# DON'T replace that old door gasket, re-shape it.



## arnash (Feb 26, 2011)

If a door gasket is compressed enough in some spot that the door doesn't press a piece of paper tightly against the body, (allowing air in through a gap between them, don't think that that makes it necessary to replace the gasket (the asbestos rope).  Do what I did yesterday, reshape the gasket with a pair of pliers.  Squeeze in the overly flattened area every quarter inch. 



 

 







If your stove is older and well used, check the door-latch rod to see if it's worn down.  Mine is worn down perhaps 1/8th inch so the door wouldn't close tightly until I wound a thick wire around it.  But there was still one area where a mail-in magazine subscription card was real loose.  So I reshaped the gasket in that spot and afterward it gripped the paper card pretty firmly.


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## soupy1957 (Feb 26, 2011)

A good "quick fix" suggestion (Gasket).  However, as you know, any time you manipulate something that is brittle or hardened, it eventually re-smashes (as it were) itself, BACK to the shape it was originally.  Ultimately you should replace the Gasket, for a fresh start at keeping a good seal. That said.........I'm sure your temporary fix will help some, for a while.

-Soupy1957


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## arnash (Feb 27, 2011)

I have no experience with asbestos rope gaskets and don't know if the door gasket in my stove has ever been replaced, but it's currently quite flexible. It seems that it's in very good shape if it's as old as the stove (1988).   Definitely, any brittle gasket is not flexible and replacement is the only option.


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## Pellet-King (Feb 27, 2011)

I have all original 12 yr old gasket's my door gasket is squished pretty good and the door latch stud is lil loose, dont know if i can access it from the inside to tighten it up.


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## Corny (Feb 27, 2011)

At the start of this heating season, I found that my door gasket was a bit frayed near the door latch, perhaps from overtightening.  I repaired it "temporarily" using a bit of hi-temp silicone sealant. It is still holding up.

I agree, though, that it would be best to replace new.

There's also a lesson, here, against overtightening of door latches.


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## Lousyweather (Feb 27, 2011)

here's an idea......go to the stove shop with ten or twenty bucks and replace the gasket and do it RIGHT rather than bandaid it and limp it along....


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## perchin (Feb 27, 2011)

Hmmmm... I recently only paid $12.99 for a stove gasket kit that came with enough rope, and sealent to do mine about three times.


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## Lousyweather (Feb 27, 2011)

perchin said:
			
		

> Hmmmm... I recently only paid $12.99 for a stove gasket kit that came with enough rope, and sealent to do mine about three times.



my point exactly, perchin


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## pete324rocket (Feb 27, 2011)

arnash said:
			
		

> If a door gasket is compressed enough in some spot that the door doesn't press a piece of paper tightly against the body, (allowing air in through a gap between them, don't think that that makes it necessary to replace the gasket (the asbestos rope).  Do what I did yesterday, reshape the gasket with a pair of pliers.  Squeeze in the overly flattened area every quarter inch.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Despite all the bashers to your procedure,I have used my best pliers and have found this works well. If it is not frayed or brittle,you get like new sealing. Gasket material is not all that spongy anyways,so a replacement would be a waste of money,if the goal is to seal only. I would suggest using duck-bill pliers with less teeth.


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## Corny (Feb 27, 2011)

Lousyweather said:
			
		

> here's an idea......go to the stove shop with ten or twenty bucks and replace the gasket and do it RIGHT rather than bandaid it and limp it along....



Lousyweather, I wish it were that easy.  I love my stove, but the door gasket is not a user-replaceable part. You have to ship the door the to factory. It is explained here: http://forum.iburncorn.com/wiki/index.php/BixbyFAQ#Door_gasket .


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## SmokeyTheBear (Feb 27, 2011)

earlll said:
			
		

> I doubt asbestos is involved these days. I think they refer more to fiberglass.



It is basicly woven fiberglass these days.  No asbestos at all.


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## Corny (Feb 27, 2011)

The issue with my type of stove has nothing to do with asbestos, folks.  It uses a special tadpole-style gasket that must be embedded into the same material that holds the curved glass in place.  Any messing in there voids the 7 year warranty. For minor gasket damage, one is inclined to hold out with temporary repairs until conditions are more favouravble to make a proper repair. 

The stove is negative draft, so if the repair job fails, I'll know from the burn.  I'm amazed that the little repair job is holding out so well.  I used Permatex copper sealant.

EDIT:  OK, I see that the asbestos comments pertain to others' casual earlier reference to asbestos. Sorry for the outburst.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Feb 27, 2011)

Corny said:
			
		

> The issue with my type of stove has nothing to do with asbestos, folks.  It uses a special tadpole-style gasket that must be embedded into the same material that holds the curved glass in place.  Any messing in there voids the 7 year warranty. For minor gasket damage, one is inclined to hold out with temporary repairs until conditions are more favouravble to make a proper repair.
> 
> The stove is negative draft, so if the repair job fails, I'll know from the burn.  I'm amazed that the little repair job is holding out so well.  I used Permatex copper sealant.
> 
> EDIT:  OK, I see that the asbestos comments pertain to others' casual earlier reference to asbestos. Sorry for the outburst.



Special gaskets (tools, motors, etc ..) sure can make things a bit complicated, no doubt about it.


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## Wood Heat Stoves (Mar 4, 2011)

arnash said:
			
		

> I have no experience with *asbestos* rope gaskets and don't know if the door gasket in my stove has ever been replaced, but it's currently quite flexible. It seems that it's in very good shape if it's as old as the stove (1988).   Definitely, any brittle gasket is not flexible and replacement is the only option.



fiberglass

also, old gaskets loose there gasket effect pretty quickly when "re-shaped"


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## arnash (Mar 5, 2011)

But there's little pressure on a reshaped section to cause it to re-flatten because such a section wasn't even touching the frame to begin with, so after it re-flattens a little, it should be left compressed enough to be just touching the frame.  It's been about a week since I reshaped a section of my door gasket and the dollar bill test result is that it's still tight.   But even if it wasn't, that's not a good reason to go to the bother of replacing an otherwise intact gasket because the amount of air that can leak into the stove is insignificant considering the strength of the blower.  If there are no ash obstructions in the vent system then the combustion flame is going to be plenty strong regardless of a gasket that doesn't pass the gasket test.  I know the manual emphasizes having a flawless gasket but I think the reason isn't to assure a strong burn pot air flow, but to prevent smoke from escaping if the power goes out, or some such circumstance.  
    Also I noticed that there was no discernible difference in the strength of my flame after the door was sealed tight.


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