# Small Wood Stove Advice



## zaxxon (Oct 2, 2012)

Hi,

I am looking for a small wood stove from this era for a 500 sf cottage.  I know of the Jotul 602 but I imagine that there are other stoves out there in that class that I don't know about.  I want something I can hopefully find on Craigslist for not too much money.  If anyone has any ideas, I'd appreciate it.  

Thanks,

Zach


----------



## zaxxon (Oct 2, 2012)

By the way, I am in upstate New York in an insulated (pretty leaky) cottage.


----------



## begreen (Oct 2, 2012)

Look for Morso 2B, Lange 6303, Vermont Castings Aspen, Vermont Castings Resolute in used stoves or get a new Englander 17-VL and have a modern clean burner for under $650.


----------



## defiant3 (Oct 6, 2012)

The Vermont Castings Intrepid should not be overlooked either, but the Englander gets my vote.


----------



## rkshed (Oct 6, 2012)

Partial to the Garrison II stove.
1000sf ranch I heated nicely with one all winter. Tiny too.


----------



## zaxxon (Oct 7, 2012)

Thank you all so much for the suggestions! I've been looking them up.


----------



## dafattkidd (Oct 7, 2012)

If possible can you post a pic of the place.  Sounds like a lot of fun.


----------



## tcassavaugh (Oct 7, 2012)

any decisions yet?? small leaky "insulated" house in upstate n.y. sounds like you might need a bigger stove than you are talking about. what part of "upstate" i've got folks in rensselaer and essex counties and both can get pretty chilly.

cass


----------



## zaxxon (Oct 8, 2012)

Dafattkidd, I don't have any photos now.  It's nice here, my girlfriend and I are very cosy here, but it would be great with a wood stove.  They help me get through winters. Cass, you know, I was wondering the same thing about the stove size.  I am not that far upstate, the Hudson Valley, but it used to get cold up here in the winters before all this strange weather.   I think when the windows are replaced in this cottage though, it will retain heat a lot better.  I found a douglas elite model s131e 20, and have arranged to buy it tomorrow.  It seems to be on the small side but bigger than a Jotul 602.  I thought it would be warmer and possibly more efficient than a box stove, but I could be wrong.  It's $125 and the seller says there are no cracks or warping and it is in good condition.  Any thoughts anyone?


----------



## zaxxon (Oct 11, 2012)

I ended up getting the Douglas Elite, it is made by Haugh's (I'm wondering how to pronounce this.  Maybe like "laughs"?) Products.  I'm accustomed to cast iron, so I'm still undecided about using steel. But the stove is in good shape and was inexpensive.  Anyone have any thoughts on steel stoves?  Thank you.


----------



## begreen (Oct 12, 2012)

I think Haugh became Century stoves. A well made steel stove can last a long time, especially if it hasn't been abused. Can you post some shots of the stove?


----------



## zaxxon (Oct 13, 2012)

Here's a photo of the stove.  I put a half gallon milk container by it for scale.  It's about 19" wide, 19" deep, and 25" tall.


----------



## begreen (Oct 15, 2012)

Looks like a simple stove. Is there a plate on the back with clearances and certification?


----------



## eclecticcottage (Oct 16, 2012)

Welcome to a fellow full time cottage dweller!  You're cottage is a bit smaller than ours, sq ft wise (we're really a little under 700 but it's easier to just say 700).  I'll be interested to see how a small stove keeps up in the winter for you.  We're right on the lakeshore so we do get wholloped by the winds here (we're smack dab between the lake and cornfields so we have no windbreaks), but the Republic has ended up being the right size for us so far based on last winter.


----------



## zaxxon (Nov 11, 2012)

Begreen, here are some photos of the sticker.  Sorry about the delay!

Thanks Eclectic!  Yes, I wonder how the stove will heat this little place too.  Thanks for the info, it's good to have comparisons.  I am looking forward to not having a gas bill as well.  My girlfriend and I are amazed at the miniscule amount of gas we used for cooking with the propane heater off during the warm months.


----------



## zaxxon (Nov 12, 2012)

The floor protection requirement given on the sticker is a 3/8" asbestos pad or equivalent. I haven't found much online providing an R value for 3/8" asbestos. Does anyone know of a definite equivalent for 3/8" asbestos? According to a couple of threads on this forum, it could be R .42-R .45. That seems to be a pretty undemanding requirement. I had planned on building something with a lot more insulation. I believe the regulations require micore where I live. I also want the pad elevated, I just don't like the idea of the pad touching the floor underneath. I also want to conserve weight, and want tiles, and don't want any combustible materials in the pad. If anyone has any suggestions for using micore and getting the pad stiff enough for the tiles, please let me know. I thought steel studs on end, 1/4 hardiebacker, micore, 1/4 hardiebacker, tile. Thinset between the sheets.  Would the two layers of 1/4 HB be insufficient for rigidity?

I also want to trim the pad in wood. I see a lot of hearth pads trimmed in wood, and I like how it looks. But it seems counterintuitive that there would be a combustible material closer than 36" from the stove. Also, in making the rear floating heat shield, I've read there should be a gap between it and the floor, to provide for convection. What about the strip of drywall that's exposed by this gap, would it be vulnerable to high heat?

Thanks,

Zach

Here are the threads that mention 3/8" asbestos:

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/millboard-the-truth.7226/

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/hearth-pad.23410/


----------



## zaxxon (Nov 12, 2012)

Also, they only carry 25g studs at my local hardware store, can I get away with them if I use more, or should I order 16g?


----------



## begreen (Nov 12, 2012)

You are seriously overthinking this unless you are trying to make a pad for the worst case requirements for another brand of stove. Most of us have pads right on the floor. It's simply not an issue as long as you meet or exceed the requirements. 3/8" millboard protection is a common term in the stove industry. As long as the insulator is non-combustible you will be fine.

Use a sheet of 3/4" plywood, then a couple sheets of Durock Next Gen for your tile base and you will be well covered. Don't worry about it setting on the floor, just be sure the hearth is at least as large as specced for the stove.


----------



## Dune (Nov 12, 2012)

zaxxon said:


> I ended up getting the Douglas Elite, it is made by Haugh's (I'm wondering how to pronounce this. Maybe like "laughs"?) Products. I'm accustomed to cast iron, so I'm still undecided about using steel. But the stove is in good shape and was inexpensive. Anyone have any thoughts on steel stoves? Thank you.


Steel stoves are fine. Far less work to maintain than cast iron.


----------



## eclecticcottage (Nov 12, 2012)

begreen said:


> You are seriously overthinking this unless you are trying to make a pad for the worst case requirements for another brand of stove. Most of us have pads right on the floor. It's simply not an issue as long as you meet or exceed the requirements. 3/8" millboard protection is a common term in the stove industry. As long as the insulator is non-combustible you will be fine.
> 
> Use a sheet of 3/4" plywood, then a couple sheets of Durock Next Gen for your tile base and you will be well covered. Don't worry about it setting on the floor, just be sure the hearth is at least as large as specced for the stove.


 

Hm...ours is on a platform of 2x4's with a 3/4" ply base for the durock the stones sit on.  I'd take a look at different hearth pads and see which way you prefer.

I'd make it a bit bigger than your current stove requires IF you're building so it would be hard to add to if you decide to swap stoves to something a little bigger later.  I love our stove but I didn't really think about this-it's a little bigger than it needed to be for it but if 'd have gone just a few extra inches I'd have a lot more options later if we did decide to change to a new stove.


----------



## zaxxon (Nov 12, 2012)

Thanks Begreen, that does simplify things. The plan you describe of help to me.

Dune, I appreciate the reassurance. I can't wait to get this one going.

Eclectic, thanks that is something to consider. I hadn't thought of that. And again, it's helpful to hear what you used.
I do think they require micore here. Any thoughts on what would be the most lightweight way to use it and have the pad stiff enough for tiles? Do I need to sandwich it between two sheets of Durock, or would 3/4 ply, micore, durock, tile work?


----------



## begreen (Nov 13, 2012)

Micore is not necessary unless you have very high R value requirements. An inch of Durock Next Gen (2 sheets) is R=.78 and completely non-combustible.


----------



## zaxxon (Nov 24, 2012)

Thank you Begreen!


----------



## dafattkidd (Nov 24, 2012)

zaxxon said:


> Thank you Begreen!


 
Watch out that guy's trouble.


----------



## begreen (Nov 25, 2012)

You better believe it. LOL


----------



## zaxxon (Jan 1, 2013)

I haven't been able to work on this project for a while, but I'm back to finish it this week.  I am almost done with the hearth pad, I took Begreen's advice and used a couple sheets of Durock.  I did attach a bottom layer of the lighter gauge Home Depot metal studs laid flat, just for my peace of mind.  I've got some slate floor tile to cover the pad.    

I've got couple more questions, if anyone can help.  In researching the chimney and accessories, I was leaning towards buying Supervent from Lowes, because of the low cost.  From what I read on this forum it is a decent product.  Is that correct?  On a website (http://www.olympiachimney.com/products/cat/VCAA/VCASP) selling Ventis products, I read that their chimney insulation is non-carcinogenic.  Are carcinogens in less expensive chimneys something to worry about?

Thanks,

Zach


----------



## begreen (Jan 2, 2013)

Sounds like a sales pitch. Whatever is in there is totally encased in a stainless wrapper. Check www.dynamitebuys.com for pricing of pipe. They offer good service and pricing.


----------



## zaxxon (Jan 4, 2013)

Thanks.  

I am attaching slate tiles to hardibacker for wall protection, to match the pad.  I'm thinking that the sheets might end up pretty heavy and want good support for them.  Would using metal furring strips for spacers over the sheetrock and studs be alright?  I want to be able to put many screws up the height of the stud rather than four ceramic spacers.


----------



## begreen (Jan 7, 2013)

Cut long, 3" wide strips of the 1/2" backerboard and then double them up to create the 1" shims. Be sure to leave a 1" gap at bottom and top so that air can easily convect upward behind the panel.


----------



## zaxxon (Jan 23, 2013)

Thanks Begreen, I got an extra sheet of backer and will put up the wall protection tomorrow. We're going to do a test burn in the stove tonight (the stove meets its clearance to combustibles requirements without the wall protection, I just want it there for extra protection).

And thanks to the poster of this thread:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/selkirk-supervent-installation-begins.75341/

It was very helpful in the installation.


----------

