# Anyone try one of these?



## bluedogz (Feb 2, 2014)

http://www.mnn.com/family/protection-safety/stories/weve-been-splitting-wood-all-wrong


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## bluedogz (Feb 2, 2014)

Disregard... found the English name for this thing, and the price!!


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## TreePointer (Feb 2, 2014)

Nope, never tried the Leveraxe.  There was a test model floating around AS a few years back and a loooong discussion to go with it. 

If most of your wood is shorter rounds of birch (preferably frozen), then it might suit you.  Otherwise, it's too specialized for my eastern hardwoods and I've categorized it as expensive gimmickry.


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## Thistle (Feb 2, 2014)

Brother sent me the link via nbcnews on facebook a few days ago.Asked me what I thought of it.Told him "I thought it was no more than a yuppie axe,an overpriced fancy gimmick."

Noticed on the company video that it looks like straight grained pine or birch that is being split.Then brother said "Who burns PINE?"  He mentioned "how he'd burn pine in the firepit or when camping,but NOT in up the chimney in his open fireplace...."

So...... I had to educate him on the 'pine is dangerous & no good for indoor burning etc myth...." Explained that most everyone living on the pacific coast/western US,northern parts of US like Maine etc & northern Europe have little or no hardwoods,have been using softwoods for fuel & building material for thousands of years etc etc...."  Think I got through,not sure though.... 

Looks easy on medium sized straight grained knot free softwoods such as white pine or spruce.Would be interesting to see how it behaves in twisted,gnarly knotty White Oak,Mulberry,Honey Locust or Elm/Apple stumps....That stuff just laughs at my X27,have to use the sledge/twisted wedge or break out the big saw for that brutal stuff........"

As of last Wednesday that Vipukirves ax was $277.08 with shipping to US addresses.....NO WAY!


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## Mike T (Feb 2, 2014)

I saw it pointed out somewhere that the torque at the end would be very painful after a short while. Notice what the axe does when it stops and see how it twists your wrists.


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## CenterTree (Feb 2, 2014)

HOLY CRAP...and I thought my Tennis Elbow was bad NOW.  


Also, it looks like ya have to move in a clock-wise circle only.  

$277 is a payment towards a hydraulic splitter no?


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## bluedogz (Feb 2, 2014)

All I can say is I only have one badly-damaged arm, and my Fiskars does me quite nicely.  I don't know if I could take the torquing.


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## Thistle (Feb 2, 2014)

For $277 I can buy either 1 to 3  more medium sized vintage Mac's, a sizeable chunk towards one of the rarer very large gear-drive monsters or a very good pair of calk boots with steel toes & chainsaw resistant sidewalls.....


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## FINLAND (Feb 20, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> Nope, never tried the Leveraxe.  There was a test model floating around AS a few years back and a loooong discussion to go with it.
> 
> If most of your wood is shorter rounds of birch (preferably frozen), then it might suit you.  Otherwise, it's too specialized for my eastern hardwoods and I've categorized it as expensive gimmickry.



When splitting firewood with the Vipukirves/Leveraxe it really does not make any difference whether the wood is frozen or in summer temperature. This is because of the nearly non existent friction . The blade of the Leveraxe penetrates into the wood on an optimum strike only 5 millimetres, less than a quarter of an inch. 
The conventional axe and maul must go all the way through the block and struggle it's way against the friction. In the winter the moist in the wood is frozen that makes the wood slippery. That is why the splitting is easier in the winter with the axes based to wedge.
The Leveraxe splitting technique multiplies the splitting force many times bigger because of leverage. Momentary splitting force can be over 15 tons.
Most of the splitting power with the conventional axes and mauls  vanishes to the friction.
Based to the feed back from all over the world, the hard wood is not any more a problem, when splitting with the Leveraxe.
Here are some videos to make it easier to understand.



http://youtubedoubler.com/?video1=h...=channel&list=UL&start2&authorName=meahwahwah


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## FINLAND (Feb 20, 2014)

Thistle said:


> Brother sent me the link via nbcnews on facebook a few days ago.Asked me what I thought of it.Told him "I thought it was no more than a yuppie axe,an overpriced fancy gimmick."
> 
> Noticed on the company video that it looks like straight grained pine or birch that is being split.Then brother said "Who burns PINE?"  He mentioned "how he'd burn pine in the firepit or when camping,but NOT in up the chimney in his open fireplace...."
> 
> ...



Splitting elm.


Apple 1.


Apple 2.


Apple 3.


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## FINLAND (Feb 20, 2014)

Mike T said:


> I saw it pointed out somewhere that the torque at the end would be very painful after a short while. Notice what the axe does when it stops and see how it twists your wrists.


There will be no twist in the wrists, because the splitting technique is such, that you must hold the handle as gently as possible in your hands to allow the rotation.
Do not squeeze the handle.
Do not resist the rotation.
The Leveraxe does not stop suddenly as the conventional axes and mauls.
It stops "slowly" via rotation.
The safety elements act like shock absorber at the time when the blade stops on the top of the block.


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## FINLAND (Feb 20, 2014)

CenterTree said:


> HOLY CRAP...and I thought my Tennis Elbow was bad NOW.
> 
> 
> Also, it looks like ya have to move in a clock-wise circle only.
> ...



The reason why it is advisable to make a clock-wise circle only is because of the design of the axe blade. It is eccentric, one sided. This means that it will lean to the right at the very moment when the edge of the blade touches the surface of the block. The safety elements operate as planned when you hit so, that the right side of the blade turns to the remaining part of the block.
When walking around the chopper block it is safer to move so that you can see the possible obstacles on the ground in front of you. 
If circling count a clock-wise you must walk backwards and you do not see the obstacles.

Talking about hydraulic splitter. Competition.


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## FINLAND (Feb 20, 2014)

bluedogz said:


> All I can say is I only have one badly-damaged arm, and my Fiskars does me quite nicely.  I don't know if I could take the torquing.


It can also be done this easy.


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## TreePointer (Feb 20, 2014)

FINLAND said:


> When splitting firewood with the Vipukirves/Leveraxe it really does not make any difference whether the wood is frozen or in summer temperature. This is because of the nearly non existent friction . The blade of the Leveraxe penetrates into the wood on an optimum strike only 5 millimetres, less than a quarter of an inch.
> The conventional axe and maul must go all the way through the block and struggle it's way against the friction. In the winter the moist in the wood is frozen that makes the wood slippery. That is why the splitting is easier in the winter with the axes based to wedge.
> The Leveraxe splitting technique multiplies the splitting force many times bigger because of leverage. Momentary splitting force can be over 15 tons.
> Most of the splitting power with the conventional axes and mauls  vanishes to the friction.
> ...




It has nothing to do with the axe.  I was commenting on the tree species, phase of water in the wood, and length of round to be split.  Fact--some tree species split much easier than others.  Fact--in some tree species, the added pressure of frozen water (solid water is larger in volume than liquid water) in the wood can make splitting easier.  Also, some species split better after seasoning and some split easier when green.  The videos are deceptive unless all testing conditions are disclosed (truthfully) and by knowledgeable test designers.

Force doesn't change due to the shape of the head.  Force per unit area contacting the wood on impact (Pressure) does.  Impact force is another story.



> Based to the feed back from all over the world, the hard wood is not any more a problem, when splitting with the Leveraxe.



Because of its much lesser mass, much more velocity (human effort) is required than splitting axe alternatives.  I thought the feedback "from all over the world" included reviews form Arboristsite.com?

Please disclose all of your connections, direct and indirect, to this product.


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## gzecc (Feb 20, 2014)

Any wood that splits that easily is a geat candidate for that design. If I split easily split wood routinely, I might try it, and not need a hydraulic splitter.


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## Jags (Feb 20, 2014)

Just to point out some generalities (yes, I know there are exceptions)
Over the pond (where this was born):
A: it is common for them to cut their wood shorter (small stoves)
B: It is common for them to split smaller (small stoves)
C: Their firewood is mostly of softer varieties
D: There is very little old growth or large trees that are getting used for firewood over there.

All of these things can add up to a hugely different splitting experience than us 'Mericans are used to. That doesn't make it a good or bad tool.  It just must be taken into account for using the right tool for the right job.  Beating the heck out of some nasty elm ain't this tools place.  But snapping sticks off of some straight grained softwoods it might just be the cats meow.


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## FINLAND (Feb 21, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> It has nothing to do with the axe.  I was commenting on the tree species, phase of water in the wood, and length of round to be split.  Fact--some tree species split much easier than others.  Fact--in some tree species, the added pressure of frozen water (solid water is larger in volume than liquid water) in the wood can make splitting easier.  Also, some species split better after seasoning and some split easier when green.  The videos are deceptive unless all testing conditions are disclosed (truthfully) and by knowledgeable test designers.
> 
> Force doesn't change due to the shape of the head.  Force per unit area contacting the wood on impact (Pressure) does.  Impact force is another story.
> 
> ...



*The world is also full of scepticism*. There is not much ton be done for that.
There is only the hope that people starts to understand certain physical laws.
http://vipukirves.fi/english/description.htm


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## FINLAND (Feb 21, 2014)

Jags said:


> Just to point out some generalities (yes, I know there are exceptions)
> Over the pond (where this was born):
> A: it is common for them to cut their wood shorter (small stoves)
> B: It is common for them to split smaller (small stoves)
> ...



This double video shows the difference. Count the number of strikes. Compare the work load.
http://youtubedoubler.com/?video1=h...=channel&list=UL&start2&authorName=meahwahwah


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## Jags (Feb 21, 2014)

FINLAND said:


> This double video shows the difference. Count the number of strikes. Compare the work load.
> http://youtubedoubler.com/?video1=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ol57Y57-mw&start1=0&video2=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJt-UR9f_a4&feature=channel&list=UL&start2&authorName=meahwahwah



I am not sure what that comparison is supposed to show.  The Fiskars guy is using a completely different splitting style (trying to bust the log in half then quarters), while the vip is peeling off of the edges AND with what appears to be a shorter round.  For every video that you put up, I can post one single pic that proves my point of the proper tool for the proper job and that the VIP is not the answer for all:




Split THAT with ANY hand held tool.  I dare you.

I am not, repeat, NOT trying to take anything away from that tool.  I was part of the discussion on the original threads about this tool when it was being tested by many people over here.  The consensus was pretty clear.  Straight grained, easy splitting stuff was where this tool shined.  Difficult, gnarly, twisted grain stuff...not so much.


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## FINLAND (Feb 21, 2014)

Jags said:


> I am not sure what that comparison is supposed to show.  The Fiskars guy is using (trying to bust the log in half then quarters), while the vip is peeling off of the edges AND with what appears to be a shorter round.  For every video that you put up, I can post one single pic that proves my point of the proper tool for the proper job and that the VIP is not the answer for all:
> View attachment 128085
> 
> 
> ...




The whole idea is about the completely different splitting style. The purpose of the videos is to show the other way to split the fire wood.
What ever, the young man had to strike 59 times to get the block splitted. It took 7,05 minutes (425 seconds). Each strike took 7 seconds.
The block was splitted with the Leveraxe in 40 seconds. Each strike took 2 seconds.
It is not prohibited to use the brain when splitting *Difficult, gnarly, twisted grain stuff.*
The age of the man with the Leveraxe was 69*.*
What I'm trying to say is, that there is no need to have so much force any more because the certain laws of physics.
Leverage without practically no friction is an invincible combination.
Here's an other way to make the firewood. Also never been before. It is handy with the Vipukirves/Leveraxe.
Observe, the man who splits the wood is 69 . Later, after some experiece, the same amount has been splitted in two (2) minutes.
So, one cubic meter of firewood will take six (6) minutes to be splitted. Of course this requires good physical condition for the person who does the job.
I am not, repeat, not trying to take anything away from anybody, just trying to make some peoples life  easier.


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## bigbarf48 (Feb 21, 2014)

I think what people are saying is that this tool comes at an incredibly high premium, but really doesn't do anything that a normal axe can't. Of course it's easier to split off the edges, that's where there's the least resistance, so the above video proves nothing 

If this axe could bust a big gnarly piece in half easily, people might be more interested. But as it is, the price doesn't warrant the benefits


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## Jags (Feb 21, 2014)

I can't go on.  To further this discussion I might be seen as bashing this product - and that is not my intentions.  I will let it go at -  This tool was tested in the hands of several experienced hand splitters from the states.  Many reported good results when in ideal wood.  MOST reported poor results in some of our (USA) more difficult woods and more frustration than if typical maul type splitter were used.


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## TreePointer (Feb 21, 2014)

The friction argument is doesn't hold for this splitting tool.  The momentum of any splitting axe is enough to overcome frictional forces encountered for the few inches that a Leveraxe penetrates the wood.

If the Leveraxe (or any other splitting axe for that matter) doesn't have enough _*impact force*_ to split (start a split that travels beyond the impact surface) the wood upon initial contact, then a great deal of the frictional forces that slow the head don't come into play, anyway.  It is he compression of the wood fibers directly opposite the impact force that essentially accounts for the majority of the deceleration and subsequent stopping of the head.

The Leveraxe is a fine tool that excels with certain types of wood and specific ways of splitting.  It is not the best splitter for all types of wood and manners of splitting--no axe is.  Around here, we like longer logs and thicker splits, and the best BTU's are found in tougher splitting wood than birch.

I use tools that are up to the challenge of splitting the vast majority of logs around here, and half the time that tool is a 35-ton splitter or an 80cc noodling saw.


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## bluedogz (Feb 21, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> Please disclose all of your connections, direct and indirect, to this product.




Fin, do you have a video of someone using your device with one hand only?  If you look at my avatar you will see why.

Also, an answer to Tree's question would be nice.


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## FINLAND (Feb 21, 2014)

bigbarf48 said:


> I think what people are saying is that this tool comes at an incredibly high premium, but really doesn't do anything that a normal axe can't. Of course it's easier to split off the edges, that's where there's the least resistance, so the above video proves nothing
> 
> If this axe could bust a big gnarly piece in half easily, people might be more interested. But as it is, the price doesn't warrant the benefits


I only wonder why you want to fight against the strongest resistance what you can find in the tree, if there is the way how to beat it more easy. 
After all there is no way  that you could put the half block to your fireplace.
You right, it is easier to split off the edges especially with the Vipukirves/Leveraxe, because the safety elements stop the blade on the top of the block without the fear that you might hurt yourself.


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## bigbarf48 (Feb 21, 2014)

FINLAND said:


> I only wonder why you want to fight against the strongest resistance what you can find in the tree, if there is the way how to beat it more easy.
> After all there is no way  that you could put the half block to your fireplace.
> You right, it is easier to split off the edges especially with the Vipukirves/Leveraxe, because the safety elements stop the blade on the top of the block without the fear that you might hurt yourself.



I dont know, why is the guy with the fiskars going head to head with the lever axe doing it?

Safety is nice , but paying 300 dollars for it seems unreasonable seeing as Ive split many cords of wood and have never had any dangerous encounters with my axe


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## Jags (Feb 21, 2014)

FINLAND said:


> After all there is no way that you could put the half block to your fireplace.


But you should also understand that we typically burn larger splits than over the pond.  In your video above of splitting the elm round - the medium sized round was split into 24 pieces (yes, I counted).  It would have been a max of about 8 if I were splitting it.  That alone changes the splitting style and approach to the log.


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## FINLAND (Feb 21, 2014)

Jags said:


> I can't go on.  To further this discussion I might be seen as bashing this product - and that is not my intentions.  I will let it go at -  This tool was tested in the hands of several experienced hand splitters from the states.  Many reported good results when in ideal wood.  MOST reported poor results in some of our (USA) more difficult woods and more frustration than if typical maul type splitter were used.



I fully understand, that the splitting technique is not very clear for everybody, because nearly everything are done the opposite way comparing to the conventional way. The Man has splitted wood since the stone age with the same method (Wedge). All the sudden there is an other way to do it. Of course there is scepticism, but after really testing and realizing the idea there will be no doubts any more.
I have met many very highly skilled persons in many fairs and markets. They tried the test axe like they had used to do with their conventional axes. Not much happened. After a few advise they could split the wood so, than never before. It's question about technique.


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## Jags (Feb 21, 2014)

FINLAND said:


> It's question about technique.



It is also the question of the end product.  I have no use for 5 cords of tooth picks.


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## Butcher (Feb 21, 2014)

Jags said:


> It is also the question of the end product.  I have no use for 5 cords of tooth picks.


 Aint that the truth. and that Elm being split aint the same as what I dump from corn field fence rows here in Iowa that's fer sure. Like splittin a bowl full of noodles some times.


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## FINLAND (Feb 21, 2014)

bluedogz said:


> Fin, do you have a video of someone using your device with one hand only?  If you look at my avatar you will see why.
> 
> Also, an answer to Tree's question would be nice.


The Leveraxe is recommended to hold with two hands because of safety reasons. Too many people have cut their fingers by holding the block with the other hand. There has happened NO ACCIDENT with the Leveraxe.
It will take some time for me to understand the Tree's message, you see I am not native English, so I must study the language all the time.


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## FINLAND (Feb 21, 2014)

Jags said:


> But you should also understand that we typically burn larger splits than over the pond.  In your video above of splitting the elm round - the medium sized round was split into 24 pieces (yes, I counted).  It would have been a max of about 8 if I were splitting it.  That alone changes the splitting style and approach to the log.


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## FINLAND (Feb 21, 2014)

bigbarf48 said:


> I dont know, why is the guy with the fiskars going head to head with the lever axe doing it?
> 
> Safety is nice , but paying 300 dollars for it seems unreasonable seeing as Ive split many cords of wood and have never had any dangerous encounters with my axe


Lucky you.


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## Jags (Feb 21, 2014)

FINLAND said:


> you see I am not native English,



No worries - your non-native English is much better than any secondary language I can muster.


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## TreePointer (Feb 21, 2014)

FINLAND, I do appreciate your information and am always am open to learning about new tools and techniques.

My question about disclosing your connections to the Leveraxe was to let all readers know why you are a fan and apologist of this tool.  More directly, we would like to know if you have a financial interest in the success of the Leveraxe.  Do you or anyone connected to you (friends, family, business associates) stand to make any money or benefit in any manner in the success or sales of this product?

There's nothing wrong with promoting a product and I'm all for people making money in their business.   It is, however, proper to disclose connections to a product that you are championing.  In many forums, it is considered rude and even trolling not to disclose such information.


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## Dieselhead (Feb 21, 2014)

Simply put, Do you work for or own the leveraxe company is the question


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## Butcher (Feb 21, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> FINLAND, I do appreciate your information and am always am open to learning about new tools and techniques.
> 
> My question about disclosing your connections to the Leveraxe was to let all readers know why you are a fan and apologist of this tool.  More directly, we would like to know if you have a financial interest in the success of the Leveraxe.  Do you or anyone connected to you (friends, family, business associates) stand to make any money or benefit in any manner in the success or sales of this product?
> 
> There's nothing wrong with promoting a product and I'm all for people making money in their business.   It is, however, proper to disclose connections to a product that you are championing.  In many forums, it is considered rude and even trolling not to disclose such information.


 That's what I'm thinkin. While his heart is probably in the right place when it comes to passing along information on a better way to do things Mr. Finland may not have a grasp on the American way of doing things and the amount of skepticism we have with such things any more. I'm 3rd generation German in this country so I can kinda understand his wanting to make his point. I at times have the "It's my way or the highway" problem myself. But the more you argue the point the less people listen. And at 300 bucks a pop you aint gonna get to many ears open iffn you keep arguing. Just my 2 cents worth and if you don't like it, hit the highway. Just kiddin.


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## bigbarf48 (Feb 21, 2014)

FINLAND said:


> Lucky you.



I wouldn't consider myself lucky, it's just very difficult to swing an axe into your legs if you're using a normal length axe


From his past posts, it seems Mr. Finland may be the owner of or otherwise have a stake in this product. All of his posts on hearth.com have been promoting the axe. I don't know the hearth policy on this, but Treepointer is right, lots of forums have rules against that type of posting


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## FINLAND (Feb 22, 2014)

Hello
Something about myself.
I used to be as an air traffic controller and pilot. I have worked in many countries.
In 1969 I was in Benin, Cotonou, West Africa working for the International Red Cross as a flight operation officer during the Biafran war.
In 1976 was going to Angola to create  Red Cross airlift. Cancelled because of the situation got better in the country.
Was going to Kambodza during the crises, but they closed the borders for many years. The international Red Cross  didn't get in.
1980-81 Air traffic controller Saudi Arabia Riad.
1981-83 Air traffic controller Malesia, Kuala Lumpur.
1984 Air traffic controller Qatar, Doha.
1984-1995 Air traffic controller Helsinki, Finland
Retired March 1995.
Read this.http://vipukirves.fi/english/tale_of_vipukirves.htm
So I invented the Vipukirves/Leveraxe.
I worked hard to make this invention possible for everybody.
During these years I have made several patents concerning this invention.
I made the company when I was 65.
I decided to make the best available tool also technically. There is no way that this tool could be made in some cheap production country.
This has been a real struggle against envy and scepticism.
I do not pay any salary for myself.
I consider this as my pension hobby.
I do not play golf.
There is a theoretical possibility, that somebody will gain something about this some day.
I do not need money. I am happy with my pension.
In my value scale money is no even close to the top.
Important is healthy, helping other people, good relationship to wife  and other people.
I do not want to fight or argue with anybody.
I have never told anybody to buy my invention.
I have made my best to explain how this invention operates.
I have told about the advantages what it offers.
I am no taking anything away from anybody.
I am trying to give  a safe , enjoyable, effective and easy way to split the firewood.
My opinion is that it is everybody's benefit.
I give this information free of charge.
As return I often get a lot chit straight to my face.
Never mind, I know that I am going on right track.
I have 67 years experience in splitting firewood
Here is a story.
Once upon a time there were a group of very wise men sitting under a Platan tree.
They were arguing whether the globe was round or flat. The majority won. So the globe was flat for the next 150 years.
Until, people discovered it to be round after all. Copernicus was the only one in the group , who was right.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nicolaus_Copernicus
My grand mother was Polish. Who knows, maybe I'm related to Copernicus.
Hopefully this question will be cleared before 150 years has passed. *I am now 74 and the owner of the company as well I am the inventor*.
I know most of this invention. Why don't you you take your chances and get all the possible information for free. You are not there any more after 150 years when all the firewood are splitted with the Vipukirves/Leveraxe.
You do not have to buy this tool. It is totally under your decision. It does not hurt anybody to learn something new.
I will attach some links to enable more information about this subject.
Take or leave it, the choice is yours
I wish you all the best from Finland.
Regards
Heikki, the inventor

PS. Something to look and listen

http://www.mnn.com/family/protection-safety/stories/weve-been-splitting-wood-all-wrong

http://vipukirves.fi/english/description.htm

http://youtubedoubler.com/?video1=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ol57Y57-mw&start1=0&video2=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJt-UR9f_a4&feature=channel&list=UL&start2&authorName=meahwahwah

http://videodoubler.com/combo/40344

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=vipukirves&sm=12

https://www.google.fi/search?q=leveraxe&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:fifficial&client=firefox-a&gws_rd=cr&ei=QE_MUpOTFaGTywO77YHABg

https://www.facebook.com/pages/VIPUKIRVESLEVERAXE/112802602087540

http://www.networx.com/article/weve-been-splitting-wood-all-wrong


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## ewdudley (Feb 22, 2014)

I don't envy anyone who's job it is to peddle a $300 ax.  Good luck to you and the equally amazing girl from NZ.


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## TreePointer (Feb 22, 2014)

FINLAND, all you had to say is that you invented the axe and own the company that makes it.  That's all a disclosure would be. 

I hold inventors, manufacturers, and business owners in high esteem.  They contribute jobs and to the advancement of society.  If a lot of people like your invention and you make a lot of money from it, that is a good thing.


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## Kosmik (Feb 22, 2014)

FINLAND said:


> I only wonder why you want to fight against the strongest resistance what you can find in the tree, if there is the way how to beat it more easy.
> After all there is no way  that you could put the half block to your fireplace.


I think differences in stoves may account for some of the differences.  Plenty of people like larger pieces of dried wood for their woodstoves it seems: get it dry, get it lit and let it cruise...
However in a place where masonry heaters, not EPA steel stoves, are the norm.  Smaller pieces are better so as to keep the firehot and raging during the burn....
So I think there are plenty of people who say 'cool, but I'm not splitting my round into 16 pieces of kindling"...Whereas I hear in a masonry stove you want that smaller diameter wood (hence corpicing/pollarding in Europe).

Some people put quarters, halves or full rounds in their stoves...So four good whacks with the maul gets er done.  I bet in the same amount of time it takes to get 20 pieces from the leveraxe.
Don't get offended, just different needs for fuel diameter...So what seems as God's gift to the woodheater to you, isn't more than a gimmick to 99% of American woodheaters.

And since this site is a steel stove dominated place...Don't be surprised when no one here cares about it.  
Think about your target market in America...Is small currently.  Especially because we're American and people will take 4 times as long, if need be, to use a hydraulic splitter, just so they don't have to swing an axe.


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## Kosmik (Feb 22, 2014)

FINLAND said:


> I only wonder why you want to fight against the strongest resistance what you can find in the tree, if there is the way how to beat it more easy.


Because one good whack takes away the strongest resistance, and then it's all downhill from there.  
But I can generate a lot of force with a 12# maul.  And it don't take a lot of energy to gently raise it above my head, just got to slow down the accelerator on the lift.

Don't get me wrong, looks cool...I think you just found the wrong crowd.


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## jatoxico (Feb 22, 2014)

I personally would like to try it. Finland quartered a couple of his rounds even though mostly seemed to be straight grained stuff. I would like to see how it handles some gnarly stuff but at it's current price of $300 bucks too much to "try".


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## ClassicSWC (Feb 23, 2014)

If it was $25 or 30 at Home Depot I might futz around with it just for kicks and giggles. But for 300 clams I got an electric splitter at the same place. I'm happy with that purchase.

I do agree with sometimes not just plowing into the dead center of a round, but I suspect I'm preaching to the choir.


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## FINLAND (Feb 23, 2014)

ClassicSWC said:


> If it was $25 or 30 at Home Depot I might futz around with it just for kicks and giggles. But for 300 clams I got an electric splitter at the same place. I'm happy with that purchase.
> 
> I do agree with sometimes not just plowing into the dead center of a round, but I suspect I'm preaching to the choir.



The price of the Vipukirves/Leveraxe.
The price of the axe is 155.74 EUR. This equals 213.47 USD.  238.84 CAD.The price has been the same over 8 years. Shipping &handling is 47.26 EUR. This equals 64.779 USD.  72.327 CAD. http://easyconverter.net/currency/
There is quite a big water between Finland and American continent. The shipping comes via air freight and will be delivered to your shipping address.
Best regards
Heikki, the inventor


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## FINLAND (Feb 23, 2014)

jatoxico said:


> I personally would like to try it. Finland quartered a couple of his rounds even though mostly seemed to be straight grained stuff. I would like to see how it handles some gnarly stuff but at it's current price of $300 bucks too much to "try".


I haven't found any "gnarly stuff" for the Leveraxe, but I clearly remember the times, when I had to use the conventional axes and mauls. That is why I created the Leveraxe. 
How come, I have a feeling, that we are talking more about money than the Leveraxe?
Buying a Leveraxe is not compulsory, it is an alternative.


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## FINLAND (Feb 23, 2014)

Kosmik said:


> Because one good whack takes away the strongest resistance, and then it's all downhill from there.
> But I can generate a lot of force with a 12# maul.  And it don't take a lot of energy to gently raise it above my head, just got to slow down the accelerator on the lift.
> 
> Don't get me wrong, looks cool...I think you just found the wrong crowd.


You mean, As the guy on the left?
http://youtubedoubler.com/?video1=h...=channel&list=UL&start2&authorName=meahwahwah


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## ewdudley (Feb 23, 2014)

FINLAND said:


> How come, I have a feeling, that we are talking more about money than the Leveraxe?


Apparently you are unable to grasp the idea that, considering the asking price, the quality and efficacy of the unit are entirely irrelevant.


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## FINLAND (Feb 23, 2014)

Kosmik said:


> I think differences in stoves may account for some of the differences.  Plenty of people like larger pieces of dried wood for their woodstoves it seems: get it dry, get it lit and let it cruise...
> However in a place where masonry heaters, not EPA steel stoves, are the norm.  Smaller pieces are better so as to keep the firehot and raging during the burn....
> So I think there are plenty of people who say 'cool, but I'm not splitting my round into 16 pieces of kindling"...Whereas I hear in a masonry stove you want that smaller diameter wood (hence corpicing/pollarding in Europe).
> 
> ...


It's all the same in what size the wood is. There is exactly the same energy per unit of weight whether the wood in small kindling or bigger size blocks.
The question is, how you can take most of the energy to your own advantage instead of letting it go out of the chimney.
I wouldn't bother to swing an axe either, but the Leveraxe is totally a different story.


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## infinitymike (Feb 23, 2014)

I read a lot of the posts but not all of them.
It seems it's twisting action  of the handle would cause more blisters than I would care to have.

But, What really impresses me is that Finland has been a member for 7 years and only has 67 posts, most of which are from this thread, but the second his axe is brought up for discussion he knows it!
He must have something that tracks views of  his product and can trace it in cyber space. Talk about big brother


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## FINLAND (Feb 23, 2014)

ewdudley said:


> Apparently you are unable to grasp the idea that, considering the asking price, the quality and efficacy of the unit are entirely irrelevant.


Luckily we both live in free country where we can do our own decisions to a certain point. One thing to which we cannot effect is the value of USD. It is not very favourable against the EUR. in these days. That is why your price is 1.3703 times higher http://easyconverter.net/currency/


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## infinitymike (Feb 23, 2014)

Maybe the reason man has been using the same tool for splitting wood for millennia is because it works well with out need for improvement.

I've been framing houses for close to 30 years and having been swinging the same style  hammer.
There have been many attempts to change the shape, size and weight and quite honestly I've fallen for a few of these so called improvements only to pull out my trusty old style hammer in regret of spending the money.

Right now Milwaukee has a titanium hammer that is selling for $200 
http://www.amazon.com/Stiletto-TB15MC-15-Ounce-Titanium-Milled-Face/dp/B00079R1YM
What in the world good be that much better to warrant that kinda money.


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## FINLAND (Feb 23, 2014)

infinitymike said:


> I read a lot of the posts but not all of them.
> *It seems it's twisting action  of the handle would cause more blisters than I would care to have.*
> 
> But, What really impresses me is that Finland has been a member for 7 years and only has 67 posts, most of which are from this thread, but the second his axe is brought up for discussion he knows it!
> He must have something that tracks views of  his product and can trace it in cyber space. Talk about big brother


Please, read the rest of the posts, You'll find the answer. *No problems.*


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## jatoxico (Feb 23, 2014)

FINLAND said:


> I haven't found any "gnarly stuff" for the Leveraxe, but I clearly remember the times, when I had to use the conventional axes and mauls. That is why I created the Leveraxe.
> How come, I have a feeling, that we are talking more about money than the Leveraxe?
> Buying a Leveraxe is not compulsory, it is an alternative.



I posted I'd like to see it split something "gnarly" or as others have said some of the typical eastern hardwood I deal with since only a small fraction of what I split is straight and clean and did not require limbing during bucking. But I want to be fair, I'm interested to see how it would work on rounds that I would consider using other hand tools like my Fiskar's.

No doubt rounds can be found that will defy splitting w/ the Leveraxe just like anything else. So I'm not expecting it to magically split a large crotch of red oak (although I can usually whittle them down pretty good w/ the Fiskars). The question I have is does it out perform the tools I already have in terms of speed and or effort required.


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## FINLAND (Feb 23, 2014)

infinitymike said:


> Maybe the reason man has been using the same tool for splitting wood for millennia is because it works well with out need for improvement.
> 
> I've been framing houses for close to 30 years and having been swinging the same style  hammer.
> There have been many attempts to change the shape, size and weight and quite honestly I've fallen for a few of these so called improvements only to pull out my trusty old style hammer in regret of spending the money.
> ...


You are anyway using a computer. Obviously it is better than your typewriter. 
The Leveraxe is the first real improvement among the hand operational wood splitting apparatuses, because it uses totally different technique comparing to the axes and mauls which are originated from the stone age.


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## FINLAND (Feb 23, 2014)

jatoxico said:


> I posted I'd like to see it split something "gnarly" or as others have said some of the typical eastern hardwood I deal with since only a small fraction of what I split is straight and clean and did not require limbing during bucking. But I want to be fair, I'm interested to see how it would work on rounds that I would consider using other hand tools like my Fiskar's.
> 
> No doubt rounds can be found that will defy splitting w/ the Leveraxe just like anything else. So I'm not expecting it to magically split a large crotch of red oak (although I can usually whittle them down pretty good w/ the Fiskars). The question I have is does it out perform the tools I already have in terms of speed and or effort required.


I have many of your mentioned axes, but they DID NOT please me, because of the danger, an efficiency and hard work with sore hands. That is why created the Vipukirves/Leveraxe. I have experience during 67 years of all kind of axes, but there is no need to touch them any more.


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## smokeater (Feb 23, 2014)

It looks like a great tool who sells them in Canada?


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## FINLAND (Feb 23, 2014)

smokeater said:


> It looks like a great tool who sells them in Canada?


Sorry. No one yet. I'm working hard to find an appropriate. agent. So far the only possibility via on line shop.


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## smokeater (Feb 23, 2014)

Thanks I will check it out


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## ewdudley (Feb 23, 2014)

FINLAND said:


> You are anyway using a computer. Obviously it is better than your typewriter.


The comparison is not similar to that of a computer to a typewriter.  It is similar to a comparison between a $400 computer that can do the job and a $4000 computer that can do the job.

I have a $400 computer that -- thanks to the GNU project and Finnish inventor Mr. Torvalds -- can do the job easily and I am not willing even to spend time reading about a $4000 computer that merely claims to do the same job more easily.

Likewise I have a $40 ax that does the job easily and I am not willing even to spend time reading about a $300 ax that merely claims to to the same job more easily. Don't want it, don't need it, even if all the claims are completely true.


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## FINLAND (Feb 23, 2014)

ewdudley said:


> The comparison is not similar to that of a computer to a typewriter.  It is similar to a comparison between a $400 computer that can do the job and a $4000 computer that can do the job.
> 
> I have a $400 computer that -- thanks to the GNU project and Finnish inventor Mr. Torvalds -- can do the job easily and I am not willing even to spend time reading about a $4000 computer that merely claims to do the same job more easily.
> 
> Likewise I have a $40 ax that does the job easily and I am not willing even to spend time reading about a $300 ax that merely claims to to the same job more easily. Don't want it, don't need it, even if all the claims are completely true.


I took the example of the development aspects. I see the other values except money. 
You do not have to buy. Don't worry, be happy.


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