# Changing hyd fluid troybilt 27 t



## Jack Fate (Nov 7, 2014)

Wish to change fluid . What do i need ? Googled it . Got nothing I can trust 

Need 3 gal.

Cheers


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## Danno77 (Nov 7, 2014)

Jack Fate said:


> Wish to change fluid . What do i need ? Googled it . Got nothing I can trust
> 
> Need 3 gal.
> 
> Cheers


Did you RTFM? I went straight to Troy Bilt's website and found it. You'll have to do the math on cost when at the store, but when I needed a little extra to add to mine I just bought the automotive transmission stuff because it was considerably cheaper in the quarts. For the whole 3 gallons it might be cheaper to buy the hydraulic stuff. It's all the same. Just make sure you follow the type the manual states. I think it's sometimes labeled as low pressure hydraulic fluid, someone verify that?


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## TreePointer (Nov 7, 2014)

As mentioned, I generally go by the manual on these things.

If you want hydraulic fluid, most manuals I've read recommend 20 weight or ISO46.  If regularly using in very cold temps, consider ATF.

Traveller® All Season Hydraulic Oil ISO 46.  Says it's "perfect for log splitters, hydraulic lifts, etc."  Well, whaddya know!


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## TreePointer (Nov 7, 2014)

Consider changing the hydraulic filter at that time, too.


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## Jack Fate (Nov 7, 2014)

TreePointer said:


> Consider changing the hydraulic filter at that time, too.



Ya changed filter yesterday, Napa 1551 if anyone's interested $12 

And I have added ATF in the past ( very old ATF) they got to many types any more

Went to TSC today and way to many choices in  hyd. Fluid .

And 2 gal/5gal sizes : ( 

May try to see if I can get a hyd fluid that works in my JD tractor and log splitter


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## Rock Crusher (Nov 8, 2014)

FYI, Baldwin BT839 or BT839-10 for 10 micron filtration, around $6.00.  Castrol ISO 46 has blue tint for some extra visibility, 5 gallon qty.


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## Whitepine2 (Nov 8, 2014)

Why change it no need unless contaminated,fluid is generally good for years don't go bad under most conditions.


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## Jack Fate (Nov 8, 2014)

Whitepine2 said:


> Why change it no need unless contaminated,fluid is generally good for years don't go bad under most conditions.



Yep ain't broke don't fix it , I am with you 

Seemed to be a bit down on power and speed 

So if someone can give me a kerosene flushing  procedure I'd be grateful 

Cheers


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## Jack Fate (Nov 8, 2014)

Jack Fate said:


> Yep ain't broke don't fix it , I am with you
> 
> Seemed to be a bit down on power and speed
> 
> ...


And did find they recommend shell 32 or micron 3 ATF or others with number32 in title

I figure a lot of different fluids will I fact work


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## Whitepine2 (Nov 11, 2014)

Jack Fate said:


> And did find they recommend shell 32 or micron 3 ATF or others with number32 in title
> 
> I figure a lot of different fluids will I fact work


It wont do any good to flush unless fluid has crud in it. If it has a filter change it this should clean any 
crap in system.Just think an auto trans. in an auto, pumps fluid for years some never change an tranny
still operates fine for thousands of miles. If running slow could be pump and or valve or could be that oil is bypassing in cylinder,low on oil it could be plugged filter all should be checked but oil is probably
the last to check.


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## bioman (Nov 11, 2014)

Jack Fate said:


> Yep ain't broke don't fix it , I am with you
> 
> Seemed to be a bit down on power and speed
> 
> ...


I would'nt flush it with anything other than hydraulic fluid. NW Ohio I would us aw32, its a 10 wt oil. I get it at napa here.


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## Jack Fate (Nov 12, 2014)

Whitepine2 said:


> It wont do any good to flush unless fluid has crud in it. If it has a filter change it this should clean any
> crap in system.Just think an auto trans. in an auto, pumps fluid for years some never change an tranny
> still operates fine for thousands of miles. If running slow could be pump and or valve or could be that oil is bypassing in cylinder,low on oil it could be plugged filter all should be checked but oil is probably
> the last to check.



My question was does anyone know the kerosene flushing procedure? 
 The pdf for my splitter states to flush with kerosene (but states to take to service) & doesn't give the procedure 

I have changed ATF in my viehicles many times & the newer cvt need changed even more

I most likely won't change the hyd fluid @this time


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## Jack Fate (Nov 12, 2014)

bioman said:


> I would'nt flush it with anything other than hydraulic fluid. NW Ohio I would us aw32, its a 10 wt oil. I get it at napa here.



Manual states flush with kerosene . 

I put ATF in it to top off after filter change & found that was a mistake (manual states don't mix types)

Tank holds 3gal but system holds 4.7gal

Currently splitter is working better after filter change.

Cheers


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## salecker (Nov 13, 2014)

Jack Fate said:


> Manual states flush with kerosene .
> 
> I put ATF in it to top off after filter change & found that was a mistake (manual states don't mix types)
> 
> ...


Don't worry about mixing oil types,i do it all the time in my equipment.
My 950 loader has had the site glass sandblasted so it's hard to look through,the AW 32 we get is clear so you cannot see the level through the glass.I add a pail of ATF every time it gets hard to see.The red ATF adds enough color to read the level.I'v had the loader over 10 yrs no problems with the pump yet.One job i had this summer was 10hrs a day,for 14 days other than a hose getting wore through no problems hydraulic related.
 Thomas


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## claydogg84 (Nov 13, 2014)

I just changed the oil in my Troy 27. I used automotive ATF as that's what mine said right on the tank and I beleive it took around 4 gallons.


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## Whitepine2 (Nov 16, 2014)

salecker said:


> Don't worry about mixing oil types,i do it all the time in my equipment.
> My 950 loader has had the site glass sandblasted so it's hard to look through,the AW 32 we get is clear so you cannot see the level through the glass.I add a pail of ATF every time it gets hard to see.The red ATF adds enough color to read the level.I'v had the loader over 10 yrs no problems with the pump yet.One job i had this summer was 10hrs a day,for 14 days other than a hose getting wore through no problems hydraulic related.
> Thomas


 This is false,you were just lucky,some oils when mixed will mix air in the oil and wont pump
  ASK ME HOW I KNOW  yes it will work when cold but when warmed up will not work. This can cause
cavitation and kill the pump I certainly affirm this fact by experience. Some will mix but why take a chance and cost $$$$$$


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## claydogg84 (Nov 16, 2014)

I agree, mixing different oils is a bad idea.


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## BrotherBart (Nov 16, 2014)

A long running debate on tractor forums that are as bad as the cat/non-cat ones here.


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## Whitepine2 (Nov 16, 2014)

BrotherBart said:


> A long running debate on tractor forums that are as bad as the cat/non-cat ones here.


 Well no doubt about it as first hand experience some will not mix I say will not mix. I got 5 gals.I will
give to anybody that wants to try it. This was-is supremo oil used by a large Co. to test hydrolic equipment best money can buy but will not mix with other oil no way.


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## salecker (Nov 17, 2014)

Whitepine2 said:


> This is false,you were just lucky,some oils when mixed will mix air in the oil and wont pump
> ASK ME HOW I KNOW  yes it will work when cold but when warmed up will not work. This can cause
> cavitation and kill the pump I certainly affirm this fact by experience. Some will mix but why take a chance and cost $$$$$$


Don't worry it does work and still works when warm,i was loading trucks with it 10 hrs a day,no breaks.Remember we aren't talking anything high tech here.Just gear pumps and cylinders.No bearings,chains,or rotating parts like cam or crankshafts.
 You probably don't believe in using ATF in power steering as well.

 That's OK,do what you feel you need.I'll keep doing what i know works,
 Thomas


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## Whitepine2 (Nov 17, 2014)

salecker said:


> Don't worry it does work and still works when warm,i was loading trucks with it 10 hrs a day,no breaks.Remember we aren't talking anything high tech here.Just gear pumps and cylinders.No bearings,chains,or rotating parts like cam or crankshafts.
> You probably don't believe in using ATF in power steering as well.
> 
> That's OK,do what you feel you need.I'll keep doing what i know works,
> Thomas


Some will work and most might but all wont. I was running in wood processor. You can do as you like 
some day you may find that you are wrong, I hope not but I learned the hard way.GOOD LUCK


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## Firewood Bandit (Nov 19, 2014)

If it is going to be exposed to cold temps, say below 30 degrees, I'd use ATF.  Mine is in a heated shop and if I changed fluid, I'd go to hydraulic fluid.


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## Jack Fate (Nov 19, 2014)

Firewood Bandit said:


> If it is going to be exposed to cold temps, say below 30 degrees, I'd use ATF.  Mine is in a heated shop and if I changed fluid, I'd go to hydraulic fluid.




OK ONE MORE TIME , I ask if anyone knew the kerosene flushing procedure 

That's all folks 

Sorry don't REALLY chose not TO BE SHORT.  

I have had enough opinions

Cheers


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## Danno77 (Nov 21, 2014)

I do not know the details on a kerosene flush technique, but I imagine it is as simple as:
1. Drain hydro fluid
2. Fill with kerosene
3. Run, but obviously not under any pressure
4. Drain kerosene
5. Refill with hydro fluid

THEN, because I wouldn't want ANY remnants of kerosene in there, I'd:
6. Run without major pressure
7. Drain hydro fluid
8. Refill with hydro fluid.

9. Report back here to tell me if it worked.


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## BrotherBart (Nov 21, 2014)

Obviously the answer is no. Nobody knows about it.


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## BrotherBart (Nov 21, 2014)

Tons of info about it if you Google "flush hydraulic system with kerosene" though.


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## mecreature (Nov 21, 2014)

I would keep on hand what the manual suggest. That way you have no problems.
I have a friend who has only changed the filter on his, works for him.


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