# Any downside to the bore cut?



## SolarAndWood (Sep 17, 2013)

My buddy was showing off his new skills this weekend.  It was pretty nice to put the tops of all the trees in one spot in the woods.  However, I can't convince myself to stick the end of my saw in a tree.  Is this justified self preservation or time to stop being a sallie and get used to it?


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## Flamestead (Sep 17, 2013)

Not the answer to every situation, but very useful - I'm very glad to have learned it.


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## jackatc1 (Sep 17, 2013)

Big plus no barber chairs.


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## Craby (Sep 18, 2013)

Isn't kick back the main concern? If so, how do you control that risk? Really solid wrist & grip? Never tried it so I'm also interested.


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## Jags (Sep 18, 2013)

Getting use to starting the bore cut is the part that first got me a little worked up.  There is an art to it.  But YES, a bore cut does have its uses.  I would highly suggest watching your buddy or even u tubes on it and study the first 3 seconds very, very hard.


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## Ash_403 (Sep 18, 2013)

Craby said:


> Isn't kick back the main concern? If so, how do you control that risk? Really solid wrist & grip? Never tried it so I'm also interested.


It is concern at the first part of the bore cut.  The thing is to get a deep enough cut into the wood with the bottom radius and tip of the bar first, then rotate the entire bar tip into your bore cut.  Doing that correctly, there really is no chance of saw kickback, as the bar is captive in the bore cut.

As Jags stated, watch some good demonstrations first before attempting.

I tried a few on some standing stumps last year.  They really are quite easy to do (bore cuts).


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## peakbagger (Sep 18, 2013)

I have a tough time getting a bore cut started and I expect its related to probably overfilling my rakers.


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## MasterMech (Sep 18, 2013)

peakbagger said:


> I have a tough time getting a bore cut started and I expect its related to probably overfilling my rakers.


The trick is to avoid using the upper quad of the bar as long as you possibly can.


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## Havendalefarm (Sep 18, 2013)

If you are learning it, use the small saw on a smaller tree, but big enough for the bore cut.. You don't want to make a dangerous mistake with a saw like the husky in your signature. Use that style cut often as we are always doing stand improvement cuts among valuable cherry and hard maple.


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## SolarAndWood (Sep 19, 2013)

Thanks for all the input...that initial roll move from the wedge around to the bore seems to be where all the action is both from where it can go wrong and setting up the cut behind the wedge.  It is nice to casually stroll away from the tree with your saw while the tree is still standing.

I'll give it a go with my little saw until I get used to it.  We are thinning out a stand of mostly 10 - 16" live healthy reasonably straight trees.


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## jackatc1 (Sep 19, 2013)

It's the leaners, and the unbalanced trees, where the bore
cut really helps out.


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## Backwoods Savage (Sep 19, 2013)

Bore cuts are something I never tell folks to use. Not because there is not a good place for them but it is something that should not be taken lightly. Best learn with someone who is already skilled at this. Personally, I rarely do it but will if it is required.


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## bmblank (Sep 20, 2013)

I've never heard of a bore cut for felling trees. How in the world is that done?
I can also say in my 30 years, most of them close to getting and processing wood, I've never seen a "barber chair". I wonder if that is a regional thing, where in some areas the trees are stringier or something.


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## Backwoods Savage (Sep 21, 2013)

Perhaps the worst type of tree for barber chairing would be ash. It split really easy. One can usually tell and there are times when the bore cut can really work nice to prevent this. Maybe I'll see if I can come up with some drawings on the cuts and if so, I'll try to post them maybe tomorrow.


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## SolarAndWood (Sep 22, 2013)

bmblank said:


> I've never heard of a bore cut for felling trees. How in the world is that done?



Relatively shallow hinge to what I've typically seen, bore cut a short distance behind the hinge all the way through and then leave a small amount of wood on the back side of the tree they call the trigger.  The tree is essentially standing on a tripod of the hinge and the trigger.  Pop in as many wedges into the slot made by the bore cut as appropriate to fine tune the drop.  Then cut the trigger.  You and your saw are 20' away before the tree starts coming down.  

I like everything about it other than sticking the end of my saw into a tree.


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## JustWood (Sep 22, 2013)

One way to limit the amount of bore cutting when felling is to use the butt swell on the stump to your advantage. Cut your notch low, very low, and on the back side bore through the butt swell and then up to your notch. The butt swells are often no more than 6" thick.
As already mentioned , raker depth plays a huge role in kickback on a bore cut. +1


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## SolarAndWood (Sep 22, 2013)

Did a bunch of bore cuts while bucking a couple cord with a 28" bar on the 95 today.  Given the advantages of the control with this felling technique, I'm starting to think there is little downside once you get used to putting the end of your bar into a tree.  Just goes against everything I've ever been taught about cutting firewood.


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