# Ashley Insert Questions and Suggestions



## Fly840 (Nov 2, 2011)

I am sure if I had the time I could dig for most of my questions, however, I do not and would appreciate any re-direction or even direct answers to my questions.  Thank you in advance.

I purchased a used Ashley stove yesterday for my fireplace.  I have attached a picture and besides the Ashley logo, there are no other identifying marks on the stove, i.e. year etc.  I consulted my chimney sweep on some issues and he will be assessing my situation soon.  I installed the stove last night and lit her up.  BTW, I live in the Atlanta area.  My chimney sweep said that most, and he said about 90%, of the chimneys that he sweeps that have inserts, do not have a direct connection from the stove to the chimney.  Another words, they open the damper, push it in and let her rip.  From my readings on here, I think that is probably not the best way to do things with these devices.  The stove has a built in thermometer, brand name Condar, Catalytic Thermometer.  It has a Normal Range of 500-1700 degrees.  When I lit her last night, I left the ash door open to provide air until things got going.  When the stove reached 800 degrees with a pretty good fire going, I closed the ash door.  I can not read the markings on the damper, but because of the characteristics of the fire, it appears that wide open is to the right.  With the damper open and the ash door closed, I immediately lost my flame and the stove began to cool.  Also, when I open the door to add wood, I get a good amount of smoke into the room.  I am fairly confident that this is a draft problem.  One other thing, my hearth is thick rock and the stove does not quite make it directly under my flue.  My firewood is well seasoned, dry red oak.  It lit and burned great with the ash door open.  I have burned many cords of wood in this fireplace with no problem, except that most of the heat went up the chimney

First, would you agree that I have a draft problem at this time?

Do you recommend a metal shop manufacturing me a rectangular connector to piping that would go from my stove into my chimney?  all the way to the top of my chimney? single or double?  The house is about 30 years old and it is a non masonry chimney.

I have probably forgotten something but look forward to your assistance.

Bill


----------



## weezer4117 (Nov 2, 2011)

Where on the stove did you read 800*? What kind of chimney do you have if it isnt masonary?


----------



## begreen (Nov 2, 2011)

The insert looks to be in good condition. I've never seen an Ashley insert before. Keep looking around for a model number. Usually it is on the UL tag on the back or side of the stove. 

By all means get a transition collar made and get the chimney fully lined. I would also consider working with a CSIA certified sweep in the future. That person would have given you better advice. If 90% of his installs are slammers, he is setting up many potentially dangerous installations. You should not need to use the ash pan door to start the fire. This can damage the grate and other parts in the stove. Once it has a good liner, it should start fine without having to do this.


----------



## Fly840 (Nov 2, 2011)

weezer4117 said:
			
		

> Where on the stove did you read 800*? What kind of chimney do you have if it isnt masonary?




There is a thermometer dead center above the door.  It got up to 800 degrees.  Chimney is about an 8 inch pipe.  It is not a brick chimney.  Pretty standard here in the south.

Bill


----------



## Fly840 (Nov 2, 2011)

BeGreen said:
			
		

> The insert looks to be in good condition. I've never seen an Ashley insert before. Keep looking around for a model number. Usually it is on the UL tag on the back or side of the stove.
> 
> By all means get a transition collar made and get the chimney fully lined. I would also consider working with a CSIA certified sweep in the future. That person would have given you better advice. If 90% of his installs are slammers, he is setting up many potentially dangerous installations. You should not need to use the ash pan door to start the fire. This can damage the grate and other parts in the stove. Once it has a good liner, it should start fine without having to do this.



I will get the transition collar ASAP.  The chimney sweep stated that of the chimneys he cleans, not installs, are what you call slammers.  Should the liner go inside and up the entire length of the chimney?  

Thanks again,

Bill


----------



## Fly840 (Nov 2, 2011)

BTW, searched the stove and no identifying plates anywhere, must have been removed from previous owner.  Did some research and found out the stove was made by US Stoves in Pittsburg, Tenn.  I have written them to see if they can identify the model number.

Bill


----------



## Fly840 (Nov 2, 2011)

OK, so not knowing the model before you buy is not too smart!  This is an Ashley K26C.  US Stove sent me the manual and the first warning was not a good one.  This stove MUST ONLY BE USED IN A MASONRY FIREPLACE, and not a prefabricated one.  Soooooo, back on CL to re-sell and look for another.  Better Due Diligence this time!!

One last thing, on further inspection, this unit does have a catalytic burner.  Maybe that would make a difference in masonry vs fabricated.

I will be back when I get the new one with less questions........hopefully.

Bill


----------

