# Harman Stove Defect



## mlwschultz (Dec 14, 2009)

FYI to everyone with Harman stoves built late 2007-2008.

I had a Harman dealer (same one we purchased stove from & they installed the stove) come out to look at our Harman XXV stove Saturday because the squeaking was driving us nuts!  The squeaking turned out to be an arm in the back by the chain (which was too tight).  He did some adjustments on that & they will do more in the shop.  He looked at the end of the auger tube & said we have a hole there (looks like a crack to me).  He said this is caused by the lowest row of burn pot holes & is a problem in the late 2007 & 2008 stoves.  It's apparently a known defect, but the dealer can't fix it until the hole is evident.  Our dealer is picking up the stove today, will replace the auger tube or whatever the fix is (some kit they have) and will close up those holes by welding them in.  Then return the stove to us Wednesday.  Harman is paying for everything except the $55 service call charge for Saturday.


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## goatman-68 (Dec 14, 2009)

Anyone have a photo of the burn pot with the extra holes or the location as to how close to the auger tube?


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## mlwschultz (Dec 14, 2009)

THey are immediately in front of it.


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## goatman-68 (Dec 14, 2009)

I better look at mine when I get home. I wonder if putting stainless steel machine screws in the holes would hold up or would they need to be welded..


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## goatman-68 (Dec 14, 2009)

I noticed that on somewhat of a low burn my stove actually burns the pellets in the first inch or so of the auger tube, I wonder if this is caused by the extra holes, which i still don't know if I have (not home) but, my stove falls in that date range........


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## Lousyweather (Dec 14, 2009)

goatman-68 said:
			
		

> I better look at mine when I get home. I wonder if putting stainless steel machine screws in the holes would hold up or would they need to be welded..



you could weld them, then grind off the excess. Any protrusions would cause the burn pot to be very difficult to scraps (using screws would make protrusions)


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## HEMI (Dec 14, 2009)

my stove is a '09.....only has wholes that cover about half the burn pot, mid way down the burn pot to auger no holes.....am i reading the original post correct that they redesigned the pot with less air wholes?


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## Lousyweather (Dec 14, 2009)

that you are, Hemi! youve got one of the later ones, without the 5 holes at the bottom of the burnpot


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## mlwschultz (Dec 14, 2009)

Yes, dealer told me the newer stoves were even better than the previous ones.  The dealer also said that by welding shut those holes, the fire will appear a little more forward but it won't affect the burning at all.  I'll know for myself later this week, they are returning the stove Wednesday.  Will really miss it while it's gone!


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## ducker (Dec 14, 2009)

mlwschultz said:
			
		

> Yes, dealer told me the newer stoves were even better than the previous ones.  The dealer also said that by welding shut those holes, the fire will appear a little more forward but it won't affect the burning at all.  I'll know for myself later this week, they are returning the stove Wednesday.  Will really miss it while it's gone!



I just had the feeder tube assembly replaced and reattached to my previous burn pot.  They closed those 5 holes too.  I noticed the flame is a LOT lower, but I feel as if the heat it is outputting is more then I was previously having.

I could post a pic, but I'm not sure if they will clearly show these holes.


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## ducker (Dec 14, 2009)

goatman-68 said:
			
		

> I noticed that on somewhat of a low burn my stove actually burns the pellets in the first inch or so of the auger tube, I wonder if this is caused by the extra holes, which i still don't know if I have (not home) but, my stove falls in that date range........



I believe this is to be the case too... it also causes a lot more heat to be focused at the end of the feed tube/ which caused the edge of my feed tube to start failing, to the point where the auger caused a slight hole in the feed tube. 

I'll be posting more pictures to this thread later:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/47362/


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## LIpelletpig (Dec 14, 2009)

For most it's very difficult to see those holes.  Best bet is get a small mirror (cosmetic) and hold it on an angle over the burn pot where the holes are and you'll see right away if you have them or you don't.


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## summit (Dec 15, 2009)

they added 4 extra holes back then, in the base of the burnpot, and provided templates to drill them in existing units... however, they have gone away from that the last yr....Makes sense that they would: it was an effort to be even more casual about burning a harman by eliminating most carbon buildup from the base of the pot to satisfy lazy pellet burners (IMHO) who didn't feel the need to scrape the pot once or twice a week as a good tradeoff to emptiying the pan only once or twice a month. 
In the end, however, you gotta handle ANY pellet stove at least once or twice a week for proper operation.


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## goatman-68 (Dec 15, 2009)

Well my XXV has the extra 5 holes. I am contemplating wheather I should do something about it or leave it be. Mine doesn't have any damage as of yet, but I don't want any either. I imagine the burn pot comes right off with 4 nuts and disconnecting the igniter, then it could be welded. One other thought I had was to tap the holes and put some short set screws in the holes and run them down flush. Also we have tapered pins at work for repairing cracks in diesel cylinder heads, I may check those out too. Anyone else going to do anything with theirs or do we wait till it fails then call the dealer since I have 4 years left on the warranty.................... I bet plugging or welding those holes will solve my problem of pellets burning in the auger tube about an inch in, since there wouldn't be enough air for them to burn in the tube...........


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## MCPO (Dec 15, 2009)

That burn pot is a lot different than the one in my P-38. 
 Mine has only 4 rows of holes , no holes at the bottom , and no holes on each side of the auger tube at 10 and 2 oclock.


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## Bigjim13 (Dec 15, 2009)

I'm not sure I understand the problem.  I have a P61A and my burnpot looks almost exactly like that one, with the 4 or 5 holes right in front of the auger tube.  So what problem does this cause? Thanks!


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## Stentor (Dec 15, 2009)

I had my Harman XXV delivered in December 2008.  Do you know if that means it was manufactured in the problem time frame you are talking about?  Also, is it a design flaw in all the model XXV manufactured then or a manufacturing flaw that shows up in some and maybe not others?

My stove has been great (although we do hear occasionally a loud squealing noise.)  What exactly should I watch for, besides that noise?


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## mlwschultz (Dec 15, 2009)

The squealing noise could be carbon build up that needs to be scraped out, or could be a problem with the auger, etc.  Most common cause for squealing in the carbon buildup, once the stove is clean & still squealing then it's time to investigate the other causes.  If you look at the right side of your stove, on the tag where the serial number is, near the bottom of the tag it shows the build date, years first, then months.  If your stove was delivered December 2008 then it could be included in this time frame.  It's a design flaw in all Harman pellet stoves, not just the XXV.  Look at the photos above, you'll see what looks like a fine crack near the end of the auger tube, this is what Harman is repairing but not until it has actually failed (cracked).


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## goatman-68 (Dec 15, 2009)

Called my dealer today and explained the burn pot deal, and that mine is burning pellets in the tube. They asked if I had a hole in the tube, I said no and I don't want one....... They said that I can get a new updated burn pot. The burn pot and labor is covered under warranty, all I have to pay is a 75.00 trip charge, or I can do it myself for free. I opted for the trip charge and they are coming out Thursday to swap it out. What a great dealer.......................


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## ducker (Dec 15, 2009)

goatman-68 said:
			
		

> Called my dealer today and explained the burn pot deal, and that mine is burning pellets in the tube. They asked if I had a hole in the tube, I said no and I don't want one....... They said that I can get a new updated burn pot. The burn pot and labor is covered under warranty, all I have to pay is a 75.00 trip charge, or I can do it myself for free. I opted for the trip charge and they are coming out Thursday to swap it out. What a great dealer.......................



lame that you get charged for the trip to fix a problem you didn't create.

Let us know if they modify your burn pot, or replace it.  I believe they modified mine, not replaced it.


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## Stentor (Dec 16, 2009)

mlwschultz said:
			
		

> The squealing noise could be carbon build up that needs to be scraped out, or could be a problem with the auger, etc.  Most common cause for squealing in the carbon buildup, once the stove is clean & still squealing then it's time to investigate the other causes.  If you look at the right side of your stove, on the tag where the serial number is, near the bottom of the tag it shows the build date, years first, then months.  If your stove was delivered December 2008 then it could be included in this time frame.  It's a design flaw in all Harman pellet stoves, not just the XXV.  Look at the photos above, you'll see what looks like a fine crack near the end of the auger tube, this is what Harman is repairing but not until it has actually failed (cracked).



I checked the tag below the serial number and the stove was built in November 2008.  What I'll do is pay attention to the occasional squeal (happens only when we are trying for a high room temp and it's cold outside).  I'll also watch out for the crack but don't see it yet.  Thanks for the info.


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## exoilburner (Dec 16, 2009)

Stentor said:
			
		

> I had my Harman XXV delivered in December 2008.  Do you know if that means it was manufactured in the problem time frame you are talking about?  Also, is it a design flaw in all the model XXV manufactured then or a manufacturing flaw that shows up in some and maybe not others?
> 
> My stove has been great (although we do hear occasionally a loud squealing noise.)  What exactly should I watch for, besides that noise?



Stentor, try vacuuming out the fines around the slide plate.  I have a Harmon pellet furnace and vacuuming out those fines from the slide plate at the bottom of my pellet hopper has fixed the squeel every time.  With the stove OFF I empty the pellet hopper and put the FEED ADJUSTER in TEST; and while the slide plate is cycling I run the vacuum around the slide plate.


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## lecomte38 (Dec 16, 2009)

I wonder if JB Weld would last?  It would be easy to try.


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## lecomte38 (Dec 17, 2009)

I just put 5 roofing nails in the holes to see the difference.  The fire is definitely further up in the burn pot.  I can even see unburned pellets getting pushed out of the feed tube.  This could be a good fix and probibly the reason my auger end is bent from overheating with the fire in the feed tube.  I'll run it for a few days before making a permanent fix.


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## Bigjim13 (Dec 17, 2009)

So if the pellets are burning in the auger tube does that affect heat output?  What affects would it have on the performance of the stove?

I wonder if I should call my dealer about this and see if I can get the updated burnpot...


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## goatman-68 (Dec 17, 2009)

lecomte38 said:
			
		

> I just put 5 roofing nails in the holes to see the difference.  The fire is definitely further up in the burn pot.  I can even see unburned pellets getting pushed out of the feed tube.  This could be a good fix and probibly the reason my auger end is bent from overheating with the fire in the feed tube.  I'll run it for a few days before making a permanent fix.



That was a great idea for a test. I just cleaned mine and had major carbon again at the feed tube. I was watching it last night and you could see no pellets in the feed tube, just fire. The dealer is on there way out today to replace my burn pot, can't wait to see the difference.....


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## ducker (Dec 17, 2009)

Bigjim13 said:
			
		

> So if the pellets are burning in the auger tube does that affect heat output?  What affects would it have on the performance of the stove?
> 
> I wonder if I should call my dealer about this and see if I can get the updated burnpot...



they can cause the pellets to "overfire" and cause damage to the end of the feed tube as been illustrated in a couple of different threads.

I spoke with a harman repair tech at the stove shop I got my P38 from, and he stated that they filled in the holes with a putty like substance.  (2 different putty types, when mixed together forms a hard bond in 20minutes)

That Harman added those 5 holes to assist in creating a cleaner/hotter burn to reduce clinkers... only to cause potential failure in the feed tube.

I found if anything, my heat output increased.


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## tinkabranc (Dec 17, 2009)

Anyone know when Harman actually made the 5 hole change at the bottom of the burnpot?
It had to be prior to the 07-08 models.

My XXV was built in 2005 and my Advance in 2006.  
Both have the 5 holes at the bottom of the pot near the auger tube.  
So far, neither seem to show any damage as of yet tho.


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## el gordo (Dec 17, 2009)

i have an '06 P-68 that i have used for a couple years( which i love) and i haven't seen any issues yet regarding this defect. and i have been keeping a keen eye on these threads and my stove to see if it something i should worry about. by the way this forums is great!


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## el gordo (Dec 17, 2009)

i have an '06 P-68 that i have used for a couple years( which i love) and i haven't seen any issues yet regarding this defect and the stove has the 5 holes down near the tube. and i have been keeping a keen eye on these threads and my stove to see if it something i should worry about. by the way this forums is great!


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## lecomte38 (Dec 17, 2009)

Do you people with the pre 07 stoves with the 5 holes also have 2 holes up on the sides of the pot?


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## krooser (Dec 17, 2009)

lecomte38 said:
			
		

> I wonder if JB Weld would last?  It would be easy to try.



JB won't take the heat... to fill the holes involves about 30 seconds worth of welding time.


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## mnkywrnch (Dec 17, 2009)

krooser said:
			
		

> lecomte38 said:
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Exactly weld it grind it smooth and your done.


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## tinkabranc (Dec 17, 2009)

lecomte38 said:
			
		

> Do you people with the pre 07 stoves with the 5 holes also have 2 holes up on the sides of the pot?



My XXV has em like in goatman-68 pic, but the Advance does not.


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## trogers (Dec 18, 2009)

mnkywrnch said:
			
		

> krooser said:
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Am I correct in assuming that you have to remove the burnpot to weld it?


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## goatman-68 (Dec 18, 2009)

Got mine replaced today with a new one. I'm happy and the stove is happy............. I can now see unburned pellets in the auger tube so it made a big difference.


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## maglite67 (Dec 18, 2009)

ducker said:
			
		

> goatman-68 said:
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If you don't want a charge bring the stove into the shop the dealer doesn't build the stove they sell and service them.  The warranty covers parts and labor and not travel I guess you want the dealer to clean and put pellets in the stove also.


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## goatman-68 (Dec 18, 2009)

Hi Nick, nice to see you post on the forum......... Actually I have absolutely no problem with the trip charge. I manage a rebuild shop and I know it cost money to do business, not to mention they were 45 minutes away.


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## maglite67 (Dec 18, 2009)

They won't let me pm yet im too new of a user but I will be back to answer questions thanks for turning me onto this fourm. 

Your service tech 

Nick


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## Elad (Dec 18, 2009)

Only have them 2 hole at 10:00 & 2:00 position above feedtube. Been wondering about restricting them holes.
I have an 09 P68 model and I have pellets burning in/at the end of the feed tube area 
Lower speeds you can see the auger glowing red. Seems to be too much air coming out of the tube?
Running 4 on feed now to prevent that.

Keeping a watch on this thread!

Squeaks I had were from tight bearings on the cam arm assembly. Didn't have any silicone spray so used a drop of gun oil on all them dearings.
 Squeaks are all gone now


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## goatman-68 (Dec 18, 2009)

maglite67 said:
			
		

> They won't let me pm yet im too new of a user but I will be back to answer questions thanks for turning me onto this fourm.
> 
> Your service tech
> 
> Nick



It was a pleasure to have you work on my stove. You are very proffessional and a wealth of information. I would have brought the stove to the shop but trying to carry that cast iron anchor down two flights of steps then throwing it in the back of the pickup just wasn't worth it.....L.O.L

I hope you enjoy the forum, Welcome........


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## maglite67 (Dec 18, 2009)

Was great working for you.  I'm going to log off for the night and hope to see you on here soon and not your house.


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## cantman (Dec 18, 2009)

I called my dealer today and explained the new style burn pot for the XXV.  He called Harman and they stated to him that there is not a warrantee or upgrade for the XXV burn pot??  Harman told him only the feeder mechanism is upgraded!?  I know that the feeder is now direct drive but that's not what I'm inquiring about.  What gives?

I'm confused, do I need secret code or special handshake to take advantage of the upgraded burnpot?


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## OldScrap (Dec 19, 2009)

I can guarantee JB Weld won't last!  It's still mostly epoxy and only good to about 500 degrees F.  A good wood fire is at least 800 degrees...


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## lecomte38 (Dec 19, 2009)

Update - 2 days  with the roof nails in the 5 holes.  Very happy with the results.  Fire seems to be more vigorous on the same stove temp setting and is definitely farther up in the burn pot.  The carbon build up is now on the slope with no holes instead of down in the feed tube throat.


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## trogers (Dec 19, 2009)

Does anyone know what the new burnpots cost?  Also, is there a video somewhere that shows how to replace it?


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## trogers (Dec 19, 2009)

NH Pellet Head said:
			
		

> Does anyone know what the new burnpots cost?  Also, is there a video somewhere that shows how to replace it?



Update:  I just called a Harman store in Amherst, NH and the guy said that they don't know about any new burn pot and that he couldn't give me a price because he doesn't have it listed on his parts list.  Now, there is a nice clear picture of one in this thread, so we know that they exist.  Curious.


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## swalz (Dec 19, 2009)

I think Harman doesn't want you to know that this can happen and are fixing the ones that break and hoping the rest will go bad after the warranty is up.  I talked to my dealer and told them that this has happen to other people and they said that it was news to them. I put 9 tons through my stove in under two years so most likely I am using more than a lot of people here in upper Delaware, I told them to get ready for other people having issues. I picked up pellets for $220 a ton with my brother's discount and the promotion from Lowes and last I checked they are going for $299 so people are not burning as much and using oil or gas. Also when they a replacing the feeder weldment if the burn pot has the holes at the bottom they are informed that it needs replaced with an updated burn pot.


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## Jim H. (Dec 19, 2009)

how about a part number from the guy who just got the updated pot.  I just cleaned mine yesterday before coming across this thread so i don't know if i have 5 holes near the auger.  i always wondered how good the fire was so close to the auger,  especially when running in a low mode.   enquiring minds want to know!  LOL

Jim


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## goatman-68 (Dec 20, 2009)

The part# is 11000675 which is the same part# on the XXV pdf parts list. I suppose they came out with a new burn pot but are probably using up existing inventory first. That is my guess and maybe thats why dealers aren't aware of any change since the part# appears to be the same.


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## Jim H. (Dec 22, 2009)

I cleaned it up today before firing it up and it does have the 5 holes near the auger.  there are a few inches with no holes till the top of the pot,  kinda weird.....i tried the nail trick and really didn't notice any difference?  will keep an eye out for any auger tube failure for sure now!  

 Jim


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## el gordo (Dec 22, 2009)

i too am keeping a keen eye on that area in my stove. no problems yet though. keeping my fingers crossed.


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## lecomte38 (Dec 22, 2009)

UPDATE:  WOW  what a difference.  I just cleaned the stove.  There was NO carbon build up anywhere near the throat of the feed tube.  All the carbon was on the smooth face and sides about 2 inches away from the tube.  My fire used to be in the tube with extreme carbon build up at the neck to the tube, damage to my auger tip, and constant clinkers.  Now there are no clinkers and it seems to be burning hotter.  
I removed the pot, pulled the nails, and brazed the holes for a permanent fix. It should work considering that the galvi nail heads showed no heat discoloration after a week in operation
Note my stove was built in Oct 2007


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## Jim H. (Dec 22, 2009)

how hard was it to remove the burn pot?  It might be worth it for the insurance policy of not having to worry about the
tube.  I should be able to get it welded by my neighbor.  Probably after the burning season.  I will just keep an eye on the nails for now....unless it is really easy....?


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## Lousyweather (Dec 22, 2009)

Jim H. said:
			
		

> how hard was it to remove the burn pot?  It might be worth it for the insurance policy of not having to worry about the
> tube.  I should be able to get it welded by my neighbor.  Probably after the burning season.  I will just keep an eye on the nails for now....unless it is really easy....?



not hard at all....unbolt the igniter if you have one (2 screws), unbolt the burnpot (4 bolts), and replace....just make sure you get another gasket and put it on before the new burnpot!


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## lecomte38 (Dec 22, 2009)

My old gasket was fine to reuse.  1/2" wrench is all you need.


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## swalz (Dec 23, 2009)

lecomte38 said:
			
		

> UPDATE:  WOW  what a difference.  I just cleaned the stove.  There was NO carbon build up anywhere near the throat of the feed tube.  All the carbon was on the smooth face and sides about 2 inches away from the tube.  My fire used to be in the tube with extreme carbon build up at the neck to the tube, damage to my auger tip, and constant clinkers.  Now there are no clinkers and it seems to be burning hotter.
> I removed the pot, pulled the nails, and brazed the holes for a permanent fix. It should work considering that the galvi nail heads showed no heat discoloration after a week in operation
> Note my stove was built in Oct 2007



I notice the same thing, I have burned 7 bags so far with the new burn pot and had very little buildup and none at the bottom. The glass seems to stay cleaner longer also.


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## ducker (Dec 23, 2009)

lecomte38 said:
			
		

> UPDATE:  WOW  what a difference.  I just cleaned the stove.  There was NO carbon build up anywhere near the throat of the feed tube.  All the carbon was on the smooth face and sides about 2 inches away from the tube.  My fire used to be in the tube with extreme carbon build up at the neck to the tube, damage to my auger tip, and constant clinkers.  Now there are no clinkers and it seems to be burning hotter.
> I removed the pot, pulled the nails, and brazed the holes for a permanent fix. It should work considering that the galvi nail heads showed no heat discoloration after a week in operation
> Note my stove was built in Oct 2007



Yep.... I cleaned mine today after burning about 5 bags straight.  and didn't notice any issues around where I was seeing carbon build up all last year (around the opening of the feed tube.  Last year I had to chip away the carbon away from the auger, this year, the only carbon I saw was on the sides of the burn pot which was a hell of a lot easier to clean up.


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## Bigjim13 (Dec 23, 2009)

Can someone explain how the 5 holes in the burnpot create this problem?  Do the pellets get hung up on the air holes?  I guess I'm not understanding.  Thanks!


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## MCPO (Dec 23, 2009)

On my Harman P38 there are no holes near the burn pot and it still burns about 1" into the auger hole when on low. I also have to scrape the carbon from the burnpot every other day.  Hardly any carbon ever on the auger or in the tube though.
 As far as I can see it`s all normal , at least for this model. 
 I`m not sure if this is at all related to those models with closer holes but only throwing this out there to those who would expect the flame not to touch the auger after the fix. Don`t be alarmed if it does.


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## THE ROOSTER (Dec 23, 2009)

My Harman Accentra has three holes down near the auger tube, but not as close to the auger as the picture on pg. 1... Is the Accentra made during this time part of this???

*UPDATED: after careful cleaning, it has four I can't see a fifth hole on the right...
UPDATE #2: I do have the 5 holes, took an ice pick and found it... 

I'have a product called "quick steal", that I might try just to see what happens, before I weld the holes closed... But before I do anything, I want to make darn sure that I need to do this
*


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## lecomte38 (Dec 23, 2009)

See all the carbon build up around the feed tube opening?  Mine was just like that.  Now, with the holes closed, there is NO carbon any where near the tube. It is all at least 1 1/2" up on tthe pot and very easy to scrape.  Drop in some roofing nails and try it.  You will like it.


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## Lousyweather (Dec 23, 2009)

lecomte38 said:
			
		

> My old gasket was fine to reuse.  1/2" wrench is all you need.



er, ok, but gaskets are cheap.......why not change it? "fine to reuse" is certainly subjective in most gasket cases......


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## goatman-68 (Dec 23, 2009)

My gasket came off in one piece but was extremely brittle. The new one is thicker and more flexible. Old one when flexed fell apart...........


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## THE ROOSTER (Dec 23, 2009)

lecomte38 said:
			
		

> See all the carbon build up around the feed tube opening?  Mine was just like that.  Now, with the holes closed, there is NO carbon any where near the tube. It is all at least 1 1/2" up on tthe pot and very easy to scrape.  Drop in some roofing nails and try it.  You will like it.



The roofing nails I have are too big, only the point fits in... Going to find out what the OD size is, and go find some smaller...

*UPDATE: Used 1.5" galvanized nails, dropped right in, and on a 50* day the stove is being test burned now... I will post my finding later in the evening 

THANKS*


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## THE ROOSTER (Dec 23, 2009)

OK, thanks for all the info put here Probably saved me a huge headache down the road... 
Some things I have seen and still a question to ask, first with the nails in place I noticed it took a little longer to ignite, and a lot longer to burn out when shutting down... But the fire is now away from the auger and feeder tube while burning on a low feed rate, now this is where the question comes, for those like me that burn on lower rates are we more likely to experience the problem over others up north that have colder temps. and burn on higher feed rates??? It looks to me like this is the case...
Here is a picture of it burning as low as it will go and you can clearly see unburned pellets instead of the auger...

Thanks again


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## investor7952 (Dec 25, 2009)

THE ROOSTER said:
			
		

> My Harman Accentra has three holes down near the auger tube, but not as close to the auger as the picture on pg. 1... Is the Accentra made during this time part of this???
> 
> *UPDATED: after careful cleaning, it has four I can't see a fifth hole on the right...
> UPDATE #2: I do have the 5 holes, took an ice pick and found it...
> ...


*


Hey Rooster what year is your stove? I have the same stove delivered Jan 09. Probably built nov or dec 08*


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## investor7952 (Dec 25, 2009)

mlwschultz said:
			
		

> Yes, dealer told me the newer stoves were even better than the previous ones.  The dealer also said that by welding shut those holes, the fire will appear a little more forward but it won't affect the burning at all.  I'll know for myself later this week, they are returning the stove Wednesday.  Will really miss it while it's gone!



My Harman Accentra insert was Manf. Nov 08 Just checked and there are no holes at the bottom of pot.


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## THE ROOSTER (Dec 25, 2009)

investor7952 said:
			
		

> THE ROOSTER said:
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We got the stove new in 07...



			
				NH Pellet Head said:
			
		

> Does anyone know what the new burnpots cost?  Also, is there a video somewhere that shows how to replace it?


I was quoted a price of $94.50 for the pot and $16.50 for the gasket...


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## el gordo (Dec 25, 2009)

THE ROOSTER said:
			
		

> investor7952 said:
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Really, only 100 bucks for a new pot? i might have to call my stove dealer and have him order me up one of them then after the holidays!


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## THE ROOSTER (Dec 26, 2009)

I talked to my dealer and they had no idea about this problem and told me not to worry about my stove, and from the sound of it didn't plan on investigating it either, I then called another dealer that is new, and CLOSER, and was very helpful... He actually called Harman_ (he said)_ and told me that they _(Harman)_ recommend I change the burn pot BUT would not pay  for any of it, so I figure I'll buy the gasket the next time I go to the boat and pull my pot and take it to work and weld it...


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## wwburning (Dec 28, 2009)

This morning i woke to my Harman P61a running on low with the auger glowing. I found my burn pot has the 5 holes at the bottom. I have placed nails as previously discussed in this thread in those 5 holes and yes the flame is no longer in the tube or near the auger at all. I will be placing a call into the dealer where i purchased the stove to see what we can come up with.

Chris


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## mlwschultz (Dec 28, 2009)

After burning our XXV stove for a week continuously after it was returned from the repair shop for the auger repair, there was no carbon buildup at the end of the auger tube, only in the burn pot.  Scraping it out was MUCH easier.  I didn't have to do any chipping of carbon!


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## Steve_in_NH (Dec 28, 2009)

Second year with our Accentra Insert and I too noticed the crack in the auger tube shown in the pictures.  Technician came out and said he would have to order the parts.  All covered by warranty.  Just waiting for parts.  Could be up to 30 days to get parts.....


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## Dougsey (Dec 28, 2009)

Steve, Do you have the five holes directly in front of the auger?


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## goatman-68 (Dec 29, 2009)

mlwschultz said:
			
		

> After burning our XXV stove for a week continuously after it was returned from the repair shop for the auger repair, there was no carbon buildup at the end of the auger tube, only in the burn pot.  Scraping it out was MUCH easier.  I didn't have to do any chipping of carbon!



Here is a photo of my dirty stove after 1-1/2 weeks of just minor pot scrapes while burning some (crap) Eureka pellets, another subject. I vacuumed the burn pot out with (NO) scraping and as you can see, no carbon buildup around the auger tube. I think the 5 hole pot may be the source of alot of peoples complaints of squeeling noise, due to the buildup around the auger tube, causing the auger to be side loaded and possibly rubbing on the tube. Now, I will do a full cleaning, normally once a week, but this time I went alittle longer........... :cheese:


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## Steve_in_NH (Dec 29, 2009)

Yes Dougsey, I have the  5 holes.  Technician said they only made that model burn pot for just a short while.  We'll see how things go..


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## trogers (Jan 2, 2010)

I cleaned my stove this morning and put five roofing nails into the holes near the auger.  I agree with an earlier poster that the heat output seems better after doing so.  The nails are just a temporary fix so I am either going to braze the holes shut or purchase the newer model burn pot.


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## THE ROOSTER (Jan 24, 2010)

Looks like I lost the center two nails... After further inspection it looks like the 1.5" nails I used are too long in the center... I hope my lawn mower doesn't find them this mowing season...
I just wonder if I lost them cleaning the pot out, or if the auger/pellets pushed them out...


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## mlwschultz (Jan 25, 2010)

Just had a follow-up service call for our XXV after the auger repair was made a few weeks ago.  We kept hearing this big clunking sound, and still had the squealing which is why we called them initially. The tech came out Saturday morning and said that the chain is slipping (the clunking sound).  He said the new assembly is slightly smaller than the original and it ends up hitting a weld, which was making the gears unlevel, causing the chain to slip.  He put in a couple of shims to square it up (used a piece of a nylon cable tie and a thicker piece of nylon for the other end) and we've only heard the chain slip once or twice since then & the squealing has stopped too.  Just something to be aware of if you've had your stove repaired already, or to address when the repair is made.  He called Harman about this & they weren't aware of the problem that they caused with the new assembly.


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## Steve_in_NH (Feb 3, 2010)

Well, technician came yesterday and essentially rebuilt my entire stove.  All new mechanical parts.  Completely replaced the Feed Box (and auger) and Burn Pot.  Took almost 4 hours.  Should be as good as new.  Evidently Harman does stand behind their stoves (mine is just over a year old).  No hassles and no problems.  See pics.


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## Dougsey (Feb 4, 2010)

Crap... double post.


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## Dougsey (Feb 4, 2010)

Wow Steve!  That is serious!

Did you already have the tube mod or did they do that today?

Who is your dealer if I may ask?  They took good care of you.


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## Steve_in_NH (Feb 4, 2010)

Dougsey said:
			
		

> Wow Steve!  That is serious!
> 
> Did you already have the tube mod or did they do that today?
> 
> Who is your dealer if I may ask?  They took good care of you.



No I didn't have the "Tube Mod"??  What is i?  Dealer is Abundant Life in Chichester, NH.  Have been very accommodating.


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## Dougsey (Feb 4, 2010)

I think that clear tube is suppose to fix the smoke in hopper problem but it may have come though like that from the factory.

Lousyweather would know for sure.


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## Steve_in_NH (Feb 4, 2010)

OK.  Yes he did the tube mod to the new feed box.  About a 3/8" clear tube from one part of the box to the other.  You can clearly see it in the photo....


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## THE ROOSTER (Feb 4, 2010)

I learn more and more about how these things work, from post's like the above... Thanks for sharing


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## Skippydo (Feb 4, 2010)

While we are talkling about Harman Stove defects, has anyone come across this problem?
PF100 furnace.  The ash is accumulating at the end of the burn pot, will not fall over into the
pan.  Have to go in every 24 hours and remove the built up ash.
I have used four different pellets, but all do the same.  Last year I did not have this problem.
I have cleaned everything.  This one got me!!


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## Coppertop808 (Dec 16, 2010)

Was trying to think of an easy way to patch the burn pot holes for someone that may not have access to welding equipment.  Two ideas...

1 - How about drilling/tapping to a known size just slightly larger than the hole.  Then insert a screw from the bottom side just long enough to come even with the surface on the top side.  If the screw was a little long it could be ground/filed down flush.

2 - I found a compund to repair muffler manifolds and such that is good up to 2000deg F.  Fill the holes with this??
http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...ir/Permatex_Hi-Temp_Metal_Repair_Compound.htm

Thoughts??

Great information in this thread!  Thanks to all for the info.  Need to have a look at mine tonight.  Started having some jamming issues with the auger last night and suspect I may have the same issues.  Recently lowered my burn rate and might have caused additonal carbon inside the auger tube.


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