# PelletMaster Pm 3000 Owners



## mtalea (Jan 6, 2006)

Hello all
             I have a PelletMaster PM3000 Titan but I do not have the owners manual. Does any one have an extra or could someone maybe a copy for me..I am having no luck get 1 from anyplace I have tried.


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## zogboy (Jan 7, 2006)

mtalea said:
			
		

> Hello all
> I have a PelletMaster PM3000 Titan but I do not have the owners manual. Does any one have an extra or could someone maybe a copy for me..I am having no luck get 1 from anyplace I have tried.



Would you like to sale the stove without a manual?
I am near Syracuse NY and could use  the spare parts to keep my shop
heater going 1 or 2 more seasons.


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## zogboy (Jan 7, 2006)

I meant to ask where is the stove?


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## mtalea (Jan 7, 2006)

No sorry.....i am keeping the stove......it works well.....and in a year or so it is going in my shop

Im in CT


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## zogboy (Jan 7, 2006)

ok,
thanks for the reply


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## hearthtools (Jan 7, 2006)

hello this is Rod  the owner of hearthtools.com

I want to say sorry to some of you that are waiting for manuals 
Our Master copies got messed up and I am trying to find some fresh ones to make copies to send out to you all.
You get a Trouble shooting guide with the manual when we send the manuals out.

I hope to have some manuals by next week


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## mtalea (Jan 9, 2006)

I would like to extend my graditude and special thanks to Rod at Hearthtools....for replying back and forth with me even after i had some not so kind words....MY impatience got the better of me and I offer my humble apology to Rod and his team for the help they have givin me and others...

I am sure we ALL appreciate your input and experience in these matters.



Thanks a million

Matt


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## mtalea (Jan 10, 2006)

Hello Rod
               When you say that the pelletmaster requires an 8' vent does it have to be straight up before any horizontals?


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## zogboy (Jan 10, 2006)

mtalea said:
			
		

> Hello Rod
> When you say that the pelletmaster requires an 8' vent does it have to be straight up before any horizontals?



I read a post that he said 5'
but again I tell you my stove uses 4" 24ga black pipe flue with a 2' rise and a 2' horizontal
I cleaned my stove again today and will do it again in another month.
Remember to keep your door and hopper gaskets in good repair.
Even it your stove smokes  you shouldn't smell it when your stove doors are closed.


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## hearthtools (Jan 11, 2006)

mtalea said:
			
		

> Hello Rod
> When you say that the pelletmaster requires an 8' vent does it have to be straight up before any horizontals?


I like to go 3 feet up then out but you can have less but if you dont have 5 feet or more after your horizantal  going up you will have smoke problems especialy when you shut off the stove.

You need this for Draft to help suck the smoke out.

there is a way with a Magnehelic to test how much Negitive pressure you have in the hopper.
Take one screw that holds the front top on that is into the top of the hopper. Put the Negitive side of the hose on this hole and run the stove hot and see if you have a min of .03 vacuum.

If you do not smoke will back into the hopper.

Not haveing Neg pressure in the hopper can be from 
Not enough draft in pipe

Door/ashpan seales bad
Hopper seal bad.


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## mtalea (Jan 17, 2006)

Ok Rod right now my setup is as follows.....about 3' up then 5'out....I will change that to 3' up and 3' out then 5' up again from that...will that help?


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## hearthtools (Jan 17, 2006)

mtalea said:
			
		

> Ok Rod right now my setup is as follows.....about 3' up then 5'out....I will change that to 3' up and 3' out then 5' up again from that...will that help?



Yes the more veritcal the better
and make sure you Horizonal pipe has some kind of rise to it.


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## mtalea (Jan 17, 2006)

Ok I will do that.....should I install a "T " with clean out at end of 3' horizontal ?

Is there a fan to be installed at top of 5' vertical or is that not needed?

Also, have you gotten the manuals ready for shipping?


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## mtalea (Jan 22, 2006)

Hey Rod ,I have yet another question for ya.

On the back of the pelletmaster pm3000 titan.....the air intake hole,If a small fan was blowing in to that port, would that do anything for me/the stoves performance/cleaner burn and smell??


Thanks
Matt Adams


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## hearthtools (Jan 22, 2006)

mtalea said:
			
		

> Hey Rod ,I have yet another question for ya.
> 
> On the back of the pelletmaster pm3000 titan.....the air intake hole,If a small fan was blowing in to that port, would that do anything for me/the stoves performance/cleaner burn and smell??
> 
> ...


Did you get your manual and trouble shooting guide UPS yet if not you will get it monday
I sent it MY SELF 2nd day air.

The hole in the back is feeding air to a 3000 RPM blower putting more air wll only make tubulance

Just made sure you pull that blower every year and clean out the dust bunnies and oil it.
and keep the screen clean.

The book for the TITAIN shows a min of 24" up before an Elbo then a min of 5 feet up on the out side
I highlighted it in blue in your manual I sent.


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## mtalea (Jan 22, 2006)

No havent received it yet but is scheduled for Monday delivery..thank you very much...

My new setup for pipe is as follows....

2' vertical pipe.......45degree elbow....45 degree elbow....3' horizontal......."t" elbow with clean out........5' vertical with rain cap......

how does that sound?


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## hearthtools (Feb 5, 2006)

http://thehowzone.com/how/PelletStove


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## bfraymond (Oct 18, 2006)

I am looking for a manual as well. I know they can be purchased but $20 seems rather high. If any has one, I can give you a fax or email address.

Thanks,
Brent


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## mtalea (Oct 19, 2006)

Sorry i would send it to ya. But I do fell alil uneasy about it. I happily purchased mine from Rod and was happy to pay the 20.00 or what ever it was. As I am still new to pellet stoves and I am still using my Pelletmaster and that Rod's company has parts for said stove.I would rather not get on his bad side.Pay for the manual...help support those who support the pelletmaster and some free advice to boot.


Again I am sorry to decline u,but Im sure you understand.

Thanks
Matt


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## hearthtools (Oct 19, 2006)

I don’t mind if you send him a copy
If you can figure out how to copy the front and back and make it all fit.

The price includes shipping and we send you a Trouble shooting guide that we made up. The manual does not have much of trouble shooting it only covers installation and how to run it.
So you get TWO books for the price of one.

I feel the price is right for the COST of shipping it UPS and our time and cost of  printing it.
At least I had the since to Keep all the old Manuals for a stove that has not been made in over 10 years.
I could have just tossed them out because I don’t need them.
$20 is not bad TIME is money and im not in business to give my time or money away.

I have tried to put them on PDF but because they are on 1/2 BOOK layout Front and back pages form they don’t work out correctly in a PDF file


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## bfraymond (Oct 19, 2006)

hearthtools said:
			
		

> I don’t mind if you send him a copy
> If you can figure out how to copy the front and back and make it all fit.
> 
> The price includes shipping and we send you a Trouble shooting guide that we made up. The manual does not have much of trouble shooting it only covers installation and how to run it.
> ...



I understand time is money. Doesn't hurt to ask.


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## bfraymond (Oct 19, 2006)

The reason I was looking for a manual is I can't read the settings on the side of the stove. These are my guess

First stitch Up: Start       Down: Run
Second     Up: Hot    Middle: Low    Down: Med.

Second question is in the back of the stove there is a adjustable dial type switch, any idea was it is for? 

Thanks for any help.

Brent


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## Homefire (Oct 19, 2006)

bfraymond said:
			
		

> The reason I was looking for a manual is I can't read the settings on the side of the stove. These are my guess
> 
> First stitch Up: Start       Down: Run
> Second     Up: Hot    Middle: Low    Down: Med.
> ...



First                       UP= START                            CENTER = OFF                       DOWN = RUN
Second                  UP=HIGH FEED                        CENTER=LOW FEED               DOWN= MEDIMUM FEED
THIRD                    UP= HIGH FAN                        CENTER = OFF                       DOWN= LOW FAN

The dail in the back should controll the conbustion air, try turning it until you hear a click that will   be off. Click it back on and turn 1/4 turn. That should be a good place to start with this stove.
I have seen this controll connected to the room air on some stoves to controll the noise of the blower on high.

Is your  model rated for rice coal?


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## hearthtools (Oct 19, 2006)

The dial in the back is for the ROOM AIR BLOWER ON LOW
not the combustin blower.
this is to adjust the Low setting on the room air fan.

The fan switch does NOT have a middle selection Only high and low
you can put it in the middle to turn the fan off but not recomended for the stove will over heat
and the switch is not designed that way and  you might fry it.


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## bfraymond (Oct 20, 2006)

First                       UP= START                            CENTER = OFF                       DOWN = RUN
Second                  UP=HIGH FEED                        CENTER=LOW FEED               DOWN= MEDIMUM FEED
THIRD                    UP= HIGH FAN                        CENTER = OFF                       DOWN= LOW FAN

The dail in the back should controll the conbustion air, try turning it until you hear a click that will   be off. Click it back on and turn 1/4 turn. That should be a good place to start with this stove.
I have seen this controll connected to the room air on some stoves to controll the noise of the blower on high.

Is your  model rated for rice coal?[/quote]

I don't know. It is the first "winter" i have used the stove. How would I be able to tell.

Brent


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## Homefire (Oct 20, 2006)

If your pm 3000 Titan was designed for  rice coal the gold lable under the hopper cover will so state.
If that lable is missing then you will need to post photos of your fire box clinker ring and a photo of the 
stoker control panel in the back of the stove.


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## bfraymond (Oct 20, 2006)

Is your  model rated for rice coal?



I don't know too much about rice coal, other than it is coal, and I would fathom to goes rather small. How does it burn, cost, is it dirty to burn. I just bought 4 tons of pellets over the summer so I am good for this winter but would like to know more.

Brent


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## Homefire (Oct 20, 2006)

If you have a good supplier of pellets or corn then use them.
Coal has 1 + 2/3 the btu's of wood or corn but you have to clean the stove more often and 
empty the ash pan everyday to keep it from overflowing.

I burn corn + pellets mixed at about 50/ 50 but the stove burn almost anything that will fit through the auger.


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## bfraymond (Oct 20, 2006)

homefire said:
			
		

> If you have a good supplier of pellets or corn then use them.
> Coal has 1 + 2/3 the btu's of wood or corn but you have to clean the stove more often and
> empty the ash pan everyday to keep it from overflowing.
> 
> I burn corn + pellets mixed at about 50/ 50 but the stove burn almost anything that will fit through the auger.



I think I saw a thread on this, but let me ask you anyway. Sometimes after I shut the stove off. The fire will eventually die out, yet it seems to smolder back up the auger to the hopper. The pellets are usaully charred and the hopper is hot and filled with smoke. The seal on the doors and the hopper gasket seem to be in good shape. Is there any other way air could get in there, or any reason you can think of that this would be doing this. Like I have said I have only run the stove a handful of times, so I am still trying to get my arms around how it performs/operates. You and Ron have been very helpful. I appreciate your input.

Brent


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## hearthtools (Oct 20, 2006)

For coal you would need the coal burn pot
this pot is taller than the original and has more air
the photos in the link about are the original.
and before you ask No I do not have any of the coal kits.


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## bfraymond (Oct 20, 2006)

hearthtools said:
			
		

> No I do not have any of the coal kits.



Thanks. Do you have any of the coal kits?


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## bfraymond (Oct 23, 2006)

Tell me if this sounds right, I light the stove at 10a.m, it burned until roughly 4 in the a.m. the next day. It was burning on low the entire time. Someone once told me the 40 lb. bag would be all day. I know this is close to a full day, I am just curious if this sounds about right.

Brent


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## Homefire (Oct 23, 2006)

bfraymond said:
			
		

> Tell me if this sounds right, I light the stove at 10a.m, it burned until roughly 4 in the a.m. the next day. It was burning on low the entire time. Someone once told me the 40 lb. bag would be all day. I know this is close to a full day, I am just curious if this sounds about right.
> 
> Brent





If you took the time to research on google or Hearthtools website you could find most all of the information you are seeking.


4     Auger Feed times for stoves made after 1-1-94 times may very
 High               17 Sec on /  3 sec off  4.75 pounds per hour
 Med              12 sec on /  8 sec off  2.5 pounds per hour
 Low                8 sec on  /  12 sec off  2.5 pounds per hour
 Keep fire mode 4 sec on / 16 sec off    .8 pounds per hours


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## bfraymond (Oct 23, 2006)

If you took the time to research on google or Hearthtools website you could find most all of the information you are seeking.


4     Auger Feed times for stoves made after 1-1-94 times may very
 High               17 Sec on /  3 sec off  4.75 pounds per hour
 Med              12 sec on /  8 sec off  2.5 pounds per hour
 Low                8 sec on  /  12 sec off  2.5 pounds per hour
 Keep fire mode 4 sec on / 16 sec off    .8 pounds per hours[/quote]

I found that information. Thanks though. Which makes no sense anyways....12 secs on is going to burn at the same rate as 8 seconds on. 

I guess I was looking for actual rates or times, not the numbers they give you. Sorry to burden you.


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## bfraymond (Nov 10, 2006)

I need to replace the rope gasket on the door to the burn pot. I have the rope. This is the first time I have had to do it...anything I should know? 

Thanks
Brent


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## hearthtools (Nov 15, 2006)

> Hi rod, today I received the pelletmaster hopper lid gasket I ordered from ya, but have a question...the knob turn to lock the hopper lid closed...smoke is leaking thru that,what can I do



Most of this info is on our hepl page http://www.hearthtools.com/pellet/service_tips_and_trouble_shootin.htm


First
 Do you have a minimum of 8 feet of vertical rise in your pipe?

Is your pipe and and horizontal run Clear of Ash or BIRDS?

Is the door and ash pan door sealing tight?

They only reason you will have smoke in the hopper is the above reasons or if there was an air leak in the hopper.

Or your combustin blower is weak.

Sorry I cant help you any more.


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## hearthtools (Nov 16, 2006)

bfraymond said:
			
		

> If you took the time to research on google or Hearthtools website you could find most all of the information you are seeking.
> 
> 
> 4     Auger Feed times for stoves made after 1-1-94 times may very
> ...





> I found that information. Thanks though. Which makes no sense anyways....12 secs on is going to burn at the same rate as 8 seconds on.
> 
> I guess I was looking for actual rates or times, not the numbers they give you. Sorry to burden you.



My website had a typo for the feed rate
the Low seting is 2.25 pounds


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## mtalea (Nov 16, 2006)

Hey Rod do you sell the ash pan door gasket for the pelletmaster 3000 titan? also i sent ya anoth private msg


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## hearthtools (Nov 16, 2006)

mtalea said:
			
		

> Hey Rod do you sell the ash pan door gasket for the pelletmaster 3000 titan? also i sent ya anoth private msg



I think that is just a 3/8 or 1/2 rope gasket
you can get it localy.


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## mtalea (Nov 16, 2006)

ok thanks Rod.will get that.. did u receive my private msg regarding my pipe config?


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## bfraymond (Nov 16, 2006)

hearthtools said:
			
		

> bfraymond said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



That makes a liitle more sense. What a big difference in heat out put from low to medium and only a quater pound difference. 
Thanks for the update.

Brent


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## hearthtools (Nov 16, 2006)

bfraymond said:
			
		

> hearthtools said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



If you use a thermostat you will use less pellets.
IF you are using a Stat RUN THE STOVE ON HIGH 
This will keep the stove, Glass and Less build up of clinkers in the burn pot.
Reason.
The stove will run HOT and burn off the crap. then when the thermostat calls for NO heat.
it will run on low. This high low cycle is much better that a LOW cycle all the time for it will burn off the stove and you will have less build up in the stove and pipe.

If you run the stove on low the stove will never get hot enough to burn off off.
and with a stat as you can see there is not much differnce in Idel mode that low.

The average home will use 40# in 24 hours but not unusual to use more with colder homes.


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## hearthtools (Nov 16, 2006)

mtalea said:
			
		

> Hey Rod do you sell the ash pan door gasket for the pelletmaster 3000 titan? also i sent ya anoth private msg



On the pellet master the MORE pipe the better. You can never have too much. 95% of smoke in hopper or smoke in home from pellet master stoves is from people being to cheep to put the amount of pipe they need or to much horizontal run.
Each EXTRA (the first out of the stove is a FREEBIE)  90 deg or T will take off 5 feet of your vertical run. so If I say you need a minum of 8 feet of vertical run you have to add 5 feet for each 90 deg turn you have in your vent system.

Because it is a positive combustion system it needs draft. Unlike Bottom fed systems that have a Negitive draft system that forces (sucks) the Combustion gases out through the venting.

Also as you know when you shut the stove off there is NO blower to force the Smoke from the stove out so the Draft from the pipe has to do this job.


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## hearthtools (Nov 16, 2006)

mtalea said:
			
		

> ok thanks Rod.will get that.. did u receive my private msg regarding my pipe config?



That 3 feet of horizantal run is hurting your draft also.
Be sure you have 1/4 rise per foot or at least 3/4 of an inch in that 3 foot run.


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## bfraymond (Nov 16, 2006)

Brent[/quote]

If you use a thermostat you will use less pellets.
IF you are using a Stat RUN THE STOVE ON HIGH 
This will keep the stove, Glass and Less build up of clinkers in the burn pot.
Reason.
The stove will run HOT and burn off the crap. then when the thermostat calls for NO heat.
it will run on low. This high low cycle is much better that a LOW cycle all the time for it will burn off the stove and you will have less build up in the stove and pipe.

If you run the stove on low the stove will never get hot enough to burn off off.
and with a stat as you can see there is not much differnce in Idel mode that low.

The average home will use 40# in 24 hours but not unusual to use more with colder homes.[/quote]

Thanks for the info. This raises many more questions for me.I have never had the stove shut off becuase it has reached a temperture. I am not runnng a thermostat on it as of yet. I have noted in early post regarding feed rates, that you have mentioned a KEEP setting. I don't think that I have this option. I basically run it on low most of the time, I am in upstate NY and it hasn't gotten to cold yet. This will heat the entire house over a 16 hour period, 70 both upstairs and down. 16 hours is about how long it takes for the 40 pound bag to run out. Do you think I should be getting more time out of a bag? The times I have turned it to MED or HIGH it does put off nice hot heat. Seeing this is the first year I am heating with pellets, I want to make sure I have enough for the season and not waste bags when it is not that cold. I bought 4 ton during the summertime. 

I know that was a lot of rambling but any insight on the KEEP setting would be helpful. Thanks again, I am just a rook, so this info help.

Brent


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## hearthtools (Nov 16, 2006)

bfraymond said:
			
		

> Brent



If you use a thermostat you will use less pellets.
IF you are using a Stat RUN THE STOVE ON HIGH 
This will keep the stove, Glass and Less build up of clinkers in the burn pot.
Reason.
The stove will run HOT and burn off the crap. then when the thermostat calls for NO heat.
it will run on low. This high low cycle is much better that a LOW cycle all the time for it will burn off the stove and you will have less build up in the stove and pipe.

If you run the stove on low the stove will never get hot enough to burn off off.
and with a stat as you can see there is not much differnce in Idel mode that low.

The average home will use 40# in 24 hours but not unusual to use more with colder homes.
[/quote]


> Thanks for the info. This raises many more questions for me.I have never had the stove shut off becuase it has reached a temperture. I am not runnng a thermostat on it as of yet. I have noted in early post regarding feed rates, that you have mentioned a KEEP setting. I don't think that I have this option. I basically run it on low most of the time, I am in upstate NY and it hasn't gotten to cold yet. This will heat the entire house over a 16 hour period, 70 both upstairs and down. 16 hours is about how long it takes for the 40 pound bag to run out. Do you think I should be getting more time out of a bag? The times I have turned it to MED or HIGH it does put off nice hot heat. Seeing this is the first year I am heating with pellets, I want to make sure I have enough for the season and not waste bags when it is not that cold. I bought 4 ton during the summertime.
> 
> I know that was a lot of rambling but any insight on the KEEP setting would be helpful. Thanks again, I am just a rook, so this info help.
> 
> Brent



THE KEEP FIRE IS THE THERMOSTAT MODE THAT IS NOT CALLING FOR HEAT (room temp at 70 deg and the stat set for 65 Deg.

When the Thermostate connection has a closed (calling for heat) circuit (demand mode) it runs at the feed rate you have it set at.

When the Thermostat connection is an OPEN (calling for NO HEAT) circuit (KEEP FIRE MODE or I call it idel mode) the stove will run at less than 1 # per hour no matter what you have the feed rate setting at.

THE THERMOSTAT WILL NOT SHUT THE STOVE OFF. If it did you would have to light the stove again because the stove does not have an automatic ignitor.

Sounds like you will use about 150 bags a year.


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## bfraymond (Nov 16, 2006)

[/quote]

THE KEEP FIRE IS THE THERMOSTAT MODE THAT IS NOT CALLING FOR HEAT (room temp at 70 deg and the stat set for 65 Deg.

When the Thermostate connection has a closed (calling for heat) circuit (demand mode) it runs at the feed rate you have it set at.

When the Thermostat connection is an OPEN (calling for NO HEAT) circuit (KEEP FIRE MODE or I call it idel mode) the stove will run at less than 1 # per hour no matter what you have the feed rate setting at.

THE THERMOSTAT WILL NOT SHUT THE STOVE OFF. If it did you would have to light the stove again because the stove does not have an automatic ignitor.

Sounds like you will use about 150 bags a year.[/quote]

Ok. I hope I am not beating a dead horse here, but I don't think I have the keep option. The stove was used and all of the settings on the side are worn off. Do you by chance have a digital pick of the settings, so I can see what you are talking about. I guess I am a little lost. Maybe I just don't have it.

Brent


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## mtalea (Nov 16, 2006)

Thanks Rod. I just bought the ash pan door gasket and I will be installing that in a few minutes.I kinda thought that the 3' of horizontal wasn't very good but needed that much to get out the wall past my soffit /roof over hang.I will try the extra pipe I ordered and next year I guess I will have to go straight up thru the ceiling thru the roof...kinda waiting til I reroofed my house so I can flash it properly.

Any other insights you have is welcomed and appreciated

Thanks as always
Matt


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## hearthtools (Nov 16, 2006)

THE KEEP FIRE IS THE THERMOSTAT MODE THAT IS NOT CALLING FOR HEAT (room temp at 70 deg and the stat set for 65 Deg.

When the Thermostate connection has a closed (calling for heat) circuit (demand mode) it runs at the feed rate you have it set at.

When the Thermostat connection is an OPEN (calling for NO HEAT) circuit (KEEP FIRE MODE or I call it idel mode) the stove will run at less than 1 # per hour no matter what you have the feed rate setting at.

THE THERMOSTAT WILL NOT SHUT THE STOVE OFF. If it did you would have to light the stove again because the stove does not have an automatic ignitor.

Sounds like you will use about 150 bags a year.[/quote]

Ok. I hope I am not beating a dead horse here, but I don't think I have the keep option. The stove was used and all of the settings on the side are worn off. Do you by chance have a digital pick of the settings, so I can see what you are talking about. I guess I am a little lost. Maybe I just don't have it.

Brent[/quote]

aaahhh.. you are still cornfused.
there are a set of low voltage wires coming out of the back bottom of the stove.
they come off the control board and loop through the stove overheat switch.
Gray sheilded and two wires Red and black or white and black. depends on the wire used.

if you stove is runiing at the differnt settings then the two wires are wirenutted together.
if they were not then the stove will only work in the keep fire mode.

The thermostat is connected to the two wires coming off the back of the stove
and open cercuit (keep fire) is when the two wires are NOT connected together = an open cercuit
and the stove will feed at the keep fire rate.

when the two wires are together that = and closed cercuit and it will feed at what you have the stove set at 
High, Med or Low.

A thermostat is basicly a switch that OPENS an CLOSES the cercuit at the set tempature. ither by a set of points that open and close, Electonicly if it is a battery operated digital thermostat or by a mercury switch.

This is the best I can do to explain this.
and a lot more the manual or any other book will tell you.
most of this is on my help page just above the auger times.


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## hearthtools (Nov 16, 2006)

mtalea said:
			
		

> Thanks Rod. I just bought the ash pan door gasket and I will be installing that in a few minutes.I kinda thought that the 3' of horizontal wasn't very good but needed that much to get out the wall past my soffit /roof over hang.I will try the extra pipe I ordered and next year I guess I will have to go straight up thru the ceiling thru the roof...kinda waiting til I reroofed my house so I can flash it properly.
> 
> Any other insights you have is welcomed and appreciated
> 
> ...



with more pipe will help
and make sure you have a rise in that 3 foot horizantal run.


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## mtalea (Nov 16, 2006)

ok I will make sure the horizontal is pitched up.should I but more pipe for the outside vertical run?

and how do I support the pipe when going up so high?


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## hearthtools (Nov 16, 2006)

mtalea said:
			
		

> ok I will make sure the horizontal is pitched up.should I but more pipe for the outside vertical run?
> 
> and how do I support the pipe when going up so high?



Like i said the MORE PIPE the better

You can used a T bracked on the eve or some 1/2" metal EMT x 2 and flaten the ends and screw to the roof and to the pipe
like this.
http://www.hearthtools.com/install/iccpipe.jpg


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## stoveguy2esw (Sep 1, 2007)

bfraymond said:
			
		

> homefire said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



for smoke to get back there you have to have airflow through there , otherwise it wouldnt venture there. any air leak will do it under the right circumstances.the  more negative pressure buildup in the home , the more likely it will do so provided there is a leak large enough to allow the negative pressure from the house to pull it away from the draft of the chimney. with a "blown unit" (positive draft unit where air is forced into rather than pulled through the burn chamber) overpressure can do it as well. overpressure can come from either too much combustion air in , or too weak a draft leaving. this can force the smoke to find another outlet (again a small leak in the feed system can cause it) usually though you will detect an odor of smoke while running. while im not familiar with this brand , we at ESW used to build a model that was similar (although it was a dual auger feed system) areas to check for the leak are , the hopper lid gasket (you already did that , also the bottom of the auger shaft where it mates to the motor, and a biggie, the seams where the hopper (bin) which should have been made of several pieces of sheet steel that are mated together we seal our seams with silicone to prevent leakage , other comapnies probably have their own way of doing it , so silicone may or may not be what was used for your unit. bottom line though, if the feed system is sealed , its like putting a cork in a bottle , no airflow to pull the smoke back there.


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## hearthtools (Sep 1, 2007)

Pellet master is a True bottom feed systems

with the auger coming up from the bottom in an angle
If the hopper is not sealed Some smoke will go into the hopper.

it is also a Positive Combustion air system. Pushing Combustion air into the burn pot and into the venturi tube in the Flue.
NO NEGATIVE DRAFT BLOWER.

Also if the Ash pan or the door gasket leaks you will get smell also.
see cutawy here
Pellet master page


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## stoveguy2esw (Sep 1, 2007)

that is a pretty neat system , first ive seen of it exactly like that , i was just applying what i know about our old positive draft stove we used to make (25-pfs) seemed similar enough that some of the principals would hold. looking back im not sure how this thread popped back up but im glad it did , interesting stove. looks like you know it pretty darn well too rod. i enjoyed reading the article that was linked in with the pictures.

mike  ESW


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## hearthtools (Sep 1, 2007)

Your had fun reading my trouble shooting page
A lot of people like to have fun with my typo's and misspelled words.


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## Cath (Sep 1, 2007)

stoveguy2esw said:
			
		

> ... looking back im not sure how this thread popped back up but im glad it did , interesting stove. ...



Stoveguy2esw,
I may be responsible for this thread re-surfacing.  Check out the post/thread (below) from a new member that was interested in this stove.  I did a search and found this thread for him.  It doesn't look like he's posted here so I'm wondering if simply linking the old thread to the new one was enough to make it pop up.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/8860/

I'm sure the new member would appreciate any feedback on whether this would be a good purchase for the price.  If I were him I'd be wondering about parts availability.
~Cath


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## Ashamatash (Sep 1, 2007)

Cath,

Thank you very much...I appreciate you re-surfacing this thread. If anyone has more info that could help me make a good decision I would appreciate it.

Thanks,
Scott


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## hearthtools (Sep 1, 2007)

I posted answers in the other thread.


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## bfraymond (Oct 2, 2007)

Looking for a new stove to replace my PM 3000. Any thoughts, recommendations. I don't fell that this stove is running effectiently enough. I don't know if it is the stove in particular or the make. I am located around Albany, NY.

Thanks,
Brent


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## hearthtools (Oct 2, 2007)

The P3000 Titain was a smaller model of the Pellet masters at 32,000 BTU
I was not a big fan of it because of the Blower motors packed into a small area but we have a lot of them still running in this area.


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## bfraymond (Oct 12, 2007)

Rod, I have a question that you might be able to help me with. I just thoroughly cleaned my stove, vacuumed it out, used an air compressor to blow any dust out of hard to reach places, ect. I fired it up to days ago and i have a good flame, but it is not putting off hot air, just warm. Is there anything you can think of that would be leading to this? The thin fire bricks that were in there did break, what that cause this? Doesn't seem like it should but I would appreciate any advice you have to get this PM 3000 running at full bore.

Thanks,
Brent


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## hearthtools (Oct 12, 2007)

bfraymond said:
			
		

> Rod, I have a question that you might be able to help me with. I just thoroughly cleaned my stove, vacuumed it out, used an air compressor to blow any dust out of hard to reach places, ect. I fired it up to days ago and i have a good flame, but it is not putting off hot air, just warm. Is there anything you can think of that would be leading to this? The thin fire bricks that were in there did break, what that cause this? Doesn't seem like it should but I would appreciate any advice you have to get this PM 3000 running at full bore.
> 
> Thanks,
> Brent



I think I need a little more info
You say not putting much hot air.
Do you mean the blower is running slow?
If it the blower then you might have turned down the Rehostat for the low blower speed down when you where cleaning.

or the Pellet feed is running low?
If so check the thermostat connection. If you dont have a stat make sure the two small stat wires at the back of the stove are Jump together.

If all that is good and it is staying in Keepfire mode(low fire) check the Over heat sensor that trips the same circuit as the thermostat to put it in keep fire.

Most of the trouble shooting on my website will help figure this out by checking feed times and such.

http://www.hearthtools.com/pellet/service_tips_and_trouble_shootin.htm


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## bfraymond (Oct 13, 2007)

hearthtools said:
			
		

> bfraymond said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Sorry, I misspoke. Air just doesn't seem to be hot enough. The quantity of air is ok, and the blower is fine. The feed rate seems to be ok too.

Brent


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## hearthtools (Oct 13, 2007)

Not sure
Time your feed rate ON high with the Thermostat calling for heat or the wires together.
See if you are getting around 15 to 17 seconds of feed every 3 seconds. 
This will give you 3.5 to  4.5 #'s  per hour of fuel depending on size of pellets.

If you are feeding at that rate and it still feels cool then it must be the BTU per pound of pellets are low.


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## bfraymond (Jan 23, 2008)

Getting an uneven burn. Looking at the stove the left side of the pot is burning correctly and right side is not burning all the way down, causing unburned pellets to fall into collection bin. The bin is filling way to quickly with unburned pellets. Because of this only warm is being circulated into room. Can't turn on higher setting as this would only compound the problem. 

Any thoughts? All are appreciated.

Brent


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## hearthtools (Jan 23, 2008)

Unburned pellets in the pellet master is from Incomplete combustion
Air intake screen on the blower is dirty
Bad blower
Bocked flue
Air slits in the burn pot need to be cleared
Air tube to the burn pot on set
see the http://www.hearthtools.com/pellet/service_tips_and_trouble_shootin.htm


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## bfraymond (Feb 1, 2008)

hearthtools said:
			
		

> Unburned pellets in the pellet master is from Incomplete combustion
> Air intake screen on the blower is dirty
> Bad blower
> Bocked flue
> ...



Thanks Rod. It appeared to be the intake screen was dirty. Thanks for your assistance. You've been an help as I get to know this stove.

Brent


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