# Garage Standing Water Options



## thinkxingu (Feb 23, 2014)

Hi! When snow melts or we pull in to the garage with wet cars, water pools to the middle. There's a drain there, but it fills up quickly and takes a while to dissipate (not even sure where it goes).

I've tried using a broom to sweep it out, tried a sump pump (doesn't get close enough to water), and tried a wet vac. Would love quicker/better suggestions. The only thing I haven't tried is a squeegee. Do they make a pump with a hose-end I could shove in the drain and send the water out?

Thanks!


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## razerface (Feb 23, 2014)

I would find the other end and unplug it


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## mustash29 (Feb 23, 2014)

When my place was built, I wanted drains under each vehicle and a floor sloped toward the middle.  I was told that drains are not code approved in CT.

You are lucky with what you have.  In my place the crap drips and runs all over the darn place.


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## thinkxingu (Feb 23, 2014)

The thing is, it looks like it might just drain into the gravel bed- it doesn't appear to have an actual pipe but rather just a steel opening and dirt below.


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## tfdchief (Feb 23, 2014)

thinkxingu said:


> The thing is, it looks like it might just drain into the gravel bed- it doesn't appear to have an actual pipe but rather just a steel opening and dirt below.





thinkxingu said:


> The thing is, it looks like it might just drain into the gravel bed- it doesn't appear to have an actual pipe but rather just a steel opening and dirt below.


That is pretty common, although not code compliant in many places.  They tend to drain very slowly during certain times of the year.  In Illinois, Residential garage drains are required to go to the sanitary sewer.  Under certain circumstances they would require a gas and oil separator.  As for you situation, since the garage floor was obviously poured to drain to the drain, and not out the garage door, you probably have no option except to squeegee.  Or, find out where the drain goes and try to improve it.


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## mithesaint (Feb 23, 2014)

I use a squeege.  Not fun, not quick, but it works.


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## festerw (Feb 24, 2014)

Fastest way to clean it up would be a wet vac with a front mount squeegee, they aren't the cheapest things around though.


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## TradEddie (Feb 25, 2014)

What's the code concern? I tried to drill 1/2" drain holes at the low spots in my concrete, but the masonry bit inevitably found rebar before it reached the bottom of the slab. 

TE


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## razerface (Feb 25, 2014)

TradEddie said:


> What's the code concern? I tried to drill 1/2" drain holes at the low spots in my concrete, but the masonry bit inevitably found rebar before it reached the bottom of the slab.
> 
> TE


probably gas and oil being drained.

Here in ohio, my new sloped floor garage has drains that go about 30 ft outside the house and end up poking out the side of the hill in my yard.


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## peakbagger (Feb 25, 2014)

I use a squeegee, when I had it built I asked for a slope but was in rush to get going and paid the guy before checking. I have a 6" curb so the water doesn't drain out. In NH a drain isn't permitted unless hooked to an approved disposal system. I have a few holes drilled in the floor anyhow. Some day I will etch the floor and put in a slope.


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## johneh (Feb 25, 2014)

I did saw cuts in my floor to get the water to go where I wanted it to go


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## tfdchief (Feb 25, 2014)

TradEddie said:


> What's the code concern? I tried to drill 1/2" drain holes at the low spots in my concrete, but the masonry bit inevitably found rebar before it reached the bottom of the slab.
> 
> TE


Well, as an inspector, I don't necessarily always know the "why" in the code.  I just have to know the code and enforce it.  Though in this situation I can fairly confidently tell you the the concern is gas and oil.  Not as big a concern as in residential as in commercial situation where a gas and oil interceptor is always required (in IL)  but still a concern.


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## TradEddie (Feb 26, 2014)

tfdchief said:


> Well, as an inspector, I don't necessarily always know the "why" in the code.  I just have to know the code and enforce it.  Though in this situation I can fairly confidently tell you the the concern is gas and oil.  Not as big a concern as in residential as in commercial situation where a gas and oil interceptor is always required (in IL)  but still a concern.


I suppose my question should have been if you think the primary concern is preventing environmental contamination or is it a fire/safety issue?  If environmental, I don't see how it's any different whether I squeegee a spill out onto my driveway, or let it drain under the garage. From a fire safety point, I accept that allowing a flammable/explosive spill accumulate where it can't be reached and won't easily evaporate isn't a good plan, but in residential garage where no major engine maintenance is occurring, is it a realistic danger?

TE


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## tfdchief (Feb 26, 2014)

First question, probably a little of both.  Second, No, not normally, until your gas tank decides to start leaking during the night  Happened to me once.


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## JustWood (Feb 26, 2014)

Woodn't be too difficult or expensive  to saw a square of cement out. Dig a hole and back fill with 2B stone. Re-cement around a new drain or make the square hole the right size for a grate.  Wood act similar to a French drain but with no outlet.


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## tfdchief (Feb 26, 2014)

JustWood said:


> Woodn't be too difficult or expensive  to saw a square of cement out. Dig a hole and back fill with 2B stone. Re-cement around a new drain or make the square hole the right size for a grate.  Wood act similar to a French drain but with no outlet.


Those work fairly well.  Just not an option in IL as the IL Plumbing code does not allow them.


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## pen (Feb 26, 2014)

How much water are we talking here?  Gallons?  Or just a large damp area that won't dry?

How about letting a fan run (or even installing a ceiling fan).  If it's not a ton of water, and is spread out over a good sized area, the fan might help speed evaporation.


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## thinkxingu (Feb 27, 2014)

pen said:


> How much water are we talking here?  Gallons?  Or just a large damp area that won't dry?
> 
> How about letting a fan run (or even installing a ceiling fan).  If it's not a ton of water, and is spread out over a good sized area, the fan might help speed evaporation.




It's about 5 or so gallons at a time. I might try a squeegee and see how well that works.


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## 1kzwoman (Mar 2, 2014)

Cat litter worked to get olive oil out of carpet it my Casita. ( Spread on a tea towel for easy removal)
For water I'd cover water with a liberal amount of clay type so it doesn't get wet enough to desolve. Then sweep it up. Could recycle OR use sawdust!


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## ironpony (Mar 4, 2014)

thinkxingu said:


> It's about 5 or so gallons at a time. I might try a squeegee and see how well that works.


 

pop the grate off and run an auger/spud bar/ rod down into the soil to loosen it and allow percolation. It will drain. I doubt it is  5 gallons, a gallon of spiiled water  goes along way.


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