# Huskee 22 ton hydraulic oil questions



## beagler (Jul 10, 2009)

I picked up a new Huskee yesterday.  After reading the manual, I was still wondering the following
-what type of tool is used to check the hydraulic oil drip stick (large wrench??)
-how often do I change the hyd. oil and how do I change it?
-what type oil filter or size do I change it with?

Any input would be great.


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## smokinj (Jul 10, 2009)

should be able to get the oil filter at tsc. large wrench works for me, and havent had to change mine yet I just watch the color of the oil when it gets dark then it need change imo.


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## burntime (Jul 11, 2009)

I ran dino oil in the motor for 5 or 6 tanks, then went to mobile one.  THe hyro fluid is hyro trans fluid.  Mine will start at 0 degrees.  I replaced the filter with a fram after 3 years.  Oil still looks good.  I know its full because if I put it on uneven ground it leaks out the vent  :cheese:


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## LLigetfa (Jul 11, 2009)

smokinj said:
			
		

> I just watch the color of the oil when it gets dark then it need change imo.


My oil is as clear like water and the colour hasn't changed in years so I wouldn't put much stock in the colour theory.  It might be OK for engine oil that gets contaminated from combustion and heat, none of which hydraulic oil is subjected to.


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## smokinj (Jul 11, 2009)

LLigetfa said:
			
		

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mine less than a year old,so your saying the oil dosent get darker as it gets dirtier?


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## LLigetfa (Jul 11, 2009)

Any metal particulate that gets by the filter might affect the colour slightly but I'm just saying it won't turn black like engine oil.  It would take a lot of heat to discolour it too.

I don't think calendar time is a good measure of when to change it either.  Run hours or number of cord split would make more sense.  I wish all splitters (all OPE for that matter) had run hour meters.  Engine oil I will change every year but changing out the hydraulic oil every year would get expensive.


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## smokinj (Jul 11, 2009)

LLigetfa said:
			
		

> Any metal particulate that gets by the filter might affect the colour slightly but I'm just saying it won't turn black like engine oil.  It would take a lot of heat to discolour it too.
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> I don't think calendar time is a good measure of when to change it either.  Run hours or number of cord split would make more sense.  I wish all splitters (all OPE for that matter) had run hour meters.  Engine oil I will change every year but changing out the hydraulic oil every year would get expensive.



yep agreed but I do notice that the oil isnt as clear as it was when I bought it. So when is a good time to change it?(without a time meter)


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## LLigetfa (Jul 11, 2009)

smokinj said:
			
		

> yep agreed but I do notice that the oil isnt as clear as it was when I bought it. So when is a good time to change it?(without a time meter)


That's a good question and I wish I had a good answer.  Being as frugal as I am, I keep checking the colour and appearance.  I have yet to change the oil in mine but I'm thinking 50 cords.  That's subjective too since I split mostly Ash which is less work on the splitter.


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## smokinj (Jul 11, 2009)

LLigetfa said:
			
		

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50 cords is  about where I am at with mine the color I would have to say it looks like a deep flyer that is getting close to needing change, but wondering if a new filter may clean it up a bit?


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## LLigetfa (Jul 11, 2009)

50 cord in less than a year is probably considered commercial use.  I'm guessing it is a revenue source in which case I wouldn't cheap out.  Change both the oil and the filter.  Save the old oil, filter it, and mix it with some heavy chain oil to use it up.


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## smokinj (Jul 11, 2009)

LLigetfa said:
			
		

> 50 cord in less than a year is probably considered commercial use.  I'm guessing it is a revenue source in which case I wouldn't cheap out.  Change both the oil and the filter.  Save the old oil, filter it, and mix it with some heavy chain oil to use it up.



sound like good advice! What do you think of changing the "oil filter only" say around 25 cords?


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## LLigetfa (Jul 11, 2009)

That sounds about right.


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## smokinj (Jul 11, 2009)

LLigetfa said:
			
		

> That sounds about right.




I didnt this go around, but might be nice to clean it up a bit for the back half of the oil cycle.(at some point that filter got to get full)


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## burntime (Jul 11, 2009)

I changed my filter after about 3 years and it was like 5 bucks.  Not really even a consideration when you have a 1k machine.


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## JustWood (Jul 11, 2009)

I'm a maintenance freak when it comes to equipment.
I personally don't think hydro oil gets hot enough on a splitter to break down under normall home owner use. If it were me I would buy a welding mag or similar for $6 and put it on the bottom of the tank and change the filter at recomended intervals. IF the oil gets milky or dirty colored then change. But if color is ok save your money .
My biggest fear in hydro systems is metal contamination.


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## MNtrees (Jul 11, 2009)

I used magnet donut ( you can find it from vehicle's auto tranny pan from salavge yard) attach to bottom of oil filter, it will collect any metal shaving.


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## burntime (Jul 11, 2009)

If you tilt the splitter you hardly lose anything.  Magnet is a good idea...


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## LLigetfa (Jul 11, 2009)

burntime said:
			
		

> I changed my filter after about 3 years and it was like 5 bucks.  Not really even a consideration when you have a 1k machine.


Ja, $5 on a filter is a no brainer.  $50 for oil is what I have a problem parting with.  Spread over 50 cord, it's just a buck a cord so that's how I should look at it.

As for the $1K machine, the components that could be affected by bad oil is just a fraction of that cost.  If you wear out the pump, you don't have to throw the rest of the machine away.


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## burntime (Jul 12, 2009)

I agree, but you bought a machine for convienience.  If its down it does no good.  I agree the oil will go for years.  I was just saying for 5 bucks its the contaminants that do the pump in, a filter is quick, cheap, and easy....


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## Gooserider (Jul 12, 2009)

I don't have any definitive answers, but here are a few things I've picked up in different places...

1. Hydraulic fluid, like brake fluid, is hygroscopic, IOW, it will absorb moisture from the air.  It becomes somewhat corrosive after being contaminated w/ water - mostly the water attacking the metal that was supposed to be protected by the oil...  It is best to use a "dessicant" breather cap to help reduce this.

2. They make, for relatively short money, filter brackets that have indicators on them that show when the filter is getting clogged.  Replacing the filter as shown by that indicator is a best practice, doing it by time can result in either "wasting money" by changing the filter to soon, or circulating unfiltered oil through the machine if the filter clogs up and starts bypassing before you change it.

3. Intake side strainers are a BAD idea - they can lead to pump cavitation which is much more damaging than the risk of particles going through the pump so long as reasonable care is used when adding fluid or otherwise opening the system...  Note that intake strainers are also more likely to end up getting clogged (increasing the cavitation risk) as they seldom get serviced since they are at the bottom of the tank and are hard to get at w/o draining the system.

4. Hydraulic fluid, if not over heated, kept dry and properly filtered is VERY long lived, it seldom should need changing...

Gooserider


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## beagler (Jul 12, 2009)

Ok, it sounds like people are suggesting the following:
-dont worry about changing hyd. oil
-change filter frequently

My questions are:
-how often do you change the filter
-doesn't hyd. oil spill everywhere when you take the filter off?
-if you do change the hyd. oil - how do you to it?

Thanks


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## Gooserider (Jul 12, 2009)

beagler said:
			
		

> Ok, it sounds like people are suggesting the following:
> -dont worry about changing hyd. oil
> -change filter frequently
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Opinions vary on filter changes - I think the best approach is one of those indicator filter brackets I mentioned, but absent that I would probably go w/ once or twice a year depending on how much I used the machine - once for typical homeowner <10 cords / yr, 2x for the commercial guy that's doing 50+

You'll want a drain pan to change the filter, but shouldn't spill all that much - One side should be going into the tank return, at or above the fluid level, the other is the line to the valve, which won't have much in it...  In addition the hydraulic system is essentially sealed, so you are looking at a sort of "hamster bottle" setup where the fluid can't get out because the air can't get in, at least not in the 2 minutes it should take to change the filter...

If you do want to change the fluid, that will vary somewhat depending on your machine...  Some have drain plugs in the tank, others you will need to pull the suction hose that goes from the tank to the pump off...  This will drain the tank, but NOT the fluid in the piston and pump...  To get most of that, you will need to manually (possibly with the aid of a comealong or other mechanical assistance) cycle the piston back and forth while working the valve appropriately.  To get it ALL you will need to disconnect the hoses, etc...  (Unless you have a known metal contamination issue, I wouldn't bother with this last)  If you do that, remember to prime the hydraulic pump again like it was new (you did, right?) by pulling the engine over by hand (ignition off) with the valve in the appropriate position, until you see the piston move...

Gooserider


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## kevin j (Jul 12, 2009)

spilling: is the filter down low? tilt the machine up so the tank runs to one side, or put a shop vac on the tank breather port.
usually the filter is high enough to be above tank level. if so, goose covered it all.


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## beagler (Jul 12, 2009)

Gooserider said:
			
		

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I did not prime the pump.  When I bought the splitter, the guy at TSC started the engine and pulled the lever to show me that it worked.....Should I try to prime it or assume its OK since the piston works?

To prime (if I need to) keep the engine off, but pull the starer cord to simulate starting it.  Do this while holding the piston lever in the appropriate position to simulate the wedge moving?


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## LLigetfa (Jul 12, 2009)

Too late for priming if the engine ran and cylinder moved.


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## Gooserider (Jul 12, 2009)

As LL said, it is to late for priming at this point - the system is filled...  What SHOULD have been done, as with any hydraulic system being put into service, and what should be done any time the system is drained to the point where the pump is empty, is to pull the engine over without starting it, so that the pump can fill itself with oil.  In order for the pump to fill, you have to give the air in it someplace else to go, which you do by holding the valve in the right position to move the piston in the cylinder (usually the extend position, but it all depends on where the wedge is when you start)...

When the pump fills up, it will start compressing the air in the system, and you will get a bit of movement in the wedge, it is OK to start the engine after this.

Usually this will take 5-10 pulls - if you have a stiff engine, it may help to pull the plug in order to get rid of the compression loading, but that just makes it easier to turn over.

Once the engine is started, you should then cycle the wedge all the way up and down several times to purge the air from the system - if there is air in the system, the piston movement will be very jerky (keep body parts clear), as the air purges it will smooth out - when it runs up and down smoothly, stop the engine and check the hydraulic fluid level, you will probably be a couple quarts to a gallon low - this is the amount that lives in the pump, cylinder, and other plumbing.

Since the pump is normally lubricated by the hydraulic fluid, starting it up without priming is one of those mystery abuse situations, where you have probably done some level of damage to it, and shortened it's life, but how much is really an unknown...  However there is no real way of going back, so you will have to live with it, and note that the pump may still last a VERY long time...

Gooserider


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## iceman (Jul 12, 2009)

return it and get a new one ..... then prime it yourself just in case


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## beagler (Jul 13, 2009)

Thanks everyone.  I just reread my manual, and it states on page 8 (for those of  you who own Huskee 22's)
"After the hydraulic reservoir and the engine crankcase are filled with oil, start the engine.  The hydraulic pump should prime itself.  With the engine running, move the hydraulic valve lever toward the wedge........any erratic movement indicates air......more oil should then be added to  bring the fluid level up."

This is what the salesman did for me, so I feel much more comfortable now.


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## kgreer (Aug 21, 2009)

[quote author="Gooserider" date="1247450552"]As LL said, it is to late for priming at this point - the system is filled...  What SHOULD have been done, as with any hydraulic system being put into service, and what should be done any time the system is drained to the point where the pump is empty, is to pull the engine over without starting it, so that the pump can fill itself with oil.  In order for the pump to fill, you have to give the air in it someplace else to go, which you do by holding the valve in the right position to move the piston in the cylinder (usually the extend position, but it all depends on where the wedge is when you start)...

When the pump fills up, it will start compressing the air in the system, and you will get a bit of movement in the wedge, it is OK to start the engine after this.

Usually this will take 5-10 pulls - if you have a stiff engine, it may help to pull the plug in order to get rid of the compression loading, but that just makes it easier to turn over.

Once the engine is started, you should then cycle the wedge all the way up and down several times to purge the air from the system - if there is air in the system, the piston movement will be very jerky (keep body parts clear), as the air purges it will smooth out - when it runs up and down smoothly, stop the engine and check the hydraulic fluid level, you will probably be a couple quarts to a gallon low - this is the amount that lives in the pump, cylinder, and other plumbing.

Since the pump is normally lubricated by the hydraulic fluid, starting it up without priming is one of those mystery abuse situations, where you have probably done some level of damage to it, and shortened it's life, but how much is really an unknown...  However there is no real way of going back, so you will have to live with it, and note that the pump may still last a VERY long time...

Gooserider[/quote

One point to make is that most log splitter valves have an open center.  You do not need to hold the valve in the forward positon to give the air someplace to go.  It will simply go up the hose and out the other side of the valve.   I don't know of any log splitters that operate with a closed center valve configuration.


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## Gooserider (Aug 21, 2009)

Speecotech said:
			
		

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That is very true Speecotech, and in theory one could just leave the valve alone while doing the priming step - however you then have no good way to tell when you have really primed the pump.  By holding the valve, and watching for the wedge to move, you KNOW that the pump has pulled in enough fluid to start pressurizing the system and is thus ready to go...  Thus rather than saying "Pull the engine over "N" times, and hoping that it's enough, holding the valve down gives you a definite indicator.

Probably doesn't make a huge difference which way you do it on machines where the pump is mounted close to or below the fluid level in the tank, and have a short suction hose, but I suspect it might matter quite a bit on machines where the pump is mounted above the tank.

Gooserider


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## flewism (Aug 22, 2009)

Gooserider said:
			
		

> I don't have any definitive answers, but here are a few things I've picked up in different places...
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> 2. They make, for relatively short money, filter brackets that have indicators on them that show when the filter is getting clogged.  Replacing the filter as shown by that indicator is a best practice, doing it by time can result in either "wasting money" by changing the filter to soon, or circulating unfiltered oil through the machine if the filter clogs up and starts bypassing before you change it.
> 
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Where would I find one of those?  I know somewhat what you are talking about as I have air filter indicators on all of our vehicles. (5 total).  Me, mom, and a couple of teenage drivers plus a extra truck.  I have an Autozone and couple of NAPA auto parts  in town, or should I look online? 

I have a Huskee 22 ton and this was my fourth summer splitting with it, good machine.  I've never changed the hydraulic oil, but I've changed to filter twice so far.  If I remember correctly I thought that filter was kind of high like $10.95 at TSC.  Engine oil get changed every spring along with all the other small engines.  I believe I'm running 25 wt. hydraulic oil as that is what they filled it with when I bought it, and I've topped it off  when I change the filter.  When it is hard starting in winter I just point to kerosene torpedo heater at it for an hour go back inside for breakfast and coffee, and she will fire right up. I'd say she done at least 35 cords maybe just under 40.  I'm the only one heating with wood but ,I been supplying my parents and one sister with wood for their fireplaces for quite a while now.


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## Gooserider (Aug 22, 2009)

flewism said:
			
		

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Tougher to find than I thought...  Googling a bit, MP Filtri usa. seems to have them, Northern makes a filter head that appears to have a 1/8" port on it for an indicator, but no indicator itself, same for Burden's Surplus Sales...  Haven't found much on the indicators themself, but from the pictures it looks like a small pressure guage w/ red and green zones marked at the bypass opening point, or thereabouts.  Presumably it might not be that hard to add something to an existing filter head just by drilling and tapping either the head or the plumbing to it and installing a guage...

Let me know what you find out...

Gooserider


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## 'bert (Aug 22, 2009)

Here is a gauge from a Canadian company.

http://www.princessauto.com/hydraulics/components/gauges/8040041-0-30-psi-filter-gauge 

It goes from 0 -30 psi, but does not say at what pressure you need to change your filter. :-S 

I am about due for a new filter (1 yr and bit), maybe I will get the gauge and put it on with my current filter and then put a new filter on and see what the difference is..

does anyone know what the return pressure should be?


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## Gooserider (Aug 22, 2009)

Alberta Burner said:
			
		

> Here is a gauge from a Canadian company.
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> http://www.princessauto.com/hydraulics/components/gauges/8040041-0-30-psi-filter-gauge
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Well most of the filter heads that I was looking at, said their bypass pressure was around 25psi.  Since going into bypass means the filter is thoroughly clogged, and you shouldn't be running that high a pressure, my first guess would be that you should change the filter around 15-20 pounds...

Gooserider


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## kgreer (Aug 28, 2009)

Gooserider said:
			
		

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Gooseride,  I completely agree with what you are saying about the valve giving you an indicator.    All of our models do have a pump that is located at or below the level of fluid in the tank with a short suction hose.  With our models two or three pulls is sufficient to get some fluid in to the pump to lubricate it. As long as the fluid level in the tank has been filled with the proper amount.  Thanks for sharing your knowledge!


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## Gooserider (Aug 28, 2009)

Speecotech said:
			
		

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No problem at all, glad to help out.  I appreciate your stopping by every once in a while to help out our Speeco owning members with their questions.  

I'm happy w/ my HF unit, but it does seem like the reports I've heard on Speeco have been very positive.  Speeco via Tractor Supply was on my "short list" when I was shopping for my splitter.  I think one of the big decision factors for me was the way that HF uses the beam as the trailer tongue, and thus allows a very small footprint when storing the machine simply by tilting the beam to vertical mode.  I don't know if you have much ability to give customer feedback to your engineering / design people, but this is a feature that might be worth looking into - I see it as a big advantage for people with limited storage space, and there are not very many companies that offer it.

Gooserider


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## kgreer (Sep 1, 2009)

I see your point.   Out of curiousity, what kind of mechanism holds your beam down in the horizontal position for towing?  is there a lock pin on the reservoir tank?   Also, I was curious if you do any horizontal splitting or mostly vertical?


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## 'bert (Sep 4, 2009)

BTW I have the new filter now, but they were sold out of the 0 -30 psi gauges.  They are going to call when they come in.  When would be the most accurate number to determine how dirty the filter is:

a) when the pump is running - no cylinder movement
b) when the cylinder is being retracted

I put a 0 - 100 psi gauge (readings may be questionable at the low end of the scale) on just see what it said, These 2 conditions gave different numbers, so which one do we want to know?


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## LLigetfa (Sep 4, 2009)

When the valve is on open centre, the amount of oil pumped is the amount being returned through the filter.  When the cylinder is being retracted, there is more oil returning than there is pumped due to the displacement of the ram.  That explains the difference in readings.  At some point, the filter's bypass valve will open if the filter is dirty enough to restrict the flow too much.  That is what you want to avoid.


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## 'bert (Sep 5, 2009)

I understand why there are different readings (I know there is extra oil coming out of the cylinder while it is being retracted), the question is, should the filter be able to handle this extra amount of oil or does the filter bypass open naturally (regardless of filter condition) during this time?

I guess all the readings assume that the filter & pump rate were matched properly at the start - hmmmm???


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## Gooserider (Sep 6, 2009)

Speecotech said:
			
		

> I see your point.   Out of curiousity, what kind of mechanism holds your beam down in the horizontal position for towing?  is there a lock pin on the reservoir tank?   Also, I was curious if you do any horizontal splitting or mostly vertical?



Sorry for the delay in answering, I was having trouble getting my browser to work after doing some upgrading on my system...

I have a lock pin on the hydraulic tank which is fairly tall and narrow.  On the top back end of the tank is the pivot bolt that connects the beam to the tank.  Below that is a set of holes for a lock pin to hold the beam in vertical mode - I'm not sure how much this is really needed, but I use the pin as it seems to make the unit more stable when you have a round that slips off the platform and you find the whole machine lifting up as the wedge tries to push the round into the ground...  If I pull this pin and lower the beam, there is a second set of lock pin holes to hold the beam down in horizontal position at the front end of the tank.  Also on the front end is a prop leg that has a bolt that it pivots on, and a lock pin to hold it in either a down position to support the front of the splitter in either mode, or horizontal for towing.  (If storing I would take the prop leg off to get the absolute smallest footprint, the splitter will stay in place fine w/o the leg if it isn't being used)

The horizontal shaft engine and pump sit on one side of the tank.  I don't know if it would be much of an issue for towing, but the unit is slightly off-center - I would guess the center of the beam is about 6" to one side of the midpoint between the wheels.  I haven't had reason to try towing my unit yet, I just push it around the yard by hand, but if I were, I might be inclined to try putting some bushings or equivalent at the pivot bolt as it seems like there is a lot of slop at that point.  HF does warn you not to tow at more than 40mph, and there are "Not for Highway Use" stickers on the machine for whatever that is worth...

I do all my splitting in vertical mode thus far.  I have used a horizontal Super-split type splitter, and I like being able to sit down a lot more...  The only time I split standing is if I have a round so big that I can't move it around while sitting, in which case I still use vertical mode, but stand while I bust the round up into chunks that are small enough to handle when I sit back down...

Gooserider


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## Gooserider (Sep 7, 2009)

Alberta Burner said:
			
		

> I understand why there are different readings (I know there is extra oil coming out of the cylinder while it is being retracted), the question is, should the filter be able to handle this extra amount of oil or does the filter bypass open naturally (regardless of filter condition) during this time?
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> I guess all the readings assume that the filter & pump rate were matched properly at the start - hmmmm???



My guess is that the major concern number is with the valve in neutral - despite our best efforts, that is probably where the machine spends most of it's time...  

As to whether it is naturally going to go into bypass when moving the cylinder, my guess is that it might, especially when retracting the cylinder on a higher volume pump.  My reasoning is that in theory the pump on my machine is putting out a constant 16gpm in high volume range.  The filter unit I have is rated to handle 20gpm, which is typical for most with 3/4" NPT connections from what I've seen.  Thus in Neutral, you should have no problem.  However there is an imbalance when pumping into the cylinder, as one side has a larger volume than the other because of the volume occupied by the piston rod.  If you are moving down to split, you will be pumping into the larger empty volume of the top of the cylinder, while pushing the fluid out of the bottom side, which has a lower volume because of the rod displacement - again no problem...

Going the other way, however, there might be an issue...  remember the top of the 5" cylinder has an area of 19.6" so it contains 19.6 cubic inches of fluid for every inch of travel.  However the bottom has less volume of fluid because it is partly filled by the rod - assuming a 2" diameter rod, I get 16.4" - 19.6" - 3.14" for the area of the rod, or about 20% less...  This is where my math gets a bit shaky, but it means that the piston will move further for each cubic inch of fluid pumped into the lower half of the cylinder, and push a correspondingly larger amount of fluid out the top half, which has to push through the return line and filter...  I could easily see this exceeding the bypass pressure, especially as the filter starts to get closer to the change point.  Bottom line, I think you will have a hard time not bypassing on the retract stroke, and would mostly worry about the watching the pressure when in neutral.

Gooserider


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## 'bert (Sep 7, 2009)

I agree, I have a 10.6 gpm pump on my splitter and a 5 gal oil tank,  therefore all the oil should get cycled through the filter twice per minute.  So this is where I will be looking at the gauge.  I will revive this as soon as the gauge comes in.

Goose, YOU had problems with your browser not working???  After all that windows bashing you have slipped in here and there. I thought Linux was the best thing ever ;-) (just bugging you)

I am surprised you bothered to fix it, this internet thing is just a fad, I don't know if it will even catch on.


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## Gooserider (Sep 7, 2009)

Alberta Burner said:
			
		

> I agree, I have a 10.6 gpm pump on my splitter and a 5 gal oil tank,  therefore all the oil should get cycled through the filter twice per minute.  So this is where I will be looking at the gauge.  I will revive this as soon as the gauge comes in.
> 
> Goose, YOU had problems with your browser not working???  After all that windows bashing you have slipped in here and there. I thought Linux was the best thing ever ;-) (just bugging you)
> 
> I am surprised you bothered to fix it, this internet thing is just a fad, I don't know if it will even catch on.



I use Opera, on top of Linux, and when they went to the newest version they changed a dependency on one of the underlying libraries - it took a while to figure it out, especially as I'm also putting most of my attention on a couple of other projects, and hadn't made it as much of a priority.

Gooserider


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