# Welding around flue outlet area?



## ponderosa77 (Nov 29, 2015)

Is it possible to weld and repair the outlet on this old stove?  Clearly, it has been overheated in its past.


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## bholler (Nov 30, 2015)

yes a good welding shop could replace that collar


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## coaly (Nov 30, 2015)

Or just insert connector pipe fully into outlet. Normal crimped joints leak more than that.
I wouldn't say it was overheated. That is just one of the hotter parts of the stove. Now it has an expansion joint.
My brand new Kitchen Queen has a fabricated collar made from flat 1/4 inch steel curled into a radius for 7 inch pipe. The ends are open like that, I presume for expansion.
Cracks on the stove back need to be stop drilled and welded, but yours isn't going anywhere like these;






If it bothers you, a dab of Rutland gasket cement will fill it if you seal the crimped end at stove with it.


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## ponderosa77 (Nov 30, 2015)

Thanks for the replies. 

My concern is that I can see a little point of light when looking through the firebox toward the rear and don't want that to grow larger over time.  It does look like the gap on the outer collar is a factory gap, not a crack.  However, the inner collar crack looks like it should be welded.  It looks like it can be done, providing any rust or other loose material is removed first.

I was under the impression that the stove pipe fits around the outside of the stove collar flange.


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## coaly (Nov 30, 2015)

Stove pipe goes inside. Depending on how old this is, many of the first stoves had thin walled pipe that measured 6 or 8 inches OUTSIDE. These were a tight fit and required over-crimping by hand of the male connector pipe to fit inside. As you crimp it down smaller, bending outward with the hand crimpers keeps the end from becoming cone shaped like a funnel. Later, thicker walled pipe was made for stoves with 6 or 8 inch INSIDE that fits connector pipe much better.
The old thin type do fit inside the female end just right, but then you have the wrong end of elbow sticking up. It needs to be crimped male end down to prevent liquid that may condensate from running out of the pipe joints. If you're connecting to a side or rear vent stove, the side of a T can be used to go OVER the collar and position male crimped end of the T down to be capped, and larger female end up. Any condensate will go straight down and evaporate in the cap. 3 screws at each pipe joint keep it straight and connected.


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## ponderosa77 (Dec 1, 2015)

coaly said:


> Stove pipe goes inside. Depending on how old this is, many of the first stoves had thin walled pipe that measured 6 or 8 inches OUTSIDE. These were a tight fit and required over-crimping by hand of the male connector pipe to fit inside. As you crimp it down smaller, bending outward with the hand crimpers keeps the end from becoming cone shaped like a funnel. Later, thicker walled pipe was made for stoves with 6 or 8 inch INSIDE that fits connector pipe much better.
> The old thin type do fit inside the female end just right, but then you have the wrong end of elbow sticking up. It needs to be crimped male end down to prevent liquid that may condensate from running out of the pipe joints. If you're connecting to a side or rear vent stove, the side of a T can be used to go OVER the collar and position male crimped end of the T down to be capped, and larger female end up. Any condensate will go straight down and evaporate in the cap. 3 screws at each pipe joint keep it straight and connected.
> 
> View attachment 168331


 
That looks like a nice pipe install and looks like a straight rise off the T.  Can the cap be removed for cleanup?

I had the stove welded today and checked with the insurance company.  Unless I decide to buff, paint, and fire/cure it outside, I think it's ready to move into the basement.  I'll start another thread regarding installation options.


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## coaly (Dec 1, 2015)

Yes, 3 screws in cap. It goes straight up through cathedral ceiling mounted support box.

It's in a cabin that's only used occasionally and I sat the stove on wood floor with galvanized sheet metal for ember protection under solid bricks. I remove a brick and there's a hole in the floor for flexible cleaning rod to go through. I clean all my chimneys from the bottom with a soot eater or brush. The trick is a second person to hold a small plastic garbage bag tight to the pipe sticking down. First, I poke a small hole in the bottom at center of bag. I have brush on one flexible rod section and push the rod down through bag up to the brush. Insert brush into pipe and have helper hold the bag tight to pipe. By squeezing the bag on the rod at bottom of bag, it prevents soot from falling out around cleaning rod too much. The rod slides up through the bag while you hold bag snug to rod. Screw cleaning rod lengths on, and brush until it hits cap. Everything falls into the bag. Cleanup is minimal and I don't have electric for a vacuum. Doing it with chimney warm is best to allow any dust or fly ash to be drafted up chimney.
Same as cleaning ash, do it with chimney hot and drafting to prevent fly ash from settling in the house.


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