# Firewood up, oil down, where is the line?



## clr8ter (Jan 3, 2015)

So, I'm in the market for around 8 more cords of GREEN wood. I have been quoted around $230 a cord, split and delivered. Oil is coming down. So, I'm conflicted on what to do. I burn 4 +- cords a year, so that's right around a 1000 bucks for a year's supply of firewood. This wood wouldn't be burned until '16-'17. 

Any opinions on this? And, does anyone have an idea at what price does it cost the same to heat with oil VS wood? I'd also have to take into account that the wood costs a fair amount in labor, seeing as how I don't particularly enjoy hauling wood to the woodshed. I will do it to save money, other than that, I'd have a little for the weekends, and special occasions.


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## jatoxico (Jan 3, 2015)

Knee jerk is oil is cheap now so fill up on that now. Wood will either be the same or less in the spring/summer so you're not missing anything if you don't buy that right now.


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## CenterTree (Jan 3, 2015)

clr8ter said:


> Any opinions on this? And, does* anyone have an idea at what price does it cost the same to heat with oil VS wood?* I'd also have to take into account that the wood costs a fair amount in labor, seeing as how I don't particularly enjoy hauling wood to the woodshed. I will do it to save money, other than that, I'd have a little for the weekends, and special occasions.



Try this...http://www.buildinggreen.com/calc/fuel_cost.cfm


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## Rossco (Jan 3, 2015)

Yeah well technically the price of wood should be down as the cost to Cut, haul, split & Haul again should be lower. As long as the firewood dealer uses Gas / diesel powered processing equipment.

For me at this moment, I could get 4 load for the price of three.


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## clr8ter (Jan 3, 2015)

> Try this...http://www.buildinggreen.com/calc/fuel_cost.cfm



Cool calculator, thanks. A quick estimate sows firewood being cheaper, depend on how much. I will have to look into some prices for oil and efficiencies to make a better determination. One wild card would be the efficiencies of the distribution system, on both fuels. We have a wood stove in a room, no dist. system. NO idea how efficient that is...


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## Poindexter (Jan 3, 2015)

Yup, efficiency and local prices make all the difference.  

For me a 20MBTU cord of seasoned fire wood replaces $511.xx in fuel oil, BTU for BTU.  Considering I can get green logs in the front yard at $162. per cord I see my self "saving" about $349 every time I cut split season and burn one cord of wood, and I burnt nine cords last year... I'll keep processing wood.

$230/ cord already split and delivered could be a great deal.  Is the seller reputable or someone you have bought from before?

Pssst.  I bought my first gallon of gas while Ford was in the White House for .48 per gallon.  I remember the first time I paid a buck a gallon.  I remember the first time I paid two bucks a gallon.  I lost three, but I do remember the first time I paid four bucks a gallon.  Certainly buy oil while it's low if you can, but it will go back up, probably soon.


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## clr8ter (Jan 3, 2015)

> For me a 20MBTU cord of seasoned fire wood replaces $511.xx in fuel oil, BTU for BTU. Considering I can get green logs in the front yard at $162. per cord I see my self "saving" about $349 every time I cut split season and burn one cord of wood, and I burnt nine cords last year... I'll keep processing wood.



Shouldn't that be stated as "a 20MBTU cord of wood replaces XXX GALLONS of fuel oil?" Since the price of oil fluctuates all the time?



> $230/ cord already split and delivered could be a great deal. Is the seller reputable or someone you have bought from before?



Agreed, I don't know, and no. However, I figure when I buy the wood, it's green, I'd prefer NOT to have a large amount of oak in it, and I plan to go see it before it's even loaded on the seller's truck. So, the only variable left to watch for is short cords.


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## claydogg84 (Jan 3, 2015)

Personally, if I had to buy firewood, I would just stick with oil/gas/propane.


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## mass_burner (Jan 3, 2015)

I opted for a pallet of Niels. I have 2.5 cords seasoning, half will be ready next year. I will mix in the 1/2 cord I dry I have left with the Niels this year and will probably have 1/2 left for next year.


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## Badfish740 (Jan 4, 2015)

claydogg84 said:


> Personally, if I had to buy firewood, I would just stick with oil/gas/propane.



To each their own, but I'm of the same mindset.  I installed a wood furnace in order to take advantage of what I usually see laying around for free.  FWIW, with my parameters, if I were paying the OP's $230 per cord, my cost per million BTU would be almost identical to heating with oil at the current price (I just got 60 gallons @ $2.85/gallon).  However, I figure I'm paying about $50 a cord when I count my time, labor, fuel, maintenance, etc...  There was a good calculator posted on here that allowed you to estimate the cost of "free wood" but I'll be darned if I can find it now.  At that rate oil would have to drop below a buck a gallon before it made sense.


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## clr8ter (Jan 4, 2015)

I hear you guys about the free wood. But free isn't always free. Between my labor, (A LOT), and the gas to transport, and the wear and tear on the body, etc., paying for split green seems a good way to go. The 1st 20 or so cords we burned were free, and that was good. When I have an opportunity to pick up some easy free wood, I will. But I just don't think I can continue with the free wood indefinitely, ya know?


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## Sconnie Burner (Jan 4, 2015)

How warm do you like your home? Or should I say how warm does the Boss like the home? Wood can allow you to keep a house a lot warmer than a furnace in my opinion. I have a NG furnace (cheapest fuel available at the moment) and will run the stove any day, its a completely different feel.

I love to be in the woods cutting though and love to process the wood and admire the stacks, and watch the fire. So all my wood is free. Its all in how passionate you are about the whole process. I do have to say that in get the whole family involved so its our bonding time as well! Learning how to work together has its challenges but it has helped us and the kids in getting along better.

And if the electricity ever goes out we will still be warm!


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## Badfish740 (Jan 4, 2015)

clr8ter said:


> I hear you guys about the free wood. But free isn't always free. Between my labor, (A LOT), and the gas to transport, and the wear and tear on the body, etc., paying for split green seems a good way to go. The 1st 20 or so cords we burned were free, and that was good. When I have an opportunity to pick up some easy free wood, I will. But I just don't think I can continue with the free wood indefinitely, ya know?



As I said, you can estimate the cost of "free" wood.  Wear and tear on the body can be hard to quantify, but on the flip side, if one is a stickler about safe working practices (PPE, proper lifting, etc...) the effects can be minimized.  Around here (Northwest NJ) at least, between Craigslist, power company trimming, storm blowdowns, state park cutting permits ($20 per cord), and just plain networking ("Hey I'm having a tree taken down-you want it?") there's always free or low cost wood available.  Of course, it depends on how much you're burning also.  I burn about 3-4 cords a year.  If I burned double that I couldn't possibly keep up supply with free wood.


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## tinman1 (Jan 4, 2015)

claydogg84 said:


> Personally, if I had to buy firewood, I would just stick with oil/gas/propane.


Its not only about the money on this.  I find this wood thing fun & good excersize


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## mass_burner (Jan 4, 2015)

tinman1 said:


> Its not only about the money on this.  I find this wood thing fun & good excersize


A lot of folks mention good exercise, is  it? Especially for an...er...aging person. A lot of bending over, repetitive motion, heavy unbalanced lifting. Swimming for a prolonged time is good exercise, processing wood, uh, probably not so much.


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## jatoxico (Jan 4, 2015)

Cord wood around here can be had for $150/cord but more common around $200. I haven't paid for it yet but for the amount of work it takes to obtain and split a cord it's well worth it and pretty sure I'll get more heat from a cord of wood burned over the same time period than I would if I spent the money on oil.

Right now, not counting this years wood I'm sitting on 5+ cords CSS and 2 in the round but if my scrounging ever comes up short because I couldn't find it or because didn't feel like it I would have no qualms buying wood. I would assume it's going to be green and stack it up for a couple years.


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## claydogg84 (Jan 4, 2015)

tinman1 said:


> Its not only about the money on this.  I find this wood thing fun & good excersize



As you grow older, you will find it is not so good for your body.


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## tinman1 (Jan 4, 2015)

Not to replace the gym , but in comparing to just sitting on the couch ? Much better to get out & moving the body around.  You do what you can


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## Bigg_Redd (Jan 4, 2015)

tinman1 said:


> Its not only about the money on this.  I find this wood thing fun & good excersize



I love cutting/bucking/splitting wood (still don't love stacking) and I do it a lot - 10+ cord per year.  But I love it _because_ it's free.  If I had to pay for the privilege of doing all that work I think my enjoyment would quickly vanish.


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## D8Chumley (Jan 4, 2015)

tinman1 said:


> Not to replace the gym , but in comparing to just sitting on the couch ? Much better to get out & moving the body around.  You do what you can


This! I use this for my exercise, sitting in a dozer all day does nothing for my physique  Plus I don't want to buy any more oil from those already rich bastiches in the East than I have to. Besides, it's still fun for me


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## Badfish740 (Jan 4, 2015)

mass_burner said:


> A lot of folks mention good exercise, is  it? Especially for an...er...aging person. A lot of bending over, repetitive motion, heavy unbalanced lifting. Swimming for a prolonged time is good exercise, processing wood, uh, probably not so much.



Eh...I don't know-I think it all depends on how you do it.  As my old wrestling coach used to say, you want to work out properly in order to develop callouses, not blisters.


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## Rossco (Jan 4, 2015)

Imagine paying $50 a month Gym Membership when you can simply run a saw and swing an axe. Not to mention all that power walking and 'World strongest man' training. 

Seriously tho firewood ain't free unless its dropped off at ya house split.


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## mass_burner (Jan 4, 2015)

Badfish740 said:


> Eh...I don't know-I think it all depends on how you do it.  As my old wrestling coach used to say, you want to work out properly in order to develop callouses, not blisters.


Yea , sounds good, but in reality how often can you bend at the knees to pick up a split, before it's easier to bend over? Its like basketball, look how decrepit old players are. Swimming, boat rowing and yoga, that's the ticket.


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## ihookem (Jan 4, 2015)

_It is to the point wood doesn't pay anymore. I can get  little side jobs 5 or 6 Saturdays and have my heat payed for for the year. I have a 2200 SQ. ft. ranch with 9' ceilings. it is so efficient that the 10 k I have in the EKO 25 is not worth it. I have to say though, I have staple up pex in my basement under half the house. It is so much more comfortable than junk forced air feel. ALway has a breeze or drafty feel . I need to keep the furnace 3-4 degrees warmer to get the same comfort.  After this year I have the stove is payed for for the most part. I will still burn wood  but might not start till Nov. 1 and quit April 1. My biggest problem is a Craftsman 27 ton splitter is so slow it is irritating. _


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## Poindexter (Jan 4, 2015)

clr8ter said:


> Shouldn't that be stated as "a 20MBTU cord of wood replaces XXX GALLONS of fuel oil?" Since the price of oil fluctuates all the time?



I think Alaskans pay more for fuel oil than likely anyone in the US.  20MBTU, 1 cord, $511. in #2 fuel was at the May 2014 price of $3.42/ gallon.  When I filled in October I paid $3.84 gallon...  But even I cringe when I read about heating fuel prices in the UK.





clr8ter said:


> Agreed, I don't know, and no. However, I figure when I buy the wood, it's green, I'd prefer NOT to have a large amount of oak in it, and I plan to go see it before it's even loaded on the seller's truck. So, the only variable left to watch for is short cords.



You sir are not a n00b.  Ass/u/me-ing full cords, what you are willing to pay for a cord of wood depends on how much you are paying for your second line heating source and how hard you are willing to work.  If you are paying maybe $2.00 or so for #2 fuel oil, $250/ honest cord for green splits is probably not a good deal...but I'll bet my entire 401k that oil will be going back up soon, probably higher than it has ever been before, again.


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## Seanm (Jan 4, 2015)

I have natural gas for heat and still go out and get my firewood but Im also surrounded by forests and have somewhat cheap heating fuel. We have what I would call a modest amount of wood burners here with most of them doing it recreationaly. Its funny, I was driving through town noticing who was burning today (it was -16 c at the time) and thought, I bet more homes here would heat with wood if natural gas wasn't the price it is or we had to use heating oil. This wood business is hard on the body, can be dangerous, puts dents in my truck (honestly its the stumps fault) and I wouldn't have it any other way. If I was to break it down in to the cost of my labour and all the tools, the numbers wouldn't make sense. I enjoy myself most of the time and wood heat is sooooo much better than natural gas heat so its worth it for me.


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## clr8ter (Jan 4, 2015)

> How warm do you like your home? Or should I say how warm does the Boss like the home? Wood can allow you to keep a house a lot warmer than a furnace in my opinion. I have a NG furnace (cheapest fuel available at the moment) and will run the stove any day, its a completely different feel.
> 
> And if the electricity ever goes out we will still be warm!



Oddly enough, the Boss likes it cooler than me. My ideal would be about 70 degrees. More normally, the stove room is 70-85, and the rest of the house is 60-65. And that's not bad, since we use less than 50 gal of oil a season.  And, yeah, having heat when the power goes out is an awesome thing!


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## ihookem (Jan 4, 2015)

Poindexter, ouch 3.43 gal. I can get it now for about 2.00 gal. That is downright cheap. Has anyone ever put old cooking oil in with their fuel oil? Seems to make sense to me but would never do it unlsess someone on the internet said it works.


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## claydogg84 (Jan 4, 2015)

ihookem said:


> Seems to make sense to me but would never do it unlsess someone on the internet said it works.



Well, I haven't laughed like that in a while. Thank you sir.


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## firefighterjake (Jan 4, 2015)

From a purely financial standpoint . . . 

Right now the price of oil is down . . . but since most of the wood I have on hand and continue to scrounge is relatively low cost (i.e. fuel for the truck, saw, splitter) and I have the time continuing to heat mostly with wood is the right answer for me.

For other folks who might be paying more or do not have as much time to process wood . . . stocking up on oil might be the right answer financially, getting a load of cheaper, unseasoned wood delivered or even getting tree length wood might be the right answer.

I don't think there is any answer that is right for everyone . . . it's what works for you and your own situation.


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## Tom Wallace (Jan 5, 2015)

Is buying the wood in rounds and splitting it yourself an option? Can probably save hundreds of dollars that way. In my area, you can find a cord of rounds for around $75-125 usually. Or if you've got a truck, can maybe find someone giving away free rounds on Craigslist.


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## area_man (Jan 5, 2015)

Oil is going to be cheap for a while.  Hopefully that pushes down the price of propane and nat gas.  If I was a gambler, I would watch propane and buy one of those gigantic tanks for the home and fill 'er up if the price gets in the right range.  I plan on getting natural gas installed as well.  Right now my furnace is a heat pump with an electric furnace backup, but if I do my part with the wood stove the electric heat never comes on.  I'm happy with the heat pump for the milder parts of the season for now.


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## clr8ter (Jan 5, 2015)

> Has anyone ever put old cooking oil in with their fuel oil? Seems to make sense to me but would never do it unlsess someone on the internet said it works.



I've tried it, and it works. (Snicker) Let me know how that works out for ya. Seriously, you can't really think that it's that easy, can you? Adding it into the #2 oil MAY work for a while, but I bet that something would eventually go wrong. You can burn it straight, but you'd need to pre-heat it, and setup a burner that uses compressed air to atomize it well enough. If you turn it into genuine bio diesel, you can use it straight, no mods, as long as your burner uses synthetic rubber seals and gaskets.


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## clr8ter (Jan 5, 2015)

> I would watch propane and buy one of those gigantic tanks for the home and fill 'er up if the price gets in the right range.



Have you ever inquired about the price for those large tanks? Huge $$$. Most people don't own them for that reason, and the fact that if something goes wrong with it, they' have to pay to fix it. Most of those tanks are rented, so the fuel company is responsible for it, and around here at least, they're a little reluctant to send you one unless thou can demonstrate a need for that amount. If you COULD get them to send one, they'd charge you a lot of money a month to rent it.


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## tinman1 (Jan 5, 2015)

ihookem said:


> Poindexter, ouch 3.43 gal. I can get it now for about 2.00 gal. That is downright cheap. Has anyone ever put old cooking oil in with their fuel oil? Seems to make sense to me but would never do it unlsess someone on the internet said it works.


Ibelieve that's $3.43 per Gallon with a service contract?


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## JP11 (Jan 5, 2015)

I set up my boiler to run straight B100.. Biodiesel I made from cooking oil.  Essentially, the chemical change takes the 'thick' out of the used cooking oil.

If you wanted to just 'run some'  You could likely get away with put to about 10 percent with no real ill effects.  Same with used motor oil.  

It would work best if you pump was looped back to the tank.. so it kept stirring.  that's how mine was setup.  Even with a line heater, a clean cut timer.. I'd still have to clean the burner after about 600 gallons or so.  That was using very refined, filtered B100.

JP


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## johnpma (Jan 5, 2015)

truck load of logs ends up being about $100/cord........something to think about


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## clr8ter (Jan 5, 2015)

From everything I've read, straight bio diesel will not congeal any worse that #2, and once some is run through the system, it'll be fine. At first, they say cleaning may be necessary, because the bio diesel will eat away all the built-up "gunk" in the system, and clog filters. After that, no issue.

I've also read that Bio is a direct 1 for 1 replacement for dino diesel in motors.


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## Poindexter (Jan 5, 2015)

tinman1 said:


> Ibelieve that's $3.43 per Gallon with a service contract?




Nope, "autofill" at market price.  They keep track of how cold it is every day, estimate my fuel usage and send a truck to refill my tank when I ought to be getting down kinda low.  No contract, no nothing, I could change suppliers today with nothing more than a phone call.

My October 2014 fill was $3.84/ gallon, that 3.43 number I keep seeing was last winter's price.


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## Badfish740 (Jan 5, 2015)

Poindexter said:


> Nope, "autofill" at market price.  They keep track of how cold it is every day, estimate my fuel usage and send a truck to refill my tank when I ought to be getting down kinda low.  No contract, no nothing, I could change suppliers today with nothing more than a phone call.



I have the same deal.  Last week I got 60 gallons at $2.35.  I haven't had a fill of more than 100 gallons in over six years.  My personal best was during an extremely cold winter when I was home a lot and had a surplus of firewood.  Only 25 gallons!  The delivery guy was concerned and told his boss when he got back-he thought that I may have had a clog in the line that caused the whistle to go off prematurely.  They called me up to make sure the tank was actually full and not poised to run dry at 2:00 a.m. in single digit temperatures.  I just told them I was burning a lot of wood to which they said "sounds good!"  It's a small family owned company, and it shows.


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## jzampieron (Jan 5, 2015)

Personally: I find this spreadsheet from the EIA to be very helpful.
http://www.eia.gov/tools/faqs/heatcalc.xls

That and the State of NH publishes average heating fuel costs here (weekly):
http://www.nh.gov/oep/energy/energy-nh/fuel-prices/index.htm


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## tinman1 (Jan 5, 2015)

Poindexter said:


> Nope, "autofill" at market price.  They keep track of how cold it is every day, estimate my fuel usage and send a truck to refill my tank when I ought to be getting down kinda low.  No contract, no nothing, I could change suppliers today with nothing more than a phone call.
> 
> My October 2014 fill was $3.84/ gallon, that 3.43 number I keep seeing was last winter's price.


Ouch
Last year my capping was $3.79 & they covered my repairs here. Auto fill also.  I did pay market value price which was lower than that. Now I'm at $3.25.capping  But burning wood this season part time & on weekends. Hoping that will keep my oil consumption down.


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## Enzo's Dad (Jan 5, 2015)

I bought a stove to burn all the trees I have on my property. The wood is free because I would of had to pay to get it off my property.


But with oil dropping I am using the two systems in concert with each other...oil heating second floor less heat from stove moving to second floor...it's 76 on my first floor..loving it


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## mass_burner (Jan 6, 2015)

Oil below $50 yesterday.


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## billb3 (Jan 6, 2015)

Unless you are paying $300 a cord for firewood, HHO prices still have a way to drop a bit more even if you have a newer 90% oil burner.
Plug in your own numbers and hit recalculate:
http://nepacrossroads.com/fuel-comparison-calculator.php

If you consider those cords of wood in your yard an investment it makes more sense to cash out that investment when the price of a bbl of west texas crude goes back up again. If you can afford to.


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## Badfish740 (Jan 6, 2015)

billb3 said:


> Unless you are paying $300 a cord for firewood, HHO prices still have a way to drop a bit more even if you have a newer 90% oil burner.  Plug in your own numbers and hit recalculate:  http://nepacrossroads.com/fuel-comparison-calculator.php



That's the best calculator I've seen posted in a long time.  At my current oil price/efficiency ($2.65/gallon - 83%), $300 a cord would be the break even point for me.  I figure I'm paying about $50 a cord.


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## weatherguy (Jan 6, 2015)

Badfish740 said:


> That's the best calculator I've seen posted in a long time.  At my current oil price/efficiency ($2.65/gallon - 83%), $300 a cord would be the break even point for me.  I figure I'm paying about $50 a cord.


That is a good one, even at $250 cord you paying half to heat your home compared to oil and the heat is a much nicer, warmer heat. Every year someone says if they had to pay for wood they would burn oil/propane etc.. but you almost always come out way ahead burning wood even if you have to pay a decent amount for a cord of wood. I save 3 tanks of oil per year on average, so that's 750 X current oil price = saving $$$$, most of my wood is free but even paying $250 cord I'd come out way ahead and wood around here is $160-180 cord.


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## maple1 (Jan 6, 2015)

I don't know anybody with the ability to heat with either oil or wood, that keeps their house as warm with oil as they do with wood.


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## Jon_E (Jan 6, 2015)

I like burning wood.  I like the cutting, bucking and splitting, not so much the stacking or moving parts.  I'd probably hate it after a while if I had to do it for a living, but it hasn't lost its appeal yet.

I burn 12+ cords a year.  Have done so for 7 years.  I have not yet paid a dime for a stick of firewood, it has all been from scrounging or my own property.  I would consider supplementing my firewood supply with a log-truck load of tree-length sticks, if I ever got to the point where I just couldn't find or make the time to go cut wood.  Around here, 10 cords of mixed hardwood delivered to my yard is about $800.  I can easily find another couple of cords of junk wood (pine, poplar, etc.) or random dead stuff to supplement that load - but I'm not there yet.  Maybe when I get older and weaker and just tire of it.  I'm going to put in a propane backup system in my basement (right now I have a dual-fuel wood boiler) so that I can at least cut back on mid-summer burning and "take a vacation" from the OWB.


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## JP11 (Jan 6, 2015)

clr8ter said:


> From everything I've read, straight bio diesel will not congeal any worse that #2, and once some is run through the system, it'll be fine. At first, they say cleaning may be necessary, because the bio diesel will eat away all the built-up "gunk" in the system, and clog filters. After that, no issue.
> 
> I've also read that Bio is a direct 1 for 1 replacement for dino diesel in motors.



What you've read is wrong.  Straight bio will congeal anywhere from 26 to 50 degrees F.  Depends on what oil it's made from.   Corn oil being the best for cold temps, and soy bean oil the worst.  

It won't clog filters, but it WILL clog your burner.  It's thin, and it will dribble out the end of the nozzle and make the boiler dirty.  I had better luck using the 'clean cut' solenoid. Even then it would never run as clean as straight #2.  There's less Btus per gallon, and I had mine dialed in pretty well, but on a cold night like tonight, it would run 24/7.
If you just throw b100 in an old tank.. you're right.. it's one hell of a solvent and will clean tanks, and plug the filters.  It also eats natural rubber, so the oil pump on your burner would last about a year.  I replaced mine with a B100 compatible pump.  Viton seals instead of rubber.

Again.. it is a 1/1 replacement in motors.... FOR SOME.  Newer diesels with high pressure pumps, the varying viscosity is ASKING for a injector pump failure.  B100 in a car with a trap oxidizer for emissions.. you're gonna throw a check engine light when it tries to clean the trap out.  Not enough heat in the fuel.

Now.. in my old Mercedes.. Yeah, it loves it. I rank 100k on in with the 1985.. And since I found a 1991 with 27k on it.. i'll be running that one on it for a long time.

JP


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## Poindexter (Jan 6, 2015)

maple1 said:


> I don't know anybody with the ability to heat with either oil or wood, that keeps their house as warm with oil as they do with wood.



Yup.  

My oil set point is +62dF.  Before the stove I was burning 2,000 gallons of #2 annually.  I do make domestic hot water in the #2 furnace and had three long haired women in the house at the time.

My target temp for the main living areas with wood is +80 to +85dF, had two long haired women home last year and over the twelve months used about 1300 gallons of #2 instead of 2000.

I have both daughters out this season, just the wife at home this time around.  Looking good.


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## firefighterjake (Jan 7, 2015)

maple1 said:


> I don't know anybody with the ability to heat with either oil or wood, that keeps their house as warm with oil as they do with wood.



Well . . . for me . . . yes . . . kinda sorta.

I wasn't stingy with the thermostats in the home and typically set them around 70 or so . . . and honestly with zoned hot water baseboard the house as a whole felt warmer since every room was roughly around the same temp.

That said . . . the room with the woodstove is most definitely warmer than it was before . . . and most of the rest of the house is around the same temp with a few exceptions. I do notice the difference in temps when going from one part of the house to another, but for me personally the cost of heating with wood vs. oil is a no brainer . . . it's still much cheaper for me to go with wood.


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## mass_burner (Jan 7, 2015)

UHN broke 20 down to 19.83 before rebounding. Nibbled a little...waiting for another step down before adding more.


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