# Husqvarna 445 / loose chain issue...?



## PSYS (Oct 21, 2013)

You guys have helped me with everything else thus far, so I figured I'd toss this question out there, as well.

I'm a total chainsaw newbie.  I've helped a friend down a couple of smaller trees a few years ago but it was nothing extravagant and I've basically made just one cut in my entire life.  No joke.  I picked up a Husqvarna 445 with an 18" bar a couple of weeks ago (manufacturer refurb on eBay) and used it extensively for the first time this past weekend.

My only issue was with the chain itself.  It seemed like it was becoming loose and drooping on the bar rather quickly.  I know this is an issue with new chains from what I've read, but it seemed extensive?

It may be user error in the way in which I'm cutting and/or it may be the fact that I just can't grasp the connection between the chain tension bolt and the nut holding the bar onto the case.  

1.)  For cutting, should I not be putting any pressure on the saw itself especially when cutting larger rounds?  I used some pressure on with the saw while cutting and I'm wondering if that's a factor?  Although, the chain still seemed to become rather loose even if I didn't operate the saw in that manner and even after just a couple of cuts.

2.)  For the mechanical part of it, the chain tension bolt/screw was tightened as much as I could and the same goes for the nut holding the bar onto the case.  Both of these were locked down ftight and the chain was STILL loose at which point after a couple of more cuts, it ultimately came off the bar entirely.  If neither the chain tenson bolt/screw nor the nut holding the bar onto the case could be tightened anymore... the only solution was for me to remove the cover entirely, pull the bar taut and then replace the cover.  This would last another couple dozen or so cuts before I had to repeat the process all over again.

I had to do this 4-5 times yesterday afternoon while chopping down the pile I got from a co-worker on Saturday.

I read the manual again and clearly, I'm missing something or is this all part of the process?


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## firefighterjake (Oct 21, 2013)

This may be a dumb question . . . but did you loosen the nuts that hold the bar on to the saw before tightening the chain with the adjuster? Usually these nuts need to be loosened, the chain adjuster can then be tightened or loosened as need be and then the nuts retightened.


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## ErikR (Oct 21, 2013)

Without seeing things and no pictures to go by... it's a guess. I have a 450, a very similar saw. I might have to adjust chain tension once in a while, but certainly not after just a dozen or so cuts.

I guess I'd start by making sure the saw is assembled correctly. Is the little nub of the adjusted fitting into place on the bar?. I'd bet that the hole in the bar is not meshing with the chain tensioner nub.
I can go clean up my 450 a little and take some pics if it would help.... Try to fit the bar onto the saw without the chain, make sure the nub of the adjusted is properly fitting into the hole in the bar...

Make sure the chain brake in not on by pulling the brake handle back towards the front handle bar. Remove the chain side cover. Do you see the nub that fits in the hole n the bar? Can you adjust it with a screwdriver? Is it broken? Does the nub move without turning the screw?

A couple of other things... are you lifting the nose of the bar when you tighten the side cover nut? When I adjust my chain, it usually just takes a tiny bit of a turn on the adjuster screw to make a big difference in chain tension.


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## ErikR (Oct 21, 2013)

firefighterjake said:


> This may be a dumb question . . . but did you loosen the nuts that hold the bar on to the saw before tightening the chain with the adjuster? Usually these nuts need to be loosened, the chain adjuster can then be tightened or loosened as need be and then the nuts retightened.



Good point! I forgot to mention that....


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## TreePointer (Oct 21, 2013)

In almost all cases, you never should tighten the chain all the way.  After tightening, you should be able to move the chain freely with your hand.  Also, on an 18" bar, you should be able to pull the chain away from the bar to reveal almost one entire drive link (you'll get a feel for this as you get more experience).  Of course, all of this should be done with the chain brake disengaged.

As firefighterjake mentioned, you need to adjust chain tension with the bar nuts loosened a bit.  After adjusting the chain tension, lift the tip of the bar as far as you can before tightening the bar nuts.


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## TreePointer (Oct 21, 2013)

How many drive links (DL) are in your chain?
How many DL are specified for your bar (look at the info stamped on the bar)?


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## PSYS (Oct 21, 2013)

Thanks for the replies, you guys!

OK.  I think my issue is what Jake referenced in his post.  I've been essentially tightening down BOTH the nut that holds the bar onto the saw AND the chain tensioner screw/bolt.  

Perhaps this is the part that simply comes with experience.  Do I hand tighten the nut that holds the bar on the saw and THEN tighten the chain tensioner screw/bolt?  I was failing to see the correlation between these two but now I'm noticing how they go hand in hand.  Sorry for the stupid questions!  I dropped my chain off with a buddy last night to run through his sharpener and when I get it back from him this weekend, I'll give it a go...


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## cygnus (Oct 21, 2013)

From what i know of this saw, With only one bar nut, this is a common problem for the 445. You really need to crank on that nut.


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## PSYS (Oct 21, 2013)

ErikR said:


> Without seeing things and no pictures to go by... it's a guess. I have a 450, a very similar saw. I might have to adjust chain tension once in a while, but certainly not after just a dozen or so cuts.
> 
> I guess I'd start by making sure the saw is assembled correctly. Is the little nub of the adjusted fitting into place on the bar?. I'd bet that the hole in the bar is not meshing with the chain tensioner nub.
> I can go clean up my 450 a little and take some pics if it would help.... Try to fit the bar onto the saw without the chain, make sure the nub of the adjusted is properly fitting into the hole in the bar...
> ...




Erik:

Thanks for taking the time to post these photos!   Yes, everything does line up perfectly and the nub you're describing does move without any issues.  Like I said in my previous reply, I'm gonna give it a shot again this weekend and I'll let you guys know how I do.


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## PSYS (Oct 21, 2013)

cygnus said:


> From what i know of this saw, With only one bar nut, this is a common problem for the 445. You really need to crank on that nut.


 
No kidding....?   ugh.   OK.  I guess it'll be something I need to pay attention to much more frequently...

Thanks for the reply!


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## MarkinNC (Oct 22, 2013)

There is a little plastic "keep" (think it is called) that fell off and I did not notice it.  The chain was loosening constantly.  I took it in to my local saw shot and they noticed it.  About $4 later I was out of there.


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## PSYS (Oct 22, 2013)

Where is this plastic "keep" part and what is its function?

I'm gonna check out my saw when I get home today.
Is it something that would be on my 445?


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## MarkinNC (Oct 22, 2013)

PSYS said:


> Where is this plastic "keep" part and what is its function?
> 
> I'm gonna check out my saw when I get home today.
> Is it something that would be on my 445?



It rides in the channel for the bar tensioner screw on the threads and keeps it from loosening up (as I recall).  Maybe one of the chain saw guys can elaborate.  Let me go look at it.


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## MarkinNC (Oct 22, 2013)

It is where the screwdriver is pointing to.


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## PSYS (Oct 23, 2013)

MarkinNC said:


> It is where the screwdriver is pointing to.


 
MARK:

Thanks for taking the time to post a photo of that part!
I'm going to check out my saw when I get home from work this evening and I will let you know.

If it's missing, it wasn't on there to begin with.  Not sure I completely understand even with it there what its functionality would be as far as keeping the chain on.
Is it keeping the chain tensioner screw from coming loose?

I'll check it out this evening and let you know.


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## MarkinNC (Oct 23, 2013)

PSYS said:


> MARK:
> 
> Is it keeping the chain tensioner screw from coming loose?


That is my understanding.  When that part fell out of my saw the chain kept loosening constantly. Your saw may not have that part.  That saw is from the early 90's I think.  But it happened to me so I thought it could happen to you.  No problem by the way!


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## ketoret (Jan 29, 2014)

hoo boy - glad to see this.  i've got a 435T - nice li'l saw, but as of recent the chain loosens after just a few cuts.  i have tightened that bolt down tight as it goes, and it makes no difference.  I hope this is not just a design flaw of the the one-bolt saws.  Scot, let me know if you're still having this porblem, and if/how you solved it.  Thanks.


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## ketoret (Jan 29, 2014)

ketoret said:


> hoo boy - glad to see this.  i've got a 435T - nice li'l saw, but as of recent the chain loosens after just a few cuts.  i have tightened that bolt down tight as it goes, and it makes no difference.  I hope this is not just a design flaw of the the one-bolt saws.  Scot, let me know if you're still having this porblem, and if/how you solved it.  Thanks.




just looked at the parts catalog for the 435t - no missing parts I can see.


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## Fifelaker (Jan 29, 2014)

You also need to keep your bar tip UP while tensioning and tightening. If you don't when you cut it will push the bar up putting slack in the chain.


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## Jon1270 (Jan 29, 2014)

Is the bar oiler working properly?  I've head some odd chain tension issues when an oiler got plugged and the chain/bar got hot.


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## PaulR (Mar 27, 2015)

Did you get a solution?  I have exactly the same problem.  Husquavarna 240e, 1 year old, 3 gallons of gas use (so pretty new).  
It is not the chain or bar.  After say 1/2 a cut you can see the tensioning wheel vibrating loose.  No amount of tension on the nut will keep the bar from working back in this situation.  Is their a real fix or do I just throw a screw into the housing to lock down the tensioning wheel?


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## jaoneill (Mar 27, 2015)

Fifelaker said:


> You also need to keep your bar tip UP while tensioning and tightening. If you don't when you cut it will push the bar up putting slack in the chain.



I would hazard an educated guess that Fifelaker has the correct diagnosis in above. Once the side cover nuts are tightened the tensioner becomes irrelevant.


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## PaulR (Mar 27, 2015)

jaoneill said:


> I would hazard an educated guess that Fifelaker has the correct diagnosis in above. Once the side cover nuts are tightened the tensioner becomes irrelevant.


Unfortunately they do not.  The nut tightens to press metal against metal.  the adjustment pin that fits into the hole in the bar is what actually keeps it from slipping under power and vibration.  The tensioner spinning free is the problem.


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## PSYS (Mar 28, 2015)

ALL:

I think part of this stemmed from me being a chainsaw newbie and the 445 being my first saw at the time of this post.   Reading the instruction manual was useless as it doesn't completely give an accurate account of what you truly need to do.   The chain tensioner screw and the nut that holds the clutch cover on need to work in collaboration with one another.  You cannot simply tighten the chain tensioner screw prior to the nut that holds the clutch cover or vice-versa.   There appears to be a certain balance between those two pieces that allow the bar to remain firmly tightened to the saw AND the chain from getting too loose too quickly.

After using the saw dozens of times now since this post, I've finally figured this out. A neighbor came over and helped explain this to me, as well.  I don't believe there's any one particular answer... you simply need to experiment between the two and find the right balance.  It's quite simple once you get the hang of it, but as a newbie at the time - it was incredibly frustrating as I did not see the correlation between these two.

I don't know if that helps....?


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## KodiakII (Mar 28, 2015)

It is always good  to get an experienced buddy to "show you the ropes" when it comes to saws and cutting.  My dad was my mentor and I am still learning.
Silly question now that you have the saw figured out, what PPE do you have?


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## PSYS (Mar 28, 2015)

My wife bought me a pair of the Husqvarna chainsaw chaps which I have on before the saw even gets started.
I also wear my Remington shooting ear muffs and also have protective gloves that I wear as well.
I've heard way too many horror stories not to take the time or investment in PPE.
There shouldn't be any 'quick job' using a chainsaw... those are the kind that inevitably land you in an emergency room.


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## TreePointer (Apr 1, 2015)

The chaps challenge:

* * * CAUTION: GRAPHIC IMAGES * * *

Perform an image search with the following keywords:  CHAINSAW INJURY

Still want to forgo using chaps?


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## PSYS (Apr 1, 2015)

I wouldn't dream of using my saw without my chaps on.
My neighbor's horror stories about things he's seen in the field is enough incentive for me.   :D


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## firefighterjake (Apr 1, 2015)

Started using a chainsaw when I was a teen . . . and never had any injuries from a chainsaw . . . I think mainly because I learned at an early age of how to stand and handle the saw to avoid kickback.

That said . . . doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that even the most careful and safest person can have an accident . . . and when safety gear is so much cheaper than my health insurance premium . . . well it only made sense.

Plus . . . when I put on my chaps and hard hat my "cool" ness factor goes up at least 10x . . . and honestly . . . when scrounging around here . . . orange chaps, orange hard hat and orange vest = no one stops to ask questions as most assume I am a professional and doing contracted work . . . at least the few folks who have walked by and chatted with me have seemed to think I was working for the City.


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## BrotherBart (Apr 1, 2015)

The co-pay for getting my leg sewn back together at the emergency room in 1986 was $300. Chaps cost me $65. I don't mind cutting off body parts, it is just an economic thing with me.


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## Fifelaker (Apr 2, 2015)

PaulR said:


> Unfortunately they do not.  The nut tightens to press metal against metal.  the adjustment pin that fits into the hole in the bar is what actually keeps it from slipping under power and vibration.  The tensioner spinning free is the problem.


No, the pin does not keep it from moving. The nuts on the clutch cover do all of the holding. On way too many occasions I have left the bar nuts loose (not enough torque) and the chain has loosened up every time. I had an old Homelite 360 pro that I broke the adjuster on, I removed the thing so I could Pull the bar out by hand and tighten the nuts. I used it like that for almost a week 7 hrs a day while waiting for parts to replace it. It worked just fine without the pin.


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## blades (Apr 3, 2015)

Over tensioning the chain ( rubberband tight on the bar) will cause the chain to stretch as was alluded to but not mentioned specificly in a previous post on proper chain tension - that would be why the particular chain has gotten to long and you are out of adj. range. additionally running the chain that tight will cause accelerated wear of the bar and chain compounding the problem.


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## jaoneill (Apr 5, 2015)

Fifelaker said:


> No, the pin does not keep it from moving. The nuts on the clutch cover do all of the holding. On way too many occasions I have left the bar nuts loose (not enough torque) and the chain has loosened up every time. I had an old Homelite 360 pro that I broke the adjuster on, I removed the thing so I could Pull the bar out by hand and tighten the nuts. I used it like that for almost a week 7 hrs a day while waiting for parts to replace it. It worked just fine without the pin.



We agree, it's simple physics, and common sense from a mechanical standpoint. I didn't feel it was worth the argument......


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