# Best Pentrating Oil



## begreen (May 10, 2012)

This is going around the interweb in a lot of DIY machine and auto forums so I thought I would pass it on here. We seem to crack a lot of nuts and bolts here too.The best results were surprising to me at least.

"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. the test device's were clinically rusted for similar results. many bolts were used then averaged for the torque numbers. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!"

Penetrating oil... Average load.... Price per fluid ounce

None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."


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## Badfish740 (May 10, 2012)

begreen said:


> This is going around the interweb in a lot of DIY machine and auto forums so I thought I would pass it on here. We seem to crack a lot of nuts and bolts here too.The best results were surprising to me at least.
> 
> "The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. the test device's were clinically rusted for similar results. many bolts were used then averaged for the torque numbers. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!"
> 
> ...


 
Very interesting-I'll have to try the ATF-Acetone mix.  I've always been a PB Blaster fan myself-what I would like to know though is what the application method was?  Recently I actually planned ahead (for once ) on my exhaust replacement project for my 1991 Toyota pickup.  21 year old truck, original exhaust, studs/nuts holding the downpipe on completely encrusted in rust.  They are a PITA to get to so I was very nervous about breaking them.  The week prior to replacing the exhaust I gave the flange a spritz of PB Blaster three different times over the course of five days.  When I finally removed the studs they came out with minimal effort and they broke loose rather smoothly rather than with a sudden "crack."  I'm convinced that the method of application is just as important as the type of penetrating oil itself.  Now if I can only remember to do it...


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## begreen (May 10, 2012)

I read that they tested after an 8 hr immersion in the penetrating oil, but have not found the original article. However, here is a dialog with the originating author (lbender) that sheds a bit more light. Turns out the ATF was power steering fluid.

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=27429&page=2&highlight=penetrating+fluid+test


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## coaly (May 10, 2012)

I did the same thing with a brake line at an aluminum master cylinder on a 1989 Ford Ranger. The line wanted to turn with the fitting, so instead of twisting it off and replacing lines as well, I sprayed it a few times with PB over a couple weeks. The heat from the engine and time loosened it so well it came off like new. I was living with a master cylinder than leaked down slowly at a stop, without loosing fluid, so I knew I could wait. If it's something you're already taking apart and don't have the luxury of time to penetrate, that's a problem.

I tried the same thing on my Land Rover exhaust gasket between manifold and cross over pipe. I put that job off over a year listening to the tick tick tick of the exhaust leak. Sprayed it up hot and cold numerous times. Finally went to do it and found brass nuts on stainless studs !! I expected the worst, and it was a 10 minute job. Sometimes you get what you pay for.

Perhaps the Acetone / ATF will work good on stuck rings and pistons since it may disolve carbon?
I can tell you with hit and miss engines and steam engines and pumps, a week of Coca-cola, a week of brake fluid, and a week of ATF usually gets them moving. When around a working boiler with copious amounts of steam, I use an open steam line on stuck pistons in engines and pumps. Steam does wonders, just like a torch in places yuo can't use a flame.

Also in a pinch, if you're out of carb cleaner and need to clean carb parts, boil water in a tea kettle, and hold the part with pliers in the steam. It melts the goo better than any carb cleaner. It will drip off all over the kettle, so I use a coleman stove and old kettle outside.


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## Adios Pantalones (May 10, 2012)

Badfish740 said:


> Very interesting-I'll have to try the ATF-Acetone mix. I've always been a PB Blaster fan myself-what I would like to know though is what the application method was? Recently I actually planned ahead (for once ) on my exhaust replacement project for my 1991 Toyota pickup. 21 year old truck, original exhaust, studs/nuts holding the downpipe on completely encrusted in rust. They are a PITA to get to so I was very nervous about breaking them. The week prior to replacing the exhaust I gave the flange a spritz of PB Blaster three different times over the course of five days. When I finally removed the studs they came out with minimal effort and they broke loose rather smoothly rather than with a sudden "crack." I'm convinced that the method of application is just as important as the type of penetrating oil itself. Now if I can only remember to do it...


 
Ya, the more time it has to penetrate, the better. You did a good job of getting it as close to "soaking in it" as possible. I would also think that thinner fluids would penetrate easier.


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## jeff_t (May 10, 2012)

I'm in the middle of replacing ball joints in my Excursion. Twelve years in Michigan has everything under it pretty crusty. I worked on it all day Tuesday, and got to the point where I could actually get to the ball joints. I had soaked everything down with PB last week, but when I tried to get the nut off on the first upper joint, I broke my 1/2" drive breaker bar. I have a 3/4" drive, but no sockets(?), so I soaked them down several times for the rest of the day. I worked yesterday, and on the way home this morning I stopped at Harbor Freight and picked up a socket set (which was on sale for $35, by the way). The same nut that wouldn't budge on Tuesday, came right off without too much effort. I had the same pipe on the end of the big breaker bar, and they popped right loose. It could be because it's an OLD T-handle style, and doesn't flex at all like the 1/2" drive Craftsman, or it could be the soaking of the PB Blaster. The uppers have castle nuts, which gives way more area to rust. 

That was an interesting thread. I'm still a PB fan, but I'd like to get hold of some of that Kroil stuff.


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## fossil (May 10, 2012)

I always have some WD-40 around, but I don't use it in the penetrating oil context.  Liquid Wrench has always been my go-to for that purpose.  Never heard of PB or Kroil before right now.  Certainly never heard of mixing any type of hydraulic fluid with Acetone...interesting.  Rick


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## davmor (May 10, 2012)

I use Gibbs, best stuff I ever found.
http://threepeaksproducts.com/products/gibbslube/


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## fossil (May 10, 2012)

Well, there ya go...yet another one I've never heard of.


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## Jags (May 10, 2012)

fossil said:


> Certainly never heard of mixing any type of hydraulic fluid with Acetone...interesting. Rick


Rick - the power steering fluid and acetone trick is many moons old.  I can remember as a kid (with dad) using this cocktail to break free some pistons in an old Packard V8 engine block.  It does work wonders if you have the time to let it work for you.


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## fossil (May 10, 2012)

I believe ya, shipmate...every day I learn something new to me that other folks have known about forever.


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## Jags (May 10, 2012)

fossil said:


> I believe ya, shipmate...every day I learn something new to me that other folks have known about forever.


 
No doubt.  It is darn rare that I don't learn something new every day.


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## fossil (May 10, 2012)

Well, after all, everything old is new again...and All That Jazz.


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## woodgeek (May 10, 2012)

tranny fluid?  **shudder**


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## MasterMech (May 11, 2012)

Kroil is a very old product as well. Been my go to for years now. First I've heard the acetone/ATF thing too but you'd be surprised how simple some high-dollar miracle-in-a-can products are.

WD40 belongs at the rear of the pack.  It's a great light-lubricant and moisture displacer but a lousy penetrant.


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## jeff_t (May 11, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> Kroil is a very old product as well. Been my go to for years now. First I've heard the acetone/ATF thing too but you'd be surprised how simple some high-dollar miracle-in-a-can products are.
> 
> WD40 belongs at the rear of the pack.  It's a great light-lubricant and moisture displacer but a lousy penetrant.



Where do you buy Kroil? Any chains we might have around here? I see I could order it from their website if I need to.


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## Jags (May 11, 2012)

jeff_t said:


> Where do you buy Kroil? Any chains we might have around here? I see I could order it from their website if I need to.


 
Buy a two dollar quart of power steering fluid and a $4 small can of acetone.  Pour off half of the bottle of power steering juice and fill it back up with Acetone. Shake.  You got the best stuff money can buy.  Then if you're really thinking, you will save one of the long tip spouts from a gear lube jug or jug of hydro jack juice and put it on the bottle of power steering juice.  Now you have a delivery system.  Done.


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## davmor (May 11, 2012)

Jags said:


> Buy a two dollar quart of power steering fluid and a $4 small can of acetone. Pour off half of the bottle of power steering juice and fill it back up with Acetone. Shake. You got the best stuff money can buy. Then if you're really thinking, you will save one of the long tip spouts from a gear lube jug or jug of hydro jack juice and put it on the bottle of power steering juice. Now you have a delivery system. Done.


Thanks jags will give it a try.


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## Pallet Pete (May 11, 2012)

Wow that is surprising to me ! I use pb blaster and love the stuff but I am gonna have to try tranny fluid and acetone know. There's a 2 gallons dextron 3 in my garage right now lol. 

Pete


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## DAKSY (May 11, 2012)

I use PB Blaster mostly, & I've had a lot of luck with Marvel Mystery Oil. We use Acetone at work, so I'll give the 50/50 mix with ATF a shot. Thanks for the heads up, bg...


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## MasterMech (May 11, 2012)

jeff_t said:


> Where do you buy Kroil? Any chains we might have around here? I see I could order it from their website if I need to.


 

Every so often I find it at the local auto parts stores.  Industrial supply companies are usually a good bet too.  An excellent hardware warehouse I frequent usually has it.


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## Flatbedford (May 11, 2012)

I discovered Kroil a few years ago. Good stuff. No matter what you use, time is always your best friend.


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## Biglumber (May 12, 2012)

Seafoam Deep Creep.


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## DAKSY (May 12, 2012)

Biglumber said:


> Seafoam Deep Creep.


 
Sounds like a sci-fi horror movie title...or maybe a heavy-metal band name...Just sayin...


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## pybyr (May 14, 2012)

Kroil is great.  The acetone/ ATF idea is a good one, but if your aim is to let something soak for a long time (the best strategy for seized items) and you can't actually immerse it, the acetone will all evaporate in very short order, defeating the idea.

My favorite technique for seized fasteners (after penetrating oil+time) has become an impact wrench with the air pressure/ supply dialed way back, so that it just keeps applying a large number of gentle impacts, instead of the typical immense force.  The minute I sense some very slight motion, I apply more penetrating oil, then reverse the impact wrench back to the tighten direction, more oil, and back to the gentle un-tighten... pretty soon things are coming apart with little deformation or risk of snapped fasteners.


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## Dune (May 28, 2012)

My technique for stuck fasteners; spray, tap lightly with small hammer, re-spray. Continue. I have gotten 1 1/4" galvanised shackles which were entirely covered in rust apart using this method and a couple weeks of patience.
Look for penetrating oils which contain tri-flo (can't remember the un-contracted name of the solvent anymore.)
Looking forward to trying acetone/hydraulic oil.


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## EJL923 (Jul 3, 2012)

I switched to Kroil a few years ago, best thing i ever used.  I always keep WD-40 around for cleaning grease and adhesives.


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## charly (Jul 7, 2012)

Biglumber said:


> Seafoam Deep Creep.


I'll second that!


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## charly (Jul 7, 2012)

Had an old timer tell me they use to get broken off exhaust manifold studs loose by heating the stud and then touching a candle to it, drawing in the wax. Never tried it.


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