# Insulating a Pole Building



## 10range (Feb 7, 2011)

I am looking for advice for insulating an existing pole building on my property.  At this point, spray foam (which I would prefer) is out due to the cost locally. The building appears to be fairly standard pole barn construction with horizontal girts 24" oc on the walls.  Trusses are 48" oc.  Currently there is no insulation in the building although both the garage and man door are insulated.  The building does not need to be up to living temps, just warm enough to keep food jars and what not from freezing during winter.  Any suggestions?


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## PapaDave (Feb 7, 2011)

Mine is insulated. R19 in the walls, and R30 in the attic. Without heat, it will still get below freezing in there. 
I went out there today with the outside temp of 20, and inside the pole barn was 28.
I don't keep the furnace running unless I'll be out there for a bit.


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## Highbeam (Feb 8, 2011)

Between the posts construct 2x6 stud walls and insulate with faced fiberglass batts, an easy R-19. On the ceiling the easiest method is to build a ceiling out of either OSB, sheetrock, or metal panels only strong enough to hold the weight of the blown in insulation that you'll use above it. The ceiling material should be white and will brighten the shop. You'll need to install some sort of framing between the trusses to support the ceiling material more often than 48" OC. None of the previous mentioned framing is structural but really is just to allow you to insulate. 

Then you need to figure out how to heat the space. Insulation doesn't create heat.


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## semipro (Feb 8, 2011)

How airtight is the pole building?  Installation of thermal insulation will do little if the infiltration rate is high.  

No matter how much air sealing and insulation you do you may have to introduce some heat to keep temps above freezing.


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## jebatty (Feb 8, 2011)

I did why Highbeam suggested, a 32 x 48 with 12 x 12 insulated door, insulated service door, and 2 - 2 x 4 double pane windows. Also concrete floor, perimeter 2" foam down 30", and 2" foam under the concrete. Heat loss average in January (average temp would have been pretty close to +5) is right around 18,000 btuh. Heat is needed to keep above freezing.


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## Highbeam (Feb 9, 2011)

You insulated the whole slab jebatty? I suppose it is cold up there. Did you heat the slab with hydro?


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## jebatty (Feb 9, 2011)

Insulated the whole slab. Pex in floor radiant heat. Very satisfied with result. Coldest this winter so far was -36F, not likely to get that cold again this year, but still expect plenty of below 0 night temps.


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## woodsmaster (Feb 10, 2011)

If you just have some food and paint you dont want  to freeze, build a insulated heat room the size you need and heat it with a light bulb.


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## fbelec (Feb 10, 2011)

woodsmaster said:
			
		

> If you just have some food and paint you dont want  to freeze, build a insulated heat room the size you need and heat it with a light bulb.



+1


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## 10range (Feb 10, 2011)

Thanks for the ideas.  I was leaning towards the ridged foam insulation.  A bit more info, the building will be heated with a basic radiator and blower setup piped in from a boiler.  My goal is to keep the building warm enough to keep from freezing and be warm enough to work in over the winter (50-60 degrees).  A far as air infiltration, the building has a 12 vented soffit on the sides and the peak has some sort of foam ridge vent.  Will this cause issues with the insulation or will I need to add some sort of extra insulation/vents?


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## fbelec (Feb 11, 2011)

your going to need some sort of ceiling. all your heat will be going out the ridge vent.


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## bioman (Feb 18, 2011)

might look at radiant barrier. works good for me!!


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## benjamin (Feb 18, 2011)

No help with insulating the polebarn, but another good alternative for paint etc. is to put it in a chest freezer and put a thermostatic heat tape around the bottom inside.  Very cheap and effective.


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