# Huskee 22 /general splitter tips?



## osagebow (Dec 14, 2012)

Just towed home one from TSC, was $1099.

Anyways, thought y'all could share tips for this model in particular and splitters in general, and answer a few particular Q's

-Have run one once, a mtd gold 27, I think, and the owner requested to lube the beam periodically with motor oil. Is this necessary, and if so would veg oil work?

-came filled with hydro, should I still do a "bleed"?

-will initial use require "topping off" hydro fluid?

-is running at less than full throttle a good idea with smaller stuff?

- Still need to get gas and find my old turner dairy milk crate before i get started and post pics, hopefully Sunday. Gotta see a guy in a red suit and hit the staff xmas party tomorrow.
Thanks in advance.


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## TreePointer (Dec 14, 2012)

I have never lubed the beam on my Huskee 35-ton. The rest is all RTFM, LOL!

Check hydraulic fluid reservoir dipstick to ensure TSC added enough fluid. If not, stop byTSC and they should give you enough (free) to get it into proper operating range.

Follow procedure in manual for initial purging of air from hydraulic system. Do this after transporting to your destination.

Topping off shouldn't be necessary. Check fluid level before each use. Add fluid if needed.

On these new engines, always run at full throttle to ensure proper lubrication and cooling.

Change engine oil and hydraulic filter as specified in manual.

I don't change hydraulic fluid unless it's dirty or cloudy (moisture).


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## triptester (Dec 15, 2012)

Do not use oil or grease on the beam , it will collect dirt and grime increasing wear. Do not overfill the hydraulic tank it needs room for fluid expansion.


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## bogydave (Dec 15, 2012)

Warm it up then run at full throttle or just a hair below.

Never lubed the beam, will collect dirt/dust , get sticky  & wear faster. Just keep it clean

Watch the finger pinching  folding tongue stand.

Have fun.


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## swagler85 (Dec 15, 2012)

I was told to change oil after first few hours of use.  A note o that is there is two places to drain oil on that engine. I spent the first ten minutes pissed off cause I couldn't get the plug out. Then realized there is another one under the mounting plate. Quite a aha moment.


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## MasterMech (Dec 15, 2012)

osagebow said:


> -Have run one once, a mtd gold 27, I think, and the owner requested to lube the beam periodically with motor oil. Is this necessary, and if so would veg oil work?


 
These beams are a bit different than mine but wiping the shiny metal surfaces down with an oil soaked rag after using, (just to prevent rust, more of an aesthetic thing than anything.) Is all that I do.  I wouldn't grease that beam either.  That's asking for a mess.



osagebow said:


> -came filled with hydro, should I still do a "bleed"?


 
Remove the spark plug wire and bungee the lever forward.  Then pull the engine over until the wedge moves forward 2-4 inches or so.  This will ensure the pump has enough hydro fluid in it to start-up without damage.  The remove your bungee, re-install the plug wire, start the engine and run the wedge 2-3 full cycles until there is no jerking. (all air is purged from the cylinder/lines)



osagebow said:


> -will initial use require "topping off" hydro fluid?


 
It should be filled to the mfg's specs.  Check it, make sure there is _at least_ 1-2" of room in the reservoir for expansion as the fluid warms up.  After your initial run, the level will drop slightly but so long as your fluid level stays in spec, your ok as it should not use any more.



osagebow said:


> -is running at less than full throttle a good idea with smaller stuff?


 
I back my machine off a bit when working by myself to save fuel as I do not need the extra speed.  That engine will run comfortably at full speed but anything over 2800 rpm will provide adequate cooling so long as it's not under constant heavy load.  (Which doesn't happen on log splitters.)



TreePointer said:


> Change engine oil and hydraulic filter as specified in manual.


 
This is important.  Especially that first engine oil change @ 5 hours or so.  Do that oil change with the engine warm.



TreePointer said:


> I don't change hydraulic fluid unless it's dirty or cloudy (moisture).


 
Or discolored (usually means it has gotten very hot) or is exceptionally old (Over 10 years).


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## smokinj (Dec 15, 2012)

No rocket here. Big thing keep the oil changes up on the motor. Re-place the hydro filter once a season and top off the hydro fluid.


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## osagebow (Dec 15, 2012)

thanks all for the replies. I thought oiling the beam was kinda counter productive.  Its a tad low after bleeding. Ok to add a bit of dextron 2 tranny fluid to existing hydro fluid I assume? have have some on hand.


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## MasterMech (Dec 15, 2012)

osagebow said:


> dextron 2 tranny fluid


 
lol, that stuff is still around?, hell the Dexron III spec is long dead.... 

I'd want to use whatever they filled it with rather than mixing fluids but I don't think the Dex2 will hurt anything.


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## osagebow (Dec 15, 2012)

MasterMech said:


> lol, that stuff is still around?, hell the Dexron III spec is long dead....
> 
> I'd want to use whatever they filled it with rather than mixing fluids but I don't think the Dex2 will hurt anything.


Hahaha...in the s10 from god knows when. Going to tsc, hit Santa earlier than expected.


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## Village Idiot (Dec 15, 2012)

I would also take a few minutes and tighten up all hose clamps and make sure all the engine mounting bolts are tight.

When first running mine I thought I had a bum engine. It split fine, but it didn't sound right. I tightened all the mounting bolts (found a couple that were slightly lose) the odd sounds were gone. If I notice the bolts loosening up in the future, I will use some loctite.

A couple of weeks ago I developed a drip on the return hose. Tightening up the hose clamp fixed that issue. Did the rest for good measure.


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## TreePointer (Dec 15, 2012)

Village Idiot said:


> I would also take a few minutes and tighten up all hose clamps and make sure all the engine mounting bolts are tight....


 
Good tip on ensuring those hose clamps aren't too loose. I've seen more than a few posts regarding loose hose clamps on these Huskees. The wildcard with Huskee splitters is the person who assembles them at TSC.


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## thetooth (Dec 15, 2012)

I had a return hose blow off during operation . Speeco stood behind their product and reimbursed me for the lost hydro fluid . I did replace the hose clamp with a heavier duty one from work . I have been very pleased with my splitter it has split everything I have thrown at it .


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## jeff_t (Dec 15, 2012)

Village Idiot said:


> I would also take a few minutes and tighten up all hose clamps and make sure all the engine mounting bolts are tight.
> 
> When first running mine I thought I had a bum engine. It split fine, but it didn't sound right. I tightened all the mounting bolts (found a couple that were slightly lose) the odd sounds were gone. If I notice the bolts loosening up in the future, I will use some loctite.
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I developed a drip on the return hose. Tightening up the hose clamp fixed that issue. Did the rest for good measure.



Yep. Make sure all the bolts are tight. After you run it a bit, check them all again.

The rocket scientist that put mine together didn't bother to put a hose barb on the return, just jammed the hose on the nipple welded to the tank and clamped it.

Don't tow any more than you have to. Mine gets towed behind my atv from the garage to the wood pile, and back. If I need to take it anywhere else, it gets trailered.


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## billb3 (Dec 15, 2012)

I wouldn't mix Dextron with hyd oil, but you could use either one by itself.


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## Backwoods Savage (Dec 15, 2012)

osagebow said:


> Just towed home one from TSC, was $1099.
> 
> Anyways, thought y'all could share tips for this model in particular and splitters in general, and answer a few particular Q's
> 
> ...


 
Congratulations on the new splitter. Others have given some good advice so I'll just touch a little. As for the oil/grease thing, when I am done splitting, I then put the splitter into horizontal position for storing. I also then put some oil on the beam and run the ram through a cycle to spread the oil. Then the splitter is ready for storage. I do not put oil on the beam during the splitting and of course one should not put grease on the beam. In fact, the manual states to put oil on the beam and not grease.

I do not run ours at full throttle unless it is some tough stuff. Normally about 3/4 throttle.

Milk crate is perfect height for splitting.

Have some fun now.


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## osagebow (Dec 15, 2012)

Good tips all, thanks. One hose clamp was kinda loose - probably would have failed. Did the "Tighten up" all around and split about 20 slightly punky red oak rounds for my neighbor's smoke dragon, worked great.

_*A word about TSC....*_
The night we bought it, the newer salesperson incorrectly stated a cheaper returned 22 ton unit was sold "as is" with no warrantly whatsoever. So I did not get that unit

Same guy flagged me down when i went back for the manual I forgot to ask for, and  hydro fluid ( a free large jug was given to me) and made sure I was reimbursed the $105 difference from his mistake. I was VERY impressed, so i spent it all in the store.  Definitely a TSC fan now.

This is my 13 year old neighbor kid Nick - 170 lb. ox with size 14 shoes. He's gonna be quite the lumberjack. He reminded me to take a picture for "logbook or whatever that site is...."


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## osagebow (Dec 15, 2012)

jeff_t said:


> Don't tow any more than you have to. Mine gets towed behind my atv from the garage to the wood pile, and back. If I need to take it anywhere else, it gets trailered.


 

Indeed...40 mph is about all I could stand towing it back . It was all over the place.


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## WellSeasoned (Dec 15, 2012)

My bolt and cotter pin that holds up the front support leg broke today while in transit. Other than that, I love my huskee. Ran 11 cords through it over the past 3 months. Its a great work horse! You'll love it!


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## Beer Belly (Dec 16, 2012)

Gotta remember, the axle is part of the tank.....towing over rough terrain may crack the tank/axle. When I got mine, one of the wheels was falling off....ended up being a bearing issue (towed 20+ miles home this way not knowing)....also a hose leaked.....throttle linkage fell apart twice (Red lever throttle control), gave up on fixing it and bypassed it......this weekend, Motor bolts were loose. Great Splitter for the $$$, no major problems


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## aussiedog3 (Dec 16, 2012)

I have the same splitter, 2 years now no troubles, just be sure to check engine mounting bolts, mine have jiggled loose a couple of times.
Keep the oil changed, I think the manual suggests every 5 hours of use or so.  Easy to do and only takes about a half a quart of oil anyway!
I have yet to find a piece of wood that this thing won't split or just slice its way through.
You are gonna love it.  Enjoy.


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## muncybob (Dec 17, 2012)

That was cool of the guy at TSC!! That pic reminded me of what my splitter use to look like...clean. I check all the places that could possibly vibrate loose at every oil change. The only part that failed on me was one of the pins that hold the ram in place. Apparently fell off and the complete ram assembly fell during my 1st vertical splitting session and just missed a serious hand injury...scared the crap outta me. This is the reason I check everything to be tight at oil changes.  I love this splitter though, has done everything I have asked of it and except in really cold weather it has been easy to start too.


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## Bocefus78 (Dec 17, 2012)

Congrats! I only have 2 tips...
First and foremost, go back to the TSC and get a $25 crank up wheel style trailer jack. Remove the finger lopper (AKA the folding leg) and immediately trash it. You can thank me later. This actually makes me want to start a thread on who has cut theirself from this poor design.
Second, go get a spring that will fit over the pin for changing horizontal/vertical mode. That little bugger rattles like all he will without one. I stole this idea from the MTD splitters.


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## TreePointer (Dec 17, 2012)

SpeeCo (makers of Huskee) changed their design on the 22-ton model by adding a loop handle on the tow arm above the leg because of the "lopper leg" safety issue .


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## MnDave (Dec 17, 2012)

Here's a little splitter trick I picked up from a neighbor.
Lets say you are splitty something stringy like elm.
That splitter blade will stop an inch or so away from the end plate.
So if you get a real stringy piece sometimes it won't completely split because the last few inches of fiber stay connected.

Don't haul it off the beam and try to rip it apart by hand (unless your wife likes watching you play He-man).

What I do is back the blade away from the end plate with the piece still stuck to the blade. Back it far enough so you can set a different split against the endplate. Now go forward till the blade is all the way through.

MnDave


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## MnDave (Dec 17, 2012)

Another thing I do that makes manuevering the splitter with an ATV or UTV real easy is put a hitch ball on the front of the machine.

MnDave


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## osagebow (Dec 17, 2012)

All Good ideas!

I also discovered not splitting not quite all the way through is good on redoak, and you look cool throwing the whole log in the truck where it splits into 4 pieces as it hits, or just rip a bit when stacking. Had a few handy 2-3 and 4 "packs" going.


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## MnDave (Dec 17, 2012)

Here's another little splitter trick that I am sure many know but will put out there anyways.

On rounds that are around 7 to 9 inches in diameter that you want to make 4 splits from you can reduce the number of cycles from 3 to 2.

After the first cycle just keep the splits on the beam and rotate them 90 degrees.

I used to split smaller beause I wanted it to dry better. Now I plan on cutting a fews years ahead and not splitting so small (burns too fast).

Just realized that this is similar to osagebows post above.

MnDave


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## MasterMech (Dec 18, 2012)

osagebow said:


> All Good ideas!
> 
> I also discovered not splitting not quite all the way through is good on redoak, and you look cool throwing the whole log in the truck where it splits into 4 pieces as it hits, or just rip a bit when stacking. Had a few handy 2-3 and 4 "packs" going.


 
The right log and you can do a sixxer.


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## Backwoods Savage (Dec 18, 2012)

osagebow said:


> All Good ideas!
> 
> I also discovered not splitting not quite all the way through is good on redoak, and you look cool throwing the whole log in the truck where it splits into 4 pieces as it hits, or just rip a bit when stacking. Had a few handy 2-3 and 4 "packs" going.


 
That reminds me of a neighbor who asked if I could split some wood for him. He didn't have much and it was all red oak. Neither he nor his wife had ever seen a hydraulic splitter and the rounds weren't too big so I did one of those, "Hold my beer," things and went to splitting. Two strikes and not very far into the rounds and I threw them 4 splits. I did 4 really fast and both were standing there with their eyes and mouths wide open. They never dreamed it could be that fast or even that easy. I got a nice chuckle out of it.


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## 120inna55 (Jan 5, 2013)

I just got this splitter. I haven't put fuel in it yet. The only thing I've done so far is put the handle on. (For some reason, TSC doesn't install that, but rather send you home with it in a bag.) Anyways...after installing it with the engine obviously off, pulling the handle down and releasing it, it returns to neutral position as expected. However, if I push the handle _up_, it "sticks" in that position. _* Is this normal?*_ Again, I haven't fueled it up, so this behavior is exhibited while it's off. I've used hydraulic splitters many times, but I've never owned one, so this thread has been quite helpful, but I don't remember the handle "sticking" in the up position before.


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## Beer Belly (Jan 6, 2013)

When I pull mine back, after the ram returns, it snaps back to the middle position automatically....never tried it while not running


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## swagler85 (Jan 6, 2013)

120inna55 said:


> I just got this splitter. I haven't put fuel in it yet. The only thing I've done so far is put the handle on. (For some reason, TSC doesn't install that, but rather send you home with it in a bag.) Anyways...after installing it with the engine obviously off, pulling the handle down and releasing it, it returns to neutral position as expected. However, if I push the handle _up_, it "sticks" in that position. _* Is this normal?*_ Again, I haven't fueled it up, so this behavior is exhibited while it's off. I've used hydraulic splitters many times, but I've never owned one, so this thread has been quite helpful, but I don't remember the handle "sticking" in the up position before.


Yes normal for the handle to stick in the up position. That is the auto return, allows the ram to retract all the way while you grab the next log to split. 

TSC put everything together on mine, filled with fuel and hydro oil as well. Guy even mentioned how he learned a while ago to attached the hoses in the vertical position. Otherwise the hoses curl up and end up in the way when you switch to vertical splitting


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## 120inna55 (Jan 6, 2013)

swagler85 said:


> Yes normal for the handle to stick in the up position. That is the auto return, allows the ram to retract all the way while you grab the next log to split...


So _that's_ auto return. I'm just vaguely recalling an old splitter I used to use for the annual hog killin's. In the vertical position, you'd push the lever down to split the log, then simply let go, and the ram would retract automatically. The only time you would push the lever upward would be to bring the ram up faster.

Another question (sorry to hijack, but props to the OP for starting the general questions thread specific to the Huskee): I understand I may need to add a little hydraulic oil after a few cycles. Currently it's reading at the upper end of the "OK" range on the dipstick. The manual calls for universal AW 32 or 46, or transmission fluid. The guy at TSC said they just used "regular hydraulic oil". I have some hydraulic oil from Walmart, "Super Tech R&O ANTI-WEAR HYDRAULIC OIL." It claims to be for "general purpose" with applications including "log splitters." However, I can't find "AW 32 or 46" anywhere on the container.


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## Vincent (Jan 6, 2013)

120inna55 said:


> So _that's_ auto return. I'm just vaguely recalling an old splitter I used to use for the annual hog killin's. In the vertical position, you'd push the lever down to split the log, then simply let go, and the ram would retract automatically. The only time you would push the lever upward would be to bring the ram up faster.
> 
> Another question (sorry to hijack, but props to the OP for starting the general questions thread specific to the Huskee): I understand I may need to add a little hydraulic oil after a few cycles. Currently it's reading at the upper end of the "OK" range on the dipstick. The manual calls for universal AW 32 or 46, or transmission fluid. The guy at TSC said they just used "regular hydraulic oil". I have some hydraulic oil from Walmart, "Super Tech R&O ANTI-WEAR HYDRAULIC OIL." It claims to be for "general purpose" with applications including "log splitters." However, I can't find "AW 32 or 46" anywhere on the container.


I think Napa sells the AW32 and AW46.


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## MasterMech (Jan 6, 2013)

120inna55 said:


> The manual calls for universal AW 32 or 46, or transmission fluid. The guy at TSC said they just used "regular hydraulic oil". I have some hydraulic oil from Walmart, "Super Tech R&O ANTI-WEAR HYDRAULIC OIL." It claims to be for "general purpose" with applications including "log splitters." However, I can't find "AW 32 or 46" anywhere on the container.


 
AW 32 = Anti-Wear 32, same for 46.  Dexron III ATF or Universal Tractor Transmission Oil will work just as well.  Your Super Tech will be fine as well.


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## Richprint29 (Jan 6, 2013)

Good luck with the new splitter. I run a Troy Built 27 ton. I'm happy with it so far. When I brought it home I started with all the nasty knotted Y shaped stuff that had been tossed aside from recent seasons. It ate through all of it. Have fun


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## osagebow (Jan 6, 2013)

120inna55 said:


> So _that's_ auto return. I'm just vaguely recalling an old splitter_* I used to use for the annual hog killin's*_. In the vertical position, you'd push the lever down to split the log, then simply let go, and the ram would retract automatically. The only time you would push the lever upward would be to bring the ram up faster.
> 
> Another question (sorry to hijack, but props to the OP for starting the general questions thread specific to the Huskee): I understand I may need to add a little hydraulic oil after a few cycles. Currently it's reading at the upper end of the "OK" range on the dipstick. The manual calls for universal AW 32 or 46, or transmission fluid. The guy at TSC said they just used "regular hydraulic oil". I have some hydraulic oil from Walmart, "Super Tech R&O ANTI-WEAR HYDRAULIC OIL." It claims to be for "general purpose" with applications including "log splitters." However, I can't find "AW 32 or 46" anywhere on the container.


 

Thanks for the props, no HJack worries - I keep learnin' more on here, that's what it's all about.

But I gotta ask...when you kill a hog with a splitter, I assume you go vertical?  

Actually getting some scrapple from my students this week - lotsa hogs around here have found their last acorn.


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## 120inna55 (Jan 6, 2013)

osagebow said:


> ...But I gotta ask...when you kill a hog with a splitter, I assume you go vertical? ...


 
Heheh...you have _no_ idea.  

For those who are interested here is a photo documentary of one of our hog killin's.  The images can get a bit graphic.  I recommend clicking on the first picture and reading the accompanying explanation.  Then use your right arrow (or just click the image) to take you to the next image with explanation, and so on. The result is a pretty good step-by-step explanation of what's involved. This is a public album, so you don't need to have a Facebook account to view it. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.102289706448022.4965.100000009807887&type=1&l=42917891be

By the way, I gassed up the splitter today and it fired right up and works fine.  There was the expected initial choppiness on the first engage, but the following cycles were smooth, so I'm confident the air is out of the lines.  I'm still in the operating range as far as hydraulic fluid level.


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## DodgyNomad (Jan 7, 2013)

Great splitters.  I warm mine up a for a few minutes.  When breaking them in, change the idle speed regularly, rings seat upon decelleration.  

I also recommend getting a work table attachment.  They are great backsavers and really speed up larger logs.


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## Village Idiot (Jan 8, 2013)

DodgyNomad said:


> I also recommend getting a work table attachment. They are great backsavers and really speed up larger logs.


+1 on the work table. My father bought me the one that 33flame sells on eBay. This past Friday I installed it and split 2 cords of wood I have been putting off doing hoping I would get a table for Christmas. It was so nice to not have to bend over all the time. (I do do some vertical splitting too for the really big stuff. My technique needs refining though since I find sitting and bending over does a tune on my back. I keep trying different height seats, but haven't found the perfect one yet.

BTW, the 33flame table is nice because once installed, it can be easily removed/installed without tools. A real plus when switching between horizontal/vertical and when transporting the splitter.


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## 120inna55 (Jan 1, 2014)

Does anyone know the oil drain plug size on the B&S 675E Series motor that came with this splitter?  I'm looking to get one of these to make oil changes less messy, but I don't know which one to get.  I think it would be narrowed down to the 1/4" or the 3/8".


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## Ram 1500 with an axe... (Jan 1, 2014)

I use a tarp underneath the splitting area, I am splitting on a rock driveway so this is great for easy cleanup and collecting scraps, also I had a few leaks of oil my first few times, was easy to locate them and actually know that they were going on.... Other then than it works great, oh yeah keep that cap to the hydraulic tank tight so no water can trickle in, good luck with it and great choice....


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## Firewood Bandit (Jan 3, 2014)

Take a couple rounds and place them to the left of the end of the beam.  You now have a makeshift log table to set big pieces you've split.  Also park the splitter extremely close to where you are going to stack the wood to avoid wasted motion and handling twice.

Get the log table for it  too.


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## Village Idiot (Jan 3, 2014)

120inna55 said:


> Does anyone know the oil drain plug size on the B&S 675E Series motor that came with this splitter?  I'm looking to get one of these to make oil changes less messy, but I don't know which one to get.  I think it would be narrowed down to the 1/4" or the 3/8".



I can't tell you what the drain plug size is, but I would like to put a plug (no pun intended) in for a LiquiVac. Yes is costs twice as much as a Drainzit, but I use mine on my splitter, lawn mower, generator, and for draining other non-gasoline automotive fluids. I am way ahead in cost savings. Plus, it is really handy when the boy comes and says "I put too much oil in the mower. What do I do now?" (Hard to get mad when you realize he actually remembered to check the oil and trying to do the right thing.) It was super easy to just suck out the extra amount and not spill a drop.


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## TreePointer (Jan 3, 2014)

I also use a LiquiVac.  A nice product.


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## Hank195 (Jan 5, 2014)

That Drainzit line looks like it would work well on the Huskee splitter.  My splitter is just about due for its first oil change and this would make the job much neater.  I unscrewed the drain plug (Briggs 675 engine) enough to measure it without dumping the oil - seems to be about .660 OD which would make it 3/8 NPT.  The LiquiVac also looks interesting but I think I will try the drain line since it will be permanently attached to the splitter, one less thing that I have to find when I need it (poor organizational skills


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