# the dangers of wood splitting



## philaphire (Sep 12, 2009)

Well, it was a matter of time before a splinter off my wedge got the best of me.  Today I was splitting a small round, about 4 or so inches in diameter.  Since it was so small, and yes I know 4 inches is the break point for most, I was using a small sledge and wedge holding the round with my left hand.  I hit the wedge and immediately feel a sharp pain in my left forearm.  Blood is pouring out of my arm so I quick call to my wife for a towel.  Upon cleaning the area I see two wounds one smaller and one larger.  My hunch is that a splinter off my wedge shot through my arm like a bullet.   Headed to the ER, bleeding of course stopped.  Triage nurse was only concerned about my last tetanus booster, which I have to call my docs office Monday but I'm pretty sure it was last year.  Not sure how I could have prevented it other than just in the future not having any limb too close to the wedge.  I'll spare you pics, but my forearm looks like it was bitten by a large snake/small dog/vampire.


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## WOODBUTCHER (Sep 12, 2009)

philaphire said:
			
		

> Well, it was a matter of time before a splinter off my wedge got the best of me.  Today I was splitting a small round, about 4 or so inches in diameter.  Since it was so small, and yes I know 4 inches is the break point for most, I was using a small sledge and wedge holding the round with my left hand.  I hit the wedge and immediately feel a sharp pain in my left forearm.  Blood is pouring out of my arm so I quick call to my wife for a towel.  Upon cleaning the area I see two wounds one smaller and one larger.  My hunch is that a splinter off my wedge shot through my arm like a bullet.   Headed to the ER, bleeding of course stopped.  Triage nurse was only concerned about my last tetanus booster, which I have to call my docs office Monday but I'm pretty sure it was last year.  Not sure how I could have prevented it other than just in the future not having any limb too close to the wedge.  I'll spare you pics, but my forearm looks like it was bitten by a large snake/small dog/vampire.



Glad you're  ok, someone here got it in the leg awhile back....I'm sure he'll chime in soon.

WoodButcher


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## peterc38 (Sep 12, 2009)

Wow, glad your ok.

I don't like wedges for that reason, especially the cheapo ones made nowadays.

A guy here in Maine got killed last year under similar conditions, piece broke off and severed his femoral artery.

http://www.bangordailynews.com/detail/51314.html


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## Backwoods Savage (Sep 12, 2009)

Glad you aren't hurt bad, but those things can hurt a lot. 

Periodically, inspect those wedges. When needed, simply grind off the edges before they fly off. It's one of those little things like sharpening your axe and saw. I hope many read this and it proves a lesson before any others get hurt. Just imagine one of those pieces flying off the wedge and hitting someone that is standing nearby!


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## philaphire (Sep 12, 2009)

peterc38 said:
			
		

> Wow, glad your ok.
> 
> I don't like wedges for that reason, especially the cheapo ones made nowadays.
> 
> ...



ok - after reading that article - I'm really glad to be okay!  Thanks for you all your well wishes and everyone - CHECK YOUR WEDGES AND SMOOTH THEM OUT!


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## rdust (Sep 12, 2009)

I had to get 4 stitches in my right forearm last year when a piece of my sledge broke off when I was hitting a wedge.  It was a piece of knotty pine and I should have given up on long before it hurt me.  :lol:  They had to cut me open and dig the piece out then stitch me back up.  I always check the edges now before using them.


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## LLigetfa (Sep 13, 2009)

I saw a guy take a sliver in the willie.  He sure did yelp.


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## BrotherBart (Sep 13, 2009)

LLigetfa said:
			
		

> I saw a guy take a sliver in the willie.  He sure did yelp.



Did ya help him bandage it?  :lol:


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## LLigetfa (Sep 13, 2009)

Nope.  Don't know how bad it was cuz I didn't ask to see it but it was no John and Lorena Bobbitt case.  He was back to work the same day.


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## ikessky (Sep 13, 2009)

Glad to hear it wasn't too serious.  Here's to a speedy recovery!

Last year, I feel off a ladder onto my deck, with my left leg going through the rungs and landing with my full weight onto the ladder (260lbs).  Ended up at the doctor for x-rays and thankfully it wasn't broken.  Had to wear a compression bandage for a few days though and the nurse was worried about a clot forming.  People always think that running a chainsaw and felling trees is the most dangerous aspect of doing firewood, but sometimes it's the things that you think are relatively "safe" that end up getting you!


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## wendell (Sep 13, 2009)

You most likely don't need a tetanus shot unless your wedge has been in contact with soil in which feces is present. It is a very over administered shot.

http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/tetanus/DS00227/DSECTION=causes


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## gerry100 (Sep 13, 2009)

Glad you are OK.

I've found If you get far enough ahead on the supply ( 1 year plus). You don't need to split stuff under 7-8" dia and the "big uglies" ( crotches, etc) can be sawed to stove door size and put aside even a little longer.

Everything else can be done with a maul/axe and wedges aren't needed.


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## kbrown (Sep 13, 2009)

Wonder how many people also wear safety glasses (ANSI approved, not just sunglasses that say they are) while splitting, even if not using a wedge. I had also read the news link mentioned here as well as the thread with the guy who had the piece fly off into his leg. Both make me feel much better about getting a splitter recently; got a great CL score of an MTD 20 ton for $700 - will post that over in the gear section later. Really glad to hear that you are ok. I was giving my neighbor a hand last weekend splitting some maple and oak rounds and it was his first time using my Fiskars pro splitting axe and I had warned him to make sure he was wearing gloves which for the most part he did. However, the one time he had taken them off and returned to using the axe, he gave himself a nice 4" long cut into the base of his thumb while cleaning off a chunk of wood from the axe. He couldn't believe how sharp that thing was; didn't even feel it at first. Luckily it wasn't bad and didn't need more than some peroxide cleaning, but he sure did wear gloves and glasses the rest of the day! LOL...got my splitter the very next day; boy he was pissed!  I still like manual splitting though, it's a great workout and helps me unwind after a crappy work week. Will use the splitter for the hard ones and larger stuff; at least until Backwoods tells everyone how to make kindling with a splitter!


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## Backwoods Savage (Sep 13, 2009)

heatit said:
			
		

> Wonder how many people also wear safety glasses (ANSI approved, not just sunglasses that say they are) while splitting, even if not using a wedge. I had also read the news link mentioned here as well as the thread with the guy who had the piece fly off into his leg. Both make me feel much better about getting a splitter recently; got a great CL score of an MTD 20 ton for $700 - will post that over in the gear section later. Really glad to hear that you are ok. I was giving my neighbor a hand last weekend splitting some maple and oak rounds and it was his first time using my Fiskars pro splitting axe and I had warned him to make sure he was wearing gloves which for the most part he did. However, the one time he had taken them off and returned to using the axe, he gave himself a nice 4" long cut into the base of his thumb while cleaning off a chunk of wood from the axe. He couldn't believe how sharp that thing was; didn't even feel it at first. Luckily it wasn't bad and didn't need more than some peroxide cleaning, but he sure did wear gloves and glasses the rest of the day! LOL...got my splitter the very next day; boy he was pissed!  I still like manual splitting though, it's a great workout and helps me unwind after a crappy work week. Will use the splitter for the hard ones and larger stuff; at least until Backwoods tells everyone how to make kindling with a splitter!



Hey, I was going to do that a couple weeks ago when it turned pretty cool but got busy on some other jobs. Maybe I can get to that this coming week. And if so, while I have the camera out, I'll try to get some pictures of the fall colors coming on.


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## LLigetfa (Sep 13, 2009)

heatit said:
			
		

> Will use the splitter for the hard ones and larger stuff; at least until Backwoods tells everyone how to make kindling with a splitter!


I'm guessing BWS has a different notion than I do of the size of kin'lin.  I just cannot see how the blunt edge of a MTD splitter can split stuff down to 3/4" squares.  The smallest rounds I can split in half is about 2 inches and to quarter that down to 4 pieces, well... I think I'd mush more than I could split.  Maybe I should take a grinder and sharpen up the wedge.

Anyway, kin'lin is easy to make with a hatchet and I just cannot see myself wasting gas and splitter run-hours on it.  I was thinking though about a small foot operated splitter I could keep in the house where it is nice and warm since I don't have the patience to make up enough kin'lin in advance and end up standing out in sub-zero weather.


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## Backwoods Savage (Sep 13, 2009)

Well, keep watching and I'll post a series of pictures or a video soon on making kindling....and I'll even use that blunt end of the splitter. Not only that, but you'll find that it takes a very, very little amount of gas to split a big bunch of kindling. 

btw, I don't set about making all the kindling at the same time. As I am splitting wood, when I come upon a log that looks like it will make good kindling, then I just do it and throw the kindling right into the pile. Then when I am building the ends of the stack in cross hatch style, the kindling goes in the end holes, so kindling usually ends up all over the ends of the stacks. If I have too much then it just gets stacked with the regular stuff.


EDIT:  when it is sub-zero temperature outdoors, there is no need for kindling. Kindling is used only in spring and fall months.


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## LLigetfa (Sep 13, 2009)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> EDIT:  when it is sub-zero temperature outdoors, there is no need for kindling. Kindling is used only in spring and fall months.


Maybe for you.  Here on the Celsius scale it's sub-zero most of the Winter.  That said, the wife decreed no more 24/7 burning from now on so that means lots of start-up fires.


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## waynek (Sep 13, 2009)

wendell said:
			
		

> You most likely don't need a tetanus shot unless your wedge has been in contact with soil in which feces is present. It is a very over administered shot.
> 
> http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/tetanus/DS00227/DSECTION=causes



Correct me if I am wrong, but I came away with a different take on the Mayo Clinic report. I read it to mean the bacteria is found in soil and dust and feces. So if your wedge is dusty or came in contact with soil you could become infected. Feces does not have to be present in this case to become infected.

I keep up on my tetanus shots for many reasons, but the main reason is I work around barbed fence wire and always seem to get scratched now and again...even though I try to wear protective clothing and gloves.
jackpine


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## LLigetfa (Sep 13, 2009)

I'm always concerned about mouse feces when handling wood.


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## wendell (Sep 13, 2009)

Unfortunately, i was too lazy to find a better link. There has to have been fecal material for the tetanus bacteria to be present.

And if I was working around old barbed wire, I would keep up to date, too. I was referring more to getting cut in a shop or other places where no soil is possibly present and the first thing they want to do is stick you.


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## eernest4 (Sep 14, 2009)

heatit said:
			
		

> Wonder how many people also wear safety glasses (ANSI approved, not just sunglasses that say they are) while splitting, even if not using a wedge. I had also read the news link mentioned here as well as the thread with the guy who had the piece fly off into his leg. Both make me feel much better about getting a splitter recently; got a great CL score of an MTD 20 ton for $700 - will post that over in the gear section later. Really glad to hear that you are ok. I was giving my neighbor a hand last weekend splitting some maple and oak rounds and it was his first time using my Fiskars pro splitting axe and I had warned him to make sure he was wearing gloves which for the most part he did. However, the one time he had taken them off and returned to using the axe, he gave himself a nice 4" long cut into the base of his thumb while cleaning off a chunk of wood from the axe. He couldn't believe how sharp that thing was; didn't even feel it at first. Luckily it wasn't bad and didn't need more than some peroxide cleaning, but he sure did wear gloves and glasses the rest of the day! LOL...got my splitter the very next day; boy he was pissed!  I still like manual splitting though, it's a great workout and helps me unwind after a crappy work week. Will use the splitter for the hard ones and larger stuff; at least until Backwoods tells everyone how to make kindling with a splitter!




HOW 2 MAKE KINDLING WITH A gas or electric SPLITTER****************


I have a huskey 22 ton horz & vertical splitter with a 6.5 hp B&S;engine. I find that smaller splits are easier & faster in horizontal mode  & large heavy rounds are easier to work with in vertical mode; as less heavy lifting is required in vert mode but better split positioning to the moving wedge  is available in horz mode.

My splitter can always shave 1/4 inch thick slices off of most wood & usually 1/16th shavings
depending on the wood. My wedge moves on the ram & the end of the I beam has a 9 inch rectangular
foot to it to catch the end of the round: so,   to make a shave of wood from a split,
 just stop the ram about 3/8 of a inch from where it would touch the wood & carefully position the wood to the ram wedge for the thickness of wood you want 2 shave off the split.

I have quartered a 1 inch diameter branch with my huskey as well as a 4 ft diameter tree trunk slice; although for the 4 ft diameter tree trunk slice I have to raise the engine rmp somewhat above idle speed. For some big knarly, knotty & stringly mothers, I actually had to use full
 throttle for 45 seconds .  

I can split 1 to 3 cords a day with this michine, depending on the weather, the wood & my current (lack of ) health.

The only time I ever use sledges & wedges is when I get rounds too heavy too move towards the gas splitter and rolling them is impractical due to terrain considerations or the rounds need to be lifted into a pick up truck for transport to the splitter.

At 61 yrs, cut ,split & delevered is starting to look good to me, although I will still split some wood just because I enjoy it, up to the point where I am tired & don't want to do it any more but need to get done before the rains start.

I got all the wood that I had, done for this year & into the shed. I just hope I have enough or5 I'll find out how much i like paying for c,s & d  a lot sooner that I planned for.


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## LLigetfa (Sep 14, 2009)

Speeco (and Huskee) splitters have a much sharper, narrower two stage wedge than the MTD which is very blunt and thick.  The MTD wedge cannot shave 1/16 off anything.  With the fat wedge, running it off center would likely cause the split to blow out the side, and not run straight through.  Even splitting with my 2-12 lb axe, I always go for the middle and then re-split each half, halving each half as I go.


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## TreePapa (Sep 14, 2009)

Sorry, but why would anyone even think about using a wedge on a 4-in split? Unless it's ironwood, or elm full o' knows, a 3 # ax should be all you need.

Peace,
- Sequoia


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## Flatbedford (Sep 14, 2009)

Glad that you injuries were not serious. I just grinded the mushrooms of my wedge yesterday. The previous post about the leg got me thinking about it. Splitting Oak, Cherry, Locust, and Ash with my Fiskars, I  haven't needed my wedges in a long time. The Maple I've been  working on needs some wedge work. I try to use the wedge is little as possible, it seems to add a degree of danger to the hand splitting process. Steel into wood is OK, but when you have to hit the steel with more steel, there is more chance of problems. I can't wait to get back to the more easy (and safe) splitting woods.


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## philaphire (Sep 15, 2009)

TreePapa said:
			
		

> Sorry, but why would anyone even think about using a wedge on a 4-in split? Unless it's ironwood, or elm full o' knows, a 3 # ax should be all you need.
> 
> Peace,
> - Sequoia



It was elm - with a curve so it couldn't stand and I had to hold it .  The real question is why I bothered splitting it in the first place.  I have a very arbitrary system as to which small rounds I decide to split and which I don't.  As you can imagine many a small round will NOT be split from here on out!


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## sandie (Dec 25, 2009)

the importance of the Tetanus Shot is being lost here-  You want to be up to dat on your Tetanus shots so when you get cut we ask when was the last shot, if within 5 years NO shot needed, if within 6-10 years of the last tetanus shot, then get a shot.  IF no puncture wound then you should get a booster shot every 10 years but if you have a puncture wound after 10 years and not booster within 3 years you are going to have to have a whole series of tetanus toxoid shots. THAT is why you get boosters when you have a cut, not so much because they are worried about this cut causing the Tetanus infection.  Tetanus is an incurable infectiont that is a very painful death so the importance is to make sure you have Tetanus Boosters every ten years and make sure your Primary Care doc does it and keeps track of it for  you but you need to know as well when your last tetanus shot was.  IF in doubt get the shot!


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## wendell (Dec 27, 2009)

So, you are advocating people get shots they don't need to make the MD and Big Pharma more money?


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## sandie (Dec 27, 2009)

wendell   NO just the opposite, if you know when your last tetanus shot was given you could save yourself a shot when you go for sutures and you answer NO to the question   when was your last tetanus shot?  The disease is an awful death so why not get  your booster every 10 years and you will be fine but many a person gets tetanus shots they did not need because they did not know when their Tetanus shot was, so not advocating too many, advocating not having one if you do not need one.


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## fire_man (Dec 27, 2009)

philaphire said:
			
		

> Well, it was a matter of time before a splinter off my wedge got the best of me.  Today I was splitting a small round, about 4 or so inches in diameter.  Since it was so small, and yes I know 4 inches is the break point for most, I was using a small sledge and wedge holding the round with my left hand.  I hit the wedge and immediately feel a sharp pain in my left forearm.  Blood is pouring out of my arm so I quick call to my wife for a towel.  Upon cleaning the area I see two wounds one smaller and one larger.  My hunch is that a splinter off my wedge shot through my arm like a bullet.   Headed to the ER, bleeding of course stopped.  Triage nurse was only concerned about my last tetanus booster, which I have to call my docs office Monday but I'm pretty sure it was last year.  Not sure how I could have prevented it other than just in the future not having any limb too close to the wedge.  I'll spare you pics, but my forearm looks like it was bitten by a large snake/small dog/vampire.



Yup, I'm the guy that got it in the leg this past Summer, so I feel your pain. I was wailing on my wedge full force and a large metal splinter hit an artery. It spurt like a geyser but I got it under control with no ER -but it sure scared me. The best way I could have prevented it was not to use an old wedge that had pieces of splintered metal hanging off, or at least grind it down. Glad you are OK.  :lol:


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## jfournier (Dec 28, 2009)

Does grinding the burrs really help with the sledge/wedge?  From what I remember of my materials class, when you're hitting steel/iron on steel/iron, you're cold working the metal, meaning you're pushing metal crystal grains up against one another, which makes the metal much harder but also much more brittle.  The only way to relieve the cold working is to anneal the metal, which is to heat the metal to its recrystallization temperature, and let the strain get relieved. I don't think grinding is really a safe alternative to annealing. 

I'm not sure if it works well, but I like to hit the wedge and sledge with a torch til it glows red; I think that at least helps relieve the cold working effect...

I could be completely wrong, but I'm just glad I use a maul, and a splitter when the going gets tough...


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## Backwoods Savage (Dec 28, 2009)

I can add to the above by stating that we bought our hydraulic splitter about 20 years ago and up to that time most of our wood was split with axe or sledge and wedge. Especially when I was a young lad, we did a lot of sledge and wedge splitting. In addition to that, it seemed all of our neighbors did the same and some of them did it in their basement where the furnace was. I well remember sitting in basements with neighbors and there almost always was someone splitting wood while we chatted. 

In all these years I do not recall ever seeing or hearing of someone getting hurt from flying metal off the wedge. I have seen some wedges in pretty bad shape though. As for us, we always just kept any edges files or ground off and never had a problem with it.

That said, I won't use a sledge and wedge if others are close by. Better to be safe than sorry, but methinks it is not as great a risk as most seem to make it out to be.


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## Jags (Dec 28, 2009)

Just a side note:  If you grind like I do (aggressive), I wonder if that doesn't have some effect on the remaining steel?? More of a question then answer I guess.  I don't use wedges much any more, but if I have a chisel or something that start to mushroom, I get after it with the grinder - sometimes to glowing temps.  Maybe that has an annealing quality or action to some extent?


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## fire_man (Dec 28, 2009)

Backwoods Savage said:
			
		

> I can add to the above by stating that we bought our hydraulic splitter about 20 years ago and up to that time most of our wood was split with axe or sledge and wedge. Especially when I was a young lad, we did a lot of sledge and wedge splitting. In addition to that, it seemed all of our neighbors did the same and some of them did it in their basement where the furnace was. I well remember sitting in basements with neighbors and there almost always was someone splitting wood while we chatted.
> 
> In all these years I do not recall ever seeing or hearing of someone getting hurt from flying metal off the wedge. I have seen some wedges in pretty bad shape though. As for us, we always just kept any edges files or ground off and never had a problem with it.
> 
> That said, I won't use a sledge and wedge if others are close by. Better to be safe than sorry, but methinks it is not as great a risk as most seem to make it out to be.



I wonder if today's made-in-china steel has something to do with more frequent metal splinters. I have my father's old wedges from the 1950's and they are in better shape than some of my new ones and the older ones got plenty of use.


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## drizler (Dec 29, 2009)

In all these years I do not recall ever seeing or hearing of someone getting hurt from flying metal off the wedge. I have seen some wedges in pretty bad shape though. As for us, we always just kept any edges files or ground off and never had a problem with it.

That said, I won't use a sledge and wedge if others are close by. Better to be safe than sorry, but methinks it is not as great a risk as most seem to make it out to be.[/quote]

I wonder if today's made-in-china steel has something to do with more frequent metal splinters. I have my father's old wedges from the 1950's and they are in better shape than some of my new ones and the older ones got plenty of use.[/quote]

Yup, it is amazing how much better old steel held up than the recycled beer cans from China  today.   Most steel today unless it is special ordered is pure junk.    As for flying debris I always feared hardened steel a lot more.  That has a real potential to skewer you.    Gloves, long sleeves and some sort of eye protection just need to be there but it's a balancing act  between safety and suffocation.


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## jfournier (Dec 29, 2009)

Jags said:
			
		

> Just a side note:  If you grind like I do (aggressive), I wonder if that doesn't have some effect on the remaining steel?? More of a question then answer I guess.  I don't use wedges much any more, but if I have a chisel or something that start to mushroom, I get after it with the grinder - sometimes to glowing temps.  Maybe that has an annealing quality or action to some extent?



The more I think about it, the more it makes sense that grinding off the flaky bits helps get rid of the strain hardened grains in the steel.  Especially if it's glowing red hot, I believe that means the red hot part is hot enough to recrystallize and remove the strain.

I think what people have said regarding modern steel makes sense, too...The tendency for strain hardening depends on the different contents of the alloy (carbon, etc...) as well as how the tool was formed...If steel cools fast, it's much harder and will strain harden faster, compared to a slow cooling which creates a different crystal structure that is softer and takes longer to strain harden.

I'd say as long as you keep on top of maintaining the surface, either by grinding or just heating, that should make you a bit safer...


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## Jags (Dec 29, 2009)

I went out to the big shed last night for a bit of nostalgia.  Looked at a couple of the old retired wedges and realized that they were hand made by a blacksmith.  Even as recently as my youth, my little town had a REAL, true blacksmith.  All sorts of things that still float around town (300 people) were made by him.  I have lots of chisels and stuff that came from that shop.  Grade A steel I tell ya.


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