# To cover, or not to cover, THAT is the quesion



## ansehnlich1 (Jul 20, 2013)

Oh my, how many threads, how many posts, how much bandwidth, how much time, oh how much time spent reading the views, the opinions, the methodologies, the science, the formulas, the wind, the air, the location, the depth of rows, size of stack, on the ground, off the ground, in the air, the basement, the garage, pallets, sticks, stacked on concrete, on stones, cover with tarps, plastic, rolled roofing, tin, bark up, bark down, wood shed, open sides, closed, wind damage, bugs, sawdust, snakes, moisture content, holz hauzens, wheelbarrows, distance from house, termites, younameitwegotit.

Consider this....

Those who cover don't worry about the rain, it is only those who don't cover that question whether they should or not.

SOOOOOOO, if it was definite that rain has NO effect on a woodpile, then why would a thread ever come into being that questioned whether the pile should be covered or not?

Hence, my proclamation that, Covering Wood is Good!

All my wood, all the time, gets cut, split, stacked on pallets, and covered


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## lumbering on (Jul 20, 2013)

All my stacks are in full view of my already skeptical neighbors.

I chose not to cover for aesthetic reasons.  The stacks look good uncovered. The neighbors don't complain about my "junking" up the neighborhood with plastic/rubber/sheet metal.

Another compromise for the suburban homesteader.


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## Backwoods Savage (Jul 20, 2013)

Well, some like to buy a Cadillacs and others buy second hand Fords.

Remember quads? Many on this forum had and still have good respect for him, including me. He never covered his stacks and got along just fine. I do have some stacks out there now that have not been covered and the wood was cut in 2010. I did it just for kicks. Normally I split and stack in March/April but do not cover until November/December. Our wood does just fine.


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## Butcher (Jul 20, 2013)

I like  my farwood like a well endowd ladies breasts. Uncovered. But hey thats just me.


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## gzecc (Jul 20, 2013)

Backwoods Savage said:


> Well, some like to buy a Cadillacs and others buy second hand Fords.
> 
> Remember quads? Many on this forum had and still have good respect for him, including me. He never covered his stacks and got along just fine. I do have some stacks out there now that have not been covered and the wood was cut in 2010. I did it just for kicks. Normally I split and stack in March/April but do not cover until November/December. Our wood does just fine.


 More importantly, where is Quads?


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## Dix (Jul 20, 2013)

Butcher said:


> I like my farwood like a well endowd ladies breasts. Uncovered. But hey thats just me.


 

Me, too.


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## Ashful (Jul 20, 2013)

Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle said:


> Me, too.



Ummm... which?


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## Dix (Jul 20, 2013)

Joful said:


> Ummm... which?


 
You're kidding, right??


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## ScotO (Jul 20, 2013)

This argument rears it's ugly head several times a season (usually in the summer/fall) on here. And I've said it many times, I stack my wood in multiple rows (around 8 to be precise), off of the ground on skids, and I top cover it. But I usually only top-cover the wood I plan on using in a given winter around August. I usually let it season two years without the top cover, the third year it gets covered. I'll be top-covering ALL of it this summer as I now have enough rubber roofing material to do so....

As Sav mentioned above, different strokes fer different folks. some people get along fine without covering their stacks, some don't. I choose to top-cover because it works for me, and it works fantastic.....





Starting next year, the woodshed will come to fruition.....


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## WeldrDave (Jul 20, 2013)

Butcher said:


> ladies breasts. Uncovered.


MMMM........ tata's.....Oh, where are we...... yea wood piles,   easy, uncovered while drying, snow bearing lands north of central NJ, cover in winter, south of central NJ, not enough snow to really worry about unless you live in high elevations.
Ive never covered but when we did get snow, it would have been nice to have dry wood to bring in  Those Ba$ta&ds at the tax board here will tax you for wood shelters in this neck of the woods thats one reason why I don't.  If i lived in say upstate PA or NY, Mass etc.... I would cover in winter with out a doubt!


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## ansehnlich1 (Jul 20, 2013)

Aw, I don't know why I started this thread, I guess it was in response to another thread. Heck, it was Saturday morning and I was bored.


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## Dix (Jul 20, 2013)

ansehnlich1 said:


> Aw, I don't know why I started this thread, I guess it was in response to another thread. Heck, it was Saturday morning and I was bored.


 
I'm over it, sorry for the derail Ans...

I top cover about the end of September, depends on the weather. Firewood 2 years ahead never gets top covered, until it's time to meet its maker


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## weatherguy (Jul 21, 2013)

I cover all my wood before the leaves fall or else I end up with rotting leaves in between the splits, learned that the first year.


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## ansehnlich1 (Jul 21, 2013)

Doing The Dixie Eyed Hustle said:


> I'm over it, sorry for the derail Ans...


 
Hey, if ever there was a derailable thread this one would be it.

I was thinking about the cube thread where the wood's stacked solid, like 8 or 9 rows, and the question was to cover or not to cover, hence my thread.

I signed up here back in 2006 and it's just a hoot seeing the eternal discussion on all these wood items....I wonder how they burned firewood back in the day, pre internet.

A couple years ago I dug up some locust post that was buried since the early '60's and burned 'em, go figure.

I've seen construction lumber sit out uncovered for years and still was burnable.

But I CAN'T STAND the thought of my precious firewood being exposed to torrential rains and heavy snows for 2 or 3 years without being covered, the mere thought of it drives me crazy


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## red oak (Jul 21, 2013)

Dave USCG said:


> MMMM........ tata's.....Oh, where are we...... yea wood piles, easy, uncovered while drying, snow bearing lands north of central NJ, cover in winter, south of central NJ, not enough snow to really worry about unless you live in high elevations.
> Ive never covered but when we did get snow, it would have been nice to have dry wood to bring in Those Ba$ta&ds at the tax board here will tax you for wood shelters in this neck of the woods thats one reason why I don't. If i lived in say upstate PA or NY, Mass etc.... I would cover in winter with out a doubt!


 
This is why I don't have a woodshed - the cost!  Years ago I considered building a woodshed but when I priced out what I would need it just wasn't worth it to me.  I tried with tarps but they were just ripped up by a strong wind.  So I put some under my deck (free) and I put about a week's worth in my basement (free).  That way I always have dry wood on hand if needed.  The main piles remain uncovered, and unless it's rained or snowed recently they burn just fine.  If it has rained or snowed recently it gets set by the stove for a few days and it's good to go. 

Recently I took down an old building for my mother and kept the sheets of metal roofing.  I'm going to use this to top cover, similar to what BWS does.  I'm curious to see if I'll notice a difference, but the great thing about it is the roofing sheets were FREE.


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## Backwoods Savage (Jul 21, 2013)

gzecc said:


> More importantly, where is Quads?


 
I'm still looking for him.


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## firefighterjake (Jul 22, 2013)

Uncovered . . . for the first year or two . . . but then it goes into the woodshed for another year before being burned in Year 3 . . . or 4. Buy then the wood is plenty dry.

And yeah . . . I miss Quads. Hope he is doing OK.


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## oldspark (Jul 22, 2013)

I got 2 cents, 60 mph winds at times and single rows=no top cover for me until late fall and then just what I think I will need for that winter, I have to cover the whole row due to sidways snow.


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## Paulywalnut (Jul 22, 2013)

Uncovered for first year or two with oak. I like the air to circulate up through the stacks also.
I cover what i'll typically use for the season in November, only to keep it snow free. No snow to speak of
for two years.. Oh well, maybe 2013.


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## Ashful (Jul 22, 2013)

Paulywalnut said:


> No snow to speak of for two years.. Oh well, maybe 2013.


 

Sorry, that's my fault. I bought a new snowblower in 2011.




Warranty will be expired before I get to use it once!


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## bogydave (Jul 22, 2013)

Mine are uncovered for a year.  The birch stacks have space between rows for good air circ.
Wood types matter with seasoning times & can it get wet repeatedly & not rot. ( birch, maple are 2 that benefit from being covered )


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## Kenster (Aug 21, 2013)

I've never covered my stacks in the past.  I keep several days worth of firewood on our big covered porch so, if some is brought up wet due to recent rain, it will be plenty dry by the time it goes into the stove. 
However... Due to a recent hail storm, we are replacing our metal roof.  I now had approximately 5500 square feet of metal roof panels.  I set aside a dozen 16 feet long by about 3ft wide panels to be used for a shed.  Plus, several more 16x2 sheets that I'll use to cover "this year's" stacks. I have to stack on the edge of the tree line.  Intense Texas summer sun and prevailing winds from southwest dry my oak pretty quickly.  The biggest advantage to topping stacks for me is keeping leaves and other debris out of the stacks.  Stacks for future years will remain uncovered. 

By the way, I gave away about 80% of the old roof materials to two very good neighbor buddies who are always helping me out with something.


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## Oregon aloha (Aug 22, 2013)

red oak said:


> This is why I don't have a woodshed - the cost!


 
That was my issue, so I started watching Craigslist for people tearing down stuff. Within a month I was able to get most of what I needed to build my wood shed complete with an  aluminum roof and gutters. It holds 5 cords of wood and cost me just under $100.


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## Hickorynut (Aug 22, 2013)

I like to cover after a couple of years. After leaving some red oak stacked uncovered for 4 or 5 years(maybe longer) I had a rotten mess with the bark and sapwood.  Mostly with the top couple of layers.  Other woods there wouldn't be such a problem though.  Talking about woodsheds I made a off the ground beagle pen that had a wooden floor and tin roof into a woodshed.  Works great and looks cool.


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## Woody Stover (Aug 24, 2013)

Hickorynut said:


> I like to cover after a couple of years. After leaving some red oak stacked uncovered for 4 or 5 years(maybe longer) I had a rotten mess with the bark and sapwood


Oak is the prevalent wood here. I take mostly dead standing or down trees. I love burning it when it's finally dry but when I get it, the sapwood is almost always in some stage of decay. It's gotta slow drying, I don't really like running that stuff through my combustor, it doesn't give off much heat, and is a mess to bring in the house. It's an all-around pain in the arse.    Gotta deal with it though, 'cuz I gets a lotta Oak.

I'll leave wood uncovered after I split it, until the first time it rains. It then remains covered.


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## ansehnlich1 (Aug 24, 2013)

.......and on the 8th day, He covered His wood stacks, and saw that it was good


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## WeldrDave (Aug 24, 2013)

ansehnlich1 said:


> .......and on the 8th day, He covered His wood stacks, and saw that it was good ​


 ...... and on the 29th day a hurricane comes and blow's the S#IT all over the place


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## JustWood (Aug 25, 2013)

The obsessiveness most have on this site with equipment, processing/gathering, species BTU's, and stacking methods, I have no idea why anyone wood leave out the most important phase of wood burning. Keeping it dry.


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## oldspark (Aug 25, 2013)

Dave USCG said:


> ...... and on the 29th day a hurricane comes and blow's the S#IT all over the place


That's a big 10-4, on a ridge here and we can see 50 mph winds several times a summer, lots of wind and single rows I dont need to cover but I am sure some of yu need it.


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## Seanm (Aug 25, 2013)

Im with the OP. I cant stand to see rain dripping through my stacks! Did a sample of my larch a week ago and found that they were between 11%-17% on fresh split splits. I had the covers off for about a week but this summer weve had thunder storms for what seems like 5 days a week. I have had mushrooms growing on my lawn in August which I haven't seen before. Usually pretty dry around then. The family and I went to Vancouver for a week and the weather looked like it was going to be dry and hot and I thought it would be nice to uncover but couldn't stand to be there and see the weather change here so I left them covered. Of course we came home last night to a heavy and wet thunder storm.....


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## Ashful (Aug 25, 2013)

Just covered my 2013/2014 stacks today. Somewhere around 5-1/2 cords, by my estimation. Rain due on Tuesday night.

My 2014/2015 wood will remain uncovered, until this time next year.


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## swagler85 (Aug 25, 2013)

I started covering all my dry stacks last year and it made a big difference. Right now I have 3 cord under my back porch roof and another 4 cord ready to go that I covered today. New to me but old house this year so expecting to burn a lot more than the 4 cord I burned last year. I can't wait to fire up the new princess this fall


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## Wood Duck (Aug 25, 2013)

We are discussing covering as if all types of covers work equally well. I think a rigid cover or carefully placed flexible cover on a stack of wood is a great help. A saggy, puddle-filled plastic tarp draped over a pile of splits is worse than nothing.

My stacks are mostly uncovered because I don't have anything on hand to cover them.


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## Coal Reaper (Aug 26, 2013)

i will be top-covering from now on. just started moving wood (mostly black birch, soft maple, and ash) in for the winter that has been uncovered for the past year and some of it was quite damp int he middle. seasoned and bowling pin sounding, but damp on the outside. now we havent had rain here for 10 days or so. ripped apart some of the 2014/15 stack (mostly oak and black locust) that has been under steel barn siding for a month and those are dry, not seasoned yet but dry. after observing this, i dont see how top covering can be anything but positive. i stack two rows wide so that may have something to do with it. i will say that the ground in between my stacks always seems damp. everything is up on pallets 4' between rows to get the airflow so i would think it should be dryer. trying to aquire some rubber roofing to lay under the pallets. think that would help?
side note: moving a winters worth of wood into the barn is taking me a lot longer than expected!


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## DuckDog (Aug 26, 2013)

I am a top cover guy but I am also a crazy weather watcher.  I will cover / uncover my stacks 2-3 times in a week based on the weather. It literally takes less that 5 minutes.  I use plywood to cover my stacks and they are near the house. Usually only 3 cord on site.


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## treefrog359 (Aug 27, 2013)

I am a top cover guy too. my piles are seven rows wide.  the twist I put on it is that I put a crown in the center of the pile to help prevent water leaks into the pile. I have just finished stacking 21 cords of wood. two months before the fires are light so there is a ton of time to dry


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## Backwoods Savage (Aug 28, 2013)

treefrog359 said:


> I am a top cover guy too. my piles are seven rows wide. the twist I put on it is that I put a crown in the center of the pile to help prevent water leaks into the pile. I have just finished stacking 21 cords of wood. two months before the fires are light so there is a ton of time to dry


 
No disrespect intended at all but 2 months is not much time for drying wood.


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## oldspark (Aug 28, 2013)

Backwoods Savage said:


> No disrespect intended at all but 2 months is not much time for drying wood.


 I thought the same thing BWS but I believe the little man with the shades grinning ment he was kidding.


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## treefrog359 (Aug 29, 2013)

sorry I was in a rush. my wood has been cut for over a year. sitting in a large pile drying out. then in late summer I start splitting.  I have checked most of my rounds and the MC was around 23 to 25%. I split small in order to add in drying. around hear there is a almost constant wind living on top of a hill and no shade around the wood.  I checked some of the earlier stacked wood and it is 15%  or under. oh and backwoods savage I am hear to learn and I do not mind some one asking questions when something is not clear.


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## ansehnlich1 (Aug 29, 2013)

Hey treefrog, what kind of stove you got? I'm burning a Jotul, and it likes dry wood for sure, don't burn right when water's sizzlin' out the ends of the splits. I'll be burning almost all red oak this winter and it's been stacked and COVERED for over 4 years 

Get you some pictures up on here of this woodpile, and your stove setup......maybe start a thread on it, I know all the guys and gals around here like pictures!


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## Backwoods Savage (Aug 29, 2013)

treefrog359 said:


> sorry I was in a rush. my wood has been cut for over a year. sitting in a large pile drying out. then in late summer I start splitting. I have checked most of my rounds and the MC was around 23 to 25%. I split small in order to add in drying. around hear there is a almost constant wind living on top of a hill and no shade around the wood. I checked some of the earlier stacked wood and it is 15% or under. oh and backwoods savage I am hear to learn and I do not mind some one asking questions when something is not clear.


 
Treefrog, you'll get along fine. No doubt you will be doing things right. You've also no doubt learned it is still best to get that wood split before late summer as it will dry much, much faster. I like being on the hill with wind and sun. You have some ideal conditions there. Good luck.


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## Bacffin (Aug 30, 2013)

Top cover here...  Stack between trees single row, top cover and forget about it for 2 years.  Been working so far.


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## MrWhoopee (Aug 30, 2013)

If rain was the only concern, It would leave my stacks uncovered. Rain runs off quickly and does not penetrate very deeply A foot or two of snow melting slowly over a period of days or weeks is another story. I top cover in the late fall.


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## KaptJaq (Aug 30, 2013)

I top cover when the leaves start to fall and leave it covered until after the spring rains...  I have a blocks of stacks, each stack is 10 to 12 feet long and there are 12 to15 stacks per block with about an 8 inch gap between stacks.  When the gaps fill with leaves, then with snow, nothing stays dry.  When I stack the centers are about 7 feet high, the edges around 6 feet.  This creates a crown (like a road) so the water quickly runs off the top cover.  I hate snow covered wood or having to scrape frozen leaves off before bringing it into the house... 

KaptJaq


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## BrotherBart (Aug 30, 2013)

If you think rain and snow do good things for your firewood, don't cover it.


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## Brewmonster (Aug 30, 2013)

_I am a top cover guy but I am also a crazy weather watcher. I will cover / uncover my stacks 2-3 times in a week based on the weather. It literally takes less that 5 minutes. I use plywood to cover my stacks and they are near the house. Usually only 3 cord on site. _
_--DuckDog_

Five minutes to cover or uncover three cords? You user name should be Speedy Gonzales! That just seems like way too much work for me. My stuff stays covered from the day the stack is finished till the day I bring it in the house. Top cover over pallets to allow air circulation_._
It's funny how many people believe that firewood, unlike every other thing in the world, doesn't get wet in the rain. I wonder if they are the same people who believe that hot water makes ice cubes faster than cold water.


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## ansehnlich1 (Aug 31, 2013)

BrotherBart said:


> If you think rain and snow do good things for your firewood, don't cover it.


 
I never considered this BB, it's an amazing thought, my wood is covered, and they're calling for thunderstorms the next couple days, should I go out and uncover it?


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## oldspark (Aug 31, 2013)

How many times can you beat a dead horse?


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## firecracker_77 (Aug 31, 2013)

Scotty Overkill said:


> This argument rears it's ugly head several times a season (usually in the summer/fall) on here. And I've said it many times, I stack my wood in multiple rows (around 8 to be precise), off of the ground on skids, and I top cover it. But I usually only top-cover the wood I plan on using in a given winter around August. I usually let it season two years without the top cover, the third year it gets covered. I'll be top-covering ALL of it this summer as I now have enough rubber roofing material to do so....
> 
> As Sav mentioned above, different strokes fer different folks. some people get along fine without covering their stacks, some don't. I choose to top-cover because it works for me, and it works fantastic.....
> 
> ...


 
Wow...nice stack.  How long is that and what is the width?


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## MrWhoopee (Aug 31, 2013)

oldspark said:


> How many times can you beat a dead horse?


A dead horse never objects to being beaten.


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## ansehnlich1 (Aug 31, 2013)

oldspark said:


> How many times can you beat a dead horse?


 
Haha! Now THAT is funny That's the exact, without argument, bottom line, no lie, intent of this entire thread 

I joined up here back in '06 (and ain't been banned......yet ) and I've heard bantered about the barn and back the question of covering wood, and it really ain't a big deal what a guy/gal does far as I'm concerned, and most of all, I'm just thrilled to be a part of a great group of wood burners, stickin' it to the oil man


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## oldspark (Aug 31, 2013)

My point was that I think for the most part you have to find out what works for you.


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## BillLion (Sep 5, 2013)

Hey all, I'm brand new to these forums and only a couple years into burning wood with our fireplace insert. Man, I've become obsessed quickly! 

In January I began collecting wood instead of (or in addition to I guess) buying dry/split cords. I got apple, black locust, norway maple, pin oak & elm (ugh!) split and stacked on pallets.

I know this thread is funny/frustrating to you vets, but it's very interesting to me as a I try to figure all of this out. The guy I buy wood from encouraged me to leave the wood uncovered until winter & then to cover to keep the snow out. He's a solid guy, and his wood is always great so I'm taking his advice and I'll see how it goes.

So short answer: Uncovered for this novice...for now!


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## Ashful (Sep 5, 2013)

BillLion said:


> The guy I buy wood from encouraged me to leave the wood uncovered until winter & then to cover to keep the snow out. He's a solid guy, and his wood is always great so I'm taking his advice and I'll see how it goes.


Nothing wrong with that.  I used to cover as soon as split, but the wisdom of several on this forum has convinced me to give your plan a try, too.

Welcome to the Hearth!


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## captjack (Sep 5, 2013)

I built a 20x12 lean-to shed this year.  The sides and back are pallets so air can flow.    I have been curious if this will work better than just leaving out in the open.  The shed is in the woods and it only gets a little sun but has good air flow.   I am building another one this weekend.  I will have about 26 (give or take) under roof.   Most of it is red oak.   I really dont like the idea of moving wood from stacks to the shed every year.  This just seems like a lot of extra work.  It will be interesting to see how the wood dries in the sheds verses out in the field.


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## BillLion (Sep 5, 2013)

Joful said:


> Nothing wrong with that.  I used to cover as soon as split, but the wisdom of several on this forum has convinced me to give your plan a try, too.
> 
> Welcome to the Hearth!



Thanks & good luck!


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## MrWhoopee (Sep 5, 2013)

In a recent thread on the other site
http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/243659.htm

one of the respondents referred to a study of wood drying/storing methods.
http://www.aqfairbanks.com/wp-content/uploads/Wood-Storage-Best-Practices-Final-Report-2.pdf

The study was done in Alaska and utilized the major fuel woods available there (white birch, spruce, aspen and cottonwood). The findings are interesting.


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## jharkin (Sep 5, 2013)

MrWhoopee said:


> http://www.aqfairbanks.com/wp-content/uploads/Wood-Storage-Best-Practices-Final-Report-2.pdf



Thanks for a great read - interesting to see its actually been studied scientifically. I am amzed that the fully tarp covered wood dried at all!
Id love to see a similar test with eastern hardwoods...


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## BillLion (Sep 5, 2013)

MrWhoopee said:


> In a recent thread on the other site
> http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/243659.htm
> 
> one of the respondents referred to a study of wood drying/storing methods.
> ...



What a super helpful resource. Very interesting how quickly the uncovered wood dried, but then regained moisture in the elements. Thanks for sharing!


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## oldspark (Sep 5, 2013)

BillLion said:


> What a super helpful resource. Very interesting how quickly the uncovered wood dried, but then regained moisture in the elements. Thanks for sharing!


Unless the wood is wet for a long time the moisture from rain only soaks in a small distance and then is quickly dried out with sun and wind.


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## Machria (Sep 5, 2013)

I disagree with ALL of you!


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## ansehnlich1 (Sep 5, 2013)

Machria said:


> I disagree with ALL of you!



Now THAT is funny! 

I noticed some high tech scientific research from other sources being thrown into the mix here, appears we here don't have a monopoly on this craziness eh?......interesting stuff.


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## MrWhoopee (Sep 5, 2013)

oldspark said:


> Unless the wood is wet for a long time the moisture from rain only soaks in a small distance and then is quickly dried out with sun and wind.


 That has always been my contention, however:

From the cited study

*Uncovered
*
This storage method was studied only for the spring firewood harvest. The moisture content of the
spring harvest firewood left uncovered fell rapidly over the summer months (Figure 1c). Split firewood
met the 20% moisture content criteria for a full cure within approximately 6 weeks. The rate of drying
was similar to the firewood stored in the simulated wood sheds. However, the uncovered firewood
was highly susceptible to absorption of moisture from rain, snow, and frost. For example, the split
birch had dried from an initial moisture content of 57% to 19% by early July, then had increased to 35%
by late August, presumably due to rain immediately prior to the August sampling event. The moisture
regained by the firewood over the late summer and winter had dissipated by the final sampling event
in early summer 2011


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## oldspark (Sep 5, 2013)

MrWhoopee said:


> That has always been my contention, however:
> 
> From the cited study
> 
> ...


yea I read it and its a good read but I just dont agree with that and can find many sites saying it does not soak in much and I have not covered my wood for over 30 years and have never it had it pick up any moisture to speak of, next time it rains I can go split a piece and see what it reads, I do cover what I think I need for the winter in late fall but other wise it never gets covered.


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## BillLion (Sep 5, 2013)

oldspark said:


> Unless the wood is wet for a long time the moisture from rain only soaks in a small distance and then is quickly dried out with sun and wind.


That's what my wood guy says, so I'm going uncovered until winter to see how it goes. Thanks!


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## BillLion (Sep 5, 2013)

oldspark said:


> yea I read it and its a good read but I just dont agree with that and can find many sites saying it does not soak in much and I have not covered my wood for over 30 years and have never it had it pick up any moisture to speak of, next time it rains I can go split a piece and see what it reads, I do cover what I think I need for the winter in late fall but other wise it never gets covered.


Is that purely to keep the snow out?


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## oldspark (Sep 5, 2013)

BillLion said:


> Is that purely to keep the snow out?


yea mainly, at that point in time the seasoning is done so I am just trying to keep the wood dry as it goes in the garage and would take forever to dry the surface moisture. In the winter we dont have the warm temps so once it gets wet after its cold it stays that way for a long time outside.


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## BillLion (Sep 5, 2013)

oldspark said:


> yea mainly, at that point in time the seasoning is done so I am just trying to keep the wood dry as it goes in the garage and would take forever to dry the surface moisture. In the winter we dont have the warm temps so once it gets wet after its cold it stays that way for a long time outside.


That's very helpful. Thank you.


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## HDRock (Sep 5, 2013)

oldspark said:


> yea I read it and its a good read but I just dont agree with that and can find many sites saying it does not soak in much and I have not covered my wood for over 30 years and have never it had it pick up any moisture to speak of, next time it rains I can go split a piece and see what it reads, I do cover what I think I need for the winter in late fall but other wise it never gets covered.


I was out splitting n checking some ash, some under my make shift shed, and some that has been uncovered since March and there was no difference,  it has been dry here last couple of weeks.
If there is bark on the wood it will hold a little more moisture a little longer though.
I will cover all of mine just before the leafs really start falling cuz when they do, It's like it is snowing out back ,woods on the east side wind comes from the east


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## MrWhoopee (Sep 6, 2013)

oldspark said:


> yea I read it and its a good read but I just dont agree with that and can find many sites saying it does not soak in much and I have not covered my wood for over 30 years and have never it had it pick up any moisture to speak of, next time it rains I can go split a piece and see what it reads, I do cover what I think I need for the winter in late fall but other wise it never gets covered.


 
Not sure what you disagree with, it's just data. I was just surprised that the total moisture content rose that much. Because they weigh a piece of wood, oven dry it and weigh it again, we have no idea how deeply the water penetrated.  I suspect that a moisture meter would have measured very high moisture content on the surface and little or no change towards the center. It would have been nice to know how recently it had rained and what the MC was a week later and a month later. My thought was that, if you live in an area of frequent summer rain, it might be beneficial to top cover the coming winter's wood sooner.


----------



## oldspark (Sep 6, 2013)

MrWhoopee said:


> Not sure what you disagree with, it's just data. I was just surprised that the total moisture content rose that much. Because they weigh a piece of wood, oven dry it and weigh it again, we have no idea how deeply the water penetrated.  I suspect that a moisture meter would have measured very high moisture content on the surface and little or no change towards the center. It would have been nice to know how recently it had rained and what the MC was a week later and a month later. My thought was that, if you live in an area of frequent summer rain, it might be beneficial to top cover the coming winter's wood sooner.


 
Exactly what I was getting at, the moisture only was on the outside and not in the middle, the data is misleading.


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## BillLion (Sep 6, 2013)

oldspark said:


> Exactly what I was getting at, the moisture only was on the outside and not in the middle, the data is misleading.



Interesting too that there was a big difference between the moisture change with different types of trees.


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## Machria (Sep 7, 2013)

I'd like to see data / study of what the actual affects of moister in wood is, in real life.  Got a feeling it doesn't make as much difference as everyone thinks.


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## MrWhoopee (Sep 7, 2013)

Machria said:


> I'd like to see data / study of what the actual affects of moister in wood is, in real life.  Got a feeling it doesn't make as much difference as everyone thinks.


 
Funny you should ask:

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr29.pdf
"The effect of moisture content on recoverable heat energy is quite significant, and wood or bark fuels may contain considerable amounts of moisture. Evaluation of wood or bark as fuel should consider the effect of moisture on recoverable heat energy."

http://www.fs.fed.us/pnw/pubs/pnw_rn450.pdf
"High moisture content in firewood results in less effective burning of the wood and in a loss of energy in evaporating the water during burning. A cord of paper birch _(Betula papyrifera _Marsh.) firewood with 15 percent moisture (dry weight basis) would be expected to use an energy amount equal to 470,000 British thermal units (Btu) during burning to evaporate this moisture. An equivalent cord of paper birch that had a moisture content of 80 percent would be expected to use 2.5 million Btu (Ince 1979). The dry cord will produce more than a 12-percent increase in usable heat."


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## oldspark (Sep 7, 2013)

Machria said:


> I'd like to see data / study of what the actual affects of moister in wood is, in real life.  Got a feeling it doesn't make as much difference as everyone thinks.


Are you talking about moisture from when the tree was green, if you are it makes all the difference in the world, water does not burn very well.


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## Machria (Sep 7, 2013)

Actually, water burns really good.  It just may be our next fuel!  Was just on 60 minutes a few months age.


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## Lumber-Jack (Sep 7, 2013)

Here's another wrench to throw in the works. 
I cut mostly standing dead lodgepole pine trees for my firewood. The particular trees I select are generally less than 20% moisture content (MC) while still standing. If one of these trees was to fall over and lay on the ground for a year or more it will actually gain MC. The moment you lay the tree on the ground it is more exposed to the rain and snow and less exposed to the air.  Same goes if it is cut and split and stacked and left uncovered. During the winter or rainy months this stacked wood that is uncovered actually gains more moisture content from when it was in tree form. In fact I have seen uncovered stacks of this wood eventually go rotten sitting exposed like that after not that many years, while it's counterpart wood left in standing tree form would remain dry and free of rot. 

So my solution for this type of wood, which goes against the grain in this forum, is to only cut what wood I need for the year in the fall just before I need it, and keep it sheltered in my woodshed. 
If I was to start stockpiling this particular type of wood, I would have to ensure that it remains sheltered and unexposed to the rain and snow or it will begin to degrade and rot. Since I have limited room and limited woodshed space I find it easier to just cut what I need yearly rather than trying to stockpile years worth and have to worry about keeping it covered.


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## MrWhoopee (Sep 7, 2013)

Lumber-Jack said:


> Here's another wrench to throw in the works.
> I cut mostly standing dead lodgepole pine trees for my firewood. The particular trees I select are generally less than 20% moisture content (MC) while still standing. If one of these trees was to fall over and lay on the ground for a year or more it will actually gain MC. The moment you lay the tree on the ground it is more exposed to the rain and snow and less exposed to the air.  Same goes if it is cut and split and stacked and left uncovered. During the winter or rainy months this stacked wood that is uncovered actually gains more moisture content from when it was in tree form. In fact I have seen uncovered stacks of this wood eventually go rotten sitting exposed like that after not that many years, while it's counterpart wood left in standing tree form would remain dry and free of rot.


 
Thanks for pointing this out. I also cut a lot of standing dead lodgepole, it comprises about half of my 13 cord, 3-year supply. One of my stacks is about 10' square by 6' tall, mostly lodgepole. I was debating whether to top cover, since I won't be needing it for a year or two. Now I will definitely top cover. I think I might stack it a little higher in the center to improve drainage.


Interesting aside: The botanical name for lodgepole pine is Pinus contorta. Contorta as in contorted.
con·tort·ed (k n-tôr t d). adj. 1. Twisted or strained out of shape. 2. Botany Twisted, bent, or partially rolled upon itself; convolute

Seems an odd name for a tree that is so straight that its common name is lodgepole.


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## MrWhoopee (Sep 7, 2013)

Machria said:


> Actually, water burns really good.  It just may be our next fuel!  Was just on 60 minutes a few months age.


Of course, all you have to do is separate the hydrogen from the oxygen. Then it burns like gangbusters! Have you ever poured water on a magnesium fire?


----------



## Lumber-Jack (Sep 7, 2013)

MrWhoopee said:


> Thanks for pointing this out. I also cut a lot of standing dead lodgepole, it comprises about half of my 13 cord, 3-year supply. One of my stacks is about 10' square by 6' tall, mostly lodgepole. I was debating whether to top cover, since I won't be needing it for a year or two. Now I will definitely top cover. I think I might stack it a little higher in the center to improve drainage.
> 
> 
> Interesting aside: The botanical name for lodgepole pine is Pinus contorta. Contorta as in contorted.
> ...


Yes there seems to be a bit of confusion surrounding this species, it seems to stem from the different sub species classifications. The particular type that I cut, and that covers most of BC, is called Pinus contorta  *latifolia*, as shown in red on the map on this wiki page, which seems to grow similarly to the Pinus contorta _*murrayana *_sub species you have in Northern California. These both seem to grow tall and straight, where there is another sub species called Pinus contorta  *contorta* that actually does grow short and contorted as the name implies.  Interesting.

****Edit****   I know many local people here incorrectly refer to the lodgepole pine we have here as "Jackpine", which is actually a totally different type of pine that grows east of the Rocky mountains.


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## Seanm (Sep 7, 2013)

Lumber-Jack said:


> Yes there seems to be a bit of confusion surrounding this species, it seems to stem from the different sub species classifications. The particular type that I cut, and that covers most of BC, is called Pinus contorta  *latifolia*, as shown in red on the map on this wiki page, which seems to grow similarly to the Pinus contorta _*murrayana *_sub species you have in Northern California. These both seem to grow tall and straight, where there is another sub species called Pinus contorta  *contorta* that actually does grow short and contorted as the name implies.  Interesting.
> 
> ****Edit****   I know many local people here incorrectly refer to the lodgepole pine we have here as "Jackpine", which is actually a totally different type of pine that grows east of the Rocky mountains.


I hear people around here calling it jack pine and wondered where that came from. I have some covered Larch and Lodgepole behind my property that is small diameter (around 6") in 5 foot long log form that was stacked green and covered. Following this thread it got me thinking of bucking it up and comparing the mc to the same trees that I bucked up, split and stacked covered in November of last year.


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## MrWhoopee (Sep 7, 2013)

Seanm said:


> I hear people around here calling it jack pine and wondered where that came from. I have some covered Larch and Lodgepole behind my property that is small diameter (around 6") in 5 foot long log form that was stacked green and covered. Following this thread it got me thinking of bucking it up and comparing the mc to the same trees that I bucked up, split and stacked covered in November of last year.


 
We'll be interested to hear the results. Now you have to do it.


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## oldspark (Sep 7, 2013)

Machria said:


> Actually, water burns really good.  It just may be our next fuel!  Was just on 60 minutes a few months age.


Not in a wood burner.


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## oldspark (Sep 7, 2013)

Is it just me or are these threads getting weird?


----------



## HDRock (Sep 7, 2013)

oldspark said:


> Is it just me or are these threads getting weird?


----------



## MrWhoopee (Sep 8, 2013)

oldspark said:


> Is it just me or are these threads getting weird?


 Both


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## ansehnlich1 (Sep 8, 2013)

Water burns better if it's stacked in single rows and top covered.....just sayin'

Actually, the Western/Northern folk have brought some good stuff in here with all that talk about the weird woods they burn out thattaway 

Jackpine, Larch, Lodgepole........sheesh!


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## pyroholic (Sep 8, 2013)

oldspark said:


> Is it just me or are these threads getting weird?


We're all a little on edge with the anticipation of the quickly approaching burning season and all of the fun things we get to do to feed our various addictions and disorders.  This random summer scrounging, moving fire wood from here to there, covering and uncovering is barely keeping us sane.  It's time to get out there in the woods, gear up, and get at what we love.  A few more weeks and it'll be here.

I'm done.  Think I'll go sharpen up some chains... or something, just need another quick fix.


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## Seasoned Oak (Sep 8, 2013)

I left my oak rounds uncovered for a year. By the time i split them all the bark had fallen off,was wet underneath and full of bugs. I cover everything since then.


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## oldspark (Sep 8, 2013)

Seasoned Oak said:


> I left my oak rounds uncovered for a year. By the time i split them all the bark had fallen off,was wet underneath and full of bugs. I cover everything since then.


Stacked or thrown in a pile, I has elm rounds I stacked in a single row and no bugs and moisture unless it was right after a rain.


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## BillLion (Sep 9, 2013)

oldspark said:


> yea I read it and its a good read but I just dont agree with that and can find many sites saying it does not soak in much and I have not covered my wood for over 30 years and have never it had it pick up any moisture to speak of, next time it rains I can go split a piece and see what it reads, I do cover what I think I need for the winter in late fall but other wise it never gets covered.



Quick clarification: Do you cover for the winter just the top or all around the stack? Thanks!


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## oldspark (Sep 9, 2013)

BillLion said:


> Quick clarification: Do you cover for the winter just the top or all around the stack? Thanks!


 
After the wood is dry for burning I have to cover the whole stack as wth our winds the snow blows in from the sides and even then it will works its way under the cover, I need to build a small wood shed.


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## Seasoned Oak (Sep 9, 2013)

oldspark said:


> Stacked or thrown in a pile, I has elm rounds I stacked in a single row and no bugs and moisture unless it was right after a rain.


Probably the humidity is higher here than in Iowa. Speshly in summer.


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## Ashful (Sep 9, 2013)

BillLion said:


> Quick clarification: Do you cover for the winter just the top or all around the stack? Thanks!


oldspark replied that he covers the entire stack, and he may have good reason to do so.  However, when most here talk about covering their stacks, they're covering the tops only.

As you've seen, there's as many theories on "best practice," as their are people who burn wood.  A lot probably depends on your local weather, and how far ahead (or behind) you are on getting your wood split and stacked.


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## oldspark (Sep 9, 2013)

Joful said:


> oldspark replied that he covers the entire stack, and he may have good reason to do so.  However, when most here talk about covering their stacks, they're covering the tops only.
> 
> As you've seen, there's as many theories on "best practice," as their are people who burn wood.  A lot probably depends on your local weather, and how far ahead (or behind) you are on getting your wood split and stacked.


 
You have covering the stack while drying (seasoning) and you have covering the stack of your dried wood to protect it from surface moisture in the winter (which takes forever to dry in the low temps), I hope I made that clear in my post.


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## oldspark (Sep 9, 2013)

Seasoned Oak said:


> Probably the humidity is higher here than in Iowa. Speshly in summer.


 
We have high humidity here in the summer also but the winds blow most of the time, eveything I stack is in single rows so I can walk between the rows.


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## Ashful (Sep 9, 2013)

Seasoned Oak said:


> Probably the humidity is higher here than in Iowa. Speshly in summer.





oldspark said:


> We have high humidity here in the summer also but the winds blow most of the time, eveything I stack is in single rows so I can walk between the rows.



Philadelphia:





Sioux City:




We see days above 90% relative humidity for 7 months of the year, while northwest Iowa peaks above 90% for less than 3 months each year.


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## BillLion (Sep 9, 2013)

oldspark said:


> After the wood is dry for burning I have to cover the whole stack as wth our winds the snow blows in from the sides and even then it will works its way under the cover, I need to build a small wood shed.



Thanks, I appreciate that. I'm leaving mine uncovered but covering in the winter. Your clarification helped; I'll probably need to fully covered my seasoned wood in the winter as well.


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## Seanm (Sep 9, 2013)

MrWhoopee said:


> We'll be interested to hear the results. Now you have to do it.


 So I bucked it up and split a few rounds to compare the two yesterday. Splits from the middle of the green log pile had a mc of 29% compared to the stuff that was bucked, split and stacked last November which was 12%-20%. This doesn't surprise me but I was curious to see the difference. I didn't need to process it yet but now its done. I have a few rounds to put through the splitter and then the wood will be put away for next winter.


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## oldspark (Sep 9, 2013)

"We see days above 90% relative humidity for 7 months of the year, while northwest Iowa peaks above 90% for less than 3 months each year"
Are you trying to split hairs, Des Moines Iowa has an annual average RH of 78 in the morning and 56 in the afternoon, Harrisburg Penn. has an annual average RH of 77 in the morning and 54 in the afternoon.


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## Stegman (Sep 9, 2013)

This thread cracks me up. This has to be the most beaten to death subject matter on this whole site. I'm pretty ambivalent about the whole thing, but even I have thrown my two cents in on this subject in at least two or three other threads. Congrats to the OP for stirring the pot so successfully - there's current _four pages_ of replies!


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## BillLion (Sep 9, 2013)

Stegman said:


> This thread cracks me up. This has to be the most beaten to death subject matter on this whole site. I'm pretty ambivalent about the whole thing, but even I have thrown my two cents in on this subject in at least two or three other threads. Congrats to the OP for stirring the pot so successfully - there's current _four pages_ of replies!



You just made it 5!

So...do you cover or not?!?


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## oldspark (Sep 9, 2013)

Do you guys cover your dead horses?


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## Ashful (Sep 9, 2013)

oldspark said:


> "We see days above 90% relative humidity for 7 months of the year, while northwest Iowa peaks above 90% for less than 3 months each year"
> Are you trying to split hairs, Des Moines Iowa has an annual average RH of 78 in the morning and 56 in the afternoon, Harrisburg Penn. has an annual average RH of 77 in the morning and 54 in the afternoon.


Heh... you're missing a pretty large gradient in weather, if you compare Harrisburg to Philly.  Philly snow melts in hours. Harrisburg... weeks.


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## oldspark (Sep 9, 2013)

Joful said:


> Heh... you're missing a pretty large gradient in weather, if you compare Harrisburg to Philly.  Philly snow melts in hours. Harrisburg... weeks.


 
Cant this thread die, my point was they are fairly close, you said that and then changed your post.


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## oldspark (Sep 9, 2013)

Pick a city you want me to compare to, might as well keep the stupidity alive a while longer.


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## ScotO (Sep 9, 2013)

oldspark said:


> Pick a city you want me to compare to, might as well keep the stupidity alive a while longer.


 This thread will never die, Sparky.  Well, I should say this SUBJECT will never die.......


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## Machria (Sep 9, 2013)

Covering it does nothing.  This stack is 100% green Black Locust, cut down, bucked and stacked last winter (Jan/Feb...).  So its 8 months old, un-covered ON THE WATER, on LONG ISLAND (read: one of the most humid places in the US in the summer).  High humidity, salt water air..., snow on it last winter, rain all spring and summer.  In fact, it poored on it a day before this pic was snapped!   Yet, this stuff is ripe and perfect for the stove.


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## Ashful (Sep 9, 2013)

oldspark said:


> Cant this thread die, my point was they are fairly close, you said that and then changed your post.


Changed my post?  I didn't change anything.



Stegman said:


> This thread cracks me up. This has to be the most beaten to death subject matter on this whole site... there's current _four pages_ of replies!





BillLion said:


> You just made it 5!





oldspark said:


> Do you guys cover your dead horses?



5 pages is nothing.  Look at those Blaze King fanboys:  32 pages!

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/2012-2013-blaze-king-performance-thread-everything-bk.93182/


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## oldspark (Sep 9, 2013)

Joful, underneath the charts it used to say Penn. was more humid then Iowa but not by much, now it has something different.


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## oldspark (Sep 9, 2013)

I think we can get to 6 pages at this rate.


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## ansehnlich1 (Sep 9, 2013)

Machria said:


> Covering it does nothing.  This stack is 100% green Black Locust, cut down, bucked and stacked last winter (Jan/Feb...).  So its 8 months old, un-covered ON THE WATER, on LONG ISLAND



That Locust don't count, I dug up some locust post here on the farm that was buried prior to 1960 , bucked them post to length and they burned great.....no rot either, no punk, no rot.......

OH WAIT, that Locust was covered....with DIRT 

As for me and my wood....COVERED, ALL THE TIME, ALL DAY LONG!

And I'd appreciate folks not causing this thread to get shut down.....anybody with nothing to do some cold January night can read through the whole thing!


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## ansehnlich1 (Sep 9, 2013)

Dang, I was sure that last post was long enough to go to 6 pages......


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## Locust Post (Sep 9, 2013)

Lets see if I can help get to 6....I never covered anything except about 1 cord on the patio but I am farther ahead than ever so I just bought some metal roofing seconds that will go on my stacks.


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## Locust Post (Sep 9, 2013)

By the way never had any wood go bad just moved some that has been in the stack uncovered for about 3 years and it seemed fine......mix of cherry,ash,maple and locust


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## captjack (Sep 9, 2013)

when its dead - its going in the shed !


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## HDRock (Sep 9, 2013)

Going for6
I have a makeshift shed and 2 racks on the back deck and another rack close to the house , I fill with *dry *wood in the fall.

Last year, I had these top covered and had problems with wind blown, rain, freezing rain and snow,

so this year I will cover the top,sides  ,front and back ,and only leave the ends open  ,if the wood gets soaked and then it turns real

cold and stays cold it's hard to burn ice-cycles


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## Locust Post (Sep 9, 2013)

This is what is getting covered with metal roofing. This picture is from Spring...65' long,7' high and 3 rows deep. I may try to get a few more sheets for my other stacks or just rotate and keep the older stuff covered.


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## HDRock (Sep 9, 2013)

Locust Post said:


> This is what is getting covered with metal roofing. This picture is from Spring...65' long,7' high and 3 rows deep. I may try to get a few more sheets for my other stacks or just rotate and keep the older stuff covered.


 Nice stacks bro


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## Machria (Sep 9, 2013)

Locust Post said:


> This is what is getting covered with metal roofing. This picture is from Spring...65' long,7' high and 3 rows deep. I may try to get a few more sheets for my other stacks or just rotate and keep the older stuff covered.



DON'T DO IT!   You're going to ruin the wood!

6?


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## Ashful (Sep 9, 2013)

oldspark said:


> Joful, underneath the charts it used to say Penn. was more humid then Iowa but not by much, now it has something different.


Ah... you're right!  I had looked at the actual yearly peak, and saw that Philly and Sioux City were just a few percent apart, when I made that initial comment.  Then I went back and looked at the duration of the high humidity (7 months vs. 2.5 months), and changed my last sentence to reflect that.  Sorry for the confusion.

As to how beaten this dead horse is... what else should a bunch of pyroholics discuss in late summer?


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## fox9988 (Sep 9, 2013)

I can't stop coming back to read the latest posts........every year........its like a bad wreck in slow motion.........every year.........I need a new hobby.......next year.......I'm hopeless.........I don't top cover........I know I'd be better off......I'm too lazy.......maybe next year......


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## Applesister (Sep 9, 2013)

Location...location...location...
I top cover with metal roofing sheets because Im NOT three years ahead. (my 2¢)
And this thread has been a fun read.
Sometimes dead horses become legends.


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## Applesister (Sep 9, 2013)

Opinions are like dead horses?


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## Stegman (Sep 10, 2013)

BillLion said:


> You just made it 5!
> 
> So...do you cover or not?!?



Long story short, I used to be in the "don't cover" camp and still think leaving the wood uncovered is fine. But now, after a year of drying, I throw a rubber roofing cover over my stacks under the "can't hurt" principle. From there, they go into the woodshed.


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## Lumber-Jack (Sep 10, 2013)

You don't "need" to cover your wood, just like you don't "need" a roof on your house. It just works better that way, that's all.


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## Trooper (Sep 10, 2013)

Locust Post said:


> This picture is from Spring...65' long,7' high and 3 rows deep.


Woody alert!     By my calculation (assuming 16" splits) that's over 14 cords!


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## Machria (Sep 10, 2013)

Trooper said:


> Woody alert!     By my calculation (assuming 16" splits) that's over 14 cords!



14 RUINED cords, because they are covered!


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## USMC80 (Sep 10, 2013)

I covered all the stacks for this winter last night.  Before with the old furnace I only covered what was closer to the house.  That pile seemed to always burn better so figured I would try covering all this time around


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## oldspark (Sep 10, 2013)

Let me sum this up
Covered dry wood in winter is all good.
Cover wood rest of the year is your option.
Now die thread die!


----------



## BrotherBart (Sep 10, 2013)

oldspark said:


> Let me sum this up
> Covered dry wood in winter is all good.
> Cover wood rest of the year is your option.
> Now die thread die!



You are always either complaining because a thread got closed or because a thread isn't closed.


----------



## BillLion (Sep 10, 2013)

oldspark said:


> Let me sum this up
> Covered dry wood in winter is all good.
> Cover wood rest of the year is your option.
> Now die thread die!



Why stop now? I see a 7th page by tomorrow!


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## Locust Post (Sep 10, 2013)

Trooper said:


> Woody alert!     By my calculation (assuming 16" splits) that's over 14 cords!


 

closer to 18" just about 15 cords.....have another pile with about 4 cords and 5 to 6 cord in rounds to split. I think I'll be ok for winter. But I am really getting the itch to cut some more.


----------



## Ashful (Sep 10, 2013)

oldspark said:


> Now die thread die!





BrotherBart said:


> You are always either complaining because a thread got closed or because a thread isn't closed.


AND... oldspark is usually the largest contributor to these "cover/don't cover" threads!  He has posted 23 times on this one alone.  Maybe he's just trying to do the rest of us a favor.


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## Trooper (Sep 11, 2013)

Machria said:


> Covering it does nothing.  This stack is 100% green Black Locust...
> 
> View attachment 111000


Nice wood racks, Machria.  Can you share how they were built and rough dimensions?


----------



## ansehnlich1 (Sep 11, 2013)

Ain't a need for anybody to get their dander up, or become testy. One of the things I've learned from this thread is that different locations/climates often result in different ideas and methods.....that's one reason the topic is contentious at times. 

Secondly, species of wood matters. I know locust is used for fence posts, reason that is would be that it is very resistant to rot.....so is eastern red cedar. Now, you stack some boxelder out there and see what happens if it ain't covered.

And here's one more.....there's wind around here, some times a thunderstorm will blast through, but it's rare that my stack cover ever blows off.....NOW, in hurricane prone areas, or otherwise high wind areas, having a bunch of tin on top a wood stack when goodnight Irene is blowing through town might not be a good idea 

.....we at 7 pages yet?


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## oldspark (Sep 11, 2013)

Joful said:


> AND... oldspark is usually the largest contributor to these "cover/don't cover" threads!  He has posted 23 times on this one alone.  Maybe he's just trying to do the rest of us a favor.


 
Please dont remind me.


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## ScotO (Sep 11, 2013)

Lumber-Jack said:


> You don't "need" to cover your wood, just like you don't "need" a roof on your house. It just works better that way, that's all.


 EXACTLY!!


----------



## oldspark (Sep 11, 2013)

I dont know but I really think I need a roof on my house.


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## ScotO (Sep 11, 2013)

oldspark said:


> I dont know but I really think I need a roof on my house.


Glass roof, maybe?


----------



## NortheastAl (Sep 11, 2013)

I went out and got tarps form the Christmas Tree Store that are 6'x8' for $1.99 each. They are thin blue ones, but who cares at that price. They almost come to 8', and I put them on 2 stacks that are for next year. They are right under big Norway Maples, and I won't want all the leaves in there. Making cord stacks of 4'x4'x8' is easier for me to fit where I put them. One more cord stack gets sun all day is going to get covered shortly. The other two cords are in single row stacks so they will remain uncovered for now, even though they are part of this winter's supply. 

Did we hit 7 pages yet?


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## Machria (Sep 11, 2013)

Trooper said:


> Nice wood racks, Machria.  Can you share how they were built and rough dimensions?




You need qty 6 treated 2x4x8 (or 10') studs for each rack.  
1.  Bury four 2x4x10' studs into the ground about 2' deep.  Just dig a whole straight down with a post digger, drop the 2x4 in, and fill in the around it.  Tamp it down around it very good (I used another 2x4 on end to smash down the dirt into the hole).  I spaced each pair bout 14" apart on center.  And then 9 1/2' across from one another (or 7 1/2' across from one another if you want them 8' long instead of 10' long).   So the 10' x 2x4 base cross members can be bolted to each side.

2.  Bolt using 4" galvanized lag bolts, the cross members an inch or two off the ground. Thru bolt each cross member with 2 bolts.   My cross members are 8' long, the racks are 8' tall, and 13" wide ID and 16" wide OD which is perfect to hold my splits which are from 16" to 20" long.

3.  Place the next rack adjeacent to this rack and space over by about 1 1/2'.  This will leave enough space for the longer splits to stick out the sites, and leave about 1' of open air between them for seasoning.  I placed two racks side by side like this, and then spaced the next set of racks 3' away.  This gives me access to at least one side of each rack, so it can be filled/stacked and wood removed when needed.

4.  Lastly, screw on a top cross member to each set of racks for stability.  I did not do this at first, and the top of the racks were warping a bit/leaning in one direction or the other.  So I added this support beam, which holds them all straight because the 4 posts all pull against each other via this cross member.  Now they are staying nice and straight.

So my racks end up being about 8' tall, 8' long and ~18" wide which calculates to 0.75 cords per rack, and takes up very little space, yet dries the wood very nicely since they get air/wind/sun on all sides (bottom, top, and both sides).  You could make them 10' long instead, and make it a full cord, but I was limited on space.  The treated wood will last a loooooong time, so the cost will be spread over time since I can re-use them, and I don't have to rebuild it each year....   The wood is off the ground, and has great ventilation all around and will season quickly.  This rack is seasoning at least twice as fast as my other normally ground stacked racks in double rows.  And it also looks very nice and neat.


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## Trooper (Sep 11, 2013)

Machria said:


> You need qty 6 treated 2x4x8 (or 10') studs for each rack...And it also looks very nice and neat.



Thanks so much, Machria, for taking the time to post.  I'll need a few of these in order to advance from wood-a-holic to psycho 

Question:  Do the 2x4x10 uprights get impacted by the earth to wood contact?  The ground is quite hard where I am, making digging difficult.  Am wondering if I could set the uprights on a concrete cap rather than post digging...


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## Machria (Sep 11, 2013)

Trooper said:


> Question:  Do the 2x4x10 uprights get impacted by the earth to wood contact?  The ground is quite hard where I am, making digging difficult.  Am wondering if I could set the uprights on a concrete cap rather than post digging...



Not sure what you meant by "impacted"?   I use the ground to hold them up, since they are pressure treated, they will take many many moons to rot if that is what you mean.  A regular 2x4 would rot out pretty quickly.    You could certainly sit them on a contrete slab or patio blocks or somthing instead.   I dug mine in because the ground where they are is very unevenm, and sloping as well.  The backside is 1 1/2' lower than the front side.  So my bases althought hard to see are on a bit of an angle downward to the back.  Teh back is also a foot off the ground while the front is sitting on the ground.

If your on a flat area, you could just use 2x4x8'ers and not dig them into the ground, just bolt it all together, the weight of the wood will hold it in place.


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## Trooper (Sep 11, 2013)

Thanks Machria, I was wondering about termites and rot with the earth to wood contact.  I think I will just spend the extra buck apiece for the concrete slabs for the piece of mind.

Now....get that wood covered!


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## Ashful (Sep 11, 2013)

The 2x4's Machria is buying are almost certainly 0.25 ACQ, which are NOT ground contact rated, but it's all you'll find at home centers or most lumber yards.  It will last a few years in ground contact, but will not be a long-term solution for most people away from the coast.  Machria lives in an area with very sandy soil, though, so he may be luckier than the rest of us in that regard.  ACQ 0.25 may actually hold up okay in a well drained sandy soil.  Also, many of the organisms that rot wood will not live in or near salt water, which is working in his favor.

I use ACQ 0.25 to build some of my wood racks (it's cheap and available), just accepting that the pieces in contact with my wetter and less sandy soil will rot in a few years, which they do.  Higher ACQ concentrations are available, but for something like this, not worth the expense.  Most home centers and lumber yards carry ACQ 0.25 for all 2" dimensional lumber, and ACQ 0.40 for all 4" and larger.


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## Locust Post (Sep 11, 2013)

So now that were 6 pages in and the horse is bloody as all get out, I was just wondering about what the percentage is amongst members. Cover or not.


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## Ashful (Sep 11, 2013)

Locust Post said:


> ...I was just wondering about what the percentage is amongst members. Cover or not.


Well, now you have to start a new thread, with a poll.


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## Locust Post (Sep 11, 2013)

Joful said:


> Well, now you have to start a new thread, with a poll.


 

Just ain't gonna do it......that would be a horse of another color


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## Machria (Sep 12, 2013)

Locust Post said:


> So now that were 6 pages in and the horse is bloody as all get out, I was just wondering about what the percentage is amongst members. Cover or not.



Cover what?


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## Stegman (Sep 12, 2013)

Just trying to push it to seven pages so we can all wander off to other threads....


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## Stegman (Sep 12, 2013)

Damn, didn't work. Still at 6 pages.


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## BillLion (Sep 12, 2013)

Stegman said:


> Damn, didn't work. Still at 6 pages.



Congrats, you did it!


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## NortheastAl (Sep 12, 2013)

Stegman said:


> Damn, didn't work. Still at 6 pages.


You win the deciding vote! Cover, or not cover?


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## Machria (Sep 12, 2013)

Do not cover your split wood, you will ruin it!


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## Locust Post (Sep 12, 2013)

Machria said:


> Do not cover your split wood, you will ruin it!


 

But if you split your covered wood you will be fine.


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## oldspark (Sep 12, 2013)

Make sure you cover your covered wood.


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