# Any Creosote experts identify this buildup? How do I clean it?



## scooby074 (Jan 10, 2013)

I just went and checked the flue today and I had my usual buildup. Ive heard that some creosote is more dangerous than others and Im curious if I have to worry or if perhaps Im doing something wrong. I do plan on cleaning the flue this weekend and its been about 1 month-1.5 months since the last cleaning. I try to keep flue temperatures "In the white" on my thermometer, approx 300-450. Im burning mixed hardwood, mostly maple.  Some cut this year, and some CSS for 1yr.

In my flue, there is two distinct types of creosote and they happen in two different types of stove pipe.

In the upper Selkirk style pipe, I get this light brown, fluffy buildup that's easy to clean. Im not too worried about that, should I be?







The lower, single wall pipe is where I get concerned. The buildup is hard, shiny and black. Tiere is also considerable flaking where the creosote comes off in large (1"x1") sheets. The cleanout cap is regularly filled to the top edge with these flakes when it's cleaning time.

Flaking:





FLakes in cleanout cap after dumping out the loose stuff:





Hard, black buildup (in foreground) in single wall T leading into selkirk.





Looking down into the 90* that leads to the stove. Notice flaking. Also hard black creosote





Looking into T. 90* to stove is on bottom. Top of T going to selkirk is on top. Area is full of shiny hard creosote, although the picture does not show the shine very well.






When I clean the stove with my Sooteater, all the brown fluffy stuff and any loose flakes are easily removed, however I cant get the hard black shiny stuff off. Im concerned that by leaving the shiny stuff behind, it's promoting more and more growth of it. Even a hand held wire brush cant cut through it.

Is there a way to remove the hard stuff?How about that powder you sprinkle in the fire?

Is there any reason to be concerned over the hard stuff being left behind after cleaning other than the fact that is seems to be getting thicker and promoting more of the same?


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## Slow1 (Jan 10, 2013)

I think that black is the "glaze" which is nasty stuff to have.  I'm eager to hear from folks about what they think is leading to the formation.  I'm quite certain that you need to get it cleaned out though in any case as from what I understand once it gets to burning it burns hot and fast.


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## northwinds (Jan 10, 2013)

There's a pretty good explanation of what's going on here and what you can and can't do about it. 

http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/hoglaze.htm


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## Jags (Jan 10, 2013)

If this were my stack, I would start with one of the chimney cleaning potions. This stuff is supposed to chemically react with the creosote and make it easier to sweep (read the directions). Then I would probably take a more mechanical (physical) approach with a wire sweeping brush. Get after it.

Then I would start looking at my burning practices. For a 4 to 6 week period, that is ugly.

Edit: I would highly suggest reading the article from Tom that northwinds posted.  Good info.


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## joescho (Jan 10, 2013)

You might be ok for this year, but I would have a professional come out after the season and do a cleaning and talk about it.  I don't clean my chimney for my fireplace, only for my pellet stove.  I feel I'm not qualified enough to know what's ok and what's not.  Also, I just don't have the right tools or know how to use them correctly.

If it were me, I would keep doing what you're doing until after the season.  If it keeps you up nights, call a chminey guy and have him come out the next chance both of you have.

JS


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## charly (Jan 10, 2013)

I thought someone had said that the black shiny creosote comes from an air leak at the joint,, cold air cooling the flue gases..


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## Jags (Jan 10, 2013)

charly said:


> I thought someone had said that the black shiny creosote comes from an air leak at the joint,, cold air cooling the flue gases..


 
One possible cause, Charly, but not the only reason. Read the article that Northwinds posted. It is much more eloquent that I am and it does a great job of explaining it. That Tom dude (chimney sweep) is an all right guy.


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## charly (Jan 10, 2013)

Jags said:


> One possible cause, Charly, but not the only reason. Read the article that Northwinds posted. It is much more eloquent that I am and it does a great job of explaining it. That Tom dude (chimney sweep) is an all right guy.


Good article Jags..


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## Grisu (Jan 10, 2013)

scooby074 said:


> I just went and checked the flue today and I had my usual buildup. Ive heard that some creosote is more dangerous than others and Im curious if I have to worry or if perhaps Im doing something wrong. I do plan on cleaning the flue this weekend and its been about 1 month-1.5 months since the last cleaning. I try to keep flue temperatures "In the white" on my thermometer, approx 300-450. Im burning mixed hardwood, mostly maple. Some cut this year, and some CSS for 1yr.


 
You are indeed doing something wrong: Your wood cut over the summer is certainly not dry; the other probably only semi-dry. A moisture meter will help you to find out whether it can be burned this winter. In addition, your flue temps seem also a bit low. I would try to find some other dry wood like pallets or lumberscraps that you can use to get the stove and flue up to temp before trying to burn any of the other wood. Of that I would only use the stuff CSS for a year and keep the rest for next winter.


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## corey21 (Jan 10, 2013)

Your wood is wet that is one of the problems the other is your burning ways.


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## remkel (Jan 10, 2013)

It is a thin layer of creosote, but even those thin layers can be a problem. As people have stated, wet wood and air leak could be the problem. It looks like it turns mor powdery once it gets past the single wall, but that said, I agree that is a lot of buildup for 4-6 weeks worth of burning.


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## scooby074 (Jan 10, 2013)

Thanks guys. I could be wrong on the last time it was cleaned. I do try for once a month, but due to xmas and that it could have been 2 months +.. still though it is a bit of buildup.

On moisture, yes this seasons wood isnt nearly as dry as Id like (or as dry as you guys on here like), but it is "ok". I have a meter and will check. I do not have an issue with controlling my fire, I can get it at 400 on the temp gauge and hold it there until im down to charcoal. So while the wood is not ideal, im not having an issue working with it.

I think part of the reason Im building glaze is my woman likes to damp the stove way down over night and through the day.. too much. She basically shuts off the damper resulting in a smoldering fire that dirties the glass. I like to keep it on "#2-#3" which keeps the glass clear and keeps the pipe temps at around 400.

Interesting on the theory of air leakage at joints, I had no idea. That could be a part too. Some of my joints arent fully seated and some are kinda loose in the female, particularly at the 90* where it goes into the T and up the stack. I had always planned on going back and re-doing the pipe including caulking the joints, but never got to it.

Is double wall pipe worth it if I dont have clearance issues?

What about seamless pipe? I have no idea how much it costs because its not available at my building supply, is it worth it? My current pipe is the stuff that has the lock seam, some of it isnt even completely round and I know that it is causing some leaks because I have what I guess is "fly ash" near those parts where the pipes arent fully seated.

I did pick up some of the creosote powder to try. It might not even be worth it if I end up redoing it in seamless pipe. I could not find any of the more heavy duty products.

One of the things that confuses me is the fact that I have NO glaze buildup in the upper chimney. You'd think that if it was wet wood, or cold smoke related, the further I got from the stove the worse it would be??


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## thewoodlands (Jan 10, 2013)

scooby074 said:


> I just went and checked the flue today and I had my usual buildup. Ive heard that some creosote is more dangerous than others and Im curious if I have to worry or if perhaps Im doing something wrong. I do plan on cleaning the flue this weekend and its been about 1 month-1.5 months since the last cleaning. I try to keep flue temperatures "In the white" on my thermometer, approx 300-450. Im burning mixed hardwood, mostly maple. Some cut this year, and some CSS for 1yr.
> 
> In my flue, there is two distinct types of creosote and they happen in two different types of stove pipe.
> 
> ...


This was in post # 3, we have been using it since our first year burning, works great.
http://chimneysaver.com/item/4-creosote-removal-products/23-acs-anti-creo-soot-liquid.html


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## scooby074 (Jan 10, 2013)

Grisu said:


> You are indeed doing something wrong: Your wood cut over the summer is certainly not dry; the other probably only semi-dry. A moisture meter will help you to find out whether it can be burned this winter. In addition, your flue temps seem also a bit low. I would try to find some other dry wood like pallets or lumberscraps that you can use to get the stove and flue up to temp before trying to burn any of the other wood. Of that I would only use the stuff CSS for a year and keep the rest for next winter.


 
Ideally Id like to only use the older stuff, but I have to mix it in with this years in order to make it last. If I was burning it exclusively, Id probably go through it in 2 weeks.

On stove pipe temps, Im going by the magnetic thermo, the "white range" only goes from approx 300 to 475. Lately Ive been getting it up to 525 to make a bit more heat, but the woman doesnt like that.. actually she freaks out if the needle goes over the white. Then she slams the damper in to make the temp drop I tell her that is a bad thing to do. Shes starting to come around a bit but she really doesnt like it when the needle is over 500.


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## scooby074 (Jan 10, 2013)

zap said:


> This was in post # 3, we have been using it since our first year burning, works great.
> http://chimneysaver.com/item/4-creosote-removal-products/23-acs-anti-creo-soot-liquid.html


 
Interesting product.

However I cant find a single dealer in Canada Definitely not in my province. I even checked the Toronto region!!

Is there anything from Imperial that is decent? Products from these guys are available pretty much everywhere up here:http://www.imperialgroup.ca/stove_maintenanceproducts.cfm?c=81


This is the stuff I bought tonite. Its called Co-Mate. http://www.atlcombustion.com/comate/applications/comate_in_wood_fired_furnaces It is a new product in store, but it came recommended over the Imperial "Sweep Aid" product. I understand it is an industrial product.

A better description of the product can be found in this PDF http://www.compactappliances.ca/files/files/Comate2.pdf


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## remkel (Jan 10, 2013)

Sounds like your wife is choking the fire....that could be the cause of the buildup. Run that stove hot!


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## scooby074 (Jan 10, 2013)

remkel said:


> Sounds like your wife is choking the fire....that could be the cause of the buildup. Run that stove hot!


 
Yeah.. I know that there are other issues like air leaks and less than ideal wood, but I think the smoldering fires are 75% the cause.  Thing is, she thinks shes doing a good thing. Its hard to fault her. She thinks that anything over white on the gauge will result in "instant flue fire" and closing the damper through the day will save wood.


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## Slow1 (Jan 10, 2013)

scooby074 said:


> Yeah.. I know that there are other issues like air leaks and less than ideal wood, but I think the smoldering fires are 75% the cause. Thing is, she thinks shes doing a good thing. Its hard to fault her. She thinks that anything over white on the gauge will result in "instant flue fire" and closing the damper through the day will save wood.


 
You need to show her that glaze and explain that the glaze is what burns to make a flue fire - if she stopped building it up then there would be nothing to burn if you did get it hot enough to ignite.  

Perhaps I missed it too - where is that thermometer sitting to get these readings anyway?


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## scooby074 (Jan 10, 2013)

My thermometer is about 14" up the stack.

Here's a pic


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## scooby074 (Jan 10, 2013)

Zap, I notice that Imperial makes a manganese based creosote remover much like anti-creo-soot that you recommend, however its not available for sale in Canada for some reason!! Maybe that's why I cant find any of the ACS products here? Perhaps the government wont allow their sale???


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## Slow1 (Jan 10, 2013)

Consider a second thermometer to put on your stovetop and let us know your temps there - this may say a lot about the burn.  Also, do you see much smoke out the top of the chimney when you are burning?


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## Highbeam (Jan 10, 2013)

What an odd looking setup. I would recommend getting rid of the 90 and the tee, then using an offset made of two 45 degree bends with the top bend at the ceiling box. Make sure your joints fit well, no need to add sealant, cement, or tape when you properly install pipe. Improve the wood supply and you'll be all set.

I like double wall. It is stainless steel inner wall so it will last a long time plus it drafts better and is built with better craftsmanship and quality. Things line up and fit tight with the double wall sections. It does cost more though.

Before hiring somebody to clean your pipe, consider the cost of replacing it. These days, labor costs and travel costs eat up a large portion of just throwing away the item being repaired and replacing it.


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## scooby074 (Jan 10, 2013)

Highbeam said:


> What an odd looking setup. I would recommend getting rid of the 90 and the tee, then using an offset made of two 45 degree bends with the top bend at the ceiling box. Make sure your joints fit well, no need to add sealant, cement, or tape when you properly install pipe. Improve the wood supply and you'll be all set.
> 
> I like double wall. It is stainless steel inner wall so it will last a long time plus it drafts better and is built with better craftsmanship and quality. Things line up and fit tight with the double wall sections. It does cost more though.
> 
> Before hiring somebody to clean your pipe, consider the cost of replacing it. These days, labor costs and travel costs eat up a large portion of just throwing away the item being repaired and replacing it.


 
That setup was dictated by my insurance company, including the rather ugly drop down to the T. They wanted the airspace between the ceiling and any horizontal pipe.

If I re-do it, I kind of want to keep a T of some sort to act as a cleanout / inspection location. Any ideas on that?

What brands of pipe are good?


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## scooby074 (Jan 10, 2013)

Slow1 said:


> Consider a second thermometer to put on your stovetop and let us know your temps there - this may say a lot about the burn. Also, do you see much smoke out the top of the chimney when you are burning?


 
I have an IR thermometer, so I'll try and get some readings for you. Off the top of my head, I seem to recall stove top temps of about 550 last time I checked. I'll confirm.


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## scooby074 (Jan 11, 2013)

Slow1 said:


> Consider a second thermometer to put on your stovetop and let us know your temps there - this may say a lot about the burn. Also, do you see much smoke out the top of the chimney when you are burning?


 
No smoke really when I have the damper on 2-3.

STT's are around 670 with stovepipe at 430


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## Blazin (Jan 11, 2013)

If you take out the "T" ,move the stove under the chimney, and run the pipe straight up from the stove, your joints will be tighter and it will be easier to clean.  You will, however, have to let the stove cool and remove the baffle to let the sweepings fall into the burning chamber.


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## nate379 (Jan 11, 2013)

Was there a reason that the chimney couldn't go directly over the top of the stove?

Insurance wanted the T for what reason?


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## scooby074 (Jan 11, 2013)

nate379 said:


> Was there a reason that the chimney couldn't go directly over the top of the stove?
> 
> Insurance wanted the T for what reason?


 
I don't know why. Cleanout and inspection maybe? Or maybe because there was a T  in the original stove setup? Originally the T was close to the ceiling when we bought this place.

I do know I like having a T, it makes cleaning much easier. Because the stove is my sole source of heat, I need to keep it running as close to 24/7 as possible. Having to wait several hours for it to cool so I can remove the baffles wouldnt be ideal.


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## corey21 (Jan 11, 2013)

I would say were your stove got dampened down on the air so much is the main issue here.


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## rideau (Jan 11, 2013)

I'm no expert, but:
1) ICC, which manufactures an insulated double wall pipe and chimney, which both keep flue temps higer and reduce chance of creosote build up) , advises one must sweep one's pipe and chimney within 48 hours of shutting the stove down for the season.  I'm sure this is because otherwise any creosote can convert to the shiny type you have.  I'm wondering whether you had any time between sweeps when you had your stove cold for 48 hours?  With your creosote build up, and single wall pipe, probably a good idea to sweep as soon as your stove cools down anytime you are going to let it get cold.

If you can afford it, I'd replace with double wall, which will minimize your creosote formation.

Also, if you have room and floor protection, I'd move the stove out any install straight pipe, which will increase draft and result in lower creosote formation.  You can probably still install a T off the pipe at a right angle to the back for cleaning...I'm not sure, but don't see why not.  At the very least, I'd change that connection to 45s which will slow smoke down less.  But, I'd really try to go straight, and whether ot not I could, I'd get rid of that wierd cleanout.  You can go to adjustable stovepipe, which you disconnect to sweep from below...easy to do.


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## Highbeam (Jan 11, 2013)

I believe that the 48 hour recommendation was actually to remove the creosote at the end of the burning season vs. letting it sit inside the stove all summer. During the summer, the higher humidity and time will create more corrosion than a clean flue. Also safety so you don't forget to clean it before the first fire. Creosote doesn't convert to shiny stuff on its own.

It is true that a horizontal seciton of pipe must be a certain distance from the ceiling. However, there is no reason for you to have anything in your flue close to horizontal. You need an offset in order to connect your stove to your ceiling box unless you move the stove. An offset if two bends with a straight section between them. The first bend attaches to the ceiling box and the second bend is above the stove at a height determined by the geometery.

What you have is a failure to communicate with your insurance company. They had a problem with something, the horizontal clearance, and ONE solution was that goofy tee setup. There are smarter ways to accomplish the goal and solve their problem.


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## Sprinter (Jan 11, 2013)

Just a few thoughts.

1. With good burning habits, you won't need seamless pipe, although double wall pipe would be much better because it will stay above creosote temps longer.

2. You're getting a double whammy with wood that's probably too damp (have you measured a fresh split yet?) plus the air control too low for the conditions.

3. If the offset was needed to clear ceiling joists or rafters (not sure), then using two 45 offsets would probably be a better solution, although having a straight cleanout access sounds useful.

4. You probably will be fine with the current setup with good, dry wood and better burning methods. I'm sure that next year with better wood and more experience with the stove will be much better.


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## northernontario (Jan 11, 2013)

It's a shame they don't make a cleanout "Y" instead of T.  Have the incoming pipe enter at 45° (/) instead of 90° (-)... In this setup, it would allow for two 45° bends, instead of two 90° bends in the piping.


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## corey21 (Jan 11, 2013)

northernontario said:


> It's a shame they don't make a cleanout "Y" instead of T. Have the incoming pipe enter at 45° (/) instead of 90° (-)... In this setup, it would allow for two 45° bends, instead of two 90° bends in the piping.


Yes i agree that setup is slowing down the gases. That i think is part of the issue.


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## scooby074 (Jan 19, 2013)

Great info guys. Thanks.

Today I had some time to kill so I went to get current prices on a new PE Summit (I hate my current stove, it doesnt really produce heat and although it should heat my house, it fails). My friend has a summit and it heats his house fine, and his house is bigger, and even more important his wood is poplar and very wet (just cut and delivered this fall). So I know it is a good brand and does well with questionable wood. It's been in my upgrade plans since last year.

Also looked at an Enerzone, which Im going to do more research on.

Anyways, while there I talked to the saleswoman about my ongoing creosote situation. Like most here, she thinks one major issue is that 90* and the T. She also suggested a "straight up" design for the pipe to have the best draft. And I should be running double wall because that is all they use in their installs.

Great I say, Ill upgrade the current stove to a straight through double wall. Then if I get the Pacific, I'll just reuse it... That was until she told me that a 5' piece of telescopic double wall was $155.00

Is that a good price? Seems real high to me. I figured under a hundred for sure. Im going to do some comparison shopping monday. Is it a worthwhile upgrade? Will it make a difference? Will i get more heat from the stove and less creosote? Is one brand better than the other and is it worth the additional cost?


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## northwinds (Jan 19, 2013)

scooby074 said:


> Great I say, Ill upgrade the current stove to a straight through double wall. Then if I get the Pacific, I'll just reuse it... That was until she told me that a 5' piece of telescopic double wall was $155.00
> 
> Is that a good price? Seems real high to me. I figured under a hundred for sure. Im going to do some comparison shopping monday. Is it a worthwhile upgrade? Will it make a difference? Will i get more heat from the stove and less creosote? Is one brand better than the other and is it worth the additional cost?


 
I don't know if it's a good deal or not.  By all means, shop around. Having said that, you will have a much cleaner install.  With seasoned wood and a clean install, you'll be amazed at how little creosote there will be.  $155 is probably less than a sweep is going to charge to scrape off that black shiny stuff.  The telescopic pipe makes things much easier for chimney cleaning. 

On the new stove issue, Summits are nice stoves, but I don't know any modern stove that is forgiving for wet wood.  Some people burn with wet wood anyway, but seasoned wood causes most "stove isn't producing heat" problems to go away.


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## HotCoals (Jan 19, 2013)

That install with the pipe is not all that strange..if most of it was outside the house.
.


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## begreen (Jan 20, 2013)

Before replacing the stove I would replace the pipe. That double 90 is slowing down draft unnecessarily. I would replace it with straight up double-wall, with a telescoping section to facilitate cleaning. Even if you upgrade I would do this, but you might as well do it now and see if that helps the Napoleon perform up to expectations.


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## scooby074 (Jan 20, 2013)

begreen said:


> Before replacing the stove I would replace the pipe. That double 90 is slowing down draft unnecessarily. I would replace it with straight up double-wall, with a telescoping section to facilitate cleaning. Even if you upgrade I would do this, but you might as well do it now and see if that helps the Napoleon perform up to expectations.


 
Yeah, thats the plan. Between the advise I got here and the sales woman, I think a straight pipe will help. On top of that, it will be reusable.

If I go with a straight shot, this will require moving the stove out from the corner approx 1' (the horizontal distance of the 90* and the T). Right now I have the stove tucked in as close as recommended to the corner so it's out of the way. Is there any benefit to moving the stove out? Maybe better airflow?

Are their any brands of pipe that are better? All that I know that's available locally is Selkirk Superpipe.http://www.selkirkcorp.com/supervent/Product.aspx?id=58 If I go out of town there may be other, perhaps better options, but I need to know what to look for.

Is it better to have a single, long telescoping pipe, or a short non-movable pipe with a short telescoping section attached?

With a straight pipe, is there any way to have an easy access cleanout like I have with the T now?


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## rideau (Jan 20, 2013)

What  company manufactured your chimney?  I'd stick with the same brand, because it will fit properly. 

One long adjustable piece should be all you need.  They are easy to clean.  just disconnect, atach a plastic bag to ceiling support, cut slit in upper side of bag for brush, and clean from below.  Take the adjustable pipe outside, clean well.  Remove bag and throw out (no mess).  Reinstall pipe.  Simple.


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## begreen (Jan 20, 2013)

For double wall you will want to match the chimney brand of pipe. It looks like your chimney may be Supervent. If so you will need a chimney pipe adapter (JSC6ASE) which may already be in place to connect the single wall connector. Then connect with Selkirk DSP pipe. You have given the link for the correct pipe in your posting.

How much chimney pipe is there from the ceiling to the top cap?

Note: if they are selling you the 38"to 68" double-wall for $150, they are giving you a good price, comparable to online pricing.


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## tlc1976 (Jan 20, 2013)

My ex wife would choke the fire to turn it off too. I tried to tell her that was the one thing that would load up the chimney like nothing else. Because it was. If you can start with a clean pipe and burn small hot fires rather than choking it down, the pipe will stay clean longer.

But I do have some air leaks due to using the split pipe in the house that every store around here sells for woodstoves. Before next season I plan to put in some seamless pipe. I also keep a fan running on high to push the hot air out of the corner and I would think that prematurely cools the pipe too and promotes buildup but I really don't have a choice there.  I still get some buildup and yes I get the glaze which looks like gloss black paint. I have to clean the pipe every few weeks and when I clean it, the chimney part is not bad but the house pipe is horrible. And yes once the buildup starts, further buildup snowballs. I am always tapping on the pipe to listen to if it is a hollow ring (clean) or a dead thud (dirty) and that is what I go by for cleaning.

I used to use Rutland Creosote remover in the fire which did help make the glaze easier to remove with the brush. But what I have found that works even a little better is Meeco Creosote Destroyer. Looks and priced similar but is more powdery than grainy and actually contains different ingredients.


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## BobUrban (Jan 20, 2013)

Put the stove directly under the pipe and go DBL wall up to the thimble.  I have the same set-up more or less in my living room and clan from the bottom up.  The stove does not need to go completely out or cold, just down to about 100 degrees.  The pipe telescopes so you just remove 3 screws and pull it down a couple inches and remove the pipe.   Run your brush up and bonk the cap a couple times - back down and your done.  Use the box the brush head comes in with a little hole in it to catch all the chimney dust.  I poked a hole and put duct tape over it so my rods are going through a duct tape squeegy so to speak.  As I said, I am in my living room and the mess is minimal and quick to vaccuum up.  No need to remove the baffles - just put t he vaccuum in there and pick up any creo or dust build up. 

After a few runs I can do it in 1/3hr or so and be back running hot is less than an hr.  Just seems like a simple fix to all the issues except the wet wood.  My Dura Vent telescoping pipe cost around $200.00 shipped to my door and is simple to install.


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## JessicaL (Jan 23, 2013)

I was just like your wife until a few weeks ago - terrified of a chimney fire.  That's because we had a fire last January, and it was one of the scariest things I've ever experienced.

Insurance paid for a new wood insert and new sleeve up the existing fireplace chimney.  (FYI, our chimney also had two 90 degree angles in it, which the install guy and insurance agent said was a huge no-no, and against code here in NY.  So I agree with the other responses that that should be replaced with either straight or 45's.)

Until a few weeks ago, I was always shutting down the damper when we hit 300 degrees, out of pure terror.  And my husband was letting me get away with it!!  Plus our wood wasn't the best.  

A few weeks ago we had the chimney cleaned and it was full of scary gunk.

So I've done a LOT of research in recent weeks, including coming here for some awesome advice.

What I've learned, loud and clear, is this:  The hotter the fire, the SAFER you are!! 

It seemed counter-intuitive to me, but once I researched everything it made perfect sense.  

Please tell your wife that I used to be just like her....terrified.  And she needs to either take your word for this, or get on the Internet and this forum, and research it for herself.  Or have her talk to the folks at the hearth store or the chimney sweep - ours was very informative and really helped to put me at ease.

FYI, when our chimney looked about as gunky as yours, we simply didn't burn at all until we had it cleaned.  I think your wife is right that a hot fire right now, with that much creosote, could spark a nasty fire.  Just my .02....


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## firefighterjake (Jan 23, 2013)

JessicaL said:


> I was just like your wife until a few weeks ago - terrified of a chimney fire. That's because we had a fire last January, and it was one of the scariest things I've ever experienced.
> 
> Insurance paid for a new wood insert and new sleeve up the existing fireplace chimney. (FYI, our chimney also had two 90 degree angles in it, which the install guy and insurance agent said was a huge no-no, and against code here in NY. So I agree with the other responses that that should be replaced with either straight or 45's.)
> 
> ...


 
Well yes and no . . . a hot fire is good . . . but there is such a thing as being too hot. I prefer to take the "Goldilocks" approach and not burn too cool or too hot . . . but just right. Hot enough to reduce the amount of creosote being produced and the "really bad" creosote . . . but not so hot as to ignite any creosote that does build up.

Of course running the stove at the right temp is only half of the equation . . . the other half is burning well seasoned wood . . . and then the other "half" () is inspecting and cleaning the chimney on a regular basis. Folks that inspect and maintain the chimney, burn seasoned wood and run the stove at the right temps have a dramatically reduced chance of seeing me or any of my brothers or sisters at 3 in the morning.


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