# Scored a log splitter!



## LYHTSPD (Nov 5, 2012)

A friend from work and I have been talking about building our own log splitter for a month or so now.  He was hunting at his leased land this weekend and found an older log splitter hidden in a thicket of small trees.  The trees that had grown up around it were at least 5 years old, so who knows how long this thing has been sitting out in the weather.  He talked to the owner, and he had forgotten he even had it.  He said we can do with it what we please.  

It turns out is it (or at least I think it is, from what I can tell) a Brave Warrior 8hp, 26ton horizontal/vertical log splitter.  The engine is a B&S.  It is in pretty rough shape though.  The tires are shot and I am sure we will have to replace the hoses, but he said that the hydraulic fluid did not look too bad.  There looks to be some minor surface rust as well.

It looks very similar to this splitter, but it is red in color.  From what I have read on these forums, this is a pretty good splitter.  I just hope we don't sink a lot of money into getting it running again.


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## basod (Nov 5, 2012)

Good score.
At a bare minimum you have the starting point of the frame tank and trailer.

If the cylinder was retracted and chrome finish is good you shouldn't be too bad off getting replacement hoses made at a local supplier
Post some pics and I'm sure everyone here can chime in


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## LYHTSPD (Nov 5, 2012)

The cylinder was/is extended, but the cylinder rod does not look pitted or anything.  I am trying to get the pictures from my friend's phone so I can post them.


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## basod (Nov 5, 2012)

Sounds like it died where it sat with the cylinder out.

Does it have a horizontal or veritical shaft engine?  donor vertical shafts are pretty easy to come by off lawn tractors


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## firefighterjake (Nov 5, 2012)

LYHTSPD said:


> A friend from work and I have been talking about building our own log splitter for a month or so now. He was hunting at his leased land this weekend and found an older log splitter hidden in a thicket of small trees. The trees that had grown up around it were at least 5 years old, so who knows how long this thing has been sitting out in the weather. He talked to the owner, and he had forgotten he even had it. He said we can do with it what we please.
> 
> It turns out is it (or at least I think it is, from what I can tell) a Brave Warrior 8hp, 26ton horizontal/vertical log splitter. The engine is a B&S. It is in pretty rough shape though. The tires are shot and I am sure we will have to replace the hoses, *but he said that the hydraulic fluid did not look too bad*. There looks to be some minor surface rust as well.
> 
> It looks very similar to this splitter, but it is red in color. From what I have read on these forums, this is a pretty good splitter. I just hope we don't sink a lot of money into getting it running again.


 
If it has been sitting out there for that many years I think replacing the hydraulic fluid would definitely be on my to do list if I hoped to resurrect this splitter.


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## LYHTSPD (Nov 5, 2012)

Well, I finally got the pictures sent to me. It is a little rougher than what I originally thought. The cylinder rod is pretty bad, and will probably have to be rebuild and re-chromed.  I am sure all the fluids will have to be replaced.  It looks like a horizontal shaft engine, so I hope it is still salvageable.  Luckily, I know a lot of people in the hydraulics manufacturing area and they may be able to help us with the cylinder rebuild and hoses.


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## mellow (Nov 5, 2012)

You have a chance to build a right nice splitter, you already have the frame.  I would scrap everything but the frame and repaint then rebuild with all new parts and engine so it will be dependable and last many more years of splitting.


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## basod (Nov 5, 2012)

By the time you re-chrome and add seals you'll probably be better servered to just buy a new hydo cylinder
Looks like 4x24 somewhere around $260 new.

You could get by for now by cleaning just the rust pitts(do it before retracting at the very least) and I've heard of people filling and sanding them with JB weld.
A little hydo fluid leak isn't that big a deal.


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## bogydave (Nov 5, 2012)

Starting out at the right price   Free!
 Sink less than $5 - 700 in it in new parts & you have a  very well made, new splitter 

Nice score


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## MasterMech (Nov 6, 2012)

I'd take a piece of scotchbrite to the cylinder rod and see if the pitting smooths out. If it does, I'd run it as is until it leaks.

Maybe a quieter muffler for that Briggs (you can order a Lo-Tone muffler from a generator) and new hoses and tires.  Run it and make sure it all works, then change the hydro filter and call it good.  I'd only change that hydro oil if it was discolored or otherwise contaminated.

Doesn't get better than free.


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## Jags (Nov 6, 2012)

Scotch brite pad or emery paper on the rod.  Buff it right up.  Probably last for quite a while.  Not sure about the motor - do what you gotta do.  Go to your nearest farm store and pick up standard hoses for the replacements (cheap).  I can't see having too much cash invested and yet coming out the other end you will have a fine splitter.


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## gzecc (Nov 8, 2012)

LYHTSPD said:


> Well, I finally got the pictures sent to me. It is a little rougher than what I originally thought. The cylinder rod is pretty bad, and will probably have to be rebuild and re-chromed. I am sure all the fluids will have to be replaced. It looks like a horizontal shaft engine, so I hope it is still salvageable. Luckily, I know a lot of people in the hydraulics manufacturing area and they may be able to help us with the cylinder rebuild and hoses.


 The rod doesn't look bad in the photos. Obviously if it leaks it needs rebuilt. I had one rebuilt. It cost $60 in rings. I installed them myself. It looks like there is a c-ring held in place by internal pressure that keeps the outer plate in place in your cylinder. You remove the c-ring by pushing the plate in, towards the rear (with a hammer) then release the c-ring which sits in a groove in the outet wall of the cyliner.


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## LYHTSPD (Nov 12, 2012)

Big progress this weekend. My friend dragged the splitter out of the woods and loaded onto his truck. We got it back to his house and started to really take a good look at it. We flushed the fuel system as best we could, cleaned out the carburetor and gas tank and filled it with fresh gas. The spark plug wire was chewed through, so we patched that for now. We taped up the hydraulic return line that was chewed up and checked a few other things.

We then disconnected the hydraulic pump from the engine and gave her a pull. We had spark and fuel, and it almost started on the first pull of the cord. We had to feed it some starter fluid, but it actually came to life without too much fuss! We let it run for about ten minutes, shut it off and changed the oil. A friend came over who rebuilds hydraulics for a living and said that the cylinder rod looked pretty good, and after a little love with a scotch pad it looked even better. He took a look at the hydraulic fluid and said that it should be fine for doing a test run, but we should change it out just to be safe.

Then we hooked up the pump to the engine, and ran a few cycles. There is a small leak around the hydraulic filter, but is looks to a hose issue. We actually split a few pieces of wood as well!.





Of course, since the tires were flat we just left if in the back of his truck and ran it.  One tire holds air, but the other will probably need at least a tube put in it.  The engine still sounds a little rough, so we are hoping that after a deep cleaning and maybe some Seafoam, it will smooth out a little.  The adventure continues!


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## peakbagger (Nov 12, 2012)

Sounds cool, always nice to ressurect someone elses "junk". When I was a kid, almost all our bicycles got picked out of the trash during junk week. We always were swapping parts around and then trashing the bikes so we could fix them again.


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## basod (Nov 12, 2012)

You can't beat free "piece of junk" in one man's eyes that works .

I'd caution against splitting/loading it until you get atleast the pressure hose changed.

Personal experience -my old boss on the farm would agree with me, the hose is cheaper than impregnated oil injury and ER visit.


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## LYHTSPD (Nov 12, 2012)

Well, the pressurized side of the hydraulic line is hard piped and it is in good shape.  The hose that is questionable is the return line from the extended side of the cylinder back to the tank, which should be under minimal pressure.  We are going to replace that tonight, as well as start on some of the engine cleaning.


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## basod (Nov 12, 2012)

Yeah but you have a line from the pump to your valve block.
Thats the one i'd be worried about.  If its been sitting outside for a long while I wouldn't trust it


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## LYHTSPD (Nov 14, 2012)

basod said:


> Yeah but you have a line from the pump to your valve block.
> Thats the one i'd be worried about. If its been sitting outside for a long while I wouldn't trust it


 
I looked that hose over really well and found a weak spot, so that is going to get replaced as well.

I do have a call for help though.  It looks like the engine is missing a few springs and control rods on the throttle components.  I have all the manuals for the splitter, the engine and the parts list, but I can't make heads or tails of what I am missing and where it goes.  Does anyone have a Briggs and Stratton 8hp engine they could take a picture of so I can find out what I am missing?  The model number for the engine is 192432-1035-E1, and it seems that is a pretty common engine on a lot of different equipment.  I think that any engine with the 192400 model code would work.  Any help would be appreciated.


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## basod (Nov 14, 2012)

Don't know if this is the same model.  It's identical to the one I fixed a few weeks ago on a free early 90's 8hp briggs Snapper mower.


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## LYHTSPD (Nov 14, 2012)

Thanks basod, but my linkage looks a bit different than that. I don't know why I didn't think to hit youtube though.

Here is a screen shot from the parts guide of the control bracket and the governor lever that is on my engine.


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## basod (Nov 14, 2012)

Here's a couple pics - I know not exactly great detail, and not the exact same. It does appear similar and the engine numbers are the same
In the above exploded view 227 governor linkage the linkage 212B conects from the top hole to the throttle on the carb, the srpring goes over it and attaches to the lower hole and smaller hole on the throttle.
One of those springs(209's or 211) should connect to the lower govermor arm hole(227) and I'd assume somewhere on the back or front of the manual throttle assembly 222C.


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## LYHTSPD (Dec 10, 2012)

Thanks again for all the pics and advice basod.  I finally realized that nothing was missing.  I guess I just did not know how the governor really worked.

Now, I have another problem.  I was taking the carburetor apart to put some new parts in, when I found out that the main jet was seized.  After stripping out the slot in the brass, I then broke a screw extractor out in the jet.  So now, I need a whole new carb.  Do you guys know where I can get a used carb, or one similar enough that would work?  Here is the info on the motor and carb:
Motor - B&S 8HP motor, 192432-1035-E1
Carb - Walbro LMT, 5-4993

Any help you guys can give, would be greatly appreciated.


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## MasterMech (Dec 10, 2012)

LYHTSPD said:


> Thanks again for all the pics and advice basod. I finally realized that nothing was missing. I guess I just did not know how the governor really worked.
> 
> Now, I have another problem. I was taking the carburetor apart to put some new parts in, when I found out that the main jet was seized. After stripping out the slot in the brass, I then broke a screw extractor out in the jet. So now, I need a whole new carb. Do you guys know where I can get a used carb, or one similar enough that would work? Here is the info on the motor and carb:
> Motor - B&S 8HP motor, 192432-1035-E1
> ...


 
Walbro LMT carbs are pretty popular.

The date code on the engine will matter. Briggs Part #'s as follows:

498838 - Carburetor | (LMT 119) Used After Code Date 97052500 Used Before Code Date 98032300
690119 - Carburetor | Used After Code Date 98032200

Early carb is roughly $136 and the later carb is roughly $100.

http://www.jackssmallengines.com

This link may or may not work - Link to your specific engine/carburetor IPL


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## basod (Dec 11, 2012)

When you start talking $100+ for a new carb.
I'd start to think new/donor engine.

I guess you drilled the jet out to get the easy out in? If you can get a pair of jewelers needle nose pliers in and turn the broke off bit to the right they typically come right off
I've been able to clean a stuck jet in place with a set of acetylene torch tip cleaners


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## Jags (Dec 11, 2012)

basod said:


> I've been able to clean a stuck jet in place with a set of acetylene torch tip cleaners


 
Yep - wont work on a carb without it and compressed air.


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## MasterMech (Dec 12, 2012)

I've been seeing excellent results from a good long soak in carburetor cleaner.  The old school kind in a paint can with a dipping basket.  I disassemble the carb as far as practical and soak it overnight.  Carburetors with built-in plastic/rubber parts need not apply.


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## nate379 (Dec 12, 2012)

The stink of that stuff sticks on you like chit on a hog.

7-8 years ago now I rebuilt a carb on a Toyota FJ40 and flew to Maine for Christmas a day or two later. I barely had a chance to step in the door at my parent's place and my Dad was complaining to high heaven how I stinked of carb dip.
No idea how that worked out, I didn't even have my work clothes with me, let alone on.

I later found that CLR cleaner works better (and doesn't stink so bad!)



MasterMech said:


> I've been seeing excellent results from a good long soak in carburetor cleaner. The old school kind in a paint can with a dipping basket. I disassemble the carb as far as practical and soak it overnight. Carburetors with built-in plastic/rubber parts need not apply.


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## nate379 (Dec 12, 2012)

Exactly what I was going to suggest as well.  That cylinder doesn't look that bad.



MasterMech said:


> I'd take a piece of scotchbrite to the cylinder rod and see if the pitting smooths out. If it does, I'd run it as is until it leaks.


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## LYHTSPD (Dec 12, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Walbro LMT carbs are pretty popular.
> 
> The date code on the engine will matter. Briggs Part #'s as follows:
> 
> ...


 
Yeah, buying a new carb just does not make financial sense for this motor.  I have been calling around locally to find a used one, but no go so far.  The date code on the engine is 990224YD, so I guess that would make it the 690119 carb part number.

I will try to get the screw extractor out tonight.  After I broke it off, I was so made I just decided to call it a night before I fixed it with a 3lb hammer.

If anyone could look around locally, I would pay you for the carb and your time.  I don't want to jump ship on this motor yet, because I have already put some money into replacing some parts already.


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## MasterMech (Dec 12, 2012)

Just a thought but a bit of heat (not a lot, it's cast aluminum we're working with here, and make sure the carb is dry!  ) might free that jet.  Sometimes they are held in with a thread-locking compound (have only seen that a couple times) that the heat will loosen up.


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## LYHTSPD (Dec 12, 2012)

MasterMech,  I actually had a propane torch on the carb as I was trying to break the jet free.  If I can get the extractor out, my next plan is to drill out the jet as much as I can and see if it will break free.


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## MasterMech (Dec 12, 2012)

LYHTSPD said:


> MasterMech, I actually had a propane torch on the carb as I was trying to break the jet free. If I can get the extractor out, my next plan is to drill out the jet as much as I can and see if it will break free.


 
Left-Hand twist drill sized just big enough to slip through the stem.   Lefty bits are worth their weight in gold for this kind of stuff.


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## LYHTSPD (Dec 12, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Left-Hand twist drill sized just big enough to slip through the stem.  Lefty bits are worth their weight in gold for this kind of stuff.


 
Yeah, a few of the guys I work with have them.  I might just pick up a cheap set to have around.  Harbor Freight has set for $10.  If it works on this carb, it will have more than payed for itself.


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## basod (Dec 12, 2012)

Not knocking the solvent bucket route for a one time/occasional use.

I've had awesome results with a heated ultrasonic cleaner and solvent free degreaser/water mix.
Won't destroy plastic carbs, but the heat will mush any gaskets.


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## LYHTSPD (Dec 12, 2012)

basod said:


> Not knocking the solvent bucket route for a one time/occasional use.
> 
> I've had awesome results with a heated ultrasonic cleaner and solvent free degreaser/water mix.
> Won't destroy plastic carbs, but the heat will mush any gaskets.


 
Yeah, I don't have anything that fancy.


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## MasterMech (Dec 12, 2012)

basod said:


> heated ultrasonic cleaner


 
That's on my x-mas list. (My family just rolls their eyes. )


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## basod (Dec 13, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> That's on my x-mas list. (My family just rolls their eyes. )


If you're getting back into the small engine repair  - carburators being probably 80% of the engine related repairs, they can't be beat


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## LYHTSPD (Dec 13, 2012)

Well, now I am definitely on the hunt for a new carb.  I could not get the screw extractor out for anything, so I took the hacksaw to it.  Sigh.  Oh well.


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## Jags (Dec 13, 2012)

I gotta ask.  How did you figure that you were going to fix a carb with a hacksaw?


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## basod (Dec 13, 2012)

If you can't fix it make sure no one else can


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## LYHTSPD (Dec 13, 2012)

Jags said:


> I gotta ask. How did you figure that you were going to fix a carb with a hacksaw?


 
Jags, I was beyond the "fixing" mindset at that point.  That freaking jet was coming out, one way or another.


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## LYHTSPD (Dec 13, 2012)

So, does anyone know how interchangeable the Walbro carbs are?  Mine has a "50" stamped on it.  Will one with a "49" work?


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## MasterMech (Dec 13, 2012)

LYHTSPD said:


> So, does anyone know how interchangeable the Walbro carbs are? Mine has a "50" stamped on it. Will one with a "49" work?


Walbro built a ton of carbs and Briggs built a chitload of those 8 HP flatheads. You shouldn't have much trouble locating a replacement.

Hard to tell by the stampings but you really only need the proper jet sizes and bolt pattern to make it work.  Everything else can be hacked together if need be.


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## LYHTSPD (Dec 29, 2012)

Alright, after much looking and a bunch of phone calls I have finally found a used carb!  It is a little different than the original, but I can make it work.  The throttle lever piece is a bit different, but nothing a socket head cap screw and a couple of lock nuts could not take care of.  It runs, but it runs rough.  I need to tune the carb a little bit and then we will be splitting wood!


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