# Log Splitters:  What brand do you have?, & how do you like it?



## Mr_Super-Hunky (May 30, 2007)

Since I am getting ready to purchase my first new stove, there is one other area that I don't know anything about; that being log splitters.

I am wanting to see what many of you are using (brands), along with how well you like your current model.  Is there any type/brand to stay clear of?

We will be splitting mostly soft pine, but occasionally (if were lucky), there is a possibility of some oak; although it is very hard to find here.

I've seen log spliters antwhere from $199.00 (foot pump) car jack type models to $1,300 harbour freight Robin gas engine 24-30 ton models.  (NOTE:, I am usually very sorry with my purchases from Harbour Freight but it seems that their 30 ton log splitter may be an exception?)

Are their any less expensive models that work well??  $300-$500 ?, or do I really need to step up and pay over a grand for a good one?

As always, your input is much appreciated.


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## BrotherBart (May 30, 2007)

I use a Duerr twenty ton hydraulic vertical/horizontal splitter that I bought at Lowes for $800 in 1988. At the time it was sold under the MTD brand name. It has handled everything I have thrown at it for twenty years. Usually five to six cords of oak a year. I recently replaced the engine and the Lovejoy coupler on it for a total cost of $180.  I got the engine at HF and love it.

On the subject of hardwood vs. softwood and splitting I would rather hand split a straight grain forest grown red oak any day than a big white pine that seems to twist as it grows, all the way up. They can be like trying to split a rubber tree.


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## MrGriz (May 30, 2007)

I have a North Star 20 ton hydraulic splitter that I bought from Northern Tool and Equipment for just under $1,000.00 about two years ago.  I've split quite a bit of wood over the last two years and have nothing really bad to say about the splitter.

It splits horizontally and vertically and has a nice log cradle that comes in very handy when it's in the horizontal position.  The Honda engine starts flawlessly and runs very well.  The cycle time could be a little quicker, but I'm the type that wants minute rice to be done in 30 seconds.  The auto return and automatic throttle control are also very nice features.  One thing it didn't come with was a filter for the hydraulic fluid, but that should be an easy fix.

I haven't found a chunk of wood that would stop it yet and I've thrown a wide variety of hardwood and softwood through it, including some gnarly twisted pieces.  The wedge is quite narrow for about the first inch or two and then flares out.  I think this narrow design helps it to "slice" through some of the really twisted and nasty stuff.  I also like the way the wedge rides along the rail on this model.  This one wraps around the top of the I beam.  Some that I looked at rode in a channel that was on top of the beam on each side.  To me, that looked like a great spot for all kinds of debris to build up and possibly jam the wedge.

Overall I'm very pleased with this splitter and would recommend it.


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## velvetfoot (May 30, 2007)

Harbor Freight 30 ton, model 91840, bought last fall.  Haven't used it much yet.  Will use it soon.


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## kellog (May 30, 2007)

Homemade. I like it. See it at post 17 in the following link.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/7131/P15/


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## Mr_Super-Hunky (May 31, 2007)

Kellog:

That is a very kewl setup you have.  It actually has me thinking of trying to use two existing tools I already have.

First, I have a Bosch "Brute" full size jackhammer.  I am wondering if I can somehow mount it on its side and put a log between the bit and a solid piece of metal. Then, using some type of a scroll drive (like on a vice), turn the scroll while the jackhammer is delivering its blows until the wood splits!.

I also have several various size electric motors (from swimming pool pumps) ranging from 3/4-2hp.  I could possibly hook up a wheel pully to the shaft (as you've done), and make some type of unit like you did.

what do you think about either method?


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## kellog (May 31, 2007)

Mr Super Hunky,

I would expect you could do what you are talking about with the bosch jack hammer.  My splitter is simply a mechanical jack hammer on its side driven by a screw.  You would just need a separate motor to drive the screw. I suspect it would be effective.  You could check it out by manually splitting a round with your jack hammer.


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## Mr_Super-Hunky (May 31, 2007)

Thats a great idea Kellog!, I'll try that and let you know how it works. I first have to sharpen the bit a little.


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## Gooserider (Jun 2, 2007)

There have been threads in the past discussing using jackhammers to split wood, the concensus wasn't favorable, but I think it was mostly theoretical, I'm not sure if anyone actually tried it.  The big issue seemed to be the question of dealing with the weight of the hammer, and supporting it.  If you built some sort of frame to hold it, that might not be to bad, and if you went vertical I'd think the hammer's own weight would probably drive it in pretty well.

The other big issue was air consumption, as I think the other discussion was using a pneumatic hammer, and electric model wouldn't have that problem.

If you have a good supply of electric motors, I'd actually think your idea of making an electrically driven hydraulic unit might be best, those that have them seem to like them.  I certainly would say that if you are going for a hydraulic splitter you should get a powered unit, don't waste time on manual power...

Of course I should talk, I still use a mix of an 8lb maul and wedges and a 12 lb monster-maul = Big savings on health club dues...

Gooserider


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## kellog (Jun 2, 2007)

Mr Super Hunky,

Just for kicks I tried to manually push a log into the wedge on my splitter to see if I could split it. No way. The idea was to simulate you manually splitting a piece of wood with your jack hammer. 

You may need something solid to back up the jackhammer to develop the force required.  That said I don’t know if the structure of the jack hammer is up to the forces that will be developed. I have never seen a Bosch jack hammer. As you can see from the photos, the mechanism in my splitter is built like a brick *hit house (really solid).  I would start with small wood (2x4?) and work your way up.


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## Fubar411 (Jun 2, 2007)

Do any of the Troy Bilt or non-HF splitters have auto-reverse?  I rented a big splitter, but having to reverse slowed me down.


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## Mr_Super-Hunky (Jun 2, 2007)

Kellog:

You are probably right on the construction of the jack hammer not being able to take *tons* of force applied to it.

While I can take my 80lb jackhammer (electric Bosch Brute), using the spade bit and actually split a log, it takes a little while to get through and the lifting gets old real quick!.

Do you think the time and effort it takes to build a homemade unit is worth it compared to say the Harbour Freight $1,200.00 30 ton splitter?,

I do have all the tools (Lincoln powermig welder, metal band saw, and even a few pool motors 3/4-2hp)  ?.


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## Bones (Jun 3, 2007)

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/6892/


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## kellog (Jun 3, 2007)

Mr Super Hunky,

You have to have a real desire to build machinery to want to make an impact splitter from scratch. I developed mine over many, many years.  I made a concept prototype and a couple of “production” machines before I got to what you see in the photos. Also I used a wide variety of machine tools in the process (millers, lathers, grinders, saws, welders, etc.). This is not a weekend task.  

It would be easier to build a hydraulic machine because you would be basically assembling existing proven components but there is still some design work and subtleties that you might miss on the first try and have to “re-design”.

I believe buying a good splitter (the cheapest ones are not the best) is the way to go unless you really, really want to build one.  Don’t build one just to “save money”. But if you do want to build one, it is a very fun and satisfying job. This forum can offer you a vast array of advice and guidance.


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## Mr_Super-Hunky (Jun 4, 2007)

Thanks for the tip Kellog.  I would really like to build some monster splitter some day that not only splits the logs, but cuts them to length, stacks them, seasons then in three days and even replenishes the "pile" when it starts to get low!.  However, I do have an incredible amount on my plate right now so I may go the $$$ route for now.   Your machine looks really nice and its obvious you have spent a lot of time constructing it.


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## Jay H (Jun 4, 2007)

Fubar411 said:
			
		

> Do any of the Troy Bilt or non-HF splitters have auto-reverse?  I rented a big splitter, but having to reverse slowed me down.



MY TB/MTD one doesn't have an auto reverse..  

I wish mine had an auto-load  or perhaps an auto-buck... 

Jay


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## ourhouse (Jun 4, 2007)

I have a 18 ton home built wich is good and am I using MaLoggers TW-5 Timber Wolf which is the best splitter I have ever used. With the log lift my back never hurts.


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## got wood? (Jun 4, 2007)

three buddies and I purchased the HF 24 ton splitter and I've got mixed feelings about this unit.  The motor (a subaru) is strong and not too loud.  The assembly of the splitter went pretty well, but bleeding the hydraulic system took a bit of time.  Operating in horizontal mode is not what this is made for...I am convinced it's only for transporting the unit, vertical is what it's designed for.  The trailer package is what we've taken issue with.  HF would not issue a certificate of origin for us despite all the calls asking for it.  In Massachusetts we need this to register the trailer.  We had to sell it from one of us to the other (thereby creating a cert of origin) to legally have it on the road...a work around, but that's done now (lousy HF customer service).  Secondly the low speed gear (tires, etc) have created another problem...a simple 30 mile drive over roads below 40MPH was enough to create a crack or fissure in the hydraulic fluid tank...now it leaks slowly...all the time.  One long day of splitting can leak ~2.5 gallons of fluid.  Lastly the I-beam it's mounted on is a bit undersized for the power of the pump/motor...it's already twisted just a bit...which has not created a problem, but is annoying that it would be designed in such a way that it could damage itself.  Oh and the pump is slow...cycle time is definitely slow...not too bad if you're one person loading and stacking, but if you've got two or more people feeding this thing, they will be waiting around for the splitter...


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## Mr_Super-Hunky (Jun 5, 2007)

BTW, I saw a "MTD" brand 27 ton log splitter at home depot today for $1,299.  Anyone familiar with this splitter?.  It seemed like a good unit and had a Honda 5.5hp motor as well.


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## Jay H (Jun 5, 2007)

Mr_Super-Hunky said:
			
		

> BTW, I saw a "MTD" brand 27 ton log splitter at home depot today for $1,299.  Anyone familiar with this splitter?.  It seemed like a good unit and had a Honda 5.5hp motor as well.



That must be the same one that I have... I bought mine from Lowes listed as "Troy Bilt" but it has the Honda 5.5HP motor on it which is great so far. Not too loud, easy to start..  

It is on Troy Bilt's website as the LS27, I don't think it is the "deluxe" as it doesn't have the taillights (nor do I need them in NJ). 

I have a thread here about them if you want to check them out...

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/7739/

Jay


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## Jags (Jun 5, 2007)

Mr. S-H,  if you do have it in your head to make a home built, be aware that depending on resources, your costs can get right up there with a purchased unit.  That being said, if you have the equipment, experience, and materials, you can build a splitter the way that YOU want it.

I have approx $600 invested in mine, but you would be hard pressed to find a comparable unit for under $2500.  With the electric start, log lift, road speed axle and 5" ram, it is a machine made for years of service and is basically unstoppable.  Everything is built VERY heavy, from the I beam being a 6x9" heavy web, to the log lift being made from 1/4"  thick 2" square tube.  The design is what I wanted in a log splitter, and that can be hard to achive with purchased ones, unless you like handing over dead presidents.


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## myzamboni (Jun 6, 2007)

Here's an interesting one  (sorry if it is a repost)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRPiCgoNm4g


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## Mr_Super-Hunky (Jun 6, 2007)

Holy smokes!!.

Since I will be splitting mostly soft woods  (pine, fir, aspen), I was all set to purchase the Northern Tool 20 ton 5.5 hp splitter for $999.00, that is until I hit the "calculate shipping" button!.    An addl $560.00 for shipping!!  (someones making some money!!).  So that may rule out that unit.

There is a 24 ton Harbour Freight unit on ebay for around 1,099.00 with only $89.00 shipping flat rate anywhere in U.S (48).  That seems to be the best "deal", but I don't think I have ever purchased anything from Harbour Freight without something breaking.   hmmm, 

Does anyone know if anyone else makes the same 20 ton unit that Northern tool sells?.  (MTD, Troy Built, Huskee, Sears, others?)  Maybe I can find the same unit without the nearly $600 shipping punch in the mouth!!


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## BrotherBart (Jun 6, 2007)

Go out to Sears on Hwy. 89 and get a 27 ton 6.5 horse for $1,199.99 on sale right now and tow the sucker home and get to work!


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## n1st (Jun 9, 2007)

I have the Ryobi 4 ton electric.  I know, I know, but before you laugh, check out the reviews at the link below.  How many splitters have a following like that?  It's certainly not for a commercial wood seller, but for the homeowner, it may be just about ideal.  So far with my limited use of it, I think it's terrific, small, and inexpensive.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100348561


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## Gooserider (Jun 9, 2007)

Can the Ryobi operate vertically?  How does it drive the wedge - is it hydraulic or some sort of screw drive?

Gooserider


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## n1st (Jun 9, 2007)

Yes, it's hydraulic.  It's intended to work horz.  It's nice and quiet and very green... the motor only runs a few seconds during the split.  It's as good inside (cellar, garage, etc.) as it is outside.


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## Mr_Super-Hunky (Jun 10, 2007)

I would'nt mind using that Ryobi if it did the job relatively quickly.  The only problem is that I am buying a stove that takes up to 24'' logs and the Ryobi can only do 18- 20 tops..  I don't want any wasted log space inside the stove so I will have to get or make something that will handle a 24'' log.

I've seen a 12 ton hydraulic splitter that handles 24'' logs but it hooked up to an air compressor rather than using a gas engine or an electric one.

You would have to supply the air compressor (many already have one), and you get a 12 ton splitter that handles large log lenghts for under $350.00.  Here is a link to the place  www.logsplitter.com

Has anyone used one of these before?


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## Gooserider (Jun 10, 2007)

Mr_Super-Hunky said:
			
		

> I would'nt mind using that Ryobi if it did the job relatively quickly.  The only problem is that I am buying a stove that takes up to 24'' logs and the Ryobi can only do 18- 20 tops..  I don't want any wasted log space inside the stove so I will have to get or make something that will handle a 24'' log.
> 
> I've seen a 12 ton hydraulic splitter that handles 24'' logs but it hooked up to an air compressor rather than using a gas engine or an electric one.
> 
> ...



I haven't used one, and it might well be OK, but I have my doubts...  

The specs say 90PSI / 4CFM, but at what useage rate?  

I would probably want a compressor with at least twice that CFM rating @ 90PSI or better, which is a fairly sizeable unit.  

They don't give any indication of what the cycle time on the unit is.  

The picture shows it being used vertically, but to do so you'd have to pick the log up to put it on the ram, and then balance it as the ram lifts the log into the wedge - something's wrong with that picture.

I think there are problems in general with the designs that have a stationary wedge and a moving ram - I don't like the idea of moving the log in order to split it, it seems less stable to me.

The company claims to only sell good products, but I noticed they sell the "Super Spear" which is about as big of a splitting gimmick as I've ever seen...

In general air compressors are rather innefficient, I think it's just adding an extra step of inefficiency, it would be far better to have a direct electric drive.

Gooserider


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## Mr_Super-Hunky (Jun 10, 2007)

Hi Goose:

Thanks for the "heads up". You mention many valid points.

BTW, I was just going through our moving boxes and remembered that I have an almost brand new 5.5 hp Honda engine. It has less than 1/2 hour on it!!. v The reason I have it is because I purchased a new pressure washer from cosco a couple years ago and the pump (not gas engine) seized up due to very hard minerals that were left in the pump and never cleaned out.

As a result, I am left with a non-working pressure washer (due to a bad pump) that has a perfectly good/ brand new Honda engine.  If this is not a good excuse to build a log splitter, I don't know what is.

I think I can build somewhere around a 27 ton splitter based on the engine power.

Has anyone done this or can give me some pointers?


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## karl (Jun 10, 2007)

I guess physics has changed since I was in high school.  Either that or these people just make of the tons of force their splitters have.  Here's an example.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200326296_200326296


Northern Tool  NorthStar 37 ton splitter.

Max psi  3500      This seems a little high to me, but it's their number and I'll use it.

37 tons rated force.   No way it generates this much force.

34.3 tons rated force.   Well, if they are really gettting this thing up to 3500 psi then its true.

5"x24" ram.

Ok here's the math

pie*r squared

5/2=2.5  Thats the radius of the circle

2.5x2.5=6.25   The the r squared

3.14 thats pie

3500 psi


Here we go

2.5*2.5*3.14*3500=68687.5

68687.5/2000=34.3  tons

So this 37 ton splitter can only produce a 34.3 tons of force at the maximum pressure of 3500psi.  Where do they get the 37 tons?


Let's get a little more realistice here and use 2500psi.  You get 24.3 tons


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## Gooserider (Jun 10, 2007)

Purely speculating here, but my understanding is that the hydraulic cylinder actually only puts out as much force as it "needs" to expand, so most of the time the actual force would be far lower than your math would suggest. 

Given what I know about how stuff is rated, I would expect that the 37 tons is probably the "MAXIMUM Operating Force the cylinder is rated to handle - basic design rules say that your powered device must be able to handle more than the power supply can send it in order to avoid accidentally damaging the cylinder.

The 3500 PSI is probably the pressure that the pump is set to hit as it's maximum full load pressure, with some kind of relief valve to keep it from going over.  So it looks like your 34.3 ton max "continuous force" is about right, but you are probably also right about it usually working more around 25 tons since that seems to be all that it takes to make most logs cry uncle.  

So at least this example, I'd say the numbers are fairly reasonable - there may be other reasons not to like the unit, but the numbers aren't one of them.

Gooserider


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## BrotherBart (Jun 10, 2007)

Mr_Super-Hunky said:
			
		

> The only problem is that I am buying a stove that takes up to 24'' logs and the Ryobi can only do 18- 20 tops..  I don't want any wasted log space inside the stove so I will have to get or make something that will handle a 24'' log.



WARNING! WARNING!

If the manufacturer says a stove will take a 24" log you can bet that it has to have both ends greased and be knocked in there with a hammer. Figure on burning twenty-inch max splits in that stove. Not only will you be able to actually get them into the stove but proper combustion is better achieved with a little room for air to get around the wood. Bigger splits are the answer to longer burns, not longer splits.

If you cut your wood to 24" in advance of getting the stove, I am willing to bet that you are going to end up recutting most of that wood pile after you get the stove. And recutting a few cords of wood just to end up with a pile of two inch chunks ain't no fun. 

I have a 3.5 cubic foot firebox and 18" splits are just perfect for loading that puppy up.


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## Mr_Super-Hunky (Jun 10, 2007)

Thanks for the "WARNING" Brother "B"..

The only thing greener than the wood I have is.....ME!!  ha ha!.

I read that a fully packed and "tight" box is the way to go for longer overnight burns, but I also ASSumed that it also meant tight (as in no wasted air space) on the sides of the logs in the box.

I have been doing a lot of research and looking at log splitters. I still don't really know which way to go on that yet  (electric, vs gas engine); however, I noticed that many electric splitters can only do a 18-20 inch log length max.  Since the Defiant can take 24'' logs, I thought.......well you know.

If you are saying that it is best to use 18-20'' log lengths in a box that can fit 24's, then my options just opened up again to the electric splitters.

The only reason I have no bought one yet is that I have this brand new 5.5 hp Honda engine that I mentioned above just starring at me!.  Also, If I wanted to split 22-24 inch logs, lets just say 22 so they easily fit in the box, my options just went back up to the larger gas splitters.

I am very willing (and able) to make a nice gas splitter using my new Honda engine; hopefully I can find some simple plans somewhere.


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## karl (Jun 10, 2007)

Gooserider,


I was just pointing out that they are selling a 37 ton splitter than will never generate 37 tons of force.  By their own numbers it can only generated 34.3 tons of force.  So why not be honest and call it a 34 ton splitter?  It's not just this one its all of them.


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## BrotherBart (Jun 10, 2007)

Ok SH. Found you a splitter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DaoL-xoTW-0


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## Mr_Super-Hunky (Jun 10, 2007)

Ha, that was really kewl!!.

Actually, I have a lot of "toys" including a John deere 410 backhoe and a Bosch Brute jackhammer.  I often wondered if I could somehow use the strength/weight of the Backhoe (at 17k lbs), or the impact of the jackhamer to split logs?.

That skid steer video was neat, but it took more time just to properly position everything than it was worth!. Also, the hydraulic set up like that can be big $$$.  I think somebody may have gotten bored at work over there!!.

I even thought of a way to have a very heavy weight (say 500lbs), like stacking 5 -100 lb weightlifting plates together and somehow rig it so they slide down a pole (concreted into the ground),  while a blade or two that is welded to them slices through the wood.  A winch could lift the weight back up using a steel line and a pully and simply just place a round in place and let the weight drop on top of it; slicing it into a few sections.

I guess it could also double as a guillotine in a pinch as well!


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## Gooserider (Jun 11, 2007)

My understanding is the general rule is that the optimum length to cut to is about two inches less than the maximum size you can get into the firebox, maybe a bit less.  Given that you say the Defiant is spec'd at 24" your best bet would probably be to shoot for 20-22".  This give some wiggle room when getting wood into the stove, and also allows for the simple fact that chainsaws are NOT precision cutting tools, and you generally are "eyeballing" the cut lengths, so you will be +/- an inch or so regardless - if you try to cut to max length, you'll have a bunch of logs that are overlength and won't fit.

Another factor, and probably the reason why the electrics and other low power splitters are only sized to do 18-20" max rounds is that the effort required to split a round goes up almost logarithmically (pun intended   ) with its length.  This is both because the longer a round is the more likely it is to have a knot or other gnarly bit in it, and also because there is simply more wood holding it together.  (The same happens with increased diameter, but the function is more linear...)  I suspect that the small splitters flat wouldn't be able to handle a 24" round reliably.

Actually I think you have half the job done if you already have a backhoe...  Elk had a nice picture of how he uses his backhoe to deal with elm - the bucket teeth seem to push into it quite nicely, and I'm sure your pine would be even easier to handle.  Alternatively, you already have a hydraulic pump and engine sitting right there, why not tap into the lines to use the pressure to drive a splitter?  I know I've seen units that are designed to use the hydraulic power takeoff on a farm tractor, why not do the same with your backhoe?  If you rigged it right, I bet you could even use the tractor to carry and position the splitter beam for you.  Perhaps you could replace the bucket or maybe one of the arms with a rail and use the already existing cylinder to push a wedge instead of working the articulation?

Gooserider


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## Mr_Super-Hunky (Jun 11, 2007)

Goose:

I also have a Massy ferguson 30e skip loader..(loader and Gannon box).  This particular tractor (as rare as it is), has a pto like most of the compact utility tractors do.  The only problem to using a pto 3 pt driven splitter is that the speed of the pto is not very fast.  I have read that others do not really like the tractor 3 pt mounted splitters due to a very slow cycle time not to mention just having the tractor idle all day and use lots of diesel.  I think they also be a bit unstable or at least "wiggly".

Are there any good electric splitters that are fast?, or must I go with a gas enginje to get more speed?


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## Gooserider (Jun 11, 2007)

Speed and power are a function primarily of pump volume, and cylinder size.  Given the limitations on size of electric motors, plus their expense, you realistically have to go with gas or diesel if you want a large capacity / high power spliter with a short cycle time.  The only other option would be to look at trying to find some other non-hydraulic approach, of which there are several, but few have proven to be as versatile and portable as the hydraulic units.

Gooserider


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## n1st (Jun 11, 2007)

Ok, GooseRider has me worried as I'm close to getting wood for a PE Spectrum which is spec'd at 18" max but I don't have yet.  Can someone please tell me what length it can actually hold?


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## BrotherBart (Jun 11, 2007)

N1ST said:
			
		

> Ok, GooseRider has me worried as I'm close to getting wood for a PE Spectrum which is spec'd at 18" max but I don't have yet.  Can someone please tell me what length it can actually hold?



A good gauge is what Roospike burns in his PE Summit. It is spec'd to take up to 20 inch splits and he burns 18" ones. Virtually the same firebox layout as my Englander 30-NC which is also spec'd for 20" but I burn 18". Burning front to back style 20" splits would be right up against the front of the firebox and besides being hard to load that tight the wood gases coming out of the end of the splits makes a real mess of the glass.

Burning side to side it is virtually impossible to get the last few splits of 20" wood into the firebox. The opening in the front isn't as wide as the inside of the firebox. That and it leaves no airspace around the wood for a good burn.

My bet is that 16" to 17" is going to be ideal for that Spectrum.

Don't believe it? Take a half dozen splits down to the stove store and fill one of'em up.

Of course mine holds as much beer as it does wood:


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