# probably should leave it to the pros



## chrisasst (Jan 27, 2010)

or maybe someone can give me some insight..

I have a wall mounted propane heater. I got the hook up kit which I thought I could run through the wall out to the tank hookup (which I don't have yet). However the warning label says do not conceal or run within the wall. By the looks from the lame diagram on the back of the package, I think it shows the out side line going into the wall to the inside, then I would hook up the kit. 
Is this right?  That the the line that would be on the tank runs through the wall.  I think I may need other parts / lines but I don't know. 
Hope I am explaining this right...

It is $50 an hour for our propane to do the work. ( which should only be drilling the hole in the wall and run the line) but they would probably drag it out a few hours.


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## Danno77 (Jan 27, 2010)

i'm confused. Why are you second guessing this? is it because it says to not conceal or run within a wall? running through a wall isn't running within a wall, IMO.

Where are you putting this thing? it's aweful small.


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## chrisasst (Jan 27, 2010)

Danno77 said:
			
		

> i'm confused. Why are you second guessing this? is it because it says to not conceal or run within a wall? running through a wall isn't running within a wall, IMO.
> 
> Where are you putting this thing? it's aweful small.



Yes that is why I am second guessing my self.  It is a supplement heat for have of my living room.


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## CSCPeter (Jan 28, 2010)

A flex gas gas line like what is in the picture is not to be be put through a wall or run in a wall.  Just take a piece of black pipe with a shut off on the inside as it goes through the wall and connect the flex to that. That is the safest way to do it.  Most LP companies will do free hook-ups with a sign up for LP service, and if they don't get someone else, and they will probably just run copper from the tank to the unit.


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## Danno77 (Jan 28, 2010)

CSCPeter said:
			
		

> A flex gas gas line like what is in the picture is not to be be put through a wall or run in a wall.  Just take a piece of black pipe with a shut off on the inside as it goes through the wall and connect the flex to that. That is the safest way to do it.  Most LP companies will do free hook-ups with a sign up for LP service, and if they don't get someone else, and they will probably just run copper from the tank to the unit.


ohhh, i didn't read that first post well enough. I didn't catch that he wanted to run that flex stuff through the wall. yeah, don't do that.


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## jtp10181 (Jan 28, 2010)

Yeah, run either copper or black pipe from the tank to inside, then you can connect the shut-off and run the appliance connector. That is the proper way to do it. 

I have seen people use those appliance connectors as a gas line "splice" before and all sorts of other things they are not meant for. Not a good idea.

Anyway, if you want to do it quick and easy, get some copper and some compression fittings. Only other tool you will need a tubing cutter. I would normally use flare fittings on copper, but then you would have a buy a flare tool also. Or if you don't want to have to get any extra tools gets some galvanized iron pipe and some thread sealer and run it that way.

Maybe you could convince someone to use a gas sniffer and leak check it for free when you are all done? (Or just use your nose).


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## Danno77 (Jan 28, 2010)

jtp10181 said:
			
		

> Yeah, run either copper or black pipe from the tank to inside, then you can connect the shut-off and run the appliance connector. That is the proper way to do it.
> 
> I have seen people use those appliance connectors as a gas line "splice" before and all sorts of other things they are not meant for. Not a good idea.
> 
> ...


I've never done black pipe with LP, but with NG. i imagine it's the same, the only difference would be the pressure. LP is usually at a higher pressure from what I remember. Black pipe is VERY easy to work with and it's VERY cheap and it doesn't require any special tools. if you can't find an LP company that will do it for you, then do it yourself as i bet most will still check out your work if you ask them too.


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## EatenByLimestone (Jan 28, 2010)

I used copper from the tank to just outside the cabin, under the floor.  It bends to make hooking up the tank easier during changes and doesn't have any joints that could leak in the middle of the run.  Then used black pipe into a T (condensation trap) and straight up into the heater.  Make sure all your pipe is sized correctly for the btu of the heater and the length of the line.  When I plumbed mine, I made sure I oversized it so I could easily install a larger heater or T off it to instal a second heater if I wanted to later.   Test for leaks with soapy water or a commercial product like Snoop.  

Matt


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## mayor mcheese (Jan 28, 2010)

Pretty sure you need pressure regulator. I do know my friends erequired one and he used an old one that he laying around and it was to high because the heater would flame up every now and then. I have one I have yet to install. I talked to my lp guys the said stub it out and they would hook it up and they said it should be less than an hour.


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## Danno77 (Jan 28, 2010)

mayor mcheese said:
			
		

> Pretty sure you need pressure regulator. I do know my friends erequired one and he used an old one that he laying around and it was to high because the heater would flame up every now and then. I have one I have yet to install. I talked to my lp guys the said stub it out and they would hook it up and they said it should be less than an hour.


I thought the pressure regulator for LP systems was right on the tank.


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## EatenByLimestone (Jan 28, 2010)

I put one on the tank and there is an integral one in the heater.  

Matt


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## EatenByLimestone (Jan 28, 2010)

Also it's nice to have a shut off valve at each end of the line.  Otherwise you can get a 20 foot line full of air and not propane when changing tanks.  

Matt


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## jtp10181 (Jan 29, 2010)

Danno77 said:
			
		

> mayor mcheese said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Depends on the tank he gets, some might have one right on it, others might not. 

I was thinking this when I read the first post but forgot to mention it.

On a standard LP system there is a tank regulator and then a 2nd stage regulator on the side of the house which steps it down to 11-14" WC. On a small tank system you generally only need one regulator to bring it to the 11" WC. If you look on an LP gas grill it is the round sliver thing attached to your flexible supply line.


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## rowerwet (Jan 31, 2010)

friend of mine went to HD to get copper to replace a part of his run and was told they wouldn't sell it to him unless he had a gas liscense. this was in NH


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## EatenByLimestone (Jan 31, 2010)

Time to head on over to Lowes or to the plumbing supply house.  

Matt


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