# Log Lift Help Please



## 'bert (Jan 16, 2010)

Hello all,

It's usually pretty cool here this time of year and therefore I do not do much wood processing.  So this is when I pull my OPE into the shop and make sure it's all ready to giver when our gruelingly long 2 months of summer hit.  This years project is to try and add a log lifter to my splitter.

So I am asking if anyone has done this, could you please post some pics of how you went about it - or at least the final product.  I am not sure where to mount the cylinder so that everything moves freely.

Thank you in advance,

'bert

PS it's really nice here right now + 7 °C so I might go cut instead (or drink some beer outside) we see how it goes. :coolsmile:


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## Monkey Wrench (Jan 16, 2010)

’bert said:
			
		

> Hello all,
> 
> It's usually pretty cool here this time of year and therefore I do not do much wood processing.  So this is when I pull my OPE into the shop and make sure it's all ready to giver when our gruelingly long 2 months of summer hit.  This years project is to try and add a log lifter to my splitter.
> 
> ...



Older Model But Still Works

http://www.criticalbench.com/images/lauraphelps4.jpg


Installation is easy. Small Gold Band and it takes over. You'll know where to mount the cylinder.


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## 'bert (Jan 16, 2010)

Lets see if I get this right.... ROTFLMAO.


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## Tony H (Jan 16, 2010)

Hey I think that's my next project too , right after I finish installing the wench on my 4 wheeler you know to lift and lower the plow blade and pull me out if I get stuck.


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## gpcollen1 (Jan 17, 2010)

Did you buy a kit or doing i from scratch??  I'd love to have on e but the kit was expensive...


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## 'bert (Jan 18, 2010)

doing it from scratch.  2 problems with ebay (3 really with the 3rd being that I didn't think to look there)

1) I am to cheap to pay for most things & and I rather enjoy the recreational welding and fabricating
2) shipping!  people in the US seem to be able to ship anything to anywhere in the US for next to nothing, but when you want to ship to Canada the price goes up exponentially


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## Jags (Jan 18, 2010)

Mine is a little unconventional because I did not use hydraulics for the lifter.  I had a battery for the electric start, so the 12v was handled.  Has easily lifted every stump ever rolled up on the thing.


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## triptester (Jan 19, 2010)

Jags,
 that is a great idea for a lift . Harbor Freight had those winches on sale last week for $50. That is less than the cost of just a hydraulic valve.


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## Jags (Jan 19, 2010)

triptester said:
			
		

> Jags,
> that is a great idea for a lift . Harbor Freight had those winches on sale last week for $50. That is less than the cost of just a hydraulic valve.



Yep, thats where I got my winch a few years back.  Just make sure its a power in AND out.  That way you have full control of the lift and table.  A regular battery will run that thing all day without any prob.  Of course its only moving 2 ft of cable so the cycle time is just a couple of seconds.


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## IHnum1 (Mar 2, 2010)

Hello Bert,

I built my log splitter a few years ago with a log lift, which is a horizontal only design.  There are a couple things you need to think about when adding a log lift if you are planning to utilize your hydraulic system.  First you must purchase the correct valve which is a valve with "power beyond".  You will connect your current valve and the new valve in a series.  Take a look at the following website and look for the RD5100:   

http://www.princehyd.com/Default.aspx?tabid=46

From the attached picture you can see how I mounted my log lift and cylinder to the beam.  It is actually bolted to the beam with the ability to remove it if need be.  I have autocad drawings as well if you need them.  One nice thing about the log lift is when I'm splitting myself, I like to lift the log lift up about half way and stack 5-6 smaller logs (10"-12") on it then I can split those pretty quickly.  Kind of a batch process.  Hopefully this helps get you started, let me know if you need any more info.


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## 'bert (Mar 3, 2010)

hi IHnum1,

First off, seeing as this was your first post, welcome to the site and thanks for making the leap from being a lurker to a poster.  As I am sure you are aware, there is a lot of really great people and advice here.

Since I started this post (about 45 days ago) I have completed my addition of the log lift for my splitter.  It looks very much like yours.  I too made mine so that it could be detached if need be.  I used the same energy valve that I had for the main ram valve, but this one did not have the return kick off.  Thank you for your offer of drawings etc, that is the kind of attitude of open sharing that makes this one of best forums on the net.

I will post some pics as soon as time allows.

'bert


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## Adios Pantalones (Mar 3, 2010)

Wait just a GD minute Jags- do you have a hinge/pivot welded to the beam on this thing?  That is so friggin cool.  That's like a $100 job with steel.

Honestly- I never saw a log lift in operation so I need to go youtube me up a video.  I don't know that I need one as the problem logs are 40" long so it's vertical through the side (good back exercise no matter what LOL), but maybe I want one anyway just for the cool project points.


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## Jags (Mar 3, 2010)

Adios Pantalones said:
			
		

> Wait just a GD minute Jags- do you have a hinge/pivot welded to the beam on this thing?  That is so friggin cool.  That's like a $100 job with steel.



2 - 1" pillow block bearings bolted to I-beam with a 1" rod.  Easy stuff.  Pillow blocks are about 8 bucks each.  If a person wanted to remove the log lift it would require sliding out the 1" rod and unclipping the cable from the lifter - walk away.

You can see the left hinge point in this pic.  The right one looks just like it. :cheese:

Edit: and the yellow work table moves with the lift and simply slides out (of the square tubing) if not in use.


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## LLigetfa (Mar 4, 2010)

That's a good idea to incorporate an outfeed table to the log lift.


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## kwikrp (Mar 4, 2010)

I have a troy bilt 33 ton does has anyone successfully added a lift to this machine? If so did you purchase a kit ? From where?
Thanks


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## dirttracker (Mar 4, 2010)

Jags, That's a really freakin cool log lift. I plan on shamelessly copying your idea in a few days. I already have a winch and have thought about making a table for my splitter for a couple of years. I figure I can do double duty with the winch and use it for dragging heavy rounds over to the splitter (as long as I don't drag the splitter to the wood).


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## bogydave (Mar 4, 2010)

kwikrp said:
			
		

> I have a troy bilt 33 ton does has anyone successfully added a lift to this machine? If so did you purchase a kit ? From where?
> Thanks



Thought that model could go vertical.?

For you guys wanting to incorporate a  lift, could your splitter be modified to go vertical easier?'
Just curious.


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## LLigetfa (Mar 4, 2010)

Ja, if the round is too big to lift, I just swing the beam vertical.  I've done that once or twice.  A log lifter attached to the beam would get in the way of making it vertical.  It would also put strain on the beam pivot.  The pivot on my splitter is getting sloppy already and in need of attention.


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## IHnum1 (Mar 4, 2010)

Bert, 

I was interested in what your hydraulic system looks like since you added your log lift.  Did you put a T in the line coming from the pump to connect both valves?  Is the pressure relief in the valve the same for both valves?  The reason for asking, I was going to do that, althought the second valve I had on hand had a lower pressure relief (1500psi vs my ram valve of 2500psi).  This would have caused my splitting tonage to drop down significantly, due to the lower pressure relief in the system.  Looking forward to some pictures.   Thanks, IHnum1.


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## Jags (Mar 4, 2010)

dirttracker said:
			
		

> Jags, That's a really freakin cool log lift. I plan on shamelessly copying your idea in a few days.



Thanks.  A couple of important parts are: The channel iron that creates the "L" frame needs to be pretty substantial and notice a connection point (in the first pic) from just below the winch back to something solid (in my case is was my hydraulic tank that was built from 10 gauge plate steel).  That connection point is crucial in reinforcing the "L" frame for rigidity.

Good luck and I hope yours works out as well as mine did.


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## gandrimp (Mar 4, 2010)

I saw one on youtube a few days ago that used a cherry picker (engine hoist) and tongs.I would post a link but I cant find it now.
This is what Im going to do.


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## Adios Pantalones (Mar 4, 2010)

I looked at my splittah this morning and the wheels would be sort of in the way for a lift.  Having the vertical option just about obviates the need, but it would be a fun project and would save some bending down.  I split better than half a cord of pine (40" longish pieces) in 3 hours the other night.  What a PITA that would be without the beast.

Maybe I'll just weld a cup holder on there and call it a day.


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## LLigetfa (Mar 4, 2010)

IHnum1 said:
			
		

> Did you put a T in the line coming from the pump to connect both valves?


That wouldn't work since the valves almost certainly are open centre.  The way to do it with open centre valves is to daisy chain another open centre valve downstream.


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## Jags (Mar 4, 2010)

LLigetfa said:
			
		

> IHnum1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Correct - it needs to be a "power beyond" valve that is in series (not parallel) with the output of the ram valve.


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## LLigetfa (Mar 4, 2010)

gandrimp said:
			
		

> I saw one on youtube a few days ago that used a cherry picker (engine hoist) and tongs.I would post a link but I cant find it now.
> This is what Im going to do.


Some good ideas on MTF including this one.  Cool idea, what with the four-way it holds onto the remainder for resplitting.

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showpost.php?p=655403&postcount=2


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## LLigetfa (Mar 4, 2010)

Here's another one.

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showpost.php?p=806450&postcount=39


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## Adios Pantalones (Mar 4, 2010)

In my search- I saw one with a moving wedge that had a 4-way head on it on both sides.  The shaft was below the beam- you could split a round 4 ways on the fore and back stroke.  Damn- I would get some serious cardio keeping that fed.


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## Jags (Mar 4, 2010)

LLigetfa said:
			
		

> gandrimp said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thats actually a "T" wedge making it a 3 way, but a very cool design and concept.  I like it.


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## IHnum1 (Mar 4, 2010)

Yes, power beyond is the only way, that's why I was curious how Bert did it.  I used a power beyond for my splitter, those valves aren't cheap by any means.


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## LLigetfa (Mar 4, 2010)

Scary video.  The bi-directional nature encourages one to put their body very close to the splitting action.  You can see the guy reaching over the moving wedge with his belly right up against the round being split.


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## LLigetfa (Mar 4, 2010)

Jags said:
			
		

> Thats actually a "T" wedge making it a 3 way, but a very cool design and concept.  I like it.


Right you are.  I stand corrected.


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## Adios Pantalones (Mar 4, 2010)

LL- I agree.

I've said it before, but the slowish cycle time for my splitter acts as a safety feature for me- plenty of time to think.  Also- since I work alone 95% of the time- I can be getting the next round on the return.  I'd take a bit more speed, but not much.


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## LLigetfa (Mar 4, 2010)

IHnum1 said:
			
		

> Yes, power beyond is the only way, that's why I was curious how Bert did it.  I used a power beyond for my splitter, those valves aren't cheap by any means.


I think you could get away with the standard open centre valves if you make the lift the second downstream valve.  I don't think the lift would build up as much pressure as the wedge so the low pressure side of the valve for the wedge should be OK.

Now, I have to go with the usual disclaimer that I'm not an engineer, nor do I play one on TV, and I haven't slept at a Holiday Inn for some time.  If you were to implement such a thing, you must test it to at least twice the weight it will ever experience and test it from a safe distance with adequate guarding and PPE.


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## Jags (Mar 4, 2010)

Actually, the simple way if you don't have a power beyond valve is to put a splitter valve in the system.  Push the knob down and fluid flows to the valve for the ram, pull knob up and fluid is diverted to the valve running the lifter.


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