# How to attach stove pipe to an old Lopi insert if there is no collar?



## FromHollywood

I have a Lopi Model X insert that has a flat top around the exhaust opening. There is no collar sticking up in which to attach a pipe. This stove has a secondary burn tube and seems to be made almost like the new Lopi model, except for the flat top. I'm fairly certain this was made in the late 80's into the early 90's given the secondary burn tube. But, I think it was made when people just set inserts into their fireplace without worrying about connecting it to anything.

My thought is to have someone weld a ring around the top but I'm told that you can't weld onto cast iron. Is that true? I'm not certain whether the stove is cast-iron or just steel.

Another issue is that damper you see in the photo. It protrudes into the exhaust opening on-top.  My thought is to have a ring welded onto the top that has a little notch in it to accommodate that damper mechanism.

Any thoughts are appreciated. It's a well made insert and I'm looking forward to making it like new again.


----------



## fossil

I may be wrong, but I don't think you're going to find any cast parts on that Lopi other than the door frame. I seem to recall a thread on here quite some time ago concerning someone doing something similar...the damper assembly being the challenge to work into the modified system. It would take some effort searching the forums to dredge up that thread, but it might be worth it. As I recall, it was liberally sprinkled with photos. Good luck with it. Rick

ETA:  There should be a plate on the back of the appliance with a lot of identifyng info...including model and year of fabrication.  That's useful information when beginning a search.


----------



## mellow

That damper really throws a kink in things,  if it was me I would put a stainless rectangle to round insert boot on it and cut a hole for the damper rod to pass through.


----------



## FromHollywood

Thanks for the idea Rick.   I wasn't expecting to find a Lopi part that would work but rather just weld on a new fabricated piece.  It shouldn't be too difficult finding a ring of the right size and cutting out a notch for that damper rod.   But, I'm wondering if there is a better idea I'm not thinking of.

I did find a similar post but in case it's not the one you're referring to, I'll look further on the archives.   The one I remember was someone who was interested in buying one of these but decided not to because of this same issue.


----------



## FromHollywood

Mellow, That rectangular to round attachment looks interesting.   That one has a 20 degree angle to it but I'll bet I could find, or make, something similar that would work.   Thanks for the idea.


----------



## Heatsource

3 steel L brackets
screw to stove top, and screw to pipe


----------



## fossil

FromHollywood said:


> Thanks for the idea Rick. I wasn't expecting to find a Lopi part...


 
What I meant was, the top of your appliance is most likely steel plate, not cast iron as you had questioned in your original post.  The door frame for the Lopi is likely cast material, but everything else is most probably steel plate.  I don't think you'd find a Lopi factory part to fill the bill in your application either...likely it's gonna have to be custom...or at least customizing someone's available product (like the hood that mellow showed us).  Rick


----------



## FromHollywood

A1Stoves.com said:


> 3 steel L brackets
> screw to stove top, and screw to pipe


 
That sounds like the easiest thing to do but I don't think it would create much of a seal around the pipe where it connects to the stove.


----------



## Heatsource

depends on the connector, it should seat just fine into the stove
that's how i've done it for many years w/o troubles
if its sloppy, milpack it up


----------



## FromHollywood

A1Stoves.com said:


> depends on the connector, it should seat just fine into the stove
> that's how i've done it for many years w/o troubles
> if its sloppy, milpack it up


 
I was envisioning your idea was to just attach a stove pipe to an L bracket and the L bracket to the stove top.  But, there would obviously be a gap as the pipe wouldn't fit tight into the stove.    You mention using a "connector" in your last posting.   What did you have in-mind as to the actual connection between the stove pipe and the stove?  

I looked up "milpack" but couldn't find anything.   Is it some type of sealant?


----------



## Heatsource

just a basic flex connector, shouldn't be too sloppy of a fit
http://www.igscorp.com/SealantDisplay.cfm?SealantID=7
sorry my spelling was off...


----------



## robertk

Hi, I know this might be a little late but i just saw this post. I have the Lopi X and did what you are asking. When I installed the stove back in the mid 80's I just shoved the stove into the fireplace and started burning, worked great until last year  when I noticed cracks in the Masonry chimney clay tiles. Not wanting to rebuild the Chimney I installed a 6" stainless steel liner. I had my son make the adapter pieces shown in the photos. He made the bottom rings out of 1/4" steel.the top piece is 14 gauge and the 6" flue slides into it.

It's been about a year and the stove works great. It also uses less wood.
Hope this helps.

Bob


----------



## FromHollywood

Bob, Thanks so much for replying to this. Your timing is perfect!! I'm the original poster and I have not yet done this repair but was about to start this week as its getting colder here in the Seattle area.

I'm not as lucky as you to have a son who knows how to weld but maybe I could find someone on Craigslist who could do what your son did. If your son is interested, maybe I could hire him to make another one for me? If so, send me a personal reply----I think you do that by clicking on my name, choose the Information tab and then "Start a Conversation".

I'm new to wood stoves as I moved to Seattle from Los Angeles where I had never seen a wood stove before. So, fixing up this one and retrofitting the attachment is a bit challenging.

I recently finished repainting the stove and it looks beautiful. I tried to cure the paint by having some fires outside but I couldn't close the door without the fire immediately going out. I called Lopi and they said I needed to hook it to at least 10 feet of stove pipe to get it to draft enough to close the door (and not have the fire go out). So, I'm going to bring it inside and hook it up and your solution looks perfect.





robertk said:


> View attachment 78123
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, I know this might be a little late but i just saw this post. I have the Lopi X and did what you are asking. When I installed the stove back in the mid 80's I just shoved the stove into the fireplace and started burning, worked great until last year when I noticed cracks in the Masonry chimney clay tiles. Not wanting to rebuild the Chimney I installed a 6" stainless steel liner. I had my son make the adapter pieces shown in the photos. He made the bottom rings out of 1/4" steel.the top piece is 14 gauge and the 6" flue slides into it.
> 
> It's been about a year and the stove works great. It also uses less wood.
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Bob


----------



## redrig

Robertk, I am building one of these now as well, quick question for you.

I have been trying to find out how to get to a 6 inch tube at the top of mine. I have been looking at various pipes.

It looks like that top part of yours (the 6" collar") is a piece of sheet metal that your son has welded into a circle, is that correct ? meaning, he did not use a pipe right ?


----------



## robertk

FromHollywood said:


> Bob, Thanks so much for replying to this. Your timing is perfect!! I'm the original poster and I have not yet done this repair but was about to start this week as its getting colder here in the Seattle area.
> 
> I'm not as lucky as you to have a son who knows how to weld but maybe I could find someone on Craigslist who could do what your son did. If your son is interested, maybe I could hire him to make another one for me? If so, send me a personal reply----I think you do that by clicking on my name, choose the Information tab and then "Start a Conversation".
> 
> I'm new to wood stoves as I moved to Seattle from Los Angeles where I had never seen a wood stove before. So, fixing up this one and retrofitting the attachment is a bit challenging.
> 
> I recently finished repainting the stove and it looks beautiful. I tried to cure the paint by having some fires outside but I couldn't close the door without the fire immediately going out. I called Lopi and they said I needed to hook it to at least 10 feet of stove pipe to get it to draft enough to close the door (and not have the fire go out). So, I'm going to bring it inside and hook it up and your solution looks perfect.[/quote
> 
> Mine needs some repairs also. the fire brick is all original and its all badly cracked. the air tube across the top of the glass is badly damaged so I can't damper it down as much as I would like. I'm  going to repair the air pipe before this winter.
> Its a great stove. I burn every day from December until april for the last 28 years, i use about 2 cords of soft wood and the stove still looks good. the only repairs I made are replacing the door gasket and window gasket.The paint still looks good but the brass door is badly tarnished. It used to be shiney bright but its too much trouble to keep it that way.
> How about a photo of your stove now that you painted it


----------



## robertk

redrig said:


> Robertk, I am building one of these now as well, quick question for you.
> 
> I have been trying to find out how to get to a 6 inch tube at the top of mine. I have been looking at various pipes.
> 
> It looks like that top part of yours (the 6" collar") is a piece of sheet metal that your son has welded into a circle, is that correct ? meaning, he did not use a pipe right ?


 
My son is a sheet metal worker and is allowed to use his bosses shop. The top piece is 14 gauge steel that he ran thru a roller and then welded it so it would accept the 6" stainless flue pipe. The bottom is 1/4" steel and he welded tabs to the bottom of it and then drilled and tapped the top of the insert and screwed the adapter on.
  I helped him cut, prep and weld the pieces, it took about 2 hours in the shop. When we got the piece home it took the rest of the day to install the flue, remove the damper in the fireplace and chip out some brick.
Some people told me that I shouldn't neck it down to 6" but if seems to draft well. I really had no choice since my masonry flue is 7"X12". I'm happy with it.



i


----------



## FromHollywood

This is the same stove as in the first posting in this thread (April 16, 2012). Brasso worked well on the door. A previous owner had left the poor stove outside in rainy Seattle for a year so I had to cut the frozen rusted handle off and buy a new Lopi handle. The handle, new gaskets, rust remover and sandpaper, Stove Bright Metallic Black paint and new firebricks were the only things I had to buy.

Now I just have to get that collar made. Bob---did your son use a pre-fabricated 1/4" thick round ring for the bottom part or did he roll that too from a flat piece? It looks like your bottom ring is about 9" or 10" in diameter. I'm thinking it would be easier if I could find pre-fab parts and then just hire a welder to put them together.


----------



## dieselscout80

robertk said:


> View attachment 78123
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, I know this might be a little late but i just saw this post. I have the Lopi X and did what you are asking. When I installed the stove back in the mid 80's I just shoved the stove into the fireplace and started burning, worked great until last year when I noticed cracks in the Masonry chimney clay tiles. Not wanting to rebuild the Chimney I installed a 6" stainless steel liner. I had my son make the adapter pieces shown in the photos. He made the bottom rings out of 1/4" steel.the top piece is 14 gauge and the 6" flue slides into it.
> 
> It's been about a year and the stove works great. It also uses less wood.
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Bob


 
Bob, what did you use to seal the adapter to the stove top (sealant, gasket or other)?

Your son did a great job.


----------



## robertk

dieselscout80 said:


> Bob, what did you use to seal the adapter to the stove top (sealant, gasket or other)?
> 
> Your son did a great job.


 
It was such a tight fit  I didn't use anything. The stove drafts well and I get very little creosote buildup. It should be sealed though.

Yes he did, I appriciate his help. He's fast and very accurate  and..... a pleasure to work with


----------



## redrig

Thanks for the clarification RobertK, that is great work you and your son did. I am basically doing the exact thing except mine will be square at the bottom. 

I do not have access to a roller to make one like that but today I found a solution online, I found a metal mart that sells all types of pipe by the inch, and they have one that should work perfect.


----------



## robertk

FromHollywood said:


> This is the same stove as in the first posting in this thread (April 16, 2012). Brasso worked well on the door. A previous owner had left the poor stove outside in rainy Seattle for a year so I had to cut the frozen rusted handle off and buy a new Lopi handle. The handle, new gaskets, rust remover and sandpaper, Stove Bright Metallic Black paint and new firebricks were the only things I had to buy.
> 
> Now I just have to get that collar made. Bob---did your son use a pre-fabricated 1/4" thick round ring for the bottom part or did he roll that too from a flat piece? It looks like your bottom ring is about 9" or 10" in diameter. I'm thinking it would be easier if I could find pre-fab parts and then just hire a welder to put them together.
> 
> View attachment 78266


You did a great job, that stove looks brand new. Hard to belive its the same stove.I going to try the Brasso.

Did you have any broken parts inside the stove? I over fired mine so many times I melted the air tube above the door, cracked one of the air supply tubes at the top of the stove and burnt away most of the angles supporting the fire bricks at the top.

The bottom collar was rolled from flat plate steel. My son figured the circumfrence from the 10 inch diameter, cut it to length then ran it through the roller. He rolled it until the two ends touched and welded it together. the flat ring that sits on top is also 1/4 inch steel. He cut that on a CNC plasma cutter then welded the two pieces together.
the right tools do make the job a lot easier. You might have luck finding a 10 steel tube cut off at a steel fabricator's shop.


----------



## FromHollywood

robertk said:


> You did a great job, that stove looks brand new. Hard to belive its the same stove.I going to try the Brasso.
> 
> Did you have any broken parts inside the stove? I over fired mine so many times I melted the air tube above the door, cracked one of the air supply tubes at the top of the stove and burnt away most of the angles supporting the fire bricks at the top.
> 
> The bottom collar was rolled from flat plate steel. My son figured the circumfrence from the 10 inch diameter, cut it to length then ran it through the roller. He rolled it until the two ends touched and welded it together. the flat ring that sits on top is also 1/4 inch steel. He cut that on a CNC plasma cutter then welded the two pieces together.
> the right tools do make the job a lot easier. You might have luck finding a 10 steel tube cut off at a steel fabricator's shop.


 
Yes, it came out nicely. Mine was ok inside. Nothing broken luckily. Its only abuse by the previous owner was in leaving it outside for a year. That created a lot of rust inside and outside.

I had an idea to buy a 10" diameter used cast iron pot and cut out the bottom circle by drilling a bunch of small holes (leaving maybe an inch all around) and then using a diamond blade saw to remove it. That would give me the lower piece of what you have. I could then find someone to weld on a length of stove pipe and those screw tabs. Would not be as nice as what you have but I don't have access to someone to fabricate it for me. I sent your photo to the local sheet metal shop asking for a quote on making what your son did. I'll bet it will be very expensive though. I suppose it could all be made out of 16 gauge instead of the 1/4" which would make it less expensive. Too bad Lopi doesn't make one of these for their older stoves.

What is a "10 steel tube cut off"? Do you mean a 10 inch diameter steel tube? That sounds like it would work but I didn't know they made tubes that wide.

Newer stoves just have a round collar where the stove pipe attaches so if I could find an 8" round ring of the appropriate inner-diameter, a few inches tall, that might work itself and just have that welded directly to the stove.   I'm not familiar with what types of metals would be ok in such a hot environment.


----------



## robertk

FromHollywood said:


> Yes, it came out nicely. Mine was ok inside. Nothing broken luckily. Its only abuse by the previous owner was in leaving it outside for a year. That created a lot of rust inside and outside.
> 
> I had an idea to buy a 10" diameter used cast iron pot and cut out the bottom circle by drilling a bunch of small holes (leaving maybe an inch all around) and then using a diamond blade saw to remove it. That would give me the lower piece of what you have. I could then find someone to weld on a length of stove pipe and those screw tabs. Would not be as nice as what you have but I don't have access to someone to fabricate it for me. I sent your photo to the local sheet metal shop asking for a quote on making what your son did. I'll bet it will be very expensive though. I suppose it could all be made out of 16 gauge instead of the 1/4" which would make it less expensive. Too bad Lopi doesn't make one of these for their older stoves.
> 
> What is a "10 steel tube cut off"? Do you mean a 10 inch diameter steel tube? That sounds like it would work but I didn't know they made tubes that wide.


 The cast iron could work but you probably won't have much luck welding it.

       Yes ,10 inch diameter  steel tube. The cut off is whats left over after the fabricator cuts his piece out of the length of tube steel. I have a steel supply house near me that puts all the cut offs for sale. It great when you only need small pieces otherwise you have to buy the whole 22 foot of steel tube


----------



## FromHollywood

Can someone help me please? My question involves new and old stoves so I'm putting the posting on this section of the forum hoping someone who has a modern insert can do a measurement for me.

On a modern insert, there is a round raised collar that accepts the stove pipe. I have an older insert (Lopi Model X) without one of those round raised collars so I'm hoping to buy a short piece of standard 8" wide Schedule 10 Stainless Steel 316L pipe which is exactly 8.329" (inner diameter), 8.625" (outer diameter) and weld that onto the top of my older insert. I'm concerned that the inner diameter of this standard pipe size might be too big for standard 8" stove pipe.

Will 8.329" (inner diameter) be correct for accepting 8" stove pipe? What exactly are the inner and outer dimensions of an 8" collar on a newer stove?

Here is a picture of a modern stove and a photo of my insert. I'll have to cut a groove out of whatever I weld on for the damper rod.







Thanks very much for any assistance you can provide.


----------



## David Tackett

I had the same problem on an older stove. I just had a guy weld a collar on it for me.


----------



## redrig

Robertk, did you use an appliance adapter ? or did you just run the liner over the top of your flue ?


----------



## robertk

redrig said:


> Robertk, did you use an appliance adapter ? or did you just run the liner over the top of your flue ?


 Look at the top most piece  in my photo. The 6" stainless flue fits inside of the top ring. I did it that way so if anything drops down out of the flue it will fall into the fire box. When I run a brush down from the top of the stainless liner when cleaning,I end up with a small pile of creosote in the fire box.

I hope this answers your question


----------



## dieselscout80

Robert, is your stainless flue just setting in there or did you screw it to the adapter your son built?


----------



## redrig

robertk said:


> Look at the top most piece in my photo. The 6" stainless flue fits inside of the top ring. I did it that way so if anything drops down out of the flue it will fall into the fire box. When I run a brush down from the top of the stainless liner when cleaning,I end up with a small pile of creosote in the fire box.
> 
> I hope this answers your question


 
Gotcha, thanks for the explanation.

It sounds like then you are not using the appliance adapter and your top most ring is probably in the neighborhood of 6.25 ID to allow the stainless liner to fit inside of it.


----------



## robertk

redrig said:


> Gotcha, thanks for the explanation.
> 
> It sounds like then you are not using the appliance adapter and your top most ring is probably in the neighborhood of 6.25 ID to allow the stainless liner to fit inside of it.


 I'm not sure what the appliance adapter is.
    The reasons I had to make my own adapter was lack of room above the stove and the angle which the stainless liner connected to the top of the stove. I think the diameter of the top piece is 6.75 inches to allow for the outside diameter of the flue and the angle which it entered the stove adapter. I'll try and take a photo of it tonight (before the Giants game) if no one has a fire lit when I get home.


----------



## redrig

robertk said:


> I'm not sure what the appliance adapter is.
> The reasons I had to make my own adapter was lack of room above the stove and the angle which the stainless liner connected to the top of the stove. I think the diameter of the top piece is 6.75 inches to allow for the outside diameter of the flue and the angle which it entered the stove adapter. I'll try and take a photo of it tonight (before the Giants game) if no one has a fire lit when I get home.


 





^^^^ That is the appliance connector thing I was referring to. It comes with most liner kits and new stoves connect up with these, that is how you make the connection from liner to stove.

I just didnt know if you used one to connect up to your homemade adapter or not. But is sounds like you did not use one , you went straight from liner to your homemade adapter.

no need to take any additional pics, just curious on how you made your connection.

 I apprecaiate your help.


----------



## FromHollywood

Anybody know where I could find a simple 8" exhaust collar that I could have welded onto my insert? I was planning on building a fancier thing but I think just a simple round collar would be fine. I'd like it to be thick metal like the stove itself.

I looked at buying a short length of 8" round stainless pipe. There is a place called OnlineMetals but their 8" pipe has an inner diameter of 8.329" which, I think, is too big for standard 8" stove pipe.


----------



## FromHollywood

redrig said:


> Thanks for the clarification RobertK, that is great work you and your son did. I am basically doing the exact thing except mine will be square at the bottom.
> 
> I do not have access to a roller to make one like that but today I found a solution online, I found a metal mart that sells all types of pipe by the inch, and they have one that should work perfect.


 

Redrig,  Can you share the name of the metal mart where you found the pipe by the inch?   I found a place called OnlineMetals but their 8" stainless pipe has an inner diameter of 8.329" which is too large for 8" stove pipe.


----------



## Woody Stover

Just got this for my buck 91.
http://www.buckstove.com/partsstore/product.php?productid=264&cat=137&page=1


----------



## Woody Stover

I took a couple of measurements on the Buck. Flue outlet is right at 8" across. The L-bolts should be able to grab anything 1.75" or less below the top of the opening.
I have flex at the bottom of the rigid liner. I got a 30* elbow, and that will go into the flue collar. The elbow doesn't fit all the way down to the ledge on the inside of the collar, but it extends a decent amount past the screw holes in the collar...


----------



## FromHollywood

Woody Stover said:


> I took a couple of measurements on the Buck. Flue outlet is right at 8" across. The L-bolts should be able to grab anything 1.75" or less below the top of the opening.
> I have flex at the bottom of the rigid liner. I got a 30* elbow, and that will go into the flue collar. The elbow doesn't fit all the way down to the ledge on the inside of the collar, but it extends a decent amount past the screw holes in the collar...


 

Woody, This is EXACTLY what I've been hoping to find. Thank you so much for posting this.  The only issue with it is that the Lopi has a draft rod (see my first photo) so I'd have to get someone to cut a notch out of this.   But, thats probably cheaper than having the entire thing fabricated from scratch.   Thanks!


----------



## Woody Stover

FromHollywood said:


> The only issue with it is that the Lopi has a draft rod (see my first photo) so I'd have to get someone to cut a notch out of this. But, thats probably cheaper than having the entire thing fabricated from scratch.


Oh yeah, I forgot about the rod...   Hopefully you can find a way to make it work.


----------



## redrig

here is the metal place I was referring to above, they have some that are pretty thick walled tubing and sell it by the inch.

there is an 8 and 8.25 ID on this page below that may work for you. at least gets you closer than 8.4 ID

http://www.speedymetals.com/s-204-round-tube.aspx?pagenum=11

What do you need to fabricate ? cant you just take the pipe and weld to the top of your insert ?
with the notch taken out of course.


----------



## FromHollywood

Woody Stover said:


> Oh yeah, I forgot about the rod...  Hopefully you can find a way to make it work.


 
Woody, It looks like that Buck collar has a wider diameter at the bottom than at the top. The hole on the top of my insert is exactly 8" diameter. What is the inner diameter of the bottom of that Buck collar? I'm hoping the bottom is a little wider so it will fully sit on-top of the stove itself and then taper down to 8" inner diameter to accept the stove pipe.


----------



## redrig

Hollywood,

I saw this on ebay, might work for you. if it was 6" I would have bought it long ago.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fireplace-C..._Fireplaces&hash=item416a82943d#ht_120wt_1172

Its just a matter of borrowing a grinder from Flanders and making the notch, and you should be all set


----------



## FromHollywood

redrig said:


> here is the metal place I was referring to above, they have some that are pretty thick walled tubing and sell it by the inch.
> 
> there is an 8 and 8.25 ID on this page below that may work for you. at least gets you closer than 8.4 ID
> 
> http://www.speedymetals.com/s-204-round-tube.aspx?pagenum=11
> 
> What do you need to fabricate ? cant you just take the pipe and weld to the top of your insert ?
> with the notch taken out of course.


 

Redrig, Are you sure that pipe from Speedy is correct for wood stove heat?  I was told by a stove manufacturer that the metal needs to be 304 or 316 but I'm not sure exactly what those designations mean----maybe he was just talking about the liner.   Apparently, some metals warp over time with the high heat.

What I meant by fabricate is to have someone take a flat piece of metal and roll it to that round shape----like the previous poster did who made that fancy attachment for his insert. I don't have the resources to do that. So, buying a short piece of 8" pipe sounds like the way to go.


----------



## Woody Stover

FromHollywood said:


> Woody, It looks like that Buck collar has a wider diameter at the bottom than at the top. The hole on the top of my insert is exactly 8" diameter. What is the inner diameter of the bottom of that Buck collar? I'm hoping the bottom is a little wider so it will fully sit on-top of the stove itself and then taper down to 8" inner diameter to accept the stove pipe.


Yeah, the outlet in the Buck 91 is also exactly 8". As you can see in the pic in my first post, there's a step-down on the bottom of the collar where the gasket sits. The OD of the stepped-down portion is 7-7/8" so that it drops into the outlet slightly, with a little room for movement side to side. The wider part above the step-down is 8-5/8" so it sits on top of the outlet and the gasket is compressed to the top of the stove.

Actually, the top of the collar tapers _narrower_ on the inside as you go down. It is 8-1/8" at the top to accept the pipe, but tapers smaller to provide a tighter gap between the collar and the pipe. The elbow that will go into the collar on my install is crimped so it will drop in further than a plain-end pipe would. As I said earlier, the elbow doesn't drop all the way down to the shelf inside the collar but it goes in far enough to get below the screw holes by a decent amount. You can see the marks that the crimped elbow left when I dry-fitted it.


----------



## redrig

FromHollywood said:


> Redrig, Are you sure that pipe from Speedy is correct for wood stove heat? I was told by a stove manufacturer that the metal needs to be 304 or 316 but I'm not sure exactly what those designations mean----maybe he was just talking about the liner. Apparently, some metals warp over time with the high heat.
> 
> What I meant by fabricate is to have someone take a flat piece of metal and roll it to that round shape----like the previous poster did who made that fancy attachment for his insert. I don't have the resources to do that. So, buying a short piece of 8" pipe sounds like the way to go.


 

well that link I sent was for steel products, they have it in other types of metals, but I would assume 1/4 steel will work considering that is what your stove is made of probably, that should be more than enough.

I asked the same question in another thread and Begreen stated the 24 gauge is more than sufficient.

the 316 SS recommendation is probably for your liner.

did you check out that Ebay link ?


----------



## FromHollywood

redrig said:


> well that link I sent was for steel products, they have it in other types of metals, but I would assume 1/4 steel will work considering that is what your stove is made of probably, that should be more than enough.
> 
> I asked the same question in another thread and Begreen stated the 24 gauge is more than sufficient.
> 
> the 316 SS recommendation is probably for your liner.
> 
> did you check out that Ebay link ?


 
I just checked your ebay link.   That looks like it would work too though I'm not sure how much I'd have to cut out because of that draft rod.  Too bad that Lopi didn't put that rod lower down so it wouldn't interfere with attaching anything.   What really surprises me is that Lopi doesn't seem to have any adapter for their older inserts.   Maybe they do but the dealers I've talked to don't know of any.   I talked to one technical person at Lopi but he didn't know of anything either.  

I think either the Buck product that Woody Stover has or just a short piece of iron pipe that has an inner diameter around 8-1/4" is the best way to go. 

I will post a photo of what I end up with.   Thanks


----------



## Woody Stover

FromHollywood said:


> short piece of iron pipe that has an inner diameter around 8-1/4"


That's gonna leave a big gap to take care of, and a big air leak if whatever you fill the gap with falls out...


----------



## FromHollywood

Woody Stover said:


> That's gonna leave a big gap to take care of, and a big air leak if whatever you fill the gap with falls out...


 
Woody, Thanks for taking those measurements for me of your Buck attachment. Your inner diameter is 8-1/8" where the stove pipe goes into. I haven't seen a piece of pipe that has exactly that inner diameter. Maybe it's best to go with that Buck adapter that you have since it was made for attaching to stove piping. If those bolts work on my Lopi insert, then I don't have to worry about hiring someone to weld anything. Based on what you said, it looks like those bolts will attach to my insert. I have 1-1/2" lip below the 8" opening on my insert (see my earlier photo) and you said that the bolts would grab anything less than 1.75" so they should work. I'm going to order it tomorrow. Thanks for your help Woody and Redrig.


----------



## Woody Stover

I wonder if it is possible to drill a hole through the cast iron for the rod? Not sure if you can drill that stuff without cracking it or some other problem...
You would naturally want a hole only big enough to allow the rod to move freely but small enough to minimize air intake into the flue...

Also, what's that in your second pic, post #39?


----------



## Woody Stover

FromHollywood said:


> Your inner diameter is 8-1/8" where the stove pipe goes into. I haven't seen a piece of pipe that has exactly that inner diameter.


Yeah, but as I mentioned, it's only 8-1/8 at the top, and it tapers smaller as you go down i.e. the further you push the pipe into the collar, the tighter the fit gets.


----------



## David Tackett

I just bought a collar like this and welded it on.  

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wood-Stove-...177&pid=100015&prg=1006&rk=1&sd=200847211191&


----------



## scott44107401

redrig said:


> Robertk, did you use an appliance adapter ? or did you just run the liner over the top of your flue ?


does anyone know of a retangular adapter? Its on an old buck stove that measures 3 1/2 wide  x 14 long. trying to connect flue to stove..


----------

