# Sub Compact Tractors



## JDC1 (Mar 14, 2012)

After battling the soggy ground with my Zero Turn Mower the past two years, my wife and I have decided to look into a 4x4 SCUT.  I mow about 4 acres of uneven, rolling lawn that in the spring turns into a swamp.  The Zero Turn Mower is great when the lawn is completely dry but I am sick of sliding and getting stuck.

I am in the process of looking at Kubota and JD with a mid mount mower and a front end loader.  I am in process of clearing out some old fence row and would like to run a box blade, rake and small brush hog.  

I have Kubota and JD close and am looking at the 1026R and the BX2660.

Does anyone have any experience with either tractor or comparable.  Anyone go from a Zero Turn to the MMM on a Sub Compact?  

Thanks.


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## smoke show (Mar 14, 2012)

I have a 2003 Kubota L5030 with FEL and many attachments.

It was purchased brand new by my family and I have used it since day one and now am the sole owner of it.

I do not finish mow with it, but it has seen its fair share of hard work.

Nowadays it mostly flail mows, snow removal, rototills, and whatever I may need the loader for.

Have a snow blade, bucket, and pallet forks for the loader.(quick attach)

Rear blade, rototiller, box blade, disc, spring and spike tooth drags, flail mower and cultipacker for the back.

It has about 700hrs on it now and has not needed anything other than normal maintenance.

So far my biggest complaint would be the cost of the genuine Kubota fluids. $$$

Its bigger than the B series you mentioned but bulletproof.

Internet pic of a L5030.


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## JDC1 (Mar 14, 2012)

We only have 5.5 acres.  As much as I would like to justify a bigger tractor it just doesn't make sense.  I will be doing some landscaping, driveway maintenance but mostly mowing.  I really like the way the Deere implements attach and detach as my wife would like to be able to use them when I am busy or not home.  I still need to look at the botas in person.


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## mithesaint (Mar 14, 2012)

If the ground is pretty soggy, you might want to consider the weight of the tractor.  I'm in the same boat, except that my acreage is perfectly flat.  I'd love to get a small tractor, but I'm afraid of what the extra weight would do.  I have an older garden tractor that weighs about 700 lbs (JD 212) and that sometimes leaves tracks if the ground is a little soft.  I hate to think of what a 1500 lb tractor would do.

Have you ever tried more aggressive tires on your ZTR?  I've been tossing around the idea myself, but haven't gotten to it yet.


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## JDC1 (Mar 14, 2012)

We have considered different tires but want the utility factor of the tractor and loader.  We purchased the zero turn right after we moved in and did not consider diying the things that we are doing.  I am worried about rutting as well and might do turf tires if we decide on a tractor.  The other option we might be able to do its purchase the tractor and keep the ztr.


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## SolarAndWood (Mar 14, 2012)

Even with turf tires, my little Kubota made a mess if it was wet.  Always had enough power to mow it down after it dried out a little though.


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## smoke show (Mar 14, 2012)

JDC1 said:
			
		

> As much as I would like to justify a bigger tractor it just doesn't make sense.



My post was more or less a testimonial to the reliability, not pushing bigger tractors.

my .02


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## JDC1 (Mar 14, 2012)

smoke show said:
			
		

> JDC1 said:
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Thanks for the insight.


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## begreen (Mar 14, 2012)

I have even less acreage, but would love to have a tractor that can deal with field mowing, yet handle yard mowing. And with a small FEL for moving wood, compost, and a tiller. Does anyone have a Kubota BX series tractor or equivalent that is working well for them?


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## MasterMech (Mar 14, 2012)

Even a SCUT on turf tires is going to trash a "swampy" yard.  I'd keep the ZTR and buy a pair of HDAP or Ag-style tires for it.

Here's what a HDAP tire looks like....  

http://www.carlisletire.com/products/atv/hd_field_trax/index.html


Absolute most annoying thing about the Kubota BX tractors is that they have no hydraulic power at idle.  You MUST bring the throttle up to 1/3 or more just to move the loader/backhoe/hitch etc.  Great machines otherwise.

New 1000 series Deere's are still too fresh for me to form any hard opinions so far.  Some of the cost cutting that they've done is disapointing like the lawn-tractor key switch (not even a nice one!) and the econo-stick loader control.  But having seen one with much of the skin removed, I like what's under there.  The new plastics for the hood/fenders/platform are fantastic and a huge improvement over previous models with painted steel panels.  The new panels are made out of the same indestructible stuff they use on the bigger machines.

IIRC the 200X/200CX loaders are vastly superior to the Kubota BX loader in just about every way.  Especially lift height and bucket break-out force.


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## SolarAndWood (Mar 14, 2012)

MasterMech said:
			
		

> I'd keep the ZTR and buy a pair of HDAP or Ag-style tires for it.



Seems you are consistently biased against using a SCUT or CUT as a lawn mower even if it is a hydro and easy to shed the weight?


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## billb3 (Mar 14, 2012)

Seems like a lot of people who cut lawn with a CUT either with a belly mower or otherwise often get a Zturn for the extra speed and better finish and less tendency to rut a soft lawn.

I know even with turf tires I'll rut my lawn if I don't wait until it is fairly dry and I live on a gravel hill. 4WD will tear it up right quick, too. I can't imagine trying to cut my lawn with my JD2520.


A lightweight golf course mower might make more sense if it's really that wet and soft and a Z - turn is  sinking in.
Maybe wider tires ?


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## JDC1 (Mar 14, 2012)

The JD 1026R is advertised as 9mph top speed, about the same as my ZTR.  If I go the tractor route, I will be going from a 52" deck to a 60" belly mower.  Do you guys think there will be much of a time difference between the two.  Will the diesel SCUT cut deeper grass better than the ZTR?  If I were to get a walk behind to compliment the SCUT would that work well?

With our yard, the tractor seems like a more versatile tool than a dedicated mower.


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## JDC1 (Mar 14, 2012)

I think I will check into the different tires for the ZTR.  I have the stock tires on now and am not really a fan.  When it is wet even the front wheels dig.


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## lukem (Mar 14, 2012)

SolarAndWood said:
			
		

> MasterMech said:
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I've got to agree with MM.  A ZTR with proper tires is pretty capable in the wet stuff with minimal rutting.  A SCUT is going to leave some major ruts no matter how much weight you drop.  My ZTR has 12" wide turf tires on the rear that float over about anything...and the mower itself weighs 1,100 lbs.  I'm not afraid of getting it in the mud and not being able to get back out.  

For reference, I'm running a Bad Boy Pup 60" w/ 31 HP Kawasaki.


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## Jack Straw (Mar 14, 2012)

What about a large garden tractor with 4 wheel drive?


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## Highbeam (Mar 14, 2012)

I mow large acreage, well large to me at about 7 acres, with my 4500 lb tractor dragging a rotary cutter. I also mow about one acre of lawn around my house. There are several types of grass areas that need to be classified here. I have a hard time believing that any of us have 5 acres of golf course putting green style manicured lawn around our homes. Is that the case? 

I am a fan of having about an acre of the land closest to your home being a well manicured lawn. That is, without big ruts and kept short and soft. This area is mowed with a riding mower or a ztr. Get away from the lawn and into the pasture and you can do a fine job of maintenance with a rotary cutter and sharpened blades behind a tractor. Don't cut it until the ground is firm enough.


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## JDC1 (Mar 14, 2012)

Jack Straw said:
			
		

> What about a large garden tractor with 4 wheel drive?



I looked at them, the deeres have 4 wheel steering as well and look really handy for mowing.  I want to be able to use pto driven implements and by the time you get a loader and 3 pt. on the 7 series, the price is really close to the 1 series.


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## Gasifier (Mar 14, 2012)

I own a Simplicity Broadmoor. Excellent lawn machine. It has automatic controlled traction in the rear end. Very handy when things are slippery. When your one drive tire starts to spin it engages the other one.

I almost traded it in on a Legacy 4WD in the link below. But I decided to keep my Broadmoor and go with a larger tractor so that I could complete some larger jobs that I want to do. Bought a Kubota L3710 4WD with a Kubota Loader and Woods sub-frame mount backhoe. Found a nice used one so I didn't have to spend crazy money.

The Legacy is expensive. But you can do just about anything with it, and it is not too big if you do not need a large tractor. Gasoline and deisel options. F.E.L., three point hitch, p.t.o. with all kinds of attachments. With, or without a belly mower, three different sizes available. Like I said, expensive. But really well built machines, made right here in the U.S. I'm a believer in "You get what you pay for." 

http://www.simplicitymfg.com/products/yard-and-garden-tractors/legacy-xl/


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## semipro (Mar 14, 2012)

I think you've gotten some good advice regarding the potential rutting that a SCUT/CUT will do to turf.  
I have a JD 3032e with a finish mower and various riding mowers.  
The tractor can make a real mess of turf when its wet whether in 4WD or not and our yard is relatively firm.  4WD actually contributes to rutting when turning but minimizes it when going straight. 

Maybe you could keep the ZTR and put chains or different tires on it and buy the tractor?
Use the ZTR for mowing when its wet and the tractor when its not. 


An unsolicited recommendation on the tractor....go hydro.


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## JDC1 (Mar 15, 2012)

Semipro said:
			
		

> I think you've gotten some good advice regarding the potential rutting that a SCUT/CUT will do to turf.
> I have a JD 3032e with a finish mower and various riding mowers.
> The tractor can make a real mess of turf when its wet whether in 4WD or not and our yard is relatively firm.  4WD actually contributes to rutting when turning but minimizes it when going straight.
> 
> ...



Great Advice, as usual hearth.com comes through.  Thanks for everyones input.


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## MasterMech (Mar 15, 2012)

SolarAndWood said:
			
		

> MasterMech said:
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No matter what you do to the tractor it's never going to get as light as a ZTR.  No matter what you do to the ZTR, it's never going to be as strong as the tractor. ;-)


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## MasterMech (Mar 15, 2012)

billb3 said:
			
		

> Seems like a lot of people who cut lawn with a CUT either with a belly mower or otherwise often get a Zturn for the extra speed and better finish and less tendency to rut a soft lawn.
> 
> I know even with turf tires I'll rut my lawn if I don't wait until it is fairly dry and I live on a gravel hill. 4WD will tear it up right quick, too. I can't imagine trying to cut my lawn with my JD2520.
> 
> ...



Unfortunately most of the "lightweight" golf mowers are reel mowers and I doubt the OP wants the constant maintenance that comes with that.  Plus reel mowers, even those designed for rough, SUCK in muddy conditions since the reels do not float over the ground.  Usually the rollers pack with mud/grass and then it's game over.  Golf course rotary mowers are designed to mow small amounts of grass every couple days.  Not take a big bite once a week.  Ask a Sidewinder or other "trim/surround" mower to mow wet/heavy grass and the result is going to be less than attractive.  I guarantee you're going to be upset when your neighbor mows with a $800 lawn tractor and his machine cuts better!


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## SIERRADMAX (Mar 16, 2012)

Check out a 4wd zero turn by Dixie Chopper.
http://www.dixiechopper.com/mowers/xcaliber-4x4


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## JDC1 (Mar 16, 2012)

That thing is sweet.


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## billb3 (Mar 16, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Unfortunately most of the "lightweight" golf mowers are reel mowers and I doubt the OP wants the constant maintenance that comes with that. Plus reel mowers, even those designed for rough, SUCK in muddy conditions since the reels do not float over the ground. Usually the rollers pack with mud/grass and then it's game over. Golf course rotary mowers are designed to mow small amounts of grass every couple days. Not take a big bite once a week. Ask a Sidewinder or other "trim/surround" mower to mow wet/heavy grass and the result is going to be less than attractive. I guarantee you're going to be upset when your neighbor mows with a $800 lawn tractor and his machine cuts better!


I live between a swamp and a golf course. My brother-in-law manages the golf course property . I borrow some equipment every now and then. I know what a reel mower is.


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## maple1 (Mar 16, 2012)

If you are considering a tractor simply for easier mowing of soft/wet ground - it might mow easier, but will tear the crap out of your lawn, especially the front wheels on a 4wd.

Maybe buy the tractor & use it to improve the drainage situation so your ZTM will work better?

(Trying to justify a tractor puchase - everyone should have one  )


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## greg13 (Mar 16, 2012)

Not real impressed with the JD compact line. We have problems with "stupid stuff", like metal hyd. lines bursting, leaks in front wheel housings, brackets breaking from vibration, Things that just should not be problems on a 4 yr. old machine.


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## begreen (Mar 16, 2012)

greg13 said:


> Not real impressed with the JD compact line. We have problems with "stupid stuff", like metal hyd. lines bursting, leaks in front wheel housings, brackets breaking from vibration, Things that just should not be problems on a 4 yr. old machine.


Are there any compact tractor lines that are standing up well and worth looking into?


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## JDC1 (Mar 17, 2012)

I think I am trying to justify a tractor and keep the zero turn.  The wife doesn't want to hear it as I got a new truck in November.  Sometimes they just don't understand.  All that I have to do is let her test drive one and it will be in our barn within a week.

I stopped in and looked at the Kubota B2320 and B2660 series yesterday and think I like the Kubota just as well as the Deere 2320 and 2520.  This being a first time purchase, I am a little confused on what I "need" and what I want on the smaller features and layout of the controls.  The Kubota has a 3 speed HST and looks like it has more ground clearance over the deere.  The Deere seems to have more lift capacity on the FEL and position control on the rear 3 point.   The Kubota also has metal hood and fenders.


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## smoke show (Mar 17, 2012)

The first time you lose something out of the FEL and it bounces off the hood you'll appreciate metal.

just sayin.


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## greg13 (Mar 17, 2012)

The Loader is where we have the problems with burst hyd. tubes. The dealer's exact words were "your are trying to dig with it" HELLO?? What do you think a loader is for, to drive around with to look cool when you mow the lawn??? There is a serious over pressurization problem in the system, the tube actually blow OUT. The dealer said he has seen it happen on more than one machine, that tells me there is a problem somewhere.


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## JDC1 (Mar 17, 2012)

JD is claiming almost 250lbs more FEL Lift capacity over the Kubota.


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## smoke show (Mar 17, 2012)

At the expense of ruptured lines.


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## begreen (Mar 17, 2012)

I'm wondering if this is an overpressurization problem or lower quality hydraulic tubing coming from overseas? In our local water system we have to be careful to get piping made here. The imported stuff splits which is a real bummer with buried pipe.


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## MasterMech (Mar 17, 2012)

greg13 said:


> The Loader is where we have the problems with burst hyd. tubes. The dealer's exact words were "your are trying to dig with it" HELLO?? What do you think a loader is for, to drive around with to look cool when you mow the lawn??? There is a serious over pressurization problem in the system, the tube actually blow OUT. The dealer said he has seen it happen on more than one machine, that tells me there is a problem somewhere.


 

Hey greg, what machine/loader do you have?   Sounds like either faulty lines or a non-functioning/faulty pressure relief valve.


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## MasterMech (Mar 17, 2012)

begreen said:


> Are there any compact tractor lines that are standing up well and worth looking into?


 
Blue, green, orange, take your pick.  They are just like stoves in that most of the product produced is very good and comes down to personal preference.  Parts availability now and 20 years from now, operator ergonomics, ease of attachment mounting  should all be main considerations.


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## greg13 (Mar 17, 2012)

We have a 3320, It's a rental machine. I expect the "Normal" stupid customer damage like smashed panels and tire problems, but this is stuff that if I TOLD you to damage how would go about doing it? But I have also learned NEVER challenge a customer, they win every time.

The relief valve works, but I think there is a quirk or engineering oops somewhere that bypasses the relief when you are scraping with the bucket. Our's is not the only one doing it according to the dealer.

I agree, there is no machine that is 100% perfect, but JD has a reputation to uphold and I simply think they just don't care. We have a new 10,000# excavator coming in soon, It will be interesting to see how that holds up.


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## J2610 (Mar 18, 2012)

I ended up finding this very interesting thread on a search for my problem, which is very close to JDC1's original issue.  I too have a ZT; it is a JD 997 at 1800 lbs. (!)  I like to keep what is approx 2 acres around the house with a finished cut.  I also have a Kubota L2350 with a 5' shredder on the back (brush hog as most call it).  The L2350 is a weaker engine version of the same L2800 or L3400 sold today.  The problem I have is the ground and the wife.  Well, actually neither is a true problem if I don't want help by another operator.  The ZT has a 72" deck which is great with up to moderate length grass and solid ground, but any grass that is longer or heavy-moisture clogs up the deck and it does not blow the cuttings well.  Then there is soft ground -- most of my area has a slight-to-moderate slope so that is fine, but the lower, flatter, stuff can get soft or sometimes muddy for a few says after rain which is when the ZT fails.  The ZT is also poor when heading downhill when grass or soil is slick.  This is when the wife says no.  She also says no to the Kubota with the shredder because she doesn't like looking backwards or trying to do corners with it.  So I think I am looking for something with 4x4 and a deck, but for our use I don't need a FEL on the mower because I have FEL on my two big tractors.

So JDC1, here is my 2 cents: keep the ZT, just as you are thinking and buy a SCUT or CUT with 4x4 and FEL.  I think you will find many more time and effort-saving uses for it than you can think of today, especially if it has a 3 point and PTO.  But I learned the hard way that the 100% plastic hoods that some manuf like JD puts on their lawn mowers will shatter all by themselves after 10 years.  They are not fiberglass like what they use on their larger stuff.  But if all is the same, choose metal.  My old tractor had a concrete block fall 5 feet onto it's hood, leaving a deep dent.  But I was able to flatten it out with a hammer and anvil, then re-paint.  Fiberglass and plastic are not as forgiving.  I think you are on the right track.


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## J2610 (Mar 18, 2012)

I forgot to include comment about tires.  Going back to your original post, it seems unlikely that your terrain is going to change, so you will always have periods of "high water content", so when you get your SCUT/CUT, get it with ag/R1/bar tires.  I have found that aggressive tires do no harm to grasses as long as they don't spin.  And they are less likely to spin due to their extra grip.  On a ZT, you often pivot on one tire, so ag tires are not a good choice there.  But with a 4x4, my advice would be the ag tires, but disengage 4WD when navigating corners if you are using 4WD on other areas.  The bars on the tires may push grass into to soft ground, but the grass recovers quickly and the tracks disappear entirely after a little while.  This is a much better condition than two "spinning tire ruts" left by a machine trying to get through a soft area.


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## JDC1 (Mar 18, 2012)

J2610 said:


> I forgot to include comment about tires. Going back to your original post, it seems unlikely that your terrain is going to change, so you will always have periods of "high water content", so when you get your SCUT/CUT, get it with ag/R1/bar tires. I have found that aggressive tires do no harm to grasses as long as they don't spin. And they are less likely to spin due to their extra grip. On a ZT, you often pivot on one tire, so ag tires are not a good choice there. But with a 4x4, my advice would be the ag tires, but disengage 4WD when navigating corners if you are using 4WD on other areas. The bars on the tires may push grass into to soft ground, but the grass recovers quickly and the tracks disappear entirely after a little while. This is a much better condition than two "spinning tire ruts" left by a machine trying to get through a soft area.


 
J2610, have you looked into the JD X500 or X700 series, they have 4 wheel steering and 4x4.


Thanks for the advice.  I have the same issue with the Zero Turn not dispersing the clumps if the grass is to wet or high.  After looking at and pricing the B series from Kubota, I think this is the way we are going.  I like the gauges better and it feels more solid than the deere.  I got the zero turn out on Saturday morning to mow some of the yard.  After getting finished, the wife made the comment that we should keep it and still get a tractor.  I was thinking the same thing just waiting for her to say it.  Especially since the belly mowers are about $2500.  So we are going to start negotiating prices on a Kubota B2620 with FEL and a 48" rotary cutter this week.  There are some features on the JD 2520 that are appealing but it is about a $2000 premium to go to the deere which I don't think is worth it.  I am apprehensive about spending this kind of money but there is way to much to do here.


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## MasterMech (Mar 18, 2012)

IIRC the Bxx20 series machines are do not have positional control of the 3pt hitch. If you intend to be brush-hogging with this tractor I'd consider that mandatory. It's damn near impossible to return the rotary cutter to the same height after lifting for a rock/stump/etc. without the positional control. Kubota also puts the brake pedals on the right side, making individual wheel braking while under power impossible. Is the diff lock on the right side as well? Remember, your right foot is busy operating the hydro control.

Kubota's Bxx30 series compares much more favorably to the Deere 2x20 series machines.

Check this thread out.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/221838-kubota-b2620-vs-john-deere.html


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## smoke show (Mar 19, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> IIRC the Bxx20 series machines are do not have positional control of the 3pt hitch. If you intend to be brush-hogging with this tractor I'd consider that mandatory. It's damn near impossible to return the rotary cutter to the same height after lifting for a rock/stump/etc. without the positional control. Kubota also puts the brake pedals on the right side, making individual wheel braking while under power impossible. Is the diff lock on the right side as well? Remember, your right foot is busy operating the hydro control.
> 
> Kubota's Bxx30 series compares much more favorably to the Deere 2x20 series machines.
> 
> ...


 
I'm not familiar with the B series but my L series has 3pt positional control. Also has a hand control for the hydro so individual wheel braking can be accomplished.
I do agree that would be something to check into.


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## JDC1 (Mar 19, 2012)

Position control is the main difference between the Deere and Kubota.  Are there any other compacts that have it besides the Deere.


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## semipro (Mar 19, 2012)

I really like the HST pedal setup on my JD.  You push one for forward and one for backward.
The brake is on the left side.  I'm not sure how the Kubota is setup but I really didn't like the treadle type pedals on some tractors.


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## John97 (Mar 20, 2012)

For a small SCUT, I strongly recommend looking at the Massey Ferguson GC line. After doing all the research, this is what I steered my father into a few years ago. He needed something for snow removal, moving things around, busting out some tree stumps, and the like. He also mows a 5 acre field a few times a year that is next to his place because nobody else (i.e. the town) will maintain it.

He was able to get the GC2410 with a backhoe for a very reasonable price.  They often have free-loader promos and/or various other deals going.


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## Ralphie Boy (Mar 20, 2012)

I have a BX 2660 and love it. 6 acers some of which reaches 22% grade. 3 weights, @ 52 lbs each, on the front and a 60" mid mowing deck. I also have a 5' Bush Hog blade and a 48" Land Pride box blade.

When I first bought it I thought it too small to be called a tractor so I called it my "U. L. A. V"  that is "Urban Lawn Assult Vehicle". But after grading my .25 mile, very steep, gravel driveway I've decided it is a real tractor! Any machine is going to leave marks in wet ground.


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## JDC1 (Mar 20, 2012)

Today we ordered the B2620 with Front End Loader and 48" Woods Brush Hog.  I can't wait to attack our yard.  I am keeping the zero turn to mow.  Thanks to everyone for tips and insight.


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## smoke show (Mar 20, 2012)

Congrats, hope it serves you well.

What swayed your decision away from Deere?


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## JDC1 (Mar 20, 2012)

smoke show said:


> Congrats, hope it serves you well.
> 
> What swayed your decision away from Deere?


 
I like the dash layout better on the Kubota and price.  The only thing that I was not sure about was the position control.


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## Ralphie Boy (Mar 20, 2012)

The issue that took me to Kubota over Deere was that Kubota makes every part of their tractors (at this time) and do not
outsource to other companies. This *may* make a big difference in the timley acquisition of a much needed part in the years to come.


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## MasterMech (Mar 21, 2012)

I have NEVER had a problem getting Deere parts in a timely fashion.  Regardless of the original supplier.  Hell, you can walk into a dealership and order new, original parts for tractors that haven't been built for 70 years!


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## firefighterjake (Mar 21, 2012)

Up here apparently someone else really, really liked the Kubota line of tractors . . .

http://www.onlinesentinel.com/news/...and-onto-waiting-truck.html?searchterm=Kubota


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## JDC1 (Mar 21, 2012)

firefighterjake said:


> Up here apparently someone else really, really liked the Kubota line of tractors . . .
> 
> http://www.onlinesentinel.com/news/...and-onto-waiting-truck.html?searchterm=Kubota


 
Apparently 0% financing wasn't a good enough deal for him.


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## MasterMech (Mar 21, 2012)

Local Kubota Dealer here got ripped off 3-4 years ago.  Wasn't just one machine tho.... !!


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## semipro (Mar 22, 2012)

Ralph said:


> The issue that took me to Kubota over Deere was that Kubota makes every part of their tractors (at this time) and do not
> outsource to other companies. This *may* make a big difference in the timley acquisition of a much needed part in the years to come.


 
I like my Deere but I was disappointed to find that some of the parts were made in China, among them the tires. 
Kubota makes real good stuff.  Have fun with it!


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## JDC1 (Mar 22, 2012)

aalden said:


> I like my Deere but I was disappointed to find that some of the parts were made in China, among them the tires.
> Kubota makes real good stuff. Have fun with it!


 
Thanks, it should be delivered next week.  I will post pictures.  I really like the fit and finish of the Kubota, the seat is more comfortable, 3 speed HST, gauges etc.  The Deeres were listed as a little heavier lifting and had position control but I when it came down to numbers we went with the orange one.  A lot of Kubotas implements and assembly are done in GA.  There is a YouTube video of the assembly process.  They have one line that all of the tractors come down and they turn out 50-60 a day with only 50 employees.


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## lukem (Mar 22, 2012)

We had two Kubotas back when I was landscaping.  Can't remember the numbers, but one was an OLD B series and a new (at the time) L series.  Both were as reliable as the sunset and took a beating (and a hard one at that) day after day after day.  We were meticulous with maintenance, but pushed them near or beyond their limits about every time out.  Just keep it well fed with good lube and it will last a couple lifetimes.

You're going to love it....just make sure you have enough ballast in the rear when doing anything serious with the FEL, but the same goes for any tractor.


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## MasterMech (Mar 22, 2012)

We had an old Kubota L-something or other at the Kubota dealer I was working for that we used as a "yard tractor" for dragging around dead machines, trailers, etc.  Thing was always on it's "last legs" and maintenance was thought of only as business got real slow.  So long as the battery had enough in it, it cranked everytime and ran strong.


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