# My Damper just broke?  EKO 25, what next?



## RDabate (Feb 13, 2014)

Last night, I was starting a burn, and and smoke was just everywhere.  I didn't think much of it at the time, just thought maybe I wasn't paying attention or something.  Well, just happened again, and after looking a little closer, the damper was still shut, even though the door was open with the lever pulled out.  So I poked at it with a rod and it just fell right off.  

2 Questions.

1)  I probably shouldn't run the thing like this right?
2) Any suggestions on how I should go about fixing?

I have started taking things apart yet.


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## mr.fixit (Feb 13, 2014)

Looks like the nuts just fell off of the threaded stud on it. It should have 2 nuts tightened against each other on that stud to allow some movement on the flap.

You can access it by taking off the panel on top,should be an easy fix,don't use it until you get it fixed though.


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## Fred61 (Feb 13, 2014)

The manner in which you asked your question makes me think you don't know the mechanics of those linkages in the exhaust area. If you don't know, I'll do my best to keep from scolding you. At least two or three times per year you should be hanging your face right over that component while cleaning the firetubes and the pipe. If you do brush the tubes on a regular bases what are you looking at? Wouldn't you be inquisitive or curious enough to survey the area to see how things work?

If you haven't cleaned your boiler then your going to get a chance to practice dismantling the panels so take notes because after you re-attach the damper you should be accessing that area to clean your boiler at least one more time before the end of the heating season. For this session you're going to need a flashlight to locate the nut, a wrench and a tube brush.


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## henfruit (Feb 13, 2014)

I hope it did not fall down one of the tubes?


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## mr.fixit (Feb 13, 2014)

henfruit said:


> I hope it did not fall down one of the tubes?


It would just end up down in the lower chamber in the ashes.Might have to sift thru the ashes to find them.

I pulled a good one a while back. Was looking down the tubes after cleaning and dropped a flashlight down one of the tubes. It was a long flashlight so it wouldn't make the turn and come out the bottom. Finally hooked it from the top with a piece of wire and pulled it out the top.Duh!


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## RDabate (Feb 14, 2014)

I found the bolt, but not the nut yet.  Are there any YouTube Video's or something that may show how to clean an EKO Boiler and what I should be doing?


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## woodsmaster (Feb 14, 2014)

wow. havnt cleaned in five years. i thougt i was bad only cleaning once so far this year


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## RDabate (Feb 14, 2014)

woodsmaster said:


> wow. havnt cleaned in five years. i thougt i was bad only cleaning once so far this year



Well, you need to understand that I had this thing installed, and the company who did it, had no idea what they were doing and I was looking for some help.  I've turned to this site for everything as I can not find anyone in Connecticut that can work on these things.  I'm not a heating an air guy, just wanted to heat the house with less oil.


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## GENECOP (Feb 14, 2014)

http://www.newhorizoncorp.com/PDF/ekomanual.pdf


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## mike van (Feb 14, 2014)

I've found a magnet to be pretty handy finding a lost piece of steel -


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## huffdawg (Feb 14, 2014)

I cleaned mine for the first time after 3 years of use , there was only a little fly ash in the fire tubes.   Now that I've removed the original turbulators and done the chain mod it is much easier to clean.  I do it every 2 weeks weather needed or not.    That mod makes the cleaning a lot more enjoyable

The nut could possibly be sitting in a pile of fly ash on the ledge where the fire tubes exit.


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## stee6043 (Feb 14, 2014)

I can't believe you guys clean your tubes so much.  I checked mine after year two and haven't looked back since.  There was nothing to speak of in my tubes after two years....zero....zip....unless you include the Robin I found trying to access the tubes one fine fall.  The attempt was unsuccessful, unfortunately for her.

I may check them again at 10 years if I absolutely have to.


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## ihookem (Feb 14, 2014)

I have the self cleaning EKO 25. I go in once a year to clean it out. Every time I look down there it seems there is no reason to take it apart or clean. I burn very dry wood though.


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## RDabate (Feb 15, 2014)

ihookem said:


> I have the self cleaning EKO 25. I go in once a year to clean it out. Every time I look down there it seems there is no reason to take it apart or clean. I burn very dry wood though.



"Self Cleaning"?  Is this the one with the arm on the side that you crank up an down?  This is what I have.  Again, sorry if my Terminology is off.


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## goosegunner (Feb 15, 2014)

I hope you guys are being sarcastic about not cleaning your boilers...?

I burn really dry wood with my Econoburn and storage. My boiler hardly ever idles because I track my wood every day. The required wood goes up to reach the target temps as the boiler use extends after cleaning.  After about a month you can see it on the flue temp and output temps.  There is no way heat transfer can be as effective through a layer of fly ash. 

It also builds up in the box above the fire tubes. This could be more specific to the Econoburn because of lack of control for fan speed.

gg


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## Fred61 (Feb 15, 2014)

By the time build-up becomes thick enough on the walls of the tubes for it to make contact with the movable turbulators, you have about ten times the amount of crud as what is necessary for efficient heat transfer. I only get a small amount of fly ash on the tubes but after brushing I can see a noticeable difference in the stack temperature.

I read an article many years ago that pertained to oil boilers but it stated the % drop in heat transfer with the slightest build-up of soot measured in microns. It was huge!

Perhaps those here that have serviced boilers have those numbers or know where to get them.

Now when fred61 says "several years ago" it was probably before most here were born


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## ihookem (Feb 16, 2014)

Rdabate, yes, I have the handle on the sides. I clean once or twice a year. When I clean my tubulators I do it a bit different. Here is what I do and maybe this is why I have stack temps from 300- 355 today. There is a pin holding the cleaning lever on. It fell off so I put a big screw driver in it. This why I can make the tubulators go up and down a lot faster. As I slam down the screw driver the lever goes forward fast and it hits the pipe that stops the lever from goingg all the way around. It slams it real hard and am sure it knocks about everything sticking in the tubes. I have attempted to take this thing apart but it is designed so foolishly  it makes me mad and I go stomping away. Maybe come spring I will try it again.


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## Fred61 (Feb 16, 2014)

ihookem said:


> Here is what I do and maybe this is why I have stack temps from 300- 355 today.


Is the temperature measured with a magnetic thermometer attached to the exterior of the pipe?


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## rkusek (Feb 17, 2014)

I haven't done the chain mod yet but I think it would be wise for anyone with with anyone with an Eko.  Cleaning with the stock parts is a PITA and might be too much for a non mechanical person.  With the chain mod and a good brush it sounds like a piece of cake plus your getting the most heat out of your wood.


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## Fred61 (Feb 17, 2014)

rkusek said:


> I haven't done the chain mod yet but I think it would be wise for anyone with with anyone with an Eko.  Cleaning with the stock parts is a PITA and might be too much for a non mechanical person.  With the chain mod and a good brush it sounds like a piece of cake plus your getting the most heat out of your wood.


I'm glad I did it! Tubes are brushed more often as a result. Years prior with the foolish rocking mechanism in place, one brushing during the season was it. Plus wear and tear on the panel anchoring points made me wonder if each cleaning would be the last one that was going to be able to hold the the panels.in place. A sheetmetal screw will only take so many cycles. I can now brush the tubes in less than 10 minutes without getting my hands dirty. (rubber gloves)

I continue to wonder if the manufacturer really thought that mechanism would actually work or did they think that their customer base was so stupid and gullible enough to buy this boiler because of all the hardware they added to make someone believe it is self cleaning.


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## henfruit (Feb 17, 2014)

Turbulators  UGH!


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## goosegunner (Feb 17, 2014)

Fred61 said:


> I'm glad I did it! Tubes are brushed more often as a result. Years prior with the foolish rocking mechanism in place, one brushing during the season was it. Plus wear and tear on the panel anchoring points made me wonder if each cleaning would be the last one that was going to be able to hold the the panels.in place. A sheetmetal screw will only take so many cycles. I can now brush the tubes in less than 10 minutes without getting my hands dirty. (rubber gloves)
> 
> I continue to wonder if the manufacturer really thought that mechanism would actually work or did they think that their customer base was so stupid and gullible enough to buy this boiler because of all the hardware they added to make someone believe it is self cleaning.



The linkage/ turbulator is a really crappy design. It was probably added to knock down some of the ash that gets hung up on the turbulators. There are probably many more users who don't do much cleaning at all, so they probably figured better put something in there to keep it from clogging completely.

I know after having a similar set up for 4 years my boiler selection and suggestions would most likely be different for a new purchase.  Problem is every boiler I have read about has some type of issue, nozzles, crappy welds, thin metal, expensive controls, smoke spillage, the list goes on and on. Some owners and dealers here just won't admit it about their boiler.

On the top of my list today for recommendations would be the Froling because it does seem to be the one boiler that has everything covered. The thing to get past would be cost of replacement parts.  Seems like an awesome unit, maybe not so awesome if you ever have to replace the controller, O2 sensor, motors or fan.

gg


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## goosegunner (Feb 17, 2014)

How much does the chain mod restrict air flow compared to factory twisted turbulators?

With the forced draft EKO does it cause more door leakage?

Did you have to reduce fan settings?

gg


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## maple1 (Feb 17, 2014)

henfruit said:


> Turbulators  UGH!


 
Tools needed to remove door/cover to brush tubes  UGH!


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## huffdawg (Feb 17, 2014)

You don't need any tools  if you use wing nuts on the fire tube access plate.


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## Fred61 (Feb 17, 2014)

The only tool I use is a hook that I hammered out to grab the chains rather than reaching in and grabbing them. I think the wing nuts I used were a different pitch on the threads. Went on hard the first time. Now not so difficult


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## maple1 (Feb 17, 2014)

huffdawg said:


> You don't need any tools  if you use wing nuts on the fire tube access plate.


 

Fasteners UGH!





I was just poking fun at henfruit for poking fun at turbs, since his cleaning vid shows tools used to get at the tubes for cleaning. I've got turbs too - I can do a full cleaning in 5 minutes start to finish, no UGH! involved with mine.


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## Fred61 (Feb 17, 2014)

BTW I also attached 3 inch rings to the turbulators at the same time I was attaching them to the chains. Experimented with both and saw no difference in flue temperature so I settled on the chains because they were easier to install and remove.


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## infinitymike (Feb 17, 2014)

Boy I thought you guys were rough on Wood Gun owners only.
But it seems you go after your own kind too.

RD, did you ever get fixed? Are you up and running?


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## henfruit (Feb 17, 2014)

huffdawg said:


> You don't need any tools  if you use wing nuts on the fire tube access plate.


 
That is a good idea. Then I can put my 1/2 inch wrench back in the tool box.


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## mr.fixit (Feb 17, 2014)

Any wood burning appliance is going to need some maintenance by the operator.Most all will have something wear out and need replacing sooner or later.

One thing often overlooked is the heat load and how much wood goes thru the boiler. Makes a big difference cleaning frequency and parts replacement.

Those of us that go thru 10 cord a season are naturally going to try to get every btu out of the boiler with frequent and thorough cleanings. Someone that has less heatload will probably do fine with the factory cleaning handle setup. Probably won't make alot of difference in their wood consumption.

One thing though,if your wood supply is getting down, it pays to do a good tube cleaning to maximize what wood you have left.


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## Fred61 (Feb 17, 2014)

Perhaps it's a game with me or perhaps it's a passion but I want to go the heating season using the smallest amount of wood as possible. To me it's a feeling of accomplishment. I don't have to burn wood at all. I can well afford to burn fossil fuel. After assessing the wood pile, it appears that I will burn slightly over three cords this winter. That's a guess of course since I don't know what March will bring. I consider this to be a light heating load.


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## McKraut (Mar 19, 2014)

huffdawg said:


> I cleaned mine for the first time after 3 years of use , there was only a little fly ash in the fire tubes.   Now that I've removed the original turbulators and done the chain mod it is much easier to clean.  I do it every 2 weeks weather needed or not.    That mod makes the cleaning a lot more enjoyable
> 
> .



 Huffdawg,
 Do you have more specifics about your chain modifications? The most recent thing I came across concering chains was from jebatty a while back. Am I missing a post that is more recent? The turbulators in the EKO are a pain in the arse to get out. On my old TARM it was easy as pie to clean, but these are a bear to deal with. Any help is appreciated.

Bob


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## Fred61 (Mar 19, 2014)

I removed the shaft and all the mechanical junk and salvaged the turbulators. Welded a three inch ring on each of the turbulators and also made up a set of chain turbulators. I ran the unit with each set while carefully monitoring the stack temperature and found no difference in performance. I decided to use the chains because they are easier to handle and maneuver when removing them for brushing the tubes. I made myself a hook and simply drag them out and drop them in a bucket. BTW, I had to make a plate to plug the hole that the shaft went through. Now I just pop the insulated panel off the top. Remove the gasketed cleanout access plate and pull the chain turbulators.


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## huffdawg (Mar 19, 2014)

I welded the top link sideways, Fred's looks  one step better than mine..I was thinking of welding a little  T on the top of the sideways link.   I have been grabbing them with a welding rod bent into a hook.


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## McKraut (Mar 24, 2014)

Fred61 said:


> I removed the shaft and all the mechanical junk and salvaged the turbulators. Welded a three inch ring on each of the turbulators and also made up a set of chain turbulators. I ran the unit with each set while carefully monitoring the stack temperature and found no difference in performance. I decided to use the chains because they are easier to handle and maneuver when removing them for brushing the tubes. I made myself a hook and simply drag them out and drop them in a bucket. BTW, I had to make a plate to plug the hole that the shaft went through. Now I just pop the insulated panel off the top. Remove the gasketed cleanout access plate and pull the chain turbulators.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks for the pictures. I guess I am surprised that the chains work as well as the turbulators. Is the chain 3/8"? I got a new MIG welder from Santa Claus and I've been itching to weld something other than plowshare for a while. If you use 3/8" I have a few lengths left over from busted logging chains that I can use. Do the EKO 25s and 40s not have cleaning levers? How often do you clean your tubes?

Thanks,

Bob


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## Fred61 (Mar 25, 2014)

McKraut said:


> Do the EKO 25s and 40s not have cleaning levers? How often do you clean your tubes?


Yes they do however they are basically useless and a huge roadblock when it comes to cleaning. It's a major undertaking to remove the turbulators  to brush the tubes and just as much of a pain to re-assemble. The turbulators leave about 1/4 inch clearance from the walls of the tubes so when you actuate the lever no crud is removed unless there is at least 1/4 inch of it there. That's about ten times the amount that should be allowed in the tubes.

By removing the whole mechanism and only having the turbs in place brushing the tubes reduces the cleaning time from one hour plus to 10 to 12 minutes which gives me the incentive to brush more often. Plus if I want to do it in dress clothes I can stay clean as long as I wear a pair of rubber gloves.

I just stopped by Tractor Supply and picked up some 3 inch rings, sawed through them, twisted them enough to string the first link and re-welded the ring. Not much welding there. Nice and flexible and easy to handle.


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## McKraut (Mar 28, 2014)

Fred61 said:


> Yes they do however they are basically useless and a huge roadblock when it comes to cleaning. It's a major undertaking to remove the turbulators  to brush the tubes and just as much of a pain to re-assemble. The turbulators leave about 1/4 inch clearance from the walls of the tubes so when you actuate the lever no crud is removed unless there is at least 1/4 inch of it there. That's about ten times the amount that should be allowed in the tubes.
> 
> By removing the whole mechanism and only having the turbs in place brushing the tubes reduces the cleaning time from one hour plus to 10 to 12 minutes which gives me the incentive to brush more often. Plus if I want to do it in dress clothes I can stay clean as long as I wear a pair of rubber gloves.
> 
> I just stopped by Tractor Supply and picked up some 3 inch rings, sawed through them, twisted them enough to string the first link and re-welded the ring. Not much welding there. Nice and flexible and easy to handle.



 One last question. Is the chain 3/8" or 1/2"? I just pulled the turbulators out for the last time. My knuckles look like I just finished punching a guy with buck teeth.


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## Fred61 (Mar 28, 2014)

McKraut said:


> One last question. Is the chain 3/8" or 1/2"? I just pulled the turbulators out for the last time. My knuckles look like I just finished punching a guy with buck teeth.


I used 3/8". They give you a little more clearance to the walls but I think they scramble the flow better. Bottom line is you'll be brushing more often. You are getting rid of all that linkage, are you not?


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## easternbob (Mar 30, 2014)

Well after running my EKO 25 for 4 years I finally removed the turbs for the first time to clean the tubes. I thought maybe everyone was exagerating some about how much of a pain it was to remove the whole mechinism but now that I've experienced it they were correct!
Well there wasn't much crud in there at all just light fly ash that I was able to easily remove with a nylon brush I had (think it's an old oil burner brush?). Putting ti back together was worse than taking apart.
IF I see a big difference in performance over the next week or so I will remove the mechinism once and for all and do the chain or turbs with rings on the ends next time I clean


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## McKraut (Mar 30, 2014)

Fred61 said:


> I used 3/8". They give you a little more clearance to the walls but I think they scramble the flow better. Bottom line is you'll be brushing more often. You are getting rid of all that linkage, are you not?



 I was toying with the idea of leaving the linkage and hopefully getting some benefit from the cleaning lever. I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I was considering hanging the chain from the linkage with quick links. That way I would haven't to spend as much time pulling the apparatus apart - I could unscrew the quick links and pull the chains up. Am I wasting my time?

Bob


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## McKraut (Mar 30, 2014)

easternbob said:


> Well after running my EKO 25 for 4 years I finally removed the turbs for the first time to clean the tubes. I thought maybe everyone was exagerating some about how much of a pain it was to remove the whole mechinism but now that I've experienced it they were correct!
> Well there wasn't much crud in there at all just light fly ash that I was able to easily remove with a nylon brush I had (think it's an old oil burner brush?). Putting ti back together was worse than taking apart.
> IF I see a big difference in performance over the next week or so I will remove the mechinism once and for all and do the chain or turbs with rings on the ends next time I clean



 Keep me (us) posted. I am interested in what you find out.

Bob


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## Fred61 (Mar 30, 2014)

McKraut said:


> I wasting my time?


Short answer ---- yes


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## goosegunner (Mar 30, 2014)

McKraut said:


> I was toying with the idea of leaving the linkage and hopefully getting some benefit from the cleaning lever. I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I was considering hanging the chain from the linkage with quick links. That way I would haven't to spend as much time pulling the apparatus apart - I could unscrew the quick links and pull the chains up. Am I wasting my time?
> 
> Bob



I think the EKO is similar to the Econoburn. I just cleaned mine, instead of the top two linkage bolts I installed clevis pins. I can access the tubes with the main linkage rod still in place. I can now pull out the turbulator bar, turbulators and linkage in one piece by pulling two pins. Everything is done from top cover removal only.

gg


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## kooslf (Apr 2, 2014)

I am still in shoping mode for a boiler.  I was kind of wondering just how effective those turbulater agitators were.  Would the observations made here probably apply to all brands which use such a system?
Lloyd


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## Fred61 (Apr 2, 2014)

I believe most wood boilers and some oil boilers have turbulators in some way shape or form. I wouldn't use turbulators nor lack there of as criteria for choosing a boiler. To me, it's a non issue.


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## maple1 (Apr 3, 2014)

kooslf said:


> I am still in shoping mode for a boiler.  I was kind of wondering just how effective those turbulater agitators were.  Would the observations made here probably apply to all brands which use such a system?
> Lloyd


 
To clarify - you're asking not about turbulators themselves, but rather the self-enclosed cleaning mechanisms some systems use?

Seems from most of the reading I've done here, most who have them wind up not using them or not relying on them and it doesn't eliminate the need to actually pull the turbs out for a full cleaning.


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## McKraut (Apr 6, 2014)

Fred61 said:


> Short answer ---- yes




Thanks. I guess I don't know why there is cleaner. It would appear to me that  the tubes would already be too dirty before the cleaner would do anything.

Bob


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## easternbob (Apr 7, 2014)

So I cleaned my heat exchanger tubes for the first time about a week ago. With the warmer weather I haven't been running the boiler as much or as hard but I have started it from cold a couple times and I do have to say that with the brushed out tubes I am heating the water quicker. I also made a few other small changes so I can't say that the clean tubes are contributing but it seems to help.


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## woodsmaster (Apr 7, 2014)

easternbob said:


> So I cleaned my heat exchanger tubes for the first time about a week ago. With the warmer weather I haven't been running the boiler as much or as hard but I have started it from cold a couple times and I do have to say that with the brushed out tubes I am heating the water quicker. I also made a few other small changes so I can't say that the clean tubes are contributing but it seems to help.



 I can say that it is the clean tubes. It makes a hell of a difference. Just a very thin layer of fly ash cuts way down on heat transfer.


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## Fred61 (Apr 7, 2014)

McKraut said:


> Thanks. I guess I don't know why there is cleaner. It would appear to me that  the tubes would already be too dirty before the cleaner would do anything.
> 
> Bob


They're put there to make you feel good and to warm you when you activate them! Haven't you heard of "getting that _warm_ feeling".


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## woodsmaster (Apr 7, 2014)

There on there for the guys who never clean them properly. A 1/8 inch clean scrape down the tubes is better than nothing at all.


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## BoilerMan (Apr 7, 2014)

So I've been following this thread for awhile.  With all of this talk about buildup in the firetubes and cleaning makes a huge difference, what are your flue temps before and after the cleanings?  Also, of course, how are you measureing that flue temp?

TS


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## Fred61 (Apr 7, 2014)

BoilerMan said:


> So I've been following this thread for awhile.  With all of this talk about buildup in the firetubes and cleaning makes a huge difference, what are your flue temps before and after the cleanings?  Also, of course, how are you measureing that flue temp?
> 
> TS



I use a dial lab thermometer with a 6 inch probe. It's quite sensitive. I don't remember the numbers but they were significant. If you had asked the question a month ago I probably could have run the test again but being the end of the season, the next time I brush will be the last time just before it gets tucked into bed for the summer.


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## BoilerMan (Apr 7, 2014)

Fred61 said:


> I use a dial lab thermometer with a 6 inch probe. It's quite sensitive. I don't remember the numbers but they were significant. If you had asked the question a month ago I probably could have run the test again but being the end of the season, the next time I brush will be the last time just before it gets tucked into bed for the summer.


The highest I've seen is 308F with mine, my turbs are of the spiral type and are very tight when everything is up to temp.  I removed one thinking there was buildup in the fire tubes making the turbs tight.  Not at all, the darn things might have 1/16th of an inch tolerance. 

TS


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## woodsmaster (Apr 7, 2014)

How are you measuring your temps boilerman ? 308 seems to low. Should at least be 320  internal to avoid condensation. I see a hundred degree drop after I clean my tubes from 430 to 330 F. that's after about 5 or 6 cord of wood. I measure mine with a candy thermometer. I just drilled a hole about 12" away from the boiler in the stack and put the probe in the hole. ( I Know so scientific ).   1/16 inch of ash will cut way down on heat transfer.


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## Fred61 (Apr 8, 2014)

BoilerMan said:


> The highest I've seen is 308F with mine, my turbs are of the spiral type and are very tight when everything is up to temp.  I removed one thinking there was buildup in the fire tubes making the turbs tight.  Not at all, the darn things might have 1/16th of an inch tolerance.
> 
> TS


The turbs in the Eko are nothing more than a thin ribbon of bar stock that have had a twist out on them. I have seen photos hereof other turbs that appear to be more likely to do a better job, perhaps yours! Other photos I've seen appear to be stock that was wrapped on a mandrel and are more likely to be in closer proximity to the walls of the tubes. Perhaps the reason that chains work as well as the original turbs on the Eko.

If I were to guess on temperature difference between clean and dirty tubes I'd say it would be close to 100


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## BoilerMan (Apr 8, 2014)

woodsmaster said:


> How are you measuring your temps boilerman ? 308 seems to low. Should at least be 320  internal to avoid condensation. I see a hundred degree drop after I clean my tubes from 430 to 330 F. that's after about 5 or 6 cord of wood. I measure mine with a candy thermometer. I just drilled a hole about 12" away from the boiler in the stack and put the probe in the hole. ( I Know so scientific ).   1/16 inch of ash will cut way down on heat transfer.


Mine is measured with the internal temp probe that the boiler uses for shutdown.  It is directly above the #7 firetube in the back of the boiler.  I have confirmed it's readings with my thermocouple directly at the flue outlet, as I was worried about condensation as well.  No signs of it at the chimney top either, 18' of 6" class A.  But those brown icicles do form on the cap from time to time, very low temp up there when it's -30 outside I'd think. 

TS


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## hartkem (Apr 9, 2014)

I wonder if there is any solution to the factory turb clearance issue. Maybe retrofitting in something tighter that actually rubs the tubes.  I have an eko 40 and hate cleaning it. I might do the chain mod this summer and brush more often.


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## maple1 (Apr 9, 2014)

My flue temps are about 200c at full burn, internal a foot outside the boiler. My chimney is 30' tall, and I also get some icicles under the right (wrong?) conditions.

Whatever that means...


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## woodsmaster (Apr 9, 2014)

maple1 said:


> My flue temps are about 200c at full burn, internal a foot outside the boiler. My chimney is 30' tall, and I also get some icicles under the right (wrong?) conditions.
> 
> Whatever that means...


 So 392 F. not bad


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