# Hudson River WestPoint Control Panel



## Don2222 (Jul 6, 2012)

Hello

So I just picked up a HR WestPoint

The body is in very good condition. It is a nice charcoal gray color. The room blower and the exhaust blower work fine. The ash pan is on the small side for a stove with a 3 bag hopper. The ignitor works fine. The control panel and the burn pot seem to be the major issues.

Well the control panel seems to work well on heat level 1-3 but on 4 & 5 it fills the pot up too much and overflows from what I hear.

Since the 6.5 lbs/hr burn rate is too much for the stove to handle;
Would a good option be to upgrade the control panel to the Enviro HR Kinderhook panel and be done with it?

New model HR Kinderhook Stove 60,000 BTU with max lbs/hr = 5 on the control panel
http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Wood-Stove-and-Accessories/Hudson-River-Kinderhook-Pellet-Stove

Hudson River West Point 70,000 BTU with max lbs/hr = 6.5 on the control panel
http://www.ibuywoodstoves.com/produ...Pellet-Stove-by-Hudson-River-Stove-Works.html

Enviro Circuit board
http://woodheatstoves.com/circuit-board-c11652-501929-p-17731.html?cPath=499_500

Pic 1 = HR WestPoint Control Panel Diagram in Manual
Pic 2 = HR WestPoint Control Panel on Stove
Pic 3 = Enviro Control Panel similar to the one on the HR Kinderhook - Max 5.0 lbs/hr

However since the WestPoint goes up to 6.5 lbs/hr the control panel for the VF-170 that goes up to 7.6 - 8.3 lbs/Hr may be the best upgrade/replacement


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## smoke show (Jul 6, 2012)

Don2222 said:


> Well the control panel seems to work well on heat level 1-3 but on 4 & 5 it fills the pot up too much and overflows *from what I hear*.


 

So theres def a problem with the control panel?


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## Don2222 (Jul 6, 2012)

smoke show said:


> So theres def a problem with the control panel?


 
I think there is, just wondering if anyone else experienced this issue. I am sure there are many of these stoves out there so hoping to hear from someone's experienced. Otherwise I could wait for the cold weather! ! !

Also, the stove puts out excellent heat on low but I hear there is a problem on hi level 5.

level 5 is 6.5 lbs/hr and the new Kinderhook that replaces this stove only scales up to a max of 5.0 lbs / hr on level 5 which is probably plenty of heat!


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## smoke show (Jul 6, 2012)

Don2222 said:


> I think there is, just wondering if anyone else experienced this issue. I am sure there are many of these stoves out there so hoping to hear from someone's experienced. Otherwise I could wait for the cold weather! ! !


 Ahh, gotcha.


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## DexterDay (Jul 6, 2012)

I would wait till someone chimes in.... I know there is at least one person with this stove...

Seems they haven't had a problem. 

Some stoves have a problem on High. Lots of fuel and limited air....

Hook the stove up and see for yourself.

Thats the best way


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jul 7, 2012)

One check the manual to see if there is more than one set of timings if there is see which of the sets is actually set on the control board, two make sure there is a gasket under the rim of the burn pot, three at the top of the auger flight where the flight cover meets the u shaped metal end piece you likely need to use a bit of flat gasket, and four check the area where the auger flight meets the drop tube you'll likely have to use some RTV and seal that joint.


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## Don2222 (Jul 7, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> One check the manual to see if there is more than one set of timings if there is see which of the sets is actually set on the control board, two make sure there is a gasket under the rim of the burn pot, three at the top of the auger flight where the flight cover meets the u shaped metal end piece you likely need to use a bit of flat gasket, and four check the area where the auger flight meets the drop tube you'll likely have to use some RTV and seal that joint.


 
Hi Smoke
Does this look OK or should I add sealant? Click on image to see whole pic.


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## IHATEPROPANE (Jul 7, 2012)

I have the same stove.....for a bit of history I had build up issues originally.  A new burnpot and gasket material around that solved the issue.  Now the stove runs great.  I have noticed that the burn rates in the manual are for pellets that are not very dense....most pellets will give you a burn rate higher.  That being said running on high will give you 7 or more pounds per hour.  I have run mine on high for an hour or two without issue.....realistically you would bever have to run that high....I run mine on high low 24hrs a day 90.. percent if the time on 2......good pellets I can go a week without emptying the ashcan...about 14ten bags.


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## Don2222 (Jul 7, 2012)

IHATEPROPANE said:


> I have the same stove.....for a bit of history I had build up issues originally. A new burnpot and gasket material around that solved the issue. Now the stove runs great. I have noticed that the burn rates in the manual are for pellets that are not very dense....most pellets will give you a burn rate higher. That being said running on high will give you 7 or more pounds per hour. I have run mine on high for an hour or two without issue.....realistically you would bever have to run that high....I run mine on high low 24hrs a day 90.. percent if the time on 2......good pellets I can go a week without emptying the ashcan...about 14ten bags.


 
Thanks for the good report. Much appreciated!

Is your cleaning rod sticky? See
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...-wood-pellet-stove-cleaning-rod-sticky.87962/


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## IHATEPROPANE (Jul 7, 2012)

I also added the sealant as Smokey had suggested.  My only complaint is it does not run great on low.....I think there is too much air going through.....I have a couple of ideas on how to bypass some air or block some air....I had put a small maybe 1.5 inch square brick in the middle of the pot and it did the trick....ran on the lowest setting fine.....


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## IHATEPROPANE (Jul 7, 2012)

I have not had an issue with the cleaning rod


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## Don2222 (Jul 7, 2012)

IHATEPROPANE said:


> I also added the sealant as Smokey had suggested. My only complaint is it does not run great on low.....I think there is too much air going through.....I have a couple of ideas on how to bypass some air or block some air....I had put a small maybe 1.5 inch square brick in the middle of the pot and it did the trick....ran on the lowest setting fine.....


 
Thanks
There is no damper on the intake of these stoves. That is a problem!
Probably needs something like the one I got for the US Stove 5660 which btw has the exact same convection blower with the top mount motor! ! !
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/us-stove-5660-oak-butterfly-valve.87631/#post-1133643

So an upgrade convection blower would be the Magnum MF-3541

See 3 fixes


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## IHATEPROPANE (Jul 7, 2012)

Where did you get the upgraded convection blower


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## smwilliamson (Jul 7, 2012)

I believe the westpoint and the saranac used the same control board with the same timings but different auger flightings. If so, the new St. Croix control board on factory setting #3 has the same timing sequence and flighting as the Saranac. I have a customer with a Saranac with the St. Croix board running on their 3rd season no problems...and the molex is plug and play too.


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## Don2222 (Jul 7, 2012)

smwilliamson said:


> I believe the westpoint and the saranac used the same control board with the same timings but different auger flightings. If so, the new St. Croix control board on factory setting #3 has the same timing sequence and flighting as the Saranac. I have a customer with a Saranac with the St. Croix board running on their 3rd season no problems...and the molex is plug and play too.


 
*Yes, but what new control board can be used for the HR Westpoint?*
The auger flight cover on the Sarnac is 7" long and 8" long on the Westpoint


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## Don2222 (Jul 7, 2012)

IHATEPROPANE said:


> Where did you get the upgraded convection blower


 
The convection blower with the top mounted motor can be upgraded to a less vibrating Magnum MF-3541 blower with side mounted motor, and can be obtained from American Energy System on-line store for $126.

See http://www.americanenergysystems.com/motors.cfm or http://store.elmcreekonline.com/room-blower.aspx


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## Don2222 (Jul 7, 2012)

IHATEPROPANE said:


> I have the same stove.....for a bit of history I had build up issues originally. A new burnpot and gasket material around that solved the issue. Now the stove runs great. I have noticed that the burn rates in the manual are for pellets that are not very dense....most pellets will give you a burn rate higher. That being said running on high will give you 7 or more pounds per hour. I have run mine on high for an hour or two without issue.....realistically you would bever have to run that high....I run mine on high low 24hrs a day 90.. percent if the time on 2......good pellets I can go a week without emptying the ashcan...about 14ten bags.


 
Hello Ihatepropane

I saw in the link below, if you run the stove on Hi (Heat Level 5) for a long time it will trip the Hi Limit switch?
Did you ever have that happen?
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/help-with-hudson-river-westpoint-new-stove.26518/


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jul 7, 2012)

Don,

Adding a butterfly valve in the air intake can give a measure of fine air control that isn't on the stove (including all variants, remember your USSC unit) but the proper program has to be selected as those programs control both the combustion air flow and the convection blower.

I haven't seen the insides of a west point but it is likely the heat exchanger/convection airflow isn't closely matched to the combustion side. Making changes on the convection side should be done paying particular attention to the exhaust temperatures, you don't want to pump air through the convection side so fast that the heat can not be removed by the heat exchanger to the room air. If that happens your exhaust temperatures will rise and your efficiency can go to hell in a hand basket.


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## Don2222 (Jul 7, 2012)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> Don,
> 
> Adding a butterfly valve in the air intake can give a measure of fine air control that isn't on the stove (including all variants, remember your USSC unit) but the proper program has to be selected as those programs control both the combustion air flow and the convection blower.
> 
> I haven't seen the insides of a west point but it is likely the heat exchanger/convection airflow isn't closely matched to the combustion side. Making changes on the convection side should be done paying particular attention to the exhaust temperatures, you don't want to pump air through the convection side so fast that the heat can not be removed by the heat exchanger to the room air. If that happens your exhaust temperatures will rise and your effeminacy can go to hell in a hand basket.


 
X2, I agree. However on this HR WestPoint stove, the Convection blower and Combustion blower are identical to my US 5660 stove! I actually did fire it up before I purchased it! That is a good idea! LOL
It ran fine and it puts out really great heat after warming up and the convection blower came on!
The intake air pipe looks like it is 3 inches with 2 large holes going into the burn box below the burn pot. So that maybe why there is too much air at times and a butterfly valve may be a good help here! This is a challenging stove, but I like a challenge and with your help, I sure we can figure this thing out! ! !

See intake air path pics here
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/hudson-river-westpoint-burn-pot-issues.87953/#post-1139767

I think we can learn alot from the design of stoves that may NOT be quite right.
In this case I believe the 3" intake was put in because of the 6.5 lbs/hr burn rate at heat level 5.

Also 3" air intake tubes are very common on wood stoves, but they usually have 6" flue venting!
So 3" intake for a pellet stove still may not be right!

However when Enviro redesigned this stove, they made a max of 5.0 lbs/hr at heat level 5 and changed the intake pipe to 2 inches! Envir claims the BTUs are 60k.
WestPoint says 70k BTU in Sales literature but 60k BTU in manual. Not very consistant!
I know Enviro control panels and they work very well on all heat settings. The heat exchangers pump out some real hot heat even on the lower heat level settings!

So this may prove we need a damper on the intake. As far as heat level 5 goes, I will have fun testing that out! ! ! !


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## IHATEPROPANE (Jul 8, 2012)

Don2222 said:


> Hello Ihatepropane
> 
> I saw in the link below, if you rund the stove on Hi (Heat Level 5) for a long time it will trip the Hi Limit switch?
> Did you ever have that happen?
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/help-with-hudson-river-westpoint-new-stove.26518/


I did not trip the high limit and I do nit think it would have if I ran it longer.  I am not sure what the temp was at the highlinit switch but remember thinking it was still quite low.  Like I said before ...there is no reason this stove would have to be on high for very long.....you cannot stand less than five feet away without starting to melt........I do like the idea of putting a camper in...wish you luck in your quest....mine runs quite well and I like it a lot.


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## Don2222 (Jul 8, 2012)

IHATEPROPANE said:


> I did not trip the high limit and I do nit think it would have if I ran it longer. I am not sure what the temp was at the highlinit switch but remember thinking it was still quite low. Like I said before ...there is no reason this stove would have to be on high for very long.....you cannot stand less than five feet away without starting to melt........I do like the idea of putting a camper in...wish you luck in your quest....mine runs quite well and I like it a lot.


 
Thank-You IHatpropane

I was concerned from some bum reviews I read on the Internet. Those people probably were not very technical. I am so happy for your comments because, If I clean it and tweak it as you say, It will be a great stove! The manual states it should have a 250 Deg F Hi Limit switch, so I will check the stove. If not I have one I can throw in!

Also the guy I got it from told me 2 things:

1. The head of the ignitor was sticking out of the ignitor tube into the burn pot. So he pushed it back even with the end of the Ignitor tube.
Is that why the ignitor was prematurely failing? Should it be even with the end of the tube? My other stove is even.

2. He said at times it was overfeeding pellets and not burning them up.
Is that because there was no gasket around the burn pot. I got a gasket yesterday and I will put it on today.
I cleaned the burn pot real nice with a wire brush. Also wire brushed and cleaned the burn chamber. Then gave it some flat black Flame Proof header paint.
It will look good for some pics I will take of it burning. Is there a Brick Backing option available?

Pic - Fire Box Painted with Flat Black FlameProof Header Paint


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## Don2222 (Jul 8, 2012)

Hello

Well, the Hi Limit switch is 250 Deg F and I now know from experience that they do not usually go any higher than that in wood pellet stoves.

Pic shows L250F on the metal side that goes against the stove. Thanks

Here is the HR WestPoint that I did not buy! It may be a diamond in the ruff for a handy guy! ! ! !
http://burlington.craigslist.org/for/3104428204.html


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## IHATEPROPANE (Jul 8, 2012)

My igniter went after the first season.  But I was starting my stove twice a day because of my initial problem with air bypass creating a bad burn and buildup.  I probably got about 150 to 200 lights out of it...didn't replace ut because it is just as easy for me to hit with the propane torch.......if I remember I think I was getting a reading of about 150and or 180me with the infrared at that sensor.  The metal on the front where thewe air exitsor was like high 4 hundreds.  I never run over 3.....and even then it is a short time......my place is plus 2000sq ft with questionable insulation


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## Don2222 (Jul 8, 2012)

IHATEPROPANE said:


> My igniter went after the first season. But I was starting my stove twice a day because of my initial problem with air bypass creating a bad burn and buildup. I probably got about 150 to 200 lights out of it...didn't replace ut because it is just as easy for me to hit with the propane torch.......if I remember I think I was getting a reading of about 150and or 180me with the infrared at that sensor. The metal on the front where thewe air exitsor was like high 4 hundreds. I never run over 3.....and even then it is a short time......my place is plus 2000sq ft with questionable insulation


 
Is the head of your ignitor even with the end of the igniter tube?


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## IHATEPROPANE (Jul 8, 2012)

Don2222 said:


> Is the head of your ignitor even with the end of the igniter tube?


Just a hair past


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## Don2222 (Jul 8, 2012)

IHATEPROPANE said:


> Just a hair past


 
Well from what was explained to me by Mike Holton who is QA manager at Englander is:

There needs to be enough space around the igniter so the Hot Air can get into the burn pot and lite the wood pellets. Usually that space is 1/8"

So if the head of the igniter is even with the burn pot, then there may not be enough space to properly ignite the wood pellets. Igniter position is crucial and pulling it back a hair may lite the pellets alot quicker! See my HR WP igniter pics below.


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## IHATEPROPANE (Jul 8, 2012)

Good info....will keep it in mind if I ever replace it


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## Don2222 (Jul 8, 2012)

IHATEPROPANE said:


> Good info....will keep it in mind if I ever replace it


 
You are welcome. 

Do you still use the Lytherm gasket for the convection blower?

I got some Hi Temperature (500 Deg F) Silicon Orange Rubber Sheets 1/8" think to cut my own room blower gaskets!
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JFRB7Q/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

The 1/8" thick is much more vibration absorbing and the gasket is completely reusable for a long long time!

Better than paying $32.24 for an OEM gasket!
http://stovepipeandparts.com/ecom/product/1342/3230/

See pics below

Pic 1 - Fasco Motor specs for Hudson River WestPoint convection blower
Pic 2 - New Re-Usable Orange Silicon Rubber Convection Blower Flange Gasket
Pic 3 - Blower mounted in Stove
Pic 4 - Old crumbled Lytherm Gasket next to new Silicon Orange Rubber Gasket


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## IHATEPROPANE (Jul 9, 2012)

Yeah I just have the regular gasket material.  The rubber gasket you found sounds promising


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## Don2222 (Jul 9, 2012)

IHATEPROPANE said:


> Yeah I just have the regular gasket material. The rubber gasket you found sounds promising


 
Yes, It is good up to 500 Deg F so the 250 Hi Limit switch will shut down way before that!

It is much more Re-Usable, good to stop Vibration being transmitted to the stove and best of all CHEAP!


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## Don2222 (Jul 11, 2012)

Hello

Well, I called Amanda's Fireplaces in Hudson NY.
There is an Updated Hudson River West Point Control Panel for $121.00 that has Auto-On/Off on the T-stat in addition to the existing Auto-Hi/Lo and manual modes.
Part # of new control board is HRSP 137S

You can order by phone. 518-828-9337
http://www.amandasfireplaces.com/


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## Don2222 (Aug 9, 2012)

Hello

I finally found the issue with the Hudson River West Point Original Control panel. Sometimes it acts flakey! Probably not all control panels but enough for Hudson River to come up with the upgraded panel and maybe why this stove got a bad reputation. It really is a good stove!

The owner told me that sometimes it over feeds the pellets. In my short testing I did not see that until the other day. It was weird. Just after the completion of the Startup cycle I tried changing the heat level. The heat level will not change during the start cycle that is how it works. So when I changed the heat level the room blower did not increase in speed when the heat level increased. That is how it should work! Also it seemed like it was over feeding pellets but actually from what I saw, the exhaust fan was not going as fast as it should for the heat level setting. So the flakey problem is how the fans are controlled with the changes in heat level setting.

New upgraded control panel is on order. Problem Resolved! ! !


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## IHATEPROPANE (Aug 9, 2012)

Don2222 said:


> Hello
> 
> I finally found the issue with the Hudson River West Point Original Control panel. Sometimes it acts flakey! Probably not all control panels but enough for Hudson River to come up with the upgraded panel and maybe why this stove got a bad reputation. It really is a good stove!
> 
> ...



Not sure which board you have compared to my board.  But mine works like this.  About 30it seconds inti startup the heat level lights up.  At this time you can select the heat level it will go to after startup is complete.  You can also turn the convection blower on high at this time.  However the blower will go to the selected heat level speed when startup is complete.  So if you want high convection speed on a setting lower than five you have to set it at this time.  I have not had any overfeeding issues......


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## Don2222 (Aug 10, 2012)

IHATEPROPANE said:


> Not sure which board you have compared to my board. But mine works like this. About 30it seconds inti startup the heat level lights up. At this time you can select the heat level it will go to after startup is complete. You can also turn the convection blower on high at this time. However the blower will go to the selected heat level speed when startup is complete. So if you want high convection speed on a setting lower than five you have to set it at this time. I have not had any overfeeding issues......


 
Hello Ihatepropane

Well I got the "Upgraded" control panel for the Hudson River West Point today and it was a little bit of a surprise!

Control Panel Part Description on Invoice from Amanda's Fireplaces in Hudson NY!
*HRSP 137S Sarnac and West Point Replacement Control Board New Pn 63417 -- $120*

The number on the Control Panel PC board component side is 88E 94V0 0840
The number on the white sticker Land side is 301092

*Looks like the Jumper Set on Pins 2-3 means it is set for the HR West Point?*
*It must be a different setting for the HR Sarnac*. See Yellow Arrows Below.
Cannot read ROM Chip number because of blue dots. See Red Arrow in pic below!

It is an Enviro Control Panel!
Looks just like this one for $276.50 ! ! ! !
http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.com/Enviro_Circuit_Board_with_Thermostat_Control_115V_p/50-1477.htm

That is really good because it is Supported and has the Auto-On/Off or Auto-Hi/Lo on the T-Stat in addition to the manual mode operation! My customer will be very happy with the T-Stat operation!

*Do you have pics of your control panels?*


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## IHATEPROPANE (Aug 10, 2012)

By board is the same as your old one with westpoint written on it


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## IHATEPROPANE (Aug 10, 2012)

There is a third board that I think is older.


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## Don2222 (Aug 10, 2012)

IHATEPROPANE said:


> There is a third board that I think is older.


 
What do you mean?


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## IHATEPROPANE (Aug 10, 2012)

My stove came with a different board....it was bad....would occasionally pop the fuse when the convection blower turned on.  I actually have a new one like that never used....so I don't know if it works.  I will upload pictures if it later


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## Don2222 (Aug 10, 2012)

IHATEPROPANE said:


> My stove came with a different board....it was bad....would occasionally pop the fuse when the convection blower turned on. I actually have a new one like that never used....so I don't know if it works. I will upload pictures if it later


 
Ok, that will be good.

I called Amanda's fireplace back and asked for a spec sheet for this control board. They had nothing. All the parts guy knew was this board is made by the same control board manufacturer as the Enviro boards but it is made exclusively for the Hudson River West Point and Sarnac stoves. What bothers me is that the HR West Point is 70k BTU and the Sarnac is 48K BTU so what are the feed rates on this board. He said noone every asked him about this and he did not have an answer! He claims it should be the same as the old board? ? ?
Looks like the jumper setting is there for the different stoves. *T**he board came with the jumper set to 2-3 but how can I be sure that is the higher feed rate for the Hudson River West Point?*

If it is a bog standard generic DSC controller then either Enviro or the Board MFG should have the specs but he felt that BAC Sales did not have anything more because this board is all they got from them!


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## IHATEPROPANE (Aug 10, 2012)

Actually my spare looks the same as your upgraded one.  It was the same as my faulty board so I thought the one I have on there now was the newer one.  But you say it is the original board.  Do you know where I can get an igniter?


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## Don2222 (Aug 10, 2012)

IHATEPROPANE said:


> Actually my spare looks the same as your upgraded one. It was the same as my faulty board so I thought the one I have on there now was the newer one. But you say it is the original board. Do you know where I can get an igniter?


 
Thanks for posting the picture. Yes your spare is the upgraded board by the same company that makes all the Enviro Control Boards. It has the Auto-On/Off feature for T-Stat, good for spring and fall when it is warm during the day! The stove will shut completely off! The Auto-Hi/Lo is only good for the cold winter months to keep the house warm by going to Lo when the T-Stat does not call for heat.

The cheapest way to get an ignitor is to remove the old one. Find out how many watts it is and measure the length and the diameter. Then match it up with one at Grainger. I did that for the 25-PDV and got one for $25 ! !

The Hudson River West Point and Sarnac Stoves I hear takes a 6.25 inch long 300 watt igniter so this 6" long igniter from Grainger will do the trick for cheap money!

You should pull out the ignitor and measure it first!

$27.30 for 5" long
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/TEMPCO-Cartridge-Heater-4NJG4?Pid=search

$36.60 for 6" long
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/VULCAN-Standard-Cartridge-Heater-2E896?Pid=search


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## Don2222 (Aug 10, 2012)

Hi Ihatepropane

I just made up these instructions for our new upgraded Enviro style control boards. Check it out. 

Looks like we have the Enviro DHC 3000 Generation II control board according to this service manual ! ! !
http://www.enviro.com/images/manuals-brochures/tech-manuals/C-10800 Instruction PELLET Service Manual 1 of 2.pdf

Quote from manual
"DHC 3000 Generation II - This board has a horizontal slide switch on the front and only one (1) fuse (see Figure 12). Do not adjust the pins on the back of the Generation II board."

Also I believe I found the Jumper Settings Answer from the picture below! ! !
The 70k BTU Hudson River West Point should have the Jumper on Pins 2-3

The Hudson River Sarnac stove would have the jumper on pins 3-4 because it is 50k BTU! ! ! !


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## Don2222 (Aug 11, 2012)

Hello

The new upgrade board is plug and play so I plugged it right in.

However I did verify that the jumper on my new control board was set to 70K BTU like it should be for the West Point, So I fired it up today!

It worked fine and operation was smooth. The old control board worked too but after seeing it act flakey that one time, I am glad to have a much more reliable control board! Of course the big benefit is the addition of the Auto-On/Off which is a great feature for use in the shoulder months!

The old board had a break in the membrane covering the On/Off button so it looks much better!

This new board makes the stove worth more!

*Thanks All for your comments and help. It was a tough one, but now the case of the flakey acting and sometimes fuse blowing HR control board has been resolved!*


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## IHATEPROPANE (Aug 12, 2012)

Great work Don....you were very thorough and all this info is very useful to me and perhaps others


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## Ray's lawn care (Jan 19, 2013)

IHATEPROPANE said:


> Great work Don....you were very thorough and all this info is very useful to me and perhaps others


I have the West Point and no matter what setting its on the burn pot fills just a metter of how fast if on 1 then like every 14-16 hrs if on 2 then  every 10- 12. Is this similar to  the problems you guys were having? Did getting the new control board fix it? If so where can I get one?


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## Don2222 (Jan 19, 2013)

Ray's lawn care said:


> I have the West Point and no matter what setting its on the burn pot fills just a metter of how fast if on 1 then like every 14-16 hrs if on 2 then every 10- 12. Is this similar to the problems you guys were having? Did getting the new control board fix it? If so where can I get one?


 
The upgraded Hudson River board fixed my problem. I have it on my web site now. Please email me for more info. Thanks


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## Ray's lawn care (Jan 26, 2013)

Don2222 said:


> The upgraded Hudson River board fixed my problem. I have it on my web site now. Please email me for more info. Thanks


The "upgraded" controller  made no change in the length of time my burn pot fills any other suggestions?


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## Don2222 (Jan 26, 2013)

Ray's lawn care said:


> The "upgraded" controller made no change in the length of time my burn pot fills any other suggestions?


 
Did you check to see if the jumper on the back of the new board was set correctly for your stove?

It it is set correctly check all the venting to assure it is clean. Could be dirty causing less air flow.


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## DexterDay (Jan 26, 2013)

Control board wont fix a dirty/plugged stove  

When was the last time all internal passages were cleaned? Vent cleaned?


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## Ray's lawn care (Jan 26, 2013)

I just cleaned everything that I know of is there any hidden ones? I took off the two panels on both side there was minimal ash in there. Any help is greatly appreciated


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## Don2222 (Jan 26, 2013)

Ray's lawn care said:


> I just cleaned everything that I know of is there any hidden ones? I took off the two panels on both side there was minimal ash in there. Any help is greatly appreciated


 
Did you remove the Exhaust Blower and clean all the ash from the blower and the chamber the blower goes into?


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## Ray's lawn care (Jan 26, 2013)

Don2222 said:


> Did you remove the Exhaust Blower and clean all the ash from the blower and the chamber the blower goes into?


I didn't remove the blower this stove is new to me this season and was like new when I received it. I had to turn the stove back on it was getting cold in here I will try that tomorrow. I doubt it's plugged up in there. Any other ideas what would cause this?


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## imacman (Jan 26, 2013)

Ray's lawn care said:


> I didn't remove the blower this stove is *new to me* this season and was like new when I received it. I had to turn the stove back on it was getting cold in here I will try that tomorrow. I doubt it's plugged up in there. Any other ideas what would cause this?


This was a used stove?


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## Ray's lawn care (Jan 26, 2013)

imacman said:


> This was a used stove?


Yes it was used


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## Ray's lawn care (Jan 27, 2013)

I removed the blower and there was nothing in there just normal sut covered walls. I think it's sucking air it's not supposed to. Does this sound correct to any one? Does any one know where I should look. Both gaskets around the main door and the ash tray door look fine and barely worn the glass is not cracked.


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## Don2222 (Jan 27, 2013)

Hello

A weak exhaust blower may also be the problem. Make sure the fire box door is shut tight, sometimes the handle can be loose. Also a bad or flakey Hi Limit switch can mess things up. Ask Doocrew about that! The upgraded panel does not turn the heat level light on right away when the pwr button is pressed. That is how it should work. With the bad high limit switch the heat level light was coming on right away and the stove was not working right! You can jump it out to test it.


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## Ray's lawn care (Jan 27, 2013)

Don2222 said:


> Hello
> 
> A weak exhaust blower may also be the problem. Make sure the fire box door is shut tight, sometimes the handle can be loose.


Is there any way to test the blower fan? Best I can tell its fine


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## Don2222 (Jan 27, 2013)

Ray's lawn care said:


> Is there any way to test the blower fan? Best I can tell its fine


 
You can put an AC Line cord on it but still hard to tell sometimes. Did you check the Hi Limit switch?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 27, 2013)

Check your inbox and post the answers to the questions on here please.


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## Pierre (Sep 22, 2013)

Does anybody have the problem of the blower revving up and down with this stove. I have replaced everything on this stove . I just bought an "upgraded" board from Hudson River so I hope this fixes my problem. I actually had a board burn up ! The next board under warranty worked good for a little while but the the same prob came back. I live in b.c canada where the actually build the stove and they sent me an "upgraded" board . What they did was they grounded it . The problem came back. You can actually see on the back of the board burn marks ! It's seems to be be way too much resistance or something . The blower motor gets so hot that it stops completely . List of things changed
3 blower motors
2 ignitors
1 exhaust fan
Wiring harness
3 boards
Everything was under warranty because they were trying to figure out what was going on with this thing and it is installed properly so this was not an issue.
The over filling problem is an issue also but if you scrape the burn pot quite often you won't have s prob . I just hope this new board I bought fixes my problems . I live in northern Canada so it runs 24hrs a day for 5 to 6 months a year .


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## IHATEPROPANE (Sep 22, 2013)

Same stove....no issues like that....hopefully the new board does the trick.

As for the pellets piling up..there is a bit of space around the burn pot ( horrible design IMHO)  my cure is a simple one.  By a length of thin rope gasket.  Simply tie it tight along the lip of the burn pot and use the gasket cement at the knot.....works beautifully.   No pile ups what so ever  I will take a pic


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## IHATEPROPANE (Sep 22, 2013)

Here is a pic....


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## SmokeyTheBear (Sep 22, 2013)

In addition to what IHATEPROPANE has told you you should also seal the area at the top of the auger flight where the cover goes over the pate.  This can be sealed with RTV (500 or better).

It is also possible that where the auger flight and drop chute join came loose and the seal there to be broken.

These all fix air leak issues.


If the location your stove is in is a negative pressure zone it is also possible that your fire is air starved and you need to OAK the stove.  If you have an OAK on the stove make certain that the screen isn't reducing the area through which air is drawn, this is an issue when certain caps are used to prevent insects and small animals from entering the stove system.

If your stove is piling up it is likely to have entered a reduction burn and this can over heat the burn pot (eventually destroying it) and the stove. Whether this would be hot enough inside the stoves shell to burn the control board I can't say.  If the control board is to close to the firebox it might be able to cause issues for the controller.  If there are loose connections at the controller they can cause sparking and motors first slowing and then when the connection is remade speeding up after awhile this can lead to the  triacs on the control board failing.

I would checkout all connections in the stove.  This includes those where the igniter is connected and all motors and snap discs.


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## IHATEPROPANE (Sep 22, 2013)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> In addition to what IHATEPROPANE has told you you should also seal the area at the top of the auger flight where the cover goes over the pate.  This can be sealed with RTV (500 or better).
> 
> It is also possible that where the auger flight and drop chute join came loose and the seal there to be broken.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I should have added Smokey's remarks about the other air leaks.  I sealed these as well.

If you look at my burnpot you will see two things.  First is the is no ash or clinkers in my pot after burning.  I now get more than enoughbaur through there.  I actually bought a OEM damper to make adjustments.

Second ...the front lip if the pot has been burned through.  The cause was my lazy butt went too long between cleanings . And all the while a little ash drops through the bottom of the pot,  building up and slightly altering the path of air through the pot causing it to lean just a hair, enought to eventually eat that part of the pot.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Sep 22, 2013)

Air leaks, we no like them stinking air leaks, they mess up the air flow through the burn pile and cause all kinds of issues.

For example on the stoves having a burn pot with a u channel around the edge can find their burn pot buckling if there isn't a gasket in the u channel (under the lip) or if the burn pot isn't continuously welded to the rim from the effects of a burn pot air bypass.  This is in addition to pile up in the burn pot.

Your combustion air should enter the stove, go through the burn pot and exit via the exhaust.  No detours allowed.  All detours will cause issues if not now very soon and some of these issues can result in fire where it shouldn't be.


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## jtakeman (Sep 22, 2013)

IHATEPROPANE said:


> Yeah, I should have added Smokey's remarks about the other air leaks.  I sealed these as well.
> 
> If you look at my burnpot you will see two things.  First is the is no ash or clinkers in my pot after burning.  I now get more than enoughbaur through there.  I actually bought a OEM damper to make adjustments.
> 
> Second ...the front lip if the pot has been burned through.  The cause was my lazy butt went too long between cleanings . And all the while a little ash drops through the bottom of the pot,  building up and slightly altering the path of air through the pot causing it to lean just a hair, enought to eventually eat that part of the pot.



Are you sure? Me thinxs he found some nuclear fuel and isn't sharing!


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## IHATEPROPANE (Sep 22, 2013)

jtakeman said:


> Are you sure? Me thinxs he found some nuclear fuel and isn't sharing!


Nuclear fuel would be nice I would share if I found some.....not until after I stocked up first though of course


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## Coachsinc (Dec 27, 2014)

Don2222 said:


> The upgraded Hudson River board fixed my problem. I have it on my web site now. Please email me for more info. Thanks


PLEASE HELP...I have a Hudson River West Point. Must be the older mode, bought it brand new. We used it a little bit last heating season and it began to blow fuses. Now it blows a fuse when we change the fuse out and plug the stove in. Any advice?


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## Bman90_0 (Jan 8, 2015)

Anyone out there with Westpoint pellet stove have trouble with igniter circuit not being energized on startup? No voltage on circuit during startup....any help?


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## bworre71 (Nov 2, 2016)

I know a bit late to this thread, I have this stove and this season went to fire it up and house filled with smoke and the stove kicked off.  I replaced the board to the updated and replaced the room blower.  I have yet to tackle the otherside where exhaust and sensors are located wondering if anyone can give any insight..... I am new to the handymanness of this machine...... I am a bit frustrated but better to research before throwing a wrench..... I have had the stove since 2010 and besides some auger issues it has been a good stove.


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## Don2222 (Nov 2, 2016)

bworre71 said:


> I know a bit late to this thread, I have this stove and this season went to fire it up and house filled with smoke and the stove kicked off.  I replaced the board to the updated and replaced the room blower.  I have yet to tackle the otherside where exhaust and sensors are located wondering if anyone can give any insight..... I am new to the handymanness of this machine...... I am a bit frustrated but better to research before throwing a wrench..... I have had the stove since 2010 and besides some auger issues it has been a good stove.


Maybe not enough air flow. Is the stove clean? I take the exhaust blower out and clean the blades and clean behind the blades and then take a compressor and blow out the chambers by putting the nozzle in where the exhaust fan blades go.


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## bworre71 (Nov 2, 2016)

Cleaned it up, what can I use to reseal the exhaust fan..... does anyone know what voltage should be going to the fan or the wiring color chemo


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## bworre71 (Nov 2, 2016)

Scheme


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## bworre71 (Nov 2, 2016)

And white is the common ground.... all I had to do was look in the manual.... who woulda thunk it


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## Don2222 (Nov 2, 2016)

bworre71 said:


> Cleaned it up, what can I use to reseal the exhaust fan..... does anyone know what voltage should be going to the fan or the wiring color chemo


The exhaust is normally sealed with a white 6" round Lytherm Gasket.


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## bworre71 (Nov 3, 2016)

the high limit sensor in the exhaust fan is not manual reset, can I use something like this https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_...478179876&rnid=2941120011&tag=hearthamazon-20

I am seeing a few threads in regards to high limit not sure if I should replace or not


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## Lake Girl (Nov 3, 2016)

It sounds more like an air issue.  Need to get the gasket back on the exhaust fan.  I would watch the exhaust fan on start up to make sure it is functioning well.  First clean all your exhaust path as folks have found birds/small critters in their venting causing the blockage.


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## bworre71 (Nov 3, 2016)

weekend project is the leaf blower......


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## Lake Girl (Nov 3, 2016)

Good start but if it is a critter, not sure if the leaf blower will do the trick.  May need to run  a brush...


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## bworre71 (Nov 3, 2016)

agreed 
thank you


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## bworre71 (Nov 6, 2016)

So I thoroughly cleaned it replaced gasket on exhaust fan, still not doing what it's supposed to. I tested the exhaust fan motor and it works when I plug into wall, just doesn't ever come on when in stove.... not really sure how works....


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## bworre71 (Nov 6, 2016)

Could be snap disc? I got one coming and also not sure how vacuum works.... I'm so new at this.... I've replaced control panel and blower fan.... seems like separately they all work, together not so much


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## Lake Girl (Nov 7, 2016)

Hope you kept the old control panel as there are services that can repair many of them.  Nice to have as a back up.   You can jumper around the snap switch to rule it in/out as the problem.  Unplug when working in the cabinet.  Some set up jumper wire with appropriate spade connectors on each end.  Probably easiest to wait for the new switch though...


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## bworre71 (Nov 7, 2016)

I did keep the old panel 

I did bypass the snap switch 

does the vacuum switch have anything to do with exhaust fan? It is the only thing I haven't bypassed yet


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## Lake Girl (Nov 7, 2016)

I would try to by-pass the vacuum switch ... remember to unplug!  It is fairly rare for a vac switch to fail but it does happen.  Have you checked the connection port to make sure it is not clogged?  Tubing is intact without cracks or breaks? If that fails to change operation, it is the exhaust fan.  

Why did you replace the convection blower?


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## bworre71 (Nov 7, 2016)

I cleaned the port out and did the blow test to the vaccum sensor.  and the tubing looks ok.

I replaced the convection blower, because I thought that was the issue until I started really investigating


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## bworre71 (Nov 7, 2016)

needless to say I am a few hundred into this and still not working


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## Lake Girl (Nov 7, 2016)

bworre71 said:


> needless to say I am a few hundred into this and still not working


Wish you had come here first!  Confirm your connections/wiring to new control box.  Did a wiring diagram come with it?  I usually take a photo or make up a rough diagram for connections before disconnecting .... learned that the hard way when my son took a motor out of a dryer and failed to do that.  Had to buy a new one as it was so old there was no wiring schematic available


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## bworre71 (Nov 7, 2016)

the new control box was plug and play it was an upgraded replacement, I have a slight diagram of how it works in the manual and I have emailed the company for a service manual but no luck yet.  this has been quite the adventure.


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## bworre71 (Nov 7, 2016)

Up and running.... the vacuum switch called for 2 Gray wires and the exhaust fan has a blue and white..... well I had the white in the wrong spot.... replaced snap and fixed wires and it's heating the house.... thank you all for your help.... next time I will come here first


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