# Clapboards vs. Board and Batten



## Ashful (Mar 1, 2015)

It's time to choose the siding, and thus the contractor who will be finally finishing my barn project. One wants to do Board and Batten, the other was agreeable to my original suggestion of horizontal 1x6 clapboard.

Here's the barn as it stands, with the new doors Photoshop'd in place (they're being made now). Which way would you go, and why? I have to admit, I have more concerns about rot and water intrusion around window casings with board and batten, versus clapboards.

Being a big fan of classic New England (eg. Newport) clapboard style, I was partial to the clapboards. Price is roughly the same either way, or close enough that price is not a factor.

Thanks!


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## EatenByLimestone (Mar 1, 2015)

I have clapboards on my house.  If I ever have to replace them I'd look very closely at the fiber-cement clapboards.  Other than being completely regular it's pretty tough to tell the difference.  It looks great and has fire, weather and impact resistance.


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## Ashful (Mar 1, 2015)

Yeah, I'm a fan of the cement, as well.  Unfortunately, the weight is a bit of an issue on this old frame.  Wood is 1/3 (or less) the weight of the cement.


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## eclecticcottage (Mar 1, 2015)

We have a board and batten shed.  We were just down there today sweeping snow out where it had blown in through cracks that were revealed due to the boards and battens shrinking (not kiln dried).  I say clapboards.


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## peakbagger (Mar 1, 2015)

I really like clapboards with tighter spacing at the base and possibly a bit of flare out a the base. The one thing I dislike is the nailing, even with ribbed SS nails the weather works them loose over time. I have considered going to hardiplank in the future as they do hidden top nailing.


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## semipro (Mar 1, 2015)

What is the substructure that you'll be attaching boards to?
If horizontal nailers, then sheathing or vertical nailers would need to be installed for clapboard and the resulting trim reveal depths may change unacceptably. 
If you have, or install, sheathing and a building wrap then you'll want a drainage layer under the siding.  This can also impact trim reveals. 
You can adjust trim thickness somewhat but you can't easily change the depth of existing fenestration.


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## Ashful (Jun 10, 2015)

Fin.  Only thing left is the install of a few gooseneck barn lights over the doors and over the 2nd floor window.


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## Ashful (Jul 19, 2015)

Grinding out the concrete floor this weekend, preparing for floor epoxy.  Did major profiling yesterday, followed today by diamond cup wheel on angle grinder for perimeter, and grinding out all cracks for epoxy.  Weather has not been helpful, with "heat hazard" warnings and heat index over 100F both days.

Oh, exterior lighting mounted:


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## Highbeam (Jul 22, 2015)

Ashful said:


> Grinding out the concrete floor this weekend, preparing for floor epoxy.  Did major profiling yesterday, followed today by diamond cup wheel on angle grinder for perimeter, and grinding out all cracks for epoxy.  Weather has not been helpful, with "heat hazard" warnings and heat index over 100F both days.
> 
> Oh, exterior lighting mounted:
> 
> ...



Would be cool to see how the floor turns out.


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## Ashful (Jul 24, 2015)

Well, I was all set to apply the epoxy this weekend, when I realized I was short on the clear coat.  Got more on order, so it will be next weekend before it goes down.  I'll be doing basecoat and flake just a half day before clear, going for a chemical cross-linked bond without sanding.


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## ironpony (Jul 24, 2015)

inside secret on applying the epoxy. buy a cheap pair of golf shoes with steel spikes, and wear them. reasoning, you will be walking on the points and not make footprints on the floor which can show thru. be careful though they are slippery on concrete. also when top coating, you will never see the pinholes but will see footprints.

edit; if you wear them while applying the epoxy and see a thin spot you can walk back out an fix it without leaving mark, the pinholes float back in.


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