# trailer re-deck options?



## pybyr

I have a 5x8 utility trailer with a planked deck that has gone past the point of saving due to rot- thankfully, the steel trailer frame itself is structurally fine.

I can and may probably used pressure treated 1x6s, but am curious about synthetic decking.  I recall reading that the "Trex" and similar products don't do well if subjected to significant weight or unsupported spans- so are probably not suited to this use, but are there any other options that I should consider that would be renewable/ recycled/ rot resistant, easily and quickly available and not premium priced? (I don't ask for too much,  do I   ?  but figure it never hurts to ask/ learn)?

Thanks


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## PJF1313

Expanded metal sheets?!!

As far as I can remember, all the synthetic stuff has 2 problems - Sun and Weight = warping.


My Second choice would be P/T 1x or 2x stock. Cheaper, but may have to replace in the future.

Edit : My 1st and a half choice would be C-De(X)terior ply-wood.  More expensive; but better strenth.

Fist choice wold be an "Exotic" (rain forest) wood.  Most expensive; may require pre-drilling holes, HEAVY, but lasts like (1800's) iron = less re-decking.


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## Fi-Q

At home, a lot of people are using rough tamarack for decking. Just bolt your decking in, as soon as you get it cut / planked. TAmarack have a tendancy to twist when it dries, so bolting it in place while still fresh and full of sap keep it straith. Tamarack is consider asoft wood, but it is very 'hard' and i resist very good to humidity. Make a excellent cheap choice for decking, anx make awesome wood floor as well. 

So not sure how eAsy it is to get some for you, but might be An option to look in to.


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## lukem

What do you use the trailer for?  Since it is only 5x8 I doubt you are hauling heavy equipment.  What you haul will play a lot into the best option.

If you are hauling a small lawn tractor expanded metal is good (for lightweight low impact loads).

If you are tossing in firewood from 5' away I would would put in a 2x6 PT deck.  It can handle high impact and heavy loads.  Wood floors are also easier to shovel mulch/etc off of than expanded metal.  They don't last forever, but will last a LONG time.

If you are really beating on it, diamond plate would be good...but for a trailer that size it would be big time overkill.


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## mayhem

Call your local lumbermills and see if they sell direct to the consumer.  You can pick up non-PT 2x6's significantly cheaper than at the lumberyards or home improvement stores.  

TREX is 3x the cost of wood.  Not even close to worth it IMHO.  Put a good wood deck on there and take care of it, it'll last plenty long.


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## gzecc

Look on CL for someone removing a deck. Use pressure treated 2x6 or 8's. Composite needs to be fastened down at least every 16". Usually can't be done on a trailer.


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## billb3

rough sawn oak can take a beating
probably overkill for 5 x 8.


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## pybyr

Thanks for all the suggestions- especially the tamarack (not sure if I can find it in time or nearby for this project, but great idea) and the idea of small local mill-direct planks that I might need to replace sooner but will be much more modestly priced.


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## woodsman23

go to Amish and get some 2X6 larch pine and coat (treat) it and install.


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## thinkxingu

I replaced my trailer decking with PT plywood.  Bad move--should have paid the premium for marine grade, since the exposure to moisture has started to warp and bubble the PT.  Sure, it won't rot, but it will twist and pop!

S


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## firefighterjake

Pybyr . . . if you go the rough cut option in your neck of the woods you may be able to find a mill that does rough cut hemlock . . . when fresh cut it's easy to work with . . . but as it dries it gets wicked tough.


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## flyingcow

firefighterjake said:
			
		

> Pybyr . . . if you go the rough cut option in your neck of the woods you may be able to find a mill that does rough cut hemlock . . . when fresh cut it's easy to work with . . . but as it dries it gets wicked tough.



I'm with FFJ on this one. In this region, hemlock is hard to beat. Majority of logging bridges use this wood. I've got to redeck my trailer, this will be my choice.


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## backpack09

Just use standard untreated 2x10 or 2x12s and do it again in 10 years...


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## Later

Aluminum diamond plate.


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## gpcollen1

Marine plywood is a bit expensive but holds up against the elements for sure


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## pybyr

firefighterjake said:
			
		

> Pybyr . . . if you go the rough cut option in your neck of the woods you may be able to find a mill that does rough cut hemlock . . . when fresh cut it's easy to work with . . . but as it dries it gets wicked tough.



Just found out this AM that a mill in my town has hemlock 1x planks available-- and it'll only cost me about $25 for enough of them to redeck the whole trailer.  That's my kind of material- tough but affordable!  Thanks for all the suggestions.


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## pybyr

Now let me ask another question: I will not have time to paint or otherwise treat the planking before I screw it down to the trailer frame-- need to take the trailer on a mini road trip and am already way behind on getting it roadworthy-- but after I return, should I try to coat or treat the hemlock with anything?  If so, what (most stains and deck treatments are in my opinion overpriced and undereffective).  A friend of mine swears by used motor oil on his various roughsawn unpainted outbuildings.  I know that'd be frowned on by some, but as long as I am careful to put on just enough to soak into the wood, and park the trailer over some lush grass so that any drips, rainwash, etc. will be absorbed and _not_ get washed into any water bodies or go deep into permeable soil, is there any practical drawback to that- as a way of keeping water out of the wood and delaying decay?  Yes it would be slippery initially, but that should decrease over time.


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## firefighterjake

It's not quite the same, but on my sheds where I used hemlock I didn't bother treating them with anything and they're holding up fine . . . a few weather checks and shrinkage as the green wood aged, but no issues. It may be different with a trailer though . . .  I know on my sled trailer with plywood decking I periodically throw down a layer of Thompson's which does a fair job . . . for a while.


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## Badfish740

pybyr said:
			
		

> Now let me ask another question: I will not have time to paint or otherwise treat the planking before I screw it down to the trailer frame-- need to take the trailer on a mini road trip and am already way behind on getting it roadworthy-- but after I return, should I try to coat or treat the hemlock with anything?  If so, what (most stains and deck treatments are in my opinion overpriced and undereffective).  A friend of mine swears by used motor oil on his various roughsawn unpainted outbuildings.  I know that'd be frowned on by some, but as long as I am careful to put on just enough to soak into the wood, and park the trailer over some lush grass so that any drips, rainwash, etc. will be absorbed and _not_ get washed into any water bodies or go deep into permeable soil, is there any practical drawback to that- as a way of keeping water out of the wood and delaying decay?  Yes it would be slippery initially, but that should decrease over time.



Maybe if you keep it oiled constantly, but usually wood that is oiled and then dries out starts to crack and degrade.  It happens a lot to gunstocks when the guns have been over oiled and the oil is allowed to run over the stock.


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## Later

If you can have a clear conscience and as long as you don't carry materials that can't be stained, I'd use old motor oil.


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## Cowboy Billy

When I built my wagon I was told to use old oil too. And I wish I would have but I had it in my mind I wanted it painted white. I used oil based floor paint and it and it keeps getting scratched through. While I was building it I broke a hyd hose and it sprayed part of the frame and it looked really good with the oil on and it soaks in.

Billy


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