# Heat N Glo 6000TRLP Newbie Needs Help!



## CDLehner (Dec 14, 2013)

Hello Hearth.com forum! First, I hope I am posting in the right section. I followed an old link on the HnG 6000 here, so...

I'm having some trouble with _my_ 6000TRLP...and I have no idea what I'm doing! Here's the situation...

Every year, we let the propane run-out on our tank. As such, the gas company usually comes in and checks the lines, lights the pilot, etc...and all is good to go. We just had this done, and some "unusual" things happened.

One...they told me I actually had 10% of my tank left; and wondered why the pilot had gone out. Two...they had some trouble getting the pilot lit, though they eventually did.

Three, now...the remote doesn't ignite the fireplace. I replaced the batteries in the remote, and I can hear the receiver (or whatever it is) _clicking_; like it's trying to start...but no dice.

Did I mention I know NOTHING about the fireplace, lol. The gas guy, did show me how to start it up "manually"...and that works; though I'm not sure about setting the thermostat, or starting the fan...because I've always just done that from the remote.

If I truly need service...I'm happy to call a guy out. I just wanted to make sure, this wasn't something silly...and easily fixed; before going to that trouble and expense. Any help, will be greatly appreciated. TIA

CD


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## DAKSY (Dec 14, 2013)

What remote are you using? Did you replace ALL the batteries? There are some in the sending unit & some in the receiver...Did you check them with a multi-tester before you installed them?


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## CDLehner (Dec 14, 2013)

DAKSY said:


> What remote are you using? Did you replace ALL the batteries? There are some in the sending unit & some in the receiver...Did you check them with a multi-tester before you installed them?



Well...that's what I was hoping; that it was as simple, as batteries in the receiver as well. But when I checked it...it actually plugs in. Here are some pics. Is it possible, the receiver still has batteries that need to be changed?


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## DAKSY (Dec 14, 2013)

No batteries in the receiver. Where is the audible "click" coming from? Is it the gas valve or the receiver?


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## CDLehner (Dec 14, 2013)

DAKSY said:


> No batteries in the receiver. Where is the audible "click" coming from? Is it the gas valve or the receiver?



Damn! I'll try to identify it. Thanks

EDIT- "Click" is definitely coming from the receiver.


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## DAKSY (Dec 14, 2013)

Are the connections to the valve good? If they are, the receiver may be on it's way out. Looks to be about 5 years old...


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## CDLehner (Dec 14, 2013)

DAKSY said:


> Are the connections to the valve good? If they are, the receiver may be on it's way out. Looks to be about 5 years old...



Daksy, this is where you start to lose me (doesn't take much). I can only assume, these are the connections to the valve; as it's all that's coming off the receiver.





They appear to be "good"; to the extent they're so tightly connected, when I tried to separate them...I could tell I couldn't have without some effort (so at that point I let them be). Now...where they head from there...





Again...beyond my capabilities. As for the receiver...I can only assume it's original equipment. House is 10 years old now, so my guess would be it's close to that; if not every day of it. Is it likely time for a new one?

I don't mind going manual, until I can make that happen. As I said earlier...I know how to ignite "manually"; but I can't seem to get the fan going. The only way I've ever run it, is by the thermostat on the remote. If anyone can school me, on how to control this stuff underneath; I'd be much obliged.


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## DAKSY (Dec 14, 2013)

If they're that tight, the connection is probably good. The receiver may be on it's way out, like I said earlier...As far as the blower goes, sometimes the thermo disk is by-passed when there is a remote. Look under the floor of the firebox, to the right of the gas valve & see if there is a wing nut on a stud holding a bracket to the bottom side of the floor... It should be a metal U-shaped bracket with a couple male spade connectors. Maybe 3" long x 1.5" wide...Not talking about the silvery bottom where that red LP sticker is, but maybe right above where I can see the remote receiver in the bottom pic...If it's there, it should be wired in between the blower rheostat & the junction box on the right side wall...If I'm talking above your level of capabilities, you might be better off calling in a tech...


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## xtrordinair (Dec 14, 2013)

The pigtail that the remote reciever plugs into the brown and red wires unplug them there and go straight to the top and bottom terminals on the valve .This will tell you if the reciever is good or not.That pigtail on the back of the switch above the valve is a common fail point.


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## CDLehner (Dec 15, 2013)

xtrordinair said:


> The pigtail that the remote reciever plugs into the brown and red wires unplug them there and go straight to the top and bottom terminals on the valve .This will tell you if the reciever is good or not.That pigtail on the back of the switch above the valve is a common fail point.



Guys, first of all...thanks for the help so far. I know it takes some extra time and effort, with a guy who knows nothing about this stuff; and it's appreciated.

Daksy...last night, with the fireplace lit "remotely", the fan did eventually turn on. So it appears I'm OK there.

Xtordinair, let me see if I understand you correctly: you're saying, find where the pigtail goes up to the valve; and instead of plugging the receiver into that connecting pigtail...pull that off the valve, and just connect the receiver right to the valve? If so...do I have any electrical or current issues to be concerned with? Remember...fish out of water here; don't wanna get burned, electrocuted...or blow something up, lol.

Thanks again!


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## xtrordinair (Dec 15, 2013)

yes unplug the red wires from the receiver that hook to the brown and red wires that disappear behind the gas valve.Take the red wires you just unhooked and connect them straight to the topo and bottom terminals on the valve.There is only low voltage going to the valve through those wires you will NOT be shocked or blow anything up.


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## CDLehner (Dec 15, 2013)

xtrordinair said:


> yes unplug the red wires from the receiver that hook to the brown and red wires that disappear behind the gas valve.Take the red wires you just unhooked and connect them straight to the topo and bottom terminals on the valve.There is only low voltage going to the valve through those wires you will NOT be shocked or blow anything up.



Xtrordinair, thanks. I gave it a shot, but I don't think that is happening. As you can see from this pic...that pigtail is connected, wayyy inside that assembly. My hands are as small and slender as they come...and even I can't get in there. Even if I could get to the leads...I'd be trying to attach the ones from the receiver "blind". Not sure how _anyone_ could do it really...unless there's a way, to pull that assembly out. Thanks


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## xtrordinair (Dec 15, 2013)

the terminals are right on the front of the valve.


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## xtrordinair (Dec 15, 2013)

where the two black wires are connected


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## CDLehner (Dec 15, 2013)

^^^ OK, sorry; I just assumed I was plugging right into where the red/brown pigtail connected.

OK...there are 2 red wires off the receiver; so I can't really tell what goes where, except what was plugged into red and what was plugged into brown, off the pigtail. Which wire should go where, on the valve? They are marked TH (top) and the other TH/TP (bottom). Thanks


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## xtrordinair (Dec 15, 2013)

i doesnt matter either way will work


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## CDLehner (Dec 15, 2013)

Wow; I haven't gotten very lucky with this. That's not going to work Xtrordinair. It turns out...the wires off the receiver are one male, one female; whereas off the front of the valve there...are both male. Drats!


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## xtrordinair (Dec 15, 2013)

if you got  a paper clip or a piece of wire anything will work to test it.


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## CDLehner (Dec 15, 2013)

xtrordinair said:


> if you got  a paper clip or a piece of wire anything will work to test it.



Can you elaborate?

Could I just go to HD or Lowes, and get a new pigtail...that takes the male/female leads on the receiver, and "converts" them to female/female for the valve?


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## xtrordinair (Dec 15, 2013)

sure but all were tryin to do is see if its the pigtail thats the problem.you can also just cut the ends off and strip the wires back a little and just touch them on the valve terminals while someone trys to turn the flame on with the remote


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## CDLehner (Dec 15, 2013)

So what's this idea with the paper-clip? Thanks


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## xtrordinair (Dec 15, 2013)

the male terminal that you cant just plug right into the valve ,you can take anything metal like a paper clip or a piece of bare wire whatever and touch the male terminal with one end and touch the valve terminal with the other end .Just something to make a connection with.Its not meant to be permanent .


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## CDLehner (Dec 15, 2013)

OK Xtrordinair, let me tell you what I did. I took the female lead of the receiver, and hooked it up to the 'TH' lead on the valve; and I was able to take the male lead of the receiver, and maintain contact with the 'TH/TP' lead on the valve. While doing that...I tried to use the remote, to start the fireplace and it didn't work.

What do you think; all signs point to a bad receiver?


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## xtrordinair (Dec 15, 2013)

yeah maybe so .try one more thing before you condemn the receiver.unplug the receiver let it sit for a minute or two .While your waiting take one battery out of the back of the remote.Then plug back in the receiver, take the battery and put it back in the remote. NOTE : when you put the battery back in flip the remote back over quickly and hit the flame on button.This will relearn the remote to receiver signal.If this doesnt fix it its junk.


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## CDLehner (Dec 15, 2013)

^^^ Yeah, I'm glad we tried this; because that was one of the things I thought about early on. Did the remote and receiver lose connection, when the batteries went dead on the remote. But then again...would the receiver be "clicking", when I tried to turn the remote on if they weren't linked?

In any case...I did as you said xtrordinair; I unplugged the receiver, removed a battery from the remote...plugged the receiver in, replaced the battery and turned the remote on. Still get the "clicking"...but holding the leads straight to the valve, still doesn't start.

I figure at this point, I'll pick this up http://www.skytechfireplaceremotes....tech-smart-stat-ii-iii-receiver-box-only.html (can't believe it's $117!), and if I plug n play, and it works...there's my answer. If it doesn't...back to the drawing board; and I might return the new receiver (if it turns out the old wasn't the problem after all).

Thanks for the help; and I'll update the thread, once I have the new receiver.


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## xtrordinair (Dec 15, 2013)

good luck ,if it were me i would buy the skytech 3002 remote .I install these all the time .They dont rely on house current its receiver runs on 4 double a batteries so if there is a power outage the remote still works.to me thats when the tstat feature is needed  the most.Thats why i dont recommend the 110 volt models to homeowners if the powers out yes you can still turn on the F.P. with the factory provided switch but its either on or off.


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