# Stove Placement in Barn-Need Thoughts.



## Srbenda (Oct 5, 2013)

I am slowly upgrading my very old barn, and got the new floor put in today.  
It's not huge, the enclose area will measure 30x12, with about 10' to the roof peak. 
The stove is a Fisher Mama Bear, so I think I will have plenty of heat for the space. 

I have several questions:

1) The barn is all wood, the floor is all wood, what type of base and surrounding shielding do I need to protect the barn?

2) Where should I place the stove, I am planning on it being in the center of the space as much as possible, as that seems to be the most effective way to heat the space, am I wrong?

Pics of the space as it is...


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## 930dreamer (Oct 5, 2013)

As far as placement of the stove goes, where can you best run the piping?


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## BrotherBart (Oct 5, 2013)

Looks like stall space. What are you gonna be using it for? That will have a lot to do with placement.


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## Srbenda (Oct 6, 2013)

BrotherBart said:


> Looks like stall space. What are you gonna be using it for? That will have a lot to do with placement.



Yes, this is old stall space I am converting. As far as the piping, really, anywhere works. It's just a matter of how much pipe is inside the barn, versus above the roof. 
From an install perspective, the closer to the edge of the roof will make it easier to install.


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## coaly (Oct 6, 2013)

In my wood floor cabin, I simply laid a piece of 24 ga galvanized sheet metal on the floor, 1/2" cement board, then covered with bricks. I add a bottom shield which makes the most difference in radiation to the floor below. The floor stays cold.
If the floor pad is going to get bumped, I'd use hollow bricks on edge with threaded rod through the outer courses to keep tight. I put my chimney in the center, and without attaching to floor, I can swing the pad to face the stove different ways to move it about 4 feet if future plans change.




Here's the same stove in my kitchen that shows the bottom shield better. It's clamped on and kept the tile floor cold in the center. It was hot enough to be uncomfortable to hold my hand on the tile in the center without it. (1/2 inch rockboard with the same 24 ga metal under tile)



Notice I put an extra brick under each leg to make it more comfortable loading and cooking things on top.


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## Srbenda (Oct 7, 2013)

The bottom shield looks like a good idea. 
Where does one get this product, any fireplace store?


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## coaly (Oct 7, 2013)

I made it from a piece of 24 ga. sheet metal from a local sheet metal shop. It happened to be galvanized left over from another project.  Anywhere that makes ductwork should sell you a small piece. You can fold the edges over for strength, or bend it like I did on a 90* angle like on prefabricated shelving. If you have an old metal shelf that you can do without one of the shelves, you can cut it down to fit between the legs. About 1 inch away makes a huge difference since air is the best insulation. It simply stops the radiation from going straight down.
  The later UL listed stoves had them rear and bottom.


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## Srbenda (Oct 7, 2013)

Ahah, that's easy enough.  I thought it was actually some type of shield. I will post pics as I make progress.


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## coaly (Oct 7, 2013)

The prints for the factory shield called for 20 gauge cold rolled steel for a better finish. Goldilocks had a double shield on the back that reduced clearance to combustable wall down to 12".


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## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Oct 7, 2013)

Closest nearest the center that makes most sense, plan it out now....


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## Srbenda (Oct 13, 2013)

Got a little closer on the project today, by moving the stove out to the barn. Fortunately, I didn't have to do much heavy lifting. 





This is about centered in the space, but I am a bit concerned about how far it will jut into the room. I am thinking about putting it in more of a corner position, which will not improve the heat, but will certainly make the space more useable. The opening to the left will become a window, and the opening to the right will become a door.


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## 930dreamer (Oct 13, 2013)

That's a good looking Fisher.


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## begreen (Oct 13, 2013)

Mind the clearance requirements to combustibles of 36" in all directions. This can be reduced to 12" with a proper NFPA 211 wall shield.


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## Srbenda (Oct 13, 2013)

begreen said:


> Mind the clearance requirements to combustibles of 36" in all directions. This can be reduced to 12" with a proper NFPA 211 wall shield.



I am going to need some shielding.  36" is just too much.


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## begreen (Oct 13, 2013)

Can be done with a little advance planning.


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## oldspark (Oct 16, 2013)

Yea having the stove in the center is nice but its in the way, put the stove in the corner that you can take advantage of the prevailing winds in the winter so you have some natural air flow to the rest of the room. I assume the building is not totaly air tight.
That will be a nice work area in the winter.


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## Srbenda (Oct 17, 2013)

the building will have more holes in it than a cheese grater.


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## Srbenda (Nov 12, 2013)

Making progress, one of the stall doors now converted into floor to ceiling windows.


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## Srbenda (Nov 24, 2013)

Got the barn all enclosed now, to begin the stove work.  
Concrete board for backers, this should reduce my clearance to 24" or less.


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## Srbenda (Nov 28, 2013)

Despite the opinions of SWMBO, I placed the stove in the center of the barn, not in the corner.  While this divides the barn into two spaces, it should help for more even heat distribution, and a much easier install for me. 

Placing the metal studs on the floor and wall to create my non-combustible gap. 






The first concrete board mounted to the studs.  I need two more for underlay support, since the stove is about 400 pounds.  After I get those laid down, then we'll add the base concrete board for the hearth and figure what I will cover it with.


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## begreen (Nov 28, 2013)

Be sure to allow for a 1" air gap at the bottom and top of the cement board wall shield. That is a critical part of an NFPA211 wall shield. If the wall shield is not ventilated the clearances can't be reduced. Will there also be more studs on the floor for the full width of the required hearth?


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## Srbenda (Nov 28, 2013)

It's tough to see, but there is a gap at the top, and at the bottom. Additionally, the underside of the hearth will "vent" to the back of the wall shield, which should create a nice airflow. 

AND- On the back of the wall shield there is a nice gap straight down to the dirt, so, plenty of cold air flow in the winter.


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## Srbenda (Nov 30, 2013)

With only 1 DuroRock board on top of the metal studs, it seemed to have too much flex and give.  So I added a second, which seems much firmer.  It will be in the mid-40's tomorrow, so I hope to get the bottom of the hearth mortared and slate tiled.


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## begreen (Nov 30, 2013)

Durock isn't meant for no backing and you don't want any flexing if tiled. Normally the durock would be ontop of a very rigid surface like 5/4 plywood. To support the stove I would put a sheet of steel on top of the metal studs and pop rivet it to the studs so that it's drum tight.


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## Srbenda (Dec 1, 2013)

Hmmmm.

I have neither a sheet of steel or pop rivets. 
I didn't want to use plywood because of the heat. 

It seems pretty firm now, even when I stand on it.


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## begreen (Dec 1, 2013)

Both should be available at the same place the Durock came from. In the least, put a metal plate under each foot of the stove.


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## Bootstrap (Dec 5, 2013)

In my 16'x24' "barn" I found a convenient corner to install the stove. Most imporantly was blockup up all gaps in doors and such to stop the draft. Making my barn as airtight as possible has made the whole thing much warmer.


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## Srbenda (Dec 17, 2013)

OK, Hearth is installed, time to run some pipe. I have included my very fancy, architectural drawing of what I need from a pipe perspective.  I got a quote from a local stove store, at $800, and of course, I couldn't tell them I was hooking it up to a Fisher. 

Here's the image.  I am doing a basic cathedral mount, straight up between 2 trusses, and through the plywood/ shingle roof.  It 's all open and accessible, so it should be "easy". 

Can you guys help with what parts I need to make this work?

I am looking at the DynamiteBuys website for parts, as they seem MUCH cheaper.


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## begreen (Dec 17, 2013)

Call Sean at dynamite buys and arrange to send him your drawing. He will set you up depending on the brand pipe chosen. Be aware of clearances. Single-wall connector is 18" from any combustible, double-wall is 6". I'm not sure how close that truss base is or the outside wall.


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## Srbenda (Dec 17, 2013)

I plan to do single wall up to the truss, since it's a long section, and the cost savings associated with single wall.  Then I will move to double wall, as I have a 24" span in between the trusses.  Then to a cathedral mount on the ceiling, and through the roof.  (somehow).


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## begreen (Dec 17, 2013)

You don't mix the two. For that short run you might as make it double-wall all the way with those clearances. Add a telescopic section just before the elbow to make it easier to do the final adjustments.


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## Srbenda (Dec 17, 2013)

Hmm, I read not to mix manufacturers, but not stovepipe types either?


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## Srbenda (Dec 21, 2013)

After getting a couple quotes on double-wall pipe, I might be re-evaluating that option.  My best quote has been $769, and that's a lot of coin to hook up in an old barn with a $100 stove.  I need to evaluate what I would need to do for a single wall pipe install.


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## oldspark (Dec 21, 2013)

Couldn't you just go to the truss with single wall and then class A from the trusses on up, Menards has sales on their Class A and it ends up being very reasonable.
But you make a good point about the cost of the chimney vs the stove, a lot of people have incurred a severe case of sticker shock going through the process.


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## Srbenda (Dec 21, 2013)

Thats, what I am looking at, going single wall, up past the trusses, and shielding the trusses.  I have 24" clear between the trusses, so I have 9" spacing on single wall.  I might be able to shield that appropriately. We don't have Menards, but we have Lowe's and HD, and I could go all double-wall with them for about $400, including cap, flashing, and pipe.  If I go all single wall to the roof, with an insulated pass through, then I could probably get it below $300.


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## oldspark (Dec 21, 2013)

Sorry, I might have misunderstood, when you say double wall are you talking stove pipe or class A pipe?


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## Srbenda (Dec 21, 2013)

This stuff. 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_37621-85178...Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&storeId=10151


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## oldspark (Dec 21, 2013)

That's class A.
Forget the cost for the sake of the discussion.
Go to the trusses with single wall, then a ceiling  box to change over to class A, then all the way through the roof.
Is that what you are doing, sounds like you want to go through the trusses with single wall.


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## oldspark (Dec 21, 2013)

That's what I did in my shop and it worked well.


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## Srbenda (Dec 21, 2013)

My trusses are open, no ceiling.  Nothing but air above and below the trusses.  (until you get to the roof) 

Here's the closest thing I can find on Lowes for a ceiling pass-through.  Not really a box though. 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_35015-85178...ntURL=?Ns=p_product_price|0&page=3&facetInfo=


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## oldspark (Dec 21, 2013)

I had to make a frame for my ceiling box with some 2X4's between the rafters, was not a problem at all.


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## Srbenda (Dec 21, 2013)

This is what I need.  I can mount this between the trusses, and go straight up through to the roof. 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent-DuraPlus-6-in-Flat-Ceiling-Support-Box-6DP-FCS/204719860#


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## oldspark (Dec 21, 2013)

Yea that type of box more or less is what I used.


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## begreen (Dec 21, 2013)

Slow down a bit, your plan so far is not good because you lack understanding of your options and requirements. Have you downloaded a good chimney installation guide? If not, get one from M&G's or Selkirk's website for the pipe. Once your options are clear this will be straight forward.

First thing is terminology. There is a difference between double-wall class A, high-temp pipe and double-wall connector pipe that is used on the interior. You gave an example of Supervent double-wall class A pipe - http://www.lowes.com/pd_37621-85178...Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&storeId=10151.

This is double-wall interior pipe. Use this pipe to connect between the support box and the stove. It has a clearance requirement of 6" horiz. so you won't need to shield the trusses. 
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

I would install a cathedral ceiling support box kit to make this work. Here is the Lowes item (though I note that Sears sells it for $130).
http://www.lowes.com/pd_271995-8517..._product_qty_sales_dollar|1&page=2&facetInfo=

http://www.sears.ca/product/superve...ral-ceiling-support-kit/642-000862334-JM6CCSK


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## begreen (Dec 21, 2013)

Here is what the install would look like. Make sure that the chimney is at least 3ft above the roof exit and at least 2 ft taller than the roof when measured 10 ft away.


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## oldspark (Dec 21, 2013)

With no ceiling I guess it makes more sense to go up to the ceiling with the stove pipe, I am installing a ceiling in my shop so I stopped at the truss with the stove pipe.


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## Srbenda (Dec 26, 2013)

begreen said:


> Slow down a bit, your plan so far is not good because you lack understanding of your options and requirements.



Yeah, you hit that nail on the head. I am by no means a chimney expert. 

No, I have no idea what I am talking about. But...you guys are the experts. 

Either Home Deport or Lowe's should be able to provide what I need. If I can post some more photos of the install area, will that help you guys direct me to the right parts and pipes I need?


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## Srbenda (May 5, 2014)

Getting some progress finally.


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## valley ranch (May 5, 2014)

Srbenda, Nice barn! Here is what I did at the Nevada ranch to reduce the distance from the wall. Air travels under the concrete boarded stand up and up the wall. The standoffs are 1/2" conduit. the wall stays the same temp as the room. The insurance company was impressed. The stove pipe is over 18" from the wall. 

This type of think will let you be closer to the wall.

Again, Nice barn.

Richard


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## Srbenda (May 6, 2014)

We are both operating on the same principle.  I used metal studs for underneath and against the wall for the air clearance. Additionally, I have a slot between the barn floor and the wall for additional updraft between the hearth and wall. Now just I need to figure out the stove pipe problem.


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