# Stihl 011



## Freeheat (Apr 15, 2012)

A buddy of mine gave me a 011av , Its dirty  from sitting in the barn for a few years. He said that there was no compression, I pulled it over and It seems pretty good on compression. I figure a carb rebuild and a new chain and  I might be back in business. Is there anything I should be looking for???


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## MasterMech (Apr 15, 2012)

Pull the muffler and look at the side of the piston/cyl for scoring.  Hook it up to a compression tester and get a reading. (Throttle open, choke off/open)  Could always give it a small shot of carb cleaner down the intake.   If it fires then dies then it may be worth cleaning the carb/rebuilding.


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## surviverguy (Apr 16, 2012)

A compression test with a gauge is best. Sometimes I just put my thumb over the sparkplug hole after removing the plug and give it a pull. If my thumb is pushed off the hole then compression is good enough to run. It's not as accurite as a gauge for sure. With a gauge installed look for a minimum of 100 psi to run (weak), 130-150 normal 150-170 high. While the plug is out, I like to check for spark by grounding the sparkplug. I put some (a few drops) of light oil in the sparkplug hole while the plug is out also. The oil lubricates the cylinder walls and piston rings. A little oil in there doesn't hurt anything. The oil gets burned off pretty quick once it starts running again. I clean the air filter if needed. At that point all thats left is the fuel system....filter, fuel line, vent and carb. and clean fuel with mix of course At that point I buy carb kit and a fuel filter and fuel lines if suspect. The carb kit and fuel filter may be not needed, but I like to put the kit in because I can clean the insides while I'm in there and it'll run a long time without trouble with the newly rebuilt carb. The old fuel filter can be (kind of) cleaned out with carb cleaner, but I prefer a new filter. She'll run at that point and just need fine fine tuning L/H + idle adjust.


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## DexterDay (Apr 17, 2012)

Got any pics?  Any saw for free can be a good saw....


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## Freeheat (Apr 18, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> Got any pics? Any saw for free can be a good saw.... [/quote
> 
> Hey Dexter here are some pics, The neighbors must think I'm crazy in my shed @ 5:20 in the am
> 
> JIM


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## Freeheat (Apr 18, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> Got any pics? Any saw for free can be a good saw....


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## DexterDay (Apr 18, 2012)

Nice.....


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## Freeheat (Apr 18, 2012)

after a quick compression test I now know why it don't run highest reading................................................50 lbs........................
Is it worth a rebuild for a spare saw?? Is a aftermarket piston and jug an option


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## DexterDay (Apr 18, 2012)

Never looked up that Saw. But my 036 has a Rebuild kit (jug, head, piston, bearing, seals, for around $79. 

Gonna check ebay real quick.... 

(EDIT: Just checked and there is a ring only kit for under $11.00, a piston and ring kit for under $30, and a replacement jug (cylinder) that was used for less than $25. So if it only needs Rings to restore compression?  For that kind of money, I would. Gonna be a little work on your end, but well worth it. IMO. Have you checked the cylinder?  Remove muffler? Check for scouring. )


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## Freeheat (Apr 18, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> Never looked up that Saw. But my 036 has a Rebuild kit (jug, head, piston, bearing, seals, for around $79.
> 
> Gonna check ebay real quick....
> 
> (EDIT: Just checked and there is a ring only kit for under $11.00, a piston and ring kit for under $30, and a replacement jug (cylinder) that was used for less than $25. So if it only needs Rings to restore compression? For that kind of money, I would. Gonna be a little work on your end, but well worth it. IMO. Have you checked the cylinder? Remove muffler? Check for scouring. )


 
Not yet thats this weekends project


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## DexterDay (Apr 18, 2012)

es332 said:


> Not yet thats this weekends project



Well... If the cylinder looks good? Then I would spend the $15 (shipping?? Forgot to look at that?) and throw the rings in it. Maybe even Re-Hone the cylinder and out a good cross hatch back on it...


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## Captain Hornet (Apr 18, 2012)

Gentlemen, I have a 011 and it has been a very good saw. The dealer told me that it was important to have the run carb settings right because if the saw was run lean it would burn the piston. .  I have used it mostly for limbing and have been very happy with it.  They also made a  009 saw that looks exactly like the  011  but I don't know what the differance was.   The 011 was easy to start and would always go with only two pulls.  It's a good saw and I hope you get yours running.   David


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## MasterMech (Apr 18, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> Well... If the cylinder looks good? Then I would spend the $15 (shipping?? Forgot to look at that?) and throw the rings in it. Maybe even Re-Hone the cylinder and out a good cross hatch back on it...


 
I wouldn't hone that cylinder unless there's aluminum transfer on it.  Way too easy to do more harm than good.  These cylinders usually have a nikasil (silicon nitride?) coating inside that is very thin.  Once you eat through the coatng with the hone then the cylinder is junk.  Unless there is a heavy glaze on the cyl, the new rings should break in just fine.


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## Freeheat (Apr 19, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> I wouldn't hone that cylinder unless there's aluminum transfer on it. Way too easy to do more harm than good. These cylinders usually have a nikasil (silicon nitride?) coating inside that is very thin. Once you eat through the coatng with the hone then the cylinder is junk. Unless there is a heavy glaze on the cyl, the new rings should break in just fine.


 
Mastermech just re-ring it or new piston and rings?


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## DexterDay (Apr 19, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> I wouldn't hone that cylinder unless there's aluminum transfer on it.  Way too easy to do more harm than good.  These cylinders usually have a nikasil (silicon nitride?) coating inside that is very thin.  Once you eat through the coatng with the hone then the cylinder is junk.  Unless there is a heavy glaze on the cyl, the new rings should break in just fine.


I was thinking that it may be old enough to not have the nikasil coated cylinder. Although I am not positive when exactly Stihl started to use it? But you are likely correct. I was thinking this Saw is close to 30 yrs old. 

Es332- If the cylinder is in good shape (no gouging, glazing, ring lip, etc) then a simple ring kit may be enough to bring life back to the saw. For under $30 the piston and ring kit is also a good deal. This will take Skirt Slop out of the equation. Then possibly a carb rebuild kit (cheap), if it needs it.

It could cost $15 and time to sharpen the chain. Or it may be substantially more. All depends on cylinder condition and your restraint from buying new "goodies" for it (shiny new bar and chain, air filter, plug, etc).


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## Freeheat (Apr 19, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> I was thinking that it may be old enough to not have the nikasil coated cylinder. Although I am not positive when exactly Stihl started to use it? But you are likely correct. I was thinking this Saw is close to 30 yrs old.
> 
> Es332- If the cylinder is in good shape (no gouging, glazing, ring lip, etc) then a simple ring kit may be enough to bring life back to the saw. For under $30 the piston and ring kit is also a good deal. This will take Skirt Slop out of the equation. Then possibly a carb rebuild kit (cheap), if it needs it.
> 
> It could cost $15 and time to sharpen the chain. Or it may be substantially more. All depends on cylinder condition and your restraint from buying new "goodies" for it (shiny new bar and chain, air filter, plug, etc).


 
Thanks I will  find out saturday night If its fixable


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## MasterMech (Apr 19, 2012)

es332 said:


> Mastermech just re-ring it or new piston and rings?


 
Depends on the condition of the piston. If it measures out good and there's no scuffing, then just re-ring it.



DexterDay said:


> I was thinking that it may be old enough to not have the nikasil coated cylinder. Although I am not positive when exactly Stihl started to use it? But you are likely correct. I was thinking this Saw is close to 30 yrs old.
> 
> Es332- If the cylinder is in good shape (no gouging, glazing, ring lip, etc) then a simple ring kit may be enough to bring life back to the saw. For under $30 the piston and ring kit is also a good deal. This will take Skirt Slop out of the equation. Then possibly a carb rebuild kit (cheap), if it needs it.
> 
> It could cost $15 and time to sharpen the chain. Or it may be substantially more. All depends on cylinder condition and your restraint from buying new "goodies" for it (shiny new bar and chain, air filter, plug, etc).


 
Nikasil plating has been around a looooong time. Snowmobile boys might be able to pin it down better but I remember seeing engines from the 70's with it. I had an '84 Jaguar 440 with nikasil cylinders.


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## Fifelaker (Apr 20, 2012)

Muratic acid on a Q-tip works wonders on aluminum transfer. Well ventilated room, gloves rinse with water. A warm cylinder works better also then 400 grit wet/dry with water or oil. After you get it all off if you can't feel any scratches above the ports with your fingernail or a pick the cyl is good to go. Post pics if you can. If only the exhaust side is scored find the reason ie: no mix,air leak. A vac pressure test should be done.


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## HittinSteel (Apr 20, 2012)

Turn the cylinder upside down and without the rings, drop the piston in the cylinder. Does it fall like a lead ballon? If so you need a new piston and rings.


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## Freeheat (Apr 20, 2012)

Called a Stihl dealer and they said go buy a new saw parts are 170 + tax I might treat this thing like a christmas fruit cake and re- gift


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## DexterDay (Apr 20, 2012)

es332 said:


> Called a Stihl dealer and they said go buy a new saw parts are 170 + tax I might treat this thing like a christmas fruit cake and re- gift



What "parts" are those?


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## Freeheat (Apr 20, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> What "parts" are those?


 
they told me the piston and ring comes with a new cylinder, I have to tear down this weekend and find out what i need, I like the idea of new piston and rings for 30.00


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## HittinSteel (Apr 20, 2012)

When rebuilding a saw, stay away from the crazy OEM prices, especially from Stihl. See if Meteor makes a piston for the 011.....they are very high quality at a fraction of the cost.


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## StihlHead (Apr 20, 2012)

Fifelaker said:


> Muratic acid on a Q-tip works wonders on aluminum transfer. Well ventilated room, gloves rinse with water. A warm cylinder works better also then 400 grit wet/dry with water or oil. After you get it all off if you can't feel any scratches above the ports with your fingernail or a pick the cyl is good to go. Post pics if you can. If only the exhaust side is scored find the reason ie: no mix,air leak. A vac pressure test should be done.


 
Good advice here. I would add that the best and easiest way to improve compression is to replace the rings. Often times they get spongey or sticky and do not expand as well as they should and compression drops. They are also cheap and easy to replace. I get mine from a guy on Ebay that ships them from Greece; they are Cebre rings. That guy sells them for the 011 AV. Oh, and if you do pull the P&C on the 011, some preliminary advice here: be prepared when you take off the cylinder, the piston rod easilly moves to one side and all the roller bearings from the crank/rod will fall into the bottom of the crankcase. The bearings have a lot of slop from side to in the crank/rod compared to newer saws.

On older Stihl saws it is also best to replace the impulse line. Chances are that on an older AV style saw the impulse line is cracked, broken off, or leaks. They are long line tubes in those saws. My local Stihl dealers are not stocking parts for these older saws any more. Also places like Baileys do not carry many parts for these older saws either. For that reason I got rid of my older style Stihl saws; an 009 and 020. They are reasonable saws, but they are heavy and vibration prone, and hard to get parts for. I cannot find any aftermarket P&C sets for the 011 AV. Pistons and rings, yes; cylinders, no. OEM 011 kits on Ebay (Mahle) are $150. You can get a good used 011 AV for far less than that, typically they are listed for around $50 on Ebay. I do NOT advise buying saws on Ebay... (many horror stories there).

Also as for OEM parts being spendy on Stihl saws, note that Mahle and Stihl OEM piston and cylinder kits will likely last 2x as long as aftermarket ones. Like 2,000 hours instead of 1,000 hours. If that is not an issue, then get the aftermarket parts. Meteors are supposed to make good aftermarket P&C parts in Stihl saws.


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## Freeheat (Apr 20, 2012)

HittinSteel said:


> When rebuilding a saw, stay away from the crazy OEM prices, especially from Stihl. See if Meteor makes a piston for the 011.....they are very high quality at a fraction of the cost.


 
I called Baileys for that piston and ring set they said only OEM  Is there anyone that sells it that I can trust ?


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## Freeheat (Apr 20, 2012)

AHHHH The power of BEER Torn It down ( not a hard job) The piston is scored but the cyl is in awsome shape 1 piston and rings couple of gaskets and new fuel lines I should be back in business


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## HittinSteel (Apr 20, 2012)

If Baileys doesnt have it then there must not be a meteor. Your only choice might be a ching chong on ebay. Which for $30 might not be optimal, but since you got the saw for free could be worth it. If I was looking for a little project and a backup saw, I'd do it.


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## HittinSteel (Apr 20, 2012)

es332 said:


> AHHHH The power of BEER Torn It down ( not a hard job) The piston is scored but the cyl is in awsome shape 1 piston and rings couple of gaskets and new fuel lines I should be back in business


 
Just a word of caution.... looks like some aluminum has left the piston. Are you sure the cylinder is okay as is? I just hate to see you throw a piston in there and have it scored again. Can you get some pictures of the cylinder?


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## DexterDay (Apr 20, 2012)

HittinSteel said:


> Just a word of caution.... looks like some aluminum has left the piston. Are you sure the cylinder is okay as is? I just hate to see you throw a piston in there and have it scored again. Can you get some pictures of the cylinder?


Agree. Seems pretty bad...... May not be. But...........


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## StihlHead (Apr 21, 2012)

That piston is certainly fried. Check the cylinder with a bright light and feel for any grooves. Check around the ports for scoring, as that is typically where they get it the worst. I have seen some fried pistons and rings, and the cylinders were OK though.

Trusted places are Madsens (they do not carry 011 parts), Baileys, and.... hmm... no one seems to carry many 011 parts. Pistons seem to be hard to find on those. VEC makes them in India, and they are available on Northwood Saw online. I have no idea about their quality. O/w its Ebay... Lil Red Barn has a piston kit on Ebay and they claim to be better than Chicom stuff, but I have never used them or any non-OEM P&C parts on any of my Stihl saws.


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## Freeheat (Apr 21, 2012)

I put a mag light in the bore and the coating must have saved the cy. I worked in a machine shop for 4 years boring blocks. The piston looks bad I can't find 1 scar on the wall. I found the red barn on e bay and was gonna call today


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## HittinSteel (Apr 21, 2012)

Do you see shiny aluminum transfer on the cylinder wall? If so, you have to get it cleaned off.


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## Freeheat (Apr 21, 2012)

HittinSteel said:


> Do you see shiny aluminum transfer on the cylinder wall? If so, you have to get it cleaned off.


 
not at all I just looked again , I think a new piston and rings I should be good


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## HittinSteel (Apr 21, 2012)

Yep if the bore looks clean, order the piston and rings and away you go!


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## Freeheat (Apr 21, 2012)

35.00 with shipping parts are on the way.


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## StihlHead (Apr 21, 2012)

Well, all will be set right again. With a new p&rings that saw should run fine. Set the carb a tad rich and check/replace the impusle line while you are in there. If I recall right, the impulse line is a long line to the carb. When I replaced my 020AV impulse line, the Stihl dealer did not have that part in stock. So I used a length of clear plastic tubing of the same diameter.


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## Freeheat (Apr 21, 2012)

StihlHead said:


> Well, all will be set right again. With a new p&rings that saw should run fine. Set the carb a tad rich and check/replace the impusle line while you are in there. If I recall right, the impulse line is a long line to the carb. When I replaced my 020AV impulse line, the Stihl dealer did not have that part in stock. So I used a length of clear plastic tubing of the same diameter.


 
Is the impulse line a vent? I saw a line laying in there . What about the reed valve?


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## HittinSteel (Apr 21, 2012)

The impulse line goes from the carb to the cylinder. It allows the carb pump diaphragm to recognize changes in the cylinder pressure and correspondingly, pump fuel. Some saws due not use a line, instead they have passages through the intake block setup.

Do you have the IPL (Internal Parts List) for the saw? If not I may be able to hunt it down for you.


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## Freeheat (Apr 21, 2012)

HittinSteel said:


> The impulse line goes from the carb to the cylinder. It allows the carb pump diaphragm to recognize changes in the cylinder pressure and correspondingly, pump fuel. Some saws due not use a line, instead they have passages through the intake block setup.
> 
> Do you have the IPL (Internal Parts List) for the saw? If not I may be able to hunt it down for you.


 
If you have it that would be great


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## HittinSteel (Apr 22, 2012)

Should be a link in your inbox


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## Freeheat (Apr 22, 2012)

I'll let the guru's On here check  the cyl for  me . Should I hit it with light sand paper and oil before re-assembly


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## MasterMech (Apr 23, 2012)

es332 said:


> I'll let the guru's On here check the cyl for me . Should I hit it with light sand paper and oil before re-assembly


 
No!  Do not take an abrasive to a nikasil coated cylinder.  Especially since you can't get another one!


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## StihlHead (Apr 23, 2012)

Yah, no sanding, honing or cross hatching a Nikasil lined cylinder. Muratic (swimming pool) acid only... oil is good, I use 2 stroke oil during assebly of 2-stroke P&Cs. On 4-strokes I use moly assembly lube.

Most all Stihl saws (including the older 020, 009, 011 models) have impulse lines to drive the fule pump in the carbs. The line runs from a stub at the cylinder base to a stub on the carb, or a stub on the carb mount plate that has a hole to the carb through the gasket. On the early model 020AV the line was about 8 inches long and ran all though the center of the saw. They are critical to the saw working properly.


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## Freeheat (Apr 23, 2012)

StihlHead said:


> Yah, no sanding, honing or cross hatching a Nikasil lined cylinder. Muratic (swimming pool) acid only... oil is good, I use 2 stroke oil during assebly of 2-stroke P&Cs. On 4-strokes I use moly assembly lube.
> 
> Most all Stihl saws (including the older 020, 009, 011 models) have impulse lines to drive the fule pump in the carbs. *The line runs from a stub at the cylinder base to a stub on the carb, or a stub on the carb mount plate that has a hole to the carb through the gasket*. On the early model 020AV the line was about 8 inches long and ran all though the center of the saw. They are critical to the saw working properly.


 
There was no line hooked up to the cylinder , Also all the schmatics show the jug with a base plate this one dosen't have that

Should I give it a bath in acid and how strong should be used to prevent additional damage?


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## HittinSteel (Apr 23, 2012)

Muriatic acid is only used to specifically target the aluminum transfer.....which you don't have. So skip the acid.

Also, there is no reason to light wet sand with oil because you have no aluminum transfer(I'll disagree with the others as it works well on stubborn aluminum and will not remove the nikasil)


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## StihlHead (Apr 23, 2012)

Sorry, I do not have an IPL for the 009, but it seems that on Stihl 009 model saws with Walbro WA carbs, the impulse pressure/vacuum is fed thru the engine case to a mounting flange on the carb. So on some model 009 saws, there is no impulse line to mess with. Which is a good thing.

No need for an acid wash on that cylinder. That looks real clean. Fit in the new piston and rings, and fire it up. Make sure you tune the carb so you do not re-fry that piston running it too lean. With a clean plug, clean air filter, clean exhaust screen and fresh gas, set the H and L and idle. Most of the 009 carbs have H & L setting screws, but not all of them have H screws (supposedly some have fixed H jets). I do not have the RPM numbers for the carb settings, as I do not have the manual for that saw either.


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## MasterMech (Apr 23, 2012)

StihlHead said:


> Sorry, I do not have an IPL for the 009, but it seems that on Stihl 009 model saws with Walbro WA carbs, the impulse pressure/vacuum is fed thru the engine case to a mounting flange on the carb. So on some model 009 saws, there is no impulse line to mess with. Which is a good thing.
> 
> No need for an acid wash on that cylinder. That looks real clean. Fit in the new piston and rings, and fire it up. Make sure you tune the carb so you do not re-fry that piston running it too lean. With a clean plug, clean air filter, clean exhaust screen and fresh gas, set the H and L and idle. Most of the 009 carbs have H & L setting screws, but not all of them have H screws (supposedly some have fixed H jets). I do not have the RPM numbers for the carb settings, as I do not have the manual for that saw either.


 

Stihlhead, the OP's saw is an 011.


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## StihlHead (Apr 24, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Stihlhead, the OP's saw is an 011.


 
Oooops, my bad. Working too much lately, not paying enough attention. 

I do not have an IPL for a 011 either, but I think that saw has the same configuration as many of the 009 saws. There is a reed plate below the carb that houses the reed valve (or 'inlet reed' as Stihl calls them) that flaps during operation. Old school... next to the reed inlet is a small hole that goes to the crankcase and that is the impulse hole. Make sure that it is not blocked or covered with the gasket.


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## Freeheat (Apr 25, 2012)

well was looking at the parts and someone warned me about the bearings ( they fell out).... I now have the case split to replace the needle bearings at the crank I might need some more help putting this thing back together.


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## Freeheat (May 6, 2012)

Trying to do a test assembly and broke the F@#$ing ring wonder if stihl will sell just that


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## fox9988 (May 6, 2012)

ebay has them for about $10.


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## ScotO (May 6, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> Well... If the cylinder looks good? Then I would spend the $15 (shipping?? Forgot to look at that?) and throw the rings in it. Maybe even Re-Hone the cylinder and out a good cross hatch back on it...


worth a rebuild but like MM said, don't hone the cylinder unless you REALLY know what you are doing.  The chrome plating on the cylinder is very very thin, and it is very easy to burn through it.  I would suggest, if needed, some 300 grit wet sand paper and a very VERY light crosshatch sanding done by hand.  That's how I do all my re-rings and i have never had a problem.  I also saw over on AS where muriatic acid is used to remove aluminum transfer.  I wouldn't go that route unless you study it and know what you are doing, that muriatic acid can be some nasty stuff and it puts off some bad sulfur gas when it is eating aluminum.


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## Freeheat (May 9, 2012)

Ok I'm about ready to throw in the towel, can't seem to get a case half gasket and the Stihl dealer said get some gasket material and cut one out, Thats gonna be a pain in the budinski. I have 60 in parts any suggestions????


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## MasterMech (May 9, 2012)

They can't/won't order one for you?


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## StihlHead (May 10, 2012)

Many Stihl dealers here do not carry and can no longer get older AV saw parts. Reason I sold my older Stihls while they were still running. PITA. Planned obsolescence.


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## Freeheat (May 10, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> They can't/won't order one for you?


The only 2 gaskets they show won't fit


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## ScotO (May 10, 2012)

Can you use silicone?  A lot of cases are sealed with silicone, I've never had an 011 apart but I just rebuilt the bottom end on a n 015 the other night and that is how they are sealed.....


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## Crane Stoves (May 10, 2012)

I think any vintage chain saw has value (just watch some old chainsaws on ebay and after bidding closes look at the final prices some of these things are getting!), even as a parts saw im thinking that would sell for a quick 100 bucks! some of the older homelite saws amaze me at what people pay for them o.0 worst case throw that lil' puppie up in the rafters for 30 more years and BOOM....instant collectable


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## MasterMech (May 10, 2012)

Goop it if all else fails.  Go sparingly, use just enough to get 'er done.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/185902.htm


Stihl dealer might have some Dirko he'll sell you.  Pricey stuff tho.


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## Freeheat (May 10, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Goop it if all else fails. Go sparingly, use just enough to get 'er done.
> 
> http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/185902.htm
> 
> ...


 

I have the remenents of the gasket, this weekend I think I'll get some gasket material and give it heck.


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## Freeheat (May 13, 2012)

es332 said:


> I have the remenents of the gasket, this weekend I think I'll get some gasket material and give it heck.


 
Its running and leaking the homemade gasket works kinda along with goop its leaking fuel at the case half , I will take it apart today and see if I can fix it


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## Freeheat (Jun 17, 2012)

Ok guru's I have got the saw back together and It wants to start, All I can get out of it is a short run seems like a fuel problem?


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## ScotO (Jun 17, 2012)

OK, I am assuming you rebuilt the carburetor.  If so, what did you set the initial carburetor settings at?  For primary settings on the carb, you should bottom out both the low mix and high mix screw.  Then back off the low mix screw one full turn, back off the high mix screw one and a quarter turns.  That should get your primary settings close.  You'll have to fine-tune it from there.


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## Freeheat (Jun 17, 2012)

Scotty Overkill said:


> OK, I am assuming you rebuilt the carburetor. If so, what did you set the initial carburetor settings at? For primary settings on the carb, you should bottom out both the low mix and high mix screw. Then back off the low mix screw one full turn, back off the high mix screw one and a quarter turns. That should get your primary settings close. You'll have to fine-tune it from there.


 
Did do a light rebuild on the carb. Sometimes it wil idle for 5 seconds then die If you touch the throtle it dies adjusted the carb scres but just wont idle. pulled the plug and it loaded with fuel, vaccume leak?


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## MasterMech (Jun 17, 2012)

Most likely you have a diaphragm in the carb on the wrong side of a gasket. Check the breakdown in the IPL if you have it. If not, then examine the old parts for impressions that will clue you in as to which order to put it together.

You have already verified your initial H and L screw settings correct?


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## ScotO (Jun 17, 2012)

I'm also thinking like MM, if you are flooding it out you have a problem on the metering side of the carb.  Not sure on that model of saw, but some carburetors have a small notch on the peg in the middle of the metering diaphragm that slides into the metering needle lever.  If you fail to put that peg in the lever slot, it will hold the needle wide open and flood on you.  Your metering diaphragm has to be the problem in some way or another.


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## Freeheat (Jun 20, 2012)

GOT IT FINALLY  the routing of the wires let the  flywheel rub a little on the coil wires , re-route some electrical tape and it runs great   Quick carb adjust and good to go


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## DexterDay (Jun 20, 2012)

es332 said:


> GOT IT FINALLY  the routing of the wires let the  flywheel rub a little on the coil wires , re-route some electrical tape and it runs great   Quick carb adjust and good to go



Whats the total dollar amount? Now its basically a brand new saw. Only gonna get better with a couple tanks of fuel (break in).


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## Freeheat (Jun 20, 2012)

arround 95


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## DexterDay (Jun 20, 2012)

es332 said:


> arround 95



Thats a great deal. Have you had it in wood yet? 

I love my Husqvarnas. But I really love my Stihls!!.


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## Freeheat (Jun 20, 2012)

DexterDay said:


> Thats a great deal. Have you had it in wood yet?
> 
> I love my Husqvarnas. But I really love my Stihls!!.


 

not yet it needs a chain sharpened first


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