# The B-vent No No



## Val (Jun 1, 2012)

I wanted to ask this just because I really wonder.....if anyone has ever done personally or seen 3" B-vent used in a pellet stove application? What is the effect of this? I know that the inside of a B-vent is aluminum, and I wonder if it must corrode very fast, that is why it is not allowed for pellet stove piping. It is funny that when I go to Home depot I always see pellet stove pipe dumped in the B-vent section, as if people switch them out for price reasons. Obviously, the interlock system is different so you can't really interchange pipe sections. But I always wonder if people would use B-vent for an detached outside workshop application. Or use B-vent caps (secure with screws). Or use B-vent to extend exterior stove piping? I use the right pipes because I am not cheap with tools/machinery-really believe me on this- I spend $$$ on certain things.
But I am used to seeing poor people do things that the best one can hope for is just not being completely unsafe. Hint: no speeches about house insurance...many people live in code-violated, uninsurable homes or mobiles that they buy with cash or private mortgage.


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## DirtyDave (Jun 1, 2012)

B vent is not temp rated as high and yes the aluminum corrodes at a faster rate or just plain melts if over heated.


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## kinsmanstoves (Jun 1, 2012)

read the owners manual and do it right the first time.  

Eric


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## AbetterChimneynm (Jun 1, 2012)

I have seen b vent used many times and it always has the same result the pipe melts and almost burns someones house down......If b vent was ment to be used the owners manuel would suggest using it.......Please don't make the mistake of using this pipe for a pellet stove.


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## AbetterChimneynm (Jun 1, 2012)

Also if price is a problem i do not know if your area has a store like us but we have alot of used pipe we sell at a discount for people that can not afford new!


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## smwilliamson (Jun 2, 2012)

Which is why Home Depot is generally a bad idea for just about anything.


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## kinsmanstoves (Jun 2, 2012)

When a big box store sells a pellet stove or pipe they need to include two magnets with the local fire department's phone numbers.  One for you and one for your closest neighbor.

Eric


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## smwilliamson (Jun 2, 2012)

kinsmanstoves said:


> When a big box store sells a pellet stove or pipe they need to include two magnets with the local fire department's phone numbers. One for you and one for your closest neighbor.
> 
> Eric


and while your at it, take one of those magnets and see if it clings to the stainless pipe your bought, chances are it will.


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## Val (Jun 2, 2012)

AbetterChimneynm said:


> I have seen b vent used many times and it always has the same result the pipe melts and almost burns someones house down......If b vent was ment to be used the owners manuel would suggest using it.......Please don't make the mistake of using this pipe for a pellet stove.


Thank you for telling me about this. I didnt realize B-vent aluminum inside could melt. Probably because I always thought gas appliances ran hotter than a wood pellet stove. I thought it was a moisture/ corrosion factor. Also- back to the idea of using HVAC tape on the outside of a stove joint, I wonder if you have to buy better grade tape. I saw the better stuff rated at 325 degrees F. That must be ok for the joint outside.


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## Lousyweather (Jun 2, 2012)

there's also a silicone tape, Val, which is rated to a higher temperature (I think 500 degrees)......its neater, and doesnt have adhesive failure like the metal tape does.....but hey, anything is better than nothing!


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## DexterDay (Jun 2, 2012)

Val said:


> Thank you for telling me about this. I didnt realize B-vent aluminum inside could melt. Probably because I always thought gas appliances ran hotter than a wood pellet stove. I thought it was a moisture/ corrosion factor. Also- back to the idea of using HVAC tape on the outside of a stove joint, I wonder if you have to buy better grade tape. I saw the better stuff rated at 325 degrees F. That must be ok for the joint outside.


I bought the stuff made by 3M... Plenty good. Its a positive pressure system, Yes. But its not a Very High Pressure. High Flow, Low Pressure.

The tape works good in my application. (Click on pic to enlarge) Also put some silicone on factory joint, tape wouldn't work well right there on that bend..


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## kinsmanstoves (Jun 3, 2012)

smwilliamson said:


> and while your at it, take one of those magnets and see if it clings to the stainless pipe your bought, chances are it will.


 

I have no control on what a chimney manufacturer makes and the formula of the material.  Wish I could help but my powers are limited, sorry of this and wish I could do more for you.

Eric


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## DirtyDave (Jun 3, 2012)

hell....... you all should be more truthfull. 80% of the people using a heating device cranks it up  and leaves on for long extended periods causing overheating to the ENTIRE system ( stove included).  If you have the correct size and amount of  heat generating devices you would not over heat any of the venting materials, causing fires and such, but hey we are all human. If you disagree then look into it scientificlly.


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## Lousyweather (Jun 4, 2012)

I think the original intent of the OP was merely to ask if anyone ever used the cheaper B vent in pellet applications. There isnt anyone here being disingenuous, far as I can tell. We dont see alot of overheated units or venting systems, although, as Don222 can attest, it DOES happen. Cant agree with the 80% figure though, sorry.  Im not really sure how you can "scientifically" come to the conclusion that 80% of folks overheat their appliance and venting, so, I guess I have to ask for the empiracal data on your conclusion.


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## kinsmanstoves (Jun 4, 2012)

Lousyweather said:


> I think the original intent of the OP was merely to ask if anyone ever used the cheaper B vent in pellet applications. There isnt anyone here being disingenuous, far as I can tell. We dont see alot of overheated units or venting systems, although, as Don222 can attest, it DOES happen. Cant agree with the 80% figure though, sorry. Im not really sure how you can "scientifically" come to the conclusion that 80% of folks overheat their appliance and venting, so, I guess I have to ask for the empiracal data on your conclusion.


 

Honestly, I have never done it.

Eric


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## DexterDay (Jun 4, 2012)

I dont run anything of mine over 50% (pellet stoves) With the Quad being even lower than that. My wood stove is another story. It gets pushed a little harder to help reduce pellet consumption. 


DirtyDave said:


> hell....... you all should be more truthfull. 80% of the people using a heating device cranks it up  and leaves on for long extended periods causing overheating to the ENTIRE system ( stove included).  If you have the correct size and amount of  heat generating devices you would not over heat any of the venting materials, causing fires and such, but hey we are all human. If you disagree then look into it scientificlly.


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## save$ (Jun 4, 2012)

Many good friends here always say, "refer to the stove's manual".    Don't try anything not approved of by the manufacturer.  And listen to you buddies when they say to get a smoke detector, carbon dioxide detector, fire extinguisher, and a surg protector.   A short cut may leave you cut short!


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## AbetterChimneynm (Jun 5, 2012)

One of the scariest parts of my job is having to walk into peoples home's and see the "installs" they have done themseleves.....And then tell them that they can not use their only source of heat because they are risking burning their home down......If you take the time and install the stove right with the right pipe, you will never need to worry about it burning your house down and you and your loved ones are safe. And do not listen to the idoits at the box store that don't install/service stoves for a liviing they will tell you what you want to hear in order to complete a sale (A customer of mine was told a pellet stove sold at the box store will heat 200,000 square feet) if you need any advice i am here as well as many other people on this site


Shawn


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## tricky (Jun 8, 2012)

Val said:


> .... Obviously, the interlock system is different so you can't really interchange pipe sections. But I always wonder if people would use B-vent for an detached outside workshop application. Or use B-vent caps (secure with screws). Or use B-vent to extend exterior stove piping?.


   Can B-vent be used to extend an exterior pellet stove vent, if the interior is the proper venting pipe for a pellet stove?


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## tricky (Jun 8, 2012)

Actually, on that note, how can you tell if what your stove is connected to is the proper l-pipe or the insuifficent b-pipe?  Can you tell by just looking at it (while it's hooked up)?


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## Snowy Rivers (Jun 9, 2012)

I am going to, head off on a little rant here.

The B vent is definately a big DO NOT USE

I am not really happy with the best pellet pipe out there, and here is why.

During normal operation with my stoves running at moderate levels, the outer skin of the pellet pipe will aproach 150 to 180F, which is HOT to the touch.
Really cranking up the fire can see this temp at 200F.

I really dont like seeing this sort of temp on the pipe that passes through the wall thimble.
Now here some time ago I had a vent fire in the small whitfield and the outer skin of the pellet vent got hot enough to cause the paint to smoke.

I would really like to see a triple wall pipe with a rock wool or other high temp insulation between the second and third wall to keep the outer jacket temps (part that you can touch) a lot cooler.

Stainless steel is the gold standard for Pellet pipe. Normal wood pellet fuel does not cause serious corrosive action in the pipes inner liner, but some alterantive fuels can.

some cheap pellets that are made with real trashy materials or contaminated with SALT from wood thats been in the ocean or ???? can also lead to corrosion of the pipe.

Never go below what the manufacture recommends and the best thing is to use the best pipe you can find.
Its not worth burning the house down to tray and save a few $$$$ on the pipe.

I know I will get some flak on this one, but I am a staunch beleiver in direct vent systems and keeping the vents short.

They are easier to clean and far cheaper to install.
My main stove has a 4 foot total horizontal run with a 45 angle terminus cap.
A quicky shot with the vacuum hose up the pipe, followed after cleaning the stove with the leaf blower "SUCK" job and the vent is clean as a whistle.
This is also readily accessible from the ground without a ladder and all the risks of climbing.

Also the longer the pipe, the more time the gases have to cool and precipitate out (Creosote)

Yesssss, creosote can form in Pellet vent.

I burn nut shells in my stoves and the stuff does not produce creosote, but it does, or can leave a combustible deposit behind that can/will/has caught on fire.

Anything less than a top quaility stainless pipe is gonna fail, and when that happens, it's anybodies guess as to what will be the outcome.

The venting system is not a place to save money, not even.

Both of our whitfields were well used when I bought them and cost me $200 each, but I bought the top of the line brand new pellet vent to install them.

Just a FWIW.

Ms Snowy


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## Val (Jun 9, 2012)

tricky said:


> Actually, on that note, how can you tell if what your stove is connected to is the proper l-pipe or the insuifficent b-pipe? Can you tell by just looking at it (while it's hooked up)?


I think you can look at the pipe joints. B-vent interlocks look different than pellet stove pipe interlocks. You can see these different interlocks on new pipe sections and compare them side by side next time you are browsing at the hardware store. Also, the words "Type B" might be stamped in the exterior galvanized wall of the b-vent. I would believe the other guys when they say that the aluminum inside wall would melt. When I take a second look at that aluminum lining it looks like such a thin gauge.


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## tricky (Jun 10, 2012)

I looked at there is a sticker on the part that goes through the wall, it says 'low temp l pipe'  Is that good enough?  Or is 'low temp' no good?  I wondered as we got the pipe used with the pellet stove, just wanted to make sure atleast that part was safe and when we replace the stove hopefully we won't have to replace the hella-expensive pipe (yes yes I will if I have too!)  Although there is one section on the outside (horizontal) that appears to be really dark and doesn't look like it connects as tightly as all the other peices, maybe that 12" section isn't the right stuff?  I assume the pipe isn't really supposed to turn black??


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## tricky (Jun 10, 2012)

Ahhhh, I googled it (it's identical!) , the pipe can _come_ in black.....nevermind....


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