# Dollar bill test question on door gasket



## tumm21 (Jul 25, 2012)

Hey guys,  I was hoping you could answer how easy or hard should a dollar bill slide out of the door for this dollar bill test.  I replaced my gasket last year before the heating season.  I have a regency i 2400 medium insert.  Any info would be greatly appreciated.


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## Don2222 (Jul 25, 2012)

tumm21 said:


> Hey guys, I was hoping you could answer how easy or hard should a dollar bill slide out of the door for this dollar bill test. I replaced my gasket last year before the heating season. I have a regency i 2400 medium insert. Any info would be greatly appreciated.


 
Hello
I did a dollar bill test on an Enviro Meridium which is the same as the Regency GF-55

You should not be able to pull the dollar out of the door gasket.

However even though I said it fails on the ash pan which it DOES FAIL.
Because the latch is not so strong, the stove will work fine if the bill comes out with a good tug.

See my video


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## Hogwildz (Jul 25, 2012)

May depend on the stove. My insert is snug against the bill, but you can pull it out fairly easily. Round here, if it wiggles its not good, if it is snug and taught, then she is fine.


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## begreen (Jul 25, 2012)

If the dollar bill gives firm resistance then it's fine. If there is no resistance then it is not sealing in that area. Try the test around the door in multiple locations.


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## thechimneysweep (Jul 26, 2012)

The long answer depends on which type of gasket your manufacturer uses. Traditional white fiberglass rope gasket (particularly the low-density stuff) is pretty porous, and relies upon compression to make a good seal. It should take a pretty good tug to pull a dollar bill out of a door that's properly sealed with traditional gasket.

In recent years, some manufacturers have upgraded to graphite impregnated gasket, like the gasket that came with Hog's and begreen's PE models: the graphite powder fills the airspaces in the weave, which allows a good seal to be achieved without as much compression. When testing a door sealed with graphite gasket, a little resistance to a tug on the bill is all that's required.

So, how do you tell the difference? If your gasket is white, it is the traditional kind; graphite turns the gasket black. However, all black gaskets aren't graphite impregnated: traditional gasket is available dyed black. To determine which kind you have, look at the gasket supplied by the manufacturer: if it has a paper strip on one side that peels off to reveal a smooth, tacky surface, it is graphite impregnated. The smooth surface prevents the graphite from interfering with good gasket cement adhesion.


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## begreen (Jul 26, 2012)

Good info Tom, I wondered why they used graphite in gaskets.

Another variable is how the seal is made. Some stoves have a mating rim on the face of the stove that acts like an edge to depress the gasket. The dollar bill needs to be pulled through this in an S shaped fashion and can offer good resistance. Other stoves just depress the gasket against the smooth flat face of the stove. The dollar bill is pulled out flat with less resistance than the knife edge seal.


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## Backwoods Savage (Jul 26, 2012)

tumm21 said:


> Hey guys, I was hoping you could answer how easy or hard should a dollar bill slide out of the door for this dollar bill test. I replaced my gasket last year before the heating season. I have a regency i 2400 medium insert. Any info would be greatly appreciated.


 
So you replaced the gasket last year and think you may have to again? That would be odd. I've read about others replacing gaskets really often but not yearly. Our last stove had the gasket replaced one time. I think it was between 15-20 years before we replaced it. Present stove will be going into the 6th burning year this fall. Still the same gasket.


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## Ashful (Jul 26, 2012)

I just changed the door gaskets on my 1993 Jotul this summer.  I believe the gaksets I removed were the originals, and they were actually working just fine, but the cement holding them on was just about completely shot.


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## tumm21 (Jul 26, 2012)

i replaced my gasket last year.  I didnt replace it for 5 or 6 years prior.  Im not saying it needs replacing.


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## BrotherBart (Jul 26, 2012)

The graphite also keeps the gasket from sticking to the paint on the stove in shipping and storage. A biggie to watch out for is low vs. high density gasket rope. The Englanders use high density and if you buy the stuff at the hardware store it ain't gonna seal. Experience speaking here. From watching the door handle spin like a propeller and dollar bills falling out. Good thing about the high density is that it should last a really long time.

I consider that if the bill is held firmly and doesn't slide out easily, the gasket is fine.


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## Ashful (Jul 26, 2012)

McMaster-Carr sells both, but unfortunately, my Jotul manual only calls out size, and doesn't tell you which type of gasket to use.  I bought the high density stuff to reinstall the rear burn plate after replacing the cat chamber, and had a hell of a time getting the rear burn plate reinstalled to where the bypass damper cam worked right.  I guess Jotul must've used the low density stuff for that location.


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## thechimneysweep (Jul 27, 2012)

If in doubt about the size and type you need, consult your dealer.


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## Treacherous (Aug 12, 2012)

Would leaving the stove door unlatched during the off season offer any appreciable increase in gasket longevity due to the lack of compression?


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## Ashful (Aug 12, 2012)

thechimneysweep said:


> If in doubt about the size and type you need, consult your dealer.


 
My experience is that dealers are useless on all questions pertaining to stoves older than the current model.  I ask them about my Jotul F12, and just get a blank stare.  The owner of the local Jotul dealer tried convincing me the Firelight 12 is a pre-catalytic stove!


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## begreen (Aug 12, 2012)

Depends on the dealer. We have a few great dealers out here that have been around since the 70's. They know their stuff. Tom being one of them.


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## Burnmeister (Dec 29, 2018)

Reviving an old thread here..

Between myself and a stove tech, my side load door gasket on my Jotul Oslo has been changed 4 times in about a moth in a half. It keeps failing the bill test, and Im getting pretty fed up.

Areas of the door are tight, but along the top the bill comes out, but not without resistance. I do have have to pull on it with varying degrees of pressure, but it does come out.


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## begreen (Dec 29, 2018)

Whoa, this is an oldie. Varying resistance is normal. The gasket gets squeezed a little harder in some areas than others. If there is some resistance then the gasket is fine. Why the frequent gasket changes?


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## Burnmeister (Dec 29, 2018)

begreen said:


> Whoa, this is an oldie. Varying resistance is normal. The gasket gets squeezed a little harder in some areas than others. If there is some resistance then the gasket is fine. Why the frequent gasket changes?



This coincides with the other post I was writing on of an uncontrolable fire and the tech put the wrong size gasket on the ash pan door.

I did the ash pan door myself last night and just bill tested all the doors again before I light the stove later.


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## begreen (Dec 29, 2018)

Sounds like you are a better tech than the tech.


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## Burnmeister (Dec 29, 2018)

We'll see. After the last bunch of overfires, my confidence on running the stove is a little shot.

The stove never went over 800°, but when the air is shut and watching stove temp keep climbing is nerve wracking to say the least.


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## begreen (Dec 29, 2018)

If it has stayed below 800F it most likely has not overfired yet. Now that the gaskets are in good order, try loading larger splits, tightly packed and turning down the air as soon as possible without completely squelching the flame and smoldering.


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## KindredSpiritzz (Dec 29, 2018)

Im going too have to delve into this gasket changing business  pretty soon to i think. Lately i notice then i tamp my air way down i get a nice secondary flame up and down the edge of the door by the latch. Im assuming thats not good, latches pretty loose too but still seems to run fine. Not looking forward to trying to change that out. If its to snug or loose what do you do, theres no adjustment is there?  Guess i'll find out.


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## begreen (Dec 29, 2018)

Which stove is this for and what is the latching mechanism like?


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## begreen (Dec 29, 2018)

Reading over this old thread I have found some more info that somewhat contradicts earlier posts. When I did a gasket change on our PE I learned more than I wanted to about gaskets. It took 3 changes to get it right. Color is not always a good guide and all gaskets are not manufactured equally. One big variant is the gasket density. There are low, medium and high density variants in most colors of gaskets. Another variant is how the gasket is hardness. Meeco makes a gold gasket that is very firm. This was the second gasket I tried. In spite of a good fit and easy passing of the dollar bill test the gasket did a poor job of sealing, leaving me again with a hard to control stove. It was only when I got the OEM gasket that I had success and normal operation. When in doubt, go for the OEM. 

Having scraps of several different gaskets (I had also just regasketed a Lopi) I had the opportunity to closely examine each variant. It was then that I noticed that the OEM PE gasket was not just graphite impregnated, but it was also constructed with an inner rope gasket within the outer rope gasket. This creates a soft, yet dense seal that works perfectly for our stove. This is important for our Alderlea because unlike the Summit knife edge seal, our stove is a flat-face seal. I then looked at the Lopi OEM white gasket and found it to be of similar construction, though maybe slightly firmer. When compared to stock graphited gasket from Rutland this difference is quite apparent. Moral of the story is that all gaskets are not made equally. When in doubt get the OEM.


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## KindredSpiritzz (Dec 30, 2018)

begreen said:


> Which stove is this for and what is the latching mechanism like?



It's the Drolet Austral. It has a roller on a pin kind of latch, there is an adjustment on the treads of the  latch mechanism but it seems its either to tight or to loose as you can only adjust it one spin of the handle. Gasket looks in great shape, just pressed down and compacted over the 5 yrs i have had the stove. After reading this thread i'll make sure i get an OEM replacement gasket when i do it.


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## firefighterjake (Dec 30, 2018)

Burnmeister said:


> Reviving an old thread here..
> 
> Between myself and a stove tech, my side load door gasket on my Jotul Oslo has been changed 4 times in about a moth in a half. It keeps failing the bill test, and Im getting pretty fed up.
> 
> Areas of the door are tight, but along the top the bill comes out, but not without resistance. I do have have to pull on it with varying degrees of pressure, but it does come out.



This is normal in my stove . . . and the stove is very controllable still. I've had to change out some of the gaskets (not the side yet though) once since I bought the stove in 2008.


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## Burnmeister (Dec 31, 2018)

firefighterjake said:


> This is normal in my stove . . . and the stove is very controllable still. I've had to change out some of the gaskets (not the side yet though) once since I bought the stove in 2008.



Can I pick your brain about the stove? At what temp does your Oslo cruise best? It seems my secondaries dont get firing until around 450-500°, also, at what temp do you usuly reload? And what is your preferred method of loading the stove? 
I have always raked all the coals fwd leaving bare grille in the back on which I place my largest split. Then I stack to the front trying to keep a flat face to the window.

Sorry for the barrage of questions, but I'm clearly still learning this stove


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## Treacherous (Dec 31, 2018)

I’m still on stock gasket from 2010 and still easily passes the dollar bill test.  Stove operates the same as it did back when new.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Burnmeister (Dec 31, 2018)

firefighterjake said:


> This is normal in my stove . . . and the stove is very controllable still. I've had to change out some of the gaskets (not the side yet though) once since I bought the stove in 2008.



Well, Im running the stove right now and as begreen instructed, I started closing the air right away. And before my gasket problems began I would close the air and back it off a hair and that would do fine, but right now I have the air all the way closed and I can see the fire getting bigger and hotter and the glass getting black.

Somethings still not right


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## firefighterjake (Dec 31, 2018)

Burnmeister said:


> Can I pick your brain about the stove? At what temp does your Oslo cruise best? It seems my secondaries dont get firing until around 450-500°, also, at what temp do you usuly reload? And what is your preferred method of loading the stove?
> I have always raked all the coals fwd leaving bare grille in the back on which I place my largest split. Then I stack to the front trying to keep a flat face to the window.
> 
> Sorry for the barrage of questions, but I'm clearly still learning this stove



I generally rely more on my Condar probe style thermometer in the stove pipe -- I start to cut back the air when it reaches 400-500 degrees typically. Usually the stove top temp is around 400-500 degrees. I tend to shut down things earlier rather than later so the stove doesn't go thermo-nuclear on me.

I don't really reload based on the temps so much as I do by the condition of the coals and my heating needs. I do know that usually when I reload the stove top temp is well below the "optimum" temperature setting. In the first year the biggest mistake I made was reloading too early in the burning process as I equated heat with flames . . . eventually I realized that one gets as much heat from the coals and the stove which has stored thermal mass. In terms of the level of the coals, generally I reload when they are the size of plums or nectarines . . . baseball sized if the temps are extreme.

I load the stove according to the expected heating needs. If it's relatively mild outside (30 degrees or up) I will do a partial load, use my lower BTU wood such as some pine and/or use some punks, chunks and uglies (punky -- but dry -- wood, short pieces of wood or pieces that are bent or not nice and straight) since I do not need to fill the stove to the gills. If it's much, much colder I break out the "good" wood and try to maximize the space, although I've never been particularly fussy about filling up every cubic centimeter with wood. I rarely rake the coals these days except to stir things up just enough to level out the ashes and coals.

And no worries about the questions . . . we're all here to learn from each other . . . heck, I'm still learning.


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## firefighterjake (Dec 31, 2018)

Burnmeister said:


> Well, Im running the stove right now and as begreen instructed, I started closing the air right away. And before my gasket problems began I would close the air and back it off a hair and that would do fine, but right now I have the air all the way closed and I can see the fire getting bigger and hotter and the glass getting black.
> 
> Somethings still not right



I agree . . . if you are closing the air and the fire is still growing AND the glass is getting black I would think air is being introduced somewhere either through an exceptionally high draft or (more likely) a leak in the stove.

Usually when the stove is up to temp and you dial back the air you will get an intense fire as the secondaries kick in AND the glass stays clean or even burns off any black that may be on the glass . . . well either that or the fire dies and the glass goes black because the fire isn't hot enough yet or there is too little air.


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## Ashful (Dec 31, 2018)

firefighterjake said:


> ... I tend to shut down things earlier rather than later so the stove doesn't go thermo-nuclear on me.



Non-cat troubles.  [emoji14]


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## XmasTreefarmer (Dec 31, 2018)

Burnmeister said:


> Well, Im running the stove right now and as begreen instructed, I started closing the air right away. And before my gasket problems began I would close the air and back it off a hair and that would do fine, but right now I have the air all the way closed and I can see the fire getting bigger and hotter and the glass getting black.
> 
> Somethings still not right



I think it's time to find out where that air is getting in.  Get some incense or other smoke source and go around each door - side load, front, and the ash pan and see if you can find where it's leaking.

With my old VC Defiant I used a lit wooden match to test and you will see the flame getting sucked in where it's leaking - just watch your fingers!!


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## Kevin Weis (Dec 31, 2018)

Don't know if this has been mentioned but was your gasket thick enough per spec for that?  If that's not the issue then would have to say you have a warp in the door or hinge is not right somehow.


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Dec 31, 2018)

firefighterjake said:


> This is normal in my stove . . . and the stove is very controllable still. I've had to change out some of the gaskets (not the side yet though) once since I bought the stove in 2008.



Same here.  My Castine and my F600 have both been like this and been very controllable.


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## begreen (Dec 31, 2018)

Burnmeister said:


> Well, Im running the stove right now and as begreen instructed, I started closing the air right away. And before my gasket problems began I would close the air and back it off a hair and that would do fine, but right now I have the air all the way closed and I can see the fire getting bigger and hotter and the glass getting black.
> 
> Somethings still not right


What area of the glass is getting back?


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## begreen (Dec 31, 2018)

Ashful said:


> Non-cat troubles.  [emoji14]


Right, cat owners just live with black glass.


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## Hogwildz (Dec 31, 2018)

begreen said:


> Right, cat owners just live with black glass.


And crusty, clogged stacks 
BK door glass should come laminated with a photo of a fire on the outside of the glass.


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## Ashful (Jan 1, 2019)

Hogwildz said:


> BK door glass should come laminated with a photo of a fire on the outside of the glass.



Lol...


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## XmasTreefarmer (Jan 1, 2019)

Hogwildz said:


> And crusty, clogged stacks
> BK door glass should come laminated with a photo of a fire on the outside of the glass.



OK - Now that is really funny


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## Burnmeister (Jan 1, 2019)

begreen said:


> What area of the glass is getting back?



If you are looking at the stove. Bottom right, at the hinge.


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## Burnmeister (Jan 1, 2019)

begreen said:


> What area of the glass is getting back?


Which is the hinge side to the ash pan door. WHICH I just frikkin' changed the other day.

Sorry for that, but my frustration level is an 11


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## begreen (Jan 1, 2019)

Place a known straight edge (like a 24" level) on the door edges and check for flatness. Do the same on the stove body.


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## Burnmeister (Jan 1, 2019)

begreen said:


> Place a known straight edge (like a 24" level) on the door edges and check for flatness. Do the same on the stove body.




One thing I do see is: The doors are knife edged. The stove is the knife edge, the door has . It does not striking in the middle of the door and gasket, ALOT of places its striking the side of the gasket and not creating that U seal


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## firefighterjake (Jan 1, 2019)

Probably an exceedingly stupid question . . . but I'll ask anyways.

There is no ash build up behind the ash pan, correct? I found once that with the Oslo ash can accumulate behind the ash pan and while you can shut the ash pan door and latch it, the door does not seal correctly.

Again . . . probably a very stupid question on my part.


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## Burnmeister (Jan 1, 2019)

firefighterjake said:


> Probably an exceedingly stupid question . . . but I'll ask anyways.
> 
> There is no ash build up behind the ash pan, correct? I found once that with the Oslo ash can accumulate behind the ash pan and while you can shut the ash pan door and latch it, the door does not seal correctly.
> 
> Again . . . probably a very stupid question on my part.



No, I vac it out every time I empty the ash pan.


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Jan 2, 2019)

Different Jotul doors have different washers between certain door pins and hinges.  My Castine was missing the one on the front door and appeared crooked (same not even edge placement on gasket you are seeing).  I spoke to the dealer and they got me the correct washer/placement and it took care of it.

Your dealer should be able to direct you to what washers go where on all the doors.


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## XmasTreefarmer (Jan 2, 2019)

CentralVAWoodHeat said:


> Different Jotul doors have different washers between certain door pins and hinges.  My Castine was missing the one on the front door and appeared crooked (same not even edge placement on gasket you are seeing).  I spoke to the dealer and they got me the correct washer/placement and it took care of it.
> 
> Your dealer should be able to direct you to what washers go where on all the doors.



I've been in touch with Burnmeister on this in a PM.  I sent him the parts breakout for the Oslo showing the two washers for the side load and front door.  He said that there were no washers.  After reading your comment ... the plot thickens!  

The parts diagram shows that the two washers are the same part #.  That's probably not right!  Before I installed my Oslo I went over it with a fine tooth comb.  You only get one chance to see it brand new and unburned, so I wanted to take advantage of that.  I took both doors off to lighten the stove before bringing it into the house and it was by pure luck that I noticed a washer just barely hanging on the side load door pin when I removed it!  I carefully kept that with the door.  Then when I took the front door off, I was watching for a washer - sure enough, there it was and I carefully kept that with that door.  However, the washers are different sizes ... by a fair amount.  The side load door washer is very thin, the front door washer is fairly thick - almost the thickness of a typical washer for a nut and bolt.

Could the assembler at the factory be choosing the right thickness washer during assembly to compensate for differences in the castings?  If so, then any Jotul owner would have "custom" washers for his/her stove.  A really good dealer *might* know about this.

And I think that many stove owners could easily have lost door washers - you take the door off for some reason, most likely gasket replacement, and the washer falls to the floor and is gone.  I picture the guy or gal the next time they vacuum the floor hearing a little click in the vacuum and thinking, "I wonder what that was?"

I'd read somewhere that Jotul uses the washers to protect the enameled stoves.  Without the washer, you have "glass on glass" when you open and close the door and it's going to chip.  Maybe there is a second reason and that it to adjust the door height so that the gasket is aligned with the knife edge on the stove.


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## firefighterjake (Jan 2, 2019)

XmasTreefarmer said:


> I've been in touch with Burnmeister on this in a PM.  I sent him the parts breakout for the Oslo showing the two washers for the side load and front door.  He said that there were no washers.  After reading your comment ... the plot thickens!
> 
> The parts diagram shows that the two washers are the same part #.  That's probably not right!  Before I installed my Oslo I went over it with a fine tooth comb.  You only get one chance to see it brand new and unburned, so I wanted to take advantage of that.  I took both doors off to lighten the stove before bringing it into the house and it was by pure luck that I noticed a washer just barely hanging on the side load door pin when I removed it!  I carefully kept that with the door.  Then when I took the front door off, I was watching for a washer - sure enough, there it was and I carefully kept that with that door.  However, the washers are different sizes ... by a fair amount.  The side load door washer is very thin, the front door washer is fairly thick - almost the thickness of a typical washer for a nut and bolt.
> 
> ...



I think the washer is mainly to align the gasket with the knife edge . . . seeing as I have a matte black painted stove and it had a washer . . . or two.


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## XmasTreefarmer (Jan 2, 2019)

firefighterjake said:


> I think the washer is mainly to align the gasket with the knife edge . . . seeing as I have a matte black painted stove and it had a washer . . . or two.



Gotta agree with you there FireFighter.  My guess is that the person that wrote about the washers being there for that purpose had an enamel stove and that does make sense.  With an enamel stove they are probably doing double duty, but I do think their main duty is alignment of the door.

This is the sort of thing as an Oslo owner, I'd have liked to see included in the Owners Manual.  The washers do seem to be pretty darn important and they would be really easy to lose, so put a section in the manual on Door Removal and address the washers.  This whole missing washer thing makes me realize how lucky I was that I didn't lose one or both washers when I first removed my doors.  And what if they had both fallen off and I found them ... which one went to which door?  

All of this makes me wonder of the average Jotul dealer knows all of this - they should, but do they?


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## Burnmeister (Jan 13, 2019)

Ok, here we go.

Short version: 2 full gasket replacements later I think we got it.


The tech got here and I explained the whole thing in detail and he was in agreement that the stove was pulling air. All over the place. He knew the stove took a 3/8", he said, I'm gonna try a higher density (gold) gasket even though the stove doesn't call for it in the manual.

Tech was able to knock down a start up fire pretty quickly slamming the air shut. Stove got warm, but not hot.
He said give it til later so the cement can set up better. 
Was able to finally start it later that night. A small 3 split load got away from me a little bit, but it was clearly better than it was. It was late, so I just let it go out and deal the next day.
Stove got hot.

Went in it the next morning to inspect. I cleaned up alot of ooze from the amount of cement used and primped up the gasket in spots. Went and bought a new stove top, and an IR gun, went home and fired it up. Been running pretty darn good to this point. I've been holding 450° +/- off and on for about day. The Imperial stove top is reading about 50° cooler than IR.
I'm going to get it a little hotter tomorrow, as I'll be around a little more to play with it.

So I hope we're looking good going forward.


Thank you all for your input and help.


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## XmasTreefarmer (Jan 13, 2019)

Glad to hear that things are working for you again!  These stove "fixes" can be fatiguing/frustrating when you are on try number 2, 3, 4, or 5!

I re-read this entire post and at one time you mentioned an issue with the doors not "lining up" correctly with the knife edge on the stove.  
_"It does not striking in the middle of the door and gasket, ALOT of places its striking the side of the gasket and not creating that U seal"
_
Couple of questions that I have:
1.  Did the tech say anything about this alignment issue that you observed?
2.  Now that it's fixed, do you feel that the issue is fixed by using the "_higher density (gold) gasket_" or is this different gasket masking the alignment issue?

As a first year Oslo burner, I'm trying to learn as much about the stove as I can.  It's been my observation that any wood stove appears deceivingly simple when everything is working - it's just a steel or cast iron box after all!     Where you being to learn the complexities is when it's not working so well.


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## Burnmeister (Jan 15, 2019)

XmasTreefarmer said:


> Glad to hear that things are working for you again!  These stove "fixes" can be fatiguing/frustrating when you are on try number 2, 3, 4, or 5!
> 
> I re-read this entire post and at one time you mentioned an issue with the doors not "lining up" correctly with the knife edge on the stove.
> _"It does not striking in the middle of the door and gasket, ALOT of places its striking the side of the gasket and not creating that U seal"
> ...



I did address the knife edge not striking the door gasket dead center. He said its not likely that you'll ever get the door to strike ths stove like that, and I agree. Its a rudimentary hinge with play in it. 

No question the higher density cord was the cure. Tried the same grey/silver 3/8 cord twice and still was sucking air. I cleaned up the doors before the cordage was put in, so there was no mistaking the points of air entry. 
Also, just looking at the door now. I can see where the gold cord makes contact with the stove; and its all over the place.

The stove is running amazing now. Havn't gone over 500° or had to clean the glass since my last post a few days ago, and heat output and burn times are also clearly better. But even as good as its been running, I'm still a little gun shy to let it rip or really pack it before bed; one too many nail biters.The most I've had in at any one time is 4 medium splits.

Also glad I got the IR gun, and new thermometer, my old one was WAY off.


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## XmasTreefarmer (Jan 16, 2019)

Burnmeister said:


> I did address the knife edge not striking the door gasket dead center. He said its not likely that you'll ever get the door to strike ths stove like that, and I agree. Its a rudimentary hinge with play in it.
> 
> No question the higher density cord was the cure. Tried the same grey/silver 3/8 cord twice and still was sucking air. I cleaned up the doors before the cordage was put in, so there was no mistaking the points of air entry.
> Also, just looking at the door now. I can see where the gold cord makes contact with the stove; and its all over the place.
> ...



So glad that your issue is solved!   I can "hear" the relief in your post!

Thanks for letting me know about how the gasket is hitting the knife edge and what the tech had to say.  This morning I took a good look at the gasket on my side-load door and based on the groove in the gasket  - on the hinge side and the top, it's hitting the knife edge I would say dead-center, on the latch side and the bottom it's a bit towards the edge of the door, but solidly on the gasket.  As you said, it's not a precise hinge and you are matching up two castings - not machined surfaces.  Thanks for sharing your experience and helping me to learn more about my new Oslo.  I feel better knowing about the "gold" gasket that Jotul has available.

And your use of caution in loading the stove until you can fully "believe" the fix is just good common sense!


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