# Homewood Lil’ One Wood Furnace



## bbalicki (Dec 14, 2009)

I was wondering if anyone has had experience with a Homewood Lil One wood furnace.  The front door says it was made in Arlington, VT.  I can't seem to find any information on the stove or the company.  I'd like to hear others thoughts on it or if anyone has some info on the company.

I'm contemplating it for a basement location and ~1000 S.F. house.  Thanks.


----------



## Bill54 (Dec 23, 2009)

Hello, I have a homewood wood furnace that works very well and was quite well made at the time. The intake air flow is regulated by a expansion spring and will close down if the stove gets too hot, or conversely open when the firebox has cooled. It has a blower connected to a line voltage thermostat, which one could connect to a wall thermostat.   I have it in my basement of a 2200 sf home and it does very well for the first floor, as I have only kept the top open rather than setting up a plenum and complete hot air piping as I have a hot water boiler as a backup.

In general I burn smaller pieces of wood or soft wood with some hardwoods in the fall, and as winter progress I switch to all hardwoods, and round rather than split logs for longer burns and more heat. And I adjust the air intake up to increase burn.

I really like the ash pan and grate that pulls out at the bottom to empty the stove. And the large door is great.

The only thing I might like to update is a hotwater recirculating plate on the side and perhaps a catalytic exhaust burn. Though I  have had no trouble with cresote buildup in my center chiminey.


----------



## bbalicki (Dec 23, 2009)

Bill

I've since installed the stove mentioned above, and i agree it seems like a well made simple stove.  

I do have some questions I'd like to hear from you on.  Once you have a good burn going do you completely close down the air intake on the door?  Or leave it cracked slightly?

What kind of burn times do you typically get?  I can't seem to beat about 5 hours? 

Thanks for your input.


----------



## Bill54 (Dec 24, 2009)

OK, On history of stove, can only say that I have been to Arlington Vermont to the Arlington Inn once and enjoyed dinner there very much.  And generally though someone put quite a bit of ingenious yankee experience into the stove. The most unique being the automatic air intake, ash pan at bottom and door. 

Are you finding the house warm when your return home? 

I always close the door fully, with careful attention to make sure it is tight with extra reinforcement and renew the stove gasket if it is not pretty airtight. If I wanted to get the stove hotter quicker opening the ash pan for a while is helpful. 

Closing the round air flow down will increase the burn time and one can increase the burn time by the type of wood used.  Hardwood, red oak, or maple or other in round logs extends the burn time to about 8 hours.  At least there will be plenty of hot material to restart. And I keep some pallet wood that has been cut up, to place on the bottom of fire when reloading with some split wood on the bottom and then round logs as long as will fit into stove. One can place palled wood between the layers of logs. If I have a good bank of coals I don't wait to close it down fully. If not I will use more clean pallet wood and split logs to get it hot and run the fan plenum blower on full during the time when I am keeping the ash pan open 1/4 to 3/4.  The more you open the faster and hotter and need to monitor, run the air blower.

All of that will help but my best guess would be that adding an external catalytic converter, a water therm-osiphon to the side would be well worth it.  Possibly an adjustable damper in the stove pipe if you have really strong draft. And to look at the concentrated blower air flows available on newer stoves to see if anything can be adapted to your stove. 

Wood is the single biggest factor for me, and if I know I need a longer burn then getting it ready by more frequent loading before the eight hour departure is helpful.  It also depends on when you need the most heat. 

Hope this helps

Bill


----------



## cjmetcalfe (Feb 8, 2010)

I just recently purchased a "Homewood" wood furnace, made in Arlington Vermont.  It's got a blower, plenum, intake air filter box, cast door which reads, "Homewood, Arlington, Vermont".  This furnace appears to be in excellent condition.  I am wondering if anyone out there has a manual on this heater, (perhaps in pdf).  I can't find anything on the internet regarding this furnace, except this here thread on this forum...  Does anyone know any details; when made, parts, company history, operation, installation?  Fixin' to install it in a basement to heat a 1400 sq ft home. 
Thanks,
Chris


----------



## cjmetcalfe (Feb 8, 2010)

Not a new topic but just trying to gather some more info:

I just recently purchased a “Homewood” wood furnace, made in Arlington Vermont.  It’s got a blower, plenum, intake air filter box, cast door which reads, “Homewood, Arlington, Vermont”.  This furnace appears to be in excellent condition.  I am wondering if anyone out there has a manual on this heater, (perhaps in pdf).  I can’t find anything on the internet regarding this furnace, except this here thread on this forum…  Does anyone know any details; when made, parts, company history, operation, installation?  Fixin’ to install it in a basement to heat a 1400 sq ft home. 

Thanks,

Chris


----------



## mike1234 (Feb 8, 2010)

Just guessing, but I bet all of you are connected to this company?  

If you want to sell your furnace on here you ought to purchase space, not do this fake question and answer thing - it makes you look dishonest - and who would want to buy a homewood furnace if the company is dishonest???



			
				cj said:
			
		

> I just recently purchased a "Homewood" wood furnace, made in Arlington Vermont.  It's got a blower, plenum, intake air filter box, cast door which reads, "Homewood, Arlington, Vermont".  This furnace appears to be in excellent condition.  I am wondering if anyone out there has a manual on this heater, (perhaps in pdf).  I can't find anything on the internet regarding this furnace, except this here thread on this forum...  Does anyone know any details; when made, parts, company history, operation, installation?  Fixin' to install it in a basement to heat a 1400 sq ft home.
> Thanks,
> Chris


----------



## stee6043 (Feb 8, 2010)

mike1234 said:
			
		

> Just guessing, but I bet all of you are connected to this company?
> 
> If you want to sell your furnace on here you ought to purchase space, not do this fake question and answer thing - it makes you look dishonest - and who would want to buy a homewood furnace if the company is dishonest???
> 
> ...



Hah...what makes you think this is fake?  Just because bbalicki went from having never heard of the company to being completely installed, burning, tuning and happy with the operation of the product in a whopping 10 days?  I had to smile reading it.  Clever, but quite transparent.


----------



## cjmetcalfe (Feb 8, 2010)

Hey Chief,
I have no idea why you posted that comment...

I really did just buy the wood furnace I'm inquiring about, second-hand for $300.  
And I really am looking for answers, so if you have anything to reply that would actually help, I'd appreciate it
Otherwise...just shut-up... and let us folks carry on meaningful commentary.
I'm just a Vermont Yankee lookin' for some help.

Chris
Steam Plant Systems
cjpmetcalfe@gmail.com


----------



## stee6043 (Feb 8, 2010)

cj said:
			
		

> Hey Chief,
> I have no idea why you posted that comment...
> 
> I really did just buy the wood furnace I'm inquiring about, second-hand for $300.
> ...



Easy there, Boss.  You might want to see who was being referenced in whose post before you start asking people to shut their pie holes on a board you're brand new to...


----------



## cjmetcalfe (Feb 8, 2010)

OK, that's fair.  You're right, I'm new to this forum.  This is the only place I have found a reference to the wood furnace I just bought.  There is no company, they have either folded or been bought.  Don't know for sure.  Just looking for some information.  Not looking for anything else.  
Thanks,
Chris


----------



## stee6043 (Feb 8, 2010)

Well you've come to the right place, CJ.  We're a very helpful lot here (most of the time myself included!).

So here is what I suggest - take a picture of whatever tags/plates/placards you can find on your wood burner and post them here.  That will help the folks on this site tremendously in figuring out what you have.  And if you have an specific questions about the unit ask away.  There a loads of people on this site running wood fired furnaces.  I bet we can get you started in the right direction with a minimum of pain....and welcome aboard, for the record.


----------



## cjmetcalfe (Feb 10, 2010)

This is a picture of the "Homewood", made in Arlington, Vermont

does it look new ??  Apparently manufactured in the 70's...


----------



## Bill54 (Feb 11, 2010)

Hello, 
Regarding the Homewood Wood Furnace, Arlington Vermont, American Made.

Chris was nice to post a picture on line.  I purchased the same mode in the late 70's and it has lasted and worked well.  They clearly where made very well at the time with care and pride someone with some skill knowledge and integrity. The materials used and durability where excellant. Features that make it easy for the wood cutter, and stove user at the time, and yet well though out and built. Possibly the wood burning interest waned with then falling oil prices, new sales declined or the company moved on to other endeavors.  They clearly contributed to wood burners and reduction in oil usage at the time. 

That said nearly forty years have brought catalytic converters, ceramic chambers, boiler mate add ons, all significant improvements.  Those earlier pioneers hopefully contributed to the success and advancement of these newer heat units.
Not all are ready to make upgrade to these very good units right away, that you guys have.  

With that said, If someone has information about hot water add on products or experience with catalytic converters it would be most interesting to each of us who wrote in. 

Thanks 

Bill


----------



## mike1234 (Feb 11, 2010)

I still say, these guys are trying to sell this stuff.  No one but a sales person talks this way!  But, so far, we haven't seen the "Oh, by the way, if you are interested in one, I found a few just call 333.333.3333."  But I still think it's going to happen.  



			
				Bill54 said:
			
		

> Hello,
> Regarding the Homewood Wood Furnace, Arlington Vermont, American Made.
> 
> Chris was nice to post a picture on line.  I purchased the same mode in the late 70's and it has lasted and worked well.  They clearly where made very well at the time with care and pride someone with some skill knowledge and integrity. The materials used and durability where excellant. Features that make it easy for the wood cutter, and stove user at the time, and yet well though out and built. Possibly the wood burning interest waned with then falling oil prices, new sales declined or the company moved on to other endeavors.  They clearly contributed to wood burners and reduction in oil usage at the time.
> ...


----------



## Birdman (Feb 11, 2010)

oooohhhh... drama in the boiler room!


----------



## stee6043 (Feb 11, 2010)

mike1234 said:
			
		

> I still say, these guys are trying to sell this stuff.  No one but a sales person talks this way!  But, so far, we haven't seen the "Oh, by the way, if you are interested in one, I found a few just call 333.333.3333."  But I still think it's going to happen.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



+1.  I'm with ya but I'm trying to play nice after being accosted the last time.  You're a bad influence on me, Mike.


----------



## Gooserider (Feb 11, 2010)

Coming in as moderator on this one....  I just checked Google, this thread was the First hit on "Homewood Furnace Arlington, VT" - the next several hits were all "scraper sites" that didn't have any obvious connection.  This strongly suggests to me that the company is no longer in existence.

Given that at least a couple of the posters were saying that they had gotten their units second hand, and / or a long time ago, are looking for manuals, etc...  This is NOT a thread that is setting off my "salesman alert" button, so at least until / unless we start seeing people trying to sell the units, I'm inclined to say give the benefit of the doubt, and quit with the salesman accusations.

While I appreciate the desire to support our general "no heavy sales pitches" policy, it is better to leave that job to the guys in the "mod squad" - if you feel that a post is inappropriate, use the "report this post" button up in the corner of every post, and say why...  If the mods agree, action will be taken, if nothing happens then it's a pretty safe bet that it was either handled "behind the scene" or that we didn't feel it was an issue worth dealing with.

Gooserider  (Who also doesn't want to see this turn into a thread about moderation policy...)


----------



## mike1234 (Feb 12, 2010)

I think he said "Mike, shut up and stop causing problems."  You have to read between the lines to see this, but not too hard.    



			
				Gooserider said:
			
		

> Coming in as moderator on this one....  I just checked Google, this thread was the First hit on "Homewood Furnace Arlington, VT" - the next several hits were all "scraper sites" that didn't have any obvious connection.  This strongly suggests to me that the company is no longer in existence.
> 
> Given that at least a couple of the posters were saying that they had gotten their units second hand, and / or a long time ago, are looking for manuals, etc...  This is NOT a thread that is setting off my "salesman alert" button, so at least until / unless we start seeing people trying to sell the units, I'm inclined to say give the benefit of the doubt, and quit with the salesman accusations.
> 
> ...


----------



## Gooserider (Feb 12, 2010)

Sort of  :coolgrin: but trying to be nice about it...  Also pointing out that the right way to handle it is to make it the "mod's problem" by reporting it, rather than posting directly...  No biggy, but this kind of thing can be how flame wars start and I don't like dealing with those...

Gooserider




			
				mike1234 said:
			
		

> I think he said "Mike, shut up and stop causing problems."  You have to read between the lines to see this, but not too hard.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Bill54 (Feb 12, 2010)

THIS POST HAD A VERY INTERESTING PICTURE MODIFYING AIR FLOW ON THE FIRE IN A STOVE ,IF SOMEONE CAN REPOST THIS WITH PICTURES THAT WOULD BE GREAT


    yetty734 - 11 May 2008 02:55 PM

    I have either a fisher mama bear or granpa bear woodburning stove with no baffle, secondary combustion or anything. What can i do for a reasonable small amount of money to improve its efficiency. I would imagine that installing a baffle would be my number one thing to do, but how do i go about doing this.

    does anyone know if 5-6 cords sounds alright for heating 2000 square feet from a basement in a 45 year old house with this stove?

    im thinking its a mama bear stove because dont all granpabear stoves have a baffle?

    thanks for the advise

    cody

Hi Cody,

try this link

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/2522/P15/
 Signature 

The Unknown Fisher Bear - a stove with true grit & a 10” flue. Smoke em if ya got em.  surprised


Fire Honor Society
Avatar
RankRankRankRank
Mass north of Boston
Total Posts:  236
Joined  2008-01-12


Well here is what I did. After reading about the new stoves with secondary burn technology, I decided it would be an interesting project to upgrade my Fisher stove.
I looked at many of the online stove manuals and looked at the stoves on display at Home Depot and Lowes. I came up with a design for a baffle and secondary air tubes that could be installed with minimal modification to the stove. I modeled the stove and baffle in Pro-E CAD.  The baffle is made out of ¼” steel plate, ( it’s made in two pieces so in can fit in the door) , with square tubing attached for the secondary air passage, the air tubes are stainless steel with holes drilled in them. I placed some ceramic insulation on top of the baffle.

  The modifications made quite an improvement, the stove seems to put out much more heat than before, wood consumption is reduced and after 10 or 10 minutes there generally there is no visible smoke from the chimney.
Image Attachments
Picture 081.jpgdrw0001.JPGPicture 082.jpgPicture 086._1JPG.JPG
Click thumbnail to see full-size image
 Signature 

Regency F1100 (upstairs)
Fisher Grandma Bear (basement, semi retired)
Huskey 350 18” (back from the dead)
Remington SL-11A 24”
Homelite Timberman 18”
Homelite XL 16”
McCulloch Eager Beaver electric 16”
Poulan Micro 14”
Profile

PM

Quote

BrotherBart

Posted: 12 May 2008 08:30 PM       [ Report ]   [ Ignore ]   [ # 7 ]
Moderator
Avatar
RankRankRankRankRankRank
Northern Virginia
Total Posts:  11483
Joined  2005-11-18




PM

Quote

yetty734

Posted: 13 May 2008 05:44 PM       [ Report ]   [ Ignore ]   [ # 8 ]
Really Hot
Avatar
RankRankRank
Central OH
Total Posts:  56
Joined  2007-12-09


that looks pretty good wes. any way you can give me a better set of plans. about how much did that cost you?
 Signature 

-john deere lt 150(no one has convinced me its not a farm tractor) 2000 hours and still going. it’s part of a commercial lawn service. have a snowplow/bagger for it and…its my log hauler
-McCulloch Timberbear (20 inch)
-husqvarna 45-currently broken, absolutely no urge to fix…i want a stihl, or a dolmar(14 inch, screams wimpy wimpy when it sees the bear)
-unused need to sell homelite p.o.s…finally sold it
-enough chain and tow strap to hang every terrorist in the
world smile
-man-you-all-splittter: 6 pound maul, 10 pound maul, wedge/sledge
-THE REASON FOR ALL THIS MADNESS: “Fisher something” Stove

have a good day
Profile

PM

Quote

WES999

Posted: 13 May 2008 06:58 PM       [ Report ]   [ Ignore ]   [ # 9 ]
Fire Honor Society
Avatar
RankRankRankRank
Mass north of Boston
Total Posts:  236
Joined  2008-01-12


The secondary air enters the stove through a two 5/8” holes in the back of the stove (see the pic). You can also see the cover plates that can close off the secondary air incase of over firing. (I never had to use them). The air holes and the cover plate holes were the only modifications needed to install the baffle and air tube.

I purchased the stainless steel tubing, rectangular tubing and the ceramic insulation, the plate for the baffle I had. I was able to do all the fab work myself (there is a machine shop at work). I don’t remember the exact cost, probably around $100 of so.

You should be able to get the general idea from the pics; I could probably E-mail some PDF’s if you need more detail. Be aware that the baffle would have to be sized for your stove as it needs to be somewhat of a snug fit.
Image Attachments
Picture.jpg
Click thumbnail to see full-size image
 Signature 

Regency F1100 (upstairs)
Fisher Grandma Bear (basement, semi retired)
Huskey 350 18” (back from the dead)
Remington SL-11A 24”
Homelite Timberman 18”
Homelite XL 16”
McCulloch Eager Beaver electric 16”
Poulan Micro 14”


----------



## PADDLE4 (Jan 18, 2011)

I have a line on one of these homewood stoves for 400.00, going to go look at it tomorrow
any things I should make sure I check out, i am new to wood burning


----------



## Gooserider (Jan 18, 2011)

Old thread, hope you read the previous comments...  

Can't really say that I'd recommend ANY stove or boiler that is as old as these units appear to be, and especially given that the company appears to be out of business, and so on...  

First thing I'd do is check w/ your local code enforcers, (and insurance companies) and find out what THEY require in the way of labeling on the unit (Most will require a UL acceptance tag on the unit, as a very minimum - no tag, the unit CAN'T legally be installed in many places...  Many will also want to at least see a manual giving all the requirements for clearances, chimney requirements, and so forth for any other connections.  Before I'd even spend time looking, I'd make sure that you will be ALLOWED to install the unit.  (This can even be a problem for new equipment BTW, especially the "euroboilers" - even though the EU specs are tougher than UL, many places won't accept an EU certification, unless the company has also gotten a UL listing to go with it....)

If you can get by the inspectors, then I'd look for overall condition - be wary of major rust, look for any evidence of overfiring (i.e. discolored metal, distortion, etc...)  If you go in the Hearth Wiki, there are some good articles on evaluating a used stove, most everything in them applies to a boiler or furnace just as well, so I won't try repeating the same things here.

Gooserider


----------



## blackcrk (Jan 4, 2014)

I know that it's a little late to respond to these posts, but I have a Homewood wood burning furnace that  I bought new in 1979 (or possibly 1980)-   To the best of my knowledge, the company went out of business in the mid to late 1980's.   The weak point of their large furnace (110K btu?) was the motor that runs the blower.   In my humble opinion,  they did a great job on the main furnace unit, but their blower motor supplier had a lower quality standard-  motor failed after just a few years.  Shortly after that failure, I learned that my neighbor bought the same homewood furnace and his motor died after a year or 2 as well.

Ed


----------



## KG915 (Feb 16, 2014)

Recently purchased a home in NY and was given a homewood furnace but it was missing the ember grate. We had a temporary grate in for the last few months but it is now warping from the hear. Does anyone know where we can buy the ember grate for these stoves? I can not for the life of me find them. I have a welder making me a thicker temporary one until we can find a real grate from a dealer. Please help! Thank you!


----------



## claudia s (Oct 24, 2014)

I was looking for more information about the Homewood Furnace as we have one in our basement and selling it on Craigs' List.  We do have the owner's manual.  If you need a copy,let me know.


----------

