# Which of these 2 splitters?



## rudysmallfry (Jun 9, 2018)

I've got it down to the Countyline 25 ton or the Dirty Hands 22 ton which is currently on sale for $999. Countyline has more power, but the Dirty Hands comes with the catcher. Looks like they are both the Kohler engine. Looks like they both do the job in about 11 seconds per split and have the vertical option. 

I only split about a cord or two a year, but I'm getting a lot of stuff I just can't get through by hand and renting is not cheap. I do have to wheel this down (and back up) a slight incline to get to where the wood is, so I need to take weight into account. I was able to pull an Ariens 22 ton up today, but just barely. Most of the rounds I have are under 24" diameter, so I should be good with either one for size. 

Any others I should be looking at? I'm trying to stay under $1,000.


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## Medic21 (Jun 10, 2018)

I bought a 25 ton from rural king.  I believe it is a speeco knock off as is the dirty hand tools brand.  

What motors are on them?

I looked at a 30 ton also but in order to get that it was slow.  If all your doing is a half cord I’d look used also.


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## rudysmallfry (Jun 10, 2018)

I thought about going used, but I'm weary of buying somebody else's  problem. The only reason I'm looking is, I waited over a month to borrow a splitter only to finally get it and it doesn't run. I then plunked down $100 rent one only to get it home with the same result. It boggles the mind that people buy stuff so expensive and don't take care of them. I was looking at maybe getting a cheaper compact unit, but I'm concerned it would be overfaced with the bigger knotty stuff. 

I'm not good with engines. Looks like the Countyline is Kohler 6.5HP with 16qt hydraulic capacity. The Dirty Hand Tools is 9.5HP with 8gal hydraulic capacity. Are those as night and day as they sound??


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## Dobish (Jun 11, 2018)

i love my dht 22.


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## Medic21 (Jun 12, 2018)

rudysmallfry said:


> I thought about going used, but I'm weary of buying somebody else's  problem. The only reason I'm looking is, I waited over a month to borrow a splitter only to finally get it and it doesn't run. I then plunked down $100 rent one only to get it home with the same result. It boggles the mind that people buy stuff so expensive and don't take care of them. I was looking at maybe getting a cheaper compact unit, but I'm concerned it would be overfaced with the bigger knotty stuff.
> 
> I'm not good with engines. Looks like the Countyline is Kohler 6.5HP with 16qt hydraulic capacity. The Dirty Hand Tools is 9.5HP with 8gal hydraulic capacity. Are those as night and day as they sound??



Hydraulics are a different animal.  Two stage pumps make that 22ton unit do things a 20 year old single stage 30 ton or bigger would struggle with and it will do it faster.  Two stage pumps do run slower when they go into that second stage though but generally cycle faster with no load.  GPMs of the pump will effect your performance more than hp of the motor.  Higher gpm the faster the no load travel will be.  I went with a mid sized unit after trying them out because it was 4 or 5 seconds faster cycling and in a 8-10 hour day that adds up.  

Hydraulic capacity is another thing.  8 gallons vs 4 gallons is a huge difference.  The larger capacity will run cooler and heat is bad on O-rings and seals, the most common failures next to hoses.  My splitter gets so hot on summer days you can’t touch metal parts in the hydraulics without gloves.  

Both those units will give you years of use if maintained properly.


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## Ashful (Jun 12, 2018)

Can post the specs on both?  There’s no magic to be had, here.  It comes down to the specs and ergonomics.

1.  Cylinder bore size
2.  Pump GPM (or make/model)
3.  Pump rated pressure (or make/model)
4.  Engine displacement (cc’s)

Given the same 11 GPM and 16 GPM pumps that all of these units use, I’m not sure how you’d get 25 tons at 11 seconds cycle time, it looks suspiciously like underhanded specmanship.

4” bore at 3500 psi would be 22 tons
5” bore at 3500 psi would be 34 tons

There are 4.5” cylinders, but they’re uncommon.  There are also pumps that bypass below 3500 psi, but also less common.

Most cylinders are 24” stroke, and most pumps are rated at 3000 rpm, so:

4” at 11 GPM would be 14.25 seconds at 3000 rpm
4” at 16 GPM would be 9.81 seconds at 3000 rpm
5” at 11 GPM would be 22.27 seconds at 3000 rpm
5” at 16 GPM would be 15.32 seconds at 3000 rpm

My 4” TSC log splitter (Huskee, predecessor of CountyLine) was rated 11 seconds.  They did this by spinning the pump beyond rated speed (I never tach’d it, but the old motor was rated 3600 rpm), so that pump rated 14.25 seconds could cycle the cylinder 20% faster = 11.88 seconds.  They somehow call that 11, not 12... specmanship.


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## rudysmallfry (Jun 13, 2018)

Well this is bizarre. I can no longer find the DHT splitter listed on the website. I did find a new candidate, the Champion. Specs on both are below. 

County Line Specs

*Specs:*
196 cc* Kohler Engine (* as rated by engine manufacturer)
25-ton splitting force**
11.5 second cycle time**
Vertical and horizontal operation
Auto-return valve
Two-stage 14 Gallon Per Minute pump
DOT-approved 4.8 in. x 8 in. wheels
Built-in log cradle holds logs up to 24-1/2 in. length
20 qt. hydraulic reservoir capacity
Warranty: 5-year residential/3-year commercial warranty on beam; 3-year material and workmanship; 2-year engine; 1-year hydraulics


Champion

*Specification* *Description*
Pump GPM: 11 GPM
Maximum Log Length: 23-13/16 in.
Fuel Capacity: 0.9 gal.
Splitting Force: 25 Tons
Product Type: Log Splitters
Hydraulic Capacity: 20 qt.
Positioning: Horizontal/Vertical
Engine Make: Champion
Product Length: 89-5/16 in.
Type: Hydraulic
Warranty: 2-Year Limited
Tire Size: 16 in.
Engine Displacement: 224 cc
Cycle Time: 12 sec.
Product Height: 44-11/16 in.
Power Type: Gas
CARB Compliant: Yes
Maximum Log Diameter: Any
Product Width: 42-7/8 in.
Brand: Champion Power Equipment
Maximum PSI: 3900 PSI
Product Weight: 429.9 lb.


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## rox3406 (Jun 13, 2018)

I have the champion. Love it fast quiet and unstoppable. Bout 2 years now no issues.


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## Ashful (Jun 14, 2018)

Got the cylinder size on that CountyLine unit?  I’m not sure how they’re getting 25 tons off a 14 GPM pump on a motor that small, but it might be possible.  Kohler used to make some of the best small engines on earth (eg K301), but I know nothing about their modern engines.  

One note on that pump, it’s not a common size.  Not that we have many two-stage pump failures around here, but after market replacements are 11 and 16 GPM.  The 11 is slower, and your motor isn’t big enough to turn a 16 GPM pump at any reasonable pressure.  So, they may have just found a new sweet spot for that little 196cc motor, in that 14 GPM pump.

The 11 GPM works on the Champion, because it only has a 4 inch cylinder.  Note, Champion is one of the few honest about their cycle time, here.  Spinning an 11 GPM pump at 3600 rpm on a 4 inch cylinder will give you something just a few milliseconds shy of 12 seconds, but Speeco/TSC/Huskee badged mine 11 seconds.  I harp on this, because cycle time is the most important single factor in a splitter, IMO.  Any splitting force beyond 22 tons is a total waste of cost and machine weight, for my needs, I want speed when I’m trying to plow thru cordage.

One final note, if you go CountyLine, and want to swap that pump in the future, I can show you how to get 8-9 seconds out of that machine.  Bigger pump, bigger motor, and bigger hoses is all it takes.  Unfortunately, the next leap to 6 seconds would take new ports in the tank and a custom cylinder, so I stopped in the 8 second range.


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## rudysmallfry (Jun 14, 2018)

On the Countyline, all is says for the cylinder is 4" cylinder with 24" stroke.


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## Ashful (Jun 15, 2018)

rudysmallfry said:


> On the Countyline, all is says for the cylinder is 4" cylinder with 24" stroke.


Well, that tells us all we need to know about the honesty of their specs.  There’s no way to meet their performance spec’s with that set of hardware.  Even ignoring system losses, it would require 3981 PSI to develop 25 tons force with a 4 inch cylinder, yet most components in that system are likely only rated 2500 - 3000 psi.  Also, you have to wonder what the step-down GPM is, to allow a 196cc motor to generate close to 4000 PSI.  I call bullshit on the whole thing.

That doesn’t mean it’s a bad splitter, or even worse than the Champion, but there is no way they’re meeting all of those spec’s with that hardware.  I suspect that’s what all the asterisks are about, in their spec.

I have a Huskee, which is TSC’s brand Speeco splitter, likely almost identical to that CountyLine unit.  It gets the job done, but I can tell you it does not meet the spec’s TSC put on it, particularly on cycle time.  It looks like they are just pushing the BS a step farther, in the specs on this newer unit.


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## rudysmallfry (Jun 19, 2018)

Honestly, all I care about is, if the thing runs well, splits the wood and doesn't break down a lot. If wood splitters require lots of engine knowledge, they are definitely not a good fit for me. I'm good at checking my fluids, but fixing isn't my thing.


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## Ashful (Jun 19, 2018)

rudysmallfry said:


> Honestly, all I care about is, if the thing runs well, splits the wood and doesn't break down a lot. If wood splitters require lots of engine knowledge, they are definitely not a good fit for me. I'm good at checking my fluids, but fixing isn't my thing.



“A lot”?   Honestly, if you check and change fluids and filters on the recommended schedule, your splitter should never break down, not for at least a dozen years, at which time some of the rubber may need attention.  The only “repair” my Speeco TSC splitter ever needed was to have the motor mount bolts tightened, and I likely have close to 50 cords thru it.


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## rudysmallfry (Jun 19, 2018)

I'm weary of them breaking down since the last two I have attempted to borrow from friends have failed to start or quickly sputter out on the first try. It got me wondering how high or low maintenance they were overall. In the time I've spent waiting for either friend to fix their splitter, I could have split all the wood I have a few times over. If I knew I would do it all in one day, I would just rent one, but I don't work that quickly and rentals aren't cheap. Considering the resale value on splitters, I'd think buying is the better way to go.


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## Ashful (Jun 19, 2018)

If you can spare the cash, and have a place to store it out of the weather, then buying is definitely a good way to go for anyone heating a home with wood.


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## Medic21 (Jun 21, 2018)

rudysmallfry said:


> I'm weary of them breaking down since the last two I have attempted to borrow from friends have failed to start or quickly sputter out on the first try. It got me wondering how high or low maintenance they were overall. In the time I've spent waiting for either friend to fix their splitter, I could have split all the wood I have a few times over. If I knew I would do it all in one day, I would just rent one, but I don't work that quickly and rentals aren't cheap. Considering the resale value on splitters, I'd think buying is the better way to go.



As with any small gas engine equipment I would ask what kind of fuel did they use.  Did they do anything when they put it away for months at a time or just shove it in the head or park it out by the wood pile?   Small gas engines are very simple and very reliable if maintained.  All of them I get in my shop to work on from weed eaters, chainsaws, lawnmowers, etc almost always go back to ethenol fuel and not storing proper.  It’s bad enough I stock Stihl, Husky, troybilt, and toro carbs every spring and fall.

Non ethanol fuel especially in 2 strokes, changing oil, and routine maintenance will make most equipment last longer than you.


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## VirginiaIron (Jun 23, 2018)

I now have a fuel cut off valve on all my gassers. I run the carb dry and it starts right up when I need it.


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## Ashful (Jun 23, 2018)

VirginiaIron said:


> I now have a fuel cut off valve on all my gassers. I run the carb dry and it starts right up when I need it.



Gotta drain the bowl, too.  I actually shop OPE by whether it has a drain cock on the bowl, or not.  Critical on things like backup generators.


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## billfred (Jun 26, 2018)

I just purchased the Countyline 25 Ton.  One benefit vs. the DHT is it can take a longer log 26" vs 25", not sure if that matters. 
Not all DHT 22 ton come with the log catcher.  Lowes does not, Home Depot does.  I ordered a log catcher for my Countyline for $50.  The log catcher does seem like a must.


The DHT and CountyLine both use a 196CC Kohler engine

Here's some additional specs on the Countyline...
Hydraulic Capacity ............................................ 4 Gallon
Hydraulic Cylinder .......................... 4 1/8” x 24 1/2”
Max. Pressure ...........................3800 PSI

Good luck.


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## brenndatomu (Jun 26, 2018)

I see the CL 25T at TSC here locally is $899 now...was on sale at $799 a few weeks back.
I have owned a Champion 23T for 5-6 years now...no problems with it.


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## johneh (Jun 27, 2018)

It breaks down to this Buy the one you like and can afford 
They all do the same thing


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## billfred (Jun 27, 2018)

But then we have nothing to argue about.


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## johneh (Jun 27, 2018)

If he were in Canada I would tell him to buy Surge Master 
Costs a little more . Has a 5 year warranty . A Honda engine 
and is built in Canada . Cycle time who cares I'm retired 
and it helps fill in the time and I enjoy all aspects of fire wood


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## VirginiaIron (Oct 1, 2018)

rox3406 said:


> I have the champion. Love it fast quiet and unstoppable. Bout 2 years now no issues.


I just purchased a Champion 27T from HD on Friday. I was initially thinking DHT, but the Champion won out.


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## Zack R (Oct 1, 2018)

Having a splitter would be nice but if I was only doing a cord or two a year like you mentioned I'd just noodle the tough rounds in half, then split by hand.


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## Todd67 (Oct 31, 2018)

Rudysmallfry, what log splitter did you end up buying?

I've had my County line 22 ton splitter for 6 years and it has been flawless. They dropped the 22 ton for the 25 ton since then. I have split over 20 cord of wood with it (not face cord, but full cord). All I heat my 2-story house with is a Fisher Mama Bear wood stove, and we have some brutal Winters in northern NY.


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## rowerwet (Oct 31, 2018)

I have the DHT 22 ton, it came with one table, I added the closer table.




I mounted it like this on purpose to protect the filter casting from dropped rounds.




The only issue I run into now is if the log is irregular shaped, it can catch the lip on the new table.

I got a good look at the champion splitter at the depot yesterday, it doesn't look to be built as heavy as the DHT, and that upside down filter looks like it's begging to get nailed by a dropped round


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## VirginiaIron (Oct 31, 2018)

If I was using any one of those tubular designs, including the Champion, I would put sheet metal over the top because the splits get caught in the openings and its only a matter of time before the rack gets racked.


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## VirginiaIron (Nov 5, 2018)

rudysmallfry said:


> I'm weary of them breaking down since the last two I have attempted to borrow from friends have failed to start or quickly sputter out on the first try. It got me wondering how high or low maintenance they were overall. In the time I've spent waiting for either friend to fix their splitter, I could have split all the wood I have a few times over. If I knew I would do it all in one day, I would just rent one, but I don't work that quickly and rentals aren't cheap. Considering the resale value on splitters, I'd think buying is the better way to go.



I would recommend purchasing a splitter. One guy constantly challanged me about owning a splitter over renting one. I said I enjoy the choice of splitting wood when I WANT to split the wood. Sometimes ill start splitting, someone comes over and I stop to enjoy the company. Sometimes I start splitting and decide that I really want to do something else, sok I stop splitting. He constantly complained about how taxing it was to pick up the splitter, split the wood, and return the splitter in the time frame alotted. He finally purchased one.

I would say the biggest challenge to keeping the operation reliable is to keep the carburetor empty when not in use. I shut my fuel off and run the engine until it stops. Some say do not use ethanol fuel and you won't have any problems, ok. That's ok If you chemically test your fuel to verify the supply integrity and the alcohol content.


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## VirginiaIron (Nov 5, 2018)

Ashful said:


> Gotta drain the bowl, too.  I actually shop OPE by whether it has a drain cock on the bowl, or not.  Critical on things like backup generators.



My carburetor s have the plug but a drain valve might be best. To date, I have not had any problems with my practice. That equipment without EPA tanks need to run dry before storage.


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## firefighterjake (Nov 5, 2018)

9 years in with my splitter . . . using ethanol fuel . . . not draining it . . . although I do use a long term fuel stabilizer when I know it's not going to be used for awhile. So far, so good . . . no issues whatsoever.


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## Todd67 (Nov 5, 2018)

Same here, 87 octane ethanol fuel with fuel stabilizer. It starts on the first pull 98% of the time (Kohler engine). Never drain my tank or fuel lines.


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## rowerwet (Nov 6, 2018)

I scrounge around the area, often I get the 4 foot plus stuff others have passed on. 
I bring the splitter to the site,  noodle it into quarters and haul out splits, last trip of the day I tow the splitter home


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## Ashful (Nov 7, 2018)

You guys just reminded me, I have the same pump gas sitting in my splitter from last spring.  Probably never even ran it dry, I hadn’t intended to let it sit for months, but Mother Nature had other plans in mind.

Better get out there and check on it, before the three solid days of splitting i have planned for Thanksgiving weekend.


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## Todd67 (Nov 7, 2018)

Since winter is upon some of us now, what weight hydraulic oil do you use in your splitter when the mercury dips below 32 degrees?


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## rowerwet (Nov 8, 2018)

One other thing that could be an issue on the Champion splitter,  it runs a Delhi pump, the same kind I had on my predator splitter. 
The threads for the hoses are metric, and it is hard to find much about them.
My predator splitter ended up only running in the low speed high pressure mode all the time, and i couldn't figure out how to fix or replace it.


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## Bushfire (Nov 30, 2018)

I'm finally in the market for a log splitter as I have around 4 cord to split on hand and even though I love to split with my fiskars, I need to get through this stuff quickly and renting just doesn't seem to be cost effective if I plan on continuing to heat with wood for the foreseeable future.  I always held back on purchasing because of maintenance (and upfront costs of purchasing), but now that seems more manageable than the 4 cords of scrounged wood sitting on my driveway and the hassle of having to pick-up and return a splitter for around $100 a day.  Gosh, I only need to use it for 10-12 days and it's paid for itself. 

I'm looking at the DH 25 ton model at Lowe's and my question is whether that will handle most of what I throw at it?  I'm in PA and split a variety of hardwoods that include walnut (which I know it won't have a problem with), ash, maple, cherry, oaks, hickory, osage, birch, locust, etc.  I like the idea of the quicker return on the "smaller"model, so I'm just curious if people in the NE are happy with what the DH 25 ton model is able to do for them on NE hardwoods.

Thanks!


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## Ashful (Nov 30, 2018)

I have been thru a few splitters, including hot-rodding my own, and I am also in PA, burning mostly oak, with some ash, walnut and maple.  Here is what I have learned:

1.  Go with a 4” cylinder.  Depending on the pump and break-out valve used, this will be rated 20-25 tons.  I have never run into anything my 22-ton (4” @ 3500 psi) rig won’t bust.  

2.  Go for speed over capacity.  The 28- and 35-ton (5” and 6” cylinder) machines are just silly for the average firewood splitter, since they’re almost always way slower than any 4” machine, and the extra force is totally unneeded by most.  

3. If you’re going to have to move it around your splitting are, as I do, consider weight and balance.  Again, this favors a lighter design.  

4.  Avoid the fast 3.5” machines.  These are awesome for guys never facing oak or elm, but they just don’t have the required force for our PA hardwoods. That said, always go for the fastest machine you can afford, at 4” and up.  

5.  Electric start is very nice, if you use it in cold weather.  Also, choke is nicer than primer bulb alone, in cold weather.  Remember, you’re pulling a 11 or 16 gpm pump full of cold hydro fluid, when you’re trying to start this thing, and the engine will be under very high starting load when that fluid is cold.


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## VirginiaIron (Nov 30, 2018)

rowerwet said:


> One other thing that could be an issue on the Champion splitter,  it runs a Delhi pump, the same kind I had on my predator splitter.
> The threads for the hoses are metric, and it is hard to find much about them.
> My predator splitter ended up only running in the low speed high pressure mode all the time, and i couldn't figure out how to fix or replace it.


According to the pump specs it is running at 4100 psi.


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## rowerwet (Dec 4, 2018)

Bushfire said:


> I'm finally in the market for a log splitter as I have around 4 cord to split on hand and even though I love to split with my fiskars, I need to get through this stuff quickly and renting just doesn't seem to be cost effective if I plan on continuing to heat with wood for the foreseeable future.  I always held back on purchasing because of maintenance (and upfront costs of purchasing), but now that seems more manageable than the 4 cords of scrounged wood sitting on my driveway and the hassle of having to pick-up and return a splitter for around $100 a day.  Gosh, I only need to use it for 10-12 days and it's paid for itself.
> 
> I'm looking at the DH 25 ton model at Lowe's and my question is whether that will handle most of what I throw at it?  I'm in PA and split a variety of hardwoods that include walnut (which I know it won't have a problem with), ash, maple, cherry, oaks, hickory, osage, birch, locust, etc.  I like the idea of the quicker return on the "smaller"model, so I'm just curious if people in the NE are happy with what the DH 25 ton model is able to do for them on NE hardwoods.
> 
> Thanks!



I'm in MA on the NH border not far from the ocean. 
I scrounge 6 cords or more a year, and don't get much choice on what I take.
Mostly I'm dealing with maple  and oak.
I had a predator 20 ton that split everything I ever threw at it for years, then moved on to a DHT 22 ton half beam.
The wedge on the DHT  keeps it from plowing through some stuff the predator never hesitated with , mostly because the predator is a 2 way split model, so it has a narrow blade instead of a blade followed by a thick wedge. 
This doesn't stop me, I just have to take smaller bites around the edges of bigger rounds.

Tonnage is a very inflated rating anyway,  if you do the math on cylinder diameter and pump volume, it becomes clear that most splitters could never hit the tonnage on the label.

The 25 ton should be plenty if the 22 ton can handle 4 foot diameter yard maples with tough twisted grain and knots


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## velvetfoot (Dec 4, 2018)

On my place, I tow it with my lawn tractor.

Plus, I use a trailer dolly.
https://www.harborfreight.com/600-lbs-heavy-duty-trailer-dolly-60533.html


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## Woodsplitter67 (Dec 7, 2018)

Bushfire said:


> I'm finally in the market for a log splitter as I have around 4 cord to split on hand and even though I love to split with my fiskars, I need to get through this stuff quickly and renting just doesn't seem to be cost effective if I plan on continuing to heat with wood for the foreseeable future.  I always held back on purchasing because of maintenance (and upfront costs of purchasing), but now that seems more manageable than the 4 cords of scrounged wood sitting on my driveway and the hassle of having to pick-up and return a splitter for around $100 a day.  Gosh, I only need to use it for 10-12 days and it's paid for itself.
> 
> I'm looking at the DH 25 ton model at Lowe's and my question is whether that will handle most of what I throw at it?  I'm in PA and split a variety of hardwoods that include walnut (which I know it won't have a problem with), ash, maple, cherry, oaks, hickory, osage, birch, locust, etc.  I like the idea of the quicker return on the "smaller"model, so I'm just curious if people in the NE are happy with what the DH 25 ton model is able to do for them on NE hardwoods.
> 
> Thanks!


I have used different splitters over the years. I now have 2 DHT splitters. One is the 22 the other is the 27 ton.. i like the 22 ton. Its my go to splitter. Quality is good, they work hard, the 22 easily goes throuth 36in stuff. I like the wedge design, i think it makes a big difference in how well it splits.. just my .02


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## rowerwet (Dec 24, 2018)

VirginiaIron said:


> According to the pump specs it is running at 4100 psi.


Splitter pumps have two sets of gears in the pump, one puts out high flow, low pressure , it moves the ram when unloaded.
The other set of gears is low flow high pressure.
There is a spring loaded bypass that unloads the high flow side when max PSI is hit, putting the low flow side to work, usually for the initial crack when the split starts. 
You'll know this is working when you notice the ram hesitate before pushing into the log

Mine stuck in slow mode and I took the pump apart without finding the issue


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## VirginiaIron (Dec 24, 2018)

rowerwet said:


> ......You'll know this is working when you notice the ram hesitate before pushing into the log. ... Mine stuck in slow mode and I took the pump apart without finding the issue


My regular splitter has no noticeable hesitation from fast to slow. I've seen this hesitation and it seems odd. My Champion has a slight hesitation that I do not like.


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## Ashful (Dec 24, 2018)

VirginiaIron said:


> My regular splitter has no noticeable hesitation from fast to slow. I've seen this hesitation and it seems odd. My Champion has a slight hesitation that I do not like.



How quickly can you shift gears?  [emoji851]

Hesitation may not be the best word, as most likely just slow down when they hit an obstacle that causes the bypass to open.  My understanding was that both sides of the pump are working in parallel, such as 8 gpm + 3 gpm = 11 gpm, and that the high volume pump simply bypasses via adjustable check valve when the desired pressure is achieved.

It happens so quick on my splitter, usually just at initial contact between wedge and a tough wood, that you’ll usually have trouble noticing it.  Even when you deliberately watch for it, you’ll sometimes wonder if you’re catching it, or if it’s just your imagination that it slowed and sped back up.

Of course, I’m one of very few running 16 gpm on a 4” cylinder.  4 seconds for a 24” stroke, baby!  [emoji41]


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## Jazzberry (Dec 24, 2018)

Ashful said:


> How quickly can you shift gears?  [emoji851]
> 
> Hesitation may not be the best word, as most likely just slow down when they hit an obstacle that causes the bypass to open.  My understanding was that both sides of the pump are working in parallel, such as 8 gpm + 3 gpm = 11 gpm, and that the high volume pump simply bypasses via adjustable check valve when the desired pressure is achieved.
> 
> ...




Wow 4 seconds. Thats nuts for a hydraulic.


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## Ashful (Dec 24, 2018)

Jazzberry said:


> Wow 4 seconds. Thats nuts for a hydraulic.



It’s quick, but not unheard of.  I think Iron and Oak’s fast cycle series is that quick, but they only have a 3.5” cylinder, and they stall when they hit knotty stuff.  I’m talking stroke time, it would be 8 second full-cycle time.

I was actually aiming for 22 GPM, and 3-second stroke times, and have the motor to support that (344cc).  But I couldn’t find a 24” x 4” cylinder with SAE-10 ports, without spending a boatload more than I already had on the machine, so I decided to just try it with the standard (SAE-8) port 4 inch cylinder and a 16 GPM pump.  This also saved me having to upgrade all of the port sizes on my reservoir, as the factory reservoir ports could support 16 GPM.

If buying new today, I’d get a 35 ton machine, to get the 16 GPM pump and larger motor (hopefully at least 300cc), and then “downgrade” the cylinder from 6 inch to 4 inch, for the speed.  I don’t understand the guys running 28 or 35 ton machines for splitting firewood, they’re just stupid slow, at the expense of capacity you will never need.


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## VirginiaIron (Dec 24, 2018)

Merry Christmas you old log splitters!


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## VirginiaIron (Dec 25, 2018)

Yeah, I split about a cord today and there was no noticeable hesitation when contacting rounds.


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