# Englander Model 28-3500



## philluvt (Feb 8, 2007)

I am considering purchasing the Englander Model 28-3500. I would love to hear from people who have or have had this stove. I have searched for reviews but I have found very little independent information. Can somone please respond?


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## Roospike (Feb 8, 2007)

http://www.englanderstoves.com/28-3500.html

Englander Model 28-3500 *add on furnace* 

Approx. 3,000 square feet heating capacity when fed into your existing ductwork. 
Accepts up to 25" logs. 
Extra-Large ash pan. 
Beefy 850 CFM blower aids in whole-house heat circulation. 
Reliable design provides for longer life and more efficiency. 
The first whole-house heater with a standard viewing glass (9" x 9") - check on your fire from
      across the room or the top of your stairs!  
Firebrick lined. 

Dimensions:           24 1/2" W x 36" H x 30 1/4" D 
Weight:                  570 lbs. 
Door opening:   12 1/2" x 11" 
Window opening:   8 1/2" x 8 1/2" 
Type of fuel:           Wood 
Flue size ID:           6" 
Flue height to top exhaust:   36 1/2" 
Hot air outlet:  8" 
AC-G9 glass:         9" x 9" 
Blower Capacity:         850 cfm


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## Roospike (Feb 8, 2007)

Dont know about this model but i copied the information so everyone didnt have to guess at what stove was in question.


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## SeanD (Feb 8, 2007)

Phil
I installed the 28-3500 in my house in October 2005.  I have a 2 story colonial, about 2400 sf with a Carrier Infinity natural gas forced air central heating system.  Our home does not have an open floorplan, so a traditional woodstove was not an option.  The 28-3500 works exactly as advertised.  Outside temp has been in the single digits here in western PA and we are still just burning wood to keep warm.  It is now our primary source of heat.  Last winter our natural gas furnace only came on when we were away for the weekend.  This winter I am not quite as zealous with burning, but the gas furnace still rarely comes on.  We set it to come on when the house drops to 60*.  
We have done a couple of things in addition to what Englander sets out in there install instructions.
1.  Our Carrier furnace fan can be turned on low to run all the time.  We keep this fan running 24h / day.  It is so quiet you can barely hear it.  This also allows us to circulate the air through the air cleaner and humidifier.  I also think this allows us to get better circulation through the house.  The Englander fan is triggered by the stove air temp.  I think if you relied on that alone you would end up with a lot of warm air stranded in ductwork
2.  I installed a butterfly type one way gate that theoretically keeps the air flowing from the Englander to the central ductwork.  I am not sure it works like I hoped.  I suspect it gets stuck in the open position.  Therefore I added a simple gate in the ductwork to close off the Englander completely (for summer when we run the AC)
3.  If you really want to warm up the house quickly, the thermostat allows you to turn on the wood stove fan and just let it run.  

Finally, don't underestimate the differance that good quality firewood makes.  My wood this year is not nearly as good (dry) as last year.  I can tell the differance.

I would buy one again.  We paid about $1,000 for stove, ductwork, etc.  It has paid for itself already.

Finally, get a couple buddies to help you get it in the house.  Even with removing the brick, doors, etc it was very heavy.
Good luck
Sean


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## Larry H (Feb 10, 2007)

I can back up everything Sean says.  Installed one a while back (3 years) and it is great.  Keeps the whole house warm, and despite the lack of secondary burn tubes etc., still gets secondary burn with good burning practices - seasoned wood, hot burning, routine maintenance- pays for itself quickly when the furnace doesn't run at all.  I burn about 5 full cords a season, my wood is free and the house is in the low to mid 70's all winter (and that is without working the unit hard).  It will burn for 8-9 hours on a full load with a good bed of coals already going and plenty of glowing coals to rekindle when waking up or getting home from work.  Mine vents through Class A pipe, about 30' high.  I live just south of Buffalo NY, so while not as cold as some here on the board, we do get Real winter weather here.  Support from the Englander folks is great as well.  I really like the glass window on this unit for checking the fire wihtout having to open the door like many of the other add-on units.  No problems with the glass sooting up with seasoned wood - I don't think I've had to clean it since the mild low - temp burns back in early Nov. I really can't say enough good things about it - would only be better if it was EPA.  We do have a small Lopi Patriot in the living room that gets fired up when the temps are below 10 and the wind is kicking. We have a park that borders our back yard so its wide open for the wind in the winter.  Also, our house is a late 1800's work in progress that I only have about 1/2 - 2/3's isulated.


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## begreen (Feb 10, 2007)

That's a great endorsement WaterBoss. Care to post a bigger shot of your installation. Looking good.


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## Larry H (Feb 10, 2007)

Be Green - I'd be happy to! I'll put something up tomorrow after taking some pics with my wife's cameraphone.  She's out with some friends right now.  I am really pleased with my set-up and proud to have done the install myself.  Did a lot of research and planning, so I'm happy to share it.


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## Larry H (Feb 10, 2007)

Here are the shots of the 28-3500 install.  Thimble shot shows detail of penetration to outside.  I have a black metal plate that covers the wood framework and  fiberglass as a "surround" that I removed for the shot.  The thimble itself has no insulation in it.  In this area it is double wall pipe connecting to the Class A before exiting the basement.  The shot doesn't give much depth perception but it comes in through the thimble and mates up with a double wall 45.

Second shot shows the two pipes coming out of the stovetop.  8 inch in the front is the hot air that connects to the natural gas furnace. I started out with a T for two reasons - first, in the event of a power failure (didn't own a generator at time I installed it, but I do now) I could "dump" the heat to the basement only and not overheat the Nat. gas furnace ductwork, which I lowered to have a 2" air gap from the overhead joists, and secondly  so that if it got too warm on the first and second floors (My wife doesn't like it as warm as I do, about 74 - 75 degrees is plenty for her) I could "dump" the heat before it went through the ductwork.  I made the cover for the T and also made the damper that is inside the T and is operated by the little spring handle.  6 inch is the flue.  Flue take off from the wood furnace is a 12" long piece of single wall going up to a double wall 90.  

Third shot shows the 8 inch where it connects to the plenum on top of the Nat. gas furnace.  After it goes in there is a 90 that turns it up so that if the Nat.gas furnace ever kicked on, (it hasn't kicked on except for when I cycle it to make sure it still works) it won't be forcing air back to the stove.  I chose not to install a butterfly because of the way I have the 90 inside the plenum skewed towards the ductwork that goes the the back end of my house which is the windward side.  My ductwork also has dampers so that I can control the heat output into individual rooms as well.

Fourth shot shows a nice frontview full of warmth.  I drilled a small hole to mount the temp gauge on the front of the stove.  Since the stove has an "air jacket" surrounding it, putting it on top could be done with a probe type gauge, but for me this is sufficient.  The temps read lower than they would if it was on top but when I compare them to the stovetop temps on our Lopi upstairs in the living room, they are lower by about 150 degrees.  I don't "burn by the gauge", but it is nice to have as a reference and for the initial learning curve of using the furnace.

Last shot shows the two Class A chimneys on the outside of the house.  Front chimney is Lopi upstairs, and back one is the Englander.  I ran the chimney down towards the ground on the front (Lopi) chimney in case I ever decide to build a chase to enclose them.  That way I can easily pull the plugs at ground level for cleaning.  On the back (Englander) chimney, I ran the pipe up 18" higher since it is the windward side.  I primarily burn the Englander 24/7, but when it's below 10 and the wind is whipping through the wide open area of the park behind my house I'll fire up the Lopi as well.  I have no problems with any smoke smell downdrafting into the livingroom when the Lopi isn't burning.  

Wow, I didn't mean to ramble on so much, but I hope this helped.  Happy to answer any other questions you might have!


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## Upnorth765 (Feb 19, 2007)

I am putting in one of these right now and was wondering . 
1. Englands manual suggests putting a elbow inside the furnace pointing up.... I don't think I have room in mine to do that because of the central air coils.... but have to take it apart to see exactly how the coils are in there. Is this ebow necessary?? or not 
2. If I do install this elbow is it any special elbow and do I still install the peice that (can't think of the name) that is like a starter piece where you cut the hole in the furnace and put the collar in the hole and then bent the tabs over?? Would a elbow fit  inside with these tabs bent over??
Thanks


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## SeanD (Feb 19, 2007)

I did not put the elbow in.  By running my gas furnace fan constantly I am sure the airflow is going in the right direction.


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## Upnorth765 (Feb 19, 2007)

Thanks for the reply. I would think that would run up the electric bill??


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## SeanD (Feb 19, 2007)

Not really - my electric consumption barely changes.  I have a Carrier Infinity furnace that is very energy efficient.  I have the option to turn the fan on at a very low speed.  You can't even hear it running unless you are standing near it.  This has the additional benefit of letting me clean the air with the Carrier electronic air cleaner and run the central humidifier that is on the gas furnace.  Clean air, 45% relative humidity and no gas bill.


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## Rusty (Feb 22, 2007)

I am also considering buy one of the 28-3500. Right now I have a Osburn 2400 in my basement trying to heat 2700 feet above it between 2 more floors.The first floor stays warm but the heat just doesnt get to the 2nd floor.

  I was wondering if you have ever checked the air temp coming out of the floor grates on your top floor?


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## begreen (Feb 23, 2007)

Ibjamn, welcome. Is there any possibility of installing a stove on your first floor? A basement stove installation is unlikely to heat the whole house. Woodstoves are designed primarily to be space (room) heaters.


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## SeanD (Feb 23, 2007)

The air coming out of the second floor registers is warm.  Don't know the exact temperature, but it is definately warmer than the air in the room.


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## Larry H (Feb 24, 2007)

My second floor register temp is warm also, but I've never checked it's temp.  Stays pretty consistent too.  Sorry for the slow reply - been working a lot lately.


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## Rusty (Feb 25, 2007)

What does the limit connection do?  What should it be hooked up to?  How do you have yours hooked up?

Is the bottom knob and top slide bar damper controls?  What are they used for and how do you use yours?  I know what a damper is...why is there one on top and the bottom.  I understand that the bottom one is feeding oxygen from the bottom but what is the top one used for?

Just got one today on sale   Is there anything I should know or do when installing?  Thanks guys!

Rusty


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## Michael6268 (Feb 25, 2007)

Not sure what you mean by limit connection.    The two controls are both draft controls.  The slide damper above the door should be your primary air control, with the bottom knob only really used when starting the stove or if you have a weak draft. I believe at one time they said you could burn soft coal in it.  In that case the bottom knob would be your primary air, as coal needs underfire air.


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## elkimmeg (Feb 25, 2007)

water boss there are a few code vilations and safety issues you should address single wall pipr requires 18" clearance to combustiables including your floor joist above.
I also noticed wood pieces holding in you metal makeshift there w te wall flange again well within 18"
 common fiberglass insulating has no business in contact with single wall vent pipe?  Lot of BTUs an heat in that pipe and clearances no where nere the required distances?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v464/laluna07/woodstove/1ebc9501.jpg


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## Roospike (Feb 25, 2007)

elkimmeg said:
			
		

> water boss there are a few code vilations and safety issues you should address single wall pipr requires 18" clearance to combustiables including your floor joist above.
> I also noticed wood pieces holding in you metal makeshift there w te wall flange again well within 18"
> common fiberglass insulating has no business in contact with single wall vent pipe? Lot of BTUs an heat in that pipe and clearances no where nere the required distances?
> 
> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v464/laluna07/woodstove/1ebc9501.jpg



So were talking what to correct your posted pic Elk ? drywall thimble ? concrete thimble ?


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## Larry H (Feb 25, 2007)

Elk - The section you are looking at that Roo highlighted is double wall black pipe.  At that thimble (but before it passes through it) it connects to tripple wall class A and is passing through the thimble as triple wall to the "T" outside and then on up the house.  In that shot there is a small piece of pipe strapping that I put on just to make extra sure that joint doesn't come apart.  That shot doesn't give much depth perception, (I only have a digital camera phone so I guess a little is lost in the clarity) but if you look at the other pic where the stove pipe comes off the top the back one (6") starts as single wall only up to the 90 and is double and triple after that.


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## Larry H (Feb 25, 2007)

Elk - forgot to add in the last post that the fiberglass is only on the outside of those framing members that hold the thimble in place.  There is no fiberglass in the thimble itself.  The thimble is from Duravent (as well as the rest of the pipe) and is designed to have triple wall Class A pass through it.


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## elkimmeg (Feb 25, 2007)

pictures do not always tell the entire story     and I made an assumption the pipe was single wall,   Glad to here my assumption is wrong and to here the way  it is installed
 is correct.


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## Larry H (Feb 25, 2007)

Thanks Elk.  Glad to know you're out there keeping everyone safe.  If no one questioned what they saw in pics, something potentially dangerous could slip right on through.


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## Upnorth765 (Feb 26, 2007)

Well I would like to know what the code is for plenum distance from ceiling is??? What do insurance companies like to see?? I have seen 2" but heard 3 or more also??


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## begreen (Feb 26, 2007)

I'm not sure what the code is in your region, but what does the manual say? Yukon recommends 18" for the plenum and 6" clearance for the first 6 feet of trunk duct. 
(page 8)
http://www.yukon-eagle.com/pdfs/jack.pdf


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## Upnorth765 (Feb 26, 2007)

Thank You for the reply
Well I cannot find anything in my manual about plenum distance from joists.  2" ?


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## Rusty (Feb 26, 2007)

Hey waterboss, what does the temp on the front of your stove get to when youve got a good fire going?
 And do you leave the bottom draft opened at all ounce its going?
 Thanks
 Rusty


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## Larry H (Feb 27, 2007)

When I have a good fire going and it's loaded to leave for work or at night for bed, the gauge will run up to a max of about 550 degrees.  It stays there for about 4 1/2 - 5 hours of the approximately 8 hour total burn time, when it is then back down to coals.  If the gauge was on top like my Lopi I figure that would be a max of about 700 degrees.  I have switched the gauges in the past to see, and they run exactly the same.  The bottom spinner air inlet.  Kind of hard to describe, but if you put an imaginary dot on the door above the spinner at 12 o'clock, and then turned the spinner open only 1 to 1 1/2 of the "vanes" that's it (not full truns).  It is only open a very small amount.  The bottom spinner, I understand, is really primarily used for burning soft coal in this unit, I only burn wood, but I have found I get the best burn with it like this.  I do open it more (half to three quarters of the way) when I am stoking the fire from coals in order to establish flame.  I also have the top (primary) air control open all the way at that time.  Typically my process in the morning would be to put in three splits loaded north / south, get the flame going, dial bottom spinner to my normal setting, go upstairs, get a cup of coffee, go back down to the basement (about 5 minutes to get coffee) slide top air control to half position, then go watch the news / weather, (about 15-20 minutes) (temp is up to about 315) go back downstairs to the basement, load the stove all the way (maybe ten splits total of varying sizes), move the top air control to just under half way open, go finish watching the news and eat some breakfast while the load is getting a good char, (about 20 minutes), and then slide the top air control to a quarter open. About 15-20 minutes later the temp gauge will be up around 500.  

This seems to work well for my set-up, but I'm sure the times and control positions vary from stove set-up to stove set-up and also depending on your chimney type and how "good" the wood you have is.  I do vary my wood load and control positions based on outside temps and forecast, as well as early and late season fires.  That stuff you'll learn with experience and a little trial and error.  Hope this helped.


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## stoveguy2esw (Feb 27, 2007)

Upnorth765 said:
			
		

> Thank You for the reply
> Well I cannot find anything in my Englander 28-3500 manual about plenum distance from joists. My plenum is about 2 "off  my joists. I just got this stove/furnace add on and have not hooked it up yet but was wondering if I do not hook it into the furnace is there any reason why i cannot just burn wood in it and use it like a regular wood stove and let the air blow out the top without hooking it into the furnace?? Or is it not made for that and my insurance will drop me?



 what is the btu rating for your whole house furnace? , i just about guarentee its higher than the output of the stove, yet there is no problem with a 2 inch clearance to ductwork for that unit i checked in with r/d today about this post and found that 2 inch clearance is just fine, and was asked the same question i just posted, and had it answered as i have written as well. way i see it , ducts should not be "zero clearance " with anything, but the wood furnace is dumping heat that is cycling in and out at 150 degrees at the most and that heat drops significantly after the blower has run for a minute or so, looking at the other furnace mentioned, i didnt look to see if it was mechanically inducted( fan on the front blowing into the firebox) i could see a larger clearance with it in case that fan stuck on and overfired the unit, but ducting should not get hot enough to cause combustion with a few inches clearance.


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## begreen (Feb 27, 2007)

I think the more conservative clearances are for situations like power failures and homeowners running the furnace without a blower. I checked a few sites and the minimum I found was 6" clearance. I think 2" is too little safety margin for directly above the furnace. It's not the normal running conditions one is protecting against, it's the abnormal ones.


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## Upnorth765 (Feb 27, 2007)

Well I called Englander today and asked them the recommended height for the furnace plenum. The guy there told me 16 inches???? He must have been wrong though My lp furnace plenum (formerly an oil furnace) is only 2 inches from the joists and there is no way it could be lowered to 16 inches without a total rebuild??? I don't know what the insurance adjuster will say but i may just be using my 28-3500 as just a wood stove and not a furnace add on unless I can get this straightened out. :-(


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## begreen (Feb 27, 2007)

You may be able to keep the 28-3500 plenum lower until it feeds into the main system plenum and probably be ok. How far is the wood burner from the primary furnace?


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## Upnorth765 (Feb 27, 2007)

Thanks for the reply
The Stove is about 18 inches from the Furnace. Do you mean build some sort of plenum just for the wood furnace then route it into the LP furnace plenum??


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## Michael6268 (Feb 28, 2007)

Englander says 16" and Mike from Englander says 2" ? ? ? Single wall connector pipe has to be 18" from combustibles, so I really find it hard to believe a plenum has to be 16". Not positive but I believe the type of thermostat that comes with that unit has a "limit stop" probably set somewhere around 150-160 deg. which limits the temperature of the air that can enter the plenum/duct system. While it sounds like there is a bit of confusion between the "two Englander reps" , I think the 2" is probably ok, but I would probably go 6" for the first 6' just to be sure.


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## Upnorth765 (Feb 28, 2007)

Mike from Englander??? Who is that??


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## Rusty (Feb 28, 2007)

What do you mean by Plenum?
 Which part?
 Man im so confused..
 Thanks
 Rusty


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## Larry H (Feb 28, 2007)

The plenum of the Natural gas or LP furnace is the first piece of metal ductwork that sits on the top of that furnace that the rest of the ductwork branches out from.  The 8" pipe (the one in the front on the top of the add-on) typically will be hooked in to this.  In your 28-3500 manual look for the page that says "Installation diagrams and Thermostat Wiring for 28-3500/50-SHW35/50-TRW35"  Figure 3 shows a typical hook-up to the Nat Gas or LP furnace.


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## Upnorth765 (Feb 28, 2007)

Rusty. Sorry for not explaining the Plenum more. If you would have asked me 2 weeks ago before I bought my 28-3500 I would not have known what a plenum was either.  Due to insurance companies I have had to learn alot.
Now what if I built a seperate Plenum on top of my stove and then ran about 4 or 5 seperate 8 inch ducts into my existing duct work or into my LP plenum??  Could I use flexible duct or not ect...What would the insurance people say about that do you think??? I bought the add on to use for my whole house and see no way to make my LP furnace plenum lower.  Help is Appreciated.


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## Michael6268 (Feb 28, 2007)

Upnorth765 said:
			
		

> Mike from Englander??? Who is that?? ???



Mike is a guy who is a member of this forum and is in charge of customer service at Englander. He posted a reply to this post a few replies back. Goes by StoveGuy(ESW- England stove works) Anyhow, if this thing is going into an existing furnace duct/plenum, just run black stove pipe up a convenient spot in the duct /plenum. Keep it away from combustibles 6" and you will be fine. The thing has a limit switch and cant get too hot to do any damage. There is no benefit of building a separate plenum on top of you stove. All that is going to do is be a heat loss by having that much more ducting to transfer the heat into before it gets into you main ducts.


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## begreen (Feb 28, 2007)

Upnorth765 said:
			
		

> Rusty. Sorry for not explaining the Plenum more. If you would have asked me 2 weeks ago before I bought my 28-3500 I would not have known what a plenum was either.  Due to insurance companies I have had to learn alot.
> Now what if I built a seperate Plenum on top of my stove and then ran about 4 or 5 seperate 8 inch ducts into my existing duct work or into my LP plenum??  Could I use flexible duct or not ect...What would the insurance people say about that do you think??? I bought the add on to use for my whole house and see no way to make my LP furnace plenum lower.  Help is Appreciated.



Upnorth, checkout the installation diagrams for a Yukon Jack or a Charmaster. You want to try to get a good airflow with a proper thermal loop or the furnace will not perform well. Here's an example of a problem with a short-cycling loop.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/4945/

For clearances, see this December thread. 
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/89/P0/


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## stoveguy2esw (Mar 1, 2007)

Upnorth765 said:
			
		

> Well I called Englander today and asked them the recommended height for the furnace plenum. They said 16 inches???? My lp furnace plenum (formerly an oil furnace) is  only 2 inches from the joists and there is no way it could be lowered to 16 inches without a total rebuild??? I don't know what the insurance adjuster will say but i may just be using my 28-3500 as just a wood stove and not a furnace add on. :-(



who did you talk to?????

i'll check again and see about getting a clear answer. i'll post when i get it


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## Upnorth765 (Mar 1, 2007)

Mike from Englander looked into this and said that plenum to joist distance is 2 inches and it is listed on the back of the stove on a tag.  Thank you for looking into this.


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## stoveguy2esw (Mar 1, 2007)

Upnorth765 said:
			
		

> Mike I got you PM and will be contacting you. Thanks for looking into this.




no problem, i'll get you straight, sorry for the mixup


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## stoveguy2esw (Mar 7, 2007)

update, sorry for taking so long, acording to drawings and specs provided by our safety testing done at warnock hersey the clearance to combustibles from the unit and affected plenum is indeed 2 inches, this is posted on the safety tag on the unit along with aditional clearances and such required by WH for UL listing. i have drafted and will mail a letter on my company letterhead as promised to Phil. if any others who are in need of such a statement  from our company as to this issue i will be glad to oblige. please contact me to request this letter. i am going to see to it that this information will be included in the next revision of the installation/operations manual for this model.

mike holton    esw


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## Drifthopper (Apr 12, 2007)

Hi guys....Just registered...Very first post.   Google is an amazing tool 
I'm in to snowmobiling, therefore my user name.      
I too, am looking to Englander 28-3500 for my basement.   My current stove, the one that was in the house when we bought the place (7 ys ago) has seen its better days and served its purpose well, its a small stove, its not big enough to "heat" the house, (2050 sq ft. 2 sty Colonial) but enough to "sustain" the current temp.  Basically, in the morning, the furnace kicks on, gets the house to 68, and then the stove is enough to hold that temp thru out the day.
It worked well,,,,up to now, its just too burnt out, i'm getting an air leak somewhere, it doesn't hold the fire like it once did. 

So with that said.......I'm interested in the 28-3500.
i printed this thread out and will read it in detail later on. 

WaterBoss....I'm in Western New York,  Buffalo burbs.   From your pictures, your set-up / arrangement is very similar to what i have.  If your standing in front of your stove, your furnace is just to your left....Correct?   

Where did you buy your stove?   and if ya don't might posting....how much did ya pay? 

To others who posted, what other "add-on furnaces" did you consider before purchasing a 28-3500?  

What was the deciding factor:  Price?   Availability?  Supplier location?    

I seen on the Englander site, that many Big box store carry these, and some local shops......I haven't gotten on the phone yet to find out if one is currently available locally,  i'm willing to travel....say....150 miles from Buffalo to get one. (if that's the one i decide on...????)   
This would be a nice summer project for me, i'd like to get one soon to have time to work with and get it piped up, and not have to wait till fall and then be under the gun to get it in. 
Plus....with it being 570 lbs....man....how the heck i'm i gonna get it in my basement.....

The blower on these....850 CFM...how big is that?   is that like a furnace size blower? 

And,,for the blower, Has any one piped in to there cold air return on their furnace?     Or does it just draw air from around the stove , in the basement? 

Any Input is greatly appreciated    if someone knows a shop that has a 28-3500, - WNY,  North East Pa, Southern Ontario....please post. 

Thanks!


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## Upnorth765 (Apr 12, 2007)

I bought mine at Home depot a couple months ago 1/2 off for $400.


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## Drifthopper (Apr 12, 2007)

Where are you?   and do they have another one??


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## Upnorth765 (Apr 13, 2007)

I am in MN and it was the last one thats why they had it at 1/2 off. Call around who knows what you will find though.


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## alfio (Apr 14, 2007)

BeGreen said:
			
		

> Ibjamn, welcome. Is there any possibility of installing a stove on your first floor? A basement stove installation is unlikely to heat the whole house. Woodstoves are designed primarily to be space (room) heaters.




Hi, begreen i would like to put  my two cents worth . I have to disagree with you on that . I heat my single family 28x52  ranch from the basement , with a coal , or pellet stove . or wood stove. It takes a little longer but it can be done. Here is what I did, the stoves  are in the basement, i placed a floor grate right above the coal and wood stoves, then i placed two 4x12 registers in the other end of the house, and ran two  6 in. flex ducts to the room were the stove are, and I get natural convection . It works pretty well , when i want to move more heat up i open the cellar door .NO fans just natural convection. 

p.s. the other end of the house is 3 to 5 degrees cooler , depending on what the outside temp. is .thats were the bedroom are, and i like it it cooler anyway


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## begreen (Apr 14, 2007)

alfio said:
			
		

> BeGreen said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Yes, it can be done, and sometimes successfully. Note that I said "unlikely", especially in Ibjamm's case. Many basement stove installs disappoint because of house layout, lack of unostructed airflow, uninsulated basement, stove location, etc.. Ibjamm's house is a 2 story home on top of the basement, very different from a ranch. When it gets cold is the first floor Quad 3100i also running?  

PS: Are there fire dampers to the registers over the stove?


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## Drifthopper (Aug 31, 2007)

To the top for Rich81


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