# Help diagnosing problem on Astria Aries Direct Vent fireplace



## Maverick9876 (Nov 30, 2021)

I have an Astria Aries Direct Vent fireplace. The spark ignitor sparks when I turn on the switch, but the pilot doesn't light.  I have tried to purge the air from the line without resolution. Also, no smells of gas anywhere, but I know the gas in my house is working since it is working on the stove/oven. I suspect a gas valve problem or potentially a block in a gas line.   My valve is pictured below.  When I removed the orange wire and checked the voltage across the line when the spark ignitor was on, I got erratic readings bouncing between 1.3 - 4 V DC and it went to zero when the ignitor stopped sparking. When I had the orange wire plugged in, I measured at the metal where the orange wire connects and on the base of the fireplace and got voltage readings bouncing between 3 - 29 V DC when the ignitor was sparking and going to zero when it stopped. Have I measured the voltage correctly? Are these the readings I should expect? What other diagnostics would you recommend?  What would I expect with a bad valve versus an obstructed gas line?


----------



## DAKSY (Dec 1, 2021)

If you break open the brass fitting on the left side of the valve,
do you hear/smell gas? If not, then the problem is in that gas line. 
If you do, then there may be a blockage in the pilot gas line.


----------



## Maverick9876 (Dec 1, 2021)

DAKSY - Thank you so much for your reply.  Is it correct to assume by your recommendation that you believe the gas valve is functioning properly because of the voltage readings or did I misinterpret?  I'll check on the line to determine if there is a blockage before or after the valve.  Thank you again!


----------



## DAKSY (Dec 1, 2021)

Maverick9876 said:


> DAKSY - Thank you so much for your reply.  Is it correct to assume by your recommendation that you believe the gas valve is functioning properly because of the voltage readings or did I misinterpret?  I'll check on the line to determine if there is a blockage before or after the valve.  Thank you again!


I am not sure of what readings you should have, because I am not familiar with your unit. 
I have been in the industry since 2000 & have only seen TWO bad gas valves. 
Make sure you're getting gas TO the valve. 
Once that's established, there are ways to see if gas is going THRU the valve.


----------



## Maverick9876 (Dec 1, 2021)

Thank you very much!  That is good info to calibrate us on the probability of a broken valve!  I've checked that gas is getting to the valve.  How should I check if it's going through the valve?  Thanks again.


----------



## DAKSY (Dec 1, 2021)

There are 2 brass screws on the face of your valve.
Is one of them labeled "OUT" or MANIFOLD?"


----------



## Maverick9876 (Dec 2, 2021)

DAKSY - Thank you!  Yes, there are 3 brass screws - The one circled in blue is labeled OUT, the one circled in purple isn't labeled, and the one in circled in red is labeled ADJ.


----------



## DAKSY (Dec 2, 2021)

I f you loosen the "out" screw, do you hear/smell gas?


----------



## Maverick9876 (Dec 6, 2021)

DAKSY, we turned the brass screwed 3 revolutions counterclockwise.  We didn't hear/smell gas.  What do you think?


----------



## Fingerlakes Fireplace (Dec 7, 2021)

Maverick9876 said:


> DAKSY - Thank you!  Yes, there are 3 brass screws - The one circled in blue is labeled OUT, the one circled in purple isn't labeled, and the one in circled in red is labeled ADJ.
> 
> View attachment 286864


It is actually the one that is labeled IN. (The purple one)Loosen that one, and listen for the hissing to verify you have gas pressure at the valve.


----------



## Maverick9876 (Dec 11, 2021)

Yes, when I loosen the IN screw I both hear and smell the gas.  What does that tell us?  What is the next step?


----------



## Lennox65 (Dec 12, 2021)

Maverick9876 said:


> Yes, when I loosen the IN screw I both hear and smell the gas.  What does that tell us?  What is the next step?


That tells you that you are getting gas to the valve.
Do you see the spark at the pilot assembly when you try to turn on the fireplace? If you have gas coming into the valve, and the igniter is sparking , then you should be getting gas at the pilot. You could have a blockage in the pilot line, or a clogged pilot orifice.


----------



## Maverick9876 (Dec 12, 2021)

There is a spark at the pilot light assembly.  However, when I turn the gas on, there is no gas making it to the ignitor.  When I take off the 2 gas lines to the right of the valve (one going to the burner, one going to the ignitor) neither are clogged as I can feel air that I blow through it coming out with reasonable force on the other side.  Does this lead you to believe that the problem is the gas valve or are there other things that you think I should look in to?  If this narrows down the problem to the gas valve, where do you recommend purchasing a new one?


----------



## Lennox65 (Dec 13, 2021)

Maverick9876 said:


> There is a spark at the pilot light assembly.  However, when I turn the gas on, there is no gas making it to the ignitor.  When I take off the 2 gas lines to the right of the valve (one going to the burner, one going to the ignitor) neither are clogged as I can feel air that I blow through it coming out with reasonable force on the other side.  Does this lead you to believe that the problem is the gas valve or are there other things that you think I should look in to?  If this narrows down the problem to the gas valve, where do you recommend purchasing a new one?


Do you have gas coming out of the valve at the pilot line?


----------



## Maverick9876 (Dec 13, 2021)

Lennox65 - I don't think that there is gas coming out of the pilot line.  I took it off and blew air through it to check for a blockage.  There was no blockage detected.  After cleaning all the lines and turning the fireplace back on - the spark continue to try to ignite but there are no signs of gas coming out of the pilot line or the burner.  (no smell, no ignitor as a result of the spark, no sound except the spark).  Please let me know if there is something else you think I should do to determine if gas is coming out.  

Since I have gas going into the valve, the lines out of the valve are free of blockages, and the spark ignitor is sparking, is it correct to diagnose a gas valve problem?  What else would you consider for diagnosis?


----------



## Lennox65 (Dec 14, 2021)

Maverick9876 said:


> Lennox65 - I don't think that there is gas coming out of the pilot line.  I took it off and blew air through it to check for a blockage.  There was no blockage detected.  After cleaning all the lines and turning the fireplace back on - the spark continue to try to ignite but there are no signs of gas coming out of the pilot line or the burner.  (no smell, no ignitor as a result of the spark, no sound except the spark).  Please let me know if there is something else you think I should do to determine if gas is coming out.
> 
> Since I have gas going into the valve, the lines out of the valve are free of blockages, and the spark ignitor is sparking, is it correct to diagnose a gas valve problem?  What else would you consider for diagnosis?


I usually check for gas at the pilot hood by taking the glass off and using a grill lighter right at the pilot hood while the ignitor is sparking. 
Sometimes the valves get stuck closed and tapping on the regulator opens them up.( although this usually happens on the main burner side)
I have also used 6 volts to open a stuck IPI valve.


----------



## Maverick9876 (Dec 15, 2021)

Thank you for the help!  No, I'm not getting gas at the pilot hood, unfortunately.  

Can you please let me know what part the regulator is?  Also, can you please help me understand the 6V to open a stuck IPI valve?  Is the IPI and the gas valve the same?  How do you use 6V?  Sorry - as a novice, it's not yet clear to me!  Thank you again.


----------



## Lennox65 (Dec 16, 2021)

Maverick9876 said:


> Thank you for the help!  No, I'm not getting gas at the pilot hood, unfortunately.
> 
> Can you please let me know what part the regulator is?  Also, can you please help me understand the 6V to open a stuck IPI valve?  Is the IPI and the gas valve the same?  How do you use 6V?  Sorry - as a novice, it's not yet clear to me!  Thank you again.


On your valve the regulator is the round piece on the face of the valve that has the green wire attached to the green plastic block.

IPI stands for Intermittent Pilot Ignition. https://www.chimneyworksonline.com/how-electronic-ignition-ipi-fireplaces-work/

The valve uses a small amount of voltage to open the pilot and allow gas to flow through the valve to the pilot hood. The amount varies but it is usually less than 3 volts. If you look at the link above, you will see a backup battery tray in the wiring schematic.
I have a spare one of these that I use for troubleshooting. With 4 batteries in the tray, I put one of the leads on the male spade connector on the valve,( in this case it would be the one that the orange pilot wire is connected to) and the other one is held against the valve body to provide ground. Then use the switch, or remote to start the fireplace.


----------



## Maverick9876 (Dec 18, 2021)

Lennox65 - thank you so much for the idea.  We got the opportunity to do all of these things today - we checked for gas at the pilot hood with a grill lighter, we tapped on the regulator, and we sent 4 - 9V through the valve as you described and then tried to relight each time.  Unfortunately, no luck on any of these.  Any other ideas?  Do you think I should buy a new valve?


----------



## Lennox65 (Dec 19, 2021)

Maverick9876 said:


> Lennox65 - thank you so much for the idea.  We got the opportunity to do all of these things today - we checked for gas at the pilot hood with a grill lighter, we tapped on the regulator, and we sent 4 - 9V through the valve as you described and then tried to relight each time.  Unfortunately, no luck on any of these.  Any other ideas?  Do you think I should buy a new valve?


I am not familiar with your model of fireplace or that particular valve but it seems as if you may have exhausted all of the troubleshooting steps and a new valve may be the only answer.


----------



## Maverick9876 (Dec 19, 2021)

Thank you.


----------



## Maverick9876 (Dec 22, 2021)

I got the new valve and installed it today.  Thankfully, it solved the problem.  I really appreciate the help on this forum performing the diagnostics to determine whether the valve was at fault before purchasing it.  Determining that gas was getting to the valve, but not through the valve was key.  Also key was ensuring that the lines were not clogged.  Finally, trying to open the valve (sadly unsuccessfully) to see if it were stuck closed was important to the decision to replace the valve.  I'm not sure what factors cause a valve to fail and/or preventative measure.  If actuating the valve throughout the year helps it (and I'm not sure I adequately understand why these valves fail), one may want to ensure that you turn on the fireplace in warmer months, when you wouldn't otherwise.


----------



## Angelyque (Nov 9, 2022)

Maverick9876 said:


> I got the new valve and installed it today.  Thankfully, it solved the problem.  I really appreciate the help on this forum performing the diagnostics to determine whether the valve was at fault before purchasing it.  Determining that gas was getting to the valve, but not through the valve was key.  Also key was ensuring that the lines were not clogged.  Finally, trying to open the valve (sadly unsuccessfully) to see if it were stuck closed was important to the decision to replace the valve.  I'm not sure what factors cause a valve to fail and/or preventative measure.  If actuating the valve throughout the year helps it (and I'm not sure I adequately understand why these valves fail), one may want to ensure that you turn on the fireplace in warmer months, when you wouldn't otherwise.


Hey quick question, do you by chance remember the model number for your valve?


----------

