# Hearth Install



## Gwleo (Oct 9, 2008)

I will attempt to attach some pictures of my hearth construction.  







Well, I see the pictures aren't lined up in order!  I tried!

Steps:  I am one of those guys that does a ton of research and then draws a sketch, and then tapes the outline on the floor and then goes for it.  I was fortunate that a friend was installing a hearth and wood stove before me; I volunteered to help him for the exchange of knowledge.  It was well worth the time, blood and sweat.

1. I did research on clearances on this web site and printed off the wood stove owners manual I was fairly sure I was going to buy (Englander nc30). 
2. I drew a sketch.
3. I taped out the outline of the hearth and of the stove (I lived with this for a couple of months)  I played with different heights of the wall surround until I found what I liked.
4. I used a rotary saw and cut up the composite wood floor; I removed 1 electrical outlet and covered the hole with drywall and a piece of scrap metal.  I layed out and fastened the metal 2x4s on the floor and then the wall.  I marked the locations of the metal 2x4's on a pieces of tape.  
5. I then cut and screwed on the cement board.  3 layers on the base (because I had plenty and I wanted the base that far off the floor), 1 layer on the toe kick, 2 layers on the back surround ( I used 2 layers for add heat protection and so I could use 3/4" staples for affixing the metal lathe), 1 layer on top of the surround.
6. stapled down metal lathe.  ( I started by cutting the cement board with a utility knife but quickly changed to my worm drive saw, much more dust but worth it)
7. skim coat of spec mix over the lathe
8. started laying fake rock from the top down (so any spec mix that falls doesn't get all over the rock) on the back surround
9. put on the cap stones on top of the back surround (this was a major point of research...free air space vs. enclosed air space...I went trapped air)
10. Layed down the hearth stones  (of course, I had to dry fit, make the custom cuts and then put down)
11. put the rock on the toe kick.  (this rock is floated above the floor in case a new floor is ever put in)
12. clean up
13. set the stove
14. plumb bob from ceiling to center of stove exhaust hole. cut hole. plumb bob from bottom of roof to center of stove exhaust hole.  put in all the pieces and parts with custom cutting on the insulation shield due to height restrictions.  lots of silicone and black jack on the stove pipe weather shield.
15. So far I have had 2 fires curing the stove.  Some smoke of the first, low temp fire, tons of smoke on the second mid-high range fire (drove the wife out of the house!)

Honestly, I probably put in more than 6 months of research on this project.  Just about EVERY stone on the hearth is custom cut with an angle grinder but I think the quality and attention to detail is evident.

Again, Hearth.com was a HUGE part of my research and knowledge; I can't thank everyone enough.  Having a friend putting in a hearth and stove just before I started my project was also a huge advantage.


----------



## webbie (Oct 9, 2008)

Wow, that is a great play by play!

I'm gonna steal that for a wiki article.............well, with full credit, of course!

Can you write a couple sentences of the steps?
Like:

1. Measured out floor based on stove clearances - marked out with masking tape.


It is a really nice setup!


----------



## Gwleo (Oct 9, 2008)

I added the steps to the original post.

I have many pictures of the process; I just took the 6 that I thought best told the story.

Please, use what you wish.  It is what it is partly due to you.


----------



## smokinj (Oct 9, 2008)

Very nicely done!


----------



## Joey Jones (Oct 9, 2008)

Very nice job and sequence of assembly


----------



## jrousell (Oct 9, 2008)

If you make this into a wiki article-- you probably should make note that wiithout spacing at bottom and top that  backside deosn't qiualify as a NFPA heat shield reducing clearances...
  just so someone  in the future doesn't get confused and think it does...

and -- ditto to what evryone else said- that looks awesome!


----------



## Joey Jones (Oct 10, 2008)

adkdadto4 said:
			
		

> If you make this into a wiki article-- you probably should make note that wiithout spacing at bottom and top that  backside deosn't qiualify as a NFPA heat shield reducing clearances...
> just so someone  in the future doesn't get confused and think it does...
> 
> and -- ditto to what evryone else said- that looks awesome!



You are right! The 1" RULE...good observation


----------



## BJ64 (Oct 11, 2008)

That is quite impressive. 

I like it a lot.


----------



## jghall (Oct 11, 2008)

very nice setup...


----------



## Xena (Oct 11, 2008)

Very beautiful and the workmanship is top notch!
Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Highbeam (Oct 13, 2008)

adkdadto4 said:
			
		

> If you make this into a wiki article-- you probably should make note that wiithout spacing at bottom and top that  backside deosn't qiualify as a NFPA heat shield reducing clearances...
> just so someone  in the future doesn't get confused and think it does



Why is it important whether it qualifies as an NFPA heat shield? When was the last time anyone used anything other than the manufacturer's clearance specs for installation of a modern stove? 

The hearth is very very good. I especially like the stacked stone and the steel studs. Did you add any additional support directly beneath the stove legs? I also used a steel stud platform and only wished that I had added some solid support beneath the legs.


----------



## webbie (Oct 15, 2008)

Highbean, the stove looks like it is close to meeting clearances anyway (to original combustible wall), so more ventilation may be a moot point. Still, if this was a completely generic install, then the wall panels would need to be ventilated more for the 66% reduction (12" to original wall.)


----------



## BrotherBart (Oct 15, 2008)

That is a wonderful job. Damn I hate people with skills!


----------



## Gwleo (Oct 15, 2008)

Highbeam...I layed the metal 2x4's on edge and fairly close together (lots of screws); I was walking on the top of the 2x4's checking there strength.  I then screwed on 3 layers of 1/2" cement board on top in alternating alignments (plus metal lathe, plus 2" of hearth stone).  That stiffened the hearth pad very nicely.  I am not concerned about the weight of the stove.

BroBart, I am not that skilled.  Slow and steady was the key.  I didn't mention the 2 times I was using my angle grinder custom cutting the stone and ground into my finger!  The last time I dropped the grinder, which was still running, the grinder hit the deck and then ran under my deck furniture and proceeded to bounce around off of all the legs until I pulled the plug!  I would have been laughing my butt off if it wasn't me standing there bleeding.  LESSON LEARNED: wear a glove on the hand holding the stone and buy a quality grinder with a toggle switch.

Webmaster, yup you are right on the clearances.  That is one of the reasons I had it all taped off on the floor and wall, to insure proper clearances to the wall.  This helped with my decision not to have free air movement.  Plus, it just would not have looked as good.  My buddy I helped build a hearth for before mine did the free air surround (although I don't think he needed to); it looks good just not my taste.


----------



## glassmanjpf (Oct 16, 2008)

Sweet looking install!  Enjoy


----------

