# Processing firewood for beginners



## mcstatz5829 (Nov 18, 2018)

In my area there is a lot of free “firewood” on craigslist, usually a felled tree in someone’s yard they want gone without paying someone.  I’m don’t think I can process the 4 cords I need for next year without making a big time and $ investment, but I figure with some basic gear and a little weekend warrioring I get 1-2 and save a little money.

I don’t plan on felling trees basically ever, and I don’t plan on messing with rounds more than 18” in diameter until I have more experience.  I figure I will need to get pretty good and limbing and bucking.  I really don’t want to bleed to death in someone’s backyard.  I feel pretty good about my splitting technique

I’ve starting a course of study at the University of Google and Youtube.  

What I have so far:
Maul
Axe (probably won’t use it, I’m guessing)
Chainsaw
Wedges
Sledgehammer
Grand Cherokee (with tow package)
Eye and Ear Protection
Steel toed boots

What I’d like to save up for in the next year or two:
Splitter
Trailer
Log holder

I figure the cargobed of the grand Cherokee can hold about a week’s worth of wood.  So if do one load over 8 weekends this winter, I can get a decent amount ready for next year and build a cheap kiln

What other gear should I consider?  Chaps?  Other clothing?

What’s the best way to buck the right lengths for my stove?  Tape measure and score?

Any other advice you experienced pros can hand down?


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## bholler (Nov 18, 2018)

Yes chaps and protective helmet


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## Renovationman (Nov 18, 2018)

X2 ^^^^ and you’ll get used to length you want to cut after a while so no need to measure.


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## BIGChrisNH (Nov 18, 2018)

Wear chaps every time you cut, it just makes sense. Nick your thigh one time with a running chainsaw and you’ll see what I mean. A splitter will drastically speed up processing time. I work full time and split on the weekends and with my wife’s help was able to cut, split and stack six cords from early September through early November this year. I can’t stress the chaps enough though.


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## jetsam (Nov 18, 2018)

My trailer was cheaper than any of my chainsaws, but I did watch Craigslist for about 6 months for it.

There is nothing a splitter can do that you can't do with a sledge and a bunch of wedges; in fact, the sledge'n'wedge is more versatile.  I have a splitter but view it as a luxury item.

If you are scrounging Craigslist for wood, you'll probably meet some tree service guys on job sites. Ask them to give you a call if they ever need to drop off a load of trees!


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## weatherguy (Nov 18, 2018)

I have a 20 inch stick I keep in my vehicle, I use a piece of chalk and mark off the logs. I used to freewheel but I end up with too many rounds to fit on my splitter.


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## jetsam (Nov 18, 2018)

I think my best advice is "score all the softwood you can this year".  Pine, fir, poplar, whatever.... get it split, stacked, and covered this winter and it'll all be ready to go next year.  Grab the hardwoods too, but set them aside for years to come.  It's a waste to burn them wet.


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## woodhog73 (Nov 18, 2018)

Chaps and ear protection for sure. 

As for measuring your rounds, How long is the bar on your chainsaw ? For example an 18 inch bar probably has about 16 inches of usable length. Well a darn perfect measuring stick for 16 inch rounds. use your bar length to measure your rounds ( if it’s the right size obviously )

It’s very rewarding to process your own firewood and use it to add heat to your home.


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## jatoxico (Nov 18, 2018)

Get a file for the chain saw. Frequent touch ups using that will make life much easier and avoid unnecessary abuse of the equipment and you. I hand split and much prefer the Fiskars splitting ax so the maul, hammer and wedges only gets occasional use.

Used a Cherokee Sport (now deceased) to haul a bunch of wood. Small scores add up.


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## Anduril (Nov 18, 2018)

Lot's of great posts.  +1 on the Fiskars splitting axe - single best wood processing investment I've ever made.  Agree with all the safety gear posts - I would add steel-toed boots if you plan on working with heavy rounds or doing any felling; I've learned that lesson the hard way.  If you don't mind spending a bit more you can get chainsaw-rated boots with a steel toe.


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## FaithfulWoodsman (Nov 18, 2018)

All  great posts. Fiskars axe is super nice. Maul for knots. I also use the bar to buck to length. Id get an extra chain. I hand file and then use a granberg bar mount electric sharpener to get to factory sharp. I hear a lot of good things about the stihl 3 in 1 though. 5 gal bucket with a tool insert cover makes a nice way to haul all the small gear. Pickaroon.  First aid kit.


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## Jan Pijpelink (Nov 18, 2018)

FaithfulWoodsman said:


> All  great posts. Fiskars axe is super nice. Maul for knots. I also use the bar to buck to length. Id get an extra chain. I hand file and then use a granberg bar mount electric sharpener to get to factory sharp. I hear a lot of good things about the stihl 3 in 1 though. 5 gal bucket with a tool insert cover makes a nice way to haul all the small gear. Pickaroon.  First aid kit.


What he said.


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## weatherguy (Nov 19, 2018)

Anduril said:


> Lot's of great posts.  +1 on the Fiskars splitting axe - single best wood processing investment I've ever made.  Agree with all the safety gear posts - I would add steel-toed boots if you plan on working with heavy rounds or doing any felling; I've learned that lesson the hard way.  If you don't mind spending a bit more you can get chainsaw-rated boots with a steel toe.


Lol. I still have a toe not right from an accident, those rounds are heavy, toe dont look right, actually have done it twice to the same toe, how dumb am I.


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## jetsam (Nov 19, 2018)

Having tested the fiskars and my old maul side by side a number of times, I really don't think the fiskars is any more capable than the old maul.  What it is, though is lighter.  You won't care on the first whack but you'll appreciate it on the hundredth whack.

The fiskars is just as good a splitter as an old 6# maul, which is an impressive engineering feat given that it is a much lighter tool.

The handle is also ideal for beginners because overstrikes don't seem to hurt it (and also don't immediately punish the user).  (All you kids who learned to split wood with a Fiskars, stay away from my maul, because y'all will break the handle!)

So I'd put it down as a luxury also, but it's a nice one.  I grab the Fiskars almost every time I need a maul.


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## jatoxico (Nov 19, 2018)

jetsam said:


> The fiskars is just as good a splitter as an old 6# maul, which is an impressive engineering feat given that it is a much lighter tool.



Well engineered but mostly it's the physics. It's all about head speed.

To the OP the Fiskars ax isn't pricey and they are very good with customer service in case that's needed.


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## jetsam (Nov 19, 2018)

jatoxico said:


> It's all about head speed.



Disagree.  I can swing a double bitted felling axe faster than the fiskars or a maul, but the fiskars and maul both split way better!  The splitting axe just gets stuck in the wood because it doesn't force the split far enough apart to pop the grain.


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## mcstatz5829 (Nov 19, 2018)

jetsam said:


> The handle is also ideal for beginners because overstrikes don't seem to hurt it (and also don't immediately punish the user).



Idk, stings the hell out of my hands, even when wearing gloves!


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## jatoxico (Nov 19, 2018)

jetsam said:


> Disagree.  I can swing a double bitted felling axe faster than the fiskars or a maul, but the fiskars and maul both split way better!  The splitting axe just gets stuck in the wood because it doesn't force the split far enough apart to pop the grain.



You had compared to 6 lb maul so basically the difference between mass and speed. The sharpness, the slick coating, the flared cheeks all go into it but in the end (as I bet you know) velocity squares when calculating force. I think I could swing a double headed ax about the same speed but as you said and I agree Fiskar's head is nicely engineered for splitting.


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## lost in the woods (Nov 19, 2018)

I know this originally isn't a Fiskars thread- HOWEVER!  after using the traditional 8lb and 6lb mauls and also an assortment of homemade monstrosities;  I will say the Fiskars is the nicest piece I have ever used for splitting wood.  anyway back to the orginal topic- yes don't goof around with a sick to measure just use your saw bar! lots of good advice in this thread for the newbie


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Nov 19, 2018)

Renovationman said:


> X2 ^^^^ and you’ll get used to length you want to cut after a while so no need to measure.


Depends on your setup.  I've been at this for 30 years, and to me, it's worth every moment spent measuring and marking to avoid pieces just a little too long, particularly when loading on a hot bed of coals.  Just a piece of wood cut to the right length or a tape measure or yardstick, and some dollar store sidewalk chalk.


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## mcstatz5829 (Nov 19, 2018)

ED 3000 said:


> Depends on your setup.  I've been at this for 30 years, and to me, it's worth every moment spent measuring and marking to avoid pieces just a little to long, particularly when loading on a hot bed of coals.  Just a piece of wood cut to the right length or a tape measure or yardstick, and some dollar store sidewalk chalk.



I think I’ll try that


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## Montanalocal (Nov 19, 2018)

I will sure second that ED, and I think at my age a bit of a rest is very welcome now and then when bucking.  Plus, I do not appreciate having to heft my heavy bucking saw up sideways at each cut.  I also do not use a marker or chalk to make the mark.  I carry a small compact hand trimer saw, and make an actual cut in the bark.  This works better if the wood is wet, and is still visible several days later if I have to come back and buck later and it has rained.


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## woodhog73 (Nov 20, 2018)

ED 3000 said:


> Depends on your setup.  I've been at this for 30 years, and to me, it's worth every moment spent measuring and marking to avoid pieces just a little too long, particularly when loading on a hot bed of coals.  Just a piece of wood cut to the right length or a tape measure or yardstick, and some dollar store sidewalk chalk.



Agree. I’ve only been burning in my stove for a few years. But been making firewood for many years to burn outside cooking down maple syrup and to help different family members with their bolier and a big indoor wood furnace.

Then I get a stove that barely fits 16 inch splits. The first year was a pain constantly going through my stacks to find smaller pieces, putting in too long a split on hot coals then having to take it out or rearrange it, not being able to fit the splits in tightly to pack the stove full, etc.

If you have a small stove measure your splits.


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## Modenacart (Nov 20, 2018)

I would get some plastic wedges too if you don’t already have them. They help with bucking and won’t dull the chain on your saw if you accidentally hit them. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Nov 20, 2018)

Montanalocal said:


> I will sure second that ED, and I think at my age a bit of a rest is very welcome now and then when bucking.  Plus, I do not appreciate having to heft my heavy bucking saw up sideways at each cut.  I also do not use a marker or chalk to make the mark.  I carry a small compact hand trimer saw, and make an actual cut in the bark.  This works better if the wood is wet, and is still visible several days later if I have to come back and buck later and it has rained.


Agree all around.  I've used the trimmer saw, and it definitely makes better marks under many conditions, and more permanent.  It is a little more time consuming and effort, but definitely part of the complete marking toolkit.  And I really don't like using the bar of the saw, as you said, it's just too heavy to be swinging it around like that.

Regarding the extra time it takes, I have tried to strike a balance between expediancy and deliberation.  Marking the wood strikes the right balance for me.


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## bholler (Nov 20, 2018)

ED 3000 said:


> Agree all around.  I've used the trimmer saw, and it definitely makes better marks under many conditions, and more permanent.  It is a little more time consuming and effort, but definitely part of the complete marking toolkit.  And I really don't like using the bar of the saw, as you said, it's just too heavy to be swinging it around like that.
> 
> Regarding the extra time it takes, I have tried to strike a balance between expediancy and deliberation.  Marking the wood strikes the right balance for me.


I just use a hatchett or billhook to mark with


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## jetsam (Nov 20, 2018)

I just eyeball it.  Usually it turns out okay. When I find something that I cut too long, I usually set it aside with the odds 'n' sods, and burn it diagonally on my next day off.  (I COULD trim it down, but burning it always seems easier.)


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## Chas0218 (Nov 20, 2018)

For measuring I use a piece of round stock bent in a vise to the length I need and ends sharpend to a point. Stick one end into the bark drag the other across and repeat all the way down the log. Make sure you use a little pressure or you won't see the marks. Keep an eye out for a trailer on craigslist for now you could load your Jeep with it on a tarp or blanket (tarp is better because it's waterproof). If you're limited to scrounging then it will be tough at least is in my area. If you can afford or have the room a log length firewood delivery you would be cutting out the hauling or scrounging part. You would also possibly have 2 years supply.


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## Ashful (Nov 20, 2018)

mcstatz5829 said:


> In my area there is a lot of free “firewood” on craigslist, usually a felled tree in someone’s yard they want gone without paying someone.  I’m don’t think I can process the 4 cords I need for next year without making a big time and $ investment, but I figure with some basic gear and a little weekend warrioring I get 1-2 and save a little money.
> 
> I don’t plan on felling trees basically ever, and I don’t plan on messing with rounds more than 18” in diameter until I have more experience.  I figure I will need to get pretty good and limbing and bucking.  I really don’t want to bleed to death in someone’s backyard.  I feel pretty good about my splitting technique
> 
> ...


Helmets are mostly for felling, definitely prioritize the chaps over the helmet. 

For marking, I carry a stick cut to the max split length for my stove.  I spiral-tape it with masking tape and shoot it with blaze orange paint, so I can never lose it in the woods.  I did the same with my cant hook and wedge hammer.

Some use driveway chalk or a surveyors crayon with the stick for marking, but I prefer to just score the log with my top handle saw.  Run what you brung. 



ED 3000 said:


> Regarding the extra time it takes, I have tried to strike a balance between expediancy and deliberation.  Marking the wood strikes the right balance for me.


If you’re trying to get the most out of your stoves, then you need every split to be exactly what will fit and fill that firebox.  No sense in cutting random lengths, when it only takes a few seconds to mark out a 1 cord log.  Mark away!


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## jetsam (Nov 20, 2018)

Here's a beginners' tip for us old guys: Be nice to your back.

When you throw it out trying to rassle a 48" oak trunk around, you won't be processing any wood at all.  Not very fast, anyway.

Use your brain and your gear instead of trying to be Hercules.  A block and tackle/power winch and a cant hook/Peavey can help with big stuff.  If you buck in the woods, take a maul with you- why heave huge rounds into the truck when you could be lifting splits instead?  And have a plan B (I am not splitting that gnarly old 36" crotch with a maul; I'll drag it up the ramp with a  come-along and feed it to the splitter later.)

Safety too- if you drop a tree on yourself, you will probably be very sorry, and you may not even be able to reach your beer to help with the pain of all the shattered ribs.  Always plan for the hinge to break unexpectedly, and plan for the tree to fall in any direction. This is a good practice in general, but with rotten standing dead stuff, it really does often break and fall in a random direction. I have seen rotten stuff rotate on the stump and fall in a direction they weren't leaning a second ago once the hinge goes.  Sometimes cutting dead trees higher up can get you better wood to hinge with.

Learning to drop a tree right where you want it is great, but things don't always happen as planned.  Have at least two escape routes, hopefully with good cover nearby, planned. (In this context, 'good cover' is a tree that is larger than the tree you are dropping so you can hide behind it as a last resort.)  Stop before the bar starts getting even a little pinch and use your wedges.  Don't be afraid to say that a tree is too dangerous to drop and you're not going to do it.


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## Modenacart (Nov 20, 2018)

A guy we work with was killed a few weeks back felling trees before the hurricane.  

Be careful. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jetsam (Nov 20, 2018)

I kind of dig running for my life with a chainsaw in my hand, but it's not for everyone.  In particular, people who think it's fun probably shouldn't be allowed to do it.


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## Ashful (Nov 20, 2018)

I hit a guy with a falling tree, once.  His fault, I stopped and told him twice to get out of its path, but he kept wandering back to the spot where I was aiming to drop it.  So, I finish my back cut, look ahead to where I’ve perfectly aimed it, and he’s standing there... again.

I yell, he looks up and turns to run, but too late.  The tree caught him mid-jump, and sent him cartwheeling off thru the woods like a cartoon character.  No permanent damage, but he was very sore for a few days.

He was lucky that it was only a small diameter tree, growing very tall in the dense woods, but probably only 8” - 10” diameter at breast height.  I was dropping it to make a path to get the tractor to this monster:


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## mcstatz5829 (Nov 20, 2018)

No way am I felling trees.  Plenty of free fallen ones around


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## jetsam (Nov 20, 2018)

Ashful said:


> I hit a guy with a falling tree, once.  His fault, I stopped and told him twice to get out of its path, but he kept wandering back to the spot where I was aiming to drop it.  So, I finish my back cut, look ahead to where I’ve perfectly aimed it, and he’s standing there... again.
> 
> I yell, he looks up and turns to run, but too late.  The tree caught him mid-jump, and sent him cartwheeling off thru the woods like a cartoon character.  No permanent damage, but he was very sore for a few days.
> 
> ...



Ooh, baby. Tow that one over to my place.


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## weatherguy (Nov 20, 2018)

mcstatz5829 said:


> No way am I felling trees.  Plenty of free fallen ones around


Yeah, it's been a while since I've dropped a tree, tons of wood already on the ground.


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## woodhog73 (Nov 20, 2018)

Modenacart said:


> A guy we work with was killed a few weeks back felling trees before the hurricane.
> 
> Be careful.



Sorry to hear this. And good to remind everyone to be careful.

Dropping big trees can be very dangerous. I myself take it for granted as I have been felling trees since I was a kid. Just grew up with it. But regardless if your an experienced tree dropper or not, accidents can happen, and if you have doubts to your ability to safely drop a big tree, then don’t do it. In my experience if you have to think about it, as in the tree your wanting to fell doesn’t just come natural, if your second guessing it, then perhaps walk away and find a safer tree to drop. Firewood is not worth anyones safety.


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## KJamesJR (Nov 20, 2018)

All of these folks have made great suggestions thus far for a solo fire wood processing weekend warrior.

You don’t need to spend mucho bucks on gear, you also don’t want to cheap out on the gear with moving parts. Like your chainsaw.

PPE. So safety glasses, chaps, earplugs, steel toes, form fitting gloves (not loose), first aid kit (with blood stoppers), cell phone on your person. Warm socks/clothes. You don’t need a helmet if you’re not cutting above your shoulders. Although if your timid about kickback, you may want a helmet with a face mask. Or just don’t put your saw in a situation where it’s going to kickback. I.e. don’t hit the top of the nose on something.

Good chainsaw. Don’t cheap out here. As well as bar oil fuel and additive. Files and extra chain.

Buck your logs maybe an inch or two under the manufacture specs for the stove. I cut a stick to length and use my daughters blue sidewalk chalk.

Also for small rounds, or large straight rounds (not full of knots), you really only need something like a fiskars. They work really nice. Just get the right size and it won’t be stinging your hands. Or man up.

In my opinion, bucking big logs is just as scary if not more than dropping the tree. There’s weight distribution and forces at work you can’t see when it’s on the ground. Hate for you to make a cut then have a 4000lb log roll up onto your shin.


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## Montanalocal (Nov 20, 2018)

I consider a must-have to be a peavey or something similar to roll logs when bucking.  I never go into the woods without one.


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## tsquini (Nov 21, 2018)

Saftey gear is a must. Eye, chaps, gloves. 
You have to decide is the effort is worth the reward. I don't drive more than 20 mins to pick up wood. The gas, effort and time is more worth it. It is better to get 9 cords of logs delivered for $900 a year. It's all on my land with in feet of stacking.  I don't want to deal with craigs list bitches who want me to clean up their yard for free wood.


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## woodhog73 (Nov 21, 2018)

KJamesJR said:


> In my opinion, bucking big logs is just as scary if not more than dropping the tree. There’s weight distribution and forces at work you can’t see when it’s on the ground. Hate for you to make a cut then have a 4000lb log roll up onto your shin.



Just a reminder when bucking big heavy logs stand on the high side of the tree log. If it starts to shift and roll you want to be on the high side so it rolls away from you. Simple matter of gravity at work. It sounds obvious but people new to cutting trees, especially big wood, sometimes don’t think of small details. And I’m not talking about an obvious hill. When your dealing with a oak tree that’s 3 feet around and 2 stories tall it doesn’t take much grade to have it shift just slightly it if it has any kind of momentum. 

Until you learn about tension on the tree, how best to buck so you don’t pinch your bar, etc then I’d suggest having wedges for bucking. They will keep the wood from closing up on your bar and pinching it. Avoiding you the frustrating situation of yanking on your saw to no end. And if you don’t have a 2nd saw to cut out the pinched saw it sucks. We have all been there. That’s how you learn


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Nov 21, 2018)

woodhog73 said:


> Just a reminder when bucking big heavy logs stand on the high side of the tree log. If it starts to shift and roll you want to be on the high side so it rolls away from you. Simple matter of gravity at work. It sounds obvious but people new to cutting trees, especially big wood, sometimes don’t think of small details.
> 
> Until you learn about tension on the tree, how best to buck so you don’t pinch your bar, etc then I’d suggest having wedges for bucking. They will keep the wood from closing up on your bar and pinching it. Avoiding you the frustrating situation of yanking on your saw to no end. And if you don’t have a 2nd saw to cut out the pinched saw it sucks. We have all been there. That’s how you learn


Wedges are great even after you learn about the tensions!


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## jetsam (Nov 21, 2018)

Don't despair if you don't have wedges. Cut a little lopsided slice off of a branch, and boom, free wedge.  They're arguably better for bucking (not felling,) because you don't feel bad about cutting them and you don't have to wander around looking for them later!

The above wedge discussion was about felling wedges, not splitting wedges. The latter is steel, used to drive into wood rounds to split them apart.  The former is plastic or wood, used to drive into cuts to stop the bar from getting pinched or to control the direction that the tree falls.


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Nov 21, 2018)

jetsam said:


> Don't despair if you don't have wedges. Cut a little lopsided slice off of a branch, and boom, free wedge.  They're arguably better because you don't feel bad about cutting them and you don't have to wander around looking for them later!


Great idea.  Wish I'd thought of diy wedges before.


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## KJamesJR (Nov 21, 2018)

woodhog73 said:


> Just a reminder when bucking big heavy logs stand on the high side of the tree log. If it starts to shift and roll you want to be on the high side so it rolls away from you. Simple matter of gravity at work. It sounds obvious but people new to cutting trees, especially big wood, sometimes don’t think of small details. And I’m not talking about an obvious hill. When your dealing with a oak tree that’s 3 feet around and 2 stories tall it doesn’t take much grade to have it shift just slightly it if it has any kind of momentum.
> 
> Until you learn about tension on the tree, how best to buck so you don’t pinch your bar, etc then I’d suggest having wedges for bucking. They will keep the wood from closing up on your bar and pinching it. Avoiding you the frustrating situation of yanking on your saw to no end. And if you don’t have a 2nd saw to cut out the pinched saw it sucks. We have all been there. That’s how you learn


Just to add to this...

If you're bucking a tree with a couple big co-dominant leaders, I've found it best to work from the top taking the leaders down to the trunk. Section them out as you go and if possible, roll the log to get the weight off them. Never put yourself between two big limbs when its on the ground. Cut them back keeping them in front of you. Think Pac Man. 

For pinched chains, consider taking a long, maybe 6' pry bar or pipe. If you've pinched the chain, often times taking even a little pressure off the chain by lifting up from the bottom of the log, you can free it. You'll need the length of the pipe long for leverage.


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## mcstatz5829 (Nov 21, 2018)

How do I handle forks?


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## Mojappa (Nov 21, 2018)

mcstatz5829 said:


> How do I handle forks?
> 
> View attachment 233886


I split as much as I can off of them, then the remainder goes into the ugly pile. basically you'll wanna "slice" the splits off parallel with the fork, or save them all and rent a splitter once you've got a good pile of them


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Nov 21, 2018)

mcstatz5829 said:


> How do I handle forks?
> 
> View attachment 233886


Chop chop!


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## jatoxico (Nov 21, 2018)

mcstatz5829 said:


> How do I handle forks?
> 
> View attachment 233886



I'm stubborn (stupid) enough to have done a number of these. Only reasonable way it will split ist length-wise leaving two "Y's". Most will split up to the crotch then take advantage of how sharp the Fiskars and to cut through that. If you can stand it on the legs go at it from that end too.

Of course it's a complete waste of time and effort but I do it anyway. Smarter thing to do is halve it with a chain saw. Probably the smartest thing to do is burn it in the fire pit but as I said I've done a number of these.


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## Montanalocal (Nov 21, 2018)

I had a bad experience with a crotch some time ago.  I had a large crotch from a municipal Green Ash.  My 16 T. splitter would not handle it trying to split up the center of the crotch, so I figured to just chainsaw down through the Y to get through the hardest part.  

Well, the chain saw simply would not cut down through the crotch.  I tried several times, but no go.  Eventually by using a splitting wedge, I got it opened up, and guess what?  There was a big rock that had fallen into the crotch and had grown over. I took the chain to my sharpener guys, and they said it was ruined and could not be resharpened.  Just goes to show that municipal trees can have all kinds of things in them that forest trees do not.  I have seen cloths line connectors, fencing, etc. you name it.


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## jetsam (Nov 22, 2018)

If you really want, you can break crotches up into chunks with a sledge and wedge.

The one in the picture is small and straight grained enough that you can maul it.







Do those two splits. The further away from the middle you do them, the easier they will be.

If the remaining crotch is still too big to go in the stove on Uglies Day, bear in mind 2 things:  Wood splits with the grain, and the grain in the remaining part is a big U shape.  You can saw it it half but you can't get through it along grain lines.  That particular piece is so small that maybe you could hack through it, but bigger crotches will be harder.  The easiest way to deal with unmanageable crotches is to chip off chunks with the grain until what remains fits in the stove.  You can cheat and just saw it down the middle with your chainsaw. I won't tell.

Honestly, the piece in the photo looks a little like it might break right in half if you give it a good whack right in the middle. Sometimes they do (usually not though).

Gnarly stuff is extra dense and burns great!


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Nov 22, 2018)

jetsam said:


> If you really want, you can break crotches up into chunks with a sledge and wedge.
> 
> The one in the picture is small and straight grained enough that you can maul it.
> 
> ...


Wow, Jetsam, that's a really well written and accurate lesson on crotches, with graphics even added.  Impressive!


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## Hasufel (Nov 22, 2018)

jetsam said:


> If you really want, you can break crotches up into chunks with a sledge and wedge.
> 
> The one in the picture is small and straight grained enough that you can maul it.



Great overview. Also worth noting that crotches can be tricky because the grain and/or the overall geometry can cause axes to bounce or ricochet in unexpected ways, so extra caution is needed. Just ask my shin.


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## SpaceBus (Nov 22, 2018)

I spent ten minutes on a birch crotch yesterday and nothing would work. My 3.5 splitting axe couldn't do it, my 4lb hammer and wedge failed, and even the 6lb maul and wedge together couldn't do it. I tried laying it flat and using a sledge and the steel wedge, still nothing. Finally I gave up after getting it small enough to fit in the stove, and the rest is kindling


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## edyit (Nov 22, 2018)

hydraulics are amazing when it comes to this


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## Modenacart (Nov 22, 2018)

woodhog73 said:


> Sorry to hear this. And good to remind everyone to be careful.
> 
> Dropping big trees can be very dangerous. I myself take it for granted as I have been felling trees since I was a kid. Just grew up with it. But regardless if your an experienced tree dropper or not, accidents can happen, and if you have doubts to your ability to safely drop a big tree, then don’t do it. In my experience if you have to think about it, as in the tree your wanting to fell doesn’t just come natural, if your second guessing it, then perhaps walk away and find a safer tree to drop. Firewood is not worth anyones safety.



I didn’t really know the guy.  He just sat on the other side of the cube.   Word was he made some really bad decisions and was in the direction the tree was leaning.  

My office must be a killer place to work though, about two weeks ago a guy dropped dead one morning from an aneurysm. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## weatherguy (Nov 22, 2018)

ED 3000 said:


> Wow, Jetsam, that's a really well written and accurate lesson on crotches, with graphics even added.  Impressive!


Jetsam knows crotches.


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Nov 22, 2018)

weatherguy said:


> Jetsam knows crotches.


Well that took long enough!


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## jetsam (Nov 22, 2018)

Here's the sexiest crotch lesson of all: When you stick a big pointy steel ram in the crotch and apply 25 tons of pressure, there is a loud crunching noise and possibly some flying bits, and that puppy gets torn right in half. (Usually.)

Sweet dreams!


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Nov 22, 2018)

jetsam said:


> Here's the sexiest crotch lesson of all: When you stick a big pointy steel ram in the crotch and apply 25 tons of pressure, there is a loud crunching noise and possibly some flying bits, and that puppy gets torn right in half. (Usually.)
> 
> Sweet dreams!


I have a big pile of super stubborn oak crotches that I've been putting off, I was gonna borrow the neighbors hydraulic splitter, but after reading this, I'm just gonna carve them into cookies with the chainsaw.  Probably would've broken the splitter anyway.


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## mcstatz5829 (Nov 22, 2018)

Well, that took an unexpected turn.


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## jetsam (Nov 22, 2018)

ED 3000 said:


> I have a big pile of super stubborn oak crotches that I've been putting off, I was gonna borrow the neighbors hydraulic splitter, but after reading this, I'm just gonna carve them into cookies with the chainsaw.  Probably would've broken the splitter anyway.



Mine actually crunches right through them, but I have no doubt that some of them are hard on the splitter.


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## Kevin Weis (Nov 22, 2018)

A two stage should go through them albeit slow it down till it pops.  Have a 28 ton TSC and hasn't had a crotch it couldn't master☺️.  Kevin


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## Ashful (Nov 23, 2018)

Here, crotches get left in the woods or busted up on the hydraulic splitter, and then thrown directly into the firewood pit with any bark scraps and other splitter swarf.  I would not bother trying to cleanly split and stack a crotch, your time is better spent on your clean straight wood, unless you have a shortage of it.


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## jetsam (Nov 23, 2018)

I can see why a commercial processor would skip them, but I've always broken them up. It's above average firewood for days when you are around to feed uglies into the stove.  In addition to uglies, you can get a couple flats/rounds off the sides with a maul, and you can sometimes get all flat (but u-shaped) pieces out of the middle with a splitter.

If it was all about the value of my time, I'd have solar panels, a battery bank, and electric heat.

My bonfire pile gets all the bugwood. I have more than I want every year without adding the uglies.


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## Easy Livin’ 3000 (Nov 23, 2018)

jetsam said:


> I can see why a commercial processor would skip them, but I've always broken them up. It's above average firewood for days when you are around to feed uglies into the stove.  In addition to uglies, you can get a couple flats/rounds off the sides with a maul, and you can sometimes get all flat (but u-shaped) pieces out of the middle with a splitter.
> 
> If it was all about the value of my time, I'd have solar panels, a battery bank, and electric heat.
> 
> My bonfire pile gets all the bugwood. I have more than I want every year without adding the uglies.


Agreed, Jetsam.  Loads of btus in that dense wood, and there's something about the challenge. Plus I hate waste, and what else do I have to do?


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## jetsam (Nov 23, 2018)

Ashful cranks out big beautiful stacks in a fraction of the time it takes me, so there's not a right and wrong answer here, just what floats your particular boat.


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## jatoxico (Nov 23, 2018)

jetsam said:


> It's above average firewood for days when you are around to feed uglies into the stove. I



This is true. Besides now an then one gives it up easy. This of course means I get sucked in and once I've started one of us has to break. Really once I'm outside enjoying the day a couple extra whacks doesn't bother me.


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## coutufr (Nov 23, 2018)

When it’s really cold outside is when I split my hard to split wood. I split with a wedge, a maul and a sledge hammer. I do use the chainsaw on occasion to speed things up![emoji3526] Btw is honey locust easier to split when cold (way below freezing)? I tried to split a small piece this summer with the maul and it was impossible to split.....


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## jetsam (Nov 23, 2018)

Splitting elm is best done when it's below 0F.  -10 is good, -30 is awesome!  Elm is a workout most of the time.

Most woods pop apart real easily when it is very cold out.

Never tried honey locust but it wouldn't surprise me.


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## SpaceBus (Nov 23, 2018)

jetsam said:


> Splitting elm is best done when it's below 0F.  -10 is good, -30 is awesome!  Elm is a workout most of the time.
> 
> Most woods pop apart real easily when it is very cold out.
> 
> Never tried honey locust but it wouldn't surprise me.


I've always assumed it was more difficult when cold. 95% of the wood I've split in my life was pine or spruce and during winter. I've split a little bit of stuff during the summer, but it was giant oak rounds that had been sitting for a year. Most of that was done with an 8 lb sledge and a 5 lb splitting wedge with wood sitting horizontal.


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## jetsam (Nov 23, 2018)

SpaceBus said:


> I've always assumed it was more difficult when cold. 95% of the wood I've split in my life was pine or spruce and during winter. I've split a little bit of stuff during the summer, but it was giant oak rounds that had been sitting for a year. Most of that was done with an 8 lb sledge and a 5 lb splitting wedge with wood sitting horizontal.



No way, splitting oak when it's subzero makes you feel like hercules!


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## weatherguy (Nov 23, 2018)

Most hardwoods split better frozen, I have some hickory I'm going to split soon, it was a bear when I tried in the warmer weather.


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## wooduser (Nov 24, 2018)

There's a scene in the movie "Sometimes a Great Notion"  that's a sobering reminder about the hazards of dropping trees...  That scene is in this trailer.

Quite a movie,  too.

A hugely dangerous occupation.

Not many REAL men working since OSHA took the death out of the working world.... mostly.


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## SpaceBus (Nov 24, 2018)

wooduser said:


> There's a scene in the movie "Sometimes a Great Notion"  that's a sobering reminder about the hazards of dropping trees...  That scene is in this trailer.
> 
> Quite a movie,  too.
> 
> ...




First, real man doesn't mean anything. Second, there would be MORE "real men" working since there are less deaths. Seems like a lot of guys don't think safety is cool or manly. PPE has saved my ass in several situations in which I would have died or been crippled with out it. I'd rather be alive and unmaimed than manly or cool.


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## GettinBy (Nov 27, 2018)

Once upon a time I knew this surveyer. He was definitely a wood miser. He always had a stick that was the length of wood he wanted, and he used a shot of spray paint to mark the wood length. He used a different color every year, and kept a log of all the colors and years. I eyeball all my cuts and they always seem to be a little short of the 22” I could be getting.


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## SpaceBus (Nov 27, 2018)

GettinBy said:


> Once upon a time I knew this surveyer. He was definitely a wood miser. He always had a stick that was the length of wood he wanted, and he used a shot of spray paint to mark the wood length. He used a different color every year, and kept a log of all the colors and years. I eyeball all my cuts and they always seem to be a little short of the 22” I could be getting.



This will be me next time I cut.


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