# DIRE WARNING--Your New Electric Generator Is Not Designed or Intended for Continious Opperation



## eernest4 (Dec 14, 2008)

If you got hit in the power outages in new england & just bought a generator, You need to know that it is not designed or intented for continious oppertaion. 

If the engine is not equipped with an automotive type screw on oil filter then chances are you have a splash oiling system & are looking at a 2 or 3 week engine life span on a new engine
under continious opperation.

If you want your generator's engine to outlast the power outage, only run it for 3 hours & let it cool off for 20 or 30 minutes.

Engine Oil, Grade Of,----- Is Determined by cold engine external temp. This is the outside temp
when you start your cold generator engine.

5-W-30           is what you should be using for winter time.

 5w30 is rated for 50 below in sinthetic but only 10 below  5w30 in dinosaur oil.

10w30 is rated for(+45* to +10 *) 10 deg above or higher but may cause engine failure at 5 deg F above zero.

SAE 30 is rated +99 deg to +45 deg and could cause engine failure at 30 deg above zero.

at 30 deg above zero, sae 30 has the consistancy of vasoline jelly & can not lubricate your engine.

at plus 5 deg F, SAE10w 30 has the consistancy of vasoline jelly & cannot lubricate your engine.

at zero deg, 5w30 dinosaur oil has the consistancy of vasoline jelly and cannot lubricate your engine.

at minus 50 deg below zero,sae5w30 Sinthetic has the consistancy of vasoline & can no longer lubricate your engine.

Once the engine has run for 15 minutes, the oil will warm up & lubricate but the wrong grade of oil means that for the first 15 minutes of opperation your engine is essentially running without lubrication & subject to advanced wear & premature failure.

Two types of engine oiling systems.

If you paid under $600.oo for your generator, chances are good that you have a splash oiling system without a positive pressure oil pump. To find out, look for a spin off automotive oil filter on your engine.

If you have a spin off auto type oil filter,you have positive pressure oil pump. If you dont have an oil filter, you are splash oiled.

Splash oiled relies on changes of engine rpm & the proper grade of oil for the outside temps
for adiquate oiling of your engine. This type of engine is designed to run for 2 or 3 hours & then a 30 minute cool down period and may use oil faster than you think. check the oil level every refill of the gasoline tank, usually after about 3 or 4 hours of run time.

These are your cheaper briggs & stratton or tecumpsha engines in the 3 to 6.5 hp range , mounted on your cheaper generators.

They are intended for intermitant running of power tools & lights on the job site & not for 24 /7 usage.

The engines with the positive pressure oil pumps & filters are a better grade, more able to withstand a bit harder usage but are still intended for intermitant usage, designed to run 4 or 5 hours & then a 30 minute cool off.

You can run them for longer but I can't say that you will get maximum lifespan from the engine.

I do know that if you try to run them for 24/7 you will be replacing the engine within 40 days.

I remember back 2004 0r2005, when we had a power outage that lasted for some people over a month, that generator engines started burning out within two weeks, some made it to 3 weeks & others to 4 weeks, depending upon how hard their owners abused & missused
them, so a warning to the wise.

Here I have spelled out the causes of premature engine catastrific engine failure & have told you how to avoid it.

So see what happens to your engine if you dont believe me; and read your owners manuel.


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## ResOps (Dec 14, 2008)

It starts with the quality of the generator! I purchased a Honda EB3000 back in 1984 when a tornado turned the switch out on us for 5 days. The EB is a construction grade designed for continuous service! The Honda ran continuous during that event although not always at full load. Thats the key! In the manual Honda it states for continuous operation only run at 80% load. My generator has endured counltess multi-day outages since the 84 tornado and usually if its a multi-day event it runs during the day and is shut doen at bedtime.
I only use Quaker state synthetic  5W-30 in it for about the last 10 years and I have had to replace the exciter brushes, 2 spark plugs, the fuel filter and the air filter.Not bad for a 24 year old genny. And I would say it was advanced for its time> auto throttle and oil alret were included
I don't imagine these offshore clones will be here in 24 years


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## kinsmanstoves (Dec 14, 2008)

Very good reminder.

Thanks
Eric


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## MCPO (Dec 14, 2008)

IMO, a splash or pressurized system is irrelovent when buying a generator for home emergency use. I never had the need to run my $400 generator set continously.  Usually an hour or so just to have the furnace get the house up to temperature  and the refrigerator cold , it can then be shut down for 3-6 hours at least depending on the outside temperatures.
 I mean folks, this is emergency power. You shouldn`t expect to have the TV and humidifier running at these times. It`s a time for the candles and sweaters and opening the fridge only when necessary.
 You can bet the generator won`t be running 24/7 just to power my puny little pellet stove when I have a fully capable 100K BTU oil furnace that will heat my whole house 10 times faster and then go off for a long time.
Others may have a freezer ,water pump,etc but the same principles apply.
 When I had electric heat my old woodstove in the finished basement eliminated the need for a generator


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## StoveMiser (Dec 14, 2008)

I have had a different experience with my Briggs splash system. I use synthetic oil and change it every 50 hours. I have used the generator hard for several years. Running for days and days during outages, odd jobs on the property and it runs like a champ. Use synthetic oil, change it at the interval in your manual and let em run. Can't imagine shutting down every 3 hours.


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## MCPO (Dec 14, 2008)

I  have a small 1500 watt Coleman / Kawasaki engine generator that`s about 20 yrs old that I still use occasionally.
 I ran the oil in it dry and it froze the engine up , stopped dead in it`s tracks. I brought it too a small engine repair shop just to see if it was salvageable. He charged me $40 to fix it as it was an easy fix to squirt some penetrating oil inside to free the bound up cylinder. He told me to watch the oil level in the future. That was 10 yrs ago and I still use it on occasion. I gotta change the oil one of these years. Go figure.


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## wilbilt (Dec 14, 2008)

My $300 Chinese Champion Chonda clone is splash-lubricated. It also has a low-oil shutdown.

I don't consider it a continuous-run piece of equipment. During outages, I typically will run it for a couple of hours powering the fridge and freezer, then connect it to the well pump so we can flush toilets, take showers, etc. I don't run it all day, or at night. I use it for what it is, and don't expect more from it.

One point to make regarding a new generator, and that is to follow the manufacturer's instructions for break-in. Typically, these will include running it without a load for a specified period of time when first starting it, and and changing the oil after running for a few hours when new. This will insure any metal particles from the break-in period are flushed out and will add years to the life of the engine.

My Champion also specified adjusting the valves after a certain number of hours as well.

Speaking of Hondas, I also have an EB5000 11HP unit in the shed. It had been seriously abused by a contractor before I acquired it. I wore my arm out trying to start it last year, which is why I bought the clone. I need to fix the Honda, as it's always good to have a backup for your backup. A "Plan C", if you will.


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## j00fek (Dec 14, 2008)

im still kickin the coleman 1500 from 1991! needed a new carburator last yr during a brief outage but this yr i didnt have to break er out. before the ice arriaved i did a tune up and put new 5-30 in it


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## MCPO (Dec 14, 2008)

j00fek said:
			
		

> im still kickin the coleman 1500 from 1991! needed a new carburator last yr during a brief outage but this yr i didnt have to break er out. before the ice arriaved i did a tune up and put new 5-30 in it



That`s the brand of mine. (Kawasaki engine)


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## ResOps (Dec 14, 2008)

wilbilt said:
			
		

> My $300 Chinese Champion Chonda clone is splash-lubricated. It also has a low-oil shutdown.
> 
> I don't consider it a continuous-run piece of equipment. During outages, I typically will run it for a couple of hours powering the fridge and freezer, then connect it to the well pump so we can flush toilets, take showers, etc. I don't run it all day, or at night. I use it for what it is, and don't expect more from it.
> 
> ...


Wow Wilbilt - when a honda don't start its bad - I never get more than 2 pulls on mine. I' be curious to hear what was wrong. Aside from a fouled plug, which they're famous for if left idling with no load, and crappy gas its hard to kill a honda.


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## schmeg (Dec 14, 2008)

I have an 8 year old comercial grade Generac 7500w continueous Generator with a 14 hp overhead valve, pressure oil fed system with a spin on filter. I use Mobil 1 0w-30 in it. It gets a workout here in the country in Maine. We loose power on a regular basis, for extended periods of time. Nothing new to us. I let mine run all day on Friday so my pellet stove would keep the house at 70 while I went out and scrounged up my 5th ton. OINK!


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## RPK1 (Dec 14, 2008)

Thanks for that usefull information.  I recently installed a 16kw propane fueled auto-start generator to take the place of my well used 1985 Honda EB4000.  My old honda still runs well.  I was wondering if it would be any benefit to switch over to synthetic oil.  Any thoughts will be helpfull.

RPK1


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## wilbilt (Dec 14, 2008)

ResOps said:
			
		

> Wow Wilbilt - when a honda don't start its bad - I never get more than 2 pulls on mine. I' be curious to hear what was wrong. Aside from a fouled plug, which they're famous for if left idling with no load, and crappy gas its hard to kill a honda.



It seems to be a fuel issue. I messed with it a little bit last spring. It was flooding, so took the carb off and cleaned it out. It would start and run for a short time, and then didn't seem to be getting any fuel at all.

I checked the filter in the tank petcock, it was fine. Then there was no spark at the plug, which is probably ten years old at least.

I chalked it up to a bad karma day and rolled it back into the shed. I'll get motivated one of these days and figure it out.


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## BrotherBart (Dec 14, 2008)

Both my 4,250 watt and 4,800 watt splash oilers are designed to run their little butts off until either the power comes on or they melt down to landfill material.


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## staplebox (Dec 14, 2008)

Oy, probably not needed here, but, another reminder is to not run a generator INDOORS.  Every time there is a power outage like this you just know you are going to read about someone running a generator in the house or garage and dying from the carbon monoxide.  A quote from the Hartford Courant about the recent storm,

"Emergency management officials reported four storm-related deaths. One man in New Hampshire and a couple in New York state died of carbon monoxide poisoning from home generators."

I don't know what kind of instructions or warning labels new generators come with but either they are not big enough or some people just don't get it.


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## ResOps (Dec 14, 2008)

staplebox said:
			
		

> Oy, probably not needed here, but, another reminder is to not run a generator INDOORS.  Every time there is a power outage like this you just know you are going to read about someone running a generator in the house or garage and dying from the carbon monoxide.  A quote from the Hartford Courant about the recent storm,
> 
> "Emergency management officials reported four storm-related deaths. One man in New Hampshire and a couple in New York state died of carbon monoxide poisoning from home generators."
> I don't know what kind of instructions or warning labels new generators come with but either they are not big enough or some people just don't get it.




WHAT?? can't hear you over the generator Oh never mind I'm too sleepy to worry about it> :-S 

Just kidding. And certainly agree - outdoors only


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## Richardin52 (Dec 14, 2008)

I had a Brigs 16 HP twin on a Wood miser saw mill that a splash system.  One night when I left it on a job some kids drained the oil out of it then turned it on full throttle.  The guy I was cutting for stopped by and found it running like that and shut it down.  He said when he did about a teaspoon of oil came out of the drain hole.  We have no idea how long it ran like that but figure they got into it before dark so they could see and he found it like that about an hour after dark.

I figured it was toast but took the mill home and put some more oil in.  It started and never smoked or anything.  I ran that mill for another 6 years and cut over a million feet with that same engine and never had a problem.  A mechanic told me if it had not been a splash system it never would have made it.  He figured there was just enough oil in it (the teaspoon) to lube it. 

This was a horizontal apposed 16 twin and was one tuff engine.


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## jdemaris (Dec 14, 2008)

eernest4 said:
			
		

> If the engine is not equipped with an automotive type screw on oil filter then chances are you have a splash oiling system & are looking at a 2 or 3 week engine life span on a new engine
> under continious opperation.




It's not that simple.  There are many engines without pressurized oil systems that are very heavy duty and made for continous use.  Every own or use an old cast-iron Wisconsin engine?  At one time, the most popular and rugged small engine in the world - and no pressure oiling. TRA10D, TED, TFD, AEN, VE4D, etc.  'The later Wisconsin Robin engines are made by Subaru and are also rated for full-time use and they don't have pressure oiling either.

I'll also add that many cheaper Tecumseh and Briggs & Stratton engines - with no pressure oiling- are used on full-time use commercial equipment and last quite awhile.  We sold commercial Bobcat and Bunton 48" mowers that came with Briggs or Tecumseh 10 horse engines. They got used 8-10 hours a day, every day, all summer.

More of a problem with cheap, throw-away engines is - the lack of ball bearing mains and lack of a cast-iron cylinder liner.  And yes, there are many cheap throw-away engines used on generators.

One more note - about engine oil.  Most automotive engines oils now are not really suited for small engines - but that info isn't exactly made overt.   The heavy duty wear additives - ZDDP- have been removed except for oils used off-road in HD use.  Getting an oil with the proper antiwear additives is much more of an issue to me.  As to using thin oil - fine if you have to and the generator is stored in a cold area.  Otherwise - if it's stored somewhere warm - a higher viscosity is often better - especically in splash-oiled system.  Oil should be the thickest possible based on the coldest area it's stored in.


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## schmeg (Dec 15, 2008)

Mine stays out in a little "dog house" I made for it right near my meter and power switch. It gets well below zero a lot here. Thats why I run 0w-30. Good flow characteristics. It gets 15w-40 in the summer. With good oil small engines will last a very long time. A lot of what Earnest is refering to can be avoided with frequent and regular oil changes.


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## donkarlos (Dec 15, 2008)

doghouse - ha!  
curious though, how enclosed can a gen house be?


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## Shortstuff (Dec 15, 2008)

I wanted to share this because I found it to be the most informative information - all inclusive - in one place about engine oils.  I've never learned so much about oils.

I'm doing my annual maintenance on my snow-thrower (8hp Briggs&Stratton and according to the manual it requires a quart of 5w-30 motor oil with an API rating of *SF-SG-SH or SH/CD*.  So, I checked around at more than a few places while out and about and wasn't able to find oil with the right API rating(s).  So, not knowing any better, I wondered if I could substitute my oil with another API rating and decided to do my homework and learn exactly what this API was all about and I found this "The Engine Oil Bible" (link below) which gave me the answer.

The API refers more to the year a particular oil was introduced into service, rather than anything "chemically specific" as I thought it was.  Currently *SM* is the newest API service rating which was introduced to the market in November of 2004, which replaced the API *SL* which was introduced to the market in 1998, which replaced the API *SJ* which was introduced to the market in 1996, then comes my snow throwers *SH - SG - SF* etc.

Bottom line is that I can use any of the newer API rating oils.

See, you _can_ teach an old dog new tricks!

"The Engine Oil Bible"

Happy Heating!

Steve


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## wilbilt (Dec 15, 2008)

Shortstuff said:
			
		

> I wanted to share this because I found it to be the most informative information - all inclusive - in one place about engine oils.  I've never learned so much about oils.



Here is another excellent oil-related site. Tons of information, and lots of knowledgeable posters in the forums:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/


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## kofkorn (Dec 15, 2008)

schmeg said:
			
		

> Mine stays out in a little "dog house" I made for it right near my meter and power switch. It gets well below zero a lot here. Thats why I run 0w-30. Good flow characteristics. It gets 15w-40 in the summer. With good oil small engines will last a very long time. A lot of what Earnest is refering to can be avoided with frequent and regular oil changes.



Be Careful

My sister's neighbor had exactly the same setup with his generator.  When they lost power on Friday, he went out, started the generator and went off to work.  His wife got up, took a shower and then saw flames passing by the bathroom window.  She had just enough time to get her two kids out.  They lost the whole house.  No indication yet exactly how it started, but I'm guessing the exhaust was too close to the wall.

Make sure that thing is properly vented, both intake and EXHAUST


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## kofkorn (Dec 15, 2008)

Here's a picture of the house after the fire on Friday.

http://www.journaltribune.com/DailyPhoto/DSC_0500.jpg

He had the generator in a small doghouse right beside the power drop.  PLEASE BE CAREFUL!


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## imacman (Dec 15, 2008)

schmeg said:
			
		

> ........ A lot of what Earnest is refering to can be avoided with frequent and regular oil changes.



Absolutely right!  Hey, if you run the generator a lot, change the oil a lot!  If you can afford the generator, you can afford to buy a quart or two of oil once in a while.

And speaking about oil, anyone that is not running full synthetic oil in their generator (or _any_ engine IMO), is behind the times.  Synthetic is superior to regular mineral oil in many ways.

As for generators, especially ones used in cold climates, a low winter rating oil (0w, 5w) makes the engines start easier as it doesn't thicken when it gets cold like mineral oil, and is also superior for high stress, long endurance running....it does not break down like mineral oil.  I use Mobil 1 in my 12kw Generac (recommended by the manufacturer after break-in), my car, my garden tractor, and snow blower, but ANY name brand will be fine (Amsoil, Quaker state, Pennzoil, etc).

We have been using synthetic in our race cars for years (engine, rear end, bearing grease too)....have NEVER had an oil-related failure...period.

Get with the times people.


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## PunKid8888 (Dec 15, 2008)

I borrowed my friends little Honda 1750 watt,  its very small and compact but he did say it was designed for continious use.  I got it saturday night (power went out thursday 11pm), house was at 40F and I was able to run the pellet stove, fridge and a couple lights.  I got the house up to 60F  by morning,  ran it all sunday and just shut down before leaving for work today.  I still have no power but I wanted to give the little guy a break.  I think I will not have power till mid week.   The good (at least the way I see it) is I got about a half to full cord of wood part of which fell on my house, but no damage. The Generator runs on my deck with, and the exhuast is aimed away from the house.  

So you think the generator will be ok in the rain? I think I just might put a piece of plywood over it just to keep the brunt of the rain off of it


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## imacman (Dec 15, 2008)

PunKid8888 said:
			
		

> So you think the generator will be ok in the rain? I think I just might put a piece of plywood over it just to keep the brunt of the rain off of it



Glad to hear the house wasn't damaged from the tree, and that you had the generator to help w/ the heat.  As for covering it, I would do it if possible.  There was a thread I started a few days ago about using pallets, and my neighbor used a few to make a simple "house" for his genny.

Just make sure you give it some space so exhaust doesn't catch anything on fire, and has air to breathe/cool it.


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## jdemaris (Dec 15, 2008)

Shortstuff said:
			
		

> Bottom line is that I can use any of the newer API rating oils.
> 
> Steve



I see several flaws in that article, especailly the comments about diesel rated oils in gas engines.   No, not any newer API rated oil is good for your engine, depending on what your engine is. 

One thing that has been kept quiet is the removal of an important anti-wear ingredient in most USA oils in 2007.   That indegredient is very important for engines that use flat-tapped camshafts.  Many small engines still do.  Most automotive engines since the late 80s, do not. 

At first, a good work-around was to use a good diesel-rated oil in your small gas engine.  But now - the additive has also been removed from many diesel oils, even the old standard Shell Rotella T.

In a way, this reminds me of what happened when leaded gas was phased out (which did indeed damage some engines), and more recenty, the problems with ultra low sulfur diesel fuel.

Here's one write-up about what has happened to many oils. 

Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphates (ZDDP)

Widely used as an anti-wear agent in motor oils to protect heavily loaded parts, particularly the
valve train mechanisms (such as the camshaft and cam followers) from excessive wear. It is also
used as an anti-wear agent in hydraulic fluids and certain other products. ZDDP is also an
effective oxidation inhibitor. Oils containing ZDDP should not be used in engines that employ
silver alloy bearings. All car manufacturers before 2007 recommend the use of dialkyl ZDDP in
motor
oils for passenger car service.

ZDDP was the most commonly used additive in engine oil for sixty years and is a
multi-functional additive which provides the wear protection in almost all engine oil formulations.
In very simple terms, ZDDP, when heated in the high temperatures of the engine, decomposes
to form an extremely thin layer of phosphorous glass over the engine surfaces (sometimes
referred to as "glassivation"). This new layer of glass is perpetually worn away and replenished,
protecting the metal surfaces from wearing away.

The problem for 2007  is that while ZDDP works to protect engines very nicely, it has other
performance features that have become "possibly" detrimental in modern automotive engines to
certain parts of the emissions and exhaust systems. 

Oil companies have been cutting back on the use of Zn and P as anti-wear additives, and
turning to alternative zinc-free (ZF) additives and ash-less dispersants since Zn, P, and sulfated
ash have been found to be bad for catalytic converters (new low SAPS oils). 
This reduction is a mandate issued by API, American Petroleum Institute, who is in charge of
developing standing standards for motor oils. The latest API SM standard for car oils calls for a
zinc and phosphorus content less than 0.08% to reduce sulfur, carbon monoxide, and
hydrocarbon emissions. As a result of this mandate, some motor oils now have as little as
0.05% zinc and phosphorus - including Shell Rotella T "Triple Protection" blend. Prior to the
new CJ-4 API standard for diesel oils, we found most
of the CI-4 15w40 and 5w40 oils to have excellent levels of Zn and P.
These new API guidelines do not need apply to “racing,” “severe duty,” or any motor oils that
do not carry an API “starburst” seal or clearly state for off-road-use only. Motor oils meeting
“Energy Conserving I or II” standards should be avoided as well as those with an API SM
classification, with it's lower Zn and P levels, which applies only to 0w20, 0w30, 5w20, 5w30,
and 10w30 "ILSAC" GF-4 grades. Although having been more sensitive to emissions and the
environment than American standards, we find the European ACEA A3 and B3/B4
classifications, which place a cap on P levels at 0.10-0.12%, to be better in taking into
consideration wear and engine longevity while limiting emissions and protecting emissions
control devices. 
Although difficult to find, some manufacturers are continuing to produce their CI-4 oils, some of
which can be found at your local auto parts stores. Check the label. If it says CI-4 or CI-4+
alone with no mention of a CJ-4, it's probably good.


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## alexdrozd (Dec 15, 2008)

My generator is a two stroke. I mix the gas and oil. Are these type rated for continuous use?


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## hoverfly (Dec 15, 2008)

macman said:
			
		

> schmeg said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



My Brigs and Strat manual say change the oil every 50 hours no mater what kind so there is a safty factor built in between oil changes.  By the way I am a fan of Amsoil, and just bought oil for continuous use equipment like generators. AMSOIL 10W-30/SAE 30 Synthetic Small Engine Oil


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## imacman (Dec 15, 2008)

Hoverfly said:
			
		

> My Brigs and Strat manual say change the oil every 50 hours no mater what kind so there is a safty factor built in between oil changes.  By the way I am a fan of Amsoil, and just bought oil for continuous use equipment like generators. AMSOIL 10W-30/SAE 30 Synthetic Small Engine Oil



I have been involved in auto racing for 35+ years, and IMO, Amsoil is THE best synthetic there is....period.  Hard to find sometimes, and expensive, but the BEST!


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## woodsman23 (Dec 15, 2008)

I have a EQ1000 honda and before we got electric up here in the sticks i used this generator non-stop 7 days a week. I built a small shealter for it (vented) then I hooked it up to a 10 gallon gas container with a hose feed from the bottom of the big tank to the carb fuel line and never have had any issues with it. I bought it in 1990 and to this day it starts with one pull and is quiet as a mouse. Runs 8 hours on 1 gallon of gas. It will run the pellet stove and the fridge along with a few lights. If your going to get a genny gat a HONDA there is nothing better.


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## jdemaris (Dec 15, 2008)

woodsman23 said:
			
		

> I have a EQ1000 honda and before we got electric up here in the sticks i used this generator non-stop 7 days a week.



No argument with the quality of Honda engines (I still have my 305 Super Hawk bike from the 60s).   But, there are other small engines made for hard full time use in the same price bracket that  test a little better than Honda in long-term durability - namely Subaru.  Usually sold as "Robin".    Several telecom companies use the 8 horse engines for out-in-the-field use where they get run full-time.

One neat thing  about some of the Hondas is the DC line of generators they sell. Their AC generators do not make perfect power and will not run certain types of battery chargers.  But, their Inverter series will - since they use DC generators running through full-wave inverters.  They also do not depend on precise RPM to make 60 Hertz, so they can load-match and run at near idle speed when low loads are called for.


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## rowerwet (Jan 4, 2009)

My Homelite 3500 watt has a Subaru  Robin engine, it says 20 hrs first oil change, 100 hrs after that, nothing about not using continuously, spark plug is also 100 hrs. I got it a Home Despot for $460 it has wheels and a folding handle included. I don't worry about covering it as the 4 gal fuel tank is flat and covers the whole top of the generator. I use a 50' heavy duty extension cord to get the power into the house. (which was nice when I moved it behind the house after hearing all the reports of generator thefts) I ran for 5 days straight and only shut it down twice a day to fuel and oil it, it never needed oil, and as long as the temp is under 104* outside (which I don't know when Maine has ever hit that) I don't have to worry about cooling. My generator varies the speed based on load, so a tank that will last 8 hrs at half load will do double that on what I need which my total load was 2700 watts and three of those loads cycle on and off. OPB, fridge, deep freeze, actualy one of my circulators cycles on the thermostat.


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## rowerwet (Jan 4, 2009)

macman said:
			
		

> schmeg said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



not that I am a greenie or anything but I run amsoil in all three cars, it has a 35,000 mile oil drain interval and they just increased the oil filter change to one year also. it used to be 6 months or 25,000 miles. I like not having to crawl under the car every three months or so and I drive 200-400 miles a week to work. I have been doing amsoil for 6 years now and don't have any problems on my 4 cyl ranger which now has 250,000 miles on it, the last 150,000 on amsoil. I noticed a 1-2 Mpg increase after I switched each car over ( '02 focus, '06 grand caravan) and I don't create as much waste oil. I will be putting amsoil in my generator and lawn mower as soon as I make my next amsoil buy.


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## rowerwet (Jan 4, 2009)

kofkorn said:
			
		

> Here's a picture of the house after the fire on Friday.
> 
> http://www.journaltribune.com/DailyPhoto/DSC_0500.jpg
> 
> He had the generator in a small doghouse right beside the power drop.  PLEASE BE CAREFUL!


I had a neighbor get a new house this way to, only his was automatic start and it burst into flames on start up. It was only 3 feet from the back of the house.


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## Galroc (Jan 5, 2009)

I have a no-name BJs (club warehouse) 5800 watt generator with a 10hp B&S;engine with splash oiling. 

Instructions are to change the oil after the first 5 hours and then every 50 hours after that.

I bought it last Spring when my underground electric lines failed. The generator sure came in handy this past ice storm.

Last spring, I ran it 3 days straight, and then another 5 days straight during this past ice storm. I haven't noticed any smoking, or loss of oil. 

My pellet stove can run on batteries but that only lasts about 8 hours/battery. The generator kept my pellet stove running, as well as my refrigerator, my lights, etc.


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