# Venting a Regency Hampton GCI60 pellet insert through a prefab/zero clearance fireplace?



## 1Dtml (Nov 27, 2011)

I would like to vent a pellet stove up the existing 8" chimney on a Heatilator E36 fireplace. The existing chimney is rated for 1700 degrees, so can this be done?

What is the temperature rating of pellet stove vent pipe?

Thank you,

1D


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## DexterDay (Nov 28, 2011)

Dont think the temp rating matters as much as a Stove (insert in your case) is permitted to go into a Pre-fab fireplace. Many models available to do this. And unlike a Woodstove. A pellet insert is just as efficient as a freestanding because they rely on convective heat as opposed to radiant heat.

There are only 2 downsides to using an insert. 1- Cleaning is a little harder (have to pull unit out)  2- Hopper size is a little smaller (not All the time)

You may still be able to put a freestanding stove in. I have Zero experience in that area. But as long as your Hearth met the Manufacturers requirements, you use a liner, and install block-off plates, you should be good.

Someone should be along shortly to help you with your "exact" question. You had posted in the Hearth Room asking about a freestanding. So hopefully someone with a freestanding into Pre-Fab can help.


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## 1Dtml (Nov 28, 2011)

DexterDay said:
			
		

> Dont think the temp rating matters as much as a Stove (insert in your case) is permitted to go into a Pre-fab fireplace. Many models available to do this. And unlike a Woodstove. A pellet insert is just as efficient as a freestanding because they rely on convective heat as opposed to radiant heat.
> 
> There are only 2 downsides to using an insert. 1- Cleaning is a little harder (have to pull unit out)  2- Hopper size is a little smaller (not All the time)
> 
> ...



Thank you for the reply, but I'm not really interested in an insert.

I'm looking to a freestanding like the Harman XXV, but I didn't know about needing a block off plate?

1D


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## briansol (Nov 28, 2011)

Some Inserts have a --clearance kit available on them for this design.   Piping an exhaust through it on a freestanding model probably isn't up to code in CT.


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## Wachusett (Nov 28, 2011)

I have seen this done on the site here somewhere. I believe it was an Enviro M-55 insert.
Sorry I can't lead you directly to it, but yes it has been done.


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## rickwai (Nov 28, 2011)

Should not be a problem. The 8" pipe is just a conduit for your pellet vent pipe you neeed to run to the top of the chimney.


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## libirm (Nov 29, 2011)

I pulled mine zero clearance out all together ,then my installer lined my existing pipe to fit my m55 insert.
I also built a box as per manufacture specs.  Was not hard at all..hope this hepls.
D


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## pyro68 (Nov 29, 2011)

depending on the vent requirements for your stove, and what's on the other side of your zc box, you may be better off just punching through to the outside for a horizontal vent instead of running liner all the way to the top


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## DirtyDave (Nov 30, 2011)

first off DV gas appliance thimble is huge... pellet vent is smaller. You will have to remove the old and install new or the heat loss will defeat what your trying to do. 90% of the DV apliances that I have installed or seen installed just stub thru the wall, as the take the fresh air in the outside of the pipe. pellet vent does not do that.


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## DAKSY (Nov 30, 2011)

DirtyDave said:
			
		

> first off DV gas appliance thimble is huge... pellet vent is smaller. You will have to remove the old and install new or the heat loss will defeat what your trying to do. 90% of the DV apliances that I have installed or seen installed just stub thru the wall, as the take the fresh air in the outside of the pipe. pellet vent does not do that.



He doesn't have a DV unit. It's a woodburner.

To the OP: You can do this without issue. 
Run 3" Pellet Vent off the back of your
stove & into the ZC box. If your run is
longer than 15' to the cap you will have to 
increase to a 4" liner which will run from
the PV to the cap. You may have to remove 
the damper in order to get your liner thru,
but I've been able to leave the damper in 
for some installations. That will depend on the
configuration of yours. Removing it makes the 
install easier, & will make insulating easier as well.
You can build a block-off plate, or you can stuff 
unfaced fibreglass or Kaowool around the liner where
it enters the wood vent. You may have to get creative 
at the top as the plates that come with the liner kits are 
generally square & your wood vent is round.


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## 1Dtml (Dec 1, 2011)

Thank you all for all your help!

After much research the only code compliant/safe way to do this install was to remove the existing zero clearance fireplace, and replace it with a pellet stove or pellet stove insert using the manufacturers approved installation and venting methods.

We chose the Regency GCI60 pellet insert to grant my wife's wish not to intrude too far into the living space.

I met with the building inspector, and he approved the building of a fireproof enclosure as per manufacturers installation instructions.

The existing zero clearance chimney is either to be be abandoned, or removed, and pellet style direct venting with a 5' vertical for good drafting was approved.

Once again thanks for all who participated in my quest for knowledge, for your help has been immeasurable.

1D


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## 1Dtml (Dec 6, 2011)

I started the zero clearance removal today, and I am trying to save as much marble and mantel as I can.

First I removed the mantel, and for all those going to try this I recommend removing one layer of trim a a time, and not to bother trying to pry it off the drywall because I damaged the drywall for nothing. I could only get the mantel off by removing the top layer of trims that exposed the screws that held it to the wall.

I then tried to save the marble, and I was only partially successful. 
The top piece was easy to cut the glue away, and gently pry away from the drywall, but the sides were well glued to the metal front of the fireplace, so these broke off in sections.

Next I worked carefully on the marble hearth, for I really wanted to save this.
I pulled back the carpet, and removed the carpet nailing strips. 
I noticed a piece of drywall was under the hearth, so I was able to carefully remove small sections of drywall to get a foothold for my pry-bar.
I then used a PVC cut saw to cut a slot through the drywall at the hearth corners.
I then carefully installed my pry-bar into one foothold at a time and gently pried up with the pry-bar.
After doing this I felt a release, and the whole hearth was saved without damage.

So far, so good.  :cheese: 

1D


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## flynfrfun (Dec 7, 2011)

Which insert did you settle on?


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## 1Dtml (Dec 7, 2011)

flynfrfun said:
			
		

> Which insert did you settle on?



I ended up with the Regency Hampton GCI60(same as the Enviro M55).

1D


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## rickwai (Dec 7, 2011)

Normally when we tear out a prefab wood fire place we do not disturb the face or hearth. we destroy the box and take it out in pieces. There is no market for the used units, once it comes out you will probably wonder how you can burn anything in there w/out burning house down. The ones I have seen have been very cheaply built. We normally tear out and install a zc box and harman accentra insert in about 6-7 hours.


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## 1Dtml (Dec 7, 2011)

rickwai said:
			
		

> Normally when we tear out a prefab wood fire place we do not disturb the face or hearth. we destroy the box and take it out in pieces. There is no market for the used units, once it comes out you will probably wonder how you can burn anything in there w/out burning house down. The ones I have seen have been very cheaply built. We normally tear out and install a zc box and harman accentra insert in about 6-7 hours.



I guess I'm just too used to being a waste not want not type, for I hadn't looked at it from this point of view, but I love to learn.  ;-) 

I will probably end up taking your advice today, so how do I cut this apart without having the chimney fall in on me?

I took a very hard look at the Harman Accentra, but the stove sales person said it probably wasn't big enough to heat the whole house, and believe me he preferred to sell Harman as Regency is a new brand for him.

Thank you very much for the input  

1D


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## 1Dtml (Dec 7, 2011)

For anyone going to attempt this be aware that the whole chimney may be supported by the top of the zero clearance fireplace. :ahhh: 

I removed the drywall that butted up against the fireplace, and found the mounting flange on each side. 
After removing the screws from the mounting flanges, I set about loosening up the chimney connection at the top of the fireplace, and between removing the screws, and prying at the chimney to fireplace connection I was able to get it loose enough to slide the fireplace forward. I  then was able the use a pry-bar from the bottom to pry the fireplace out from the wall. I pulled the bottom all the way out until I could flip the fireplace on its backside.
Here is when I realized that the chimney wasn't secured at all, for it ended up behind the fireplace on the chase floor.

I was very lucky that the chimney wasn't secured to the rain cap securely, or I suspect that the aluminum chase cap would have been pulled apart by the weight of the 25' chimney.

I was able to disconnect one section of chimney at a time, and remove it while resting the remainder of the chimney on the chase floor.



It is raining here, and I'm glad because I know that there are no leaks that were created by removing the chimney.   

1D


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## Frogwood (Dec 7, 2011)

Would love to see a photo of the finished project when you're done! I am contemplating doing something similar.


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## 1Dtml (Dec 7, 2011)

Frogwood said:
			
		

> Would love to see a photo of the finished project when you're done! I am contemplating doing something similar.



I'm kinda photo adding illiterate, but I've taken starting, and progressing photos, so I'll see what the wifey can do. ;-P 

1D


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## karl0525 (Dec 8, 2011)

Why not use the 8 inch to 3 inch adapter I have one and works great and has good draft. This will save you of buying 15 ft or more of 3 inch pipe if the 8 inch liner is rated to 1700 it will easily handle pellet stove heat (am I missing something here)


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## jtakeman (Dec 8, 2011)

1Dtml said:
			
		

> flynfrfun said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Saw one at the bigE(eastern states fair) and like the looks of it. Nice looking stove. Keep us posted on how you like it once its burning and Pictures of it are a must! ;-)

Bet you can't wait until itsd burning?


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## 1Dtml (Dec 8, 2011)

karl0525 said:
			
		

> Why not use the 8 inch to 3 inch adapter I have one and works great and has good draft. This will save you of buying 15 ft or more of 3 inch pipe if the 8 inch liner is rated to 1700 it will easily handle pellet stove heat (am I missing something here)



I can't tell if you are missing anything, but the inspector would not allow a sleeve through the zero clearance fireplace (and now I see why), so he approved complete removal of the existing zero clearance fireplace, and the install of the pellet insert installed as per manual (build of fireproof enclosure, and direct vent out the back of the wooden chase).

FWIW, I'm glad I had to remove the zero clearance fireplace, and I'm probably fortunate that I didn't use it much.  :bug: 

Another tip, I recommend that before you remove a zero clearance fireplace you go up on the roof, and remove the rain cap from the top of the chimney, for my chimney was only supported by resting on the top of the zero clearance fireplace.

When I pulled out the zero clearance fireplace the chimney came down with it and landed on the floor of the chase, and I was just lucky that the installer hadn't fastened the rain cap very securely or it would have ruined the chimney chase cap by pulling through it as the chimney fell.

Wifey is resting, but I should be able to put some pictures up within a few days.

1D


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## 1Dtml (Dec 8, 2011)

j-takeman said:
			
		

> 1Dtml said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



You are right I can't wait to use it, but I'll have to because the installer is scheduled two weeks out. :shut: 

But I have I bunch of work, and an inspection to get done before then.  %-P 

Pictures of install before then I hope, but wifey just noticed that the hole in the wall is kind of drafty.   

1D


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## save$ (Dec 8, 2011)

we would very much like to have a second stove in place of our prefab fireplace.   Our fireplace is over 25 years old, so we don't dare to use it.  We put in one of those inserts that look like fire, but is electric.  If you have it behind a fireplace screen, it looks real to a lot of folks.  I really want to put in a unit, but I am having a hard time to justify it when the one stove we have heats the whole home except for the very coldest parts of the winter.  Anyone have an idea what the price tag is on doing one of these transitions excluding the cost of the stove unit?   One member commented on 6 hrs.  But I don't know if that is one man or a crew.


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## 1Dtml (Dec 8, 2011)

save$ said:
			
		

> we would very much like to have a second stove in place of our prefab fireplace.   Our fireplace is over 25 years old, so we don't dare to use it.  We put in one of those inserts that look like fire, but is electric.  If you have it behind a fireplace screen, it looks real to a lot of folks.  I really want to put in a unit, but I am having a hard time to justify it when the one stove we have heats the whole home except for the very coldest parts of the winter.  Anyone have an idea what the price tag is on doing one of these transitions excluding the cost of the stove unit?   One member commented on 6 hrs.  But I don't know if that is one man or a crew.



I suspect that the "one member" could be considered a bit of an expert (or installer), and from my own personal experience I would never try to cut the fireplace apart from the inside unless you knew the secret of not having the chimney come crashing in through on top of the fireplace on you. 

Having said this, I imagine all installs are different, and mine had over 25' of chimney waiting to fall in on me, so can you say heavy? :bug: 

These chimneys are installed from the bottom up, and mine had zero supports installed, so by removing the fireplace the chimney came with it, but if you have full access to the chimney from above you could easily remove one section of chimney at a time quite safely, from the top of the chimney down.

To this point I have about 10 hours (one man) involved, and I am a first timer, so much of the time I'm thinking on what is the best, and safest way to do this.

If you are a DIY type person, I don't see it as much of a problem, but I've been doing most of the construction trades most of my life, and at one time or another I've been licensed in more than a few.

I'll try to put some progress photos up here, for pictures will be worth more than my rhetoric.  ;-) 

1D


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## 1Dtml (Dec 21, 2011)

Ok, I've learned how to post pictures, so here was the existing zero clearance fireplace.
Please note that this is not an endorsement of a DIY project for all, and I would highly recommend using professionals for all of the work needed to complete this project. I am highly skilled in most of if not all of this work, yet I'm still using an installer to put the stove insert and venting in place, and all of this work is being done and approved by local code inspectors (don't assume anything, and always get approval from the appropriate authorities). For anyone considering this project please read the install manual for the stove insert you are purchasing! This install is based on the install manual of the Regency GCI60/Enviro M55 insert.


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## 1Dtml (Dec 21, 2011)

I wanted to save as much as I could of the mantel, surround, and hearth.
I learned not to try to pry off the mantel (destroyed the drywall which could have been saved), but to remove the mantel trim pieces to reveal attachment points which can then be removed with minimal damage.
After the mantel was removed I gently pried the marble surround off, but there was too much glue on the side pieces, so I was only able to save the top in one piece, and undamaged.


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## 1Dtml (Dec 21, 2011)

With the mantel and surround out of the way I needed to remove the hearth, and I definitely wanted to save this marble in one piece and undamaged. I first removed the baseboard trim that was in the way, and then removed the carpet tack strips, so I wouldn't get all cut up working the hearth. I was then able to use a hand saw to cut away the two front corners of the rockboard base that was supporting the marble hearth. This gave me a good foothold for the flatbar to slowly break the bond of the glue.
This photo shows the rockboard after the marble was removed in one piece successfully, and also notice that the insulation contractor had filled the cooling fins with flammable insulation, so I'm very happy that we didn't use this fireplace much.  :bug:


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## 1Dtml (Dec 21, 2011)

Next I removed the insulation, so I could loosen the stove to vent connection above the stove. I removed all the V shaped cooling fins, and vent mounting screws. I was then able to get the stove to vent pipe connection nice, and loose, so I could pull the stove forward, and out.


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## 1Dtml (Dec 21, 2011)

Next I removed all of the mounting flange screws from the sides of the front of the stove. I also disconnected the outside air kit from the left side of the fireplace.

Here is where my inexperience could have been very bad, but this time it was better to be lucky than good...I guess.

For those trying this I highly recommend that you take a trip up on your roof top, take off the top piece of piping (rain cap), and make sure that the top of the chimney pipe is disconnected from the chase cap. This photo shows the rain cap (the round shaped mesh looking piece), and the chase cap (the square alum top on the chase).


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## 1Dtml (Dec 21, 2011)

After you make a trip to the top of the roof, take off the raincap, and make sure the top piece of pipe is disconnected from the chase cap you can drag the stove forward. My luck was good (for I didn't make that necessary trip to disconnect things up top), for the installer had not secured the top pipe to the raincap securely, or I would have surely ruined the chase cap when the weight of the chimney pulling down as I pulled the fireplace out of the wall.

Please be careful as you pull the fireplace out of the wall, for my vent pipe was not supported, or secured to anything except the top of the fireplace
So as I pulled it out of the wall the whole 25' chimney came down with it and landed behind it after I pulled the fireplace out. :ahhh:


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## 1Dtml (Dec 21, 2011)

Next I was able to disconnect one section of chimney pipe at a time, remove it from the chase, and carefully place the chimney on the base of the chase until the whole chimney was removed. The photos show a look up the chase, and the plywood fire-block that I installed after removing through the floor thimbles.


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## 1Dtml (Dec 21, 2011)

I then removed the remainder of the outside air kit, and blocked it off from the outside making sure that it was weather tight.


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## 1Dtml (Dec 21, 2011)

Framing of the approved fireproof box was then performed (as shown in the Hamptom GCI60 install manual). Notice that I provided a frame for the venting thimble so the installer was not drilling through the middle of a timber. I also installed the thermostat wire, and a flexible sleeve for the power cord, so all will be concealed from view when installation is complete.


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## 1Dtml (Dec 21, 2011)

It was now time to re-insulate (correctly and safely).


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## 1Dtml (Dec 21, 2011)

After I installed the rockboard top, and sides it was time to frame out the fireproof airspace for under the stove insert, and hearth as shown in the installation manual.


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## 1Dtml (Dec 21, 2011)

Rockboard installed as per the GCI60 manual, and inspection complete, so on to tiling after some additional preparations are complete.


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## smoke show (Dec 21, 2011)

nice write up.

looking good.


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## 1Dtml (Dec 29, 2011)

I fireproofed all the seems, and installed a cord cap for power.


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## 1Dtml (Dec 29, 2011)

The marble hearth goes back in, and the new tile is checked out by the wifey.


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## 1Dtml (Dec 29, 2011)

After twisting my knee the wifey had to install the tile, so very talented is she. ;-)


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## 1Dtml (Dec 29, 2011)

Wifey kept us on schedule for the installers, so the stove went in yesterday, and got fired up.
Mantel and misc are left, but it is throwing heat, so the rest can wait until I can walk again. ;-)


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## DexterDay (Dec 29, 2011)

Wow.... Looks great.

Very nice write-up and documentation.


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## smoke show (Dec 29, 2011)

DexterDay said:
			
		

> Wow.... Looks great.
> 
> Very nice write-up and documentation.



x2


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## 1Dtml (Jan 27, 2012)

Finishing touches are done. Before & after.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 27, 2012)

You and your wife did a very good job 1Dtml.

Trust you somewhat have your legs back under you and the knee is doing better.


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## 1Dtml (Jan 27, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:
			
		

> You and your wife did a very good job 1Dtml.
> 
> Trust you somewhat have your legs back under you and the knee is doing better.



The knee is feeling better, but alas I need surgery.

Having said that, it's all good, and I'm keeping warm.  ;-) 

Thank you so much for the complements, and the concern.

1D


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## mfglickman (Jan 27, 2012)

Looks great, love the tile too!


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## inkslanger (Jan 31, 2012)

Im in the process of building the same kind of setup with a Harman Accentra. I was wondering what you used to fireproof the seams inside the box and if you ran the pellet stove pipe straight up the chimney without the old chimney sleeve. I will try to post pics. I gutted the old fireplace box down to the framing, framed out the hearth more, and the zero clearance box. I was gonna work on the rock board today, but im going out of town for a few days for work. I will post pics when i get back.


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## 1Dtml (Jan 31, 2012)

inkslanger said:
			
		

> Im in the process of building the same kind of setup with a Harman Accentra. I was wondering what you used to fireproof the seams inside the box and if you ran the pellet stove pipe straight up the chimney without the old chimney sleeve. I will try to post pics. I gutted the old fireplace box down to the framing, framed out the hearth more, and the zero clearance box. I was gonna work on the rock board today, but im going out of town for a few days for work. I will post pics when i get back.



Hello there, I used the fireproof sealant that you use on the pipe install to seal inside the box.
I didn't go up the chimney chase, for it would be more difficult to keep it clean, and more expensive than going out the back.

Go to the M55 Cast FPI (link below), and then click on the technical manual, and Look on page #16 figure #12 in this manual for my exact install:

http://www.enviro.com/fireplace-products/pellet/fireplace-insert.html#M55castfpi

Another recommendation is to use ICC EXCELPellet venting (use their find a dealer search for your area), no leaks and no need to use sealant (except on the stove adapter) because of the built in gaskets. I used 4" venting.

http://www.icc-rsf.com/en/icc/excelpellet-for-pellet-vent

I hope this helps, and give a shout for any other questions.

1D


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## inkslanger (Jan 31, 2012)

Why would it be more expensive to run up the chimney? The cost of pipe? I dont really want the vent going through my exterior wall. I have about a 14' run to the top and the guy that i bought the stove from said hed give me pipe at cost. I got the stove used for $1600 so im sitting pretty dann good price wise on the build. Ill check outthe manual you postes a link to tomorrow. I know the Harman manual is pretty vague on install.

Thanks


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## 1Dtml (Jan 31, 2012)

inkslanger said:
			
		

> Why would it be more expensive to run up the chimney? The cost of pipe? I dont really want the vent going through my exterior wall. I have about a 14' run to the top and the guy that i bought the stove from said hed give me pipe at cost. I got the stove used for $1600 so im sitting pretty dann good price wise on the build. Ill check outthe manual you postes a link to tomorrow. I know the Harman manual is pretty vague on install.
> 
> Thanks



To the top of my chase was over 25 feet, so yes the cost, but with just 14' either way is good.

I would recommend that you install an OAK (outside air kit) as well, and always test a few bags of pellets before you make a big purchase by the ton.

Good luck, and keep warm  ;-) 

1D


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## inkslanger (Feb 7, 2012)

So i went to the local Harman dealer to buy the chimney pipes. He told me that because Harman doesnt call out to install the Accentra in a zero clearance hardi backer box like you did that if a fire were to ever happen my insurance company wouldnt cover it. He said it has to be installed in a existing zero clearance fireplace or the convenient zero clearance box from Harman which costs another $300 on top of the $4000 stove. He told me to cut the raised floor out of the existing zero clearance box i had to drop it down to the height of the hearth. I ended up taking all the framing out that i did, and cut the bottom of the zero clearance fireplace out and to my suprise there are holes in the bottom piece of sheet metal on that and it opens up about 5"s at the bottom so you can see the outside sheet metal. I dont understand how thats safe as compared to the approach you took and i was in the process of taking. I ended up lining the sides, back, and bottom with hardi backer to be on the safe side. Just thought id share that info for anyone else interested in the accentra.


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## 1Dtml (Feb 7, 2012)

For all that follow it would be an extremely good idea to read the install manual (most can be downloaded from online) before you partake in doing your own install, for each and every stove manufacturer has their own approved way of doing the install. I also met with the local code authorities to get the install pre-approved, and went through the permit, and inspection process, which may be a required process for your home owners insurance.

As for the Harman Accentra, buying the approved metal install box will cost about the same as all the materials involved without counting the labor for the install that I did. In my case the Accentra wasn't big enough to properly heat my home, so I had to follow the recommendations of the install manual for the Regency GCI60/Enviro M55 insert, for to my knowledge there is not a factory approved  metal box available.

1D


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## 1Dtml (Feb 7, 2012)

Here is the pictures of the "out the back of the chase" 4" exhaust venting as recommended by the Regency Hampton GCI60 technical manual on page # 17, figure #12, and notice the outside air kit (OAK) installed below and to the left on the chase.Once again please refer to your own Manufactures technical install manual for details on your own install.


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## inkslanger (Feb 7, 2012)

I dont know what the prices of materials are like where you are at, but for all the hardi backer, lumber for framing and mantle, and tile from the floor to the ceiling was $700. That was including all the extra material to frame out the box and hardi backer it, but over 90% of the cost went to tile. It would have worked out to about $60 in material vs $300 for the harman zero clearance box. In my case the way i did it now only cost me about 20 minutes with a grinder and $15..... i agree talk to an actual dealer for the stove you purchase and download the install manual. Im not blaming you for my first approach i was told by the guys i bought the stove from (not harman dealers) who have been doing it for "years" to do it the way you were, and i was searching to finding someone else that did something similar which landed me here. I was just trying to touch on the subject and point that out to other people reading this.


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## 1Dtml (Feb 7, 2012)

inkslanger said:
			
		

> I dont know what the prices of materials are like where you are at, but for all the hardi backer, lumber for framing and mantle, and tile from the floor to the ceiling was $700. That was including all the extra material to frame out the box and hardi backer it, but over 90% of the cost went to tile. It would have worked out to about $60 in material vs $300 for the harman zero clearance box. In my case the way i did it now only cost me about 20 minutes with a grinder and $15..... i agree talk to an actual dealer for the stove you purchase and download the install manual. Im not blaming you for my first approach i was told by the guys i bought the stove from (not harman dealers) who have been doing it for "years" to do it the way you were, and i was searching to finding someone else that did something similar which landed me here. I was just trying to touch on the subject and point that out to other people reading this.



No problem at all, and when you mentioned the Accentra I should have directed you to use the ZC steel box, but instead I just tried to answer the questions that were asked.
As far as the material cost I wasn't counting the tile or mantel into my costs, but I needed drywall, drywall mud, insulation, metal studs, wood studs, rock board, rock board & drywall screws, fireproof adhesive, misc electrical supplies, and I'm sure I'm missing some other things.
My dealer had quoted me a bit over $200.00 for the Accentra ZC steel box, and the install of that would have been about an hour instead of roughly eight hours, so I would have gladly went with it instead, but the Accentra wasn't large enough to heat my house.

I was glad to see your post because I was able to go back and highlight some points to clarify that this install was from the manufactures technical install manual not something that I made up on my own.

I was actually trying to change the topic title to further prevent any confusion, but have been unable to figure out how as of yet.

I do hope this was somewhat helpful to you, and others, and I'm sorry for any confusion I may have caused.

1D


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## DexterDay (Feb 7, 2012)

To change the title. Go to the very 1st post and click "Edit". From there you can change it.


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## inkslanger (Feb 7, 2012)

Yeah and it wasnt you that mislead me to begin with it was the guys i bought the stove from. Ill post some pics when i get a chance. I tried to do it from my cell phone, but the pics are too big so i have to get them onto my computer and resize them. Thanks for the help


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## 1Dtml (Feb 7, 2012)

DexterDay said:
			
		

> To change the title. Go to the very 1st post and click "Edit". From there you can change it.



Thank you Dexter!

The title has been updated. ;-P 

1D


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## 1Dtml (Feb 7, 2012)

inkslanger said:
			
		

> Yeah and it wasnt you that mislead me to begin with it was the guys i bought the stove from. Ill post some pics when i get a chance. I tried to do it from my cell phone, but the pics are too big so i have to get them onto my computer and resize them. Thanks for the help



Awesome, I'm glad it worked out for you, and I would love to see some pics. ;-) 

1D


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