# To split or not to split



## olsonbri (Sep 19, 2011)

I have a general question in regard to burning unsplit wood.  I don't own an 'auto log splitter'.  We have an EPA z42.  I understand split logs are easier to light up, but for adding logs to coals is there any reason/benefit to adding whole logs vs. split logs?  Can I load the maximum diameter that will physically fit in our fireplace?  I don't see anything in the owner's manual regarding this.

Thanks much!
--Bri


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## rdust (Sep 19, 2011)

olsonbri said:
			
		

> Can I load the maximum diameter that will physically fit in our fireplace?
> 
> Thanks much!
> --Bri



Usually wood burns better with 3 or more pieces, if you can only fit one large diameter log in I say it's too big.  Large logs also don't season as quickly so I split anything larger than a 6" diameter.


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## KTLM (Sep 19, 2011)

I agree with rdust. Even, if , you could get the whole log to burn alone it would most likely smoulder and condense alot of creasote in your chimney. Splitting is good therapy.


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## MasterMech (Sep 19, 2011)

We split even the 4" rounds because they season so much nicer.  Plus you can halve 'em with a half-hearted swing from my splitting hatchet.


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## peakbagger (Sep 19, 2011)

To get the cleanest burn, you really want to split wood the smaller the better, which allows the stove to get up to temperature quickly. Of course this means a fast burn, so many folks like to throw large logs on to extend the duration of the fire. The key is if the stove can handle large wood while staying in the gasification range. As noted by others, split wood seasons quicker. On some species like white birch splitting is mandatory as the bark is waterproof and the logs will rot if they arent split.


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## Backwoods Savage (Sep 19, 2011)

olsonbri said:
			
		

> I have a general question in regard to burning unsplit wood.  I don't own an 'auto log splitter'.  We have an EPA z42.  I understand split logs are easier to light up, but for adding logs to coals is there any reason/benefit to adding whole logs vs. split logs?  Can I load the maximum diameter that will physically fit in our fireplace?  I don't see anything in the owner's manual regarding this.
> 
> Thanks much!
> --Bri




Bri, burning whole logs is fine so long as they have had lots and lots of time to properly dry. We usually have some rounds every year and I like to burn them during the nights to help hold the fire longer. However, I would not want to put the maximum size that I could stuff in the door as that would be too big and would not allow much more to be put in with the round. 

So in short, the benefit of adding rounds is that it will prolong the fire.....as long as you still have other wood. Once the fire burns up the other wood, the round will be sitting there and will not burn the best being the only log. Wood likes friends close. Have you ever built a fire outdoors? If so, you no doubt noticed that it is almost impossible to get a fire going without at least 3 pieces of wood. That tells you much right there. 

Also, as others have stated, splitting the wood allows the wood to dry much, much faster. Please do yourself a favor by drying your wood at least a year before burning. You'll take away most of the wood burner's problems by doing this and also will burn less wood and get more heat from it.


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## olsonbri (Sep 20, 2011)

Thanks a lot for the replies.  I scrounged up about 4 cords when we had a wind storm about a month ago.  I don't intend on burning it this winter.  I do have a source for some well seasoned split oak & cedar for this year.

It sounds like I need to get the bigger stuff split.  I asked my wife for a fiskars x25 splitting axe for my bday.  I hope it works better than the big box store axe, or a) I need to learn how to spit wood or b) rent a log splitter!
First time we've ever had a fireplace and want to use it to the max.  Our main living space is electric furnace, and that's an extra incentive to burn wood.

--Bri


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## billb3 (Sep 20, 2011)

Split will season better and splits  have more surface area burning .

Unless your stove is HUGE you want lots of available surface area.

One big log would likely get cold and go out. That would happen to me with a fireplace every time I tried it.
A HUGE fireplace that could hold 4 or 5 logs it might work. Course, then you'd try even bigger logs, right ?


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## Kenster (Sep 21, 2011)

Olsonbri, be careful with burning cedar.  It will burn super hot and can easily overfire your stove.  I'd never use cedar for anything more than kindling myself.


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## olsonbri (Sep 23, 2011)

Glad you mentioned that Kenster.  Is the cedar you refer to Juniper?  Some of what we're about to burn is Juniper, aka Cedar - but I know Cedar can be a common name and reflect more than one tree genus.  I recall that snap and pop in an open fire burning Juniper (eastern red cedar) when I was a kid... not sure if I'll hear any sound in our z42 with the doors closed (??)

Another round with the axe tonight... I decided that, even though my fireplace takes 22" logs, it is not wise for me to cut 22" logs if I'm to split it by hand!  The learning curve here is kind of a joke on me.  I want to laugh at myself and at the same time cry about all the 20+" logs I cut this summer!


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## steeltowninwv (Sep 23, 2011)

Yep..split..except keep some for those overnight Burns...locust rounds are great for overnighters


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## nate379 (Sep 23, 2011)

I split everything other than the very small stuff that isn't practicle to split.

And please stop these rumors about overfiring because of a certain wood.  You can pack the stove full of whatever, just turn down the darn draft so you don't get the stove and pipe glowing cherry red!  And NO this isn't just with the Blaze King.  I have been heating with wood my whole life in several different places with many different stoves.  The old 55 gal drum stove we used in the shop used to get the sides glowing red if there was a good fire going in there, but that was very thin metal and no firebrick.  It would be VERY hard to get a quality stove with firebrick to be glowing!


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## krex1010 (Sep 23, 2011)

as was mentioned unsplit rounds take much longer to season, that being said i usually have some unsplit rounds, some large splits, medium spilts and small split in my stack.  i try to give myself a good mixture when i am processing wood, it gives me lots of options when i am burning.  so on a cold night i can put an unsplit round and a large split in my stove and then fill in all the gaps with medium and small splits.  i always split oak though, we will all be dead before an unsplit oak round seasons.


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## Wood Duck (Sep 23, 2011)

olsonbri said:
			
		

> Glad you mentioned that Kenster.  Is the cedar you refer to Juniper?  Some of what we're about to burn is Juniper, aka Cedar - but I know Cedar can be a common name and reflect more than one tree genus.  I recall that snap and pop in an open fire burning Juniper (eastern red cedar) when I was a kid... not sure if I'll hear any sound in our z42 with the doors closed (??)
> 
> Another round with the axe tonight... I decided that, even though my fireplace takes 22" logs, it is not wise for me to cut 22" logs if I'm to split it by hand!  The learning curve here is kind of a joke on me.  I want to laugh at myself and at the same time cry about all the 20+" logs I cut this summer!



I have quite a bit of Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana) and burn it just like any other wood. It does make good kindling if I can find a clear piece without knots. As kindling it lights fast and smells great while it sits in the wood holder waiting to be burned. It does burn hot and fast like most softwood/conifers, but an adjustment of the air control is all I need to control it.

I don't know if the axe you are using is really an axe - meant to cut wood (as is cut a log into two shorter logs) - or a maul meant to split short logs length-wise. If it is an axe, I recommend you try a maul. A Fiskar's is a great tool, but a regular hardware store 6 lb or 8 lb maul is also a huge improvement over an ax. Don't get discouraged. There is a skill to splitting wood, and it takes a little time to master. Once you have it figured out, most splitting is pure fun, 10% is an aggravating hassle ending with a satisfying result, and 2% is even more aggravating and ends with a knotty piece of wood thrown aside for "later," which is more or less the same as "never."


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## pen (Sep 23, 2011)

If you are over 5foot 9 or so I'd suggest the x27 fiskars.  I have both and while I think the x25 works very well, I really make sure I've got the steel toe boots on as the shorter handle makes it more likes to come down into the feet / shins if the strike doesn't go right.

pen


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