# Quadra Fire Castile 2004 project/input



## Burd (Apr 5, 2014)

First things first
I found a deal for the stove on Craig list. 
It's a 2004
 What I found is that the glass door needs a gasket.
I'm hoping that the gasket is cheap? With this being a2004 does this stove have air wash? Is the gaskets only three sides on the glass
I also found out that the stove was sitting in a garage for years and the fire box has a lot of surface rust. I toke the back panels out and the sheet metal was in really good shape and so was the convection tubes...on the exhaust fan there was little ash and the fan looked intacted.
I opened the ash pan and it looked to have very little wear...the clean out handle at this time seized
to the fire pot but looks in good shape. The fire pot needs a good cleaning
I plugged in the stove and the exhaust fan started ? Why
Their isn't thermostat at is time..
I toke the panel off to find Cobb Webb's  but very little ash and dirt.
The control box is in cased in a plastic box with two small red and green lights. When I plugged the   stove in they didn't light up? Is this normal? How do you open the box to get to the fuse?
Tomorrow I'm going to start cleaning it.
O how do you get to the combustion motor? It's it behind the convention fan?

I'm so hoping that I got this stove for a good deal. So far it looks like it was well takin care of.. But then again this is my first pellet stove.
I'm hoping for some pointer before I tar it down.


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## Mt Bob (Apr 5, 2014)

http://hearthnhome.com/downloads/installManuals/250_6422.pdf 


http://hearthnhome.com/downloads/serviceParts/Castile-FS-B.pdf

Gaskets probably the cheapest thing.Air wash probably the missing gasket.Do not worry about blower coming on,built in safety.Clean and lube(if possible) both blowers.


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## SwineFlue (Apr 5, 2014)

The door "tadpole"  gasket is cheap... dealer charged me $3 last year.    The gasket is on 3 sides: the Castile started with a top-airwash, then switched to a bottom-airwash somewhere between my 2002 model & maybe 2005 or so.    The older stoves used metal tabs to hold the glass in.   Be careful bending those tabs, you don't want to crack the glass.  Newer stoves use metal rods, much easier.  The glass door lifts off at the hinges, by the way.

If the firepot cleanout is stuck...  reach under the firepot with your right hand and use your thumb to push the cleanout (it pivots toward the back of the stove)  while pulling the rod with your left hand hand.   The extra leverage may free it up.

The exhaust fan will always run for about 5 minutes when you first plug it in.   It's to clear out any smoke if there had been a power outage.

To test the stove, you can use a wire across the thermostat terminal screws instead of an actual thermostat.

The older stoves have a control box with a red and a green light.   They indicate the thermocouple temperature.  Green lights up around 200F and red at 600F.

Download the manuals that bob bare linked, they provide good instructions for replacing blowers.   You'll need a new gasket for the combustion blower.


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## Burd (Apr 6, 2014)

I read the manual last night..
I really thought the pellet stove has three fans. Boy was I wrong.
How do I now if I have the top air wash.   The door has the four metal tads..
Thanks for the help. I'll be taking pic.
Could someone tell me how the stove puts air on the burn pot. Is this done from the exhaust fan.
I know this my sound stupid but. What's the stove process on start up?


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## Mt Bob (Apr 6, 2014)

Wherever the glass gasket is missing(top or bottom) is your air wash.Stove requires a thermostat.You can wire a on off switch to the 2 thermostat terminals.Page 21 is startup.Put a handfull of pellets in burn pot,temp switch to hi,turn up(on) thermostat,sove will self light.If does not stay running may have to press reset and do again,as auger system needs to fill itself.Most dtoves have 3 motors,2 blowers.Combustion blower draws air through firebox/burnpot and pushes it out.Good luck.


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## stovelark (Apr 6, 2014)

Hi Burd,  the Castile is a very stove nice still supported logistically from Quadrafire.  The air wash is the opening on the bottom of the glass, gasket is on 3 sides.  On start up, when you plug in stove, exh blower comes on.  When thermostat calls for heat (or if you jumper across terminals) you'll see a red call light come on at control board area.  If vacuum is established in burn pot area/combustion chamber, the auger will be allowed to drop pellets.  The ignitor will come on.  When the thermocouple senses a burnpot temp of 200 degrees the green light will come on the control board (that plastic box) at 600 a red light comes on.  If you get a yellow light, that means the thermocouple signal is missing and its prob bad.  The thermocouple senses heat, so its the ignition, proof of fire sensor.  When this is achieved, the auger will start feeding again.  The stove has three heat levels (on back) hi/med/lo.  When the combustion heats up the heat exchanger housing S1 (snap disk 1) will turn on the convection blower.  Bypassing this snap disk will also turn on convex blower.  On initial power up also, you will get a series of blue blinking lights for 1 minute from the control board, this tells you the position the box is set to (the control board is used in many stove models, and selects the software for that model of stove).  Shutdown is the opposite of this, after you disconnect jumper across tstat terminals or if the tstat temp is satisfied, the red call light goes off, and the stove cools off and shuts down.  Sorry this so long


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## Burd (Apr 6, 2014)

stovelark said:


> Hi Burd,  the Castile is a very stove nice still supported logistically from Quadrafire.  The air wash is the opening on the bottom of the glass, gasket is on 3 sides.  On start up, when you plug in stove, exh blower comes on.  When thermostat calls for heat (or if you jumper across terminals) you'll see a red call light come on at control board area.  If vacuum is established in burn pot area/combustion chamber, the auger will be allowed to drop pellets.  The ignitor will come on.  When the thermocouple senses a burnpot temp of 200 degrees the green light will come on the control board (that plastic box) at 600 a red light comes on.  If you get a yellow light, that means the thermocouple signal is missing and its prob bad.  The thermocouple senses heat, so its the ignition, proof of fire sensor.  When this is achieved, the auger will start feeding again.  The stove has three heat (on back) hi/med/lo.  When the combustion heats up the heat exchanger housing S1 (snap disk 1) will turn on the convection blower.  Bypassing this snap disk will also turn on convex blower.  On initial power up also, you will get a series of blue blinking lights for 1 minute from thcontrol board, this tells you the position the box is set to (the control board is used in many stove models, and selects the software for that model of stove).  Shutdown is the opposite of this, after you disconnect jumper across tstat terminals or if the tstat temp is satisfied, the red call light goes off, and the stove cools off and shuts down.  Sorry this so long



This is great info 
We're can I find the codes for the lights on the control box. Please note that this stove only shows s red and green. Do they change color?

T


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## Burd (Apr 6, 2014)

Is the exshaust fan the same as the combustion fan?


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## Mt Bob (Apr 6, 2014)

Page 34 explains lights.Combustion blower is exhaust fan.No self diagnosis/trouble codes.


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## tjnamtiw (Apr 6, 2014)

I have two Quads made in 2007.  One has bottom air wash and the other has top air wash, so clearly that was the year they changed.  Just put yours where it is now.


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## Burd (Apr 6, 2014)

Update
I've toke the stove apart today and tested the fans and auger motor. So far everything is working including the igniter. I haven't fired it up yet as I don't have the door gasket.


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## Burd (Apr 6, 2014)

Can I test the stove without the gasket?
how does the vacuum switch work when its connected to the auger chamber?
also in the manual it indicates the fuses on the back by the thermostat connector there is no fuse there. Could someone tell me were the fuse  is. the control box is date 2004.


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## Mt Bob (Apr 6, 2014)

Page 36 for fuse.Do not try and run without gasket.


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## Burd (Apr 6, 2014)

It's not their? I had the entire stove apart.


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## Mt Bob (Apr 6, 2014)

If there is no hole,follow power wires inside stove.If that does not work.take pictures and post.


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

I am NOT crazy I am just baffled I cannot find an inline fuse anywhere. there is a red clip on the side of the control box and it looks like a car fuse. But its not s fuse that I've ever seen.
What is the red clip?


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

Sorry for the sideways pictures.


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

how is vacuum detected in the burn pot when  when the vacuum pump is hooked into the auger chamber?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Apr 7, 2014)

Burd said:


> how is vacuum detected in the burn pot when  when the vacuum pump is hooked into the auger chamber?



There is no vacuum pump.

The vacuum is actually a pressure difference caused by the airflow created by the combustion blower.


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> There is no vacuum pump.
> 
> The vacuum is actually a pressure difference caused by the airflow created by the combustion blower.


 
Thanks for the info.Im new with the pellet stoves. Do you have any other info on this stove?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Apr 7, 2014)

Only what is in the manuals or has been posted by several Quad service folks to the forum.

That thing you were thinking is a pump is likely the vacuum (pressure differential) sensing switch it only needs a hose going to anyplace that is open to the firebox in order to work.


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## stovelark (Apr 7, 2014)

Burd-   The vac switch is just that, a switch.  When the stove tstat calls for heat, the combustion blower comes on, if power is avail.  The vacuum (or suction) created through the combustion chamber closes that vac sw, allowing power through to the auger circuit.  The auger also has an overheat sensor (Snap disc 2).  The vacuum hose connects to the drop tube on the castile for its vacuum detection.  Ensure both ends of the hose are clear of obstructions.  Also, if door isn't closed, glass breaks, the stove runs out of fuel or if the door gasket leaks excessively- no vacuum will be achieved, no auger movement. The last and most important thing, when the stove is sufficiently clogged up (or the exh path for that matter), the comb blower will not build up sufficient vacuum and no feed.  That's why it's a safety switch, to let you know its had enough and is time to clean.  The online videos will guide you on youtube, the manual details all this as well.  Good luck.  The fuse is normally in the housing that the control board resides in. You'll find it is a black fuse cap prob next to the tstat call light for heat.


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

stovelark said:


> Burd-   The vac switch is just that, a switch.  When the stove tstat calls for heat, the combustion blower comes on, if power is avail.  The vacuum (or suction) created through the combustion chamber closes that vac sw, allowing power through to the auger circuit.  The auger also has an overheat sensor (Snap disc 2).  The vacuum hose connects to the drop tube on the castile for its vacuum detection.  Ensure both ends of the hose are clear of obstructions.  Also, if door isn't closed, glass breaks, the stove runs out of fuel or if the door gasket leaks excessively- no vacuum will be achieved, no auger movement. The last and most important thing, when the stove is sufficiently clogged up (or the exh path for that matter), the comb blower will not build up sufficient vacuum and no feed.  That's why it's a safety switch, to let you know its had enough and is time to clean.  The online videos will guide you on youtube, the manual details all this as well.  Good luck.  The fuse is normally in the housing that the control board resides in. You'll find it is a black fuse cap prob next to the tstat call light for heat.


 
Tahks for the gret info on the vac.. Please look at the pictures for the fuse its not were the maunual says it is? Im not crazy I toke that intier stove apart yesturday I can't find it. And its not on the the power lines going to the control box


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## SmokeyTheBear (Apr 7, 2014)

tj or stovelark do you remember when HHT bought Quadrafire?


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## stovelark (Apr 7, 2014)

Hi Smoke,   not exactly sure, think it was late 1990's I bought my first quad wood stove in 96 and they were still Aladdin steel then..


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## DMKNLD (Apr 7, 2014)

Burd said:


> Tahks for the gret info on the vac.. Please look at the pictures for the fuse its not were the maunual says it is? Im not crazy I toke that intier stove apart yesturday I can't find it. And its not on the the power lines going to the control box



As you're looking at the right side of the stove, to the left of the control board towards the middle of the stove is the red thermostat call for heat light - just below that light is the fuse holder that has the 7 amp fuse inside. Below is a pic of the fuse holder.


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

stovelark said:


> Hi Smoke,   not exactly sure, think it was late 1990's I bought my first quad wood stove in 96 and they were still Aladdin steel then..


 
Have you ever seen that type of control box? Im starting to think I got the one and only stove that doesn't have a fuse?


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

DMKNLD said:


> As you're looking at the right side of the stove, to the left of the control board is the red thermostat call for heat light - just below that light is the fuse holder that has the 7 amp fuse inside. Below is a pic of the fuse holder.


 
Please take a look at the pictures I posted earlier. its not there


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## stovelark (Apr 7, 2014)

Hi Burd-   sure   the early boxes were not clear, presently the control board is clear plastic.  I've never seen one without a fuse to protect the line.


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

DMKNLD said:


> As you're looking at the right side of the stove, to the left of the control board towards the middle of the stove is the red thermostat call for heat light - just below that light is the fuse holder that has the 7 amp fuse inside. Below is a pic of the fuse holder.


 
Also my call lights are on top of the control box


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

stovelark said:


> Hi Burd-   sure   the early boxes were not clear, presently the control board is clear plastic.  I've never seen one without a fuse to protect the line.


 
ya this is baffling. can that box come apart to see if its inside ? Would I damage anything if I do so


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## DMKNLD (Apr 7, 2014)

The control box lights are separate from the thermostat call for heat light - do you see the call for heat light, that is mounted to the metal housing that the control box mounts to ? The fuse holder is below the red call for heat light. May be easier to see if you take the control box out - make sure the stove is unplugged. My Castile is an earlier version than yours, it has 8 vs 10 heat exchanger tubes. I had the same older style grey control box before I replaced it with the new clearer box, so I know the fuse is not in the box. Keep looking and you should find it.


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

DMKNLD said:


> The control box lights are separate from the thermostat call for heat light - do you see the call for heat light, that is mounted to the metal housing that the control box mounts to ? The fuse holder is below the red call for heat light. May be easier to see if you take the control box out - make sure the stove is unplugged. My Castile is an earlier version than yours, it has 8 vs 10 heat exchanger tubes. I had the same older style grey control box before I replaced it with the new clearer box, so I know the fuse is not in the box. Keep looking and you should find it.


 
I'll have to look when I get home from work. Im hoping  to fire it up later.
Can I inbox you If I have any ?


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## DMKNLD (Apr 7, 2014)

Burd said:


> I'll have to look when I get home from work. Im hoping  to fire it up later.
> Can I inbox you If I have any ?



Here's a couple smartphone pics of the fuse and call for heat light - the right edge of the photos are the front edge of the control box. Private message me if any questions.


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## CaptSpiff (Apr 7, 2014)

Burd said:


> Please take a look at the pictures I posted earlier. its not there



Re your posted picture (20140407_060005.jpg) showing the backside of the T-Stat terminal block (yellow wires) and below that the backside of the 120v Power Connector: follow the BLACK wire from the back of the power connector to the Fuse Holder.


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

I just went out for lunch and puchased the tadpole gasket at dealer prices( i wont do that again )
This is killin me as I'm at work and I need to find this call light. I had that inteir stove apart to test and clean the motors and I didnt see it. I'll look harder
When I get home Im going to fire it up by putting a jumper on the thermostat connectors.
I'll need some short of clarification on it operating correctly.
So far I have $550 dollars in to this thing and I'm hoping I scored.
Now its time to test the most expensive part the control box.
I'll post the results tonight.


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

so I got home and I took the control box off to find the fuse and the call lite. still no inline fuse it seems to be some sort of reset switch..
can anyone tell me what the red clip is( not the call light)


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## DMKNLD (Apr 7, 2014)

Looking closer at your pic Burd, what looks like a rocker switch has "7 AMP" written next to it, so that has to be the reference to the fuse amperage. But I can't advise where the fuse might actually go. Does the back side of that switch have access to it when you have the control board out ?


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## SmokeyTheBear (Apr 7, 2014)

Burd, 

You need to talk to someone with a controller of the same vintage or who has a set of manuals covering that stove and all of the supported controllers quad has had more than a couple of controllers over the years, but I'll hazard a guess that the clip is some kind of a testing device to bring signals outside a control box or cabling system and/or a means to program a controller for different stoves.  The current line of controllers is set using rotary switches for several different stoves in the Quadrafire line.  

Before I'd even plug that unit in let alone fire it up I'd be damn certain that the wiring corresponded with the manual that came with the stove along with any technical bulletins dealing with that controller.

It isn't unknown for people to modify stoves on their own and such stoves can be very dangerous.


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## Mt Bob (Apr 7, 2014)

dmknld may be right,the square device appears to be a low profile panel mount fuse holder,push the switch and center comes out,holding fuse.Smokey may be right,the red thing may be a simple jumper block to change programming,or an old style repeating fuse.Best guess,as pictures not the best.Also,the round thing may be your call light,minus the cover.Looking at the control box looks like stove has missed at least 2 updates,but not a problem if it runs.Bob


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

Thanks smokey I'll make sure it is running correctly before it goes in the house


SmokeyTheBear said:


> Burd,
> 
> You need to talk to someone with a controller of the same vintage or who has a set of manuals covering that stove and all of the supported controllers quad has had more than a couple of controllers over the years, but I'll hazard a guess that the clip is some kind of a testing device to bring signals outside a control box or cabling system and/or a means to program a controller for different stoves.  The current line of controllers is set using rotary switches for several different stoves in the Quadrafire line.
> 
> ...


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

I'm not sure it has access...I beleive its a breaker as I sorted out a wire to the exhaust





DMKNLD said:


> Looking closer at your pic Burd, what looks like a rocker switch has "7 AMP" written next to it, so that has to be the reference to the fuse amperage. But I can't advise where the fuse might actually go. Does the back side of that switch have access to it when you have the control board out ?


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

Well boys. I tried to fire it up.when I plug it in the exhaust fan came on. I then proceeded to put the jumpers on the thermostat connectors.I heard the control box click call light came on and then  ignitor came on as it stunk to high heaven.unfortunately the auger was not turning I know the auger works because I tested it. Is there a safety switch for the auger that I am missing I do not see any wires leading to the hopper.thinking that was it I even close the door. Please note: the unit was set on high as the manual says and then I push the reset button and still no auger movement.thinking it was the vacuum I jumped the two yellow wires and still nothing.as for the red clip it definitely has to be some kind of communication port..
Am I doing something wrong on start up?
Has to be the older model as the air washes on the top of the glass and not the bottom.


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## Mt Bob (Apr 7, 2014)

Found it,it is a carling circuit beaker made to fit in round hole.I suspect someone had issues with the stove to do that.


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## Mt Bob (Apr 7, 2014)

Check for voltage at vacuum switch,if ok,jumper snap disc #2.


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## Don2222 (Apr 7, 2014)

Hello

Here are two Quad Contours I am rebuilding. The 1st one has a new clear control box that I installed to upgrade the stove. It resolves the CSS = Cold Start Syndrome I discovered by running the exhaust blower on high during the start cycle.

The 2nd pic shows the old Quad Contour I just picked up with the old gray control box and what looks like an Auto Fuse. I ordered a new wire harness (Includes new Fuse Holder) and I may upgrade the control box to bring this stove up to snuff!

See fuses in pics below.


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

well I couldn't help myself I had to go out and find out what's going on with that stove I take the control board apart.as seen in the first picture I see a green light inside the box so I decided to take it apart.it said don't break seal or it would void the warranty what a joke.I found the fuse inside on the panel itself.pic#2At this point I had a controller in my hand and wondered why the auger wouldn't turn I pulled a vacuum line of the auger tube and suck on the line and sure enough the vacuum switch trips an auger moves...


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## DMKNLD (Apr 7, 2014)

Burd, 

Your jerry rigged fuse holder must be working or you wouldn't have power to your combustion fan or control board - so that's a good trouble shooting step to have behind you. Make sure the tube from the vacuum switch to the auger tube isn't plugged up with sawdust or cracked, usually nearer to the nipple at one end of it or the other, as that can disable the auger. I assume you put your new tadpole door seal in? Is the firepot gasket in OK shape? Any significant air leaks through the door or the pot gasket can frig up your vacuum as well and won't let the auger turn.

X2 on checking your #2 snap disc as well.


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

now I really can't help myself I grabbed some pellets and add about 4 pounds in the hopper.I had to do the tube thing a few times at to activate vacuumswitch.I filled the auger and put a handful of pellets in the pot.I open that ash door to see if the igniter was still hot. Don't touch it it's hot..wala we had a  ignition


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## DMKNLD (Apr 7, 2014)

Fire is good, dude!  It sounds like maybe the nipple at the auger end of the vacuum tubing might be plugged up. Disconnect the tubing at the vac switch end and blow into it to see if it clears.


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

all gaskets replaced on Sunday. I remember reading a post about that vacuum.I cleared the line when I was cleaning it..the canister must have been stuck since it was sitting for 4 years. My need a new one..I'll keep testing it before the instal.   yo you're a big help if I ever run into you I'll buy you a beer or send you a Christmas card
that is not a jerry rig fuse holder I figure it out it is a communication port to change the program.


DMKNLD said:


> Burd,
> 
> Your jerry rigged fuse holder must be working or you wouldn't have power to your combustion fan or control board - so that's a good trouble shooting step to have behind you. Make sure the tube from the vacuum switch to the auger tube isn't plugged up with sawdust or cracked, usually nearer to the nipple at one end of it or the other, as that can disable the auger. I assume you put your new tadpole door seal in? Is the firepot gasket in OK shape? Any significant air leaks through the door or the pot gasket can frig up your vacuum as well and won't let the auger turn.
> 
> X2 on checking your #2 snap disc as well.


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## Don2222 (Apr 7, 2014)

Burd said:


> well I couldn't help myself I had to go out and find out what's going on with that stove I take the control board apart.as seen in the first picture I see a green light inside the box so I decided to take it apart.it said don't break seal or it would void the warranty what a joke.I found the fuse inside on the panel itself.pic#2At this point I had a controller in my hand and wondered why the auger wouldn't turn I pulled a vacuum line of the auger tube and suck on the line and sure enough the vacuum switch trips an auger moves...



Hello
I have a board fuse too, It is a mini slo-blo 800ma fuse, not the same as the larger AGC 7 - 7 amp stove fuse on the incoming AC line in the Fuse holder.
See pics below
Click to Enlarge


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## DMKNLD (Apr 7, 2014)

Back at ya. brother. That's what this forum is all about. The carling circuit breaker - what looks like the rocker switch below your call for fire light - apparently is your jerry rigged fuse. It's working though, so that's good !

X2 on your assessment that your vacuum switch diaphragm is intermittently sticking - I don't know if those will loosen up or not with use or if you'll need a new one - it may make it through this burn season. If not, $46 on e-bay isn't too bad of a parts investment for a $500 beauty of a stove you got. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vacuum-swit...Stoves-SRV7000-531-Instructions-/121275243645

Welcome to the loyal Quad club!


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## Don2222 (Apr 7, 2014)

Burd said:


> all gaskets replaced on Sunday. I remember reading a post about that vacuum.I cleared the line when I was cleaning it..the canister must have been stuck since it was sitting for 4 years. My need a new one..I'll keep testing it before the instal.   yo you're a big help if I ever run into you I'll buy you a beer or send you a Christmas card
> that is not a jerry rig fuse holder I figure it out it is a communication port to change the program.



That makes sense about the old comm port.
The new clear control boxes have a rotary switch in the same spot to change the program for the model stove you have.


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

Just got back from the garage to make sure the stove shut down.. ice cold and the fan was still running burn pot was empty. This can't be good for start up?  Convection fan was off...


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

Don2222 said:


> Hello
> 
> Here are two Quad Contours I am rebuilding. The 1st one has a new clear control box that I installed to upgrade the stove. It resolves the CSS = Cold Start Syndrome I discovered by running the exhaust blower on high during the start cycle.
> 
> ...


Don2222 I did the test run and ran the stove for about 30 min. I pulled the jumper off to shut it down. Went back out fan still running stove ice cold f  pot was empty... Is this considered CSS. How is this fixed?


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## Burd (Apr 7, 2014)

How much for the up dated board?


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## DMKNLD (Apr 8, 2014)

Don2222's post on the Cold Start Syndrome refers to when the stove starts up after a prolonged period of shut-down where the older style grey control box would fail to feed enough pellets in the initial pellet drop to get the fire box to the 200 F temp necessary to start the auger again at it's regular feed interval, causing a failed start up that caused the stove to shut down. The new clearer plastic control boxes are programmed to have the auger dump more pellets on the initial call for fire, and also temporarily increases the combustion fan speed to facilitate initial pellet combustion, thus avoiding failed start ups. The new boxes also have the option to increase the pellet feed rate by 10% as a programmable option.

Part of the CSS issues also had to be related, at least in part, to reduced combustion fan efficiency and / or high end EVL readings, among other factors that reduced the burn efficiency, as some folks still using their OEM grey control box relate never having any cold start problems. But OE control boxes lasting more than 8 - 10 yrs from the stove production date seem to be the exception rather than the rule. So until you get your stove hooked up to your dedicated vent system and have everything running up to speed, you won't know if you have a CSS issue with your control box or not. 

New control boards are $$$ - I see Stove World has them for sale on-line for around $198 - typically they are closer to $300 or so new. I got lucky when my OE grey box bit the dust and my local Quad dealer sold me his demo stove control box for 1/2 the price of a new one.

So where are you at now, Burd? Is the only thing jumpered your t-stat, and otherwise everything else save your intermittent vac switch issue is working OK?


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## Burd (Apr 8, 2014)

DMKNLD said:


> Don2222's post on the Cold Start Syndrome refers to when the stove starts up after a prolonged period of shut-down where the older style grey control box would fail to feed enough pellets in the initial pellet drop to get the fire box to the 200 F temp necessary to start the auger again at it's regular feed interval, causing a failed start up that caused the stove to shut down. The new clearer plastic control boxes are programmed to have the auger dump more pellets on the initial call for fire, and also temporarily increases the combustion fan speed to facilitate initial pellet combustion, thus avoiding failed start ups. The new boxes also have the option to increase the pellet feed rate by 10% as a programmable option.
> 
> Part of the CSS issues also had to be related, at least in part, to reduced combustion fan efficiency and / or high end EVL readings, among other factors that reduced the burn efficiency, as some folks still using their OEM grey control box relate never having any cold start problems. But OE control boxes lasting more than 8 - 10 yrs from the stove production date seem to be the exception rather than the rule. So until you get your stove hooked up to your dedicated vent system and have everything running up to speed, you won't know if you have a CSS issue with your control box or not.
> 
> ...


 
My main concern right now is that the combustion fan isn't shutting down. Even when I plug in the stove the fan starts and won't shut down( Its not calling for heat at this point)I thought I read some we're that this is done for safty reasons before start up but should shut down with in a few minutes. Last night I went out to make sure it was shut down completely after the test fire and 40minutes after shut down it was still running.
Where I'm at:
At this point I think I need to run the stove some more to help break in parts that have beed sitting in a damp garage for four years.
Im thinking that the control box most likly will have to be replaced to control the combustion fan? It seems to be running at one constant speed? (YOUR THOUGHT)does the control box contorl this?
?
Once the stove is is fired up and the thermostate is satisfied the stove should shut down completly. Once the thermo calls for heat and on start up the auger refills the burn pot completely? Or is there still remaining unburnt pellet in the pot (coal)and the auger goes back to its cycle.???
High /med /low switch seems to be working. once the covection fan started I started playing with the switch. fan speed went down and the auger rotation.(I will test this again today)
Im thinking that the vac switch isnt working. I open the door to see if the auger would stop and it didn't. the flame in the burnpot did.
At this point this deal is getting expensive but well worth the work.
Your thoughts


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## CaptSpiff (Apr 8, 2014)

Don2222 said:


> Hello
> 
> Here are two Quad Contours I am rebuilding.
> 
> ...



You sub'd in a 25amp car fuse ?


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## Burd (Apr 8, 2014)

CaptSpiff said:


> You sub'd in a 25amp car fuse ?


 
AAAa Nooo


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## Don2222 (Apr 8, 2014)

CaptSpiff said:


> You sub'd in a 25amp car fuse ?



That is how the stove was when I got it? ? ? I am replacing the whole thing with a new wire harness.


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## SmokeyTheBear (Apr 8, 2014)

Burd said:


> Don2222 I did the test run and ran the stove for about 30 min. I pulled the jumper off to shut it down. Went back out fan still running stove ice cold f  pot was empty... Is this considered CSS. How is this fixed?




You could have a stuck low limit switch.

ETA: That is a bad TC or control board in the case of a Quad.


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## Mt Bob (Apr 8, 2014)

My money is on a bad cap. or triac in the board,for fan problem.


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## Burd (Apr 8, 2014)

bob bare said:


> My money is on a bad cap. or triac in the board,for fan problem.


What's a bad cap


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## Burd (Apr 8, 2014)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> You could have a stuck low limit switch.
> 
> ETA: That is a bad TC or control board in the case of a Quad.


What's a TC


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## Mt Bob (Apr 8, 2014)

thermocouple.


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## BrotherBart (Apr 8, 2014)

Burd said:


> What's a bad cap



Capacitor.


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## Mt Bob (Apr 8, 2014)

bob bare said:


> thermocouple.


 Guess I should have said-TC-themocouple.


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## Burd (Apr 8, 2014)

Well I came home and started the stove augger filed the pot with two pushes of reset and the stove  fired right up.  
It a bummer that the fan won't shut down. Can the board be fixed... I now how to soider?
How long does it take after shut down for the fan to turn off?

I really want to thank you guys for all the input


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## Burd (Apr 8, 2014)

bob bare said:


> Guess I should have said-TC-themocouple.


Sorry I m New to the pellet stove world


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## Burd (Apr 8, 2014)

BrotherBart said:


> Capacitor.


Does anyone know witch one it is.
Brother Bart  it's been awhile. I went through 4 1/4 cords this year.rough winter for everyone


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## Mt Bob (Apr 8, 2014)

Normal shut down(combustion fan) can be 14 to 60 minutes,depending on stove model and conditions.First thing to do is check tc-see if the indicator lights work properly during startup.Try unplugging tc when stove is cold.If you have worked on pc boards before,replace all electrolytic capacitors and triacs.If you have not I do not reccomend.Also when parts are upgraded(your board) they generally perform much better,as problems have been addressed.


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## Mt Bob (Apr 8, 2014)

http://www.pelletblowers.com/bbandp/product_info.php/products_id/54 http://www.api-assembled.com/support/pellet stove repair.htm


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## Burd (Apr 8, 2014)

bob bare said:


> Normal shut down(combustion fan) can be 14 to 60 minutes,depending on stove model and conditions.First thing to do is check tc-see if the indicator lights work properly during startup.Try unplugging tc when stove is cold.If you have worked on pc boards before,replace all electrolytic capacitors and triacs.If you have not I do not reccomend.Also when parts are upgraded(your board) they generally perform much better,as problems have been addressed.


I figured as much.
The stove was in shutdown for 90min I went and disconnected TC nothing happened...


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## Burd (Apr 8, 2014)

Could someone tell me a good web site I can finding the updated control box.  I like cheap chit that works.  This stove is nothing more then a supplement heater In the basement.. 
Should the exshaust fan be updated?


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## Mt Bob (Apr 8, 2014)

http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.com/Control-Box-for-Quadrafire-p/srv7000-704.htm


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## DMKNLD (Apr 8, 2014)

Stove World has one on-line for about $200. Picture shows 7000-205 model but web site states they have been replaced with the 7000-704. I'm guessing this is the newest control box upgrade.

http://www.stoveworld.com/Quadrafire-Control-Box-3-Speed-SRV7000-205-p/2rpala569.htm


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## Burd (Apr 8, 2014)

DMKNLD said:


> Stove World has one on-line for about $200. Picture shows 7000-205 model but web site states they have been replaced with the 7000-704. I'm guessing this is the newest control box upgrade.
> 
> http://www.stoveworld.com/Quadrafire-Control-Box-3-Speed-SRV7000-205-p/2rpala569.htm


There out of stock. I was looking earlier today


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## CaptSpiff (Apr 9, 2014)

Burd said:


> There out of stock. I was looking earlier today



Hi Burd,
I don't want this to come off sounding mean, but....

Welcome to the Wacky World of Pellet Stoves.

I still think you got a good buy at 500, considering new ones are selling at 3K. But repair parts can be shocking, and I always budget 300-500 for parts when I buy used. I walked from a lot of c-list stuff for that reason. 

If you are willing to run this like an old-style Pellet Stove (on manual) then the continuous Combustion fan issue may not matter. Just make sure to "Verify by test" all the safety shutdown features (ie the ones that stop feeding the fuel).

Good luck. These things ain't simple like a wood stove.


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## Burd (May 7, 2014)

Well today I pulled the trigger on the the new control box from Stove World should be here with in a couple of days.
?s Do I have to worry about the junction box not matching the control box?
Once I install the box should I fire it up wright away. Should I just plug it in and make sure the convection blower turn off before I fire it up?
I don 't want to screw up the control box so any Info before I install it would be appreciated


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## DMKNLD (May 7, 2014)

It should be 'plug and play' compatible, Burd. Make sure your stove is unplugged before you install the new box. I assume you still have your thermostat jumpered? I would un-jumper the t-stat to check if the combustion fan comes on when you plug the stove back in, then see if the fan cycles off after a few minutes, which should tell you that your previous fan problem was indeed control box related. Assuming your combustion fan cycles off, unplug the stove again. Put the stove heat adjustment switch on high and make sure your thermo-couple sensor is fully seated in the ceramic cover and protruding out straight over the fire pot by about an inch or so. 

If the hopper / auger chute is empty put a handful of pellets in the fire pot before you fire it up, which should give you a long enough fuel burn to get the auger to refill and start dropping pellets without having to keep hitting the reset button. If your hopper and auger chute are full you should just have to jumper the t-stat, then plug the stove back in again and see if it goes through the full cycle from call-for-heat light coming on and combustion fan start-up to pellet ignition. The control box should have a green light come on once your thermo-couple senses pellet ignition, then the green light will turn to red when the fire pot gets to 200 degrees and the auger should start the normal pellet feed. The convection fan should kick in after 10 - 15 mins when the fire pot gets to 600 degrees. Check for normal flame height and color (4 - 6" above the burn pot and brisk / yellow-white colored flame), and you should be good to go  

Let us know what happens.


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## Burd (May 8, 2014)

I'll keep you up-to-date....I'm keeping my fingers crossed.


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## Burd (May 8, 2014)

Well the new box came in today. Combustion fan didn't shut down once I powered it up.
 I waited 15min? Fan seems to be running slow. I fired the stove up box is on setting 4 on the high. Things looked great until I switched it to low. It basically went out. I then pulled the thermostat jumper to shut it down. Everything worked even the combustion fan shut down. I then pulled the box and put t it on setting 5. I had a better burn in the pot and on low it stayed light. 
So why won't the fan shut down on power up.


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## Burd (May 9, 2014)

Anyone have any a clue why it won't shut down on power up


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## SmokeyTheBear (May 9, 2014)

Burd said:


> Anyone have any a clue why it won't shut down on power up



Maybe you didn't wait long enough.   It is by time and controlled by the controller.  The trigger is appearance of power to the controller so anything that causes power to be removed and then applied would act as a  reset for the timer.  

The issue you had when going from high to low burn is because you likely didn't set your flame height properly when in high burn which is the only place where it can be properly set.


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## DMKNLD (May 9, 2014)

Burd said:


> Anyone have any a clue why it won't shut down on power up


Burd,

I just timed my combustion fan cycle and it was 18 mins before it turned off, so as Smokey said you may need to wait longer,


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## Burd (May 9, 2014)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> Maybe you didn't wait long enough.   It is by time and controlled by the controller.  The trigger is appearance of power to the controller so anything that causes power to be removed and then applied would act as a  reset for the timer.
> 
> The issue you had when going from high to low burn is because you likely didn't set your flame height properly when in high burn which is the only place where it can be properly set.


 
Smokey
Thanks for getting back to me. Your stating that you can ajust the flame? Do I set the flame through the control box.
If so can you move the controler settings with the power on? as of now I'm on setting 5.(10%)
(I hope that Im not missing something). Is there any other way to ajust the flame? I really wont know if this is the proper setting intill I really start burning once I install it in the basement.


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## Burd (May 9, 2014)

DMKNLD said:


> Burd,
> 
> I just timed my combustion fan cycle and it was 18 mins before it turned off, so as Smokey said you may need to wait longer,






DMKNLD said:


> Burd,
> 
> I just timed my combustion fan cycle and it was 18 mins before it turned off, so as Smokey said you may need to wait longer,


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## Burd (May 9, 2014)

what can I say most likely I was a little impatient. I really wanted to fire the stove up to make sure things are working. As of now everything is working including the vacuum.
I'll go ahead and test the cycle when I get home from work..II honestly feel that the stove project is complete it really is a nice looking stove..I only invested $700 and a little bit of time.
Now it's time to remodel the basement and find a nice home for the stove..I'll make sure I post pictures..
thank you for all the wonderful knowledge


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## DMKNLD (May 9, 2014)

Burd said:


> Smokey
> Thanks for getting back to me. Your stating that you can ajust the flame? Do I set the flame through the control box.
> If so can you move the controler settings with the power on? as of now I'm on setting 5.(10%)
> (I hope that Im not missing something). Is there any other way to ajust the flame? I really wont know if this is the proper setting intill I really start burning once I install it in the basement.



The flame adjustment is set by increasing or decreasing the pellet feed rate. There is a flat plate inside the hopper that has a screw and an adjustable slider plate you can open or close to adjust the pellet feed. The longer the avg length of pellet you're burning the more open that plate needs to be to prevent pellet 'bridging' at the bottom of the auger. I tinker with mine regularly to get the fuel / air mixture right.

For cold spells I often open it 'WAO' (wide azz open) to increase the pellet feed rate, and thus more heat output. To compensate for the increase in pellet feed I partially restrict the door air wash, which is on the top edge of my door, with a section of fiberglass stove gasket rope. This pulls more air through the fire pot and gives me a lower flame but hotter and more intense pellet burn. I get more loose fly ash blowing out of the firepot, which keeps ash clinkers from building up in the bottom of the pot, but it does increase the amt of fly ash that builds up in the back corners of the fire box and on the glass, but for me the increased heat output is worth the bit of extra cleaning. As always, "your results may vary", but you can try it on your Castile and see how it works. Good effort sticking with it - you got a great deal on that stove


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## Burd (May 9, 2014)

DMKNLD said:


> The flame adjustment is set by increasing or decreasing the pellet feed rate. There is a flat plate inside the hopper that has a screw and an adjustable slider plate you can open or close to adjust the pellet feed. The longer the avg length of pellet you're burning the more open that plate needs to be to prevent pellet 'bridging' at the bottom of the auger. I tinker with mine regularly to get the fuel / air mixture right.



For cold spells I often open it 'WAO' (wide azz open) to increase the pellet feed rate, and thus more heat output. To compensate for the increase in pellet feed I partially restrict the door air wash, which is on the top edge of my door, with a section of fiberglass stove gasket rope. This pulls more air through the fire pot and gives me a lower flame but hotter and more intense pellet burn. I get more loose fly ash blowing out of the firepot, which keeps ash clinkers from building up in the bottom of the pot, but it does increase the amt of fly ash that builds up in the back corners of the fire box and on the glass, but for me the increased heat output is worth the bit of extra cleaning. As always, "your results may vary", but you can try it on your Castile and see how it works. Good effort sticking with it - you got a great deal on that stove [/quote]


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## Burd (May 9, 2014)

Sorry about the post.
Well the controller is working I didn't exactly time It after power up. I had to cut the grass..

My feed rate is wide opens and it's a little stiff from sitting I'll have to take it apart and clean it up.
What kind of temperature change do you get when you play with the air wash can you get it up to 100 degrees difference.  Will this slow down the exhaust fan? 
Once I get the stove installed in the basement I'll have a chance to play with the feed rate/pellets.


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## DMKNLD (May 10, 2014)

I don't have an IR thermometer to definitively measure it, but several Quad modifications designed and championed by tj and B-mod on this message board have significantly increased my Castile's heat output.   https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/quadrafire-castile-experiment.58216/ 

Even in my drafty circa 1870's New England farmhouse with no wall insulation, I can keep the downstairs and upstairs bedrooms in the low to mid 70's for room temps on the medium heat setting. I typically only need to run it on high when it is below zero and / or windy out.

Between covering the air wash, wiring the convection blower to run on high at all the temp settings, replacing the #2 snap disc with one that has a lower set temp, and putting springs in the heat exchanger tubes to modify the convection blowers laminar air flow to increase the heat transfer, I have gotten more heat for the same or less amount of pellets in each of the last 3 burn seasons. 

As anecdotal proof, I burned the same # of bags of 100% softwood pellets this past winter as I did the season prior, despite a 20% increase in heating days in our region, where most folks burned 1-2 tons more than the prior burn season. I was certainly more attentive to regular stove cleaning, that no doubt improved my heat output as well.

I get a change in the airflow sound when my air wash is closed off - it makes more of a blow torch type sound, but it doesn't seem to slow the exhaust fan down. I'm at the upper end of my EVL w/ my venting system so this seems to help my stove 'breath' better besides burning hotter. In the first season I burned pellets the convection fan would regularly cycle on and off as the firebox temperature would rise and fall, but now it runs continuously, so it is definitely burning more efficiently.


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## SmokeyTheBear (May 10, 2014)

Burd the flame height adjustment is talked about in the manual.   

I forget the page number but you should have that manual and at the risk of being scolded by Brother Bart again I always recommend reading the fine manuals.

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner but I don't spend much time online these days.  Been playing with a number of new toys and getting my audio, photographic, and video media collection servable from my computer system (one of the new toys).  Lots of files, very little time, and now outside lawn and garden work to do.


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## Burd (Oct 28, 2014)

Sorry for the delay. In the last couple of weeks I install the Castile in the basement.
I only had one spot in the basement where the stove would be the most efficient...I know you guy love pictures...


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## Burd (Oct 28, 2014)

As you can see this isn't going to be easy.
I ended up removing the window and replacing it with glass block..
The concrete pad was stained and sealed. The water line was moved lower with a home made
access panel


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## Burd (Oct 28, 2014)

This project was a lot of work but we'll worth the effort.. I know that the exhaust pipe is on an angle I couldn't jeopardize the structure of the foundation with the window being so close..
please take note where I have the thermostat


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## tjnamtiw (Oct 28, 2014)

The thermostat is way too close IMHO.
Great idea on the glass block window!  I would never have thought of that!  I also like the way you tidied up the water line.  Well done!


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## DMKNLD (Oct 28, 2014)

Burd said:


> This project was a lot of work but we'll worth the effort.. I know that the exhaust pipe is on an angle I couldn't jeopardize the structure of the foundation with the window being so close..
> please take note where I have the thermostat



See the Private Message I sent you, Burd.


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## Burd (Oct 28, 2014)

tjnamtiw said:


> The thermostat is way too close IMHO.
> Great idea on the glass block window!  I would never have thought of that!  I also like the way you tidied up the water line.  Well done!


 I though the samething on the thermostat but then I go to thinking on how hot air pushes the cold air down.
I once layed on the steps while burning my wood stove and I could feel the cold air( a big temperture change) coming down the steps.
So I'm thinking if I could condition the air thats coming down the steps to the temperture of the thermostate the house would stay much warmer.
The thermostat will be trial and error


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