# Splitting big rounds with Noodle grooves



## Kenster (Apr 29, 2011)

As documented in two other threads, I recently retrieved a large Post Oak that had fallen in a neighbors front yard.  Once I got it all down I had ten 20 inch rounds that had to be split so I could carry them up a little hill to my truck.  Several of these were about 27 inches in diameter and even the smallest was over 20 inches.  

So, I decided to try something new that I had read about on this forum.   I took my MS390 and cut grooves into the top of the rounds.   On the larger rounds I pre-cut into quarters then eighths.   I noodled the groves to about 3/4 inch deep.

Then I took my two splitting wedges and a hand sledge and pounded the wedges into the groves.  I was amazed that the first one I tried split in half with only four or five half hearted taps.  Not all of the rounds split so easily because of twists or knots.
For most of the rounds,  I knocked the wedges into the grooves then used my ten pound sledge to drive the wedges on in.  
Most of the rounds split right along the grooves but not all did.  Some splits started along the groove then ended up following the  natural grain of the wood. (Like the one in the photo below.)   Regardless, I found it much easier to get the first splits done after noodling grooves, then using wedge and sledge.   Subsequent splits were done mostly with my Fiskars SS.

















Below:  The splits on the tail gate came from one round.


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## wkpoor (Apr 29, 2011)

2 ways I handle large rounds. First get a 80cc plus chainsaw that can really cut with a 21-24" bar. I can usually noodle up large rounds way faster than swinging something heavy. Second, if you have to swing, make wedges out of oak. Big long ones that are wide at the top. They work far better than the steel jobies.


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## Kenster (Apr 29, 2011)

wkpoor said:
			
		

> Second, if you have to swing, make wedges out of oak. Big long ones that are wide at the top. They work far better than the steel jobies.



I've not heard of this.  Are you saying that you use splitting wedges made out of wood?  Doesn't seem like they would hold up past the first couple of whacks.  How can they work better than steel. I could see using them for felling wedges, though.  

Not disputing what you are saying, just trying to understand...


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## lazeedan (Apr 30, 2011)

I remember this game. Yes it works well. But I am so glad I have a splitter now! I am a lot more efficent with a splitter.


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## certified106 (Apr 30, 2011)

lazeedan said:
			
		

> I remember this game. Yes it works well. But I am so glad I have a splitter now! I am a lot more efficent with a splitter.


+1 on that.....I will add though that I actually had to split a couple of rounds with a wedge before I could wrestle themto the splitter. I probably could have wrestled it but I would have paid the price the next day, darn back :shut: .


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## Kenster (Apr 30, 2011)

certified106 said:
			
		

> lazeedan said:
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I would think there are times when you don't haul your splitters into the woods with you.  I find it hard to carry a 200 pound round out of the woods, then having to lift it up onto the tailgate of my pickup truck.  So... that requires splitting by hand in the field.


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## certified106 (Apr 30, 2011)

Kenster said:
			
		

> certified106 said:
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In the last eight years I haven't split anything in the woods by hand. I do one of three things, skid the logs out to my splitting are to process them, buck the rounds up and use the loader to get them out of the woods,  or skid the log up to a flat spot in the woods and then take the splitter into the woods. My back just can't handle the constant swinging anymore thanks to a motorcycle wreck. I should add that almost all ofmy wood comes off of my property so the tractor is always an option for me.


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## Woody Stover (Apr 30, 2011)

Kenster, that hatchet certainly looks old-school...  :coolsmile:


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## wkpoor (Apr 30, 2011)

Kenster said:
			
		

> wkpoor said:
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My 78 yr old neighbor taught me the wooden wedge trick. I'll take some pics this weekend. They , believe it or not, last very long. In fact I still have all my originals from several yrs ago. Sounds amazing but you get more opening power from the long wooden ones then the small steel ones.
Other option is to get a real chainsaw and noodle them apart.


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## okotoks guy (Apr 30, 2011)

Just thought I would compliment Kenster on some very fine photography.

Nice Pics. Thanks for sharing.


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## mesuno (Apr 30, 2011)

We used wooden wedges recently when we split a 6ft chestnut log down its length - worked like a charm. We used the splitting axe on one end to start the split then kept on driving wooden wedges in to work the split down the whole length.

Here is a link to and album from when we went out there in february. The splits became the two benches you can see :D

I promise the next benches will be a little tidier and more stable!

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/fbx/?set=a.10150091812668042.274412.666263041&l=2e59cb3db6


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## Wood Duck (Apr 30, 2011)

I just keep hitting the rounds with a maul or the small Fiskars until it splits. I split some 25+ inch White Oak just last weekend using only the 2.5 pound Fiskars. Very few rounds take more than ten hits to split the first split, and far fewer to split the resulting pieces. A few extra swings with the axe seems a lot quicker than firing up the saw or placing wedges. I already have the Fiskars in my hand so I keep on swinging. It is low-tech but satisfying.


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## Backwoods Savage (Apr 30, 2011)

Kenster, I'm glad you got those split and hauled out. Lots of work there.


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## wkpoor (Apr 30, 2011)

Wood Duck said:
			
		

> I just keep hitting the rounds with a maul or the small Fiskars until it splits. I split some 25+ inch White Oak just last weekend using only the 2.5 pound Fiskars. Very few rounds take more than ten hits to split the first split, and far fewer to split the resulting pieces. A few extra swings with the axe seems a lot quicker than firing up the saw or placing wedges. I already have the Fiskars in my hand so I keep on swinging. It is low-tech but satisfying.


I can make 9 pieces out of a 30" round with the right chainsaw sooner than a maul can have it in 4 pieces. Good sharp square ground chain being turned by a woods ported big cc saw. Trick is to make the quartering cuts before you make the length cut. Start by making 2 cuts for 3rds, then after its bucked down to length roll 90 degrees and make 2 more. 9 easy quick pieces, repeat to end of log.


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## Adabiviak (Apr 30, 2011)

Wood Duck said:
			
		

> I just keep hitting the rounds with a maul or the small Fiskars until it splits. I split some 25+ inch White Oak just last weekend using only the 2.5 pound Fiskars. Very few rounds take more than ten hits to split the first split, and far fewer to split the resulting pieces. A few extra swings with the axe seems a lot quicker than firing up the saw or placing wedges. I already have the Fiskars in my hand so I keep on swinging. It is low-tech but satisfying.



+1

Unless there's a knot larger than my fist, I'll go at it with the maul. If it doesn't split after ten whacks, it goes in the knot pile for the splitter (which I rent once I've filtered all the wood for easy splits). I may find that I don't enjoy hammering away at wood as I get older, in which case more of this will be handled by the splitter. 

Wooden wedges: I like the idea of being able to 'custom' make the angle on one's wedges (the 2D metal ones often don't produce enough gap at the end for me. Haven't tried a wood grenade though). The wooden wedge seems like it would give more laterally than a metal one, which could be the difference between a round in pieces or the wedge becoming a permanent part of the round, especially if you're splitting oak with an oak wedge. Can you share a photo of your wooden wedge?


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## wkpoor (Apr 30, 2011)

I get a pick up later this weekend. What makes the wooden wedges work is there ability to pry outward. If they bottom out then yes they are no good, but if they are working as intended they give more leverage to open up a large round.


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## Kenster (Apr 30, 2011)

Woody Stover said:
			
		

> Kenster, that hatchet certainly looks old-school...  :coolsmile:



Actually, it's a hand maul.  Weighs about five pounds.  Does a nice job of splitting small pieces but I find the sledge side of the head very useful, too.


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## Kenster (Apr 30, 2011)

okotoks guy said:
			
		

> Just thought I would compliment Kenster on some very fine photography.
> 
> Nice Pics. Thanks for sharing.



Thanks, Okotuks!   They were taken with my iPhone4.   It really does a great job.


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## BrotherBart (May 1, 2011)

A pair of Harbor Freight ramps for $29 on sale were the best investment I ever made. I roll them big suckers up the ramps into the trailer and split'em back at the house. My back thanks me for it because I used to macho them up into the trailer and have paid for it ever since.


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## Thistle (May 1, 2011)

BrotherBart said:
			
		

> A pair of Harbor Freight ramps for $29 on sale were the best investment I ever made. I roll them big suckers up the ramps into the trailer and split'em back at the house. My back thanks me for it because I used to macho them up into the trailer and have paid for it ever since.



Cheaper than a trip to the doctor or chiropractor thats for sure.No ramps here (they sound like a great idea though) I keep a pair of stout 2 x 12 about 6-7ft long handy for similar uses.


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