# Seasoning Oak



## ambull01 (Nov 18, 2014)

I'm about to stock up on some oak in preparation for next year. I keep reading on this site about having to season oak for 2-3 years. Is this true!? If I have to season it for that long I may as well forget about oak. I don't have the space in my yard to accumulate 3+ years worth of oak plus work on firewood for next year. 

On another site I've been reading they say oak only needs about a year or so for MC to drop below 20%. What makes oak take so long to season? If it's because it's a hardwood, why don't all hardwoods take as long?


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## BrotherBart (Nov 18, 2014)

I have burned it after a year and it is a real pain and waste of BTUs keeping it burning. Two years minimum top covered in the sun and wind. I got a shock last season when some oak wasn't playing nice and I opened the door and heard the first wood hissing I had heard in years. And that stuff was over three years on the stacks.


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## ambull01 (Nov 18, 2014)

Wow. So oak holds more moisture than other hardwoods? I think I may skip oak and look for other hardwoods. I have to find the BTU chart again to compare.


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## AnalogKid (Nov 18, 2014)

I'm not sure it holds more (it may?) but it's just incredibly dense and holds onto the moisture it does have, a long time.  It is nice to burn, but I'm in the camp that its seasoning time makes it a little less desirable than other species, for me personally. 

Don't get me wrong, if I happen across some I take it with open arms.  In fact I have about 3/4 of a cord that I will burn this year, and another 1/2 cord that will be ready for next year.  I just don't have the time or space to be 2-3 years ahead on oak plus all the other wood I would need to process to have to burn while I wait for the oak to season.


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## xman23 (Nov 18, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> Wow. So oak holds more moisture than other hardwoods? I think I may skip oak and look for other hardwoods. I have to find the BTU chart again to compare.


Don't pass it up. One of the finest burning woods out there. Almost all my wood is oak. I burn 3-4 year old wood.


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## AnalogKid (Nov 18, 2014)

xman23 said:


> Don't pass it up. One of the finest burning woods out there. Almost all my wood is oak. I burn 3-4 year old wood.



Yeah, definitely don't pass it up....haha.


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## Husky (Nov 18, 2014)

I've burned red oak for many years. I find that if I let it season for 16 months I'm good to go. Best burning wood, burns long and leave a great coal bed. I do leave it in a place that stays dry and get good air movement.


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## EatenByLimestone (Nov 18, 2014)

If you find a split in your stack set it aside.  Sneak up on the seasoning time that it takes by just putting it in its own stack.  Burn it when it gets real cold and the super dense wood can be appreciated.  Splitting into small splits will make it season faster.


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## TomatoLover (Nov 18, 2014)

EatenByLimestone said:


> If you find a split in your stack set it aside.  Sneak up on the seasoning time that it takes by just putting it in its own stack.  Burn it when it gets real cold and the super dense wood can be appreciated.  Splitting into small splits will make it season faster.



This might be a dumb question, but I'm new to this, so keep that in mind.  When you split oak into smaller splits, does it decrease its value in terms of burn times and coal beds?  I thought I read somewhere that while smaller splits will quicken the seasoning time, it decreases the value of what gives oak its good name.  Is there any truth to that?


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## 2PistolPacker (Nov 18, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> Wow. So oak holds more moisture than other hardwoods? I think I may skip oak and look for other hardwoods. I have to find the BTU chart again to compare.


I have been selling firewood for over 10 years and I split my wood thin so it will dry quickly. Now with the new epa stoves and how they burn so hot so quickly I'm going to stop splitting so thin and just let the large splits dry longer. I split 3 cords of oak 17 months ago, I split most of it less than 2.5 inches thick the rest is in 6 x 8 inch logs. The 2.5 inch thick wood is at about 18% mc, I split several 6 x 8 inch pieces in half to test and they were at 25% mc. I also tested large pieces of maple, pine, walnut and mulberry all split at the same time as the oak and they average 17% mc. If you want large splits to be ready in one year don't get oak or hedge.  I split 4 plus cords of locust several weeks ago, the trees had been dead for at least 3 years and the trunk wood mc was still above 30%, the limb wood is less than 20%. I knew the locust was old because it didn't stink like hell, in fact it smells almost pleasant.


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## ambull01 (Nov 18, 2014)

xman23 said:


> Don't pass it up. One of the finest burning woods out there. Almost all my wood is oak. I burn 3-4 year old wood.



You must have a giant yard.


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## EatenByLimestone (Nov 18, 2014)

TomatoLover said:


> This might be a dumb question, but I'm new to this, so keep that in mind.  When you split oak into smaller splits, does it decrease its value in terms of burn times and coal beds?  I thought I read somewhere that while smaller splits will quicken the seasoning time, it decreases the value of what gives oak its good name.  Is there any truth to that?



Smaller splits have a larger surface area so they will burn faster.  You will still get the full amount of BTUs out of it though.  This will probably reduce coaling also, which can be preferable on very cold nights when you have to push the stove a bit.  Many find themselves with too many coals and too little heat coming out.  The only alternative canbe to shovel the coals out so there is room for fresh wood.


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## ambull01 (Nov 18, 2014)

Husky said:


> View attachment 144814
> View attachment 144812
> 
> I've burned red oak for many years. I find that if I let it season for 16 months I'm good to go. Best burning wood, burns long and leave a great coal bed. I do leave it in a place that stays dry and get good air movement.



Do you test the MC? Not sure how red oak compares to white oak which is what I've been splitting. I split them real small to help season faster but I may have made them too little. Probably drastically cut down on the burn times which is what oak is good for, from what I've read. Guess the best thing to do is make various size splits.


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## ambull01 (Nov 18, 2014)

2PistolPacker said:


> I have been selling firewood for over 10 years and I split my wood thin so it will dry quickly. Now with the new epa stoves and how they burn so hot so quickly I'm going to stop splitting so thin and just let the large splits dry longer. I split 3 cords of oak 17 months ago, I split most of it less than 2.5 inches thick the rest is in 6 x 8 inch logs. The 2.5 inch thick wood is at about 18% mc, I split several 6 x 8 inch pieces in half to test and they were at 25% mc. I also tested large pieces of maple, pine, walnut and mulberry all split at the same time as the oak and they average 17% mc. If you want large splits to be ready in one year don't get oak or hedge.  I split 4 plus cords of locust several weeks ago, the trees had been dead for at least 3 years and the trunk wood mc was still above 30%, the limb wood is less than 20%. I knew the locust was old because it didn't stink like hell, in fact it smells almost pleasant.



This really puts a lot of doubt in my mind on all the "seasoned oak" ads I see. How can everyone possibly have so much oak that's seasoned for 2-3 years?


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## EatenByLimestone (Nov 18, 2014)

Bingo!   Often they think a tree that has been cut down and the trunk is lying in the mud is seasoning.

It is possible that they have a kiln and can dry it, but that's probably not the case.




ambull01 said:


> This really puts a lot of doubt in my mind on all the "seasoned oak" ads I see. How can everyone possibly have so much oak that's seasoned for 2-3 years?


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## Retreadsme (Nov 18, 2014)

I'm like almost everyone else .... oak spends a minimum of two years in the outside stacks and 1 yr inside stacked before I can burn it well and often times it ends up needing to stay inside 2 yrs.   Where you live makes a difference when curing hardwoods also.   Down here in the Delta, nothing dries quickly until winter.   oh wait .... that's when it's frozen!   Like everyone else said - don't pass on it though!   About the only thing that requires less than 3 yrs to cure here is sycamore and willow.   Of course ya might as well burn balsa wood if willow is a choice.


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## Osagebndr (Nov 18, 2014)

I Stack hard to cure wood by itself like locust and oak can't bring myself to burn Osage as I like it for bow wood, anyway stack it in the spot that's gets the most sun maybe it'll work that's what I'm hoping for but if it don't  it don't


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## ambull01 (Nov 18, 2014)

Retreadsme said:


> I'm like almost everyone else .... oak spends a minimum of two years in the outside stacks and 1 yr inside stacked before I can burn it well and often times it ends up needing to stay inside 2 yrs.   Where you live makes a difference when curing hardwoods also.   Down here in the Delta, nothing dries quickly until winter.   oh wait .... that's when it's frozen!   Like everyone else said - don't pass on it though!   About the only thing that requires less than 3 yrs to cure here is sycamore and willow.   Of course ya might as well burn balsa wood if willow is a choice.



That's insane! So worse case scenario you have to wait 4 years to burn oak. No. Way. I think I'll just hunt for pine and let everyone fight for the decade to season oak. I'll sleep in the insert room to feed it.


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## cableman (Nov 18, 2014)

My oak was dwn for months then split for a year, MC reads under 20%, i split around 3x4 splits. Sometimes you just gotta deal with what you can get! Burns good so far


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## drewberry24 (Nov 18, 2014)

By no means am I doubting the 3 year seasoning process, but I am burning white and red oak that fell during Sandy in November of 2012.  I cut, split, and stacked it at the beginning of this year and it is reading 18-21% on the mm.  It is burning great right now, of course I'm sure it will burn even better next year but I am lucky for what I have for my second year of burning.  

I guess my point is that depending on the circumstances you may be able to get some oak ready to burn a little sooner than 3 years.


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## ambull01 (Nov 18, 2014)

I can live with those drying times. I'll do a little experiment. Split some oak in a couple different sizes. Do a MC reading periodically and see how long it takes to get to 20%.


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## williemon (Nov 18, 2014)

I have the same issue. In my other house, it had a standard prefab fireplace. It was a small house so I could heat for the day and part of a night but it got cold fast. I could use oak that seasoned for at least 10 months but no less. In my newer home with a northstar, I need two year oak, and somethimes thats iffy. 
I started burning pine now cause its plentyful and easy to dry.


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## Phoenix Hatchling (Nov 18, 2014)

2PistolPacker said:


> I have been selling firewood for over 10 years and I split my wood thin so it will dry quickly. Now with the new epa stoves and how they burn so hot so quickly I'm going to stop splitting so thin and just let the large splits dry longer. I split 3 cords of oak 17 months ago, I split most of it less than 2.5 inches thick the rest is in 6 x 8 inch logs. The 2.5 inch thick wood is at about 18% mc, I split several 6 x 8 inch pieces in half to test and they were at 25% mc. I also tested large pieces of maple, pine, walnut and mulberry all split at the same time as the oak and they average 17% mc. If you want large splits to be ready in one year don't get oak or hedge.  I split 4 plus cords of locust several weeks ago, the trees had been dead for at least 3 years and the trunk wood mc was still above 30%, the limb wood is less than 20%. I knew the locust was old because it didn't stink like hell, in fact it smells almost pleasant.



I have black locust that was down for 26 years. My guys cut it to 12 inch lengths and split it last year. I'm burning it now, and it could STILL go another year or so, and it does still smell like crap! Real putrid stuff but burns hotter than you can stand!


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## ambull01 (Nov 18, 2014)

Phoenix Hatchling said:


> I have black locust that was down for 26 years. My guys cut it to 12 inch lengths and split it last year. I'm burning it now, and it could STILL go another year or so, and it does still smell like crap! Real putrid stuff but burns hotter than you can stand!



26 years? I can scratch black locust off my scrounge list too.


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## ambull01 (Nov 18, 2014)

williemon said:


> I have the same issue. In my other house, it had a standard prefab fireplace. It was a small house so I could heat for the day and part of a night but it got cold fast. I could use oak that seasoned for at least 10 months but no less. In my newer home with a northstar, I need two year oak, and somethimes thats iffy.
> I started burning pine now cause its plentyful and easy to dry.



Yep it's starting to look like pine will become my friend. Helps that a lot of people think you can't burn pine too. Should be easy to get.


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## DougA (Nov 18, 2014)

Have to agree that small splits will dry 1 year faster.  They also will burn faster but yes, you get the same BTU.


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## ambull01 (Nov 18, 2014)

DougA said:


> Have to agree that small splits will dry 1 year faster.  They also will burn faster but yes, you get the same BTU.



I have a really dumb question. Lets say I split oak really small to aide in drying time. In 1 year it gets to 20% MC or less. Is it possibly to then nail/screw two pieces of oak together to increase burn time? Sorry if that was the dumbest question you've seen on this site lol


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## BrotherBart (Nov 18, 2014)

Not the dumbest, but the first time I have seen it. Split them six inches or so and supplement the burn with small stuff, pallet wood or manufactured burning bricks. The critical part of the burn is the first hour when something needs to be driving the latent moisture out of the splits.


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## Renjilj (Nov 18, 2014)

drewberry24 said:


> By no means am I doubting the 3 year seasoning process, but I am burning white and red oak that fell during Sandy in November of 2012.  I cut, split, and stacked it at the beginning of this year and it is reading 18-21% on the mm.  It is burning great right now, of course I'm sure it will burn even better next year but I am lucky for what I have for my second year of burning.
> 
> I guess my point is that depending on the circumstances you may be able to get some oak ready to burn a little sooner than 3 years.


+1. I felled about 4-5 cord Red Oak last summer and cut to length last fall. Split early this spring and cross stacked all of it to ensure max air flow. Stack was covered. Splits smaller at 2-4" x16-18"long. Have measured from 20-28% on various pieces. It starts and burns well and is mixed with drier stuff usually. Lots of heat and minimal coals. Also, getting 8-10 hours or more on burns so the smalls not affecting too much. Obviously drier is better so really looking forward to next year, but working fine this year. Got another 8 cord split and drying for years 2 and 3


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## ambull01 (Nov 18, 2014)

BrotherBart said:


> Not the dumbest, but the first time I have seen it. Split them six inches or so and supplement the burn with small stuff, pallet wood or manufactured burning bricks. The critical part of the burn is the first hour when something needs to be driving the latent moisture out of the splits.



So I'm guess my stupid idea wouldn't work? lol

Hey where did you find those older Poulans? I really want one! Too many people have Stihls and Husqvarnas. I want to be a little original and rock a old school Poulan before they turned into crappy saws.


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## ambull01 (Nov 18, 2014)

Renjilj said:


> +1. I felled about 4-5 cord Red Oak last summer and cut to length last fall. Split early this spring and cross stacked all of it to ensure max air flow. Stack was covered. Splits smaller at 2-4" x16-18"long. Have measured from 20-28% on various pieces. It starts and burns well and is mixed with drier stuff usually. Lots of heat and minimal coals. Also, getting 8-10 hours or more on burns so the smalls not affecting too much. Obviously drier is better so really looking forward to next year, but working fine this year. Got another 8 cord split and drying for years 2 and 3



Minimal coals? I thought that was a bad thing. Or are you getting minimal coals because the splits are so small? I would think having coals would be a good thing for reloading.


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## BrotherBart (Nov 18, 2014)

Sucker weighs 23 pounds. Old shoulders can't take it anymore. Talk money to me. Old Yaller can be yours. Yes, I started it and cut with it last week. If you have a car that needs ripping in half, it can be yours.


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## ambull01 (Nov 18, 2014)

BrotherBart said:


> Sucker weighs 23 pounds. Old shoulders can't take it anymore. Talk money to me. Old Yaller can be yours. Yes, I started it and cut with it last week. If you have a car that needs ripping in half, it can be yours.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 144874



Nice! Umm, why does it weight 23 pounds? Was your foot on the scale too? 

Is that the 65cc model? I would say a price but that would be kind of stupid. I don't know much about these older Poulans, just know I want one bad. Probably be best if you start the bid.


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## BrotherBart (Nov 18, 2014)

Nah. It doesn't take up much space. Only reason I mentioned it was you are close and I won't ship it and then have some fool not pull the rope twice till if pops and then close the choke and have it start on the next pull and want their money and shipping back.

Easier just to put it in the will. Sometimes just start it in the yard to listen to it. Three years ago a storm blew down a bunch of trees. I listened until around noon to lil saws running like buzzing bees in the neighborhood. Finally got tired of it and threw Old Yaller in the back of the Suburban and drove down the hill. Bunch of guys trying to cut a tree dropped over my neighbor's driveway with their lil Stihls and Husky's.

Pulled Old Yaller out of the Burb, hit the compression release and drop started it and ripped it and one of their kid's yelled "Yes, a real chainsaw!".

Bucked the big tree, and walked back to the truck. A Dirty Harry moment.


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## ambull01 (Nov 18, 2014)

BrotherBart said:


> Nah. It doesn't take up much space. Only reason I mentioned it was you are close and I won't ship it and then have some fool not pull the rope twice till if pops and then close the choke and have it start on the next pull and want their money and shipping back.
> 
> Easier just to put it in the will. Sometimes just start it in the yard to listen to it. Three years ago a storm blew down a bunch of trees. I listened until around noon to lil saws running like buzzing bees in the neighborhood. Finally got tired of it and threw Old Yaller in the back of the Suburban and drove down the hill. Bunch of guys trying to cut a tree dropped over my neighbor's driveway with their lil Stihls and Husky's.
> 
> ...



Let me borrow it then. I'll cut some 3 year oak for you. I'll let you use my awesome Homelite in exchange.


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## Cory S (Nov 18, 2014)

TomatoLover said:


> This might be a dumb question, but I'm new to this, so keep that in mind.  When you split oak into smaller splits, does it decrease its value in terms of burn times and coal beds?  I thought I read somewhere that while smaller splits will quicken the seasoning time, it decreases the value of what gives oak its good name.  Is there any truth to that?


IMO, fuel is fuel.  If you have fine air control, burning smaller splits may actually give you higher efficiencies, better heat control, and the same amount of "burn times" 

My stove performs far better with 6 smaller splits VS. 3-4 larger splits.  Better air movement, and traces of moisture from the core, will boil out quicker. (You still won't hear sizzling at 20% though) You can generally shut the primary air control all the way off, and the stove just sings at 500-600* for hours.


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## Hogwildz (Nov 18, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> This really puts a lot of doubt in my mind on all the "seasoned oak" ads I see. How can everyone possibly have so much oak that's seasoned for 2-3 years?


Its not. Seasoned is an objective word in the eyes of the beholder. Most firewood sold as seasoned, may be seasoned in the sellers mind, but not dry. Not many sellers keep wood stacked in a nice drying row for 2-3 years.
Most is cut & split in the spring & summer and sold in the fall. Best bet is to get 3 years ahead in supply. The you know it is dry.


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## Hogwildz (Nov 18, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> Yep it's starting to look like pine will become my friend. Helps that a lot of people think you can't burn pine too. Should be easy to get.


Look for Maple, Pine, Cherry, the "softer" hard woods. They season in 12 months or sometimes less.


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## Hogwildz (Nov 18, 2014)

Smaller splits in my insert would blaze out of control. Yes they may burn hotter due to more air space, flow & movement between the splits. More efficient? I doubt that. Better heat control? Not in this stove.
Burn dry wood, and any moisture traces are minimal and a non factor. Shorter burn times, absolutely. The same size load of small splits vs. large splits will produce the same amount of BTUs. The difference is in how fast they are produced. Smaller= more air space & faster production of BTUs, larger = less air space & slower BTU production. 
I disagree on "same amount" of burn times, not here, not in 9 years with this stove. That is just my experience of course.


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## ambull01 (Nov 18, 2014)

Hogwildz said:


> Look for Maple, Pine, Cherry, the "softer" hard woods. They season in 12 months or sometimes less.



I can probably identify a pine tree but I'll need a pocket guide or Google for the others. Didn't know pine was considered a hard wood. Learn something new everyday. Just learned poplar is a soft wood yesterday. Poplar dries and becomes really light. The wood is known to become soft, at least from what I've read. Yet it's still considered a hard wood. I need to become an arborist to figure all this stuff out.


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## Hogwildz (Nov 19, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> I can probably identify a pine tree but I'll need a pocket guide or Google for the others. Didn't know pine was considered a hard wood. Learn something new everyday. Just learned poplar is a soft wood yesterday. Poplar dries and becomes really light. The wood is known to become soft, at least from what I've read. Yet it's still considered a hard wood. I need to become an arborist to figure all this stuff out.


Pine isn't a hardwood. I should have phrased better. Cherry & Maple are considerd hard woods, although I consider then softer, less dense hard woods as compared to oak, hickory etc.
Poplar is garbage wood to many, I keep it around for shoulder seasons if I come across it. Not for overnight burns. It does dry quickly. Another wood that dries fairly quickly is Ash.


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## branchburner (Nov 19, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> Do you test the MC? Not sure how red oak compares to white oak.



I give both 3 years, and I don't bother checking MC. Sure you can burn oak after a year or so. But it burns better after two. And it burns best after three or more.

If I had to buy and burn wood under a year cut/split, I would opt for other less dense hardwoods, even though they have fewer potential BTUs per volume than oak,.. at least for my stove, anyway.


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## branchburner (Nov 19, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> Poplar dries and becomes really light.



... it's what I'm burning right now
Burns a lot like pine when dry, but can take a bit longer than pine to fully dry (both hold a LOT of water when unsplit/uncovered). Good wood for fall/spring burning.


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## ambull01 (Nov 19, 2014)

Hogwildz said:


> Pine isn't a hardwood. I should have phrased better. Cherry & Maple are considerd hard woods, although I consider then softer, less dense hard woods as compared to oak, hickory etc.
> Poplar is garbage wood to many, I keep it around for shoulder seasons if I come across it. Not for overnight burns. It does dry quickly. Another wood that dries fairly quickly is Ash.



I see. So getting a mixture of those three would probably be ideal. I could use the pine to get things going and use while I'm awake. Throw in the dense hardwoods for prolonged burns. 

Yeah I'm figuring that out with poplar. There were about 10 or more really big logs at my in-laws. I cut most of them up and split the rounds. Probably be over 4 cords when I'm done. I also have about a cord of oak but I may just leave that stuff in the woods or give it to someone with more patience.


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## ambull01 (Nov 19, 2014)

branchburner said:


> I give both 3 years, and I don't bother checking MC. Sure you can burn oak after a year or so. But it burns better after two. And it burns best after three or more.
> 
> If I had to buy and burn wood under a year cut/split, I would opt for other less dense hardwoods, even though they have fewer potential BTUs per volume than oak,.. at least for my stove, anyway.



lol. So ideally 3 years or more. Isn't there a MC that is almost impossible to reach? What percentage do you try to get before you burn?


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## BrotherBart (Nov 19, 2014)

No. You load the hardwood in the back and the softwood in the front. When you load the stove you don't open the door again and "throw" something in.


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## ambull01 (Nov 19, 2014)

BrotherBart said:


> No. You load the hardwood in the back and the softwood in the front. When you load the stove you don't open the door again and "throw" something in.



Aye sir. I meant put hardwood in after the softwood is reduced to coals and I'm ready to call it a night. Insert some hardwood for the overnight burn. Your way works too though lol.


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## branchburner (Nov 19, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> What percentage do you try to get before you burn?



I don't shoot for any particular number, just for what makes my stove happy. If my stove is happy, I'm happy.

I've spent so many years burning at least some wood each year that was ALMOST dry enough, I'm happy to finally be ahead of the game: wood for 2015/16 is cut and split, and mostly all stacked. 
Never had that feeling before.
 I like it.


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## branchburner (Nov 19, 2014)

[quote="ambull01, post: 1814895, member: 38769 I also have about a cord of oak but I may just leave that stuff in the woods or give it to someone with more patience.[/quote]

You know, you don't have to store it in your yard for three years... you can leave it stacked in the woods, out of your way, 'til it's ready. It won't go bad.


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## BrotherBart (Nov 19, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> Aye sir. I meant put hardwood in after the softwood is reduced to coals and I'm ready to call it a night. Insert some hardwood for the overnight burn. Your way works too though lol.



If it doesn't we gonna get real cold tonight. We don't have any other source of heat. And if you haven't noticed, it is gonna be in the teens tonight here. I still plan on sleeping under that one sheet.

75 in the joint right now.


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## branchburner (Nov 19, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> after the softwood is reduced to coals



One thing you may notice if your softwood is white pine... it doesn't leave too much in the way of coals.


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## Hogwildz (Nov 19, 2014)

You're nuts to give away or pass up any Oak.
It is worth the wait.
Once you burn a dry load of it, you will wish you had tons more.


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## Hunker Down (Nov 19, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> Yep it's starting to look like pine will become my friend. Helps that a lot of people think you can't burn pine too. Should be easy to get.


You can make a simple kiln. Lay down a few pallets in a sunny spot, lay down plastic and poke a few drain holes, stack oak as normal, completely wrap stack in plastic. It will season in about half the time.


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## MJFlores (Nov 19, 2014)

Although there are gains to letting oak season for 2 or 3 years, none of my wood is ever older than 9 to 10 months...including my Red Oak.  I wish I could get ahead, but I just can't as I cut all my own trees and it's a lot of work each year getting enough for the 6 months that I burn.  If you split oak down to smallish 4" thick splits (which is a big piece for many of the smaller EPA stoves) and stack it in the sun all summer you can be down below 20 % moisture content.  It's quite burnable and will give plenty of heat, although it may provide even more if you let it sit an additional year.  This year I finally bought a moisture meter and all my wood is below 20% right now, even the last wood I cut and split.  It's all about how and where you stack it to maximize the drying time.  I never hear an hissing wood in the stove, and get the soapstone top to 500 easy enough.  Again, I'm not knocking the 2 or 3 year plan, but it's not the end of the world if you cant obtain that.


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## Cory S (Nov 19, 2014)

I have a lot of red oak that was split around 4" triangles, and was seasoned all year in the sun and wind.  This is my next years wood.  I spilt a fresh piece last week to check, and it was still 27-29% inside the core.  This wood looked real good.  Had lots of checks, and felt fairly light.  It was no where near ready for my EPA stove.  I tried burning it, and after the dry outside surface was lit up, it died right out after about 10 minutes.  It will be ready next burning season.  Not sure how your getting red oak down below 20% in a matter of months, unless your in Arizona.


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## MJFlores (Nov 19, 2014)

I'm in NH.  I dont think I do anything special, although I do have the wood out in the driveway off the the side...stacked what I call "Teepee style"...with the open grain facing criss-crossed to help air flow.  I came up with this method a few years back but I'm sure others do the same exact thing.  I don't claim to have invented anything.  Seems to work for me quite well.  I do wish I could always have a year of wood sitting so I'd be working on "next years" wood but I just cant get there unless I were to buy a bunch.  So far I've never had to buy wood and I don't really want to start although as I get older, those days may be coming.


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## Hogwildz (Nov 19, 2014)

MJFlores said:


> Although there are gains to letting oak season for 2 or 3 years, none of my wood is ever older than 9 to 10 months...including my Red Oak.  I wish I could get ahead, but I just can't as I cut all my own trees and it's a lot of work each year getting enough for the 6 months that I burn.  If you split oak down to smallish 4" thick splits (which is a big piece for many of the smaller EPA stoves) and stack it in the sun all summer you can be down below 20 % moisture content.  It's quite burnable and will give plenty of heat, although it may provide even more if you let it sit an additional year.  This year I finally bought a moisture meter and all my wood is below 20% right now, even the last wood I cut and split.  It's all about how and where you stack it to maximize the drying time.  I never hear an hissing wood in the stove, and get the soapstone top to 500 easy enough.  Again, I'm not knocking the 2 or 3 year plan, but it's not the end of the world if you cant obtain that.


Are you checking with the MM on the outside of the splits, or splitting them and checking the fresh split surface?


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## ambull01 (Nov 19, 2014)

branchburner said:


> [quote="ambull01, post: 1814895, member: 38769 I also have about a cord of oak but I may just leave that stuff in the woods or give it to someone with more patience.



You know, you don't have to store it in your yard for three years... you can leave it stacked in the woods, out of your way, 'til it's ready. It won't go bad.[/quote]

Wouldn't it rot and soak up moisture? Always thought it had to be off the ground.


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## ambull01 (Nov 19, 2014)

BrotherBart said:


> If it doesn't we gonna get real cold tonight. We don't have any other source of heat. And if you haven't noticed, it is gonna be in the teens tonight here. I still plan on sleeping under that one sheet.
> 
> 75 in the joint right now.



Yep it was cold last night. Do you use all of your stoves?


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## BrotherBart (Nov 19, 2014)

Just one.


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## ambull01 (Nov 19, 2014)

MJFlores said:


> Although there are gains to letting oak season for 2 or 3 years, none of my wood is ever older than 9 to 10 months...including my Red Oak.  I wish I could get ahead, but I just can't as I cut all my own trees and it's a lot of work each year getting enough for the 6 months that I burn.  If you split oak down to smallish 4" thick splits (which is a big piece for many of the smaller EPA stoves) and stack it in the sun all summer you can be down below 20 % moisture content.  It's quite burnable and will give plenty of heat, although it may provide even more if you let it sit an additional year.  This year I finally bought a moisture meter and all my wood is below 20% right now, even the last wood I cut and split.  It's all about how and where you stack it to maximize the drying time.  I never hear an hissing wood in the stove, and get the soapstone top to 500 easy enough.  Again, I'm not knocking the 2 or 3 year plan, but it's not the end of the world if you cant obtain that.



Lots of variance in drying time I see.


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## branchburner (Nov 19, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> Wouldn't it rot and soak up moisture? Always thought it had to be off the ground.



yes, off the ground... it could be put up in single rows, lying on two parallel logs, in the middle of the woods... just stack it where you drop it. The more sun and air the better, but even shaded it will season as long as it's c/s/s/c.

red oak lasts pretty well even on the ground... the outer inch or so rots and gets punky, but the core stays solid. Maple, on the other hand, rots right through very quickly.


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## ambull01 (Nov 19, 2014)

branchburner said:


> yes, off the ground... it could be put up in single rows, lying on two parallel logs, in the middle of the woods... just stack it where you drop it. The more sun and air the better, but even shaded it will season as long as it's c/s/s/c.
> 
> red oak lasts pretty well even on the ground... the outer inch or so rots and gets punky, but the core stays solid. Maple, on the other hand, rots right through very quickly.



Okay got it. I'll have to find a nice spot. Found out there's other scroungers around me. It would ruin my day if someone stole all my work. 

I'm either going to hold out for a HD 6421 or an older Poulan in 60cc, whichever comes first at the right price. I may be waiting for a long time on the 6421 though. Has it handled everything you wanted to cut?


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## MJFlores (Nov 19, 2014)

Hogwildz said:


> Are you checking with the MM on the outside of the splits, or splitting them and checking the fresh split surface?


Yes, the ones I tested this year I split open with an axe and tested the fresh side with my meter.


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## Renjilj (Nov 19, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> Minimal coals? I thought that was a bad thing. Or are you getting minimal coals because the splits are so small? I would think having coals would be a good thing for reloading.


Minimal meaning doesnt fill up the box with coals and clinkers that take up space for reload (like can be common with under-seasoned wood). Find smaller splits helps keep the pile down also. Leaves a good amount hot and ready for next go!


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## ambull01 (Nov 19, 2014)

Okay, I think I've finally learned enough that I'll be ready to burn next year without destroying my house. Thanks everyone.


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## branchburner (Nov 19, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> Okay got it. I'll have to find a nice spot. Found out there's other scroungers around me. It would ruin my day if someone stole all my work.
> 
> I'm either going to hold out for a HD 6421 or an older Poulan in 60cc, whichever comes first at the right price. I may be waiting for a long time on the 6421 though. Has it handled everything you wanted to cut?



Well, I wouldn't make a stash of oak except on my own (or friends'/relatives') property... not that property rights mean it won't get stolen anyway.

Got my 6421 for $300, had to call 6 or 7 HDs before I found it... that was about ten minutes work.
Great saw! I do like having my little, lightweight Echo, too, for limbing and cutting branch wood and so forth. Much prefer having one big 20" + one little 14" over having one medium-sized 16-18" saw!


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## ambull01 (Nov 19, 2014)

branchburner said:


> Well, I wouldn't make a stash of oak except on my own (or friends'/relatives') property... not that property rights mean it won't get stolen anyway.
> 
> Got my 6421 for $300, had to call 6 or 7 HDs before I found it... that was about ten minutes work.
> Great saw! I do like having my little, lightweight Echo, too, for limbing and cutting branch wood and so forth. Much prefer having one big 20" + one little 14" over having one medium-sized 16-18" saw!



I'll learn how to do some non-lethal booby traps

Oh so it is a HD 6421! I spoke to a HD rental guy the other day. He told me when the list comes out and said to call him. He will also check surrounding stores. I was thinking about getting a limbing saw too but I'm almost positive that will start off a saw obsession. I'll just get the 6421 and eventually put a BB kit on it to make it 84cc (I think).


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## hickoryhoarder (Nov 19, 2014)

I'm about to stock up on some oak in preparation for next year. I keep reading on this site about having to season oak for 2-3 years. Is this true!?

Seasoning isn't just about months.  It's sun, wind, how wood is stacked, whether it's split.  I usually re-split the bigger red oak  pieces a year after it's in my sunny, hot driveway, and burn it two to four months later.  That seems to work fine.  If you're talking fat, round logs, yeah, I think three years would make sense.

Oak does take a while, as does hickory.  Cherry seems ready after six months if in a dry, sunny location.  I usually work a year ahead on everything, and use the oak after January (14-18 months). I refuse to burn anything but well seasoned wood in my urban area; the oak can be well seasoned in 16 months in the conditions mentioned.


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## hickoryhoarder (Nov 19, 2014)

hickoryhoarder said:


> I'm about to stock up on some oak in preparation for next year. I keep reading on this site about having to season oak for 2-3 years. Is this true!?
> 
> Seasoning isn't just about months.  It's sun, wind, how wood is stacked, whether it's split.  I usually re-split the bigger red oak  pieces a year after it's in my sunny, hot driveway, and burn it two to four months later.  That seems to work fine.  If you're talking fat, round logs, yeah, I think three years would make sense.
> 
> Oak does take a while, as does hickory.  Cherry seems ready after six months if in a dry, sunny location.  I usually work a year ahead on everything, and use the oak after January (14-18 months). I refuse to burn anything but well seasoned wood in my urban area; the oak can be well seasoned in 16 months in the conditions mentioned.


 
To me, oak's readiness can be smelled.  When the nice smell is gone, it's a good sign.


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## hickoryhoarder (Nov 19, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> This really puts a lot of doubt in my mind on all the "seasoned oak" ads I see. How can everyone possibly have so much oak that's seasoned for 2-3 years?



Where I live "seasoned" just means it was not cut yesterday. It's been stacked and is waiting for customers.  I have never bought seasoned wood that is ready.  As far as I'm concerned, the seasoning time starts the day I buy or cut.


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## Cory S (Nov 19, 2014)

A much used term here in NH is "semi-seasoned" LOL!  basically it's green wood that was cut and spilt over a few weeks prior......  Or cut in log lengths sitting for a few months.  Still 45-50% MC at best.


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## hickoryhoarder (Nov 19, 2014)

Hogwildz said:


> Pine isn't a hardwood. I should have phrased better. Cherry & Maple are considerd hard woods, although I consider then softer, less dense hard woods as compared to oak, hickory etc.
> Poplar is garbage wood to many, I keep it around for shoulder seasons if I come across it. Not for overnight burns. It does dry quickly. Another wood that dries fairly quickly is Ash.



I had the opposite experience with white ash.  Slowest drying wood I ever had.  Seemed ready after a year, but I learned never to put it on anything but a very hot fire.


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## Vic99 (Nov 19, 2014)

In my experience in MA, white oak starts off drier and seasons faster than red.  White oak holds a few more BTUs as well.

I notice a difference between 1 and 2 years for oak, but is mostly acceptable at 1 yr.  after a reload, Sometimes the stovetop rising stalls a bit after 20-30 minutes and I have to open the stove up and slightly move things around, but it works out fine.

In my experience, the following dry fine after 1 yr: pines, spruces, white and yellow birch, cherry, ash, red maple, poplar. 

When in doubt you could mix sketchy wood with better wood.

Good luck.


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## fabsroman (Nov 19, 2014)

Man, you are on the eastern shore and you don't have room to store 3 years worth of wood and have space to process additional firewood. Completely off topic, but I'm looking to buy a farm on the eastern shore in the next couple of years for hunting and firewood processing.

Anyway, the guys are right. I couldn't believe that oak takes 2 to 3 years to season, but it does. White oak seasons quicker than red. I will be burning white oak this year that is at 20% moisture content, but come December it will have been stacked for 2 whole years. The red oak definitely takes 3 years and I would end up giving locust 3 years too. When I first started burning, my dad told me locust burns good after a year in the stacks. Yeah, that was a complete mess and waste of wood.

You might want to look for hickory and hard maple. Maple seasons pretty quick and has decent btu content. Poplar seasons pretty quick too, but it is on the low end of btu content and it is as heavy as oak when green. Light as a feather when seasoned.


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## Husky (Nov 19, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> Do you test the MC? Not sure how red oak compares to white oak which is what I've been splitting. I split them real small to help season faster but I may have made them too little. Probably drastically cut down on the burn times which is what oak is good for, from what I've read. Guess the best thing to do is make various size splits.


No, I have never measured MC. I have tried to burn it after 10 months one year, Big mistake!! I was in need of wood and thought it would be okay. I always make varied size splits. Some small and some real big, for long burns over night. Never had a problem if I let them season the full 16 months.


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## ambull01 (Nov 19, 2014)

fabsroman said:


> Man, you are on the eastern shore and you don't have room to store 3 years worth of wood and have space to process additional firewood. Completely off topic, but I'm looking to buy a farm on the eastern shore in the next couple of years for hunting and firewood processing.
> 
> Anyway, the guys are right. I couldn't believe that oak takes 2 to 3 years to season, but it does. White oak seasons quicker than red. I will be burning white oak this year that is at 20% moisture content, but come December it will have been stacked for 2 whole years. The red oak definitely takes 3 years and I would end up giving locust 3 years too. When I first started burning, my dad told me locust burns good after a year in the stacks. Yeah, that was a complete mess and waste of wood.
> 
> You might want to look for hickory and hard maple. Maple seasons pretty quick and has decent btu content. Poplar seasons pretty quick too, but it is on the low end of btu content and it is as heavy as oak when green. Light as a feather when seasoned.



Well, you know we're not all farmers right? 

I just moved to the eastern shore. Love it here so far. I absolutely hate crossing over the bay bridge, too much traffic on the western side. Heard the deer here are the biggest in the state. 

Didn't think anyone close to Bmore would burn wood. Man I HATE that city. My Guard unit is right off of MLK Blvd.


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## branchburner (Nov 19, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> . I was thinking about getting a limbing saw too but I'm almost positive that will start off a saw obsession



You say that like it's a bad thing.

I tell my wife, look hon, these tools are an INVESTMENT... I get them used, in good shape for a good price, and can always sell them at little or no loss (and after a few years of use, that amounts to a GAIN).
She'd rather be taken out to dinner, which I consider a poor investment... until I consider where I might end up sleeping without making said investment.

Pretty sure a saw will hold its value better than the $USD in coming years.... 'specially one made of silver or gold.


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## ambull01 (Nov 19, 2014)

branchburner said:


> You say that like it's a bad thing.
> 
> I tell my wife, look hon, these tools are an INVESTMENT... I get them used, in good shape for a good price, and can always sell them at little or no loss (and after a few years of use, that amounts to a GAIN).
> She'd rather be taken out to dinner, which I consider a poor investment... until I consider where I might end up sleeping without making said investment.
> ...



lol. I've been using the same argument. Told her I need these things to cut down on the electric bill. We just bought a really old Victorian style house. Electric baseboard heat. I was thinking it would be better than the oil heat I'm used to but now I'm not so sure. Heard the previous owner had a $800 electric bill! Although, I have to admit I think she is soft. She put carpet in the bathroom. Who the hell puts freaking carpet in a bathroom!? 

I would love to get two HD 6421s. Leave one stock and put a BB kit on the other. Then get a little limbing saw and a pole saw. After that, possibly a few older Poulans. Love their look. Then a few saws to mess around with and learn how to fix them.


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## xman23 (Nov 19, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> You must have a giant yard.



A bit over an acre. I do have some large wood piles. I only burn weekend, and a few weeks we are at the cabin. Most years under 2 cords.


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## Bigg_Redd (Nov 20, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> If I have to season it for that long I may as well forget about oak.



Yup

I hear they GIVE pine away over there.  It only needs a year - one good summer, really.


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## Bigg_Redd (Nov 20, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> 26 years? I can scratch black locust off my scrounge list too.



BL has very low moisture when it's green - get it split and cribbed properly and it's ready in a year.


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## ambull01 (Nov 20, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> BL has very low moisture when it's green - get it split and cribbed properly and it's ready in a year.



Nice. Now I just need to get a pocket field guide to trees so I know what BL looks like. 

Yep, pine seems to be plentiful. I see a lot of those "seasoned" firewood sellers specifically mention no pine. Most mention all oak.


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## 2PistolPacker (Nov 20, 2014)

Between these two pictures I got 4.25 cords of black locust. 
	

		
			
		

		
	






Last years oak 3 cords.


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## gzecc (Nov 20, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> Yep it's starting to look like pine will become my friend. Helps that a lot of people think you can't burn pine too. Should be easy to get.


 
I stay away from oak. It just takes too long to season. Stick with other hardwoods. Especially Ash, Maple, Locust, etc... I will only take oak if someone drops it off split in my yard. Happens occasionally.
To confirm oak takes a minimum 2 summers split and stacked in single rows, off the ground in my yard from a live tree.


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## ambull01 (Nov 20, 2014)

2PistolPacker said:


> Between these two pictures I got 4.25 cords of black locust.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



That's all BL in the top two pics? Top left pic, second piece from bottom looks just like the pine I picked up from the side of the road. Man I wish it really is BL vs pine lol.


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## ambull01 (Nov 20, 2014)

gzecc said:


> I stay away from oak. It just takes too long to season. Stick with other hardwoods. Especially Ash, Maple, Locust, etc... I will only take oak if someone drops it off split in my yard. Happens occasionally.
> To confirm oak takes a minimum 2 summers split and stacked in single rows, off the ground in my yard from a live tree.



Yeah that curing time is kind of ridiculous.


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## 2PistolPacker (Nov 20, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> That's all BL in the top two pics? Top left pic, second piece from bottom looks just like the pine I picked up from the side of the road. Man I wish it really is BL vs pine lol.


The first picture is one whole locust tree, the second picture is the limb wood off the second tree which was twice as big. Both had been dead for at least 3 years as you notice there is no bark on the trunk pieces in the first picture. It's funny most species of wood look the same with out bark. The biggest advantage of taking long dead locust is not having to put up with the stench of a fresh cut live locust tree.


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## BIGDADDY (Nov 20, 2014)

I have cut dead oak and split and burned it within 1 year. Since oak is so dense if it is cut green it may take a few years to dry out. The trick is find dead standing oak. 
Wood that takes longer to season also burns longer in the stove.


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## BIGDADDY (Nov 20, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> I'm about to stock up on some oak in preparation for next year. I keep reading on this site about having to season oak for 2-3 years. Is this true!? If I have to season it for that long I may as well forget about oak. I don't have the space in my yard to accumulate 3+ years worth of oak plus work on firewood for next year.
> 
> On another site I've been reading they say oak only needs about a year or so for MC to drop below 20%. What makes oak take so long to season? If it's because it's a hardwood, why don't all hardwoods take as long?



Actually a years worth of oak will take less space then a years worth of pine or cherry.
Try to get some dead oak to begin with.


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## ambull01 (Nov 20, 2014)

2PistolPacker said:


> The first picture is one whole locust tree, the second picture is the limb wood off the second tree which was twice as big. Both had been dead for at least 3 years as you notice there is no bark on the trunk pieces in the first picture. It's funny most species of wood look the same with out bark. The biggest advantage of taking long dead locust is not having to put up with the stench of a fresh cut live locust tree.



So they stink? 

BTW, just got a Fiskars X27 today. Went through two pieces of pine real easy. Tried it on a bigger round and it bounced off, got stuck a few times, then sank in without splitting it off. I'm hoping it's sweet gum or something. Whatever it is, it is some tough stuff.


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## BrotherBart (Nov 20, 2014)

On really large rounds you have to work around it taking slabs off the the sides before splitting the middle. It releases the tension in the middle making it easier to split.


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## BIGDADDY (Nov 20, 2014)

Yes locust does have a distinct unpleasant odor.


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## ambull01 (Nov 20, 2014)

BrotherBart said:


> On really large rounds you have to work around it taking slabs off the the sides before splitting the middle. It releases the tension in the middle making it easier to split.



I think I may have to wait a while to split this stuff. There's really no visible cracks on the round. I got the Fiskars to sink in on one side but it didn't go through all the way.


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## BIGDADDY (Nov 20, 2014)

Don't you have a sledge and wedges?


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## 2PistolPacker (Nov 20, 2014)

Ha, I have a maul, sledge hammer, wedges, axes, hatchets......they all retired except for a small hatchet when I bought my current log splitter.


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## ambull01 (Nov 20, 2014)

BIGDADDY said:


> Don't you have a sledge and wedges?



Nope, not yet. This was going to be my first year burning.


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## ambull01 (Nov 20, 2014)

2PistolPacker said:


> Ha, I have a maul, sledge hammer, wedges, axes, hatchets......they all retired except for a small hatchet when I bought my current log splitter.



I would love a log splitter. It would take a while to recoup all the costs though.


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## BIGDADDY (Nov 20, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> Nope, not yet. This was going to be my first year burning.


Gotta get a sledge and a couple wedges. I have a hydralic splitter but I still occasionally drive a wedge in something when I'm out cutting wood.
You say this was going to be your first year burning. Are you not burning this year now?


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## drewberry24 (Nov 20, 2014)

It's great exercise splitting by hand.  At least that's what I keep telling myself....


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## ambull01 (Nov 20, 2014)

BIGDADDY said:


> Gotta get a sledge and a couple wedges. I have a hydralic splitter but I still occasionally drive a wedge in something when I'm out cutting wood.
> You say this was going to be your first year burning. Are you not burning this year now?



Yeah I need one soon. Have to find the best, reasonably priced sledge/maul. 

Nope, I'm waiting until next year. 

Everything was kind of last minute. In-laws bought us this tiny, shallow little insert as a house warming gift. They came over last weekend or the one before, can't remember. We installed the insert ghetto style. It's not totally in the firebox, there's no decorative plate or whatever you call it to hide the firebox, a short length of pipe is connected from the insert to the flue, and we fabricated our own block off plate. Chimney is internal but not lined. Poplar and wood I split is probably wet. I can go on lol. 

Anyway, decided I should learn about what I'm doing it before jumping in head first. I have kids, a wife, and a retarded dog living in this house so I owe it to them to be responsible. Being responsible kind of sucks at times.


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## Bigg_Redd (Nov 21, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> Nice. Now I just need to get a pocket field guide to trees so I know what BL looks like



If you ever saw it or split it you'll know - it smells like hot garbage


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## shoot-straight (Nov 21, 2014)

im on the shore too. i havent read the whole thread, but here is my take. if youre a scrounger and wood is hard to get, take what you can get. if the oak isnt as dry as it should be, you can certainly still burn it! 

for one year stuff focus on ash. its the best btu/quick dry wood around. maple and tulip poplar are fine too. less btus but dry quick. if you need a source, talk to a firewood guy or tree guy and tell him you want the lighter stuff. it will be cheaper, sometimes free if you talk to the right person.


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## DTrain (Nov 21, 2014)

I have 5 cords of oak I bought last January. Guy said it had been down 10 months. Possible in rounds and then split. That meant nothing to me because I heard it really needs to be split to dry. So it was stacked and got full sun all day since last January .   These are all 4-6" square splits.   To my surprise whe I crack one open I'm getting 18-22%.  All red oak.


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## 2PistolPacker (Nov 21, 2014)

DTrain said:


> I have 5 cords of oak I bought last January. Guy said it had been down 10 months. Possible in rounds and then split. That meant nothing to me because I heard it really needs to be split to dry. So it was stacked and got full sun all day since last January .   These are all 4-6" square splits.   To my surprise whe I crack one open I'm getting 18-22%.  All red oak.


I just got done splitting the 28" rounds of an oak tree we took down 3 weeks ago, it has been dead so long (maybe 20 years) all that was left was the trunk about 35" tall, no limbs. There is a ring of rotted wood around the perimeter of the rounds about 2" thick, after splitting the rounds into small pieces the MC is still 25%. So this proves to me it doesn't matter how long a tree has been dead it won't completely dry until it is split and stacked off the ground. So much for the wood I thought was a no brainer to burn in two weeks.


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## BIGDADDY (Nov 21, 2014)

2PistolPacker said:


> I just got done splitting the 28" rounds of an oak tree we took down 3 weeks ago, it has been dead so long (maybe 20 years) all that was left was the trunk about 35" tall, no limbs. There is a ring of rotted wood around the perimeter of the rounds about 2" thick, after splitting the rounds into small pieces the MC is still 25%. So this proves to me it doesn't matter how long a tree has been dead it won't start to dry until it is split and stacked off the ground. So much for the wood I thought was a no brainer to burn in two weeks.


Well the fact it is at 25% moisture content proves that it has already dried some while standing dead. A live oak would be over 30% maybe over 35%. So although it's not ready for the stove it's closer to being ready.
No doubt splitting any wood excelarates the drying process.


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## ambull01 (Nov 21, 2014)

BIGDADDY said:


> Well the fact it is at 25% moisture content proves that it has already dried some while standing dead. A live oak would be over 30% maybe over 35%. So although it's not ready for the stove it's closer to being ready.
> No doubt splitting any wood excelarates the drying process.



You ever cut a log and have water gush out of the cut? I bucked a dead standing oak and hit a pocket full of water. Everything gushed out and I thought I broke my saw for a second.


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## paul bunion (Nov 22, 2014)

BIGDADDY said:


> Well the fact it is at 25% moisture content proves that it has already dried some while standing dead. A live oak would be over 30% maybe over 35%. So although it's not ready for the stove it's closer to being ready.
> No doubt splitting any wood excelarates the drying process.


In case you and 2pistolpacker aren't aware, oak runs about 70- 80% green on the stump.


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## Bigg_Redd (Nov 22, 2014)

2PistolPacker said:


> So this proves to me it doesn't matter how long a tree has been dead it won't start to dry until it is split and stacked off the ground. So much for the wood I thought was a no brainer to burn in two weeks.



If those logs had been stored off the ground and under cover for 20 years they'd be dryer than popcorn farts


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## Hogwildz (Nov 22, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> If those logs had been stored off the ground and under cover for 20 years they'd be dryer than popcorn farts


That thar be pretty damn dry!
Less smelly too


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## BIGDADDY (Nov 22, 2014)

paul bunion said:


> In case you and 2pistolpacker aren't aware, oak runs about 70- 80% green on the stump.


 
My moisture meter doesnt read that high. Thanks for the information!


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## BIGDADDY (Nov 22, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> You ever cut a log and have water gush out of the cut? I bucked a dead standing oak and hit a pocket full of water. Everything gushed out and I thought I broke my saw for a second.


 
Yes I have cut into some cherry trees that had  rotton spots where rain water accumulated. Did you ever buck a dead oak when it was laying on the ground?


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## 2PistolPacker (Nov 22, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> If those logs had been stored off the ground and under cover for 20 years they'd be dryer than popcorn farts


Ha Ha.......that's what the top 8 feet of this oak was like. I dropped the whole thing at once and when it hit the ground the top kinda went poof in a cloud of powder and small chunks. I was really surprised there was any real wood left in the tree.


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## billb3 (Nov 22, 2014)

2PistolPacker said:


> I just got done splitting the 28" rounds of an oak tree we took down 3 weeks ago, it has been dead so long (maybe 20 years) all that was left was the trunk about 35" tall, no limbs. There is a ring of rotted wood around the perimeter of the rounds about 2" thick, after splitting the rounds into small pieces the MC is still 25%. So this proves to me it doesn't matter how long a tree has been dead it won't completely dry until it is split and stacked off the ground. So much for the wood I thought was a no brainer to burn in two weeks.


Rain water.
Cut it, split it, stack it, take a MM to it, you'll be rather surprised at how fast that rain water dries out.
You might notice how much lighter splits from the top of that 35 foot pole are compared to the bottom.

We processed 20 cords of dead standing oak last year. One half in November, one half in January. The stuff I stacked and measured at 23-27% in November was at 17/18/19 in february. Was nice as we used up the four cords that should have been more than enough if last Winter hadn't been unusually and persistently Winter-like and burned about a half cord of what we had cut in November.


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## paul bunion (Nov 22, 2014)

BIGDADDY said:


> My moisture meter doesnt read that high. Thanks for the information!


None can.   When the moisture content is in the high thirties the wood reaches a saturation point and the change in electrical resistance becomes almost infinitesimal as it gets wetter.   Like on the order of a million times less than when wood is in the single digits.


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## ambull01 (Nov 23, 2014)

BIGDADDY said:


> Yes I have cut into some cherry trees that had  rotton spots where rain water accumulated. Did you ever buck a dead oak when it was laying on the ground?



I don't think so. Used to just use my chainsaw for around the house use. This is my first year using it for firewood. Oh wait, I guess you could say I have. The dead standing oak was felled then I bucked it. Does that count? lol


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## ambull01 (Nov 23, 2014)

Kind of off topic. Did I mention I bought a Fiskars X27? I tested it out in my back yard. Put a pine round on top of another round. Figured I would use the bottom round as a splitting base. Fiskars blew though both rounds! Very impressive. Only down side is the blade went right into the dirt. From there things went really down hill. I smacked the crap out of the next round. Fiskars actually bounced off it a few times. Finally was able to sink the blade in on the side but still didn't go all the way through. Just found out that log is sweetgum. I hate sweetgum!


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## Razo (Nov 24, 2014)

2PistolPacker said:


> I just got done splitting the 28" rounds of an oak tree we took down 3 weeks ago, it has been dead so long (maybe 20 years) all that was left was the trunk about 35" tall, no limbs. There is a ring of rotted wood around the perimeter of the rounds about 2" thick, after splitting the rounds into small pieces the MC is still 25%. So this proves to me it doesn't matter how long a tree has been dead it won't completely dry until it is split and stacked off the ground. So much for the wood I thought was a no brainer to burn in two weeks.



Stack it and check it every month. Just because it still has a moisture content above 20% doesn't mean it won't lose that moisture_ faster_ than green wood at the same moisture content.

Case in point. I was given silver maple in round form that had been bucked for 3 years. I split it and it was still at 30% moisture content. A few months later and it was 16% on a fresh split. My green silver maple is still up around 27%. So what I'm saying is that it may lose that moisture now that it is split and stacked a lot quicker than you think.


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## Pennsyltucky Chris (Nov 26, 2014)

One time I cut 2 oaks. I burnt em in 2 years. My fault.


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## ambull01 (Nov 27, 2014)

Razo said:


> Stack it and check it every month. Just because it still has a moisture content above 20% doesn't mean it won't lose that moisture_ faster_ than green wood at the same moisture content.
> 
> Case in point. I was given silver maple in round form that had been bucked for 3 years. I split it and it was still at 30% moisture content. A few months later and it was 16% on a fresh split. My green silver maple is still up around 27%. So what I'm saying is that it may lose that moisture now that it is split and stacked a lot quicker than you think.



Wow, bucked for 3 years and still 30% moisture. Guess that means the CL add I saw with 1 year old bucked oak isn't really seasoned.


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## Bigg_Redd (Nov 27, 2014)

Just FEI (for everyone's information)

Bucked rounds will dry significantly if stored off the ground

Bucked and split wood will not dry very well on the ground

Wet wood that has been dead for years, once it is off the ground and under cover, will loose it's moisture much quicker than freshly felled green wood


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## ambull01 (Nov 27, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> Just FEI (for everyone's information)
> 
> Bucked rounds will dry significantly if stored off the ground
> 
> ...



Does it matter how far off the ground? I've started stacking my splits on some red brick.


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## Bigg_Redd (Nov 27, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> Does it matter how far off the ground? I've started stacking my splits on some red brick.



In my experience, yes.  Pallets are ideal - they are cheap(free), they are strong, and they allow for a good deal of ventilation. Red brick is better than the ground but you may not get the drying you'd hope for on the bottom course.


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## ambull01 (Nov 27, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> In my experience, yes.  Pallets are ideal - they are cheap(free), they are strong, and they allow for a good deal of ventilation. Red brick is better than the ground but you may not get the drying you'd hope for on the bottom course.



Okay thanks. I was planning on using the pallets for kindling but I guess I'll have enough just from splitting. I placed the red bricks parallel to each other on the ground then started the first row of splits on them. Figured that may mimic a pallet but it's not as far off the ground.


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## 2PistolPacker (Nov 27, 2014)

I have always used CCA timbers about a foot apart, with the first layer of wood bark side down. Just as important to drying as keeping the stacks off the ground is spacing between stacks. Good air flow is important too.


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## ambull01 (Nov 27, 2014)

So much to learn. I'm amazed how my great grandfather knew all this living in western NC without hearth.com.


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## Bigg_Redd (Nov 27, 2014)

ambull01 said:


> Okay thanks. I was planning on using the pallets for kindling but I guess I'll have enough just from splitting. I placed the red bricks parallel to each other on the ground then started the first row of splits on them. Figured that may mimic a pallet but it's not as far off the ground.



Perfect


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## ambull01 (Nov 27, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> Perfect



So I should roll with that? I think I'll do a test. One stack on the parallel bricks and one stack on a pallet. See how fast the moisture reduces.


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## Hogwildz (Nov 27, 2014)

As long as you get them off the ground is the important thing. I think pallets will let more air around and keep them higher of the ground, but anything to get them off the dirt is a plus.
Most hardware stores will be glad for you to ask them for their pallets.


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## Kenster (Nov 29, 2014)

Virtually everything on our 12 acres is Oak, with a bit of pignut hickory.  Lots of Water Oak but others as well.  I have cut down standing dead trees, known to have been dead at least two years - so dead the top branches have virtually all fallen off- and have found that the trunk still oozes water.   In most cases, even here in hot South East Texas, Oak needs AT LEAST two years split and stacked in a sunny place catching the prevailing winds.  Catching wind is more important than sun.

I have one one exception.  In 2011 we were in the midst of a bad drought and had over 100 days of 100+degree temperatures.  Winds out of the SW blew like a furnace all summer.   VERY wet, green oak seasoned to less than 20% in about nine months.

I understand that many of you just don't have a place to store wood for two or three years but if you could start out with even half a cord, then maybe add another half each year as your burn down your other supplies, you'll end up with some of the best burns you ever had.


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## Bigg_Redd (Nov 29, 2014)

Kenster said:


> you'll end up with some of the best burns you ever had.



Yeah. . . that very well may be but it's still not worth staring at a pile for 2+ years


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## ambull01 (Nov 29, 2014)

I've been bypassing the oak rounds when I scrounge. Just go right to the sugar maple (I think that's what it is). If the oak is still there after I ransack the maple and all the pine then I'll get the oak. Kind of disappointing it takes so long to cure oak.


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## Kenster (Nov 29, 2014)

Bigg_Redd said:


> Yeah. . . that very well may be but it's still not worth staring at a pile for 2+ years



If you are unable, or unwilling, to get two or three years ahead, giving good wood time to properly season, you are condemning yourself to a lifetime of inefficient burns and inferior wood.  And many people here will agree with me when I say... Yes, it IS worth the wait.


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## Bigg_Redd (Nov 30, 2014)

Kenster said:


> And many people here will agree with me when I say...



I think I'll be OK - There is no species in western WA that requires 2+ years


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## ambull01 (Nov 30, 2014)

Kenster said:


> If you are unable, or unwilling, to get two or three years ahead, giving good wood time to properly season, you are condemning yourself to a lifetime of inefficient burns and inferior wood.  And many people here will agree with me when I say... Yes, it IS worth the wait.



That means I'll have at least 12 cords of firewood sitting in my yard at any given time. That's a lot of wood and space.


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## Hogwildz (Nov 30, 2014)

Not really that large a space, and space well used.


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## claydogg84 (Nov 30, 2014)

I tried burning oak tonight seasoned for a year. Stove fell on its face hard - sending the rest of it back to the pile for next year.


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