# Buying another saw: Husky 365 or 562xp



## NoobTube (Dec 9, 2018)

I currently have an Echo CS-400 running a 18" bar, no mods. Its 3 years old, so I'm not going to touch anything until its out of warranty. Its a good saw, however lately i've been seeing wood that I can cut that is just too much for this saw. Also, my opinion is running the 18" it bogs a lot. I don't think its enough to run the 18 efficiently.

I'm thinking about making it my limb saw/backup saw (might eventually get a 16" bar for it when I decide to hot-rod it)

I was looking into Stihl's but damn they are freaking expensive. Started looking at the Husqvarna 365 and the 562XP.

I understand that the 365 can be converted into a 372xp by just grinding the baffles off the covers and I think grinding off the limiters (if I ever wanted to do so.) Its slightly less than the XP.

The 562xp seems to get a lot of love from those who have owned them (some hate regarding Auto-tune from those who don't own them) 

I figure the 365 is future-proof (or at least up-size proof) and can run a 28" bar on it no problem. The 562 seems to have the power-to-weight advantage though and has all the nice upgraded magnesium/aluminum bits.

Curious to hear what you guys think?


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## Medic21 (Dec 9, 2018)

Your comparing two different classes of saws.  The 365 is comparable to the Stihl ms391 which is a farm and ranch saw.  The 562 is comparable to the Stihl 362cm.  I have the 562xp and the Stihl 362cm. Between the two all I would suggest is what dealer support you have close.  They are within a few dollars of each other and the specs are almost identical.   The Husky is smoother and faster running and I believe the Stihl is more durable with two piston rings vs huskys one.  I couldn’t decide which one I liked more so I bought both and was on the couch for a week.  I run 18” bars normally on both.  My 441 and 461 are for the bigger bars, 24” and 32” respectively, both have been opened up.  

If you look at pro saws the Husky and Stihl prices have almost evened out in the last two years.   You mentioned the 372 from Husky and I’m not a huge fan of the weight vs the power difference for just a few CCs and not a whole bunch more power. It’s a nice saw, just heavy for the power.

If your in no hurry I’d wait for the Stihl 462 andbthe Husky 576 to be released and compare them.  Both have excellent reviews from testing.


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## NoobTube (Dec 9, 2018)

Thanks Medic, Didn't know about the piston ring difference between the Stihl and the Husky. I have great dealer support where I am for either of them. Dolmar is the only one I don't think I have a lot of dealer support for. I looked at the 461 and 441, a guy i know has both. and they in that $1K territory, which is too much. The 576 looks great, but thats another $100+ over the 562. I figured the advantage of the 365 was the ability to comfortably run a 24 bar likely a 28" bar if and when I do the conversion to make it into a 372. 

the 562xp I hear is just an all around great saw. The only real thing that is nagging me and I know this is stupid... is that its a 60cc saw, and the budget friendly Echo 590 sits in that category (obviously much lower hp though)


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## Medic21 (Dec 9, 2018)

NoobTube said:


> Thanks Medic, Didn't know about the piston ring difference between the Stihl and the Husky. I have great dealer support where I am for either of them. Dolmar is the only one I don't think I have a lot of dealer support for. I looked at the 461 and 441, a guy i know has both. and they in that $1K territory, which is too much. The 576 looks great, but thats another $100+ over the 562. I figured the advantage of the 365 was the ability to comfortably run a 24 bar likely a 28" bar if and when I do the conversion to make it into a 372.
> 
> the 562xp I hear is just an all around great saw. The only real thing that is nagging me and I know this is stupid... is that its a 60cc saw, and the budget friendly Echo 590 sits in that category (obviously much lower hp though)



I bought my 441, 461, and 066 used over the years. For saws that we use for firewood cutting occasionally you can find great deals on the Facebook marketplace and craigslist.

A 60cc pro saw is a perfect firewood saw.  It will have more power than most 70cc farm and ranch saws and is better built.


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## NoobTube (Dec 9, 2018)

Maybe my dealer will have a demo day where i can play with both of them. Around here. Nothing good used in my area.


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## Todd67 (Dec 9, 2018)

I bought a 562XP with a 20" bar in 2012. Since then I have added a 28" bar for cutting down big maple and ash trees. My saw is 100% OEM unmodified, and the only maintenance I do is change the spark plug and air filter when needed. I run full chisel chains. The saw is a 3/8 pitch & .058ga. I have cut down & cut up no less than 30 full cord of wood with my 562XP since 2012. The Auto-Tune seems to work flawlessly because the saw has never missed a beat, not even when using the 28" bar.

I wouldn't hesitate to buy another 562 if I ever needed to replace my current saw. I don't have any other saw to compare it to, but I absolutely love my 562XP!


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## TreePointer (Dec 10, 2018)

Your 40cc saw likely is running 3/8LP (low profile) chain.  A jump to a quality ~60cc saw wearing regular 3/8 pitch chain should knock your socks off.


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## NoobTube (Dec 10, 2018)

Todd67 said:


> I bought a 562XP with a 20" bar in 2012. Since then I have added a 28" bar for cutting down big maple and ash trees. My saw is 100% OEM unmodified, and the only maintenance I do is change the spark plug and air filter when needed. I run full chisel chains. The saw is a 3/8 pitch & .058ga. I have cut down & cut up no less than 30 full cord of wood with my 562XP since 2012. The Auto-Tune seems to work flawlessly because the saw has never missed a beat, not even when using the 28" bar.
> 
> I wouldn't hesitate to buy another 562 if I ever needed to replace my current saw. I don't have any other saw to compare it to, but I absolutely love my 562XP!



This is strong praise for a saw that I'm heavily considering. Thanks for your feedback. Your situation is exactly what I envision I'll be doing in the future.



TreePointer said:


> Your 40cc saw likely is running 3/8LP (low profile) chain.  A jump to a quality ~60cc saw wearing regular 3/8 pitch chain should knock your socks off.



You are 100% correct sir. Its a LP chain (wah wah wah) I am going to my dealer today to go take a look and get my hands on em... Also some guy on craigslist has a used 372xp x-torque for sale with a 20" bar on it for $450... It might be worth looking at, pending he responds to me in a timely manner. Either way, I need to get to my dealer to get a part for my Echo.


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## salecker (Dec 10, 2018)

Hi actually the 365 isn't like the Stihl 391.
 The 365 is a pro class saw that is able to be upgraded to the 372 with a piston and cylinder swap.This is a split crankcase saw.It takes a little more than grinding out the transfers.
The Still 391 is a clam shell saw where a piston and cylinder swap means the complete saw has to com apart.A Husky 455 or 460 is a better comparison.
If i was going to by a firewood saw that was a husky a 365 would be one choice.
The 562 is a newer series saw.
You could compare the 365 to a Stihl 044/440


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## NoobTube (Dec 10, 2018)

Salecker,

 I just read that if its the new Strato engine (new saw 365, you just have to grind out the restrictors on the transfer covers.) If its the old 365 non-strato engine, you need to change the piston and cylinder.


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## Todd67 (Dec 10, 2018)

I would be awful Leary of buying a used 372xp. Some people take great care of their saws, but I've seen some severely abused & neglected saws too. A used saw for $450... you'd be better off buying a new 562xp with a warranty. Just my 2 cents worth...


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## NoobTube (Dec 10, 2018)

I asked him a bunch of questions, and he hasn't responded so its not a big deal. Besides, I'm in your camp. I'd rather have a new saw.

It appears my buddy is going to buy a cs-590 tonight. I might wait to try out his 590 and see how it cuts and if it scratches my itch get one. I really wish my dealer would let me take out a 365 too and compare it. Then I would know if I can get by on a 590 or go for the 365 or 562xp​


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## Todd67 (Dec 10, 2018)

I've never used a 590. I'd love to do a side by side comparison with the 590 & 562


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## TreePointer (Dec 10, 2018)

Todd67 said:


> I would be awful Leary of buying a used 372xp. Some people take great care of their saws, but I've seen some severely abused & neglected saws too. A used saw for $450... you'd be better off buying a new 562xp with a warranty. Just my 2 cents worth...



Yep.  Lots of tree services around here use and abuse that saw (groundies & banging around in a truck bed).  Unless I could give it a good look over, including a pressure & vacuum test and at least a look at the piston through the exhaust port, it would be a no go for me.


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## Todd67 (Dec 10, 2018)

I remember seeing a Husky 460 saw with an oil leak. Turned out to be a cracked case or something like that. The new part was $350, which was the orange plastic body if I remember correctly. Looked like a perfectly good saw otherwise. It took a repair shop to diagnose where the oil leak was.


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## NoobTube (Dec 11, 2018)

Well some interesting news developed last night... My buddy is getting the 590 today I think, and after talking to my dealer, I'm going to buy a new 562XP for a pretty good discount with a 24" bar and full chisel chain. 

Sooooo we should be able to provide that 562xp vs cs-590 comparison by this weekend  

Both will be running full chisel chains the only difference being the cs-590 will be running a 20" bar.


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## mellow (Dec 11, 2018)

I had the 365 special, I ran a 20" bar on that thing and it ran like a champ, mine was stolen so if you come across one it might be mine.  I loved that saw, I would not hesitate to buy another one, I did not feel the need to upgrade it.


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## NoobTube (Dec 11, 2018)

If it made its way to CT, then it would have really taken a trip.


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## salecker (Dec 11, 2018)

NoobTube said:


> Salecker,
> 
> I just read that if its the new Strato engine (new saw 365, you just have to grind out the restrictors on the transfer covers.) If its the old 365 non-strato engine, you need to change the piston and cylinder.


You can get some gains that way i read as well,but the 372 is a bigger displacement


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## TreePointer (Dec 11, 2018)

NoobTube said:


> Well some interesting news developed last night... My buddy is getting the 590 today I think, and after talking to my dealer, I'm going to buy a new 562XP for a pretty good discount with a 24" bar and full chisel chain.
> 
> Sooooo we should be able to provide that 562xp vs cs-590 comparison by this weekend
> 
> Both will be running full chisel chains the only difference being the cs-590 will be running a 20" bar.




I like it!
(It would be better with a 20" bar, but that's personal preference for balance and the size wood I normally cut.  You know what you need/like better than I.)

You likely already learned this, but make sure to follow the break-in procedure so the AutoTune carb will properly adjust itself.  Then it's off to the races....


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## NoobTube (Dec 11, 2018)

I actually did not learn anything about the autotune break in. All it says in the manual is that you need to try to limit prolonged high reving during the first 10 hours.


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## Todd67 (Dec 11, 2018)

That's how I broke my 562 in, no problems yet, and that was 2012.


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## Medic21 (Dec 11, 2018)

salecker said:


> Hi actually the 365 isn't like the Stihl 391.
> The 365 is a pro class saw that is able to be upgraded to the 372 with a piston and cylinder swap.This is a split crankcase saw.It takes a little more than grinding out the transfers.
> The Still 391 is a clam shell saw where a piston and cylinder swap means the complete saw has to com apart.A Husky 455 or 460 is a better comparison.
> If i was going to by a firewood saw that was a husky a 365 would be one choice.
> ...



It is the same weight and size of a 441.  Not even in the ballpark of the 441 on power.  The 441 struggles with a 32” bar in hard wood.  One whole horesepower less is a ton when talking size of bar.  

Husqvarna lists the 365 with the “Robust and Powerful” and more than one dealer had told me they are equivalent to Stihls Farm and Ranch line.  Plastic bar oilers and lower grade engine parts from the Pro saws.


My MS362cm and 562xp are the same horsepower and are a pound lighter than the 365 and I can stop both dead with a 24” bar in dead ash or hardwood.  20” is their limit on heavy cutting if you bury the bar or you will slow way down.  The 441 will handle that 24” all day long and that is the recommended bar on a 5.6hp saw and the 365 is at 4.8hp saw which is a 20” recommendation.  I had to replace a clutch on the 362 this year from pushing it too hard.  If you want to run a big bar you have to have the power to efficiently run it, I can get a 28” bar for the Dolmar 510 but, it would barely pull the chain around let alone cut.  another huge consideration on bar length is the oiling system.  To run those big bars you end up with almost two tanks of oil vs a tank of fuel to oil properly with an undersized saw.  That’s a good way to burn a bar and chain up in a day of cutting.

  To each their own but, I spend the money on quality equipment designed for the job so it will last.  I’ve had my fill of trying to make stuff do more than it was intended and having to work on it.  I started buying all pro saws and saws sized for what I want it to do and everyone I have will still be used by my 8 y/o when he’s in his 40’s.  

BTW that 562xp will smoke that CS 590 hands down, no challenge at all.  Just run the saw, don’t rev it to max rpm with no load but, don’t hold off the throttle when cutting.  It will take about three tanks of gas and it will really change with the way it runs.  When you start it let it sit and idle for a min or two so it can adjust itself to temp, humidity, and the like.  If it’s hard to initially start new don’t be discouraged.  Do look at YouTube for the hot start procedure, it is very important, especially if you have my temper lol.


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## NoobTube (Dec 11, 2018)

Thanks Medic for that last bit. I saw the hot start procedure, and apparently they actually put the hot start procedure on the saw. I didn't visually verify that. So now I'm wondering if i should start with the 20" bar instead of the 24... I just figured this thing should likely do pretty well with the 24" bar. Its only a $20 difference between the 20 and 24" from my dealer.


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## Todd67 (Dec 11, 2018)

Cold starting is easy. Most people leave the choke on for too many pulls and flood it.

Put the choke on,
Attempt to start saw until it "burps" Luke it wants to start,
Turn off choke and try to start it again.
Don't keep pulling after it "burps" the first time. It will flood out and you won't have any fun pulling to no avail.


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## Todd67 (Dec 11, 2018)

I don't own a 24" bar, so I can't comment on the difference between the 20" & the 24". I do like the portability of the 20" bar though, especially when bucking firewood logs to size.


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## NoobTube (Dec 11, 2018)

gotcha, I just have a couple pretty large trees that I have been taking them down where the 24" bar makes sense.


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## Todd67 (Dec 11, 2018)

NoobTube said:


> gotcha, I just have a couple pretty large trees that I have been taking them down where the 24" bar makes sense.



That makes sense. You can use your Echo saw for the small work if you need to.

Just like my situation, I use my Husky 440 with the 16 or 18" bars for limbing and light work, and my 562 for the heavy cutting.


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## Medic21 (Dec 11, 2018)

NoobTube said:


> Thanks Medic for that last bit. I saw the hot start procedure, and apparently they actually put the hot start procedure on the saw. I didn't visually verify that. So now I'm wondering if i should start with the 20" bar instead of the 24... I just figured this thing should likely do pretty well with the 24" bar. Its only a $20 difference between the 20 and 24" from my dealer.




I run an 18” on mine.  if I’m cutting anything bigger than 18”-20” inches I’ll grab a bigger saw.  For me it’s about the speed and what’s comfortable to run all day long.  The 562 and 362 are my go to, limbing, and everyday use saws.  I switch which one I take just to equal out the hours on them.  When I know I’m going to drop a tree I take the 441 or 461 and one of the 60cc saws.  Having time to send a txt msg while cutting with a .325 chain saw is worse than the extra weight to me.  

A 24” on that saw is ok, make sure the Oiler is cranked up and if you bury it make sure to take your time and not force it.  There is something to be said about not bending over as much but, be very careful using the tip of that bar vs your little echo.  Tons more power and chain speed and it will bite fast.  When it kicks you will feel it.  Congrats on the saw, you will not be disappointed in the least.


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## Medic21 (Dec 11, 2018)

I’ll also add that until you’ve ran it awhile stick to low kickback chains.  I cannot stress how much more powerful and different this saw will be.  A lot of the chainsaw injuries I’ve seen working EMS have been the first time someone used a powerful, professional grade, saw and the first thing they say is how they’ve been running saws for years and never did this.


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## Todd67 (Dec 11, 2018)

Very good point! That 562 with a full chisel chain will try to pull itself out of your hand when it goes through hardwood. Let the weight if the saw do the cutting for you. No need to "press" the saw through the wood. Just hang on and enjoy the "ride"


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## NoobTube (Dec 11, 2018)

I think this saw will come with a full chisel chain. I have no intention of muscling this thing. My brother is a emergency room nurse and has been an EMT for 16 years. He's seen some serious stuff (as Im sure you have as well medic). I'm going to get myself a helmet with a face guard. I asked for chaps for Christmas, so we will see if I get some.


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## Todd67 (Dec 11, 2018)

Good idea! I wear chaps and the Husky helmet with the face shield and ear muffs. Let the wood chips fly


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## Medic21 (Dec 11, 2018)

I love the Bugs goggles. 





Wife, RN/Paramedic, was not happy the faceshield went away when she stitched me up from a plastic wedge that smacked me in the face.


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## NoobTube (Dec 11, 2018)

Those goggles are perfect since they almost never fog up where as the shields and safety glasses always seem to fog up.


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## TreePointer (Dec 11, 2018)

Just to clarify, note that full chisel tooth shape does not necessarily mean the chain does not have "low-kickback" features.  With that being stated, full chisel chain does tend to be more "grabby," regardless of whether it's a standard or low-kickback model.

1. There are full chisel and semi-chisel chains that are low-kickback.
2. There are full chisel and semi-chisel chains that are NOT low-kickback.
3. If you want more effective low-kickback functionality, combine low-kickback chain with a low-kickback bar.

The drawback of a low-kickback bars is that they're less effective when plunge/bore cutting.  The more rounded tip of standard bars is better for bore cutting.

Also, low-kickback bars often have less expensive laminate construction, a non-replaceable sprocket (well at least not easily replaceable), and are a little less durable.  In my experience, if you don't abuse laminate bars (use as a pry bar) they do just fine.


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## NoobTube (Dec 12, 2018)

Duly noted TreePointer. I do plan on halving some of these rounds and I understand that there is a higher likelihood of kickback with a plunge cut. The way I've always done them is to start out at more of a 45* angle get a nice groove, and easily and slowly with very little pressure, raise the saw up and let it sit down into the kerf. 

Even on a LP chain you can get kick back and i learned my lesson a long time ago with a scare when I was trying to do a plunge cut for the first time. I went straight at it. It rode that round straight up and almost into me. Thankfully I was not directly over the saw when I did that. Ever since then, I refrain from plunge cuts, and when I do them, I'm super careful.


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## kennyp2339 (Dec 12, 2018)

I picked up a new Husky 465 x-torque w/ 20" bar 3 months ago, very pleased with it and a much better improvement from the Husky 359 w/ 20" bar.
The nice thing with the 465 is the auto tune carb imo. The saw came with a 24" bar but I exchanged that for a 20" since I have all my chains at 20" now.


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## Medic21 (Dec 12, 2018)

NoobTube said:


> Duly noted TreePointer. I do plan on halving some of these rounds and I understand that there is a higher likelihood of kickback with a plunge cut. The way I've always done them is to start out at more of a 45* angle get a nice groove, and easily and slowly with very little pressure, raise the saw up and let it sit down into the kerf.
> 
> Even on a LP chain you can get kick back and i learned my lesson a long time ago with a scare when I was trying to do a plunge cut for the first time. I went straight at it. It rode that round straight up and almost into me. Thankfully I was not directly over the saw when I did that. Ever since then, I refrain from plunge cuts, and when I do them, I'm super careful.



You more than likely would have eaten the saw you are buying.  I would caution you to not even attempt a plunge cut till your used to the saw.


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## NoobTube (Dec 12, 2018)

We have a Kubota where we are cutting so we should be able to get them on the trailer if they can't be lifted. And I'll have my maul so I can always split it the good ole' fashion way.


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## Zack R (Dec 12, 2018)

Get the 365, I have one and it will cover all of your firewood needs. Run a 20" bar for most stuff, larger if needed. Its a magnesium case pro saw that is easy to repair and will last the rest of your woodcutting life if properly cared for.

The 365 I use is a 2000 model year and is showing no signs of slowing down anytime soon. First pull it pops, second pull it starts. If I'm fast enough to close the choke it can sometimes start on the first pull.


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## Zack R (Dec 12, 2018)

Medic21 said:


> I’ll also add that until you’ve ran it awhile stick to low kickback chains.  I cannot stress how much more powerful and different this saw will be.  A lot of the chainsaw injuries I’ve seen working EMS have been the first time someone used a powerful, professional grade, saw and the first thing they say is how they’ve been running saws for years and never did this.



Good call.... the key thing on a powerful saw is to have an exit plan. My first few cuts went through a lot faster than I was used to with a smaller saw and it did surprise me a bit.

I run full chisel, full skip chains (all my cutting is in pine) which can be a kickback mess if you let them. The key is to always know where the bar is and what it might possibly run into.

It seems to me the highest chance of injury would be from limbing with a smaller saw. Lots of movement, less time taken to focus on each cut, and a lot of exposure to the legs and feet area.

Take your time, be deliberate in each move, have an exit plan and stay safe!


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## WiscWoody (Dec 12, 2018)

Like I’ve said on a few other threads here, I have a 562XP that I had ported from a guy that’s good at doing the job here in Wisconsin. I run a 20" bar on the saw and I love it. It has the power that a 390XP would- around 6hp and it’s not real heavy like my 28" 390XP is which is also ported. It took some getting used to the different startup procedure especially when the saw was not hot but just warm so I wouldn’t flood it but now I have it all down and I have no problems starting the saw either cold, warm or hot. It’s a great saw!


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## NoobTube (Dec 12, 2018)

Got it tonight ya'll!  Wisc Woody, I just did the exact same thing you were talking about regarding learning to start it when its warm. If its warm, don't touch the decompression button... Don't touch the button prime bulb right? Also don't open the choke... Just turn it to the run position. Either way. You can tell this sucker is gonna rip!


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## WiscWoody (Dec 12, 2018)

NoobTube said:


> Got it tonight ya'll!  Wisc Woody, I just did the exact same thing you were talking about regarding learning to start it when its warm. If its warm, don't touch the decompression button... Don't touch the button prime bulb right? Also don't open the choke... Just turn it to the run position. Either way. You can tell this sucker is gonna rip!
> 
> View attachment 235625


Nice saw! Well, if it’s fairly hot- like within a few minutes of running the saw I use the decompression button and just pull it and my saw will start right up but if it sits a bit and cools down some I decompress it, push the bulb once and I set the choke then back it off half way and it always starts. YMMV.... my saw is one of the first ones made and I think they’ve improved on them since. And the prime bulb isn’t a real primer, it just gets gas into the carb not the combustion chamber like a real primer-I think. Someone here might have a better explanation of what it does. You’ll like the saw- especially if you get it ported someday.


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## WiscWoody (Dec 12, 2018)

WiscWoody said:


> Nice saw! Well, if it’s fairly hot- like within a few minutes of running the saw I use the decompression button and just pull it and my saw will start right up but if it sits a bit and cools down some I decompress it, push the bulb once and I set the choke then back it off half way and it always starts. YMMV.... my saw is one of the first ones made and I think they’ve improved on them since. And the prime bulb isn’t a real primer, it just gets gas into the carb not the combustion chamber like a real primer-I think. Someone here might have a better explanation of what it does. You’ll like the saw- especially if you get it ported someday.



What bar length did you get, maybe a 24"?


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## WiscWoody (Dec 12, 2018)

Todd67 said:


> Very good point! That 562 with a full chisel chain will try to pull itself out of your hand when it goes through hardwood. Let the weight if the saw do the cutting for you. No need to "press" the saw through the wood. Just hang on and enjoy the "ride"


Yes, that’s what I run on my 562XP is full chisel with a standard non safety bar. I have my rakers filed down a little more than usual but not overkill since it’s been ported so the saw is a real chipper! It cuts through 10" limbs in seconds.


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## NoobTube (Dec 12, 2018)

WiscWoody said:


> What bar length did you get, maybe a 24"?



It is indeed the 24... I think in the future, i'm going to get a 20" bar for it but get the new lightweight Husky bar that came out. Dealer said its pricey though...

I think i shouldnt have pressed the decompression button after running it for a very short while. I think that is what somewhat flooded it. To clear it I just kept pulling until that sucker started spitting some smoke... lol. Either way, will get used to it by using it. I plan on cutting Saturday. My buddies 590 is new and for some reason it bogs on throttle pull (not in a cut) You think he needs to richen it up a bit? I know they say they come really lean from Echo.


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## Todd67 (Dec 12, 2018)

Sometimes my 562 is easier to warm-start without pressing the decompression button in.

My run/choke/stop button stays in the run position at all times, unless I pull out & up to put it in choke, or I press it down to kill the engine, after which time it goes back to the run (middle) position. It's just a single red button, not the double blue & red buttons. It's an early model 562xp from 2012, so I don't know what has changed on them.


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## WiscWoody (Dec 12, 2018)

Todd67 said:


> Sometimes my 562 is easier to warm-start without pressing the decompression button in.
> 
> My run/choke/stop button stays in the run position at all times, unless I pull out & up to put it in choke, or I press it down to kill the engine, after which time it goes back to the run (middle) position. It's just a single red button, not the double blue & red buttons. It's an early model 562xp from 2012, so I don't know what has changed on them.


Right, that’s the same thing I have on my saw. Sometimes when the saw is warm I’ll set the choke but then bring the lever down a bit so I just have partial choke. It works for me.


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## WiscWoody (Dec 12, 2018)

NoobTube said:


> It is indeed the 24... I think in the future, i'm going to get a 20" bar for it but get the new lightweight Husky bar that came out. Dealer said its pricey though...
> 
> I think i shouldnt have pressed the decompression button after running it for a very short while. I think that is what somewhat flooded it. To clear it I just kept pulling until that sucker started spitting some smoke... lol. Either way, will get used to it by using it. I plan on cutting Saturday. My buddies 590 is new and for some reason it bogs on throttle pull (not in a cut) You think he needs to richen it up a bit? I know they say they come really lean from Echo.


Yeah it can be a bit frustrating at first with that saw but you’ll get a routine down for the different conditions when the saw it cold/warm/hot. I’m not sure about your buds saw- a lot of times nowadays you can’t adjust the carb and you have to replace it to make the device run right. That’s what happened to my new Husqvarna backpack blower, it bogged down when trying to accelerate it and I took it in for warranty work and they had to replace the carburetor on it.
BTW- I do lawncare in the summer and I mostly use Husqvarna for equipment as it seems I get more for the money from their products. My newest mower is a 72" 31hp fuel injected Husqvarna zero turn model that just gobbles up the grass! It’s a real nice ride.


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## NoobTube (Dec 13, 2018)

Nice! Hows that thing stripe?


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## WiscWoody (Dec 13, 2018)

NoobTube said:


> Nice! Hows that thing stripe?


I don’t have the striping rollers on it since I mow in a rural area where no one cares if their lawns are striped. Most of the lawns I mow are cabins or second houses and they are weedy old lawns with all the tree stumps and all.... the owners don’t want to come up and mow- they want to fish and drink beer and that works out good for me lol.

I was just out cutting the elm I’ve been working on the last few days and I was thinking.... the way Scott Kunz aka Tree Monkey raised the compression on my 562XP when he ported it I have to use the decompression button every time I start the saw. If I don’t press it I won’t get one revolution out of the engine and when it is used I can hardly crank it even then. No wander why Scott said to use only premium non-ethanol fuel which I did anyways. Also- the way I figure it, most of the wood I burn is free scrounge wood except for a load of wood that I recently bought to catch up after a move this last summer.... so if I spend a bundle on a good pro saw then that’s my heating cost and it’s something tangible that I’ll have probably the rest of my life at my age. Right?


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## woodhog73 (Dec 14, 2018)

I haven’t read through all the posts so this may have already been stated. Anyways I have been running Husky and Jonsered saws since I was a teenager. I’m pushing 50 these days. Run probably every pro saw out of Sweden in my lifetime.

The 365 and 372 have always shared the same bottom end. Both are full PRO saws. Full mag cases. Built to work in a commercial production  environment. The pre Xtorq models have a better bottom end build. The crank shaft and main bearings are stouter. Cost cutting or whatever the case may be resulted in the new Xtorqs having plastic cages on the crank bearings. But I have a Xtorq Jonsered 2172 ( same as Husky 372) with probably a 1,000 hours on it still runs like a champ.

Anywho a pre Xtorq 365/372 the difference was the displacement. The 365 was 65cc and the 372 was 70cc. About $100 price difference. The 365 was “ marketed “ as a farm saw. But that’s marketing. It’s a downsized 372. And some compared it to a Stihl 390/391. Not on this planet or any other. The Stihl 039/390/391 is a plastic clam saw. 

An Xtorq 365 and 372 are both 70cc. The 365 has a divider in the transfer which lowers its power a little. You don’t notice it unless your trying to pull a 24 inch bar buried in oak. Otherwise you can’t tell the difference.

As for a 562 well it is a 60cc saw. It feels and is a medium size saw. Both the 365 and 372 are what I would consider a “ big “ saw. More robust more torque more real world power to pull a longer bar.


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## WiscWoody (Dec 14, 2018)

woodhog73 said:


> I haven’t read through all the posts so this may have already been stated. Anyways I have been running Husky and Jonsered saws since I was a teenager. I’m pushing 50 these days. Run probably every pro saw out of Sweden in my lifetime.
> 
> The 365 and 372 have always shared the same bottom end. Both are full PRO saws. Full mag cases. Built to work in a commercial production  environment. The pre Xtorq models have a better bottom end build. The crank shaft and main bearings are stouter. Cost cutting or whatever the case may be resulted in the new Xtorqs having plastic cages on the crank bearings. But I have a Xtorq Jonsered 2172 ( same as Husky 372) with probably a 1,000 hours on it still runs like a champ.
> 
> ...


Until you get a ported 562XP then the medium saw feels like a big barrel saw.


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## woodhog73 (Dec 14, 2018)

WiscWoody said:


> Until you get a ported 562XP then the medium saw feels like a big barrel saw.


 
Nope.

I have a ported and polished Jonsered 2252 built with a high top piston, no base gasket, muffler mod. Auto tune always runs perfect. It’s a Strong 50cc saw. With an 18 inch bar it will cut with any stock 60cc saw even outcut it including a 562. No problem. But a stock 562 will pull a 24 inch bar better than my 50cc hot rod. More torque. Period. My 50cc modded saw will not do well pulling 24 inches 3/8 chain. And it’s a race mod saw not a woods port. It’s a screamer.

Don’t believe me ? My 50cc ported saw with an 18 inch bar also outcuts my my Stihl 056 in small wood. But my 056 will pull a 60 inch bar if needed. I run a 28 inch bar on my 056 as an every day bar. My 2252 that screams like it’s on steroids would never do that. My 056 is old. It does not pump out RPMs like my modded 2252 does.

What I’m saying is there is no replacement for displacement. If I needed a 28 inch bar for production cutting there isn’t a 562 on earth that I would choose over a stock 372 ( or any other 70 to 90 cc saw ) BUT that’s if I needed a big bar.

If all I need is a 20 inch bar sure a nice running and light modern 60 cc saw sounds about perfect for my old aging self. Heavy saws are tiring


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## TreePointer (Dec 14, 2018)

five-hundred-i














(just teasing )


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## woodhog73 (Dec 14, 2018)

Let’s race em ! Lol

The only reason I modded a small 50cc saw is because I’m old have an aching back and I hate big heavy saws. I get more done with the little 50cc. And I don’t get tired. Hey I’m a big fan of the 562. It is the only 60cc I’d ever spend my money on. But in general I’m not one to favor 60cc saws. Nonetheless the 562 is Best in class in my opinion. But a 372 it will never be no matter how much money you put into it


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## WiscWoody (Dec 14, 2018)

woodhog73 said:


> Nope.
> 
> I have a ported and polished Jonsered 2252 built with a high top piston, no base gasket, muffler mod. Auto tune always runs perfect. It’s a Strong 50cc saw. With an 18 inch bar it will cut with any stock 60cc saw even outcut it including a 562. No problem. But a stock 562 will pull a 24 inch bar better than my 50cc hot rod. More torque. Period. My 50cc modded saw will not do well pulling 24 inches 3/8 chain. And it’s a race mod saw not a woods port. It’s a screamer.
> 
> ...


That’s all I run on my ported 562- a 20" bar with full chisel chains and that’s because that is all I need for most of the wood I cut but if I need something bigger then I opt for my ported 390XP with a 28" bar and full chisel chains. But I think my ported 562XP has the power of a bigger displacement saw. Maybe you don’t but that’s fine.


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## woodhog73 (Dec 14, 2018)

WiscWoody said:


> But I think my ported 562XP has the power of a bigger displacement saw.



I’m sure it does. My ported 50cc cuts like a 60cc with a 50cc sized bar ( 18 inches). So I’m guessing with a 20 inch bar your modded 562 replicates a 372 fairly well.

But in a situation that calls for a 24 to 28 inch bar the larger 372 is going to prevail every time. If you needed to log a few acres filled with 40 inch oaks and 2 saws were in your shed a modded 60cc or a stock 70cc the natural choice is to take the bigger saw.

Modded 562 is a cheetah. Stock 372 is still a lion. Ok dumb comparison but it makes a point 

As for your 390xp great saw. Stihl might be the most popular in most markets but like many of us already know the best saws come out of Sweden ...


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## Medic21 (Dec 15, 2018)

Well?  What do you think after the first day?


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## Todd67 (Dec 15, 2018)

Medic21 said:


> Well?  What do you think after the first day?



He likes it so much that he's still out there cutting with it


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## NoobTube (Dec 17, 2018)

Medic21 said:


> Well?  What do you think after the first day?





Todd67 said:


> He likes it so much that he's still out there cutting with it



Wow.... Really guys... I'm ecstatic! I think the difference between 3/8lp and regular 3/8 alone was something to behold. But damn. I'm glad I went with the 24" bar. I was cutting through Red Oak still on the tree like a hot knife through butter. I literally just rested the bar on the tree and let it eat. Never jumped on me once.never got stuck. Just kept an eye on the wood chips coming out for change in color. 

It literally took me 15 minutes to cut up what we could actually fit in our trailer. We might have overloaded the trailer a tad, the axle was starting to bow... But it was a short trip and we got it to my house.

Observations about the 562xp and the EchoCS-590
1. Glad I didnt get CS-590. There is no comparison on how it operates vs the 562. It just eats.
2. It felt like the 590 didnt have very aggressive teeth on the saw, however it was a full chiesel chain 20" bar. It never really bogged, but it just didnt feel like it was cutting well.
3. One bad thing with the 562 that I need to never do again. Never ever ever press the decompression valve when its been hot and try to restart.... 30 pulls later, it was back in action, but damn, that was a lot of work. Either keep it running or when your ready to restart again, don't press that valve. 
4. It does not start as quickly as my cs-400 echo, but the power difference is a-freaking-mazing.

All-in-all it was no sweat for the saw yesterday, cutting 22" diameter (at its thinnest) and 36" diameter (at its widest) wet red oak. The hardest part of the day was loading and unloading.

Worst part of the day. Splitting by hand... Damn My hands are sore. 

Would I have needed the 365... I really don't think so. The 562XP is going to serve me many many great years!


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## Todd67 (Dec 17, 2018)

Good report, thanks! I'm not surprised that you love your 562xp. It's all the saw that I'll ever need.


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## WiscWoody (Dec 17, 2018)

Well that’s a shame you don’t like the saw much... lol


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## Medic21 (Dec 17, 2018)

The 562 and Cs590 don’t even belong in the same universe.  Now you know what fun is again.


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## woodhog73 (Dec 17, 2018)

Medic21 said:


> The 562 and Cs590 don’t even belong in the same universe.  Now you know what fun is again.



Just misleading. I’m a Swede saw fan since the 70s when I was a kid. Helping to heat the family homestead. and the 562 is the best 60cc saw on the market as far as cut throat performance goes. In my opinion. But if you think on this your paying almost double. For a firewood cutter or anyone cutting less than 10 hours a day everyday in production, and/or  less than hundreds and hundreds of cords a year as a business, one could reasonably say the average joe is better with the 590 Echo.

Why ?? Like I said half the cost. Then take the saws apart. They are both very well built. Both have mag cases. Both have durable crank shafts. Both have well thought out designs. Knowing how well Japanese equipment is made in general  I wouldn’t be surprised if the 590 has higher quality main bearings and crankshaft strength than the Husky. After all it’s a Honda or Toyota type machine.

Recent Husky cost cutting has resulted in plastic cage main bearings. My old 2165 Johnny was replaced by a 2172 ( 2166 converted ) several years ago. The Johnny Red  is a 365/372 in red and BOY did quality drop. And the 2 ring top end on the Echo is going to generally last longer than the 1 ring Husky. And let’s not forget with the $350 saved on the Echo you could put that towards a new splitter so you don’t have to keep swinging a maul
( as someone said a few posts above )

Yes the Husky 562 will out perform a stock 590. But they are probably closer than you think and one keeps a lot more money in your wallet.

Just saying


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## NoobTube (Dec 18, 2018)

woodhog73 said:


> Just misleading. I’m a Swede saw fan since the 70s when I was a kid. Helping to heat the family homestead. and the 562 is the best 60cc saw on the market as far as cut throat performance goes. In my opinion. But if you think on this your paying almost double. For a firewood cutter or anyone cutting less than 10 hours a day everyday in production, and/or  less than hundreds and hundreds of cords a year as a business, one could reasonably say the average joe is better with the 590 Echo.
> 
> Why ?? Like I said half the cost. Then take the saws apart. They are both very well built. Both have mag cases. Both have durable crank shafts. Both have well thought out designs. Knowing how well Japanese equipment is made in general  I wouldn’t be surprised if the 590 has higher quality main bearings and crankshaft strength than the Husky. After all it’s a Honda or Toyota type machine.
> 
> ...



I paid $250 more for the Husky (Got a nice little deal on it from my local dealer) That being said, having used both saws, there really is no comparison in cutting performance. the 562xp just goes and it generally feels much stable while in the cut. The 590 seemed to be pretty high strung, but it just wasnt cutting with the same gusto as the 562xp.Cutting next to eachother, my buddy was still sawing for a long while after I had completed my cut, and he looked like he was pushing down a lot on that saw, where as I just let the saw's weight do the work.

Would I be OK with the 590? Sure. Would I be as satisfied as I am now that I have tried both... No way.


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## Medic21 (Dec 18, 2018)

NoobTube said:


> I paid $250 more for the Husky (Got a nice little deal on it from my local dealer) That being said, having used both saws, there really is no comparison in cutting performance. the 562xp just goes and it generally feels much stable while in the cut. The 590 seemed to be pretty high strung, but it just wasnt cutting with the same gusto as the 562xp.Cutting next to eachother, my buddy was still sawing for a long while after I had completed my cut, and he looked like he was pushing down a lot on that saw, where as I just let the saw's weight do the work.
> 
> Would I be OK with the 590? Sure. Would I be as satisfied as I am now that I have tried both... No way.



And that was my point.  I can cut all the wood I need with a MS170 but why use a Ford when I can Use a Dodge


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## Chas0218 (Dec 18, 2018)

Only 60cc saw I have is the old 041av stihl, has a 24" bar no problem in any hardwoods and sounds pretty cool doing it. My little 550 XP has an 18" bar and it cuts like a hot knife through butter no matter what wood long as the chain is sharp. Either way I cut around 6 cords of wood a year and various other improvements to our 40 acres using the 550 XP. and the 041 was demoted to the chainsaw mill for the time being. I have a small Husky 435 I use on rare occasions but the 550 is my go too. I don't think you'll be disappointed with your Husky, I know I wouldn't trade mine for anything.


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## Zack R (Dec 18, 2018)

A bit late to the party but one thing I like about my 365... parts are still available. After 20 years the fuel tank cracked and started leaking, called my local Husqvarna dealer and they had one available in a few days. In addition the 365 is easy to maintain, the fuel tank replacement took just over an hour and that was my first time, with a few beers and cleaning everything out with the air compressor. You can tell they built this thing with maintenance and repairs in mind.


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## woodhog73 (Dec 18, 2018)

NoobTube said:


> I paid $250 more for the Husky
> 
> Would I be OK with the 590? Sure. Would I be as satisfied as I am now that I have tried both... No way.



I’m on my last post here. You said it I didn’t. You paid $250 more for a 562. And it won’t cut any more wood than an Echo 590. But your wallet is lighter.

That said the better deal is a Husky 555. Only $100 more than the Echo vs $300 more as is with the 562. Pro saw and 1/2 hp reduction on the 562.

People here are not making a living with a saw. So a Echo 590 will put just as much wood on the ground as any other 60cc saw.

And for less money. 

Then there is always the crowd that will say if it’s not a Stihl then it’s sub par. Let’s be honest. In the real world a Stihl 362 Mtronic outsells, out performs ( based on numbers ) and generally outlasts a 562 Xp. Both are tier 1 pro 60cc saws.  People who make a living with a saw will run us Swede saw fans over by pure numbers. At the end of the day it doesn’t matter. A Echo 590 will probably laugh last. Cause for firewood cutters it’s a better deal. And Pro users will laugh last cause they will argue a Stihl 362 is superior to any Husky out there.

So who really cares in the end.


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## Todd67 (Dec 18, 2018)

In the end I'm just glad we have choices.


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## Chas0218 (Dec 19, 2018)

woodhog73 said:


> I’m on my last post here. You said it I didn’t. You paid $250 more for a 562. And it won’t cut any more wood than an Echo 590. But your wallet is lighter.
> 
> That said the better deal is a Husky 555. Only $100 more than the Echo vs $300 more as is with the 562. Pro saw and 1/2 hp reduction on the 562.
> 
> ...


I see where you're coming from, when I made my purchase last year my dealer carries both Echo and Husky. I asked if I could try out both saws(CS 501 and XP 550) and he did. I can tell you the Echo didn't hold a candle to the Husky. The chain speed, power in cut, vibration all was completely different. I liked the Echo but the Husky was way more saw for only the $20 difference. I was out the door for $610 with 4 cans of synthetic fuel, spare 18" chain and scabbard. My comfort while operating for the next 20 years outweighs that $40. I can say when I cut 9 cords worth of hardwood this year I'm happy with the 550. A lot less fatigue than with my 041 or my father in laws farm boss. My father in law's Stihl farm boss is about 30 years old and still chugging along. My step dad has owned Stihl all his firewood career and at 70 years old is still out cutting and hand splitting a cord/year for a friend. He said he should have switched to Husky a number of years ago but had a dealer he like and serviced all his saws over the years and kept buying from him as he didn't know anything about other brands.


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## NoobTube (Dec 19, 2018)

woodhog73 said:


> I’m on my last post here. You said it I didn’t. You paid $250 more for a 562. And it won’t cut any more wood than an Echo 590. But your wallet is lighter.
> 
> That said the better deal is a Husky 555. Only $100 more than the Echo vs $300 more as is with the 562. Pro saw and 1/2 hp reduction on the 562.
> 
> ...



All I'm saying is that after trying both, I'm glad I spent the extra money on the Husqvarna. It performs much better than the 590 out of the box. Now I'm sure once a few tanks are through these, they will both open up, and the CS590 likely will really open up. But again, I don't lament the extra amount of money I spent. To me it really felt like it was worth it.


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## Hank_612 (Jan 30, 2019)

I have run a 590 562 and 362. I own a 562 and moms boyfriend had a 362 bought at the same time I bought my 562 in 2016. Only people who own echos will even compare the three saws. A 362 is a legit comparison and a fine saw. Some prefer "grunt" and some a saw that feels like it pulls higher rpm in the cut. A 562 feels lighter and smoother to me. It also feels faster than the 362 with a 20 inch bar 3/8 .50 rs chain. 

After 10 tanks and a muffler mod my 562 felt 20% faster. My 562 wears a 18 in bar now and full chisel chain. It rips and makes me smile every time I use it. Unless I choke the darn thing when it's warm.  

I also have a 346xp ne  with a mm and 16 inch 3/8 .50. I would put money on it every day cutting say 14 inch oak against my neighbors 590 with a mm. Even the owner of that saw would not put it in the same class as a 362 or 562. And yes they are broke in and tuned........


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## Neurotoxin (Feb 11, 2019)

Going to retire my old 371xp for a new 562xp soon. Wouldn't bat an eye if I had to only go with the 365 if I didn't have enough cash.


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## salecker (Feb 12, 2019)

Neurotoxin said:


> Going to retire my old 371xp for a new 562xp soon. Wouldn't bat an eye if I had to only go with the 365 if I didn't have enough cash.


 Retire...
 What does that mean to you?Trade in? Put under the bench and forget it?Sell it?
 Just curious because i rebuild saws as a hobby,might be interested if you want rid of it.


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## Neurotoxin (Feb 12, 2019)

Sell it. Use the cash towards new saw. We get good money for used saws i my neck of the woods. Whereabouts are you located?


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## woodhog73 (Feb 28, 2019)

Neurotoxin said:


> Going to retire my old 371xp for a new 562xp soon. Wouldn't bat an eye if I had to only go with the 365 if I didn't have enough cash.



Why would you get rid of a 371xp for a new 365 Xtorq ? The new saw has inferior crank bearings with plastic cages outsourced to Asia as opposed to
Swedish made crank bearings in your older XP ?? Plus the 365 Xtorq is heavier and has less power. The cylinder porting is less aggressive as well. This makes no sense.

371xp is pre EPA and a bulit proof saw if well maintained. Don’t sell it. 

Swede saw fan since I was a teenager. I’m almost 50 now and have had most Swede saws made over the years. 

The only 365 I would want is a special from the 1990s. It’s 65cc and very high reving. Light and powerful for a medium duty saw. 

I bought a Jonny 2166 Xtorq ( same as 365 Xtorq ) and was an overweight dog. I ground the transfer to make it into a 2172 Xtorq. It’s now a decent saw. But it’s heavy and no where as well constructed as a 371 or 372 XP


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## Neurotoxin (Feb 28, 2019)

woodhog73 said:


> Why would you get rid of a 371xp for a new 365 Xtorq ? The new saw has inferior crank bearings with plastic cages outsourced to Asia as opposed to
> Swedish made crank bearings in your older XP ?? Plus the 365 Xtorq is heavier and has less power. The cylinder porting is less aggressive as well. This makes no sense.
> 
> 371xp is pre EPA and a bulit proof saw if well maintained. Don’t sell it.
> ...



Humm didn’t realize the new one is no good. The 365 special is the only 365 I used (my uncles) it’s awesome! I guess I assumed that if anything the newer 365 would be just as good or better. Maybe stick with going down to the 562xp for the reduced weight.


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## Zack R (Mar 5, 2019)

Neurotoxin said:


> Humm didn’t realize the new one is no good. The 365 special is the only 365 I used (my uncles) it’s awesome! I guess I assumed that if anything the newer 365 would be just as good or better. Maybe stick with going down to the 562xp for the reduced weight.



I wouldn't say its no good, its just that the older ones are better. You really can't go wrong either way.


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## mellow (Nov 23, 2022)

mellow said:


> I had the 365 special, I ran a 20" bar on that thing and it ran like a champ, mine was stolen so if you come across one it might be mine.  I loved that saw, I would not hesitate to buy another one, I did not feel the need to upgrade it.



I kid you not,  I won my 365 special back in a govdeals auction,  it has been sitting in storage for the past 5 years at the Police dept.  They would not release it to me since I did not have the serial number even though I had pictures of it that matched.   Ohh well, it sometimes pays to keep an eye out for stolen items, even 5 years later!  Can't wait to put it back to work!


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## duramaxman05 (Nov 23, 2022)

I would buy a simple carburetorated  saw.  I have a 550xp and love the saw but not a fan of autotune. The father in law has had several autotunes and a stihl 462 mtronic. Mine s finicky and my father in law says the same. I found that mine doesn't like heat. That's when it gives me the most crap.  When they are running right, they are hard to beat. I found my regular carburetorated saws don't give me any crap and always start and run.


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## ericm979 (Nov 24, 2022)

I like my Mtronic Stihls. The one issue with them is that if you run the saw hard and cut the ignition and then go to start it while it's still hot, it will be too rich and won't start. You can either start it with the throttle open to lean it out, or the better solution is to let it idle for 5 seconds or so before turning the ignition off. Which is probably a good idea anyhow to cool the engine down.  Sometimes I forget.

Other than that they have worked flawlessly. They always run like a perfectly tuned regular carb saw.

I have not used Husqvarna's version but I see more complaints about it.


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## sloeffle (Nov 24, 2022)

What’s the long term consensus on the 562XP ?


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## duramaxman05 (Nov 24, 2022)

sloeffle said:


> What’s the long term consensus on the 562XP ?


I would say it would be fine. I know they came a long way since it came out. The average firewood cutter would probably never wear one out. That's the good thing with pro saws. Pay the money up front but get a good long lasting saw. Maintenance and a sharp chain is key.


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## mellow (Nov 25, 2022)

If the 562 is anything like that 365 it is an awesome saw.  

This 365 has been sitting for over 5 years, I emptied the old varnished gas and put some new in and it started up on the 3rd pull and is ready to go, I thought I was going to have to clean the carb at a minimum.   Man I missed this saw!


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## walhondingnashua (Dec 6, 2022)

I've had my 562xp since 2016.  Other than the issue starting when it is hot, it's a monster for its size.  I just put a semi-chisel full chain and a 24" bar on it and notice zero power lose in oak, hickory, ash, etc.  Actually wish now I might have tried the 28".  I hope nothing serious ever happens to it because I want to own it for a very long time.  For the average firewood cutter that isn't an expert at adjusting the carb, the 562 is perfect.  My local dealer (sells all 3 major brands) say it is their favorite firewood saw.

Side note... has anyone tried what ericm suggests above with one of the husky autotune saws?  My saw was old enough to not have the cover with the heat cut out.  I did one myself and it helped some.  Still considering doing a small muffler mod to see if it helps as well.


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## j7art2 (Dec 8, 2022)

My 562XP is a fantastic saw. Zero complaints at all. Mine's probably 7-8 years old now and I've done nothing to it but change the air filter, plug, and chain a few times. It's pretty much been retired to bucking large rounds or doing stacks of 20 limbs at once in the bucking horse now because of it's size. I sold my 455 Rancher to upgrade to it and it was a solid decision. Same size package, but ~35% more saw in said package. 

My buddies is newer, 4-5 years old, and his saw is a bit different than mine. I'm not exactly sure what the changes are, but they sound port related. He insists he has less overall horsepower than mine but his spins up 2,000 RPM higher he claims. Zero complaints from him either.

I haven't tested our saws back to back, but they're both solid performers and we both attacked a 3' diameter oak tree with ours together in an afternoon that fell in his back yard. We both ran exclusively Oregon LGX's on 20" bars until recently when I switched to the EXJ. 

I'd buy another in a heartbeat if I intended to stick with gas. This will ultimately be the last gas saw I own. My little High Performance Ryobi 18v has stolen my heart after replacing and walking circles around my small companion saw (a Homelite XL) and I intend to simply get a bigger intermediate electric for harvesting; making the XP solely a processing or "big wood" saw.


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## sloeffle (Dec 8, 2022)

Thanks for all of the information. I'm being told that Santa Claus might be bringing me a 562XP. RK had them on sale a few weeks ago for $719 ( 20" bar ) and I thought about buying one but was told not to.

My biggest saw currently, is a 18 year old MS290. Zero complaints about it but I would like a 60CC - 70CC saw with auto tune and anti vibe. I have zero clue on how to tune a carb, so an auto tune type saw fits the bill for me. I'm not a big guy so running the 290 for any great length of time really wears me out. I can't stomach the prices that Stihl charges for a saw in this class so that's why I asked about the 562xp. I have zero loyalty to any company or brand. I'm a firm believer in buying the best "thing" for my dollar.


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## Nealm66 (Dec 8, 2022)

I think it was the 562 I got rid of and replaced with the 362. Half wrap handle bars just don’t work for me. Lots of power though. Can’t for the life of me figure out why stihl made they’re 400 a half wrap that needs aftermarket parts to make it full and placed it in their pro line. Crazy times


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## sloeffle (Dec 27, 2022)

Santa brought a 562XP, throughly impressed with it so far.


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## j7art2 (Jan 6, 2023)

sloeffle said:


> Santa brought a 562XP, throughly impressed with it so far.



Still running the stocker chain? If you need more "wow" factor, I highly recommend an Oregon LGX, EXL, or EXJ if you're able to get them. Bailey's online carries them if you can't find them locally. Luckily they're not too hard for me to get. All OEM Husqvarna chains are safety chains, even the ones with the 562 to my knowledge. Both mine, and my buddies (bought 4 years later) both came with one. 

Non-safety logging chains make a huge difference even in their own right (about 20% faster cutting in my experience), but it's not a necessary or desired upgrade for everyone.


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## sloeffle (Jan 6, 2023)

j7art2 said:


> Still running the stocker chain? If you need more "wow" factor, I highly recommend an Oregon LGX, EXL, or EXJ if you're able to get them. Bailey's online carries them if you can't find them locally. Luckily they're not too hard for me to get. All OEM Husqvarna chains are safety chains, even the ones with the 562 to my knowledge. Both mine, and my buddies (bought 4 years later) both came with one.
> 
> Non-safety logging chains make a huge difference even in their own right (about 20% faster cutting in my experience), but it's not a necessary or desired upgrade for everyone.


It's running the X-Cut chain chain, that's not a safety chain from what I can tell.  When I go sharpen the chain, I plan on taking a few swipes of the rakers with a file. I'm being told it will probably cut even better after that. I've probably used the saw for a solid two hours, and the chain still cuts like new.

I'm going from a MS290 with safety chain ( all my Stihl dealer will see an average joe off the street ) to a 562XP with non-safety chain, it has been like going from a Chevette to a Corvette. I bought a 24" Husqvarna Light bar ( made by Sugihara ) to cut down a decent size oak that the top blew out of. That should give it a run its money.


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## Sean McGillicuddy (Jan 6, 2023)

Did you get a 2in1 for that size chain ?


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## duramaxman05 (Jan 6, 2023)

j7art2 said:


> Still running the stocker chain? If you need more "wow" factor, I highly recommend an Oregon LGX, EXL, or EXJ if you're able to get them. Bailey's online carries them if you can't find them locally. Luckily they're not too hard for me to get. All OEM Husqvarna chains are safety chains, even the ones with the 562 to my knowledge. Both mine, and my buddies (bought 4 years later) both came with one.
> 
> Non-safety logging chains make a huge difference even in their own right (about 20% faster cutting in my experience), but it's not a necessary or desired upgrade for everyone.


I been getting my oregon chains off Amazon. I try to shop local but I can save quite a bit getting them on Amazon. Have to try save a little money when you can these days.


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## sloeffle (Saturday at 10:27 AM)

Sean McGillicuddy said:


> Did you get a 2in1 for that size chain ?


Yeah, I bought a Pferd 2in1 for that size chain.


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## sloeffle (Saturday at 10:32 AM)

duramaxman05 said:


> I been getting my oregon chains off Amazon. I try to shop local but I can save quite a bit getting them on Amazon. Have to try save a little money when you can these days.


Bought a 20” X-Cut full chisel ( kind of wish I bought semi-chisel now, oh well ) chain from Stahl Forestry supply for $17. That’s a lot cheaper than what I can get it locally for.


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## j7art2 (Monday at 12:13 PM)

sloeffle said:


> It's running the X-Cut chain chain, that's not a safety chain from what I can tell.  When I go sharpen the chain, I plan on taking a few swipes of the rakers with a file. I'm being told it will probably cut even better after that. I've probably used the saw for a solid two hours, and the chain still cuts like new.
> 
> I'm going from a MS290 with safety chain ( all my Stihl dealer will see an average joe off the street ) to a 562XP with non-safety chain, it has been like going from a Chevette to a Corvette. I bought a 24" Husqvarna Light bar ( made by Sugihara ) to cut down a decent size oak that the top blew out of. That should give it a run its money.




Unfortunately your link didn't work for me, but it appears that that most X-Cuts (from what I can tell from pictures) aren't safety chains, but apparently they do make versions of it that are too.  I was unaware that Husqvarna still made full tilt non-safeties. Good to know. 

The only difference is the thickness of the rakers as far as I know between the two. Safety chains have essentially double the thickness of the rakers (raker on each side of each section of chain rather than single sided.) That's how I tell anyway.

I get my chains from the local Amish hardware store -- they have tons of forestry supplies, and prices are good. I might save a few bucks on Amazon for the chain (I think I paid $20 for my 20" EXJ), but they have universal chainsaw wrenches for $1.50 a pop. I've bought so many now that I can truly afford to lose them and not care anymore which makes up for it.


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## salecker (Monday at 1:00 PM)

A few minuets with an angel grinder turns safety chains into regular chain...


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