# Timberline Sharpener



## msherer (Mar 6, 2015)

Thinking about getting one of these.  I noticed the replacement carbide cutters are $20 a piece, ouch!  Anyone use something different to replace the carbide cutters or suck it up?

Matt


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## Prof (Mar 6, 2015)

I doubt that anything would work better than the stock cutters. They last a long time though. I haven't kept track of how many uses I get from one cutter, but I've only replaced it once so far. I've been using the timberline for about 3 yrs. In that time, I've cut at least 20 cords of wood. The last time I was in my Stihl dealer's shop, he asked me where I was getting my chains sharpened. He thought I was mad at him!


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## KodiakII (Mar 7, 2015)

Just don't turn em the wrong way.


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## msherer (Mar 7, 2015)

I picked up the Stihl 2in1 sharpener today.  Works pretty good but I went ahead and ordered the Timberline as well.

Matt


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 8, 2015)

The difference between the Timberline and a file guide sharpener and/or a grinding wheel sharpener like a Oregon is the cut is cold on the Timberline plus its extremely portable and accurately indexes each tooth at the preset (stock) 30 degree cutter angle.  With a file guide, no matter how good you think you are, you'll impart some rock in your stroke and/or the cutter angle will vary a bit.  With a grinder, there is a real chance of overheating the cutter and loosing the temper plus there is always the change to remove too much material and severely decrease chain life (because the cutters will only sharpen so many times and removing a lot of tooth means not to many sharpenings.

The Timberline is patterned after the now defunct Gamin sharpener which also used a tungsten carbide burr type cutter.  40 years ago I had a Gamin and subsequently lost it so when I read about their Timberline some years back, I ordered one immediately.

It's not a cure all one tool does everything sharpener.  For one thing, the smaller PICCO chains ( like are used on a top handle arborists saw) are hard to sharpen with the Timberline simply because of the size of the tooth in relationship to the size of the tool.  The Timberline is more suited to 325 or 404 chipper chain on a longer bar, where you can support the bar in a stump vise for support.

You'll still have to file the raker's occasionally.  If you have a small saw with PICCO cutters, I'd suggest getting a 12 volt sharpener like a Dremel or Oregon that runs of a car battery for a quick touch up.  That brings me to a point and that is, don't wait until the chain is dead dull to sharpen.  I'll take a break every half hour, clamp on the Timberline and do a quick touch up.  Takes 5 minutes and keeps the chain cutting quick.

With the bigger chain and bar length, the Timberline shines.

I've gotten upward of 20 sharpenings on one cutter and yes the cutters have to come from Timberline because the ends are tapered for insertion in the tooth, plus they have a milled in drive flat on the shank that engages the Timberline handle.  Stock Carbide burrs (available from companies like Enco or Production Tool, don't have a drive flat on the shank and aren't tapered to insert in the tooth, which is necessary to avoid shattering the brittle carbide cutting teeth on the burr itself, so bite the bullet and get the genuine cutters. and do not turn the cutter backward (COUNTERCLOCKWISE) when sharpening, it will immediately break off all the cutting teeth and render the cutter useless.

If you get one (and the price isn't bad considering how portable and well made the tool is), at some point you'll need a new indexing pawl (besides replacement carbide cutters for each size of chain sharpened).  The pawls eventually wear out, but it takes many, many sharpenings.

It comes in a somewhat cheesy little fitted case that holds the sharpener, a couple burrs, the drive handle and a hex key wrench for tightening the handle on the burr and some simple one page instructions.  I keep the tool and case in my tool box.

Finally, if you run 404 square tooth chipper chain, the Timberline cannot sharpen it (but then, nothing but a flat file can sharpen square tooth chipper).

It's a good tool for field or shop sharpening, compact and handy and requires no electricity plus it eliminates the rocking and irregular cut from a hand file.

Baileys has them on sale occasionally and Timberline runs specials too.  A little careful shopping can net you one for a round a 'C' note with a sharpening burr.


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## Michael Golden (Mar 8, 2015)

I have one and use it exclusively, it works the best with an out of the box chain. If you have a old chain you have been hand sharpening it with take some time getting it back. If you start with a new chain you will love it because it keeps all the teeth on the chain exactly the same, makes resharpening a breeze!


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## claydogg84 (Mar 8, 2015)

I had never seen this product before this thread. I checked out the website and watched the how to video. I am impressed but it is pretty expensive. I file sharpen now, and am capable of getting the chain sharper then when it was new, but I'm only getting maybe 4 or 5 sharpens out of it(and it takes like 30 minutes each time). Anyways, thanks for the heads up, I'll pick one of these up when I feel like spending the money.


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## ErikR (Mar 8, 2015)

claydogg84 said:


> I had never seen this product before this thread. I checked out the website and watched the how to video. I am impressed but it is pretty expensive. I file sharpen now, and am capable of getting the chain sharper then when it was new, but I'm only getting maybe 4 or 5 sharpens out of it(and it takes like 30 minutes each time). Anyways, thanks for the heads up, I'll pick one of these up when I feel like spending the money.





You might try this old discount code when you finally purchase your Timberline.....

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/timberline-chain-sharpener-group-buy.85628/

I picked one up a year or so ago and used the "hearth" code for a discount. No guarantees that it still works. Just trying to save you a few bucks....


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## claydogg84 (Mar 8, 2015)

ErikR said:


> You might try this old discount code when you finally purchase your Timberline.....
> 
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/timberline-chain-sharpener-group-buy.85628/
> 
> I picked one up a year or so ago and used the "hearth" code for a discount. No guarantees that it still works. Just trying to save you a few bucks....



Thanks, I'll give it a try.


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## claydogg84 (Mar 8, 2015)

ErikR said:


> You might try this old discount code when you finally purchase your Timberline.....
> 
> https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/timberline-chain-sharpener-group-buy.85628/
> 
> I picked one up a year or so ago and used the "hearth" code for a discount. No guarantees that it still works. Just trying to save you a few bucks....



I tried, no dice. The "hearth" code only comes up as $1.00 off. I also tried the arborist site code listed in that thread, which also didn't work. I guess I'll hold off for now as I just ordered 5 new H47 20" chains for $85 - I thought that was a pretty good deal. Thanks for trying though.


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## gregbesia (Mar 8, 2015)

I got mine about 4 weeks ago. I used the code CSSJ   $15 off. Not sure if it still works. Good luck.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 8, 2015)

claydogg84 said:


> I had never seen this product before this thread. I checked out the website and watched the how to video. I am impressed but it is pretty expensive. I file sharpen now, and am capable of getting the chain sharper then when it was new, but I'm only getting maybe 4 or 5 sharpens out of it(and it takes like 30 minutes each time). Anyways, thanks for the heads up, I'll pick one of these up when I feel like spending the money.


 
You won't be sorry (about getting one) and like your file, the Timberline sharpens the chain to a better cutting edge than factory.  I suggest wearing light leater gloves when sharpening a chain with it.  Pretty easy to cut yourself on an extremely sharp tooth. 
   I


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## KodiakII (Mar 9, 2015)

Best to protect yourself from the little razor blades called filings!  Take it from me they can be a real pain.  If you keep a bit of light oil on the cutter that will also keep them at bay.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 9, 2015)

Especially when they get in your skin folds on the backside of your knuckles....

Got my Baileys special flyrer today...no Timberline special.....


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## CRE10 (Mar 9, 2015)

SidecarFlip said:


> The difference between the Timberline and a file guide sharpener and/or a grinding wheel sharpener like a Oregon is the cut is cold on the Timberline plus its extremely portable and accurately indexes each tooth at the preset (stock) 30 degree cutter angle.  With a file guide, no matter how good you think you are, you'll impart some rock in your stroke and/or the cutter angle will vary a bit.  With a grinder, there is a real chance of overheating the cutter and loosing the temper plus there is always the change to remove too much material and severely decrease chain life (because the cutters will only sharpen so many times and removing a lot of tooth means not to many sharpenings.
> 
> The Timberline is patterned after the now defunct Gamin sharpener which also used a tungsten carbide burr type cutter.  40 years ago I had a Gamin and subsequently lost it so when I read about their Timberline some years back, I ordered one immediately.
> 
> ...


20 sharpenings on a $20 cutter?


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 9, 2015)

On a 24" bar.  Compared with a box of files a dozen at 14 bucks (and it usually takes at least one file every time). 20 bucks for a burr isn't bad.  I can run them farther I use 20 as an average.  Depends on how you use them, how much material you remove at one time and if you happen to turn them backwards, then they are good for one tooth....

I don't care how good you think you are at hand filing, you can't compete with a jig mounted cutter for repetitive accuracy.  Like I said previously, the Timberline is no good for 1/4" PICCO chain on a short bar ot maybe I should say it's doable but a PITA.

I'm happy with mine and obviously they sell a bunch or they wouldn't stay in business.


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## claydogg84 (Mar 9, 2015)

SidecarFlip said:


> On a 24" bar.  Compared with a box of files a dozen at 14 bucks (and it usually takes at least one file every time). 20 bucks for a burr isn't bad.  I can run them farther I use 20 as an average.  Depends on how you use them, how much material you remove at one time and if you happen to turn them backwards, then they are good for one tooth....
> 
> I don't care how good you think you are at hand filing, you can't compete with a jig mounted cutter for repetitive accuracy.  Like I said previously, the Timberline is no good for 1/4" PICCO chain on a short bar ot maybe I should say it's doable but a PITA.
> 
> I'm happy with mine and obviously they sell a bunch or they wouldn't stay in business.



The uniformity of the sharpening is what appeals to me the most. I absolutely hate when my saw tries to cut around corners after a fresh hand filing. I've gotten better at making sure that doesn't happen, but you're right - it's never going to be perfect when doing it by hand. The price for the Timberline is high, and the 20 or so sharpenings I'm going to get out of the $20 carbide sort of scares me. I'm still contemplating, but for anyone else thinking about pulling the trigger, the code CSSJ was good for $15 off.


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## jeffesonm (Mar 9, 2015)

After of years of free-handing with a Dremel I recently bought the Granberg File-N-Joint.  So far I am happy with it, produces a nice sharp edge, way more consistent than the Dremel and I would say sharp as a new blade.  It takes regular files and I seem to be getting a few sharpenings out of each file, and that's even after "correcting" my Dremel filed chains.  I expect now the teeth are consistent the files should last longer.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 9, 2015)

claydogg84 said:


> The price for the Timberline is high, and the 20 or so sharpenings I'm going to get out of the $20 carbide sort of scares me


 
I agree, the price is high compared to a file jig or even a 12 volt Dremel chainsaw sharpener but it's not compared to say a Speed Sharp Star from Baileys at $319.00 on sale and that still is limited to somewhere with 110 volts, preferrably mounted on a bench, so, it's kind of teat for tat.

The Timberline is a well built, accurate, made here, not China tool (not China is a big plus for me).... and when I said 20 sharpenings I was being conservative but I don't want anyone to think the burrs last forever because they don't.  Depending on your technique you may get 50 loops out of a burr, it all boils down to to you.

I have the 12 volt Dremel (I use that on my Arborists 1/8" Picco chain)I also have a less expensive Oregon grinder somewhere in the shop.  I find the grinder to be hard to use.  May just be me but the Timberline is exceptionally easy for me to sharpen with...  but then I used a Gamin years ago and the Gamin was essentially a Timberline in a cruder form.  Timberline took the Gamin design and improved it considerably.

I've experienced the 'hand filed' crooked cut as well.  I never knew a chainsaw could cut a curve, but it certainly can.  The Timberline eliminates that......

I also agree with the poster that stated the Timberline works best on a new loop,  I found out right away just how erratic my hand filing was first time I put on the Timberline and walked around a loop.  It took me 2 times around to get a consistent cut across every tooth because of the variance in angle so starting with a new loop, all the cutter angles will be a consistent 30 degrees (and you can get optional guides from Timberline to change the cutter angle to 35 degrees for ripping but 30) is fine for my uses.  I believe you can order the tool with the 35 degree guides in place of the 30's, I think.

No, I don't wotk for Timberline, in fact, I'm retired.  I just appreciate a well made and executed tool thats made here instead of 'over there'.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 9, 2015)

jeffesonm said:


> After of years of free-handing with a Dremel I recently bought the Granberg File-N-Joint.  So far I am happy with it, produces a nice sharp edge, way more consistent than the Dremel and I would say sharp as a new blade.  It takes regular files and I seem to be getting a few sharpenings out of each file, and that's even after "correcting" my Dremel filed chains.  I expect now the teeth are consistent the files should last longer.


 
I've looked at them, but never used one and the Timberline isn't that much more.  I'm just super careful with the Dremel on the little chains and use the one with the angle guide built into the end.

Different strokes (literally) for different folks.


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## jeffesonm (Mar 9, 2015)

The Timberline is a good bit more at $100+ vs $35 for the Granberg.  I also like how the Granberg can cut just about any angle and uses standard files.  I've never used the Timberline but looks to be a quality piece of equipment; it was really the price that steered me away.


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## CRE10 (Mar 9, 2015)

SidecarFlip said:


> On a 24" bar.  Compared with a box of files a dozen at 14 bucks (and it usually takes at least one file every time). 20 bucks for a burr isn't bad.  I can run them farther I use 20 as an average.  Depends on how you use them, how much material you remove at one time and if you happen to turn them backwards, then they are good for one tooth....
> 
> I don't care how good you think you are at hand filing, you can't compete with a jig mounted cutter for repetitive accuracy.  Like I said previously, the Timberline is no good for 1/4" PICCO chain on a short bar ot maybe I should say it's doable but a PITA.
> 
> I'm happy with mine and obviously they sell a bunch or they wouldn't stay in business.


If I rock a chain I put it on the grinder. Without rocking one how many sharpenings do you think you would get? I feel like I get a lot more than 1 sharpening per chain file, but I also touch up my chain after every tank and use the Pferd file and raker file around every 3rd sharpening.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 9, 2015)

CRE10 said:


> If I rock a chain I put it on the grinder. Without rocking one how many sharpenings do you think you would get? I feel like I get a lot more than 1 sharpening per chain file, but I also touch up my chain after every tank and use the Pferd file and raker file around every 3rd sharpening.


 
Can't answer that.  I have a grinder but prefer the cold method (Timberline or hand file) over the grinder because it's too damn easy to overheat a tooth and loose temper, especially if you have to remove quite a bit of metal (I hit nails and rocks ocassionally, everyone does) but the Timberline is more consistent (no rocking) unlike hand filing.

I said before, seen the Granberg, in fact Baileys sells them but never gor one.  Between the grinder (somewhere in the shop), the Dremel and the Timberline, I'm set.  Besides I'm only an ocassional chainsaw user.  I only have 70 acres or so of mixed hardwood to look after so it's mostly storm damage.

Iquit burning wood and went to biofuel (corn/pellets) a long time ago so everything under 8" gets chipped and over 8' gets sawed to 2 foot lengths and piled so anyone driving by can get a load and I usually have plenty of wood and chips.  No issues getting rid of it.

As a side note Michigan is not going to enforce the EPA mandate on outdoor wood burning furnaces.


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## CRE10 (Mar 9, 2015)

SidecarFlip said:


> Can't answer that.  I have a grinder but prefer the cold method (Timberline or hand file) over the grinder because it's too damn easy to overheat a tooth and loose temper, especially if you have to remove quite a bit of metal (I hit nails and rocks ocassionally, everyone does) but the Timberline is more consistent (no rocking) unlike hand filing.
> 
> I said before, seen the Granberg, in fact Baileys sells them but never gor one.  Between the grinder (somewhere in the shop), the Dremel and the Timberline, I'm set.  Besides I'm only an ocassional chainsaw user.  I only have 70 acres or so of mixed hardwood to look after so it's mostly storm damage.
> 
> ...


I hear you on the grinder. Grinding is my last resort. We have very few rocks here and I rarely run into any metal in my wood. I would like to try the Timberline, but haven't spent the $$ yet. The $20 for 20 sharpenings is discouraging, but it sounds like it could be a lot more. I may try one of these days.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 9, 2015)

My main thrust in getting one is I'm getting up there in years and the older I get the less steady I get with my hands (you know the story about having to use a magnifying glass to thread a needle...believe it.), so hand filing is harder now than when I was 30.  The Timberline eliminates my unsteadyness.  Thats the big reason I got one actually.

For old farts like me........  There, I admitted it.


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## CRE10 (Mar 9, 2015)

SidecarFlip said:


> My main thrust in getting one is I'm getting up there in years and the older I get the less steady I get with my hands (you know the story about having to use a magnifying glass to thread a needle...believe it.), so hand filing is harder now than when I was 30.  The Timberline eliminates my unsteadyness.  Thats the big reason I got one actually.
> 
> For old farts like me........  There, I admitted it.


Lol well thanks for your input on it. It's nice hearing your opinion. I may try one down the road. I've really started liking the Pferd combo file.


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## jnaumuk (Mar 9, 2015)

I bought a Timberline from Bailey's today, had a $25 coupon so I pulled the trigger.

Will now sell my Granberg for $22 shipped to anyone interested. Used 2-3 times. Just not my thing. http://www.amazon.com/Granberg-Bar-...5&sr=8-1&keywords=granberg+chainsaw+sharpener


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## j7art2 (Mar 11, 2015)

I've got one. They're decent. I'll give it 5 stars for putting a RAZOR edge on my saw, but ease of use is a 3/5. The rear tensioner needs to be spring loaded, not screw loaded. Even on a new chain, I can't sharpen it like it shows in the video, alternating teeth each time. I need to do all of one side, then all of another, otherwise I'm taking off far too much on one side than the other.


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## j7art2 (Mar 11, 2015)

CRE10 said:


> 20 sharpenings on a $20 cutter?



Not a chance. Website claims over 40 sharpenings on a cutter. I've done over 50 on mine and it still sharpens like a razor. My buddy who recommended it has done over 200 on the original cutter.

*Q: How long will the carbide cutter last?*
A: Carbide cutter lifespan is very much based on the user. However, much testing and customer feedback allows us to confidently claim a _minimum_ of 40+ sharpenings. Users may very well exceed twice that number of sharpenings with careful use by not binding the carbide cutter, by always spinning clockwise, and by following the Instructions and reading our Tips and Tricks.  Sharpening multiple old chains with a cutter will also increase wear on the cutter as it is reshaping the teeth to the most efficient cutting hook shape.

It is recommended to sharpen the chain often instead of waiting until it is extremely dull. This will make sharpening even faster with a quick touch up while reducing wear on both the carbide cutter and the chain itself.


https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/faqs


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## 711mhw (Mar 13, 2015)

I agree with ^^^. I like to just "touch up" and not let the chain get very far below "the perfect chip". It only takes 5-6 turns on each tooth, and cutter cost in NOT a factor in considering this fine tool. I have no idea how many use's per cutter I get as it's not a noticable concern at all shapening 72 DL chains. I did break one soon after I got the TL, I may have been too agressive bringing a chain "back" but the way it broke, it seemed to me that it may have been over hardened & brittle. Prolly was me.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 15, 2015)

I said 20.....  I'm over 20 but not by much so I'll have to report back later on this year and see just how far it does go....

Should go a long ways do long as you don't turn it backwards.

They still aren't worth beans for 1/4" PICCO chain, the cutters are just too small for the tool itself and I agree, theback adjustment should be spring loaded so thats just what I did, used a small spring from the parts bin and forgot to mention it.


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## DodgyNomad (Mar 17, 2015)

SidecarFlip said:


> On a 24" bar.  Compared with a box of files a dozen at 14 bucks (and it usually takes at least one file every time). 20 bucks for a burr isn't bad.  I can run them farther I use 20 as an average.  Depends on how you use them, how much material you remove at one time and if you happen to turn them backwards, then they are good for one tooth....
> 
> I don't care how good you think you are at hand filing, you can't compete with a jig mounted cutter for repetitive accuracy.  Like I said previously, the Timberline is no good for 1/4" PICCO chain on a short bar ot maybe I should say it's doable but a PITA.
> 
> I'm happy with mine and obviously they sell a bunch or they wouldn't stay in business.




Not sure I'm understanding your post correctly.  Are you saying you wear out a file every time you sharpen a 24"?  

This can't be right, or you need to get some better quality files.


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## claydogg84 (Mar 17, 2015)

DodgyNomad said:


> Not sure I'm understanding your post correctly.  Are you saying you wear out a file every time you sharpen a 24"?
> 
> This can't be right, or you need to get some better quality files.



I pretty much burn up 1 file every time I do my 20" chain. I'm not a "touch up" sharpener though - When I sharpen, it's 15-20 strokes per tooth.


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## j7art2 (Mar 18, 2015)

How many chains do you go through per year? Holy cow. I can go from extremely dull to razor sharp in 6-10.


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## j7art2 (Mar 18, 2015)

On a side note, does anyone else have significant issues with the rear tensioner? I've finally screwed it all the way out and just put manual tension on the chain by pulling it into the sharpening file by hand. I'm otherwise constantly adjusting every few teeth.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 18, 2015)

Remove the thumbscrew from the pawl and put in a small spring (got mine from the farm store parts bin).  That eliminates the slop.


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## j7art2 (Mar 18, 2015)

Not a bad idea. Does your spring just go over the shaft of the thumb screw then? If you're able, please snap a pic for me. That's the only thing I hate about this sharpener, is the rear tensioner. Using it makes me want to launch it across the barn after every tooth.


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## claydogg84 (Mar 18, 2015)

j7art2 said:


> How many chains do you go through per year? Holy cow. I can go from extremely dull to razor sharp in 6-10.



I get 4, maybe 5 good re sharpens with a file. When I'm done its sharper than factory. I don't mess with it until I hit metal or dirt. I'm only cutting 5 - 10 cord a year and maybe a 1/3 of that is already bucked for me. So I would say maybe 3 chains a year, depends on how much I help friends.


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## DodgyNomad (Mar 18, 2015)

claydogg84 said:


> I get 4, maybe 5 good re sharpens with a file. When I'm done its sharper than factory. I don't mess with it until I hit metal or dirt. I'm only cutting 5 - 10 cord a year and maybe a 1/3 of that is already bucked for me. So I would say maybe 3 chains a year, depends on how much I help friends.




There's some issues here.  I buck 6-8 cord a day in the summer on weekends, red and white oak.  I chuck the saw up in a vise every other tankful and it usually takes 4 strokes to get it back to cutting ribbons instead of chips.  I run a 30 inch bar no skip on my MS660 and by keeping the files clean and paying attention, I get a lot of sharpens (at least 25) out of one before it's dull.

My MS361 gets at least 30 sharpens before the files even start to get dull.  Something else going on here.


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## claydogg84 (Mar 18, 2015)

DodgyNomad said:


> There's some issues here.  I buck 6-8 cord a day in the summer on weekends, red and white oak.  I chuck the saw up in a vise every other tankful and it usually takes 4 strokes to get it back to cutting ribbons instead of chips.  I run a 30 inch bar no skip on my MS660 and by keeping the files clean and paying attention, I get a lot of sharpens (at least 25) out of one before it's dull.
> 
> My MS361 gets at least 30 sharpens before the files even start to get dull.  Something else going on here.



Nothing else is going on. I sharpen when I hit something - it's usually metal as the majority of my wood comes from alongside the road. Once one or two of the blades takes a good hit I take it down and make the rest even.


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## j7art2 (Mar 18, 2015)

I find this very interesting. I used my Timberline all year last year, and cut 12 full cords of hardwood, to which I burned 11 of it. I just started cutting this year again, and so far have gathered the following for this year below. I am still using the original sharpener, and sharpen after every tank of gas. I use 1-2 chains a year with a 562xp.


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## j7art2 (Mar 18, 2015)

Probably a stupid question, but you are turning the handle clockwise into the cutting blade, correct?


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## claydogg84 (Mar 18, 2015)

j7art2 said:


> Probably a stupid question, but you are turning the handle clockwise into the cutting blade, correct?



I'm using a regular file, not the timberline - yet.


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## j7art2 (Mar 19, 2015)

claydogg84 said:


> I'm using a regular file, not the timberline - yet.



Ah! That makes sense. You'll benefit from a Timberline then. Big time and money saver. Though I complain about it's usability at times because the rear tensioner is poorly designed, it puts a razor's edge on my saw. I cannot sharpen my saw now without gloves on or I'll filet myself. Done it twice now.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 19, 2015)

A bit back someone asked foe a picture of my spring on the adjustment screw pawl.  I don't have a camera, it just goes between the pawl and the body and takes the 'flop' out of the pawl.  IMO, for an expensive but useful tool, a poor execution and the only fault I can find, but fixable.  I always wear a leather glove to pull the chain, that sucker is so sharp it will cut you without you knowing it....


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## claydogg84 (Mar 22, 2015)

I couldn't get any of the discount codes to work but I ordered it anyways. $135 with shipping - I sure hope I like this thing.


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## jtstromsburg (Mar 22, 2015)

I ordered one last week. Sharpened my stihl chain once and it was really foolproof.  After showing a friend, he ordered a set for the husky.


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## msherer (Apr 6, 2015)

I got mine and had a chance to give it a try.  I really like it, easy to set up and use.  I couldn't believe how good the chain cut.  

Matt


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## jaoneill (Apr 11, 2015)

msherer said:


> I got mine and had a chance to give it a try.  I really like it, easy to set up and use.  I couldn't believe how good the chain cut.
> 
> Matt


Ditto; I have free hand file sharpened for 50 years with no adverse issues. I usually sharpen (touch up) with each fill-up and find I cut pretty close to a cord on a tankful. I got into some logs a few weeks ago that I had had to skid down off a rocky ridge and dirt in the bark made sharpening a real chore for this old guy. That was about the time I read this thread and I promptly ordered the Timberline. I sharpened both my saws with it before heading out this morning and I must say it does a teriffic job and is an effortless pleasure to use (especially for an old guy)......


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## DodgyNomad (Apr 20, 2015)

KodiakII said:


> Best to protect yourself from the little razor blades called filings!  Take it from me they can be a real pain.  If you keep a bit of light oil on the cutter that will also keep them at bay.




That is the other issue I have.  I use carbide mill burrs and grinders quite often and HATE having to clean up and avoid the needles it leaves, as I've spent far too much time digging slivers out over the years.  That and the price are the main reasons I haven't purchased one, even just to play with.  I despise those razor sharp shards from this kind of grinding.


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## jotul8e2 (May 21, 2017)

I have looked at and read about the Timberline sharpener for years, but never could lay down the money (I have been accused of throwing nickels around like they are manhole covers).  I finally bought one, but it was a two step process.

First, I told my gadget-obsessed brother in law about Timberline.  After he bought one, I tried his and was very impressed.  So there was nothing to do but buy my own.

I am very pleased.  The chain seems to hold its edge well, it is probably a bit faster than hand filing, and my perception is that less metal is removed each time.  I can usually hand file a chain only about six  times before I have to take it to the saw shop.  I've been hand filing for about 35 years, but I think I actually have had 35 different one year experiences; I've never really gotten any better.


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## shitog9 (Feb 8, 2020)

I've looked at them, but never used one and the Timberline isn't that much more. I'm just super careful with the Dremel on the little chains and use the one with the angle guide built into the end.


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## SidecarFlip (Feb 9, 2020)

shitog9 said:


> I've looked at them, but never used one and the Timberline isn't that much more. I'm just super careful with the Dremel on the little chains and use the one with the angle guide built into the end.



The Timberline is good in the field.  I used to have an older design that is no longer made and the handle wore out so I got one.  I use a Dremel sharpener too with the angle guide in the shop or hand file using the Stihl file guide which is a pretty neat tool to have.  Stump vise is mandatory in the field to secure the guide bar.

I don't cut a lot of wood 'cause I don't use it to heat with but we have a lot of trees and storm damage is always an on going thing here.  I roast everything in a bonfire about 2 times a year.


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