# Cutting UNIFORM length's for the spliter ?..................



## skyskier (Oct 15, 2013)

The wood I've been getting from the tree trimming company comes it at ALL different length's, lots of rounds and limbs etc., what do you guy's use to get some kind of uniformity ? It's not THAT big a deal to me but this year I'm thinking I MIGHT start stacking cords for sale, (keyword here is "might" )............is there some kind of a "jig" you can make to where you could get even length's without having to somehow "measure" out each piece ? .....................any photo's of what you're using would be greatly appreciated.


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## gzecc (Oct 15, 2013)

I just wing it. Sometimes using the chainsaw bar as a guide. Usually its a question of y's and knots the determine the length of the round.


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## jeffesonm (Oct 15, 2013)

I use a marker and draw a line on the chainsaw bar 16" from the end.  For my 12" bar it's the felling guide mark on the sprocket cover.


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## skyskier (Oct 15, 2013)

gzecc said:


> I just wing it. Sometimes using the chainsaw bar as a guide. Usually its a question of y's and knots the determine the length of the round.



Pretty much what I've been doing also. I've seen some of the member's "woodshed's" here that look to be "flush cut" on the ends , that's what prompted to post this inquiry. 20 some years ago I was up in Idaho, the saw mills were STILL in full running mode, there was a guy that had 60, maybe 80 cords of fire wood stacked along side the road. The stacks were SO uniform I had to finally stop an ask him how he cut them, he showed me his firewood operation, he had single  shaft type deal that had 18 maybe 20, 16 inch saw blades, spaced at 20 inches. He'd drop a 24 ft. long log on a conveyer belt, feed the log in till it hit a stop at the one end, it would lock down the log, that shaft would drop with all the blades making a single cut, then the "cut offs" were fed into a dump truck an hauled to the spliter !!......................pretty awesome deal, never seen anything like it before or since.


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## Slow1 (Oct 15, 2013)

Perhaps I am anal or have too much time on my hands, but I have a "marker stick" which is the length I desire to have my splits.  I then use a piece of chalk and walk down the log marking each length.  Final cut leaves a short piece which (depending on how short) will be a chunk.  This way when I cut my own logs they are all almost identical in length (I have taken to just cutting through knots etc).  Sure makes it easier to stack even if it takes an extra swing or two to split the pieces.

I bought some wood this year cut and split - I think the uneven lengths alone make it worth doing my own cutting!


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## tdibiasio (Oct 15, 2013)

I made a simple marking "gauge" by taking a long deck screw (5") and a piece of string the length I wanted the bucks to be, then simply tied a yellow lumber crayon to the other end of the string.  I bought a box of lumber crayons years ago from an online company and have only used 2 of the 12 that came in the box so far.  This simple method works great as the lumber crayon will mark dry or wet bark, and all I have to do is cut a flush end on one side of the log and walk my way down and hold the deck screw and just swing the crayon to make a mark.  The string allows me to go over the humps and bumps of the logs very easily.  The marking gauge then goes in the front pocket of my carhart overalls so it is always close at hand.

Now I take it one step further (wife calls it OCD) - I actually make a slight saw cut at all of the crayon marks before bucking the log as I have found sometimes the sawdust from the previous cut can cover up the crayon marks.......


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## Ashful (Oct 15, 2013)

I have a few scraps of lumber cut to 20" length.  Walk along log with my top-handle saw in the right hand, and the 20" measuring stick in my left, marking off the log.  Before I had the top-handle saw, I used a hatchet or sidewalk chalk with the stick.

Another member (smokinj? Big Redd?) used to string a tape measure, and mark off the log with chalk, before they'd start bucking.


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## MDFisherman (Oct 15, 2013)

I have a marking stick right around 20" and I use a can of marking paint.  I try to lay out the cuts around the knots and the y's.  If they're that nasty I just leave them in the woods because I usually hand split.


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## TreePointer (Oct 15, 2013)

Lots of options:

Mingo Marker
Quick Stix
Tap and Cut (make your own)
Draw a line on your bar at 16" (or whatever length you want)

Most of the time I just eyeball it after cutting the first couple lengths using the 16" mark on my chainsaw bar.  Mingo Marker works great on straighter wood.  I want to make a Tap and Cut because it looks very effective.

I've never tried the Quick Stix.  Others have made their own variation by attaching them to the bar.  Some use bolts and others have used magnets.


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## Paulywalnut (Oct 15, 2013)

I use a black magic marker and a tape measure and measure every one 16 inches
times ten cord. . Really I use my 18" bar eyed up for 16" cuts knots and all. Do
the easiest way you can.


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## Backwoods Savage (Oct 15, 2013)

Cut a stick as long as you want the wood. Lay it on the log and just draw a short line with some chalk. Or you can buy a nice red marking stick which you can find in any Home Depot or that type of store. Some call them carpenter's markers.

Someone also on this forum made a unique marker using pvc. Made it into a T shape so it had a long handle to keep from having to bend. Picture the top of the T. Now near both ends of the T, cut a small slice with a hack saw so that you end up with a line about 1-2" or longer if your prefer. Fill the end of that with blue chalk and as you lay it on the log, a small amount of chalk come out. Then you just keep flipping the thing over and over making marks along the log. Seemed to work very well. I had thought about making one but have used a marking crayon for so long and it is very simple and easy. I would suggest painting the marking stick a bright red to keep from losing it.


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## TreePointer (Oct 15, 2013)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Someone also on this forum made a unique marker using pvc....



You mean the Tap and Cut?


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## MrWhoopee (Oct 16, 2013)

Tap n Cut for me. It's catching on with my friends.


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## MarkinNC (Oct 16, 2013)

I use marking paint and a tape measure. I tried the chalk and did not like it.  I am getting  little snobby and will turn up my nose at something cut to "firewood" length already.  If it a log I can go in, mark and cut, I'll do it.  I believe I have been through one can of marking paint (not gone yet actually) and changed out one tape measure in 3 years.


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## paul bunion (Oct 16, 2013)

A Piece of scrap 1x or hardwood flooring and an axe or hatchet are how I been doing it for years.  I'm cutting logs in my yard.  I could see using a marked bar if I was out in the woods and not messing with keeping track of a 16" piece of scrap lumber.


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## Ashful (Oct 16, 2013)

paul bunion said:


> A Piece of scrap 1x or hardwood flooring and an axe or hatchet are how I been doing it for years.  I'm cutting logs in my yard.  I could see using a marked bar if I was out in the woods and not messing with keeping track of a 16" piece of scrap lumber.


I paint my measuring stick fluorescent orange, for that reason.  I also always try to set it down next to my top-handle saw, which is my "marker".


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## Backwoods Savage (Oct 16, 2013)

TreePointer said:


> You mean the Tap and Cut?



Thanks. That is the one.


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## velvetfoot (Oct 16, 2013)

Joful said:


> I paint my measuring stick fluorescent orange, for that reason.  I also always try to set it down next to my top-handle saw, which is my "marker".


I also paint my measuring stick orange and have had it for several years now.  I put it up against the log and note where the end is, keep my eye on it, and keep the stick in my left hand as I cut.


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## Sawer (Feb 11, 2016)

TreePointer said:


> Lots of options:
> 
> Mingo Marker
> Quick Stix
> ...


Another option with good reviews is the Woodcutters Helper:


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## heavy hammer (Feb 11, 2016)

You could just lay a tape out on the ground, and the eye it up to the log I have done that before.  If there are two of you there cutting one guy gets the tape the other the saw.  Make a small cut by the length you want in all the wood you need processed.  When it is all marked/ cut both of you grab a saw and go to town.  Takes a little to get all marked out, but once done all wood is good and both can go at it.


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## Deano31 (Feb 11, 2016)

Mingo marker


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Feb 11, 2016)

Sidewalk chalk and a free HF tape measure.  Been meaning cut and paint florescent a reference stick for years.  I really hate when a piece is just a little to long to go in north-south.


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## trailrated (Feb 11, 2016)

Ashful said:


> Another member (smokinj? Big Redd?) used to string a tape measure, and mark off the log with chalk, before they'd start bucking.



This is what I do. String a tape measure and measure 16'' with a lumber crayon. Couldn't be anymore simpler and takes about a minute or less per log.


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## jetsam (Feb 11, 2016)

trailrated said:


> This is what I do. String a tape measure and measure 16'' with a lumber crayon. Couldn't be anymore simpler and takes about a minute or less per log.



I have an 18" chainsaw bar and a stove that likes 18" wood, so that works out for me.


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## Oldman47 (Feb 11, 2016)

If you want everything the same length just build a simple frame with a piece of plywood or even a wide 1x board on one side. Stack all of the wood in it to touch that side then use your pre-measured reference, whatever you like, to make a consistent cut. Maybe you just cut everything about an inch from one of the vertical frame members for instance. Depending on how many rounds you can fit inside it will give you that many all at once. It can even be used to trim off splits that are too long.


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## Poindexter (Feb 11, 2016)

I had a separate measuring stick for a while, put a mark on my woodchuck hookaroon thingy instead, one less piece of gear to lose in the woods.

I do fine with one piece of yellow and one piece of blue sidewalk chalk in my saw box.  One or the other shows up real nice.  

I probably will try a pair 10d or so nails connected with a 16" piece of string someday.  For that to work good I want the nails to be big enough to grip easy with gloves on, but small enough to pocket easy.

The hookaroon with the mark is 32", I just used a permanent marker 16" from each end.


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## SawdustSA (Feb 12, 2016)

I use 2 nails with a piece of string inbetween.  Quick to mark a log and it takes up no space in the toolbox.  I fact, I keep it in my pocket while bucking a tree.


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## Vikestand (Feb 12, 2016)

The old eyeball gets it close enough. my stove doesn't discriminate against a piece that is 17" or 16".


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## Hasufel (Feb 12, 2016)

I just let my bar be my guide--the visible part is almost exactly the right length. That works surprisingly well, at least with my current saw. Sometimes I'll adjust if I encounter some big knots--cut the knotty part short so it's easier to split, and maybe leave the straight sections a bit long. I like having a mix of longer and shorter pieces for my outdoor fireplace so that works out pretty well.


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## jetsam (Feb 12, 2016)

I like the chainsaw bar because it seems to be the best answer to the question, "What measuring tool is easiest to lug through the woods, assuming I'm already lugging chainsaw, hatchet, wedges, and often a maul?"


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## Ashful (Feb 12, 2016)

jetsam said:


> I like the chainsaw bar because it seems to be the best answer to the question, "What measuring tool is easiest to lug through the woods, assuming I'm already lugging chainsaw, hatchet, wedges, and often a maul?"


Uh... try doing that turn-the-saw technique to eye the length of each round with a real saw.  It will get old VERY fast.  "Real saw" means something over 75cc, or anything useful for actually bucking logs.

I love the string and nails idea... never tried that.  I'm a 17" stick in left hand, with top-handle saw or big chalk in right hand, guy.


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## baseroom (Feb 12, 2016)

Eyeball it.  I actually don't want everything uniform.  The IR has a narrower section at the back.  So if I'm loading E-W I need shorter logs to fill the back and longer to fill up the front.  Now if i load N-S I need another length log to fill most of the stove but some real short ones on both sides.  So the loading game is much more fun and productive with different sized splits.  I will say it does make stacking much more of a challenge!


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## sportbikerider78 (Feb 12, 2016)

Eyeball.  I aim for 19-21"


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## Vikestand (Feb 12, 2016)

Ashful said:


> Uh... try doing that turn-the-saw technique to eye the length of each round with a real saw.  It will get old VERY fast.  "Real saw" means something over 75cc, or anything useful for actually bucking logs.
> 
> I love the string and nails idea... never tried that.  I'm a 17" stick in left hand, with top-handle saw or big chalk in right hand, guy.



Why? As a quote from braveheart "Some men are bigger than others!"


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## DougA (Feb 12, 2016)

I cut a stick the correct length, painted it fluorescent yellow and it lasted a week before it got lost.

Now, I just hold the saw at the correct spot on the handle at the end of the last cut and the end of the bar is at the right spot for the next cut. If I loose the saw, well, can't cut anyway  If I have a helper with me, I get them to do the same thing with the bush axe and chop a mark where to cut.


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## jetsam (Feb 12, 2016)

Ashful said:


> Uh... try doing that turn-the-saw technique to eye the length of each round with a real saw.  It will get old VERY fast.  "Real saw" means something over 75cc, or anything useful for actually bucking logs.



The biggest trees around here are 36" and down for the most part. I don't need to be carrying a motorcycle engine through the woods to cut firewood!


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## Pennsyltucky Chris (Feb 12, 2016)

I have a 48" 2x4 that I have marked at 16" and 32". I line either end up and make 3 marks with spray paint. I move down the trunk accordingly.


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## billb3 (Feb 12, 2016)

I use the bar for 16"
No BFD if some are longer, one stove can take 20" easy .
My sister has a top loader that can take 24/25 maybe longer.


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## Ashful (Feb 12, 2016)

jetsam said:


> The biggest trees around here are 36" and down for the most part. I don't need to be carrying a motorcycle engine through the woods to cut firewood!


I use an 85 cc saw for bucking.  It's so damn fast with a 28" bar, that my cutting partner doesn't even bother starting his 50cc Echo anymore.  I'm mostly cutting stuff in the 40 - 48 inch range, since the land-owner keeps the smaller stuff for himself.


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## Vikestand (Feb 12, 2016)

jetsam said:


> The biggest trees around here are 36" and down for the most part. I don't need to be carrying a motorcycle engine through the woods to cut firewood!


I laughed lol


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## Vikestand (Feb 12, 2016)

Ashful said:


> I use an 85 cc saw for bucking.  It's so damn fast with a 28" bar, that my cutting partner doesn't even bother starting his 50cc Echo anymore.  I'm mostly cutting stuff in the 40 - 48 inch range, since the land-owner keeps the smaller stuff for himself.



what variety of tree?


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Feb 12, 2016)

SawdustSA said:


> I use 2 nails with a piece of string inbetween.  Quick to mark a log and it takes up no space in the toolbox.  I fact, I keep it in my pocket while bucking a tree.


Great idea- I'm switching to your technique!  Thanks Sawdust.


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## Ashful (Feb 12, 2016)

Vikestand said:


> what variety of tree?


On that property, almost entirely oak and ash.  I've hauled out a few sassafras and two hickory, but cords and cords and cords of oak and ash.  The sass and hickory are smaller, with the oak and ash varying from maybe 18" to 60" diameter.  As mentioned previously, he keeps the manageable stuff for his own needs, and gives me the big stuff.  It's a mutually-beneficial relationship... I think.


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## Vikestand (Feb 13, 2016)

Trees that size can bring some money.


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## Ashful (Feb 14, 2016)

Yep... but not for me!  Not my land.  The owner has thought a little bit about having it logged, but has decided against it, since the wood is not accessible without going thru the yards of the two houses he has on this property, and doing a lot of damage getting back to the big stuff.  Good for me!


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## firefighterjake (Feb 14, 2016)

I use Global Positioning Satellites and laser surveyor tools . . . nah . . . I just use the chainsaw bar and after awhile you can get pretty good at eyeballing it . . . and as someone else said, usually an inch or two or three doesn't make that much of a difference (at least in my case since I aim for 18 inches and my stove can take a longer split.)


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## venator260 (Feb 16, 2016)

velvetfoot said:


> I also paint my measuring stick orange and have had it for several years now.  I put it up against the log and note where the end is, keep my eye on it, and keep the stick in my left hand as I cut.




This is what I do. Seems to be the fastest way. It's easier to progress up the tree to the left, as I'm right handed. Measure with the left hand with the saw resting against my leg in the right. Eyeball the spot, swing the saw up around, grab it with my left hand that has the stick in it, and cut. I can keep this up for a few hours, although i suppose my saw doesn't quite meet the "real man" definition laid out previously. It's only 60cc (Husky 562 XP) This one is quite a bit easier to lug around than the McColluch Timber Bear that cut the logs to buy the saw (13lbs. vs. 18lbs) 

I'm usually processing full length trees less saleable logs, so some of the systems I've seen that involve placing trees on top wouldn't work for me. The above works pretty well, and the tractor with forks allows me to pile up the wood and keep my chain out of the dirt. This system also worked on the logyard cleanup my dad and I got into this spring processing butt cuts and end cuts. Just had to roll the piece over to finish the cut.


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## jb6l6gc (Feb 16, 2016)

Wow some guys definitely overthink it kinda reminds me of that artisan firewood video. My eye is calibrated to a certain range. Haven't cut one yet that doesn't fit or stack well!


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Feb 16, 2016)

jb6l6gc said:


> Wow some guys definitely overthink it kinda reminds me of that artisan firewood video. My eye is calibrated to a certain range. Haven't cut one yet that doesn't fit or stack well!


I have!  And way too often when I don't mark em first.  Pulling a burning split back out of the stove when it is just a half inch too long to close the glass door is no fun.  I  greatly prefer loading North-South, as I can stuff it full and the they don't want to roll forward (onto the floor).  When you have just over 16 inches, you want to get your money's worth.


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## jb6l6gc (Feb 16, 2016)

ED 3000 said:


> I have!  And way too often when I don't mark em first.  Pulling a burning split back out of the stove when it is just a half inch too long to close the glass door is no fun.  I  greatly prefer loading North-South, as I can stuff it full and the they don't want to roll forward (onto the floor).  When you have just over 16 inches, you want to get your money's worth.


Then again I have a furnace and a Zc fireplace both can take a good length not like most stoves.


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## venator260 (Feb 16, 2016)

ED 3000 said:


> I have!  And way too often when I don't mark em first.  Pulling a burning split back out of the stove when it is just a half inch too long to close the glass door is no fun.  I  greatly prefer loading North-South, as I can stuff it full and the they don't want to roll forward (onto the floor).  When you have just over 16 inches, you want to get your money's worth.




I load east-west so this isn't an issue. However, cutting my sticks so they'll just fit tilizes the firebox better, allowing me to stuff in more wood per load.


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## venator260 (Feb 16, 2016)

ED 3000 said:


> I have!  And way too often when I don't mark em first.  Pulling a burning split back out of the stove when it is just a half inch too long to close the glass door is no fun.  I  greatly prefer loading North-South, as I can stuff it full and the they don't want to roll forward (onto the floor).  When you have just over 16 inches, you want to get your money's worth.




I load east-west so this isn't an issue. However, cutting my sucks so they'll just fit tilizes the firebox better, allowing me to stuff in more wood per load.


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## jetsam (Feb 16, 2016)

jb6l6gc said:


> Wow some guys definitely overthink it kinda reminds me of that artisan firewood video. My eye is calibrated to a certain range. Haven't cut one yet that doesn't fit or stack well!



I cut about a quarter cord about an inch too long one day. That was great.

Now I really try to measure each cut with the bar if I'm not sure.

I am getting better at eyeballing it, but I still screw it up once in a while. 

I also found a photo of Ashful getting ready to put the bar on his saw!


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