# Rear Tire Chains?



## JV_Thimble (Dec 23, 2010)

I use a White GT-205 Lawn and Garden Tractor and a cart to haul things around in the summer. Useless in the winter, as there's no traction. Limited storage space, so not looking to get a new piece of equipment right now. Rather, I'm wondering if putting chains on the turf tires will be a big improvement. Would generally want to use them on the flat with a cart to haul wood around. Biggest challenge would probably be going up a slope from the yard to the driveway without a cart attached. No problem at all in the summer with that. 

Thanks in advance, 

John


----------



## RobC (Dec 24, 2010)

Chains make a big difference on power equipment, tractors and snowblowers. A trick to get them on snug is, let enough air out of tire so you can get the chain on and clipped. When you re-inflate the tire, the chain ends up nice and tight and the tire won't spin inside chain.


----------



## thewoodlands (Dec 24, 2010)

JV_Thimble said:
			
		

> I use a White GT-205 Lawn and Garden Tractor and a cart to haul things around in the summer. Useless in the winter, as there's no traction. Limited storage space, so not looking to get a new piece of equipment right now. Rather, I'm wondering if putting chains on the turf tires will be a big improvement. Would generally want to use them on the flat with a cart to haul wood around. Biggest challenge would probably be going up a slope from the yard to the driveway without a cart attached. No problem at all in the summer with that.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> John



+1 on what Robc said, also see if they make them for your tractor with the v-grip.



zap


----------



## JustWood (Dec 24, 2010)

I run them on tri-axles and yard loaders and it's a night and day difference.
Can't comment on a lawn tractor but it can't hurt.


----------



## gzecc (Dec 24, 2010)

Big improvement on L&G tractors.


----------



## JV_Thimble (Dec 24, 2010)

Thanks for all the comments. Are chains pretty common/easy to find at farm stores, or am I better off finding them on the web (have seen a few sources there), such as this? - http://www.amazon.com/Toro-MTD-Trac...1?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1293199045&sr=8-1

As my tires don't hold air that well (noticed one is flat right now), I often need to fill them before use. Would I maybe be better off getting Ag tires - much more aggressive tread? http://www.amazon.com/TURF-23X10-5-...2?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1293199045&sr=8-2 Those I'm pretty sure I could get locally. Might be a bit harder on the lawn in the summer, though (must admit I don't mow my own grass, neighbor is very reasonable for that). 

Easy enough to swap a tire with a jack and jackstands? 

Sorry for all the questions, when I needed to change a tire on my cart, they just had a complete replacement - tire and wheel. This is a bit more of a job. Seems do-able unless there may be problems with the rims (look good on the outside, tractor has always been stored in the garage). I assume these seal up against the rim/are tubeless, like most tires these days. 

Cheers, 

John


----------



## oldspark (Dec 24, 2010)

One of our farm stores stopped carrying any parts at all for tire chains, you can special order new chains but no parts to fix what you have, not sure that makes any sense.


----------



## savageactor7 (Dec 24, 2010)

^good point if you buy chains get some monkey links to make repairs...although with new chains you could be good for a few years.


----------



## Backwoods Savage (Dec 24, 2010)

I even put chains on our roto tiller when it had turf tires. Worked like a charm.


They will make a huge difference but I would not buy cheap chains. I recall buying some tire chains from Tractor Supply one time and there was so much space between the crossovers that they were almost worthless. Well, they did help but it was aggravating as the chain would just start to grip and then slip and grip and slip. You should get the idea.


----------



## Former Farmer (Dec 24, 2010)

Chains will work better than ag type tires.  The ag tires will still slip excessively on ice and hard packed snow.  Chains will be much better for that type of conditions.


----------



## JustWood (Dec 24, 2010)

I have several different length repair link/add on sections in my store if anyone needs some.
Ag or 4 wheeler tires will help some but like said hard pack and ice  will be a problem with any tire.

http://stores.ebay.com/LEEs-Sawmill...?_fsub=3&_sid=299571036&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322


----------



## Joe Matthews (Dec 25, 2010)

I recently ordered a set of chains to keep ready on a spare set of wheels for my truck from these people:

http://www.tirechain.com/index.html

They seem to sell chains for most anything, and have all types from cables to heavy duty double link V bars.... Good luck!


----------



## wahoowad (Dec 25, 2010)

I struggled to pull my wood cart with my lawn tractor last winter so put some tire chains on the rear. They made a big difference. LT was useless without them, could go a lot better with them. BUT, not knowing any better, I purchased 4-link chain. See my link below if you need a quick explanation of the difference between 4-link and 2-link. The 2-link gives much better traction. My 4-link tire chains slip a lot and I stalled a lot trying to go up slight grades with my wagon behind me. I doubt 2-link would have allowed the slip.

http://www.tirechain.com/Garden-Tractor-V-BAR-Chains.htm


----------



## Shari (Dec 25, 2010)

wahoowad said:
			
		

> I struggled to pull my wood cart with my lawn tractor last winter so put some tire chains on the rear. They made a big difference. LT was useless without them, could go a lot better with them. BUT, not knowing any better, I purchased 4-link chain. See my link below if you need a quick explanation of the difference between 4-link and 2-link. The 2-link gives much better traction. My 4-link tire chains slip a lot and I stalled a lot trying to go up slight grades with my wagon behind me. I doubt 2-link would have allowed the slip.
> 
> http://www.tirechain.com/Garden-Tractor-V-BAR-Chains.htm



Okay, now I understand 4 link vs 2 link!  I have 4 link. 

Can someone point me to where I can find 2 link, or a brand that is 2 link?

Shari


----------



## PapaDave (Dec 25, 2010)

I also got the 2 link v-bar set for my Cub GT with turf tires, and now I have no real problem grinding through some pretty deep snow piles while plowing. I may end up getting a set for the front too, since the front likes to slide quite often.
Had problems with losing air in the two front tires since I bought the tractor, so I got some of that green slime stuff.....end of problem.
Every time I went out to use the thing, had to air up. That was extremely annoying.
Ditto the advice to air down when installing, then re-air after they're on to tighten up.


----------



## OhioBurner© (Dec 25, 2010)

Shari said:
			
		

> Okay, now I understand 4 link vs 2 link!  I have 4 link.
> 
> Can someone point me to where I can find 2 link, or a brand that is 2 link?
> 
> Shari



Yep, definately get 2-links, worth the extra money for sure. I havent used the V-bar but if I were to get another set I'd give them a try. The link you posted about has them for sale...

As far as ag vs chained, for ice and hard packed snow there is no comparison that chains will work far better than unchained ag tires. Rubber doesnt stick to ice no matter how aggressive the tread is, but steel sticks to ice. You can do both, but to be honest chains work better on turf tires since they are more solid across the tread (ag tires have huge gaps) so the chain is kept pressed to the surface more. Ona  chained ag tire there is no pressure on the chain in the big voids between the bar lugs. Now the difference isnt that big, as long as you have chains you should be good. 

Chains can also help out with garden duty, I like running ag (or ag-like atv tires) for plowing and tilling the garden and mowing, but if money is tight and you already have the turf tires, chains will help in dirt too.

The next big step is weight! Chains make a huge difference but adding weight makes nearly the same jump in performance. I filled my tires with RV antifreeze and for the 23x10.5x12 I think I got about 50# each. The I put on some wheel weights, not sure of the weight, but any weight helps. I plan on making a mold and making my own weights out of cement.



			
				JV_Thimble said:
			
		

> As my tires don't hold air that well (noticed one is flat right now), I often need to fill them before use. Would I maybe be better off getting Ag tires - much more aggressive tread? http://www.amazon.com/TURF-23X10-5-...2?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1293199045&sr=8-2 Those I'm pretty sure I could get locally. Might be a bit harder on the lawn in the summer, though (must admit I don't mow my own grass, neighbor is very reasonable for that).


JV Thimble... those should be decent tires if your looking for an ag tire (but dont forget they arent a substitute for chains). Hi Run apparently bought some of Carlisle's equipment including the mold for thier Super Lug tires, which were a big hit. When they were produced by Carlisle, they were a bit harder rubber good for heavier equipment and loader, where thier Tru Power seemed to be more popular amongst garden tractors.

Here is another website yoy may want to look at, http://www.tiresunlimited.com/specialty_lawn_utility.htm if you happen to have a discount tire nearby I have had some luck with them pricematching as well. I got a set of ag-style ATV tires (these: http://www.tiresunlimited.com/ALL TIRES/Cheng Shin/CS GBC ATV/chengbcator.htm ) and had them pricematch.


----------



## Shari (Dec 25, 2010)

â–ºâ–ºOhioBurnerâ—„â—„â„¢ said:
			
		

> Shari said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Well, I'm sitting here now trying to figure out if I should add cross chains to what I have or just buy a new 2-link set.  The set I have is showing some wear.  I don't have ag tires with the bumpy tread like some tractors have.  I have had a problem getting the chains tight enough but I think I have a set that was rated "one size fits many tire sizes".  I do have wheel weights and do know those help also.  I'm running a Craftsman LT4000 with a blower attachment in winter - in summer, chains are removed, weights stay on, and I use my LT as my wood hauler in the yard.  I find keeping the weights on in summer stop tire spin in wet/dew covered grass.


----------



## OhioBurner© (Dec 25, 2010)

Shari said:
			
		

> Well, I'm sitting here now trying to figure out if I should add cross chains to what I have or just buy a new 2-link set.  The set I have is showing some wear.  I don't have ag tires with the bumpy tread like some tractors have.  I have had a problem getting the chains tight enough but I think I have a set that was rated "one size fits many tire sizes".  I do have wheel weights and do know those help also.  I'm running a Craftsman LT4000 with a blower attachment in winter - in summer, chains are removed, weights stay on, and I use my LT as my wood hauler in the yard.  I find keeping the weights on in summer stop tire spin in wet/dew covered grass.


To get chains tight I did 2 things... first thing is I had to trim the chains down. I think I had to cut out nerly 6" of chain, even though the chains were labled for the size I had. Deflate your tire and get the chains as tight as they can get, then re inflate the tire. I went a couple years with bungee cords holding everything tight (well not really) until someone told me those tricks. Works like a charm and the chains dont hardly budge.

I hear you about keeping the weights on even when mowing. Same reason I run the Ag style tires even while mowing. The turf tires tore up the grass terrible due to slipping. Our yard is very uneven and lots of little hills. Turf tires were horrible. Ag tires will gouge for sure but only when they slip - and mine hardly ever do. I also upgraded the front to stop front end slippage, Vredestein V61's:  http://images50.fotki.com/v1524/photos/2/229137/6918193/V61s-vi.jpg and plan on getting a set of tri-ribs, especially for snow plowing.

I attached a pic of my snow removal tractor... had the tires filled last year when I took the pic but no weights on it then.


----------



## Joe Matthews (Dec 25, 2010)

Shari, The link I posted has 2 link and 4 link chains available. I bought a set of 2 link chains for my truck, and I believe they have the 2 link available in most sizes....


----------



## Shari (Dec 25, 2010)

Thanks everyone - lots of great info here for my needs!

Question:  What does anyone think about the necessity of having the chain tensioners?  Our driveway is basically flat, no inclines, but we've been known to get 3-1/2' drifts that I have to get through.


----------



## OhioBurner© (Dec 25, 2010)

Shari said:
			
		

> Thanks everyone - lots of great info here for my needs!
> 
> Question:  What does anyone think about the necessity of having the chain tensioners?  Our driveway is basically flat, no inclines, but we've been known to get 3-1/2' drifts that I have to get through.



Having a tight chain is important for many reasons. The proper way would be to trim the chain down to the right size (I cut 3 whole cross links out of mine, it was way to long) and do the deflate, install, reinflate trick. If you don't want to do the above method, then I suppose chain tensioners would help keep it tight.


----------



## Shari (Dec 25, 2010)

â–ºâ–ºOhioBurnerâ—„â—„â„¢ said:
			
		

> Shari said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



What type of tools do you use to cut chain down?  

Shari


----------



## Former Farmer (Dec 25, 2010)

Bolt cutters, chop saw, angle grinder with a cut-off blade (even a grinding disc if you don't have a cut-off blade), hack saw, sawzall with fine tooth blade, basically anything that will cut larger metal objects will cut chain.


----------



## Shari (Dec 25, 2010)

Former Farmer said:
			
		

> Bolt cutters, chop saw, angle grinder with a cut-off blade (even a grinding disc if you don't have a cut-off blade), hack saw, sawzall with fine tooth blade, basically anything that will cut larger metal objects will cut chain.



...and you are cutting out chain from the center of the cross over and then somehow reattaching the two ends?  What tool is used to reattach?  (This is Chain-How-To Dummy Style for me! )


----------



## blel (Dec 25, 2010)

As far as the problem of always having to add air to tires goes, just put tubes in the tires, end of problem.


----------



## Backwoods Savage (Dec 25, 2010)

If it needs only a couple links to shorten it, we've just doubled over the chain and wired it together. That will work for the whole season.


----------



## OhioBurner© (Dec 26, 2010)

Shari said:
			
		

> ...and you are cutting out chain from the center of the cross over and then somehow reattaching the two ends?  What tool is used to reattach?  (This is Chain-How-To Dummy Style for me! )



Cutting off the end that is just a regular chain end, so you are left with a regular chain end if that makes any sense. The other end should have the attachment peices so dont cut those off. I had to cut quite a bit off so it was necessary for me, but yeah if its just a couple links you could just tie it off. I used bolt cutters, for all the more I use bolt cutters for the cheap ones from HF are all I need. My chains have a hook on one side and the other side has an odd looking piece that loops through the link on the other side then back on itself and locks in place. So other than something to cut the chain, no special tools needed (well except an air compressor if your going to deflate & reinflate the tires). Oh and make sure the sharp chain ends are pointing out and not into your tire.


----------



## Shari (Dec 26, 2010)

â–ºâ–ºOhioBurnerâ—„â—„â„¢ said:
			
		

> Shari said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Ah, we are talking about two different things:  I'm talking about the cross chains, the ones that go across the tread not the chain that goes around sidewall.


----------



## ISeeDeadBTUs (Dec 27, 2010)

Last year, at I absolut LEE insisted on a set of http://tirechain.com/DUO-GRIP-V-BAR.htm


Great for ice! I am now toying with them for the fronts.


----------

