# leaking roof around vent pipe



## OhioBurner© (Oct 2, 2016)

I mentioned this before and was told those rubber boot things should work. I didn't have any pics until now though. I was looking at those boots at lowes the other day and was really wasn't sure. Anyhow now I have a couple pics does it seem like they would fit? It's a standing seam roof and the problem is the one seam that is close (about 1") to the side of the vent pipe. I know I've seen the boots angle up a similar seam but it usually has some more distance. Would the boot have to come all the way to the roof and then fold straight back up all withing the space of my pinky?








I can't believe they didn't move this slightly before cutting into the roof.


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## festerw (Oct 3, 2016)

I used one of these to flash mine, I just have a standard rib roof but it was close to a rib and this was flexible enough to mold around the rib.  I added a bead of silicone at the edge for insurance even though it's all rubberized.

http://www.oatey.com/products/flashings/roof-flashings/master-flash-roof-flashings


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## Wooden Head (Oct 3, 2016)

OhioBurner© said:


> I mentioned this before and was told those rubber boot things should work. I didn't have any pics until now though. I was looking at those boots at lowes the other day and was really wasn't sure. Anyhow now I have a couple pics does it seem like they would fit? It's a standing seam roof and the problem is the one seam that is close (about 1") to the side of the vent pipe. I know I've seen the boots angle up a similar seam but it usually has some more distance. Would the boot have to come all the way to the roof and then fold straight back up all withing the space of my pinky?
> 
> View attachment 184953
> 
> ...


I have replace


OhioBurner© said:


> I mentioned this before and was told those rubber boot things should work. I didn't have any pics until now though. I was looking at those boots at lowes the other day and was really wasn't sure. Anyhow now I have a couple pics does it seem like they would fit? It's a standing seam roof and the problem is the one seam that is close (about 1") to the side of the vent pipe. I know I've seen the boots angle up a similar seam but it usually has some more distance. Would the boot have to come all the way to the roof and then fold straight back up all withing the space of my pinky?
> 
> View attachment 184953
> 
> ...



I've replaced the boots on a my metal roof. If you have a Menards in your area they carry boots for metal roofs. The boot has a metal ring around the outside of flange that fastens to the roof. You form the metal to conform to the contour of the roof surface. There is a special caulk that they sell to seal the boot to the roof surface (seems like it's named Geo-something). It's around $8 a tube. It's a clear caulk and the only caulk that I've found that seals properly and holds up to the weather. If you need the full name of the caulk, let me know. I have a tube in the garage.


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## Wooden Head (Oct 3, 2016)

I forgot to mention, Put screws in the boot/roof every 1 inch. This may seem like overkill, but the roofer that did my roof put them in every 3 inches. That is why I had to replace the boot after the first winter when sliding ice/snow ripped the boots off the roof.


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## Wooden Head (Oct 3, 2016)

I found the sealant. It's Ultima Roof Sealant, made by Geocel Products. For questions call 800-348-7615


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## OhioBurner© (Oct 5, 2016)

Thanks guys, I'll look again next time I'm in a Menards. Hopefully it will work. When going over the rib, do you attach it to the rib or just silicone it up one sode and down the other with a screw on the roof to each side?


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## Wooden Head (Oct 6, 2016)

OhioBurner© said:


> Thanks guys, I'll look again next time I'm in a Menards. Hopefully it will work. When going over the rib, do you attach it to the rib or just silicone it up one sode and down the other with a screw on the roof to each side?



Screw on each side of the rib. Just don't use silicone.


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## OhioBurner© (Oct 6, 2016)

Wooden Head said:


> Screw on each side of the rib. Just don't use silicone.



That isn't quite clear to me, do you mean a screw on the roof to each side of the rib or a screw through the actual side of the rib (which would then stick through and out the other side?). And why no sealant on the ribs?


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## Wooden Head (Oct 8, 2016)

The screws go on each side of the rib. For application of the sealant, I first put the boot over the pipe and form the edge/collar toe the contour of the roofing. I then draw an outline of the boot onto the roof with a magic marker. I also mark where the screws are to be placed along the collar of the boot (they should be approx. 1 inch apart). I remove the boot from the pipe and take it to an area where it will be easy to drill the holes for the screws. Apply the sealant on the inside of the outline you drew on the roof. Put the boot over the pipe and press the collar into the sealant. Put the screws thru the collar into the roof.

You may want to pre-drill  the holes into the roof, using the collar holes as a guide.

Hope this helps


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## OhioBurner© (Oct 9, 2016)

Thanks, hopefully I'll be in town and able to stop by somewhere that will have a boot in the upcoming week.


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## OhioBurner© (Oct 11, 2016)

Well I struck out today with the biggest local hardware store. Looking for some pipe that will slip or telescope to make the final connection on the stove, and the vent pipe boot. They had 2 style boots but neither would fit with the rib. I'll have to try someplace in the city when I get a chance...


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## Hogwildz (Oct 14, 2016)

do you have space underneath to use elbows to relocate the pipe in the center of the panel?


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## OhioBurner© (Oct 15, 2016)

I think so, haven't been in the attic in a few years though. But at this point the hole is already cut and it's all the way to the rib. I actually just ordered the Oatey product Fester linked to in the second post. After going to several hardware stores around here and finding only rigid ones that could not be bent to clear the rib I decided to check online and got the flashing on amazon for $20. Oatey 14053 Master Flash. We'll give it a shot.


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## Hogwildz (Oct 15, 2016)

Do yourself a favor, and build a tallish cricket on the roof behind the pipe. That will keep any snow load and most water diverted around the pipe & flashing, and keep heavy snow loads from pushing against the pipe.

Easier to patch the existing hole, and move the pipe for a better seal. Be wary of that boot. It surface mounts, so any failure of the sealant at top, will allow water to get in underneath the flashing .

Typically, the pipe flashing top would slide up under a slit cut into the roof, so that it is not bucking water.

You should look into urethane caulk rather than silicone. It will last much longer, and seals much better.


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## festerw (Oct 15, 2016)

Hogwildz said:


> Do yourself a favor, and build a tallish cricket on the roof behind the pipe. That will keep any snow load and most water diverted around the pipe & flashing, and keep heavy snow loads from pushing against the pipe.
> 
> Easier to patch the existing hole, and move the pipe for a better seal. Be wary of that boot. It surface mounts, so any failure of the sealant at top, will allow water to get in underneath the flashing .
> 
> ...




Is there a way to flash a metal roof that isn't surface mount?

I also misspoke earlier I did use a urethane roof sealant not silicone.


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## Hogwildz (Oct 15, 2016)

festerw said:


> Is there a way to flash a metal roof that isn't surface mount?
> 
> I also misspoke earlier I did use a urethane roof sealant not silicone.


All roof flashing for a metal roof are going to be surface mount. The difference between different types & brands, is some are entirely surface mount, others have a top flange the slides up into a slit in the metal at the roof surface above the pipe, that way water is going downhill, and not rushing against a seam. With roofing, it is always best practice to have any flashings, seams etc, overlapping running down hill. That way, as the water runs down, cannot run under, only over and down just as shingles, slate, even any seams in metal(which there usually isn't any horizontal seams, except for real long runs that cannot be produced long enough for a single run.


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## sportbikerider78 (Oct 26, 2016)

I've had my share of roofing fun,,but only  on asphalt roofs.  

What about this one?  Looks really nice to me.  Seems to be consistent with the advice above.


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## mcdougy (Nov 5, 2016)

The master flash is the way to go....if you have access to below the sheet metal. I recommend that you try and get some wood under the metal where the flashing screws will penetrate. Don't be shy with silicone or caulking. A full tube is $7. I have installed too many metal roofs to not know that this is your best bet


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## OhioBurner© (Nov 8, 2016)

Alright, so just a follow up since I did the work about a week or so ago. The Master flash or whatever it was called was definitely better than anything I could get locally. However it was still a bit challenging to contort it over the rib, and even with all that extra flexy corrugated rubber it felt like it was at it's most extreme stretch by having a 90 degree inside corner to 90 degree outside corner to another 90 degree inside corner if you get what I am saying. Also made a bit of a mess with the silicone since I could not preshape the boot, it ended up moving quite a bit by the time it was in final position. I was looking for urethane but couldn't find any and a fellow said this non-acid cure silicone they had was really good so I went with that. I'm not sure about a cricket, I looked it up, if I have time yet this fall maybe will try but I don't really get enough snow to cause any worry about snow loading.


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## nmcqueen469 (Nov 8, 2016)

Good info here. Hadn't even considered adding anything above to keep snow from pushing my pipe around. 
	

		
			
		

		
	





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mcdougy (Nov 8, 2016)

OhioBurner© said:


> Alright, so just a follow up since I did the work about a week or so ago. The Master flash or whatever it was called was definitely better than anything I could get locally. However it was still a bit challenging to contort it over the rib, and even with all that extra flexy corrugated rubber it felt like it was at it's most extreme stretch by having a 90 degree inside corner to 90 degree outside corner to another 90 degree inside corner if you get what I am saying. Also made a bit of a mess with the silicone since I could not preshape the boot, it ended up moving quite a bit by the time it was in final position. I was looking for urethane but couldn't find any and a fellow said this non-acid cure silicone they had was really good so I went with that. I'm not sure about a cricket, I looked it up, if I have time yet this fall maybe will try but I don't really get enough snow to cause any worry about snow loading.
> View attachment 187515
> View attachment 187516
> View attachment 187517



Should be ok....you will get it a bit better on your next one.  Are the screws into anything under the steal or simply thru the metal?  And fyi the boot can be removed and reinstalled if necessary.


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## OhioBurner© (Nov 9, 2016)

mcdougy said:


> Should be ok....you will get it a bit better on your next one.  Are the screws into anything under the steal or simply thru the metal?  And fyi the boot can be removed and reinstalled if necessary.


Yes the roof has sheathing under (OSB I presume).

I have another vent pipe on the other side of the house that is just sealed up with silicon currently but will likely boot it as well. It's close to a rib too. However that roof has no sheathing, just the thin strips, and it's not really accessible since it was renovated last year with sprayfoam and 3 layers of foam board about 5" thick. Any other particular method to screw this down on unsheathed metal or should I leave that one with just silicone?


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## mcdougy (Nov 9, 2016)

OhioBurner© said:


> Yes the roof has sheathing under (OSB I presume).
> 
> I have another vent pipe on the other side of the house that is just sealed up with silicon currently but will likely boot it as well. It's close to a rib too. However that roof has no sheathing, just the thin strips, and it's not really accessible since it was renovated last year with sprayfoam and 3 layers of foam board about 5" thick. Any other particular method to screw this down on unsheathed metal or should I leave that one with just silicone?



Your roof screws should be the fine thread type if no wood under metal. There are course thread and you don't want to use them. 1" length is best. I would put the boot on vs just silicone.  Try getting the boot tighter with no wrinkles.  The 1" fine thread screws will hold decent enough since wood is not an option in this scenario. Don't be shy with the silicone again.


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## Hogwildz (Nov 10, 2016)

OhioBurner© said:


> Alright, so just a follow up since I did the work about a week or so ago. The Master flash or whatever it was called was definitely better than anything I could get locally. However it was still a bit challenging to contort it over the rib, and even with all that extra flexy corrugated rubber it felt like it was at it's most extreme stretch by having a 90 degree inside corner to 90 degree outside corner to another 90 degree inside corner if you get what I am saying. Also made a bit of a mess with the silicone since I could not preshape the boot, it ended up moving quite a bit by the time it was in final position. I was looking for urethane but couldn't find any and a fellow said this non-acid cure silicone they had was really good so I went with that. I'm not sure about a cricket, I looked it up, if I have time yet this fall maybe will try but I don't really get enough snow to cause any worry about snow loading.
> View attachment 187515
> View attachment 187516
> View attachment 187517


Look up water cut off mastic, and put some behind the rubber boot at the top, and put a big pipe clamp over the top. Standard practice.
See nmcqueen469's photo for reference.


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