# Cathedral Ceiling Support Box



## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 26, 2013)

Hey guys about the ceiling support box if I cut a square hole in the roof for the box to go up through then I fold all 4 sides on the shingles. How will I be able to put the flashing up and make the shingles it goes circular to have those shingles flush against the flashing.


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 26, 2013)

Okay so I took another look at the square support box and the flashing. I see what you mean. If i fold the extra support box down on the roof it will be underneath the flashing which is what you are saying might give me a problem.

So, should I just cut a square hole and pull it up through and cut the excess of the box off. If not, how can I cut the box and just put a circular hole through the roof. Can I figure out how to cut the box without it going through the roof?


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 26, 2013)

On youtube though I saw this where he cut a square and I think I just need to cut off the excess of the box and not nail it to the roof.


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## cableman (Oct 26, 2013)

Just did it! I put the flashing on top of the shingles with all my pipe level, marked the shingles that have to be cut. Use a spackle knife to separate the shingles, then slide the flashing up! Screw at the bottom and the top, lay some blackjack over screws and top of flashing where it meets the shingles.
	

		
			
		

		
	





The brick is just pressing down on the calked shingles!


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## begreen (Oct 26, 2013)

You don't fold over 4 flaps and nail to the roof. Cut the upper edge flush with the opening.


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 26, 2013)

Okay I thought that you fold all 4 so I cut the top one so it is snug with the shingles or the wood stud I am guessing shingles but wanted to check.


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## cableman (Oct 26, 2013)

It didnt come with directions lol. I cut my box at the shingles so its just not folded over. Must be a pain folding it over!


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 26, 2013)

I am debating is there any advantages disadvantages with just cutting it or folding it?


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## begreen (Oct 26, 2013)

cableman said:


> It didnt come with directions lol. I cut my box at the shingles so its just not folded over. Must be a pain folding it over!


Not at all, it's a piece of cake. Once cut you just fold it with a push of your hand and bang it down flat with the hammer. I had our greenhouse cath. support box installed in about 30 minutes. 

The advantage of folding it over on 3 edges is strength. For some roofs it is a hassle to box frame all the way around the support box. In that case the roof is what is holding most of the weight. If you can solidly box frame all the way around the support box then it can hang off the box frame with at least 3-4 #10 sheet metal screws per side.


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## cableman (Oct 26, 2013)

Makes install a hell of a lot easier! Still have my clearances idk!
Ok begreen, thanks for that info! I got a good frame going!


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## begreen (Oct 26, 2013)

Be sure to have a small level to check plumb before final attachment.


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 26, 2013)

Okay, so I will fold the three sides to so I know it is sturdier. Also begreen when you say level you mean to check and make sure the box inside the house is level or do you mean the chimney pipe as well?


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## begreen (Oct 26, 2013)

Both the support box and the chimney pipe should be vertically plumb. A magnetic torpedo level is handy here.


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## cableman (Oct 26, 2013)

2-3/4 on low end sticking threw with 
box pushed all way up, should begood?


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 26, 2013)

Thanks I see what you mean if the box is level so will the chimney pipe. Got it!!


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## begreen (Oct 26, 2013)

The low end measurement depends on the pitch of the roof and connecting pipe. If this is for a double-wall connector then it looks ok. If it's for single wall then maybe not. Take a look at the chart for the "y" dimension in the Supervent installation instructions.


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## cableman (Oct 26, 2013)

Got it! Yup i have double wall


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## begreen (Oct 26, 2013)

04HemiRam2500 said:


> Thanks I see what you mean if the box is level so will the chimney pipe. Got it!!



That's right, though you can tweak the vertical plumb of the chimney pipe a little with the flashing too. Check plumb of the chimney pipe once more before nailing down the flashing.


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 26, 2013)

Right I have a 2/12 pitch roof so I am going to have the box 1 inch into the room and the chimney pipe 2 inches in the room like the manual states. You were saying that I have to make sure that the bottom of the box where the pipe goes in is level though. And this will make the chimney pipe level as well correct?


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## begreen (Oct 26, 2013)

I think if you look back you will see that I am saying vertically plumb. Bottom level is good too, but there is a difference.

Be careful here. Two people are using the same thread. My response on the interior was to cableman's install. Hemi, are you also using double-wall pipe to connect from the support box to the stove? If you are using DSP connector then yes, that sounds right.


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 26, 2013)

NO begreen I am using single wall. So I need to check the bottom of the box and chimney to make sure all is level.


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## begreen (Oct 26, 2013)

If you are using single wall you have to double-check this. You will need more clearance from the wall than cableman. But if you are going by the chart it should be ok. Just be sure that that the chimney extends far enough into the room and that the single-wall pipe is always more than 18" away from the ceiling and the walls. Single-wall gets a lot hotter than double-wall


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 26, 2013)

Yes, I have it just over eighteen inches form the wall it is like 18 and a quarter or a half but it is close. I had to make it close because I need it to go through the first stud not the second. What does this have to do with making sure the box and chimney pipe are leveled?


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## begreen (Oct 26, 2013)

Single wall uses a different part of the chart for the box penetration in the ceiling. It's all part of the checklist to make sure it is safely installed. With two people installing in different setups but in the same thread it's better to be redundant.


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 26, 2013)

The chart for single wall just tells how many inches of the box and chimney pipe I need in my room. However I need to check the level on both the box and chimney pipe correct? Also, as far as clearance as long as I am past 18 inches I am okay correct? I thought the code was written to where if you have at least 18 inches not more than 18?


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## begreen (Oct 26, 2013)

Correct. 18" is the minimum clearance for single-wall pipe. No harm in exceeding the minimum. Yes, check that the pipe and support box are plumb.


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 26, 2013)

Okay thanks again for clarification you are right I did not notice that you were just talking ot the other poster and not me too. Thanks again will let you know how it goes!!


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## cableman (Oct 26, 2013)

Sorry if i made the thread confusing  Once begreen posted the folded over sides i thought i screwed up ! Good info thread though! 
wonder why the instructions dont say any thing about folding over the sides!


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 26, 2013)

I agree how hard would be it too put it in the instructions!! I messed up to with this thread I thought begreen was referring to me. Glad we got all of this cleared up for anyone else that may encounter this issue!! Thanks


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 28, 2013)

Hey all going to install the flashing tomorrow. I wanted to check how to install it I need to pull up but not off shingles so that the flashing will slip under them I will add roof tar blackjack to the underside of the flashing. The shingles need to come to the half way point of the circular part of the flashing correct? Then, I nail the flashing down where it is exposed and apply the roof tar. The shingles that are on top of the flashing, do I nail them down with a nail on top of the shingles or do I squeeze roof tar under them to lay them down? Thanks all just want to make sure do the job correctly.


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## cableman (Oct 28, 2013)

I would mark on top where its gonna sit, the shingle that would cover the bottom is the one that the flashing will sit on and the rest go on top. Might be hard to just bend shingles up if its colder out. I would say they should a least come to the mid part and the rest under. Black jack is good under the flashing if you can get it there, I didn't and just tarred around the top and sides of flashing where shingles meet. If you can bend a shingle up top and get a nail that would be great, or top nail and blackjack it. Are you folding over the support or cutting it flat to match pitch?


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## begreen (Oct 28, 2013)

FWIW I only used a good silicone for sealing. M&G says nail the top and sides.

On an existing roof, center and install the Flashing before extending the chimney above the roof. Allow space to permit sliding the next Chimney Section up through the Flashing. Always insure the chimney remains vertical (use a level), and that at least a 2-inch clearance to combustible materials is maintained all around. Install the upper  edge of the Flashing under the roofing. Nail to the roof along the upper edge and down each side with 1-inch roofing nails. Do not nail the lower edge of the Flashing (Fig 12). Be sure to follow local building practices, as needed. Seal all nail heads with a nonhardening waterproof sealant. On flat or tarred and graveled roofs, nail and seal the Flat Roof Flashing to the roof on all sides with roofing compound. Do not put screws through the Flashing into the Chimney Pipe.

And this is from Selkirk:


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 28, 2013)

I have decided not to bring tthe square support box up through, instead I am going to cut a circle and leave the square box inside the roof. Will there be a problem with this? If you look at thee videeo below are the shingles on the roof down far enough on the flashing or should they go lower this is where I want to make sure I do it right. Now, for thee part of the flashing that is under the shingles do I send nails on top of the shingles through the flashing then put roof tar on top of that? thanks all.


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## cableman (Oct 28, 2013)

I cut the hole using my bosche mutitool, you can cut from inside just through the plywood then cut the shingles to the round part of the flashing. Works well if ya have one like it. If you just cut the square frame out mount the box and stick a pipe length in and level it, mark the inner part where the shingle have to be cut around the flashing. Separate em with a spackle knife and slide it in place under the shingles! you can nail on top of shingles and cover with silicone. I used pl roof and flashing polly caulk! I love PL stuff!


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 28, 2013)

In the directions with the pic that you posted begreen it says to nail the flashing under the shingles. How do you do that? Can you lift the shingles that high? Or do they mean nail it on top of the shingles?

Also, is it okay if I do not put the support box through the roof?


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## cableman (Oct 29, 2013)

The shingles may break if lifted too high in colder weather. The nail does only go just under the bottom edge of the tile being lifted. If you cant lift it i dont see a problem top nailing, just cover with sealant. If you didnt cut the box yet you could mark it after hole is cut or mark it when its level down below and cut back to whats needed to stick down and make it to the bottom of the flashing.


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 29, 2013)

Okay but for the cathedral ceiling box, do I need to bring it through the roof or flush with the roof or can I just cut a circle in the roof?


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## cableman (Oct 29, 2013)

I would bring it flush with the sheathing or close to it. I cut a square out the same size as the support box, the flashing covers it. Is yours framed square like the support box right to the roof?


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 29, 2013)

Okay guys got it in today man that was an all day event. Here a a few questions. First off is it okay that I am at exactly two inch clearance? Please tell me the codes are not written more then 2 inch because there was a stud in the way. I did not bring the box up through instead since my cathedral ceiling is double studded I boxed it in on the top and bottom there are like 20 2 and 1/2 inch screws hold that sucker on. My first question is that I applied roof tar to the bottom and top of the storm collar. However, I noticed that from the inside you can move the chimney up and then down? Is this okay or did I miss something please please tell me know. Also, when I put the flashing in I noticed that there were three layers of shingles I got under all three but when I cut them, they were about 1/2 inch from being flush to the round part of the flashing. So, I just roof tared the gap. Lastly, I did what I though I would do, I did not leave room for the removal of the flue pipe. However, I can move the chimney u so is it okay to remove it like this or do I need to buy a telescoping piece of single wall pipe. However, the fit is designed to fit a 2 foot section perfectly? So maybe if I get two one foot sections there will be enough slack or no. My thinking is if it is okay to move the chimney pipe up I do not have to worry about the flue telescoping part? Also, when I went to lock the pipe adapter by turning it I ended up turning the whole chimney again will this mess up that tar around the storm collar I think yes? 


My main concern is if I should lift the chimney to put the two foot section of stove pipe in or no just buy a telescoping part ist there one that size though Thanks 

Sorry for rambling but am new at this!!


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## webby3650 (Oct 29, 2013)

OK. 
2" is the minimum, if you have that then no problems.
Roofing tar is fine between the flashing boot and the shingles, I prefer to leave a half inch gap and fill with tar, if you don't then leaves and crap get in there and cause problems later.

Roofing tar should not be on the chimney itself. It's flammable! And doesn't seal metal to metal well. You need to use Silicone instead.
Your chimney pipe should come through your flashing without sealant, the sealant goes between the storm collar and the pipe. You have a ventilated flashing right? So, if it was gonna leak under the storm collar, it would just come in the vent holes anyway.

You should shoot a few screws through the neck of the flashing and into the chimney's outer jacket so it cannot be lifted out. This bugs the heck outa me when I'm cleaning one! You will need a slip section of stove pipe, it will make your life so much easier!
It does seem to take a long time, but after a few hundred of them you'll get faster!


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 29, 2013)

Is okay that roof tar is around the flashing now? Will I be able to remove it? Do they make a slip section the size of a two foot section? So, will the sealant directly hold the storm collar on the pipe?

Please let me know as soon as you can cause I did it at about 5 today and it is starting to get dark If I need to remove it now let me know!!

Also, I did roof tar around the circle part of the flashing and the vertical line that goes up the circle part of the flashing.


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## webby3650 (Oct 29, 2013)

04HemiRam2500 said:


> I did roof tar around the circle part of the flashing and the vertical line that goes up the circle part of the flashing.


That is where the the tar is to go. not around the storm collar. I wouldn't get up there now, but in the daylight pick it off and replace it with silicone.


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 29, 2013)

How easy is it to remove how do I do it?


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## webby3650 (Oct 29, 2013)

04HemiRam2500 said:


> Do they make a slip section the size of a two foot section?


Slip sections for single wall are 18". In Double wall they make telescoping kits as well as a short slip that goes in a standard piece of pipe, they are typically like 2-10" of adjustment.


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## webby3650 (Oct 29, 2013)

04HemiRam2500 said:


> How easy is it to remove how do I do it?


? I would use a putty knife and slowly "cut" it off. You could use a colored silicone so it will cover any left over tar. Just for looks.
I often put a sheet metal screw above the collar to hold it down, If it sits good and flat then the silicone will hold it just fine.


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## webby3650 (Oct 29, 2013)

I use Aluminum colored Silicone most of the time.


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 29, 2013)

Good thing Is that it is on the backyard side of my house so looks do not concern me. But, Will ity come off easily with the putty knife? Also, what about any thin layers can I scrubb them off with a brillo pad or something or should I not worry about it. I was just concerned cause flammabe part. I


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## webby3650 (Oct 29, 2013)

Don't be concerned with small amounts. Honestly I am more concerned with it leaking in the very near future than it burning. It doesn't do good in this situation.


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 29, 2013)

Okay, so are you just saying that the roof tar just should be removed because it does not stick well to the chimney pipe? Also, for the silicone caulking do I put a layer on top and bottom of flashing.


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## webby3650 (Oct 29, 2013)

It is made for asphalt shingles, or metal to asphalt not metal to metal. And again, there isn't a need to use sealant between the pipe and the flashing, only between the collar and the pipe. Make sure to tool it, so many people put it on there with the gun and thats it! Don't be afraid to run your finger through it to make sure it's adhered good. It won't bite!


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 29, 2013)

Thanks man last question is does the caulking have to be any silicone type based or is there a special one I need?


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## webby3650 (Oct 29, 2013)

Pure silicone, high temp isn't needed.


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 29, 2013)

I have right now dow corning 100% silicone rubber black and it is high temp will this work and If so, I just apply it to the top of the collar where it meets the chimney pipe?


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## BIGDADDY (Oct 29, 2013)

begreen said:


> You don't fold over 4 flaps and nail to the roof. Cut the upper edge flush with the opening.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I don't think the upper flange should be cut off.
The the flanges should be nailed at the outer edge all around. Then shingle over top avoid nailing through the metal any lower then your original nailing.
I believe if the upper flange is cut a leak may occur. If he has a leak in a year or two he will be up there caulking frequently to stop the leak.
He did a neat job cutting an placing the shingles but if that metal flange was cut off its gonna be a problem. Probably after the caulk dries and cracks.


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 29, 2013)

This was part of my concern, but my flashing has air holes on the sides of it. So, If rain comes sideways, it would just fall in the box anyway like it would do now. This makes me wonder why I have air slots in my flashing isn't this a big non no or does the storm collar protect this 100% ?

Again, Instead of bring the square box through the roof I left it in the room and just cut a circle hole>


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## webby3650 (Oct 29, 2013)

BIGDADDY said:


> I don't think the upper flange should be cut off.
> The the flanges should be nailed at the outer edge all around. Then shingle over top avoid nailing through the metal any lower then your original nailing.
> I believe if the upper flange is cut a leak may occur. If he has a leak in a year or two he will be up there caulking frequently to stop the leak.
> He did a neat job cutting an placing the shingles but if that metal flange was cut off its gonna be a problem. Probably after the caulk dries and cracks.


The Box has nothing to do with keeping water out. The flashing is what makes it weather tight.

The slots are for ventilation, the storm collar should keep the rain out. It's rare to have an issue from the ventilated flashing.


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## BIGDADDY (Oct 29, 2013)

webby3650 said:


> The Box has nothing to do with keeping water out. The flashing is what makes it weather tight.
> 
> The slots are for ventilation, the storm collar should keep the rain out. It's rare to have an issue from the ventilated flashing.


Sorry my bad. I thought he was saying to cut the flange on the flashing.


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## cableman (Oct 29, 2013)

How bout some pics! Glad ya got it in. I came up with a way im installing support and pipe after flashings already been installed! I didnt have to rush that day getting it all locked in. Did you end up cutting the box to the pitch of the roof or it wouldnt reach up that high anyway? Mines 2x6 so it had to be cut and made sense for me to cut it with the pitch.


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## webby3650 (Oct 29, 2013)

cableman said:


> I came up with a way im installing support and pipe after flashings already been installed!


I assume you aren't using Super-Vent then? Because it will not fit through the flashing with the pipe support clamp on it. Unless you can get into the attic to put it on, it won't work this way.


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 29, 2013)

Will post pics as soon as possible and box did reach the roof supervent setup.

My question is though thinking about installations without a support box isn't it a bad idea to have the flashing with air slots because of heat loss and I am shocked the air slots do not cause water leakage? Think about it if it is an attic space you will have bugs and other stuff come into the attic? I guess that storm collar does the trick.

Also, webby3650 I wanted to make sure you understand what I meant in one of my posts. The round part of the flashing there is a vertical bead that holds it shape and goes uop toward the storm collar. I placed roof tar on this as well. I think that I need to use the silicone caulking no?


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## begreen (Oct 29, 2013)

04HemiRam2500 said:


> Okay guys got it in today man that was an all day event. Here a a few questions. First off is it okay that I am at exactly two inch clearance? Please tell me the codes are not written more then 2 inch because there was a stud in the way. I did not bring the box up through instead since my cathedral ceiling is double studded I boxed it in on the top and bottom there are like 20 2 and 1/2 inch screws hold that sucker on. My first question is that I applied roof tar to the bottom and top of the storm collar. However, I noticed that from the inside you can move the chimney up and then down? Is this okay or did I miss something please please tell me know. Also, when I put the flashing in I noticed that there were three layers of shingles I got under all three but when I cut them, they were about 1/2 inch from being flush to the round part of the flashing. So, I just roof tared the gap. Lastly, I did what I though I would do, I did not leave room for the removal of the flue pipe. However, I can move the chimney u so is it okay to remove it like this or do I need to buy a telescoping piece of single wall pipe. However, the fit is designed to fit a 2 foot section perfectly? So maybe if I get two one foot sections there will be enough slack or no. My thinking is if it is okay to move the chimney pipe up I do not have to worry about the flue telescoping part? Also, when I went to lock the pipe adapter by turning it I ended up turning the whole chimney again will this mess up that tar around the storm collar I think yes?
> 
> 
> My main concern is if I should lift the chimney to put the two foot section of stove pipe in or no just buy a telescoping part ist there one that size though Thanks
> ...




Roofing tar is not for the storm collar, silicone is. This will get warm and the tar will melt. Scrape it off and clean with turpentine or mineral spirits while it is fresh.

The 2" clearance is fine. Yes you can move the chimney up and down in a Selkirk install. That is how you make the room penetration of the pipe as per the previously mentioned install chart for clearances.

A short section of telescoping pipe will make your final connection go much easier.


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## alforit (Oct 30, 2013)

04HemiRam2500 said:


> Okay guys got it in today man that was an all day event. Here a a few questions. First off is it okay that I am at exactly two inch clearance? Please tell me the codes are not written more then 2 inch because there was a stud in the way. I did not bring the box up through instead since my cathedral ceiling is double studded I boxed it in on the top and bottom there are like 20 2 and 1/2 inch screws hold that sucker on. My first question is that I applied roof tar to the bottom and top of the storm collar. However, I noticed that from the inside you can move the chimney up and then down? Is this okay or did I miss something please please tell me know. Also, when I put the flashing in I noticed that there were three layers of shingles I got under all three but when I cut them, they were about 1/2 inch from being flush to the round part of the flashing. So, I just roof tared the gap. Lastly, I did what I though I would do, I did not leave room for the removal of the flue pipe. However, I can move the chimney u so is it okay to remove it like this or do I need to buy a telescoping piece of single wall pipe. However, the fit is designed to fit a 2 foot section perfectly? So maybe if I get two one foot sections there will be enough slack or no. My thinking is if it is okay to move the chimney pipe up I do not have to worry about the flue telescoping part? Also, when I went to lock the pipe adapter by turning it I ended up turning the whole chimney again will this mess up that tar around the storm collar I think yes?
> 
> 
> My main concern is if I should lift the chimney to put the two foot section of stove pipe in or no just buy a telescoping part ist there one that size though Thanks
> ...


 

Here are some pics of my install I did a year ago..........Everyone has their way of doing it so this is not an instruction but more like a guideline to help you.

Something that I learned that is really IMPORTANT and wanted to suggest to you:
The top edge of the flashing needs to have a gap between the shingle line and the cone edge (see pic).
I noticed in your video that they filled it in with tar so there was no gap .
The reason for the gap is that when it rains , it allows the water to run off the shingle with no obstruction.
if you fill in the gap or snug the shingle up to the cone then the water can build up on that top edge and create a wicking action with the water which can travel up under the shingle and up under the flashing and into your house through the ceiling and or support box.

I have seen this happen .


Also in your video it says to put roof tar under the loose shingles that you pried up......I would add that when you do that to put just a small marble sized dab up under the loose shingles ( not on the very edge of the shingles and also don't put a line of tar under and across the shingle because again, you don't want to create a wicking action or obstruction to the water run off path .)

I cut my shingle line lower ( see pic) to fit the flashing better and stabilize it better and allow the flashing to act like one big shingle . Which will further ensure any water wicking underneath the shingles.
I also placed only two screws to attach the flashing to the roof..........One on each bottom side edge of the flashing , up under the shingle. Then dabbed it with high temp sealant to doubly prevent water from entering and to secure the shingle to the flashing ( see pic )

The reason the support box should come up to the top edge of the roof is that it acts as the heat shield to ALL combustibles


Hope some of this helps ..........I tried to send this last night but lost all my text twice ,  ughhh !


P.S   Please Ignore the thick coat of high temp silicone on the storm collar.........Heh heh......It rained right after I applied it and had to redo the next day.  ( It rains a lot here  )


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## cableman (Oct 30, 2013)

webby3650 said:


> I assume you aren't using Super-Vent then? Because it will not fit through the flashing with the pipe support clamp on it. Unless you can get into the attic to put it on, it won't work this way.


 
Ya it supervent, I did it this way cause I wasn't done sheetrocking, much easier not having to cut the hole and hang it all yourself lol. It was also gonna be warm that day and much colder after. Ill put it in from the bottom by supporting the length up inside and then putting the support box in place. When I did the flashing I leveled everything out but just removed the box/chimney.


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 30, 2013)

What about the roof tar going up the circular part of the flashing? should I remove that and the roof tar going around the circle part of the flashing?

Also, is alforit it right should I not have filled in that gap on the flashing between the shingles and the circular part of the flashing. since I did should I remove it?


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## webby3650 (Oct 30, 2013)

04HemiRam2500 said:


> What about the roof tar going up the circular part of the flashing? should I remove that and the roof tar going around the circle part of the flashing?
> 
> Also, is alforit it right should I not have filled in that gap on the flashing between the shingles and the circular part of the flashing. since I did should I remove it?


Filling that gap is a good idea. There is no reason to remove it.


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 30, 2013)

okay, so putting roof tar on the flashing to fill the gap between the flashing and shingles is no problem. Is it okay that I filled this gap all the way around the flashing down to where I pulled the shingles up? Lastly, what about the roof tar going up on the circular part of the flashing since this is metal should I put the silicone there? Or is the silicone just when you need metal to metal to stick to each other? Thanks again all so much this is my first flashing that I have done. Overall it went very well just a small bump of the silicons ooops. It is going to rain tonight. Should I try the stove before I go up to remove the tar on the collar?


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## begreen (Oct 30, 2013)

04HemiRam2500 said:


> Thanks man last question is does the caulking have to be any silicone type based or is there a special one I need?


A good quality silicone adhesive/sealant like GE Silicone II is what I have used.


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## cableman (Oct 30, 2013)

04 hemi, your flashing didnt come with a silicone type sealant already around the base and going up the seam? Im not putting anything going up cause mine did have it already!


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 30, 2013)

Mine did come with the sealant already there but I read somewhere that you should put extra as this leads to problems years down the road. Is the tar okay there and around the circle part of the gap between shingles. Just want to check will be on roof soon. Thanks again.


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## begreen (Oct 30, 2013)

We can't see what you are seeing. If you can take some pictures and post them here that would help.

 A little might be ok around the base, a lot of tar, probably not, especially if it acts as a water dam. If the tar is on the vertical seam I would remove it too and redo with silicone while doing the storm collar.


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 30, 2013)

Okay I also have tar around where the bottom of the flashing is sitting on top of the shingles. I was going to go up and remove the tar and put silicone but my dad had a good point. The silicone takes 24 hours to cure and we are getting rain tonight and the next three days. So hoping for no leaks will post pic soon as I get a second.

Also, how long does it take roof tar to cure went up this morning from doing it last night and it is still soft?


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## cableman (Oct 30, 2013)

My pl roof and flashing sealant was still soft the next day too! I recommend this stuff! 


My house is held together with pl products!


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 30, 2013)

Okay cool I just wanted to make sure the black jack was suppose to be soft. Also, was it a good idea to wait till after these few days of rain. Also, will the tar on the rain cap be an immediate problem or is it something that can wait till next summer. I was under the impression that the roof tar around the collar would lead to a long time problem like in 2-5 years or can it be an immediate problem just though I should ask thanks again. I think this thread has all the info a newbie like me needs.


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## cableman (Oct 30, 2013)

Ya id wait till after the rain. You could prolly leave it on there for good and not see any problem, but over time the warm chimney and uv rays will prolly make it crack. This is why a silicone or polly sealant works better.


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## webby3650 (Oct 30, 2013)

04HemiRam2500 said:


> Mine did come with the sealant already there but I read somewhere that you should put extra as this leads to problems years down the road. Is the tar okay there and around the circle part of the gap between shingles. Just want to check will be on roof soon. Thanks again.


Just put some roofing cement around the top portion of the flashing boot. I have had issues with leaves and debris getting stuck there if its left open. After a few years silicone pulls away but good roof cement stays put.


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## 04HemiRam2500 (Oct 30, 2013)

Since the roof tar is still soft will the rain late tonight bother it and when will it harden. Thanks again guys.


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## cableman (Oct 30, 2013)

Should be fine, i think black jack might be wet applicable


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