# tundra/heatmax owners



## HatCityIAFF (Aug 20, 2014)

hey guys..im looking to see your day to day operation and how you go about loading the furnace..i've been running an insert for the past two years, and thinking about the drolet for better heat upstairs and all around..i mainly want to get rid of babysitting the air intake while the insert gets to cruising temp, because most nights its my wife and she doesnt enjoy adjusting the stove for 30 min..from what ive gathered from drolets manuel, load the furnace on a hot bed of coals, keep the air open till it fully catches, then close that, and the damper/thermostat takes it from there for the rest of the burn?? Ive looked into kuumas, and they are way out of my budget because i will be installing 22-25ft of exterior class a pipe..


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## bedrock1 (Feb 5, 2015)

HatCityIAFF said:


> hey guys..im looking to see your day to day operation and how you go about loading the furnace..i've been running an insert for the past two years, and thinking about the drolet for better heat upstairs and all around..i mainly want to get rid of babysitting the air intake while the insert gets to cruising temp, because most nights its my wife and she doesnt enjoy adjusting the stove for 30 min..from what ive gathered from drolets manuel, load the furnace on a hot bed of coals, keep the air open till it fully catches, then close that, and the damper/thermostat takes it from there for the rest of the burn?? Ive looked into kuumas, and they are way out of my budget because i will be installing 22-25ft of exterior class a pipe..


hi i have drolet im not happy with it at all it wont heat my 1000sq foot house and i have a lot of wood gone already


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## sloeffle (Feb 5, 2015)

I have a Caddy which the Tundra/Heatmax/Droilet's big brother. I have no issues heating 2200 sq ft. Their are lots of happy Caddy owners on this forum. The biggest key is having dry wood and a proper install.


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## laynes69 (Feb 5, 2015)

I also have a Caddy which the Tundra is modeled after. We are heating a 2500 sqft victorian home plus a 1200 sqft basement. We've burned around 3 cords since the end of September. It's 11° now and 75° inside.

Bedrock, what size and type of chimney do you have, and how long has your wood been cut, split and stacked?  If your home doesn't have ductwork, it could be difficult to spread the heat. 1000 sqft is nothing, especially for a furnace with a 3.5 cuft firebox.


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## bedrock1 (Feb 5, 2015)

hi i have a 7 '' chimney , im  burning last years cut  birch i have duct work all over my house . i put the furnace in late oct this year i have 8 cord of wood i have about 1 1/2 cord left and the winter is not over.i find the blower do not stay in no more then 5 min  only if i keep the drafter open , that is why i guess im burning a lot of wood, if the drafter closes the blower will shut off .


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## laynes69 (Feb 5, 2015)

Do you have a thermostat hooked to the unit? Explain your daily loading, ex. load, open damper, wait till ? then reload, etc. How tall is your chimney, and how many elbows in the flue? And finally, any pics? I couldn't burn that much wood if I tried.


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## bedrock1 (Feb 5, 2015)

hi yes i have a thermostat hooked up. i fill it up with wood with drafter open , the blower will come on for a while then cut out. but if the drafter closes the blower will go out , the blower is not long enought  to heat the house, my chimney is about 15 feet . how do i send pictures im new to this site. i was wondering if the thermodisc that cuts the blower in might be faulty. i call the sbi the make the furnace they told me i might be losing to much static pressure to put in dampers i did that yesterday still same thing.


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## laynes69 (Feb 5, 2015)

About 15 feet, does that mean it's less? That's pretty short, especially if there's any elbows in the system. When your talking about the wood usage, is it full cords? Have you tested draft? These furnace's require good draft, hopefully your not running a barometric damper. Using a mobile device to upload pictures is pretty easy. Look for the picture icon and find your photos and upload.


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## bedrock1 (Feb 5, 2015)

hi my chimney is not to short its over my peak . im not using a barometric damper , and its getting good draft. my blower seem like it blow air very fast compare to my fathers new max. i should be geting lots of heat and not burning much wood. i got 5-6 full cord gone already


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## laynes69 (Feb 5, 2015)

I'll let someone with a Tundra chime in, I've heard they changed snapdisc in them. You can adjust the blower speed to a lower speed. You haven't said whether your furnace keeps up with heating demand or not, how often do you load it? Have you cleaned the heat exchanger? If all things check out, chimney, wood, etc. then your home is using alot of energy and your furnace is too small. Do you have a backdraft damper to isolate the woodfurnace from the central furnace?


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## bedrock1 (Feb 5, 2015)

hi i can change the blower speeds with a change of a wire i tryed all of thet, what u mean about changed snapdisc in them. the furnace will not keep up with heat demand ,i load it a feer bet because u have to have the drafter open all the time of the blower will go out. i clean exchanger wood is dry . guy on here is heating 2500 sq feet homes mine is only 1000sq. yes i have a backdraft damper on the oil furnace.


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## laynes69 (Feb 5, 2015)

I don't know, from the sounds of it your home needs attention. If the furnace can't keep up with heating demand doesn't make it a bad furnace, just the wrong tool for the job. I would have an energy audit done on the home. I will add one more thing running with an open damper sends alot of heat out the chimney, and will burn more wood. Did you have the draft tested with a manometer?


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## bedrock1 (Feb 5, 2015)

the furnace can heat the house if i leave the drafter open so the blower will stay on. where can i get a manometer


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## brenndatomu (Feb 5, 2015)

laynes69 said:


> Did you have the draft tested with a manometer?


+1 on that. Without a meter reading you don't know...high or low. Can't tell without a meter reading. High or low, either one will cause you problems. Sounds like the snapdisc could be faulty, need to get some duct temp readings.
There is no way that a Tundra won't heat 1000 sq ft unless you can see through the walls, something is defiantly wrong with the setup.
Gotta figure out how to keep the damper closed ('stat satisfied) Do you have a filter kit on it? A filter would slow air flow a bit, maybe run a lil longer. A more restrictive filter would keep 'er on even longer, like a higher MERV rating HEPA type fliter


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## brenndatomu (Feb 5, 2015)

Dwyer Mark II manometer. $20-$30 on fleabay...


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## aimee750 (Feb 5, 2015)

I started running my Tundra in mid November and am very happy with it. 
My blower does not stay on constantly, it cycles but keeps the house warm enough to keep the propane off.


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## laynes69 (Feb 5, 2015)

These modern furnaces work the opposite of older furnaces. Once hot, the damper closes and the furnace heats up. You said something about a 120/140 switch, that's part of the problem. Keeping a damper open only pushes heat out the chimney and wastes wood. A lower switch will extract more heat during the later part of the burn, and will allow for the blower to run longer.


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## bedrock1 (Feb 5, 2015)

aimee750 said:


> I started running my Tundra in mid November and am very happy with it.
> My blower does not stay on constantly, it cycles but keeps the house warm enough to keep the propane off.


my house is well insulated ,lol the side would have to be out of it not to heat it , i think its the snap disc


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## bedrock1 (Feb 5, 2015)

aimee750 said:


> I started running my Tundra in mid November and am very happy with it.
> My blower does not stay on constantly, it cycles but keeps the house warm enough to keep the propane off.


hi my furnace wnt stay on very long about 5- 10 min when the drafter is closed. if i leave it open the blower will stay on longer. how meny sq feet u heating, how long can u get on 1 fill up


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## aimee750 (Feb 6, 2015)

My house is an old drafty farmhouse, approx. 2000sq ft without the basement.  I was having heating issues at first but figured out my ductwork needed some help, so did that and also added a cold air return to the tundra instead of just letting it pull from the basement.  Now it keeps the house 3-7 degrees warmer. I am very happy with it.


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## maple1 (Feb 6, 2015)

bedrock1 said:


> the furnace can heat the house if i leave the drafter open so the blower will stay on. where can i get a manometer


 
This is what I got & where I got it:

http://www.qualityinstruments-direc...ertical-manometer-0-3-w-c-using-red-gauge-oil

I think that's where I got it - when I got mine 3 years ago the place was called 'Dwyer Direct'. Anyway, that's what you want. You might find cheaper on Ebay, but by the time you get it here & pay exchange/shipping/etc., and wait for it to get here, you'd likely be just as far ahead getting it from this place. I forget how long it took to get here but it wasn't all that long.

(Just noticed harbour grace - that's Newfoundland? Cool, I think I have relatives there.)


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## bedrock1 (Feb 6, 2015)

maple1 said:


> This is what I got & where I got it:
> 
> http://www.qualityinstruments-direc...ertical-manometer-0-3-w-c-using-red-gauge-oil
> 
> ...


Yep I'm in newfoundland that's cool to know


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## bedrock1 (Feb 6, 2015)

aimee750 said:


> My house is an old drafty farmhouse, approx. 2000sq ft without the basement.  I was having heating issues at first but figured out my ductwork needed some help, so did that and also added a cold air return to the tundra instead of just letting it pull from the basement.  Now it keeps the house 3-7 degrees warmer. I am very happy with it.


Hi I have duct work in all bed rooms living room kitchen I have cold air return hook up something not right going on with the furnace


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## Fred61 (Feb 6, 2015)

bedrock1 said:


> hi i have a 7 '' chimney , im  burning last years cut  birch i have duct work all over my house .


I don't know much about your unit but I feel I am fairly knowledgeable about wood. If most of your birch is not split I can tell you it is not dry enough to burn. That birch bark is as waterproof as a plastic bag. Unsplit birch will rot and compost before it will dry if the bark is not permeated.
When you stated that your burn improved that was a clue, at least to me, that your wood is not as dry as it needs to be. If you have birch rounds all you need to do before stacking is to cut a groove the length of the stick with the tip of your chain saw and that will be enough to allow it to dry. Remember two year old wood gives you fewer headaches than one year stacked.


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## JRHAWK9 (Feb 6, 2015)

With my Kuuma I have my low limit button switch placed high up in my bonnet and have it set at 110/90 (put it at 105/85 when it gets very cold).  Even with the computer set at minimum burn the blower pretty much runs constantly from the time it turns on till there are a handful of coals.  Minimum burn will get me ~95°-100° vent temps.  Max burn will get me ~110° vent temps all with the blower running the whole time.   I did have to create more positive pressure in my duct though, as I seem to have over-sized ducts which would move too much air too fast not allowing the air to get properly heated.  Wonder if this could be an issue as well........?


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## bedrock1 (Feb 6, 2015)

JRHAWK9 said:


> With my Kuuma I have my low limit button switch placed high up in my bonnet and have it set at 110/90 (put it at 105/85 when it gets very cold).  Even with the computer set at minimum burn the blower pretty much runs constantly from the time it turns on till there are a handful of coals.  Minimum burn will get me ~95°-100° vent temps.  Max burn will get me ~110° vent temps all with the blower running the whole time.   I did have to create more positive pressure in my duct though, as I seem to have over-sized ducts which would move too much air too fast not allowing the air to get properly heated.  Wonder if this could be an issue as well........?


I have 8 inch  duct and reduce to 5 inch I try decrease and increase the blower SBI is sending me a new snap disc that cut in at low temp hope that its a faulty one.


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## JRHAWK9 (Feb 6, 2015)

if yours currently cuts in at 140....then the new one should do the trick.  I believe I've read they now cut in at 110.


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## bedrock1 (Feb 6, 2015)

bedrock1 said:


> I have 8 inch  duct and reduce to 5 inch I try decrease and increase the blower SBI is sending me a new snap disc that cut in at low temp hope that its a faulty one.


here are some pi


JRHAWK9 said:


> With my Kuuma I have my low limit button switch placed high up in my bonnet and have it set at 110/90 (put it at 105/85 when it gets very cold).  Even with the computer set at minimum burn the blower pretty much runs constantly from the time it turns on till there are a handful of coals.  Minimum burn will get me ~95°-100° vent temps.  Max burn will get me ~110° vent temps all with the blower running the whole time.   I did have to create more positive pressure in my duct though, as I seem to have over-sized ducts which would move too much air too fast not allowing the air to get properly heated.  Wonder if this could be an issue as well........?


Have some pictures
	

		
			
		

		
	




	

		
			
		

		
	
this is with drafter closed
	

		
			
		

		
	




	

		
			
		

		
	
 this is open drafter


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## bedrock1 (Feb 6, 2015)

JRHAWK9 said:


> if yours currently cuts in at 140....then the new one should do the trick.  I believe I've read they now cut in at 110.


Yeah the one they are sending cuts in at 110 hopefully that is the problem


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## laynes69 (Feb 6, 2015)

Did you reduce the 8" ducts to 5"?


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## bedrock1 (Feb 6, 2015)

laynes69 said:


> Did you reduce the 8" ducts to 5"?


Yep I reduce to 5 inch


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## JRHAWK9 (Feb 6, 2015)

bedrock1 said:


> Yeah the one they are sending cuts in at 110 hopefully that is the problem



if yours is currently 140, the new one will make a big difference.  Where is it located in the bonnet?  It's best to move it as high up in your bonnet as you can.  I moved my low limit button thermostat from where it was on the side of the furnace to up in my bonnet. I also added another identical one to act as a backup and to just serve as another temperature sample. One is mounted on the bonnet front/center as you face the furnace, about 24" up from the top of the furnace and the other is mounted as high up on the bonnet as I could get on the right side. I now have them both set at 110° normally but change it to 105° when it gets cold out. Doing this made a HUGE difference in the consistency of when the blower turns off/on. It will turn on whenever the first one senses 110/105 and off whenever the last one is to sense 90/85. I get more consistent heat this way as well. Before it seemed like the blower would not kick on when there were still decent coals. I don't have that issue any more.  The blower runs with just a handful of coals extracting as many BTU's as possible.

Keep in mind I have a different wood furnace than you but I'd think you'd have similar results by re-locating it.


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## bedrock1 (Feb 6, 2015)

JRHAWK9 said:


> if yours is currently 140, the new one will make a big difference.  Where is it located in the bonnet?  It's best to move it as high up in your bonnet as you can.  I moved my low limit button thermostat from where it was on the side of the furnace to up in my bonnet. I also added another identical one to act as a backup and to just serve as another temperature sample. One is mounted on the bonnet front/center as you face the furnace, about 24" up from the top of the furnace and the other is mounted as high up on the bonnet as I could get on the right side. I now have them both set at 110° normally but change it to 105° when it gets cold out. Doing this made a HUGE difference in the consistency of when the blower turns off/on. It will turn on whenever the first one senses 110/105 and off whenever the last one is to sense 90/85. I get more consistent heat this way as well. Before it seemed like the blower would not kick on when there were still decent coals. I don't have that issue any more.  The blower runs with just a handful of coals extracting as many BTU's as possible.
> 
> Keep in mind I have a different wood furnace than you but I'd think you'd have similar results by re-locating it.


I just check the snap disc with a ohm meter and a heat gun its cutting in and out. Im is on back of the furnace when I check where it is located u have to have to have some heat to cut it in. Can u send me a picture where u have yours mounted


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## brenndatomu (Feb 6, 2015)

bedrock1 said:


> Can u send me a picture where u have yours mounted


I think JR has a Kuuma with a plenum, completely different animal. Most wood burners would creosote up at the low fan temps that the Kuumas can get away with


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## laynes69 (Feb 6, 2015)

Why would you reduce the opening like that? You've reduced area of the openings by over 50%. With the 2-5" ducts, you have the equivalent of less than 1-8" opening. Not only do you overheat the firebox, you reduce your heat output of the furnace. Not to mention the blower up to 1400 cfms.


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## maple1 (Feb 6, 2015)

I think he tried that to increase his duct pressure at the suggestion of SBI?


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## laynes69 (Feb 6, 2015)

When the Tundra came out, I believe SBI said to disregard static pressures due to the 2-8" restrictions. On the Caddy, pressures need to be followed due to the large plenum opening. With 2-5" ducts, your around 40 sq inches. At 2-8" ducts, your at a little over 100sq inches. That's a huge reduction. Our Caddy which has the same firebox is pushing 144 sq inches off the plenum. You can't heat a house with little air volume. The fireboxes on these furnaces are capable of pushing alot of heat.


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## bedrock1 (Feb 6, 2015)

laynes69 said:


> Why would you reduce the opening like that? You've reduced area of the openings by over 50%. With the 2-5" ducts, you have the equivalent of less than 1-8" opening. Not only do you overheat the firebox, you reduce your heat output of the furnace. Not to mention the blower up to 1400 cfms.


I have 8 inch coming from my furnace and the length of my house and branch off with 5 inch ,I put damper in because SBI said my furnace might be to much static pressure


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## maple1 (Feb 6, 2015)

I would quite likely agree with that - but was under the impression it was a temporary troubleshooting experiment.

(Edit: Replying to Laynes last post...)


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## maple1 (Feb 6, 2015)

That Dwyer manometer mentioned earlier can also be used to measure your duct pressures along with chimney draft. Would be a pretty handy tool to have.


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## laynes69 (Feb 6, 2015)

There's s reason why the comany is putting the lower sensors in their furnaces, they recover much more heat. I've ran high and low settings on ours, and I keep ours at 95 off 125 on or around there. I personally don't see a difference in the burn rate from one or the other, but I do see an increase in btus recoVered over the life of the burn. We don't accumulate creosote and we keep the house warm for many hours.


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## bedrock1 (Feb 6, 2015)

laynes69 said:


> There's s reason why the comany is putting the lower sensors in their furnaces, they recover much more heat. I've ran high and low settings on ours, and I keep ours at 95 off 125 on or around there. I personally don't see a difference in the burn rate from one or the other, but I do see an increase in btus recoVered over the life of the burn. We don't accumulate creosote and we keep the house warm for many hours.


Where can I get a lower one I call around today no luck


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## laynes69 (Feb 6, 2015)

Use the one SBI is sending you. Your ductwork sounds like it's hurting you.


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## bedrock1 (Feb 6, 2015)

laynes69 said:


> Use the one SBI is sending you. Your ductwork sounds like it's hurting you.


Why u say that


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## bedrock1 (Feb 6, 2015)

JRHAWK9 said:


> if yours is currently 140, the new one will make a big difference.  Where is it located in the bonnet?  It's best to move it as high up in your bonnet as you can.  I moved my low limit button thermostat from where it was on the side of the furnace to up in my bonnet. I also added another identical one to act as a backup and to just serve as another temperature sample. One is mounted on the bonnet front/center as you face the furnace, about 24" up from the top of the furnace and the other is mounted as high up on the bonnet as I could get on the right side. I now have them both set at 110° normally but change it to 105° when it gets cold out. Doing this made a HUGE difference in the consistency of when the blower turns off/on. It will turn on whenever the first one senses 110/105 and off whenever the last one is to sense 90/85. I get more consistent heat this way as well. Before it seemed like the blower would not kick on when there were still decent coals. I don't have that issue any more.  The blower runs with just a handful of coals extracting as many BTU's as possible.
> 
> Keep in mind I have a different wood furnace than you but I'd think you'd have similar results by re-locating it.


Sorry mine is 120


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## bedrock1 (Feb 6, 2015)

laynes69 said:


> When the Tundra came out, I believe SBI said to disregard static pressures due to the 2-8" restrictions. On the Caddy, pressures need to be followed due to the large plenum opening. With 2-5" ducts, your around 40 sq inches. At 2-8" ducts, your at a little over 100sq inches. That's a huge reduction. Our Caddy which has the same firebox is pushing 144 sq inches off the plenum. You can't heat a house with little air volume. The fireboxes on these furnaces are capable of pushing alot of heat.


I have the damper open all the way now. SBI told me I was losing to much heat


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## bedrock1 (Feb 6, 2015)

i was looking where they have the snap disc to goes it funny they have it there because u have brick and the steet of stuff that lay on top of the pipe with the hples in it there is more heat in the front then in the back of the furnace. does that steet of stuff lay right on top of the pipes and pusth to the back.


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## DoubleB (Feb 6, 2015)

bedrock1 said:


> I have the damper open all the way now. SBI told me I was losing to much heat



Doesn't matter if you opened the duct dampers, if you still reduce the 8" to 5" ducts, nothing will get better until you increase duct size and airflow.


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## brenndatomu (Feb 6, 2015)

bedrock1 said:


> I have 8 inch coming from my furnace and the length of my house and branch off with 5 inch ,I put damper in because SBI said my furnace might be to much static pressure


So if I understand this right, you have two 8" "trunk" lines running the length of the house, and then 5" runs off of that going to the registers?


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## bedrock1 (Feb 6, 2015)

DoubleB said:


> Doesn't matter if you opened the duct dampers, if you still reduce the 8" to 5" ducts, nothing will get better until you increase duct size and airflow.


But the floor vents are 5 inch


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## maple1 (Feb 6, 2015)

Pics might help here too. Multiple 5" take-offs off an 8" trunk won't hurt things. But one 8" trunk going to one 5" vent is another thing. Might be stuff getting lost in translations here....


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## DoubleB (Feb 6, 2015)

bedrock1 said:


> Yep I reduce to 5 inch



I think you'll help us if you can more accurately describe your ductwork.  The above quote could likely be your problem.  



brenndatomu said:


> So if I understand this right, you have two 8" "trunk" lines running the length of the house, and then 5" runs off of that going to the registers?



Whereas the above quote could work well.

Clarification would help.


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## DoubleB (Feb 6, 2015)

Are you using the side-by-side outlets on the top of the furnace, or the front and back outlets?


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## bedrock1 (Feb 6, 2015)

DoubleB said:


> Are you using the side-by-side outlets on the top of the furnace, or the front and back outlets?


I'm using side to side. About the ductwork my main run is 8 " then I have it branch off from that to my rooms


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## brenndatomu (Feb 6, 2015)

bedrock1 said:


> I'm using side to side. About the ductwork my main run is 8 " then I have it branch off from that to my rooms


If that's the case then dampers should be on the 5" runs or have closable register vent covers


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## bedrock1 (Feb 6, 2015)

brenndatomu said:


> If that's the case then dampers should be on the 5" runs or have closable register vent covers


I have closable ones in my vents,SBI said to put one each in the 8" but it makes more sense what your saying I will do that


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## bedrock1 (Feb 7, 2015)

aimee750 said:


> I started running my Tundra in mid November and am very happy with it.
> My blower does not stay on constantly, it cycles but keeps the house warm enough to keep the propane off.


how long will your blower stay on if the damper is closed


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## aimee750 (Feb 7, 2015)

I have never timed it. It just cycles on and off and varies a lot depending on what part of the burn cycle it is.


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## bedrock1 (Feb 7, 2015)

aimee750 said:


> I have never timed it. It just cycles on and off and varies a lot depending on what part of the burn cycle it is.


what is the manufur date on yours did u have the chage the thermodisc on yours.


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## aimee750 (Feb 8, 2015)

I think mine is the older version I brought it in Feb 2014


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## bedrock1 (Feb 8, 2015)

aimee750 said:


> I think mine is the older version I brought it in Feb 2014


no i did not know about it only for the guy on here, im going to call sbi tomorrow. mind was manf 28/02/2013 only install it 3-4 months ago. call sbi


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## bedrock1 (Feb 8, 2015)

aimee750 said:


> I think mine is the older version I brought it in Feb 2014


does your furnace have the thermodisc on top or the back.


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## aimee750 (Feb 8, 2015)

back


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## bedrock1 (Feb 8, 2015)

aimee750 said:


> back


they have a kit the guys said that comes with the cold air intake, with a different temp cut in cut out then the one u have i say and it mounts to tope of your furnace.


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## aimee750 (Feb 8, 2015)

I have the cold air kit but it didn't involve moving the disc


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## bedrock1 (Feb 8, 2015)

aimee750 said:


> I have the cold air kit but it didn't involve moving the disc


that is funny . the guys sent me a picture with the update with the things to put the therodisc on top. so did u order your ket from sbi


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## aimee750 (Feb 8, 2015)

I ordered the kit with the furnace back in Feb 2014 , the disc on the top is a newer thing


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## jdogg (Feb 8, 2015)

I wonder if you can get a Tundra with a door handle on the left side? You know for right handers. That and the cheesy ash pan door setup are the worst in my mind.


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## bedrock1 (Feb 8, 2015)

jdogg said:


> I wonder if you can get a Tundra with a door handle on the left side? You know for right handers. That and the cheesy ash pan door setup are the worst in my mind.


im not realy sure but i say one on here can anwer that for ya.


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## bedrock1 (Feb 8, 2015)

aimee750 said:


> I ordered the kit with the furnace back in Feb 2014 , the disc on the top is a newer thing





aimee750 said:


> I ordered the kit with the furnace back in Feb 2014 , the disc on the top is a newer thing


i





jdogg said:


> I wonder if you can get a Tundra with a door handle on the left side? You know for right handers. That and the cheesy ash pan door setup are the worst in my mind.


hi do u have your furnace install yet. i dont now how i can get the picture the guys sent to me to send to u .


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## brenndatomu (Feb 8, 2015)

jdogg said:


> I wonder if you can get a Tundra with a door handle on the left side?


No. They said it would cost too much to make it a left/right door. Trying to make a pricepoint for retail stores and all...


jdogg said:


> That and the cheesy ash pan door setup are the worst in my mind.


You can get a PSG Caddy, same furnace only more HD and have to get from a dealer, 'bout twice as much $$ too.
I don't think most people even bother using the ash drawer, kinda like on the newer stoves that have ash drawers, same set up


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## brenndatomu (Feb 8, 2015)

bedrock1 said:


> hi do u have your furnace install yet. i dont now how i can get the picture the guys sent to me to send to u .


https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/image-9-jpg.152938/
	
   this one?
https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/image-png.152895/






  or this one?


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## bedrock1 (Feb 8, 2015)

aimee750 said:


> I ordered the kit with the furnace back in Feb 2014 , the disc on the top is a newer thing


u see pictures that brenndatomu sent


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## bedrock1 (Feb 16, 2015)

brenndatomu said:


> https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/image-9-jpg.152938/
> 
> this one?
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/image-png.152895/
> ...


Did u get a new thermodisc with the kit


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