# Earth stove 100 door gasket needed and manual



## perry (Dec 19, 2013)

someone here tell me what is the proper gasket for the door and rear damper flap on a earth stove 100 ?. 
 my stove just has a wadding someone put in it and it's falling apart . and there is no gasket on the rear flap. looks like may have been at one time .  also if someone here has a owners manual would be great .


----------



## coaly (Dec 19, 2013)

1/4" X 1 1/4 if the same as as a 101 and 105.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/what-size-door-gasket-for-my-earth-stove.55427/


----------



## perry (Dec 19, 2013)

I am not sure , mine just say's 100 series on the tag . just checked the Lenox site and I guess this is the one i need . pricy bugger - http://woodheatstoves.com/earth-stove-1-14-x-6-door-gasket-kit-p-9292.html


----------



## coaly (Dec 19, 2013)

The Amish way of door sealing is to use a flat gasket and fold lengthwise as pushing it into the groove. This makes a loop that seals against the stove face and works very well. It doesn't fray since all cut edges are protected in the groove.

Heeere's Woody;


----------



## Osage (Dec 19, 2013)

I burned a 101 Top Vent which is what you have for 30 years. I don't think they ever had a gasket on the draft flapper.
Don't have the manual or I would send it to you.


----------



## perry (Dec 20, 2013)

Osage said:


> I don't think they ever had a gasket on the draft flapper.
> .



OK i was not sure on the back flapper. i assumed it was to completely shut the air off to stove if needed and it looked like there may have been a gasket at one time.


----------



## perry (Dec 20, 2013)

coaly said:


> The Amish way of door sealing is to use a flat gasket and fold lengthwise as pushing it into the groove. This makes a loop that seals against the stove face and works very well. It doesn't fray since all cut edges are protected in the groove.



I don't think that will work on this stove. the groove is too wide.


----------



## coaly (Dec 20, 2013)

Ah, what looked like a groove was an indentation in the gasket material. They get away with no gasket cement tucking it in. With it pulled out, looks like any rope gasket material glued in that fills the groove will seal.


----------



## Rayvillian (Dec 21, 2013)

I have 2 of those stoves. Actually the first pick of your gasket looked like it wasn't in bad shape. Would have probably worked fine. the gasket wraps around a piece of angle on the stove. the back draft model I have in the greenhouse had no gasket when I got it so I replaced it with a standard rope gasket and it seems to work fine. the air flap in the back doesn't have a gasket.


----------



## perry (Dec 25, 2013)

Rayvillian said:


> I have 2 of those stoves. Actually the first pick of your gasket looked like it wasn't in bad shape. Would have probably worked fine. the gasket wraps around a piece of angle on the stove. the back draft model I have in the greenhouse had no gasket when I got it so I replaced it with a standard rope gasket and it seems to work fine. the air flap in the back doesn't have a gasket.




so the gasket go's on the stove and not the door ?.


----------



## perry (Dec 25, 2013)

here is the only manual available online for a earth stove . but is not for the model 100 - https://www.hearth.com/images/uploads/Earthstove100_manual.PDF


----------



## Osage (Dec 25, 2013)

perry said:


> so the gasket go's on the stove and not the door ?.


No it goes in the groove in the door.


----------



## Rayvillian (Dec 26, 2013)

Osage said:


> No it goes in the groove in the door.


Osage is right it goes in the door and it was just a wading. Yours in the first picture looked as good as the one in my livingroom does after 30 + years of use. The freebe earth stove I have in my greenhouse didn't have a gasket so I used the braided kind. It's not really large enough and doesn't seal that well but the poor old thing has alot of other problems and since the greenhouse just has to stay above freezing the stove is usually run in full choked mode.

the earth stoves are old school what i call coke and smoke stoves that were designed to run with the intake air limited. for long burns the wood just smolders and looses the woodgas up the chimney. Back in the late 70's early 80's nobody cared. they don't have baffle plates and the secondary air intake is pretty limited. on the good side they last along time. the one in the living room as done well for 30 + years, used every winter as primary heat source. Only maintenance done was replacing a few cracked fire bricks.
Their basically just semi air tight boxes with a thermal-spring controlled primary air dampener.


----------



## Rayvillian (Dec 26, 2013)

Rayvillian said:


> Osage is right it goes in the door and it was just a wading. Yours in the first picture looked as good as the one in my livingroom does after 30 + years of use. The freebe earth stove I have in my greenhouse didn't have a gasket so I used the braided kind. It's not really large enough and doesn't seal that well but the poor old thing has alot of other problems and since the greenhouse just has to stay above freezing the stove is usually run in full choked mode.
> 
> the earth stoves are old school what i call coke and smoke stoves that were designed to run with the intake air limited. for long burns the wood just smolders and looses the woodgas up the chimney. Back in the late 70's early 80's nobody cared. they don't have baffle plates and the secondary air intake is pretty limited. on the good side they last along time. the one in the living room as done well for 30 + years, used every winter as primary heat source. Only maintenance done was replacing a few cracked fire bricks.
> Their basically just semi air tight boxes with a thermal-spring controlled primary air dampener.



Perry a bit of warning watch your flue cause these stove will put out creosote especially when burning green wood. I would clean my chimney about every 4 to 5 weeks when I used to burn green and still had a chimney fire, which are real scarey. I now try to burn only well cured wood. I also have a clean out port below the flue entrance to the chimney and check the flue every week with a mirror when the stove is burned down to clean out ashes. Which by the way is a pain as you probably know if you've run yours at all.


----------



## perry (Dec 27, 2013)

Rayvillian said:


> Perry a bit of warning watch your flue cause these stove will put out creosote especially when burning green wood. I would clean my chimney about every 4 to 5 weeks when I used to burn green and still had a chimney fire, which are real scarey. I now try to burn only well cured wood. I also have a clean out port below the flue entrance to the chimney and check the flue every week with a mirror when the stove is burned down to clean out ashes. Which by the way is a pain as you probably know if you've run yours at all.




I run mine just about daily in the shop . surprisingly i have not had a creosote problem with it. I never cleaned the chimney last season . i ran the brush through it this fall and it was clean . really happy with this old earth stove. my englander 13 in the house is the the air tight little bugger and will gum up the chimney if not careful.


----------



## perry (Dec 27, 2013)

dont know what i was thinking , the lip around the opening is for the screen door.


----------



## Osage (Dec 27, 2013)

Rayvillian said:


> Osage is right it goes in the door and it was just a wading. Yours in the first picture looked as good as the one in my livingroom does after 30 + years of use. The freebe earth stove I have in my greenhouse didn't have a gasket so I used the braided kind. It's not really large enough and doesn't seal that well but the poor old thing has alot of other problems and since the greenhouse just has to stay above freezing the stove is usually run in full choked mode.
> 
> the earth stoves are old school what i call coke and smoke stoves that were designed to run with the intake air limited. for long burns the wood just smolders and looses the woodgas up the chimney. Back in the late 70's early 80's nobody cared. they don't have baffle plates and the secondary air intake is pretty limited. on the good side they last along time. the one in the living room as done well for 30 + years, used every winter as primary heat source. Only maintenance done was replacing a few cracked fire bricks.
> Their basically just semi air tight boxes with a thermal-spring controlled primary air dampener.


My stove had a rope gasket. Lasted for over 30 years. Sold the stove this fall, gasket still sealed.
Yea they will creasote, but that is more to do with how and what you burn. They are a simple box, but ours kept our house warm in some pretty cold times.


----------



## Rayvillian (Dec 27, 2013)

Mine has done great too except when it gets down in the single digits than I have a wood furnace down in the woodroom that keeps us warm. Furnace burns more wood than the old stove does but gives me a more even heat through the house. I try not to burn green wood any more. in fact I'm working on next years wood now.

the earth stove was my only heat for 7 years than I left home one sunny morning in the 30's and didn't make it home till 1 in the morning and the outside temps had dropped to the single digits. fire out, house about 40 degrees and I couldn't run enough wood through the old stove to get it above 50 so now I have an electric furnace that I do my best not to ever use.

I'm wandering if anyone has put a smoke baffle and secondary air intake on one of these old boxes I thinking about experimenting on the one out in the green house.


----------



## perry (Dec 29, 2013)

mine with the magic heat keeps the shop nice and toasty.  It's all drywalled and walls insulated . need to insulate the ceiling next and that old stove might just burn me out of there.  would be too big in the house . the little englander NC-13 does a good job in my smaller ranch home.


----------



## perry (Dec 29, 2013)

not mine but here is a earth stove Texas style .....


----------



## Rayvillian (Dec 29, 2013)

I watched that video before. that is one beautiful stove. I'd almost hate to put a fire in it. but i agree with the girl doing the video it is a work of art. What I'm dreaming about is a way to lengthen the smoke path and add secondary air tubes to burn some of the wood gas that is now going up the chimney.


----------



## Puff (Jan 1, 2014)

New here.. I moved into house with the earth stove 100 series. Heats our house nice. Does anyone have a manual or info that I could get? Does this thing have a catalytic combustor? Not sure what that even is? Lol 
I stay on top of cleaning out the chimney. I guess if I could find anything on this stove would be a big help... Thanks...


----------



## perry (Jan 3, 2014)

Puff said:


> New here.. I moved into house with the earth stove 100 series. Heats our house nice. Does anyone have a manual or info that I could get? Does this thing have a catalytic combustor? Not sure what that even is? Lol
> I stay on top of cleaning out the chimney. I guess if I could find anything on this stove would be a big help... Thanks...



no manual found on the actual 100 model stove . just what i posted above. not much too them . after a season you get to know the stove. i like the auto damper but have to check it once in awhile. it will stick once or twice in the past.


----------



## Osage (Jan 3, 2014)

perry said:


> not mine but here is a earth stove Texas style .....




Well I have to disagree on that stove lookin good. That thing would have to sneak up on a glass of water to get a drink.


----------



## Puff (Jan 3, 2014)

Thanks for your time perry..!  Is there any baffles or anything to clean bedsides the chimney pipe? Thanks


----------



## toyota (Aug 11, 2014)

.  I have an earth stove 100 series and i need the stove handles,do you know where i can find,get them.


----------



## Keep It Simple (Aug 16, 2014)

http://woodheatstoves.com/earth-stove-parts-c-424.html 

Try these guys they have the most that I found.


----------

