# Venting through concrete foundation



## lsirois (Oct 13, 2013)

I posted this question in a relatively lengthy post...never received an answer.  So I'm trying again...

I want to install a pellet furnace in the basement.  I have an empty flue, but the looks like the furnace would be slightly better off on the other side of the house seems...which would mean drilling a large hole through the concrete foundation.  How common/normal is that?  Would it be easy to patch/fill if I ever remove the stove?


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## reallyte (Oct 13, 2013)

Occam's razor. Avoid concrete because that's alot of work lol.


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## notch (Oct 13, 2013)

I don't think it's very common, mostly because as reallyte said it is hard work. I'll let others advise on the structural implications and considerations. But, if you have the height above grade to meet code, or can use a snorkel box to get the height, and it gets the stove where you really want it then do it. Patching the hole later shouldn't be too big a deal.


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## lsirois (Oct 13, 2013)

The problem seems to be the LP lines running along that wall near the sill and electrical.  That's why the "hole though concrete" became an option.  Plus, I'd have to go up once outside to meet clearances from an LP generator quick connect.


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## sinnian (Oct 13, 2013)

It is common, maybe not for pellet stoves, but many other applications.  You can hire someone, or you can rent a wet-bit core drill $150-$175 and do it yourself.  You will need to run water over it, so take that into consideration.  It will give you the fastest and cleanest cut.

Another way is to punch a bunch of drilled (small diameter) holes through and chip them out, provided there is no rebar in that location.  Labor intensive, and not as clean of a hole.


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## krooser (Oct 13, 2013)

here ya go...


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## P38X2 (Oct 13, 2013)

I'd pay someone and have it core drilled and KEEP the core for future very easy patching. I drilled mine with an SDS+ hammer drill and chipped the rest with chisels. Didn't hit any rebar but IT SUCKED. I repeat, IT SUCKED.


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## krooser (Oct 13, 2013)

I blew a hole thru an 8" concrete wall years ago for my septic drain... my contractor missed the proper grade so i did it by hand with a star drill... never again.


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## That's Right (Oct 13, 2013)

Just did it yesterday. Rented core bit and hammer drill. 4" hole through poured concrete.  Would have taken 10 minutes until rebar...cut rebar with sawzaw.  Not too bad really. Used a friend with a spray water bottle to cut down on dust.


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## DV (Oct 15, 2013)

That's Right said:


> Just did it yesterday. Rented core bit and hammer drill. 4" hole through poured concrete.  Would have taken 10 minutes until rebar...cut rebar with sawzaw.  Not too bad really. Used a friend with a spray water bottle to cut down on dust.


 Nice! I did the same but with a hammer drill. Did a circle pattern and chipped it all out. Was going great until I hit rebar with the hammer drill and almost broke my wrist. Anyway got it done and patched up and has been fine for 3 years.


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## Snowmobileaddict (Oct 15, 2013)

I did mine through my cinder block foundation.

It's a fast job.  I rented a makita sds hammer drill and core bit from Home Depot for 65 dollars.

The drilling took all of 2 mins.  The key is to check and recheck your measurement at least 4 times.  You only get one shot to place the hole on target!  Patching would be easy as well.

I have about 4.5 cinder blocks of exposure on that side of my house so it was a easier install to have the vent come off the stove, go up 60" inches and out through the wall just below the rim joist of the house.  I'll see if I can find a photo of the inside and outside.


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## brenndatomu (Oct 15, 2013)

Just go to your local tool rental place, rent a core drill and the appropriate size masonry drill bit and hammer drill (to attach the core drill to the wall). You'll have a "factory" looking hole in no time! Just make sure that there is no conduits or the like buried in the wall. That wouldn't be so common in residential though, conduit in the wall is normally more of a commercial/industrial building issue.

Edit: The above would be for a poured concrete wall, if you have a block wall then just as mentioned by others, a hammer drill with a masonry bit is all you need.


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## Snowmobileaddict (Oct 15, 2013)

Outside view - I know, shame on me for a 12" length of PVC in my oak....been meaning to get a short piece of galvanized.


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## P38X2 (Oct 15, 2013)

Snomobileaddict, doesn't your setup get buried in snow?


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## Snowmobileaddict (Oct 15, 2013)

P38X2 said:


> Snomobileaddict, doesn't your setup get buried in snow?



Nope, not at all.  We have a significant windbreak (lots of trees) on that side of the house that you can't see.  The snow is never more than a trace or so as far out as 6-7' feet from the foundation on that side.

Plus, I made sure to comply with minimum height above grade required in the manufacturers literature.


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## P38X2 (Oct 15, 2013)

Nice


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## Big E (Oct 15, 2013)

Very nice setup


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## saladdin (Oct 16, 2013)

Snowmobileaddict said:


> Outside view - I know, shame on me for a 12" length of PVC in my oak....been meaning to get a short piece of galvanized.


 
There you are. I just call you "Guy with a fenced in stove." I couldn't find the last pic of it you posted when some friends asked about kid protection.


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## Bioburner (Oct 16, 2013)

Nice install. Get a good surge suppressor or UPS to protect the electronics.


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## Snowmobileaddict (Oct 16, 2013)

Bioburner said:


> Nice install. Get a good surge suppressor or UPS to protect the electronics.


 
Ha!
Good one, that is an old photo not showing my protector.


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## DV (Oct 17, 2013)

Snowmobileaddict said:


> Outside view - I know, shame on me for a 12" length of PVC in my oak....been meaning to get a short piece of galvanized.


Very nice. So that OAK goes up inside the studs of the wall and then outside? Is it all steel piping inside the wall?


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## briansol (Oct 17, 2013)

I'm curious how placement of a furnace matters at all?  if you're attaching to venting anyway, it doesn't matter where the unit is....  put it up the flue.


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## Snowmobileaddict (Oct 17, 2013)

DV said:


> Very nice. So that OAK goes up inside the studs of the wall and then outside? Is it all steel piping inside the wall?


 
Yes, up the stud cavity, through top plate and out through the rim joist and vinyl siding.  All galvanized 2" pipe.  I had access to a bunch for free so I wene with it.  Just didnty have enough for he last leg hanging out side the house.


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## Firemedic16 (Oct 17, 2013)

I used a hammer drill and 6" core bit. All rented of course.


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## DV (Oct 18, 2013)

Snowmobileaddict said:


> Yes, up the stud cavity, through top plate and out through the rim joist and vinyl siding.  All galvanized 2" pipe.  I had access to a bunch for free so I wene with it.  Just didnty have enough for he last leg hanging out side the house.


 Is basement wall insulated? If so did you run OAK inside or outside of the insulation? Thanks.


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## Snowmobileaddict (Oct 18, 2013)

Yes, all walls are kraft faced fibergalss insualtion.  The OAK pipe is situated on the the "cold side" of the isulation.  It is between the cinderblock and the insulation.


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