# Stihl yellow and green blades



## pyper (Jul 29, 2010)

I got a new Stihl saw and I've been reading about it, but I haven't used it yet.

I see that it has a yellow link on the blade, instead of the green link, and that the green link means "low-kickback" blade, while the yellow link means *not* a low-kickback blade.

I'm thinking I ought to take it back and have them put a green blade on it (hopefully an even exchange).

Is there any reason I _wouldn't_ want to do that?


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## smokinj (Jul 29, 2010)

Just depends how well you handle kick back?


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## Skier76 (Jul 29, 2010)

In theory, the yellow the chain will cut better. I had the dealer put a yellow on my MS250 when I bought it. As long as your smart about cutting, you'll be OK. Just be mindful, the saw will have a bit more "pull" when you start your cut. Also, cutting with the top of the bar will result in a bit of push. I'm still getting used to that myself.


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## oldspark (Jul 29, 2010)

Has Stihl been marking there chains this way for a long time, been cutting cutting wood a for ever and did not know the low kick back chains did not cut as good as the other ones,  I assume most in not all of my chains are low kick back.


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## smokinj (Jul 29, 2010)

oldspark said:
			
		

> Has Stihl been marking there chains this way for a long time, been cutting cutting wood a for ever and did not know the low kick back chains did not cut as good as the other ones,  I assume most in not all of my chains are low kick back.



Dont sure how long they have been marking them, but I am with you I dont think it has been very long.


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## JoeCt (Aug 1, 2010)

green good yellow better. not really. stihl has been doing that for a while now with the yellow and green.  green has a little different rake on it for the low kickback. it's stihls saftey so it doesn't bite as hard and no one kills themselves.


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## Yota1 (Aug 2, 2010)

usually you have to request it, so you got lucky.

be a tab bit more mindful when you cut, and enjoy the fat that it through some good chips


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## pyper (Aug 2, 2010)

Yota1 said:
			
		

> usually you have to request it, so you got lucky.
> 
> *be a tab bit more mindful when you cut,* and enjoy the fat that it through some good chips



This from someone whose avatar is a man running with scissors :lol:


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## HittinSteel (Aug 2, 2010)

A good time to switch from green to yellow is when you no longer refer to anything on a chainsaw as a "blade"


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## oldspark (Aug 2, 2010)

If the chain is sharpened correctly the green ones do very well, a shop did one for me a while back and it was very sharp and it cut for a very long time and that was on seasoned oak,  I have a yellow one on one of my saws and it is not as good because after 30 years of cutting I have lost the skill to sharped chains. Maybe an age thing.


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## golfandwoodnut (Aug 3, 2010)

You can buy them for $13 on ebay, so if you want one I would buy some spares.  I prefer the yellow ones, although the green ones do probably hold the edge a little longer, so they do not need sharpened as often.  I have not noticed any kick back with the yellow, but always be careful not matter what the color.  Watch the tip of the chain, that is where the kick comes from, like when it hits a branch when you are cutting through the trunk.


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## Danno77 (Aug 3, 2010)

HittinSteel said:
			
		

> A good time to switch from green to yellow is when you no longer refer to anything on a chainsaw as a "blade"


I'm with you. Every post that I've ever responded to regarding low kickback chains is that nobody here has the answer about when you should ditch a safety chain, and that the answer is always "use a safety chain" as long as you have to ask. YOU'LL know when you are ready for a more aggressive chain. So if you are asking, then you need the safety chain.


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## smokinj (Aug 3, 2010)

Danno77 said:
			
		

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I have the answer when you have file the teeth off of it....lol


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## oldspark (Aug 3, 2010)

smokinjay said:
			
		

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 +1 If sharp they both work well and if they are dull they both suck, not sure they are that much safer, some people have stated on here they would not use a saw with out a brake, have been using one for over 30 years with no problem what so ever.


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## Danno77 (Aug 3, 2010)

oldspark said:
			
		

> +1 If sharp they both work well and if they are dull they both suck, not sure they are that much safer...


I agree on safety concerns because, like the big saw v small saw argument we often see here: the non-safety chain user will finish work faster and because they won't be as tired, then they are less likely to make a mistake due to fatigue. Now, if both users are going to saw all day long, then i suppose it's a wash safety wise, but the safety chained saw won't process as much wood by the end of the day.


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## pyper (Aug 3, 2010)

Danno77 said:
			
		

> I agree on safety concerns because, like the big saw v small saw argument we often see here: the non-safety chain user will finish work faster and because they won't be as tired, then they are less likely to make a mistake due to fatigue.



Interesting point. I can identify with it too, after using the new saw to cut up some logs in a few minutes that would have taken much, much longer with the old one.

The guy at the shop said he keeps one of each and uses the green blade for brush work and the yellow chain for cutting up trees.


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## smokinj (Aug 3, 2010)

pyper said:
			
		

> Danno77 said:
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Done of it really holds much water, if your running a production saw we are talking a few sec's a cut if both are sharpened right...You may get done on the saw a min or two faster. With that said it really comes down to moving the weight....I only have 1 safety chain and its a full comp 28 in. it does well and would not stop using it until the teeth are gone. rule of thump I use is 3 hrs of weight training for every hour on the saw. (with or with safety chain)


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