# Reducing draft for my Quadra fire Isle Royale



## chadihman (Nov 11, 2011)

I have a new Quadra fire Isle Royale wood stove that burns too hot and burns through hardwood too fast. I get only about five hour burn time and 750 + deg fires when the stove is set to lowest burn. I checked all the seals and installed a pipe damper but this does not help. My dealer told me I'm dealing with a strong draft from my 20 ft stainless lined chimney. I was wandering what would be the best way to cut down my strong draft. Has anyone taken a Isle Royale apart? I would like to know how hard it is to get to the air control so that I could possibly modify it.


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## DexterDay (Nov 11, 2011)

Do you have a stove top thermometer on the stove?

What temperature are you reloading at?

Are you reloading on a Full bed of hot coals?


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## chadihman (Nov 11, 2011)

Yes I have a thermometer on top of the top load door and also check with a infrared thermometer. I normally reload on hot coals when the temp goes down to 200 deg. The newly loaded wood lights and then I shut the air down again. The stove slowly climbs to 750+ deg and into a crazy amount of rolling blue flames and the wood is consumed quickly.


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## maxed_out (Nov 11, 2011)

Chadihman, welcome to the forums.  Theres some nice info in here on your heater

......Your draft situation can happen but it seems odd....  Can you also give us your routine to start it up and reload? Let us know what you set your air controls at.   I've learned to really let the coals go down before I reload. My IR has an outside air kit that has a damper.  However I've never had to adjust it- ever. The main air control on this one can almost put the stove out if its all the way to the right.


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## northwinds (Nov 11, 2011)

The OP originally brought up his overdraft issue in another thread involving the Isle Royale and low operating 
temps.  We encouraged him to start his own thread on the high operating temps.

It sounds like he's doing all the right things and still has crazy draft.  This is a new installation.
He's got the primary air totally off at 400, and it still rises to 750.  I don't even touch my primary
until it hits 550, and it usually levels off at 600-650 by the time I reach 80-90% closed.

I know you mentioned that your wood is very dry.  Are your splits also small/thin?  That tends to encourage hotter fires.
Bigger splits slow things down.  Also tightly packing the wood and not leaving a lot of air spaces can also slow
things down.  You need to find a way to get more control.  When the weather gets cold, your draft is going to
get even stronger.


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## Todd (Nov 11, 2011)

What kind of chimney cap do you have? Some can be squished down a few inches to slow down the draft if a pipe damper doesn't help. I know those Quad stoves have air coming in from 4 different places, it would be hard to modify.


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## oldspark (Nov 11, 2011)

That much draft with only 20 feet of chimney, seems odd.


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## embers aplenty (Nov 11, 2011)

I have the Quad Yosemite which is the IR's kid brother. Some of my wood like some willow I have seems to want to burn much more freely, "nearly too hot" then other kinds like my locust and oak.

Not sure how your controls work, my linkage fell off the startup air once and I didn't know it. It was in the open position for a day or two which made for some high temp burns. I threaded the end of the rod and put a lock nut on it so it can't happen again. It almost sounds like your drawing a lot of air to intensify the burn from some where. You might check your controls as best you can without disasembly and see if it looks to be opening and closing good. My starup air lever in the back that the linkage hooks up to has a magnet on each side for open and shut positions.

Don't seem like to strong of a draft would cause all of that especially with a pipe damper installed. You'll figure it out. Someone on here has probably had the same trouble before. I'd maybe try some different wood just to rule that out.


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## Sierra Guy (Nov 11, 2011)

I also have an Isle Royale that's very robust.  I purchased it one year ago and really like it but can't load it up like some on this forum.  Once the fire gets going, I can only put two (three max) 3-4" splits without it getting very hot...650Âº+ (measured on center of top loading door.)  Even with the air all the way shut, the temp sometimes continues to climb and would go beyond 700Âº or even 750Âº without the fan.  I can easily control the temperature by turning on the fan and do that when necessary.  I add the 2 or 3 splits every 1 1/2 hours or so after the previous logs burn down.  We're used to this and it doesn't really bother us but it would be nice to only load every 3 or 4 hours like some.  Forget filling the box and letting it burn all night! 

My flu is about 10' and the chimney adds another 7'-8'.  Our wood is a mixture of Oak and Pine...the Pine really gets it going!...and is very dry and probably seasoned 2-3 years.  This could be one reason for the hot fires.


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## DexterDay (Nov 11, 2011)

Sierra Guy said:
			
		

> I also have an Isle Royale that's very robust.  I purchased it one year ago and really like it but can't load it up like some on this forum.  Once the fire gets going, I can only put two (three max) 3-4" splits without it getting very hot...650Âº+ (measured on center of top loading door.)  Even with the air all the way shut, the temp sometimes continues to climb and would go beyond 700Âº or even 750Âº without the fan.  I can easily control the temperature by turning on the fan and do that when necessary.  I add the 2 or 3 splits every 1 1/2 hours or so after the previous logs burn down.  We're used to this and it doesn't really bother us but it would be nice to only load every 3 or 4 hours like some.  Forget filling the box and letting it burn all night!
> 
> My flu is about 10' and the chimney adds another 7'-8'.  Our wood is a mixture of Oak and Pine...the Pine really gets it going!...and is very dry and probably seasoned 2-3 years.  This could be one reason for the hot fires.



Adding wood every couple hrs does not help. Let the stove "cool" a little bit.. Of there is wood still burning and you throw new wood in, then you have Charred wood thats outgassing and then New fresh wood thats not..  The fresh wood will get much hotter, much faster, and outgas quicker.  This will produce a slower burn time.


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## chadihman (Nov 11, 2011)

I burn locust,oak,hickory,and a little cherry. I split most of my wood to 4-6" pieces. I do try to pack the wood tightly. Both the start up and primary air control linkages seem to be hooked up and working properly. My cap is round and sits right on top of my 6" liner pipe. The cap is about 8" high with a 3" wind shear band in the middle of the screen. I never would have thought that a 20' chimney would cause an over draft but that's what my dealer thinks the problem is. I'm going to weld a draft test fitting onto my stove pipe and check the draft to rule out that problem. This thing better not have a leak somewhere or its going back to quadra fire. I,ll check the draft and let you guys know the outcome. Thanks for all the replies! I will get this figured out and post the final fix and maybe this will help many others.


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## maxed_out (Nov 17, 2011)

any updates on how you are doing on this?


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## begreen (Nov 18, 2011)

chadihman said:
			
		

> I burn locust,oak,hickory,and a little cherry. I split most of my wood to 4-6" pieces. I do try to pack the wood tightly. Both the start up and primary air control linkages seem to be hooked up and working properly. My cap is round and sits right on top of my 6" liner pipe. The cap is about 8" high with a 3" wind shear band in the middle of the screen. I never would have thought that a 20' chimney would cause an over draft but that's what my dealer thinks the problem is. I'm going to weld a draft test fitting onto my stove pipe and check the draft to rule out that problem. This thing better not have a leak somewhere or its going back to quadra fire. I,ll check the draft and let you guys know the outcome. Thanks for all the replies! I will get this figured out and post the final fix and maybe this will help many others.



20 ft of chimney should draft pretty nicely. The IR is an easy breathing stove, but this length chimney shouldn't be an issue. Make sure that the start up air control is working correctly and closes off when it should. A damper in the flue pipe would be the next step, but it first make sure there are no leaks in any of the gasketed openings of the stove.


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## EJL923 (Nov 18, 2011)

I overdraft with a 23' interior chimney.


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## chadihman (Dec 6, 2011)

Hi everyone sorry it took so long for my return. I finally got my draft meter hooked up to my stove pipe and tested my draft with many different temperature fires. My manual states .04 to .1 inches of water. My draft reached a high of .11 and went down to .08 when I closed my stove pipe damper. I guess  this stove is leaking somewhere because I'm still reaching 750 deg  with stove shut all the way down. The dealer tested all the gaskets and blamed it on a strong draft. I guess I'll call them back and tell him I do not have a stronger draft than the acceptable range stated in my manual.


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## chadihman (Dec 6, 2011)

I also wanted to tell you all how I tested my draft. I welded a 1/4" pipe coupler to my stove pipe 6" from the top of  the stove. I connected a copper tube to the 1/4 coupler  and dropped behind the stove to the floor and connected a small rubber hose that connects to my wall mounted dwyer mark II model 25 manometer


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## jdonna (Dec 6, 2011)

I am taking it you are measuring below your pipe damper?  .11" of water sounds pretty high to me.   

Hope things pan out for you, can be frustrating.


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## leeave96 (Dec 6, 2011)

If possible, it might be time to find the air inlets on the stove and start closing them off one by one until you can get it under control.  Played around with doing this on my Englander for a bit - I just used magnets from Lowes.  The main thing is to manage the draft, not turn your stove into a smoke dragon.

Good luck,
Bill


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## EJL923 (Dec 6, 2011)

Also remember that the Dwyer Mark II is accurate to Â±3% full scale, which equates to 0.09in H20.  If I understand their accuracy rating correctly, you're measurements could be off double.  You are measuring at the low end of the scale too, which is usually not as accurate.

With that aside, i have a love/hate relationship with EPA stoves.  Mine definitely drafts too much, and being an insert its difficult to add a damper.  I have done a lot of experimenting, and it all comes down to draft.  The EPA stoves are designed as a tuned system, but they are all based on normal draft.  I have blocked off different inlets (mine has 3rimary, secondary, doghouse) without getting much of a difference or having a stove which doesn't burn as clean.  As leeave said, getting the draft under control is what needs to be done.


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## chadihman (Dec 6, 2011)

I checked with Dwyer and found that my manometer is 3% accurate through the full scale. So if you were to read 3" of water I could be off +/- .09  or 2.91-3.09  I get a max draft of .11 so 3% of that would be .0033 and this is pretty accurate. My draft goes from .11 to .08 when I close my damper. My draft is tested 6" from the stove and my damper is 16" from the stove. Does anybody understand what the manual means by low burn and high burn? I tested my draft when I start the fire and came up with .05 and then tested the draft with the stove at 700 deg and came up with .11 and .08 with the damper closed. The draft never goes higher than .08 with the damper closed.


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## Jags (Dec 6, 2011)

Hmmm...doesn't sound like you have crazy draft according to your measurements.  Also, be aware that 750F on the Isle Royal "ain't no thing".  It does it just to scare you (they are directly related to the devil, himself).  The initial outgas can/will cause the stove top temp to jump.  With mine, the stove will settle back into a 600-650 range for the long haul.  Do you see this, or does it stay high?

You might be a prime candidate for a pipe damper.  These are not usually advocated for the epa stoves, but on occasion it is the right tool for the job.  The IR is one of the easiest breathing stoves that I know of.


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## chadihman (Dec 6, 2011)

My stove does not hold at 750deg for more than an hour or so before coming down to 650. If possible I would like to see my temp hold around 500 deg and burn for at least 8 hours. I don't like how my temp spikes and how fast the wood is consumed. My brother has a harman that will burn for 12 hours on a full load. We both burn wood from the same stockpile.


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## Jags (Dec 6, 2011)

chadihman said:
			
		

> My stove does not hold at 750deg for more than an hour or so before coming down to 650. If possible I would like to see my *temp hold around 500 deg *and burn for at least 8 hours. I don't like how my temp spikes and how fast the wood is consumed. My brother has a harman that will burn for 12 hours on a full load. We both burn wood from the same stockpile.



That is not overly common for an IR (the 500 deg part).  They like to run like a stallion.  I am leaning even more towards a pipe damper, BUT I have some concerns that getting this stove to do what you are asking is going to negatively impact its burn quality (burn dirty).

500 stove top during the outgas phase of the wood is a bit low (in my experience) to maintain proper reburn tube temps.  You are in "cat" territory.


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## jdonna (Dec 6, 2011)

OP, try measuring your draft with no fire.  Generally it should be at .02" from what I have found.   It is nice to know a baseline of chimney draft. With my situation and setup, when the wind is blowing I can see a draft of up to .1" with no fire.  

Is your liner a 6" SS?  How many elbows and interior stove pipe as well.  

Not telling you what to do, but I would contact the manufacture and ask them about their "ideal" draft for a low/moderate burn and high burn range for performance, emissions and temps.


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## chadihman (Dec 6, 2011)

With no fire I have a draft of .01 to .03 depending on wind. I have a 6" ss liner. Two foot up from the stove then a 90 into the chimney 2' then another 90 in the chimney and straight up 20'


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## oldspark (Dec 6, 2011)

"500 stove top during the outgas phase of the wood is a bit low (in my experience) to maintain proper reburn tube temps.  You are in â€œcatâ€ territory"
 Differant brand of stove but my Summit will maintain secondaries at 500 stove top.


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## Jags (Dec 6, 2011)

oldspark said:
			
		

> "500 stove top during the outgas phase of the wood is a bit low (in my experience) to maintain proper reburn tube temps.  You are in â€œcatâ€ territory"
> Differant brand of stove but my Summit will maintain secondaries at 500 stove top.



The IR will to an extent as well, but I think it is on the brink of internal temps to be as effective as possible.


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## chadihman (Dec 7, 2011)

Hey all just wanted to let everyone in on my call to quadra fire. The quad tech told me that the I R should never be fired over 600 deg he said that he suspects there's a leak somewhere. He said to keep working with my dealer so they can log all info. I tried to call my dealer but they won't return my calls. I feel I know more about my stove than my dealer does. Hopefully I can get this thing figured out before it gets really cold. I'll let all know how I make out.


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## oldspark (Dec 7, 2011)

Jags said:
			
		

> oldspark said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Well if 500 is on the low side of good secondaries and he's not to run it over 600 as in his new post that is a mighty narrow burn range is it not.


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## northwinds (Dec 7, 2011)

oldspark said:
			
		

> Jags said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I agree with Jags that 500 is on the low side.  At 500, the chimney still smokes.  

This is the first I've heard of the 600.  The manual advises against overfiring.  "If heater or chimney connector glows, you are overfiring." (page 4 of the manual)

I'm usually between 550 and 700, and it's easy to level out there.  No glowing at those temps.


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## oldspark (Dec 7, 2011)

I will have to look toninght but I am pretty sure I do not get smoke at even 400.


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## northwinds (Dec 7, 2011)

I need to reload now.  I'll then go outside and do some chimney staring.


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## oldspark (Dec 7, 2011)

Just went out and looked and some where around 400 to 450 stove top the chimney quit smoking and just had heat waves, I know these stoves are different in construction but I think 400 would be on the low side of good secondaries unless your stove a lot different than mine. This was with some silver maple and elm, I was surprised at the low amount of somoke at 300 stove top, the secondaries were firing good with the primary air wide open but wont do that as much with oak and white ash. Its amazing the different observations we have with all the variances of these stoves and chimneys. I still can not get the top end that most do.


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## northwinds (Dec 7, 2011)

I reloaded with a mix of oak, elm, and hickory.  At 525, smoke was greatly diminished, but I could still see a bit of gray smoke
against the gray sky.  At 550, I shut the air to half-closed, and no smoke whatsoever.  At 625, I went to almost closed and it 
just leveled off at 650--heat waves.  

I agree about variation in stoves and chimneys and wood.  There are general similarities, but everybody has to find their own 
sweet spot.  

If my memory is correct, the OP in this thread was experiencing the high temps even after putting on a pipe damper and with the
primary air totally closed.  If it's not draft, it has to be a leak somewhere.  

It's a good night for wood heat.  Heading down to 17 degrees tonight.


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## chadihman (Dec 7, 2011)

I'm curious to know what every ones temps are on your stove pipe compared to top of the stove temp. I measure pipe temp 18" above my stove and my pipe temp never goes over 375 deg. It usually hangs at 325-350 deg when the top of the stove is at 700-750. Has anyone ever overheated a Isle Royale or had the secondary tubes glowing? My stove constantly goes to 750 pushing to 800 when I pack my stove. I start the fire and let it climb to 350 then shut it down completely and the climbs to 750 800 after an hour or so. My fire box is filled with dancing flames and the wood is consumed quickly. I have tested both my thermometers against a Infrared gun and found that both pipe and stove top thermometers are within +/- 25 deg. I hear a quiet whistle when I close the air control. Is this normal


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## northwinds (Dec 8, 2011)

I have a probe thermometer for the stovepipe, and temps rise to 800-900 when the stovetop is rising to 550-600.
After the air is shut down, the pipe temp drops below the stovetop temp.

I don't get a whistling sound when shutting the air down.


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## chadihman (Dec 11, 2011)

Hi all, still haven't gotten a call from the dealer yet. I'm getting a little upset now and have made up my mind that I don't want this IR anymore. I don't want a stove that has to be torn down and resealed. I'm not sure if the dealer will want to take it back but I will sit it in front of there door burning and glowing. I really heard good things about quad stoves and am not sure I want another Isle Royale.  Cast iron stoves always scared me. There's to many joints sealed up with cement and to much hardware holding it together. I think I might just go with a steel stove. I'm thinking of the quad 5700. I need a large stove to heat 3000 sq/ft. Does anybody have any input on the 5700? I'm wandering about there burn times and how controllable they are.


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## laynes69 (Dec 12, 2011)

When I test draft, I have a 1/4" copper tube that I insert an inch or two into a 1/4" hole. The copper tube is connected to the manometer tube. .08-.11" is a high draft. Other manufacturers I have seen recommend between .04-.06". I know the key dampers allow some bypassing, but to only slow the draft .03" doesn't sound right. We have a key above our baro for security and it will take draft from .1" to .02" from open to closed. Is the key damper set correctly where it will turn? The draft to me sounds like it could be a problem, you need a way to lower it a little more and see if things improve.


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## chadihman (Dec 12, 2011)

My draft is usually low like .02-.04 with a small fire and warmer outside temps 50  deg or so. I get the highest draft of about .11 to .14 when a hot fire is burning and its cold outside. My draft always drops below .09 when I close my pipe damper. The damper lowers the draft but does not change the fire much if any. My manual states that the chimney draft should be approximately -.04 inch water column during a low burn and -.10 inch w.c. during a high burn, measured 6 inches above the top of the appliance after one hour of operation at each burn setting. I'm not sure about the low burn and high burn but I think my stove burns at high burn all the time. So if I close the damper I'm always below quads recommended max draft of .10. My damper is for a six inch pipe but I would say that the damper is five inches and leaves a half inch gap all the way around it inside my pipe plus there are holes at the center of the damper were the rod goes through. Is this normal for dampers or should it close tighter? Is it a bad idea to use an automatic damper like the type used on oil furnaces? I think they use an adjustable weight to control a door that lets air into your pipe to lower the draft. I'm afraid that style damper will cause more creosote due to the cold air entering the pipe.


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## maxed_out (Dec 12, 2011)

sounds like a real pita either way.  It will be interesting to see where you end up on this one.  One one hand I'm hopeful you got a defective stove becasue if you put in stove #2 and if it behaves the same way, you have to deal with the draft issue.  Good luck and please keep us posted.  

If you really want long burn times do some searching here on the blaze king stoves - the folks that have the bk post some very impressive results.


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## laynes69 (Dec 12, 2011)

Our key damper has very little room around it, it's an older one. For us if I run .08" it will burn quickly. Im running a baro which is required by the manual, we see little creosote. I would look for a different key damper, if not try a baro. I've been back and forth over a baro, but find the fire burns much hotter and longer when the draft is tamed. I've used a key damper, reduced intake and a baro. It chose the baro, but our damper which controls the fire is automatic via thermostat.


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## EJL923 (Dec 12, 2011)

I think a baro for standard stove would allow too much room air up the chimney, resulting in a colder house.  They make sense in wood furnace applications.


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## Jags (Dec 12, 2011)

My experience mirrors that of Northwinds.  And as far as keeping the IR below 600F at all times - I dare ya.  That is just not the way mine runs.

As far as being afraid of cast iron - that is kinda silly.  Cast iron has been used in the making of wood stoves for centuries before plate steel was.


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## chadihman (Dec 14, 2011)

Hi everyone, I finally got in contact with my dealer. The owner told me that I was doing everything right and he had no other fixes. He told me that he was going to request a quad rep. come and look at my stove. I figured I better get all of facts straight before a rep looks at my stove. I grabbed a notebook and my IR temp gun and started recording notes on my stages of burn. I loaded the stove with nice select four inch splits of oak, hickory and maple on top of a few coals. I didn't have the stove jammed full but had a good amount of tightly stacked wood in the stove. I shut the start up control after I seen a flame and then closed the main air control and the pipe damper when the stove was 200 deg. the draft was .04 After one hour the stove top was 729 deg. and the draft was .08. After ten mins. past the stove was 773 deg with the draft at .09. After another ten mins. the stove was 803 deg and the draft was .1. I then was getting concerned with the creaking stove and I turned the fan on high after reaching 806 deg. The stove cooled off 200 deg in the next hour. My house is roasting hot now and the fire is down to 350 deg after loading it 3 hours and ten mins earlier. No flames anymore just a pile of hot coals that I doubt will last another 2 hours. Now do I have fight with quadra fire or not? My dealer told me earlier today that I will shorten the life of the stove if its burnt at 700 deg. Well I reached 806 deg before I got nervous and turned the fan on high to cool it down. Quad says not to burn over 600 deg. and boast a burn time of 20 hrs. Ha Ha Ha not funny! I can't wait untill the rep shows up.


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## maxed_out (Dec 14, 2011)

chadihman, have you ever tried to run the stove with less wood? what results do you get?

once I have coals, my typical reload is 3-4 splits, together they can all easily fit into a 5 gallon bucket.  Again with the unusual weather I'm not going for burn time just secondaries.  She probably needs a re-charge every 4 hours and I could probably get away with 8hrs.

I would think your qf rep should be able to get things straightened out for you.


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## northwinds (Dec 15, 2011)

Please let us know how things turn out.  I'm really curious to see what the explanation is.  Your stove performs 
very differently than mine.  I can't imagine shutting the air down at 200 and having the temps go up to 800.
I don't think about "starting" to close the air until 550.

I'm glad you're getting it checked out by Quadrafire.


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## Baron62 (Dec 24, 2011)

I have a Quadra Fire Isle Royale and I pack it full as possible with dry hard woods and start it with a top down/side corner fire. Let the fire get fairly engulfed then cut back the air control to 1/2 " to 1" open, then walk away. I try not to let the temperature spike too high in the beginning because this burns wood too fast and over heats the house. Goal is to evenly heat the house.


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## maxed_out (Jan 6, 2012)

chadihman, just wonderin whats up with your stove.  things get straight, qf come thru or you go to plan c?


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## Ehouse (Jan 6, 2012)

Just a thought; does it run hotter with the pipe damper closed or open?  If you have a leak somewhere feeding the fire maybe the damper is holding excess heat in the stove.  I ask because my smoke pipe is 4" going into 6" chimney so effectively running half choke and my stove loves to cruise at 750*.

Ehouse


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## chadihman (Jan 13, 2012)

Hi everyone, I have been working with my dealer and talking on the phone with quad a lot lately. The quad rep looked at my stove and said he found nothing. I think he was in a hurry to start his two week Christmas break. He told me that it would be after the new year before I would hear from anyone. Last week I got a call from a very knowledgeable quad tech from WA. He questioned everything and I had answers. He thought that my house might have strong positive pressure and this would make the stove burn hot. I measured my house pressure and found that I actually have negative pressure in my house so that would blow that theory out of the water. He asked me to do the flame pull test even though the rep already did it and said he found nothing. I lit the stove and held a lighter up and down and side to side over the joints. I was shocked when the flame sucked into the joint crack at the bottom front left side. He asked me to send pics of the flame pulling in. Finally I feel relief. I was told that they are replacing my stove. I told them I don't want another IR and would rather have the 5700. I don't want to scare anyone that has a cast stove but I'll be happy to switch to a fully welded stove. I'm gonna miss the beautiful cast iron but not worry anymore about leaking joints. My dealer told me that the replacement 5700 stove should be in today 1/13/12 and installed on the 14th. Thanks everyone for taking your time to help me. I'll let you all know how the 5700 performs.


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## maxed_out (Jan 13, 2012)

glad to see you get to the bottom.  too bad about the defect but it looks like its gonna work out.  First time I've seen one like this. Nice to see qf stand behind the product.


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## Jags (Jan 13, 2012)

maxed_out said:
			
		

> glad to see you get to the bottom.  too bad about the defect but it looks like its gonna work out.  First time I've seen one like this. Nice to see qf stand behind the product.



Yep.  Sucks for you to go through this.  On the other hand, it is the first time I have ever heard of this on an IR.


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## begreen (Jan 13, 2012)

Good to hear that you are on the path to a final resolution. Sorry that you had to go to such lengths to prove your case, but I am glad to hear that Quad tech support listened. Occasionally new stoves do have leaks. The Isle Royale has a good performance record. FWIW, leaks are not just limited to cast iron stoves. BrotherBart had one in a new Englander 30NC. And we see it cropping up with ill fitting doors on new stoves occasionally.


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## northwinds (Jan 15, 2012)

Thanks for reporting back and good luck with the next stove.


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## chadihman (Jan 16, 2012)

Hi everyone, I just wanted to say how much I love my new 5700 What a stove! It has a huge firebox  and fits 24" logs depth wise. This makes for easy loading and no need for those log holders. Haven't packed it yet but I'm expecting really good burn times. If anybody is thinking about the 5700 go for it I love mine. I also owe lots of thanks to Quadra fire. They stand behind there stoves and traded me a higher value 5700 with no cost to me. What a great company!


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## Jags (Jan 16, 2012)

I love it when a plan comes together.  Congrats on the stove.  It should treat you well for many years to come.


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## chadihman (Jan 24, 2012)

I was wandering if anybody would be interested in warming shelves, gold brackets and mitten rods for your Quad Isle Royale? I had the shelves installed on mine but never installed the brackets or the mitten rods. I have no need for them now that I have a 5700.


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## Jags (Jan 24, 2012)

You may also want to post that in the "For sale" forum.


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## js156 (Mar 2, 2014)

All of this will be familiar to you....
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/isle-royale-difficult-to-control-the-burn.125189/

If you have a chance please watch my video.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/73330363@N05/12845501994/


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## chadihman (Mar 5, 2014)

js156 said:


> All of this will be familiar to you....
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/isle-royale-difficult-to-control-the-burn.125189/
> 
> If you have a chance please watch my video.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/73330363@N05/12845501994/


Watched your video and wow that would scare me. Never again will I own a cast iron stove. I love my quad 5700. Use a candle or lighter and slowly follow all your seams to see if the flame gets sucked into a leaky joint. Best time to check for the leak is when its cold outside and the fire is hot with the air control closed.


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## northwinds (Mar 6, 2014)

I think today is the big day for the dealer inspection of js' stove.  That's an unedited video that I'd like to see.  Seriously.


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