# Caulkless Interlocking Tub Surround vs Swanstone? Does the caulkless hold water and last like stone?



## Don2222 (Feb 19, 2014)

Hello

Just updating the whirlpool, going from a Kholer cast iron with brass jets to a new Juccuzzi with the plastic jets.

Since it has a nice 1" high tile lip, the caulkless tube surround with no corners seams to fit perfect.

The SwanStone is nice, in fact we ordered it, but all the cutting and calking for the shampoo rack and tight corners require cement board behind it, in case it leaks water!
http://www.theswancorp.com/index.php?prod=503

Also bringing the swanstone down to a shower pan or tub tile lip is a BIG issue.
Furring the wall and bringing the cement board into the lip is impractical so a vapor barrier must be used and silicone the back of the vapor barrier to the inside of the lip is recommended but does not sound durable!
See > > http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=43323

Swanstone states there must be cement board behind it and Industrial Super calk in the corners. Very expensive caulking that will not mildew.

The Sterling 3 piece system from Lowe's is an acrylic molded interlock system that is caulkess and does not required cement board behind it.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_89229-721-71224100-47_0__?productId=3124623&Ntt=bath tub wall surround&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=bath+tub+wall+surround&facetInfo=

Therefore this 3 piece acrylic system below with the rounded corners just seems like it really holds water.

BTW. The original 1/2" plywood bath floor flexed every time we walked in. 1962 split entry home. So we put 3/4" interlocking plytanium treaded plywood over the 1/2" event under the tub.
It is Plytanium Brand - Dry Ply tounge & grove water plywood with water repelant coating for approx $50.00 per 4x8 sheet
http://www.buildgp.com/product.aspx?pid=4882
Then we put 1/4" Hardy board cement board under the tub skirt and all over the whole bath for a good base for the porcalin tile floor.

The pics below show how the grooved seams in the caulkless enginered acrylic system fit together tight!

*Any comments or suggestions?*


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## GENECOP (Feb 19, 2014)

Not following you totally but if the instructions are calling for cement board in case of leaks I would not be OK with that. also caulking/silicone, whatever should never be a primary water stop, caulking are secondary barriers at most....If your new tub has a 1" lip that rides up the framing, your surround should ideally drop over this lip...also not sure if you can get it in your location but check out Wedi Board....much better and easier to work with than Durock/cement board...


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## bsruther (Feb 19, 2014)

I installed one of these type shower surrounds when I rebuilt my basement bathroom, 2 years ago. I didn't caulk any of the seams. I mounted the tub and surround directly to the studs, per the instructions that came with it. We used the shower heavily last winter when I rebuilt the upstairs bathroom and had no problems at all. I like how these things are engineered so that all of the water flows back into the tub.


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## Don2222 (Feb 19, 2014)

GENECOP said:


> Not following you totally but if the instructions are calling for cement board in case of leaks I would not be OK with that. also caulking/silicone, whatever should never be a primary water stop, caulking are secondary barriers at most....If your new tub has a 1" lip that rides up the framing, your surround should ideally drop over this lip...also not sure if you can get it in your location but check out Wedi Board....much better and easier to work with than Durock/cement board...



Thanks for the info on Wedi Board, I never heard of that. I posted mor info to hopefully make it more clear. The cheaper interlocking molded tub surround seems to me more water proof than the super expesive and much harder to install Swanstone!


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## Don2222 (Feb 19, 2014)

bsruther said:


> I installed one of these type shower surrounds when I rebuilt my basement bathroom, 2 years ago. I didn't caulk any of the seams. I mounted the tub and surround directly to the studs, per the instructions that came with it. We used the shower heavily last winter when I rebuilt the upstairs bathroom and had no problems at all. I like how these things are engineered so that all of the water flows back into the tub.



Thanks for your coments. I like the engineering on this too. Rounded corners and interlocking that gets tighter as it is pushed down! The 1" tile lip and the surrounnd that overlays it seems to be the best system I have seen. To make the Swanstone this water proof seems to be impossible at any price!


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## Highbeam (Feb 20, 2014)

After too many disasters I only install the acrylic of FG solid surface systems. I really dislike tile and other leak points like windows in a surround.


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