# New home-owner with VC Resolute III questions



## ZubaZ (Oct 24, 2009)

So . .  I've recently bought a house in Southeast Michigan with what I think is a VC Resolute III (Double doors on the front and a manual). 





From what I gather (from the neighbors), the previous owner never used it in the 10 years they owned the house.

I just had the broken glass on the doors replaced this past week and am getting the chimney cleaned next week and looking at wood to buy.

It may be a bit late to be asking but (having moved from Texas) I'm asking anyway.

1) Is this thing worth firing up?  Am I asking for trouble?  Or more effort than it's worth?

2) Are these part of the stove?  I didn't see them in the manual and can't see where they might fit?





3) Does this wire gasket under the griddle need to be replaced?









4) Is there anything else I should know or be doing to get the most out of this stove?  Any secret knowledge to be passed along?

Thanks!


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## lazeedan (Oct 25, 2009)

I am not familiar with your stove but I would have your sweep check it over good since it hasn't been used in a long time.  I would probably change all the gaskets before firing it up.


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## fbelec (Oct 25, 2009)

yep change the gaskets. those rods are known as the mitten warmers. somewhere around the edge of the top of the stove there should be this thing looks like a clamp with a hole in the middle. thats where the rods go. those are great when you come in from moving snow and have to out again. drys gloves and the like fast.


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## stockcarver (Oct 25, 2009)

1) Is this thing worth firing up?  Am I asking for trouble?  Or more effort than it’s worth?

I'm sure the sweep will be able to take a good look at it and tell you more, firsthand. 
Worth the effort? Depends on what you expect. If you just want to fire it up without getting involved, definately not. Lighting off a 
neglected stove without inspection and repair is guaranteed to be a problem.
If you have a good supply of DRY wood on hand, you have a leg up already. If not, then kiss off this season for heating.

Not a bad thing if that is the case, it will give you time to do the work this stove no doubt needs from sitting so long unused.
I would want to remove anything that has a gasket for inspection. Judging by the rust, you have a lot of old compressed gaskets and rust to be removed, cleaned and replaced/resealed. You have a few hours of chipping cement, lots of wire brushing and soaking screws/bolts with penetrating oil ahead of you.
If you like that kind of work, this could be an interesting and satisfying project. If you don't like projects, you might be ahead to sell it to someone that does, and buying a fresh stove. 
If you have to buy wood now, it will most likely be unseasoned. That alone should tell you that burning now is out of the question. Buy wood now, anyway, you will need it for next year, whether you re-hab this stove or replace it.


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## latitude45 (Oct 25, 2009)

I bought the exact stove this summer spent nearly 20hr researching, sandblasting, brushing, disassembling, grinding, gluing, reassembling, and painting.  Just about ready to bring it back into the house. It was a big project but fun. You may not need to do all the work I did. Looks like you could get away with sanding the bad spots and replacing the gaskets. 

Here is my nearly finished product.


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## sandie (Nov 12, 2009)

The steel rods are mitten warmers, there are shelves that go on either side of the top of the stove and steel rods go on to them and can be pulled out torward the front of the stove and out to the side and mittens get dried while on the rods.
The guy who painted his stove brick color, it looks great.  Did the doors just pull off?  My stove appears to be BROWN enamel is that possible?  I need to post pictures of the whitish stain on top and seek advice how to get rid of it or paint it.  I bought stove polish but it is black and the stove looks brown to me but it seems to look different colors each time I go out to look at it, the other day I thought it was blue enamel.  It is not smooth, it is like little bumps all over which is the outer shell so thought enamel. thoughts?


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## latitude45 (Nov 12, 2009)

yep, open the doors all the way and lift.


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## ZubaZ (Nov 12, 2009)

latitude45 said:
			
		

> yep, open the doors all the way and lift.


Looks like it's time to search the basement for shelves.    In theory there is also a mesh that can be swapped out for the doors so the stove can be used as a fireplace.  I'll look for that too.

Thanks for the info.

Chimney sweep is scheduled for next week to evaluate more fully.


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## fbelec (Nov 12, 2009)

sandie said:
			
		

> The steel rods are mitten warmers, there are shelves that go on either side of the top of the stove and steel rods go on to them and can be pulled out torward the front of the stove and out to the side and mittens get dried while on the rods.
> The guy who painted his stove brick color, it looks great.  Did the doors just pull off?  My stove appears to be BROWN enamel is that possible?  I need to post pictures of the whitish stain on top and seek advice how to get rid of it or paint it.  I bought stove polish but it is black and the stove looks brown to me but it seems to look different colors each time I go out to look at it, the other day I thought it was blue enamel.  It is not smooth, it is like little bumps all over which is the outer shell so thought enamel. thoughts?



send pictures of the white stain. when a stove is constantly overfired the metal will turn white. when that happens it very brittle.
guys that know metal say that if it's white and has been overfired that it's junk. hopefully someone that knows metal will come back with a answer.


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## zzr7ky (Nov 12, 2009)

Hi - 

I'd clean it, have sweep show you how to check gaskets.  They're not hard to replace, you probably need them.  

As for securing wood this year.  Get Ash!  There is a lot of Ash around now due to the Emerald Ash Borer.   Ash is about the only wood that can dry fast enough at this point.  I've been burning some that I split in September and It's OK.  

All the best, 
Mike


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## ZubaZ (Dec 7, 2009)

A follow-up.

Chimney sweep came by to clean the chimney and check out the  stove.
It is in very good condition.  No need for any significant maintenance.  If I want to repaint . . more power to me.

I told him that the previous owners hadn't used it and were afraid of it.  After the cleaning he suspected that they used fake logs in there and that one likely exploded.  That would more than be enough to scare them I guess.  It might also explain the broken glass on the doors.

In any case, thanks for all the information and help.  I fired up the stove with some store-bought wood and that sucker got hot and stays hot.  The next project is temperature control.


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## begreen (Dec 7, 2009)

ZubaZ said:
			
		

> A follow-up.
> 
> Chimney sweep came by to clean the chimney and check out the  stove.
> It is in very good condition.  No need for any significant maintenance.  If I want to repaint . . more power to me.
> ...



Great news. It looks pretty sweet! 

Temp control should be easy. After the bypass damper is engaged, and the room temp is around where you like it, set the thermostatic air control so that the flapper just closes.


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## ZubaZ (Dec 7, 2009)

BeGreen said:
			
		

> Great news. It looks pretty sweet!
> 
> Temp control should be easy. After the bypass damper is engaged, and the room temp is around where you like it, set the thermostatic air control so that the flapper just closes.



I knew there was something there that could do it.  Thanks!

Tomorrow we try to find seasoned wood.  A bit late in the season . . . we'll see.


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## begreen (Dec 7, 2009)

The manual for the vintage VC stoves is posted here:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/Vermont_Castings_Older_Stove_Models/

And here is a short guide to running an old Resolute:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/Operate_an_older_VC_Resolute/


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## Jennifer Matteson (Feb 22, 2010)

Oh what a wonderful site I stumbled upon! I have been looking for years for info or a manual on my Resolute III.
I have a few questions I hope someone can answer.
First of all what are those vents on the stove pipe on Firestarter's stove pictured above?
I have a temp gauge placed about 6" from the top of the stove on the stove pipe.  I read someone's comment that it should be put directly on the stove top?
After looking at the manual I think I need to get a Stovepipe sheild as it iis only about 8.5"from the drywall!! Where do I find it, how is it attached and how far up should it go??
There is a heat sheild on the back of the stove and it is 8" from the wall to the heat sheild.  Is that safe?
Lately I am getting smoke in the room when I open the doors to load in more wood.  I have tried some adjustments and it still comes out.
The glass is very loose in the doors and there is space around it where I can see inside. Is there something that needs to be done about that? 
We use the stove constantly during the winter and the the paint/metal has become white in places. What causes that?
I know I have lots of questions and I would be ever so thankful if anybody can answer any of  them!


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## fbelec (Feb 22, 2010)

Jinxie said:
			
		

> Oh what a wonderful site I stumbled upon! I have been looking for years for info or a manual on my Resolute III.
> I have a few questions I hope someone can answer.
> First of all what are those vents on the stove pipe on Firestarter's stove pictured above?
> I have a temp gauge placed about 6" from the top of the stove on the stove pipe.  I read someone's comment that it should be put directly on the stove top?
> ...



sounds like you have a few problems with your stove, you might want to start a new thread and see if the good people here can help you out with a few of them.


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