# Log Splitter



## RoosterBoy

hay guys i am thinking of buying this log splitter is there a way to make this a 25 ton instead of 22
http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.asp?pcID=5&paID=1037&sonID=778&productID=14590&zz=06492&x=9&y=8

also dose a bigger fluid reservoir make faster cycle times how how dose it work dose bigger hp engine mean more tonnage or dose it mean faster cycle time

thanks
how much wood can a wood splitter split if a wood splitter could split wood?
Jason


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## MrGriz

Jason,
I can't help with the tech questions.  However, I bought a 20 ton splitter with a Honda 5.5hp from Northern Tool last year for very comparable money and I love it.  It starts super easy, cycles quickly and I haven't been able to stop it yet.  You may want to check that one out as well.  I think the brand is Nort Star.  I looked at a ton of new splitters before choosing this one and think I made a good choice.
hope this was of some help.


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## adrpga498

I got a similar splitter at Sears 27 ton for less than a tousand on sale. I like the verticle option . Makes it much easier on the larger rounds. Only have about 4 hrs. use so far. I need to start my scrounge for 2007-08 season  NOW.


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## wahoowad

yeah, the scrounge is already on for 2007/2008. You are behind the curve! I'm starting to see fellow scroungers snapping up warm weather tree falls now that the leaves are falling. I've picked up a half cord already myself...


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## elkimmeg

RoosterBoy said:
			
		

> hay guys i am thinking of buying this log splitter is there a way to make this a 25 ton instead of 22
> http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.asp?pcID=5&paID=1037&sonID=778&productID=14590&zz=06492&x=9&y=8
> 
> also dose a bigger fluid reservoir make faster cycle times how how dose it work dose bigger hp engine mean more tonnage or dose it mean faster cycle time
> 
> thanks
> how much wood can a wood splitter split if a wood splitter could split wood?
> Jason



 the cycle speed is tied into the hydro pump and having enough hydro fruid reservior in the under 25 ton splitters the 11 gallon per minute pump will work
 for faster cycle times you have to move more hydro fluid. The 16 gal per minute will cycle faster. My 16 ton electric has an 11 gmp pump.

 usually the tonage relation is governed by the hydro piston the larger the piston the more tonage with mine My pump would pust up to 25 tons but originally I had 12 tons
 I upsized the piston  capacity swapping mine out and never looked back.  I really think I could push 20 tons I also can convert to a gas motor in minutes un do the shaft coupler remove the mount bolts bolt in the gas motor conect the coupler and its a gas splitter with mine IT can be pushed to 25 tons the limit of the hydro pump and a 5.5 hp gas engine


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## Roospike

Hey J , I'd get that size and not worry about it .........going from a Mual to that is like nothing else. From the size of wood i have seen in your yard you didnt have anything there that the posted splitter woulnt handle. 
If your wanting to up size the tonage then buy it that way because of all the things your going to have to change out to get to the upper size.


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## RoosterBoy

hi don so are you saying that a 5.5hp with a 31qt reservoir with a 11gpm pump will cycle faster then a 6.5hp 17qt reservoir with a 11gpm is that right? assuming both have the same 4inch x24 inch travel ram.

thanks
Jason


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## daninohio

Rooster,

As to your original question, I don't know why you'd want to bother going from 22 to 25 tons.  I bought a used 27 ton model of what you're looking at.  From everything I read before I bought a gas splitter, any of the gas splitters out there (which are all 20+ tons) will split anything you want and more.  I don't think the difference would be meaningful in any way.  I've split some large stuff, some knotty stuff and some really large knotty stuff and it never had a problem.  I never read of anyone who had a 20+ ton gas splitter having any issues splitting anything.

As for cycle speed, I think it's just dictated by the pump speed.  Just like on a tractor, the faster the hydraulic pump, the faster you can raise and lower your 3pt implements.  I have a couple old Masseys and I don't think I could do a 3pt mounted splitter because they pump at about 3 gpm.  Good enough for farm work, but not really good for a splitter.  I would think the two splitters with the same ram specs and same pump would cycle at the same speed.  I am curious though what the difference in reservoir size does then -- allow cooler operation?  Avoid issues with operation if levels are low?  I don't know.


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## triptester

The tonnage of a splitter is determined by the bore size of the cylinder, 4" bore =20 ton , 4 1/2" bore = 24 ton , 5" bore = 30 ton. The 2 - stage pumps used on splitters produce a maximum 3000 PSI. The GPM of the pump is usually rated at 3600 RPM's max. with free flow , as pressure increases GPM will drop to about 1/4 the stated capacity at 500 PSI.
  It requires approximately 2 HP for each GPM at 3000 PSI. Example , a 16GPM 2-stage pump will push 16 GPM to 500 psi then it will switch to the second stage which will push 4 GPM from 500 to 3000 psi requiring a 8 Hp motor.
   Most log splitter control valves have a built-in relief that only allows a maximum 2750 psi.


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## elkimmeg

My electric has a 1.5hp (Marathon )110 volt motor that can be wired to 220 and produce 2hp  I changed the 3'  hydro cylinder to 3.5" to achieve 16 tons

  my motor turns around 1850 rpms and I have an ll gpm pump Currently my detent valve is set to 2250 PSI. Would a 4" piston produce 20 tons in 115 volts 
or do I need to change to 220 volts  can I adjust my detent valve for more pressure say to 2750 and would  that  aid to produce more power


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## Yogi

This should help a little bit:

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulic.htm

tonnage is in perspective to bore size in ratio to hydraulic pressure. The larger resivoir will aid in cooling and cooling only. To increase cycle times you have to increase the flow, larger pump. Yes the larger pump does require more power, under load, but will flow fine without load, where the two stage pump comes in. You have the faster cycle times, but still have enough power to split under a heavy load.


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## Jags

elkimmeg said:
			
		

> My electric has a 1.5hp (Marathon )110 volt motor that can be wired to 220 and produce 2hp  I changed the 3'  hydro cylinder to 3.5" to achieve 16 tons
> 
> my motor turns around 1850 rpms and I have an ll gpm pump Currently my detent valve is set to 2250 PSI. Would a 4" piston produce 20 tons in 115 volts
> or do I need to change to 220 volts  can I adjust my detent valve for more pressure say to 2750 and would  that  aid to produce more power



A 4" piston will increase overall pressure as compared to your 3.5" Ram.  Increasing your relief settings on your valve will ALSO increase overall pressure on either Ram.  But you may find that if you increase your relief pressure you may have to go to your 220V @ 2hp setting for the motor to handle it (at least to handle it well).  

Keep in mind that you are still dealing with the same SIZE of pump (11gpm).  Increasing valve pressure will create more pressure. Increasing ram size will also create more pressure, BUT will slow down your cycle time.


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## struggle

Rooster

I have that splitter except mine has the 5.5 briggs. Same model/build. It works very well and I have split wet elm over 2' across with it. I do more damage to myself trying to position big cuts under it than has been done to it by its own use.

I have had one major problem with it though. One day in the garage I noticed fluid leaking from it. I looked aorund and did not see the leak at first but after more inspection I found the tank/housing was cracked where the engine mount/table was welded to the tank. 

The original design was just welded to the tank no supports. I called manufacturuer of it and they sent out a complete tank assembly and I replaced it and no problems since. The old one was not guessetted so that is why the crack I was told. 

It seems to me I have split more wood with it than it was ever intended it is is working great. 

I purchased mine from that store you listed.


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## glassmanjpf

Not able to answer the tech question, looks like you got that answered.  I bought the Troy Built 27 ton 5.5 Honda and it works great.  Used it back in Feb to split 6-7 cords and another 5-6 in June for a buddy.  Reqularly goes for $1299 and I got it for $999 re-conditioned with full warranty.  See link below:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productList&Ne=7000&category=Log+Splitters&N=0+5000827

John


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## Big Dave

I bought the same splitter from Lowes. 5.5 hp Honda Troy bilt. After I split for a few hours it starts pushinghydrolic fluid out of the plug on top of the reserviour. Is this common or do I have a problem?


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## Corey

Dave,

You shouldn't loose fluid.  I can think of two things that might be happening.  If the reservoir is over full, the heat generated by using the splitter for a couple of hours may cause the fluid to expand, take up more volume and leak out the plug.  The other thing would be something (such as old hydraulic fluid, the wrong type of fluid, depleted additives package in the fluid, or a restricted inlet screen) which would cause the fluid to foam up.  As it foams, the volume grows as well, so it could leak out the plug.

Make sure you are in compliance with the manufacturers "maximum fill" recommendations.  If it still overflows, stop and look at the fluid...see if it has a foamy or frothy appearance.

Corey


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## Big Dave

Thanks I will lookat these things. I just bought the fluid. It also did this the very first time I cranked it upamd had not even split any wood at all.


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## daninohio

Big Dave said:
			
		

> Thanks I will lookat these things. I just bought the fluid. It also did this the very first time I cranked it upamd had not even split any wood at all.


Overfilled is the likely answer, but don't overlook another potentially obvious answer -- the reservoir facing downhill.  I did that once when sideways on a small slope and it was equivalent of being overfilled.


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## CK-1

MrGriz said:
			
		

> Jason,
> I can't help with the tech questions.  However, I bought a 20 ton splitter with a Honda 5.5hp from Northern Tool last year for very comparable money and I love it.  It starts super easy, cycles quickly and I haven't been able to stop it yet.  You may want to check that one out as well.  I think the brand is Nort Star.  I looked at a ton of new splitters before choosing this one and think I made a good choice.
> hope this was of some help.




Do you have the four-way splitting wedge?... Thinking about buying one of those babies myself next year...


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## MrGriz

> Do you have the four-way splitting wedge?... Thinking about buying one of those babies myself next year…



I do not have the four-way wedge.  I have never used a splitter with a four way, but I can't imagine that it would work very well with large rounds.  I like being able to split large rounds in half and then work my way across the half.  I'm not sure I could do that with the four way.  I would highly recommend this splitter.  I looked at so many before selecting this one and think it was a good move.


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## velvetfoot

The Harbor Freight 30 ton unit I ordered is now pushed back to 12/1.
I could be getting cold feet anyway.
What is interesting about the unit sold at lowes is that is seems the I beam is not as long since the hydraulic cylinder is cantelievered (sp?).


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## Woodsroad

Mr. Foot

Have you actually seen the HoboFright unit? I hate to buy something this pricey sight unseen. The price is good ($999) for a 30 on, but only if it works!

Thanks


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## Woodsroad

Here's a discussion on splitters (and the HF unit) on another forum:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=13252

You have to skip to the 7th page to pick up on the HF 30 ton discussion:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=13252&page=7


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## velvetfoot

Mr. Road,
No I haven't.  I went out tonight to see all the splitters I could and came up with some info that might or might not be useful.
I went to Home Depot, Harbor Freight, Tractor Supply, and Lowes.  I didn't take notes and my memory isn't that great.  HF had the 22 ton on display, Lowes had the 5.5 Honda 27 honda-powered 5.5hp TroyBilt (MTD?) on display for $1329,  HD had a YardMachines 25 Ton 6hp B&S powered Yard Machines (MTD?), Tractor Supply had a 22Ton Huskee (Speco?) for $999, and HF had a 22 ton 6hp B&S powered Chicago (house brand) for $949 (for which after a little talking was going to throw in a 2year warranty ("worth" $139), so they have some leeway at the retail stores.

All are vertical/horizontal.
I think the MTD's had a cast iron wedge (quite large) that wrapped (as I recall) the I beam - not sure of the advantage there.
The MTD's had a short I beam with a reinforcing plate tack welded on top - the cylinder is catelievered and the unit takes up just as much floor space vertical as horizontal-the HF unit took up less space than all when stored vertically.
The HF and the Huskee had full length I beams.
The Huskee's wedge was captured by rails attached to the I beam.
The HP's wedge was captured by plates bolted to the wedge assembly.
  - not sure of advantage of any
All units except HF had the reservoir as part of the wheels.
The HF unit's reservoir seemed to be below the I-beam when horizontal.
The MTD's had vertical shaft motors, the HF had horizontal, not sure of Huskee
The HF on display had some kind of coupling, I understand the 30 has a chain drive of some sort (for gearing?) - not sure about advantages/disadvantages 
I think the best ergonomics was the MTD's (Lowes...HD was pretty dark outside) - the motor was opposite operating side-no reaching required.
Though the HF unit was displayed vertically, it appears that a reach is required over the engine to get at the control rod.
I took at look at the 9hp Robin engine mounted on some generators at HP - they are overhead cam'ed, with an inclined cylinder.
I don't think hydraulic fluid or oil is included with the HF units as they are with others - could mean that one could fill with high quality syn. fluids to start
The I beam on the HF unit is quite substantial.
They have the all-terrain trailer dolley (pneumatic tires) on sale at HF for $40 'til December some time. I tried lifting the end of the horizontally-positioned Huskee unit and must say it was not too light.  With the full-length I-beam it might be a good lift to go from horizontal to vertical (but there might have been more reinforcement and additional plates on the cantelievered model that made it heavy too).


That is what stuck in my head after my perusal of what was easily visited around here.  It's all a trade off.  I still think the HF 30 Ton unit at $999 plus $60 for truck delivery is a good deal.


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## velvetfoot

I realize it's a crapshoot.  If I recall those guys were talking somewhat abstractly about the HF unit since no one actually owned one.  I talked to HF technical support about the weight and the cyl. diameter.  They told me the actual weight is 598 (not sure if that is shipping weight though!), and that they'd get back to me on the cyl. diameter.  As I recall from looking at the manual at work (I have a real slow dial up connection at home), I am optimistic about the 5" from looking at the hydraulic diagrams in the back and converting to inches.


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## MrGriz

Not to carry water for Northern Tool, but I am very satisfied with the splitter I bought from them.  Check out this link http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200316905_200316905

This is the same design I bought locally, but with a Honda 5.5.  I like the wedge design.  It's not as wide as some and seems to enter the rounds easier.  I also like the way the wedge is mounted to a plate that rides on (around) the I-beam.  The channels that the wedge rides in on some designs just seem to clog up with debris.  The log cradle is also a very nice feature when splitting horizontally.  The automatic throttle control increases power as you split and the automatic return is a time saver.  Cycle time is good.

The only drawback I can see with any of these splitters is in transporting them.  I have towed mine a couple of times and although it is designed with that in mind, I'm not too sure.  It seems to spend more time bouncing and flying just above the road behind my truck than actually rolling along.  I just keep thinking that eventually something has to crack or bounce off.  Since the wheels are attached to (incorporated in) the hydraulic tank on mine, I can see the tank cracking at that mounting point.  Unfortunately, all the splitters I looked at shared this problem.

Just my .02, hope it helps.


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## struggle

> I have towed mine a couple of times and although it is designed with that in mind, I’m not too sure.  It seems to spend more time bouncing and flying just above the road behind my truck than actually rolling along.


I know on mine it says somewhere in the manual to not tow them over 45mph. That might be because of the bouncing.  One thing I try to do is where I split I can leave the splitter out there if I know I will be back before to long. I just cable it down with a lock. Not a crime area/rural farm and cover it with a tarp. I of course do not display out on the front lawn though. At least that way I do not have to pull it back -n-forth.

Mr. Foot,

I have the huskie splitter and the ram is not difficult to to tilt at all. I operate the splitter from ether side when horizontal with out a problem. Like others mentioned I would be concerned about mail ordering such an item, on another note though I would not hesitate to order a soapstone stove from Woodstock though.

I have split a tremendous amount fo wood with the mine. It is a 5.5 hp briggs with the 20 ton ram. I really do not see the need for anything bigger for me. We heat soley by wood so I split a lot. 24 diameter sections seem to be no problem at all. Mine will split peices bigger than I should be handling so a 30 ton for sure would putting me into trouble for lifting more than ones body was ever intended to. 

When I bought the splitter it was ready to go. All fluids were in it. Except gas.


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## Woodsroad

Mr. Foot,

Wow. Thank you for the exhaustive leg work.  That helps. I see a real advantage in the axle arrangement in the HF unit over the others. But the ergonomics seem to be lacking. I called every HF withing reasonable distance from my SE PA home, hoping to look at the 30 ton, and none of them carry the splitters. So, it's a bit of a quandry for me, buying sight unseen. And I know that HF's quality isn't always that good. I just wish that I could talk to someone who has actually USED the 30 ton!
From what everyone is saying, a 20 ton will be sufficient, so I'm now leaning towards buying local, where I can actually see the unit that I'm buying, and take it back if It has problems.

-Mr. Road


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## velvetfoot

There is no full-length axle on the HF unit.  Two stub axles are welded to a pan.  The Northern Hydraulics unit above appears to have all the 'stuff' on one side which seems like a good thing from an operator point of view.  I think on the huskie splitter the operating handle was angled somewhat so it would be accessible from both sides, but the HF's is not.

The siren song is strong:  30 tons, 9 horsepower, $999


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## Woodsroad

OK, you kick the tires and let me know how it is!
Seriously, I'm going to expand my HF search area and go a bit farther afeild to see if a store has one of these in stock. It IS very tempting. All the mechanicals seem to be quality, but I have to remember what my past experience with HF equipment is: Spotty.
Heck, I guess that you can always move the copntrols if need be, and weld a deflector sheild next to the engine to keep the splits off of it.


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## velvetfoot

Two other things I just remembered:
-The mtd's I believe had a cradle for the log on the rail, the HF did not.
-The arboristsite link above mentions aluminums spacers for the ram from Tractor Supply, which seems like it could be a good idea.


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## Woodsroad

I just spoke to an older gent at a HF store. He said that they did not carry the gas-powered splitters, and directed me to TSC. Said that the Huskee models were very nice. He's used one and liked it alot. When I told him that I'd looked at the Huskees, and wanted to see the the HF, he told me that he had the 24 ton HF and loved it. No problems with splits falling on the engine, ergonomics are good, and that he's towed it extensively and rented it out without a hitch over the past two years. 
Hmmm.
If the cylinder really IS 5", I might be placing an order...


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## velvetfoot

In looking at the manual, http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/91000-91999/91840.pdf , there sure does seem to be a difference between the two cylinders.  There are specs for the 22/24 tonners and another, larger one for the 30 ton.  In fact, seal 01-14 has a 115 (I assume mm) for the lower power units, which translates to like 4.5" and 127mm (5") for the 30 tonner.


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## Woodsroad

Well, hurry up and order one and try it out so that i can see if I like it! ;-)


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## velvetfoot

It's been ordered.  Now scheduled to ship 12/1.  Date might slip though in my opinion.
I was getting cold feet about the whole thing though.


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## Woodsroad

Do they ding your card right off the bat, or charge you when it's shipped?

w


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## velvetfoot

When it is shipped.  I can still cancel.
I went to a link referenced somewhere else, http://www.robinamerica.com/engines/detail.lasso?mdl=EX27 , on the engine used.
Apparently the chain drive is for the overhead cam.
I am impressed with the Robin website.  Manuals freely available in pdf form.
Has an auto. compression release for easier starting.
Supposedly quiet with the OHC and a quiet muffler.
What's interesting to me is that just like the high-end B&S Vanguard engine I rebuilt, the connecting rod bearings are not babbitted (not sure if I have right terminology), ie, they are not replaceable - you need a new connecting rod.

edit:  The Vanguard and Robin both have crank roller bearings.


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## Woodsroad

Treat it right and that may never be a problem. I wonder if you can run synthetic in this engine right away or if it is better to wait a few hours of run time for it to settle in.


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## struggle

> What’s interesting to me is that just like the high-end B&S Vanguard engine I rebuilt, the connecting rod bearings are not babbitted (not sure if I have right terminology), ie, they are not replaceable - you need a new connecting rod.



This is common build of many small engines. Even the highend water cooled JD engines on lawn tractors have non-servicable rods.


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## CK-1

MrGriz said:
			
		

> Do you have the four-way splitting wedge?... Thinking about buying one of those babies myself next year…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do not have the four-way wedge.  I have never used a splitter with a four way, but I can't imagine that it would work very well with large rounds.  I like being able to split large rounds in half and then work my way across the half.  I'm not sure I could do that with the four way.  I would highly recommend this splitter.  I looked at so many before selecting this one and think it was a good move.
Click to expand...


Northern Tools log splitters #1108, 1109 and 1114 has the 4-way split option.    1109 and 1114 should be more than powerful enough to handle the task and will save time as well.


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## velvetfoot

Here is a link that discusses the Harbor Freight 30 tonner from last year, with a person who actually owns one and attached an image:
http://www.countrybynet.com/forums/...r/31500/page/0/view/sb/sb//o/all/fpart/1/vc/1


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## Woodsroad

OK, well I'm not sure that adds anything to the equation except that people postulated that the valve on the HF 30-ton might be in an inconvienient place. And that people really liked their SpeeCo units. You can be sure that if i buy the HF splitter, I will post a full write-up!


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## velvetfoot

Me too, although I'll probably get it in the middle of winter and it'll likely be stored behind the snowblowers.


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## Woodsroad

velvetfoot said:
			
		

> In looking at the manual, http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/91000-91999/91840.pdf , there sure does seem to be a difference between the two cylinders.  There are specs for the 22/24 tonners and another, larger one for the 30 ton.  In fact, seal 01-14 has a 115 (I assume mm) for the lower power units, which translates to like 4.5" and 127mm (5") for the 30 tonner.



I'm looking at that manual, and I see what you are talking about. There are also specs on p.2 that list the cylinder diameter at 4.5". Posibly a misprint, but how do I know? Plus, you need to pack the bearings on the wheels yourself, and they do not include a hand packer (about $20 shipped for the Lisle packer http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/LIS-34550.html).

This looks like a beast of a splitter. Weighs 640#. 9hp Robin engine. 16gpm pump. I'm still tempted.


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## velvetfoot

They told me that the weight is wrong.  I think they said it's a tad under 600.  Who knows if that's 'as shipped' or what.  The construction, I think, is the same as the 24.  How much more can a bigger cylinder and pump weigh?

Thanks for the link on the packer.  I might check NAPA on that.  I don't know if you've seen that other thread I started, but you also have to buy hydraulic fluid; they told me the type wasn't critical just as long as it's clean.  I am going to go with AW-32, I think.

Just think, we'd have a 'users group', LOL.


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## velvetfoot

Hey, it looks like the HF 30 tonner went just went up a hundred bucks:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91840


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## Woodsroad

Did that on Monday, I think.


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## velvetfoot

Jeez, I went to Harbor Freight today, Black Friday, to get a trailer dolly (inflatable tires/$40 on sale) and it was a zoo!  The aisles were choked with people.


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## Woodsroad

It's Tuesday.
Do you know where your splitter is? ;-)


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## velvetfoot

I am at work waiting for the call from Yellow Freight;  they'll give me a 30 minute leadtime which should just barely be enough for me to zip on home.
It should be an adventure.


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## Woodsroad

Bring your back brace.

What kind of hydro fluid are you planning to use?


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## velvetfoot

Well, it arrived safe and sound.
It was a full-sized tractor trailer.
He couldn't make the final turn and he put it on the pallet jack and got it to the ground with the hydraulic lift on the back of the trailer (lucky break there).
We pushed the assembly down the gravel driveway; lucky it was downhill. 
It was hard to get it in the garage but it's there.  
This was one instance where a tip was appropriate, imho.
This unit will provide endless hours of amusement, even before it runs!

I got the higher grade fluid at NAPA;  no grade on containers.
I also got some Mobil1 5w-30 for the engine, and a bearing packer.

Here are a couple of pics of the unit as it arrived.
(A general impression is that the cylinder diameter is pretty big.)


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## Woodsroad

Nice Bug.

Looks like you could keep the house heated this winter just with the crate wood.

Thanks for the photos.

-Dan


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## nshif

The cylinder looks as big or bigger then on my Iron and Oak 26 ton.... just not as long. No problem there as I think mine is too long. I think you should be able to split anything with it. Ive only stalled mine once in a nasty piece of oak. Get it put together and lets see it work!


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## Roospike

*HEY!*  :cheese: yes ........... NEW TOYS!


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## velvetfoot

More pics.  The cylinder is a bit more than 5" outer diameter, if that's meaningful.
I don't know if the pics show it, but it looks like the axis of the wedge may not be directly in line with the rod; I don't know if this is significant.
I have to pick up the I-beam (with the cylinder & valve) and turn it 90* to mount it.  The base also has to have the wheels mounted at some point; before or after the I-beam is relocated, I'm not sure at this point.  I guess a block and tackle hanging from the ceiling would be useful, but I don't have that so maybe I'll use my mad car skills, ie, jacks;  I have a tranny jack, maybe that'll help.
That I-beam is wicked heavy.


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## velvetfoot

I'm thinking I should take apart those boxes first to see if there are any instructions.  

More pics:


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## MrGriz

> I’m thinking I should take apart those boxes first to see if there are any instructions.



Instructions...A giant beer can should come crashing down on your head  :lol: 

Seriously... That looks like a nice design, can't wait to see her up and running!

I think even the ELMs in your neck of the woods are nervous


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## Woodsroad

Velvetfoot,

Thanks for the additional pix. I have not ordered yet, I was waiting for your report, and a great report it is. A couple of questions:

What are the dimensions of the unopened crate? I have an electric hoist in my outbuilding, but I'm not sure that I could get the crate through the door....I suppose that a jack and a bunch of cribbing could get the same thing accomplished, but oh so slo-o-o-owly.

" it looks like the axis of the wedge may not be directly in line with the rod" The wedge is off-set fron the axis of the rod? Or is it at an angle? Either one doesn't sound good, but off-axis sounds less problematic. Just a sloppy weld alignment?

What brand is that pump? It's supposed to be a 16gpm Haldex, but it looks like a plain black box! Interesting that this splitter is shipped intact from China, I guess all those components (engine, pump, valve, cylinder) are made there as well. I was hoping that the engine was made in Japan, and the pump made here.

One other thought. It's been noted that the controls are on the "wrong" side of the engine. How difficult would it be to just rotate the cylinder (and controls) 180 degrees? Would the controls still be accessible?

Thanks again....

-Dan


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## velvetfoot

I will try to recreate the measurements tonight.  You are more concerned with the footprint, rather than the height?
I think it's the weld alignment, but I'm just starting to look at it.
That box appears to be a shield for the coupling.  The 4th picture on the right in the first group of pics has a better view;  you can see what looks to be a nameplate.  I can see what it says tonight.


----------



## Woodsroad

Yes, I think that I can fit the crate into the trailer on my garden tractor, then back it into the outbuilding for assembly. It's a big door, but, that a big splitter! So, if you can give me the rough crate footprint, that would be great.


----------



## Roospike

Woodsroad said:
			
		

> Velvetfoot,
> 
> Thanks for the additional pix. I have not ordered yet, I was waiting for your report, and a great report it is. A couple of questions:
> 
> What are the dimensions of the unopened crate? I have an electric hoist in my outbuilding, but I'm not sure that I could get the crate through the door....I suppose that a jack and a bunch of cribbing could get the same thing accomplished, but oh so slo-o-o-owly.
> 
> " it looks like the axis of the wedge may not be directly in line with the rod" The wedge is off-set fron the axis of the rod? Or is it at an angle? Either one doesn't sound good, but off-axis sounds less problematic. Just a sloppy weld alignment?
> 
> What brand is that pump? It's supposed to be a 16gpm Haldex, but it looks like a plain black box! Interesting that this splitter is shipped intact from China, I guess all those components (engine, pump, valve, cylinder) are made there as well. I was hoping that the engine was made in Japan, and the pump made here.
> 
> One other thought. *It's been noted that the controls are on the "wrong" side of the engine. How difficult would it be to just rotate the cylinder (and controls) 180 degrees?* Would the controls still be accessible?
> 
> Thanks again....
> 
> -Dan



What do you mean the controls are on the wrong side of the engine ?


----------



## velvetfoot

The crate base is 40 1/4" wide by 76" long.
The nameplate on the pump says:
Haldex
030306
87307

I don't know what those numbers mean.
The first number might be a part number that could be found on the Haldex web site, but their catalogs are big pdf's and I'm at home with dial up.

A couple of snags:  An inboard's wheel bearing seal was torn and it looks like the spark arrestor took a hit (still useable I guess).


----------



## Woodsroad

Thanks. That's do-able.
You know, if HF had all this info on their site, they could sell a lot more of these splitters. You should get a commission!

Roospike: People commented that the valve was too close to the engine, and required a reach over. It was posited that perhaps the valve could be moved to the other side of the cylinder.


----------



## velvetfoot

I have the replacement parts ordered (warranty).  8-10 days for seal (in stock), 6-8 weeks for the spark arrestor, actually called a deflector (from China).
I'd like to retract something I said earlier.  The wedge is loose on the rail so it doesn't bind I guess and moves back and forth;  it doesn't appear to have been welded crooked.
On a related matter, do the rails have to be greased where the wedge makes contact?  I've never read about that anywhere and the manual doesn't mention it.


----------



## velvetfoot

I checked with Haldex when I couldn't correlate the nameplate numbers to a Haldex P/N.  It is a genuine Haldex pump sold to Central Mfg (or whatever).  The numbers on the nameplate are manufacturer numbers.  It is a GC pump.  They weren't able to easily say for sure that it is a 16 gpm unit, but I would say all signs point to "yes".

More info anyway...


----------



## MrGriz

Looks good, can't wait for a report on the first use!

The wedge set up looks very similar to the one on my North Star.  I don't 'grease' the I beam where the wedge rides per say.  What I do is coat the wedge and I beam with a little motor oil when I am done splitting.  Typically I will brush off any debris and then pour a little oil on the I beam.  I then cycle the ram a couple of times to distribute the oil and wipe off any excess with a paper towel.  I also wipe down the wedge with oil.  I don't think this is really necessary, but it can't hurt.


----------



## velvetfoot

Thanks MrGriz; that sounds like a good strategy.
What's the philosophy behind the wedge set up?  Does that bracket ride on the end of the ram like the wedge or does it stay put to dislodge a stuck piece log?

The guy at the local NAPA is trying to match the dust seal and should have one by tomorrow if he finds one.  (Props to NAPA-knowledgeable and helpful).  I figured that's worth a try rather than disassemble it when the replacement from HF comes in.  
It would've been better to assemble it today since the cold front is coming through tomorrow and the garage will be colder.
I'm going have to see if I can rustle up a piece or two to split.


----------



## velvetfoot

Well, I got it together and running (pictures below).
I ran it around the driveway, so to speak, with the dolly and that works well too, except for a squeeky wheel.
The unit heavy, I had no help, so two jacks, jackstands, dubious cribbing, etc were employed.
I noticed a line gouge or deep impression in the return hose that I'm pretty sure I didn't do, so I might call HF up on that; it didn't leak and it's under low negative pressure (right?).
That brace that keeps it level has to be placed in the travel position so hitch coupling can be brought down and put on the ball of the dolly;  that and the restoral sequence requires lifting the beam with one hand and removing and re-installing a push pin - not easy.  Maybe there's some way to do it without a jack, because moving it around without the dolly is do-able but not as easy.

I got the engine running, finally, after taking the spark plug out and checking the spark.  The on/off switch wasn't intuitive (to me anyway), and it was late, etc, etc.  It seems to run pretty quietly.  What is nice is that you can control the speed of the engine;  the ram definately goes slower when you slow the engine down.  The engine has a couple of other nice touches like a low oil shutoff and a strainer in the gas tank fillup;  a gas bowel is mentioned that should be cleaned periodically of dirt and moisture, but I haven't figured that out yet (bottom of carb?).  What's interesting is that when you look inside the tank, the pickup tube is actually about an inch or so above the bottom the tank, so you never can drain all the fuel.  I wonder if that's the case with all equipment.

I split some large-ish pieces I had.  There were knots involved but it was hardly a test.

Ergonomically, I guess it could be better, but I'm no expert.  I'm not even clear as to which side would be better to split fron.

The ram stops moving when you put it in the center position you must put the control rod back to reverse the ram), so I don't think there's a need for those aluminum cylinder spacers I mentioned somewhere else.

So, I'll probably run it for a while and then it goes into hibernation, I guess.


----------



## yukiginger

Velvetfoot, you should check my post in this thread for a problem I believe you may face with the splitter:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/2309/


Had I visited the forum recently I might have saved you some trouble by recommending you check the lovejoys and spyder before you mounted the engine to the frame, as it is now hard to access.  If they used the same spyder on yours that they did on mine (the 22 ton 4 1/2" cylinder size) you may soon have a problem.  You can feel with your hands to make sure there are no gaps between the lovejoy couplings and the spyder (and especially no slop).  A better quality spyder can be purchased at Tractory Supply Company.

I bought my splitter reconditioned which made it much cheaper (but potentially with a problem, which I certainly experienced) but I see from this thread that it had another ancillary benefit - it came fully assembled!

Mark


----------



## velvetfoot

Thanks Mark.  I saw your post but I forgot to look at the coupling closely.  (The engine came already mounted on the frame.)  Of course it's hard to see since it's iron-encased on 3 sides.  I've felt around down there but I have no idea what the coupling looks like yet or what a good installation should look like;  would you have any links?  I'll check it out tonight, maybe use an inspection mirror.

HF customer service has been pretty helpful so far.

Do you think any harm is caused by tilting the splitter (not running)when it is in the horizontal configuration?  It takes up a little less space that way, but I'll store it in the vertical configuration anyway probably.

It seems that splitters in general have the potential to go on forever since the parts are simple, available, and not too costly.

That beam and cylinder is wicked heavy!  

Still it seems to be a good deal for $1k.


----------



## ourhouse

It looks nice and shiney in the garage, when do we see it in action?


----------



## yukiginger

Velvetfoot, the lovejoys and spyder are there in that housing between the pump and the engine.  You can feel from underneath there.  It should feel like a solid cylinder, as the lovejoys are mounted on the shafts and cushioned inbetween by the spyder.  Feel for significant gaps in this lockup and try to twist it by hand back and forth and feel for any slop.  I agree with you about the lack of complexity in the things.  There really isn't too much to go wrong, so I still think that the HF splitters are good deals.  I got mine for $640 delivered to my door.

Mark


----------



## velvetfoot

Wow that was a good deal.  I looked underneath.  Who knows what I saw.  It looked like fingers in plastic, but I think it's supposed to have some slop.  What I might have could be a small leak from somewhere.  It was on the pan in front of the output shaft of the engine but it smelled like hydraulic fluid, so who knows.  Maybe just some residual (wishful thinking).  A spare seal kit for the cylinder came with the splitter;  thoughtful or prophetic, lol.

Mark, which side of the splitter do you stand on?  I've found in re-splitting a wheelbarrow full of wood that the side without the engine seems best.  Have any falling pieces caused any problem for you?

I found a way to move it around with less hassle.  When it is horizontal and resting on the brace I can place the dolly on a pair of Rhino ramps by Blitz (the common plastic ones) which brings the height of the dolly ball to that of the hitch coupler.  If the dolly is leaned forward it goes down a little and when leaned back on its rest the ball goes higher lifting the splitter brace bar a tad off the ground.  Anyway the hitch can be coupled to the dolly while the dolly is on the ramps, the brace for the splitter put into the horizontal traveling position, and then wheeled around.  When on location it can be rolled up on the ramps again, the splitter brace deployed and then the dolly leaned forward so that the brace is on the ground.  It's kind of awkward to lift the beam and then take out and put back in the pins.  Maybe there are other solutions, but this is what I came up with.

I said before I didn't think the spacer clips would be useful.  I think they would be because you can put the lever on reverse and it will go back to the predetermined position for splitting your average, say, 16" log while you go pick up another piece to split.

Here are some pics in the vertical position and the trailer and ramp setup.  I did not use it in the vertical position.  It's hibernating now.


----------



## yukiginger

Velvetfoot,  I have only split vertically with it, as I split large rounds, so there is no question where I kneel.  I, too, use a dolly to move it around, but most often I move it by hand.  As you have found the tongue weight is pretty great on the dolly as it is quite a bit low for it.  Now, remember, mine weighs probably close to 100 lbs. less than yours, but what I do is this:  When it is in the horizontal, stored position (with the foot out as in your pics) I just lift up the tongue end until the beam is probably 35-45 degrees (the base of the splitter is probably 6 inches away from touching down).  (I'm trying to recall what it actually looks like, from memory, so I might be off in these approximated measures.) You will see that it balances fairly well this way and can be maneuvered quite easily.  The smallish tires make it difficult for rougher terrain, but moving it around the garage and in the driveway is pretty easy (just remember to keep your back straight when lifting or letting it down).

As for the pins and pulling them I have found that you do need to take some weight off the beam when inserting that forward pin (the one toward the tongue).  What I do is squat near the front on the valve side of the splitter, and get my left knee under the front of the beam with my lower leg vertical under the beam and use my foot (toes) to put upward pressure on the beam which allows me to pull that pin.  Of course, the process is reversed for reinserting it.

Well, I apologize to others who have read this, as it has probably zero application beyond this splitter and its ilk.

Velvetfoot, feel free to PM me if you want to discuss anything further, or continue to post.

Mark


----------



## yukiginger

Correction: I do the pin-pulling from the other side, the non-engine, non-valve side (your pics help).

Mark


----------



## velvetfoot

Thanks Mark.  I'll try that knee thing at some point.
It's a tradeoff on the dolly/ramp versus ease of jockeying, I guess - both very do-able though.
The unit is in hibernation now until who knows when.
One question I did have is how the safety chains attach; the manual doesn't mention that at all. 
Thanks very much.


----------



## Christine

New to message boards and all of this.....Just a lady needing some advice......Wanting to buy my father a log splitter for Xmas (he just had shoulder surgery).....their home is heated and cooled year round with wood.....looking at a Huskee 6.5 hp,22 ton, Briggs Stratton engine, 11gpm, 26 in capacity, 17 qt. res.........for $999.....Is this a good purchase.....will he need to upgrade?  Is an extended warranty a good idea?

Thanks


----------



## MrGriz

Welcome Christine.  What an awesome Christmas gift!

That capacity should more than take care of your Father's needs.  I don't have any direct experience with the Huskee brand, but the specifications and price seem good to me.  I bought my North Star at Northern Tool and Equipment for similar money.  Velvetfoot just purchased the Harbor Freight model at about the same price and seems happy.  Briggs is a good engine, but I am partial to the Honda engine myself.  That thing starts easily and runs strong.

Good luck and keep asking questions as they come up.


----------



## Corey

That seems to be a pretty good combination of price and power.  Should make one happy father.

I'm curious that you say the house is "heated and cooled" with wood.  Wondering if that is a typo or is he really running some type of wood fired absorption cooling?  If so, I think that may be a first for hearthnet!  I'd love to hear any specs or operating details of that unit!

Corey


----------



## Woodsroad

Christine said:
			
		

> New to message boards and all of this.....Just a lady needing some advice......Wanting to buy my father a log splitter for Xmas (he just had shoulder surgery).....their home is heated and cooled year round with wood.....looking at a Huskee 6.5 hp,22 ton, Briggs Stratton engine, 11gpm, 26 in capacity, 17 qt. res.........for $999.....Is this a good purchase.....will he need to upgrade?  Is an extended warranty a good idea?
> 
> Thanks



Christine, I've looked at that splitter and thought that it was an excellent combination of weight and practicality. Seems to be well made, yet you can move it around without a lot of effort. That said, I did go ahead and order the HF 30 ton. But i'm always buying stuff that is big, just because, well...it's big. I do have a Briggs 5.5 hp engine on a lawn vac and it's really a perfectly good engine. Starts easily and runs strong. Your dad will be happy with the splitter. Does he have a place to keep it under cover?

-dan


----------



## velvetfoot

Dan,
You did order the 30-tonner?! 
Just be careful when assembling - it's very heavy.
The jacks and "cribbing" method worked but my cribbing was very flakey.

PS:  I don't know if you read my above post, but stupid me had a problem with the on/off switch on the Robin!  It has a "pointer" on the end that "really" points to "on" or "off".  Once I discovered the magic trick of how to make spark, it started up great.


Consumer Reports says that extended warranties are usually a waste of money.
They're pretty simple devices.  If it doesn't work out during the the shakeout duration of the mfr's warranty, I would guess that something bad might not happen for a while using it at a homeowner's rate.  Then again, maybe only using once a year or two might not be good for things; I don't know.  A splitter for me would probably be used way less than my snowblower or lawnmower, but they've worked year after year (knock on wood).

Another thing you could get your father if he doesn't have them are those ear muffs that muffle the sound.  I've used them a lot - a lot more than I thought I would - when running small-engined machines.  They are very convenient (much more so than the foam plugs) and effective.  (I have the hardhat with built in face screen and muffs but that's overkill for stuff like snowblowing.)  Plus maybe some eye and face protection stuff.


----------



## Woodsroad

Velvetfoot,

I intend to get that crate into my outbuilding, where I have an overhead electric hoist, made by....Harbor freight. I've been working on a project building a pressure washer, using a 15 hp 4 cylinder engine, so that hoist has been useful. Either way, the splitter is now backordered again, until early February. We'll see what happens. If the delay goes on much beyond that date, I'll have to buy something else.

Good advice on the ear muffs. They also keep your ears warm.

-Dan


----------



## velvetfoot

Dan,

I forgot you had that overhead hoist.
That is one bad pressure washer!

I never thought I'd use those muffs so much - very convenient.

Karl


----------



## Woodsroad

4 gpm @4000 psi
I found the pump, new, on eBay for $100. It's a top of the line GP pump. Engine was bought used, along with four others just like it, for $35. I'll have a number of new parts that I will have to buy, including a hose reel and wand, but it should be pretty amazing when done.


----------



## Woodsroad

BTW, I've made it a habit of mounting a digital RPM/Hour meter on every 4-stroke gas-engine item that I have. I could never really estimate hours of use, so this gizmo tells you exactly how many hours you have on an engine, and it helps keep an eye on RPM's. 

http://www.tinytach.com/tinytach/index.php

The Robin-Subaru engines would use the TT226NR-2C or TT226R-2C

These have an internal battery that lasts about 5 years, the only downside. You can split them open and replace the battery, if you are so inclined and able.


----------



## velvetfoot

I have one of those on my generator only it doesn't have a reset button.
I forgot where I got mine though - somewhere on the internet.
Price could add up if all the engines had them, though maybe in the long run it wouldn't be that bad.
I didn't know it's possible to change out the battery - might affect its water tightness though.


----------



## Woodsroad

I kind of see it as engine insurance. Unless you keep a detailed log book on each engine (who can do THAT?), I find this an easy way to change oil/filters etc every 25 hours and do the bigger issues of cleaning carbon off the head and resetting valve clearances when the time comes. It just makes it very easy. The RPM's help to diagnose problems before they get bad, like mower deck spindle bearings. Plus, you have something to look at while you are cutting the lawn ;-)


----------



## Bones

New to the forums with a problem. Just built an electric log splitter and worked Ok,now a few days later (and 30° colder) pump barely turns over. I have used 
( per recomendations) Chevron ISO 68 and is tooooo thick. Is there anyway to thin this out or best to just flush system with 10W AW hyd. fluid ¿
Thanks  Bones


----------



## Roospike

Bones said:
			
		

> New to the forums with a problem. Just built an electric log splitter and worked Ok,now a few days later (and 30° colder) pump barely turns over. I have used
> ( per recomendations) Chevron ISO 68 and is tooooo thick. Is there anyway to thin this out or best to just flush system with 10W AW hyd. fluid ¿
> Thanks  Bones



The"PUMP" wont turn over or the "engine" wont turn over ? 

Is the pump belt driven or direct drive ?


----------



## Bones

It's a 2hp electric motor direct drive. It does turn over very slowly. It's suppose to be warmer next week, so I want to change the hyd. fluid.
Thanks


----------



## Roospike

Bones said:
			
		

> New to the forums with a problem. *Just built an electric log splitter *and worked Ok,now a few days later (and 30° colder) pump barely turns over. I have used
> ( per recomendations) Chevron ISO 68 and is tooooo thick. Is there anyway to thin this out or best to just flush system with 10W AW hyd. fluid ¿
> Thanks  Bones



I missed the electric part i guess.


----------



## FuzzyOne

Bones said:
			
		

> It's a 2hp electric motor direct drive. It does turn over very slowly. It's suppose to be warmer next week, so I want to change the hyd. fluid.
> Thanks



When I know that I will be splitting, I put a heater on my tank to warm the fluid.  I run AW32, and it does get thick.  A portable propane heater works pretty fast also.  The magnetic one needs to be on a few hours.  Here is a link to what I'm talking about:

http://tractorsupply.com/detail.asp?pcID=4&paID=1032&sonID=65&page=1&productID=17044


----------



## Bones

When I know that I will be splitting, I put a heater on my tank to warm the fluid.  I run AW32, and it does get thick.  A portable propane heater works pretty fast also.  The magnetic one needs to be on a few hours.  Here is a link to what I'm talking about:

http://tractorsupply.com/detail.asp?pcID=4&paID=1032&sonID=65&page=1&productID=17044[/quote]

Now that looks interesting.

I'm still going to check out other hyd. fluid.


----------



## Woodsroad

OK, I promised to post when the HF 30 ton splitter arrived. 

It arrived.

Let me say this up front: If you do not have the experience and capabilities to move a 600#, 6'x 3.5' crate off of a semi (deck height, about 4' ) and into a covered place with either an engine hoist or overhead hoist, do not even consider this machine. I suppose if you have four strong guys, you could wrestle it around a bit, but you really need to know what you are doing, or you could get squished.

That said, I was feeling "capable" after having survived moving a 900#, 6' bio fume hood all by myself, so when the call came from Yellow Freight carriers yesterday, I swung into action. My driveway is 150', gravel and uneven. It's another 50' to my outbuilding. You can not get a semi down the drive because of two tight bends and lots of rocks and trees close to the drive. There is 4" of compressed snow and sleet on the ground. I got the old Cub Cadet 122 running and put the wheel weights and chains on, pulled out the garden dump cart, which is rated at 1500#, and cut a piece of 3/4 plywood and bolted it to the top. This gave me a rolling platform about 3' off the ground. The plywood added rigidity, and gave a place to drop the crate on an even surface. I hemmed and hawed about the plywood yesterday, and I'm glad I did it.

The driver arrived, in the rain, and was dubious, but assisted me in tilting the crate off the truck bed and onto the cart. The cart held. We fastened it down with 3" ratcheting tie downs, he wished me good luck, and left. The trip down the driveway was uneventful, but gut wrenching as the load swayed back and forth. When they rate these carts, it must be a static load, at bed level, on a level surface, just before the tires pop.

I had to back the last 50' down to the outbuilding because of ice, but everything held. Putting on my HF rubber-coated work gloves ($1.00 a pair last week) and grabbing my handy HF hammer and pry bar, I set about uncrating this beast. It comes split in half, beam and cylinder section on one side, undercarriage and engine on the other. You can separate the two by disconnecting two hoses. I backed the cart up to the outbuilding, carefully tilted the bed down with the "dump" feature. There's an overhead hoist in the outbuilding, so I pulled the line outside, hooked it to the skid and pulled it into the building.

All told, it took me an hour and a half, off the truck and under cover inside. And I didn't injure myself. If it was a dry summer day, it probably would have taken half that time.

My first impression is that this thing is a beast. My second impression is that this thing is a beast. I'll give you my third impression when i start to assemble it.


----------



## FuzzyOne

Lots of pics too please.


----------



## Woodsroad

I'll make pix as I assemble. No pix of it coming off the truck, etc because I was  *little* busy using my hands for other things. ;-)


----------



## velvetfoot

See pics I took of mine earlier in thread.
The "cribbing" I built 'cause of no hoist was my adventuresome part.
Thankfully, no injuries.


----------



## velvetfoot

Don't forget, the on/off switch position wasn't exactly intuitive for me.


----------



## Woodsroad

How did you go about bleeding the system?


----------



## velvetfoot

I didn't, as I recall.  
As I said, I haven't used it much, but it seems to work okay.


----------



## FuzzyOne

Woodsroad said:
			
		

> How did you go about bleeding the system?



Usually, you should fill the appropriate level of fluid, take the boot off the spark plug so the engine can't turn over, then pull the starter rope about 10 times to circulate the fluid through the system.  Then you can start the engine and cycle the cylinder a few times.  The system self bleeds air out of the tank.  Then check and set the proper fluid level.  You shouldn't crank over the engine without first introducing fluid into the pump.


----------



## Woodsroad

Thanks.
I have a tub of Pennzoil Hydra-Trans. Is it suitable for use in this log splitter?
http://www.pennzoil.com/TechData/Pdsheet/DomesticMarketing/Gear&Transmission/pdf/HydraTranz.PDF


----------



## FuzzyOne

I'm no oil guy and shy away from "what's the best", but everything I've read says hydro fluid (AW32) or ATF fluid.  Lowes sells a 5 gallon pail of AW32 for $45.  The owners manual should specify what should be used.  That link looks like it will work, but again, I'm no oil guy.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=188584-30102-733704&lpage=none


----------



## Woodsroad

No, the HF manual just says "Hydraulic Oil".
I think the Hydra-Trans should work. It looks similar to other "multi-use" oils.


----------



## Bones

This is from Northern tool. 


"We appreciate your contacting NorthernTool.com.

This 2-stage pump requires a 5 HP Horizontal shaft engine 

We recommend using DEXTRON 3 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID in hydraulic systems. 


I used ISO 68 and is  VERY  thick when cold. I'm switching to something thinner.


----------



## Bones

Just received this from CHEVRON.

"Thank you for your inquiry.I will assume this is a hydraulic oil, ISO 68 just says SAE 20, it is a type of viscosity. That is a heavy viscosity for a hydraulic oil in winter, even in Tennessee. Dexron III works well as a multigrade hydraulic oil, with a pour point of -50. Drain the reservoir and replace with the Dexron III, or what we call today MD-3. I have attached a product data sheet on the product."

I do understand they want $$$ for Dextron III.


Hope this helps.


----------



## velvetfoot

I used the Harbor Freight 30 tonner today for an hour or two.
It's a dream.
I don't have anything to compare it to but it worked great.
I had it on 1/2 throttle and it split everything but one particularly gnarly piece, and I got that by throttling up.
I worked on the non-engine side.
With one or two particularly large pieces a piece did drop on the pump, but I get around that by just holding onto that piece and let the near piece drop (I am splitting 16" pieces).
They bounce off the tires all the time, with no problem (I can see problems there if there were fenders).  I use the tire to stage the big pieces before I put it on the rail.
You have to keep pressure on the handle to keep the ram going which is a safety feature I guess.  
There is no auto reverse; you push the handle back and the ram goes back without your hand on it and it keeps going until it's fully retracted.
I think things could be sped up some if I put some of those spacers in there from Tractor Supply.  Then it would retract to say 18" while I get a piece on the ground or something.  I'm scared about scratching the ram, but others say no problem.
The engine seems pretty quiet  (especially with ear muffs on, lol), but seriously, I think it is pretty quiet.
The manual said to put in 2.5 gallons of hyd fluid, which I thought I did.  I wound up putting in another 2 gallons though to bring the level up to about 2" below the bottom of the filler hole, which comes in from the side at the top of the reservoir.  It has a large diameter cylinder, so maybe that's it-the reservoir doesn't look that big anyway.


----------



## velvetfoot

I put down the link earlier in the thread for hydraulic cylinder stops, but here it is again:  http://www.tsrparts.com/straw-choppers-2002-depth-stop-price-list.html
Looks like it might be 40 bucks.
A tad steep, but it could save some time.


----------



## velvetfoot

I've looked at little closer at my splitter and I'm not so sure it would work because there is a hole for the log remover that might cause a problem.

I've noted in another thread that the cylinder intermittently leaks and that HF is replacing it.

Woodsroad:  What has your experience been so far?
I've been standing on the non-engine side with the splitter in the horizontal position. 
How do you approach it?


----------



## velvetfoot

Hey, this unit does indeed have a drain plug on the bottom of the tank!  I hadn't seen that before.
I don't know if it can be seen in this picture.  (The splitter is actually level, it is the picture taker who was crooked.   )


----------



## Mr_Super-Hunky

That splitter sure looks real capable!.


----------



## velvetfoot

I was just tickled that I found the drain plug.
Now I have to find a NAPA filter number for it.

The original HF part number is 29490 for $10.91 and has to be ordered.
I'm still looking for a NAPA number.


----------



## velvetfoot

I've been splitting vertical for the last several times and it's awesome!
Roll the rounds and sit on a bucket.  No lifting.  No bending down to pick up splits.
Turns out it's easy to change to vertical, not heavy.
Awesome.


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## BrotherBart

velvetfoot said:
			
		

> I've been splitting vertical for the last several times and it's awesome!
> Roll the rounds and sit on a bucket.  No lifting.  No bending down to pick up splits.
> Turns out it's easy to change to vertical, not heavy.
> Awesome.



By George I think he's got it!


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## velvetfoot

Egg-zackly!!
What a dufus I was to lift those heavy chunks up on the rail, even 'staging' them on the tire!
Then, having to pick up half of a heavy chunk, which is also pretty heavy.
You were very correct in your advice, BB!

I wound up 'fixing' (hopefully) the non-working detent on the return switch.
I took someone's advice on ArboristSite.com and turned around 180 degrees the cylindrical rod the handle is tied in to.  The fellow who gave me the advice said the detent's spring-loaded balls had worn a groove on the it.  My splitter is not old but it seemed to do the trick.  Still spits some oil out the end though, but it's not air caused, for sure.


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## Jay H

velvetfoot said:
			
		

> Egg-zackly!!
> What a dufus I was to lift those heavy chunks up on the rail, even 'staging' them on the tire!
> Then, having to pick up half of a heavy chunk, which is also pretty heavy.
> You were very correct in your advice, BB!
> 
> I wound up 'fixing' (hopefully) the non-working detent on the return switch.
> I took someone's advice on ArboristSite.com and turned around 180 degrees the cylindrical rod the handle is tied in to.  The fellow who gave me the advice said the detent's spring-loaded balls had worn a groove on the it.  My splitter is not old but it seemed to do the trick.  Still spits some oil out the end though, but it's not air caused, for sure.



Hey, sounds good. I've been somewhat away from hearth.com, just busy with other stuff.  

I don't see myself using the splitter horizontally for anything in the near future, all my wood rounds are quite large and heavy.  I don't use a bucket to sit on, I typically use a round or a half-split or so and then the last round I split would be the one I'm sitting on..  My wrists get so banged up from rolling the rounds around, could use longer gloves, gauntlets almost. 

Jay


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## velvetfoot

I have found, through experience (again with the dufus), that steel toed shoes really help when rolling those rounds.  
For me age has been a factor-I have braces on both wrists and now an elbow!


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## Fubar411

So how are you liking the HF 91840 splitter now?  I'm on the fence about getting one for my birthday.


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## velvetfoot

I like mine.
I have split about 6-7 cords with it.
As I said, it had a couple of problems.
Harbor Freight was good about it and sent the parts (cylinder and valve), which I have yet to install.
The cylinder leakage almost went totally away after a while, and the original valve was working pretty well.
As I said, I love the engine, and it seems built well.
I brought it into the garage every time I was finished splitting, so it can't be too hard to set up to split vertically.


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## Gooserider

I’m posting this on any of the threads I find with serious discussion of the HF splitters since I think it’s an important note that is NOT in the manual… Sorry for the many copies but I want anyone searching to find it… 

I just got off the phone with Harbor Freight technical support and they gave me a very emphatic message - I was asking about the specs on the hydraulic fluid, as I could not find ANY information on what I should use in the actual manual… The tech support guy I talked with sounded like he knew what he was talking about (much better than some that I have encountered) 

He gave two useful items of information - First off, even though the manual says the thing takes 2.5 gallons, it really will take more like 4.5 gallons. 

More importantly, and most emphatically he said 

DO NOT use DEXRON III or Mercon III ATF 

The given reason being that the ATF’s have a solvent in them that does not like the nitrile seals being used in the valve - actually he wasn’t 100% clear on whether it was the seals inside the valve, or the ones at the hose/valve body junctions, but either way, he said that the use of ATF would cause the seals to rapidly get eaten, and cause leaks… 

The HF recomended fluid is AW 32 Hydraulic oil - other hydraulics would work, but aren’t as suitable. 

Gooserider


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## Woodsroad

I'm posting this as a follow-up, three years on.
Please read this thread:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/23743/

and read it through to the end. There are reported problems with the cylinder on the 30 ton splitter.


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