# Chain and bar oil suggestions and comments please...



## WeldrDave (Jan 27, 2013)

Hello all, 
I would like to get your input on chain and bar oil, I have been using drain oil from oil changes from a  good friends auto repair shop for years. I throw some gear oil in when the mix is thin and it has been working fine. 

I feel not only I'm recycling but it's free!  My suggestion to all is if you have a local gas station or a service place, most of the time they have to pay to get rid of their used oil and all you have to do is ask for some.


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## Thistle (Jan 27, 2013)

This is a topic that has lots of heated discussion on both sides of the issue.Do what you want with older saws,but if I had a new saw still under warranty I would only use new bar & chain oil,just to CMA in case it ever did need  warranty work at local dealer.....


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## JustWood (Jan 27, 2013)

,,,,,,,,,,,,,, and we're off


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## WeldrDave (Jan 27, 2013)

Thistle said:


> This is a topic that has lots of heated discussion on both sides of the issue.Do what you want with older saws,but if I had a new saw still under warranty I would only use new bar & chain oil,just to CMA in case it ever did need warranty work at local dealer.....[/quote
> 
> So What could possibly go wrong as long as the bar and chain are Lubricated? I have spent many years in the engineering field and I can't understand why we are throwing away $$$ for something that is a out there for free. I have a 25 year old stihl still kicking a$$ and been using it since it was new. I do agree with you that if you have a saw under warranty you should follow the book verbatim but after that,  Save your Money$$$


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## perry (Jan 27, 2013)

your saw do what ever you want. i have put used oil in old saws i use for crappy cut jobs. TSC bar oil is good and only $8 a gal . i like my oil gooey with strings


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## MasterMech (Jan 28, 2013)

perry said:


> your saw do what ever you want. i have put used oil in old saws i use for crappy cut jobs. TSC bar oil is good and only $8 a gal . i like my oil gooey with strings


 
Yup. One thing drain oil lacks (amongst many) is the tack additive present in B&C oil. TSC sells it cheap. I've worked on a few saws that ran drain oil for bar lube. What a mess. Black residue all over the saw and usually gunks up the oil pump too. The bishops of the drain oil religion will tell you to filter it good before "recycling".



Dave USCG said:


> My suggestion to all is if you have a local gas station or a service place, most of the time they have to pay to get rid of their used oil and all you have to do is ask for some.​


 
I wouldn't use service station drain oil or any other source that I couldn't account for exactly what was in it. If you want to conserve oil and save the whales, stop changing the oil in your car every 3000 miles. 

The higher chainspeeds and engine RPMs (a lot higher) of todays saws are a big reason why mixing 30wt oil in your fuel (at 16:1 ,  ) and pouring 30wt in your bar oil resevour doesn't work well anymore. That and the fact that there are much better options available these days too.


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## WeldrDave (Jan 28, 2013)

This is Good advice, I have a new MS 250 I haven't even used yet, I did buy bar oil and from stihl, I just felt it wasn't worth the money considering the $$.


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## mywaynow (Jan 28, 2013)

I use half synthetic drain oil and half TSC bar oil.  The only thing I am considering different than that is canola oil  I hear from a few here that it works well.  I like the idea of a vegetable oil splattered around the cut site more than regular petro oil.


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## BobUrban (Jan 28, 2013)

Like most I like FREE stuff for sure but at 8-10$ a gallon and the distance a gal of bar oil goes it just seems to be an area I do not need to be trying to save money Vs. saving my saw.  To each there own but I run the real stuff - mostly winter blend and synthetic if I can find it even if it costs a little more and believe me, money is not growing on trees around here!!

Well.... It kind of is when I look at my wood stacks and think about the gas man!!


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## firefighterjake (Jan 28, 2013)

I use bar and chain oil . . . simply because I don't use that much of the stuff to find that it makes that much of a difference in savings.


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## WeldrDave (Jan 28, 2013)

Good stuff!, great to learn.... I just about fell over though when the stihl dealer told me what the bar oil cost. I think I paid $12.99 qt. I don't have a tractor supply close but gonna do some digging and may order on line, again I've had this saw now for about two months, "Christmas" and haven't used it, want to do the right thing. funny thing is, my old 021 just going to town!


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## BobUrban (Jan 28, 2013)

Bar oil is available at your local hardware or even the dreaded Wally World on the cheap and is ecentially all the same stuff in different packaging.  The bar oil has tack so it stays on the bar better than conventional oil.  Shop around and find the best price but seriously, unless you are cutting 8hrs a day for a living a gallon of oil is going to last a while so 3-5$ difference is not a big deal calculated out over the cords of wood it delivers.  I buy a gallon per season and always have some left over after cutting 10 cord(give or take)  I just like to have a full gallon back-up because running out of anything frustrates me. 

My only high grade cut off is the pre-mix super gas - that is too rich for my blood!!  I run high octane in all my toys with synthetic 2 stroke oil and I add Stabil to the gas cans before I head to the pump.


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## WeldrDave (Jan 28, 2013)

BobUrban said:


> Bar oil is available at your local hardware or even the dreaded Wally World on the cheap and is ecentially all the same stuff in different packaging. The bar oil has tack so it stays on the bar better than conventional oil. Shop around and find the best price but seriously, unless you are cutting 8hrs a day for a living a gallon of oil is going to last a while so 3-5$ difference is not a big deal calculated out over the cords of wood it delivers. I buy a gallon per season and always have some left over after cutting 10 cord(give or take) I just like to have a full gallon back-up because running out of anything frustrates me.
> 
> My only high grade cut off is the pre-mix super gas - that is too rich for my blood!! I run high octane in all my toys with synthetic 2 stroke oil and I add Stabil to the gas cans before I head to the pump.


 That is something I do not skimp with, only pennzoil air cooled 2 stoke oil and mid grade fuel, always in all my 2 stroke stuff....
I just called the local Ace hardware, they got bar oil "much cheaper" than Stihl...


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## Hawkeye (Jan 28, 2013)

I don't know about you guys but I've had poor luck with regular bar oil (especially the Stihl oil) when the weather gets cold.  It won't flow as well and I've smoked some chains (chains get hot, lose the temper, and dull quickly).  I've bought the seasonal "winter grade" bar oil but only had marginal better perfomance.  And I've used them all - old motor oil, Stihl oil, Husquvarna oil, generics........

With that - I tried synthetic (Amsoil).  A friend recommended it.  Since then, I have had such better performance I try not to use anything but the Amsoil.  Good stringy oil that flows well.  Especially for cold weather.  As for price - not much different. 

And it makes some sense - in the last few years we've switched all our hydraulic track equipment and locomotives (I work for a shortline railroad) to synthetic hydraulic fluid and gearbox oil for the same reasons - it performs well in cold weather compared to non-synthetic.  It has made our life much easier in the winter.


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## TreePointer (Jan 28, 2013)

I never had any trouble with Stihl winter grade oil in cold temperatures.

I've also never been involved with Amsoil multi-level marketing.


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## smokinj (Jan 28, 2013)

LEES WOOD-CO said:


> ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, and we're off


 
Pick a side and I will do my best to counter!


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## Halligan (Jan 28, 2013)

TSC oil. I just Bought 4 gallons on sale for $7.00 a gallon so I'm set for awhile. FWIW you can buy a gallon of Husqvarna @ TSC and Lowes for about $12.00 a gallon.


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## TreePointer (Jan 28, 2013)

I'm going to start drilling in my backyard so I can make my own oil.


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## loadstarken (Jan 28, 2013)

I wish we had a TSC out here!

I like to buy my oils and stuff from the local dealer to support the local guys.  Also the more they see you in there the more they'll recognize you and might help your chances to get a deal on your next saw purchase.

My saw its no longer under warranty so I buy my gas at an ethanol free station for my saw, yard equipment and my hobby truck.


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## TreePointer (Jan 28, 2013)

Lucky man. I don't live near any major boating areas, so there's no readily available non-ethanol gasoline here.


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## Hawkeye (Jan 28, 2013)

TreePointer said:


> I never had any trouble with Stihl winter grade oil in cold temperatures.
> 
> I've also never been involved with Amsoil multi-level marketing.


 
Yeah - I avoided the stuff when someone tried to sell it to me.  Didn't like their tactics.  But then my father-in-law gave me a quart (someone gave it to him and he doesn't cut wood) so I used it about 5 years ago in the winter.  I had just smoked a chain on stihl oil so I tried it (it was fairly cold - maybe 10?).  I was eating crow when the stuff worked.  I've used lots of other oil since but grab a gallon when I can.  I don't mess with their salesmen though - I buy it online.


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## loadstarken (Jan 28, 2013)

TreePointer said:


> Lucky man. I don't live near any major boating areas, so there's no readily available non-ethanol gasoline here.


Are any of these stations near you?
http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=PA


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## Jack Fate (Jan 28, 2013)

Rural King $6-7 a gal  Decent bar & chain oil 

                New  Bar & Chain $85  

                   Failure in the field  $ $ $ 

                          It' your time & money 

                                     Warranty mostly worthless   

                                                Cheers


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## TreePointer (Jan 28, 2013)

loadstarken said:


> Are any of these stations near you?
> http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=PA


 
Unfortunately, the closest one is 45 minutes there and another 45 minutes back, and it's in the opposite direction of any travels I normally make.


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## MasterMech (Jan 28, 2013)

Hawkeye said:


> With that - I tried synthetic (Amsoil). A friend recommended it. Since then, I have had such better performance I try not to use anything but the Amsoil. Good stringy oil that flows well. Especially for cold weather. As for price - not much different.


 
Finally, someone who's tried it.  Thanks for  posting your experience. Stuff ain't cheap tho.


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## blacktail (Jan 28, 2013)

Bar oil is cheap, I don't go through that much, and it protects a more expensive piece of equipment, so it's not a place I choose to skimp in my budget. Lowe's carries large jugs of cheap bar oil and it lasts me a looooong time.


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## BobUrban (Jan 29, 2013)

Not to highjack the thread and I am NOT a rep or network marketer or involved at all but...  Amsoil is the real deal and their products are good, expensive, but good.  An aquaintence of mine sells the stuff and he is into all things "easy money"!!  You know the dude 

But I will say that anything amsoil I have ever tried in anything showed evidence of great results.  I am not mechanic but when you go out to your car in below zerow weather and it starts up with a quick VROOM as if it was summer and does not go woop......wooop......woooop.......vroom to get going there is clearly oil moving - good stuff. 

Stuff may be voodoo medicine but when I see the temp guage running significantly lower after it is added/used there is something good going on in there.

Truth is oil has come a LONG way and the competition is stiff so there are many great synthetics available, not just amsoil.  I run synthetics in everything.

I also use Motorkote in all my equipment because I believe in it and the inventer is from Charlotte Michigan.  I have seen his tests and it shames any other "Super Lube" out there without doubt.  My 250,000G 16yr old, hard used Tahoe is my personal proof so I poor a little in my saw, quad, splitter and any other gas/oil engines now and then.  I like Seafoam too. 

I am a maintainence guy and just feel better if I have done the little stuff along the way.  For me it is like my personal competition with the thermostat - I feel like I am winning if my engines last, run good and never see the repair shop.  Run em like you stole em but maintain em like you paid retail!!


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## WeldrDave (Jan 29, 2013)

I didn't want to start any conflicts, but this is good stuff!, I'm glad to get everyones opinion, good learning experiences. I found a couple options, "no more drain oil" from what I've read. I guess I don't cut enough, maybe 5 cords a year, to have done much damage. I do take the bar off and file the edges and flip it. I gotta say I have ate up some chains though, and I don't want to mess up my new saw! Thanks very much to all....

Dave


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## hrhunter (Jan 29, 2013)

I have been using Poulan bar oil from Walmart with good results. It is about $10/gal.


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## Paulywalnut (Jan 29, 2013)

I like that thick oil also. It sticks on the chain and just seems to be doing something worthwhile.


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## Scols (Jan 30, 2013)

This thread is perfect timing. I have a Husky and have been using Husky bar oil exclusively. Yesterday while I was doing some bucking I ran out of bar oil, but the Husky dealer is 45 minutes away so I went to the local hardware store which deals with Stihl. The only bar oil in stock was Stihl Bio Plus which is vegetable oil based. Have any of you guys used this stuff? I havent opened it yet so I can either bring it back or give it to my dad since he has a Stihl if this stuff is no good for my saw.


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## charly (Jan 30, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> Finally, someone who's tried it. Thanks for posting your experience. Stuff ain't cheap tho.


I have used the amsoil bar oil as well,,, works great and seems to last.. Waste oil would also be diluted down with gas from cold starts as well,,, no thanks...20 dollars a year gets you a discount on all your amsoil products as well...I've ran their products for over 20 years in "Everything" I own,,, zero problems,,, 11 year old MS360 stihl still runs like new,  over 100 cords, original carb parts, fuel lines and fuel filter...I'll take that over a break down...


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## charly (Jan 30, 2013)

BobUrban said:


> Not to highjack the thread and I am NOT a rep or network marketer or involved at all but... Amsoil is the real deal and their products are good, expensive, but good. An aquaintence of mine sells the stuff and he is into all things "easy money"!! You know the dude
> 
> But I will say that anything amsoil I have ever tried in anything showed evidence of great results. I am not mechanic but when you go out to your car in below zerow weather and it starts up with a quick VROOM as if it was summer and does not go woop......wooop......woooop.......vroom to get going there is clearly oil moving - good stuff.
> 
> ...


I run sea Foam as well and agree with the Amsoil,,when it's below zero out,, and you can't plug something in,,, it still starts, plus your getting good film strength...I was a Harley Tech for 10 years for a dealer ,, went to Milwaukee for school , etc... The days of the 60 weight oil are over,,, it's simply all about film strength,,, the ability to maintain a film of oil between two metal parts.. That's why you are seeing lighter oils ran,, no need for the poor quality heavy stuff anymore, plus you get quick lubrication on start up... I met a guy who worked for the railroad, engine division,,, and also in the military in the turbine division...I mentioned I ran Amsoil in everything,,, he told me Amsoil is the only true 100% synthetic oil...the rest all have crude blends included.. I'll have to look at that Motorkote,,, Bob, same thing here,, no mechanical problems...proof is in the using...


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## bigbarf48 (Jan 30, 2013)

I just ran out of bar oil and have been using canola oil for a few days


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## MasterMech (Jan 31, 2013)

charly said:


> he told me Amsoil is the only true 100% synthetic oil...the rest all have crude blends included..​


 
AMSOIL isn't the only Group IV synthetic but your friend is correct in that most "synthetics" are simply highly refined petroleum products. (Group III oils) Group III oils aren't evil, in fact they can be quite good. But marketing would have you believe they're just as good as their Group IV counterparts.

FWIW: AMSOIL sells both Group III (the OE and XL products) and Group IV (Signature Series and other formulations) products.


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## MasterMech (Jan 31, 2013)

Scols said:


> This thread is perfect timing. I have a Husky and have been using Husky bar oil exclusively. Yesterday while I was doing some bucking I ran out of bar oil, but the Husky dealer is 45 minutes away so I went to the local hardware store which deals with Stihl. The only bar oil in stock was Stihl Bio Plus which is vegetable oil based. Have any of you guys used this stuff? I havent opened it yet so I can either bring it back or give it to my dad since he has a Stihl if this stuff is no good for my saw.


 I currently run it most of the time.  Been using it for the last 3 years or so.  It's not going to matter what brand of saw you pour it into, it's good oil.  Pours better at low temps (than regular bar oil) too.


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## charly (Jan 31, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> AMSOIL isn't the only Group IV synthetic but your friend is correct in that most "synthetics" are simply highly refined petroleum products. (Group III oils) Group III oils aren't evil, in fact they can be quite good. But marketing would have you believe they're just as good as their Group IV counterparts.
> 
> FWIW: AMSOIL sells both Group III (the OE and XL products) and Group IV (Signature Series and other formulations) products.


Thanks for the clarification,,,I've just always used their Series 3000 5w-30 diesel oil,, I run that one oil across the board in all my engines...best oil Amsoil makes...didn't want to have a bunch of different oils laying around....now if something needs oil I have it, usually buy it by the gallon or gallons,,, cheaper.


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## jdp1152 (Jan 31, 2013)

Dave USCG said:


> Good stuff!, great to learn.... I just about fell over though when the stihl dealer told me what the bar oil cost. I think I paid $12.99 qt. I don't have a tractor supply close but gonna do some digging and may order on line, again I've had this saw now for about two months, "Christmas" and haven't used it, want to do the right thing. funny thing is, my old 021 just going to town!


Not sure about saws, but I bought a Stihl weed eater at Ace and they extended the warranty if I bought a six pack of Stihl 50:1 mix.   Not the same as bar oil obviously but an interesting push.


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## MasterMech (Jan 31, 2013)

jdp1152 said:


> Not sure about saws, but I bought a Stihl weed eater at Ace and they extended the warranty if I bought a six pack of Stihl 50:1 mix. Not the same as bar oil obviously but an interesting push.


 
They've been doing that on everything registered for homeowner use.  Only thing that you can't get the warranty doubled on that way are the TS series demo saws and the big clearing saws (FS350+), items that are not marketed to homeowners.



charly said:


> Thanks for the clarification,,,I've just always used their Series 3000 5w-30 diesel oil,, I run that one oil across the board in all my engines...best oil Amsoil makes...didn't want to have a bunch of different oils laying around....now if something needs oil I have it, usually buy it by the gallon or gallons,,, cheaper.


 
Those "old" series 3000 oils are one of few that still have the old anti-wear additive packages (higher levels of ZDDP) and that's a good thing.  I keep Signature Series 5W30 and 0W30 around for the newer vehicles, and their 10W30 Small Engine oil which has that older additive spec that is very beneficial to engines that lack roller cam followers and the like.  My old '89 454 gets that stuff.


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## charly (Jan 31, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> They've been doing that on everything registered for homeowner use. Only thing that you can't get the warranty doubled on that way are the TS series demo saws and the big clearing saws (FS350+), items that are not marketed to homeowners.
> 
> 
> 
> Those "old" series 3000 oils are one of few that still have the old anti-wear additive packages (higher levels of ZDDP) and that's a good thing. I keep Signature Series 5W30 and 0W30 around for the newer vehicles, and their 10W30 Small Engine oil which has that older additive spec that is very beneficial to engines that lack roller cam followers and the like. My old '89 454 gets that stuff.


I see they make some nice Z rod oil for muscle cars and flat tappet cam followers..high zinc content...I did get the small engine 10w -30 for my snow blower and generator.. Bet that Z rod oil would work well in mowers as well...sorry about side tracking the thread!


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## KodiakII (Feb 1, 2013)

I figure I have a lot of money invested in saws and real estate.  Why would you want to run garbage through one, and fling toxic waste all over the other?  I have been running Stihl vegetable oil bar oil, thinned down with food grade synthetic when it gets really cold out.


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## osagebow (Feb 1, 2013)

KodiakII said:


> I figure I have a lot of money invested in saws and real estate. Why would you want to run garbage through one, and fling toxic waste all over the other? I have been running Stihl vegetable oil bar oil, thinned down with food grade synthetic when it gets really cold out.


 

Well said. It was in the teens today while I was cutting, tried canola for the first time, worked great. Thanks Thistle and others who have suggested it in the past. Have about a pint of regular petrol based left, probably gonna stick with Canola or that Stihl version. How is the Stihl different than straight Canola?


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## WeldrDave (Feb 1, 2013)

Thistle said:


> This is a topic that has lots of heated discussion on both sides of the issue.Do what you want with older saws,but if I had a new saw still under warranty I would only use new bar & chain oil,just to CMA in case it ever did need warranty work at local dealer.....


Thistle, I swatted a "BIG" hornets nest on this, didn't I... I'll admit I'm by far a pro at this and am a small time wood cutter compared to some of the big dogs out there, thought I was doing the right thing.....  but I see the error of my ways.


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## KaptJaq (Feb 1, 2013)

Drain oil is a carcinogenic until it is cleaned and refined for re-use. Don't need that stuff spraying around while I work. I use a brand name chain/bar oil. Keep it inside so it stays warm during the winter. The saw keeps it warm while I'm working. At less than $20 a gallon it's not worth the risk to use something else...

KaptJaq


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## JustWood (Feb 1, 2013)

KaptJaq said:


> Drain oil is a carcinogenic until it is cleaned and refined for re-use. Don't need that stuff spraying around while I work. I use a brand name chain/bar oil. Keep it inside so it stays warm during the winter. The saw keeps it warm while I'm working. At less than $20 a gallon it's not worth the risk to use something else...
> 
> KaptJaq


 
So is sawdust.


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## KaptJaq (Feb 1, 2013)

LEES WOOD-CO said:


> So is sawdust.


 
If I am working with wood I choose to be exposed to sawdust.  Cancers related to sawdust are mostly related to the respiratory track, the risks are low and can easily be reduced with a dust mask. 

I do not need to be exposed to used engine oil, the cancers it causes are skin and surface related, the risk is higher and not easily mitigated.  Since there are inexpensive alternatives that are probably better for the task I will use those.

KaptJaq


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## KodiakII (Feb 1, 2013)

osagebow said:


> Well said. It was in the teens today while I was cutting, tried canola for the first time, worked great. Thanks Thistle and others who have suggested it in the past. Have about a pint of regular petrol based left, probably gonna stick with Canola or that Stihl version. How is the Stihl different than straight Canola?


Don't know for certain, never tried straight Canola...worth a try though.


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## jdp1152 (Feb 2, 2013)

KaptJaq said:


> Drain oil is a carcinogenic until it is cleaned and refined for re-use. Don't need that stuff spraying around while I work. I use a brand name chain/bar oil. Keep it inside so it stays warm during the winter. The saw keeps it warm while I'm working. At less than $20 a gallon it's not worth the risk to use something else...
> 
> KaptJaq


 

Pump your breaks before spreading what equates to a forwarded email. Yes, in excessive exposure, it can cause cancer in some mice. While the human genome does share significant homology with mice, it's an awful indicator of reality. Every single drug that ever makes it to a clinical trial was effective against a rodent species yet somehow considerably less than 1% of all drugs discovered make it to approval. Some are toxic to humans but not mice. Some work in mice but have no effect on humans. So it seems that the shared homology isn't enough of a real indicator. The paws up test is nothing more than a hurdle with far greater hurdles to become 'truth'. People have been turning wrenches on automobiles since the model T came out. Plenty of time for significant trends to reveal themselves.....yet they haven't, at least none with used motor oil and human use. But hey, lets throw copious amounts of used motor oil on a hairless mouse and let the world believe that oil changing is hazardous to ones health. I'm not saying it doesn't cause cancer in humans, but based on studies, the reality is its no where near proven. I'm not trying to pick on you personally. I looked into this as a request of a family member because the better part of my life was spent in oncology and my wife is still in the field. You've probably got a better chance of getting cancer from red food coloring than used motor oil from a burden of proof standpoint. Enjoy your raspberry breakfast bar!

Edit:  Just adding that 2008 was the last year I actually looked into this for an uncle that spent his life in the industry and was diagnosed with an indolent leukemia.


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## KaptJaq (Feb 2, 2013)

jdp1152 said:


> Pump your breaks before spreading what equates to a forwarded email.


 
I guess I should have used the phrase "Is considered by some sources to be a ..." in my original post.
Sorry but that e-mail came from some, in my opinion, pretty good sources. I rather err on the side of caution. Bar oil is cheap and keeps my warranty in effect. Anybody that wants to spread used oil on their property or their heating fuel, please feel free to do so.

KaptJaq


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## WeldrDave (Feb 2, 2013)

Hello all, I'm listening and liking everyones point of view, this is very good stuff, and very important. I'll take the hit for being inconsiderate to mother nature and rightfully so for using used motor oil and will change what Ive been doing. I'm very earth conscience, especially around the water! I cannot stand  people who trash our waterways,. With that said, I cut maybe 5 to 6 cords a year. I started out with Stihl oil as per manual in my old 021, the dealer when I bought it said, "the sthil" bar oil is just 30w so you can get your self some motor oil and save some $. Now from what I'm reading, things and additives have changed and bar oil is more eco friendly. I'm also reading on various other sites, more and more about canola oil. In the past 20 years, I have "maybe" went through 4 gals of oil. I got a new saw, MS250 and wanted to see what everyones using, for now I'll use Stihl bar oil for the warranty. Whats ironic is I here people talk about various oils and how they act, in today's world most of the drain oil you get "is" synthetic. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has done this, There are very respectable people on this forum and I listen to all, I have been to other sites and it just seems like all the do is argue, and who has "BIGGER B@##s". Anyway, to agree with jpd1152 eating enough lettuce will give you cancer, some of you remember when they pumped a lab rat with the equelvilant 50lbs of saccaran a day, the poor thing got cancer. "well of course" he did! And for what is worth because I have "studied this extensively" the earth pukes barrels and barrels of oil to the surface from the ocean and land naturally and daily. Our first refineries were in Pennsylvania and found that way.
"NOW" i'm not saying lets add to it! that is wrong and irresponsible. With that said, I'm liking all this and especially finding a cleaner and "possibly cheaper" way of doing this, in turn want to keep my saw and chain in the best condition I can.
Again this is all good and we all can learn something out of everyones opinion!


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## charly (Feb 2, 2013)

I wonder has anyone left some canola oil outside below freezing temps to see what it looks like ..wondering if once in your oiler lines and the saw sits over night if you have a waxy sludge to deal with...I can remember using canola oil years ago when it was cold out , but I think I followed it through with regular bar oil after warming it up... I can tell you years ago when I was out at Harley Davidson service school,,, the one instructor in our engine class said to get the nicest finish final honing a cylinder,,, use vegetable oil...He said the only down fall was in a shop environment it had to be meticulously cleaned up or it would start to stink after a while...When I did line clearance around the power lines,, just the hydraulic oil lubed the stick saw chain that ran the bucket truck...and in a pinch I used that when it was cold in my saw as well.. Myself I'd rather not pollute, I like the Amsoil synthetic bar oil,, not made from crude and man made,,, does it still pollute? Just read that it is semi synthetic,, probably the tack factor that is added... Part of the MSDS info: Section 13: Disposal Considerations
If this product as supplied becomes a waste, it does not meet the criteria of a hazardous waste as defined
under the Resource Conservation and Recovery Act (RCRA) 40 CFR 261.


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## jdp1152 (Feb 2, 2013)

KaptJaq said:


> I guess I should have used the phrase "Is considered by some sources to be a ..." in my original post.
> Sorry but that e-mail came from some, in my opinion, pretty good sources. I rather err on the side of caution. Bar oil is cheap and keeps my warranty in effect. Anybody that wants to spread used oil on their property or their heating fuel, please feel free to do so.
> 
> KaptJaq


 

Fair enough.  Started my research career in an environmental lab analyzing soil and water samples from homes in northern Georgia.  GE was just burying PCB oils from old transformers all around various areas....even selling it to contractors/homeowners to put around their homes as termite barriers.  Crazy what was once allowed vs. now.

As to not hijack anything.  Like yourself, 12 bucks at my local shop for husky bar/chain oil (15 if you didn't buy your saw through them).  Cheap enough for peace of mind.


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## MasterMech (Feb 2, 2013)

jdp1152 said:


> GE was just burying PCB oils from old transformers all around various areas....even selling it to contractors/homeowners to put around their homes as termite barriers.


 
Or dumping it in the Hudson.   But they didn't know any better.


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## osagebow (Feb 2, 2013)

I am more concerned about needlessly putting the B/C oil into my stream drainage than the toxicity to humans, as we are kinda wedded to petrol from birth. The Shenandoah River is pretty beat up as it is, and right down the hill from me. Oil also can affect vulnerable aquifers, but I'm lucky to have a massive sandstone formation under my land and a 400ft+ deep well.


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## WeldrDave (Feb 2, 2013)

MasterMech said:


> Or dumping it in the Hudson.  But they didn't know any better.


Bu## Sh!T they didn't know any better! I'm not an expert at many things, but two of them I am, "Water and sailing involved" and metals! This is my job, Now I am still active duty but if you only knew what went into the ocean, you would be so Pi$$ed as I am for that.  Speaking of the Hudson, the only reason the hudson is dirty is politics and I'm not going any farther than that  I was an Instructor on such topics, and some of the water samples I have seen, compared to years back are much better my point is, we "the general public" are now aware of whats going on. 50 years back, no regulation or very little, no inspection, and no body cared till it became important.  I spoke with a gentleman who used to take samples of long island sound, in 1965 the water would nearly eat your skin off due to the lead, acid, and everything else dumped into the hudson, they  "The GOV" knew this was harmful but assumed it would go away.  NOT.... cant say any more.....


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## jdp1152 (Feb 2, 2013)

Dave USCG said:


> Bu## Sh!T they didn't know any better! I'm not an expert at many things, but two of them I am, "Water and sailing involved" and metals! This is my job, Now I am still active duty but if you only knew what went into the ocean, you would be so Pi$$ed as I am for that. Speaking of the Hudson, the only reason the hudson is dirty is politics and I'm not going any farther than that I was an Instructor on such topics, and some of the water samples I have seen, compared to years back are much better my point is, we "the general public" are now aware of whats going on. 50 years back, no regulation or very little, no inspection, and no body cared till it became important. I spoke with a gentleman who used to take samples of long island sound, in 1965 the water would nearly eat your skin off due to the lead, acid, and everything else dumped into the hudson, they "The GOV" knew this was harmful but assumed it would go away. NOT.... cant say any more.....


 
You'd be shocked at the allowance of radioactive material to be sent down a drain for a pharma company.  Sure...one company alone doesn't wash much down....but the Cambridge/Boston/Waltham area has something like 400+ companies not even counting the plethora of academic/non profit research facilities in the area.  I don't care what the half life is for acceptable substances....the fact that it's being measured in half lives is enough for me to not want it uncontained in the environment.


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## WeldrDave (Feb 2, 2013)

jdp1152 said:


> You'd be shocked at the allowance of radioactive material to be sent down a drain for a pharma company. Sure...one company alone doesn't wash much down....but the Cambridge/Boston/Waltham area has something like 400+ companies not even counting the plethora of academic/non profit research facilities in the area. I don't care what the half life is for acceptable substances....the fact that it's being measured in half lives is enough for me to not want it uncontained in the environment.


My Brother worked for a well known Pharma co in the Gloucester area, begins with a  "V" , I have a lot of family there dating back to 1700's Yea, I've heard stories!  I wonder if they make a good bar oil lube?


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