# Refinishing or "Bluing" old axes



## boonefrog (Nov 15, 2010)

Got a nice (I'm told 1950's) double bit Collins Legitimus axe a few years back. Haven't put it to much use but I'm seriously considering trying to refinish it and some other axes/hatchets partly for aesthetics and partly to get them in better working order.

Does anyone have any experience with getting minor rust off and even "bluing" or other refinishing techniques. I ran across this project of a similar Collins axe and was inspired. http://backyardbushman.com/?p=152

Any advice, let's hear it!


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## EatenByLimestone (Nov 15, 2010)

What are you looking for with refinishing it?  Wall ornament, user, shiny like the pic, investment?

He didn't blue it, at least not yet.  My guess is he ran a deburring wheel over it.  If you want that look, wax it afterwards to keep any tarnish or rust off.  

If you want to use it, I'd go phosphoric acid to make sure all the rust is out of any pits.  Then you can buff and blue if you want.  The acid treatment will leave a phosphate coating that will retard rust.  

Edit to add: for investment/collectable status, the shiny pic ruined the value.  If you want it for investment, clean it lightly with 220  sandpaper lubed with mineral spirits.  If you want to clean further you can go to 150 but don't go too far to destroy the patina.

Matt


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## Adios Pantalones (Nov 15, 2010)

If you're bluing with heat/quenching, it may make it more brittle.  Be careful about annealing properly, don't overheat, and know what you're likely to run into with the tool.  If you'll be hitting the occasional rock etc then you risk chipping if it's hardened improperly.


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## EatenByLimestone (Nov 15, 2010)

I think he's talking about a rust prevention process:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluing_(steel)

Matt


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## Adios Pantalones (Nov 15, 2010)

Disregard what I said- I'm tired and talking out my butt.


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## geoffm24 (Nov 15, 2010)

Naval Jelly works great for getting minor rust off.  If you want to try your hand at blueing without getting into a hot blueing solution try Oxpho-Blue from Brownells www.brownells.com

For getting a shine on metal in good condition try some Flitz polish.  To get a polish like the guy in the thread you will need some polishing compound and a buffer wheel.  You will find a highly polished surface stays pretty rust free without blueing.  The best wax on the market for keeping metal rust free is Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax which Brownells also sells.  Renaissance wax is what the Springfield Armory Museum uses to protect their display firearms.


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## boonefrog (Nov 15, 2010)

All these options sounds nice! And yeah, I didn't know where to go with it.

To answer your question, Eaten, I'd like to use it (very) sporadically but still have it looking quite nice. I'm proud of it and it's my oldest axe so I'd like to show it off some too! What process do you all think I should use for protecting or finishing if this is the case?

 I did an initial sanding tonight and it looks like this (that's some sort of patina right?). I'll try the 220 grit w/ mineral spirits as a next step. I've also heard of dipping in vinegar to blue metal. Is this a good idea and how does it work?... Sorry for the photo quality but using my laptop's built-in while my girlfriend is borrowing the camera...


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## EatenByLimestone (Nov 15, 2010)

That looks great in my eyes.  I'd personally leave it like that and wax it using the Ren wax (or any other furniture quality wax without silicone) listed above. That way your tool has some protection but still retains collectable value should you ever need or want to sell it.  

I have an old single bit axe that I need to clean up a bit.  It was made locally and needs a rehandle and to be hung on the wall.  It was made around 1870 or so.  






Vinigar is an acid like the naval jelly (phosphoric acid) listed above and will remove rust, but it will leave a dull sheen.  Not necessarily a bad thing depending on what you plan to do with the axe, but it is hard to remove.  I'd reserve this for bare metal that will be outside in the elements often.  The last tool I used it on was a post vise that I wasn't sure if I'd be mounting out in the weather.  Many use it on auto bodies because it will work it's way down into the pitting and convert the rust.  

Don't forget to put some boiled (not raw) linseed oil on the handle.

Oh, and beware of collecting old handtools.  It's an extremely slippery slope and I'm too happy to shove people down it head first.

Matt


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## EatenByLimestone (Nov 15, 2010)

Should I post some pics of hewing axes and hatchets? Saws?  Peaveys?  How about planes and such?   (Seriously, this stuff is addicting, and when you find out that all of it is still as useful as when it was made it gets worse.)

Matt


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## Battenkiller (Nov 15, 2010)

EatenByLimestone said:
			
		

> Should I post some pics of hewing axes and hatchets? Saws?  Peaveys?  How about planes and such?   (Seriously, this stuff is addicting, and when you find out that all of it is still as useful as when it was made it gets worse.)



Sure, let's see 'em!  Sounds like you may have even more than I do.... which is just totally sick, I might add.

Sick as in "wicked cool", not as in demented.... which we both already suspect we are, I'm sure.

BTW I have the same Dorpian axe you show.  It is my favorite splitting axe and looks it.  25 years of use and abuse, handle chewed near the head from the boys overshooting the rounds, the poll peened over from hitting it with a sledge (came that way), etc.  All the wrong things you can do with an axe when you pay $1 for it at a yard sale.


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## EatenByLimestone (Nov 15, 2010)

I started a new thread in Gear so we didn't hijack this one any further.  Please contribute so I don't feel alone in my addiction.

Matt


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## Adios Pantalones (Nov 15, 2010)

I love axes with old company stamps on them.  Beautiful.  I have some old draw knives and other tools that I rescued/rehabbed years ago.  It's wild to look at the wear on them and think about the user generations ago.


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## boonefrog (Nov 15, 2010)

Oops! I guess the "Gear" forum is where i should have posted this eh? 
what would sanding with 220 and mineral spirits do to the appearance/longevity of this axe?


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## smokinj (Nov 15, 2010)

boonefrog said:
			
		

> Oops! I guess the "Gear" forum is where i should have posted this eh?
> what would sanding with 220 and mineral spirits do to the appearance/longevity of this axe?



I don't know but following this thread to see how you do! I just pick up 3 very old ax's late last night I would like them looking good as well.


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## Jags (Nov 15, 2010)

I had an old axe that sat in the corner for quite some time.  Ended up with a little surface rust.  I decided that I was going to clean it up the old fashioned way - I took it out and split wood - darn thing shined right up.

If you are planning on using it as well as show it - go with wax.  If you blue it (or any other type of "finish"), when you go to use it, the finish will become worn and splotchy looking.  Just wax it back up when you are done using it.


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## boonefrog (Nov 15, 2010)

Is there a relatively cheap and easy to use wax that you'd recommend - available at Lowes or Home Depot??


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## Jags (Nov 15, 2010)

boonefrog said:
			
		

> Is there a relatively cheap and easy to use wax that you'd recommend - available at Lowes or Home Depot??



For bare metal, use furniture (no silicon) grade wax.

If you are really looking to go the distance, look up CorrosionX:

http://corrosionxproducts.com/corrosionxpage.htm


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## EatenByLimestone (Nov 15, 2010)

boonefrog said:
			
		

> Is there a relatively cheap and easy to use wax that you'd recommend - available at Lowes or Home Depot??



The box stores used to sell Minwax furniture wax.  It used to come in both light and dark.  It doesn't matter which one you choose.  

Sanding with 220 and mineral spirits.  MS does two things, it lubricates the paper and cleans or lifts the dirt.  Instead of a bunch of dust you get swarth, kind of a yicky (technical term) paste of gunk.  Wet and dry sandpaper will last the longest.  

To be honest, it looks cleaned enough to me.  If you do much more you will take away the patina and then there would be no difference between a new axe and the old.  

I like my tools looking used but well cared for.  Some patina is fine on them.

Matt


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## boonefrog (Nov 15, 2010)

EatenByLimestone said:
			
		

> If you do much more you will take away the patina and then there would be no difference between a new axe and the old.



I just want to get rid off the lines that formed with my strokes form the first sanding when I used a Dremel sanding wheel (the ones shaped like a little donut). Will it help with this?


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## EatenByLimestone (Nov 15, 2010)

If you sand with a finer grained sandpaper in a different direction than the scratches it will.  Keep going finer until you can't see the scratches anymore.  

Matt


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