# Wood against the glass.... safe or not?



## maverick06 (Dec 30, 2010)

I have read about the topic, wood touching the (ceramic) glass, and there doesnt seem to be a concensus. 

I have a FPX 33 and due to the shape of the firebox really am forces to load E/W (parallel to the doors). This means, that on occasion wood will fall against the doors. My thoughts on the topic are 

1) this will leave the doors blackened. I do not care about this, it will burn off and i dont bother cleaning the doors anyways. 
2) If the log were really to hit the door, the impact could break the glass, I think this is unlikely, at least for me. The impact isnt substancial. 
3) I am not talking aobut closing hte door onto a log/split and breaking it that way. 

If I notice a log is resting against the glass (after it fell into place) do I bother opening it up to fix the issue? Is this a concern that the temperature differential on the glass will cause it to break?

I do not think it is a problem, it has happened to me before, but i am still concerned about it. 

I would appreciate your thoughts on the topic. 

Rick


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## woodchip (Dec 30, 2010)

Is it possible to pull the coals forward, and place the new splits E/W behind, so it burns front to back (with the airwash creating the natural flow away from the glass this may help). 

Just thinking out aloud as this is what I have taken to doing after experimenting a bit with my stove.........

I notice in one of the adverts for your insert in a brochure, a split seems to be virtually touching the glass but the picture has been done so the glass is clear (nice insert by the way).........  ;-) 

http://www.fireplacex.com/product_guide/detail.aspx?id=220


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## branchburner (Dec 30, 2010)

I don't know if there is a need to be concerned, and can't imagine a reason. I only know I'm not concerned when it happens. But I usually move the log anyway to keep the glass clean.


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## RNLA (Dec 30, 2010)

Funny how this is with stoves, inserts, ETC. How did they figure out just how thick the door ceramic (glass) needed to be? I would have to believe there was some guys with white lab coats and clip boards standing there, fire ablaze, stop watches, fire extinguishers. "Well Bob I would say it might need to be a little thicker, sorry about your shoes... I also say there is some built in or figured safety margins.


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## Corie (Dec 30, 2010)

Only a safety issue if the log rolls out when you open the door.  The ceramic glass used on wood stove doors is TOUGH!  During the test procedure it has a steel ball slammed against it and is also sprayed with water during maximum burn conditions.


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## RSNovi (Dec 30, 2010)

I have the same problem with my Oslo.  I am always fighting to keep wood off the glass when loading.  I am trying to pack as much wood as I can at night.  Any loading tips?


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## SnapCracklePop (Dec 30, 2010)

RSNovi said:
			
		

> I have the same problem with my Oslo.  I am always fighting to keep wood off the glass when loading.  I am trying to pack as much wood as I can at night.  Any loading tips?



If I think the split closest to the door is going to get ornery, I shove it either all the way to the LEFT or all the way to the RIGHT, catching one end on the vertical part of the door opening. That usually keeps the little bugger in place.


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## firefighterjake (Dec 30, 2010)

PopCrackleSnap said:
			
		

> RSNovi said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Same here . . . I also tend to stack the wood so that it leaning more towards the rear of the Oslo . . . it also helps on my final reload of the night that I tend to use my bigger rectangles and squares that I split for just this purpose.


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## firefighterjake (Dec 30, 2010)

maverick06 said:
			
		

> I have read about the topic, wood touching the (ceramic) glass, and there doesnt seem to be a concensus.
> 
> I have a FPX 33 and due to the shape of the firebox really am forces to load E/W (parallel to the doors). This means, that on occasion wood will fall against the doors. My thoughts on the topic are
> 
> ...


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## LLigetfa (Dec 30, 2010)

My stove has built-in andirons that keep the wood more than 5 inches away from the glass when loading E/W.  The manual advises not to put wood in front of the andirons.  Now and then a split may roll and touch the glass without anything bad happening except blackening the glass.


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## velvetfoot (Dec 30, 2010)

As was noted, more damage may be caused by attempting to move it.
In addition to roll out scenario, I've knocked the poker on the glass, albeit softly, but you never know (pointy object, sweet spot, etc).


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## n3pro (Jan 1, 2011)

Happens often in my 3 years burning.  1st time scared the crap out of me, after about the 100 time I just glance at it.  It amazes me how the glass holds up.  Got to say I was a sceptic about glass with a wood stove.  I'm a believer.


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## modo (Jan 2, 2011)

As was stated, I think your main hazard would be you trying to move the log or split and it rolling out the door.  That pyro ceram is tough, but I did break mine once in the 15 yrs. ive had my stove by trying to force the door shut on a load of wood.  Had to have another piece cut to order.  Learned to not do that anymore, when she says no she means no! :bug:


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