# I need a saw...



## Skier76 (Sep 10, 2009)

The scrounging has caught up with me; as has some other standing dead trees I cut up in VT. 

I've gone the used route before...but that hasn't always ended nicely. So I'm thinking Echo or Stihl. I'm between the Echo CS 370 16" from the Depot for about $260 or the Stihl MS 250 for $329. I'd mainly be using this saw for cutting up scrounge wood...or anything else that happens to fall on the property.


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## smokinj (Sep 10, 2009)

the echo is a 35 cc saw and the stihl is a 45cc saw "the stihl ms180 would compare better with the echo"  but given that choice I would go with the ms 250


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## southbound (Sep 10, 2009)

I was torn between a husky 455 and a stihl ms290..

What sold me on the stihl was the simple fact I have a good local dealer..The only way to get the husky serviced was to take it back to tractor supply and have them send it out..

All I'm saying is to take the little stuff into consideration as well.. O and I have had the 290 for awhile now with no problems at all..


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## gerry100 (Sep 10, 2009)

I trashed a Poulan and a Homelite before I got a Stihl 026 about 10 years ago. Great saw.

Life's short - drive German cars and use German saws when possible.


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## thewoodlands (Sep 10, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> The scrounging has caught up with me; as has some other standing dead trees I cut up in VT.
> 
> I've gone the used route before...but that hasn't always ended nicely. So I'm thinking Echo or Stihl. I'm between the Echo CS 370 16" from the Depot for about $260 or the Stihl MS 250 for $329. I'd mainly be using this saw for cutting up scrounge wood...or anything else that happens to fall on the property.



I have the Stihl 310 & 390 and both have been good chainsaws for me and yes I purchased them from a local shop here.

Zap


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## wendell (Sep 10, 2009)

Just don't go over to ArboristSite or you will soon be saying you need several saws!  ;-)  CAD (Chainsaw Acquisition Disorder) is a very contagious disease!!


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## smokinj (Sep 10, 2009)

wendell said:
			
		

> Just don't go over to ArboristSite or you will soon be saying you need several saws!  ;-)  CAD (Chainsaw Acquisition Disorder) is a very contagious disease!!



sure looks like the 3 saw plan is the only way out 260,460,660 and a little room to grow if you will


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## wendell (Sep 10, 2009)

smokinj said:
			
		

> sure looks like the 3 saw plan is the only way out 260,460,660 and a little room to grow if you will



I believe you meant to say 5100, 6400 and 7900 with 16", 20" and 24" respectively.   ;-)


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## smokinj (Sep 10, 2009)

wendell said:
			
		

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nope I stand respectively with 260,460,660  16,28,36 lol


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## Bigg_Redd (Sep 11, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> The scrounging has caught up with me; as has some other standing dead trees I cut up in VT.
> 
> I've gone the used route before...but that hasn't always ended nicely. So I'm thinking Echo or Stihl. I'm between the Echo CS 370 16" from the Depot for about $260 or the Stihl MS 250 for $329. I'd mainly be using this saw for cutting up scrounge wood...or anything else that happens to fall on the property.



A good saw will last for decades so get the one you really want.


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## WOODBUTCHER (Sep 11, 2009)

gerry100 said:
			
		

> I trashed a Poulan and a Homelite before I got a Stihl 026 about 10 years ago. Great saw.
> 
> Life's short - drive German cars and use German saws when possible.



I have a 2001 VW 1.8T Passat with 203,000 miles. I have put no money into the motor besides four new coils, plugs and a massflow air sensor that I put in at 160,000.
The front end is built like a tank (no service there either). Nothing has been touched  ...clutch, exhaust, turbo. I did'nt have to replaced the original front rotors/pads till 150,000.

WB


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## WOODBUTCHER (Sep 11, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> The scrounging has caught up with me; as has some other standing dead trees I cut up in VT.
> 
> I've gone the used route before...but that hasn't always ended nicely. So I'm thinking Echo or Stihl. I'm between the Echo CS 370 16" from the Depot for about $260 or the Stihl MS 250 for $329. I'd mainly be using this saw for cutting up scrounge wood...or anything else that happens to fall on the property.



If a 5100s is in your budget, check out a local dealer. You won't be disappointed.

50cc/3.9hp/11.2 lb powerhead

WB


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## smokinj (Sep 11, 2009)

WOODBUTCHER said:
			
		

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The price on that saw keeps rising fast! (great saw)


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## WOODBUTCHER (Sep 11, 2009)

smokinj said:
			
		

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Yes it does! I paid $379.00 in May 2008


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## Skier76 (Sep 11, 2009)

Thanks guys! I hear you on the German cars....we've always owned one. And I keep a ShamWOW in my Jeep; because it's made in Germany: "You know the Germans always make good stuff!" 

I'd like to keep the price around $300...or less. That's kinda why I had the 16" Echo as a choice.


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## basod (Sep 11, 2009)

I'd shy from the echo's.  Tree cutting buddy has been through several.  The new huskies don't have adjustable carbs and are sold in "box" stores.  They have to send it out for service.  I' wouldn't shy away from a good used saw.  There's probably plenty of decent mid sized stihls on the BAY, just do your research.  I don't believe I'd purchase one of the newer saws nothing like letting the low end torque of the 041 grunt its  way through a big round of hickory.


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## Skier76 (Sep 11, 2009)

I'm just leary of used...and inheriting someone else's headache/problem. I've had too many engines go south on used equipment.


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## smokinj (Sep 11, 2009)

The sthil ms 211 getting really good reviews and under 300.00


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## daveswoodhauler (Sep 11, 2009)

If the saw is going to be used mainly for cutting up scrounged wood and small trees, I don't think you really need anything more than a 45cc saw.
I know that there are a few here, including myself that have a 42cc Craftsman, and it has worked fine for us...I think some folks cut 2-3 cords a year with them as well. You might be fine with a box store saw, and just get rid of the chain it comes with (safety chain) and pick up a semi chisel at ammicks or baileys online. If you are going to cut 3 plus cords a year with 24"plus diameters, you'll probably need a bigger saw.
Maybe get the price on a husky from lowes around 45cc, and see if your local dealer can give you a similar price i you will have it serviced there.


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## blel (Sep 11, 2009)

I have a Stihl 028 Super AV. Never did find out what the "AV" stands for, anyone know? It was bought in approx 1986 in advance of Hurricane Gloria. I am sure of the hurricane but not of the year. Anyway, it has been a great saw, no major problems. I think it is around 45 cc. It has 16" bar. I'm sure it would power  an 18" bar. Still using it, my only saw. I would buy another Stihl. I have seen these available at times that have been sitting in someone's basement, virtually unused for years.


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## LLigetfa (Sep 12, 2009)

AV = Anti-Vibration


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## basod (Sep 12, 2009)

As LLgetfa stated Anti-Vibration.  Stihl started installing rubber mounts in there housings somewhere in early-mid 80's.  Makes the saw much more comfortable. Cons are that they may wear out.  For most folks cutting firewood 3+cords a year, you'e not going ot wear out a stihl.  Just don't mix your fuel 50:1 like they recommend-"US EPA certification" most of same saw sold in europe spec 40:1....  I'd rather use a little more oil and keep the saw for a long time.


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## ikessky (Sep 13, 2009)

I've enjoyed my MS290 so far and enjoyed it even more when I ditched the safety chain and started to run semi-chisel.


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## DBoon (Sep 14, 2009)

> I’d like to keep the price around $300...or less. That’s kinda why I had the 16” Echo as a choice.



That's what I was thinking when I went shopping, and I quickly realized that there is a world of difference between a $300 saw and a $400 saw.  For $400, I got a nicely powered lightweight Dolmar P5100S with anti-vibration technology that is great for going through hickory rounds and is light enough for a some limbing activity also.  I am using this saw to cut about 1-1/2 cords a year for myself and 6 cords a year for my father-in-law.  I wouldn't want to limb all day with this, but can handle a bit of that kind of action with it.  

For $300, I wouldn't have gotten anti-vibration, and the combination of light weight and high power.  If I was only going to cut 1-1/2 cords per year, I may have saved my self the $100, but I was frankly tired of trying to get anything done with my father-in-law's underpowered $250 saws (which he uses since they are lightweight).  

At the end of the day, one $400 saw is cheaper than two $250 saws.


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## Skier76 (Sep 14, 2009)

Thanks everyone. I poked around Stihl's site this weekend. The MS211 seems like it would be a nice saw and fits the price point....


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## zzr7ky (Sep 14, 2009)

Hi - 

I scrounge 6 cords or so a year.  I find with the 50-60CC saws I get the wood down, bucked, and out of folks yards significantly faster.  The saw does it's work quick, and I'm still fresh enough to load, and the like.   

There is a fair amount of local competition, but several neighbors have called me and said "I want you to take this wood because you're quick and won't rut up the yard."  Good tools keep paying you back.  

Good luck!
Mike


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## peterc38 (Sep 14, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> Thanks everyone. I poked around Stihl's site this weekend. The MS211 seems like it would be a nice saw and fits the price point....



MS 211 has gotten great reviews so far, but IMO kinda small for a scrounging/firewood saw. I'd agree w/ some other posters to look in the 50-60 cc range.


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## smokinj (Sep 14, 2009)

peterc38 said:
			
		

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if you really want to get the job done go with 80-90cc lol


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## peterc38 (Sep 14, 2009)

smokinj said:
			
		

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not to mention a TW-5 logsplitter, conveyor, dump truck, tractor, etc.


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## smokinj (Sep 14, 2009)

peterc38 said:
			
		

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+1 Thats is in my dreams! and a Big chipper


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## WoodMann (Sep 14, 2009)

I'll say, the 211 does seem pretty ideal, especially when outfitted with a 16" bar. It all depends on how much you cut, how fast ya want it done and where ya get the wood from...................


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## Skier76 (Sep 14, 2009)

That's the thing...I've scrounged maybe a cord...if that right now. Most of the stuff was already cut, just needed to be split. 

But who knows what I'll run into as time goes on.


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## wendell (Sep 14, 2009)

If your trying to stay on a budget, see if your local Home Depot is selling one of their 6401's (or have them take your name and call you when they do). I just picked one up for $180 (which I think is a pretty good deal for a $550 saw) and it was in a lot better shape than I expected. They send out pre-mix with the saw so you know it hasn't been straight gassed and they have a checklist they use to keep it running well. I just ordered a new bar and chain from Bailey's and it is good to go.


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## smabon (Sep 15, 2009)

This will be my second year burning.  My first year I used Craftsmans that my father had.  This year for my birthday my wife had her family and my family pitch in for a saw.  She is a PT and one of her patients highly recommended a Stihl.  She got me the Farm Boss 290 and she was able to get a pretty good deal on it too.  I love it, worlds of difference compaired to the craftsman.  I like to support local businesses and the shop has been very helpful.  I'm sure that it has been said already, but if it hasn't.  Make sure to pick up some protective wear, chaps, gloves, helmet with face shield and ear protection.  Was bucking and splitting wood a couple of weeks ago, was wearing the chap but not the helmet with face shield.  Ended the weekend in the ER with debrie in my eye.  It's always on my head now.  Best of luck choosing a saw.  Either way you go, Stihl, Echo, Husky you will be a lot happier then going with a craftsman, poulan or a homelite, they are disposable saws in my mind.  Granted I still have one of my fathers craftsman that I use every now and again because it is a lot lighter.


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## TMonter (Sep 15, 2009)

> I don’t believe I’d purchase one of the newer saws nothing like letting the low end torque of the 041 grunt its way through a big round of hickory.



An 041 won't hold a candle to a newer saw in both power/weight and anti-vibration, trust me. I have an 056 and while it's a powerful saw, I'd choose my 372XP over it any day of the week.


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## Skier76 (Sep 15, 2009)

Do you guys find that Stihl dealers are flexible on price? As in, you won't pay what they list for on the websites?


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## smokinj (Sep 15, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> Do you guys find that Stihl dealers are flexible on price? As in, you won't pay what they list for on the websites?


the last saw I got 10 percent off, and there price was lower that what was on the web. Got a ms 260 list 499.00 pick it up for 430 including tax.  This was in may 2009


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## smabon (Sep 15, 2009)

You might be able to get them to through in an extra chain or a case.  Before you go in to my I would suggest doing some homework first.  Go in talk to them about the saw that you are looking at.  Tell them you are planning on buying the saw soon, maybe next week.  While you are there also get an idea of how much they are selling chaps, helmet and case for.  Go home and do some math and figure out a package deal for all 4.  maybe add up all 4 and take 10-15% off.  Go back and make an offer.  Won't hurt to try and see what they say.


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## Skier76 (Sep 15, 2009)

Some good advice. Thanks everyone!


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## Gooserider (Sep 16, 2009)

If it hasn't been said before, in addition to Husky / Stihl, etc. take a look at Dolmar, which is also sometimes sold as Makita (especially the Home-Depot ex-rentals)  The Dolmar 5100 is considered by many to be a really good "one saw" plan choice, light enough to be good for limbing and light cutting, powerful enough to take on some pretty hefty rounds w/o flinching...  The 6400 / 7200 / 7900 series (same engine w/ different pistons and cylinders) is another excellent choice.  Quality is definitely pro-class, price can often be a bit less than the comparable H/S models...  However a lot depends on what you have for local dealers, the Dolmar dealer network isn't as well developed as the other brands, so it depends somewhat on where you live.

Gooserider


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## Skier76 (Sep 16, 2009)

Thanks Goose! It actually looks like there's a dealer near me in CT...and in VT. 

Looks like the 5100 is a few ticks under $400?


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## smokinj (Sep 16, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> Thanks Goose! It actually looks like there's a dealer near me in CT...and in VT.
> 
> Looks like the 5100 is a few ticks under $400?



if you find it for under 400 thats a great deal


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## Wet1 (Sep 16, 2009)

Skier,

I have more saws than I can count off the top of my head and I'll tell you all three (Stihl, Husky, and Dolmar) make a great pro level saw.  The best bang for your $ is Dolmar.  I'm a HUGE fan of there 7900, but that might be more saw than you're looking for.  The 5100 is also an excellent saw/value.  There's a Dolmar dealer in NE CT (the owners name is Brad) and he'll give you an excellent deal on a Dolmar.  You may not need a pro level saw, but if this is something you plan on sticking with, buy a good saw once and be done with it.

If I were going to own only one saw, a 60cc pro level saw would probably be what I'd want.  You don't have to buy new either.  You can find some good deals on a used Stihl 036/360/361 and those are fantastic saws that will last you a lifetime.  A 60cc pro level saw will pull up to a 25" bar, but can also be run all day with an 18" bar on it, without wearing you down.  Anything less than a 60cc saw might not be enough saw to handle larger tasks, and as a scrounger and property owner, you don't know what will be needed at any given time.  Once you get over 60cc, the saws tend to get bigger and possibly a little heavy to be used for limbing and smaller work.  Although the 79cc Dolmar 7900 (mentioned above) is a light weight power house and I could certainly live with it as my only saw if I had to.  

If you are willing to steep up to a two saw plan (and I would suggest this if you're going to be processing wood for a long time to come), then a nice light 50cc class limbing saw and a larger 70cc+ class saw would be my first choice.  The 5100 and 7900 is a tough combo to be, especially for the money.  I do like the 346xp and the 260 a hair better, but the 5100 is a very close third.  The 7900 is in a class by itself within the 70cc saw.

Buying a 5100 now and then adding a 7900 later should you see the need would be a great strategy.


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## CTburning (Sep 16, 2009)

You could also look at Jonsored which is essentially Husky.  They have a trade in program for $90 towards the purchase of a 2255.  It's a 55 cc saw and can run up to a 20" bar in case you find some big rounds in the future.  The trade in puts it at the same price as the Stihl and Dolmar saws.  I choose Jonsored because of the dealer but all three are great saws.  I would get a little bigger saw and with all things in life you are going to find a need for it if you have it.  Better to spend $400 on one saw that can do 95% of what you can throw at it.  Buy it with a 16" bar and you always pick up a 20" in the future.  Just my 2 cents


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## Skier76 (Sep 16, 2009)

You guys have given me a lot to think about! And I certainly appreciate that. 

I've scanned craigs for used saws and I've seen a bunch. What do you guys do when looking at used saws? Compression tests? I just worry that someone ran the saw lean it's entire life and the cylinder is slightly scored. Something that'll work great for a while, then one day, you're left holding a saw with 10psi of compression.


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## Wet1 (Sep 16, 2009)

If you don't know a lot about saws, just run it and see how she runs.  A solid saw should obviously be a good runner.  A compression test is always a good idea if you have a tester and know how to do it.  You can also pull the muffler off and visually inspect the P&C;to check for score marks.  Most used saws will have some slight marks, but you don't want to see anything excessive or deep.   If you're looking at pro saws, both the P&C;can usually be changed quite easily if need be.


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## Gooserider (Sep 16, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> You guys have given me a lot to think about! And I certainly appreciate that.
> 
> I've scanned craigs for used saws and I've seen a bunch. What do you guys do when looking at used saws? Compression tests? I just worry that someone ran the saw lean it's entire life and the cylinder is slightly scored. Something that'll work great for a while, then one day, you're left holding a saw with 10psi of compression.



Compression is certainly a thing to look at - as a quick and dirty test try picking the saw up by the starter handle (ignition OFF) - if the saw stays on the ground, or the handle unrolls quickly, leave it there.  If the saw comes up and stays up, or goes down very slowly with definite "compression bumps" it is likely to be within tolerable range...

I would also look at overall condition - clean / dirty?  Amount of wear on the chain?  Is the chain sharp? Is there a lot of slop in the links? (lots of slop in a chain w/o a lot of cutter wear suggests having been run w/o proper bar oil) Was the chain lubed with bar oil (good) or used engine oil (run away)?  Is the bar badly worn, or does it have burn spots on it? Check the air filter - clean? If the rest of the saw looks like it was well cared for, the engine is probably OK, if not then the engine is more suspect.    Does the owner sound like he has a clue about saws (unless it's being sold by widow or other relative) and does the "story" about why it's being sold seem to agree with the condition?

Essentially the same sorts of things you'd look at when buying a used car or any other sort of second hand item.

If possible start it up and try a couple of cuts with it - problems w/ starting don't necessarily disqualify a saw, but are reason to be wary...

Note that "consumer grade" saws are generally not worth the trouble / cost of doing much more than minor repairs on, while "pro-grade" saws are usually worth moderate efforts if the price is right - they are easier to work on, and get parts for, not to mention ending up with a finished product that has real value...

Also know what a given saw should cost new - and look for prices that are appropriate.  A really "primo" saw might be worth as much as 70-80% of new, average might be 50% and some might be tempting as $5-10 project saws depending on condition and what the saw is...

Gooserider


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## Skier76 (Sep 17, 2009)

Wet and Goose,
Thanks so much for the explanations! That gives me a good idea of what to look for. 

Would an MS250 be "pro" saw or is that more of a high end occational use saw? 

Maybe I should check out used saws for the heck of it. There are a few Stihl's on my local craigs right now.


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## Wet1 (Sep 17, 2009)

The MS250 is not a pro saw.  The 260 is though.  Feel free to send me a PM if you have a question about some of the local used options.


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## Bigg_Redd (Sep 17, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> Wet and Goose,
> Thanks so much for the explanations! That gives me a good idea of what to look for.
> 
> Would an MS250 be "pro" saw or is that more of a high end occational use saw?
> ...




If you're on a budget, I would.  I can't count the number of 20+ year old Stihl saws around here that run fine.  They just don't wear out.


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## Skier76 (Sep 17, 2009)

With some advice from Wet1...I'll look into the used pro saws. Seems those may be a bit beefier than the homeowner Stihls. If I go new, I'll probably look into the MS250 and the like.


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## Wet1 (Sep 17, 2009)

Honestly, if you're going to spend the money on a new 250, I'd suggest just picking up that new 5100 instead... it's a better saw.


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## smokinj (Sep 17, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> With some advice from Wet1...I'll look into the used pro saws. Seems those may be a bit beefier than the homeowner Stihls. If I go new, I'll probably look into the MS250 and the like.


The 290 is a midrange saw 57 cc and will last a wood scrounger 2 life times if taken care of. The problem with a used pro saw is just that, it more than likely seen pretty heavy use. Buy new one time and forget about it


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## Wet1 (Sep 17, 2009)

Agreed, although I wouldn't say pro saws on the used market have more than likely seen heavy use or abuse.  I've bought dozens that have been very well maintained and/or have had an easy life.  I'd guess most pro level saws aren't in the hands of daily loggers.

The downside to the homeowner grade saws (IMO) is they typically are heavier and have less power then their pro counterparts.  Also, a basic or complete rebuild is cheap and easy on a pro saw should you ever have to do so for any reason... the same cannot be said about most HO grade saws.

With Skier's current needs, I suspect a HO grade saw will serve him well.  I just prefer to buy good tools and buy them once.  I also suspect he's going to do more wood processing in the future than he currently is.   I know I remember picking up a piece of pine here and there as well and thinking my 60cc Homelite was all I'd ever need... and I'm sure you went down a similar path Smokin before you ended up with the 260/460.


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## smokinj (Sep 17, 2009)

Wet1 said:
			
		

> Agreed, although I wouldn't say pro saws on the used market have more than likely seen heavy use or abuse. I've bought dozens that have been very well maintained and/or have had an easy life. I'd guess most pro level saws aren't in the hands of daily loggers.
> 
> The downside to the homeowner grade saws (IMO) is they typically are heavier and have less power then their pro counterparts. Also, a basic or complete rebuild is cheap and easy on a pro saw should you ever have to do so for any reason... the same cannot be said about most HO grade saws.
> 
> With Skier's current needs, I suspect a HO grade saw will serve him well. I just prefer to buy good tools and buy them once. I also suspect he's going to do more wood processing in the future than he currently is. I know I remember picking up a piece of pine here and there as well and thinking my 60cc Homelite was all I'd ever need... and I'm sure you went down a similar path Smokin before you ended up with the 260/460.



not like this guy he is talking price point and that never interred my mind the 460 was my one saw plain and the 260 after thought and still could get by without it. Came real close to going with the 660 but went with the lighter 460 and upgraded it right out of the box. If I had another shot at it we would be talking 361/660 combo. I wasnt worried at all about the money of a saw. knowing that my investment on my furance.It sure is hard enough getting wood when everything is perfect! Going into the game I was aware that my saw needed to be 28 in. that's how I was looking at it


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## daveswoodhauler (Sep 17, 2009)

Saw this one....not sure if it is near you or if the price is reasonable:

http://hartford.craigslist.org/grd/1333994859.html

and stats:

http://www.bargainshopper.ca/bradfordrental/stihl/stihl_ms360.htm


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## Skier76 (Sep 17, 2009)

Wet brings up a good point. My current firewood needs/wants will probably change. Maybe down the road we'll get an insert for the house in CT as well. Maybe I'll befriend someone who runs a tree service...you just never know. I know that I could probably get a "so-so" saw and be happy with it...if nothing ever changed. 

ilikewood,
I saw (no pun intended!) that one too. I'm kinda thinking once I hit the $300 mark...it may make more sense to just go with new. Who knows though...I'll probably change my mind again. HA!


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## smokinj (Sep 17, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> Wet brings up a good point. My current firewood needs/wants will probably change. Maybe down the road we'll get an insert for the house in CT as well. Maybe I'll befriend someone who runs a tree service...you just never know. I know that I could probably get a "so-so" saw and be happy with it...if nothing ever changed.
> 
> ilikewood,
> I saw (no pun intended!) that one too. I'm kinda thinking once I hit the $300 mark...it may make more sense to just go with new. Who knows though...I'll probably change my mind again. HA!



say it's not so? lol your all over the place whatever you decide I'm sure you are well informed


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## Bigg_Redd (Sep 18, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> Wet brings up a good point. My current firewood needs/wants will probably change. Maybe down the road we'll get an insert for the house in CT as well. Maybe I'll befriend someone who runs a tree service...you just never know. I know that I could probably get a "so-so" saw and be happy with it...if nothing ever changed.
> 
> ilikewood,
> I saw (no pun intended!) that one too. I'm kinda thinking once I hit the $300 mark...it may make more sense to just go with new. Who knows though...I'll probably change my mind again. HA!




Say you go nuts and spend $600 and get a 361.  Amortized over the 30+ the extra $300 is $30 per annum.  Almost free, really.


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## ikessky (Sep 18, 2009)

For the amount I cut this year, I probably would have been better off with a 361 vs. my 290.  I certainly don't feel too bad though.  I really didn't get into anything that bogged it down real bad, even when I was running the crappy safety chain.  I'll probably mod the muffler this winter and see how much extra I get from that.  Then, once the boys get old enough to run the saw, I'll give them the 290 to use and I'll go get a 440 or something like that!


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## Skier76 (Sep 25, 2009)

I went to a Stihl dealer today after work. I don't exactly like this place (I had a bad experience with them mounting ATV tires for me) so I figured I would go there, handle some saws and no one would bother with me. Basically, that's what happened. 

I guess I'm kinda torn between the MS250 and the MS290. The Farm Boss was actually cheaper. However, it was heavier...but it does have a bigger engine. I think the 250 they had the ez start thing, 18" bar and tool less chain adjuster.


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## SolarAndWood (Sep 25, 2009)

As soon as you are feeding a stove at both houses, you are going to want a good light fast saw.


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## mike1234 (Sep 25, 2009)

If I didn't like my Stihl dealer, I would buy something else.  You might not need them much, but for new chain, or a new bar, or maybe some advice on something, you will be talking to them.  
Both of these saws will get bogged down at times, as will all saws of this range.  One way to combat that is to buy the smaller bar, 18 or even down to 16" will help with that.
For me, My 290 is about equal to my 270.  The 290 is heavier, much heavier, and actually it has lower rpms than the 270.  I've done some work to both of my saws, but before I did, the 290 seemed like the better saw, now the 270 is my favorite hands down, mostly because it is so much lighter.  
If you don't need a 20" bar, the lighter saw may be your best bet.



			
				Skier76 said:
			
		

> I went to a Stihl dealer today after work. I don't exactly like this place (I had a bad experience with them mounting ATV tires for me) so I figured I would go there, handle some saws and no one would bother with me. Basically, that's what happened.
> 
> I guess I'm kinda torn between the MS250 and the MS290. The Farm Boss was actually cheaper. However, it was heavier...but it does have a bigger engine. I think the 250 they had the ez start thing, 18" bar and tool less chain adjuster.


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## ikessky (Sep 25, 2009)

You guys need to hit the weights a little bit  ;-P   I've run my 290 for hours at a time without much fatigue.  I'm a pretty decent size though.


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## mike1234 (Sep 25, 2009)

ikessky said:
			
		

> You guys need to hit the weights a little bit  ;-P   I've run my 290 for hours at a time without much fatigue.  I'm a pretty decent size though.



Ouch, that hurts.   :coolsmirk:


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## smokinj (Sep 25, 2009)

mike1234 said:
			
		

> ikessky said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



lol thats about right who care's how much a saw weights if its doing the job that you need it to do


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## ikessky (Sep 25, 2009)

mike1234 said:
			
		

> ikessky said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I figured you could probably handle it!   ;-) 

I think eventually I'll go to a 361 or bigger.  That will be once the boys get old enough to use the 290 though.  For now, the 290 is adequate for me.  I'm still thinking about modding the muffler this winter though.


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## LLigetfa (Sep 25, 2009)

mike1234 said:
			
		

> ikessky said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Suck it up, Buttercup!  Back when I worked clean-up on pipeline hydro-testing, I carried my 16-17 lb R420 for 12-16 hours every day.


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## smokinj (Sep 25, 2009)

LLigetfa said:
			
		

> mike1234 said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


its that power head weight only?


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## LLigetfa (Sep 25, 2009)

smokinj said:
			
		

> its that power head weight only?


I don't really know what it weighs.  I just googled and found a spec that said 16.5 lbs with B/C.  Not sure if it includes gas and oil too.  You know how they take liberties with the specs.  It's a mostly metal 65cc saw.  Probably explains why my knuckles drag on the ground.


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## smokinj (Sep 25, 2009)

LLigetfa said:
			
		

> smokinj said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



i'd say that saw loaded and with bar would come in well over 20lb's


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## Skier76 (Sep 25, 2009)

mike1234 said:
			
		

> If I didn't like my Stihl dealer, I would buy something else.  You might not need them much, but for new chain, or a new bar, or maybe some advice on something, you will be talking to them.
> Both of these saws will get bogged down at times, as will all saws of this range.  One way to combat that is to buy the smaller bar, 18 or even down to 16" will help with that.
> For me, My 290 is about equal to my 270.  The 290 is heavier, much heavier, and actually it has lower rpms than the 270.  I've done some work to both of my saws, but before I did, the 290 seemed like the better saw, now the 270 is my favorite hands down, mostly because it is so much lighter.
> If you don't need a 20" bar, the lighter saw may be your best bet.
> ...



Luckily, this isn't the only local dealer. I knew it would be hit or miss, so I just want to look and handle some saws. The next dealer is closer to where I work and is listed as an "Elite" dealer with onsite repairs. I have higher hopes for their customer service.


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## thinkxingu (Sep 25, 2009)

Hello There,
     It's not necessarily about being strong: I'm 5'7, 260 pounds and can bench press 325 and squat 415, but I still choose to work with lightweight tools, equipment, and materials when I can.  My hiking gear is all ultralight, my tools are all lithium-ion, and I chose the MS250 because it's light and easy to maneuver.

Would the 290 be a bit more powerful?  Maybe, but the 250 is more comfortable and, for scrounging a few cords a year, as effective.  No need to get saw envy here!

S


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## daveswoodhauler (Sep 25, 2009)

thinkxingu said:
			
		

> Hello There,
> It's not necessarily about being strong: I'm 5'7, 260 pounds and can bench press 325 and squat 415, but I still choose to work with lightweight tools, equipment, and materials when I can.  My hiking gear is all ultralight, my tools are all lithium-ion, and I chose the MS250 because it's light and easy to maneuver.
> 
> Would the 290 be a bit more powerful?  Maybe, but the 250 is more comfortable and, for scrounging a few cords a year, as effective.  No need to get saw envy here!
> ...



Going to duck and run after this...wouldn't it just be easier to try to drop a few pounds vs. going out and getting ultralight equipment.
Reminds me of when I used to quasi race Mt Bikes...guys pushing 250lbs on a titanium frame to shed a few pounds....ok, going to run now...


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## ikessky (Sep 25, 2009)

I started it by pulling the pin, but it looks like ilikewood flipped the handle and actually threw the grenade

By the way, I was just giving you guys a hard time about hitting the weights.  My body as well would probably appreciate a lighter saw, and I'm sure I'll pay for it when I'm an older man.


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## thinkxingu (Sep 25, 2009)

ilikewood,
     I know what you mean: a pound on your feet is four pounds on your back, but when it comes to holding a saw up, my weight doesn't matter.  Why choose to use a heavier, bulkier tool that will do the same job?

S


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## daveswoodhauler (Sep 25, 2009)

thinkxingu said:
			
		

> ilikewood,
> I know what you mean: a pound on your feet is four pounds on your back, but when it comes to holding a saw up, my weight doesn't matter.  Why choose to use a heavier, bulkier tool that will do the same job?
> 
> S



Just kidding....well, my reason would be financial.
I am guessing you could buya saw that weighs X amount for $500, and by spending an additional $200, you could probably decrease the weight by 10-15%.
Not a good example....but my bike was appx $900 and was appx 23lbs....go up to a titanium frame and headset, etc...would be $1700-$1900..and would save you a few pounds....not worth it in my opinion.
I could lose some pounds as well


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## thinkxingu (Sep 25, 2009)

ilikewood,
     Stop being so cheap.  JK, but I was thinking of going the other way: the MS250 was $100 less than the 290 when I bought it--I saved weight and money, and I'm pretty sure the 250 will do everything I'll ever need to do.

In the immortal justificatory words of Cartman: "I'm not fat, I'm big-boned."

S


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## smokinj (Sep 25, 2009)

thinkxingu said:
			
		

> ilikewood,
> Stop being so cheap.  JK, but I was thinking of going the other way: the MS250 was $100 less than the 290 when I bought it--I saved weight and money, and I'm pretty sure the 250 will do everything I'll ever need to do.
> 
> In the immortal justificatory words of Cartman: "I'm not fat, I'm big-boned."
> ...



and -10cc and that about the going rate 100.00 per 10cc of saw


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## daveswoodhauler (Sep 25, 2009)

Just jealous of you guys having enough cash to buy saws every season.....you guys would be in trouble if you did the same with cars 
just kiddin


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## DBoon (Sep 26, 2009)

> You guys need to hit the weights a little bit   I’ve run my 290 for hours at a time without much fatigue.  I’m a pretty decent size though.



Hey Ikessky, I've been hitting the weights and gym for 25 years and I am now up to 145 lbs.  Light is good for me. 

The Dolmar P5100S hasn't been discussed in a while - good saw. I was all set to buy the Stihl MS-290 Farm Boss, even with the weight, but after I held the P5100S, it was a done deal for me.


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## smokinj (Sep 26, 2009)

DBoon said:
			
		

> > You guys need to hit the weights a little bit   I’ve run my 290 for hours at a time without much fatigue.  I’m a pretty decent size though.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




lol strap on a 361 weights less than a pound more than the 5100 and the 260 weights about pound lighter not kocking the dolmar but if your going to compare the 290 not the same class as the 5100 dolmar


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## Bigg_Redd (Sep 26, 2009)

thinkxingu said:
			
		

> ilikewood,
> Stop being so cheap.  JK, but I was thinking of going the other way: the MS250 was $100 less than the 290 when I bought it--I saved weight and money, and *I'm pretty sure the 250 will do everything I'll ever need to do.*
> 
> In the immortal justificatory words of Cartman: "I'm not fat, I'm big-boned."
> ...



Well. . . it will have to now, won't it.


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## ikessky (Sep 27, 2009)

DBoon said:
			
		

> Hey Ikessky, I've been hitting the weights and gym for 25 years and I am now up to 145 lbs.  Light is good for me.
> 
> The Dolmar P5100S hasn't been discussed in a while - good saw. I was all set to buy the Stihl MS-290 Farm Boss, even with the weight, but after I held the P5100S, it was a done deal for me.


I haven't been 145lbs probably since junior high!

My uncle just bought a Dolmar 5100 and really likes it.  I was hoping he'd let me try it out this weekend, but the opportunity never arose.

There are a lot of great saws on the market.  I've used Huskies, Stihls, and Johnsereds and can say good things about each of the ones that I've used.  Simply put, the 290 was the best bang for my buck at the time when I bought it.


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## ATVriderINmass (Sep 27, 2009)

Echo has a 5 year consumer warrenty and havent heard of many people needing to use it.. I'm very happy with mine.


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## DBoon (Sep 27, 2009)

> lol strap on a 361 weights less than a pound more than the 5100 and the 260 weights about pound lighter not kocking the dolmar but if your going to compare the 290 not the same class as the 5100 dolmar



I just didn't see the Stihl 260 in the same class as the Dolmar, plus, it didn't have the anti-vibration mounts.  And the Dolmar was a high RPM and high power saw, and I needed to cut through a lot of nasty hickory, which it has done very well at.  I also though I might be loaning it to my father-in-law (he is 70+, not as strong as he used to be, and can't use a saw long due to the vibrations). 

I'm not knocking the Stihl saws - I think they are good saws - but for me, the Dolmar was the right choice.  If the Farm Boss had been $100 less than the Dolmar (it was the same price) or if I had been 50 pounds heavier, I might have gone with that one.  But the MS-260 seemed a little on the lightweight side for what I wanted it for.  I was pretty tired of using an underpowered saw to fight through the hickory, so I bought the most powerful, lightest weight saw I could find, and the anti-vibration mounts were the tie breaker.


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## DBoon (Sep 27, 2009)

> I haven’t been 145lbs probably since junior high!



Hi Ikessky, for reference, in 7th grade I was 75 lbs.    So I'm pretty happy to be where I am at now.  Hopefully, you weren't one of the guys who threw me in a trash can now and then, just for fun


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## smokinj (Sep 27, 2009)

DBoon said:
			
		

> > lol strap on a 361 weights less than a pound more than the 5100 and the 260 weights about pound lighter not kocking the dolmar but if your going to compare the 290 not the same class as the 5100 dolmar
> 
> 
> 
> ...



i know them 5100 can cut some wood the 260 is in the same class there muffler are just more restricted both 50 cc saws both pro saw. just wondering why you would be looking at the 290 compairing it a pro saw.must be some small hickory to be looking at the small saws?and how can any saw be to light?


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## Bigg_Redd (Sep 27, 2009)

DBoon said:
			
		

> > lol strap on a 361 weights less than a pound more than the 5100 and the 260 weights about pound lighter not kocking the dolmar but if your going to compare the 290 not the same class as the 5100 dolmar
> 
> 
> 
> ...




That's odd, considering they are both 50cc saws.  And the 260 does, in fact, have anti-vibe mounts.  Just admit that you drank the Dolmer Kool Aid


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## DBoon (Sep 27, 2009)

Nope, no Kool-Aid involved.  I was actually predisposed to buy the Stihl.  I was mixing up the MS-250 and MS-260 Pro.  I never considered the MS-260 Pro since the dealer wanted nearly $500 for that.  MS-250 is not in the Dolmar P5100S class, but MS-260 Pro definitely is. 

I had to go back to the website to sort out all the model numbers.  Here was my situation:

Stihl MS-290 ($369) with an 18” bar - looks pretty good, but heavy to me.  This would probably only be used for cutting logs on the ground - it would definitely tire me out for felling and just not usable for me for overhead work.  With gas and oil, this would probably weigh close to 10% of my body weight, and that just sounds and feels like a lot after a while.  However, for bucking logs on the ground - who cares about the weight, and that’s mostly what I would use this for.

Stihl MS-270 “Wood Boss” ($399) with a 16” bar - a little less power, but less weight as well.  Also has anti-vibration “technology” (would be nice on the father-in-law’s hands). 

Husqvarna 455 “Rancher” ($399) with a 20” bar - a little lighter than the MS-290, seemingly the same power (if you believe the specs), but a longer bar, which I’m now convinced I don’t need and which may only slow me down in the tough hickory I’m buying the saw to go through.  Plus, more expensive than the MS-290, and I’m not convinced I’m getting anything better, and maybe getting something worse.

Husqvarna 346XP ($499) - this looks like one nasty little saw - lots of power, light weight, really nice.  High price, though, and not sure I really need something this small and light.  I’m ok with some weight.

Dolmar P5100-S ($394) - This is the last saw I looked at.  The balance seemed really nice on this saw - better than the others.  Couldn’t beat the weight, and with great power to boot (the best in it’s class).  And it’s got anti-vibration technology (not necessary for me, but a tie-breaking feature).  The dealer is 6 miles away from me, and there are two others within ~25 miles should something happen to the close-in dealer.  I could see using this for limbing as well as bucking, where I wouldn’t say that about the MS-290, MS-270, or 455, and it’s not the high price that the 346XP is.  I think this is the one.

Here was my original thread:  https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/37803/P15/


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## smokinj (Sep 27, 2009)

DBoon said:
			
		

> Nope, no Kool-Aid involved. I was actually predisposed to buy the Stihl. I was mixing up the MS-250 and MS-260 Pro. I never considered the MS-260 Pro since the dealer wanted nearly $500 for that. MS-250 is not in the Dolmar P5100 class, but MS-260 Pro definitely is.
> 
> I had to go back to the website to sort out all the model numbers. Here was my situation:
> 
> ...




I knew you had a method to your madness just wondering what it was around here the 260 pro you can get for 400.00 and the 5100 was 430.00 now this was back in may so i don't no where they are now I traded my 260 for a 361 and got 400.00 back out of it used! just rattle your cage a little. still think you drank the Kool-aid thats funny right there


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## ikessky (Sep 28, 2009)

DBoon said:
			
		

> > I haven’t been 145lbs probably since junior high!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Ikessky, for reference, in 7th grade I was 75 lbs.    So I'm pretty happy to be where I am at now.  Hopefully, you weren't one of the guys who threw me in a trash can now and then, just for fun


Goo!  :gulp:   My son is in kindergarten and he's over 50lbs.  We must just make them a little bit bigger up here!  :lol:   No trash can throwing though.  And I hope my kids stick up for the smaller ones at school.

My brother has a 346xp and it is a great saw.  My dad runs a Johnsered (not sure of the model) and it too is a good saw.  My FIL has a few 357xp's, some Johnsereds, and some other smaller Huskies.  I've used all of the and they are all pretty good.  To me, the saw market is kind of like the truck market.  Ford, Chevy, and Dodge all make pretty good trucks and I'll try them all out before I buy.


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## Skier76 (Sep 28, 2009)

I'll give the Dolmar saws a look. Sounds like a good number of people are happy with them. 

I agree...this is all probably a brand debate over anything. At least I'm not saying: "I'll just save a few hundred and get a Homelite....I'm sure it's similar to Stihl/Dolmar....."


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## kenny chaos (Sep 28, 2009)

Anybody for a MS 441?  
It's got less than a mile on it.
If you gotta ask, you can't afford it.


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## smokinj (Sep 28, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> I'll give the Dolmar saws a look. Sounds like a good number of people are happy with them.
> 
> I agree...this is all probably a brand debate over anything. At least I'm not saying: "I'll just save a few hundred and get a Homelite....I'm sure it's similar to Stihl/Dolmar....."




yep your on to somthing now match up the homelite to a ms 441 or the dolmar 7900


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## WoodMann (Sep 28, 2009)

Sounds more and more that the MS250 would be the saw of choice for the inquiring fellow. Wait and watch to get a decent deal on one..........


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## smokinj (Sep 28, 2009)

WoodMann said:
			
		

> Sounds more and more that the MS250 would be the saw of choice for the inquiring fellow. Wait and watch to get a decent deal on one..........



lol I was just kidding


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## Danno77 (Sep 28, 2009)

LOL, I just read through 6+ pages of this stuff, and I seriously have to laugh at y'all. I understand that this is a big chunk of change, I don't make a whole lot of money, so I can appreciate the hesitation when spending that large of a sum on something like a chainsaw. I was lucky enough to get mine as a gift from grandpa when the Drs told him that pacemakers and chainsaws aren't supposed to go together. 

[Funny sidestory: My saw was stolen from Grandpa (for his own safety), but later granted as a gift. Dad borrowed Grandpa's Stihl (don't remember model #, but it had 16" bar on it) and just kept it around his house because he didn't want Grandpa using it like we knew he would. Well, I'm on the phone with grandma one day and I asked to talk to Grandpa. She walked around the house looking for him; suddenly she says that she hears my dad outside and looks out the window of the kitchen. My 80 year old grandpa (not my dad) is standing in the loader of the John Deere Backhoe/loader (used a ladder to get into the bucket) and is trimming a tree above his head. Until then everyone had forgotten that grandpa had another Stihl. I had to call Dad to get over to the farm and take it from him. My grandpa can't sit still even though his arthritis and heart are so bad the doctors wonder how he can make it out of bed.]

Anyway, I love my Stihl 028WB, I've run a few different NEWer Farm Boss saws of different sizes, and also some cheaper saws like Poulan and the like. Everytime I see one of those fancy nice looking new 22" Poulans in a store I start wondering if it's worth the $150 bucks or whatever, then I remember how many problems my neighbors have with theirs and that they only use it a couple times a year to cut up fallen branches, or something of that nature.

My point is this. I've seen more suggestions on these pages than I can count on my fingers and toes, and I bet you'd be happy with any of them. Just jump in already, and get your new saw to some wood. These guys here know too much for their own good, and will keep you second guessing for the rest of your life, lol!!

PS - I'm a tall lanky guy, weighing in at around 165-175 (at 6'2") depending on how much wood I'm splitting or how many miles I've been running. I may look like a twig, but I didn't see a saw mentioned that I couldn't run all day long. well, assuming that the chain is good and the saw runs. nothing beats you down faster than having to push a saw through wood and having to work hard to pull start it.

Actually, now that I think about it, I have a 12" electric deal from wal-mart (remington) and for some reason, when I use it for more than an hour I always end up with sore hands the next day. Something about how I have to grip the safety on it and manually oil it, I dunno, but takes more work sometimes than a nice big saw!


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## Sleepy (Sep 28, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> I'll give the Dolmar saws a look. Sounds like a good number of people are happy with them.
> 
> I agree...this is all probably a brand debate over anything. At least I'm not saying: "I'll just save a few hundred and get a Homelite....I'm sure it's similar to Stihl/Dolmar....."






Homelite=Chicom At least the newer ones. (no offense intended to anyone on the forum)

I have the bug to get a bigger saw and was looking at Homelite and Echo at Home Depot yesterday. I was just comparing, but was not impressed with either one. The Echo was "made in the US of US and imported components".

My local hardware sells Husqvarna. I am stopping there today and will probably get one. 

My motto is: Buy local from someone who can provide good service. Pay extra if needed.


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## WoodMann (Sep 28, 2009)

smokinj said:
			
		

> WoodMann said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



No, really. I tell myself that _someday_ I'll have a MS250..................


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## Sleepy (Sep 28, 2009)

The local hardware store has a nice power equipment section with a good service department and I have spent a lot of money there over the years. 
I stopped there on the way home from work today to look at their Husqvarna saws. I guy I know who works for a local landscaper was there, so I asked what they use. Shindaiwa. I bought a Shindaiwa trimmer a couple of years ago, but didn't know they made saws. This guy has an older 488 18" and cuts 10 cords a year with no complaints. So does his brother. His has a 20" bar.

So now I am likely to buy a 490 Shindaiwa. I asked the store owner what the difference was between it and the 450, 460 Husqvarnas I was looking at. The answer was plastic case vs metal. The 490 is a pro series and has a metal crankcase. He also said that they have had a couple of Husqvarna landowner series come back. Also a large local tree company runs Shindaiwas. The price was $425, the same as the 450 Husqvarna. The display saw has an 18" Oregon bar and chain.


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## Brian VT (Sep 28, 2009)

I like my screaming little Dolmar 5100s. Fun saw that is great for 90% of my firewood cutting.
Regardless of the saw(s) you have, learn to tune them yourself. Most come pretty lean from the factory in order to get through EPA regs.

Here's a 16" section of a 24" standing dead ash I just took down.
18" Dolmar bar (16" usable), 3/8 sq. chisel Total chain.

http://s388.photobucket.com/albums/oo329/BrianVT16/trees/?action=view&current=DSCN3177.flv


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## rdust (Sep 29, 2009)

Brian VT said:
			
		

> Here's a 16" section of a 24" standing dead ash I just took down.
> 18" Dolmar bar (16" usable), 3/8 sq. chisel Total chain.
> 
> http://s388.photobucket.com/albums/oo329/BrianVT16/trees/?action=view&current=DSCN3177.flv



It sure sounds cute, kinda like a little import/tuner car.  :lol:  Just messing with you, it rips pretty good!


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## DBoon (Sep 29, 2009)

> I’ve used all of the and they are all pretty good.  To me, the saw market is kind of like the truck market.  Ford, Chevy, and Dodge all make pretty good trucks and I’ll try them all out before I buy.



Yes, agreed.  The Husqvarna 346xp, the Stihl MS-260 Pro, and the Dolmar P5100-S were all the same kind of features and weight.  The Dolmar ended up being the least expensive and with the closest dealer.  It also happened to just feel best in my hands (hard to describe).  That pretty much sums it up.  I probably would have been happy with any of them.


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## Skier76 (Sep 29, 2009)

Brian VT said:
			
		

> I like my screaming little Dolmar 5100s. Fun saw that is great for 90% of my firewood cutting.
> Regardless of the saw(s) you have, learn to tune them yourself. Most come pretty lean from the factory in order to get through EPA regs.
> 
> Here's a 16" section of a 24" standing dead ash I just took down.
> ...



Nice vid! 

I found a Dolmar dealer somewhat near me in VT located in South Newfane.


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