# The Ultimate Chain Saw Suite



## Ashful (Jun 21, 2012)

So, I have a decent 50cc saw with a 20" bar, and an older 41cc saw with a 16" bar.  The 41cc saw is damn heavy, but that's the way they made them in 1973.  It rev's slow, and can be difficult to restart when hot, but has impressive torque.  The body is only a few ounces lighter than my 50cc saw, but the shorter bar makes it less tiring to use.

While dreaming of something much ligher and newer on the small end of the scale, and something much bigger for those occasional jobs where my 50cc saw comes up a bit short, I got to thinking... what is the "ultimate chain saw suite" for the homeowner / landowner doing their own felling and managing their own wood supply?  I think it would require at least three saws.

Here's a start.  Tear it apart, guys!  I went with Husqvarna, because I've been looking at them recently.  Never took time to learn the Stihl lineup / they appear to be more expensive than my needs dictate.

Small / light saw: 
Husq. 338 XP T ($510):  39cc, 7.5 lb., 14" bar
Husq. T435 ($310):  35.2cc, 7.7 lb., 12" bar (lower cost alternative)

Medium saw:
Husq. 346 XP ($510):  50.1cc, 11 lb., 18" bar

Big saw:
Husq. 576 XP ($880):  73.5cc, 14.5 lb., 24" bar (plus a 28" bar for occassional jobs)

I don't see most home cutters needing anything bigger than a 576 XP, but there's always exceptions to the rule.  If I need to fell something a 70cc saw can't handle, I'm calling a pro.


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## MasterMech (Jun 21, 2012)

Obligatory Stihl post.

If we gotta do it with 3 saws -

MS180 (I like the back handle) $200
Maybe a MS192 C-E if money isn't a concern. $360

MS261 16" - $560

MS441 C-M 25" - $910

Went Autotune cause it's a $30 upgrade and eliminates the homeowner having to know how to tune his saw.

Total? $1670 in saws

Really I think you could get it done with two saws, a MS211 ($280) and the MS441 and call it good. The 70cc pro saws are just so good power to weight wise that it makes it hard to justify something in the 50-60cc class.

You'd be done for $1190 and easily handle anything we cut up for firewood.


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## Clyde S. Dale (Jun 21, 2012)

The equivalent Stihl line up looks like this (don't have cc, weight or price handy):

Small / light saw: 
MS201T
MS192T

Medium saw:
MS261

Big saw:
440/441 or 460

I'd love to have that line up in my garage to tackle anything - Stihl or Husky does not matter to me.  I run a Stihl MS261 which covers about 95% of everything I run into.  If I need a big saw, my BIL has an MS460, or I can rent an MS660 at my local dealer for $30 a day. Looking at the signatures around here, a lot of folks have a similar line up or variation of it with older models.  Maybe with time and $ I'll be one of those!


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## Thistle (Jun 21, 2012)

I'm happy with my 3 saw lineup so far. 28cc Echo,62cc Poulan Super 380,88cc Husky 288XPW.

The Poulan does 80% of the cutting,wee Echo pruning/some limbing & when I climb a little,Husky for the big monsters & milling lumber,slabs/blocks for woodturning etc.+ anything too big for the others.

But wouldnt mind adding a 2100XP if a decent one at the right price comes along some day.If the Echo ever dies (31 yrs old now,was HS grad/Xmas present) it'll be replaced with a current Husky or Echo model of similar capacity.


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## blades (Jun 21, 2012)

small saws  jonsered 45cc, Dolmar 112
Med saws  Dolmar 116SI, 6400
next up 2 7900 Dolmars
Still looking for one up in the 90cc+ class


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## Jags (Jun 21, 2012)

MS361 w/18" bar
MS460 for everything else.

I personally have never thought to myself "man, I wish I had a smaller saw".  Just my pref.


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## KarlP (Jun 21, 2012)

I vote for three of three brands.

Husqvarna 346XP NE
Husqvarna 372xp
Husqvarna 390xp

Silky PocketBoy
Silky Sugoi
Silky Hayate

Stihl MS200T
Stihl MS361
Stihl MS880

I think those 9 should just about cover the needs of the average homeowner on ArboristSite.


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## HittinSteel (Jun 21, 2012)

Having owned a ton of saws, I could be happy with the 338XPT and ported 372.


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## DexterDay (Jun 21, 2012)

Jags said:


> MS361 w/18" bar
> MS460 for everything else.
> 
> I personally have never thought to myself "man, I wish I had a smaller saw".  Just my pref.



I agree with above statement. But will add a top handle.

Stihl 192T
Stihl 036
Stihl 460


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## Thistle (Jun 21, 2012)

Jags said:


> MS361 w/18" bar
> MS460 for everything else.
> 
> I personally have never thought to myself "man, I wish I had a smaller saw". Just my pref.


 
I dont recall hearing anyone say "Sure wish I I hadnt bought one that big"  either.

Just like when using a power cutter/demo saw - the saw FEELS heavier the longer you're holding it.Bigger more powerful saw will get the job done much quicker,quicker you get done,the sooner you can set it down & take a break or do something else.


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## Ashful (Jun 21, 2012)

Thistle said:


> Bigger more powerful saw will get the job done much quicker,quicker you get done,the sooner you can set it down & take a break or do something else.


 
Sure, when bucking logs... but you must not spend as much of your time crawling around in the thicket of a downed tree as I sometimes do.  It can take me longer to cut out the small stuff that goes on the brush pile than it does to buck up the useable firewood, and I hate using a big heavy saw for doing that work.


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## Thistle (Jun 21, 2012)

Joful said:


> Sure, when bucking logs... but you must not spend as much of your time crawling around in the thicket of a downed tree as I sometimes do. It can take me longer to cut out the small stuff that goes on the brush pile than it does to buck up the useable firewood, and I hate using a big heavy saw for doing that work.


 
I probably do.I'm always cleaning up deadfall/storm damage and/or pruning smaller limbs.That's why I have the wee Echo for trimming the small diameter stuff to 3-9ft lengths,its then hauled in & cut to length with older Delta 10" miter saw.Much faster than any chainsaw because of its 40 T carbide tipped 1/8" kerf blade.


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## Ashful (Jun 21, 2012)

Ahh... thought you were agreeing with Jags' distaste for small saws.

I think I'll always use a 40 - 50 cc saw for most day to day work, but I do often wish I had one of those smaller 7 lb. saws for limbing or cutting up small stuff.  My lightest is over 11 lb. with a dry tank and no bar mounted.


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## Bigg_Redd (Jun 22, 2012)

Clyde S. Dale said:


> The equivalent Stihl line up looks like this (don't have cc, weight or price handy):
> 
> Small / light saw:
> MS201T
> ...


 
This


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## SIERRADMAX (Jun 22, 2012)

I appreciate my old poulan 2300CVA. I wouldn't trade that saw for anything. I like it so much, I bought another.


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## blades (Jun 22, 2012)

wierd stuff and odd pieces that I know are just going to be splitter trashed go through my 17" bandsaw.  15 cords split, 1- 6ft pickup box of trash


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## Jags (Jun 22, 2012)

Joful said:


> Ahh... thought you were agreeing with Jags' distaste for small saws.


 
I don't have a distaste for them, I simply don't use them.  If I drop a tree with the 25" on the 361 the tree gets limbed with that combo too.  A 25" bar on the 361 for limbs is outrageously fast and easy.  Less feet movement, less bending. Just my preferred method.  When bucking, I will use the shortest bar that I can get away with for single cuts (not two sided cutting).


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## lukem (Jun 22, 2012)

Making up numbers here, but personally, I'd rather hold a 12lb saw for 1 hour than an 8lb saw for 2 hours....and I'm not a big guy either (6'2 and 180).  I agree with Jags, long bar = less bending when limbing for what I consider a negligible weight gain.  If I was in a bucket I'd be more in favor of a top handle, but for ground work I don't see the appeal.  I tend to work a tree from the top down...limbing and bucking at the same time...I wouldn't want to pick up and put down saws all day.  MY opinion.


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## HittinSteel (Jun 22, 2012)

lukem said:


> Making up numbers here, but personally, I'd rather hold a 12lb saw for 1 hour than an 8lb saw for 2 hours....and I'm not a big guy either (6'2 and 180). I agree with Jags, long bar = less bending when limbing for what I consider a negligible weight gain. If I was in a bucket I'd be more in favor of a top handle, but for ground work I don't see the appeal. I tend to work a tree from the top down...limbing and bucking at the same time...I wouldn't want to pick up and put down saws all day. MY opinion.


 
The appeal for me for the top handle is being able to hold it in my right hand while moving brush/limbs with my left....... there is NO picking up or putting down of the saw, which really saves the back. Also a good running muffler modded top handle will cut limbs just as fast as a much bigger saw. I never saw the appeal until I started using one.....now I will never be without one.


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## lukem (Jun 22, 2012)

HittinSteel said:


> The appeal for me for the top handle is being able to hold it in my right hand while moving brush/limbs with my left....... there is NO picking up or putting down of the saw, which really saves the back. Also a good running muffler modded top handle will cut limbs just as fast as a much bigger saw. I never saw the appeal until I started using one.....now I will never be without one.


 
I can see your point.  For whatever reason I don't deal with a lot of brush (luckily) so I never thought about it like that.


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## smokinj (Jun 23, 2012)

Top handle saw and a great 60-80cc saw just depends on the size of threes. If you never want to be out gunned top handle and 70-80cc saw and your good for anything that could ever come up.

2 saw plan and 3 guys moving it is the fastest set-up without heavy equiment there is!


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## ScotO (Jun 23, 2012)

When you are climbing in a tree, you absolutely NEED a tophandle. Granted my top handles are old Stihl 015's, I have two of them and I don't go on a job without them. Both are converted to Picco chain. They make limbing on the grounds easier a lot of the time, too.


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## StihlHead (Jun 23, 2012)

My sweet... all Stihl. I added a 211 to the lineup, they are great little saws. Not much that I cannot cut with these. If I have to reach for the 066, its probably too big a job.




Top two: MS361, center: 044, bottom two: 026


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## StihlHead (Jun 23, 2012)

Oh yah, the 3 saw plan in Stihl: a 211, a 260 or 361, and a 440, 441, or 460.

In the Husky line, I would run with a 346XP 2nd ed. w/o the stupid brake gadget, the new 562xp, and a 372xpw 2nd ed. with the non-smogged larger engine.


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## TreePointer (Jun 23, 2012)

I've been mixing brands (gasp!).

~50cc NE346XP (.325, .050, 16" NK bar) is my go to saw for most things. Light weight, good balance, great throttle response for zipping through limbs and smaller bucking.

~60cc = Stihl 361 (3/8, .050, 20") when I need a little more grunt for bucking and stumping. Weighs less than a Stihl 290, yet is a much better performer in every aspect.

~80cc = Makita 7901 (3/8, .050, 24" & 32" bars) for monster logs and rounds

Waiting to pull the trigger on a new Stihl 661 (whenever it appears).

If you made me get only two saws, it would probably be a 50/70cc combo from Stihl 261/441 or Husqvarna 346XP/372XP(W)


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## StihlHead (Jun 25, 2012)

~50cc NE346XP 
~60cc = Stihl 361 
~80cc = Makita 7901

Those three saws would be optimal. I used to run mixed brands of saws, but no longer (except my old MAC and an Olympyk). I flipped to all Stihl so I can swap bars, chains and parts. All Stihl saws start the same, same levers, same method. Most Huskies and Dolmars have different lever systems. Also Dolkitas are just too hard to find in the PNW. Put a 25 in. bar on that 361 though...


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## amateur cutter (Jun 26, 2012)

Ok, I'll bite finally. MS 200T 14", 026 pro 16" 3/8 chain, 036 pro 18" 3/8, 046 20" 3/8, 066 24" & 32" 3/8, 088 mag 36" .404 chain, cause it's cool, & 090 contra for the gtg's. I'm really working toward owing this collection someday. Then I'll start on the other brands. A C


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## MrWhoopee (Jun 27, 2012)

Just added another to my suite. While limbing a freshly felled lodgepole, my arms suggested that I might want to find something lighter than my 20lb., 60cc Husqvarna 61. After extensive online research I determined that there are no good limbing saws available new. Even the Huskies and Stihls get lots of complaints for hard starting and poorly designed features such as chain tensioners and chokes. I called my local saw shop to ask for recommendations. To my surprise, he had just put a new carb on a very low mileage Stihl 009L (40cc) with 12 in. bar., new chain and a full tank of gas! Very little wear, still has the original paint on the bar. Price, $175, about what I would have paid for a new saw with problems. Now Heidi can do the limbing while I do the bucking.


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