# Should I buy a chainsaw



## Birdbrain (Oct 23, 2017)

Never used one, husband always did.  I only need to cut small stuff, maybe slab wood.  I want some independence from waiting for my adult children to do it for me.  Bigger firewood they will help with.  Someone offered me a few truckloads of fire wood...it will arrive soon.   One son has a lot of dead ash and much more.  So I just want to cut small stuff.  

I was reading comments here about chainsaws and think I want battery to be more flexible.  But I am unsure if I should use a chain saw.....I hear about things like kick back etc.

I welcome input.  I think I can do it


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## jetsam (Oct 23, 2017)

Well, if you have stuff to cut and you think you can do it, go for it.

Some reading is required. Read up about kickback and chainsaw safety, and learn to sharpen a chain.

Kickback is going to be mild on a battery powered saw with a safety chain, but you still need to understand the principle.


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## Blazing (Oct 23, 2017)

Proper ppe is a must in my opinion. If you end up choosing a saw add a set of chaps in with the purchase.


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## Woodsplitter67 (Oct 23, 2017)

I say do it... at one point in our lives all of us have never used one.. by useing and watching others we all have gotten better. I say do some reading.. have someone spend some time with you and go over it.. start with a smaller saw like a 16 in bar
Have fun... cut some wood


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## Prof (Oct 23, 2017)

You come to a forum like this to ask if you need a saw. Kinda like walking into a bar and asking if you should have a drink. We all have a problem here and think about burning wood, cutting wood, and all related activities way more than we probably should. My wife just rolls her eyes when we drive through town and I comment on the quality of smoke coming out of people's stacks. But to answer your question--of course you should get a saw. For what you described, one of the battery saws might fit the bill quite well. Happy cutting!


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## Birdbrain (Oct 23, 2017)

Thank you all.  Seems obvious now: Remember there's a first time for everything, read up on kick back, safety and learn to understand the saw, go over it with someone,  and have fun.  Sounds like a plan, I am encouraged.  And happy sawing to all of you.


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## Birdbrain (Oct 23, 2017)

.....also get safety chaps with the saw....


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## johneh (Oct 23, 2017)

My wife has her own chain saw and has had one for the last 30 years 
Some times I think she is better with it than I am . Here in Ontario there
is a chain saw course that gives you a lic. to use a saw off you own property 
she has her lic. and is proud of the fact . We cut and process our fire wood together 
Get your self a saw and learn how to use it safely.


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## VirginiaIron (Oct 23, 2017)

YouTube is flush with help, but all will usually indicate the video is not for training purposes. I have learned so much from those videos.


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## Birdbrain (Oct 23, 2017)

A class would be nice, I will check into it.


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## Prof (Oct 23, 2017)

Birdbrain said:


> .....also get safety chaps with the saw....


Chaps aren't all that effective with electric saws--which ironically have much higher torque than their gas counterparts. I'd probably still wear them.


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## Birdbrain (Oct 23, 2017)

@Prof...could you explain more about your comment the chaps are not as effective with electric chainsaws?


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## Prof (Oct 23, 2017)

Birdbrain said:


> @Prof...could you explain more about your comment the chaps are not as effective with electric chainsaws?


I was at my Stihl dealer a couple weeks ago and he mentioned this to me. Apparently, gas saws are easier to bog down, so when all of the fibers in the chaps get caught up in the chain, it stops the chain from spinning. The electric motor just keeps spinning the chain. This surprised me, since the electric saws seemed way less capable to me than most gas saws, but my subsequent google search confirmed his assertion on this matter. Someone may come along and explain it better than me, but this is my understanding. I wouldn't rule out an electric saw, but I would want you to make an informed decision.


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## Birdbrain (Oct 23, 2017)

Well, I thought about electric because I generally am not good with pull chords and the weight.  Do ant have further thoughts?


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## Prof (Oct 23, 2017)

Birdbrain said:


> Well, I thought about electric because I generally am not good with pull chords and the weight.  Do ant have further thoughts?


The electrics have a definite advantage in many ways--nothing to pull, no mixing fuel, no air filter to clean, no worries about storage (with the gas saws, you always have to worry about fuel going bad and making a wreck of the saw). They are a bit pricey and don't have the run time or cutting capability that their larger gas counterparts have. Honestly, if they were able to effectively cut up the big stuff, I would have likely made the switch. I get no joy from maintaining a gas engine.


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Oct 23, 2017)

Proceed with extreme caution! But, proceed nonetheless, if you are of the mind. Dad put a chainsaw in my hands when I was 13, and looking back, I'm fortunate to have made it this far. I remain terrified of the things, 30 years in, which probably explains it.  I own 7 and use them regularly. Sometimes one in each hand. Well, maybe not that last part...


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## Birdbrain (Oct 23, 2017)

Well, hmmmm


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Oct 23, 2017)

Birdbrain said:


> Well, hmmmm


Safety glasses. Ear protection (maybe not for electric). Gloves. Hard leather shoes. 

The chain is literally dozens of razor sharp chisels spinning toward you with very little in the way of guards. Even when you do everything right, they are still objects of mayhem. This is not hyperbole. Stay out of the way of all those little knives at all times.  Just go into it knowing what you are going into. Good luck with your decision!


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## Birdbrain (Oct 23, 2017)

A lot to think about.  I saw on one thread someone uses a one person cross cut saw, said he can hear the birds sing when he cuts and doesn't need protective gear.  I really do not have to accomplish much, just small stuff to help the fire along.


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## jetsam (Oct 23, 2017)

Birdbrain said:


> A lot to think about.  I saw on one thread someone uses a one person cross cut saw, said he can hear the birds sing when he cuts and doesn't need protective gear.  I really do not have to accomplish much, just small stuff to help the fire along.



Consider trying a bow saw. They use a crosscut blade, but are much smaller than a crosscut saw. You can get a decent one for under $20.

 I have two chainsaws, and I still use my bow saw for small stuff sometimes.


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## beatlefan (Oct 23, 2017)

I recommend you buy from a saw dealer.  Not a big box store.  They’ll be more knowledgeable and better equipped to help you choose the right saw.  I’m sure they can offer you some pointers on safe operation too.


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## highanddryinco (Oct 24, 2017)

Your "I think I can do it" attitude is a good start. How about a friend or neighbor maybe that has one and they can help you with a log or two while you see if it's for you or not?

Gas or Electric...you still need to learn almost all the same basic skills both in cutting and in maintenance. Electric only means that you don't have to deal with fuel. You still have to add oil, adjust the chain, and sharpen it. And with electric, you'll either have to drag a cord around with you or charge batteries. As far as fuel goes and the little it sounds like you'll be cutting, buy fuel pre-mixed in a can and you'll have zero issues.

You can probably see that I'd lean toward a gas model, there's a certain freedom with it.
And without going down the Ford vs. Chevy road, one of my saws is a small Stihl 180 with spring assisted EZ-start feature. It really is easy and my wife can start and run that saw. They also make the 170 model and this time of year it is almost always on sale at a dealer.

Best of luck on your decision and most of all, have fun and be safe. Be careful though, cutting wood can be addicting.


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## TreePointer (Oct 24, 2017)

1. Watch chainsaw safety & operation video from Stihl or Husqvarna.  *WATCH ALL OF IT.*


2. Although the video covers just about everything, some newer saws may have a feature/control that's not in the video, so reading your manual also is helpful.

3. Minimum PPE = chaps, steel toe/composite toe boots, gloves, eye & ear protection.  Helmet or forestry helmet system if dropping trees.  *WEAR IT EVERY TIME.*

4. Visit dealer and pick up saws to get a feel for what weight you can handle.  Larger displacement (cc's) mostly means more powerful.   A good 50cc saw with a 16-18" bar can handle a lot of wood diameters.  There are also some smaller diaplacement saws that are lighter and are good performers for their displacement, and this is all you may need for your smaller diameters.

I like the idea of a dealer being involved.  They can show you features on newer saws that make things easier, like Stihl's Easy2Start system.


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## Birdbrain (Oct 24, 2017)

Thanks again for sobering thoughts.   

I realize I need to take time to see what I really need and to learn about the saws.  I have been to Lowe's, HD, and a hardware.  None of above really knew much.  I will go to a couple dealers and start there.  To start this winter I think I will use a hand saw, i.e. Bow or arbor, and see what I would like to be able to cut.  

I plan to move ahead, just slower.


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## Giles (Oct 24, 2017)

Birdbrain said:


> Never used one, husband always did.  I only need to cut small stuff, maybe slab wood.  I want some independence from waiting for my adult children to do it for me.  Bigger firewood they will help with.  Someone offered me a few truckloads of fire wood...it will arrive soon.   One son has a lot of dead ash and much more.  So I just want to cut small stuff.
> 
> I was reading comments here about chainsaws and think I want battery to be more flexible.  But I am unsure if I should use a chain saw.....I hear about things like kick back etc.
> 
> I welcome input.  I think I can do it



I have worked on and used chainsaws for over 50 years.
I can assure you that a chainsaw is one of the most dangerous hand held tools you will ever operate.
Years ago, and older gentleman gave me some great advise.
He advised me to start out and always keep your left elbow locked straight out. That way, when kickback occurs, saw will go up and not back!
Over the years, I have found a few cutting situations where the "locked elbow" seems uncomfortable but doable.
Regardless of how careful you are, kickback is likely to occur and I am in agreement that you need to understand what it is and how to avoid it.
If you choose corded electric, be sure it is GFCI protected.


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Oct 24, 2017)

Giles said:


> I have worked on and used chainsaws for over 50 years.
> I can assure you that a chainsaw is one of the most dangerous hand held tools you will ever operate.
> Years ago, and older gentleman gave me some great advise.
> He advised me to start out and always keep your left elbow locked straight out. That way, when kickback occurs, saw will go up and not back!
> ...


Hey Giles- Curious about your emphasis on the GFCI protection? What are the biggest concerns?


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## Giles (Oct 24, 2017)

GFCI-- Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter.
I am not an electrician but have a good knowledge of GFCI usages.
Cutting the cord would be my greatest concern for electrical shock, especially on wet ground.
These are cheap safety items that could save your life. They don't protect the tool, they protect YOU.
Someone more knowledgeable then I may be able to make a better explanation.


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## Prof (Oct 24, 2017)

Birdbrain said:


> Thanks again for sobering thoughts.
> 
> I realize I need to take time to see what I really need and to learn about the saws.  I have been to Lowe's, HD, and a hardware.  None of above really knew much.  I will go to a couple dealers and start there.  To start this winter I think I will use a hand saw, i.e. Bow or arbor, and see what I would like to be able to cut.
> 
> I plan to move ahead, just slower.


I think you are getting some top notch advice here for sure. Keep in mind that you already use really dangerous tools--a car for instance. Heck, people kill themselves every year by sticking a fork into a toaster, and you've managed that all right so far. I think you are doing the right thing by researching, asking advice from people who have experience, and so on. You have a much better attitude than I did when I was a brash 20 something year old teaching myself how to use a chainsaw. I guess my take home message here is that you know a lot about how to not get seriously hurt or get yourself killed already and you are just applying this to chainsaws right now. You are asking the right questions in my opinion.


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## jetsam (Oct 24, 2017)

A chainsaw isn't too dangerous for any thoughtful, patient person to learn to use. The question is whether it's the best tool for your job!

I learned chainsaw safety on saws whose main safety feature was that they took half an hour to start and ran out of gas pretty fast, using the 'stick the pointy end in the tree and see what happens' method.  I am not advising this, of course, but it's not an automatic death sentence.


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## Giles (Oct 24, 2017)

I am really surprised that some believe a chainsaw is no more dangerous then other powered tools?
I have been using a chainsaw for many years and I have had some close calls.  I have a machine shop with hundreds of powered tools that are all somewhat dangerous.
Can anyone suggest a power tool that is more dangerous then a chainsaw? If so, I probably have it but I just have a different opinion.


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## jetsam (Oct 24, 2017)

Giles said:


> I am really surprised that some believe a chainsaw is no more dangerous then other powered tools?
> I have been using a chainsaw for many years and I have had some close calls.  I have a machine shop with hundreds of powered tools that are all somewhat dangerous.
> Can anyone suggest a power tool that is more dangerous then a chainsaw? If so, I probably have it but I just have a different opinion.



Circle saw!

Although the rate of injuries might just be a lot higher because they're a lot more common.

Personally, I've had more sobering moments with a chainsaw than a circle saw, but I have a LOT more hours on chainsaws than circle saws.


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## Giles (Oct 24, 2017)

jetsam said:


> Circle saw!
> 
> Although the rate of injuries might just be a lot higher because they're a lot more common.
> 
> Personally, I've had more sobering moments with a chainsaw than a circle saw, but I have a LOT more hours on chainsaws than circle saws.


Like I said --we have different opinions.


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## redktmrider (Oct 24, 2017)

Giles said:


> Can anyone suggest a power tool that is more dangerous then a chainsaw? If so, I probably have it but I just have a different opinion.



Tablesaw! It scares the H E double L out of me every time I use it! Even with the guards on.


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## jetsam (Oct 24, 2017)

Giles said:


> Like I said --we have different opinions.



We also have facts- feel free to look it up yourself.
https://www.cpsc.gov/cgibin/NEISSQuery/PerformEstimates.aspx
https://www.cpsc.gov/cgibin/NEISSQuery/PerformEstimates.aspx

Pick a date range that suits your fancy. The product code for chainsaws is 1411, and the product code for circle saws is 0832.

That is a fascinating database, by the way. You can drill down to individual reports and find pretty much anyone you know who's been injured or died on the job in there, if you know when and where it happened.


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## jetsam (Oct 24, 2017)

redktmrider said:


> Tablesaw! It scares the H E double L out of me every time I use it! Even with the guards on.



Table saws are 0841!


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## jetsam (Oct 24, 2017)

Lordy, the word "amputation" appears in a whole lot of those tablesaw incidents. (Press 'View cases online' after you run a query.)


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## redktmrider (Oct 24, 2017)

jetsam said:


> Lordy, the word "amputation" appears in a whole lot of those tablesaw incidents. (Press 'View cases online' after you run a query.)



The one about "degloving" really makes me ill.


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## jetsam (Oct 24, 2017)

On a lighter note, 1660 is umbrellas.

"38 YOM PRESENTS WITH PAIN IN RIGHT SHOULDER DUE TO RIDING HIS BICYCLE W HILE HOLDING AND UMBRELLA AND FELL. DX: ANTERIOR DISLOCATION - SHOULDER"


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## Birdbrain (Oct 25, 2017)

Thank you for the link, could not go there, too weak of a stomach.

I appreciate all the dialogue.  Ignorance and tools are not a good combination.  At a family gathering last year. Granddaughter ran into the kitchen and grabbed a knife.  I said whoa!  What are you doing?  She said we are going to cut apples.  I said no, that one is very sharp, get a butter knife.  I went back to cooking.  I did not realize she ran out with it anyway, my grandson, younger, too knife, Apple in palm and swung.....cut himself clear across palm!

All blades scare me.  My husband was scared of all his power saws, did not want me using them.  He never used safety gear, I would buy googles and such, they were never used.   My sons don't either.  Which I wish they would.

Right now a grandson reading with me all these posts, showed  me a foresters supply online.   This year I will use hand tools to cut small limbs and whatever.  I will continue to learn about power tools and see.


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Oct 25, 2017)

Birdbrain said:


> Thank you for the link, could not go there, too weak of a stomach.
> 
> I appreciate all the dialogue.  Ignorance and tools are not a good combination.  At a family gathering last year. Granddaughter ran into the kitchen and grabbed a knife.  I said whoa!  What are you doing?  She said we are going to cut apples.  I said no, that one is very sharp, get a butter knife.  I went back to cooking.  I did not realize she ran out with it anyway, my grandson, younger, too knife, Apple in palm and swung.....cut himself clear across palm!
> 
> ...


I like your plan. 

Of all my saws, my favorite to use are powered by me- my fiskars pruning saw, pole saw, and bow saw. I only use all those chainsaws because I have to. I don't enjoy it. But, I've even been injured by the hand saws! Those injuries have all been minor, though.


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## Zack R (Oct 25, 2017)

Birdbrain said:


> Never used one, husband always did.  I only need to cut small stuff, maybe slab wood.  I want some independence from waiting for my adult children to do it for me.  Bigger firewood they will help with.  Someone offered me a few truckloads of fire wood...it will arrive soon.   One son has a lot of dead ash and much more.  So I just want to cut small stuff.
> 
> I was reading comments here about chainsaws and think I want battery to be more flexible.  But I am unsure if I should use a chain saw.....I hear about things like kick back etc.
> 
> I welcome input.  I think I can do it




I'm a new chainsaw user as of April this year. I pretty much fell into a situation where one was needed due to a massive windstorm in the Olympia, WA area that took out thousands of trees and knocked out power for three plus days. I was visiting my in laws and they had a 100'+ douglas fir that was leaning toward the house and fortunately had a tree service come and take it down before it fell. Because the demand to take down damaged trees was so high the tree service left the remains of the tree in the driveway and proceeded quickly to the next house to take trees down for them.

I had always wanted a chainsaw (who doesn't like to have more tools) but previously never really needed one. I went down to the local Stihl dealer and picked up a little MS211 for less than $300, the rationale being that it was a good homeowner saw that was light and easy to handle. The dealer explained all of the differences between homeowner saws, pro saws, etc and was very helpful. They fired up the saw and fine tuned it before I left, showing me how to adjust the chain tension and explaining the safety features (you will not find someone this helpful at a big box store).

Excited about my purchase and ready to tackle the task at hand I just dove in and started cutting. Having not used a chainsaw but being very familiar with power tools in general I did read the manual to some extent to get a better grasp on the finer details of operation. At the time the MS211 seemed quite powerful and did a good job with tree cleanup. I probably pushed it harder than it would have liked bucking up that douglas fir but instead of forcing it I just let the saw go at its own pace. The 16" bar wasn't enough (the log diameter was closer to 25") so I just spun each piece around to finish the cut.












They key takeaways from that cleanup job:

1. Chainsaws are enjoyable to use but can tire you out.
2. Chainsaws are tools that happen to be dangerous. How dangerous they are is up to the user.
3. Start with a smaller saw. Read the user manual. 
4. Be diligent in each step you take. Think about what will happen once the cut is finished.
5. Constantly assess your position for safety and ergonomics to avoid injury.
6. Don't get tired and sloppy. If you are tired take a break.
7. Don't be in a hurry. Let the saw do the work. Stop and sharpen the chain when needed.

Now that I had the chainsaw bug it just so happened we decided to install a wood stove later this summer. I continued using the MS211 to gather firewood and found myself in a situation where it couldn't keep up with the volume and size of logs I was asking it to cut. I continued to become more comfortable using the saw and decided it needed a larger companion for the bigger logs.

A few weeks later and I have a new to me Husqvarna 365 Special, bought from craigslist from the original owner (model year 2000, fresh from a service, clean, included the manuals and a brand new 20" sugihara bar and oregon semi chisel chain). I researched saws for a while and decided to get something older that I could modify later if I wanted, but that would be large enough that I wouldn't get the bug to upgrade again (buy once, cry once).






In short this was a whole different animal. Never would I recommend anyone to start with a saw in this league. It sounds like a small dirtbike when you fire it up and although its not heavy for what it is, its definitely heavier than the MS211. I proceeded to do some test cuts and it walked through logs like they were nothing. To this day I continue to master the beast and it puts a smile on my face each time I bury it into a log and the chips start flying. I still use the MS211 for smaller logs and removing limbs, for which it does a great job with. There is something very satisfying about using a chainsaw, I don't' really know how to describe the feeling but its as if the saw is summoning me to pick it up and get some work done. I also enjoy cleaning it, sharpening the chain, the smell, the whole experience.

In conclusion it sounds like you have your mind made up. Find a good nearby dealer and see if they have any saws you can try out and learn about. Start small, stay safe, and be confident in your abilities.


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## Dobish (Oct 25, 2017)

yes. but as others have mentioned, use proper protective equipment.  Chaps, eye protection, steel toes, etc. 

its the little things that get you.


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## maple1 (Oct 27, 2017)

PPE - a must have, absolutely.

First on the list for me is pants or chaps, along with boots. Not ordinary steel toe work boots, but chainsaw boots. (You can use them for way more than chain sawing). If you get side by side with each type of boot and examine what is & isn't protected by each, you should be able to tell why saw boots are a must - would be pretty easy to get your chain into your foot or shin and miss the steel toe. Next would be hard hat/face shield/muff combo. But if not felling, I would would put gloves ahead of that if you have ear plugs & safety glasses. I don't do anything without gloves - don't know what it is but as soon as I try to do something without them I am skinning a knuckle.

So to answer your question - yes.


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## VirginiaIron (Oct 27, 2017)

Giles said:


> I am really surprised that some believe a chainsaw is no more dangerous then other powered tools?
> I have been using a chainsaw for many years and I have had some close calls.  I have a machine shop with hundreds of powered tools that are all somewhat dangerous.
> Can anyone suggest a power tool that is more dangerous then a chainsaw? If so, I probably have it but I just have a different opinion.


They are all dangerous. Circular saws and table saws have the automatic gards. Table saws generally have a fixed working station with level footing. Circular saws and chainsaws usually permit the operator to position himself in a compromised position while allowing the tool to remain in motion. I have had close calls with high and low speed- high torgue drills. Imho, any tool requires respect, even a screwdriver,  and 20 inches of razor sharp surface can be devastatingly dangerous if you read your log or work area incorrectly.


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## Birdbrain (Oct 28, 2017)

I wil be in my new house  in a couple weeks.   I think the dust will settle a little on all my changes.  I saw a post somewhere on hearth.com.  A man's wife in Canada took classes and has a license.  I would like to find a class.
I will go to a couple dealers this winter.  I do like my toes!


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## beatlefan (Oct 28, 2017)

Birdbrain said:


> I wil be in my new house  in a couple weeks.   I think the dust will settle a little on all my changes.  I saw a post somewhere on hearth.com.  A man's wife in Canada took classes and has a license.  I would like to find a class.
> I will go to a couple dealers this winter.  I do like my toes!


Sounds like a great idea Birdbrain.  Take a class, buy a small saw and have at it.  You’re gonna do just fine.  A little common sense goes a long way.


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## xman23 (Oct 28, 2017)

Birdbrain, with all the excellent comments from seasoned wood guys your still not out buying a saw. I assume your new at this and plan on feeding a wood stove. You can get split wood delivered. But it will be hard to get by without a chain saw. You can go with the electrics and cheaper saws to get your comfort level up. But I suggest a higher end quality saw, and you won't regret it.

Next year it will be the splitter.


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## Jazzberry (Oct 28, 2017)

I know a couple carpenters that can't pick their nose with their preferred hand due to a radial arm saw. I hear more about accidents from a chainsaw due to a helper walking behind the user than from the user getting hurt.


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## Seasoned Oak (Oct 28, 2017)

A battery powered saw would be a great start. Next in line is a plug in electric. I have 2 ,a nice 12" saw which really can do the lions share of the cutting ,and  a 16 in craftsman electric that can do the really big stuff. I used to have a gas powered saw but frankly with all the starting problems ,gas mixing, ect ect that goes with a small gas engine i just gave up on em.  If i run into anything i cant handle ,my son has one of those Huge Stihl  saws that just obliterate whatever is in front of them. I wont touch it.


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## TreePointer (Oct 28, 2017)

If you wear your PPE and learn from watching the video, I have confidence that just about anyone can be safe saw operator.  A little tutorial from a family member or neighbor can be a great confidence builder.


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## jwfirebird (Oct 28, 2017)

think your best bet is training, being smart about what your doing and not over buying a huge saw if you dont need it is the smartest plan seems like you have that idea. still dealer in town is a great source for me on what i need and didnt for ppe and the saw, why i buy my equipment and supplies there. 

i use two "sizes" now, you end up beat and i had a near miss because i was tired, moved it toward me after the cut and in half a second destoyed my bibs, but at least i was wearing them, so embarrassment was the only lasting issue. and now i have alot mare respect for not doing it tired and use a battery saws-all and a brush blade for all the stuff under 3-4 inches. they cut surprisingly fast and dont wear on you so bad when you are bending around and they dont get stuck as easy


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## Seasoned Oak (Oct 29, 2017)

Just remember it s not toy ,respect it greatly cuz it can bite you really bad if misused ,like most powered tools. Getting a little training from someone familiar with these saws is never wasted and good luck!


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## Seasoned Oak (Oct 29, 2017)

One other thing to try: If you have access to battery powered tools, saws,  or sawsall?  THey can make short work of a medium sized tree. I use my royobi sawsall and rip saw all the time to trim and cut small to medium sized trees. I have a special wood trimming  blade for the sawsall thats 12 in long. The sawsall would be a safer option for the first timers. This baby will probably be my next purchase as i already have 5 extra batteries. And i use  a saw for camping and at an off the grid country place.  
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-O...EC-_-rv_gm_pip_rr-_-206110127-_-206110127-_-N


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## TreePointer (Oct 29, 2017)

Let's keep it simple:

Q: "Should I buy a chainsaw?"
A: Yes.

Got a lot of wood to cut?  Get a chainsaw.  Pretty simple.  Really, nothing anybody here will tell you can get you over the hump in terms of getting the confidence to make that first cut.  Once you do, however, look out!  It may become your favorite power tool.  It is mine.


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## xman23 (Oct 29, 2017)

TreePointer said:


> Let's keep it simple:
> 
> Q: "Should I buy a chainsaw?"
> A: Yes.
> ...




Yes, well said


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## jetsam (Oct 29, 2017)

TreePointer said:


> It may become your favorite power tool.  It is mine.



Come on, your profile picture is a tractor with a bucket on the front. The chainsaw is #1, really?


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## TreePointer (Oct 30, 2017)

jetsam said:


> Come on, your profile picture is a tractor with a bucket on the front. The chainsaw is #1, really?



Lol!  Maybe I should have said "favorite *hand held* power tool."

I will say that sometimes tractors do get boring going back and forth when working a field.  I've never been bored running a chainsaw, and I jump at opportunities to use one.


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## Sodbuster (Oct 30, 2017)

Allow me to buck the trend here, and be pragmatic for a moment. If you are working, and you rely on your hands/arms to make a living, I'd say have a neighbor or son do it. My wife makes her living with her hands, giving anesthesia. If she were to irreparably  damage a tendon or nerve in her hand or arm, to the point she couldn't mask a patient down, her career would be over.  My grandfather had a saw chain snap and wrap itself around his arm. He was lucky and only had deep cuts, it could've been much worse.


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## jetsam (Oct 30, 2017)

Sodbuster said:


> Allow me to buck the trend here, and be pragmatic for a moment. If you are working, and you rely on your hands/arms to make a living, I'd say have a neighbor or son do it. My wife makes her living with her hands, giving anesthesia. If she were to irreparably  damage a tendon or nerve in her hand or arm, to the point she couldn't mask a patient down, her career would be over.  My grandfather had a saw chain snap and wrap itself around his arm. He was lucky and only had deep cuts, it could've been much worse.



They are much less likely to do that these days. They've had chain catchers for decades.


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## Sodbuster (Oct 31, 2017)

jetsam said:


> They are much less likely to do that these days. They've had chain catchers for decades.




Agreed, that was on an old Homelite Super XL, I inherited it, and used it till it was too tired, great saw. I'll stick to the cutting and splitting , my wife and daughter can do the stacking. They are better anyway.


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## Woody5506 (Oct 31, 2017)

Sometimes I think people get bugged out over using a chainsaw because it CAN be a very dangerous tool to use, if you're being careless. Overall, in my opinion, a chainsaw is fairly self explanatory, and there isn't a whole lot of need to be making a huge science project out of using one. If you're cutting down trees then that's one thing, but if you're just hacking up rounds into firewood size pieces, it's not a difficult tool to use. 

I encourage you to get one, have someone give you a quick run down on how to use it efficiently, and don't bug yourself out over it.


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## Birdbrain (Nov 20, 2017)

Well, thanks again to all, I learned a lot here.  Was excited about getting started.  For now, my decision for this winter was made by circumstances.  I slipped a disc a day doing almost all better, but it is tender and bending forward with any weight is not good right now.


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## Prof (Nov 20, 2017)

Birdbrain said:


> Well, thanks again to all, I learned a lot here.  Was excited about getting started.  For now, my decision for this winter was made by circumstances.  I slipped a disc a day doing almost all better, but it is tender and bending forward with any weight is not good right now.


Hope you feel better soon--best wishes!


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## rowerwet (Nov 22, 2017)

Since you are looking to cut wood without killing or maiming yourself, and without wearing yourself out.
I would look into a Sawzall and a package of long brush cutting blades
Since the blade goes in and out instead of around in a loop, the forces and dangers are much lower.
Look for blades that have large agressive teeth.
These kind of saws come in cordless and corded, and will handle branches and small logs.


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## SeanBB (Nov 23, 2017)

Birdbrain said:


> Well, thanks again to all, I learned a lot here.  Was excited about getting started.  For now, my decision for this winter was made by circumstances.  I slipped a disc a day doing almost all better, but it is tender and bending forward with any weight is not good right now.



Hope you get well soon.
When your back is better I suggest you ask friends and family if they know anyone with a chainsaw that would let you try using it under their supervision. I am sure they would be happy to do that. I think a corded electric chainsaw would suit you best. They are lighter, quieter and almost no vibration. Of course they have some limitations but they are not expensive and later you can always buy a gas one if you need to. If I am cutting anything near my buildings I prefer to use an electric chainsaw.


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## H2oWerker (Nov 24, 2017)

Zack R said:


> 4. Be diligent in each step you take. Think about what will happen once the cut is finished.
> 5. Constantly assess your position for safety and ergonomics to avoid injury.
> 6. Don't get tired and sloppy. If you are tired take a break.
> 7. Don't be in a hurry. Let the saw do the work. Stop and sharpen the chain when needed.




Those are some extremely important words of wisdom! Fatigue, and gravity are powerful forces that can maim and kill. 


Aside from that, I would highly recommend a cordless chainsaw for a beginner/novice who intends to cut small. We have one at work (also have a husky rancher 18") for handling downed tree limbs. It's super handy to have around (might get one for myself) and only half the maintenance.

Power:
The newer Li-ion batteries will power through about 100 6" limbs between charges (I have yet to kill a battery on a job) 

Safety:
While it has all the physical hazards (except noise) of it's gas-powered counterparts, it's really quiet, and you can hear (mostly) the world around you. So the creaking and snapping of something ready to break may well warn you that it's time to step back and reassess the situation before something unexpected happens.


*Side note* The cordless chainsaw we use is part of a nearly full line of yard equipment. We also use a single stage snow thrower that I am always amazed by. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk


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## Seasoned Oak (Jun 13, 2018)

Just got a Ryobi 18Volt 10 In cordless chainsaw. It takes the same batteries as most of their tools. Nice and light weight,should be a good limbing saw.


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Jun 14, 2018)

Seasoned Oak said:


> Just got a Ryobi 18Volt 10 In cordless chainsaw. It takes the same batteries as most of their tools. Nice and light weight,should be a good limbing saw.


Just bought a hedge trimmer from the same line. Really makes a long, tedious job much faster and more manageable. Now that I have the battery, I'd like to try the chainsaw.


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## maple1 (Jun 14, 2018)

Milwaukee has a ton of tools for their M18 batteries, but I wish they would come out with a few more. Would like to try their trimmer, but haven't seen one in stores here yet. I might have just not been in the right store. A saw that takes two batteries would be interesting. If priced sensibly. Prices for their trimmer I've seen online are up there. Already have the batteries.


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## mtcox1791 (Jun 14, 2018)

jetsam said:


> Consider trying a bow saw. They use a crosscut blade, but are much smaller than a crosscut saw. You can get a decent one for under $20.
> 
> I have two chainsaws, and I still use my bow saw for small stuff sometimes.
> 
> View attachment 201706




+1 on the Bow saw.  If I am pruning a single small branch, 3 inches or less from a live tree, I usually go for my bow saw.  It is cheap, fast (takes me a while to put my protective equipment on, and cooler (the PPE is hot in the summer).  These are usually the tree limbs that sag with leaves that I didn't cut with my chainsaw in the winter.


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## Seasoned Oak (Jun 19, 2018)

First session on Ryobi Cordless electric chainsaw. Not knowing what to expect i took 3 batteries along. 2  2AH and one 4 AH . I didnt get past the first 2 AH battery. Still 1 bar of charge left after about 30 minutes of intermittent sawing. Tree was about 6in dia.Oak and dry and hard.  Saw cuts as well as my small gas saw did.


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## Cast Iron (Jun 19, 2018)

MInority opinion: if you have to ask online whether or not to get a firearm, or chainsaw, or any similar potentially killing tool......don't get it.
Gas or battery, a chainsaw needs you to do due dilgence* first. * It ain't here, it 's not on YouTube.


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## rudysmallfry (Jun 19, 2018)

OP, you are me a few years ago. Just need to get through the smaller stuff, but a healthy respect for using a chainsaw. I got a Stihl MS-180. It's an EZ start, so no yanking on the cord a dozen times to get it going. The bar is very narrow in the kickback area, so there's very little chance of hitting that sweet spot. When I first started using it, I just made sure to stand well off to the side of what I was cutting, that way if I did hit the bad spot, it would not get me in the head. It's been 3 years and quite a bit of bucking to this point (on stuff bigger than the saw was rated for) and I've had zero issues using it. If you do get a gas saw, spend the extra money on the ethanol free gas.

If you need to get your confidence up before your first use, watch videos of idiots using their saws recklessly. You'll soon realize, if people that dumb can use them without dying, you'll do fine using some common sense.


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## Cast Iron (Jun 21, 2018)

As our training instructor sergeant told us before the final test: " 'common sense' ain't so common" .
Ditch the videos. Get some real training with professionals; found at forestry schools, pro training schools, "Game of Logging" programs.



rudysmallfry said:


> .
> If you need to get your confidence up before your first use, watch videos of idiots using their saws recklessly. You'll soon realize, if people that dumb can use them without dying, you'll do fine using some *common sense*.


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## bholler (Jun 21, 2018)

Cast Iron said:


> As our training instructor sergeant told us before the final test: " 'common sense' ain't so common" .
> Ditch the videos. Get some real training with professionals; found at forestry schools, pro training schools, "Game of Logging" programs.


Professional training would be great.  But it just isnt available in many areas.  There is absolutly nothing like that offered here.


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## Seasoned Oak (Jun 21, 2018)

You would have to try hard to get injured with a battery operated chainsaw,but anything is possible!


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## Cast Iron (Jun 22, 2018)

Seasoned Oak said:


> *You would have to try hard to get injured with a battery operated chainsaw,but anything is possible*!



NO. Not true. 
A chainsaw no matter how powered can kill without proper PPE AND training and experience..
Chains love flesh.
In fact a non gas saw may not stop because of its torque when hitting the Kevlar threads the same way a gas saw will.


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## bholler (Jun 22, 2018)

Cast Iron said:


> NO. Not true.
> A chainsaw no matter how powered can kill without proper PPE AND training and experience..
> Chains love flesh.
> In fact a non gas saw may not stop because of its torque when hitting the Kevlar threads the same way a gas saw will.


I agree completly electric saws can be just as dangerous.  The only reason they are any safer is that they have chaon brakes so when you let off the trigger the chain stops right away without the run down of a gas saw.  Which is when many people get cut.  I know that was the only time i have hit my chaps with a movong chain.  Nothing happened but still a stupid mistake


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## Jan Pijpelink (Jun 22, 2018)

Any tool that moves at high RPM's like saws, grinders, mowers, etc. can and will hurt you if not carefully handled.


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## Seasoned Oak (Jun 22, 2018)

Jan Pijpelink said:


> Any tool that moves at high RPM's like saws, grinders, mowers, etc. can and will hurt you if not carefully handled.


Thats just it the electric chainsaw runs at a low rpm, much lower than any gas powered saw i ever had. Still cuts good. You need to engage two buttons simultaneously to run it plus it has a kick back guard. I cant imagine a scenario where you could get hurt.


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## bholler (Jun 22, 2018)

Seasoned Oak said:


> Thats just it the electric chainsaw runs at a low rpm, much lower than any gas powered saw i ever had. Still cuts good. You need to engage two buttons simultaneously to run it plus it has a kick back guard. I cant imagine a scenario where you could get hurt.


You would get hurt exactly the same way you would with a gas powered saw.  If a part of your body comes on contact with the chain while it is moving it will cut you.  It doesnt matter if the power comes from gas or electricity.  And if the rpm is high enough to cut wood it is certainly high enough to cut flesh and bone


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## Cast Iron (Jun 22, 2018)

Seasoned Oak said:


> Thats just it the electric chainsaw runs at a low rpm, much lower than any gas powered saw i ever had. Still cuts good. You need to engage two buttons simultaneously to run it plus it has a kick back guard. I cant imagine a scenario where you could get hurt.



Not the RPM that can bleed you, it is the lack of chain shut down due to the Kevlar threads in the chaps ( if you are wearing them of course ) that will stop a gas saw near immediately. Battery or electric CAN keep running; the threads WILL not clog the chain. 
In training we are shown and told that if the chaps are nicked or oil, fuel mix, or sap soaked,  replace them. The threads are damaged and will not stop the chain. Most of us HAD to get new chaps to pass the course. 
It has nothing to do with kick back.
Just for TMI, I use the electric for cutting roots or close to the ground stumps.


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## Birdbrain (Jul 11, 2018)

Fascinating, informational conversation.  Having the back injury slow me down last fall was for the best.  Getting through first winter with hubby gone, was good to see what I would really be facing.  I am finding the hand tools very enjoyable to be outside putting around, quiet and I find I accomplish quite a bit.  As my yard is surrounded by trees and bushes that need a lot of pruning.   Got a 7- ton boss electric splitter that my grandsons love to operate for me.  Really pleased with that.  Out performs expectations!   

I still think of chain saws, and see from reading here, reality is experience and the best route for me would be classes with seasoned teachers.  That would either give me further desire or contentment as things are.  Love being out doors any time of year, Makes everything better!


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## Seasoned Oak (Jul 11, 2018)

If you are still afraid of chain saws try a reciprocating battery operated saw. You wont get the production or speed of a  chain saw but it can do the job. You can buy limbing wood blades which are about 10" long and take down a medium sized tree. They are quite tame and not heavy.  It certainly beats sawing with a hand saw.


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## jatoxico (Jan 29, 2019)

I say I smell a plant.


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## maple1 (Jan 29, 2019)

jatoxico said:


> I say I smell a plant.



Yes I think you do.

With a whiff of canned lunch meat.


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## jetsam (Jan 29, 2019)

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[Edit: This post was making fun of a previous necromantic spam post, which was subsequently removed, leaving the above as a non sequitor.  A zombie post causing a ghost post, if you will. ]


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## Stercomancy (Jan 31, 2019)

Cast Iron said:


> NO. Not true.
> A chainsaw no matter how powered can kill without proper PPE AND training and experience..
> Chains love flesh.
> In fact a non gas saw may not stop because of its torque when hitting the Kevlar threads the same way a gas saw will.


Well said!


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## kevin j (Feb 3, 2019)

The issue with electric saws not being stopped so easily with kevlar chaps is that gas engines only have maybe 10-15% torque rise, a very slight increase from rated power to stalled. So it doesn’t take so much to stall them out.
  Electric motors have 150-300% torque rise to stall, depending on the design. They they have a lot more reserve to pull them through overloads (good for air compressors, bad for chaps).
   That is also the origin of the old rule of thumb (which is wrong) of “2 gas hp = 1 electric hp”.
  Part of that is gas engines run at 3600 rpm and electrics at 1800, but that’s another topic. Mainly it is torque rise on overload.

I’d say go for it. Partly to cut wood, and partly to stretch your comfort zone and learn you can handle SO much more than you ever thought to overcome.

Start with the bow or silky folding saw. You will use them forever even after getting a chain saw.  Learn, research, and when you are ready (not necessarily ‘comfortable’) try the battery chainsaw. Maybe gas someday, maybe not. Be safe, but stretch the comfort zone.

Kcj


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## MTY (Feb 3, 2019)

It does not sound like you are going into the deep woods with this thing.  If you have power near by, get an electric reciprocating saw.  With an aggressive blade it will go through small stuff like do do through a goose, and be safer than either an electric, battery or gas powered saw.  Probably cheaper too. 

Laugh if you will, but I have been using one for decades on more stuff than you can shake a stick at.  Construction, demolition, tree trimming, yard work, metal work, etc..


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Feb 3, 2019)

MTY said:


> It does not sound like you are going into the deep woods with this thing.  If you have power near by, get an electric reciprocating saw.  With an aggressive blade it will go through small stuff like do do through a goose, and be safer than either an electric, battery or gas powered saw.  Probably cheaper too.
> 
> Laugh if you will, but I have been using one for decades on more stuff than you can shake a stick at.  Construction, demolition, tree trimming, yard work, metal work, etc..


I think this is a great idea.  So good, in fact, I tried it myself.  Maybe I got the wrong blades (Vermont brand, looked like bow saw blades), but it was painfully slow. 

What blades do you recommend on this setup?  Maybe I'll try it again with different blades.


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## johneh (Feb 3, 2019)

ED 3000 said:


> What blades do you recommend on this setup? Maybe I'll try it again with different blades.


I use an aggressive Demolition blade for fast cutting rough work 
It will also cut any nails, screws or wire in a branch


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## MTY (Feb 3, 2019)

What he said.


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