# How many are using a programmable thermostat?



## dmac80 (Nov 14, 2014)

Just curious how many out there are using a programmable thermostat and having success with it running the program? I have one and love it.

I inherited the stove from previous homeowner and it had a manual stat attached just sitting on the mantle above. I used that and it worked just fine. Once we replaced everything in the house with programmable of course I had to try one on the stove.

About 2 years ago my findings were that there is a very important setting called 'SWING' that the thermostat must have. This setting means that the temperature set point is not a hard stop/start. For example if I set the thermostat to  70 degrees with swing set at 0 (or if there is no swing option), it will click on at 69.5 or lower calling for heat, and click off at 70.5. This is no good because as we all know the stoves take 10-20 minutes to shut down and equally as long to get up to temp and start heating the room. In the dead of winter with a cold room it takes nothing for the stove to heat the room to 70.5, the thermostat to stop calling for heat, the stove to begin its 20 minute shutdown process and within 5-10 minutes the room to drop to 69.5 and call for heat again, thus interrupting the shutdown process. You end up with a stove that never shuts down or starts and stops too frequently.

Enter the swing setting, I have mine set at 1.5 degrees. If I set thermostat to 70, it won't stop calling for heat until it hits 71.5. Likewise it won't call for heat again until room is 68.5. That cushion gives the stove plenty of time to rest.

When the stove is operating properly (no nuisance shutdowns, etc) it works very well. Comes on during night (at a lower temp than day) as needed, heats up the area in the morning before we wake up etc.

Important, I started with a honeywell thermostat and found they don't use "SWING" settings anymore, they had something else that simply did not work. I returned it for a Filtrete that specifically mentioned the setting and never looked back.

Seems most shops discourage the use of programmables, anyone else have experience good or bad with em?


----------



## kofkorn (Nov 14, 2014)

I've run one for about 6 years now.  My stove doesn't have an on/off mode, just Hi/Lo.  I love the fact that I can keep the house comfortable with very little effort on my part.  No worrying about what setting is right, just let it go on its own.

Honestly, if you're losing the full 1 degree in your house in the amount of time it takes to shut the stove down, I would change to Hi/Lo mode.  I wouldn't be going on/off unless I have at least 3 hours off time before restarting.  It would put too many cycles on the ignitor.


----------



## dmac80 (Nov 14, 2014)

I generally run the fan/heat mode on 'high'. This tends to heat the room quicker and get to set point quicker. I suppose I should probably run the stove on 'medium' which means it will take much longer to hit set point and thus reduce shutdowns/startups. 'Low' is only useful for me when it's already lukewarm in the room and I just want the stove to run, it is not powerful enough to keep up in the middle of winter.


----------



## kofkorn (Nov 14, 2014)

I'm not familiar with your stove, but for mine, the thermostat switches between my "User" fuel setting and Low fuel setting.  So I leave my user setting at 9 and when the thermostat calls for heat, the stove automatically bumps up to that level.  When the temp in the house is higher than the stat setting, the stove goes back into heat setting 1 automatically as well, waiting for the next heat call from the stat.  

It's my understanding that you should be able to switch your stove out of "On/Off" mode and into "Hi/Lo" mode instead.  Then you can leave your setting at High and it will only run there as long as your stat is calling for heat.  Then it goes back into Low, and waits for the temperature to drop.  

Most people use this mode once the outside temp drops enough.  Having it run On and Off all winter would be killer on your stove in the long run.


----------



## richkorn (Nov 14, 2014)

Not all stoves have hi-low mode. Although a great performing (and great looking) PS, The Leyden does not. On/Off only. Wonder why it doesn't? Been running on 3301P stat since 2009. Works great - original igniter


----------



## stmar (Nov 14, 2014)

I tried a programmable but did not have good luck, it did not have an appropriate "dead band" or swing as op said. Definitely need that or it cycles way too much. I went back to the el cheapo Honeywell. Starting to snow, second wave of the storm coming in, stove will continue getting a workout.
P.S. I do have a programmable on my central heat/AC system and it works great, but I had to find the correct settings for it to function properly also.


----------



## TimfromMA (Nov 14, 2014)

Mine's programmable and wireless.


----------



## Arti (Nov 14, 2014)

Took the Honeywell Digital off of the pellet stove, Put an old Round Honeywell in I couldn't be happier it heats to the setting on the t'stat and goes to low fire.
No messing with transformers, relays, and I'll never have to change the batteries.  If I'm going to be gone for the day I turn it back 5 degrees.

I have a heatpump and an lp furnace on a multistage Honeywell setback t'stat but we just set the temp we want and press the hold button so it stays at one temp for the season. We have considered finding an old mechanical 2 stage thermostat to replace the digital one I'm not really a fan of the cph concept.


----------



## HVAC_Marc (Nov 14, 2014)

I use a Lennox ComfortSense 7000 and have my pellets as stage 1.  Set temp is 72 degrees, 1.5 degree swing, 6 degree deadband to second stage.  Second stage is the LP furnace.  

To use a single thermostat with the pellet stove you would need an isolation relay to operate the pellet stove.

R to R on thermostat
W1 to relay coil lead 1
Relay coil lead 2 to common
N.O. leads on relay to pellet control
W2 to stage 2 unit (furnace, boiler, heat strips, etc)


----------



## Threerun (Nov 15, 2014)

In the dead of winter I run mine on Hi/Lo, and it rarely kicks into high. It's wireless as well.


----------



## Papelletman (Nov 15, 2014)

I have the ux1500 on my pellet stove with the swing set at 2 degrees, would really be interested to know what other peeps set their swing margin at...


----------



## Redbarn (Nov 15, 2014)

I have a web accessible thermostatt on my M55. I run the stove on Hi/Lo.
When leaving for work, I set the thermostatt down via my iPhone.
About 30 ins before leaving work for home, set it back up and get home to a warm house.
I work variable hours so this works better than a programmable thermostatt.


----------



## Papelletman (Nov 15, 2014)

Redbarn said:


> I have a web accessible thermostatt on my M55. I run the stove on Hi/Lo.
> When leaving for work, I set the thermostatt down via my iPhone.
> About 30 ins before leaving work for home, set it back up and get home to a warm house.
> I work variable hours so this works better than a programmable thermostatt.



Did you have to use a external 24v power supply for the wifif thermostat?


----------



## Redbarn (Nov 15, 2014)

I have both the stove and the thermostatt on the same UPS. In the event of a power outage, the UPS will run the stove (provided its running) for nearly 8 hours. The thermostatt is on a transformer as its power supply.
Its rare for us to get a full power outage of 6 hours or more. We do tend to get 1 hour outages and our system can handle those ok.
I also have the internet router on another, older smaller UPS so I can still get access during an outage.
I tested all this by turning the house power off for a few hours one weekend and made sure the M55 system worked.


----------



## Papelletman (Nov 15, 2014)

Did you use something like this to power the thermostat?

http://www.amazon.com/24V40AC-24V-40VA-Transformer-Input/dp/B00MAKCNM6/ref=pd_cp_hi_3


----------



## Redbarn (Nov 15, 2014)

Papelletman said:


> Did you use something like this to power the thermostat?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/24V40AC-24V-40VA-Transformer-Input/dp/B00MAKCNM6/ref=pd_cp_hi_3



Yes


----------



## Papelletman (Nov 15, 2014)

Cool, Thanks!


----------



## lagger (Nov 15, 2014)

My Lopi AGP insert has a shut down routine that has. 3 options, I use the default that has the shut down staged in incremental steps for about 15 minutes each going into a lower heat level for each unless thermostat calls for heat during the shut down routine. Tstat set for 2 degree. Swing for cold weather and1.5 shoulder season. Tstat in Sig.


----------



## Ctwilly49 (Nov 15, 2014)

Also have Lopi AGP freestanding model. We live in NW Ct. and although Stove has T-Stat Mode I set it manually. Last Winter I ran it almost entirely on Med. Setting which kept our old House warm and comfy even with Heat that would go to second Floor. On the few occasions we had single digit temps I would run more towards High setting and was surprised at how well the Stove performed! When we installed Stove we put it a Room that would supply Heat to most used Rooms ( Old House with so many large Cast Iron Radiators and Windows gave us only 2 choices as to placement ) Sorry, getting wordy. Never tried T-Stat as Med setting works fine for our needs. Love Lopi, burns everything we've fed it, no PROBLEMO !


----------



## shtrdave (Nov 15, 2014)

I use one of the skytech 3301 and set the programming but have not used it I just put the handheld part where I want the temp taken, and I adjust it up and down like a normal wired stat.


----------



## lagger (Nov 15, 2014)

Ctwilly49 said:


> Also have Lopi AGP freestanding model. We live in NW Ct. and although Stove has T-Stat Mode I set it manually. Last Winter I ran it almost entirely on Med. Setting which kept our old House warm and comfy even with Heat that would go to second Floor. On the few occasions we had single digit temps I would run more towards High setting and was surprised at how well the Stove performed! When we installed Stove we put it a Room that would supply Heat to most used Rooms ( Old House with so many large Cast Iron Radiators and Windows gave us only 2 choices as to placement ) Sorry, getting wordy. Never tried T-Stat as Med setting works fine for our needs. Love Lopi, burns everything we've fed it, no PROBLEMO !


The nice thing about a programmable t-Tstat is the ability to set it to start. before I wake and shut down when I leave for work, return etc.  Using the tstat also lets me. Regulate the away times set point to ensure a baseline temp during sleep and work hours


----------



## railfanron (Nov 15, 2014)

I've been running a Hunter 7 day programmable that I got at Menard on sale for 10 bucks. It has 4 programs day and it works great. When it gets really cold I run the stove in room temp manual with the thermostat controlling the temp. During the shoulder season I run the stove on automatic. Been that way for two years and it works great.
Ron


----------



## VTrider (Nov 15, 2014)

If your pellet stove is compatible, a programmable thermostat should be the first thing you invest in, after getting pellets of course 

I'm going into my 4th year heating the whole house w/ pellets - was heating entirely with woodstove for 8 years prior.  My thermostat (signature) has been a godsend - I forgot how 'awesome' it is to 'wake up' to a warm house as well as come home to a warm house (all you wood stove burners take note).  No more stoking the wood stove before bed, waking up chilly - stoking the wood stove again, coming home - stoking stove, etc.

I run an Enviro Maxx and ofcourse in the Fall and Spring - run it with the stat on auto on/off (with swing setting of 2).  When I notice it cycling on/off on short durations, I flip it to high/low - which it will stay 24/7 until Spring.  Heating with pellets, in conjuction with this a stat has saved us thousands over the last few years - I want to say screw the oil guy, but hey - it's just his job, right?  Screw the oil industry, Go Pellets!


----------



## dmac80 (Nov 17, 2014)

Wow, great to see all the replies.

For those who do not have a HI/LO (I have a quadra-fire, I assume I don't have this?) do you find it acceptable for the stove to shutdown and start back up several times during the day with a swing of say 1-3 degrees?

As stated without swing, the stove constantly shuts down and starts up mid shutdown, I know this is bad and to be avoided at all costs..... But with the swing I'd say it shuts down/starts every hour or two during the day. (with at least 15-20 minute 'rest', sometimes longer before starting back up) My stove has *Hi*, *Med*, *Lo* switch on the side of the stove that controls how much pellets fall at a time and how high the fan blows. I have found that leaving it on *med* lets the stove take a little longer to reach set point and go past the swing and shut down. If I want the stove to stay constantly running as it gets close to shutdown point I have to manually hit the switch to *Lo *at which point the room temp will either stay steady or actually drop depending how cold it is outside. This seems to be the only way I can make the stove stay on indefinitely during the day. I assume shutdown and startup every hour or two is acceptable, I have yet to have an issue with the igniter going on 5th season (7 year old stove).

I am going to monitor it on a cold day this upcoming weekend to get exact numbers of startup shutdown times, will post a log here.


----------



## Papelletman (Nov 17, 2014)

I have been running mine on low with the fan speed on high. The other night when the outside temp dropped to 30 I open the feed gate all the way and left the stove on low with the fan still on high, it kept the house nice and warm.

This is my first full year with the stove but I find leaving it on low and running constant kees the house more evenly warmed.


----------



## dmac80 (Nov 17, 2014)

Papelletman said:


> I have been running mine on low with the fan speed on high. The other night when the outside temp dropped to 30 I open the feed gate all the way and left the stove on low with the fan still on high, it kept the house nice and warm.
> 
> This is my first full year with the stove but I find leaving it on low and running constant kees the house more evenly warmed.



Where is this *low* setting you are talking about? I know about my 'fan speed' switch (hi\med\lo) on the right side of stove, and I know about the feed gate in the hopper, but I don't know of any other settings.


----------



## Papelletman (Nov 17, 2014)

No that is it, just the low on the heat switch and high on the fan switch.


----------



## lagger (Nov 17, 2014)

Of course


dmac80 said:


> Wow, great to see all the replies.
> 
> For those who do not have a HI/LO (I have a quadra-fire, I assume I don't have this?) do you find it acceptable for the stove to shutdown and start back up several times during the day with a swing of say 1-3 degrees?
> 
> ...


 
a slower pellet feed \ fan will cause it to shut down and start less often, Not sure about your stove but mine can easily bypass the T-stat mode and run in manual if I want it to stay on long term, as it is though with the t-stat behind the stove, (the coolest spot in the room) it rarely shuts down and restarts except by the program settings,  If I notice the house getting warmer than desired and the stove close to shutting down on t-stat, I usually either reduce the heat output, or raise the t-stat set point.. btw using a 2 deg. swing in winter and 1.5 in the shoulder seasons


----------



## dmac80 (Nov 17, 2014)

Papelletman said:


> No that is it, just the low on the heat switch and high on the fan switch.



I only have 1 single switch (that I'm aware of) that I assume controls both heat/fan. It sounds like you are talking about 2 switches...


----------



## Papelletman (Nov 17, 2014)

Yes, the cb1200 has two switches.


----------



## mmj (Jan 10, 2015)

lagger said:


> The nice thing about a programmable t-Tstat is the ability to set it to start. before I wake and shut down when I leave for work, return etc.  Using the tstat also lets me. Regulate the away times set point to ensure a baseline temp during sleep and work hours


Where did you get your programmable T-stat from?  I have the one from Travis, but it is not programmable. Did Northstar install it or can I, who is not too techy install it.


----------



## whit (Jan 10, 2015)

My works well with a cheap programmable Honeywell. It's a fair distance from the stove - across the room - so no problem with too-rapid cycling. For a cheap thermostat that allows setting that "dead zone" Hunter makes a low-cost one that's programmable for that. Not nearly as intuitive and simple as the Honeywell to run. But it's working fine on one of my baseboard oil zones.


----------



## Harvey Schneider (Jan 10, 2015)

My MVAE has it's own proprietary thermostat. I have it set for a one degree swing and I was thinking of reducing that to 1/2 degree. I don't know what all this worry is about with restarting the stove. The igniter isn't really expensive and I value my comfort more than the minimal effort it takes to install a new one. Even with that, the igniter is now about three years old. My thermostat is intentionally about 15 feet away from the stove so that it is sensing the air temperature of the room and not just responding to the direct output of the stove. I like having a smart thermostat primarily for the night time setback capability.
My PDVC is on a digital thermostat only because I had one lying around and I consider it more accurate and more reliable than a bi-metal thermostat. It runs full bore until my workshop is up to temperature and maintains that until it runs out of pellets (half day). Then it's time for me to go upstairs and sit down. Again, my thermostat is about 15 feet from the stove.


----------



## Deromax (Jan 10, 2015)

My stove has a 4 programs per day thermostat built-in!


----------



## lagger (Jan 10, 2015)

mmj said:


> Where did you get your programmable T-stat from?  I have the one from Travis, but it is not programmable. Did Northstar install it or can I, who is not too techy install it.


Northstar installed a standard Travis T-stat with a slider, my programmable is in my sig below  bought it on ebay.. if you are already wired for a t stat, changing to nearly any 2 wire millivolt unit is easy as pie... btw mine was < 20 dollars shipped..has an adjustable swing setting and you can adjust it to match the temp on your oil\gas\electric room tstat.  I placed it to the side and behind my insert.. same place the Travis one was installed, coldest spot in the room


----------



## roadking88 (Jan 10, 2015)

Skytech 3301p


----------



## Pelleting In NJ (Jan 10, 2015)

I use the 7day programable thermostat built into my Ecoteck Ravelli. You can set two on/off periods per day, and set the stove power level and room temperature.


----------



## jjk454ss (Jan 11, 2015)

I dont use a programable on my pellet stove, but I did on my furnace.  I just don't have a consistent enough schedule that I liked it anyway.  I just keep the house pretty cool all the time, but if I'm going to be home for a while I'll turn it up a few degrees manually.

I've gotten some good info on this thread though, I think maybe I should change my settings to hi/lo, how do I do this on a Quadrafire Classicbay?


----------



## mmj (Jan 12, 2015)

lagger said:


> Northstar installed a standard Travis T-stat with a slider, my programmable is in my sig below  bought it on ebay.. if you are already wired for a t stat, changing to nearly any 2 wire millivolt unit is easy as pie... btw mine was < 20 dollars shipped..has an adjustable swing setting and you can adjust it to match the temp on your oil\gas\electric room tstat.  I placed it to the side and behind my insert.. same place the Travis one was installed, coldest spot in the room


Today we had the first power outage since I started heating with the new pellet insert..  The power in my area went out for around 35 mins.  The blowers went silent but the fire continued until it burned out. While in the kitchen about 35 mins. after we lost power I heard the blowers and the fire returned.


----------



## SmokeyTheBear (Jan 12, 2015)

jjk454ss said:


> I dont use a programable on my pellet stove, but I did on my furnace.  I just don't have a consistent enough schedule that I liked it anyway.  I just keep the house pretty cool all the time, but if I'm going to be home for a while I'll turn it up a few degrees manually.
> 
> I've gotten some good info on this thread though, I think maybe I should change my settings to hi/lo, how do I do this on a Quadrafire Classicbay?



Hi/lo is a controller setting.   IIRC your controller doesn't have that mode of operation.


----------



## jjk454ss (Jan 12, 2015)

SmokeyTheBear said:


> Hi/lo is a controller setting.   IIRC your controller doesn't have that mode of operation.



Thanks


----------



## Dmichigan (Jan 12, 2015)

I have one but never use it just set the temp on 80 and run the stove on medium non stop, its -4 out right now 76 in basement 71 upstairs


----------



## Chris_F (Feb 22, 2019)

I'm not sure if this will benefit the discussion, but in case it does:
I have a Hudson River Stove Works pellet stove, freestanding Chatham model. I do not have a thermostat on this stove at all, and habitually I run it at a medium-low setting (this stove has heat settings that go from #1 to #5 and I use #2 or #3).
I had to have the stove serviced yesterday. I picked a new company and this gentleman was far more knowledgeable and way more thorough than the two companies I previously used. Because he also spent hours more time on the stove and showed me everything he did, I feel confident in his advice, so I'll pass it on here.

He said I should install and use a thermostat because he believes pellet stoves operate most efficiently and cleanly when burning the hottest (in my case, heat setting #5) and shutting off for a while when the room is hot enough, as opposed to operating constantly at a lower heat setting like I do. He recommended an inexpensive mechanical (non-programmable, of course) thermostat because they have a 7 to 10 degree temperature swing, which allows the stove to be off for a while before starting back up. He never mentioned a programmable or even an electronic thermostat, and I wonder if the better technology resulting in the 1 degree temperature swing might be one reason why he didn't recommend those.

One caveat: I don't know if his advice was not general but rather tailored toward me in particular because I live in a super drafty very old house (likely I never can have a constant temperature no matter what I do). He didn't mention, but now that I read the replies above, I wonder if he left unspoken his thoughts on not having the stove turn off and on too quickly or too frequently.

Also, I'd like to say Thank You, because others' answers to your question has given me advice I think will help me presently. My stove does have an easy three-position switch (auto on/off, high/low, and manual) on the control panel, so I now think that I might try the high/low setting instead of the on/off setting when I do install the thermostat, just to avoid unnecessary wear and tear on the ignitor. One thing that makes me wary of the high/low setting is that ever since my stove was installed, it sputters out and dies after about 45 minutes on the low heat (# 1) setting. Though perhaps that will not happen now that the service man had me increase the combustion fan trim setting (from #3 to #4).


----------



## Connecticut Yankee (Feb 26, 2019)

We have a Chatham as well, installed back in September, and I've only run it on #1, except for bumping it up to #2 on the really cold days we had last month.  (House is pretty well insulated, so that's different from your setup.)  I just wanted to present our dealer's advice, for what it's worth.  He recommends running the stove only in manual mode (constant run), for the same reason of saving wear and tear on the ignitor.

I haven't bothered to hook up a thermostat, partly because of his advice, partly because I've been lazy, but I don't know if sparing the ignitor is worth worrying about all that much.  Despite the fact that I'm around during the day, the stove has run out of pellets many times, or I have had to shut it off for cleaning.  I just don't know how much "wear and tear" I am preventing by running on manual.  (Another factor is that I have no idea how old the installed ignitor is, since the stove was a floor model for several years.  The dealer may have put a new one in, guess I should ask, huh?  )

In any case, I found an AMP 300W ingitor at www.pellet-stove-parts-4-less.com for a quarter of the price of the OEM part from Enviro, and have it standing by, just in case.  If I ever have to install it, we'll see how it compares with the OEM, but at 1/4 the price, I could afford to go through a few ignitors, I figure.  If I do get a thermostat, I'll probably run the stove in high/low mode, rather than in on/off, because it's nice to have the constant heat.

Mind you, all this is coming from a pellet stove newbie, but these are my thoughts at the moment.  I really love this stove, it does a great job.  Dad loves sitting in front of it, he spends several hours each day.  And so does the dog!


----------



## Chris_F (Feb 26, 2019)

Connecticut Yankee said:


> We have a Chatham as well, installed back in September, and I've only run it on #1, except for bumping it up to #2 on the really cold days we had last month.  (House is pretty well insulated, so that's different from your setup.)  I just wanted to present our dealer's advice, for what it's worth.  He recommends running the stove only in manual mode (constant run), for the same reason of saving wear and tear on the ignitor.



Thank you Connecticut Yankee! Ya know, I just now noticed that this thread had previously last been responded to over three years ago! I'm still learning how to use this chatboard...I guess I have a way to go yet. I'm a little disappointed because now that I'm planning on installing a thermostat, I'm curious what experience others have had. I'm still vacillating between a programmable thermostat, non-programmable electronic thermostat (for the precise temp control), and an old-fashioned mechanical thermostat (for its simplicity and to prevent frequent start/stops since my house will lose the heat relatively soon after the stove shuts off or goes to low mode).

Since you mentioned the heat setting, I'll tell you that ever since my stove was installed, it dies out within 45 minutes if left on heat setting #1. The installer said that was "normal" and that no stove will run on its lowest setting. Clearly that's BS, but I had no idea at the time. Which leads me to the topic that I've gotten mostly conflicting advice from the installer and from three different service people. For instance: One said always keep the slide damper not more than 1/4" pulled out, while another said to keep it around halfway out (which is a good inch more out). One said to always run it at heat setting #5 or at least #4, while another said to always run it at #2 to #4 and never to run it at #1 or #5. One said none of the stoves ever can run at #1, while another said it should be able to run at #1 indefinitely. One said to keep the combustion blower trim at #3 while another said to keep it high at #4 or #5. I wonder, did your dealer mention any other advice? I'm curious to hear if you've heard the same or different tips than have I.

I'm sure that the particulars of the environment make a difference, like the external and internal temperatures, how well insulated the house is, and whether or not the installer improperly used a 6" chimney liner instead of a 4" (yes, my installer did that and I can't afford to replace the liner yet).

Anyway, cheers.


----------



## Ssyko (Feb 26, 2019)

Welcome to the forums Chris_F 

If you want to run your stove on heat setting 1 you will have to fine tune your fuel feed and combustion blower speed. All pellet stoves will run on their lowest setting they just need adjustments. Now about thermostats I have a 2000 Quadrature cb1200 it's been on a tstat most of its life. I haven't changed an igniter yet. Mine is just a plain basic tstat and it keeps the Warden warm @ a steady 72 there are a lot of honest straight shooting installers out there(some right here on the forums) and at least on here I can tell you they won`t give you a line of bs. As for your liner you should be ok with the 6" liner


----------



## Chris_F (Feb 27, 2019)

Ssyko said:


> Welcome to the forums Chris_F
> 
> If you want to run your stove on heat setting 1 you will have to fine tune your fuel feed and combustion blower speed. All pellet stoves will run on their lowest setting they just need adjustments. Now about thermostats I have a 2000 Quadrature cb1200 it's been on a tstat most of its life. I haven't changed an igniter yet. Mine is just a plain basic tstat and it keeps the Warden warm @ a steady 72 there are a lot of honest straight shooting installers out there(some right here on the forums) and at least on here I can tell you they won`t give you a line of bs. As for your liner you should be ok with the 6" liner


Many thanks Ssyko! I'm happy to hear you consider that the 6" liner should be OK. Please can you tell me why it would or wouldn't be OK, or what the good and bad aspects are (assuming there are both)? I've had a few different opinions from people who have looked at it:
The installer said it was a good thing he did it that way, so if I ever want to swap the pellet stove out for a woodburning stove, the liner wouldn't have to be changed.
The first chimney service to look at it didn't say anything about it at all.
The second chimney service said it was actively harmful, was causing excessive ash and creosote buildup in the liner, and needed to be replaced with 4".
The third chimney services said it was wrong because it was supposed to be 4", and it would significantly shorten the life of the combustion blower, but if the stove was still working fine daily after 4+ years then it was probably OK to keep it as it is.


----------



## johneh (Feb 27, 2019)

I have been using a 6 in  chimney for 17 years without any and I mean 
any creosote wood pellets if used and burnt properly produce no creosote
also how could larger venting shorten the life of a combustion blower ? 
The blower does not care what it is blowing into !  It is just a fan 
That's like saying that a 6 in desk fan will have a shorter life if it is put in 
a window . What a load of crap !!


----------



## Chris_F (Feb 27, 2019)

johneh said:


> I have been using a 6 in chimney for 17 years without any and I mean
> any creosote wood pellets if used and burnt properly produce no creosote
> also how could larger venting shorten the life of a combustion blower ?
> The blower does not care what it is blowing into !



I can dig that, thank you! It does make sense. It had been explained to me that the 6" liner impedes the ability to get a good draft, and that the fan has to work harder to push the air up and out, which also made sense to me. Since the 6 " liner has been working for 4.5 years, I'll assume it must be fine then!

I have had creosote drip out of the stovepipe connection between the stove and the chimney/liner in the past, but not in the past couple years. The stove has "#1 (lowest) to #5 (highest)" settings for heat, combustion blower motor trim, and feed rate. The heat is usually #2 or #3, the combustion blower was #3 but was just set to #4 by the most recent technician, the feed rate is #1. The slide damper used to be halfway out, but the most recent technician just set it to 1/4-inch pulled out from the most closed position. Does anything sound wrong about that? I'm burning Barefoot brand pellets that I bought about 10 months ago (stored on pallets in the basement which is usually dry), which don't seem to be as good as they had been in previous years (these have noticeably more dark bark specks in the pellets).


----------



## johneh (Feb 27, 2019)

Chris_F said:


> The slide damper used to be halfway out, but the most recent technician just set it to 1/4-inch pulled out from the most closed position. Does anything sound wrong about that? I'm burning Barefoot brand pellets that I bought about 10 months ago (stored on pallets in the basement which is usually dry), which don't seem to be as good as they had been in previous years (these have noticeably more dark bark specks in the pellets).



I know this not the manual for your stove but has the best pictures of flame 
characteristic I have found . set your slide damper to get the best flame possible 
That way you will have the cleanest burn possible Page 55
https://enviro.com/custom_content/docs/manuals/C-12145 Instruction PELLET Service Manual.pdf


----------



## Ssyko (Feb 27, 2019)

Short cut for Johneh’s link i use the same picture lol


----------



## Chris_F (Feb 28, 2019)

Ssyko said:


> Short cut for Johneh’s link i use the same picture lol
> View attachment 241508


Thank you Johneh and Ssyko - I printed this for reference. This is a huge help, as previous technicians adjusted the flame to be like the one that this page says has too much air!


----------



## Chris_F (Apr 13, 2021)

Just an update in case it proves useful to anyone else in a position similar to mine:

I connected a basic Lux T101141/PSM30 heat-only thermostat; set it upon the mantel about 3 feet above, 2 feet behind, and 2 feet to the left of the pellet stove; and set its cycle length to one marking under the 1.2 maximum.

I set the pelletstove on its High/Low mode. In both mid-winter cold temps and spring cool temps, the thermostat properly operated the stove within a temperature range satisfactory to me (a few degrees either way, which is about as good as can be in my drafty house). It worked fine whilst on High (level 5) mode. However, once the thermostat reached its set temperature reduced the stove to Low (level 1) mode, the stove consistently shut itself off after about 20 minutes or so. Since this same problem occurs every time this stove has ever run at level 1, the problem is nothing to do with the thermostat, which worked well.


----------

