# New to me 346XP OE



## mayhem (Sep 12, 2011)

Spotted this CL ad and for once actualy trolling CL paid off.



> Husqvarna Chainsaw 346xp - $75 (Berkshire County)
> Date: 2011-09-09, 12:50PM EDT
> Reply to: sale-kvecu-2590069850@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]
> Up for sale is a Husqvarna 346xp. This saw was given to me because it was not running and the owner did not want to deal with it. I had it looked at and was told the piston and housing was scored. I bought a piston kit for it and attempted to fix it myself, but haven't been able to keep it running. I don't have the time to fool with it, and it's just sitting around. This is a great saw when running....goes for around $500 new. If you are good with small engines might be a simple fix. Also, it does not come with a bar or chain. Send me an email if you are interested or have questions. Looking to get $75 obo. Thanks.



Sent a message, was second in line for it, someone else was offering above asking price, but I told him I'd take it immediately for asking price and he just wanted to be done with it.  

Met the guy, got the saw and put it on the bench on Friday night.

Its a 2007 346XP OE, original owner wrecked the original P&C and gave it to this guy who bought a kit and swapped out the P&C, looks like a 50cc so its been upgraded to the bigger motor.  He said he just couldn't get it to run, but it would pop and start for a second.  I suspect it was straight gassed as the intake side of both P&C are seriously scored, but the exhaust side is shiny and smooth.

Gave it a couple test pulls, seems to have good compression, decomp works properly, the linkage is all hooked up ok too it seems.  Dumped the gas in the tnak out and put some fresh stuff in and gave it a few pulls, wouldn't pop when trying the mfr recommended start, but when I turned off the choke and applied full throttle it popped once and dies.  Took the plug out and it was dripping wet, flipped the saw over and a few drops of fuel came out of the cylinder so I let it sit upside down for a few hours to drain the cylinder.

Plug is a little dirty, but in good shape.  I checked the gap and it was over .040, mfr says .020 so I regapped it.

Comparing the fuel lines and other setup between the 346 and my 359 I see the 359 has an extra line coming out of the fuel tank and the hole from the tank on the 346 is an oval large enough for 2 lines but there is only one there, so I'm guessing there is a line missing on the 346.  I see a nipple on the intake side of the carb and another in the orange floor there up by the intake manifold.  The 359 has a second line that goes to the floor, but in a different location...this could also be a wild goose chase because my 359 is an E-Tech and the 346 is not, so it could be an emmisions thing I suppose.

All photos are of the 346...thats the old piston if its condition is a good diagnostic tool, the backside of it is very smooth as is the inside of the chamber on the same side...intake side of the chamber is just as scuffed up as the face of the piston.

Just checking for other issues like leaky fuel lines and such before I fire it again.  In the event it has an air leak and not straight gassed I want to try to find and correct it before I run it.  Any suggestions are welcome.

Do I need a new air filter too?  I think there are a few different filter types for the 346, not sure if I have the good one or the one that people seem to have letting fine particles through, which could also have led to the death of the old P&C I suppose.

Assuming I get it going, what should I look for for a bar and chain on this sucker?  I've got a 20" for the 359, maybe a 16" on the 346 with a loop of Stihl RSC and use as a light saber?  The 359 is rated up to a 24" bar and its still breaking in and getting more powerful as I use it, so I think my big wood needs are set for the forseeable future...so use the 346 the way it was indended for limbing and  buck medium wood?  Drop small trees too I suppose.


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## mayhem (Sep 12, 2011)

Anyone?


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## HittinSteel (Sep 12, 2011)

Which side of the piston is scored?

The saw needs vac and pressure tested before you run it imo.

I am no 346 guru though, mine has given me fits and I can't figure out what is wrong.


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## smokinj (Sep 12, 2011)

HittinSteel said:
			
		

> Which side of the piston is scored?
> 
> The saw needs vac and pressure tested before you run it imo.
> 
> I am no 346 guru though, mine has given me fits and I can't figure out what is wrong.



+1 Where do you start with a saw like this. You start from the being and find out its simple but if you start out simple its bound to need it all. If I was going take on a basket case there needs to be two in the basket! lol ;-)


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## mayhem (Sep 12, 2011)

Is a vacuum test different from a pressure test?  Is this all just a compression test?


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## HittinSteel (Sep 12, 2011)

vac/pressure test are different, but can be performed with the same tool. Unless you are sure the saw was scored by being straight gassed, then you need to check the crank seals by seeing if they will hold a vacuum. Are you a member on arboristsite? If not, I would suggest joining and I can point you to some very helpful links.

This is all different than compression test.


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## mayhem (Sep 12, 2011)

I've been posting about this in arboristsite,yes.  Here's the link,

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/180225.htm

Thanks for help!


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## Beetle-Kill (Sep 13, 2011)

When you get it running, you'll love that saw. My OE with a muffler mod. is a blast to use. Great score.


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## MasterMech (Sep 13, 2011)

Scuffed intake side/face of the piston would suggest dirt ingestion.  Usually confirmed by checking the carb bore and intake ducts.

+1 on the vac/pressure testing.  You need special plates (that you can make) to bolt over the intake/exhaust ports on the cylinder and a vac/pressure pump/gauge but it's a very surefire way to diagnose air leaks on cyl base gaskets, crank seals, hairline cracks, etc.


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## HittinSteel (Sep 13, 2011)

I ended up buying a mighty vac 8500.......does both pressure and vacuum. Then the only fun is making the plates for the exhaust and intake side and on many saws, making some type of adapter to apply press/vac through the spark plug hole. It is not the best way (buying the factory or making plates is), but rubber from an old bike tire tube will work as will Gorilla duct tape to block off the intake and exhaust.

BTW, I reread your original post and as Mastermech says, scored intake side suggests it ate something.....scored exhaust side would suggest lean seizure


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## mayhem (Sep 13, 2011)

I'll recheck the old cylinder and verify its the intake side or the exhaust.  I may be making an assumption that its the intake.  If its the exhaust thats scored and not the intake, does that mean straight gassed or just that it wasn't particulates?  I guess no matter what, it makes sense to do the pressure/vacuum tests and verify everything is good before firing it up again and risk blowing out a perfectly good P&C.

Are there telltale signs of specific damage to the P&C from crank air leaks or straight gas/lean gas?

Sounds like it would be a good idea to have a shop do a pressure test for me as I'm not setup to make cover plates for the intake and exhaust ports.

This is my first used saw...if it pans out I've got a great backup or new favorite primary saw...if it doesn't, I've got a small investment in something I can probably at least break even on with parting it out.  Good way to learn something new I figure.


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## smokinj (Sep 13, 2011)

mayhem said:
			
		

> I'll recheck the old cylinder and verify its the intake side or the exhaust.  I may be making an assumption that its the intake.  If its the exhaust thats scored and not the intake, does that mean straight gassed or just that it wasn't particulates?  I guess no matter what, it makes sense to do the pressure/vacuum tests and verify everything is good before firing it up again and risk blowing out a perfectly good P&C.
> 
> Are there telltale signs of specific damage to the P&C from crank air leaks or straight gas/lean gas?
> 
> ...




On saw's like this you have to address every signal thing. (can become a nightmare)


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## HittinSteel (Sep 13, 2011)

mayhem said:
			
		

> I'll recheck the old cylinder and verify its the intake side or the exhaust.  I may be making an assumption that its the intake.  If its the exhaust thats scored and not the intake, does that mean straight gassed or just that it wasn't particulates?  I guess no matter what, it makes sense to do the pressure/vacuum tests and verify everything is good before firing it up again and risk blowing out a perfectly good P&C.
> 
> Are there telltale signs of specific damage to the P&C from crank air leaks or straight gas/lean gas?
> 
> ...



Yes, tear the saw down and have a shop do the pressure/vac test. Jay (sawgarage) on AS would buy it from you if you can't get it running.


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## smokinj (Sep 13, 2011)

HittinSteel said:
			
		

> mayhem said:
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> 
> 
> ...


 ;-) I hate it.My cousin auto garage has a sign 130.00 an hour if we do the labor, if you touch it 260.00! Really does make a lot of sense!


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## mayhem (Sep 13, 2011)

http://arboristsite.com/chainsaw/112928.htm

Couple vids I found on AS of a pressure test and vacuum test.  I have a vaccum pump like that for bleeding brake lines and it seems like maybe its easier to plug the cylinder ports than I thought it might be...looks like a good opportunity to learn something new for me.

To summarize both processes, I want to seal the two ports tight, drop the piston to its lowest point and pressurise it and evacuate it through the impulse line, correct?


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## HittinSteel (Sep 13, 2011)

Spend some time in these threads. I can't remember for sure if the 346 has a "dedicated" impulse hole to test through. If memory serves me well, most Husky saws have a hole in to the crankcase at the intake that allows the impulse from the cylinder to signal the carb. If I'm right, you will have to develop a fitting to test through the spark plug (an old spark plug with the porcelin removed is often used).

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/112780.htm


http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/94407.htm


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## mayhem (Sep 14, 2011)

Rechecked the old P&C, the damage is in the exhaust side, not the intake.


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## MasterMech (Sep 15, 2011)

Well that would indeed suggest fuel/lubrication issues rather than dirt ingestion.


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## mayhem (Sep 16, 2011)

Did the poor man's pressure and vacuum tests from a post on AS, everythign seems to be in order.  Regapped the plug, put it ina nd some fresh gas and the sucker fired right up on the third pull.  ZOOM!

Idle seems stable, but it bogs very easily when I apply throttle, if I goose it, it stalls out.  Once the revs come up though it just surges to the redline.  I'm guessing I've got some carb tuning to do here, anyone have a process they like to follow for best results?

This thign screams...makes a seriously different sound than my 359.  Must be running significantly higher rpms at the top end...hearing protection required I think.


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## smokinj (Sep 16, 2011)

Sounds like its running rich lean it up I tune by ear, but if you have a tack and set it to factory specks.


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## amateur cutter (Sep 17, 2011)

Sorry Jay, Gotta disagree. If the saw loses it going up I'd guess lean on the low side, high revs @ wot indicates lean on the high side, prolly why she burnt up the first p & c. Run both screws in till they bottom out, then back them out 3/4 each. It should start & run, then rev it, if it bogs go out in 1/8 turn increments till it accelerates smoothly. Now hold it wot & listen, if it misses, or four strokes your probably good. If it screams, give it more on the high side. Once it four strokes put it in the wood & it should smooth out under load. At this point adjust the idle & you should be good. If it doesn't miss slightly @ wot it's too lean & will toast itself again. Hope this helps. A C


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## smokinj (Sep 17, 2011)

amateur cutter said:
			
		

> Sorry Jay, Gotta disagree. If the saw loses it going up I'd guess lean on the low side, high revs @ wot indicates lean on the high side, prolly why she burnt up the first p & c. Run both screws in till they bottom out, then back them out 3/4 each. It should start & run, then rev it, if it bogs go out in 1/8 turn increments till it accelerates smoothly. Now hold it wot & listen, if it misses, or four strokes your probably good. If it screams, give it more on the high side. Once it four strokes put it in the wood & it should smooth out under load. At this point adjust the idle & you should be good. If it doesn't miss slightly @ wot it's too lean & will toast itself again. Hope this helps. A C



Only said it sounds like its fat! (And I cant hear it for myself) Now you disagree to putting a tack on it or tuning by ear? ( Because thats the only thing that will tell the story)


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## amateur cutter (Sep 17, 2011)

Nope, no disagreement @ all to tuning with the tach, just on the bog going up, & like you said, we can't here it run. I always try to err on the rich side of any adjustment to avoid a lean run. I watched a guy smoke a nice old home light XL one time trying to tune it. That poor saw wound right up & seized @ no load cause he leaned it out too far. I learned a lesson from that though. 

BTW, do you tune by ear or do you have a tach? I'm wanting one & not sure what to get. Suggestions? Thanks A C


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## smokinj (Sep 17, 2011)

amateur cutter said:
			
		

> Nope, no disagreement @ all to tuning with the tach, just on the bog going up, & like you said, we can't here it run. I always try to err on the rich side of any adjustment to avoid a lean run. I watched a guy smoke a nice old home light XL one time trying to tune it. That poor saw wound right up & seized @ no load cause he leaned it out too far. I learned a lesson from that though.
> 
> BTW, do you tune by ear or do you have a tach? I'm wanting one & not sure what to get. Suggestions? Thanks A C



Both but normally by ear and wot in the cut if I have a monster log to do. 
http://web.archive.org/web/20051018212959/www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm


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## MasterMech (Sep 17, 2011)

mayhem said:
			
		

> Did the poor man's pressure and vacuum tests from a post on AS, everythign seems to be in order.  Regapped the plug, put it ina nd some fresh gas and the sucker fired right up on the third pull.  ZOOM!
> 
> Idle seems stable, but it bogs very easily when I apply throttle, if I goose it, it stalls out.  Once the revs come up though it just surges to the redline.  I'm guessing I've got some carb tuning to do here, anyone have a process they like to follow for best results?
> 
> This thign screams...makes a seriously different sound than my 359.  Must be running significantly higher rpms at the top end...hearing protection required I think.



346XP's are 15,000 RPM screamers.  Most seem to be setting them around the factory 14,500 spec.  I'm guessing your 359 runs in the more typical 12-13K range.


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## mayhem (Sep 21, 2011)

Finally made the time to try this out.  Got it running at 3/4 H and L screws.  Bogs a bit off idle and revs fairly quickly, but not as quickly as I know it would if it were running optimally.  I backed the L screw out about an 1/8th at a time and goosed it, the bog doesn't seem to go away or even change much so i went back to 3/4 turn to start over.

Top end seems nice.  Once it gets off idle and the revs get up there it goes to WOT and hangs there, seems smooth at WOT.

Idle seems high to me.  The manual says idle should be just a hair less than is necessary to move the chain when the brake is off...chain moves plenty fast when the saw is idling, but I can't figure out how to set the idle.  I don't see a convenient third screw, but it might be that I'm not seeing it.

Stuck at WOT for a minute.  Throttle linkage got stuck right at the butterfly.  I'll have to see why it got hung up, possible the seller bent the rod slightly when he removed the carb.

I got a little bit of smoke coming off the front (exhaust) end of the motor so I shut it down and its cooling.  I'll pull it apart tonight and see if I cna figure out what it is.  Smelled both oil and metallic...like when you have that first fire of the season in your woodstove and you can smell the hot metal of the stove.  Concerned that it might still have an issue that I missed...or it could just be the new jug and slug curing themselves in...this is the first time its been really run and gotten up to operating temperature since the p&c were installed.  Didn't make any funny noises.  Could also be some oil deposit in the muffler or something for all I know.  The exhaust gasket and heat shield that goes between the cylinder and muffler were pretty oily and not knowing if that intentional I left them that way...coule just be that burning off.

You guys mentioned getting the saw to 4 stroke at the top end when unloaded, but I have no idea what that means...I know you mean it makes a particular kind of noise, but what is it?  I'll check youtube.

Put a 16" bar and chain on it yesterday so once I get it going it should be a real screamer of a saw.  Looks weenie with a little bar on it...but I know looks can be deceiving.


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## smokinj (Sep 21, 2011)

Idle is the L screw....H is for WOT! seems to me you need to turn left a bit on each screw.


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## MasterMech (Sep 22, 2011)

Third screw you're looking for is located near the throtle shaft on the carb.  It will physically hold the throttle cracked open at idle.  Adjust L screw for max RPM's and then back off the "third" screw until the chain stops moving.  If you've got it running this well maybe it would be worthwhile to have a pro set the high end with a tach.  Most will let you stand-in for the procedure.  Cheap education!


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## mayhem (Sep 27, 2011)

The thread that wouldn't die because I wouldn't let t is back!

Played wiht it for awhile and couldn't get it quite right...the bog off idle never went away so back on the bench the thing goes.  Sat there night after night patiently awaiting my time...I'd go downstairs and visit the thing every day or so before bed and promised I wouldn't give up on it.

Well I finally made the time to get back to it and started doing alot of comparing between the 346 and my 359.  The 346's controls always felt sloppy to me...I attributed this more to my 359 not even being broken in yet than anything else, still it buged me...and so the throttle sticking open on me, so I started really looking at the linkages on both saws and how the choke works and everything when I noticed the 346's throttle plate stops moving alot earlier than the 359's, which didn't make sense to me at all.

Further scrutiny revealed everything.

The damn fool who sold it to me never reattached the air intake to the carbeurator.  The hex head bolt was barely engaging the threads and a good half or 3/4 of an inch of bolt shaft was showing.  The air intake would come rihgt off the carb, causing that bogging, air sucking noice I mentioned, thus bypassing the air filter too.  The throttle linkage was only moving maybe halfway to WOT and then the right angle on the rod was rapping up against the bolt head.  Pulled it apart enough to get an allen key in there and cranked that bolt down snug.  Took the saw, reset the H and L screws to one full turn out from seated and tis like a new saw.  Fired right up, idles nice, backed the L screw out about 1/4 turn and it revs up off idle instantly, a little bogging at the high end and a 1/4 trn out of the H screw took care of that.

Now I need to get the thing into some wood and see how it does.  

Got a little whiteish-bluish smoke when running WOT and I don't think its 4 stroking because its very smooth at WOT no load.  Maybe too rich still?  Or should are there other concerns?

Thanks all for your help!


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## smokinj (Sep 28, 2011)

mayhem said:
			
		

> The thread that wouldn't die because I wouldn't let t is back!
> 
> Played wiht it for awhile and couldn't get it quite right...the bog off idle never went away so back on the bench the thing goes.  Sat there night after night patiently awaiting my time...I'd go downstairs and visit the thing every day or so before bed and promised I wouldn't give up on it.
> 
> ...



If it sounds very smooth you are a litte to lean back off just a touch untill you hear a slight fuzz.


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## mayhem (Sep 28, 2011)

So thats turning in to richen, right?  On the H jet?


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## MasterMech (Sep 28, 2011)

mayhem said:
			
		

> So thats turning in to richen, right?  On the H jet?



Backing the screws out should add more fuel.


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## CTYank (Sep 28, 2011)

smokinjay said:
			
		

> mayhem said:
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> 
> 
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Methinks mayhem needs to check out some vids, like one Brad Snelling did demoing 2/4-stroking while loading/unloading in the cut. Seems to me, this is critical to avoiding toasting p&c again on an engine that'll happily destroy itself.

One analogy: think of the sound quality of a typical Harley-Davidson vice Honda/Suzuki/Ducati. When a 2-stroke starts 4-stroking it sounds kinda like a Harley when you crack the throttle- a sort of flatulent buzzing. That's what you want with a chainsaw @WOT and no-load. If high-speed mixture adjustment is right, that goes away under load.

Gasoline engines rely on power enrichment to avoid melting/poofing things. Carb mixture screws typically RH-thread: righty-tighty-leany.

When in doubt, there's no shame in seeking expert help.


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## mayhem (Sep 28, 2011)

I did review those videos over at AS actually and I'm still at a bit of a loss...I think I heard it, but I'm not positive.  The 4 stroking sound is the subtle stumbling the thing does at WOT and no load, right?  If so then I need to back the H screw out just a hair more and keep retrying till I get the 4 stroking sound unloaded but it goes awaya nd amooths out in the cut?

Saw shops are very expensive.  If anyone is local to the Pittsfield, MA area and could help educate me I'd be grateful.  I want to learn how to do this for myself...this surely isn't the last time I'll want to retune a carb.

Funny about the carb screws...I've always assumed turning it in was richer, learn somethign new every day.  Explains why when someone says to lean it out, turning the screw out doesn't help.


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## smokinj (Sep 28, 2011)

mayhem said:
			
		

> I did review those videos over at AS actually and I'm still at a bit of a loss...I think I heard it, but I'm not positive.  The 4 stroking sound is the subtle stumbling the thing does at WOT and no load, right?  If so then I need to back the H screw out just a hair more and keep retrying till I get the 4 stroking sound unloaded but it goes awaya nd amooths out in the cut?
> 
> Saw shops are very expensive.  If anyone is local to the Pittsfield, MA area and could help educate me I'd be grateful.  I want to learn how to do this for myself...this surely isn't the last time I'll want to retune a carb.
> 
> Funny about the carb screws...I've always assumed turning it in was richer, learn somethign new every day.  Explains why when someone says to lean it out, turning the screw out doesn't help.



Yep Yep. Now just to give you a spin on it, in the cut it should sound clean under load. If its off just a little you can adjust by the pressure you apply in the cut. Takes a good ear, but this is pretty simple. Once you have your ear, you can hear it on saws 1/2 mile away!


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## smokinj (Sep 28, 2011)

Listen to the sound wave over and over until it sticks!  :cheese: 

http://web.archive.org/web/20051018212959/www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm


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## mayhem (Sep 28, 2011)

Perfect, thanks!

Any consideration I need to give to the fact thats its a new P&C or just tune it, break it in and retune as needed when its personality changes?


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## smokinj (Sep 28, 2011)

mayhem said:
			
		

> Perfect, thanks!
> 
> Any consideration I need to give to the fact thats its a new P&C or just tune it, break it in and retune as needed when its personality changes?



Dont let it idle a lot on the first 5 tanks other than that nothing.


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