# Installing Wood stove in currently existing wood burning fireplace



## kennny (Apr 25, 2014)

Hello.
I have been getting lots of good information from the forums here and would like your opinions on the project I am thinking of.

I am moving to a relatively newer house soon and the place has a wood burning fireplace(not been in use for years according to the seller).. from my research, it looks to be a Zero-Clearance one but not sure.
From outside, tip of the chimney, I can see terracotta lining stick out few inches with metal cap.
I am attaching the picture of the fireplace from the living room.

What I want to do is installing a wood burning stove(stand alone not insert) in front of the fireplace opening and use SS liner to vent through the chimney. I am thinking of Morso 1410 as a stove for it.

For this thought, do you see any possible hazard or compliance issue? or is it just simple stupid idea?
Please advise everyone. Any though will be appreciated.

If you have further questions to clarify things, please ask.

Ken


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## mellow (Apr 25, 2014)

If you see terracotta that is usually an indicator it is masonry.  Look into rear vent woodstoves, you will have to build your hearth out more to support a free stander.  What is the dims on the fireplace opening?


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## kennny (Apr 25, 2014)

Thanks for the reply. The opening measures roughly 48*24(W*H).
The depth of the hearth is 22'. From Morso website, 1410's depth is 14.5 in. and it does has rear-venting option.
Do I still need to keep the rear clearance even if the rear is not combustible?


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## mellow (Apr 25, 2014)

You will not be happy with having to feed that small stove every hour.  Can't find the rear vent specs on the website but you need to make sure it will be under the 24" height of the fireplace opening if you are rear venting into a tee in the fireplace.  Either that or lower your hearth height.


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## kennny (Apr 25, 2014)

Yes, I am expecting more splitting/cutting woods due to the smaller firebox.. which I don't really mind. I am more worried about the height. It looks like the european version of 1410 does come with different length of legs you can choose from but not in US market. I wonder if I could just buy the legs from UK or somewhere and replace it myself. This height issue and the depth of hearth is most concerning part for me.


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## Grisu (Apr 25, 2014)

What is the purpose of this stove? The Morso 1410 has a rather tiny firebox and will be more for ambiance than really throwing a lot of heat. You may get that room warm but probably not much more. 

For a rear-vent stove it would be good to know the exact height. Woodstock stoves have a rear clearance of 26" lintel height. This is about the lowest I know for medium to large sized stoves. 

I would get a sweep in to clean the chimney. Even when the fireplace has not been used in years it will be required in any case. Then you can ask him what kind of fireplace you have. Maybe an insert would be an option if you really want a heater.


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## mellow (Apr 25, 2014)

How many sq feet are you looking to heat?  You also might look into a side loader like the Woodstocks and Jotuls, both have rear vent models.


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## kennny (Apr 25, 2014)

The house is two story and does have gas furnace as well, the first floor is roughly 1000sqf. I don't expect the stove to work for entire house but I want it to work for the family room and kitchen next to it(roughly 500sqf). so the purpose of the stove is for both ambiance and saving utility bill.


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## RickBlaine (Apr 25, 2014)

Ken,

I am new here but wanted to say:

1) That is a very nice looking fireplace.
2) That is a very wiiiidddddeeee fireplace vs. the height.
3) You will have many more options if you just lowered your hearth a little bit.  For a small investment in lowering the hearth six inches, you can save hundreds of dollars and have dozens of stove choices available to you.  24 inches of height is very, very small.  There may be only a few stoves that will fit and they may not provide much heat.  I know you want "the look", but you may want to modify those very wide proportions by creating height space.

Are you handy?  A cold chisel and a few hours of labor can knock out some of that hearth height....just saying....

There are several threads here of members modifying their brick hearths to fit a wood burning stove inside.  Several before/after pics.


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## kennny (Apr 25, 2014)

/RickBlaine, point well taken and I may go that route(lowering the height). But for the heat output the stove I was looking rated at 1000sqf and afraid stoves larger than that may make you uncomfortable in the family room. I once read an article here saying its safer to run small stove at full blast than to run a smaller(controlled) fire in larger stove due to creosote build-up. Which I agree. Thanks for your kind compliment/advise though.


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## Grisu (Apr 25, 2014)

How much you will save on your utility bill will largely depend on how often you can feed that little stove. You will probably have to add wood every one to two hours to keep the heat coming. I would expect that to become tiring pretty quickly and overnight burns are out of the question. You may also run the risk of overfiring it because you would like to get more heat out of it. In total you have 2000 sqft to heat and unless your family room/kitchen are really badly connected to the rest of the house I would not worry too much about heating yourself out of the room. If you post a floorplan we could give you some tips on how to distribute the heat properly. 



kennny said:


> I once read an article here saying its safer to run small stove at full blast than to run a smaller(controlled) fire in larger stove due to creosote build-up.



If you are concerned of creosote make sure your wood is dry. That will go a long way to avoid chimney fires. And you can always run a smaller, hotter fire in a larger firebox but not vice versa. It's usually better to slightly oversize the stove than to buy a too small one and being disappointed. Are you set on a hearth-mounted stove or would you consider an insert? You could maybe make the opening a bit narrower with one or two columns of bricks so an insert would not look out of place in there.


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## kennny (Apr 25, 2014)

/Grisu, appreciate the advice. I think the floor plan of the house is pretty straight forward but there is a wall between family room and living room and stairs to upstair is located in the living room. The 2nd floor sits on top of the living/dining area only.
I tried to draw the floorplan for your reference.
Do you think 1000sqf rated stove is way too small for it?


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## bholler (Apr 26, 2014)

I would like to add that lowering a heart is no small job usually it can absolutely be done but it takes quite a bit of work an time.  You also need t be decent at laying brick to make it hold up and look good.   If you plan on it be prepared that under that first layer of brick is almost always a concrete slab that will need broken up and then repoured at the new height.


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## Grisu (Apr 26, 2014)

kennny said:


> /Grisu, appreciate the advice. I think the floor plan of the house is pretty straight forward but there is a wall between family room and living room and stairs to upstair is located in the living room. The 2nd floor sits on top of the living/dining area only.
> I tried to draw the floorplan for your reference.
> Do you think 1000sqf rated stove is way too small for it?



Don't go with the sqft rating when looking at stoves. There is no standard so the manufacturers can pretty much write whatever they want. Plus, it is usually a range from a well-insulated house in a temperate climate to a badly insulated home in a cold state. People often look only at the top of that range but don't consider their specific circumstances. 

If you want to make a real dent in your utility bill the Morso will probably take a looong time to get your money back. First, that firebox is so small you will need to feed it pretty much all the time. Leave it unattended for 2 maybe 3 hours and it will stop heating. That means if only 8 hours per day someone is there (and awake) to put more wood in, the other 16 hours the gas furnace will run. I also doubt that this small stove will even be able to heat the lower floor. Thus, you may be looking at only supplementing about 1/3 of your total heating needs but still spend somewhere ~$2500 for stove, liner, and install. Not sure if the numbers will really add up for you. A stove with a firebox ~2 cu ft can be run pretty much the entire time and will certainly make a difference in your gas bill. In addition, we have way more complaints here about users that cannot heat their home than people complaining about too much heat. 

Now, the good. Your floorplan does not look too bad. Without doorways the heat should be able to travel around the lower floor maybe assisted by some fans. For example, a small fan placed on the floor at the wall between the garage and the dining room and blowing cold air towards the kitchen should get the warm air around the corner. On the other hand, the upstairs may be tricky the way the stairwell is located. 

You have an entire summer to decide on a stove or insert; take your time and a good look at your fireplace to see what would fit. However, get your wood ready! No matter which stove you buy they all need seasoned wood with a moisture content of less than 20%. Softwoods and ash could potentially dry over just one summer. Making single rows, small splits and top covering will help.


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## begreen (Apr 27, 2014)

Welcome Kenny, what part of the state is this in? We have pretty wide range of heating needs depending on the locale. Based on the house description and openness of the floor plan I don't think you will overheat the place by going up to a larger stove, even if this is in the Seattle area. If you like the Morso line I would at least go up to the 2110. If works fine with a partial load of fuel.  If the hearth is lowered a little and extended if necessary to meet the stove front hearth requirement I think you will get a lot more pleasure out of the larger stove.

Question: How tall is it from the chimney floor to the top of the chimney?


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## kennny (Apr 29, 2014)

Grisu/begreen, thank you so much for your time/idea. Now you are making me considering bigger stoves. I am moving to Issaquah, WA next week. I was considering a small stove like Morso1410 because of milder winter here in WA (I moved from OH a year ago) and the look(it was my wife's favorite). Also thought it would require less/no additional work on hearth. If I have to work on lowering the heart anyway, I might as well making it large enough to accommodate larger stoves. Wish I could test smaller stoves first to see what happens before I start messing with the current structures. But all of your suggestions make sense to me. Thank alot


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## begreen (Apr 29, 2014)

To give you some frame of reference, we are in the same area and heat with a 3 cu ft stove in a 2000 sq ft old farmhouse. You control the amount of heat coming from the stove. In mild 40 deg weather you might just build a fire with the stove partially loaded, then let it burn down without reloading. But when the temps get in the 30s or lower you will be burning larger, full load fires I suspect.

Another option to consider would be installing a mid-sized insert. That would be a lot less work than rebuilding the hearth. There are reasonably priced units in the $1000-2000 range.

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/pacvisin.htm


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## Owen1508 (Apr 29, 2014)

Or this one....

http://www.lowes.com/pd_97363-850-2...arch=us stove insert&productId=3457288&rpp=32

Or This one
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1


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## kennny (Apr 29, 2014)

With considering all the additional works, I agree the logical choice here would be an insert... but still couldn't give up the images I was thinking when I bought the house. I need your help to forget about the stand alone stove. If I get an insert with good size, would that make significant difference on my gas bill compared to smaller stoves like 1410?
The ones with blower, does it require plugged in?


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## Grisu (Apr 29, 2014)

kennny said:


> With considering all the additional works, I agree the logical choice here would be an insert... but still couldn't give up the images I was thinking when I bought the house. I need your help to forget about the stand alone stove. If I get an insert with good size, would that make significant difference on my gas bill compared to smaller stoves like 1410?



How much heat you will get depends mostly on the size of the firebox since with a bigger firebox you can burn more wood. Your heating efficiency may be somewhat lower with an insert than with a stove as the fireplace is at an exterior wall and some heat may go out the back wall. That will easily be compensated by the much larger unit you should be able to fit in the fireplace in contrast to putting it on the hearth. The question is what kind of fireplace and chimney you have and the dimensions of it. Additional pictures would help. 



> The ones with blower, does it require plugged in?


 Yes.


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## mellow (Apr 29, 2014)

I heat 1200 sq feet with my insert,  others heat even larger amounts.  The fan will be needed.


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## Owen1508 (Apr 29, 2014)

Hey Kenny,
A lot of good points are being talked about.  Bottomline (my 2 cents) spend the time to look at every option and possiblity to determine what stove will suit you best.  Now's the  time to figure out all the options/costs/looks etc.  These guys are good they will help you cover all the angles and see it from every POV.  BTW welcome


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## begreen (Apr 29, 2014)

A blower on the insert is desirable, but doesn't need to run all the time, especially if the insert is on an interior wall. The other factor will be how much the insert projects out onto the hearth. Flush inserts almost always need the blower running, at least on low speed. An insert that projects say 6-9" out onto the hearth will heat without the blower. Maybe not as well as with the blower running, but enough to be satisfactory. This is an important consideration if the area gets frequent power outages.

Both ways (freestanding and insert) will heat the place. I just wanted to present you with an alternative option.


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## kennny (Apr 30, 2014)

I have done some homework and leaning toward installing an insert and found a used Country C160 insert selling locally. Any thought on that one? do you think it is still too small for the house? Grisu, I don't have exact measurement but the chimney looks to be about 10ft high. I will try to get you the more details later. Still busy with moving other household stuffs and wife gives me mean look when I stay around the fireplace too long.


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## begreen (Apr 30, 2014)

The Country Striker is a nice small insert. It certainly would work as an area heater. The firebox is a bit small so getting an overnight burn with softwood will be a bit of a challenge, but not impossible if you can get hold of some seasoned madrone or apple wood. It's twice the size of the Morso IIRC.  If it's in good condition, not abused and the price is right that could be a fine starter insert.


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## Woody Stover (Apr 30, 2014)

begreen said:


> Grisu, I don't have exact measurement but the chimney looks to be about 10ft high.


Is that from the top of the stove (this will be an approximation, I know) to the top of the clay chimney liner?


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## Woody Stover (May 1, 2014)

kennny said:


> If I get an insert with good size, would that make significant difference on my gas bill compared to smaller stoves like 1410?
> The ones with blower, does it require plugged in?


I'd think you would be able to heat the entire home with the right size insert. If the doorway between the kitchen and living room is to scale, moving the heat to the entire first level shouldn't be too hard. But I'm unclear about the stairs to the second level...is that stairway open to the living room, i.e. can you see someone walking up the stairs from the living room? It looks from the drawing that the stairs are _outside_ the wall of the house...
If you can spring for a new insert, I wouldn't mess around, I'd get enough stove to heat the home on its own, and get a style I liked. Then you don't have to upgrade later. Some blowers are quieter than others, that would be important to me. The Lopi blowers are quiet, the one on the Liberty is anyway...


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## Grisu (May 1, 2014)

kennny said:


> I have done some homework and leaning toward installing an insert and found a used Country C160 insert selling locally. Any thought on that one? do you think it is still too small for the house? Grisu, I don't have exact measurement but the chimney looks to be about 10ft high. I will try to get you the more details later. Still busy with moving other household stuffs and wife gives me mean look when I stay around the fireplace too long.



I am a bit hesitant to recommend an used insert to someone new. You really need to check it carefully that it has not been overfired. A lot will depend on the price. Plus, don't be disappointed when you have to start the fire from scratch again every morning. Unless it is a really good deal I would suggest waiting for a more appropriately sized unit about 2 cu ft. or buy a new one. However, it is certainly your money and home. 

10 ft chimney is awfully short. You may need to add some stovepipe to it to get sufficient draft. What is the diameter? Can you drop a liner down there? Any way you can sneak by your wife and post some pictures?


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## begreen (May 1, 2014)

Woody Stover said:


> Is that from the top of the stove (this will be an approximation, I know) to the top of the clay chimney liner?



That is going to be a critical measurement. Modern secondary burn stoves need enough draft to pull air through the secondary manifold. Most require at least 14 ft. This appears to be a 2 story home based on the side staircase. If so, does the chimney clear the second story roof?


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## kennny (May 1, 2014)

/begreen, That's concerning to hear. is that because modern secondary burn doesn't make the pipe(vent) hot enough to create draft? what if I do the insulation? I didn't have time to measure it but here is the picture from outside.


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## begreen (May 1, 2014)

Nice house and setting. Yep, that chimney will be a challenge, particularly in our mild climate. You might want to look for a PE Pacific or Super insert. They are a bit easier breathing in my experience. But it could be that a chimney extension will be needed to establish good draft. Insulation will be a necessity I think.


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## mellow (May 1, 2014)

Need good draft when you are pulling air in for the secondary/primary air,  you don't need as much draft for an old smoke dragon because you idle it, but then you are letting that wasted smoke energy turn into creosote.  Height creates draft, the higher the chimney the more draft it creates, the warmer it is even more draft is created, that is why we recommend insulated liners.

You don't see much smoke when you inhale a cigarette, need that draft for a clean reburn.


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## Kosmik (May 1, 2014)

kennny said:


> With considering all the additional works, I agree the logical choice here would be an insert... but still couldn't give up the images I was thinking when I bought the house. I need your help to forget about the stand alone stove.



Well, take a big cardboard box and place it infront of the fireplace.  There is your free standing.

As far as insert, Google it, hundreds of images to help you decide on less work.

I'd put an insert in before I'd go busting up that fireplace...Unless you hate it, but it looks nice to me.  With the money you save, get a backup generator.  Then you can still play video games when the power goes out.

Besides you'll spend plenty of time on other things like chopping, storing wood and watching it burn.

Also, is the horizontal distance from chimney top to nearest object level with it more than 10'? (the second floor?).


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## kennny (May 1, 2014)

/Kosmik, do you know what was the model you attached in your original reply? i got it in from my email and it looked pretty , but pricey.
anyone have experience with Avalon Rainier? has the biggest firebox among the ones I have considered so far.


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## begreen (May 1, 2014)

The Rainier is a classic woodstove and almost bullet-proof. However, it too is going to want more flue. 

Chimney height: 15' minimum; 33' maximum.


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## Grisu (May 1, 2014)

kennny said:


> /Kosmik, do you know what was the model you attached in your original reply? i got it in from my email and it looked pretty , but pricey.
> anyone have experience with Avalon Rainier? has the biggest firebox among the ones I have considered so far.



Anything particular that you find appealing about the Rainier? It has only 1.8 cu ft of firebox which may cut its burn times a bit short. 
If Kosmik does not get back to you, try posting his picture here (upload file under the comment box). I am sure someone will recognize the stove model. What kind of budget do you have in mind?


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## begreen (May 1, 2014)

Assuming the first floor is the area that's going to be heated, this is a relatively small space in a mild climate. The Rainier has heated many a home in this area. It would be fine here except for the flue requirement.


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## kennny (May 2, 2014)

begreen, if my chimney is too short for it, any way I can extend it? I saw some houses have stainless pipe extended out from their roof. Is it something hard/expensive to get? since I am thinking of installing the SS liner, I could connect it to the extension?
The picture Kosmik sent was this 
http://www.doctorflue.com/gallery/wood-insert-4.jpg
It most likely to be at price range out of my budget anyway though.


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## begreen (May 2, 2014)

Yes, it can be extended with additional masonry, or an anchor plate installed and then a stainless steel extension added, or a clay or aluminum flue extender added.

www.extendaflue.com

How many square feet are there in the first floor? If this the only area the stove will heat? Another options would be to put a hearth mounted catalytic stove in like a Woodstock Keystone. Being a cat stove, it does not have a secondary burn system and may work better with the shorter chimney. You could call Woodstock and see what they think. They have a 6 month return policy if it doesn't work well.


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## Woody Stover (May 2, 2014)

begreen said:


> Another options would be to put a hearth mounted catalytic stove in like a Woodstock Keystone. Being a cat stove, it does not have a secondary burn system and may work better with the shorter chimney. You could call Woodstock and see what they think.


Both the Fireview and Keystone say 14' in the manual. BIL has 13.5 and Dennis has 13 with no problems. Could OP just run the liner 3' up out of the chimney, no bracing, and call it a day? If there's no problem with downdrafting off the higher main roof, it could work. Kennny, where does the prevailing wind come from in relation to the roof?


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## begreen (May 2, 2014)

I believe the liner is supposed to terminate at the top of the chimney though I have seen setups where they switched to rigid liner at the top and extended it a couple feet more.


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## Woody Stover (May 2, 2014)

Yeah, I was assuming rigid but I don't think he's said weather it's a straight chimney. Looks like it's gotta be, though.


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## Grisu (May 2, 2014)

kennny said:


> The picture Kosmik sent was this
> http://www.doctorflue.com/gallery/wood-insert-4.jpg
> It most likely to be at price range out of my budget anyway though.



That is a Bodart and Gonay fireplace. I think from their Optifire line. Since it is an European brand you may be right about the cost. 

If you like modern-looking, flush inserts then the following may be of interest to you:

Pacific Energy Neo 1.6 or 2.5
Regency CI1250 or CI2600
Lopi Small Flush Wood Hybrid-Fyre or Declaration
Osburn Matrix
Morso 5660

Some of those are smaller inserts with burn times of about 5 to 6 hours. The others are medium sized and should give you 8 to 10 hours. Flush inserts also rely more on the blower to get the heat out than inserts that protrude onto the hearth.


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## Kosmik (May 5, 2014)

kennny said:


> begreen, if my chimney is too short for it, any way I can extend it? I saw some houses have stainless pipe extended out from their roof. Is it something hard/expensive to get? since I am thinking of installing the SS liner, I could connect it to the extension?
> The picture Kosmik sent was this
> http://www.doctorflue.com/gallery/wood-insert-4.jpg
> It most likely to be at price range out of my budget anyway though.


No idea, just a random google pic that looked closer than others to your brickwork.
I googled 'masonry fireplace insert', I think.


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## alex14 (May 6, 2014)

From my point of view I think you need to go with Multi fuel burning stoves.


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## kennny (May 20, 2014)

Sorry for not responding for a while. Had a certificate exam(job related) last weekend.

So here are few developments on this fireplace conversion project. I did get the used Avalon Rainier. It was being sold locally in my area with very clean condition and the sale included 12'+ solid piping(one rigid section of 5+ pipe plus a flexible(not liner) pipe of 7+). I will try to put up pictures of these later.

About my fireplace, there were few new findings over the weekend.
The baffle in the throat is not usable at all and falling apart from years of corrosion.(not just the baffle plate, but the whole assembly as well). It was surprising because only thing my inspector told me was that the baffle was not closing well. I guess he never stick his head into the opening.
Last weekend, I tried to force the baffle to open and it separated one corner of the assembly and half of baffle plate fell off. I probably need to take the whole thing out of the way before the insert installation. If you have any suggestion how to remove the whole baffle assembly, please let me know. I could not find much information regarding it on internet.

Good news is that my chimney actually was 13+ feet tall. I still need to measure the exact height accounting the stove height but I was glad that my initial guess was wrong. I will keep you updated. 

/begreen, do you know any good chimney sweep in Bellevue/Issaquah area?

Thank you guys and have a good week.

Ken


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## begreen (May 20, 2014)

Good to see that you are making some progress kennny. The flex pipe is most likely flex liner. It's used for the final connection through the damper area. I'm surprised that your damper is falling apart. The house doesn't look that old. Look to see if there are bolted pivot bearings on either end of the damper. If so, these pivot blocks can be unbolted and removed. Then the damper can also be pulled out. If not, a sawzall with a metal blade or a cut off grinder can cut through the axles on either end.

I don't know good sweeps in your area. Maybe give Sutter Home in Woodenville a call and see if they have a recommended list? A search of these sites shows Seattle certified sweeps and one in Redmond.
http://seattlebrickmaster.com/
http://www.csia.org/
http://www.ncsg.org/


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## Grisu (May 20, 2014)

Not that it really matters but maybe someone burnt driftwood in there which killed the damper? Certainly not something that should go into the stove.


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## kennny (May 20, 2014)

Hello Grisu, while I was organizing the garage, I found few boxes of pressed logs which looked very old.. .maybe that was the culprit?

begreen, thanks for the suggestion, I will start cleaning the firebox today and will look for any pivots/joints. Hope I do not have to buy another power tool


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## begreen (May 20, 2014)

Unlikely that pressed logs did this and it would be a long haul to bring salty driftwood to your place. Hard to believe that with so much timber and clearing work happening nearby, but anything is possible. Or it could be that it was just a cheap damper assembly.


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## kennny (Jun 4, 2014)

Finally, I was able to install the insert. It looked better than I was thinking for sure.
Still need to do some finishing touches but almost there. Appreciate all the comments and advice so far.
I would like to ask few more questions to experts here regarding the operation of the insert.

I test burned few times worrying about the excess heat driving us out of house being the weather too warm these days.. but it wasn't the case. Except only few feet away from the insert, I couldn't tell much difference. This concerns me.. in winter, the house gets pretty cold without main heating and only this much of heat output may not be sufficient to use even for a partial heat source. I have a magnet thermo and the stove top was around 500-550F, so I think the stove itself burns okay. Probably having issue with heat distribution. The insert doesn't have a blower.

The family room where the fireplace/insert located in has vaulted ceiling and all the hot air may go up and trapped there.
After 1-2hr of burning, I feel completely nothing in the living room connected to the family room on the same floor, not to mention about the 2nd floor.
I also did very poor job on installing the block-off plate and there are some gaps for the heated air to escape. but I have stuffed the roxul for almost entire chimney system and heat loss there shouldn't be too great.
I had few different wood burnt and some of them were pine not seasoned enough, but most of them were well seasoned hard wood like oak, apple.(I guess with the stove temp 550, it was burning okay)

I will probably try once again with a floor fan located somewhere on the floor. I would appreciate any advice where I should place it. From the forum here, some says have the wind blow across the window of insert to push the hot air toward the other area(cold), some others say, to use natural air flow, you need to push cold air toward insert. Both make sense to me, should I use two fans? 
If I take off the surrounding panel, would that help?

Nevertheless, it was a joy being able to watch roaring fire right in your couch.
Sorry for the long note.. have a good day guys.

Ken


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## begreen (Jun 4, 2014)

Congratulations. By the description it sounds like a ceiling fan or two need to be installed to distribute the heat trapped at the peak of the ceiling.


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