# Showin off new Regency i2400 wood insert...



## pelican (Dec 31, 2012)

Hi all, thanks for all your advice with helping me choose an insert. I ended up going with the Regency i2400. It's been a few weeks since it's been installed and I thought I'd post a pic and ask a few questions while I'm at it.

First off, I really like  this insert, looks great and heats up the room nicely (almost too hot most of the time). I wasn't able to get the heat upstairs liked I'd hoped in my raised ranch (insert is on the bottom floor) so now I think it's time for plan B which is to cut a couple of floor vents in to help distribute the heat upstairs. The good thing is the insert is able to maintain the temperature upstairs if I keep the thermostat lowered to 62 so I'm not using any oil during the day. I just wish I could get the temp up to 68 or so.

I was hoping you could help with a few questions I had. This unit has one air control and the manual didn't go into detail on how I should have it positioned while in use. It just said when it's pulled out it allows more air and pushed in less air (obvious, I know).

Once I get the insert going I'm thinking I should push it in to cut the air down to have it burn longer, is this the right thing to do? Sometimes when I close it I hear sort of a howling sound so I have to open it up till it goes away, is this normal?

Also, I don't think I'll be getting an IR gun but I do have a stove top magnetic thermometer. From what I've read/heard, the ideal stovetop temp should be 400-600 degrees. No matter how I fill it, have the air control set. etc. I can't seem to get it above 350 degrees on the stovetop thermometer.

I've checked my wood with a moisture meter and it seems pretty dry, around 20-25, some pieces lower. Not sure if I'm operating the insert correctly or if there are any tips you could help out with.

Thanks again for all your help!


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## KaptJaq (Dec 31, 2012)

Congratulations on the new insert, nice unit, nice fire in it.

Where does the hot air from the blowers come out ? On my insert the hot air comes out of slots just below the top front of the unit. Temperature readings from the top are useless, the blower air cools it down. Might be the same on yours...

Once the stove is burning hot, slowly close the air to control the fire. If you close it too much you will kill the fire and create a lot of smoke. It takes a little time but you will get use to the unit and the amount of air needed for a hot controlled fire or a long clean one.

KaptJaq


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## Oldhippie (Dec 31, 2012)

Nice looking install!

When you check the wood moisture are you first splitting open a split and testing the *internal* moisture? This will be a different reading that testing the outside face of a split. I'm guessing you're wood is not as seasoned as you may like for ideal conditions. How many seasons old is it?

Also, the air settings and the temp on top of the stove are both so dependent to individual installations, draft, wood, outside temp etc that it would not be helpful to put out anything more than some very generic initial settings for any stove. You will gain experience with your particular stove and installation and come to have settings and temps you'll use as you go forward.

I have a stove in my living room, that is an older non-EPA stove with a soapstone top. I put my mechanical coil meter on top of that and use 300'F as my cruise setting, which is usually just about a 1/16th of an inch inlet opening of the two air inlets. You will for sure develop you're very own preferred settings for yours.

I do agree with your strategy to put in air registers to move air to your upstairs living area. Here are some really nice ones. I'm going to install some of these in my house for those days when I don't want to start the upstairs stove and just want to get some of the local hear from below coming from my family room (downstairs) stove.


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## pelican (Dec 31, 2012)

Yeah, it does feel hotter than 300-350 degrees, the blower outputs are just below the top of the unit like yours, Kapt. I positioned the thermometer off center and the temp went up a bit so that makes sense. As far as the wood moisture goes, I did do a fresh split to get the reading. So of the wood is just seasoned one season and it looks like it may need two. I guess my cruise setting is 300 as well. 

Thanks!


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## PLAYS WITH FIRE (Dec 31, 2012)

I would put the thermo close to the door and not on the top plate. My stove is like your and measuring the top plate and door area with a laser shows about a 150-200degree difference.


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## raybonz (Dec 31, 2012)

Congrats Pelican your insert looks great!


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## Woodreb (Jan 1, 2013)

We've got the i2400 and placed a magnetic thermometer in the top left corner of the front of the stove (just above the door handle). We use a mix of Envi blocks and hardwood (mostly cherry) because I know some of our wood is still wet (have trouble convincing my DH that it doesn't dry worth a darn as logs). With this mix we can usually get a reading of 400 or above on the thermometer. 400-450  seems like a good cruising setting for us reading off the front of the stove. If you're using the blower, Regency recommends not shutting down the air anymore than about 1/2" from the completely closed position (all the way in).I've found that with the blower on the stove top cools and the secondaries will go out and you end up with it smoldering because the temps are too low and there's not enough air from below to keep the fire going.


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## Beer Belly (Jan 1, 2013)

Nice looking stove....just like my buddy's stove.......he also has a Raised Ranch. and what he did was take down the wall along side the stairs leading to the lower level (wall on one side of the stairs), and put up a cieling fan in the entry to help pull warm air up......I was thinking maybe a vent in the floor at the end of the hallway near the bedrooms (garage below), run a trunk line (unsure of terminology) to another vent leading to the stove room....even better if you run a blower inline to help move the cold air out of the upstairs hallway


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## velvetfoot (Jan 1, 2013)

Nice looking install!  I have the more "fancy" model of that stove, I think, which partly entails a "fancy" door.  I like yours a lot because it opens all the way and you don't get your forehead burned when poking around inside, not that it's ever happened to me.    Also, it looks like the door comes off for future maintenance in a very intuitive manner, unlike mine, and the latch looks more foolproof.

I wouldn't try getting that shelf too hot.  It's pretty far removed from the stove top.  People with similar models have put a magnetic thermometer on the stove top where the heated air slot is under the shelf.  They say it's hard to read.  I think getting a feel for temps with your IR gun is good, plus you can see what's going on!  Only once so far I've seen the stove top glow a little (through the slot), which is a big no-no.  It was when I was starting the fire from scratch and things on the bottom of the stove have to get heated up pretty good before the fan kicks on;  now, when I'm starting a cold stove,  I just turn on the fan manually before the fire gets too hot.

One thing I wouldn't mind having is more than two speeds on the fan.  The high one, which I've been using some lately with the colder temps to get the room warmed faster, is darn loud.  Maybe there's some electrical advantage to having two set speeds vs. a variable speed control, but I'm not smart enough to know what that might be.

Happy Burning and Happy New Year!

edit:  I've got a colonial layout, so not sure how that relates to yours, I've been trying to get by with electric heaters upstairs to warm up the a room when someone is in it.  I'm of the impression it's better than running the oil boiler, but I've switched to an electric (resistance) water heater as well, so who knows.


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## Dieselbreath (Jan 1, 2013)

Congratulations on the insert. I have the exact model as you and really enjoy it. First of all the air control lever should after a good fire is going be pushed in almost to closing. As far as the howling I assume you have a rather high chimney and therefore a strong draft. Which is a good thing, actually. What causes the howling (had it on mine, common on these models) is air rushing through a small EPA hole on the right side. Pull the blower asm off the front and down low and to the right you will see a hole. Most people put a magnet over it. Plug it with whatever.
As far as moving heat, try putting a blower on low blowing air toward the stove from the cool part of the house. Cold air moves easier than warm air.
I have my blower on a variable speed control.


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## pen (Jan 1, 2013)

Good looking install.

I'm curious, why the criss cross wood? Are the splits too long to do an E-W (left to right) or N-S (front to back) burn?

pen


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## mfglickman (Jan 1, 2013)

Looks great!


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## mario veda (Jan 2, 2013)

pelican said:


> Hi all, thanks for all your advice with helping me choose an insert. I ended up going with the Regency i2400. It's been a few weeks since it's been installed and I thought I'd post a pic and ask a few questions while I'm at it.
> 
> First off, I really like this insert, looks great and heats up the room nicely (almost too hot most of the time). I wasn't able to get the heat upstairs liked I'd hoped in my raised ranch (insert is on the bottom floor) so now I think it's time for plan B which is to cut a couple of floor vents in to help distribute the heat upstairs. The good thing is the insert is able to maintain the temperature upstairs if I keep the thermostat lowered to 62 so I'm not using any oil during the day. I just wish I could get the temp up to 68 or so.
> 
> ...


 I have a regency free standing 2400 F and what i did that helps with the air supply issue  is that I made 5 marks on the air supply slide rod with a white paint marker pen starting with fully closed i marked 5 marks on slide ,,5 total spaced out evenly and it helps me kinda know where im at in the air supply .Works for me,BTW marking needs to be done yearly over because it will come off with use and heat...... mario in Va


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## Blue2ndaries (Jan 2, 2013)

Nice looking unit!


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## etiger2007 (Jan 2, 2013)

pen said:


> Good looking install.
> 
> I'm curious, why the criss cross wood? Are the splits too long to do an E-W (left to right) or N-S (front to back) burn?
> 
> pen


 I do that too often,  to me it seems as if it burns better cleaner


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## begreen (Jan 2, 2013)

Congratulations pelican. It looks really nice.

The thermometer needs to be on the front face. The top is cooled by the convection blower. Try the upper left corner as a couple have suggested. Definitely get used to turning down the air more. You will actually get more heat in the earlier (outgassing) stage of the fire. What sort of room temps are you seeing in the stove area?


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## pelican (Jan 2, 2013)

Thx for the replies all. I've been playing around with different spots for the thermometer and it seems like the front left area just above the door is working best, thanks for the suggestion. My readings jumped up around 100 degrees to around 400 where I suspected them to be.

Since I've got the stove I've been using the blower on low but it seems to effect the amount I can close the air control. With the blowers not on i can close it more without the fire smoldering and the stove is getting to a higher temperature. So in everyone's opinion, am I going to give off more heat with the blower or with it off with radiant heat? The room it's in is approx 14 x 22 and the temps I get are on the average 75-80 degrees since using the blowers.


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## pen (Jan 2, 2013)

pelican said:


> am I going to give off more heat with the blower or with it off with radiant heat? The room it's in is approx 14 x 22 and the temps I get are on the average 75-80 degrees since using the blowers.


 
That's where experimentation comes into play.  I heat my home fine w/out a blower on my 30.  My buddy with a 30 can't heat his place for beans w/out using the blower.  Lots of variables involved.

pen


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## begreen (Jan 2, 2013)

Have you tried assisting heat convection to the upstairs by placing a table or box fan at the top of the stairway, placed on the floor, pointing downward, toward the woodstove. Run it on low speed. It will blow the cooler air down low, toward the woodstove. The denser cool air will be replaced with lighter warm air from the stove room. Stove room temps will drop and upstairs temps should rise.


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## michaelryba (Jan 2, 2013)

Using the blower definitely results in more room heat.  I run the blower (on low) 100% of the time during this time of year.  I will turn off the blower in the shoulder seasons so I can reduce the room heat & choke down the fire more & still get a clean burn.  I have and IR gun but rarely use it.   In terms of closing the draft--usually  it's about 30 min. from loading to choke down (still about 1" of shaft plus handle showing) If your wood isn't primo, then a little more.  My rule of thumb on when to cut the draft to it's final position is that I should see some slight glowing of the perforated bars--at the top of the firebox--just after pushing the draft control in.  If they didn't glow a little & the flames are quickly starting to settle, then give it some more air & try again 5 min later.  Watch & learn from your experience. I had the same howling stove experience--follow the good advice about covering the pencil-sized hole.


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## chazcarr (Jan 9, 2013)

michaelryba said:


> Using the blower definitely results in more room heat. I run the blower (on low) 100% of the time during this time of year. I will turn off the blower in the shoulder seasons so I can reduce the room heat & choke down the fire more & still get a clean burn. I have and IR gun but rarely use it. In terms of closing the draft--usually it's about 30 min. from loading to choke down (still about 1" of shaft plus handle showing) If your wood isn't primo, then a little more. My rule of thumb on when to cut the draft to it's final position is that I should see some slight glowing of the perforated bars--at the top of the firebox--just after pushing the draft control in. If they didn't glow a little & the flames are quickly starting to settle, then give it some more air & try again 5 min later. Watch & learn from your experience. I had the same howling stove experience--follow the good advice about covering the pencil-sized hole.


 
Do you have a picture, or a drawing about the general location of that pencil sized hole?  Been looking for it for months.  Thanks.


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## danham (Jan 9, 2013)

My i1200 is in an outside chimney and putting a good bunch of Roxul behind the insert made a big difference in how much heat comes out into the room (instead of warming my driveway). That in turn means the blower, while it helps, is not mandatory unless it's an especially cold, windy night.

-dan


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## Mark McKenna (Jan 22, 2013)

I have the same stove, I tried putting my thermometer above the door handle, however i realized it's completely lost it's magnetic abilities. Time to find a new magnet of a new thermometer. 

I'm new to this entire thing and I've been playing around trying to get the secondaries right, I've been scouring the forums for advice and there are so many great things I've learned already.

Any i2400 specific stuff I should be watching for?


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## velvetfoot (Jan 23, 2013)

I've been using the fan on high on my HI300 the last couple of days when it's been real cold.  Noisy as heck, but throws out more heat, in my opinion.  It'd be nice if it was more than two speeds.  I will only load N/S, if I can help it, so I've been moving the coals to one side.  I took the ashes and, unavoidably, some real small coals out last weekend when it was warmer to make more space.


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## burnt03 (Jan 23, 2013)

Mark McKenna said:


> I have the same stove, I tried putting my thermometer above the door handle, however i realized it's completely lost it's magnetic abilities. Time to find a new magnet of a new thermometer.
> 
> I'm new to this entire thing and I've been playing around trying to get the secondaries right, I've been scouring the forums for advice and there are so many great things I've learned already.
> 
> Any i2400 specific stuff I should be watching for?


 
On my F2400, I have to get it pretty warm to get secondaries going  (Load N-S, bringing the stove up to at least 600 before I start closing down on the air.  Usually peaks out at 700-750).  After about an hour, get it closed down to 1/8 open and I'll have coals to re-light the next morning after about 9-10 hours.  One other thing I've noticed with turning it down.... if I closed the air too quickly (say from 3/4 to 1/2) and it kills the flames, I can open it up all the way to get the flames roaring again, then close it down from full to 1/2 and it'll sometimes kick start the secondaries.


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## chazcarr (Jan 23, 2013)

burnt03 said:


> On my F2400, I have to get it pretty warm to get secondaries going (Load N-S, bringing the stove up to at least 600 before I start closing down on the air. Usually peaks out at 700-750). After about an hour, get it closed down to 1/8 open and I'll have coals to re-light the next morning after about 9-10 hours. One other thing I've noticed with turning it down.... if I closed the air too quickly (say from 3/4 to 1/2) and it kills the flames, I can open it up all the way to get the flames roaring again, then close it down from full to 1/2 and it'll sometimes kick start the secondaries.


 
Where do you have your thermometer?


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## etiger2007 (Jan 23, 2013)

Im going to try and stuff some Roxul behind my unit tonight and see what happens, mine is also in an exterior chimney.


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## NE WOOD BURNER (Jan 23, 2013)

I have forced hot air furnace in my house. I shut the furnace off when burning wood. I have a switch to run the fan on my furnace. When my wood stove is fired up i turn on the furnace fan and the cold air returns pull the air through the furnace and blows out the primary vents. the furnace does not run so the air out is essentially cold air and moves the heat very well. Same principal as the box fan in doorway pointing to stove.


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## burnt03 (Jan 23, 2013)

chazcarr said:


> Where do you have your thermometer?



Centre of stovetop


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## chazcarr (Jan 23, 2013)

burnt03 said:


> Centre of stovetop


 
Really, and you can get it that hot?

I have mine next to the door handle on the front and it almost never gets over 450.


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## velvetfoot (Jan 23, 2013)

F2400 vs. I2400


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## chazcarr (Jan 23, 2013)

velvetfoot said:


> F2400 vs. I2400


 
Oh see now.  Yes the F is better that is for sure.


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## burnt03 (Jan 23, 2013)

Whoops, didn't mention it was freestanding.

Don't think it's better, probably the opposite if anything.  From what I've read on here, I shouldn't have to get it that hot to get secondaries/a clean burn.  

Plus you're measuring at a different place.  I'd probably get similar temps if I measured where you do.


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## etiger2007 (Jan 24, 2013)

danham said:


> My i1200 is in an outside chimney and putting a good bunch of Roxul behind the insert made a big difference in how much heat comes out into the room (instead of warming my driveway). That in turn means the blower, while it helps, is not mandatory unless it's an especially cold, windy night.
> 
> -dan


 
After reading your post it gave me something new to try.  I got home yesterday and pulled the roxul I had insulating the sides of my insert and broke it into pieces (didnt want to unhook the liner and make it more work) and stuffed it behind the insert until it was packed fairley tight (i also removed the surround and burned all night with it off) I started up some kindling around 4pm and put two small splits on top and had to leave until 8:30pm because the kid had two basketball games.  Got home around 8:30pm and I was down to  coals so i threw some more kindling on to get her going, after that burned down I put five medium size ash splits in at 9:30pm got the stove top to 575 and went to bed.  I got up at 4am and the stove top was still at 275-300 and the house temp was at 71, the gas furnance never kicked on either and that was set at 68 degrees. We have had a really cold streatch this week and all week I would wake up at 4-430am and the gas furnance was kicking on for who knows how long, but not lastnight and it was 3 degrees outside.  For the first night of trying this I am impressed, I burned all night starting with a very small coal bed too.  Today I will be able to burn more because the kids have a day off of sports. I really want to see how it goes when I have a good coal bed and the house it at 75 when I go to bed.  I will also see if I can stuff mor roxul back there.


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## danham (Jan 24, 2013)

etiger2007 said:


> After reading your post it gave me something new to try. I got home yesterday and pulled the roxul I had insulating the sides of my insert and broke it into pieces (didnt want to unhook the liner and make it more work) and stuffed it behind the insert until it was packed fairley tight (i also removed the surround and burned all night with it off) I started up some kindling around 4pm and put two small splits on top and had to leave until 8:30pm because the kid had two basketball games. Got home around 8:30pm and I was down to coals so i threw some more kindling on to get her going, after that burned down I put five medium size ash splits in at 9:30pm got the stove top to 575 and went to bed. I got up at 4am and the stove top was still at 275-300 and the house temp was at 71, the gas furnance never kicked on either and that was set at 68 degrees. We have had a really cold streatch this week and all week I would wake up at 4-430am and the gas furnance was kicking on for who knows how long, but not lastnight and it was 3 degrees outside. For the first night of trying this I am impressed, I burned all night starting with a very small coal bed too. Today I will be able to burn more because the kids have a day off of sports. I really want to see how it goes when I have a good coal bed and the house it at 75 when I go to bed. I will also see if I can stuff mor roxul back there.


 
Ed,

Glad it's working for you. One comment, when you say you packed the Roxul fairly tight, in my experience it works better if it is allowed to expand to its natural size, trapping more air. I also use it as a poor man's blockoff plate and on the smoke shelf. The whole setup is getting a good workout (5F last night, only up to 8F at 8:30 this morning).

-dan


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## etiger2007 (Jan 24, 2013)

danham said:


> Ed,
> 
> Glad it's working for you. One comment, when you say you packed the Roxul fairly tight, in my experience it works better if it is allowed to expand to its natural size, trapping more air. I also use it as a poor man's blockoff plate and on the smoke shelf. The whole setup is getting a good workout (5F last night, only up to 8F at 8:30 this morning).
> 
> -dan


 
I only had a couple inch gap between the insert and the back of the fireplace, so I had to get a chunk of roxul drop it down grab another piece drop it down until I felt like I had a fair amount back there.  I did not want to un hook the liner so space was limited.  The back of the original fire place tappers back so the bottom of the fire place sits farther back than the top so I know that part should have room for it and shouldnt be crushed, as the fire place tappers up it gets closer to the insert and I know that up by the top of the insert is tighter, if that makes sense. .  I also created ablock off plate with the roxul.   With your Regency how many logs do you put in and how long do they last?  Im interested to she what the wife thought as she was up all night.


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## chazcarr (Jan 24, 2013)

etiger2007 said:


> I only had a couple inch gap between the insert and the back of the fireplace, so I had to get a chunk of roxul drop it down grab another piece drop it down until I felt like I had a fair amount back there. I did not want to un hook the liner so space was limited. The back of the original fire place tappers back so the bottom of the fire place sits farther back than the top so I know that part should have room for it and shouldnt be crushed, as the fire place tappers up it gets closer to the insert and I know that up by the top of the insert is tighter, if that makes sense. . I also created ablock off plate with the roxul. With your Regency how many logs do you put in and how long do they last? Im interested to she what the wife thought as she was up all night.


 
You happen to take any pictures of this process to share?
I am just about to attempt this myself.

Thank You


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## Mark McKenna (Jan 24, 2013)

Actually very interested to see pics as well, anyone have any?

My insert is in the center of the house, should I still roxul in behind or just let it radiate into the spare bedroom behind the fireplace?


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## danham (Jan 24, 2013)

Here's my Roxul setup. I removed all the face plates and trim pieces and had plenty of room to get the insulation in behind the insert. The smoke shelf was more of a "stuff and hope" operation, but seems to be working quite well.












-dan


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## etiger2007 (Jan 24, 2013)

chazcarr said:


> You happen to take any pictures of this process to share?
> I am just about to attempt this myself.
> 
> Thank You


 
No i didnt take any pics I had to hurry because of the kids schedual.  Sorry, I do think it helped.


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## etiger2007 (Jan 24, 2013)

Mark McKenna said:


> Actually very interested to see pics as well, anyone have any?
> 
> My insert is in the center of the house, should I still roxul in behind or just let it radiate into the spare bedroom behind the fireplace?


 
I would probably let it go, my chimney is an exterior chimney.


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## chazcarr (Jan 24, 2013)

danham said:


> Here's my Roxul setup. I removed all the face plates and trim pieces and had plenty of room to get the insulation in behind the insert. The smoke shelf was more of a "stuff and hope" operation, but seems to be working quite well.
> -dan


 
Really Nice!  Did it take more than one bag of Roxul for that?  Also your liner seems to be attached way better than mine.  I just have the three point attachment.  Did you find instructions somewhere on how to get the surround and trim off?  I have not.


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## danham (Jan 24, 2013)

chazcarr said:


> Really Nice! Did it take more than one bag of Roxul for that? Also your liner seems to be attached way better than mine. I just have the three point attachment. Did you find instructions somewhere on how to get the surround and trim off? I have not.


 
If I recall correctly it was one bag and maybe part of a 2nd, but I'm sorry to say I can't remember accurately. The liner bolts to a flue adaptor which slides into a recess in the top of the stove. There's a long threaded rod that allows you to first connect the liner to the adaptor, then slide it part way into the stove, then push the stove into the firepalce, pull on the rod from the front, and seat the adaptor then tighten its bolts. I didn't have to touch any of that once I got the trim pieces off, which involved undoing four bolts and a couple of trim clips.

Instructions for all of this were in the owner's manual.

-dan


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## danham (Jan 24, 2013)

etiger2007 said:


> I only had a couple inch gap between the insert and the back of the fireplace, so I had to get a chunk of roxul drop it down grab another piece drop it down until I felt like I had a fair amount back there. I did not want to un hook the liner so space was limited. The back of the original fire place tappers back so the bottom of the fire place sits farther back than the top so I know that part should have room for it and shouldnt be crushed, as the fire place tappers up it gets closer to the insert and I know that up by the top of the insert is tighter, if that makes sense. . I also created ablock off plate with the roxul. With your Regency how many logs do you put in and how long do they last? Im interested to she what the wife thought as she was up all night.


 
Ed,

Sorry, forgot to answer your question about loads. We use the insert to prevent use of the gas hot air furnace when possible, but do not heat exclusively with it. It's a small firebox (i1200) and we can't fit a larger unit like the i2400 in our shallow fireplace. The goal was to retain the "charm" of the fireplace but stop air conditioning the house with it [g] and save on natural gas -- which we have definitely done (basically paid for our wood and then some).

So our stove holds about two or maybe three regular splits and if they are nice and dry and the stove is hot, on a reload with draft turned down we can burn that load for maybe three hours, max. Obviously this is not the right appliance for overnight heating, but we knew that when we bought it and don't use it for that.

-dan


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## Dieselbreath (Jan 24, 2013)

chazcarr said:


> Do you have a picture, or a drawing about the general location of that pencil sized hole? Been looking for it for months. Thanks.


 
Pull the fan off the bottom front (if you have it). On the right side you will see a rectangular hole about 3x2. You will have to get real low and look inside this hole and you will see another hole almost directly across from the adjustable vent lever. Plug it anyway you can. I suggest a refrigerator magnet. Plugging the hole makes no difference in operation, at least on my stove.
When pushing the fan asm back on make sure it is pushed all the way back so the thermal disk makes good contact with the body of the stove. Good luck.


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## etiger2007 (Jan 24, 2013)

Dieselbreath said:


> Pull the fan off the bottom front (if you have it). On the right side you will see a rectangular hole about 3x2. You will have to get real low and look inside this hole and you will see another hole almost directly across from the adjustable vent lever. Plug it anyway you can. I suggest a refrigerator magnet. Plugging the hole makes no difference in operation, at least on my stove.
> When pushing the fan asm back on make sure it is pushed all the way back so the thermal disk makes good contact with the body of the stove. Good luck.


 
If it makes no difference why plug it? Just wondering


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## Dieselbreath (Jan 24, 2013)

etiger2007 said:


> If it makes no difference why plug it? Just wondering


As far as the operation of the stove there is no difference, but this is to eliminate the howl sound that  this stove sometimes has if it has a strong draft. Kept me awake until I learned how to correct it.


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## etiger2007 (Jan 24, 2013)

Dieselbreath said:


> As far as the operation of the stove there is no difference, but this is to eliminate the howl sound that this stove sometimes has if it has a strong draft. Kept me awake until I learned how to correct it.


 
gotcha


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## velvetfoot (Jan 24, 2013)

You can hear this howl over the fan on high?


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## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Aug 4, 2013)

May I ak? What factual difference has this made since doing this? Please explain, Ty....

I pad typing sucks, sorry for typo...


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