# Benjamin CC500 wood/oil boiler



## gshep

Hi,
I'm wondering if there's anyone who can help me with this. I'm in search of a indoor wood/oil boiler. I've spoken with Tarm regarding their product; for the most part it appears that their units are too large for my space. My house is approx. 1000 sq. ft. w/hot water baseboard heat. Does anyone have any experience with the Benjamin cc500. Is this a good unit? Additionally what should I be concerning myself with when looking for multi-fuel boilers. Thus far; there doesn't seem to be many manufactors of combo units.


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## Eric Johnson

Welcome to the Boiler Room, gshep.

I've used both combination boilers and stand-alone wood-fired units.

You have a lot of options, but a combination wood-oil boiler is not always the best one. It depends on what you want to do and what your current setup is like.

 Why do you want a combo?

What are you heating with at the moment?


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## gshep

Hi, 
I currently have a 20 plus yr. old Weil-Mclain Oil Boiler. My fuel cost have skyrocketed; my thinking is, by using a combo set-up I have the option of heating with oil or wood. I would use oil when I'm not available to feed a fire. Based on current set-up and location of boiler, it appears that one would replace the other and I could still use chimney to vent system. The Benjamin cc500 info  states the wood/ oil are vented together. I've checked with the building inspector and he states thats ok. Certainly the Tarm appears to be superior in its make-up but oversize for what I need. Benjamin on the otherhand sounds like what I need but; "How good is the product"? There's something to be said about a product waranteed for 20yr verses 6yr. If I were rolling in dow I would not concern myself with fuel cost and I'd probably go solar entirely, but that's not feasible on my budget.


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## Eric Johnson

I think you might be ahead to keep your oil boiler and pipe a dedicated woodburner in next to it. Here's why:

Despite what the literature, website and sales staff says, most combination wood/oil burners are only optimized to be good at one thing. Typically, they're built to burn wood, with the oil stuck on as an afterthought. If the oil gun uses the same firebox as the wood, then there's no way it's going to be efficient as an oil burner. And there's no way the oil nozzle is going to avoid being damaged or otherwise compromised if it's exposed to the wood fire. So the multi-use claim is really more marketing hype than reality.

Higher-end combo units like the Tarm and the Wood Gun have separate combustion chambers, and are thus more efficient and functional. But if the Tarm combo was too big for your heat load, then I think the Wood Gun probably is as well.

The vast majority of wood/oil combination boilers use the same flue for both. While it's legal to use the same flue for oil and wood with a combination boiler, in many cases it's not safe, IMO. It's against Code, for example, for two separate appliances to share the same flue. But it's within Code to do it with a combination boiler. Makes no sense. The danger is that you can get creosote buildup in the chimney and then switch over to oil and try to run your oil burner in a restricted or plugged chimney. The results can be tragic. The only safe way to do it is to clean your chimney before switching over from wood to oil. So there's no safe or practical way to automatically have your oil burner pick up the slack for your wood side.

Another problem is that with a combination boiler, you've got all your eggs in one pressure vessel. If it springs a leak, you don't have a way to heat your house. If it dies, you don't have the luxury of heating with your backup while trying to figure out what to do. You have to act fast, or drain the system and move out.

As it is, you have a perfectly good oil boiler that hopefully you won't have to use at all during the heating season. You can buy a nice dedicated wood boiler--preferably a gasifier--and still have a reliable backup for the transition months and for when you leave town in the winter.

The only downside to that approach is that you will need either a separate chimney for the wood boiler, or a powervent for your oil burner, allowing you to vent it out the side of the foundation and use the existing chimney for the wood boiler.


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## gshep

Thank you for your response, however it left me scrathing my head a little, I'm ignorant when it comes to type of stuff.  You stated in your reply. "If the oil gun uses the same firebox as the wood, then there's no way it's going to be efficient as an oil burner". Please school me on this; again the literature states that there are two separate combustion chambers, one for oil and the other for wood. Correct me if I'm wrong, isn't the combustion chamber the same as the fire box? Isn't it just another way of saying the same thing? I'm not clear on this; if there are two separate chambers, why would the oil gun have anything to do with the wood portion of the unit? Maybe i'm not getting the concept of the oil gun. I know you said a lot in your reply, if you could clarify the oil gun and firebox function for me I'd thoroughly appreciate it.

Thanks again


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## Eric Johnson

If it has two separate combustion chambers, then forget what I said about a shared firebox. I had a combination boiler (Marathon Logwood) in which the two shared the same firebox.

It still won't be as efficient as a dedicated oil burner with the separate combustion chamber, but it will be much better than with a shared one. But I bet they both share the same chimney outlet. If so, what I said about that still stands.


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## gshep

When you say the sharing of the same chimney outlet; are you referring to the venting of the system?


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## Eric Johnson

Where the smoke exits the boiler. Do the oil and wood sides share the same chimney, or do they have separate outlets?


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## gshep

The installation guide for the cc500 can be found in the Benjamin website. It shows two pipe or flue outlets.


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## gshep

Disregard the first link I sent. the link below has a complete install guide.

http://www.apimaine.com/apipdfs/CC500install.pdf


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## Eric Johnson

That's interesting. It shows both exhausts connecting to the same chimney, but I suspect that's against Code even though they're both part of the "same" appliance. But I'm not the codes guy. It would be best to connect them to separate chimneys, and it might be required.

Either way, that still leaves you with all your heating eggs in one pressure vessel.

Why are you so anxious to get rid of your Weil-Mclain? I've got one made in 1958 as my backup, and it works great. I have no plans to replace it.


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## gshep

When you say " that still leaves you with all your heating eggs in one pressure vessel"; Maybe I've missed something; "isn't the oil and wood independent of one another"? If the oil portion breaks down, I thought I could still use the wood side of it. I will definetly inquire about that before making a purchase.
Yes, I'm anxious to cut fuel cost and tell my oil provider to stick it where the sun doesn't shine. The Weil-Mclain I have no longer makes enough domestic hot water, the hot water coil is shot and labor intensive to replace. The bolts holding the plate in front of the coil would require re-tapping just to install a new coil. I'm tired of replacing parts and still having an old unit that isn't as efficient as  current boilers of today. I currently use a hot water heater that runs off of propane. If I go with the multi-fuel unit; I can get rid of the hot water heater and the additional fuel cost attached to that, as well as cuting my oil cost in half. Both appliances work, but its costing me more money to use both as oppose to one unit that will do it all. If I decide to purchase the combo and if it breaks down; I guess I'll cross that bridge provided I get to it. 
This  exchange started mostly with my query about the quality of the Benjamin cc500, from where I sit I don't want to invest into junk. If it not a good unit I will need to nix the idea. I'm not really interested in a add on wood burner.  If I were looking to buy a single unit I would probably go with a new Weil-Mclain boiler; from my experience they make a reliable product, but my need calls for more than they have to offer.


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## Eric Johnson

My point was that if your combination boiler springs a leak, you're out of options. That's what I mean by putting all your eggs into one pressure vessel.

A good wood-fired boiler will solve your hot water problems and let you heat your house and hot water without oil or gas. As I said, you're going to compromise efficiency on the oil side with a combination boiler.


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## webbie

Quick take on the boiler - looks like a relatively ancient design. The wood chamber looks like it has no aspects of advanced combustion and uses an electric motor damper to operate. This certainly will not give top efficiency. Likely we are talking about 30-40% on the wood end. I know you are on a budget but you also have to consider the creosote, smoke and the cost of firewood (or the time and energy of it).

We can't say it is not a "good" unit, but I think Eric and I can say if we were shopping for a boiler we would look at newer and more efficient technology. If I were going to go with older tech, I would look around for a used unit at a REAL bargain. That's my take, anyway!

Oh, you can also consider an external DHW tank for any boiler you end up with - like a "superstore" - I had one in my last home and it was great. These are tanks with a DHW coil in them, and they circulate water from your boilers into a coil at the bottom of the tank. This provides some storage for hot water, and you are less likely to run out.


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## gshep

Who offers newer and more efficient technology in a combination unit for a house that's only 1000 sq. I looked at the Tarm and spoke with them. I was told their unit is too large for my needs. What about the design that appears ancient ? Did you review the link I posted in an earlier reply to Eric. Is that 30-40% efficiency for the wood side?  What are the differences between the advanced combustion technology and what the Benjamin's chamber looks like or has to offer. What does the the advance technologhy use to operate its damper. 
I appreciate all the input I'm getting, but I'm a middle aged woman who hasn't the time nor desire to be married to a wood only boiler. I'm looking to simplfy things. What happens during cold spells? How does the wood get into the firebox if I'm away? This was one of the things I needed to take into consideration when I started my search. If there's something you know please respond with...


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## Eric Johnson

I apologize for any confusion. To me it doesn't make any sense to tear out a perfectly good oil boiler and replace it with a wood/oil combination. You're really better off, from a number of different perspectives--most of which we've already discussed--to add a wood-only boiler on to your existing system. 

If anybody disagrees with that, I hope they will speak up.

Since you investigated Tarm first, I assume that you want a good wood boiler. When we hear "Tarm" we think wood gasification boilers, since they pioneered that technology in this country, and I believe that's all Tarm sells now. If the Tarm 30 is too big for your house, then you can get an EKO 25, which as the model number suggests, is smaller than the Tarm. My guess is that you only looked at the Tarm combination boiler, which may indeed be too big for your house.

The nice thing about gasifiers is that they don't produce any smoke or creosote, so they're more environmentally friendly than a conventional boiler, require little or no chimney maintenance, and are, as a result, much safer. If you buy a conventional boiler like the Benjamin you are considering, you'll have to deal with smoke and creosote and the resulting 30-40% efficiency (compared to 80-90%) that results from the smoke going up the stack instead of being burned for heat. A gasifier burns the wood in an upper chamber and then pulls the smoke down into a lower chamber and burns it at around 2,000 degrees. A conventional boiler like the Benjamin CC500 has one firebox, where wood is burned and the smoke is allowed to escape up the stack. The smoke is lost efficiency and air pollution. Simple as that. Most--but not all--gasifiers use a blower to supply air to the burning chambers. Look at the diagram on the left side of the top banner for Cozy Heat. That's a cutaway view of a downdraft gasifier. If you go to the website you can watch a video of the thing working (pretty impressive) and see all the relevant specifications.

Here's the link to the manufacturers' website and the page for the Benjamin CC500. It doesn't give any details or specifications, so it's hard to say how big that boiler is, but I'm guessing 75 or 100K btu. The EKO 25, for example, puts out 80K btu per hour. I'm always suspicious of product descriptions that spend a lot of time talking about basically irrelevant product features (i.e., "Dutch Oven" effect) without talking about specifics. What's its _overall_ efficiency when burning wood? How big is the firebox? What's the output?

http://www.apimaine.com/CC500.html

And they talk about the "Energy Star" rating, without providing any details, either. My strong hunch is that any Energy Star rating they get will apply to the oil side only--not the wood, despite the strong implication to the contrary.


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## webbie

I sold and also used the basic Benjamin wood boilers with the "dutch oven" design. This design is a simple cylinder - nothing else. No enhanced combustion features.

As to boiler sizing, I think you have to have a heat load done on your house. Sq feet is not a good criteria to go by, because construction and climate can differ.

Yes, I am talking about 30-40% on the wood side, keeping in mind that our members here have tested some of the best boilers on the market and only gotten 60% or so. In terms of pollution output, a basic boiler like the B would put out 10x as much than a high efficiency downdraft (gasifier).

I know that the new generation costs more - any way you look at it the total $$ on a hot water wood central heating system can add up fast.


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## Eric Johnson

Are you working with a contractor who sells the Benjamin and wants to install it in your house, or did you research this on your own? If the former, did he do a heatloss calc on your house to determine your needs?

You can do your own heat loss calc by downloading the free calculator here:

http://www.heatinghelp.com


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## gshep

Thank you both for your insight


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## Mainewood

gshep said:
			
		

> Hi,
> I'm wondering if there's anyone who can help me with this. I'm in search of a indoor wood/oil boiler. I've spoken with Tarm regarding their product; for the most part it appears that their units are too large for my space. My house is approx. 1000 sq. ft. w/hot water baseboard heat. Does anyone have any experience with the Benjamin cc500. Is this a good unit? Additionally what should I be concerning myself with when looking for multi-fuel boilers. Thus far; there doesn't seem to be many manufactors of combo units.



gshep, The CC-500 may be a good option in your situation, since you are looking to replace an old oil boiler.  It would probably cost you about $10,000 to purchase and install in the place of your old boiler.  The wood portion of the boiler is not as clean or efficent as the gassifiers, but it provides a cost effective way of burning wood to heat your home and domestic hot water. The oil side of the CC-500 has been tested and yields 85% efficency, with either Riello or Beckett burners. The wood and the oil fire in 2 seperate chambers so that wood smoke does not come into contact with the oil burner.  Here are some real world observations:  I have operated a Benjamin wood boiler in my home for 3 yrs.  Before installing the wood boiler I used 1100 gals of heating oil.  I have used about 300 gals of oil and 5 cords of wood to heat my home for the past 3 heating seasons.  I am getting about 8 hrs of burn time before re-loading.  Burn times will vary with outside temps & type of wood.


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## gshep

Thanks Mainewood for sharing your experience, I will take it into consideration. 

 Answer to Eric's question; I researched the Ben; I'm currently researching contractors as well. Most HVAC in this area have little or no experience with Multi-fuel boilers.  I asked 2 heating guys and neither of them were familiar.


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## Mainewood

gshep said:
			
		

> Thanks Mainewood for sharing your experience, I will take it into consideration.
> 
> Answer to Eric's question; I researched the Ben; I'm currently researching contractors as well. Most HVAC in this area have little or no experience with Multi-fuel boilers.  I asked 2 heating guys and neither of them were familiar.



gshep, You may want to get your info. "straight from the horse's mouth".  I have found  Stephen Benjamin, the company's owner, both helpful & knowegeable.   Benjamin Heating Products.  1-800-565-5495


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## gshep

Thank you Mainewood,
I actually tried calling the manufactor last week; I spoke with someone who was suppose to be Tech support and he was very nasty; I hung up on him. If tech support is not going to be support; then why bother. I will try again with hope that my experience be better the 2nd time around
.
By the way, are you still using the benjamin? Have you  had any problems, leaks, etc? Can you use one side of the boiler predominately, be it wood or oil; without effecting the system. How much space is your unit heating and is that space well insulated.


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## Mainewood

Eric Johnson said:
			
		

> I apologize for any confusion. To me it doesn't make any sense to tear out a perfectly good oil boiler and replace it with a wood/oil combination. You're really better off, from a number of different perspectives--most of which we've already discussed--to add a wood-only boiler on to your existing system.
> 
> If anybody disagrees with that, I hope they will speak up.
> 
> Since you investigated Tarm first, I assume that you want a good wood boiler. When we hear "Tarm" we think wood gasification boilers, since they pioneered that technology in this country, and I believe that's all Tarm sells now. If the Tarm 30 is too big for your house, then you can get an EKO 25, which as the model number suggests, is smaller than the Tarm. My guess is that you only looked at the Tarm combination boiler, which may indeed be too big for your house.
> 
> The nice thing about gasifiers is that they don't produce any smoke or creosote, so they're more environmentally friendly than a conventional boiler, require little or no chimney maintenance, and are, as a result, much safer. If you buy a conventional boiler like the Benjamin you are considering, you'll have to deal with smoke and creosote and the resulting 30-40% efficiency (compared to 80-90%) that results from the smoke going up the stack instead of being burned for heat. A gasifier burns the wood in an upper chamber and then pulls the smoke down into a lower chamber and burns it at around 2,000 degrees. A conventional boiler like the Benjamin CC500 has one firebox, where wood is burned and the smoke is allowed to escape up the stack. The smoke is lost efficiency and air pollution. Simple as that. Most--but not all--gasifiers use a blower to supply air to the burning chambers. Look at the diagram on the left side of the top banner for Cozy Heat. That's a cutaway view of a downdraft gasifier. If you go to the website you can watch a video of the thing working (pretty impressive) and see all the relevant specifications.
> 
> Here's the link to the manufacturers' website and the page for the Benjamin CC500. It doesn't give any details or specifications, so it's hard to say how big that boiler is, but I'm guessing 75 or 100K btu. The EKO 25, for example, puts out 80K btu per hour. I'm always suspicious of product descriptions that spend a lot of time talking about basically irrelevant product features (i.e., "Dutch Oven" effect) without talking about specifics. What's its _overall_ efficiency when burning wood? How big is the firebox? What's the output?
> 
> http://www.apimaine.com/CC500.html
> And they talk about the "Energy Star" rating, without providing any details, either. My strong hunch is that any Energy Star rating they get will apply to the oil side only--not the wood, despite the strong implication to the contrary.



Eric, API was the importer for Benjamin products in Manie, but is no longer in business.  The correct link to the manufacturer's website is:   http://www.benjaminheating.com/cc500_series.htm


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## Mainewood

gshep said:
			
		

> Thank you Mainewood,
> I actually tried calling the manufactor last week; I spoke with someone who was suppose to be Tech support and he was very nasty; I hung up on him. If tech support is not going to be support; then why bother. I will try again with hope that my experience be better the 2nd time around
> .
> By the way, are you still using the benjamin? Have you  had any problems, leaks, etc? Can you use one side of the boiler predominately, be it wood or oil; without effecting the system. How much space is your unit heating and is that space well insulated.



Yes, I am still using the Benjamin and enjoying the fact that I am not burning 1100 gals of fossil fuel.  If you want to discuss further, send me an e-mail.


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## Jimxt88

I'm afraid you have lost her.  You guys went right over what her primary concerns were after keeping her house heated..." but I’m a middle aged woman who hasn’t the time nor desire to be married to a wood only boiler. I’m looking to simplfy things. What happens during cold spells? How does the wood get into the firebox if I’m away?"  So what do you say guys... how does she keep the pipes from freezing if she doesn't have an automatic fossil fuel backup.  Listen to the customer....  I know I'm butting in but I want Gshep to know she is being heard.


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## Eric Johnson

I think we're addressing her concerns. I'm suggesting leaving her existing oil boiler in place as a backup and installing a dedicated wood-fired boiler for primary heat. The alternative is to tear out the existing oil boiler and install a combination wood/oil boiler. My point is that it's unsafe and inconvenient to vent both oil and wood sides into the same flue. I've done it, and I don't recommend it. I'm also suggesting that it's unwise to put your entire heating system into one pressure vessel if you can avoid it. Better to have two separate appliances that can be isolated from the system in the event of a problem, such as a leak or a plugged chimney.


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## Jimxt88

Yes, you are right.  I knew you were giving her good advice.  I thought she may have felt her problems were solved with the CC500 and wanted confirmation.  I know what it is like to think you've found the solution to your problems only to be told it isn't going to be that easy.   I know you are not salesmen.  I appreciate all the genuine support and interest you have shown my concerns.  I hope she takes your advice.  Would you recommend the Harmon Pellet boilers.  Not necessarily to gshep but in general.  I am thinking of buying one to solve another heating problem in my life not previously addressed on this chat room.


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## Jimxt88

Having trouble finding a dealer around here for the Harmon Pellet Boiler.  I'll have to call the fellow in Maine I was referred to earlier.  About Gshep and the CC500:  as I understood you Erik, you were trying to tell her that she can avoid being married to a wood stove by leaving her existing oil burner in place and adding a wood-only gasifying boiler arranged to work in parallell with her oil-fired boiler.  By means of a plumbing/electrical circuit that would induce the oil appliance to kick in when her wood-fired boiler is left unattended.  Is that right?  The caveat being that she would also have to find a way to vent the two appliances independently of one another.  Chacnes are, if her existing oil boiler is twenty-five years old, her chimney is not lined.  If she puts a wood burning appliance into that flue she will have to line the chimney not only for code compliance but for health and safety.  Of course she would want to do this even if she went with the Benjamin CC500.  Is venting the oil-boiler out the cellar window something that can be done within code limitations?


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## Eric Johnson

From most perspectives, a pellet boiler is an excellent choice. I don't know anything about specific brands. My only concern with pellets is that their pricing will always track that of oil. If oil goes up a buck a gallon, you can bet that pellets will rise in price accordingly. You'll probably always save money with pellets, but you have to factor in the initial cost of the boiler vs. oil, and realize that the savings won't approach those of chunk wood, which can be had in many cases for little or nothing. And the price of raw wood tends to be a lot more stable. But it's also a lot more work. So it's more of a lifestyle choice than anything else.

A clay-lined chimney is technically a Class A chimney, I believe, so it would work (and be legal) for a gasifier or conventional wood boiler. It might or might not work as well as that same chimney with a stainless steel liner, but I'd try it first just to see, especially with a gasifier, which won't produce any creosote.

You've got the oil backup/wood-based primary setup right. Why tear out a perfectly good oil boiler and replace it with something that might not work as well? Makes no sense to me. There are plenty of good ways to set the two up to work together. Personally, I just disconnect my gas boiler and use the wood all the time, except on those rare occasions when I'm out of town for more than a day in the winter. Takes about 10 minutes to get it working again.

In gshep's case, I'd consider power venting the oil boiler (out through the foundation or wall) and use the existing chimney for either a gasifier (half the wood and no smoke, but higher initial cost) or a good conventional wood-fired indoor boiler (lower initial cost but twice the wood consumption, smoke and good chance of creosote).

My motivations are pretty transparent: I believe in burning wood instead of fossil fuels, and I want to encourage people to use the best technology they can afford.

That said, I also believe in supporting our sponsors. Cozy Heat (top banner) has a nice line of pellet-burners that I would encourage you to check out.


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## webbie

The single flue idea is always interesting, but I suppose a lot of code authorities would question the Benjamin (two separate stove pipes) - even if it has a listing. Many would want the chimney to have the capacity to burn both fuels at one time at full bore. Others would simply turn it down and tell you to appeal it. I know because this has happened to me in NJ. 

Also, what are the chances of an older oil flue meeting current NFPA? Meaning that it is 2" away from all wood on the whole way up....almost impossible. The chimney therefore must be relined with a smaller pipe - again, a smaller capacity.

So all these things must be taken into account when making a decision. Better to have too many opinions than not enough.


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## mlrautiola

Hello,

I bought a Benjamin CC500 last year for my new home. The home is around 2000 SQ FT . I moved into the home at the end of November.  I have been burning wood steady since i moved in. I am guessing i have burned about 4 cords so far. The 2 negative points I have encountered is that the wood box is too small which requires multiple loading around 4 or 5 times a day ( depending on how cold it is.) and that the buildup of creasote on the fire door ripped at the gasket. (Dry wood will eliminate this, I burned some green wood because I ran  low on dry.) Even with these 2 negatives i have been impressed and have been warm and toasty without supporting the OIL companies. I am on a short Vacation right now so I let the OIL run while I am gone. Before i bought it I did look into the TARM units. They are alot better and efficient but double in price. I think this unit would heat an 1000 SQ FT home with ease.


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## Eric Johnson

Welcome to the Boiler Room, mirautiola. Glad to have you aboard.


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## gshep

Hi,
Thanks so much for sharing that information with me. I suspect that if your unit is heating 2000 sq feet; and the amount of wood required to keep it comfortable; it's probably safe for me to say that I may need only 3/4 of that. I'm taking into consideration, I have a much older home that is not well insulated and obviously outside temps. I realize all of this must be factored in. What really concerns me is your mention of creosote build up. How often has cleaning been required? Are you speaking only of the fire box or of the chimney as well? Please let me know; provided you get this.


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## mlrautiola

Hi,

The creasote build up I mentioned is on the fire door where you load the wood. When your house is not calling for Heat and the Boiler water temp reaches the peak (190 deg F) the auto draft closes and kinda smolders the fire. As the fire is smoldering the exhaust temp is lower and if the wood is to green can even lower the exhaust temperature more and cause creasote to form on the inside of the door and else where. The creasote usually does not form thick as it is burned up when the draft is back open and fire can roar. On my case the creasote stuck to the door and gasket and when i had opened the door to reload the wood It ripped a little. I called my dealer and the shipped a replacement free of charge. Since i turned it on over 2 months ago I have not cleaned any except for a simple scape down at the door to prevent future tears to gasket. I used a mirror and peared up the chimney and it looks fine for now.


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## Mainewood

Jimxt88 said:
			
		

> I'm afraid you have lost her.  You guys went right over what her primary concerns were after keeping her house heated..." but I’m a middle aged woman who hasn’t the time nor desire to be married to a wood only boiler. I’m looking to simplfy things. What happens during cold spells? How does the wood get into the firebox if I’m away?"  So what do you say guys... how does she keep the pipes from freezing if she doesn't have an automatic fossil fuel backup.  Listen to the customer....  I know I'm butting in but I want Gshep to know she is being heard.



Here is a copy of Gshep's email:
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 6:24 PM
Subject: Benjamin cc500


> Hi Mainewood, I hope you get this email. I really appeciate all the advice
> I've received from the forum. However, I feel as though I'm being pushed
> toward a add-on wood boiler. I'm being told what to take into 
> consideration
> but no one is taking into consideration the fact that they don't know the
> layout of my house. Additonally I clearly said early in the exchange; that
> I was not interested in a wood only boiler.
> My house use to be a summer bungalow that was converted years ago to a 4
> season home. The original structure consisted of a walk-in basement and
> bathroom noted as level #1. The chimney at that time was on the outside of
> the structure. Level #2 consisted of kitchen and living room only. Years
> later a garage was added to level #1 and a 2nd bathroom and two bedrooms
> were added to level#2. As a result of the addition the chimney now runs up
> the center of the house because the builder built around it. Based on the
> design of the house; the Benjamin seem as though it would work. I spoke
> with the building inspector, he stated that the one chimney could be used
> for a multi-fuel boiler. He said I would need a permit for the fire and
> electrical installation. With that being said; I already assumed the
> chimney wood require re-lining. Otherthan that the installation appears to
> be cut and dry; take out the old boiler and put in the new; keep in mind
> this is pure speculation on my part.
> A wood boiler needs to get vented somewhere; I believe there are
> restrictions on length and height for the vent. The outside walls are not
> accessible from the current set-up, neither are the windows. So the 
> thought
> of adding a wood boiler doesn't seem possible without riping my house 
> apart
> to accomondate a 2nd boiler.
> I have already dumped money into my old Weil-Mclain. Its not as efficient
> as the current models and I'm totally dependent on the oil companies and I
> would like to change that. I want to put the money back into my pocket. 
> All
> I really wanted from the start of all of this was to know if anyone had
> prior experience with the Benjamin and what I should be concerned with.
> Tarm and NewMac can't accomondate me based on budget and the layout of my
> home.
> Please if you can respond with your experience.
>
> Thanks
> Gshep
>


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## tmac

Hello
I purchased a cc500 benjermin boiler 3 years ago. My house is approximately 1800 square feet. It is a older home which i have reciently renovated. The boiler can be installed on a single flue, there is a flue restriction switch in the exhaust pipe from the oil boiler which will not allow the oil burner to come on if the chimney is resticted. The fire box door is 13 inches wide x 12 inches high, it can take a 20 inch stick of wood . I live in Nova Scotia Canada about 100 miles from where the boilers are built, manufacture not very helpful with tech support . I burn between 10 to 12 cords of hardwood per year, have not had any issues with boiler cracking but friend of mine has same boiler and his cracked where exhaust pipe exits fire box ,boiler was 2 years old company would not warranty unit, he had to have boiler welded. Also there are two domestic hot water coils at rear of unit they are inside of insulating jacket bolts came lose holding coils in ,boiler developed leak ,water evaporated before leaking out onto floor ,he did not realize it was leaking until he turned boiler off for to repair cracked exhaust pipe. When he contacted company he was told it was installer's responsability to check bolts for tightness which would require taking insulation jacket off of  boiler. He had to have boiler patched to repair rust. Burn time approximately 2 to 4 hours on fill. What other person told you about not putting all eggs in on pressure vessal is true. This boiler has two seperate fire boxes one for wood and one for oil but they are incased in one outer drum which contains the heated water if leak developes in one unit you cannot use the other. I would not recommend that you purchase this unit.


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## Mainewood

tmac, I am a distributor of Benjamin products in Northeastern United States.  I am sorry for your problems with the CC-500.  Please contact me if you would like to discuss your situation with me. 

www.mainewoodfurnaces.com


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