# ESW Add-on in place



## Chrisg (Sep 8, 2008)

Well the ESW add-on install is finally done complete with 20' of Simpson pipe. This setup should make for a more sensible solution to our heating needs instead of the 2479 in the basement, it is still there for backup though . I know many people are not real partial to this furnace but based on the PM's I have had with a few members and good seasoned cord wood I have on hand I think it will work out well. I bought this unit about three months ago from a local hardware store and since then it has gone up about $500 in price, glad I bought when I did. I had a couple small fires and seems to really put out the heat hard to tell exactly when it is 80 out side but we shall soon see.
Getting it in 










Hooked up





The other end


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## smokinj (Sep 8, 2008)

you will love it! Is that duct tape on the ductwork?


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## smokinj (Sep 8, 2008)

sawdustburners said:
			
		

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Good call! didnt catch that mine stands alone!


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## JPapiPE (Sep 8, 2008)

As a structural engineer and master roofer the sides of your roof flashing should be woven into the shingle coarses.....Does that mean it will leak? No ....but it does go against conventional installs ... Where is the Hog rooting when you need him...Oh Hogwildz is our resident expert on roofing procedures... we do usually defer to him


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## M1sterM (Sep 8, 2008)

Sweet!  Thanks for the pics.  I'm going to start installing mine this weekend.  One question about the hot air supply from the stove to the plenum.  The manual says "Thirty gauge or thicker black pipe should be used for the first two feet and then thirty gauge or thicker galvanized pipe can be used to connect to the existing furnace duct."  Any idea why they they require black pipe for the first 2 feet?  Especially since the flue collar they provide is galvanized?

Also, I'm planning on placing mine on blocks too, to save my back a bit.  Any other tips you have from your install as I plan mine?


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## smokinj (Sep 8, 2008)

M1sterM said:
			
		

> Sweet!  Thanks for the pics.  I'm going to start installing mine this weekend.  One question about the hot air supply from the stove to the plenum.  The manual says "Thirty gauge or thicker black pipe should be used for the first two feet and then thirty gauge or thicker galvanized pipe can be used to connect to the existing furnace duct."  Any idea why they they require black pipe for the first 2 feet?  Especially since the flue collar they provide is galvanized?
> 
> Also, I'm planning on placing mine on blocks too, to save my back a bit.  Any other tips you have from your install as I plan mine?


if thats what it says do use  the black pipe.I have a us stove it doesnt call for it.May just come down to the blower cfm's


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## smokinj (Sep 8, 2008)

sawdustburners said:
			
		

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I maybe wrong but should be do to heat to call for the black pipe


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## smokinj (Sep 8, 2008)

sawdustburners said:
			
		

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I was just thinking that because of the heat that close to the stove and with lower cfm,s would cause more heat build up less chance of a melt down


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## smokinj (Sep 8, 2008)

That 90 degree pipe hes got for example is going to get hot but if your pushing more cfm it would stay cool enough i am pushing a total of 1857 cfm's


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## Chrisg (Sep 8, 2008)

"hope u aint gonna burn oil much because without a damper on the esw heat riser, the oil blower will blow heat into esw & lose heat into cellar & up the esw chimney. the damper would allow the esw to blow into the plenum but not allow the oil blower to blow into esw air jacket..good luck"

I do plan on installing one as the instructions did call for one I just can't find one locally just yet. If I have my way about it the oil furnace will not be coming on anyway.

 I also thought it was odd that instuctions called for heavier duct pipe but the lighter gauge pipe was included on stove you would think that pc would get the most heat. I doubt the pipe I used  is going to fail.

I don't think the roof flashing will leak I sealed it up pretty good underneath and around the perimeter and used gasketed roofing screws to secure it.It also goes up under the top coarse almost the whole tab depth I am pretty confident it will be fine.

The tape is aluminum adhesive tape for sealing duct work not plain old duct tape.


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## smokinj (Sep 8, 2008)

Chrisg said:
			
		

> "hope u aint gonna burn oil much because without a damper on the esw heat riser, the oil blower will blow heat into esw & lose heat into cellar & up the esw chimney. the damper would allow the esw to blow into the plenum but not allow the oil blower to blow into esw air jacket..good luck"
> 
> I do plan on installing one as the instructions did call for one I just can't find one locally just yet. If I have my way about it the oil furnace will not be coming on anyway.
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good install some of the comments were for another guy asking about hes up and coming install.you done a good job and nothing you cant change quick! You will injoy it everytime the fuel bill doesnt come in!


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## smokinj (Sep 8, 2008)

"I also thought it was odd that instuctions called for heavier duct pipe but the lighter gauge pipe was included on stove you would think that pc would get the most heat. I doubt the pipe I used is going to fail"  



the pipe is good M1sterm his install calls for the heavy black pipe witch is weird


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## smokinj (Sep 8, 2008)

sawdustburners said:
			
		

> I THINK IGOT IT NOW! if the blower fails,the pipe will get hot & the black will radiate the heat better,eh?


I was thinking if one furance had way less blower cfm for example say 600 cfm and another furance has 1500 cfm that 90 degree joint wouldnt get as hot with the higher cfm blower unit,and therfore the high cfm blower doesnt need the black pipe.the hotest i have ever gotten my pipe 12in. off the stove was 350 degrees and that was with hedge apple all dampers opened  all the way,then i did have to back off at that point


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## smokinj (Sep 8, 2008)

Chrisg said:
			
		

> "hope u aint gonna burn oil much because without a damper on the esw heat riser, the oil blower will blow heat into esw & lose heat into cellar & up the esw chimney. the damper would allow the esw to blow into the plenum but not allow the oil blower to blow into esw air jacket..good luck"
> 
> I do plan on installing one as the instructions did call for one I just can't find one locally just yet. If I have my way about it the oil furnace will not be coming on anyway.
> 
> ...


Does your furance have a cold air return?


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## Chrisg (Sep 8, 2008)

Yes the existing oil furnace has all new duct system installed in 05 by HVAC company with proper cold air returns. I was thinking because of the way the add on is positioned in relation to the oil furnace I would tap into the cold air of it instead of just pulling from the basement. I suspect this will make for more effiecent use of all the ducting and filter it versus the dusty old basement air. I will probably need to fab some connections from sheet stock and  appropiate  size duct pcs. 
Here is a couple pics to reference furnace positions any thoughts about this - good idea or not. Or should I just let it pull from the basement. The manual does not talk about cold air returns.
The cold air section of the oil furnace is directly to the  right of the ESW blower in the following two pics.
Thanks Chris


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## smokinj (Sep 8, 2008)

Chrisg said:
			
		

> Yes the existing oil furnace has all new duct system installed in 05 by HVAC company with proper cold air returns. I was thinking because of the way the add on is positioned in relation to the oil furnace I would tap into the cold air of it instead of just pulling from the basement. I suspect this will make for more effiecent use of all the ducting and filter it versus the dusty old basement air. I will probably need to fab some connections from sheet stock and  appropiate  size duct pcs.
> Here is a couple pics to reference furnace positions any thoughts about this - good idea or not. Or should I just let it pull from the basement. The manual does not talk about cold air returns.
> The cold air section of the oil furnace is directly to the  right of the ESW blower in the following two pics.
> Thanks Chris


Yes sir your on the ball, the basement will heat its self by the heat of the furance and pulling the cold air out of the living space priceless!


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## smokinj (Sep 8, 2008)

Sawdustburner said it best "hope u aint gonna burn oil much because without a damper on the esw heat riser, the oil blower will blow heat into esw & lose heat into cellar & up the esw chimney. the damper would allow the esw to blow into the plenum but not allow the oil blower to blow into esw air jacket..good luck" 




fill up with oil and use them together,you wont use alot of oil but when the fire goes out it will be a welcome back up!(and that will be one fine system)


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## Larry H (Sep 9, 2008)

Chris - 
Looking good! Show us some pics of FIRE!  You'll be happy every time you hear the blower of that ESW kick on.  It says money staying in the bank.
Larry


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## JustWood (Sep 9, 2008)

Chrisg said:
			
		

> Yes the existing oil furnace has all new duct system installed in 05 by HVAC company with proper cold air returns. I was thinking because of the way the add on is positioned in relation to the oil furnace I would tap into the cold air of it instead of just pulling from the basement. I suspect this will make for more effiecent use of all the ducting and filter it versus the dusty old basement air. I will probably need to fab some connections from sheet stock and  appropiate  size duct pcs.
> Here is a couple pics to reference furnace positions any thoughts about this - good idea or not. Or should I just let it pull from the basement. The manual does not talk about cold air returns.
> The cold air section of the oil furnace is directly to the  right of the ESW blower in the following two pics.
> Thanks Chris




I had that same unit about 5 years ago . Yes tapping the cold air return is an excellent idea.


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## Chrisg (Feb 4, 2009)

Just wanted to take minute and give an update on the performance of the add on. I am very pleased with the heat output we are getting from this unit, it heats 2400 sq ft plus full basement with no issues. It does need to be fed during the night when it's 10 above to 20 below but other than that it will roll right thru the night if tended around 9 to 10 before bed. Wood consumption is moderate at almost 5 cords that is from end of sept to now. 

In the beginning I struggled a little to find the sweet spot for air controls but have a pretty good handle on it now, top control slightly over half closed and bottom air one "cog" open( the metal bars cast into the knob). I was getting alot of coals after overnight burns that is why I started introducing a little bottom air which resulted in more complete burn of fuel and better heat output.The house temp stays anywhere from 74 to 80 on up this is a far cry from the 64 that we thought was good in years past.

I was alittle concerned that there would be alot of creosote because of the old technology associated with this stove,but yesterday I finally let it go out enough so I could run the brush thru it and there was barely a stitch of fly ash in the pipe. I was surprised and also pleased at this find as I figured it would be plugged tight so to speak.

We have not run the oil furnace once this heating season which is just great that was the plan and we have stuck to it thanks to this stove. Thanks Englander and every one that posts such helpful info on this site.


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## Badfish740 (Feb 4, 2009)

All you guys are making me jealous!  My poor 28-3500 is sitting cold in the basement chimney-less!  Can't want til next year...


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## oconnor (Feb 5, 2009)

CZARCAR said:
			
		

> I THINK IGOT IT NOW! if the blower fails,the pipe will get hot & the black will radiate the heat better,eh?



My guess is that they don't want galvanized pipe near the stove to avoid any off gassing from overheating it - metal fume fever is what I recall.  If the instructions say to use black pipe, then use it.  I suspect they mean don't use galvanized - shiny stainless should work too


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## freeburn (Aug 18, 2009)

Did anyone ever find the answer to why the galvanized flange came with the furnace, but they want black pipe to be used?


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