10 minutes and burn it out. Anneal the head? Doubtful.

EDIT: Obviously, you don't want to lend your maul to carpniels if you want it to last. Actually, I broke mine last weekend, too, Niels, so I guess we're in the same boat.


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## carpniels

HI no fossil,

Good thread. Especially, since I was able to crack the head on my Fiskars this weekend. Yep, you read it, I broke and 'unbreakable' handle. And I didn't even try. I was splitting some pine someone gave me. and I was hacking the branches off. CRACK, and there it was: the handle had a split all the way around the head and somewhat down the shaft.

Now I got to find the paperwork and receipt to see if I can get a new one. 

Carpniels


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## Nofossil

The maul with the red plastic guard on it was a cheap blunt unit. I was able to dramatically improve its performance by grinding the snot out of the head so that it wasn't quite so blunt. Having used the Fiskars, I'd say I improved the performance from 1 on a scale of 10 to at least 3 out of 10...

I like the wooden handle, but the tool feels cheap and shoddily made. 

Good heads-up on the Fiskars - I think it's going to be for the use of my vertically challenged helpers, who are less likely to break it.

I think I want a man-sized version of the Fiskars head mounted on a real replaceable white ash handle.

When I go to any of the local hardware stores and ask what a maul handle is made of, I think the only answer I'll get is "wood". I have a feeling I'll get a blank stare if I ask for white ash - any suggestions on how to clearly identify the species used in a replacement handle?


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## Eric Johnson

Hickory tends to be darker wood with black or dark brown grain streaks. White ash is a lot lighter, and the grain less pronounced. If it looks like a baseball bat, it's probably white ash. And WA and Hickory are usually your only two options for handles, if you have options at all.

There are two schools of thought on maul head design. I prefer a blunt edge because I think blunt force trauma is more effective than slicing action when splitting wood.


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## Nofossil

Eric Johnson said:
			
		

> Hickory tends to be darker wood with black or dark brown grain streaks. White ash is a lot lighter, and the grain less pronounced. If it looks like a baseball bat, it's probably white ash. And WA and Hickory are usually your only two options for handles, if you have options at all.
> 
> There are two schools of thought on maul head design. I prefer a blunt edge because I think blunt force trauma is more effective than slicing action when splitting wood.



Thanks - I was concerned that some of the handles that appear to be ash might be something else. I've also seen a third wood - white and very close-grained. I think it comes from a tropical rainforest or wherever China/India can get wood most cheaply. It seems to be very common, and it's not hickory or white ash.

After using a series of mauls that range from very blunt/convex to kinda sharp/straight to razor sharp/concave, I now give much more credence to the 'foot in the door, then crank up the force' school of thought. The Fiskars head is actually concave on both faces. Requires dramatically less force.


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## Eric Johnson

Maybe I'll bring my maul when I stop by with the beer. Then we can see which is actually better.


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## DriftWood

Any steel handle maul. I have two Schultz Monster Mauls I bought new in the 1980s. The handles will never brake.  And not hitting the the head with anything but wood they should be here in another 30 years.


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## JustWood

Monster mauls it is . I bought 2 in 89 and have split well over a thousand cord since and no broken handles.  Have probably only sharpened each one 3 times.  Best investment I ever made being in the firewood business. " If you can't break it open with a monster maul you might as well leave it in the woods"


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## Mmaul

I love reading all these questions and answers finally something I can really get into, I use a all steal maul it's 14.5 pounds. This maul was my Dads he used it for many seasons and I inherited it and love it, there is also a matching 8# maul at his house that was my moms, I should try and get my hands on. I also have a fiberglass 8# maul which I dont care much for, the handle need replaced on after only one season. I do also like to use a wood grenade and a sledge just to break big trunk piece in half, this makes it easier to split with the big maul.


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## titan

I must check to see if any body carries Monster Mauls up here,I've never seen one in these parts.My Super splitter gets the nod here;I believe it's a 6lb. flared face that allows you to hit rounds with a mean head speed.Works a little better than a regular maul IMO.


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## Nofossil

Titan said:
			
		

> I must check to see if any body carries Monster Mauls up here,I've never seen one in these parts.My Super splitter gets the nod here;I believe it's a 6lb. flared face that allows you to hit rounds with a mean head speed.Works a little better than a regular maul IMO.



I found one online that said it was a 4lb head - seems a little light, but the handle's the right length. Do they make more than one model?

I've used steel handled mauls and really heavy mauls / sledge hammers - I prefer a handle that has a little give to it, and a head that's light enough to get some speed. If the Super Splitter comes in a six pound version, I'll have to give it a try.


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## titan

Nofossil,I could be wrong,it's happened before!I thought it was a six pound head,but I never weighed it  either.Whatever it is,I've used multiple axes and mauls of varying weights, and I'm more impressed with this WOODEN-HANDLED Super Splitter .


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## Nofossil

Titan said:
			
		

> Nofossil,I could be wrong,it's happened before!I thought it was a six pound head,but I never weighed it  either.Whatever it is,I've used multiple axes and mauls of varying weights, and I'm more impressed with this WOODEN-HANDLED Super Splitter .



What wooden handled super splitter? The only one I could find was a red Ames/True Temper fiberglass model and this antique. Do you know of a source for the one you're talking about? How long is the handle?


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## Deerlope

The best maul  should be in a deep sink hole. I am old school and I was taught to split using a double bit axe. Just a twist of the wrist is all that is necessary. No heavy mauls or brute force.


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## DriftWood

Titan said:
			
		

> I must check to see if any body carries Monster Mauls up here,I've never seen one in these parts.My Super splitter gets the nod here;I believe it's a 6lb. flared face that allows you to hit rounds with a mean head speed.Works a little better than a regular maul IMO.



Stoltz is out of busness. The design is still for sale.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200325119_200325119

http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(tey5afnyna2ncozg2pn1eb55)


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## Nofossil

Deerlope said:
			
		

> The best maul  should be in a deep sink hole. I am old school and I was taught to split using a double bit axe. Just a twist of the wrist is all that is necessary. No heavy mauls or brute force.



I'm a pretty dedicated axe user, but I find that the thinner head on my chopping axes will bind when trying to split any knotty piece of wood. I'm with you on weight, though. I prefer speed and control to brute force. I take some pride in being able to hit the same spot repeatedly.

My hope in starting this thread is to discover a range of tools that do a better job of splitting than what I have. I think that an axe-like tool with a slightly thicker, heavier, and differently shaped head might just be the ticket.


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## WILDSOURDOUGH

I have a maul- but one of my favorite tools is my 18" long x 1/4" thick peice of a leaf spring. 
I sharpened one side of it and use my sledge to pound on the other side- kinda like a splitting froe.
It works great, and is Very handy for spliting kindling too. Hicory is the only wood for any kind of handle-
except maybe Coco Bolo- which I have never seen a peice bigger than a foot long.


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## DiscoInferno

I have a super splitter with a 4lb head and a plastic-coated fiberglass handle, a standard 6lb maul with a hickory (I think) handle, and a 12-lb monster I just picked up this summer.  I like the feel and balance of the super splitter, and for a lot of wood it's all that is needed, but it gets stuck far more often than the maul because it's too thin until past halfway back when the wings start.  Usually with the maul, it's split or bounce.  I don't really have a preference between wood and fiberglass handles, but I don't like the shape of the maul handle (more flat) as much as the super splitter (more round and contoured).  The monster I've barely used (no tough wood recently), but it's too heavy for "production" splitting for me.


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## titan

Here's what I'm using nofossil,$49.99 @ local hardware store,works well.
Made by Garant:4 lbs,36" hickory handle.


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## Eric Johnson

nofossil said:
			
		

> Deerlope said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The best maul  should be in a deep sink hole. I am old school and I was taught to split using a double bit axe. Just a twist of the wrist is all that is necessary. No heavy mauls or brute force.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a pretty dedicated axe user, but I find that the thinner head on my chopping axes will bind when trying to split any knotty piece of wood. I'm with you on weight, though. I prefer speed and control to brute force. I take some pride in being able to hit the same spot repeatedly.
> 
> My hope in starting this thread is to discover a range of tools that do a better job of splitting than what I have. I think that an axe-like tool with a slightly thicker, heavier, and differently shaped head might just be the ticket.
Click to expand...


I've become pretty good at hitting the same spot every time (that's the trick, after all), but I like to do it with a heavier head. I have a 6-pound maul that I use from time to time, and it doesn't compare at all to the 8 when it comes to splitting wood.


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## jqgs214

I use the 8# home cheapo yellow FG handle.  Works for me.  Grew up with a 6 pound wood handle.  Worked for me too.  I'm not picky.  If it dont split the first time just hit it again, and again, and again and again.  If it dont split chuck it.


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## Nofossil

Titan said:
			
		

> Here's what I'm using nofossil,$49.99 @ local hardware store,works well.
> Made by Garant:4 lbs,36" hickory handle.



Looks great. Appears to be a Canada-only item even Home Depot in Canada has them. No one in the states, though. I guess it will give me an excuse to visit hardware stores on our next trip north...

Anyone know of a US source for this or a similar item?


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## kevinlp

I use a Wood Grenade with an 8 lb sledgehammer.


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## Heartwood

Some of the posts here remind me of an old woodsman's tale that comes to mind whenever I hear of people breathing life into old standby's: "Yep, been using the same axe for 30 years; only ever replaced the handle thrice and the head twice."

I'm a Schultz monster mauler too, and was sad to hear they're out of buisness, though mines been there and back and there's still paint on the bit.  Mauls are subjective though; I've never been able to get through wood with anything as well as with the monster, but I've have friends to camp who split as much as I, and they'd swing that thing and cuss and say it's the damnedest, most awkward piece of junk they'd ever thrown at wood.  Then they'd go the shed and get a sledge and wedge.


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## Cazimere

I like a full compliment of weapons when i split wood, but a sharp ax does the bulk of the work : )


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## Nofossil

The more I review my style and my preferences, the more I realize that I'm an axe partisan. I've used heavier sledges and mauls, but I've never felt as effective with anything over 10 pounds. I really feel best with a splitting maul that's six or seven pounds, and I'd love to try an axe with a splitting head in the five pound range.


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## Lignums

This axe is be best I have used in many years.  It does not get stuck, kill your back, and can blast through anything.


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## DiscoInferno

Lignums said:
			
		

> This axe is be best I have used in many years.  It does not get stuck, kill your back, and can blast through anything.



What's your secret?  I have that one, or one very much like it, and it gets stuck all the time.  I do like it and do the bulk of my splitting with it, but it does get stuck when it doesn't penetrate far enough for the "wings" to kick in.


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## Lignums

Perhaps I was too zealous when I said it will blast through anything...I have no problem with Black Locust, Any kind of Oak, Some Maples, ( all depends on the twist of the wood).  The hardest things to split with it are the Elms, and Gums.  I like to think of it as kind of like golf.  Over the head, and swing through the wood with a slow and short wind up.  Pratically averything I split is with that.  If that ax will not do the trick, a few wedges and a 10# sledge will.  And if that fails, fire up the Hydraulic splitter.


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## Lignums

I recently bought a new ax like that at the local Meijer for $30.00.  Apapretly you can't motivate it with a sledge too many times...


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## carpniels

HI Guys,

I just broke the handle on my Fiskars splitting maul with the supposedly unbreakable handle. So I called them and the customer service gal said that she would send me a new one free. How is that for customer service?

Anyway, since there are 2 different Fiskars with a 28 inch handle, I had to take some pictures and send it to her. So I looked on the website and indeed, there are 2 models. But low and behold, the other one is much better!!

4# instead of 2, same handle which I liked. More pronounced wings on it for better splitting. I think I am going to order me one of those to complement my 8# maul. 

Take a look: http://www.fiskars.com/webapp/wcs/s...alogId=10101&categoryId=10277&productId=10528

Carpniels


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## ISeeDeadBTUs

You guys that like your axe and/or 6 lb anything. . .are you splitting ash or what? ANY axe or concave face maul, IMHO, will not work on hard maple or the like.

A blunt edge on a monster maul with steel handle works best for me. Forget multiple strikes, those are for girls :coolsmile: 

But one thing I found interesting here . . . I have ALWAYS found hickory handles will last at least five times longer than ash . . . The steel handles don't break, but they do bend after a while.

Jimbo


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## jklingel

What do you guys think of this thing? At 15 lbs, I think it might just break my back. Dunno.

http://cgi.ebay.com/SPLITTING-MAUL-...ryZ57111QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


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## Mmaul

This is what I like to use, I generally use a sledge and wedge to split large rounds in half then I use that big sucker one hit right through. The only wood that gives me trouble are the notorious ones elm and hickory, usally two or three swings. It will split small rounds with one swing.


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## Mmaul

I should probably add to my previous post I'm 26, this might make a difference in your decision.


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## Lignums

I just ran over my plastic handle tonight with my tuck and trailer, and it still looks fine, no bends or breaks.  I used it tonight on some Black Locust and a huge Red Oak log.  It all depends on how you plan your splits, attack the perimeter and then widdle it down the the core.


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## Nofossil

carpniels said:
			
		

> HI Guys,
> 
> I just broke the handle on my Fiskars splitting maul with the supposedly unbreakable handle. So I called them and the customer service gal said that she would send me a new one free. How is that for customer service?
> 
> Anyway, since there are 2 different Fiskars with a 28 inch handle, I had to take some pictures and send it to her. So I looked on the website and indeed, there are 2 models. But low and behold, the other one is much better!!
> 
> 4# instead of 2, same handle which I liked. More pronounced wings on it for better splitting. I think I am going to order me one of those to complement my 8# maul.
> 
> Take a look: http://www.fiskars.com/webapp/wcs/s...alogId=10101&categoryId=10277&productId=10528
> 
> Carpniels



That's the Fiskars that I have. I love it, but I need one with a 34" handle and a 5-6 pound head. I was amazed at how much less effort it took to split logs with the Fiskars splitting axe, even though it's way small for me. My wife loves it - maybe I'll just let her split it all ;-)


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## jklingel

MMaul" date=" said:
			
		

> I should probably add to my previous post I'm 26, this might make a difference in your decision.



Yeah, at 59 I may just pass on that 15 pounder. I'm only 165 lbs, too. My 8 lb sledge is enough of a workout when driving 2x4's into the ground for batter boards, esp in shist. I may also weld something up and give that a whirl. Doesn't cost much. j


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## DiscoInferno

ISeeDeadBTUs said:
			
		

> You guys that like your axe and/or 6 lb anything. . .are you splitting ash or what? ANY axe or concave face maul, IMHO, will not work on hard maple or the like.



With the 4lb splitting axe (MD), in rough order of decreasing volume: red oak, white oak, cherry, red maple, ash, mulberry, locust, hickory, pear, pine, poplar, beech, elm.  Of those, elm, red maple, cherry, and one particular load of white oak were the biggest pains and would have benefited from a heavier head with a less concave face.  For those I now have a 12lb monster maul.  But I can swing the lighter axe twice in the time it takes to move the monster up and over, and more easily modulate how much effort I put into each swing.

With the 6lb maul (MI): Sugar maple, red maple, beech, yellow birch, hemlock, balsam fir, cherry.  There are always one or two gnarly ones I can't get through, but the monster maul struck out on most of those as well.  (Mostly yellow birch.)  The 359 had no such problems.


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## jklingel

Am curious: How long of a round (birch, cottonwood, spruce) can one split by hand? Some of these gasifiers burn 40" wood (and round, too) but I don't think I can split 40" wood by hand. I don't plan on splitting much, either, but I guess all this cottonwood I am about to fell should be split. So.... length? Thanks. j


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## Lignums

The longest I have split was about 20'' long, about 4' in diameter.  Red Oak.  Good luck with a 40'' piece.  The longest my Hydraulic will fit is 25''.


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## carpniels

HI Lignums,

That picture of the maul you use looks like the one they have at Lowes. It that correct? 4# head? 

I liked the design and thought;" for $30 it is worth a shot." Apparently, you can drive over it and it does not break. Great. I am not a fan or replacing handles.

I am really debating that axe and the Fiskars Nofossil has. He loves his and I have the lighter version of that Fiskars axe and I always liked my fiskars. But it is $58. However, it does have the lifetime warranty.

Choices, choices.

I might even have to get the mine axe from Fiskars just for making kindling.

Carpniels


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## Nofossil

ISeeDeadBTUs said:
			
		

> You guys that like your axe and/or 6 lb anything. . .are you splitting ash or what? ANY axe or concave face maul, IMHO, will not work on hard maple or the like.



I don't do a lot of really big stuff, but I do the gamut of red oak, beech, apple, red cedar, locust, white birch, hickory, and so on. I leave the really gnarly ones for the hydraulic splitter that I borrow once a year, but I like to split as much as I can right where I cut it, in the woods.

I've used traditional splitting mauls for years, but I was blown away by how much better the little bitty Fiskars toy with the concave head worked. I'd estimate half the effort to split the same log as a splitting maul with a head twice as heavy. If the Fiskars were big enough to fit me, I'd be there.


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## Nofossil

So - is this a conspiracy to taunt me? Titan posts a picture of an axe that you can't even buy in this country, and Lignum posts a couple of pictures with glowing recommendations no indication of where you can get them or even look at them....


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## ISeeDeadBTUs

jklingel said:
			
		

> Am curious: How long of a round (birch, cottonwood, spruce) can one split by hand? Some of these gasifiers burn 40" wood (and round, too) but I don't think I can split 40" wood by hand. I don't plan on splitting much, either, but I guess all this cottonwood I am about to fell should be split. So.... length? Thanks. j



My Greenwood only takes 18" . . . but since the combustion chamber is not steel, you roll them in east/west, not north/south. Which has some definite advantages.

1) The wife can put wood in since the chunks are lighter
2)Most chunks can be rolled in without splitting
3) Splitting 18' beats attempting splitting 40"


The downside????

My first year wood supply assumed a Centrel Boiler at 40". Sux to cut every piece before loading >:-(


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## Lignums

Sure I did, at the top of this page.  There are two types of this axe.   The one at Lowes and Home Dumpo have a supposed ergonomic handle that I could not get the feel for after a few years with the one with a regular axe handle.  The last place I bought one like that was at local Meijer store.  The google search says True Value also carries them but I have not been inside one to find out for sure.  And they run on average of $30.00.  Even Amazon.com carries them for $41.00.

http://www.amazon.com/Ames-Temper-S...82-9684648?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1194563218&sr=8-6


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## Nofossil

Lignums said:
			
		

> Sure I did, at the top of this page.  There are two types of this axe.   The one at Lowes and Home Dumpo have a supposed ergonomic handle that I could not get the feel for after a few years with the one with a regular axe handle.  The last place I bought one like that was at local Meijer store.  The google search says True Value also carries them but I have not been inside one to find out for sure.  And they run on average of $30.00.  Even Amazon.com carries them for $41.00.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Ames-Temper-S...82-9684648?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1194563218&sr=8-6



I got that one - thanks. The one I was whining about was the yellow-handled one (below). How would you compare the two in terms of feel, quality, durability, and effectiveness? I saw the True Temper model at Mall-Wart and it had a terrible ridge running down the handle from a bad mold. They only had one, so I don't know if that was an exception or not.


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## Lignums

Were the ones at Wal-Mart all made like that?  The feel is well balanced with the red handled on that I purchased at my local Meijer store.  I bought the last one they had tonight just because I wanted another one for my son.  I know my signature says my son is 6 but he can swing that one just enough to bust apart some Locust.  It surprised the crap out of me when he picked it up and busted one apart.  I like the weight of it, you can swing it all day long, no cramping in the hands, no back pains like lifting a heavy lump of a maul.  I would not buy any other splitting implement besides a hydraulic splitter.


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## Lignums

And no that design does not have that ridge in it from either the ax handle or the crap ergonomic handle from either Lowes, Home Dumpo, or Meijer, all the same.  Maybe that is why Wal-Mart had only the one left because it was a turd.


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## Nofossil

Lignums said:
			
		

> And no that design does not have that ridge in it from either the ax handle or the crap ergonomic handle from either Lowes, Home Dumpo, or Meijer, all the same.  Maybe that is why Wal-Mart had only the one left because it was a turd.



Good - I'll keep my eyes open for one. Makes me scared to buy it on-line, though.


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## Lignums

Any time dude, happy splittin'


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## precaud

I got the red-handled one from Walmart a couple years ago and like it alot, no problems with the handle.


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## OldHickory

My maul of choice is a Sotz maul with overall length 33" made in the 80's which isn't produced anymore (as previously noted).  I've ordained two other woodburners to believers after using my maul so they got the next best thing... a 15# maul with a slight shorter handle (30"overall?) that can still be had via Northern Tool.  If the Sotz won't crack a big round that's spongy or dense then it's time to bring out the sledge and wedges.  Once halved, most will crack under the Sotz.  It helps to persuade the wood with gentle mutterings that it doesn't stand a chance.. eventually it WILL fold, so might as well give in...


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## Gene K.

I use my Fiskar's splitting axe for most of my splitting, and for the tough pieces with gnarly knots, I use a sledge hammer and wood grenade. It's an amazingly quick process when you the knack of it.

One thing that I've noticed is that many beginners try to split down the center of a large round, and that can be a slow, ugly process. Instead, working slats off of the outside of a large round is quick and productive. Furthermore, the resulting pieces are smaller, so they dry quicker and are easier for everyone in the family to handle.


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## carpniels

I got my new Super splitter axe from Fiskars last friday. I used it today and it is a dream. The 4.25# head is really nice, the shape perfect and it works well. I split about 40 rounds of some hardwood (ash?), with perfectly straight grain. I loved it. Every wack was another round in half. Never had better wood to split.

It is better than the other Fiskars I have (the pro splitter) which has a 2.25# head. It is too light to split the big rounds. But nice for kindling.

Carpniels


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## wally

nofossil said:
			
		

> I'm with you on weight, though. I prefer speed and control to brute force. I take some pride in being able to hit the same spot repeatedly.



practice is all it takes, even with a "monster".  i can repeatedly, if necessary, hit the same spot.  less effort, slower stroke, same result.  the trick for me was switching my hands.  for the first 25 years of splitting, i had my left hand below my right hand, just like a baseball batter (righthanded).  two years ago, with a hand injury, i was forced to reverse the grip, and place my right hand lower than my left.  ta-da!  i suddenly had much greater precision with where the maul struck the wood, and could rehit that initial spot.  wood splitting has been easier, and more precicse, the last two seasons.  all because of a hand laceration.

wally


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## Mmaul

I with you when I start off and I know it wont take much to split it I will do it left handed if after one or two hits it stubborn I switch to right hand and usaully can go threw it. As for small for speed and control that's fine but when you come across elm a 6# wont do.


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## cruzer

I have one of these after i broke the head of my fathers old Collins made 8lb maul

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/12265  I got the 2300G heavy splitting axe. They also make a version with wood handle

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11718 

Whats really cool is you can purchase diffrent heads/handle lengths etc. and switch em around. I have had no problems with this axe, i even have a nick in the handle where i was being stupid and i have had no problems with cracking or breaking the handle.

The other suggestion i recieved...more along traditional lines was this

http://www.mckinneyhonda.com/chain-saws-n-power-equip_stihl_pa80.html  they are actualy made by Iltis Oxhead which is a german company

I do like my Helko Tomahawk it splits wood like i think it should. 

Stew


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## Wet1

Any other updates on this thread?  I need a new maul and I'm not sure if I should go with the plain-Jane 8 lb or so high-tech design...


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## jeffman3

I went through several mauls, and even more handles, I even got the massive steel handled monstrosity! ( My Chiropractor said I gave myself whip-lash from using that one! Several sessions with him, and hundreds of dollars later, the pain finally started getting better) I gave up splitting by hand, and bought a Swisher 28 ton splitter. I will never look back! Ever!


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