# Carbide-tipped chainsaw blades available?  Cutting through tough hickory



## DBoon (Sep 16, 2009)

I am cutting all hickory right now - and the wood is really tough.  I am probably only bucking about 1/2 a cord before my chain is dull.  Some of the logs are a little more seasoned and drier than others, which dulls the blade faster.  Yeah, I know, this is a good problem to have - unlimited hickory to cut - but a half cord a chain is tough to take.  I am using a full chisel Oregon chain right now. 

Does somebody make a carbide-tipped chain or some other chain that is going to stay sharper longer before needing resharpening?  

I'm running a Dolmar P5100S.


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## smokinj (Sep 16, 2009)

carbide chains are big money and cut pretty slow try a couble of stihl rs chain and save your self a LOT of money.I have a carbide inject a chain from baileys its .35 cents a drive link this will slow down your cutting speed.(Iuse it on rail road ties treated lumber and hedge apple) 50.00 bucks for a 28 in loop of the real carbide is over 100.00


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## Corey (Sep 16, 2009)

Get a $2 file or a $3 pack of dremmel stones and touch up the chain every tank of gas or two.  I've used the same dremmel stone for the past couple years, touch up the chain after every couple tanks of gas when cutting hedge - or most any other wood for that matter.  I just love the cutting action of a razor sharp chain.  It only takes a couple minutes and I've lost count of how many times I've cleaned up the same chain on my saw - never had an actual 'grinding'.  Done properly it hardly removes any metal from the chain or material from the stone.  Think of it like using a sharpening steel on the butcher knife before carving the thanksgiving turkey.

If you are getting your chain ground for each sharpening, make sure who ever is doing it isn't turning the teeth blue by grinding too hard/fast.  This will temper the metal, make it softer and more easily dulled.  Of course it's a win/win for the sharpener guy...he gets done faster and your chain wears out faster so you come back more often.


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## Gooserider (Sep 16, 2009)

Agreed...  IMHO you should hand sharpen with a file after EVERY tank of gas, it makes a world of difference...

I will say that I was doing free hand, and found that I tended to file to deeply into the gullet, which would leave the tips of the cutters to long and pointy, thus fragile and quick to dull.  I have now gotten one of the Oregon flat guides that attaches along the length of the file and sits between the raker and the top of the cutter, and thus controls the depth at which the file cuts - leaves the chain really sharp in just 2-3 strokes per tooth...

Once you get used to cutting with a REALLY sharp chain, you won't want to grind any more, and will have trouble continuing to understand how it is possible to keep cutting with a semi-dull chain like you get after a tank of gas...

Gooserider


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## smokinj (Sep 16, 2009)

cozy heat said:
			
		

> Get a $2 file or a $3 pack of dremmel stones and touch up the chain every tank of gas or two. I've used the same dremmel stone for the past couple years, touch up the chain after every couple tanks of gas when cutting hedge - or most any other wood for that matter. I just love the cutting action of a razor sharp chain. It only takes a couple minutes and I've lost count of how many times I've cleaned up the same chain on my saw - never had an actual 'grinding'. Done properly it hardly removes any metal from the chain or material from the stone. Think of it like using a sharpening steel on the butcher knife before carving the thanksgiving turkey.
> 
> If you are getting your chain ground for each sharpening, make sure who ever is doing it isn't turning the teeth blue by grinding too hard/fast. This will temper the metal, make it softer and more easily dulled. Of course it's a win/win for the sharpener guy...he gets done faster and your chain wears out faster so you come back more often.





"Of course it's a win/win for the sharpener guy...he gets done faster and your chain wears out faster so you come back more often".[/quote]

just not true the grinder guy brings extra chain's in the field and grinds them with the comfort of home(beer time).If your ever in dirty wood (termite's or carpenter ants) your going to be "filling all day long".


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## DBoon (Sep 17, 2009)

> Get a $2 file or a $3 pack of dremmel stones and touch up the chain every tank of gas or two.



OK, I plead ignorance - where do I get the right file for my chain?  I know what a Dremel tool is - are the stones you are referring to the tips for a Dremel rotary tool?  Is there a particular stone/tip I should get?


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## DBoon (Sep 17, 2009)

> Once you get used to cutting with a REALLY sharp chain, you won’t want to grind any more, and will have trouble continuing to understand how it is possible to keep cutting with a semi-dull chain like you get after a tank of gas…



I was used to it already when my chains were brand new, and the re-sharpening was not bringing them back to original condition, so I think I will try to touch them up myself.  I saw your comment about the Oregon kit, so I'll try to find that for my chain.  

My chain edges are a little blue, so maybe this is not the best sharpening I am getting.  Do I need to give up on that chain and get a new one, or can I sharpen it correctly now and bring it back to like new (and sharp) condition?


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## wendell (Sep 17, 2009)

If there blue, I'd use it as a practice chain to practice your hand filing. You have to get in quite a ways to get past where your chain guy has ruined them (and I sure wouldn't use him again!)  For the cost of a Woodlad pro chain from Bailey's, I would start over with a new chain.


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## Gooserider (Sep 17, 2009)

DBoon said:
			
		

> > Get a $2 file or a $3 pack of dremmel stones and touch up the chain every tank of gas or two.
> 
> 
> 
> OK, I plead ignorance - where do I get the right file for my chain?  I know what a Dremel tool is - are the stones you are referring to the tips for a Dremel rotary tool?  Is there a particular stone/tip I should get?



You should be able to get files from many sources, though the price will vary a bit...  I got my last batch from Amick's. However doing mail-order really only makes sense if you are getting a bunch of files, and / or are ordering other things at the same time, otherwise the postage will eat up any savings.  (One of the nice things about Amicks is that they will throw several loops of chain and a bunch of files in a flat-rate USPS priority mail envelope and send the package to you for just the postage, which can be a really nice deal.)

If you just want one or two files, your local hardware store should be able to help...  In addition to the round file you need for the cutters, you will also need a flat "raker file", a raker guage to fit your chain, and handles for the files (I like the plastic Husky handles that are sort of "spring loaded" and hold the file really well.)  I now also reccomend the Oregon filing guide in the size to fit your chain.

Note that you need to get the appropriate file diameter for your chain - that should be on the packaging for the chain, or you can look it up on the various chain maker's websites.  You should also check the various other spec numbers, such as the cutter angles and so forth.

Hand filing takes a bit of practice, and I would suggest doing a search for some posts that Eric Johnson has made on techniques for some pointers that will get you started about as well as any text instruction can.

Gooserider


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## kenskip1 (Sep 17, 2009)

Have you thought about trying a Stihl chain? I think the RSC is the better one. I hope that you are not using Walnut for firewood. That wood makes beautiful gun stocks. Ken

Buy the way, I used to live in central NY. Rome Taberg area.


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## flyingcow (Sep 17, 2009)

wendell said:
			
		

> If there blue, I'd use it as a practice chain to practice your hand filing. You have to get in quite a ways to get past where your chain guy has ruined them (and I sure wouldn't use him again!)  For the cost of a Woodlad pro chain from Bailey's, I would start over with a new chain.


I'd second the starting new idea. I'm lucky as in i have a brother-in-law that does a nice job hand filing, quite frankly i don't think there's too many people that could a better job. I had him put a good edge on the chain, than cut 12 cord of rock maple and beech. Very clean wood, no dirt. I would touch up chain every 2 tanks of gas(mind you I have a small saw Husky 45cc). I have a vise that helps, but i would hit the chain with3 strokes each time and kept the edge on it pretty decent. Didn't need to have him touch it up again until i was done. Even with a new chain I will take it to him and have him sharpen it. My little saw, you notice the difference.


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## smokinj (Sep 17, 2009)

If you want to hump through hickory the stihl rs full chiel is 2nd to none. I have 6 loops of the woodand pro That I use in the dirty woods there pretty good chains but dont compare to the stihl chains


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## DBoon (Sep 18, 2009)

Thanks for all the advice - I'll go shopping for some new chains this weekend, and some sharpening equipment also. 



> I hope that you are not using Walnut for firewood. That wood makes beautiful gun stocks.


It's actually bitternut hickory, all wind-blown.  My father-in-law culled the nice straight trunk pieces that were still good and had them sawn into plank.  They are going to make nice kitchen and pantry cabinets for a very appreciative friend, from what I hear.


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## Corey (Sep 19, 2009)

To find the dremel stone, you'd just need to know what diameter round file your chain needs, then buy the corresponding diameter round stone.  Say you have 7/32" - then:

http://doitbest.com/Rotary+Tools-Dremel+Mfg+Co-model-455-doitbest-sku-328723.dib

They also make a guide attachment, but I've always just free-handed it

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-1453-Chain-Sharpening-Attachment/dp/B0000302YO

This page goes through the steps - seems pretty thorough, but looking at the guys chain I have to wonder what the he#$^ he was cutting in the first place?!?

http://www.how-to-home.com/how-to-s...ng-dremels-chain-saw-sharpening-kit-1453.html

Generally, for my 'touch up' I barely see 2-3 actual metal sparks come off the stone - it's a very gentle dressing and the tooth doesn't get hot at all.  If I've snagged a piece of barbed wire, rock, etc - the grinding may be more intense, but still never enough to turn the metal blue or generate much heat.



			
				smokinj" date=" said:
			
		

> cozy heat" date=" said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I'm not sure what exactly that means...bring extra chains and grinds with the comfort of home?  If the cutting tip is blue, it will dull faster regardless of if it's sharpened in the field or at home.   If you pay someone to sharpen your chain and it comes back with a blue tip - that will dull faster and you'll be back for a new sharpen sooner regardless of how many chains you have. I cut hedge with plenty of carpenter ants but have never taken extra chains - just my dremmel and a small 110V inverter to power it off the truck battery.  I can usually sharpen a chain faster than swapping it out.


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## smokinj (Sep 20, 2009)

cozy heat said:
			
		

> To find the dremel stone, you'd just need to know what diameter round file your chain needs, then buy the corresponding diameter round stone.  Say you have 7/32" - then:
> 
> http://doitbest.com/Rotary+Tools-Dremel+Mfg+Co-model-455-doitbest-sku-328723.dib
> 
> ...



the way I was ready it is the file is "win win" not for me.

" I can usually sharpen a chain faster than swapping it out" 

 not a chance I'll take that race all day long 460 28 in. bar can be change in about a min. For me to do a 28 in loop in the garage and done very well is 12 min if you think the dremel going to give you a perfect sharpen and its not "still quicker to change it", 
with a chain that you took your time on. I am producing high quility chain's.


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## LLigetfa (Sep 20, 2009)

cozy heat said:
			
		

> I can usually sharpen a chain faster than swapping it out.


Maybe if the spare chain is all tangled and you're not good at solving puzzles.

That chain in the Dremel how-to is disgusting.  The after pic looks terrible to.


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## Gooserider (Sep 20, 2009)

I agree, both the before and after pix are pretty bad, I might (reluctantly) take the "after" pic as a starting point for filing, but I'd never want to cut with it...  He is also sharpening is chain to two different settings as the guide is indexing on the cutter on one side, and the raker on the other.  I also see no discussion of the notion that grinding wheels wear, so there is a need for regular readjustments on them, which would be especially critical on a setup like the Dremel where you are trying to set a dimensioned curve with the stone...

I'm less impressed with the notion of the Dremel setup AFTER seeing that "How-To" than I was before - considering how little I thought of it before, that is pretty hard to accomplish...

Gooserider


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## DBoon (Sep 20, 2009)

Hi Guys, thanks for all the advice.  I chose not to buy another chain yet.  I did buy a round file for my blades, and I touched it up after each tank of gas.  This worked pretty well - I went through 2-1/2 to 3 cords of hickory over this weekend with one chain, so this is already an improvement.  And I was throwing big sawdust chunks from the saw every tank of gas.  I could definitely feel the difference.


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