# How many Insulate the pellet stove wall thimble with fire rated insulation?



## Don2222 (May 20, 2013)

Hello

I just installed the up an out kit on my garage stove and there is alot of cold air around the wall thimble.

I am trying to tighten up the leaky garage with a new R18.4 Steel garage door.

The thimble around the DT pipe has cold air just wafting in and caulking may stop the breeze but not the cold so much.

*How many of you put nice fire rated insulation around your pellet stove wall thru like the guy in the video?*

This Selkirk at Lowe's comes with some insulation on the inside. Selkirk is a Top name in Pellet Stove Venting and I assume they did test it.

If you listen to the video carefully, The Tech states that the Product is an "Insulated Wall thimble" meaning he did not do that himself. So it must be UL approved also.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_202831-85178-208463_0__?productId=3318268


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## smwilliamson (May 20, 2013)

IT IS DESIGNED TO BE AN AIR SPACE AROUND THE PIPE....DO NOT INSULATE!! You can insulate around the outside of the cylinder.


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## Don2222 (May 20, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> IT IS DESIGNED TO BE AN AIR SPACE AROUND THE PIPE....DO NOT INSULATE!! You can insulate around the outside of the cylinder.


 
Actually when you think of it, adding more air with an air space goes against everything they teach about smothering fires. Air is fuel for the fire! Adding fire rated insulation will help to smother the fire!

Just look at this video you may understand the properties of Rock Wool a little better!
As they say in the video, "Have you ever seen a rock burn?"
Believe me after seeing this I feel much safer having my pellet pipe surrounded by rock wool than an air space! Wow! ! !

http://www.rockwool.co.uk/why rockw...oes it burn-c7-/does it burn-c7- wooden house

Things sometime change for the better! I have to try something like this. The cold from the thimble is too much for me!
Lowe's now sells the new Selkirk wall thimble with insulation on the inside!

*For Wood or pellet Burning -- "UL safety listing - YES" see specs below*

This Selkirk wall thimble at Lowe's comes with some insulation on the inside!
http://www.lowes.com/pd_202831-85178-208463_0__?productId=3318268

Wood or Pellet Burning Wood​BTU (BTU) 0.0​Heating Area (Sq. Feet) 0.0​Hopper Capacity (Cu. Feet) 0.0​Ash Drawer No​Blower No​EPA Approved No​UL Safety Listing Yes​CSA Safety Listing No​ETL Safety Listing No​Brick-Lined Firebox No​Air Wash System No​Fuel Capacity (lbs.) 0.0​Auto Ignition No​Catalytic/Non Catalytic Non Catalytic​Type Freestanding​


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## MikeP (May 20, 2013)

If you watch the video you posted, between 2:10-2:40 he talks about it being an insulated thimble and just like the Lowes one its probably been designed to work with insulation. If the one you have came uninsulated I wouldn't just stuff insulation in it as it wasn't designed and tested to be insulated. I would just seal up the air leaks, probably the biggest culprit to heat loss and call it a day.


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## smwilliamson (May 20, 2013)

Insulated thimble means air insulated unless it specifically stated adding other insulation which to date I have not found any that do.


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## smwilliamson (May 20, 2013)

Don2222 said:


> Why does this Selkirk wall thimble at Lowe's come with insulation? Insulation is inside!
> 
> *For Wood or pellet Burning -- "UL safety listing - YES" see specs below*
> 
> ...


If it comes with it then that is another story...but as the OP I was really talking about liner and not double wall pipes or thimbles. You ought to take a CSIA or NFI class or try and pass the MA Solid Fuel Exam, you can't just start tossing install advice around


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## smwilliamson (May 20, 2013)

Don2222 said:


> Why does this Selkirk wall thimble at Lowe's come with insulation? Insulation is inside!
> 
> *For Wood or pellet Burning -- "UL safety listing - YES" see specs below*
> 
> ...


Ah and another thing..."Listed" is different than "Approved" just because it was listed doesn't mean that it passed and when citing UL, ANSI or ASTM testing standards it's a good idea to cite the actual test. There is a lot of crap out there that home stores sell that is "Listed" but actually failed the test...they tried but it didn't work out for them. In an effort to make something cheaper often the product doesn't perform as it should.


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## Don2222 (May 20, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> If it comes with it then that is another story...but as the OP I was really talking about liner and not double wall pipes or thimbles. You ought to take a CSIA or NFI class or try and pass the MA Solid Fuel Exam, you can't just start tossing install advice around


 
UL approved install advice is what I am talking about and you are not the OP in this thread!

Here is another Insulated Excel Thimble that can be used for Pellet burning

http://compare.ebay.com/like/200864799563?_lwgsi=y&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

*Insulated Wall Thimble for Gas, Pellet or Wood Stove ~ 4 3/4 to 5 inch*


See insulation inside inner ring to seal pellet pipe. Nice Idea 
Click pick below to Enlarge:


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## Don2222 (May 20, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> Ah and another thing..."Listed" is different than "Approved" just because it was listed doesn't mean that it passed and when citing UL, ANSI or ASTM testing standards it's a good idea to cite the actual test. There is a lot of crap out there that home stores sell that is "Listed" but actually failed the test...they tried but it didn't work out for them. In an effort to make something cheaper often the product doesn't perform as it should.


 
This insulated wall thimble is Tested to ULC Standard S-641 and UL103UL-103 Standard
http://www.menards.com/main/p-1936086.htm

However, The pellet stoves and accessories sold in home stores must be UL approved and safe or they cannot be sold! *Selkirk is a TOP name in pellet stove venting!* Maybe you should try it and get more familiar with it!

For the money, I think I would go with the Selkirk.

It looks like Selkirk uses Roxul rock wool insulation. It's temp rating is 2150 Def F and R=22 for 6" wall.


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## Defiant (May 20, 2013)

I don't


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## Don2222 (May 20, 2013)

Hello

Looks like it maybe a good summer project for next year. According to this Menard's wall thimble ad, this insulated wall thimble is designed for all fuels!

*Better Insulating Value = Superior Stove Performance*


Also
This insulated DSP Double Wall Stove Pipe is listed and tested to ULC S641 and UL 103 standards.
http://www.menards.com/main/p-1936086.htm


8" Insulated Wall Thimble


Smokepipe Accessories
Tested to ULC Standard S-641 and UL103UL-103 Standard
All residential fuels, gas, liquid, solid. UL103; ULC S641
An attractive outer black painted surface made of durable aluminized steel to withstand temperatures up to 1200 degrees F of continuous operation
Better Insulating Value = Superior Stove Performance
6" Clearance to Combustibles
Designed with double wall construction and a durable stainless steel inner liner.
Limited Lifetime Warranty
Click pic to enlarge:


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## smwilliamson (May 20, 2013)

listed and tested to ULC S641 and UL 103 standards doesn't mean it passed the test. Usually when it does it will say "Listed and Approved"


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## smwilliamson (May 20, 2013)

Don2222 said:


> This insulated wall thimble is Tested to ULC Standard S-641 and UL103UL-103 Standard
> http://www.menards.com/main/p-1936086.htm
> 
> *However, The pellet stoves and accessories sold in home stores must be UL approved and safe or they cannot be sold! .*



Not true.


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## smwilliamson (May 20, 2013)

Don2222 said:


> UL approved install advice is what I am talking about and you are not the OP in this thread!


yeah sorry, thought I was back on my thread...ooopsie!


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## Don2222 (May 20, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> yeah sorry, thought I was back on my thread...ooopsie!


 
Thanks Scott, I think Selkirk uses Roxul rock wool insulation inside the Wall thru which is good to 2150 Deg F. That is why it works well and keeps the inside of the house warmer. What do you think?


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## smwilliamson (May 20, 2013)

You can only add things to listed appliances and venting components when the manufacturer explicitly tells you it is ok according to the listing. Would adding fire wool to a wall thimble alter the listing?...I do not know but I wouldn't want to be on the hook in the event of a fire for "trying it out". One has to be careful.

People say that the fire brick in a pellet stove firebox isn't a big deal either and you don't need it. I would agree with that statement if the fire brick was sold  "optional", but if it came with the stove and there is no mention of optional fire brick in the owner's manual...then it is mandatory.

Does the wall thimble say that adding fire wool to the fire stop insulating cylinder is optional? If so, knock yourself out. I have had inspectors bust my chops about putting solicone on a wall thimble, are they right? Perhaps.....like I said, if it isn't explicitly stated, opt for not doing it.


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## will711 (May 20, 2013)

Defiant said:


> I don't


Me either


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## smwilliamson (May 20, 2013)

Not a big fan of Selkirk myself.


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## Don2222 (May 20, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> You can only add things to listed appliances and venting components when the manufacturer explicitly tells you it is ok according to the listing. Would adding fire wool to a wall thimble alter the listing?...I do not know but I wouldn't want to be on the hook in the event of a fire for "trying it out". One has to be careful.
> 
> People say that the fire brick in a pellet stove firebox isn't a big deal either and you don't need it. I would agree with that statement if the fire brick was sold "optional", but if it came with the stove and there is no mention of optional fire brick in the owner's manual...then it is mandatory.
> 
> Does the wall thimble say that adding fire wool to the fire stop insulating cylinder is optional? If so, knock yourself out. I have had inspectors bust my chops about putting solicone on a wall thimble, are they right? Perhaps.....like I said, if it isn't explicitly stated, opt for not doing it.


 
This pellet stove wall thimble comes with rock wool insulation from Selkirk so it must be ok.


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## smwilliamson (May 20, 2013)

Don2222 said:


> This wall thru comes with rock wool insulation from Selkirk so it must be ok.


Yes...and it may HAVE to be there too since it came with it.


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## Don2222 (May 20, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> Yes...and it may HAVE to be there too since it came with it.


 

That would stop the cold air coming in and you do need silicone to stop air from coming in.


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## Defiant (May 20, 2013)

Don2222 said:


> This pellet stove wall thimble comes with rock wool insulation


The mice love to make nests with it You did not specify where the insulation went in your early postings


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## smoke show (May 20, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> Not a big fan of Selkirk myself.


Do you have much experience with Direct Temp?


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## DexterDay (May 20, 2013)

Don2222 said:


> Hello
> 
> Looks like it maybe a good summer project for next year. According to this Menard's wall thimble ad, this insulated wall thimble is designed for all fuels!
> 
> ...



Don, that is for an 8" wood stove? So an insulated thimble would benefit slightly. A wood stove must keep the flue gases as warm as possible, for as long as possible. But with wood, many people burn unseasoned wood. Very few people actually let there wood sit the required 2-3 years before burning. 

As for pellet stoves? Pellets have a very low moisture content and can stand a lower flue temp. Insulating a liner on a pellet stove is not as big of a deal as a wood stove. 

As is the thimble on a pellet stove? Silicone the pipe to thimble connection and call it a day.


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## mepellet (May 21, 2013)

smoke show said:


> Do you have much experience with Direct Temp?


Smoke - Still haven't gotten an answer huh?  https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/best-vent-pipe-for-new-install.88665/#post-1151905 I would be interested in his response as well. Scott has mentioned on a few occaisions that he doesn't like Selkirk, but I haven't seen an explanation.  I very well might have missed it though, because I don't read everything on here....   There are quite a few people on here that have the DT line and are very pleased with it.


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## Don2222 (May 21, 2013)

The Selkirk DT Masonry conversion kit for my basement stove made a huge difference in warming and drying out the burn air from the outside. Amazing!


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## Don2222 (May 21, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> Don, that is for an 8" wood stove? So an insulated thimble would benefit slightly. A wood stove must keep the flue gases as warm as possible, for as long as possible. But with wood, many people burn unseasoned wood. Very few people actually let there wood sit the required 2-3 years before burning.
> 
> As for pellet stoves? Pellets have a very low moisture content and can stand a lower flue temp. Insulating a liner on a pellet stove is not as big of a deal as a wood stove.
> 
> As is the thimble on a pellet stove? Silicone the pipe to thimble connection and call it a day.


 
Hi Dexter
That is for wood or pellet
I see your point Dexter in that keeping the flue warmer for wood stoves prevents creasote buildup and is not the case for pellet stoves.

My point is that keeping the flue warmer for pellet stoves keeps the flue cleaner longer because the ashes do not condense so quickly and make it out the exit of the flue pipe.

Also my point for bringing up the wood stove is that the Rock Wool insulation is NFI acceptable for use in insulating the fireplaces for wood stoves. Therefore it is also accepted for wood pellet stoves.

My main point is that the up and out venting I setup in the garage was real drafty and cold around the pipe coming through the thimble. Before I used silicone which does not have enough R value, I wanted to really stop any cold from coming in by using an acceptable fire rated insulation. Since Selkirk uses it for thimbles it must be acceptable. The fire rated, soundproof 5-1/2 inch Roxul I used is R24 which has got to be better than a very cold air space.

Thanks for understanding.


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## Snowy Rivers (May 21, 2013)

I sealed the pipe to the thimble with hi temp silicone and made sure there was nothing combusible around the outside of the jacket that penetrates the wall.

The free air spaces between the pipe and the outer jacket of the thimble affords a lot of insulation.

Snowy


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## Don2222 (May 21, 2013)

Snowy Rivers said:


> I sealed the pipe to the thimble with hi temp silicone and made sure there was nothing combusible around the outside of the jacket that penetrates the wall.
> 
> The free air spaces between the pipe and the outer jacket of the thimble affords a lot of insulation.
> 
> Snowy


 
That's fine Snowy,

The free air space does add more air to feed a fire! Smothering it with fire proof insulation is better!

I used the 2150 Deg F fire rated NFI acceptable fireplace insulation.
A little more work but keeps the room warmer.
See pics > > https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...-pellet-stove-hearth-for-garage.104197/page-3

Just look at this video you may understand the properties of Rock Wool a little better! This is what I am talking about!
As they say in the video, "Have you ever seen a rock burn?"
Believe me after seeing this I feel much safer having my pellet pipe surrounded by rock wool than an air space! Wow! ! !

http://www.rockwool.co.uk/why rockw...oes it burn-c7-/does it burn-c7- wooden house


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## smwilliamson (May 21, 2013)

Don do you realize what you are doing and saying? You cannot under any circumstances stuff a whole wad of insulation into a space which it is not designed for. You could very well (or anyone else you is taking this advice) create a hot spot in the thimble and start a structure fire when you were actually just trying ti stop a draft through a tiny crack...which by many building code enforcement folks is supposed to be left WITHOUT silicone. mods...Please put an end to this thread before someone burns down their house.


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## Don2222 (May 21, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> Don do you realize what you are doing and saying? You cannot under any circumstances stuff a whole wad of insulation into a space which it is not designed for. You could very well (or anyone else you is taking this advice) create a hot spot in the thimble and start a structure fire when you were actually just trying ti stop a draft through a tiny crack...which by many building code enforcement folks is supposed to be left WITHOUT silicone. mods...Please put an end to this thread before someone burns down their house.


What is wrong with using the Selkirk insulated pellet stove wall thimble? You cannot tell people not to use it! Silicone should also be used! Why do you dislike Selkirk? We are still waiting for an answer.

Are you also saying the tech in the video will burn that house down?


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## Defiant (May 21, 2013)

Don2222 said:


> What is wrong with using the Selkirk insulated pellet stove wall thimble? You cannot tell people not to use it! Silicone should also be used! Why do you dislike Selkirk? We are still waiting for an answer.
> 
> Are you also saying the tech in the video will burn that house down?


Hello


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## Lousyweather (May 21, 2013)

someone correct me if I'm wrong, because I don't use the Selkirk product, but unless adding insulation to the annular space between the pipe and the thimble is expressly mentioned (as allowed) in the manufacturer's instructions for that thimble, then it is not allowed. Adding insulation can cause a buildup of heat where it isn't intended, and possibly cause a very dangerous situation. We don't use the Selkirk product, so I cannot comment from experience, but the licenses I hold basically prohibit me doing things that are not expressly allowed. I guess the negligible gain you *might* get in insulating the thimble really isn't worth the more likely *risk* you take in doing so.....

agreed- close the thread, lock it, delete it.....just like the Ash Can when the libs trip over things, like as of late......


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## Don2222 (May 21, 2013)

I agree it may take time to change things for these new thimbles to be accepted. Only time will tell!


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## smwilliamson (May 21, 2013)

There is nothing wrong with using insulation when it is part of the listed product...but you or anyone else cannot and should not add insulation to a thimble such as the dude in the vid. He is wrong and not just with doing that but a few other things I noticed too. Not to mention he's installing a real piece of crap stove too. Perhaps the biggest no no.


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## Don2222 (May 21, 2013)

What is wrong with Lennox Whitfield? Whitfield stoves have been around for a long time.


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## smwilliamson (May 21, 2013)

That is not a Lennox Whitfield it is a Lennox Montage. Work on one sometime and you'll know what I speak.


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## DexterDay (May 21, 2013)

Selkirk makes an insulated thimble. Yes Don. 

But they don't make one for Selkirk DT? Which is what everyone is getting at. You took a UL listed part (with NO Insulation) and added insulation. Thereby throwing its UL out the window. 

If it came with Insulation? Fine. But you showed pics of you cutting a whole sheet. Therefore you added it to a thimbke that did not come with it? No.


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## Defiant (May 21, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> thimbke


Yea Mad Dog, the old thimbke comes into play again!!~!


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## will711 (May 21, 2013)

Defiant said:


> Yea Mad Dog, the old thimbke comes into play again!!~!


I think Dex is an all Ohio state spelling Bee Champ or he's like me fingers that dont always work well on a keey board


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## Delta-T (May 21, 2013)

"thimbke" is thimble in Russian.....at least I'm pretty sure.


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## DexterDay (May 21, 2013)

My damn phone has to small of a key board! Was getting the Samsung Note 2 last week and decided to wait till the 31st for the new S4. Its only 1/4" smaller than Note 2 with added features  

10 days and counting. Its gonna make me look so much smarter!! Prob not


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## will711 (May 21, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> Its gonna make me look so much smarter!! Prob not


That is correct


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## will711 (May 21, 2013)

Which phone is she using?  You did see the phone


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## smwilliamson (May 21, 2013)

LG Razor. I think she is talking to Don, asking him if he wants to come over but he says he's too busy insulating his thimble.


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## Don2222 (May 21, 2013)

Hi Dexter

Yes, the Selkirk DT does not have an insulated thimble at this time. I hope they will have one soon. I would never advise anyone to stuff their thimble or install a thimble that is not factory original. Since it is possible to purchase an insulated thimble, it may be an idea in a real cold region.
In the meantime, Since my garage is so cold, I am trying some fire proof insulation in the DT thimble because it runs cooler within the 3rd wall and the insulation is outside the 3rd wall. I am doing a test and watching it closely here and will let you know the results.

However if you saw this video you may understand the properties of Rock Wool a little better!
As they say in the video, "Have you ever seen a rock burn?"
Believe me after seeing this I feel much safer having my pellet pipe surrounded by rock wool than an air space! Wow! ! !

http://www.rockwool.co.uk/why rockwool-c7-/fire resistance/does it burn-c7-/does it burn-c7- wooden house


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## Defiant (May 21, 2013)

Don you do know that Dexter is happily married


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## bonesy (May 22, 2013)

Don2222 said:


> Believe me after seeing this I feel much safer having my pellet pipe surrounded by rock wool than an air space! Wow! ! !


 
I am by no means an installer, mechanic, or anything else related to a pellet stove other than an end user. I also did NOT stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. But I think you are still missing the point. It's not about the fact that the insulation cannot burn. It's about the fact that now the insulation is going to transfer heat to the thimble, and in turn the thimble will now transfer it to the wood of the home, thus causing a fire hazard. I think this is what everyone has taken issue with. That particular thimble that does not come from the factory with the insulation and may be designed with different material, thickness, etc. and may not be approved for that heat transfer as well. Unless you are a metallurgist or work for the company, you will never know. Until your shed burns down.


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## silverfox103 (May 22, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> Don do you realize what you are doing and saying? You cannot under any circumstances stuff a whole wad of insulation into a space which it is not designed for. You could very well (or anyone else you is taking this advice) create a hot spot in the thimble and start a structure fire when you were actually just trying ti stop a draft through a tiny crack...which by many building code enforcement folks is supposed to be left WITHOUT silicone. mods...Please put an end to this thread before someone burns down their house.


 
This guy Don, is a hack and he is dangerous with no concern for safety. I can't imagine him showing up to service someones stove. It's pretty obvious that he is the "laughing stock" on this forum. Just read his posts



jmbones said:


> It's not about the fact that the insulation cannot burn. It's about the fact that now the insulation is going to transfer heat to the thimble, and in turn the thimble will now transfer it to the wood of the home, thus causing a fire hazard. I think this is what everyone has taken issue with. That particular thimble that does not come from the factory with the insulation and may be designed with different material, thickness, etc. and may not be approved for that heat transfer as well. Unless you are a metallurgist or work for the company, you will never know. Until your shed burns down.


 
He (Don) is as dumb as rocks.  He doesn't have to prove it anymore, everyone knows.


Here is my Don2222 favorite:



Don2222 said:


> Hello
> 
> My friend gave me a great idea! This was his 1st draft! See pic below:
> 
> ...


 

Tom C.[/quote]


He is so dangerous, he should not be allowed to post, only view.

Tom


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## smwilliamson (May 22, 2013)

If you go to seminars and classes, such as the one I just went to sponsored by Olympia Chimney Supply, there is often talk about technicians, sweeps, mechanics etc.. that run experiments in customer's homes. Kinda like insulating the air space in a thimble. Will doing this actually burn down someone's home? I don't know for sure, there are many variables...however; as professionals, we are bound by ethics to not "experiment" at a customer's expense. Filling a gap to seal out outside air may seem like logical thing to do. It can be disastrous under the right circumstances if the products you are using were not tested or designed with other materials, such as rock wool insulation etc...



> Just look at this video you may understand the properties of Rock Wool a little better! This is what I am talking about!
> As they say in the video, "Have you ever seen a rock burn?"
> Believe me after seeing this I feel much safer having my pellet pipe surrounded by rock wool than an air space! Wow! ! !


 
While I haven't ever seen rock burn, though it can be melted under enough heat or pressure, I have seen rock get hot enough to actually catch wood on fire if the wood touches it. It's not about the insulation burning...it's about the transfer of heat from one surface to another. When you insulate something such as the annular space around the thimble you are in fact consolidating the heat from the pipe. Temps that may be 250 on the surface could climb to 400 or more and since there is no vent to allow the heat to escape it just builds...over time the surrounding area starts to pyrolically break down until such a time things go very wrong. If one had a chimney fire in the vent and temps rose up over 1000, the insulated area could climb well over 1500 which is over the temp the pipe is actually designed to withstand and then the whole vent and or thimble starts to fall apart within the wall.

Don, if you are going to be doing installations, you ought to invest in some formal education aside from what you can troll up from the internet. It's no coincidence that more than 50% of the stoves I go to service are installed wrong and therefore need to be reinstalled properly before I can work on them.

NH doesn't require any licensure for solid fuel professionals...but, just because the State doesn't say so, that in itself is not a license for folks to go out and install whatever they want however they want. It is also not a coincidence that when a home burns to the ground in New England from a stove...NH homes seem to be more likely to lead the front pages of the papers.

I'm just coming at you from a competitors standpoint Don, but as a licensed and trained professional:

MA Solid Fuel Construction Supervisor #105742
NFI Pellet Specialist: #164362

What are your credentials?


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## Lousyweather (May 22, 2013)

Delta-T said:


> "thimbke" is thimble in Russian.....at least I'm pretty sure.


 
Наперсток


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## Lousyweather (May 22, 2013)

will711 said:


> Which phone is she using? You did see the phone
> View attachment 102729


 
dangit! I TOLD my girlfriend to stop talking on the phone and having pics taken!

(I wish)


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## Delta-T (May 22, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> Наперсток


is this a wall thimbke or a sewing thimbke?


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## Lousyweather (May 22, 2013)

Delta-T said:


> is this a wall thimbke or a sewing thimbke?


 
sewing, of course.....isn't this the needlepoint forum?


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## Don2222 (May 22, 2013)

I agree Scott and I am a Degreed Eng and Authorized dealer and service center with manufactures support and training. I also like to bring up these new products to see if they are accepted by the pros. If not I do not use them period.
Thanks


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## SmokeyTheBear (May 22, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> sewing, of course.....isn't this the needlepoint forum?


 
Likely, Hardanger even.


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## Lousyweather (May 22, 2013)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> Likely, Hardanger even.


or even crewel


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## Delta-T (May 22, 2013)

you guys and your needlepoint "inside jokes".


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## mepellet (May 22, 2013)

Don2222 said:


> What is wrong with using the Selkirk insulated pellet stove wall thimble? You cannot tell people not to use it! Silicone should also be used! Why do you dislike Selkirk? We are still waiting for an answer.
> 
> Are you also saying the tech in the video will burn that house down?


Another mention of Selkirk being undesirable. I'd really like to know what he doesn't like about their products. Maybe he has explained it here before but I haven't seen it. https://www.hearth.com/talk/index.php?posts/1452462


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## Lousyweather (May 23, 2013)

cant speak for Scoot at all, but when in the biz, you tend to run into most of the brands available, use them, and you find that you prefer one brand over another after actually using them....used to use Simpson until I tried ICC.......its kinda like if you always eat hamburger you cant appreciate lobster......(till you try it)


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## mepellet (May 23, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> cant speak for Scoot at all, but when in the biz, you tend to run into most of the brands available, use them, and you find that you prefer one brand over another after actually using them....used to use Simpson until I tried ICC.......its kinda like if you always eat hamburger you cant appreciate lobster......(till you try it)


 
I totally understand but for what reason does he not like Selkirk?  There has to be some reason.  Just like there must be a reason why you like ICC over Simpson.


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## Lousyweather (May 23, 2013)

mepellet said:


> I totally understand but for what reason does he not like Selkirk? There has to be some reason. Just like there must be a reason why you like ICC over Simpson.


 
ICC vs Simpson? Well, simple.....less leakage = less callbacks = happier customer, so ICC > Simpson, IMHO

it will all come down to opinion.


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## maple1 (May 23, 2013)

I need to visit the Pellet Mill more often - I've been missing out on some good reading.


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## mepellet (May 23, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> ICC vs Simpson? Well, simple.....less leakage = less callbacks = happier customer, so ICC > Simpson, IMHO
> 
> it will all come down to opinion.


Thanks for the information. Now, I wonder what is so bad about Selkirk? I like my Dt setup.


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## Lousyweather (May 23, 2013)

maple1 said:


> I need to visit the Pellet Mill more often - I've been missing out on some good reading.


 
no you havent


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## Don2222 (May 23, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> ICC vs Simpson? Well, simple.....less leakage = less callbacks = happier customer, so ICC > Simpson, IMHO
> 
> it will all come down to opinion.


 
Good info, The DT system uses a 4" Diameter T and 4" piping up to a 4" to 3" reducer to the stove adapter. 4" Diam venting does not have as much pressure on the seams as 3" Diam venting so leakage is not as much of an issue. However they must not leak and be sealed appropriately! ! !


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## smoke show (May 23, 2013)

Here we go...


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## maple1 (May 23, 2013)

Lousyweather said:


> no you havent


 
Umm - entertaining, then?


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## SmokeyTheBear (May 23, 2013)

maple1 said:


> Umm - entertaining, then?


 
Sometimes.


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