# Replacement for a Stihl 025



## ailanthus (May 21, 2016)

My saw's in the shop right now, they'll be testing the ignition coil and that's a $120 part (OEM) if it's bad - along with some other repairs they recommended, I may be looking at replacing it.  Size, power & cost-wise I have always been satisfied with the 025 would be happy replacing it with a 250 if necessary, also I could use the bars & chains that I've already got.

But, I'm also open to spending a bit more or switching brands for something that'll last.  Honestly, I'll be a little disappointed in the lifespan of the 025 if I'm not able to repair it for a reasonable amount.  What are the consensus best-made saws out there right now?  And no, I won't be spending $700+ on a pro saw, I cut 4-5 cords per year for my own use so no need to go overboard.  Any suggestions?


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## ailanthus (May 21, 2016)

Actually I just noticed I can get a coil for less than $15 on ebay.  Are the imported parts junk or is that worth trying?


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## woodhog73 (May 21, 2016)

I have no idea if imported parts are junk or not but if you can fix it for $15 why not give it a try ? Not much risk in spending $15 especially if the rest of the saw is still in good condition.

Also you don't need to spend $700 on a pro saw. Plenty of excellent 50cc pro saws out there in different brands for $450 to $500. Used ones for $250 to $350. A new Stihl 250 which I think is discontinued now is $300 to $350.

As for suggestions you asked for with budget in mind these saws are well under $500 (probably closer to $400).......and conventional pro construction
Husky 545,
Jonsered 2252,
Dolmar 510 or Dolmar 5105,
Also good value in used versions of those saws, also lots of good used Stihl 026 I see on CL all the time.


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## dougand3 (May 21, 2016)

+1 on get an AM coil. Heck, you can get carb, intake boot, plug, fuel line, gaskets and coil for $16. Loads of AM parts are made for 025/MS250....and they are cheap.


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## TreePointer (May 21, 2016)

Bars:  bars will be compatible if new saw is a Stihl bar mount pattern of THE SAME SIZE.  You also have to ensure the new saw's drive sprocket is the same pitch as the bar's tip sprocket.

Chains:  If old bars are compatible, then old chains will be compatible.  If you go with another saw brand, the chains will work if you match pitch, gauge and number of drive links (DL).  The exception is if the chains are narrow kerf (NK) and the new bar is standard kerf--that won't work.

Your 025 is a 45cc saw with rubber spacers for antivibration protection, and it weighs a little over 10 lbs (empty powerhead only).  If you decide to get another saw, I'd make sure to opt for a model with spring antivibration.


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## ailanthus (May 22, 2016)

Thanks guys, I have a carb/coil/fuel line kit on order.  Hopefully that will take care of it, I always hate replacing something that's 95% good, just because it needs a part or two.


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## StihlKicking (May 28, 2016)

I think your doing the right thing by fixing the 025, especially if you can do it for less than $100. If you buy a new saw look at the ms261/260. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## D8Chumley (May 29, 2016)

I picked up a very clean low hour MS261 C-M 18" bar was a little rough, but for $400 shipped. Look at the classifieds over at AS there's always saws for sale. I got a few new chains and dressed the bar and it's a beast of a saw!


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## CTYank (May 29, 2016)

For the same $ as a ms-25x you can get a Dolmar 421, a pro-quality saw with serious power output. Way better buy.
You have lots of options beyond creamsicles.


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## WoodMann (May 30, 2016)

Just got myself a Stihl ms251 and swear by it with a yellow full chisel chain. BTW, they dull up kinda quick when I'm cutting dirty, is there such thing as a yellow/ non safety semi- chisel out there.................


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## D8Chumley (May 30, 2016)

WoodMann said:


> Just got myself a Stihl ms251 and swear by it with a yellow full chisel chain. BTW, they dull up kinda quick when I'm cutting dirty, is there such thing as a yellow/ non safety semi- chisel out there.................


I use semi chisel because the wood I cut is never clean enough to warrant full chisel since it dulls quicker


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## woodhog73 (May 30, 2016)

CTYank said:


> For the same $ as a ms-25x you can get a Dolmar 421, a pro-quality saw with serious power output. Way better buy.
> You have lots of options beyond creamsicles.



Totally agree. Dolmar 421 magnesium case pro saw for roughly $300 bucks. Made in Germany. Very hard to beat for a small saw.

Husky 545 and Jonsered 2252 pro 50cc saws for less or around the same money as a Stihl MS291. 10.5 lbs pro built magnesium case auto tune saw easily outcut something like a 290/291. And at  $400 -$450 bucks roughly they are hard to beat for how much saw you get for that amount of money. 

I still have Stihl saws, and other products and like them. But honestly they are a tad over priced in my opinion and the fit, finish, and quality feel of the newer generation  pro saws does seem lower than their Swedish counterparts ( Husky and Jonsered) pro versions.

I've got some older Stihl saws from the 70s and they impress me more from a quality stand point than the newer saws.

Just my opinion obviously ! I still own a few Stihls and like them


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## woodhog73 (May 30, 2016)

WoodMann said:


> Just got myself a Stihl ms251 and swear by it with a yellow full chisel chain. BTW, they dull up kinda quick when I'm cutting dirty, is there such thing as a yellow/ non safety semi- chisel out there.................




I'm assuming your using .325 on your ms251. Yes there is non safety chain that's semi chisel in .325

Stihl RM rapid micro is semi chisel in .325 labeled yellow

Forester also makes a semi in .325 that's non safety as well. Probably half the cost of the Stihl chain but not sure really. 

I'm sure there's more out there


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## TreePointer (May 31, 2016)

Some Stihl chain models:

RM   = semi-chisel (yellow)
RM*3* = semi-chisel, low-kickback (green)

RS   = chisel (yellow)
RS*3* = chisel, low-kickback (green)

See the theme here?  The low-kickback (green) chain has a "3" added to the model name.  Make sure the dealer gives you the chain without the "3" if you want regular ("professional") chain.  Some nanny dealers go out of their way to push green chain to everyone.


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## woodhog73 (May 31, 2016)

TreePointer said:


> Some nanny dealers go out of their way to push green chain to everyone.



You must have the same dealers as I do. Had a Stihl dealer question what a depth raker guage was when I asked him if he had one , and looked at me funny when I told him what it was far. 

Either this guy had zero chainsaw experience or he just assumed everyone buys a new chain when the rakers are too high and the chain no longer cuts no matter how sharp it is. Was a Stihl dealer in a metro city area probably deals with very occasional users who don't sharpen their own chains but doesn't matter should still know what a raker guage is !

I run my chain down to almost nothing before I put a new one on.


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## Babaganoosh (May 31, 2016)

D8Chumley said:


> I picked up a very clean low hour MS261 C-M 18" bar was a little rough, but for $400 shipped. Look at the classifieds over at AS there's always saws for sale. I got a few new chains and dressed the bar and it's a beast of a saw!



That's how I'd do it. I'd go for the cheap fix on your current saw and look for a 026.

Might even look for an 036 for a little more oomph when I needed it.


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## WoodMann (May 31, 2016)

Cool guys- I've found a couple of the hallowed RMs but different link count- so I'm still digging..........


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## CTYank (May 31, 2016)

D8Chumley said:


> I use semi chisel because the wood I cut is never clean enough to warrant full chisel since it dulls quicker


Only reason I'm still using some full-chisel 3/8" chains on some saws- I want to wear them out (slowly, of course) and then transition to the loops of semi-chisel I've spun. It's been my experience that in *any *sort of wood semi-chisel "holds an edge" way longer than full-chisel. When full-chisel "goes off" it's like someone hit a switch- BANG.
You're not limited to stihl chains, you know. All you need to know is the gauge, pitch and # of D.L. to go shopping for pre-made loops on Bailey's or Frawleys (www-dot-loggerchain-dot-com) or wherever you please, to see what chains are available, at GOOD prices. I've had no probs with Oregon or "WoodlandPro", which AFAIK is "Carlton" chain (another division of Blount). Again, I incline there to semi-chisel for simple durability. And ... I always take a filing guide with me, to touch up the cutters a stroke or two every other fillup, as possible. Good to slow the pulse-rate.


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## D8Chumley (Jun 1, 2016)

The shop I go to is a Mennonite family business, good honest people. They sell Carlton chains buy 2 get 1 free. They work good enough for what I do and the price is nice


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## WoodMann (Jun 2, 2016)

Hey guys- yeah, I've been thru a few Oregon full chisels; just as stated they sign off rather abruptly, but sure is a pleasure as long as they're sharp.........


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## WoodMann (Jun 4, 2016)

Hey guys- in my digging around I find DL, RD and the like; what does all this mean? On another note, after someone hiding my saw on me I was that close to buying something off ebay and stumbled on a gently used MS250 with a 16" bar for $193. Fortunately I found my 251 B4 dropping the hammer, but there's good stuff out there..............


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## TreePointer (Jun 4, 2016)

WoodMann said:


> Hey guys- in my digging around I find DL, RD and the like; what does all this mean?



DL = should mean "Drive Links."  The number of drive links in a chain loop. When purchasing a chain, DL of the chain should match the number of DL specified on the bar you are using.

RD could mean a lot of things.  Possibly "Raker Depth."  Oregon does make an "RD" chain that is used for ripping (sawing lumber/boards).


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## WoodMann (Jun 6, 2016)

Cool- thanks, well I got my hands on an RM chain, yellow link after all..............


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## Jazzberry (Jun 8, 2016)

ailanthus said:


> My saw's in the shop right now, they'll be testing the ignition coil and that's a $120 part (OEM) if it's bad - along with some other repairs they recommended, I may be looking at replacing it.  Size, power & cost-wise I have always been satisfied with the 025 would be happy replacing it with a 250 if necessary, also I could use the bars & chains that I've already got.
> 
> But, I'm also open to spending a bit more or switching brands for something that'll last.  Honestly, I'll be a little disappointed in the lifespan of the 025 if I'm not able to repair it for a reasonable amount.  What are the consensus best-made saws out there right now?  And no, I won't be spending $700+ on a pro saw, I cut 4-5 cords per year for my own use so no need to go overboard.  Any suggestions?




Start looking for a good used 026 / 260. Around 250.00 plus or minus depending on your luck. It will most likely be the last saw you will want or need.


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## woodhog73 (Jun 8, 2016)

Jazzberry said:


> Start looking for a good used 026 / 260. Around 250.00 plus or minus depending on your luck. It will most likely be the last saw you will want or need.



Also if you want to be in the $250 price range ( and want options) for an older used pro saw and are considering other brands look at either a Husky 346xp or it's red equivalent the Jonsered 2153.  I see them for around $250 used on CL. 

As someone who owned a Stihl 260 and sold it and has run the 346xp I can tell you they stack up fairly similiar. Can't go wrong with either if your looking for a used firewood saw in that $250 range. 

The Husky versions sell quick so call on it the second you spot it. The Jreds don't sell as well but are the same saw.  Also probably the last saw you will want or need.


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## WoodMann (Jun 11, 2016)

Chain question; with regard to the full chisel signing off abruptly, it's been my experience that they also gum up quickly when cutting pitchy wood- that's having experience with a full chisel going on 6 weeks now. Would that be a correct observation.............


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## Jon1270 (Jun 11, 2016)

WoodMann said:


> Chain question; with regard to the full chisel signing off abruptly, it's been my experience that they also gum up quickly when cutting pitchy wood- that's having experience with a full chisel going on 6 weeks now. Would that be a correct observation.............



I haven't cut that much pine, but I can't think of a reason that a chisel chain would accumulate pitch any faster than a semi-chisel.  Is your oiler working properly?


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## WoodMann (Jun 11, 2016)

Chain question; with regard to the full chisel signing off abruptly, it's been my experience that they also gum up quickly when cutting pitchy wood- that's having experience with a full chisel going on 6 weeks now. Would that be a correct observation.............


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## woodhog73 (Jun 11, 2016)

It has a lot to do with the saws ability to dispel chips.

Example. My Jonsered 2166/2172 and my Stihl 661 get rid of chips fast. Ultra fast and are great noodlers. Both saws perform top notch with full chisel chains in all conditions.

My vintage but strong running Stihl 031 and ported screaming like on steroids ported Jonsered 2252 both using outboard clutches gum up quicker with stuck wood chips. My Jred Is a very strong small saw but noddles like crap and gums up fast and over oils to boot making it worse. Both are terrible noodlers but neither saw is built to noodle. They are firewood saws. 

It's really got nothing to do with chain type. Either your oiler isn't working correct or it's your saws design.

What saw are we talking about ?


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## WoodMann (Jun 13, 2016)

have the oiler cranked out good, coming to think of it I've started using old automotive oil, thinner grade- starting to think that's the problem 5W30 instead of straight 30wt

P.S. BTW- if yer in a pinch
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STIHL-MS250...1e798b1&pid=100033&rk=5&rkt=8&sd=191891852205


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