# Attaching angle iron to tile...



## Warm_in_NH (Jan 15, 2014)

Anyone know how best to attach (non mechanical) angle iron to tile and cement board?

I made two panels to as heat deflectors and left the edges raw with the intention of covering them with angle iron attached by setting it into a bed of thin set. I have since heard that this may not work due to corrosive properties in the thin set and or it won't bond to the metal.

Not entirely sure how accurate my info is, but I don't want to do it twice. Was thinking of just using a construction adhesive but I think the heat will cause it to fail prematurely? 

Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions appreciated.


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## Ehouse (Jan 15, 2014)

Try to find some tight fitting U or channel section stock rather than angle stock.


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## Fifelaker (Jan 16, 2014)

They make fire caulk for wires and conduit passing through walls. http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?BrandID=9&SubcatID=2 I would think this would bond.


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## ironpony (Jan 16, 2014)

Ehouse said:


> Try to find some tight fitting U or channel section stock rather than angle stock.


 

Lowes has a section with the U channel, good idea.


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## ChipTam (Jan 17, 2014)

Warm_in_NH said:


> Anyone know how best to attach (non mechanical) angle iron to tile and cement board?
> 
> I made two panels to as heat deflectors and left the edges raw with the intention of covering them with angle iron attached by setting it into a bed of thin set. I have since heard that this may not work due to corrosive properties in the thin set and or it won't bond to the metal.
> 
> ...


I did the same thing for a hearth pad....two layers of cement board followed by a layer of tile.  I thought it would be easy to come up with a solution for the edges.  That was five years ago and I still have no good solution.  I first tried aluminum strips used to cover carpet edges.  Folks walking close to the pad would catch a shoe on the edge and pull it off.  Bought some tile edging but then worried about the mess applying it and whether that would be a durable solution.  Thin wood edging was also considered.  I'm not clear whether you have vertical or horizontal panel.  If the former, you may have more luck since it will be less subject to wear and tear.  I may see if those u-shaped edges mentioned in an earlier post may work for me.  They would need to be around 1 1/4" high but, if so, that could solve my problem.  ChipTam


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## Warm_in_NH (Jan 17, 2014)

I broke down and bought a hearth pad for under the stove, slate, metal edges, due to timing I decided a pre fab product was the way to go, glad I did. The heat shield was an afterthought as, even though I exceeded the minimal distances, the wall was too warm for my peace of mind. Thus the tiled heat shields. The angle iron is going to run up two sides and across the top.


Leaning towards the high temp caulk, even with the "U" channel I would need to secure it to the sides some how. However, I'm a contractor and it is my house so no one really expects me to ever fully finish the project.  Put all new lighting in the kitchen last winter, still haven't painted the sheet rock patches or put the face plates back on the electrical boxes.


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## Fifelaker (Jan 17, 2014)

I know that fire caulk is a bear to remove.


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## tinhorn (Jan 25, 2014)

Loctite PL 8X. It's in the caulking aisle at Lowes.  I bonded a bunch of Azek to ceramic tile last summer (a shower project) and not a single seam has come loose.  I DID lightly sand the tile to remove the gloss, then wiped the tile and the Azek with rubbing alcohol before applying the Loctite.


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## Retired Guy (Jan 30, 2014)

I milled up some 5/4 X 5/4 oak strips, stained them and attached them to the floor butting the pad.


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## richg (Feb 7, 2014)

How about 45-degree tile edge trim? You should be able to find it in the exact length and pattern of the tile you already used....the grout lines will match up perfectly. If the horizontal overhang protrudes into the air gap at the top, you can always run each piece through a tile saw to trim it to precise width.


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