# Which chainsaw to buy-  stihl ms180 v ms250?



## hpcbmw (Oct 11, 2015)

New guy here. Just moved into a home with only elect heating but a bunch of dead wood and trees to clear, so gonna be installing a fireplace insert and cutting some wood for heating. I've got a professional tree service coming in a couple weeks to cut down 2 80' trees and leaving the wood, so first thing I've got to do is buy a chainsaw. It looks like I'll be cutting rounds up to about 18", maybe a bit larger. I've got about 10 of these big digger pines to cut down over the next few years, plus a bunch of smaller live oaks to trim. 

I've used chainsaws in the past, but just occasionally. Stihl seems like a good brand that will last forever,  but I'm not locked into just Stihl. The local Stihl dealer has the MS180 for $250 and the MS250 on sale for $299.00. What's the better homeowner saw? The 180 has a tool less chain adjuster and easy start. Does this make a difference in the real world? Any other suggestions on good saws in the $300 price range? 

Thanks!


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## D8Chumley (Oct 11, 2015)

Echo CS 590. More saw and 5 year warranty for under $400. That's basically a 60cc saw vs 32 and 45cc. I'm not crazy about the tool less adjuster. No experience with it, but I like 2 studs and nuts securing my bar. Doesn't take that long to adjust, and really how often do you need to adjust the chain once it breaks in? My .02 And welcome to the Hearth!


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## dougand3 (Oct 11, 2015)

+1 on Echo 590 - it's a pro build. Personally, I wouldn't buy a homeowner Stihl - I think they are too pricey for what you get. But some like them and like to take saw to dealer for things, which is fine if that's your preference.
If I wanted a homeowner clamshell - it'd be a Poulan 42cc refurb for $80-$90 online.


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## DougA (Oct 11, 2015)

I had a tool less chain adjuster of a cheapie Poulan Pro and it was a complete POS.  Stayed tight for a couple of cuts then was loose again. I'm sure Stihl's would be better but as posted, it's more secure to have two real metal studs to tighten.  I'm not familiar with either saw but the rule I like is, but the biggest you can reasonably afford.  My 2 Stihls are 50cc and that's been OK but wish I had a bit more.


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## dougand3 (Oct 11, 2015)

If you want that dealer and those 2 saws are only options - sure, get the MS250. The 180 is a pruning saw and I agree, tool-less chain adjuster is crapola.


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## D8Chumley (Oct 11, 2015)

I bought mine after my MS360 blew up, again. The 590 is not the saw the 360/361/362 is, but for almost half the price I love it. I have the MS 460 for the big stuff and the MS 170 for the smaller jobs. Great saw for the price


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## saskwoodburner (Oct 11, 2015)

D8Chumley said:


> Echo CS 590. More saw and 5 year warranty for under $400. That's basically a 60cc saw vs 32 and 45cc. I'm not crazy about the tool less adjuster. No experience with it, but I like 2 studs and nuts securing my bar. Doesn't take that long to adjust, and really how often do you need to adjust the chain once it breaks in? My .02 And welcome to the Hearth!



 Totally agree on the adjusting aspect. Loosening two nuts to finger tight, while pulling up on the bar, tighten a screw, and tighten the nuts back up. After two or three times, you're a pro.


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## johneh (Oct 11, 2015)

The 250 is a good light saw for light to medium use eg home owner
Right now it is on sale at a good price  I have an 250 and it is my go
to saw for most of my fire wood it is light and fairly fast and I can work
it all day with the 16 in bar . I also have a 291 which is for the bigger stuff
it has a 20 in bar . For the really big stuff I have a 461 with a 28 in bar but
it is rarely needed and I find it very heavy but nice to have when I need it .
Buy what you need a bigger saw is nice to have but is this what you need ?
Every one has there likes and dislikes on saws . Just don't fall for the hip
that bigger is better just because joe blow has a saw with 100cc does not
mean that you do and faster is not always better as far as I am concerned


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## D8Chumley (Oct 11, 2015)

Good points. I have the 18" bar on my 590 and use it more than any of my others presently


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## hpcbmw (Oct 11, 2015)

Thanks for the info. I'll skip the MS 180. I'm interested in the echo 590, but not sure I need that much saw. 

I guess I'll ideally need two saws - one for cutting a bunch of limbs and smaller dead wood on the property, and a larger saw for cutting through the large logs that will be left when they cut down the big pine trees. From the info you guys gave me, and some google research, probably the echo 590 for the big stuff. 

What is recommended for a smaller and lighter saw? I guess that will be mostly used to cut stuff under 10". Is an electric worth looking at? Between trees close to the house, and my 3000w generator, I could access most of my property with an electric.


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## rowerwet (Oct 11, 2015)

I use an 18" homelite electric saw for small stuff when it just isn't worth dragging out the gas saw. It isn't as fun as the big saws or as fast, but good enough. For $75 it does the job.


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## D8Chumley (Oct 11, 2015)

Being a mostly Stihl guy I would recommend the 170 or 171 I guess it is now. Tough little saw, and I paid $179 brand new with a 14" bar it has paid for itself a few times over. I've cut a heck of a lot wood with that little guy. I'd also look into the Echo equivalent if I were in the market for another. I love to read reviews, I'll pour over them for a few days sometimes before I pull the trigger


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## DodgyNomad (Oct 11, 2015)

hpcbmw said:


> Thanks for the info. I'll skip the MS 180. I'm interested in the echo 590, but not sure I need that much saw.
> 
> I guess I'll ideally need two saws - one for cutting a bunch of limbs and smaller dead wood on the property, and a larger saw for cutting through the large logs that will be left when they cut down the big pine trees. From the info you guys gave me, and some google research, probably the echo 590 for the big stuff.
> 
> What is recommended for a smaller and lighter saw? I guess that will be mostly used to cut stuff under 10". Is an electric worth looking at? Between trees close to the house, and my 3000w generator, I could access most of my property with an electric.




On the electric, I don't think you'll like it for limbing.  Too much tangle, pain with the cord, etc..  The MS250 would be fine for the kind of quantity and wood size you've mentioned, and it's not too large for limbing.  It's what I use for limbing and bucking little stuff.  

For only a couple of tall trees, and some pines and trimming oaks, I think the 250 will be a great single saw.  If you're going to own multiples and start really cutting wood, then things change and get a 60cc class saw and a little trim saw, like a little tanaka.  Those things are really lightweight.


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## jeffesonm (Oct 11, 2015)

I have been happy with my 180c / 12" bar.  It weighs next to nothing and easy to whip around.  No complaints on the tool-less adjuster... I like the simplicity of the regular bar nuts but the tool-less one has worked just fine.

If you are just buying one saw, get the 250.


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## jlightning (Oct 12, 2015)

If you go w/ one saw buy the stihl 250 or echo 590.  If you decide to run 2 saws buy a 170 or 180 for the small stuff and a farm boss for the bigger jobs.  I started w/ a ms390 for everything which was great for bucking up big logs but was too heavy for limbing.  I now have a ms180 and ms460 which has the best of both worlds.  Don't rule out used saws also.  You could pick up 2 nice used saws for the price of 1 new but you need to know what to look for


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## Jon1270 (Oct 12, 2015)

My only advice is to look down the road a bit and decide what's likely to serve you best over the longer term.  Almost any functional saw with a sharp chain will handle your immediate needs without too much trouble.


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## maple1 (Oct 12, 2015)

250.


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## hpcbmw (Oct 14, 2015)

I stumbled upon a $90 poulan 42cc 18" bar that Dougand3 mentioned - refurb for $90 online, so I bought it. I'll use this as a sort of "learner" saw. If it turns out I need more saw, and am doing alot of cutting, I'll look at a bigger Stihl. If not, I'll just keep using the refurb poulan. 

Thanks for all the input!


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## dougand3 (Oct 14, 2015)

You'll do fine with the Poulan. 
1. Learn to tune carb - search you tube "How to tune chainsaw"
2. When you're comfortable with saw control, get a better chain...Yellow Pro chain like Oregon 91VXL cuts so much better.


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## Jazzberry (Oct 17, 2015)

Skip all of the above and get Stihls smallest Pro Saw the 260 or 026.


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## D8Chumley (Oct 18, 2015)

Jazzberry said:


> Skip all of the above and get Stihls smallest Pro Saw the 260 or 026.


Maybe he doesn't have over $600 to spend? If he could afford it, fine. The 590 has almost 10 more cc and pro style build, for mid-high $300 range


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## Jazzberry (Oct 18, 2015)

I would get a used one for 250 or less. In fact I have 2 of them that I bought used. Paid 75 for one and 150 for the other.



D8Chumley said:


> Maybe he doesn't have over $600 to spend? If he could afford it, fine. The 590 has almost 10 more cc and pro style build, for mid-high $300 range


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## D8Chumley (Oct 18, 2015)

I wish they were that cheap around here I'd buy a few myself


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## Jon1270 (Oct 19, 2015)

Jazzberry said:


> Skip all of the above and get Stihls smallest Pro Saw the 260 or 026.





Jazzberry said:


> I would get a used one for 250 or less. In fact I have 2 of them that I bought used. Paid 75 for one and 150 for the other.





D8Chumley said:


> I wish they were that cheap around here I'd buy a few myself



That's below market no matter where you are, but such deals can pop up almost anywhere.  You have to be both patient and very quick on the draw, though.


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## Jazzberry (Oct 19, 2015)

Yea but I buy and sell Stills all the time and around here you can pick up a decent 26 for 250 or less pretty easy. Sometimes 150. Watch Craigslist and Garage sales etc.


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## D8Chumley (Oct 19, 2015)

There's a Mastermind ported 261 on CL here for like $650 with 5 tanks thru it. If money was no issue for me...
Sorry, $600
http://lancaster.craigslist.org/for/5266252287.html


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## Jazzberry (Oct 21, 2015)

Here is a good looking deal for an 026
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-026-W...885651?hash=item2a5a9d5093:g:zOMAAOSw5ZBWJvyH

There is also a couple of 024 bargains which is the same saw less a few cc. 024s are almost always a good deal and they sometimes run better than their twin the 026. 024 avs is the one you want. Forget the 025 / 250. Its is a homeowner saw.


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## jeepmedic (Oct 31, 2015)

I have a 180 and really like it. The light weight, tool less bar, and overall performance makes it a great little saw. I use it mostly for limbing, but it will handle some 10" oak pretty good with a sharp chain. 

If I had to pick only one saw though..it would be a larger one.


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## D8Chumley (Nov 1, 2015)

Jazzberry ( or anyone who can answer ) you have piqued my interest in this 026/024 saw. For the 026 specifically, I see them on CL, some have the PRO emblem some don't but it looks like they all have the decomp button. How do I know without physically holding it whether it's a PRO and worthwhile maybe driving to see it? And conversely how to spot a non-pro saw. Not that I "need" another saw, but with the CAD.... Thanks!


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## Jon1270 (Nov 1, 2015)

D8Chumley said:


> For the 026 specifically, I see them on CL, some have the PRO emblem some don't but it looks like they all have the decomp button.



Only the Pro models of 026 and MS260 actually have (or had when new, anyhow) a decomp, but the base model MS260 uses the same orange engine shroud as the Pro model, with a black filler piece blocking the decomp opening.  It's hard to tell the difference in a typical low-res Craigslist photo.  The original shroud on the base-model 026's would not have a decomp hole, but some people refurbing an 026 will replace the OEM shroud and air filter cover with aftermarket MS260 plastics, which again will have a decomp hole whether it's needed or not.

If the saw you're looking at has screw caps, then it's an 026.  If it has flippy caps then it's either a late-model 026 or an MS260.  026 plastics are flatter across the top, while MS260 plastics have a hump running down the middle.  If a saw has screw caps but the engine shroud and air filter cover are humped on top, then it's an 026 wearing 260 plastic, probably aftermarket.  If it has a screw-type oil cap and a flippy gas cap then it's an 026 with a 260 gas tank/rear handle assembly.  The easy compatibility, the popularity of the models and the vigorous aftermarket for parts means these things get mixed and matched a lot.

The other differences between pro and non-pro are even less likely to be visible in small pictures, but if you go to see a saw then an adjustable oiler is a good pro feature to look for.


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## D8Chumley (Nov 1, 2015)

Good info, thanks Jon


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## Jon1270 (Nov 1, 2015)

You're welcome.  For the record, the only "pro" feature I really care about on these is the adjustable oiler -- not because it's adjustable, but because the adjustable oiler is clutch-driven and only moves oil when the clutch is engaged.  The non-adjustable oiler pumps even at idle, which gets messy and wasteful in some cutting situations.  I have an early non-pro 026 that I love in most respects.  A decomp would be nice, I suppose, but it runs so well as it is that I'm not about to switch cylinders.  I am, however, gathering parts to swap in an adjustable oiler.


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## D8Chumley (Nov 1, 2015)

I don't care about the decomp either, I'm still able to start a saw without using it. Adjustable oiler is a nice feature however


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## Jon1270 (Nov 1, 2015)

Here's my base-model 026, just after I put it back together.  It's stock except that I improvised a thinner base gasket to adjust the squish.


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## Jazzberry (Nov 1, 2015)

Jon1270 said:


> Here's my base-model 026, just after I put it back together.  It's stock except that I improvised a thinner base gasket to adjust the squish.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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