# 1932 Findlay Oval



## tobias (Aug 8, 2013)

looking for some answers on dampeners and side air intake for best air circulation.  Its a cook stove used for heating as well.


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## begreen (Aug 9, 2013)

It's not the same stove, but I think the Heartland Oval was modeled after the 1903 Findlay. The principal and operation should be pretty much the same. Start the fire with the oven bypass damper closed so that the flue gases go directly up the chimney. Open the bypass damper once the fire is going well and the cooktop has warmed up. 

Download the manual from the Heartland here: http://www.heartlandapp.com/products/woodburning-cookstoves/oval-woodburning-cookstove.aspx


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## tobias (Aug 9, 2013)

Thanks for the quick reply.  The start up is ok I am just trying to understand the side air intake vs the front bottom and of course playing around with the flu and my exhaust temperatures.   She is a old girl but I had it restored and we are learning about each other right now and trying to get a good overnight burn.


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## begreen (Aug 9, 2013)

Can you post a few shots from different angles? Is she set up for coal or wood burning?


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## Wood Heat Stoves (Aug 10, 2013)

It's true, the Heartland Oval was not only based on the design from the original Findlay Oval from the early 1900s, but it's made from the original castings that the Mennonites discovered in a garage in Canada. Very interesting history!


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## tobias (Aug 12, 2013)

It is up at the camp right now but this is what is looks like all set up.  Really its the side draft that I am confused about and what is a better fresh air feed to use front or side.


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## begreen (Aug 13, 2013)

Question, is the side draft feeding air above the grate, at the base of the fire? If so, that is what I would use to regulated the fire. The front draft controls look like they are below the grate. That is good for coal, but not so for wood. If I have it right and you are burning wood,  I would use the front control for starting the fire only and the side control for regulating the fire once it is started.


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## tobias (Aug 16, 2013)

begreen said:


> Question, is the side draft feeding air above the grate, at the base of the fire? If so, that is what I would use to regulated the fire. The front draft controls look like they are below the grate. That is good for coal, but not so for wood. If I have it right and you are burning wood, I would use the front control for starting the fire only and the side control for regulating the fire once it is started.


 

it was set up for coal but i had it converted to wood with a new burn chamber and adjustable bottom grate.  yes the draft feed in the front is below the grate i am not sure exactly where the side draft lines up.  i am up there on the long week end so will take some better pic's and take a look.


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## Wood Heat Stoves (Aug 17, 2013)

Really pretty stove. It looks exactly like the Heartland, which used to be Elmira before the employees bought the company and changed the name.


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## tobias (Nov 25, 2013)

Min Chimney Height for proper up draft?  Stove is up and running I installed a Flue Damper.  Seems to be taking for ever to get hot and never really throws the heat, burns slow and my chimney temp is below burn zone according to magnetic temp gauge.     My research is saying chimney is too short, 12 ft approx it has 2 ninety degree angles as it goes up and out the side.  Any thoughts?


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## begreen (Nov 25, 2013)

First thought is that the stove's clearances are not being honored. I see the attempt at a shield with the metal, but then there is a vertical board right behind the stove? That should not be.I'm particularly concerned about the flue pipe. It is much to close to wood. The metal sheeting behind it is not a real heat shield. Over time the wood behind that metal could char and ignite. This needs to be corrected. 

The 90's are not helping the draft, but first check the wood supply. Is it truly well seasoned and dry? If not, try some lumber scraps.  Also, are you running the stove with the bypass open until the top gets up to temperature? The bypass must be open until the stove warms up.


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## tobias (Nov 25, 2013)

begreen said:


> First thought is that the stove's clearances are not being honored. I see the attempt at a shield with the metal, but then there is a vertical board right behind the stove? That should not be.I'm particularly concerned about the flue pipe. It is much to close to wood. The metal sheeting behind it is not a real heat shield. Over time the wood behind that metal could char and ignite. This needs to be corrected.
> 
> The 90's are not helping the draft, but first check the wood supply. Is it truly well seasoned and dry? If not, try some lumber scraps.  Also, are you running the stove with the bypass open until the top gets up to temperature? The bypass must be open until the stove warms up.



Thank you for concern, no that just a piece of wood that got put back there during packing up, there are two layers of steel with an inch and half between them. these old stoves are never going to pass todays code.   I don't have a humidity check for  the wood but its split and dry for over a year.  i have tried all combinations including all open and there just doesn't seem to be enough heat it too hours to get up to 300 at the 1 foot section of single wall the rest is all double and insulated.  also had some back puff when i close it all down.


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## begreen (Nov 25, 2013)

Were the stove innards thoroughly cleaned before firing up? Mice like to nest in old stoves. If all is set up well, stick another 3 feet of pipe on the stove and see how it runs then.


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## tobias (Nov 25, 2013)

Will take a look next time I am up see if those mice have made a nice home in there i close it all down but they do find a way into the strangest places.  Yeah i have several sections of stainless insulated pipe still so will slap one on and see how it goes.  Seems most info recommend min 15 feet so .....


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## begreen (Nov 25, 2013)

My old cook stove only had about 10 ft of pipe and it burned ok. Not perfect, but ok.


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