# Thinking about switching from wood to gas



## emt1581 (Mar 30, 2014)

A little history...

Back when we first moved in, this place came with radiant (coils in the ceiling) for heat.   It was incredibly inefficient and would be close to $1000/mo. just to heat this place (2000sq.ft. colonial).  So I initially called the gas company and asked how much it would be to connect us.  I was told that if we were going with a gas furnace $300.  Ok, not bad.  If we were NOT going with a gas furnace...$3000!  Ok, thanks, bye! 

So after doing a bunch of homework I decided on a VC Encore 2-in-1 wood stove.  Well it's been a royal pain in the ass for us.  Between hauling in wood, arranging drop offs and testing the wood, sweeping the chimney, replacing the gaskets, etc...etc...etc....

At this point I'm considering giving gas another try.  I'd probably just fib to the gas company about the furnace.  I mean technically we ARE going to be using gas to heat our home.  But I'm not sure how they'd verify whether we actually go with a furnace or not.  

But I figure since we already have the hearth, the chimney, etc...maybe we could look for a gas stove that will heat the home the same but with a flick of a switch/thermostat instead of all the cost/labor we have to do now.  

How's my line of thinking?  Realistic?  Is gas significantly cheaper than wood ($200/cord)?  What stoves should we look at?  Is used ok?  Money is VERY VERY tight right now.  

Thanks

-Emt1581


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## coaly (Mar 30, 2014)

They SHOULD come in and check your equipment, and get the model and serial number from all the gas appliances. They legally must do a leak down pressure test that can be done outside, (tee into line) but they should still check to make sure you have proper drip legs, service valves, proper line sizing and venting etc.....  Reasoning for different rates is due to central furnace using more. That is not the most efficient way to heat with gas, constantly heating the entire envelope of home. Units in different rooms that can be adjusted for heat output to keep the room you're using is the way to save with gas. Most companies use heating degree days and have a good idea when someone adds or removes an appliance by their usage. That's why "cook only" is more expensive and sometimes doesn't even pay the lease cost of the cylinders.
I retired from my own propane service co. and heated my own with coal until it became close to 200 a ton. That required no chimney cleaning, very constant fire with thermostat, no bugs or dirt, and normally heated 1880 s.f. with 2 tons a winter in NE PA. Lit it once a year, shake morning and night, fill hopper once a day........ burned until we let it go out.  Now I have more land to cut from, and coal isn't as cheap, so I've been using wood only. If I had to buy my wood, I would be back to coal (in the same stove) before considering LP. Depends on what the convenience of flipping a switch is worth to you.


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## emt1581 (Mar 31, 2014)

coaly said:


> They SHOULD come in and check your equipment, and get the model and serial number from all the gas appliances. They legally must do a leak down pressure test that can be done outside, (tee into line) but they should still check to make sure you have proper drip legs, service valves, proper line sizing and venting etc.....  Reasoning for different rates is due to central furnace using more. That is not the most efficient way to heat with gas, constantly heating the entire envelope of home. Units in different rooms that can be adjusted for heat output to keep the room you're using is the way to save with gas. Most companies use heating degree days and have a good idea when someone adds or removes an appliance by their usage. That's why "cook only" is more expensive and sometimes doesn't even pay the lease cost of the cylinders.
> I retired from my own propane service co. and heated my own with coal until it became close to 200 a ton. That required no chimney cleaning, very constant fire with thermostat, no bugs or dirt, and normally heated 1880 s.f. with 2 tons a winter in NE PA. Lit it once a year, shake morning and night, fill hopper once a day........ burned until we let it go out.  Now I have more land to cut from, and coal isn't as cheap, so I've been using wood only. If I had to buy my wood, I would be back to coal (in the same stove) before considering LP. Depends on what the convenience of flipping a switch is worth to you.



In other words you can't lie to the gas company because they check your equipment.  Also, kinda sounds like gas isn't an economic solution from that last line there.  

I know I've read elsewhere that LP and NG used to be around the same price but this winter threw that off big time.

BTW, we're in the Lehigh Valley....saw you mention NE PA....sounds like the Poconos.

Thanks

-Emt1581


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## FanMan (Mar 31, 2014)

Define "furnace"... I have a freestanding gas fireplace (27,000 BTU) that's the primary heat for my house (there are also two 7500 BTU DV gas heaters that were installed later) and I'm billed at the "heating" rate.


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## CaptSpiff (Apr 22, 2014)

emt1581 said:


> At this point I'm considering giving gas another try.  I'd probably just fib to the gas company about the furnace.  I mean technically we ARE going to be using gas to heat our home.  But I'm not sure how they'd verify whether we actually go with a furnace or not.



Hi emt1581:
I'm confused from your post, are you thinking about Propane or NG?


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