# Painting stove pipe



## xman23 (Mar 16, 2013)

My single wall stove pipe, from the stove to the ceiling box paint is fading. We picked up one spray can of Stove Brite high temp Satin Black #1990. The plan, after the season, mask off everything and spray the pipe. Before regretting this, has anyone used this product, painted there pipe? What prep did you do? How long did it take to cure the paint and have no smell?

Thanks for the info. Tom


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## begreen (Mar 16, 2013)

What brand pipe? Older Simpson DVL had paint that was incompatible with Stove Brite. Not sure about their single wall of the same vintage, circa 2006. Try a small test spot first and let it dry, then heat it up with a hair dryer as a test.

Clean the pipe, fine (0000) steel wool it, dust then wipe with alcohol. Spray in thin layers rather than one heavy coat. Do this in a very well ventilated area and wear a vapor mask. Once dry the paint will need to get above about 500F to be fully baked.


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## Wood Heat Stoves (Mar 16, 2013)

begreen said:


> What brand pipe? Older Simpson DVL had paint that was incompatible with Stove Brite. Not sure about their single wall of the same vintage, circa 2006. Try a small test spot first and let it dry, then heat it up with a hair dryer as a test.
> 
> Clean the pipe, fine (0000) steel wool it, dust then wipe with alcohol. Spray in thin layers rather than one heavy coat. Do this in a very well ventilated area and wear a vapor mask. Once dry the paint will need to get above about 500F to be fully baked.


 
The only thing I can add to this is that it may take a couple of hours at 500F to stop smoking and smelling. Pick a day when you can open the doors and windows (trust me) and either turn off your smoke alarms or be ready to turn them off.


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## rideau (Mar 16, 2013)

If you clean from below, you can take the stovepipe off when you clean, take it outside and spray it.  That's what I do, for my ICC pipe.


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## pen (Mar 16, 2013)

Last time I used the spray I had never dealt with so much overspray / dust with any spray paint in my life. Make sure you drop cloth / cover everything to be safe!  I was using Rustoleum brand I believe.  Maybe I had a freak couple of cans, not sure. 

I use brush on anymore. 

pen


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## BobUrban (Mar 17, 2013)

Where is your stove located?  I am guessing a rattle can in the living area of the house is a recipe for disaster??  JMO - I would do it outside for sure.


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## xman23 (Mar 17, 2013)

begreen said:


> What brand pipe? Older Simpson DVL had paint that was incompatible with Stove Brite. Not sure about their single wall of the same vintage, circa 2006. Try a small test spot first and let it dry, then heat it up with a hair dryer as a test.
> 
> Clean the pipe, fine (0000) steel wool it, dust then wipe with alcohol. Spray in thin layers rather than one heavy coat. Do this in a very well ventilated area and wear a vapor mask. Once dry the paint will need to get above about 500F to be fully baked.


 

I don't know what brand the pipe is. It's the pipe in my avatar. Good advice, I will remove the rear shield and do a small test. If that looks good I will try to take the pipe out and spray outside.

Thanks Tom


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## Sprinter (Mar 20, 2013)

pen said:


> Last time I used the spray I had never dealt with so much overspray / dust with any spray paint in my life. Make sure you drop cloth / cover everything to be safe! I was using Rustoleum brand I believe. Maybe I had a freak couple of cans, not sure.
> 
> I use brush on anymore.
> 
> pen


Pen, does brush-on paint apply well?  That is, does it dry even and smooth?  I'm considering painting my double-wall pipe and ceiling box (vaulted ceiling) a lighter color like almond just for looks, but I hate the idea of spraying that much indoors.


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## pen (Mar 21, 2013)

Hmm, not sure for double wall pipe.  After application of brush on, it doesn't look as pretty as spray on.  But, once it's fired and gets good and hot, it evens out in appearance quite well.  With double wall, I'm not sure how well it would do since that outer pipe isn't getting too very hot.

pen


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## madison (Mar 21, 2013)

Sprinter - brush on worked and looked great on the indoor section of our Class A pipe (galvanized)


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## mellow (Mar 21, 2013)

I use the Rust-Oleum  high temp paint in a paint can,  I use a low nap roller to apply the paint,  it looks a world better than spray can paint.


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## Wood Heat Stoves (Mar 21, 2013)

mellow said:


> I use the Rust-Oleum high temp paint in a paint can, I use a low nap roller to apply the paint, it looks a world better than spray can paint.


 
I'll have to try that. I have about 25' of DVL double wall pipe and it would be a pain to take down and outside to paint. I have painted the lower section in the house with spray paint with lots of cardboard behind it to catch the over spray but I know the small paint droplets can drift away into the room.


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## Sprinter (Mar 21, 2013)

Thanks for the replies. I was all prepared to try a brush-on product, but I've learned that the lighter colors don't come in a brush-on for some reason. I guess black is the most forgiving color.

FWIW, one site (Stove Bright?) did not recommend using a roller. They didn't say why, but apparently all of these hi temp paints can start to peel after two mils of thickness, so maybe that's why. They also recommend re-coating only once for the same reason, since a typical two-spray application is about 2 mils.

http://stovepaintbyjim.com/painting-tips/

http://forrestpaint.com/index.php?page=stove-bright-User-guide

Maybe I won't do anything yet until I need to. Or just take great care in spraying and use a proper respirator.

Pen, you bring up a good point about the temps of double wall pipe.  I'm going to IR mine on a hot fire.  I haven't done that yet.


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## begreen (Mar 21, 2013)

If this is Simpson DVL I found Krylon High Temp paint compatible. Not sure about Rustoleum. Do a test patch, let it dry and heat it up to operating temps.


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## webby3650 (Mar 21, 2013)

Sprinter said:


> Thanks for the replies. I was all prepared to try a brush-on product, but I've learned that the lighter colors don't come in a brush-on for some reason. I guess black is the most forgiving color.
> 
> FWIW, one site (Stove Bright?) did not recommend using a roller. They didn't say why, but apparently all of these hi temp paints can start to peel after two mils of thickness, so maybe that's why. They also recommend re-coating only once for the same reason, since a typical two-spray application is about 2 mils.
> 
> ...


I'm not sure what brand of pipe you have, but most manufacturers use Stove Bright at the factory.
Dura-Vent has their own Black color of Stove Bright that they use, but it's not always a perfect match, so we just use Satin. We always have Satin on the van so it's just easier to use that and it matches pretty good.
Most single wall is painted with Flat Black Stove Bright. In fact, all of our stoves come from the factory painted with Stove Bright paint, there must be something to it. Use it, you won't be sorry.


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## Wood Heat Stoves (Mar 23, 2013)

webby3650 said:


> I'm not sure what brand of pipe you have, but most manufacturers use Stove Bright at the factory.
> Dura-Vent has their own Black color of Stove Bright that they use, but it's not always a perfect match, so we just use Satin. We always have Satin on the van so it's just easier to use that and it matches pretty good.
> Most single wall is painted with Flat Black Stove Bright. In fact, all of our stoves come from the factory painted with Stove Bright paint, there must be something to it. Use it, you won't be sorry.


 
Stove Bright and Thermalux are the most common brands I've used over the years. Both hold up really well but there can be compatability issues, though they're not common. Good idea to test first.


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## begreen (Mar 23, 2013)

You can not imagine my horror when a simple touch up with Stove Brite (left by the installer) on our Simpson DVL began to shrink and wrinkle in front of my eyes.


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## BrotherBart (Mar 23, 2013)

Whatever you do if you use Stove Bright have a lot of positive ventilation and use a mask. I shot my old stove in the house with it and the acetone in it had me sick as a dog for a week.

As to BG's horror. Sure sign of lacquer over enamel. The solvents in lacquer will do it to the enamel every time.


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## webby3650 (Mar 23, 2013)

BrotherBart said:


> Whatever you do if you use Stove Bright have a lot of positive ventilation and use a mask


I use it everyday, and I don't remember ever having a problem. That I remember?


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## BrotherBart (Mar 23, 2013)

webby3650 said:


> I use it everyday, and I don't remember ever having a problem. That I remember?


 
OK. Now I understand some of your posts. 

It is nasty stuff. One of the few acetone based spray paints still around.


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## webby3650 (Mar 23, 2013)

BrotherBart said:


> OK. Now I understand some of your posts.
> 
> It is nasty stuff. One of the few acetone based spray paints still around.


But it is the the best stuff I have ever used!


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## BrotherBart (Mar 23, 2013)

webby3650 said:


> But it is the the best stuff I have ever used!


 
No question about it. The 30-NC has five coats on it, applied in the garage with an exhaust fan and mask. And did a burn-in between coats. Outside. Looks like the day I painted it in 2006.


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## clemsonfor (Mar 25, 2013)

Sprinter said:


> Pen, does brush-on paint apply well? That is, does it dry even and smooth? I'm considering painting my double-wall pipe and ceiling box (vaulted ceiling) a lighter color like almond just for looks, but I hate the idea of spraying that much indoors.


 Get some reducer so that it thins it a bit, would think it would brush on better, it will also make it shine more if you dont want a more gloss look.


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