# Pellet stove venting with Vinyl Siding



## vegiepower (Dec 17, 2008)

Finally got a pellet stove. I am going to direct vent with some new venting that allows the combustible air to flow outside of the exhaust venting and containted all in one pipeing.  Made by Selkirk and looks slick.  So I am going to cut a hole in my basement framing and pop out through the vinyl siding. The venting kit comes with a round thimble.  Any ideas on what to do with the siding?  
1) Do I trim it in a square, silicone the thimble, and buy J-trim?
2) Do I buy a square piece of metal and cut the siding, silicone and buy J-trim?
3) Can I just slap the thimble over the siding and silicone it to prevent leakage?

With the outside air surrounding the exhaust venting....the pipe is very cool to touch.

I would appreciate your thoughts.

Thanks
Torie


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## crausch (Dec 17, 2008)

Check the pics from this thread:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/29735/#312979

The first pic shows how a member terminated horizontally and further down in the post is a pic where a member came out into a 'T' and went vertical. The second picture with the vertical install shows a real good shot of how to cut your siding and install thimble.


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## rona (Dec 17, 2008)

make sure you keep the exhaust outlet 24'' away from your house. The wind swirls the soot around and by spring you have a mess. I along with several others have had this problem and cleaning soot of your siding isn't as easy as people say.


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## vegiepower (Dec 17, 2008)

Thanks for the links.  That is definetely the ticket!

I have questions about cold air return from my furnace in proximity to my stove...but will search the forum first


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## drizler (Dec 18, 2008)

Do be very careful cutting that plastic siding, especially when its cold out.    Use a hair dryer and get it nice and warm before you cut it so it doesn't split.   That thimbal kit sizes it up nicely and is its own template while at the same time gives you lots of slop factor.   Just watch out for your clearances to the studs and combustible  goodies in the wall as well as electrical wiring hidden in there.


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## vegiepower (Dec 18, 2008)

That's a good idea as it is -20 at the moment. 

So are you all recommending that I find some other flashing type material in addition to my circular thimble?


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## RPK1 (Dec 18, 2008)

Codebum's pix show the correct installation.  Get a vinyl siding removal tool.  Home Depot should have one 2-3$.  Remove the siding, cut some small exploratory holes if you are not sure of wiring etc.  You can always patch the hole and find another spot without siding problems.  Install the through the wall pipe adapter then J-channel and siding.  It is the best way. 

RPK1


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## drizler (Dec 18, 2008)

I Never knew thay had a special tool for handling that stuff, gotta get me one.     I never put any additional flashing on mine, just the kit and a smear of sealant around the outer perimeter  of the box.   I did mine at 20 F , with what you have for weather going on there your time is better spent wrapped around a hot toddy.   Come to think of it your mass of Arctic happiness will be visiting me in a couple days.    You can keep it if you like.   I wouldn't work out in that stuff without having the trusty 35K BTU coleman radiant heater sitting behind me.    It gets to be a hassle though when your clothes keep catching on fire.


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## swimman (Dec 18, 2008)

I had a slow window leak from a recent storm and from previous experience, I knew the window flashing was probably not installed correctly.  I picked up the siding removal tool from HD this past weekend and it worked ok but not great.  I paid just under $4 and it's in the vinyl siding section.  

Here's a link to a similar model as the one at HD - http://cgi.ebay.com/MALCO-SRT1-Side...ptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116


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## crausch (Dec 18, 2008)

Vegiepower... I took a look at the Selkirk vent you mentioned your using. I think its called "Direct-Temp". Your right, it looks slick. I wish I had used that. I currently don't use an OAK because I don't like the looks of the additional flex pipe that would have to run up a wall to get to air. I don't want to bust another hole through the wall either. The Direct-Temp pipe would have eliminated both those concerns for me. Is it very expensive?


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## vegiepower (Dec 18, 2008)

Thanks again for all your thoughts. I spent the day yesterday building a base for it to sit on.  When I proudly showed it to my wife she said "why don't we just put tile right on the cement floor." 

The Direct Temp Up and Out Kit was $398 Canadian.  A four foot chunk of black was $80...so it seemed reasonable to me.

Vegiepower


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## crausch (Dec 18, 2008)

I have my stove sitting on ceramic tile that I placed on the cement floor. Basically it gives me about a 8' x 14' hearth because I did an entire portion of the room. If I don't keep the stove running, the tile get pretty cold on your feet.

The price for the pipe seems reasonable for what it is.


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## krooser (Dec 19, 2008)

I have the same Selkirk vent... I simply cut a circle for the vent and siliconed the thimble... works great. I''ll snap a pic on Saturday...


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## vegiepower (Dec 20, 2008)

That'd be great. Thanks


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## krooser (Dec 20, 2008)

Here's a pic from my "leaf blower" post... I'll get an inside shot today.


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## flashbang (Dec 20, 2008)

I used a 1 inch piece of plywood behind the outside plate, cut the siding and used j-channel siding trim. Most installations I have seen the outside plate is directly screwed to the siding and gobbed up with silicone. 

I used 1 inch ply because I had it, but 3/4 plywood will work too. 
I cut four strips and siliconed them to the back of the thimble then predrilled the holes through the plywood and applied silicone the plywood face to the building and used four deck mate screws. 

See my pics 
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/23995/


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## krooser (Dec 20, 2008)

flashbang said:
			
		

> I used a 1 inch piece of plywood behind the outside plate, cut the siding and used j-channel siding trim. Most installations I have seen the outside plate is directly screwed to the siding and gobbed up with silicone.
> 
> I used 1 inch ply because I had it, but 3/4 plywood will work too.
> I cut four strips and siliconed them to the back of the thimble then predrilled the holes through the plywood and applied silicone the plywood face to the building and used four deck mate screws.
> ...


I gobbed mine up with latex caulk...hahaha


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## vegiepower (Dec 20, 2008)

What's the leaf blower for?  

So you cut the siding in a circle and fit the thimble in and siliconed it? Hmmm. I went to Home Depot and they didn't carry j-trim in my color...unfortunetely..


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## mnkywrnch (Dec 20, 2008)

thats how he cleans his stove and venting.


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## vegiepower (Dec 20, 2008)

lol

Flashbang, Was your thimble square?  Mine is circular which is part of my dilemna.  It is not in a really visible part of the house so I may just "make it work".

Vegiepower


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