# Log splitter opinions



## pjohnson (Jan 6, 2019)

Ok getting tired of the fiskers, time to start thinking about a splitter. Looking for opinions on different types of splitters. Problem is the brother in-law has a 40 year old home made splitter with a hyd log lift that I really like. But buying something similar would be in the 5000 dollar range. What’s everyone like?

The horizontal/vertical ones, seems about the best compromise. Not sure I want to be bent over wrestling big rounds at my age and picking up everything off the ground.

I’ve used horizontal only one with hyd log lift. I really like this style. Seems this style with fast cycle times and 4 or 6 way wedge would be the nicest set up. Biggest draw back is prices are 5000 and up.

Kinetic ones I find interesting not sure I want to deal with lack of way to get bigger rounds on it. But I do like the speed.

So what’s everyone’s likes or dislikes on different styles of splitters, I do like a good quality tool that works. Not necessarily the cheapest one I can find.


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## Bad LP (Jan 6, 2019)

Approaching 58. I just don't deal with large diameter wood and I love my Super Split. I like the working height, the work table, the ease of moving it around without help, the speed and the piece and quiet with the electric 220 motor. I went 220 to avoid people asking me to borrow it AND 220 runs cheaper. The Honda is sitting on my basement floor. I'm rather sure the SS will outlast me and I know if I ever get tired of wood and move to a pellet boiler the SS holds it's value very well.

I needed some custom hydro hoses for my snowblower. I'm even more happy with the SS.


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## pjohnson (Jan 6, 2019)

The S.S. looks nice I consider it if  I could get large rounds on it. I’ve already got a lot of 24 plus maple and oak logs not going to let em rot. I’ve thought about using tractor loader to lift them but seems like a lot of screwing around.


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## Jazzberry (Jan 6, 2019)

pjohnson said:


> The S.S. looks nice I consider it if  I could get large rounds on it. I’ve already got a lot of 24 plus maple and oak logs not going to let em rot. I’ve thought about using tractor loader to lift them but seems like a lot of screwing around.



Speeco 22 ton. Neighbors is 12 to 13 years old and works as good as my 4 year old County Line which is also a Speeco. It tilts vertical for big stuff or if you like to split while sitting down. Tilt would be at the top of the list for any splitter for me cause I hate unneccessary hard work and I like splitting in my chair.


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## maple1 (Jan 7, 2019)

Since a lift seems to be your #1 consideration - there is a very reasonably priced 'box storish' type splitter out there that has a lift. I have seen it on here before but can't remember the make/model. Also don't know if it's any good or not, but seemed like a lot for the money at the time.

(That likely didn't help much but maybe someone knows what I'm talking about & can post it up).


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## maple1 (Jan 7, 2019)

This may or may not have been it:

https://www.palletforks.com/3-point...er-37-ton-tractor-mount-w-log-lift-catch.html


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## pjohnson (Jan 7, 2019)

Rugged made is probably the one your thinking of. Rather then specific brands I was looking for opinions, pros and cons, likes or dislikes of different styles of splitters. Like why do you like your kinetic, or vertical/ horizontal or horizontal with log lift.


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## maple1 (Jan 7, 2019)

I have a Wallenstein/Surge Master H/V model. Have not felt a need for anything different.

I haul it right to the tree behind my ATV ( or behind my ATV and trailer, B-Train like) & split right where the rounds landed. It is compact & easy to move & very capable. If the rounds are too big to comfortably lift, I swing it vertical. Makes things easy. It is laid out right - very good balance, the control equal to work from either side, and engine up front out of harms way. Some features most all box store units don't have if you study them.

Most box store splitters are pretty cookie cutter in design & construction - which may be OK depending on preferences & situation.


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## Rob711 (Jan 7, 2019)

What’s your approx budget? I Ve been using a 30 yr old didier. Just replaced engine for 100$. It’s only horizontal operation but it has split whatever I can manage to get onto the beam. Sounds like you may be spoiled by using you bil’s. Bad time of year but look for used. You will kick yourself for not doing it sooner, whatever you go with.


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## pjohnson (Jan 7, 2019)

Yes I’ve been spoiled using one with a log lift. It just seems like the most efficient way to run em thru a 4 or 6 way wedge and be done and the splits slide off the end. The vertical ones just don’t look comfortable to use bent over or sitting on a log bent over to use them. Trying to move logs around sitting down.maybe I’m wrong that’s why I’m getting opinions. Might have to rent one see how it works. 

 I’ve been watching craigslist but they are either junk or they want 200 or 300 less then I could buy a new one for.


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## VirginiaIron (Jan 9, 2019)

As far as lifts for the money, RUGGEDMADE seems to have the best deal going dollar wise for a complete unit.


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## CentralVAWoodHeat (Jan 10, 2019)

Both a vertical and horizontal option on the unit is a must.

Be aware of the location of the engine relative to where the log will be split as well.  I wouldnt reccommend one where logs/splits/debris can easily fall on the engine.  

Dual sided log cradles are also a must


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## SpaceBus (Jan 10, 2019)

after seeing Craigslist had little in the way of decent splitters, I looked up Wood Splitters Direct and saw the Dirty Hand Tools packages they offer for the 30 and 35 ton models. Seems like a pretty sweet deal all under $2,000.


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## kevin j (Jan 10, 2019)

i would  put the rounds in the loader bucket put the loader level with the log splitter and split the big rounds and throw the pieces back into the other side of the loader bucket. take them somewhere and dump them 
 but the log lift is absolutely marvelous it’s also a staging table to put six or eight or 10 rounds on off of the trailer and then split from that log lift as a staging table


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## pjohnson (Jan 16, 2019)

I keep reading and watching utube videos on how everyone loves their super split kinetic splitters. They sure look interesting but no log lift. I could use my small tractor loader to lift large rounds. Seems slow but workable. But by the time I get a super split with options I like and shipping it’s appoaching the price of a hydraulic splitter with log lift. I’ll just keep over thinking it till I get my taxes done.


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## SpaceBus (Jan 16, 2019)

If you find a splitter with a good log lifter that's not too much, post what you get. I'm leaning towards a vertical/horizontal DHT 35T splitter and just running it vertical for the really heavy stuff.


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## Jazzberry (Jan 16, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> If you find a splitter with a good log lifter that's not too much, post what you get. I'm leaning towards a vertical/horizontal DHT 35T splitter and just running it vertical for the really heavy stuff.




Check the speed against the 22 ton. The 22 has more than enough power and is cheaper and faster


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## SpaceBus (Jan 16, 2019)

Jazzberry said:


> Check the speed against the 22 ton. The 22 has more than enough power and is cheaper and faster



Thank you for saying something, because I have no idea what size splitter is really necessary. I just figured if I got a 30-35t splitter I would never need a bigger splitter.


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## pjohnson (Jan 16, 2019)

I haven't found one I like that's not too much. Right now the one I like most in my research is made by Wolf Ridge a smaller company close to me. They make some beautiful splitters but start at about 5000. I do prefer to buy usa made even if its a few bucks more. Swisher also seems to be made in usa and has a nice vert one but Im not sure if they are still making splitters. Does anyone know if Swisher got out of the splitter business?


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## Montanalocal (Jan 16, 2019)

Electric Swisher

https://www.swisherinc.com/catalog/...on-120-volt-electric-full-frame-log-splitter/


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## Jazzberry (Jan 16, 2019)

I guess the 22 has now evolved into a 25. Anyways much more power than you will need and one of the most highly rated. They also go on sale for $100.00 off frequently.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-25-ton-log-splitter-126151799--1?cm_vc=-10005


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## jaoneill (Feb 3, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> Thank you for saying something, because I have no idea what size splitter is really necessary. I just figured if I got a 30-35t splitter I would never need a bigger splitter.


35 ton is nice for the once in 5 years that you might need the extra power but they tend to be slower. Tonnage is determined primarily by cylinder size and the high tonage, large cylinders take more oil volume (and many times higher pressure) that usually translates into slower cycle times, unless they are fed with a comparably larger pump which they seldom have. I have a 3 point hitch vertical unit that I built forty five years ago and much prefer it to the horizontal/vertical store bought one that I only use occasionally. I originally built the 3 pt unit with a 6" cylinder and it would literally split anything; it would cut directly through a sugar maple knot if the knot didn't split. About 25 years ago, to speed up the process, I replaced the 6" cylinder with a 4"; half the cycle time and rarely come across anything it won't split.
The biggest advantages to the 3 pt vertical are twofold: 1 - you don't have to maintain another small engine and hydraulic system and, 2 - it is highly maneuverable. Simply back up to larger rounds, drop the splitter shoe to ground level and it takes a minimum of effort to jackass the round onto the splitter. I knock the larger rounds into manageable size pieces then raise the 3 pt until the shoe is at a comfortable working height and reduce the pieces to final size from a standing position.


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## SpaceBus (Feb 3, 2019)

jaoneill said:


> 35 ton is nice for the once in 5 years that you might need the extra power but they tend to be slower. Tonnage is determined primarily by cylinder size and the high tonage, large cylinders take more oil volume (and many times higher pressure) that usually translates into slower cycle times, unless they are fed with a comparably larger pump which they seldom have. I have a 3 point hitch vertical unit that I built forty five years ago and much prefer it to the horizontal/vertical store bought one that I only use occasionally. I originally built the 3 pt unit with a 6" cylinder and it would literally split anything; it would cut directly through a sugar maple knot if the knot didn't split. About 25 years ago, to speed up the process, I replaced the 6" cylinder with a 4"; half the cycle time and rarely come across anything it won't split.
> The biggest advantages to the 3 pt vertical are twofold: 1 - you don't have to maintain another small engine and hydraulic system and, 2 - it is highly maneuverable. Simply back up to larger rounds, drop the splitter shoe to ground level and it takes a minimum of effort to jackass the round onto the splitter. I knock the larger rounds into manageable size pieces then raise the 3 pt until the shoe is at a comfortable working height and reduce the pieces to final size from a standing position.



I have also considered the benefits and downsides to the tractor splitter. I still don't know. Eventually I'd like to have a SxS and I feel like that would be an easier rig to drag the splitter through the woods. I do like the idea of one less small engine to maintain, but I also have to always use the tractor to split firewood.

Is it really that much slower with the larger cylinder? I've never used a hydraulic splitter before. I'd just hate to come across some stuff the hydro splitter can't handle. Maybe get a 22T V/H stand alone and get a high tonnage splitter for the tractor?


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## VirginiaIron (Feb 3, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> I have also considered the benefits and downsides to the tractor splitter. I still don't know. Eventually I'd like to have a SxS and I feel like that would be an easier rig to drag the splitter through the woods. I do like the idea of one less small engine to maintain, but I also have to always use the tractor to split firewood.
> 
> Is it really that much slower with the larger cylinder? I've never used a hydraulic splitter before. I'd just hate to come across some stuff the hydro splitter can't handle. Maybe get a 22T V/H stand alone and get a high tonnage splitter for the tractor?


I have found the tractor 3 point units seem to be slower. Plus, your hydraulic system heats up and, imo, the cost per hour ratio is not economical. Depending on the tractor, you may be $100 hour, or more (purchase price divided by hours used) depending on the age and cost. I don't want that kind of wear and tear on my tractor [Edit- to split wood]. Currently, I am running $71 an hour on my loader just to break even. That doesn't include fuel, wear, or my labor.


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## SpaceBus (Feb 3, 2019)

VirginiaIron said:


> I have found the tractor 3 point units seem to be slower. Plus, your hydraulic system heats up and, imo, the cost per hour ratio is not economical. Depending on the tractor, you may be $100 hour, or more (purchase price divided by hours used) depending on the age and cost. I don't want that kind of wear and tear on my tractor. Currently, I am running $71 an hour on my loader just to break even. That doesn't include fuel, wear, or my labor.



What kind of formula did you use to find that figure? That's good information to know.


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## VirginiaIron (Feb 3, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> What kind of formula did you use to find that figure? That's good information to know.


Purchase price divided by the hours used/accumulated on the machine.
[Edit- $30,000 purchase price divided by 300 hours on machine = $100 hour operating cost. $30k/100 hours = $300 hour.]


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## jaoneill (Feb 3, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> I have also considered the benefits and downsides to the tractor splitter. I still don't know. Eventually I'd like to have a SxS and I feel like that would be an easier rig to drag the splitter through the woods. I do like the idea of one less small engine to maintain, but I also have to always use the tractor to split firewood.
> 
> Is it really that much slower with the larger cylinder? I've never used a hydraulic splitter before. I'd just hate to come across some stuff the hydro splitter can't handle. Maybe get a 22T V/H stand alone and get a high tonnage splitter for the tractor?


I can promise you that a 22T will split 95% or more of what you have to split. You might have to occasionally spin the log to a different position but virtually all will split. Compare cycle times, that will tell the tale; but keep in mind that the times manufacturers list are theoretical and should be taken with a grain of salt.
I run my V/H just at about 3/4 throttle, still fast enough for an old guy to keep up with but not wasting fuel and adding excessive wear and tear on the machine. I will step it up if I have help to feed it but rarely do. I use the 3 pt unit on a 48 hp tractor with a 15 gpm hydraulic pump and run the tractor at just over 1000 rpm (fast idle) to give me a similar cycle time. Both are 22T and the only blocks I can't split are those with large knots resulting in 90 degree reverses in the grain; 50T probably wouldn't split them, they are noodle material.....


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## jaoneill (Feb 3, 2019)

VirginiaIron said:


> Purchase price divided by the hours used/accumulated on the machine.
> [Edit- $30,000 purchase price divided by 300 hours on machine = $100 hour operating cost. $30k/100 hours = $300 hour.]


I would venture that your formula is flawed. Hourly depreciation would be calculated using the expected design life of the machine, not hours currently on the clock. I believe that hour meters are also tied to rpm's and don't reflect real time. Run a machine at half throttle for an hour and see what the hour meter reads, you'll be surprised.


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## VirginiaIron (Feb 3, 2019)

jaoneill said:


> I would venture that your formula is flawed. Hourly depreciation would be calculated using the expected design life of the machine, not hours currently on the clock. I believe that hour meters are also tied to rpm's and don't reflect real time. Run a machine at half throttle for an hour and see what the hour meter reads, you'll be surprised.


I agree that formula is subjective. However, the costs per hour are justifyable, or not, to the user. If one purchases a $150k machine and you blow the engine or transmission out of warranty, one will realize, very quickly how much per hour that machine cost to run. Conversley, one could accurately say they have 3000 hours on a $30k machine and determine the machine cost per hour is $1[0] an hour - not including tires, batteries, fuel, etc.


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## jaoneill (Feb 3, 2019)

VirginiaIron said:


> I agree that formula is subjective. However, the costs per hour are justifyable, or not, to the user. If one purchases a $150k machine and you blow the engine or transmission out of warranty, one will realize, very quickly how much per hour that machine cost to run. Conversley, one could accurately say they have 3000 hours on a $30k machine and determine the machine cost per hour is $1 an hour - not including tires, batteries, fuel, etc.


Having farmed most of my life, and had anywhere from six to fifteen tractors at any given time, I can say with some confidence that, if maintained and not abused, the average tractor will function with no major repairs for at least 4,000 hours, most go to 6,000 hrs before an engine overhaul. Years ago I bought a new Romanian made, Universal, 60hp tractor (considered a throwaway) that had 10,000 hrs on the clock when I sold it and it still ran flawlessly.  
Occasionally a person gets unlucky. We currently have an 80 hp Mahindra that spun a bearing and had to have the engine rebuilt at 1,900 hours to the tune of $6,000 for parts. Needless to say we'll never buy another one of that breed (we rebuilt a comparable hp Ford with 7,200 hrs on the clock, the year before for $1,400 in parts).


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## SpaceBus (Feb 3, 2019)

jaoneill said:


> Having farmed most of my life, and had anywhere from six to fifteen tractors at any given time, I can say with some confidence that, if maintained and not abused, the average tractor will function with no major repairs for at least 4,000 hours, most go to 6,000 hrs before an engine overhaul. Years ago I bought a new Romanian made, Universal, 60hp tractor (considered a throwaway) that had 10,000 hrs on the clock when I sold it and it still ran flawlessly.
> Occasionally a person gets unlucky. We currently have an 80 hp Mahindra that spun a bearing and had to have the engine rebuilt at 1,900 hours to the tune of $6,000 for parts. Needless to say we'll never buy another one of that breed (we rebuilt a comparable hp Ford with 7,200 hrs on the clock, the year before for $1,400 in parts).



Slowly I plan on taking all of the trade classes at the local community College. I've already taken a handful of automotive classes (not that I needed them, but the GI bill makes it worth while) including engines. The local school offers heavy duty diesel which is awesome. I should be able to maintain the tractor I buy and whatever equipment, aside from major failures that require special tools, once I get a roofed parking structure built.


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## SpaceBus (Feb 3, 2019)

Well, whatever work my body will let me do, which means slowly.


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## Woodsplitter67 (Feb 4, 2019)

Jazzberry said:


> Check the speed against the 22 ton. The 22 has more than enough power and is cheaper and faster



I agree with you on this.. i have the 22 ton and the 27 ton.. my go to is the 22 ton.. i loaned my 27 to to my brother..the 22 ton has split everything i put in gront of it.. rounds to 36inches


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## DITTY22 (Feb 5, 2019)

just bought this county line 25ton splitter a few weeks ago. Seems like it should split most anything. I also looked at the 3pt splitters for the tractor but the thought of running up all the hours on the Deere @ 30k replacement value to the $999 for the self contained unit it was a no brainer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Tomyv (May 14, 2019)

I purchased the 22 ton rugged made with the cradle and log lift and I have been absolutely thrilled with it for the price.


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## EODMSgt (May 14, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> I have also considered the benefits and downsides to the tractor splitter. I still don't know. Eventually I'd like to have a SxS and I feel like that would be an easier rig to drag the splitter through the woods. I do like the idea of one less small engine to maintain, but I also have to always use the tractor to split firewood.



I looked at the 3-point system years ago when I purchased the tractor but preferred the flexibility of the tow-behind splitter. I can hook the splitter up to the SxS and get it into a lot more places than I can get the tractor. I can leave the splitter in the woods and haul the splits out with the SxS. Much more efficient for my purposes than a 3-point splitter (I realize everyone's uses/situations are different, just my $.02). Plus it's one less implement I have to change out on the tractor and I can leave the splitter set up and ready to go where I split most of my rounds while I use the tractor elsewhere.


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## SpaceBus (May 14, 2019)

EODMSgt said:


> I looked at the 3-point system years ago when I purchased the tractor but preferred the flexibility of the tow-behind splitter. I can hook the splitter up to the SxS and get it into a lot more places than I can get the tractor. I can leave the splitter in the woods and haul the splits out with the SxS. Much more efficient for my purposes than a 3-point splitter (I realize everyone's uses/situations are different, just my $.02). Plus it's one less implement I have to change out on the tractor and I can leave the splitter set up and ready to go where I split most of my rounds while I use the tractor elsewhere.



I did end up with a self contained Brave 20t dual split unit. It's fairly light and I can move it by hand on flat surfaces, but that only includes our driveway. If I need to move it more than 20 feet, I put a hitch on the tractor and move it. Because like you I usually have something on my 3pt hitch I invested in a clamp on receiver for the loader bucket. This has proven to be very handy and I can also put my hitch mounted  vise on it and have a mobile work bench, sort of.


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## jaoneill (May 14, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> I did end up with a self contained Brave 20t dual split unit. It's fairly light and I can move it by hand on flat surfaces, but that only includes our driveway. If I need to move it more than 20 feet, I put a hitch on the tractor and move it. Because like you I usually have something on my 3pt hitch I invested in a clamp on receiver for the loader bucket. This has proven to be very handy and I can also put my hitch mounted  vise on it and have a mobile work bench, sort of.



As I mentioned in a previous post I have both 3-pt and a stand alone splitter. I usually prefer to use the 3-pt but as you have noted the stand alone has its advantages. FWIW, I generally tow mine behind the gator but they can be a bear to manuever in the woods by hand. Years ago I invested in 13" trailer wheels/tires; like night and day, it makes all the difference in the world.


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## baseroom (May 16, 2019)

DITTY22 said:


> View attachment 240269
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I got the same one month and a 1/2 ago.  I agree!!  It spits everything, starts on first pull!


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## pjohnson (May 18, 2019)

I guess I started this thread a while back and kind of forgot about it. I ended up buying a splitter from a small local manufacture close to me called  Wolfe Ridge Mfg. He is a small business manufacturing splitters with USA components, makes a very nice line of splitters. Definitely not the cheapest option but one of the better splitters I've come across. They met all my criteria, USA made, fast cycle times, Honda engine, log lift, 4 and 6 way wedge. So far very happy with it makes a pile of wood in a hurry, can't think of anything I want to change or modify.


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## SpaceBus (May 18, 2019)

pjohnson said:


> I guess I started this thread a while back and kind of forgot about it. I ended up buying a splitter from a small local manufacture close to me called  Wolfe Ridge Mfg. He is a small business manufacturing splitters with USA components, makes a very nice line of splitters. Definitely not the cheapest option but one of the better splitters I've come across. They met all my criteria, USA made, fast cycle times, Honda engine, log lift, 4 and 6 way wedge. So far very happy with it makes a pile of wood in a hurry, can't think of anything I want to change or modify.


Wow, those are some serious machines on the website. I like the log lift option.


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## pjohnson (May 19, 2019)

From my past experience using a log splitter with a lift it was the one thing I had to have. I did buy the Pro 28 model his lowest price “home owner” model. I kind of wanted the next model up with hydraulic adjustable wedge but was just too much additional money and I find I don’t really miss it. So far it’s pushed 25 inch oak thru a 6 way wedge without slowing down. Very impressed with the speed and power of these splitters over anything I’ve used before.


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## SpaceBus (May 19, 2019)

pjohnson said:


> From my past experience using a log splitter with a lift it was the one thing I had to have. I did buy the Pro 28 model his lowest price “home owner” model. I kind of wanted the next model up with hydraulic adjustable wedge but was just too much additional money and I find I don’t really miss it. So far it’s pushed 25 inch oak thru a 6 way wedge without slowing down. Very impressed with the speed and power of these splitters over anything I’ve used before.



How is the portability? For my splitter I wanted the most portable and a Honda enfine, I think it worked for me. If there is a round too big for me to lift, I'll set it aside for the tractor to lift.


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## VirginiaIron (May 19, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> How is the portability? For my splitter I wanted the most portable and a Honda enfine, I think it worked for me. If there is a round too big for me to lift, I'll set it aside for the tractor to lift.


I used a tractor previously before my setup. I was always concerned about the tight quarters and becoming injured or trapped. And with a helper, I would have to be concerned about their mistakes with the clutch, loader etc, and my largest rounds weren't monstrous. For me, the lift has taken those concerns away and made splitting more pleasant, while opening up a whole new convenience to my wood splitting tasks. The portability is reduced in the sence moving the splitter cannot be accomplished with the craftsman mower on wet soil.


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## maple1 (May 19, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> How is the portability? For my splitter I wanted the most portable and a Honda enfine, I think it worked for me. If there is a round too big for me to lift, I'll set it aside for the tractor to lift.



Portability and being able to reposition easily by hand is huge for me also. I tow mine thru the trees right to the downed tree with my ATV.


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## pjohnson (May 19, 2019)

SpaceBus said:


> How is the portability? For my splitter I wanted the most portable and a Honda enfine, I think it worked for me. If there is a round too big for me to lift, I'll set it aside for the tractor to lift.


One thing I noticed right away is the Pro 28 model I have is almost perfectly balanced, you can pick up the tongue end very easy like maybe 10 pounds of lift. It rolls very easy on level hard ground. The tongue is also removable and can be installed on the other end, so you can split a pile of wood and pull the splitter away from it. It does weigh around 1300 pounds so your not gonna pull it up or down a hill, but I’ve got a tractor for moving it around.


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## Dune (May 26, 2019)

A quick word on super splitters.
Super Splitters will split any wood that can be split by an ax or maul. They will not split crotches and uglies.


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## paulnlee (Jun 5, 2019)

I have a Speeco 28 ton, ten years old that has been sitting covered in the pasture for 3 years. Got a load of rounds from local tree guy late last year so last week I decided to see if it would start. Cleared the mice nests and couldn't pull the starter. Took it apart, cleaned the rust, changed the magneto, plug and filter, added gas and the damn thing started right up. Split about a cord of oak & hickory today. Amazing


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## WiscWoody (Jun 19, 2019)

pjohnson said:


> I guess I started this thread a while back and kind of forgot about it. I ended up buying a splitter from a small local manufacture close to me called  Wolfe Ridge Mfg. He is a small business manufacturing splitters with USA components, makes a very nice line of splitters. Definitely not the cheapest option but one of the better splitters I've come across. They met all my criteria, USA made, fast cycle times, Honda engine, log lift, 4 and 6 way wedge. So far very happy with it makes a pile of wood in a hurry, can't think of anything I want to change or modify.


Wolfe Ridge Mfg is close to me too, I’m in Winter WI. 70 miles north of Eau Claire. Congratulations on getting a very nice splitter from them, they make nice stuff no doubt about it.


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## WiscWoody (Jun 19, 2019)

VirginiaIron said:


> I agree that formula is subjective. However, the costs per hour are justifyable, or not, to the user. If one purchases a $150k machine and you blow the engine or transmission out of warranty, one will realize, very quickly how much per hour that machine cost to run. Conversley, one could accurately say they have 3000 hours on a $30k machine and determine the machine cost per hour is $1 an hour - not including tires, batteries, fuel, etc.


I wander if you meant $10 an hour...? $30,000 divided by 3000= $10 an hour if I calculated it right in my head.


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## WiscWoody (Jun 19, 2019)

jaoneill said:


> 35 ton is nice for the once in 5 years that you might need the extra power but they tend to be slower. Tonnage is determined primarily by cylinder size and the high tonage, large cylinders take more oil volume (and many times higher pressure) that usually translates into slower cycle times, unless they are fed with a comparably larger pump which they seldom have. I have a 3 point hitch vertical unit that I built forty five years ago and much prefer it to the horizontal/vertical store bought one that I only use occasionally. I originally built the 3 pt unit with a 6" cylinder and it would literally split anything; it would cut directly through a sugar maple knot if the knot didn't split. About 25 years ago, to speed up the process, I replaced the 6" cylinder with a 4"; half the cycle time and rarely come across anything it won't split.
> The biggest advantages to the 3 pt vertical are twofold: 1 - you don't have to maintain another small engine and hydraulic system and, 2 - it is highly maneuverable. Simply back up to larger rounds, drop the splitter shoe to ground level and it takes a minimum of effort to jackass the round onto the splitter. I knock the larger rounds into manageable size pieces then raise the 3 pt until the shoe is at a comfortable working height and reduce the pieces to final size from a standing position.


My 37 ton 26" splitter is one second faster at 12 second cycle time than the 24" 22 ton unit I had. The pump on my 37 ton splitter is rated at 17gpm. I like the power of it, it has a sharp wedge and what it can’t split it cuts through. It is a horizontal/vertical splitter but for the really big rounds that I can’t lift I use my inverted skid steer splitter but not many here own a skid steer I know.


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## Bad LP (Jun 20, 2019)

Dune said:


> A quick word on super splitters.
> Super Splitters will split any wood that can be split by an ax or maul. They will not split crotches and uglies.



Really? I didn't get that memo.
Do you own one or are you just repeating what you read in the internet? I split crotches all the time but I don't stack my uglies but I do split them and toss aside for the fire pit.


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