# Fire Chief FC1000 / Shelter SF1000 - blows biometric damper door off! Do not install a BD!



## Mrpelletburner (Mar 14, 2018)

Edit: Since the posted video, I have changed my stove setup and flue piping. Still experiencing "puffs", however nowhere as extreme.


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## warno (Mar 14, 2018)

wow. Thats pretty violent! Is there any known fix to the problem?


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## Mrpelletburner (Mar 14, 2018)

warno said:


> wow. Thats pretty violent! Is there any known fix to the problem?



Since posted, I believe HY-C has changed the draft blower, which I understand allows more air.


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## BoiledOver (Mar 14, 2018)

Are your stove pipe joints all screwed and taped? Is what you have experienced a known issue with this unit? The stove sitting in the background does not have a blower, is that correct? Operating those two wood fired appliances will take different approaches. Have you consulted with other owners of this model to determine an efficient procedure?

I can get the Eko boiler to have huffing and puffing with backfire explosions too, but I choose not to.

This quoted from Woodlanddirect.com: "The *Fire Chief FC1000 Indoor Wood Burning Furnace* is proudly EPA certified, assuring that you are getting the safest product."

I find it hard to believe the that EPA certification was awarded on a unit that has the issue that you have shown on your video. Maybe there will be a learning curve for you to achieve satisfactory results. Best of luck in satisfying your heating needs.


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## maple1 (Mar 14, 2018)

BoiledOver said:


> Are your stove pipe joints all screwed and taped? Is what you have experienced a known issue with this unit? The stove sitting in the background does not have a blower, is that correct? Operating those two wood fired appliances will take different approaches. Have you consulted with other owners of this model to determine an efficient procedure?
> 
> I can get the Eko boiler to have huffing and puffing with backfire explosions too, but I choose not to.
> 
> ...



Did you read his other thread? Everything is recorded in there. Quite a tale. Aside from the intermittent explosions, it burns dirty - that's on video also. Likely a correlation there. Don't think I could confidently say all of them are problems, given the small sample size, but his sure is.


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## brenndatomu (Mar 14, 2018)

BoiledOver said:


> Are your stove pipe joints all screwed and taped? Is what you have experienced a known issue with this unit? The stove sitting in the background does not have a blower, is that correct? Operating those two wood fired appliances will take different approaches. Have you consulted with other owners of this model to determine an efficient procedure?
> 
> I can get the Eko boiler to have huffing and puffing with backfire explosions too, but I choose not to.
> 
> ...


Read the saga here...this lame horse just needs to be taken out back and shot...
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/fire-chief-or-shelter-epa-stoves-feedback.167418/


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## BoiledOver (Mar 14, 2018)

Yeah that other thread is a doozie, sounds like a rough row to hoe. What is happening different at @Mrpelletburner home from what was done to receive EPA certification? The manufacturer does have a responsibility to state proper operating procedures. Those which were used during the testing for EPA would be helpful.

It has a higher cost but the Kuuma Vapor-Fire 100 is top of the line and would probably outlive any of the economy models. After all Mrpelletburner has been through, the wife might be on board to green light the Kuuma purchase.


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## laynes69 (Mar 14, 2018)

That's been my point, there's no way the company tested the unit the way the OP was instructed to burn it. It sounded like initially the flap cover on the forced draft was loose and I'm sure that's how it tested clean. What the company found out is the unit cannot be operated cleanly (burning hot) without cracking so they riveted the flap closed and told consumers if you move this you void warranty. One would have to assume it's illegal to do so, since I'm sure that's not how it was tested. The sad part, a simple servo and a plate that would open and close would've produced the same results using natural draft. Per EPA a unit should burn cleanly when the air is shut down, however you close the flap on the blower and you smother the fire completely. What a poor design.


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## Mrpelletburner (Mar 14, 2018)

BoiledOver said:


> Are your stove pipe joints all screwed and taped?



Just screwed together. Do you tape the black pipe? If so, what kid would you suggest?



BoiledOver said:


> Is what you have experienced a known issue with this unit? Have you consulted with other owners of this model to determine an efficient procedure?



According to HY-C no, not an on going issue.



BoiledOver said:


> The stove sitting in the background does not have a blower, is that correct?



The stove in the background is what I am replacing. It is an old Hunstman stove that had a homemade sheet metal enclosure with a blower. It is a nice stove that throws out a ton of heat, just uses a lot of wood.



BoiledOver said:


> Have you consulted with other owners of this model to determine an efficient procedure?



I am 1 of 3 folks on this forum that owns one of these stoves. We have exchanges thoughts/suggestions. I believe @Medic21 has had a similar issue. @Medic21 you out there?


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## maple1 (Mar 15, 2018)

Mrpelletburner said:


> Just screwed together. Do you tape the black pipe? If so, what kid would you suggest?



I don't think there is any need to tape or seal seams. That should only be needed if you are marginal on draft. And your Dwyer was showing proper draft. I did no sealing of seams on mine.


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## BoiledOver (Mar 15, 2018)

After reading thoroughly through the other thread, I concur with the title of this thread. The owners of these units here at the hearth have been jumping through hoops since day one to accomplish the ease and efficiency as advertised HERE.

@Mrpelletburner @Medic21 @Turd Ferguson  deserve a round of applause for their efforts.


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## Turd Ferguson (Mar 15, 2018)

BoiledOver said:


> After reading thoroughly through the other thread, I concur with the title of this thread. The owners of these units here at the hearth have been jumping through hoops since day one to accomplish the ease and efficiency as advertised HERE.
> 
> @Mrpelletburner @Medic21 @Turd Ferguson  deserve a round of applause for their efforts.


I've been a little less voiceful in my frustrations, but I haven't seen anywhere near the backdraft/explosion problems that @Mrpelletburner has seen. Mine is more of a low draft issue, coupled with getting used to an EPA stove without any secondaries or primaries that are adjustable...Still though, a frustrating start to the ownership of this furnace.


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## Medic21 (Mar 15, 2018)

Sorry been busy in the shop.  Yes I have experienced all these issues.  I have come close to a good medium but, it is not as advertised.  My plan right now is to make it work until I throw it in the shop and switch to a outdoor boiler.  Unless they come up with some kind of recall or fix for the unit to burn while not receiving a heat call.  I've got my dad, electrical engineer, working on making the inducer two speed or finding one that is to allow a small amount of air between heat calls.


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## brenndatomu (Mar 15, 2018)

Medic21 said:


> I've got my dad, electrical engineer, working on making the inducer two speed or finding one that is to allow a small amount of air between heat calls


I'd ditch that blower completely! Go with natural draft and just have a motorized door...run it with a stepper motor so it can be incrementally opened/closed...like they do on the Kuumas. I would think it would be really easy for someone familiar with electronics and programming to do.
Also, if you are interested, look at the big Tundra thread (link in my sig line) to see how many of us have used inexpensive controls to automate the Tundras...I have less than $20 in my temp controller and thermocouple...and it works sweeeeeet BTW.
Could be used on most wood furnaces IMO...even this one.


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## lampmfg (Mar 15, 2018)

It's a shame to see something like this.  I'm wondering how many more of these issues will arise with companies making new models to gain EPA certification.  It reminds me of another furnace that basically used the public for R & D a couple of years back.  

I'm not saying that no one has issues with their Kuuma right away, but they don't if it's hooked up correctly, which we always try and help every single person achieve.  The Kuuma Vapor-Fire is designed and time-tested to work while burning in the real world.


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## brenndatomu (Mar 15, 2018)

lampmfg said:


> It reminds me of another furnace that basically used the public for R & D a couple of years back.


At least those were based on a proven firebox design, and actually worked...they just skimped on materials


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## wannabewarm (Dec 2, 2018)

Mrpelletburner said:


> Just screwed together. Do you tape the black pipe? If so, what kid would you suggest?
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Count us as 4...


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## PassionForFire&Water (Dec 3, 2018)

Windhager has a barometric damper with spring assisted explosion relief; see pictures
These are used in Europe on almost all gasification wood boilers


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## The Dude-1 (Dec 6, 2018)

I also have the SF1000 furnace.  Purchased it new from Menards and installed it this year.  This is my first furnace but I have had stoves in the past.  My opinion is this thing is dangerous and should not be sold.  It burns very dirty (lots of creosote) and I have had a similar puff experience or two where the damper blew apart.  It is sad because on the few occasions where we had it running good the heat was amazing.  My SF1000 will be coming out of the basement in about a week and I plan to not use it until then.  I have tried everything to get puff the magic furnace to work properly.  The real question is what to do with the thing now?


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## brenndatomu (Dec 6, 2018)

The Dude-1 said:


> My opinion is this thing is dangerous and should not be sold.


My personal opinion is, as I've stated before here in another thread, all y'all that bought these FC and SF1000 furnaces need to get together and get a good lawyer...


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## Mrpelletburner (Dec 7, 2018)

The Dude-1 said:


> I also have the SF1000 furnace.  Purchased it new from Menards and installed it this year.  This is my first furnace but I have had stoves in the past.  My opinion is this thing is dangerous and should not be sold.  It burns very dirty (lots of creosote) and I have had a similar puff experience or two where the damper blew apart.  It is sad because on the few occasions where we had it running good the heat was amazing.  My SF1000 will be coming out of the basement in about a week and I plan to not use it until then.  I have tried everything to get puff the magic furnace to work properly.  The real question is what to do with the thing now?




What are you replacing it with?

Mine is still sitting across the basement collecting dust. Was going to use it as a heat source for my garage, perhaps install it in an outdoor shed connected to the garage.


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## Bad LP (Dec 7, 2018)

I was getting the same (not anywhere as extreme) with my Tarm when I first installed it. Was very uneasy about it not to mention the fly ash. As a temporary measure I installed a cap and put the damper on the shelf where it remains today. 

Problem solved. No more mini explosions. My pipe is screwed in 3 places at every joint and red hi temp silicon over the seams. I think it helps a great deal with dust as I was seeing it near every joint. The only three joints not sealed are the stove to pipe, pipe to chimney adapter and the cap in place of the damper. I use this to take a peek in the pipe a few times.


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## Medic21 (Dec 9, 2018)

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/fire-chief-fc1000-shelter-sf1000-update.172034/#post-2310224


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## JRB (Dec 28, 2018)

I'm one that purchased one of these too and am having issues.  No puff back issues but not burning hot enough and causing too much creosote buildup!


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## Mrpelletburner (Dec 28, 2018)

JRB said:


> I'm one that purchased one of these too and am having issues.  No puff back issues but not burning hot enough and causing too much creosote buildup!


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## brenndatomu (Dec 28, 2018)

JRB said:


> I'm one that purchased one of these too and am having issues.  No puff back issues but not burning hot enough and causing too much creosote buildup!


Buy it from a retailer that would still take it back?


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## Tparks (Jan 26, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> Edit: Since the posted video, I have changed my stove setup and flue piping. Still experiencing "puffs", however nowhere as extreme as the posted video.
> 
> Please also check out the following thread (300+ posts) and NEVER install a biometric damper for this stove.
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/fire-chief-or-shelter-epa-stoves-feedback.167418/
> ...


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## Mrpelletburner (Feb 24, 2019)

The Dude-1 said:


> I also have the SF1000 furnace.  Purchased it new from Menards and installed it this year.  This is my first furnace but I have had stoves in the past.  My opinion is this thing is dangerous and should not be sold.  It burns very dirty (lots of creosote) and I have had a similar puff experience or two where the damper blew apart.  It is sad because on the few occasions where we had it running good the heat was amazing.  My SF1000 will be coming out of the basement in about a week and I plan to not use it until then.  I have tried everything to get puff the magic furnace to work properly.  The real question is what to do with the thing now?



Did you end up pulling out the unit? If so, did you happen to purchase another unit?


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## Tparks (Feb 24, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> Did you end up pulling out the unit? If so, did you happen to purchase another unit?


I had to drill out the rivet on the fan then I had to build a cover for the cold air return because the furnace was getting too much cold air and that fixed the problems


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## Mrpelletburner (Feb 24, 2019)

Tparks said:


> I had to drill out the rivet on the fan then I had to build a cover for the cold air return because the furnace was getting too much cold air and that fixed the problems



Any chance you can post a photo? Trying to envision the setup.


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## Tparks (Feb 24, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> Any chance you can post a photo? Trying to envision the setup.


Okay


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## Mrpelletburner (Feb 24, 2019)

Where are you pulling the cold air return from? HY-C kept recommending to pull the cold air return from upstairs, however In my case it was not possible. The closest I could get is to pull the warm air from the ceiling.

Looks like you opened the draft below the with of the rivet?

Glad to hear things are working out better for you.


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## Tparks (Feb 24, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> Where are you pulling the cold air return from? HY-C kept recommending to pull the cold air return from upstairs, however In my case it was not possible. The closest I could get is to pull the warm air from the ceiling.
> 
> Looks like you opened the draft below the with of the rivet?
> 
> Glad to hear things are working out better for you.


My cold air is coming from my propane furnace duct


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## Tparks (Feb 24, 2019)

Tparks said:


> My cold air is coming from my propane furnace duct


You need to open the draft about half way when you start a fire the unit doesn't get enough air so that's why you get the explosion and smoke


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## Mrpelletburner (Feb 24, 2019)

Tparks said:


> You need to open the draft about half way when you start a fire the unit doesn't get enough air so that's why you get the explosion and smoke



So your not using the draft blower when you start the unit?


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## Tparks (Feb 24, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> So your not using the draft blower when you start the unit?


Yes turn the fan on and open the cover halfway the older model didn't have a rivet on it fc told me they put the rivet in because people would let the cover wide open and melting the cast iron once you have a fire going you should be able to put the cover back to the factory position


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## King of the North (Dec 1, 2019)

Unfortunately, I bought a SF1000 before joining this site.  Reviews on Menards were good so I thought it would work great.  I have a 1300 sf house and this 2500 sf furnace is struggling to keep up.  It seems to short cycle only running the circulation blower for 1-3 minutes then off for 2-5 minutes before the fan switch turns the circulation blower on again and the draft blower almost never shuts off.  Heavy creosote build-up after only a month of use.  I have a 45-degree elbow off the back to a 4 foot stretch of stainless with a cast-iron damper just before another 45 elbow going out the wall 22" to the flexline stainless 15-foot chimney liner all 6" in diameter all held together with 3 screws at each connection with no tape of sealant currently.  So ruffly 23 ft of venting total.  Checking draft tomorrow but if anyone has figured out how to get one of these to work correctly please let me know as this is my primary heat source this winter in northern MN and no money left for another this season.


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## JRHAWK9 (Dec 2, 2019)

King of the North said:


> Unfortunately, I bought a SF1000 before joining this site.  Reviews on Menards were good so I thought it would work great.  I have a 1300 sf house and this 2500 sf furnace is struggling to keep up.  It seems to short cycle only running the circulation blower for 1-3 minutes then off for 2-5 minutes before the fan switch turns the circulation blower on again and the draft blower almost never shuts off.  Heavy creosote build-up after only a month of use.  I have a 45-degree elbow off the back to a 4 foot stretch of stainless with a cast-iron damper just before another 45 elbow going out the wall 22" to the flexline stainless 15-foot chimney liner all 6" in diameter all held together with 3 screws at each connection with no tape of sealant currently.  So ruffly 23 ft of venting total.  Checking draft tomorrow but if anyone has figured out how to get one of these to work correctly please let me know as this is my primary heat source this winter in northern MN and no money left for another this season.


Welcome to the forum!

Here's a more current thread related to someone else running this furnace.





						New guy here looking for some direction
					

Thanks for having me here, I find the pool of knowledge and experience a great asset. Before I get too involved I could use a bit of direction. I have been heating the house for the past few years, casually mind you, with a 45 year old Little John stove, full manual of course, and I had become...




					www.hearth.com


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## Mrpelletburner (Dec 2, 2019)

King of the North said:


> Unfortunately, I bought a SF1000 before joining this site. Reviews on Menards were good so I thought it would work great. I have a 1300 sf house and this 2500 sf furnace is struggling to keep up. It seems to short cycle only running the circulation blower for 1-3 minutes then off for 2-5 minutes before the fan switch turns the circulation blower on again and the draft blower almost never shuts off. Heavy creosote build-up after only a month of use. I have a 45-degree elbow off the back to a 4 foot stretch of stainless with a cast-iron damper just before another 45 elbow going out the wall 22" to the flexline stainless 15-foot chimney liner all 6" in diameter all held together with 3 screws at each connection with no tape of sealant currently. So ruffly 23 ft of venting total. Checking draft tomorrow but if anyone has figured out how to get one of these to work correctly please let me know as this is my primary heat source this winter in northern MN and no money left for another this season.



Tell us what you are burning for wood?

Can you measure the moisture content of your wood? Have you tried to load ½ the fire box with ¼ cut 2x4’s and ¼ with smaller splits?

Any backpuffing?

I you don’t already, I encourage you to install an internal temp prob to measure the flue temperatures a min of 18-20” from the rear 6” exhaust port. This unit should have a min of 600f for a flue temp.

Also encourage you to measure your draft, only to verify the draft. This unit needs a good draft.

Dwyer Series Mark II 25 Molded Plastic Manometer, Inclined-Vertical Scale, 0 to 3 inH2O Measuring Range, Red Gauge Fluid, 0.826 sp. gr. Amazon product

I also had a major creosote issues and now wonder if my wood or I was to green at the time as I no longer have issues, but on my 3rd stove.


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## King of the North (Dec 2, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> Tell us what you are burning for wood?
> 
> Can you measure the moisture content of your wood? Have you tried to load ½ the fire box with ¼ cut 2x4’s and ¼ with smaller splits?
> 
> ...




I am burning mostly oak mixed with a bit of other hardwoods.  Dried 4 years with a moister content of 22% or less.  I just switched the venting from the set-up on the ground you see with the barometric damper to the 45 angle stainless pictured.  Tested the water column at -.04 today.  Temp on my flue was 650f.  I have installed another honeywell limit switch with an 8-inch coil, set it at 90-170 and have gotten double the circulation blower cycle (5-7 minutes) than I was getting from the honeywell with a 5-inch coil set at 100-160 that came with the furnace.  I am going to burn this for a week and check the creosote build-up in the new stovepipe and see if I still have an issue or not.

I don't have much of a back puffing issue, just a little on initial firing.


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## brenndatomu (Dec 2, 2019)

King of the North said:


> to the 45 angle stainless pictured.


That cant be stainless...stainless turns purple when overheated...galvanized steel turns white like that there at the 1st elbow when its overheated...it also off gasses some poisonous fumes when this happens. Galvanized shouldn't be used for a wood stove flue pipe at all, especially one like this unit that blows a ton of heat up the stack!


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## maple1 (Dec 2, 2019)

Hmm ya, that whole things looks like galvanized heat duct.


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## Mrpelletburner (Dec 2, 2019)

Is that a white ring on the back of the stove? Look at the black portion around when the black stove pipe connects. My stove, as hot as it got, never discolored in that area.


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## brenndatomu (Dec 2, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> Is that a white ring on the back of the stove? Look at the black portion around when the black stove pipe connects. My stove, as hot as it got, never discolored in that area.


When shopping for used stoves, look for the black high temp that looks ashy and white...classic sign of overfired...


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## King of the North (Dec 2, 2019)

Glad I shared the pictures!  Great catch on the galvanized!  Picked those pieces up at L&M supply labeled stove pipe and because they were shinny I assumed stainless.  Have new pieces on order and letting the fire go out until they come in.

Parts will be in early next week.  Should I keep the cast iron damper in or just go without?


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## Mrpelletburner (Dec 2, 2019)

Do you have a Lowe’s or HomeDepot or ACE hardware around?


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## King of the North (Dec 2, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> Do you have a Lowe’s or HomeDepot or ACE hardware around?


I have a home depot and ace.  The home depot did not have stainless, not sure about ace (stores up here have a very limited to 0 supply on a lot of things) but the parts are on order and temps will not be below 0 for the rest of the week (so they say).  The discoloration must have come from the elbow as it was not there before that.  The 1st burn with the setup was yesterday and overnight.  Almost immediately the elbow changed color and the white ring showed up at the same time.


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## King of the North (Dec 2, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> but on my 3rd stove


What are you using now?  What was your circulation blower average run time on the fire chief?


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## Mrpelletburner (Dec 2, 2019)

King of the North said:


> What are you using now? What was your circulation blower average run time on the fire chief?



I think the distribution blower would run for at least two hours if not longer. The problem was when the stove went to idle mode. This was the first encounter with a wood furnace. All comes down to fuel... you need dry wood.

Now have the HeatMax II - 1 month in, jury is still out


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## King of the North (Dec 2, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> distribution blower would run for at least two hours if not longer


New to the terminology but you are referring to the blower on the back of the unit correct (not the front little guy)?  If so I can't get mine to run for more than 7 minutes with a very hot fire.  It seems to push to much air and cool off very quickly.


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## brenndatomu (Dec 2, 2019)

King of the North said:


> I can't get mine to run for more than 7 minutes with a very hot fire. It seems to push to much air and cool off very quickly


Try putting a higher MERV # filter in...


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## Mrpelletburner (Dec 2, 2019)

Yes the rear blower is referred to as the “distribution blower” the front blower is the “draft blower”.

Sounds as if you are not getting the stove hot enough. This unit wants to be run really hard aka hot. I could get the front of my stove to glow red.


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## brenndatomu (Dec 2, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> This unit wants to be run really hard aka hot. I could get the front of my stove to glow red.


You shouldn't have to push any stove/furnace that hard. Ever.
Basically brand new and overfired already...and STILL can't keep the fan running...no, just no!
I am literally shocked that nobody has turned these guys in to the CPSC (Consumer Products Safety Commission)
At least Menards has wised up and dropped them.


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## Gbawol42 (Dec 8, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> I think the distribution blower would run for at least two hours if not longer. The problem was when the stove went to idle mode. This was the first encounter with a wood furnace. All comes down to fuel... you need dry wood.
> 
> Now have the HeatMax II - 1 month in, jury is still out



So far I'm happy with the heatmax, however without this site and knowing about the "mods" to get it to run more optimally I don't believe the furnace would run correctly.  Maybe if you had perfectly dry wood you would be ok.  But I feel if you put one piece of not so dry wood in the furnace it just kills the secondary burn process and smolders the fire.  The "mods" fix this and get it to heat up again and dry that wood out.


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## brenndatomu (Dec 8, 2019)

Mrpelletburner said:


> Now have the HeatMax II - 1 month in, jury is still out


Jury may be out still...but if I recall correctly, 1 month in on the new FC1000, things were already going poorly...sounds to me like the HM II is a big step in the right direction...


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## KC Matt (Jan 17, 2020)

Another timely bump for the guy considering one of these POS furnaces


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