# Chainsaw buying guide?????



## Scott2373 (May 28, 2012)

Hi all! I haven't been around since burning season was in full effect, but it's good to be back! I noticed the changes to the forum. Very nice! So far so good. I've never owned a chainsaw before and don't need anything heavy duty, so I'm putting it out here. I'm budgeting an absolute maximum of $250 for this. I have LOTS of questions: 1) Does more CC's necessarily mean more power? 2) I know Stihl and Husquy are the best, but are there any sleeper brands that cost less? I'm thinking something in an 18" bar. Please chime in in with ANYTHING you might think is pertinent to a first time buyer! Thanks very much!


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## bluedogz (May 28, 2012)

How much cutting do you plan to do?  That is, will this buck up the odd 8" scrounge, or will it ride around in the truck hoping to run across a 36" free oak?

Craigslist?  Pawnshops?  I ran across an MS200TC for $150 in a local pawnshop.


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## KarlP (May 28, 2012)

CC roughly equals pulling power.  Make sure you buy on CC not bar length.  I believe the biggest problem with Poulan consumer saws is that they advertize 40cc saws as "20 inch chainsaws". 

IMHO -
20" bars are best with 55+cc saws
45-55cc is best with a 16-18" bar
35-45cc is best with a 14" bar
30-35cc is best with a 12" bar


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## amateur cutter (May 28, 2012)

KarlP said:


> CC roughly equals pulling power. Make sure you buy on CC not bar length. I believe the biggest problem with Poulan consumer saws is that they advertize 40cc saws as "20 inch chainsaws".
> 
> IMHO -
> 20" bars are best with 55+cc saws
> ...


 
I like KarlP's list here, very good starting point imo. Other factors will include chain pitch, cutter type, etc. I run lots of cc's on short bars to keep chain speed up & load down on the power head. The deal on our firewood crew is simple, fastest saw/saws cut, everybody else splits & loads. I don't care for loading nearly as much as cutting, so I'll bring as much HP to the game as I can. 064 on a 16" bar is not unheard of in small wood.

Oops, sorry, went way off topic there. Karl's list is a very good guide. A C


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## DexterDay (May 28, 2012)

Craiglist is a good spot to look... 2 Brand New Husqvarna 460 Ranchers w/ 20" Bar, went up for $250 today. Both new and never used.

I have a 455 Rancher and for general firewood cutting, its all you need. I recently took off the 20" and put a 16" B & C on it. Big difference. Made a good saw, much better...

I also own a 036 Stihl and MS 460. They are also great (read: GREAT! !!) saws. But they are in a different league.

For $250 you can find a nice running 55 cc + or - w/ 18"-20" bar for $250. And not have to "settle". That will pull in a nice saw....


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## bogydave (May 28, 2012)

Some good tips above.
$250 on Craigs list should get a reasonable good saw. Look at the ones listed for $300 & offer $200 / 250 in green backs 
I like a 20" bar, I don't have to bend over as much, cut's anything we have here, 55 & up cc has plenty of power.
With a little shopping you should be able to get a good saw in your price range.


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## MasterMech (May 28, 2012)

I wish you had said $300 was your budget 'cause I'd have said pick up a Stihl MS250. If you're willing to get your feet wet in the used market, very clean examples of the Stihl MS290 can be had for $250.



> 1) Does more CC's necessarily mean more power?


 
Not necessarily and Amateur Cutter is 100% right that chain type will affect power significantly.



> 2) I know Stihl and Husquy are the best, but are there any sleeper brands that cost less? I'm thinking something in an 18" bar.


 
Dolmar/Makita, Echo, Jonsered (basically red Husky's) are the alternative brands worth considering. Efco and Solo are also good "sleeper" brands but may or may not be available in your area. Everything else is a waste of time and money for the serious firewood cutter IMO. Stihl and Husky both make some great saws in the sub-$300 range.



> Please chime in in with ANYTHING you might think is pertinent to a first time buyer!


 
Buy quality. Too many folks buy a cheap saw thinking it will get them by for now and wind up re-spending that money a year (maybe sooner!) later when the saw fails or their needs dictate an upgrade. You also don't get the resale value from a Craftsman or Poulan that you do from a quality brand so whatever you spend on it initially is pretty much gone. Not uncommon for someone to sell a used Stihl for very close to what he/she paid for it new.

Case in point:

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/need-some-opinions.79174/


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## jensent (May 29, 2012)

One of my favorite saws is a Dolmar 420 w/16in bar. List was about $310  paid $230 for the saw and 10 pac of Opti-2 (one gal mix each) . Saw new from local dealer. Best chain I have found for this saw is Stihl 63 PMC3 56. The Opti contains stabilizer and is easy to use. Add contents of packet to gal of gas. I have used it for about 20 yrs. Give each tooth of the chain two passes with the file every time you fill the gas and bar oil tanks. No matter how much power you might have a sharp chain trumps a dull chain every time. When the chips start getting smaller stop. It's time to sharpen the chain. This takes practice. Enjoy!
Tom


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## rkshed (May 29, 2012)

The chain makes a huge difference. Keep it sharp and you don't need big cc's for average bucking.
I would avoid the newer Poulins. (my opinion only).
No matter what, be careful!


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## jackatc1 (May 29, 2012)

HI Scott, please dont forget safety gear, PPE.
About 150 to 200 dollars, worth every penny.


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## Scott2373 (May 29, 2012)

Thanks for all the replies so far, but I think I'm more confused than ever now... I have no idea what "kinds" of chain there are out there or what difference chain pitch makes. The first use this saw will see is going to be cutting up a 100' Tulip tree to give you an idea. It's probably about 5-6' in diameter at the base. After that, I don't foresee the saw being used much. Maybe 3 times a year. I'm planning ahead in case I find a reliable wood supply, but for now, I have 20fc of slab wood since this Tulip will need to season for quite a while. I was planning on getting some good chaps as well, but haven't looked into what's good or how much they will cost.


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## MofoG23 (May 29, 2012)

Scott2373 said:


> Thanks for all the replies so far, but I think I'm more confused than ever now... I have no idea what "kinds" of chain there are out there or what difference chain pitch makes. The first use this saw will see is going to be cutting up a 100' Tulip tree to give you an idea. It's probably about 5-6' in diameter at the base. After that, I don't foresee the saw being used much. Maybe 3 times a year. I'm planning ahead in case I find a reliable wood supply, but for now, I have 20fc of slab wood since this Tulip will need to season for quite a while.


 
I'd rent a large saw for that job (if you never plan to process a tree like that again) and buy a Echo CS400....I'd consider that sleeper saw as it often goes unoticed and can be had for a great deal on Ebay or Craigslist. Great saw IMO if you just need a saw for 'round the house. Very reliable and simple to use. I had one for awhile, but quickly outgrew it based on the tree's I was processing (and the amount of wood). I wish I would have kept it for the very small jobs...


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## bluedogz (May 29, 2012)

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/chainsaw-education.75380/


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## Ashful (May 29, 2012)

Scott2373 said:


> I know Stihl and Husquy are the best, but are there any sleeper brands that cost less?



Here I thought that Husky was just the less expensive alternative for those who didn't want to spend the money on an Echo or Stihl.


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## firebroad (May 29, 2012)

MofoG23 said:


> I'd rent a large saw for that job (if you never plan to process a tree like that again) and buy a Echo CS400....I'd consider that sleeper saw as it often goes unoticed and can be had for a great deal on Ebay or Craigslist. Great saw IMO if you just need a saw for 'round the house. Very reliable and simple to use. I had one for awhile, but quickly outgrew it based on the tree's I was processing (and the amount of wood). I wish I would have kept it for the very small jobs...


I agree with Mofo, rent one.  Then you can get an idea about the weight, feel, etc.  You can certainly get a Stihl for less than $250, and it might be just what you need.  I bought one for the lightness and ease of use, easy start up.  I don't use a chainsaw on a regular basis, either, so it fit my needs for now.  The only beef I have is that you really do have to buy PURE gasoline, nothing that has ethanol; I decided to buy the TruFuel from the big box store to save my sanity.  As much as i use the saw, it is worth the price.


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## KarlP (May 29, 2012)

MofoG23 said:


> I'd rent a large saw for that job


 
1) Has anyone seen someplace that rents chainsaws big enough to cut up a tree over 5' diameter in a day?

I personally have never seen a rental saw over 75cc/over 28" bar. If the tree is really over 5' across, even that may be a little on the small side.

I'd up the budget another hundred or two and keep an eye out for a used Husqvarna 288 or Solo 690.


2) Are you sure having never owned a chainsaw before it is a good idea to tackle a 100' tree as your first one? I'm generally not one to discourage someone from DIY, but I would strongly encourage you to drop a few dozen small trees first or better yet find someone who has dropped trees this big before to make the felling cut for you. Felling a 5' diameter tree with a 20" bar is not a good way to learn. Cutting lots of less than 40' tall less than 1' diameter trees is the way to learn. Once you've done a bunch THEN get yourself a big saw with a 3' bar and go shake the earth dropping thousands of pounds from high heights.

Whatever you do, don't ask how for advice on how to do this on ArboristSite. They really enjoy flaming homeowners cutting their own trees.


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## fossil (May 29, 2012)

If you've never owned a chainsaw, I'm thinking it's safe to assume you have little/no experience bringing trees down.  That being the case, a 100' Tulip 5' in diameter is NOT (IMO) the tree to begin learning on.  Besides that, $250 isn't likely to buy you any saw that's capable of effectively tackling it.  Rick


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## HittinSteel (May 29, 2012)

Joful said:


> Here I thought that Husky was just the less expensive alternative for those who didn't want to spend the money on an Echo or Stihl.


 
hahahaha Echo


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## amateur cutter (May 29, 2012)

Scott2373 said:


> Thanks for all the replies so far, but I think I'm more confused than ever now... I have no idea what "kinds" of chain there are out there or what difference chain pitch makes. The first use this saw will see is going to be cutting up a 100' Tulip tree to give you an idea. It's probably about 5-6' in diameter at the base. After that, I don't foresee the saw being used much. Maybe 3 times a year. I'm planning ahead in case I find a reliable wood supply, but for now, I have 20fc of slab wood since this Tulip will need to season for quite a while. I was planning on getting some good chaps as well, but haven't looked into what's good or how much they will cost.


 
Please don't go after a tree that big with little experience, as stated above, that's asking for it. I've got a fair amount of experience felling trees as an amateur, who's learned from some pros. I might hesitate on that tree myself, or do it with pro supervision. Way too many things can go wrong real fast. Pay a pro to drop that sucker, & maybe buck the trunk, then make firewood & learn as you go. A C


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## Thistle (May 29, 2012)

KarlP said:


> 2) Are you sure having never owned a chainsaw before it is a good idea to tackle a 100' tree as your first one? I'm generally not one to discourage someone from DIY, but I would strongly encourage you to drop a few dozen small trees first or better yet find someone who has dropped trees this big before to make the felling cut for you. Felling a 5' diameter tree with a 20" bar is not a good way to learn. Cutting lots of less than 40' tall less than 1' diameter trees is the way to learn. Once you've done a bunch THEN get yourself a big saw with a 3' bar and go shake the earth dropping thousands of pounds from high heights.


 
+1  Agreed. 
I was cutting almost 10 years & having dropped literally several hundred trees up to 18" before I really felt comfortable tackling a 30" or larger beast without supervision.They still get my respect & I proceed with extreme caution like it was my first one.So many things can go wrong fast,its magnified many times with the big ones.


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## Don2222 (May 29, 2012)

Scott2373 said:


> Hi all! I haven't been around since burning season was in full effect, but it's good to be back! I noticed the changes to the forum. Very nice! So far so good. I've never owned a chainsaw before and don't need anything heavy duty, so I'm putting it out here. I'm budgeting an absolute maximum of $250 for this. I have LOTS of questions: 1) Does more CC's necessarily mean more power? 2) I know Stihl and Husquy are the best, but are there any sleeper brands that cost less? I'm thinking something in an 18" bar. Please chime in in with ANYTHING you might think is pertinent to a first time buyer! Thanks very much!


 
Hi Scott

I have one for sale and made a little video explaining how it works. Here it is if you want to see it?
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/poulan-2150-chain-saw-with-16-blade-95-salem-nh.86629/


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## btuser (May 29, 2012)

I've got a ms250 and was initially disappointed with the performance until I switched to a more aggressive chain. It made 2x the difference. At first I figured it was the smaller CC size but I'm glad I didn't go for a "do it all" saw in the middle. The 250 is light and easily controllable for me. I'm not cutting for a living so a little more of my time is not that valuable.

Chaps are about $60.  Gloves, helmet w/ face shield, gloves, wedges etc.

Good luck getting through a 5' round with 100 bucks.


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## Scott2373 (May 30, 2012)

I AM NOT felling this tree. I am only cutting it for a friend after it's down. He generously offered me as much wood as I could take. I DO have experience using a chainsaw, but very limited. I am aware of how to use one safely including the recommended PPE. My questions only pertain to buying one because I don't know what factors go into owning one for the limited use it would see. Thanks for all the replies.


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## Scott2373 (May 30, 2012)

Stihl MS290 20" bar for $200. Is this a good deal?


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## btuser (May 30, 2012)

Scott2373 said:


> Stihl MS290 20" bar for $200. Is this a good deal?


Depends on the condition.  290 is kinda in a tough spot power/weight wise, and a 20" bar might be pushing it, but that's just from rumors I hear myself when I hang around this place. 

Personally, I wouldn't buy a used chainsaw unless it looked brand new or I trusted the seller.  I'm not familiar enough with chainsaws to tell if something's wrong.


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## btuser (May 30, 2012)

Home Depot rents a 20" saw (I think it's a rebranded Dolmar) that people rave about.  Maybe just renting the saw is an option.


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## amateur cutter (May 30, 2012)

290 with .325 chain would pull 20" bar without a lot of problem in poplar. @ $ 200.00 if it's a decent saw, I might be inclined to buy it, use it, clean it, & resell it if it's not gonna get a lot of use down the road. Sell it complete with the safety gear, & get most if not all of your money back. A C


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## My Oslo heats my home (May 30, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> Craiglist is a good spot to look... 2 Brand New Husqvarna 460 Ranchers w/ 20" Bar, went up for $250 today. Both new and never used.
> 
> I have a 455 Rancher and for general firewood cutting, its all you need. I recently took off the 20" and put a 16" B & C on it. Big difference. Made a good saw, much better...
> 
> ...


 
I have the same 455. It does a great job with either bar.


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## MasterMech (May 30, 2012)

Scott2373 said:


> ... The first use this saw will see is going to be cutting up a 100' Tulip tree to give you an idea. It's probably about 5-6' in diameter at the base. ....


 
Gonna be rough cutting 5' trunks with a 20" bar. Especially on a MS290. If you're serious about cutting up a trunk that massive, buck up (literally, ) and buy a used 70+cc saw. If that trunk really is 5'+ you're looking for a 28" bar, minimum, 32"-36" would be better. You should be able to buy any saw in this class, get your work done, and re-sell for the same price if you take care of the machine and keep it cleaned up. Easiest to sell if it says Stihl or Husqvarna on the side. Hell you could buy a new saw and maybe only take a $150-$200 hit (on a $800 - $1000 saw) if the saw looked new when you were done. Unless you buy a new saw, you most likely will be buying a big bar for whatever you pick up.

Saws to keep an eye out for:

Stihl

051, 056AV, 056AV Super or 056AV Magnum
041AV Super (maybe), 044, 046 or MS440/MS460
MS441
064, 066, MS650, MS660

You wouldn't be crazy to pick up a 084/088/MS880 for a trunk that size but anything you buy for it (bars, chains, etc) will be more $$ than smaller saws and harder to sell since it will fit only a limited number of models.

Husqvarna

272XP, 372XP, 575XP, 576XP
281XP, 288XP, 385XP, 394XP, 390XP, 395XP

3120XP - Heed same warning I issued for the big Stihls.


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## weatherguy (May 31, 2012)

btuser said:


> I've got a ms250 and was initially disappointed with the performance until I switched to a more aggressive chain. It made 2x the difference. At first I figured it was the smaller CC size but I'm glad I didn't go for a "do it all" saw in the middle. The 250 is light and easily controllable for me. I'm not cutting for a living so a little more of my time is not that valuable.
> 
> Chaps are about $60. Gloves, helmet w/ face shield, gloves, wedges etc.
> 
> Good luck getting through a 5' round with 100 bucks.


 
Im thinking of getting that saw, what chain did you switch to that made a difference?


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## MasterMech (May 31, 2012)

weatherguy said:


> Im thinking of getting that saw, what chain did you switch to that made a difference?


 I'm guessing it was 26RSC-68 for the 18" bar.  Anything that fits the saw/bar and says RSC for the type should do nicely.


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## btuser (May 31, 2012)

weatherguy said:


> Im thinking of getting that saw, what chain did you switch to that made a difference?


Unfortunately, you're about to expose my ignorance(don't look at me!).

It comes stock with a saftey chain. Keep it for stumps/dirty wood. When I bought two new chains they asked me "full, semi, or saftey" and I said semi (I thought it would be a bad walking around full-throttle with a running chainsaw). I don't think a full chisel would be that much harder to control but with the different chain it cuts like a different saw, no doubt, yet still nice and light. I only cut 2 cord/year max, and most everything is 16" or below, so a single saw is good for me. If I was cutting more I'd got for a light saw for limbing and a larger saw for felling/bucking, but this is enough.

Could I cut up a 5' trunk with it?  I'd rent a larger saw or do the craigstreet hustle like others have suggested.  I know you're staring at that large tree thinking about all the free wood, but try to keep a level head about the cost/return of the project.  The best trees for firewood are 16" round, swiggly things and not monsters. Having to noodle rounds and getting your saw in the dirt cuz you can't roll the trunk is a lot of work for the same btu count.


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## DanCorcoran (May 31, 2012)

btuser said:


> I've got a ms250 and was initially disappointed with the performance until I switched to a more aggressive chain. It made 2x the difference. At first I figured it was the smaller CC size but I'm glad I didn't go for a "do it all" saw in the middle. The 250 is light and easily controllable for me. I'm not cutting for a living so a little more of my time is not that valuable.
> 
> Chaps are about $60. Gloves, helmet w/ face shield, gloves, wedges etc.
> 
> Good luck getting through a 5' round with 100 bucks.


 

BTUSER,

I just got an MS250 and, like you, am a little disappointed in the performance (still on its first tank of gas). Can you provide me with the exact description (part number) of the "more aggressive" chain you are using? I'd like to get one, but don't want to waste $25-30 on the wrong chain. Thanks!


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## HittinSteel (May 31, 2012)

Look at post #31. Stihl has made it easy. Just make sure your chain DOES NOT have a "3" after the description ex. RSC3 or RMC3 this is the safety chain. Safety chain will also have a green mark and packaging, you want Yellow.

Or just buy Oregon LGX in the right gauge and driver links configuration for your saw (should be marked on the bar).... I'm guessing .325 / 68 DL for an 18" bar.


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## DanCorcoran (May 31, 2012)

HittinSteel said:


> Look at post #31. Stihl has made it easy. Just make sure your chain DOES NOT have a "3" after the description ex. RSC3 or RMC3 this is the safety chain. Safety chain will also have a green mark and packaging, you want Yellow.
> 
> Or just buy Oregon LGX in the right gauge and driver links configuration for your saw (should be marked on the bar).... I'm guessing .325 / 68 DL for an 18" bar.


 

Yeah, btuser and I were both posting at the same time.  When I bought the saw, I bought 2 extra chains that I haven't opened.  I want to exchange them at my dealer for 2 new Stihl chains, non-safety.  From my research, it looks as though I should get Stihl #3629, 26-RM-68, for my 18-inch bar.  Can anyone confirm this?


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## HittinSteel (May 31, 2012)

If 26 and 68 are on your current extra chain boxes then:

I would get 26 RSC 68 for clean cutting conditions (this is "full" chisel non safety chain)

or

26 RMC 68 for dirty conditions (this is semi chisel non safety)


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## DMX_512 (Jun 4, 2012)

I bought a Makita DCS 6401(Dolmar PS6400) from Home Depot rental department a few years back for something like $215 out the door.
It has been a great saw.


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## Scott2373 (Jun 6, 2012)

Thank you everyone for the great advice. There is a Stihl 041av for sale near me, that comes with an extra carb for $150. I might look into this one. Otherwise, I might just go for the Blue Max at Home Depot. It's a 45cc/18" for $129 new and it's getting good reviews. Dunno who makes it, but since my budget is extremely limited (my wife doesn't understand...) it's an option.


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## MasterMech (Jun 6, 2012)

Blue Max is a Made in China nightmare. It's easier to get parts for that 30 year old 041AV than the Blue Max. PM (Start a conversation) with Danno77. He's a BlueMax owner and will give it to ya straight.

45cc/18" for $150? I'd be looking for a good used Stihl 025 or MS250. Should be able to find saws like the 031AV around for that price too.

Sometimes when it comes to the wife's approval, it's better to beg forgiveness rather than ask for permission.   They usually come around when it's 70+ in the house, 0 outside, and the heating bills are non-existant.  Think about how many MS362's you could buy with all the money you save on oil/propane/NG! ;


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## HittinSteel (Jun 7, 2012)

Tell your wife she can only spend $150 on clothes/shoes for the next 20 years....... (the minimum life of good quality chainsaw).


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## computeruser (Jun 7, 2012)

Having worked with big trees, both felling and blocking them up for firewood, this thread has been...interesting.  $150 for a BlueMax chainsaw to address a 5' tulip poplar?  Right.  

It's simple: buy the right tools for the job or pay someone who has the tools to do it for you.  The things that get cut from big trees are heavy, bulky, and dangerous.  

Just finished blocking up a 36"dbh/80' tall cottonwood that I had taken down with a crane earlier this week.  For the trunk pieces, 80cc/28" was enough, but the resulting rounds were still 250lbs+ and had to be quartered before I could carry them off or put them through the splitter.  Rounds out of a 5' white oak from a few years back required a Bobcat to move and even then were a tipping load.

If you're going to only buy one saw, buy a 60cc-class saw.  Buy a 16-18" bar for regular use, and a 24" bar with skip chain for occasional bigger cuts.  This will cut 90% of what you will ever encounter.  Skip the remaining 10% and call it good.


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## MasterMech (Jun 8, 2012)

computeruser said:


> Having worked with big trees, both felling and blocking them up for firewood, this thread has been...interesting. $150 for a BlueMax chainsaw to address a 5' tulip poplar? Right.
> 
> It's simple: buy the right tools for the job or pay someone who has the tools to do it for you. The things that get cut from big trees are heavy, bulky, and dangerous.
> 
> ...


 
ComputerUser is right and I keep forgetting the job is a _Five Foot_ diameter Poplar.  Going after that with anything less than a 60cc class saw is just rediculous.


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## lukem (Jun 8, 2012)

Scott2373 said:


> I AM NOT felling this tree. I am only cutting it for a friend after it's down. He generously offered me as much wood as I could take. I DO have experience using a chainsaw, but very limited. I am aware of how to use one safely including the recommended PPE. My questions only pertain to buying one because I don't know what factors go into owning one for the limited use it would see. Thanks for all the replies.


 
If it were me (you do as you please), I wouldn't be too concerned about trying to get a lot of hard to deal with (massive trunk) marginally desirable (tulip poplar) wood that's not in my yard (for a friend), using equipment I don't have, and can't (wife) and/or don't want to spend the money ($250) on buying.

I would get a good used saw that says "Stihl" or "Husqvarna XP" on the side (smaller saw, many good examples listed above).

Buck up what you can (from the top down) with a 18" or 20" bar, and leave the rest lay. Unless you are a very experienced cutter, with the proper equipment, you aren't going to have any kind of chance against that trunk. Even if you did have enough saw/bar to do it, those things pinch bars like you wouldn't believe unless you know how and have the stuff to wedge them properly. When you pinch your bar in a 5' trunk on a 100' tree, you are up the creek without a paddle. You can't exactly pick up the end or roll them over to free the bar (unless you have a BIG hoe handy).

Chaps are a good *investment*. They pay dividends in lack of ER bills.


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## Scott2373 (Jun 8, 2012)

I found a 024AV Wood Boss, but I don't know anything about it and it's not on the Stihl site, so I'm guessing it's an older model. Can anyone give me the lowdown and specs on this one? The saw, a bunch of chain oil and a set of chaps for $200. Good deal? Thanks!


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## MasterMech (Jun 10, 2012)

Scott2373 said:


> I found a 024AV Wood Boss, but I don't know anything about it and it's not on the Stihl site, so I'm guessing it's an older model. Can anyone give me the lowdown and specs on this one? The saw, a bunch of chain oil and a set of chaps for $200. Good deal? Thanks!


 
Depends on the condition of the saw itself. 024AV is indeed an older model (similar to a 026/MS260 but a tad smaller engine.)  The extras are nice but if you're still trying to tackle that 5' trunk, an 024AV (usually runs a 16-18" bar) ain't gonna get it done. I've seen running 024's on CL here for $100-$150.

Stihl 024AV - 41.6 cc, 2.1 kW/2.9 hp, 4.7 kg


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