# Stove pipe penetrating roof exactly at the ridge, is it OK?



## Blinkyjoe (Jan 15, 2010)

Hello to the collective. My woodstove in my (under-construction) house will sit centered directly below a 30 inch glulam ridge beam. The roof overhang on the gable end is two feet. So I know I have to route the stovepipe out the wall and up the outside of the house, but do I have to dogleg the stove pipe or can it poke out right at the roof ridge? Is there special flashing for such a penetration? BTW, I'm looking at getting a blaze king princess 1006 catalytic.
Much thanks.


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## LLigetfa (Jan 15, 2010)

Blinkyjoe said:
			
		

> I know I have to route the stovepipe out the wall and up the outside of the house..


Why?  Why can you not stay inside and offset to miss the beam?  My RSF is dead centre on my ell and I offset the flue with 15 degree elbows.


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## dougand3 (Jan 15, 2010)

I'd want chimney exit on a flat part of roof, say 2 ft below peak, or so. Bent flashing sounds real leak prone. May be they make a special flashing for that - I dunno. If you want totally straight stove pipe and chimney - you could move stove 2 feet off peak. A chimney popping up in the middle of the ridge line? Think it would look VERY different.


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## Blinkyjoe (Jan 15, 2010)

Inferno-
Yeah, the dogleg sounds like an obvious solution. Can a cleaning brush make a 15 degree bend? How often do you clean your chimney?
Thanks!


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## LLigetfa (Jan 15, 2010)

My brush and rods have no problems going around the 15 degree bend.  In my former home I had a 45 degree offset and the brush and rods got around that too.  With the wood I burn and with a warm inside chimney I clean the flue about once every 5 or 10 years.


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## DAKSY (Jan 15, 2010)

Blinkyjoe said:
			
		

> Hello to the collective. My woodstove in my (under-construction) house will sit centered directly below a 30 inch glulam ridge beam. The roof overhang on the gable end is two feet. So I know I have to route the stovepipe out the wall and up the outside of the house, but do I have to dogleg the stove pipe or can it poke out right at the roof ridge? Is there special flashing for such a penetration? BTW, I'm looking at getting a blaze king princess 1006 catalytic.
> Much thanks.



There is a specially made ridge flashing you can use, & this flashing is probably
LESS prone to leaking than one farther down the roof, as there's
nowhere for the water to seep underneath it from the upper side.
The MAIN obstacle is framing in the "box" in the ridge without compromising the
integrity of the ridge beam.
Any good framer should be able to do it, is it folows the same techniques as framing 
a staircase opening thru a floor...
OTOH, offsets won't hurt you either, & the install is easier at the roof penetration.


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## SolarAndWood (Jan 15, 2010)

I would keep the pipe in the house.  If you look at the offset charts for both the double wall stove pipe and the chimney section, you will see you have a lot of flexibility while still maintaining the UL rating for the system.  I added a chase with a ladder in my house design adjacent to the pipe so that I can easily get to the top of the stack that goes right through the ridge.  If you don't like the look of the penetration, box it out so it looks like a traditional chimney and use flat roof flashing.

If you go with the BK and burn dry wood, you aren't going to spend much time cleaning the chimney.


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## John_M (Jan 15, 2010)

Blinky, A couple of comments: 1) Assuming the 30" glulam beam is a structural member and not just cosmetic, I would not even think of compromising its integrity. Even a good framer, if you can find one, should have his/her modifications approved by a structural engineer; 2) My stove was installed in September and I wanted the chimney to exit the roof directly through the ridge. My roof is engineered with trusses 16"oc so no offsets were necessary. Structural integrity was not an issue. A trusted friend, who is also an excellent roofer, told me that the best way to rainproof a ridge penetration with a chimney is to build a short chase around the chimney. Installing flashing around a chase is a more sure-fire and better looking way make the installation rainproof. This required a custom chase top of stainless steel ($225 +/-) which was simple enough. He accomplished all the exterior work in one long day and did a truly excellent job. 

Knowing what I now know, if I had to choose between compromising the integrity of the glulam beam or using 15* offsets and penetrating the roof on the sloped flat part, I would choose the offsets. 

So far my installation has been subjected to heavy rain with 45 mph winds and not a drop of water has penetrated anywhere. 

These are my opinions based on personal experience. Hope I have helped a little. 

Best, 

John_M


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## Blinkyjoe (Jan 15, 2010)

Thanks to everyone, this is great info!


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