# Can you fix a chainsaw chain with a "stuck" link?



## tradergordo (Dec 2, 2006)

I was cutting a pallet and hit a nail, which caused the chain to jump off the bar (I'll be more careful in the future).  Maybe the chain was too loose.  Don't know.  But anyway when sharpening it, I noticed 3 damaged links (all of them just behind 3 consecutive cutters), the issue is that they no longer pivot like they are pinched.  I put the chain in a vice, added some lubricating oil to the problem joint, and worked it by tapping up and down with a hammer - the links do move when you force it, but they are real tight, and working them back and forth like that did not seem to help.  Is this chain worthless or is there some way to fix?

Attached is a picture of the problem chain


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## GVA (Dec 2, 2006)

tradergordo said:
			
		

> I was cutting a pallet and hit a nail, which caused the chain to jump off the bar (I'll be more careful in the future).  Maybe the chain was too loose.  Don't know.  But anyway when sharpening it, I noticed 3 damaged links (all of them just behind 3 consecutive cutters), the issue is that they no longer pivot like they are pinched.  I put the chain in a vice, added some lubricating oil to the problem joint, and worked it by tapping up and down with a hammer - the links do move when you force it, but they are real tight, and working them back and forth like that did not seem to help.  Is this chain worthless or is there some way to fix?
> 
> Attached is a picture of the problem chain


You could try to hit the pin with that hammer to loosen the links that are jammed against the bushing although on a chainsaw chain......  I wouldn't recommend this as the chain could break and possibly cause damage to you...  I would rather you get a new chain.


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## nshif (Dec 2, 2006)

A good saw shop could remove that section of chain and replace it although then youd have new cutters on part of the chain. Plus it would probably cost as much as a new chain


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## Dave_1 (Dec 2, 2006)

TG,

Get a drift pin punch & knock out the pins using a nut as a back stop.

Toss the 3 badlinks, cutters, & save the rest of the chain for future mishaps. 

Go to Walmart & get their Oregon *two * chains special. 

Last time I bought their special it was only $3 more than what a single chain sold for. ;-) 

Dave


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## GVA (Dec 2, 2006)

Dave_1 said:
			
		

> TG,
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> Get a drift pin punch & knock out the pins using a nut as a back stop.
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> ...


To make it easier grind the pins down on one side to the link side plate and then use the punch, I always hated bending the tip on a good punch. :cheese:


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## Dave_1 (Dec 2, 2006)

GVA said:
			
		

> Dave_1 said:
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Saayyy, yours wouldn't be a HF punch now *wood *it? :cheese: 

TG,

 just get a concrete nail, an 8 lb maul, & then whack it a good one! ;-) 

Dave


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## GVA (Dec 3, 2006)

Dave_1 said:
			
		

> GVA said:
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No I said a good punch :cheese: 
On chains I usually use a chain break but it is best to grind the pins down first otherwise the links can get spread open a bit throwing them out of whack for the master link.........(i'm not talking about chains for chainsaws here)


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## ourhouse (Dec 3, 2006)

If you can move them by hand than run it and you should be allright. If you don't feel  safe junk it and get a new one.


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## BrotherBart (Dec 3, 2006)

earthharvester said:
			
		

> If you can move them by hand than run it and you should be allright. If you don't feel  safe junk it and get a new one.



I agree with the last half of that statement. Junk it. Don't even think about running something at that kind of RPM with your head and hands at stake with a binding problem.

Any body part you pick is worth more than twenty bucks. Much more.


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## sedanman (Dec 3, 2006)

STOP! Take a real close look at the drive links, you will see that the drive link near the "stuck" link has a few small burrs that are caused by the link hitting the chain catcher, or skipping over the drive clutch, This is common with a thrown chain. carefully file or grind the burrs down and you will be fine. I am a certified Stihl technician, this is common practice and will not create a safety hazard. You may have to use a little force to get the link to move, a little force is ok. The chain should be able to be advanced through the guide bar with almost no effort, if it'd tight there are still burrs on drive links. Using the engine of the saw to work these burrs down will acellerate wear on the bar.


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## sedanman (Dec 3, 2006)

I can see burrs on the drive links in the picture. You should be able to see and feel them. My guess is that 15 or so links will have some nicks/burrs.


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## ourhouse (Dec 3, 2006)

BrotherBart said:
			
		

> earthharvester said:
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Amen BB


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## Eric Johnson (Dec 3, 2006)

I'm torn on this one. Essentially I agree with BB, but being a piker myself, I'd give sedaman's suggestion a try. I'd do what he says, then put the chain on the bar and run it for a couple of minutes. If the stiff link doesn't loosen up (it should), then toss the chain and get a new one. I wouldn't put any more effort than that into it, however, 'cause for $10 you could be back in business with a brand new chain.

The moral of the story is don't cut pallets up with a chain saw and if you do, use an old chain.


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## tradergordo (Dec 3, 2006)

Eric Johnson said:
			
		

> I'm torn on this one. Essentially I agree with BB, but being a piker myself, I'd give sedaman's suggestion a try. I'd do what he says, then put the chain on the bar and run it for a couple of minutes. If the stiff link doesn't loosen up (it should), then toss the chain and get a new one. I wouldn't put any more effort than that into it, however, 'cause for $10 you could be back in business with a brand new chain.
> 
> The moral of the story is don't cut pallets up with a chain saw and if you do, use an old chain.



Heh, maybe this will become my "pallet chain".  I will see if I can remove any burrs - hopefully that works, otherwise I'll scrap it.  The saw actually came with 3 chains, so its not like I depend on this one anyway, I have been using all 3 in a rotation.


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