# Consolodated Dutchwest FA264CCL - Very little air coming out of top vents



## beatle78 (Nov 24, 2011)

Hi folks,

Happy Thanksgiving!

I just picked up this stove this week. I grew up with the FA224CCL so I'm sort of familiar with it. 

This came with the fan mounted on the side. There were no plates blocking the bottom vents so I cut out some sheet metal and bolted them on(they're not airtight, but very little air blows by at this point).

I took the Fasco fan off and mounted it to the rear and the airflow is still very low out of the top vents.

Could it be possible that I need to take the top off and reseal around the air chambers? It looks like I may be able to feel some slight airflow coming through the seems where there used to be furnace cement.

Also the rear panel that's held on by 4 bolts. It mounts flush up near the top, but there is a noticeable gap(1/16") towards the bottom near the ash pan. In fact, if I hit the back plate near the bottom some ash dust falls out. See where I circled in yellow in the attached pic.

I have the stove running nice & hot with the cat engaged(not sure of temp b/c the numbers on the gauge are all burnt off) but I am not able to heat an 11'x36' room that it's in at 28F. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
beatle78


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## beatle78 (Nov 24, 2011)

When I took the fan off and turn it on high, it appeared to put out a good amount of air, but I suppose it could be the fan motor. The fan moved freely, but that doesn't mean that the motor is not worn out.


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## defiant3 (Nov 24, 2011)

Taking nthis guy apart may be a can of worms.  Or not, but I think getting the t'stat working would be first.  Once you know quantitatively that there's plenty of heat, that will help.  The old Taiwanese CDW's don't alwayscome apart and go back together well.  I've done many, and I can't explain any better than that, but if you must start taking it down, keep it to a minimum.  Remember that convection happens with or without a blowah...


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## geoxman (Nov 25, 2011)

I have the larger one and I had to take most of mine apart and reseal the furnace cement. I used 3/8 inch rope to seal the top instead of cement so in case I needed to get in there it would not be a PITA. Have you done a leak test on it? good luck


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## raybonz (Nov 25, 2011)

beatle78 said:
			
		

> Hi folks,
> 
> Happy Thanksgiving!
> 
> ...



I owned the exact same stove and sold it a few months ago.. The top comes from the factory sealed with furnace cement and to remove it there are 4 bolts located on the left and right sides of the top plus one inside located dead center in the front under the hot plate on the outer edge.. If you remove the top scrape out all the furnace cement, I used an old screw driver and hammer to chip out all the old cement.. I packed in rope gasket anyplace the gap was large around the cat chamber area.. The area of critical concern is the rectangle area directly around the cat chamber and the rest is just air chamber so pay close attention the cat area.. I would also suggest you look at your bypass damper gasket while you have the top off and yes it goes all the way around.. You must remove the damper to replace the rope gasket. While the top is off you can inspect the gap you're concerned about on back plate in the rear which I believe is just an air chamber for the convection part of the stove.. If you have ashes in there you will need to reseal the back inner firebox seam but I would try to seal it from inside the stove as this could be a major can of worms to disassemble.. If you search here about fa264ccl you'll find lots of info.. These stoves last a very long time if properly cared for..

Good Luck!
Ray


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## beatle78 (Nov 25, 2011)

Thanks guys! This morning I closed the damper while starting the fire and smoke came out of the top in the rear right above the flu outlet & also the front door center seam at the top. I guess that means it's time to pop the top off and scrape
e-cement it. While I have it off, it sounds like it will be a good idea to replace the bypass gasket. I saw the 24 page thread on this stove. It had a lot of great info. I saw the picture where the top was off. Great info!

Can I just clean & re-cement inside the firebox 

In regards to using 3/8" rope gasket instead of furnace cement. How long ago did you do that? Is it more likely to have to be redone sooner than if you used furnace cement?

Thanks!
beatle78


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## raybonz (Nov 25, 2011)

beatle78 said:
			
		

> Thanks guys! This morning I closed the damper while starting the fire and smoke came out of the top in the rear right above the flu outlet & also the front door center seam at the top. I guess that means it's time to pop the top off and scrape
e-cement it. While I have it off, it sounds like it will be a god idea to replace the bypass gasket. I saw the 24 page thread on this stove. It had a lot of great info. I saw the picture where the top was off. Great info!
> 
> Can I just clean & re-cement inside the firebox
> 
> ...



I strongly suggest you check your chimney, cap and flue pipe! I think you have a clogged chimney because with a good draft those seams should be sucking in air not blowing out smoke! I ran into this once and that was the problem.. When was the last time you cleaned your chimney? Have you been burning wood that's not seasoned properly? 

Ray


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## beatle78 (Nov 25, 2011)

raybonz said:
			
		

> beatle78 said:
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Wow, thanks Ray!  So should those seems be sucking in air even if I close the flu damper? I had the ash door open so the massive air intake was helping to get the fire started good. While the ash door was open, I closed the flu damper, this is when the smoke came out of the top rear seam & the front door. I thought maybe that was b/c the massive amount of air intake needed some place to go since I closed the flu damper. 

We just bought the house. I thought the inspector said the chimney looked good, but there is a chimney cap, so I'm not sure how good he could even see it. The flu pipes are all new. I guess I should go up on the roof and check out the chimney myself. My wood is all dead drops from the woods. They are seasoned, but may be damp if it rains before I can get a load into the house.


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## raybonz (Nov 25, 2011)

beatle78 said:
			
		

> raybonz said:
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Ah OK that's a different story..I never used that primary air on my stove and didn't need it either.. I found the 264ccl ran best with the ash bin full too so I never emptied it.. I would not use the flue damper unless you had very heavy winds as the cat gives enough restriction on it's own (I ran that stove without the flue damper for years) .. Sounds like your chimney is OK as it was inspected.. The learning curve on your stove can be steep and i suggest you read the many posts here and it will help you out.. I bet your wood is wet too.. Wet wood will give you more grief than you can imagine and this is the single most important part of the formula to satisfactory wood burning.. I hope Backwoods Savage reads this as he is the authority here on that subject and can explain it better than anyone I know.. I suggest you read through the hearth section here as there is loads of info there..

Ray


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## beatle78 (Nov 25, 2011)

Thanks Ray! My wood is seasoned but it is def damp from all the rain we had here in RI a couple days ago. 

My ashbin is almost full, I'll leave it that way. I'm going to search the forum on how to run the CDW stoves. Thanks again!


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## raybonz (Nov 25, 2011)

beatle78 said:
			
		

> Thanks Ray! My wood is seasoned but it is def damp from all the rain we had here in RI a couple days ago.
> 
> My ashbin is almost full, I'll leave it that way. I'm going to search the forum on how to run the CDW stoves. Thanks again!



Glad I could help! If your wood is damp from the rain it will give you problems.. Get the wood off the ground you can use pallets for this and cover just the top of your stacked wood this way the wind and sun can get to the wood.. If you need a manual for your stove you can download the pdf online here:

http://fergusonfireplace.com/Dutchwest_Pre_90.pdf

Ray


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## beatle78 (Nov 25, 2011)

I'm getting pallets today to stack the wood on! I'm stuck at around 700F right now on the CAT temp. I've had some fires in here where it was around 1200F(based on needle position and a picture that I found online, my temp has all the numbers burnt off)

The hotter fires were probably some of the dry wood from before the rain!


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## raybonz (Nov 25, 2011)

beatle78 said:
			
		

> I'm getting pallets today to stack the wood on! I'm stuck at around 700F right now on the CAT temp. I've had some fires in here where it was around 1200F(based on needle position and a picture that I found online, my temp has all the numbers burnt off)
> 
> The hotter fires were probably some of the dry wood from before the rain!



Interesting my cat thermometer was still legible after running the stove for 23 years makes me wonder if that stove was over-fired.. Take a good look and make sure the inner top is flat and not warped or cracked.. If it is you're better off replacing that stove.. Wet wood will definitely keep the cat cool plus adding wet wood to a fire can cause ceramic cats to crack and crumble due to thermal shock.. BTW the cat thermometer is replaceable if the stove checks out OK.. 

Ray


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## beatle78 (Nov 25, 2011)

Here's a pic of inside the firebox. The top metal plate with holes leading to the cat is warped, but that's just plate steal, not cast iron. Was that what you were referring to or were you talking about the cat iron on the top of the firebox?


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## raybonz (Nov 25, 2011)

beatle78 said:
			
		

> Here's a pic of inside the firebox. The top metal plate with holes leading to the cat is warped, but that's just plate steal, not cast iron. Was that what you were referring to or were you talking about the cat iron on the top of the firebox?



Ok 1st off that plate you're referring to is cast iron and part of the inner top casting which by the way should not have a bolt in it which leads me to believe it got overfired and cracked at some point (that "plate" is the cat air feed or the small brass knob on the stove), 2nd that gizmo with the holes in it is the cat baffle which needs replacing and is around $25.00 (it looks like it's oriented incorrectly, I believe the smallest holes should be nearest the side loading door, 3rd the inside of your stove is shiny black that means you're burning wet wood and that shiny black is creosote not a problem in the stove but a problem in your chimney for sure.. I messaged Backwoods Savage about wood so he can shed light on that subject.. Thanx for picture it spoke volumes to me..

Ray


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## beatle78 (Nov 25, 2011)

You're right. It looked like plate steal fro the top. OK So here's the replacement baffle: http://www.blackswanhome.com/product/baffle-consolidated-dutchwest

Are you saying that bolt in the cat air supply box should not be there?


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## raybonz (Nov 25, 2011)

beatle78 said:
			
		

> You're right. It looked like plate steal fro the top. OK So here's the replacement baffle: http://www.blackswanhome.com/product/baffle-consolidated-dutchwest
> 
> Are you saying that bolt in the cat air supply box should not be there?



Yup no bolt there.. Not sure what that means.. I wonder if they cracked that air supply then bolted a plate to it? I don't recall a bolt being there.. I do know the inner top is not a part you can buy any more.. I upgraded this year because of the obsolescence issue plus I just wanted a new stove for other reasons.. If you can make it safe it could carry you through the winter.. As for the cat baffle it's main purpose is to prevent flame impingement to the cat so you may be OK to leave the baffle as-is for now..

Ray


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## beatle78 (Nov 25, 2011)

Thanks, I think I'm going to pop the top and reseal it, maybe a new gasket. Re-rope the doors then let the wood dry out and see how it goes for this winter.

Thanks for all the help!


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## beatle78 (Nov 28, 2011)

ok, I took the top off. After I clean all old cement out, it looks like I redo some inner seams, but as far as the top goes, do I just fill in all the grooves on top and then flips it over and put it into place?

Also, they didn't use any cement around the outer air ducts so air can seep out of those gaps instead of going out the front air ducts. Should I seal the entire top? Or just the inner firebox portion like they did in the factory?


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## raybonz (Nov 28, 2011)

beatle78 said:
			
		

> ok, I took the top off. After I clean all old cement out, it looks like I redo some inner seams, but as far as the top goes, do I just fill in all the grooves on top and then flips it over and put it into place?
> 
> Also, they didn't use any cement around the outer air ducts so air can seep out of those gaps instead of going out the front air ducts. Should I seal the entire top? Or just the inner firebox portion like they did in the factory?



I sealed the whole top but I don't understand the air duct part.. If you post some pics it will be easier to see what you are referring to in your post..

Ray


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## beatle78 (Nov 28, 2011)

See in this pic. The yellow is where the factory applied the cement. The red area where the air ducts are had no cement. I noticed a good amount of air leakage through the sides before I took the top off. Now I know why.


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## raybonz (Nov 29, 2011)

beatle78 said:
			
		

> See in this pic. The yellow is where the factory applied the cement. The red area where the air ducts are had no cement. I noticed a good amount of air leakage through the sides before I took the top off. Now I know why.



Odd my stove was the same exact one and they had cement around the whole thing.. It will not hurt anything to just seal the cat area but if it were me I would and did seal the whole top on.. Thanx for posting the pic.. Did you look at the bypass damper gasket? It would be easy to do that now that the top is off if it needs replacing..

Ray


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## beatle78 (Nov 29, 2011)

Ok, I agree. I'm going to seal the entire top.

I'm going to replace the gasket. I couldn't even see it. I'll have to take the damper out in order to even see the gasket.

THANKS!


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## beatle78 (Dec 1, 2011)

I have the damper gasket all chiseled out. I think it's pretty decent. I sealed all the inner seams of the cat chamber with furnace cement last night. It was still pretty softmoist in most areas this morning. Some had setup pretty good, dry & hard.

It's 3/8" rope gasket for the damper & all the doors on this stove, right? The guy before me used 1/2" gasket on all the doors.


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## raybonz (Dec 1, 2011)

beatle78 said:
			
		

> I have the damper gasket all chiseled out. I think it's pretty decent. I sealed all the inner seams of the cat chamber with furnace cement last night. It was still pretty softmoist in most areas this morning. Some had setup pretty good, dry & hard.
> 
> It's 3/8" rope gasket for the damper & all the doors on this stove, right? The guy before me used 1/2" gasket on all the doors.



I think he used the right gasket.. Earlier in this post I posted a link to the PDF manual for your stove it has all the info about what size gasket and where to use and how much you need.. Save this manual to your PC for reference.. I am pretty sure the doors are 1/2" and the bypass is 3/8" but read the manual to be sure..

Ray


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## beatle78 (Dec 2, 2011)

raybonz said:
			
		

> beatle78 said:
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Thanks! I just read that manual and it is 1/2"!


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## beatle78 (Dec 2, 2011)

update: The new damper gasket is in, the channels are the inside of the cat chamber and air duct chamber have been sealed. (see pics)

Tonight, I'll be cementing the top back on and redoing the door gaskets.


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## raybonz (Dec 2, 2011)

beatle78 said:
			
		

> update: The new damper gasket is in, the channels are the inside of the cat chamber and air duct chamber have been sealed. (see pics)
> 
> Tonight, I'll be cementing the top back on and redoing the door gaskets.



You're getting there! I also suggest you use furnace cement to seal the cast iron flue pipe adapter to the stove as there is no gasket there.. I advise you be careful to *NOT* get furnace cement on the bolt threads to the cast iron adapter because it's hard to get the bolts out.. Get rid of those lousy flat head screws while you're at it (they are a b!tch to remove if and when the slots get chewed up and they will)and replace them with Allen cap bolts with flat washers and be sure to use NeverSeize on the threads.. I speak about all of these things from experience..

Ray


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## beatle78 (Dec 3, 2011)

The top is back on. I thought I put a lot of furnace cement in the grooves, not I'm wondering if I put enough! I hope so.

I put cement around the flu connector piece. I didn't take it off.

Next is the door gaskets!


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## raybonz (Dec 3, 2011)

Great you'll be burning soon! People bad talk these stoves and they can be a PIA to learn but they last forever if treated properly.. The CDW is a nice looking stove but I found my PE Alderlea T-5 much easier to learn plus it makes more heat and gives long burns too.. 

Ray


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## beatle78 (Dec 3, 2011)

Thanks for the help Ray! I love the looks of these stoves. We had the 224 growing up(my dad still has it stored away). I have the bug now & I'm already thinking of burning this and looking for a 2461 in the future! 

All the gaskets are done. I'm going to let this cure overnight and start a small non cat fire in the morning(directions say to use a small fire to help the cement cure)


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## raybonz (Dec 3, 2011)

beatle78 said:
			
		

> Thanks for the help Ray! I love the looks of these stoves. We had the 224 growing up(my dad still has it stored away). I have the bug now & I'm already thinking of burning this and looking for a 2461 in the future!
> 
> All the gaskets are done. I'm going to let this cure overnight and start a small non cat fire in the morning(directions say to use a small fire to help the cement cure)



Glad I could help! Look forward to the pics we will be looking for them 

Ray


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## beatle78 (Dec 3, 2011)

pics will be up shortly! 

I'm thinking of taking out the new 1/2" side door gasket and replacing it with 3/8". I can't get the 1/2" to squish enough on the hinge side to make a tight seal on the latch side. There a noticeable air gap on the corner and going down the latch side. I have to put all my weight against the door to get it to appear to seal.


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## raybonz (Dec 3, 2011)

beatle78 said:
			
		

> pics will be up shortly!
> 
> I'm thinking of taking out the new 1/2" side door gasket and replacing it with 3/8". I can't get the 1/2" to squish enough on the hinge side to make a tight seal on the latch side. There a noticeable air gap on the corner and going down the latch side. I have to put all my weight against the door to get it to appear to seal.



I used what the manual recommends.. Make sure you're using the standard density and *NOT* the high density rope or you will have trouble.. Your door latch is adjustable and may require adjustment with a new gasket..

Ray


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## beatle78 (Dec 3, 2011)

Thanks, I adjusted the latch a bit and put some weight behind closing it & it appears to have sealed now.

I'm getting cement bubbling out of the front on top. That can't be good. I choked the fire so it would die down. I didn't engage the cat yet to keep temps down.(see pic)


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## raybonz (Dec 3, 2011)

beatle78 said:
			
		

> Thanks, I adjusted the latch a bit and put some weight behind closing it & it appears to have sealed now.
> 
> I'm getting cement bubbling out of the front on top. That can't be good. I choked the fire so it would die down. I didn't engage the cat yet to keep temps down.(see pic)



I wouldn't worry about as long as the cat chamber is sealed you should be OK.. You can clean off the excess furnace cement.. The "bubbling" you're seeing is the moisture being driven from the furnace cement and that will stop pretty quickly.. 

Ray


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## raybonz (Dec 7, 2011)

beatle78 said:
			
		

> Thanks, I adjusted the latch a bit and put some weight behind closing it & it appears to have sealed now.
> 
> I'm getting cement bubbling out of the front on top. That can't be good. I choked the fire so it would die down. I didn't engage the cat yet to keep temps down.(see pic)



Just wondering how the stove is coming along there..

Ray


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## beatle78 (Dec 8, 2011)

Ok, the stove seem to be running really well. I need to get a new t-stat for the cat so I can tell exactly what temps I'm running. By my estimations I think I'm consistently running between 800F-1200F.

The stove radiates a ton of heat, but I feel like I don't get a lot of convection air out of the top air outlets. I blocked off the bottom air outlets with sheet metal when I first bought it. The fan has been oiled and appears to be running just fine. My dad thinks that his stove never put out a ton of air so maybe it's the design of this stove. I couldn't try his fan b/c the fan was frozen from sitting for so long in a moist environment. 

The stove that I just got rid of pushed much more convection air out of it. I need the convection air to get the air moving in my setup, otherwise the heat just seems to sit around the stove.

Thoughts?


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## raybonz (Dec 8, 2011)

beatle78 said:
			
		

> Ok, the stove seem to be running really well. I need to get a new t-stat for the cat so I can tell exactly what temps I'm running. By my estimations I think I'm consistently running between 800F-1200F.
> 
> The stove radiates a ton of heat, but I feel like I don't get a lot of convection air out of the top air outlets. I blocked off the bottom air outlets with sheet metal when I first bought it. The fan has been oiled and appears to be running just fine. My dad thinks that his stove never put out a ton of air so maybe it's the design of this stove. I couldn't try his fan b/c the fan was frozen from sitting for so long in a moist environment.
> 
> ...



I had a 3000 rpm blower on my CDW and it didn't move anywhere near as much as my T-5 plus it's much quieter.. Just how it is, I also find the T-5 is much better at convection than the CDW..

Ray


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## beatle78 (Dec 9, 2011)

I wonder how the CDW 2461 is? I really like these stoves, but it may not work for my application.

My dad has the 224. If that has the same CFM fan it would push much more heat than my 264 b/c his air chamber is smaller than mine. 

Is the T-5 a front load only? It looks nice! I can't stand how contemporary the Blaze Kings look.


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## raybonz (Dec 9, 2011)

beatle78 said:
			
		

> I wonder how the CDW 2461 is? I really like these stoves, but it may not work for my application.
> 
> My dad has the 224. If that has the same CFM fan it would push much more heat than my 264 b/c his air chamber is smaller than mine.
> 
> Is the T-5 a front load only? It looks nice! I can't stand how contemporary the Blaze Kings look.



The 2461 is similar to your stove with slightly higher BTU output and a bit more refined.. It is made in USA and is a wood only stove.. I looked at them when i was stove shopping and thought they were well made and a good value but I felt they would lack the punch the T-5 provides. I don't know what they use for a blower but suspect it would be similar to what you have now? http://www.cozycabinstoveandfireplaceparts.com/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=0009973 Try posting in the hearth room as there are people that have those stoves there..

As for the T-5 yes it is front loading only but this is an advantage when it comes to convection heating because the sides have an air space on the sides and also the back.. I find they distribute the warm air in many directions and not just the front so the room and house heat very well as a result.. Blaze Kings are good heaters but they are not my style.. People here love them so they are good stoves..

Ray


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## beatle78 (Dec 9, 2011)

Thanks! I opened up the side door a bit more yesterday and I got it cooking a bit more. It seemed to be putting out more heat. I'll stick with this for this winter & just start doing research on other types of catalytic stoves.


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## beatle78 (Dec 9, 2011)

FYI, Above I meant to say side door AIR, not the actual side door, lol


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## raybonz (Dec 9, 2011)

beatle78 said:
			
		

> FYI, Above I meant to say side door AIR, not the actual side door, lol



Yup I understood that  Like I mentioned that stove, at least for me ran best with the ashbin full and only used the side door and cat air to control the stove.. Compared to my T-5 it's much trickier to run.. The T-5 is ridiculously easy to operate and the learning curve very short.. 

Ray


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## beatle78 (Dec 9, 2011)

Thanks, I've been doing what you suggested. I only open the ash door to get the fire going. Once it's been roaring for about 10 minutes, I shut it down and only use the side door air. I haven't figured out when to use the cat air yet. Any advice on that?

Maybe I need that when I close the side door air down for the night time burns?

Are you lost with no controls to tinker with every day? lol


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## raybonz (Dec 9, 2011)

beatle78 said:
			
		

> Thanks, I've been doing what you suggested. I only open the ash door to get the fire going. Once it's been roaring for about 10 minutes, I shut it down and only use the side door air. I haven't figured out when to use the cat air yet. Any advice on that?
> 
> Maybe I need that when I close the side door air down for the night time burns?
> 
> Are you lost with no controls to tinker with every day? lol



LOL not lost just so much better  One lever controls primary and secondary air.. On the 264ccl I do NOT advise to use underfire air as you could overfire and cause stove damage or worse.. Keep the ashbin door and its' damper closed and control the fire with the secondary side door air.. Cat air leave open just a crack and for longer overnight burns close the cat air damper and crack open the secondary air.. The problem I encounterd with the 264ccl is the wife would have the friggin stove smouldering for hrs. because the cat never got up to temp so I'd load up with creosote, not a good thing.. As long as she was warm she figured all was well but it wasn't!! This was one big reason for a new stove and the simpler the better.. I have no regrets with this stove and if anything it gets too warm in here now lol.. Last night I loaded up the stove at 9PM and 8 hrs. later I had a big pile of glowing coals that easily would have relit the fire but it was still 75 degrees throughout the house and the blower kept running until 10AM! The outside temp here was 28 degrees and I let the house cool off lol.. To think I was concerned if this stove was big enough..

Ray


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## beatle78 (Dec 9, 2011)

lol, that's awesome! We like our house around 75F, but in our new much bigger house, I would go broke trying to keep it at that temp. 

Just to clarify, I open up the ashbin door when lighting the fire only. Once it's going, I shut it down completely in the front. I only use the side door air from there. Thanks, I'll try playing with the cat air based on your recommendations above. 

Congrats on the new stove! Sounds like a gem


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## raybonz (Dec 9, 2011)

beatle78 said:
			
		

> lol, that's awesome! We like our house around 75F, but in our new much bigger house, I would go broke trying to keep it at that temp.
> 
> Just to clarify, I open up the ashbin door when lighting the fire only. Once it's going, I shut it down completely in the front. I only use the side door air from there. Thanks, I'll try playing with the cat air based on your recommendations above.
> 
> Congrats on the new stove! Sounds like a gem



Things will be different there so you need to find what works best for you.. 

Ray


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## beatle78 (Dec 11, 2011)

Update: I've been getting quite a bit of heat out the stove. I was in the teens this morning and is only ~30F here right now. My large living room is almost 75F, the other downstairs rooms are mid to upper 60s. 
Now this is the stove that I remember growing up. I think the only thing that changed was that the wood is dryer. The wood is very seasoned, but can be damp, sometimes wet. I lay the wood around the stove to dry it out before I burn it. I always have a supply of really dry wood to put in the stove. 

I have all the air shutdown right now and temp temp gauge is 180 degrees around(there are no numbers, so I'm guessing it's around 1200F based on the image on this picture. http://www.blackswanhome.com/product/th3-probe-thermometer-consolidated-dutchwest

If anyone comes across a 264 that being sold for parts, I need the two plates that block the bottom air intake in the front. I used sheet metal for now, but I would love to get my hands on the actual cast plates that go there.


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## geoxman (Dec 11, 2011)

I don't know how many CFM your fan is pushing now but I bought one of these for $40 on the larger 288 and it pushes out plenty of air and is about 1/6 the price of the CDW fan. You might want to give it a try for $40. good luck

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?catname=&item=16-1404


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## raybonz (Dec 11, 2011)

geoxman said:
			
		

> I don't know how many CFM your fan is pushing now but I bought one of these for $40 on the larger 288 and it pushes out plenty of air and is about 1/6 the price of the CDW fan. You might want to give it a try for $40. good luck
> 
> http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?catname=&item=16-1404



That's a good price Geo I used the Dayton version of that fan.. These blowers tend to be noisy and reducing airflow helps to reduce the noise.. The blower on the T-5 cost 6X what that blower cost but it is much quieter, moves more air, has a T-stat and manual override.. 

Ray


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## beatle78 (Dec 19, 2011)

The stove has been pumping out a good amount of heat. I guess I've been spoiled by the high CFM fans that they put in coal stokers. That's what my most recent experience is with. This stove with the 60CFM fan still puts out a lot of heat, it just doesn't move the heat around as fast as other stoves with high cfm fans.

It's running like a champ & i'm glad I took the top off to rebuild it. 

I think I'm going to replace the warped fire shield below the cat. It gets in the way of me loading up the fire box b/c it sticks down several inches.


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## raybonz (Dec 20, 2011)

Sounds like you're doing well there! That baffle is easy to replace and around 25 bucks.. I added washers to the bolts that hold the baffle in place and neverseize on the threads.. 


Ray


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