# Identify my "new" stove



## BrassMaker (Jan 16, 2016)

I just bought a new to me older wood stove from a friend and dropped it off to be cleaned up for install. I can't find the brand though (not stamped or tagged anywhere I can find) and want to look up the 
	

		
			
		

		
	




	

		
			
		

		
	
 clearances for the hearth I'll be building/installing. Can someone ID this for me?


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## mass_burner (Jan 16, 2016)

What does that label have on it?


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## BrassMaker (Jan 16, 2016)

mass_burner said:


> What does that label have on it?


The bottom label is just fire safety warning info. The label above the door has something that looks like "Pirl" but I can't find that online.


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## begreen (Jan 16, 2016)

There may be more clues in that label. Carefully clean it off for more details. What does the ash lip label say? Is there a date on it? No label on the rear of the stove?


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## rwhite (Jan 17, 2016)

I'm thinking fabco. If I recall correctly fabco made the original briarwood. They were bought out by blaze king which now carries the briarwood.


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## rwhite (Jan 17, 2016)

I don't know if the blaze king briarwood ever had the ornate doors so I'm guessing fabco made this one prior to the buy out


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## begreen (Jan 17, 2016)

Good call, I suspected a Northwest stove with the Redmond, WA lab testing. There was a thread a while back that showed that style door on their insert. 
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/fabco-bigfoot-wood-stove.150705/


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## mass_burner (Jan 17, 2016)

OP, so you're having this refurbished? I'm curious, how different in cost will this approach be than a new epa stove?


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## BrassMaker (Jan 17, 2016)

begreen said:


> There may be more clues in that label. Carefully clean it off for more details. What does the ash lip label say? Is there a date on it? No label on the rear of the stove?


I don't have the stove with me; pretty much picked it up from my friend's barn and immediately dropped it off for refinishing. Three of us looked over the stove and couldn't find mfg info, but something might present itself after it gets sand blasted.


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## BrassMaker (Jan 17, 2016)

mass_burner said:


> OP, so you're having this refurbished? I'm curious, how different in cost will this approach be than a new epa stove?


Good question! I looked into this and considered what the three local fireplace shops had to offer. For a similar, new, stove with chimney install I was quoted $5k (low end) several times. That does not include the hearth/mantle. The complete all inclusive setup goes as high as $15k here. As a comparison, I bought this stove from my friend for $200 plus some bags of pellets that came with my new house. Took it to another friend who is a show quality auto body and paint guy. He's soda blasting and painting the stove for me at cost plus a case of beer. I'm still debating making my own hearth or hiring someone to build it, so I have unknown cost there. I was quoted $1200 for chimney install. I budgeted $5k total for this project, so I should be well under budget taking the DIY approach.


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## BrassMaker (Jan 17, 2016)

rwhite said:


> I'm thinking fabco. If I recall correctly fabco made the original briarwood. They were bought out by blaze king which now carries the briarwood.


A Google search led me right back here! Looks like "Fishnaked" has a similar stove: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...he-fire-acts-as-if-its-closed-clogged.145924/

Anyone have a generic distance spec for how far from walls and combustibles this old Fabco will need to be?


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## rwhite (Jan 17, 2016)

BrassMaker said:


> A Google search led me right back here! Looks like "Fishnaked" has a similar stove: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...he-fire-acts-as-if-its-closed-clogged.145924/
> 
> Anyone have a generic distance spec for how far from walls and combustibles this old Fabco will need to be?


PM member BKVP. He may have a manual.


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## bholler (Jan 17, 2016)

Honestly if it does not have a legible ul tag on it the make and model doesn't really matter for clearances.  With out the tag it is an unlisted stove and needs 36" to an unprotected combustible wall.  That can be reduced with proper heat shields.


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## BrassMaker (Sep 26, 2016)

The refinishing took a little longer that expected, but here's how it sits tonight. Very happy with the look. Even happier with the slow burn rate and heat this thing generates. Despite the 80+ degree California weather, I'm cooking off the paint smell outside tonight. Can't wait to get a mantle started. Will post that as well in case others tackle a small project like I did.


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## moresnow (Sep 27, 2016)

Neat pic from the paint curing burn!


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## BrassMaker (Nov 26, 2016)

The mantle project is under way! I had to delete/move a few outlets and redirect one floor vent. The foundation is 2x4's covered by 3/4" ply and 1/4" cement board. Today I brought home the stove pipe, chimney and fittings to put together once the rain lets up. Here's the progression leading to tonight:


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## BrassMaker (Nov 26, 2016)

Here's an idea of the brick that will be covering everything.


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## dlj (Nov 26, 2016)

Looks good. Nice restore job on the stove.

dj


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## BrassMaker (Nov 30, 2016)

The stove pipe and chimney is installed... kinda. The final piece will be placed after I lay the brickwork. I used Selkirk parts from my local Ace Hardware store. One telescoping double wall stove pipe, three 36" insulated chimney pieces and all the misc parts that go with them came to about $800. The pieces went together like a Lego set. Having never done this before, and seeing the (almost) final product, I would recommend the same parts for anyone else wanting to DIY. Here's the new addition to my roof:


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## begreen (Nov 30, 2016)

Making good progress there. Were you able to get a manual or UL tested clearances for the stove? If not, it needs to be 36" from the nearest combustibles. Cement board on studs does not rate for a clearance reduction, even with stone veneer. However, a proper, ventilated wall shield will get the clearance down to 12".


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## begreen (Nov 30, 2016)

Looks like member @Fishnaked might own this stove. You might want to start a conversation with him and see he has the manual or if his stove has the UL label with clearances on it. 
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...he-fire-acts-as-if-its-closed-clogged.145924/


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## BrassMaker (Nov 30, 2016)

I located the clearance info yesterday on the label above the door. It was almost completely rubbed off, so I guess the lighting had to be just right. The label says clearance can be down to 8". I assume that's due to the fixed heat shield across the back. I placed it so that the rear outer most corners of the stove are 12" from combustible and since the stove is set at an angle to the walls, I feel pretty safe.


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## begreen (Nov 30, 2016)

Good deal. Were you able to find the hearth insulation requirements too?


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## BrassMaker (Apr 10, 2017)

Here's how the hearth came together. I think it turned out great for my first attempt at mortar and brickwork! We've had a dozen or so fires in the stove as far and everything seems good! Thanks for the help this forum provided early on!


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## Jan Pijpelink (Apr 10, 2017)

BrassMaker said:


> View attachment 196925
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Looks great!  Enjoy!


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## begreen (Apr 10, 2017)

You've done well and breathed new life into the old stove. Sit back and soak up the warmth and nice view. It looks great.


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