# GE Refrigerator Model 20 Light Bulb not working. - Resolved! See Pics and Info!



## Don2222 (Sep 9, 2011)

Hello

The light bulb in the refrigerator stopped working so.

1. Tried a new bulb. Still not working.
Put new bulb in lamp and yes it works!

2. Checked AC power and circuit breaker.
AC outlet is getting power.

Checked manual

Manual says:
Interior Light does not work
No Power at outlet
Light bulb burned out

No help there!
See pics below - click to enlarge


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## Gary_602z (Sep 9, 2011)

Did you check the switch?

Gary


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## Dix (Sep 9, 2011)

Switches solve 90 % or more of our repairs. You'll need more of a m#, GE's usually have a bunch of alphabet soup in theirs.


Fridge is cold, other wise functioning?


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## Don2222 (Sep 9, 2011)

Hello

Yes, Refrigerator is cold and functioning. How do I remove the switch? How can I test it?

Where can I get a new one?


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## Don2222 (Sep 9, 2011)

Hello

I just found the video on how to remove the light switch!! light switch Part # PS100-12 date 02.12.12

This one looks different because it is a plunger type. Removal is the same as in the video with a putty knife!!
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Light-Switch/WR23X10143/913753

Removed and tested as shown in the pics below. Switch opens when plunger is pushed in so it must be good!
Will check connections next. Switch connections are good. Any electronics, relays etc that could be at fault here??

Also no help here. Looks like a more sophisticated electrical problem! LOL
http://www.rd.com/home/refrigerator-repairs/
Fixing The Light
If the bulb will not light when you open the door, make sure that the unit is plugged in and that the bulb is not loose. Then buy a 40-watt appliance light bulb. (Do not use a standard light bulb.) Unplug the unit and replace the bulb, removing any protective covering first. Plug the unit back in. If the light still does not work, the problem may be the door switch or the wiring.

To replace the switch, unplug the unit and pry the switch loose with a putty knife. Remove the wires from the terminals. Take the switch with you to an appliance store and buy a replacement. Connect the wires to the new switch, slide the switch back into place, and plug the unit back in. If the problem persists, you may have a more sophisticated electrical problem that requires professional help.


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## fishingpol (Sep 9, 2011)

I have a Kenmore fridge and the freezer bulb is good and almost never works.  If I smack the bulb cover, it will come on.  I wonder if the metal in the socket contracts and looses contact with the end of the bulb.  It is the only thing I can think of.  When I smack it and it does come on, I see the old food in the back of the inside of the freezer and remember why I don't want the light on in the first place.  It is time to clean it out before the fall.  
 :shut:


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## blujacket (Sep 9, 2011)

The newer bulbs are cheaply made with not enough solder at the end to make contact. Pull up on the tang in the socket, or add a dab of solder to the end of the bulb.


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## Gary_602z (Sep 9, 2011)

blujacket said:
			
		

> The newer bulbs are cheaply made with not enough solder at the end to make contact. Pull up on the tang in the socket, or add a dab of solder to the end of the bulb.



Power off first! :bug: 

Gary


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## Don2222 (Sep 10, 2011)

Hello

Thanks alot, I will try testing the light socket tomorrow!! Then I will report back!


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## fbelec (Sep 10, 2011)

check the socket itself. look close at the rivet's that hold the screw shell in place. that is where the bulb gets it's neutral. if it is bad you should see a black spot somewhere around the rivet's. this happens all the time to light fixtures. they make junk today. the sockets are made out of aluminum and not what they used to make them out off from the early sixties and back. brass. the aluminum warps with the heat from the bulb or from being slightly loose and when replacing the bulb it stresses the socket. if your brave take a volt meter to the socket. tab to screw shell should be 120 volts if not tab to a piece of the fridges metal body and there should be 120 volts. if not bad wire between the switch and socket. but you tested the switch and that was good so my money is on the screw shell. if not you had a mouse try to eat the wire. 
oh ya check the plug that goes onto the switch. one wire to the fridges body should read 120 volts. (if you have a good ground)

frank


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## jebatty (Sep 10, 2011)

With power off, some light sockets have a center contact tab that has been pushed down to far. Lift the tab. Some light bulbs do not have much of a center contact protrusion and do not make contact. This can be fixed by a dab of solder on the end of the center contact on the bulb, then file it to make it a little smother.


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## Don2222 (Sep 10, 2011)

jebatty said:
			
		

> With power off, some light sockets have a center contact tab that has been pushed down to far. Lift the tab. Some light bulbs do not have much of a center contact protrusion and do not make contact. This can be fixed by a dab of solder on the end of the center contact on the bulb, then file it to make it a little smother.



You and fbelec hit the nail on the head!!

I tried to get an ac reading with the meter but could not get in there very well. As I pulled the probe out it sparked. I was holding the insulated part of the probe so no shock to me. That did tell me there was AC to the socket!

So I pushed the button in to disconnect power to the light and reached in with my finger and pulled the copper center tab with my fingernail twice.

Then screwed in the light bulb and it worked!!

*So in the future I would check this center tab in the light socket first then test the light switch*

Thanks ALL for your help


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## fbelec (Sep 12, 2011)

another problem solved by the team at HEARTH.COM


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## Miller Drive (Feb 26, 2013)

Thanks so much, jebatty! I was all set to call a repair person and -- using a small plastic measuring spoon -- I reached into the light socket (power still on; not too smart, I know) and pulled up the center contact tab. Screwed in the bulb and voila! IT WORKED!

I didn't even need a dab of solder (and have no clue what solder is, actually). AGAIN: THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR TAKING TIME TO POST THIS SIMPLE SOLUTION. This problem has driven me nuts for months.

Take care, Loretta in Palm Beach Gardens, Fla.


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## milleo (Feb 26, 2013)

Miller Drive said:


> Thanks so much, jebatty! I was all set to call a repair person and -- using a small plastic measuring spoon -- I reached into the light socket (power still on; not too smart, I know) and pulled up the center contact tab. Screwed in the bulb and voila! IT WORKED!
> 
> I didn't even need a dab of solder (and have no clue what solder is, actually). AGAIN: THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR TAKING TIME TO POST THIS SIMPLE SOLUTION. This problem has driven me nuts for months.
> 
> Take care, Loretta in Palm Beach Gardens, Fla.


Welcome to the Hearth, you can learn all kinds of things here and get a good laugh sometimes too....Glad you fixed your fridge.....


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## begreen (Feb 27, 2013)

How many hearth.commers does it take to fix a light bulb?


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## fishingpol (Mar 2, 2013)

begreen said:


> How many hearth.commers does it take to fix a light bulb?


 

Five- one to hold the bulb and four to spin the refrigerator.


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## Brian33 (May 14, 2016)

Don2222 said:


> Hello
> 
> The light bulb in the refrigerator stopped working so.
> 
> ...


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## Brian33 (May 14, 2016)

Hi there - on our ge fridge the light not coming on was just a loose wiring connector in the back by the fan (fan was also off).  Best to check this with power off


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