# Rust control for the interior of a stored pellet stove



## Val (Nov 7, 2012)

I bought a used 2002 Harman Accentra that came up for sale in my area a while back this year and I want to store it in my garage. I can put it on a wood dolly and shrink wrap it. But what can I spray the inside burn chamber with so it doesnt rust? The stove ash is vacuumed out. I mean I can spray penetrating oil, wd-40, cooking spray. Maybe I can even brush on a light oil with a paint brush in the burn chamber. But also....what about the auger/blower area? what can I spray as a protectant in this area? My garage is not heated but has a concrete floor. Objects in the garage are subject to condensation when the weather changes.


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## The Ds (Nov 7, 2012)

We used pam cooking spray in the firebox and 2 packs of damp rid--

1 in the hopper and one in the firebox......some put 1 into the ashpan instead of the firebox...Thing is,these need to be replaced occasionally,so u would need to remove the shrink wrap at some point to replace the damp rid....


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## gbreda (Nov 7, 2012)

Some use Pam, some use WD40.  Anything like these will work. 

This past summer, I plugged all ports (exhaust, intake) with rags and put in 2 containers of damp rid (1 in ash pan, 1 in burnpot).  No spray at all.

This was the first year with zero rust and dry as a bone.  Basement and sitting on concrete.


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## djs_net (Nov 7, 2012)

I bought my stove about a year ago and had no idea that rust could be an issue. I spent some extra time last week (during my full yearly cleaning) sanding and removing surface rust from inside the stove. I won't make that mistake again...I'll be spraying and/or using that damp rid after the final burn next spring.


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## WoodPorn (Nov 7, 2012)

Cosmoline Rust Veto if this is for long term storage, leaves a waxy film. I was always under the impression that WD40 dried up.

http://www.cosmolinedirect.com/


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## Hellfire (Nov 7, 2012)

High heat black paint on the inside is the ticket after some wire brush action wd-40 disappears BTW


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## briansol (Nov 7, 2012)

buy a bunch of beef jerky.
enjoy beef jerky
place desicant packets in the stove to absorb moisture.


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## gbreda (Nov 7, 2012)

Right from the company website:

"WD-40 keeps your favorite sports equipment rust-free and ready to use. Try spraying America’s favorite multi-purpose product on bike chains, aluminum baseball bats, golf clubs, even horseshoes!"

It must leave a residue behind


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## Harvey Schneider (Nov 7, 2012)

Hellfire said:


> High heat black paint on the inside is the ticket after some wire brush action


Rust will continue to eat away the iron after it is sealed in with paint. Just ask anybody who has done body work on an old car.
The rust needs to be deprived of its moisture but the best way to stop rust is to convert the rust to a stable form. I don't know what products are available now, but I used to use something called Trustan. It turned the rust into a hard black substance. This was not a paint, but a thin clear liquid that soaked into the rust. I don't know if the remaining black substance will burn off, but I don't see that as a problem. If cleaned and treated in the spring the iron is protected until the next heating season.
There are also chemicals available that dissolve and remove rust. They are sold for cleaning rust from tools. Once cleaned an oil coating will protect from new rust forming.
I am sure desiccants help and WD-40 (the WD stands for water displacement, the 40 is that it was the 40th formulation they tried) should help, but once rust has begun it will continue to propagate unless removed or converted.


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## WoodPorn (Nov 7, 2012)

briansol said:


> buy a bunch of beef jerky.
> enjoy beef jerky
> place desicant packets in the stove to absorb moisture.


 
Enter stage left: Randy Macho Man Savage with a torn Slim Jim shirt saying....SNAP INTO IT!


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## SmokeyTheBear (Nov 7, 2012)

Hoppe's 9 gun oil works great, tastes bad, less filling and long lasting.


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## Hellfire (Nov 7, 2012)

Harvey Schneider said:


> Just ask anybody who has done body work on an old car.



Yes i do bodywork/restoration that is why i said this:
30 years experience



Hellfire said:


> after some wire brush action


 
Self explanatory as to why a brush till rust is gone (tried but true) old school approach
Besides you will NEVER STOP IT completely.


But why take this chance   quote="Harvey Schneider, post: 1234888"]but I used to use something called Trustan. It turned the rust into a hard black substance[/quote]

At what consequence a ruined ceramic glass!

Have proof that it does not?
No thanks not worth it.

I have used more so called miracle products out there that claim to stop rust but fall short everytime(failed to stop rust )
In other words if it worked so well all body shop/ restoration facilities  would not have any use for a media blaster

Look at at highway bridges that get repaired they usually blast them clean because it is the most effective way to remove rust .

Not even powder coatings escape the rust termite !  Trust me.



WoodPorn said:


> Cosmoline Rust Veto if this is for long term storage, leaves a waxy film. I was always under the impression that WD40 dried up.
> 
> http://www.cosmolinedirect.com/


 
I would trust cosmoline as the military uses that when they mothball their equipment when storing for a long term duration.

Just did not see the reason to say hey use this >
	

		
			
		

		
	




not everyone has a media blaster.


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## Val (Nov 7, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> Hoppe's 9 gun oil works great, tastes bad, less filling and long lasting.


 interesting idea...... but that gun oil is a bit expensive $


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## SmokeyTheBear (Nov 7, 2012)

The point is anything that leaves a coating and that coating doesn't have to be all that thick.  You do have to clean and remove any rust and ash first.  Pam, wd40, gun oil, and many other oils will work.

If you get the mess off the surfaces you can even spray paint them.


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## Val (Nov 7, 2012)

Harvey Schneider said:


> Rust will continue to eat away the iron after it is sealed in with paint. Just ask anybody who has done body work on an old car.
> The rust needs to be deprived of its moisture but the best way to stop rust is to convert the rust to a stable form. I don't know what products are available now, but I used to use something called Trustan. It turned the rust into a hard black substance. This was not a paint, but a thin clear liquid that soaked into the rust. I don't know if the remaining black substance will burn off, but I don't see that as a problem. If cleaned and treated in the spring the iron is protected until the next heating season.
> There are also chemicals available that dissolve and remove rust. They are sold for cleaning rust from tools. Once cleaned an oil coating will protect from new rust forming.
> I am sure desiccants help and WD-40 (the WD stands for water displacement, the 40 is that it was the 40th formulation they tried) should help, but once rust has begun it will continue to propagate unless removed or converted.


 Home depot sells a Loctite brand (spray can) rust neutalizer paint that sprays on clear and turns the rust black when it dries. I sprayed some on the bottom of the stove. I used this product before on railings/bench sides/spare tire rim. But I think it might really work best on light surface rust. heavy rust or dirty surface might not be as effective. Maybe a brush-on product might be great. I do know that these rust inhibitors are pricey. I really like the dissectant idea. Dissectants are pricey...the silicone beads variety) but I think Damp-rid is economical price. instead of wd-40, rustoleum sells a "rust inhibitor" spray. At first, I thought this product was stupid because I thought it was a paint. but its not, its almost like spraying kerosene. that actually works good on garden tools and plumbing snakes.


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## Hellfire (Nov 7, 2012)

Curious (except for cosmetic rust )anyone have a stove completely RUST through without cleaning the rust off ?
I could maybe see the burn pot and maybe a baffle RUST THROUGH.

And NO i cant see someone leaving one outside in the elements and claim that theirs rusted out.
Normal storage please>


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## WoodPorn (Nov 7, 2012)

Hellfire said:


> Curious (except for cosmetic rust )anyone have a stove completely *RUST* through without cleaning the rust off ?
> I could maybe see the burn pot and maybe a baffle *RUST THROUGH*.
> 
> And *NO* i cant see someone leaving one outside in the elements and claim that theirs rusted out.
> Normal storage please>


 
Why are you yelling?


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## Hellfire (Nov 7, 2012)

WoodPorn said:


> Why are you yelling?


 Sorry, just my way to highlight RUST


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## MCPO (Nov 7, 2012)

I would have to think with  anything more than a slight surface rust on a stove you should be thinking and doing more about the cause . I know my humid basement might cause the pellet stove to rust but I run a dehumidifier in the summer.
 My rear garage /workshop stove has out been there for 3 yrs with no rust inside or out.


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## Harvey Schneider (Nov 7, 2012)

Val said:


> .the silicone beads variety) but I think Damp-rid is economical price


The silica gel desiccants can be rejuvenated and reused. Just microwave it until it stops steaming. Be careful not to get it so hot that the seals on the bag melt open. This makes them more cost effective than Damp Rid. Large packets can be had at low cost on Ebay.


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## P38X2 (Nov 7, 2012)

I'd be hesitant to use cosmoline in there. Maybe its properties are different after a relatively short period of time but I've cleaned old surplus rifles covered in that stuff and it was a NIGHTMARE to get off. Wicked sticky mess.

Seems like some sort of desiccant would be the best option as you wouldn't have to worry about getting every nook and cranny. (Sorry Thomas' English Muffins- Copyright violation)


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## Val (Nov 8, 2012)

Harvey Schneider said:


> The silica gel desiccants can be rejuvenated and reused. Just microwave it until it stops steaming. Be careful not to get it so hot that the seals on the bag melt open. This makes them more cost effective than Damp Rid. Large packets can be had at low cost on Ebay.


 yes, i do have a nice chunk of silica dissectant for use to keep papers from molding in a safe box. yep, i dried it out in an oven for 2 hours at 250 degrees. but that box of silica beads was an expensive one. I have been trying to save a few small silica packets when I find them but I wonder if they are worth saving as they are small packets. I'll have to check out some prices. But because the stuff was pricey, I question if enough could be placed in a firebox to justify the cost. I'll probably use rust inhibiting oil.


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## Val (Nov 8, 2012)

P38X2 said:


> I'd be hesitant to use cosmoline in there. Maybe its properties are different after a relatively short period of time but I've cleaned old surplus rifles covered in that stuff and it was a NIGHTMARE to get off. Wicked sticky mess.
> 
> Seems like some sort of desiccant would be the best option as you wouldn't have to worry about getting every nook and cranny. (Sorry Thomas' English Muffins- Copyright violation)


 Cosmoline was used in the inside of steel motorcyle tanks when they were shipped new. Yes, it is sticky. you had to flush out the tank first or it would gum up the carberator on a new motorcycle.


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## LMPS (Nov 8, 2012)

In the past I have used cooking spray and still got rust.  This year I used both cooking spray and damp-out, just put one in the fire pot and got great results, no rust at all this year.


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## gbreda (Nov 8, 2012)

Alot of talk about coatings. Bottom line is if you keep the damp out there wont be rust inside. A pellet stove is a sealed unit when in proper working order. If the door gaskets are good, the doors shut and secured, all ports plugged there wont be moisture inside.
Make sure gaskets are doing their job, plug the tailpipe and outside air intake tight, add some Damp Rid or silica for extra measure. You should be OK.

JMHO


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## peakbagger (Nov 8, 2012)

I have found this stuff works pretty well for keeping rust at bay. Boeshield T-(

http://www.google.com/#q=boeshield&...c8579f3400f080&bpcl=37643589&biw=1514&bih=625

Its sort of like WD-40 but it evaporates and leaves a waxy film.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Nov 8, 2012)

gbreda said:


> Alot of talk about coatings. Bottom line is if you keep the damp out there wont be rust inside. A pellet stove is a sealed unit when in proper working order. If the door gaskets are good, the doors shut and secured, all ports plugged there wont be moisture inside.
> Make sure gaskets are doing their job, plug the tailpipe and outside air intake tight, add some Damp Rid or silica for extra measure. You should be OK.
> 
> JHMO


 
Some pellet stoves are almost sealed units, not all pellet units are as sealed as others, and even with the vent and air intake plugged moisture can still flow through the fire box on a large number of stoves.

As for the prices of things I consider a little bit of oil or desiccant to be cheap insurance and as has been noted silica can be reused after drying out all of the moisture it absorbed.


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## Hellfire (Nov 8, 2012)

Another option:

Ship it to arizona i hear the cars there are rust free


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