# King 5510 Review



## crisfrazer

Last year my wife and I bought a new home with a very ancient wall heater.  Not wanting to use it we installed a pellet stove that we bought used from a company in our small town who builds them (the company is Heat Tech).  This year we paid the owner to do a service on the stove to make sure it was ready for the season, which he did and declared it in perfect working order.  A week later the blower fan died.  It took two weeks to get him back out to replace the control panel which fixed the blower fan but killed the auger.  He said he would come and fix it again in a couple weeks.  We have a newborn in the house so we couldn't wait for heat so we ran down to the local Tractor Supply and bought the King 5510 because it was on sale.  Later that day I read a couple reviews on Amazon that didn't paint the stove in a very flattering light and I got nervous but not having any other options we stuck with it...and we're so glad we did!

The reviews I read addressed many problems which I'll try to outline:

1. The Stove Doesn't Output Heat

We didn't find this to be true at all, in fact quite the opposite is true.  Not having any source of heat in our house when I installed the stove it was 60 degrees in the room we installed it in.  Upon installing it and letting the start-up go through its proceedure (which took all of about 3 minutes) it took only about 45 minutes for the house to get up to about 80 on setting 3.  The instructions are very clear that the stove must be left on setting 3 for no less than 4 hours in order to let the paint set.  Needless to say within an hour and a half of starting the stove we were opening windows. 


2. The Seal Around the Door is Poor

I performed the "dollar test" on the stove to check for this.  I simply slid a dollar bill into the door way and closed it to see how hard it was to pull the bill out.  It wasn't budging.  I checked every inch of the door and found the seal to be perfect all the way around.

3. It's Noisy!

Well, its not quiet but I wouldn't call it noisy.  It's no louder than say a box fan on high.  Mostly what you hear is the sound of the air being blown out and mild hum of the motor.  The auger is completly inaudable.  So does it make noise?  Yeah, it does.  Is it unbearable?  No, not at all.

4. It Produces Way Too Much Ash

After a day of running there was a  light dusting of ash inside the burn chamber and a few flakes on the ash chamber below it, certainly not what I would call excessive by any means.  Thing is people will buy cheap pellets and then complain that they get no heat and tons of ash but with this stove, just like any other, if you put quality into it you'll get quality out of it.

What really impressed me about this stove is that its not only made in the USA but the instructions are written in the USA in plain English that is easy to read and understand.  

The hopper is very large.  We got 4 40lb bags into the hopper easily but without a hairs width to spare.  Our old stove had a 45 pound capacity which meant waiting until the stove was almost empty before it could be refilled and to make matters more complicated was that the opening to fill the stove was only 6" by 16" where as this stove has an opening of almost 28" by 28".  Its so easy to fill and with our fairly mild Northern California winters we only have to fill it once a week or so.  

The only "WTF" moment was that the entire stove came fully assembled except for the two little knobs on the ash pulls and they were a real pain to get on however a little Pam Spray and a pair of pliers fixed the problem really quickly.  I just can't for the life of me figure out why they didn't just install them at the factory.  

We love this stove, we couldn't be happier.  The only thing I would change is the burn chamber door handle.  It sticks straight out from door by about 8".  If this stove was installed in an area where you're going to walk directly in front of it often then this might be a problem but for me its no biggie.

If you're looking for a good stove for a great price (we paid $1099 out the door) I highly reccomend this stove.


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## MCPO

Well, that`s refreshing to hear it`s good from the start.  We certainly wish you all the best with your new stove and many happy , trouble free years with it. That`s really a great price on a new pellet stove.


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## Bobby

I have a 5510, and burned about 25 bags of pellets in it sofar. Seems like a real great stove for the price. Just got 2tons of green teams from lowes delivered. now just waiting for cooler weather. I think you will like that stove alot.


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## imacman

Ditto on what Gio said.  Good luck, and enjoy the heat!

Oh, btw, we love pics of new stove installs....especially ones with the stove burning (hint, hint).  or as we like to say here, "no pics=it really didn't happen!"


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## krooser

I'm the kinda guy who run's from any product that gets great reviews from places like Consumer Reports, Amazon, etc.

Good luck and welcome aboard.


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## ke5hde

we also bought one of these stoves about 3 weeks ago. Same deal you got at TSC. Had it installed just a couple of hours after getting it home. not a bad stove i guess, it is our first one. The manual isn't all that great and there doesn't seem to be many people with them on here but so far so good. We installed the OAK last weekend although not sure if it helped much, but at least its not sucking cold air from all the gaps and cracks from our 100 year old house. i'm still trying to get the draft and pellet feed to just the right spot. Hopefully it all works out and we can say goodbye to oil!


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## Bobby

If I set mine on feed#2 I run the draft at #4, feed #3 turn draft #5, seems to keep the burn pot dark to light gray and alot cleaner. With the lower draft settings my window would get brown quick and harder to clean. The burn pot would be black and caked with ash.


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## gee7879

I myself bought a 5510 about 6 weeks ago and I love it. Had a few issues with it:  1) pellets would sometimes bounce out of burn pot, called US stove they said they are aware of the issue and are working on a revised burn pot assembly. 2) room blower is noisy, noisiest at startup, but seems to quiet dramatically after it gets warmed up. I love this thing, the style, the simple control, ease of use.etc. MADE IN THE U.S.A., would recommend it for the $1100 i spent on it it seems to be well worth it.
I also wired in a thermostat, which is great, set the stove on any heat range setting 2-5, once the room is up to preset temp it automatically turns down to heat range #1.


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## ke5hde

Got ours working well now. Took Burnpot's advice for the draft fan and no more smoldering mess on shutdown. If you're looking to put an OAK on your stove and can run direct out the wall from the stove then I reccomend using 1 7/8 exhaust pipe. Cheap and easy. We're using New England pellets from the Schuyler plant and they seem to be ok for now.


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## imacman

C'mon you US Stove people...we need to see PICS  Preferably of the stove burning...we LOVE pics 

No pic = it really didn't happen


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## ke5hde

here it is


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## jtakeman

ke5hde

Nice looking install. Thanks for sharing. we love to look at stoves. Expecially when there burning. 

By the way Welcome to the forums, We are very glad you could come and join us.

Stay warm
jay


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## Bkins

Jay,

You must have Superman eyes.  I can hardly make out a thing in the picture.  Know its a stove burning but thats all.

David


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## ke5hde

sorry it was way too bright with the flash. I'll get up a better one.


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## MCPO

How`s this?





http://www.pbase.com/image/119799286.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/image/119799286.jpg


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## Bkins

Gio said:
			
		

> How`s this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.pbase.com/image/119799286.jpg
> http://www.pbase.com/image/119799286.jpg



Very nice indeed.  David


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## imacman

Gio said:
			
		

> How`s this?



Nice!  Thanks for the pic.

Hey, wait a minute.......is that stove ke5hde's, or Gio's????????   :wow:


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## MCPO

macman said:
			
		

> Gio said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How`s this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice!  Thanks for the pic.
> 
> Hey, wait a minute.......is that stove ke5hde's, or Gio's????????   :wow:
Click to expand...


All it needed was just a little (actually a lot ) brightening of the shadows in Photoshop.


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## Inquire

There is a store in my area going out of business, they are offering the model 5510 and 5500 for the same price, any advice on which would be a better unit?


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## Bobby

Firestarter have you gone to the us stove.com. You might get a better idea from their site. I like my king 5510, it seems to do a great job.


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## Inquire

Couldn't tell from the company website. I have seen good reviews on the 5510, but nothing on the 5500. I think that i will just go with the 5510


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## Inquire

How big of an area are you heating with your 5510?


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## Bobby

I'm heating about 1400sq. feet and run it on heat range of 2


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## rayboggsjr

We have had a 5510 for about a year and we love it.


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## newf27

I bought a USSC 5510 2 weeks ago and have been running it since.  A lot of problems.  The burn pot fills with ash and can't run it much more than 24 hours without shutting it down to clean it out.  If I run it longer, the pellets spill out of the pot and things start to smoke.  I'm running the feed rate at 2, and that is all I can do or else it will plug the pot sooner.  I changed pellets and no difference.  Both pellet types were certified per the manual in terms of quality and rating.  I leave it on automatic. Have reset the stove to factory settings to see if that will make a difference.  Tried it at 3, 4 and 5.  It will burn well for 8 hours, then start to plug.  The entire pot will be caked full of ash.  The flame is  osciliating, which does not seem right, even after I clean it well.

Can anyone advise me as to the settings you put your 5510 on?  I'm going to try the ones suggested earlier on this forum to see what that does.

Newft 27 in Michigan.


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## ke5hde

newf27

Try adjusting the pellet feed rate. They don't say anything in the manual about it.
To do this you need to
PRESS THE HEAT RANGE AND AUX DOWN BUTTONS AT THE SAME TIME.
FACTORY DEFAULT IS 1.75 
YOU CAN VARY THIS RATE BY USING THE AUX UP/DOWN BUTTONS.
TRY GOING DOWN TO 1.40 AND SEE IF THAT HELPS.
TO SAVE THE SETTING JUST PRESS THE ON BUTTON.
Depending on the pellets we use we can go anywhere from 1.40 up as far as 2.00

You may also want to set the draft fan manually.
When we have the stove on 2 I have my draft set @ 4
On the higher heat settings I can run the draft on AUTO
See if this helps.

Chris


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## Bobby

Like firestarter say's try running your draft 2 numbers higher then your heat range. I just ran my 5510 for a week 24/7, just done a cleanning this morning. I'm burnning green teams from lowes.


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## Bobby

Sorry  I mean like ke5hde says. And make sure the two cleanout doors are closed tite


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## urkiddin

[quote author="ke5hde" date="1261855996"]newf27

Try adjusting the pellet feed rate. They don't say anything in the manual about it.
To do this you need to
PRESS THE HEAT RANGE AND AUX DOWN BUTTONS AT THE SAME TIME.
FACTORY DEFAULT IS 1.75 
YOU CAN VARY THIS RATE BY USING THE AUX UP/DOWN BUTTONS.
TRY GOING DOWN TO 1.40 AND SEE IF THAT HELPS.
TO SAVE THE SETTING JUST PRESS THE ON BUTTON.
Depending on the pellets we use we can go anywhere from 1.40 up as far as 2.00

.
thanks for the info.wonder why they don't include this kind of information in the manual.


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## caledoniacars

Good to see some us stove customers here.  They don't get rave reviews, but some of us have had some good luck with them.


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## ad356

for the price that us stove company products sell for they seem reasonably well made. i paid $999 for my 5510 from tractor supply and it heats my entire home. im sure stoves like the astoria are nicer but they are also almost 4 grand. i like US stove company products so far. seem reliable and are very very reasonably priced. the only disadvantage i can see with the 5510 is that its a litte on the noisy side. the BTU rating of the 5510 is also very competitve to the astoria's btu rating. for 1,000 bucks, i dont think you can go wrong, and i would recommend one to a freind. the only thing that remains for me to see is the longterm longevity of my stove. im hoping it lasts a long time


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## newf27

Thanks for the advice on feed rate:  it did help.  Set the temp rating at 2, then went into manual mode and dialed the feed rate down from factory pre-set of ~1.75 lbs per hour to 1.4. , t hen set the draft at 2.   I've run it 48 hours now which is longer than anything previous.  Going to start inching it up to see what happens.  I have a fairly large house, and I installed this in my walk out basement which is well insulated with ICF's and underfloor insulation (R 40 basement).  I'm running my propane furnace fan on manual full time and pulling heat out of the basement and circulating through the entire house.  My objective was to use the furnace at it's higher heat settings, which seems now to be an unlikely outcome.  I tried it for a period at heat setting 4 and 5 with the settings on auto, and it turns out an astonishing amount of heat, but the burn pot fills up quickly in 8 hours and plugs, so we can't leave the home for work without worrying about the pot overflowing with unburnt pellets.  Any other experience in the correct settings at the higher heat output?  Seems strange they would sell a furnace that has such a difficult time being dialed in, i.e. with a "narrow operating window".  We live in the UP of Michigan, and routinely get temps well below zero down to 25 below real temp, so I'm going to stick with trying to get this thing to perform without plugging at a higher heat setting.  Further advice is welcomed.
newf27


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## imacman

newf27 said:
			
		

> ....... I'm going to stick with trying to get this thing to perform without plugging at a higher heat setting.  Further advice is welcomed.
> newf27



Basically, it's getting overfilled w/ pellets due to a lack of burn air.  As you increase feed, you have to increase air somewhat to the burnpot, or the pellets will never fully burn, and results in a full pot & shut-off stove.

Most all pellet stoves have this problem unless the feed and burn air are tied together like the Englander digital control......as I raise the feed, the combustion blower increases accordingly to supply more air.


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## rayboggsjr

Newf27
Macman is correct. Your problem seems to be a lack of combustion air. We have been burning our 5510 for about a year and I can let it burn on auto at heat setting 2 and I shut it down about every three days to clean the ash but the fire is still good. I have to clean it more often because I got a really good deal on Big Heat pellets and they are a little ashy but burn fine.On setting 1 I change my draft fan to 2 or 3 and that seems to make it burn fine. The osculation you see in your flame is normal if you are seeing it go up and down. I called US Stoves about this when I got mine and it is a feature on the 5510. If you go out to your exhaust vent you will hear the draft fan come on and go off. You are right about the owners manual. It should be a little more in depth. You may want to call US Stoves and talk to tech support or customer service. I have had 2 issues with my stove and both times it was qiuck and painless. They give you no hassle and are happy to stand behind their product which is rare these days. You may have a defective draft fan. It may not be running at the preset speed in auto mode. Also they advised me to make sure all the joints on my exhaust piping was sealed with heat rated stove or fireplace caulking. You can buy this at most harware stores. Also make sure the 2 little doors on the back wall inside the stove are installed correctly, dont foget to clean behind those doors. The one on the left is where the pressure switch is to detect negative pessure in the combustion chamber. I think once you get your draft issue fixed you are going to be very happy with the stove. I hope this helps a little bit and good luck.


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## ke5hde

I just realized that the biggest change I made to the stove I forgot to mention.
I sealed the ash pan doors on the bottom closed.
When I was watching it burn one day I noticed that the doors were sucking air....piss poor seal...really no seal at all.
I took some of the same silicone I used on the vent and ran a bead around both of the doors.
Not the clean-out doors on the back but the ash slides on the bottom.
Try it and it just might help. If it doesn't then just peel the silicone back off.

Chris


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## Bobby

The ash doors on the bottom ride in little tracks. I pulled the doors open and squeed them a little with medium pump pliers. They don't leak so much air now. I'v also found buy not cleaning out the ash to much it helps


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## newf27

All the advice has been helpful.  To stick with the "not getting enough exhaust air flow" theory, I tried an experiment.  Set the draft fan to maximum setting of 500, then crancked up the feed rate to the minimum that would keep the fire burning.  I was able to get about 6 days of burn time and probably could have let it go longer.  Ash went from a darker black to a lighter grey and window stayed much cleaner.  That feed rate is 1.7 lbs per hour which would be roughly 40 lbs or 1 bag per day.  Although this measurement unit is not accurate, since the amount of pellets I'm burning is almost twice that at 2 bags a day (so much for accuracy).  I tried dropping the exhaust rate back to 400 and could see a change.  At the 400 - 500 exhaust level, there is no more oscilation, it seems to run flat out.  On a hunch similar to the advice given on sealing the combustion chamber, I tightened the two small access doors on the back, as the bolts they slide behind were adjusted from the factor rather far out on the threads, as a result they were loose and could pass pressure or draw air through in a vacuum:  I surmise this may have been causing some looping.  Since I don't use the ash doors in the floor (I cool it down and vacuum it out), I will try the suggestion to seal the floor ash doors.  Since I have a large house, my objective is to get as much heat as possible, so I'm now going to keep the exhaust flat out and keep cranking up the feed rate until I get to about 2-3 days when I need to clean it out.  I can live with that:  I've done it for short periods, and the heat output is astonishing.  The only negative, which is not too bad, is the flame seems to rise and fall (not the oscilation) but at about a 2 minute cycle:  it seems to over burn the pellets, nearly starve, then recover.  But hey, I'm getting 6 days where as before I could hardly get to 24 hours.  Incredible we have to figure this out on our own vs. there being a decent manual.  I will also try to call them: they are not responding to e-mails on their website.  This has been a good learning experience so now I can speak with intelligence about how the unit operates.  If anyone else has experience at the higher temps, let us know what your settings are.  We were able to keep the house at a comfy sleeping temp of 67 degrees all night when it was 8 below zero, real temp, and a howling wind.  Starting to have a real impact of offsetting propane.
Newf 27 in the cold UP of Michigan


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## newf27

Just to clarify some of my previous comments.  When I make reference to crank up the exhaust rate to 500;  this is the maximum speed, and it results in no more oscilation, the fan runs flat out.  There is no separate fan supplying feed rate air to the burn pot.  If you look in the back and shine a flashlight into the air feed tube (1 - 7/8 " inside diameter) you see it goes straight to the burn pot chamber.  I.e. the burn pots slides into a somewhat sealed chamber.  It is the exhaust fan that "pulls" air through the holes in the burn pot which in turns pulls it from the feed tube.  The higher the exhaust rate, the higher the vacuum pulled through the burn pot holes.  The higher this air flow out the exhaust, the better job it does of suspending and pulling the ash out of the burn pot so it can't accumulate.  That is what causes these things to fill up with unburn't pellets, the ash is not being removed from the burn pot and it plugs the air flow, then the unburnt pellets start to accumulate.  All the advice to take steps to create a better seal on leaks into the comustion chamber will have an effect of pulling more vacuum through the burn pot and helping the ash evacuate more easily out the exhaust.  Seems that if we could tighten the clearances on the burn pot where it fits into the steel box, we could further improve this dynamic.  But, it has to be removed for cleaning, so good luck figuring this one out.  I'm going to chamfer the inside radius right at the inlet (I am pulling from my room vs outside air), it should help, i.e. like the inlet to a jet engine vs. sharp edges on the end of the pipe.  It should increase air flow 2-3 %, based on some previous research I did in this area in my previous pre-retirement life.  Every little bit helps.  Sealing vacuum air leaks in the chamber should help the most.
Newf 27 in the cold UP of Michigan


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## schoondog

Here is a pic of my 6039i. Nice to see the US Stove folks are growing!!

Schoondog


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## imacman

Nice stove set-up Schoon. Yep, seems like more & more US Stove owners are showing up on the forum.....good for you guys!

 Amazing how the animals always know where to hang out.....LOL.


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## mrmuse

Good Morning,
Being a newbie and not owning a pellet stove yet, I've been doing a lot of research.  I'm finding the reviews very helpful and hope to purchase a Model 5510 very soon.  
Here is the problem.  As I'm researching, I'm finding a HUGE price difference.  TSC sells this model in my area for $999.00, and I've seen it as high as $2399.00.  
I'm curious as to why pellet stoves are so much more expensive that a gas furnace, or even a wood burning stove.  Also, being in West Michigan with an unemployment
rate of 18% I am looking for a dealer that offers financing, or a payment plan.  Can anyone point me in the right direction.  I installed a new propane furnace (burned wood
for the last 15 years) but at a $1.64 a gallon and a 200 gal minimum order to achieve that price, and only lasting 2 months, it makes sense to go the pellet route.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.  And just an observation, but a $1500.00 tax credit to someone on unemployment trying to make ends meet makes no sense.  I can't
afford that initial outlay to save 75.00 a month...I'm just trying to get out of that rock and a hard place.

mrmuse


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## newf27

To report progress:  I  tried the suggestions to seal up the ash doors in the floor of the 5510.  Wow, did that make a difference.  I also sealed the small gap in the ignitor tube where it comes through the back wall. Using furnace cement which is sort of a combination of high temp plastic putty and cement.  The only caution I have with that stuff is it is rather permanent and hard to remove if you don't like the outcome.  The outcome is that I now have TOO MUCH air flow through the burn pot at the highest flow of 500.   So much so that it emptied the pot and I lost the fire.  In fact, even at 300 it is almost bit too much.  That tells you how much it was leaking.  The new problem at the higher exhaust flow rates is it will elevate the pellets right out of the pot as soon as they begin to glow, and when new pellets drop in it disturbes the glowing pellets and the smaller ones will elevate out.  Well, I'm now satisfied I've got exhaust flow capability, now need to dial in new target air flow and feed rates to get it all leveld out again.  The good news is I am indeed able to get burn times of 3-5 days without the pot clogging with ash almost regardless of the heat range I set, and probably could go a lot longer.  Seems like a clean out frequency of about 3 days is optimum, given my high feed rate.  I can live with that.  I'm able to base load my home with about 95% reliance on the 5510, and use the propane to top it off when my wife cranks the thermostate to 71 degrees.  On our cold nights, the 5510 easily keeps the home at 67 to 68 degrees, which is a comfy sleeping temp.  Really slowed down the propane $$.  I'm burning about two 40 lb bags a day, but I'm probably cranking >40,000 BTU's or more constantly 24/7.
Newf 27 in the cold UP of Michigan

PS to previous question about financing.   I bought this 5510 from TSC about 4 weeks ago for the $999 mentioned, and thought they had financing available there.


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## ke5hde

Good to see you got it running better.
I had my first problem with ours last night.
Shut it down for a cleaning and when I started back up....NO IGNITOR!
Manually lit the stove and made a call to US Stoves this morning.
Quick and painless...will have the new ignitor in 3-5 days.

Running a couple of bags of Greene Teams right now and WOW.
Just like every other brand I've tried..totally outperforming the Schuyler NEWP's

Chris


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## newf27

Agree, big hopper is a plus.  It is what attracted me to the 5510 to begin with.  I'm sure you already know this, but there is a timing factor after shut down before the ignitor will come on again.  If all lights are off and nothing is blinking, it should have ignited on a restart.  I find that a pain in the rear, since I can do a cleaning while things are still on the ramp down.   Good to hear the factory is responsive.

Where do you buy your Greene team pellets?  I've not seen those in the midwest or the UP of Michigan.  Tried Tractor Supply brand, they are OK.  Tried Home Depot, they were a little bit better.  Paying $188 per ton at TSC, I think that is a good price.  Sure a lot better than all the wood I was cutting and splitting, whew!  Burned 10 full cords last year.  So much for the twice warmed thinking:  twice driven into the ground, twice the dirt, twice the headache, twice the backaches, and 20X the time!


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## ke5hde

Got the Greene Team and Marth's at Lowes.
I think they were 4.58 a bag..both brands.

Stove was off for well over a hour. Did see it glow real dim for a minute and that was it.Checked the fuse and it was fine so we'll see in a few days how it goes.


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## newf27

Got it;   nearest Lowes is 50 miles north in Marquette Michigan.  I get there from time to time, so I'll see if they have it.  At Tractor Supply their pellets are $188 per ton, or $3.76 per bag, so I'll be interested in the comparison.  They just opened a store about 30 miles from here and it's where I purchased the 5510 USSC stove.  What is interesting is the local Home Depot store was well over $4.00 a bag, and quickly lowered their price when TSC opened.  What does that tell you....Maybe I can show them and they will price match.
There is a local company that makes them, but they are pine softwood, although completely kiln dried before hand.  I suspect the BTU value may be lower.  Will try them also.
As they say, we are "in the middle of no-where"
Good luck on the ignitor.


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## toyotagearhead62

hello everyone 
I live in vermont and we got a 5510 back in oct.09 we paid 1699.00 and we pay 289.00 aton for pellets 
we have had nothing but problems with our unit with what seems to be the common problem on here 
the burn pot not burning completly and filling with ash and unburnt pellets , but thanks to your posts 
I have now got it working great , the think the most improvement came after sealing the ash doors and tighting the screws that 
hold the clean out doors ,I have adjusted the feed rate and the draft fan and so far so good by the way it was 3 below this morning 
when I started this project with very little heat because i started this last night by adjusting the feed rate 
not much sucess but when i seal those doors hold on it was like turning on a switch 
I want you all to feel my thanks 
with out your help I would be waiting till monday to call us stove witch I have found to be helpfull but not open on the weekend 
and this stove heats our home so thank you guys so much 
also I had the igniter fail also


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## jtakeman

toyotagearhead62 said:
			
		

> hello everyone
> I live in vermont and we got a 5510 back in oct.09 we paid 1699.00 and we pay 289.00 aton for pellets
> we have had nothing but problems with our unit with what seems to be the common problem on here
> the burn pot not burning completly and filling with ash and unburnt pellets , but thanks to your posts
> I have now got it working great , the think the most improvement came after sealing the ash doors and tighting the screws that
> hold the clean out doors ,I have adjusted the feed rate and the draft fan and so far so good by the way it was 3 below this morning
> when I started this project with very little heat because i started this last night by adjusting the feed rate
> not much sucess but when i seal those doors hold on it was like turning on a switch
> I want you all to feel my thanks
> with out your help I would be waiting till monday to call us stove witch I have found to be helpfull but not open on the weekend
> and this stove heats our home so thank you guys so much
> also I had the igniter fail also



Glad the members here all work together and share what they found. You all deserve kudo's from the rest of us! Thanks is in order! It makes hearth.com a great place to be at. Tell all your freinds and we will be the best on the planet(might be there already)! One big happy family too!

Great to hear your running top notch now.


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## urkiddin

Just gave my 5510 a good cleaning out.i took the vent apart from stove to outside cap and gave it a good cleaning.i couldn't believe the grunge in it.i also sealed the ash slides.what a difference now.i picked up over 50 degrees in temp on 2 setting.only thing is now the draft sounds like a jet until the room fan kicks in.gonna have to keep an eye on the little dog or it might just suck him into the stove.


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## ke5hde

Good to see that we're starting to get a handle on these stoves.
Happy to help any way I can, now to see how long they last.

Chris


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## newf27

Agree with the temp rise after sealing the ash doors.  What is going on (I believe) is that it enables you to lower the exhaust fan speed (because it is doing a better job of pulling air through the burn pot vs through the ash doors) resulting not only in a hotter burn (as evidenced by a number of us seeing less ash build up in the pot), but by turning down the exhaust speed for the same feed rate, you are actually pulling less heated air out of the room.  I did not put a temp guage on my stove, but can sure feel the increase in temp.  The thermometer I have in the room showed a 3 degree increase at a lower burn rate.  My maximum heat I could achieve in my large house went from 67 Degrees to 69 degrees, using just the 5510 and now with no topping off using the propane furnace on a thermostat.  So, I'm getting happier by the minute.
Still think USSC should figure all of this out for us, vs. us having to play Sherlock Holmes on how to run these things.  But, great forum to help solve this.  I was getting real disapointed after buying it  until I stumbled onto this forum.  Thanks for the info to all.

Newf27 in the cold Upper Penninsula of Michigan

PS:  I'm going to go plow some snow with my new BOSS snowplow.  Best plow on earth.


----------



## markstantonsr

im new here so im not sure how this works yet. just got my 5510 installed last thursday. love it so far, but do have a few questions. have tried 3 different type of pellets so far nd have found the somersets burn best. the main problems i have is the burn pot clogs up after about 10 hours of use nd then the glass in the viewing window gets covered in soot. is this a normal problem or do i need to have someone come in nd look at it. this is the first stove i have ever owned. i dont mind the cleaning but twice a day is a pain nd the soot in the glass looks crappy. i will take a few pics the next time before i clean it nd post them. any nd all help would be great thanks.


----------



## urkiddin

big buck said:
			
		

> im new here so im not sure how this works yet. just got my 5510 installed last thursday. love it so far, but do have a few questions. have tried 3 different type of pellets so far nd have found the somersets burn best. the main problems i have is the burn pot clogs up after about 10 hours of use nd then the glass in the viewing window gets covered in soot. is this a normal problem or do i need to have someone come in nd look at it. this is the first stove i have ever owned. i dont mind the cleaning but twice a day is a pain nd the soot in the glass looks crappy. i will take a few pics the next time before i clean it nd post them. any nd all help would be great thanks.



i had the same problem.i've tweeked it with some of the ideas i read in this thread.i think the biggest difference came after i sealed the bottom ash slides.mines been burning all nite and this morning i could still see the holes in the bottom of the burnpot.in fact i had to turn it down to the 1 setting as it was 75 in the living room on 2.got up this morning and it's still 70.you really have to play with these things.this forum will get you started in the right direction for sure.


----------



## ke5hde

big buck said:
			
		

> im new here so im not sure how this works yet. just got my 5510 installed last thursday. love it so far, but do have a few questions. have tried 3 different type of pellets so far nd have found the somersets burn best. the main problems i have is the burn pot clogs up after about 10 hours of use nd then the glass in the viewing window gets covered in soot. is this a normal problem or do i need to have someone come in nd look at it. this is the first stove i have ever owned. i dont mind the cleaning but twice a day is a pain nd the soot in the glass looks crappy. i will take a few pics the next time before i clean it nd post them. any nd all help would be great thanks.



You should definitely read this thread from beginning to end.
All of us have expirimented with the stove and so far sealing the ash pan slides seems to really help the most.
I have found that if you run it on the lower settings (1-2) the glass will get dirty fast. Running at higher temps. should help the glass.
Mine has been running non stop since Sun. am and will keep going till I clean it out Wed. pm.
This is how it runs every week.

Now if the darn ignitor would get here I would be happy  

Chris


----------



## urkiddin

ke5hde said:
			
		

> big buck said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im new here so im not sure how this works yet. just got my 5510 installed last thursday. love it so far, but do have a few questions. have tried 3 different type of pellets so far nd have found the somersets burn best. the main problems i have is the burn pot clogs up after about 10 hours of use nd then the glass in the viewing window gets covered in soot. is this a normal problem or do i need to have someone come in nd look at it. this is the first stove i have ever owned. i dont mind the cleaning but twice a day is a pain nd the soot in the glass looks crappy. i will take a few pics the next time before i clean it nd post them. any nd all help would be great thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should definitely read this thread from beginning to end.
> All of us have expirimented with the stove and so far sealing the ash pan slides seems to really help the most.
> I have found that if you run it on the lower settings (1-2) the glass will get dirty fast. Running at higher temps. should help the glass.
> Mine has been running non stop since Sun. am and will keep going till I clean it out Wed. pm.
> This is how it runs every week.
> 
> Now if the darn ignitor would get here I would be happy
> 
> Chris
Click to expand...


if i run mine any higher than i'll have to stand outside.just for giggles today i set it up on 3.the magnetic thermometer i have attached to it went up to 400 deg.had to leave the room.thought i'd need a fire suit to get near it to turn it down.right now i'm running mine on 2 and went back to factory setting for feed rate.the draft is set at 2 and room blower at 3.it's 72 in the living rm and the farthest room is at 68.man i love it.


----------



## newf27

Agree with the comments regarding best improvement came from sealing the ash door.  I had exactly the same problems with the pot clogging with ash as early as 12 hours.  I now get at least 3 days on the lower settings and have gone as long as 5.  I routinely clean every 3 days which I can live with because it does improve burn quality and heat output.  The higher heat settings indeed keep the window cleaner, and for those of us who use it to heat a larger space, it works.  

Separately: 
I'm of the opinion that we could learn more about the so called feed rate and exhaust fan speed when setting it manually.  I'm not convinced it stays as set when you increase the heat setting separately up or down.  For example, if I first manually set the feed rate to 1.7 lbs per hour, on @ #2 heat setting and set the exhaust at 240, it burns about 70 lbs per day.  If I hold the feed rate and exhuast fan settings the same but move the heat rate buttom up to a #3 or #4, and then check the feed rate and exhaust fan speed to insure it has not changed and re-set it to insure it is locked in, it definently does feed more pellets and the heat goes up.  So, there must be some sort of over ride in the control logic.  Are we shure the # is reflecting pounds per hour?  When I run the stove on a higher heat setting such as #4 with these same settings it chews up nearly 3 bags per day or about 110 lbs.  So something else is still being influenced by the Heat Rate number where you lock in a manual feed rate or exhaust rate setting.  Am I making sense?  (I know, who cares if it is running better).

A quirk that I have not yet figured out.


----------



## ke5hde

When you change the min. feed rate it is the feed rate for the lowest setting of the stove.
When changing the max. feed rate you are setting the rate for the highest setting on the stove.
Mine is set for 1.75 min and 5.00 max.
According to the manual the stove has a feed of 2.0-6.0 lbs. a hr.
I bumped up my max to get the claimed 48000 btu.
Of course 48000 is in a perfect world and I just don't have that here.   
Same goes for the draft fan. You are setting the max and min for the fan.
You'll have to do some math to figure it all out.

Got the new ignitor today. Good timing since it's cleaning day and I have to shut it down anyway.

Chris


----------



## ddap1200

have had king pellett 5510 for about a year,would like to know exactly how to set the exhaust fan at full on?read forum here,and no real clear way to do it.i know how to change pellet feed rate,not sure on that exhaust one.us stove not much help on problems with this stove,glad to see other people with same unit.on mine i drilled the burn pot holes only slightly larger,welded ash pan that it sits in closed where they put it together.new,they only weld corners to keep the box form.also,have tightened up ash slide drawers on bottom.these improvements made big differences,no more pellets building up so much!had to experiment on my own for these things.other than lack of real good help from company,we do like the stove,it helps heat our store front approx 1800 sq ft.thanks for any help or answers in advanced.


----------



## ke5hde

To change the draft max you have to press the upper draft and upper aux buttons.
Use the aux. button to change the setting.
Make sure to press ON to save your setting.

Chris


----------



## newf27

Thanks Chris:  So if I got this right, we can manually change the upper and lower range for both feed rate and exhaust fan speed.  Original factory setting range for example on feed rate is 2-6 lbs per hour.  At each Heat Rating level, 1-5, the stove logic picks from a pre-set level within that range to deliver increased heat from each level.  So, if we reduce both the lower and upper feed rate, such as (just an example) putting it from 1 - 4 lbs an hour, it would then select a lower feed rate at each Heat Range setting.   Same true for exhaust fan speed.  

That explains why I was still seeing a definite change in heat when I would bump up the Heat range even though I still saw no change in my settings.  

Thanks, this makes a heck of a lot of sense.  That gives me a whole new set of experiments to tune this thing in.  Where did you learn this, from  trial error or from the factory?

Newf27


----------



## ke5hde

Learned from trial and error....mine and others.  

Got the new ignitor in and the stove is up and running.
Just finished doing the happy dance.  :lol: 

As soon as I pulled it out it was pretty obvious. We have heater elements at work on our branders and they get to looking 
the same way. But when they go it's usually with alot of sparks and a bang. Not good in a sawmill. Ours are much bigger 1500 watts @ 477 volts!

You can see the ignitor is DEAD! 






Burn pot after 4 days


----------



## ddap1200

hey,thanks for the info on the exh fan setting!! set it already,and running it now.will post later and share results.


----------



## newf27

That looks pretty good after 4 days Chris.  Do you get a solid residue building up on the sides that sometimes actually has to be scrapped off?  Mine lights up like a sparkler if I pull the pot while it is still hot and I start scrapping this stuff off.  It is what plugs the pot.  The fact you have so many holes still open on the bottom looks good.

Newf27 in the cold UP of Michigan


----------



## ke5hde

It's not really solid. I can get most of it with the vac. Have to do a little scrapping but not too much.
That pic was after burning a mix of pellets...NEWP, Greene Teams, Marth and Ligs.

ddap1200
Be careful turning the fan up too high or you will just blow all your heat right out the vent.
Good luck

Chris


----------



## ad356

awesome thread guys. some excellent information for anyone that owns one of these stoves. i have had similar problems with really bad clinkers. i closed off the ash pan drawers, performance is much much better now. i no longer get clinkers, as far as i can tell. stove has been running almost 12 hours, something i could never do before. it also seems to be producing more heat. at heat setting 3, room temp is 74 in the living room, 67 in the dining room, and at least 65 in the kitchen. outside temp isnt that cold tonight though, so i will see how it works when it gets cold again. i now notice that its burning the pellets completely and forcing the spent pellets out of the burnpot, which i believe is how these things are supposed to work. when the pellets gets really tiny it gets pushed out by the air stream. i think this is nice, high quality stove that works well when the ash pan is closed off. i think the ash pan is a poorly engineered item and they should have tested it better. they should redesign their ash pan doors and give their customers the redesigned ash pan doors free of charge. i wonder how many of these stoves exist that have this design flaw, and how many of their customers arent dissatified with their stoves for this reason. i could see their being allot of people upset with the performance of their stove, not knowing why. this forum is a blessing and im glad im not the only person that has one of these otherwise great stoves. they certainlly are hard to beat for the price, i could never in a million years buy a nice furance for the price of this stove. im going to keep her burning all night and i will give you guys an update.

my solution to the ash pan door issue was to remove the slides and bend them so the hold the doors extremely tightly to the inside of the firebox. doors are no imobile, and i dont care. i just wanted my stove to function properly. vaccuming it out once every 2-3 days doesnt bother me.

my neighbor has a 5500 stove, same stove but without ash pan. he has had zero problems with clinkers and it runs constantly. the ash pan is really the key to this stove's poor performance.


----------



## urkiddin

has anyone else with a 5510 noticed that the heat output is higher if you keep the hopper full? i'm thinking that the pellets help insulate the heat chamber.


----------



## ddap1200

well it seems to temporarily,as eventually it chokes due to the ash clogging the bottom and not being able to get pulled out the top from the exhaust fan .then it seems to burn slower and then overfill the pot.


----------



## iceman_1227

ok, i read threw this topic a few times. I tried manually reseting the heat range. You guys mentioned your default heat range was 1.75, mine is 4.5. 

Can someone give me a example of there setting on 3. 

What is your heat range set at.
Draft fan
room fan.

I would like a generic setting to try out, to get the maximum out of my pellet stove without cleaning all the time. Thanks all


----------



## urkiddin

ddap1200 said:
			
		

> well it seems to temporarily,as eventually it chokes due to the ash clogging the bottom and not being able to get pulled out the top from the exhaust fan .then it seems to burn slower and then overfill the pot.



since i closed up the bottom ash slides like ke5He suggested the burnpot never never clogs up.


----------



## urkiddin

iceman_1227 said:
			
		

> ok, i read threw this topic a few times. I tried manually reseting the heat range. You guys mentioned your default heat range was 1.75, mine is 4.5.
> 
> Can someone give me a example of there setting on 3.
> 
> What is your heat range set at.
> Draft fan
> room fan.
> 
> I would like a generic setting to try out, to get the maximum out of my pellet stove without cleaning all the time. Thanks all


when i run mine on hr3 the room fan sets itself to 5.anything 3 or higher seems to keep the room fan 2 settings higher than the heat setting.anyway i usually keep my draft setting 1 or 2 settings higher than the heat setting when it is set at hr1 or hr2.i'm burning Ligs right now so that could maybe change with a different pellet.you could also try sealing your bottom ash slides like the previous posts.i did mine and it really made a difference in cleanouts.only have to clean once a week now.


----------



## ke5hde

iceman_1227 said:
			
		

> ok, i read threw this topic a few times. I tried manually reseting the heat range. You guys mentioned your default heat range was 1.75, mine is 4.5.
> 
> Can someone give me a example of there setting on 3.
> 
> What is your heat range set at.
> Draft fan
> room fan.
> 
> I would like a generic setting to try out, to get the maximum out of my pellet stove without cleaning all the time. Thanks all



You wont really be adjusting the heat range. It will actually be the feed rate the pellets are delivered.
Default LOW setting is 1.75
Default HIGH setting is 4.5
To get to the low setting you need to press and hold the LOWER aux and heat buttons.
To change it use the up or down aux buttons and press ON to save.
My stove is set @ 1.45 low and 5.0 high

My draft and room are set to auto.
Lower limit on draft set @ 100 and upper limit set @ 335

You will have to experiment with these settings depending on pellet brand and your stove/vent setup.

Chris


----------



## iceman_1227

Thank you all for your help, 

I will seal the bottom doors tommorow. The back doors you all left alone?  What did you guys use to seal up the doors?



Funny, thing is my ignitor took a dive yesterday as well, i am manually lighting it. Called us stove and they are sending me a new one with no hassle. So far so good. I will let you guys know how all works out, once i find what to seal with. let me know


----------



## urkiddin

iceman_1227 said:
			
		

> Thank you all for your help,
> 
> I will seal the bottom doors tommorow. The back doors you all left alone?  What did you guys use to seal up the doors?
> 
> 
> 
> Funny, thing is my ignitor took a dive yesterday as well, i am manually lighting it. Called us stove and they are sending me a new one with no hassle. So far so good. I will let you guys know how all works out, once i find what to seal with. let me know



i used the stuff that i sealed my vent joints with .Rutland direct vent seal.i just gooped it on around the slide and smoothed it out with a finger.it's black so u hardly notice it.it remains soft so u can remove it if u want.


----------



## mooselake

I've had a 5510 for almost a year and a half, and am very happy with it.  My neighbor has a breckwell, about 3x as expensive, and he thinks his is prettier but mine heats just as well. 

I've called USSC a few times with questions, and gotten great response - including them replacing parts under warranty after I told them I broke them, it was my fault, and I'd pay for the replacements.  They just don't want to take any more of my money...

The first igniter lasted just under a full heating season, USSC replaced it without any problems.  They are supposedly good for about a year.

I have a cheap probe-type digital oven thermometer bag-tied in the middle of the output air vent, and get about 100 degree air out on HR1.  The room air fan is always on 9, more noise but the extra air sucks a lot more heat out of the stove.

The door latch mechanism isn't very good.  There's a lot of discussion about USSC multi-fuel stoves on iburncorn.com, which are pretty similar to the 5510.   Several there have had good luck tightening the door by tapping on the latch casting.  I managed to break it, even being careful.  I shimmed under the top of the free replacement with some pieces of brass sheet, and got a 10 degree output air temp increase.  I'll tighten up the ash slides and see if that helps, but mine was pretty tight out of the factory.  I don't think the cleanout doors would make a big difference as long as they're closed properly - they block access to the heat exchanger, not draft air.

The stove is vented directly into a masonry chimney, not a good way to vent it.  It's temporary while it's final home is finished.   The 40' chimney builds up a fly ash layer inside, and gets cleaned every month or so, wirebrush up from the bottom.

With Marth and Badger pellets the burn pot got a hard lining and ash buildup.  We soaked it in warm water followed by a quick screwdriver scrape of the leftovers.  This year we got a good deal on Wood Fibers, Inc pellets (out of Niagara, WI).  They aren't certified, have the same ash and heat output as the other two, but are softer and clump up pretty bad if they get even a bit damp.  No ash or other buildup in the burnpot, either.

When you clean the stove it's important to pull the slides on the back wall and vacuum everything out well.  Tapping on the back of the firebox helps loosen it up.  I've got a cheap ($80) Northern Tool ash vac with some 1/2" clear plastic tubing duct taped on the hose that will get back into the heat exchanger (there's openings high up in the back, in both corners, where the metal bends back, one of those mirrors on a stick helps to find  them).   Ash is an insulator, so it really helps to get it cleaned out.

There are heat exchanger mods for the other USSC stoves to boost the air temp, but I haven't found one for the 5510.  Look for chickendave on the other forum for info on one of them.  I'm waiting for the warranty to run out before trying anything.

Glad to see somebody else has one of these!


----------



## iceman_1227

Pain in the butt liteing manually, hopefully that ignitor gets here soon. Sealing the bottom doors made a big diffrence. Thanks for all your help forum


----------



## Brian_YZ

Picked up  a 5510 the other day after much thought and debate, etc....
Been reading this forum gathering information for the last few months to help me pick out the right stove.  But the more you learn, the more questions seem to arise. 

Real quick, live in a pole barn type home (1300 sq ft on a slab) with a very open floor plan that is about three years old.  Very well insulated, walls are 9 inches thick, with about 2 ft of insulation in the attic.  The house is 100% electric and has a heat pump, with a backup furnace in the attic.  If the outside temp drops to around 35 degrees, have to switch to the backup furnace (which gets expensive).  Before I bought this home I was planning to build a similar home and was considering a pellet stove as a secondary source of heat. With this new home, I'm in a fairly rural part of the county, and I'm being told when power goes out, it usually is out for a few days if it is a major outage.  So I remembered the research on the pellet stoves and decided it would be a good idea to pick one up to help take the edge off on those cold days, plus I'd be able to use it if power goes out (using a ups and generator.... but that is down the road).  Considered the St Croix, Avalon, Breckwell, etc... but all the stoves seemed to have problems, but the 5510 kept coming up as a good option given my situation, and was priced right.

anyways, going to hook it up here in the next few days and I have a couple questions I need answered or some further clarification.

1.  Bought the Simpson pellet stove vent kit at TSC at the same time as the stove.  Comes with elbows, thimble, clean-out, straight pieces, etc.  The manual says to use NO MORE than 180 degrees of elbows.  I'm very limited on where I can put the stove, so I am putting it in a corner.  I'm going to come off of the stove with the short appliance adapter, then a 45 degree elbow, then 2 ft. horizontally through the wall thimble, into the clean-out (90 degree to switch to vertical), 4 ft of straight, 90 degree elbow to hook up the vent hood.
Problem is, with the required clean-out and elbow for the vent, I'm at that 180 degree limit.  Will the extra 45 degrees hurt the flow enough to reduce the performance of the stove?  and do I need to hook up the air intake to draw outside air?  

2.  The pellet pipe manual states there should be 3 screws per joint.  Looking at the pipe the way it twists and locks together, I would think using a screw that will penetrate both walls of the pipe could lead to more problems than relying on the built-in locking mechanism of the pipe itself.  Planned on just using RTV on all of the joints and calling it good, but what are you guys doing?

3.  The connection from the 3 inch aluminum exhaust blower assembly to the first piece of exhaust pipe.... I don't see a good way to "attach" that pipe to the stove.  It looks like a hose clamp would just crush the first layer of the pellet pipe, without applying any real clamping force.  Are you supposed to drill and install three screws into the blower housing, or just rely on the weight of the stove and just shove it on there and hope it doesn't come loose?  
Both manuals for the stove and pipe are very vague. 

4.  And about the ash doors being sealed to improve the stove (main reason I chose this stove)... I'm unclear if they are being sealed shut, or just adding RTV  around the track to "tighten" them up.  A little clarification would help me when I get ready to hook the stove up.

5. I've seen references to hooking up a wall thermostat to control the pellet stove, but nothing in the manual.  I'm assuming somewhere behind a panel somewhere there is a hook up for one.  Has anyone added one and is it as simple as one would think?

Hopefully it works out as planned and I won't have to call the fire department upon start up.  Living in a rural area I'm sure the response time is long


----------



## imacman

Brian_YZ said:
			
		

> Picked up  a 5510 the other day after much thought and debate, etc....
> Been reading this forum gathering information for the last few months to help me pick out the right stove.  But the more you learn, the more questions seem to arise.
> 
> Real quick, live in a pole barn type home (1300 sq ft on a slab) with a very open floor plan that is about three years old.  Very well insulated, walls are 9 inches thick, with about 2 ft of insulation in the attic.  The house is 100% electric and has a heat pump, with a backup furnace in the attic.  If the outside temp drops to around 35 degrees, have to switch to the backup furnace (which gets expensive).  Before I bought this home I was planning to build a similar home and was considering a pellet stove as a secondary source of heat. With this new home, I'm in a fairly rural part of the county, and I'm being told when power goes out, it usually is out for a few days if it is a major outage.  So I remembered the research on the pellet stoves and decided it would be a good idea to pick one up to help take the edge off on those cold days, plus I'd be able to use it if power goes out (using a ups and generator.... but that is down the road).  Considered the St Croix, Avalon, Breckwell, etc... but all the stoves seemed to have problems, but the 5510 kept coming up as a good option given my situation, and was priced right.
> 
> anyways, going to hook it up here in the next few days and I have a couple questions I need answered or some further clarification.
> 
> 1.  Bought the Simpson pellet stove vent kit at TSC at the same time as the stove.  Comes with elbows, thimble, clean-out, straight pieces, etc.  The manual says to use NO MORE than 180 degrees of elbows.  I'm very limited on where I can put the stove, so I am putting it in a corner.  I'm going to come off of the stove with the short appliance adapter, then a 45 degree elbow, then 2 ft. horizontally through the wall thimble, into the clean-out (90 degree to switch to vertical), 4 ft of straight, 90 degree elbow to hook up the vent hood.
> Problem is, with the required clean-out and elbow for the vent, I'm at that 180 degree limit.  Will the extra 45 degrees hurt the flow enough to reduce the performance of the stove?  and do I need to hook up the air intake to draw outside air?
> 
> 2.  The pellet pipe manual states there should be 3 screws per joint.  Looking at the pipe the way it twists and locks together, I would think using a screw that will penetrate both walls of the pipe could lead to more problems than relying on the built-in locking mechanism of the pipe itself.  Planned on just using RTV on all of the joints and calling it good, but what are you guys doing?
> 
> 3.  The connection from the 3 inch aluminum exhaust blower assembly to the first piece of exhaust pipe.... I don't see a good way to "attach" that pipe to the stove.  It looks like a hose clamp would just crush the first layer of the pellet pipe, without applying any real clamping force.  Are you supposed to drill and install three screws into the blower housing, or just rely on the weight of the stove and just shove it on there and hope it doesn't come loose?
> Both manuals for the stove and pipe are very vague.
> 
> 4.  And about the ash doors being sealed to improve the stove (main reason I chose this stove)... I'm unclear if they are being sealed shut, or just adding RTV  around the track to "tighten" them up.  A little clarification would help me when I get ready to hook the stove up.
> 
> 5. I've seen references to hooking up a wall thermostat to control the pellet stove, but nothing in the manual.  I'm assuming somewhere behind a panel somewhere there is a hook up for one.  Has anyone added one and is it as simple as one would think?
> 
> Hopefully it works out as planned and I won't have to call the fire department upon start up.  Living in a rural area I'm sure the response time is long



1.  The EVL of your pipe comes out to 16.5  .......that's a little high, but not too bad.  I think you'll be OK. 

2.  silicone the joints, twist together, and I think you'll be OK.  Most of the leaks will be in the appliance adapter or the cleanout T, if any.  Since most of your pipe is outdoors, just keep an eye on the appliance adapter.  (you DO have CO detectors installed in all levels, and especially near bedrooms, right?).

3.  The appliance adapter should just slide onto the exhaust blower outlet pipe.  Smear Hi temp silicone onto the outside of the exhaust pipe, slide the appliance adapter on til it stops, and then drill & install 3 sheet metal screws through that into the exhaust pipe. (I put a pic of mine below)

4.  I have no idea.

5.  It took me a while, but I finally saw ONE reference to a thermostat in your manual: "When the heater is in the manual mode, the optional thermostat will not properly control the unit."   So, somewhere on your control board, there must be 2 screw terminals to attach a thermostat and run in the "auto" setting.  Otherwise, you have to switch the stove to "manual".

Hope this helps.


----------



## urkiddin

what i did to seal the ash doors was to put a bead of rtv all around the edge of the slide.i did this with the ash slides shut so i guess they are being sealed shut.then i just smoothed it out with my finger to like you would if you were caulking a shower to force a little into the edges and make it look a little neater.i used Rutland vent seal.it's black and remains soft so it's easy to remove if you need to.just remember not to seal the back ash doors(the vertical ones).the only thing about sealing them is the ash drawer is un-useable.it's not a big deal for me though as i just use a vac after it cools down.


----------



## kmeckes

Hello Guys,
Great to see a forum on the 5510.....Been using the info, and really enjoying reading the posts and suggestions....Thanks
I have a question though, has anyone attempted to put a speed controller (rheostat) inline with the room fan......Was thinking about putting an inline rheostat with the room fan, mounting it on the side of the stove, just so I could slightly decrease the fan speed when we are in the room and do not want all the noise.....Do you think it would cause the heat exchanger to fail???? 
Curious what you guys think,


----------



## ke5hde

kenny m said:
			
		

> Hello Guys,
> Great to see a forum on the 5510.....Been using the info, and really enjoying reading the posts and suggestions....Thanks
> I have a question though, has anyone attempted to put a speed controller (rheostat) inline with the room fan......Was thinking about putting an inline rheostat with the room fan, mounting it on the side of the stove, just so I could slightly decrease the fan speed when we are in the room and do not want all the noise.....Do you think it would cause the heat exchanger to fail????
> Curious what you guys think,



Been a while since I've been on here. The snow is flying and I'm trying to get some "seat time" in while I can.  

If it were me,I wouldn't.
You would be better off just manually adjusting the fan.
Just doesnt seem like the extra work of wiring it in is worth it.

Chris


----------



## scooby4ever

I've had my 5510 since Nov 09..I'm now experiencing a metal scraping sound, intermittently while it's running.
It does this on and off at no particular time...and not just when the auger is turning.
any ideas...I haven't changed pellets, and I clean it religiously every Sunday. I've even gone to letting the hopper empty out completely, and sticking the vac hose into the auger space, to suck out all the possible dust that collects in there...with no better results. I called the customer service line and they were no help at all...
help please
Thanks, Randy


----------



## kmeckes

I had a metal scraping sound in my 5510 intermitently as well......The room fan blower has a "finger guard" which prevents you from sticking your fingers into the fan assembly....Well the tolerance is so tight, that sometimes the finger guard scrapes on the fan...Try to determine if it may be the room fan, the room fan turns on after the unit comes up to operating temperature, that is when I heard the scraping noise.............If it is, you can reomove the room fan, pretty easy, and if it is the problem you can remove the finger guard and bend it slightly so it does not rub......You can also request a replacement blower from US Stoves, that is what I did....Post what you figure out.....


----------



## ke5hde

Yup could very well be the room fan.
When do you hear the noise? At startup when it's still fairly quiet or when it's running?
The room rans in these things are pretty loud to begin with but it sounds like the cage may be rubbing on the guard.
Actually just replaced the fan in ours. It was making an obnoxious howling sound on the low speeds and finally had 
the scraping noise. 1 call to US Stoves and had the new fan in 4 days. Took about 15 mins. to get it out and back in.
Take note of the wire colors as the fan doesn't match the wires from the board.

Chris


----------



## jvbowers

I purchased the King Pellet about a week ago and I am having issues. Hopefully someone on here can help.I have read this thread completely and have already sealed the ash pan doors as well as adj. the feed rates.

The problem I am having is there seems to be alot of soot on the window.When I wake up in the morning the window is almost completely black. Also there are alot of unburned pellets in the burn chamber, not in the burn pot but everywhere else..Any help would be apreciated.

Thanks
Jason


----------



## ke5hde

As for the black glass,this will happen more if you run the stove on the lower heat settings. Just how it is. I also get unburnt pellets in the burn chamber and haven't found a way to fix it yet. Spent many hours starring at the stove trying to figure out how to stop it. May just have to live with it.   
Hope this helps a little. 

Chris


----------



## jvbowers

Thanks for the info Chris.

J


----------



## urkiddin

some times i think the unburnt pellet problem is due to the pellets.when i was burning Buyous(sp?) i had a lot of them too.with the Ligs it doesn't seem too bad now.i still get a few but nothing like before.


----------



## ke5hde

I've noticed it with every brand I have burned. The pellets come out of the feed chute and don't always make it in the pot.
They miss and just bounce off the edge Maybe just a design problem. Something I may look into when the heating season is over.
If I have to get out the mig welder and a small piece of steel to block just a little of the opening then I will.
Don't really like to waste pellets if I don't have to.

On a side note. We just picked up a ton of Barefoots and all I can say is HOLY CRAP
I actually had to turn the feed rate down to 3.75 on the high side and down to 1.25 on the low side and still get the same heat as 
I did with the Ligs. And these are so much cleaner. Looks like I'll have to stock up on them for next year.

Chris


----------



## urkiddin

ke5hde said:
			
		

> I've noticed it with every brand I have burned. The pellets come out of the feed chute and don't always make it in the pot.
> They miss and just bounce off the edge Maybe just a design problem. Something I may look into when the heating season is over.
> If I have to get out the mig welder and a small piece of steel to block just a little of the opening then I will.
> Don't really like to waste pellets if I don't have to.
> 
> On a side note. We just picked up a ton of Barefoots and all I can say is HOLY CRAP
> I actually had to turn the feed rate down to 3.75 on the high side and down to 1.25 on the low side and still get the same heat as
> I did with the Ligs. And these are so much cleaner. Looks like I'll have to stock up on them for next year.
> 
> Chris


 I had thought about welding some flat stock to the front and sides of the burnpot to increase the height.I might still do it.I'm thinking by increasing it by maybe 1"-1 1/2" would stop that.i haven't aseen any Barefoots around here but i've heard they a really good.Guess you have to go by whats available.


----------



## jvbowers

I love all of the info on this thread....After adjusting the rate and the draft a little I have gotten rid of the soot buildup on the glass, it appears to be burning alot cleaner. Also my unburnt pellet issue has stopped. i am not sure what I did but I just cleaned the ashes out and I have zero unburnt pellets.I am burning Propellet premium pellets and seem to get alot of heat from them. I would like to check around and try a few different pellets.Where did you purchase Barefoot pellets from, and what are you guys paying for a ton?

Thanks
J


----------



## jvbowers

Here are a couple pics of the stove.

J


----------



## smileyme

Brian_YZ said:
			
		

> Picked up  a 5510 the other day after much thought and debate, etc....
> Been reading this forum gathering information for the last few months to help me pick out the right stove.  But the more you learn, the more questions seem to arise.
> 
> 
> 5. I've seen references to hooking up a wall thermostat to control the pellet stove, but nothing in the manual.  I'm assuming somewhere behind a panel somewhere there is a hook up for one.  Has anyone added one and is it as simple as one would think?
> 
> Hopefully it works out as planned and I won't have to call the fire department upon start up.  Living in a rural area I'm sure the response time is long



New here, but have your answer.

Remove the side panel. On the control board, there are 2 spade connectors with a jumper block between them. In front of them is labeled "stat" or maybe "tstat". Remove the jumper. Connect your thermostat wires to the spade connectors. Replace the side panel. Done.

This is a great forum; has solved many issues for me on the 5510 I just bought from Tractor Supply for $999.00

Rick


----------



## urkiddin

urkiddin said:
			
		

> iceman_1227 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for your help,
> 
> I will seal the bottom doors tommorow. The back doors you all left alone?  What did you guys use to seal up the doors?
> 
> 
> 
> Funny, thing is my ignitor took a dive yesterday as well, i am manually lighting it. Called us stove and they are sending me a new one with no hassle. So far so good. I will let you guys know how all works out, once i find what to seal with. let me know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i used the stuff that i sealed my vent joints with .Rutland direct vent seal.i just gooped it on around the slide and smoothed it out with a finger.it's black so u hardly notice it.it remains soft so u can remove it if u want.
Click to expand...


 Just an update on Rutland direct vent sealent.the tube says it remains soft for easy removal for inspection.I kinked the hell out of the vent trying to get it apart for cleaning.I'll have to get new vent pipe now.The stuff is like cement when it cures.Guess i'll have to dig out the sawsall this spring.


----------



## ke5hde

jvbowers said:
			
		

> I love all of the info on this thread....After adjusting the rate and the draft a little I have gotten rid of the soot buildup on the glass, it appears to be burning alot cleaner. Also my unburnt pellet issue has stopped. i am not sure what I did but I just cleaned the ashes out and I have zero unburnt pellets.I am burning Propellet premium pellets and seem to get alot of heat from them. I would like to check around and try a few different pellets.Where did you purchase Barefoot pellets from, and what are you guys paying for a ton?
> 
> Thanks
> J



I got the pellets at JJ Feeds in Lafayette, just south of Syracuse NY. Got them at 269 a ton and since I'm only about 3 miles from them...no delivery $$$. Burn real nice and hot, not much ash either.

Chris


----------



## jvbowers

I bought a ton of the Propellets for $220 at the local mill no delivery fee as i loaded them in the back of the old ford.There doesnt seem to be alot of different pellet choices around me.Menards has there brand Oakies i believe but thats about it.

J


----------



## Brian_YZ

smileyme said:
			
		

> Brian_YZ said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picked up  a 5510 the other day after much thought and debate, etc....
> Been reading this forum gathering information for the last few months to help me pick out the right stove.  But the more you learn, the more questions seem to arise.
> 
> 
> 5. I've seen references to hooking up a wall thermostat to control the pellet stove, but nothing in the manual.  I'm assuming somewhere behind a panel somewhere there is a hook up for one.  Has anyone added one and is it as simple as one would think?
> 
> Hopefully it works out as planned and I won't have to call the fire department upon start up.  Living in a rural area I'm sure the response time is long
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New here, but have your answer.
> 
> Remove the side panel. On the control board, there are 2 spade connectors with a jumper block between them. In front of them is labeled "stat" or maybe "tstat". Remove the jumper. Connect your thermostat wires to the spade connectors. Replace the side panel. Done.
> 
> This is a great forum; has solved many issues for me on the 5510 I just bought from Tractor Supply for $999.00
> 
> Rick
Click to expand...


Thanks for the info.

One last question,  just getting around to getting it installed and vented.  I ran the stove through the initial test that the factory does and it passed.  Last night I did a "dry run" as described in the manual (no pellets loaded).  The fan came on, auger turned, igniter came on as described.  The manual states after about 20 minutes the stove will turn itself off as a safety precaution.  However, after about an hour the stove never shut down.  It continued to try to feed pellets, but the igniter only came on the first couple of minutes.  I'm a little hesitant to fire the thing up and trust that it will shut down in the future if there is a problem and I'm not home.
Just curious if others had the same issue?  I guess I'll just add a couple pounds of pellets and see if it shuts down when it runs out.


----------



## ke5hde

Mine was the same way. Just kept running, finally turned it off myself.
I can tell you that ours has run out once and it did turn itself off and showed an error on the panel.

Chris


----------



## urkiddin

When you get it going you can open the hopper door and keep it open.It should stop feeding pellets and go out after the pellets in the burn pot are burnt up.Just a quicker way to test it if you don't want to hang around and wait for the hopper to empty.Mine ran out once too and it shut down like it's suppose to.


----------



## scooby4ever

OK...I just replaced the igniter after running the stove since Nov 09..it looked just like the pic posted earlier in this forum..is this something that's going to become an every year thing?

  Also, I posted earlier about a scraping sound while the stove runs...after pulling all panels off the stove while it runs, I can't find anything....and it now appears it's not so much of a scraping sound, as a howling, or vibration type noise..???
 Does anyone else have this problem? and how did you remedy it?

  I've also had the door gasket on the hinge side fail.. I'll be replacing that during the next clean out.

  The door glass seems to stay cleaner, a little longer, if I run the stove on #2....and would be better the higher you run it, however on #2 it burns us out of the livingroom..hahahah...been pretty mild here in the NorthEast this winter...
 the good thing is I've only burned thru 1-1/2 tons of pellets so far...


----------



## ke5hde

The howling/whining sound is probably the room fan. Call US Stove and get a new one. Same problem we had. The noise was so bad that even the dogs would hide from it
Not really sure how long the ignitor will last, replaced ours too as you saw from the pics.
Wow only 1 1/2 tons, not bad. We're on our 3rd ton now up here in central NY.

Chris


----------



## Brian_YZ

Finally got the stove going.  
On first start up, about 10 minutes in I noticed a wood burning smell.  Shortly after I noticed the 45 degree joint had worked loose at one of the seams.  Shut the stove down and re-crimped the joint, RTV'd and taped for good measure (CO2 detector never went off).  After a few nights of burning on HR3 and everything else set at auto, I do not seem to have any problems.  The stove after about 1 hour will increase the temp on the main thermostat from 65 to about 71.  The rest of the house doesn't seem to be too cool from not getting heat from the registers.  I'll be happy if the stove will heat the whole house without using the heat pump, but especially the backup furnace.  But that is not why I bought it.

One last question.  Is it normal for the draft/exhaust fan to cycle during operation?  Once the room fan kicks on, I can hear the exhaust fan start up for about 1 second or two, then wind back down.  It's like every couple of seconds on/off.... on/off.  Even going outside you'll see smoke for a little while, then nothing.

The only pellets that are readily available in my area are OHP (Ozark Hardwood Products), and I'm not having any problems.  I've read mixed reviews, but for the price I'm happy.


----------



## urkiddin

yes it's normal for the draft fan to cycle.


----------



## Brian_YZ

Interesting evening last night....
Had the day off so I let the stove run almost all day while I worked out in the garage.  Since it was about 45 degrees out, I set the heat range down to 1.  I noticed when I came in the room with the stove later in the day the window was a little blacker ash covered than normal.  Before I went to sleep I shut the stove off.  I heard the motors quit running, so I went to bed.  About 10 minutes later I thought to myself "I smell smoke".  Then I had a mental argument with myself that everything was OK, normal smell.  When I got out of bed and turned on the lights, that is when I noticed the house was full of smoke (so much for smoke detectors).  Turns out the burn pot got clogged up with slightly unburned pellets and ash, and the pellets sitting at the top were smoldering.  I was alarmed when I opened the hopper lid to see smoke coming off of about 100 pounds of pellets, but that turned out to just be smoke permeating from the auger chute.  Lesson learned.... don't burn on low setting until I get the stove dialed in for that.


----------



## MCPO

My little Harman P-38 will burn dependably and without a hiccup on the lowest setting of #1 (40 hrs + on a bag ) but I wouldn`t trust my  PDVC on too low of a setting since the flame fluctuates high/low too much. I`d instead set it at a low setting that appears to maintain a decent flame on the low fluctuation end of the flame and then crank it up a notch for insurance.  Not a big a deal actually.  I like to think it`s the difference between a high quality stove and a more affordable hardware  store stove. 
Don`t get me wrong here, I`m not knocking your King 5510 , my Englander , or any other stove . I`m just reminding myself why there`s some differences and it`s no secret that those differences are apt to cost more.


----------



## urkiddin

Brian_YZ said:
			
		

> Interesting evening last night....
> Had the day off so I let the stove run almost all day while I worked out in the garage.  Since it was about 45 degrees out, I set the heat range down to 1.  I noticed when I came in the room with the stove later in the day the window was a little blacker ash covered than normal.  Before I went to sleep I shut the stove off.  I heard the motors quit running, so I went to bed.  About 10 minutes later I thought to myself "I smell smoke".  Then I had a mental argument with myself that everything was OK, normal smell.  When I got out of bed and turned on the lights, that is when I noticed the house was full of smoke (so much for smoke detectors).  Turns out the burn pot got clogged up with slightly unburned pellets and ash, and the pellets sitting at the top were smoldering.  I was alarmed when I opened the hopper lid to see smoke coming off of about 100 pounds of pellets, but that turned out to just be smoke permeating from the auger chute.  Lesson learned.... don't burn on low setting until I get the stove dialed in for that.



I had basically thre same problem when i first got my stove.I had hit the off button and left the house.When i came home it was full of smoke too.I played around to see if i could figure out why.What i noticed was after you push the off button it continued to drop a few pellets into the pot which started to burn.Being set at low it seems the the draft fan would time out before they were completely burned out.What i do now if i want to shut it down is open the hopper door and leave it open which stops the pellets and then hit the off button after a few minutes.I haven't had a problem since.


----------



## scperk

well, heating season is upon us again, i am scott, proud new owner of the 5510, this forum is great and all of you that have shared the info that has helped alot of us, i thank you. if the world was more like this forum, it would be a nicer place...........anyway, i have a question about pellets, i am currently using somerset premium hardwood pellets, and i have heard that some prefer softwood and some prefer a softwood hardwood mix. just wondering what everybody thinks. also wondering how the 5510s are doing after a year


----------



## scperk

i started my changes and improvements based on info from everyone, i have designed a burnpot chute that not only funnels the stray hopping pellets, but also helps to seal the burnpot like ke5hde was talking about and it just sits in place without any mod.....check it out, hope you like


----------



## y2k400ex

I'd like to see close up pics of the burn pot outside the heater. Looks like something I have been thinking about. Also... have you considered altering the box the burn pot sits in? I was thinking of grinding off about in inch down and an inch in from the outside edge, (on both sides) and creating a 45 degree angle for the ash to slide down. In my stove the ash seems to collect on the top of the box the burn pot sits on, untill it starts falling back into the burn pot.


----------



## Jabbers

Hello to all, I too have a king 5510 i bought 2 years ago. The igniter for me only last 2.5 tons of pellets. I just use the fire starters tsc has (the little squares) tired of buying igniters. I put a pop can between the front of the burn pot and the glass it just fits right in there, this keeps 99% of my pellets in the burn pot, i turn the can around as holes burn through.  I also run my stove on 1 and put the blower at 9 which to me puts good heat but i have some ash and i have to shut it down every 18 hrs for cleaning.


----------



## urkiddin

Jabbers said:
			
		

> Hello to all, I too have a king 5510 i bought 2 years ago. The igniter for me only last 2.5 tons of pellets. I just use the fire starters tsc has (the little squares) tired of buying igniters. I put a pop can between the front of the burn pot and the glass it just fits right in there, this keeps 99% of my pellets in the burn pot, i turn the can around as holes burn through.  I also run my stove on 1 and put the blower at 9 which to me puts good heat but i have some ash and i have to shut it down every 18 hrs for cleaning.



i just went thru my 3rd igniter.they seem to last about 2-3 months and go poof.just went to HD for starter cubes.i could understand it if i was starting it a lot but i only turn it off once a week to clean it.i guess according to USSC it's the luck of the draw.


----------



## Brian_YZ

I altered the burnpot too.  Added pieces are about an inch wide.  The added pieces seem to help flare out the flame and direct ash to the bottom where it belongs and help direct pellets back into the pot.  The only thing I've noticed is the added piece at the front does direct the flame more towards the glass and does trap some ash on the door ledge.  I think it would help to add a small vertical piece off of the angled piece on the front to solve that issue.














Stove works great.  Went though one igniter after about 2 tons.  I just used pellets wrapped in tissue paper to start the flame.  Not as easy to start a fire as one would think.  Great stove for the money.


----------



## juliegirl

Hi Chris my name is Chris too and i have a 5510 King Pellet stove and i'm have some problems like you.  First of all my ashes are all clumpin up in the burn pot so i drilled the holes in the burn pot bigger and that helped a little bit . And my next problem is i dont know how to slow the pellet feed rate down when i turn my heat range on 5 the burn pot over flows so i did what you said to do i tightened the screws to the 2 slide doors and then i caulked the 2 slide doors so they won't open the ones that you pull the handle to let the ashes drop into the pan and i would like to know how to get more heat out of the stove. We also have a big old house and it just seems like we are not getting enough heat and i also would like to know how to turn the heat temp up by the buttons because in the owners manual it doesn't tell how to do any of this so if you could please give me some information on how to change a few of these problems or fix all of them i would greatly be in your debt [ My e-mail is ChrisHuff80@yahoo.com and please send the same message to jkblove614@yahoo.com ] Thank you for your time and help


----------



## scperk

here are some pics of burnpot mod which i suggest works good and increases air flow so i can run on one lower draft setting and can go a week and a half to two weeks in between cleanings ( depending on what heat settings i am using ) and also stopped the pile of pellets that hop out of the burnpot and dont get burned


----------



## scperk

notice the extra piece that fits in the groove of the front of the pot.... allof the welds are on the outside so it fits the burnpot tight. i actually held it on the pot when i welded it so it was a perfect fit. i bought a 1 inch piece of stock from lowes the same thickness as the burn pot.... three feet long i think, based on performance, i might make a new one decreasing the angled top enough to clear the metal on the back wall where the pot holder bolts on which will also decrease the amount of ash that collects on it....... enjoy and if you got questions, go ahead


----------



## urkiddin

one would think that with all the complaints about pellets falling out of the burn pot USSC would make a modification to it or offer a aftermarket part.


----------



## mrtaters

I just picked up the 5510 for $699 at my local Tractor Supply.  Still have 1 left as they are clearancing them out.  Nice stove but having burn pot overflow issues on heat setting 2 and the draft fan on max.  I have the auger feed rate turned all the way down to 0.65 (yes that low!!) and I still get overflow.  Have done everyuthing as stated in this forum i.e. chcked all seals, made sure clean out doors were tight.  Did a complete clean out including exhaust pipes and sealed any and all gaps with hi-temp rtv silicone.  Sealed the ash drawer slides and still it seems to just keep dumping pellets into the pot and overflows.  Have external air hooked up and blows like a blow torch.  Anybody have experience with a bad control board?  I'm starting to think its not controlling the auger the way it should.  Any other ideas?  Thanks in advance!


----------



## Whallila

Re the 5510 feed rate.  Just wanted to make sure you knew there are 2 different feed rate settings on the 5510.  Had the same problem with pellet spillage, when I called US Stove they only told me about one of them. I was able to  get  a troubleshooting guide with all settings and codes. (They quit selling it due to a liability settlement.) It turns out there is a high and low fuel rate. One is for setting 5 and one is for setting 1. The computer averages out feed rates for everything in between.  I put my draft damper 2 setting higher than my heat setting then cut both settings back and raised them a half a pound at a time till it was feed properly. 
Mine was getting so full that it would smolder and stink up the house for a while everytime I shut it down. I luv it now. Also, when you get frustrated cause glass soots up, just put an old newpaper on floor in front of door , open it and wipe it off with a dry paper towel. You can do this with  out shutting off stove . Mess falls on newspaper and your back in business


----------



## mrtaters

No, I only know about the low feed rate.  i.e. factory set at 1.75.   How do I change the high fuel rate?  Also, any chance of getting a copy of the manual?
Thanks much for the reply.


----------



## mrtaters

I dug around on here and found the info on changing the settings.  Mine is definitely way too high.  Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!


----------



## scperk

mrtaters said:
			
		

> I dug around on here and found the info on changing the settings.  Mine is definitely way too high.  Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!


how high was your high setting


----------



## scperk

mrtaters said:
			
		

> No, I only know about the low feed rate.  i.e. factory set at 1.75.   How do I change the high fuel rate?  Also, any chance of getting a copy of the manual?
> Thanks much for the reply.


you can download a copy on usstove.com but this forum says tons more but i guess it has a few good things in it......good luck


----------



## Whallila

RE: fuel rates on 5510. 
I can't post the users guide with  settings codes due to file size
It has the C menu codes in it with all settings. I use 1.55 and 4.55


15. Adjusting Operational Constants
To adjust the operation constants, press and hold the MODE and AUGER DELAY
buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds. The display will show "C- 1". Use the HEAT
RANGE UP or HEAT RANGE DOWN buttons to change the constant number (see the
list of values below). When the desired constant is displayed, press the ON button to
toggle between viewing and editing the value. While editing a parameter, use the AUX
UP and AUX DOWN buttons to adjust the value to the desired point, then press ON
again to return to the constant number list. Press the OFF button to exit the adjust
operational constants mode.
ô€‚ƒ C- 1 - Reset to defaults (hold Mode and Auger Delay buttons for 3 seconds to
reset all to defaults)
ô€‚ƒ C- 2 - Fuel Lbs Per Hour HR 1 (0-5.0) - This is the fuel rate in pounds per hour
for a heat range setting of 1. The default is 1.75lbs.
ô€‚ƒ C- 3 - Fuel Lbs Per Hour HR 9 (0-5.0) - This is the fuel rate in pounds per hour
for a heat range setting of 5. The default is 4.5lbs. The fuel rates used between
settings 1 and 5 are linearly interpolated between these two settings.
ô€‚ƒ C- 4 - Draft Fan Level HR 1 (0-500) - This is the Draft fan output level for a draft
fan setting of 1. The default is 100/500.
ô€‚ƒ C- 5 - Draft Fan Level HR 9 (0-500) - This is the Draft fan output level for a draft
fan setting of 9. The default is 300/500. See next parameter for disbursement.


----------



## Don2222

Gio said:
			
		

> How`s this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.pbase.com/image/119799286.jpg
> http://www.pbase.com/image/119799286.jpg



Hi Gio

I am using Firefox browser and I do not see your pic?
I do not see your pic in IE browser either??


----------



## urkiddin

I just gave my stove a cleaning(stove and vent).wheni re-started it the temp at the front where i have a magnetic thermometer stuck went up to 400 deg.but the room fan never came on.the stove was starting to crakel so i hit the off button.the rm fan came on then.i hit the on button and the fan shut off again.I let it cool down and relit it(have to use a starter as the igniter is burnt out)and it seems to work fine now.i would think that with a temp of 400 the rm fan should have come on.anyone else ever have this problem if it is a problem.


----------



## SmokeyTheBear

urkiddin said:
			
		

> I just gave my stove a cleaning(stove and vent).wheni re-started it the temp at the front where i have a magnetic thermometer stuck went up to 400 deg.but the room fan never came on.the stove was starting to crakel so i hit the off button.the rm fan came on then.i hit the on button and the fan shut off again.I let it cool down and relit it(have to use a starter as the igniter is burnt out)and it seems to work fine now.i would think that with a temp of 400 the rm fan should have come on.anyone else ever have this problem if it is a problem.



The place and temperature that counts is at the location the proof of fire sensor is and the temperature that the sensor has set for turning on.

This is rarely at the front of a stove, frequently it is around the output of the combustion fan.  There are very large temperature differences inside the stoves shell.


----------



## kmeckes

I love reading the comments / reviews.............Here is what I have learned, and think about the stove............Maybe it will help somebody out.

1. Keep stove pipe venting to a minimal, straight out thru wall is best if possible....I have a 2 foot section on rear of stove that goes thru wall,  and that is it...
2. Pellets make a huge difference......I have access to pellets that burn for a week straight without cleaning stove, but they do not output any heat...........I buy Lignetics from Tractor Supply and the heat output  is amazing but I need to clean burnpot every 3-5 days..
3. I turned up the setting on the Draft Fan to around 400, the more it runs, the less the burnpot fills up.....Its true it sucks out some extra heat, but I live with that....ALso, it sends a lot more ash outside and reuires less cleaning of stove.........
4. The pellet feed rate needs to be decreased from factory settings, depending on your pellet brand......1.4 is a really good starting point, and gets you going...This will allow the stove to run on Heat Range 1,2,3 without clogging the burnpot.............Heat Range 4 and 5, the burnpot clogs up every 2-3 days, that is my best I could achieve with good pellets......
5. Other than normal scraping/cleaning of the burnpot, every few weeks I put it in the kitchen sink with hot water and dish soap......After soaking for 20 minutes, all the junk that will not scrape off literally falls off on its own.........A brillo pad makes it look even better !!
6. My draft/exhaust fan is always making random noises, changes by the day..........Has anybody ever taken one apart and cleaned or lubricated ???? I would love to know if anybody tried this......Please repsond if you have.......
7. If you have an original motherboard/control board, get it replaced with current board....DO not know the part number, but this eliminated so many of my stupid problems.....Ignitor works better, stove starts better, etc.........The original boards were terrible........
8. Very important.....When shutting down the stove for cleaning, open the top lid for 3-4 minutes before pushing the off button..........This stops the pellet flow, and burns most of the junk out of the burnpot......This should be done with software on the control board, but it does not work that well..........
9. Been using stove 1.5 seasons so far.............Replaced 3 ignitors, repalced motherboard, replaced door seal becasue door is not square to the front of stove, lid on top does not fit properly and needs to be jiggled to close, replaced room fan/blower, exhaust blower/fan always makes terrible noise................The money I thought I would save has been spent on my time fixing/cleaning/improving stove...............Yes, cleaning a pellet stove every 3-4 days sure beats tending a wood/coal stove every 12 hours, and is much cleaner, but I would have to admit this pellet stove is not saving much money, if you factor in the trouble............
10. I am on track to burn 6 tons of pellets this year...........Heating approximately 1300 sq feet.....Paying $225 a ton for Lignetics at Tractor Supply.....This means hauling a ton of pellets a month, if you have a full size pickup........If you do not have a full size truck, be prepared to haul pellets more often....I live in NE Pennsylvania...
11. If thinking about buying this stove, do not place it within 15-20 feet of kitchen/living room or anywhere you watch tv or hang out.......The noise is very annoying when the stove is functioning great, but when the blower issues start it is almost unbearable...........I have mine in an office that is centrally located, and we only use as a pass thru room for storage......Last year we had it in our kitchen, and that was horrible...........Even when I shut the stove down to clean, it is like I have "super-hearing", because I can hear so many other noises that I forgot were inside/outside my house......
12. I clean mine with a standard shop vac, once a week, takes about 5-10 minutes...........After a good cleanout the shop vac needs to be disassembled and cleaned itself...........I do not mind this part, but it is definitley an extra chore and somewhat messy cleaning pellet ash out of a shop-vac.....I clean shop vac outside with a garden hose, then I lay the shop vac in front of my coal stove in garage overnite  to dry out......Midway thru the week, I shut pellet stove down and scrape out the burnpot and clean the glass, takes about 2-3 minutes for this minimal cleaning............
13. Stove is OK, and heats well...........No regrets on buying it due to the fact that I feel better not using oil from the Middle East !!   But on the downside, it can be a lot of work when you factor in troubleshooting/learning/cleaning/etc......I am a stay at home Dad, and I have the time to maintain it but if I was a normal working guy, it would drive me crazy...The hours I have spent dealing with this stove is overwhelming, could not imagine a working dad with a family handling it.....You definitely get what you pay for, a cheap stove is a cheap stove...........$3000 - $4000 for a high end stove is tough for most people to afford though, wish the government would have chipped in more with the tax credits for purchasing !
14. I am really not sure about the guys adding height to their burnpot, I have never found an unburnt pellet in my stove after decreasing my pellet feed rate.......I must be one of the lucky ones !! My stove must be one of the few that does not bounce pellets....If I had that problem I would have scrapped it by now....Even when the burnpot gets clogged near the top after 4-5 days, the pellets still do not bounce out, I wish I could say why but I can't.......
15. Well, this is just my thoughts and what works for me.......If anybody has thoughts on cleaning/lubricating exhaust blower please let me know...If anybody has questions, I would be glad to answer, with my thoughts.........Thanks Kenny


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## meatis20b

Im gonna purchase a 5510 this week and I jsut wanted to find out if its a smart idea to hook the exhaust up to my old chimeny pipe since it is very accesable to where the stove is gonna be places.  Any thoughts please trow them at me.


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## kmeckes

If you have no other choice, vent it into chimney. The problem is that the exhaust blower will have a hard time pushing the  ash uphill into a chimney. From the minute that the stove begins to burn, ash will start accumulating in the pipe, and also where pipe enters the chimney at adapter . As the pipe that goes into the chimney starts to block up, that means more ash will be leftover inside the stove. As it loses its ability to breathe, that means the burn pot will clog. WHen the burn pot clogs, not only do you waste pellets, but stove will not put out as much heat. I know the specs on the stove say that you can do a couple bends with the exhaust pipe, but if you do, you should definitely remove and clean monthly. Cleaning anything wood pellet ash related is very messy and dirty. 
If you have the option of running a straight 2 or 3 foot length of pipe thru wall, do it.. I have a 2 foot length of pipe going straight thru wall to outside of house, using a special collar . Nothing more !! WHat this does is makes almost all the ash go outside. I have no pipe connections to clean out, and I feel much safer knowing there is not ash accumulating in an elbow that I can not see inside. Every few weeks, I will stick a small stick in the exhaust pipe and scrape out the ash from the outside of the house. 
I fought with this stove for an entire season, because I was venting into a chimney. It was nothing but a headache....The pellets wouldnt burn, burn pot would clog, my exhaust pipe would block. I talked to a pellet stove installer from our area, and he told me to go with the 2 foot pipe thru the wall solution.  Of course this can only be done if mounting on an outside wall, and you need to be above ground level. But if it works, do it...
After I switched over from my chimney to the "thru the wall" solution, it was amazing how much easier it became to take care of....
Also, its not the greatest stove. If you can afford a better stove like a Harman, get a Harman or other quality name. But if you want a cheap stove to play with, its pretty good.


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## imacman

meatis20b said:
			
		

> Im gonna purchase a 5510 this week and I jsut wanted to find out if its a smart idea to hook the exhaust up to my old chimeny pipe since it is very accesable to where the stove is gonna be places.  Any thoughts please trow them at me.



You need to stop posting the same/similar questions on multiple threads.....I responded to you about this in another thread, as have others.

Post the question(s) in 1 thread of your own, and get all the responses there.


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## Dewster

Im not sure i did this right but here goes! I bought a used king pellet stove 5510 model and i read this forum and tried different settings and am still haveing problams with it, soi have my stove set on hr 2 and draft fan 4 and my low range pellet feed is set to 1.45 and high is 3.5. My blower speed low is 100 and high is 335. Now my question is my flame goes from high to low and so low its not even above the burn pot is that fine or what should i do? It seems to keep my room its in at like 77 and the rest of home around 70 degrees! So heats great so far!! Its only been running for 2hrs so waiting to see how the ash build up is going to be any other settings so far ive had to clean the burn pot from ash every 12 hrs or less, not good. Any ideas to what i should set it at or do? I live in new york state and my house size i heat is like 1200 sq foot and very old


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## scperk

Dewster said:


> Im not sure i did this right but here goes! I bought a used king pellet stove 5510 model and i read this forum and tried different settings and am still haveing problams with it, soi have my stove set on hr 2 and draft fan 4 and my low range pellet feed is set to 1.45 and high is 3.5. My blower speed low is 100 and high is 335. Now my question is my flame goes from high to low and so low its not even above the burn pot is that fine or what should i do? It seems to keep my room its in at like 77 and the rest of home around 70 degrees! So heats great so far!! Its only been running for 2hrs so waiting to see how the ash build up is going to be any other settings so far ive had to clean the burn pot from ash every 12 hrs or less, not good. Any ideas to what i should set it at or do? I live in new york state and my house size i heat is like 1200 sq foot and very old


turn your draft down to 3,if it still does it try 2...you might have to turn your feed up a little, i use 1.60 low and 4.00 high but i fine tune for different pellets. anyway the rule of thumb for draft is same as heat range or one higher depends on pellets


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## hoagyupnorth

We just got a used 5510 pellet stove and are having some issues with it and was wondering if anyone could help.  So first i will just ask 1 question.  The dash on the heat range display never stops blinking.  The book says that th stove is in the normal run mode and is ramping from the current heat range setting to the target heat range settings.  Once the ramp is complete the dash will stop flashing.  But ours never stops flashing  Can anyone suggest anything?


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## aenyart

My husband and I have just purchased the 5510 model a few weeks ago.  This thread has been helping immensely.  We did have a question on the control panel.  In this thread it says what C-1 to C-5 are for, which is great.  What are the rest of them?  What about C-6 through C-21??  The original manual sucks.   If anyone knows it would be great to know what other settings we could change.


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## kmills

I have been  messing with mine none stop for about 18 hours (cleaning once already) and its been nothing but a headache, I have the feed turned down all the way to .65 and the draft fan running wide open with a fan shooting air into the intake tube and its still over flowing the burn pot on level 4!


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