# Have to cut a roof beam.



## Magus (Nov 30, 2010)

Well...I have my Hearth installed, Went with Slate. 

I was taking another look at where the stove pipe will go through the roof...(vaulted ceiling) and it appears that there is no way around cutting one of the roof beams. 

Looking at where the stove pipe needs to go, it is short of an inch. 
If I cut the wood beam then I can go straight up and out. 

If I try and move the stove back then I dont have enough clearance from the combustible wall...must be 13 inches with my stove. 

If I try to put an off set on the pipe so that it goes between the rafters, my stove can stay where it is but then I dont have enough clearance for the stove pipe from a combustible wall...18 inches.

I am trying to keep from having to have a gawd awful heat shield on my wall...it look like the only way is to cut the beam.
 :?(


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## Dakotas Dad (Nov 30, 2010)

You could use double wall stove pipe to reduce your clearance to combustibles. 

A beam needs to be cut, or a joist, rafter or stringer? very different critters.


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## TROY COOK (Nov 30, 2010)

Can't you off set the run with two 45's or 90's ?


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## Mad Tom (Nov 30, 2010)

Don't do any structural damage to your house. Not worth it. Double wall pipe make any difference with the pipe clearance?. Are you talking a beam , a stringer, or a floor joist.  A stringer could be cut and boxed out. Make sure you beef it up and screw it all together with good screws.   

I was in a 1.5 million dollar second home last year  that had over 3 to 5 inches of deflection in the floors. Seems that the wife didn't like the columns that the builder had put in . It wasn't in sync with her open floor plan scheme so she had them removed. House was 2 years old and what I consider unsafe.


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## MarkinNC (Nov 30, 2010)

I had a zero clearance "box" placed between my rafters and used two 45's to locate the pipe correctly.  I was able to get the stove within an inch or two of where I planned.


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## Rockey (Nov 30, 2010)

I hope your not contemplating cutting a rafter to make room for your stove pipe. You need to consult a structural engineer about your intentions. One good snowfall in Michigan this winter and you'll be wishing you never knew about wood stoves.


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## Stump_Branch (Nov 30, 2010)

Dont risk integrity, but think of Skylights or any other 'hole' in your roof. most of the time care is taken to miss those areas, might have helped to triple check before hand. But, if you do it proper box in with same size, species, etc. of wood. (vaulted ceilings...2x4 prefab truss, very strong, unless pieces are removed) i would double up either opposing support member, and box in , again doubled, with metal shear connections. dont just toenail them together. you should be fine. although...two 45's coming out towards the room..heat. plus pretty neat looking... always room for creativity.


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## xman23 (Nov 30, 2010)

My chimney box going between the rafters is 12" X 12". The rafters being 16" on center, it's almost impossible to not hit one. I have a cathedral ceiling and didn't want any offset's in the exposed pipe. Also a straight run can make cleaning easier. So I cut out the rafter and put in a double header above and below the box. It's not very difficult. and structurally correct. If it's something you don't want to tackle, any decent carpenter / framer will will do it in a couple hours.  So put the stove where it should be and put in a straight chimney.

Tom


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## Lighting Up (Nov 30, 2010)

Rockey said:
			
		

> I hope your not contemplating cutting a rafter to make room for your stove pipe. You need to consult a structural engineer about your intentions. One good snowfall in Michigan this winter and you'll be wishing you never knew about wood stoves.




I second this...third, forth and fifth it...
md


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## wkpoor (Nov 30, 2010)

A properly installed and constructed box would not only preserve structural integrity but would also keep your chimney well away from combustibles.


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## Renovation (Nov 30, 2010)

Magus said:
			
		

> Well...I have my Hearth installed, Went with Slate.
> 
> 
> If I try to put an off set on the pipe so that it goes between the rafters, my stove can stay where it is but then I dont have enough clearance for the stove pipe from a combustible wall...18 inches.



Go with double-wall stove pipe and offsets.  Then your minimum clearance to combustibles is 6"  And double wall stove pipe will last longer, improve draft, and keep your chimney cleaner and safer.  Done.


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## tfdchief (Nov 30, 2010)

If it is truly a beam, you can't cut it without some engineered restructuring and re-supporting.  If it is stick built with dimensional lumber, a good carpenter can probably re-support the cut rafter.  If it is part of a truss, don't cut it without an engineer's analysis and recommendation on how to re-support it.  The safe thing to do would be either get an engineers recommendation or not cut it and go around as others have said.


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## Magus (Nov 30, 2010)

You know how you visulally know what you are talking about yet it comes out wrong...well...I did that. 

It is not a beam that I am thinking about cutting...it is a JOIST that connects two beams. 

I was told that double walled pipe does not let off as much heat as single walled pipe? Is this not where some of my heat from  the stove will come from?

I have added a crude drawing of the stove from the side to show the side view...wall and joist. Also keep in mind that the roof slopes up ward from the view you are looking at. 

Option A will have a off set going in front of the stove, Option B will have the pip going to the rear of the stove thus reducing the clearance to less than 18"


Now...Option C I would put the off set toward the bottom toward the stove...but then I would need a longer length of double walled. 

Also can you go from single wall to double walled?


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## raybonz (Nov 30, 2010)

Magus said:
			
		

> You know how you visulally know what you are talking about yet it comes out wrong...well...I did that.
> 
> It is not a beam that I am thinking about cutting...it is a JOIST that connects two beams.
> 
> ...



Is it possible to have the stove exhaust exit from the back so you could connect a tee with a bottom cap to the stove then go straight up from there? That would move the pipe back and also give access for cleaning.. 

Ray


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## Magus (Nov 30, 2010)

No...it only exits from the top :?( 

I will have this stove for about a year or so until I can get one with a bigger box and one that will have a 6" pipe connection.


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## Magus (Nov 30, 2010)

I have put in a pic of where the stove will go and also my first tile job :?)


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## Dakotas Dad (Nov 30, 2010)

Cutting and framing a ceiling joist is no problem at all. If your house is built with trusses, you may have a rafter also in line with your pipe, and that's a different deal, doable, but different. But you can do an off set in the attic if needed with your chimney pipe if you have room.

Double wall stove pipe does not give off as much heat as single wall, that is true, but the amount of heat actually derived from the stove pipe in a modern EPA stove is a very small percentage, compared to the heat from the stove. I doubt you could tell the difference in the overall heating of your home either way. 

I would go "option C", double wall the whole way.


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## Dakotas Dad (Nov 30, 2010)

Magus said:
			
		

> I have put in a pic of where the stove will go and also my first tile job :?)



Just out of curiosity.. You have some sort of heat shield plan? The cable connection and electrical outlets will not do well there behind the stove, (I don't think)...


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## Magus (Nov 30, 2010)

Dakotas Dad said:
			
		

> Cutting and framing a ceiling joist is no problem at all. If your house is built with trusses, you may have a rafter also in line with your pipe, and that's a different deal, doable, but different. But you can do an off set in the attic if needed with your chimney pipe if you have room.
> 
> Double wall stove pipe does not give off as much heat as single wall, that is true, but the amount of heat actually derived from the stove pipe in a modern EPA stove is a very small percentage, compared to the heat from the stove. I doubt you could tell the difference in the overall heating of your home either way.
> 
> I would go "option C", double wall the whole way.



L@@KING and hearing dollar signs " cha-ching" in re to double wall pipe.


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## Magus (Nov 30, 2010)

Dakotas Dad said:
			
		

> Magus said:
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No I dont. I am far enough from the wall 13" that I dont have to have a heat sheld on the wall. 
The stove has a built in head sheld on the back and that is where the blower will need to be plugged in.

I have gotten rid of the cable in that box already...its just a box that I will need to cover up with a stainless steel plate.


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## joel95ex (Nov 30, 2010)

Not sure which brand of chimney you're using, but some brands have a 15 degree pipe so you could clear that rafter.  I would NOT cut a rafter after I saw what the tree did to my roof when it fell on it.  the 15 degree bend could be place well below the beam then another with some rotation of the offset section to position it correctly.



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Like that ??


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## Magus (Nov 30, 2010)

joel95ex said:
			
		

> Not sure which brand of chimney you're using, but some brands have a 15 degree pipe so you could clear that rafter.  I would NOT cut a rafter after I saw what the tree did to my roof when it fell on it.  the 15 degree bend could be place well below the beam then another with some rotation of the offset section to position it correctly.
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Im not stuck on any particular brand, what brand do you use?


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## KWillets (Dec 1, 2010)

You could put a shield on the single-wall:  http://www.amazon.com/Imperial-Group-BM0133-Adjustable-Shield/dp/B000DZQR3Q.


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## joel95ex (Dec 2, 2010)

here is a 15 degree coupler from homesaver------homesaver and security seem to be popular as well as duravent----all stainless   the duravents are about 33 bucks per foot......

http://www.hartshearth.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=5509&idcategory=562

BTW this kit has 2 of these couplers and is meant for situations like yours.....


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## Magus (Dec 2, 2010)

Well I took some measurements last night and this is what I found. 

The "center of the stove pipe that I have now is 4 inches off center of dead center of the wood beams. 

It sounds like two 15 degree elbows and a 12 inch should do it. 
I attatched a picture of were the pipe ends up and where it should be...
That doble wall pipe is gawd awful expensive.


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## Renovation (Dec 2, 2010)

Magus said:
			
		

> Well I took some measurements last night and this is what I found.
> 
> 
> That doble wall pipe is gawd awful expensive.



And worth every penny!

I too investigated single versus double wall stove pipe, initially intending to go single for more heat and less cost.  But, despite my frugal nature, I decided it was not the place to go for the cheaper solution.

A modern stove heats through the stove, not the stove pipe, and needs its cooler exhaust gasses kept as warm as possible to improve draft (stove performance) and keep the chimney clean (improving performance and prevent house-threatening chimney fires).  In addition, it is safer and lasts longer.  

It's a matter of one's own priorities, but for those who value stove performance and safety, double wall is the better path.


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## Magus (Dec 2, 2010)

RenovationGeorge said:
			
		

> Magus said:
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That makes sense. 

I believe I have figured it out.   Instead of going backward..toward the wall which will reduce the clearance needed. I will angle the stove pipe forward a joist. This way I can keep the single wall stove pipe...up until I get to the Class A pipe going through the roof. And I can stay away from the wall. //now...I just need to figure out if I need to go with two 45's or two 15's to get the correct angle. ...also should the angle be toward the stove or toward the ceiling?


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