# Important Magnum Baby CountrySide behind the firebox cleanout?



## Don2222 (Mar 13, 2013)

Hello

I am working on a couple stoves that do not have enough vacuum to keep the vacuum switch closed. The stoves are clean and no visible signs of what is wrong.

I just learned that Magnum in their product improvements have drilled holes in the back of the firebox behind the ash pan and inserted metal snap in hole caps in newer stoves similar to these.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Hole-Plug-4HFT6?Pid=search

*So what about the older BabyCountrySide stoves that are now plugged up after the 3-4 years it takes to plug that area up? Just got some pics of the newer stove with the cleanout cap!*

Magnum's new Baby CountrySide manual page 25

BACK ASH CHAMBER AREA: Every 2-4 weeks
Periodically inspect the back ash chambers to make sure that they have not
plugged. Contact your local dealer for the proper cleaning tools. Clean out
any obstruction that would cause the ash to not drop out of the chamber.
There is a clean out plug behind the ash pan that needs to be inspected once
a month.


----------



## Don2222 (Mar 13, 2013)

Hello

Thanks to ChandlerR
He pointed out the real cleaning problem with the Magnum Baby CountrySide with the upside down U behind the firewall. There are 2 slots in the upper corners just under the outer heat exchanger tubes. These slots must be clear of ash and open!
Poking the ash around the middle of the heat exchanger tubes makes the ash fall behind the firebox onto the top of the U and clogs up the stove! To remove this ash you must tip the baby on it's side and bang the back of the firebox to disloge this ash! Scott suggests a 150 psi compressor up and behind each leg of the U. Another fix is to drill a hole above the U and near the top for a cleaning ash vac tube and then use a hole plug like the one at Graingers in the above post.

Click on pic below to enlarge:

From  http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=6817&highlight=clean baby countryside
In the middle of the heat season, I've always done a major shut down and full cleaning of my Babyside. Since I have burned half of my corn supply, I figured the heat season was half over!! 



 Today was the day! 

Someone mentioned in another post about holes in the top of the "horseshoe" (which is the exhaust chamber of the *Baby*). I've always wondered about exhaust venting in the upper part of the stove since not all the exhaust appears to travel down and out through the bottom of the horseshoe. There HAS to be exhaust that follows the flames up through the heat exhanger tubes. 

Well, yes indeed, *there are holes up there that need attention.* Now, please understand, I've been burning this Babyside since 11/05 and have NEVER cleaned in this area to the extent that I did today. Previously, I simply swabbed an old paintbrush over the tubes to *clean* off whatever soot the scraper didn't get. 

So, when you are cleaning, (in addition to scraping out the horseshoe) pull the heat exchanger scraper out and *clean* real good in the upper outside corner of the fire chamber using an old paintbrush or something similar. This area would be to the outside of the outermost heat exchanger tubes. There you will find slots about 1/4" x 1.5". I poked them out, first with a small screwdriver and later with a piece of flexible cable. I know for certain that these openings are connected to the horseshoe, because the junk that was dislocated fell down the vertical sections of the horseshoe. You really have to fish around, because these slots do not directly open to the horseshoe. 

Now that the stove is completely *clean* (1st time in 3 years) it burns just like new. 

Sorry, I have no pics; my Canon digital took a major dump. You'll have to follow my written description. 

The thing I like is that this forum is all about corn burners helping corn burners. As I mentioned earlier, I have NEVER cleaned in this area before. Hopefully, this information will help the rest of you Babyside owners (Winn70, are you listening?). 

Oh, and AES, please create a bulletin called "Cleaning the *Baby*."


----------



## smwilliamson (Mar 14, 2013)

You really need to get some forced air into those holes in the u shape exhaust path, 150 psi from a compressor works like a charm and you will be amazed at how much comes out. Very poor design from AES, another example of how they make product with absolutely no regard for the end user. Very typical with everything they make. They go with the energizer approach to stove building and assume that stoves are disposable and you just go get a new one or toss some money into needless parts when the thing gets all plugged up.

On the full size countryside you can disassemble that exhaust path.

Good luck with your relationship with AES, they're not going to create a bulletin to help anyone clean it...damn it, that should be included in the manual. It's more likely they will create a bulletin letting you know that customers must be doing something wrong...


----------



## Don2222 (Mar 14, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> You really need to get some forced air into those holes in the u shape exhaust path, 150 psi from a compressor works like a charm and you will be amazed at how much comes out. Very poor design from AES, another example of how they make product with absolutely no regard for the end user. Very typical with everything they make. They go with the energizer approach to stove building and assume that stoves are disposable and you just go get a new one or toss some money into needless parts when the thing gets all plugged up.
> 
> On the full size countryside you can disassemble that exhaust path.
> 
> Good luck with your relationship with AES, they're not going to create a bulletin to help anyone clean it...damn it, that should be included in the manual. It's more likely they will create a bulletin letting you know that customers must be doing something wrong...


 
Hi Scott

So you are saying that:
If you pull out the ash pan and put the compressor hose up one side of the horse show area, it will be strong enough to blow all the ash above the upside down U out.

Also make sure the slots next to the outer heat exchanger tubes are clear!

See my picture above.

Seems if there was a nice cleanout plug up there, (See Arrow that points up top in pic in post above) then it would work real nice! ! !)
Maybe something like this?
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Hole-Plug-4HFT6?Pid=search


----------



## Don2222 (Mar 14, 2013)

Thanks again Chandler R

This is a great Mod and that is what I like!

From  http://forum.iburncorn.com/viewtopic.php?t=8907&highlight=horseshoe
I finally got around to drilling an access hole on my babys *horseshoe*. I measured in 6 inches from the front and down 5 1/2in from the top, or 4 1/2 for the tops lip and drilled a hole to accommodate a 1/8 in pipe plug. tapped it out and it works perfect. Now I can either blow it out with an air hose or today I used my drain snake and a vacuum and cleaned out the ash. I think charlie did it some time ago with a 1/2 inch plug, But no dimensions or pics. It doesnt interfere with the side door operation. Takes the hasssle out of getting down and tryiung to snake something up and around.


----------



## ChandlerR (Mar 14, 2013)

I agree with Scott. This is a crappy design.  The stove itself works well enough (especially after mods to the burn pot suggested by Dexter Day) and it's easy to clean for the quick cleanings but the *Big* cleaning is a pain.  I told Don that in the Spring after I'm done burning, I tip it over on it's side and get it clean...Easy but not practical during the burning season.  I'm going to drill a cleanout hole this summer and I hope it works as well as advertised.  By the way, I have heard the stories about AES and fortunately there is nothing I need from them that I can't do myself


----------



## Don2222 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hello

Well I drilled a small screw hole in the right side. By putting a SS screw in when done, it is just an extra screw in the chassis!
Results are staggering! Before I did anything, I hooked up the digital manometer to the vacuum port on the back of the firewall. Then I hooked up the AC test cord to the new high speed (105 CFM exhaust blower) the reading was -0.40 wg.
After blowing the top plenum out and blocked it up, I hooked up the manometer. It read -1.60 wg. FOUR times greater ! ! !

See video


Click on pics to enlarge:


----------



## DexterDay (Mar 15, 2013)

Don, there seem to an abundance of those stoves near you? Magnum seen a market and struck while the iron is hot. 

If you had a Leaf blower hooked up on the outside vent? I would have bet, that zero smoke/soot came in the house? 


I paint my Fireboxs every year and get zero smell in the house. The Leafblower sucks out so much air, it's amazing.


----------



## Don2222 (Mar 15, 2013)

DexterDay said:


> Don, there seem to an abundance of those stoves near you? Magnum seen a market and struck while the iron is hot.
> 
> If you had a Leaf blower hooked up on the outside vent? I would have bet, that zero smoke/soot came in the house?
> 
> ...


 
I agree, the leafblower works well. I just wanted to prove the concept here and show where the root of the problem lies. I also have a friend that owns one and banged and shook it to dislodge the ash, but now we know it needs air pressure for the proper fix. Going from -0.4 to -1.4
on the manometer proves this is the fix! These stoves were sold through many Home Depots in our area up until a year or so ago. These stoves are getting older now and desperately need this blow out service to be brought back to life!


----------



## ChandlerR (Mar 16, 2013)

Don and Dex, I guess I'll poke a hole in the side of mine next week.  I can't do the leafblower thing right now but I was thinking...If I hit the start button with the door shut and blast it with my compressed air, do you think the combustion fan will carry the bulk of the ash out?
Don, I'm going with a 1/4 inch npt plug so I can get my little vacuum hose in there if I need to.  My brother and his wife are here from SC for the weekend so we're eating well, drinking some good single malt scotch and watching the collage basketball games.  No stove cleaning this weekend


----------



## Don2222 (Mar 16, 2013)

ChandlerR said:


> Don and Dex, I guess I'll poke a hole in the side of mine next week. I can't do the leafblower thing right now but I was thinking...If I hit the start button with the door shut and blast it with my compressed air, do you think the combustion fan will carry the bulk of the ash out?
> Don, I'm going with a 1/4 inch npt plug so I can get my little vacuum hose in there if I need to. My brother and his wife are here from SC for the weekend so we're eating well, drinking some good single malt scotch and watching the collage basketball games. No stove cleaning this weekend


 
Sounds good Chan. Make sure you can get your compressor into the 1/4" hole. I tried a shop vacuum hose in the hole I drilled but it does not do the trick. You need to put compressed air in that 1/4" hole and really blast it!

*If you use a male NPT connector, then what will you cap it with that is fire proof?*

Not sure if the exhaust fan and compressor will do the trick either. You really need to blast it right in that top chamber. My success shows that little hole is well worth it!

Have a good weekend Chan and good luck with your cleanout. Please let us know how it works out for you.


----------



## ChandlerR (Mar 16, 2013)

Thanks Don!  I'm going to tap the hole and screw a pipe plug in there.  No worries.  I will be sure to let you know how it works and if there's any difference. It will be Wednesday or Thursday.


----------



## smwilliamson (Mar 17, 2013)

I went to a baby magnum yesterday up in Maine that the people have been having issues with since it was new a couple years ago. The problem they keep having is that the stop bolt which keeps the auger motor from over rotating keeps snapping. When it snaps off the auger motor winds around its own wires and eventually shorts out the wiring harness. Additionally, the plate which holds the bushing at the bottom of the hopper gets screwed up and starts grinding up pellets in the bottom of the hopper. I have rebuilt this area twice now. The dust or crumble of pellets in the bottom of the hopper gets between the plate and falls out into the bottom of the stove but because the room blower is right below it...the dust get pulled up and blown into the heat exchanger which causes the dust to catch fire inside the heat exchange tubes and then blow out as embers all over the customers floor and carpet. We are talking 4 or 5 feet into the room.

Another example of American Energy Systems making product that is unsafe and having no regard for the end user. When confronted with the issue, AES tells my customer that "THEY" are doing something wrong and have never had any reports of this type of issue. I have found this problem in 4 of my customers with this stove.


----------



## smwilliamson (Mar 17, 2013)

Ask yourself this question...why should you folks as the owners of these stoves have to modify the unit to be able to clean it? Why? Why?


----------



## Don2222 (Mar 17, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> I went to a baby magnum yesterday up in Maine that the people have been having issues with since it was new a couple years ago. The problem they keep having is that the stop bolt which keeps the auger motor from over rotating keeps snapping. When it snaps off the auger motor winds around its own wires and eventually shorts out the wiring harness. Additionally, the plate which holds the bushing at the bottom of the hopper gets screwed up and starts grinding up pellets in the bottom of the hopper. I have rebuilt this area twice now. The dust or crumble of pellets in the bottom of the hopper gets between the plate and falls out into the bottom of the stove but because the room blower is right below it...the dust get pulled up and blown into the heat exchanger which causes the dust to catch fire inside the heat exchange tubes and then blow out as embers all over the customers floor and carpet. We are talking 4 or 5 feet into the room.
> 
> Another example of American Energy Systems making product that is unsafe and having no regard for the end user. When confronted with the issue, AES tells my customer that "THEY" are doing something wrong and have never had any reports of this type of issue. I have found this problem in 4 of my customers with this stove.


 
They know there is a problem with the auger stop bolt.

Have you seen the new heavier stop bolt? Like the one on this newer baby countryside stove? See red arrow in pic below.
Click to enlarge


----------



## Don2222 (Mar 17, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> Ask yourself this question...why should you folks as the owners of these stoves have to modify the unit to be able to clean it? Why? Why?


 
Your Harman Invincible is the same way. Do you know a good location to modify and drill a hole to get my compressor needle in? Otherwise it is almost impossible to clean real good!


----------



## DexterDay (Mar 17, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> I went to a baby magnum yesterday up in Maine that the people have been having issues with since it was new a couple years ago. The problem they keep having is that the stop bolt which keeps the auger motor from over rotating keeps snapping. When it snaps off the auger motor winds around its own wires and eventually shorts out the wiring harness. Additionally, the plate which holds the bushing at the bottom of the hopper gets screwed up and starts grinding up pellets in the bottom of the hopper. I have rebuilt this area twice now. The dust or crumble of pellets in the bottom of the hopper gets between the plate and falls out into the bottom of the stove but because the room blower is right below it...the dust get pulled up and blown into the heat exchanger which causes the dust to catch fire inside the heat exchange tubes and then blow out as embers all over the customers floor and carpet. We are talking 4 or 5 feet into the room.
> 
> Another example of American Energy Systems making product that is unsafe and having no regard for the end user. When confronted with the issue, AES tells my customer that "THEY" are doing something wrong and have never had any reports of this type of issue. I have found this problem in 4 of my customers with this stove.



My buddies always has had problems with the bushing and fines falling into the back of the stove and being blown into the exchange area. 

It builds up on the top really bad. Right under the trivet. The mods we did have made it burn better (much better), but I still wouldn't want one in my house. Period. Its unsafe at best.


----------



## ChandlerR (Mar 17, 2013)

Like I've said, it's a crappy design and fortunately I have never had any auger issues. I don't sift the pellets and mine eats everything with no issues.  If I start having issues it will give me a chance to get me an Enviro Mini....remember, I have a small room and only 900 square feet.  My Baby running on low can still blow me out of the house if the temps are above 32.


----------



## smwilliamson (Mar 17, 2013)

Don2222 said:


> Your Harman Invincible is the same way. Do you know a good location to modify and drill a hole to get my compressor needle in? Otherwise it is almost impossible to clean real good!


Not true. The exchangers are accessible with the right brush. Compressed air just happens to be easier. You cannot compare a Harman and anything from AES, that is a crime.


----------



## smwilliamson (Mar 17, 2013)

Don2222 said:


> They know there is a problem with the auger stop bolt.
> 
> Have you seen the new heavier stop bolt? Like the one on this newer baby countryside stove? See red arrow in pic below.
> Click to enlarge


If they know its a problem...how about fixing it for good? R and D shouldn't stop with the customer.


----------



## ChandlerR (Mar 17, 2013)

I agree. With what I have seen, AES's customer service is non existent too.  If you go to their website and look at their forum, it's filled with unhappy customers.


----------



## ChandlerR (Mar 20, 2013)

Ok Don....did the hole thingy. I drilled and tapped the hole for a 1/4 inch pipe plug. I measured the vacuum with a Magnehelic before I started and it wasn't too bad. .90 After it was 1.25. Remember, I do not have the high altitude combustion blower (yet). I see a noticeable improvement and I'll let it run and get up to temp and see what my temps are from my heat exchanger tubes.

I have the setting at three and usually see 210 degrees. Oh, I ran out of my Vermonts and am now burning my shoulder pellets, Maine's Choice that I got from Home Depot for 160 a ton. I'll write back in a few hours.

Chan


----------



## Don2222 (Mar 22, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> If they know its a problem...how about fixing it for good? R and D shouldn't stop with the customer.


 
Hi Scott

They did fix the auger stop bolt problem for good. Engineering came up with a new Auger Mounting bracket Kit part # BC-7000. All the new Baby Countrysides come with it and the higher speed 105 CFM exhaust blower.

For the older stoves all you need is the newer auger mounting bracket part # P-8090
There is also an auger flange P5028C

All you have to do is ask and not assume nothing was done!


----------



## smwilliamson (Mar 22, 2013)

All I'm saying is that they found it to be a problem after the fact. Units were sold to consumers. Registration cards were issued. They know who these people are and they aren't going to reach out to them to let them know that there is afix and they (AES) sent something out to the public without fully testing it to see if it was safe or reliable. Consumers shouldn't be guinea pigs. You think Harman would use a soft metal stop bolt to keep an auger motor seated?

They may very well have all kinds of solutions for problems with their stoves but why should anyone have to hunt it down in the first place? Seems like that auger fix should have been stock in the first place. Jimminey Christmas


----------



## Don2222 (Jun 8, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> If they know its a problem...how about fixing it for good? R and D shouldn't stop with the customer.


 
The fix for good is this auger gearbox stop bracket! This is what I use.  See pic


----------



## smwilliamson (Jun 8, 2013)

Your bracket is on the wrong side, should stop the bottom of the motor from lifting up not stop the top of the motor from falling over.


----------



## Don2222 (Jun 8, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> Your bracket is on the wrong side, should stop the bottom of the motor from lifting up not stop the top of the motor from falling over.


 

That is per instructions, besides that, if it was put on the way you suggest, then you could not get an allen wrench in there to tighten the collar set screw.


----------



## smwilliamson (Jun 9, 2013)

Well, if it came from AES then I'm not surprised


----------



## Don2222 (Jun 9, 2013)

The stop tabs are on the bottom of the motor and it works very well.


----------



## smwilliamson (Jun 9, 2013)

very good then. It looked like it was on top.

I'm very skeptical about anything to do with that stove.


----------



## Don2222 (Jun 9, 2013)

They sure sold alot of them around here!


----------



## smwilliamson (Jun 9, 2013)

about 800 through peleltstoveusa


----------



## Don2222 (Jun 9, 2013)

smwilliamson said:


> about 800 through peleltstoveusa


 

400 more thru Home Depot!


----------



## smwilliamson (Jun 9, 2013)

no no no....pelletstoveusa sold 800 of them. Sold them through Homedepot from 2008-2010


----------



## GMadd (Oct 24, 2014)

Thanks so much for all the information. My inherited Baby runs so much better now that I've cleaned out all the places that you guys have indicated. Not sure the previous owner ever did this type of cleaning, it was a bit of a mess!  I do have the hole behind the Ashbox that I have clean that out. Would I still benefit from tapping a hole in the horseshoe area and cleaning out the horizontal portion with compressed air? Thanks again!


----------



## ChandlerR (Oct 25, 2014)

Short answer? Yes! Remember to measure twice, drill and tap once.  If you do blow it out while the stove is in the house, make sure all the doors, covers and plugs are in place. Hit the Start button and while the fan is running hit it with the air. The fan will suck the soot out so it doesn't go in the house. I do the air blast first then the rest of my cleaning.


----------



## Don2222 (Oct 25, 2014)

ChandlerR said:


> Short answer? Yes! Remember to measure twice, drill and tap once.  If you do blow it out while the stove is in the house, make sure all the doors, covers and plugs are in place. Hit the Start button and while the fan is running hit it with the air. The fan will suck the soot out so it doesn't go in the house. I do the air blast first then the rest of my cleaning.


X2 needs a root canal!


----------



## ChandlerR (Oct 25, 2014)

Yuppers! Poor design, great heat


----------



## GMadd (Oct 25, 2014)

So Don, you used a SS screw and Candler you used a Pipe plug.  Did you guys simply drill the hole and screw them in?  I see the word Tap used so I'm wondering if you actually machined threads into the hole.   That'd be a little more complex.  I might stick to root canals then.


----------



## ChandlerR (Oct 25, 2014)

GMadd, I drilled the hole and ran a 1/4 pipe tap in the hole. Easy to do. If you go to a hardware store and tell them what you want to do, they should set you up with the correct size drill, tap, and plug. You can do 1/4 inch or 3/8 but no smaller.


----------



## Don2222 (Oct 25, 2014)

GMadd said:


> So Don, you used a SS screw and Candler you used a Pipe plug.  Did you guys simply drill the hole and screw them in?  I see the word Tap used so I'm wondering if you actually machined threads into the hole.   That'd be a little more complex.  I might stick to root canals then.


Hi

I just drilled a hole and then filled it with a nice Stainless Steel self tapping screw. Easy than a root canal to do also! LOL


----------



## GMadd (Oct 26, 2014)

You know what Don, the ironic thing is that I'm a dentist!  So root canals are pretty routine for me, drilling holes in my new pellet stove makes me sweat more.  I guess I don't have to get The Baby numb?  Thanks Don and Chandler I'm gonna try to get this done sometime this week.   I'm psyched.  With the cleaning advice I already improved my flame, now I can make it even better.


----------



## stoveguy2esw (Oct 26, 2014)

Don2222 said:


> They know there is a problem with the auger stop bolt.
> 
> Have you seen the new heavier stop bolt? Like the one on this newer baby countryside stove? See red arrow in pic below.
> Click to enlarge




why don't they just hard mount the motor to the stove? the gearbox has pre-tapped holes to mount the motor assy to a plate then mount the plate to the feed tube.

kinda like we do 

if the motor Is fixed in place there should be no need for a "stop bolt" to keep it from winding up in a jam situation hell we learned that decades ago


----------



## Don2222 (Oct 26, 2014)

stoveguy2esw said:


> why don't they just hard mount the motor to the stove? the gearbox has pre-tapped holes to mount the motor assy to a plate then mount the plate to the feed tube.
> 
> kinda like we do
> 
> if the motor Is fixed in place there should be no need for a "stop bolt" to keep it from winding up in a jam situation hell we learned that decades ago



Good ideal, Like the 25-EP. It is probably more expensive to do but we get what we pay for! Right Mike?


----------



## stoveguy2esw (Oct 26, 2014)

Don2222 said:


> Good ideal, Like the 25-EP. It is probably more expensive to do but we get what we pay for! Right Mike?




I suppose, im kinda flirting with my self imposed ban on bashing the competition so im not really going to get into it too much, but looking at the pictures you guy posted of the auger motor mount im puzzled why they did it that way, but im not that familiar with their design overall so its hard to be too critical of it sight unseen


----------



## Don2222 (Oct 26, 2014)

I


stoveguy2esw said:


> I suppose, im kinda flirting with my self imposed ban on bashing the competition so im not really going to get into it too much, but looking at the pictures you guy posted of the auger motor mount im puzzled why they did it that way, but im not that familiar with their design overall so its hard to be too critical of it sight unseen


I hear ya

Well, the bracket must fit the existing auger backing plate holes and having a strong stop tab on each side of the gearbox motor is much better than the stop bolt.


----------



## ChandlerR (Oct 26, 2014)

stoveguy2esw said:


> why don't they just hard mount the motor to the stove? the gearbox has pre-tapped holes to mount the motor assy to a plate then mount the plate to the feed tube.
> 
> kinda like we do
> 
> if the motor Is fixed in place there should be no need for a "stop bolt" to keep it from winding up in a jam situation hell we learned that decades ago



Mike, do they even make these any more? Is AES still in business? With all the bad press they get, I can't see anyone buying them....and now that I think of it, where would you buy one?  HD and Lowes doesn't sell them any more.


----------



## Don2222 (Oct 27, 2014)

ChandlerR said:


> Mike, do they even make these any more? Is AES still in business? With all the bad press they get, I can't see anyone buying them....and now that I think of it, where would you buy one?  HD and Lowes doesn't sell them any more.



They have made the improvements and the stoves are still being made and sold. Maybe some people do not know but these stoves are made in the midwest and setup to burn corn by default. When they are sold they are set to burn corn by default. The improvements and changes to burn pellets worked out well so that has made them very versatile. 

We burn pellets mostly around here and also have alot of damp weather so we have to set them up differently and clean them with a cleanout hole.


----------



## ChandlerR (Oct 27, 2014)

I remember reading that they were designed for corn first. Who sells them?  They must have dealers out in the Midwest.


----------



## GMadd (Oct 27, 2014)

stoveguy2esw said:


> why don't they just hard mount the motor to the stove? the gearbox has pre-tapped holes to mount the motor assy to a plate then mount the plate to the feed tube.
> 
> kinda like we do
> 
> if the motor Is fixed in place there should be no need for a "stop bolt" to keep it from winding up in a jam situation hell we learned that decades ago






If you watch this video on auger jams I think that they don't hard mount it on purpose. They want some play to be able to dislodge jams?


----------



## GMadd (Oct 27, 2014)

And possibly prevent jams by giving the motor some play?


----------



## GMadd (Oct 27, 2014)

Don2222 said:


> Hi
> 
> I just drilled a hole and then filled it with a nice Stainless Steel self tapping screw. Easy than a root canal to do also! LOL



So I found a 3/8" Zinc Hole Plug in Lowes.   Do you think that will withstand the heat on the side of the Stove to plug the blow out hole?  Or should I look for something labeled Stainless?


----------



## Bioburner (Oct 27, 2014)

ChandlerR said:


> Mike, do they even make these any more? Is AES still in business? With all the bad press they get, I can't see anyone buying them....and now that I think of it, where would you buy one?  HD and Lowes doesn't sell them any more.


AES is still in business. They now want to charge $40 for phone help. They really had problems when they tried having china build some stoves. CL in MN is flooded with their stoves.


----------



## GMadd (Oct 27, 2014)

They give free help via email.  I have contacted them a few times in the last month.  They got back right away and gave helpful recommendations.


----------



## Bioburner (Oct 27, 2014)

GMadd said:


> They give free help via email.  I have contacted them a few times in the last month.  They got back right away and gave helpful recommendations.


Good to hear. Not like they have done any product development for a couple decades to pay for.


----------



## GMadd (Oct 27, 2014)

Hole drilled, blown, out tapped and plugged.  Stove is working better than ever!! Thanks again!


----------



## ChandlerR (Oct 28, 2014)

Good job GMadd! The zinc plug is fine as it's only zinc plated.


----------



## UNhappyMagnumOwner (Mar 6, 2017)

Don2222 said:


> Hello
> 
> I am working on a couple stoves that do not have enough vacuum to keep the vacuum switch closed. The stoves are clean and no visible signs of what is wrong.
> 
> ...


My stove has this knock out but I am unsure what to do with it. Just pop the top and vacuum? What I was reading about was drilling a hole on the right side of the stove just below the top of the horseshoe to insert a high pressure air line.


----------



## Lake Girl (Mar 6, 2017)

Spring the knock out plug out and vacuum.  Some of us have set up an attachment on a shop vac (drywall bag) that a hose can be attached to.  Feed in the hole to pull out the ash...


----------



## ChandlerR (Mar 6, 2017)

The plug behind the ash pan is the entrance of the combustion air from the outside air hose. (If you have one) I have never seen any ash in there. 

The two most important things to clean on the Baby are the two slots at each corner next to the heat exchanger tubes, and, most important of all, drill and tap the hole as explained early in this thread and used compressed air to blow out the top of the horseshoe. It is a no mess job if you leave the door shut and hit the start button. The exhaust fan sucks the dust out.  After that either do the leaf blower trick or remove the cleanout on the exhaust T and give the piping a quick brush.

I still have this stove and I do this cleaning procedure twice a season. I have had it since 2009 and other than a bad snap switch, I've had zero issues. It takes work and regular maintenance but I must be doing something right.  I've said this many times before. This is a poorly designed stove. Fortunately mine was built properly (in the USA) with good welds and little silicone, but whoever designed the exhaust path didn't think about what was in the exhaust stream (soot and ash).

I have a digital temp gauge to monitor the air coming from the heat exchangers and a Magnehelic to watch my vacuum and I know what numbers to watch for to make sure the stove is working properly. I burn Vermonts and so far they have been outstanding.  My stove runs 24/7 in the winter on a thermostat in my living room.


----------



## UNhappyMagnumOwner (Mar 7, 2017)

ChandlerR said:


> The plug behind the ash pan is the entrance of the combustion air from the outside air hose. (If you have one) I have never seen any ash in there.
> 
> The two most important things to clean on the Baby are the two slots at each corner next to the heat exchanger tubes, and, most important of all, drill and tap the hole as explained early in this thread and used compressed air to blow out the top of the horseshoe. It is a no mess job if you leave the door shut and hit the start button. The exhaust fan sucks the dust out.  After that either do the leaf blower trick or remove the cleanout on the exhaust T and give the piping a quick brush.
> 
> ...


I asked the factory rep about drilling holes and replacing the bushing with a bearing and he said "you worked on your stove modified it is no longer certified". 

We bought from, what we thought at the time, to be a great company , a wet certified company, a company what looks after its clients, and supplies great products. 

I was fool enough to be sold this appliance, have no budget to replace it, and no desire to toss it to landfill and I CAN LIVE WITH THIS.

Chandler The local dealer told us the thermostat was why the igniter's were only lasting a month so we have been running in manual mode. Do you have a solution for to fix igniter problems on the Baby Magnum Countryside when we get home it is sometimes tropical.


----------



## ChandlerR (Mar 7, 2017)

UNhappyMagnumOwner said:


> I asked the factory rep about drilling holes and replacing the bushing with a bearing and he said "you worked on your stove modified it is no longer certified".
> 
> We bought from, what we thought at the time, to be a great company , a wet certified company, a company what looks after its clients, and supplies great products.
> 
> ...



I have the manual stove. No ignitor. I run it in Hi/Lo. It stays running on low until the Tstat calls then it goes up to whatever you have the heat setting at. In my case, I have never had to go higher than 4. 320 degree heat coming from the exchanger is more than enough.  Most stoves come with an ignitor and most run off a thermostat. Ignitors last for years sometimes.  AES doesn't make their own ignitors. They have to be using standard ones that everyone else uses. I wonder why they only last a month?


----------



## UNhappyMagnumOwner (Mar 10, 2017)

ChandlerR said:


> I have the manual stove. No ignitor. I run it in Hi/Lo. It stays running on low until the Tstat calls then it goes up to whatever you have the heat setting at. In my case, I have never had to go higher than 4. 320 degree heat coming from the exchanger is more than enough.  Most stoves come with an ignitor and most run off a thermostat. Ignitors last for years sometimes.  AES doesn't make their own ignitors. They have to be using standard ones that everyone else uses. I wonder why they only last a month?


After having this Baby Magnum Countryside apart and finding leaks everywhere, miss-aligned components, improperly installed motors, painted electric safety devices and missing parts. A few emails to the Factory Technician and parts department, a couple lengthy phone calls to the parts department, and and way to much research time on-line.The Dealer or his people painted electronic and electric safety devices, not very professional, and very dangerous.

The Auger Bearing upgrade we have done I was informed the stove is longer certificated  so I cannot recommend you do this, but it sure smooths out the auger noise and seems not to jam.

Running time 18 hours 40 lbs of softwood pellets the window is still clean!


----------



## ChandlerR (Mar 11, 2017)

UNhappyMagnumOwner said:


> After having this Baby Magnum Countryside apart and finding leaks everywhere, miss-aligned components, improperly installed motors, painted electric safety devices and missing parts. A few emails to the Factory Technician and parts department, a couple lengthy phone calls to the parts department, and and way to much research time on-line.The Dealer or his people painted electronic and electric safety devices, not very professional, and very dangerous.
> 
> The Auger Bearing upgrade we have done I was informed the stove is longer certificated  so I cannot recommend you do this, but it sure smooths out the auger noise and seems not to jam.
> 
> Running time 18 hours 40 lbs of softwood pellets the window is still clean!




I have heard so many people with all sorts of issues with their Baby's. I understand that originally they were made in the USA but at some point manufacturing was done in China. I've had mine for so long that I've had it apart to clean it down to the frame. A couple of years ago, I had the bright idea to remove it from the house and completely disassemble it in my shop. It wasn't all that dirty. It proved that the blow out hole I drilled to blow out the horseshoe works really well.  I am sorry you've had so many issues with yours.  I guess the up side is you will know your stove intimately and hopefully it will be a good reliable little stove.  I may touch base with you at some point if I decide to upgrade my auger bearing. Mine is still pretty tight after 9 years, but if I did what you did, it will never need replacing!


----------



## Tails1 (Mar 11, 2017)

UNhappyMagnumOwner said:


> I asked the factory rep about drilling holes and replacing the bushing with a bearing and he said "you worked on your stove modified it is no longer certified".
> 
> We bought from, what we thought at the time, to be a great company , a wet certified company, a company what looks after its clients, and supplies great products.
> 
> ...




You could check that whatever is powering the igniter might be sending too much voltage to it. Are these 120v igniters? Also if not enough air is getting past the igniter due to poor design or a dirty stove this will also cause it to run too hot and shorten it life. Also the length of time it stays on during startup will also impact its lifespan. If there is a fault with the logic circuit (controller) that controls the igniter and it stays on too long after the stove is running it will overheat. These kind of resistive  heat elements would have a limited duty cycle. The stove plugged into a killawatt meter will allow you to see the current draw and determine when the igniter is powered, how much current (minus the motor loads) it is using and allow you to see how long it runs.

Also check the igniter circuit isn't having resistive issues due to intermittent shorts (bad wiring) or corroded connections.


----------



## Tails1 (Mar 11, 2017)

[QUOTE="UNhappyMagnumOwner, post: 2164839, member: 55375"<snip>

Chandler The local dealer told us the thermostat was why the igniter's were only lasting a month so we have been running in manual mode. Do you have a solution for to fix igniter problems on the Baby Magnum Countryside when we get home it is sometimes tropical.[/QUOTE]


That was a stupid response, if the stove is meant to operate with a thermostat it shouldn't be causing the igniter to fail in only a month. I grant that with using a thermostat would shorten the life of the igniter due to increasing its operating hours, but not after a month.


----------



## UNhappyMagnumOwner (Mar 12, 2017)

ChandlerR said:


> I have heard so many people with all sorts of issues with their Baby's. I understand that originally they were made in the USA but at some point manufacturing was done in China. I've had mine for so long that I've had it apart to clean it down to the frame. A couple of years ago, I had the bright idea to remove it from the house and completely disassemble it in my shop. It wasn't all that dirty. It proved that the blow out hole I drilled to blow out the horseshoe works really well.  I am sorry you've had so many issues with yours.  I guess the up side is you will know your stove intimately and hopefully it will be a good reliable little stove.  I may touch base with you at some point if I decide to upgrade my auger bearing. Mine is still pretty tight after 9 years, but if I did what you did, it will never need replacing!



What I knowested


Tails1 said:


> [QUOTE="UNhappyMagnumOwner, post: 2164839, member: 55375"<snip>
> 
> Chandler The local dealer told us the thermostat was why the igniter's were only lasting a month so we have been running in manual mode. Do you have a solution for to fix igniter problems on the Baby Magnum Countryside when we get home it is sometimes tropical.




That was a stupid response, if the stove is meant to operate with a thermostat it shouldn't be causing the igniter to fail in only a month. I grant that with using a thermostat would shorten the life of the igniter due to increasing its operating hours, but not after a month.[/QUOTE]
It is burning better than we can remember it ever worked. The way the components are valued and with current exchange rates there is no way we could invest in the repair to take the unit back to certification. The people we had fit the components and source the parts are just great people so we got away with a very inexpensive solution. The baby has been burning now for about 48 hours there is no build up in the fire pot and the unit is running quieter.

I am not sure if this unit was outsourced or not but am very grateful we did not have to replace it.


----------



## Don2222 (Mar 12, 2017)

Hello
Did u know there is an upgraded exhaust blower for the Baby Magnum? The original has 2 wires and the upgraded one has more amps, a taller fan blade that is 105 CFM vs the original 85 CFM exhaust blower.
The new blower motor can also be easily removed and cleaned because there is a 6" mounting plate with 6 nuts for easy removal. The new upgraded exhaust blower is magnum part # RP2030 and has 3 wires for easy identification. One wire is not used. 
The new blower burns wood pellet better, I have installed many of them.


----------



## ChandlerR (Mar 12, 2017)

I agree. The ignitor is probably a 120 volt one and the only thing I can think of that would possibly shorten it's life would be insufficient airflow. Adding the upgraded blower may help if that's the case. I would think that they are designed to last even if there is no airflow, but I just don't know.


----------



## UNhappyMagnumOwner (Mar 13, 2017)

ChandlerR said:


> I agree. The ignitor is probably a 120 volt one and the only thing I can think of that would possibly shorten it's life would be insufficient airflow. Adding the upgraded blower may help if that's the case. I would think that they are designed to last even if there is no airflow, but I just don't know.


As the dealer painter over the Motors information plate I am unable to determine if there is a standard or upgraded combustion fan installed. When I open the air intake full the pellets will blow right out of the burn pot so I am not sure I need that upgrade. The Baby is on day 3 and the glass is still clean and is providing enough heat on the 2nd setting to keep up with the winter cold. I din't have a digital  Manometer but have a Blood Pressure Manometer just wondering what the gauge should say if I hook it up? 

Thank all of you who have posted your experiences in this form if it was not for you and your input my Baby would  be scrap. 

Am I blowing all my heat out the chimney?


----------



## rafmt (Mar 13, 2017)

Sounds like you are getting your stove dialed in. I probably push more heat out my exhaust than I need to but I like keeping the ash down in my burn pot. Went 22 bags of straight burning without even opening the door. Could have went to 25 bags but we had a cold snap blowing in. Had to replace my igniter 2 years ago. Works great still. 4 years on this stove ( bought used ).  Flawless operation.  I love my Baby !


----------



## UNhappyMagnumOwner (Mar 13, 2017)

rafmt said:


> Sounds like you are getting your stove dialed in. I probably push more heat out my exhaust than I need to but I like keeping the ash down in my burn pot. Went 22 bags of straight burning without even opening the door. Could have went to 25 bags but we had a cold snap blowing in. Had to replace my igniter 2 years ago. Works great still. 4 years on this stove ( bought used ).  Flawless operation.  I love my Baby !








During a resent power outage this very crude setup ran this Baby for 6 hours before a friend stopped in with a generator large enough for the whole house. We are looking into how much solar would be required to power this baby, the lighting to maintain it, and the fridge to keep the beer cold!


----------



## ChandlerR (Mar 13, 2017)

UNhappyMagnumOwner said:


> As the dealer painter over the Motors information plate I am unable to determine if there is a standard or upgraded combustion fan installed. When I open the air intake full the pellets will blow right out of the burn pot so I am not sure I need that upgrade. The Baby is on day 3 and the glass is still clean and is providing enough heat on the 2nd setting to keep up with the winter cold. I din't have a digital  Manometer but have a Blood Pressure Manometer just wondering what the gauge should say if I hook it up?
> 
> Thank all of you who have posted your experiences in this form if it was not for you and your input my Baby would  be scrap.
> 
> ...




I still have the standard combustion blower on mine. 8 years and still going strong. I want to replace it with the higher output one but I want to wait until I need to replace this one. There is no way I have enough airflow to move my pellets, but I get 300 to 325 out of my heat exchanger on heat setting 3 so I'm not complaining.  I can go maybe 10 bags before I have to dump the burn pot.  I am so happy that you're getting the stove working right. Good job!


----------



## UNhappyMagnumOwner (Mar 15, 2017)

Don2222 said:


> Hello
> 
> Well I drilled a small screw hole in the right side. By putting a SS screw in when done, it is just an extra screw in the chassis!
> Results are staggering! Before I did anything, I hooked up the digital manometer to the vacuum port on the back of the firewall. Then I hooked up the AC test cord to the new high speed (105 CFM exhaust blower) the reading was -0.40 wg.
> ...



I have a manual manometer from a blood pressure sleeve would this do the trick and what numbers should I be looking for?


----------



## UNhappyMagnumOwner (Mar 15, 2017)

ChandlerR said:


> I still have the standard combustion blower on mine. 8 years and still going strong. I want to replace it with the higher output one but I want to wait until I need to replace this one. There is no way I have enough airflow to move my pellets, but I get 300 to 325 out of my heat exchanger on heat setting 3 so I'm not complaining.  I can go maybe 10 bags before I have to dump the burn pot.  I am so happy that you're getting the stove working right. Good job!


I am not getting that amount of heat out of my baby because she heats this place very well on the 2nd setting. She has been running very well in thermostat mode for several days now. I know I will have to take her apart again this summer to deal with resurfacing the hopper, solving the clearances problem on the auger shields installing a cleaning port for the horseshoe and maybe powder coat the top.


----------



## UNhappyMagnumOwner (Dec 18, 2017)

Well we fired the stove up after a good cleaning and she was working very well. Then the Room Blower Fan Motor Gave out. I went to a local supplier who was very helpful and furnished me with a direct replacement based on the motor and assembly I brought from the unit. Now I am very confused as this unit is a single speed blower and my recollection is that the room blower on my unit slows down when the stove has reached the thermostat's preset temperature.  It is connected to the pink wire as the diagram says could my outputs be shorted from the combustion motor's output? The Service people over at Lawson's in Moncton were nice enough to paint the electronic board so is very hard to see the CCT. 
You help last year got me through the end of the snow season and I am very pleased with all your help. If anyone decides to do the bearing modification I have had done to mine it seems to have only a couple of small issues. 
1. If you have the kids over and someone decides to bury a toy car in your pellets the auger will jam.
2. In order for the shaft to stay in place either add a spacer or as I did not want to take it apart again back out the set screw and drill a small dimple in the shaft then tork it back in. We had ours slip once and it made a grinding noise that did not do any damage but was rather annoying.    

Anyone want to trade my pellet stove for a wood stove chimney?


----------



## Bioburner (Dec 18, 2017)

Sorry for the issues. But the technology of it and design  is not very up to what the newer stoves are and have progressed to.  
Your wanting to go back to a wood stove is like going back to steam power when the new cars are here and your trying to use a model T


----------



## UNhappyMagnumOwner (Dec 18, 2017)

Bioburner said:


> Sorry for the issues. But the technology of it and design  is not very up to what the newer stoves are and have progressed to.
> Your wanting to go back to a wood stove is like going back to steam power when the new cars are here and your trying to use a model T



Anyone got the FASCO part number for the 2 speed room blower for the baby magnum.


----------



## JDub (Jan 12, 2018)

I have a newer baby, 2013 model I believe and I've been reading through the posts for a while now and definitely see the importance of cleaning the horseshoe but I can't find a good explanation on measurements to drill the holes, can anyone post the measurements or a picture or video of we're at. I've only been running it for a couple weeks now(got a used one) and I think it does alright but i think it should do more on setting 3 it barley keeps the house warm except in the room where the stove is. Thank you in advanced for replying!


----------



## johnnymac (Nov 28, 2021)

ChandlerR said:


> I agree with Scott. This is a crappy design.  The stove itself works well enough (especially after mods to the burn pot suggested by Dexter Day) and it's easy to clean for the quick cleanings but the *Big* cleaning is a pain.  I told Don that in the Spring after I'm done burning, I tip it over on it's side and get it clean...Easy but not practical during the burning season.  I'm going to drill a cleanout hole this summer and I hope it works as well as advertised.  By the way, I have heard the stories about AES and fortunately there is nothing I need from them that I can't do myself


Can somebody tell where to find the Dexter Day burn pot mod? This is my first time on here. My brother gave me a Magnum Baby out of a house he just purchased, the house came with 2 of the same, Baby Countryside. I like the stove, but it sure is burning cruddy., lots of unburned or half burned pellets.Tomorrow I'll take out the firebrick and clean all around. I bought a new pellet stove about 15 years ago and it ran great, but I paid about $3500. Now I can't remember the name of it. I'd like to use this one for awhile, then maybe get a new one. What would you guys buy if you went out today and bought one? 
Thanks,
John


----------



## Ssyko (Nov 28, 2021)

baby countryside burn pot modifications
					

so i have been burning my baby countryside for a few months now and have started experimenting with burn pot modifications with much success! I've shared my secret with CWR for all the help he gave me but for the general public i will just say. a few strategically drilled out hole in the burn...




					www.hearth.com


----------



## Don2222 (Nov 29, 2021)

johnnymac said:


> Can somebody tell where to find the Dexter Day burn pot mod? This is my first time on here. My brother gave me a Magnum Baby out of a house he just purchased, the house came with 2 of the same, Baby Countryside. I like the stove, but it sure is burning cruddy., lots of unburned or half burned pellets.Tomorrow I'll take out the firebrick and clean all around. I bought a new pellet stove about 15 years ago and it ran great, but I paid about $3500. Now I can't remember the name of it. I'd like to use this one for awhile, then maybe get a new one. What would you guys buy if you went out today and bought one?
> Thanks,
> John


If you have the steel multifuel burn pot, it works better for burning corn. There is a cast iron burnpot that works better for wood pellets. Also there is an upgraded 105 CFM 1.6 amp exhaust blower with a larger impeller blade that will burn those pellets so much better.
Also make sure the jumper setting on the back of the control panel is set for wood pellets. The default is corn. See instructions below.
The Jumper should be on Pins 1&2 for wood pellets. Also check that Round White DelRon Auger bearings, they may be due for replacement.  The new bearing is a better fit and lasts longer.


----------



## ChandlerR (Nov 29, 2021)

johnnymac said:


> Can somebody tell where to find the Dexter Day burn pot mod? This is my first time on here. My brother gave me a Magnum Baby out of a house he just purchased, the house came with 2 of the same, Baby Countryside. I like the stove, but it sure is burning cruddy., lots of unburned or half burned pellets.Tomorrow I'll take out the firebrick and clean all around. I bought a new pellet stove about 15 years ago and it ran great, but I paid about $3500. Now I can't remember the name of it. I'd like to use this one for awhile, then maybe get a new one. What would you guys buy if you went out today and bought one?
> Thanks,
> John


John, the original post was in 2011.  I have yet to find Dexters with pictures but this should help.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/baby-countryside-burn-pot-modifications.67905/


----------

