# Installing Adjustable Oil Pump to Stihl 026, bar length



## Boog (Dec 1, 2012)

I was looking on doing some upgrades to my .325/.063 Stihl 026. I was interested in installing an adjustable oil pump to replace the fixed one. Basicly, I will need to drill an access hole for the adjuster screw through the bottom of the case. It looks pretty straight forward to me, and I found a pump in a kit with a 3/8-7 rim sprocket too, kill two birds with one kit! Anything I'm overlooking on drilling the hole!

Once switched to 3/8 (.050), I could not find any stihl bars in 18". There were several other brands available such as oregon and forester, and others, in 18", but in a stihl it looks like its either 16 or 20" in 3/8 (.050). I'm thinking that a 20" is too much bar for that saw, and a 16" would be better in a Stihl. Otherwise maybe the 18" Oregon? Everyone needs to have one bastard saw in their collection!


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## amateur cutter (Dec 1, 2012)

The 16 & 18" .050 Stihl bars are the same mount I think, at least my 036 & 026 bars interchange. Not sure what if any difference there would be there. As far as the oiler, make the access hole big enough for your scrench, that way you don't need to carry an extra screwdriver around with you. Pull the bar off your 360 & check it's mount on the 026. No you won't like a 20" 3/8 on the 026, too much bar for the power head. A C


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## Boog (Dec 1, 2012)

amateur cutter said:


> The 16 & 18" .050 Stihl bars are the same mount I think, at least my 036 & 026 bars interchange. Not sure what if any difference there would be there. As far as the oiler, make the access hole big enough for your scrench, that way you don't need to carry an extra screwdriver around with you. Pull the bar off your 360 & check it's mount on the 026. No you won't like a 20" 3/8 on the 026, too much bar for the power head. A C


 
Ahh, great minds think alike. Tried the 360 20" on it last night and it appeared to fit fine, but I suspected that it was too much bar for it. I could not find an 18" Stihl on the net, figured 16 & 20 were the only choices, I'll have to search again or just go to the dealer and pay top dollar ..........  . I don't intend to ever cut anything that big with it, mainly length for reach to the ground. I'm 6'3", tired of bending way over when cutting up small stuff on the ground, every extra inch of "reach" helps!


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## amateur cutter (Dec 1, 2012)

If you're gonna limb & just buck small stuff with it you could run the 20" pretty effectively. Say 12" & under it'll do a decent job. Bury the 20" & it's too much for the 026. Mine likes the 16" bar 3/8 .050 combo, but even that buried is a load on the saw. They make high rpm, but not a lot of grunt. They fall out of their power band pretty fast. If I'm bucking a lot of stuff, I'll even work on a knee to save the back. Put the oiler in it & try the 20" for reach, it may work for ya. A C


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## StihlHead (Dec 2, 2012)

There is really no need to flip your oiler to an adjustable one. All the non-"pro" 026s that I have will oil a 20 inch bar just fine. I run mostly 16 and 18 inch 3/8 std. B&C on my 026s.

I do not understand your question about Stihl 18 inch bars. Stihl makes many types of large mount (the 3003 series, which your 026 has) 18 inch bars. The .325 Stihl only comes in .063 gauge, and the Stihl 3/8 bars come in 0.063 and 0.050 gauge. You can also get the 3/8 bars in E or ES in 18 inch length (E is laminated, ES is a solid bar). Look on the Stihl saw chain selection and identification chart for the bar numbers. For example, an 18 inch Stihl E 3/8 std 0.050 gauge bar part number is: 3003 008 8917. That same bar is recommended for the 361, 362, 440, etc. They are interchangable.

You can also get GB, Carlton, Oregon, or other bars, but make sure you get ones made for Stihl saws. They do not fit other brands of saws (like Husky) without an adapter, and bars for other brand saws do not fit the Stihl line. They all make 18 inch bars that fit the 3003 Stihl mount. Google 3/8 stihl bar or 3003 008 8917 and you will get a lot of results. They sell them on Amazon, Ebay, etc. Here is a whole shirtload of 18 inch bars for Stihl: http://www.buycheapr.com/us/result.jsp?ga=us20&q=18+stihl+chainsaw+bar


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## Boog (Dec 2, 2012)

StihlHead said:


> ................... Stihl makes many types of large mount (the 3003 series, which your 026 has) 18 inch bars. The .325 Stihl only comes in .063 gauge, and the Stihl 3/8 bars come in 0.063 and 0.050 gauge. You can also get the 3/8 bars in E or ES in 18 inch length (E is laminated, ES is a solid bar). Look on the Stihl saw chain selection and identification chart for the bar numbers. For example, an 18 inch Stihl E 3/8 std 0.050 gauge bar part number is: 3003 008 8917. ................. Google 3/8 stihl bar or 3003 008 8917 and you will get a lot of results. .....................Here is a whole shirtload of 18 inch bars for Stihl: http://www.buycheapr.com/us/result.jsp?ga=us20&q=18 stihl chainsaw bar


 
Thanks Stihlhead, as usual great explanation and info.  I just needed to expand my internet horizons, was only searching on ebay.  Searching via the 3003 008 8917 key, found exactly what I was looking for on amazon;

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DBZVX2...e=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B005DBZVX2

Thanks again.  On my way to pick up a "needs repair/low compression" 036 pro for $75.  Dealer told the guy it would be "too expensive to fix" sold him a new saw.  Guy was going to sell it to a local "junk saw buyer" for $50, I offered him $25 more!


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## amateur cutter (Dec 2, 2012)

Boog Powell said:


> Thanks again. On my way to pick up a "needs repair/low compression" 036 pro for $75. Dealer told the guy it would be "too expensive to fix" sold him a new saw. Guy was going to sell it to a local "junk saw buyer" for $50, I offered him $25 more!


 
You may get out of that one for just piston & rings. Many times the jug/cyl is fine, just needs cleaned up. A C


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## Boog (Dec 2, 2012)

amateur cutter said:


> You may get out of that one for just piston & rings. Many times the jug/cyl is fine, just needs cleaned up. A C


 
Will never know, the guy stiffed me on it.  Drove 45 minutes up to Chardon to meet him at 9:00.  He never showed and is not answering his cell phone now.  Oh well, not the first, and I'm sure won't be the last, jerk I meet in my life.


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## amateur cutter (Dec 2, 2012)

Ah yes, the joys of craigslist shopping. Hope it was a nice day for a drive anyway. A C


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## StihlHead (Dec 3, 2012)

Sue them for gas money!

Lots of times low compression is as easy as a new set of rings if the engine is not scored. I got one 026 from a friend with a saw shop with low compression, but the jug and slug cleaned right up. The rings were tired, and with new Cabre rings the compression was over 150 again.

Ahem, what I meant to say is that low compression saws are worthless and too spendy to fix, just like the dealers say they are, so send them to me...


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## HittinSteel (Dec 3, 2012)

I wouldn't put and adjustable oiler on an 026, as it should sling plenty of oil for and 18" bar.

The only reason it is tempting however is because the non adjustable oiler is a _continuous_ oiler, meaning it pumps even when the saw is at idle. I thought of modifying mine for this reason, but realized the benefit really wasn't worth the work.


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## Boog (Dec 3, 2012)

Regarding 036 Pro CL ad: http://cleveland.craigslist.org/tls/3448485421.html


amateur cutter said:


> Ah yes, the joys of craigslist shopping. Hope it was a nice day for a drive anyway. A C


 
No, actually it was raining the whole time, 1.5 hr round trip and 45 minutes waiting................... pissed!



StihlHead said:


> Sue them for gas money!.................................. low compression saws are worthless and too spendy to fix, just like the dealers say they are, so send them to me...


 
I wish I could recoup tavel costs, the guy could at least have called and lied and said he decided to keep and fix it or something, versus probably selling it for a few more bucks to someone else and letting me drive for nothing....................... jerk

Regarding 026 modifications:


HittinSteel said:


> I wouldn't put and adjustable oiler on an 026.............................The only reason it is tempting however is because the non adjustable oiler is a _continuous_ oiler, meaning it pumps even when the saw is at idle............................................the benefit really wasn't worth the work.


 
That's exactly why I decided to do it, to get away from the continuous oiler. The old oiler was really pouring the oil out while the saw was just ideling. Thought I had a leak somewhere but could not find an obvious one anywhere, oil "everywhere" under the sprocket cover and under the clutch around the pump. Already had it all tore down looking for the problem. Found the adj-oiler as part of a 3/8 sprocket conversion "kit" that I was going to do anyway. Figured I'd fix my "problem" by just switching it all out to the adjustable one, replacing the pickup and output lines too. Its all got to be ~20-25yrs old or so, and parts are pretty cheap. I'm retired, like working on saws, don't mind the work.


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## StihlHead (Dec 3, 2012)

Yah, my 026s tend to dump more oil than the other saws do. They tend to piddle more oil after use, so they get an old t-shirt 'diaper' under them. As an aside, none of my 026s have the adj. oilers, but 2 of them have the oil adjuster holes and marks on the belly. The clear gas tanks and oil adjuster bodies seem to be random on these saws.


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## Boog (Dec 3, 2012)

StihlHead said:


> Yah, my 026s tend to dump more oil than the other saws do. They tend to piddle more oil after use, so they get an old t-shirt 'diaper' under them. As an aside, none of my 026s have the adj. oilers, but 2 of them have the oil adjuster holes and marks on the belly. The clear gas tanks and oil adjuster bodies seem to be random on these saws.


 
Hey StihlHead, could you shoot me a photo of the bottom of one with the oil hole location? I was just going to try and line things up from the oil pump, and calculate "down" through the case from there, but if you could post a photo it would help me to know where I need to be underneath a lot easier. Maybe lay a tape on it for reference too? And if you want that old pump let me know. Figured I'd eventually put it up on ebay or something, but if you want it for a spare for your hoard of 026s, its yours. Least I can do for all the help you put out here for me and the rest of the folks.


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## MasterMech (Dec 3, 2012)

Why not set the adjustable oiler at max and forget drilling the hole?  Are you really going to run it at less than wide open?

FWIW: I'd prolly drill the hole too.


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## Boog (Dec 3, 2012)

Had the same exact thought myself, scarry, you're rubbing off here. Have not received the oiler in the mail yet, but from the picture of it, I don't think the adjuster extension will clear the bottom of the curved recessed area where the pump sits without at least drilling that out. I figured that if I would have to do that, I may as well finish the hole all the way through. However, if it will fit inside, I'm with you, set it for full and close it up. Can always just pull the sprocket/clutch again if I need to tweek it. I'm only planning on using one length bar on it.


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## StihlHead (Dec 4, 2012)

Boog Powell said:


> Hey StihlHead, could you shoot me a photo of the bottom of one with the oil hole location? I was just going to try and line things up from the oil pump, and calculate "down" through the case from there, but if you could post a photo it would help me to know where I need to be underneath a lot easier. Maybe lay a tape on it for reference too? And if you want that old pump let me know. Figured I'd eventually put it up on ebay or something, but if you want it for a spare for your hoard of 026s, its yours. Least I can do for all the help you put out here for me and the rest of the folks.


 
Sure. It is not really a hole though, just a slot in the side of the bottom of the mag case. I guess I could use the oil pump, as I have a box of spare parts for my 026 collection. I have had about a dozen of them in all, and I am looking at another one in WA this week. I do not need another 026, but it is a clean one with a clear tank and its a one-owner saw... maybe sell one of my other 026s and slot it into the herd.

Here is the photo. The oiler slot/hole is pretty obvious. There is no oil adjustment scerw in there though. The E is the stingey ematic position, and turning it all the way to the right is wide open. When you install your oiler, the screw will be in an easy position to find and drill or cut the slot out.


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## Boog (Dec 4, 2012)

Great photo, this is going to be easier than I thought. PM me your address and I'll send that pump westward. I've been out to WA & OR a couple times, one of the ex and I were planning on moving out there at one point years ago. Very beautiful country. Here is a photo from one of those trips;


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