# Homelite saw won't stay running



## Skier76 (Apr 23, 2009)

I was given a Homelite Timberman 45 (18" bar, 45cc engine) a few years back. The unit would fire up, but when you gave it gas, it would just bog out. I cleaned out the carb, but it still wouldn't stay running once you squeezed the throttle. I had also put in a tankful of fresh gas and oil after I cleaned the carb. I had no use for it at the time, so I put in the shed. 

Now I have a use for it want to get it running. I took it out the other day and after a few pulls, it fired up. But it still had the same problem; give it gas....'bwwwwwwwwwwwwaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaap' and it stops running. 

Looks like the model number is UT10946A. I'm having a heckuva time finding a manual or parts list online. 

I did a few internet searches for saws with a similar problem. Seems like the carb may need a rebuild kit? 

Any thoughts on where to start?


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## LLigetfa (Apr 23, 2009)

Carb probably just needs a good cleaning.  For starters, unscrew the high jet and try to run it for a minute.  It may be enough to dislodge some dirt.  Take the long red tube from a WD40 can and spray it in the threaded hole where the jet was.  Run it again for a minute and then put the mixture screw back in and try adjusting it.  If that doesn't get it, you'll have to take it apart.

The pickup filter in the tank might be shot letting the carb pick up dirt again.


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## Skier76 (Apr 23, 2009)

Excellent. That's a great place to start. Anyone know what the factory settings are for the carb screws?


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## LLigetfa (Apr 23, 2009)

3 half turns (1-1/2 full turns) is a good start in most cases.


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## kevin j (Apr 23, 2009)

also check the fuel filter, the fuel line from tank to carb, and the impulse hose that operates the fuel pumping diaphragm.
sounds like it is not getting fuel supply. 

k


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## Skier76 (Apr 23, 2009)

kevin j said:
			
		

> also check the fuel filter, the fuel line from tank to carb, and the impulse hose that operates the fuel pumping diaphragm.
> sounds like it is not getting fuel supply.
> 
> k



Will do! I'll take pics and post those as well. Thanks guys!


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## Skier76 (May 5, 2009)

I messed with this for about 45 minutes tonight. I took the carb apart, cleaned it out and rebuilt it. Everything looked to be OK. Same deal...it'll run, then just bog out. 

I must be getting old....I just don't think this thing is worth spending any money on at this point. I got it for free.  I'm just going to get a new saw. Maybe one of those 16" Echo's from the Depot.


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## LLigetfa (May 5, 2009)

Did you try loosening the gas cap?  Maybe a plugged vent.


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## Skier76 (May 5, 2009)

That's one thing I didn't try. I'll give that a shot before throwing in the towel for good. Thanks!


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## tjnamtiw (May 8, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> That's one thing I didn't try. I'll give that a shot before throwing in the towel for good. Thanks!



If it has a Walbro carb on it, there's a little screen under the one end plate that is the 'final filter'.  It can get clogged easily.   Just pick it out, wash it with carb cleaner and push it back in.  If it dies when you open the throttle, it is too lean.  
I'm sure you'll find a lot of people who will 'take it off your hands'.....................


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## Skier76 (May 8, 2009)

I can't remember the name of the carb...it starts with a "Z" and had "Made in China" stamped under it.


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## tjnamtiw (May 9, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> I can't remember the name of the carb...it starts with a "Z" and had "Made in China" stamped under it.



Don't know.  Of course, what DOESN'T have Made in China stamped on it today????


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## realstihl (May 9, 2009)

ZAMA! It has a screen also. Don't give up on it. Good learning experience and you'll be glad you figured it out.


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## tjnamtiw (May 9, 2009)

realstihl said:
			
		

> ZAMA! It has a screen also. Don't give up on it. Good learning experience and you'll be glad you figured it out.



Yea, it looks just like the Walbro carb.  http://www.zamacarb.com/pdfs/TechGuide_2007.pdf 
Don't give up on it.  It's just a piece of aluminum!  You're not going to let that beat you, are you?  Check that little screen, get a rebuild kit for the diaphragms and check valves.  If you have a primer bulb on it, that can also go bad and crack.  Had that happen once.  I use the Walbro's on my large scale model planes too and have had two dead sticks.  One for the clogged screen and one for a hole in the diaphragm.  It's a lot tougher when you're 100 feet in the air!  Don't give up


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## Skier76 (May 9, 2009)

Thanks guys! That guide looks like it'll help. I'll give the carb one more teardown. I'll post pics too.


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## tjnamtiw (May 11, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> Thanks guys! That guide looks like it'll help. I'll give the carb one more teardown. I'll post pics too.



Yea, they really are pretty basic.  Just make sure the passages are clear with compressed air and you have new diaphragms.  The setting of the jets can be tricky so take your time there and do it first without a chain just for safety's sake.


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## Skier76 (May 11, 2009)

I'll give this another shot this week. Where's the screen? I've only seen the diaphrams when I took the carb apart. Do you mean the strainer on the end of the fuel line that's in the tank? 

If you look at that manual, mine looks somewhat like the carb with the yellow choke lever.


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## tjnamtiw (May 11, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> I'll give this another shot this week. Where's the screen? I've only seen the diaphrams when I took the carb apart. Do you mean the strainer on the end of the fuel line that's in the tank?
> 
> If you look at that manual, mine looks somewhat like the carb with the yellow choke lever.



When you take off the one end plate, there should be a small circular piece of fine mesh screen kind of stuffed into a counterbore.  It should be on the same side as the diaphragm with the two little flaps that are the check valves.


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## karri0n (May 11, 2009)

You sure the spark is good? I had a hell of a time with a saw just recently tearing down, checking carb, filters, etc. The spark LOOKED plenty strong and the right color when out of the saw and I grounded it and pulled the rope, but I replaced the plug and the thing fired right up. It was exhibiting the exact same behavior you're describing. I smacked myself in the head after all that...


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## karri0n (May 11, 2009)

hmm... Can you explain that further Pook? I can't figure how there could be more psi caused by the compression stroke than the amount of psi that exists at the time of ignition. It doesn't seem my saw sustained any damage from this anyway, but that's pretty interesting to me.


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## tjnamtiw (May 11, 2009)

Preused ufO brOKer said:
			
		

> bad plug= bad news= if uncombusted gas overpressurizes the cylinder it can bust the piston rings & likewise for old gas



From his description, it really just sounds like his high speed adjustment is way off or his carb is gummed up after sitting for so long.


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## Skier76 (May 12, 2009)

Pulled the saw out of the shed after mowing the lawn. I'll give it another look tomorrow or Wednesday. I'll throw in a new plug for good measure. Worse case, I'll at least have a new plug for when I hopefully get it running again. 

I did some googling on this saw and it seems that the chain brake is prone to failure on this model. I'll investigate that as well.


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## tjnamtiw (May 12, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> Pulled the saw out of the shed after mowing the lawn. I'll give it another look tomorrow or Wednesday. I'll throw in a new plug for good measure. Worse case, I'll at least have a new plug for when I hopefully get it running again.
> 
> I did some googling on this saw and it seems that the chain brake is prone to failure on this model. I'll investigate that as well.



That's interesting.  The chain brake would sure pull that sucker down to parade rest!  Get rid of that thing!


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## Skier76 (May 12, 2009)

It sounds like it may be a PITA to remove...but I think it's worth a look. Especially if it'll get the saw running again. 

Here's one of the links I found: http://www.howtomendit.com/answers.php?id=141373


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## tjnamtiw (May 12, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> It sounds like it may be a PITA to remove...but I think it's worth a look. Especially if it'll get the saw running again.
> 
> Here's one of the links I found: http://www.howtomendit.com/answers.php?id=141373



Yea, the brake housing on my Husky 50 is also melted but the brake still works, SO FAR.  It's really there to protect if you get a kick back, which happens if you are not watching what you're doing.  I always cut with my head off to one side and never in line with the saw.  Worst case, my collar bone takes a hit.  )


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## Skier76 (May 13, 2009)

This saw is somewhat of a pain in the arse. LOL! I started taking it apart last night. I wasn't able to get inside the unit to access the brake; I'm not sure how that's done. I couldn't get the inner part of the clutch off the shaft either. 

So I pulled the carb apart again and gave that a really good cleaning. The primer bulb isn't located on the carb, it's located on the saw body. Two lines go into the carb: one from the primer, one from the tank. The mix screws on this thing are odd. They're partially incased in plastic and can only be adjusted a certain amount. I don't know if this is for emssions reasons or to protect shade tree mechanics like myself from throwing the adjustments really far out of whack. 

As I'm putting it all back together, the c-clip that holds the clutch drum to the shaft when flying and I never heard where it landed. Grrr! I was able to get the saw running, but couldn't really test it. Once the saw got running, the clutch expands and then hits the body of the saw. Instead of breaking something, I shut it down. I'll hit the hardware store today and grab a c-clip.


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## tjnamtiw (May 13, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> This saw is somewhat of a pain in the arse. LOL! I started taking it apart last night. I wasn't able to get inside the unit to access the brake; I'm not sure how that's done. I couldn't get the inner part of the clutch off the shaft either.
> 
> So I pulled the carb apart again and gave that a really good cleaning. The primer bulb isn't located on the carb, it's located on the saw body. Two lines go into the carb: one from the primer, one from the tank. The mix screws on this thing are odd. They're partially incased in plastic and can only be adjusted a certain amount. I don't know if this is for emssions reasons or to protect shade tree mechanics like myself from throwing the adjustments really far out of whack.
> 
> As I'm putting it all back together, the c-clip that holds the clutch drum to the shaft when flying and I never heard where it landed. Grrr! I was able to get the saw running, but couldn't really test it. Once the saw got running, the clutch expands and then hits the body of the saw. Instead of breaking something, I shut it down. I'll hit the hardware store today and grab a c-clip.



Hey, all is not lost.  You learned something!  It sounds like you made progress.  Those annoying plastic restraints on the adjustment screws usually just get broken off by we shade tree mechanics.  The line that runs from the carb to the tank actually is like an overflow and routes excess gas back to the tank (I believe).  One of my saws has the 'external' primer bulb too and it developed a small crack in it and wouldn't feed fuel.  As to the 'E' clip, been there and done that more than once - sadly.  If it runs OK when you get the clutch together but not when the brake is put back on, then that's your problem.


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## Skier76 (May 13, 2009)

Unfortunately, I couldn't access the brake. So if it still doesn't run once I get the clutch together, I may have to dig deeper into the saw body.

Do those primer bulbs leak when they crack? Mind seems to be "OK" right now.


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## kevin j (May 13, 2009)

be careful not to run it without the clutch drum in place. The clutch shoes can move outward with centrifugal force (as they are intended to do) but without the drum to hold them, pieces can go everywhere and possible injury.

May be a frustrating POS, but think of all you have learned and gained so far.......consider it a cheap price of tuition. Basket case 'cheap' motorcycles, cars, mowers, tractors, saws,.....Been there, done that, don't want to again, but glad for what I learned through it. 

k


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## tjnamtiw (May 13, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> Unfortunately, I couldn't access the brake. So if it still doesn't run once I get the clutch together, I may have to dig deeper into the saw body.
> 
> Do those primer bulbs leak when they crack? Mind seems to be "OK" right now.



Yea, don't run it without the clutch drum in place.  It the primer bulb is cracked, your carb will be sucking air along with gas and run very lean or not at all.  Replacements are cheap and available at Lowes and HD.  Pretty much a generic part.


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## Skier76 (May 14, 2009)

Well, I gave it the ol' "college try". I put a new plug in, got the clutch drum on and it still stalls out. I looked a bit more closely at the unit it it looks like something is wrong with the brake. I hate to say it, but it's just not worth my time to tear the entire thing apart just to get to the brake. I appreciate everyone's help with this. I now have a better understanding of how these small two stroke carbs work. Even though I didn't get it running, I still took a few bits of knowlege away from this experience. Thanks again guys.


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## kevin j (May 14, 2009)

not mean so sound smart a.. here, but is the brake simply set on? The front handle obviously, but some saws have an additional interlock on top of the rear handle, such that releasing the grip sets the brake.

k


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## Skier76 (May 14, 2009)

No worries at all Kevin. I probably should have gone into more detail. It looks like whatever connects the brake lever to the brake unit is broken. So, I think there's no way to operate the brake now without taking the unit apart.


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## Gooserider (May 15, 2009)

It shouldn't be that difficult to get the clutch hub off to get to the brake...  Essentially the procedure is to pull the spark plug and stuff some sort of soft material into  the hole (lots of people use the starter rope, it's handy and works good) to act as a piston stop and keep the crank from turning, then figure out a way to get a wrench on the hub - typically it is supposed to take an "official special factory tool" but often this can be improvised by putting a couple of bits of metal in the slots / holes where the official tool should go, or possibly just putting a strap wrench around the outside of the entire hub.

The other gotcha to remember is that most saws will have a LEFT HAND THREAD on the clutch, so you need to turn it backwards to remove it...

As a side note, if you do decide to give up on it, your best bet for getting rid of it is probably to throw an add up on the right section of Arboristsite - they have many members there that collect older saws and will pay more for them that you might expect...

Gooserider


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## Skier76 (May 15, 2009)

Gooserider, great info there! I did notice on the clutch, there was an arrow. As you mentioned, it was probably noting what direction to turn it to remove it. 

I actually sold the saw yesterday. Put an ad on craigslist Wed night, a guy grabbed it yesterday for $20. I told him to let me know if he's able to get it running or not.


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## tjnamtiw (May 15, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> Gooserider, great info there! I did notice on the clutch, there was an arrow. As you mentioned, it was probably noting what direction to turn it to remove it.
> 
> I actually sold the saw yesterday. Put an ad on craigslist Wed night, a guy grabbed it yesterday for $20. I told him to let me know if he's able to get it running or not.



Wow, I wished you lived near me!  I would have snapped that up for $20!  We fly large scale model airplanes (hence my avatar of 90" wingspan Corsair) and use those engines for some of the planes.  Now your biggest worry is that he calls you and says he pulled the cord and it runs like a dream.   )


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## Skier76 (May 15, 2009)

Those planes must move with saw engines! 

I thought $20 was pretty fair; the saw certainly needed some work. I'd rather sell it quickly at a lower "fair" price than try to rip someone off just so I can make a few more bucks. 

HA! I guess there's always a chance of him e-mailing me that he put in a new fuel filter and it runs like a dream. But I have a feeling he'll have to tear into a bit and free up that brake. I really do hope he gets it running though. The saw was in good shape over all. I just hate throwing away stuff that doesn't work...but could work. I had an old 22" lawn mower that the front wheels literally fell off of. I had a guy pick it up yesterday for free. He needed the engine. I told him the engine smoked and used a bit of oil, but it still worked. I'd rather see someone get some life out of it.


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## tjnamtiw (May 15, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> Those planes must move with saw engines!
> 
> I thought $20 was pretty fair; the saw certainly needed some work. I'd rather sell it quickly at a lower "fair" price than try to rip someone off just so I can make a few more bucks.
> 
> HA! I guess there's always a chance of him e-mailing me that he put in a new fuel filter and it runs like a dream. But I have a feeling he'll have to tear into a bit and free up that brake. I really do hope he gets it running though. The saw was in good shape over all. I just hate throwing away stuff that doesn't work...but could work. I had an old 22" lawn mower that the front wheels literally fell off of. I had a guy pick it up yesterday for free. He needed the engine. I told him the engine smoked and used a bit of oil, but it still worked. I'd rather see someone get some life out of it.



Yea, I don't blame you for selling it cheap.  I, like a lot of people here (I suspect) just love to tinker with things.  I have a 52 cc engine in a 1/3 scale WW One plane that weighs 27 pounds.  That has a 9 foot wingspan.  It's a fun hobby but unfortunately it's tough to get younger people interested because they have some many other things to do and play with.


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## Skier76 (May 15, 2009)

My problem with hobbies: Too many, not enough time, not enough money.  :lol:


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## tjnamtiw (May 15, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> My problem with hobbies: Too many, not enough time, not enough money.  :lol:



Amen to that.  When I retired, I thought I would have all the time in the world for my hobbies but now I don't seem to have any time at all


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## Skier76 (May 16, 2009)

Well, at least I know I'll still be active trying to participate in all my hobbies in 30-35 years! HA!


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## tjnamtiw (May 16, 2009)

Skier76 said:
			
		

> Well, at least I know I'll still be active trying to participate in all my hobbies in 30-35 years! HA!



I so looked forward to retirement swearing that I would never have a dull day because I had so many hobbies that would keep me busy.  As it is, once you are retired, you become so busy with 'stuff' that you have no time for hobbies and wonder how in the world you ever had time to do anything when you were working.  It is amazing....


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