# Jotul GF 600 firelight direct vent installed...BUT



## DavePa (Nov 9, 2014)

Finally finished the instal using a horizontal termination. 

converted from Propane back to NG...Pilot light lit...

But can not  get the main burner to fully light.  Just a little splash of flame from the front tube.

Now what?


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## DavePa (Nov 9, 2014)

Is it possible to have incorrectly installed the parts for the NG conversion?


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## Ironhorse74 (Nov 9, 2014)

Spider Web in the burner tube?


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## DavePa (Nov 9, 2014)

Reading .679 milivolts at the board


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## DavePa (Nov 9, 2014)

Checked all tubes and lines for blockage... none found
indications are leaning to defective gas valve


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## Ironhorse74 (Nov 9, 2014)

Check input gas pressure and outlet gas pressure. I have never in 35 years seen a valve fail like that.


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## DavePa (Nov 9, 2014)

Had no way to check pressures this evening.  Did however try to adjust pressures , counting turns made to bring it back to settings, with no changes.


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## Ironhorse74 (Nov 9, 2014)

It could be a bad regulator, but without a manometer we are just guessing.


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## DavePa (Nov 9, 2014)

Ironhorse74 said:


> It could be a bad regulator, but without a manometer we are just guessing.


T'ed off the gas line to my Natural Gas furnace


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## DavePa (Nov 9, 2014)

Strong flame at pilot light..just not beyond


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## Ironhorse74 (Nov 9, 2014)

Bad regulator on the valve. The part that turns the flame up and down. You did change it, when you converted from LP to NG?


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## DavePa (Nov 9, 2014)

When checking voltage at block I have 679 ML when thermopile is disconnected,  260 MV when connected.  Is it eating the voltage trying to activate the valve?


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## Ironhorse74 (Nov 9, 2014)

That sounds normal. Did you change the regulator on the valve?


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## DavePa (Nov 9, 2014)

Ironhorse74 said:


> Bad regulator on the valve. The part that turns the flame up and down. You did change it, when you converted from LP to NG?


Yes i did change it,  It was changed to propane by previous owner, who never fired the stove.  I then mad the conversion back to NG


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## Ironhorse74 (Nov 9, 2014)

With a new regulator? Is the valve a 820 Nova SIT?


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## DavePa (Nov 9, 2014)

Ironhorse74 said:


> That sounds normal. Did you change the regulator on the valve?


Yes Regulator, Pilot orifice, burner orifice, gasket, spring,


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## Ironhorse74 (Nov 9, 2014)

I think your problem is in the regulator.


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## DavePa (Nov 9, 2014)

Ironhorse74 said:


> With a new regulator? Is the valve a 820 Nova SIT?



Im not sure
 the only markings i can see on the bottom of the valve body is 20BI, maybe


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## DavePa (Nov 9, 2014)

Ironhorse74 said:


> I think your problem is in the regulator.



Can I just purchase the regulator
I don't see that in the parts list


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## Ironhorse74 (Nov 9, 2014)

Does it look like this? http://woodheatstoves.com/images/P1040333.jpg


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## DavePa (Nov 9, 2014)

Ironhorse74 said:


> Does it look like this? http://woodheatstoves.com/images/P1040333.jpg


Yes
the one removed looks the same  my code number is 0907202


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## Ironhorse74 (Nov 9, 2014)

All right it is an 820 NOVA SIT.  I can't remember how the NG regulator installs. There is a rubber diaphragm and a spring.  We're there directions?


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## DavePa (Nov 9, 2014)

Ironhorse74 said:


> All right it is an 820 NOVA SIT.  I can't remember how the NG regulator installs. There is a rubber diaphragm and a spring.  We're there directions?




There are, but it shows going from NG
Says nothing about going to NG   Just a photo removing


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## DAKSY (Nov 10, 2014)

If you can hear the gas valve "CLICK" when you turn the unit on, the valve is trying to supply gas to the burner.
Pull the burner, remove the burner orifice with a 1/2" (or13mm) box wrench or socket & see if the tube behind the
orifice is blocked by a spider's nest... It'll look like a white diaphragm across the ID of the gas line. 
This happens a LOT. A Q-Tip or a pipe cleaner will clear the nest. Reassemble & give it another try.


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## DavePa (Nov 10, 2014)

DAKSY said:


> If you can hear the gas valve "CLICK" when you turn the unit on, the valve is trying to supply gas to the burner.
> Pull the burner, remove the burner orifice with a 1/2" (or13mm) box wrench or socket & see if the tube behind the
> orifice is blocked by a spider's nest... It'll look like a white diaphragm across the ID of the gas line.
> This happens a LOT. A Q-Tip or a pipe cleaner will clear the nest. Reassemble & give it another try.




Did all the above, no blockage found.
Do NOT hear the click when trying to fire up... Do get a click after pilot light has been shut down.


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## DAKSY (Nov 10, 2014)

Hmm... No click means the gas valve is not opening to allow gas flow. Your millivolt drop
indicates that the voltage is getting to the magnets. They're just not opening.
Have you tried "rapping" on the side of the gas valve with a plastic screwdriver handle?
The magnets may be stuck together after years of non-use. a good rap or two might
free them up. Do this with the switch in the ON position & don't be overly aggressive...


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## DavePa (Nov 10, 2014)

DAKSY said:


> Hmm... No click means the gas valve is not opening to allow gas flow. Your millivolt drop
> indicates that the voltage is getting to the magnets. They're just not opening.
> Have you tried "rapping" on the side of the gas valve with a plastic screwdriver handle?
> The magnets may be stuck together after years of non-use. a good rap or two might
> free them up. Do this with the switch in the ON position & don't be overly aggressive...




Pilot lit...turned to on position.
switch to ON position...no click..however small flicker of flame at front of burner...tap with handle , no change

Toggle switch between off / on  same results.  no change in flame when turning from lo to high

Is it possible to have not installed the regulator tower improperly?    No directions in booklet to convert back to NG just a photo for going Propane.

I might be over thinking


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## DavePa (Nov 10, 2014)

DavePa said:


> View attachment 143806
> View attachment 143807
> View attachment 143806
> 
> ...




The small cone shown I figure 'C'
I used the white plastic one included there was also a copper colored one as well in which I didn't use


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## DAKSY (Nov 10, 2014)

Did you remove EVERYTHING in the face of the valve when you repalced the regulator head?


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## DavePa (Nov 10, 2014)

DAKSY said:


> Did you remove EVERYTHING in the face of the valve when you repalced the regulator head?


Yes   everything removed


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## DavePa (Nov 10, 2014)

Anyone know of Ohm test that can be done to check the operation of a SIT valve..820 Nova gas valve?


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## DAKSY (Nov 10, 2014)

I believe you jump the middle terminal to the TH terminal. 3 Ohms max.


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## DavePa (Nov 10, 2014)

DAKSY said:


> I believe you jump the middle terminal to the TH terminal. 3 Ohms max.


Using my old needle meter...Showing just over 3 Ohms


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## DavePa (Nov 10, 2014)

DavePa said:


> Using my old needle meter...Showing just over 3 Ohms



we now have a flame!

Removed and reapplied the regulator 

Will once again check for leaks and make adjustments

Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

I'll post back once all is put back together

Regards  Dave


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## Heatsource (Nov 10, 2014)

you shouldn't be dealing with the spring and cap, not field serviceable parts.
you need a fully encapsulated regulator any time you do a change.


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## Ironhorse74 (Nov 10, 2014)

Heat source do you have a SIT part number for a fully encapsulated natural gas regulator?  I have never seen one.


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## Ironhorse74 (Nov 10, 2014)

Daksy the 3 ohm reading is the specification from SIT. I once took a multimeter and checked a full box of new replacement valves. Very few of them were within specifications.  Even tried different multimeters with the same result.


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## BrotherBart (Nov 10, 2014)

If it doesn't work send me a PM. I have a new SIT factory set up for gas for the tube burner, before the flat plate "Jotul burner", GF600 DV on a shelf in the garage. Bought a trailer load of Jotul gas stoves years ago and when we un-crated the GF600 the front casting was busted in shipping. Stripped it down and shelved the parts and scrapped the castings.

That must be an early 2000's stove.


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## DavePa (Nov 10, 2014)

Heatsource said:


> you shouldn't be dealing with the spring and cap, not field serviceable parts.
> you need a fully encapsulated regulator any time you do a change.



Interesting,  that would have been a much easier change over.  That parts, all being separate, where in the change over bag.  Of course, they were factory installed and the previous owner converted to LP.


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## DavePa (Nov 10, 2014)

BrotherBart said:


> If it doesn't work send me a PM. I have a new SIT factory set up for gas for the tube burner, before the flat plate "Jotul burner", GF600 DV on a shelf in the garage. Bought a trailer load of Jotul gas stoves years ago and when we un-crated the GF600 the front casting was busted in shipping. Stripped it down and shelved the parts and scrapped the castings.
> 
> That must be an early 2000's stove.





BrotherBart said:


> If it doesn't work send me a PM. I have a new SIT factory set up for gas for the tube burner, before the flat plate "Jotul burner", GF600 DV on a shelf in the garage. Bought a trailer load of Jotul gas stoves years ago and when we un-crated the GF600 the front casting was busted in shipping. Stripped it down and shelved the parts and scrapped the castings.
> 
> That must be an early 2000's stove.



Yes a 2004 model I believe

Sent you a PM


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