# Ceramic Fiber Board (Englander 30-NC)



## blackls1z (Oct 24, 2013)

Hey All,
I have a quick question.  I have an englander 30NC and one of the ceramic fiber boards that sits on top of the burner tubes busted.  I went to the englander site and just about fell over when I saw they want over $60 for just one board (has 2).  I did a search on ebay and they do have 1/2" ceramic fiber boards (36"x24") rated to 2300 degrees F for the same price.  My question is - would this work in 30NC?


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## brenndatomu (Oct 24, 2013)

In a word...yup. Just cut to fit. I bought some of that last year, works good


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## midwestcoast (Oct 24, 2013)

You'll get more views & responses in the Hearth Room.  I woodn't be afraid to use a generic piece as a baffle if it was the same thickness. The baffle on my Regency is cut so the 2 pieces interlock, but that woodn't be hard to duplicate either.
 Does Englander have a warranty on the baffles?


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## Buckeye 2012 (Oct 25, 2013)

My Buck ran me 50 for both I thought that was high.  Good lord.


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## pen (Oct 25, 2013)

I've heard of others having success with the ebay material.  Heck, I had a buddy who in a pinch used hardibacker to cover a hole in his baffle board and it would last several months before giving out.  

Moving this thread over to the hearth room.


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## SnapCracklePop (Oct 25, 2013)

One of mine cracked in two. I had some aluminum tape left over from a liner install. Used that to tape it back together. Been fine ever since.


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## lorbs21 (Jan 8, 2014)

Hello I just joined this forum. I also have a England 30 NC. Wondering I that eBay ceramic board worked? If u bought it? I Need to replace mine. Also if anyone knows if it is cheaper anywhere else? Thanks guys


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## brenndatomu (Jan 8, 2014)

Mine is working perfectly over a year later. Ebay was the cheapest I could find. Something like $68 for 2'x3'x1" delivered...


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## Highbeam (Jan 8, 2014)

Isn't it odd that you would be expected to pay 120$, or nearly 15%, of the total price of a new stove for a consumable part?


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## CenterTree (Jan 8, 2014)

Highbeam said:


> Isn't it odd that you would be expected to pay 120$, or nearly 15%, of the total price of a new stove for a consumable part?


Is the board really "consumable"?  Is it a part that is expected to wear out with time?    Or so they only need replaced when they get broken / cracked from being bumped etc.???


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## Hoozie (Jan 8, 2014)

brenndatomu said:


> Something like $68 for 2'x3'x1" delivered...


1" thick?  Isn't that a bit too thick?  Notice any differences with how it burns?




Highbeam said:


> Isn't it odd that you would be expected to pay 120$, or nearly 15%, of the total price of a new stove for a consumable part?



Yea, it kinda is   One would think the steel/machining/stamping/welding/assembly would cost significantly more than two off the shelf baffle boards.

My BIL is going through something similar with his kitchen remodel right now.  The microwave they like is ~$250.  The stamped metal trim to go around the edges?  ~$230


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## brenndatomu (Jan 9, 2014)

Well, I used mine for an add on mod situation, so 1" was perfect. Depending what you are gonna use it for, 1/2" is probably better. lil cheaper too. And yes, my mod works well, burns much cleaner, but I had no baffle at all before, so...


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## pen (Jan 9, 2014)

For a 1000 dollar stove that heats as well as many stoves 3x the price,,,, and the fact that my baffles are 5 or 6 years old and are still fully in tact, and I don't have a cat to replace,,,,, it's not a big deal when I finally need to get a new set.

Too boot, I've yet to see a set fail from use, only from getting whacked with something.

For me, I'd buy the factory ones as I've had such good luck with them it is worth it to me.  However, if I were short on cash, or had someone in the household using the stove who wasn't careful to avoid whacking into the boards,  I wouldn't hesitate to try the ebay product as I have yet to hear of someone coming back and reporting an issue.

pen


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## PLAYS WITH FIRE (Jan 9, 2014)

I bought the factory ones and did not mind paying the price. I bought the overhaul kit or whatever it was called. They came cut exactly the same as the old or they were about .25" too narrow. These, and I don't remember if the old did this, but they bow up like a banana...my Buck does not do this. I think next time I will buy what we outsourced for a friends stove.


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## Highbeam (Jan 9, 2014)

pen said:


> Too boot, I've yet to see a set fail from use, only from getting whacked with something.


 
Yes, and this is the standard across all brands using exposed soft boards. The boards don't fail from just setting there but it must be pointed out that these very soft boards are easily damaged by even the most careful burners so it is normal to need replacement after years go buy. Preventable.

Absolutely not the same as replacing a cat element. Those are designed for a limited life cycle and are supposed to be replaced.

The only problem is the high cost of the boards for such a simple chunk of stock material. Anybody looking for a business opportunity?


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## Seasoned Oak (Jan 9, 2014)

blackls1z said:


> Hey All,
> I have a quick question.  I have an englander 30NC and one of the ceramic fiber boards that sits on top of the burner tubes busted.  I went to the englander site and just about fell over when I saw they want over $60 for just one board (has 2).  I did a search on ebay and they do have 1/2" ceramic fiber boards (36"x24") rated to 2300 degrees F for the same price.  My question is - would this work in 30NC?


YEa and you would think for the price they could cut them the right size and not make it necessary for people to insert steel rods in their stoves to make up for loose boards.


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## BobUrban (Jan 9, 2014)

I have thought of(and may still do it) cutting out an1/8 or 1/16" piece of stainless plate and put it between the boards and tubes.  This way I would likely never have an issue as long as the stainless could take the heat.


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## Seasoned Oak (Jan 9, 2014)

BobUrban said:


> I have thought of(and may still do it) cutting out an1/8 or 1/16" piece of stainless plate and put it between the boards and tubes.  This way I would likely never have an issue as long as the stainless could take the heat.


I put mine on the side so the weight dont become a factor as the tubes heat up,but i dont see the need to use stainless,the whole rest of the stove is plain steel.


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## pen (Jan 9, 2014)

Seasoned Oak said:


> YEa and you would think for the price they could cut them the right size and not make it necessary for people to insert steel rods in their stoves to make up for loose boards.



I have done this to the stove, however, I often think it is akin to





I think observing much of a difference is highly surprising.  When you consider the testing these things go through to be sure they burn clean, if the company figured that gap would make or break them, then I'm certain they would have addressed it just to be sure they wouldn't fail due to something so silly.


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## Highbeam (Jan 9, 2014)

Seasoned Oak said:


> YEa and you would think for the price they could cut them the right size and not make it necessary for people to insert steel rods in their stoves to make up for loose boards.


 
I used a pair of welding rods on each side to take up the gap. I am able to witness the change in clearance as the stove heats up. When the stove is cold I have a pretty big gap between the boards but when it is hot, the gap closes up to zero. Whether the boards expand or the stove "hugs" the boards, there is a clearance that must be maintained. Perhaps the loose fit is intentional. Mike has never told us. Surely there is a desired looseness for the sake of mass production but it does seem excessive.


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## BobUrban (Jan 9, 2014)

↑
****(previous post)*****I have thought of(and may still do it) cutting out an1/8 or 1/16" piece of stainless plate and put it between the boards and tubes. This way I would likely never have an issue as long as the stainless could take the heat.
Click to expand...*****

Seasoned Oak_ Minister of Fire said:_
I put mine on the side so the weight dont become a factor as the tubes heat up,but i dont see the need to use stainless,the whole rest of the stove is plain steel.


I am not talking about the gap - that was filled before the stove was ever lit during install.  I am talking about a steel plate(stainless) and 1/8 or 1/16"thick that is the size of both fir boards that they sit on top of. This would increase the thickness minimally while protecting the boards with a poker/split toss proof shield.  I imagine this would also increase the efficiency a touch through reflectivity and slightly more insulation. The up side is I have access to the material, plas cutter and all the things needed to make it for essentially free - the downside is it ain't happening until spring unless I brake a board.


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## Seasoned Oak (Jan 9, 2014)

pen said:


> [I have done this to the stove, however,
> I think observing much of a difference is highly surprising.]



My findings are pretty stark .In the few years i have the stove in this location. I have never been able to burn the stove on minimum air setting and certainly not get a 600-700 degree stovetop doing it. I was lucky to get to 500 before even with more air.  Additionally i am using the same wood. Mostly pine. I think it corrected a weak draft issue as i have the 30s flue pipe connected to a 12" masonry chimney ,a bit oversized to say the least[/quote]


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## lorbs21 (Jan 17, 2014)

Hey guys I'm one step away from purchasing the ceramic fiber board off of the guy on eBay. They recommend the 1" thick 1800 degree one. The 30nc came 1/2" thick!  What are your thoughts???? Will the 1"thick fit? Anyone know the length and width to cut these? Mine are pretty much non existent! Thanks I'd appreciate some help


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## BobUrban (Jan 17, 2014)

if/when this ever occurs and I need to replace or upgrade mine I would consider the thicker ones just from a durability stand point and I believe someone doubled up on boards in their 30 here with good results but you will have to use the search to find it.  As far as size just use a tape and cut to fit.  I would strongly consider cutting it to fit in one piece eliminating the gap or at least making the center cut on a bias so the line overlaps.


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## blades (Jan 17, 2014)

BobUrban said:


> if/when this ever occurs and I need to replace or upgrade mine I would consider the thicker ones just from a durability stand point and I believe someone doubled up on boards in their 30 here with good results but you will have to use the search to find it.  As far as size just use a tape and cut to fit.  I would strongly consider cutting it to fit in one piece eliminating the gap or at least making the center cut on a bias so the line overlaps.


 Need 2 piece to fit it stuff dosen't flex


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## blades (Jan 17, 2014)

lorbs21 said:


> Hey guys I'm one step away from purchasing the ceramic fiber board off of the guy on eBay. They recommend the 1" thick 1800 degree one. The 30nc came 1/2" thick!  What are your thoughts???? Will the 1"thick fit? Anyone know the length and width to cut these? Mine are pretty much non existent! Thanks I'd appreciate some help


 Need the 2300 deg stuff.


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## blades (Jan 17, 2014)

To all check in your location if you have a firm that builds / repairs / services heat treat furnaces and kilns. Likely have what you need. Price won't be any cheaper but avoiding the crazy shipping prices makes it that way.  And doesn't have to be  of ceramic composition that is just one kind as long as it will maintain its integrity at 2300 degs.  I forget the name of the stuff I got been working fine in another stove for 6 years. The sheet I purchased was minimum size they would sell, fixed the one stove have enough yet to do the NC30. At the time it was under $75.


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## Seasoned Oak (Jan 17, 2014)

You will be pinching off the space between the board and the stove top by 1/2 "   Times the with of the stove about 10 sq in. Could affect the stove performance. Aftermarket boards are fine but i think id go with the 1/2 in ones.


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## brenndatomu (Jan 17, 2014)

The 1800* stuff has been working well for me, over a year now, no sign of degradation. I would stick with the 1/2" thick stuff for most stove baffles, unless you know for a _fact_ that you have a ton of room between the baffle and the stove top, but most do not. That's just asking for smoke roll out problems during loading!


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## lorbs21 (Jan 18, 2014)

I already have back puffing due to a poor draft. eBay says that their ceramic fiber board is much softer than englander stoves product. That is why they recommend the 1" thickness one.  I think I will get the 1/2" bc I am nervousr that I already have back puffing but I am not sure either the 1800 or 2300 degree one?


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## brenndatomu (Jan 18, 2014)

It's not likely that you are gonna hurt a 1800* board. Most of the time it is seeing 1200* or so, max. Like I said, I've been burnin the stuff outta mine goin on over a year now, no change. It may be softer than the original, but the only way you are gonna hurt it is to physically hit it with wood or tools. If you want, they make a hardener that can be "painted" on to make the board more resistant to damage, I thought it was too expensive to mess with it though.
Don't forget, you are getting a piece that is big enough to make 2-3 baffles for your stove, depending on it's size/shape. Take your time, lay it out before you cut it, to make sure to maximize what you get out of the piece you get.


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## PLAYS WITH FIRE (Jan 18, 2014)

It's pretty good stuff. My friends have been using it for over a month and looks like they just put it in. Englander makes awesome products and I know they don't make the fiber board. The replacement boards for my parents bowed up like a banana. The stuff from ebay does not, just my experience.


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## lorbs21 (Jan 18, 2014)

PLAYS WITH FIRE said:


> It's pretty good stuff. My friends have been using it for over a month and looks like they just put it in. Englander makes awesome products and I know they don't make the fiber board. The replacement boards for my parents bowed up like a banana. The stuff from ebay does not, just my experience.


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## lorbs21 (Jan 18, 2014)

Thanks guys for all ur help! I really appreciate it. Now time to purchase the fiber boards!


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## stoveguy2esw (Jan 18, 2014)

do not get the 1 inch thick stuff, there's a baffle welded in above the fiberboards  closing that space down IS going to restrict draft and will cause problems with performance.


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## Chuck Pearson (Jan 19, 2015)

BobUrban said:


> I have thought of(and may still do it) cutting out an1/8 or 1/16" piece of stainless plate and put it between the boards and tubes.  This way I would likely never have an issue as long as the stainless could take the heat.



I would expect it to warp significantly. There is a reason the baffles are made of ceramic.


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## Seasoned Oak (Jan 19, 2015)

Chuck Pearson said:


> I would expect it to warp significantly. There is a reason the baffles are made of ceramic.


The baffle boards also glow cherry red. They may reburn some wood gas that has escaped over thetop of them before it goes up the flue. I would not mess with design. Its not that hard to avoid hitting the board. the tubes protect it to some extent.


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## Huntindog1 (Jan 19, 2015)

Some stoves put a ceramic blanket of insulation on top of the baffle board to help keep the heat up around the tubes in the top of the stove where the secondary burn happens
.
Not sure why Englander didnt do that. Its the high heat levels maintained in the firebox that increases efficiency. Some tube stoves have improved
EPA Test results might be how they insulate the firebox.


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## mopar440_6 (Jan 19, 2015)

For future reference, I found this out the hard way after breaking both of the baffles in my NC-30, the baffle boards for a QuadraFire 5700 are very close to the same dimensions as the ESW baffles. The Quad baffles were approximately 1/16" wider per board (1/8" total) and the length was about 5/8" longer. Because of the extra room on the width of the stove, I did not trim the width down on the baffles. After trimming the extra 5/8" off the length of the baffles they fit perfectly. I was able to get the pair of baffles from the local QuadraFire dealer for about $100. Just another option for anyone in a pinch or wanting to save on shipping over the ESW baffles.


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## Highbeam (Jan 19, 2015)

mopar440_6 said:


> For future reference, I found this out the hard way after breaking both of the baffles in my NC-30, the baffle boards for a QuadraFire 5700 are very close to the same dimensions as the ESW baffles. The Quad baffles were approximately 1/16" wider per board (1/8" total) and the length was about 5/8" longer. Because of the extra room on the width of the stove, I did not trim the width down on the baffles. After trimming the extra 5/8" off the length of the baffles they fit perfectly. I was able to get the pair of baffles from the local QuadraFire dealer for about $100. Just another option for anyone in a pinch or wanting to save on shipping over the ESW baffles.



Now that's a great post. Thank you for the information.


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## begreen (Jan 19, 2015)

This thread has good info on board source alternatives.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...-2-ceramic-fiber-board-for-baffles-etc.72354/


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## BCC_Burner (Jan 19, 2015)

My theory is that the gap between the two boards in the NC-30 is intentional.  With that bit of a gap, when you bump the top of the stove during loading, the boards have room to move, reducing the likelihood of breakage.  When you jam a steel rod in there and lock them firmly in place, they become a lot more fragile, as they have nowhere to go when they're bumped.  I thought this through extensively before deciding against adding a piece of threaded rod.  

I'm happy with the factory performance and emissions ratings, but by all means, jam that threaded rod in there, you'll help Englander sell more replacement baffles.


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## begreen (Jan 19, 2015)

Not likely to be an issue as long as one loads the stove properly and loads wood below the tubes instead of up against them.


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## BobUrban (Jan 19, 2015)

Chuck Pearson said:


> New
> BobUrban said:
> ↑
> I have thought of(and may still do it) cutting out an1/8 or 1/16" piece of stainless plate and put it between the boards and tubes.  This way I would likely never have an issue as long as the stainless could take the heat.Click to expand...
> I would expect it to warp significantly. There is a reason the baffles are made of ceramic.



First attempt with a full sheet of stainless was an epic fail with aforementioned warpage - second go round seen here has been burning 24/7 since November with no sigh of warping or wear and personally it gives me a little bit of insurance against baffle board failure.  So if you are going to give it a try cut the plate into 4" strips - good to go.


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## BobUrban (Jan 19, 2015)

Seasoned Oak said:


> Click to expand...
> The baffle boards also glow cherry red. They may reburn some wood gas that has escaped over thetop of them before it goes up the flue. I would not mess with design. Its not that hard to avoid hitting the board. the tubes protect it to some extent.



They continue to glow just as red as ever with the steel in there as well as the plates glowing red.  The steel I had available has holes but that really shouldn't change much as far as performance.  Also, it is only between the baffles and the tubes so if any reburn is actually happening because of the baffles getting hot on top prior to stove exit(I imagine very little of this takes place) it is not in any way effected by my mod.


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## Seasoned Oak (Jan 19, 2015)

BCC_Burner said:


> I'm happy with the factory performance and emissions ratings, but by all means, jam that threaded rod in there, you'll help Englander sell more replacement baffles.


I have both my 30s for about 5-6 years still on the original baffles. I have the steel rod in each one cuz the performance is oh-so much better.. Before i could not get the stove top over 550 no matter what, now it will cruise right up to 700 or above
I can set the air rod lower now thus sending less heat up the flue. perhaps it works so much better cuz i have a relatively weak draft to begin with so for those with a strong draft it may not make as much difference, but it does work so much  better for me. I dont anticipate replacing any baffle boards for a long time as they still look like new.


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## FTG-05 (Jan 20, 2015)

Seasoned Oak said:


> I have both my 30s for about 5-6 years still on the original baffles. I have the steel rod in each one cuz the performance is oh-so much better.. Before i could not get the stove top over 550 no matter what, now it will cruise right up to 700 or above
> I can set the air rod lower now thus sending less heat up the flue. perhaps it works so much better cuz i have a relatively weak draft to begin with so for those with a strong draft it may not make as much difference, but it does work so much  better for me. I dont anticipate replacing any baffle boards for a long time as they still look like new.



I'm having trouble understanding what you added to your 30, do you have any pics of the mod?  

Thanks,


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## FTG-05 (Jan 20, 2015)

BobUrban said:


> First attempt with a full sheet of stainless was an epic fail with aforementioned warpage - second go round seen here has been burning 24/7 since November with no sigh of warping or wear and personally it gives me a little bit of insurance against baffle board failure.  So if you are going to give it a try cut the plate into 4" strips - good to go.



So are those SS plates or just regular steel?  If so, how thick?

Thanks,


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## Highbeam (Jan 20, 2015)

BobUrban said:


> First attempt with a full sheet of stainless was an epic fail with aforementioned warpage - second go round seen here has been burning 24/7 since November with no sigh of warping or wear and personally it gives me a little bit of insurance against baffle board failure.  So if you are going to give it a try cut the plate into 4" strips - good to go.


 
Looks like your air wash plate has been melted and sagged. Mine too.


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## BobUrban (Jan 20, 2015)

HB - airwash plate is as straight as it came from the factory -probably an optical illusion from the strange angle of the pic. 

Those are stainless plates I put up there.  Originally(if you search my posts) I tried it with two plates.  One large and one of the smaller ones you see.  The large plate would flex something awful when heated and my guess was due to heating unevenly.  The smaller plate never moved.  So I cut it into the 4" strips and whola, works like I wanted. Thickness is probably 1/16th or a little over but certainly not an 1/8th. It was something I had at the shop from shelving material so I didn't order it or measure it beyond the plas cuts. 

It has been cooking in there since October with no signs of wear and I am certain it has saved my baffles from a bump or two along the way.  Just a little insurance for any oops moments.


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## Kaptain (Jan 20, 2015)

BCC_Burner said:


> My theory is that the gap between the two boards in the NC-30 is intentional.  With that bit of a gap, when you bump the top of the stove during loading, the boards have room to move, reducing the likelihood of breakage.  When you jam a steel rod in there and lock them firmly in place, they become a lot more fragile, as they have nowhere to go when they're bumped.  I thought this through extensively before deciding against adding a piece of threaded rod.
> 
> I'm happy with the factory performance and emissions ratings, but by all means, jam that threaded rod in there, you'll help Englander sell more replacement baffles.



That's why I used a 1/8th stainless steel rod inside a piece of stove gasket.  It allows a bit a give while fully sealing the gap.


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## Seasoned Oak (Jan 20, 2015)

FTG-05 said:


> I'm having trouble understanding what you added to your 30, do you have any pics of the mod?
> 
> Thanks,


The baffle boards had a quarter inch gap in the middle so i added a quarter inch by about 19" long steel rod along the side to close the gap. this keeps the wood gas from sneaking around the side of the baffle board and going right up the flue. All wood gasses are forced to travel to the front of the stove as designed and go around the front of the baffle boards before traveling along the top of the boards to the flue. The stove now burns hotter ,cleaner with little or no smoke out the flue. You can find the steel rod in various widths and lengths at your local hardware store.


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## FTG-05 (Jan 20, 2015)

OK, now I got it.  The threaded rod was a fancy spacer.  Doh!  

Thanks!


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## BobUrban (Jan 20, 2015)

FTG - a welding rod or something thinner than the gap stuffed inside some gasket rope fills the gap and offers some flex in the event the boards move under high heat or get bumped. Just another option


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## Seasoned Oak (Jan 20, 2015)

I put it on the side as not tot add weight to the center of the air tubes possibly causing them to sag when they get cherry red.


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## johnpma (Feb 10, 2015)

All this talk so what are the dimensions of the two boards suppose to be?????

Found this stuff:


http://www.mcmaster.com/#insulation-boards/=vum5lr


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## mopar440_6 (Feb 10, 2015)

johnpma said:


> All this talk so what are the dimensions of the two boards suppose to be?????
> 
> Found this stuff:
> 
> ...



IIRC, 18-1/2" L x 9-5/8" W x 1/2" T but don't quote me on that. I can get actual measurements when I get home and update this post. Good call on McMaster. I look for everything on there and never even thought about baffle material.


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## johnpma (Jul 2, 2015)

Installing the used 30 I picked up during the winter. Any word on the exact size of the boards. The boards with my used stove are in pieces......guy was kinda a hack


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## johnpma (Sep 29, 2015)

Anyone purchase their ceramic boards from places other than englander? They are a bit steep.......I "pinged" nerefractory as he had a post here saying he sells the same stuff but better for less money and I think he is MIA


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## blades (Sep 29, 2015)

johnpma said:


> Anyone purchase their ceramic boards from places other than englander? They are a bit steep.......I "pinged" nerefractory as he had a post here saying he sells the same stuff but better for less money and I think he is MIA


See if you have any kiln builders or rebuilders in your area  Or industrial heat treat furnace repair shops they will likely have something that will work


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## branchburner (Sep 29, 2015)

blades said:


> See if you have any kiln builders or rebuilders in your area  Or industrial heat treat furnace repair shops they will likely have something that will work



For anyone in the Boston area, there is a really good place just off 93 in Woburn. They always have scraps of ceramic fiber board and blanket that can end up being a buck or two per sq ft, rather than 5 to 10 times that price:
https://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/mad/5236554346.html
http://www.smart-ceramics.com/insref.html


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## Huntindog1 (Sep 29, 2015)

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR3.TRC2.A0.H0.Xceramic fiber board.TRS0&_nkw=ceramic fiber board&_sacat=0

Also you can order ceramic blanket to to place on top of your ceramic baffle board.
Alot of stoves already come with the blanket but the NC30 doesnt. Makes for easier secondaries
at lower input air settings.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ceramic-Fib...s-1x-24-x24-/201372189243?hash=item2ee2b7c23b


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## johnpma (Sep 29, 2015)

Thank you. When you add the blanket does it increase the fire box temp by much?


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## branchburner (Sep 29, 2015)

Huntindog1 said:


> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR3.TRC2.A0.H0.Xceramic fiber board.TRS0&_nkw=ceramic fiber board&_sacat=0
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ceramic-Fib...s-1x-24-x24-/201372189243?hash=item2ee2b7c23b



Yeah, the scraps from the ceramics supply house cost just a fraction of ebay... with shipping that blanket is $12/sf and I paid about $2/sf...  'course it only works if you have a place in easy and convenient driving distance


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## johnpma (Sep 29, 2015)

Anyone know the dims of the two boards in the Englander 30?


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## jacksnipe (Sep 29, 2015)

johnpma said:


> Anyone know the dims of the two boards in the Englander 30?


The boards in our new unused nc-30 measure 9 5/8" x  18 1/2"  x 1/2" thick ea.


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## johnpma (Sep 30, 2015)

jacksnipe said:


> The boards in our new unused nc-30 measure 9 5/8" x 18 1/2" x 1/2" thick ea.


 Thank you Sir


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