# Dealing with Electric Co. - Service Upgrade



## Ashful (Mar 3, 2015)

We have had trouble with our electric power supply since we moved into this house, and I'm not sure the best way to address the issue.

The newer houses in our neighborhood all seem to have a 200 kW transformer planted in their front yard, with a nice short 240V x 400A run to the house (usually as dual 200A feeds), and several of these houses are half the size of ours.  None of the utility people who have come out to mark underground wires have been able to tell me where my transformer may be, but based on the wiring they've marked out, my 240V feed seems to be headed toward a large transformer about a quarter mile up the street from my house.  We have a single 200A service feed for roughly 8000 sq.ft.

Our lights dim every time a major appliance kicks on.  With three air conditioning systems, soon to be a fourth as we expand, the lights seem to be constantly dimming and then surging in summer.  It appears to be an issue with the mains, as the whole house dims and surges together, it's not an issue of loading on individual circuits.

So, how do I approach the electric company, with the aim at getting our voltage stability corrected?  I assume the proper solution is to up-size the mains wiring, as I'd rather not have a new transformer planted in my front yard, but I fear that could easily back-fire on me.  Also, what is my responsibility, versus the electric company?  I assume it is their responsibility to provide me a constant 230V +/- 5% to the meter socket, for whatever my full load may be, and they would be responsible for any equipment upgrade required to maintain that.  Would this be correct?  Are they going to try to argue that the house size was increased after service was run, and it's therefore my responsibility to pay for a new feed?


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## Wisneaky (Mar 3, 2015)

I'm not sure in your area. I have a much smaller house than you, but when I upgraded from 60a to 200a service they didn't change me any fee for the change over to different lines and meter.


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## heat seeker (Mar 3, 2015)

Are you sure the problem is not in your house wiring? How do your next door neighbors' systems behave?

You could put a recording meter on your incoming line and monitor the voltage coming in over a period of time. A printed chart of voltage swings would certainly bolster your case.

ETA: what is your incoming voltage? You do not mention doing any voltage checks.


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## Ashful (Mar 3, 2015)

Incoming voltage varies quite a bit, heat seeker, although I don't have any equipment for conveniently logging and plotting it.  I hear people talk about the electric company installing equipment to monitor your line voltage in some situations like this, but don't know if it's anything more than talk.  Likewise on smart meters, which I may already have, as they had to replace my meter a year ago.

The neighbors don't report any similar trouble... they all have 13 kV lines running almost to their front doors, and vastly shorter 240V mains for smaller houses.

@Wisneaky, on what basis was the decision made to upgrade from 60A to 200A?  I know 60A is stupid small by today's standards, so an upgrade is almost obligatory in that case, but who initiated the request?


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## Wisneaky (Mar 3, 2015)

Joful said:


> Incoming voltage varies quite a bit, heat seeker, although I don't have any equipment for conveniently logging and plotting it.  I hear people talk about the electric company installing equipment to monitor your line voltage in some situations like this, but don't know if it's anything more than talk.  Likewise on smart meters, which I may already have, as they had to replace my meter a year ago.
> 
> The neighbors don't report any similar trouble... they all have 13 kV lines running almost to their front doors, and vastly shorter 240V mains for smaller houses.
> 
> @Wisneaky, on what basis was the decision made to upgrade from 60A to 200A?  I know 60A is stupid small by today's standards, so an upgrade is almost obligatory in that case, but who initiated the request?


I actually asked for the upgrade. I paid an electrician to install a new line from the new meter inside and had him put in new breaker box and breakers. Electric company came over and did all the outside work new meter and lines for no fee.


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## Ashful (Mar 3, 2015)

Cool.  Yes, there will be some re-configuration here, too.  This is sort of prompted by the fact that I want to upgrade one of my five sub-panels from 60A to 100A.  It's beyond absurd that we have so many large sub-panels hanging off of one 200A box, but that blame goes on prior electricians and owners.


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## peakbagger (Mar 4, 2015)

I expect its inside the home, but in most states, the utility has to supply voltage within a certain range of voltage. If the utility cant supply this, they have to upgrade the system until they can. A friend of mine had problems with his grid tied solar. It would kick out at times due to out of spec utility voltage. It took the utility weeks to figure it out all on their dime. Turned out they had equipment that was not being operated correctly and were surging the lines routinely. Some utilities are better than others so you may have to go to the public agency regulating them to get the utility motivated. The first thing they will do is install a clamp on meter and see if there are incoming sags on the voltage.


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## ironpony (Mar 4, 2015)

When I did mine here, I had to do all the trenching in the right of way from the pole to the house. They then ran 500 ft set a transformer on the corner of the property and ran to the house meter. also had to cover the cost of COPPER wire for the 1000 foot run. 400 amp coming in, split to two 200 amp panels. Good luck, yours probably came in from the closet "pole" at the time. Depending on type of wire buried "maybe AL." and how long it has been there it could be compromised. That is why I paid for copper, was hearing a lot about Al. failures when buried.


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## Ashful (Mar 4, 2015)

Yes, this is buried Al.

@peakbagger, what do you suppose in the home, other than 4' of wire from meter to main breaker, could cause the entire house to surge together?  I'm not denying there are deficiencies internal, as there are in any house of this age and size, but I can't imagine any of them tied to this problem.  Don't be afraid to get technical with me, I have an MSEE, and 20 years experience as an electrical engineer, albeit not on the utility end of things.


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## Jags (Mar 4, 2015)

I had a similar problem several years ago.  I monitored the wall voltage as I started kicking on any electrical load.  I would kick them on one at a time.  Each load dropped the voltage by a small amount until I actually got below 108V at the outlet I was testing.  I tested several outlets on different breakers with all the same results.  This basically told me I had a supply problem.  It took the linemen quite a bit of time to figure it out.  They replaced the transformer on the poll - no change (and I am the only one on the transformer).  Found out that they needed to crank up the line voltage going TOO my transformer somewhere down the road.  Cured the problems I was having.

And yes, there is a min. voltage that they are required to supply your home with.  It may change from utility to utility, but I would imagine Google has that answer.


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## ironpony (Mar 4, 2015)

my theory based on what I have personally seen done and answers I have gotten on projects over the years.

The original Al. wire was sized for the house at the time and the load was significantly less than it is now.
The Al wire has corrosion, reducing efficiency. Seen this quite often recently.
The Wire was under size for the original load, common practice by power companies, and now with the increase is significantly undersized.
I asked one time, Why do I have to run x size wire to the meter head and you run 2 sizes smaller than I have to. I was told we will worry about our wire you worry about yours.
I believe  you are seeing voltage drop due to one of the above, you need to get the utility to verify.


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## peakbagger (Mar 4, 2015)

I expect with your issues you could have a dirty/loose/corroded connection in the meter box or the main panel. An IR camera might be able to see a hot spot but unfortunately its cant see into the meter connection. Its worth chasing as a connection like that eventually can cause a fire. A recording clampon meter should tell all.

AL wire even if torqued and prepped with Nolox is still prone to bad connections and may require retorquing. I have known electricians who retorque their incoming cables every couple of years. (I dont mess with anything on the utility side of the main breaker) Utility meter boxes are supposed to be rain proof but they usually are not.


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## DBCOOPER (Mar 4, 2015)

Joful said:


> Yes, this is buried Al.
> 
> @peakbagger, what do you suppose in the home, other than 4' of wire from meter to main breaker, could cause the entire house to surge together?  I'm not denying there are deficiencies internal, as there are in any house of this age and size, but I can't imagine any of them tied to this problem.  Don't be afraid to get technical with me, I have an MSEE, and 20 years experience as an electrical engineer, albeit not on the utility end of things.



The main breaker could be causing it.


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## Ashful (Mar 4, 2015)

peakbagger said:


> I expect with your issues you could have a dirty/loose/corroded connection in the meter box or the main panel. An IR camera might be able to see a hot spot but unfortunately its cant see into the meter connection.





DBCOOPER said:


> The main breaker could be causing it.


This was my first thought, when I moved into this house, as I have seen that before.  Unfortunately, it does not appear to be the case here.  I have already used the Flir IR camera to inspect entire main box, and all temps are holding very close to room temperature.



Jags said:


> I had a similar problem several years ago.  I monitored the wall voltage as I started kicking on any electrical load.  I would kick them on one at a time.  Each load dropped the voltage by a small amount until I actually got below 108V at the outlet I was testing.  I tested several outlets on different breakers with all the same results.  This basically told me I had a supply problem.  It took the linemen quite a bit of time to figure it out.  They replaced the transformer on the poll - no change (and I am the only one on the transformer).  Found out that they needed to crank up the line voltage going TOO my transformer somewhere down the road.  Cured the problems I was having.


Same here.  They have been out three times in three years to adjust my voltage.  One day I came home, and noticed my lights were all dim.  I checked my voltage, and it was 105 at each 115V receptacle, and 208V across the mains.  They sent out a lineman who adjusted something somewhere (no where in sight of my house, which is why I think the transformer is at a great distance from my house), and the voltage came up to normal.

A few weeks later, I came home, and all my lights were blaringly bright.  Checked the voltage again, and it was running something like 265V on the mains.  Again, linemen came out, and adjusted me back to 230'ish.  A few weeks after that, dim again... they came out a third time, and this time they said they disabled the auto-ranging tap on the transformer, setting me on a fixed tap.

The nominal voltage seems to have held normal since then (haven't measured, but also haven't seen any unusual dim or bright in my lighting).  However, it still dips each time a major appliance kicks on.  In fact, each time I turn on my kitchen lights (450W), my computer UPS (completely separate circuit) screams at me.  When monitoring the mains, I can see the voltage drop each time the AC kicks on, but have no automated means of logging this.


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## Jags (Mar 4, 2015)

Everything that you are reporting still tells me it is a supply side issue.  I had to call them to the carpet to get action.
When you start throwing real numbers and quoting supply side requirements they usually quit arguing and start acting.


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## CRE10 (Mar 4, 2015)

It will depend where you are on the line and the load. I would put a voltage monitor on it for a week or so and you can see the spikes. Spikes will usually be during the night when people aren't using much power and then lows will be during the day. In rural applications being towards the end of the line will sometimes create larger spikes. Your utility company should be able to do a detailed graphed report for you. 200amp service should be more than ample for your house needs. 400amp service is for very large homes and shops.


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## Jags (Mar 4, 2015)

CRE10 said:


> 400amp service is for very large homes and shops.



I do believe that Joful's 8000 sqft home constitutes as a "very large home".


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## CRE10 (Mar 4, 2015)

Jags said:


> I do believe that Joful's 8000 sqft home constitutes as a "very large home".


Oops. I read it as 800, not 8,000. For 400 amp service we would need to know what appliances he's running.


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## Ashful (Mar 4, 2015)

CRE10 said:


> Oops. I read it as 800, not 8,000. For 400 amp service we would need to know what appliances he's running.


Well, I'm just getting the shop set up at this house, so the only major loads to date have been a few 5 ton AC compressors.  However, this is being considered more seriously now, as the shop contains several large machines, the biggest being 5hp with inrush > 100 amps.  There are numerous machines at 3 hp with inrush = 60 amps, although I'll only be running those one at a time.  I also run welders, a larger compressor, and lots of other mid-sized loads.

Yes, house is 6660 sq.ft., plus 1500 sq.ft. shop.  On summer weekends, expect to have all air conditioning units cranked, with the 5 hp table saw and big band saws cycling on and off all day.  Could get ugly.


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## Ashful (Mar 4, 2015)

CRE10 said:


> I would put a voltage monitor on it for a week or so and you can see the spikes.


Make and model of an affordable unit, please.  Any RMS voltage meter I have is manual logging (i.e. me sitting in the basement with pencil and paper.)


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## Jags (Mar 4, 2015)

Ask your power company.  After they realized that I wasn't an idiot and really did have a problem, they brought one in and recorded for 24 hours.


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## Ashful (Mar 4, 2015)

Jags said:


> Ask you power company.  After they realized that I wasn't an idiot and really did have a problem, they brought one in and recorded for 24 hours.


Cool.  Will do, but best wait for AC season to do this.  I suspect they won't see nearly as much without all the AC compressors running.  I should be getting the shop wired up by then, too.  It might be fun to see what some of these 80 - 100 year old ginormous 3 and 5 hp motors do to the mains voltage.


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## CRE10 (Mar 4, 2015)

Are you on an REC?


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## Ashful (Mar 4, 2015)

CRE10 said:


> Oops. I read it as 800, not 8,000. For 400 amp service we would need to know what appliances he's running.


BTW.... that does not seem to be a consideration here.  One local electrical contractor told me that they make the choice solely on initial square footage.



CRE10 said:


> Are you on an REC?


Nope.  The legendary PECO.


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## Redbarn (Mar 5, 2015)

Our house is not quite as big as yours but is 4000+ sq ft, early 1800s Federal. set back a quarter of a mile from the road.
We were hit by Hurricane Isobel in 2003 and our main feed was down.

Rather than mess around, I (personally, with a back hoe) dug a trench out to the pole on the corner of our property and got the utility to put in a 240V x 400 amp undergound supply. One of the best things I ever did.
It took a year for the garden to heal the scars but our formerly unreliable supply has been about storm proof.
We can turn anything on, including my welder in the workshop and the lights barely flicker.

Sometimes, you just bite the bullet and do whats right.


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## Ashful (Mar 5, 2015)

LOL... well we'll have to get under the driveway, but that's a surmountable challenge.  Tons of buried utilities on this property (a veritable spiderweb!), so I won't be doing it myself with a backhoe, as fun as that could be!

Our utility room is in the basement below our kitchen,the 1894 addition in the middle of the house.  We're going to be razing and rebuilding that addition in summer 2016, and so that might be the time to do the service upgrade.


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## jharkin (Mar 6, 2015)

I will follow what you find out with interest.  When we moved in and had the supply updated from 100A to 200A, like you they didn't change the aerial wires.  So Ive got something like 4/0 aluminum running up to the weather head and then really puny wires running from there to the utility pole.  Transformer is about 3 houses up the hill.

I had asked my electrician about that at the time and he told me the utility never changes the drop unless you really $#(*$#(*%  and they will claim their wires can be a lot skinnier because they are in free air.

In the summer when all our ACs are running an you had the dryer or the oven going as well I would at times see the voltage drop enough for the UPS to buzz... But over the years we have been moving loads off the electric (replaced elec oven with gas),  tightening up the house has let me get away with one less AC, and we switched most of the lighting to LED that doesn't dim as visibly in minor undervolts. So it doesn't seem to be so bad anymore.- except for those summer days when the entire grid is browned out.

That and I got tired of replacing UPS batteries that keep puking out every 3 years and just left it disconnected last time... Maybe my power is still bad and I just dont notice.


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## woodgeek (Mar 7, 2015)

Just a random factoid.  When I bought my house it had an old 100A breaker box, which I upgraded to a 200A box when I put in my HP.

some observations:
1) before (100A), no dimming lights, afterward (200A) lights blinked when the HP kicked on.
2) my transformer is >1/4 mi away away serving 10 houses or so.
3) I expected the aerial lines to get upgraded by the utility...nope.  The utility uses one gauge for residential.
4) My wiring up to the weatherhead was replaced and upsized.

I was kinda miffed about the blinking, and some hard starts on the HP, kinda thinking along the lines of Joful, how do I fix this???

Resolution:
--The crimp connectors tying my wires to the utilities wires at the weatherhead were done incorrectly and/or with substandard parts.  One leg had a weak connection.
--this was discovered (4 years later) when half of the circuits in my house 'browned out', while the other circuits were 100%.  The dead side was getting some power through unhappy 240V loads.... 
--I diagnosed the problem (one leg disconnected, on the grid side of my box), and after explaining the problem to the power co (like 4 times, since they don't expect such info from a homewowner), they sent out a guy who had it diagnosed and fixed in ~5 mins, free of charge (since he agreed to call the connector part of the utilities equipment).
--two new solid connectors...no blinkies.  EVER.

Bottom line: Joful, you could just have 1 or more weak connections between the grid and your house.  Not too hard to find for a person with the right equipment.  Instead of calling the co asking for a new transformer, you could complain that you are getting intermittent brownouts (perhaps an exaggeration) and you need them to inspect their connections. 

At the very least they can measure your voltage at your box, and at the wires on the street....if they're different...you have a weak connection.  If the street voltage is low....then maybe they need to add a transformer.


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## CaptSpiff (Mar 8, 2015)

woodgeek said:


> ... they (Power Co) sent out a guy who had it diagnosed and fixed in ~5 mins, free of charge (since he agreed to call the connector part of the utilities equipment).



What you had is referred to as "flicker" or "part lights". Using those words usually gets a service tech dispatched within 24 hrs if there is no inclement weather. Those service techs have no financial incentive to blow you off, but they also have a half dozen calls pending after you, so if it's on your side of the weather head, then it's between you & your electrician.

In an overhead distribution system, typically you own the Service wire from the panel to the meter pan, the meter pan, and the Service wire to the Weather Head. All commonly called the HOUSE SERVICE.
The Power Co typically owns the Meter and the "TriPlex wire" from the Weather Head to the pole and beyond. Commonly called the SERVICE DROP.
Most time they'll have a standard "service drop" installed for all homes, but if you have multiple meters or heavy equipment then they can run a heavier gauge service drop. If the service tech has a spool on the truck and a light work load he'll do it right there and then. If he won't or can't, then you need to contact the department who handles new connections. If that number is unpublished then ask any electrician. They can quickly tell you the process to get a Service Drop upgrade.
There is some risk to this later process. If the Power Co determines that they need to install equipment above and beyond standard for residential service standards, like if you were running a business with high demand load, you could be placed on a "demand charge rate" which would be very undesirable.

The bottom line for Joful is to call PECO and complain about bad "flicker" in the lights. First thing in the morning, go on the PECO web site and look to see how many customer outages are active with in 5-10 miles of the house (suburban setting). If it's only one or two then immediately call the customer service number on the bill for the flicker. You'll get on the list and likely see a service tech that day. Be ready to demonstrate the flicker complaint. Trouble shooting will be complicated as you have a buried service. If your equivalent of a weather head demarcation is at the house, it's easier and the problem will most likely be theirs. If that demarcation is somewhere at the street, or your service drop is part of several other homes, then it'll be a half day of trouble shooting. Be persistent.

PS: those 200kw pad mount transformers in front of your neighbors houses are not likely for one house. More likely they feed 2 to 4 homes. They never have an automatic voltage controlling device (just too expensive). What likely happened is a 13kv line regulator had "sticking controls" and ran to full buck or full boost. All the customers down that phase (including yourself) saw the voltage sag to 105v on one day, then 135v on another day. It usually takes more than one visit for the tech to put it in manual and consider it fixed. All my knowledge is 30 years old, but this stuff hasn't changed much.


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## burnham (Mar 8, 2015)

Try to get the utility to install a recorder on your home so they can see what's going on.  That should be free of charge and a good place to start.  
 Some utilities own the underground wires right up to your meter socket, in other areas those wires are owned by the homeowner.  If the transformer is not on your property, you should have some kind of secondary pedestal or splice box. It's unusual for the wires feeding the house to cross roads or property lines without there being a splice box.  It sounds like your service could be undersized, but it's hard to say without knowing the actual load on the house.  To upgrade your service you may need to upsize some or all of those wires, possibly out of your pocket.   As long as the wiring you own now is sized properly (including the wiring up to the place you're checking voltage) there is no way you should be getting voltages in the low 100's or into the 130's.  You should have 120 on each leg, plus or minus six volts.  With 5 AC units and some equipment that has large loads, I'm sure you and whoever else is fed off your transformer will have some dimming lights this summer.   If your problems were only happening when the AC compressors started, I'd say you should try a hard start kit in them, but it sounds like your problems run deeper than that.


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## Ashful (Mar 8, 2015)

burnham said:


> If the transformer is not on your property, you should have some kind of secondary pedestal or splice box. It's unusual for the wires feeding the house to cross roads or property lines without there being a splice box.


I suspect these wires were laid in 1986, when this 78-acre farm was converted to a development, and they put the new road in.  At that time, this property was pared down to about 23 acres, and the transformer up the road would have been right on the property line.  The property has since been subdivided several more times, so it's very likely I have a single run crossing all of those subdivisions.



burnham said:


> It sounds like your service could be undersized, but it's hard to say without knowing the actual load on the house.


I do believe that is very likely.  The house was expanded dramatically in 1994, and I do not believe the service was upgraded.  We have since electrified another 1800 sq.ft., and again, no service upgrade.  The house also did not have central AC at the time the service was installed.  However, we're seeing voltage drops at utilization well below 200 amps, so assuming the wires were properly sized to the 200A service, there may also be some other problem.  It would not be hard to imagine corroded connections on a 1980's (or potentially older) underground service runs.



burnham said:


> As long as the wiring you own now is sized properly (including the wiring up to the place you're checking voltage) there is no way you should be getting voltages in the low 100's or into the 130's.  You should have 120 on each leg, plus or minus six volts.  With 5 AC units and some equipment that has large loads, I'm sure you and whoever else is fed off your transformer will have some dimming lights this summer.   If your problems were only happening when the AC compressors started, I'd say you should try a hard start kit in them, but it sounds like your problems run deeper than that.


Thanks.  Yes, I agree with everything you say here.  One thing I didn't expressly disclose (guess I assume everyone on the forum already knew), is that I'm an electrical engineer.  So, my guess at the source of the problem is a fairly well educated one!


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## Ashful (Mar 8, 2015)

@CaptSpiff:  Excellent advice thru your whole post.  I should probably call them as soon as the temperatures are at a safe point to fire up the AC units.  Any idea on the temperature required?  I know a standard residential AC unit should not be started in freezing weather.



CaptSpiff said:


> PS: those 200kw pad mount transformers in front of your neighbors houses are not likely for one house. More likely they feed 2 to 4 homes. They never have an automatic voltage controlling device (just too expensive). What likely happened is a 13kv line regulator had "sticking controls" and ran to full buck or full boost. All the customers down that phase (including yourself) saw the voltage sag to 105v on one day, then 135v on another day. It usually takes more than one visit for the tech to put it in manual and consider it fixed. All my knowledge is 30 years old, but this stuff hasn't changed much.


There's a mix here.  The one at the end of my cul-de sac feeds two homes.  The neighbor behind me has his own (I literally watched them set it when they built the house last year), as does my next door neighbor (he watched them set it for him when he built his house).  Our neighborhood is larger homes (one across the street is over 12,000 sq.ft.) with very long driveways (300 - 1000 ft. off the street), which probably supports them setting individual transformers closer to the house(s).


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## CaptSpiff (Mar 8, 2015)

Joful said:


> @ Our neighborhood is larger homes (one across the street is over 12,000 sq.ft.) with very long driveways (300 - 1000 ft. off the street), which probably supports them setting individual transformers closer to the house(s).




Wow, I don't think I've ever seen, much less been inside, a 12,000 sq.ft. private home. I have enough trouble keeping my one bathroom home clean. :)


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## Ashful (Mar 8, 2015)

lol... I suspect they're not cleaning themselves.  Heck, they have a work crew just to put up their Xmas lights.


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## jharkin (Mar 9, 2015)

That got me to wondering - Joful are these figures the sq ft of living space or the total including basements garages, shops and outbuildings... I know you mentioned a figure above and stated that included the footage of your workshop.


Im just thinking because these really huge numbers might not be so ridiculous if they are including basements and attics and such in the calculation.  My little 1400ft2 house would be close to 3,000 if you include the basement, attic and garage in the calculation.  And this place is tiny.


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## Ashful (Mar 9, 2015)

The 12,400 across the street is off his tax assessment, never looked at what was included.  The house is the size of a hotel, with at least 6 garages, but that's as much as I know.

In my case, the number I'm quoting depends on what we're discussing.  Heated house space, not including unfinished portions of basement and attic, is 6660 sq ft.  That includes the 625 sq ft heated and attached garage.  I'm also now heating 1200 sq ft of our 1500 sq ft carriage house, so I'll sometimes quote 7200 or 7800 sq ft when we're talking about heating costs, depending on whether I'm figuring on heating the garage.

Then there's the whole issue of gross vs net sq footage.  We had a discrepancy of 1800 sq ft between the realtor (low) and bank appraiser (high), when we purchased.  So, I really only figure on the first digit being really correct, the rest debatable.


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## Don2222 (Mar 9, 2015)

Hello

When we went from 100 to 200 Amp circuit panel, the meter was the same but we had to upgrade the panel, meter socket and wires up the side of the house to the feed wires from the electric company. It cost us $3,000.00 for the interlock 50 circuit panel and new generator outlet installed outside of the garage.
See pics
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...box-in-new-circuit-panel.137937/#post-1852576

We now have all but 3 slots filled in our new 200 amp panel and I had current meters installed to monitor the draw on each leg. It is surprising how little the draw is most of the time.
*Therefore I suggest you have an electrician put his meter on the panel to monitor the voltage and current draw.*
This would prove If you are not drawing much current most of the time like many of us and your voltage is not stable causing the lights to dim, then I suggest the electric company is at fault and are not supplying the proper feed to your house. A few years ago the electric company put in a new transformer on a pole 5 feet higher to meet new guidelines and we got new TRIPLEX wires from the transformer to our home at the electric company's expense.


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