# Cab50 problem....again.



## MommyOf4 (Jan 15, 2013)

My stove's fire looked weird to me and I decided to turn off the stove. When I say weird, I mean the fire was burning TOO close to the pellet chute (I've never seen it burn like this).  Now my stove won't feed pellets.

The "white" part near the chute is where the fire was burning.  

What could have caused this and how could I fix it?  Thanks for the help in advance!


----------



## jrsdws (Jan 15, 2013)

Total grasping at straws here....but maybe check the holes in the burnpot to make sure none are plugged?  Let it cool down and get a flashlight and a piece of coat hanger or something and clean them all.  Maybe something is plugged and the air flow is pushing that flame back towards the rear wall?


----------



## Woody1911a1 (Jan 15, 2013)

to get the auger restarted I'd be checking the high limit switch reset button .  

when the stove was burning funny could you hear the combustion blower running ?


----------



## MommyOf4 (Jan 15, 2013)

jrsdws said:


> Total grasping at straws here....but maybe check the holes in the burnpot to make sure none are plugged? Let it cool down and get a flashlight and a piece of coat hanger or something and clean them all. Maybe something is plugged and the air flow is pushing that flame back towards the rear wall?



Completely clear.


----------



## MommyOf4 (Jan 15, 2013)

Woody1911a1 said:


> to get the auger restarted I'd be checking the high limit switch reset button .
> 
> when the stove was burning funny could you hear the combustion blower running ?



The reset button wouldn't work. I don't remember the noise on the combustion blower.  Sorry.


----------



## DexterDay (Jan 15, 2013)

Is the ash trap closed completely?? 

Looks like you had a seriously lazy flame and it burned hot where the flame was? But sooty everywhere else?


----------



## MommyOf4 (Jan 16, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> Is the ash trap closed completely??
> 
> Looks like you had a seriously lazy flame and it burned hot where the flame was? But sooty everywhere else?


 
The ash trap is closed completely.  The fire wasn't a lazy burn.


----------



## DexterDay (Jan 16, 2013)

Hopper was full or empty? 

Damper under ash pan is still open? 

Door on ash clean out isnt hanging down more than the thickness of a dime? 

In order to get that much black (the entire firebox looks black), the flame almost had to be lazy?? Or you somehow had entirely to much fuel and there was no air getting under the pellets (ash on bottom)?? 

Have you tried to restart it yet??


----------



## kinsmanstoves (Jan 16, 2013)

If there was not 400 miles between us I would drive out just to see this one in a million stove.  Not poking at you but you have had more issues with this CAB50 than the entire list of CAB50 complaints on this board.  Are you sure you are not a "plant" from USSC?

Eric


----------



## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 16, 2013)

Or the stove is loaded with ash in the exhaust system which brings up the question of how many bags of pellets have been burned since the vent and exhaust passages in the stove were cleaned or the door isn't sealed maybe the latch is loose or not closed all the way?


----------



## kinsmanstoves (Jan 16, 2013)

Did you ever get the issue with the door not sealing corrected?  Please explain again how this stove is vented, listing all components of the vent and diameter of pipe (i.e. adapter, tee, 36" vertical, ect.).  There has to be one small thing that is messing with this stove.

Eric


----------



## MommyOf4 (Jan 16, 2013)

LOL @ Kinsmanstoves!!  I wish that was it!

I've burned about half a ton of Lignetics and a few bags of Power Pellets/Statesmen.


----------



## MommyOf4 (Jan 16, 2013)

From reading the manual, I think it has to do with resetting a snapdisk 2 or 3.  I'm trying to figure that part out now.


----------



## MommyOf4 (Jan 16, 2013)

kinsmanstoves said:


> Did you ever get the issue with the door not sealing corrected? Please explain again how this stove is vented, listing all components of the vent and diameter of pipe (i.e. adapter, tee, 36" vertical, ect.). There has to be one small thing that is messing with this stove.
> 
> Eric



We use the Selkirk VP venting and it has attached in order adapter, tee, long vent pipe (not sure what it's called), 90(?) elbow, long piece out through the wall and a rain cap attached to it.

The guys that came before said the sealing to the door was ok.


----------



## MommyOf4 (Jan 16, 2013)

Ok....I can't seem to find anything on how to reset a snap disk 2.  AHHH!


----------



## MommyOf4 (Jan 16, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> Hopper was full or empty?
> 
> Damper under ash pan is still open?
> 
> ...



The damper and clean outs are both closed.  When the fire started looking weird the fuel kept coming out and that was reason I turned the thermostat to the lowest setting (causing it to turn off).


----------



## DexterDay (Jan 16, 2013)

Will the stove restart? 

The snap disc you are looking for ONLY Needs Reset if the stove was overfired and WILL NOT START? 

So turn the stat up. If stoves blower comes on? Its not tye snap disc.


----------



## MommyOf4 (Jan 16, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> Will the stove restart?
> 
> The snap disc you are looking for ONLY Needs Reset if the stove was overfired and WILL NOT START?
> 
> So turn the stat up. If stoves blower comes on? Its not tye snap disc.


The stove won't feed at all and doesn't seem to start at all. I do hear a blower of some kind. When I hit the reset button, nothing happens and I don't hear anything.


----------



## kinsmanstoves (Jan 16, 2013)

I have never seen a snap disk on a Heatilator needing reset.

Eric


----------



## DexterDay (Jan 16, 2013)

Have you tried to jump the vacuum switch? 

If the combustion blower is starting and your auger isnt? The 1st place I would look is vacuum?  

Does the CAB have a Hopper lid switch? Is it closing properly?


----------



## MommyOf4 (Jan 16, 2013)

kinsmanstoves said:


> I have never seen a snap disk on a Heatilator needing reset.
> 
> Eric



Really?  What do you think could cause this?  I've tried hard setting it.  Cleaned it out completely.  

The stove just will not feed.  Not even the initial feed.


----------



## MommyOf4 (Jan 16, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> Have you tried to jump the vacuum switch?
> 
> If the combustion blower is starting and your auger isnt? The 1st place I would look is vacuum?
> 
> Does the CAB have a Hopper lid switch? Is it closing properly?



There's no lid switch. Everything seems to be closing properly.


----------



## MommyOf4 (Jan 16, 2013)

Could it be an auger jam?


----------



## DexterDay (Jan 16, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> Could it be an auger jam?



Have you checked?


----------



## kinsmanstoves (Jan 16, 2013)

The CAB 50 has a magnetic hopper lid switch.  I would bet $5 that you did not trip the high limit snap disk.


----------



## MommyOf4 (Jan 16, 2013)

I'm pretty sure the auger is not jam.  I took out all the pellets and vacuumed out the the top and bottoms of the chute.  I took the shop vac hose and vacuumed out the venting.  Cleaned inside the stove.  Made sure the ash pan, cleaning rod, and hopper lid was correctly placed.  

Am I missing something?


----------



## DexterDay (Jan 16, 2013)

kinsmanstoves said:


> The CAB 50 has a magnetic hopper lid switch.  I would bet $5 that you did not trip the high limit snap disk.



Doesn't that switch stop the auger?


----------



## Hdhogger (Jan 16, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> Doesn't that switch stop the auger?


 
Yes indeed. Never seen soot like that on my baffle plates.


----------



## Hdhogger (Jan 16, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> adapter, tee, long vent pipe (not sure what it's called), 90(?) elbow, long piece out through the wall and a rain cap attached to it.


 
I would clean all of the venting from the exhaust outlet to the cap.


----------



## MommyOf4 (Jan 16, 2013)

Hdhogger said:


> Yes indeed. Never seen soot like that on my baffle plates.



When I burn Lignetics, I always get black soot like that.


----------



## DexterDay (Jan 16, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> When I burn Lignetics, I always get black soot like that.



Something is not right if it's burning black (anytime). Regardless of pellet.....


----------



## MommyOf4 (Jan 16, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> Something is not right if it's burning black (anytime). Regardless of pellet.....



Ok...correction...I've gotten black soot like that ever since my stove started going haywire back in mid December.


----------



## MommyOf4 (Jan 17, 2013)

In the process of cleaning out the venting I tried to remove the rain cap from the outside and noticed that our installers sealed it inside with silicone. ARGH! The only way to take it off would be to scrape the silicone of somehow, correct?


----------



## MommyOf4 (Jan 17, 2013)

Hdhogger said:


> I would clean all of the venting from the exhaust outlet to the cap.


The venting is completely cleaned now and it still won't feed.


----------



## MommyOf4 (Jan 17, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> Something is not right if it's burning black (anytime). Regardless of pellet.....



What could cause the black soot? Air restriction? or Vacuum?


----------



## imacman (Jan 17, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> What could cause the black soot? *Air restriction? or Vacuum*


Could be either.  

Black soot = rich burn.  Rich burn =air restriction/ or lack of vacuum from comb. blower.


----------



## MommyOf4 (Jan 23, 2013)

Our dealer came by today and the stove started right up for them (after I tried everyday for a week now), but they did notice that one of the snap disks was defective.  They replaced it and it's working again without any issues so far!  There's no black ash on the window yet.


----------



## gfreek (Jan 23, 2013)

Has the dealer charged you anything yet for the service calls???


----------



## imacman (Jan 23, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> Our dealer came by today and the stove started right up for them (after I tried everyday for a week now), but they did notice that one of the snap disks was defective. They replaced it and it's working again without any issues so far! There's no black ash on the window yet.


Keep your fingers crossed, and let us know how it goes.


----------



## MommyOf4 (Jan 23, 2013)

gfreek said:


> Has the dealer charged you anything yet for the service calls???


 
Nope!  Everything has been covered under the warranty so far.  I made sure to tip them well though! I would HATE to work in this cold weather and not get paid.


----------



## nikeseer (Jan 29, 2013)

How does this look to you all. Been running on medium half feed and damper open all the way. Last time I cleaned it after it was on high for a couple of nights the back baffle plates were black with ash. Is this ok?
	

		
			
		

		
	

View attachment 91500

	

		
			
		

		
	
 now in the pic only one side which is the exhaust side is covered but the center and left seem normal. When I have burned on medium with the damper closed mostly didn't have this. Should I close the damper some? Justt making sure all is running correctly.


----------



## lodtrack (Feb 7, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> Doesn't that switch stop the auger?


Also the high limit snap switch would have to be manually reset by pushing in the actuator on the switch back...


----------



## MommyOf4 (Feb 8, 2013)

Our dealer just switched out our control box and wouldn't even take a tip for coming out.  He said that our control box was on the wrong setting.  He said it was supposed to be on 2 but was on 4?  I though it was supposed to be on 4.


----------



## nikeseer (Feb 8, 2013)

Depending on the part number on the box it is supposed to be a 4. This is if it is the original control box. Then new control boxes have only been out for a few months. THOSE are supposed to be on a two. I have the old one and when I did try it on two , my igniter and feed system wouldn't work. Put it back to four and no problems! When did you purchase and what date was te stove manufactured?


----------



## MommyOf4 (Feb 8, 2013)

I bought ours mid Sept of 2012.  I can't seem to find the manufacturing date.


----------



## gfreek (Feb 8, 2013)

MommyOf4, did they ever change the door gasket  ??


----------



## kinsmanstoves (Feb 8, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> Our dealer just switched out our control box and wouldn't even take a tip for coming out. He said that our control box was on the wrong setting. He said it was supposed to be on 2 but was on 4? I though it was supposed to be on 4.


all depends on the part number


----------



## imacman (Feb 8, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> Our dealer just switched out our control box ........He said that our control box was on the wrong setting. He said it was supposed to be on 2 but was on 4? I though it was supposed to be on 4.


So we're assuming that since you didn't mention how the stove was running, everything is still OK??


----------



## MommyOf4 (Feb 8, 2013)

They still haven't changed it.  They said I need to shut the door tighter.  We've been pushing it as tight as we can.  It's been working ok so far.  We'll see in a few hours.


----------



## nikeseer (Feb 8, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> They still haven't changed it. They said I need to shut the door tighter. We've been pushing it as tight as we can. It's been working ok so far. We'll see in a few hours.


Hi. Sorry for the late replay. I had to get back to work. The part number on my control box was made in 2008 and it is part number 7058-172 which is the first control boxes they put in the EcoChoice stoves. That is supposed to be a 4. My stove was made this year also. The new control boxes are 7058-188. You can see the number on the control box just by taking the side panel off. Nothing else needs to be done. What HHT didn't ASK me when they checked my serial number was what is the part number on my control box when I had an issue. They ASSUMED because it was made in sep/oct 2012 that it had the new control box. Obviously not true. qdinfo@hearthnhome.com answered this question for me about the 2 or 4 setting. HHT techs are ok but not the best on the call line. Hope all is working better!


----------



## imacman (Feb 8, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> They still haven't changed it.....


 
OK, I'm confused with what you said here, compared to what you said in post #43: "Our dealer just switched out our control box "

So, which is it?


----------



## DexterDay (Feb 8, 2013)

imacman said:


> OK, I'm confused with what you said here, compared to what you said in post #43: "Our dealer just switched out our control box "
> 
> So, which is it?



I believe she is referring to the door gasket?



gfreek said:


> MommyOf4, did they ever change the door gasket  ??


----------



## gfreek (Feb 8, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> They still haven't changed it. They said I need to shut the door tighter. We've been pushing it as tight as we can. It's been working ok so far. We'll see in a few hours.


 
So no door gasket.... Shut the door tighter.... What??????


----------



## imacman (Feb 8, 2013)

gfreek said:


> So no door gasket.... Shut the door tighter.... What??????


As I remember, Eric gave her the means to change the door latch and add washers to tighten it up.  Wonder if that ever got done?


----------



## saladdin (Feb 8, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> There's no lid switch. Everything seems to be closing properly.


 
There is a lid switch.


----------



## saladdin (Feb 8, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> Our dealer just switched out our control box and wouldn't even take a tip for coming out. He said that our control box was on the wrong setting. He said it was supposed to be on 2 but was on 4? I though it was supposed to be on 4.


 

Not sure why they would need to change out the control box just to change a setting.
What was it on and what did they change it to?


----------



## saladdin (Feb 8, 2013)

nikeseer said:


> Hi. Sorry for the late replay. I had to get back to work. The part number on my control box was made in 2008 and it is part number 7058-172 which is the first control boxes they put in the EcoChoice stoves. That is supposed to be a 4. My stove was made this year also. The new control boxes are 7058-188. You can see the number on the control box just by taking the side panel off. Nothing else needs to be done. What HHT didn't ASK me when they checked my serial number was what is the part number on my control box when I had an issue. They ASSUMED because it was made in sep/oct 2012 that it had the new control box. Obviously not true. qdinfo@hearthnhome.com answered this question for me about the 2 or 4 setting. HHT techs are ok but not the best on the call line. Hope all is working better!


 
The newer manual contradicts itself. Don't go by the physical number setting. Go by the number of  flashes.


----------



## gfreek (Feb 9, 2013)

imacman said:


> As I remember, Eric gave her the means to change the door latch and add washers to tighten it up. Wonder if that ever got done?


I think it was done, in another post..


----------



## MommyOf4 (Feb 9, 2013)

Yes, I did change the door latch and no they did not change the door gasket. They only changed the control box.


----------



## saladdin (Feb 9, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> Yes, I did change the door latch and no they did not change the door gasket. They only changed the control box.


 
That makes no sense to say the setting is wrong but instead of just turning the knob they replaced the control box.

Sounds like they have no idea what was wrong and was just throwing parts at it. That would concern me.


----------



## Lousyweather (Feb 9, 2013)

saladdin said:


> That makes no sense to say the setting is wrong but instead of just turning the knob they replaced the control box.
> 
> Sounds like they have no idea what was wrong and was just throwing parts at it. That would concern me.


 sure should, Sal......because if its simply not set correctly or being run properly, new parts aint gonna fix dat.


----------



## MommyOf4 (Feb 9, 2013)

You guys are making me nervous....

There's a lot of black ash again.


----------



## Lousyweather (Feb 9, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> You guys are making me nervous....
> 
> There's a lot of black ash again.


 ***hugs***


----------



## gfreek (Feb 9, 2013)

At least the dealer is trying to get this right....Have you been burning the same pellets all along??  Black ash ??


----------



## MommyOf4 (Feb 10, 2013)

gfreek said:


> At least the dealer is trying to get this right....Have you been burning the same pellets all along?? Black ash ??



I switched from Lignetics to Hamers to Statesman.


----------



## MommyOf4 (Feb 10, 2013)

I already moved the actual placement of the washer on the door once, but should I add or remove the washer?  If I remove the washer (so there is NO washer at all) would that help seal the gasket tighter?

SN: We changed the control box AND the thermostat and we are still having the same problem.


----------



## gfreek (Feb 10, 2013)

OMG.... Hopefully others will chime in here. This is getting ridiculous.... you must a lot of patience .


----------



## Rob Kav (Feb 10, 2013)

I am new to this forum and to pellet stoves in general.The guys who are regulars seem to be very knowledgable.I am only chiming in because I needed to tighten up the door seal in my Cumberland so for me the problem was solved by putting the washers on the front side of the door.If you think about it that will give the door less wiggle room so it has to grip harder on the inside.The guys here have talked about "the dollar bill test"and if you poke around here there are some good descriptions.This darn thing seems to have given you a lot of trouble.I hope this helps.Rob


----------



## MommyOf4 (Feb 11, 2013)

gfreek said:


> OMG.... Hopefully others will chime in here. This is getting ridiculous.... you must a lot of patience .


 
Having 4 kids and a husband, I have to have a lot of patience (LOL).  It's not a life and death situation and we have heat in our home so nothing to get too upset about.  It's just irritating since it's now been over 2 months.


----------



## MommyOf4 (Feb 12, 2013)

OK...I think I've officially hit my limit.  

My dealer just said he spoke with Heatilator about our issue of our stove shutting down.  Heatilator told him that the control setting may need to be adjusted to a higher setting because the fire in the pot is not getting high enough to satisfy the thermocoupler.  The feed adjustment rod also needs to be completely open.  I told him that it IS in fact the proper height.  The problem we are having now is the stove shutting off randomly and not being able to hit the reset button to reset it and also the black sooting.  The crazy feeding issue has been resolved.  

I know it has to be the door gasket or the vacuum switch.  Is what the dealer saying making sense?  I told him that when he comes I want him to check the vacuum switch.


----------



## saladdin (Feb 13, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> OK...I think I've officially hit my limit.
> 
> My dealer just said he spoke with Heatilator about our issue of our stove shutting down. Heatilator told him that the control setting may need to be adjusted to a higher setting because the fire in the pot is not getting high enough to satisfy the thermocoupler. The feed adjustment rod also needs to be completely open. I told him that it IS in fact the proper height. The problem we are having now is the stove shutting off randomly and not being able to hit the reset button to reset it and also the black sooting. The crazy feeding issue has been resolved.
> 
> I know it has to be the door gasket or the vacuum switch. Is what the dealer saying making sense? I told him that when he comes I want him to check the vacuum switch.


 
You can do a search in the forums and find ways to bypass the vacuum switch to see if that changes things.
You could almost eliminate or confirm vacuum switch issues on your own in probably 30 minutes (after you plug it back in you'd have to wait the 18 minutes or so for it to power down).

You can remove the thermocoupler cover , clean it out and make sure the coupler is touching the end your self.

You can change the setting on the control box yourself. Takes 5 minutes.
Which control box do you have? How many flashes are there at start-up?

I believe the only other setting option is +10%. And you coul probably accomplish that by increasing the feeder instead. Change the feed to wide open to see if that changes things.

But I would bet my fake internet fortune on the door.


----------



## MommyOf4 (Feb 13, 2013)

saladdin said:


> You can do a search in the forums and find ways to bypass the vacuum switch to see if that changes things.
> You could almost eliminate or confirm vacuum switch issues on your own in probably 30 minutes (after you plug it back in you'd have to wait the 18 minutes or so for it to power down).
> 
> You can remove the thermocoupler cover , clean it out and make sure the coupler is touching the end your self.
> ...



We've bypassed the vacuum and it worked fine.  The thermocoupler has been cleaned out numerous times.  Our dealer said that we would not be able to change the setting on the control box.  We replaced our old one with the new model.  It has since fixed the feeding frenzy that was going on.  I believe there was 2 blinks. The feed wide open made the fire REALLY high.


----------



## saladdin (Feb 13, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> We've bypassed the vacuum and it worked fine. The thermocoupler has been cleaned out numerous times. Our dealer said that we would not be able to change the setting on the control box. We replaced our old one with the new model. It has since fixed the feeding frenzy that was going on. I believe there was 2 blinks. The feed wide open made the fire REALLY high.


 

The new manual contradicts itself.  You should have 4 blinks for the cab50 per the manual but the graphic shows 2.  Your dealer is lying if he is saying you can't physically change the settings. It can be done in 5 minutes. If he's saying he wants to be the one that does it then that's one thing but you can physically do it.

If he has no idea how to change the setting then return the stove and fire him. He's either lying or dumb.


----------



## saladdin (Feb 13, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> OK...I think I've officially hit my limit.
> 
> My dealer just said he spoke with Heatilator about our issue of our stove shutting down. Heatilator told him that the control setting may need to be adjusted to a higher setting because the fire in the pot is not getting high enough to satisfy the thermocoupler. The feed adjustment rod also needs to be completely open. I told him that it IS in fact the proper height. The problem we are having now is the stove shutting off randomly and not being able to hit the reset button to reset it and also the black sooting. The crazy feeding issue has been resolved.
> 
> I know it has to be the door gasket or the vacuum switch. Is what the dealer saying making sense? I told him that when he comes I want him to check the vacuum switch.


 
Do a search. I THINK you can bypass the other limit switches also, to test.

You are running out of parts to replace. If it was me, I would tell him to change out all 3 snap disks and the door rope. Or in the least, bring the 3 snap disks off a floor model so you can switch out to test. I wouldn't have any faith in his deductive abilities. Shotgun approach now.

Hopefully you paid with a credit card so, if necessary, you can start a charge back.


----------



## MommyOf4 (Feb 13, 2013)

I think we may have just fixed it!  The stove started going out when they were putting the side panels back up and they realized that the wires on the side going up to the hopper were getting pinched.  Has anyone ever had this happen?

Before they found the pinched wire they did some kind of pressure test and it read normal.


----------



## Dinger (Feb 13, 2013)

I've been a mechanic over 20 years, and have had my run ins with troubleshooting problems that have kicked my butt for days. I still, to this day, get a warm fuzzy when I see or find something like that.


----------



## saladdin (Feb 13, 2013)

MommyOf4 said:


> I think we may have just fixed it! The stove started going out when they were putting the side panels back up and they realized that the wires on the side going up to the hopper were getting pinched. Has anyone ever had this happen?
> 
> Before they found the pinched wire they did some kind of pressure test and it read normal.


 
No. But I've noticed those wires also. I bet it's the ones for the hopper switch and they are grounding out on the metal. That would explain the auger stopping which would stop pellets dropping , the fire would go out and then you would get cold.

Mine look very tight also and have no problem so I'd wait until I changed those out before I declared victory. If yours are as tight as mine, check the connection to the hopper switch, maybe a bad connection at the switch (or bad switch itself) and not at the actual point where the wires go into the hopper.


----------



## gfreek (Feb 13, 2013)

Hope for the best...


----------



## fordf150 (Feb 14, 2014)

i just want to add info to this...after one season of owning a cab50.. had to replace my door gasket and i did the glass gasket as well was leaking at the door seal ...after doing this, my glass stays cleaner longer now... from day one i think it was a bad seal as i would almost have to clean the glass everyday...i never bothered with warranty... i went online searched and found what i needed and bought at my local home hardware ...the original is stuck in with hi-temp rtv ....so i got a tube of this too....very easy to do..

3/4 rope kit from imperial for the door seal-GA0191 3/4" Fiberglass Gasket Rope Kit
and new glass gasket kit-GA0009 5/8" x 1/8" - 8' Window Channel Tape (white)
Permatex 81160 High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket, 3 oz

also, after reading more....my stove heats my house, my only source/backup is electric....my dealer told me to keep my fan switch on high. clean after every 5 bag. pipes after 25 bags...


----------



## saladdin (Feb 21, 2014)

fordf150 said:


> i just want to add info to this...after one season of owning a cab50.. had to replace my door gasket and i did the glass gasket as well was leaking at the door seal ...after doing this, my glass stays cleaner longer now... from day one i think it was a bad seal as i would almost have to clean the glass everyday...i never bothered with warranty... i went online searched and found what i needed and bought at my local home hardware ...the original is stuck in with hi-temp rtv ....so i got a tube of this too....very easy to do..
> 
> 3/4 rope kit from imperial for the door seal-GA0191 3/4" Fiberglass Gasket Rope Kit
> and new glass gasket kit-GA0009 5/8" x 1/8" - 8' Window Channel Tape (white)
> ...



These?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Imperial-GA...faultDomain_0&hash=item2a3470b54e#ht_57wt_663

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Self-Stick-...l-firebox-1-8-/171183008049?vm=r#ht_222wt_663


----------



## fordf150 (Feb 27, 2014)

yep.thats the ones.. the door seal kit i have about 2 feet left. and the window seal only goes on the 2 sides, not all the way around..so i have lots of that left too...and the tube of hi-heat red silicone i use on my exhaust pipe every time i clean it.so i have lots left as well..dealer said every 25 bags for chimney cleaning..with the new door seal kit i did notice the door seals tighter now to..guess cause it needs to squish the gasket now .....


----------



## saladdin (Feb 27, 2014)

fordf150 said:


> yep.thats the ones.. the door seal kit i have about 2 feet left. and the window seal only goes on the 2 sides, not all the way around..so i have lots of that left too...and the tube of hi-heat red silicone i use on my exhaust pipe every time i clean it.so i have lots left as well..dealer said every 25 bags for chimney cleaning..with the new door seal kit i did notice the door seals tighter now to..guess cause it needs to squish the gasket now .....


Thanks buddy. I'm going to give this a shot in a few weeks.


----------

