# Jotul Oslo... install pics.



## KevinK (Jan 25, 2010)

Well, I posted here my 'new' Oslo https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/51215/P22/

, ...so I'll post pics of the install as I go along. School starts tomorrow (I attend college part time), so work will be slowed, ...but I'll keep posting as I progress. 
   Plan is for a bluestone hearth, ...used brick up the back, ...with two bluestone mantles.

  Kevin

   I was able to finish the hearth this weekend. I sized, cut and put in place the bluestone. I went 60" wide by 50" deep, maintaining adequate clearances as required.


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## Rudyjr (Jan 25, 2010)

Looks great so far, nice job. The Jotul will look great with the stone.


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## carlo (Jan 25, 2010)

I'm just a newbie to wood burning, but I do know my wall gets very hot when cranking my stove. My question to you is do you have enough protection on the wall behind the stove ? I'd go with a bigger area of protection on the wall for piece of mind. 

But your work looks great ! Enjoy !


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## KevinK (Jan 26, 2010)

carlo said:
			
		

> I'm just a newbie to wood burning, but I do know my wall gets very hot when cranking my stove. My question to you is do you have enough protection on the wall behind the stove ? I'd go with a bigger area of protection on the wall for piece of mind.
> 
> But your work looks great ! Enjoy !


 
   Thanks for the comments on the work ; ), ...and I'm sure it's going to get warm. With that said, ... I mapped out clearances above what is required by this specific stove, ...I am also planning/considering a heat shield (already purchased 14 ga. metal).  As well, it will be a brick wall (spaced about an inch) in front of the cinder block wall, ...going about 1' from the ceiling.  The area I suspect you're noting is the bookshefts on both sides. There I plan on turning the outer most bricks (to come out from the wall)  about 1" or so beyond the shelf face, on each side to block (some of the) heat.  The closest point on the stove from (the brick in) that area should end up be around 20-24". Not that it's directly related, ...but I'll also be using double wall stove pipe.


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## Skier76 (Jan 26, 2010)

Nice work so far! And good work getting it done while going to school.


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## carlo (Jan 26, 2010)

KevinK said:
			
		

> carlo said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Sounds like you've covered all your bases. I put a metal heat shield behind my stove and to my amazement the sheetrocked wall is cool to the touch now. Whereas, before the heat shield, I couldn't touch the wall for more than 3 seconds because it was so hot. I also had the stove installed 3" further from the wall than code, but the damn wall 5' across still got really hot. Just wanted to share some concerns with ya.  ;-)


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## KevinK (Feb 2, 2010)

...a little update, ...lower portion of the backwall done...






    The other pics here, which have a few more of the brickwork: http://imageevent.com/hvclassics/generalphotos/shedwork/woodstoverecrm?n=0&z=2&c=4&x=0&m=24&w=0&p=53

  I still need to clean it up, ...and then the upper portion of which I have some ideas. First, I'll get the thimble in place, ...and then map out the bricks from there...


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## Shari (Feb 2, 2010)

Kevin,

Nice layout on the brick work!  The recessed effect is much nicer than straight up - adds some 'interest' to the install.

Shari


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## RonB (Feb 2, 2010)

Kevin- Very nice work and beautiful results.  That stove will really look sharp in there!  Did you say you are going to continue the brick up to 1' short of the ceiling or did you mean 1"?   My vote would be to continue the brick up to the ceiling.


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## tcassavaugh (Feb 2, 2010)

very nice....like the pics posted on the web too....going to be sweet.

cass


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## KevinK (Feb 2, 2010)

RonB said:
			
		

> Kevin- Very nice work and beautiful results.  That stove will really look sharp in there!  Did you say you are going to continue the brick up to 1' short of the ceiling or did you mean 1"?   My vote would be to continue the brick up to the ceiling.


  Thanks for the comments...
   It's been a while since I've done the bricklaying so I could have been a little cleaner, ...but it's that 'rustic' look right? 

  As for going to the ceiling... My 'plan' (which could change ; ) is to go about 1 foot from the ceiling, ...and add a 2nd bluestone mantle (identically sized to the one in place now, ...51" wide, ...by 14" deep). Then on top of that mantle place a 10-12" (by 6" thick) barn beam that would span the same 51" and go to the ceiling.  
  I like the idea/look of brick all the way, ...but there is a drop ceiling in this room and I'm not sure it would look right. I figure with the beam on top, covering the wall where there's no brick, ...you won't see any 'empty' wall space and it will look as if it bricked right to the beam. I also have two barn beams vertically placed (where the wall lights are), ...so that should tie in as well ...I hope


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## KevinK (Feb 2, 2010)

Shari said:
			
		

> Kevin,
> 
> Nice layout on the brick work!  The recessed effect is much nicer than straight up - adds some 'interest' to the install.
> 
> Shari


 
   ...to be honest, that 'recessed' effect was a byproduct of the bookshelves I just put in, ...I wanted to cover any wood surfaces in the vicinity of the stove, ...so I decided to 'turn' the outside bricks. (actually at the bottom, ... I  had to double them to work around the baseboard pipe (which I'll cover with sheetmetal, or a section of angle iron later.) The  brick though, really does add 'depth', ...along with serving as an excellent support for the mantle.

     I have some 'thoughts/plans'  for the top section of brick to add a little 'character', ...but I honestly don't know if I can (or yet how to) do it. And if I need to move/omit the top mantle to do it, ...I might...
  Since I am open for suggestions, I thought I'd reveal .... I would really love to 'somehow' simulate the gothic arches (or features of them) from the Oslo's door, ....into the brickwork.  I can do it with the bricks themselves, ...or I've even thought of using something like band iron.  I really have to think about it, ...because if it's not done right, ...it could ruin the whole thing.  So, ...we'll see, ...I may or may not do it, ...don't know yet    (keeping in mind the wall thimble decorative band is roughly 14+/-" in diameter.)


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## RonB (Feb 2, 2010)

Kevin, The repetition of a theme is a good design principal but I'm not so sure how additional arches would look in that small/narrow of an area.  The stove is plenty good looking on its' own.  I would let the stove be the focal point and not distract from it by possibly 'busy' brickwork or other metal bands.


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## KevinK (Feb 2, 2010)

RonB said:
			
		

> Kevin, The repetition of a theme is a good design principal but I'm not so sure how additional arches would look in that small/narrow of an area.  The stove is plenty good looking on its' own.  I would let the stove be the focal point and not distract from it by possibly 'busy' brickwork or other metal bands.


  Ron,
     The fact that you hit right on some of my exact concerns, ...has me second guessing the whole idea.  Good, ...it's not just me thinking that...
       ...Thanks


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## Green Energy (Feb 3, 2010)

Kevin,

You are doing a great job on your install.  Taking the extra time to do it right is wise.  I have been burning my Oslo for a couple months now and love it.  It is a great stove that you will enjoy.  Looking forward to seeing your continuing progress.  GE


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## KevinK (Feb 8, 2010)

Well, I got the chimney done (thankfully here in NY we were spared the snow they got south of us), ...but it was a cold day to be up a ladder and on the roof. None-the-less, ...it's complete, ...and hopefully I'll get back to finish the inside brickwork in the next week or so  

   Here's the album (chimney pics near the end), http://imageevent.com/hvclassics/generalphotos/shedwork/woodstoverecrm?n=0&z=2&c=4&x=0&m=24&w=0&p=57
 ...but a couple shots.


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## KevinK (Feb 11, 2010)

... Install complete , ...just have the barn beam to put on top of the upper mantle, ...and some cleaning up, ...almost ready to go


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## RonB (Feb 11, 2010)

Looks great Kevin! A lot of hard work with good results and something to be proud of.   You put a lot of thought into this install and it shows.


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## rover47 (Feb 11, 2010)

Kevin great job! it looks great. Gee can you come up to Albany, got a few projects ;o)


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## KevinK (Feb 11, 2010)

jrandall said:
			
		

> Kevin great job! it looks great. Gee can you come up to Albany, got a few projects ;o)


 
  . ...you're close too , ...I'm attending classes at SUNY New Paltz 

   ...knowing we were going to get snow on Wednesday I planned a vacation day, .. stayed up Tuesday night, ....until 4am! working on the brickwork, ...got up Wednesday morning at 8am, ...and got right back to it. It was a marathon, ...but it's done. , ...and I even tested it out ...


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## VCBurner (Feb 11, 2010)

Congrats man!  Great to see the well documented pics of the whole instal.  Sounds like you worked your butt off!!  The stove looks awesome and so does the hearth!  Great job!


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## firefighterjake (Feb 11, 2010)

Looks good . . . and looks even better with a fire!


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## BucksCounty (Feb 11, 2010)

Very cool and impressive!


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## f3cbboy (Feb 12, 2010)

Looks real good!!  That's some nice masonry work and that stove looks great with a fire going in it!


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## FPX Dude (Feb 12, 2010)

Nice, looks great, luv the pix!  How's temps when you're sitting at the desk on the right?


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## glassmanjpf (Feb 12, 2010)

Great looking install.  How difficult was it installing the exterior piping.  1 or 2 man job?  I had mine installed by so called professionals.  Came out good and functions but I like your wood blocking to make it even more secure.


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## KevinK (Feb 12, 2010)

FPX Dude said:
			
		

> Nice, looks great, luv the pix!  How's temps when you're sitting at the desk on the right?


 
   This is my first experience with an efficient stove, ...and to me, ...it's more of a steady heat, ...not overbearing heat. The room is relatively small, but I wanted something cozy and warm, ...so far it seems perfect. I will add however (again, ...I'm new with this stove) that with the doors closed and the air adjustment all the way to the right (+), ...it just hits about 400 degrees. (on a condor stovetop therm). I do have a (condor) flu therm I will install in the next day or so. My point being, ...I'd like to get it a tad hotter. As for proximity, ...the bricks behind it get warm, ...but definitely not hot, ...so the desk to the right is fine.


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## KevinK (Feb 12, 2010)

glassmanjpf said:
			
		

> Great looking install.  How difficult was it installing the exterior piping.  1 or 2 man job?  I had mine installed by so called professionals.  Came out good and functions but I like your wood blocking to make it even more secure.


  I did this entire job myself, ...that being said, ...a second pair of hands would have been nice for the exterior piping. As for installing the pipe, ...it's actually quite simple. A couple things to consider as you're approaching this however:

  1.) The woodstove install for me was part of a bigger project, ...the rec room. I  built the cabinet the TV is in, ...as well the bookshelves on both sides of the stove. KEY to all of this was basing everything off the fact that the stove pipe location would be centered between two studs., ...THAT was my starting point. Because I did that, ...a lot of things 'fell' in place.  The "Wall Thimble" that comes with the Supervent Through the Wall Kit is made to fit between 16" on center studs, ...so this fit easily. As well, ...the exterior wall brackets, ...the mount holes in those, ....based on 16" wall studs. SO, ...you end up hitting studs all the way up with the wall brackets.
   One thing I did spend a bit more time on was, ...where the pipe goes through the wall. If I ever decide to run a masonry chimney, ...and to be extra precautious, ...I ran a 12" ID clay thimble through the wall. I needed to cut this to length, ...and totally modify the Supervent sheetmetal thimble (drilled out all the rivets, ...set the diameter to fit just inside the 12" ID flu, ...and spot-welded it all back together, ...so in effect, ...my insulated pipe runs through the clay flu. If I ever decide to go to masonry, ...I'll run an 8" clay flu through the 12". As well, ...I won't need to disturb any of my interior brickwork.
  Regarding the wall brackets, ...I didn't like the idea of the metal brackets alone against the (vinyl) siding, ...it didn't 'uniformly' set the siding back. So, ... I mounted the brackets to the (pressure treated) 2x4's and screwed those to the wall too.  Once you hone in on that spacing, ...it's really a matter of keeping it level as you stack the pipe sections on. Again, ...this is something I had planned all along, .....since it drives the LENGTH of the through the wall insulated pipe, ...noting that it needs to protrude into the living space by at least 3" beyond the wall.
  The area of going through the soffit was a bit simpler than I thought too. With a long level against the side of the pipe, (using the 2 1/2" thickness of the level as a guide, ...I marked where I needed to cut. I cut and flashed it all, ...and I like the way it looks. The one thing I will plan to add is (what I believe is technically called)a "cricket" to divert water around the opening I cut. It's simple and clean, ...and should do the job.

   All in all, ...yes, one person can do it.


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## KevinK (Feb 12, 2010)

VCBurner said:
			
		

> Congrats man!  Great to see the well documented pics of the whole instal.  Sounds like you worked your butt off!!  The stove looks awesome and so does the hearth!  Great job!


 
   Thanks for the comments everyone, ...and I have to admit, ...I DID work my butt off the past 24 hours, ...but it was worth it. 

   Honestly, ...now, ...my mission is to really get to know this stove. ...and this forum is FULL of great info


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## gibson (Feb 12, 2010)

Well done!  All of that hard work was well worth it.


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## bill*67 (Feb 15, 2010)

a very nice job indeed! I hope you have time to sit and have a cold one next to that stove, cause it sounds like you've been going nonstop!


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## tcassavaugh (Feb 15, 2010)

nicely done. i really like the pics of the install. i punched my hole through a masonary and cinderblock basement wall by hand using a puch and chisel. can't say that was much fun. saw your'from the hudson valley...i'm origionally from upstate n.y. growing up near albany. you'll certainly be able to use the stove.

cass


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## KevinK (Feb 15, 2010)

I'll take some final pics tonight (barn beam in place at top, etc.), ...I'm very pleased with how it turned out. The past few days, I've been keeping it going and I don't think the furnace has been on, ...other than for hot water  . 
  Pretty much load it, ...leave the cleanout door open for a few minutes to get it going, ...close it up and it burns fine. The stovetop thermometer usually reads around 350-400, ...but the flu probe reads 450-475 which I think it good.
   I had some 'scrap' pieces from the (oak) barn beam that I split and burned, ....that (200+ year old) stuff was like a chunk of coal, ...burned all night 

   ...and I definitely had a couple cold ones, ...I earned them


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## KevinK (Feb 16, 2010)

...final pics 



















    Full album start to finish, ...here: http://imageevent.com/hvclassics/generalphotos/shedwork/woodstoverecrm


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## btj1031 (Feb 16, 2010)

Very well done.  Thanks for sharing the pics.  That thing will be keeping you warm for a long, long time.


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## tiber (Feb 16, 2010)

Where'd you buy the pipe from? (trying to avoid paying freight).


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## KevinK (Feb 16, 2010)

tiber said:
			
		

> Where'd you buy the pipe from? (trying to avoid paying freight).


 
   I purchased most of mine from Craigslist (at $40 a 36" length, ...8", ...I couldn't pass it up), ...the rest at Lowes.

    Lowes does carry the pipe, ...they are a supervent retailer. If they don't have it in stock, ...you can special order and "in-store" pickup, ...where you pay no shipping.


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## Berner (Nov 10, 2012)

KevinK said:


> I purchased most of mine from Craigslist (at $40 a 36" length, ...8", ...I couldn't pass it up), ...the rest at Lowes.
> 
> Lowes does carry the pipe, ...they are a supervent retailer. If they don't have it in stock, ...you can special order and "in-store" pickup, ...where you pay no shipping.


 

Congrats on the setup!  It looks great.  I too want to install a Jotul Oslo in my home and was curious how this has worked out for you over the past two years?  I've read the manual twice and I'm a little confused about the 36" clearance to combustibles?  The manual makes it seem as if this is a requirement.  They also require 18" off the left load door for the hearth floor protection.  Wouldn't the wood floor next to the hearth pad not meet the 36" clearance to combustibles?  Also I have a similar setup as you with wall running parallel to the stove.  My wall is within 36" to where the stove would be but it is behind the brick fireplace wall.  Does this comply with the 36" to combustibles?  Sorry for all the questions but I'm just curious if this will work for me in my current setup.


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