# Do i need a new engine for my splitter, huskee 22 ton?



## orenn89 (Apr 28, 2015)

So i screwed up big time.  I just picked up a huskee 22 ton splitter on saturday for 650.  Looked to be in amazing shape, guy kept it in his garage and didn't use it much at all.  We started it up and it ran great so i took it home.  Well i got it home and wanted to play with my new toy, so i started it up (stupid i know without checking it over) then after about running for 30 sec, engine starting making a wierd noise, like a clacking noise not sure how to describe it, then i turned it off and now the engine is siezed.  I checked oil level and it was almost empty, i cant believe i didn't check the oil level.  
So after beating myself up, im wondering if during transporation bouncing around the oil may have drained? or did the guy just not have any oil in it for some reason?  Do i need to get a new engine?  If so, is it just a standard 6.5 vertical shaft?  What type of specs do i need to be sure to get to make sure it fits and works right?


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## duramaxman05 (Apr 28, 2015)

I doubt the oil disappeared while hauling or towing. I would pull the spark plug and put some tranny fluid in the sparkplug hole. I would raise the splitter  up so that the cylinder would be verticle (if its a verticle engine), that way the oil goes all around the piston.  I would put plent in it too. You are not gonna hurt any more. Let it sit for a couple day and then try it. If you are needing and engine, i know of a couple sites that has excellent deals on them.


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## orenn89 (Apr 28, 2015)

Yeah engine is vertical, i was going to pull it off tonight and put penetrating oil in it to see what happens, even if it frees up, would there be any long term damage?


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## xman23 (Apr 28, 2015)

That's a shame. My dad did the same thing with a new mower. The dip stick had some oil on it from factory testing. The they drain everything for shipping. So a new engine and it's like new.


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## orenn89 (Apr 28, 2015)

What are the requirements of a replacement?  I searched the model that is on it now and it looks discontinued.


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## BrotherBart (Apr 28, 2015)

If the shaft diameter and length and the bolt pattern match up the chonda 5.5hp vertical shaft engine at Harbor Freight is on sale for $120. With a 20% coupon it would be 90 bucks. I have one of their horizontal shaft ones on my splitter and have run the crap out of it for years.

The shaft size and bolt pattern are in the manual here.

http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/69000-69999/69731.pdf


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## orenn89 (Apr 28, 2015)

Would i notice the loss in performance of going from a 6.5hp to a 5.5 hp engine?


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## claydogg84 (Apr 28, 2015)

Most small engines can come back after being locked up. Put oil in it and get it freed up, I bet it will run fine.


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## BrotherBart (Apr 28, 2015)

orenn89 said:


> Would i notice the loss in performance of going from a 6.5hp to a 5.5 hp engine?



My 22 ton had a five horse engine originally. Only split a few hundred cord with it before the engine started irritating me. The one I replaced it with is 6.5hp and I haven't noticed any difference in operation at all.


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## orenn89 (Apr 28, 2015)

Well i guess i'll see if i can get her freed up, if not looks like a replacement briggs is 170 vs the harbor freight for 90, I think im leaning towards the harbor freight.


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## orenn89 (Apr 28, 2015)

UPDATE:  so i got it kinda freed up.  It soaked with PB blaster in the cylinder for about an hour then i took a pipe wrench to the shaft to see if it was loose.  Initally it moved hard, and then felt normal.  However it is only free for about a turn then it jams up again and i need the pipe wrench to turn it.  Spark plug is removed and the piston is going up and down.  What is going on here?  Why would there be a particular point in the cycle where it jams up?


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## DodgyNomad (Apr 28, 2015)

orenn89 said:


> UPDATE:  so i got it kinda freed up.  It soaked with PB blaster in the cylinder for about an hour then i took a pipe wrench to the shaft to see if it was loose.  Initally it moved hard, and then felt normal.  However it is only free for about a turn then it jams up again and i need the pipe wrench to turn it.  Spark plug is removed and the piston is going up and down.  What is going on here?  Why would there be a particular point in the cycle where it jams up?




No way to know for sure what's causing the friction......but.....

Guy that sold it should have (or did) know it was using oil, but it goes without saying you needed to check it also. Unless you tipped it over, it wouldn't have leaked oil from transport.  It's a shame, but nothing to do now but tear it down for inspection, and see if it can be freshened up/repaired, or just swap the motor out.  Does yours have the briggs 6.5?  

Depending on your comfort/skill level, I'd tear it down and see if you can just swap some parts.  Shame, feel for ya.


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## BrotherBart (Apr 28, 2015)

Replace it and split some wood. Parts will cost more than the new engine.

BB - Who discovered that there actually is a $90 carburetor for a five horse Briggs.


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## orenn89 (Apr 28, 2015)

DodgyNomad said:


> No way to know for sure what's causing the friction......but.....
> 
> Guy that sold it should have (or did) know it was using oil, but it goes without saying you needed to check it also. Unless you tipped it over, it wouldn't have leaked oil from transport.  It's a shame, but nothing to do now but tear it down for inspection, and see if it can be freshened up/repaired, or just swap the motor out.  Does yours have the briggs 6.5?
> 
> Depending on your comfort/skill level, I'd tear it down and see if you can just swap some parts.  Shame, feel for ya.



Ill tear it down after work tomorrow.  And yes its the 6.5 briggs.  Do you know of a good replacement?  I still cant believe i didnt check the oil....


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## dougand3 (Apr 28, 2015)

Could be part of the ring broke off or facture of piston skirt and is jammed between piston and cylinder wall - causing high resistance to part of the piston travel. Like BB says, parts may cost HF engine price. Get your Briggs model # from shroud near muffler - eg. 126T02-0675-B2 and check piston and ring price on fleabay.
I just lost a PP260. It gets ugly in there when engine ingests the choke plate screw. Amazing but cylinder looks great. Is it worth $18 piston kit and scrounging a proper choke rod? I dunno - I sell them for $70.


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## DodgyNomad (Apr 29, 2015)

Without verifying and off the top of my head, I think this is the briggs replacement.  I haven't verified, so check your shaft specs first.

http://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-126M02-1015-F1-32-Inch-Crankshaft/dp/B0076815DA

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200118974_200118974

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Briggs-Stratton-675-Series-Quantum-Gas-Engine-126M02-1015-F1/205158159

I'd get a briggs vs. a harbor freight engine if you can.  Break it in right and it will last a LONG time....


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## claydogg84 (Apr 29, 2015)

Bart said it - These small engines aren't worth repairing, as replacements can be had rather cheap. Did you try to start it? Is the "tough spot" too hard to get past with the pull cord?


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## cachunko (Apr 29, 2015)

Don't be afraid of a harbor freight engine.  I built a splitter a few years ago with a harbor freight engine.  It's been fantastic for me, and you surely can't beat the price.


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## CountryBoy19 (Apr 29, 2015)

It may not be worth repairing if new parts are required, but sometimes it's not as bad as it seems. Tear it down and take a look. Sometimes you can hone out light scoring marks in the cylinder and a cheap piston (with rings) can be had from salvage or even new, after-market for ~$20 sometimes. There is no way of knowing how bad it is until you look.


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## orenn89 (Apr 29, 2015)

So i tore it down.  Bottom half with crank and connecting rod looked in pretty good shape, cylinder wall is destroyed and i would assume piston is too, some very deep gouges that if i tried to remove, im certian i wouln't have any compression left.  Anyways about the replacement motor.  I did some searching and found a post on here about the engine and apparently it is a custom engine that i cant seem to find.  Problem is the shaft length is around 2.75 which is not a common size, any ideas?  Would you try to get the longer shaft and cut it down?
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/huskee-22-ton-log-splitter-review.88166/


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## DodgyNomad (Apr 29, 2015)

orenn89 said:


> So i tore it down.  Bottom half with crank and connecting rod looked in pretty good shape, cylinder wall is destroyed and i would assume piston is too, some very deep gouges that if i tried to remove, im certian i wouln't have any compression left.  Anyways about the replacement motor.  I did some searching and found a post on here about the engine and apparently it is a custom engine that i cant seem to find.  Problem is the shaft length is around 2.75 which is not a common size, any ideas?  Would you try to get the longer shaft and cut it down?
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/huskee-22-ton-log-splitter-review.88166/



Sorry to hear it.  The briggs listed in the links above have shafts under 3.16 in length, so less than 1/2 inch longer than your original.   I know I saw the exact replacement for mine a couple of years ago online, but haven't looked lately.  I'll see if I can find it again.  

I'm guessing the shaft has a keyway, and could be cut/ground down a touch if you had to, or you could get some washers and shim/raise the engine a little bit.    Just a thought.  

I've used and still have the Harbor Freight engines also.  They work pretty good, but are a bit louder with a fair amount more vibration and harmonics.  You have to look them over pretty good, and tighten them up from time to time, as well as swap out the fuel lines sooner, etc.. But they do work for the $.   Wouldn't be my first choice, if the rest of the splitter is as clean as you mentioned.


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## BrotherBart (Apr 29, 2015)

I had the same shaft length issue going from the horizontal Briggs to the HF. Just adjusted for it with the Lovejoy coupler and longer bolts to the pump.


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## orenn89 (Apr 30, 2015)

Thanks for the help guys, im going to pick up the HF engine tonight afterwork and some washer to raise the engine.  With any luck ill be splittin this weekend!


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## Fifelaker (Apr 30, 2015)

Make a plate to raise it, that way you will spread out the stress over the whole bottom of the engine instead of just the corners. I have also seen hockey pucks sandwiched in to help with vibration.


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## duramaxman05 (Apr 30, 2015)

You could always buy a horizontal engine too and it will work. They seem to last longer.


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## DodgyNomad (Apr 30, 2015)

If the HF shaft is too long, just grind the output shaft to the desired length.  Don't put too much side/end load on it when grinding, and toss a plastic bag over the motor to keep the debris out.  Be easier/more stable than creating shims, and might look nicer.  Just a thought. 

PM me on the break in procedure for that motor if you want.


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## orenn89 (May 1, 2015)

Got the harbor freight motor installed and seems to run pretty well.  Only issue with motor is it sometimes kicks back as you are pulling cord, would this go away as it breaks in?  Other than that just need to figure out a way to set the throttle setting and have it stay.


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## DodgyNomad (May 1, 2015)

orenn89 said:


> Got the harbor freight motor installed and seems to run pretty well.  Only issue with motor is it sometimes kicks back as you are pulling cord, would this go away as it breaks in?  Other than that just need to figure out a way to set the throttle setting and have it stay.



It won't go away.  Try slow pulling it for one cycle first, not enough to start it, then give it a normal hard pull.  That seems to work for some reason much of the time.


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## orenn89 (May 3, 2015)

One last question on the HF motor, can i adjust the screw to increase the travel of the throttle (see pic)?  There is a screw (with a spring on it) that the throttle lever bottoms out on and looks like it limits it to half thottle, if i turn it out i can get alot more revs out of the motor.  Is it ok to adjust this screw to get it to full throttle or is this something that is set by the factory that i shouldn't mess with?


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## BrotherBart (May 3, 2015)

The throttle is in that u-shaped slot next to the air cleaner. That screw controls the idle speed.


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## orenn89 (May 3, 2015)

BrotherBart said:


> The throttle is in that u-shaped slot next to the air cleaner. That screw controls the idle speed.


Dosent seem to be an idle control, rather a max throttle limit.  when you pull the throttle you cant get past 1/2 throttle with it in its current setting


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## Rut13 (May 5, 2015)

The stock predator (Harbor Freight Clone) motor is internally governed to 3600 rpm so not matter how far you adjust the spring on the throttle you wont get past that. Now if you take the governor out of the crank case you get it to about 5500 rpm before you get valve float  Great motors, I have one on a clone class racing kart thats pushing out about 13 HP, not bad for a $90 engine from HF.


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## BrotherBart (May 5, 2015)

3600 is what the hydro pump is designed for too. So you aren't doing the machine any favors by over speeding it.


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## orenn89 (May 11, 2015)

So i split around half a cord this weekend with the harbor freight motor, and i am having issues with it.  the motor seems to rev up and down alot when i go past mid throttle and sometimes even at low throttle.  I can see the governor bouncing like crazy.  I did some poking around and some people say it could be a gumed up carb or air filter, but the thing is new!  Others have mentioned to adjust the mixture but there is no instructions in the manual on how to do this.  Anyone with the same motor ever run into this issue and how did you fix it?


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## BrotherBart (May 11, 2015)

For a fixed application like a splitter, you set it at the speed you want it to run splitting and leave it forget that the thing has a throttle.


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## orenn89 (May 12, 2015)

BrotherBart said:


> For a fixed application like a splitter, you set it at the speed you want it to run splitting and leave it forget that the thing has a throttle.


But 90% of the time i cant throttle it to where i need to be or else the governor starts bouncing around and the engine is surging.


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## claydogg84 (May 12, 2015)

orenn89 said:


> But 90% of the time i cant throttle it to where i need to be or else the governor starts bouncing around and the engine is surging.



Take a picture of the available carb adjustments. A simple tune of the air/fuel mix should solve your problem.


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## DodgyNomad (May 12, 2015)

Sadly, this is the stuff that gives you headaches on these little HF engines.  If it was me, I'd take it back and spend the extra 50 and get the briggs I mentioned above if you can.  What's your time worth?


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## orenn89 (May 12, 2015)

Pics are below, only adjustment screw of any sorts i see on carb is a little black screw, is this what i want to adjust?  I also took the air filter off and found abit of black oil residue on in that seemed odd.  Anyways as dodgy said, if this is not resolved soon, im taking it back and shellin out a bit extra for a briggs.  I also noticed a puddle forming in my garage around the pump from hydrolic oil.  Man i wish i just bought a new splitter, just saw they are on sale now for 950. 

And just want to say it again, thanks for all your help guys.  This forum is a gold mine of information and i am amazed at how much the members know, makes the whole, jumping into heating with wood a bit less daunting.


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## claydogg84 (May 12, 2015)

Yes, adjust that one screw slightly and you should be able to make it run better. Bring it up to full throttle and turn it one way or the other, you will be able to tell if it's making it better, or worse.


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## Jags (May 13, 2015)

Yep - that is the adjustment.

My opinion - take that motor back.  There is no way a new motor should be making that mark on the air cleaner.  That is coming from blow back somehow.  More than likely a valve not seating or rings not set.  It is not normal.


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## lindnova (May 13, 2015)

I agree with Jags that it has blowby or is running way too rich.  Shouldn't do that new; something defective?  We're assuming the choke is wide open when it is running?


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## orenn89 (May 16, 2015)

Its going back, no choke on her.  Im going to order the briggs and return the harbor freight once the briggs comes in.  thanks for the help guys!


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## Highbeam (May 19, 2015)

My newish Huskee22 splitter with a briggs motor also has no choke.


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## BrotherBart (May 19, 2015)

Lawn mover with a Briggs that I bought two weeks ago has no choke.


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## Fifelaker (May 20, 2015)

My huskee with the B&S has no choke. When it dies it is going to get a Chonda clone from Harbor Freight.


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## HarmanManP43 (May 20, 2015)

Sure there is no choke?? Many small engines have auto chokes on them now. Look for a rod connecting the muffler to the carb.


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## Jags (May 20, 2015)

HarmanManP43 said:


> Sure there is no choke?? Many small engines have auto chokes on them now. Look for a rod connecting the muffler to the carb.


Many small engines have moved away from the use of any choke plate and have adopted the primer bulb for cold starts.  I believe it has something to do with the EPA regulations on emissions from small engines.  It is the same reason that many newer push mowers don't have an adjustable throttle.  They use larger HP engines but throttle them down to a specific rpm to meet emission requirements.


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## HarmanManP43 (May 20, 2015)

Jags said:


> Many small engines have moved away from the use of any choke plate and have adopted the primer bulb for cold starts.  I believe it has something to do with the EPA regulations on emissions from small engines.  It is the same reason that many newer push mowers don't have an adjustable throttle.  They use larger HP engines but throttle them down to a specific rpm to meet emission requirements.


 
Interesting. I have yet to see one. Will have to keep my eyes open.


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## Jags (May 20, 2015)

HarmanManP43 said:


> Interesting. I have yet to see one. Will have to keep my eyes open.


Next time you are at one of the box stores or hardware store take a look at some of the push mowers on the market. Governed RPM (no throttle) and push bulb primer (no choke).  I am not sure if it some sort of mandate or not, but it seems to be the way of the future.


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## slindo (May 20, 2015)

I would return it and try another Predator. I'd rather have a good Honda OHV clone than a flattie Briggs any day. We know from posts here and elsewhere that the Predator is decent engine, so there's got to be something wrong  with yours. And a motor you can return locally is a let easier to deal than one you have to ship back if there is a problem.   I might though send a buddy in to HF to buy the next one just in case  the next one is no better - some stores don't like people who return the same item over and over. But see how they act when you return this one.  HF usually is good about returns.


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## Oldman47 (May 20, 2015)

My one year old Honda powered mower has one of those automatic chokes. To start it you just grab the safety bar and hold it against the pusher handle to remove the engine brake then pull the recoil cord. It sometimes takes 2 pulls to get it running. If you let it run dry or use the fuel shutoff it sometimes takes more than 2 pulls. There is no manual choke and no throttle control on this mower.


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## Whitepine2 (May 20, 2015)

slindo said:


> I would return it and try another Predator. I'd rather have a good Honda OHV clone than a flattie Briggs any day. We know from posts here and elsewhere that the Predator is decent engine, so there's got to be something wrong  with yours. And a motor you can return locally is a let easier to deal than one you have to ship back if there is a problem.   I might though send a buddy in to HF to buy the next one just in case  the next one is no better - some stores don't like people who return the same item over and over. But see how they act when you return this one.  HF usually is good about returns.


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