# Jï¿½tul F 50 TL Rangeley - Anyone burning?



## PJF1313 (Nov 30, 2010)

Yeah, I know it's new on the market, but has anyone took the plunge on one yet?

We(she) narrowed the the field to Jï¿½tul or P.E. 

  I think the Jï¿½tul F-400 Castine MIGHT be too small - so we start looking at the Oslo and the T6.
It will be a corner install - no questions or doubts about it (yeah, C-4 will do wonders!   ) but the
current plan is just about set in stone.  I like the looks, reliability, reputation, and reviews of Jï¿½tul
in general and the F-500 in particular; she like the looks of the P.E. T6.

  Since they both "look" close/similar (TL 50 vs T-6) and the Jï¿½tul F-500 & TL50 have the "same" output,
(70k BTU) 

  I'm just for some input  -  pros / cons; greatest thing since sliced bread/biggest P.O.S. since S.!

  So far, as from what I read from the owners/installation manual; parts break down, on the TL50, 
there seems to be too much "Mickey Mouse" motion going on, as respect to the secondary baffle,
to cause Murphy to show his ugly head.  No, I havn't seen one "up close and personal" to get the 
"feel" of it.  Yes, granted, I would love to load from the top to keep from bending/stooping to load 
from the front, ( the Olso would have the side door locked in my installation [with the "ash problems"])
I could (more than likely, will) build a raised hearth to bring either (T-6/F-500) up to a "comfortable"
height.   In retrospect, I do like the top loading - reminds me of my Grandmas' wood cooking stove
that she had in the kitchen.(another LONG story . . .)

Thanks in advance,
P.J.


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## jotulguy (Nov 30, 2010)

I saw it burning in Hershey Pa..... The dealer said he loved it so far! It was reading over 700 degrees while i was there. The glass was clean and the dealer showed me how easy it was to load from the top with a large load of wood. That being said...its a new product. Atleast we all know Jotul stands behind their products if there are any bugs.


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## Todd (Nov 30, 2010)

I've been wondering the same thing and waiting to hear some reviews. I like the top loading feature, looks like a great design and would be easy on the knees. Maybe you should just take the plunge on the F 50 TL and be our guinea pig? ;-)


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## BrowningBAR (Nov 30, 2010)

Todd said:
			
		

> I've been wondering the same thing and waiting to hear some reviews.* I like the top loading feature*, looks like a great design and would be easy on the knees. Maybe you should just take the plunge on the F 50 TL and be our guinea pig? ;-)




As do I. Which is why I wish VC would get their act together. I would purchase an Encore to replace the Vigilant at some point if I had any faith in them.


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## jeffee (Nov 30, 2010)

jotulguy said:
			
		

> [...] Atleast we all know Jotul stands behind their products if there are any bugs.



I don't want to hijack this thread, but this has not been my experience.  My F 118 CB Black Bear had problems with interior baffle and burn plates twisting and cracking, with me following the operating instructions very carefully including never overfiring, and I just ended up selling it for $500 dollars.  I was in touch with my dealer the whole time, even asking him to put me in touch with Jotul.  The closest that became of that was my dealer 'representing' my interests in one or two conversations with a Jotul rep or tech person.  Nothing whatsoever came from those conversations.  All of this happened within the first 3 years of my brand new Jotul.

-Jeff


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## PJF1313 (Nov 30, 2010)

Todd said:
			
		

> I've been wondering the same thing and waiting to hear some reviews. I like the top loading feature, looks like a great design and would be easy on the knees. Maybe you should just take the plunge on the F 50 TL and *be our guinea pig? ;-)*



Nom - nom- nom

  I like green, but... 2.5K isn't salad anymore!  :snake:


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## precaud (Nov 30, 2010)

jotulguy said:
			
		

> At least we all know Jotul stands behind their products if there are any bugs.



Yes, they stand _behind_ them so they can duck down to protect themselves... They didn't stand behind my F602 when it arrived damaged and the dealer failed to act. And there are some (ex) F118 owners who wouldn't agree with you, either.


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## PJF1313 (Nov 30, 2010)

@
Precaud & Jeffee

  What kind of issues did both of you have - was it a Dealer or Jotul? 

Jeffee - Did anything else come Jotul, or did they leave you about (an estimate in my area) 700 in the hole?

Precaud - Was it a dealer f-up/dropped the ball or Jotult?

I'm still a little leery about PE and current owner problems, but if Jotul is saying tuff S. to current owners, they'll be below
Vogelzang; US Stove; or any Chinese import,  I'll buy an Englandar than and drive down to VA and pick it up!  O.K.; MAYBE
she'll get over the B.K. Princess??? (gota love the dog house!)


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## nelraq (Nov 30, 2010)

I ran a PE spectrum for a couple of years; and was very happy/lucky to sell it for a decent price.  The major problems with the stove were more or less rectified when I sold it - it was actually running fairly well.  I just couldn't trust it!!
I replaced it with a Jotul Oslo (F500).  It was a very sluggish stove to begin with, but with the help of the members of this forum I was convinced to add 5.5 feet of chimney.  It now runs excellent, and I wouldn't part with it.

However....If you cannot load through the side door and must load through the front, I would recomment that you NOT go with the Oslo. Everytime you open the door you will have lots of ash falling on the ash lip and hearth - and if you swing the door all the way to the right, you will likely have (hot) ash falling on your floor. You will create a mess everytime you open the door!

The new Rangely looks good - the top load option would be great and easy!


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## precaud (Nov 30, 2010)

PJF, in my case it was first the dealer and then Jotul who completely dropped the ball, for a stove that was so poorly assembled it did not burn correctly. As one who was a Jotul dealer back in the 80's, I was completely shocked.

I'm sure there are many cases where Jotul did the right thing. I am only suggesting you not go into a Jotul purchase with rose-colored glasses on.

Also, read previous posts here about the Rangeley in particular, and about buying a stove in general. That a particular model reminds you of something your grandparents used is a poor criteria to select a stove by. It feeds right into the hands of marketing departments who prey on such emotion-based buying. Please be much more practical in your approach. Be especially wary of "features" which add unnecessary mechanical complexity to the firebox. Simple is good.


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## jeffee (Nov 30, 2010)

PJF1313 said:
			
		

> @
> Precaud & Jeffee
> 
> What kind of issues did both of you have - was it a Dealer or Jotul?
> ...



My issue was with Jotul, although I wish my dealer would have done more to help.  (Or did they know that it wouldn't have been fruitful?  I don't know)  The stove worked great, my only problem with it was that interior burn baffles / plates could not take the heat.  They started twisting and cracking within my second winter.  The stove cost me $1500 at the time plus about $150 for shields, plus tax, plus $200 I was charged parts and labor for the second interior baffle replacement.  I think you may be mistaken on your estimate -- these stoves are nearly $2,000 now.


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## blueberrypie (Dec 3, 2010)

I wish I could take the plunge on the new Jotul, but two dealers in my area (MA) do not expect shipment prior to the tax incentive deadline. I e-mailed a dealer who is in Gorham, Maine where these are being assembled, and was told they were on order and they may get a display in a few weeks.

For those of you who haven't seen the youtube video for the Rangeley http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_uUJUkILZ5Q

This is such a bummer. It had everything I want. I will probably purchase the PE T5.


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## PJF1313 (Dec 4, 2010)

bakedpotato said:
			
		

> I wish I could take the plunge on the new Jotul, but two dealers in my area (MA) do not expect shipment prior to the tax incentive deadline. I e-mailed a dealer who is in Gorham, Maine where these are being assembled, and was told they were on order and they may get a display in a few weeks.
> 
> For those of you who haven't seen the youtube video for the Rangeley http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_uUJUkILZ5Q
> 
> This is such a bummer. It had everything I want. I will probably purchase the PE T5.




  That's the same thing I hear from my dealer, early to mid January.  But, In my case, I'm a little over my max for the refund, so that doesn't have an affect on my decision.  I'm still undecided if I want to go with it, by atleat 2 factors : 1) Brand new design - I hate being a beta tester!  2) Too much/many moving parts to get gummed up, messed up alignment, break, troubleshoot.

  But I will still reserve judgment until I can "touch" the unit, feel it's workings, see what can/will/may/could mess up when needed the most.


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## jeffee (Dec 4, 2010)

bakedpotato said:
			
		

> I wish I could take the plunge on the new Jotul, but two dealers in my area (MA) do not expect shipment prior to the tax incentive deadline. I e-mailed a dealer who is in Gorham, Maine where these are being assembled, and was told they were on order and they may get a display in a few weeks.
> 
> For those of you who haven't seen the youtube video for the Rangeley http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_uUJUkILZ5Q
> 
> This is such a bummer. It had everything I want. I will probably purchase the PE T5.



Can't you purchase it before it arrives?  In other words, pay for it, and get a receipt.


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## PJF1313 (Dec 4, 2010)

jeffee said:
			
		

> bakedpotato said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...





AFAIK -

 The "appliance" (stove) MUST be in *service* before the dead line; 31 Dec 10.

My take is that it should be making heat at 23:59:59 on 31 December, 2010; NO pre-orders/pre-installes/waiting on the dealer/installer to put it in.



*I   M A Y   B E   W R O N G
*


 others should/will chime in on the IRS details.


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## pms1 (Dec 10, 2010)

we have 2400 sq ft to heat with lots of doublepane... and 22 ft ceilings. at 6000 ft in central arizona so not too rough.. and want to do this with wood.  we were looking into a great deal on a morso 3610 but with 60k btu max we felt it might not be enough.  so, the jotul f 50 tl came up.  has the added features people mention (e.g., top loading, cook top etc) and 70k btu.  i have only owned a regency hearth heater so this is new territory.  someone mentioned it had to be 'in service" and i too had read that on an EPA website... but a jotul press release says otherwise: http://www.jotul.us/en/wwwjotulus/Tools/Press-releases/?mode=PrintMode

asserts, purchase date must be this year.  we have learned that it won't be available until late jan / early feb in our area.  

we will likely wait and run the jotul over the less intense morso 3610 but WE ARE VERY OPEN TO YOUR SUGGESTIONS.  thanks.  pete


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## mtnfalcon (Dec 15, 2010)

pms1 said:
			
		

> we have learned that it wonï¿½t be available until late jan / early feb



That's what my local Jotul dealer said too. So I gave up on getting a top-loading Jotul and focused on non-cat offerings from Pacific Energy, Vermont Castings, Harman, Lopi and Quadra-fire. In the end, I think I'll go with a Harman TL300 or Oakwood, mainly because the only dealer in our state happens to be running specials, whereas every other wood stove dealer is not offering any sales due to the tax credit, plus this Harman dealer only charges $200 for the delivery and installation, which is sweet.

Anyway, the Jotul dealer, John M. (the inventor of the electric Draw Collar) managed to get in a handful of Rangeleys this past week. I sauntered in this evening and got to see and feel one. I'm impressed. I may have this wrong, but the all steel firebox wrapped in cast iron reminds of the floating firebox that Pacific Energy touts as the cat's meow. But my dealer told me the Rangely was $2499, which is a deal-breaker for me; I'd rather keep it at $2k or less. I thought someone else on this forum quoted the suggested retail as $2149. So that was a bummer.

I love that the Rangeley is top or front-loading, comes with adirons, and the top "cooking" plate is a massive, milled work of beauty.


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## Jotulover (Dec 15, 2010)

If I read it correctly the 50 TL comes with an option for the cast iron sides. Maybe that's why it was a higher price? Does anyone know the pricing on the all steel unit and the optional cast sides?


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## jrcurto (Dec 25, 2010)

Just completed the break-in fires for my new Rangely 50 TL.  Impressive heat output and primary air control.  Although my woodstove hearth, stove, and chimney project has taken two years, I am most satisfied with the draft from my chimney which was the main concern from the first floor of a two story.  I played with the top load and it is awesome so far, no smoke out of the baffle, and the cookplate makes it even more appealing.  This is a nice stove...I'll keep you posted.  Next up is 500 degrees!
Merry Christmas to all, Jim


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## PJF1313 (Dec 25, 2010)

jrcurto said:
			
		

> Just completed the break-in fires for my new Rangely 50 TL.  Impressive heat output and primary air control.  Although my woodstove hearth, stove, and chimney project has taken two years, I am most satisfied with the draft from my chimney which was the main concern from the first floor of a two story.  I played with the top load and it is awesome so far, no smoke out of the baffle, and the cookplate makes it even more appealing.  This is a nice stove...I'll keep you posted.  Next up is 500 degrees!
> Merry Christmas to all, Jim




Thanks Jim.

  I still haven't "felt" one as of yet.  I've got all the time in the world, so I can wait until late winter/early spring for my install.  

I will bug you every once in a while to see how you are making out with it.

Can you tell us more about your flue set up?  Top/rear vented?  Interior/exterior chimney? Masonry or Class "A" chimney?
A couple of pics would be nice also ;-) !

Thanks again, and a Merry Christmas to you.


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## Todd (Dec 25, 2010)

Yeah, keep us posted Jim. We also like pictures.


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## IH3444 (Dec 28, 2010)

Hello Jim, and thanks for the summary of your Jotul F50 TL stove. I too am extremely interested in this stove. I like the all steel welded construction, the rear flue, cook top, top loading option, and that it is completely manufactured here in the states. I was just at my dealer, and no Rangeleys have shipped to him yet. He hopes to have some no later than mid March. I guess I have to reread your post because I can't remember if you got the cast iron sides, or not. I'm leaning to a cast iron side one. Maybe some convection heat, and I think it looks much more appealing. From what I have read, this stove is welded 5/16" plate, whereas many welded stoves are 1/4". This is inline with top manufactures, such as Lopi. Just built more stout. I too am wanting to see some pictures when you have time to post them. This stove has all the makings of becoming another great Jotul stove. I found some pictures on the web, so I'll try and post them here. Thanks again, and keep us up to date on the Rangeley. 

IH3444


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## jotulguy (Dec 28, 2010)

IH3444 said:
			
		

> Hello Jim, and thanks for the summary of your Jotul F50 TL stove. I too am extremely interested in this stove. I like the all steel welded construction, the rear flue, cook top, top loading option, and that it is completely manufactured here in the states. I was just at my dealer, and no Rangeleys have shipped to him yet. He hopes to have some no later than mid March. I guess I have to reread your post because I can't remember if you got the cast iron sides, or not. I'm leaning to a cast iron side one. Maybe some convection heat, and I think it looks much more appealing. From what I have read, this stove is welded 5/16" plate, whereas many welded stoves are 1/4". This is inline with top manufactures, such as Lopi. Just built more stout. I too am wanting to see some pictures when you have time to post them. This stove has all the makings of becoming another great Jotul stove. I found some pictures on the web, so I'll try and post them here. Thanks again, and keep us up to date on the Rangeley.
> 
> IH3444


May I ask what dealer you went to? Because I have seen this stove burning in Hershey all redy. I would think they could get one earlier then march.


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## BrotherBart (Dec 28, 2010)

I can't help it. Every since this stove was announced all I can think about is that Monessen started making steel stoves in Vermont after they bought VC and VC's foundry has been making some castings for Jotul for a long time now. Am I looking at a VC made stove designed by Jotul?    

Makes not a wit of difference but inquiring minds want to know.


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## jotulguy (Dec 29, 2010)

BrotherBart said:
			
		

> I can't help it. Every since this stove was announced all I can think about is that Monessen started making steel stoves in Vermont after they bought VC and VC's foundry has been making some castings for Jotul for a long time now. Am I looking at a VC made stove designed by Jotul?
> 
> Makes not a wit of difference but inquiring minds want to know.


VC started pouring cast Jotul this spring. All the R&D for both companies is separate. They just pour into Jotul's molds.


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## Todd (Dec 29, 2010)

I like the look of the stove but not very impressed with the stats. Most manufactures exaggerate those burn times and sq ft heating numbers. Maybe Jotul is being more honest and realistic?


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## BrotherBart (Dec 29, 2010)

jotulguy said:
			
		

> BrotherBart said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



The foundry in Bethel was turning out some Jotul parts three years ago. Which is a good thing. That foundry puts out some of the best cast iron in the world. Heck they made the door for my Englander. Dimple in it and all.   And I haven't heard of any new large welding shops opening up in Gorham.

Not knocking the stove or the fabrication. Glad they are doing it. I would like to burn in one and see what it can do.


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## bboulier (Dec 29, 2010)

I can't figure out why one would want a "top-loading" stove. Front-loading/Side-loading,  Yes.  But a top loading stove just seems dangerous.  Perhaps that's why gloves are a standard add-on.


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## branchburner (Dec 29, 2010)

bboulier said:
			
		

> I can't figure out why one would want a "top-loading" stove. Front-loading/Side-loading,  Yes.  But a top loading stove just seems dangerous.  Perhaps that's why gloves are a standard add-on.



In a way it's safer: since you expect it to be dangerous, you take more precautions. Front and side can give a false sense of security. I've singed myself, and gotten a face full of smoke, on plenty of front and side loading experiences.


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## IH3444 (Dec 29, 2010)

The dealer is Bunting, in Chambersburg. Can you give me the name of the dealer you saw this stove burning at. I may drive over there. Did they quote you any pricing?


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## jotulguy (Dec 29, 2010)

IH3444 said:
			
		

> The dealer is Bunting, in Chambersburg. Can you give me the name of the dealer you saw this stove burning at. I may drive over there. Did they quote you any pricing?


North Forge Home Heating. They have 1 on display and  1 burning. I believe MSRP is $2,049 with steel sides and $2,249 with the cast sides.


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## jrcurto (Dec 29, 2010)

Hey guys, I promise to get some pictures up of the Rangeley.  To start, even the inspector was impressed with the stove looks and operation, It even diverted attention away from me and my installation story!  To start, I fully intended to buy the F 500 or 600 prior to buying the Rangely.  The steel/ cast combo seemed like a heat thumper and thats what I needed for my downstairs.  Topload option with a cookplate?...sold.  

I built a nice heavy duty corner hearth raised 8" and finished with slate.  All venting products were Simpson Duravent either ordered online or picked up at Tractor Supply (great deals here).  Stovepipe is DVL double wall and chimney is DuraPlus triple wall stainless.  Stovepipe runs up 24" then an 18" forty-five and up to the ceiling box.  I bought a 24" ceiling box which passes through the 18" attic space in the house corner fully enclosing the chimney to the roofline.  So the chimney is both ceiling and roof supported and attic sheilded...working in the attice was tough.  Cut and folded the support box at the roof and then finished flashing and chimney while running a propane blower on the rooftop in freezing weather (good times).  Chimney pipe extends 4 ft up from the point within ten feet and I have some draft to regulate. Custom designed my chimney roof brackets and installed them on Christmas Eve.  

After the break-in fires this unit just keeps on getting better.  For 1000 sq/ft space that normally is 60-65, now idles at 75 degrees!  Radiant heat blasts away while the convection rolls across the ceiling into other spaces.  The stove does like its belly fed, although I have been running it fully open with smaller loads and it hovers around 500 with cruising at 350.  Loading from the front is fun and lets you play with the coals but when its time to drop in a few loads of nice 12-18" long cordwood splits , topload is the way to go. The wood must go in east west carefully so it doesn't smack the glass but the andirons and carefull placement lets you pack her tight.  Those long gloves they give you are necessary for topload but are equally as good for frontloading, using for the openfireplace (soon to be insert), and for removing the venison sauerbraten roast from the kitchen oven  Overnight burn is no problem with air all the way down.  If I start using bigger splits and harder wood, 8-10 hr burn is a certatinty.  Not to mention frying french toast and homefries in cast iron on top of that big cookplate.  Ok, enough for now, I'll catch up later and post some pics.
Jim


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## begreen (Dec 29, 2010)

Thanks for the update Jim, sounds like a keeper! Try closing the air down at least half-way, or to when the flames get lazy instead of having the air control wide open. This will encourage secondary burning, even with smaller loads of fuel. If I am correct you will see flue temps drop (less heat up the flue) and stove top temps increase by at least 100F + longer burn times.


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## IH3444 (Dec 29, 2010)

I've been searching for the firebox size. Does anyone know? I've also been comparing it to the Harman Oakleaf in size. It has a 1.7cuft firebox.

Thanks for the update Jim.


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## branchburner (Dec 29, 2010)

IH3444 said:
			
		

> I've also been comparing it to the Harman Oakleaf in size. It has a 1.7cuft firebox.



Bigger... but maybe not bigger than the Oakwood (2.2 cu ft)? It's rated to heat 2000 sf.

Very annoying that Jotul continues to keep firebox sizes a secret... I think cu ft is the single most useful # when looking at stoves (not that the # is always truly correct, unfortunately).


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## IH3444 (Dec 29, 2010)

I ran across this review video when researching the Oakwood stove by Harman. I still like the all welded construction of the Rangeley. Wonder what thickness steel the Rangeley is? Sides? Top? 1/4"? 5/16"? After calling and speaking with several dealers about this stove I've found that I know more about it than they do, and one have never heard about it, and they are Jotul dealers.Amazing! Jotul...get the word out, with brochures!

I wish this stove was welded steel construction, with a clear view front window. The man doing the review is a good down to earth feller, and makes some very good points, as well as does a good job of possibly swaying me towards a cast iron Harman stove. I will have to see these also in person. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7h5rMexbjk

Thanks Branchburner for the firebox info.

My reasoning for all welded construction is presented by this reviewer.

https://www.hearth.com/ratesingles/rate2941.html


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## bboulier (Dec 30, 2010)

Thanks for posting the review.  Very nice introduction to burning wood.


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## branchburner (Dec 30, 2010)

IH3444 said:
			
		

> My reasoning for all welded construction is presented by this reviewer.
> 
> https://www.hearth.com/ratesingles/rate2941.html



Don't dismiss cast iron based on that review. Although the reviewer did not think the stove was overfired, it likely was to some degree. Stove top temps will not tell the full story - the AB temps get very high with that type of stove, depending on draft, wood, and the user. The problem was more likely the AB combustion package and gasketing around it, not the major seams. But the Jotul should be a more user-friendly experience in any case.


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## jrcurto (Dec 30, 2010)

Here are some Rangeley pics as promised.  Small load, primary closed halfway, 350 deg stovetop, secondaries just kicking in.  Just added another two splits before posting this...getting warm in here.  Need a cold Molson.


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## IH3444 (Dec 30, 2010)

Thanks for posting the pictures Jim. That setup looks very well designed. May I ask if you got the cast iron sides? I'm debating weather to get the cast iron sides, and wonder if they are necessary. Also I think about installing a possible side shield, and think the cast side would not be visible then. Are the cast sides removeable if one decides they want to remove them. I really enjoy the purple flame. Hope I can get mine to do that!


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## Todd (Dec 30, 2010)

Great looking install. Keep us updated, I think your the first person here with the new Jotul. Have you filled her up yet and seen how long she can go?


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## jrcurto (Dec 30, 2010)

I have the cast iron side plates.  When I first heard the dealer would be able to get the stove in mid- December I asked for the steel sides and planned to use the savings on the blower.  Jotul was only making cast ones initially and would not have steel sides available until late January.  So I think they want to get the better looking stoves out on the market first and then send some steel sides out.  With that being the obvious benefit of cast, it looks much nicer and completes the lines of the stove.  I am glad I have them, the stove looks all cast at first glance.  I found a bolt under the plate if you had to think about removing them but also think you would have to get past the firebrick from inside to actually loosen them.  I filled the stove at midnight and closed the primary 3/4 and had a ripping wood coal bed at 8:00, so I think 8-10 hrs is a given.  I burned some higher moisture content wood and that immediately dirtied the glass, hence the purple haze effect in the photos.  I am burning white ash primarily and will be counting the year(s) to when my oak will be ready.  I tried some bio bricks too and wow, those babies burn baby burn and last.  To all here who posted about using wood ashes on a damp cloth to clean the glass, thank you, no need for anything else!


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## firefighterjake (Dec 30, 2010)

Great pics . . . love the purple flames . . . can't say as though I've ever seen purple flames in my Oslo.


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## IH3444 (Dec 31, 2010)

YEA, I love the pictures. Hope Jim post more. Does anyone know about the constrution of this stove? Plate steel thickness? Jotul has no way of contacting them, or a FAQ page. You would think that with a newly introduced stove they would be tooting their horn about it, and dishing out good tidbits of info of it's quality construction. I've seen the Lopi Endeavor up close. It's built like a M1A2 tank. Extremely well constructed, and heavy, heavy duty unit. Jim, could you get us a few pictures of the sides, and possibly the corners, showing the front, and side view.  The front door handle looks stout, and very well positioned. Do any Jotul dealers ever read these pages? Answer questions?


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## begreen (Dec 31, 2010)

The sove looks great in place and burning. Great to hear that it is working well. Are you mostly top loading? If you get a break in the weather, could you measure up the firebox and post the dimensions?

Love the digital camera color balanced flames. Looks like it's sensitive to infrared.


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## branchburner (Dec 31, 2010)

The video mentions loading 20" splits E-W and 18" splits N-S, and the stove weighing over 500 lbs.  - I'd think the firebox must be at least in the 2.5 cu ft range.


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## jrcurto (Dec 31, 2010)

Firebox measures 20" W x 20" D x 15" H.  That tape measure got HOT.  These pics are of the sides and rear, sorry about the peanut oil splatter on the cooktop...thats the price you pay for frying Spicy Panko Blackfish.


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## Todd (Dec 31, 2010)

Thanks for the pictures. That's a might fine looking stove. By my calculations that fire box is 3.2 cu ft! That's a biggin, must be about the same size as the Firelight? Should be able to heat well over that stated 1600 sq ft.


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## IH3444 (Dec 31, 2010)

Va-Va-Va-Voom! That Rangeley is absolutely beautiful! Thanks for the pictures Jim. My calculations come up with a 3.472 cubic foot fire box. By firebox standards that looks to be a large one.  20x20 = 400, x15 = 6000 cubic inches. 6000 divided by 1728 (12 x 12 = 144 x 12 = 1728) equals 3.472 cuft.  Almost a 3.5 box by my math.

Am I missing something as to how fire boxes are calculated? Do we then go to a 95 percent overall. Stating a 5 percent reduction for other components inside the stove?

Thanks very much Jim for the pictures, and postings!

IH3444

p.s. I know, three decimal points.....it's a curse. hehehe

Found this thread on firebox measuring, Jotul 400 woodstove discussion. 

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/50986/P22/#569491

So 3.2cuft is more accurate in accordance with Jotul standards.

Still a Vopper firebox. Yippie!  The Harman states a 2.3 cuft box. Wonder how they measure theirs.


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## gibson (Dec 31, 2010)

Well done.  That's a nice looking stove and hearth.


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## begreen (Dec 31, 2010)

Normally I don't like loading much above the firebrick level. The firebrick height is less than 15" high. Not sure what the folks in Jotul ME would recommend here, but it would be good to know. If loaded to the 9" level it would be a 2 cu ft stove.


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## IH3444 (Dec 31, 2010)

That maybe more in line BeGreen. Loaded to 10" level, would make it a 2.3 cu ft box. More inline with a medium sized stove.


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## jrcurto (Dec 31, 2010)

You guys are right on, we can average the high and low estimates now.  I let the stove cool down overnight in order to clean and get ready for 2011.  Accurate measurements are 21" W x 18"D x 12" H for loading/burning purposes.  So that gives us a 2.6 cu/ft firebox.   I was able to measure from the front opening  and double check through the top.  You can really pack the splits in nice, I am going to try topping a load off with bio brick one cold night since they fit through the baffle plate just right with three side-by-side.


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## branchburner (Dec 31, 2010)

IH3444 said:
			
		

> Am I missing something as to how fire boxes are calculated? Do we then go to a 95 percent overall. Stating a 5 percent reduction for other components inside the stove?
> 
> The Harman states a 2.3 cuft box. Wonder how they measure theirs.



When I did the rough measure on mine it was closer to 3 cu ft. Leaving space at the top must be how they pare it down.

I think that Rangeley is going to be a real hit - what's not to like?


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## OhioBurner© (Dec 31, 2010)

branchburner said:
			
		

> I think that Rangeley is going to be a real hit - what's not to like?



I agree it will probably be a big hit, but I seem to be in the minority about the looks. I'd take the F400, 500, 600 any day over this for looks, but I havent seen it in person yet. I was looking at the F400-600 too, to match my 550 Rockland looks, but the doors are all on the wrong side except the 600 which is a tad bigger than I need. The toploader would be nearly as good with the door issue, but it doesnt match the traditional Jotul look at all.


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## begreen (Dec 31, 2010)

We had the same issue with the Oslo door for our corner install. The F600 clearances were too high for our space, but the Alderlea fit just right. Looks wise I prefer the Alderlea.


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## branchburner (Dec 31, 2010)

â–ºâ–ºOhioBurnerâ—„â—„â„¢ said:
			
		

> I'd take the F400, 500, 600 any day over this for looks...



I agree. I guess I'm comparing it to stoves of its type rather than to the standard cast iron Jotul. I think Jotul is looking to take market share from other stoves, and not compete with its existing line. It still looks good, I think, but less distinctive. In a way, that may appeal to an even wider audience than their existing look... plus: top loader; steel or cast side option; N/S or E/W loading option; decent firebox size per price.


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## begreen (Dec 31, 2010)

You're not alone Ohio. That's why I modded my version of the stove too.


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## IH3444 (Jan 5, 2011)

I have been thinking that Jotul could also offer this stove, steel sided, with 4 each, either 1/4", or 3/8" nuts welded on each corner, of both steel sides. Then you could attach a decorative side heat shield, allowing for additional upwards convection currents, and closer safe spacing from a side wall. Jotul could offer just a simple plain heat shield, or a animal stamping, of which they seem to be fond of in some of their cast designs.  They could bend the top of the shield over 90 degrees, allowing the rear fan to then push the heat out towards the room. Get the heat out where it will do most good. Different side selection to cater to tastes, and needs. 

On the firebox size, do they just measure up to the height of the firebricks? That would be maybe 9 1/2" tall. making it about a 2.1 cu ft box. Either 2.1 or 2.2 works for me, and places it squarely in the medium stove range, with a tad room for stacking up for the night.


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## jrcurto (Jan 5, 2011)

Hey guys,
This stove just keeps on cranking.  My kids have never been so happy with me stoking the coal bed at 0600 and having the downstairs toasty for breakfast while I'm already at work at 0700.  I know the looks are a disqualifier for some and I too wish for the front had some more character but overall this is a great stove.  The firebox is ideal mixing 12-18' splits and cruising between 350- 550 degrees. I cant wait for a seasons supply of dry oak to be ready next year.  I also keep a cast iron pan pre-heated on top every morning so the wife only has to transfer it to the regular stove for breakfast and get things cooking fast.  Speaking of which, she has had to wear less while hanging out near the Rangeley at night which always appreciates the value of a woodburner.
Jim


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## IH3444 (Jan 15, 2011)

Jim, have you been using the top loader feature, and how well does that work? Are the air tubes attached to the baffle plate, or mounted seperately? And one more question, is the bottom plate of the firebox welded to the firebox sides. From the exploded view pdf file supplied by Jotul I can see that the top frameing plate for the top loader door is bolted down to the fire box formed up sides. Looks like that whole sides unit is a single piece of steel formd in a wrap around manufactured design, and if course welded at the mateing seam. Was wondering if the bottom is then welded to that box. This would make for a very sturdy frame, which would resist warping. I can understand the ease of manufacturing the top to bolt down, but if the top frame was a piece of thick 5/16" plate, then welded. Wow, would that add stiffness to the firebox. Looks that the top frameing piece is cast. Is that a correct assumption? This would allow the top loader door assembly to most likely be easier to manufacture, and install. I still have been unable to see the arrangement of the burn tubes. If you pause the stove, would you please take a few pics of the interior and post. And last but not least, how's that baby performing?

Just trying to judge a long term durability and geometeric stability to the firebox design. 

Thanks for being the first test case, and posting your summaries, and pictures. They have been a great asset to all of us. 

IH3444


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## jrcurto (Jan 15, 2011)

Hi
To start, this stove is great, the more I use it the better it performs.  The construction is superior and your questions helped me confirm that.  I will post pics during the next "pause"; I like that term better than "going cold"!  To start, all steel seams are welded, with the beads being heavy, smooth, and continuous.  The bottom plate is welded, the fire box front and sides continuous plate steel, the rear seams meeting at the back corners where the flue collar/rear plate is welded to the main body. The baffle plate framing is welded to the front, sides and rear, this heavy 2" lip supports the cast baffle plate/manifold assemblies. The rear air tubes are bolted up to the manifold and the front air tube is integral with the axle that swings the front half of the baffle/manifold up during top loading. 

I admittedly have been loading much more from the front, since you can play more and I tend to load more while the fire is active.  I have been cooking flank steak and salmon regularly using a grilling basket, the deep firebox accomodates this nicely and after 15 minutes over a hot bed of coals...wow.  Now, when top loading you have to be in control of your fire otherwise smoke will get out.  Following the Jotul instructions is just the primer.  After burning down, I have been opening the primary air, then open the cookplate/ load door leaving the baffle/manifold closed to see what equalization takes place before swinging the manifold open.  I usually give it 30 seconds before swinging the manifold open.  The heat can be a kick in the face and you'll also know if smoke is getting out!  This of course, is mitigated by a proper draft.  I have been packing the stove up to the baffles before bed and always have a bed of coals in the morning.  Dry hardwood, especially dry oak,  is essential for overnight burns.

Speaking of draft, the top loading feature has solved the issue of cold starts in any condition.  By swinging the top load door/cookplate open, you have access to the flue throat and a newspaper knot placed right there and timed with a cold start, Cedar Starter, top-down fire method...we have ignition.  Also the top load gives more access for stovepipe and chimney cleaning and enables me to check the flue damper alignment from time to time.  Overall, the Rangeley is solid, any parts needing replacement are easily accessible and serviceable.  I really cant even imagine being able to overfire this thing and even then, it appears to be bulletproof.

I'll keep you posted, Jim


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## IH3444 (Jan 15, 2011)

Thank you Jim for that lengthy description of starting the Rangely, and answering all my questions about build quality. It sounds like Jotul had done a very good job of think through, and manufacturing design. Taking into consideration the stiffness of the firebox, with the top loader feature. I do remember reading that before top loading to open air fully, but your intimate knowledge of experienced top loading will be indespensible for all owner in the future. And thanks for the starting tip of opening top, and wadded paper at the flue. That was a good idea on your part. Once you get the flue warmed, then the whole starting process is a go. The reason for my in depth inquiries as to the construction of the Rangely is that the dealer I have been dealing with, just wasn't going to get any in due to it being out of their normanl clientel taste. So I have more or less asked them to order one for me, sight unseen. That fish cooking on top sounds wonderful. A picture of that would make many jealous whom don't have such a refined, and elegant cook top. The Jotul with the grooved cook top, looks to be for serious all purpose cooking. Not just pots of stew grub brewing. Thanks for the quick response. With you responses, I know I'm making a wise choice. And I just love the down home appeal of the black stove look. Happy Grilling!

Just had to go and review the pictures again. With the top plate being welded as you stated, and if the top plate is at least 1/4", better if 5/16", and drop form die, with the edges formed down as the pictures look, then that will be an extremely stiff design. Wonder who was the design team engineers for this, and if it was designed here in the states, or over in Norway. 

IH3444

Additional info from dealer is tricking in.....stove firebox is 1/4" thick. The steel sides are bolted onto the firebox, as are the cast sides you have Jim. I requested pictures of the steel sided Rangeley, as well as asking as to where Jotul gets their steel to manufacture the Rangeley. There are some stoves manufacturers getting their steel from China now, and some quality control issues exist. This doesn't show up until the stove has been run for some time. There are some people having problems with their Pacific Energy 5700 stoves with rear wall cracking, and steel from China. Pacific Energy is standing behind every stove I have read about here on Hearth, and replacing them. That's a good company. I'm sure it's just specific batches of steel.


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## lokewolf (Jan 24, 2011)

I've been running my new rangeley for two weeks now...I do like the stove, the Top load is a bit different than that of the VC Encore 1450 NC and that may be the only negative I have.  The looks aren't anything like the enameled stoves you see from Jotul or VC, but I like it the way it is.  With the Encore that was only 4 years old, I would open the damper with one hand and then seperately go open the top and I could load a bunch of wood with my hands and not worry about being singed, scorched or burned without gloves.  The design of the two top loads are quite different...under the top plate on the Jotul is a flipper that pushes the damper door closed and conversely..stops the damper from being left in the open position...a safety feature so you don't forget to close the damper..right.  I don't care for that and the 6-8" gap from the top of the stove to the firebox that the wood has to pass through on its way down.  I'm finding myself loading the stove from the front and loading either E/W or N/S.  E/W takes longer to get fire going and tend to burn a bit slower and N/S is good for rekindling in the morning or loading more wood which would be good for overnight burns.
All in all the stove is really good and I'm getting big coal beds after each burn that last all night.

Sidenote...the BlowerFan kit that Jotul puts out for this stove does not come with the correct bracket hardware.  In the manual the kits are the same part number but the hardware kits that come with..are for the Oslo and Firelight.  Jotul wants me to pay extra $40 for the correct hardware.  I'm telling Jotul to go smoke another one!  Either the stove shop or Jotul is gonna come thru and do the right thing or the Blower Fan is getting returned.

I do have a burn rate issue though.  I have a strong draft issue..my flue is close to 30'-35' of 8in pipe.  I have two story colonial with the flue coming out the side of the house.  the pipe is boxed in for asethetics and ironically to help with the draft.  Even with the primary air control all the way down, the stove will work from 300F to +500F with the thermometer on the right corner of the top plate.  The air control all the way down is whistling and the burns lasting 1.5 to 2 hrs before its all coals.  I've read of two viable options...1) put a key damper in the pipe above the stove and 2) use some Hi Temp Aluminum tape (600F rated) to cover the primary and secondary air ports and poke holes in them to adjust the amount of air coming into the stove.  My Chimney sweep guy recommended using the tape first rather than install the damper.  I'm thinking of doing this.. do you all have some advice for me?

Thanks..Erik


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## begreen (Jan 24, 2011)

Hey JF50, welcome. It's great to have another owner of this stove here. Good tips. Personally I would just add the key damper. It makes it easy to open it up when the temps get milder and the draft is not as strong. If you are testing, I would not block off both ports. Try just a partial block of the primary air first. 

And don't be shy, start another thread with continuing review and pictures of your new baby. 

PS: We like to see them with Fire!


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## lokewolf (Jan 24, 2011)

Also, Jotul suggests placing the thermometer on either of the 4 corners of the silver top lid, but had me put it in the center when I did the break in fires...where should it go?  Center or corners?  Also, do anyone recommend putting a probe thermometer into the dbl wall stove pipe to see what the temps are in there?


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## firefighterjake (Jan 24, 2011)

JotulF50TLguy said:
			
		

> Also, Jotul suggests placing the thermometer on either of the 4 corners of the silver top lid, but had me put it in the center when I did the break in fires...where should it go?  Center or corners?  Also, do anyone recommend putting a probe thermometer into the dbl wall stove pipe to see what the temps are in there?



Don't own this model . . . but do own the Jotul Oslo.

RE: Thermometer placement. If you are a total stove nerd like me you could perhaps get access to an IR thermometer and shoot the center and four corners and see which area consistently is hottest . . . make a mental note of that . . . and put the thermometer there . . . or you could simply put it in one of the corners as Jotul suggests and realize that there may be some temp differences but that it will be OK.

RE: Probe thermometer. Have one and love it . . . in fact I rely on this temp for feedback and adjusting things more than I do the stove top temp.


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## IH3444 (Jan 24, 2011)

Hello and welcome F50 Guy,

I also would like to thank you for your purchase, and review of the F50TL. I was wondering why you replaced your VC Encore so soon? And what made you decide on the Jotul F50TL Rangeley? I personally like it for it's simplictic looks, and that it's a fully welded firebox design. Jacketed to aid with being a convection stove. I also like the steel sides. Look sleek to me. Maybe definetly some heat transfer differences between sheet steel, and cast iron sides. I'm sure someone here knows more about that than me. And almost certain there is some advantage with the cast sides, such as a gentler heat transfer, as also with soapstone.  Did you get the steel sided one, or the cast sided one? I am also thinking along the same lines of installing a key damper when I install mine. I have a strong draft now with my older stove. The damper helps alot. Do you also mine me asking along with which model you have, and as to how much you paided for your Jotul? Pictures would be wonderful if you can post some. I too am not too keen on using the top load feature, but of course will try it out. Who knows, I may enjoy it. 

IH3444


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## lokewolf (Jan 24, 2011)

IH3444 said:
			
		

> Hello and welcome F50 Guy,
> 
> I also would like to thank you for your purchase, and review of the F50TL. I was wondering why you replaced your VC Encore so soon? And what made you decide on the Jotul F50TL Rangeley? I personally like it for it's simplictic looks, and that it's a fully welded firebox design. Jacketed to aid with being a convection stove. I also like the steel sides. Look sleek to me. Maybe definetly some heat transfer differences between sheet steel, and cast iron sides. I'm sure someone here knows more about that than me. And almost certain there is some advantage with the cast sides, such as a gentler heat transfer, as also with soapstone.  Did you get the steel sided one, or the cast sided one? I am also thinking along the same lines of installing a key damper when I install mine. I have a strong draft now with my older stove. The damper helps alot. Do you also mine me asking along with which model you have, and as to how much you paided for your Jotul? Pictures would be wonderful if you can post some. I too am not too keen on using the top load feature, but of course will try it out. Who knows, I may enjoy it.
> 
> IH3444



Re: Encore
Thanks to a grey squirrel finding its way down my flue and shredding the fountain assembly ($500 to replace) and the fact that I've read stories of the same part failing under normal use within 2 years and causing serious overfires.  I would get 3-4 hrs of burn and no coals after 5 hrs.  The tax credit was the extra incentive to go get a stove with more heating capacity and supposedly better air control.  The jet engine sound the encore would make when closing the damper was giving me grey hair and thankfully my dbl wall stove pipe saved me twice from 3 chimney fires.  My house was smoked out once from it.  Probably due to the strong draft!! 

Re: Rangeley
My wife has Rhumatoid Arthritis and bending over or kneeling was something I wanted her to avoid doing.  She really liked the Encore's Top load feature so I heard about this new stove from Jotul and saw the video. I got some confidence from my chimney sweep guy too, regarding Jotuls as well as from a friend whose used them for 40 yrs. Also the family is Norwegian..so it felt natural, speaking from a heritage perspective.  I took the plunge!  I think once I get the draft under control I will be using the TopLoad more...especially when that stove is hot..as opening the front door when hot is like standing next to a volcano.  You get hot fast and its nice Jotul gives you those long stove gloves!!   It has the cast side panels and it cost $2249.  I got 10% off from the sale my shop was having so I paid basically $2k (not including the blowerfan kit).  you can feel the convection (hot air current) coming from the sides and rear and it really helps with moving the warm air around..I will be installing the blowerfan for it though..I need to move that heat around as fast as I can.  The side panels have a heat shield effect because they are offset from the stove..not much but a little.  The radiant heat coming out of the front glass is unreal!  I had a crowded living room last weekend due to all the women flocking to the heat the stove was pumping out  LOL.


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## jrcurto (Jan 24, 2011)

Key Damper!
I am so glad I put in a key damper because this stove needs it.  She really breathes like you say and my draft is off the hook but after establishing a burn I close the key damper and cut the air back to half.  From then on it is secondary burn time. When she is really hot, I can close the primary all the way and its no problem.  I'll tell ya I load from the front more too, the topload is awesome when banking for the overnight.  The stovebox is big and likes to be full of dry oak split down to 3-4" running both NS & EW.  With this latest cold snap, the Rangeley is our best friend.  We had company over for the games on Sunday and they felt the warmth, saw the room temp at 75 deg, tasted the chili on the cooktop, and said...wtf! 
Jim


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## PJF1313 (Jan 25, 2011)

Thanks Jim and JF50guy!  


  My local dealer still doesn't have one in, YET.... but promises me that he has one "coming soon" ;-)

Did any of you have a smoke spill problem when you re-load?  I know the chimney has a lot of an affect on that, but nothing like a steam loco going up a steep grade?


Thank you and PLEASE keep your reviews coming!!

P.J.



PS - as you know, we all LOVE pics of installs  HINT-HINT! ;-)  even crappy cell-phone pics!


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## IH3444 (Jan 25, 2011)

Jotul F50 Guy, 

 What a fantastic deal on the F50 TL with cast sides. Especially in NH where there is no sales tax. Sweeeeeet!  Looking forward to some pictures of that beauty burning, and possibly a secondary burn picture.


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## frankbell (Jan 27, 2011)

Just buying a 50 TL, and I have a question about install. I have an Isokern flue, which is getting a rock veneer as I type. The flue is about 7" - 8" in diameter (not sure exactly). The dealer is telling me that I need a stainless flue liner inserted down the chimney (about 12') which will connect to the chimney connector. Is this right? Can't I just run the chimney connector into the Isokern? 

From all the comments, it sounds like a great stove. Can't wait to get it up and running!


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## begreen (Jan 27, 2011)

Welcome frankbell. This is a question worthy of a separate thread. If your Isokern was installed with a class A pipe, it may not need a liner unless it is fairly short. If it is short, increasing the pipe size is just going to make a bad situation worse. That seems to be the case here. Actually at 12ft. I have concerns about the stove having enough draft to work well. If that is the case can the flue be extended a few feet?

Here's what the manual has to say:

Chimneys shorter than *14 feet (4.27 m)* may not provide
adequate draft. Inadequate draft can result in smoke
spillage when loading the stove, or when the door is open.
Poor draft can also cause back puffing (ignition of gas
build-up inside the firebox) and sluggish performance.
The minimum height does not, in itself, guarantee proper
chimney performance. Optimum draft force should be in
the .05 - .10 in. w.c. range measured by a Magnahelic gauge.
Draft at .07 w.c. is ideal.


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## lokewolf (Jan 28, 2011)

My Rangeley...enjoy


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## BrotherBart (Jan 28, 2011)

A top loader loaded N/S. Gotta love it.


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## IH3444 (Jan 28, 2011)

WOW, what a blaze! Great pictures, thanks. I can also see the rope gasket material under the top plate. Where it bolts down to the firebox. I wonder if other stoves do this also, such as cast iron assemblies. I do have some concern about that seal if it would begin to weep smoke after 5 to 10 years of use. Anyone have any experience with stove tops such as this design with a top plate, either cast or steel plate bolted down with a rope seal?


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## lokewolf (Feb 1, 2011)

so..notice the primary air is all the way down and you see all the flames...  I have a good bed of coals and 4 or so  3"-4" inch logs laid in their.  How much air or draft you think is going in?  If I put in a key damper in the stove pipe above will that allow for a better burn so I don't  have huge beds of coal after each load.  The coal beds are great...but I wasn't expecting to get vast amounts so as to be able to load less wood each time and more frequently.  At least with my previous VC Encore...The coals would burn down to almost nothing and leave dust as its trace.  Still getting used to this stove and working out the kinks in my setup.  Like I said...I need to put in a damper...but also realize I'm a greenhorn at this and only burning since 2007.


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## IH3444 (Feb 1, 2011)

Hello F50TL guy, I was reading on another forum of a fellow who purchased the new Rangeley, and blocked off half of his secondary air with a piece of aluminum tape. I was thinking that after studying the air intake for the secondaries,  if possible attaching a cheap, large door hinge. Then attach a rod to it, bend as needed, and let it just lay under the stove with a small weighted handle. Thereby being able to partly restrict the air flow into the secondaries if I want to. I would never want to completly shut it off. The fellow who posted about blocking off half the flow said it worked very well. He also mentioned that he had a very good flue, with fantastic draft. So this approach might not work for everyone, as a sure fire fix. I'm still going to also install a key damper if able. Any more pictures of that sweet running stove?


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## Todd (Feb 2, 2011)

Looks like a normal good secondary burn going on there. I'd hold off the pipe damper til you learn the stove more. A damper will slow it down even more and leave more coals. Try different air settings, sometimes a slight 1/8" adjustment can make a big difference.


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## jrcurto (Feb 2, 2011)

Hey!  Nice stove
I may play with the secondary restriction as well but at this point in the season and this Biblical weather, I just wanna burn-burn baby.  
Good job with the Rangeley
Jim


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## jrcurto (Feb 27, 2011)

Still burning the Rangeley and it has surely become a close friend of the family.  We are going to miss it when we finally stop regular burns.  I was able to get up on the roof safely to sweep the chimney and found yet another bonus to the top-load feature.  Just open the top and squeeze a small aluminum pan right into the flue opening and let it rest on the baffle.  Two passes with the brush and all I had was a pint of buildup collected.  This is after two straight months of burning wood (20-30% MC) and mixing Eco-bricks in.  Once the secondaries are kicked in, nothing survives enough to build creosote.  I am already stacking cord wood for next season and plan on installing a Jotul insert on the other end of the house.  That should effectively keep the oil company out of my life!


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## PJF1313 (Feb 28, 2011)

Thank you Jim for the update!

   I did, finally, put my "hands on" a Rangely.  It was in their showroom, but not hooked up.
Now, it's up to the "boss"  It's down to 3 stoves; the TL-50; F-500; and the P.E. T-5.

Anyone have a coin ;-)

Thanks again for the reports.

P.J.


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## begreen (Feb 28, 2011)

Thanks for the update Jim. it's good to hear the stove is performing well.


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## ChelseaFC (Mar 22, 2011)

Hey guys.

For months now I have been lurking on this site for information on everything "hearth". Its a great place for all things "hearth" related.

So I bought a Jotul Rangeley TL50 and so far plan on installing it myself in the next couple of months. I am in no rush as the winter is almost done and have plenty of time until next winter.

I have just two questions/comments, for now, for jrcurto:

1. The handle on the stove, does it get hot? I was having issues attaching my handle to the door and contacted Jotul directly. They told me that they are changing their design because in recent tests show the handle gets hot and actually charred the handle and I should forget attaching it anyway. How is your experiance?

2. I see that you placed a damper at the flue exit. That is my plan as well. I was wondering how you lined up the holes to secure the damper to the stove?


I just cant wait for this to be in place.


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## Jotul_Rockland (Mar 22, 2011)

Jotul advertises this as highly efficient 85%+ while it has the older stoves Oslo and Rockland insert at more than 75%. Is there a real increase in efficiency or is this just marketing?


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## lokewolf (Mar 23, 2011)

ChelseaFC said:
			
		

> Hey guys.
> 
> For months now I have been lurking on this site for information on everything "hearth". Its a great place for all things "hearth" related.
> 
> ...



The handle was only for the showroom models as explained to me from Jotul and it wasn't UL Tested/Certified.  As long as you have the pair of gloves that come with the stove...that is all you need.  I do not use the handle anymore.  I like the performance of the stove thus far, but plan on putting in the pipe key damper as well.  you can watch video of how to install and line up the holes on YouTube or searching for it on the WWW.  I have see a video of it recently.

If you have the money...you may be interested in getting the blower fan kit to help move the heat around your area...it helps move the hot air alot faster and heats up the rooms faster.


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## jrcurto (Mar 26, 2011)

Hi,
I'm glad we still have some cool temps at night so I can burn Rangeley some more!  As far as the handle, the one that came with the stove didn't line up correctly with the threaded rod due to the tapped hole in the square stock being off just 1/64th of an inch.  This they replaced for me with a better machined piece. It does get hot but you would have to hold onto it for more than a few seconds.  The up-down style cam of the handle seems to be a little sticky too, maybe they are re-tooling it as well.  If I can get to a bridgeport milling machine, I may turn my own out.  I lined up my flue and stove pipe by measuring and measuring again and then lowering the extended ceiling box down through the roof.  I bought a 36" box in order to use it as an attic shield (chase) and then cut it flush to the roof line.  Also, I would adjust and tighten the clamps that secure the glass and possibly add some thicker gasket material to the clamps on the glass.  I will be replacing the door gasket with some fresh material during the off season to include the clamps.  I love this stove and cannot wait to install an insert in the fireflace on the other end of the house for next winter.  Keep us posted.

Jim


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## summit (Mar 26, 2011)

scuttlebutt is that Jotul is making another rangely that is front load only, no top door, at a lower price point for those who do not wish to have the top load feature.


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## ChelseaFC (Mar 28, 2011)

Thanks all !!

I still can find those videos of lining up the holes for the flue damper. If anyone can help that would be much helpful.

Like I said before, I plan on installing the stove this month and will post pictures of the process somewhere here on the site.

Just cant wait for the first burn in my stove.


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## Frostbit (Mar 29, 2011)

summit said:
			
		

> scuttlebutt is that Jotul is making another rangely that is front load only, no top door, at a lower price point for those who do not wish to have the top load feature.




Ooh. Now that would be tempting...


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## IH3444 (Apr 2, 2011)

Well I finally purchased a Rangeley, and got a very good buy on it. One of the east coast Jotul Reps was at the stove store also, and I spoke with him for quite some time. He confirmed the rumor of the non top loading Rangely, but also stated that the demand for the Rangeley is absolutely "off the hook". I like that phrase, got it from this thread. Thanks! That the manufacturing of the TL50 just can't keep up with demand, and a non-TL is at least a year away. I personally like the option of the TL feature.  He said firebox size is 2.6 cuft, and that the projected non-TL firebox size would be about 3 cuft. He told me that the stove is 100% United States manufactured steel. Very glad for that. That the stove is 3/8" thick steel formed firebox. I could reach in from the top, and by placing my hand to the side feel that there is substantial thickness to the sides. When I get more time I will perform a detailed measurement. He also stated that regular fire bricks are used, due to the fact that they are middle of the road with reflection of heat back into the firebox, to ensure a good complete combustion of the wood, and also the complete burning of the smoke gasses, to minimize not only the emissions, but also to product as clean as a burn as the stove is capable of. The firebrick must also transfer heat to the surrounding steel firebox, to ensure that the stove's BTU output is also as high as they can engineer to. He said Jotul didn't want owners to have to buy speciality bricks from them like some other manufacturers. That a stove owner could just purchase firebricks from local suppliers, and install themselfs as needed. He said that the stove's weight is 575 pounds. Wheeeee, what a stout unit, and does add credibility to the 3/8" plate thickness of the welded firebox. The top cast stainless steel is very thick also, looks to be 1/2",  with multiple thick ribs underneath. I just can't see it warping. Overall the stove is absolutely beautiful, and the build quality is just stellar. It looked to be better built that the Oslo next to it. He said that the Most Senior Research Stove Designer who quit Vermont Casting, and came to work at Jotul is the designer for the Rangely. And what an outstanding job he has done on this unit. It has everything going for it. Designed by a Grand Master Stover with decades of experience with design. Build quality is second to none in the industry. Extreme heavy, battlefield survivability construction. Top of the shelf quality material, and components. It's not a cheapO to purchase, but it appears to be a  lifetime stove. I predict 20 year easy, most likely 30 year plus unit. The rep was telling me they still get calls for parts for Jotuls sold in the 1960's, that are still going strong. It was such a pleasure to speak with him, and gleem some real insight of stove design, and manufacturing from him. What a great position he has being a rep for Jotul.


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## firefighterjake (Apr 4, 2011)

IH3444 said:
			
		

> Well I finally purchased a Rangeley, and got a very good buy on it. One of the east coast Jotul Reps was at the stove store also, and I spoke with him for quite some time. He confirmed the rumor of the non top loading Rangely, but also stated that the demand for the Rangeley is absolutely "off the hook". I like that phrase, got it from this thread. Thanks! That the manufacturing of the TL50 just can't keep up with demand, and a non-TL is at least a year away. I personally like the option of the TL feature.  He said firebox size is 2.6 cuft, and that the projected non-TL firebox size would be about 3 cuft. He told me that the stove is 100% United States manufactured steel. Very glad for that. That the stove is 3/8" thick steel formed firebox. I could reach in from the top, and by placing my hand to the side feel that there is substantial thickness to the sides. When I get more time I will perform a detailed measurement. He also stated that regular fire bricks are used, due to the fact that they are middle of the road with reflection of heat back into the firebox, to ensure a good complete combustion of the wood, and also the complete burning of the smoke gasses, to minimize not only the emissions, but also to product as clean as a burn as the stove is capable of. The firebrick must also transfer heat to the surrounding steel firebox, to ensure that the stove's BTU output is also as high as they can engineer to. He said Jotul didn't want owners to have to buy speciality bricks from them like some other manufacturers. That a stove owner could just purchase firebricks from local suppliers, and install themselfs as needed. He said that the stove's weight is 575 pounds. Wheeeee, what a stout unit, and does add credibility to the 3/8" plate thickness of the welded firebox. The top cast stainless steel is very thick also, looks to be 1/2",  with multiple thick ribs underneath. I just can't see it warping. Overall the stove is absolutely beautiful, and the build quality is just stellar. It looked to be better built that the Oslo next to it. He said that the Most Senior Research Stove Designer who quit Vermont Casting, and came to work at Jotul is the designer for the Rangely. And what an outstanding job he has done on this unit. It has everything going for it. Designed by a Grand Master Stover with decades of experience with design. Build quality is second to none in the industry. Extreme heavy, battlefield survivability construction. Top of the shelf quality material, and components. It's not a cheapO to purchase, but it appears to be a  lifetime stove. I predict 20 year easy, most likely 30 year plus unit. The rep was telling me they still get calls for parts for Jotuls sold in the 1960's, that are still going strong. It was such a pleasure to speak with him, and gleem some real insight of stove design, and manufacturing from him. What a great position he has being a rep for Jotul.



Not that this stove is bad . . . but I would find it hard to believe that one would find the Oslo to not be built as good as this stove . . . the Oslo is near bullet proof when it comes to build quality and reliability.


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## begreen (Apr 4, 2011)

Someone is a proud papa with a new stove.


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## firefighterjake (Apr 4, 2011)

IH3444 said:
			
		

> Well I finally purchased a Rangeley, and got a very good buy on it. One of the east coast Jotul Reps was at the stove store also, and I spoke with him for quite some time. He confirmed the rumor of the non top loading Rangely, but also stated that the demand for the Rangeley is absolutely "off the hook". I like that phrase, got it from this thread. Thanks! That the manufacturing of the TL50 just can't keep up with demand, and a non-TL is at least a year away. I personally like the option of the TL feature.  He said firebox size is 2.6 cuft, and that the projected non-TL firebox size would be about 3 cuft. He told me that the stove is 100% United States manufactured steel. Very glad for that. That the stove is 3/8" thick steel formed firebox. I could reach in from the top, and by placing my hand to the side feel that there is substantial thickness to the sides. When I get more time I will perform a detailed measurement. He also stated that regular fire bricks are used, due to the fact that they are middle of the road with reflection of heat back into the firebox, to ensure a good complete combustion of the wood, and also the complete burning of the smoke gasses, to minimize not only the emissions, but also to product as clean as a burn as the stove is capable of. The firebrick must also transfer heat to the surrounding steel firebox, to ensure that the stove's BTU output is also as high as they can engineer to. He said Jotul didn't want owners to have to buy speciality bricks from them like some other manufacturers. That a stove owner could just purchase firebricks from local suppliers, and install themselfs as needed. He said that the stove's weight is 575 pounds. Wheeeee, what a stout unit, and does add credibility to the 3/8" plate thickness of the welded firebox. The top cast stainless steel is very thick also, looks to be 1/2",  with multiple thick ribs underneath. I just can't see it warping. Overall the stove is absolutely beautiful, and the build quality is just stellar. It looked to be better built that the Oslo next to it. He said that the Most Senior Research Stove Designer who quit Vermont Casting, and came to work at Jotul is the designer for the Rangely. And what an outstanding job he has done on this unit. It has everything going for it. Designed by a Grand Master Stover with decades of experience with design. Build quality is second to none in the industry. Extreme heavy, battlefield survivability construction. Top of the shelf quality material, and components. It's not a cheapO to purchase, but it appears to be a  lifetime stove. I predict 20 year easy, most likely 30 year plus unit. The rep was telling me they still get calls for parts for Jotuls sold in the 1960's, that are still going strong. It was such a pleasure to speak with him, and gleem some real insight of stove design, and manufacturing from him. What a great position he has being a rep for Jotul.



Good review . . . sharp looking stove.


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## IH3444 (Apr 8, 2011)

Not that this stove is bad . . . but I would find it hard to believe that one would find the Oslo to not be built as good as this stove . . . the Oslo is near bullet proof when it comes to build quality and reliability. 

I'm glad to read that. Jotul looks to be a premium stove builder, on all their models. I know that there is risk with purchasing any new model stove. What looks great up front, may turn to being not the long term one had hoped it to be. I do have some resevations with all the doors, and their rope seals. The front, the top, and then the interior door which flips to allow top loading. I hope they don't give me any problems in the future, and especially hope the interior door doesn't warp. A lot can be said for a tried, and true stove as the Oslo is, and it's simplistic design, and minimum mechanical doors. Only time will tell if I made a good decision, or have to replace the Rangeley.


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## firefighterjake (Apr 11, 2011)

IH3444 said:
			
		

> Not that this stove is bad . . . but I would find it hard to believe that one would find the Oslo to not be built as good as this stove . . . the Oslo is near bullet proof when it comes to build quality and reliability.
> 
> I'm glad to read that. Jotul looks to be a premium stove builder, on all their models. I know that there is risk with purchasing any new model stove. What looks great up front, may turn to being not the long term one had hoped it to be. I do have some resevations with all the doors, and their rope seals. The front, the top, and then the interior door which flips to allow top loading. I hope they don't give me any problems in the future, and especially hope the interior door doesn't warp. A lot can be said for a tried, and true stove as the Oslo is, and it's simplistic design, and minimum mechanical doors. Only time will tell if I made a good decision, or have to replace the Rangeley.



From what I've seen and read here . . . Jotul doesn't seem to have many -- if any -- junk stoves in their current or past collection of stoves. I think the T-50 will provide you with years of good service and more importantly . . . heat.


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## masonryheatertogo (Apr 29, 2011)

I really appreciate all the info here about the new Rangeley stoves.  Sounds like they've been really working out well for you.

I'm wondering if any of you would mind checking out the thread I just posted, as I'm considering a Rangeley as one of my options, but just not sure about what the right fit is for our space.

Link to my thread of confusion


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## begreen (Apr 29, 2011)

For 2400 sq ft in Maine I would go up in size to a 3 cu ft stove.


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## Bub381 (May 12, 2011)

Dealer told me The firebox size is around 2.7 cu ft in the Rangeley.


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## summit (May 12, 2011)

Bub381 said:
			
		

> Dealer told me The firebox size is around 2.7 cu ft in the Rangeley.



ya didn't happen to call Rocky's today, did ya?


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## begreen (May 12, 2011)

Bub381 said:
			
		

> Dealer told me The firebox size is around 2.7 cu ft in the Rangeley.



I think it was earlier measured at 2.6 cu ft if you loaded it 3" above the firebrick to 12".


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## Bub381 (May 13, 2011)

I just read that BeGreen, correct! No i didn't call em today but e-mailed em, went back up a few days ago to check the Rangeley again. Liked the Castine and had money down on 1 but they said i can change if need be. Been told a bigger firebox is key to my over night burn i wanted (common sense i guess) so i'm undecided yet again.It sure looks like what we need but hard to say what trouble could show up later with it. Have to take a plunge sometime in life.When they've received their last payment is when my mind will be made up and not until. lol


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## begreen (May 14, 2011)

IH3444 said:
			
		

> Well I finally purchased a Rangeley, and got a very good buy on it....
> That the stove is 3/8" thick steel formed firebox. I could reach in from the top, and by placing my hand to the side feel that there is substantial thickness to the sides. When I get more time I will perform a detailed measurement. He also stated that regular fire bricks are used, due to the fact that they are middle of the road with reflection of heat back into the firebox, to ensure a good complete combustion of the wood, and also the complete burning of the smoke gasses, to minimize not only the emissions, but also to product as clean as a burn as the stove is capable of. The firebrick must also transfer heat to the surrounding steel firebox, to ensure that the stove's BTU output is also as high as they can engineer to. He said Jotul didn't want owners to have to buy speciality bricks from them like some other manufacturers. That a stove owner could just purchase firebricks from local suppliers, and install themselfs as needed. He said that the stove's weight is 575 pounds. Wheeeee, what a stout unit, and does add credibility to the 3/8" plate thickness of the welded firebox.



Correction, the Rangeley is made from 1/4" steel according to the manual. Still nice and stout.


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## Bub381 (May 19, 2011)

Does the flue heat shield come with the stove?Also when loading from the top, the gasket that seals this inner damper or chamber is close to the edge of the opening and i was wondering if it is a problem hooking wood into it and causing troubles.It is a narrow opening as stated 6" i believe.Being more careful would prob take care of this but ya never know.Also jrcurto,did you say you were heating 1000 sq ft with this stove or is that just the area of the 1st floor of a 2 story?


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## Bub381 (Jun 2, 2011)

Just reread manual.it does.


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