# Oslo installed today!!



## eightpilot (Jul 28, 2008)

Well it's finally in.  After months of contemplating and measuring and researching it's finally done.  Now I just need to build a hearth extention and we will be ready to rock.  I am a little disappointed on the look of the new chimney cap.  Because I went from an 8" to a 6" pipe it looks odd... oh well.  As long as it works that's all that matters.  I have a pic from behind the stove that shows how the pipe coming out of the stove has a few inches of horizontal before it bends up to a 20ft vertical run.  So I am hoping to have a solid draft.  Just thought I would share some pics, thanks again for all the help guys... 8


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## eightpilot (Jul 28, 2008)

More...


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## begreen (Jul 28, 2008)

??? ???

As noted in other thread. She looks great in her new home, though the hearth rug is not a proper hearth extension. But we know you are going to do a first class extension to match that fine hearth.


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## myzamboni (Jul 28, 2008)

eightpilot said:
			
		

> More...



That's the dog's dangles!!  Nice look!


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## dsil (Jul 28, 2008)

Great stove 8! What color did you decide on? If the TV melts, you can always watch the fire.


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## BrotherBart (Jul 28, 2008)

That is gorgeous. Hearth stoves are the nuts.


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## billb3 (Jul 28, 2008)

I REALLY like the rock  fireplace.


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## Hanko (Jul 28, 2008)

looks nice, youll like the oslo. it does a super job, but one thing. it does not like wet wood, or unseasoned wood, but a load of dry oak will kick out the heat for hours


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## Dix (Jul 29, 2008)

Looking good, 8 !

Whatcha gonna do for the extension?


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## WOODBUTCHER (Jul 29, 2008)

All I have to say is........the next 3 months are gonna creep buy for you....nice looking install!

WoodButcher


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## stanleyjohn (Jul 29, 2008)

Thumbs Up!! Looking good.Hopefully you got a good wood supply ready to feed it.


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## eightpilot (Jul 29, 2008)

I went with the Blue/black enamel and it looks even better in person.  I am going to do up a nice 18" hearth extension later this summer to match the river rock background.  Heres another pic from the loft area.  As you can see I have alot of volune to heat so I hope the Oslo is up for the task... 8


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## DiscoInferno (Jul 29, 2008)

Wow, your house looks familiar.  (See pics.)  Since you're in WI, is that by chance a Wisconsin Homes modular, loft model?

I eventually want to do pretty much exactly what you did, but I've been a little stumped on getting a high enough R-value under the stove.  Here's my question, which I didn't see in the older threads.  Is your hearth real solid stone and mortar down to the floor, or a "cultured" veneer like mine?  Because on mine the stone is affixed to what sure looks like wood (particle board or similar), and I'm pretty certain that my 2.5" thick concrete slab is sitting on wood framing, meaning an R-value of about 0.25.  Most stoves need a lot more than that below them.  Did that come up in your discussions with the installer?

Edit:  Do you have a picture of that new chimney cap?  We appear to have roughly the same fireplace (mine is a Majestic WMC42) and mine has a 3-wall air-cooled chimney (8", 11" and 14" diameters).  My current cap is a beast that connects to all three walls.  I'm curious how your installer handled a 4th 6" pipe without exposing the existing chimney to rain.

Edit Edit: I pulled down the Oslo manual.  Surprisingly, for non-alcove installations all it appears to require is a noncombustable surface under the stove.  No mention of R-value at all.  For alcoves it requires both a bottom heat shield and an R-value of 1.6 underneath.  I'll be curious to find out how hot your slab and the stone surround get this winter.  For my setup I can still see a potential problem with the proximity of the wood behind the stone on either side and above the fireplace.


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## eightpilot (Jul 29, 2008)

Hey Disco,  my home was stick built by a local builder.  It was designed after a Wausau Home floor plan though.  I have no idea about R value of my 2.5" stone hearth.  I do know that the installer did put the bottom heat shield on and the manual like you said doesn't address this issue.  The bottom shied comes with the stove and is not listed as an option.  Other then the ashpan, the bottom of the stove is 9+ inches above the stone with a full heat shield attached to it.  I don't think it will be an issue.  The chimney cap had a block off plate that was siliconed and screwed into place.  It leave the bottom screen intact to provide airflow, but prevent water from seeping in.  It looks like it should work.  I just don't like the cheesy cap that I paid $61 for...8

I did have an WMC42 also...


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## DiscoInferno (Jul 29, 2008)

Did you have any problems fitting the elbow/pipe under the WMC42 opening and into the Oslo collar?  Going by the manual the top of the pipe in the collar is a little over 28" high, and the top of my WMC opening is slightly lower than that without cutting metal.

Anyway, I'll be looking for a report this winter as to how this setup is working out.


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## eightpilot (Jul 29, 2008)

Don't worry about the sides.  We have the same ZC Majestic fireplace and the Oslo will fit.  The installer had the model number of my Majestic and plugged it into the CAD system for fitting issues.  He also contacted Jotul about my installation and they said if I use the rear heat shield it will get my corner clearances down to 9".  The wood framing behind the stone of our existing fireplaces is at just over 10 from the corners of the Oslo.  Your golden.  I didn't need the rear heatshield for behind the stove, I needed it for the corners...8


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## eightpilot (Jul 29, 2008)

No issues with the pipe.  The manual measurements are off a little.  The collar when reversed is adjustable up and down about 1".  It will fit in there just perfect.  We slid my stove in with no cutting or adjusting needed at all.  I was shocked.  8


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## granpajohn (Jul 29, 2008)

I guess you've checked....That wooden mantle OK? (Hard to tell in photos with stone not brick)
I looked hard at the same setup, but would've had to raise (or shield) my mantle, per Jotul spec. (That was not the primary problem for us though.)

I really like the look.


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## eightpilot (Jul 29, 2008)

See...


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## eightpilot (Jul 29, 2008)

I am still looking for a copper mantle shield.  I might have to fab one up if I cant find one pre-made.  I definitely need one though, I missed the clearance by 4 inches.  8


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## Highbeam (Jul 29, 2008)

So why didn't you install a Tee behind the stove to allow you to clean the chimney without tearing everything apart?

It does look very nice and I am very envious of your ceiling as well.


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## eightpilot (Jul 29, 2008)

I thought about it alot and decided to go with the elbow instead because of draft issues I had previously.  I know the T is convenient, but if I burn good wood at the right temp I won't be cleaning the pipe often anyway.


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## eightpilot (Jul 29, 2008)

Beautiful stove....and dog, by the way.  8


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## wahoowad (Jul 29, 2008)

Maybe to get your mantle clearance you could remove the 90 elbow, run some doublewall stovepipe back and into a tee. Dblwall stoepie reduces clearances a lot - I forget how much but it should be in your Oslo manual. I bought an adjustable dblwall stovepipe that goes from like 12 to 18 inches to get it just right.


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## Highbeam (Jul 29, 2008)

eightpilot said:
			
		

> Beautiful stove....and dog, by the way.  8



Woops, sorry 8, that's not my stove or dog. In fact, I think the dog passed on. I just like the photo and the tee seems handy for cleaning.


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## eightpilot (Jul 29, 2008)

wahoowad said:
			
		

> Maybe to get your mantle clearance you could remove the 90 elbow, run some doublewall stovepipe back and into a tee. Dblwall stoepie reduces clearances a lot - I forget how much but it should be in your Oslo manual. I bought an adjustable dblwall stovepipe that goes from like 12 to 18 inches to get it just right.



The mantle clearance is measured from the top of the stove, not the stovepipe.  The manual says 30 inches, no less.  I will try to find a copper one if I can, otherwise i can get a black one from my dealer.


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## acesover (Jul 31, 2008)

thats a nice looking fire place and chimney too and the stove fits nicely.  good luck with it


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## webbie (Aug 1, 2008)

Interestingly enough, the manual does not in any way imply that the stove can be installed into the prefab fireplace - as you have probably seen, it specifically addresses masonry only.

I know Jotul has oked this before if all clearances are met, and with the read heat shield you are meeting them. That's good.

My problem with this stuff.....which is off-topic in this thread - is that people will see it and think that most any stove can be installed in front of most any prefab. In most cases, this is not true at all. Anyone thinking of doing this better have all the I's dotted and T's crossed......and, of course, clearances maintained.

As eight suggests, there is combustible wood in the wall all around these fireplaces and the stone face does nothing to reduce clearances.


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## eightpilot (Aug 2, 2008)

The only reason my stove fit was because the old majestic ZC was soooo big.  The width of the metal prefab opening was almost 50" between combustables.  My stove only need 9" on either side to meet the clearances, as long as I used the rear heat shield.  We will see this winter how hot it gets along side the stove.  I can always make some heat shields for the side if it gets the stones too hot.  8


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## DiscoInferno (Aug 2, 2008)

And I'm rather relieved to see that it can be done, given my nearly identical setup.  I had sort of resigned myself to needing to pull out the prefab and either replacing it with an EPA ZC or building an alcove in its place.  I had actually figured the R-value underneath would be the harder issue.

Of course, I really wish I had gotten into wood heating before I built the house and paid for the current setup, but such is life.


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## Todd (Aug 2, 2008)

What about the chimney? Are those pre fabs approved for a stove or do you have to reline with a class A?


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## DiscoInferno (Aug 2, 2008)

I'm not sure about 8's, but my WMC42 (prefab) has a HT2100 chimney (8" ID triple-wall air-cooled).  I don't know if it is "approved" to do either a direct-connect or a relining, but both should be safe.


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## eightpilot (Aug 3, 2008)

I had a 6" stainless rigid liner put inside of the 8" pre fab.  8


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## Rickochet (Aug 9, 2008)

Nice set up  The rock rocks!!


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