# Replacing Boards on Trailer - BIG TEX



## daveswoodhauler (Nov 2, 2009)

I was able to pick up my new to me 4 X 8 Big Tex LT 15 trailer this weekend, and am pretty happy with it. (Would post pics, but need new software)
Anyhow, the trailer has been outside for a while, and I would like to replace the boards on the floor of the trailer.... Looks like the boards are 2" pine. Couple questions I have:

Seems like the wood fits in a steel channel, so even if I remove all the torx bolts (rusted on), I am not sure if I can get the boards out. Not sure if I slide each board to the back/front I can then lift on one end?

I would like to lighten up the trailer a bit, but don't want compromise the structural integrity of the trailer. I was thinking of just replacing the 2" pine boards with some pressure treated decking, but I am thinking that the load capacity will be greatly decreased if I use a smaller thickness of wood. (reason I was to lighten it up is that I am pulling with a subaru forester, and since the boards are pretty well worn and wet, I thought I would see if there is an option to replace with lighter wood but not sacrifice integrity of the trailer. (Composite decking? but may be pricey)

Will try to post some pics tonight.

Thanks.

BTW, from the prior thread, I removed the dust caps and there is no zirk fitting for the bearings, so I am going to pick up some bearing buddies this week.


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## SolarAndWood (Nov 2, 2009)

Are the boards done or just wet?  I find that if I can aim the bed of the trailer south and use the tongue jack to give it some pitch while storing it, that it dries out pretty well.  If it is slimy, hit it with some bleach or deck wash.  I don't think the deck is the right place to save weight if you are going to be dropping heavy rounds in there.  If you are only tossing splits in, maybe.


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## johnn (Nov 2, 2009)

Pressure treated wood I`ve handled is always heavier,,of course you mentioned going thinner.  If you decide to replace, try cutting a section out of the selected boards with a saber saw to give you some relief in removing them.


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## rustynut (Nov 2, 2009)

watch those bearing buddies
if you drop one on a bumpy road you go dry !


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## Highbeam (Nov 2, 2009)

Some wood is welded into the deck so you can't replace the boards without removing the last piece of metal. Most of the time you can replace boards, especially on a name brand like Big Tex, by shoving one end into place, bending the board over some fulcrum like a timber, and then shoving it into the other pocket. While it's all looking good, have somebody remove the timber that you are bent over and the board will pop into place.

I've never done it but will have to try it. Maybe call Big Tex and ask them how they recommend doing it.


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## fossil (Nov 2, 2009)

Highbeam said:
			
		

> ...Most of the time you can replace boards, especially on a name brand like Big Tex, by shoving one end into place, bending the board over some fulcrum like a timber, and then shoving it into the other pocket. While it's all looking good, have somebody remove the timber that you are bent over and the board will pop into place...



This is precisely how I replaced the deck on my old 1988 Big Tex 8'x12' utility.  In my case, it required nine 12' long 2"x10" boards.  I bought P.T., most likely some flavor of SPF.  The two outside boards had to be ripped to width to keep it all symmetrical, and all had to be cut to length.  The first 3 or 4 could be set in place diagonally to engage the channels on the ends of the trailer, and then pushed into position.  The last few had to be done pretty much just as Highbeam described.  Then I added a row of fasteners along one of the transverse structural members beneath the deck just to make sure everything stayed where I wanted it.  This was back in about 1998, so my memory of the details of the job is questionable, but it seems to me I used a hydraulic bottle jack to help me with the flexing of the boards that needed to go in the hard way.  (Also, I didn't have a helper, so I probably used some ratchet straps or whatever, as well).  I relieved the thickness of a couple of boards (with a router) about an inch or so in from the ends when they didn't seem to want to just pop gracefully into the channels.  The wood I had was still very wet from the treatment process, so they have since shrunk some.  That doesn't bother me, as I don't use the trailer to haul stuff that will fall through the spaces between boards.  I slapped a coat of some sort of deck stain on it, which now (after ~11 years) is looking a bit ratty, but the bed is perfectly sound, and the trailer in those years has hauled everything from an old Ford chassis to furniture to firewood & etc.  Pics on request, if that would be at all useful.  Rick


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## fossil (Nov 2, 2009)

Don't need to call 'em, just send 'em an e-mail.  Rick

http://www.bigtextrailers.com/


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## daveswoodhauler (Nov 3, 2009)

Thanks for the help and insight folks. I got underneath, and the boards appear sounds, so perhaps I will keep them on and just give the boards a good pressure wash and seal when the weather is warmer. (I was thinking it would be an easy job to replace, but after looking at it, its something I can live with for a while)
Now, I just gotta slap some sides on the thing and get the bearings done.
Thanks.


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## John_M (Nov 15, 2009)

rustynut said:
			
		

> watch those bearing buddies
> if you drop one on a bumpy road you go dry !



X1. And make certain the wheel bearings are properly adjusted. Too much slop in the bearing adjustment and the "Bearing Buddy" will most likely be forced "wiggled" out of the hub. There are ways to prevent this with set screws, etc., but that is another thread. If it falls out you will not find it. Been there. Done that. 

John_M


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## gzecc (Nov 16, 2009)

Ilikewood, Nothing is easy!


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