# Inserts with blowers - plug 'em in or direct wire?



## 3dogsrule (Oct 26, 2009)

Still living in my dream world where everything works out perfectly...  The POS Heatilator A42 I've got has blowers on it, which my builder hardwired in and is controlled with a wall switch.  Whatever insert I'll get will have a blower.  So, before I cover up the A42's blower with a hearth, I was *hoping* we could disconnect the wiring to the blower and hardwire in the insert's blower into the same switch.  Is that possible, does it depend on the insert's blower, or will I likely have to live with a cord running across my floor to the nearest outlet?

Karen


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## Fsappo (Oct 26, 2009)

Not sure exactly how he does it, but in a case like that my Installer will for about $100 (35 for parts and 65 for an hours labor) hard wire that in so there are no exposed wires


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## 3dogsrule (Oct 26, 2009)

It'd be worth it, both for appearances and for safety (I've got chew-happy dogs!).  Just glad to know the possibility exists...

Karen


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## slayer7 (Oct 26, 2009)

I'd imagine even an insert blower with a plug could be hard-wired by just cutting the plug off and splicing the wires in. That's what I would do if I was lucky enough to have that setup.


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## Mandoo (Oct 26, 2009)

3dogsrule said:
			
		

> Still living in my dream world where everything works out perfectly...  The POS Heatilator A42 I've got has blowers on it, which my builder hardwired in and is controlled with a wall switch.  Whatever insert I'll get will have a blower.  So, before I cover up the A42's blower with a hearth, I was *hoping* we could disconnect the wiring to the blower and hardwire in the insert's blower into the same switch.  Is that possible, does it depend on the insert's blower, or will I likely have to live with a cord running across my floor to the nearest outlet?
> 
> Karen



If the other blowers are going to be abandoned then yes very easy. I would find the line coming from the wall switch to the blowers and find a good spot for a metal J-box. Then I would take the cord out of the Insert and replace it with an Armored whip available at Home Depot electric/ lighting supply area.

By doing this you will never have to worry about a rubber cord behind or under the insert getting smashed/pinched when pulled out and of course would help with the hot factor. If your blower is thermostat controlled on the insert you have an override built in with the wall switch.

All of the above ideas are general electrical knowledge. Someone may have an issue with the Insert/heat part that I know nothing about.

BTW I'm talking about all of this hidden within the hearth like your existing wiring is now.


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## Highbeam (Oct 26, 2009)

Electrical rules are funny. You are dealing with a device UL listed and approved with a plug in cord. The device is not portable really but not permanently attached either. The wire/cord would be loose vs. a stapled down wire so the J-box would need to be able to hold onto the cord and prevent pullout. 

Honestly if it were me I would install the j-box like mentioned above and equip it with a plug in so that the insert can be plugged in to the switched outlet. This allows you to skip the UL issues and also allows you to remove the blower assembly to clean it without having to unfasten the wire nuts. 

This is the same reason that microwaves are not hard wired. Keep the plug.


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## oconnor (Oct 26, 2009)

Highbeam said:
			
		

> Electrical rules are funny. You are dealing with a device UL listed and approved with a plug in cord. The device is not portable really but not permanently attached either. The wire/cord would be loose vs. a stapled down wire so the J-box would need to be able to hold onto the cord and prevent pullout.
> 
> Honestly if it were me I would install the j-box like mentioned above and equip it with a plug in so that the insert can be plugged in to the switched outlet. This allows you to skip the UL issues and also allows you to remove the blower assembly to clean it without having to unfasten the wire nuts.
> 
> This is the same reason that microwaves are not hard wired. Keep the plug.



Agree.  Thing to keep in mind is that where you run your wire may not (likely will not) have been temp tested to ensure that it is within the temp range of the wire you use.  Most household wire will take 90*C, and in fact the plug that came with my insert is rated to 90*C.  Depending on the route taken behind or below the insert, you could exceed that. I just have to touch the stove 1 inch back from the plug and burn my fingers, but the plug won't reach that area given it's construction.

Play safe


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## Highbeam (Oct 26, 2009)

FYI 90 degrees celsius is 194 degrees F which is really dang hot. Immediate burns if you touch it, water boils at 212 F so you wouldn't want to put your hootus anywhere near 90degrees C. By hootus I mean finger or anything else you cherish.

The trick will be taking the surface mounted blower cord and somehow slipping it behind the surround to wherever the plug is. Usually the wire and plug is external.


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## maverick06 (Oct 27, 2009)

Well the obvious benefit to a plug in blower setup is that if the power is out you can power the blower with a generator or inverter. My stove is on my first level. The power for the blower goes down to the basement and into a junction box (with metal conduit) then that junction box has a power cord coming out of it. There is an outlet right next to that so I can just plug it into house power or an inverter. works great


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## SteveT (Oct 27, 2009)

Another reason for using a plug instead of hard wire is that you can then use a plug-in rheostat for blower speed control. Your blower may have it built in, but at least on the Hearthstone Clydesdale it is done with a separate rheostat.


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## 3dogsrule (Oct 27, 2009)

Good thought, Maverick, about the generator, but I've got it set up to where I just flip some breakers and plug my generator into the house, so I'd be okay there.  However, the dealer didn't seem too keen on taking a plug-in appliance and direct wiring it.  So, I guess the best we might can do is when we build the hearth to wire in an outlet over to the side of the hearth.  The granite I have is longer than the specs require for my hearth so I don't think heat should be an issue (we'll be sure before we seal it all up), but if I can get an outlet off to the less seen side of the hearth instead of having a cord go along a light colored wall and plugging in, I think it'll both look better and be safer for the doggies to not chew on.

[sigh]

Karen


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