# Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener



## george2c (Mar 1, 2013)

I came across this tool on here and read all the threads on it, but I haven't seen any recent reviews on it. Anyone out there using this and what do you think of it? I have always just used a file and a guide from stihl. I may not mind picking one up if they work good and the carbides last a good while. Man they are very expensive..  Thanks very much


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## NH_Wood (Mar 1, 2013)

A search will give you some info on this sharpener - I had thought about it too, but real pricey and seem slow - but a cool looking tool. If I decide to spend some cash on a sharpener, I think I'll spring for a grinder. Cheers!


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## KodiakII (Mar 1, 2013)

I have a grinder that sits idle in my basement...waiting for a real unfortunate chain catastrophe.  I love my Timberline and wouldn't trade it for a skid of files.  Many guys are reporting that the carbides are lasting for hundreds of sharpenings...just don't turn them counter clockwise.


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## jeff_t (Mar 1, 2013)

I used to touch up with a file after every tank of gas. I ran four tanks thru the other day, and was still throwing good chips. That was cutting only dead, dry ash, which is usually hard on chains for me. 

Don't know why it's that good, but it is. By the time the chain needs sharpening, so do I.


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## ArsenalDon (Mar 2, 2013)

jeff_t said:


> I used to touch up with a file after every tank of gas. I ran four tanks thru the other day, and was still throwing good chips. That was cutting only dead, dry ash, which is usually hard on chains for me.
> 
> Don't know why it's that good, but it is. By the time the chain needs sharpening, so do I.



Looks too easy....way easier than my file...hmmmmmm...next toy?


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## ArsenalDon (Mar 2, 2013)

Uh...never mind my last post...just saw the price...for a fin and a quarter I can buy a lot of files and they work fine for the money


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## george2c (Mar 2, 2013)

Thanks to all for the comments. My wife is gonna kill me again..


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## Ralphie Boy (Mar 2, 2013)

george2c said:


> Thanks to all for the comments. My wife is gonna kill me again


 
Here is one more, just to push you over the edge for sure. The Timberline is fantastic! Sharp and accurate beyond belief! Much better than most folks can do with a file. If you aren't an artist with a film you must have one. Also enter the code "Hearth" when you order and get 10% off! Takes a bit of the sting out of the purchase.


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## BrianK (Mar 2, 2013)

The Timberline is well worth the investment, no regrets. Excellent tool, easy to use, small, portable, always makes the chain just as sharp every time and removes very little metal. Just make sure you have the carbide well seated in the cutter and you clamp the device down tight on the bar.


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## MasterMech (Mar 2, 2013)

Probably the most fool-proof system I've seen for sharpening.  Grinders are great, especially for chains with rock/nail damage, but hand filed is sharper.  I'm sure the Timberline gets it just as sharp as a file too.


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## HillbillyDlux (Mar 2, 2013)

From what I have seen I am sold, however I just received a grinder from Northern Tool at the door two weeks ago..


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## jeff_t (Mar 3, 2013)

I had a couple of chains that had a good amount of hand filing. I couldn't get the timberline set up to sharpen both sides equally. Must be the way I filed the opposite cutters. The chains cut straight before I tried to sharpen with the timberline, but not after. They were both so bad they bound up and bogged the saw down. 

Chains sharpened with a grinder have a different profile, too. It's best to start with a new/newish chain.


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## Redbarn (Mar 3, 2013)

BrianK said:


> The Timberline is well worth the investment, no regrets. Excellent tool, easy to use, small, portable, always makes the chain just as sharp every time and removes very little metal. Just make sure you have the carbide well seated in the cutter and you clamp the device down tight on the bar.



+ 1


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## Dyno625 (Mar 3, 2013)

Used a hand file for years, and thought it was a fine way to sharpen a chain. Was also a little turned off by the price of the Timberline. After getting one as a birthday gift and using it a couple of times I can say I have no use for a hand file any longer. I would gladly pay for one if I had to after using it. I believe that you can improve a new chain with, it works that good. And it is consistent, virtually no way to not get a perfect chain with it.


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## HDRock (Mar 3, 2013)

Dyno625 said:


> Used a hand file for years, and thought it was a fine way to sharpen a chain. Was also a little turned off by the price of the Timberline. After getting one as a birthday gift and using it a couple of times I can say I have no use for a hand file any longer. I would gladly pay for one if I had to after using it. I believe that you can improve a new chain with, it works that good. And it is consistent, virtually no way to not get a perfect chain with it.


 
A lot of people say it is a very good tool
When U buy it U get one size carbide cutter right ? what size ?
Lets see ,  I would need 3 sizes, tool, $125, 2,cutters $20 each , about $165 + shipping ,hmm
How many chains can U sharpen before the cutter wears out ?


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## Pallet Pete (Mar 3, 2013)

HDRock said:


> A lot of people say it is a very good tool
> When U buy it U get one size carbide cutter right ? what size ?
> Lets see ,  I would need 3 sizes, tool, $125, 2,cutters $20 each , about $165 + shipping ,hmm
> How many chains can U sharpen before the cutter wears out ?


It is far far more accurate than hand filing and it also means much less taken off the tooth which means longer chain life. Did I show you my chains with the tiny teeth left on them those where timberline sharpened and held out forever. The $6 dollars per chain cost vs the cost for the timberline does add up to savings over time. The best part is its retard strong it still looks like new after all the abuse I give it ! The cutters still look new as well and they really take the metal off fast clean and without effort.

Pete


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## HDRock (Mar 3, 2013)

Pallet Pete said:


> It is far far more accurate than hand filing and it also means much less taken off the tooth which means longer chain life. Did I show you my chains with the tiny teeth left on them those where timberline sharpened and held out forever. The $6 dollars per chain cost vs the cost for the timberline does add up to savings over time. The best part is its retard strong it still looks like new after all the abuse I give it ! The cutters still look new as well and they really take the metal off fast clean and without effort.
> 
> Pete


It looks like it would be far more accurate , and looks to be a quality tool .
Ya , Pete , I remember the chains with the tiny teeth , that's a lot of use out of a chain 
Do they come with a 5/32 cutter or what, ? can U chose which size U want it to come with ?


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## wh401 (Mar 3, 2013)

Just ordered one on Friday after reading about it on here, can't wait to try it out. "Hearth," code was still good for $10.00 off too.


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## george2c (Mar 3, 2013)

Thanks guys for all the comments, I will most likely order one soon..


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## HDRock (Mar 3, 2013)

Ok, U can get it with 5/32,7/32,3/16, or 13/64
Carbides will last a _minimum_ of 30+ Sharpenings


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## Dyno625 (Mar 3, 2013)

It says carbide's last for 30 plus chains, not sharpenings. I think they mean for the life of 30 chains. That is a lot of sharpenings.


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## Pallet Pete (Mar 3, 2013)

HDRock said:


> Ok, U can get it with 5/32,7/32,3/16, or 13/64
> Carbides will last a _minimum_ of 30+ Sharpenings


I am way past 30 sharpenings ! 

Pete


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## fabsroman (Mar 3, 2013)

Looks like one heck of a nice tool. I just got the Northern Tool grinder a month or so ago, but am thinking about getting this Timberline one too now. How do you adjust the rakers with this Timberline tool, or do you just use the raker guide and a file to adjust the rakers after sharpening the chain with the Timberline tool. The Timberline tool just looks so much more simplistic than a grinder that it isn't even funny. I played around with my grinder the other day and it seemed like a pain to get all the angles lined up, etc. Granted, I have no idea if the stone in the grinder was the correct one, which might have been the cause of the problems.

The Timberline also seems like it would take a lot less metal off the cutter than a grinder, and there is no worry about excess heat on a cutter from the grinder. Would be something nice to have in the chainsaw box too for on the site sharpening when you are having a really bad day.


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## MasterMech (Mar 3, 2013)

fabsroman said:


> Granted, I have no idea if the stone in the grinder was the correct one, which might have been the cause of the problems.​


 
For the saws you have Fabs, should be a 3/16" wheel on the grinder.  1/4" or 5/16" for the rakers.



fabsroman said:


> The Timberline also seems like it would take a lot less metal off the cutter than a grinder,​


 
Going back and forth between grinder and file/Timberline will eat up chain quicker than sticking to one method.  There is a slightly different profile left behind by each method.  The grinder often will also take a bit more off of a new chain but once the first sharpening is done, you just barely touch each tooth to restore the edge.


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## HDRock (Mar 3, 2013)

Dyno625 said:


> It says carbide's last for 30 plus chains, not sharpenings. I think they mean for the life of 30 chains. That is a lot of sharpenings.


This (Carbides will last a _minimum_ of 30+ Sharpenings) I did not type in ,I copied and pasted it from their web site

Paste
ProductHighlights
Tungsten Carbide Cutters are designed specifically for the Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener. 4 diameter sizes are used to properly fit different sizes of chain.
7/32″ is used for 3/8″ pitch chain as well as .404″ pitch chain
13/64″is also used for 3/8″ pitch, but is slightly smaller and recommended on Stihl chain.
3/16″ is used for .325″ pitch chain
5/32″ is used for 3/8″ small Low Profile chain
7/32″ = 5.5 mm
13/64″ = 5.0 mm
3/16″ = 4.8 mm
5/32″ = 4.0 mm

Ask any machinist and they will tell you tungsten carbide is extremely tough and durable and will outlast any hardened steel file period. Because of its durability it is difficult to claim an exact lifespan. However, much testing and customer feedback allows us to confidently claim a* minimum* of 30+ sharpenings. Users may very well exceed 100+ sharpenings with careful use by not binding the carbide cutter and always spinning clockwise.
It is recommended to sharpen the chain often instead of waiting until it is extremely dull. This will make sharpening even faster with a quick touch up while reducing wear on both the carbide cutter and the chain itself.


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## fabsroman (Mar 3, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> For the saws you have Fabs, should be a 3/16" wheel on the grinder. 1/4" or 5/16" for the rakers.
> 
> 
> 
> Going back and forth between grinder and file/Timberline will eat up chain quicker than sticking to one method. There is a slightly different profile left behind by each method. The grinder often will also take a bit more off of a new chain but once the first sharpening is done, you just barely touch each tooth to restore the edge.


 
Alright, I'll give the grinder a go on a couple chains for the 660 and see how it goes. It will probably be a breeze once I get the hang of it. Just worried right now about:

1) Taking too much off and
2) Overheating the cutter.

I tend to worry too much about most things.


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## HDRock (Mar 4, 2013)




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## BobUrban (Mar 4, 2013)

Looks pretty much fool proof.  I may have bought one if I didn't just find a grinder for $25.00 on CL.  Grinders clearly take a little more set up but once you have it set they are quick and if you are careful they don't take too much off the tooth.  Just go slow and you wont burn the teeth or damge the temper.  Working with steel fabrication and smithing knives makes me think someone would have to really put the grind on to damage a tooth with one.  Touch, touch, touch with the wheel and move to the next tooth. 

As far as longevity of the timberline cutter if used with caution and well cared for I would bet the average homeowner, firewood cutter could get many years of sharpening before it needed replacing.


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## Dyno625 (Mar 4, 2013)

HDRock said:


> This (Carbides will last a _minimum_ of 30+ Sharpenings) I did not type in ,I copied and pasted it from their web site
> 
> Paste
> ProductHighlights
> ...


Okay, I guess I read that wrong but so far wear on the carbide doesn't seem like an issue.


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## STICK (Mar 4, 2013)

This is it.  Precision. Either in the shop or field.
Very impressive tool. I could use this on a bench or in the field on a log with equal results. I went onto the website http://www.timberlinesharpener.com and found the promo code HEARTH still gives a 10 buck discount. That fairly well covers shipping. If this sharpening method extends chain life and efficiency, it would well be worth it. Simple. Precise. Removes minimum steel from the cutter. I like  "the feel of the steel"


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## jeff_t (Mar 5, 2013)

I ran four tanks thru my Makita 6401 last week, cutting dead ash, and was still throwing good chips. Did it need to be touched up? Yes, but it still cut well.

I ran three tanks thru on Friday, and two and a half yesterday. It's still going strong. My hand filed chains would have been blowing dust long ago. I think I'll see how long I can go on this one. Kinda like a Blaze King burn


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## HDRock (Mar 5, 2013)

Dyno625 said:


> Okay, I guess I read that wrong but so far wear on the carbide doesn't seem like an issue.


Yeah, looks like cutters will last a good long while


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## george2c (Mar 6, 2013)

Just ordered.. Got 15 off for being a member here. I will let you know what I think..


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## HDRock (Mar 6, 2013)

How did U get $15 off ? hearth discount is $10


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## george2c (Mar 6, 2013)

I called him today and asked for a discount. I also own a small sporting goods store and gun shop and sell some hardware and tools. I am an avid wood cutter and heat my house with mostly wood. I may want to stock the timberline and sell it out of my store but I want to give it a try first. I will keep and use this one for my self but if it works good I will buy some to sell.. I was taught by my father about 30 years ago how to sharpen with just a file and have done it that way ever since. I am happy with the results but just want to see if this is better. I hope this helps.. I will make sure to let you guys know what I think of it. I know if someone would show folks how to sharpen with a file just 1 time it really is very simple but takes a little patience.. My dad was taught by a very nice guy who still to this day owns and operated a small stihl store, he actually has a giant plastic chain he will pull out to teach people how to do it.


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## HDRock (Mar 7, 2013)

george2c said:


> I called him today and asked for a discount. I also own a small sporting goods store and gun shop and sell some hardware and tools. I am an avid wood cutter and heat my house with mostly wood. I may want to stock the timberline and sell it out of my store but I want to give it a try first. I will keep and use this one for my self but if it works good I will buy some to sell.. I was taught by my father about 30 years ago how to sharpen with just a file and have done it that way ever since. I am happy with the results but just want to see if this is better. I hope this helps.. I will make sure to let you guys know what I think of it. I know if someone would show folks how to sharpen with a file just 1 time it really is very simple but takes a little patience.. My dad was taught by a very nice guy who still to this day owns and operated a small stihl store, he actually has a giant plastic chain he will pull out to teach people how to do it.


 
I think many people on here want perfection, and it seems like the Timberline does that, and for a bonus it is easy, and for people that have never sharpened a chain the easy part would be first and perfection would be the bonus


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## wh401 (Mar 8, 2013)

Received my sharpener and proceeded to try it out on the picco micro chain on my 192. Setup was easy if you've watched the instruction video. How much of the tooth you take off depends on how far you adjust the knob that moves the tooth forward towards the bit. You don't need the tooth pushing very hard against the bit, just firmly touching. Gave the saw a run last night cutting up some 5" diameter red oak, and then felled a 12" diameter red oak. I was amazed at the sharpness of the blade, it's definitely the closest thing to factory that I've ever felt. For years I always thought you could never achieve that except with a new chain. This sharpener is definitely worth the money. Can't wait to see how it makes the full chisel on my 390 feel.


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## Clarkbug (Mar 9, 2013)

I had the same problem with getting chains to sharpen properly from side to side.  I also can see some visible wear on the carbide, along the taper point. 

Turns out that where there is the center knob, there is a sheet metal plate that helps press against the chain as its mounted into the bar.  Somehow along the line I got this buggered up, and it wasnt doing its job, so the chain was shifting sideways depending on how I tried to sharpen.  (Note this was only with .325 chain).  I got in touch with Phil, the owner, and he gave me some tips to get straightened back out.

Definitely check the tips that are on the page if you are using it on a chain for the first time.  Leaving the sharpener knobs loose the first trip around lets the cutter carve out the right profile on the tooth, and from there it works pretty darn well.

Only other item I see is that when the tooth gets really small, you can run the risk of actually cutting into the stop prawl if you arent careful.  Not an issue most of the time, but I found out the hard way 

I had fairly good luck with the sharpener, but I had a really excessively dirty load of wood also.  Im waiting to try it again on some clean wood to see how many tanks I can put through it and stay with a sharp chain.


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## george2c (Mar 12, 2013)

Well I got mine they other day in the mail. Nice tool easy to use. I will need to cut some more wood to give an honest opinion on it. I took both saws today one done with the timberline and one hand filed and I coudnt tell that much difference. Now to be fair The one I used the timberline on I only went threw each tooth twice lightly. It cut good and threw nice sized chunks, but my hand filed one did also. I will see how it goes here in the next few weeks. I cut some locust, cherry, and maple.. I will report back but it will be a few weeks as I only get out to cut some wood 1 time per week..  I would say for anyone who cannot hand file or isn't that good hand filing to buy one it works good..


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## ErikR (Nov 11, 2013)

After researching the Timberline sharpener on this site and reading the reviews on Amazon, I pulled the trigger. I just finished sharpening one of my chains. The chain was in pretty good shape to start with, it felt sharp, but it was throwing smallish chips of wood.

I'm going out after lunch to try the chain on some of the dry, barkless  oak logs I've got stacked up.




I did learn a few things from my first use.... Wear gloves, little metal filings make great slivers. Don't sit so the chain/blade is over your clothes, again, metal filings.... Over all, I thought it was an easy tool to use. It took me a few minutes to get it set up, but that will improve with practice and use.

Well, that was fun... cuts like a hot knife through butter!


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## KodiakII (Nov 13, 2013)

i put a little oil on the cutter (just a drop or two), it helps keep those nasty little cuttings under control.


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## ErikR (Nov 13, 2013)

KodiakII said:


> i put a little oil on the cutter (just a drop or two), it helps keep those nasty little cuttings under control.



Thanks for the tip. I'll try that next time.


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