# HELP! Plumbing Closed loop wood boiler to indoor boiler



## Jcc583 (Nov 30, 2018)

Good afternoon I’m having some trouble with plumbing my closed loop wood boiler into my indoor propane boiler. I have a 125 gallon buffer tank and my design is based on the simplest pressurized storage sticky. I think I piped my supply and return into poor location. I almost think I need to flip flop them. My wood boiler is 50’ away in an outdoor wood shed. The lines are 1 1/4” O2 barrier pex. I started with 300 gallons of storage but had issues so I now have 125 gallons and will be adding another 125 soon. I may have had an air lock issue but I couldn’t get my supply line to pump hot water into buffer tank. The return kept getting hotter and hotter and yes I triple checked my plumbing. My pictures will hopefully explain better. You will see my return for buffer is piped into my return manifold right before the pump, I think this is working against me! I appreciate all help


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## Woodman1 (Nov 30, 2018)

Can't see the picture


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## Jcc583 (Nov 30, 2018)

Added


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## Jcc583 (Nov 30, 2018)

Woodman1 said:


> Can't see the picture


I just posted more it’s waiting approval, I have the pictures in my profile aswell. Thanks!


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## Gasifier (Nov 30, 2018)

Why are the two valves closed?


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## Gasifier (Nov 30, 2018)

Or are there four valves closed?


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## Jcc583 (Nov 30, 2018)

Gasifier said:


> Or are there four valves closed?


Pictures aren’t during operation. Valves are closed till I get working correctly


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## Gasifier (Nov 30, 2018)

So what controls the circulation pump? Aqua stat turns pump on at certain temperatures?

Sorry. I’m no plumbing expert. Just trying to see where everything goes in pictures is tough. Maybe a little more explanation of how System works will spark someone to ask the right question (s). ?


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## Gasifier (Nov 30, 2018)

I had mine plumbed like simplest pressurized storage sticky as well. Plumbed in parallel to oil boiler.


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## Jcc583 (Nov 30, 2018)

Gasifier said:


> I had mine plumbed like simplest pressurized storage sticky as well. Plumbed in parallel to oil boiler.


That is exactly how mine is aswell


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## Gasifier (Nov 30, 2018)

So was there heat demand from somewhere to turn circulating pump on?


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## Gasifier (Nov 30, 2018)

I’m really hoping someone who knows much more than I do about this chimes in! LOL

How much do you know about this stuff? Is this your first time doing this?


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## Jcc583 (Nov 30, 2018)

I ran with and without a call. It’s ran by a taco 501 and a r89a with a break on rise aquastat. All zones are ran parallel, end switch’s powers load circulator and oil boiler based on aqua.


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## maple1 (Dec 1, 2018)

You might need to clarify some things. Like - what is the exact problem? I think you said can't get wood heat to buffer. But you also said return gets hot? Which sounds like heat is going thru buffer? Kind of hard to follow piping flows in pics. Can you add arrows? But I see a couple of high spots that would make real good airlock spots, with no bleed points.


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

This shows flow bleeders and air separaters. Thanks!


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

I was also concerned with this return manafold and my position next to pump. I was thinking that pump could create a pull on my buffer return line. As my wood boiler climbed to around 260• my oil boiler ended up blowing off at the pressure relief valve!


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

Jcc583 said:


> This shows flow bleeders and air separaters. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You can see check valves in each line circled in white


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

Jcc583 said:


> You can see check valves in each line circled in white


Weighted I forgot to add.


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

Other thought is maybe my three speed pump from boiler was pumping directly to system and not cycling through buffer as designed. Just throwing thoughts out.


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## maple1 (Dec 1, 2018)

Think you need to go one step at a time. 

My first step would be get the wood boiler going, open the two ball vales on the pex coming in, & observe what happens.


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## maple1 (Dec 1, 2018)

Jcc583 said:


> Other thought is maybe my three speed pump from boiler was pumping directly to system and not cycling through buffer as designed. Just throwing thoughts out.



That would mean your wood heated water is going right to your system when it is needed. Which I wouldn't call a bad thing?

Might still be my eyes, but I still am not seeing bleed points on those two high loops to the right of the tank.


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## maple1 (Dec 1, 2018)

And which way are those check valves allowing flow? I haven't checked out that sticky for a long time, but something isn't looking quite right there.

I have to go out for most of the day though so won't be back to this for quite a while.


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## TCaldwell (Dec 1, 2018)

I tend to think  it might be the above thought. Also I  believe the purge valves are on the wrong side of the ball valves on the zone returns, if you opened the purge valves you’d be purging the boiler instead of the zone.


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## Woodman1 (Dec 1, 2018)

To start, the tees in the storage are oriented wrong. Should be a straight shot from wood boiler to storage. Supply and return to house should be going up from tees. Next, it looks like a big air trap where the circulator is with no way to vent. Those are a couple places I would start


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

Woodman1 said:


> To start, the tees in the storage are oriented wrong. Should be a straight shot from wood boiler to storage. Supply and return to house should be going up from tees. Next, it looks like a big air trap where the circulator is with no way to vent. Those are a couple places I would start


So I need to turn the tees towards the direction of the wood boiler and add a air vent in top section of load supply? Is the supply and return from storage into house manifold the correct idea?


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

Woodman1 said:


> To start, the tees in the storage are oriented wrong. Should be a straight shot from wood boiler to storage. Supply and return to house should be going up from tees. Next, it looks like a big air trap where the circulator is with no way to vent. Those are a couple places I would start


Your saying the boiler lines shouldn’t be meeting a tee, I see what your saying!


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

I’ll have to drain boiler and tank to correct the tees! Any further suggestions are appreciated so I can address well drained! Thank you!!


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

maple1 said:


> And which way are those check valves allowing flow? I haven't checked out that sticky for a long time, but something isn't looking quite right there.
> 
> I have to go out for most of the day though so won't be back to this for quite a while.


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

TCaldwell said:


> I tend to think  it might be the above thought. Also I  believe the purge valves are on the wrong side of the ball valves on the zone returns, if you opened the purge valves you’d be purging the boiler instead of the zone.


You have me thinking! This system was in when I bought house, I’m adding the wood and buffer. The purge setup is as you stated or I’m missing something!


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## Woodman1 (Dec 1, 2018)

I don't like how the return makes that big up/down loop. And I hope you have a bigger expansion tank somewhere you didn't show


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## maple1 (Dec 1, 2018)

Jcc583 said:


> I’ll have to drain boiler and tank to correct the tees! Any further suggestions are appreciated so I can address well drained! Thank you!!



Some suggestions have been made that you haven't fully addressed yet. I am reading kind of a scattered approach to trying to figure out what's going on here. So more should be done here to try to sort things out now before draining everything - methodically, one thing at a time.

To repeat somewhat. You at first said heat isn't getting to storage. Then said return got hot. Which is kind of contradicting. So - first things first. Maybe elaborate on that. Then get your wood boiler going, and only open the two ball valves at the ends of the pex coming in. Make sure wood heat is going through the storage tank. Then open that to the system with the other two ball valves & see what happens. Does the heat go anywhere further at all? If so, where? And when?

First obvious possible trouble spots I see are the high spots on the top of those two pipe runs between the storage & the system. I don't see anywhere to get the air out. And as mentioned above, that's not plumbed very good for getting air out of the zones. But if the house is otherwise heating OK, there must not be an air issue there. Is the house otherwise heating OK?

If you work through this one step at a time, you might not need any serious replumbing & it might work - aside from maybe air vents at those high spots.


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## Woodman1 (Dec 1, 2018)

I agree with maple. Isolate the house side and make sure the wood and storage side works correctly first. Expansion tank?


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

maple1 said:


> Some suggestions have been made that you haven't fully addressed yet. I am reading kind of a scattered approach to trying to figure out what's going on here. So more should be done here to try to sort things out now before draining everything - methodically, one thing at a time.
> 
> To repeat somewhat. You at first said heat isn't getting to storage. Then said return got hot. Which is kind of contradicting. So - first things first. Maybe elaborate on that. Then get your wood boiler going, and only open the two ball valves at the ends of the pex coming in. Make sure wood heat is going through the storage tank. Then open that to the system with the other two ball valves & see what happens. Does the heat go anywhere further at all? If so, where? And when?
> 
> ...


Well the issue was that when I fired the wood boiler up it was able to dump the heat, the return lines at the boiler where it meets the boiler are what where becoming hot it seemed as if it was almost plumbed in backwards even in the house it seemed the return pex was hotter than the supply. After the boiler passed 220+ it blew the pressure relief valve on the oil boiler filling the basement with water. The wood boiler never was able to return cool water or fill buffer.


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

Jcc583 said:


> Well the issue was that when I fired the wood boiler up it was able to dump the heat, the return lines at the boiler where it meets the boiler are what where becoming hot it seemed as if it was almost plumbed in backwards even in the house it seemed the return pex was hotter than the supply. After the boiler passed 220+ it blew the pressure relief valve on the oil boiler filling the basement with water. The wood boiler never was able to return cool water or fill buffer.


Wood boiler wasn’t able to dump heat sorry.


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## maple1 (Dec 1, 2018)

What about the expansion question also asked earlier? I see no temp or pressure on the guage on the wood boiler. More pics of that end might help.


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

Woodman1 said:


> I agree with maple. Isolate the house side and make sure the wood and storage side works correctly first. Expansion tank?


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

maple1 said:


> What about the expansion question also asked earlier? I see no temp or pressure on the guage on the wood boiler. More pics of that end might help.


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

I had good pressure until my temperature started to pass 220 that’s when I got to 20+.


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## maple1 (Dec 1, 2018)

If heat isn't getting out of the wood boiler then seems the problem is all the way back there. As long as the valves weren't all closed. Can't tell much on the wood boiler piping since the pics seem to be of work in progress. First thing to rule out is airlock. Did you purge all air from all lines with house dhw pressure?


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

Ok First I had a thermostatic bypass at wood boiler to help eliminate cold water return but it turned into more of a headache then I felt it was worth!  Now I have a 3 speed taco 0015 pulling from wood boiler on supply which is 1 1/4” copper to 1 1/4” pex. Nothing fancy just hot supply cold return. I attempted to fill system two ways. The fist time I filled manually with a hose both the boiler and buffer using gravity.Second time I allowed my system to fill buffer and boiler, that time the buffer was filled with hot water from my oil boiler and seemed great “no wood heat yet” and looped only through boiler and buffer. I never attempted to open zones and run everything through one giant loop in an effort to eliminate air which now that I think about makes sense as to ensure it travels through air scoop on boiler supply. So as you stated this morning I agreed 100% with the flow on my buffer Tees being incorrect and my potential for air lock in load supply plumbing. Being said I have disassembled everything and installed ball valves on both manifolds to allow me to re plumb load supply plumbing well allowing system to still function. My thought was to install an additional air scoop on buffer supply and possibly make straighter runs. And obviously correct buffer Tees! My DHW is an indirect water heater and I assume you suggest because it offers the smallest loop? I really appreciate the help and apologize for my 100 mph approach. I added a few pictures to provide update.


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

I’ll add this is my first attempt at plumbing and am just a DIY guy. I know when I need help.


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## Woodman1 (Dec 1, 2018)

Where is the circulator at between the wood boiler and storage?


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## Woodman1 (Dec 1, 2018)

Nothing wrong with DIY but you need to be careful. Your working with things here that could hurt you or your existing system if something goes wrong


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

Woodman1 said:


> Where is the circulator at between the wood boiler and storage?


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## Bad LP (Dec 1, 2018)

Woodman1 said:


> I don't like how the return makes that big up/down loop. And I hope you have a bigger expansion tank somewhere you didn't show



Yup and not having the pipe level would drive me insane. 

Is there a reason you can't go to the wall for the return?


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## Woodman1 (Dec 1, 2018)

that's what I was afraid of. The only way you will get heat to the storage like that is after it goes through the house and back through the oil boiler and back to storage return.  Were the valves on the house side open or closed when you fired last? I think You need to move that circulator between the wood boiler and storage and plumb those tees the way I suggested


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## Woodman1 (Dec 1, 2018)

I think you have a lot of issues with your current layout that need to be addressed. There should be no problem with the thermostatic bypass if it is plumbed correctly. You will do a lot of damage to your wood boiler without it


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## Woodman1 (Dec 1, 2018)

I would go back to square one and start there


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

Bad LP said:


> Yup and not having the pipe level would drive me insane.
> 
> Is there a reason you can't go to the wall for the return?


What’s not level?


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

Woodman1 said:


> that's what I was afraid of. The only way you will get heat to the storage like that is after it goes through the house and back through the oil boiler and back to storage return.  Were the valves on the house side open or closed when you fired last? I think You need to move that circulator between the wood boiler and storage and plumb those tees the way I suggested


There is a pump from wood boiler to storage


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## Gasifier (Dec 1, 2018)

Is there a mixing valve somewhere? Is it possible it is not installed in the right direction?


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

Woodman1 said:


> that's what I was afraid of. The only way you will get heat to the storage like that is after it goes through the house and back through the oil boiler and back to storage return.  Were the valves on the house side open or closed when you fired last? I think You need to move that circulator between the wood boiler and storage and plumb those tees the way I suggested


This design is exactly as the simplest pressurized storage sticky.


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

Gasifier said:


> Is there a mixing valve somewhere? Is it possible it is not installed in the right direction?


Everything is correct, I believe air lock was the issue.


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## Gasifier (Dec 1, 2018)

Jcc583 said:


> Everything is correct, I believe air lock was the issue.



Hope you got it. Keep us up to date!


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

Gasifier said:


> Hope you got it. Keep us up to date!


I’ll get it, I’ve come to far not to! I appreciate the encouraging words!


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## maple1 (Dec 1, 2018)

Jcc583 said:


> There is a pump from wood boiler to storage



Where is it?


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

maple1 said:


> Where is it?


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

maple1 said:


> Where is it?


Tees corrected.


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## maple1 (Dec 1, 2018)

That's not in a good spot.


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

Why’s that? I was told by the manager of maintenance/ammonia/hvac it was the best. Our hole process is ran by boilers. “Chobani” Pumps on returns create air bubbles that just grow. What makes you feel mines incorrect? Thanks.


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## maple1 (Dec 1, 2018)

If you want it there it should have an air scoop upstream between it and the boiler outlet, and the expansion tank should also be tied in at that scoop.

Getting ahead of yourself again. Need to start at the basics.


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## maple1 (Dec 1, 2018)

My circs are all down low. No issues. Not sure what you mean by bubbles growing. Primary principal: the circ needs pressure at its inlet. Yours is at the highest (lowest pressure) point in the system with no way to get air out.


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

maple1 said:


> My circs are all down low. No issues. Not sure what you mean by bubbles growing. Primary principal: the circ needs pressure at its inlet. Yours is at the highest (lowest pressure) point in the system with no way to get air out.


His concept was on the supply it can push the air out, when on return there’s lots of turbulence and air bubbles just grow not being pushed. I understand what your saying 100% thanks!


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## maple1 (Dec 1, 2018)

I'm no pro but that makes no sense to me. And in that high spot there is nowhere for the air to go.


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

maple1 said:


> I'm no pro but that makes no sense to me. And in that high spot there is nowhere for the air to go.


I’ll speak with him again to clarify. Our processing and pasteurization is all ran by boilers, making yogurt is high tech now lol super impressive! I’m no expert either! Thanks again.


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## Jcc583 (Dec 1, 2018)

I may be exp


Jcc583 said:


> I’ll speak with him again to clarify. Our processing and pasteurization is all ran by boilers, making yogurt is high tech now lol super impressive! I’m no expert either! Thanks again.


I May be explaining wrong to.


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## maple1 (Dec 2, 2018)

Also, you really should have a thermostatic valve in place to keep wood boiler return above 140. Especially with a conventional ( dirty) boiler. If there were some kind of issues from trying to use it chances are it wasnt causing them rather issues were caused by improper installation. What kind of valve is it? You migh need a throttling valve on the bypass leg. And make sure it and circulator are installed right.

Then there is your other bigger storage tank and why it caused issues? More untold story there, because it shouldn't have. And your pics of your expansion tank show it tied to that bigger tank. Which I dont think is tied in anymore? So where is it tied to now? More untold things. Then there is the exercise of setting system pressure and corresponding expansion tank precharge.


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## Woodman1 (Dec 2, 2018)

And why did you have a run away boiler that allowed the water to get past 220? With only 150 gallons of storage that boiler will be idling a lot. You need to have it set at 180 or lower until you get things straightened out


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## Jcc583 (Dec 2, 2018)

maple1 said:


> Also, you really should have a thermostatic valve in place to keep wood boiler return above 140. Especially with a conventional ( dirty) boiler. If there were some kind of issues from trying to use it chances are it wasnt causing them rather issues were caused by improper installation. What kind of valve is it? You migh need a throttling valve on the bypass leg. And make sure it and circulator are installed right.
> 
> Then there is your other bigger storage tank and why it caused issues? More untold story there, because it shouldn't have. And your pics of your expansion tank show it tied to that bigger tank. Which I dont think is tied in anymore? So where is it tied to now? More untold things. Then there is the exercise of setting system pressure and corresponding expansion tank precharge.


The larger storage tank leaked. And the expansion is hooked into smaller tank now.


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## maple1 (Dec 2, 2018)

Woodman1 said:


> And why did you have a run away boiler that allowed the water to get past 220? With only 150 gallons of storage that boiler will be idling a lot. You need to have it set at 180 or lower until you get things straightened out



We dont know what kind of boiler it is so not sure its heat generating potential. Plus the underground piping isn't the best stuff but it might be adequate. But definitely also consider over heat things yes. Another aspect to address. No dumping ability in place. And the controls should have knocked the edge off the burn earlier. Yet more basics to sort.


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## Bad LP (Dec 2, 2018)

Jcc583 said:


> What’s not level?



The return line up at the bottom of the floor joists.


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## TCaldwell (Dec 2, 2018)

I suspect you could reach out to nofossil, the author of the sticky. He’s not the easiest to reach but you could try nofossil.org or vesta controller.


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## salecker (Dec 2, 2018)

My main circ for the wood boiler is also at the highest point in the hot supply line to storage,never any problems. In fact one hydronic specialist commented to the fact that i had wisely put the circ at the highest point.The circ that supply's my plate heat ex-changer which supply's the house is at the same height and no issues with it either.
 You do need boiler protection,i use a near boiler pump instead of a mixing valve,no problems with it either.


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## Jcc583 (Dec 2, 2018)

maple1 said:


> We dont know what kind of boiler it is so not sure its heat generating potential. Plus the underground piping isn't the best stuff but it might be adequate. But definitely also consider over heat things yes. Another aspect to address. No dumping ability in place. And the controls should have knocked the edge off the burn earlier. Yet more basics to sort.


It’s a add on wood boiler with a small amount of internal storage. I think maybe 60 gallons. So if not circulating correctly it will over heat unless you maybe had built a small fire.


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## Jcc583 (Dec 2, 2018)

salecker said:


> My main circ for the wood boiler is also at the highest point in the hot supply line to storage,never any problems. In fact one hydronic specialist commented to the fact that i had wisely put the circ at the highest point.The circ that supply's my plate heat ex-changer which supply's the house is at the same height and no issues with it either.
> You do need boiler protection,i use a near boiler pump instead of a mixing valve,no problems with it either.


I’m addressing my air issue and my plumbing to storage and feel confident aswell. Thank you for your positive re enforcement.


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## Jcc583 (Dec 2, 2018)




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## maple1 (Dec 2, 2018)

salecker said:


> My main circ for the wood boiler is also at the highest point in the hot supply line to storage,never any problems. In fact one hydronic specialist commented to the fact that i had wisely put the circ at the highest point.The circ that supply's my plate heat ex-changer which supply's the house is at the same height and no issues with it either.
> You do need boiler protection,i use a near boiler pump instead of a mixing valve,no problems with it either.



Do you have an air scoop or vent up there with it? Where is your expansion tied in? No doubt pumping away can be good but usually those are corresponding requirements or recommendations.


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## Woodman1 (Dec 2, 2018)

The near storage plumbing looks much better both functionally and visually. As long as you can get the air out it should work now. 

As far as controlling the wood boiler there should be some type of aqua stat to turn off the  blower to limit your water temperature.


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## Jcc583 (Dec 2, 2018)




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## Jcc583 (Dec 2, 2018)

Everything is circulating correctly! Looking like I’m on track!


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## Jcc583 (Dec 2, 2018)

Woodman1 said:


> The near storage plumbing looks much better both functionally and visually. As long as you can get the air out it should work now.
> 
> As far as controlling the wood boiler there should be some type of aqua stat to turn off the  blower to limit your water temperature.


I have a high low for fan and circulator which is working as it should!


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## Jcc583 (Dec 2, 2018)

My propane boiler auto fill and air scoop are doing a great job! I also closed the supply between buffer and propane well leaving return open allowing propane boiler circulator to “prime” buffer obviously I opened supply when I felt buffer was full and pressurized. This helped send water through supply! After which my auto fill ran as everything circulated and I knew it was primed!


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## Gasifier (Dec 2, 2018)

Alright! Glad you got it solved!


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## Jcc583 (Dec 3, 2018)

After I get everything 100% I plan on adding an arduino board that records in and out temperatures, tank temps and burn cycles, along with some other fun automation. Stay tuned the fun is just kicking off! And no I’ve never done automation but the internet is a beautiful tool! First I gotta get my storage to burn  cycle managed manually by size of wood load vs outside temperature basically learning its capabilities. Also get my second storage tank incorporated or put a plan in place. I appreciate all the help and there are some smart people on here doing some amazing things! Where there’s a will there’s a way!


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## Woodman1 (Dec 3, 2018)

That sounds real good and I wish you the best of luck. However don't underestimate the beauty of simplicity. My automation amounts to 1000 gallons of storage and a 6 hour burn in my EKO once every 24 hours. Keep us posted


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## maple1 (Dec 3, 2018)

I really appreciate my Maverick bbq thermometer when the power goes out.

Do you know what will happen if you lose power in the middle of a good burn? That's the main time where a heat dump is important.


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## Jcc583 (Dec 3, 2018)

maple1 said:


> I really appreciate my Maverick bbq thermometer when the power goes out.
> 
> Do you know what will happen if you lose power in the middle of a good burn? That's the main time where a heat dump is important.


I’m planning on putting a solar battery back up with my garage as dump but need time and money.


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## Jcc583 (Dec 3, 2018)

I currently have a generac grid tied propane generator aswell.


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## salecker (Dec 3, 2018)

maple1 said:


> Do you have an air scoop or vent up there with it? Where is your expansion tied in? No doubt pumping away can be good but usually those are corresponding requirements or recommendations.


I have no air scoops,i took all the auto air removers off i suspected they were letting in air.This year i had no air to let out before my initial firing.Also never added any water this year,and the system went to max temp yesterday and no water blew out of my pressure valve.So i finally have enough expansion and the system is doing what it's supposed to.
My expansion is higher than the circ's,and tied in before the circ's


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## Jcc583 (Dec 4, 2018)




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## Jcc583 (Dec 4, 2018)

Well the saga continues! Wood to thermal worked perfectly! Thermal to system not so much still struggling with that supply line! Highest temp was 150 in supply! Buffer was 220 top to bottom! God damn air! Is that Taco 007 large enough to pull from tank?


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## Jcc583 (Dec 4, 2018)




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## Jcc583 (Dec 4, 2018)

I’m also thinking my gated check valve placement was a terrible idea! That may be limiting flow! I know I had flow when I ran propane and thermal together. So now I’m confused.


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## Woodman1 (Dec 4, 2018)

007 should be fine. I don't know why you need the check valve you have installed, but it shouldn't hurt anything either. Close the valve to house and try cracking open the circulator flange while it is running to get some air out. It will be a mess but I see know other way if you have air trapped between storage and circulator


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## Bad LP (Dec 4, 2018)

My check valve caused me issues so I pulled the guts out and all was fine.


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## Jcc583 (Dec 4, 2018)

Woodman1 said:


> 007 should be fine. I don't know why you need the check valve you have installed, but it shouldn't hurt anything either. Close the valve to house and try cracking open the circulator flange while it is running to get some air out. It will be a mess but I see know other way if you have air trapped between storage and circulator


That’s exactly how I got my wood boiler pump primed! Thanks!


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## Jcc583 (Dec 4, 2018)

Bad LP said:


> My check valve caused me issues so I pulled the guts out and all was fine.


I can remove flap without disassembling piping?


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## Bad LP (Dec 4, 2018)

Jcc583 said:


> I can remove flap without disassembling piping?



Mine did. The stainless steel pin (hinge) is under the side screw. Check comes out through the large cover plate. I was not taking all that piping out to remove the swing check. I would have cut it out first and used some slip couplings or a union.


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