# Harman P68 auger won't run



## Aaww815 (Oct 21, 2014)

Here's my issue:  replaced control board, esp probe, and pressure/vac switch and the auger still won't run.  When I jumped out the pressure/vac switch the auger and motor run.  I have no fault signals on my control board.  I bought the stove in 2008.  Anyone have any suggestions?


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## mepellet (Oct 21, 2014)

Is there a hopper lid switch on this stove?


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## MtDew (Oct 21, 2014)

Check the silicone hose that connects to the pressure/vac switch. Ensure that it isn't plugged up with debris and that the connection / fittings are tight


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## Aaww815 (Oct 21, 2014)

mepellet said:


> Is there a hopper lid switch on this stove?


There must be because when we open the hopper lid the auger use to stop feeding when it was working.  But I do not see it... Thinking of tracing the wire from the pressure/vac switch to see if it leads me to a hopper switch.  Could the hopper switch be hidden somewhere?


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## mepellet (Oct 21, 2014)

Is the fine box closed properly?


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## mepellet (Oct 21, 2014)

My P61A had a hopper switch in the back right. Hopefully the picture will upload.


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## MtDew (Oct 21, 2014)

If it's like my P43 the hopper lid switch will tie into the wiring at the auger motor.

Did this just start happening or did you do some cleaning or repairs and now have this issue?


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## dhall28 (Oct 21, 2014)

i know harman use to in some stove, not sure about yours but it may be this way, take the vacuum line and run it to a "muffler" as they called it in the hopper. It was a little orange knob. With a properly sealed hopper lid the hopper has vacuum. By doing this they met the need for a vacuum switch and air flow and the new requirement that was being mandated by regulations that the stove shut off the feed motor if the hopper lid was open. Though they stopped doing it and just went back to a vacuum switch to the feed box area and a separate switch for the hopper lid because the "muffler" would get clogged with fines and not work.
It is easy to tell if your stove is this way by following your vacuum line and seeing if it goes to the hopper, if it does id take the line off the vacuum switch and blower air through it.


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 21, 2014)

You guys are getting good   Aaww15, you've got a vacuum problem somewhere. Check all of the things the guys above said including the fines box cover.


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## Aaww815 (Oct 21, 2014)

mepellet said:


> Is there a hopper lid switch on this stove?


It doesn't look like it.  One side of the psi switch connects back to the control board...


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## Aaww815 (Oct 21, 2014)

dhall28 said:


> i know harman use to in some stove, not sure about yours but it may be this way, take the vacuum line and run it to a "muffler" as they called it in the hopper. It was a little orange knob. With a properly sealed hopper lid the hopper has vacuum. By doing this they met the need for a vacuum switch and air flow and the new requirement that was being mandated by regulations that the stove shut off the feed motor if the hopper lid was open. Though they stopped doing it and just went back to a vacuum switch to the feed box area and a separate switch for the hopper lid because the "muffler" would get clogged with fines and not work.
> It is easy to tell if your stove is this way by following your vacuum line and seeing if it goes to the hopper, if it does id take the line off the vacuum switch and blower air through it.


The air line from the psi switch goes to the muffler


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## Aaww815 (Oct 21, 2014)

Harman Lover 007 said:


> You guys are getting good   Aaww15, you've got a vacuum problem somewhere. Check all of the things the guys above said including the fines box cover.


fines box cover???


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## Aaww815 (Oct 21, 2014)

MtDew said:


> If it's like my P43 the hopper lid switch will tie into the wiring at the auger motor.
> 
> Did this just start happening or did you do some cleaning or repairs and now have this issue?


It was igniting or keeping a fire going...


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## Aaww815 (Oct 21, 2014)

mepellet said:


> My P61A had a hopper switch in the back right. Hopefully the picture will upload.


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## Aaww815 (Oct 21, 2014)

No switch


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## Aaww815 (Oct 21, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> It was igniting or keeping a fire going...


It wasn't igniting or keeping a fire going when I manually started it


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## Aaww815 (Oct 21, 2014)

So I followed the wire from the psi/switch back and one wire goes to the control board and the other to the auger. Rechecked all my connections.  Cleaned out the line from the muffler to the psi switch.  Rechecked the esp red probe, checked my dip switch settings and have the same issue.... Ughhhhhh....


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## Aaww815 (Oct 21, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> So I followed the wire from the psi/switch back and one wire goes to the control board and the other to the auger. Rechecked all my connections.  Cleaned out the line from the muffler to the psi switch.  Rechecked the esp red probe, checked my dip switch settings and have the same issue.... Ughhhhhh....


Maybe I got bad parts???


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## Bioburner (Oct 21, 2014)

There was another stove with the hopper muffler giving the owner fits this spring and ended up the lid was not seating well. They finally got it figured out by putting a bag of pellets on the lid.


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## Aaww815 (Oct 21, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> No switch


My psi /vac switch


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## dhall28 (Oct 21, 2014)

The ESP and the control board are not bad if you jump the wires going to the vacuum switch and everything runs as it should. your vacuum switch could be bad but the chance of your old one and the new one both being bad is highly unlikely. You can get a small hose and hook it up to the vacuum switch, turn the stove on and suck on the hose to create a vacuum, if the stove runs as it should you have a vacuum issue. If you try that test make sure you do so carefully with a long enough hose your safely away from moving parts and electrical parts.


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## Aaww815 (Oct 21, 2014)

dhall28 said:


> The ESP and the control board are not bad if you jump the wires going to the vacuum switch and everything runs as it should. your vacuum switch could be bad but the chance of your old one and the new one both being bad is highly unlikely. You can get a small hose and hook it up to the vacuum switch, turn the stove on and suck on the hose to create a vacuum, if the stove runs as it should you have a vacuum issue. If you try that test make sure you do so carefully with a long enough hose your safely away from moving parts and electrical parts.


Thank you..Take the hose that is currently on the vacuum switch off the muffler?


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## dhall28 (Oct 21, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> Thank you..Take the hose that is currently on the vacuum switch off the muffler?


I always add on an extra hose while the stove is unplugged to the hose coming from the vacuum switch, the hose on the vacuum switch will work but i dont know if it is long enough or not for you to do this safely...


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## Aaww815 (Oct 21, 2014)

I just did the test? Pulled the hose from the muffler and the auger started working and igniter light came on!!


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## Aaww815 (Oct 21, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> I just did the test? Pulled the hose from the muffler and the auger started working and igniter light came on!!


I sucked into the hose and everything started working.. Could the muffler be bad?


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## dhall28 (Oct 21, 2014)

muffler could be plugged with pellet fines, in which case normally you can take the hose and hooking it up to the muffler you can blow through it to clear it out of the fines. If this does not help, you have an airflow issue, air coming into the stove at the wrong area or air not exiting the stove as it should. Something as small as one pellet sticking into the door gasket on the hopper lid can sometimes be enough to allow air in and cause the pellet hopper to lose proper vacuum. Vacuum issues are like vacuum issue on a car, ever joint and part becomes possible of leaking air and needs checked but there are ones that are common culprits such as improperly cleaned stove, door gaskets, improperly attached fine box clean out cover, etc


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 21, 2014)

As I said earlier you have a vacuum leak. Find it.


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## Aaww815 (Oct 21, 2014)

dhall28 said:


> muffler could be plugged with pellet fines, in which case normally you can take the hose and hooking it up to the muffler you can blow through it to clear it out of the fines. If this does not help, you have an airflow issue, air coming into the stove at the wrong area or air not exiting the stove as it should. Something as small as one pellet sticking into the door gasket on the hopper lid can sometimes be enough to allow air in and cause the pellet hopper to lose proper vacuum. Vacuum issues are like vacuum issue on a car, ever joint and part becomes possible of leaking air and needs checked but there are ones that are common culprits such as improperly cleaned stove, door gaskets, improperly attached fine box clean out cover, etc


Thank you...I will check it out... Haven't looked at the fine box clean out cover...  I have all the side and back panels off that won't cause a problem will it?


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## Bioburner (Oct 21, 2014)

No, you can run the stove undressed. Could be hazardous to a cat or small dog. 
Have you tested the door seals?


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## Aaww815 (Oct 21, 2014)

Bioburner said:


> No, you can run the stove undressed. Could be hazardous to a cat or small dog.
> Have you tested the door seals?


Ok...door seals seem fine...


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## Bioburner (Oct 21, 2014)

Did you try the dollar bill test on the doors? The P 68 has a lot of door area to leak.


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## Aaww815 (Oct 21, 2014)

Bioburner said:


> Did you try the dollar bill test on the doors? The P 68 has a lot of door area to leak.


No, since I have had the stove for 6 years do you think it's time to change the door gasket.


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> No, since I have had the stove for 6 years do you think it's time to change the door gasket.


Could very well be but we like to help folks diagnose things first before just throwing parts at like you have been doing. Are you familiar with the dollar bill test?


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## mepellet (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> fines box cover???


Have you found the fines box cover yet? Might not be the issue because it sounds like you don't even know what it is but worth a check. Search this site for "Harman fines box" and there are some photos that should come up.


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Harman Lover 007 said:


> Could very well be but we like to help folks diagnose things first before just throwing parts at like you have been doing. Are you familiar with the dollar bill test?


Thank you...I will try the dollar bill test...the manual doesn't show a good picture of the fines box...I am thinking I know what it is but not sure...I will clean the muffler again and recheck the hose...


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Bioburner said:


> Did you try the dollar bill test on the doors? The P 68 has a lot of door area to leak.


Just double checking... What size diameter gasket rope should I buy? thanks


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Harman Lover 007 said:


> It's on the right side if the stove near the back. If you haven't touched it recently then that might not be it but if you haven't cleaned it you should!! It's got a black cover and a big wing nut. This is what it looks like w cover off.


Thank you Great pic... I will check it out


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> Thank you Great pic... I will check it out


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 22, 2014)

Here's a better picture


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Harman Lover 007 said:


> Here's a better picture


PERFECT Thanks


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


>


have you ever cleaned this out since you got the stove in 2008???


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Sorry... Not sure what's up with these smileys...THANK YOU


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> Sorry... Not sure what's up with these smileys...THANK YOU


exclamation point turns into smiley automatically


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> Thank you...I will try the dollar bill test...the manual doesn't show a good picture of the fines box...I am thinking I know what it is but not sure...I will clean the muffler again and recheck the hose...


I think you are getting close. it must have something to do with that hose or the muffler


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Harman Lover 007 said:


> have you ever cleaned this out since you got the stove in 2008???


No...... Looks like it sits on top of the auger?


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> No...... Looks like it sits on top of the auger?


Beside it. Take the right side rear panel off...it will be right there. Get your vacuum ready...that's gonna be packed with fines


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## Bioburner (Oct 22, 2014)

Another picture of fines box with cover on. Taken from right side above room air fan.


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 22, 2014)

Bioburner said:


> View attachment 141941
> 
> 
> 
> ...


He's got a P68 it won't look like your P45....


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## Bioburner (Oct 22, 2014)

Its close. Just like most p series don't have that hopper muffler


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Bioburner said:


> Its close. Just like most p series don't have that hopper muffler


The auger is running... After I cleaned up the fines box.  Now it seems like I have a mechanical issue.  When the auger is turning it makes a clink sound when it hits the black arm that is connected to the plate that was in the fines box


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> The auger is running... After I cleaned up the fines box.  Now it seems like I have a mechanical issue.  When the auger is turning it makes a clink sound when it hits the black arm that is connected to the plate that was in the fines box


Not sure if I moved anything out of wack in the fines box.. There is a plate in there


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> Not sure if I moved anything out of wack in the fines box.. There is a plate in there


Also in initial startup the auger runs, as it normally does, but then after it shuts off the auger only comes on for a second or two.... From one issue to the next....ughhhh


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## Bioburner (Oct 22, 2014)

Can have a bit more of a clink etc now that it not being muffled by all the fines. Auger doing a few short cycles has been discussed and is normal with some board programming.


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Bioburner said:


> Can have a bit more of a clink etc now that it not being muffled by all the fines. Auger doing a few short cycles has been discussed and is normal with some board programming.


Just ever recall the clink and it's when it hits the auger motor.. Short blips of the auger turning on could be a board dip switch problem... Should I put the switches the same as my old board


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## Bioburner (Oct 22, 2014)

I would just leave well enough alone unless another issue. Helps with any possible burn back issue. Our stove does the same thing.


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> Not sure if I moved anything out of wack in the fines box.. There is a plate in there


That is the slide plate. It allows the pellets to drop into the auger tube. If you have never cleaned that fines box in 6 years that is a problem. There could be fines jammed everywhere. The best way to make sure the slide plate is working properly is to empty the hopper, take the fines box cover back off, lift the mechanical arm until you can slide the slide plate right out. BE CAREFUL there is a right side up and down to the slide plate. How aggressive were you in the cleaning of the fines box? Was it full?


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> Just ever recall the clink and it's when it hits the auger motor.. Short blips of the auger turning on could be a board dip switch problem... Should I put the switches the same as my old board


what did the instructions that came with the board say?


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> Also in initial startup the auger runs, as it normally does, but then after it shuts off the auger only comes on for a second or two.... From one issue to the next....ughhhh


Hang in there, at least we have it running....will it build a big fire?


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Harman Lover 007 said:


> That is the slide plate. It allows the pellets to drop into the auger tube. If you have never cleaned that fines box in 6 years that is a problem. There could be fines jammed everywhere. The best way to make sure the slide plate is working properly is to empty the hopper, take the fines box cover back off, lift the mechanical arm until you can slide the slide plate right out. BE CAREFUL there is a right side up and down to the slide plate. How aggressive were you in the cleaning of the fines box? Was it full?


Thanks I fixed the noise because the slide plate was not connected back to the plate in the fine box.  Must of disconnected when I cleaned it and it was full!! Funny thing is I had a outfit here clean the stove recently that never open or cleaned that box out.  So now it is feeding pellets to the hopper but after initial start up the auger only gets on for a second and stops...


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> Thanks I fixed the noise because the slide plate was not connected back to the plate in the fine box.  Must of disconnected when I cleaned it and it was full!! Funny thing is I had a outfit here clean the stove recently that never open or cleaned that box out.  So now it is feeding pellets to the hopper but after initial start up the auger only gets on for a second and stops...


Burn pot filling up with pellets but not igniting... Auger still turns on for a second and stops...


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> Burn pot filling up with pellets but not igniting... Auger still turns on for a second and stops...


Igniter light still lit on control board also


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> Igniter light still lit on control board also


is the burnpot hot where igniter is?


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Harman Lover 007 said:


> is the burnpot hot where igniter is?


No


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> No


Bad igniter?


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> Bad igniter?


possibly....check the igniter connections on your new board....


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 22, 2014)

you may have dipswitch issues as well....did you get instructions with new board?


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Harman Lover 007 said:


> possibly....check the igniter connections on your new board....


Stupid question.  If I connect the esp probe backward on the control board would that be a issue... Just double checking


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> Stupid question.  If I connect the esp probe backward on the control board would that be a issue... Just double checking


I don't think so


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Harman Lover 007 said:


> you may have dipswitch issues as well....did you get instructions with new board?


Yes I did get in


Harman Lover 007 said:


> you may have dipswitch issues as well....did you get instructions with new board?


yes I did and I set the dip switches to the p68 with a 6 rpm auger... Different from what the switches were set with my original board


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> Yes I did get in
> 
> yes I did and I set the dip switches to the p68 with a 6 rpm auger... Different from what the switches were set with my original board


I may be back to my original issue when I had the outfit clean the stove.  Igniter would not lite and I was having problem even trying to start up the stove in Manuel mode with some gel


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> I may be back to my original issue when I had the outfit clean the stove.  Igniter would not lite and I was having problem even trying to start up the stove in Manuel mode with some gel


Will the stove light now in stove temp manual and stay lit?
At some point I've got to do my job here today so if my responses become delayed its because I actually have to get something done


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Harman Lover 007 said:


> Will the stove light now in stove temp manual and stay lit?
> At some point I've got to do my job here today so if my responses become delayed its because I actually have to get something done


Ok..thank you! I understand... I need to go back to work also...we have made some progress... I am going to try stove temp in Manuel mode...if this doesn't work I we be back at it tonight....


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> Ok..thank you! I understand... I need to go back to work also...we have made some progress... I am going to try stove temp in Manuel mode...if this doesn't work I we be back at it tonight....


OK....
so your dip switches are set at off,off,on,off,on,off,on,on? Correct?


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Harman Lover 007 said:


> OK....
> so your dip switches are set at off,off,on,off,on,off,on,on? Correct?


No...that's not what the paper said on, off, on, off, on, on, on, on..old board was off,off,off, off, on, off, on, on


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> No...that's not what the paper said on, off, on, off, on, on, on, on..old board was off,off,off, off, on, off, on, on


Just tried your switch settings and auger does same thing..below is the sheet they sent me with the board


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

So I am back to the original issue before I had a company do a horrible job of cleaning my stove...flame won't ignite and it fire won't stay lit even when I use a gel to try to get the fire going, it flames out.. Thanks for all the help so far... Think I am getting closer to having a fire.


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Picture of my stove serial number info


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> Picture of my stove serial number info


Here's my schematic for my stove from my manual


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> So I am back to the original issue before I had a company do a horrible job of cleaning my stove...flame won't ignite and it fire won't stay lit even when I use a gel to try to get the fire going, it flames out.. Thanks for all the help so far... Think I am getting closer to having a fire.


Geez I hope so.... Ok put the settings back to what your sheet says...we're still chasing the vacuum issue I think. Does the auger run more than a couple seconds in test mode??


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

So...trying to light stove with gel...flame dies out... Auger just turning on quick and then off.. So frustrating.  Before if I lit in manual the stove would smoke up then a fire would start... Nothing now But auger turning on quick and no smoke in the box


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> So...trying to light stove with gel...flame dies out... Auger just turning on quick and then off.. So frustrating.  Before if I lit in manual the stove would smoke up then a fire would start... Nothing now But auger turning on quick and no smoke in the box


No fire ....guess it's time to try to change out door and ash burn door gaskets


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

Ok... I have it running in stove temp mode using gel to start the fire! I have a fire and auger is feeding pellets. I swapped the esp probe connection on the board...maybe that made a difference?  I also adjusted the front door to make it a tighter fit.  Still think I have a dip switch issue and maybe the igniter is bad...


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## keep-in warm (Oct 22, 2014)

Good to see you running.  Hard to tell if either or both the recent changes impacted the burn or not at all.  Try not to throw the kitchen sink at it all at once without testing each change individually.  Id be curious to hear what your procedure is for lighting manually.  If the manual light didn't get hot enough, the ESP may not allow pellets to flow. 

From the manual: 

_Feed motor will not run until the ESP control senses a certain temperature. Maybe you did not put enough fuel or starting gel in the burn pot before manually lighting the fire._

Even If you can keep the stove running, you likely _still _have a dirty stove and likely a burnt out igniter.


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

So..stove is running great in stove temp mode..still worries me that it was hard to start up and I had to start with gel and in stove temp mode. I do think the igniter is toast and really think I need to change the gaskets on glass and ash door. Esp probe I hope is ok....


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 22, 2014)

Is your room sensing probe connected properly? If that is bad it won't fire up in room temp mode. It should however try to start and fill the burnpot with pellets. Then when it doesn't light your status light should blink a code.


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## keep-in warm (Oct 22, 2014)

If the door doesn't pass the dollar bill test, then you should replace the door gasket.  The glass gasket does not normally require any maintenance unless you had to change the glass.   The door passes the test or it doesn't.  I don't know how you adjusted a door that contains a glued gasket without manipulating the gasket itself.


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

keep-in warm said:


> If the door doesn't pass the dollar bill test, then you should replace the door gasket.  The glass gasket does not normally require any maintenance unless you had to change the glass.   The door passes the test or it doesn't.  I don't know how you adjusted a door that contains a glued gasket without manipulating the gasket itself.


The manual tells you how to adjust the door by moving the door latch


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## Aaww815 (Oct 22, 2014)

keep-in warm said:


> If the door doesn't pass the dollar bill test, then you should replace the door gasket.  The glass gasket does not normally require any maintenance unless you had to change the glass.   The door passes the test or it doesn't.  I don't know how you adjusted a door that contains a glued gasket without manipulating the gasket itself.





Harman Lover 007 said:


> Is your room sensing probe connected properly? If that is bad it won't fire up in room temp mode. It should however try to start and fill the burnpot with pellets. Then when it doesn't light your status light should blink a code.


I switched the connection on the board for the esp probe..


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## keep-in warm (Oct 22, 2014)

Forgot the latch had adjustment.  Thanks for correcting me.


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 23, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> I switched the connection on the board for the esp probe..


The room sensing probe, not the ESP. It plugs into the back of the stove.


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## Aaww815 (Oct 23, 2014)

Harman Lover 007 said:


> The room sensing probe, not the ESP. It plugs into the back of the stove.


Thanks for all the help ...I had a warm fire going all night last night... It was running great, cleaning out the fines box was key..  Surprised the outfit I had that just cleaned my stove didn't clean it out.
Couple things, i started it with gel in stove temp mode, would go in room temp mode.  I pretty sure my igniter is shot, and I am going to order replacement gaskets for front door and ash door.  I was able to adjust the glass door for a tighter fit that helped.  I do have a question and maybe someone can put a pic up, could my esp probe be connected backward on the board or does it not matter?  Curious about that, just want to double check I have everything connected ok.


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## mepellet (Oct 23, 2014)

Glad cleaning out the fines box helped


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## dhall28 (Oct 26, 2014)

Aaww815 said:


> . I do have a question and maybe someone can put a pic up, could my esp probe be connected backward on the board or does it not matter?


The ESP should only be able to be plugged in one way on the board by design of the small plastic parts, but I am almost positive it should not matter which way you plug it in. You test the ESP's by checking the electrical resistance as you heat them up and let them cool. I believe but am not 100% sure the board is using the electrical resistance to tell it what the temperature is in which case the resistance is the same in both directions and i wont matter which way it is plugged in.


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## Aaww815 (Oct 29, 2014)

thank you... Have a question out there I am hoping someone can answer for me.  Is it difficult to change out the igniter on the p68 Harman.  I just got my replacement and are trying to find the connection point for the igniter leads...


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## dhall28 (Oct 29, 2014)

it takes a little bit of time but it is not a huge difficulty, the blue and yellow wires going to the bottom right corner of the feed box (looking at the stove from the back) are what hook up to you ignitor. cut the zip ties holding extra slack of these two wires, takes the ignitor out of the front and pull the wires out the front of the stove till you see the connections.


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## Aaww815 (Oct 29, 2014)

dhall28 said:


> it takes a little bit of time but it is not a huge difficulty, the blue and yellow wires going to the bottom right corner of the feed box (looking at the stove from the back) are what hook up to you ignitor. cut the zip ties holding extra slack of these two wires, takes the ignitor out of the front and pull the wires out the front of the stove till you see the connections.


Found the wires in the back of the stove... But having a hard time figuring out how to take out the igniter... Silver plate that the igniter is being held in.  How to you take it off???


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## bags (Oct 29, 2014)

Before you replace the igniter did you unscrew the two small wing type nut screws under the burn pot and pull the plate up and off. Pull the ash pan and access it thru there. Many times that will fill up with ash too and the igniter won't work. If they didn't clean the fines out there is a possibility they didn't clean there either. Quick and easy check. Stick your fingers in there and pull junk out then vac up.


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## Aaww815 (Oct 29, 2014)

bags said:


> Before you replace the igniter did you unscrew the two small wing type nut screws under the burn pot and pull the plate up and off. Pull the ash pan and access it thru there. Many times that will fill up with ash too and the igniter won't work. If they didn't clean the fines out there is a possibility they didn't clean there either. Quick and easy check. Stick your fingers in there and pull junk out then vac up.


Yes... I did that and have cleaned out this area in the past...thanks..now trying to figure out how to take the igniter out.. Not easy


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## dhall28 (Oct 30, 2014)

directly above the access plate is two 5/16" screws, either a socket and ratchet or just a small wrench will work well. once those two screws are out the bracket that holds the igniter should be able to be pulled out.


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## Harman Lover 007 (Oct 30, 2014)

dhall28 said:


> directly above the access plate is two 5/16" screws, either a socket and ratchet or just a small wrench will work well. once those two screws are out the bracket that holds the igniter should be able to be pulled out.


His is an older stove, 2008 I believe. I don't think he will have those screws. I've seen some P models with them and some without. The igniter sits in a cradle and it takes a bit of finesse to wiggle it out but it's doable. Have patience Aaww815, you'll get it. If someone didn't say it already it comes out from the front, just be careful when pulling the wires through....


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